RV-Archive.digest.vol-jh
September 15, 2000 - September 21, 2000
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Lutes" <rlutes(at)owc.net> |
Subject: | Re: GNS430 switches & nav coupler. |
Hi Kurt,
One of the advantages of the GNS 430 is that there are no external switches
or lights required on the panel, which simplifies the installation. Still
lots of wires, but fewer than with an external switching unit. Answers to
your questions:
1. Switching the CDI source between Nav and GPS for the is done internally
in the GNS 430 via the "CDI" key on the bezel. There is also a discrete
input if you want to use a remote switch.
2. A Nav / Glideslope coupler is needed. (There are four BNC connectors on
the back of the 430: Comm, GPS, Nav, and Glideslope).
You might consider getting a copy of the installation manual. Lots of
information.
Hope that helps. Nice radio. Great company.
Rick Lutes
RV-4, Hampshire, IL
---- Original Message -----
From: <KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM>
> For those who have installed a GNS430 in their panel.....I am planning on
> using a 14V GNS430 as my sole nav/gs source (output to a CDI)....my two
> questions are:
>
> 1. Is a seperate unit needed to change the CDI between NAV and GPS?
>
> 2. Do I need to purchase a Single Nav/Glideslope coupler if I am
planning
> on using only one nav ant as a nav and GS ant? Or does the unit have one
> plug in the back for nav and GS?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kurt, OKC, OK
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
Subject: | GNS430 Owners... |
Kurt, the gns-430 has two sets of outputs for the cdi. One is constantly fed
from the nav, the other is selectable between the nav and gps via the cdi
button on the radio face. The garmin will directly drive the cdi. There is
no need for a relay switching unit unless the cdi will be used for any other
radio, or for a combination cdi/nav such as the narco nav-122d gps. My setup
uses the narco nav-122 so I used the ameriking ak-950 21 pole relay with a
NAT switch. After seeing the prices on stand alone cdi's the narco looked
very reasonable.........
The garmin has separate inputs for the g\s and nav antennae. E-mail me
if
you want the install manual. In pdf format. (its not small, 80 pages or so).
Steven DiNieri
capsteve(at)adelphia.net
For those who have installed a GNS430 in their panel.....I am planning on
using a 14V GNS430 as my sole nav/gs source (output to a CDI)....my two
questions are:
1. Is a seperate unit needed to change the CDI between NAV and GPS?
2. Do I need to purchase a Single Nav/Glideslope coupler if I am planning
on using only one nav ant as a nav and GS ant? Or does the unit have one
plug in the back for nav and GS?
Thanks,
Kurt, OKC, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Sensenich 13 inch spinner cut out template |
09/15/2000 10:16:09 AM
Be careful using this diagram. I used it two years ago. Downloaded it from
the Sensenich site and tried to make the templates work. Scaling seems to
get lost in the data formatting somewhere. Either in the orginal data
conversion, application package, storage or retreival.....at any rate, by
the time I got it on paper the cut-outs were stretched to the point that
had to use a moulding curve pin guage to reestablish the correct cutouts.
Same is true for the Spruce instrument cut-outs in their catalog. No where
near the correct size...
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com@matronics.com on 09/14/2000 12:22:46 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Sensenich 13 inch spinner cut out template
Listers,
Sensenich has just put out a template for 13 inch spinners. You can reach
this
at:
http://www.sensenich.com/new/72fmcut.htm
This good for all RV-8(A)s that use the Van's 13 inch stock spinner with a
72FM
series prop. If you don't think you need this then you need to read the
page
and a half of install instructions that come with the spinner. There is
more
verbiage about installing the spinner than the installing the entire cowl!
Enjoy,
- Jim
RV-8A (FWF)
O-360 Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
Subject: | Experimental Aircraft and AD's |
I agree--pull the plate off the engine and it's no longer certificated and
no rules apply---except dead is dead plate or not.
Greg Tanner
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2000 9:40 AM
Subject: RV-List: Experimental Aircraft and AD's
Yes, I agree that a Continental or Lycoming on an experimental aircraft IS
subject to AD's except when that engine is no longer a certified unit. BUT
even tho my engine is a Lycoming O-320 D1A and is NOT certified I always
comply even tho it is not legally required. WHY? Because I think flying is a
lot of fun but not enough fun to get killed over!
I had a long discussion on this point with the FSDO folks from the MKE
office and on this point I feel strongly that for your own sake, and the
sake of others that you may take up with you, that compliance only makes
sense, legally required or not.
FWIW RV6A Flying
Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Emergency Airworthiness Directive |
I was told that the only engines affected by the AD are those that use
the big "two-in-one" mag.
If you have two conventional mag pads on your engine, you are ok.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
========================
Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
>
>
> List: I called Lycoming and the 0-360-A1A is not affected by this recall.
> Most 0360's unless they were a few supper charged units are ok
> Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Sensenich 13 inch spinner cut out template |
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote:
>
>
> >Be careful using this diagram. I used it two years ago. Downloaded it from
> >the Sensenich site and tried to make the templates work. Scaling seems to
> >get lost in the data formatting somewhere. Either in the orginal data
>
> Interesting. I actually surfed the site last week and could not find a
> template. I contacted the Sensenich engineering staff and they posted this
> pattern out to the site the next day. It's also pretty easy to make sure that
> the image was not rescaled during the printing process by checking the grid with
> a ruler. I think it was on a half inch grid and my copy printed out on a laser
> was right on the money.
>
> I'm mounting my prop this weekend so I will report on rather the current spinner
> image was on target or just sent me off in the weeds.
The template for the 70CM prop on my RV-6 was very accurate. I started
out by cutting way inside the lines to avoid being mislead by a faulty
template, and ended up with cuts that were exactly per the template. The
most important point was to get the cuts exactly 180 degrees from each
other. You can see some photos here:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/finish7.html
It is indeed a good idea to double check the scaling (vertical and
horizontal) with a ruler.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Emergency Airworthiness Directive |
Hey Bill,
According to the EAA and the FAA, as soon as any appliance is placed on an
experimental aircraft, it looses it's CofA. AD's do not apply to experimental
aircraft or any parts attached thereto. Now it might be dumb not to follow the
suggested repair.
Bruce
Glasair III
Bill Noel wrote:
>
> You are most DEFINATELY subject to that AD if that engine is on your plane!
> Why do you think the FAA has less test hours when you use a CERTIFICATED
> engine in an experimental aircraft.You may have an experimental aircraft,
> but you still have a CERTIFICATED engine. AD's apply to all certificated
> products. You may get by with head in the sand logic until an accident when
> the insurance will not pay since your aircraft was not airworthy meeting
> type design and compliance with applicable FAR's ( AD's are extensions of
> part 39). You may also face violation. Bill Noel A&P,IA - Chief Inspector,
> volunteer FAA counselor Dallas pain in the ass region.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <JNice51355(at)AOL.COM>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2000 8:38 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Emergency Airworthiness Directive
>
> >
> > In a message dated 09/12/2000 7:47:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> > cretsinger(at)arlington.net writes:
> >
> > << I have an O-320 H2AD 160 hp engine with Sensenich metal prop. >>
> > NOTICE
> > Today I received an Emergency Airworthiness Directive 2000-18-53. It
> > included a glut of Lycoming engines.(certain 0320, 0360, I0360, etc. etc.
> > etc. Of particular interest to me was not only the fact that I fly a
> > Cherokee with an 0320E2A which is NOT on the list, but did notice the
> > 0320H2AD which some RVers are using, amongst others. Although we are not
> > subject to AD's, this one has to do with the oil filter converter plate
> > gaskets(part # LW-13388) extruding from the seat of the oil filter
> converter
> > plate(LW-13904). The protruding or swelling of the gasket allows oil to
> leak
> > from between the plate and the accessory housing, and if not corrected,
> could
> > result in complete loss of engine oil and subsequent seizing of the engine
> > and possible fire.
> > Please check this address: http://av-info.faa.gov
> > I'd hate to see this slip past someone.
> > Jim Nice
> > WA State
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Emergency Airworthiness Directive |
--- Doug Weiler wrote:
>
>
> Folks:
>
> From what I read in the AD, this generally applies to those Lycoming
> models
> with the D4LN-3000 impulse coupling dual magnetos (dual mags with one
> drive).
If it helps, I wrote Aerosport the morning I saw this on Avweb, asked
if it would affect my O360A2A. Sue wrote back saying it would not
affect it since they use new Slick magnetos (can't remember the other
brand).
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
Listers,
There was a thread earilier this week on filler primers, specifically Poly
Fiber UV Smooth Prime, and PPG K36 and K38. The discussion had to do with UV
protection, whether it was worth worrying about, and how well Smooth Prime
works compared to K36/K38. Several Listers had used K36 with excellent
results, but no one had used K38. Following is a snipet from the PPG web
site regarding K38...
"K38 High Build Primer Surfacer- Now available ! This high build version of
K36 offers exceptionable filling properties. The primer when mixed (4-1)
with K201 hardner offers a very high build product in today's 2K primer
market. If your need of a very productive, high build product this acrylic
urethane product would be a great choice."
Since I'm using PPG products exclusively for all painting (staying within a
product family!) I have incentive to use K36/38 instead of the Smooth Prime
that I had used for some of my early fiberglass work (rear seatback, first
coat on emp fairing, etc.). Therefore I bought a gallon of K38 (newer
product, higher build qualities) and hardener and shot my upper cowl, emp
fairing, and spinner.
Results:
-K38 sprays on better than UV Smooth Prime, it's easier to get an even coat.
Even though it is thicker than paint when you're stirring it, it still
sprays on nice and evenly. It does NOT build as quickly as Smooth Prime
however.
-Smooth Prime is thicker than K38 so needs to be thinned with water for
spraying. Because water takes longer to evaporate than the solvent thinners
in K38 it makes the whole multiple-coat shooting process take much longer.
While waiting for Smooth Prime to dry between coats your gun can clog up.
-K38 sands as good as Smooth Prime, which to say it sands very easily. So
easy that sometimes you wonder how durable it is. The paint must sort of
"glue" everything together.
-For the first coat of the inside of a fiberglass part, where you are
coating the weave, rolling on Smooth Prime still fills much better of
course. I suppose you could roll on K38, maybe I'll try it since I still
have some small disposable rollers around.
Bottom line: I'm using K38 for all fiberglass priming, though I would feel
better if it had UV protection.
Hope that helps someone,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, cowling & priming
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
ps. I've put some pics of pinholes after shooting K38 on my web site at
www.rv-8.com/pgPainting.htm at the bottom of the page.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Filler over primer? |
Fiberglass gurus (or those with experience filling pinholes):
I just shot my first coat of high-build primer on the outside of my cowling
top half. Man, tons of pinholes showed up that I literally could not see
before shooting. Seems like I have two choices: 1) keep shooting additional
filler/primer, sanding between coats, to eventually fill them up, or 2) go
back and spread some epoxy/micro (Poly Fil) into them with a credit card.
I just put some pics on my web site showing the extent of the holes at
www.rv-8.com/pgPainting.htm
My question is: has anyone put filler back over primer, and does it adhere
ok?
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, N558RL, in pinhole prison presently
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
Subject: | Re: Sensenich 13 inch spinner cut out template |
>The template for the 70CM prop on my RV-6 was very accurate. I started
>out by cutting way inside the lines to avoid being mislead by a faulty
>template, and ended up with cuts that were exactly per the template. The
>most important point was to get the cuts exactly 180 degrees from each
>other. You can see some photos here:
>
>http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/finish7.html
>
>It is indeed a good idea to double check the scaling (vertical and
>horizontal) with a ruler.
Actually it was surfing your site that helped point me to Sensenich for a
template in the first place.
The other kudo I have for you is making me aware that it was important at this
stage of my kit to make one all encompassing list of stuff left todo. I found
that I was spending a lot of time drifting from one small project to another and
pretty much not finishing anything at all. Now that I have that magic list of
forty things left todo, I can actually see the items being scratched off and
feel that I may actually get to fly this year.
Many thanks Sam,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A (FWF)
O-360 carb Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Emergency Airworthiness Directive |
09/15/2000 10:45:53 AM
the post reads......."Although we are not
subject to AD's........... Can Das Fed please state the official word on
AD's. Even thou we are experimentals(airplanes) , if our engine data plate
says anything other than experimental we are subject to the AD's ? This is
one reason I got 20 hours fly-off......I had a NON-experimental engine &
Sensenich propeller....
JNice51355(at)AOL.COM@matronics.com on 09/14/2000 09:38:41 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to
JNice51355(at)AOL.COM
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Emergency Airworthiness Directive
In a message dated 09/12/2000 7:47:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
cretsinger(at)arlington.net writes:
<< I have an O-320 H2AD 160 hp engine with Sensenich metal prop. >>
NOTICE
Today I received an Emergency Airworthiness Directive 2000-18-53. It
included a glut of Lycoming engines.(certain 0320, 0360, I0360, etc. etc.
etc. Of particular interest to me was not only the fact that I fly a
Cherokee with an 0320E2A which is NOT on the list, but did notice the
0320H2AD which some RVers are using, amongst others. Although we are not
subject to AD's, this one has to do with the oil filter converter plate
gaskets(part # LW-13388) extruding from the seat of the oil filter
converter
plate(LW-13904). The protruding or swelling of the gasket allows oil to
leak
from between the plate and the accessory housing, and if not corrected,
could
result in complete loss of engine oil and subsequent seizing of the engine
and possible fire.
Please check this address: http://av-info.faa.gov
I'd hate to see this slip past someone.
Jim Nice
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
Subject: | Re: experimental battery box |
The FAA Inspector that signed off on my aircraft noted that the sealed
batteries (RG-recombinant gas) don't need to have a box and if in a box,
it does not need to vented.
More crossed signals?
Boyd
Concorde 35-AXC
>
>
> Apparently battery boxes are supposed to be vented. One vent into the box and
one
> out, and to outside the aircraft. Didn't know that until the FAA inspector
> commented on the fact that I don't have a battery box.
>
> Finn
>
> $
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
Subject: | Rocky Mountain hardware? |
After considerable research and pondering, I've decided to get a
uEncoder. I like how it replaces the VSI and eliminates the need for an
external encoder. Very neat presentation of density altitude, too.
My question regards the uMonitor. To whit: Do I want/need one? I've
been planning on a full set of Electronics International gauges and I'm
wondering if I can save a little money and retain the same functionality
with the uMonitor? Can anyone with experience of both setups (even if
not in RVs) compare & contrast them for me?
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 N118KB (reserved)
assorted endless cockpit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
"John"
Subject: | Re: Experimental Aircraft and AD's |
A metal Data Plate of some kind is required.
Certification or non-certified can still have the factory data plate.
AD compliance is only required when used by a certified airplane.
ADs cannot be ignored when the plane is certified.
You have the option with an experimental.
Common sense many times would make it a good idea to comply but even then
you can make your own alternate compliance to the AD
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com>
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2000 11:48 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Experimental Aircraft and AD's
>
> I agree--pull the plate off the engine and it's no longer certificated and
> no rules apply---except dead is dead plate or not.
>
> Greg Tanner
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John
> Sent: Friday, September 15, 2000 9:40 AM
> To: rv-List(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Experimental Aircraft and AD's
>
>
> Yes, I agree that a Continental or Lycoming on an experimental aircraft IS
> subject to AD's except when that engine is no longer a certified unit. BUT
> even tho my engine is a Lycoming O-320 D1A and is NOT certified I always
> comply even tho it is not legally required. WHY? Because I think flying is
a
> lot of fun but not enough fun to get killed over!
>
> I had a long discussion on this point with the FSDO folks from the MKE
> office and on this point I feel strongly that for your own sake, and the
> sake of others that you may take up with you, that compliance only makes
> sense, legally required or not.
>
> FWIW RV6A Flying
> Salida, CO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net> |
Anybody know why we are not supposed to use perfumed talc when installing
tubes into tires ?
Is it because alcohol is used in perfumes ?
I have tried all over to find the non-perfumed type....no luck..
Matter of fact, I know I used "old spice" talc to install tubes in the past,
without any bad after effects......
A.T.
________________________________________________________________________________
Page 198 Aircraft Spruce catalog
Cash Copeland
QB #60075
RV-6 N46FC (Reserved)
Oakland, Ca
n a message dated 9/15/00 3:00:59 PM Central Daylight Time, 6430(at)axion.net
writes:
<<
Anybody know why we are not supposed to use perfumed talc when installing
tubes into tires ?
Is it because alcohol is used in perfumes ?
I have tried all over to find the non-perfumed type....no luck..
Matter of fact, I know I used "old spice" talc to install tubes in the past,
without any bad after effects......
A.T.
>>
Cash Copeland
QB #60075
RV-6 N46FC (Reserved)
Oakland, Ca
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Filler over primer? |
09/15/2000 04:16:47 PM
FWIW, I did both Smooth Prime & the credit card/poly fil method & much
prefer the poly-fill/credit card method. It went faster than I thought. I
used strong "english" while wiping the blue goop into the pin holes....i.e.
wipe with some force to push the blue stuff into the holes. A light bulb
underneath helps to see what your doing. Keep wiping the F/G with the
credit card so there is no exrta sanding after the blue stuff cures...i.e
only put the blue stuff in the holes. I got to a point that I could do my
fairings with this method and not require a sanding between primer
coats...
"Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>@matronics.com on 09/15/2000 02:11:19 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to "Randy Lervold"
<randy@rv-8.com>
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Filler over primer?
Fiberglass gurus (or those with experience filling pinholes):
I just shot my first coat of high-build primer on the outside of my cowling
top half. Man, tons of pinholes showed up that I literally could not see
before shooting. Seems like I have two choices: 1) keep shooting additional
filler/primer, sanding between coats, to eventually fill them up, or 2) go
back and spread some epoxy/micro (Poly Fil) into them with a credit card.
I just put some pics on my web site showing the extent of the holes at
www.rv-8.com/pgPainting.htm
My question is: has anyone put filler back over primer, and does it adhere
ok?
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, N558RL, in pinhole prison presently
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
Subject: | Flap operational speed |
All--
Has anyone asked Van's or tried using thicker aluminum flap skins to
increase Vfe?
Nothing much in the archives.
I mean, this RV-4 guy with the vortex generators...
Lowering the flaps in a tight dogfight turn is a time honored practice,
but at 100 mph it has limited utility in the RV series.
Any comments?
Boyd.
yankin' an' bankin', in a gentlemanly fashion, n'est ce pas?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Rocky Mountain hardware? |
--- Ken Balch wrote:
> My question regards the uMonitor. To whit: Do I want/need one? I've
> been planning on a full set of Electronics International gauges and
> I'm
> wondering if I can save a little money and retain the same
> functionality with the uMonitor?
I have both the uEncoder and uMonitor in my (mockup) panel.
When you do the math, the Encoder will be about a wash compared to all
the instruments it replaces. I like it.
The worth of the Monitor really depends on how many discrete engine
instruments you would otherwise install. Since the Monitor does so
much, you would have to really fill out the panel (of a -6 or -9) with
engine instruments, and then there will probably be a deficit on the
Monitor side. The "non-tangible" benefits are space and weight
consumed, central location and alarm functions.
Bottom line is, you can probably spend less on a typical layout of
discrete engine instruments given enough space, but for complete cost
parity with something like the Simplifly alarm system, you would be
pushing it.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Filler over primer? |
In a message dated 9/15/00 2:17:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time, randy@rv-8.com
writes:
> I just shot my first coat of high-build primer on the outside of my cowling
> top half. Man, tons of pinholes showed up that I literally could not see
> before shooting. Seems like I have two choices: 1) keep shooting additional
> filler/primer, sanding between coats, to eventually fill them up, or 2) go
> back and spread some epoxy/micro (Poly Fil) into them with a credit card.
Randy,
I'd recommend that you shoot a wet coat of your filler primer on the
pinholes, then rub the primer into the pinholes with your (gloved) finger
while the primer is still wet. If you have an airbrush, you could shoot a few
pinholes at a time. Then, shoot another coat of primer. If the pinholes
reappear, rub the primer into those holes too. One or two applications like
this will take care of most pinholes. This is a quick, effective solution,
and you know the primer will stick to itself, wheras the micro *might* not
hold on.
Don't feel bad about the amount of work required. By the time I was finished
with my cowl, I bet I had 20 hours of sanding and filling in it. Sure looks
nice, though.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fran Malczynski" <ebafm(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: FS: Sioux Air Drill and DeVilbiss HVLP Spraygun |
If not already taken, I'll take the DeVilbiss spray gun.
Thanks
Fran Malczynski
5716 West Bluff
Olcott, NY 14126
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard L. Lamb" <rll(at)netcom.com>
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2000 11:13 AM
Subject: RV-List: FS: Sioux Air Drill and DeVilbiss HVLP Spraygun
>
> Listers:
>
> A couple more good deals as a result of my postponed project.
>
> Sioux 1410 1/4" pneumatic mini-palm drill. Never used. Picture at:
> http:\\www.iea.com\dlamb\drillsioux.jpg. Asking $125.00, and
> I'll pay shipping.
>
> DeVilbiss "Finish Line" HVLP suction feed spraygun. Model
> FLG-622-322. This is the "$159 Habor Freight gun" that has
> received some good recommendations on this list. This one
> is still in its sealed box! Asking $100.00, and I'll pay the
> shipping.
>
> Richard Lamb
> rll(at)netcom.com
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Emergency Airworthiness Directive |
>> the post reads......."Although we are not
subject to AD's........... Can Das Fed please state the official word on
AD's. Even thou we are experimentals(airplanes) , if our engine data plate
says anything other than experimental we are subject to the AD's ? This is
one reason I got 20 hours fly-off......I had a NON-experimental engine &
Sensenich propeller....<<
I'm not Das Fed, who hopefully will respond also, but our local FSDO
recently wrote an article in their newsletter to local pilots addressing
this very subject. I've copied the text below (without permission) hoping
this will shed some light on this. It sure makes sense to me.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
**************************
"Maintenance Update
By Gordon Reade,
Portland FSDO
Do Airworthiness Directives (ADs) apply to certificated Engines,
Propellers, or parts installed on Amateur Built aircraft? This is a question
that has been bantered about for as long as I can remember. Every time we
think it is nailed down, someone writes an article that causes doubt to
resurface.
The Experimental Aircraft Associations web site (www.safetydata.com)
recently published an article by Ron Alexander (May 1997 Sport Aviation), in
which Mr. Alexander states The FAA has further qualified Airworthiness
directives as they apply to amateur-built airplanes. Airworthiness
Directives cannot apply to any part of an amateur-built airplane unless that
airplane is cited along with who should do the work and to what standards.
On the same safetydata web site, EAA states Amateur-built aircraft do not
have to comply with ADs, however, if you are using a certificated engine,
propeller, or component and you wish to maintain that certification, ADs
must be complied with. It is permissible to mark the product data plate as
being Experimental so as to eliminate the requirement to comply with the
AD.
Here is FAAs legal position based on the FARs and a task force report.
AD
s are not issued against amateur-built aircraft. ADs issued against
certified engines, props, and appliances are required. Amateur-built
operating limitations require compliance with FAR 91. FAR Part 91.403
requires compliance with Part 39 (ADs). FAR 39.3 states No person shall
operate a product to which an AD applies except in accordance with the
requirements of that AD. FAR 39.1 defines a product, or for the purpose of
ADs, as an aircraft, engine, prop, or appliance. Advisory Circular (AC)
39-7C further supports this position. It states that ADs do apply to
aircraft in the experimental category at least as it applies to parts
installed.
What products or appliances may be eligible for an AD? Briefly, if a
product has an FAA approved parts tag or data plate, an AD issued against
it would apply. This is regardless of whether the part has been modified,
altered or repaired in the area subject to the AD.
The EAA says you may mark the product data plate as being treated as
experimental. FAR 45, however, prohibits the removal, modification, or
installation of any aircraft or certified engine/propeller data plate
without approval from the Administrator (FAA). The FSDO is prepared to issue
written approval for any amateur builder who wishes to remove/change an
aircraft, engine, or propeller data plate. If an amateur builder legally
changes the data plate to make it his or her own part, the AD will no longer
apply. FAR 45 does not prohibit modification of appliance tags by an amateur
builder. Always remember that ADs are only issued whne an unsafe condition
exists. The FAA and EAA both agree that its prudent to comply with an AD
for safety reasons. Failure to comply with Airworthiness Directives could
put you, your passengers, and the public at risk."
________________________________________________________________________________
>>Anybody know why we are not supposed to use perfumed talc when installing
tubes into tires ?
Is it because alcohol is used in perfumes ?
I have tried all over to find the non-perfumed type....no luck..
Matter of fact, I know I used "old spice" talc to install tubes in the past,
without any bad after effects......<<
Go to any bicycle store and buy some "tire talc"... just the thing.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
The local Pep Boys auto parts stores here in Denver carry tire talc.
Camel brand.
--
Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado
RV-6A N99PZ Flying
Engine: Aerosport Power O-360-A1A
Prop: Sensenich 72FM8S9-1-83
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Index: AcAfV8Spb1DG4ZtoQK2Ofi6avo0MNAAAApzw
From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Subject: | Flap operational speed |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Flap operational speed
Boyd,
I think the flaps are pretty strong themselves, but the hinge holding
the flaps on and the the flap torque tube behind the seats are where you
would want to add more strength IMHO. Put your flaps down, pull up on
the flap any you will see what I mean...the torque tube twists. I'm not
sure how you could beef up the flap hinge area.
By the way, thanks for the info on the hangar door. I am considering
it....
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 33 hours
back in the air tomorrow after 2 weeks of deprivation (upgrades, fix
squawks)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: Emergency Airworthiness Directive |
Bill Noel wrote:
>
>
> You are most DEFINATELY subject to that AD if that engine is on your plane!
> Why do you think the FAA has less test hours when you use a CERTIFICATED
> engine in an experimental aircraft.You may have an experimental aircraft,
> but you still have a CERTIFICATED engine. AD's apply to all certificated
> products. You may get by with head in the sand logic until an accident when
> the insurance will not pay since your aircraft was not airworthy meeting
> type design and compliance with applicable FAR's ( AD's are extensions of
> part 39). You may also face violation. Bill Noel A&P,IA - Chief Inspector,
> volunteer FAA counselor Dallas pain in the ass region.
This issue has been beat to death over the years, while I am
not going to say you HAVE or DON'T have to comply I would like
to say that is usually the Engine-Prop combination that determines
25 or 40 hours for a test period. You can have brand new certified
engine and a wood prop you carved and you well NORMALLY get 40 hours
because of the prop.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles L. Cotton" <charles(at)cottonfamily.com> |
Subject: | GNS 430 - Dealer Install Only? |
"Charles L. Cotton"
Guys:
Can you buy the GNS 430 and install it yourself in experimental
aircraft? Everything I've read states its a dealer-installed item
only. All the pricing I've seen has been a turn-key price.
Thanks,
Chas.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
Subject: | Re: Flap operational speed |
bcbraem(at)home.com wrote:
> Has anyone asked Van's or tried using thicker aluminum flap skins to
> increase Vfe?
The limiting factor might be the flap hinges rather than the skins. Or
some other part of the flap actuating mechanism. Or maybe the wing rear
spar.
I wouldn't fiddle with this, unless (a) I'd discussed it thoroughly with
Van, and (b) I was wearing a chute.
Hell, even then I wouldn't do it.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Emergency Airworthiness Directive
Thread-Index: AcAfX4T4NnWEj4SDQ3OAqLIg6IPfxAAANI6Q
From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Subject: | Emergency Airworthiness Directive |
I have to agree with Jerry. Here's the subject of AD's boils down to:
Proven compliance with AD's, certificated engine, prop, and accessories
= 25 hours test time.
Anything else = 40 hours test time.
It just flat-out depends on the personality of the inspector how he sees
what you have. Some give 25 hour periods on airplanes with engines from
Bart, some give 40.
What you do after your test time is flown off is up to you. If you
don't want to comply with AD's after that, nobody can stop you from
flying your airplane since it is an EXPERIMENTAL. The only thing that
AD compliance on the engine should affect is your test time. Example:
I want to fly my airplane as an EXPERIMENT to see if the prop will come
apart by not complying with an AD note on the prop, for my own
education. That's completely legal. Inspector says 40 hours, and he
can't stop you from flying because of that. I want to have two pop
rivets holding the seat belts on as an EXPERIMENT to see if they shear
during impact. That's legal too. That's the way my inspector explained
things to me.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 33 hours
>This issue has been beat to death over the years, while I am
>not going to say you HAVE or DON'T have to comply I would like
>to say that is usually the Engine-Prop combination that determines
>25 or 40 hours for a test period. You can have brand new certified
>engine and a wood prop you carved and you well NORMALLY get 40 hours
>because of the prop.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: Flap operational speed |
bcbraem(at)home.com wrote:
>
>
> All--
>
> Has anyone asked Van's or tried using thicker aluminum flap skins to
> increase Vfe?
>
> Nothing much in the archives.
>
> I mean, this RV-4 guy with the vortex generators...
>
> Lowering the flaps in a tight dogfight turn is a time honored practice,
> but at 100 mph it has limited utility in the RV series.
>
> Any comments?
>
> Boyd.
> yankin' an' bankin', in a gentlemanly fashion, n'est ce pas?
>
You are braver than me if you asked him a question like that.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: experimental battery box |
I suppose I can comment on this one.
1. You should stay within the law; to the extent that you can sort it
out.
2. Please don't ask the FAA to make more rules.
I can further comment from personal experience.
Place--Aeronautical ground school, Franklin High, 1951.
I show up for class and am drafted to help pick up bits and pieces of
battery in a 35X150 ft. shop. The story went like this:
Fred was repeatedly magnetizing a scew driver in order to retrieve a
screw from the bowels of a big Ranger engine.
The teacher, Wally Reed, said: Fred, I thought I told you to turn off the
battery charger before you hooked up the battery.
Fred replied: Well gee Mr. Reed, I did it this way three times before and
nothing happened !
In a very personal experience at a gas station in Richmond Va. in 1962.
The engine acted up when I was driving out so I stopped. A gas station
attendent ( pronounced kid ) came to help and when he saw that the
battery cable sparked when he shook the cable, he shook it some more and
saw some more sparks. Then came the hissing sound of burning hydrogen
forcing it's way out of the battery. Then about an eighth of the top of
my battery exploded off the rest of it.
The moral of these stories is this; and let's not even go where battery
bits and acid hits you in the eye from a low velocity explosion. If this
happens you will first have to concede that your shirt and undershirt are
ruined. Second you will have to work really fast to neutralize the acid
in the engine room so as to prevent shiny metal from getting permanent
black stains on it and save the painted surfaces and wiring. third you
will have to work just as fast to save your 3000 dollar paint job if any
acid gets on that. Fourth you will have to recognize that this has been
your fault and to add insult to injury you are going to have to buy
another battery. Like the man said, be carful out there.
>
> The FAA Inspector that signed off on my aircraft noted that the
> sealed batteries (RG-recombinant gas) don't need to have a box and if
in a box, it does not need to vented.
More crossed signals?
Boyd Concorde 35-AXC
> >
>
Apparently battery boxes are supposed to be vented. One vent into the
box and one out, and to outside the aircraft. Didn't know that until the
FAA inspector commented on the fact that I don't have a battery box.
Finn
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Re: GNS 430 - Dealer Install Only? |
> Guys:
> Can you buy the GNS 430 and install it yourself in experimental
> aircraft? Everything I've read states its a dealer-installed item
> only. All the pricing I've seen has been a turn-key price.
>
> Thanks,
> Chas.
I found an FBO locally who sold me the equipment (including a 430) for the
best price around, and all he requires is that I let him check out the
wiring prior to putting them in service. He will then handle any warrantee
work as if he put them in. As far as Garmin (or whomever) is concerned, the
dealer put them in.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A O360, Airflow, CS
may fly in '01
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Filler over primer? |
> I just shot my first coat of high-build primer on the outside of my
cowling
> top half. Man, tons of pinholes showed up that I literally could not see
> before shooting. Seems like I have two choices: 1) keep shooting
additional
> filler/primer, sanding between coats, to eventually fill them up, or 2) go
> back and spread some epoxy/micro (Poly Fil) into them with a credit card.
Lacquer putty (3M sells stuff called spot putty, bright green in color) is
designed to be put over primer. One of the solvents in their putty is
acetone, and I used a little additional acetone to slightly thin the putty
and give it a little longer workability. I spread it up, down, across and
diagonally, and eventually the rotten little buggers are filled in.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A O360, Airflow, CS
may fly in '01
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Truly dead engine |
From: | Scott.Fink(at)microchip.com |
09/15/2000 05:32:14 PM
I will second that, After shutting down with the mixture at idle cutoff to
refuel and then re-starting to reposition the plane without using the
checklist, several times I have forgotten to enrich the mixture, the engine
started EVERY time and ran for a few seconds before dying. I have a carb
on an O320.
Scott Fink
Re: as long as it's at idle cutoff, it shouldn't start should it?
The engine fired and ran
for about 2 seconds then died. I had failed to move the mixture from idle
cut off. But it still ran, not for long, but long enough to remove an arm,
or head.
If I had a faulty ignition ground, that engine would be ready to go. I
don't know why this happened. I have not tried to duplicate it. Just a
heads up.
I guess props are like guns, always treat them like they are loaded, and
don't point them at anything you don't want to hit.
Don Mei
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: where to buy fuelube/sealube |
Carey:
Aircraft Spruce. About $24.00 for 1 pound
George Kilishek
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rvmils(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2000 10:37 AM
Subject: RV-List: where to buy fuelube/sealube
>
> This sounds like good stuff, where can I pick it up?
> Carey Mills
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
Subject: | Bulkhead drain holes |
I am to the point of skinning fuselage and am wondering if it is necessary to put
drain holes in the bottom of bulkheads. If so at what exact location do the
holes need to be and what size? Are these holes really necessary?
Should I anticipate a collection of moisture in my fuselage?
Dave Ford
RV6 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
Today I was given a quick overview of the operation of the engine driven
fuel pump on my O-320-D1A. As I mentioned in yesterday's post, earlier in
thr week I had too much fuel pressure overpower the float valve & flood the
carb. I did have the electric pump on at the time. From today's
discussion, I was told there is an internal pressure relief valve that
regulates the fuel pressure. Perhaps something got behind the spring in the
relief valve & is causing too much pressure. My fuel pump has 132 hrs on
it. Has anyone had this happen to them? Has anyone overpressurized the
float valve because both pumps were on?
Rick Caldwell
-6 Melbourne, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Transporting an Engine??? |
What is the best way to strap and hold down an O-320
engine in the back of my truck? I will be traveling
several hundred miles and the last thing I want to do
is damage this engine in transport.
Dan DeNeal
pickled in Hoopeston, Illinois
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Truly dead engine |
I tried a restart on my 172 rental today and it restarted no problem without
moving the mixture from Idle Cut-off!!!! Ran for a second or two before
dying again.
Be careful out there.
Marty in Brentwood.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Scott.Fink(at)microchip.com>
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2000 7:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Truly dead engine
>
>
> I will second that, After shutting down with the mixture at idle cutoff to
> refuel and then re-starting to reposition the plane without using the
> checklist, several times I have forgotten to enrich the mixture, the
engine
> started EVERY time and ran for a few seconds before dying. I have a carb
> on an O320.
>
> Scott Fink
>
>
> Re: as long as it's at idle cutoff, it shouldn't start should it?
>
> The engine fired and ran
> for about 2 seconds then died. I had failed to move the mixture from idle
> cut off. But it still ran, not for long, but long enough to remove an
arm,
>
> or head.
>
> If I had a faulty ignition ground, that engine would be ready to go. I
> don't know why this happened. I have not tried to duplicate it. Just a
> heads up.
>
> I guess props are like guns, always treat them like they are loaded, and
> don't point them at anything you don't want to hit.
>
> Don Mei
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
Well, I finally wrestled that thing into submission. When we last left our
hero he had spent most of two days building appropriate tools and wrestling
with a vacuum system.
The pump was installed and it worked fine. I had to tweak the regulator to
get the suction where I wanted it but no problem. Did a "smoke test" on it
and everything seemed fine. Flew for .5 and had a small dribble of oil on
the bottom. Pull cowl and inspect. Sure enough the pump is leaking at the
bottom of the pad. Sigh.
So, off comes the pump and the bottom of the gasket is pretty wet. I find
out that there is an oil hole at the bottom of the pad because back in the
day vacuum pumps were wet. So this oil hole is blasting 90psi juice at the
base of the pump and the gasket isn't holding it very well. So I ran a
small film of Permatex around the hole on both sides of the gasket and
Voila! No more leaks.
Now that I'm a pro, I can get that pump on in about 20 minutes...
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A, 0320-D1a (160hp)
Sensenich 70x78, N427EM, 350+hrs.
ebundy(at)micron.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: Emergency Airworthiness Directive |
Your article is a very good example of regional differences between FSDOs,
etc. Each little fiefdom makes their own interpretations and then enforces
them on their region. Unless you get the national head office to make an
official proclamation, the policy is different for each region. Even then
it may revert due to their local interpretation.
A good example is the recent shoulder belt installation. In the Alaskan
region for FIFTY years, shoulder belts were installed as a minor change only
requiring a log entry. This was their interpretation and people used it
safely for 50 years while the rest of us had to use expensive STCs or long
drawn out 337 field approvals.
FSDOs have even been known to invalidate an approved STC like the auto gas
STC for their region (Nevada) or landing at airports with experimentals at
an airport surrounded with houses (Long Beach, CA). These are just two of
many as most aren't so blatant and affect so many.
The regs are so convoluted, long, poorly written with controlling items in
several different areas with strange exceptions, you will never know whether
many rules apply to you as an experimental.
The best source is Earl Lawrence, VP of Government Programs. If you run up
against what you feel is one of these local interpretations, call Earl or
write him at EAA, elawrence(at)eaa.org He can give you the real scoop. He can
get the local FSDO to comply with the real interpretation for you.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV-8.com-RL" <randy@rv-8.com>
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2000 3:54 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Emergency Airworthiness Directive
>
> >> the post reads......."Although we are not
> subject to AD's........... Can Das Fed please state the official word on
> AD's. Even thou we are experimentals(airplanes) , if our engine data
plate
> says anything other than experimental we are subject to the AD's ? This is
> one reason I got 20 hours fly-off......I had a NON-experimental engine &
> Sensenich propeller....<<
>
>
> I'm not Das Fed, who hopefully will respond also, but our local FSDO
> recently wrote an article in their newsletter to local pilots addressing
> this very subject. I've copied the text below (without permission) hoping
> this will shed some light on this. It sure makes sense to me.
>
> Randy Lervold
> www.rv-8.com
>
>
> **************************
> "Maintenance Update
> By Gordon Reade,
> Portland FSDO
>
> Do Airworthiness Directives (ADs) apply to certificated Engines,
> Propellers, or parts installed on Amateur Built aircraft? This is a
question
> that has been bantered about for as long as I can remember. Every time we
> think it is nailed down, someone writes an article that causes doubt to
> resurface.
> The Experimental Aircraft Associations web site
(www.safetydata.com)
> recently published an article by Ron Alexander (May 1997 Sport Aviation),
in
> which Mr. Alexander states The FAA has further qualified Airworthiness
> directives as they apply to amateur-built airplanes. Airworthiness
> Directives cannot apply to any part of an amateur-built airplane unless
that
> airplane is cited along with who should do the work and to what standards.
> On the same safetydata web site, EAA states Amateur-built aircraft do not
> have to comply with ADs, however, if you are using a certificated engine,
> propeller, or component and you wish to maintain that certification, ADs
> must be complied with. It is permissible to mark the product data plate as
> being Experimental so as to eliminate the requirement to comply with the
> AD.
> Here is FAAs legal position based on the FARs and a task force
report. AD
> s are not issued against amateur-built aircraft. ADs issued against
> certified engines, props, and appliances are required. Amateur-built
> operating limitations require compliance with FAR 91. FAR Part 91.403
> requires compliance with Part 39 (ADs). FAR 39.3 states No person shall
> operate a product to which an AD applies except in accordance with the
> requirements of that AD. FAR 39.1 defines a product, or for the purpose of
> ADs, as an aircraft, engine, prop, or appliance. Advisory Circular (AC)
> 39-7C further supports this position. It states that ADs do apply to
> aircraft in the experimental category at least as it applies to parts
> installed.
> What products or appliances may be eligible for an AD? Briefly, if
a
> product has an FAA approved parts tag or data plate, an AD issued against
> it would apply. This is regardless of whether the part has been modified,
> altered or repaired in the area subject to the AD.
> The EAA says you may mark the product data plate as being treated
as
> experimental. FAR 45, however, prohibits the removal, modification, or
> installation of any aircraft or certified engine/propeller data plate
> without approval from the Administrator (FAA). The FSDO is prepared to
issue
> written approval for any amateur builder who wishes to remove/change an
> aircraft, engine, or propeller data plate. If an amateur builder legally
> changes the data plate to make it his or her own part, the AD will no
longer
> apply. FAR 45 does not prohibit modification of appliance tags by an
amateur
> builder. Always remember that ADs are only issued whne an unsafe condition
> exists. The FAA and EAA both agree that its prudent to comply with an AD
> for safety reasons. Failure to comply with Airworthiness Directives could
> put you, your passengers, and the public at risk."
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
It is common on certified to over pressurize when using both. Generally
only use the boost pump for priming, sometimes when switching tanks, and
when the engine pump fails.
The engine pump pressure is limited by the spring that is actually pushing
the diaphragm. The engine compresses this spring so that the spring pushes
the fuel so that it is self limiting.
Even that was too much when the Bellanca first came out so there was a
pressure relief valve that returns the fuel to the tank. It also does
another thing which can be important. The continuous flow of fuel reduces to
chance for vapor lock to almost nothing. Hot engine starts are not a
problem.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2000 8:14 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Pump
>
> Today I was given a quick overview of the operation of the engine driven
> fuel pump on my O-320-D1A. As I mentioned in yesterday's post, earlier in
> thr week I had too much fuel pressure overpower the float valve & flood
the
> carb. I did have the electric pump on at the time. From today's
> discussion, I was told there is an internal pressure relief valve that
> regulates the fuel pressure. Perhaps something got behind the spring in
the
> relief valve & is causing too much pressure. My fuel pump has 132 hrs on
> it. Has anyone had this happen to them? Has anyone overpressurized the
> float valve because both pumps were on?
>
> Rick Caldwell
> -6 Melbourne, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dan & Patty Krueger <pndkrueg(at)gulfsurf.infi.net> |
Subject: | Re: Transporting an Engine??? |
Dan & Patty Krueger
Dan DeNeal wrote:
>
> What is the best way to strap and hold down an O-320
>
Don George in Orlando put my O-320 on a tire and than put it in the back
of my van. 400 miles later I off loaded it into my garage with nary a
scratch.
Dan Krueger
Hooking up that 320
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Transporting an Engine??? |
In a message dated 9/15/00 10:23:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com writes:
> What is the best way to strap and hold down an O-320
> engine in the back of my truck? I will be traveling
> several hundred miles and the last thing I want to do
> is damage this engine in transport.
>
> Dan DeNeal
> pickled in Hoopeston, Illinois
I've seen several engines shipped by cushioning them using an old auto or
truck tire, with the sump through the hole. I seem to remember that the
intake tubes need to be removed so they don't get crushed.
You should be able to get a good deal on a Firestone somewhere...
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Bulkhead drain holes |
In a message dated 9/15/00 6:07:35 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
dford(at)michweb.net writes:
<< I am to the point of skinning fuselage and am wondering if it is necessary
to put drain holes in the bottom of bulkheads. If so at what exact location
do the holes need to be and what size?>>
A drill size around #30 and a few holes per bulkhead would be my suggestion.
You want them small to let water out and not let other bad things in. If you
are building a tricycle geared plane, the holes should go immediately behind
the bulkheads as water will naturally puddle there both in the air and on the
ground. If you are building a taildragger you need to consider whether you
expect to get more water on the ground or in the air and act accordingly.
<< Are these holes really necessary?>>
Like everything else these days there are two schools of thought, both
diametrically opposed and passionate. Your mama raised you to make your own
decisions.
<< Should I anticipate a collection of moisture in my fuselage? >>
Only if you intend to fly or park in the rain.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Incredible, But True |
Hi gang,
The story below is as brief as possible, and is for those who have thoughts
of long distance flying.
After a 9 month search to replace my damaged RV-4, I found a new, and
beautifully built -4 in Northern Idaho. She is an I0-360 with a C/S prop.
Prop and engine are newly rebuilt and certified. The engine was specially
balanced during the O/H, and may be putting out more than the 180 hp book
value. N180PF had 35 hrs. on her when I purchased her last Saturday. After
nearly two full days of waiting out the rain, I began the following trip:
I left Moscow, ID at 2:00 PM on Monday afternoon headed Southeast over the
Rockies toward Logan Utah to refuel. I then headed East, and with 3
additional refueling stops, arrived in Philadelphia on Tuesday night.
Total flight time = 14.2 hrs. Distance was about 2550 miles. Average speed
including slowdowns for landings, circling for A/P checkout, take-offs,
etc. was 180 miles/ hour ! The average cruising TAS was nearly 200
miles/hr. All cruising was at 11,500 MSL. Tail winds helped some, and head
winds hurt some. They averaged out to about 5 mph in my favor. Ground speed
was usually 210 mph....hour after hour.
My brand new moving map GPS crapped out on me after the 1st hour of flying.
I used my charts and wrist watch to fly the rest of the trip. I had no VOR
and no transponder. I headed into the sun in the morning and kept it to my
back in the afternoon. East/west section lines across 2/3rds of the USA
helped ease the navigation. High altitude flight helped a great deal as
well. The good weather helped even further. But what was incredible was
that the aircraft was so docile and stable with me trying to unfold and
re-fold WAC charts, hold altitude and direction, and feign confidence while
talking to myself. I really had to slow down the last 200 miles to avoid
getting lost in poor weather conditions while flying "on top". This is
something I never do, but my view of the conditions 100 miles ahead from
the vantage point of over 12,000 feet was comforting.
I am by no means more than an average pilot. This plane made me feel more
confident than any Cessna ever did. I have flown coast-to-coast in my C-150
three times. Average flying time was 35 hours each way, and I was either
scared or worried at all times. The RV-4 is like a heart
transplant......with a Lion's heart.
The acceleration on take-off is almost scarry. Its like a dragster. I have
never flown a constant speed prop, and have a great deal to learn. HOWEVER,
I learned that with prop full forward, this aircraft climbs at an honest
3000 ft/min to 5000 ft. By the time it falls off to 2000 ft/min., your
blood has pooled to the back of your torso. Three point take-offs are to be
expected; by the time you start to raise the tail, she's off the ground
(300 feet or less). I'm not exaggerating. My only regret is that Bill and
Jeremy are not here to see this.
P.S.
Upon arrival in Philadelphia, I found the left gear leg fiberglass fairing
separated at its trailing edge. The rivets holding the piano hinge pulled
through the glass for most of its length. Do you think the "slightly heavy
wing" I experienced on my last leg was caused by this? Any body have a fix
for this?
Louis
Louis I. Willig
larywil(at)home.com
RV-4, N180PF, 50 hrs.
I0-360, Hartzell C/S
(610) 668-4964
Philadelphia, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Incredible, But True |
>
> ... All cruising was at 11,500 MSL.
>
> ... My brand new moving map GPS crapped out on me after the 1st
> hour of flying.
> I used my charts and wrist watch to fly the rest of the
> trip. I had no VOR
> and no transponder.
> ...
Correct me if I am wrong, but it is my understanding that a
transponder is required to fly above 10,000 feet MSL. See FAR 91.215
(5)(i).
Mark Nielsen
RV-6; 590 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | RE: USed Precision MA 4-5 Carb |
Listers:
I have a used MA 4-5 Carb for sale. Came off my 0-360 for an airflow
performance fuel injection. Engine had 700 hrs since new in 1996. Would
like to get $425.00 for it. I am about ready to put it on E-bay so if
someone would like it get back to me at aronsond(at)pacbell.net We can
work out the shipping.
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
FWF at last
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Michael Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
Subject: | Yeller Pages Update |
Listers!
The latest version of Gary VanRemortel's RV Builder's Yeller Pages is now
online at
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm
Thanks Gary!
- Mike
RV6A (in progress) N642MH (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Incredible, But True |
> Correct me if I am wrong, but it is my understanding that a
> transponder is required to fly above 10,000 feet MSL. See FAR 91.215
> (5)(i).
yeah yeah, and unless you are wearing a parachute you can't blah blah blah.
:-)
Greatest thing about altitude is there are NO cops hiding behind that next
cloud. hehe
Bill
-4 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Incredible, But True |
In a message dated 9/16/00 2:12:13 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
billshook(at)mindspring.com writes:
> Greatest thing about altitude is there are NO cops hiding behind that next
> cloud. hehe
True, but there are airliners doing 300 knots with Traffic Collision
Avoidance Systems that will detect your transponder well before the pilots
see that sleek little RV-4 (There's been more than a few times I was glad to
have TCAS on board and the other guy had his transponder on). Below 10,000
feet you have a little better chance to be seen since they have to slow down
to 250 knots...Not much faster than that sleek little RV-4.
Bob Moser
Shop Prep and dreamin' of an -8 Tail
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Transporting an Engine??? |
Dan & Patty Krueger wrote:
>
>
> Dan DeNeal wrote:
>
> >
> > What is the best way to strap and hold down an O-320
> >
>
> Don George in Orlando put my O-320 on a tire and than put it in the back
> of my van. 400 miles later I off loaded it into my garage with nary a
> scratch.
>
> Dan Krueger
> Hooking up that 320
I concur. You can see a photo of my RV-6 engine lounging in the bed of a
pickup with the aid of a couple of old tires (scroll down the page):
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/overhaul-3.htm
I didn't have to go 400 miles but I see no reason why the engine would
not have been secure for such a trip. By the way, the carb was not
mounted. If there is no oil in the engine, it can easily be transported
upside down. But having it right side up makes it easier to hook to a
hoist if you are unloading the engine single handed.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "J. Rion Bourgeois" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Transporting an Engine??? |
Dan: a friend of mine took his O-320 up to Bart LaLonde upside down on a
tire carcass in the back of a truck. Rion
----- Original Message -----
From: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2000 7:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: Transporting an Engine???
>
> What is the best way to strap and hold down an O-320
> engine in the back of my truck? I will be traveling
> several hundred miles and the last thing I want to do
> is damage this engine in transport.
>
> Dan DeNeal
> pickled in Hoopeston, Illinois
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
Subject: | fab air box clearance |
Those of you who have fit the air cleaner to their rv-6a's I have a
question.. on the left side of the lower scoop I have only about 1/2"
clearance between the air box and scoop.. how much does the engine really
move . also after heating the back of the airbox I've managed to get about
1/4" between the air box and nose gear leg. I'd hate to move past this stage
to have to rework it. It's hard to visualize just how much that engine is
really gonna jump around... I'd love to hear about anyone's experience.
Thx..
Steven DiNieri
capsteve(at)wzrd.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "tom" <jelkil(at)interaccess.com> |
Subject: | battery explosions |
I will never have a wet cell battery in any vehicle I own ever again.
Too
much weight, to much damage from leaks, etc. There are plenty of motorcycle
sized dry cells that have the same capacity of full sized wet cells now.
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
Subject: | GNS 430 - Dealer Install Only? |
I've found most of the larger retailers/installers will not offer the garmin
or high end king stuff otc(over the counter) but some will if you purchase a
harness (as with vans).
But smaller av shops like stark avionics are very experimental friendly. I
have no affiliation with stark but will recommend him in a heartbeat as to
ensure he will continue to offer these deals to us when we need it...we must
support people who support us. Typically he works on a small 5%-10% markup.
After wiring the gns myself I cannot believe he offers the harness at 50$. I
think I spent more than that on the crimpers required alone....
Steven DiNieri
capsteve(at)wzrd.com
@valkyrie.net>
Rick: Try Stark Avionics and talk to John (The Owner) as I got my Radios
from him and NO ONE will beat his price!
EXAMPLE: GNS 430 $5950.00 Wired ready to plug in $50.00 a radio.
Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Private airstrip deal |
Listers,
Im thinking seriously about looking for a long skinny 10 or 20 acre parcel to
build a house and hangar on. Has anyone had any experience in dealing with
the County, State and Federal red tape for private airstrips, or is there
any? Do we need their blessing to take off and land our own airplanes on our
own property?
Thanks and happy flying
Kevin Shannon
Bremerton, WA
-9A waiting patiently for fuse kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com> |
Subject: | intrument panel depth |
This is probably a dumb question, but -
The RV-6 drawings show 6" between the instrument panel (f603) and the
subpanel (F668). Many instruments are longer than 6". How does one
accommodate the longer instruments? Move the instrument panel forward or
cut holes in the f668?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
Has Van's address changed?
I have: 14401 NE Keil Rd
Aurora, OR
97002
Steve Hurlbut
shurlbut(at)island.net
RV-6 emp
C-FSND
Comox, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
Subject: | RV-List:rv-6a builders log |
I remember some time back that somebody put together a really good detailed
builders log.(rv-6a) There are some very good general logs but I remember
one really stood out. I just don't remember where.......can anybody help...
I've kept good photo logs, but I've got some good holes in my time
logs...hmmm maybe it only took 475 hours to slow build my rv-6a......NOT....
Steven DiNieri
capsteve(at)wzrd.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Transporting an Engine??? |
Thanks everybody for the advice. It seems pretty
simple once I saw Sam Buchanan's picture.
Thanks again!!!
Dan DeNeal
unpickled in Illinois
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Private airstrip deal |
<<>>
Kevin:
Each state might be a little different but in Wisconsin, you start with the
state dept. of transportation, bureau of aeronautics. They sent me a package
that included all of the state and federal forms along with instructions.
Both the state and federal forms were returned to the state and they
forwarded the federal forms to the regional airport district office of the
FAA. The FAA contacts any airports near your location to see if they have
any objections due to traffic pattern interference. These approvals were
pretty straight forward. It took about two months to get the state and
federal approvals and there were no fees involved.
Then the real fun began: dealing with the local town planning commission,
town board and county planning department. They required a formal plan of
operation and approval of a conditional use permit. There were a lot of
meetings and fees but eventually I got the required approvals. One thing
that helped me was that I went around and talked to all of my neighbors
before they got their certified letters from the county inviting them to a
public hearing. I gave them copies of my plan of operation and assured them
that they weren't going to have an international airport next door. All were
very supportive and no one said anything negative at the public hearing. The
town officials could hardly believe it, but I explained that I had already
talked to the neighbors which really "greased the skids". I had the most
problems with the town attorney who wanted to put too many restrictions on
the airstrip such as no ultralights and no helicopters. I eventually got
those two restrictions removed but it involved another round of public
meetings. It was a hassle but now that it's done I feel that it was worth
it. The entire process took about 6 months. My grass strip is 1,700 feet
long with pretty good approaches.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Installing wingtips & waiting for fuselage
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Pump
It is common on certified to over pressurize when using both. Generally
only use the boost pump for priming, sometimes when switching tanks, and
when the engine pump fails.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- - - - - - - - - -
Cy,
I don't think this is totally good/correct advice (at least not a crossed
the board for all airplanes anyway).
All of the certified low wing airplanes that I have flown over the years
have had checklists and POH's that called for use of the boost/auxiliary
pump during take off and landing, and very often while switching fuel
tanks.
If you ever had an engine driven pump failure at the start of your
takeoff roll the carb float bowl (assuming a carbureted engine, a fuel
injected engine would likely quite immediately) would likely run dry just
shortly after lift off. Even if you immediately turned on the aux. pump,
you could likely be in the weeds before the engine ran again.
It would be just as inconvenient if it happened on your turn to base when
you end up a little low and need to add power to result in an on runway
landing.
In RV's I always use it during take off and landing and for switching
tanks.
For start up I also turn it on and then back off before engine start.
This fully fills the carb. bowl in case their has been any evaporation.
It also pressurizes the system. After turning it off you can watch the
fuel pressure gauge. The pressure should not drop off. This is a good
check for fuel system leaks (such as a gascolator drain accidently left
open, etc.) just prior to flight.
If the airplane has fuel injection then of course you have no choice in
using the boost pump for the engine start, but you can still do the
system pressure check by turning it back off for a few moments before you
begin cranking.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: intrument panel depth |
--- tom sargent wrote:
>
> This is probably a dumb question, but -
No dumb questions.
>
> The RV-6 drawings show 6" between the instrument panel (f603) and the
> subpanel (F668). Many instruments are longer than 6". How does one
> accommodate the longer instruments? Move the instrument panel forward
> or cut holes in the f668?
Cut up the sub panel and arrange the panel so that the long stuff is at
the bottom. Buy short stuff when you can.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
Thanks Scott: I was afraid that we were going down the wrong road, with
thinking of no pump on for takeoff. If the engine pump ever fails the you
will sure be glad the pump was on using the bypass valve in the engine pump.
In my past life as a Flight Engineer no takeoff would ever be made without
the pump on as a backup pressure.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB Canopy Stuff DNA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott R McDaniels" <smcdaniels(at)juno.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2000 6:02 PM
>
> From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Pump
>
>
> It is common on certified to over pressurize when using both. Generally
> only use the boost pump for priming, sometimes when switching tanks, and
> when the engine pump fails.
>
>
> Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
>
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> - - - - - - - - - -
>
> Cy,
> I don't think this is totally good/correct advice (at least not a crossed
> the board for all airplanes anyway).
> All of the certified low wing airplanes that I have flown over the years
> have had checklists and POH's that called for use of the boost/auxiliary
> pump during take off and landing, and very often while switching fuel
> tanks.
> If you ever had an engine driven pump failure at the start of your
> takeoff roll the carb float bowl (assuming a carbureted engine, a fuel
> injected engine would likely quite immediately) would likely run dry just
> shortly after lift off. Even if you immediately turned on the aux. pump,
> you could likely be in the weeds before the engine ran again.
> It would be just as inconvenient if it happened on your turn to base when
> you end up a little low and need to add power to result in an on runway
> landing.
> In RV's I always use it during take off and landing and for switching
> tanks.
> For start up I also turn it on and then back off before engine start.
> This fully fills the carb. bowl in case their has been any evaporation.
> It also pressurizes the system. After turning it off you can watch the
> fuel pressure gauge. The pressure should not drop off. This is a good
> check for fuel system leaks (such as a gascolator drain accidently left
> open, etc.) just prior to flight.
> If the airplane has fuel injection then of course you have no choice in
> using the boost pump for the engine start, but you can still do the
> system pressure check by turning it back off for a few moments before you
> begin cranking.
>
>
> Scott McDaniels
> North Plains, OR
> These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
> reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
You are right. Better advise than my over simplified reply. The POH is the
bible for that plane's boost pump operation. Sometimes the aux pump is
required during high power such as take off. But the manufacturer in the
operator's manual will specify when and when not to use the boost pump. Does
Van do this???
How ever, there is an AD (52-28-02 - Fuel pump relief valve) requiring the
pressure relief bypass valve on the 14-13 series of Bellancas as even the
engine pump produced too much pressure.
This engine like many others use the Marvel-Schebler carburetor. The
pressure via the relief valve limits the fuel pressure to 6 psi.
My answer to the gentleman that has the problem was that it is indeed
possible to over pressurize a carburetor fuel system. I may have limited
the use of a boost pump too much as you have indicated. Every application is
different, especially since this is an experimental situation.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
P.S. My certified low winged 14-13-2 has neither a POH nor a check list for
the hand operated boost pump.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott R McDaniels" <smcdaniels(at)juno.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2000 5:02 PM
>
> From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Pump
>
>
> It is common on certified to over pressurize when using both. Generally
> only use the boost pump for priming, sometimes when switching tanks, and
> when the engine pump fails.
>
>
> Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
>
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> - - - - - - - - - -
>
> Cy,
> I don't think this is totally good/correct advice (at least not a crossed
> the board for all airplanes anyway).
> All of the certified low wing airplanes that I have flown over the years
> have had checklists and POH's that called for use of the boost/auxiliary
> pump during take off and landing, and very often while switching fuel
> tanks.
> If you ever had an engine driven pump failure at the start of your
> takeoff roll the carb float bowl (assuming a carbureted engine, a fuel
> injected engine would likely quite immediately) would likely run dry just
> shortly after lift off. Even if you immediately turned on the aux. pump,
> you could likely be in the weeds before the engine ran again.
> It would be just as inconvenient if it happened on your turn to base when
> you end up a little low and need to add power to result in an on runway
> landing.
> In RV's I always use it during take off and landing and for switching
> tanks.
> For start up I also turn it on and then back off before engine start.
> This fully fills the carb. bowl in case their has been any evaporation.
> It also pressurizes the system. After turning it off you can watch the
> fuel pressure gauge. The pressure should not drop off. This is a good
> check for fuel system leaks (such as a gascolator drain accidently left
> open, etc.) just prior to flight.
> If the airplane has fuel injection then of course you have no choice in
> using the boost pump for the engine start, but you can still do the
> system pressure check by turning it back off for a few moments before you
> begin cranking.
>
>
> Scott McDaniels
> North Plains, OR
> These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
> reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)peoplepc.com> |
Subject: | Bottom Wing Skins Tip... |
Ive been riveting my bottom wing skins on today and have a tip for those of
you who haven't done it yet... If you haven't riveted your inspection hole
nutplates to your wing skins, DON'T! I did, and now their ripping my arms
to shreads while I try to get them in there to buck... If you can, wiat
until after you have your skins on...
Bill "bleeding" VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Wings
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Flap operational speed |
I took off with full flaps in my RV6A at 140 kt's I
finally figured out why the airplane was acting so
strange, powered back lifted the flaps and got my
heart working again hence forth I will not full
throttle without check list.
Joe RV6A 106hrs still grin'in
--- bcbraem(at)home.com wrote:
>
> All--
>
> Has anyone asked Van's or tried using thicker
> aluminum flap skins to
> increase Vfe?
>
> Nothing much in the archives.
>
> I mean, this RV-4 guy with the vortex generators...
>
> Lowering the flaps in a tight dogfight turn is a
> time honored practice,
> but at 100 mph it has limited utility in the RV
> series.
>
> Any comments?
>
> Boyd.
> yankin' an' bankin', in a gentlemanly fashion, n'est
> ce pas?
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: GNS 430 - Dealer Install Only? |
r
RICK EXXEL
AVIONCS 1 800700-779 BEST PRICE ANYWHERE
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: fab air box clearance |
> Those of you who have fit the air cleaner to their rv-6a's I have a
> question.. on the left side of the lower scoop I have only about 1/2"
> clearance between the air box and scoop.. how much does the engine really
> move.
My experience with my -6 is that it moves a fair bit. 1/2" is probably good,
1/4" may not be. However, it really isn't that difficult to pull off the
airbox and whack some of a corner off or whatever and re-glass. I'd say
either do this now to get comfortable clearance or forget about it and just
remember to check carefully for chafing in this area during your initial
test period.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~150 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rywessel(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Aircraft Spruce electric gyros |
Just a note-
A lot of people including myself were wondering if those new electric gyros
by Wultrad that ACS offers are any good. I was being teased by the low price
put new that I would be questioning the quality and reliability. I just got
back from the Oregon Air Fair sponsored by the FAA. Aircraft Spruce had a
booth, so I asked if they had any of the import electric gyros available.
Their response was that they did not have any and had to send most of them
back because of high failure rates and poor quality.
So I guess that answers that question.
Robin Wessel
RV-6A finishing
Tigard, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Titanium Ti-downs are available again |
From: | Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com> |
Tony Castellano
tcastella(at)juno.com
5 memory lane
Hopewell Junction, NY 12533
RV-6 N401TC
(845) 227-8527
I would like the
(#5165-3K) tiedown kit, with electric blue bag for $70.
Will send a check right out .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
Subject: | Rudder Pedal Side Bearings (F-6116) |
List: Starting the Finish Kit on my RV6-A-QB and on Plans Page 43A I don't
seem to see anywhere it tells you which direction to mount the F-6116 Rudder
Pedal Bearings?
There are 2 1" Holes in each bearing and one hole is slightly
deeper. Does the bearing end with the deeper Hole go toward the firewall or
toward the Pilot and passenger on the other side.
Thanks Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
Cy Galley wrote:
>
>
> You are right. Better advise than my over simplified reply. The POH is the
> bible for that plane's boost pump operation. Sometimes the aux pump is
> required during high power such as take off. But the manufacturer in the
> operator's manual will specify when and when not to use the boost pump. Does
> Van do this???
>
Maybe I am missing your point but Van would NOT recommend one way
or the other because he is not the manufacturer of our airplanes.
JSpringer
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aircraft Spruce electric gyros |
I spoke with the Wultrad representative at OSH. I
asked why an electric horizon gyro costs so much
compared to its vacuum cousin. She stated that the
electric unit requires two whole days of labor per
worker to complete.<-----Let's see at Chinese labor
rates, 2 days X $10/day, ok that explains 20 bucks.
At $995, even this price seems outrageously expensive.
In holding and examining their merchandise, I didn't
get the feeling I was holding quality equipment. Its
hard to explain but it just seemed ah, umm, . . .
cheap, in my opinion. Although in all fairness, I
haven't flown behind any of their instruments yet.
Rob Miller
80153 Finishing
--- Rywessel(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Just a note-
>
> A lot of people including myself were wondering if
> those new electric gyros
> by Wultrad that ACS offers are any good. I was being
> teased by the low price
> put new that I would be questioning the quality and
> reliability. I just got
> back from the Oregon Air Fair sponsored by the FAA.
> Aircraft Spruce had a
> booth, so I asked if they had any of the import
> electric gyros available.
> Their response was that they did not have any and
> had to send most of them
> back because of high failure rates and poor quality.
>
>
> So I guess that answers that question.
>
> Robin Wessel
> RV-6A finishing
> Sites
> http://www.com/subscribe
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Flap operational speed |
I have opened the 20 degrees of flaps envelope on my RV (by accident) to 130
mph IAS. Forgot to retract them after a short field T/O: no harm done (but
it climbs like a DOG in that regime!)
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/FP Sensenich
Hop-Along Airfield - 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Side Bearings (F-6116) |
--- Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
> Does the bearing end with the deeper Hole go toward the
> firewall or toward the Pilot and passenger on the other side.
When you put both rudder bars in the bearings you will see the
assembled unit is wider at one end (the back) than the other (the
front).
i.e. the outside edges are not parallel.
Stands to reason the deeper hole goes forward.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul & Gerti RV-4 F-1 Rocket 006" <gertivs(at)netzero.net> |
Subject: | Re: Collision Avoidance |
"Paul & Gerti RV-4 F-1 Rocket 006"
> True, but there are airliners doing 300 knots with Traffic Collision
> Avoidance Systems that will detect your transponder well before the pilots
> see that sleek little RV-4 (There's been more than a few times I was glad
to
> have TCAS on board and the other guy had his transponder on). Below 10,000
> feet you have a little better chance to be seen since they have to slow
down
> to 250 knots...Not much faster than that sleek little RV-4.
>
After 300+ hours in my -4 I have had many many occasions (and you have too)
where crossing traffic has dictated a slight left or right. Most times I
was sure that I saw the conflict first because the "other guy" never seems
to deviate his course. Well last Sunday at 6500' I found out why. Doing my
usual "to the stops" cruise an RV-6 crossed my bow at 90 degrees dead level
about 1000' in front of me. Wow! Startled me... a lot. Within a couple of
seconds, his tail disappeared out of sight. People, suspicions confirmed,
the "other guy" positively can't see us. I think I do as good a job of
scanning as the next guy but we do not present a very good eyeball target.
At high cruise and particulaly nose or tail on they can not see us. Most
times I travel 10k plus because of better fuel, better air conditioning and
almost no slow movers.
Paul Vander Schuur
Why pay for something you could get for free?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Then obviously it is up to you to determine the right procedure for using
your boost pump!!! If it floods the engine out under a particular situation,
then don't use it. If your engine needs the boost pump at a particular
time, then use it. You, the manufacturer, need to develop the correct usage
and document completely for the next owner.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2000 9:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:
> Cy Galley wrote:
> >
> >
> > You are right. Better advise than my over simplified reply. The POH is
the
> > bible for that plane's boost pump operation. Sometimes the aux pump is
> > required during high power such as take off. But the manufacturer in the
> > operator's manual will specify when and when not to use the boost pump.
Does
> > Van do this???
> >
> Maybe I am missing your point but Van would NOT recommend one way
> or the other because he is not the manufacturer of our airplanes.
>
> JSpringer
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob Waalkes" <waalkes(at)netnitco.net> |
Subject: | Still stuck on priming |
I'm trying to decide on the best priming route and I realize there are many
options and opinions, based on what I've found in the archives. BUT, I am
building the RV-8 Quickbuild and would prefer to use a 2 part epoxy system.
I understand that the quickbuilds come with Sherwin Williams R60 G2 wash
primer. Is there a problem mixing the two systems? How much internal
priming is left to do on the quickbuild? OR, no big deal, just pick one and
continue building?
Bob Waalkes
RV-8 QB - Emp - Priming Confusion
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Subject: | Need help on mounting wheel to landing gear |
"Van Artsdalen, Scott"
Just in the process of installing my wheels to my landing gear. There's one
thing that is confusing me. I don't have access to part numbers right now
so I will try to explain. The axle on the landing gear comes with a flange
that the Cleavland brake mounts to. An Allen head bolt goes through this
flange and through the axle and is secured with a nut. Only it appears that
this allen head bolt is too long. The shank sticks out quite a bit leaving
the threaded portion quite a bit above the axle. The plans just say to put
a nut on it but the nut won't contact the axle. Does that make sense?
Anybody got any advice (or opinions?)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Martin G. Santic" <martinsan(at)home.com> |
Subject: | RV-9A Rudder Skin Shipping Suggestion |
I just completed an inventory (all parts accounted for) of my RV-9A
empennage and found about a 1/8" to 3/16" nick/gouge in the top of the
R-901-L rudder skin within 1/2 inch of the leading edge. It appears the
damage was caused by one of the "large" staples used to close or secure
the shipping box. The "thin" skin contacted a raised corner of the
staple causing the gouge. This doesn't appear to have been caused by
UPS but rather by the method used to pack the carton.
I am looking for some suggestions on the best method to ship the skin
back to Van's for replacement. I'll be calling them on Monday but
thought I would try the list (my first posting) for any suggestions.
Or am I too concerned with respect to the problem?????
Marty Santic RV-9A Empennage
Davenport, IA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Martin G. Santic" <martinsan(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Still stuck on priming |
Bob:
I just took delivery on my RV-9A empennage and am also looking for some
additional information on priming. Like you, I have spent countless
hours in the archives reading a number of messages. I am concerned over
using the Sherwin Williams "wash" primer used by Van's as I have read a
number of threads indicating that the wash primer must be topcoated
before one gains any corrosion protection. Maybe there's some updated
information to the contrary.
Marty Santic RV-9A Empennage
Davenport, IA
Bob Waalkes wrote:
>
>
> I'm trying to decide on the best priming route and I realize there are many
> options and opinions
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: intrument panel depth |
In a message dated 9/16/00 9:52:45 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
sarg314(at)azstarnet.com writes:
<< The RV-6 drawings show 6" between the instrument panel (f603) and the
subpanel (F668). Many instruments are longer than 6". How does one
accommodate the longer instruments? Move the instrument panel forward or
cut holes in the f668? >>
Moving the panel forward would shorten the distance further, but hey, what do
I know? Moving the subpanel forward or cutting holes in it would be my
choices.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott <acepilot(at)win.bright.net> |
Subject: | Re: Private airstrip deal |
In Wisconsin we need the blessing of the Dept. of Transportation before
constructing or using a private strip and most counties have zoning
laws, so in most counties we need to get a land use permit from the
county zoning board.
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
> Im thinking seriously about looking for a long skinny 10 or 20 acre parcel to
> build a house and hangar on. Has anyone had any experience in dealing with
> the County, State and Federal red tape for private airstrips, or is there
> any? Do we need their blessing to take off and land our own airplanes on our
> own property?
> Thanks and happy flying
> Kevin Shannon
> Bremerton, WA
> -9A waiting patiently for fuse kit
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: RV-9A Rudder Skin Shipping Suggestion |
>
>I just completed an inventory (all parts accounted for) of my RV-9A
>empennage and found about a 1/8" to 3/16" nick/gouge in the top of the
>R-901-L rudder skin within 1/2 inch of the leading edge. It appears the
>damage was caused by one of the "large" staples used to close or secure
>the shipping box. The "thin" skin contacted a raised corner of the
>staple causing the gouge. This doesn't appear to have been caused by
>UPS but rather by the method used to pack the carton.
>
>I am looking for some suggestions on the best method to ship the skin
>back to Van's for replacement. I'll be calling them on Monday but
>thought I would try the list (my first posting) for any suggestions.
>
>Or am I too concerned with respect to the problem?????
>
>Marty Santic RV-9A Empennage
Marty,
As far as whether the damage you have makes the skin unairworthy or
not - you'll have to be the judge. If it is only a minor cosmetic
problem, I doubt that part of the skin will even be visible once the
plane is assembled, if the rudder on the -9 is like the other models.
It is probably worthwhile discussing your damage with Vans tech
support - they will help you figure out whether your part is
airworthy or not. If you determine that your part is not airworthy,
my experience is that Vans does not question your decision, and that
they don't want the part back.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fun with the FAA |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>We were a flight of two Grummans with some close
>(albeit inexperienced) friends returning from OSH to
>CA. We became separated and the other plane never
>showed at the first fuel stop. Our final destination
>was altered because of weather (nasty afternoon
>T-cells) and the others were nowhere to be found. By
>10 pm we were sick with worry as they had not phoned
>home. The FAA did a paperwork/communications search
>and after 4 hours tracked them down. They had become
>disorientated and had been crisscrossing a large
>portion of Wyoming and South Dakota until they came
>across a small airport in the middle of nowhere.
>
>Lesson learned: Open communications and flight plans
>could have prevented a great deal of upset on
>everyone's behalf.
$100 Walmart GPS and cellphones go a long
way toward the same goals.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Side Bearings (F-6116) |
Thanks Mike! You are correct the direction for the F-6116 becomes very clear
once you have an assembled unit.I usually get all the parts together for a
perticuler task and while laying out the parts and looking at the plans
noticed the different holes.
My method never failed to this point. Welcome to the Finish
Kit!!!!
Tom
in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2000 10:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Pedal Side Bearings (F-6116)
>
>
> --- Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
> > Does the bearing end with the deeper Hole go toward the
> > firewall or toward the Pilot and passenger on the other side.
>
> When you put both rudder bars in the bearings you will see the
> assembled unit is wider at one end (the back) than the other (the
> front).
> i.e. the outside edges are not parallel.
> Stands to reason the deeper hole goes forward.
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-9A Rudder Skin Shipping Suggestion |
"Martin G. Santic" wrote:
>
>
> I just completed an inventory (all parts accounted for) of my RV-9A
> empennage and found about a 1/8" to 3/16" nick/gouge in the top of the
> R-901-L rudder skin within 1/2 inch of the leading edge. It appears the
> damage was caused by one of the "large" staples used to close or secure
> the shipping box. The "thin" skin contacted a raised corner of the
> staple causing the gouge. This doesn't appear to have been caused by
> UPS but rather by the method used to pack the carton.
>
> I am looking for some suggestions on the best method to ship the skin
> back to Van's for replacement. I'll be calling them on Monday but
> thought I would try the list (my first posting) for any suggestions.
>
> Or am I too concerned with respect to the problem?????
Yes.
Start building, man! :-)
You can fix the blemish when you get ready to paint the aircraft.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, many minor blemishes now concealed by paint)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Distance between radio stack and other instruments? |
Hi there,
I am starting to get serious about finalizing the layout of my panel.
I made a plywood template, and photocopied a few instruments and
radios. I need to figure out how close I can put the 3 1/8 inch
flight instruments to the radio stack. It looks like the layout I
planned on using (radio stack on the left, basic T in the middle, and
Grand Rapids engine monitor on the right) is going to be a bit tight.
I may need to use the smaller Grand Rapids model, or rejuggle my
layout completely.
I'm not sure what the radio trays and mounting provisions looks like,
nor am I sure how big the 3 1/8 instruments are behind the panel.
How close can I put the holes for the airspeed and turn coordinator
to the edge of the face plates of the radio stack? Can I go closer
if I use 0.090 for the instrument panel, or am I limited by
interference between the instruments and the radio trays and mounts?
Thanks,
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: fab air box clearance |
In a message dated 9/16/00 8:42:31 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
capsteve(at)wzrd.com writes:
<< Those of you who have fit the air cleaner to their rv-6a's I have a
question.. on the left side of the lower scoop I have only about 1/2"
clearance between the air box and scoop.. how much does the engine really
move . also after heating the back of the airbox I've managed to get about
1/4" between the air box and nose gear leg. I'd hate to move past this stage
to have to rework it. It's hard to visualize just how much that engine is
really gonna jump around... I'd love to hear about anyone's experience. >>
I've got about 3/4" distance on my left side and it never hits. My guess
would be that the engine moves about +/- 3/8" in this area with the standard
(softer) dynafocal mounts.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Need help on mounting wheel to landing gear |
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
> Just in the process of installing my wheels to my landing gear. There's one
> thing that is confusing me. I don't have access to part numbers right now
> so I will try to explain. The axle on the landing gear comes with a flange
> that the Cleavland brake mounts to. An Allen head bolt goes through this
> flange and through the axle and is secured with a nut. Only it appears that
> this allen head bolt is too long. The shank sticks out quite a bit leaving
> the threaded portion quite a bit above the axle. The plans just say to put
> a nut on it but the nut won't contact the axle. Does that make sense?
> Anybody got any advice (or opinions?)
>
That is exactly how mine was and is. The bolt is used in shear only and the nut
is
just to keep it from slipping out. It's used like a pin.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: RV-9A Rudder Skin Shipping Suggestion |
Martin,
Vans is very good about replacing parts, however if the little dent is on
the rudder skin leading edge it probably wont even be visible once the rudder
is assembled, the two skins overlap each other in assembly. I dinged up mine
worse than that just trying to get them together. You can hide small stuff
like this easily in the finishing stages IMHO
Happy Building!
Kevin
-9A painting wings and emp, waiting for fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Vince Welch" <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
Subject: | Re: where to buy fuelube/sealube |
I bought mine from Wicks.
Vince Welch
RV-8A Wings
Roaming Shores, Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rvmils(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2000 11:37 AM
Subject: RV-List: where to buy fuelube/sealube
>
> This sounds like good stuff, where can I pick it up?
> Carey Mills
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | to/from line for oil cooler |
Is there a to and from line for the oil cooler, I bought mine from Van's and
I can't do anything without directions.
Blue Skies,
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Christen oil sys for RV4 (help) |
I need to talk to someone who has installed this system on a 4. I have a ton
of ?'s.
Size of hoses, oil valve location, how to mount valve, plumbing to the screen
access port, etc....
Can someone please give me a phone # so I can talk shop.
Thanks,
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: to/from line for oil cooler |
>Is there a to and from line for the oil cooler, I bought mine from Van's
>and
>I can't do anything without directions.
>Blue Skies,
>Carey Mills
>
Carey,
There are two possible "oil to cooler" ports on the O-360, which is what I
have. The one I'm currently using is right next to the breather port
fitting (outboard of it). There is a bayonet type fitting here, with a bolt
used to position a 45 degree male flare fitting with washers top and bottom.
You can swivel the fitting so it points right where you need it, then snug
the bolt down to seal. A regular AN elbow fitting won't work here. The
"oil from cooler" port is immediately above the left magneto mounting stud,
and is a regular pipe thread.
There is another "oil to" port that is commonly used and it is just about
dead center in the accessory case, between the mags and may be plugged with
an allen head pipe fitting in your engine. I've tried both ports and found
no difference at all in my recent oil temp control troubleshooting. The
O-360 operator's manual has a drawing showing both locations. I suppose it's
just a matter of selecting which supply port will work best for your
installation and desired hose length to the cooler. All O-320's that I've
seen have the middle port between the mags being used as the supply hookup.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
O-360/Sensenich 83"/Niagara cooler on baffle
125 hrs.
So many fly-ins, so little time!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Distance between radio stack and other instruments? |
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Date: Sunday, September 17, 2000 9:05 AM
Subject: RV-List: Distance between radio stack and other instruments?
>
>Hi there,
>
>I am starting to get serious about finalizing the layout of my panel.
>I made a plywood template, and photocopied a few instruments and
>radios. I need to figure out how close I can put the 3 1/8 inch
>flight instruments to the radio stack.
Tony B says use 3.5 inch squares to fit gyros --he's right. My hole centers
are 3.540 on center, same-hole-to-same-hole, gyro-to-gyro. Beware:
Templates for gyro/instrument holes aren't good enough for the discerning
builder. The bolt circles and hole orientation aren't standardized between
instruments, at least not to 1/32 inch tolerances.
In the radio stack you'll probably have 3/4x3/4/1/16 angle spaced 6.250 ID
to which you screw the radio trays with #6 pan head screws. The angles eat
into the available real estate, limiting how close you can locate the
instruments.
I'd advise 0.062 2024T3 for the panel. When you cut out those 3 1/8 holes,
the remaining interstitial webs are pretty thin at the narrowest points, so
strength, both via temper and thickness, is a good idea.
By the way, the 3 1/8 instruments do not fit into a 3.1250 diameter hole.
Dennis Persyk N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 0.0 Hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: GNS 430 - Dealer Install Only? |
In a message dated 9/16/00 4:48:06 PM Pacific Daylight Time, WFACT01(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< 1 800700-779 >>
Tom: this is the number you posted for RICK EXXEL AVIONICS. Seems like
ther should be one more digit, true?
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Side Bearings (F-6116) |
In a message dated 9/16/00 7:01:53 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
tcervin(at)valkyrie.net writes:
Tom: I think you will find that not only is one hole slightly deeper but
both are slightly canted. This is to account for the fact that the airframe
gets a little wider from the firewall back to the F604 bulkhead so that the
bearing blocks are also angled slightly outward toward the back. The deeper
hole goes forward
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: experimental battery box |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>The FAA Inspector that signed off on my aircraft noted that the sealed
>batteries (RG-recombinant gas) don't need to have a box and if in a box,
>it does not need to vented.
>
>More crossed signals?
Nope . . . he's one of few folks who truly understand
what it's all about. Buy him a cup of coffee for me
if you get the chance. He's a rare and valuable resource.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: experimental battery box |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>Bob, all what you have written makes so much sense!
>Now in the RV airplanes we have a nice, though not airtight, aluminum
>enclosure. Guess I will have to drill some lightening holes in the top and
>sides so possible hydrogen gasses never can build up.
>See you at Burlington, Lothar RV-6A, wiring instrument panel
Good idea. I'm not going to be able to make Burlington this
year . . . Had to be out of town last weekend, at two different
places this weekend and have a weekend seminar in northern
CA two weeks from now. I just HAVE to stay home next weekend
and put some important duties behind me. Perhaps next year.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: experimental battery box |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>What are your thoughts on installing the battery (sans box), starter
>contactor and battery contactor on the engine side of the firewall?
>For future maintenance Ii seems they would be more accessible at this
>location.
The combination you describe is flying on LOTS of airplanes.
Just keep in mind that the battery is PLASTIC and won't
like radiant heat from exhaust stacks. Other than this, it
will be quite happy living under the cowl.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM |
Daniel,
Dont worry about the holes...I did the same thing. Just drilled the
holes bigger when I attached the VS to the HS.....it worked out fine...no
biggy...
I fly into Puebla alot.....what is up with that Volcano...it looks like
it puts out a lot of steam!!!....
Later,
Kurt, OKC, OK
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Still stuck on priming |
i ve tried various... i like varaprime. clean with coleman fluid and spray.
holds better than marhide and easier than acid etch-alodine-epox. bob in ark
doing wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Still stuck on priming |
quick. that comes with wash. gees, forget it and BUILD!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
Subject: | Trying to access Bunny's web site...no joy... |
RV-List Digest Server
I've been trying to get to Frank van der Hulst's web site for his RV-6 building
guide and I
keep getting a "server not responding" message. I'm using the link on Van's web
site...Frank (if you're 'up' on the list) or anyone...is the Van's link correct?
Anyone
else having problems getting to the site?
Semper Fi
John
RV-6 (VS and HS finished...plugging away on the rudder and right elevator...)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
Subject: | Re: Private airstrip deal |
Hi Chris, is your stirp completed? I'd love to drop by in my Stinson and
take a break from building someday. It' no RV, but I should be able to get
it in and out of 1700 feet ok. I'm working on the 2 nd wing skeleton as we
speak and I'm sure I could pick up a couple of pointers from your project.
My wife, Beth, and I just got back from a weekend in Watertown, WI. The
annual Stinson Reunion was held there and we went to lunch at Palymira
(sic). Those boys really know how to put on a lunch, and you can't beat
their price of $1.92/gal for 80 oct.
Take care,
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2000 4:58 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Private airstrip deal
>
> << County, State and Federal red tape for private airstrips, or is there
> any?>>>
>
> Kevin:
>
> Each state might be a little different but in Wisconsin, you start with
the
> state dept. of transportation, bureau of aeronautics. They sent me a
package
> that included all of the state and federal forms along with instructions.
> Both the state and federal forms were returned to the state and they
> forwarded the federal forms to the regional airport district office of the
> FAA. The FAA contacts any airports near your location to see if they have
> any objections due to traffic pattern interference. These approvals were
> pretty straight forward. It took about two months to get the state and
> federal approvals and there were no fees involved.
>
> Then the real fun began: dealing with the local town planning commission,
> town board and county planning department. They required a formal plan of
> operation and approval of a conditional use permit. There were a lot of
> meetings and fees but eventually I got the required approvals. One thing
> that helped me was that I went around and talked to all of my neighbors
> before they got their certified letters from the county inviting them to a
> public hearing. I gave them copies of my plan of operation and assured
them
> that they weren't going to have an international airport next door. All
were
> very supportive and no one said anything negative at the public hearing.
The
> town officials could hardly believe it, but I explained that I had already
> talked to the neighbors which really "greased the skids". I had the most
> problems with the town attorney who wanted to put too many restrictions on
> the airstrip such as no ultralights and no helicopters. I eventually got
> those two restrictions removed but it involved another round of public
> meetings. It was a hassle but now that it's done I feel that it was worth
> it. The entire process took about 6 months. My grass strip is 1,700 feet
> long with pretty good approaches.
>
> Chris Heitman
> Dousman WI
> RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
> Installing wingtips & waiting for fuselage
> http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
Subject: | Re: Need help on mounting wheel to landing gear |
There was an explaination on this recently from Vans. Look on page 17 of the
2nd issue 2000 for an explaination.
Brian Eckstein
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Smaller Grand Rapids engine monitor |
I was thinking seriously of using the larger Grand Rapids engine
monitor, but it now looks like I won't have room for it unless I
completely rejuggle my planned panel layout. I think the smaller
unit will fit though. I would like to hear from anyone who has one
of the smaller units flying - is it big enough? My eyes aren't old
yet, but they will be before I stop flying this thing.
Thanks,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.nbci.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "J.Arnold" <j_arnold(at)swbell.net> |
Subject: | Working RV6A N92LP |
RV-List Digest Server
I know you probably dont care about this but I am an air traffic controller
at Fort Worth Center. I was working an experimental aircraft N92LP. I asked
him what it was and he replied that it was an RV6A. It has a Lycoming 360
and was doing about 155 knots ground speed. He said it took him right at 2
years to build.
If N92LP happens to read this message, it was a pleasure working you VFR and
providing you advisories. You were very professional in talking to ATC and
that is a joy when it comes to working VFR aircraft who want advisories.
James Arnold
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
Subject: | Re: Rocky Mountain hardware? |
>
>I think the Rocky Mountain only shows temps in Centigrade--not F . . . this
>may or may not be important.
The Rocky Mountain MicroEncoder has the option of C or F temp.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Smaller Grand Rapids engine monitor |
In a message dated 9/17/00 9:12:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
khorton(at)cyberus.ca writes:
> I would like to hear from anyone who has one
> of the smaller units flying - is it big enough?
Hi Kevin,
Have flown one of the smaller ones in UL's and they were very readable. I
really enjoy the big one that I have in my six. The EIS and Garmin 195 have
given me more bang for the buck than any of the other devices on my panel. Of
course I don't know how many times my transponder has warned someone there is
a very tiny airplane there even though your eyes don't see me.
Bernie Kerr, 6A airplane down for paint and I'm down with serious reaction
from sanding Deft epoxy primer that was painted 1-3 years ago :>(
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Working RV6A N92LP |
In a message dated 9/17/00 9:16:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
j_arnold(at)swbell.net writes:
> I am an air traffic controller
> at Fort Worth Center. I was working an experimental aircraft N92LP. I asked
> him what it was and he replied that it was an RV6A.
Hi,
When ATC asked you what type experimental and I say RV6, they say what is its
assigned designation. I call St Pete FSS and he said "it is RV6". Can you
shed some light on this subjectD?
TIA
Bernie Kerr, 6A, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Imfairings(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Filler over primer? |
Randy,
Use a product called Evercoat, part # 100400, could be 400100, it is a
composite body filler, or a thinner version of the same brand name that is
for pin holes. I dont have the number for it. Evercoat is available at most
auto parts stores.
Bob
Fairings Etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "J.Arnold" <j_arnold(at)swbell.net> |
Subject: | Working RV6A N92LP |
Sorry,
I am not sure what question you are asking. Our computer will only accept
certain types of aircraft identifiers and for any experimental it is EXP/A
or I or whatever type nav/mode c equipment you might have. The fellow called
us stating" This is experimental N92LP 10 mile north of DUA requesting
advisories to FSM. Since I have been researching building my own that is why
I asked him what type he was. Quite a few controllers really don't care what
type your are just how well you present yourself in your speach and such. I
can't tell you what difference it makes to a controller when you hear a VFR
pilot who obviously sounds like he knows what the heck he is doing.
Sorry if I rambled on, if I still didn't answer your question just let me
know and I will try again.
James Arnold (ATC) hopefully future RV9A owner
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: Working RV6A N92LP |
Rv660wm(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 9/17/00 9:16:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> j_arnold(at)swbell.net writes:
>
> > I am an air traffic controller
> > at Fort Worth Center. I was working an experimental aircraft N92LP. I asked
> > him what it was and he replied that it was an RV6A.
>
> Hi,
>
> When ATC asked you what type experimental and I say RV6, they say what is its
> assigned designation. I call St Pete FSS and he said "it is RV6". Can you
> shed some light on this subjectD?
>
> TIA
> Bernie Kerr, 6A, SE Fla
>
Bernie I am not a controller but I do know that the RV series
airplanes have been assigned the designations that they are
For example RV-4 RV-6 etc. This was done probably 3 years
ago. The other thing they are probably wanting to know is if
it is a "single engine land" etc.
JSpringer
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RE: Landing gear and wheel installation |
From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
Just in the process of installing my wheels to my landing gear. There's
one
thing that is confusing me. I don't have access to part numbers right
now
so I will try to explain. The axle on the landing gear comes with a
flange
that the Cleavland brake mounts to. An Allen head bolt goes through this
flange and through the axle and is secured with a nut. Only it appears
that
this allen head bolt is too long. The shank sticks out quite a bit
leaving
the threaded portion quite a bit above the axle. The plans just say to
put
a nut on it but the nut won't contact the axle. Does that make sense?
Anybody got any advice (or opinions?)
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
A revision was written on this a short time ago (while the RV-9A proto
was being final assembled; see, we try and keep double checking drawings
and construction manual info).
Use 1 or 2 AN960 washers under the socket head of the bolt to space the
bolt so that shank is through the whole assembly. Then use washer(s) as
required at the nut end to prevent the nut from bottoming out on the bolt
shank.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | To blister or not? |
Gang,
I need to decide whether or not to put a bubble in my cowling to provide
more alternator pulley clearance. With the shortest belt possible now
installed and snug (B&C L40 pushed up and almost touching prop gov oil
line), I have 3/4" vertical clearance (if the engine were to move directly
down) and 1/2" directly from the pulley edge to the inside cowl surface
(which would require the cowl to move back... unlikely?). The engine mount
will probably sag 3/16" at that radius, and belt may stretch a bit.
Is this enough, or should I put one of those unsightly blisters in the cowl
now BEFORE I paint? I hate these agonizing decisions.
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, N558RL, cowling
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: RV building injuries? |
are, i use a pneumatic just be careful. i would say a bee sting would hurt
much much more than any injury i have thus far.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Re: Still stuck on priming |
Bob;
If you want real corrosion protection, then do it the long, hard way: acid
etch, alodine, epoxy prime. The stuff on the quick builds is not a moisture
barrier. I'm spraying epoxy primer over the wash primer after going over it
with a scotchbrite pad and alcohol, which removes it. My entire interior,
from firewall to tailpost, will be primed with epoxy. A lot of work, but I
sleep better at night (probably because I'm so tired). However, if you live
in Phoenix . . . .
Mike Robbins
RV8Q finish painting the interior this week
Seattle area
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Waalkes <waalkes(at)netnitco.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2000 9:16 PM
Subject: RV-List: Still stuck on priming
>
> I'm trying to decide on the best priming route and I realize there are
many
> options and opinions, based on what I've found in the archives. BUT, I am
> building the RV-8 Quickbuild and would prefer to use a 2 part epoxy
system.
> I understand that the quickbuilds come with Sherwin Williams R60 G2 wash
> primer. Is there a problem mixing the two systems? How much internal
> priming is left to do on the quickbuild? OR, no big deal, just pick one
and
> continue building?
>
> Bob Waalkes
> RV-8 QB - Emp - Priming Confusion
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Still stuck on priming |
mike mike mike, whatever as they say. yes i started out doing the three stage
stuff, but after i calculated weight and time, i decided to stop that. i
would like for you to know that some of us fat boys with lots of gear are
sometimes over the load limit.
now i thought out u r way in az that u would never have to worry about
needing corrosive protection?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Still stuck on priming |
when i started building, guys that were in the process of finishing kept
telling me to BUILD and not spend a lot of time on corrosive protection.
at the time i did not understand that but now i do. just like when we were
teenagers, get it?? that's the nice thing about building u r own, u can do
whatever u want. just watch the weight limit. bob in ark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Still stuck on priming |
one question, if the wash is not a moisture barrier, WHY THEY SPENDING MONEY
AND TIME DOING IT???
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
Subject: | Re: RV building injuries? |
Are Barstad wrote:
> Anyone been injured while building? (No, I'm not a lawyer!)
>
> I'm always worried about the pneumatic squeezer and wonder what my index
> finger would look like with a 3000 lb dimple in it. Well, hopefully I'll
> never find out.
>
> I grabbed a kwik sidegrip from my cleco pliers without
> releasing the pressure first. It pinched me in the fingers just enough to
> leave on of those big red blood blisters - ouch! Those things have a STRONG
> GRIPS!!!
Been there, done that!
Worst injury (so far!) was when I was cutting some 1/8" al sheet with my
jig-saw. The blade jammed momentarily, then leapt clear of the metal and
landed on my right thumbnail, then bounced off again. I knew right away
that I might have done serious damage. It was a couple of seconds before
I could look. Phew! My thumb was still attached! But it took several
weeks to heal over, and I still have a numbish point on the end of that
thumb. Part of the treatment involved liquid nitrogen to get rid of some
granular tissue that was growing in the wrong direction. That was the
worst pain I've ever felt.
People, be careful out there!
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
Subject: | Re: Trying to access Bunny's web site...no joy... |
John Lawson wrote:
> I've been trying to get to Frank van der Hulst's web site for his RV-6 building
guide and I
> keep getting a "server not responding" message. I'm using the link on Van's
web
> site...Frank (if you're 'up' on the list) or anyone...is the Van's link correct?
Anyone
> else having problems getting to the site?
Yes, I'm here. I had planned to post a notice to the list once I'd
completed shifting things around. However, Web sites are like
airplanes... they take more time than you expect! So here's a summary of
what's going on...
I've swiched ISPs, so my pages which were at ihug.co.nz probably aren't
there anymore. I also keept a copy at http://members.xoom.com/frankv --
they *should* still be there. I just tried that page, and got "Host not
responding". I suspect that's the same one you were trying, and that
Xoom is having some problems. By the time I finished typing this message
Xoom was back up.
As well, my pages are hosted at my workplace.
http://gringo.whanganui.ac.nz/personal/frankv/rv/bunny/index.html should
find them there. Of course, that's a bit of a mouthful, so (as someone
else mentioned) I use a free redirection service and
http://fly.to/bunnysguide takes you to the same place.
Anyone who has links pointing to my old ihug.co.nz site, please change
them to the fly.to address.
I keep the content at the two sites the same, but folks living in the US
(and points further afield from New Zealand) *may* prefer to get the
Guide from Xoom... it should be a bit faster (when its up and
runnning!).
Incidentally, in the process of moving to my new site, I've rearranged
the menu system a little. Hopefully it's a little faster to load and a
little easier to navigate.
Van's link points to http://members.xoom.com/frankv/homebilt.htm -- this
is correct at the moment, although later it may change.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "<Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com> |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Mon,
18 Sep 2000 07:55:52.-0400(at)matronics.com
Subject: | Re: RV building injuries? |
18 Sep 2000 07:55:52.-0400(at)matronics.com
Are, in six years I have never been hurt while building. I did however manage to
drill through Jim Streits palm AND thumb within 10 minutes this weekend. It was
all on one skin too so I'm thinking I might have some sort of new RV record
here. That Jim (fellow lister) is pretty tough, he never even made a squeak when
I drilled him. For some reason we couldn't get the bleeding stopped, the tough
guy act went right out the door when I had to countersink the holes and install
pop rivets to stop the bleeding. I don't mean to sound callous but that damn Jim
got some blood on my nice clean aluminum, I've got to tell ya I'm a little
concerned that it will eventually BLEED through the top coat.
Its a good thing I have the patience of a saint. Jim is OK too and I'm going
home at lunch to unclecoe him from my fuselage.
Eric Henson
Top skins on, looking for building helpers
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
"'Daniel Estrada F.'"
Buenos dias amigo,
I drilled those pilot holes by mistake, too. Years later I mounted that
horizontal stabilizer on the airplane and found the holes were in the right
place. Keep building.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A mounting battery in the battery box
-----Original Message-----
I have pilot drilled a pair of holes in the HS-614..I forgot not to drill
thos holes like the plans instruction sais...Is it really important no to
drills this holes at this time ? Do I need to request from vans another
HS-614?
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV building injuries? |
My dumb play injury was cutting a pinky including the nerves and partially
severing the tendons with a peice of flying aluminum. I live at a residential
airpark and had an aluminum sheet laying flat on my old golf cart and it was
blowing like rip. Thought maybe I should tie it down and promptly dismissed
it, thinking I can hold it down with one hand. After doing something else,
came back to cart, jumped on and drove off. The sheet was cart wheeling off
the rear and tried to stop it by grabbing the edge. It grabbed me instead and
would not let go as it was digging into my pinky so my hand was sliding up
the edge and finally pulled out.
Bernie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
Subject: | Re: Working RV6A N92LP |
What are some of the do's and don'ts from your perspective, that VFR pilots
should and should not do when requesting flight following? I have never
used it, but am planning a long cross country very soon. Thanks.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (53 hours)
----- Original Message -----
From: J.Arnold <j_arnold(at)swbell.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2000 8:07 PM
Subject: RV-List: Working RV6A N92LP
>
> I know you probably dont care about this but I am an air traffic
controller
> at Fort Worth Center. I was working an experimental aircraft N92LP. I
asked
> him what it was and he replied that it was an RV6A. It has a Lycoming 360
> and was doing about 155 knots ground speed. He said it took him right at 2
> years to build.
> If N92LP happens to read this message, it was a pleasure working you VFR
and
> providing you advisories. You were very professional in talking to ATC and
> that is a joy when it comes to working VFR aircraft who want advisories.
>
>
> James Arnold
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Mounting Garmin 195 |
In a message dated 9/17/00 11:40:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dburton(at)foxinternet.net writes:
> Hi Bernie
>
> How did you mount your 195? Any glare/visibility issues I should think
> about?
>
> Thanks,
> Dave Burton
> near Seattle
> RV6A
Hi Dave,
I mounted mine just to the right of the radio stack on an aluminum frame that
I made up. It is mounted so that the face is basically perpendicular to my
eyeball in both planes. i.e. tilted up slightly and rotated over toward me.
This position lets you hold on the edge of the 195 which can help you finger
the correct buttons in turbulence. Direct sun actually makes the screen
clearer. It is when you get it reflecting off the screen at a low angle that
makes it difficult to read. I have had to remove my polaroids on occasions to
be able to it when this happens.
If I were doing my glare shield today, I would make it extend further aft
than the 2 inches that it is not to keep the sun off the instruments, but to
keep the instruments from reflecting back from the canopy just in your
horizontal line of sight. I would encourage you to put a peice of al. tube on
the rear edge as a safety device in case of a sudden "stoppage of forward
motion " Just split the tube on one side and epoxy it to the glareshield
edge.
Bernie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Tip for Drilling Stiffeners |
Sorry to bore the old-timers out there that have been through this already
but for the new guys like me I came across a procedure that helped get that
last hole drilled toward the trailing edge of the elevator stiffeners. For
the rudder stiffener, which was pre-drilled it was easy to drill through the
skin. But for the un-drilled elevator skin, it was necessary to drill from
the inside. After all the stiffeners (except last trailing edge one) are
drilled and clecoed to your bench, open the skin as much as possible without
distorting it. Then use a 12" number 40 drill (#41 if you have one) and
bend it enough to let your drill clear the skin, it works slick.
Jack Textor
Des Moines, IA
RV8 elevators
Looking for a wing kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Working RV6A N92LP |
From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
I thought I would chime in here. We just had this discussion on the
Musketeer list. First, and I didn't realize this, is you don't have be on a
VFR flight plan. You just call ATC or approach/departure and state your
intentions/information/position/altitude and request flight following. Then
you get an extra set of eyes out there and also some traffic advisories. It
is also good because they know who/what you are and generally what you are
doing.
It is a great service.
--
Shelby Smith
shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
N95EB - reserved
----------
>From: "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
>To: , "J.Arnold"
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Working RV6A N92LP
>Date: Mon, Sep 18, 2000, 9:23 AM
>
> What are some of the do's and don'ts from your perspective, that VFR pilots
> should and should not do when requesting flight following? I have never
> used it, but am planning a long cross country very soon. Thanks.
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G
> RV-6 (53 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Instrument Lighting |
Am currently designing instrument panel for RV-8. Question:
Is the internal lighting available with instruments adequete ?
Why would one use "light posts" around the instruments ?
Tom Diede
RV-8 canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Instrument Lighting |
--- Tdiede(at)AOL.COM wrote:
> Is the internal lighting available with instruments adequete ?
Generally - depends on the instrument/manufacturer. I've flown with
instruments that positively glowed, and others in the same panel could
barely be seen.
> Why would one use "light posts" around the instruments ?
When you price instruments you will find the internally-lit stuff to be
more expensive. For the relatively small amount of time you will need
panel lighting (in this class of ship), unlit instruments and external
lighting (posts, eyebrow, etc.) will suffice and save $$.
IMHO.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: intrument panel depth |
From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Tom:
I have a Century I a/p, a Slaved DG that I cut holes in the 668 for. I
cut one for the AI that didn't go through for the plumbing lines. I added
a .062 3/4x3/4 angle at the bottom for added strength.
My radios all go throught the 668 also.
Don Jordan -- 6A finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
writes:
>
> This is probably a dumb question, but -
>
> The RV-6 drawings show 6" between the instrument panel (f603) and
> the
> subpanel (F668). Many instruments are longer than 6". How does one
> accommodate the longer instruments? Move the instrument panel
> forward or
> cut holes in the f668?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6160hp(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Please explain plain english AD? |
Listers,
I have gotten this AD and I have the 0320 H2AD.....so I read the thing and I thought
they are talking about the oil filter gasketing system...then I see talk
about the big dual mag...So I know there are many who are dying to ask the simple
question...what does this AD mean and how exactly do you comply?
Some one care to put in plain....novice/beginner mechanic of aircraft engine...
where exactly this gasket? lies and how the replacemetn of it is precieved to
go.......
Thanks
SEE YOU AT KFZY RV FORUM 9/30/2000!!!!
David Mc.
N58DM
85+ hours
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | West Systems: Corrosive? |
I've heard many good things said on the list about West System epoxy. I'm
about to order some for canopy and gear fairings, but had a red light go on
when I opened the Aircraft Spruce catalog and saw a big caution sign
indicating that this stuff is corrosive.
Should I be worried about applying it next to my beautiful aluminum
airframe?
George Kilishek
RV-8 N888GK (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6160hp(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | 9/30/2000 OSWEGO NY RV FORUM and FLY-IN |
6th Annual Northeast RV Forum
September 30 - October 1, 2000
Oswego County Airport Fulton NY
KFZY
Just a Quick note on the RV-List inviting people to the RV-Forum and
Fly-in.
Link our web site:
http://www.web-flight.com/486/eaarvforum.htm
<http://www.web-flight.com/486/eaarvforum.htm>
Please pre-registered so our hand outs and food counts are more accurate.
As in the past got lots of things planned.
Hope to see you there
Respectfully
David McManmon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
Subject: | Re: Instrument Lighting |
Tom,
I have a RV-6 with both post lights and internally lit instruments. I have
United flight instruments and Rochester engine instruments with internal
lighting kits. Folks use post lights for several reasons. One, they are
cheaper than the internal lighting options for some instruments. Check the
prices for lit gyro instruments. Also, some instruments don't have internal
light kits. Another reason to use them is they often provide better
lighting than the internal option. For me, the post lights on my gyro
instruments are much better than the internals on any of the other
instruments. You can go to http://members.iquest.net/~rpflanze for a
picture of my panel. A drawback to the posts is that they stick out so that
you catch things on them and they are there for you to hit with some tender
parts of your body should you be in an accident.
To be honest, if I were to do it over again, I'd forgo the internal lights
and the post lights and go with a couple of external lights directed to
shine on the instrument panel. For one, the wiring gets very ugly behind
the panel. You have an extra two wires coming from every instrument and
finding places to terminate them and join them up to the rheostat circuit
makes for a complicated array of wires back behind the panel. It's not
difficult, just a lot of wires to keep track of. Unless the instrument if
pointed right at you, at night you tend to see the light behind the
instrument rather than the instrument face itself. This is a problem for
the -6, maybe not so for the -8.
Having been there and de-bugged the circuit several times already, I'd
follow the KISS theory. If I ever make a major change to my panel,
those lights (and all the wiring that goes with it) are coming out.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (53 hours)
>
> Am currently designing instrument panel for RV-8. Question:
>
> Is the internal lighting available with instruments adequate ?
> Why would one use "light posts" around the instruments ?
>
> Tom Diede
> RV-8 canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Subject: | RV building injuries? |
"Van Artsdalen, Scott"
Drilled into my index finger. Have a nice round scar now. Ouch.
-----Original Message-----
From: Frank and Dorothy
Sent: 9/17/00 11:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV building injuries?
Are Barstad wrote:
> Anyone been injured while building? (No, I'm not a lawyer!)
>
> I'm always worried about the pneumatic squeezer and wonder what my
index
> finger would look like with a 3000 lb dimple in it. Well, hopefully
I'll
> never find out.
>
> I grabbed a kwik sidegrip from my cleco pliers without
> releasing the pressure first. It pinched me in the fingers just enough
to
> leave on of those big red blood blisters - ouch! Those things have a
STRONG
> GRIPS!!!
Been there, done that!
Worst injury (so far!) was when I was cutting some 1/8" al sheet with my
jig-saw. The blade jammed momentarily, then leapt clear of the metal and
landed on my right thumbnail, then bounced off again. I knew right away
that I might have done serious damage. It was a couple of seconds before
I could look. Phew! My thumb was still attached! But it took several
weeks to heal over, and I still have a numbish point on the end of that
thumb. Part of the treatment involved liquid nitrogen to get rid of some
granular tissue that was growing in the wrong direction. That was the
worst pain I've ever felt.
People, be careful out there!
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Flight Following (was: Working RV6A N92LP) |
It's a great service. I use it whenever possible. As mentioned earlier, using
your best, professional pilot voice helps. Sometimes I don't get a real
handoff, just "radar services terminiated, sqwauk VFR, bye". In these cases, I
ask for another another frequency for Center or whoever so I can continue
flight following. It's a good tool.
Larry,
RV-8: jiggin' fuse
--- "Randy J. Pflanzer" wrote:
>
> What are some of the do's and don'ts from your perspective, that VFR pilots
> should and should not do when requesting flight following? I have never
> used it, but am planning a long cross country very soon. Thanks.
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G
> RV-6 (53 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Subject: | Bulkhead drain holes |
David,
I did not put drain holes in my RV when I built it.
Some of you might remember my oil cooler failure where I dumped 5 quarts of oil
out of airplane. (Short story was the Setrab cooler failed, why isn't clear).
Oil migrated everywhere. 3 days after I completely cleaned the airplane, it
was still dripping oil and running down the fuselage to the tailwheel. I pulled
the rear cabin bulkhead and was surprised that there was a lot of oil INSIDE
the tailcone. I had to solvent wash the tailcone to get it to stop dripping.
(I don't worry about corrosion in the aft fuse now). ;-)
When I washed out the tailcone, I was surprised how well the bulkheads created
dams for the solvent to puddle. I drilled 1/4" dia. holes just in front of the
bulkheads in the tailcones to provide drains.
What really caught my attention was the fact that the oil got sucked up into the
tailcone during the flight. I imagine that flying in heavy rain would do the
same thing. You MIGHT be able to collect enough water to be a CG issue. Then
again, maybe not.
I would recommend drain holes just for the warm fuzzy feeling they provide.
Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 95 hrs
O-360, Sensenich (83)
Simi Valley, SoCal
I am to the point of skinning fuselage and am wondering if it is necessary to put
drain holes in the bottom of bulkheads. If so at what exact location do the
holes need to be and what size? Are these holes really necessary?
Should I anticipate a collection of moisture in my fuselage?
Dave Ford
RV6 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Steve McCartney <rv3flyr(at)ATTGLOBAL.NET> |
Subject: | RV-6 fuselage jig |
If anyone needs an RV-6 fuselage jig, they can have mine for free.
Located at CMA. Private me at www.rv3flyr(at)attglobal.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John F. O'Brien" <moose(at)std.teradyne.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV6-List: RV-6 fuselage jig |
Steve,
I live in Westlake Village an would like the jig.
regards,
-john O'Brien
818.991.2139
Steve McCartney wrote:
> --> RV6-List message posted by: Steve McCartney
>
> If anyone needs an RV-6 fuselage jig, they can have mine for free.
> Located at CMA. Private me at www.rv3flyr(at)attglobal.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Side Bearings (F-6116) |
From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Tom:
Consider that your longerons are converging in at 3 degress. If you do
the math from the detail drawing,
the un-quoted demintion is 1 1/4 also. SO , They will go on ether side
untill you drill them, then they become a left & right part.
Don Jordan -- 6A finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
writes:
>
>
> List: Starting the Finish Kit on my RV6-A-QB and on Plans Page 43A
> I don't
> seem to see anywhere it tells you which direction to mount the
> F-6116 Rudder
> Pedal Bearings?
> There are 2 1" Holes in each bearing and one hole is
> slightly
> deeper. Does the bearing end with the deeper Hole go toward the
> firewall or
> toward the Pilot and passenger on the other side.
> Thanks Tom in Ohio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | to/from line for oil cooler |
From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
No. The oil cooler don't care. But , As GV pointed out , if it is mounted
vertically, You will want the input to go to the bottom to force any air
out to the engine.
Don Jordan -- 6A finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
>
> Is there a to and from line for the oil cooler, I bought mine from
> Van's and
> I can't do anything without directions.
> Blue Skies,
> Carey Mills
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "J.Arnold" <j_arnold(at)swbell.net> |
Subject: | How to talk to ATC my own version |
I can only give you my own perspective on what I like to hear in a VFR pilot
requesting advisories.
First off know where you are before you even call center, unless your lost
and you need assistance then
that falls into a whole different ballpark.
When you first call up know what your going to say before you start talking.
It may not seem like a long time
but 30-45 seconds of talking is a long time in ATC life.
Initial call by be like this...
Pilot...."Fort Worth Center N12MP"
Center " N12MP go ahead"
Pilot "Fort Center N12MP, C172/A, 10 north of ADM at 4500 feet enroute to
FSM requesting vfr advisories."
This tells me just about everything I need to know to get a track started on
you and get you an assigned
beacon code. You can say this in about 15 seconds and unless we are just too
busy we should give you advisories.
Now I won't tell you that all controllers are friendly and love VFR's
especially when you are working an arrival
or departure sector, but for the most part we don't mind giving advisories.
In my 19 year career I have actually
had issued traffic to a VFR I was working and turned him away from another
VFR that I was not talking to. He came
back a minute later and told me that if I hadn't turned him they would have
hit in mid air. So that made my day.
Anyway....if you have anymore questions just ask. I will do my best to help
anyone out with ATC stuff...from
an enroute perspective....now them Tower guys are just strange :))
Jimmy Arnold
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> |
Has anyone tried one of those new roto-zip tools to cut or trim aluminum?
How does it work? I am a new builder, took over an RV-4 project, seems like
the roto-zip would be a good investment. Any comments?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: GNS430 Owners... |
Kurt,
If you are just using the 430 as your sole source Nav then will just need
the dipole coupler for the GS/Nav antenna. I also have a 430 and that was
all that was needed.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: GNS430 Owners...
>Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 06:33:39 EDT
>
>
>For those who have installed a GNS430 in their panel.....I am planning on
>using a 14V GNS430 as my sole nav/gs source (output to a CDI)....my two
>questions are:
>
> 1. Is a seperate unit needed to change the CDI between NAV and GPS?
>
> 2. Do I need to purchase a Single Nav/Glideslope coupler if I am
>planning
>on using only one nav ant as a nav and GS ant? Or does the unit have one
>plug in the back for nav and GS?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kurt, OKC, OK
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: roto-zip tool |
Just borrowed a friends rotozip for doing my sheetrock in the shop. With the
right bit it might work for aluminum. I think it would probably be too heavy
though. A die grinder is probably the right answer. Most rental shops will
have the roto zip if you want to try it out before spending the big bucks on
your own tool.
Bob Moser
Finishing the shop and dreaming of an -8 tail
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
I read a post somewhere that a guy used one on aluminum and he said it was
slick. He did comment tho that he used a 1/2" bit and sprayed a lot of chips
so he would recommend using a smaller bit.
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of FK27Bob(at)AOL.COM
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 2:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: roto-zip tool
Just borrowed a friends rotozip for doing my sheetrock in the shop. With the
right bit it might work for aluminum. I think it would probably be too heavy
though. A die grinder is probably the right answer. Most rental shops will
have the roto zip if you want to try it out before spending the big bucks on
your own tool.
Bob Moser
Finishing the shop and dreaming of an -8 tail
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
Subject: | Re: roto-zip tool |
I tried it a few months ago with the idea of using it to cut the openings in
the leading edge wing skins for the landing and taxi lights. I didn't like
it at all. It was way to course and hard to control. I do remember that
others have liked it.
Terry
RV-8A #80729
wings
Original Message -----
From: Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com>
> Has anyone tried one of those new roto-zip tools to cut or trim aluminum?
> How does it work? I am a new builder, took over an RV-4 project, seems
like
> the roto-zip would be a good investment. Any comments?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rod Kimmell <rkimmell(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | For Sale: RV6 Empennage and Wing |
RV6 wing and empennage kit is for sale. Empennage 90% complete, Wing 20%
complete. Phlogistron spar, lots of extras. Located near Portland, Oregon.
Contact Rod Kimmell for further information:
503 985-0606
rkimmell(at)teleport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Morrissey, John" <John.Morrissey(at)its.csiro.au> |
"Morrissey, John"
OK I'll bite :-)
For us Aussies - what's a roto-zip tool??
John Morrissey
Workin on the RV4 fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Hawkins [mailto:lhawkins(at)giant.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 7:31 AM
Subject: RV-List: roto-zip tool
Has anyone tried one of those new roto-zip tools to cut or trim aluminum?
How does it work? I am a new builder, took over an RV-4 project, seems like
the roto-zip would be a good investment. Any comments?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
"'Larry Hawkins'"@matronics.com
I tried one on my fwd aft rear skin for the rear window cut out. It worked
ok but left a little of a rough edge.
I have the tool, used once, for sale for $50 still in original box.
My daughter bought me the deluxe ROTO ZIP tool set with carrying case
for my Birthday. I didn't have the heart to tell her I already had one!
Contact me at edwardmcole(at)home.com or reply to this address.
Ed Cole
Maxim Integrated Products
Bldg. 120 Ext. 6605
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Hawkins [SMTP:lhawkins(at)giant.com]
> Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 1:31 PM
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com '
> Subject: RV-List: roto-zip tool
>
>
> Has anyone tried one of those new roto-zip tools to cut or trim aluminum?
> How does it work? I am a new builder, took over an RV-4 project, seems
> like
> the roto-zip would be a good investment. Any comments?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: How to talk to ATC my own version |
From: | Scott.Fink(at)microchip.com |
09/18/2000 04:23:34 PM
Jimmy,
I have always said "Flight following" is it "corrector" to ask for "vfr
advisories"? They have always understood what I mean, and have always said
when handing off: "for further flight following contact..." has something
changed, or is it a regional thing?
Scott Fink
Initial call by be like this...
Pilot...."Fort Worth Center N12MP"
Center " N12MP go ahead"
Pilot "Fort Center N12MP, C172/A, 10 north of ADM at 4500 feet enroute to
FSM requesting vfr advisories."
Jimmy Arnold
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Firewall Insulaton Flammability |
Today we were cutting insulation for the cabin side of the firewall. I had
ordered part number QP-3200 from Wicks. The catalog says "FAA approved for
installation in light aircraft".
I made a flammability test of the QP-3200 by holding a fine-tip propane
torch to the aluminum foil side of a three square-inch piece of insulation.
Within about three seconds the felt-like material burst into a hot flame
which then continued to burn with the torch removed until the material was
nearly consumed. Thick black acrid smoke poured from the burning insulation.
Within minutes I had to open the doors of the 49,000 cubic feet hangar as
the smell was overpowering. I cant imagine surviving several hundred square
inches of this stuff burning in the confines of the RV cabin.
My building helper thought that the test was not realistic because the
felt-like material received oxygen from the edges, which would be somewhat
sealed in the actual installation in the plane. I concede that the test
conditions did not simulate the cabin/firewall environment, but all the
thick, acrid smoke sure scared me.
I would like to know what other builders are using and what flammability
testing has revealed. Id also appreciate references to applicable
flammability test methods.
I dont believe the stuff I bought belongs in an airplane, but I am open to
discussion.
Dennis Persyk N600DP 6A O360A1A/Hartzell 0.0 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David & Betty Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
Subject: | Re: For Sale: RV6 Empennage and Wing |
David & Betty Burton
Hi Rod,
Any tools for sale? I have most of what I need, but am looking for a few
more things.
Dave Burton
RV6 near Seattle
Rod Kimmell wrote:
>
> RV6 wing and empennage kit is for sale. Empennage 90% complete, Wing 20%
> complete. Phlogistron spar, lots of extras. Located near Portland, Oregon.
>
> Contact Rod Kimmell for further information:
> 503 985-0606
> rkimmell(at)teleport.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | tank rib flute question |
hey guys, when i flute the tank ribs (first of the tips) i still have not be
able to get the warp out of the rib. when i lay it down on bench with just
slight pressure it is straight. when i let go it returns to the warp
position (oil cans back to...). i can not tell much difference in the ones i
have fluted and ones i have not. it seems like the ones i have fluted takes
less pressure to straighten. i have fluted main ribs and yes i am aware of
what an over fluted rib looks like. is this the nature of the beast?
suggestions??? bob in arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
"Dennis Persyk"
Subject: | Re: Firewall Insulaton Flammability |
I used Orkotek strip blanket to insulate my firewall. Seems to do a
good job of insulating. I tested it before installing: flame applied to
the either the blanket insulation or the Orcotape OT-16 self
extinguished with minimal smoke. Good stuff. But the tape isn't cheap.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Instrument Lighting |
Just a thought - how extravagant to make the lighting might depend on how
much night flying you plan to do.
I plan floodlighting and flying very little at night, mostly before actual
night (during 'civil twolight'). For planned night flying I will be filing
IFR. I always have flight following.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles L. Cotton" <charles(at)cottonfamily.com> |
"Charles L. Cotton"
I am ordering tools, getting the shop ready, etc and plan to order an RV-9A
empennage kit soon. My "shop" is a three car garage and I plan to operate
in one bay, until the project either forces the cars out, or gets moved to
the airport. From what I've seen, I may be able to get further into the
project than my wife thinks, before it will outgrow the one bay. (I have a
lot of room in this garage and it has a very good work area away from the cars.
I've seen a moveable fuselage stand made from some type of engine stand,
but I can't recall where ( it may have been on Sam's web page). (But
that's a problem for later.) Here's my question - does anyone know if the
empennage/wing jig can be made of metal such that it will be moveable,
without damaging the part? If I could use a moveable jig, I could
actually keep all three cars in the garage at night, and I'm sure number
two son would be much happier. (Rank does have its
privileges.) Obviously, I'm more concerned with being able to keep
everything "level and plumb."
Opinions please.
Thanks,
Chas.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Edward Cole" <edwardmcole(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: To blister or not? |
Don't forget to allow for the cowling moving aft at high speed. I have a
friend with an RV6A
that wore a hole through the cowl in short order in flight. He had to remove
the cowl, add a blister
and repaint at less that 40 hrs.
Ed Cole
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV-8.com-RL" <randy@rv-8.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2000 8:09 PM
Subject: RV-List: To blister or not?
>
> Gang,
>
> I need to decide whether or not to put a bubble in my cowling to provide
> more alternator pulley clearance. With the shortest belt possible now
> installed and snug (B&C L40 pushed up and almost touching prop gov oil
> line), I have 3/4" vertical clearance (if the engine were to move directly
> down) and 1/2" directly from the pulley edge to the inside cowl surface
> (which would require the cowl to move back... unlikely?). The engine mount
> will probably sag 3/16" at that radius, and belt may stretch a bit.
>
> Is this enough, or should I put one of those unsightly blisters in the
cowl
> now BEFORE I paint? I hate these agonizing decisions.
>
> Thanks,
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, N558RL, cowling
> www.rv-8.com
> Home Wing VAF
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
Subject: | Best Advice You Ever Received... |
RV-List Digest Server
A question to List members...what's the best advice you've ever received about
building your RV?
I'd have to say...besides the encouragement I've received from List members...two
pieces of
advice that stick out in my mind pertain to tools. James Clark (of the RV Factory
in Columbia,
SC) told me to buy a Sioux pneumatic drill...very comfortable to hold, durable,
and well-made.
He was right on target (thanks, James!). The other...after reading List comments
about pneumatic
squeezers, I bought a used one (thanks, Fred Kunkel!), and my only regret is that
I didn't buy it
when I was doing my horizontal and vertical stabilizers...I'd have saved myself
some time and
some verrrrry tired hands!
Semper Fi
John
RV-6 (VS and HS finished...plugging away at the control surfaces...wing kit staring
me in the
face from the garage floor...)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: tank rib flute question |
-----Original Message-----
From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Monday, September 18, 2000 7:09 PM
Subject: RV-List: tank rib flute question
>
>hey guys, when i flute the tank ribs (first of the tips) i still have not
be
>able to get the warp out of the rib. when i lay it down on bench with just
>slight pressure it is straight. when i let go it returns to the warp
>position (oil cans back to...). i can not tell much difference in the ones
i
>have fluted and ones i have not. it seems like the ones i have fluted takes
>less pressure to straighten. i have fluted main ribs and yes i am aware of
>what an over fluted rib looks like. is this the nature of the beast?
>suggestions??? bob in arkansas
>
I had the same problem, Bob. An experienced builder explained to me that
fluting is done to make the edge of the flange straight, so the line of
rivets down the center of the flange will be a straight line. When you have
achieved this condition, you are done. If by chance the web is now planar,
great, but if it is concave or convex, don't worry -- the rib and the plane
don't care and neither should the builder! Hope this helps.
Dennis Persyk N600DP 6A O360A1A/Hartzell
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Firewall Insulaton Flammability |
>
>Today we were cutting insulation for the cabin side of the firewall. I had
>ordered part number QP-3200 from Wicks. The catalog says "FAA approved for
>installation in light aircraft".
>
>I made a flammability test of the QP-3200 by holding a fine-tip propane
>torch to the aluminum foil side of a three square-inch piece of insulation.
>Within about three seconds the felt-like material burst into a hot flame
>which then continued to burn with the torch removed until the material was
>nearly consumed. Thick black acrid smoke poured from the burning insulation.
>Within minutes I had to open the doors of the 49,000 cubic feet hangar as
>the smell was overpowering. I cant imagine surviving several hundred square
>inches of this stuff burning in the confines of the RV cabin.
>
>My building helper thought that the test was not realistic because the
>felt-like material received oxygen from the edges, which would be somewhat
>sealed in the actual installation in the plane. I concede that the test
>conditions did not simulate the cabin/firewall environment, but all the
>thick, acrid smoke sure scared me.
>
>I would like to know what other builders are using and what flammability
>testing has revealed. Id also appreciate references to applicable
>flammability test methods.
>
>I dont believe the stuff I bought belongs in an airplane, but I am open to
>discussion.
>
>Dennis Persyk N600DP 6A O360A1A/Hartzell 0.0 hours
>
>Hampshire, IL C38
>
Dennis,
I'm no expert in this area, but I can point you to lots of info. I
certainly wouldn't be comfortable with the material you described in
my aircraft.
First, a few definitions, from FAR 1:
"Fireproof"--
(1) With respect to materials and parts used to confine fire in a
designated fire zone, means the capacity to withstand at least as
well as steel in dimensions appropriate for the purpose for which
they are used, the heat produced when there is a severe fire of
extended duration in that zone; and
(2) With respect to other materials and parts, means the capacity to
withstand the heat associated with fire at least as well as steel in
dimensions appropriate for the purpose for which they are used.
"Fire resistant"--
(1) With respect to sheet or structural members means the capacity to
withstand the heat associated with fire at least as well as aluminum
alloy in dimensions appropriate for the purpose for which they are
used; and
(2) With respect to fluid-carrying lines, fluid system parts, wiring,
air ducts, fittings, and powerplant controls, means the capacity to
perform the intended functions under the heat and other conditions
likely to occur when there is a fire at the place concerned.
"Flame resistant" means not susceptible to combustion to the point of
propagating a flame, beyond safe limits, after the ignition source is
removed.
"Flammable", with respect to a fluid or gas, means susceptible to
igniting readily or to exploding.
"Flash resistant" means not susceptible to burning violently when ignited.
Now for the requirements - I'll point you to info for FAR 25
aircraft, because that is where the standards are the highest.
I would say that the cockpit would be equivalent to a cabin interior.
The requirements for cabin interiors is in FAR 25.853. It is
available from http://www.landings.com/, in the Regulations section.
The following link might work:
http://www3.landings.com/cgi-bin/get_file?pass=12345&FAR/part_25/section_25.853.html
FAR 25.853 refers to FAR 25 Appendix F, which has detailed procedures
for testing materials. The following link might work:
http://www3.landings.com/cgi-bin/get_file?pass=12345&FAR/part_25/appendix_F.html
FAR 25 Appendix F on Landings.com is missing some figures. You might
be able to find the complete document on the FAA website.
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.nbci.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: tank rib flute question |
--- Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM wrote:
> i have fluted main ribs and yes i am aware of
> what an over fluted rib looks like. is this the nature of the beast?
> suggestions??? bob in arkansas
If I recall correctly the tank ribs are much stiffer than the other
leading edge ribs, expecially the end ribs.
Could just require more fluting than you are used to.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Rreserved)
Fuselage
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott <acepilot(at)win.bright.net> |
Subject: | Re: How to talk to ATC my own version |
Will this work in my case, a Corben with no electrical system or
transponder? I tried calling Duluth tower this weekend for some flight
following over some rough looking swamp but they didn't hear me, so I
was just praying the GPS kept working ;) Didn't want to go up higher as
it was rather cool in the open cockpit this weekend ;)
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
"J.Arnold" wrote:
>
>
> I can only give you my own perspective on what I like to hear in a VFR pilot
> requesting advisories.
> First off know where you are before you even call center, unless your lost
> and you need assistance then
> that falls into a whole different ballpark.
>
> When you first call up know what your going to say before you start talking.
> It may not seem like a long time
> but 30-45 seconds of talking is a long time in ATC life.
>
> Initial call by be like this...
>
> Pilot...."Fort Worth Center N12MP"
> Center " N12MP go ahead"
> Pilot "Fort Center N12MP, C172/A, 10 north of ADM at 4500 feet enroute to
> FSM requesting vfr advisories."
>
> This tells me just about everything I need to know to get a track started on
> you and get you an assigned
> beacon code. You can say this in about 15 seconds and unless we are just too
> busy we should give you advisories.
> Now I won't tell you that all controllers are friendly and love VFR's
> especially when you are working an arrival
> or departure sector, but for the most part we don't mind giving advisories.
> In my 19 year career I have actually
> had issued traffic to a VFR I was working and turned him away from another
> VFR that I was not talking to. He came
> back a minute later and told me that if I hadn't turned him they would have
> hit in mid air. So that made my day.
>
> Anyway....if you have anymore questions just ask. I will do my best to help
> anyone out with ATC stuff...from
> an enroute perspective....now them Tower guys are just strange :))
>
> Jimmy Arnold
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Daniel Estrada F." <dani_estrada(at)infosel.net.mx> |
Subject: | Re: Mexico builder |
"Daniel Estrada F."
Thanks to all that guys who answered my questions..you are very kind.
Specially to Don Jordan for being so specific in your coments.
Don, Here in mexico there are just 4 or 5 builders of an RV and the Only
thing I have to do to get the permission to build an experimental is:
1.-Go to the DGAC (Civil Aeronautilcal General Direction) office and fill
out a paper whith all the things they want to know, give them a copy of the
plans and instruction.
2.-They study the project and may be in 15 days you get you permit.
Thanks again
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Re: Still stuck on priming |
Bob;
First off I'm 145 lbs., so I have some weight margin to play with. Second,
I don't live in AZ, but in wet , salty Seattle. Third, the reason they put
the wash primer on there is because it is fast and easy and is suppose to
satisfy people like me who want the parts primed before assembly. If they
did it the RIGHT way it would take forever and triple the price of a QB.
Fourth, I don't believe in the saying "just build it". There is more to it
than that. Nuff said.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q going to EPOXY prime the fuselage interior tomorrow.
SEATTLE area
DO NOT ARCHIEVE
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2000 10:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Still stuck on priming
>
> one question, if the wash is not a moisture barrier, WHY THEY SPENDING
MONEY
> AND TIME DOING IT???
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Aircraft Spruce electric gyros |
Concerning the Wultrad/Falcon gyros: I was told personally by Amy at Wultrad
that the gyros WOULD tumble and go bad if I did ANY aerobatics. That
convinced me. She also told me, "there are NO guarantees." Enough said.
Ed Storo RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
Subject: | Re: Best Advice You Ever Received... |
Ooops!!
Sorry I didn't show you the pneumatic squeezer and tell you about that as
well!!! ;-)
Hope all is well. And good to hear that progress is being made.
James
("RV Factory, Columbia, SC " Member of future to be "Palmetto Squadron" one
of these years)
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Lawson" <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 10:09 PM
Subject: RV-List: Best Advice You Ever Received...
>
> A question to List members...what's the best advice you've ever received
about building your RV?
>
> I'd have to say...besides the encouragement I've received from List
members...two pieces of
> advice that stick out in my mind pertain to tools. James Clark (of the RV
Factory in Columbia,
> SC) told me to buy a Sioux pneumatic drill...very comfortable to hold,
durable, and well-made.
> He was right on target (thanks, James!). The other...after reading List
comments about pneumatic
> squeezers, I bought a used one (thanks, Fred Kunkel!), and my only regret
is that I didn't buy it
> when I was doing my horizontal and vertical stabilizers...I'd have saved
myself some time and
> some verrrrry tired hands!
>
> Semper Fi
> John
> RV-6 (VS and HS finished...plugging away at the control surfaces...wing
kit staring me in the
> face from the garage floor...)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "J.Arnold" <j_arnold(at)swbell.net> |
Subject: | How to talk to ATC my own version |
Scott,
VFR advisories and flight are the same thing and any controller will treat
them as the same. I am used to hearing
VFR advisories and it lets me know right away that he is not wanting an IFR
clearance, but that is just me.
When an aircraft calls out of the blue, the first thing I do is write down
his call sign and start looking to see if he
has an IFR on file. If I hear VFR advisories or flight following then I wont
look and will just request a code from the
computer to issue to the pilot.
Just to let all of you know, for the most part if you call almost any
centers they will be glad to let you come over and look around and probably
let you plug in for an hour or so to let you get the "big picture".
If anyone in the DFW area wants to tour Fort Worth Center let me know and I
can work something out. I have just returned back to work after being gone
for a year for back surgery, so I am having to retrain, but in about a month
or so I would be glad to show some folks around. I would just request to
make it one person at a time so that you can at least plug in with me so I
can give you some personal time.
We also have another program where a large group of people, like an EAA
chapter, could come out and spend a Sat at the center and spend some time in
a classroom getting some advise from controllers then you get to come down
to the control room to plug and and listen to ATC for a bit.
Jimmy Arnold
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV8DRIVER(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: RV building injuries? |
Eric, give me a call on building help. Andy
P.S. I'll be out of town from Thurs to Sun.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "J.Arnold" <j_arnold(at)swbell.net> |
Subject: | How to talk to ATC my own version |
Rick,
I am not quite sure what your asking? At least part of the question I might
be able to help you with. If you are having problems with controllers
cancelling your advisories, you might "politely" ask them if there is any
way possible for them to hand you off to the next controller. Some of this
depends on the different computer equipment that we use. Centers and
approach controls have to have the computer software programmed to allow VFR
flight plans to pass between the different computer systems. If the software
does not allow the flight plans to pass automatically then more than likely
you will be terminated, squawk 1200 and told to contact the next controller
for advisories.
Even if the flight plans don't pass, you can usually tell by just listening
to the controller how busy he is. If he is even remotely busy, he will more
than likely terminate you and pass you on. If he does not sound busy then
you might politely ask him if he could hand you off to the next controller
if he is not too busy. Remember you catch more flies with honey than
vinegar:)
Sorry if I kind of ramble on. If I didn't answer your question clearly let
me know what else you need to know and I will try to clarify it to the best
of my ability.
Jimmy Arnold
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "J.Arnold" <j_arnold(at)swbell.net> |
Sorry that you got chewed out, but that happens. :)
I meant to tell everyone earlier that when you are getting advisories and/or
on an IFR flight plan, probably one of the single things thats upsets us is
when pilots don't listen when you are calling them. This happens with
general aviation and also with pro's like the airlines. Sometimes I have to
call someone 3 or 4 times before they will reply with an altitude assignment
or frequency change. That really gets me..sorry...that is my pet peave. I
may have 20-25 planes to keep track of and all I ask is for the pilot to
listen for his own call sign. OK, I am off my soap box now. :)
Jimmy Arnold
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Firewall Insulaton Flammability |
I did the same test with the foil backed stuff (from Vans) and had the same
reservations about it as a consequence. Also had some "Uniroyal Charcoal"
foam insulation that I got from Spruce, which I could heat cherry red with a
torch, and although it too gave off an oily black smoke, it wouldn't hold a
flame longer than a second or two after the flame source was removed. I went
with the Uniroyal Charcoal. It's quite a bit lighter too.
Unfortunately I don't see it in the current ACS catalog. Listing seems to be
replaced with "Uniroyal Ensolite" which is listed as 1/4" thick, whereas the
stuff I got was 1/2" thick. Who knows, that may be fine too.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~150 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
"'John Lawson'"@matronics.com
Subject: | Best Advice You Ever Received... |
The best advice I ever received was to do something on the project every
day. That way you always keep moving.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A
-----Original Message-----
A question to List members...what's the best advice you've ever received
about building your RV?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Peter laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: tank rib flute question |
Mike ,
sorry,
I meant this to go to Bob
Mike Thompson wrote:
>
>
> --- Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> > i have fluted main ribs and yes i am aware of
> > what an over fluted rib looks like. is this the nature of the beast?
> > suggestions??? bob in arkansas
>
> If I recall correctly the tank ribs are much stiffer than the other
> leading edge ribs, expecially the end ribs.
> Could just require more fluting than you are used to.
>
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Rreserved)
> Fuselage
>
> Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Peter laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: tank rib flute question |
Bob,
I have a set of left tank ribs if your intersted
pETER
Bobpaulo(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> hey guys, when i flute the tank ribs (first of the tips) i still have not be
> able to get the warp out of the rib. when i lay it down on bench with just
> slight pressure it is straight. when i let go it returns to the warp
> position (oil cans back to...). i can not tell much difference in the ones i
> have fluted and ones i have not. it seems like the ones i have fluted takes
> less pressure to straighten. i have fluted main ribs and yes i am aware of
> what an over fluted rib looks like. is this the nature of the beast?
> suggestions??? bob in arkansas
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: How to talk to ATC my own version |
I have to tell you controller guys that this has been a very informative
thread. Thanks for the input
Bill
-4 wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "J.Arnold" <j_arnold(at)swbell.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 12:34 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: How to talk to ATC my own version
>
>
> Rick,
>
> I am not quite sure what your asking? At least part of the question I
might
> be able to help you with. If you are having problems with controllers
> cancelling your advisories, you might "politely" ask them if there is any
> way possible for them to hand you off to the next controller. Some of this
> depends on the different computer equipment that we use. Centers and
> approach controls have to have the computer software programmed to allow
VFR
> flight plans to pass between the different computer systems. If the
software
> does not allow the flight plans to pass automatically then more than
likely
> you will be terminated, squawk 1200 and told to contact the next
controller
> for advisories.
> Even if the flight plans don't pass, you can usually tell by just
listening
> to the controller how busy he is. If he is even remotely busy, he will
more
> than likely terminate you and pass you on. If he does not sound busy then
> you might politely ask him if he could hand you off to the next controller
> if he is not too busy. Remember you catch more flies with honey than
> vinegar:)
>
> Sorry if I kind of ramble on. If I didn't answer your question clearly let
> me know what else you need to know and I will try to clarify it to the
best
> of my ability.
>
>
> Jimmy Arnold
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: RE: advisories |
--- "J.Arnold" wrote:
> I meant to tell everyone earlier that when you are getting advisories
> and/or
> on an IFR flight plan, probably one of the single things thats upsets
> us is
> when pilots don't listen when you are calling them.
One of the reasons I don't get flight following any more on my frequent
runs from GTU to Canyon Lake. Right now I'm renting while building,
and I just don't get tuned to the aircraft N number de jour.
I got my butt chewed after I finally responded to Approach - said he
had been calling me and to LISTEN UP!... words to that effect.
I know it's dumb, to trade the possible enhanced safety and having to
listen hard to the radio for the whole trip (all of 40 minutes) for
just winging it and keeping the ol' eyes out of the cockpit, but there
it is.
Guess I just don't need that on the radio. My fault entirely, though.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: Instrument Lighting |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>Am currently designing instrument panel for RV-8. Question:
>
>Is the internal lighting available with instruments adequete ?
>Why would one use "light posts" around the instruments ?
>
Internal lighting has always be quite adequate . . . so
adequate in fact that we've charge a whole lot of extra
dollars to fit a certified aircraft with all internally
lighted instruments. Post lights are also adquate but
a fully illuminated set of instruments can require a dozen
or more of the rather pricey little light fixtures.
Flood lighting (a-la Cessna 172) takes one or two lamps,
minimal wiring, draws very little current and installs
in a fraction of the time it takes to wire up a forest
of post lights.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Fred Kunkel <rvator(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: How to talk to ATC my own version |
Nice posts Jimmy. It's been my experience that controllers are much more
receptive to assisting you if you prefix your call with "Request", i.e., "Fort
Worth Center, N12MP Request". It's a polite way of getting people's attention
and a controller can get back to you as his/her priority workload dictates. May
be a different experience for others, but it's always worked well for me.
Blue Skies!
"J.Arnold" wrote:
>
> I can only give you my own perspective on what I like to hear in a VFR pilot
> requesting advisories.
> First off know where you are before you even call center, unless your lost
> and you need assistance then
> that falls into a whole different ballpark.
>
> When you first call up know what your going to say before you start talking.
> It may not seem like a long time
> but 30-45 seconds of talking is a long time in ATC life.
>
> Initial call by be like this...
>
> Pilot...."Fort Worth Center N12MP"
> Center " N12MP go ahead"
> Pilot "Fort Center N12MP, C172/A, 10 north of ADM at 4500 feet enroute to
> FSM requesting vfr advisories."
>
> This tells me just about everything I need to know to get a track started on
> you and get you an assigned
> beacon code. You can say this in about 15 seconds and unless we are just too
> busy we should give you advisories.
> Now I won't tell you that all controllers are friendly and love VFR's
> especially when you are working an arrival
> or departure sector, but for the most part we don't mind giving advisories.
> In my 19 year career I have actually
> had issued traffic to a VFR I was working and turned him away from another
> VFR that I was not talking to. He came
> back a minute later and told me that if I hadn't turned him they would have
> hit in mid air. So that made my day.
>
> Anyway....if you have anymore questions just ask. I will do my best to help
> anyone out with ATC stuff...from
> an enroute perspective....now them Tower guys are just strange :))
>
> Jimmy Arnold
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tom Grant <Tom.Grant(at)LACodeWORKS.com> |
Paul Besing's site has the Fuselage stand pictures...
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing/shop/enginest.htm
>>
"Charles L. Cotton"
Subject: RV-List: Moveble Jigs??
I've seen a moveable fuselage stand made from some type of engine stand,
but I can't recall where ( it may have been on Sam's web page). (But
that's a problem for later.)
<<
===============================
Tom Grant
Louisiana CodeWORKS, Inc.
318-377-1149
http://www.LaCodeWORKS.com
________________________________________________________________________________
"Paul & Gerti RV-4 F-1 Rocket 006"
From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
Subject: | Re: Collision Avoidance |
>After 300+ hours in my -4 I have had many many occasions (and you have too)
>where crossing traffic has dictated a slight left or right...
I rarely have a flight where there is no conflicting traffic. There are 5
airports in a small area near home field.
I find you have about 5 seconds to notice someone before they become a
factor. We fly fast airplanes. Which makes keeping your eyes OUT of the
cockpit ever so more important. When I am doing something inside (changing
TPX codes, GPS stuff, etc.) I'll silently count to 5 and look up and around.
It has also been discussed the best way to respond when seeing conflicting
traffic. Probably the worst thing to do is the one most often taught: turn
right or left. This presents the largest target to our "foe", who usualy
won't see you, even in the turn. Better may be to climb if they are below
you, descend if they are above you: smaller target. The key is not to make
them see you (they usually won't) but to get out of their way. I always
rock my wings to let them know I see them and very rarely get a wing-rock
back.
Micheal
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
Subject: | Re: To blister or not? |
>I need to decide whether or not to put a bubble in my cowling to provide
>more alternator pulley clearance....
Several things to consider: 1. The engine will sag on the mounts. 2. air
pressure against the cowl while flying will push it closer to anything in
the way, even with a properly braced cowl. 3. In a high G-force turn/pull
out, the engine will sag more than the cowl. 4. If you don't want to mess
with fiberglassing, sanding, and repainting your cowl later (which will be
hard to match the original paint), do everything you need to do now. 5. A
streamlined "blister" makes everyone wonder what you have in there that is
That Big. (That? Oh, that's for the turbocharger bracket............)
Sometimes you have to fly for a while to know exactly where the areas are
going to rub, i.e. exactly where you want your blister. Also, bugs hitting
the cowl tell you which way to direct the angle of the tapering of the
blister. My alternator mount arm touches the cowl, even with it being as
short as I could make it, so I put a streamlined blister in. No big deal.
Do it now, if you are going to. My alternator pully still puts a groove in
the cowl, but it is very superficial and has not needed attention. It only
happens in a tight turn.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: To blister or not? |
>I need to decide whether or not to put a bubble in my cowling to provide
>more alternator pulley clearance....
One of the many reasons not to paint until after you've flown.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~150 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: West Systems: Corrosive? |
> heard many good things said on the list about West System epoxy. I'm
> about to order some for canopy and gear fairings, but had a red light go
on
> when I opened the Aircraft Spruce catalog and saw a big caution sign
> indicating that this stuff is corrosive.
>
> Should I be worried about applying it next to my beautiful aluminum
> airframe?
No.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Best Advice You Ever Received... |
The best advice I got was from a marathon runner. He told me (a minimum
runner!) to run at least an hour a week total. Better to run three days, 20
minutes each. Eventually it becomes a habit and you miss it when you don't.
Kinda like do something on the airplane every day.
Make a plan for each week's work; what you need to do and what you will need
to have to do it. Scratch stuff off as you do it and keep the list, like a
log, so that you can go back over it and see what you have accomplished.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "J.Arnold" <j_arnold(at)swbell.net> |
I didn't think before I started this thread on ATC, but would the
administrator let me know if I was wrong in starting this ATC thread on the
RV-List? This might have been the wrong forum to have this thing run, since
the majority of you I guess are building your RV's and want info on that. I
just happen to subscribe because I plan on starting on in the summer of
2001.
Please advise if this is off topic or not.
Thanks in advance,
Jimmy Arnold
Fort Worth Center
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Wultrad warranty (was Aircraft Spruce electric gyros) |
<<>>
I recently sent an email to Amy asking about their warranty. On 9/11/00 she
responded: "First of all, all of our instruments carry a one year limited
warranty. For any defective products during warranty period, pretty much you
receive a replacement right [a]way. ... But one thing I am pretty sure if
you talk to more people, you might gain more confidence when you buy them.
Thank you again.
Amy
Wultrad, Inc."
She did tell me at Oshkosh that they do not recommend the electric gyro
instruments for aerobatics but since I'm building a -9 that's not an issue
for me. (I still have reservations however).
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Wingtip installation
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RotorMac(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | RV-3 Checklist & POH |
Hello Listers,
I've seen in the archives that there are sources for -6 checklists and POH's.
Does anyone know where I can acquire one for a
RV-3A ?
Mac
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "lothar klingmuller" <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Protective vinyl tubing?? |
"lothar klingmuller"
Listers, is it acceptable to use vinyl tubing as a protective shield for
running wires ( to flap motor etc) inside the cockpit?
I seem to remember that noxious fumes are generated when vinyl tubing gets
hot. How hot is hot?
What alternates can we use?
thanks. Lothar
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
This is of interest to the newer members, who are still purchasing
tools. Harbor Freight has a nice right angle die grinder on sale now. It
comes with the "Rolok" type disk holder you need to hold the 2"
ScotchBrite discs used for deburring all your aluminium parts. Check it
out at:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf/DisplayItem.taf?Itemnumber=41655
I have one of these & it works fine. It's a copy of the Chicago
Pneumatics model.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 wings
Boca Raton, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
>I didn't think before I started this thread on ATC, but would the
>administrator let me know if I was wrong in starting this ATC thread on the
>RV-List? This might have been the wrong forum to have this thing run, since
>the majority of you I guess are building your RV's and want info on that.
Jimmy: Don't worry. This is useful information. The info given on this list
is for flyers as well as builders. I once questioned if there should be a
separate Flying List, and the consensus was NO. All builders will
eventually fly, and SHOULD be flying now to keep nonbuilding skills up,
when the time comes. As it will. I found this thread VERY interesting as it
gives us on one side a view of the "other side", one we usually only assume
things about. Those that don't want to know this now can file it or delete
it.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Flying and still learning from The List
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Firewall Insulaton Flammability |
In a message dated 9/18/00 5:08:50 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< Orkotek strip blanket >>
Tim: Where do you get this stuff?
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
When I first started flying my RV 6 I noticed water draining out of the rear
after landing when flying through moderate to heavy rain. My cure was to
drill 3/16 holes in the bottom skin just in front of the bulkheads.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RE: advisories |
In a message dated 9/19/00 9:20:49 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
j_arnold(at)swbell.net writes:
<< Please advise if this is off topic or not. >>
Jimmy: I can't speak for anyone else, or Matt, but I appreciate this
thread. Who knows, it might save my neck someday.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Listers,
Are there any FAR's regarding the color, placement or requirement for the
colored stripes on propeller tips? A Pitt's driver friend of mine recently
was nabbed (by the contest safety inspector) at an IAC sanctioned event for
not having any stripes on his carbon fiber prop. Just an IAC safety reg or
FAA reg?
I would like to add a bit of color coordination to my prop tips to match the
airplane paint but do not wish to bust any regs or lessen the visibility of
the prop arc.
I got to thinking about this last weekend during a fly-in. Just starting up
with all those people around...and many little ones...got me thinking about
it. Safety first.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bulkhead drain holes |
Charlie and Tupper England
"Owens, Laird" wrote:
>
>
> David,
>
> I did not put drain holes in my RV when I built it.
>
> Some of you might remember my oil cooler failure where I dumped 5 quarts of oil
out of airplane.
> When I washed out the tailcone, I was surprised how well the bulkheads created
dams for the solvent to puddle. I drilled 1/4" dia. holes just in front of the
bulkheads in the tailcones to provide drains.
> snip
> What really caught my attention was the fact that the oil got sucked up into
the tailcone during the flight. I imagine that flying in heavy rain would do
the same thing. You MIGHT be able to collect enough water to be a CG issue.
Then again, maybe not.
>
> I would recommend drain holes just for the warm fuzzy feeling they provide.
>
> Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 95 hrs
> O-360, Sensenich (83)
> Simi Valley, SoCal
>
>
> I am to the point of skinning fuselage and am wondering if it is necessary to
put drain holes in the bottom of bulkheads. If so at what exact location do
the holes need to be and what size? Are these holes really necessary?
> Should I anticipate a collection of moisture in my fuselage?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6 fuselage
>
I can say from experience in an old Luscombe 8A ramp queen that water in
the tail cone CAN become a cg issue.
The water started under the seat, & with each touch & go, shifted back a
bulkhead or two. After a couple of circuits & noticing that trim was
changing with each circuit, I 3-point landed with forward stick. I found
the drain holes clogged with dirt & debris.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | paul quick <paulq(at)global.co.za> |
Subject: | inverted oil rv-4 |
has anyone used an inverted christen oil system on an rv-4 that does not use
the"T" piece ,i'm looking to use an adapter much the same as b& c
manufactures on the vacuum pad but without the vacuum pump . i believe one
can then have the return line permanently primed and thus no drop in
pressure when going inverted.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
Subject: | Carbon Fiber: Corrosive? |
Listers,
I was just informed that carbon fiber is super corrosive when it comes in
contact with aluminum. Is this true? I was also told that composite builders
that use carbon fiber liberally use fiberglass patches at strategic locations
just so they can attach things like aluminum attach points for landing gear and
the like.
I guess this puts the kibosh on using carbon fiber to seal the ends of the
elevator fairings.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A (FWF)
O-360 Sensenich
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Zercher" <ez(at)sensenich.com> |
Brian,
14 CFR, Part 23, Section 23.905 letter (f) specifies, "Each pusher propeller
must be marked so that the disc is conspicuous under normal daylight ground
conditions."
Interesting that it only specifies a pusher prop.
Ed Zercher
>Listers,
Are there any FAR's regarding the color, placement or requirement for the
colored stripes on propeller tips? A Pitt's driver friend of mine recently
was nabbed (by the contest safety inspector) at an IAC sanctioned event for
not having any stripes on his carbon fiber prop. Just an IAC safety reg or
FAA reg?
I would like to add a bit of color coordination to my prop tips to match the
airplane paint but do not wish to bust any regs or lessen the visibility of
the prop arc.
I got to thinking about this last weekend during a fly-in. Just starting up
with all those people around...and many little ones...got me thinking about
it. Safety first.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
Subject: | Re: RE: advisories |
This is definitely "on topic". The list supports both builders and flyers.
In my opinion, any exchange which allows any of us to use the "system" for
safe flight is very valuable indeed! Besides, once the thread is started,
all one has to do is hit the delete key when one sees the subject of the
e-mail, if not interested. I do it all the time.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (54 hours)
----- Original Message -----
From: J.Arnold <j_arnold(at)swbell.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 10:58 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: advisories
>
> I didn't think before I started this thread on ATC, but would the
> administrator let me know if I was wrong in starting this ATC thread on
the
> RV-List? This might have been the wrong forum to have this thing run,
since
> the majority of you I guess are building your RV's and want info on that.
I
> just happen to subscribe because I plan on starting on in the summer of
> 2001.
> Please advise if this is off topic or not.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jimmy Arnold
> Fort Worth Center
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Greg Booze <macbooze(at)ior.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Sender / Floptube |
Listers,
Two Questions
1) Just tested the resistance
measurements on the S/W sender for my -8
fuel tank. The readings were 30 ohms
(full) and 245 (empty). The archives
showed 33 full and 240 empty. Are my
readings OK or should I readjust the
sender?
2) After installing the trap door for
the inverted tank, the flop tube moves
freely without any interference except
from the nut plates on the inspection
plate. I plan to install a guard over the
nut plates per the George O tapes but
don't see any need to install the diagonal
guard from the skin stiffener to the rib.
Should I install this diagonal guard per
the George O tapes or not?
Thanks in advance,
Greg
finishing -8 fuel tanks
Rathdrum, ID.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
Subject: | Re: Carbon Fiber: Corrosive? |
This is very true.
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com on 09/19/2000 02:53:42 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, rv8list(at)egroups.com
cc: (bcc: Dean Pichon/ADLittle)
Subject: RV-List: Carbon Fiber: Corrosive?
Listers,
I was just informed that carbon fiber is super corrosive when it comes in
contact with aluminum. Is this true? I was also told that composite builders
that use carbon fiber liberally use fiberglass patches at strategic locations
just so they can attach things like aluminum attach points for landing gear and
the like.
I guess this puts the kibosh on using carbon fiber to seal the ends of the
elevator fairings.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A (FWF)
O-360 Sensenich
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
These are some of my thought's after reading Rick Caldwell's post on his
flooded carb and how I would probably handle it. Over the years I have
divided snags into two categories, those that can be deferred without
affecting safety and those that ground the aircraft until corrected.
A flooding carb would be a no go snag. A properly overhauled carb should be
able to handle up to eight psi before overriding the float, however 1/2
pound is sufficient to keep the engine running at any setting below 65%.
The correct engine driven pump is self regulating usually from 4 1/2 - 6
psi. The correct Facet pump puts out 2 1/2 - 4 1/2 psi. Any fuel pressure
reading over 6 psi even with both pumps running would be cause for concern.
I would make sure that the fuel pressure gauge is reading correctly, it is
highly unlikely that the Facet pump would ever put out more than 4 1/2 psi
so by running the Facet pump only this will give a reasonable check on the
gauge accuracy. Then after starting the engine see what the pressure is with
both running, then shut the Facet of and check the engine pump pressure. If
both are in the operating range then it is likely the carb.
While it is possible for the engine to run with a flooding condition and the
mixture in idle cut off I would be concerned if the mixture control was
properly installed.
I personally would not want to fly a aircraft if I was concerned about
causing a problem by turning the boost pump on. The standard procedure for
me over the years when flying any low wing aircraft is always use the boost
pump for take-off and landing. Also bearing in mind that in some fuel
injected installations it can take up to 30 seconds to get a restart in case
of a blown tank.
These comments are based on the carburated Lycoming installation.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
Subject: | Re: West Systems: Corrosive? |
The corrosive warning on resins generally applies only to uncured resin
components. Epoxies are remarkably inert when cured. You should have no
problem using them around aluminum.
Dean Pichon
"Sally and George" on 09/18/2000 12:20:00 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to "Sally and George"
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
cc: (bcc: Dean Pichon/ADLittle)
Subject: RV-List: West Systems: Corrosive?
I've heard many good things said on the list about West System epoxy. I'm
about to order some for canopy and gear fairings, but had a red light go on
when I opened the Aircraft Spruce catalog and saw a big caution sign
indicating that this stuff is corrosive.
Should I be worried about applying it next to my beautiful aluminum
airframe?
George Kilishek
RV-8 N888GK (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
"'Ed Zercher'"@matronics.com
What about all of those polished aluminum props? I see a lot of those
unpainted.
Randall ???
Ed Cole
Maxim Integrated Products
Bldg. 120 Ext. 6605
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ed Zercher [SMTP:ez(at)sensenich.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 12:00 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Prop tip paint?
>
>
> Brian,
>
> 14 CFR, Part 23, Section 23.905 letter (f) specifies, "Each pusher
> propeller
> must be marked so that the disc is conspicuous under normal daylight
> ground
> conditions."
>
> Interesting that it only specifies a pusher prop.
>
> Ed Zercher
>
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Protective vinyl tubing?? |
"Jones, Bryan D." <bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
The vinyl tubing would have to oxidize (500-600-F) before releasing fumes.
Hydrogen chloride would be the bad product in this case. Concentrated, it's
lethal, but would only cause burning sensation in the throat, nose and eyes
in the case you describe. I used polyethylene tubing for chaffing (sp?)
protection on a couple of my wiring runs. Polyethylene will break down into
more or less pure hydrocarbons, CO and CO2. It would be a little easier to
breathe if you had to and provide as good or better physical protection for
the wiring. probably cheaper too.
Bryan Jones -8 55-hrs
Pearland, Texas
-----Original Message-----
From: lothar klingmuller [mailto:lothark(at)worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 12:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: Protective vinyl tubing??
Listers, is it acceptable to use vinyl tubing as a protective shield for
running wires ( to flap motor etc) inside the cockpit?
I seem to remember that noxious fumes are generated when vinyl tubing gets
hot. How hot is hot?
What alternates can we use?
thanks. Lothar
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Burton"<dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Prop tip paint? |
Hi Brian,
I calculated how much of an imbalance of force that a gram more paint on
one
end of a prop would apply with the tips almost supersonic. It is a lot! Apply
paint carefully. (I do think it is a good idea to paint the tips).
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Subject: | Carbon Fiber: Corrosive? |
Jim,
Your informant is correct. Given the the right environment, the aluminum will
corrode, although I wouldn't call it "super corrosive". It's similar to putting
steel and aluminum together unprotected. Given a wet environment, the aluminum
will corrode.
He is also correct that putting down a thin piece of glass down first will eliminate
the problem.
I used carbon (just because I had some) to make the overhang and windshield fillet
for my slider canopy installation. I put down a layer of glass first.
I only use carbon if its needed for strength. It's alot more expensive than glass,
particularly if your just going to seal the elevator openings.
Laird (I do this kinda stuff for a living)
RV-6, N515L, 95 hrs
O-360, Sensenich (83)
Simi Valley, SoCal
Listers,
I was just informed that carbon fiber is super corrosive when it comes in
contact with aluminum. Is this true? I was also told that composite builders
that use carbon fiber liberally use fiberglass patches at strategic locations
just so they can attach things like aluminum attach points for landing gear and
the like.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Sender / Floptube |
> 1) Just tested the resistance
>measurements on the S/W sender for my -8
>fuel tank. The readings were 30 ohms
>(full) and 245 (empty). The archives
>showed 33 full and 240 empty. Are my
>readings OK or should I readjust the
>sender?
Greg: I had the same concerns when I tested mine. I finally just hooked them up
to the respective gages that I had already purchased and found that they worked
fine for both ends of the spectrum. If you have yet to install the senders this
can be done on a work bench in about five minutes. If you have any doubts this
is the best way to know for sure.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A (FWF)
O-360 Sensenich
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Prop tip paint? |
"Builder's Bookstore"
> I calculated how much of an imbalance of force that a gram more paint on one
end of a
> prop would apply with the tips almost supersonic. It is a lot! Apply paint
> carefully. (I do think it is a good idea to paint the tips).
>
> Dave
We used to balance our wood ultralight props with a can of spray varnish. When
the
planes started running rough, we would pull the prop, put it on balancer, and give
the
light side a quick 1/2 second squirt or two at the tip. That's all it took to make
a big
difference as felt in flight.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
Subject: | Wingwalk rib attach |
Howdy!
_FINALLY_ installing two most inboard wing ribs (-6A). Plans sheet 14
has a detail on the right side showing using LP4-3 poprivets at the
center of the rear rib flange. C'mon now! I stick the rivet in the
hole and there's 1/4" of rivet standing proudly out of the hole. Can
this really work without doing some major distorting of the rear spar
web even if the head of the rivet does pull down to the web? Stack some
washers under the head to take up the slack? Whadoyado here?
Thanks-
From the PossumWorks
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Sender / Floptube |
3 to 5 ohm difference is insignificant.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 3:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Fuel Sender / Floptube
>
>
> > 1) Just tested the resistance
> >measurements on the S/W sender for my -8
> >fuel tank. The readings were 30 ohms
> >(full) and 245 (empty). The archives
> >showed 33 full and 240 empty. Are my
> >readings OK or should I readjust the
> >sender?
>
> Greg: I had the same concerns when I tested mine. I finally just hooked
them up
> to the respective gages that I had already purchased and found that they
worked
> fine for both ends of the spectrum. If you have yet to install the
senders this
> can be done on a work bench in about five minutes. If you have any doubts
this
> is the best way to know for sure.
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8A (FWF)
> O-360 Sensenich
> N89JA reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Field <jfield(at)pressenter.com> |
Subject: | Carb and Fuel Pump for sale |
I have a MA-4SPA carb and the engine driven fuel pump (LW15472) off of a
new O-320D1A. I'm installing the Airflow Performance system and don't need
these. The prices are 750$ for the carb and 125$ for the pump.
Reply off line to jfield(at)pressenter.com or call John Field 715-425-7064.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "sue gregor" <hailey67(at)hotmail.com> |
RV-8 Quick build kit complete and Aero Sport Power new IO-360-A1B6 (200
H.P.) engine for sale.
Inquire off list please.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Firewall Insulaton Flammability |
> << Orkotek strip blanket >>
> Tim: Where do you get this stuff?
Aircraft Spruce
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
Subject: | Suggestions for dimpling in close quarters? |
RV-List Digest Server
Any suggestions from the assembled multitudes on how to dimple holes where there's
not much room for the tool with the dimple dies? For example, the holes on
the flanges of the bottom rib for the RV-6 rudder...at the narrow (trailing
edge) of the rib...there's not enough room between the flanges to get a rivet
squeezer yoke in there. Will the vise grip dimpling tool available from Avery's
work? Or do I have to use something else?
Semper Fi
John
RV-6 (HS and VS finished...working on the control surfaces)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
Subject: | Suggestions for dimpling in close quarters? |
I was able to dimple the bottom of the rudder and other tight spots with the
vise-grip dimpling tool from Avery. Without this, I would have had problems.
Then again, I haven't tried the pop-rivet dimple yet.
Are
RV-8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Lawson
Sent: September 19, 2000 9:22 PM
Subject: RV-List: Suggestions for dimpling in close quarters?
Any suggestions from the assembled multitudes on how to dimple holes where
there's not much room for the tool with the dimple dies? For example, the
holes on the flanges of the bottom rib for the RV-6 rudder...at the narrow
(trailing edge) of the rib...there's not enough room between the flanges to
get a rivet squeezer yoke in there. Will the vise grip dimpling tool
available from Avery's work? Or do I have to use something else?
Semper Fi
John
RV-6 (HS and VS finished...working on the control surfaces)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Suggestions for dimpling in close quarters? |
-----Original Message-----
From: John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Date: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 7:22 PM
Subject: RV-List: Suggestions for dimpling in close quarters?
>
>Any suggestions from the assembled multitudes on how to dimple holes where
there's not much room for the tool with the dimple dies? For example, the
holes on the flanges of the bottom rib for the RV-6 rudder...at the narrow
(trailing edge) of the rib...there's not enough room between the flanges to
get a rivet squeezer yoke in there. Will the vise grip dimpling tool
available from Avery's work? Or do I have to use something else?
>
>Semper Fi
>John
>RV-6 (HS and VS finished...working on the control surfaces)
Drill several #40 through-holes in a 3/16 inch thick piece of aluminum strip
about 1 1/2 inches wide and 4 inches long. Drill the holes at the corners
and along and near to the edges. This is the female die.
Countersink the holes a few thou deeper than required for a flush rivet.
Clamp the strip firmly in a heavy (at least 5 pound) drill press vise and
lay the vise on the building bench. Maneuver and support the piece to be
dimpled so that the skin hole is concentric with a convenient hole in the
strip. Insert a flush rivet into the holes (skin and female die) -- this is
the male die. Select a 1/8 diameter pin punch and CAREFULLY whack the punch
against the rivet. It will form an acceptable dimple. This works with as
little as 1/4 inch between skins.
Be sure to offset top and bottom skin holes or the rivets will interfere
when the skins are really close and the rivets are collinear. Pop rivets
are the prudent choice for tight places like these.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 0.0 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Suggestions for dimpling in close quarters? |
There are some dimple dies that work with a pop rivet gun. They use a
small nail on one side of the die and the pop rivet gun pulls the two
dies together to form a nice dimple. Avery should have it.
John Lawson wrote:
>
>
> Any suggestions from the assembled multitudes on how to dimple holes where there's
not much room for the tool with the dimple dies? For example, the holes
on the flanges of the bottom rib for the RV-6 rudder...at the narrow (trailing
edge) of the rib...there's not enough room between the flanges to get a rivet
squeezer yoke in there. Will the vise grip dimpling tool available from Avery's
work? Or do I have to use something else?
>
> Semper Fi
> John
> RV-6 (HS and VS finished...working on the control surfaces)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chris Sheehan <ctsheehan(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Suggestions for dimpling in close quarters? |
>
> Any suggestions from the assembled multitudes on how to dimple holes where there's
not much room for the tool with the dimple dies?
1) just use the male die in the squeezer without the female (i.e. the
squeezer yoke acts as the female). That's not my idea; saw it
on the web - it actually works quite well!
2) using a 'pop rivet' die is tricky because it's hard to angle the
'mandrel' (nail) through the hole so I came up with the following: I
used a short (2"-3") length of 3/32" piano wire as a mandrel, and a
3/32" 'wheel collar' (both hobby store items). I filed a notch in the
wire close to one end, fed it through the male die, rib, female die and
wheel collar (in that order) and tightened the collar set screw in the
notch. Now just run the pop rivet puller on the mandrel as usual, and
once the dimple is formed undo the wheel collar and take it all apart.
Sounds time consuming but there are only a few dimples to do this way
and it takes about 1 minute per.
3) regardless of how you manage to make the dimple, if it's not quite
right a turn or 2 by hand with a piloted countersink finishes it off
nicely, barely removing any metal at all.
Chris Sheehan
Almost finished RV-6 Emp Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tim Bronson <IMAV8N(at)compuserve.com> |
<>
I attended the T-6 forum at Oshkosh this year. During one discussion
the gentleman conducting the forum mentioned that the polished prop blades
on some airplanes technically weren't acceptable due to lack of tip
markings. I THOUGHT he referenced FAR's, but am not certain.
The following is quoted from AC 43.13, "Aircraft Inspection, Repairs, and
Alterations":
"630. BLADE-TIP IDENTIFICATION. Many persons have been fatally injured
walking into whirling propellers. Painting a warning strip on the
propeller serves to reduce chances of such injuries. Cover approximately
4 inches of the propeller tips on both sides with an orange-yellow
nonreflecting paint or lacquer. Open the drain holes in the metal tipping
of wood blades after the tips have been painted."
Personally, I think a spiral or half-and-half design on the spinner makes
a turning prop more obvious. Tip plus spinner markings would probably be
the safest bet, IMHO.
Tim
Pittsburgh
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Imfairings(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Carbon Fiber: Corrosive? |
Jim,
I have no first hand experience with the carbon corrosion problem but assume
it is the same as writing on aluminum with a lead [carbon] pencil. If the
carbon fiber were encapsulated so it couldn't contact the aluminum it
probably would be ok.
I see no gain using carbon fiber in that application. Carbon is great in high
tension light weight situations but 's' glass would work just as well, add a
layer and 'e' glass would do the job.
Bob
Fairings Etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
Subject: | Re: RE: advisories |
Jim
There are alot of us here who are flying our airplanes and stay on the list
for the occasional nugget that helps us out flying and also to be of what
ever assistance we can be to builders.
I for one have enjoyed your posts alot and think they are entirely suitable.
Joe Hine
C-FYTQ RV4
ps. one thing I have noticed about US controlers is they alot of them
mangle canadian registrations, especially as we get further south :-)
>
> I didn't think before I started this thread on ATC, but would the
> administrator let me know if I was wrong in starting this ATC thread on
the
> RV-List? This might have been the wrong forum to have this thing run,
since
> the majority of you I guess are building your RV's and want info on that.
I
> just happen to subscribe because I plan on starting on in the summer of
> 2001.
> Please advise if this is off topic or not.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jimmy Arnold
> Fort Worth Center
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Suggestions for dimpling in close quarters? |
>
>Any suggestions from the assembled multitudes on how to dimple holes
>where there's not much room for the tool with the dimple dies? For
>example, the holes on the flanges of the bottom rib for the RV-6
>rudder...at the narrow (trailing edge) of the rib...there's not
>enough room between the flanges to get a rivet squeezer yoke in
>there. Will the vise grip dimpling tool available from Avery's
>work? Or do I have to use something else?
>
>Semper Fi
>John
>RV-6 (HS and VS finished...working on the control surfaces)
John,
The vise grip dimpler definitely will get in places that most other
things won't. I used it for the rivets you mentioned. On ocassion,
I have been known to bend the flanges apart, do the dimpling, and
then bend them back the way they should be. This may give you good
enough access to use a regular squeezer.
I also had to grind flats on the female dimple die to handle holes
that were a bit close to the web.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.nbci.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JNice51355(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Collision Avoidance |
In a message dated 09/19/2000 8:30:11 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
mikel(at)dimensional.com writes:
<< The key is not to make
them see you (they usually won't) but to get out of their way. >>
A flight instructor once told me that I should look for directional movement
on an approaching target. He claims that if the target is not moving across
the windscreen or canopy, then it is on a collision course. He also claims
that as long as it is a moving target, you will not collide.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
Rick in the paragraph were I mentioned mixture control installation I was
not referring to your installation but to the assembling of the mixture
control in the carb itself. This can be done incorrectly making it
impossible to shut the engine down as well as taking away the leaning
function. If your mixture control has been working normally prior to this
problem that rules this out.
One of the greatest dangers of fire is a flooded carb then shutting the
engine down with the mag switches causing a backfire. My choice would be to
shut the fuel off.
One of the problems I have in making a post to the list is to do it in such
a way that they are read for information and safety purposes only and in no
way are they intended to criticize anyone.
Eustace
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
Subject: | Re: How to talk to ATC my own version |
Comments below ..
some stuff deleted.
James
>
>
> Rick,
>
> I am not quite sure what your asking? At least part of the question I
might
> be able to help you with. If you are having problems with controllers
> cancelling your advisories, you might "politely" ask them if there is any
> way possible for them to hand you off to the next controller. Some of this
> depends on the different computer equipment that we use. Centers and
> approach controls have to have the computer software programmed to allow
VFR
> flight plans to pass between the different computer systems. If the
software
> does not allow the flight plans to pass automatically then more than
likely
> you will be terminated, squawk 1200 and told to contact the next
controller
> for advisories.
Also, I have noticed (*it seems*) that when I call Ground Control/Clearance
Delivery and tell them that I am requesting VFR Flight Following for the
*entire* trip ("if possible please"), I usually will get a " ... stand by
for squawk code". This is good. I can then tell if the code I am given is
one just for the *local* area or one that fits the entire length of the
trip. In this case a typical trip would be from Columbia, SC (CAE) to
Tallahassee, FL (TLH). This trip involves multiple approaches and centers
for a distance of less than 300 nm.
If I get the "radar service terminated", I usually ask if they can suggest a
frequency for further flight following and usually get it. It **seems** that
sometimes the receiving/next station in the link was not "ready" at the
right time but gets freed up later and is willing to help.
Just one person's experience.
James
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "b McFarland" <mcfarland_bryan(at)hotmail.com> |
Hello all:
I'm attempting to find some information on the tail kit for an
rv -6 prepunched. Will this work for an -8. I have found a deal (seems
like.) if it will. Any help will be appreciated.
Bryan
gathering for a -8
mcfarland_bryan(at)hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "J.Arnold" <j_arnold(at)swbell.net> |
hehe, it's because we have to think about saying all of those phonetics
instead of just "November 123" :)
Jimmy Arnold
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "J.Arnold" <j_arnold(at)swbell.net> |
Subject: | How to talk to ATC my own version |
Well,
About all I can say about that is that in the U.S. there are 20 centers.
Each center is allocated a certain batch of discrete codes to use. When you
get to another center then that is when you will sometimes be asked to
squawk a different code. Since there are only so many codes available, just
like freqs, that is why they do this. You could actually depart from an
approach that butts up to 2 centers and/or the second center is real close
so the computer gets a little comfused. I think I am babbling a bit. I just
don't know exactly how to explain it in writing. Hope this helps a little.
Jimmy Arnold
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Steve Judd <sjudd(at)ffd2.com> |
Subject: | Re: Suggestions for dimpling in close quarters? |
Hola John,
On Tue, 19 Sep 2000, John Lawson wrote:
>
> Any suggestions from the assembled multitudes on how to dimple holes
You've gotten a lot of good advice. I just wanted to add that I have
found the vise-grip dimplers, pop-rivet dimplers, and squeezer/c-frame to
_all_ be useful, many times uniquely useful. The vise-grips are useful
for your situation -- tight clearance on a rib tip. The pop-rivet
dimplers are very handy on things like the holes nearest the bend in the
control surface skins.
So I suggest buying all of the above. They're cheap.
-S
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Graham Bird" <g.bird(at)opengroup.org> |
Its NOT an IAC safety reg....
Looking for an RV6 to buy.......
Graham Bird Phone (510) 530 9008
3968 Oakmore Road Work (650) 323 7992
Oakland CA 94602 Fax (240) 214 1063
President, IAC Chapter 38 www.iac38.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Denk
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 10:53 AM
Subject: RV-List: Prop tip paint?
Listers,
Are there any FAR's regarding the color, placement or requirement for the
colored stripes on propeller tips? A Pitt's driver friend of mine recently
was nabbed (by the contest safety inspector) at an IAC sanctioned event for
not having any stripes on his carbon fiber prop. Just an IAC safety reg or
FAA reg?
I would like to add a bit of color coordination to my prop tips to match the
airplane paint but do not wish to bust any regs or lessen the visibility of
the prop arc.
I got to thinking about this last weekend during a fly-in. Just starting up
with all those people around...and many little ones...got me thinking about
it. Safety first.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Suggestions for dimpling in close quarters? |
In a message dated 9/19/00 5:21:37 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jwlawson(at)hargray.com writes:
<< Any suggestions from the assembled multitudes on how to dimple holes where
there's not much room for the tool with the dimple dies? >>
The vice grip dimpler will work in a lot of places that the squeezer won't.
Avery also sells a pop rivet dimpler that is very useful. Sometimes I've had
to machine a dimple in a flat bar of steel and set the dimple with a rivet
gun/dimple set on VERY LOW pressure.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: AIR COMPRESSOR.. |
big dan, i was in your shoes about a year ago and asked the same question.
tell ya what i was told and did. i went to home depot and got the cambell
hausfield 20 gal. 5 hp. for around $ 350??? works great and i am pleased.
btw, it is 110 not 220. if you want to know more e me off list. bob in ark
doin wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
Subject: | Re: Landing Lights... |
Bill VonDane wrote:
> http://vondane.com/ideas/
Didn't work for me. But http://vondane.com/rv8a/ideas/index.htm did!
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob DiMeo - Oracle <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au> |
Bryan,
I believe the "6" tail is smaller than the "8". If you intend to build an
"8" get the "8" tail or you could compromise the controllability of the
plane.
Bob
RV8 #423
> ----------
> From: b McFarland
> Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 12:57 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: rv -6 tail kit
>
>
> Hello all:
>
> I'm attempting to find some information on the tail kit for an
> rv -6 prepunched. Will this work for an -8. I have found a deal (seems
> like.) if it will. Any help will be appreciated.
>
> Bryan
> gathering for a -8
> mcfarland_bryan(at)hotmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: rv -6 tail kit |
>
>Hello all:
>
> I'm attempting to find some information on the tail kit for an
>rv -6 prepunched. Will this work for an -8. I have found a deal (seems
>like.) if it will. Any help will be appreciated.
>
>Bryan
>gathering for a -8
>mcfarland_bryan(at)hotmail.com
Most of the parts in the HS and elevators are the same, but you would
have to buy a few unique RV-8 parts. The original RV-6 VS and rudder
were smaller than the RV-8, so you would need to order those. You
would need to order a set of RV-8 tail plans and construction manual.
If it were half price, you might break even. I wouldn't buy it
unless it was much cheaper than that.
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.nbci.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Graham Murphy <jgmurphy(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Subject: | Re: Suggestions for dimpling in close quarters? |
Yes, dont bother dimpling them and put in universal head rivets. I dont
beleive that a couple of universal head 3/32 dia rivets near to the TE
at the tips will make the slightest difference aerodynamically.
Graham Murphy
Empennage and control surfaces,
New Zealand.
John Lawson wrote:
>
>
> Any suggestions from the assembled multitudes on how to dimple holes where there's
not much room for the tool with the dimple dies? For example, the holes
on the flanges of the bottom rib for the RV-6 rudder...at the narrow (trailing
edge) of the rib...there's not enough room between the flanges to get a rivet
squeezer yoke in there. Will the vise grip dimpling tool available from Avery's
work? Or do I have to use something else?
>
> Semper Fi
> John
> RV-6 (HS and VS finished...working on the control surfaces)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: AIR COMPRESSOR.. |
Count me in with the other replies to this. My 2 hp 12 gallon air
compressor (I bought it before I knew I was going to be building) is
adequate for riveting, but NOT for drilling or running a die grinder. You
will hate yourself if you buy too small a compressor because it will run
constantly and you will run out of air too soon. It may be overkill, but I
am now in the market for a 60-gallon upright compressor. I figure that will
last me forever. And, to reiterate...DON'T buy an oilless compressor! They
can wake the dead.
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A N143DJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
"'Charlie and Tupper England'"
Subject: | Bulkhead drain holes |
The old timers around here keep the drain holes clear by cutting a 2 or 3
inch piece of safety wire. They twist a spiral for about half of its length
and insert it through the hole from the inside. Then on the outside they
twist another spiral. What you end up with is a little piece of wire
dangling from the fuselage that can't be pulled through from either end. It
vibrates around and keeps the hole clear.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
RV-6A battery installation
-----Original Message-----
The water started under the seat, & with each touch & go, shifted back a
bulkhead or two. After a couple of circuits & noticing that trim was
changing with each circuit, I 3-point landed with forward stick. I found
the drain holes clogged with dirt & debris.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
Subject: | Re: Suggestions for dimpling in close quarters? |
> jwlawson(at)hargray.com writes:
>
> << Any suggestions from the assembled multitudes on how to dimple holes where
> there's not much room for the tool with the dimple dies? >>
An option that worked for me was using the pop rivet dimpling set with
one twist- cut the head off the finishing nail, thread the headless nail
through the male die, then the skin, then the female die and use a pair
of diagonal cutters to grasp the headless end of the nail behind the
female die, then use your pop rivet tool to form the dimple- takes a
little practice and you sacrifice a nail for each hole, but it does make
pretty good dimples at the trailing edges of the control surfaces...
FWIW From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "J.Arnold" <j_arnold(at)swbell.net> |
I would like to thank everyone for all of their nice replies about my post
about air traffic control. It just helps me remind me about the
"brotherhood" that the aviation forum has become. I was reluctant at first
to even bring the subject up, but just talking to that one RV pilot "made me
do it" :)
Happy flying and blue skies,
If anyone still has any questions not hesitate to ask, especially on the
list so everyone can benefit from your question. Remember no question is a
dumb question. I may have 19 years experience in ATC, but I still have to
ask questions about stuff I am not sure about.
Jimmy Arnold
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chris Sheehan <ctsheehan(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: rv -6 tail kit |
The older -6 VS is smaller and isn't counterweighted. Current -6 kits
are shipped with the same design VS and rudder as the -8.
Perhaps one of the -8 builders can confirm this, but I think the -8
control surface skins are 0.020" (and the counterweights are larger to
compensate). The -6 control surfaces are 0.016".
Chris
b McFarland wrote:
>
>
> Hello all:
>
> I'm attempting to find some information on the tail kit for an
> rv -6 prepunched. Will this work for an -8. I have found a deal (seems
> like.) if it will. Any help will be appreciated.
>
> Bryan
> gathering for a -8
> mcfarland_bryan(at)hotmail.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> |
Subject: | hole in longeron |
I drilled two 1/4" dia. holes in the top longeron of my RV-4. They are off
by 1/2". What do I do?
lhawkins, RV-4 fuse, Farmington,NM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "EXT-Richard, Emmanuelle J" <Emmanuelle.Richard(at)PSS.Boeing.com> |
"'JNice51355(at)AOL.COM'"
Subject: | Collision Avoidance |
"EXT-Richard, Emmanuelle J"
> A flight instructor once told me that I should look for directional movement
> on an approaching target. He claims that if the target is not moving across
> the windscreen or canopy, then it is on a collision course. He also claims
> that as long as it is a moving target, you will not collide.
>
He's right. If your angle off stays the same, then you're traveling on intersecting
lines. The other aircraft stays in the same relative position to you, it
just gets bigger.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "EXT-Richard, Emmanuelle J" <Emmanuelle.Richard(at)PSS.Boeing.com> |
"'Imfairings(at)AOL.COM'"
Subject: | Carbon Fiber: Corrosive? |
"EXT-Richard, Emmanuelle J"
If you are going to use aluminum rivets as fasteners in a carbon layup, you have
to install the rivets wet to prevent them being corroded away.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: AIR COMPRESSOR.. |
Rick Jory wrote:
>
>
> I have a Quincy that I got from Harbor Freight. It's pricey, but quiet and
> very capable. I think one thing to look for is the flow rate (CFM) . . .
> also, many if not most of the larger compressors will require a 220v line.
If you intend to paint your project in your shop, the 60 gallon
compressors will be much more suitable than the smaller units.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
S E Florida RV Builders ,
"Moe C's RV 8 List"
Subject: | Great animated site showing how various types of fluid pumps |
work
Hi folks
Ever wondered how a wobble pump works? How about the mechanical fuel
pump on your engine? You can view animations on 60 types of fluid pumps
at the site below. It's very useful for understanding how pumps work.
http://www.animatedsoftware.com/pumpglos/pumpglos.htm
Check it out
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 wings
Boca Raton, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bulkhead drain holes |
Some use a cotter pin. Safety wire might not rust as soon, eh?
hal
>
> The old timers around here keep the drain holes clear by cutting a 2 or 3
> inch piece of safety wire. They twist a spiral for about half of its
length
> and insert it through the hole from the inside. Then on the outside they
> twist another spiral. What you end up with is a little piece of wire
> dangling from the fuselage that can't be pulled through from either end.
It
> vibrates around and keeps the hole clear.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
Subject: | Re: AIR COMPRESSOR.. |
I limped along with my 30 year old Campbell Hausefeld (sp?) 3/4 hp 12
gal compressor which had rusted through the bottom. OK for riveting with
2X gun and Van's pneumatic squeezer. With the die grinder, I could
deburr 2 rib holes before it ran out of pressure. I had to program my
deburring to alternate between holes with the die grinder and edges with
the scotchbrite wheel while the compressor caught up.
I just bought a Porter Cable 60 gal/7 hp upright for $399. With the die
grinder running almost continuously the compressor runs only
occasionally. It is much less noisy than the old compressor.
I regret that I put it off so long.
Richard Dudley
6A finishing wings
Jim Bower wrote:
>
>
> Count me in with the other replies to this. My 2 hp 12 gallon air
> compressor (I bought it before I knew I was going to be building) is
> adequate for riveting, but NOT for drilling or running a die grinder. You
> will hate yourself if you buy too small a compressor because it will run
> constantly and you will run out of air too soon. It may be overkill, but I
> am now in the market for a 60-gallon upright compressor. I figure that will
> last me forever. And, to reiterate...DON'T buy an oilless compressor! They
> can wake the dead.
>
> Jim Bower
> St. Louis, MO
> RV-6A N143DJ
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
"EXT-Richard, Emmanuelle J"
Subject: | Re: Collision Avoidance |
> > A flight instructor once told me (snip)
> > that as long as it is a moving target, you will not collide.
I once dived to avoid an aircraft approaching from my 3 oclock. He was
really moving and I am sure we could have collided.
The same should apply in a car. A car directly in front but stopped doesn't
move, just gets bigger but one coming from you side is moving and can
collide.
Right?
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
Subject: | Re: Wingwalk rib attach |
Mark, Howz it going.
I just drilled a hole through the rear spar web and the rib then opened it
up to 3/16 so the head of the rivet would get clearance. You probably did
the same thing on the angles for the tip ribs around station 93.5 & 105.5.
You can see pictures of the rear spar stuff at the bottom of this page and
the tip rib in the middle of the page.
http://mnellis.jnet.net/RV-6_Page/wings_assembly_skeleton.htm
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel(at)edge.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 7:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wingwalk rib attach
>
> Howdy!
>
> _FINALLY_ installing two most inboard wing ribs (-6A). Plans sheet 14
> has a detail on the right side showing using LP4-3 poprivets at the
> center of the rear rib flange. C'mon now! I stick the rivet in the
> hole and there's 1/4" of rivet standing proudly out of the hole. Can
> this really work without doing some major distorting of the rear spar
> web even if the head of the rivet does pull down to the web? Stack some
> washers under the head to take up the slack? Whadoyado here?
>
> Thanks-
> From the PossumWorks
> Mark
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
"'Kevin Horton'"@matronics.com
Van's will quote you a price on the RV8 vert. stab and rudder, just call the
support line.
Ed Cole
Maxim Integrated Products
Bldg. 120 Ext. 6605
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kevin Horton [SMTP:khorton(at)cyberus.ca]
> Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 3:02 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; b McFarland
> Subject: Re: RV-List: rv -6 tail kit
>
>
>
> >
> >Hello all:
> >
> > I'm attempting to find some information on the tail kit for an
> >rv -6 prepunched. Will this work for an -8. I have found a deal (seems
> >like.) if it will. Any help will be appreciated.
> >
> >Bryan
> >gathering for a -8
> >mcfarland_bryan(at)hotmail.com
>
> Most of the parts in the HS and elevators are the same, but you would
> have to buy a few unique RV-8 parts. The original RV-6 VS and rudder
> were smaller than the RV-8, so you would need to order those. You
> would need to order a set of RV-8 tail plans and construction manual.
>
> If it were half price, you might break even. I wouldn't buy it
> unless it was much cheaper than that.
>
> Take care,
>
>
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://members.nbci.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "EXT-Richard, Emmanuelle J" <Emmanuelle.Richard(at)PSS.Boeing.com> |
"EXT-Richard, Emmanuelle J"
Subject: | Collision Avoidance |
"EXT-Richard, Emmanuelle J"
>
>
> > A flight instructor once told me that I should look for directional movement
> > on an approaching target. He claims that if the target is not moving across
> > the windscreen or canopy, then it is on a collision course. He also claims
> > that as long as it is a moving target, you will not collide.
> >
> He's right. If your angle off stays the same, then you're traveling on intersecting
lines
>
I should have added that your relative speeds are such that you will get to the
intersection at the same time.
> . The other aircraft stays in the same relative position to you, it just gets
bigger.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Steve Judd <sjudd(at)ffd2.com> |
Subject: | Re: AIR COMPRESSOR.. |
Hola Daniel,
There is a fair bit of information on compressors in the archives.
Horsepower is essentially worthless. The number comes from multiplying
the motor voltage times the amps it requires -- in other words, it tells
you how much power is going into the motor, not how much is coming out.
The important number is cfm (cubic feet per minute -- flow rate) at a
given psi. Things like drills and die grinders like high cfms (9 cfm
at 90 psi is a common number given) but 6cfm @ 90psi should be quite
adequate. If you don't use an air drill (many people use e.g. cordless
drills) then you can get by with even less -- rivet guns don't use much
air.
The size of the tank just determines how long you go before the motor
kicks in to pump up the tank. With a smaller tank, the motor will run
more frequently -- it's an annoyance factor. Things like drilling are
where you will notice it. Some people who buy a smaller compressor
get an extra tank.
Regarding oil-free verses oiled, everyone says the oil-free models are
very loud. A guy down the street from me recently got a Sears oil-free
two-stage compressor, and it is _quiet_ -- far quieter than my oiled
compressor. It does not generate the cfm's that mine does. I have
not experienced any other oil-free compressor.
Finally, there is one other thing to keep in mind: if you go through the
archives, you'll see a wide variety of opinions from people who use a wide
variety of compressors. The conclusion is that it is possible to build
the plane using just about any compressor. My suggestion to you is to see
what's available locally, and buy the best compressor that fits within
your budget (and your shop!).
-Steve
RV-8, waiting on wings
Los Alamos, New Mexico
On Tue, 19 Sep 2000, Daniel Estrada F. wrote:
> The lady told me that for that kind of tools (rivet gun, drills, paint guns,
> etc) I jus need a compressor whith only 2 horses of power.
>
> Do I really need only 2hp? or I need 4 hp?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Collision Avoidance |
I believe what he was trying to say was that if the target is holding the same
spot (reference point) on your wind screen, you are going to collide. If the
target moves, again in relation to that fixed spot, you will not collide.
Bruce
Glasair III
Fast Mover
kempthornes wrote:
>
> > > A flight instructor once told me (snip)
> > > that as long as it is a moving target, you will not collide.
>
> I once dived to avoid an aircraft approaching from my 3 oclock. He was
> really moving and I am sure we could have collided.
>
> The same should apply in a car. A car directly in front but stopped doesn't
> move, just gets bigger but one coming from you side is moving and can
> collide.
>
> Right?
>
> hal
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
Subject: | Collision Avoidance |
>> I should look for directional movement on an approaching target; if the
target is not moving across the windscreen or canopy, then it is on a
collision course.
>He's right. If your angle off stays the same, then you're traveling on
intersecting lines. The other aircraft stays in the same relative position
to you, it just gets bigger.
And these are the targets that are also the hardest to see, as the lack of
paralax makes it more difficlut to pick it out from the background. Keep
your heads up out there.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "J.Arnold" <j_arnold(at)swbell.net> |
Subject: | RE: ATC advisories question |
Chris,
I am not a approach controller, remember that the TCA is like an upside
wedding cake. The controller that gave you the 3000 is controller who gives
you the initial clearance and he is probobly not to the climb you to 3000.
Then they usually switch you to next departure controller who will then
assign you another altitude. It is really confusing watching approach guys
work because theie airspace is really strange and they can use different
rules the the center can. You need to visit your approach control to get a
bettter idea what they do. Then you will still be confused. Hell, I get
confused when I visit them and I have a lot of experience.
An Example is at DFW, before a jet aircraft even talks to us they might talk
to 3 different approach controllers before even make it to us.
I hope this didn't confuse you anymore, heck I still stay confused alot. :)
Jimmy Arnold
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "J.Arnold" <j_arnold(at)swbell.net> |
Subject: | ATC stuff, really off topic i think but funny ATC stuff |
I know I probably should be posting this here, but I found it pretty
humrous.If this is too much off topic let me know and I won't send anything
else like this
Aviation humer
Who says pilots and controllers have no sense of
humor? Following are accounts of actual exchanges
between airline and control towers from around the
world:
****************
The controller who was working a busy pattern
told the 727 on downwind to make a three-sixty (do a
complete circle, usually to provide spacing between
aircraft). The pilot of the 727 complained, "Do
you
know it costs us two thousand dollars to make a
three-sixty in this airplane?
Without missing a beat the controller replied,
"Roger, give me four thousand dollars worth!"
****************
A DC-10 had an exceedingly long roll out after
landing with his approach speed just a little too
high.
San Jose Tower: "American 751 heavy, turn right at
the end, if able. If not able, take the Guadeloupe
exit off of Highway 101 and make a right at the
light to return to the airport.
****************
It was a really nice day, right about dusk, and a
Piper Malibu was being vectored into a long line of
airliners in order to land at Kansas City.
KC Approach: "Malibu three-two-Charlie, you're
following a 727, one o'clock and three miles."
Three-two-Charlie: "We've got him. We'll follow
him."
KC Approach: "Delta 105, your traffic to follow is
a Malibu, eleven o'clock and three miles. Do you
have that traffic?"
Delta 105 (long pause and then in a thick southern
drawl): "Well...I've got something down there. Can't
quite tell if it's a Malibu or a Chevelle, though."
****************
Tower: "TWA 702, cleared for takeoff, contact
Departure on 124.7."
TWA 702: "Tower, TWA 702 switching to Departure ...
by the way, after we lifted off, we saw some kind of
dead animal on the far end of the runway."
Tower: "Continental 635, cleared for takeoff,
contact Departure on 124.7; did you copy the report
from TWA?"
Continental 635: "Continental 635, cleared for
takeoff roger; and yes, we copied TWA and we've
already notified our caterers."
****************
O'Hare Approach Control: "United 329 Heavy, your
traffic is a Fokker, one o'clock, 3
miles,eastbound."
United 329: "Approach, I've always wanted to say
this... I've got that Fokker in sight."
****************
The German air controllers at Frankfurt Airport
are a short-tempered lot. They not only expe one to know one's gate
parking location but how to
get there without any assistance from them. So it
was with some amusement that (a United A/L 777)
listened to the following exchange between
Frankfurt ground control and a British Airways 747
(call sign "Speedbird 206")
after landing:
Speedbird 206: "Top of the morning Frankfurt,
Speedbird 206 clear of the active runway."
Ground: "Guten morgen! You vill taxi to your
gate!"
The big British Airways 747 pulled onto the main
taxiway and slowed to a stop. Ground: "Speedbird, do you not know vare you
are
going?"
Speedbird 206: "Stand by a moment ground, I'm
looking up our gate location now."
Ground (with some arrogant impatience): "Speedbird
206, haff you never flown to Frankfurt before?!?"
Speedbird 206 (coolly): "Yes I have, in 1944. In
another type of Boeing and I didn't stop."
****************
It was a Pan Am 727 FE waiting for start
clearance in Munich, Germany. I was
listening to the radio since I was the junior
crewmember. This was the
conversation I overheard: (I don't recall call
signs any longer)
Lufthansa: (In German) "Ground, what is our
start clearance time?"
Ground: (In English) "If you want an answer you
must speak English."
Luft: (In English) "I am a German, flying a
German airplane, in Germany.
Why must I speak English?"
Beautiful English Accent: (before ground could
answer) "Because you lost the bloody war!"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net> |
Subject: | Re: Engine Vibration Mounts |
FYI. I have had Engine Vibration Mounts, part # EA DYNA VI-AEROBATIC on
order from Vans for 8 weeks and counting. Vans still claims that they are
due in on 25 Aug 00.
To be fair, I have checked with Aircraft Spruce and they do not have them
either.
For those of you who plan to mount your engine soon, be warned, order these
parts early.
If anyone has some they will not need in the near future, If you are willing
to sell, I would be interested in buying.
Bob Busick
Been Ready to Mount the Engine
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Carbon Fiber: Corrosive? |
In a message dated 9/20/00 7:08:36 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Emmanuelle.Richard(at)PSS.Boeing.com writes:
<< install the rivets wet to prevent them being corroded away. >>
Wet with what, water, resin or???
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
Subject: | Re: Engine Vibration Mounts |
Are most builders using the aerobatic mounts or the regular ones? Will the
aerobatic mounts lessen engine sag enough to accept the increase in perceived
vibrations? Are the regular mounts readily available?
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 N118KB (reserved)
assorted endless cockpit stuff
Bob Busick wrote:
>
> FYI. I have had Engine Vibration Mounts, part # EA DYNA VI-AEROBATIC on
> order from Vans for 8 weeks and counting. Vans still claims that they are
> due in on 25 Aug 00.
>
> To be fair, I have checked with Aircraft Spruce and they do not have them
> either.
>
> For those of you who plan to mount your engine soon, be warned, order these
> parts early.
>
> If anyone has some they will not need in the near future, If you are willing
> to sell, I would be interested in buying.
>
> Bob Busick
> Been Ready to Mount the Engine
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: hole in longeron |
--- Larry Hawkins wrote:
>
> I drilled two 1/4" dia. holes in the top longeron of my RV-4. They
> are off
> by 1/2". What do I do?
> lhawkins, RV-4 fuse, Farmington,NM
I'd just drill another hole in the right spot.
The longeron _is_ angle, after all, and I don't think the strength will
be affected - but if it worries you you could drill a short doubler
with holes in both places, then put a bolt in the misdrilled hole and a
longer-than-called-for bolt in the correct one.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
--- Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> Can anybody tell me anything good or bad about the Narco AT50A
> Transponder?
I hope it's all good 'cause I have one waiting for the panel work to
start!
:)
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Tonight 7 pm Osh 2000 on speedvision |
Just informed that tonight 7 pm Osh 2000 will be on speedvision.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Steve Judd <sjudd(at)ffd2.com> |
Subject: | Re: Collision Avoidance |
Hola,
On Wed, 20 Sep 2000, Bruce Gray wrote:
>
> I believe what he was trying to say was that if the target is holding the same
> spot (reference point) on your wind screen, you are going to collide. If the
> target moves, again in relation to that fixed spot, you will not collide.
What is amazing is that this is true for any straight-line motion,
including an accelerating target. It's only if you or the target is
turning (or somehow changing the direction of motion) that there can
be a problem.
If the target is executing a very tight turn, the best bet is probably
a quick barrel-roll to set up the deflection shot. But maybe now that the
move is over, Van's will _finally_ offer the Sidewinder wingtip option
(be sure to include the /S in your initial call to ATC).
/S
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
"'HCRV6(at)AOL.COM'"(at)matronics.com
Subject: | Carbon Fiber: Corrosive? |
How about primer !!
Ed Cole
Maxim Integrated Products
Bldg. 120 Ext. 6605
> -----Original Message-----
> From: HCRV6(at)AOL.COM [SMTP:HCRV6(at)AOL.COM]
> Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 9:40 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; Emmanuelle.Richard(at)PSS.Boeing.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Carbon Fiber: Corrosive?
>
>
> In a message dated 9/20/00 7:08:36 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> Emmanuelle.Richard(at)PSS.Boeing.com writes:
>
> << install the rivets wet to prevent them being corroded away. >>
>
> Wet with what, water, resin or???
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, working on canopy installation
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Field <jfield(at)pressenter.com> |
I'm about to install a new prop governor and I read that McCauley
recommends coating the gasket with Dow Corning #7 compound release agent or
equivalent. I'm new to engines. What is this stuff? Is there a substitute?
Where else should it be used. Thanks. John Field RV-4 Engine
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Carbon Fiber: Corrosive? |
"marcel de ruiter"
Carbon Fiber is very corrosive to aluminium. Make sure that aluminium is
etched and primer with a moisture sealing primer before it gets in contact
with carbon fiber.
Also for those who wish to use Anti-Static paint, this is carbon based and
therefore corrosive to aluminium.
Marcel de Ruiter
Aircraft-spraypainter
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | RV6 Pressure Tests? |
I'm wondering if anyone knows of pressure testing having been done on
the RV-6 airframe - real via tufts or simlated via computer or wind
tunnel.
I want to work out a way to exhaust the cabin air to both increase flow
and reduce outward pressure on the canopy (where it goes otherwise).
I know Van initially tried an exhaust vent behind the canopy in he
turtledeck - but this area turned out to be one of positive pressure
(which is _good_!). So where is negative pressure on the fuse?
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Dow Corning #7
Thread-Index: AcAjOMNxxD1Q/jPWRCmBumcx0VQVwAAABiww
From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
I believe they're referring to DC-4.
DC-4 is dielectric lubricant similar to the consistency of Vaseline, and
is a must-have in your toolbox. Your nearest aircraft supply place
should have it. A tube will last you a few years. The idea is to
lubricate the gasket so it is somewhat free to move around allowing the
gasket to stretch/move when you tighten things down, and helps keep the
gasket from sticking. I use it on all gaskets, in fact, Champion also
recommends it on oil filter seals.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 36 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: John Field [mailto:jfield(at)pressenter.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 1:38 PM
Subject: RV-List: Dow Corning #7
I'm about to install a new prop governor and I read that McCauley
recommends coating the gasket with Dow Corning #7 compound release agent
or
equivalent. I'm new to engines. What is this stuff? Is there a
substitute?
Where else should it be used. Thanks. John Field RV-4 Engine
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "EXT-Richard, Emmanuelle J" <Emmanuelle.Richard(at)PSS.Boeing.com> |
"'HCRV6(at)AOL.COM'"
Subject: | Carbon Fiber: Corrosive? |
"EXT-Richard, Emmanuelle J"
Graphite layup and aluminum rivets
It's galvanic corrosion, so you want to prevent moisture to get between the rivet
and the graphite. Install the rivets wet with sealant (the fuel tank sealant
should do the trick).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
Subject: | Re: Suggestions for dimpling in close quarters? |
RV-List Digest Server
Wow...MANY good ideas on the subject. Thanks to all who thoughtfully responded
to my
crayon-level question...very much appreciated. Pressing on...
Semper Fi
John
RV-6 (HS and VS finished...continuing on the control surfaces...)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
While we are on the subject of transponders, how about the King KT76C?
Factory overhauled units with tray and install kit for $1195 from Chief in
Oregon - no sales tax?
These are, I have heard, all digital and without the expensive cavity to
fail. Often, with digital devices, overhauled or refurbished means they
replaced the circuit board completely.
Which TXP is the best deal?
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
> Replacement cavities are pretty expensive so you if the signal strength
> is not high you're probably better off buying a Garmin
> transponder...they're only about $1200 and change
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
All:
FWIW, just got my fuse kit that was ordered at Oshkosh today. This is a
full 6 weeks in advance of their projected delivery date, and was shipped
out 3 days ahead of schedule.
Shipping charge from Oregon to Northeast Wisconsin was $186.23. Had a minor
glitch with the invoice which showed that I was charged twice. Thought
there for a minute that I had ordered two fuse kits by mistake! Sharon at
Van's was very helpful with clearing it up and was disappointed that I found
the error, as she said they had planned a heck of a party with the
over-charge! It is a delight to deal with staff members who have a sense of
humor. Just hope she remembers that she started it!
At any rate, once in awhile you hear of grumblings about the supposed poor
service from Van's and I thought the other side of the story needed to be
told. Scott if you are monitoring, thanks for a job that continues to be
well done.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
Fuselage....and awayyyyy we go!
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
Does the KT76C require an alt encoder for mode C?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of kempthornes
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2000 3:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Narco AT50A
While we are on the subject of transponders, how about the King KT76C?
Factory overhauled units with tray and install kit for $1195 from Chief in
Oregon - no sales tax?
These are, I have heard, all digital and without the expensive cavity to
fail. Often, with digital devices, overhauled or refurbished means they
replaced the circuit board completely.
Which TXP is the best deal?
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
> Replacement cavities are pretty expensive so you if the signal strength
> is not high you're probably better off buying a Garmin
> transponder...they're only about $1200 and change
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wingwalk rib attach |
Mark,
If I'm understanding the location correctly, this is the rivet that hits the
plate on the back side of the rear spar. If so, just continue the rivet
hole through the plate. Then enlarge just the hole in the plate so the
rivet will have room to expand.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 6:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wingwalk rib attach
>
> Howdy!
>
> _FINALLY_ installing two most inboard wing ribs (-6A). Plans sheet 14
> has a detail on the right side showing using LP4-3 poprivets at the
> center of the rear rib flange. C'mon now! I stick the rivet in the
> hole and there's 1/4" of rivet standing proudly out of the hole. Can
> this really work without doing some major distorting of the rear spar
> web even if the head of the rivet does pull down to the web? Stack some
> washers under the head to take up the slack? Whadoyado here?
>
> Thanks-
> From the PossumWorks
> Mark
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Please explain plain english AD? |
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Please explain plain english AD? |
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Collision Avoidance |
Collision Avoidance is a never-ending task!! As a newbie in 1967 I was
shooting TOLs at Bi-State Parks near St. Louis. I would take off, hang a
left, then another left to stay in the pattern for the next landing. Once,
on the downwind leg a shadow crossed me. Looking out my left window I
immediately saw a Piper recovering some air. He was below me - about half
way to tera firma. Perhaps, he saw me taking off and ASSUMED that I was
leaving the field. He may have been oblivious of me since I may have been
invisible under his approach (his low wing). Perhaps, I just checked for
traffic where it would "normally be". Perhaps I didn't check again after
the first left turn (my high wing). I don't know what happened. He must
have yanked up to avoid me and stalled the wing. Who knows??? Now, I
assume nothing.
Ernest Kells
RV-9A - Building Wings EAA: #430137
Plan: O-235/Wood Prop RAA:
Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario Email:
ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca
>
> > > A flight instructor once told me (snip)
> > > that as long as it is a moving target, you will not collide.
>
> I once dived to avoid an aircraft approaching from my 3 oclock. He was
> really moving and I am sure we could have collided.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John McMahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Remove blue markings newer skins |
Can any one on the list tell me how to remove
the blue marking on vans newer skins,,I've
tried everything so far and no good...???
Thanks
John McMahon (rv6 fwd side skins)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Sender / Floptube |
Greg
I ran into a problem where the ground of the sender did not make good
contact with the alu of the tank.
I mounted ground straps from the sender body so that i would have a
proper return connection.
When measuring from the sender body all looked fine but when measuring
from the center of the sender to the tank body I got high readings.
Gert
Greg Booze wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
> Two Questions
> 1) Just tested the resistance
> measurements on the S/W sender for my -8
> fuel tank. The readings were 30 ohms
> (full) and 245 (empty). The archives
> showed 33 full and 240 empty. Are my
> readings OK or should I readjust the
> sender?
> 2) After installing the trap door for
> the inverted tank, the flop tube moves
> freely without any interference except
> from the nut plates on the inspection
> plate. I plan to install a guard over the
> nut plates per the George O tapes but
> don't see any need to install the diagonal
> guard from the skin stiffener to the rib.
> Should I install this diagonal guard per
> the George O tapes or not?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Greg
> finishing -8 fuel tanks
> Rathdrum, ID.
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Remove blue markings newer skins |
I have found that lacquer thinner works quite well.
Chris Heitman
RV-9A
Wings
-----Original Message-----
Can any one on the list tell me how to remove
the blue marking on vans newer skins,,I've
tried everything so far and no good...???
Thanks
John McMahon (rv6 fwd side skins)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Remove blue markings newer skins |
John McMahon wrote:
>
>
> Can any one on the list tell me how to remove
> the blue marking on vans newer skins,,I've
> tried everything so far and no good...???
> Thanks
> John McMahon (rv6 fwd side skins)
Lacquer thinner, acetone, MEK, lantern fuel, etc...
Oh......make sure you remove the plastic first..... :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
Subject: | Re: Remove blue markings newer skins |
Use PPG DX533 aluminum conditioner and you'll never be bothered by the stuff
again.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "John McMahon" <rv6(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 10:36 PM
Subject: RV-List: Remove blue markings newer skins
>
> Can any one on the list tell me how to remove
> the blue marking on vans newer skins,,I've
> tried everything so far and no good...???
> Thanks
> John McMahon (rv6 fwd side skins)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard M Johnson" <bigfoot(at)saber.net> |
"RV-List Digest Server"
Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 77 Msgs - 09/19/00 |
I am building an RV8A here in Willits, California. I would like to know if
there are any other builder in the area? I am about 18 months into the
project and starting the wiring. I haven't been using the forum but would
like to start. If there are any flying RV8 close, I would appreciate a
visit . RV 2,4 and 6 are also welcome. There is an EAA chapter on the
field #1027 and you can check out the web page at
www.willitseea.homstead.com Chapter's meetings are on the first Sunday of
the month 2PM and lunch is free to fly in home builts.
I am on the Willits Airport hangar 2, 9 to 5. You can call to be sure I am
at the hangar 707 459 1380
You can contact me off line if you wish
Dick Johnson 8A Willits,Ca
www.bigfoot(at)saber.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
It can get exciting when you have a strong crosswind and have to use a lot of
rudder to keep it straight on the runway and the tailwheel turns with the
rudder.
I sure wouldn't do it!
Dave, 30 years of tailwheels (with springs)
bcbraem(at)home.com wrote:
>
> All--
>
> Bumped into Sam James at a breakfast fly-in a while back and he invited
> me over to his hangar at La Belle (X14) which is just 15 RV minutes from
> Venice, FL (KVNC) to look at his wheel fairings, as I am in need of a
> new pair. Long story, here
>
> Anyway, some of his friends showed up, and talk got around to reducing
> parasitic drag. One of the guys grabbed my tailwheel compression
> springs and asked if those things really did anything, useful, that is,
> besides slow me down. No one was really quite sure....
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Remove blue markings newer skins |
In a message dated 9/20/00 7:37:37 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv6(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< Can any one on the list tell me how to remove the blue marking on vans
newer skins,,I've tried everything so far and no good.. >>
John: FWIW I got my fuselage kit a year ago and there may be something
different going on now but I have found that Simple Green detergent used full
strength will remove all skin markings. Caution, awhile back someone
reported on this list that Simple Green is corrosive. Seems to work good for
me and I just rinse it off with lots of fresh water before drying and priming
the skins or whatever part I'm working on. I never use it on assembled parts.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | LeastDrag93066(at)AOL.COM |
What tail wheel springs?
I don't have any tail wheel steering springs. Nor tail wheel steering,
either.
My tail wheel is locked straight back, or unlocked and full swivelling. The
tail wheel lock/unlock lever is on the right side panel in the cockpit.
:-)
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Remove blue markings newer skins |
My favorite method is to use denatured alcohol. This stuff won't bother
your skin, won't cause liver damage like acetone will, and won't hurt your
parts or anything else it gets spilled on. Good ventilation would be
adviseable, however. Denatured alcohol is available at any place that sells
paint supplies, such as Home Depot.
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A N143DJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
Subject: | Re: Collision Avoidance |
Ernest--
Where you calling out your pattern turns?: "Bi-State traffic, Cessna
Three Three Tango turning crosswind (downwind, left base, final, etc.),
runway 14, touch and go, Bi-State".
>
>
> Collision Avoidance is a never-ending task!! As a newbie in 1967 I was
> shooting TOLs at Bi-State Parks near St. Louis. I would take off, hang a
> left, then another left to stay in the pattern for the next landing. Once,
> on the downwind leg a shadow crossed me. Looking out my left window I
> immediately saw a Piper recovering some air. He was below me - about half
> way to tera firma. Perhaps, he saw me taking off and ASSUMED that I was
> leaving the field. He may have been oblivious of me since I may have been
> invisible under his approach (his low wing). Perhaps, I just checked for
> traffic where it would "normally be". Perhaps I didn't check again after
> the first left turn (my high wing). I don't know what happened. He must
> have yanked up to avoid me and stalled the wing. Who knows??? Now, I
> assume nothing.
>
> Ernest Kells
> RV-9A - Building Wings EAA: #430137
> Plan: O-235/Wood Prop RAA:
> Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario Email:
> ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca
>
> >
> > > > A flight instructor once told me (snip)
> > > > that as long as it is a moving target, you will not collide.
>
> >
> > I once dived to avoid an aircraft approaching from my 3 oclock. He was
> > really moving and I am sure we could have collided.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 75 Msgs - 09/20/00 |
A friend is building an rv6. He upgraded to an RV8 tail and found some
differences which could be overcome. It is a bit larger and mounts
differently but will work.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "The Stribling's" <bbattery(at)bendcable.com> |
I have been reading from the list for the last year and just about all my
questions get answered before I do that task by others that ask my
questions, but I am waiting for the finishing kit and was wondering if any
one has used urathane like they glue windshields in cars with for the canopy
instead of drilling the holes that would crack the canopy.
Thanks Ken S. ,Finishing kit next week, first project --- canopy ---
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Remove blue markings newer skins |
Hi John,
I use laquer thinner and alot of elbow grease. Get it wet, wait a couple
minutes then hit it again.
Happy building
Kevin
-9A waiting for fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> |
Subject: | RV-8 cabin cover question... |
I'd like to mount my fuel gauges in the F-881PP Mid-Cabin Cover, but it
appears to be flat. I've seen one cover that has an angle to the gauges,
but can't find that in the drawings anywhere. Anyone out there in the same
boat? Is the angle cover a custom deal?
Thanks,
- Bill in Tucson
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Remove blue markings newer skins |
From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
It is highly corrosive. I wouldn't use it.
--
Shelby Smith
shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
N95EB - reserved
----------
>From: HCRV6(at)AOL.COM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, rv6(at)earthlink.net
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Remove blue markings newer skins
>Date: Thu, Sep 21, 2000, 12:10 AM
>
> reported on this list that Simple Green is corrosive.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 cabin cover question... |
>I'd like to mount my fuel gauges in the F-881PP Mid-Cabin Cover, but it
>appears to be flat. I've seen one cover that has an angle to the gauges,
Bill: The mid cabin cover in the 8A is slanted. Not sure about the 8. Perhaps
it was an 8A you remember seeing.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A (FWF)
O-360 Sensenich
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-8 cabin cover question... |
ITS A CUSTOM PANEL YOU CAN MAKE OUT OF SCRAP ALUM.
BILL
RV-8 WIRING
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
All the modern stuff interfaces with the "blind encoders" with what THEY
call gray scale.
It used 9 or10 wires to transmit to the Transponer. The real encodeing
altimiters have them built in.
They are big $. Now I think the latest stuff out is Blind with a serial
interface.( just 2 wires, but big $ again.)
Don Jordan -- 6A finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
writes:
>
> Does the KT76C require an alt encoder for mode C?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I got a used unit from ASOD with an encoder for $700.00. then it cost
$165.50 to fix it & found the encoder was trash. Then the new encoder was
$160.00. I am at $1025.50 now & I have a used unit.
the used C I think is a good deal.With $160.00 you would have $1355, but
it has more whistles & it does empress the girls.
Question: Do I have to certifiy for the 24 months when I get all this
stuuff up & running? Of course.
If I bought new, would I have to have it certified?
Don Jordan -- 6A finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
writes:
>
> While we are on the subject of transponders, how about the King
> KT76C?
> Factory overhauled units with tray and install kit for $1195 from
> Chief in
> Oregon - no sales tax?
>
> These are, I have heard, all digital and without the expensive
> cavity to
> fail. Often, with digital devices, overhauled or refurbished means
> they
> replaced the circuit board completely.
>
> Which TXP is the best deal?
>
> Hal Kempthorne
> RV6a N7HK
>
>
> > Replacement cavities are pretty expensive so you if the signal
> strength
> > is not high you're probably better off buying a Garmin
> > transponder...they're only about $1200 and change
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Remove blue markings newer skins |
>
> It is highly corrosive. I wouldn't use it.
> >
> > reported on this list that Simple Green is corrosive.
>
I too remember the post about simple green being corrosive. This was a
navy or airforce test and I don't remember how corrosive the test stated
Simple Green as being but it was not real corrosive. Sort of like lab
experiments on rats has proven to cause cancer in said rats.
But remember, Alumaprep is corrosive too, and a lot of us use
alumiprep. I would rate alumaprep as very corrosive and SG as basically
not corrosive at all. Should we not use Alumaprep? Heck, our
fingerprints are corrosive. The key to using SG or AP is to fresh water
rinse after using both products. Oh no, did I not read somewhere that
water was corrosive.....
--
Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado
RV-6A N99PZ Flying
Engine: Aerosport Power O-360-A1A with H2AD Pistons
Prop: Sensenich 72FM8S9-1-83
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Phonetic Alphabet |
From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
Any one know how to get a copy og the Phonetic Alphabet?
Cecil Hatfield
Thousand Oaks California
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Simple Green (wasRemove blue markings newer skins) |
In a message dated 9/21/00 8:40:17 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com writes:
<< It is highly corrosive. I wouldn't use it. >>
Hmmmm! I have lots of parts that have been in storage for over five years
since they were cleaned with Simple Green, thoroughly flushed with water, and
primed. Not a sign of corrosion anywhere. I have trouble understanding the
difference between this and the etching acids (very highly corrosive) that
many people use routinely? Can someone explain.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
Subject: | Phonetic Alphabet |
Try this:
http://www.soton.ac.uk/~scp93ch/morse/
Greg Tanner
RV-9A
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of cecilth(at)juno.com
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 9:47 AM
Subject: RV-List: Phonetic Alphabet
Any one know how to get a copy og the Phonetic Alphabet?
Cecil Hatfield
Thousand Oaks California
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Remove blue markings newer skins |
WHAT ? I've used simple green for years....on paint...and it's never shown
any signs of damage. I use is to get the rubber marks off of my paint after
every track event, and to clean my painted wheels, and just about everything
else on the planet. You sure it's corrosive? I admit that German paint is
pretty good stuff, but I've been subjecting mine to simple green for two
years now.....still looks great. Maybe I'll rethink that if you are SURE
it's that corrosive. What is in it that makes it so?
Bill
-4 wings
Porsche 951 street/track car
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 11:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Remove blue markings newer skins
>
> It is highly corrosive. I wouldn't use it.
>
>
> --
> Shelby Smith
> shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
> RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
> N95EB - reserved
>
> ----------
> >From: HCRV6(at)AOL.COM
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, rv6(at)earthlink.net
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Remove blue markings newer skins
> >Date: Thu, Sep 21, 2000, 12:10 AM
> >
>
> > reported on this list that Simple Green is corrosive.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
You don't need the tail springs if the distance from the rudder horn holes to
the tail wheel "horn" holes remains constant throughout the full range of rudder
movement.
Try blocking up the tail so the tail wheel can move freely. Temporarily replace
the chains and springs with pieces of string. Can you move the rudder throughout
it's full range without it being stopped by the string (or the string being
stretched)? If so, you can skip the springs.
Finn
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | : Phonetic Alphabet |
From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
> Any one know how to get a copy og the Phonetic Alphabet?
>
> Cecil Hatfield
> Thousand Oaks California
> RV6A
>
AIM para 4-37 (page 4-2-5) .
Don Jordan -- 6A finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chris Sheehan <ctsheehan(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Phonetic Alphabet |
alfa bravo charlie delta echo foxtrot golf hotel india juliett kilo lima
mike november oscar papa quebec romeo sierra tango uniform victor
whiskey xray yankee zulu
cecilth(at)juno.com wrote:
>
>
> Any one know how to get a copy og the Phonetic Alphabet?
>
> Cecil Hatfield
> Thousand Oaks California
> RV6A
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Phonetic Alphabet |
It's on the back of the yellow ruler you get when you renew your AOPA
membership.
In a message dated 9/21/00 11:48:45 AM Central Daylight Time,
cecilth(at)juno.com writes:
<<
Any one know how to get a copy og the Phonetic Alphabet?
Cecil Hatfield
Thousand Oaks California
RV6A
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Don" <don(at)dmack.net> |
Subject: | Re: Remove blue markings newer skins |
See http://www.simplegreen.com/pdf/aircraft.pdf for their official word on
it for aircraft.
Don Mack
RV-6A Finishing
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 10:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Remove blue markings newer skins
>
> WHAT ? I've used simple green for years....on paint...and it's never
shown
> any signs of damage. I use is to get the rubber marks off of my paint
after
> every track event, and to clean my painted wheels, and just about
everything
> else on the planet. You sure it's corrosive? I admit that German paint
is
> pretty good stuff, but I've been subjecting mine to simple green for two
> years now.....still looks great. Maybe I'll rethink that if you are SURE
> it's that corrosive. What is in it that makes it so?
>
> Bill
> -4 wings
> Porsche 951 street/track car
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
"'Don Jordan'"@matronics.com
Stark Avionics has a new in the box Garmin GTX-327 Digital Transponder
for $1220. Will work with ACK blind encoder.( $165) I wouldn't buy used gear
when the price is so close to new.
Ed Cole
RV6A Finish Kit
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Don Jordan [SMTP:dons6a(at)juno.com]
> Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 8:33 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Narco AT50A
>
>
>
> I got a used unit from ASOD with an encoder for $700.00. then it cost
> $165.50 to fix it & found the encoder was trash. Then the new encoder was
> $160.00. I am at $1025.50 now & I have a used unit.
>
> the used C I think is a good deal.With $160.00 you would have $1355, but
> it has more whistles & it does empress the girls.
>
> Question: Do I have to certifiy for the 24 months when I get all this
> stuuff up & running? Of course.
>
> If I bought new, would I have to have it certified?
>
> Don Jordan -- 6A finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
> **********************************************
September 15, 2000 - September 21, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-jh