RV-Archive.digest.vol-jo

October 31, 2000 - November 06, 2000



      >From: SALNED71(at)AOL.COM
      >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
      >To: rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com
      >Subject: RV-List: test pilot schools
      >Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 14:15:13 EST
      >
      >
      >Is there a list of test pilot schools we can attend
      >before we test our airplanes.
      >
      >     Thanks...........Ed Kowalski ...Finishing our RV-8
      >
      >
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Aeroflash light assemblies needed without power supply
Date: Oct 31, 2000
Mark, When you called Aeroflash did you find out if they do sell the parts individually. If they do then Acft Spruce or Wicks can oder from them. I have done that with special orders through Acft Spruce before. Not all the telephone operators now that so you may have to call customer sevice there in order to get it done. They just need to know the manufacturer and part number for what you want. Good Luck. Mike Robertson >From: czechsix(at)juno.com >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Aeroflash light assemblies needed without power supply >Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 05:17:47 -0600 > > >Listers, > >Does anyone know where I could get the Aeroflash strobe/nav light units >WITHOUT the power supplies? I'd like to use these on my wingtips and all >the companies I've called (including AC Spruce) will sell the whole >system, but not the lights by themselves. What do you do if you break a >lens on an Aeroflash system.....buy a whole new system? I called >Aeroflash and they said they don't sell stuff directly, and told me to >call AC Spruce! > >Whelen sells their light assemblies separately from the power supplies >but I'm assuming the Aeroflash units will be cheaper, IF I can buy them >somewhere. > >Thanks, > >--Mark Navratil >Cedar Rapids, Iowa >RV-8A > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: Bendix Servo and Mixture Cable
Date: Oct 31, 2000
I checked the archives and found a lot of usefull info, but nothing on how to secure or clamp the throttle and mixture cables to the engine or servo. I am using a Bendix Fuel Injection Servo. I have Vans throttle mounting bracket for O-360 engines. That bracket works for the throttle but it has the mixture mounting on the wrong side of the servo. I tried making a bracket out of aluminum and it fit well, but is not strong enough. So for you that have gone before me, how did you handle this problem. Is there a bracket that the certified aircraft use? Thanks for the help. Bob Busick ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM
Date: Oct 31, 2000
Subject: Re: Bendix Servo and Mixture Cable
Hi Bob: I have the same engine and fuel system on my RV4. I asked the same question several years ago and came up empty. It seems each aircraft design is unique enough that the throttle/mixture attachments all seem to be different. I didn't find anything commercially available. I designed a simple plate from 4130 0.063 stock that bolts between the servo and the engine sump. The throttle and mixture cables attachments consist of a couple of angle brackets. System is installed such that both cables approach from the rear of the servo. You didn't state what model aircraft you are working on. I still have the template I made if you think it might be of some help. Cheers, Tom Brown RV4 flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Ski Rack Pictures
Date: Oct 31, 2000
Sorry about the bum link, it's just that it is too long to fit on one line and therefore it won't work. Try: http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/vaf.htm Look at the column on the left and select "Builders Mods". All comments welcome. Norman Hunger RV6A Delta BC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 31, 2000
From: Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: While were on the subject of RF...
Jim, I spent almost a week fooling around with a feed back problem in my headsets (David Clarke 13.4 & 10-50) on my "6" when I keyed my mike, also the elevator & aileron trim indicators would dim and go weird at the same time. I tore everything apart and could find no reason for this peculiar behavior. I talked to David Clark's tech guy, radio tech guy, intercom tech person, (female very knowledgeable) know body had an idea what could be causing it, finally I remembered there was a note in the Van's windshield antenna kit that mentioned this problem. I called and talked with Gus ( new guy) he also has a "6" and had a similar problem with his windshield antenna. He told me he tied almost everything to fix it. Finally he gave up and changed to a regular antenna mounted on the belly. Here's the catch, I had a regular com antenna mounted on top behind the rear window section (tilt not slider) not the windshield antenna!. I took it off and mounted it on the belly, problem solved. I believe the antenna was radiating the signal right into my headset when I transmitted. I put the antenna back on top and tried moving my head around in the cockpit to see what would happen. There was a definite pattern to my head position and the noise. When I positioned the mike so that it was shielded by the roll over structure the noise stopped. This is relay weird, I've built some plastic airplanes and they are supposed to be very sensitive to antenna design and placement. Never had a problem like this. One last thing, people say not to mount an antenna on the belly because when your talking on ground frequency it doesn't work very well. Gus told me his works great except when it gets dirty. I called Reid Hillveiw ground and requested a radio check, they reported loud and clear. I made this call from my garage which is about 2 miles away. The metal door was closed and there is a bunch of junk hanging on the walls. Go figure. Hope this helps someone from spending hours chasing this gremlin. Garry "6" still finishing Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote: > > Has anyone had any problems with RF from their com getting into their > dimmers? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM
Date: Oct 31, 2000
Subject: Re: need help on bleeding the brakes
In a message dated 10/31/00 9:56:55 AM Eastern Standard Time, dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes: > >Isn't this bubble between the cylinder(s) and the reservoir? This would > >place it on the low pressure side of the system, and it wouldn't cause any > >spongienesss at all. > > > >I got one too... > > > >Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA > >RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth > > > The bubble is on the high pressure side of a dual brake system, ref 6A > Drawing 49, R4, in the vicinity of the 44 NSR tube callout. The bubble is > at the top of the arc of the lines connecting the cylinders. > > Dennis Persy After I read all the words again, I noticed a couple I skimmed over the first time: "Dual brakes". Oh well... Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)AOL.COM
Date: Oct 31, 2000
Subject: Re: Bendix Servo and Mixture Cable
I have the Bendix Servo on my RV-4 with the O-360. I designed a bracket and had it Laser cut and formed. I think I have a couple that I will sell for what they cost me, I will check tonight. The bracket I have is bolted between the servo and the air cleaner. Drop me an email if you are interested. robhickman(at)aol.com -Rob Hickman N401RH RV-4 ~100 Hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Bendix Servo and Mixture Cable
Date: Oct 31, 2000
Bob, Do you have an IO-360 or an O-360 that has been modified to take a fuel servo. If it is an IO-360 then I might be able to help a little. I got the 57" cable from Van's but am going to change it out to a 60" cable from Acft Spruce that has the high temp Teflon coating. Anyway. I got the throeaded clevis that fits the misture arm perfectly for that and then, using two Adel clamps secured the cable housing to the oil sump just under the #2 intake tube. Whatever you do make sure to install firesleeve on the misture cable as it runs pretty close to the #4 exhaust tube. If yu have any more specific questions give me a shout. Mike Robertson RV-8A N809RS >From: "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: Re: Bendix Servo and Mixture Cable >Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 15:21:06 -0800 > > >I checked the archives and found a lot of usefull info, but nothing on how >to secure or clamp the throttle and mixture cables to the engine or servo. > >I am using a Bendix Fuel Injection Servo. I have Vans throttle mounting >bracket for O-360 engines. That bracket works for the throttle but it has >the mixture mounting on the wrong side of the servo. I tried making a >bracket out of aluminum and it fit well, but is not strong enough. > >So for you that have gone before me, how did you handle this problem. Is >there a bracket that the certified aircraft use? > >Thanks for the help. > >Bob Busick > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 31, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: While were on the subject of RF...
> >Has anyone had any problems with RF from their com getting into their >dimmers? I'm using the stock dimmer unit from Van's and every time I key >my mic my cabin/instrument lights go out. Obviously the signal from the >transmitter is swamping the dimmer transistor but it all appears to be >grounded properly. Lots of power from the battery and nice big wires >feeding the dimmer unit. Do I need to put the dimmer in a metal box? > >I just love this stuff, > It would be nice if we had a schematic of the dimmer. Most of these cases can be cured with some filtering inside. Putting it inside a box is only part of the fix, filtering input and output wires is usually needed as well. I'm a bit concerned that the RF level is so high on your wiring to the dimmer from an antenna exernally mounted on a metal airplane. I'd check your coax connections for shield grounds that have come loose inside the connector. If push comes to shove, our dimmers have stood off strong RF interference rather well . . . Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different from ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 31, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Open Barrel Pin Connectors
> >Real good article. What do they cost? Do the type 1 that I bought do part >of this one.? > I see that you bought one of the evaluation specials I brought in before the current offering was selected for stocking. I don't recall which one you got. I think it was for the small (.062") Molex and D-Sub pins. This tool covers the full range of pins common to aircraft. They're now listed in our website catalog at http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/catalog.html Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different from ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net>
Subject: Re: Bleeding Brakes
Date: Oct 31, 2000
WAS BRILLIANT??? He still is the last time I read his column. :) In my opinion, he's the Bob Nuckolls of the motorcycle world and I'm jealous that you had the opportunity to talk with him personally. Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res) Plainfield, IL http://mnellis.jnet.net/Motorcycling.htm > Not necessarily RV related, but close. Back in the 1970s and 80s one of the > top privateer tuners for guys who roadraced motorcycles professionally was a > guy named Kevin Cameron. Masters in Engineering, PhD Harvard in Physics, > the guy was brilliant. He could eyeball a 2 stroke expansion chamber and > tell you where the power peak would be. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net>
Subject: VM-1000 order lead time
Date: Oct 31, 2000
FYI, I received confirmation today that my order will ship from the vendor's factory on 1/15/01. That's just over 2 1/2 months. Tom Barnes -6 electrical ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Daniel Estrada F." <dani_estrada(at)infosel.net.mx>
Subject: Is there someone in San Antonio or Miami...?
Date: Oct 31, 2000
Hi...I need help frome someone who live in San Antonio, Texas or Miami, Florida...why? let me explaine: Here in Mexico if the total invoice of my items to be imported goes up to $1,000.00 usd I must pay a lot of money (almost 50% of my total purchase)..With that problem, it is convenient for me to buy my tools from Avery and they send them to someone who lives in the states I mencioned before. Then I get an airline ticket for free with a friend of mine, travel to texas or miami, pick up my tools and get back to Mexico City....a little bit tired but I think is the best thing I can do... Please, if someone can help me and can trust, let me know so I can contact him off list... thanks in advance Daniel Estrada F. Mexico City RV6A Empenage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 31, 2000
From: Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com>
list-avionics , list-ez , list-glasair , list-lancair , list-rocket , list-rv8
Subject: Heated pitot tube good price
Hello listers, I sent out a post not long ago saying I will continue to sell the AN5814 heated pitot tube at the old price of $199 until all of my current stock is gone, then my price must go up due to increased price from the manufacture. I still have a few. First come first serve. They will go fast now. I also sell the mounting bracket kits for mounting this and the PH502-12CR heated pitot tube. Of course I sell this pitot also. To see these products and others I offer look at my website. The address is: http://www.gretzaero.com I hope to hear from you soon. Warren Gretz Gretz Aero ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 31, 2000
From: Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Is there someone in San Antonio or Miami...?
What ever happened to NAFTA. Oh Yea, that only works if the goods come from Mexico to the USA. Good lick finding someone. Bruce Glasair III "Daniel Estrada F." wrote: > > Hi...I need help frome someone who live in San Antonio, Texas or Miami, > Florida...why? let me explaine: > > Here in Mexico if the total invoice of my items to be imported goes up to > $1,000.00 usd I must pay a lot of money (almost 50% of my total > purchase)..With that problem, it is convenient for me to buy my tools from > Avery and they send them to someone who lives in the states I mencioned > before. Then I get an airline ticket for free with a friend of mine, travel > to texas or miami, pick up my tools and get back to Mexico City....a little > bit tired but I think is the best thing I can do... > > Please, if someone can help me and can trust, let me know so I can contact > him off list... > > thanks in advance > > Daniel Estrada F. > Mexico City > RV6A Empenage > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Alternator Weight
Date: Oct 31, 2000
I just received my alternator kit from Van's. I was very surprised at how heavy it was. I thought this was supposed to be a "light weight" alternator. Are the automotive alternators many of you are using lighter and/or smaller than this? If so, I think I will convert. Ted Lumpkin RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bob DiMeo - Oracle <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au>
Subject: Strobe Power Supplies
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Mark, I'm no expert by any means but here are a couple of things that might help. The light output you want is something close to what is put out by aviation systems. You might as well put something on that will be seen on a fast moving airplane from a reasonably long distance away in low light conditions. (notice I did not say night since even low power flashers would be seen a reasonable distance away on a black night). The current systems put out by Wheelen run around 20 joules/flash (check their web site to be sure). Their older system put out about 13 Joules. They went up in output because of new FAA requirements. I would say that you should get something that puts out at least what the older systems put out. I think Aeroflash units come up to the older level. For my money, I think Wheelen has the best approved systems right now and Aeroflash is the most popular systems for homebuilders who don't want to spend the high dollars. I understand that Grimes is getting back into the business of general aviation lighting systems. You might want to research them. So what will I put on my plane? Right now I'm planning to go with Wheelen wingtip strobes and q combination light/strobe on the tail and a wig-wag landing light system. I might change my mind but only for a better system. Bob RV8#423 Fuselage on order > ---------- > From: czechsix(at)juno.com > Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2000 09:14 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Strobe Power Supplies > > > Listers, > > I've been trying to figure out what strobe system I want to use on my RV. > The archives seem to have more questions than answers. There's a number > of systems on the market for aviation and non-aviation use, but many of > them don't have good specs for comparison. > > I have a combination tail nav/strobe light that I was given and would > like to get a single power supply that will drive 3 strobes (tail and > both wingtips). Whelen has one that Vans sells (around $400 IIRC). I > found a supply on Whelen's website (not designed for aircraft) called > model SPS-660 at http://www.whelen.com/vpps26c.htm that drives up to 6 > strobes with either Cometflash or Doubleflash patterns for $267. It's > rated 60 watts and on their spec page it says energy is 11/5/5/5 joules > (typ). I assume this is the joules for each of the 4 flashes in the > Cometflash pattern although I'm not sure about this....and have no way of > comparing it to the aviation system Vans sells. Flash rate is 140 per > min....is this too fast? > > The archives contain posts about Galls and ISSPRO systems that use a > single power supply to drive 4 strobes but I haven't found specs on these > either. > > If anyone has found something that will work for 3 bulbs, and has specs, > let me know. > > --Mark Navratil > Cedar Rapids, Iowa > RV-8A > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BSEckstein(at)cs.com
Date: Oct 31, 2000
Subject: Re: Bendix Servo and Mixture Cable
In the first issue 2000 of RVator, there is reference to a throttle cable bracket for IO-360 made by Aviat. When I called them to order it, I asked if they had a mixture bracket too. They did and it only cost $3.29. It is mounted on my engine, but I have not yet purchased a mixture cable. It looks like it should work, with the cable skimming under the exhaust. The firesleeve suggestion along with an exhaust shield is good advise. Even if it doesn't work, it may be useful in any mount I have to fabricate. Call Aviat at 307 886-3151 and ask for part number 32660. They had it in stock when I ordered and it came if a few days. Brian Eckstein ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2000
From: Scott <acepilot(at)win.bright.net>
Subject: Re: While were on the subject of RF...
Wouldn't hurt...if you're really comfortable working inside the Box (if possible), try soldering in a 0.001 uF capacitor from Base to Emitter of the transistor(s) in there...that will shunt the RF around the tranny rather than through it. Do you have a schematic??? If so, I might be able to offer other fixes as well. Scott ex-avioniker Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote: > > > Has anyone had any problems with RF from their com getting into their > dimmers? I'm using the stock dimmer unit from Van's and every time I key > my mic my cabin/instrument lights go out. Obviously the signal from the > transmitter is swamping the dimmer transistor but it all appears to be > grounded properly. Lots of power from the battery and nice big wires > feeding the dimmer unit. Do I need to put the dimmer in a metal box? > > I just love this stuff, > > - Jim Andrews > RV-8A ( cowl and systems check out ) > O-360 Sensenich 85 > N89JA reserved > -- --Scott-- 1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642 http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/ RV-4 under construction (tail feathers) Gotta Fly or Gonna Die! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 31, 2000
From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Dimpled Nut Plate Question
So here's the question...where exactly do I find the info describing that the 'K' means a dimpled rivet hole.. I looked in the AC 43.13 but did not find this particular piece of info (YET). Could somebody shed some light here please thanks Gert > needs are too. I think that you're looking for NAS685A08 this has a dimple > for the screw - add the suffix K to the end and you'll have one dimpled for > the rivets also. > > -- Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Oct 31, 2000
Subject: Re: RV6 Slider Rail Fairing
In a message dated 10/30/00 9:56:56 AM Pacific Standard Time, panamared(at)brier.net writes: << As I recalled, I paid $10.00 and flew all the way from Houston Texas to get it. However, it is great bargain at any price! I have received numerous requests for the fairing, so I think there is a market, if you can make some more. >> Bob- Your recollection is interesting and possibly true. Never let it be said that I turned my back on the faithful. I'll see what I can do to fabricate some more and notify the list. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 31, 2000
Subject: For Sale
From: Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com>
RV-4/6/6A/8/8A standard flat top wingtips. Also Simple Wingtip Lens Kit (Van's part number LN clear lens kit). Van's price for these items is over $260.00. I am asking $100.00. Reason for selling. I bought a set of wingtips from Team Rocket. Please respond to me off list or phone (845) 227 8527 Tony Castellano tcastella(at)juno.com Hopewell Junction, NY RV-6 N401TC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com>
Subject: RV6 Slider Rail Fairing
Date: Oct 31, 2000
Is there a picture of it somewhere? Would it be the same application as for the 9? Greg Tanner RV-9A Empennage SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Vanremog(at)AOL.COM Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2000 6:43 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6 Slider Rail Fairing In a message dated 10/30/00 9:56:56 AM Pacific Standard Time, panamared(at)brier.net writes: << As I recalled, I paid $10.00 and flew all the way from Houston Texas to get it. However, it is great bargain at any price! I have received numerous requests for the fairing, so I think there is a market, if you can make some more. >> Bob- Your recollection is interesting and possibly true. Never let it be said that I turned my back on the faithful. I'll see what I can do to fabricate some more and notify the list. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Oct 31, 2000
Subject: Re: RV6 Slider Rail Fairing
In a message dated 10/31/00 6:53:24 PM Pacific Standard Time, gtanner(at)bendcable.com writes: << Is there a picture of it somewhere? Would it be the same application as for the 9? >> Yes, they will work for the 6/6A/9A. I will see if I can get more made. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 31, 2000
From: Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: need help on bleeding the brakes
If the bubble is in the line connecting the cylinders, then it's the low pressure side of the pilot's brakes and the high pressure side of the co-pilot's brakes-assuming that Van's series plumbing was followed. Therefore it would only affect the co-pilot's brakes. Dave Dennis Persyk wrote: > > -----Original Message----- > From: KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM <KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Monday, October 30, 2000 9:16 PM > Subject: Re: RV-List: need help on bleeding the brakes > > > > >In a message dated 10/30/00 8:53:05 PM Eastern Standard Time, > >dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes: > > > >> I observed exactly the same effect with my 6A dual brake system. The > bubble > >> takes overnight to appear. I have consulted several local RV flyers and > >> builders and they have pumped my brakes and concur that there is no > undue > >> sponginess. I can see the bubble shrink when I apply brakes. > > > >Isn't this bubble between the cylinder(s) and the reservoir? This would > >place it on the low pressure side of the system, and it wouldn't cause any > >spongienesss at all. > > > >I got one too... > > > >Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA > >RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth > > The bubble is on the high pressure side of a dual brake system, ref 6A > Drawing 49, R4, in the vicinity of the 44 NSR tube callout. The bubble is > at the top of the arc of the lines connecting the cylinders. > > Dennis Persyk > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jerryb" <jerryb(at)point.total-web.net>
Subject: Insurance
Date: Oct 31, 2000
Hello All, I just got a notice that my Insurance Co. is not gonna renew Ins. on experimentals. I need some advice and companies that insure RV's. Phone numbers would also be helpful. Thanks, JerryB RV6 N40JP ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Strobe Power Supplies
Date: Oct 31, 2000
I just recieved my power supply, a Double Dual Magnum, from Kuntzleman Electronics... http://www.kestrobes.com/New/Doublex.html I had talked with Dick Kuntzleman a few times on the phone and via e-mail, and had gotten advice from other sources before I made the purchase... The PS is very light and small, so small in fact, I will be mounting it vertically to one of the F-814 seat ribs in my -8A... Dick told me the PS puts out 14 joules... I got the PS and shielded wring harnesses for $159. It will be powering a pair of Whelen A600 all-in-one wing tip units. I will post pictures of the installation to my website soon... Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage http://vondane.com/rv8a/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 31, 2000
Subject: Re: Aeroflash light assemblies needed without power supply
From: czechsix(at)juno.com
I talked to Mark at Team Rocket today....he was very helpful and put in an order with Aeroflash for the strobe/nav light assemblies, $95 a piece (compared to $120 for Whelen's units). Thanks, --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A.........strobes......etc writes: > Did you try talking to Mark Frederick at Team Rocket? Mark is a >dealer >for Aeroflash. > >Mike Wills >RV4 firewall forward >willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil > > >> >>Listers, >> >>Does anyone know where I could get the Aeroflash strobe/nav light >units >>WITHOUT the power supplies? I'd like to use these on my wingtips and >all >>the companies I've called (including AC Spruce) will sell the whole >>system, but not the lights by themselves. What do you do if you >break a >>lens on an Aeroflash system.....buy a whole new system? I called >>Aeroflash and they said they don't sell stuff directly, and told me >to >>call AC Spruce! >> >>Whelen sells their light assemblies separately from the power >supplies >>but I'm assuming the Aeroflash units will be cheaper, IF I can buy >them >>somewhere. >> >>Thanks, >> >>--Mark Navratil >>Cedar Rapids, Iowa >>RV-8A >> >> >> >> >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator Weight
> > I just received my alternator kit from Van's. I was very surprised at >how heavy it was. I thought this was supposed to be a "light weight" >alternator. Are the automotive alternators many of you are using lighter >and/or smaller than this? If so, I think I will convert. I believe a NiponDienso 40A machine weighs about 6.5 pounds but I don't recall if that includes the mounting bracket. Call B&C at 316.283.8000 and ask Todd what the weights of the 40 and 60 amp machines are and if their weights include mounting hardware. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different from ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Dimpled Nut Plate Question
Date: Nov 01, 2000
The 'K' info came direct from Alvin at Aircraft Supply. The catalog itseld mentions a 'C' (maybe for countersunk?). I initially tried to order them that way - we got it straight during the discussion that ensued. Ralph Capen ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: FL Panhandle RV's
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Hello Rusty, Craig, & others in the FL panhandle, I'm taking Friday off work & plan to enjoy this excellent weather we are having here in the SE by planning a small trip to the FL panhandle. I'd like to get together some other RVer's on Friday and/or Saturday. Not firm on where I'm going yet but thinking of Destin and/or St. George Is. If you respond, I'll meet up with you on your home turf. Perhaps you locals can suggest a good place to fly into. For you builders up there, speak up, here's a chance for a ride in a -6. Saturday afternoon I have to take my wife over to JAX to meet up with her sister. I plan to fly into Hurlong Field. Then perhaps go down to St. Augustine for Sunday. Rick Caldwell -6 Melbourne, FL 142 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "skybolt-aviator" <skybolt-aviator(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Insurance
Date: Nov 01, 2000
For RVs--Nation Air 636 532 0023----Very good rate. ----- Original Message ----- From: "jerryb" <jerryb(at)point.total-web.net> Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2000 10:50 PM Subject: RV-List: Insurance > > Hello All, > I just got a notice that my Insurance Co. is not gonna renew > Ins. on > experimentals. > I need some advice and companies that insure RV's. Phone > numbers would > also be helpful. > Thanks, JerryB > RV6 N40JP > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2000
From: old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
Subject: engines?
I amcontemplating the purchase of a RV8A kit...can anyone tell me what 0320 engine/engines will fit this airframe?...I wish to stay with a carb-type engine, and I heard something about oil pump/housing/gears..can anyone point the ad# out for me..one other thing...I heard also that the bendis mags now have a nasty ad against them also..is this true...thanks from a newcomer...jolly in aurora...do not archive ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com>
Subject: putting screws in platenuts
Date: Nov 01, 2000
I bought an RV-4 project with wings and tail already complete. Working on the fuse now. My question: is it always difficult to put the screws in the platenuts? I am installing the F-419 forward top skin on the -4, and some of the screws just won't screw all the way into the platenut, it gets so tight that I strip out the screw driver slot. What am I doing wrong? any comments or suggestions would be appreciated. Larry Hawkins RV-4 Farmington NM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2000
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Well it's November..................
Well folks, I hate to spring this on you without much advance warning and all but it's November already. For you newer List members you may not know but this is the time of year we all give "thanks" for all that Matte Dralle has done for us with this RV-List. the customary way of saying "thanks" is with a voluntary donation of cash through Matte's own simple and safe contribution hot-line at: http://www.matronics.com/contribution It's really rather painless and actually gives you a good warm and fuzzy feeling inside after you have made your contribution. Now last year I relied heavily on guilt to get some of you harder nuts to crack to ante up. This year I hope that in keeping with the election year theme I can learn something from the experts........"It's for the children." Yes your contribution will help children everywhere learn about the high moral values that are inherent in the RV family of aircraft. As our young charges surf the Internet for information on various things that we don't want them to know about, they may stumble across the Matronics Website and become aware of the RV-List and other interesting forums that Matte provides. This in turn may change there lives as they see what can be achieved through hard work and perseverance. They will learn how the polite exchange of idea's between consenting adults can result in the birth of one (or more) of the finest aircraft in existence today. They can become aware of a whole world out there that had previously been unknown or out of reach to them. So in the interest of our children, send your contribution to Matte to help the RV-List live long and prosper.............Darn, got my tongue caught in my cheek there for a moment. Once again, you can make your contribution through credit card at: http://www.matronics.com/contribution c/o Matte Dralle Matronics P.O. Box 347 Livermore, CA. 94551 I would like to pledge at this time that I will not place any negative advertising in the hope of raising funds for RV-List support. (Unless you folks hold out too long, then look out!) Let's have a real clean campaign this November and get out the contributions! AL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: OrndorffG(at)AOL.COM
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Subject: Re: Insurance
Call Mac McGee at Aviation Underwriting Agency (AUA). The number is 800-727-2823. We've been pleased with the service for years and his rates are good! Tell him George and Becki referred you to him. Becki Orndorff ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2000
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: putting screws in platenuts
Larry Hawkins wrote: > > > I bought an RV-4 project with wings and tail already complete. Working on > the fuse now. My question: is it always difficult to put the screws in the > platenuts? I am installing the F-419 forward top skin on the -4, and some > of the screws just won't screw all the way into the platenut, it gets so > tight that I strip out the screw driver slot. What am I doing wrong? any > comments or suggestions would be appreciated. > Larry Hawkins RV-4 Farmington NM > Larry, get some Boelube, a dry lubricate available from several sources including Cleaveland Aircraft Tools. Drag the threads of the screw across the Boelube and the screws will go into the plate nuts with no difficulty. No, the lube will not diminish the locking ability of the plate nuts. By the way, Boelube works great on cowl hinge pins as well! Sam Buchanan (RV-6) "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: engines?
Date: Nov 01, 2000
>I amcontemplating the purchase of a RV8A kit...can anyone tell me what >0320 engine/engines will fit this airframe?...I wish to stay with a >carb-type engine, and I heard something about oil >pump/housing/gears..can anyone point the ad# out for me..one other >thing...I heard also that the bendis mags now have a nasty ad against >them also..is this true...thanks from a newcomer...jolly in aurora...do >not archive > Jolly, Most O-320's will fit as long as they have a bottom mount, updraft carburetor (on the oil sump) and aft mounted accessories. As far as specific AD issues, that needs to be addressed with each engine model number. Can't really tell you what models to avoid as just about all of them can be made to work with some mods. Don't sweat the engine stuff right now. Unless you have one you're looking at now with an enticing price tag? I have Bendix mags and they work fine. Don't know about any major AD issue with them. I do plan to replace them with Slicks or electronic within the next year since they are getting pretty old. Good luck, Brian Denk RV8 N94BD 147 hrs. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com>
Subject: Strobe Power Supplies
Date: Nov 01, 2000
5.0.3 (Intl)|21 March 2000) at 11/01/2000 09:05:28 AM Bill, I investigated the Kuntzleman option also. If I were going with only two strobes and lower power I would buy his unit since (according to him at least) it is lighter than the Aeroflash units, puts out 14 joules vs. 10 or 11 for Aeroflash, and somehow still draws less current than the Aeroflash system. If the specs I've seen are correct it sounds like the Aeroflash power supplies are not very efficient....Whelen's system also appears to be way more efficient in terms of joules delivered to the strobe vs amperage required from your electrical system. Since I want at least 20 joules and preferably 3 strobes, Kuntzleman's supply won't work for me. --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)peoplepc.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Strobe Power Supplies I just recieved my power supply, a Double Dual Magnum, from Kuntzleman Electronics... http://www.kestrobes.com/New/Doublex.html I had talked with Dick Kuntzleman a few times on the phone and via e-mail, and had gotten advice from other sources before I made the purchase... The PS is very light and small, so small in fact, I will be mounting it vertically to one of the F-814 seat ribs in my -8A... Dick told me the PS puts out 14 joules... I got the PS and shielded wring harnesses for $159. It will be powering a pair of Whelen A600 all-in-one wing tip units. I will post pictures of the installation to my website soon... Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage http://vondane.com/rv8a/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Subject: Re: Insurance
In a message dated 10/31/00 7:53:00 PM Pacific Standard Time, jerryb(at)point.total-web.net writes: << My Insurance Co. is not gonna renew Ins. on Experimentals. I need some advice and companies that insure RV's. Phone numbers would also be helpful. >> Lots of them listed in the RV Builders' Yeller Pages. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: putting screws in platenuts
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Hi Larry, You are right on. The platenuts are deformed a bit to hold the screw tight. I use hardened steel screws which hold up better. But keep in mind they have to painted unlike stainless. Jack Des Moines, IA RV8 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Hawkins Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 8:14 AM Subject: RV-List: putting screws in platenuts I bought an RV-4 project with wings and tail already complete. Working on the fuse now. My question: is it always difficult to put the screws in the platenuts? I am installing the F-419 forward top skin on the -4, and some of the screws just won't screw all the way into the platenut, it gets so tight that I strip out the screw driver slot. What am I doing wrong? any comments or suggestions would be appreciated. Larry Hawkins RV-4 Farmington NM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2000
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator Weight
Ted Lumpkin wrote: > > > I just received my alternator kit from Van's. I was very surprised at > how heavy it was. I thought this was supposed to be a "light weight" > alternator. Are the automotive alternators many of you are using lighter > and/or smaller than this? If so, I think I will convert. > > Ted Lumpkin > RV-4 Ted, "lightweight" is relative! Put the Vans alternator in one hand and the standard, certificated, 60 amp Motorcraft unit in the other and you will see why the ND is "lightweight". Robin Hunt is running a tiny little 65 amp alternator in his RV8 that is for a Geo Metro/Sprint. It is the smallest automotive alternator I have seen and has internal regulation which you may or may not want. However, I doubt that you will find an alternator that weighs much less than the Vans/ND unit. Good luck, Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with Vans alternator) "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal ________________________________________________________________________________ User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Subject: Re: putting screws in platenuts
From: "Denis (Bum) Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net>
Yes. Nothing. Lubricate: Boelube or tapping fluid are good. Get a hex head screw at hardware store and pre screw those dudes. The socket (hex key) head screw can be driven with your electric screwdriver :+). O yeh the longer those steel platenuts have been sitting aruond the tougher they get. As to the danger of 'loosening' them up to much. Never happens. Good luck > From: Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> > Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 07:13:54 -0700 > To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com '" > Subject: RV-List: putting screws in platenuts > > > I bought an RV-4 project with wings and tail already complete. Working on > the fuse now. My question: is it always difficult to put the screws in the > platenuts? I am installing the F-419 forward top skin on the -4, and some > of the screws just won't screw all the way into the platenut, it gets so > tight that I strip out the screw driver slot. What am I doing wrong? any > comments or suggestions would be appreciated. > Larry Hawkins RV-4 Farmington NM > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Subject: Re: putting screws in platenuts
Larry, I lubricate the screws with fuellube (Aircraft Spruce) works great for me. Kevin in WA -9A starting fuse ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2000
From: Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
Subject: Strobe Power Supplies
Someone else asked me about a 3 strobe PS last night... I bet Dick would make one if the demand was there... I will shoot him an e-mail... -Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 7:59 AM Subject: RV-List: Strobe Power Supplies Bill, I investigated the Kuntzleman option also. If I were going with only two strobes and lower power I would buy his unit since (according to him at least) it is lighter than the Aeroflash units, puts out 14 joules vs. 10 or 11 for Aeroflash, and somehow still draws less current than the Aeroflash system. If the specs I've seen are correct it sounds like the Aeroflash power supplies are not very efficient....Whelen's system also appears to be way more efficient in terms of joules delivered to the strobe vs amperage required from your electrical system. Since I want at least 20 joules and preferably 3 strobes, Kuntzleman's supply won't work for me. --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "rlluster" <rlluster(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 76 Msgs - 10/31/00
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Listers, I am building an RV9, and am looking to put a Lycoming 320 in it. In looking at the many used or rebuild engines I need direction as to what the various letters mean. If there is a site with this info, it would be helpful. I have already gone to the Lycoming site, and did not find the definitions. Thanks Richard Luster Marysville, Wa wings, fuse on order ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com>
Subject: putting screws in platenuts
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Try some Beolube on the screws. It's available from Avery's. Ed Cole Maxim Integrated Products Bldg. 120 Ext. 6605 > -----Original Message----- > From: Larry Hawkins [SMTP:lhawkins(at)giant.com] > Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 6:14 AM > To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com ' > Subject: RV-List: putting screws in platenuts > > > I bought an RV-4 project with wings and tail already complete. Working on > the fuse now. My question: is it always difficult to put the screws in the > platenuts? I am installing the F-419 forward top skin on the -4, and some > of the screws just won't screw all the way into the platenut, it gets so > tight that I strip out the screw driver slot. What am I doing wrong? any > comments or suggestions would be appreciated. > Larry Hawkins RV-4 Farmington NM > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bruce Meacham <bruceme(at)exmsft.com>
Subject: RVator online?
Date: Nov 01, 2000
I remember the old (sigh) RV Source had a great section on old RVators. Is there any other source for RVators online? Specifically I'm looking for an older RVator on using LED's for instrument lighting. Bruce Meacham bruceme(at)exmsft.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2000
From: old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: engines?
thanks Brian Denk wrote: > > >I amcontemplating the purchase of a RV8A kit...can anyone tell me what > >0320 engine/engines will fit this airframe?...I wish to stay with a > >carb-type engine, and I heard something about oil > >pump/housing/gears..can anyone point the ad# out for me..one other > >thing...I heard also that the bendis mags now have a nasty ad against > >them also..is this true...thanks from a newcomer...jolly in aurora...do > >not archive > > > Jolly, > > Most O-320's will fit as long as they have a bottom mount, updraft > carburetor (on the oil sump) and aft mounted accessories. As far as > specific AD issues, that needs to be addressed with each engine model > number. Can't really tell you what models to avoid as just about all of them > can be made to work with some mods. Don't sweat the engine stuff right now. > Unless you have one you're looking at now with an enticing price tag? > > I have Bendix mags and they work fine. Don't know about any major AD issue > with them. I do plan to replace them with Slicks or electronic within the > next year since they are getting pretty old. > > Good luck, > > Brian Denk > RV8 N94BD > 147 hrs. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2000
From: Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: Re: Ski Racks
A few years ago I mentioned a similar ski rack idea to someone at Van's. I think it might have been Bill. Anyway, he had CG concerns about placing objects aft of the baggage compartment. His recommendation instead was to get a large piece of PVC tubing, close off the ends with something resembling a spinner and attach it externally to the belly of the plane, sort of like a drop tank. I like this idea, but have been thinking about ways to do it better. For example, rather than some ugly and heavy piece of PVC tubing, I am thinking about making a nice aerodynamically shaped custom pod from composites. This could hang by two simple brackets attached to the fuselage floor angles so it could be easily attached or removed when you want to use it. It would mount forward enough to not be affected by the heat of the exhaust blast, and can be long enough so as not to scrape the ground during landing. Tail draggers might have a problem with this, but nose wheel folks should be able to get it long enough for skiis with sufficient clearance. What I'm wondering is how this might affect in-flight handling of the plane. I've heard military AWACs pilots who fly with that huge radar disc on top of their planes saying that they don't even know it's there. The pod could be shaped in two ways. One, symetrically and aerodynamically for minimum drag, or two as an airfoil to build some extra lift to compensate for the weight of the pod. As a complete amatuer in this type of thing, I tend to favor aerodynamically (not as an airfoil) to minimize stresses on the mounting brackets. Having a single bracket fail with this thing hanging in the breeze could definitely ruin one's flight. Your thoughts? Andy ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Strobe Power Supplies-replacement parts
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Nov 01, 2000
11/01/2000 12:43:13 PM Can anyone comment on spare or replacement strobe tubes for the AeroFlash units. The Wheelen strobe replacement tubes can be purchaced from a number of sources. I can't seem to find replacement tubes for the Aero Flash Units. I am asking because I too am ready to buy, and the AeroFlash units are cheeper to purchace (new). But I am looking a few years into the future and If I need replacement flash tubes.....I can't find any today......Any comments from the crowd.... (at)matronics.com on 11/01/2000 09:59:07 AM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com cc: Subject: RV-List: Strobe Power Supplies Bill, I investigated the Kuntzleman option also. If I were going with only two strobes and lower power I would buy his unit since (according to him at least) it is lighter than the Aeroflash units, puts out 14 joules vs. 10 or 11 for Aeroflash, and somehow still draws less current than the Aeroflash system. If the specs I've seen are correct it sounds like the Aeroflash power supplies are not very efficient....Whelen's system also appears to be way more efficient in terms of joules delivered to the strobe vs amperage required from your electrical system. Since I want at least 20 joules and preferably 3 strobes, Kuntzleman's supply won't work for me. --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)peoplepc.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Strobe Power Supplies I just recieved my power supply, a Double Dual Magnum, from Kuntzleman Electronics... http://www.kestrobes.com/New/Doublex.html I had talked with Dick Kuntzleman a few times on the phone and via e-mail, and had gotten advice from other sources before I made the purchase... The PS is very light and small, so small in fact, I will be mounting it vertically to one of the F-814 seat ribs in my -8A... Dick told me the PS puts out 14 joules... I got the PS and shielded wring harnesses for $159. It will be powering a pair of Whelen A600 all-in-one wing tip units. I will post pictures of the installation to my website soon... Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage http://vondane.com/rv8a/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)AOL.COM
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Subject: Re: putting screws in platenuts
In a message dated 11/1/00 6:10:14 AM Pacific Standard Time, lhawkins(at)giant.com writes: << , it gets so tight that I strip out the screw driver slot. >> Try putting a dab of grease (Lubriplate works great) on the tip of the screw the first time you run it into the nutplate. Works good for me> Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, working on canopy installation ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Subject: A Season of Giving - Please Support Your List!
Dear Listers, As my good friend Al Mojzisik from the RV-List forum has pointed out in his humorous style this morning, its time for the Annual List Fund Raiser! For those that are new to the Lists since last year, I'd like to just mention what its all about. I have always run the List services here completely free of charge to the members. This includes the Email Lists, Archive Search Engine, as well as some of the other goodies found on the servers. My policy has always been that I will never charge a 'fee' to sign up for any of the email Lists and I have also turned down a number potentially lucrative of 'commercial' offers to provide advertising space either on the various web pages or on in each of the outgoing emails. I have always graciously declined these offers, however, because I have felt that the friendly, homey feeling of the commercial-free site was very appealing. I have also felt that offering the services here for free is the best way to stimulate the greatest membership, and in my opinion, this is the most important element in the success of a forum such as this. So, once again, I will restate my commitment to always keeping all of the services here on the Matronics servers free to everyone. That being said, I must also say that running this system is far from free for me, however. I am continually trying to provide the best, most reliable service possible and have continued to upgrade the systems as necessary to maintain or improve the level of service I provide. Quite aside from the "real costs" involved in the maintenance of a service like this, however, is the time commitment necessary to keep everything running and time required to produce new and improved software enhancements to make the whole experience more enjoyable for everyone. On the average I spend 10 to 20 hours a week handling subscription requests and related problems, maintaining the existing computer code base, and developing new utilities for the List community. The whole List site (web server and email server) continue to run across the 768kb/sec DSL-based Internet connection. Connections to the servers have generally been pretty reliable and performance has been good. Up time for the connection has approached the 99% mark. If you regularly enjoy the services provided here, I would ask that you make a Contribution in any amount in which you are comfortable. Your Contribution will be used to directly support the continued operation and improvement of all these services, and as always, I will turn your Contributions back into more upgrades and improvements. It is truly an investment in the future of these Lists. To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard, please go to the following URL and follow the simple instructions: http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to: c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 As I have done in the past, I will post a "Contributors List" at the end of the Fund Raiser, personally acknowledging each and everyone that has generously made a Contribution this year! Finally, I just want to say *Thank You* to everyone that has supported me and my operation here this year. Your support and encouragement means a great deal to me and I feel like I have friends literally from all around the world! Sincerely, Matt Dralle Your Email List Administrator dralle(at)matronics.com =========================================================================== >-------------- > >Well folks, > >I hate to spring this on you without much advance warning and all but it's >November already. For you newer List members you may not know but this is >the time of year we all give "thanks" for all that Matte Dralle has done >for us with this RV-List. the customary way of saying "thanks" is with a >voluntary donation of cash through Matte's own simple and safe contribution >hot-line at: > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > >It's really rather painless and actually gives you a good warm and fuzzy >feeling inside after you have made your contribution. Now last year I >relied heavily on guilt to get some of you harder nuts to crack to ante >up. This year I hope that in keeping with the election year theme I can >learn something from the experts........"It's for the children." > >Yes your contribution will help children everywhere learn about the high >moral values that are inherent in the RV family of aircraft. As our young >charges surf the Internet for information on various things that we don't >want them to know about, they may stumble across the Matronics Website and >become aware of the RV-List and other interesting forums that Matte >provides. This in turn may change there lives as they see what can be >achieved through hard work and perseverance. They will learn how the polite >exchange of idea's between consenting adults can result in the birth of one >(or more) of the finest aircraft in existence today. They can become aware >of a whole world out there that had previously been unknown or out of reach >to them. So in the interest of our children, send your contribution to >Matte to help the RV-List live long and prosper.............Darn, got my >tongue caught in my cheek there for a moment. > >Once again, you can make your contribution through credit card at: > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > c/o Matt Dralle > Matronics > P.O. Box 347 > Livermore, CA. 94551 > >I would like to pledge at this time that I will not place any negative >advertising in the hope of raising funds for RV-List support. (Unless you >folks hold out too long, then look out!) Let's have a real clean campaign >this November and get out the contributions! AL >-------------- -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Ski Racks-idea
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Nov 01, 2000
11/01/2000 01:33:07 PM For an idea start with a single pressure recovery wheel fairing from Vans or Sam James (Sam's are a bit bigger) Simply use the front of the fairing for the nose of your Ski-tube and the rear of the fairing for the rear of the Ski-tube. Knowing Vans designs, you will probably gain some speed & need to repitch your prop for more bite...... Andy (at)matronics.com on 11/01/2000 12:24:46 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com cc: Subject: RV-List: Re: Ski Racks A few years ago I mentioned a similar ski rack idea to someone at Van's. I think it might have been Bill. Anyway, he had CG concerns about placing objects aft of the baggage compartment. His recommendation instead was to get a large piece of PVC tubing, close off the ends with something resembling a spinner and attach it externally to the belly of the plane, sort of like a drop tank. I like this idea, but have been thinking about ways to do it better. For example, rather than some ugly and heavy piece of PVC tubing, I am thinking about making a nice aerodynamically shaped custom pod from composites. This could hang by two simple brackets attached to the fuselage floor angles so it could be easily attached or removed when you want to use it. It would mount forward enough to not be affected by the heat of the exhaust blast, and can be long enough so as not to scrape the ground during landing. Tail draggers might have a problem with this, but nose wheel folks should be able to get it long enough for skiis with sufficient clearance. What I'm wondering is how this might affect in-flight handling of the plane. I've heard military AWACs pilots who fly with that huge radar disc on top of their planes saying that they don't even know it's there. The pod could be shaped in two ways. One, symetrically and aerodynamically for minimum drag, or two as an airfoil to build some extra lift to compensate for the weight of the pod. As a complete amatuer in this type of thing, I tend to favor aerodynamically (not as an airfoil) to minimize stresses on the mounting brackets. Having a single bracket fail with this thing hanging in the breeze could definitely ruin one's flight. Your thoughts? Andy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2000
From: "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: 10% for Matronics
Builder's Bookstore and eCharts is happy to do again, what we did successfully last year. That is to donate a portion of our sales for the month of November to the maintenance of the RV-list. 10% FOR MATRONICS Starting now, 10% of any purchase from either Builder's Bookstore or eCharts will be put aside as a donation to the RV-list, as our thanks for this excellent resource for RV builders and pilots. We will run this special throughout November with a check for the total amount presented to Matt on December 1st 2000. To designate your share, please write the words "10% for Matronics" in the Special Instructions box on the on-line order form. Or, if you order something by phone, just tell me when you call. Thank you Matt for this excellent service. Andy Gold Builder's Bookstore http://buildersbooks.com eCharts http://eCharts.cc ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gar & Jan Pessel" <pessel(at)ptialaska.net>
Subject: PTT switch wire run
Date: Nov 01, 2000
I am planning to put PTT switches in both sticks in my RV6. Where do folks generally run the wires out of the stick? I am inclined to drill a hole near the center of rotation for the stick, but this would require a bushing. The smallest bushings I have require a 3/8 inch hole, which seems like a large hole in the stick. Any suggestions? Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, AK (preparing to install the engine next week) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Insurance
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Insurance Thread-Index: AcBEHAXJutp/S6MAQeeJsAJRSGWuPwAGdDPQ
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
I just got insurance on my bird last week from Scott Sky Smith. $1462 (AIG) $60,000 hull, $100 deductibles. He's in the yeller pages. Bob Japundza RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 53 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com>
Subject: RE: RV4-List: A Season of Giving - Please Support Your List!
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Matt I happily submitted my contribution this morning because I would hate to think about building without the help from the builders that are willing and anxious to help people like me. I also enjoy the letters about flying from the people that have finished their RV's. Thanks to all. Get those contributions sent in, it's easy and painless, and money well spent. Larry Hawkins, RV-4 fuse Farmington,NM -----Original Message----- From: dralle(at)matronics.com [mailto:dralle(at)matronics.com] Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 11:23 AM Subject: RV4-List: A Season of Giving - Please Support Your List! --> RV4-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) Dear Listers, As my good friend Al Mojzisik from the RV-List forum has pointed out in his humorous style this morning, its time for the Annual List Fund Raiser! For those that are new to the Lists since last year, I'd like to just mention what its all about. I have always run the List services here completely free of charge to the members. This includes the Email Lists, Archive Search Engine, as well as some of the other goodies found on the servers. My policy has always been that I will never charge a 'fee' to sign up for any of the email Lists and I have also turned down a number potentially lucrative of 'commercial' offers to provide advertising space either on the various web pages or on in each of the outgoing emails. I have always graciously declined these offers, however, because I have felt that the friendly, homey feeling of the commercial-free site was very appealing. I have also felt that offering the services here for free is the best way to stimulate the greatest membership, and in my opinion, this is the most important element in the success of a forum such as this. So, once again, I will restate my commitment to always keeping all of the services here on the Matronics servers free to everyone. That being said, I must also say that running this system is far from free for me, however. I am continually trying to provide the best, most reliable service possible and have continued to upgrade the systems as necessary to maintain or improve the level of service I provide. Quite aside from the "real costs" involved in the maintenance of a service like this, however, is the time commitment necessary to keep everything running and time required to produce new and improved software enhancements to make the whole experience more enjoyable for everyone. On the average I spend 10 to 20 hours a week handling subscription requests and related problems, maintaining the existing computer code base, and developing new utilities for the List community. The whole List site (web server and email server) continue to run across the 768kb/sec DSL-based Internet connection. Connections to the servers have generally been pretty reliable and performance has been good. Up time for the connection has approached the 99% mark. If you regularly enjoy the services provided here, I would ask that you make a Contribution in any amount in which you are comfortable. Your Contribution will be used to directly support the continued operation and improvement of all these services, and as always, I will turn your Contributions back into more upgrades and improvements. It is truly an investment in the future of these Lists. To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard, please go to the following URL and follow the simple instructions: http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to: c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 As I have done in the past, I will post a "Contributors List" at the end of the Fund Raiser, personally acknowledging each and everyone that has generously made a Contribution this year! Finally, I just want to say *Thank You* to everyone that has supported me and my operation here this year. Your support and encouragement means a great deal to me and I feel like I have friends literally from all around the world! Sincerely, Matt Dralle Your Email List Administrator dralle(at)matronics.com =========================================================================== >-------------- > >Well folks, > >I hate to spring this on you without much advance warning and all but it's >November already. For you newer List members you may not know but this is >the time of year we all give "thanks" for all that Matte Dralle has done >for us with this RV-List. the customary way of saying "thanks" is with a >voluntary donation of cash through Matte's own simple and safe contribution >hot-line at: > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > >It's really rather painless and actually gives you a good warm and fuzzy >feeling inside after you have made your contribution. Now last year I >relied heavily on guilt to get some of you harder nuts to crack to ante >up. This year I hope that in keeping with the election year theme I can >learn something from the experts........"It's for the children." > >Yes your contribution will help children everywhere learn about the high >moral values that are inherent in the RV family of aircraft. As our young >charges surf the Internet for information on various things that we don't >want them to know about, they may stumble across the Matronics Website and >become aware of the RV-List and other interesting forums that Matte >provides. This in turn may change there lives as they see what can be >achieved through hard work and perseverance. They will learn how the polite >exchange of idea's between consenting adults can result in the birth of one >(or more) of the finest aircraft in existence today. They can become aware >of a whole world out there that had previously been unknown or out of reach >to them. So in the interest of our children, send your contribution to >Matte to help the RV-List live long and prosper.............Darn, got my >tongue caught in my cheek there for a moment. > >Once again, you can make your contribution through credit card at: > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > c/o Matt Dralle > Matronics > P.O. Box 347 > Livermore, CA. 94551 > >I would like to pledge at this time that I will not place any negative >advertising in the hope of raising funds for RV-List support. (Unless you >folks hold out too long, then look out!) Let's have a real clean campaign >this November and get out the contributions! AL >-------------- -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Subject: bulkhead fitting drill size
From: "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com>
Can someone tell me where to find the appropriate drill size for an AN832-4D bulkhead union? Also, how far apart should the fittings be on the f-6122? I assume pretty close to lessen the chance of the hoses rubbing on the angles. thanks Robert Dickson Fayetteville NC RV-6A, brakes ________________________________________________________________________________ User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Subject: Re: PTT switch wire run
From: "Denis (Bum) Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net>
That's what I did. Two suggestions: Use AWG 22 tefzel wire. You need the toughness. Second, beware where you drill the hole. What looked great to me was just where it whacked the hole in the floor. I had clearance when I cut the hole but it grew with the wires/ Duh. > From: "Gar & Jan Pessel" <pessel(at)ptialaska.net> > Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 09:59:34 -0900 > To: > Subject: RV-List: PTT switch wire run > > > I am planning to put PTT switches in both sticks in my RV6. Where do folks > generally run the wires out of the stick? I am inclined to drill a hole > near the center of rotation for the stick, but this would require a bushing. > The smallest bushings I have require a 3/8 inch hole, which seems like a > large hole in the stick. Any suggestions? Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, AK > (preparing to install the engine next week) > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: Brake cyl plunger orientation was: bleeding brakes
Date: Nov 01, 2000
I need to correct myself. I checked my brakes last night and they are indeed mounted with the plungers up. This is a newer kit so that makes sense. Special thanks to Pat for sending me the brake mod instructions. Glad to know that I don't need to perform that mod. -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "ray sheffield" <1052a(at)prodigy.net>
Subject: king 135a
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Wanted used KLN-135a navcom used, tray and wiring harness not needed. please email off list ray 1052a(at)prodigy.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: PTT switch wire run
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Nov 01, 2000
11/01/2000 03:52:36 PM A very small grommet. "Gar & Jan Pessel" (at)matronics.com on 11/01/2000 01:59:34 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com cc: Subject: RV-List: PTT switch wire run I am planning to put PTT switches in both sticks in my RV6. Where do folks generally run the wires out of the stick? I am inclined to drill a hole near the center of rotation for the stick, but this would require a bushing. The smallest bushings I have require a 3/8 inch hole, which seems like a large hole in the stick. Any suggestions? Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, AK (preparing to install the engine next week) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Subject: Re: RV-List:TAYLORCRAFT BC12-D
posting for a friend new taylorcraft for sale less engine 12k. must see to appreciate. wings need covering. elderly gentalman has no time or energy. contact me if you want more details. scott rv6a tampa F &% &ing FIBER &%$& WHel 4a35 PAN%#2 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com>
Subject: Strobe Power Supplies
Date: Nov 01, 2000
5.0.3 (Intl)|21 March 2000) at 11/01/2000 03:13:48 PM >>From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> >>Subject: Re: RV-List: Strobe Power Supplies >> >> >>>> Dick told me the PS >>>> puts out 14 joules... >> >> >>I am trying to make a final descision on strobes. I would like to see a list >>of all the options and their power capabilities. For example, Whelen has two >>ways of putting strobes on the wings. The first have a power supply in each >>wing. ACS page 364 shows this supply at 34 joules. This must mean each >>light. The second way would be to have a central power supply. I am having >>trouble finding the output of one of these. The chart at the top says the >>A413 puts out 44 joules combined. Does that mean each light will only have >>22 joules? This pretty much sums up my frustration also. From all my research I think that a supply that delivers around 30 joules to each strobe is going to be pretty good....especially compared with Aeroflash which is 1/3 that amount of energy (side note: does anyone know how the actual brightness in effective candle power relates to the energy delivered to a strobe in joules???). If you ever find out whether the 44 joule combined energy from the Whelen system is divided up by the number of strobes you are running, or if you can actually get that for each strobe, let me know.... >>Either way the heavy price of the Whelens would seem to have some value in >>the extra punch. I live near a small airport and I have noticed that small >>aircraft have varrying levels of brightness in their strobes. Some are >>noticably brighter than others. Airliners are extremely bright. I'm still looking at a couple systems which *might* provide something close to Whelen (say 30 joules per strobe) at a similar weight and power demand but lower PRICE. One is a Galls system (the T-GR075) which is a quad-flash, 75 watt system drawing 7 amps and can fire 4 strobes for $199. This is half the price of the Whelen power supply that fires 3 strobes. What I don't know yet is how many joules it delivers to each strobe....if it's an efficient supply like Whelen's or Kuntzleman's, the power it is using suggests that it should be delivering at least that much energy (30-plus joules). If it's like Aeroflash's supply, it could be down around 10-15 joules, which is still an outstanding deal in my opinion but not the ultimate in brightness. ISS also sells several systems that look promising. The info I have on them shows some quad-flash multiple strobe systems putting out around 20 joules. I'm trying to figure out if they have anything closer to 30 joules. There's info in the archives (search ISSPRO) from a lister named Kevin who has been flying with such a system for several years. He says it was $179 for a supply similar in size/weight to Whelen that drives four strobes at 30 joules EACH, has quad flash pattern, hi/lo power option, etc. If they still sell a system like this for under $200, it's a no-brainer for me that this is what I'll use. >>Aeroflash (ACS p371) would appear to be around 1/3 the price but only 10 >>joules per light. The confusing bit here is that each strobe takes 2.0 amps >>where the Whelen wingtip power supplies take only 1.7 amps. How could they >>be so much brighter? If Dick Kuntzleman's tests are correct, it sounds like Aeroflash is very inefficient, since the Kuntzleman supply puts out 14 joules on 2 amps and the Aeroflash drivers put out 11.6 joules at 4 amps. Go figure. Maybe there's some misleading or confusing information here, but that's what I've seen so far. >>Is there new technology in the works? Is there any news on LED's or some >>thing else new? The only alternative to traditional strobes that I've found is a system using flashing halogens as a replacement for strobes on school buses and emergency vehicles, however it was bigger, heavier, and over $1000. If you discover something new and revolutionary, don't hesitate to share the info. >>If any one knows of any corrections or additions to this subject please step >>in. It would be good to put together a list of the available strobes with >>their prices, weights, joules and current draws. I agree. I sent an e-mail to Kitplanes Magazine a while back suggesting this as a good subject for research and an article. I'd do it myself if I could get my hands on the various strobe systems and some test equipment to measure brightness but it's out of my budget range to do that level of research for my own airplane. >>Regards, >>Norman Hunger >>RV6A Delta BC --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A....strobes...**....**....**....**....**....**....**....**....**.... **....**....**....!! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: Strobe Power Supplies
Date: Nov 01, 2000
I don't have it in front of me but I recall seeing the output in Whelen's documentation. It may even be in the ACS catalog. The joules per flash per strobe differs if you use syncronized or alternating flashes. I think you get 22 when sync'd and 30+ alternating but my memory is fuzzy on the exact numbers. Regards, Greg Young (Houston - DWH) RV-6 N6GY systems & wiring This pretty much sums up my frustration also. From all my research I think that a supply that delivers around 30 joules to each strobe is going to be pretty good....especially compared with Aeroflash which is 1/3 that amount of energy (side note: does anyone know how the actual brightness in effective candle power relates to the energy delivered to a strobe in joules???). If you ever find out whether the 44 joule combined energy from the Whelen system is divided up by the number of strobes you are running, or if you can actually get that for each strobe, let me know.... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net>
Subject: So. Cal visit
Date: Nov 01, 2000
I know this is sort of late notice, but, to those in the So. California area, I'll be heading out tomorrow to the Long Beach area. I'll have some time on my hands during the day next Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday if anyone wants to entertain a visit to look at their project or, even better, wants a co-pilot for a while. I'm always looking to take pictures and see new ideas. Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res) Plainfield, IL http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net>
Subject: Re: PTT switch wire run
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Hi Gar, A grommet?, or failing that some carefully applied silicone could get you there. jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: Gar & Jan Pessel <pessel(at)ptialaska.net> Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 10:59 AM Subject: RV-List: PTT switch wire run > > I am planning to put PTT switches in both sticks in my RV6. Where do folks > generally run the wires out of the stick? I am inclined to drill a hole > near the center of rotation for the stick, but this would require a bushing. > The smallest bushings I have require a 3/8 inch hole, which seems like a > large hole in the stick. Any suggestions? Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, AK > (preparing to install the engine next week) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net>
Subject: Re: bulkhead fitting drill size
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Hi Robert, For through hull fitting holes; the Unibit tool set is what works for me most of the time. Close with the hoses is good, Just remember to leave room for the wrenches at assembly time. jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: Robert Dickson <bubba(at)coastalnet.com> Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 11:06 AM Subject: RV-List: bulkhead fitting drill size > > Can someone tell me where to find the appropriate drill size for an AN832-4D > bulkhead union? Also, how far apart should the fittings be on the f-6122? I > assume pretty close to lessen the chance of the hoses rubbing on the angles. > > thanks > Robert Dickson > Fayetteville NC > RV-6A, brakes > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Rod end bearings
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
Date: Nov 01, 2000
11/01/2000 04:26:10 PM I was just cruising the NTSB database as I often do when things are slow and I ran cross an RV-4 crash that happened back in April of this year. Apparently an RV-4 belonging to Ray Smith of Orangevale, Ca. was flying along and the pilot noticed that he had completely lost all fore and aft stick control. Fortunately he was able to make a relatively safe off field landing using elevator trim. I have noticed that there have been both fatal and nonfatal RVs accidents that have occurred in severe clear conditions where they were just cruising along and bang their gone. The post crash analysis shows that they appear to be in great shape accept for the fact that engine is embedded in the soil in an approximate 20-degree down pitch attitude with no evidence of any ground slide. The question I put to the list is, what is the BEST way to safety the rod end bearings that are on the elevator push rod ( assuming that this is the weakest link ) so that this won't happen again. - Jim Andrews RV-8A ( cowl and systems check out ) O-360 Sensenich 85 N89JA reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net>
Subject: fresh air vents
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Hello Listers, I am laying out the position for the fresh air vents. Is there a measurement that will get the fresh air vent hole centered on the cowling top and bottom parting line. My guess is that the differences from one RV to another could vary slightly. My 6A wants to know. Jim in Kelowna ________________________________________________________________________________
From: clayfly(at)libertybay.com
Subject: RV Hanger Talk - Contribution
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Hi folks, My contribution to the list went in today. The list has saved my bacon time and time again as I've run up against puzzling questions. It's like walking into a hanger full of pilots with RVs in various stages of construction (or finished). What an awesome base of knowledge this list provides. Thanks to all of you for sharing your ideas and thanks to Matt for making magic with the bits and bytes. Clay Smith, RV-4, 25 hours Indiana ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2000
From: EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: putting screws in platenuts
I have been running a tap through these. Is this something I should stop. Earl RV4 Sam Buchanan wrote: > > > Larry Hawkins wrote: > > > > > > I bought an RV-4 project with wings and tail already complete. Working on > > the fuse now. My question: is it always difficult to put the screws in the > > platenuts? I am installing the F-419 forward top skin on the -4, and some > > of the screws just won't screw all the way into the platenut, it gets so > > tight that I strip out the screw driver slot. What am I doing wrong? any > > comments or suggestions would be appreciated. > > Larry Hawkins RV-4 Farmington NM > > > > Larry, get some Boelube, a dry lubricate available from several sources > including Cleaveland Aircraft Tools. Drag the threads of the screw > across the Boelube and the screws will go into the plate nuts with no > difficulty. > > No, the lube will not diminish the locking ability of the plate nuts. > > By the way, Boelube works great on cowl hinge pins as well! > > Sam Buchanan (RV-6) > "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Strobe Power Supplies
Date: Nov 01, 2000
> I don't have it in front of me but I recall seeing the output in Whelen's > documentation From http://www.vargaair.com/store/pages/58.html Whelen Engineering is proud to have pioneered and introduced the NEW CometFlash, CF, a major advancement in the field of Safety Lighting. By pulsing the flash tube four times in rapid succession, the "on-time" of the strobe is increased from 2/1000 of a second to 4/10 of a second. This increases your airplane's visibility. The development of the CometFlash reflects Whelen's dedication to safety. Model HTS,CF The HDA,CF is the finest power supply system available. It has the capacity for simultaneous flashing, alternate flashing or both. A TWO LIGHT SYSTEM ALTERNATE FLASHING, produces a combined total of 44 joules to each light. A TWO LIGHT SYSTEM SIMULTANEOUS FLASHING, produces a combined total of 22 joules to each light. A THREE LIGHT SYSTEM produces a combined total of 22 joules to each simultaneous light alternating with a third light with a combined total of 44 joules. $371 Model HTS,CF The HTS,CF produces an accumulated 34 joules of Model HDA,CF energy. It can be equipped to flash simultaneously with up to 5 other HTS,CF power supplies by connecting an 18 gauge wire between the synchronization mechanisms in each power supply. An 18 gauge low voltage wire supplies power to each HTS power supply. $304 Model HT,DF Whelen's most compact, single-source power supply produces 12 joules of energy. The system is available with a mounting plate that can directly replace factory installed systems on S/E Cessnas, S/E Aero Commanders and S/E Grumman Americans. $234 Ross Mickey ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jones, Bryan D." <bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
Subject: PTT switch wire run
Date: Nov 01, 2000
I drilled mine just below the grip. This made for a long run along the stick before turning back away though. My thinking is that the greatest bending moment occurs at the center of rotation and I wasn't too comfortable drilling the stick at or near that point. The wire leading from the grip is double insulated and the movement (between the stick and the penetrating wire) is nil. I just elongated and smoothed the edges of the hole in the stick and ran the wire through, then secured it to the stick. Bryan Jones -8 765BJ ~50-hrs Pearland, Texas > > I am planning to put PTT switches in both sticks in my RV6. Where do folks > generally run the wires out of the stick? I am inclined to drill a hole > near the center of rotation for the stick, but this would require a bushing. > The smallest bushings I have require a 3/8 inch hole, which seems like a > large hole in the stick. Any suggestions? Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, AK > (preparing to install the engine next week) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2000
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: PTT switch wire run
> > > > > I am planning to put PTT switches in both sticks in my RV6. Where > do > folks > > generally run the wires out of the stick? I am inclined to drill a > hole > > near the center of rotation for the stick, but this would require a > bushing. > > The smallest bushings I have require a 3/8 inch hole, which seems > like a > > large hole in the stick. Any suggestions? Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, > AK > > (preparing to install the engine next week) > > I ran mine straight out the bottom between the bearings. I did go out and purchase DMM (Digital MultiMeter) test lead wire. (Cut from a spool at the local DOW electronics store. This wire has many fine strands of wire with a very thick, VERY flexible insulation. Right below the switch I used a two pin "Molex" connector and then used regular 22 AWG wire all the way to the radio. Works great. No problems with wiring in 37 months and 720+ flying hours. Wish I could say the same about Ford Thunderbird's and their insurance company. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 720+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com From homework help to love advice, Yahoo! Experts has your answer. http://experts.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2000
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Ski Racks-idea
--- pcondon(at)csc.com wrote: > > For an idea start with a single pressure recovery wheel fairing from > Vans > or Sam James (Sam's are a bit bigger) Simply use the front of the > fairing > for the nose of your Ski-tube and the rear of the fairing for the > rear of > the Ski-tube. Knowing Vans designs, you will probably gain some speed > & > need to repitch your prop for more bite...... My ski rack is behind the baggage compartment and it has flown from SoCAL to Lake Tahoe and back without any problems. Was the first time I hit SEVERE TURBULANCE also. "G" meter read +5.5 and -2. Allen Tolle and Tracy Saylor both have ski racks behind the baggage compartments in their RV-6s. They are the two that have gone before me and it worked for them. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 720+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com From homework help to love advice, Yahoo! Experts has your answer. http://experts.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Subject: Re: Rod end bearings
In a message dated 11/1/00 5:32:14 PM Eastern Standard Time, Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com writes: > The question I put to the list is, what is the BEST way to safety the rod > end bearings that are on the elevator push rod ( assuming that this is the > weakest link ) so that this won't happen again. > > - Jim Andrews > RV-8A ( cowl and systems check out ) > O-360 Sensenich 85 > N89JA reserved Jim and others, What I did was make my control rods as long as possible, leaving maybe 1/8" at one end for adjusting one end shorter. This means you've gotta size the control rods as you rig the controls. If you make the control rods as long as possible, and minimize the possible adjustment, the rod end bearings can't back out once installed. Why, you ask? The only way the bearing is going to back out is if the rod spins in one direction enough revolutions to back off of one bearing. If the rod somehow comes loose, and begins to spin loose on one end, it will tighten on the other end, until the end that is tightening bottoms out. So, if that end bottoms out after only 1/8" or so, the other end can't back out. Can't visualize it? Try this: Take a control rod, hold on to one bearing, and have someone else hold the other bearing. Then spin the pushrod. The rod will only spin until it bottoms out on one end. If you minimize or eliminate the distance until the bearing bottoms out, you'll never lose a bearing. Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2000
From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Strobe Power Supplies
Mark, Whelen has an online and pdf catalog. Click on aviation from the link you listed. The power supply in Van's catalog is a HDA,CF which draws 7 amps. If you hook it up to wingtip strobes it'll provide 42 joules to each, alternating. It flashes at about 50/min. If you hook it up to three strobes, it'll hit the wingtips with 21 joules each, simultaniously, and hit the tail with 42 joules. If you want everything as bright as possible, you could hook it up to alternate the wingtips and get a single power supply for the tail. Ed Holyoke RV-6 tail nearly complete Quickbuild Dec/Jan N86ED reserved czechsix(at)juno.com wrote: > > Listers, > > I've been trying to figure out what strobe system I want to use on my RV. > The archives seem to have more questions than answers. There's a number > of systems on the market for aviation and non-aviation use, but many of > them don't have good specs for comparison. > > I have a combination tail nav/strobe light that I was given and would > like to get a single power supply that will drive 3 strobes (tail and > both wingtips). Whelen has one that Vans sells (around $400 IIRC). I > found a supply on Whelen's website (not designed for aircraft) called > model SPS-660 at http://www.whelen.com/vpps26c.htm that drives up to 6 > strobes with either Cometflash or Doubleflash patterns for $267. It's > rated 60 watts and on their spec page it says energy is 11/5/5/5 joules > (typ). I assume this is the joules for each of the 4 flashes in the > Cometflash pattern although I'm not sure about this....and have no way of > comparing it to the aviation system Vans sells. Flash rate is 140 per > min....is this too fast? > > The archives contain posts about Galls and ISSPRO systems that use a > single power supply to drive 4 strobes but I haven't found specs on these > either. > > If anyone has found something that will work for 3 bulbs, and has specs, > let me know. > > --Mark Navratil > Cedar Rapids, Iowa > RV-8A > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2000
From: Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com>
Subject: Re: Ski Racks
>The pod could be shaped in two ways. One, symetrically and aerodynamically for >minimum drag, or two as an airfoil to build some extra lift to compensate for >the weight of the pod. As a complete amatuer in this type of thing, I tend to >favor aerodynamically (not as an airfoil) to minimize stresses on the mounting >brackets. Having a single bracket fail with this thing hanging in the breeze >could definitely ruin one's flight. As another complete amatuer, it seems to me that an airfoil shape will be more likely to cause trim problems. Most airfoils cause nose down moments, if the pod was too big you could run out of elevator authority. Don't know enough to reccomend a minimum drag shape that will hold skis. For having a single bracket fail, looking at bomb racks in museams, there is only one mount holding the weight, with other points just keeping it from swinging. So if the mount fails, the pod would simply drop away from the plane. (see bad ascii art:) plane ---+------++-------+----- | || | /========++=========\ < pod > \===================/ The + symbols indicate an actual link, such as a bolt holding the pod, the others merely push on the top of the pod, holding it in place. The drag from the pod will cause a nose down moment, how much is too much? For myself, I don't ski, but I do hunt. I'm trying to figure out how to secure my shotgun or rifle in the cabin so they don't come loose in a crash. May be the only RV with a gun rack :) Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com) President and Founder Friends of P-Chan RV-8 80091 Re-doing horizontal stab. 1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2000
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Pro-seal questions!!
Just thought I'd let you know. That if your leaking air and you can feel it you will leak gasoline in that area. However you are right that the gasket should not need any proseal other than maybe a small bead on the outside of the cover plate. (see Eustice Boways e-mail) Glenn WIlliams --- RV8DRIVER(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > After tank construction, I installed the cover > plates with just the cork > composition gasket, no sealer of any kind. The > assembly was air-tested at > 2psi (enough to slightly bulge the bottom of the > tank between the ribs) over > night with out loss of pressure. Since air will leak > from a joint that > gasoline won't due to the difference in molecular > size, I'm confident in > believing that no sealer is necessary. Andy Johnson, > fuselage > > > > through > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > Matronics! > > > > > ==== Glenn Williams 8A A&P N81GW From homework help to love advice, Yahoo! Experts has your answer. http://experts.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Rod end bearings
Date: Nov 01, 2000
related to this.... I took a suggestion from the List and bolted the two halves of my elevator horns together. With this arrangment, if the control tube fails, the two elevators can be controlled with the trim. Ross ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: PTT switch wire run
Date: Nov 01, 2000
-----Original Message----- From: Gar & Jan Pessel <pessel(at)ptialaska.net> Date: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 1:05 PM Subject: RV-List: PTT switch wire run > >I am planning to put PTT switches in both sticks in my RV6. Where do folks >generally run the wires out of the stick? I am inclined to drill a hole >near the center of rotation for the stick, but this would require a bushing. >The smallest bushings I have require a 3/8 inch hole, which seems like a >large hole in the stick. Any suggestions? Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, AK >(preparing to install the engine next week) > 1) Obtain some Mate 'n Lock connectors and crimping tool from Terminal Town. Use two pin connectors. Then when you remove the sticks (you did make the pilot's stick easily removable with a sleeve, right?) for crawling under the panel the PTT wires aren't in the way. 2) Drill a 3/16 hole and get some different sizes of poly and rubber tubing. Run AWG 22 Tefzel wire. Slit a 3/4 inch length the tubing and use it for a bushing. Lots of places need bushings and tie-wrapped slit tubing works well. Also do consider putting the copilot PTT on the panel. Then the passenger/non-piloting member can handle communications without touching the stick -- important in an RV due to very sensitive controls. Dennis Persyk N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 2.7 hours Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2000
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: putting screws in platenuts
I believe that by running a tap through platenuts you loose the self locking feature of the nut. Some sort of lube on the threads (I use BoeLube) makes them go in much easier. Stops stripping of screw heads also Gary Zilik > > > I have been running a tap through these. Is this something I should > stop. > Earl RV4 > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Rod end bearings
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Jim, IMHO the absolute best way is to use a castelated nut and a cotter pin for flight controls. On helicopters where everything in the world moves and vibrates, that is the way ALL controls are installed. I figure that if they work for those washing machines of the air they are good for planes. I have almost 500 hours test flying choppers by the way and trying to make them break. I guess I wasn't bold enough and managed to make it here. Mike Robertson RV-8A N809RS >From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Rod end bearings >Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 16:26:28 -0600 11/01/2000 04:26:10 PM > > >I was just cruising the NTSB database as I often do when things are slow >and I ran cross an RV-4 crash that happened back in April of this year. >Apparently an RV-4 belonging to Ray Smith of Orangevale, Ca. was flying >along and the pilot noticed that he had completely lost all fore and aft >stick control. Fortunately he was able to make a relatively safe off field >landing using elevator trim. > >I have noticed that there have been both fatal and nonfatal RVs accidents >that have occurred in severe clear conditions where they were just cruising >along and bang their gone. The post crash analysis shows that they appear >to be in great shape accept for the fact that engine is embedded in the >soil in an approximate 20-degree down pitch attitude with no evidence of >any ground slide. > >The question I put to the list is, what is the BEST way to safety the rod >end bearings that are on the elevator push rod ( assuming that this is the >weakest link ) so that this won't happen again. > >- Jim Andrews >RV-8A ( cowl and systems check out ) >O-360 Sensenich 85 >N89JA reserved > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: putting screws in platenuts
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Earl, STOP THAT. No, really, you are removing a lot of the locking capabilities of the nutplate by doing that. Mike Robertson RV-8A N809RS >From: EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: putting screws in platenuts >Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2000 17:22:26 -0500 > > >I have been running a tap through these. Is this something I should >stop. >Earl RV4 > >Sam Buchanan wrote: > > > > > > Larry Hawkins wrote: > > > > > > > > > I bought an RV-4 project with wings and tail already complete. Working >on > > > the fuse now. My question: is it always difficult to put the screws in >the > > > platenuts? I am installing the F-419 forward top skin on the -4, and >some > > > of the screws just won't screw all the way into the platenut, it gets >so > > > tight that I strip out the screw driver slot. What am I doing wrong? >any > > > comments or suggestions would be appreciated. > > > Larry Hawkins RV-4 Farmington NM > > > > > > > Larry, get some Boelube, a dry lubricate available from several sources > > including Cleaveland Aircraft Tools. Drag the threads of the screw > > across the Boelube and the screws will go into the plate nuts with no > > difficulty. > > > > No, the lube will not diminish the locking ability of the plate nuts. > > > > By the way, Boelube works great on cowl hinge pins as well! > > > > Sam Buchanan (RV-6) > > "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Insurance
Date: Nov 01, 2000
-----Original Message----- From: Bob Japundza <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> Date: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 1:10 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Insurance > >I just got insurance on my bird last week from Scott Sky Smith. $1462 >(AIG) $60,000 hull, $100 deductibles. He's in the yeller pages. > >Bob Japundza >RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 53 hours > I also got mine from AIG. Don't forget to get your "necessary crew member" as a named pilot on the policy so said member can perform essential duties during the flyoff period, and of course, thereafter. The requirements for pilots covered by AIG ( and all other carriers) for experimentals are MUCH more stringent than certificated planes. On my C172 anyone current that I deem fit can fly the plane and full insurance applies -- not so for the RVs! Dennis Persyk N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 2.7 hours Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Ski Racks
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Brian, Good thinking but for one little thing. Single point load connections are only for the military. For us civilians, we are supposed to attach something of this natural with backups so that if any one pint breaks it won't come off. Even though we operate Experimentals and can pretty much do as we please, us FAA types won't like it and persuade you to have at least two attaching points. There are actually several safety issues here that I could bring up but don't want to bore you. Mike Robertson RV-8A N809RS Das Fed >From: Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Ski Racks >Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 16:30:57 -0700 (MST) > > > >The pod could be shaped in two ways. One, symetrically and >aerodynamically for > >minimum drag, or two as an airfoil to build some extra lift to compensate >for > >the weight of the pod. As a complete amatuer in this type of thing, I >tend to > >favor aerodynamically (not as an airfoil) to minimize stresses on the >mounting > >brackets. Having a single bracket fail with this thing hanging in the >breeze > >could definitely ruin one's flight. > > As another complete amatuer, it seems to me that an airfoil shape >will be more likely to cause trim problems. Most airfoils cause nose down >moments, if the pod was too big you could run out of elevator authority. >Don't know enough to reccomend a minimum drag shape that will hold skis. > > For having a single bracket fail, looking at bomb racks in museams, >there is only one mount holding the weight, with other points just keeping >it from swinging. So if the mount fails, the pod would simply drop away >from the plane. (see bad ascii art:) > > plane >---+------++-------+----- > | || | > /========++=========\ >< pod > > \===================/ > > The + symbols indicate an actual link, such as a bolt holding the >pod, the others merely push on the top of the pod, holding it in place. >The drag from the pod will cause a nose down moment, how much is too much? > > For myself, I don't ski, but I do hunt. I'm trying to figure out how to >secure my shotgun or rifle in the cabin so they don't come loose in a >crash. May be the only RV with a gun rack :) > > Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com) > President and Founder Friends of P-Chan > RV-8 80091 Re-doing horizontal stab. > 1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2000
From: Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com>
Subject: Re: Ski Racks
>Good thinking but for one little thing. Single point load connections are >only for the military. For us civilians, we are supposed to attach >something of this natural with backups so that if any one pint breaks it >won't come off. Even though we operate Experimentals and can pretty much do >as we please, us FAA types won't like it and persuade you to have at least >two attaching points. There are actually several safety issues here that I >could bring up but don't want to bore you. I guess civlians are supposed to minimize stuff falling off the plane. :) You could use two points that were close together, still using the pushing type thing to keep it from swinging. With mine, I am trying to work with internal storage anyway. Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com) President and Founder Friends of P-Chan RV-8 80091 Redoing horiz. stab 1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Subject: Preparation of wing ribs
Date: Nov 01, 2000
I recently followed the 'paranoia' thread with interest and agree that there are many cases that I wonder if what I build wil be safe. I particulary remember calling Van's once with a qualiity question when Tom answered "You're only building an airplane!". :) Anyway... I am currently at the stage where I'm preparing all the wing ribs. The manual explains to use a scotchbrite wheel in a diegrinder to smooth/debur the lightning holes. I haven't been able to find a small enough wheel for this so I have been smoothing the holes 'manually' with a scotchbrite pad. I hope this will do. What I'm more worried about though are all the edges on the small tabs that are cut out in the leading edge of the front ribs. I can't get between them but they look fairly good just the way they are. I hope this isn't asking for cracks. Any suggestions? Are RV-8 Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Griffin" <skydog-8(at)home.com>
Subject: putting screws in platenuts
Date: Nov 01, 2000
It's completely OK to run a tap through your nutplates, as long as you drill a small hole sideways through the end of the screws for a cotter pin. Serously, don't do that. When you do, that negates the locking feature. Use some form of dry lubricant. Randy Griffin -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mike Robertson Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 6:12 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: putting screws in platenuts >I have been running a tap through these. Is this something I should >stop. >Earl RV4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Re: putting screws in platenuts
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Here's an even simpler solution. Go to the local hdwe store and get a toilet boil wax ring. Dip the screws in the wax before the first insertion and they will then go in and out just fine. Doug Weiler MN Wing > I have been running a tap through these. Is this something I should > stop. > Earl RV4 > > > > > > > Larry, get some Boelube, a dry lubricate available from several sources > > including Cleaveland Aircraft Tools. Drag the threads of the screw > > across the Boelube and the screws will go into the plate nuts with no > > difficulty. > > > > No, the lube will not diminish the locking ability of the plate nuts. > > > > By the way, Boelube works great on cowl hinge pins as well! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2000
From: David & Betty Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net>
Subject: Re: Preparation of wing ribs
Hi Are, Check out Cleaveland's website: http://www.cleavelandtool.com/ They have pictures of what you are looking for, 1 inch diameter scotchbright wheels and the mandrels to hold them. (Everybody sells them, I know Cleveland has a picture you can look at). Dave RV6A, wings Are Barstad wrote: > > I recently followed the 'paranoia' thread with interest and agree that there > are many cases that I wonder if what I build wil be safe. I particulary > remember calling Van's once with a qualiity question when Tom answered > "You're only building an airplane!". :) > > Anyway... > > I am currently at the stage where I'm preparing all the wing ribs. The > manual explains to use a scotchbrite wheel in a diegrinder to smooth/debur > the lightning holes. I haven't been able to find a small enough wheel for > this so I have been smoothing the holes 'manually' with a scotchbrite pad. I > hope this will do. What I'm more worried about though are all the edges on > the small tabs that are cut out in the leading edge of the front ribs. I > can't get between them but they look fairly good just the way they are. I > hope this isn't asking for cracks. > > Any suggestions? > > Are > RV-8 Wings > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark Phillips" <mphill(at)fgi.net>
Subject: Re: Preparation of wing ribs
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Are,I bought the little scotchbrite wheel from averys and installed it on the die grinder,worked well for me ----- Original Message ----- From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 7:39 PM Subject: RV-List: Preparation of wing ribs > > I recently followed the 'paranoia' thread with interest and agree that there > are many cases that I wonder if what I build wil be safe. I particulary > remember calling Van's once with a qualiity question when Tom answered > "You're only building an airplane!". :) > > Anyway... > > I am currently at the stage where I'm preparing all the wing ribs. The > manual explains to use a scotchbrite wheel in a diegrinder to smooth/debur > the lightning holes. I haven't been able to find a small enough wheel for > this so I have been smoothing the holes 'manually' with a scotchbrite pad. I > hope this will do. What I'm more worried about though are all the edges on > the small tabs that are cut out in the leading edge of the front ribs. I > can't get between them but they look fairly good just the way they are. I > hope this isn't asking for cracks. > > Any suggestions? > > Are > RV-8 Wings > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bob DiMeo - Oracle <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au>
Subject: Preparation of wing ribs
Date: Nov 02, 2000
Are, You don't have to get anal about deburring. I used 200 grit wet-or-dry to smooth those tabs. A single thickness should be able to get in the spaces. I also used it on the holes that I couldn't get with my 2" scotch brite wheel. A good swipe or two is all that's needed. If you think you're going to cut yourself on one of the edges, you should smooth it out a little more, otherwise, it'll be fine. Remember; you're only building an airplane! ( I think I saw this in another mail : ) ) Bob RV8 #423 fuselage on order > ---------- > From: Are Barstad > Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2000 11:39 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Preparation of wing ribs > > > I recently followed the 'paranoia' thread with interest and agree that > there > are many cases that I wonder if what I build wil be safe. I particulary > remember calling Van's once with a qualiity question when Tom answered > "You're only building an airplane!". :) > > Anyway... > > I am currently at the stage where I'm preparing all the wing ribs. The > manual explains to use a scotchbrite wheel in a diegrinder to smooth/debur > the lightning holes. I haven't been able to find a small enough wheel for > this so I have been smoothing the holes 'manually' with a scotchbrite pad. > I > hope this will do. What I'm more worried about though are all the edges on > the small tabs that are cut out in the leading edge of the front ribs. I > can't get between them but they look fairly good just the way they are. I > hope this isn't asking for cracks. > > Any suggestions? > > Are > RV-8 Wings > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2000
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: TOO MUCH FOR ONE MAN!!!!!!!
Well I have finally come to the conclusion that this fund raising work is just too much for one man. I have enlisted the help of all people, Eric Henson, to assist me in driving the message home that Matte DESERVES your contribution. I mean Matte has worked tirelessly for you in Livermore and all he asks for is your voluntary contribution in November to keep him there fighting for you! Protecting YOU from big mistakes on your project. Yes that's right, BIG MISTAKES ! And we all know how those Big Mistakes can run roughshod over us common builders! We have no defense from Big Mistakes. But Matte will fight for US! He will be there for us to say "NO" to Big Mistakes! (Sorry, got a little sidetracked there.) I have enjoyed many of Erics' slightly sarcastic posts to the list in the past and I hope you have too. I especially like the "Rah the Sun god" post last March when people were leaving the party ......er... I mean list, because of mixing building and religion, which as you all know is in the list constitution (FAQs) that church and List are to be kept separate. (And if you didn't know, you know now!) So as Eric and I hit the campaign trail to garner contributions for Matte, please bare with us as we attempt to humor you into parting with a few lousy dollars. We won't be using any "fuzzy math" but I hope to make enough unrealistic and outrageous promises that you will smile when you type in your credit card number at: http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html Or when you make a contribution by check (please send US Mail) to: List Contribution c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 So cast your contribution to the RV-List and Matte early and often. Let's be a player! AL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2000
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: TOO MUCH FOR ONE MAN!!!!!!!
Well I have finally come to the conclusion that this fund raising work is just too much for one man. I have enlisted the help of all people, Eric Henson, to assist me in driving the message home that Matte DESERVES your contribution. I mean Matte has worked tirelessly for you in Livermore and all he asks for is your voluntary contribution in November to keep him there fighting for you! Protecting YOU from big mistakes on your project. Yes that's right, BIG MISTAKES ! And we all know how those Big Mistakes can run roughshod over us common builders! We have no defense from Big Mistakes. But Matte will fight for US! He will be there for us to say "NO" to Big Mistakes! (Sorry, got a little sidetracked there.) I have enjoyed many of Erics' slightly sarcastic posts to the list in the past and I hope you have too. I especially like the "Rah the Sun god" post last March when people were leaving the party ......er... I mean list, because of mixing building and religion, which as you all know is in the list constitution (FAQs) that church and List are to be kept separate. (And if you didn't know, you know now!) So as Eric and I hit the campaign trail to garner contributions for Matte, please bare with us as we attempt to humor you into parting with a few lousy dollars. We won't be using any "fuzzy math" but I hope to make enough unrealistic and outrageous promises that you will smile when you type in your credit card number at: http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html Or when you make a contribution by check (please send US Mail) to: List Contribution c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 So cast your contribution to the RV-List and Matte early and often. Let's be a player! AL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2000
From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: putting screws in platenuts
In my humble opinion one should use the tap judiciously. I have had a batch of platenuts in which almost none of the screws even wanted to start. I found that as long as the tap does not go through the platenut, but cleans the start of the thread in the platenut that there is plenty clamping force. It's like everything else, don't overdo it. If the screw goes too heavy it will snap off. clean the thread. If the screw goes to lightly, by all means gently squeeze the end of the nut till you feel sufficient friction. as always, your mileage may vary Gert Randy Griffin wrote: > > > It's completely OK to run a tap through your nutplates, as long as you drill > a small hole sideways through the end of the screws for a cotter pin. > Serously, don't do that. When you do, that negates the locking feature. Use > some form of dry lubricant. > > Randy Griffin > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mike Robertson > Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 6:12 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: putting screws in platenuts > > >I have been running a tap through these. Is this something I should > >stop. > >Earl RV4 > -- Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: Ski Racks
> >A few years ago I mentioned a similar ski rack idea to someone at Van's. I >think it might have been Bill. Anyway, he had CG concerns about placing >objects aft of the baggage compartment. His recommendation instead was to get >a large piece of PVC tubing, close off the ends with something resembling a >spinner and attach it externally to the belly of the plane, sort of like a >drop tank. > >I like this idea, but have been thinking about ways to do it better. For >example, rather than some ugly and heavy piece of PVC tubing, I am thinking >about making a nice aerodynamically shaped custom pod from composites. This >could hang by two simple brackets attached to the fuselage floor angles so it >could be easily attached or removed when you want to use it. It would mount >forward enough to not be affected by the heat of the exhaust blast, and can be >long enough so as not to scrape the ground during landing. Tail draggers might >have a problem with this, but nose wheel folks should be able to get it long >enough for skiis with sufficient clearance. > >What I'm wondering is how this might affect in-flight handling of the plane. >I've heard military AWACs pilots who fly with that huge radar disc on top of >their planes saying that they don't even know it's there. > Any pod large enough to be useful will probably have enough side area to affect things. Having extra side area ahead of the CG will tend to cancel out some of the side area of the vertical tail, roughly speaking. So, you might end up with a bit less yaw stability, a bit different dutch roll, more sideslip available with full rudder, and degraded spin characteristics. You would want to do a careful, full flight test program. You might need to add some sort of dorsal or ventral fin to increase the side area aft. You may find that the drag from the pod causes a larger decrease in cruise speed than you are willing to put up with. If you need to stick some of your luggage outside the aircraft, you are probably a good candidate for the new four seater, whenever Van comes out with it. Take care, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done) Ottawa, Canada http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "alain nantel" <alain_nantel(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Magnito and Ignition Switch Question
Date: Nov 02, 2000
>When I brought my freshly overhauled engine home and unwrapped it, the >first >thing I noticed was the impulse coupling magnito was on the right side >instead of the normal left side. I called the mechanic who rebuilt the >engine and he told me that it doesn't matter which side the impulse >coupling >is installed. > >Now here is my problem: I have an ACS ignition switch and the normal >routine >is to connect the left mag to the left terminal and the right mag to the >right terminal. The instructions also tell you to use a jumper between >right >magnito connector and connector adjacent to right connector when the left >mag >has a impulse coupling. > >Now, must I switch left and right magnito wires on the ignition switch so >that the enginge will start on the right magnito instead of the left? >Also, >should I use the jumper? > >Many thanks if you can answer this one. > Hi First thing, why did he install the mag on the right side? I think he probably made a mistake and won't fess up to it, so if you can, switch it to the left side. Second, the switch. The jumper is installed so that the right magneto is shorted to ground to prevent it from firing (normally at 25 degrees BTDC)on start up. If it did you could damage the engine because of the kick back that would occur(the engine would try to run backwards) . The impulse coupling's job is two fold, it retards the spark to top dead center (TDC) or slightly after and it will increase the speed of the magnet so that a strong spark is provided to the spark plugs. Hope this helps Alain_Nantel(at)hotmail.com RV-6 C-GGRS 90% done 90% to go ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TColeE(at)AOL.COM
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Subject: Re: PTT switch wire run
What I did was to drill a small hole ( can't rmember what size) and purchased an assortment of small small rubber gasket that fit in the hole .I tested it on part of the stick I cut off. The stick boot covered it up as it was just about even with the floor and ran to the side of the plane. Also used a plug from terminal town inside the stick for easy removal. Worked for me. Terry E.Cole N468TC 165hrs. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TColeE(at)AOL.COM
Date: Nov 02, 2000
Subject: Re: PTT switch wire run
Just happen to have a couple two or three small grommets left over from my plane.Let me know where to send them (Off list) and ill put them in the mail. Terry E. Cole ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Nov 02, 2000
Subject: Re: TOO MUCH FOR ONE MAN!!!!!!!
In a message dated 11/1/00 7:12:26 PM Pacific Standard Time, prober(at)iwaynet.net writes: << Well, I have finally come to the conclusion that this fund raising work is just too much for one man. I have enlisted the help of all people, Eric Henson, to assist me in driving the message home that Matte DESERVES your contribution. I mean Matte has worked tirelessly for you in Livermore and all he asks for is your voluntary contribution in November to keep him there fighting for you! Protecting YOU from big mistakes on your project. Yes, that's right, BIG MISTAKES ! And we all know how those Big Mistakes can run roughshod over us common builders! We have no defense from Big Mistakes. But Matte will fight for US! He will be there for us to say "NO" to Big Mistakes! >> Okay Al, so why are you all of a sudden misspelling our list host's first name? Too many Proseal fumes??? Fix your spell checker, man. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Nov 02, 2000
Subject: Re: fresh air vents
In a message dated 11/1/00 2:33:05 PM Pacific Standard Time, jjewell(at)okanagan.net writes: << I am laying out the position for the fresh air vents. Is there a measurement that will get the fresh air vent hole centered on the cowling top and bottom parting line. >> You probably don't want this anyway, because the parting line will inevitably leak hot air and it will stream in thru the NACA vents. During summer at lower altitudes you will be stacking this hot air upon the already warm air coming in the fresh air vents. In my experience it can raise the air temp by around 8 degrees C. If I were to do it again, I would raise the vents as high as I could. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lkyswede(at)AOL.COM
Date: Nov 02, 2000
Subject: Re: Strobe Power Supplies
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com>
Subject: Re: So. Cal visit
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Mike, I am sure that Apple Valley is too far away. 2.5 to 3 hours drive north on HWY 15. Anyway, if can get here the welcome mat is out. As we are no flying, Jack and I can't fly and get you. Tom Gummo Apple VAlley, CA HR-II, getting closer ----- Original Message ----- From: Mike Nellis <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 12:59 PM Subject: RV-List: So. Cal visit > > I know this is sort of late notice, but, to those in the So. California > area, I'll be heading out tomorrow to the Long Beach area. I'll have > some time on my hands during the day next Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday if > anyone wants to entertain a visit to look at their project or, even better, > wants a co-pilot for a while. I'm always looking to take pictures and see > new ideas. > > Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res) > Plainfield, IL > http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lkyswede(at)AOL.COM
Date: Nov 02, 2000
Subject: Re: Strobe Power Supplies
________________________________________________________________________________
From: TMB1564(at)AOL.COM
Date: Nov 02, 2000
Subject: Magnito and ignition switch problem - AGAIN.
Thanks for the comments on my problem, but I am still confused. Let me further describe my engine mags. As I stated before, the engine came with two rebuilt mags. The one with the impulse coupling on the right side and the mag on the left side contained a device on the rear of the mag with two wires protruding. This really confused me. Evidently, the overhaul shop had these two mags in their possession and overhauled them for my engine. When I inquired about this left mag device with the two wires protruding, a knowledgeable person said that Bendix Mag Co. calls this device "shower of sparks". I then called the mechanic back and he informed me if I don't want to use the "shower of sparks", which I don't have a clue how it works, just clip the wires and use the impulse coupling on the right mag. Any more help on this? Thanks a million - Tom Benton RV3B SE Florida Do not archive. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 02, 2000
From: bcbraem(at)home.com
Subject: Thanksgiving, the FADEC
Listers-- First, do the right thing by Matt. Then, go to http://www.fadec.com and get those deposits ready. Boyd N600SS 225 hrs (54 weeks) SW FL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net
Subject: Tom Benton/Mags
Date: Nov 02, 2000
Charlie, Can you help Tom? Peter > > Thanks for the comments on my problem, but I am still confused. Let me > further describe my engine mags. As I stated before, the engine came with > two rebuilt mags. The one with the impulse coupling on the right side and > the mag on the left side contained a device on the rear of the mag with two > wires protruding. This really confused me. Evidently, the overhaul shop had > these two mags in their possession and overhauled them for my engine. > > When I inquired about this left mag device with the two wires protruding, a > knowledgeable person said that Bendix Mag Co. calls this device "shower of > sparks". I then called the mechanic back and he informed me if I don't want > to use the "shower of sparks", which I don't have a clue how it works, just > clip the wires and use the impulse coupling on the right mag. > > Any more help on this? > > Thanks a million - Tom Benton RV3B SE Florida Do not > archive. > > > > > > >** --------- End Original Message ----------- ** > Download the Jurassic Park Browser at http://www.jurassicpark.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com>
Subject: FL RV's
Date: Nov 02, 2000
Listers, I'm planning on taking the week of 11/18 to 11/25 off and fly to Florida, where I'll stay with my folks. I'm hoping that the excellent weather will afford me the opportunity to visit other RVer's or builders during the week. Perhaps you locals can suggest a good place to fly into. For you builders out there, speak up, here's a chance for a ride in a -6A. If you respond, I'll meet up with you on your home turf. While I'm in Florida, I'll be based at Sabastian (X26). With Key West ONLY 1.5 Hours away, the rest of Florida is not all that far away... Fred Stucklen N925RV (1650 hrs/7 Yrs) E. Windsor, CT 06088 wstucklen1(at)juno.com stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Tom Benton/Mags
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Nov 02, 2000
11/02/2000 08:34:04 AM Somebody is out of touch here. A shower of sparks mag needs a (external) buzz box to operate the mag.......hence the wires.......Give the mechanic another chance and ask what are you to do with the Buzz box.(in relation to the clipped wire from the mag). Depending on his answer I would be ready to change mechanics plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net@matronics.com on 11/02/2000 07:40:26 AM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com cc: Subject: RV-List: Tom Benton/Mags Charlie, Can you help Tom? Peter > > Thanks for the comments on my problem, but I am still confused. Let me > further describe my engine mags. As I stated before, the engine came with > two rebuilt mags. The one with the impulse coupling on the right side and > the mag on the left side contained a device on the rear of the mag with two > wires protruding. This really confused me. Evidently, the overhaul shop had > these two mags in their possession and overhauled them for my engine. > > When I inquired about this left mag device with the two wires protruding, a > knowledgeable person said that Bendix Mag Co. calls this device "shower of > sparks". I then called the mechanic back and he informed me if I don't want > to use the "shower of sparks", which I don't have a clue how it works, just > clip the wires and use the impulse coupling on the right mag. > > Any more help on this? > > Thanks a million - Tom Benton RV3B SE Florida Do not > archive. > > >** --------- End Original Message ----------- ** > Download the Jurassic Park Browser at http://www.jurassicpark.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rod end bearings
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Nov 02, 2000
11/02/2000 08:36:03 AM --------------- Can you briefly outline the method of coupling these two elevator halves together. This may(help/assist) solve the rod-end-edge-clearance problem some of us have with the bottom horn bolt hole being mighty close the edge of the horn "Ross Mickey" (at)matronics.com on 11/01/2000 06:41:33 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com cc: Subject: Re: RV-List: Rod end bearings related to this.... I took a suggestion from the List and bolted the two halves of my elevator horns together. With this arrangment, if the control tube fails, the two elevators can be controlled with the trim. Ross ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rod end bearings
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Nov 02, 2000
11/02/2000 08:40:19 AM Can you briefly outline the method of coupling these two elevator halves together. This may(help/assist) solve the rod-end-edge-clearance problem some of us have with the bottom horn bolt hole being mighty close the edge of the horn "Ross Mickey" (at)matronics.com on 11/01/2000 06:41:33 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com cc: Subject: Re: RV-List: Rod end bearings related to this.... I took a suggestion from the List and bolted the two halves of my elevator horns together. With this arrangment, if the control tube fails, the two elevators can be controlled with the trim. Ross ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
Subject: Re: PTT switch wire run
Date: Nov 02, 2000
I drilled a small hole (less than 1/4") in the side of the stick just above the bend. I then used a small rubber grommet. For wire, I used the 5-conductor wire from my MAC system. It is 26 gauge and covered with a tough covering that is very flexible. The suggestion about putting the push-to-talk switch for the passenger on the panel rather than the stick is a very good one. That's one of my "do overs" when I get the time. Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 Indianapolis (93 hours) ----- Original Message ----- From: Gar & Jan Pessel <pessel(at)ptialaska.net> Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 1:59 PM Subject: RV-List: PTT switch wire run > > I am planning to put PTT switches in both sticks in my RV6. Where do folks > generally run the wires out of the stick? I am inclined to drill a hole > near the center of rotation for the stick, but this would require a bushing. > The smallest bushings I have require a 3/8 inch hole, which seems like a > large hole in the stick. Any suggestions? Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, AK > (preparing to install the engine next week) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
Subject: Re: fresh air vents
Date: Nov 02, 2000
I don't have the exact dimension, but if you place it just above the horizontal rib above the rudder pedal attach points, it will be very close to center. Be advised that if your paint scheme includes a stripe along the joint line of your cowling, it will be easier to paint if the vent is either above or below the line. Trying to get the right "line perspective" over and through the vent opening is a pain. Ask me how I know. Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 Indianapolis (93 hours) ----- Original Message ----- From: jim jewell <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 5:29 PM Subject: RV-List: fresh air vents > > > Hello Listers, > > > I am laying out the position for the fresh air vents. > Is there a measurement that will get the fresh air vent hole centered on the > cowling top and bottom parting line. > My guess is that the differences from one RV to another could vary slightly. > My 6A wants to know. > > Jim in Kelowna > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 02, 2000
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: SPELLING was TOO MUCH FOR ONE MAN
Gary, As our resident spell checker I would have been most disappointed if you hadn't caught that error. Let me explain why that "misspelling" occurred. In our various focus group sessions around the country to determine how best to target our contributors it was pointed out that we seemed to post our appeals in a willy-nilly fashion. That is, without any reason. So it was determined that we can get an "extra" post in if we were to make an obvious spelling error in our early posts and someone such as yourself were to correct us. This would give us the excuse to talk about the RV-List Fundraiser in an extra post that would have a "reason" for being posted. The important thing in this extra post is that we remind everyone that this is the month to get out and contribute! Thats right, time to do your part in this voluntary campaign for funds to insure the continued smooth operation of the RV-List. It's your chance to really prove that you would voluntarily pay for services that you received without being "taxed" to insure they are funded. It seems that day in and day out we are manipulated into thinking what someone else wants us to think or believe. On the RV-List, there is always the opportunity to voice your opinion without the least fear of being flamed.....(cough,... choke,.......gag..........) Well you get to voice your opinion anyway. SO come on and join the wining team and contribute today to the RV-List Fundraiser. (Are you feeling manipulated yet?) To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard, please go to the following URL and follow the simple instructions: http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to: List Contribution c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 And Gary, thanks for giving me a reason to make this extra post. (Of course there's always the possibility that I just flat out misspelled Matt's name..................nahhhhhh.......Did I mention it's for the children? ) AL >Okay Al, so why are you all of a sudden misspelling our list host's first >name? Too many Proseal fumes??? Fix your spell checker, man. > >-GV (RV-6A N1GV) >vanremog(at)aol.com > >In a message dated 11/1/00 7:12:26 PM Pacific Standard Time, >prober(at)iwaynet.net writes: > ><< Well, I have finally come to the conclusion that this fund raising work is > just too much for one man. I have enlisted the help of all people, Eric > Henson, to assist me in driving the message home that Matte DESERVES your > contribution. I mean Matte has worked tirelessly for you in Livermore and > all he asks for is your voluntary contribution in November to keep him > there fighting for you! Protecting YOU from big mistakes on your project. > Yes, that's right, BIG MISTAKES ! And we all know how those Big Mistakes > can > run roughshod over us common builders! We have no defense from Big > Mistakes. But Matte will fight for US! He will be there for us to say "NO" > to Big Mistakes! >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
Subject: Re: putting screws in platenuts
Date: Nov 02, 2000
I had one of my cowl attach nutplates get cross threaded a little. I ran a tap through it to help straighten it out. It totally removed the locking capability of the nutplate. I ended up removing and replacing the nutplate. It would seem to me that you should not be tapping the nutplates out, but I'm sure there are others on the list that have been doing it for years. To each their own, but I wouldn't do it. Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 Indianapolis (93 hours) ----- Original Message ----- From: EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 5:22 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: putting screws in platenuts > > I have been running a tap through these. Is this something I should > stop. > Earl RV4 > > Sam Buchanan wrote: > > > > > > Larry Hawkins wrote: > > > > > > > > > I bought an RV-4 project with wings and tail already complete. Working on > > > the fuse now. My question: is it always difficult to put the screws in the > > > platenuts? I am installing the F-419 forward top skin on the -4, and some > > > of the screws just won't screw all the way into the platenut, it gets so > > > tight that I strip out the screw driver slot. What am I doing wrong? any > > > comments or suggestions would be appreciated. > > > Larry Hawkins RV-4 Farmington NM > > > > > > > Larry, get some Boelube, a dry lubricate available from several sources > > including Cleaveland Aircraft Tools. Drag the threads of the screw > > across the Boelube and the screws will go into the plate nuts with no > > difficulty. > > > > No, the lube will not diminish the locking ability of the plate nuts. > > > > By the way, Boelube works great on cowl hinge pins as well! > > > > Sam Buchanan (RV-6) > > "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 02, 2000
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: fresh air vents
--- Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote: > > In a message dated 11/1/00 2:33:05 PM Pacific Standard Time, > jjewell(at)okanagan.net writes: > > > I am laying out the position for the fresh air vents. > > Is there a measurement that will get the fresh air vent hole > > centered on the cowling top and bottom parting line. > > You probably don't want this anyway, because the parting line will > inevitably > leak hot air and it will stream in thru the NACA vents. Wow! This is a great tip! How many people have had that same problem? I was going to mount the air intakes there so as to secure the hinge pin in the vent - but not at the expense of hot air in the intakes. Can the cowl be sealed better to avoid this? Confirmation? Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Fuselage From homework help to love advice, Yahoo! Experts has your answer. http://experts.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: PTT switch wire run
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
Date: Nov 02, 2000
11/02/2000 08:59:19 AM >Also do consider putting the copilot PTT on the panel. Then the >passenger/non-piloting member can handle communications without touching the >stick -- important in an RV due to very sensitive controls. You might want to reconsider this and put one both on the panel AND on the copilots stick. I have flown a 6 from the right seat where the PTT is on the panel and BOY is that inconvenient. Give your pilot passenger a break and don't make him fish around on the panel for a push button while trying out your new airplane for the first time. Let's see, I'm flying twice as fast as I'm used to in a spam can so I have half as much time to setup for this landing. I'm looking for traffic... I'm holding pattern altitude... I've check the air speed... I'm all set to do all that radio stuff but where in the heck is that DAMM PTT!!!!!! :-) - Jim Andrews RV-8A ( fiberglass, why does it always have to be fiberglass!!! ) O-360 Sensenich 85 N89JA reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Re: Preparation of wing ribs
Date: Nov 02, 2000
Hi Are: I use the "Royal Multi-Burr Deburing Tool" listed on page 43 off Avery's 2000 catalogue Part #22022 cost $12.50. With it any circle cut out can be deburred in minutes. Avery's web site www.averytools.com. Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay B.C. -----Original Message----- From: Are Barstad <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> Date: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 5:58 PM Subject: RV-List: Preparation of wing ribs > >I recently followed the 'paranoia' thread with interest and agree that there >are many cases that I wonder if what I build wil be safe. I particulary >remember calling Van's once with a qualiity question when Tom answered >"You're only building an airplane!". :) > >Anyway... > >I am currently at the stage where I'm preparing all the wing ribs. The >manual explains to use a scotchbrite wheel in a diegrinder to smooth/debur >the lightning holes. I haven't been able to find a small enough wheel for >this so I have been smoothing the holes 'manually' with a scotchbrite pad. I >hope this will do. What I'm more worried about though are all the edges on >the small tabs that are cut out in the leading edge of the front ribs. I >can't get between them but they look fairly good just the way they are. I >hope this isn't asking for cracks. > >Any suggestions? > >Are >RV-8 Wings > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 02, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Shower of Sparks Ignition
>> Thanks for the comments on my problem, but I am still confused. Let me >> further describe my engine mags. As I stated before, the engine came with >> two rebuilt mags. The one with the impulse coupling on the right side and >> the mag on the left side contained a device on the rear of the mag with two >> wires protruding. This really confused me. Evidently, the overhaul shop had >> these two mags in their possession and overhauled them for my engine. >> >> When I inquired about this left mag device with the two wires protruding, a >> knowledgeable person said that Bendix Mag Co. calls this device "shower of >> sparks". I then called the mechanic back and he informed me if I don't want >> to use the "shower of sparks", which I don't have a clue how it works, just >> clip the wires and use the impulse coupling on the right mag. Shower of sparks is a special battery augmentation of spark energy delivered by a magneto during cranking. I have a work in progress that I'll share with those who are intrested in this topic. Download the following: http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/sparks2.pdf http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/sos_v1.pdf http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/sos_v1.pdf http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/sos_v1.pdf Be advised there are figures called out in the text that are not supplied and you'll have to do a little sorting of the words against the three drawings that ARE supplied. I don't have time to clean this article up right now but it's good enough to share on a limited basis. I'm not going to link it on the articles index until it's finished so this e-mail message is the ONLY place you'll see 'em listed. In my not so humble opinion, S-o-S ignition is probably the best thing that ever happend to a magneto. If you're not ready to dump these 1940 devices in favor of 1990 devices, you can't do any better in terms of cranking performance than to utilize shower-of-sparks augmentation. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different from ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 02, 2000
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: PTT switch wire run
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote: > > > >Also do consider putting the copilot PTT on the panel. Then the > >passenger/non-piloting member can handle communications without touching > the > >stick -- important in an RV due to very sensitive controls. > > You might want to reconsider this and put one both on the panel AND on the > copilots stick. > > I have flown a 6 from the right seat where the PTT is on the panel and BOY > is that inconvenient. Give your pilot passenger a break and don't make him > fish around on the panel for a push button while trying out your new > airplane for the first time. > > Let's see, I'm flying twice as fast as I'm used to in a spam can so I have > half as much time to setup for this landing. > I'm looking for traffic... > I'm holding pattern altitude... > I've check the air speed... > I'm all set to do all that radio stuff but where in the heck is that DAMM > PTT!!!!!! :-) > > - Jim Andrews > RV-8A ( fiberglass, why does it always have to be fiberglass!!! ) > O-360 Sensenich 85 > N89JA reserved The PTT for the passenger in my RV-6 is on the panel and it has proven to be a very nice arrangement. I normally leave the passenger stick stowed beside the seat since many of my passengers are non-pilots and it makes getting into the plane a lot easier. No PTT in the stick means there are no wires to mess with as the stick is installed/removed. The stick is also my "crash axe". The PTT is right in front of the passenger seat, clearly labeled, and impossible to miss. Never have had any complaints, matter of fact, most pilots are more than happy to let me do the radio work! Sam Buchanan (RV-6) "The RV Journal" http;//home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: fresh air vents
Date: Nov 02, 2000
> Wow! This is a great tip! > How many people have had that same problem? I was going to mount the > air intakes there so as to secure the hinge pin in the vent - but not > at the expense of hot air in the intakes. > Can the cowl be sealed better to avoid this? > Confirmation? If I have this problem it's not obvious. Never have checked it with a temp sensor though. It seems to me the vertical hinge line could leak a lot too, and it will of course all depend on how well your baffling seals, since the hinge line is below the hot air section. At any rate the cool air seems to flow fine in mine. Course I live in the NW where it isn't as much of an issue. I can say one thing -- I sure like having the hinge pin in the vent! Looks way cleaner and doesn't require even a screwdriver to remove. But the main thing is, I don't have to worry about it ever getting into the prop. As for the dimensions -- don't have any on hand but it will vary from plane to plane, and whether it's an S cowl or not. If it just HAS to be centered you'll need to wait until you have your own cowl on before cutting the vents. Otherwise someone else's dimensions should work well enough. Keep in mind you have to leave room between the vent and the rudder pedal bearing blocks to be able to get the blocks/bolts in and out. I didn't think of doing this until after I'd installed the vents. I was lucky -- they're not centered on the hinge line but close enough to be able to make it work. Photo at http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/nacavent.jpg Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: PTT switch wire run
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Nov 02, 2000
11/02/2000 11:30:01 AM On the other hand, the wiring nightmare with relays that is required with a panel mount and two(pilot & co-pilot) grip mounted PTT's can be daunting. Some folks like the KISS (Keep It Simple Solution) approach. With the co-pilot grip mounted PTT you can't easily remove the stick ether ......... Jim does point to some good issues though..........Throw all the thoughts on the table and decide for yourself........good luck. Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com@matronics.com on 11/02/2000 09:59:38 AM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com cc: Subject: Re: RV-List: PTT switch wire run >Also do consider putting the copilot PTT on the panel. Then the >passenger/non-piloting member can handle communications without touching the >stick -- important in an RV due to very sensitive controls. You might want to reconsider this and put one both on the panel AND on the copilots stick. I have flown a 6 from the right seat where the PTT is on the panel and BOY is that inconvenient. Give your pilot passenger a break and don't make him fish around on the panel for a push button while trying out your new airplane for the first time. Let's see, I'm flying twice as fast as I'm used to in a spam can so I have half as much time to setup for this landing. I'm looking for traffic... I'm holding pattern altitude... I've check the air speed... I'm all set to do all that radio stuff but where in the heck is that DAMM PTT!!!!!! :-) - Jim Andrews RV-8A ( fiberglass, why does it always have to be fiberglass!!! ) O-360 Sensenich 85 N89JA reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Craig Paulson" <cpaulson@paulson-training.com>
Subject: Pitot tube installation
Date: Nov 02, 2000
I was fitting the pitot tube last night. I'm using the Gretz Aero heated pitot with static port. The instructions call for 8" of aluminum from the tube for heat dissipation. Then you need a length of plastic so that the tube is removable for maintenance. The it's back to aluminum for the run to the wing root. My question is does the additional pressure loss from corners and curves affect the accuracy of the pitot? Look at this link for a picture of how I plan on installing. http://home.earthlink.net/~ctpaulson/images/rv10-19/pitot1.htm Craig Paulson rv-6a, wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: fresh air vents
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Nov 02, 2000
11/02/2000 11:30:43 AM Our RV-6 (and others) mounted the NASA vent below the parting line on the cowl and back into the metal on the fuselage(five inches or so). We were able to still pull the hinge pin backwards because the upper part of the NASA vent (1/4 inch) from top of vent alligned with the hinge line of the cowl. Worked out very nicely. Mike Thompson (at)matronics.com on 11/02/2000 09:43:25 AM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com cc: Subject: Re: RV-List: fresh air vents --- Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote: > > In a message dated 11/1/00 2:33:05 PM Pacific Standard Time, > jjewell(at)okanagan.net writes: > > > I am laying out the position for the fresh air vents. > > Is there a measurement that will get the fresh air vent hole > > centered on the cowling top and bottom parting line. > > You probably don't want this anyway, because the parting line will > inevitably > leak hot air and it will stream in thru the NACA vents. Wow! This is a great tip! How many people have had that same problem? I was going to mount the air intakes there so as to secure the hinge pin in the vent - but not at the expense of hot air in the intakes. Can the cowl be sealed better to avoid this? Confirmation? Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Fuselage From homework help to love advice, Yahoo! Experts has your answer. http://experts.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Shower of Sparks Ignition
Date: Nov 02, 2000
The list of figures for Bob's article should read.... > http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/sparks2.pdf > http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/sos_v1.pdf > http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/sos_v2.pdf > http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/sos_v3.pdf Ross ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2000 8:03 AM Subject: RV-List: Re: Shower of Sparks Ignition > > >> Thanks for the comments on my problem, but I am still confused. Let me > >> further describe my engine mags. As I stated before, the engine came with > >> two rebuilt mags. The one with the impulse coupling on the right side and > >> the mag on the left side contained a device on the rear of the mag with > two > >> wires protruding. This really confused me. Evidently, the overhaul > shop had > >> these two mags in their possession and overhauled them for my engine. > >> > >> When I inquired about this left mag device with the two wires > protruding, a > >> knowledgeable person said that Bendix Mag Co. calls this device "shower of > >> sparks". I then called the mechanic back and he informed me if I don't > want > >> to use the "shower of sparks", which I don't have a clue how it works, > just > >> clip the wires and use the impulse coupling on the right mag. > > > Shower of sparks is a special battery augmentation of spark energy > delivered by a magneto during cranking. I have a work in progress that > I'll share with those who are intrested in this topic. Download the > following: > > http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/sparks2.pdf > http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/sos_v1.pdf > http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/sos_v1.pdf > http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/sos_v1.pdf > > Be advised there are figures called out in the text that > are not supplied and you'll have to do a little sorting > of the words against the three drawings that ARE supplied. > I don't have time to clean this article up right now but > it's good enough to share on a limited basis. I'm not > going to link it on the articles index until it's finished > so this e-mail message is the ONLY place you'll see 'em > listed. > > In my not so humble opinion, S-o-S ignition is probably > the best thing that ever happend to a magneto. If you're > not ready to dump these 1940 devices in favor of 1990 > devices, you can't do any better in terms of cranking > performance than to utilize shower-of-sparks augmentation. > > > Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com>
Subject: Re: Pitot tube installation
Date: Nov 02, 2000
<cpaulson@paulson-training.com> > > My question is does the additional pressure loss from corners > and curves affect the accuracy of the pitot? Craig, We are talking about pressure here, not flow. It seems to me that the curves and corners should have no affect on the pressure. Nice photo. Terry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net>
Subject: Re: Pitot tube installation
Date: Nov 02, 2000
Craig, I'll be mounting my Gertz heated pitot/static tube shortly so your post and pictures interested me. What rib station are you mounting the pitot at? I confused on something. What is the purpose of the plastic tubing? If it's just for removing purposes, why not just have one union between the two aluminum pieces? Better yet, why not just mount it close enough to the bell crank inspection panel to allow you to remove the union fitting at the pitot tube itself and use no other union fittings. Again, I haven't installed mine yet so maybe I'm missing something. Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res) Plainfield, IL http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page > > I was fitting the pitot tube last night. I'm using the Gretz Aero heated > pitot with static port. The instructions call for 8" of aluminum from the > tube for heat dissipation. Then you need a length of plastic so that the > tube is removable for maintenance. The it's back to aluminum for the run to > the wing root. My question is does the additional pressure loss from corners > and curves affect the accuracy of the pitot? > > Look at this link for a picture of how I plan on installing. > > http://home.earthlink.net/~ctpaulson/images/rv10-19/pitot1.htm > > > Craig Paulson > rv-6a, wings > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Insurance
Date: Nov 02, 2000
> I also got mine from AIG. Don't forget to get your "necessary crew member" > as a named pilot on the policy so said member can perform essential duties > during the flyoff period, and of course, thereafter. This is a good point. Some (most?) policies for experimentals allow for a total of three "named pilots", without extra charge (probably depending on whether they have comparable experience and time in type to you). Even if you think you'd NEVER let anyone else fly your plane, it's not a bad idea to put a couple of trusted RV pilot friends on there, just in case. You never know, you may be in a pinch sometime and need someone to ferry your plane, so why not have them already on the policy? Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Preparation of wing ribs
Date: Nov 02, 2000
Are, Do you have a set of small jewelers files. I picked up a set for about $5.00 just for this reason and have found them to be invaluable for a multitude of stuff. The set has 8 different shaped files and take down the edges much faster than anything else manual that I have found. Mike Robertson RV-8A N809RS >From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: Preparation of wing ribs >Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 20:39:08 -0500 > > >I recently followed the 'paranoia' thread with interest and agree that >there >are many cases that I wonder if what I build wil be safe. I particulary >remember calling Van's once with a qualiity question when Tom answered >"You're only building an airplane!". :) > >Anyway... > >I am currently at the stage where I'm preparing all the wing ribs. The >manual explains to use a scotchbrite wheel in a diegrinder to smooth/debur >the lightning holes. I haven't been able to find a small enough wheel for >this so I have been smoothing the holes 'manually' with a scotchbrite pad. >I >hope this will do. What I'm more worried about though are all the edges on >the small tabs that are cut out in the leading edge of the front ribs. I >can't get between them but they look fairly good just the way they are. I >hope this isn't asking for cracks. > >Any suggestions? > >Are >RV-8 Wings > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)AOL.COM
Date: Nov 02, 2000
Subject: Re: Preparation of wing ribs
In a message dated 11/1/00 5:42:30 PM Pacific Standard Time, abarstad(at)bconnex.net writes: << What I'm more worried about though are all the edges on the small tabs that are cut out in the leading edge of the front ribs. I can't get between >> Try a round needle file and a loosely folded sheet of 320 grit wet or dry. Worked for me. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, working on canopy installation ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Preparation of wing ribs
Date: Nov 02, 2000
or / and a Dremel tool as they have tiny burrs. > Do you have a set of small jewelers files. Hal Kempthorne RV6a N7HK Waiting for weight & balance and the FAA inspector! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Rod end bearings
Date: Nov 02, 2000
I got the idea from searching the archives when I was worried about mis-aligning the horns. Bob Skinner mentioned it. He said...."Drill on a spacer block higher on the elevator horns when the elevators are in perfect alignment and bolt the assembly together." That is what I did....I drilled a #30 hole in one of the elevator horns about 1" above where the hole the rod end bearing will go. I then made two spacer blocks out of scrap alum bar stock and used a drill press to drill a #30 in one. I ran an old #30 drill through the hole in the horn and then the spacer to hold the spacer in place. I aligned the elevators (using a digital level), placed the spacer without the hole in the area of where the rod end bearing will go and clamped the two horns together there. Now remove the old #30 drill and drill through the hole and spacer to the other horn. Disassemble and enlarge the holes for a AN3 bolt. Bolt together and proceed to install the rod end bearing. Ross ----- Original Message ----- From: <pcondon(at)csc.com> Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2000 5:24 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Rod end bearings > > --------------- > Can you briefly outline the method of coupling these two elevator halves > together. This may(help/assist) solve the rod-end-edge-clearance problem > some of us have with the bottom horn bolt hole being mighty close the edge > of the horn > > > "Ross Mickey" (at)matronics.com on 11/01/2000 06:41:33 > PM > > Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com > > Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > > > To: > cc: > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Rod end bearings > > > related to this.... > > I took a suggestion from the List and bolted the two halves of my elevator > horns together. With this arrangment, if the control tube fails, the two > elevators can be controlled with the trim. > > Ross > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Magnito and ignition switch problem - AGAIN.
Date: Nov 02, 2000
If, in fact, you do have an impulse coupleing then you don't need the shower of sparks. You can use it if you want but it is not needed to start. You can either clip the wires or buy little caps that cover the holes. The shower of sparks option on those magnetos is a little internal vibrator that more or less sents a continuous spark to the plugs during the starting sequence. Again, you really don't need them if you have an impluse coupling, especially if you use one of the newer lite-weight high torque starters. Mike Robertson RV-8A N809RS >From: TMB1564(at)AOL.COM >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Magnito and ignition switch problem - AGAIN. >Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2000 06:31:01 EST > > >Thanks for the comments on my problem, but I am still confused. Let me >further describe my engine mags. As I stated before, the engine came with >two rebuilt mags. The one with the impulse coupling on the right side and >the mag on the left side contained a device on the rear of the mag with two >wires protruding. This really confused me. Evidently, the overhaul shop >had >these two mags in their possession and overhauled them for my engine. > >When I inquired about this left mag device with the two wires protruding, a >knowledgeable person said that Bendix Mag Co. calls this device "shower of >sparks". I then called the mechanic back and he informed me if I don't want >to use the "shower of sparks", which I don't have a clue how it works, just >clip the wires and use the impulse coupling on the right mag. > >Any more help on this? > >Thanks a million - Tom Benton RV3B SE Florida Do not >archive. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "<Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com>
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id for" ; Thu, 02 Nov 2000 13:34:04.-0500(at)matronics.com
Date: Nov 02, 2000
Subject: ANNUAL CONTRIBUTION
Howdy folks, It seems our incumbent funds raiser, Al Mojzisik has tapped into the vast wealth of talent I possess (endless running of the mouth) in order to scare up support once again for this outstanding source of information that Matt so graciously provides. Now if his heartfelt plea to support this list for the benefit of the children does not spur you into action, maybe I can hit on the nerves of those that don't have a passel of young-uns to feed and take to soccer. The other night while working at Mason Dixon Engineering (my garage) I was once again perplexed by what exactly Mr. Van was trying to tell me to do on sketch number 42 (the big sketches not the ones in the book). After several minutes of contemplating what I was supposed to do with that odd shaped piece of metal, and contemplating how it is that someone would ever come to need a piece of metal shaped in that particular contortion, I had to admit that I was once again stumped. Now let me digress a little here, I've noticed that there are two kinds of "stumped". There is the stumped that eventually comes to you, usually in the middle of the first good nights sleep in a week. And then there is the stumped that can only be found from others being stumped, like what size hammer do you use to drill a number 40 hole. So I called my local builders (the ones I don't owe money too) and was only able to get a hold of a couple of them since several wives now hang the phone up at the sound of my voice. It seems the only one that had ever run into this problem was good ole Charlie Kuss. Charlie was a great help and was kind enough to point out that the exact use for such a strangely contorted piece of aluminum was clearly illustrated on drawing number 42, and that if I would bother to read the manual that came with the kit then I might not have to disturb him right in the middle of his pay-per-view Yanni concert. After another hour of staring at, drawing is it 42?? I still could not make much sense of what I was supposed to do, although a coffee stain commingled with a rib drawing did take on the exact likeness of Janet Reno. So it was off to my last hope; lets see what Matt's archive has to say. So using the ultrafast search engine and remembering to select "RV-list" this time, I put in my main problem, that being oddly shaped pieces of aluminum. Well, 743 replies seem like a little too much for my short attention span especially since most of them seemed to be heated arguments about how one should prime odd pieces of aluminum. Next I just put in the part number and "hoo-boy" up came a usable list of fellow head scratchers and just how this part had affected their building experience. Since Matt has been doing this a while there were early posts on choosing the appropriate location for mining bauxite for the making of the part (-9 builders take notice), there were posts on how this part should be converted to work with the slider, nose wheel, epoxy cowl mod. And there were quite a few post where people were just plain confused but were helped out by fellow builders that had once been confused themselves. Well out I go into the engineering room again and hammer in hand was able to successfully drill those holes into that odd shaped piece of aluminum that kind of seemed to fit almost like it was made to go there. I guess if there is a point to this story (hey, you were warned at the beginning) it would have to be that I was a real lucky builder to have Matts archive available to me. In all seriousness, its become a habit that when I go to a new assembly, I carry the parts involved up to the office and do a search on every part number. I then carry a stack of paper down to the garage with all of the related posts printed out. I can assure you that this practice saves me at least $50.00 in shipping alone each year since I do not have to order the parts that I for sure would have thrown into the "aw-sh**" pile. For this reason alone I owe Matt my support and would like to make a suggestion to builders that have been at it a year. Think about how many parts you have been able to get the low-down on before trying it out yourself. If you feel that the list was a big help, throw some of that shipping money you didn't have to spend Matts' way. It will just come back to you later. Eric Henson RV-6 To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard, please go to the following URL and follow the simple instructions: http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to: List Contribution c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 Disclaimer: All references to local RV builders ie: Chas Kuss are purely fictional and intended for the purpose of entertainment only. It is not the intent of the author to disclose Charlie's musical taste or evening activities (although we have some theories) nor to discredit the music of Yanni by implying his works would be appreciated by any RV builders, or at least any that would admit it. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: PTT switch wire run
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Nov 02, 2000
11/02/2000 01:51:55 PM Also, the top of the passanger stick with a PTT on a friends RV-6 is allways being keyed (by me and others) when we rest the map or maps on top of the stick........seemingly minor but it happens scores of time on a very long cross country..... Sam Buchanan (at)matronics.com on 11/02/2000 11:18:35 AM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com cc: Subject: Re: RV-List: PTT switch wire run Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote: > > > >Also do consider putting the copilot PTT on the panel. Then the > >passenger/non-piloting member can handle communications without touching > the > >stick -- important in an RV due to very sensitive controls. > > You might want to reconsider this and put one both on the panel AND on the > copilots stick. > > I have flown a 6 from the right seat where the PTT is on the panel and BOY > is that inconvenient. Give your pilot passenger a break and don't make him > fish around on the panel for a push button while trying out your new > airplane for the first time. > > Let's see, I'm flying twice as fast as I'm used to in a spam can so I have > half as much time to setup for this landing. > I'm looking for traffic... > I'm holding pattern altitude... > I've check the air speed... > I'm all set to do all that radio stuff but where in the heck is that DAMM > PTT!!!!!! :-) > > - Jim Andrews > RV-8A ( fiberglass, why does it always have to be fiberglass!!! ) > O-360 Sensenich 85 > N89JA reserved The PTT for the passenger in my RV-6 is on the panel and it has proven to be a very nice arrangement. I normally leave the passenger stick stowed beside the seat since many of my passengers are non-pilots and it makes getting into the plane a lot easier. No PTT in the stick means there are no wires to mess with as the stick is installed/removed. The stick is also my "crash axe". The PTT is right in front of the passenger seat, clearly labeled, and impossible to miss. Never have had any complaints, matter of fact, most pilots are more than happy to let me do the radio work! Sam Buchanan (RV-6) "The RV Journal" http;//home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: virus
Date: Nov 02, 2000
I just found out that my computer was infected with the KaK Worm virus. This virus spreads through email. Your computer may be infected. To find out about this virus go to http://www.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/wscript.kakworm.fix.html I used their fixkak.exe but it didn't seem to work so I followed their manual directions found here http://service1.symantec.com/SUPPORT/nav.nsf/docid/2000020318071406 Ross ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 02, 2000
From: ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips)
Subject: Re: putting screws in platenuts
Why not tap then use blue locktite or other appropriate thread-lock compound? Also: sure wish I could find allen head screws (100 deg. c'sunk) in stainless for my exterior screws- anyone seen any of these? From the PossumWorks Mark Randy Griffin wrote: > It's completely OK to run a tap through your nutplates, as long as you drill a small hole sideways through the end of the screws for a cotter pin. Serously, don't do that. When you do, that negates the locking feature. Use some form of dry lubricant. > > Randy Griffin > >I have been running a tap through these. Is this something I should > >stop. > >Earl RV4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: Thanksgiving, the FADEC
Date: Nov 02, 2000
I don't know.... I could buy a lot of gas for $5000 -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 -----Original Message----- From: bcbraem(at)home.com [mailto:bcbraem(at)home.com] Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2000 3:58 AM To: rv-list Subject: RV-List: Thanksgiving, the FADEC First, do the right thing by Matt. Then, go to http://www.fadec.com and get those deposits ready. Boyd N600SS 225 hrs (54 weeks) SW FL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 02, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Extraction tool for Amp-Leaf Connectors
A list server participant just sent me a picture of the connector used on the back of his MicroMonitor to ask if we stock an extraction tool for it. Actually, I have a tool . . . which I fabricated about 20 years ago. You can see a picture of the tool along with instructions on its fabrication and use at: http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/amplefxt.jpg Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different from ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JusCash(at)AOL.COM
Date: Nov 02, 2000
Subject: Re: Magnito and ignition switch problem - AGAIN.
In a message dated 11/2/00 10:03:40 AM Pacific Standard Time, mrobert569(at)hotmail.com writes: << The shower of sparks option on those magnetos is a little internal vibrator that more or less sents a continuous spark to the plugs during the starting sequence. Again, you really don't need them if you have an impluse coupling, especially if you use one of the newer lite-weight high torque starters. Mike Robertson RV-8A N809RS >> Mike I am going to have to disagree with you. The "Shower of Sparks" ignition system uses an external box containing the vibrator coils. This system uses two sets of points in ONE Mag only. The second of points provides the spark retard needed for starting the engine. The other Mag and the advance points are grounded during starting. This grounding happens in which ever switch system a builder uses. I am using two toggle switches. During the start sequence both switches up results in the right Mag advance points being grounded, the left Mag retard and advance points connected and start vibrator energized to fire the spark plugs. The starter is also connected at this time. This wiring is shown in the Aero Electric Connection. By the way those connection's on the Mag cost $20 to $30 apiece. So don't go clipping them off indiscriminately. Cash Copeland QB #60075 RV6 N46FC (Reserved) Oakland, Ca ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Shower of Sparks (starting vibrator)
Date: Nov 02, 2000
So...what is the feeling of the group on the use of the shower of sparks (starting vibrators)? Bob Nuckolls conclusion in his article is, "If it were MY airplane and I had an opportunity to choose between impulse coupled and SOS magneto, I'd readily prefer the SOS system." I am buying a new O-360 from Van's....mags are included. Aircraft Spruce sells the starter vibrators for about $190. Then there is the Slickstart which goes for about $300. Below is the rap on them. So....comments. Ross 9PT 6-A ___________________________ The FAA-PMA approved SlickSTART magneto booster system integrates solid state electronics with conventional ignition hardware to deliver optimum spark energy for improved engine starting under all operating conditions. SlickSTART delivers over 400% more spark energy during start than conventional impulse coupled or retard breaker systems. This added energy enables the magnetos to fire partially fouled spark plugs, ignite less than optimum fuel mixtures, improve hot engine restarts, and improve starting performance during extreme cold weather operations. SlickSTART can be installed with either impulse coupled or retard breaker magnetos and can be used with either 12 volt or 24 volt electrical systems. Fits all Slick impulse coupled and retard breaker 4200/6200 Series and 4300/6300 Series magnetos. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net
Subject: ANNUAL CONTRIBUTION
Date: Nov 02, 2000
OK!.. OK! Eric. Your e-mail took up all the ram on my computer! I'll contribute. Peter Laurence RV6A Wings Download the Jurassic Park Browser at http://www.jurassicpark.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM
Date: Nov 02, 2000
Subject: Re: whats up?
hey peter isn't it about time to come back to tampa and check out my progress, i have an engine hanging party this sunday, you guys are invited, hows yours comming along? take care scott tampa rv6a fiberglassing wheel pants ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Non-ratcheting Control Cable
Date: Nov 02, 2000
I used a non-ratcheting control cable for my parking brake which I now realize was a mistake. The pull knob vibrates out about 3/4 inch in flight and I am concerned that I may land with the parking brake on -- this will be bad for steering at slow speeds when I begin to use the brakes as they will not release. I have the brake release on my pre-takeoff checklist but not the landing list and I'd rather not rely on a checklist for this operation. Any proven methods of easily converting the cable to ratchet mode? Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 3.8 hours Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Vacuum Regulator Adjustment
Date: Nov 02, 2000
Within the last couple of months there was a message describing which way to turn the vacuum regulator to increase suction. I tried vacuum and regulator and the combination on the search engine without finding it. Could the poster please help me out again. My vacuum is 4.2 and I'd like it closer to 5.5 Thanks. Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 3.8 hours Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "alain nantel" <alain_nantel(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Magnito and ignition switch problem - AGAIN.
Date: Nov 03, 2000
The one with the impulse coupling on the right side and >the mag on the left side contained a device on the rear of the mag with two >wires protruding. This really confused me. Evidently, the overhaul shop >had these two mags in their possession and overhauled them for my >engine.When I inquired about this left mag device with the two wires >protruding, a knowledgeable person said that Bendix Mag Co. calls this >device "shower of>sparks". I then called the mechanic back and he informed >me if I don't want to use the "shower of sparks", which I don't have a clue >how it works, just clip the wires and use the impulse coupling on the right >mag. Hi again Tom For the left one, what you have is a mag that has two sets of points inside, one set is the primary which is used during normal engine operation identified on the cover as "switch". The second one is the retard breaker point which is used for start-up only. Those mags do not use an impulse coupling since they get their high intensity spark (on start-up) from a separate device called "shower of spark". This item get it's electrical power from the aircraft battery and deliver a strong spark via the second wire connection on the mag cover identified as "start". So yes you could just leave that connection open and still use the mag in a normal manner. Finally for your switch connection you could make a small jumper (wire) from the left connector to the terminal that would normally get the jumper plate. Hope this helps a bit more,good luck! Alain_Nantel(at)hotmail.com RV-6 C-GGRS 90% done 90% to go ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 02, 2000
From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Shower of Sparks (starting vibrator)
Or put a lightspeed CDI ignition on one side and get a hotter spark and better advance profile along with better economy and more power. You could keep the mag you removed for when the other one fails. Ed Holyoke RV-6 tail nearly complete Quickbuild Dec/Jan N86ED reserved Ross Mickey wrote: > > So...what is the feeling of the group on the use of the shower of sparks > (starting vibrators)? Bob Nuckolls conclusion in his article is, "If it > were MY airplane and I had an opportunity to choose between impulse coupled > and SOS magneto, I'd readily prefer > the SOS system." > > I am buying a new O-360 from Van's....mags are included. Aircraft Spruce > sells the starter vibrators for about $190. Then there is the Slickstart > which goes for about $300. Below is the rap on them. > > So....comments. > > Ross > 9PT 6-A > > ___________________________ > > The FAA-PMA approved SlickSTART magneto booster system integrates solid > state electronics with conventional ignition hardware to deliver optimum > spark energy for improved engine starting under all operating conditions. > SlickSTART delivers over 400% more spark energy during start than > conventional impulse coupled or retard breaker systems. This added energy > enables the magnetos to fire partially fouled spark plugs, ignite less than > optimum fuel mixtures, improve hot engine restarts, and improve starting > performance during extreme cold weather operations. > > SlickSTART can be installed with either impulse coupled or retard breaker > magnetos and can be used with either 12 volt or 24 volt electrical systems. > Fits all Slick impulse coupled and retard breaker 4200/6200 Series and > 4300/6300 Series magnetos. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Magnito and ignition switch problem - AGAIN.
Date: Nov 02, 2000
Cash, I agree with what you say about the separate box. I was just attempting to keep the explanation short. Maybe not a good idea. The bottom line was that with the impulse coupling it is not a necessity to have the shower of sparks. Also you can buy a screw-on cap without the wire for this. So the best thing to do is just unscrew the cap with the pigtail and put a new cap on. Mike Robertson RV-8A N809RS >From: JusCash(at)AOL.COM >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Magnito and ignition switch problem - AGAIN. >Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2000 16:08:15 EST > > >In a message dated 11/2/00 10:03:40 AM Pacific Standard Time, >mrobert569(at)hotmail.com writes: > ><< > The shower of sparks option on those magnetos is a little internal >vibrator > that more or less sents a continuous spark to the plugs during the >starting > sequence. Again, you really don't need them if you have an impluse > coupling, especially if you use one of the newer lite-weight high torque > starters. > > Mike Robertson > RV-8A N809RS >> > >Mike I am going to have to disagree with you. The "Shower of Sparks" >ignition system uses an external box containing the vibrator coils. This >system uses two sets of points in ONE Mag only. The second of points >provides the spark retard needed for starting the engine. The other Mag >and >the advance points are grounded during starting. This grounding happens in >which ever switch system a builder uses. > >I am using two toggle switches. During the start sequence both switches up >results in the right Mag advance points being grounded, the left Mag retard >and advance points connected and start vibrator energized to fire the spark >plugs. The starter is also connected at this time. This wiring is shown >in >the Aero Electric Connection. > >By the way those connection's on the Mag cost $20 to $30 apiece. So don't >go >clipping them off indiscriminately. > >Cash Copeland >QB #60075 >RV6 N46FC (Reserved) >Oakland, Ca > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kcskiflyer" <klwski1(at)pouch.com>
Subject: Fiberglass tips
Date: Nov 02, 2000
I'm going to finnish the fiberglass on my RV-9A emp this weekend and was wondering how I should close up the gap between the glass and the aluminum, should I glass it, "bondo" it, or what? The fairings will not have to come off ( no lights or antenni) whats the best looking way to do this. I've painted many cars and several boats all with some body work involved so I'm not afraid to make the whole thing smooth. I don't want to make it heavey and slow and I wan't some of that RV speed out of this machine, any sugestions would help. Thanks Ken RV-9A emp, wings Dec 10th Lyc 0-290-D 0SMOH Long Island NY ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 07, 2000
From: wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net
Subject: Re: Vacuum Regulator Adjustment
Dennis, I have RAPCO KIT pump and regulator. Clockwise will increase the pressure. I made a 1/4 turn at a time and waited a few flights before adjusting again as the pressure fluctuated after adjustment. Anh -6 N985VU Maryland > >Within the last couple of months there was a message describing which way to >turn the vacuum regulator to increase suction. I tried vacuum and regulator >and the combination on the search engine without finding it. Could the >poster please help me out again. My vacuum is 4.2 and I'd like it closer to >5.5 >Thanks. > >Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 3.8 hours >Hampshire, IL C38 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 02, 2000
From: Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)aa.net>
Subject: RV-8 project, all sheet metal done, plus IO-360
Here's a real good deal for somebody. We've traded for an RV-8 project, but we'd really prefer a nosewheel so my wife (currently a student pilot) can move up to the RV more easily. We'd like to sell the RV-8 project so we can build an RV-8A (we would consider a trade for an RV-6A). The RV-8 has the sheet metal work beautifully done by Martin Sutter, who has taught RV construction for Avery. Essentially all the sheet metal work is done, whereas an out of the box QuickBuild requires you to build the tail section, close up the wings, and do some fuselage work - and that's already done on this plane. The engine installation, panel, and canopy are yet to be done. This RV-8 also has electric trim, wiring and lighting, rear rudder pedals, and some other goodies. In addition to the airframe, we've also got for sale: * IO-360-A3B6D first runout from a Mooney, including * a brand new Ayars-Demuth prop * some "as is" instruments from a Cessna 172 * some "as is" radios -- a set of Collins nav/comms, a Cessna nav/comm, and a Northstar Loran. But wait, there's still more! If we get in contact before November 8, we can possibly deliver between the midwest and the northwest (no waiting for a quickbuild kit!). Since we'll be on the road soon, best to reply by phone, not email. Ed Wischmeyer 425 269-9034 (Cindy's cell phone) -- NOTE: 5% of messages sent to me don't make it, so use a return receipt to insure delivery. The phone company system drops packets. - - - - - - - - Ed Wischmeyer Web page: http://members.aa.net/~edwisch Email: edwisch(at)alum.mit.edu name="edwisch.vcf" filename="edwisch.vcf" begin:vcard n:Wischmeyer;Ed tel;fax:425 898-9566 tel;home:425 898-9856 adr:;;;;;; version:2.1 email;internet:edwisch(at)alum.mit.edu fn:Ed Wischmeyer end:vcard ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 02, 2000
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Who is Matt Dralle? (Part One)
Fellow Listers..........we are now just in the beginning stages of the millennium fund raiser for the RV-list. It just occurred to me that some of you may not even know who Matt Dralle is. Like other major candidates have done in the past, let me introduce you to Matt Dralle, the man from Hope......uhh......I mean Livermore. Matt was born Matte Dralle to his humble and loving parents Mr. and Mrs. Dralle. They originally named him Matte but decided later to drop the "e" on the end of his name. As caring as Matt's parents were, Mr. and Mrs. Dralle still forgot to tell Al Mojzisik that they dropped the "e" at the end of Matt's first name causing Mr. Mojzisik great embarrassment during a fund raiser conducted for Matt much later in life around the turn of the century. But I digress....... Matt's Mom and Dad noticed early on in Matt's life that he was a "special" child. When other kids went out to play with their balls ehhhh.......and bats, Matt would be busy with two tin cans and a string trying to improve communications between the bases. You see, Matt figured if the players had better communication between their positions out on the field, the game could be played more efficiently and the players would make fewer costly mistakes. Of course the other kids didn't understand Matt's logic so they physically removed him from the field. During one close game Matt's communication device got wrapped up in the legs of a particularly large opposing player who chased Matt down and kicked him so hard on the backside that Matts love for flying was born. Upon landing, Matt's future was clear to him. He had to find a way to get rid of the string between the cans. So after inventing the 2-way battery operated Comm radio, Matt thought he had solved the communication problems between bases. But alas.............Matt realized too late that you can't key the mike (He named it "Mike" after his best friend) with a glove on your hand or conversely you can't catch a ball with a radio in your hand. (Just like you can't build an RV with your head up your ahh....uhh...well never mind!) Matt was crushed! He took his Comm radio's that he called IC-A22's and started walking home. Being bored, Matt decided to take a short cut home through Livermore Airport. As Matt walked past some of the hangers and the tower, he noticed a lot of airplane guys. (He knew they were airplane guys because they looked like they didn't have any money), anyway, these airplane folks were yelling at each other with their hands cupped around there mouths. The tower guys were yelling at the top of their lungs for some guy in a Ford, Thunderbird to get off the ramp before he hits a plane. They were also screaming the landing clearances to the planes as they flew by the tower in low and slow flight. Matt saw this and looked down at his hands holding the IC-A22's he had invented and had a really great idea! But he soon realized it was totally unworkable. He knew airplane guys couldn't be taught American Sign Language. Most of them had way too many holes and scars in there hands from #40 drills and aluminum cuts. And most of their hands were deformed from the excess use of Cleco pliers. So, dejected once again, Matt handed his radios to a guy who worked for a company called ICOM that made fertilizer and went home to tinker with his new toy............a Commadore Computer! And now a word from our sponsor.......................... To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard, please go to the following URL and follow the simple instructions: http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to: List Contribution c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 I bet you think you know where this is going...........to be continued.........AL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2000
From: Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz>
Subject: Re: virus
Ross Mickey wrote: > I just found out that my computer was infected with the KaK Worm virus. > This virus spreads through email. Your computer may be infected. Thanks for letting the List know, but I think it's extremely unlikely that anyone else's computer is infected. However, I believe that Matt's software strips out all attachments anyway, so there shouldn't be any way for people to get infected via the RV-list. [Matt, can you confirm that?] What's more, the virus attachs itself as an attachment to outgoing email. The attachment gets executed by Outlook Express when the mail is read. So this virus can only infect machines where Outlook Express is used to read email. This security hole in Outlook Express was fixed last year -- I recommend that everyone regularly runs MS Windows Automatic Update regularly. If you've done that, then you're safe (at least, from this virus and others like it). What I'm saying here to RV-list members is "DON'T PANIC". Almost certainly, you haven't been infected. Frank. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Nov 03, 2000
Subject: Re: putting screws in platenuts
In a message dated 11/2/00 12:04:37 PM Pacific Standard Time, ripsteel(at)edge.net writes: << Why not tap then use blue Loctite or other appropriate thread-lock compound? Also: sure wish I could find Allen head screws (100 deg. c'sunk) in stainless for my exterior screws- anyone seen any of these? >> No. They don't exist. All are 82 degree ANSI or MS. Steve Barnard used some beautiful tri-wing drive 8-32x1/2 100 degree countersunk screws to hold his tanks on that he claimed were titanium. I don't know the MS number or where he got them. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Shower of Sparks (starting vibrator)
Date: Nov 02, 2000
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> > Or put a lightspeed CDI ignition on one side There is a significant difference in price,,,,$860 for Plasma Plus and $1075 for Plasma Plus II as compared with $190 for the starting vibrator. Ross ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Fiberglass tips
Date: Nov 03, 2000
RV-List message posted by: "kcskiflyer" > I'm going to finnish the fiberglass on my RV-9A emp this weekend and was > wondering how I should close up the gap between the glass and the aluminum, > should I glass it, "bondo" it, or what? The fairings will not have to come > off ( no lights or antenni) whats the best looking way to do this. I've > painted many cars and several boats all with some body work involved so I'm > not afraid to make the whole thing smooth. I don't want to make it heavey > and slow and I wan't some of that RV speed out of this machine, any > sugestions would help. Ken: This topic was covered in the sixth issue (1999) of the RVATOR, including a number of pictures. It explained the whole process in very good detail. Ernest Kells RV-9A - Building Wings Planning: O-235/Wood Prop Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario Email: ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Nov 03, 2000
Subject: Re: Non-ratcheting Control Cable
In a message dated 11/2/00 4:22:03 PM Pacific Standard Time, dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes: << I used a non-ratcheting control cable for my parking brake which I now realize was a mistake. The pull knob vibrates out about 3/4 inch in flight and I am concerned that I may land with the parking brake on -- this will be bad for steering at slow speeds when I begin to use the brakes as they will not release. I have the brake release on my pre-takeoff checklist but not the landing list and I'd rather not rely on a checklist for this operation. Any proven methods of easily converting the cable to ratchet mode? >> I agree that you should definitely order the ratchet version for parking brakes, oil cooler door and carb heat. If it's an ACS cable it may be convertible. The ratchet versions merely have a cut in the mounting barrel at the rear with a simple spring that bears against ridges in the shaft. Pull the shaft far enough out to see if it has ridges near where the cable attaches. If so, then you may be able to get the spring from ACS and modify the mounting barrel to accept it. Check out other builders in your area to see how the barrel gets slotted for the spring. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net>
Subject: Buying experimental
Date: Nov 02, 2000
Can a Canadian import a completed experimental aircraft from the US? If so what is it registered under? Steve Hurlbut shurlbut(at)island.net RV-6 emp C-FSND Comox, BC, Canada ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
Subject: Re: Fiberglass tips
Date: Nov 03, 2000
Ken, Two points on adding the fiberglass tips. I would screw them on with the small #4 screws and nutplates rather than pop rivets and bondo. No so much because of the weight, but the screws look more professional IMHO and will look nicer longer. Also, the bondo will eventually crack along the joint line and you will get a small line anyway. At this crack, the paint and bondo can chip off. Also, the screws and nutplates are actually easier and take less time to do. I pop riveted mine on and I wish I hadn't. Second, if you want to close the gap, do the following. Mount all the screws and nutplates. Lay ONE layer of duct tape over the aluminum making sure to go over the edge and around the backside slightly. Mount the tip and screw it down. Cover the screws. Force bondo/filler material of your choice in the crack. Once hardened, sand with 80 grit sandpaper down to the duct tape. Use care to not go through the tape but sand the surface down as far as you can. Then remove the tip and tape. Finish sand the part and slightly round the edge. I use 240 grit wet/dry. That should give you a nice straight and even edge along the entire joint line. Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 Indianapolis (93 hours) ----- Original Message ----- From: kcskiflyer <klwski1(at)pouch.com> Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2000 8:53 PM Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass tips > > I'm going to finnish the fiberglass on my RV-9A emp this weekend and was > wondering how I should close up the gap between the glass and the aluminum, > should I glass it, "bondo" it, or what? The fairings will not have to come > off ( no lights or antenni) whats the best looking way to do this. I've > painted many cars and several boats all with some body work involved so I'm > not afraid to make the whole thing smooth. I don't want to make it heavey > and slow and I wan't some of that RV speed out of this machine, any > sugestions would help. > > Thanks > Ken > RV-9A > emp, wings Dec 10th > Lyc 0-290-D 0SMOH > Long Island NY > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2000
From: Chris Sheehan <ctsheehan(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Buying experimental
Don't take this as gospel, but my understanding is that we can't import from the U.S. to Canada due to our inspection requirements (which aren't required in the U.S.). Best to talk to the RAA or Transport to confirm. Chris Sheehan Mississauga, ON Steve Hurlbut wrote: > > > Can a Canadian import a completed experimental aircraft from the US? > If so what is it registered under? > > Steve Hurlbut > shurlbut(at)island.net > RV-6 emp > C-FSND > Comox, BC, Canada > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Buying experimental
Date: Nov 03, 2000
> Can a Canadian import a completed experimental aircraft from the US? > If so what is it registered under? Steve, the following is a quote from page 9 of Section III of the RAA Builders Manual. You probably should contact the RAA directly for an important question like this one. "At present, Canadian amateur-built aircraft have been accepted for sale in the U.S, by the FAA. American semi-complete and complete amateur-built aircraft cannot be bought and imported into Canada." Ernest Kells RV-9A - Building Wings, Planning: O-235 Wood Prop SaultSte. Marie, Ontario ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 02, 2000
From: Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)ticnet.com>
Subject: Re: Insurance
Several responses speak highly of AIG. It should be noted that you must select an agent first of all...he will get the prices from all the underwriters such as AIG (only AVEMCO sells direct, I believe). And the first agent you retain is it...subsequent quotes from the five or so underwriters will not be forthcoming...you are frozen with the first agent. As mentioned, many agents are noted in the yellar pages...and a few have been recommended here...so choose who you want for years to come! Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas -6A flying past 300 hours jerryb wrote: > > > Hello All, > I just got a notice that my Insurance Co. is not gonna renew > Ins. on > experimentals. > I need some advice and companies that insure RV's. Phone > numbers would > also be helpful. > Thanks, JerryB > RV6 N40JP > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com>
Subject: Shower of Sparks
Date: Nov 03, 2000
Hi Folks, For a lot less money, you could install any of the electronic ignition systems now available to homebuilders. Not only do they deliver a hot spark on startup, you can also use standard automotive plugs future maintenance cost reductions. I've been running Jeff Rose's system for over a year now, with automotive plugs, with no problems.... Fred Stucklen N925RV (1650 hrs/7 Yrs) E. Windsor, CT 06088 WK Email: stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com Hm/Travel Email: wstucklen1(at)juno.com ___ From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> Subject: RV-List: Shower of Sparks (starting vibrator) So...what is the feeling of the group on the use of the shower of sparks (starting vibrators)? Bob Nuckolls conclusion in his article is, "If it were MY airplane and I had an opportunity to choose between impulse coupled and SOS magneto, I'd readily prefer the SOS system." I am buying a new O-360 from Van's....mags are included. Aircraft Spruce sells the starter vibrators for about $190. Then there is the Slickstart which goes for about $300. Below is the rap on them. So....comments. Ross 9PT 6-A ___________________________ The FAA-PMA approved SlickSTART magneto booster system integrates solid state electronics with conventional ignition hardware to deliver optimum spark energy for improved engine starting under all operating conditions. SlickSTART delivers over 400% more spark energy during start than conventional impulse coupled or retard breaker systems. This added energy enables the magnetos to fire partially fouled spark plugs, ignite less than optimum fuel mixtures, improve hot engine restarts, and improve starting performance during extreme cold weather operations. SlickSTART can be installed with either impulse coupled or retard breaker magnetos and can be used with either 12 volt or 24 volt electrical systems. Fits all Slick impulse coupled and retard breaker 4200/6200 Series and 4300/6300 Series magnetos. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2000
From: David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: RV-8 project, all sheet metal done, plus IO-360
Ed: What are you asking for the RV8 project alone. No engine, etc. Dave Aronson Ed Wischmeyer wrote: > > > Here's a real good deal for somebody. We've traded for an RV-8 project, > but we'd really prefer a nosewheel so my wife (currently a student > pilot) can move up to the RV more easily. We'd like to sell the RV-8 > project so we can build an RV-8A (we would consider a trade for an RV-6A). > > The RV-8 has the sheet metal work beautifully done by Martin Sutter, who > has taught RV construction for Avery. Essentially all the sheet metal > work is done, whereas an out of the box QuickBuild requires you to build > the tail section, close up the wings, and do some fuselage work - and > that's already done on this plane. The engine installation, panel, and > canopy are yet to be done. This RV-8 also has electric trim, wiring and > lighting, rear rudder pedals, and some other goodies. > > In addition to the airframe, we've also got for sale: > * IO-360-A3B6D first runout from a Mooney, including > * a brand new Ayars-Demuth prop > * some "as is" instruments from a Cessna 172 > * some "as is" radios -- a set of Collins nav/comms, a Cessna nav/comm, > and a Northstar Loran. > > But wait, there's still more! If we get in contact before November 8, we > can possibly deliver between the midwest and the northwest (no waiting > for a quickbuild kit!). Since we'll be on the road soon, best to reply > by phone, not email. > > Ed Wischmeyer > 425 269-9034 (Cindy's cell phone) > > -- > > NOTE: 5% of messages sent to me don't make it, so use a return receipt to > insure delivery. The phone company system drops packets. > > - - - - - - - - > > Ed Wischmeyer > Web page: http://members.aa.net/~edwisch > Email: edwisch(at)alum.mit.edu > name="edwisch.vcf" > filename="edwisch.vcf" > > begin:vcard > n:Wischmeyer;Ed > tel;fax:425 898-9566 > tel;home:425 898-9856 > adr:;;;;;; > version:2.1 > email;internet:edwisch(at)alum.mit.edu > fn:Ed Wischmeyer > end:vcard > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2000
From: "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: Re: Fiberglass tips
The Stribling's wrote: > > > I'am getting ready to mount my wing tips and want to use screws, what is > the best way of attaching the nut plates to fiberglass tips > Cut a long skinny metal strip and use that as a backing plate with which to attach the platenuts or rivets. Andy ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fiberglass tips
Date: Nov 03, 2000
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Fiberglass tips Thread-Index: AcBFqjVDzLYXc+iyRVSK1vyG+DPGpAAADCPA
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
I used #6 nutplates and stainless screws, and riveted the nutplates right to the fiberglass tip. Fiberglass is strong stuff, and plenty of meat is there to countersink for the #6 screws; there's no need for a bonded aluminum strip to attach the nutplates to. Bob Japundza RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 53 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: Fiberglass tips
Date: Nov 03, 2000
> I'm going to finnish the fiberglass on my RV-9A emp this weekend and was > wondering how I should close up the gap between the glass and the aluminum, > should I glass it, "bondo" it, or what? The fairings will not have to come > off ( no lights or antenni) whats the best looking way to do this. I've > painted many cars and several boats all with some body work involved so I'm > not afraid to make the whole thing smooth. I don't want to make it heavey > and slow and I wan't some of that RV speed out of this machine, any > sugestions would help. > > Thanks > Ken > RV-9A Ken, This is an area of builder preference. Walk the flight light at any fly-in with RVs and you will see tips both filled in and left "as-is". One thing though, aircraft are subject to tremendous vibration and many (most?) builders who opt to fair them in experience cracking at some point in the future, especially if polyester bondo or equivalent is used. So, as with many things in building these planes, it's your call. Personally, I have not filled anything in because I think cracking looks worse than the pop rivets, and I want to be able to find them should they have to come off for any reason. To me, there is a certain functional aesthetic to seeing the construction method as well. FWIW, Randy Lervold RV-8, #80500, painting www.rv-8.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gregory Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: Non-ratcheting Control Cable
Date: Nov 03, 2000
If the shaft just behind the knob has ribs on it, then there should be a slot on the housing designed to hold a wire clip that catches on the ribs. You should be able to make a clip from piano wire or a paper clip or get one off a worn out cable. If there is no slot or ribs, you could make them with your Dremel tool. Regards, Greg Young RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) wiring & systems -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dennis Persyk Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2000 6:14 PM Subject: RV-List: Non-ratcheting Control Cable I used a non-ratcheting control cable for my parking brake which I now realize was a mistake. The pull knob vibrates out about 3/4 inch in flight and I am concerned that I may land with the parking brake on -- this will be bad for steering at slow speeds when I begin to use the brakes as they will not release. I have the brake release on my pre-takeoff checklist but not the landing list and I'd rather not rely on a checklist for this operation. Any proven methods of easily converting the cable to ratchet mode? Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 3.8 hours Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Terminaltown(at)AOL.COM
Date: Nov 03, 2000
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Clamps
homebuilt-list(at)matronics.com, lancair-list(at)matronics.com, rocket-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com, zenith-list(at)matronics.com In a message dated 11/2/00 10:49:29 PM Pacific Standard Time, larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com writes: << The education continues. A couple of days ago, I went to the local Ace Hardware Aircraft Supply, and bought a handful of clamps. I think they're called "Adel Clamps," or some such. So, now that my money's safely spent, tonight I read the new Nov. 2000 issue of Custom Planes, the article has a key, telling which code signifies what, and the properties of each. My shiny new clamps are stamped " G10," which turns out to be "low carbon steel band, with chloroprene cushion, good to 212 degrees F." 10 is the size in 16th's. No - these aren't a "perfect 10." Well, the cushion is good, but the band is not recommended for aircraft use. Wouldn't ya know it. >> Hello Big Lar: DG = Aluminum band, (212F) Chloroprene Cushion Chloroprene - Used in general purpose areas where there is a possibilty of contaminated with petroleum based hydraulic fluids and occasional fuel splash. Excellent ozone resistant. Not resistant to phosphate-ester based fluids. Color of cushion is black with a blue identifier marking. Do not use on titanium tubing. Also cushion has a wegge to stop over tightening We carry DG Adel Mil Spec clamps and they will fit your needs. They are at http://www.terminaltown.com or click here Terminal Town's Electrical Connectors Mil Spec Adel Clamps Also Bob N. has a very good page of info on Adels at http://www.aeroelectric/articles/adel.com or click here Adel Clamps John @ Terminal Town ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Nov 03, 2000
Subject: List Fund Raiser Continues...
Hello Listers! This is just a reminder that the Annual List Fund Raiser is currently underway. Won't you make a Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade of this valuable resource? Your Contribution can be made via a Secure SSL Internet Transaction with your Visa or MasterCard at the URL shown below or you may send it via US Mail to the address also listed below.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution or c/o Matt Dralle Matronics P.O. Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 Thank you for your support! Your generosity directly makes this List possible. Matt Dralle Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2000
From: Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Insurance
So far, my experience with the Van's sponsered "VanGuard" has been good. I have my project ins. with them as well as my renters ins. There is more info on Van's website. I use to be with Avemco. -Larry > jerryb wrote: > > > > > > Hello All, > > I just got a notice that my Insurance Co. is not gonna renew > > Ins. on > > experimentals. > > I need some advice and companies that insure RV's. Phone > > numbers would > > also be helpful. > > Thanks, JerryB > > RV6 N40JP From homework help to love advice, Yahoo! Experts has your answer. http://experts.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2000
From: Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Aileron Gap Seal Clearance
Yes, I've looked in the archives and there is still confusion. Several archived messages indicate that there is a spec for this gap, but my call to Van's last night says there is none. Mine are installed *exactly* per plans on sheet 16 and I have, maybe, 1/16 inch without any binding. There is nothing in the manual or plans about the gap. My question is what gap are folks flying (not building) with? My guess is that if it were a critical number, it would be noted in the manual and on the drawing. Chris Browne -6A finish Atlanta ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: To shim or not to shim, that is the question.
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
Date: Nov 03, 2000
11/03/2000 02:31:02 PM Doing that whole proseal, attach hinges, cowl thing this weekend and I notice that the shims called out to shim the cowl hinges that attach to the firewall are not really needed in most places. The fit is flat without the shims. Am I missing something here? By not attaching the shims am I setting myself up for heartache later after I have it all sealed and riveted??? What say ye experienced RV-8(A) cowl fasteners. Thx, Jim Andrews RV-8A ( sanding and more sanding ) O-360 Sensenich 85 N89JA reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aileron Gap Seal Clearance
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Nov 03, 2000
11/03/2000 04:19:22 PM The RV-4's here in south NJ all have 3/8th inch gap. The RV-6 in my hanger has a fat 3/8th inch also..........Now I'am confused....situation normal. Chris Browne (at)matronics.com on 11/03/2000 03:18:29 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com cc: Subject: RV-List: Aileron Gap Seal Clearance Yes, I've looked in the archives and there is still confusion. Several archived messages indicate that there is a spec for this gap, but my call to Van's last night says there is none. Mine are installed *exactly* per plans on sheet 16 and I have, maybe, 1/16 inch without any binding. There is nothing in the manual or plans about the gap. My question is what gap are folks flying (not building) with? My guess is that if it were a critical number, it would be noted in the manual and on the drawing. Chris Browne -6A finish Atlanta ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CW9371(at)AOL.COM
Date: Nov 03, 2000
Subject: Re: virus
Also and most important make sure you use norton antivirus or something similiar and keep it updated and then you won't have any problems like this. One other thing. If you have a DSL or Cable modem please use a firewall. thanks chris wilcox F1 rocket ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2000
From: bcbraem(at)home.com
Subject: Re: Aileron Gap Seal Clearance
Chris-- There may be some confusion in terminology, here. The ailerons have a "fairing" on the wing side of the aileron that roughly parallels the curvature of the leading edge of the aileron. On the RV-6, the bottom of the fairing gap is approx. 5/8" and the top of the gap is approx. 5/16" with the aileron in trail position, according to the dimensions on drawing 16 in my plans. The fairing gap changes quite a bit during max. travel of the ailerons and this is part of the Frize design. These are Frize ailerons and the gap is necessary for airflow between the bottom wing surface and the top aileron surface. The slight constriction of the fairing gap from bottom to top improves the pressure differential over the top surface of the aileron. This is NOT a gap seal and and any type of gap seal would detrimentally affect the performance of the ailerons. Control surfaces that can use a gap seal are: Vert. Stab. to rudder and Horizontal Stab. to elevators. Some folks claim that you can use a gap seal on only one side of the rudder or elevators because the purpose of the seal is primarily to block the airflow in the gap between the fixed and moveable control surfaces, which affects the pressure gradient, and only secondarily to provide streamlining. The flaps are pretty well sealed as built, which is why metal or low-friction tape should be used between the flap and the wing top skin contact area. > > > Yes, I've looked in the archives and there is still confusion. Several > archived messages indicate that there is a spec for this gap, but my > call to Van's last night says there is none. Mine are installed > *exactly* per plans on sheet 16 and I have, maybe, 1/16 inch without any > binding. There is nothing in the manual or plans about the gap. > > My question is what gap are folks flying (not building) with? My guess > is that if it were a critical number, it would be noted in the manual > and on the drawing. > > Chris Browne > -6A finish > Atlanta > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2000
From: Chuck Weyant <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com>
shannons , nightingalemichael , "eric.j.henson" , coglesby , curran , jkginth , mschrimmer , Kevin Shannon , Eddy Fernandez , Jim Streit , RV-List: RV-9A , Robert Watson , Russ Clifford
Subject: Alternator
Bought a high time engine (O-320 E3D). I suspect the alternator that came with it (frozen up and in need of rebuilding) is not the alternator originally off it. I took the alternator in to have it rebuilt and the technician verified that it was an aircraft alternator, or more correctly, it is "set up for aircraft use". But the cooling veins would be running backwards he said. The alternator is set up for clockwise rotation and as we know, for aircraft use the rotation will be counter-clockwise. Seems to me I read that this is not a problem. Any or your thoughts would be appreciated. -- Regards, Chuck Weyant EMail Me: chuck(at)chuckdirect.com WebSite: http://www.chuckdirect.com Santa Maria, CA 805 347-8882 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2000
From: bcbraem(at)home.com
Subject: Re: Alternator
Chuck-- The alternator runs great in either direction. As long as the cooling air tube is directed towards the middle of the alternator cooling vents you should be doing just great--no matter which way it turns. Coolings "veins"???--as a doctor, I would advise IV fluids. Boyd. > > > Bought a high time engine (O-320 E3D). I suspect the alternator that > came with it (frozen up and in need of rebuilding) is not the alternator > originally off it. I took the alternator in to have it rebuilt and the > technician verified that it was an aircraft alternator, or more > correctly, it is "set up for aircraft use". But the cooling veins would > be running backwards he said. The alternator is set up for clockwise > rotation and as we know, for aircraft use the rotation will be > counter-clockwise. > > Seems to me I read that this is not a problem. Any or your thoughts > would be appreciated. > > -- > Regards, > > Chuck Weyant > EMail Me: chuck(at)chuckdirect.com > WebSite: http://www.chuckdirect.com > Santa Maria, CA > 805 347-8882 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2000
From: Chuck Weyant <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com>
Subject: Alternator Cooling Fans
Okay got all kinds of undeliverable stuff back from my last attempt at posting. My appologies to all if I am screwing up: Is it really true that the cooling fans on an alternator don't care which way they rotate? Regards, Chuck Weyant---RV9A, Ready to ProSeal the Tanks ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2000
From: bcbraem(at)home.com
Subject: Re: Alternator
Chuck-- The alternator runs great in either direction. As long as the cooling air tube is directed towards the middle of the alternator cooling vents you should be doing just great--no matter which way it turns. Coolings "veins"???--as a doctor, I would advise IV fluids. Boyd. > > > Bought a high time engine (O-320 E3D). I suspect the alternator that > came with it (frozen up and in need of rebuilding) is not the alternator > originally off it. I took the alternator in to have it rebuilt and the > technician verified that it was an aircraft alternator, or more > correctly, it is "set up for aircraft use". But the cooling veins would > be running backwards he said. The alternator is set up for clockwise > rotation and as we know, for aircraft use the rotation will be > counter-clockwise. > > Seems to me I read that this is not a problem. Any or your thoughts > would be appreciated. > > -- > Regards, > > Chuck Weyant > EMail Me: chuck(at)chuckdirect.com > WebSite: http://www.chuckdirect.com > Santa Maria, CA > 805 347-8882 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2000
From: bcbraem(at)home.com
Subject: Re: whats up?
Scott-- Is the hanging at the airport POKnight? Boyd. > > > hey peter > isn't it about time to come back to tampa and check out my progress, i have > an engine hanging party this sunday, you guys are invited, > hows yours comming along? > take care > scott > tampa rv6a fiberglassing wheel pants > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2000
From: bcbraem(at)home.com
Subject: Re: whats up?
Scott-- Is the hanging at the airport POKnight? Boyd. > > > hey peter > isn't it about time to come back to tampa and check out my progress, i have > an engine hanging party this sunday, you guys are invited, > hows yours comming along? > take care > scott > tampa rv6a fiberglassing wheel pants > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: clayfly(at)libertybay.com
Subject: Fuel Consumption Chart for O-360-A1A
Date: Nov 03, 2000
Fellow Listers, Does someone have a SIMPLE way to compute expected fuel consumption using cruise altitude, MAP and RPM? I'm just not getting there with my copy of the Lycoming Operator's Manual. I don't want to spend countless hours boring holes in the sky at various altitudes and power settings to establish the numbers and I don't have a fuel flow meter onboard. Thanks, Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X --- lot's of flying this week!!! Indiana ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rquinn1(at)AOL.COM
Date: Nov 03, 2000
Subject: Re: To shim or not to shim, that is the question.
Jim, If you have the newer cowling little or no shimming is required. Good luck Rod and Rollie 6A finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM
Date: Nov 03, 2000
Subject: engine hot start problem
My engine guru is out of town, so I will run this past the list, with everyone's permission... (Carbureted O-320, dual magnetos, 150 trouble-free hours until now) The last two times I have visited the local mountaintop airport at 3780 ft MSL, I have encountered a new problem: after shut-down of about 10-15 minutes I have no trouble getting an un-primed restart, but the engine will only idle for about 3 to 5 seconds before abruptly cutting off. "What the hey - ?!" Restart is then very difficult; I tried rich and lean mixture settings, primer, throttle accelerator pump, letting her sit awhile in case she was flooded. Both times that it happened, last week and today, I've cranked the starter so much that I thought I was going to end up with a dead battery or face a fun time trying to hand-prop... Today I finally achieved a restart by shutting off the electric fuel pump. I thought since the extra fuel didn't help matters, perhaps there was fuel getting past the needle and seat with the boost pump on...? Maybe it was just coincidence. Several times she restarted only to die again in a few seconds at high idle. It's spooky to attempt a take off just a few minutes after your Lycoming does that to you! Is this the way vapor lock behaves? I'm burning mogas and I'm sure the blend is now more of a winter, high-vapor-pressure blend than it was this summer at the pump. The 10 minute shut-downs would give an opportunity for heat soak in the engine compartment. Ideas on what to look into and how to diagnose the problem systematically next time this occurs are most welcome. I intend to try some restart experiments at the home field tomorrow (1000 MSL) to see if the altitude has any bearing on it. Bill Boyd RV-6A O-320/FP Sensenich Hop-Along Airfield - 12VA Clifton Forge, VA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Nov 03, 2000
Subject: Re: Fuel Consumption Chart for O-360-A1A
In a message dated 11/3/00 7:18:36 PM Pacific Standard Time, clayfly(at)libertybay.com writes: << Does someone have a SIMPLE way to compute expected fuel consumption using cruise altitude, MAP and RPM? I'm just not getting there with my copy of the Lycoming Operator's Manual. I don't want to spend countless hours boring holes in the sky at various altitudes and power settings to establish the numbers and I don't have a fuel flow meter onboard. >> This method is close enough and I have verified it using the VM flow meter over the previous 370 hrs. At cruise settings when proper leaned (50- 75 deg F rich of peak), regardless of altitude, take the manifold pressure in inHg and add it to the two most significant digits of the rpm. Then refer to the following: 48 = 75% power = 10.5 gph 47 = 72% power = 10.0 gph 46 = 68% power = 9.5 gph 45 = 65% power = 9.0 gph 44 = 62% power = 8.5 gph 43 = 58% power = 8.0 gph 42 = 55% power = 7.5 gph I have a label stuck to my VM display that shows this info and the actual is always within 0.2 gph. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Mack" <don(at)dmack.net>
Subject: Stephen Frey RV-6/6A jig for sale
Date: Nov 03, 2000
I have a Stephen Frey metal RV6/6A fuselage jig, with birdcage option, available for sale. See my web site www.dmack.net or http://home.ici.net/~eloveday/fuselagejig.html for pictures of the jig. It has only been used on my plane and other than being dusty is in excellent shape. Cost new was $1550, willing to sell it for $1100. Today, new jigs go for $1950 (see http://home.ici.net/~eloveday/prices.html ). I am based in Chicago area. If interested, please contact me off list at don(at)dmack.net Don Mack ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Manual Aileron Trim Restoring Force
Date: Nov 03, 2000
My 6A now flies true with a 7 inch long 3/16 thick taper wedge duct taped to the aileron bottom trailing edge so I am ready to hook up trim. I just installed the manual aileron trim springs and the restoring force seems overly aggressive. I dutifully followed Van's instructions re stick hard over to the left and trim arm 70 degrees right to ensure proper spring bias. That sure results in stretched out springs! When I tweak the sticks they rebound instantly to center. I tried to measure the restoring force with my fish scale (used for the nose wheel break away force calibration) and it is well less than a pound. Nonetheless, it seems to be of the same order of magnitude as the force required to initiate a roll when I'm flying. To those with manual trim: Did you note any change in roll feel with the trim installed? Thanks. Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 3.7 hours Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2000
From: Randy Simpson <airtime(at)proaxis.com>
Subject: A question, and an offer for my past Ti-down customers
RV-Listers, if you have no interest in Ti-down talk, please delete now, and pardon my semispamlike intrusion. There are over 200 RV listers using my Titanium Ti-downs, and this is by far the largest "group" of people using them. I hope all who are using them are enjoying them. I have a question for you guys and gals. Do any of you ever use the little scotchbrite cleanup pad I provide with the Ti-downs? I personally don't use one, as I just wipe any dirt off them as they come out of the ground, and don't worry about them gleaming or anything. It's silly to keep providing the pad if nobody uses it. Please let me know off list (airtime(at)proaxis.com) if you have an opinion on this matter, thanks. My cost for the Titanium I use making the Ti-downs is significant. The current price for 5/16" 6/4 Ti rod is $29.15/lb. It takes almost a pound and a half of Titanium to make a set, so alot of my potential profit goes to the Titanium supplier. I've just come across a good deal thru my workplace to get some 5/16" Titanium rod in coil form, for a really good price. My hotlathe can only use straight barstock for making the screw part, so I'll be making a coil straightner. I'm gonna be getting approx. 1500 lbs of that material (enough to make 1000+ sets) on Monday, November 6. Here's a pic of 918 lbs of it... http://www.airtimemfg.com/Images/ti-coils.jpg Even with a "good deal" on the Ti material, 1500 lbs. is still alot of $$$, and I'm kinda strapped for that much cash at the moment, so.... The offer I'm refering to in the subject line above is this: I have about 25 five coil sets (#5165-3)or kits (#5165-3K) made at the present time, and will sell them for an additional $10 off the already discounted RV-List price to my past customers, while they last. I know you past customers don't need another set or kit, but I'm sure you've impressed some of your flying buddies with them, and there may be some of them that would like some too. You could pass the savings on to your buds, or keep the $10 for your effort. They would also make a great Christmas present *groan, not THAT time already* #5165-3 "set"=$50 for past customers. #5165-3K "kit"=$60 for past customers. And I pay for the shipping, to US customers. This is the cheapest I've offered the Ti-downs for, and won't offer them that cheap again, once these 25 sets are gone. I have seven different colors of bags available for the kits now. You can see them here: http://www.airtimemfg.com/Images/5coilbags.jpg (black, charcoal grey, silver grey, navy blue, electric blue, maroon, and fuchsia). For comparison, you can see what another company has come up with for the purpose of tying down airplanes here: http://www.flyties.com Their price for all those pieces is $119.95 + $12.50(shipping). I think my Ti-downs are much better (you don't need to carry along a heavy hammer), and are half the price of those flyties. I recently (almost a month ago) ran an ad in the Kitplanes online magazine for my Titanium Ti-downs, and haven't recieved even one response from that. Kitplanes boasts 1.5 million website hits a month, but I'm wondering where they came up with that number *grin* Once I get that Titanium coil material and my straightner built, I'll be busy as a bee this winter, getting as many sets made as possible for the flying season next spring/summer. I'll probably start running magazine ads and hitting some of the bigger fly-ins, marketing them that way. This RV-list has defiantely been the best source for sales for me. Thank you. Sincerely, Randy Simpson Airtime Mfg. http://www.airtimemfg.com Carrera Ultralight flier RV flier wannabe p.s. I'm still looking forward to my first "RV Grin" sometime in the near future *wink wink* Anybody in the Willamette Valley able to give me (and my new wife) some RV inspiration? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: What size alternator to use?
>From: "Sid Lloyd" <glastar1(at)swbell.net> > >I want to use one of the B & C Specialty Products lightweight alternators and >their regulators. They offer both a 60 and a 40 amp version. How do you >know which one to get? Do you add up your planned electrical load and >figure it out that way? > >Thanks, > >Sid You need to accomplish what is called a "load analysis" for the various phases of flight. Some folks do it on a spread sheet and enter continuous running load (transmit doesn't count, lowing landing gear generally doesn't count, only add up loads that are on for duration of the flight phase). Main Bus Loads =========================================================================== ========== Pre- Taxi Climb VFR IFR Decent Taxi Alt Flt Cruise Cruise Out Battery contactor 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Engine Gages 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Strobe Lts 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Nav Lts Fuel Pump Landing Lt 7.5 Taxi Lt 4.5 Pitot Heat 5.0 Main Bus Totals Essential Bus Loads =========================================================================== ========== Pre- Taxi Climb VFR IFR Decent Taxi Alt Flt Cruise Cruise Out Com 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 GPS 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 T/C 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Transponder/Encoder 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 Map Lt/Pnl Flood 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 E-Bus Totals 1.25 The list above is not intended to be all inclusive nor are the figures entered intended to be representative of your airplane . . . you need to do the homework and get all the data approprate to the equipment you plan to use. You might also include a column headed NITE VFR . . . After all the continuous loads are added up, total loads for E-Bus and Main bus should not be so great in any class of operation such that it doesn't leave 10A or so to recharge your battery. The FAA uses a rule-of-thumb on the order of 20 percent of alternator output should be reserved for battery charging. A better rule is to figure out how much snort it takes to completely recharge your battery in 1 hour of flight. If you have an 18 a.h. battery, then you need 18A of extra output over and above your max continuous running loads. If you make it an operating rule for your airplane that you will NEVER depart into potentially stressful flight conditions unless the battery is fully charged, then you don't need to meet the 1 hour "rule" . . . If on hopefully very rare occasions that you find your ship's battery totally dead, you make sure the battery is mostly recharged before launching into the blue then you can sensibly mitigate your alternator requriements. The classic rules of thumb observed by certified aircraft designers originat from the padded cockpit environment where the pilot is assumed to know nothing about how the system was architectured or how it operates. You are all encouraged to understand what's happening, why, and be able to operate comfortably with it based on purposeful decision making. I'm not sure the chart above will pass through all of the various lists with the columns intact so I've dumped this e-mail to a .pdf file which you may doanload at http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/loadanal.pdf Bob . . . Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different from ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 2000
From: John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Subject: Copy of "18 Years of the RV-Ator" for sale
The title says it all. I bought one...a couple of months later, couldn't find it, so I bought another one...then found the first one under a car seat, I'd taken it on vacation to read...sheesh...anyway, I don't need two of 'em! The first person to contact me at jwlawson(at)hargray.com who says they'll pay $15 for it (shipping included) gets it. John RV-6 (waiting on trim tab parts) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)peoplepc.com>
Subject: -8A Rear Seat Rudder Kit
Date: Nov 04, 2000
Hi all... I just got the rear seat rudder pedal kit for my -8A, and it is quite different than for the -8... I was under the impression they were similar, if not the same... I have published a couple pictures on EGroups: http://www.egroups.com/files/rv8list/-8A+Rear+Seat+Rudder+Pedals/ Later... Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage http://vondane.com/rv8a/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Extracting stubborn screw
Date: Nov 04, 2000
I need to remove the tank on my wing after trial fitting it, and one of the #8 screws refuses to budge. I've managed to mangle the head by now. Drill it out? Other ideas? Steve Johnson RV-8 #80121 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 2000
From: John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Subject: De-burring nose ribs
Someone recently asked for suggestions on deburring parts where there's not a lot of room to maneuver a deburring tool or file (such as wing nose ribs and tank ribs). Try this: cut a piece of fine-grit emery cloth into narrow strips, put the part to be deburred in a vise, and use the emery cloth as though you were flossing your teeth (mandatory disclaimer, necessary in today's litigious society - do NOT use emery cloth to floss your teeth!!!! It would be VERY hard on the enamel, to say the least). A light touch with the cloth will do OK, as even the fine grade of emery cloth (at least, the finest I could find) is still kinda gritty. John RV-6 (waiting on trim tab parts) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Subject: De-burring nose ribs
Date: Nov 04, 2000
Thanks for the tip and all the other tips I received on this subject. I was using emery cloth on a few select parts before. The inspector told me that I shouldn't do it though due to the metal content in the emery cloth. Does this make sense? Sine that, I have been using regulat sand paper. Are RV-8 - Wings -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Lawson Sent: November 4, 2000 1:26 PM Subject: RV-List: De-burring nose ribs Someone recently asked for suggestions on deburring parts where there's not a lot of room to maneuver a deburring tool or file (such as wing nose ribs and tank ribs). Try this: cut a piece of fine-grit emery cloth into narrow strips, put the part to be deburred in a vise, and use the emery cloth as though you were flossing your teeth (mandatory disclaimer, necessary in today's litigious society - do NOT use emery cloth to floss your teeth!!!! It would be VERY hard on the enamel, to say the least). A light touch with the cloth will do OK, as even the fine grade of emery cloth (at least, the finest I could find) is still kinda gritty. John RV-6 (waiting on trim tab parts) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 2000
From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: Manual Aileron Trim Restoring Force
Hi Dennis, The difference in the feel in roll isn't noticable at all. I wish I had put the roll trim in for the first flight instead of having to hold aileron in it until I was able to get it squeezed. Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 125 hrs Simi Valley, SoCal I dutifully followed Van's instructions re stick hard over to the left and trim arm 70 degrees right to ensure proper spring bias. That sure results in stretched out springs! When I tweak the sticks they rebound instantly to center. I tried to measure the restoring force with my fish scale (used for the nose wheel break away force calibration) and it is well less than a pound. Nonetheless, it seems to be of the same order of magnitude as the force required to initiate a roll when I'm flying. To those with manual trim: Did you note any change in roll feel with the trim installed? Thanks. Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 3.7 hours Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: De-burring nose ribs
Date: Nov 04, 2000
Real "Emery" paper or cloth is hard to find. Its abrasive is hard carbon particles. Other abrasives are Aluminum Oxide (tan) and Silicon Carbide (black). There are a couple other papers, ordinary sand which is very poor and garnet which works well on wood but not on metal. The other really fine paper is crocus cloth which is iron oxide. There was a discussion about which was the proper ScotchBite to use as one had Aluminum oxide and the other silicon carbide. I don't remember (C.R.A.F.T.) which was the preferred abrasive. I do know that Steel wool does contaminate the aluminum and should not be used. Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2000 11:35 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: De-burring nose ribs > > Thanks for the tip and all the other tips I received on this subject. > > I was using emery cloth on a few select parts before. The inspector told me > that I shouldn't do it though due to the metal content in the emery cloth. > Does this make sense? > > Sine that, I have been using regulat sand paper. > > Are > RV-8 - Wings > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Lawson > Sent: November 4, 2000 1:26 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: De-burring nose ribs > > > Someone recently asked for suggestions on deburring parts where there's not > a lot of room to maneuver a deburring tool or file > (such as wing nose ribs and tank ribs). Try this: cut a piece of fine-grit > emery cloth into narrow strips, put the part to be > deburred in a vise, and use the emery cloth as though you were flossing your > teeth (mandatory disclaimer, necessary in today's > litigious society - do NOT use emery cloth to floss your teeth!!!! It would > be VERY hard on the enamel, to say the least). A light > touch with the cloth will do OK, as even the fine grade of emery cloth (at > least, the finest I could find) is still kinda gritty. > > John > RV-6 (waiting on trim tab parts) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 2000
From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: Ti Tiedowns
Listers, Randy has a great product at a great price here. If you haven't held them in your hand, you don't know just how cool these things are. They are so light you'll be amazed. I love showing them off and I keep them in the RV all the time. It's by FAR the best tiedown I've seen and used. Even if your not ready to fly, take Randy up on his offer and get yourself a set for as a stocking stuffer. Just my opinion (and I don't have any interest in Randy's business). Randy, congratulations on getting married! And don't bother with the Scotchbright pad.... Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 120 hrs (Ti down equiped) O-360, Sensenich (83) Simi Valley, SoCal From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Fri, Nov 3, 2000 10:30 PM Subject: RV-List: A question, and an offer for my past Ti-down customers snip The offer I'm refering to in the subject line above is this: I have about 25 five coil sets (#5165-3)or kits (#5165-3K) made at the present time, and will sell them for an additional $10 off the already discounted RV-List price to my past customers, while they last. I know you past customers don't need another set or kit, but I'm sure you've impressed some of your flying buddies with them, and there may be some of them that would like some too. You could pass the savings on to your buds, or keep the $10 for your effort. They would also make a great Christmas present *groan, not THAT time already* #5165-3 "set"=$50 for past customers. #5165-3K "kit"=$60 for past customers. And I pay for the shipping, to US customers. This is the cheapest I've offered the Ti-downs for, and won't offer them that cheap again, once these 25 sets are gone. snip This RV-list has defiantely been the best source for sales for me. Thank you. Sincerely, Randy Simpson Airtime Mfg. http://www.airtimemfg.com Carrera Ultralight flier RV flier wannabe p.s. I'm still looking forward to my first "RV Grin" sometime in the near future *wink wink* Anybody in the Willamette Valley able to give me (and my new wife) some RV inspiration? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Extracting stubborn screw
Date: Nov 04, 2000
Steve: What you need is a screw extractor, available at most tool suppliers, e.g., SnapOn, etc. You drill a small pilot hole, then insert what looks like a fat screw with left-hand thread so that as you screw it in, it backs out the original screw. Comes in various sizes. Pat Hatch RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hrs. TT O-320, Hartzell C/S RV-6, Fuselage pat_hatch(at)msn.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2000 11:43 AM Subject: RV-List: Extracting stubborn screw > > I need to remove the tank on my wing after trial fitting it, and one of the > #8 screws refuses to budge. I've managed to mangle the head by now. Drill > it out? Other ideas? > > Steve Johnson > RV-8 #80121 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM
Date: Nov 04, 2000
Subject: RV4 Cowl
I am trying to install the polyester cowl on my -4. With the air frame level, and the front of the cowl clamped to the rear spinner bulkhead (with 1/4" spacer) and the inside top of the front inlets level, the rear of the cowl, where the cheek extensions connect, the left side is almost 1- 3/4 inches higher than the right. If I level the rear of the cowl so the cheek extensions are the same height from the top longeron, the the front inlets are out of whack, again by about 1-3/4 inches. Has any one else had this problem? or, as per usual am I missing something? 'preciate any advise, Warren Moore HB, Ca. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2000
From: David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: To shim or not to shim, that is the question.
Jim: If the science is the same for a 4, by shimming the hinges, if anything your cowl will fit with a little edge up to the fuselage. This will allow the use of body filler to really true up the edge and not to have to cut into the fiberglass of the cowl. It just allows some room for adjustment and more filler. You will want to cover those rivets with something! Dave Aronson Just getting to this with my RV4 Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote: > > > Doing that whole proseal, attach hinges, cowl thing this weekend and I > notice that the shims called out to shim the cowl hinges that attach to the > firewall are not really needed in most places. The fit is flat without the > shims. Am I missing something here? By not attaching the shims am I > setting myself up for heartache later after I have it all sealed and > riveted??? > > What say ye experienced RV-8(A) cowl fasteners. > > Thx, > > Jim Andrews > RV-8A ( sanding and more sanding ) > O-360 Sensenich 85 > N89JA reserved > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 2000
From: joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Consumption Chart for O-360-A1A
--- Vanremog(at)AOL.COM wrote: > Good question, does anyone have some suggestions for prop settings along with the MP nr's. I generally set mine at 2400 enroute. > In a message dated 11/3/00 7:18:36 PM Pacific > Standard Time, > clayfly(at)libertybay.com writes: > > << Does someone have a SIMPLE way to compute > expected fuel consumption using > cruise altitude, MAP and RPM? I'm just not getting > there with my copy of the > Lycoming Operator's Manual. I don't want to spend > countless hours boring > holes in the sky at various altitudes and power > settings to establish the > numbers and I don't have a fuel flow meter onboard. > >> > > This method is close enough and I have verified it > using the VM flow meter > over the previous 370 hrs. At cruise settings when > proper leaned (50- 75 deg > F rich of peak), regardless of altitude, take the > manifold pressure in inHg > and add it to the two most significant digits of the > rpm. Then refer to the > following: > > 48 = 75% power = 10.5 gph > 47 = 72% power = 10.0 gph > 46 = 68% power = 9.5 gph > 45 = 65% power = 9.0 gph > 44 = 62% power = 8.5 gph > 43 = 58% power = 8.0 gph > 42 = 55% power = 7.5 gph > > I have a label stuck to my VM display that shows > this info and the actual is > always within 0.2 gph. > > > -GV (RV-6A N1GV) > vanremog(at)aol.com > > > > support the > Lists > moment to > > through > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > Matronics! > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 2000
From: Robin Keller <rwkeller(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Builders Seminars
Having almost succumbed to the lure of building my own airplane, I'm curious about how many of you attended a builders seminar before you started on your building adventure. I consider myself reasonably. I rebuilt an English sports car in my youth - no mean feat - and had less than a full coffee can of "spare" parts when I was finished. Watching the e-mail on this list server has been terrific. But I do wonder if I have the knowledge to pull this off without a little education at the beginning. There are a number of seminars advertised on the Van's site. Has anyone had any recent experience they would like to share? robin keller Cherokee N7324W and RV-6 hopeful ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Re: slosh
Date: Nov 04, 2000
Hi Dave: I sloshed my tanks on the RV 6 when I built them , first flight May 1992. My only reason for sloshing was to have a bit of added protection for leaks and had no reason to be concerned about it as we had used it before in other aircraft without any trouble. I felt that the tanks were as clean as possible having Alumapreped them prior to pro-sealing and riveting. However a couple of years later started picking up small pieces in the gascolater. Then looking a bit closer through the the filler openings could see that a lot of it was coming loose, the only two choices now was to build a new set of tanks or cut inspection holes in the back baffle and clean it out. Decided to clean them out, required a week at five to six hours a day. Had I known what I know now about the reliability of pro-seal properly used I would never have considered using slosh and will never use it again. I believe the Randolph slosh is a good product but how can one be sure that the tanks are clean enough after working in them during riveting. I would be interested in knowing how your chap cleaned his tanks prior to sloshing. In my situation there were large pieces coming loose like an inch square that would have completely blocked the fuel pick-up's. I believe a small leak especially in the rear baffle could be taken care of by cleaning and adding more pro-seal. Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. -----Original Message----- From: dave ford <dford(at)michweb.net> Date: Monday, October 30, 2000 5:09 PM Subject: slosh What kind of slosh problem did you have with your tanks? I used slosh on my first tank because I had a leak at the rear baffle. As a first time new builder the first thing I did was to contact the guy who has a service of building tanks for people and he said he uses slosh when he builds tanks. I then didn't hesitate to check into the Randolph 912 which they say is better than the original yellow slosh--will hold up to the gasolines that the previous slosh did not. After using the slosh I start hearing stories about slosh peeling from tanks--now I'm concerned. Some say don't worry about it, or cut access holes and clean out every bit of slosh, or just put an in-line filter between that tank and the gascolator. Looking for suggestions and reassurances. Dave Ford RV6 fuselage O360 C\S By the way I'd like more information about equipping my plane for floats in the future. Thanks. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JusCash(at)AOL.COM
Date: Nov 04, 2000
Subject: Re: RV4 Cowl
In a message dated 11/4/00 12:09:12 PM Pacific Standard Time, MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM writes: << I am trying to install the polyester cowl on my -4. With the air frame level, and the front of the cowl clamped to the rear spinner bulkhead (with 1/4" spacer) and the inside top of the front inlets level, the rear of the cowl, where the cheek extensions connect, the left side is almost 1- 3/4 inches higher than the right. If I level the rear of the cowl so the cheek extensions are the same height from the top longeron, the the front inlets are out of whack, again by about 1-3/4 inches. Has any one else had this problem? or, as per usual am I missing something? 'preciate any advise, Warren Moore HB, Ca. >> Warren, Sounds like your cowl is twisted. Try clamping, cargo straps and anything else you can think of to hold the cowl in the proper position. Carefully use a heat gun to relieve the twist. Then drill and cleco it in place so that it will take a set. I did this after I left my cowl stored improperly and picked up a twist. It is mounted now and fit's fine. Cash Copeland QB #60075 RV6 N46FC (Reserved) Oakland, Ca ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 2000
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Builders Seminars
Robin I volunteered to help a local RV-4 builder for several months before deciding that I could do this. I would go over to Jody's house 2-3 nights a week and help him work on his fuselage. I learned a lot from him (I still learn a lot from him) while helping him. I would recommend this approach if you have a willing local builder. Charlie Kuss > > Having almost succumbed to the lure of building my own airplane, I'm > curious about how many of you attended a builders seminar before you > started on your building adventure. > > I consider myself reasonably. I rebuilt an English sports car in my > youth - no mean feat - and had less than a full coffee can of "spare" > parts when I was finished. Watching the e-mail on this list server has > been terrific. But I do wonder if I have the knowledge to pull this off > without a little education at the beginning. > > There are a number of seminars advertised on the Van's site. Has anyone > had any recent experience they would like to share? > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: Builders Seminars
> >Having almost succumbed to the lure of building my own airplane, I'm >curious about how many of you attended a builders seminar before you >started on your building adventure. > >I consider myself reasonably. I rebuilt an English sports car in my >youth - no mean feat - and had less than a full coffee can of "spare" >parts when I was finished. Watching the e-mail on this list server has >been terrific. But I do wonder if I have the knowledge to pull this off >without a little education at the beginning. > >There are a number of seminars advertised on the Van's site. Has anyone >had any recent experience they would like to share? > >robin keller >Cherokee N7324W and RV-6 hopeful > A builder's seminar may help you get on top of the learning curve a bit quicker, but that money could be spent on a pneumatic squeezer, or other odds and ends too. I spent an hour with another builder practicing riveting on scrap, watched George Orndorff's Sheet Metal Tools video, and his RV6/8 Prepunched Empennage video before I started construction. I made a few minor mistakes, but I bet I would have made almost as many even if I had taken a builder's seminar. The guy who inspected my wing and tail (we need official inspections in Canada) was very happy with the quality of my work. So, from my perspective, if you can spend some time with a local builder, a builder's seminar is not required, unless you need a confidence builder. If you rebuilt a sports car, and it actually ran, you have enough confidence to do this. The skills are not difficult, you just need to practice a bit on scrap before attacking the real thing. You also have to accept that you will trash a few parts. Fortunately none of the parts in the tail kit are very expensive. George Orndorff's videos can be bought direct from George, or from the other big RV suppliers. Web addresses, etc are in the Yeller Pages: http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm Go for it. Just my two cents worth, I'm sure others will disagree. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done) Ottawa, Canada http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RGray67968(at)AOL.COM
Date: Nov 04, 2000
Subject: rudder tail/strobe light
Howdy, Any tips on installing the whelen tail/strobe light in the fiberglass fairing would be appreciated. I saw (archives) where one builder glassed in a piece of 1/8" aluminum to fit the light. I guess I just "hack" off the bottom corner of my gorgeous rudder and go to town. Not much on the top of the pre fabbed light fairing to tie into the rudder.........pro seal and pops?? Thanks in advance. Please archive. Rick Gray (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 2000
From: bcbraem(at)home.com
Subject: Re: rudder tail/strobe light
Mix some T-88 structural epoxy with microglass spheres and build up a shelf inside the fiberglass hole where the tail light will go. Once dried/cured the T-88 will take a threaded tap or use a self-tapping screw(s). If you want extra insurance, the T-88 will also hold an aluminum "doubler" in place to strengthen the fiberglass rim. Boyd N600SS SW FL > > > Howdy, > Any tips on installing the whelen tail/strobe light in the fiberglass fairing > would be appreciated. I saw (archives) where one builder glassed in a piece > of 1/8" aluminum to fit the light. I guess I just "hack" off the bottom > corner of my gorgeous rudder and go to town. Not much on the top of the pre > fabbed light fairing to tie into the rudder.........pro seal and pops?? > Thanks in advance. > Please archive. > Rick Gray (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kcskiflyer" <klwski1(at)pouch.com>
Subject: Re: Fiberglass tips
Date: Nov 04, 2000
Randy Thanks for the tip, as you see many rv'ers suggested what I should do (thanks) and I went with the nut plate idea and no filler. What I did was take some scrap aluminum from the vertical stabilizer that I had to replace (another story in its self) and made 1 inch strips the length of each fiberglass tip and, drilled, and debured, and clecoed, and primed, and glued (a nice epoxy) them to each tip, nut plates went on next and I now have perfect looking fiberglass tips that I can remove for inspections, and they do look very professional , the only thing that worries me is how offten can I remove the screw that goes into the nut plate, and do I realy have to take the emp tips off for each inspection, what I've goten myself into is if the tips were riveted then I would not be able to remove them, so what I'm asking is should the tips ever be removed? Thanks Ken RV-9A emp,wings dec 10 lyc 0-290-d 0smh Long Island NY ----- Original Message ----- From: Randy J. Pflanzer <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 7:00 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass tips > > Ken, > > Two points on adding the fiberglass tips. I would screw them on with the > small #4 screws and nutplates rather than pop rivets and bondo. No so much > because of the weight, but the screws look more professional IMHO and will > look nicer longer. Also, the bondo will eventually crack along the joint > line and you will get a small line anyway. At this crack, the paint and > bondo can chip off. Also, the screws and nutplates are actually easier and > take less time to do. I pop riveted mine on and I wish I hadn't. > > Second, if you want to close the gap, do the following. Mount all the > screws and nutplates. Lay ONE layer of duct tape over the aluminum making > sure to go over the edge and around the backside slightly. Mount the tip > and screw it down. Cover the screws. Force bondo/filler material of your > choice in the crack. Once hardened, sand with 80 grit sandpaper down to the > duct tape. Use care to not go through the tape but sand the surface down as > far as you can. Then remove the tip and tape. Finish sand the part and > slightly round the edge. I use 240 grit wet/dry. That should give you a > nice straight and even edge along the entire joint line. > > Randy Pflanzer N417G > RV-6 Indianapolis (93 hours) > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: kcskiflyer <klwski1(at)pouch.com> > To: > Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2000 8:53 PM > Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass tips > > > > > > I'm going to finnish the fiberglass on my RV-9A emp this weekend and was > > wondering how I should close up the gap between the glass and the > aluminum, > > should I glass it, "bondo" it, or what? The fairings will not have to come > > off ( no lights or antenni) whats the best looking way to do this. I've > > painted many cars and several boats all with some body work involved so > I'm > > not afraid to make the whole thing smooth. I don't want to make it heavey > > and slow and I wan't some of that RV speed out of this machine, any > > sugestions would help. > > > > Thanks > > Ken > > RV-9A > > emp, wings Dec 10th > > Lyc 0-290-D 0SMOH > > Long Island NY > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Consumption Chart for O-360-A1A
Date: Nov 04, 2000
I was under the impression that the O360A1A was to be leaned according to the Lyc manual which is not as you say. Leaning to rich of peak at higher altitudes wastes fuel and cokes up engine doesn't it? Hal Kempthorne RV6a N7HK with new O360A1A Waiting for FAA inspection. ----- Original Message ----- From: <Vanremog(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 8:07 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Consumption Chart for O-360-A1A > > In a message dated 11/3/00 7:18:36 PM Pacific Standard Time, > clayfly(at)libertybay.com writes: > > << Does someone have a SIMPLE way to compute expected fuel consumption using > cruise altitude, MAP and RPM? I'm just not getting there with my copy of the > Lycoming Operator's Manual. I don't want to spend countless hours boring > holes in the sky at various altitudes and power settings to establish the > numbers and I don't have a fuel flow meter onboard. >> > > This method is close enough and I have verified it using the VM flow meter > over the previous 370 hrs. At cruise settings when proper leaned (50- 75 deg > F rich of peak), regardless of altitude, take the manifold pressure in inHg > and add it to the two most significant digits of the rpm. Then refer to the > following: > > 48 = 75% power = 10.5 gph > 47 = 72% power = 10.0 gph > 46 = 68% power = 9.5 gph > 45 = 65% power = 9.0 gph > 44 = 62% power = 8.5 gph > 43 = 58% power = 8.0 gph > 42 = 55% power = 7.5 gph > > I have a label stuck to my VM display that shows this info and the actual is > always within 0.2 gph. > > > -GV (RV-6A N1GV) > vanremog(at)aol.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "The Stribling's" <bbattery(at)bendcable.com>
Subject: 320 exhaust
Date: Nov 04, 2000
I am building the exhaust for a 160 hp 320 lycoming for 6a. If I make a muffler that will fit between back of starter, to oil sump will that interfere with anything going there in the future, I am trying to make it as quite as possible Ken 6-A Engine work and FWF ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Flight Test Program
Date: Nov 04, 2000
Hi Clay, I'm waiting for inspection and beginning to realize that I am going to fly this work of mine. I'd like tthe help I'm sure your plan will be! Hal Kempthorne RV6a N7HK waiting inspector ----- Original Message ----- 0.83) with SMTP id ;Wed <B0005204863@mail-2.lbay.net>; <23 Aug 2000 07:17:52.-0700(at)matronics.com> Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2000 6:22 AM Subject: RV-List: Flight Test Program > > Hi Listers, > Seeing as how I'm going to likely have a 40 hour flight test time, I've created a rather > extensive flight test program which I created based on Advisory Circular: 90-89A and > chapter 15 of Van's builder instructions. If you would like have a copy in MS Word, just > drop me an e-mail and I'll send you a copy. > > I make no warranties, guaranties, or claim any expertise whatsoever. But it might be a good > starting point for you if you want to develop your own thorough test plan. I'm still making > changes to it --- but by and large it's what I plan to do with my 40 hours. > > Regards, > > Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, inspection soon > Indiana > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 2000
From: "Roy L. Glass and Mary L. Poteet" <rlglass(at)alaska.net>
Subject: Re: Extracting stubborn screw
Before you drill it out, try using a "T" handle screw driver. I got mine at Sears (Craftsman Grip Driver, it ratchets, too). You can put a lot of pressure on the screw and it may back out without any trouble. Roy Glass - Anchorage, AK RV-6, priming elevator contol tubes Stephen Johnson wrote: > > > I need to remove the tank on my wing after trial fitting it, and one of the > #8 screws refuses to budge. I've managed to mangle the head by now. Drill > it out? Other ideas? > > Steve Johnson > RV-8 #80121 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: De-burring nose ribs
Date: Nov 04, 2000
This is what I do, sometimes with the emery cloth rapped around a small file. Also use folded strips of 400 and 600 grit wet and dry sandpaper. Marty in Brentwood TN, RV6A Fuselage ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Lawson" <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2000 12:26 PM Subject: RV-List: De-burring nose ribs > > Someone recently asked for suggestions on deburring parts where there's not a lot of room to maneuver a deburring tool or file > (such as wing nose ribs and tank ribs). Try this: cut a piece of fine-grit emery cloth into narrow strips, put the part to be > deburred in a vise, and use the emery cloth as though you were flossing your teeth (mandatory disclaimer, necessary in today's > litigious society - do NOT use emery cloth to floss your teeth!!!! It would be VERY hard on the enamel, to say the least). A light > touch with the cloth will do OK, as even the fine grade of emery cloth (at least, the finest I could find) is still kinda gritty. > > John > RV-6 (waiting on trim tab parts) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcel Bourgon" <mbourgon(at)elp.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Builders Seminars
Date: Nov 04, 2000
Greetings from El Paso, Texas Currently building a RV-9A. Just completed the empennage and waiting for my wings now. Supposed to see them mid November. After I ordered tail and before we started building my friend and I went to Fort Worth and took the Orndorf week end building course. I also rebuilt a TR-6 and have a good idea of tools. Georges course is a good start and will put you in the right frame of mind for building your plane. Take you helper or wife and you will get a real good over view of what you will need to do when building. George also gave us a good list of tools we should buy and we have purchased most of them from Avery tools. A real good bunch to do business with. Would strongly recommend it. Besides my son lives in fort worth and gave me good chance to visit Marcel Bourgon in El Paso ----- Original Message ----- From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2000 2:53 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Builders Seminars > > > > >Having almost succumbed to the lure of building my own airplane, I'm > >curious about how many of you attended a builders seminar before you > >started on your building adventure. > > > >I consider myself reasonably. I rebuilt an English sports car in my > >youth - no mean feat - and had less than a full coffee can of "spare" > >parts when I was finished. Watching the e-mail on this list server has > >been terrific. But I do wonder if I have the knowledge to pull this off > >without a little education at the beginning. > > > >There are a number of seminars advertised on the Van's site. Has anyone > >had any recent experience they would like to share? > > > >robin keller > >Cherokee N7324W and RV-6 hopeful > > > > A builder's seminar may help you get on top of the learning curve a > bit quicker, but that money could be spent on a pneumatic squeezer, > or other odds and ends too. I spent an hour with another builder > practicing riveting on scrap, watched George Orndorff's Sheet Metal > Tools video, and his RV6/8 Prepunched Empennage video before I > started construction. I made a few minor mistakes, but I bet I would > have made almost as many even if I had taken a builder's seminar. > The guy who inspected my wing and tail (we need official inspections > in Canada) was very happy with the quality of my work. > > So, from my perspective, if you can spend some time with a local > builder, a builder's seminar is not required, unless you need a > confidence builder. If you rebuilt a sports car, and it actually > ran, you have enough confidence to do this. The skills are not > difficult, you just need to practice a bit on scrap before attacking > the real thing. You also have to accept that you will trash a few > parts. Fortunately none of the parts in the tail kit are very > expensive. > > George Orndorff's videos can be bought direct from George, or from > the other big RV suppliers. Web addresses, etc are in the Yeller > Pages: > > http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm > > Go for it. > > Just my two cents worth, I'm sure others will disagree. > > > -- > Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done) > Ottawa, Canada > http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "rvpilot" <rvpilot(at)coollink.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Consumption Chart for O-360-A1A
Date: Nov 04, 2000
Joe, You should run your engine at it's "sweet spot". Thats the RPM where it seems to be happiest (least vibration). Generally between 2400-2600. Bill, N48WD ----- Original Message ----- From: "joe wiza" <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2000 3:23 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Consumption Chart for O-360-A1A > > > --- Vanremog(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > > Good question, does anyone have some suggestions for > prop settings along with the MP nr's. I generally set > mine at 2400 enroute. > > > > In a message dated 11/3/00 7:18:36 PM Pacific > > Standard Time, > > clayfly(at)libertybay.com writes: > > > > << Does someone have a SIMPLE way to compute > > expected fuel consumption using > > cruise altitude, MAP and RPM? I'm just not getting > > there with my copy of the > > Lycoming Operator's Manual. I don't want to spend > > countless hours boring > > holes in the sky at various altitudes and power > > settings to establish the > > numbers and I don't have a fuel flow meter onboard. > > >> > > > > This method is close enough and I have verified it > > using the VM flow meter > > over the previous 370 hrs. At cruise settings when > > proper leaned (50- 75 deg > > F rich of peak), regardless of altitude, take the > > manifold pressure in inHg > > and add it to the two most significant digits of the > > rpm. Then refer to the > > following: > > > > 48 = 75% power = 10.5 gph > > 47 = 72% power = 10.0 gph > > 46 = 68% power = 9.5 gph > > 45 = 65% power = 9.0 gph > > 44 = 62% power = 8.5 gph > > 43 = 58% power = 8.0 gph > > 42 = 55% power = 7.5 gph > > > > I have a label stuck to my VM display that shows > > this info and the actual is > > always within 0.2 gph. > > > > > > -GV (RV-6A N1GV) > > vanremog(at)aol.com > > > > > > > > support the > > Lists > > moment to > > > > through > > > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > Matronics! > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net>
Subject: Re: Extracting stubborn screws
Date: Nov 04, 2000
Hello Stephen and Listers, In the future when you find a stubborn screw you might try the following: First off, try to resist the temptation to keep at it until the screw head takes on the appearance of a large rather nasty pop rivet from hell. Go to your local auto supply outlet and buy a small container of fine or medium grade valve grinding compound. If the screw slot in question has not yet been totally ruined apply some valve grinding compound to business end of the screw driver. Theory: The grinding compound embeds into the driving and driven surfaces adding enough bite to turn all but the most stubborn screws. In practice, it has worked for me. Pushing while turning the screw the driver with as much force as the sub-structure will allow will quite often save you from having to resort to more extreme measures, such as drilling off the screw head or screw extractors. As often as not drilling off the head will allow the part in question to be removed which then gives access to rethreading or replacing the offending fastener. The poor mans hammer driver: If the sub structure is very sturdy or can be properly supported a blow on the end of the screw driver while twisting the screw driver will often help get the desired result. Small screw extractors for small fasteners tend to require a careful deft touch. If or when they break you're in the position of having to drill off the screw head that has a piece of hardened material stuck in the center. Take it form me don't go there! Having been there and done that once too often my common approach is that screws are cheap, drill the stubborn ones out and the replacement goes in with Beolube or the thread lube of choice. I hope it works for you, Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: Stephen Johnson <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2000 8:43 AM Subject: RV-List: Extracting stubborn screw > > I need to remove the tank on my wing after trial fitting it, and one of the > #8 screws refuses to budge. I've managed to mangle the head by now. Drill > it out? Other ideas? > > Steve Johnson > RV-8 #80121 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "rvpilot" <rvpilot(at)coollink.net>
Subject: Re: Extracting stubborn screw
Date: Nov 04, 2000
Steve, One trick I have used in the past is to cut a slot in the screw head with a Dremel and cutting disk, then turn it out with a common screwdriver. This might be hard to do on a countersunk head without damaging the surrounding skin. Perhaps a well worn disk (small diameter) would work. Bill RV-8 N48WD ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2000 11:43 AM Subject: RV-List: Extracting stubborn screw > > I need to remove the tank on my wing after trial fitting it, and one of the > #8 screws refuses to budge. I've managed to mangle the head by now. Drill > it out? Other ideas? > > Steve Johnson > RV-8 #80121 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 2000
Subject: Re: rudder tail/strobe light
From: Wes Hays <whays(at)juno.com>
>Any tips on installing the whelen tail/strobe light in the fiberglass >fairing >would be appreciated. FWIW, I epoxied a couple of #4 single lug nutplates to the fiberglass. It is holding so far and seems to be a pretty secure attachment. Time will tell since I haven't even gotten off the ground yet! Wes Hays Rotan, TX RV6-A At the airport and final assembly. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 2000
Subject: Re: Extracting stubborn screw
From: Wes Hays <whays(at)juno.com>
A friend of mine told me he used left handed drill bits to extract the screws. He used 1/8" for the #8's and 3/32" for the #6's. He said that using the center of the phillips head kept the bit centered and once the bit started cuting and got far enough, it just unscrewed the rest of the screw. He did mention he used slow speed on the drill. I haven't tried it, but he said it worked fine. Wes Hays Rotan, TX RV6-A O-360 A1A/ c/s prop Final Assembly. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net>
Subject: Re: Fiberglass tips
Date: Nov 04, 2000
Hello Randy, Avery Tools sells Beolube. If you use it when installing the various screws that go into nutplates on the aircraft you will not likely have any problems with stripped threads or stuck screws. If after several uses the screws seem worn enough to replace them do so again using Beolube or the thread lube of your choice. The empennage can be inspected adequately from the root ends. The need to remove the empennage tips is minimal. The most likely cause for removal would be in case of damage. Superficial damage can be corrected without removal. More serious damage might require or involve straightening, filling, sanding etc., thereby making removable tips a moot point. The most common cracks that show up on riveted and filled tips show up at the joint between the aluminum and the fiberglass tip. My choice was to fill in the rivets and tips to improve the fits, then deliberately groove the joint between the two. This then will show the structure of the tip area and if cracks happen they will follow the existing groove. Hopefully the cracks will not then show very much. Time will tell. Keep on building, Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: kcskiflyer <klwski1(at)pouch.com> Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2000 3:31 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass tips > > Randy > > Thanks for the tip, as you see many rv'ers suggested what I should do > (thanks) and I went with the nut plate idea and no filler. What I did was > take some scrap aluminum from the vertical stabilizer that I had to replace > (another story in its self) and made 1 inch strips the length of each > fiberglass tip and, drilled, and debured, and clecoed, and primed, and glued > (a nice epoxy) them to each tip, nut plates went on next and I now have > perfect looking fiberglass tips that I can remove for inspections, and they > do look very professional , the only thing that worries me is how offten can > I remove the screw that goes into the nut plate, and do I realy have to take > the emp tips off for each inspection, what I've goten myself into is if the > tips were riveted then I would not be able to remove them, so what I'm > asking is should the tips ever be removed? > > Thanks > Ken > RV-9A > emp,wings dec 10 > lyc 0-290-d 0smh > Long Island NY > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Randy J. Pflanzer <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> > To: > Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 7:00 AM > Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass tips > > > > > > Ken, > > > > Two points on adding the fiberglass tips. I would screw them on with the > > small #4 screws and nutplates rather than pop rivets and bondo. No so > much > > because of the weight, but the screws look more professional IMHO and will > > look nicer longer. Also, the bondo will eventually crack along the joint > > line and you will get a small line anyway. At this crack, the paint and > > bondo can chip off. Also, the screws and nutplates are actually easier > and > > take less time to do. I pop riveted mine on and I wish I hadn't. > > > > Second, if you want to close the gap, do the following. Mount all the > > screws and nutplates. Lay ONE layer of duct tape over the aluminum making > > sure to go over the edge and around the backside slightly. Mount the tip > > and screw it down. Cover the screws. Force bondo/filler material of your > > choice in the crack. Once hardened, sand with 80 grit sandpaper down to > the > > duct tape. Use care to not go through the tape but sand the surface down > as > > far as you can. Then remove the tip and tape. Finish sand the part and > > slightly round the edge. I use 240 grit wet/dry. That should give you a > > nice straight and even edge along the entire joint line. > > > > Randy Pflanzer N417G > > RV-6 Indianapolis (93 hours) > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: kcskiflyer <klwski1(at)pouch.com> > > To: > > Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2000 8:53 PM > > Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass tips > > > > > > > > > > I'm going to finnish the fiberglass on my RV-9A emp this weekend and was > > > wondering how I should close up the gap between the glass and the > > aluminum, > > > should I glass it, "bondo" it, or what? The fairings will not have to > come > > > off ( no lights or antenni) whats the best looking way to do this. I've > > > painted many cars and several boats all with some body work involved so > > I'm > > > not afraid to make the whole thing smooth. I don't want to make it > heavey > > > and slow and I wan't some of that RV speed out of this machine, any > > > sugestions would help. > > > > > > Thanks > > > Ken > > > RV-9A > > > emp, wings Dec 10th > > > Lyc 0-290-D 0SMOH > > > Long Island NY > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 2000
From: RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: AeroElectric's New Order Policy
Bob, Please say it's not so! Credit Card Purchases Only? Over unsecured internet connection? No mail-in, telephone, or fax orders? This can't be happening . . . :( RE Miller 80153 Ready to oder all kinds of electrical stuff. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Extracting stubborn screw
Date: Nov 04, 2000
If you can find a left hand drill bit, they sometimes while drilling will back the screw out. Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roy L. Glass and Mary L. Poteet" <rlglass(at)alaska.net> Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2000 7:02 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Extracting stubborn screw > > Before you drill it out, try using a "T" handle screw driver. I got mine > at Sears (Craftsman Grip Driver, it ratchets, too). You can put a lot of > pressure on the screw and it may back out without any trouble. > > Roy Glass - Anchorage, AK RV-6, priming elevator contol tubes > > Stephen Johnson wrote: > > > > > > I need to remove the tank on my wing after trial fitting it, and one of the > > #8 screws refuses to budge. I've managed to mangle the head by now. Drill > > it out? Other ideas? > > > > Steve Johnson > > RV-8 #80121 > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: -8A Rear Seat Rudder Kit
Date: Nov 04, 2000
Bill, You are right. That is totally different than mine. When I ordered a set for my -8A I got same as all the -8. Actually, looking at yours, if I had got those I would not have been able to install the fuel gauge down low. Mike Robertson RV-8A N809RS IT FLYS!!!! >From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)peoplepc.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: , >Subject: RV-List: -8A Rear Seat Rudder Kit >Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2000 09:35:27 -0700 > > >Hi all... > >I just got the rear seat rudder pedal kit for my -8A, and it is quite >different than for the -8... I was under the impression they were similar, >if not the same... I have published a couple pictures on EGroups: > >http://www.egroups.com/files/rv8list/-8A+Rear+Seat+Rudder+Pedals/ > >Later... > >Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO >RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage >http://vondane.com/rv8a/ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: -8A Rear Seat Rudder Kit
Date: Nov 04, 2000
Bill, You are right. That is totally different than mine. When I ordered a set for my -8A I got same as all the -8. Actually, looking at yours, if I had got those I would not have been able to install the fuel gauge down low. Mike Robertson RV-8A N809RS IT FLYS!!!! >From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)peoplepc.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: , >Subject: RV-List: -8A Rear Seat Rudder Kit >Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2000 09:35:27 -0700 > > >Hi all... > >I just got the rear seat rudder pedal kit for my -8A, and it is quite >different than for the -8... I was under the impression they were similar, >if not the same... I have published a couple pictures on EGroups: > >http://www.egroups.com/files/rv8list/-8A+Rear+Seat+Rudder+Pedals/ > >Later... > >Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO >RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage >http://vondane.com/rv8a/ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Daniel Estrada F." <dani_estrada(at)infosel.net.mx>
Subject: Is it realy necessary...?
Date: Nov 04, 2000
Hello listers: I have a new questions: Is it really necessary to buy a "3m Scitch-Brit Deburring Wheel...? or Can I only use a "Speed Deburring&C'sinking Tool"...? the difference. The PRICE..!!! thanks Daniel Estrada Mxico City RV6A Empenage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: It Flys!!
Date: Nov 04, 2000
I am proud to announce that there now another Van's RV-8A to add to the finished and flown category. N809Rs took off from the Honolulu International Airport at 4:30 PM, Friday, November 3, 2000, for her first flight. On this first flight she trued out at 156Kts at 23 squared. She was so stable on her first flight that the pilot, a former competitive aerobatic gentleman, went ahead and looped and rolled her. Neither I nor my partner have any RV time and we got an offer from this gentleman, so we decided that discression being the better part of valor, we accepted his offer. She flew for 1.3 hours with 3 minor discrepancies. Both trims needed some adjustment and the oil temp was a bit on the high side. Max oil temp was 225 and settled down to 218 in cruise. Not unexpected, as we have the Positech oil cooler installed. All cylinder head and Temps and EGTs were in the green on the low side. All pressure were right on the money. So its time to get a Stuart Warner and replace it, me thinks. As the engine is a zero time we may fly it a little to make sure but go ahead and order a new one anyways. Gentleman, I don't care if I didn't get the first flight, the RV grin was still there. It is truely a wonderous sight to see something you have built takeoff for the first time whether you are in it or on the ground. But, of course, now I can look forward to the rest of the flying. Mike Robertson RV-8A N809RS What can I add, IT FLYs!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 2000
From: David & Betty Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net>
Subject: Re: -8A Rear Seat Rudder Kit
Congratulations Mike! How about telling us how the first (and subsequent) flights went? Mike Robertson wrote: > > Bill, > You are right. That is totally different than mine. When I ordered a set > for my -8A I got same as all the -8. Actually, looking at yours, if I had > got those I would not have been able to install the fuel gauge down low. > > Mike Robertson > RV-8A N809RS > IT FLYS!!!! > > >From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)peoplepc.com> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >To: , > >Subject: RV-List: -8A Rear Seat Rudder Kit > >Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2000 09:35:27 -0700 > > > > > >Hi all... > > > >I just got the rear seat rudder pedal kit for my -8A, and it is quite > >different than for the -8... I was under the impression they were similar, > >if not the same... I have published a couple pictures on EGroups: > > > >http://www.egroups.com/files/rv8list/-8A+Rear+Seat+Rudder+Pedals/ > > > >Later... > > > >Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO > >RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage > >http://vondane.com/rv8a/ > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvator97(at)AOL.COM
Date: Nov 04, 2000
Subject: Re: Is it realy necessary...?
In a message dated 11/4/00 7:23:19 PM Pacific Standard Time, dani_estrada(at)infosel.net.mx writes: << Is it really necessary to buy a "3m Scitch-Brit Deburring Wheel...? or Can I only use a "Speed Deburring&C'sinking Tool"...? >> 1) YES! 2) Don't understand the question! BTW: Since you are obviously "into" the RV project... and prepared to invest $40,000 + to complete it.... why sweat the little stuff? The job will be SOOO much easier with the right tools. Get em all! Good luck, Walt RV-6A N79WH 375hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: Is it realy necessary...?
> > >Hello listers: > >I have a new questions: > >Is it really necessary to buy a "3m Scitch-Brit Deburring Wheel...? or >Can I only use a "Speed Deburring&C'sinking Tool"...? > >the difference. The PRICE..!!! > >thanks > > >Daniel Estrada >Mxico City >RV6A Empenage > Well, it probably isn't 100% essential, as you could build the plane without it. But it will save you a huge amount of time, so I would buy it. I use it for much more than just deburing the edges of skins. It gets used a lot for polishing the edges of pieces that you make from angle or other stock. You will make a lot of pieces, using a bandsaw, hacksaw, cutoff wheel, or whatever you use. Those cut edges need to be smoothed down, and the ScotchBrite wheel is by far the fastest way to do it. I suppose you could use a file, or sandpaper to do this, but it would take forever. ScotchBrite wheels come in a lot of different compositions. You want the one marked "CP-7AM". A big one mounted on a bench grinder will last the whole project, if you are careful not to wear too many deep grooves in it. There may be cheaper equivalents from other vendors, but I don't know about them. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done) Ottawa, Canada http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Extracting stubborn screw
Date: Nov 04, 2000
Kyle, That's just what I ended up doing. The original post did generate some insightful replies which should be generally helpful. Steve ----- Original Message ----- From: <KBoatri144(at)aol.com> Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2000 1:59 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Extracting stubborn screw > In a message dated 11/4/00 11:47:29 AM Eastern Standard Time, > spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com writes: > > > I need to remove the tank on my wing after trial fitting it, and one of the > > #8 screws refuses to budge. I've managed to mangle the head by now. Drill > > it out? Other ideas? > > > > Steve Johnson > > RV-8 #80121 > > Steve, > > I had one of those too. I drilled the head off of the screw, removed the > tank, then changed out the plate nut. > > Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA > RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: It Flys!!
Date: Nov 04, 2000
Congratulations on your new "baby". Hope all continues to go well! Marty in Brentwood TN ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2000 11:28 AM Subject: RV-List: It Flys!! > > I am proud to announce that there now another Van's RV-8A to add to the > finished and flown category. N809Rs took off from the Honolulu > International Airport at 4:30 PM, Friday, November 3, 2000, for her first > flight. > > On this first flight she trued out at 156Kts at 23 squared. She was so > stable on her first flight that the pilot, a former competitive aerobatic > gentleman, went ahead and looped and rolled her. Neither I nor my partner > have any RV time and we got an offer from this gentleman, so we decided that > discression being the better part of valor, we accepted his offer. > > She flew for 1.3 hours with 3 minor discrepancies. Both trims needed some > adjustment and the oil temp was a bit on the high side. Max oil temp was > 225 and settled down to 218 in cruise. Not unexpected, as we have the > Positech oil cooler installed. All cylinder head and Temps and EGTs were in > the green on the low side. All pressure were right on the money. So its > time to get a Stuart Warner and replace it, me thinks. As the engine is a > zero time we may fly it a little to make sure but go ahead and order a new > one anyways. > > Gentleman, I don't care if I didn't get the first flight, the RV grin was > still there. It is truely a wonderous sight to see something you have built > takeoff for the first time whether you are in it or on the ground. But, of > course, now I can look forward to the rest of the flying. > > Mike Robertson > RV-8A N809RS > What can I add, IT FLYs!!! > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Re: It Flys!!
Date: Nov 04, 2000
Mike, Congratulations!!!!!! We all are proud of you and share in your joy. Chuck ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 05, 2000
From: "Robert L.Nuckolls III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric's New Order Policy
> >Bob, > >Please say it's not so! > >Credit Card Purchases Only? > >Over unsecured internet connection? > >No mail-in, telephone, or fax orders? > >This can't be happening . . . :( "Secure" means more expense and adds no security for the #1 means for compromising credit card data. My computers are logged onto a cable-modem account 24 hours a day and without firewalls and dedicated usage of the bookkeeping machine to avoid trojan horses, I'd have several thousand good credit card numbers hanging out there in the breeze. I'm a one person operation with a daytime job and a wife who's time is better spent working on a PhD than on licking stamps and stuffing boxes. My choices are, streamline operations or shut 'em down. For the moment, I'm choosing to streamline. Looking for credit card numbers out on the net is like standing at the bottom of Niagra Falls with a teacup waiting to catch 10 molecules of red water that are going to come down sometime in the next ten minutes. Worries for "lack of a secure site" are as valid as the Y2K concerns of a few months back . . . it made a lot of scare-mongers a lot of money. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CW9371(at)AOL.COM
Date: Nov 05, 2000
Subject: Re: AeroElectric's New Order Policy
In a message dated 11/5/2000 12:12:40 AM Central Standard Time, nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com writes: << "Secure" means more expense and adds no security for the #1 means for compromising credit card data. My computers are logged onto a cable-modem account 24 hours a day and without firewalls and dedicated usage of the bookkeeping machine to avoid trojan horses, I'd have several thousand good credit card numbers hanging out there in the breeze. I'm a one person operation with a daytime job and a wife who's time is better spent working on a PhD than on licking stamps and stuffing boxes. My choices are, streamline operations or shut 'em down. For the moment, I'm choosing to streamline. >> Well, I hate to say this as I was going to start ordering from you in the spring when my F1 rocket was futher along, but if you running on a cable modem with no firewall, i am not going to ever place an order with you. I have a cable modem for our network , and insurance and investment firm. We have both a hardware firewall and software firewalls. We average 1-2 trojan horses attempting to come into the net work daily. We also average 10-25 other aunothorized accesses per day. We don't know what these are. Also we found out that alot of programs on our computers dial out to update when they want to. We didnt have a firewall. We were taken down by a virus in less then 2 weeks after we installed the cable modem to the LAN. Chris wilcox F1 rocket 000 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com>
Subject: Re: Builders Seminars
Date: Nov 04, 2000
Robin, I went to one of the Sportair ones for Van's aircraft. I had built up cars, maintained a 911S for 17 years, and maintained the Navy's aircraft for 10 years, however, no sheet metal experience! I feel it was worthwhile as I somehow managed to rivet the flap section with a quite obvious warp in it. I have since built the tail and wings without warps (RV8A). I would recommend one if you haven't done sheet metal work before. Bill Christie, Phoenix ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robin Keller" <rwkeller(at)pacbell.net> Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2000 1:49 PM Subject: RV-List: Builders Seminars > > Having almost succumbed to the lure of building my own airplane, I'm > curious about how many of you attended a builders seminar before you > started on your building adventure. > > I consider myself reasonably. I rebuilt an English sports car in my > youth - no mean feat - and had less than a full coffee can of "spare" > parts when I was finished. Watching the e-mail on this list server has > been terrific. But I do wonder if I have the knowledge to pull this off > without a little education at the beginning. > > There are a number of seminars advertised on the Van's site. Has anyone > had any recent experience they would like to share? > > robin keller > Cherokee N7324W and RV-6 hopeful > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 05, 2000
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Who Is Matt(e) Dralle?? (Part deax)
Well I have to assume that if you are reading this you have already made your contribution in support of the RV-List at : http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html Or by mail at: List Contribution c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 So read on........................... If you recall, Matt had just given his IC-A22's which he had invented to some guy at the airport who worked for ICOM, a fertilizer manufacturer, and went home to play with his new Commadore computer........... Well on the way home Matt got a ride from one of his friends....Matt has a LOT of friends, just ask JPI, so anyway he got this ride from a friend and before they reached Matt's house his friend ran out of gas. Well Matt, being the good friend he is, volunteered to get his friend some gas. So off he went to the nearest gas station. Upon arriving at the gas station Matt plunked down his last $3.85 that he had saved for some new software for his Commadore to buy a new gas can and 5 gallons of gas. (This was a long time ago in a galaxy far, far away when gas was cheap!) Yes even way back then Matt would put up his own money to help a friend and not expect a thing back for all that he did. Well this friend being the fine upstanding decent person that he was and also a nice guy too, gave Matt his $3.85 back and even threw in an extra $1.15 to make it an even $5.00. Matt was beside himself. He had learned a great lesson this day! IF YOU DO GOOD THINGS FOR GOOD PEOPLE, THEY WILL RESPOND IN A POSITIVE WAY! (Of course there is the occasional person who won't, but Matt doesn't know anyone like that.) Matt learned that he could bank on this lesson over the years. Good people can be counted on! So Matt took his $5.00 and bought some real high powered software for his brand new Commadore so he could do good things to help his FRIENDS THAT HE JUST KNEW HE COULD COUNT ON! (Not so subtle hint here......) With his most recent experiences at the ball game and the airport Matt knew what he had to do......so he took his new Commadore and software and started working out calculations on fuel flow so his friends wouldn't have to run out of gas any more. Matt deduced that if he could calculate the fuel burn of a given engine and when and how much fuel was added at any given time, one could calculate exactly when one would run out of gas. WOW................Matt really had something this time!!!! A useful instrument that would keep his friends (WHO HE JUST KNEW HE COULD COUNT ON) from running out of gas. Never again would Matt's friends be stranded in the middle of nowhere. So Matt developed his new fuel quantity tracking system. But what would he call it? Matt decided to call it the Fuel Supply Calculator And Nomograph. (Look it up, I burned up the Scrabble dictionary for that one!) So Matt took his new invention to his friends who promptly reminded him that there were times when running out of gas was exactly what they wanted to do and with Matt's Fuel Supply Calculator and Nomograph (FuelScan for short) they wouldn't have any excuses to tell their girl friends fathers when they ran out of gas. So once again dejected, Matt tried to give his FuelScan to one of his friends named J. P. I'mbigerthanyou who turned it down with a laugh and upturned nose. "Hmmmm... maybe all "friends" can't be counted on!", Matt thought. So Matt shelved the FuelScan for reconsideration and application latter on. (Matt is a very analytical kind of guy) Matt was at a point where he was desperate to invent something for all of his FRIENDS THAT HE COULD COUNT ON. Something that they would find very useful. Something that they would like and use and it would help them save money. Most of Matt's friends didn't have a lot of money and built many of the things that they had with their own two hands, just like Matt. Matt wasn't in the top 1% of wage earners who pay most of the taxes. He hadn't won lifes lottery yet but he sure was trying! So Matt went back to his Commadore computer for some more inspiration..... Okay, if you haven't contributed yet, how about being one of Matt's real friends and scroll back to the top of this message and get to it.............. To be continued.........................(Unfortunately!!) AL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric's New Order Policy
Date: Nov 04, 2000
I must have missed Mr. Nuckolls original posting as I'm afraid I cannot decipher his last posting. So is it true that he is only accepting credit card numbers over the net? If so, too bad, as I was going to order some stuff from him, but I will never give out my card number over cyberspace. Mike Robbins RV8Q instrument panel and wiring stuff Seattle area > > "Secure" means more expense and adds no security > for the #1 means for compromising credit card data. My > computers are logged onto a cable-modem account 24 hours > a day and without firewalls and dedicated usage of the bookkeeping > machine to avoid trojan horses, I'd have several thousand good > credit card numbers hanging out there in the breeze. I'm a > one person operation with a daytime job and a wife who's > time is better spent working on a PhD than on licking stamps > and stuffing boxes. My choices are, streamline operations > or shut 'em down. For the moment, I'm choosing to streamline. > > Looking for credit card numbers out on the net is like standing > at the bottom of Niagra Falls with a teacup waiting to catch > 10 molecules of red water that are going to come down sometime > in the next ten minutes. Worries for "lack of a secure site" are as > valid as the Y2K concerns of a few months back . . . it > made a lot of scare-mongers a lot of money. > > Bob . . . > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 05, 2000
From: Bruce Stewart <bruces(at)shoalhaven.net.au>
Subject: Re:Weekend
Hi All, theres not been much traffic so its time to fess up on whats going on! :-) OK who's done what and when? Here in the land of Oz I went to a place called Wedderburn (near Sydney) on Sunday and helped a friend install a GPS in his RV 4, it was also an open day for the NSW Sport Aircraft Club where the usual stuff went on, it was interesting to see the line up of aircraft however I can't help feeling a little out of place as the average age of people attending seemed to be about 20 to 30 years older then me!! (I'm 36). Bruce ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 05, 2000
From: John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Subject: Builders Seminars
> From: Robin Keller <rwkeller(at)pacbell.net> > Subject: RV-List: Builders Seminars > > > Having almost succumbed to the lure of building my own airplane, I'm > curious about how many of you attended a builders seminar before you > started on your building adventure. This time last year, I was where you are...on the verge of ordering the tail kit. (I'm not much farther along now, but that's another story!!!!!! :-) . Just some random thoughts... I attended a weekend SportAir sheet metal workshop down in Lakeland, FL a year ago. I was down there on business anyway, so I took an extra vacation day and went. My experience in working with tools and such was almost nil, and at the time I did not know of any builders close by enough to be able to easily look at their projects and see how things were done (I might add that the good folks at the RV Factory in Columbia, SC took me under their wings one Saturday and showed me around their shop and gave me a whole bunch of hints, which helped tremendously. Unfortunately, they're 2 1/2 hours away...they have one hell of a setup!). I'd debated whether or not the seminar would be worth the $279 it cost me. For me, I think it was, because of my lack of prior experience and because I couldn't find anyone close with a project (I have, since then). The seminar was decent...I still have the mini-projects I worked on to remind me of the mistakes I made. :-) If you go to a Sportair workshop, I'd recommend the sheet-metal seminar, and not the RV seminar. The latter covers a lot of other information besides metal-work that you can find out for yourself through the archives on this list and other builders' websites...the sheet-metal workshop allows you a lot more hands-on tin-bending and riveting time than the RV workshop. They also do workshops on other subjects, including electrical/avionics (which I've been told is good for the neophyte..but if you're fortunate enough to get to one of "Electric Bob's" seminars, GO!). Having said that...I've heard that the seminars and assistance that the Orndorffs, Averys, and a gent up in the Northwest named Henry (don't remember his last name) are excellent. They go into the details of constructing an RV, whereas the Sportair sheet-metal workshop is generic. EAA has begun to hold RV workshops, I don't know about them. So...in order of preference (and depending on the amount of $$ you have available)...I'd recommend 1) looking over other builders' shoulders and helping them with their project (check out White Pages on Van's Air Force - World-Wide Wing web site at http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/vaf.htm to find builders near you), or 2) the Sportair workshop or other workshops. > consider myself reasonably. I rebuilt an English sports car in my > youth - no mean feat - and had less than a full coffee can of "spare" > parts when I was finished. Watching the e-mail on this list server has > been terrific. But I do wonder if I have the knowledge to pull this off > without a little education at the beginning. If you've done that, you have the talent to build an airplane. Good luck...go for it! John Lawson RV-6 (waiting on trim tab parts...deburring and straightening out wing ribs in the meantime) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 05, 200
Subject: Re: RV6-List: List Fund Raiser Continues...
From: "E. D. Yoes" <eyoes(at)stic.net>
On Fri, Nov 3, 2000 11:33 AM, M. Drallle wrote: >Won't you make a Contribution via US Mail to the >address also listed below. > c/o Matt Dralle > Matronics > P.O. Box 347 > Livermore, CA 94551 I mailed a check to that address about two months ago and it has not cleared yet. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: Learn to Read!
Date: Nov 05, 2000
Bob's post: > > computers are logged onto a cable-modem account 24 hours > > a day and without firewalls and dedicated usage of the bookkeeping > > machine to avoid trojan horses, I'd have several thousand good > > credit card numbers hanging out there in the breeze A reply to his post: > Well, I hate to say this as I was going to start ordering from you in the > spring when my F1 rocket was futher along, but if you running on a cable > modem with no firewall, i am not going to ever place an order with you. Yet another post: > It looks to me like Bob was saying that he DOES have a firewall. Maybe Bob > could clear it up for us. Nothing needs to be cleared up, except for people to be able to read. Bob's original post above makes it crystal clear. It is one thing to misunderstand something, quite another to base a slam against someone's business on it. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN 6A ------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 05, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric's New Order Policy
> >Well, I hate to say this as I was going to start ordering from you in the >spring when my F1 rocket was futher along, but if you running on a cable >modem with no firewall, i am not going to ever place an order with you. You didn't read the note . . . I DO have a firewall . . several of them as a matter of fact. I could give you the IP number of that machine right now and (1) it's going to be a different IP number some time later today and (2) even if you probed it, you would not get an acknowledgement that it exists and (3) the machine that hosts our bookkeeping doesn't even have a browser or newsreader on it, it's never used to download anything from the net, and it never runs any sofware not specifically targeted at the task of taking care of business I do NOT have a secure website because of the costs of adding and maintaining that service where the purpose is only to encrypt a flow of lots of data (only 16 bytes of which are your credit card number) which is mixed into an incalculable flow of other data on then net for the few milliseconds it takes to make its journey out on the net. While technically feasable to lurk on a T3 line somewhere and watch for credit card numbers to fly by, why do it? Get a job as a waiter for a few weeks and you can have hundreds of perfectly good numbers and you don't need a machine like our government has perfected (Carnivore) to eavesdrop on public net-conversation. Why go to the expense of picking needles out of the haystack when you can open a tap that will produce lots of good numbers and you even get PAID for it! Thieves may be dishonest but they're not stupid.


October 31, 2000 - November 06, 2000

RV-Archive.digest.vol-jo