RV-Archive.digest.vol-ji
September 21, 2000 - September 27, 2000
> writes:
> >
> > While we are on the subject of transponders, how about the King
> > KT76C?
> > Factory overhauled units with tray and install kit for $1195 from
> > Chief in
> > Oregon - no sales tax?
> >
> > These are, I have heard, all digital and without the expensive
> > cavity to
> > fail. Often, with digital devices, overhauled or refurbished means
> > they
> > replaced the circuit board completely.
> >
> > Which TXP is the best deal?
> >
> > Hal Kempthorne
> > RV6a N7HK
> >
> >
> > > Replacement cavities are pretty expensive so you if the signal
> > strength
> > > is not high you're probably better off buying a Garmin
> > > transponder...they're only about $1200 and change
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Phillips" <mphill(at)fgi.net> |
| Subject: | rv6 empennage kit |
For Sale, RV6 empennage kit (older style) construction complete other than
some minor finish work on tips. Excellent workmanship. Includes preview
manuals. reason for selling,i obtained wing and tail kit from other seller.
Reply on or off list.
mphill(at)fgi.net
217-566-2500
Mark E.Phillips
Williamsville,Illinois
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
Anybody have any opinions on the UPS SL-60 GPS/COM?
Greg Tanner
RV-9A
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Cole, Ed
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 10:53 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Narco AT50A
Stark Avionics has a new in the box Garmin GTX-327 Digital Transponder
for $1220. Will work with ACK blind encoder.( $165) I wouldn't buy used gear
when the price is so close to new.
Ed Cole
RV6A Finish Kit
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Don Jordan [SMTP:dons6a(at)juno.com]
> Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 8:33 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Narco AT50A
>
>
> I got a used unit from ASOD with an encoder for $700.00. then it cost
> $165.50 to fix it & found the encoder was trash. Then the new encoder was
> $160.00. I am at $1025.50 now & I have a used unit.
>
> the used C I think is a good deal.With $160.00 you would have $1355, but
> it has more whistles & it does empress the girls.
>
> Question: Do I have to certifiy for the 24 months when I get all this
> stuuff up & running? Of course.
>
> If I bought new, would I have to have it certified?
>
> Don Jordan -- 6A finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
> **********************************************
> writes:
> >
> > While we are on the subject of transponders, how about the King
> > KT76C?
> > Factory overhauled units with tray and install kit for $1195 from
> > Chief in
> > Oregon - no sales tax?
> >
> > These are, I have heard, all digital and without the expensive
> > cavity to
> > fail. Often, with digital devices, overhauled or refurbished means
> > they
> > replaced the circuit board completely.
> >
> > Which TXP is the best deal?
> >
> > Hal Kempthorne
> > RV6a N7HK
> >
> >
> > > Replacement cavities are pretty expensive so you if the signal
> > strength
> > > is not high you're probably better off buying a Garmin
> > > transponder...they're only about $1200 and change
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Phonetic Alphabet |
From the AIM...
http://www.faa.gov/ATPubs/AIM/Preface/tbl422.gif
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: <cecilth(at)juno.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 11:46 AM
Subject: RV-List: Phonetic Alphabet
>
> Any one know how to get a copy og the Phonetic Alphabet?
>
> Cecil Hatfield
> Thousand Oaks California
> RV6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Parsons" <dap(at)DParsons.com> |
Here is a website that has an interesting review about the whole UPS stack,
including the SL-60 GPS/COM.
http://www.chiefaircraft.com/Avionics/MfgAI/ApolloComparison.html
Don Parsons
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Greg Tanner
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 1:35 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Narco AT50A
Anybody have any opinions on the UPS SL-60 GPS/COM?
Greg Tanner
RV-9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Remove blue markings newer skins |
"marcel de ruiter"
MEK does the job
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Phonetic Alphabet |
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
Won, yesterday I spent an hour looking for my Airmans Manual. An hour and
a half looking on the Internet, my dictionary, and the archives. Today I
ask the question, and in 15 minutes, get 9 replys.
Thanks guys, What a resource this is.
Cecil
Hatfield
writes:
>
> alfa bravo charlie delta echo foxtrot golf hotel india juliett kilo
> lima
> mike november oscar papa quebec romeo sierra tango uniform victor
> whiskey xray yankee zulu
>
> cecilth(at)juno.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > Any one know how to get a copy og the Phonetic Alphabet?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Time in RV6 with CFI at OSWEGO FORUM |
FEW OPENINGS left FOR MIKE SEAGER
Training in RV at KFZY
To reply e-mail John directly to address:
John.Balbierer(at)nysyra.ang.af.mil
Openings left for
Sunday, 1 October: 0800, 0930, 1300.
1st come 1st serve.................
6th Annual Northeast RV Forum
September 30 - October 1, 2000
Oswego County Airport Fulton NY
KFZY
Just a reminder on the RV-List inviting people to the RV-Forum and Fly-in.
Link our web site:
http://www.web-flight.com/486/eaarvforum.htm
<http://www.web-flight.com/486/eaarvforum.htm>
Please pre-registered so our hand outs and food counts are more accurate.
As in the past got lots of things planned.
Hope to see you there
Respectfully
David McManmon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Simple Green - was Remove blue markings newer skins |
> See http://www.simplegreen.com/pdf/aircraft.pdf for their official word on
it for aircraft.
Great report. I suspect that some areas may have water that is more
corrosive! Along the coasts, salt water often 'intrudes' into wells.
This stuff is very effective so it is needed unless there is something
better and less corrosive - that is, what can we compare it to? Many
cleaners are corrosive to some extent. Who will test the alternatives?
If the cleaner gets between two layers of 2024T3 at a skin joint and
remains there for extended periods, especially in damp conditions, corrosion
might develop. I don't think there will be corrosion if it is dry so
flying after cleaning and rinsing and keeping the airplane as dry as
possible might be good. Keeping the paint sound at joints be good too.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Blind rivet decapitation |
What's the best way to trim off that extra bit of steel that sometimes protrudes
from a blind rivet? I have several of these around the forward part of the
canopy that I can't easily brush over with sand paper and a drimel tool accident
would ruin my day ( not to mention my canopy ).
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( windscreen fun )
O-360 Sensenich
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Weaver" <bweaver1(at)twcny.rr.com> |
| Subject: | RV-9 availability |
I've heard rumors that Van's is going to offer a RV-9 in addition to the
RV-9A?
Can anyone confirm?
Brian Weaver
Soon to be builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Phillips" <mphill(at)fgi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rv6 empennage kit |
This is the punched version
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <mphill(at)fgi.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 1:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: rv6 empennage kit
>
> For Sale, RV6 empennage kit (older style) construction complete other than
> some minor finish work on tips. Excellent workmanship. Includes preview
> manuals. reason for selling,i obtained wing and tail kit from other
seller.
> Reply on or off list.
> mphill(at)fgi.net
> 217-566-2500
> Mark E.Phillips
> Williamsville,Illinois
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jah" <jah(at)abraxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 cabin cover question... |
I think this is included in the 8A kit. You might call Van's and ask. I remember
seeing it on one of the 8A plans pages.
-Jeff
RV-8 Finish Kit ( Wheel Pants )
Atlanta, GA
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Bbrut55(at)AOL.COM
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 12:08:30 EDT
>
>ITS A CUSTOM PANEL YOU CAN MAKE OUT OF SCRAP ALUM.
>
>BILL
>RV-8 WIRING
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Blind rivet decapitation |
In a message dated 9/21/00 5:35:21 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com writes:
> What's the best way to trim off that extra bit of steel that sometimes
> protrudes
> from a blind rivet? I have several of these around the forward part of the
> canopy that I can't easily brush over with sand paper and a drimel tool
> accident
> would ruin my day ( not to mention my canopy ).
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8A ( windscreen fun )
> O-360 Sensenich
> N89JA reserved
Jim,
I'd suggest taking a centerpunch or some other pointy implement and pushing
them back into the hole. If you've got an automatic centerpunch, be careful
that you don't push so hard that the spring loaded feature kicks in.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Weight and Balance |
I have done two W&B's on my RV6A....once upon completion, again after
painting it. It scares the begeebers out of me to jack up high enough to
get it into a flight level attitude.
I plan to add some stuff to the plane soon and would again need to do a
W&B....what clever methods have you used to avoid getting the mains so high
that a slip off the pile of timbers (or whatever) would cause damage?
I thought of putting the mains on scales on the edge of the taxiway, and
digging a trench into the dirt just off the blacktop to run the nose wheel
into and up on another scale so that nothing is high enough to endanger me
or the plane.
Ideas?
RV6A Flying
Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Phillips" <mphill(at)fgi.net> |
| Subject: | duckworth lights |
The time has come to put the lights in the leading edge,since i dont have it
riveted to the spar yet. I must say that I'm pretty nervous cutting on a
perfectly good leading edge.Anybody got any pointers????
From the airplane factory in Williamsville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Blind rivet decapitation |
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com <Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com>
Date: Thursday, September 21, 2000 4:07 PM
Subject: RV-List: Blind rivet decapitation
>
>
>What's the best way to trim off that extra bit of steel that sometimes
protrudes
>from a blind rivet? I have several of these around the forward part of the
>canopy that I can't easily brush over with sand paper and a drimel tool
accident
>would ruin my day ( not to mention my canopy ).
>
>- Jim Andrews
>RV-8A ( windscreen fun )
>O-360 Sensenich
>N89JA reserved
>
There are two cases of protruding material:
Case 1) The body of the rivet has been extruded into the nosepiece of the
rivet puller because the nosepiece hole is larger than the mandrel diameter.
Every pop rivet puller, manual and pneumatic, that I have ever seen has this
problem. This case is very difficult to fix. Avoid this situation by
either a) fashioning a new nosepiece with a tight fit to the mandrel, or b)
using a small thin sheet piece, with the proper tight hole, spaced between
nosepiece and rivet when pulling.
Case 2) The mandrel breaks off above the head of the rivet. Grind a flat
end on a pulled mandrel and use it as a drift punch to drift the protruding
mandrel down beneath the head surface.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | test - disregard |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Weight and Balance |
-----Original Message-----
From: John <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Date: Thursday, September 21, 2000 6:08 PM
Subject: RV-List: Weight and Balance
>
>I have done two W&B's on my RV6A....once upon completion, again after
>painting it. It scares the begeebers out of me to jack up high enough to
>get it into a flight level attitude.
>
>I plan to add some stuff to the plane soon and would again need to do a
>W&B....what clever methods have you used to avoid getting the mains so high
>that a slip off the pile of timbers (or whatever) would cause damage?
>
>I thought of putting the mains on scales on the edge of the taxiway, and
>digging a trench into the dirt just off the blacktop to run the nose wheel
>into and up on another scale so that nothing is high enough to endanger me
>or the plane.
>
>Ideas?
>
>RV6A Flying
>Salida, CO
>
I would suggest you weight the added parts on a small balance, measure their
arms, and calculate the new weight and cg from the part weights and arms.
If you can estimate the arms to within 1/10 inch, you will find the
calculational method is far more accurate than weighing the plane. This is
because even certified aircraft scales cannot determine small weight
differences to the precision and accuracy of a small balance.
I will be facing this very problem in a week or so and I have hopes of
working out the math so that I can weigh the plane at any attitude and
compute the cg for level attitude. I just now measured the longerons of my
6A and they are 4.3 degrees off horizontal, nose high. If anyone has worked
out the math, including propagation of errors, I'd appreciate your inputs.
Leveling is very important to establish the cg accurately. If we assume the
cg is 40 inches above ground (just a guess on my part), an error of 1 degree
in leveling will introduce an error in cg location of 40 inches x tangent
(1 degree) = 0.7 inches -- that's a lot in terms of the narrow envelope of
an RV!
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 0.0 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Hi Jim and all,
Someone mentioned using a centerpunch to knock the mandrel back in. Personally
I wouldn't do that. You could loosen the rivet or knock the mandrel completely
out. Remember that the mandrel takes the shear load of the rivet. For your
problem I'd CAREFULLY use a carbide bit to grind it down.
During the construction of my RV, I found a way to prevent breaking the mandrel
off above the rivet head. When it started happening to me, I wondered why.
After a little investigation, I found the tip of the rivet puller had a hole in
it that was about .100, while the mandrel diameter is .076. Apparently the
oversize hole allows for a misalignment while your pulling the rivet. (At least
I think that's what is happening).
My solution was to use a small (1/2"x1/2") piece of .063 steel with a .080 hole
drilled in it. I use this between the rivet head and the puller on each rivet.
I haven't had one mandrel break above the rivet since I've started using that technique.
Hope it helps somebody.
Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 100 hrs
O-360, Sensenich (83)
Simi Valley, SoCal
In a message dated 9/21/00 5:35:21 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com writes:
> What's the best way to trim off that extra bit of steel that sometimes
> protrudes
> from a blind rivet? I have several of these around the forward part of the
> canopy that I can't easily brush over with sand paper and a drimel tool
> accident
> would ruin my day ( not to mention my canopy ).
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8A ( windscreen fun )
> O-360 Sensenich
> N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rvpilot" <rvpilot(at)coollink.net> |
Boyd,
The springs are necessary in order to account for the different amount of
travel each side makes when the rudder is deflected fully. Try it without
the springs and you will find that the rudder will bind before it hits the
stop(unless you have a WHOLE lot of slack in the chains)
There are two ways around this. You could go with a single push-pull rod as
some Pitts drivers have done. I dont favor this method since then you don't
have any slack in the system . A little slack is desirable to prevent over
sensitivity. Or, you could redesign the rudder horn (as I did on my last two
RV's) so that the attach point for the steering cables is in line with the
hinge axis of the rudder. This way the differential movement is eliminated.
Works great for me.
Bill RV-8 N48WD
----- Original Message -----
From: <bcbraem(at)home.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 3:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: speed mods
>
> All--
>
> Bumped into Sam James at a breakfast fly-in a while back and he invited
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: duckworth lights |
Mark,
I put these in each wingtip using a dremel tool and a small cutoff wheel
about 1" in diameter. I carefully placed the paper with the cutout on the
leading edge and marked it off with a sharpie. I must have rechecked the
location a dozen times! I then very carefully cut it out inside the line
using minimal pressure and just cutting in a little at a time. I used both
hands braced against the skin to keep it from binding and jerking to one
side. It took a while, but came out amazingly well. I then filed it to the
line and dressed it with a small scotchbrite wheel in a battery powered
drill. I used his technique with the packing tape to hold the lens in place
to drill the mounting holes. Came out fine.
Bill Christie, RV8A fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Phillips <mphill(at)fgi.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 4:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: duckworth lights
>
> The time has come to put the lights in the leading edge,since i dont have
it
> riveted to the spar yet. I must say that I'm pretty nervous cutting on a
> perfectly good leading edge.Anybody got any pointers????
>
> >From the airplane factory in Williamsville
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bobdz" <bobdz(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Phonetic Alphabet |
It's in FAR/AIM.
>
> Any one know how to get a copy og the Phonetic Alphabet?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
Finn Lassen wrote:
>
>
> You don't need the tail springs if the distance from the rudder horn holes to
> the tail wheel "horn" holes remains constant throughout the full range of rudder
> movement.
>
> Try blocking up the tail so the tail wheel can move freely. Temporarily replace
> the chains and springs with pieces of string. Can you move the rudder throughout
> it's full range without it being stopped by the string (or the string being
> stretched)? If so, you can skip the springs.
>
> Finn
>
The spring are also on to help reduce the stress on the rudder simply
from taxiing and turning corners.
I have a picture on my web site of some streamed lined rudder spring
covers that are built my Butch Malani of Medford, Oregon. Also notice
the
way he has streamlined his rudder horns.
http://www.teleport.com/~jsflyrv/BMalani1.jpg
http://www.teleport.com/~jsflyrv/Bmalani2.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Blind rivet-tip |
"Owens, Laird" wrote:
>
>
> Hi Jim and all,
>
> Someone mentioned using a centerpunch to knock the mandrel back in. Personally
I wouldn't do that. You could loosen the rivet or knock the mandrel completely
out. Remember that the mandrel takes the shear load of the rivet. For your
problem I'd CAREFULLY use a carbide bit to grind it down.
>
> During the construction of my RV, I found a way to prevent breaking the mandrel
off above the rivet head. When it started happening to me, I wondered why.
After a little investigation, I found the tip of the rivet puller had a hole
in it that was about .100, while the mandrel diameter is .076. Apparently the
oversize hole allows for a misalignment while your pulling the rivet. (At least
I think that's what is happening).
>
> My solution was to use a small (1/2"x1/2") piece of .063 steel with a .080 hole
drilled in it. I use this between the rivet head and the puller on each rivet.
>
> I haven't had one mandrel break above the rivet since I've started using that
technique.
>
> Hope it helps somebody.
>
> Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 100 hrs
> O-360, Sensenich (83)
> Simi Valley, SoCal
>
> In a message dated 9/21/00 5:35:21 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com writes:
>
> > What's the best way to trim off that extra bit of steel that sometimes
> > protrudes
> > from a blind rivet? I have several of these around the forward part of the
> > canopy that I can't easily brush over with sand paper and a drimel tool
> > accident
> > would ruin my day ( not to mention my canopy ).
> >
> > - Jim Andrews
> > RV-8A ( windscreen fun )
> > O-360 Sensenich
> > N89JA reserved
>
Hi Laird, got to disagree with you on this one, I don't think
the mandrel is considered part of the strength of a blind rivet.
these mandrels are fairly loose fit inside of the rivet and if
a rivet shifts enough to need the strength of the mandrel I think
there are other problems.
I have built a complete airplane out of "pop" rivets and punched
out most of the mandrels just to keep them from falling out and
rattling around the interior of the airplane.
JSpringer
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Time in RV6 with CFI at OSWEGO FORUM |
| From: | Michael D Hilger <rvsixer(at)juno.com> |
I am scheduled to fly with Mike on Oct 6 at Lebanon, TN. He told me he
only takes the -6 on the road cuz if you can handle a -6, a -6A is no
problem.
Mike Hilger
RV-6, N207AM
Inver Grove Hgts, MN
Hopefully flying in Oct
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Sheehan <ctsheehan(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Blind rivet-tip |
I vaguely recall Chris Heintz speaking at this year's Sun n Fun saying
that since you don't know for sure where the mandrel will break you
can't count on it contributing to the shear strength (but don't quote me
- my brain was getting full by this point!)
You can read more at http://www.zenithair.com/kit-data/ht-87-1.html
Chris Sheehan
Jerry Springer wrote:
>
>
> "Owens, Laird" wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi Jim and all,
> >
> > Someone mentioned using a centerpunch to knock the mandrel back in. Personally
I wouldn't do that. You could loosen the rivet or knock the mandrel completely
out. Remember that the mandrel takes the shear load of the rivet. For
your problem I'd CAREFULLY use a carbide bit to grind it down.
> >
> > During the construction of my RV, I found a way to prevent breaking the mandrel
off above the rivet head. When it started happening to me, I wondered why.
After a little investigation, I found the tip of the rivet puller had a hole
in it that was about .100, while the mandrel diameter is .076. Apparently
the oversize hole allows for a misalignment while your pulling the rivet. (At
least I think that's what is happening).
> >
> > My solution was to use a small (1/2"x1/2") piece of .063 steel with a .080
hole drilled in it. I use this between the rivet head and the puller on each
rivet.
> >
> > I haven't had one mandrel break above the rivet since I've started using that
technique.
> >
> > Hope it helps somebody.
> >
> > Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 100 hrs
> > O-360, Sensenich (83)
> > Simi Valley, SoCal
> >
> > In a message dated 9/21/00 5:35:21 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> > Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com writes:
> >
> > > What's the best way to trim off that extra bit of steel that sometimes
> > > protrudes
> > > from a blind rivet? I have several of these around the forward part of
the
> > > canopy that I can't easily brush over with sand paper and a drimel tool
> > > accident
> > > would ruin my day ( not to mention my canopy ).
> > >
> > > - Jim Andrews
> > > RV-8A ( windscreen fun )
> > > O-360 Sensenich
> > > N89JA reserved
> >
> Hi Laird, got to disagree with you on this one, I don't think
> the mandrel is considered part of the strength of a blind rivet.
> these mandrels are fairly loose fit inside of the rivet and if
> a rivet shifts enough to need the strength of the mandrel I think
> there are other problems.
> I have built a complete airplane out of "pop" rivets and punched
> out most of the mandrels just to keep them from falling out and
> rattling around the interior of the airplane.
>
> JSpringer
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
"John"
| Subject: | Re: Weight and Balance |
You have to do all weighting inside a closed hangar as air currents will
change the apparent weights. Remember airfoils generate lift!!!
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 6:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Weight and Balance
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John <fasching(at)amigo.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thursday, September 21, 2000 6:08 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Weight and Balance
>
>
> >
> >I have done two W&B's on my RV6A....once upon completion, again after
> >painting it. It scares the begeebers out of me to jack up high enough to
> >get it into a flight level attitude.
> >
> >I plan to add some stuff to the plane soon and would again need to do a
> >W&B....what clever methods have you used to avoid getting the mains so
high
> >that a slip off the pile of timbers (or whatever) would cause damage?
> >
> >I thought of putting the mains on scales on the edge of the taxiway, and
> >digging a trench into the dirt just off the blacktop to run the nose
wheel
> >into and up on another scale so that nothing is high enough to endanger
me
> >or the plane.
> >
> >Ideas?
> >
> >RV6A Flying
> >Salida, CO
> >
> I would suggest you weight the added parts on a small balance, measure
their
> arms, and calculate the new weight and cg from the part weights and arms.
> If you can estimate the arms to within 1/10 inch, you will find the
> calculational method is far more accurate than weighing the plane. This
is
> because even certified aircraft scales cannot determine small weight
> differences to the precision and accuracy of a small balance.
>
> I will be facing this very problem in a week or so and I have hopes of
> working out the math so that I can weigh the plane at any attitude and
> compute the cg for level attitude. I just now measured the longerons of
my
> 6A and they are 4.3 degrees off horizontal, nose high. If anyone has
worked
> out the math, including propagation of errors, I'd appreciate your inputs.
>
> Leveling is very important to establish the cg accurately. If we assume
the
> cg is 40 inches above ground (just a guess on my part), an error of 1
degree
> in leveling will introduce an error in cg location of 40 inches x tangent
> (1 degree) = 0.7 inches -- that's a lot in terms of the narrow envelope of
> an RV!
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 0.0 hours
> Hampshire, IL C38
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
list-aerobatic ,
list-avionics ,
list-ez , list-glasair ,
list-lancair ,
list-rocket
| Subject: | Pitot tube SPECIAL price |
Hello to the list,
I have just received a price increase from the manufacture of the AN5814
heated pitot tube. This is the heated pitot tube with the static source
in the pitot tube. I have a good supply of this pitot tube that I will
sell at the old (before price increase) price. The old price is $199,
this includes shipping in the US. After my current supply is gone, I
must increase my price to $206 which will also include shipping in the
US.
This will be on a first come first serve basis.
Check out my website for descriptions of this product and also my heated
pitot tube mounting bracket kits. You can purchase using your VISA or
MASTER CARD using my online order form, or call me in the evenings or on
weekends.
My website address is: http://www.gretzaero.com
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
303-770-3811 evenings and weekends (you may also leave a message other
times)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: duckworth lights |
| From: | Michael D Hilger <rvsixer(at)juno.com> |
I put mine in after the wings were complete except for tips. I used a
unibit at the corners, then a cutoff wheel, then filed to the line.
Before I started, I kinda wished I'd gotten the RMD lights, but the
Duckworks lights came out great. Get to it!
Mike Hilger
RV-6, N207AM
Almost done...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted French" <ted_french(at)canada.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider and Glue |
I used urethane to glue the windshield in. Works very well, but I hope to
God I don't ever have to remove it.
Ted
----- Original Message -----
From: "The Stribling's" <bbattery(at)bendcable.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 6:56 AM
Subject: RV-List: Slider and Glue
>
> I have been reading from the list for the last year and just about all my
> questions get answered before I do that task by others that ask my
> questions, but I am waiting for the finishing kit and was wondering if any
> one has used urathane like they glue windshields in cars with for the
canopy
> instead of drilling the holes that would crack the canopy.
>
> Thanks Ken S. ,Finishing kit next week, first project --- canopy ---
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Blind Rivet Tools (Was Blind Rivet Tip) |
New Builders,
Suggest you check out any new tool for operation, pulling several rivets in
test holes, before you use on valued components. My first "Made in China"
knock off tool occasionally clipped mandrels leaving some protruding, and
even before having fully set the rivet. The problem- the tool's gripping
serrations. The nearmost serrations to rivet head were too sharp, too long,
and gripping hardest, clipped off rather than just pulled the mandrel. (You
can also check for such "cheep" tool defect by inspecting a pulled mandrel's
grip marks.)
Good Building,
Jack Blomgren (The Skink Works)
Red Wing, MN
-8 Wings, N8VZ Reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tail wheel springs |
In a message dated 9/21/00 5:20:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rvpilot(at)coollink.net writes:
<< he springs are necessary in order to account for the different amount of
travel each side makes when the rudder is deflected fully. Try it without
the springs and you will find that the rudder will bind before it hits the
stop(unless you have a WHOLE lot of slack in the chains)
There are two ways around this. You could go with a single push-pull rod as
some Pitts drivers have done. I dont favor this method since then you don't
have any slack in the system . A little slack is desirable to prevent over
sensitivity. Or, you could redesign the rudder horn (as I did on my last two
RV's) so that the attach point for the steering cables is in line with the
hinge axis of the rudder. This way the differential movement is eliminated.
Works great for me .
>> Guys, I think you need those tail wheel
springs in a crosswind landing where you got a bunch of rudder in to hold the
plane straight and you`re about to set it down with the tail wheel cocked
over to one side, might break sonething.
Fred LaForge RV-4 EAA Tech C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-9 availability |
>>I've heard rumors that Van's is going to offer a RV-9 in addition to the
RV-9A?<<
I heard just the opposite, and for the following reason: it's not simply a
matter of adding main gear to the engine mount as is done on the -6. To
create a taildragger -9 they would need to design/engineer gear towers
something like what the -8 has, and that would be a significant undertaking.
That said, Van's has always responded to customer demand in the long run. If
the the 9A keeps selling like it has already started to (40 starts during
August alone), and they keep hearing demand for a taildragger, them I'm sure
they will respond, but it won't be soon. Hey, they gotta get the 4 place
going first!
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, cowling
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | RV-9 availability |
Since we're talking about the 9 here---does anybody on the list live pretty
close to Van's? I would like to find somebody that would be able to pick up
a kit during the week so I could come over from Cental Or on the weekend and
get it. I talked to vans and they said no way would anyone be around on a
saturday for a pickup.
Greg Tanner
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of RV-8.com-RL
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 7:09 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-9 availability
>>I've heard rumors that Van's is going to offer a RV-9 in addition to the
RV-9A?<<
I heard just the opposite, and for the following reason: it's not simply a
matter of adding main gear to the engine mount as is done on the -6. To
create a taildragger -9 they would need to design/engineer gear towers
something like what the -8 has, and that would be a significant undertaking.
That said, Van's has always responded to customer demand in the long run. If
the the 9A keeps selling like it has already started to (40 starts during
August alone), and they keep hearing demand for a taildragger, them I'm sure
they will respond, but it won't be soon. Hey, they gotta get the 4 place
going first!
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, cowling
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Davis" <jd(at)lri.sjhc.london.on.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Phonetic Alphabet |
Here's one for when you get bored with the old alfa-bravo-charlie:
A Are N Nine
B Bee O Owe
C Cite P Pseudonym
D Double-U Q Queue
E Eye R Rap
F Five S Sea
G Genre T Tsunami
H Hoe U Understand?
I I V Vie
J Junta W Why
K Knot X Xylophone
L Lye Y You
M Me Z Zero
Regards, J.
| J. Davis, M.Sc. (comp_sci) | email: jd(at)uwo.ca |
| SysMgr, research programmer | voice: (519) 646 6100 x64166 |
| Lawson Research Institute | fax: (519) 646 6135 |
| London, Ontario | lriweb.sjhc.london.on.ca/~jd |
I got food poisoning today. I don't know when I'll use it.
--- Steven Wright
On Thu, 21 Sep 2000, bobdz wrote:
>
> It's in FAR/AIM.
> >
> > Any one know how to get a copy og the Phonetic Alphabet?
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | RV8A: F811 and F812 ribs |
Hi folks
I am having a hard time getting my F 811 and F 812 bulkheads to lay flat
back to back.
The problem as I see it are the puckered upwards areas around the places
where the main longerons go.
These areas were formed when the bulkhead was formed and now prevent the
two bulkheads to be back to back.
I don't know about the F 812 bulkheads but the bars which will hold the
tail to the F 811 bulkheads are now not perpendicular.
So, ye wise men who have gone before me, how have ye flattended the
F-811 bulkheads enough to have them flat back to back ??
Thanks
Gert
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9 availability |
I live right across the street from vans..if that would
help...503-678-3343...jolly in aurora, or.
Greg Tanner wrote:
>
> Since we're talking about the 9 here---does anybody on the list live pretty
> close to Van's? I would like to find somebody that would be able to pick up
> a kit during the week so I could come over from Cental Or on the weekend and
> get it. I talked to vans and they said no way would anyone be around on a
> saturday for a pickup.
>
> Greg Tanner
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of RV-8.com-RL
> Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 7:09 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; Brian Weaver
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-9 availability
>
>
> >>I've heard rumors that Van's is going to offer a RV-9 in addition to the
> RV-9A?<<
>
> I heard just the opposite, and for the following reason: it's not simply a
> matter of adding main gear to the engine mount as is done on the -6. To
> create a taildragger -9 they would need to design/engineer gear towers
> something like what the -8 has, and that would be a significant undertaking.
>
> That said, Van's has always responded to customer demand in the long run. If
> the the 9A keeps selling like it has already started to (40 starts during
> August alone), and they keep hearing demand for a taildragger, them I'm sure
> they will respond, but it won't be soon. Hey, they gotta get the 4 place
> going first!
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, #80500, cowling
> www.rv-8.com
> Home Wing VAF
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | notes from TVRVBG meeting |
I just returned from our September meeting of the Tennessee Valley RV
Builders Group. Some of you may get a kick out of seeing some incredible
metal work that will eventually end up on an RV-6A:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/tvrvbg/barn.htm
Also, The TVRVBG is co-hosting a fly-in with the EAA Chapter 941 at DCU
(Decatur, AL) on October 14th. We would LOVE to see a bunch of RVs
arrive to impress the locals with what quality homebuilt aircraft are
all about.
Guest RV pilots will be treated to lunch, and a .25/gallon fuel discount
will be offered. DCU is located just 16 miles from the world famous
Space and Rocket Center in Huntsville, and anyone wearing a fly-in badge
will get a $2 discount on admission. Transportation will be provided and
rental cars are also available on the field.
The local Country Inn and Suites is offering their $88 rooms for $55 to
fly-in participants with transportation provided.
This is a low key, laid back fly-in with hopefully great weather and
lots of RV lies swapped. DCU is the home aerodrome for the Alabama
Redneck Gang of "Westward Ho!" fame, and will be semi-staffed by the
rabid members of the TVRVBG.
More details will be forthcoming (as we figure them out) and you can
visit the TVRVBG web site for current info and email links:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/tvrvbg
Hope to see you there!
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
| Subject: | AIM, Was: Phonetic Alphabet |
>
>Won, yesterday I spent an hour looking for my Airmans Manual. An hour and
>a half looking on the Internet, my dictionary, and the archives. Today I
>ask the question, and in 15 minutes, get 9 replys.
No need to spend a lot of time looking for your copy of the manual, much
easier to go online at:
http://www.faa.gov/ATpubs/AIM/index.htm
Those who have been following the ATC/Advisories thread will find
everything you ever wanted to know about the right way to get ATC service
here too. That's why they call it the AIM, I guess.
- Mike
hartmann(at)sound.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: duckworth lights |
I just did mine a few weeks ago with a dremel and 1 inch cutoff wheel. I ran
the tool at max speed, and went verrrryyyy slowly. I was concerned about the
wheel catching and creasing the skin, but this never happened, even in corners.
I made a first rough cut 1/8 inch in from the pattern line, then went back and
made it look nice. A little filing and a fair bit of elbow grease and emery
cloth made it turn out very nicely. I stayed away from the 1 inch scotchbtite
wheel (which I use extensively elsewhere) because this is a high visiblity item,
and I wanted to look as perfect as I could make it, and it's too easy to slip
and take too much off with the scotchbrite wheel.
Jeff Point
-6 wings
Milwaukee, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop tip paint? |
> What about all of those polished aluminum props? I see a lot of those
> unpainted.
> Randall ???
While my prop is polished, my tips are painted with a detail that matches
the paint. I always thought it was required to do something on the tips but
from other postings I guess it isn't except for pushers. At any rate I kind
of like the look better with something on the tips.
As for balance, the guy that painted my plane is the one who did the paint
removal and polishing of the prop. He'd done a number of them before and
really seems to have it down to a science. He told me he's careful to not
un-balance the thing. The blades are fairly rough under the paint so they
had to be wet sanded before polishing. I don't know how well he can really
tell how much he's taking off, but I had it balanced later just to be sure,
and it turned out to be quite well balanced. They only were able to tweak it
a teeny bit better, but it made me feel better just knowing.
One thing though -- I happened to mention to a Hartzell rep at OSH that my
prop was polished and he told me that voids the warranty. Hmph.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~150 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larygagnon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Kuntzleman Electronics HOT BOX |
I agree. I have one in my Kitfox and while excellent for that Rotax powered
plane it does not have the capacity or flexibility needed for the Lycoming.
Larry Gagnon
Model 4/912 N102LG
RV6 Fuselage N6LG (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6A QB Slider Project for Sale |
I've had enough. I am just to anal and to slow, so I've decided to buy
and fly and let the project go. My loss is your gain - a reasonable
builder could be finished in 6 months, or less. Airframe is almost
complete, its on the gear with the engine mounted, and 90% FWF.
Includes VFR instruments.
Located in Atlanta. Contact me offlist for details.
Chris Browne
cebrowne(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: duckworth lights |
Mark: Just one more success story to send you off in another direction :-)
Mine is a quick build kit so my wings were completely done when I decided to
install my lights. I just laid out the pattern and checked it five or six
times, and then got someone else to check it for me ( no room for error here )
and whipped out the unibit and sheers and started cutting away. I was able to
easily remove all the material within an eighth of an inch of my line. The rest
I did with a two inch scotch bright wheel on a straight die grinder attachment.
They turned out remarkably well. Not a scratch out side the lines and all the
surfaces were practically polished by the scotch bright wheel.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( windscreen fun )
O-360 Sensenich
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
"'RV-List Digest Server'"
| Subject: | fixing canopy squeaks |
I used urethane to glue the windshield in. Works very well, but I hope to
God I don't ever have to remove it.
My first RV-4 canopy was built per plans. It squeaked and groaned terribly
whenever it was moved.
The next canopy was also built per plans except I put a thin bead of clear
silicone caulk wherever the aluminum and the plexiglas touched. Do this
immediately before pulling the pop rivets. I wiped off the excess
immediately using water and/or IPA. The canopy never squeaked and seemed
much more solid.
Yeah, I can feel the flames already, but the silicone didn't corrode
anything that I can see, and it's one less water leak to worry about.
I suppose that you could use some sort of soft sticky tape to do the same
thing. Check the automotive supply stores or Home Depot Aircraft Supply!
I plan to do the same when I build the HRII canopy. The silicone was quick,
cheap, worked well, and could be removed if needed.
Vince in Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
I'm in the process of ordering my instruments & avionics and a question
has arisen about attitude gyros. Simply put: Is the extra $400 for a
cageable gyro money well spent? I'm planning on getting a Sigma-Tek
with the 8 degree panel tilt.
Would simple rolls, loops, half cubans, etc. damage a non-cageable gyro?
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 N118KB (reserved)
assorted endless cockpit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 cabin cover question... |
"Gardner, Douglas (GA01)"
The -8A does have these cabin covers, which I made the cutouts from the fuel
level.
However in order to avoid cutting into the longeron the dimensions are
critical.
If you want I can measure and report back, as I spent some time getting this
right.
After talking to other -8A builders I opted not to mount the fuel gauges
down there due
to the wiring complexity and the need to have those on the panel for
scanning reasons.
Doug Gardner 80717 -8A
FWD back/Final assembly
Palm Harbor Fla
-----Original Message-----
From: jah [mailto:jah(at)abraxis.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 6:05 PM
Bbrut55(at)AOL.COM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 cabin cover question...
I think this is included in the 8A kit. You might call Van's and ask. I
remember seeing it on one of the 8A plans pages.
-Jeff
RV-8 Finish Kit ( Wheel Pants )
Atlanta, GA
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Bbrut55(at)AOL.COM
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 12:08:30 EDT
>
>ITS A CUSTOM PANEL YOU CAN MAKE OUT OF SCRAP ALUM.
>
>BILL
>RV-8 WIRING
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Wing-tip landing lights & wig-wag flasher |
Hi All...
I have the wig-wag flasher details posted that I was talking about the other
day, along with the wing-tip landing light installation... Here a GOOD link
this time :)
http://vondane.com/rv8a/ideas/index.htm
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Wings
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: duckworth lights |
Jeff Point wrote:
>
>
> I just did mine a few weeks ago with a dremel and 1 inch cutoff wheel. I ran
> the tool at max speed, and went verrrryyyy slowly. I was concerned about the
> wheel catching and creasing the skin, but this never happened, even in corners.
> I made a first rough cut 1/8 inch in from the pattern line, then went back and
> made it look nice. A little filing and a fair bit of elbow grease and emery
> cloth made it turn out very nicely. I stayed away from the 1 inch scotchbtite
> wheel (which I use extensively elsewhere) because this is a high visiblity item,
> and I wanted to look as perfect as I could make it, and it's too easy to slip
> and take too much off with the scotchbrite wheel.
Good advice.
For those of you who are too nervous to install the Duckwork lights,
just put that task aside for awhile.
After you have built the canopy, installing the Duckwork lights will be
NOTHING!! :-)
The Duckworks are a lot less involved than the wing tip installation,
and work very well.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 wig-wagged by two Duckworks and Gall's flasher)
"The RV Journal" http;//home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
"'RV-List Digest Server'"
| Subject: | pop rivet protruding mandrels |
What are people doing with the MK-319-BS flush monel rivets? The
mandrel
seems loose enough to rattle around and drives out very easily.
When I have a rivet mandrel sticking out I either hit it with the automatic
center punch (preferred) or grind it down with the dremel if it's stubborn.
As far as loose mandrels rattling around, well, they won't hurt anything but
can easily be fixed. Go to the automotive paint store and buy a tube of the
silver colored windshield sealant made by 3M, IIRC. Punch or grind down the
mandrels as needed. Squirt a small dab into each pop rivet mandrel hole from
the top. This will glue the mandrel in place. Wipe off the excess
immediately with a solvent dampened paper towel. You'll be sorry if you
don't 'cause the dried rubbery stuff won't go anywhere! You should have a
nice looking filled rivet that requires no further attention... EVER. You
can paint right over it or if you polish the plane nobody will notice the
silver color. If anyone does notice, kick them square in the butt.
Vince in Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Protective vinyl tubing?? |
According to 43.13 it is not acceptable to run wiring thru tubing. Conduit is
OK of course.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> |
| Subject: | F442 mounting pad |
trying to build the F442 mount pads for my RV4. can anyone tell me how to
bend that angle the 5 degrees that the plan calls for.
lhawkins RV4 fuse Farmington nm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: test - disregard |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
10-4
On Thu, 21 Sep 2000 13:36:18 HST "Mike Robertson"
writes:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cageable gyro? |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>I'm in the process of ordering my instruments & avionics and a question
>has arisen about attitude gyros. Simply put: Is the extra $400 for a
>cageable gyro money well spent? I'm planning on getting a Sigma-Tek
>with the 8 degree panel tilt.
>
>Would simple rolls, loops, half cubans, etc. damage a non-cageable gyro?
>
>--
As for damage, there seems to be a difference of opinion on that.
However, I believe that is the attitude indicator I have and the caging
is momentary only. It is useful for more quickly errecting a tumbled
gyro, but it is not possible to lock it into a caged position.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "<Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com> |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Fri,
22 Sep 2000 11:44:47.-0400(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: fixing canopy squeaks |
22 Sep 2000 11:44:47.-0400(at)matronics.com
Round these here parts lots of builders do a removable glass frame. Its held on
on the bottom with rivnuts and then just prosealed on on top. If you ever have
to remove the front frame just use a long blade between the canopy (which would
be broken) and the frame and it will cut loose; eventually.
Eric Henson
S. Florida
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider and Glue |
Using wax paper I fiber glassed a form around the
lower front of the wind shield and a seperate one over
the rollbar. Tapped the rollbar and screwed the fiber
glass and windshield down about every 4" with
stainless steel decorative washers. Used nuts and
bolts on the leading bottom edge. Comes on and off
easy and no leaks with a little outdoor clear window
sealer.
Joe RV6A 100hrs, back for the winter and flying again.
For more info jwiza1(at)yahoo.com
--- Ted French wrote:
>
>
> I used urethane to glue the windshield in. Works
> very well, but I hope to
> God I don't ever have to remove it.
>
> Ted
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "The Stribling's" <bbattery(at)bendcable.com>
> To: ; "Jim Bower"
>
> Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 6:56 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Slider and Glue
>
>
>
> >
> > I have been reading from the list for the last
> year and just about all my
> > questions get answered before I do that task by
> others that ask my
> > questions, but I am waiting for the finishing kit
> and was wondering if any
> > one has used urathane like they glue windshields
> in cars with for the
> canopy
> > instead of drilling the holes that would crack the
> canopy.
> >
> > Thanks Ken S. ,Finishing kit next week, first
> project --- canopy ---
> >
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: duckworth lights |
In a message dated 9/21/00 4:18:13 PM Pacific Daylight Time, mphill(at)fgi.net
writes:
<< The time has come to put the lights in the leading edge,since i dont have
it
riveted to the spar yet. I must say that I'm pretty nervous cutting on a
perfectly good leading edge.Anybody got any pointers????
>>
When I did mine, also for Duckworks, I used my Unibit to cut the corners and
a
Dremel with a cutoff wheel in between. Always cut inside the final lines and
use a smooth file and sandpaper to finish. Worked for me.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, hanging empennage (taking a break from canopy cutting)
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 9/21/00 5:50:16 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jsflyrv(at)teleport.com writes:
<< I have a picture on my web site of some streamed lined rudder spring
covers that are built my Butch Malani of Medford, Oregon. Also notice
the way he has streamlined his rudder horns. >>
Jerry: Any idea what the long tube hanging under Butch's tail spring is for?
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail wheel springs |
Also, think about the takeoff roll when you need right rudder to counteract the
engine torque,P factor etc - do you really want the wheel to turn too?
Dave
Ferdfly(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> In a message dated 9/21/00 5:20:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> rvpilot(at)coollink.net writes:
>
> << he springs are necessary in order to account for the different amount of
> travel each side makes when the rudder is deflected fully. Try it without
> the springs and you will find that the rudder will bind before it hits the
> stop(unless you have a WHOLE lot of slack in the chains)
>
> There are two ways around this. You could go with a single push-pull rod as
> some Pitts drivers have done. I dont favor this method since then you don't
> have any slack in the system . A little slack is desirable to prevent over
> sensitivity. Or, you could redesign the rudder horn (as I did on my last two
> RV's) so that the attach point for the steering cables is in line with the
> hinge axis of the rudder. This way the differential movement is eliminated.
> Works great for me .
> >> Guys, I think you need those tail wheel
> springs in a crosswind landing where you got a bunch of rudder in to hold the
> plane straight and you`re about to set it down with the tail wheel cocked
> over to one side, might break sonething.
>
> Fred LaForge RV-4 EAA Tech C.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Protective vinyl tubing?? |
In a message dated 9/22/00 9:36:07 AM Central Daylight Time,
JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM writes:
<<
According to 43.13 it is not acceptable to run wiring thru tubing. Conduit
is
OK of course. >>
Please read AC 43.13-1B Section 8. Wiring Installation Inspection
Requirements and Section 18. Conduits
Cash Copeland
QB #60075
RV-6 N46FC (Reserved)
Oakland, Ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RotorMac(at)AOL.COM |
Hello Listers,
Does anyone know where I can acquire a checklist and POH for a RV-3A?
Thanks,
Mac
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Metal Knobs for Throttle & Mixture controls |
Hi,
Before I do some custom machining to make some metal knobs for my
throttle & mixture controls for my RV-6, can someone tell me if they are
available somewhere as an off the shelf product? I spoke with the
manufacturer(ACS products) regarding these controls, and don't make
metal knobs for these controls.
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RotorMac(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Checklist and POH |
Hello Listers,
Does anyone know where I can acquire a checklist and POH for a RV-3A?
Nothing in archives for the RV-3. Appreciate any answers.
Thanks,
Mac
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Time in RV6 with CFI at OSWEGO FORUM |
>
>FEW OPENINGS left FOR MIKE SEAGER
>Training in RV at KFZY
>To reply e-mail John directly to address:
>
>John.Balbierer(at)nysyra.ang.af.mil
>
> Openings left for
>Sunday, 1 October: 0800, 0930, 1300.
>1st come 1st serve.................
>
>6th Annual Northeast RV Forum
>September 30 - October 1, 2000
>Oswego County Airport Fulton NY
>KFZY
>
>Just a reminder on the RV-List inviting people to the RV-Forum and Fly-in.
>
>Link our web site:
>http://www.web-flight.com/486/eaarvforum.htm
><http://www.web-flight.com/486/eaarvforum.htm>
>
>Please pre-registered so our hand outs and food counts are more accurate.
>
>As in the past got lots of things planned.
>
>Hope to see you there
>Respectfully
>David McManmon
>
>
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo
(570)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George True <true(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Metal Knobs for Throttle & Mixture controls |
Glenn,
Check out Beechhurst Industries, www.beechhurst.com.
George True
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
> Hi,
> Before I do some custom machining to make some metal knobs for my
> throttle & mixture controls for my RV-6, can someone tell me if they are
> available somewhere as an off the shelf product? I spoke with the
> manufacturer(ACS products) regarding these controls, and don't make
> metal knobs for these controls.
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Phillips" <mphill(at)fgi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: duckworth lights |
thanks for the tips Jim. Everything came out alright last night other than i
was totally exhausted.hehe
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com>
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2000 9:02 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: duckworth lights
>
>
> Mark: Just one more success story to send you off in another direction :-)
>
> Mine is a quick build kit so my wings were completely done when I decided
to
> install my lights. I just laid out the pattern and checked it five or six
> times, and then got someone else to check it for me ( no room for error
here )
> and whipped out the unibit and sheers and started cutting away. I was
able to
> easily remove all the material within an eighth of an inch of my line.
The rest
> I did with a two inch scotch bright wheel on a straight die grinder
attachment.
> They turned out remarkably well. Not a scratch out side the lines and all
the
> surfaces were practically polished by the scotch bright wheel.
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8A ( windscreen fun )
> O-360 Sensenich
> N89JA reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Stewart <bruces(at)shoalhaven.net.au> |
Hi All,
I've been pouring over the pre view set and I can't see where exactly
the trim control (lever) is installed? (not on the drawings I got anyway).
???
Thanks
Bruce
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Phillips" <mphill(at)fgi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: duckworth lights |
Thanks for the tip,Harry. Did one wing last night and went to bed totally
exhausted. I thought i'd screw it up for sure. Damn that learning curve. Now
the other wing will be perfect. Thanks again!!!!!
----- Original Message -----
From: <HCRV6(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2000 1:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: duckworth lights
>
> In a message dated 9/21/00 4:18:13 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
mphill(at)fgi.net
> writes:
>
> << The time has come to put the lights in the leading edge,since i dont
have
> it
> riveted to the spar yet. I must say that I'm pretty nervous cutting on a
> perfectly good leading edge.Anybody got any pointers????
> >>
> When I did mine, also for Duckworks, I used my Unibit to cut the corners
and
> a
> Dremel with a cutoff wheel in between. Always cut inside the final lines
and
> use a smooth file and sandpaper to finish. Worked for me.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, hanging empennage (taking a break from canopy cutting)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Repairman's Certificate |
Ok, dumb question time.
When I had my RV inspected (in late May) for it's air worthiness certificate,
the inspector looked at my construction logs and photos. During the confusion
of the day, I forgot to ask how to go about getting my repairmans cert. I see
that he gave me a rating application form (FAA Form 8610-2) but it's just a
blank application.
I want to get this taken care of before the first condition inspection. I sure
hope there's no time window that I've blown thru.
I assume I have to turn this form into the local FSDO but I'm a little confused
about the form. Do I need the DAR to sign it?
I think I can fill everything out in section I, but it's section II and III thats
got me.
Can anyone help me thru this.
Thanks,
Laird
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A QB Slider Project for Sale |
In a message dated 9/22/00 8:28:23 AM Central Daylight Time,
cebrowne(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< I've had enough. I am just to anal and to slow, >>
Chris, being a bit anal and slow makes for a great airplane! You can always
rent while your building. Hope you don't give it up but if you must I'm sure
someone will be happy to benefit from all of your conscientious hardwork on
the RV. Good luck with what ever you buy.
Dale Ensing Cary Illinois
RV-6A O-360 (finishing details)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: re:trim control |
Don't know which pre-plans you are studying, but......
On the 6/6a the manual aileron trim is between the seats. Here is a good
photo from Sam's site that shows the setup.
<http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/fuse9.html>
The manual elevator trim can be mounted in various positions either on the
instrument panel, on the center support, or on a bracket just ahead of the
fuel selector valve. Here's a good shot of where Sam put his on the center
support.
<http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/finish3.html>
The rudder generally has a fixed tab to trim it in cruise, so no levers
needed here.
And of course if you go electric on the trims, the switches are mounted
either on the instrument panel, control stick grip, or wherever your
imagination takes you!
Sounds like it is time to order an empennage!
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Stewart <bruces(at)shoalhaven.net.au>
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2000 5:19 PM
Subject: RV-List: re:trim control
>
> Hi All,
>
> I've been pouring over the pre view set and I can't see where exactly
> the trim control (lever) is installed? (not on the drawings I got anyway).
>
> ???
>
> Thanks
> Bruce
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Phillips" <mphill(at)fgi.net> |
| Subject: | duckworth interior |
Should the inside of the duckworths light installation be painted or left
bare aluminum. Reflectivity tells me not to. What do you think?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Mac, I haven't seen one for a -3. I have one that I am in the middle of
developing for an -8A. I could try and send it to you if you think it would
help.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
First engine run done. Timer to weigh and get the paperwork in.
>From: RotorMac(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, RotorMac(at)AOL.COM
>To: rv3-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Checklist
>Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 17:22:22 EDT
>
>
>Hello Listers,
>
>Does anyone know where I can acquire a checklist and POH for a RV-3A?
>
>Thanks,
>Mac
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Repairman's Certificate |
I didn't have anyone sign mine..the FAA inspector just said that AFTER I had
flown off my restriction time to submit it. I did, and it came very soon
thereafter.
RV6A Flying Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: duckworth interior |
Mark: Painted mine Bright White as it looks better when viewed through the
Lens when the plane is stationary. I have done this when restoring cars as
it makes for brighter running and parking lights to also paint the
reflector.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Phillips <mphill(at)fgi.net>
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2000 7:16 PM
Subject: RV-List: duckworth interior
>
> Should the inside of the duckworths light installation be painted or left
> bare aluminum. Reflectivity tells me not to. What do you think?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: duckworth interior |
Mark: Painted mine Bright White as it looks better when viewed through the
Lens when the plane is stationary. I have done this when restoring cars as
it makes for brighter running and parking lights to also paint the
reflector.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Phillips <mphill(at)fgi.net>
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2000 7:16 PM
Subject: RV-List: duckworth interior
>
> Should the inside of the duckworths light installation be painted or left
> bare aluminum. Reflectivity tells me not to. What do you think?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: duckworth interior |
--- Mark Phillips wrote:
>
> Should the inside of the duckworths light installation be painted or
> left
> bare aluminum. Reflectivity tells me not to. What do you think?
If you're talking about the inside of the wing bay - I painted mine
white over the Variprime, skin and ribs.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin G. Santic" <martinsan(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Deft Primer Experience |
I don't want to start a primer thread (based on what I have read in the
archives) but need some information. Please reply to me "off-list" if
you have used or are using Deft primer. A "good friend", but a Glastar
builder, has suggested its use. Have a few questions for all of you.
Thanks.
Marty Santic RV-9A Empennage
Davenport, IA
email: martinsan(at)home.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Metal Knobs for Throttle & Mixture controls |
> Hi,
> Before I do some custom machining to make some metal knobs for my
> throttle & mixture controls for my RV-6, can someone tell me if they are
> available somewhere as an off the shelf product? I spoke with the
> manufacturer(ACS products) regarding these controls, and don't make
> metal knobs for these controls.
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
Not really an answer to your question, but I wanted to share a very
favorable experience with ACS. I needed special length engine controls not
stocked by Van's, so I called them. Gave them what I needed, and they said
they would ship them the next day. Sure enough, the controls showed up in a
couple days. Some key things to specify are: plastic jacketed, length of
travel and length from the threaded bulkhead (like Van's type) to the end of
the 10-32 threaded part.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A O360, Airflow, CS
may fly in '01
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Vibration Mounts |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
From: "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Engine Vibration Mounts
FYI. I have had Engine Vibration Mounts, part # EA DYNA VI-AEROBATIC on
order from Vans for 8 weeks and counting. Vans still claims that they
are
due in on 25 Aug 00.
To be fair, I have checked with Aircraft Spruce and they do not have them
either.
For those of you who plan to mount your engine soon, be warned, order
these
parts early.
If anyone has some they will not need in the near future, If you are
willing
to sell, I would be interested in buying.
Bob Busick
Been Ready to Mount the Engine
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- -
Bob,
Unless you are planning to do hard core aerobatics in your RV I suggest
you reconsider just using the regular mounts.
The major majority of RV's that are flying have the regular mounts which
have no effect on the capabilities for doing aerobatics.
The aerobatic mounts may be on back order because not many get sold.
It may be the case with the standard ones also but more than likely they
are in stock and could be shipped right away.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Reece" <ReeceRV3(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: re:trim control |
Bruce-
On the newer plans (1984+) the placement of the elevator trim lever is
difficult to see (going by the preview plans). It is on drawing 25 left
side view, section D-D. Drawing 27 gives the attachment details.
On the older plans (pre-1984) the elevator trim lever placement is easier to
see (full size plans anyway?) on drawing 16 left side view and the section
J-J detail shows the actual lever and not just the cutout per the newer
plans. Drawing 20 gives the attachment details (differ from the newer
plans).
Hope that helps?
RV-3's forever!
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN45 "total rebuild" project
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Stewart" <bruces(at)shoalhaven.net.au>
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2000 5:19 PM
Subject: RV3-List: re:trim control
> --> RV3-List message posted by: Bruce Stewart
>
> Hi All,
>
> I've been pouring over the pre view set and I can't see where exactly
> the trim control (lever) is installed? (not on the drawings I got anyway).
>
> ???
>
> Thanks
> Bruce
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Stewart <bruces(at)shoalhaven.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: re:trim control |
OK got it thanks to all.
Whats next? do I get divorsed now
or do I add ammenities to the shed
for the day I chucked out =:o) !!!!
It seems that the average build time here
in OZ is any thing between 1 year and 10+!
how much time did you guys take to build?
Bruce
>Bruce-
>
>On the newer plans (1984+) the placement of the elevator trim lever is
>difficult to see (going by the preview plans). It is on drawing 25 left
>side view, section D-D. Drawing 27 gives the attachment details.
>
>On the older plans (pre-1984) the elevator trim lever placement is easier to
>see (full size plans anyway?) on drawing 16 left side view and the section
>J-J detail shows the actual lever and not just the cutout per the newer
>plans. Drawing 20 gives the attachment details (differ from the newer
>plans).
>
>Hope that helps?
>
>RV-3's forever!
>
>Rob Reece
>RV-3 SN45 "total rebuild" project
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Bruce Stewart" <bruces(at)shoalhaven.net.au>
>To:
>Sent: Friday, September 22, 2000 5:19 PM
>Subject: RV3-List: re:trim control
>
>
>> --> RV3-List message posted by: Bruce Stewart
>>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I've been pouring over the pre view set and I can't see where exactly
>> the trim control (lever) is installed? (not on the drawings I got anyway).
>>
>> ???
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bruce
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Metal Knobs for Throttle & Mixture controls |
I too am trying to find knobs for Van's throttle quadrant. Please post
results.
James
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2000 5:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: Metal Knobs for Throttle & Mixture controls
>
> Hi,
> Before I do some custom machining to make some metal knobs for my
> throttle & mixture controls for my RV-6, can someone tell me if they are
> available somewhere as an off the shelf product? I spoke with the
> manufacturer(ACS products) regarding these controls, and don't make
> metal knobs for these controls.
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Metal Knobs for Throttle & Mixture controls |
I did check with them. Even purchased a quadrant. Asked about the knobs and
they are over $100!
James
----- Original Message -----
From: "George True" <true(at)uswest.net>
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2000 6:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Metal Knobs for Throttle & Mixture controls
>
> Glenn,
>
> Check out Beechhurst Industries, www.beechhurst.com.
>
> George True
>
> Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
> >
> > Hi,
> > Before I do some custom machining to make some metal knobs for my
> > throttle & mixture controls for my RV-6, can someone tell me if they are
> > available somewhere as an off the shelf product? I spoke with the
> > manufacturer(ACS products) regarding these controls, and don't make
> > metal knobs for these controls.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Glenn Gordon
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Repairman's Certificate |
The DAR should (have) handle(d) it for you.
Time limit is before first condition inspection, I think.
Finn
"Owens, Laird" wrote:
>
> Ok, dumb question time.
>
> When I had my RV inspected (in late May) for it's air worthiness certificate,
the inspector looked at my construction logs and photos. During the confusion
of the day, I forgot to ask how to go about getting my repairmans cert. I
see that he gave me a rating application form (FAA Form 8610-2) but it's just
a blank application.
>
> I want to get this taken care of before the first condition inspection. I sure
hope there's no time window that I've blown thru.
>
> I assume I have to turn this form into the local FSDO but I'm a little confused
about the form. Do I need the DAR to sign it?
>
> I think I can fill everything out in section I, but it's section II and III thats
got me.
>
> Can anyone help me thru this.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Laird
Why pay for something you could get for free?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Metal Knobs for Throttle & Mixture controls |
In a message dated 9/22/2000 11:15:23 PM Central Daylight Time,
jclark(at)conterra.com writes:
<< I did check with them. Even purchased a quadrant. Asked about the knobs and
they are over $100!
James
>>
Call Mark at team rocket. I know Mark gets his controlls made for him so I
am sure that he can get just parts for them
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Metal Knobs for Throttle & Mixture controls |
Glenn:
I replaced Van's wooden knobs with (plastic) Piper parts for a late model
single with a similar quadrant. More professional looking I think. You can
get them from a dealer.
Phil, 80691
----- Original Message -----
From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2000 2:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: Metal Knobs for Throttle & Mixture controls
>
> Hi,
> Before I do some custom machining to make some metal knobs for my
> throttle & mixture controls for my RV-6, can someone tell me if they are
> available somewhere as an off the shelf product? I spoke with the
> manufacturer(ACS products) regarding these controls, and don't make
> metal knobs for these controls.
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | noeldrew <noeldrew(at)iafrica.com> |
For those of you interested in Jon's progress, he left Durban South Africa
this morning at 04:51 UT. Weather is fair on this leg to Reunion Island in
the Indian Ocean with all winds favourable. His next leg has encountered
bureaucracy in the form of a ban on single engined aircraft departing
Rodrigues Island for Cocos Island. His only alternative is a longer route
through two inter-tropical convergence zones via Male with the threat of
storms. Such is the wisdom of flight safety that perhaps single engined
aircraft were not intended to go wandering.
It was a pleasure and a privilege to host him.
Noel Drew
RV6 ZU-APF
Durban, South Africa.
noeldrew(at)iafrica.com
________________________________________________________________________________
rv-list
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Middlesboro fly-in |
Gangsters and RV-listers
There is to be a EAA fly-in at Middlesboro,KY (1A6) on Sept. 30 -
October 1. Rob Herklotz, our AYA Southern Region coordinator, has
confirmed these dates for us. I understand it's usually a pretty good
event and centers around the P-38 restoration project that came from
the Greenland ice cap. I've heard they've had some pretty nice
warbirds at the event, in the past. I've never been to the event due
to conflicts or weather; but, I'm planning on being there this time.
Gangsters, I know this is the "New Orleans" weekend for you
southern region AYA members; but, perhaps some the our more local
Grumman drivers will find this event easier to get to. I think Rob is
going to be there because he doesn't live far from Middlesboro and
couldn't make it to New Orleans.
BTW, the nice thing about the P-38 project is that you can get close
and personal with it. The restorers encougage people like us to
enjoy our visits to the project and do allow some touchy-feely of the
aircraft. That's a bit unusual, to me. What's even more unusual is
the fact that the restorers stop their work to talk with us. They want
us to know all about the project and are very proud of what they're
doing. I must admit it's quite a project and was an inspiration to me
as I was building my RV-6A. Oh, yeah. One of the guys is a RV nut,
too.
I hope you guys show up in your Grummans, Yankees, and RV's. I'm
sure planning to be there on Saturday, weather permitting.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Metal Knobs for Throttle & Mixture controls |
Sorry if I wasn't clear on the post, but I am looking to replace the knobs on
the push-pull type throttle and mixture controls. This is the panel mount
type and not the throttle quadrant type.
-Glenn
> > Hi,
> > Before I do some custom machining to make some metal knobs for my
> > throttle & mixture controls for my RV-6, can someone tell me if they are
> > available somewhere as an off the shelf product? I spoke with the
> > manufacturer(ACS products) regarding these controls, and don't make
> > metal knobs for these controls.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Glenn Gordon
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Meacham" <bruceme3(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Checklist |
A POH for a homebuilt is subjective(or not required). If the aircraft is
"properly placarded" a POH is not required (see the regs). Exactly what
that means, I can't recall off the top of my head. Ir-regardless of
regulations, what you really want to know is W&B, V speeds and systems.
W&B: I ran a full matrix of schenarios (There aren't many on a -3) and
checked them against Van's recomended Weight and CG range. I can basically
do anything (except overload the rear storage) and still be inside CG range.
V Speeds. Van's publishes expected V speeds. I can't say either way to
expect those numbers, but for first flight, you _must_ do at least one stall
to accurately determine stall speed. The bottom of my arc's (both white and
green) aren't exactly where stall happens.
As for checklists: My non-gyro day VFR -3 is pretty simple, so I just
placarded a small pre-takeoff check list onto my panel.
see: http://www.seanet.com/~bruceme/rv3new/rv3new.htm
I laser printed the list onto a clear Avery mailing label. The top part is
the basics; fligth controls, altimeter accellarometer, voltage check.
The middle is a standard flow check (also pre-landing); mixture, carb heat,
mags on both, primer in and locked, fuel lever down. The bottom is engine
run-up then a reminder to set transponder to alt and set the radio.
I hope this was what you were looking for.
Bruce Meacham
----- Original Message -----
From: <RotorMac(at)aol.com>
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2000 5:22 PM
Subject: RV3-List: Checklist
> --> RV3-List message posted by: RotorMac(at)aol.com
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> Does anyone know where I can acquire a checklist and POH for a RV-3A?
>
> Thanks,
> Mac
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Metal Knobs for Throttle & Mixture controls |
Hi Glenn,
Check out the REID Tool Supply Company. www.reidtool.com I don't know
whether they have exactly what you want but they sure do carry a bunch of
different types of knobs in a variety of materials. Prices are very
reasonable with quick delivery. The company has been around for a long time.
Tom Brown RV4 flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Antenna Suggestions for IFR |
Listers:
I'm about to finish all the fairings on the empennage and like to do extra
work whle I wait for the wings (another 2 weeks).
I will definately make my RV-8 IFR and need to come up with the most
practiable solution that creates the least amount of drag.
I will use:
1 GNS-450 (or similar) (NAV(LOC & GS), COM, GPS)
1 NAV/COM
1 Transponder
1 ELT
I know there is a combined VOR/GS/LOC antenna (cat whisker style for the
vertical stabilizer) and splitters available so I can use two NAV's on one
antenna etc. I'm not sure if this is legal for IFR requirements though.
Any suggetions for best location and combination of antennas?
Best regards,
Are Barstad
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Burlington Bummer |
SO: this year I am geared up to go to Burlington. Previous years: unable
due to lots of other stuff. Look outside. Yes, I can see the house across
the street. But it is a lot greyer than usual.
Those of you close enough can still DRIVE over.
GrrrrrrrrRRRRrrrrrr...............
Clearing by Monday....
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
In the hanger.......................
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin G. Santic" <martinsan(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | RV-9A HS Main Ribs |
I am in the process of fluting the main ribs for the horizontal
stabilizer and have noticed that the upper surface of the flange, on the
tab, at the forward end of the rib is a bit lower than the upper surface
of the main flange of the rib. This small height sifference is most
noticable at the 90 degree bend line of the rib's flange (tab and main
flange). Worried that the skin will buldge up a bit at this location.
Is there something I should be doing to alleviate??
Marty Santic RV-9A Empennage
Davenport, IA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Chicago Area RV-Ator picnic 9/24 |
This is a reminder to some, and an announcement to others. The Fall picnic
is tomorrow, Sunday 9/24 at Casa de Aero in Hampshire, IL. Plan to arrive
around 11 - 12:00, and eat around 12:15. If weather is bad in the morning,
the time may slide a couple hours, but please come. There is no rain date
scheduled.
Tom Barnes
Fly-in and Departure Procedures
Casa de Aero (C38) 860ft ASL
N42 09.0 W088 34.0
326/18.3nm fr DPA
122.9 CTAF
09 Right turn traffic
27 Left turn traffic (this keeps you to the south of the runway)
Don't fly over homes; fly over ends of runway.
No intersection departures
Normally, run-ups are done in front of the residents home. In this case,
unless you are informed otherwise, do it at the end of the runway being as
considerate as possible.
If landing in crosswind, consider using the grass on the North side of the
main runway.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Suggestions for IFR |
In a message dated 09/23/2000 7:21:40 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
abarstad(at)bconnex.net writes:
> Any suggetions for best location and combination of antennas?
>
> Best regards,
> Are Barstad
> RV-8
>
The best performing NAV antenna is still Bob Archer's Wingtip NAV antenna
(added bonus of zero drag)
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com |
| Subject: | RV8 Elevator HELP |
Hi Friends,
When attaching E-604 tip rib to E-602pp spar do I need to trim the E-604 rib flange
so not to
force it between the spar flanges? Rainy and cold here in Des Moines, a great
day to build an
airplane!
Thanks,
Jack Textor
RV8 Right Elevator
Des Moines, IA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | rv4 and landoll balancer |
Could not find anything in the archives, Has anyone installed a Landoll
balancer on an 0-320 rv-4 with the constant speed cowl? Looks like I will
need to trim off about 3/4 -1" off the inside of the front of the cowl.
Will this weaken the cowl too much ?
thanks,
Warren Moore
HB,Ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator trim cover plate |
Are the K1100-06 platenuts and AN507-6R6 screws not included in the emp kit
to attach the elevator trim cover plate?
If the plans call for them where are they? Van's supplied K1000-06 platenuts
and AN515-6R8 screws.
Tired of paying for shipping and duty on these little things.
Steve Hurlbut
shurlbut(at)island.net
RV-6 emp
Comox, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Elevator HELP |
Yes! Assuming it's the same as for a RV-6. It states it right in the
construction manual for the RV-6.
Steve Hurlbut
shurlbut(at)island.net
RV-6 emp
C-FSND
Comox, BC, Canada
----- Original Message -----
From: <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2000 10:12 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV8 Elevator HELP
>
> Hi Friends,
> When attaching E-604 tip rib to E-602pp spar do I need to trim the E-604
rib flange so not to
> force it between the spar flanges? Rainy and cold here in Des Moines, a
great day to build an
> airplane!
> Thanks,
> Jack Textor
> RV8 Right Elevator
> Des Moines, IA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sue gregor" <hailey67(at)hotmail.com> |
RV8 QUICK BUILD KIT FOR SALE WITH OR WITHOUT ENGINE AND ENGINE ACCESSORIES.
INTERESTED PARTIES PLEASE REPLY OFF RV LIST. THANK YOU.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing-tip landing lights & wig-wag flasher |
At 07:24 AM 9/22/00 , you wrote:
>
>Hi All...
>Bill,
Bill,
All the current, about 8 amps for two 55 watt bulbs and 16 amps for two 100
watt bulbs goes through the switch. Although this works, it could be a
more reliable installation if the switches did not have to carry this high
current load.
Bill Benedict preached that it was a very good idea to have two fuses or
circuit breakers, one for each light. He felt that this redundancy
significantly reduced the possibility that you would land in the dark.
Depending on the speed to of the flasher, the bulbs may not come up to full
brightness. The WIgWag pattern will increase safety by making you more
noticeable and a full bright flash pattern will make you noticeable from a
greater distance.
The mechanical relays may generate some Radio Frequency noise as they open
and close.
Some other features that might be considered; bulb filament warming to
extend bulb life. In-rush current control for extended bulb life. The
mechanical relay, flasher, DPDT Switch that are rated for heavy currents,
and the longer runs of 14 gage wire that connects to the switches and then
out to the leading edge lights may weight more than a solid state timer and
a MOSFET switching circuit design.
We have been developing a WigWag solid state leading edge lights controller
that has these features plus many more. Yesterday we wrapped up the last
engineering issue which, would you believe, was finding a good light weight
material and technique to pot the circuit inside the case. As of today we
can now begin to build these units. By the way, the circuit has been
running a long durability test sense last spring with perfect results.
The WIgWag unit is controlled by 3 wires which command the unit when they
are switched to ground. The current draw when they are switched to ground
is extremely small. As a result, almost any switch can be used to do
control the lights. These 3 control wires provide the builder a choice of a
large number of different on off functions for the leading edge lights
using a large number of possible switch combinations and switch types. A
simple example would be SPDT center off switch that would command the
leading edge lights to be off, both on or WIgWaging. A more elaborate
installation could command five states by using a rotatory switch; All
Off, Taxi on, Landing on, Both on, and WigWag. The wiring of the three
control wires to do this is extremely easy to design and install.
We have designed this unit to make the installation and wiring very easy.
For an Acrobat or Microsoft Word file with the information you would need
to plan and design this into your panel, send me a request off line.
Bob
>I have the wig-wag flasher details posted that I was talking about the other
>day, along with the wing-tip landing light installation... Here a GOOD link
>this time :)
>
>http://vondane.com/rv8a/ideas/index.htm
>
>Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
>RV-8A, N8VD, Wings
Bob Haan
http://easystreet.com/~bhaan/
bhaan(at)easystreet.com
Portland, OR
RV6A 24461 Wiring the panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com |
| Subject: | RV-8 Elevator HELP |
Thanks Steve,
My manual and plans didn't specify.
Jack Textor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
Sue:
Would like to know at what point kit is finished. Also about engine.
where are you, how much, all the appropriate questions. Thanks
Dave Aronson
RV4 504RV
sue gregor wrote:
>
>
> RV8 QUICK BUILD KIT FOR SALE WITH OR WITHOUT ENGINE AND ENGINE ACCESSORIES.
> INTERESTED PARTIES PLEASE REPLY OFF RV LIST. THANK YOU.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
| Subject: | Re: Simple Green (wasRemove blue markings newer skins) |
The main problem discussed in the original Air Force paper was the
"sandwich effect"--Simple Green getting into seams, lapped joints and
under rivets/fasteners and not being thoroughly rinsed out and dried.
If any Simple Green remained in the enclosed areas, any further exposure
to moisture would cause a continuing corrosive condition. Thus, the Air
Force and Army placed an outright ban on the use of Simple Green on
aluminum aircraft skins. Simple Green does not appear to be as
corrosive as "Fantastic" or "409", but other products are available that
meet aircraft specs, such as "Super Blue" and "Big Orange Plus", in
concentrated solution, that work as cleaners and de-greasers, available
from Aircraft Spruce.
Boyd
>
>
> In a message dated 9/21/00 8:40:17 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com writes:
>
> << It is highly corrosive. I wouldn't use it. >>
>
> Hmmmm! I have lots of parts that have been in storage for over five years
> since they were cleaned with Simple Green, thoroughly flushed with water, and
> primed. Not a sign of corrosion anywhere. I have trouble understanding the
> difference between this and the etching acids (very highly corrosive) that
> many people use routinely? Can someone explain.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, working on canopy installation
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Anodizing Problem |
Hi,
I am experimenting with anodizing some aluminum parts (non structural,
knobs to be specific). The first step is going well. I have succeeded
in getting a non-conductive anodizing on the scrap aluminum I am
experimenting with. After this step, I am immersing the part in highly
concentrated rit dye solution (luke warm). The problem is that the dye
doesn't seem to be taking to the anodizing. Any suggestions?
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Sheehan <ctsheehan(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim cover plate |
My emp kit came with K1000's and 515's; but the electric elevator trim
hardware kit (ordered separately) came with 1100's and 507's. If I'm not
mistaken the plans call out K1000's, but I don't have the plans in front
of me right now.
Chris
Steve Hurlbut wrote:
>
>
> Are the K1100-06 platenuts and AN507-6R6 screws not included in the emp kit
> to attach the elevator trim cover plate?
> If the plans call for them where are they? Van's supplied K1000-06 platenuts
> and AN515-6R8 screws.
>
> Tired of paying for shipping and duty on these little things.
> Steve Hurlbut
> shurlbut(at)island.net
> RV-6 emp
> Comox, BC, Canada
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Burlington Bummer |
>
>
>SO: this year I am geared up to go to Burlington. Previous years: unable
>due to lots of other stuff. Look outside. Yes, I can see the house across
>the street. But it is a lot greyer than usual.
>
>Those of you close enough can still DRIVE over.
>
>GrrrrrrrrRRRRrrrrrr...............
>
>Clearing by Monday....
>
>Michael
>RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
>In the hanger.......................
Indeed a bummer. I, too was planning on flying up there early this
morning...until I saw the current conditions up there. Ick! So, plan
"B"...fly to Farmington, NM for a small fly-in. Had fun, plane was
surrounded with admirers (I'm still grinning and my head is horribly
swollen). Winds were HOWLING by the time I left and gusting to 34 KNOTS at
home base. Got beat up thoroughly by that nasty wx that hammered Colorado
and northern NM. Such is life in Mother Nature's element.
Better luck next year folks.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
132 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> |
I have an 0360A1D with hertzel cp and woodward Gov
(Prop and Gov from Vans)I've been pleased with the
acft performance. However I get 2500 rpm on take and
climb upon, lowering the nose the rpm runs up to 2700
rpm. I metioned this to an AE and he said as long as
im satisfied leave it alone because if the rpm gets to
2700 in climb it will exceed red line when leaveling
out. What say you engine prop guru's out there. Thanks
ahead for any info. do not archieve
RV6A 100 hrs and climbing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Burlington Bummer |
I too, was planning on making Burlington today.
I instead attended a EAA Dallas Chapter Poker Run & won 25 gal of 100ll, not
bad for 3 of a kind.
I hope for better weather next year.
See you in at Abilene in October
Mark Steffensen
8A Dallas, TX N783MS
45 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2000 5:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Burlington Bummer
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> >SO: this year I am geared up to go to Burlington. Previous years: unable
> >due to lots of other stuff. Look outside. Yes, I can see the house across
> >the street. But it is a lot greyer than usual.
> >
> >Those of you close enough can still DRIVE over.
> >
> >GrrrrrrrrRRRRrrrrrr...............
> >
> >Clearing by Monday....
> >
> >Michael
> >RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
> >In the hanger.......................
>
>
> Indeed a bummer. I, too was planning on flying up there early this
> morning...until I saw the current conditions up there. Ick! So, plan
> "B"...fly to Farmington, NM for a small fly-in. Had fun, plane was
> surrounded with admirers (I'm still grinning and my head is horribly
> swollen). Winds were HOWLING by the time I left and gusting to 34 KNOTS
at
> home base. Got beat up thoroughly by that nasty wx that hammered Colorado
> and northern NM. Such is life in Mother Nature's element.
>
> Better luck next year folks.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> 132 hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
Joe: I don't want to start a thread but I had a hartzell on my last RV. I
would suspect that the low pitch stop is not set correctly. In the Prop
instruction you probable need to set the static RPM to 2650 so the system
will work when the governor goes above 2700 RPM and that will cure the low
RPM on TO. The Low pitch stop is the nut and screw in the forward end of
the prop dome. Make small adjustment I think counterclockwise to increase,
but check you Hartzell manual that came with the prop to explain the
procedure. Hope this helps.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB Canopy stuff DNA
----- Original Message -----
From: "joe wiza" <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2000 7:11 PM
Subject: RV-List: CP RPM
>
> I have an 0360A1D with hertzel cp and woodward Gov
> (Prop and Gov from Vans)I've been pleased with the
> acft performance. However I get 2500 rpm on take and
> climb upon, lowering the nose the rpm runs up to 2700
> rpm. I metioned this to an AE and he said as long as
> im satisfied leave it alone because if the rpm gets to
> 2700 in climb it will exceed red line when leaveling
> out. What say you engine prop guru's out there. Thanks
> ahead for any info. do not archieve
>
> RV6A 100 hrs and climbing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM |
Hi Joe,
This doesn't sound right. One of the main reasons for having the
constant speed prop is to develop full horsepower on takeoff. With this
engine, unless you are turning 2700 rpm, that isn't happening. The fact that
the engine does run up to full speed in cruise suggests that the prop stops
are set too course in the flat pitch. There is a simple procedure in the
owners manual for changing the flat pitch stop. If the prop over revved in
cruise, I would suspect the governor. You state that the prop governor does
limit the rpm to 2700 in cruise. The governor would do the same on climb
provided the prop could pitch flat enough to turn up the rpms. Since you
don't complain about an anemic takeoff and climb, I am assuming that your
engine is performing to spec and operating normally. In any case, the prop
governor and prop should allow the engine to run up to 2700 unless the
horsepower has really dropped off. READ THE MANUAL CAREFULLY BEFORE YOU MAKE
ANY ADJUSTMENTS.
Tom Brown RV4 O-360 Hartzel CS Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Empannage fairings |
Does anyone know about any after-market empannage fairings? If so, which
ones need the least amount of rework, and how do they compare to Van's stock
fairing?
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Repairman's Certificate |
My DAR said that the feds had to handle it, that he couldn't.
Dave
Finn Lassen wrote:
>
> The DAR should (have) handle(d) it for you.
>
> Time limit is before first condition inspection, I think.
>
> Finn
>
> "Owens, Laird" wrote:
>
> >
> > Ok, dumb question time.
> >
> > When I had my RV inspected (in late May) for it's air worthiness certificate,
the inspector looked at my construction logs and photos. During the confusion
of the day, I forgot to ask how to go about getting my repairmans cert....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Empannage fairings |
>
>Does anyone know about any after-market empannage fairings? If so, which
>ones need the least amount of rework, and how do they compare to Van's stock
>fairing?
>Chuck
Chuck,
I just received an empennage fairing for my 6A from Bob at Fairings
Etc. Imfairings(at)aol.com
Even after heat gun treatment, my standard Van's fairing looked awful & was
going to require a lot of rework.
I have not finished fitting it yet, but it lies in place very smoothly, &
is a high quality molding. Check the RV-list archives for more comments
about this one.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Question for 6/6A QB/Slider Builders |
In a message dated 9/23/00 10:07:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM writes:
> Hello All...once again...
>
> Just need someone to un"confuse" me a bit. Im working on fitting the
> F-6106 Forward Top Skin. Ive drilled and dimpled all the appropriate
holes
> and trimmed the forward/bottom edges (leaving the rear edge for when I get
> the panel in). My question is this...the only holes left open by vans on
> the
> fuse where the ones forward of the F-6105 bulkhead (along the longeron)....
> do
> I need to drill out some of the rivits aft of the F-6105 that were
installed
>
> by Vans? Even after the trimming it seems to me you need to rivit the
> bottom edges along the main longeron aft of the F-6105. Additionally, Ive
> been burning my brain looking at the plans (SC-1 through 4) looking for
some
>
> type of measurements or something to describe the cutout (U-Shaped) where
> the
> F-6106 top skin is allowed to go over the canopy, and part is allowed to
go
> under the canopy. Do you just do this when fitting the canopy and make a
> cut
> just based on what you think you need? Thanks for the help........
>
> Regards,
>
> Kurt, OKC, OK
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Question for 6/6A QB/Slider Builders |
In a message dated 9/23/00 10:07:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM writes:
> Hello All...once again...
>
> Just need someone to un"confuse" me a bit. Im working on fitting the
> F-6106 Forward Top Skin. Ive drilled and dimpled all the appropriate
holes
> and trimmed the forward/bottom edges (leaving the rear edge for when I get
> the panel in). My question is this...the only holes left open by vans on
> the
> fuse where the ones forward of the F-6105 bulkhead (along the longeron)....
> do
> I need to drill out some of the rivits aft of the F-6105 that were
installed
>
> by Vans? Even after the trimming it seems to me you need to rivit the
> bottom edges along the main longeron aft of the F-6105. Additionally, Ive
> been burning my brain looking at the plans (SC-1 through 4) looking for
some
>
> type of measurements or something to describe the cutout (U-Shaped) where
> the
> F-6106 top skin is allowed to go over the canopy, and part is allowed to
go
> under the canopy. Do you just do this when fitting the canopy and make a
> cut
> just based on what you think you need? Thanks for the help........
>
> Regards,
>
> Kurt, OKC, OK
Kurt,
Drill new rivet holes along the longerons between the exisiting rivets.
As far as I remember, there are no dimensioned drawings of the cutouts you're
describing. Also, if I remember correctly, Scott McDaniels said he didn't
make the cutouts, and simply left the skin inside the canopy, with a
fiberglass fairing all the way around. If I had it to do over again, that's
the path I'd take.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin G. Santic" <martinsan(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A HS Main Ribs |
I'll answer my own question, "just for the record"! I should of kept
going. The forward tabs on the ribs are lower because they fit under
the uppper flange of the spar. After assembly of the HS components, it
became obvious. Sorry for the false alarm. The skin will not bulge up
in this location.
The first part finally looks like an airplane part!! There's a bit of
excitement here.
Marty Santic RV-9A Empennage
Davenport, IA
"Martin G. Santic" wrote:
>
>
> I am in the process of fluting the main ribs for the horizontal
> stabilizer and have noticed that the upper surface of the flange, on the
> tab, at the forward end of the rib is a bit lower than the upper surface
> of the main flange of the rib. This small height sifference is most
> noticable at the 90 degree bend line of the rib's flange (tab and main
> flange). Worried that the skin will buldge up a bit at this location.
> Is there something I should be doing to alleviate??
>
> Marty Santic RV-9A Empennage
> Davenport, IA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Burlington Bummer |
I was hoping to fly to Burlington also. From the Eastern edge of
Wisconsin, 670 nm would have been my longest trip, by far. Unfortunately,
thunderstorms sweeping across Iowa & Wisconsin prevented us from leaving on
Friday. Today, fog made an early start impossible. I'll put it in my
calendar for next year.
By midday today the fog was clearing & the ceilings were up to 800-1000 ft,
so I decided to do some solo IFR work. The flight went perfectly for about
45 seconds! The EIS-4000 Big Red Light started flashing at me just as I
entered the clouds. It was complaining about 12.1 volts, leading to my
first thought that I must have lost the alternator. I was just about to
hit the PTT to tell ATC & request vectors for an approach back in to West
Bend when I realized that maybe I had too much load on Van's 35 Amp
alternator. I had everything powered on! Landing & taxi lights, nav &
strobes, fuel boost pump & pitot heat. Too much! Landing & taxi lights
aren't much use in the clouds, so I switched them off & everything returned
to normal.
Maybe I need a bigger alternator, but here are the figures:
Normal load including strobes & nav lights: 20.1 amps
Fuel boost pump: 1.5 amps
Landing light & taxi light 8.0 amps
Pitot heat 8.0 amps
---------------
37.6 amps
For required IFR equipment, FAR 91.205 specifies"Generator or alternator of
adequate capacity". 35 amps is adequate if I switch off the landing & taxi
lights. Actually, 12.1 volts probably indicates that the alternator was
holding the load, just not putting much of a charge into the battery. I
normally indicate 11.7 volts before starting the engine.
BTW, the Navaid wing leveller moved the rest of the IFR practice from ugly
to OK. I still had to chase altitude a couple of times, & blew the first
approach into Waukesha, having to go missed soon after the FAF. The second
approach was better, but I still didn't see the ground before going
missed. My final localizer approach to West Bend ended up at MDA (600 ft
AGL) in broken clouds, & I was glad to see the runway & land. An hour in
the clouds without the wing leveller would have been more than
stressful! The ceiling had been forecast to rise, not lower :-(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brent Redding" <vredding(at)home.com> |
hi bart
could you send me a list of everything additional you have for sale with the
8 and also a price on the other engine that you mentioned in our ph.
conversation. willing to take it all if the price is right.
brent redding 860-2283
----- Original Message -----
From: sue gregor <hailey67(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: September 23, 2000 12:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV FOR SALE
>
> RV8 QUICK BUILD KIT FOR SALE WITH OR WITHOUT ENGINE AND ENGINE
ACCESSORIES.
> INTERESTED PARTIES PLEASE REPLY OFF RV LIST. THANK YOU.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Private airstrip deal |
>>Hi Bill: I've got a plan in the back of my mind to put in a strip on some
of my 20 acre farm. Sounds like you're advocating "just do it", which is
exactly what a neighbor of mine did with a strip for his Luscombe. If you
have any other words of wisdom, I'd be interested in hearing them also.
Thanks, Doug Seward<<
Doug:
I'd be careful. Just "doing it" might run you afoul of the law, and make it
hard to backtrack and get the official blessing you will probably need later
on. I don't agree with the erosion of reasonable private property rights
which has occurred in the last several decades, but it's the present reality.
Eco-terrorists and power-giddy local governments aren't going away any time
soon.
My stance is that the county could say nothing at all if I took the wings off
my airplane, made it into an air-car, and proceeded to do high-speed taxi all
over the farm. There's nothing they could say, any more than they could
object to my 14 year old driving an automobile on my private property; no
ordinance is being broken. And having put the wings back on, the moment I
leave the ground and take flight, I am subject only to federal law; the
county and state do not regulate aircraft in flight. Furthermore, the
minimum altitude flight restrictions do not apply to aircraft taking off or
landing. So I fail to see how this becomes any of the county's business, or
the state's, for that matter.
The curious thing is that the Feds, who could really have helped us here by
exerting their pre-emption authority, have opted to sit back and let the
state and local governments wield (unjust) authority over aircraft
operations. As any ham radio operator can attest, the Feds are quite able to
come to their aid in fighting restrictive antenna tower ordinances, by means
of the federal pre-emption doctrine. That they do so proves it does work.
But in the area of aviation, you get no such support from the FAA. On the
contrary, they will not approve a private airstrip at the federal level until
you submit proof that the blessing of the local, county, and state
governments has been obtained first. And in case the feds accidentally give
premature approval without the requisite permission from lower down, the
paperwork from OKC clearly indicates that federal approval does not supercede
approval at other levels of local government. In short, they leave you, the
landowner-pilot, at the mercy of every level of beaurocracy that exists where
you live in order to excercise the privilege of flight which is licensed at
the federal level. IMO, only a Democrat could admire anything about this
system in its present form; you have pitifully few property-owner rights
left. You still have the right to pay property taxes, of course. Might as
well give up private ownership of your land and let government make all your
decisions for you, cradle to grave.
On the bright side, it is still possible to submit to the process, abide the
long delays, grease the right palms (all levels of government have their
hands in your pocket wanting fees for this and that) and in the end come out
with a licensed and duly-authorized piece of hayfield where you can kiss the
tires of your RV back onto terra firma without worrying that the sheriff
might show up at your door asking questions. My airstrip straddles 2
counties, and the county which lays claim to the final 500 feet made it clear
I was going to have to play their game, too. County A, wherein I reside,
and which has about 1600 freet of my strip, was cooperative and cheap: 35
bucks in fees and one public hearing. Adjoining County B wanted $225 to
bless my "over-run" and held two public hearings, after sending certified
letters to all my neighbors, just as county A had done a few months before.
County A is rural, county B is a bedroom community for a large city and
fancies itself as something special; they have an attitude to go with it.
Point is, you have to do every last little thing "they" say you have to do;
but if you were a free man, you wouldn't have to do any of it. If I sound
like a militia member or conspiracy wacko, I'm not. But this airstrip
subject is close to my heart (and home).
I think this might be of general list interest, so will post there as well as
replying direct to you.
Regards,
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP
Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Luster" <rlluster(at)msn.com> |
"RV-List Digest Server"
HI all.
Very excited to start the inventory process on my just received wing boxes.
Vans has done excellent job on their delivering as promised.
I am just about done with the left elevator. One thing I did notice, the
manual does not reference attaching the hinge to the elevator. The plans do
show the proper assembly, but no directions in the manual.
I am still very happy with the quality of the kit and look forward to many
great hours of building.
Richard Luster
Marysville, WA
RV9A,HS/VS complete
# 90111
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: rv4 and landoll balancer |
I have the balancer installed on my 4 with
the constant speed cowl. Yes you have to
remove some of the lip but it remains strong
enough.
Stewart, RV4 Colo.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Repairman's Certificate |
Now that's odd. He's the one that would determine if you qualify, from inspecting
your logbook, pictures, etc. That's the understanding I was given by my FAA
inspector.
AC65-23A, 6. d. Demonstrate to the certificating FAA inspector his or her ability
to perform condition inspections ...
Maybe you can get a statement from the DAR to that effect and mail that in with
the application.
Anyway, browse the faa.gov website and see if you can find AC65-23A (and appendix
1). There's an example of what needs to be filled in on the 8610-2 form.
You're applying for REPAIRMAN (Experimental Aircraft Builder) cert.
Fill in section I.
In section III, under TYPE WORK PERFORMED (Example by me:)
Make - Finn Lassen Van's Aircraft
Model - RV-3
Serial - #488
Certification Date of Aircraft: August 10, 2000
Sign and date in section IV.
Send to "local FAA office".
Finn
Dave Bristol wrote:
> My DAR said that the feds had to handle it, that he couldn't.
>
> Dave
>
> Finn Lassen wrote:
>
> >
> > The DAR should (have) handle(d) it for you.
> >
> > Time limit is before first condition inspection, I think.
> >
> > Finn
> >
> > "Owens, Laird" wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Ok, dumb question time.
> > >
> > > When I had my RV inspected (in late May) for it's air worthiness certificate,
the inspector looked at my construction logs and photos. During the confusion
of the day, I forgot to ask how to go about getting my repairmans cert....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Osgood" <randbosgood(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | RV6A Project for sale |
Listers,
Health, money and other factors force me to part with my RV6A project.
The tail and wings are done, fuselage (sliding canopy version) is approx.
50% done and is still on the jig.
The wings are equipped with the Duckworth lights and are prewired for
antennas.
In addition I have a Valcom radio, some instruments and a completed RST
intercom to be included in the total package.
All parts are primed and built to plans. I would consider the quality of the
work to be good, no skimping.
I have invested over 14k to date but will take 10k for all (including
tools).
I would prefer to sell all to one party and not part the kit out.
Please contact me off list for more info.
I am located in Minneapolis, MN
(952) 448-1685 home phone #
Rick Osgood
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Repairman's Certificate |
I got my repairman certificate for my last experimental about 17 years ago. At
that time, you simply went to the FAA after your test period was flown off and
made out the application. Approval appeared to be just about automatic. It
is a
long time to remember, but I believe they gave me a temporary certificate (just
like a new pilot certificate) and the permanent one arrived by mail. The procedure
may have changed.
Finn Lassen wrote:
>
> Now that's odd. He's the one that would determine if you qualify, from inspecting
your logbook, pictures, etc. That's the understanding I was given by my FAA
inspector.
>
> AC65-23A, 6. d. Demonstrate to the certificating FAA inspector his or her ability
to perform condition inspections ...
>
> Maybe you can get a statement from the DAR to that effect and mail that in with
the application.
>
> Anyway, browse the faa.gov website and see if you can find AC65-23A (and appendix
1). There's an example of what needs to be filled in on the 8610-2 form.
>
> You're applying for REPAIRMAN (Experimental Aircraft Builder) cert.
>
> Fill in section I.
>
> In section III, under TYPE WORK PERFORMED (Example by me:)
> Make - Finn Lassen Van's Aircraft
> Model - RV-3
> Serial - #488
> Certification Date of Aircraft: August 10, 2000
>
> Sign and date in section IV.
>
> Send to "local FAA office".
>
> Finn
>
> Dave Bristol wrote:
>
> > My DAR said that the feds had to handle it, that he couldn't.
> >
> > Dave
> >
> > Finn Lassen wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > The DAR should (have) handle(d) it for you.
> > >
> > > Time limit is before first condition inspection, I think.
> > >
> > > Finn
> > >
> > > "Owens, Laird" wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Ok, dumb question time.
> > > >
> > > > When I had my RV inspected (in late May) for it's air worthiness certificate,
the inspector looked at my construction logs and photos. During the confusion
of the day, I forgot to ask how to go about getting my repairmans cert....
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | voltage reg/protector |
I need a part # for an auto voltage regulator and I understand Bob N. sells a
circuit protector. Not sure on all of this ele stuff and the names, so you
have to bare with me.
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Empannage fairings |
In a message dated 9/23/00 9:33:18 PM Central Daylight Time,
chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com writes:
<< I just received an empennage fairing for my 6A from Bob at Fairings
Etc. Imfairings(at)aol.com >>
I also purchased empennage fairing from Bob -- fits very well as received.
Have not worked on yet but very pleased with it as starting piece that needs
a little work to make it perfect.
Dale Ensing Cary Illinois
RV-6A O-360 (finishing details)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Repairman's Certificate |
In a message dated 9/24/00 10:32:40 AM Central Daylight Time,
airplane(at)megsinet.net writes:
<< I got my repairman certificate for my last experimental about 17 years
ago. At that time, you simply went to the FAA after your test period was
flown off and made out the application. Approval appeared to be just about
automatic. >>
Twelve years ago, on my first experimental airplane, I had to go to the FSDO
office to get the repairman's certificate. The FAA airframe inspector that
did the inspection on the airplane had nothing to do with it. The FSDO person
was much more through in the review of my proof of building the plane than
the inspector.
Dale Ensing Cary Illinois
RV-6A O-360 (finishing details)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | intersection FUBAR? |
Hi all:
Les Williams has purchased a set of these parts from us (you may have read
his earlier post about the poor fit). So, I have a question: How many of you
are actually flying with these parts, and how did they fit? Do you have any
input as to what might be the problem here?
I'm trying to understand what is happening on this one installation -- the
things simply don't seem to fit. About all I can think of is that the axle
camber is formed at the extreme end of the tolerance allowance in one
direction, but that seems remote to me...
Thanks in advance for your help! Please respond directly to me, or at least
along with the list response.
Check Six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: duckworth interior |
In a message dated 9/22/00 4:20:21 PM Pacific Daylight Time, mphill(at)fgi.net
writes:
<< Should the inside of the duckworths light installation be painted or left
bare aluminum. Reflectivity tells me not to. What do you think?
>>
Based on Duckworks suggestion to have a reflective surface inside the top of
the light housing to reflect light down for taxi I used aluminum foil tape.
I won't know how it will work for another year or so.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Repairman's Certificate |
DWENSING(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 9/24/00 10:32:40 AM Central Daylight Time,
> airplane(at)megsinet.net writes:
>
> << I got my repairman certificate for my last experimental about 17 years
> ago. At that time, you simply went to the FAA after your test period was
> flown off and made out the application. Approval appeared to be just about
> automatic. >>
>
> Twelve years ago, on my first experimental airplane, I had to go to the FSDO
> office to get the repairman's certificate. The FAA airframe inspector that
> did the inspection on the airplane had nothing to do with it. The FSDO person
> was much more through in the review of my proof of building the plane than
> the inspector.
>
> Dale Ensing Cary Illinois
> RV-6A O-360 (finishing details)
>
Since we are telling our experience at getting our repairman's
certificates I well tell mine. When the inspector inspected my
aircraft he gave me the papers to fill out for the repairman's
certificate and gave me the certificate at the same time as the
rest of the aircraft paperwork. I don't understand the logic
behind waiting tell the test period hours are flown off, what if
you need to do some repairs during that time. I really think that
you need to apply for it at the time of inspection. And I don't
understand why anyone would not do so. Also the inspector that did
my aircraft inspection is the same person that signed the repairman's
certificate.
JSpringer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Repairman's Certificate |
Jerry Springer wrote:
> -
Jerry,
This makes sense to me. Art Glaser
>
> Since we are telling our experience at getting our repairman's
> certificates I well tell mine. When the inspector inspected my
> aircraft he gave me the papers to fill out for the repairman's
> certificate and gave me the certificate at the same time as the
> rest of the aircraft paperwork. I don't understand the logic
> behind waiting tell the test period hours are flown off, what if
> you need to do some repairs during that time. I really think that
> you need to apply for it at the time of inspection. And I don't
> understand why anyone would not do so. Also the inspector that did
> my aircraft inspection is the same person that signed the repairman's
> certificate.
>
> JSpringer
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: voltage reg/protector |
>
>I need a part # for an auto voltage regulator and I understand Bob N. sells a
>circuit protector. Not sure on all of this ele stuff and the names, so you
>have to bare with me.
>Carey Mills
>
Bob recommends a Standard Autoparts p/n VR166 voltage regulator,
which apparently is a common part for Fords. You will also want over
voltage protection, if you value your avionics. He sells a crowbar
type overvoltage protection module. His catalog is at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/catalog.html
Info on the over voltage protection module is at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/alterntr/alterntr.html#ovm-14
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.nbci.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Repairman's Certificate |
The only thing you need the repairman's certificate is to sign off the
annual conditional inspection. The rest you can do anyway.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2000 12:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Repairman's Certificate
>
> DWENSING(at)AOL.COM wrote:
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 9/24/00 10:32:40 AM Central Daylight Time,
> > airplane(at)megsinet.net writes:
> >
> > << I got my repairman certificate for my last experimental about 17
years
> > ago. At that time, you simply went to the FAA after your test period
was
> > flown off and made out the application. Approval appeared to be just
about
> > automatic. >>
> >
> > Twelve years ago, on my first experimental airplane, I had to go to the
FSDO
> > office to get the repairman's certificate. The FAA airframe inspector
that
> > did the inspection on the airplane had nothing to do with it. The FSDO
person
> > was much more through in the review of my proof of building the plane
than
> > the inspector.
> >
> > Dale Ensing Cary Illinois
> > RV-6A O-360 (finishing details)
> >
> Since we are telling our experience at getting our repairman's
> certificates I well tell mine. When the inspector inspected my
> aircraft he gave me the papers to fill out for the repairman's
> certificate and gave me the certificate at the same time as the
> rest of the aircraft paperwork. I don't understand the logic
> behind waiting tell the test period hours are flown off, what if
> you need to do some repairs during that time. I really think that
> you need to apply for it at the time of inspection. And I don't
> understand why anyone would not do so. Also the inspector that did
> my aircraft inspection is the same person that signed the repairman's
> certificate.
>
> JSpringer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | control stick mounting |
Ok I've looked at the archives and got a couple of different answers. I
can't seem to get the bolt in through the bronze (brass?) bushing where the
control stick mounts to the control column. Also had to do a little grinding
to get the control sticks in the mounts. The bolt called out is a AN 4-27
with a castle nut. Does this mean the bolt rotates in the bushing or should
the bushing rotate? In either case I can't get the bolt in the bushing
anyway. What is wrong and how do I fix it? Thanks
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
Anyone have any experience using camlocks with the S-Cowl for RV6A instead of
hinges? If so please let me know how many were used, where used and whether
it worked out as alternative.
Thanks for the help.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Repairman's Certificate |
Cy is correct. The annual condition inspection requires a Repairman
Certificate or an A&P.
Cy Galley wrote:
>
> The only thing you need the repairman's certificate is to sign off the
> annual conditional inspection. The rest you can do anyway.
>
> Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
> (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
> To: ;
> Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2000 12:43 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Repairman's Certificate
>
> >
> > DWENSING(at)AOL.COM wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > In a message dated 9/24/00 10:32:40 AM Central Daylight Time,
> > > airplane(at)megsinet.net writes:
> > >
> > > << I got my repairman certificate for my last experimental about 17
> years
> > > ago. At that time, you simply went to the FAA after your test period
> was
> > > flown off and made out the application. Approval appeared to be just
> about
> > > automatic. >>
> > >
> > > Twelve years ago, on my first experimental airplane, I had to go to the
> FSDO
> > > office to get the repairman's certificate. The FAA airframe inspector
> that
> > > did the inspection on the airplane had nothing to do with it. The FSDO
> person
> > > was much more through in the review of my proof of building the plane
> than
> > > the inspector.
> > >
> > > Dale Ensing Cary Illinois
> > > RV-6A O-360 (finishing details)
> > >
> > Since we are telling our experience at getting our repairman's
> > certificates I well tell mine. When the inspector inspected my
> > aircraft he gave me the papers to fill out for the repairman's
> > certificate and gave me the certificate at the same time as the
> > rest of the aircraft paperwork. I don't understand the logic
> > behind waiting tell the test period hours are flown off, what if
> > you need to do some repairs during that time. I really think that
> > you need to apply for it at the time of inspection. And I don't
> > understand why anyone would not do so. Also the inspector that did
> > my aircraft inspection is the same person that signed the repairman's
> > certificate.
> >
> > JSpringer
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: control stick mounting |
>
>Ok I've looked at the archives and got a couple of different answers. I
>can't seem to get the bolt in through the bronze (brass?) bushing where the
>control stick mounts to the control column. Also had to do a little
>grinding
>to get the control sticks in the mounts. The bolt called out is a AN 4-27
>with a castle nut. Does this mean the bolt rotates in the bushing or
>should
>the bushing rotate? In either case I can't get the bolt in the bushing
>anyway. What is wrong and how do I fix it? Thanks
>
>Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
>RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage)
Eric,
I had to ream out the bushings with a 1/4" drill bit. I used cutting oil,
and clamped the rag protected bushings in a vice. Once the AN4 bolt will
slip through without force, the next task is to trim the bushings to length
so they are just slightly longer than the stick. The bushing is fixed in
place when the nut is tightened down in the final assembly. So, the stick
rotates about the bushing/bolt assembly which does not rotate. Polish the
outer surface of the bushing to get a nice, smooth, non-binding fit in the
stick weldment. You want free motion here, but no excess slop either.
This is how it's done in my RV8, but I reckon the -6 follows the same
concept.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: control stick mounting |
Vans calls for reaming the bushing with a 1/4 inch reamer to insure that the
bolt fits with little or no play. The reamer worked for us.
Rollie & Rod
RV6A Finish kit
N799RQ (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: control stick mounting |
-----Original Message-----
From: ENewton57(at)AOL.COM <ENewton57(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Sunday, September 24, 2000 4:34 PM
Subject: RV-List: control stick mounting
>
>Ok I've looked at the archives and got a couple of different answers. I
>can't seem to get the bolt in through the bronze (brass?) bushing where the
>control stick mounts to the control column. Also had to do a little
grinding
>to get the control sticks in the mounts. The bolt called out is a AN 4-27
>with a castle nut. Does this mean the bolt rotates in the bushing or
should
>the bushing rotate? In either case I can't get the bolt in the bushing
>anyway. What is wrong and how do I fix it? Thanks
>
>Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
>RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage)
> Eric's RV-6A
>Construction Page
It seems as though things have changed considerably from drawing 41R6, to
which I built my control assembly. The nut callout and depiction is an
AN960-416-416 elastic stop nut; the bolt is an AN4-30A. Perhaps too many
builders have misinterpreted the plans in this critical area and a castle
nut is now required. I did find that this area required some careful hand
work to obtain the desired fits.
The idea is: The longest dimension is the gap in the Wd-610A yoke. The
brass bushing is filed to be a tight fit into the yoke, thereby precluding
rotation when the yoke is compressed by the bolt; and finally the tube on
the Wd-612 control stick is the shortest member, and it must be shorter than
the bushing.
The bushing may require reaming to get the bolt in with the desired fit.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 0.0 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lothar klingmuller" <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Burlington Bummer: for some |
"lothar klingmuller"
Just returned from there and was surprised that 15 RV made it!! The flyers
came essentially from the south (Texas and Arizona).. The last one to arrive
was Jim Baker in his award-winning 6 slider. He come over this morning all
the way from Goodland :-) (~ 30 road miles). Hopefully all the southern
flyers got away this Sunday afternoon. Yes, there was ~ 2" snow on the
ground this Sunday mooring all the way from Burlington to the Denver area
though the sun was just coming out when we arrived via I70 with the earth
bound transportation mode. My wife kind of likes the drive (2 1/2 hrs),
though I am determined to get my bird flying by the 6th meeting next year.
I am just getting tired driving!!!
Having been at all of the 5 Burlington fly-ins, I am amazed how this event
has blossemed! I would not be surprized to see 100 (make this 101 with
mine?!?!!) RV's there next year. It is just a wonderful relaxing
atmosphere for RVators, builders, and wannab be's.
Mark your calender: next year's Burlington fly-in will be again
Lothar, Denver CO|| 6A tip-up|| wiring instrument panel
>SO: this year I am geared up to go to Burlington. Previous years: unable
>due to lots of other stuff. Look outside. Yes, I can see the house across
>the street. But it is a lot greyer than usual.
>
>Those of you close enough can still DRIVE over.
>
>GrrrrrrrrRRRRrrrrrr...............
>
>Clearing by Monday....
>
>Michael
>RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
>In the hanger.......................
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: control stick mounting |
In a message dated 9/24/00 2:17:09 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
ENewton57(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< I
can't seem to get the bolt in through the bronze (brass?) bushing where the
control stick mounts to the control column. Also had to do a little
grinding
to get the control sticks in the mounts. The bolt called out is an AN 4-27
with a castle nut. Does this mean the bolt rotates in the bushing or should
the bushing rotate? In either case I can't get the bolt in the bushing
anyway. What is wrong and how do I fix it? >>
Any of these close tolerance cases requires reaming by the builder to fit the
bolt.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Question for 6/6A QB/Slider Builders |
Kurt,
I asked the same question last month. No responses so I resorted to some
long (real long) distance phone calls. I assume you have the quick build. I
elected to NOT drill between the existing rivets as I thought the area was
getting a little "crowded". Instead, I carefully drilled out all offending
rivets (12 on each side I recall). No problem and all should go well when the
final riveting takes place with the exception of (possibly) having to
substitute 1 blind rivet on each side due to lack of bucking bar access.
I plan on not making the cut-out for the windscreen, we'll see how it
goes.
Hope this helps!
Rick Gray 6QB (Ohio) drizzle at the Buffalo Farm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary & Tena Strong" <gstrong(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | control stick mounting |
I just mounted mine a couple of weeks ago. According to the Orndorf video,
you have to ream out the bushing. He suggests an actual reamer, but since I
didn't have one I used a drill bit.
Gary S. RV6AQB - working on the rudder pedals
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
ENewton57(at)AOL.COM
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2000 4:14 PM
Subject: RV-List: control stick mounting
Ok I've looked at the archives and got a couple of different answers. I
can't seem to get the bolt in through the bronze (brass?) bushing where the
control stick mounts to the control column. Also had to do a little
grinding
to get the control sticks in the mounts. The bolt called out is a AN 4-27
with a castle nut. Does this mean the bolt rotates in the bushing or should
the bushing rotate? In either case I can't get the bolt in the bushing
anyway. What is wrong and how do I fix it? Thanks
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | electric flap covers |
| From: | "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com> |
I spent most of the day installing the electric flaps on my Rv-6A QB and am
down to fitting the side covers, EF-607 L&R. I'm trimming cardboard to get
the basic fit, but I can't figure out what to do about the change in the
seat bottom angle. Several comments in the archives indicate to trim the
flange off forward of the seat bottom bend and make the shape work. Is this
what everyone is doing?The covers, of course, already have a flange bent at
the bottom, but it's straight and the edge it's supposed to fit isn't. I'd
appreciate any comments y'all would pass my way.
Robert Dickson
Fayetteville NC
RV-6A flap actuator (seeing it move under power is cool!)
Bob Barrows 0-360 (ordered), Hartzell CS (ordered)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | " theslumlord" <theslumlord(at)mediaone.net> |
as much as I enjoy aviation humour, It has no place on the list. The last
items from ATC conversations was funny, it was even funny when I heard it 2
years ago! There are many aviation humour sites on the net where you can
go. Let's keep this list pure to the intended purpose. By all means use DO
NOT ARCHIVE in your text if you don't want what you submit to wind up
forever in the archives.
Now here is something you can use: Good building tip #5: before securing a
shaft or wire with a set screw, drop a piece of lead shot in the hole and
you get a custom fit shoe that will assume the contour of the shaft and lock
it in place without scoring or marking it!
Ralph Bookout, Certified Slumlord
6 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Holder <holder(at)multipro.com> |
| Subject: | private grass strips |
My first posting - I'm interested in setting up a private grass strip at
home in Tennessee. What are the proper procedures one has to go through
to get things going?
name="holder.vcf"
filename="holder.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Holder;Danny
url:www.homestead.com/wittlewattles/index.html
adr:;;;;;;
version:2.1
email;internet:www.homestead.com/wittlewattles/index.html
note:Check this site out for hand-crafted baby rattles
fn:Danny Holder
end:vcard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Re-locating Electric Flap Actuation |
--- Emrath wrote:
>
> I'm trying to contact Charlie Oglesby who posted this to the list. I
> would
> like to see the pictures of this but the site must have been moved.
> Will
> Charlie contract me off list if you're reading this, please. Does
> anyone
> else know of where there is a picture of this and further
> explanation?
The modified electric flap mounting is available from the RV-links page
off of Mr. Horton's web site. Here is the URL:
http://www.mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/flap_mod.htm
Hope this was what you were looking for...
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Burlington Bummer; Still a great time. |
14 planes managed to make it to Burlington this year. The weather lifted
for about two hours on friday and allowed the 14 in. By Sunday morning
we still had 14 planes on the field covered with snow and ice. A great
time was had by all 56 of us on Saturday. Dana Boucher gave a great
forum on the ins and outs of aircraft insurance and also being an air
traffic controller Dana answered many questions about how the ATC system
works. Later in the day we hauled John Stewart's Award winning RV-6A
into the main hangar and decowled it for a question and answer session.
Despite the weather we had a great time.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "edperry64" <edperry64(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Manual aileron trim |
Anybody have any comments on the manual aileron trim for the RV-8? I just
installed mine(not flying yet). It seems to drag on the smoothness of the
controls. Not binding just not smooth.
Is this noticeable in flight?
Just curious,
Ed Perry
RV-8QB 180/CS
edperry64(at)netzero.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wayne and Cindy <rwayne(at)gamewood.net> |
| Subject: | Sequence of building |
Dear RV8ers:
I'm trying to determine the order of events as I progress. As I finish
cabin details many things start to hide or block others. I don't want to
repeat any steps where possible (assemble/disassemble). It looks like I
will need to go to the airport to do my first wing fitting since both wings
need to go on at the same time. I want to do this towards the end, if
possible. (My shop is not big enough for both wings.)
What do you think of the following order?
Get on gear
Hang engine
Determine location of all firewall components
Remove engine, begin firewall
Paint interior
Reinstall cabin components and controls/ pushrods
Permanently install rudder pedals/cables and brakes (already built)
Run all cabin aluminum lines
Complete buses and electrical wiring
Install instruments
Run all vacuum components
Rivet top skin
Install canopy (frame already on), then skirt
To airport to fit wings to fuselage and cut fairings
(Return to shop)
Reinstall engine
Complete engine systems installation
Install cowling
Install gear leg fairings
Reinstall empennage
Paint exterior
Return to airport for wing and control surface installation
Complete wiring related to wing systems
Rivet in floor
Thanks for your input.
Wayne Williams
Danville, VA
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | rv4 and Landoll balancer |
Thanks for info, I'll start trimming away -- after the canopy, how hard could
it be!!
Warren Moore.
Huntington Beach, ca.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rvpilot" <rvpilot(at)coollink.net> |
Hi Joe,
The procedure is to back out the high RPM stop on the gov. so that it is not
controlling or limiting the RPM. Then back out the mechanical low pitch stop
screw on the prop hub so that you get about 2650 to 2700 static or during
the initial take off roll. In this condition, the RPM will definitely over
speed if you let it (once your airspeed builds up) so be ready to pull back
the prop control to 2700 as required. Once you level out, set the RPM for
2700 and leave it there. After you land, pull off the cowling and with the
Gov. still where you set it, turn in the high RPM stop screw until it just
touches the arm on the Gov. Re-safety it.You're done!
Missed you at the Crystal River get -together on Saturday.
Best Regards, Bill N48WD
----- Original Message -----
From: "joe wiza" <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2000 7:11 PM
Subject: RV-List: CP RPM
>
> I have an 0360A1D with hertzel cp and woodward Gov
> (Prop and Gov from Vans)I've been pleased with the
> acft performance. However I get 2500 rpm on take and
> climb upon, lowering the nose the rpm runs up to 2700
> rpm. I metioned this to an AE and he said as long as
> im satisfied leave it alone because if the rpm gets to
> 2700 in climb it will exceed red line when leaveling
> out. What say you engine prop guru's out there. Thanks
> ahead for any info. do not archieve
>
> RV6A 100 hrs and climbing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: private grass strips |
Danny Holder wrote:
>
>
> My first posting - I'm interested in setting up a private grass strip at
> home in Tennessee. What are the proper procedures one has to go through
> to get things going?
>
>
Danny I grew up with an airstrip on my dads property so I know how
neat and convenient it can be.
I think that the only way to really find out how to do it is to
either just go ahead and do it and see what happens. Most likely
you well have to go to the county that you live in and jump
through all the hoops they want you to. It would be pretty hard
to find a correct answer here because each state and county well be
different. The FAA well most likely leave it up to the locals
to give their approval first before they do.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AV8TURDON(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: aviation humour |
The way I see it is we don't need another damn List monitor. We've had a lot
of fun building and laughing. Beat it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Tach Drive Cover |
Hi Guys,
Seems to me I remember a thread a while back on tach drive covers.
I need one for my Lycoming 0320.
If there are still some out there please contact me off list.
Thanks...
Larry Olson
Cave Creek, AZ
RV6 - Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: control stick mounting |
> Brian,
> If the bushing does not rotate about the bolt, then there is no reason to ream
> the bushing to .0005 tollerance as called for in the plans (RV6). I think that
> you'll find that the bushing should be tight in the stick assembly and rotate
> around the bolt. Also if the bushing were supposed to rotate in the stick,
> then the stick assembly would have to be reamed to fit the bushing.
Dave
Brian Denk wrote:
>
> I had to ream out the bushings with a 1/4" drill bit. I used cutting oil,
> and clamped the rag protected bushings in a vice. Once the AN4 bolt will
> slip through without force, the next task is to trim the bushings to length
> so they are just slightly longer than the stick. The bushing is fixed in
> place when the nut is tightened down in the final assembly. So, the stick
> rotates about the bushing/bolt assembly which does not rotate. Polish the
> outer surface of the bushing to get a nice, smooth, non-binding fit in the
> stick weldment. You want free motion here, but no excess slop either.
>
> This is how it's done in my RV8, but I reckon the -6 follows the same
> concept.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles L. Cotton" <charles(at)cottonfamily.com> |
| Subject: | RV Building Pert Chart |
"Charles L. Cotton"
RV'ers:
I'm in the process of setting up to build an RV-9A (purchase tools, prepare
shop, etc.) and am trying to plan ahead as much as possible. Many
decisions, preliminary at least, have been made concerning the panel,
engine, prop, even the paint type and color. The project will go much
smoother if the "I should have done it differently," or "I never thought of
that" moments are kept to a minimum.
I decided to start a pert chart to remove as many surprises from the
building process as possible. With pen and paper, I started listing the
things I thought were the various decisions/acquisitions that should be
made at certain times to avoid delays. Then I realized this was truly like
the blind leading the blind. I haven't built an RV before, so I'm hardly
qualified to create this list, at least not beyond the fairly obvious items
none of us needed to reduce to writing.
This is where the experienced builders can help us all, not just those of
us who are working on the empennage. You don't have to be flying your RV to
contribute. Your experiences will benefit anyone who is not quite as far
along in their project. (Remember the old joke, you don't have to be able
to out run the bear, just your buddy?) There are other sources for
construction tips such as the Frank Justice's Supplemental Instructions and
Bunny's Guide to RV Building, so I'm thinking more along the lines of
decisions that should be made by a certain point in construction. As an
example, I don't know what I want to do about wing tips and I thought I
didn't have to worry about it, until well into the wing kit. However, I've
seen the threads on the wing tips with the landing lights and like that
better than cutting the leading edge of the wing. However, the wing tips
I've seen appear to require that I have the tail light in the rudder,
because the wing tip strobe does not appear like it will be visible from
the rear. Thus, I need to make a decision about the wing tips even before I
buy the first kit! This is the type of delay/problem we all would like to
avoid.
If there is any interest, I would be happy to collect all
responses/suggestions and post them on my web page under the title "RV
Builders Pert Chart." A proposed organizational format tracking the order
in which kits are purchased would be:
General - For pre-construction matters/suggestions, or those not directly
related to any particular stage of construction;
Empennage Kit - (May be further subdivided into H. Stab., elevator; S.
Stab., rudder
Wing Kit - (May be further subdivided into fuel tanks, lights, ailerons,
wing tips, etc.)
Fuselage Kit - (Further subdivision is virtually limitless)
Finishing Kit - (I don't know enough about finishing kits to say any more!)
What do you think folks?
Regards,
Chas.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electric flap covers |
Robert,
Trim the flange off where the change in angle starts. In fact, you will
have to do some more trimming of the cover where the trimmed off flange was
to make it fit the change in angle. Another tip for the side cover....use
your edge tool to put a little bend on the front and rear edge of the
covers. Makes them lay down very nicely and also gives them flimsy things a
little more rigidity.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Dickson <bubba(at)coastalnet.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2000 7:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: electric flap covers
>
> I spent most of the day installing the electric flaps on my Rv-6A QB and
am
> down to fitting the side covers, EF-607 L&R. I'm trimming cardboard to get
> the basic fit, but I can't figure out what to do about the change in the
> seat bottom angle. Several comments in the archives indicate to trim the
> flange off forward of the seat bottom bend and make the shape work. Is
this
> what everyone is doing?The covers, of course, already have a flange bent
at
> the bottom, but it's straight and the edge it's supposed to fit isn't.
I'd
> appreciate any comments y'all would pass my way.
>
> Robert Dickson
> Fayetteville NC
> RV-6A flap actuator (seeing it move under power is cool!)
> Bob Barrows 0-360 (ordered), Hartzell CS (ordered)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Welch" <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aviation humour |
I disagree. Sometimes things can get just a little too dry and a
little bit of humor has its place. Lighten up slumlord.
Vince Welch
RV-8A Wings
Roaming Shores, Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: " theslumlord" <theslumlord(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2000 8:14 PM
Subject: RV-List: aviation humour
>
> as much as I enjoy aviation humour, It has no place on the list.
The last
> items from ATC conversations was funny, it was even funny when I
heard it 2
> years ago! There are many aviation humour sites on the net where
you can
> go. Let's keep this list pure to the intended purpose. By all
means use DO
> NOT ARCHIVE in your text if you don't want what you submit to wind
up
> forever in the archives.
> Now here is something you can use: Good building tip #5: before
securing a
> shaft or wire with a set screw, drop a piece of lead shot in the
hole and
> you get a custom fit shoe that will assume the contour of the shaft
and lock
> it in place without scoring or marking it!
> Ralph Bookout, Certified Slumlord
> 6 finishing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sequence of building |
Wayne,
Sequence looks pretty good, but I'd suggest two changes. First, the manual
calls for riveting the two rear floor skins in way earlier, and I'd suggest
doing it before painting the interior. Second, paint the empennage off the
fuselage before installing it for the second and last time -- small things
are easier to paint than large ones, especially painting the bottom of the
HS when mounted.
FWIW,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, sanding, sanding, and more sanding
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
Dear RV8ers:
I'm trying to determine the order of events as I progress. As I finish
cabin details many things start to hide or block others. I don't want to
repeat any steps where possible (assemble/disassemble). It looks like I
will need to go to the airport to do my first wing fitting since both wings
need to go on at the same time. I want to do this towards the end, if
possible. (My shop is not big enough for both wings.)
What do you think of the following order?
Get on gear
Hang engine
Determine location of all firewall components
Remove engine, begin firewall
Paint interior
Reinstall cabin components and controls/ pushrods
Permanently install rudder pedals/cables and brakes (already built)
Run all cabin aluminum lines
Complete buses and electrical wiring
Install instruments
Run all vacuum components
Rivet top skin
Install canopy (frame already on), then skirt
To airport to fit wings to fuselage and cut fairings
(Return to shop)
Reinstall engine
Complete engine systems installation
Install cowling
Install gear leg fairings
Reinstall empennage
Paint exterior
Return to airport for wing and control surface installation
Complete wiring related to wing systems
Rivet in floor
Thanks for your input.
Wayne Williams
Danville, VA
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Tach Drive Cover |
I think George Orndorf has them.
Steven DiNieri
.com>
Hi Guys,
Seems to me I remember a thread a while back on tach drive covers.
I need one for my Lycoming 0320.
If there are still some out there please contact me off list.
Thanks...
Larry Olson
Cave Creek, AZ
RV6 - Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Building Pert Chart |
"Charles L. Cotton" wrote:
> I decided to start a pert chart to remove as many surprises from the
> building process as possible. With pen and paper, I started listing the
> things I thought were the various decisions/acquisitions that should be
> made at certain times to avoid delays. Then I realized this was truly like
> the blind leading the blind. I haven't built an RV before, so I'm hardly
> qualified to create this list, at least not beyond the fairly obvious items
> none of us needed to reduce to writing.
Chas,
Most of us haven't built an RV before!
One point to think about regarding lead times and decision points...
some lead times are in terms of building hours, and others are in terms
of real time.
For example, deciding when to order the wing kit... there's a (fairly)
constant lead time that Vans publishes. There's also a (fairly) constant
time to ship parts from Vans to the builder (this will vary depending on
the builder's location).
You need to have an idea of your average build hours per week. When the
building weeks left on the empennage gets down to (Van's lead time +
shipping time), you need to order your empennage.
Perhaps it might be worth putting together a spreadsheet (I suggest
Excel format) which can be used as the builder's log and also provide
the Pert functions you suggest.
Incidentally, my "Build Time" Web page
http://fly.to/bunnysguide/btime.htm was intended as a rudimentary start
in the direction of your Pert chart. Feel free to use anything from it
that you might find useful in generating your Pert page.
> As an
> example, I don't know what I want to do about wing tips and I thought I
> didn't have to worry about it, until well into the wing kit. However, I've
> seen the threads on the wing tips with the landing lights and like that
> better than cutting the leading edge of the wing. However, the wing tips
> I've seen appear to require that I have the tail light in the rudder,
> because the wing tip strobe does not appear like it will be visible from
> the rear.
Not true... there are strobe/nav wingtip combinations that ensure the
strobe (and a white light) will be visible to the rear. Have a look at
the lighting options in Vans catalog.
Secondly, you can exchange your rudder bottom fairing with Vans for the
other style at some small freight cost if you live reasonably close.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linzel Gray Civ 43CES/CECP <Gray.Linzel(at)pope.af.mil> |
| Subject: | RE: RV3-List: re:trim control |
Linzel Gray Civ 43CES/CECP
I built my bare bones rv3 in 18 months. I averaged about 3 hours a day 7
days a week of construction time. I built mine from a complete kit from
vans that I recieved in 1994. Maybe one of the last ones shipped before the
production hold. My kit cost $6,500. Mine has no paint and a partial
electrical system, starter, batery, selonoid switch, push button starter. I
have a gravity feed fuselage tank with no fuel pumps. No lights and no
radios. It has a Sterba 68X72 prop that yields very low RPMs on takeoff but
tops out at 2750 RPM and about 215 top speed at almost any altitude.
Gray Linzel
300+ hours RV3
-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Stewart [mailto:bruces(at)shoalhaven.net.au]
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2000 11:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV3-List: re:trim control
--> RV3-List message posted by: Bruce Stewart
OK got it thanks to all.
Whats next? do I get divorsed now
or do I add ammenities to the shed
for the day I chucked out =:o) !!!!
It seems that the average build time here
in OZ is any thing between 1 year and 10+!
how much time did you guys take to build?
Bruce
>Bruce-
>
>On the newer plans (1984+) the placement of the elevator trim lever is
>difficult to see (going by the preview plans). It is on drawing 25 left
>side view, section D-D. Drawing 27 gives the attachment details.
>
>On the older plans (pre-1984) the elevator trim lever placement is easier
to
>see (full size plans anyway?) on drawing 16 left side view and the section
>J-J detail shows the actual lever and not just the cutout per the newer
>plans. Drawing 20 gives the attachment details (differ from the newer
>plans).
>
>Hope that helps?
>
>RV-3's forever!
>
>Rob Reece
>RV-3 SN45 "total rebuild" project
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Bruce Stewart" <bruces(at)shoalhaven.net.au>
>To:
>Sent: Friday, September 22, 2000 5:19 PM
>Subject: RV3-List: re:trim control
>
>
>> --> RV3-List message posted by: Bruce Stewart
>>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I've been pouring over the pre view set and I can't see where exactly
>> the trim control (lever) is installed? (not on the drawings I got
anyway).
>>
>> ???
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bruce
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: private grass strips |
--- Jerry Springer wrote:
>
> Danny Holder wrote:
> >
> >
> > My first posting - I'm interested in setting up a private grass
> strip at
> > home in Tennessee. What are the proper procedures one has to go
> through
> > to get things going?
> >
> >
>
>
> Danny I grew up with an airstrip on my dads property so I know how
> neat and convenient it can be.
> I think that the only way to really find out how to do it is to
> either just go ahead and do it and see what happens.
Hah!
Good answer! I know nothing of Tenn. but I do know this:
'Tis easier to get forgiveness than to get permission!
A tip though - talk with the neighbors. If they're happy about it,
especially those under the general take off direction, that's all that
matters.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Manual aileron trim |
>
>Anybody have any comments on the manual aileron trim for the RV-8? I just
>installed mine(not flying yet). It seems to drag on the smoothness of the
>controls. Not binding just not smooth.
>Is this noticeable in flight?
>
>Just curious,
>Ed Perry
>RV-8QB 180/CS
>edperry64(at)netzero.net
>
Ed,
Yes, it does add some tension to the stick but you won't notice it in
flight. I suppose if you got used to flying the plane without the trim
springs, it would take some getting used to once the trim was installed.
But, since you're starting off with it in place, well, you get the point. I
had to ream out the plastic rod bearing so the rod would slide properly
without binding. Just one of those things that needs some fine tuning. The
secret to getting the stick to feel balanced is in the rigging of the
ailerons. As long as the ailerons are rigged properly for hands off, wings
level flight, the spring tension will feel uniform.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
plane pictured in two newspapers AND the evening news. *grin*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: control stick mounting |
>
> > Brian,
>
> > If the bushing does not rotate about the bolt, then there is no reason
>to ream
> > the bushing to .0005 tollerance as called for in the plans (RV6). I
>think that
> > you'll find that the bushing should be tight in the stick assembly and
>rotate
> > around the bolt. Also if the bushing were supposed to rotate in the
>stick,
> > then the stick assembly would have to be reamed to fit the bushing.
>
>Dave
Dave,
Yes, this could work....however....*drumroll*...
With bushing fixed tight into the stick, thus rotating in assembly about the
bolt, the torque applied upon the nut will be very critical so as not to
squeeze the control column against the bushing...thus locking the
bushing/stick assembly in place. Plane won't fly like that. With the
bearing locked in place via the properly torqued and safetied nut, the stick
will swing freely.
Now I do recall that the stick had to be reamed out a bit to rotate about
the bushing. Not very much, but I think the welding operation caused a
slight bit of distortion which was cleared up nicely with a few passes of a
drill bit.
Brian Denk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Building Pert Chart |
Charles,
Let me suggest you spend some time with my construction log. Even though
I built a RV-6, the construction sequences will be similar and you will
get an overview of what gets built when.
The pert list will not really be necessary until you get to the
finishing stage. The airframe construction is rather straight forward
and you basically just follow the instructions and plans regardless of
the individual tweaks you will add later. I well remember the eagerness
with which I approached my project and the desire to get everything
"nailed down" at the onset of construction. However, you can't do it.
Too many options will be presented to you between now and the conclusion
of the project, many of which have not even hit the market yet! Just get
started building, continue your research as you build, and everything
will fall into place as you go.
Here is the URL:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/rv6.html
Good luck with your project!
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
==========================
"Charles L. Cotton" wrote:
>
>
> RV'ers:
>
> I'm in the process of setting up to build an RV-9A (purchase tools, prepare
> shop, etc.) and am trying to plan ahead as much as possible. Many
> decisions, preliminary at least, have been made concerning the panel,
> engine, prop, even the paint type and color. The project will go much
> smoother if the "I should have done it differently," or "I never thought of
> that" moments are kept to a minimum.
>
> I decided to start a pert chart to remove as many surprises from the
> building process as possible. With pen and paper, I started listing the
> things I thought were the various decisions/acquisitions that should be
> made at certain times to avoid delays. Then I realized this was truly like
> the blind leading the blind. I haven't built an RV before, so I'm hardly
> qualified to create this list, at least not beyond the fairly obvious items
> none of us needed to reduce to writing.
>
> This is where the experienced builders can help us all, not just those of
> us who are working on the empennage. You don't have to be flying your RV to
> contribute. Your experiences will benefit anyone who is not quite as far
> along in their project. (Remember the old joke, you don't have to be able
> to out run the bear, just your buddy?) There are other sources for
> construction tips such as the Frank Justice's Supplemental Instructions and
> Bunny's Guide to RV Building, so I'm thinking more along the lines of
> decisions that should be made by a certain point in construction. As an
> example, I don't know what I want to do about wing tips and I thought I
> didn't have to worry about it, until well into the wing kit. However, I've
> seen the threads on the wing tips with the landing lights and like that
> better than cutting the leading edge of the wing. However, the wing tips
> I've seen appear to require that I have the tail light in the rudder,
> because the wing tip strobe does not appear like it will be visible from
> the rear. Thus, I need to make a decision about the wing tips even before I
> buy the first kit! This is the type of delay/problem we all would like to
> avoid.
>
> If there is any interest, I would be happy to collect all
> responses/suggestions and post them on my web page under the title "RV
> Builders Pert Chart." A proposed organizational format tracking the order
> in which kits are purchased would be:
>
> General - For pre-construction matters/suggestions, or those not directly
> related to any particular stage of construction;
>
> Empennage Kit - (May be further subdivided into H. Stab., elevator; S.
> Stab., rudder
>
> Wing Kit - (May be further subdivided into fuel tanks, lights, ailerons,
> wing tips, etc.)
>
> Fuselage Kit - (Further subdivision is virtually limitless)
>
> Finishing Kit - (I don't know enough about finishing kits to say any more!)
>
> What do you think folks?
>
> Regards,
> Chas.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Aligning wing l.e. ribs |
On his video, George Orndorff used threaded rods, washers, and nuts through
the tooling holes of his wing leading edge ribs to keep them in alignment
with one another while drilling the skins. This seems to be a good method,
but I can't find 1/4" threaded rod in the length I need. Would it be
acceptable to drill out the forward tooling holes to 3/8" (the size I have)?
Also, since I have the newer pre-punched skins, this whole thing might be
overkill. Obviously, keeping those ribs in perfect alignment is necessary
when marking the inside of the skins for drilling, but that's not needed on
my skins.
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A N143DJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: private grass strips |
Hi Danny, check the archives for the last couple of weeks, I just asked that
same question and got several good responses. It looks like you get FAA
approval first, then go to the State and county.
Good luck
Kevin
-9A waiting for fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aligning wing l.e. ribs |
>
>
>On his video, George Orndorff used threaded rods, washers, and nuts through
>the tooling holes of his wing leading edge ribs to keep them in alignment
>with one another while drilling the skins. This seems to be a good method,
>but I can't find 1/4" threaded rod in the length I need. Would it be
>acceptable to drill out the forward tooling holes to 3/8" (the size I
>have)?
> Also, since I have the newer pre-punched skins, this whole thing might
>be
>overkill. Obviously, keeping those ribs in perfect alignment is necessary
>when marking the inside of the skins for drilling, but that's not needed on
>my skins.
>
>
>Jim Bower
>St. Louis, MO
>RV-6A N143DJ
>
Jim,
I tried the threaded rod technique, but it turned out to be more trouble
than it was worth. Just my experience here, it may work fine for others.
Anyway, I placed masking tape over the rib flanges and removed the inside
plastic film on the skins so they would slide somewhat easier on each other.
I used a four foot length of broomstick with a screw half inserted in the
end and bent at 90 degrees. This was used to prod the ribs into alignment
with the rivet holes so the sharpie pen marked rib flange centers could be
seen through the holes. Start drilling from the top, aft edge of the skin
and work your way forward to the leading edge. Adjust the cargo straps so
the skin is snug, but still allows the ribs to be tweaked into position.
Continue drilling over the leading edge and back to the spar. Stand back,
admire your work, and grin. Continue until plane flies. :)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Parsons" <dap(at)DParsons.com> |
| Subject: | private grass strips |
I would suggest you start buy reading FAR PART 157 - NOTICE OF CONSTRUCTION,
ALTERATION, ACTIVATION, AND DEACTIVATION OF AIRPORTS.
http://www.faa.gov/avr/AFS/FARS/far-157.txt
I did not read the whole thing, and what I did read I was somewhat skimming.
>From what I did start reading, I believe there is more to it than just
preparing the ground, and then just flying in and out of your property.
Also, I think it depends on how much you will be flying in and out. At the
very least, I would imagine you would want to make it as a close runway, and
you would want it included in the sectional for your area so other pilots at
least know to be looking for it and possible air traffic. You should also be
listed in the Airport Guide. There are two private strips within 6 miles of
my home like the one you want to setup. Both are listed in the Houston
Sectional and are in the Airport Guide. If you want to see how they are
listed, they are:
http://208.165.194.175/mapping/chart/aptrpt.cfm?A=7&id=55T
http://208.165.194.175/mapping/chart/aptrpt.cfm?A=7&id=55T
Note: These two strips are 2.3 nm apart from each other. Both of these
listings give a contact name and phone number. You might try calling them
and see if they would be willing to answer some of your questions on what
you need to do.
Hope this helps....
Don Parsons
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Aligning wing l.e. ribs |
You can use coupling nuts which are just long nuts to thread together any
length you need.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 9:15 AM
Subject: RV-List: Aligning wing l.e. ribs
>
> On his video, George Orndorff used threaded rods, washers, and nuts
through
> the tooling holes of his wing leading edge ribs to keep them in alignment
> with one another while drilling the skins. This seems to be a good
method,
> but I can't find 1/4" threaded rod in the length I need. Would it be
> acceptable to drill out the forward tooling holes to 3/8" (the size I
have)?
> Also, since I have the newer pre-punched skins, this whole thing might
be
> overkill. Obviously, keeping those ribs in perfect alignment is necessary
> when marking the inside of the skins for drilling, but that's not needed
on
> my skins.
>
>
> Jim Bower
> St. Louis, MO
> RV-6A N143DJ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Phillips" <mphill(at)fgi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aligning wing l.e. ribs |
Jim,you can buy a coupling for the threaded rod, I prefer that,easier to
manage.
Mark E Phillips
Williamsville,Illinois
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 9:15 AM
Subject: RV-List: Aligning wing l.e. ribs
>
> On his video, George Orndorff used threaded rods, washers, and nuts
through
> the tooling holes of his wing leading edge ribs to keep them in alignment
> with one another while drilling the skins. This seems to be a good
method,
> but I can't find 1/4" threaded rod in the length I need. Would it be
> acceptable to drill out the forward tooling holes to 3/8" (the size I
have)?
> Also, since I have the newer pre-punched skins, this whole thing might
be
> overkill. Obviously, keeping those ribs in perfect alignment is necessary
> when marking the inside of the skins for drilling, but that's not needed
on
> my skins.
>
>
> Jim Bower
> St. Louis, MO
> RV-6A N143DJ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Arnold de Brie" <ajdbrie(at)interestate.nl> |
| Subject: | Fw: RV8-List: airflow performance FS |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Arnold de Brie" <ajdbrie(at)interestate.nl>
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2000 9:11 AM
Subject: RV8-List: airflow performance FS
| --> RV8-List message posted by: "Arnold de Brie"
|
| I have an Airflow Perforformance system for sale
| It has been used for 50 hours on a O 360 A1A
|
| I acquired a new Lyc IO 360 for my RV8 project and had to restore the
other
| one in its original state.
|
| Anyone interested please contact me off list.
|
| Arnold de Brie
|
| ajdbrie(at)interestate.nl
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A- Cowling |
Hinges are nice cuz they are invisible and aerodynamic ***BUT*** they are
not easy to install or use. I can't possibly install the top cowl pins to
the curved part of the cowl. For now, I have two hinge pins that run the
straight part and two shorties that come up from the bottom corners for the
curves. I will replace these with screws or camlocs 1.5 or 2 inches OC.
This is a non S cowl.
I see no point in putting screws in the straight part as they look like
spam.....
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
> Anyone have any experience using camlocks with the S-Cowl for RV6A instead
of
> hinges? If so please let me know how many were used, where used and
whether
> it worked out as alternative.
> Thanks for the help.
> Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Help !! |
Listers:
I have run into a problem extending the canopy frame forward to the
windscreen roll over bar. The sides of the 821 upper skin block its path. I
called Vans and they said it will need to be trimmed. I ask where on the
plans this was shown but they said ti wasn't on the plans?
Did you guys have to trim this skin? Is it a butt joint? HELP !!!
Len Leggette, RV-8A
North Carolina (N901LL res)
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> |
| Subject: | Throttle quadrant curved cover |
Someone made a curved cover for their throttle quadrant that looked a lot
better than leaving it 'uncovered'. Anyone know who did that? I'm
searching for the pic.
Thanks,
Bill in Tucson
-8QB, ready for finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: control stick mounting |
In a message dated 9/24/00 2:17:09 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
ENewton57(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< I can't seem to get the bolt in through the bronze (brass?) bushing where
the
control stick mounts to the control column. >>
I had the same problem. Called Van's and they said to open it up with a
reamer. I did that and it fits snug on the AN4 bolt as it should. The stick
is supposed to rotate around the bushing. I also had to file the ends of the
bushing housing ( the tube at the end of the stick) a little so that the
bushing sticks out just enough on each end so that the bushing gets clamped
in the yoke. Hope thats clear and that it helps.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | F-604 Bulkhead Height |
I am mounting and lining up the Main Wing Spar Bulkhead (F604) in my fuselage
jig. I am trying to get the height of 25.16 inches (from Jig crossbeam to
bottom of "V" in bulkhead that the plans call for. The overall length of the
bulkhead from the "V" to the top of the side pieces is 24" So logically, the
height of my bulkhead is 24 1/8". How do you get the 25.18" and still keep
the top longeron against the jig crossmember?
Thanks
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William M. Costello" <WMCEnt(at)enteract.com> |
Hi Folks,
AVWeb is offering a tire special for its readers from
Desser.
I am not familiar with tire prices, so I don't know how
great
the prices are. Only good till Oct 1.
Those in the market for tires, check out
http://www.desser.com/avweb.html
Best regards,
Bill Costello
wmcent(at)enteract.com
Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | private airstrips |
RV community members:
There are several approaches one could take to the establishment of a private
airstrip: the asking permission approach, and the asking forgiveness
approach. I tried a blend of the two, asking permission of the county where
most of the runway lies, and ignoring the "minority county." They called me
on it, and I had to jump through their hoops anyway.
It is my opinion that there is no way to get FAA approval without first
satisfying the local government at all levels. If I thought there was any
other way, I would have tried. Be forewarned that, IMO, you stand no chance
of getting into a database or onto the sectional if you don't register "by
the book." Perhaps being unlisted is a good thing? Depends on your
purposes. I can say this: a private airstrip is a wonderful thing. In
spite of the obstacles to registration, and the cost and labor of
constructing and maintianing one, it is so worth it. I am hard pressed to
say which I value more: having my own homebuilt plane or my own backyard
airstrip. Certainly, the combination of the two is blessing upon blessing.
I catch myself enjoying the lawn-mowing chore a bit more than is normal for a
man facing housework. Cruising slowly up and down the expansive length of
that luxurious green carpet and smelling the bluegrass clippings... aaahhh.
Maybe Buster can pen an Ode to the Turf Strip one day (hint.)
I would like to propose an idea, a concept. We all know that General
Aviation is under pressure from all sides, and that our beloved pursuit of
recreational flying hangs in a precarious legislative balance. One stroke of
the pen and another GA airport is closed, another expensive and half-baked AD
is promulgated, another scenic area closed to overflights, and so on. I've
not given this much thought yet, but it seems to me that it would help our
cause if there was a general proliferation of private airstrips. This would
be doubly true if said airstrips were owned by people with an open heart
toward their fellow fliers, if they were readily shared with any and all
aviators who had a whim to drop in, and if responsible citizen/neighbors were
invited to base a plane or two thereon.
If I am correct, then we should all, as many as have an opportunity to do so,
be looking for chances to swell the number of private fields dotting the
landscape. They may one day be the only places we are welcome in our small
planes. And I would encourage all of them to be listed in the RV White
Pages, so we know where we are welcome on our cross-country sojourns. Let's
dot the sectionals with as many "Circle-R's" as possible. There's a power in
numbers that may become our last hope as private aviatiors one day.
Enough rambling. Buck those rivets and keep believing it's more than worth
it!
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320 Sensenich FP
Hop-Along Airfield 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: control stick mounting |
In a message dated 9/24/00 8:05:11 PM Pacific Daylight Time, bj034(at)lafn.org
writes:
<< I think that you'll find that the bushing should be tight in the stick
assembly and rotate around the bolt. >>
I don't mean to start a flap over this but that is not the explanation that I
got from Van's. According to what I was told the stick should rotate around
the bushing. Maybe Scott McD will chime in on this pretty soon and sort it
out.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Help !! |
>
>Listers:
>
>I have run into a problem extending the canopy frame forward to the
>windscreen roll over bar. The sides of the 821 upper skin block its path.
>I
>called Vans and they said it will need to be trimmed. I ask where on the
>plans this was shown but they said ti wasn't on the plans?
>
>Did you guys have to trim this skin? Is it a butt joint? HELP !!!
>
>Len Leggette, RV-8A
>North Carolina (N901LL res)
>Finish Kit
Howdy, Len,
Have you recovered from the green chile episode yet? hehe.
Yes, you do have to trim back the 821. Make it a close butt joint with the
canopy skirt at the forward canopy frame rib. The windshield fairing that
you get to glop together with epoxyglass will be extended down to overlay
the skirt in the fully closed position.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sequence of building |
Wayne and Cindy,
I think you are in danger of wearing out some of the parts by installing and
removing etc.
Like, install engine once and be done with it, etc.
Maybe I am the one doing it the hard way but I installed the engine then
drilled the firewall and ran cables etc. Run the most inflexible things
first. I found the control cables to be this but I used a real airplane
mixture cable which is stiffer and hard to figure how to fit. Then the
fuel line. Then cooling and heating air tubes. Finally, the wiring. Just
before you are ready to fly, attach the forward top skin, canopy and
windscreen.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
Wayne and Cindy wrote:
> What do you think of the following order?
>
> Get on gear
> Hang engine
> Determine location of all firewall components
> Remove engine, begin firewall
> Paint interior
> Reinstall cabin components and controls/ pushrods
> Permanently install rudder pedals/cables and brakes (already built)
> Run all cabin aluminum lines
> Complete buses and electrical wiring
> Install instruments
> Run all vacuum components
> Rivet top skin
> Install canopy (frame already on), then skirt
> To airport to fit wings to fuselage and cut fairings
> (Return to shop)
> Reinstall engine
> Complete engine systems installation
> Install cowling
> Install gear leg fairings
> Reinstall empennage
> Paint exterior
> Return to airport for wing and control surface installation
> Complete wiring related to wing systems
> Rivet in floor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Building Pert Chart |
Just a detailed task list with precedence would be a great help, Chas.
Times would be pretty weird coming from different builders etc.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Help !! |
Len,
Trim as needed. This should be about 1/4 inch on the side with more
toward the top (top of the aft piece of top skin). The top gets rounded as
needed to clear the frame.
Keep in mind many people cover this area when they extend the fiberglass
(or Kevlar) windscreen fairing down the side below the canopy rails. I'll
have about a 1/8 inch clearance between the skin and the canopy fairing on
the sides, this joint will be cover for about 1/2 inch by the windscreen
fairing (the canopy fairing will slide under the windscreen fairing).
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (cowl)
Vienna, VA
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 12:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy Help !!
>
> Listers:
>
> I have run into a problem extending the canopy frame forward to the
> windscreen roll over bar. The sides of the 821 upper skin block its path.
I
> called Vans and they said it will need to be trimmed. I ask where on the
> plans this was shown but they said ti wasn't on the plans?
>
> Did you guys have to trim this skin? Is it a butt joint? HELP !!!
>
> Len Leggette, RV-8A
> North Carolina (N901LL res)
> Finish Kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aligning wing l.e. ribs |
Jim,
I didn't use the rod method at all, it is only really useful for
non-prepunched. I just made the lines down the center of the rib flange, then
reached in and moved them by hand until the line showed in the skin holes and
drilled. Turned out beautifully. For the hard to reach ribs in the middle, get
yourself a piece of thick dowel (3/4 inch or so, 2 ft long) and pound a roofing
nail in one end, leaving it out a 1/2 inch. This makes a great tool for
reaching through lightening holes to move those hard to reach ribs back and
forth.
Jeff Point
-6 wings
Milwaukee, WI
Jim Bower wrote:
> Also, since I have the newer pre-punched skins, this whole thing might be
> overkill. Obviously, keeping those ribs in perfect alignment is necessary
> when marking the inside of the skins for drilling, but that's not needed on
> my skins.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: control stick mounting |
09/25/2000 01:49:26 PM
Grasp the bushing with a v-block, squashed in a vise. Reaming took 5
seconds. Besure not to squeez the bushing to tight or otherwise distort it
while clamping it.
HCRV6(at)AOL.COM@matronics.com on 09/25/2000 12:19:17 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to HCRV6(at)AOL.COM
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: control stick mounting
In a message dated 9/24/00 2:17:09 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
ENewton57(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< I can't seem to get the bolt in through the bronze (brass?) bushing
where
the
control stick mounts to the control column. >>
I had the same problem. Called Van's and they said to open it up with a
reamer. I did that and it fits snug on the AN4 bolt as it should. The
stick
is supposed to rotate around the bushing. I also had to file the ends of
the
bushing housing ( the tube at the end of the stick) a little so that the
bushing sticks out just enough on each end so that the bushing gets clamped
in the yoke. Hope thats clear and that it helps.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | voltage reg/protector |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I used an external regulated 50 amp alternator from a ford van. P/N
14118. It is large but everyithing else I hunted was also. I will likey
build a hump on the cowling. I went from $200.00 to $35.00 with the core
charge at Auto Zone.
The voltage regulator was a 80 ford Van. P/N was VR749 & cost $10.00.
If you use an internal voltage regulator, Bob has diagrams to use relays
for the OV protection.
Your bring 12 volts from a 15 amp fuse to a 5 amp breaker to the master
switch. Why, I have no idea. Looks like one fuse would do it. bob wants
the alt circiut to come on & off with the master so I used his 701-2-5. I
use a fuse that is not "get to ably" so the breaker can be used in flight
to turn off the alternator. Now if something goes wrong, that is post to
take the alternator control voltage off lline.
Next you install his Over Voltage assembly. I thought I got ripped off
when it got here because it is not as big as the 70 amp inline fuse he
wants. This thing ties into the wire controlling the voltage Regulator.
If it sees an OV it saps the 5a breaker & takes the alternator off line.
Next you buy a 70 amp inline fuss between the altenator output to the
battery. I wanted it on the alternator, but it is to large. I installed
it on the front side of the start relay. Had to redrill the 1/4 hole to
5/16. This would take the alternator out also.
The line from the alternator to the start relay & the line from the
master relay to the buss is 4 ga. I would use 6 ga, but the wire &
connectors were bought. I had to build a copper bar to get from the very
large conncetor to the #10 size post on the buss. Same thing with the
alternator. I have a #10 stud to connect to a 1/4 hole on the 4 ga.
If you havn't been to Bob's course at least by his Book. Its realy good.
Don Jordan -- 6A finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
>
> I need a part # for an auto voltage regulator and I understand Bob
> N. sells a
> circuit protector. Not sure on all of this ele stuff and the names,
> so you
> have to bare with me.
> Carey Mills
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | RV-3 Wheel shimmey update |
As those of you who followed the wheel shimmy thread about a year ago
know, I had bad fore-aft shimmy of my wheels at about 20 mph. Tried
everything: low tire pressure, balancing wheels, tightening the axle
nut. I finally gave in and put on the wood strips as per the manual. As
I used too small strips I still had shimmy at 20 mph but acceptable in
that I could accelerate and brake through it before it built up.
Well, during taxiing and initial first flights I was too heavily on the
brakes and wore the right tire down to the tube.
I replaced the both tires with recapped (rethreaded?) ones and happened
to get the Condor brand. The original McCreary tires from 1977 weighed
about 3 pounds, the Condors about 5.5 pounds.
Very noticeable difference! Shimmy almost nonexistent now. Although the
original tires could have been out of balance, I suspect that the weight
is what makes the difference.
Finn
Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Lighting options |
As usual, there are as many lighting options as there are builders! I want
to use the flush wingtip-mounted lenses (Van's catalog) because I think they
look cool. To this end, I ordered the emp kit with the taillight fairing,
and I plan to use a combination tail light/strobe.
The problem: Van's 3-strobe light kit uses a single power supply. This
seems unpopular because of radio noise and long high-voltage leads. Three
power supplies seem heavy and expensive. I would really like to hear some
input and ideas from all of you who have been down this road.
Thanks in advance for all your good advice.
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A N143DJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joesph Friday" <jammin32123(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV 4 Parts on Ebay |
Have many of you gotten much stuff off Ebay? I have had good luck with most
everything I have gotten there. There seem to be a few things for RV's at
any time.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | : F-604 Bulkhead Height |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Eric, its been a while & I am lost from your question.
You know the 604 sits on top of the longeron & is tilted forward in the
jig for a 1 degree incidence angle.
From 25.16 I can take out 3/4 for the longeron ( the 604 sits on top of
the longeron in the fixture)
& 23 from the side length. That leaves 1.41 inches for the angle portion.
I think I made the 25.16 & checked for level across the 604 & drilled the
insert pcs to hold that.
Don Jordan -- 6A finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
>
> I am mounting and lining up the Main Wing Spar Bulkhead (F604) in my
> fuselage
> jig. I am trying to get the height of 25.16 inches (from Jig
> crossbeam to
> bottom of "V" in bulkhead that the plans call for. The overall
> length of the
> bulkhead from the "V" to the top of the side pieces is 24" So
> logically, the
> height of my bulkhead is 24 1/8". How do you get the 25.18" and
> still keep
> the top longeron against the jig crossmember?
> Thanks
>
> Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
> RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage)
> Eric's RV-6A
>
> Construction Page
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | private airstrips |
<>
Bill:
I found that it is not necessary to get local approval prior to getting FAA
approval. You only need to submit FAA Form 7480-1, "Notice of Landing Area
Proposal", to the Airports District Office that handles your area. The
purpose of the FAA review is to conduct an airspace study to determine if
your proposal will pose a hazard to existing airspace use. I submitted my
form to the Minneapolis ADO on 4/11/99 and on 5/24/99 the ADO sent me a
letter stating that there were no objections to my proposal. Those that
grumble about government interference in their lives should realize that by
following this procedure, you are protecting your airstrip from a neighbor
who may want to build an airstrip that interferes with yours. There is
another private airstrip several miles from mine and the FAA sent the owner
a letter asking if he had any objections to my airstrip (he didn't). The
state Bureau of Aeronautics (Wisconsin) was very helpful in getting the
forms filled out properly and actually forwarded the FAA form to Minneapolis
after checking it for errors. I received permission from the state during
this same time frame. There were no fees charged by either the state or the
feds. All of this was done before ever contacting the local government
officials. I think that having the state and federal approvals in hand prior
to talking to the local officials helped indicate to them that I was being
responsible and made it easier to clear their hurdles. (The local township
and county approvals were more of a hassle and did involve some fees but all
was accomplished by 9/13/00.)
Bill, I also agree that private airstrips are a wonderful thing and I can't
hardly wait for my RV to be completed so that I can fully utilize my
airstrip.
Chris Heitman
Heitman Field
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
installing wingtip lights, waiting for fuselage
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: RV-3 Wheel shimmey update |
In a message dated 09/25/2000 12:19:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
finnlassen(at)netzero.net writes:
> As those of you who followed the wheel shimmy thread about a year ago
> know, I had bad fore-aft shimmy of my wheels at about 20 mph. Tried
> everything: low tire pressure, balancing wheels, tightening the axle
> nut. I finally gave in and put on the wood strips as per the manual. As
> I used too small strips I still had shimmy at 20 mph but acceptable in
> that I could accelerate and brake through it before it built up.
(Snip)
>
> Finn
>
Hi Finn,
Did you try balancing the wheel pants?
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Holder <holder(at)multipro.com> |
| Subject: | Re: private grass strips |
Thanks for the information,,,
Danny
Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Hi Danny, check the archives for the last couple of weeks, I just asked that
> same question and got several good responses. It looks like you get FAA
> approval first, then go to the State and county.
> Good luck
> Kevin
> -9A waiting for fuse
>
--
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begin:vcard
n:Holder;Danny
url:www.homestead.com/wittlewattles/index.html
adr:;;;;;;
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email;internet:www.homestead.com/wittlewattles/index.html
note:Check this site out for hand-crafted baby rattles
fn:Danny Holder
end:vcard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Holder <holder(at)multipro.com> |
| Subject: | Re: private airstrips |
Thanks for the information!!!
Danny
SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> RV community members:
>
> There are several approaches one could take to the establishment of a private
> airstrip: the asking permission approach, and the asking forgiveness
> approach. I tried a blend of the two, asking permission of the county where
> most of the runway lies, and ignoring the "minority county." They called me
> on it, and I had to jump through their hoops anyway.
>
> It is my opinion that there is no way to get FAA approval without first
> satisfying the local government at all levels. If I thought there was any
> other way, I would have tried. Be forewarned that, IMO, you stand no chance
> of getting into a database or onto the sectional if you don't register "by
> the book." Perhaps being unlisted is a good thing? Depends on your
> purposes. I can say this: a private airstrip is a wonderful thing. In
> spite of the obstacles to registration, and the cost and labor of
> constructing and maintianing one, it is so worth it. I am hard pressed to
> say which I value more: having my own homebuilt plane or my own backyard
> airstrip. Certainly, the combination of the two is blessing upon blessing.
> I catch myself enjoying the lawn-mowing chore a bit more than is normal for a
> man facing housework. Cruising slowly up and down the expansive length of
> that luxurious green carpet and smelling the bluegrass clippings... aaahhh.
> Maybe Buster can pen an Ode to the Turf Strip one day (hint.)
>
> I would like to propose an idea, a concept. We all know that General
> Aviation is under pressure from all sides, and that our beloved pursuit of
> recreational flying hangs in a precarious legislative balance. One stroke of
> the pen and another GA airport is closed, another expensive and half-baked AD
> is promulgated, another scenic area closed to overflights, and so on. I've
> not given this much thought yet, but it seems to me that it would help our
> cause if there was a general proliferation of private airstrips. This would
> be doubly true if said airstrips were owned by people with an open heart
> toward their fellow fliers, if they were readily shared with any and all
> aviators who had a whim to drop in, and if responsible citizen/neighbors were
> invited to base a plane or two thereon.
>
> If I am correct, then we should all, as many as have an opportunity to do so,
> be looking for chances to swell the number of private fields dotting the
> landscape. They may one day be the only places we are welcome in our small
> planes. And I would encourage all of them to be listed in the RV White
> Pages, so we know where we are welcome on our cross-country sojourns. Let's
> dot the sectionals with as many "Circle-R's" as possible. There's a power in
> numbers that may become our last hope as private aviatiors one day.
>
> Enough rambling. Buck those rivets and keep believing it's more than worth
> it!
>
> Bill Boyd
> RV-6A O-320 Sensenich FP
> Hop-Along Airfield 12VA
> Clifton Forge, VA
>
--
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filename="holder.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Holder;Danny
url:www.homestead.com/wittlewattles/index.html
adr:;;;;;;
version:2.1
email;internet:www.homestead.com/wittlewattles/index.html
note:Check this site out for hand-crafted baby rattles
fn:Danny Holder
end:vcard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Holder <holder(at)multipro.com> |
| Subject: | Re: private grass strips |
Thanks for the word!!!!!
Danny
Mike Thompson wrote:
>
> --- Jerry Springer wrote:
> >
> > Danny Holder wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > My first posting - I'm interested in setting up a private grass
> > strip at
> > > home in Tennessee. What are the proper procedures one has to go
> > through
> > > to get things going?
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > Danny I grew up with an airstrip on my dads property so I know how
> > neat and convenient it can be.
> > I think that the only way to really find out how to do it is to
> > either just go ahead and do it and see what happens.
>
> Hah!
> Good answer! I know nothing of Tenn. but I do know this:
> 'Tis easier to get forgiveness than to get permission!
>
> A tip though - talk with the neighbors. If they're happy about it,
> especially those under the general take off direction, that's all that
> matters.
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Fuselage
>
> Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
>
--
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filename="holder.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Holder;Danny
url:www.homestead.com/wittlewattles/index.html
adr:;;;;;;
version:2.1
email;internet:www.homestead.com/wittlewattles/index.html
note:Check this site out for hand-crafted baby rattles
fn:Danny Holder
end:vcard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Holder <holder(at)multipro.com> |
| Subject: | Re: private grass strips |
Thanks for the information...
Danny
Jerry Springer wrote:
>
> Danny Holder wrote:
> >
> >
> > My first posting - I'm interested in setting up a private grass strip at
> > home in Tennessee. What are the proper procedures one has to go through
> > to get things going?
> >
> >
>
> Danny I grew up with an airstrip on my dads property so I know how
> neat and convenient it can be.
> I think that the only way to really find out how to do it is to
> either just go ahead and do it and see what happens. Most likely
> you well have to go to the county that you live in and jump
> through all the hoops they want you to. It would be pretty hard
> to find a correct answer here because each state and county well be
> different. The FAA well most likely leave it up to the locals
> to give their approval first before they do.
>
--
name="holder.vcf"
filename="holder.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Holder;Danny
url:www.homestead.com/wittlewattles/index.html
adr:;;;;;;
version:2.1
email;internet:www.homestead.com/wittlewattles/index.html
note:Check this site out for hand-crafted baby rattles
fn:Danny Holder
end:vcard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> |
Thanks all for your suggestions. Well today I did a
half dozen take off's and landings. Made no progress
(after adjusting the hub screw) except on the last
take off I noticed as I applied full throttle the rpm
jumped right up to 2700 rpm very briefly then back to
24 to 2500rpm. upon reachin pattern altitude nose down
and back up to 2700rpm. Will Check the rpm with and
outside gage (Possibly the cable to the tach somehow
slips when accelaration is occuring.)When I find the
problem I'll try Bill's tech. Thanks again
RV6A 100HRS with baffling R'S still smiling.
do not archieve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
Is there a quality problem with back riveting as many rivets as are
accessible? Does back riveting provide an equal (or better)amount of
clamping force as face riveting?
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR (APPLIED FOR)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: F-604 Bulkhead Height |
In a message dated 9/25/00 11:35:02 AM Central Daylight Time,
ENewton57(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< I am mounting and lining up the Main Wing Spar Bulkhead (F604) in my
fuselage
jig. I am trying to get the height of 25.16 inches (from Jig crossbeam to
bottom of "V" in bulkhead that the plans call for. The overall length of
the
bulkhead from the "V" to the top of the side pieces is 24" So logically,
the
height of my bulkhead is 24 1/8". How do you get the 25.18" and still keep
the top longeron against the jig crossmember?
Thanks >>
Hi listers,
I called Vans and got my answer. I didn't pay close enough attention and
didn't notice that the bulkhead sides sit on top of the upright edge of the
longeron. I had mine slid down inside the longeron. Like Tom at Van's said
"that would leave a 1/8" gap for you skin to go across". Anyway, once I set
the bulkhead on top of the longerons and set the correct incidence, it
measured just right.
Thanks for the responses off list and on.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Holder <holder(at)multipro.com> |
| Subject: | Re: private airstrips |
Thanks for the information...
Danny
C J Heitman wrote:
>
> < without first satisfying the local government at all levels.>>
>
> Bill:
> I found that it is not necessary to get local approval prior to getting FAA
> approval. You only need to submit FAA Form 7480-1, "Notice of Landing Area
> Proposal", to the Airports District Office that handles your area. The
> purpose of the FAA review is to conduct an airspace study to determine if
> your proposal will pose a hazard to existing airspace use. I submitted my
> form to the Minneapolis ADO on 4/11/99 and on 5/24/99 the ADO sent me a
> letter stating that there were no objections to my proposal. Those that
> grumble about government interference in their lives should realize that by
> following this procedure, you are protecting your airstrip from a neighbor
> who may want to build an airstrip that interferes with yours. There is
> another private airstrip several miles from mine and the FAA sent the owner
> a letter asking if he had any objections to my airstrip (he didn't). The
> state Bureau of Aeronautics (Wisconsin) was very helpful in getting the
> forms filled out properly and actually forwarded the FAA form to Minneapolis
> after checking it for errors. I received permission from the state during
> this same time frame. There were no fees charged by either the state or the
> feds. All of this was done before ever contacting the local government
> officials. I think that having the state and federal approvals in hand prior
> to talking to the local officials helped indicate to them that I was being
> responsible and made it easier to clear their hurdles. (The local township
> and county approvals were more of a hassle and did involve some fees but all
> was accomplished by 9/13/00.)
>
> Bill, I also agree that private airstrips are a wonderful thing and I can't
> hardly wait for my RV to be completed so that I can fully utilize my
> airstrip.
>
> Chris Heitman
> Heitman Field
> Dousman WI
> RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
> installing wingtip lights, waiting for fuselage
> http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
>
--
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filename="holder.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Holder;Danny
url:www.homestead.com/wittlewattles/index.html
adr:;;;;;;
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email;internet:www.homestead.com/wittlewattles/index.html
note:Check this site out for hand-crafted baby rattles
fn:Danny Holder
end:vcard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: voltage reg/protector |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>I used an external regulated 50 amp alternator from a ford van. P/N
>14118. It is large but everyithing else I hunted was also. I will likey
>build a hump on the cowling. I went from $200.00 to $35.00 with the core
>charge at Auto Zone.
>
>The voltage regulator was a 80 ford Van. P/N was VR749 & cost $10.00.
>If you use an internal voltage regulator, Bob has diagrams to use relays
>for the OV protection.
>
>Your bring 12 volts from a 15 amp fuse to a 5 amp breaker to the master
>switch. Why, I have no idea. Looks like one fuse would do it. bob wants
>the alt circiut to come on & off with the master so I used his 701-2-5. I
>use a fuse that is not "get to ably" so the breaker can be used in flight
>to turn off the alternator. Now if something goes wrong, that is post to
>take the alternator control voltage off lline.
The idea was that the line between the bus (remote mounted fuse block)
and the panel mounted c/b was protected. Turns out there are some pretty
whimpy breakers out there that took so long to open with an OV fault
that the 15A fuse would go first . . . hence the fusible link shown
on the latest drawings.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Weight and Balance-JACKING AIRCRAFT |
09/25/2000 02:17:48 PM
How about two of Vans axil jack adaptors and two cheap hydrolic 4-wheeled
creeper jacks ( Wal-Mart @ 19.99). Thats how we did the 3 RV's here in
south NJ.... be sure to pile on the wheel and wheel pant onto the jack. The
4 wheeled jack is positioned onto a scale. Subtract the weight of the jack
and axil-jack adaptor..... When yourall done you now have 2 jacks that
making rotating your tires a snap (both on the aircraft and your car(s))
fasching(at)amigo.net@matronics.com on 09/21/2000 07:08:44 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to
fasching(at)amigo.net
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Weight and Balance
I have done two W&B's on my RV6A....once upon completion, again after
painting it. It scares the begeebers out of me to jack up high enough to
get it into a flight level attitude.
I plan to add some stuff to the plane soon and would again need to do a
W&B....what clever methods have you used to avoid getting the mains so high
that a slip off the pile of timbers (or whatever) would cause damage?
I thought of putting the mains on scales on the edge of the taxiway, and
digging a trench into the dirt just off the blacktop to run the nose wheel
into and up on another scale so that nothing is high enough to endanger me
or the plane.
Ideas?
RV6A Flying
Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: RV-3 Wheel shimmey update |
No wheel pants nor leg fairings yet. It's very possible that the added weight
of the pants would further dampen the shimmy.
Finn
LessDragProd(at)aol.com wrote:
> --> RV3-List message posted by: LessDragProd(at)aol.com
>
> In a message dated 09/25/2000 12:19:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> finnlassen(at)netzero.net writes:
>
> > As those of you who followed the wheel shimmy thread about a year ago
> > know, I had bad fore-aft shimmy of my wheels at about 20 mph. Tried
> > everything: low tire pressure, balancing wheels, tightening the axle
> > nut. I finally gave in and put on the wood strips as per the manual. As
> > I used too small strips I still had shimmy at 20 mph but acceptable in
> > that I could accelerate and brake through it before it built up.
> (Snip)
> >
> > Finn
> >
> Hi Finn,
>
> Did you try balancing the wheel pants?
>
> Jim Ayers
> RV-3 N47RV
>
Why pay for something you could get for free?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: voltage reg/protector |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>I need a part # for an auto voltage regulator and I understand Bob N.
sells a
>circuit protector. Not sure on all of this ele stuff and the names, so you
>have to bare with me.
>Carey Mills
What kind of alternator do you have? Do you have our book or
have you downloaded articles and/or wiring diagrams from
our website?
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | F687/F606 Attachment |
Hi folks,
I have to admit to being a little unhappy this evening - I am a bit
flummoxed over how to attach the 687 rib to the 606 bulkhead.
There are some hits in the archives, but they do not address my
problem, Frank J. is vague (unbelievable!), Frank V. doesn't mention
it, and, well, here's the problem:
When I line up the 687 on the centerline the front flange sits right
where I placed that nice line of flush (forward) rivets which hold the
606 bulkhead together.
I've re-read the manual and notes on the bulkhead assembly and there is
no mention of allowing for this development. I can only surmise that I
am to drill out the rivets and back-drill through the 606 into the 687
flange, then rivet the whole thing together.
Am I missing something? This had to happen - progress was going so
well!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | control stick mounting |
I hastily reamed mine out with a drill bit and have a bit of slop on one
side. So while we're on the subject just what is the specific part number
for the bushing itself...I've stuck away those plans and have been too lazy
to look it up ...
Steven DiNieri
Grasp the bushing with a v-block, squashed in a vise. Reaming took 5
seconds. Besure not to squeez the bushing to tight or otherwise distort it
while clamping it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
Linzel Gray Civ 43CES/CECP
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV3-List: re:trim control |
Linzel
What size engine and what was your empty weight?
Tom
RV3
Linzel Gray Civ 43CES/CECP wrote:
>
> I built my bare bones rv3 in 18 months. I averaged about 3 hours a day 7
> days a week of construction time. I built mine from a complete kit from
> vans that I recieved in 1994. Maybe one of the last ones shipped before the
> production hold. My kit cost $6,500. Mine has no paint and a partial
> electrical system, starter, batery, selonoid switch, push button starter. I
> have a gravity feed fuselage tank with no fuel pumps. No lights and no
> radios. It has a Sterba 68X72 prop that yields very low RPMs on takeoff but
> tops out at 2750 RPM and about 215 top speed at almost any altitude.
>
> Gray Linzel
> 300+ hours RV3
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Stewart [mailto:bruces(at)shoalhaven.net.au]
> Sent: Friday, September 22, 2000 11:21 PM
> To: Rob Reece; rv3-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV3-List: re:trim control
>
> --> RV3-List message posted by: Bruce Stewart
>
> OK got it thanks to all.
>
> Whats next? do I get divorsed now
> or do I add ammenities to the shed
> for the day I chucked out =:o) !!!!
>
> It seems that the average build time here
> in OZ is any thing between 1 year and 10+!
> how much time did you guys take to build?
>
> Bruce
>
> >Bruce-
> >
> >On the newer plans (1984+) the placement of the elevator trim lever is
> >difficult to see (going by the preview plans). It is on drawing 25 left
> >side view, section D-D. Drawing 27 gives the attachment details.
> >
> >On the older plans (pre-1984) the elevator trim lever placement is easier
> to
> >see (full size plans anyway?) on drawing 16 left side view and the section
> >J-J detail shows the actual lever and not just the cutout per the newer
> >plans. Drawing 20 gives the attachment details (differ from the newer
> >plans).
> >
> >Hope that helps?
> >
> >RV-3's forever!
> >
> >Rob Reece
> >RV-3 SN45 "total rebuild" project
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Bruce Stewart" <bruces(at)shoalhaven.net.au>
> >To:
> >Sent: Friday, September 22, 2000 5:19 PM
> >Subject: RV3-List: re:trim control
> >
> >
> >> --> RV3-List message posted by: Bruce Stewart
> >>
> >> Hi All,
> >>
> >> I've been pouring over the pre view set and I can't see where exactly
> >> the trim control (lever) is installed? (not on the drawings I got
> anyway).
> >>
> >> ???
> >>
> >> Thanks
> >> Bruce
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Tire Special |
In a message dated 9/25/00 3:45:02 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
akroguy(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< I just ordered a set of Condors including tubes for $132 including
shipping.
Pretty good deal from what I can determine. The kit tires (Air Trainers)
won't last very long for getting used to a first RV. So, I figure a set of
higher grade tires, and better landings (hoping) will yield longer tire
life. We'll see! >>
My original Aero Trainers lasted 150 hrs TT on my 6A. I then put the Condors
on and they are a little less than halfway thru their tread at 350 hrs TT.
They are a good value, run smooth and have a lot harder compound.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: F687/F606 Attachment |
In a message dated 9/25/00 7:54:59 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
grobdriver(at)yahoo.com writes:
<< I can only surmise that I am to drill out the rivets and back-drill
through the 606 into the 687 flange, then rivet the whole thing together. >>
That's exactly what I had to do, so for whatever small comfort it is you
won't be the first.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on elevator push/pull tubes ( taking a break from the canopy)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: control stick mounting |
I stand corrected folks, I re-read the plans and they say to ream the ID on the
stick assembly for .005 clearance, not the ID of the bushing. Actually this makes
more sense and if I remember correctly I think that's the way I did it.
Dave N87DL
Dave Bristol wrote:
>
> > Brian,
>
> > If the bushing does not rotate about the bolt, then there is no reason to ream
> > the bushing to .0005 tollerance as called for in the plans (RV6). I think that
> > you'll find that the bushing should be tight in the stick assembly and rotate
> > around the bolt. Also if the bushing were supposed to rotate in the stick,
> > then the stick assembly would have to be reamed to fit the bushing.
>
> Dave
>
> Brian Denk wrote:
>
> >
> > I had to ream out the bushings with a 1/4" drill bit. I used cutting oil,
> > and clamped the rag protected bushings in a vice. Once the AN4 bolt will
> > slip through without force, the next task is to trim the bushings to length
> > so they are just slightly longer than the stick. The bushing is fixed in
> > place when the nut is tightened down in the final assembly. So, the stick
> > rotates about the bushing/bolt assembly which does not rotate. Polish the
> > outer surface of the bushing to get a nice, smooth, non-binding fit in the
> > stick weldment. You want free motion here, but no excess slop either.
> >
> > This is how it's done in my RV8, but I reckon the -6 follows the same
> > concept.
> >
> > Brian Denk
> > RV8 N94BD
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle quadrant curved cover |
>
>Someone made a curved cover for their throttle quadrant that looked a lot
>better than leaving it 'uncovered'. Anyone know who did that? I'm
>searching for the pic.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bill in Tucson
Do you mean Lyle Hefel's RV-8? Pictures at:
http://www.egroups.com/files/rv8list/
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.nbci.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Weight and Balance-JACKING AIRCRAFT |
--- pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
>
> How about two of Vans axil jack adaptors and two cheap hydrolic
> 4-wheeled
> creeper jacks ( Wal-Mart @ 19.99). Thats how we did the 3 RV's here
> in south NJ....
Or you could not _jack_ it up - and lift it instead.
We had great luck lifting a -6A to slide the scales underneath.
Hooked an engine hoist to the engine lift point, put a padded saw horse
under the tail and used the saw horse to lever the aircraft into the
air with the hoist.
Worked great, and nothing blocked our positioning the scales.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F687/F606 Attachment |
Mike,
You are correct, but you are in luck....the 687 only catches 3 of the 4
rivets!
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 9:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: F687/F606 Attachment
>
> Hi folks,
>
> I have to admit to being a little unhappy this evening - I am a bit
> flummoxed over how to attach the 687 rib to the 606 bulkhead.
> There are some hits in the archives, but they do not address my
> problem, Frank J. is vague (unbelievable!), Frank V. doesn't mention
> it, and, well, here's the problem:
>
> When I line up the 687 on the centerline the front flange sits right
> where I placed that nice line of flush (forward) rivets which hold the
> 606 bulkhead together.
>
> I've re-read the manual and notes on the bulkhead assembly and there is
> no mention of allowing for this development. I can only surmise that I
> am to drill out the rivets and back-drill through the 606 into the 687
> flange, then rivet the whole thing together.
>
> Am I missing something? This had to happen - progress was going so
> well!
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Fuselage
>
>
> Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F687/F606 Attachment |
> I don't recall what I did there... fuselage construction is already
> ancient history! Hell, I can't even remember what the F687 rib is!
>
> Perhaps you could email me something to put into the Guide describing
> how you solved the problem?
>
> Frank van der Hulst.
> Keeper of the Bunnys Guide to RV Building
Hi Frank,
Everyone's pretty much said the same thing - drill out the 606 rivets
and back-drill through the 687 (that is the rib along the top of the
fuselage upon which the slider's slide rail sits, and runs from the 606
to the 607 bulkheads - attaches to the 607 via small angle).
I can't imagine another way around it - which is why I figured I _had_
to be doing something stupid. Guess not. (I once thought I was wrong,
but later learned that I was mistaken about that)
:)
Thanks to all - will head out to do some drilling before work.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ray sheffield" <1052a(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Middlesboro fly-in |
Hi Jim,
I may fly my rv-6a to Middlesboro, Sun, is there breakfast or anything going
on?
ray sheffield
112rs
1052a(at)prodigy.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2000 6:37 AM
Subject: RV-List: Middlesboro fly-in
>
> Gangsters and RV-listers
>
> There is to be a EAA fly-in at Middlesboro,KY (1A6) on Sept. 30 -
> October 1. Rob Herklotz, our AYA Southern Region coordinator, has
> confirmed these dates for us. I understand it's usually a pretty good
> event and centers around the P-38 restoration project that came from
> the Greenland ice cap. I've heard they've had some pretty nice
> warbirds at the event, in the past. I've never been to the event due
> to conflicts or weather; but, I'm planning on being there this time.
>
> Gangsters, I know this is the "New Orleans" weekend for you
> southern region AYA members; but, perhaps some the our more local
> Grumman drivers will find this event easier to get to. I think Rob is
> going to be there because he doesn't live far from Middlesboro and
> couldn't make it to New Orleans.
>
> BTW, the nice thing about the P-38 project is that you can get close
> and personal with it. The restorers encougage people like us to
> enjoy our visits to the project and do allow some touchy-feely of the
> aircraft. That's a bit unusual, to me. What's even more unusual is
> the fact that the restorers stop their work to talk with us. They want
> us to know all about the project and are very proud of what they're
> doing. I must admit it's quite a project and was an inspiration to me
> as I was building my RV-6A. Oh, yeah. One of the guys is a RV nut,
> too.
>
> I hope you guys show up in your Grummans, Yankees, and RV's. I'm
> sure planning to be there on Saturday, weather permitting.
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Back Riveting |
Greg,
A friend of mine back riveted his wings and fuselage wherever possible, and
they look great! I plan to do the same. Avery (and probably others) sells
a back-riveting set that is offset so ribs don't get in the way.
Jim Bower
>From: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, "Greg Tanner"
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Back Riveting
>Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 16:29:40 -0700
>
>
>Is there a quality problem with back riveting as many rivets as are
>accessible? Does back riveting provide an equal (or better)amount of
>clamping force as face riveting?
>
>Greg Tanner
>RV-9A Empennage
>SER #90186 N80BR (APPLIED FOR)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Nguyen" <TNGUYEN(at)oss.oceaneering.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Weight and Balance-JACKING AIRCRAFT |
>>>>>>
Or you could not _jack_ it up - and lift it instead.
We had great luck lifting a -6A to slide the scales underneath.
Hooked an engine hoist to the engine lift point, put a padded saw horse
under the tail and used the saw horse to lever the aircraft into the
air with the hoist.
Worked great, and nothing blocked our positioning the scales.
<<<<<<<<<<
I would not recommend to use the engine lift point to lift up the aircraft. This
engine lift point is for lifting the engine only.
T.Nguyen
RV-6A
N747TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Weight and Balance-JACKING AIRCRAFT |
>
> Or you could not _jack_ it up - and lift it instead.
> We had great luck lifting a -6A to slide the scales underneath.
> Hooked an engine hoist to the engine lift point, put a padded saw horse
> under the tail and used the saw horse to lever the aircraft into the
> air with the hoist.
> Worked great, and nothing blocked our positioning the scales.
>
food for thought. The engine lift point is for the engine alone. I have
heard horror stories (none confermed) about the hook ripping out from
the engine case when lifting plane in this manner.
--
Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado
RV-6A N99PZ Flying
Engine: Aerosport Power O-360-A1A
Prop: Sensenich 72FM8S9-1-83
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Back Riveting |
>
> Greg,
>
> A friend of mine back riveted his wings and fuselage wherever
> possible, and
> they look great! I plan to do the same. Avery (and probably others)
> sells
> a back-riveting set that is offset so ribs don't get in the way.
>
> Jim Bower
> >
> >Is there a quality problem with back riveting as many rivets as are
> >accessible? Does back riveting provide an equal (or better)amount of
> >clamping force as face riveting?
> >
> >Greg Tanner
A caution I learned from back riveting my fuselage with my wife. Make
sure the "bucker" with the back rivet set (Avery's
mushroom-with-a-handle in our case) is pretty strong. As she got tired
she reduced her pressure on the set, and the gun caused the skins to
separate as it set the rivet.
The rivets would look great when we started out - 30 minutes later they
were pooching and looked like hell. Couldn't figure it out at first
but then tumbled to the cause.
We finished it up using standard gun and bucking bar.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: F687/F606 Attachment |
Mike Thompson wrote:
>
>
> > I don't recall what I did there... fuselage construction is already
> > ancient history! Hell, I can't even remember what the F687 rib is!
> >
> > Perhaps you could email me something to put into the Guide describing
> > how you solved the problem?
> >
> > Frank van der Hulst.
> > Keeper of the Bunnys Guide to RV Building
>
> Hi Frank,
>
> Everyone's pretty much said the same thing - drill out the 606 rivets
> and back-drill through the 687 (that is the rib along the top of the
> fuselage upon which the slider's slide rail sits, and runs from the 606
> to the 607 bulkheads - attaches to the 607 via small angle).
> I can't imagine another way around it - which is why I figured I _had_
> to be doing something stupid. Guess not. (I once thought I was wrong,
> but later learned that I was mistaken about that)
> :)
>
> Thanks to all - will head out to do some drilling before work.
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Fuselage
I took a different approach to the initial fuse assembly which
inadvertently avoided the issue of having to drill out the rivets. It
seemed to me that it would be easier to fabricate as much of the cabin
bulkhead assembly on the bench as possible before setting everything
into the jig. Turns out most of the structure around the cabin can be
"pre-assembled" on the workbench, then transferred to the jig for final
assembly. You can see what I am talking about here:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/fuse2.html
It was during this phase that it was apparent the 687 rib would share
some rivets and having to drill out rivets later was unnecessary. I
found the assembly of this section on the bench to be easier than
working around the jig and encourage builders who are approaching this
phase of construction to consider this option.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dual batteries |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> I have experiance with marine electrical systems. Their are some very
>light, vapor sealed rotary battery switches. They would need to be modified
>for aviation use. But they are very reliable and are capable of high current
>loads. For two battery systems, the rotary switch is labeled left, right,
>both.
It's very easy and in fact recommended that multiple batteries
each have their own contactor for connection to the system. Furhter,
there are connections to each battery that do not go through the
contactor for running components of an electrically dependent
engine. I.e., your electrically dependent engine should operate
whether or not the DC master switch(es) are ON or OFF . . .
>> It's not an issue of electrical demand its the reliability and redundancy
>> that concerns me. I have the Stratus Subaru engine and I'm getting the
>> dual ignition but obviously don't have mags. So the second battery
would be
>> primarily backup power for the ignition, but potentially you could use two
>> batteries of the same size and provide complete redundancy. Of course on
>> the other hand adding that reduncy could also increase the complexity and
>> reduce the reliability of the system. I'm just interested if there is some
>> experience out there with some real simple redundant electrical systems.
This topic has been discussed at length on the lists, in our book,
in articles downloadable from our website and illustrated in numerous
wiring diagrams downloadable from the website. Two-battery installations
are no big deal . . .
>The concern you have for flying with your soob electrical system is
>legitimate. If auto systems are going to be used in aircraft, then you must
>build in redundant systems to match typical aircraft systems.
I'll suggest the LAST thing we want to do is match "typical" aircraft
systems . . . the architecture, components and pilot's understanding
of those systems have not changed in 50 years.
>If a battery fails in most aircraft, the engine will continue to run,
>In your auto set up if the battery fails so does your engine. A
>two battery system duplicates the two magneto system pretty close
>as far as redundantcy is concerned. Batteries can and do fail with
>out warning.
Batteries do NOT fail without warning. It's just that most of us
don't pay any attention to what the battery is trying to tell us.
We replace tires when the tread is gone, overhaul cylinders when
the compression gets low, file nicks out of propellers when noticed,
etc . . . . but we beat a battery until it fails to crank the engine
. . . and replace it after we've propped the airplane for the third
time.
Very rudimentary preventative maintenance techiques will insure
that nobody reading these words will EVER experience battery failure.
>To reduce the weight penalty two smaller bateries can be used,
>but they must be sized with absolute precision.
Don't know about "precision" but some consideration must be given
to what a battery's task is. Batteries have three duties: (1) crank
the engine, (2) stabilize alternator(s) and (3) provide power for
essential goodies should alternator output be lost. The BEST
hedge against alternator failure is two alternators . . . dump
the sucky vacuum pump and install a second alternator. THEN the
batteries on board no longer have to be sized for standby power.
Total system weight can be much reduced.
>This topic is outside my area of knowledge, so educate me. I have an HDS
>with Stratus Soob. I have a small motorcycle battery (14AH) which has
>cranked me up without hesitation for 18 months and 98 hours of flight
>time. If my alternator light comes on and my instruments haven't indicated a
>problem, I think I can turn off my master and fly a long time on battery.
I'd encourage this builder to replace THINKING with KNOWING how long
his airplane will stay aloft battery only. Your battery should be
no smaller than your fuel tank. If you do not KNOW that the battery
capacity on board will allow you to use up fuel on board, then I'll
suggest further investigation, personal education and perhaps
some changes to your system are indicated . .
> something is wrong with the battery, shouldn't there be early indications.
> For thirty-one bucks I can get a new one. I have dual ignition but never
> thought I needed dual batteries. What are the odds of loosing all
> electrical if you are maintaining your airplane and monitoring your
> instruments? My empty weight is 602 and I like that.
There's no pat answer to this . . . a number of options exist for
insuring your flight system reliability. My personal goal for
system reliability is, "From the time I break ground to the time
I land, I don't want to break a sweat." This doesn't have to mean
nothing ever fails. It means that I have to architecture a system
for failure tolerance and educate myself in its operation and
maintenance to sustain that level of reliability. Dual batteries
and indeed dual alternators can often make for a LIGHTER airplane.
>1. Flight over hostile territory (I fly in the Pacific Northwest w/o a lot
>of "emergency landing fields").
>2. Alternator craps out.
This happens a LOT on certified aircraft . . . just check the
service difficulty reports at faa.gov . . . the REASON alternators
crap a lot is because the overwhelming majority of the TC
fleet are fitted with crappy alternators . . . holy-watered and
configuration managed right into antiquity. TC alternators fail
routinely in obscene ways every month . . . through bolts broke,
cases cracked, bearings seized, windings burned . . . you name
it . . . it happens. By LAW, that alternator will be returned to
ORIGINAL configuration and bolted back on some poor pilot's airplane.
B&C and similar alternators (Nipon-Dienso) have DEMONSTRATED
operational reliability suggesting that most will run the lifetime
of engine with nothing more than a belt change. B&C's return rate
in thousands of sales over the past 10 years has been under 1% for
the total fleet!
>3. The above fact is discovered by the voltage dropping alarmingly low on
>the voltmeter.
Why not some form of ACTIVE notification of alternator failure?
Most pilots don't look at the voltmeter until the panel starts to
go black or the radios begin to mis-behave . . . with no ACTIVE
notification, one tootles along with everything operating and
lights blazing thus squandering a limited energy resource. By the
time you know anything is wrong, your options are all gone.
>4. Shedding the electrical load still leaves too little juice to power
>things like radio, fuel pump, and CD player.
See articles on website and chapter in book on system reliability.
>Hence, I installed a second 17 ah battery with a switch on the panel that
>kicks in the second battery and provides extra time to make a safe landing
>with needed equipment.
Dual 17 a.h. batteries is 34 pounds total. Add to this about 8-10 pounds
of vacuum system for 44 pounds. Now consider taking out two batteries,
one vacuum system and putting one 4 to 7 pound alternator and one
10 pound battery for a weight REDUCTION of 27 pounds and a net
increase in flight system reliability unequaled in ANY certified
aircraft.
>5 years ago I was on a 300 mile cross country in a Cessna 150. 30 miles from
>my destination the voltage regulator apparently failed wide open. Sparks
and
>smoke started spewing our of the instrument panel as my first indication.
In
>the short time I took to turn everything off, it was too late, basically
>everthing that was "on" failed including the electric clock. I was also
>amazed that in that short time, the battery was completely discharged. Once
>the smoke cleared and I calmed down. I continued to my destination with a
>completely inoperative electrical system and made a normal no flap landing.
>With one battery and an electronic ignition system, I would have had a dead
>engine as well.
Forgive me, I am in no way trying to demean this writer's experience
but this is typical of the "dark and stormy night" stories that
drive our design, maintenance and operating decisions on homebuilts.
I'll suggest that TC aircraft can be used only as examples of
how NOT to architecture, maintain and operate an electrical system. I've
often written that my personal mind-set climbing into a rental TC
ship is that I don't care if ANY of that stuff is working 5 minutes
after take-off. I intend to get where I need to go without breaking
a sweat. That means UNDERSTANDING the limitations of a machine designed
mechanics and procedures . . . and outfitting myself to deal with the
worst. $30 worth of parts and a weekend's effort could elevate the
average TC aircraft into 21st century . . . but it ain't gonna happen.
This is why we need to look past our experience with TC ships to
design and operate our airplanes.
Virtually EVERY concern voiced above can be addressed with simple
choices in architecture and knowledge of how the system and its
components operate. Education and decisions based on understanding
will make it so . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | F687/F606 Attachment |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Mike:
I am doing a tip-up, but I fitted the 687, 688, & the 606 together with
clecos & later when the top skin came along I backdrilled the pattern to
the skin.
Don Jordan -- 6A finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
writes:
>
> Hi folks,
>
> I have to admit to being a little unhappy this evening - I am a bit
> flummoxed over how to attach the 687 rib to the 606 bulkhead.
> There are some hits in the archives, but they do not address my
> problem, Frank J. is vague (unbelievable!), Frank V. doesn't mention
> it, and, well, here's the problem:
>
> When I line up the 687 on the centerline the front flange sits right
> where I placed that nice line of flush (forward) rivets which hold
> the
> 606 bulkhead together.
>
> I've re-read the manual and notes on the bulkhead assembly and there
> is
> no mention of allowing for this development. I can only surmise
> that I
> am to drill out the rivets and back-drill through the 606 into the
> 687
> flange, then rivet the whole thing together.
>
> Am I missing something? This had to happen - progress was going so
> well!
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Fuselage
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Weight and Balance-JACKING AIRCRAFT |
> > Or you could not _jack_ it up - and lift it instead.
> > We had great luck lifting a -6A to slide the scales underneath.
> > Hooked an engine hoist to the engine lift point, put a padded saw
> horse
> > under the tail and used the saw horse to lever the aircraft into
> the
> > air with the hoist.
> > Worked great, and nothing blocked our positioning the scales.
> >
>
> food for thought. The engine lift point is for the engine alone. I
> have
> heard horror stories (none confermed) about the hook ripping out from
> the engine case when lifting plane in this manner.
>
> --
> Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado
I am reminded by a local RVer who also helped that we used the engine
mount rather than the engine case to lift the aircraft. Sorry for the
mis-information.
Memory - the second thing to go...
- Mike
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <rv6aflyr(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6A Cowling Hinges |
Mike, et. al.,
I used 9 each of the large 4000 series camlocks spaced about 5" apart across
the rear of the top type S cowling. Because of the edge distance
requiements for these, I had to cut into the foam core and re-glas the area
for the camloc receptacle tabs to nest. This has weakened that area and now
I see some distortion taking place around the center camlocs from the
pressure of the cooling plenum pushing up on the cowl. There is also a
little puckering of the cowl between the camlocs. The use of a closed
cooling plenum system would probably alleviate this, but I would still not
use the large camlocs again and cut into the cowl foam core. If you don't
want to use the hinge method in this area, I would suggest using more of the
2700 series camlocs, or screws, spaced closer together.
I wanted to keep the molded in overlap on the horizontal sides, so I am
using #8 trusshead screws there right now, spaced about 4" apart, and that
has worked out fine. I do plan to change those to countersunk type screws,
or 2700 series camlocs, before I get the plane painted. The use of comlocs
in this area would require that most of them be completely removed to
facilitate the installation and removal of the top cowl due to it's rigidity
and close fit, so I probably will not use these here.
On the vertical sides and across the bottom of the lower cowl, I'm using the
kit supplied 1/8" aluminum hinge, per plans. This works well except for the
two innermost eyes on each side near the scoop, which have broken three
times in 30 hrs. I just recently installed stainless steel hinge segments
on the cowl portion in that area and will see how they hold up. The ones on
the firewall side may now break, so I may have to install plates and screws
there, which is a common thing to do on the -6 and -6A.
Les/RV-6A N24LW/Tacoma WA
>Anyone have any experience using camlocks with the S-Cowl for RV6A instead
of
>hinges? If so please let me know how many were used, where used and
whether
>it worked out as alternative.
>Thanks for the help.
>Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Go-Ped wheel as tailwheel |
Listers,
A while back I raised the idea that a Go-Ped wheel might be used as a
tailwheel since it looked approximately the right size, and since there is a
plethora of really nice light billet versions available. Well, I took the
wheel off my Go-Ped recently and here is the result... the axle is exactly
the same diameter as the Van's unit, and the width is exactly the same. The
only problem is that the diameter of the wheel/tire is larger and it won't
fit due to interference with the tailwheel bracket. Now it *would* be
possible to reduce the size of the solid rubber tire to fit nicely. You'd
then have a light, strong, really trick looking tailwheel with a solid
rubber tire than cannot blow-out like the Andair has been known to do.
Again, aftermarket Go-Ped wheels can be found at
www.enginetrix.com/goped-customparts.htm. If someone can figure out how to
get one of these into a lathe or something, or maybe chuck it up in a drill
press, then shave the tire leaving a nice finish we'd be off and running.
Anyone had any experience shaving/finishing hard rubber tires?
I have a pic of the standard tailwheel next to the Go-Ped unit that I will
post to my web site in a few days when i get back in town if you're curious
what these things look like.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, sanding, filling, sanding, priming, sanding, filling, sanding,
sanding, sanding...
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>I use the Garmin GPS III pilot on the dash of a Kitfox lite and it works
>great. My antenna is left on the GPS. The altitude feature is very helpful
>as I can watch rate of climb/decent. Do the cheap GPS's have altitude? I
>think this is a feature of the number of satellites they pick up.
I wrote an article for Sport Aviation about three years
ago that you can download at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/nailgun.pdf
The radios have changed but the basic facts have not. I've
not turned on a VOR receiver in 3 years. I fly dual GPS with
a total investment of about $200. I give these things away
at my weekend seminars. Given the signup rate for the Santa
Rosa program next weekend, I'll probably give away two of them.
There's no better return on investment than a low-end
Magellan hand held GPS receiver. The AOPA airport directly
makes entry of a new airport location about a 2 minute
trivial task. Since selective access was turned off, my
GPS300 gives altitude in 1 foot increments.
WARNING! Altitud displays can lag considerably behind
true altitude . . . it's harder to calculate and can be
off by several hundred feed after a rapid/large change.
Give it a few minutes to settle down and/or make altitude
changes more sedately and you'll find the readings track
your altimeter very closely.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | All Electric : Battery size/Duel alternators |
I am building an all electric panel using a B&C 40 amp alternator with the 8
amp PM alternator as a backup. Since I have two sources of electrical
energy, I am considering downsizing the battery to meet one purpose....start
the engine...an O-360 with constant speed prop. I know most folks are going
with 17ah batteries. Will a smaller one give me adequate cranking capacity?
Assume pre-heat in winter and normal starting temps above 40 degrees.
Weight differences:
5 amp 4.25 lb 1.17 amps/lb
7.2 amp 5.45 lbs 1.32 amps/lb
10 amp 7.85 lbs 1.27 amps/lb
12 amp 8.41 lbs 1.42 amps/lb
17 amp 14.3 lbs 1.18 amps/lb
Looking at the technical specs from Hawker
http://www.hepi.com/products/genesis/genprod.htm
and Panasonic
http://www.panasonic.com/industrial_oem/battery/battery_oem/chem/seal/seal.h
tm
I see things like "Nominal short circuit current" and discharge
characteristic curves but nothing to give me "cranking amps" or whatever
term the advertisements use.
Ross Mickey
6-A
Eugene, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Vinyl in QB Gas Tank |
A local builder reported that he discovered vinyl covering still adhered to
the inside of his 6A QB wing tank (one of two). He sent it back to Van's
for repair. I offer this as a head's up to other QB builders as this is
potentially dangerous. As always, I suggest you contact Van's for details
if you have concerns.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 0.0 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | vortex generators |
"Builder's Bookstore"
I just ordered a set of vortex generators for my 6A from Micro Aerodynamics. I
did this based on an RV-4 pilots recent flight report of a 10 mph reduction in
stall speed, a nice stall buffet warning about 3 mph before stall, and a
noticeable decrease in takeoff roll. And another great benefit; ...it may keep
the lookie-loos from sitting on my wings at fly-ins. (or at least they will only
sit on them once)
I'm looking forward to trying these things. Anything I can do to make lift at
our high altitudes has got to be worthy.
I'll keep you posted
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://buildersbooks.com
eCharts
http://eCharts.cc
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Back Riveting |
09/26/2000 03:52:22 PM
I used a piece of stainless about the size of a pack of cigarettes, a
little thicker........anyway, this hand-held piece of metal was used by my
wife and myself to back rivet just about every rivet we could. Very
professional finish and less chance of hurting the metal with a lazy or
mis-directed rivet gun blow. If & when I did mess up the "ouch" was on the
inside or tail part of the rivet....another reason I like back riveting. I
sanded the metal round on the edges to fit the hand better.....basically
just dressed the block of steel on my sanding belt.
rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com@matronics.com on 09/26/2000 08:41:55 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to
rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Back Riveting
Greg,
A friend of mine back riveted his wings and fuselage wherever possible, and
they look great! I plan to do the same. Avery (and probably others) sells
a back-riveting set that is offset so ribs don't get in the way.
Jim Bower
>From: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, "Greg Tanner"
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Back Riveting
>Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 16:29:40 -0700
>
>
>Is there a quality problem with back riveting as many rivets as are
>accessible? Does back riveting provide an equal (or better)amount of
>clamping force as face riveting?
>
>Greg Tanner
>RV-9A Empennage
>SER #90186 N80BR (APPLIED FOR)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re:rv6a rudder cables hang up on 602 bulkhead |
> >
> >Has anyone had the rudder cable cleave hang up on the 602 bulkhead?
> And
> what
> >did you do about it.
I am preventing this problem using a six-foot length of plastic stay
cover obtained at a local sailboat shop. For $1.75 I got six feet of
3/8 hard plastic tubing with a slit cut along the side. Got one for
each side.
I was a thumb-numbing process getting this stuff on the rudder cables,
but once on, and pulled up firm on the rudder-pedal attachment, the
sheath goes back into the baggage side covers. I measured it to be
just aft of the F-605s when the rudder pedal was fully forward, then
cut it. When the rudder pedal comes fully aft, the plastic still
doesn't hit the F606 grommet. The cable is bare behind F606.
Since the whole sheath moves with the rudder cable, there is no
junction to hang up in F602.
Smoooooth!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
| Subject: | All Electric on a Budget Questions |
Bob,
I am going to use the architecture you outlined in your ""All Electric on a
Budget" article which also is illustrated as Z-8 in your book.
A few questions:
1) Why do you run the SD-8 alternator through the battery bus? I see the
logic in running the 12 gauge wire from the shunt of the SD-8 to the battery
contactor as this gives you the ability to power items on the main bus with
the SD-8 if the battery contactor is closed but why put another set of
connections (the battery bus) in between the battery contactor and the
essential bus switch?
2) Does the e-bus switch have to be somehow more "heavy duty" since it
will be caring all the current?
3) I see you use a SPDT relay to bring the SD-8 on line. If we hooked
the e-bus directly to the battery contactor with 12awg, would we need to use
a SPDT relay here?
4) Why would you need a loadmeter and shunt for the SD-8 since you would
only be using it in emergencies?
Now for a different set of questions based on assuming I would want to have
the SD-8 on line all the time, not just in emergencies. The reasons for
this would be two-fold....since I am caring the weight and the alternator is
generating 8-10 volts anyway, why not use it? And secondly, maybe I can
make due with a total of 48-50 amps by using both the SD-8 and a 40 amp main
alternator.
1) Since the SD-8 would be on line all the time, would I want to keep the
loadmeter and shunt for the SD-8 to be able to monitor its health?
2) I would run three pathways to the e-bus.
a) One a direct link from the SD-8 shunt using 12 awg and a 16
awg fusible link. (Normal operation: Bringing the SD-8 on line powers the
e-bus)
b) One from the main bus as is illustrated in Figure Z-8 for
normal operations except I would replace the diode with a switch. (SD-8
fails but main alternator is still good and powers both the main and e-bus.
Downside...I may have to shed some goodies off the main bus)
b) One off of the battery bus through a fuse or directly from
the battery contactor. (Both alternators fail and I run the e-bus off the
battery)
Ross Mickey
6-A
Eugene, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
| Subject: | All Electric on a Budget Questions |
Bob,
I am going to use the architecture you outlined in your ""All Electric on a
Budget" article which also is illustrated as Z-8 in your book.
A few questions:
1) Why do you run the SD-8 alternator through the battery bus? I see the
logic in running the 12 gauge wire from the shunt of the SD-8 to the battery
contactor as this gives you the ability to power items on the main bus with
the SD-8 if the battery contactor is closed but why put another set of
connections (the battery bus) in between the battery contactor and the
essential bus switch?
2) Does the e-bus switch have to be somehow more "heavy duty" since it
will be caring all the current?
3) I see you use a SPDT relay to bring the SD-8 on line. If we hooked
the e-bus directly to the battery contactor with 12awg, would we need to use
a SPDT relay here?
4) Why would you need a loadmeter and shunt for the SD-8 since you would
only be using it in emergencies?
Now for a different set of questions based on assuming I would want to have
the SD-8 on line all the time, not just in emergencies. The reasons for
this would be two-fold....since I am caring the weight and the alternator is
generating 8-10 volts anyway, why not use it? And secondly, maybe I can
make due with a total of 48-50 amps by using both the SD-8 and a 40 amp main
alternator.
1) Since the SD-8 would be on line all the time, would I want to keep the
loadmeter and shunt for the SD-8 to be able to monitor its health?
2) I would run three pathways to the e-bus.
a) One a direct link from the SD-8 shunt using 12 awg and a 16
awg fusible link. (Normal operation: Bringing the SD-8 on line powers the
e-bus)
b) One from the main bus as is illustrated in Figure Z-8 for
normal operations except I would replace the diode with a switch. (SD-8
fails but main alternator is still good and powers both the main and e-bus.
Downside...I may have to shed some goodies off the main bus)
b) One off of the battery bus through a fuse or directly from
the battery contactor. (Both alternators fail and I run the e-bus off the
battery)
Ross Mickey
6-A
Eugene, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> |
"'Mike Thompson'"@matronics.com
| Subject: | Re:rv6a rudder cables hang up on 602 bulkhead |
I am not completely sure I know what you are talking about, but I use heat
shrink tubing to dress up the cable connections. slips over the cable then
you shrink it down tight. looks real nice.
Larry Hawkins RV4 fuse FArmington,NM
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Thompson [mailto:grobdriver(at)yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 2:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:rv6a rudder cables hang up on 602 bulkhead
> >
> >Has anyone had the rudder cable cleave hang up on the 602 bulkhead?
> And
> what
> >did you do about it.
I am preventing this problem using a six-foot length of plastic stay
cover obtained at a local sailboat shop. For $1.75 I got six feet of
3/8 hard plastic tubing with a slit cut along the side. Got one for
each side.
I was a thumb-numbing process getting this stuff on the rudder cables,
but once on, and pulled up firm on the rudder-pedal attachment, the
sheath goes back into the baggage side covers. I measured it to be
just aft of the F-605s when the rudder pedal was fully forward, then
cut it. When the rudder pedal comes fully aft, the plastic still
doesn't hit the F606 grommet. The cable is bare behind F606.
Since the whole sheath moves with the rudder cable, there is no
junction to hang up in F602.
Smoooooth!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Weight and Balance-JACKING AIRCRAFT |
Charlie and Tupper England
Gary Zilik wrote:
>
>
> >
> > Or you could not _jack_ it up - and lift it instead.
snip> >
>
> food for thought. The engine lift point is for the engine alone. I have
> heard horror stories (none confermed) about the hook ripping out from
> the engine case when lifting plane in this manner.
>
> --
> Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado
> RV-6A N99PZ Flying
> Engine: Aerosport Power O-360-A1A
> Prop: Sensenich 72FM8S9-1-83
If the top cowl is coming off anyway, a sling (nylon tow strap) on the
motor mount tubes at the firewall would work fine. Just don't try to
shorten the vertical distance too much.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vortex generators |
"Builder's Bookstore"
OK; Since I've gotten 6 private requests in the last 1/2 hour, here it is for the
whole list.
The Company who makes VGs is called Micro-Aerodynamics. Their phone number is 360
293 8082. Speak to Annie Brogan or Charlie White.
Below is the report I got from the guy who tried them on his RV-4. His was the
first
set for RVs made by Micro-Aero. Mine will be the 2nd.
Andy
RV-4 FLIGHT TEST 15 September 2000
RV-4 N91EM
Pilot: Richard S. Drury
The purpose of these flight tests was to determine the effects of installing the
Micro Aerodynamics vortex generators (VGs) on a standard RV-4 aircraft. The airplane
has a fixed-pitch Hendrickson wood climb prop and a 160HP Lycoming 0-320 D1A engine.
It was flown with full fuel, pilot weight of 170 pounds and a parachute weight
of
about 30 pounds. It is estimated that the airplane was flying at about 200 pounds
below
maximum gross weight.
The initial flight was flown from Friday Harbor Airport, Friday Harbor, Washington
on the morning of 15 September 2000. Wind for takeoff was 170/08, temperature of
16C
with an altimeter setting of 30.05 HG.
An altitude of 3,000 feet MSL was selected for the stall series to be flown. The
Van's Aircraft data states the following: Stalls come with relatively little warning
other than the obviously high angle of attack and low speed. However, the break
is
gentle and control can be regained immediately by relaxing stick back pressure,
with
an altitude loss of only 25 to 50 feet. With immediate application of power,
altitude loss can be held to an almost immeasurable figure. There is little tendency
for
either wing to drop in a stall unless provoked by a skid or slip. Other data in
the
Van's brochure points out a stall speed at gross weight of 54 MPH and 48 MPH at
solo
weight of some 1,160 pounds.
Initial stalls were performed at idle power, clean configuration, with a one knot
per second airspeed rate decrease. The angle of attack was relatively high. The
stall break had little warning except for the angle of attack and control feel.
The
break itself was mild as the nose fell accompanied by a very slight right wing
drop.
I attribute the wing drop to a rigging problem which makes this particular airplane
slightly right wing heavy as a matter of course. Indicated airspeeds at the break
were a high of 56 MPH to a low of 54 MPH - showing the Van's Aircraft data to be
accurate
and the airplane was flying within some 200 pounds of gross weight. The airspeed
indicator is of the general aviation type so these indications
are as best as I could determine with most careful reading.
Altitude loss was in the 50 foot range with no power added at the stall break.
With
power added, altitude loss was negligiable. Full flap idle, landing configuration
stalls were next. The same high angle of attack was reached and the same sensations
were apparent at the break, a generally straight-ahead break preceded by little
warning. Indicated speeds were in the 53MPH range. Apparently these flaps cause
more
drag than low speed advantages.
A landing was made at the Roche Harbor, Washington airstrip where the VGs were
installed. This process was straightforward and uncomplicated. We used the Micro
Aerodynamics suggested placement at 8% MAC. The VGs were temporarily installed
with
a double-sided sticky tape which worked well using the supplied templates for
placement.
The next tests were done overhead the Roche Harbor Airport also at 3,000 feet MSL.
It was noted, subjectively only at this point, that the takeoff roll was shorter
and
control response was crisper than before. Initial stalls were once again in the
clean configuration, idle power, one knot per second airspeed decrease rate. At
approximately 47 MPH there was considerable buffet followed by a break at 44 MPH
IAS. The break was definite and straight ahead. Six more stalls validated this
speed
and buffet phenomenon. Flaps full down, idle power showed an indicated airspeed
of
43 MPH.
A series of steep turns and rolls was performed to get a feel for any changes to
control response. It was felt that roll rate was increased somewhat and turn
performance was superior to the un-VGd wing.
Thus far, it can be said that the stall speed for this RV-4 has dropped
significantly and stall warning is unmistakeable. Although the normal RV-4 has
rather benign stall characterists at the onset, this added warning and slower speed
can only add to the flight safety envelope.
Preliminary tests also indicate no change in cruise speeds at any range of normal
power settings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: vortex generators |
Wow, I wonder what vortex generators would do to a -9A where the stall speeds
are already in the low 40's......
probably could just stop in mid air cartoon style.
I think Ill try them on mine someday
Kevin
-9A waiting for fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "skybolt-aviator" <skybolt-aviator(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vortex generators |
"skybolt-aviator"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 6:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: vortex generators
HI---Please do keep us posted.
Ollie&Lorene Washburn
RV6-A,N795LW,@FD77.
O-360,180HP,C/S,300+hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SALNED71(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re:CONSTANT SPEED PROP |
When mounting a Hartzell cs prop to the lyc. O360A1A, what is the correct
position
relative to to engine bolt holes(clock).
Thanks in advance !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ed Kowalski ...# 80127 ...RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: vortex generators |
>
>OK; Since I've gotten 6 private requests in the last 1/2 hour, here
>it is for the
>whole list.
>
>
>The Company who makes VGs is called Micro-Aerodynamics. Their phone
>number is 360
>293 8082. Speak to Annie Brogan or Charlie White.
>
>Below is the report I got from the guy who tried them on his RV-4.
>His was the first
>set for RVs made by Micro-Aero. Mine will be the 2nd.
>
>Andy
>
>
>RV-4 FLIGHT TEST 15 September 2000
>RV-4 N91EM
>Pilot: Richard S. Drury
>
<-- whole bunch of good stuff snipped out-->
>Altitude loss was in the 50 foot range with no power added at the
>stall break. With
>power added, altitude loss was negligiable. Full flap idle, landing
>configuration
>stalls were next. The same high angle of attack was reached and the
>same sensations
>were apparent at the break, a generally straight-ahead break
>preceded by little
>warning. Indicated speeds were in the 53MPH range. Apparently these
>flaps cause more
>
>drag than low speed advantages.
>
One comment - if the aircraft has the aft fuselage static source,
flap extension probably changes the airflow around the aft fuselage.
This could change the static source position error, making the
airspeed error very different flaps down than it is flaps up. IAS at
the stall almost universally is way off the CAS anyway, so indicated
stall speeds are almost meaningless in terms of quantifying the
actual stall speed. Changes in indicated stall speed are usually
significant (i.e. if the IAS at the stall decreases, the CAS has
probably decreased too), but the change in CAS is probably less than
the change in IAS (i.e. the 10 mph reduction in IAS at the stall with
the VGs probably equates to less than a 10 mph change in CAS). I
have even seen one aircraft where the indicated airspeed on the
production instruments would stagnate during a decel to the stall,
and then start increasing before the stall. Pretty spooky until you
got used to it. The flight test airspeed indicator (nose boom and
trailing cone static source) showed a 1 kt/sec decel the whole time.
The behavior of the IAS during a stall was not acceptable, and they
had to fudge the air data computer to fix it.
Bottom line - changes in stall speed are a bitch to measure
accurately. These VGs still sound worth looking at though.
I'm toying with the idea of rigging a trailing bomb static source to
get a good look at my stall speeds once I get flying.
<-- more stuff snipped-->
>performance was superior to the un-VGd wing.
>
>Thus far, it can be said that the stall speed for this RV-4 has dropped
>significantly and stall warning is unmistakeable. Although the normal RV-4 has
>rather benign stall characterists at the onset, this added warning
>and slower speed
>can only add to the flight safety envelope.
>
>Preliminary tests also indicate no change in cruise speeds at any
>range of normal
>power settings
>
These VGs sound promising, particularly if there really is negligible
impact on cruise speed. Keep us posted.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.nbci.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re:CONSTANT SPEED PROP |
Ed,
Take a look at the engine's prop flange and the hub on the prop itself. You
will notice two of the bolt hole lugs on the engine's prop flange that are
shorter than the rest. They line up with the two flat areas around the
bolts on the prop hub. The rest of the bolts have a recessed area around
each bolt. One of the "short" lugs on the engine prop flange is slightly
bigger in diameter than the other so your flywheel/ring gear will only go on
one way. That is so you can get the timing marks correctly lined up. I
hope i got that clear???
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
>From: SALNED71(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, SALNED71(at)AOL.COM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re:CONSTANT SPEED PROP
>Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 21:08:30 EDT
>
>
>When mounting a Hartzell cs prop to the lyc. O360A1A, what is the correct
>position
>relative to to engine bolt holes(clock).
>
> Thanks in advance !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> Ed Kowalski ...# 80127 ...RV-8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
Hi Guys,
I need 3 ea of a part number 74084W intake tube for a
Lycoming 0320. Would prefer used.
(P/N 74085 for a 0360 will also work I am told with some trimming)
Thanks...
Larry Olson
Cave Creek, AZ
RV6 - Firewall Fwd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
| Subject: | WigWag Data Sheets via Acrobat available now |
Hi List,
The WigWag Solid State, WWSS, leading edge lights control module can be
ordered now.
Available for download is an Acrobat 2 page data sheet describing the
features and benefits of the WWSS. In addition, this data sheet includes
the information that is needed to design this WigWag safety function into a
proposed panel.
The system was spec'ed to be very easy to design-in the WWSS and to wire-up
the WWSS for many different lighting functions using one or more switch
types and switch combinations. As a result, the WWSS can be easily
retro-fit into an existing panel using the existing switch(s). When
retro-fitting the WWSS, some builders may be able to replace the existing
switches with new switches and/or new functions to not only add the safety
function of WigWaging but to reduce the number of switches in the panel
thus freeing up a switch position for another function that they have
wanted to add to their panel.
To access this data sheet go to the bottom of the page at
http://www.easystreet.com/~bhaan/
or
http://www.easystreet.com/~bhaan/wigwag.pdf
We will post pictures of the WWSS to this site in a few days.
Regarding the price, when we documented and totaled the costs for all the
parts, we discovered that a very redundant, bullet proof, robust design
where, if it was better to do it with 2 or more additional components, we
designed in the extra components, results in a cost and price that is
higher than first estimated by many of us. However, for only 2 of the many
advantages; 1. increased safety by being recognized sooner and from a
greater distance and 2. ease of installation and wiring, we think the $90
dollars is a very good value.
Orders can be placed now by sending a check for $95, $90 plus $5 shipping
and handling, to
Bob Haan
14270 SW Koven Court
Tigard, OR 97224
503-579-3675
If your shipping cost is substantially more than $5, we will bill you for
it when we ship.
Bob
Bob Haan
http://easystreet.com/~bhaan/
bhaan(at)easystreet.com
Portland, OR
RV6A 24461 Wiring the panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AV8TURDON(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: vortex generators |
Upon Making an approach and landing who cares what the Calibrated airspeed
is. You only read indicated. And if you used to stall at 55 and now at 45
then I would say that's all we need to know. Were not going to the Moon here.
This is a basic airplane not an F-22 or the like so lets keep the parameters
the in the same arena. There's always someone out there trying to show how
smart they are and impress the rest with information that means nothing to
this class of aircraft. I plan to install them if the numbers prove to hold
up after this person tries the sytem. Besides seat of the pants flying will
never be out. This airplane does tell you when it needs more speed.
A rebutal is yours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: vortex generators |
any thing avaiable for a rv-3
butch
rv3 161bt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vortex generators |
To Mr. Turdon (or whatever your name is), I've got to jump in here. You are
completely off base with this response to Kevin Horton's message on stall
speeds. Perhaps you are not aware that Kevin has provided an abundance of
useful information to this list including spreadsheets for determining true
airspeed, static error, etc. which have tremendous relevance to the
construction and flight testing of an RV. Contrary to your description of
him, he is not the kind of person who would want to impress anybody and I
believe he is motivated solely be a desire to help out his fellow RV
builders. I can't imagine what possessed you to make such a rude and cruel
comment about a person who has done so much to help out on this list.
And I believe you must accurately quantify the benefits, if any, of these
vortex generators. By the way, Kevin is a test pilot on the Global Express
corporate jet.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hrs. TT
O-320, Hartzell C/S
RV-6, Fuselage
pat_hatch(at)msn.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <AV8TURDON(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 10:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: vortex generators
>
> Upon Making an approach and landing who cares what the Calibrated airspeed
> is. You only read indicated. And if you used to stall at 55 and now at 45
> then I would say that's all we need to know. Were not going to the Moon
here.
> This is a basic airplane not an F-22 or the like so lets keep the
parameters
> the in the same arena. There's always someone out there trying to show how
> smart they are and impress the rest with information that means nothing to
> this class of aircraft. I plan to install them if the numbers prove to
hold
> up after this person tries the sytem. Besides seat of the pants flying
will
> never be out. This airplane does tell you when it needs more speed.
>
> A rebutal is yours.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: All Electric : Battery size/Duel alternators |
Ross;
I'm going all electric also with dual B&C alternators and will be using an
Odyssey (Hawker) PC625. It's a 17ah battery that weighs 13.3 lbs and cost
$100. The salesman said it's almost identical to the PC680 that Van's sells
for $160 but is a little lighter with slightly less reserve capacity. Got
it from Batteries Plus in Oregon. I'm not flying yet so can't give you any
performance history.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 canopy skirts and stuff
Seattle area
----- Original Message -----
From: Ross Mickey <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 10:13 AM
Subject: RV-List: All Electric : Battery size/Duel alternators
>
> I am building an all electric panel using a B&C 40 amp alternator with the
8
> amp PM alternator as a backup. Since I have two sources of electrical
> energy, I am considering downsizing the battery to meet one
purpose....start
> the engine...an O-360 with constant speed prop. I know most folks are
going
> with 17ah batteries. Will a smaller one give me adequate cranking
capacity?
> Assume pre-heat in winter and normal starting temps above 40 degrees.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Time in RV6 with CFI at OSWEGO FORUM |
Dave,
Do you have Mike's schedule for Friday? I am scheduled twice on Friday,
but I can't remember the times.
>
>FEW OPENINGS left FOR MIKE SEAGER
>Training in RV at KFZY
>To reply e-mail John directly to address:
>
>John.Balbierer(at)nysyra.ang.af.mil
>
> Openings left for
>Sunday, 1 October: 0800, 0930, 1300.
>1st come 1st serve.................
>
>6th Annual Northeast RV Forum
>September 30 - October 1, 2000
>Oswego County Airport Fulton NY
>KFZY
>
>Just a reminder on the RV-List inviting people to the RV-Forum and Fly-in.
>
>Link our web site:
>http://www.web-flight.com/486/eaarvforum.htm
><http://www.web-flight.com/486/eaarvforum.htm>
>
>Please pre-registered so our hand outs and food counts are more accurate.
>
>As in the past got lots of things planned.
>
>Hope to see you there
>Respectfully
>David McManmon
>
>
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo
(570)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | OSWEGO NY RV FORUM and FLY-IN |
DON"T FORGET
See you there......
6th Annual Northeast RV Forum
September 30 - October 1, 2000
Oswego County Airport Fulton NY
KFZY
Just a Quick note on the RV-List inviting people to the RV-Forum and
Fly-in.
Link our web site:
http://www.web-flight.com/486/eaarvforum.htm
<http://www.web-flight.com/486/eaarvforum.htm>
Please just c'mon and show up now!!!!
As in the past got lots of things planned.
Hope to see you there
Respectfully
David McManmon
Date: Fri, 08 Sep 2000 09:28:58 EDT
From: RV6160hp(at)aol.com
Subject:OSWEGO NY RV FORUM and FLY-IN
6th Annual Northeast RV Forum
September 30 - October 1, 2000
Oswego County Airport Fulton NY
KFZY
Just a Quick note on the RV-List inviting people to the RV-Forum and
Fly-in.
Link our web site:
http://www.web-flight.com/486/eaarvforum.htm
<http://www.web-flight.com/486/eaarvforum.htm>
Please pre-registered so our hand outs and food counts are more accurate.
As in the past got lots of things planned.
Hope to see you there
Respectfully
David McManmon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Intake tubes |
>I need 3 ea of a part number 74084W intake tube for a
>Lycoming 0320. Would prefer used.
sounds like you're getting closer. You might try Mattituck if you don't
find used ones. I've gotten my parts from them cheaper than other
places.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Glover" <wirraway(at)bravo.net.au> |
| Subject: | Jon Johanson - Update |
G'Day to all,
Jon is in Mauritius. They have finally agreed to
his request for a landing
clearance for a "technical stop" at Rodrigues.
This means Jon can fly from
Mauritius, via Rodrigues to Cocos Island without
having to go north to the
Maldives. This is very good news.
Jon is hoping to leave Mauritius later today 0800
UTC 27th or tomorrow 28th
at the same time. This depends on forecast winds
and other technical
matters.
I will keep the list informed of
progress..........Jon is hoping to arrive in
Adelaide, South Australia, his official starting
point on Monday 2nd October.
Cheers and take care,
Ken Glover Hunter Valley Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Intake tubes |
Jim Sears wrote:
>
>
> >I need 3 ea of a part number 74084W intake tube for a
> >Lycoming 0320. Would prefer used.
>
> sounds like you're getting closer. You might try Mattituck if you don't
> find used ones. I've gotten my parts from them cheaper than other
> places.
>
> Jim
>
Another good place to try for used ones is Wentworth.
JSpringer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: vortex generators |
Is someone developing the gear leg MOD to take advance of the higher angle of
attack to land at 45 mph?
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: vortex generators |
In a message dated 9/26/00 11:31:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com writes:
> I can't imagine what possessed you to make such a rude and cruel
> comment about a person who has done so much to help out on this list.
>
I agree with Pat, Kevin has always bent over backwards to be accomodating to
help me with questions and I hope that these type words will not be used on
this list for folks who are making an effort to be helpful.
Bernie Kerr, 6A 50 hours and holding for painting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: All Electric on a Budget Questions |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>Bob,
>
>I am going to use the architecture you outlined in your ""All Electric on a
>Budget" article which also is illustrated as Z-8 in your book.
>A few questions:
>
>1) Why do you run the SD-8 alternator through the battery bus? I see the
>logic in running the 12 gauge wire from the shunt of the SD-8 to the battery
>contactor as this gives you the ability to power items on the main bus with
>the SD-8 if the battery contactor is closed but why put another set of
>connections (the battery bus) in between the battery contactor and the
>essential bus switch?
The SD-8 is a limited output device and the goal was to maximize
its utility in case the main alternator quits. If we're down to
the SD-8 as the engine driven power source, then I don't want
to waste 1/8th of it's output holding a battery contactor closed.
Driving the battery bus direct does not prevent the battery contactor
from being closed at will to power up anything on the main bus . . .
in fact, once the airport is in sight and comfortable arrival is
assured, one may squander what ever energy remains in the battery
and show all lights, lower gear electrically, etc. by bringing the
main bus up.
The architecture shown is intended to MAKE SURE that you get to
the airport of intended destination.
>2) Does the e-bus switch have to be somehow more "heavy duty" since it
>will be caring all the current?
All of what current? The e-bus continuous loads during alternator
out ops should certainly be no more than the SD-8's output of 8A.
An ordinary toggle sw is quite capable of handling this.
>3) I see you use a SPDT relay to bring the SD-8 on line. If we hooked
>the e-bus directly to the battery contactor with 12awg, would we need to use
>a SPDT relay here?
The relay does two things . . . it gives you control of an 8A
power path without having to bring it into the cockpit . . . it
also makes it possible to use the OVM-14 crowbar ov module
to protect the system in case of SD-8 regulator failure.
>4) Why would you need a loadmeter and shunt for the SD-8 since you would
>only be using it in emergencies?
All electrical instrumentation other than active notification of
low volts and a voltmeter on the e-bus are relatively optional.
In some cases, the e-bus may have a full-up load of greater than
8 amps in normal ops and the loadmeter would be useful for educated
load-shedding during times that the SD-8 is doing all the engine
driven power generation.
>
>Now for a different set of questions based on assuming I would want to have
>the SD-8 on line all the time, not just in emergencies. The reasons for
>this would be two-fold....since I am caring the weight and the alternator is
>generating 8-10 volts anyway, why not use it? And secondly, maybe I can
>make due with a total of 48-50 amps by using both the SD-8 and a 40 amp main
>alternator.
No, the main alternator should be a minimum of 130% of total
max continuous loads for the airplane. The SD-8 runs only
when the big guy is compromised.
>1) Since the SD-8 would be on line all the time, would I want to keep the
>loadmeter and shunt for the SD-8 to be able to monitor its health?
>2) I would run three pathways to the e-bus.
> a) One a direct link from the SD-8 shunt using 12 awg and a 16
>awg fusible link. (Normal operation: Bringing the SD-8 on line powers the
>e-bus)
> b) One from the main bus as is illustrated in Figure Z-8 for
>normal operations except I would replace the diode with a switch. (SD-8
>fails but main alternator is still good and powers both the main and e-bus.
>Downside...I may have to shed some goodies off the main bus)
> b) One off of the battery bus through a fuse or directly from
>the battery contactor. (Both alternators fail and I run the e-bus off the
>battery)
Ross, you're certainly free to wire and operate your
airplane in any manner you wish. I would only caution that
the diagrams we publish are based on a lot of failure modes
effects analysis and a goal to maximize performance and
dependability while reducing system complexity, weight,
cost and installation time. My recommendation is that
you utilize figure Z-8 as published.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | hurd <hurd(at)boernenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vortex generators |
Builder's Bookstore wrote:
> I'll keep you posted
>
I will be interested to hear if the stall speed reduction will translate into a
practicable landing attitude. I was looking seriously at VG's about a year ago
(prior to RV4 testing) and was advised by a couple of RV veterans that the higher
nose-up attitude would put the tail too low if touching down at stall.
Unless I missed it, the test report posted here did not mention landing speed with
VG's installed. I hope your experience reveals a slower, but-workable, landing
speed because I would really like to put VG's on my plane.
Jim
RV6A 223JH (tailskid already installed) San Antonio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Sheehan <ctsheehan(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vortex generators |
I usually don't get involved in flame wars, but I too will throw my hat
in the ring in support of Kevin. He repeatedly does a great job of
helping us non-professional pilots understand much of the tech stuff, in
terms that we can understand.
>
> Upon Making an approach and landing who cares what the Calibrated
airspeed
> is. You only read indicated.
Mr. AV8TURDON if you were to review the difference between IAS and CAS
(which clearly you've forgotten) Kevin's comments might make sense to
you.
Or perhaps you'd be interested in my special offer airspeed indicator
conversion kit which guarantees a 15% increase in IAS - it is a 'KTS'
face for your 'MPH' indicator. Since you argue that position error is
irrelevant and by extension instrument error probably is too, you can
then quote a 15% increase in cruise. Can't guarantee you'll get to your
destination any faster though ;-). Only problem is that your stall speed
will be back to about where is was without the vortex generators...
Chris
RV-6 Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | re: Battery size/Dual alternators |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>I am building an all electric panel using a B&C 40 amp alternator with the 8
>amp PM alternator as a backup. Since I have two sources of electrical
>energy, I am considering downsizing the battery to meet one purpose....start
>the engine...an O-360 with constant speed prop. I know most folks are going
>with 17ah batteries. Will a smaller one give me adequate cranking capacity?
>Assume pre-heat in winter and normal starting temps above 40 degrees.
>
>Weight differences:
>
> 5 amp 4.25 lb 1.17 amps/lb
> 7.2 amp 5.45 lbs 1.32 amps/lb
> 10 amp 7.85 lbs 1.27 amps/lb
> 12 amp 8.41 lbs 1.42 amps/lb
> 17 amp 14.3 lbs 1.18 amps/lb
>
With two alternators, the battery no longe needs to be sized
for alternator out endurance. There are batteries out there
as light as 3# that will crank an engine. As you have noticed,
a lead acid battery has a capacity on the order of 1 a.h.
per pound. A 3# battery would be about 3 a.h.
Cranking limitations are based on the battery's internal
resistance -AND- being able to attach leadwires to the
battery that are appropriate for the 200 amps or so needed
for cranking. At the present time, I'm aware of only one
really light battery with terminals applicable to the task:
B&C has a 10 a.h. battery that would work. It's kind of
pricey tho . . . my recommendation is a 17-20 a.h. battery
in the package offered by a half dozen manufacturers. Panasonic
has a 20 a.h. rated battery in the same case as their original
17 a.h. device and for the same weight.
This battery is probably bigger than you need but it's inexpensive,
readily available from lots of manufacturers and is a reasonable
compromise between: (1) maximizing performance/weight at greater expense
and (2) the classic 24-35 a.h. batteries carried by most single engine
TC aircraft.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Parsons" <dap(at)DParsons.com> |
| Subject: | vortex generators |
Maybe this will of interest to the group. I noticed several aircraft at
AirVenture 2000 that MVGs installed. When I went t o the NASA tent, they had
a give away sheet that talked about them. The URL below is the content of
that same document.
http://oea.larc.nasa.gov/PAIS/Micro-VG.html
The same article is available in PDF format.
http://oea.larc.nasa.gov/PAIS/pdf/FS-2000-06-52-LaRC.pdf
Don Parsons
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Builder's
Bookstore
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 1:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: vortex generators
I just ordered a set of vortex generators for my 6A from Micro Aerodynamics.
I
did this based on an RV-4 pilots recent flight report of a 10 mph reduction
in
stall speed, a nice stall buffet warning about 3 mph before stall, and a
noticeable decrease in takeoff roll. And another great benefit; ...it may
keep
the lookie-loos from sitting on my wings at fly-ins. (or at least they will
only
sit on them once)
I'm looking forward to trying these things. Anything I can do to make lift
at
our high altitudes has got to be worthy.
I'll keep you posted
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://buildersbooks.com
eCharts
http://eCharts.cc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Vinyl in QB Gas Tank |
In a message dated 9/26/00 1:01:16 PM Central Daylight Time,
dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<<
A local builder reported that he discovered vinyl covering still adhered to
the inside of his 6A QB wing tank (one of two). He sent it back to Van's
for repair. I offer this as a head's up to other QB builders as this is
potentially dangerous. >>
The heads up to all builders....Van's reported that non-QB builders have also
done it.
________________________________________________________________________________
"'Jerry Springer'"@matronics.com
"Jones, Bryan D." <bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
September 21, 2000 - September 27, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ji