RV-Archive.digest.vol-jm
October 16, 2000 - October 24, 2000
> me hope to succeed?
>
> My plan at the moment is to order some aluminum sheet in various thicknesses,
> some angle stock, and a riveting kit and try my hand at what seems to be the
> most used skill in these projects.
>
> MY QUESTION FOR THE DAY ....
>
> What tool kit, from which company would you suggest for my "practice run" on
> mangling metal? What should be the minimum tools I need to experiment while
> I still have time to back out?
>
> Great Gratitude is expressed here for the RV Digest. I feel like I've
> learned a lot even before I start. I appreciate you guys, and hope you will
> be patient with what I'm sure will be a ton of questions from this neophyte.
>
> John McDonnell
> Currently putting around in a Grumman AA1A N9210L
> Hoping to soar in an RV
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: Last Chance to stop me |
JTAnon(at)AOL.COM wrote:
> I will shortly order an RV6A QB kit. My experience is nil (never so much as
> drove a rivet), but my work ethic and patience are high. Can a guy such as
> me hope to succeed?
Yes! I hope so! Because, starting from about where you are, I'm well
along the way to success.
> My plan at the moment is to order some aluminum sheet in various thicknesses,
> some angle stock, and a riveting kit and try my hand at what seems to be the
> most used skill in these projects.
Also practice drilling out rivets. If you know you can get rid of a bad
rivet without doing further damage, it lowers the stress level of
driving rivets. Which in turn means you probably won't screw up driving
them.
> What tool kit, from which company would you suggest for my "practice run" on
> mangling metal? What should be the minimum tools I need to experiment while
> I still have time to back out?
Get Avery Tools RV Starter Kit. http://www.averytools.com Plus some
dimple squeezers. If you're rich, a hand rivet squeezer, if you're
really rich a pneumatic squeezer, if you're short of cash, just
vice-grip dimplers. You'll probably end up buying the hand (or
pneumatic) and vicegrip dimplers some time anyway.
Also, go to http://fly.to/bunnysguide -- you'll find lots of information
there about how to build your RV.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: New engine choice |
"Mills, Trevor R" wrote:
>
>
> For those of us who have been waiting for something in the way of choice in
> engines for our little rockets, I was told this weekend that Jabiru are
> going to produce a 8 cylinder model of there Australian made engines.
> This will be a 180 HP @ 2700 RPM
> I have been in contact with the factory this morning and they did confirm
> this however don't think we would see any for around a year (read two maybe)
> He did say he would e-mail me details when they have them, but did say it
> would be around 100 kgs or 220lbs.
> If this engine is as good and runs as smooth as there 6 cylinder version I
> will have to have one.
> If there is any interest I will keep the list informed.
Yes please. Also please post to the Engines-List.
Any idea what type of engine mount this will fit onto? Or how much it
will cost?
I suspect though that an 8-cylinder engine is probably going to be too
long to fit into an RV-6.
Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: Last Chance to stop me |
>
>I fell in love with the RV6A at Oshkosh in '97. Since then my dream is to
>build and own the best kit plane on the market.
>
>I've been lurking the list for a year, researching other sites, studying the
>pre purchase plans, and convincing my wife. Now I'm ready to start. This is
>the last chance to talk me out of building.
>
>I will shortly order an RV6A QB kit. My experience is nil (never so much as
>drove a rivet), but my work ethic and patience are high. Can a guy such as
>me hope to succeed?
>
>My plan at the moment is to order some aluminum sheet in various thicknesses,
>some angle stock, and a riveting kit and try my hand at what seems to be the
>most used skill in these projects.
>
>MY QUESTION FOR THE DAY ....
>
>What tool kit, from which company would you suggest for my "practice run" on
>mangling metal? What should be the minimum tools I need to experiment while
>I still have time to back out?
>
>Great Gratitude is expressed here for the RV Digest. I feel like I've
>learned a lot even before I start. I appreciate you guys, and hope you will
>be patient with what I'm sure will be a ton of questions from this neophyte.
>
>John McDonnell
>Currently putting around in a Grumman AA1A N9210L
>Hoping to soar in an RV
Most RV builders have never drove a rivet before they started, so you
are in good company. You won't have any difficulty. You might want
to visit a local builder and have him show you how to do the various
skills. He might even have enough scrap for you to practice on.
Tells us where you live - there is probably a builder closer than you think.
As far as tool kits go - buy good quality - Avery, Cleaveland or Brown.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: Last Chance to stop me |
What took you so long? If there is an EAA chapter arround, Join and you will
be be well rewarded with new friends and expertise when you find your newly
aquired tallents just a bit lacking. You will Love building, Try and do
something every day. 160 hrs and still grinning, N468TC, Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "<Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com> |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Mon,
16 Oct 2000 07:57:47.-0400(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Crash/Rudder Pedal Failure |
16 Oct 2000 07:57:47.-0400(at)matronics.com
Is the rudder pedal SB referring to the little gussets that are welded from the
verticle bars to the crossmembers? If so my fuse kit is two years old and has
them already installed. Just as a point of reference for others.
Eric Henson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: Last Chance to stop me |
> I will shortly order an RV6A QB kit. My experience is nil (never so much
as
> drove a rivet), but my work ethic and patience are high. Can a guy such
as
> me hope to succeed?
> MY QUESTION FOR THE DAY ....
>
> What tool kit, ]
I'm building an 8A QB and had nil experience prior to this (nor am I
mechanically inclined). If you are unsure, borrow tools for your
"exposure". If you are sure, and I'm convinced anyone can build a Van's
kit--particularly the QB versions--buy GOOD tools. A great Sioux palm drill
is overkill, but it is light weight, easy to maneuver. A great squeezer is
Avery's. A great air gun is Tatco. I did not go with a "kit" . . . I
picked and chose what I felt I wanted. My tools represented about 3 grand
(includes air compressor, odds and ends), but I'm glad I made this
investment. Good luck. You'll find building one of these to be
tremendously fun and rewarding.
Rick Jory, Highlands Ranch, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Crash/Rudder Pedal Failure |
In a message dated 10/16/00 8:06:35 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
rv-list(at)matronics.com writes:
> Is the rudder pedal SB referring to the little gussets that are welded from
> the
> verticle bars to the crossmembers? If so my fuse kit is two years old and
> has
> them already installed. Just as a point of reference for others.
Eric,
Yes it does and you are in good shape.
Bernie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Copperstate report |
Hey Brian,
Sorry I missed you at Double Eagle. I got stranded up on the Sandia plateau
Wednesday evening by heavy rains.
Glen David and I made it to Mesa all the way from Indianapolis. Story and
pictures to follow on http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/vaf.htm in a week or
so. I made it home Saturday evening in the dark. 3000 miles in four days.
Phoenix, Sedona, Grand Canyon, Payson, etc. Whew.
And man, do I love this airplane.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (Don't remember how many hours now, I put on over 25 hours in the past
four days!)
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2000 9:04 PM
Subject: RV-List: Copperstate report
>
> Howdy listers,
>
> I just returned from Copperstate. Great fun! Perfect weather..couldn't ask
> for better. Lots of RV's in all shapes, sizes and degrees of finish.
Great
> folks from the list were met, to attach faces to the names previously only
> seen on my monitor. Nine of us got stranded by a hotel shuttle that never
> showed up Saturday morning. So, my wife, being the resourceful gal that
she
> is, called up National to come pick us up to get a car. Driver shows up
in
> a SUBURBAN. hehe....all aboard! Driver was easily pursuaded by ready cash
> at hand by a bunch of homebuilders who needed a serious airplane fix!
Nice
> ride that Suburban.
>
> RV's took home some awards, Grand Champion was a Lancair with more gadgets
> and doohickies stuffed in the panel than I can identify...and a FIVE blade
> MT prop. Good grief man, my wallet was bleeding just from the site of it.
> Beautiful airplane...truly. The builder deserves that award in a big way.
>
> Flew out there with the guys from Front Range in Colorado. Purely by
> chance. They stopped off at AEG for fuel while Deb and I were loading up
my
> -8. Stu, Dennis and Kent....all terrific guys with loads of humor and
great
> to fly with. So, instead of heading out solo, we voted (OK, RAILROADED is
> more like it) Kent as lead in his awesome -8 built by Lyle Hefel. Good
job
> Kent...smooth lead.....easy to fly with and grooved us into Gateway with
> ease. A flight of four other RV's came in after us...making for a taxiway
> that looked like the LA expressway at rush hour! Guys, you haven't lived
> until you taxi in to a show of this size, with HUNDREDS (thousands?) of
> airplane fanatics snapping pics of you as you taxi along to park.
>
> For those still building...do NOT stop...get it done! You WILL love your
> airplane.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> 142 hrs.
>
> was that SCOTT MCDANIELS I heard singing the National Anthem??? ;)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Allan Tolle trashes his Venture (Non-building info DNA) |
For you folks new to RV'ing, Allan was one of the most prolific Beta testers
of Van's kits up thru the 8.
_________________________________
Venture Driver OK After Plane is Destroyed
Alan Tolle, 66, had a "landing he could walk away from," and insisted to
reporters on the scene that the crash was "no big deal."
The Fresno (CA) Bee quotes him as saying, "All I got was this nick at the
end of my finger," on his right hand. His wife was, the paper said, more
upset than Alan appeared to be, and suggested he haul the wreck, instead of
back to the house, off to the junkyard. For the WHOLE story,
www.aero-news.net
Bernie Kerr, 6A 50 hours, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DDFLAMINI(at)AOL.COM |
Dennis, i checked my 0-360 with std sump and the factory 4 qt mark is 18 5/8"
below cap gasket surface with a homemade mark at 18 3/8". The plastic housing
is11 5/8" from top to deck at sump, Dennis RV-10 race # 53 Chicago.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen D. Metzger" <smetzger(at)ma.ultranet.com> |
| Subject: | H frame wire and plumb bobs |
"Stephen D. Metzger"
If you go to your local hobby store, pick up some 1/2-A control line cable.
This is the stuff they use for the smaller control-line models. It is very
strong
and very,very thin. Even still, some small amount of sag is unavoidable.
-Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jerry Calvert
Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2000 10:30 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: H frame wire and plumb bobs
I used a very small diameter braided wire that is used mostly for hanging
pictures. I think about 15 or 20 feet of it was coiled up in a plastic bag
at Home Depot. It will stretch as tight as a string.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: barrys <barrys(at)viconet.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2000 7:00 AM
Subject: RV-List: H frame wire and plumb bobs
>
> > Matronics Email List Administrator
> > -- dralle(at)matronics.com
> > --
> > --
> >
> >
> > >
> > > What are you fellows using for for the wire that goes across the H
frame
> > > top? I have a brass (heavy) plumb bob from Home Depot. I have a turn
> > > buckle and 2 long threaded eye bolts. I am using a coil of steel wire
> > > that is used for hanging suspended ceiling, also bought at HD. No
> > > matter what I do. the wire sags about 3/16 of an inch when the bob is
at
> > > the center of the run. I started with all the mechanical stuff
> > > 'stretched' and the wire tight. Then I crank don the eye bolts and
the
> > > turn buckle, to no avail. Is the wire stretching?
> > >
> > > Should I use a lighter bob?
> > >
> > > Barry
> > > rv9a starting on the tail. wings already here!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >-------------------
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | Carburator - Thanks |
Thanks to those who responded to my request for a Carburator. Mr. Bart
LaLonde from Aero Sport Power has been very generous with his time and
advice and has come to my rescue offering to exchange my carb. I have not
had the pleasure of meeting Mr. LaLonde but I know when it's overhaul time
who I will be calling.
While I'm at it I want to also say that through some poor communication a
helper crossed the battery terminals and fried my PC board from Control
Vision. A call to Tim to explain my problem went like this: Me; "I fried my
PC board how much to fix." Tim; "Never had anybody do that before, send it
to me and I'll repair it at no cost or I'll sell you the new model at 1/3
the normal price". Me; "Send me the new one and thanks a million."
I purchased a Electronics International fuel gauge two years ago and just
now installed it in my RV6A and found out I have the wrong sending units
already in the tanks. A call to E.I. and they said we will send you another
gauge !
My father always said "The quality of people and their products remain long
after the price is forgotten"
Best wishes,
John Furey
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-6A Nose Wheel Flat |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Will :
I have a new tube if that will get you guys back in the air. I pinched 2
of them before I got it.
I think I finally used my vise to depress the tire & 2 large c clamps to
depress the other parts of the tire before I pre torgued the wheel halfs.
writes:
>
>
> Yesterday, while taxiing the short distance from the turnup area to
> the runway for takeoff, the nose wheel suddenly became square. From
> this incident I have learned a few things...
>snipped=======
> Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
> -6A flying past 190 hours but grounded
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Pant Alignment |
ross
just did this this weekend, pop a chaulk line down the center of the aircraft
from front to back, temporary get pants on wheels, drop a plumb bob from the
rear of the pants to the floor and from the front of the pants to the floor.
measure to the chauk line. make sure all measurements are equal before
drilling to the pants. a good trick to find the holes behind the pants, is to
take a bright small light bulb and put it inside the pants. when you go to
drill the pants in place, you can see the holes through the pants.
hope this helps
scott
tampa
rv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com> |
| Subject: | Re: -8A center section woes |
5.0.3 (Intl)|21 March 2000) at 10/16/2000 10:38:31 AM
Don, yes you are correct, maybe my statement was misleading. Only the
surface which has been affected by the anodizing process is brittle, not
the metal underneath. In my case the sheet metal web on each end of the
spar center section got bent and the surface is fractured into thousands of
tiny segments. It isn't a big structural issue in this case since it does
not affect the heavy-duty main spar carrythrough pieces, it just looks bad
and could be more prone to cracking in the future?? I don't know. I
straightened it back out and will fly it as is with no qualms about it.
--Mark Navratil
RV-8A wings, fuse on order, O-360-A4A overhauling....
Don Winters (at)mailbox.collins.rockwell.com on 10/15/2000
08:16:57 PM
Sent by: root(at)mailbox.collins.rockwell.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: -8A center section woes
menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com wrote:
> [snip]
> bent up when I got it back. I can attest firsthand that the anodizing
> process makes the aluminum more brittle because the anodized surface on
> mine is covered with small cracks where it got bent.
Actually, anodizing does not make the aluminum brittle. It just puts a
very
brittle coating on the outside of the metal. That is why I have chosen to
avoid anodizing any critical areas. The stuff shatters like glass, and
leaves
raw aluminum to the atmosphere to oxidize. It looks pretty, but I'll trust
primer instead.
no flames, just my opinion :)
Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rust under powder coat |
dear listers
while mounting my gear fairings this weekend my buddy noticed rust under the
powdercoating, i've since noticed it on the engine mount, both gear legs.
while its not bad, but its only been in my hands for about 3 months, i wonder
what it will look like in another 3 or 4 months. should i sand blast back to
metal, reprime and paint, or leave it alone and move on?
scott
tampa
rv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: copperstate race |
Everybody,
Looks like one of our own, Tom McIntyre had some success during the
CopperState Dash. Looking forward to the details.
Tom Gummo
EAA Chapter 768 Pres.
----- Original Message -----
From: <ITrishMc(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2000 6:08 PM
Subject: copperstate race
> Gummo
> Metal airplanes kick butt at Copperstate. The Polen Specilal won line
honors
> while my RV3 took first to finsih in its class. I satarted last out of 4
> airplanes
> and finished ahead of them all. Details to follow.
> Tom McIntyre
> RV3 978TM
> (I'm using my sisters computer)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rust under powder coat |
| From: | "Sam Ray/Almaden/IBM" <str(at)us.ibm.com> |
10/16/2000 10:46:20 AM
I've got the same thing on my RV8 tail spring mount- yellow rust spots
showing thru, across all surfaces.
Seems like Van's needs to investigate this- either the sub isn't catching
things or Van's hasn't set a procedure
in place to remove the rust before painting!
Sam Ray
80262
>while mounting my gear fairings this weekend my buddy noticed rust under
the
>powdercoating, i've since noticed it on the engine mount, both gear legs.
>while its not bad, but its only been in my hands for about 3 months, i
wonder
>what it will look like in another 3 or 4 months. should i sand blast back
to
>metal, reprime and paint, or leave it alone and move on?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rust under powder coat |
I've noticed the same on my parts - RV8 QB. I think the rust was there
prior to powder coating.
- Bill in Tucson
-----Original Message-----
From: ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM <ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Monday, October 16, 2000 9:22 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: rust under powder coat
>
>dear listers
>while mounting my gear fairings this weekend my buddy noticed rust under
the
>powdercoating, i've since noticed it on the engine mount, both gear legs.
>while its not bad, but its only been in my hands for about 3 months, i
wonder
>what it will look like in another 3 or 4 months. should i sand blast back
to
>metal, reprime and paint, or leave it alone and move on?
>
>scott
>tampa
>rv6a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rust under powder coat |
The powder coating that was on my nose gear leg was crummy - it flaked off
with a fingernail. I had to sand it, repaint it, and it took awhile but you
really don't have a choice.
Chris Browne
-6a Atlanta
Sam Ray/Almaden/IBM wrote:
>
> I've got the same thing on my RV8 tail spring mount- yellow rust spots
> showing thru, across all surfaces.
> Seems like Van's needs to investigate this- either the sub isn't catching
> things or Van's hasn't set a procedure
> in place to remove the rust before painting!
>
> Sam Ray
> 80262
>
> >while mounting my gear fairings this weekend my buddy noticed rust under
> the
> >powdercoating, i've since noticed it on the engine mount, both gear legs.
> >while its not bad, but its only been in my hands for about 3 months, i
> wonder
> >what it will look like in another 3 or 4 months. should i sand blast back
> to
> >metal, reprime and paint, or leave it alone and move on?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rust under powder coat |
>
> dear listers
> while mounting my gear fairings this weekend my buddy noticed rust under
the
> powdercoating, i've since noticed it on the engine mount, both gear legs.
> while its not bad, but its only been in my hands for about 3 months, i
wonder
> what it will look like in another 3 or 4 months. should i sand blast back
to
> metal, reprime and paint, or leave it alone and move on?
>
> scott
> tampa
> rv6a
While inventorying my just received fuselage kit a couple of weeks ago, I
noticed rust leaking through the weld joint on a brake mount flange. The
other one looked ok, so I sent the rusted one back. Last week I got a new
one from Van's, but it also had rust coming through the powder coat, but a
little less than the first one. I could have been the same one with the
rust rubbed off. I don't know what the standard is here, but it bothers me
to know that there is rust covered by the powder coat.
Terry
RV-8A
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Copperstate report |
Brian wrote:
snip
A flight of four other RV's came in after us...making for a taxiway
that looked like the LA expressway at rush hour! Guys, you haven't lived
until you taxi in to a show of this size, with HUNDREDS (thousands?) of
airplane fanatics snapping pics of you as you taxi along to park.
For those still building...do NOT stop...get it done! You WILL love your
airplane.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
142 hrs.
Hi all,
I was in that flight just behind Brian, (btw, Brian and Debbies RV-8 is very pretty
with a teal and gold paint job) and it was pretty cool cruising by all the
folks snapping photos. Our flight had just finished flying in from the finish
line from the Copperstate Dash.
It was a fun flight out. I didn't compete in the race, but I flew out with Paul
Rosales (RV-6A) who was competing. (Paul and I have both have an O-360/Sensenich
72FM-83 prop, so it was going to be a good comparison of our speeds.) I
circled over the starting point at Apple Valley and waited until Paul took off.
I dropped down and formed up off his wing for the flight out. We were both
on the race freq. and it was great banter back and forth with the other competitors.
They couldn't understand that we were flying formation and still racing.
We flew out at about 1000 AGL for the flight to Coolage, which was the finish
point. It was OH so cool running down through the gate low, fast, and in
formation.
We landed to refuel at Coolage (I had 5 gal remaining after burning 15 gph all
the way out) and met up with some of the other competitors. 4 of us decided to
fly into Gateway together as a flight, which was fun.
The rest of the weekend was filled with standing around the RV and talking with
folks. I met a bunch of real nice people, including several listers. The Friday
RV dinner was fun as well, with everybody in the room saying a little about
their RV and what stage it was in. Tom Green and Scott McD also had some comments
about the new factory and how things really worked at Van's. (Thanks for
the insight, Scott!)
Paul and I flew back on Sunday morning. Paul had planned to fly up to Payton,
but was having some lead fouling problems and wanted to fly back home with somebody,
so we came home at 10.5K and practiced some more formation flying. (It's
tougher than it looks!) I also got the opportunely to run a tank completely
dry (on purpose) and see how the restart would go. (I got a fuel pressure warning
from my EI FP-5 fuel flow computer about 10 seconds before the engine died.)
It started back up about 2 seconds after turning the fuel valve.
Paul and I both commented how cool it was just cruising along at 180 mph in close
formation in airplanes that we built ourselves. Sweeeeet!
Anyway, I just wanted to reiterate what Brian said. Keep pounding those rivets.
Your gonna love this airplane.
Tailwinds,
Laird RV-6 N515L 120 hrs
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Almost any seat can be turned into a heater with the addition of heated seat
pad elements. Those of you with late model higher end cars know exactly what
I'm talking about.
It's a piece of cake in a seat like the ones we are using. The element is a
thin mesh of carbon fiber that can be trimmed as neccessary. The have a high
and a low setting. High might be used for start-up but low is toasty warm
for hours after. They burn 7.5 amps on high per seat (each seat has it's own
control). The whole kit weighs next to nothing.
Check out this company in Brighton Mi:
http://www.skylitesunroofs.com/
The specific link to the heated seats is:
http://www.skylitesunroofs.com/p_carbotex_seat_heaters.html
These people should have dealers all accross North America so it shouldn't
be too hard for builders to find these locally. I would be interested to
hear what prices are out there.
I wonder if the canard people have latched onto these.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Rear heat in an -8A |
I have posted a drawing and description of how I plan to get heat into the
pax area of an RV8A... Although it is specific to an -8A, it can be adapted
to an -8 if you like... http://vondane.com/rv8a/ideas/index.htm
As always, any and all comments welcome... Thanks...
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | rust under powder coat |
"Van Artsdalen, Scott"
Has anyone actually talked to Van's about this? What is the company
position? Do they even know that this is a problem? Please don't write me
back saying "How could they not know?!?" Sometimes in running a business
you don't have time to notice everything. I run a good sized computer
network but my monitors don't always tell me when something's wrong. I
still mainly rely on someone to tell me that something's wrong.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Ray/Almaden/IBM [mailto:str(at)us.ibm.com]
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 9:46 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM
Subject: Re: RV-List: rust under powder coat
I've got the same thing on my RV8 tail spring mount- yellow
rust spots
showing thru, across all surfaces.
Seems like Van's needs to investigate this- either the sub
isn't catching
things or Van's hasn't set a procedure
in place to remove the rust before painting!
Sam Ray
80262
>while mounting my gear fairings this weekend my buddy
noticed rust under
the
>powdercoating, i've since noticed it on the engine mount,
both gear legs.
>while its not bad, but its only been in my hands for about
3 months, i
wonder
>what it will look like in another 3 or 4 months. should i
sand blast back
to
>metal, reprime and paint, or leave it alone and move on?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rv6(A) pre-punched tail kit for sale or trade |
Where are you located?
Thanks
R&R
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 and RV-8A POH |
Kevin Horton has been kind enough to post a copy of my Pilot's Operating
Handbook for my RV-8A on his web site:
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks.html
Scroll down to the second from group or links and you will see an area for
the POH's. Just click on the respective link right their. When you
download the POH it will come as a zipped document and the files will appear
in alphabetical order. The way I have them organized by section is:
1) General Info
2) Limitations
3) Normal Procedures (checklists)
4) Emergency procedures
5) Engine Info
6) Weight and Balance
7) Maintenance checklist
8) Equipment Listing
9) VM 1000 supplement
The three view drawings for the general section are listed separately in
order to make each file smaller. Also the engine section has the engine
charts removed for the most part because their are so many different engine
combinations and to make the section small enough to be able to email.
Other than that it is fairly complete, I think, and ready for use. Please
take a look-see and tell me what you think....Good and Bad... I know it can
be improved but I feel that it is good enough as is for a starting point.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jlock(at)centurytel.net |
RV-6 tail and wing kit for sale. Respond off list.
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Houle" <thoule(at)kneehill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Zenith-List: Oh no he's back! |
tell her that
----- Original Message -----
From: <Terminaltown(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2000 12:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fwd: Zenith-List: Oh no he's back!
>
>
> In a message dated 10/13/00 10:24:43 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> pchapman(at)ionsys.com writes:
>
> <<
> Hi,
> I'm not trying to flame, but I would suggest fewer postings. Not every
> little upgrade to a commercial site need be announced publicly. But if
some
> topic is being discussed on the list, and you have your own opinions on
the
> matter, which are to be found on your site, then it is worth speaking up.
> Sharing a little 'expert' knowledge should hopefully draw potential
> customers, without having to directly plug a product on a list. Bob
> Nuckolls and Jim Weir are others who have expertise in their fields, and
> participate publicly in newsgroups or e-mail lists.
> >>
>
> This is a response to several E mails (some real flamers!) I have received
> with regard to my question about my many posts over the last week. I've
> removed the sender name on the above E mail. This one is one of the nicer
> ones.
>
> Hi Peter:
>
> Thanks for the mail. I don't consider this one a flame job. My apologies
if
> the posts annoyed you or anyone else. I am going to post this to the
various
> lists less your E mail address as a reply or explanation to other Flame
jobs
> I have received from my E mail I posted yesterday.
>
> Part of the logic behind the number of posts were, firstly they were
> requested by quite a few list members from the stand point of wanting to
know
> when new items that they are looking for came on line.
>
> Secondly we are a new site. We used to be AAMR/AirCore which was sold
about 3
> months ago to a person who, putting it kindly, dropped the ball. I have
taken
> the company back and am trying to get to a point where it will at least
break
> even.
>
> Lastly the items or pages that were posted have items that AAMR didn't
carry,
> but had been put on a wish list generated by our previous customers.
>
> Might I ask you if you have visited the site? There is I think there is
and
> have been told by others, something of value there in the form of a fair
> number of "How To" pages aimed at folks like yourself who may not have an
> electrical connection background and are building an aircraft
>
> The one thing I am trying to do, as is Bob N. is to provide a service that
> will help you do it the right way. Many years ago I got to experience, as
a
> passenger, first hand the seriousness of equipment failure due in part to
> shoddy work. It was horrific to say the least. I don't want to see that
> happen to anyone else.
>
> This is the end of the explanation and apology. The quantity of posts will
> slow way down now. Thanks again for writing.
>
> John @ Terminal Town
>
>
> Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 12:49:15 -0400
> To: Terminaltown(at)aol.com
> From: Peter Chapman <pchapman(at)ionsys.com>
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Oh no he's back!
>
> At 06:58 PM 12-10-2000 , you wrote:
>
> >I put up more pages today...one with bus bar predrlled stock...If my page
> >announcements are becoming a pain feel free to tell me to shut up.
>
> Hi,
> I'm not trying to flame, but I would suggest fewer postings. Not every
> little upgrade to a commercial site need be announced publicly. But if
some
> topic is being discussed on the list, and you have your own opinions on
the
> matter, which are to be found on your site, then it is worth speaking up.
> Sharing a little 'expert' knowledge should hopefully draw potential
> customers, without having to directly plug a product on a list. Bob
> Nuckolls and Jim Weir are others who have expertise in their fields, and
> participate publicly in newsgroups or e-mail lists.
>
> Take care,
>
>
> Peter Chapman
> Toronto, ON
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 antenna placement & ELT interference |
RV-4 experts:
Two topics:
1) I am about to install the VHF comm (bent whip type) and the transponder
antenna on my RV-4. The idea location is on the belly about under my knees.
The plan would be to mount the VHF antenna on the left and the transponder
antenna on the right (in those bays right under your thighs). Has anyone
had any problems with reception and transmission using these locations,
(i.e. is the ground plane adequate).
2). On a related topic, I encountered a unusual phenomenon with my flying
RV-4. We have a 50,000W antenna farm about 10 miles from my home airport.
When flying within a 6-7 miles radius, the squelch on my KY-97A goes
nuts... nothing but loud static. A friend said to disconnect the ELT
antenna and fly near the towers. No static! After querying several
avionics shops, it seems that some ELTs (in my case a Pointer model 3000)
set up some type of oscillation when near strong AM antennas and cause your
VHF comm to get crazy. The ELT antenna in this aircraft is mounted on the
top of the fuselage about midway between the canopy and the VS. The VHF
comm whip is located on the belly but right about in line with the flaps.
If it was further forward maybe there would not be a problem. Anyway I
temporarily installed an ACK ELT and there was no problem. Don't know what
the exact solution is except the ACK seems to be OK when flying near these
towers.
Doug
N722DW under construction
N464EM flying
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derrick L. Aubuchon" <n184da(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 antenna placement & ELT interference |
Small world,,,
I have the same problem except with different equipment. I have a
King, KLX135A gps/Comm which mirrors your problems exactly. My ELT is
an AmeriKing. My antennas are mounted closer together than on yours
however,, they are both on the top of the tail cone.
Like you, I have encountered the problem only when flying over very
specific locations,, and to date, they number only three but it is
still very annoying. Until I can come up with a permanent solution,
my only "fix" has been to add a length of coax, with an in-line BNC
connector that the back-seater can access for a quick disconnect.
It's interesting to hear about the ACK ELT,,, guess I'll have to find
one to borrow to see if this would work for me as well.
Anyone else have a similar problem??
>
>RV-4 experts:
>
>
>2). On a related topic, I encountered a unusual phenomenon with my flying
>RV-4. We have a 50,000W antenna farm about 10 miles from my home airport.
>When flying within a 6-7 miles radius, the squelch on my KY-97A goes
>nuts... nothing but loud static. A friend said to disconnect the ELT
>antenna and fly near the towers. No static! After querying several
>avionics shops, it seems that some ELTs (in my case a Pointer model 3000)
>set up some type of oscillation when near strong AM antennas and cause your
>VHF comm to get crazy. The ELT antenna in this aircraft is mounted on the
>top of the fuselage about midway between the canopy and the VS. The VHF
>comm whip is located on the belly but right about in line with the flaps.
>If it was further forward maybe there would not be a problem. Anyway I
>temporarily installed an ACK ELT and there was no problem. Don't know what
>the exact solution is except the ACK seems to be OK when flying near these
>towers.
>
>Doug
>
>N722DW under construction
>N464EM flying
Derrick L. Aubuchon
RV-4 N184DA
125 Hrs
n184da(at)pacbell.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 antenna placement & ELT interference |
This is NOT unusual. The tuned circuits in the ELT passively radiate the
signal back out to your comm antennas. Changing to a different brand some
times cures the problem. That is what we had to do for our SkyHawk.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com>
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 3:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 antenna placement & ELT interference
>
> RV-4 experts:
>
> Two topics:
>
> 1) I am about to install the VHF comm (bent whip type) and the
transponder
> antenna on my RV-4. The idea location is on the belly about under my
knees.
> The plan would be to mount the VHF antenna on the left and the transponder
> antenna on the right (in those bays right under your thighs). Has anyone
> had any problems with reception and transmission using these locations,
> (i.e. is the ground plane adequate).
>
> 2). On a related topic, I encountered a unusual phenomenon with my flying
> RV-4. We have a 50,000W antenna farm about 10 miles from my home airport.
> When flying within a 6-7 miles radius, the squelch on my KY-97A goes
> nuts... nothing but loud static. A friend said to disconnect the ELT
> antenna and fly near the towers. No static! After querying several
> avionics shops, it seems that some ELTs (in my case a Pointer model 3000)
> set up some type of oscillation when near strong AM antennas and cause
your
> VHF comm to get crazy. The ELT antenna in this aircraft is mounted on the
> top of the fuselage about midway between the canopy and the VS. The VHF
> comm whip is located on the belly but right about in line with the flaps.
> If it was further forward maybe there would not be a problem. Anyway I
> temporarily installed an ACK ELT and there was no problem. Don't know
what
> the exact solution is except the ACK seems to be OK when flying near these
> towers.
>
> Doug
>
> N722DW under construction
> N464EM flying
>
> ================
> Doug Weiler
> Hudson, WI
> 715-386-1239
> dougweil(at)pressenter.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 antenna placement & ELT interference |
BTW, I just spoke with an engineer at Pointer Inc and they have a fix for
this problem in their model 3000. I will send it back to them and they said
they can fix it for $25. Seems reasonable and I'll report the results.
Doug Weiler
> This is NOT unusual. The tuned circuits in the ELT passively radiate the
> signal back out to your comm antennas. Changing to a different brand some
> times cures the problem. That is what we had to do for our SkyHawk.
>
> Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Crash/Rudder Pedal Failure |
In a message dated 10/16/2000 5:06:29 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv-list(at)matronics.com writes:
<< little gussets that are welded from the
verticle bars to the crossmembers? >>
Eric
I believe that is a YES.
Jim Nice
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 antenna placement & ELT interference |
I don't remember if we went to a Pointer brand or replaced it. It is nice to
know that there is a fix.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com>
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 5:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 antenna placement & ELT interference
>
> BTW, I just spoke with an engineer at Pointer Inc and they have a fix for
> this problem in their model 3000. I will send it back to them and they
said
> they can fix it for $25. Seems reasonable and I'll report the results.
>
> Doug Weiler
>
> > This is NOT unusual. The tuned circuits in the ELT passively radiate
the
> > signal back out to your comm antennas. Changing to a different brand
some
> > times cures the problem. That is what we had to do for our SkyHawk.
> >
> > Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> |
I have just installed a new vacum pump on my O360 A1D.
Could some one tell me if I turn the screw in or out
to increase Vacum. Thanks ahead
do not archieve
Joe
RV6A 109 hrs, much fun
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Instrument wiring |
RADIO GUYS
Is there anything wrong with using slightly larger wire
when wiring radios and instruments, 18 gauge instead of 22 and so on?
Thanks in advance
TOM Benton
RV-3B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument wiring |
King reccomends using 2 # 18 s together for the
radio power. # 22 is fine for audio and such.
Stewart RV4 Colo.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Waalkes" <waalkes(at)netnitco.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: Last Chance to stop me |
I am new to building as well, never driven a rivet prior to my RV-8 which
I'm currently working on the emp. It's a ton of fun and also very
frustrating at times. I've told you'll learn it as you go and I think it's
the truth! I would suggest a lot of practice on drilling out rivets though.
If you can do that with confidence it sure takes a lot of the stress out of
riveting. Just redo it....
I purchased Avery's kit a most of the other gadgets. I guess I've invested
about $3k in tools, but I've already used all of them for different
situations. Buy good tools!
Bob Waalkes
RV-8 QB - EMP
-----Original Message-----
From: JTAnon(at)AOL.COM <JTAnon(at)AOL.COM>
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com
Date: Sunday, October 15, 2000 11:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: Last Chance to stop me
>
>I fell in love with the RV6A at Oshkosh in '97. Since then my dream is to
>build and own the best kit plane on the market.
>
>I've been lurking the list for a year, researching other sites, studying
the
>pre purchase plans, and convincing my wife. Now I'm ready to start. This
is
>the last chance to talk me out of building.
>
>I will shortly order an RV6A QB kit. My experience is nil (never so much
as
>drove a rivet), but my work ethic and patience are high. Can a guy such as
>me hope to succeed?
>
>My plan at the moment is to order some aluminum sheet in various
thicknesses,
>some angle stock, and a riveting kit and try my hand at what seems to be
the
>most used skill in these projects.
>
>MY QUESTION FOR THE DAY ....
>
>What tool kit, from which company would you suggest for my "practice run"
on
>mangling metal? What should be the minimum tools I need to experiment
while
>I still have time to back out?
>
>Great Gratitude is expressed here for the RV Digest. I feel like I've
>learned a lot even before I start. I appreciate you guys, and hope you
will
>be patient with what I'm sure will be a ton of questions from this
neophyte.
>
>John McDonnell
>Currently putting around in a Grumman AA1A N9210L
>Hoping to soar in an RV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument wiring |
TMB1564(at)AOL.COM wrote:
> Is there anything wrong with using slightly larger wire
> when wiring radios and instruments, 18 gauge instead of 22 and so on.
A lot of the pins povided for the connectors are sized for 22awg or smaller.
When you get 10-15 wires coming from you avionics, a bundle of 22awg is easier
to "bend" and route than a bundle of18 awg.
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6a, wiring still!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Copperstate report |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 11:01 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Copperstate report
>
>
> Brian wrote:
> snip
> A flight of four other RV's came in after us...making for a taxiway
> that looked like the LA expressway at rush hour! Guys, you haven't lived
> until you taxi in to a show of this size, with HUNDREDS (thousands?) of
> airplane fanatics snapping pics of you as you taxi along to park.
>
> For those still building...do NOT stop...get it done! You WILL love your
> airplane.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> 142 hrs.
>
> Hi all,
>
> I was in that flight just behind Brian, (btw, Brian and Debbies RV-8 is
very pretty with a teal and gold paint job) and it was pretty cool cruising
by all the folks snapping photos. Our flight had just finished flying in
from the finish line from the Copperstate Dash.
>
> It was a fun flight out. I didn't compete in the race, but I flew out with
Paul Rosales (RV-6A) who was competing. (Paul and I have both have an
O-360/Sensenich 72FM-83 prop, so it was going to be a good comparison of our
speeds.) I circled over the starting point at Apple Valley and waited until
Paul took off. I dropped down and formed up off his wing for the flight
out. We were both on the race freq. and it was great banter back and forth
with the other competitors. They couldn't understand that we were flying
formation and still racing. We flew out at about 1000 AGL for the flight
to Coolage, which was the finish point. It was OH so cool running down
through the gate low, fast, and in formation.
>
> We landed to refuel at Coolage (I had 5 gal remaining after burning 15 gph
all the way out) and met up with some of the other competitors. 4 of us
decided to fly into Gateway together as a flight, which was fun.
>
> The rest of the weekend was filled with standing around the RV and talking
with folks. I met a bunch of real nice people, including several listers.
The Friday RV dinner was fun as well, with everybody in the room saying a
little about their RV and what stage it was in. Tom Green and Scott McD
also had some comments about the new factory and how things really worked at
Van's. (Thanks for the insight, Scott!)
>
> Paul and I flew back on Sunday morning. Paul had planned to fly up to
Payton, but was having some lead fouling problems and wanted to fly back
home with somebody, so we came home at 10.5K and practiced some more
formation flying. (It's tougher than it looks!) I also got the opportunely
to run a tank completely dry (on purpose) and see how the restart would go.
(I got a fuel pressure warning from my EI FP-5 fuel flow computer about 10
seconds before the engine died.) It started back up about 2 seconds after
turning the fuel valve.
>
> Paul and I both commented how cool it was just cruising along at 180 mph
in close formation in airplanes that we built ourselves. Sweeeeet!
>
> Anyway, I just wanted to reiterate what Brian said. Keep pounding those
rivets. Your gonna love this airplane.
>
> Tailwinds,
>
> Laird RV-6 N515L 120 hrs
> SoCal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument wiring |
The only drawback is weight.
-----Original Message-----
From: TMB1564(at)AOL.COM <TMB1564(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Monday, October 16, 2000 5:35 PM
Subject: RV-List: Instrument wiring
>
> RADIO GUYS
> Is there anything wrong with using slightly larger wire
>when wiring radios and instruments, 18 gauge instead of 22 and so on?
> Thanks in advance
> TOM Benton
> RV-3B
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument wiring |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
> RADIO GUYS
> Is there anything wrong with using slightly larger wire
>when wiring radios and instruments, 18 gauge instead of 22 and so on?
> Thanks in advance
> TOM Benton
> RV-3B
Just that most of the avionics connectors are designed
to accept 20AWG or smaller wire . . . otherwise, no
problem.
For as little as the right size wire costs, I'd recommend
you procure some for your project, it will go together
easier and look better when you're finished.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different from )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | S-TEC System 30 ALT |
I had previously installed a NAV AID wing leveler. It follows a GPS
programmed course really well after some initial tweaking and moving the
push rod over to the pilot's stick.
I just spent the last three days installing the S-TEC altitude hold system.
I need to re-install the aft baggage bulkhead and clean up the machine
before I fly and try it out.
The material from S-TEC was first rate...installation parts for the RV fit
perfectly. Only real problem is squeezing into the rear of the plane to
install it. I still ache. As one Lister said the system if great, but you
(as he put it) pay through the nose for it.
The first application of power to any system is always interesting...will
you get the expected results or smoke? I got the former...everything
checked out as it was supposed to and if the weather holds I will report
tomorrow on how the retrofit worked.
I think that if I were going to do it all over again I would go for a
two-axis S-TEC system. After the cost of the NAV AID plus the System 30 it
comes out about the same.
Oh, well...you can't take it with you, and nobody is going to get out of
this alive!!
RV6A Flying Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Copperstate Dash |
Frank Donnelly and Tom McIntyre both flying Vans RV3's dominate
the fields at the Copperstate Dash. In the 180hp class Frank came
a very respectable 3d place with a speed of 195.57 knots behind
the Rocketship Polen Special and a very fast Berkut. Tom McIntyre
won the 160hp class with a speed of 195.99 knots ahead of a gaggle
of plastic airplanes, one of them a Glassair RG with a consatant speed
prop. Its speed over 12 knots slower.
The 180 hp class was represented with 2 georgeous RV6's, a stunning
yellow/orange RV4 and an RV6 with a chevy V6 engine. The chevy
powered RV6 sounded great but posted a slow speed of 154 knots
some 41 knots slower than Franks RV3. Aircraft Spruce put on a
professional, well organized and safe race as usual. The EAA chapter
at Apple Valley outdid themselves again in assisting with the race.
Put this on your schedule for next year. You'll have a ball.
Tom McIntyre
RV3 978TM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Storo" <ERSF2b(at)oregoncoast.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear heat in an -8A |
Bill,
Love your RV page. I have also studied the heat question. One thought that
did come to mind is that the tube going to the rear seat does not have to be
round. A rectangle would seem fitting. As I have just moved to Oregon, and
have my hands full for the time being, I will not be making anything.
Ed Storo RV-8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 11:55 AM
Subject: RV-List: Rear heat in an -8A
>
> I have posted a drawing and description of how I plan to get heat into the
> pax area of an RV8A... Although it is specific to an -8A, it can be
adapted
> to an -8 if you like... http://vondane.com/rv8a/ideas/index.htm
>
> As always, any and all comments welcome... Thanks...
>
> Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>I been pulling wire.
>
>Why do I twist the two wires from the pot to Bob"s control on the dimmer
>circuit?
In some circuits, twisting the wires helps keep out noise
that might couple between wires in the same wire bundle. In
this case, it's not necessary . . . just a convenience for keeping
the two wires identified as a pair at both ends of a wire bundle.
If you'd rather not twist them, you don't have to.
>I have a German built power supply that i use for testing each circuit..
>When the auto pilot was turned on, I showed 0.4 amps. After it spun up,
>it dropped to 0.1. When I turned the switch on the a/p on, it went back
>to 0.4 I was talking to a Glass Air friend, yes I have two friends, & he
>said that the FAA has a requirement for me to run a Load Analysis on the
>bird. Says I can't have more than 80% of my alternator. I remember that
>in the back of Bob's Text book, but can't find where that comes from.
You need some head-room for alternator loading to carry
your anticipated max continuous load and still recharge
a battery. The rule of thumb is 80% but if you've got
a 40A alternator or larger, it's a very rare bird that
doesn't have output. Furhter, it's not a RULE that you're
obligated to observe but a suggestion . . . you are under
no requirement by the FAA to do any such analysis . . .
That's a Part 23/25 requirement for the spam cans. Not that
it isn't a good idea but be wary of any other "requirements"
that might be levied upon you . . . those FARS have nothing
to do with your airplane.
>I have to interface the encoder to the transponder, I have learned that
>the old types are "grey scale" which means you have 9 wires or 10 on
>some. My new A30 uses the 9, but the scrap one I got with the transponder
>had 10. They call it D4. What is the difference?
If your transponder has a D4 pin in the harness then wire
it to D4 on the encoder. Otherwise, ignore the D4 pin
in the encoder. That's a data pin for altitudes (above
30,000 ft) that you'll not likely reach in your airplane.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different from )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Phillips" <mphill(at)fgi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: S-TEC System 30 ALT |
John,do they have a website???
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 10:16 PM
Subject: RV-List: S-TEC System 30 ALT
>
> I had previously installed a NAV AID wing leveler. It follows a GPS
> programmed course really well after some initial tweaking and moving the
> push rod over to the pilot's stick.
>
> I just spent the last three days installing the S-TEC altitude hold
system.
> I need to re-install the aft baggage bulkhead and clean up the machine
> before I fly and try it out.
>
> The material from S-TEC was first rate...installation parts for the RV fit
> perfectly. Only real problem is squeezing into the rear of the plane to
> install it. I still ache. As one Lister said the system if great, but you
> (as he put it) pay through the nose for it.
>
>
> The first application of power to any system is always interesting...will
> you get the expected results or smoke? I got the former...everything
> checked out as it was supposed to and if the weather holds I will report
> tomorrow on how the retrofit worked.
>
> I think that if I were going to do it all over again I would go for a
> two-axis S-TEC system. After the cost of the NAV AID plus the System 30 it
> comes out about the same.
>
> Oh, well...you can't take it with you, and nobody is going to get out of
> this alive!!
>
> RV6A Flying Salida, CO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bdubsrv6a(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: H frame wire and plumb bobs |
Barry,
You might try using a lighter plumb bob which can be purchased through
Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Co. It weighs in at 5 oz and costs $3.80, part
no. 47-171. Or maybe you might be able to find a cheaper on at a local
hardware store. At any rate, don't worry about it, the most important issue
is to have a perfectly vertical line from which to work. Press on!!
Bud West,
6a, doing wing spars
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rust under powder coat |
You can order your parts without powder coating. Since I have an earlier QB
kit, my steel parts were not coated, but Van's started powder coating when I
ordered my finish kit, so I ordered the engine mount uncoated, since I'm a
born skeptic and don't trust suppliers to get the parts super clean before
processing. I accepted the canopy frame with powder coating, but haven't
seen any evidence of rust.
So you newer guys may want to consider uncoated steel and prime with epoxy
primer and paint yourself. Then you know what's under the coating.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 canopy & skirt mounted to frame today, ALMOST finished
Seattle area
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mills, Trevor R" <MillsTR(at)az1.bp.com> |
| Subject: | New engine choice |
The guy I spoke to said they would supply mounts to suit RV'S, as we are the
people they are targeting, however they would not be involved in glass work
for cowls.
If the speed to develop this engine is the same as the 4 and 6 cylinders we
won't have that long to wait.(unlike the diesel we keep hearing about)
Trevor Mills 80605
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: H frame wire and plumb bobs |
On Plumb bobs..
I have a collection of these just like most RV builders, but when any
one of mine are hanging and happen to be spinning just a little (as they
do) I note that the point scribes a little circle in the air. OK, some
scribe bigger ones than others.
So how can this be...simply, each is slightly out of balance. The
string itself will hang vertically, but the point may be offset
slightly. Demonstrate this by sticking a wad of clay on the side.
So only trust the string, not the point. (Or buy quality product.)
This is probably obvious to others, but I had to learn the hard way.
Doug Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
Thanks for your response on my wiring queston. Fact is I have a ton of #18
shielded wire I was trying to use up. Just bought a Microair 720 and they
recomend 18 shielded evey where. Is this normal using shielded for audio and
such? Thanks Tom Benton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | New engine choice |
Here is a response to an e-mail I sent to Jabiru yesterday:
-Bill
Subject: 8 cyl
These are projected figers.
@3000rpm gives 200hp
@2750rpm gives 185hp
The engine will weigh 105kg (231 lb.)
The engine is still on paper at the moment. It might be 6 months it could be
longer. It is a little unknown
Regards
Jamie Cook
Product Support Supervisor
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mills, Trevor R
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 2:06 AM
Subject: RV-List: New engine choice
The guy I spoke to said they would supply mounts to suit RV'S, as we are the
people they are targeting, however they would not be involved in glass work
for cowls.
If the speed to develop this engine is the same as the 4 and 6 cylinders we
won't have that long to wait.(unlike the diesel we keep hearing about)
Trevor Mills 80605
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
> Thanks for your response on my wiring queston. Fact is I have a ton of #18
>shielded wire I was trying to use up. Just bought a Microair 720 and they
>recomend 18 shielded evey where. Is this normal using shielded for audio and
>such? Thanks Tom Benton
>
That's why I'm rewriting the installation manual for that
radio. I don't think they called out 18 . . . that would
be too big for the D-sub connector. If you want to see the
wiring diagrams that come with our radios you can download
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/760v1.pdf
and
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/760v2.pdf
We'll have a new installation manual and pre-wired
harness kit for that radio in a few day.
Bottom line is that very little single strand
shielded wire is needed (headphone circuit -
and that would be just fine with open twisted
pair). The microphone needs two to three strands
of shielded. All other wires can be single strand
no-shield.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different from )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Tip Attach Quandary |
When building my empennage I though I was pretty smart to dimple the skin
edges (tip edge) before bending the trailing edges. I used the 3/32 die
which I figured would work for screws or pop rivets. We'll, I purchased the
tip attach nuts and #4 screws from Cleaveland. They said I need to use the
#4 dimple. Ok, now how do I get in to re-dimple for the #4? Maybe I should
just stick with pop rivets. Having fun now.
Jack, Des Moines, RV8 tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
"Bob DiMeo - Oracle"
| Subject: | Re: H frame wire and plumb bobs |
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au>
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 11:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: H frame wire and plumb bobs
>
> On Plumb bobs..
FWIW (For What It's Worth) a trick on the use of a plumb line. Put the bob
end in a coffee can of water, it takes out the swing and twist in the line
and reduces guess work. We had to deal with wind changes and this trick
worked great. HRII 98.6% done. Cowl and wires. Gummibear & Kabong
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: vacum regulator |
I don't know for sure that they're all the same, but my Rapco increases
vacuum by turning Clockwise.
BTW, does anyone know why the suction would *change* from one day to
another? I can dial it in for 5" in cruise and it stays that way all day,
then the next time I fly it may be 2-3" higher or lower. This is driving me
crazy!
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A, 0320-D1a (160hp)
Sensenich 70x78, N427EM, 350+hrs.
ebundy(at)micron.net
> I have just installed a new vacum pump on my O360 A1D.
> Could some one tell me if I turn the screw in or out
> to increase Vacum. Thanks ahead
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: H frame wire and plumb bobs |
--- John Starn wrote:
> > On Plumb bobs..
> FWIW (For What It's Worth) a trick on the use of a plumb line. Put
> the bob
> end in a coffee can of water, it takes out the swing and twist in the
> line
> and reduces guess work. We had to deal with wind changes and this
> trick worked great.
This does work great - but I'll add a twist.
Use Crisco (or generic) cooking oil. Higher viscosity, better
dampening, doesn't evaporate. Cheap.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
"'Mike Thompson'"@matronics.com
| Subject: | H frame wire and plumb bobs |
Until you kick the can over !!!
Ed Cole
Maxim Integrated Products
Bldg. 120 Ext. 6605
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Thompson [SMTP:grobdriver(at)yahoo.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 8:31 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; John Starn
> Subject: Re: RV-List: H frame wire and plumb bobs
>
>
> --- John Starn wrote:
>
> > > On Plumb bobs..
> > FWIW (For What It's Worth) a trick on the use of a plumb line. Put
> > the bob
> > end in a coffee can of water, it takes out the swing and twist in the
> > line
> > and reduces guess work. We had to deal with wind changes and this
> > trick worked great.
>
> This does work great - but I'll add a twist.
> Use Crisco (or generic) cooking oil. Higher viscosity, better
> dampening, doesn't evaporate. Cheap.
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Fuselage
>
>
> Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New engine choice |
Bill,
Does Jabiru have a SWAG for the cost yet; preferably with motor mount?
Bill C., RV8A fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 6:40 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: New engine choice
>
> Here is a response to an e-mail I sent to Jabiru yesterday:
>
> -Bill
>
> Subject: 8 cyl
>
> These are projected figers.
>
> @3000rpm gives 200hp
> @2750rpm gives 185hp
>
> The engine will weigh 105kg (231 lb.)
>
> The engine is still on paper at the moment. It might be 6 months it could
be
> longer. It is a little unknown
>
> Regards
> Jamie Cook
> Product Support Supervisor
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mills, Trevor R
> Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 2:06 AM
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RV-List: New engine choice
>
>
> The guy I spoke to said they would supply mounts to suit RV'S, as we are
the
> people they are targeting, however they would not be involved in glass
work
> for cowls.
> If the speed to develop this engine is the same as the 4 and 6 cylinders
we
> won't have that long to wait.(unlike the diesel we keep hearing about)
>
> Trevor Mills 80605
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: H frame wire and plumb bobs |
Oil works even better.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net>
DiMeo - Oracle"
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: H frame wire and plumb bobs
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au>
> To: ; Bob DiMeo - Oracle
> Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 11:27 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: H frame wire and plumb bobs
>
>
> >
> > On Plumb bobs..
> FWIW (For What It's Worth) a trick on the use of a plumb line. Put the bob
> end in a coffee can of water, it takes out the swing and twist in the line
> and reduces guess work. We had to deal with wind changes and this trick
> worked great. HRII 98.6% done. Cowl and wires. Gummibear & Kabong
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | New engine choice |
I asked him about price, but he didn't have an answer. If the cost is
relative to what they added to go from the 4 cyl to the 6 cyl, it will be
around $16K to $18K. These engine use a conical type mount, but I don't
know if it is the same as for a Lyc. I think it will probably fit where a
Lyc. would fit though...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Christie [mailto:billc(at)dancris.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 10:18 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: New engine choice
Bill,
Does Jabiru have a SWAG for the cost yet; preferably with motor mount?
Bill C., RV8A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: H frame wire and plumb bobs |
Doug Gray wrote:
> On Plumb bobs..
> So only trust the string, not the point. (Or buy quality product.)
In which case, there's no need to buy an actual plumb bob... any weight
will do.
Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | S-TEC System 30 ALT Altitude Hold |
Larry Olson and Mark Phillips asked about the web address for STEC and the
cost of the System 30 ALT altitude hold system. Try www.S-TEC.com
The cost to me including the RV installation 'kit' was $3225...expensive but
worth it. Very good quality, and the materials for installing it in the RV
fit perfectly.
I flew they RV6A with it this morning. Absolutely still air. I kicked the
S-TEC on at 9,960-feet and it stayed there - absolutely rock solid. Then I
turned on the NAV AID wing leveler; trimmed for desired course and just sat
back in awe. I then flew along the mountains on the east side of the valley
to get some bumps. There were some thermals and light uplift..nothing very
rough, but enough to know something was going on. The system stayed right at
9,960...no wobbles or ups or downs.
I tried some fairly steep turns without the NAV AID and with the S-TEC
on....it kept the machine right at the same altitude.
I am really impressed.
Now back to installing the main gear pressure recovery wheel pants.
RV6A Flying Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rust under powder coat |
Scott's comment below made sense, so I sent an e-mail to Van's. Here is the
response, and the question:
----- Original Message -----
From: Van Artsdalen, Scott <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
>
> Has anyone actually talked to Van's about this? What is the company
> position? Do they even know that this is a problem?
From Van's today:
No rust is the only acceptable standard. You can sand off the
powder coat and prime it, or return it and we'll exchange it for
another if you wish.
Gus Funnell
On 16 Oct 00, at 16:47, Terry Watson wrote:
> When my fuselage kit came a couple of weeks ago, I found some rust
> coming through the powder coat on one of the U-403PC brake mount
> flanges. I returned the rusted one and you replaced it, but I see
> that the replacement also shows rust stains at the weld. Maybe this
> is not a problem, but it does concern me. Is there a standard as to
> how much rust is acceptable? Should I grind off the powder coat and
> prime it?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Terry Watson, #80729
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electric Trim |
jeff
if you ask the people who experienced electric trim more than a year ago,
they will probably tell you that it is difficult to make fine adjustments. i
talked to the people at mac who makes electric trim servos. on the older
units, you had to install a speed govenor to slow it down. on the new units,
this feature is built in. my electric elevators, aileron, flaps, all move
pretty darn slow, although i'm not flying yet to give a good report on how
twiichy it really is.
i think you will be much more satified with electric, since you don't have
that big cable assembly in the center. switching is easy on the stick grip
switch that mac sells.
hope this helps
scott
tampa
rv6a finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electric Trim |
"Jones, Bryan D." <bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
I would not go electric if I had it to do again. When planning my project,
I had an image of an all-electric plane; thinking how neat it would be to
have everything controlled by switches. In reality, I have a system very
prone to failure ("coolie hat" switch, the relays, the breaker switch, all
the connections and the servos themselves).
As for speed, the aileron control is reasonably slow, but the elevator
control is too twitchy at cruise (don't have the speed control).
My no-electric trim recommendation is based solely on reliability and the
inevitable failures becoming "just something else to fix" when you'd rather
be flying. Also, it would be hard to have a manual trim take off out of
control.
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ (~50 hrs)
Pearland, Texas
-----Original Message-----
From: ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM [mailto:ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM]
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 3:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Electric Trim
jeff
if you ask the people who experienced electric trim more than a year ago,
they will probably tell you that it is difficult to make fine adjustments. i
talked to the people at mac who makes electric trim servos. on the older
units, you had to install a speed govenor to slow it down. on the new units,
this feature is built in. my electric elevators, aileron, flaps, all move
pretty darn slow, although i'm not flying yet to give a good report on how
twiichy it really is.
i think you will be much more satified with electric, since you don't have
that big cable assembly in the center. switching is easy on the stick grip
switch that mac sells.
hope this helps
scott
tampa
rv6a finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electric Trim |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Re: Electric Trim
Thread-Index: AcA4gMkCUwLvcwBPSvmRpXVDmPbORQAAJKBA
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
I'm in the process this week of installing the speed controller for the
electric elevator trim. On my -6, the elevator trim is sensitive. It
takes quick jabs on the button to trim the plane in cruise without
over-trimming. IMHO the speed controller is required.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 53 hours
waiting on prop overhaul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
"Cole, Ed" , <"'Mike Thompson'"(at)matronics.com>
| Subject: | Re: H frame wire and plumb bobs |
----- Original Message -----
From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
; <'''Thompson'"(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 2:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: H frame wire and plumb bobs
> >
Sorry I left something out of prior posts. We didn't use costly store bought
"Bobs" that would rust and reduce monies available for important things in
life. Like more/better airplane parts. We found some left over deep sea lead
sinkers, extra large, shaped like an inverted pyramid with a loop cast into
the center. P.S. we also used plain ole tap water, really cheap. DO NOT
ARCHIVE Second layer of 'glass is now setting up. Gummibear & Kabong
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Trim |
Hi Jeff,
I have the electric trim in my RV-6, and have flown 66VA with Mike Seager at Van's,
which has manual trim. Either work fine, and it's a matter of preference.
I have the trim switch on the stick and like it a lot. But I got comfortable
with the manual trim very quickly as well.
If your going to go with the electric trim, a couple of things you should know.
IMHO, you really need the speed reducer on the RV. I test flew mine without
and have since added it. I have something like 30 seconds, end to end, and it's
still just a little sensitive just around neutral.
The second thing is to take a good look at Gretz Aero's servo mounting system.
I have the servo mounted in the elevator, and it took a LOT of lead to balance
the little sucker. All that lead has a huge moment on it. Warren's system
mounts the servo in front of the front elevator spar and uses a short cable to
the trim tab. No extra lead for the weight of the servo. I wish I had known
about it before I did mine. (No I don't work for Warren, but if he sent me a
cable for the plug.....I'd install it ;-)
Just my 2 cents worth,
Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 120 hrs
O-360, Sensenich (83)
Simi Valley, SoCal
I am getting ready to order my RV9A empenage kit. Any thoughts or comments
on the electric trim kit.
Should I go with it or not?
Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated. You may reply to me
directly at jeff(at)2wd.com
Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | protective coating |
I'm looking for comments on whether or not it is suggested to completely
remove the vinyl(plastic) protective coating on the interior parts &
surfaces of the aluminum. I'm wondering if by only removing strips of it
where webs etc get riveted, some sort of future condensation/reaction can
happen in the future
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nancy Jean Burkholder" <nancyb(at)mninter.net> |
| Subject: | HS-601PP is not PP'd |
After dinging the HS skin in my RV-6 empennage kit, I ordered a
replacement skin. The skin came uncut and without the rivet holes.
I can trim the skin but am in a quandry about how to drill the skin
to the holes already in the spars and ribs.
Any suggestions?
nancy b. "Good people are always so sure they're right."
Barbara Graham's last words
Executed June 5, 1955 at San Quentin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | -6 brake lines, dual brakes |
There are two loops of brake line which connect pilot's and copilot's master
cylinders. Is there some reason why the top of the loops can't be 6" or so
above the cross bar on the rudder pedals? This would put the top of the
loop near the same vertical position as the master cylinder.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | HS-601PP is not PP'd |
I would order new PP'ed skins. You will find that it matches up pretty good
to your already drilled holes in the spars. The holes in the ribs will be
more difficult though...
For what it's worth... I have two unused PP RV-6 skins that you can have
free of charge. They were drilled to the rear spar but should work fine with
your rear spar. I guess, if you need more to work with (or practice for that
sake) I have them here.
I never drilled them to ribs or riveted them. They are unused since I
changed plans and started building the RV-8.
I'm close to Toronto.
Regards,
Are
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Nancy Jean
Burkholder
Sent: October 17, 2000 7:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: HS-601PP is not PP'd
After dinging the HS skin in my RV-6 empennage kit, I ordered a
replacement skin. The skin came uncut and without the rivet holes.
I can trim the skin but am in a quandry about how to drill the skin
to the holes already in the spars and ribs.
Any suggestions?
nancy b. "Good people are always so sure they're right."
Barbara Graham's last words
Executed June 5, 1955 at San Quentin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Flap brace - holes not aligned |
I just test fitted the flap braces (W-821PP) and noticed that the
pre-punched holes doesn't line up. About 10 holes on the outboard side is
off on both wings. If I line up the braces with the outboard holes, then all
the holes on the inboard side is out of wack. They are all off by about
1/16" - way too much.
I also noticed that the braces were taped together and marked "W-821PPP"
with a marker. The L or R wasn't marked but the last P was scratched out.
Could this be a replacement of braces Van's recently did?
I came to this conclusion since I searched the archives for a solution to
this and seen that there was previous problems with the flap braces.
Thanks in advance,
Are
RV-8 Wings
C-GQRV (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HS-601PP is not PP'd |
Nancy,
You would have to back drill through the existing holes in the spar.
It sounds like you got HS-601 instead of HS-601PP. I would call and send it
back and get the proper skin. It'll make a difference in how easy things go
together especially since you've got the pre-punched spars.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nancy Jean Burkholder" <nancyb(at)mninter.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 6:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: HS-601PP is not PP'd
>
> After dinging the HS skin in my RV-6 empennage kit, I ordered a
> replacement skin. The skin came uncut and without the rivet holes.
> I can trim the skin but am in a quandry about how to drill the skin
> to the holes already in the spars and ribs.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> nancy b. "Good people are always so sure they're right."
>
> Barbara Graham's last words
> Executed June 5, 1955 at San Quentin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | rust under powder coat |
"Van Artsdalen, Scott"
Thanks for picking up the torch on this one, Terry. Now if everyone that
has the rust problem reports it to Van's maybe they can track down the
problem and fix it.
Geez, I hope they aren't powder coating these things in the Philippines,
that's the rust capital of the world. :-) Aside from just about any place
in Georgia. (I can say that, I come from Georgia!)
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Terry Watson [mailto:tcwatson(at)seanet.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 1:44 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; Van Artsdalen, Scott
Subject: Re: RV-List: rust under powder coat
Scott's comment below made sense, so I sent an e-mail to
Van's. Here is the
response, and the question:
----- Original Message -----
From: Van Artsdalen, Scott <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
>
> Has anyone actually talked to Van's about this? What is
the company
> position? Do they even know that this is a problem?
From Van's today:
No rust is the only acceptable standard. You can sand off
the
powder coat and prime it, or return it and we'll exchange it
for
another if you wish.
Gus Funnell
On 16 Oct 00, at 16:47, Terry Watson wrote:
> When my fuselage kit came a couple of weeks ago, I found
some rust
> coming through the powder coat on one of the U-403PC brake
mount
> flanges. I returned the rusted one and you replaced it,
but I see
> that the replacement also shows rust stains at the weld.
Maybe this
> is not a problem, but it does concern me. Is there a
standard as to
> how much rust is acceptable? Should I grind off the powder
coat and
> prime it?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Terry Watson, #80729
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | protective coating |
"Van Artsdalen, Scott"
I'd remove it. There is always the possibility that heat and vibration
could cause the plastic to peel off the alum at some future date and get
tangled up in something important. Plus any weight you can get rid of, no
matter how miniscule will help.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Tanner [mailto:gtanner(at)bendcable.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 3:42 PM
To: Rv-List
Subject: RV-List: protective coating
I'm looking for comments on whether or not it is suggested
to completely
remove the vinyl(plastic) protective coating on the interior
parts &
surfaces of the aluminum. I'm wondering if by only removing
strips of it
where webs etc get riveted, some sort of future
condensation/reaction can
happen in the future
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | rust under powder coat |
FWIW,
I apologize if someone mentioned this already:
A friend of mine that is a pilot and aircraft painter recently told me that
powder coating could potentially be dangerous since rust develops easily
without being noticed.
He further explained that a hairline crack or opening in the powder coating
will open the entire structure for moisture. The powder coating apparently
is a layer on top of the structure without being etched. This provides a
layer that can 0potentially suck moisture in. Try to picture how a small
drop of water would immediately spread between two layers of glass if you
applied it at the seam (I hope I make sense).
He did tell me though that it's completely safe but that I had to be
extremely cautious not to get cracks or openings in the coating.
It _looks_ very nice though :)
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Van Artsdalen,
Scott
Sent: October 17, 2000 8:14 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: rust under powder coat
Thanks for picking up the torch on this one, Terry. Now if everyone that
has the rust problem reports it to Van's maybe they can track down the
problem and fix it.
Geez, I hope they aren't powder coating these things in the Philippines,
that's the rust capital of the world. :-) Aside from just about any place
in Georgia. (I can say that, I come from Georgia!)
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Terry Watson [mailto:tcwatson(at)seanet.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 1:44 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; Van Artsdalen, Scott
Subject: Re: RV-List: rust under powder coat
Scott's comment below made sense, so I sent an e-mail to
Van's. Here is the
response, and the question:
----- Original Message -----
From: Van Artsdalen, Scott <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
>
> Has anyone actually talked to Van's about this? What is
the company
> position? Do they even know that this is a problem?
From Van's today:
No rust is the only acceptable standard. You can sand off
the
powder coat and prime it, or return it and we'll exchange it
for
another if you wish.
Gus Funnell
On 16 Oct 00, at 16:47, Terry Watson wrote:
> When my fuselage kit came a couple of weeks ago, I found
some rust
> coming through the powder coat on one of the U-403PC brake
mount
> flanges. I returned the rusted one and you replaced it,
but I see
> that the replacement also shows rust stains at the weld.
Maybe this
> is not a problem, but it does concern me. Is there a
standard as to
> how much rust is acceptable? Should I grind off the powder
coat and
> prime it?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Terry Watson, #80729
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: rust under powder coat |
In a message dated 10/16/00 9:48:50 AM Pacific Daylight Time, str(at)us.ibm.com
writes:
<< I've got the same thing on my RV8 tail spring mount- yellow rust spots
showing thru, across all surfaces.
Seems like Van's needs to investigate this- either the sub isn't catching
things or Van's hasn't set a procedure
in place to remove the rust before painting! >>
I always hate to rain on anyone's parade, but it sure is interesting to see
so many good people in denial when it comes to powder coating. They really
want it to be a good corrosion resistant finish because it is so easy to do
and is so environmentally friendly (no solvents, 100% recoverable). So
rather than finish steel parts properly with a proper MIL-Spec epoxy chromate
primer, they just keep powder coating and telling you that your problem parts
are the exception. Insisting to the contrary doesn't change physics. Powder
coating is a DECORATIVE finish only and has no corrosion resistant
properties, end of story. If you want it right, do it right.
By the way, we really enjoyed Copperstate (despite the transportation
problems) and meeting all of the fellow RV builders/flyers and their spouses.
We stopped over at Page on Sunday thru Tuesday. High points of our trip
included a roll over Monument Valley Sunday and taking the Fossil Canyon
Corridor over the Grand Canyon Today. As my buddy Laird says: "You are going
to love this plane".
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Trim |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>I'm in the process this week of installing the speed controller for the
>electric elevator trim. On my -6, the elevator trim is sensitive. It
>takes quick jabs on the button to trim the plane in cruise without
>over-trimming. IMHO the speed controller is required.
Before speed control is added, it's a good idea to check
the mechanical setup. Do some flight testing to (1) trim
your airplane for level flight at 5 kts above stall and
fwd c.g. . . leave the trim in that position and land.
Meaure the position of the trim system's motion mechanism.
Trim for level flight at max cruise with at aft c.g. limit.
Again, land the airplane and measure where the trim system
is with respect to its present full travel.
MOST of the builders I've worked with have trim systems
that are mechanically much too powerful. I.e. way
more travel than what's needed to operate the airplane.
After modifying the mechanism's gain so that full travel
of the electric trim actuator provides trim system motion
right at or slightly larger than the flight test limits,
many have found that trim speed control is not necessary.
In any case, trim speed control is a good idea only after
you've determined that the trim system is mechanically
incapable of "making you break a sweat".
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different from )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Luster" <rlluster(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Trim |
Hi Jeff,
When I went on a demo ride in Van's RV9A, I was very impressed on the trim
capabilities of the aircraft. I was so impressed, that's what I built in
mine. The trim control was in the grip, I am still trying to determine
weather to use the grip button or panel mount.
Richard Luster
Marysville, WA
RV9A, wings
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Moreau <jeff(at)2wd.com>
; <"'Mike Thompson'"(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 12:56 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Electric Trim
>
> I am getting ready to order my RV9A empenage kit. Any thoughts or
comments
> on the electric trim kit.
> Should I go with it or not?
> Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated. You may reply to me
> directly at jeff(at)2wd.com
> Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
| Subject: | Re: vacum regulator |
Joe,
Funny your question came up as I asked the same from Rapco themselves not
too long ago. In (clockwise) is more - somewhat less intuitive than one
might expect. I always feel like clockwise would make the screw tighter, or
"pinching" air from passing through, thus less pressure. It's not that way.
Anh
N985VU
Maryland
>
>I have just installed a new vacum pump on my O360 A1D.
>Could some one tell me if I turn the screw in or out
>to increase Vacum. Thanks ahead
>do not archieve
> Joe
>RV6A 109 hrs, much fun
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terence Gannon <tgannon(at)stoneboat.com> |
I was in Vernon this past weekend, and saw an absolutely beautiful
RV-4...registration was C-GEAU. I checked the registry and apparently,
this aircraft belongs to Chuck Ross, also of Vernon. If anyone has an
email address for Chuck, I have some pretty nice, high resolution digital
pictures I can send him. Please reply off list. Thanks...
Terry in Calgary
S/N 24414
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "<Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com> |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Wed,
18 Oct 2000 09:15:58.-0400(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | New Lycoming Leak |
18 Oct 2000 09:15:58.-0400(at)matronics.com
Hey All,
I'm posting this for a friend that is an inspection away from flying his -6QB.
He has run his new 0-369 twice now and both times has found an oil leak where
the two case halves meet the sump. Its just enough to make a mess and keep him
from sleeping for a week. Has anyone run into this? Engine guys, do you think
this will seal up when he get the thing up to flying speed for a little while.
Any advice will sure be apreciated.
Eric Henson posting for Keith Leverett
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
2000(at)earthlink.net, 09:15:58.-0400(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: New Lycoming Leak |
The short answer is no. If the bolts are all torqued correctly, then I would call
Lycoming - if it's a new engine, or the overhauler - if it's rebuilt. If neither
than he's going to have to drop the sump and reseal
with a new gasket. If the leak is coming from the case split line then he'll either
have to split the case and reseal or use some epoxy sealant on the external
split line.
Bruce
Glasair III
" (Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id for ; Wed", 18, Oct, 2000,
09:15:58.-0400(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> Hey All,
>
> I'm posting this for a friend that is an inspection away from flying his -6QB.
> He has run his new 0-369 twice now and both times has found an oil leak where
> the two case halves meet the sump. Its just enough to make a mess and keep him
> from sleeping for a week. Has anyone run into this? Engine guys, do you think
> this will seal up when he get the thing up to flying speed for a little while.
> Any advice will sure be apreciated.
>
> Eric Henson posting for Keith Leverett
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | protective coating |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I take it all off when I get to the deburr, dimple stage. We are going to
scratch it up & prime later.
Don Jordan -- 6A finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
*****************************************************
writes:
>
> I'm looking for comments on whether or not it is suggested to
> completely
> remove the vinyl(plastic) protective coating on the interior parts &
> surfaces of the aluminum. I'm wondering if by only removing strips
> of it
> where webs etc get riveted, some sort of future
> condensation/reaction can
> happen in the future
>
> Greg Tanner
> RV-9A Empennage
> SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New Lycoming Leak |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: New Lycoming Leak
Thread-Index: AcA5DBb3bQU+FJE/SrqURy8bLG4YhwAA/7Rw
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Eric,
If it's a little leak on the ground run-ups, it will turn into a mess
in-flight. Even if its just a few drips. Pay-me-now, or pay-me-later.
It's tougher to fix stuff when your bird is flying because you want to
fly it, not work on it...trust me. Tell him to wipe the oil off and fix
it after the inspector's gone, before he flies it.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 53 hours
Hey All,
I'm posting this for a friend that is an inspection away from flying his
-6QB.
He has run his new 0-369 twice now and both times has found an oil leak
where
the two case halves meet the sump. Its just enough to make a mess and
keep him
from sleeping for a week. Has anyone run into this? Engine guys, do you
think
this will seal up when he get the thing up to flying speed for a little
while.
Any advice will sure be apreciated.
Eric Henson posting for Keith Leverett
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electric Trim |
10/18/2000 11:05:39 AM
Trim button by the throttle is nice because it allows the co-pilot to fly.
Also, having one centrally located switch dosen't require a complex switich
regulator matrix or relay bank. (see recent posts). In my book simpler is
better.
"Richard Luster" (at)matronics.com on 10/17/2000 10:20:31 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to "Richard Luster"
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Electric Trim
Hi Jeff,
When I went on a demo ride in Van's RV9A, I was very impressed on the trim
capabilities of the aircraft. I was so impressed, that's what I built in
mine. The trim control was in the grip, I am still trying to determine
weather to use the grip button or panel mount.
Richard Luster
Marysville, WA
RV9A, wings
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Moreau <jeff(at)2wd.com>
; <"'Mike Thompson'"(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 12:56 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Electric Trim
>
> I am getting ready to order my RV9A empenage kit. Any thoughts or
comments
> on the electric trim kit.
> Should I go with it or not?
> Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated. You may reply to me
> directly at jeff(at)2wd.com
> Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine Baffle Trick |
10/18/2000 11:12:03 AM
I had a gap between the engine nose area and the Vans baffle that
rounds around the starter gear/pulley area. Others in my area had a gap
also. Its rather difficult to fabricate metal to fit correctly there in
the first place. I used some fire sleeve hose I had left over from my #6
hose fabrication. I cut the fire sleeve hose and wedged the red/orange fire
sleeve into place to seal the area between the engine and the front baffle.
I then sealed/glued the fire hose in place with a bead of orange hi-temp
RTV. The job looks 100% professional and seals up a rather difficult area
to seal.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | W FEGGESTAD <n7325g(at)email.com> |
| Subject: | tools and tail kit for sale. |
Unfortunately I am forced to sell my partially completed RV-6 tail kit and
tools (3x gun, c-frame, pneumatic squeezer, etc.) If intrested please
contact me off-list at : n7325g(at)email.com
Wayne
-----------------------------------------------
FREE! The World's Best Email Address @email.com
Reserve your name now at http://www.email.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: tools and tail kit for sale. |
Hi Wayne, I am looking for a pneumatic squeezer if you can sell it separately
give me a whistle. What brand and what size yokes?
Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Winters <dwinters(at)acraline.com> |
"'Robert L. Nuckolls, III'"
| Subject: | Re: Electric Trim |
Just off the top of my head, has anyone looked at making the lever arm that
controls the trim tab shorter? This would decrease the travel, and no fancy
speed control is required. I've run my speed control a couple times, but I
haven't even finished the wings yet, so trim isn't necessary :) I know the
connecting bracket is fairly small, but I'm prone to look at a mechanical
fix for this problem.
Don
(how's it goin' Bob?)
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III [mailto:nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 9:31 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Electric Trim
>
>I'm in the process this week of installing the speed controller for the
>electric elevator trim. On my -6, the elevator trim is sensitive. It
>takes quick jabs on the button to trim the plane in cruise without
>over-trimming. IMHO the speed controller is required.
Before speed control is added, it's a good idea to check
the mechanical setup. Do some flight testing to (1) trim
your airplane for level flight at 5 kts above stall and
fwd c.g. . . leave the trim in that position and land.
Meaure the position of the trim system's motion mechanism.
Trim for level flight at max cruise with at aft c.g. limit.
Again, land the airplane and measure where the trim system
is with respect to its present full travel.
MOST of the builders I've worked with have trim systems
that are mechanically much too powerful. I.e. way
more travel than what's needed to operate the airplane.
After modifying the mechanism's gain so that full travel
of the electric trim actuator provides trim system motion
right at or slightly larger than the flight test limits,
many have found that trim speed control is not necessary.
In any case, trim speed control is a good idea only after
you've determined that the trim system is mechanically
incapable of "making you break a sweat".
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different from )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Not directly RV related - delete if you don't need inspiration |
"Van Artsdalen, Scott"
This isn't directly RV-related but I found it very inspirational in relation
to the set backs we all experience as builders. This is actually from a
fitness newsletter my wife receives. Read and take to heart. But don't
send it to everyone you know.
You're Making Progress
As long as you're taking consistent, positive action, you're making
progress. At times, it may seem that you're going backwards. At times, it
will be frustrating when the results don't come as quickly as you had hoped.
Still, you are making progress.
Achievement is a process, not a single event. To achieve any goal, you must
cover a lot of ground. You need to learn what works, and what does not work.
You must explore possibilities, many of which will not turn out to be
feasible.
Still, with every action you're making progress. Even the setbacks are
necessary stepping stones on the path to success.
Keep up the good work. Keep up the effort. You're well on your way by now.
With every moment, you get closer. With every effort, you make progress, no
matter what the short-term results. You've come a long way. Keep going.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Trim |
--- Don Winters wrote:
>
> Just off the top of my head, has anyone looked at making the lever
> arm that
> controls the trim tab shorter? This would decrease the travel, and
> no fancy speed control is required.
Been a while since I looked at my trim setup (emp in storage) but
typically if you shorten a lever you will _increase_ sensitivity.
Think about a short control stick versus a long one. Precise movements
are easier at the extreme end of the stick, not down near the base.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Saulsgiver <jms(at)eznet.net> |
| Subject: | intro, plumb bobs |
hello rv-listers,
I thought it would be a good time to introduce myself.
Jon Saulsgiver, building an RV-6A in Rochester, NY. I bought
wing and tail kits (both circa 1997, pre-punched; phlog. spars)
from a local person who was moving across the country.
I was finally able to get started about two weeks ago, and things
are coming along pretty well (OK, I've made some mistakes, but
Van's was happy to sell me replacement parts :-)
on plumb bobs: I'm using Cleaveland's inexpensive (steel) plumb
bobs, hung with dental floss. I was having the same problem with
the bob hanging off-center, since the floss is so much smaller
than the center hole. I fixed it by taking an AN426 rivet, and
drilling a very small hole down the middle, and threading it
onto the floss, head down. it centers the floss in the bob nicely.
on dimpling: I was scratching my head over how to dimple the
forward-most two holes in the HS-606 (outer end) ribs. Based on
Don Jordan's comments about homemade threaded dies, I have an
idea or two, but was wondering what you folks have done. maybe
someone sells a modified thin-nose vice grip with a set of
dimple dies right out on the tip, that will get into the limited
space? I ordered a flat-sided die from Avery, but I don't think
it'll work either, because the squeezer yoke won't fit in the space.
thanks!
-Jon Saulsgiver
RV-6A emp
Rochester, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Trim |
I have the MAC electric trims for both aileron and elevator. I do have the
MAC speed controller too, turned down as slow as it will go. I very much
like the electric trim on my control stick. Although there were a lot of
small wires to solder, it is very convenient. I like not having to take my
hand off the throttle or the stick during landing approach to adjust the
trim. Electric is lighter too, without the cable run all the way back
through the empennage.
At cruise, I am able to trim nearly hands off. I usually rest my left arm
on the arm rest and grab the control stick with my fingers from the top.
The only problem I've run into is that my son, during our recent cross
country to CopperState, rested a clipboard on top of the co-pilot's stick
while looking at a map. I thought I had a runaway trim motor for a second
until I realized that the clipboard was depressing the aileron trim button.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 85 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Not directly RV related - delete if you don't need inspiration |
--- "Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
> This isn't directly RV-related but I found it very inspirational in
> relation to the set backs we all experience as builders.
I don't know... This sounds like something written by a RV builder
_for_ RV builders!
:)
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage (one piece at a time, a little bit every day)
Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Weyant <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Baffle Trick |
You don't have a pic you could scan do you? I just can't get a mental pic of
what you did.
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> I had a gap between the engine nose area and the Vans baffle that
> rounds around the starter gear/pulley area. Others in my area had a gap
> also. Its rather difficult to fabricate metal to fit correctly there in
> the first place. I used some fire sleeve hose I had left over from my #6
> hose fabrication. I cut the fire sleeve hose and wedged the red/orange fire
> sleeve into place to seal the area between the engine and the front baffle.
> I then sealed/glued the fire hose in place with a bead of orange hi-temp
> RTV. The job looks 100% professional and seals up a rather difficult area
> to seal.
>
--
Regards,
Chuck Weyant
EMail Me: chuck(at)chuckdirect.com
WebSite: http://www.chuckdirect.com
Santa Maria, CA
805 347-8882
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II,'227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount
of $500.00 U.S. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Winters <dwinters(at)acraline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Trim |
er... yeah... I mean make it longer :)
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Thompson [mailto:grobdriver(at)yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 12:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Electric Trim
--- Don Winters wrote:
>
> Just off the top of my head, has anyone looked at making the lever
> arm that
> controls the trim tab shorter? This would decrease the travel, and
> no fancy speed control is required.
Been a while since I looked at my trim setup (emp in storage) but
typically if you shorten a lever you will _increase_ sensitivity.
Think about a short control stick versus a long one. Precise movements
are easier at the extreme end of the stick, not down near the base.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: intro, plumb bobs |
Hi jon, I use an avery pop rivet type dimpler in those areas, just have to
spread the flanges out with my fingers a little to get the nail in there,
then squeeze them back together. I like the threaded plate idea though, that
sounds even better
Kevin
-9A waiting for fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electric Trim |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Re: Electric Trim
Thread-Index: AcA4q169+p4cNG7FS3SULbKp+gV57gAcNiqw
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Hi Bob,
Tried that before I decided to put the speed controller in. When I
originally made the trim tab, I made the arm longer than specified to
try to slow it down. During flight testing I found that with this
arrangement the slowest I could trim for was 80mph solo with full up
trim, full fuel, pretty much at the forward cg limit. With a passenger,
the problem went away. Once I redrilled the horn per-plans and cut off
the extra length I added, the solo trim problem went away since I had
more trim-tab travel with the shorter horn. The side-effect of doing
this was the trim got even more sensitive, which was sensitive to begin
with. In cruise very small trim-tab movements make a big difference
(~1/16" at the trailing edge), especially at forward cg--too long on the
jabs of the trim button will cause it to overshoot.
Not too long ago I let an airline-pilot friend of mine fly left-seat,
and he inadvertently left his thumb on the up button. He thought we had
a run-away trim since it reacted so quickly, full-up trim at cruise can
be easily overcome with stick pressure.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 53 hours
Before speed control is added, it's a good idea to check
the mechanical setup. Do some flight testing to (1) trim
your airplane for level flight at 5 kts above stall and
fwd c.g. . . leave the trim in that position and land.
Meaure the position of the trim system's motion mechanism.
Trim for level flight at max cruise with at aft c.g. limit.
Again, land the airplane and measure where the trim system
is with respect to its present full travel.
MOST of the builders I've worked with have trim systems
that are mechanically much too powerful. I.e. way
more travel than what's needed to operate the airplane.
After modifying the mechanism's gain so that full travel
of the electric trim actuator provides trim system motion
right at or slightly larger than the flight test limits,
many have found that trim speed control is not necessary.
In any case, trim speed control is a good idea only after
you've determined that the trim system is mechanically
incapable of "making you break a sweat".
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different from )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Trim |
Don,
I think you have it backwards. If you shorten the trim bracket it will take
less movement of the trim motor to get the same trim movement, but it will
take more torque to make that movement.
To decrease the the amount of trim movement over a given amount of time you
would have to increase the distance of the trim horn realitive to the pivot
point.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Winters" <dwinters(at)acraline.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 11:52 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Electric Trim
>
> Just off the top of my head, has anyone looked at making the lever arm
that
> controls the trim tab shorter? This would decrease the travel, and no
fancy
> speed control is required. I've run my speed control a couple times, but
I
> haven't even finished the wings yet, so trim isn't necessary :) I know
the
> connecting bracket is fairly small, but I'm prone to look at a mechanical
> fix for this problem.
>
> Don
>
> (how's it goin' Bob?)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III [mailto:nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 9:31 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; Bob Japundza
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Electric Trim
>
>
>
>
> >
> >I'm in the process this week of installing the speed controller for the
> >electric elevator trim. On my -6, the elevator trim is sensitive. It
> >takes quick jabs on the button to trim the plane in cruise without
> >over-trimming. IMHO the speed controller is required.
>
> Before speed control is added, it's a good idea to check
> the mechanical setup. Do some flight testing to (1) trim
> your airplane for level flight at 5 kts above stall and
> fwd c.g. . . leave the trim in that position and land.
> Meaure the position of the trim system's motion mechanism.
> Trim for level flight at max cruise with at aft c.g. limit.
> Again, land the airplane and measure where the trim system
> is with respect to its present full travel.
>
> MOST of the builders I've worked with have trim systems
> that are mechanically much too powerful. I.e. way
> more travel than what's needed to operate the airplane.
> After modifying the mechanism's gain so that full travel
> of the electric trim actuator provides trim system motion
> right at or slightly larger than the flight test limits,
> many have found that trim speed control is not necessary.
>
> In any case, trim speed control is a good idea only after
> you've determined that the trim system is mechanically
> incapable of "making you break a sweat".
>
>
> Bob . . .
> --------------------------------------------
> ( Knowing about a thing is different from )
> ( understanding it. One can know a lot )
> ( and still understand nothing. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Weyant <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Trim |
I'm staying with the manual elevator trim. More reliable. I had an all wood
Cavalier that a previous owner had pranged on landing due to a runaway electric
trim. I understand the newer motors are more reliable, but...
Chuck Weyant
RV9A #90071 30%Wings
Greg Tanner wrote:
> I am getting ready to order my RV9A empenage kit. Any thoughts or comments
> on the electric trim kit.
> Should I go with it or not?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: intro, plumb bobs |
Use the thin nose 3" yoke with no die attached. The hole in the yolk is
beveled and will give you a good dimple when the male die is used. Also,
don't hesitate to bend the flange on the rib back as necessary. It can be
easily rebent.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
>
> on dimpling: I was scratching my head over how to dimple the
> forward-most two holes in the HS-606 (outer end) ribs. Based on
> Don Jordan's comments about homemade threaded dies, I have an
> idea or two, but was wondering what you folks have done. maybe
> someone sells a modified thin-nose vice grip with a set of
> dimple dies right out on the tip, that will get into the limited
> space? I ordered a flat-sided die from Avery, but I don't think
> it'll work either, because the squeezer yoke won't fit in the space.
>
> thanks!
>
> -Jon Saulsgiver
> RV-6A emp
> Rochester, NY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Runaway Electric Trim |
"Jones, Bryan D." <bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
Regarding a runaway trim, don't forget to check the control response of your
plane at full trim deflection during flight testing! Early on, based on how
quickly my (electric/MAC servo) elevator trim moved/responded, I thought the
plane might not be easily controlled with full trim deflection. As it
turned out, it's very distracting but not a major problem, IMHO.
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lancaster Seminar Date Set |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
10/18/2000 10:01:46 AM
Lancaster...where ? Which state ? thanks in advance.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 14 & 28 volt lights |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Boy I had fun last nite.
I wrote Bob N. about a bunch of my dumb lectric type questions. Then I
got home & found out about half of it were lies. My slaved DG, &
transponer were dim. My tach lights were not working at tall. The lie
was, I told him the tach was a "built in" bulb like the DG. I got it out
& found it has a 14 volt bar just like all the other lighted instruments.
It must of had corrosion under the bulbs. It wouln't run under 14 volts,
yet it had resistance on a ohm meter. After playing with it a while it
then run. Now this came from a Viking (300 hp). so it is red lined at
2850. We painted the red & stuck a green sticker on the yellow arc & not
it is ready for a 6A. Also ran it back to zero. hey, its a new aircraft.
Now, this is what I learned. The DG & my Kt76A transponder has bulbs
inside ( no external bar) & they are dim. Them avoinics houses want
$850.00 to OH. The drawings I got from Century for the DG shows 2 ways
for wiring the lights for 12 or 24 volts. My Glass-Air buddy came buy to
help. I was about to offer Bob the $850 to drive from Kansaa to help. I
had given up on fixing them. Pin 14 on the DG was not there. He then
jumped on Bob's dimmer & after I won that war over the "keep warm"
resister, He finally saw the problem.
They didn't need pin 14 because of the 28 volts. So I will go get a pin.
They ( the secret avionics types) put two 14volt bulbs in & wire it so I
can run 28v in series OR bring the 14v up the center tape & ground the
outside wires. Now we got the 14v bulbs in parellel. I looked at the
transponder pin out, & they are doing the same.
Don Jordan -- 6A finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
*****************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | intro, plumb bobs |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I was all wet yesterday. Got home & thought about it & that won't work
cause the threads don't go out to the head of the screw. ( the male die)
. WE have a low production rate, so Jack , I think you may have to use a
slightly over size hole in the female die & a nut on the back side.
to answer Jon. I used a c/s in a flat bar, but I didn't like it. Well
somemore digs.
Don Jordan -- 6A finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
*****************************************************
On Wed, 18 Oct 2000 17:39:00 GMT Jon Saulsgiver writes:
>
> hello rv-listers,
>
> I thought it would be a good time to introduce myself.
> Jon Saulsgiver, building an RV-6A in Rochester, NY. I bought
> wing and tail kits (both circa 1997, pre-punched; phlog. spars)
> from a local person who was moving across the country.
> I was finally able to get started about two weeks ago, and things
> are coming along pretty well (OK, I've made some mistakes, but
> Van's was happy to sell me replacement parts :-)
>
> on plumb bobs: I'm using Cleaveland's inexpensive (steel) plumb
> bobs, hung with dental floss. I was having the same problem with
> the bob hanging off-center, since the floss is so much smaller
> than the center hole. I fixed it by taking an AN426 rivet, and
> drilling a very small hole down the middle, and threading it
> onto the floss, head down. it centers the floss in the bob nicely.
>
> on dimpling: I was scratching my head over how to dimple the
> forward-most two holes in the HS-606 (outer end) ribs. Based on
> Don Jordan's comments about homemade threaded dies, I have an
> idea or two, but was wondering what you folks have done. maybe
> someone sells a modified thin-nose vice grip with a set of
> dimple dies right out on the tip, that will get into the limited
> space? I ordered a flat-sided die from Avery, but I don't think
> it'll work either, because the squeezer yoke won't fit in the
> space.
>
> thanks!
>
> -Jon Saulsgiver
> RV-6A emp
> Rochester, NY
>
________________________________________________________________________________
A friend is "restoring" an early RV-4 with an IO-360, 180 hp helicopter
motor. He is in need of an exhaust system, probably custom made due to funky
nature of the sump. He has the existing exhaust that was originally
fabricated with all the right bends, but it is in poor condition.
Can anyone recommend a source for a custom exhaust, mild steel or S/S.
Regards,
Bill Mahoney
Sherman, CT
RV-6 N747W (DXR)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | W FEGGESTAD <n7325g(at)email.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tools and tail kit for sale. |
Kevin;
i have a couple people interested in all the tools. If anything changes i
will contact you.
Thanks,
Wayne
Hi Wayne, I am looking for a pneumatic squeezer if you can sell it
separately
give me a whistle. What brand and what size yokes?
Kevin
-----------------------------------------------
FREE! The World's Best Email Address @email.com
Reserve your name now at http://www.email.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Runaway Electric Trim |
In a message dated 10/18/00 2:54:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com writes:
> Regarding a runaway trim, don't forget to check the control response of your
> plane at full trim deflection during flight testing! Early on, based on
how
> quickly my (electric/MAC servo) elevator trim moved/responded, I thought
the
> plane might not be easily controlled with full trim deflection. As it
> turned out, it's very distracting but not a major problem, IMHO.
>
>
Hi Bryan,
What speeds and altitudes did you test full deflection?
Bernie Kerr, 6A ,SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust source |
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV6ator(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 1:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: Exhaust source
Try markpipe62@.com he is great, he builds custom exhaust for motorcycles
and is building an RV-6A of his own. He made the exhaust for Gummibears HRII
Rocket. He would need the old set to use for a pattern but he's very good at
that type of thing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | lycoming oil leak |
When I first started my O360 I had what looked like
oil coming out of the bottom of my case half. After a
couple of frusterating days of worrying I found it was
coming out of the cp prop seal and leaking down (very
sneeky)
Joe
RV6A 110 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
"Eustace Bowhay"
Hey Eustace, I just saw your Float equiped Rv on Speedvision.
Cool takeoff. How much distance does it take in average water condition?
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Moreau" <jeff(at)2wd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tools and tail kit for sale. |
OK,
Thanks
-----Original Message-----
From: W FEGGESTAD <n7325g(at)email.com>
Date: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 6:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: tools and tail kit for sale.
>
>Kevin;
>
>i have a couple people interested in all the tools. If anything changes i
>will contact you.
>
>Thanks,
>Wayne
>
>
>Hi Wayne, I am looking for a pneumatic squeezer if you can sell it
>separately
>give me a whistle. What brand and what size yokes?
>Kevin
>
>
>-----------------------------------------------
>FREE! The World's Best Email Address @email.com
>Reserve your name now at http://www.email.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Fwd: Concept paint |
Some useful info from PPG
Brian Eckstein
From: "Springer, Chris" <cspringer(at)ppg.com>
Subject: RE: Concept paint
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 15:27:13 -0400
Thank you for your interest in PPG Brian!
-----Original Message-----
From: BSEckstein(at)cs.com [mailto:BSEckstein(at)cs.com]
Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2000 8:04 PM
Subject: Concept paint
Perhaps you can help me. I will be painting a new aluminum aircraft with
PPG
Concept paint. It has already been primed with DP-40. Is there a source
for
information that details the correct method of painting. In specific:
What is the proper method to cover a color base with a clear coat?
After applying your DCC Concept paint, allow it to dry for a minimum of two
hours for s solid color and a minimum of four hours for a metallic color.
It can the be topcoated with any of PPG's "DCU" Clears.
Can the clear coat be put on weeks after the colors?
You have up to seventy two hours to clearcoat the DCC without sanding it.
After seventy two hours it is recommended to sand the paint with 1000 grit
paper wet/dry and then clearcoat it to get proper adhesion.
Can I sand down the edges due to masking easily?
If I understand the question correctly, it could be difficult to sand down
"hard" primer edge. Some times if the mil build is too high it can be seen
after paint even if it feels smooth.
Do I need to re-prime just before color?
DP epoxy must be sanded and recoated if allowed to sit for more than seven
days. Before seven days it can be topcoated without sanding.
What is the preferred method for repair?
From the start PPG recommends to clean, sand, reclean and apply a primer or
sealer to the old finish before topcoating it. If starting from bare metal,
clean, sand, reclean and prime with two coats of DP, then topcoat.
Can it be sanded or polished weeks or months after painting?
It is preferred to polish within one week but if the correct steps are taken
it can be done at any time. Correct steps being sand with 1500 and then
2000 and then polish with a compound.
Please feel free to contact our Technical Service Department at
We have established an automated faxing system that allows you to fax
yourself product bulletins 24 hours a day. The PPG FaxBack number
is 800-450-2654. If you order document number 247475 from our Faxback
system, this document provides the instructions on how to use the system and
the indexes that are available.
This office can be reached at 440-572-6111 or FAX 440-572-6772. The
E-mail address is - reftechserv(at)PPG.com
Before using any PPG Refinish products, be sure you understand the
warning messages on the labels of all components, since the mixture
will have the hazards of all it's parts. Spray equipment must be
handled with due care and in accordance with manufacturer's
recommendations. Spraying of any material can be hazardous. PPG
recommends the use of a fresh air supplied respirator with the use of
any of our products. PPG REFINISH MATERIALS ARE DESIGNED FOR
APPLICATION BY PROFESSIONAL, TRAINED PERSONNEL USING PROPER EQUIPMENT
UNDER CONTROLLED CONDITIONS, AND IS NOT INTENDED FOR SALE TO THE
GENERAL PUBLIC.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | intro, plumb bobs |
I used the pop-rivet dimple dies and bent nail. See my website, elevator
section.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
-snip-
> > on dimpling: I was scratching my head over how to dimple the
> > forward-most two holes in the HS-606 (outer end) ribs. Based on
> > Don Jordan's comments about homemade threaded dies, I have an
> > idea or two, but was wondering what you folks have done. maybe
> > someone sells a modified thin-nose vice grip with a set of
> > dimple dies right out on the tip, that will get into the limited
> > space? I ordered a flat-sided die from Avery, but I don't think
> > it'll work either, because the squeezer yoke won't fit in the space.
> >
> > thanks!
> >
> > -Jon Saulsgiver
> > RV-6A emp
> > Rochester, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust source |
However, Jack forgot to tell you that Mark lives in Calif.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: John Starn <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 3:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Exhaust source
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <RV6ator(at)AOL.COM>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 1:37 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Exhaust source
>
>
> Try markpipe62@.com he is great, he builds custom exhaust for motorcycles
> and is building an RV-6A of his own. He made the exhaust for Gummibears
HRII
> Rocket. He would need the old set to use for a pattern but he's very good
at
> that type of thing.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust source |
However, Jack forgot to tell you that Mark lives in Calif.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: John Starn <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 3:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Exhaust source
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <RV6ator(at)AOL.COM>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 1:37 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Exhaust source
>
>
> Try markpipe62@.com he is great, he builds custom exhaust for motorcycles
> and is building an RV-6A of his own. He made the exhaust for Gummibears
HRII
> Rocket. He would need the old set to use for a pattern but he's very good
at
> that type of thing.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Hatwell <RV8OR(at)overvne.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: New engine choice |
Will they be able to handle CS props controlled by oil press as distinct
the expensive electric MT Props
80274
--
Rob Hatwell
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: lycoming oil leak |
10/19/2000 09:29:24 AM
Due to the wind pressures (prop blasts) from the prop and the odd pressure
gradients from the baffle and cowl area , oil leaks are almost NEVER where
you expect them to be. I once suspected my oil leak was being caused by
the airplane next to mine because I couldn't find the source of the leak on
my engine. Turned out to be a hairline crack in my filler tube.....go
figure.......
joe wiza (at)matronics.com on 10/18/2000 07:04:06 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to joe wiza
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: lycoming oil leak
When I first started my O360 I had what looked like
oil coming out of the bottom of my case half. After a
couple of frusterating days of worrying I found it was
coming out of the cp prop seal and leaking down (very
sneeky)
Joe
RV6A 110 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bert murillo <bertrv6(at)yahoo.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Trim |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>Hi Bob,
>
>Tried that before I decided to put the speed controller in. When I
>originally made the trim tab, I made the arm longer than specified to
>try to slow it down. During flight testing I found that with this
>arrangement the slowest I could trim for was 80mph solo with full up
>trim, full fuel, pretty much at the forward cg limit. With a passenger,
>the problem went away. Once I redrilled the horn per-plans and cut off
>the extra length I added, the solo trim problem went away since I had
>more trim-tab travel with the shorter horn. The side-effect of doing
>this was the trim got even more sensitive, which was sensitive to begin
>with. In cruise very small trim-tab movements make a big difference
>(~1/16" at the trailing edge), especially at forward cg--too long on the
>jabs of the trim button will cause it to overshoot.
>
>Not too long ago I let an airline-pilot friend of mine fly left-seat,
>and he inadvertently left his thumb on the up button. He thought we had
>a run-away trim since it reacted so quickly, full-up trim at cruise can
>be easily overcome with stick pressure.
>
>Bob Japundza
>RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 53 hours
Okay, you've done the recommended mechanical study.
I've worked multi-speed trim systems on a/c from
Barons to Lears. As the cruise/landing speed
ratios get bigger, the need for variable trim
rates go up. Our lighting dimmers can be set up
to provide independently adjustable hi/lo trim
rates on any of the popular trim motors. There
are a variety of other offerings out there too.
If it's even slightly attractive, it's not difficult
to do.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different from )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electric Trim |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Re: Electric Trim
Thread-Index: AcA512DQ+lS5GMtxR6Cf1QcG986RngAAG2Iw
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Bob,
How about a airspeed-sensitive electric trim speed controller? My idea
is to have a pressure transducer in the static system that controls a
trim curve; ie., increases resistance in the trim circuit at cruise
speeds but speeds up the trim control at slower speeds. A minor thing,
really, but would be nice to have. I think the Rocket builders in
particular would benefit from that sort of gizmo.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 53 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III [mailto:nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2000 9:19 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Electric Trim
>
>Hi Bob,
>
>Tried that before I decided to put the speed controller in. When I
>originally made the trim tab, I made the arm longer than specified to
>try to slow it down. During flight testing I found that with this
>arrangement the slowest I could trim for was 80mph solo with full up
>trim, full fuel, pretty much at the forward cg limit. With a
passenger,
>the problem went away. Once I redrilled the horn per-plans and cut off
>the extra length I added, the solo trim problem went away since I had
>more trim-tab travel with the shorter horn. The side-effect of doing
>this was the trim got even more sensitive, which was sensitive to begin
>with. In cruise very small trim-tab movements make a big difference
>(~1/16" at the trailing edge), especially at forward cg--too long on
the
>jabs of the trim button will cause it to overshoot.
>
>Not too long ago I let an airline-pilot friend of mine fly left-seat,
>and he inadvertently left his thumb on the up button. He thought we
had
>a run-away trim since it reacted so quickly, full-up trim at cruise can
>be easily overcome with stick pressure.
>
>Bob Japundza
>RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 53 hours
Okay, you've done the recommended mechanical study.
I've worked multi-speed trim systems on a/c from
Barons to Lears. As the cruise/landing speed
ratios get bigger, the need for variable trim
rates go up. Our lighting dimmers can be set up
to provide independently adjustable hi/lo trim
rates on any of the popular trim motors. There
are a variety of other offerings out there too.
If it's even slightly attractive, it's not difficult
to do.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different from )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Trim |
--- Bob Japundza wrote:
>
>
> Bob,
>
> How about a airspeed-sensitive electric trim speed controller? My
> idea
> is to have a pressure transducer in the static system that controls a
> trim curve; ie., increases resistance in the trim circuit at cruise
> speeds but speeds up the trim control at slower speeds. A minor
> thing,
> really, but would be nice to have. I think the Rocket builders in
> particular would benefit from that sort of gizmo.
I'm thinking of a less elegant method of varying the drive rate of my
trim.
A switch piggy-backed on the flap position switch will kick in (out,
actually) the servo controller so that when my flaps come down, the
sensitivity of the trim increases (expecting slower speeds and wanting
quicker trim adjustments). With flaps up, the controller will be in
the circuit to slow the trim down and give finer adjustments at cruise
speeds.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV 9Reserved)
Fuselage
Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ian Belmore" <ian.belmore(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Larger Tires and Wheels |
Here in the UK we suffer from very wet winters which makes a lot of our
grass strips unuseable for up to 6 months. We have tried 6" tires on the
Vans standard 5" rims but they are not big enough. Most 6" wheels have a
larger axle which could be sleeved but a new brake set would be expensive.
Has anyone have any success fitting larger wheels to the RV and managed to
keep the standard brakes (Ballon tires seem to only be available for the 6"
or bigger wheels).
As an alternative we are looking into making a 6" wheel which would fit the
Vans axle and keep the standard brakes. This would be done by Andy Phillips
of Andair Gascolators and Fuel Valves. Would this be of any use to you
listers as we would need some interest to make the cost reasonable.
Regards
Ian Belmore
RV6 G-RVIB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Begnaud" <shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Larger Tires and Wheels |
Ian,
This is something that interests me. I am building a RV-9A and would like to
fly to some mountain strips in Idaho. It would really be helpful to have
larger tires.
However, I'm a long way from being ready to buy them as I just started
building the tail kit.
Do you have any idea how much they would cost? How about wheel pants to fit
larger tires, any ideas on this?
Regards,
Cliff
>
> Here in the UK we suffer from very wet winters which makes a lot of our
> grass strips unuseable for up to 6 months. We have tried 6" tires on the
> Vans standard 5" rims but they are not big enough. Most 6" wheels have a
> larger axle which could be sleeved but a new brake set would be expensive.
> Has anyone have any success fitting larger wheels to the RV and managed to
> keep the standard brakes (Ballon tires seem to only be available for the
6"
> or bigger wheels).
>
> As an alternative we are looking into making a 6" wheel which would fit
the
> Vans axle and keep the standard brakes. This would be done by Andy
Phillips
> of Andair Gascolators and Fuel Valves. Would this be of any use to you
> listers as we would need some interest to make the cost reasonable.
>
> Regards
> Ian Belmore
> RV6 G-RVIB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ian Belmore" <ian.belmore(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Larger Tires and Wheels |
I think the 5" wheel has a 1.25 inch axle and the 6" has a 1.50 inch axle
but the brake disc and caliper mount would be a problem as they are
different making the wheels difficult to swap.
From the cleveland datasheet the 6" wheel is approx an inch wider than the
5" and the sleeve would have to cover roughly an inch of thread and leave
very little for the wheel nut.
The aim would be to fly the winter without wheel pants when the bigger tires
are fitted.
Has anybody done this who can explain the pitfalls ?
Regards
Ian Belmore
RV6 G-RVIB
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
> To: ; Ian Belmore
> Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2000 7:12 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Larger Tires and Wheels
>
>
> >
> > If you really want larger tires, have you thought of simply shimming out
> > the axil to 1.25 inches and using standard Cleavland W & B ?. Once
> > converted, you needn't worry about odd-ball tires & tubes and if the
> sleeve
> > is made removeable you can swap back to the 5 inch Cleavlands and go
> > faster/////
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Ian Belmore" (at)matronics.com on 10/19/2000
> 12:15:15
> > PM
> >
> > Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to "Ian Belmore"
> >
> >
> > Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >
> >
> > To: "RV List"
> > cc:
> >
> > Subject: RV-List: Larger Tires and Wheels
> >
> >
> >
> > Here in the UK we suffer from very wet winters which makes a lot of our
> > grass strips unuseable for up to 6 months. We have tried 6" tires on
the
> > Vans standard 5" rims but they are not big enough. Most 6" wheels have
a
> > larger axle which could be sleeved but a new brake set would be
expensive.
> > Has anyone have any success fitting larger wheels to the RV and managed
to
> > keep the standard brakes (Ballon tires seem to only be available for the
> 6"
> > or bigger wheels).
> >
> > As an alternative we are looking into making a 6" wheel which would fit
> the
> > Vans axle and keep the standard brakes. This would be done by Andy
> > Phillips
> > of Andair Gascolators and Fuel Valves. Would this be of any use to you
> > listers as we would need some interest to make the cost reasonable.
> >
> > Regards
> > Ian Belmore
> > RV6 G-RVIB
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Larger Tires and Wheels |
10/19/2000 02:11:10 PM
If you really want larger tires, have you thought of simply shimming out
the axil to 1.25 inches and using standard Cleavland W & B ?. Once
converted, you needn't worry about odd-ball tires & tubes and if the sleeve
is made removeable you can swap back to the 5 inch Cleavlands and go
faster/////
"Ian Belmore" (at)matronics.com on 10/19/2000 12:15:15
PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to "Ian Belmore"
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Larger Tires and Wheels
Here in the UK we suffer from very wet winters which makes a lot of our
grass strips unuseable for up to 6 months. We have tried 6" tires on the
Vans standard 5" rims but they are not big enough. Most 6" wheels have a
larger axle which could be sleeved but a new brake set would be expensive.
Has anyone have any success fitting larger wheels to the RV and managed to
keep the standard brakes (Ballon tires seem to only be available for the 6"
or bigger wheels).
As an alternative we are looking into making a 6" wheel which would fit the
Vans axle and keep the standard brakes. This would be done by Andy
Phillips
of Andair Gascolators and Fuel Valves. Would this be of any use to you
listers as we would need some interest to make the cost reasonable.
Regards
Ian Belmore
RV6 G-RVIB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ian Belmore" <ian.belmore(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Larger Tires and Wheels |
Cliff
Not sure of cost yet but probably in the region of $500.
We would fly pant-lesss in the winter but I'm sure ACS would have something
to fit.
Regards
Ian Belmore
RV6 G-RVIB
----- Original Message -----
From: Cliff Begnaud <shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2000 6:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Larger Tires and Wheels
>
>
> Ian,
> This is something that interests me. I am building a RV-9A and would like
to
> fly to some mountain strips in Idaho. It would really be helpful to have
> larger tires.
> However, I'm a long way from being ready to buy them as I just started
> building the tail kit.
> Do you have any idea how much they would cost? How about wheel pants to
fit
> larger tires, any ideas on this?
>
> Regards,
> Cliff
>
> >
> > Here in the UK we suffer from very wet winters which makes a lot of our
> > grass strips unuseable for up to 6 months. We have tried 6" tires on
the
> > Vans standard 5" rims but they are not big enough. Most 6" wheels have
a
> > larger axle which could be sleeved but a new brake set would be
expensive.
> > Has anyone have any success fitting larger wheels to the RV and managed
to
> > keep the standard brakes (Ballon tires seem to only be available for the
> 6"
> > or bigger wheels).
> >
> > As an alternative we are looking into making a 6" wheel which would fit
> the
> > Vans axle and keep the standard brakes. This would be done by Andy
> Phillips
> > of Andair Gascolators and Fuel Valves. Would this be of any use to you
> > listers as we would need some interest to make the cost reasonable.
> >
> > Regards
> > Ian Belmore
> > RV6 G-RVIB
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: lycoming oil leak |
Got a real neat suggestion here for finding oil leaks. Get yourself a can
of dye penetrant developer. Not the whole kit but just the developer. When
you spray it it comes out as a wet spray but dries almost instantly into a
talcum like powder. Clean off the engine as best you can, then spray the
developer in the suspected area and run the engine. The oil will stain the
powder and lead you straight to the leak. The powder then wipes off with
almost no residue.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
It HAS its airworthiness certificate!!!
P.S. Is anybody else having a lot of their postings dropped before they make
the list????
>From: pcondon(at)csc.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, pcondon(at)csc.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, joe wiza
>Subject: Re: RV-List: lycoming oil leak
>Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 09:31:37 -0400 10/19/2000 09:29:24 AM
>
>
>Due to the wind pressures (prop blasts) from the prop and the odd pressure
>gradients from the baffle and cowl area , oil leaks are almost NEVER where
>you expect them to be. I once suspected my oil leak was being caused by
>the airplane next to mine because I couldn't find the source of the leak on
>my engine. Turned out to be a hairline crack in my filler tube.....go
>figure.......
>
>
>joe wiza (at)matronics.com on 10/18/2000 07:04:06 PM
>
>Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to joe wiza
>
>
>Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>cc:
>
>Subject: RV-List: lycoming oil leak
>
>
>When I first started my O360 I had what looked like
>oil coming out of the bottom of my case half. After a
>couple of frusterating days of worrying I found it was
>coming out of the cp prop seal and leaking down (very
>sneeky)
>
> Joe
>RV6A 110 hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Microair760 Intercom feature |
--- Don wrote:
>
> I am installing a Microair 760 com radio and was thinking of using
> it's
> built in intercom. Anyone with one install have feedback about the
> intercom
> feature of the radio?
Check the archives on this radio - wasn't long ago that we were digging
through old Kitplanes to find the issue in which this radio was
reviewed. IIRC it was December, 1999 or maybe '98 - but you'll want to
check.
Also if I recall, the reviewer (fellow by the name of Jim Wier) didn't
like the intercom part much but I don't remember why...
I'm running my M-760 through a separate intercom box to get stereo
input.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Microair760 Intercom feature |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>
>--- Don wrote:
>>
>> I am installing a Microair 760 com radio and was thinking of using
>> it's
>> built in intercom. Anyone with one install have feedback about the
>> intercom
>> feature of the radio?
>
>
>Check the archives on this radio - wasn't long ago that we were digging
>through old Kitplanes to find the issue in which this radio was
>reviewed. IIRC it was December, 1999 or maybe '98 - but you'll want to
>check.
For a link to Jim Wier's article see:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/avionics/760vhf.html
>Also if I recall, the reviewer (fellow by the name of Jim Wier) didn't
>like the intercom part much but I don't remember why...
It's a "hot mic" intercom. When the intercom feature is
being used, the microphone background audio is not squelched
when no one is speaking. Depending on how well the noise canceling
works on your headsets, this may or may not be a problem. I'm
using the least expensive Telex headsets I could find and
just as an experiement, I opened the squelch on my Sigtronics
intercom on a cross country flight a few months ago. It was
'different' but after awhile, I didn't find it objectionable
and it was nice not to get the first sylable clipping that
tended to creep into converstations as people's microphones
got too far from their face.
>I'm running my M-760 through a separate intercom box to get stereo
>input.
The 760VHF Microair is compatable with the contemporary
bevy of intercomm systems so if you're contemplating this
radio, try it first without a separate i.c. system. It's
not hard to add later and you may find that your situation
doesn't call for it.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different from )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Eustace on TV |
I saw it also. Had no idea it was someone on the list.
Earl
Mike Nellis wrote:
>
>
> Hey Eustace, I just saw your Float equiped Rv on Speedvision.
>
> Cool takeoff. How much distance does it take in average water condition?
>
> Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
> Plainfield, IL
> http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Microair760 Intercom feature |
The newer 760SL is described as
"in-built 2 place VOX intercom with pilot isolate and aux input
(self-muting)"
on their website. Is this different/better than the existing 760 model?
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert L.
> Nuckolls, III
> Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2000 6:55 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; Mike Thompson
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Microair760 Intercom feature
>
>
>
>
> >
> >
> >--- Don wrote:
> >>
> >> I am installing a Microair 760 com radio and was thinking of using
> >> it's
> >> built in intercom. Anyone with one install have feedback about the
> >> intercom
> >> feature of the radio?
> >
> >
> >Check the archives on this radio - wasn't long ago that we were digging
> >through old Kitplanes to find the issue in which this radio was
> >reviewed. IIRC it was December, 1999 or maybe '98 - but you'll want to
> >check.
>
> For a link to Jim Wier's article see:
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/avionics/760vhf.html
>
> >Also if I recall, the reviewer (fellow by the name of Jim Wier) didn't
> >like the intercom part much but I don't remember why...
>
> It's a "hot mic" intercom. When the intercom feature is
> being used, the microphone background audio is not squelched
> when no one is speaking. Depending on how well the noise canceling
> works on your headsets, this may or may not be a problem. I'm
> using the least expensive Telex headsets I could find and
> just as an experiement, I opened the squelch on my Sigtronics
> intercom on a cross country flight a few months ago. It was
> 'different' but after awhile, I didn't find it objectionable
> and it was nice not to get the first sylable clipping that
> tended to creep into converstations as people's microphones
> got too far from their face.
>
> >I'm running my M-760 through a separate intercom box to get stereo
> >input.
>
> The 760VHF Microair is compatable with the contemporary
> bevy of intercomm systems so if you're contemplating this
> radio, try it first without a separate i.c. system. It's
> not hard to add later and you may find that your situation
> doesn't call for it.
>
>
> Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Microair760 Intercom feature |
They do work but we like having a second button to talk on the open mike
intercom on a as needed
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Good wiring practice |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>Do you have any views about locating starter and battery contactors on the
>cabin side of the firewall? Some RV builders are doing or considering this.
>However the counter argument is that if one fails it would dump toxic smoke
>into the cockpit.
The more compelling reason for putting starter contactor
on firewall is to reduce number of firewall penetrations
of FAT wires . . . you tie the alternator into the system
using in-line fused jumper on the powered side of the battery
contactor (as per diagrams on website and in book). If
you put contactor inside, both starter and alternator wires
have to come through firewall.
>I guess you will have a good view on failure rates, and will know for sure
>whether it's possible for them to create toxic fumes.
>
A whole lot of decisions have been driven by the
toxic fumes scenario in a machine where one is
several orders of magntitude more likely to break
a sweat because of failure of of some appliances due
to poor system architecture and lack of backups.
It's sweating pilots that are more likely to make
poor decisions or find themselves tasked beyond
skills and equipment . . . if you don't smoke in
the cockpit, don't upholster your seats in
double-knit nylon material and use plenty of fuses
to protect little wires, the liklihood of serious
smoke is very close to zero.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different from )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Microair760 Intercom feature |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>The newer 760SL is described as
>
>"in-built 2 place VOX intercom with pilot isolate and aux input
>(self-muting)"
>
>on their website. Is this different/better than the existing 760 model?
>
>Larry Bowen
>RV-8 fuse
>Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>Web: http://BowenAero.com
Yes . . . when you ad the term VOX to description of the
intercom, it adds the clasic audio squelch feature.
There are some other enhancements to this radio but
I've not seen the technical details yet. My importer
has them on order. They'll be about $250 more expensive.
I'm not sure I perceive that kind of "value" yet . . .
we shall see. . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different from )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | LW LE and tank joint |
"Craig Paulson" <cpaulson@paulson-training.com>
Somehow, the fit on my left wing tank got messed up. The problem is at the
joint where the LE and tank meet. I thought I had the tank skin pulled down
perfectly, but after taking it off the wing, deburring, etc and putting it
back on, I have about a 1/16" vertical difference between the LE and tank
(tank is higher). See picture here:
http://home.earthlink.net/~ctpaulson/images/rv10-19/lw-le.htm
The top picture is taken from the tip of the LW looking down the bottom of
the wing. The gap in the picture looks bigger than it actually is. I
measured a maximum of 1/16" vertical difference. The bottom picture is taken
looking down the leading edge (the wing bottom is where the cleco is). The
horizontal gap is smaller than shown here (about 1/32" with the tank snugged
into place). I know I have a cosmetic issue, but do I have a
structural/aerodynamic issue as well? Any way to make it prettier?
Craig Paulson
rv-6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Off Topic-Air Race |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
Listers:
There has been some discussion on the list lately as to the relative
performance of various RV configurations. Next weekend there will be a
chance to do real-life comparisons. There will also be a chance to
compare things like a 150 hp 2 seat RV versus a stock 600 hp 2 seat AT-6.
The Pecos Valley Air Races are Saturday October 28, 2000 with the pilot
meeting at 10:00 AM and the race beginning at 11:00 AM at Artesia
Municipal Airport (ATS), south of Roswell, NM. There are four classes
starting at below 200 cu in displacement and the highest class being over
400 cu in.
The course is a triangle of 100.42 statute miles starting and ending at
ATS. The starts will be one airplane at a time, with the fastest
launching first, so there should be little or no passing. Turnpoints are
Lake Avalon Dam, 32 degrees 29.57 minutes, 104 degrees 15.19 minutes and
intersection of County Road 22 & Highway 249, 33 degrees 2.99 minutes,
103 degrees 59.13 minutes.
There will be eats and Young Eagles Friday evening and eats and paper
airplanes and awards Saturday midday. Bring your own tiedowns.
After a summer of just about no clouds, I have been weathered out of
Copperstate and probably Abilene. I've got mushrooms growing next to the
driveway. With all the weather we are having now, it will surely be nice
for this final fly-in of the season. For details please call Tom or Lyn
Benedict at 505-748-3206.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
Hmmmm. I wonder whether Brian Denk's RV-8 O-360, 72FM8 Sensenich or
Larry Pardue's RV-6 O-360, 72FM8 Sensenich is faster???? If we get a
good RV turnout I will post results to the list with the various
configurations.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | New Power Distribution Diagram |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
I've had several requests over the past few weeks to incorporate
separate concepts described with individual articles into a power
distribution diagram illustrating their relationships to the whole
airplane.
See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/errata/errata.html
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different from )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Air Race Phone Correction |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
Listers:
Sorry, I gave the ATS airport number for Pecos Valley Air Race info. It
should be Tom or Lyn Benedict at 505-622-3458. The airport number should
work also though.
Larry Pardue
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Winters <dwinters(at)acraline.com> |
"'Craig Paulson'"@matronics.com
| Subject: | LW LE and tank joint |
Do you know which part is not put together correctly (the tank or the wing)?
My first guess is to put shims under the tank to make it match the leading
edge of the wing. I'm not this far into my wings yet, so there are probably
better ideas on the way....
Don
Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: Craig Paulson [mailto:cpaulson@paulson-training.com]
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2000 9:22 AM
Subject: RV-List: LW LE and tank joint
<cpaulson@paulson-training.com>
Somehow, the fit on my left wing tank got messed up. The problem is at the
joint where the LE and tank meet. I thought I had the tank skin pulled down
perfectly, but after taking it off the wing, deburring, etc and putting it
back on, I have about a 1/16" vertical difference between the LE and tank
(tank is higher). See picture here:
http://home.earthlink.net/~ctpaulson/images/rv10-19/lw-le.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Sheppard" <jtshepp(at)lvnworth.com> |
| Subject: | LW LE and tank joint |
Craig,
Check the simple things first. Are there any obstructions with the tank
fitting true to the spar on the inboard end? Are the "Z" bars true to both
the spar and tank baffle? Does the situation improve if you reinstall the
straps to pull down the tank's leading edge? Is the spar still true - did
you change any mid span support? Was the tank skin clecoed to the spar in
your photos?
It'll be difficult to "hide" 1/16" along the joint. If the "simple" doesn't
work the alternative will be both disappointing and expensive - probably new
skin and ribs. Best of luck!
John Sheppard (RV8 fuse)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Off Topic-Air Race |
Larry wrote:
Hmmmm. I wonder whether Brian Denk's RV-8 O-360, 72FM8 Sensenich or
Larry Pardue's RV-6 O-360, 72FM8 Sensenich is faster???? If we get a
good RV turnout I will post results to the list with the various
configurations.
Larry,
I'd be interested in knowing that. If I remember correctly, you both have 83"
pitch props. During a short race like you going to do, staying low is the best
bet, but then you overspeed the prop.
I had this same experience last week racing with Paul Rosales in his RV-6a. (You
can see a pic of Paul's RV in some of Ed Hicks pictures from Homecoming on Van's
site. His is the RV with the wild, and pretty, green/white paint job.) He
was competing in the Copperstate dash, (I forgot to ask what the final speed
was, but we were burning a little over 15ghp to do it) and I was flying on his
wing the whole way out. We had a good chance to compare our airplanes speeds.
Paul was firewalled at some particular RPM, and I matched that RPM and speed,
but was doing it a 3" less manifold pressure. When I firewalled mine I was
about 4 kts faster in relative gps ground speed (but I really wasn't happy with
the RPM that was being turned). We both have new O-360's and 83" Sensenich props.
Both airplanes are built to high standards ;-) read straight, and are very
similar. I was lighter than he was, but that isn't that much of a factor in
straight and level flight.
They are both very stock late model RVs, with the PR wheel pants and the same number
of external antennae. The only differences I can see, besides the obvious
nose gear sticking out of the cowl on his, is that he has 2 boarding steps,
mine none, and a couple of little things like he has the 3 light strobe package
hanging out in the breeze, while mine has the single strobe lens that is tucked
in on a special mounting plate to limit frontal area, he had a rear tiedown
ring exposed, and the slider canopy had a squared off front on the handle,
and a handle on the back to help lift the canopy.
The only reason I mention this is that it looks like all these little things can
add up to a lot, but I wonder if there isn't some other issues involved.
I wonder if there is much difference in the props themselves? Could the engines
be putting out different power? Is the nose gear the main source of the drag.
(His is a clean faired gear, while mine is a dirrrty little wheel sticking
out in the breeze. It can't be THAT much different).
I don't thing we can know for sure.
I sure wish I could get out there with you guys in NM to get another data point,
but I have tickets to the CART finale at Fontana, and have been looking forward
to that for a while (particulary after the Surfers Pardise race).
Good luck and be safe,
Laird (ex karting racer) Owens RV-6, N515L, 120 hrs
O-360, Sensenich (83)
Simi Valley, SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
"'Robert L. Nuckolls, III'"
| Subject: | VR 166 Voltage Regulator |
Bob,
I purchased a VR166 Ford regulator as you have suggested ( it is
actually a Borg Warner equivalent). I have two questions:
1. Is it temperature compensated as described in the "Connection"? If
not, do you have a part number for one that is?
2. How is it wired into the electrical system? It has terminals
labeled: F, S, I, A.
Thanks.
Ken Harrill
RV-6, firewall stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Off Topic-Air Race |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Larry wrote:
>
>Hmmmm. I wonder whether Brian Denk's RV-8 O-360, 72FM8 Sensenich or
>Larry Pardue's RV-6 O-360, 72FM8 Sensenich is faster???? If we get a
>good RV turnout I will post results to the list with the various
>configurations.
>
>Larry,
>I'd be interested in knowing that. If I remember correctly, you both
>have 83" pitch props. During a short race like you going to do, staying
>low is the best bet, but then you overspeed the prop.
>
That's the dilemma. There is a lot of speed to be had between 2700 RPM
and full throttle. I have been thinking about what to do for months but
have not yet decided.
Yes, Brian and I both have 83" props. I can't speak for Brian, a fellow
that has three latches on his oil door, but my RV is not detailed very
well, especially in canopy fit, which makes it all the more amazing just
how fast the thing is.
The entry form for the race has you estimate your speed. Difficult,
especially in light of ignorance as to what the wind will be. The higher
the wind, the lower the speed around a triangle. Taking into account the
standing start and the finish at 500' over the airport, I think I
estimated 198 MPH (hope I don't have to eat those words). Airport
elevation is about 3,500.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
All--
The November 2000 issue of Light Plane Maintenance has a review article
of the -320 series and the changes it went thru over the years and
highlights certain trouble areas that the engine is known for and how to
fix/prevent them. It also has a separate sidebar on the the -2AHD. It
has a list of AD's for the -320 and a separate section of ADs/SBs & SIs
for the -2AHD.
This is an excellent magazine and IMHO every homebuilder/EAA chapter,
etc. should have a
subscription. It has a wealth of info that's just almost impossible to
find elsewhere, bundled together in nice concise articles. It's a
sister publication to Aviation Safety and Aviation Consumer.
PO Box 420234
Palm Coast, FL 32142
800.829.9085
Boyd
RV-S6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | RV6 Aileron mount bracket procedures |
I've just finished riveting my rear spar on the main ribs and getting ready
to mount them in the jigs. In looking over the plans for the inboard
aileron mount bracket 413 on Drawing 16, I'm wondering how others have
verified the proper location (top to bottom) for the mount?
The plans call for 1 5/8" below the a line drawn through the tooling holes
in the main ribs. How have other's measured this distance?
Thanks,
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
Listers can someone provide me with the e-mail address
of the site for the 8 POH that was listed yesterday?
Thanks in advance
Glenn Williams
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
****************************************************
> > Can anyone recommend a fuse size for the King KT76A?
Don Jordan -- 6A finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
*****************************************************
writes:
> Don,
The KT-76A requires a 2amp breaker
Vince Veltri
Thanks.
you must have had the book out for me.
Don Jordan -- 6A finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
*****************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>
>Listers can someone provide me with the e-mail address
>of the site for the 8 POH that was listed yesterday?
>Thanks in advance
> Glenn Williams
>
>
>====
>Glenn Williams
>8A
>A&P
Glenn,
Mike Robertson posted the URL to his POH. I'm editing it to suit my airplane
right now! Nicely Done, Mike.
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks.html
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
144 hrs.
>N81GW
>
>Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
thanks for the info got it downloaded
Glenn
--- Brian Denk wrote:
>
>
>
> >
> >
> >Listers can someone provide me with the e-mail
> address
> >of the site for the 8 POH that was listed
> yesterday?
> >Thanks in advance
> > Glenn Williams
> >
> >
> >====
> >Glenn Williams
> >8A
> >A&P
>
> Glenn,
>
> Mike Robertson posted the URL to his POH. I'm
> editing it to suit my airplane
> right now! Nicely Done, Mike.
>
> http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks.html
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> 144 hrs.
> >N81GW
> >
> >Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.
> >
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic-Air Race |
Laird,
Let's also look at the attributes of a constant speep prop.
Is it really worth the extra expense?
I would enjoy to be part of the analysis, I am in Dallas.
I have a 8A IO-360 & Hartzell & it would be an interesting comparison.
I thought I would be at SWRI this weekend, but the weather didn't cooperate.
If Brian hosts a event in NM, & the weather cooperates, I will be
there.....Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2000 12:46 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Off Topic-Air Race
>
>
> Larry wrote:
>
> Hmmmm. I wonder whether Brian Denk's RV-8 O-360, 72FM8 Sensenich or
> Larry Pardue's RV-6 O-360, 72FM8 Sensenich is faster???? If we get a
> good RV turnout I will post results to the list with the various
> configurations.
>
> Larry,
> I'd be interested in knowing that. If I remember correctly, you both
have 83" pitch props. During a short race like you going to do, staying low
is the best bet, but then you overspeed the prop.
>
> I had this same experience last week racing with Paul Rosales in his
RV-6a. (You can see a pic of Paul's RV in some of Ed Hicks pictures from
Homecoming on Van's site. His is the RV with the wild, and pretty,
green/white paint job.) He was competing in the Copperstate dash, (I forgot
to ask what the final speed was, but we were burning a little over 15ghp to
do it) and I was flying on his wing the whole way out. We had a good chance
to compare our airplanes speeds. Paul was firewalled at some particular
RPM, and I matched that RPM and speed, but was doing it a 3" less manifold
pressure. When I firewalled mine I was about 4 kts faster in relative gps
ground speed (but I really wasn't happy with the RPM that was being turned).
We both have new O-360's and 83" Sensenich props. Both airplanes are built
to high standards ;-) read straight, and are very similar. I was lighter
than he was, but that isn't that much of a factor in straight and level
flight.
>
> They are both very stock late model RVs, with the PR wheel pants and the
same number of external antennae. The only differences I can see, besides
the obvious nose gear sticking out of the cowl on his, is that he has 2
boarding steps, mine none, and a couple of little things like he has the 3
light strobe package hanging out in the breeze, while mine has the single
strobe lens that is tucked in on a special mounting plate to limit frontal
area, he had a rear tiedown ring exposed, and the slider canopy had a
squared off front on the handle, and a handle on the back to help lift the
canopy.
>
> The only reason I mention this is that it looks like all these little
things can add up to a lot, but I wonder if there isn't some other issues
involved.
>
> I wonder if there is much difference in the props themselves? Could the
engines be putting out different power? Is the nose gear the main source of
the drag. (His is a clean faired gear, while mine is a dirrrty little wheel
sticking out in the breeze. It can't be THAT much different).
>
> I don't thing we can know for sure.
>
> I sure wish I could get out there with you guys in NM to get another data
point, but I have tickets to the CART finale at Fontana, and have been
looking forward to that for a while (particulary after the Surfers Pardise
race).
>
> Good luck and be safe,
>
> Laird (ex karting racer) Owens RV-6, N515L, 120 hrs
> O-360, Sensenich (83)
> Simi Valley, SoCal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Hobenshield <edhob(at)kermode.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Eustace on TV |
>
>I saw it also. Had no idea it was someone on the list.
>Earl
>
>Mike Nellis wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hey Eustace, I just saw your Float equiped Rv on Speedvision.
>>
>> Cool takeoff. How much distance does it take in average water condition?
> >
> >==============
Hey guys, my first ride in a 6 was with Eustace. Why do you think I
fly an RV-6 ??
He had just converted back to wheels after the the float tests. That
man can FLY !!!
Those plastic airplanes can really go though, hey Mr. Eustace?
Ed H
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Aileron mount bracket procedures |
--- Mike Nellis wrote:
>
> I've just finished riveting my rear spar on the main ribs and getting
> ready
> to mount them in the jigs. In looking over the plans for the inboard
> aileron mount bracket 413 on Drawing 16, I'm wondering how others
> have
> verified the proper location (top to bottom) for the mount?
Forget the plans and measurements (well, not completely).
Attach your outboard mount on the outboard rib (after cutting the
excess rear spar away) then "mount" your aileron. Actually attach it
to the outboard mount and use the airfoil template to hold up the other
end.
Now you can attach the inboard mount to the aileron and determine
_exactly_ where it needs to go on the spar.
You can confirm with the plans that it is somewhere close... If you're
really good, it might be dead on!
I'm a big believer in using the parts to determine where other parts go
- like using the (pre-punched) skins to fine tune placement of the ribs
themselves.
YMMV
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Constant speed prop - worth it? |
>
> Let's also look at the attributes of a constant speep prop.
>
> Is it really worth the extra expense?
>
One could ask this question of the whole airplane! One shouldn't analyze
these types of things much; if you can afford and want it, get it. Nothing
about building and owning a plane is particularly rational, anyway, so
piling analysis on top of irrationality doesn't really make sense. I think
building and flying these projects is essentially an art form, so go for
whatever you can afford and want.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: LW LE and tank joint |
>
>Somehow, the fit on my left wing tank got messed up. The problem is at the
>joint where the LE and tank meet. I thought I had the tank skin pulled down
>perfectly, but after taking it off the wing, deburring, etc and putting it
>back on, I have about a 1/16" vertical difference between the LE and tank
>(tank is higher). See picture here:
>http://home.earthlink.net/~ctpaulson/images/rv10-19/lw-le.htm
>
>The top picture is taken from the tip of the LW looking down the bottom of
>the wing. The gap in the picture looks bigger than it actually is. I
>measured a maximum of 1/16" vertical difference. The bottom picture is taken
>looking down the leading edge (the wing bottom is where the cleco is). The
>horizontal gap is smaller than shown here (about 1/32" with the tank snugged
>into place). I know I have a cosmetic issue, but do I have a
>structural/aerodynamic issue as well? Any way to make it prettier?
>
>Craig Paulson
>rv-6a wings
>
Craig,
I doubt this will cause a significant aerodynamic effect, but you
won't know for sure until you fly. If you haven't done the second
tank yet you could try to get the same effect and tell people that it
was deliberate - the small step will trip a vortex that stops
spanwise flow at high angle of attack, improving stall
characteristics. This is probably pure BS on this aircraft, but
it'll fool most people :-)
As far as the structure goes, you will want to add shims to fill the
gap between the outboard edge of the tank and the piece of strip on
the inboard edge of the wing leading edge. You don't want to leave
any slop in those screws that attach the tank outboard edge to the
wing.
Are you sure the tank is firmly on the wing?
Good luck,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: LW LE and tank joint |
In a message dated 10/20/00 9:23:14 AM Central Daylight Time,
cpaulson@paulson-training.com writes:
<< Somehow, the fit on my left wing tank got messed up. The problem is at the
joint where the LE and tank meet. I thought I had the tank skin pulled down
perfectly, but after taking it off the wing, deburring, etc and putting it
back on, I have about a 1/16" vertical difference between the LE and tank
(tank is higher). See picture here:
http://home.earthlink.net/~ctpaulson/images/rv10-19/lw-le.htm >>
Craig,
If you haven't final drilled for the screws yet, strap the tank skin down
into position before final drilling for the screws.
I can see from your picture that the tank is not yet riveted. That means you
can still work with it. Find out what is hitting what and holding the tank
too high. Is the baffle coming in contact with the wing spar lip? If so
grind down the baffle a little bit.
If you pull it down tight and it causes the gap between the LE and and Tank
skins to be unequal, then its too high on the other end and you must
determine why and fix that.
Hope this helps.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VR 166 Voltage Regulator |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>Bob,
>
>I purchased a VR166 Ford regulator as you have suggested ( it is
>actually a Borg Warner equivalent). I have two questions:
>1. Is it temperature compensated as described in the "Connection"? If
>not, do you have a part number for one that is?
Don't know about that particular part. But it's not critical.
It should maintain your bus between 14.0 and 14.4 as
it comes from the box . . . perhaps a little higher in
cold weather.
>2. How is it wired into the electrical system? It has terminals
>labeled: F, S, I, A.
Do you have the book? Figure Z-2 shows the wiring. You can
download the wiring diagrams from the book at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/errata/R9Z_0400.pdf
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different from )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Good wiring practice - ERROR CORRECTION |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>>Do you have any views about locating starter and battery contactors on the
>>cabin side of the firewall? Some RV builders are doing or considering this.
>>However the counter argument is that if one fails it would dump toxic smoke
>>into the cockpit.
>
> The more compelling reason for putting starter contactor
> on firewall is to reduce number of firewall penetrations
> of FAT wires . . . you tie the alternator into the system
> using in-line fused jumper on the powered side of the STARTER [was
"battery"]
> contactor (as per diagrams on website and in book). If
> you put contactor inside, both starter and alternator wires
> have to come through firewall.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different from )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dane3(at)ATTGLOBAL.NET> |
| Subject: | Wirlwind Props ? |
Does anyone out there have any knowledge of Wirlwind
Props? They are claiming that they are lighter
smoother and will holdup. I talked to them on the
phone yesterday. They said, they are developing a
three bladed prop that should not slow down an RV yet
have the benefits of a three bladed prop in regards to
climb, noise and smoothness.
Dane Sheahen
RV8a (fuel lines)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Seatback question... |
I'm installing the rear seatback in my RV-8 and question whether or not the
shoulder harnesses should pass through the fiberglass seat back, or does the
fiberglass get cut down so the belts go over the top of the seatback.
Randy Lervold, if you're there, you'll know what I mean - looks like you
deviated from the plans and cut the fiberglass down. That seems to be a
good idea, so the belts don't interfere with getting into the baggage area.
Thanks for your thoughts,
- Bill in Tucson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> |
| Subject: | LW LE and tank joint |
Craig,
I'm not completely happy with the joint on mine either. I looked at lots of
planes at OSH and Copperstate this summer and can tell you that they run the
range from perfect to worse than yours. Make sure your spar is supported
and not drooping or too high in the middle (can cause a gap to develop in
the joint), and then pull that thing back down with the straps. Now screw
it in and see if the fit is any better. A bit of massaging does help.
Good luck
Russ Werner
Maui
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Seatback question... |
Hi Bill
I cut mine back and left about 1" lip. The belts go over the top of the
fiberglass now. It seemed like the quickest/neatest way to do it.
Rob Miller
Finishing 80153
--- Bill Ludwig wrote:
>
> I'm installing the rear seatback in my RV-8 and question whether or not
> the
> shoulder harnesses should pass through the fiberglass seat back, or does
> the
> fiberglass get cut down so the belts go over the top of the seatback.
>
> Randy Lervold, if you're there, you'll know what I mean - looks like you
> deviated from the plans and cut the fiberglass down. That seems to be a
> good idea, so the belts don't interfere with getting into the baggage
> area.
>
> Thanks for your thoughts,
>
> - Bill in Tucson
>
Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Safety-Crew Member |
This is in reply to Marty's query on using a "crew member" for the first
flight of your RV and check out on type. This subject came up here some
years ago when the first RV's were completed in this area. The safest way to
begin flying a new type of aircraft (and I feel the only way) is to get a
proper check out on it before going solo. The first flight on an aircraft
whether it be certified or homebuilt should be done by someone who is
competely familiar with the flight characteristics of it and is not
preoccupied with the challenge of learning to fly it while possibly trying
to cope with some type of malfunction.
The problem in the beginning was the availability of an RV and a qualified
person to do a check out. A big step in solving this problem was Van's
contribution of a RV 6 and Mike as check pilot, however with the large
number of RV's coming on stream it is virtually impossible for Mike to get
to everybody when you consider that a proper check out can take up to ten
hours depending on the persons background and past flying experience.
The common sense solution seemed to be, have a qualified person check the
owner out on his own aircraft. Realizing that after all the time spent
building his or her aircraft most would want to be on board for the first
flight, the decision on how this would be handled should be left up to the
check pilot and builder. With the cooperation of our local Transport Canada
office this has worked very well.
The big advantages to this approach is that it is cost effective, gets the
owner completely familiar with his own aircraft and cleans up any snags that
show up as well as assuring that the aircraft flys and performs as it was
designed to do.
The qualified person should be someone with some years of flying experience
on several types and who is completely familiar with the flight
characteristics of the aircraft as well as someone who puts safety first.
This is exactly what Mike is doing the only difference being Van is
supplying the aircraft.
At this point in time we can hardly call the RV series of aircraft
experimental aircraft with hundreds of thousands of hours of flight time
already logged. In my opinion if they are built to plans and have been
properly inspected the first flight is really no different than the first
flight after an annual inspection.
In Canada you don't have to be a flight instructor to check another licensed
pilot out on an aircraft that you are qualified to fly.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B. C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
This is the procedure that I use when I go flying in my RV and is based on
the fact that certain items such as engine starting are routine and are not
included in my check list. Also that the aircraft was flying normally and
was snag free on the last flight. A first flight of course would be handled
entirely different.
I do my preflight (walk around) starting at the right hand fuel cap, remove
it and visually check the fuel level, then drain some fuel from the RH drain
with a clear sight fuel tester checking for water and any particles, then
check the oil level and as much as can be seen through the oil door. Check
belly and fuel tanks for any signs of oil or fuel leaks. Then the front
hinge pins and prop, then with the fuel selector valve on drain some fuel
from the gascolator ( with it mounted in the wing root do not need the boost
pump) and the LH tank drain, remove the LH fuel cap and visually check fuel
level, then remove pitot tube cover, and then all flight control surfaces
and attachments including flaps. Visually check tires for pressure.
Start engine and warm to 100 degrees min on oil temp. check mags at 1700 RPM
and exercise prop one time, my formal check list starts here I call it
"Vital Actions" because missing one of them could get you into trouble. It
is one we used in the air force and I have used it since getting out of the
air force in 1945 and have not seen one that improves on it and have it
memorized.
H Is for hydraulics (brakes)
T Is for trims (set) tensions (tension nut on
throttle or quadrant)
M Mixture (full rich or as required in the case of a
high altitude take-off)
P Pitch (Full fine for take-off)
Carb Heat Check for drop in rpm then full cold for take-off
Fuel Drains and sumps checked, quantity and caps and
pressure
Flaps Normally up for take-off or as required, check
operation
Switches As required (strobe lights ?), boost pump, avionics, GPS
Gyros Set directional gyro, check vacuum (altimeter could be
set here)
Harness Seat belts and shoulder harness
Hatches Canopy closed and locked
Controls Free
My landing check is simply GUMP
Gas Quantity and boost pump
Undercarriage In the case of the RV down and welded
M Mixture full rich
P Pitch full fine (normally I will leave in my
cruise setting but one must be sure on a
balked landing to get everything forward)
On the subject of balked landings for those of you who have done it with
full flap will remember that things get interesting in a hurry, exceeding
max. flap speed, heavy nose down tendency, I can see how this could become a
real challenge for the inexperienced on a short strip especially if there
are any obstructions to climb over.
Please feel free to contact me on or off the list with any comments, maybe
we can even improve on it.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay B.C.
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bowen <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Date: Thursday, October 12, 2000 8:05 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Safety
>
>Can you share your checklist?
>
>Larry Bowen
>RV-8 fuse
>Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>Web: http://BowenAero.com
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Eustace Bowhay
>> Subject: RV-List: Safety
>>
>[snip]
>>
>> I made up a
>> check list for him using the check list I have used all my life for light
>> piston engine aircraft and taped it to the panel right in front
>> of the left
>> seat.
>
>[snip]
>
>> Probably the most important safety benefit for Bill was learning how
>> important it is to have a proper check list and using it all the time
>> coupled with good engine handling. Engine abuse whether it be
>> intentional or
>> not is not being fair to family or passengers.
>>
>> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 Seatback question... |
Actually every RV-8 I've seen, including all three of the factory planes,
have the top cut down so that the belts do not need to go through it. The
only way mine is any different is that I left a "tab" at the top to attach a
little headrest. It can be seen at...
http://www.rv-8.com/pgInterior.htm
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, sanding, priming, painting, and more sanding
www.rv-8.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Ludwig
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2000 9:03 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Seatback question...
I'm installing the rear seatback in my RV-8 and question whether or not the
shoulder harnesses should pass through the fiberglass seat back, or does the
fiberglass get cut down so the belts go over the top of the seatback.
Randy Lervold, if you're there, you'll know what I mean - looks like you
deviated from the plans and cut the fiberglass down. That seems to be a
good idea, so the belts don't interfere with getting into the baggage area.
Thanks for your thoughts,
- Bill in Tucson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "edperry64" <edperry64(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | platenuts in the floor |
OK ...how are you guys attaching the platenuts on the floor. Dimpling was a
nightmare and I can't see how or what tools I should be using to do this
job. My squeezer wont fit.
Thanks,
Ed Perry
RV-8QB 180/cs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Judd <sjudd(at)ffd2.com> |
Hi Eustace,
I feel thoroughly unworthy to follow up one of your posts, but I suggest
adding one thing to the preflight, that a local old-timer clued me in on:
the Big Picture. That is, after doing the walkaround and visual
inspection, to just stand back a ways, in front of the airplane, and look
at the big picture -- make sure everything is straight, no stepladders or
flight bags are laying on the ground, wheel chocks and tiedowns are
removed, etc.
I also use this when building the RV (e.g. before driving rivets).
In both cases, it has saved me many times.
humbly,
-Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ai Ginn" <ginnwj(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Empennage - Rivet Hole Edge Distance HS-404 |
Hello,
Has anyone had a problem with the edge distance for the rivet that holds the
skin to the flange of the rib HS-404 near HS-614? If so would you drop me a
line and let me know how you rectified the situation. I only have one hole
distance on one side and zero on the other with the rib flush with the edge
of the skin.
Thanks Bill, Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Kellar" <rjkellar(at)softcom.net> |
To the 6 and 6A builders. How many washers did you typically need on the
large NAS bolts at the center section? I intially used two but felt the
shoulder of the bolt seated before the head had full tension. I replaced
the two with three and still have 1 and 1/2 threads showing and now the
bolts come into tension much better. Also what torque measurements are to
be used on the larger bolts? Is there anywhere in the plans that a full
call out for the wing spar bolts is listed? I've searched high and low
without success. On the landing gear mounts many of the bolts will have to
be placed from the rear of the spar. Is this the accepted method of placing
these? Thanks in advance.
Robert Kellar (Putting the wings on at the airport after 10 1/2 years!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: platenuts in the floor |
Ed,
I ordered some of the AD3 rivets from Van's that have the small heads and
used them. I think they are called "oops rivets" You can countersink with
your debur tool...doesn't take much of a countersink.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage (trying to figure the best way to paint the interior)
----- Original Message -----
From: edperry64 <edperry64(at)netzero.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2000 5:22 PM
Subject: RV-List: platenuts in the floor
>
> OK ...how are you guys attaching the platenuts on the floor. Dimpling was
a
> nightmare and I can't see how or what tools I should be using to do this
> job. My squeezer wont fit.
>
> Thanks,
> Ed Perry
> RV-8QB 180/cs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Constant speed prop - worth it? |
If I may comment on the constant speed prop question. My newly purchased
RV-4 has a C/S prop and an 0-360. My friend Tom has a 180 hp RV-6 with a
Sensenich metal fixed pitch prop. Now granted the RV-4 may be just a little
faster than an RV-6, but I do know Tom's RV-6 is a particular fast example.
Today we were flying side-by-side, both with the same IAS of 180 mph. He
was turning 2500 rpm and 24" MP. I was at 21" and 2350 rpm. Same speed in
the RV-4 for considerably less power. I made today's trip of 224 nm at this
speed (around 5000' msl most of the time) for an average of 7.8 gph!!!
Plus it takes off like a dragster and climbs like an F-16!!
But the excitement does come at a price!
Doug Weiler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Constant speed prop - worth it? |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2000 9:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Constant speed prop - worth it?
>
> If I may comment on the constant speed prop question. My newly purchased
> RV-4 has a C/S prop and an 0-360. My friend Tom has a 180 hp RV-6 with a
> Sensenich metal fixed pitch prop. Now granted the RV-4 may be just a
little
> faster than an RV-6, but I do know Tom's RV-6 is a particular fast
example.
> Today we were flying side-by-side, both with the same IAS of 180 mph. He
> was turning 2500 rpm and 24" MP. I was at 21" and 2350 rpm. Same speed
in
> the RV-4 for considerably less power. I made today's trip of 224 nm at
this
> speed (around 5000' msl most of the time) for an average of 7.8 gph!!!
>
> Plus it takes off like a dragster and climbs like an F-16!!
>
> But the excitement does come at a price!
>
>
> Doug Weiler
Doug, This makes no sense. You are saying that the Sensenich was running
at
over 75% while you were at less than 65%. I have flown my RV6 with both
props
and found no difference in speed for a given amount of power.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: platenuts in the floor |
Just countersink 'em, Ed. That aluminum angle is plenty thick.
- Bill in Tucson
8QB, starting on panel
-----Original Message-----
From: edperry64 <edperry64(at)netzero.net>
Date: Saturday, October 21, 2000 3:36 PM
Subject: RV-List: platenuts in the floor
>
>OK ...how are you guys attaching the platenuts on the floor. Dimpling was a
>nightmare and I can't see how or what tools I should be using to do this
>job. My squeezer wont fit.
>
>Thanks,
>Ed Perry
>RV-8QB 180/cs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: platenuts in the floor |
> OK ...how are you guys attaching the platenuts on the floor. Dimpling was
a
> nightmare and I can't see how or what tools I should be using to do this
> job. My squeezer wont fit.
I dimpled mine in the C-frame tool from Avery.............Norman.........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | meketa <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: platenuts in the floor |
Hello Yall,
I know how you feel. The Quick Build flooring leaves no way to get into
many areas to drill, countersink, dimple or rivet. I installed all the
baggage areas, front removable floor area, side covers etc. with
countersunk screws and nutplates. After all this I had no intention of
making the rear\passenger flooring removable.
You do want to countersink the floor nutplate mounting rivets. I believe
most, if not all were into thicker material. The small headed oops
rivets many have suggested are the way to go here. Buy a kit from Avery.
I install almost all my nutplates with oops rivets. On thinner material
you can countersink the material and lightly countersink the nutplate to
install the oops rivets. The mounting holes for a oops rivet
can be easily countersunk by hand.
When no room is available for a nut plate jig use a tapped out nut plate
installed backwards with a screw for a drill guide.
You will also need some single lug nut plates for many of the corners. I
bought 25 and had to buy more. Only two came with the kit. I used at
least a dozen just for the front floor area. In a pinch an ear can be
cut off a double and leave only one rivet holding it.
On countersinking in tight areas I made a small, 1" long handle and
installed a debur bit into it. I can get it into very tight areas to
debur and countersink by spinning it between my fingers. I also
frequently put a debur bit in my right angle drill to debur and
countersink in areas that are hard to get into.
When riviting the nutplates on the Quick Built front floors, I found
many next to the outer skins were IMPOSSIBLE to reach with a rivet gun,
hand squeezer or pneumatic C-squeezer. I bought a used A-squeeze just to
get these few. I found that the rear baggage compartment nutplates on
the longerons would have been near impossible with anything else. I do
not use it too often, but sure love it when it is needed. Maybe you can
borrow one for the few really tight ones.
Hope this helps.
George Meketa
RV-8 QB IO360\CS Mounted the cowling tonight, ready to paint
the interior and looking forward to the
canopy.
dperry64 wrote:
>
>
> OK ...how are you guys attaching the platenuts on the floor. Dimpling was a
> nightmare and I can't see how or what tools I should be using to do this
> job. My squeezer wont fit.
>
> Thanks,
> Ed Perry
> RV-8QB 180/cs
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Alternator noise solved |
Greetings listers,
After dealing with alternator noise coming through the COM for the past
several months, I decided to do something about it. Rusty Duffy also has
been dealing with the noise in his COM. I originally installed a cap across
the alternator output, but this did not work. Rusty called the folks at VAL
(we both have the VAL 760 com) for advice. They recommended installing a
choke kit from Radio Shack, part number
270-030A, which costs about four bucks. It works! Absolutely no alternator
whine no matter where I have the headset and intercom volume knobs set.
It's a simple kit, with a small transformer and cap that is wired into the
power wire to the com. Simple, easy to install and does the job.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rywessel(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Grounded VS Ungrounded CHT/EGT probes |
Electronics International extols the virtues of ungrounded probes in their
instruments. They claim much better accuracy and response- is this true? Is
having 1 deg vs 10 deg resolution going to make a difference in an instrument
like this? What is the difference between an ungrounded vs grounded probe?
Additionally:
I am having a hard time choosing an engine monitor. What do rv'ers prefer,
the EIS or the RMI umonitor? I like the look and feel of the RMI unit but I
hear that because of the response rate, using a switch deck for the CHT/EGT
makes it hard to get good readings.
thanks,
robin wessel
RV-6a finishing
Tigard, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Engine Heaters vs. Primers |
I was reading Sky Ranches Enginneering Manual concerning the operation of
aircraft engines and two things caught my eye. 1) Priming should be kept
to a minimum and
2) Cold oil and uneven heating/cooling of the engine (mostly in regards to
baffling problems) can be very distructive
I also scanned the archives and found some posts where folks have found they
use their primers very little if at all.
Priming systems are very "parts intensive" with lots of tubes and small
fittings to deal with. The Reiff cylinder head and oil sump heaters
http://www.execpc.com/reiff/ seem very eaily installed.
I am buying a new O-360A1A from Vans and want to do all I can to keep it
happy. I am leaning towards not putting a priming system in and installing
Rieffs cylinder and oil sump heaters. With the complete system going for
$327 (1.5% of the engine cost) it seems like money well spent.
Any Comments?
Ross Mickey
6A 9PT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Grounded VS Ungrounded CHT/EGT probes |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>Electronics International extols the virtues of ungrounded probes in their
>instruments. They claim much better accuracy and response- is this true? Is
>having 1 deg vs 10 deg resolution going to make a difference in an
instrument
>like this? What is the difference between an ungrounded vs grounded probe?
There doesn't have to be a difference . . . I've designed laboratory
grade accuracy instrumentation for both types. It's a little more
difficult to make them work when "grounded" at the engine end so
EIS chose to shift complexity from the instrument end out to the
engine end on the probes. The lowest risk in terms of installation
problems will be with use of insulated probes at the engine end
irrespective of the kind of electronics used on the panel.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different from )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Heaters vs. Primers |
>>I was reading Sky Ranches Enginneering Manual concerning the operation of
>aircraft engines and two things caught my eye. 1) Priming should be kept
>to a minimum and
>2) Cold oil and uneven heating/cooling of the engine (mostly in regards to
>baffling problems) can be very distructive
>
>I also scanned the archives and found some posts where folks have found
>they
>use their primers very little if at all.
>
>Priming systems are very "parts intensive" with lots of tubes and small
>fittings to deal with. The Reiff cylinder head and oil sump heaters
>http://www.execpc.com/reiff/ seem very eaily installed.
>
>I am buying a new O-360A1A from Vans and want to do all I can to keep it
>happy. I am leaning towards not putting a priming system in and installing
>Rieffs cylinder and oil sump heaters. With the complete system going for
>$327 (1.5% of the engine cost) it seems like money well spent.
>
>Any Comments?
>
>Ross Mickey
>6A 9PT
The Sky Ranch manual is certainly one of the best manuals on the finer
details of aircraft piston engines out there. I have it and have learned a
lot from it, and in talking with John Schwaner over the phone. I still think
that we builders tend to obsess over all the possibilities, what-ifs, you
outtas, and this will happen if you don'ts.
So, this is what works for ME...(note emphasis)
I use a manual primer on all starts, which in my airplane feeds fuel to
three cylinders. The fourth cylinder has a manifold pressure line in the
primer port. My engine starts quickly with about three squirts of prime but
takes much longer to light off with no prime. There is a noticeable
difference for sure.
My engine preheater cost me a whopping $35. I bought a small electric
heater from Home Depot, attached a 5" HVAC duct flange to it, and connected
a length of heater hose. I tuck this up into the lower cowling and plug the
cooling air inlets with foam plugs. I keep the heater set on low and just
run it continuously throughout the winter. The entire engine compartment
stays warm and the engine starts up no problem. Of course, our winters here
in NM aren't terribly extreme..at least where I keep the airplane..but it
does get below freezing during the night. Of course, my heater setup won't
help while the airplane is away from home, since I don't carry the heater
along with me. The permanently installed Reiff system would permit
preheating any place that 110VAC is available.
Bottom line: Primer good. Use it if your engine likes it.
Preheat also good. Cold starts cause more engine wear
than many hours of continuous operation.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
O-360/180/Sensenich 83"
144 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Isspro Fuel Gauge Wiring |
My Isspro fuel gauges are not reading and I think the problem is a bad
connection to +12V. My helper is mystified by the three terminals on the
Isspro milliammeter: +, Ground and -.
I have wired it up: +12V -> + terminal on Isspro; - terminal on Isspro ->
Sender terminal on tank. I have checked and the sender is grounded to the
airframe.
Can anyone confirm that I don't use the ground terminal on the Isspro gauge?
Better yet, if someone could fax me the sheet that comes with the gauge I'd
appreciate it. 847 683 4153
By the way, do any of the other gauges that use the SW senders fit into the
hole size of the Isspros? I feel foolish having a VM1000 and these crummy
fuel gauges in the same panel!
Dennis Persyk 6A O360A1A/Hartzell 0.0 Hours
C38 Hampshire, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Master Relay |
From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
> Does any one know how to activate the ABC Spellcheck on my Outlook Express
While in you main inbox, go to "TOOLS" then "OPTIONS" then "SPELLING" and
check the box that says "ALWAYS CHECK SPELLING BEFORE SENDING" then "APPLY"
then "OK"
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Heaters vs. Primers |
Ross, I have the Rieff HotPadd oil sump heater on my RV-6 and no primer
system:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/cold.html
My plane is hangared in North Alabama, and while our winters don't treat
us with extreme cold for very long periods, starting 399SB at freezing
temps is something I do several times a year.
Here are my observations based on the past 200 hrs;
1) Going primerless has worked well for me with only one "scare". When
we were in Page, AZ in February, the plane sat overnight on a
sub-freezing, wind-blown ramp. I had to work pretty hard getting the
engine to keep running after it fired. I suspect some of the problem was
due to my fear of over-priming with the throttle, but the Concorde RG is
a tough little battery and after several tries the engine was running
fine. This is the only problem start I have had. I might add that I have
a lightweight starter instead of the slow-turning Prestolite.
2) The HotPadd works as advertised. I keep it plugged in from October
until April. It is on a wall thermostat that kicks in below 65F and the
heater has a thermostat that limits the sump heat to 150F. I typically
find that oil temp is 70-90F on early Saturday pancake breakfast
mornings, and the engine starts promptly with only a short jab of the
throttle.
3) I usually only need to stroke the throttle one time for a cold start.
I have never had any problems with cold starts with the above exception.
Granted, if you live in colder climes, going primerless may not be the
best option. However, I love not having the little copper tubes running
all through the engine compartment. Bob Butler had one of the primer
lines break on his RV-6A and it was a nervous trip back to the airport
while he sniffed gas fumes (I thought the primer wouldn't pass fuel
while it was locked but he was getting fumes from somewhere....).
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, just back from rained out Abilene SWRFI.....I have
now seen west Texas from CLOSE range.......but that is another
story....)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
===============
Ross wrote:
>
>
> I was reading Sky Ranches Enginneering Manual concerning the operation of
> aircraft engines and two things caught my eye. 1) Priming should be kept
> to a minimum and
> 2) Cold oil and uneven heating/cooling of the engine (mostly in regards to
> baffling problems) can be very distructive
>
> I also scanned the archives and found some posts where folks have found they
> use their primers very little if at all.
>
> Priming systems are very "parts intensive" with lots of tubes and small
> fittings to deal with. The Reiff cylinder head and oil sump heaters
> http://www.execpc.com/reiff/ seem very eaily installed.
>
> I am buying a new O-360A1A from Vans and want to do all I can to keep it
> happy. I am leaning towards not putting a priming system in and installing
> Rieffs cylinder and oil sump heaters. With the complete system going for
> $327 (1.5% of the engine cost) it seems like money well spent.
>
> Any Comments?
>
> Ross Mickey
> 6A 9PT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nicholas Knobil" <nknobil(at)gwi.net> |
> Hey guys,
>
> I'm planning on installing an Ellision TBI on the engine that powers
> my RV-8. Ellison recommends the use of a FRAM HPG-1 fuel filter, and
> also recommends that it be placed in the cockpit, away from engine
> heat.
>
> If I do this I will need to rout a drain line from the filter to the
> exterior of the aircraft, through the cockpit sub-floor and fuselage
> skin.
>
> Do you have any recommendations as to how to do this, where to do it,
> and what hardware/fittings to use? If you think my thinking is wrong
> on this issue, I'd be more than glad to hear what you think about it.
>
> Always greatful for your input...
>
> Nick Knobil (80549)
> Bowdoinham, Maine (where it snowed yesterday, here where overshooting
> 14 at Merrymeeting Field puts you right into the Atlantic Ocean < at
> least when the tide's in>...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Wingtip Lens Installation |
Hello Listers
I am installing Van's small (cheap) wingtip lens kit. The instructions
say to set the lens back approx. 10" but mine seem to fit better with an
8" setback. Has anyone else had this problem?
Rob Miller
Finishing 80153
Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel injection fuel pressure |
Fellow Listers:
Does anyone know the normal, min. and max fuel pressure for a Bendix fuel
injection system (AEIO-360)?
Thanks
Doug
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Heaters vs. Primers |
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, #80500, painted wingtips this morning, gun got clogged then cleared,
> got a run :-(
Bummer!!
I have already purchased the solinoid, bulkhead running T and reducer to
hook up the primer system so what I will probubly do is install them with a
plug in the outlet of the solinoid and no electricity to it. That way, if I
find that priming is needed, it will be easier to install.
The only downside I have run into so far with no primer is the situation
where no electricity is available for the pre-heat and its cold. In this
situation, I will probubly just bite the bullet and have the friendly FBO
pre-heat it for me.....unless there is no FBO... then....as someone
mentioned on this thread, we homebuilders can think ourselves into a bad
situation given enough time!!
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Check These Juggs Out. |
http://www.liquidcooledairpower.com/products.html
I sure wouldn't mind trying out a set
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
List: I am working on the Sliding Canopy and while I still have easy access
to the firewall was debating whether to add a Parking Brake? It seems like
a lot of money and work for something I never used even when learning to
fly.
From what I have seen the parking brake on single engine aircraft
look like "Line Locks" we used when Drag Racing.
I would also like to pass on a tip when installing those four
aluminum spacers under the Canopy Rollover Bar: Super glue holds the nuts
and washers on the spacers and allows them to start threading until you can
get a wrench on them!!
My RV6-A-QB is starting to look like a plane.
Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: platenuts in the floor |
In a message dated 10/21/00 3:25:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
edperry64(at)netzero.net writes:
<< OK ...how are you guys attaching the platenuts on the floor >>
Can't speak for anyone else but I discovered awhile back that the 3/32 (#3)
NAS rivets have such a small head that I can easily countersink them in the
0.025 floor ribs. I usually do it with a few turns of my deburring tool.
Works fine for nutplates but I would not use them for a structural
application.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Master Relay |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2000 2:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: Master Relay
> >
> It would be easier to get at it if it was mounted on the back of the RV6A
> firewall governer hump than if it was high on the firewall.
>
> Norm, the master should be as close to the battery as possible.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | meketa <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel injection fuel pressure |
Doug
Right out of the Lycoming operators manuel.
AIO-360 Series, HIO-360 Series (Except-A1B)
max desired min
inlet to pump 35 --- -2
AIO Series; HIO Series
inlet to fuel injector
max desired min
45 14
In other words you can have max 35 psi from the electric pump to the
inlet of the mechanical pump, if they are run in series. You can and
will have a slight vacuum at the inlet of the mechanical pump. When the
electric pump is off, on a low wing aircraft where the tank is lower
than the pump. You can have 14 to 45 psi at the inlet to the fuel
injector. Whether the electric pump is on or off.
I believe the mechanical pump pressure is normally in the low twenty psi
range and the electric pump is set slightly higher at about twenty five
psi. Maybe someone can give the pressures thay see in a flying aircraft.
Hope this helps.
George Meketa
RV-8\QB IO360\CS finishing
Doug Weiler wrote:
>
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> Does anyone know the normal, min. and max fuel pressure for a Bendix fuel
> injection system (AEIO-360)?
>
> Thanks
>
> Doug
>
> ================
> Doug Weiler
> Hudson, WI
> 715-386-1239
> dougweil(at)pressenter.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 24 Msgs - 10/21/00 |
Is anyone using the firewall insulation that Vans sells?
Dave Ford
RV6 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Master Relay |
In a message dated 10/22/00 11:50:26 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes:
<< I have the Vans Master Relay. Is this the same as Bob's Battery
Contactor?>>
Both the Cole-Hersee (that Van's sells) and the White-Rogers brands are in
common usage and are readily available. I think the Cole-Hersee is a little
more ruggedly built, but that is just my opinion.
<< How much maintenance do they need in service?>>
Zip, nada, zilch.
<>
Nothing lasts forever, but these things are close.
<< It would be easier to get at it if it was mounted on the back of the RV6A
firewall governor hump than if it was high on the firewall. >>
That is where both of my contactors are.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Solvent for Fuel Lube |
Listers,
A while back someone asked what solvent would cut Fuel Lube. I never saw an
answer and would like to know as well.
I'm about to dig my wings out of the bedroom and paint them. The fuel sender
plates are presently sealed with Fuel Lube. Based on other posts here on the
topic I think I will chicken out and ProSeal the plates and screws. Anyone
using Fuel Lube to seal these plates & screws successfully?
Thanks!
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, in paintingland
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Parking Brake |
In a message dated 10/22/00 5:43:15 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
tcervin(at)valkyrie.net writes:
<< I am working on the Sliding Canopy and while I still have easy access
to the firewall was debating whether to add a Parking Brake? It seems like
a lot of money and work for something I never used even when learning to
fly. >>
Strange. I use mine all the time. Lots of slanted fueling ramps and high
winds when flying cross country.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Buffing questions |
Gang,
Well, I made it all the way to my wing tips before getting a run. I don't
feel too bad because this was caused by the vent in the lid of my paint gun
getting clogged. Gradually the paint flow was getting choked off so I was
having to go slower and slower. Then it cleared of course and dumped a bunch
of paint just as I was doing the middle of the top section. Seconds later it
of course formed into a run... what a helpless feeling!
Anyway, per Sam Buchanan's advice I will be sanding and buffing (plus my
flaps have a bit too much orange peel for my taste although the ailerons
look pretty good). This leads me to my quesitons...
-How long should you wait before sanding/buffing?
(Concept seems to take at least two weeks to fully harden)
-Is a DA sander preferrable to a rotary one?
-Are sponge pads better than wool ones?
-What compound are folks having success with?
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, learning lots about painting!
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dustin Norlund" <dustin_norlund(at)geotec.net> |
"RV-List Digest Server"
I have a small gap between couple of my wing skins running down the spar.
This is not a big problem just a small gap that needs to be filled for
painting. What should i use to fill it? Has anyone used a filler here in
the past with good results? I saw a RV at Oshkosh that had the same error,
the wings were filled in the same area.
Dustin Norlund rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Master Relay |
| From: | porterbob(at)juno.com |
writes:
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2000 2:44 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Master Relay
>
>
> > >
> > It would be easier to get at it if it was mounted on the back of
> the RV6A
> > firewall governer hump than if it was high on the firewall.
> >
> > Norm, the master should be as close to the battery as possible.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Parking Brake |
> List: I am working on the Sliding Canopy and while I still have easy
access
> to the firewall was debating whether to add a Parking Brake? It seems
like
> a lot of money and work
Heavy little thing too. I have the one from Van. Small but solid. I haven't
mounted it yet, and it didn't come with any instructions. A drawing sure
would be nice to have. Has anybody got one?..........Norman...............
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRGSCHMIDT(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Parking Brake |
I installed one on each of the two conventional gear RV-6 aircraft I'm
building. These airplanes are so light and susceptible to cross winds when
parking that you may have difficulty getting out of the airplane after
shutting down without assistance from ground personnel. I came home one day
in a RV-6A and required help after parking in front of the hangar because
there was no way to keep her from swinging around into the wind and then
backwards without a parking brake.
Greg Schmidt
RV6S
Wiring and canopy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Pittman" <SPITTMAN(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Four Questions |
I have never actually done it myself but I know that business jets use 890
PRC (tank sealant). The skin gaps are often 1/8 inch wide. Works great.
As nasty as it is, PRC is really pretty good stuff.
http://www.prc-desoto.com/index.taf
Scott Pittman
----- Original Message -----
From: Dustin Norlund <dustin_norlund(at)geotec.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2000 9:58 PM
Subject: RV-List: Four Questions
>
>
> I have a small gap between couple of my wing skins running down the spar.
> This is not a big problem just a small gap that needs to be filled for
> painting. What should i use to fill it? Has anyone used a filler here in
> the past with good results? I saw a RV at Oshkosh that had the same
error,
> the wings were filled in the same area.
>
> Dustin Norlund rv6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael G. McGee" <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | new 5th point belt won't latch |
Has anyone added a 5th point belt to their plane and the buckle for the 4
point belts didn't work? Is the male side a different part number for 5
belts that I need to get also? Or did you just grind enough off to
work.? This is consistent with both sets on the plane.
Thanks, Mike
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Aurora, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Solvent for Fuel Lube |
In a message dated 10/22/00 9:17:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time, randy@rv-8.com
writes:
> Listers,
>
> A while back someone asked what solvent would cut Fuel Lube. I never saw an
> answer and would like to know as well.
Randy,
I was the poster.... I used laquer thinner to remove excess fuel lube. It
cleaned it off pretty well. MEK might (or might not) work too.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Buffing questions |
In a message dated 10/22/00 9:45:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time, randy@rv-8.com
writes:
In my considerable sanding and buffing experience (believe me, I'm the
world's worst painter, and therefore an experienced sander/buffer), a sanding
block is the way to go. Be very careful sanding over rivet heads, it is
very, very easy to go through the paint (again, I speak from experience).
On your run(s) use a hard sanding block, and start with 400 grit paper for a
few strokes, then move up to finer paper rapidly, finishing with 2000 grit.
You'll be happier if you leave a little bit of the run in there (it's
probably just a little 'ol ripple anyway and nobody except you will notice
it), rather than risking going through the adjacent paint.
Your local auto body store will have a good recommendation on which compound
will work well on your paint.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 24 Msgs - 10/21/00 |
> Is anyone using the firewall insulation that Vans sells?
>
Yup and it seems to work well. I taped the cut edges with aluminum tape
to keep them from fraying and it looks good too.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Check These Juggs Out. |
--- Gary Zilik wrote:
>
> http://www.liquidcooledairpower.com/products.html
>
> I sure wouldn't mind trying out a set
>
> Gary Zilik
Saw them at the AOPA convention yesterday. I still do not understand
why someone would want to add more weight, still have the same amount
of heat to remove (transfer heat from cylinder to water then to air
instead of just cylinder to air), an extra system to maintain, and an
extra system to fail.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
720+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: Buffing questions |
> -Is a DA sander preferrable to a rotary one?
This question wasn't clear, I mean for buffing not for sanding.
Thanks
Randy Lervold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | FW: Buffing questions |
Randy,
It all depends on whats near where you want to buff. Use a good electric
variable speed buffer but be very careful near edges. One trick is to use
masking tape over seams to keep from "burning" an edge plus it keeps
compound from getting in the crack. The finer the grit of sandpaper you
finish with, the easier it is to buff out the scratches. Keep the buffer
speed as low as possible to keep from generating too much heat. There are
times (and places) where it is safest to hand rub an area (usually a small
spot)to keep from burning through the paint. This is even true for a
basecoat-clearcoat job. Good luck.
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2000 9:00 PM
Subject: RV-List: FW: Buffing questions
> -Is a DA sander preferrable to a rotary one?
This question wasn't clear, I mean for buffing not for sanding.
Thanks
Randy Lervold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Pitted Nose Gear |
I just picked up my nose gear for my 6-A from Vans. While I was cleaning
the axle portion to apply "storage grease" to it, I noticed two 1/8 inch
pits about 1/32 inch deep near the drilled holes. I don't think this is
acceptable and it makes me wonder about all that metal underneath the powder
coating.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David & Betty Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Buffing questions |
David & Betty Burton
>
> -How long should you wait before sanding/buffing?
> (Concept seems to take at least two weeks to fully harden)
Then I'd wait two weeks :-)
If you sand and the paint balls up and clogs the sandpaper you need to wait
longer. I would advise wet sanding. I wet sand and then use a soft squeegee to
dry the surface so you can inspect the finish. I use a washcloth out of a
bucket of water to wet the surface while sanding, and rinse the sandpaper in the
bucket as well as the washcloth to keep it clean. You can use the wash cloth to
clean the sanded surface before squeegee'n. If your sandpaper is clogging at
all the paint is still too soft. You should be able to wet sand without ever
getting a drop of water on the floor. Sand a little, squeegee. Inspect the
surface. Sand a little more, squeegee. If you do it this way, you should never
sand through the finish and should easily get a perfect surface. Always use a
sanding block if the surface will allow it.
> -Is a DA sander preferrable to a rotary one?
Ixnay on the DA. You want to use a slow rotary polisher. They look like a
grinder, but turn much slower. I have used a wool pad for rubbing compound, and
polishing compound. I have also tried the foam pad for fine polishing and I'm
not sure what I thought of the results. I still am using it.... I have a pad
for each grit of polish and never mix them. For coarse polishing (rubbing
compound) you would want to use a dressing wheel on the pad to clean it up from
time to time. I don't think I would consider using rubbing compound though
unless you really need to.
>
> -What compound are folks having success with?
I usually rub, then polish with generic compounds from the auto body paint
shop. After that I use Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #2, then #9. I usually follow
with Black Magic swirl illuminator, also all from the auto body paint store.
Good luck, it takes practice. Read the instructions, and I have the best
luck working the compound till it is dry and I'm worried that the pad might
start to burn the finish.
Might not hurt to ask the same question on rec.avaition.homebuilt. It can
be a source of great information, if you can stand the BS....
Dave Burton
RV6A
Seattle
>
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, #80500, learning lots about painting!
> Home Wing VAF
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gusndale(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Lasar Tachometer Signal/Rocky Mountain Micromonitor |
Hi Builders,
Here's a question that I'm sure someone knows the answer to but there's
nothing in the archives.
I have the Lasar electronic ignition replacing both mags on my 0-360.
I'm also using the Rocky Mountain Instruments Micromonitor to keep track of
my engine. The Lasar produces a signal for electronic tachometers but I can't
tell if the signal it sends is what my Micromonitor needs for its tach input.
Anybody have this setup running so they can tell me if the signals are
compatible? From looking at both manuals, it looks like they may be but I
don't really know. I'd like to hook it up right the first time while
everything is relatively accessable.
I'm sure someone must have already found the answer to this. Thanks in
advance to anyone who can help me out.
Best Regards,
Dale Wotring
Vancouver, WA
RV6A,
Lycoming 0-360A2A
Sensennich Fixed Pitch (84)
wiring wiring wiring wiring!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Master Relay |
> Is there any merrit to placing them as accessable as possible?
Two advantages to putting the master contactor inside are 1) it gives you a
terminal to put jumper cables on without having to remove the cowl or take
the cover off the battery box (a moot point if you have an aux power plug),
and 2) reducing firewall clutter. I'm sure there are good reasons to do
otherwise (check the archives -- I remember numerous discussions about this
in the past), but I put mine inside for the above reasons -- above and to
the right of the battery box.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 22 Msgs - 10/19/00 |
Because its open Mic.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: new 5th point belt won't latch |
Hi Mike
I had exactly this problem when I installed the fifth belt in the front seat
of my four. I had to file at the shoulders of the male side of the buckle
until it would latch properly. Even now, if I don't put the crotch and
shoulder belts on the buckle in a particular order, the buckle won't latch.
file away!!
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
Subject: RV-List: new 5th point belt won't latch
>
> Has anyone added a 5th point belt to their plane and the buckle for the 4
> point belts didn't work? Is the male side a different part number for 5
> belts that I need to get also? Or did you just grind enough off to
> work.? This is consistent with both sets on the plane.
> Thanks, Mike
>
> Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Aurora, OR
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Attaching nut plates on the RV8 Floor |
Thinking about the purpose and stresses on the nutplates, I decided to use
'SOFT" RIVETS instead of the hard ones. Two reasons. They will hold the
nut plate in place until the screw is in position (only requirement) and (2)
they can be squashed with a pair of pliers, special tool, hammer and a
multitude of methods.
As for the Counter sinking, I found an extension tool for a drill at Sears
which allowed me to use the counter sink and reach into those corners.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Aileron mount bracket procedures |
Mike,
I mounted mine before putting the wing in the jig.
With the wing skeleton nose down, resting the fuel tank section on a
horiz. table. The rear spar is on top. I ran a string line along the
rear spar hanging plumb bobs over the ends then aligned the strings with
the tooling holes. I marked this position.
The corresponding position line can be marked on the bracket quite
easily using a square and ruler.
Doug Gray
> In looking over the plans for the inboard
> aileron mount bracket 413 on Drawing 16, I'm wondering how others have
> verified the proper location (top to bottom) for the mount?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Supporting the RV-6A fuselage when fitting the wings |
Listers,
My RV-6A has been up on the gear for about 10 months while I fit the engine,
FWF and a thousand other things. I have wooden false spars in place and
bolted the landing gear mounts and the F-604. I am ready to fit the wings
temporarily for drilling the rear spar, rigging the flaps and ailerons, etc.
My question? Should I put the fuselage up on a cradle to get the weight off
the main gear when I unbolt those false spars and slide in the real ones?
There doesn't seem to be much holding up the airplane when the bolts are
pulled out the of false spar.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lee <borgny(at)rconnect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lasar Tachometer Signal/Rocky Mountain Micromonitor |
I have the same set-up as you, ie RMI monitor and Lasar ignition. I called Ron
at
RMI and he said to short out R3 resistor.
John Lee
RV-6A wiring
Gusndale(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Hi Builders,
>
> Here's a question that I'm sure someone knows the answer to but there's
> nothing in the archives.
>
> I have the Lasar electronic ignition replacing both mags on my 0-360.
> I'm also using the Rocky Mountain Instruments Micromonitor to keep track of
> my engine. The Lasar produces a signal for electronic tachometers but I can't
> tell if the signal it sends is what my Micromonitor needs for its tach input.
> Anybody have this setup running so they can tell me if the signals are
> compatible? From looking at both manuals, it looks like they may be but I
> don't really know. I'd like to hook it up right the first time while
> everything is relatively accessable.
>
> I'm sure someone must have already found the answer to this. Thanks in
> advance to anyone who can help me out.
>
> Best Regards,
> Dale Wotring
> Vancouver, WA
> RV6A,
> Lycoming 0-360A2A
> Sensennich Fixed Pitch (84)
> wiring wiring wiring wiring!!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dustin Norlund" <dustin_norlund(at)geotec.net> |
"RV-List Digest Server"
>
> I have a small gap between couple of my wing skins running down the spar.
> This is not a big problem just a small gap that needs to be filled for
> painting. What should i use to fill it? Has anyone used a filler here in
> the past with good results? I saw a RV at Oshkosh that had the same
error,
> the wings were filled in the same area.
>
> Dustin Norlund rv6
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Schilling" <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Seatback question... |
You trim the glass down to clear the belts.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Thin Nose Squeezer Yoke |
Hi Friends, will the Thin Nose "no hole" Squeezer Yoke (4" or 2 1/2") reach
the last few trailing edge rivets on the elevators and rudder. If so, I
probably will have to take the dive and purchase yet another yoke.
Thanks!
Jack
RV8 Left Elevator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Lasar Tachometer Signal/Rocky Mountain Micromonitor |
Why not e-mail Rocky Mountain Instruments? They should know. The other
person to e-mail for Lazar questions is Harry Fenton at Unison
harry(at)unisonindustries.com
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Gusndale(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 12:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lasar Tachometer Signal/Rocky Mountain Micromonitor
>
> Hi Builders,
>
> Here's a question that I'm sure someone knows the answer to but
there's
> nothing in the archives.
>
> I have the Lasar electronic ignition replacing both mags on my 0-360.
> I'm also using the Rocky Mountain Instruments Micromonitor to keep track
of
> my engine. The Lasar produces a signal for electronic tachometers but I
can't
> tell if the signal it sends is what my Micromonitor needs for its tach
input.
> Anybody have this setup running so they can tell me if the signals are
> compatible? From looking at both manuals, it looks like they may be but I
> don't really know. I'd like to hook it up right the first time while
> everything is relatively accessable.
>
> I'm sure someone must have already found the answer to this. Thanks
in
> advance to anyone who can help me out.
>
>
> Best Regards,
> Dale Wotring
> Vancouver, WA
> RV6A,
> Lycoming 0-360A2A
> Sensennich Fixed Pitch (84)
> wiring wiring wiring wiring!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jah" <jah(at)abraxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Buffing questions |
I used to work in a body shop and we always used rotary buffers. I should also
mention that they are air powered rather than electric too.
-Jeff
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 21:00:15 -0700
>
>
>> -Is a DA sander preferrable to a rotary one?
>
>This question wasn't clear, I mean for buffing not for sanding.
>
>Thanks
>Randy Lervold
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel injection fuel pressure |
Doug--
Operators Manual, Lycoming, pg. 4-12 "Fuel Pressure AEIO-360, inlet to
fuel pump = -2 to 35 psi--inlet to fuel injector = 14 to 45 psi. It
doesn't matter what type of injection system you have.
Every one should have an Operator's Manual for their engine. Contact
Lycoming or The Builders' Bookstore.
Boyd
N600SS
>
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> Does anyone know the normal, min. and max fuel pressure for a Bendix fuel
> injection system (AEIO-360)?
>
> Thanks
>
> Doug
>
> ================
> Doug Weiler
> Hudson, WI
> 715-386-1239
> dougweil(at)pressenter.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternator noise |
10/23/2000 09:44:56 AM
Reposted for e-searching
"Brian Denk" (at)matronics.com on 10/22/2000 10:50:12 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to "Brian Denk"
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Alternator noise solved
Greetings listers,
After dealing with alternator noise coming through the COM for the past
several months, I decided to do something about it. Rusty Duffy also has
been dealing with the noise in his COM. I originally installed a cap
across
the alternator output, but this did not work. Rusty called the folks at
VAL
(we both have the VAL 760 com) for advice. They recommended installing a
choke kit from Radio Shack, part number
270-030A, which costs about four bucks. It works! Absolutely no alternator
whine no matter where I have the headset and intercom volume knobs set.
It's a simple kit, with a small transformer and cap that is wired into the
power wire to the com. Simple, easy to install and does the job.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I use a sprial notebook, take pictures of the internals that I deem
needed for any inspector, & have a folder of the costs as I go.
Don Jordan -- 6A finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
*****************************************************
writes:
>
>
> Hi every body:
>
> Is it necessary make a logbook..? I mean I must make anote of every
> hour I
> spend building my airplane..?
>
> Thanks
>
> Daniel Estrada
> Mxico D.F.
> RV-6A Empenage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Check These Juggs Out. |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Check These Juggs Out.
Thread-Index: AcA8pg4JIXZCXXOgSym6u0j+IKWBowAW72IA
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
They explain "why" on their website...its an interesting read, and some
good possible trade-offs. There are big-bore Continentals out there
that have liquid cooled cylinders.
Thanks!
Bob Japundza
RealMed Corporation
www.realmed.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary A. Sobek [mailto:rv6flier(at)yahoo.com]
Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2000 10:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Check These Juggs Out.
--- Gary Zilik wrote:
>
> http://www.liquidcooledairpower.com/products.html
>
> I sure wouldn't mind trying out a set
>
> Gary Zilik
Saw them at the AOPA convention yesterday. I still do not understand
why someone would want to add more weight, still have the same amount
of heat to remove (transfer heat from cylinder to water then to air
instead of just cylinder to air), an extra system to maintain, and an
extra system to fail.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
720+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel injection fuel pressure |
10/23/2000 11:29:04 AM
Now........., what aux. elect pump does one use to provide these pressures.
The Weldon, Pesco & Dukes aircraft type pumps cost more than the preverbal
first born. Does Holley or some other vender have a save alternative. Don
@ performance aero has pumps too, but I think the cost is up
there.......any ideas from the group......
bcbraem(at)home.com@matronics.com on 10/23/2000 10:09:57 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to bcbraem(at)home.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel injection fuel pressure
Doug--
Operators Manual, Lycoming, pg. 4-12 "Fuel Pressure AEIO-360, inlet to
fuel pump = -2 to 35 psi--inlet to fuel injector = 14 to 45 psi. It
doesn't matter what type of injection system you have.
Every one should have an Operator's Manual for their engine. Contact
Lycoming or The Builders' Bookstore.
Boyd
N600SS
>
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> Does anyone know the normal, min. and max fuel pressure for a Bendix fuel
> injection system (AEIO-360)?
>
> Thanks
>
> Doug
>
> ================
> Doug Weiler
> Hudson, WI
> 715-386-1239
> dougweil(at)pressenter.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | back riveting help/advice please |
I am currently riveting the stiffeners onto the rudder and having a terrible
time of it.
Up till now squeezing and "conventional" riveting is going pretty well, but
my back riveting efforts are producing many shop heads that are to far to one
side to be acceptable. I am going slowly and really trying to keep the gun
square to the work but nothing seems to help.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Tracy
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel injection fuel pressure |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
NOTE 2.
Pressure limits:
Fuel: Inlet to Diaphragm Pump Inlet to
Injector
Maximum
with
Injector
Idle
Minimum
Maximum Minimum Cutoff Maximum
Minimum Idle
IO-360-A,-C (except C1F);-J,-K 35 p.s.i. -2 p.s.i. 55 p.s.i. __
__ __
AIO 360-A,-B: AEIO-360-A:
LIO-360-C
IO-360-B (except B1A, -B1C); 35 p.s.i. -2 p.s.i. __ __
__ __
-D,-E,-L; AEIO-360-B,-H;
HIO-360 (all models except
-E,-F), LHIO-360-C
IO-360-B1A __ __ __ 2 p.s.i.
-2 p.s.i. __
Doug:
IO-360-B1C __ __ __ 45 p.s.i.
14 p.s.i. __
IO-360-C1F,-F1A (See NOTE 9) 45 p.s.i. -2 p.s.i. 55 p.s.i. 45 p.s.i.
14 p.s.i. 12 p.s.i.
HIO-360-E1AD,-E1BD,-F1AD 55 p.s.i. -2 p.s.i. __ 55 p.s.i.
27 p.s.i. 12 p.s.i.
LHIO-360-F1AD
Boost Pump Outlet Limits to Injector:
Parallel Boosts Series Boosts
Maximum Minimum Maximum Minimum
Zero fuel flow 45 p.s.i. __ 35 p.s.i. __
Maximum fuel flow __ 14 p.s.i. ___ 14 p.s.i.
Oil: Maximum Minimum
Normal 95 p.s.i. 55 p.s.i.
Idle __ 25 p.s.i.
Starting and warm-up 115 p.s.i. __
****************************************************
I copied this from my "ols" cd rom. I think the FAA would have it, YOu
need a dash # to get sireious.
Don Jordan -- 6A finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
*****************************************************
writes:
>
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> Does anyone know the normal, min. and max fuel pressure for a Bendix
> fuel
> injection system (AEIO-360)?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Doug
>
>
> ================
> Doug Weiler
> Hudson, WI
> 715-386-1239
> dougweil(at)pressenter.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Pilot Operating Manual POH |
10/23/2000 10:07:17 AM
Reposted for e-searching
glenn williams (at)matronics.com on 10/20/2000 09:37:44 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to glenn williams
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: 8 POH
thanks for the info got it downloaded
Glenn
--- Brian Denk wrote:
>
>
>
> >
> >
> >Listers can someone provide me with the e-mail
> address
> >of the site for the 8 POH that was listed
> yesterday?
> >Thanks in advance
> > Glenn Williams
> >
> >
> >====
> >Glenn Williams
> >8A
> >A&P
>
> Glenn,
>
> Mike Robertson posted the URL to his POH. I'm
> editing it to suit my airplane
> right now! Nicely Done, Mike.
>
> http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks.html
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> 144 hrs.
> >N81GW
> >
> >Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.
> >
> >
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: back riveting help/advice please |
| From: | "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com> |
I found that the rivets called for were too long, and were causing me the
exact same problem. I switched to one size shorter and got perfect rivets
with well-formed shop heads.
Robert Dickson
RV-6A QB, fuse stuff
----------
>From: TD2016(at)AOL.COM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: back riveting help/advice please
>Date: Mon, Oct 23, 2000, 11:42 AM
>
>
> I am currently riveting the stiffeners onto the rudder and having a terrible
> time of it.
>
> Up till now squeezing and "conventional" riveting is going pretty well, but
> my back riveting efforts are producing many shop heads that are to far to one
> side to be acceptable. I am going slowly and really trying to keep the gun
> square to the work but nothing seems to help.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks
> Tracy
> RV-8
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Winters <dwinters(at)acraline.com> |
"'TD2016(at)AOL.COM'"(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | back riveting help/advice please |
Are you using a "back rivet" type tool in your gun? What size gun is it?
What pressure are you using?
I built a flat table out of particleboard, and cut a centersection out big
enough for a 5 x 10 x 1/4 thick steel plate that I finished out on a surface
grinder. The plate was mounted so that it set flush with the rest of the
tabletop. Then I just put the control surface on this table, and moved it
around so that the plate was under the rivet I was about to set. This
worked better than any riveting I had done to this point.
Try to give a little more detail about your setup.
-----Original Message-----
From: TD2016(at)AOL.COM [mailto:TD2016(at)AOL.COM]
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 10:43 AM
Subject: RV-List: back riveting help/advice please
I am currently riveting the stiffeners onto the rudder and having a terrible
time of it.
Up till now squeezing and "conventional" riveting is going pretty well, but
my back riveting efforts are producing many shop heads that are to far to
one
side to be acceptable. I am going slowly and really trying to keep the gun
square to the work but nothing seems to help.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Tracy
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Judd <sjudd(at)ffd2.com> |
| Subject: | Re: back riveting help/advice please |
Hi tracy,
On Mon, 23 Oct 2000 TD2016(at)AOL.COM wrote:
> my back riveting efforts are producing many shop heads that are to far to one
> side to be acceptable. I am going slowly and really trying to keep the gun
> square to the work but nothing seems to help.
I feel your pain.
I think I finally decided that the cleating happens primarily because the
rivet set drifts sideways. So I use two hands for back-riveting -- one
holding the gun (if you use your middle finger to pull the trigger you can
grip the butt of the gun firmly in your palm), and one holding the set, to
keep it from drifting.
I also go slowly -- a few hits, then check, then a few more hits --
especially on bad days. I also apply a lot of pressure to the parts, to
hold them together/flush while riveting. I also swear a lot, generate
intense feelings of inadequacy, and consider joining a monastery.
I still have to drill out way more back-rivets than I'd like to, so I'm
probably still missing something, and am interested in what the experts
have to say.
cu,
-Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel injection fuel pressure |
Now........., what aux. elect pump does one use to provide these pressures.
> The Weldon, Pesco & Dukes aircraft type pumps cost more than the
preverbal
> first born
Contact:
AIRFLOW PERFORMANCE SYSTEMS 864-576-4512
They sell a very nice high pressure FI boost pump for about $350. I have a
Weldon pump that needs to be overhauled. The overhaul shop wanted over $600
to do the job.
So I now have a brand new pump from Airflow and a Weldon in need of
overhaul. If anyone is interested I will sell the weldon for core value.
Bob Busick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
"'TD2016(at)AOL.COM'"(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | back riveting help/advice please |
Are you using a special back riveting set in you gun?
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
-----Original Message-----
I am currently riveting the stiffeners onto the rudder and having a terrible
time of it.
Up till now squeezing and "conventional" riveting is going pretty well, but
my back riveting efforts are producing many shop heads that are to far to
one
side to be acceptable. I am going slowly and really trying to keep the gun
square to the work but nothing seems to help.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: back riveting help/advice please |
> my back riveting efforts are producing many shop heads that are to
> far to one
> side to be acceptable. I am going slowly and really trying to keep
> the gun
> square to the work but nothing seems to help.
The only thing other than a non-square rivet gun I can think of for
"clinched" rivets, if that is what you describe, is using rivets that
are too long. Check the plans again, and be aware that Van's rivet
call-outs have been known to be, ummm... wrong.
If they are too long they will start leaning before squashing and the
results could be what you describe. Try a shorter rivet and see if
that helps - but make sure it's still a good head.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator noise solved |
Brian
Are you using the Val intercom? I have installed the Val radio with a PS
501 intercom. I asked the Val tech guy about intercoms with Val radios, and
he wasted no time recommending the PS 501.
FYI for other listers, some of the best advice he gave me was to buy the
prewired harness. You can make the radio harness real easy, but the
intercom harness is a real bear of a job.
Bob Busick
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2000 7:50 AM
Subject: RV-List: Alternator noise solved
>
> Greetings listers,
>
> After dealing with alternator noise coming through the COM for the past
> several months, I decided to do something about it. Rusty Duffy also has
> been dealing with the noise in his COM. I originally installed a cap
across
> the alternator output, but this did not work. Rusty called the folks at
VAL
> (we both have the VAL 760 com) for advice. They recommended installing a
> choke kit from Radio Shack, part number
> 270-030A, which costs about four bucks. It works! Absolutely no alternator
> whine no matter where I have the headset and intercom volume knobs set.
> It's a simple kit, with a small transformer and cap that is wired into the
> power wire to the com. Simple, easy to install and does the job.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Heaters vs. Primers |
10/23/2000 10:06:17 AM
Every engine I am familar with has some method of choking or enriching the
air/fuel mixture for first time & cold weather operation. I think heating
the engine as you suggest as the only item to bias cold weather starting
won't give you the options you need. I can certainly see the discussion on
one cylinder vrs. all four cylinder priming......elect priming vrs. manual
plunger priming.....but most folks would probalby agree that some sort of
priming is called for. BTW I think there is merrit to the elect. priming. I
am not certain if its a urban ledgend or not but there are stories about
pilots keeping the engine lit & running on the elect priming circuit when
the carb clogged up or iced up.........this may be like the story about the
inflatable girl dolls that pilots are strapping into the passanger seat &
using as aux. fuel tanks (blatters)......
"Ross" (at)matronics.com on 10/22/2000 01:19:10 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to "Ross"
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Engine Heaters vs. Primers
I was reading Sky Ranches Enginneering Manual concerning the operation of
aircraft engines and two things caught my eye. 1) Priming should be kept
to a minimum and
2) Cold oil and uneven heating/cooling of the engine (mostly in regards to
baffling problems) can be very distructive
I also scanned the archives and found some posts where folks have found
they
use their primers very little if at all.
Priming systems are very "parts intensive" with lots of tubes and small
fittings to deal with. The Reiff cylinder head and oil sump heaters
http://www.execpc.com/reiff/ seem very eaily installed.
I am buying a new O-360A1A from Vans and want to do all I can to keep it
happy. I am leaning towards not putting a priming system in and installing
Rieffs cylinder and oil sump heaters. With the complete system going for
$327 (1.5% of the engine cost) it seems like money well spent.
Any Comments?
Ross Mickey
6A 9PT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thin Nose Squeezer Yoke |
In a message dated 10/23/00 6:49:00 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com writes:
<< will the Thin Nose "no hole" Squeezer Yoke (4" or 2 1/2") reach the last
few trailing edge rivets on the elevators and rudder >>
Mine did, but I also did a little surgery with my grinder to thin the nose
just a tad more than stock.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: back riveting help/advice please |
In a message dated 10/23/00 8:48:49 AM Pacific Daylight Time, TD2016(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< my back riveting efforts are producing many shop heads that are to far to
one
side to be acceptable >>
Are you using the back riviting tool as supplied by Avery, Cleveland, and
others (the one with the sliding spring loaded sleeve)? If so, something may
be wrong with it because I had no problems back riveting right from the
get-go with mine.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: back riveting help/advice please |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
If they are bending over on the bucked side , they are likely too long.
check you length.
Don Jordan -- 6A finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
*****************************************************
>
> I am currently riveting the stiffeners onto the rudder and having a
> terrible
> time of it.
>
> Up till now squeezing and "conventional" riveting is going pretty
> well, but
> my back riveting efforts are producing many shop heads that are to
> far to one
> side to be acceptable. I am going slowly and really trying to keep
> the gun
> square to the work but nothing seems to help.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks
> Tracy
> RV-8
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I have 21 bulbs on bob's 3.0 amp control. I am pulling 1.5 amps. I would
recommend it.
Don Jordan -- 6A finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
*****************************************************
>
> Looking for any suggestions on a dimming unit for my instruments. I
> have a
> UMA light kit for 6 of them....but need a unit for the internally
> lit
> instruments and a few post lights. Any suggestions??
>
> Kurt, OKC, OK
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Dimmer... |
I have Bob's 5.0 A dimmer and l like it. You will need good soldering
skills to wire up the D-connector. Instructions and components are
excellent.
Dennis Persyk 6A O360A1A/Hartzell 0.0 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
Date: Monday, October 23, 2000 12:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: Panel Dimmer...
>
>I have 21 bulbs on bob's 3.0 amp control. I am pulling 1.5 amps. I would
>recommend it.
>
>Don Jordan -- 6A finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
>*****************************************************
>
>>
>> Looking for any suggestions on a dimming unit for my instruments. I
>> have a
>> UMA light kit for 6 of them....but need a unit for the internally
>> lit
>> instruments and a few post lights. Any suggestions??
>>
>> Kurt, OKC, OK
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | RockyMountain MicroMonitor mounting |
"Van Artsdalen, Scott"
Can anyone provide me with a description or better yet pictures of how they
mounted their MicroMonitor. RV4 builders/flyers would be especially
helpful.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming -320's |
10/23/2000 02:46:05 PM
TBO publication is another great publication. Started by the past editor &
founder of LPM.......Kas THomas is the main person here & is a wealth of
information ..
bcbraem(at)home.com@matronics.com on 10/20/2000 04:05:28 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to bcbraem(at)home.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Lycoming -320's
All--
The November 2000 issue of Light Plane Maintenance has a review article
of the -320 series and the changes it went thru over the years and
highlights certain trouble areas that the engine is known for and how to
fix/prevent them. It also has a separate sidebar on the the -2AHD. It
has a list of AD's for the -320 and a separate section of ADs/SBs & SIs
for the -2AHD.
This is an excellent magazine and IMHO every homebuilder/EAA chapter,
etc. should have a
subscription. It has a wealth of info that's just almost impossible to
find elsewhere, bundled together in nice concise articles. It's a
sister publication to Aviation Safety and Aviation Consumer.
PO Box 420234
Palm Coast, FL 32142
800.829.9085
Boyd
RV-S6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | RockyMountain MicroMonitor mounting |
Not an RV-4 but mine is at:
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing/panel2.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
Still on Finish Kit....
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Van Artsdalen,
Scott
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 10:16 AM
Subject: RV-List: RockyMountain MicroMonitor mounting
Can anyone provide me with a description or better yet pictures of how they
mounted their MicroMonitor. RV4 builders/flyers would be especially
helpful.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Grand Rapids EIS |
I had a very nice conversation with Greg Toman -> EngInfoSys(at)aol.com of
Grand Rapids Technologies -> http://hometown.aol.com/enginfosys the other
day, and wanted to pass on some information he gave me...
Coming in the spring will be a new EIS with a new face plate and updated
internals to accommodate more functionality. He is working on the flight
instrument aspect of the unit, and will be adding all the same function the
RMI unit currently has to include the remote mounted compass, and a GPS
interface. I am not sure about an encoder...
The other thing he is working on that should be of interest especially to
tandem RV owners, is a "slave" unit that will display everything the master
unit will, with only a power feed and a serial connection... The unit's
measurements are only 5.125" W x 2.562" H x 2.375" deep...
I am thinking of using the EIS4000 for my engine monitor AND flight
instrumentation (I will also have a LRI for backup AS indication), and the
slave unit for the GIB...
As always, any and all comments are welcome... Flame away!
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel injection fuel pressure |
The best buy that I found on a high pressure pump, and the one that Van's
shows in their plans, is the Airflow Performance pump. Still not cheap at
around $350 but much better than the others.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
>From: pcondon(at)csc.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, pcondon(at)csc.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, bcbraem(at)home.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel injection fuel pressure
>Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 11:31:06 -0400 10/23/2000 11:29:04 AM
>
>
>Now........., what aux. elect pump does one use to provide these pressures.
>The Weldon, Pesco & Dukes aircraft type pumps cost more than the preverbal
>first born. Does Holley or some other vender have a save alternative. Don
>@ performance aero has pumps too, but I think the cost is up
>there.......any ideas from the group......
>
>
>bcbraem(at)home.com@matronics.com on 10/23/2000 10:09:57 AM
>
>Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to bcbraem(at)home.com
>
>Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, Doug Weiler
>cc:
>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel injection fuel pressure
>
>
>Doug--
>
>Operators Manual, Lycoming, pg. 4-12 "Fuel Pressure AEIO-360, inlet to
>fuel pump = -2 to 35 psi--inlet to fuel injector = 14 to 45 psi. It
>doesn't matter what type of injection system you have.
>
>Every one should have an Operator's Manual for their engine. Contact
>Lycoming or The Builders' Bookstore.
>
>Boyd
>N600SS
> >
>
> >
> > Fellow Listers:
> >
> > Does anyone know the normal, min. and max fuel pressure for a Bendix
>fuel
> > injection system (AEIO-360)?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Doug
> >
> > ================
> > Doug Weiler
> > Hudson, WI
> > 715-386-1239
> > dougweil(at)pressenter.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel injection fuel pressure |
In a message dated 10/22/00 4:08:30 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com writes:
>
> Does anyone know the normal, min. and max fuel pressure for a Bendix fuel
> injection system (AEIO-360)?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Doug
>
>
Doug, My Bendix Injection shows 22 psi at cruise,,I have an
alarm set to alert me if it goes below 17 psi. At that point it`s about to
vapor lock.
Fred LaForge RV-4 EAA Tech C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: back riveting help/advice please |
10/23/2000 02:41:13 PM
My Cleavland/Avery back riveter works 101% and produces fantastic rivets
all the time. The piece of crap ATS back riveter I had was worthless.....
Don Jordan (at)matronics.com on 10/23/2000 01:29:43 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to Don Jordan
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: back riveting help/advice please
If they are bending over on the bucked side , they are likely too long.
check you length.
Don Jordan -- 6A finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
*****************************************************
>
> I am currently riveting the stiffeners onto the rudder and having a
> terrible
> time of it.
>
> Up till now squeezing and "conventional" riveting is going pretty
> well, but
> my back riveting efforts are producing many shop heads that are to
> far to one
> side to be acceptable. I am going slowly and really trying to keep
> the gun
> square to the work but nothing seems to help.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks
> Tracy
> RV-8
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: back riveting help/advice please |
Tracy, back riveting should be the easies of all the different types of
riveting. What pressure are you using. For a 3x gun, I would start out
with no more than 30-35 PSI and work up from there. I use about 38 psi and
1-2 sec burst for those size rivets. In fact, as a starter, try about 25
PSI and go up in 2-3 PSI increments and see how that works.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
>
> I am currently riveting the stiffeners onto the rudder and having a
terrible
> time of it.
>
> Up till now squeezing and "conventional" riveting is going pretty well,
but
> my back riveting efforts are producing many shop heads that are to far to
one
> side to be acceptable. I am going slowly and really trying to keep the
gun
> square to the work but nothing seems to help.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks
> Tracy
> RV-8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | gasleakproofscrews |
Does anyone know where the gas leak proof screws (the
kind with a rubber type gasket)that mount the plates
to the root of the fuel tank can be purchased
thanks ahead.
do not archieve
RV6A 110 hrs due for annual
Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
I just posted my panel pictures on a new page at:
http://rv8asite.homestead.com/mypanel.html
Jerry Carter
Finishing windshield
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)home.com> |
Hey Listers's!
I found this E6-B flight computer on the web.
I have been using it for flight planning & flight data analysis.
Enjoy.....Mark
http://mail.oit.osshe.edu/~kempaj/e6b/download.htm
Mark Steffensen
RV8A, Dallas, TX
Flying 60 Hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Supporting the RV-6A fuselage when fitting the wings |
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
By all means necessary, take the weight off the landing gear.
> My question? Should I put the fuselage up on a cradle to get the
> weight off the main gear when I unbolt those false spars and slide in
the real
> ones? There doesn't seem to be much holding up the airplane when the
bolts
> are pulled out the of false spar.
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, VT
Cecil Hatfield
Thousand Oaks California
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel injection fuel pressure |
I am going to run a Airflow Performance pump with the Bendix system on my 6A
it is about half the price of a Weldon.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay B.C.
-----Original Message-----
From: pcondon(at)csc.com <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Date: Monday, October 23, 2000 8:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel injection fuel pressure
>
>Now........., what aux. elect pump does one use to provide these pressures.
>The Weldon, Pesco & Dukes aircraft type pumps cost more than the preverbal
>first born. Does Holley or some other vender have a save alternative. Don
>@ performance aero has pumps too, but I think the cost is up
>there.......any ideas from the group......
>
>
>bcbraem(at)home.com@matronics.com on 10/23/2000 10:09:57 AM
>
>Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to bcbraem(at)home.com
>
>Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, Doug Weiler
>cc:
>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel injection fuel pressure
>
>
>Doug--
>
>Operators Manual, Lycoming, pg. 4-12 "Fuel Pressure AEIO-360, inlet to
>fuel pump = -2 to 35 psi--inlet to fuel injector = 14 to 45 psi. It
>doesn't matter what type of injection system you have.
>
>Every one should have an Operator's Manual for their engine. Contact
>Lycoming or The Builders' Bookstore.
>
>Boyd
>N600SS
>>
>>
>> Fellow Listers:
>>
>> Does anyone know the normal, min. and max fuel pressure for a Bendix fuel
>> injection system (AEIO-360)?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Doug
>>
>> ================
>> Doug Weiler
>> Hudson, WI
>> 715-386-1239
>> dougweil(at)pressenter.com
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marty Santic <martinsan(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Degradation of Alclad Surface w/ Scotchbrite |
I am to the point where I am ready to prime the HS for the RV-9A. Some
have told me to scuff the Alclad surface prior to priming but I am
concerned that I will degrade the Alclad coating?
Will I degrade the Alclad coating? Is it better to lightly scuff the
surface for better adhesion?
I will be using the SW wash primer and plan to clean all oils and dirt
from the surfaces with naptha (Coleman fuel).
Any thoughts would be appreciated wither direct or via the list.
Marty Santic RV-9A Empennage
Davenport, IA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Parking Brake |
I have it installed in my -8, I think it is going to be worth the weight
and it was not hard to install. There are pictures on my web page.
>
>> List: I am working on the Sliding Canopy and while I still have easy
>access
>> to the firewall was debating whether to add a Parking Brake? It seems
>like
>> a lot of money and work
>
>Heavy little thing too. I have the one from Van. Small but solid. I haven't
>mounted it yet, and it didn't come with any instructions. A drawing sure
>would be nice to have. Has anybody got one?..........Norman...............
>
>
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo
(570)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Degradation of Alclad Surface w/ Scotchbrite |
The flash point of Naphtha or Coleman gas is very low. It is NOT safe. A
little static electricity and away you go!!
Go to a automotive paint store and get one of the specialized surface
cleaners that work better, and are much safer. Don't want to read about
"homebuilder sets house or garage on fire" in the Quad Cities Times.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! and EAA Chapter 75 Newsletter editor.
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marty Santic" <martinsan(at)home.com>
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 9:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: Degradation of Alclad Surface w/ Scotchbrite
>
> I am to the point where I am ready to prime the HS for the RV-9A. Some
> have told me to scuff the Alclad surface prior to priming but I am
> concerned that I will degrade the Alclad coating?
>
> Will I degrade the Alclad coating? Is it better to lightly scuff the
> surface for better adhesion?
>
> I will be using the SW wash primer and plan to clean all oils and dirt
> from the surfaces with naptha (Coleman fuel).
>
> Any thoughts would be appreciated wither direct or via the list.
>
> Marty Santic RV-9A Empennage
> Davenport, IA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gar & Jan Pessel" <pessel(at)ptialaska.net> |
| Subject: | Re: back riveting help/advice please |
----- Original Message -----
From: <TD2016(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 7:42 AM
Subject: RV-List: back riveting help/advice please
>
> I am currently riveting the stiffeners onto the rudder and having a
terrible
> time of it.
>
> Up till now squeezing and "conventional" riveting is going pretty well,
but
> my back riveting efforts are producing many shop heads that are to far to
one
> side to be acceptable. I am going slowly and really trying to keep the
gun
>
If you have a good back rivet set, check for oil on the surface of the set.
If the surface is the least bit slippery, the set will skid sideways and
bend the rivet. I always dry mine before I use it. Gar Pessel, Fairbanks
AK RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Empennage - Rivet Hole Edge Distance HS-404 |
which plane you building? if you mean that you have a hole that violates the
2x, move forward. only a problem if you have many in a row. i had similar
prob. bob in arkansas doing wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: back riveting help/advice please |
make sure to double check the rivet length. not only here but EVERYWHERE.
vans plans not always perfect. usually when a rivet tilts to one side the
rivet is too long. if you are certain that u used correct drill and holes are
not oversized i would bet that you got to long a rivet. always use one had to
hold the rivet set steady. not only here but always. you will need another
person to buck of course. hang tuff, it will come and this happens to the
best of them. bob inarkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Houg <thoug(at)ATTGLOBAL.NET> |
| Subject: | Degradation of Alclad Surface w/ Scotchbrite |
Marty,
I'm in the same position you're in right now, I've got my RV-9 HS and VS
ready for priming. I've chosen to use a PPG DX 1791 self etching wash
primer similar to the SW wash primer. PPG claims excelent corrosion
resistance and recommends cleaning, sanding and then cleaning the surface
again prior to application - surface treatment is optional (i.e. alodine).
I can't speak to the effect the scotchbrite would have on the alclad, but I
would expect it to be minimal. Even if it scuffed it all off, I would feel
better about having some bite for the primer to adhere to. I plan on using
PPG DX330 (I believe) wax and grease remover, it's designed for pre-paint
cleaning. Then a light to moderate scuffing with scotchbrite followed by
another wipe down of the cleaner. Between the scuffing and self etching
properties of the primer there should be a good solid bond.
I believe Randy Lervold has used this same approach and recommends it on
his website (http://www.rv-8.com/pgPainting.htm), maybe he'll add a few
details regarding his preperation and application (hint, hint ;).
Of course there are many opinions as to the best way to prime, but, like
you I chose a simple one application approach that I feel will suit my
needs.
Todd Houg
St. Francis, MN
RV-9A HS and VS ready to prime - starting on the rudder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Supporting the RV-6A fuselage when fitting the wings |
> Should I put the fuselage up on a cradle to get the weight off
> the main gear when I unbolt those false spars and slide in the real ones?
Yes.....................Norman..............
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <Gary.Fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
"'RV-List Digest Server'"
| Subject: | Supporting the RV-6A fuselage when fitting the wings |
when I unbolt those false spars and slide in the real ones?
There doesn't seem to be much holding up the airplane when the bolts are
pulled out the of false spar.
I put a small (but stout) sawhorse under with carpet scraps to protect the
fuselage. Try to put it along the line of where the rear wing spar runs
across the back of the cockpit because it is a little beefier there. It is
not flat in that part on the six so use plenty of dunnage to support the
fuse. (The nose gear will still be on the ground). When you do this, some
things to think about...
1. Make sure you remember to mark where the wing skin fasteners on the
bottom go so you can drill them when you get the wings in. It will save you
having to do this later if you are ready from the git-go.
2. Spend extra time making sure you get the sweep, incidence and dihedral
right. It will save you getting a big calf muscle from pressing on a rudder
pedal when in cruise. Drill the aft spar in small increments with periodic
rechecks of alignment. Remember to consider the 6 front spar attach mod
that may prevent compromising the wing tanks in a crash.
3. Consider prelimary fitting of your wheel pants while you have the mains
off of the ground (once the wings are on). It's a good time to final check
the toe in too.
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: powder coat rust results |
dear listers
thanks for all the advice i have gotten from the list, the ending result was
as boyd suggested, wire brush in die grider and reprime. the wire brush
worked very well, it took off the powder coat that wasn't attached to the
metal. even though there were no rust in some spots, the wire brush took off
the loose powder coat that i'm sure would be rusted soon. the good new is
that the self eching Marhyde primer goes on thick and is a identical match to
the powder coat color. after completeing repairs, it looks like a brand new
powdercoated part again, can't tell where the stuff was grinded off, whhooo
hoooo. it only took about 20 minutes to fix. vans replied to my inquiry and
offer to replace the steel parts, but with my fuse on gear it would have been
too much work.
bottom line, i can sleep better at night now.
scott
tampa
rv6a finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> |
"Gardner, Douglas (GA01)"
Although I have not heard this so far in the replies, the Nations Air
builders risk policy I have pays $15.00/Hr of logged time off the logbook.
Doug Gardner #80717 Wiring
Palm Harbor Fla.
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Denk [mailto:akroguy(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2000 10:22 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: LOGBOOK...
>>
>I am using my web site as my log book... When I am done bilding, i will
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Master Relay |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>> Is there any merrit to placing them as accessable as possible?
>
>Two advantages to putting the master contactor inside are 1) it gives you a
>terminal to put jumper cables on without having to remove the cowl or take
October 16, 2000 - October 24, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-jm