RV-Archive.digest.vol-jo
October 31, 2000 - November 06, 2000
>From: SALNED71(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: test pilot schools
>Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 14:15:13 EST
>
>
>Is there a list of test pilot schools we can attend
>before we test our airplanes.
>
> Thanks...........Ed Kowalski ...Finishing our RV-8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aeroflash light assemblies needed without power supply |
Mark,
When you called Aeroflash did you find out if they do sell the parts
individually. If they do then Acft Spruce or Wicks can oder from them. I
have done that with special orders through Acft Spruce before. Not all the
telephone operators now that so you may have to call customer sevice there
in order to get it done. They just need to know the manufacturer and part
number for what you want.
Good Luck.
Mike Robertson
>From: czechsix(at)juno.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Aeroflash light assemblies needed without power supply
>Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 05:17:47 -0600
>
>
>Listers,
>
>Does anyone know where I could get the Aeroflash strobe/nav light units
>WITHOUT the power supplies? I'd like to use these on my wingtips and all
>the companies I've called (including AC Spruce) will sell the whole
>system, but not the lights by themselves. What do you do if you break a
>lens on an Aeroflash system.....buy a whole new system? I called
>Aeroflash and they said they don't sell stuff directly, and told me to
>call AC Spruce!
>
>Whelen sells their light assemblies separately from the power supplies
>but I'm assuming the Aeroflash units will be cheaper, IF I can buy them
>somewhere.
>
>Thanks,
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net> |
Subject: | Re: Bendix Servo and Mixture Cable |
I checked the archives and found a lot of usefull info, but nothing on how
to secure or clamp the throttle and mixture cables to the engine or servo.
I am using a Bendix Fuel Injection Servo. I have Vans throttle mounting
bracket for O-360 engines. That bracket works for the throttle but it has
the mixture mounting on the wrong side of the servo. I tried making a
bracket out of aluminum and it fit well, but is not strong enough.
So for you that have gone before me, how did you handle this problem. Is
there a bracket that the certified aircraft use?
Thanks for the help.
Bob Busick
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Bendix Servo and Mixture Cable |
Hi Bob:
I have the same engine and fuel system on my RV4. I asked the same
question several years ago and came up empty. It seems each aircraft design
is unique enough that the throttle/mixture attachments all seem to be
different. I didn't find anything commercially available.
I designed a simple plate from 4130 0.063 stock that bolts between the
servo and the engine sump. The throttle and mixture cables attachments
consist of a couple of angle brackets. System is installed such that both
cables approach from the rear of the servo.
You didn't state what model aircraft you are working on. I still have
the template I made if you think it might be of some help.
Cheers,
Tom Brown RV4 flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Subject: | Ski Rack Pictures |
Sorry about the bum link, it's just that it is too long to fit on one line
and therefore it won't work.
Try:
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/vaf.htm
Look at the column on the left and select "Builders Mods".
All comments welcome.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: While were on the subject of RF... |
Jim,
I spent almost a week fooling around with a feed back problem in my headsets
(David Clarke 13.4 & 10-50) on my "6" when I keyed my mike, also the elevator
& aileron trim indicators would dim and go weird at the same time. I tore
everything apart and could find no reason for this peculiar behavior.
I talked to David Clark's tech guy, radio tech guy, intercom tech person,
(female very knowledgeable) know body had an idea what could be causing it,
finally I remembered there was a note in the Van's windshield antenna kit
that mentioned this problem.
I called and talked with Gus ( new guy) he also has a "6" and had a similar
problem with his windshield antenna. He told me he tied almost everything to
fix it. Finally he gave up and changed to a regular antenna mounted on the
belly. Here's the catch, I had a regular com antenna mounted on top behind
the rear window section (tilt not slider) not the windshield antenna!. I took
it off and mounted it on the belly, problem solved.
I believe the antenna was radiating the signal right into my headset when I
transmitted. I put the antenna back on top and tried moving my head around in
the cockpit to see what would happen. There was a definite pattern to my head
position and the noise. When I positioned the mike so that it was shielded
by the roll over structure the noise stopped. This is relay weird, I've built
some plastic airplanes and they are supposed to be very sensitive to antenna
design and placement. Never had a problem like this.
One last thing, people say not to mount an antenna on the belly because when
your talking on ground frequency it doesn't work very well. Gus told me his
works great except when it gets dirty.
I called Reid Hillveiw ground and requested a radio check, they reported loud
and clear. I made this call from my garage which is about 2 miles away. The
metal door was closed and there is a bunch of junk hanging on the walls. Go
figure. Hope this helps someone from spending hours chasing this gremlin.
Garry "6" still finishing
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote:
>
> Has anyone had any problems with RF from their com getting into their
> dimmers?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: need help on bleeding the brakes |
In a message dated 10/31/00 9:56:55 AM Eastern Standard Time,
dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
> >Isn't this bubble between the cylinder(s) and the reservoir? This would
> >place it on the low pressure side of the system, and it wouldn't cause any
> >spongienesss at all.
> >
> >I got one too...
> >
> >Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
> >RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
>
>
> The bubble is on the high pressure side of a dual brake system, ref 6A
> Drawing 49, R4, in the vicinity of the 44 NSR tube callout. The bubble is
> at the top of the arc of the lines connecting the cylinders.
>
> Dennis Persy
After I read all the words again, I noticed a couple I skimmed over the first
time: "Dual brakes".
Oh well...
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RobHickman(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Bendix Servo and Mixture Cable |
I have the Bendix Servo on my RV-4 with the O-360. I designed a bracket and
had it Laser cut and formed. I think I have a couple that I will sell for
what they cost me, I will check tonight. The bracket I have is bolted
between the servo and the air cleaner.
Drop me an email if you are interested.
robhickman(at)aol.com
-Rob Hickman
N401RH RV-4 ~100 Hours
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bendix Servo and Mixture Cable |
Bob,
Do you have an IO-360 or an O-360 that has been modified to take a fuel
servo. If it is an IO-360 then I might be able to help a little. I got the
57" cable from Van's but am going to change it out to a 60" cable from Acft
Spruce that has the high temp Teflon coating. Anyway. I got the throeaded
clevis that fits the misture arm perfectly for that and then, using two Adel
clamps secured the cable housing to the oil sump just under the #2 intake
tube. Whatever you do make sure to install firesleeve on the misture cable
as it runs pretty close to the #4 exhaust tube. If yu have any more
specific questions give me a shout.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
>From: "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Bendix Servo and Mixture Cable
>Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 15:21:06 -0800
>
>
>I checked the archives and found a lot of usefull info, but nothing on how
>to secure or clamp the throttle and mixture cables to the engine or servo.
>
>I am using a Bendix Fuel Injection Servo. I have Vans throttle mounting
>bracket for O-360 engines. That bracket works for the throttle but it has
>the mixture mounting on the wrong side of the servo. I tried making a
>bracket out of aluminum and it fit well, but is not strong enough.
>
>So for you that have gone before me, how did you handle this problem. Is
>there a bracket that the certified aircraft use?
>
>Thanks for the help.
>
>Bob Busick
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: While were on the subject of RF... |
>
>Has anyone had any problems with RF from their com getting into their
>dimmers? I'm using the stock dimmer unit from Van's and every time I key
>my mic my cabin/instrument lights go out. Obviously the signal from the
>transmitter is swamping the dimmer transistor but it all appears to be
>grounded properly. Lots of power from the battery and nice big wires
>feeding the dimmer unit. Do I need to put the dimmer in a metal box?
>
>I just love this stuff,
>
It would be nice if we had a schematic of the dimmer.
Most of these cases can be cured with some filtering
inside. Putting it inside a box is only part of the
fix, filtering input and output wires is usually
needed as well. I'm a bit concerned that the RF
level is so high on your wiring to the dimmer from
an antenna exernally mounted on a metal airplane.
I'd check your coax connections for shield grounds
that have come loose inside the connector.
If push comes to shove, our dimmers have stood off
strong RF interference rather well . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different from )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: Open Barrel Pin Connectors |
>
>Real good article. What do they cost? Do the type 1 that I bought do part
>of this one.?
>
I see that you bought one of the evaluation specials
I brought in before the current offering was selected
for stocking. I don't recall which one you got. I think
it was for the small (.062") Molex and D-Sub pins.
This tool covers the full range of pins common to aircraft.
They're now listed in our website catalog at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/catalog.html
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different from )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
Subject: | Re: Bleeding Brakes |
WAS BRILLIANT??? He still is the last time I read his column. :) In my
opinion, he's the Bob Nuckolls of the motorcycle world and I'm jealous that
you had the opportunity to talk with him personally.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/Motorcycling.htm
> Not necessarily RV related, but close. Back in the 1970s and 80s one of
the
> top privateer tuners for guys who roadraced motorcycles professionally was
a
> guy named Kevin Cameron. Masters in Engineering, PhD Harvard in Physics,
> the guy was brilliant. He could eyeball a 2 stroke expansion chamber and
> tell you where the power peak would be.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net> |
Subject: | VM-1000 order lead time |
FYI,
I received confirmation today that my order will ship from the vendor's
factory on 1/15/01. That's just over 2 1/2 months.
Tom Barnes -6 electrical
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Daniel Estrada F." <dani_estrada(at)infosel.net.mx> |
Subject: | Is there someone in San Antonio or Miami...? |
Hi...I need help frome someone who live in San Antonio, Texas or Miami,
Florida...why? let me explaine:
Here in Mexico if the total invoice of my items to be imported goes up to
$1,000.00 usd I must pay a lot of money (almost 50% of my total
purchase)..With that problem, it is convenient for me to buy my tools from
Avery and they send them to someone who lives in the states I mencioned
before. Then I get an airline ticket for free with a friend of mine, travel
to texas or miami, pick up my tools and get back to Mexico City....a little
bit tired but I think is the best thing I can do...
Please, if someone can help me and can trust, let me know so I can contact
him off list...
thanks in advance
Daniel Estrada F.
Mexico City
RV6A Empenage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
list-avionics ,
list-ez , list-glasair ,
list-lancair ,
list-rocket , list-rv8
Subject: | Heated pitot tube good price |
Hello listers,
I sent out a post not long ago saying I will continue to sell the AN5814
heated pitot tube at the old price of $199 until all of my current stock
is gone, then my price must go up due to increased price from the
manufacture. I still have a few. First come first serve. They will go
fast now.
I also sell the mounting bracket kits for mounting this and the
PH502-12CR heated pitot tube. Of course I sell this pitot also. To see
these products and others I offer look at my website. The address
is: http://www.gretzaero.com
I hope to hear from you soon.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Is there someone in San Antonio or Miami...? |
What ever happened to NAFTA. Oh Yea, that only works if the goods come from Mexico
to the USA.
Good lick finding someone.
Bruce
Glasair III
"Daniel Estrada F." wrote:
>
> Hi...I need help frome someone who live in San Antonio, Texas or Miami,
> Florida...why? let me explaine:
>
> Here in Mexico if the total invoice of my items to be imported goes up to
> $1,000.00 usd I must pay a lot of money (almost 50% of my total
> purchase)..With that problem, it is convenient for me to buy my tools from
> Avery and they send them to someone who lives in the states I mencioned
> before. Then I get an airline ticket for free with a friend of mine, travel
> to texas or miami, pick up my tools and get back to Mexico City....a little
> bit tired but I think is the best thing I can do...
>
> Please, if someone can help me and can trust, let me know so I can contact
> him off list...
>
> thanks in advance
>
> Daniel Estrada F.
> Mexico City
> RV6A Empenage
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net> |
Subject: | Alternator Weight |
I just received my alternator kit from Van's. I was very surprised at
how heavy it was. I thought this was supposed to be a "light weight"
alternator. Are the automotive alternators many of you are using lighter
and/or smaller than this? If so, I think I will convert.
Ted Lumpkin
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob DiMeo - Oracle <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au> |
Subject: | Strobe Power Supplies |
Mark,
I'm no expert by any means but here are a couple of things that might
help.
The light output you want is something close to what is put out by
aviation systems. You might as well put something on that will be seen on a
fast moving airplane from a reasonably long distance away in low light
conditions. (notice I did not say night since even low power flashers would
be seen a reasonable distance away on a black night). The current systems
put out by Wheelen run around 20 joules/flash (check their web site to be
sure). Their older system put out about 13 Joules. They went up in output
because of new FAA requirements. I would say that you should get something
that puts out at least what the older systems put out. I think Aeroflash
units come up to the older level.
For my money, I think Wheelen has the best approved systems right now and
Aeroflash is the most popular systems for homebuilders who don't want to
spend the high dollars. I understand that Grimes is getting back into the
business of general aviation lighting systems. You might want to research
them.
So what will I put on my plane? Right now I'm planning to go with Wheelen
wingtip strobes and q combination light/strobe on the tail and a wig-wag
landing light system. I might change my mind but only for a better system.
Bob
RV8#423 Fuselage on order
> ----------
> From: czechsix(at)juno.com
> Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2000 09:14 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Strobe Power Supplies
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I've been trying to figure out what strobe system I want to use on my RV.
> The archives seem to have more questions than answers. There's a number
> of systems on the market for aviation and non-aviation use, but many of
> them don't have good specs for comparison.
>
> I have a combination tail nav/strobe light that I was given and would
> like to get a single power supply that will drive 3 strobes (tail and
> both wingtips). Whelen has one that Vans sells (around $400 IIRC). I
> found a supply on Whelen's website (not designed for aircraft) called
> model SPS-660 at http://www.whelen.com/vpps26c.htm that drives up to 6
> strobes with either Cometflash or Doubleflash patterns for $267. It's
> rated 60 watts and on their spec page it says energy is 11/5/5/5 joules
> (typ). I assume this is the joules for each of the 4 flashes in the
> Cometflash pattern although I'm not sure about this....and have no way of
> comparing it to the aviation system Vans sells. Flash rate is 140 per
> min....is this too fast?
>
> The archives contain posts about Galls and ISSPRO systems that use a
> single power supply to drive 4 strobes but I haven't found specs on these
> either.
>
> If anyone has found something that will work for 3 bulbs, and has specs,
> let me know.
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
Subject: | Re: Bendix Servo and Mixture Cable |
In the first issue 2000 of RVator, there is reference to a throttle cable
bracket for IO-360 made by Aviat. When I called them to order it, I asked if
they had a mixture bracket too. They did and it only cost $3.29. It is
mounted on my engine, but I have not yet purchased a mixture cable. It looks
like it should work, with the cable skimming under the exhaust. The
firesleeve suggestion along with an exhaust shield is good advise. Even if
it doesn't work, it may be useful in any mount I have to fabricate.
Call Aviat at 307 886-3151 and ask for part number 32660. They had it in
stock when I ordered and it came if a few days.
Brian Eckstein
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott <acepilot(at)win.bright.net> |
Subject: | Re: While were on the subject of RF... |
Wouldn't hurt...if you're really comfortable working inside the Box (if
possible), try soldering in a 0.001 uF capacitor from Base to Emitter of
the transistor(s) in there...that will shunt the RF around the tranny
rather than through it. Do you have a schematic??? If so, I might be
able to offer other fixes as well.
Scott
ex-avioniker
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone had any problems with RF from their com getting into their
> dimmers? I'm using the stock dimmer unit from Van's and every time I key
> my mic my cabin/instrument lights go out. Obviously the signal from the
> transmitter is swamping the dimmer transistor but it all appears to be
> grounded properly. Lots of power from the battery and nice big wires
> feeding the dimmer unit. Do I need to put the dimmer in a metal box?
>
> I just love this stuff,
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8A ( cowl and systems check out )
> O-360 Sensenich 85
> N89JA reserved
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: Dimpled Nut Plate Question |
So here's the question...where exactly do I find the info describing
that the 'K' means a dimpled rivet hole..
I looked in the AC 43.13 but did not find this particular piece of info
(YET). Could somebody shed some light here please
thanks
Gert
> needs are too. I think that you're looking for NAS685A08 this has a dimple
> for the screw - add the suffix K to the end and you'll have one dimpled for
> the rivets also.
>
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: RV6 Slider Rail Fairing |
In a message dated 10/30/00 9:56:56 AM Pacific Standard Time,
panamared(at)brier.net writes:
<< As I recalled, I paid $10.00 and flew all the way from Houston Texas to get
it. However, it is great bargain at any price! I have received numerous
requests for the fairing, so I think there is a market, if you can make some
more. >>
Bob-
Your recollection is interesting and possibly true. Never let it be said
that I turned my back on the faithful. I'll see what I can do to fabricate
some more and notify the list.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com> |
RV-4/6/6A/8/8A standard flat top wingtips.
Also Simple Wingtip Lens Kit (Van's part number LN clear lens kit).
Van's price for these items is over $260.00.
I am asking $100.00.
Reason for selling. I bought a set of wingtips from Team Rocket.
Please respond to me off list or phone (845) 227 8527
Tony Castellano
tcastella(at)juno.com
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6 N401TC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
Subject: | RV6 Slider Rail Fairing |
Is there a picture of it somewhere? Would it be the same application as for
the 9?
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2000 6:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6 Slider Rail Fairing
In a message dated 10/30/00 9:56:56 AM Pacific Standard Time,
panamared(at)brier.net writes:
<< As I recalled, I paid $10.00 and flew all the way from Houston Texas to
get
it. However, it is great bargain at any price! I have received numerous
requests for the fairing, so I think there is a market, if you can make
some
more. >>
Bob-
Your recollection is interesting and possibly true. Never let it be said
that I turned my back on the faithful. I'll see what I can do to fabricate
some more and notify the list.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: RV6 Slider Rail Fairing |
In a message dated 10/31/00 6:53:24 PM Pacific Standard Time,
gtanner(at)bendcable.com writes:
<< Is there a picture of it somewhere? Would it be the same application as for
the 9? >>
Yes, they will work for the 6/6A/9A. I will see if I can get more made.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Subject: | Re: need help on bleeding the brakes |
If the bubble is in the line connecting the cylinders, then it's the low
pressure side of the pilot's brakes and the high pressure side of the co-pilot's
brakes-assuming that Van's series plumbing was followed. Therefore it would only
affect the co-pilot's brakes.
Dave
Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM <KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, October 30, 2000 9:16 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: need help on bleeding the brakes
>
> >
> >In a message dated 10/30/00 8:53:05 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> >dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
> >
> >> I observed exactly the same effect with my 6A dual brake system. The
> bubble
> >> takes overnight to appear. I have consulted several local RV flyers and
> >> builders and they have pumped my brakes and concur that there is no
> undue
> >> sponginess. I can see the bubble shrink when I apply brakes.
> >
> >Isn't this bubble between the cylinder(s) and the reservoir? This would
> >place it on the low pressure side of the system, and it wouldn't cause any
> >spongienesss at all.
> >
> >I got one too...
> >
> >Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
> >RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
>
> The bubble is on the high pressure side of a dual brake system, ref 6A
> Drawing 49, R4, in the vicinity of the 44 NSR tube callout. The bubble is
> at the top of the arc of the lines connecting the cylinders.
>
> Dennis Persyk
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jerryb" <jerryb(at)point.total-web.net> |
Hello All,
I just got a notice that my Insurance Co. is not gonna renew
Ins. on
experimentals.
I need some advice and companies that insure RV's. Phone
numbers would
also be helpful.
Thanks, JerryB
RV6 N40JP
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)peoplepc.com> |
Subject: | Re: Strobe Power Supplies |
I just recieved my power supply, a Double Dual Magnum, from Kuntzleman
Electronics...
http://www.kestrobes.com/New/Doublex.html
I had talked with Dick Kuntzleman a few times on the phone and via e-mail,
and had gotten advice from other sources before I made the purchase... The
PS is very light and small, so small in fact, I will be mounting it
vertically to one of the F-814 seat ribs in my -8A... Dick told me the PS
puts out 14 joules... I got the PS and shielded wring harnesses for $159.
It will be powering a pair of Whelen A600 all-in-one wing tip units. I will
post pictures of the installation to my website soon...
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Aeroflash light assemblies needed without power supply |
From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
I talked to Mark at Team Rocket today....he was very helpful and put in
an order with Aeroflash for the strobe/nav light assemblies, $95 a piece
(compared to $120 for Whelen's units).
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A.........strobes......etc
writes:
> Did you try talking to Mark Frederick at Team Rocket? Mark is a
>dealer
>for Aeroflash.
>
>Mike Wills
>RV4 firewall forward
>willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
>
>
>>
>>Listers,
>>
>>Does anyone know where I could get the Aeroflash strobe/nav light
>units
>>WITHOUT the power supplies? I'd like to use these on my wingtips and
>all
>>the companies I've called (including AC Spruce) will sell the whole
>>system, but not the lights by themselves. What do you do if you
>break a
>>lens on an Aeroflash system.....buy a whole new system? I called
>>Aeroflash and they said they don't sell stuff directly, and told me
>to
>>call AC Spruce!
>>
>>Whelen sells their light assemblies separately from the power
>supplies
>>but I'm assuming the Aeroflash units will be cheaper, IF I can buy
>them
>>somewhere.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>--Mark Navratil
>>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>>RV-8A
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: Alternator Weight |
>
> I just received my alternator kit from Van's. I was very surprised at
>how heavy it was. I thought this was supposed to be a "light weight"
>alternator. Are the automotive alternators many of you are using lighter
>and/or smaller than this? If so, I think I will convert.
I believe a NiponDienso 40A machine weighs about 6.5 pounds
but I don't recall if that includes the mounting bracket.
Call B&C at 316.283.8000 and ask Todd what the weights
of the 40 and 60 amp machines are and if their weights
include mounting hardware.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different from )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Dimpled Nut Plate Question |
The 'K' info came direct from Alvin at Aircraft Supply. The catalog itseld
mentions a 'C' (maybe for countersunk?).
I initially tried to order them that way - we got it straight during the
discussion that ensued.
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | FL Panhandle RV's |
Hello Rusty, Craig, & others in the FL panhandle,
I'm taking Friday off work & plan to enjoy this excellent weather we are
having here in the SE by planning a small trip to the FL panhandle. I'd like
to get together some other RVer's on Friday and/or Saturday. Not firm on
where I'm going yet but thinking of Destin and/or St. George Is. If you
respond, I'll meet up with you on your home turf. Perhaps you locals can
suggest a good place to fly into. For you builders up there, speak up,
here's a chance for a ride in a -6. Saturday afternoon I have to take my
wife over to JAX to meet up with her sister. I plan to fly into Hurlong
Field. Then perhaps go down to St. Augustine for Sunday.
Rick Caldwell
-6 Melbourne, FL 142 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "skybolt-aviator" <skybolt-aviator(at)email.msn.com> |
For RVs--Nation Air 636 532 0023----Very good rate.
----- Original Message -----
From: "jerryb" <jerryb(at)point.total-web.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2000 10:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: Insurance
>
> Hello All,
> I just got a notice that my Insurance Co. is not gonna renew
> Ins. on
> experimentals.
> I need some advice and companies that insure RV's. Phone
> numbers would
> also be helpful.
> Thanks, JerryB
> RV6 N40JP
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
I amcontemplating the purchase of a RV8A kit...can anyone tell me what
0320 engine/engines will fit this airframe?...I wish to stay with a
carb-type engine, and I heard something about oil
pump/housing/gears..can anyone point the ad# out for me..one other
thing...I heard also that the bendis mags now have a nasty ad against
them also..is this true...thanks from a newcomer...jolly in aurora...do
not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> |
Subject: | putting screws in platenuts |
I bought an RV-4 project with wings and tail already complete. Working on
the fuse now. My question: is it always difficult to put the screws in the
platenuts? I am installing the F-419 forward top skin on the -4, and some
of the screws just won't screw all the way into the platenut, it gets so
tight that I strip out the screw driver slot. What am I doing wrong? any
comments or suggestions would be appreciated.
Larry Hawkins RV-4 Farmington NM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
Subject: | Well it's November.................. |
Well folks,
I hate to spring this on you without much advance warning and all but it's
November already. For you newer List members you may not know but this is
the time of year we all give "thanks" for all that Matte Dralle has done
for us with this RV-List. the customary way of saying "thanks" is with a
voluntary donation of cash through Matte's own simple and safe contribution
hot-line at:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
It's really rather painless and actually gives you a good warm and fuzzy
feeling inside after you have made your contribution. Now last year I
relied heavily on guilt to get some of you harder nuts to crack to ante
up. This year I hope that in keeping with the election year theme I can
learn something from the experts........"It's for the children."
Yes your contribution will help children everywhere learn about the high
moral values that are inherent in the RV family of aircraft. As our young
charges surf the Internet for information on various things that we don't
want them to know about, they may stumble across the Matronics Website and
become aware of the RV-List and other interesting forums that Matte
provides. This in turn may change there lives as they see what can be
achieved through hard work and perseverance. They will learn how the polite
exchange of idea's between consenting adults can result in the birth of one
(or more) of the finest aircraft in existence today. They can become aware
of a whole world out there that had previously been unknown or out of reach
to them. So in the interest of our children, send your contribution to
Matte to help the RV-List live long and prosper.............Darn, got my
tongue caught in my cheek there for a moment.
Once again, you can make your contribution through credit card at:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
c/o Matte Dralle
Matronics
P.O. Box 347
Livermore, CA. 94551
I would like to pledge at this time that I will not place any negative
advertising in the hope of raising funds for RV-List support. (Unless you
folks hold out too long, then look out!) Let's have a real clean campaign
this November and get out the contributions! AL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | OrndorffG(at)AOL.COM |
Call Mac McGee at Aviation Underwriting Agency (AUA). The number is
800-727-2823. We've been pleased with the service for years and his rates
are good! Tell him George and Becki referred you to him.
Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: putting screws in platenuts |
Larry Hawkins wrote:
>
>
> I bought an RV-4 project with wings and tail already complete. Working on
> the fuse now. My question: is it always difficult to put the screws in the
> platenuts? I am installing the F-419 forward top skin on the -4, and some
> of the screws just won't screw all the way into the platenut, it gets so
> tight that I strip out the screw driver slot. What am I doing wrong? any
> comments or suggestions would be appreciated.
> Larry Hawkins RV-4 Farmington NM
>
Larry, get some Boelube, a dry lubricate available from several sources
including Cleaveland Aircraft Tools. Drag the threads of the screw
across the Boelube and the screws will go into the plate nuts with no
difficulty.
No, the lube will not diminish the locking ability of the plate nuts.
By the way, Boelube works great on cowl hinge pins as well!
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>I amcontemplating the purchase of a RV8A kit...can anyone tell me what
>0320 engine/engines will fit this airframe?...I wish to stay with a
>carb-type engine, and I heard something about oil
>pump/housing/gears..can anyone point the ad# out for me..one other
>thing...I heard also that the bendis mags now have a nasty ad against
>them also..is this true...thanks from a newcomer...jolly in aurora...do
>not archive
>
Jolly,
Most O-320's will fit as long as they have a bottom mount, updraft
carburetor (on the oil sump) and aft mounted accessories. As far as
specific AD issues, that needs to be addressed with each engine model
number. Can't really tell you what models to avoid as just about all of them
can be made to work with some mods. Don't sweat the engine stuff right now.
Unless you have one you're looking at now with an enticing price tag?
I have Bendix mags and they work fine. Don't know about any major AD issue
with them. I do plan to replace them with Slicks or electronic within the
next year since they are getting pretty old.
Good luck,
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
147 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com> |
Subject: | Strobe Power Supplies |
5.0.3 (Intl)|21 March 2000) at 11/01/2000 09:05:28 AM
Bill, I investigated the Kuntzleman option also. If I were going with only
two strobes and lower power I would buy his unit since (according to him at
least) it is lighter than the Aeroflash units, puts out 14 joules vs. 10 or
11 for Aeroflash, and somehow still draws less current than the Aeroflash
system. If the specs I've seen are correct it sounds like the Aeroflash
power supplies are not very efficient....Whelen's system also appears to be
way more efficient in terms of joules delivered to the strobe vs amperage
required from your electrical system.
Since I want at least 20 joules and preferably 3 strobes, Kuntzleman's
supply won't work for me.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Strobe Power Supplies
I just recieved my power supply, a Double Dual Magnum, from Kuntzleman
Electronics...
http://www.kestrobes.com/New/Doublex.html
I had talked with Dick Kuntzleman a few times on the phone and via e-mail,
and had gotten advice from other sources before I made the purchase... The
PS is very light and small, so small in fact, I will be mounting it
vertically to one of the F-814 seat ribs in my -8A... Dick told me the PS
puts out 14 joules... I got the PS and shielded wring harnesses for $159.
It will be powering a pair of Whelen A600 all-in-one wing tip units. I
will
post pictures of the installation to my website soon...
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 10/31/00 7:53:00 PM Pacific Standard Time,
jerryb(at)point.total-web.net writes:
<< My Insurance Co. is not gonna renew
Ins. on
Experimentals.
I need some advice and companies that insure RV's. Phone
numbers would
also be helpful. >>
Lots of them listed in the RV Builders' Yeller Pages.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | putting screws in platenuts |
Hi Larry,
You are right on. The platenuts are deformed a bit to hold the screw tight.
I use hardened steel screws which hold up better. But keep in mind they
have to painted unlike stainless.
Jack
Des Moines, IA
RV8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Hawkins
Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 8:14 AM
Subject: RV-List: putting screws in platenuts
I bought an RV-4 project with wings and tail already complete. Working on
the fuse now. My question: is it always difficult to put the screws in the
platenuts? I am installing the F-419 forward top skin on the -4, and some
of the screws just won't screw all the way into the platenut, it gets so
tight that I strip out the screw driver slot. What am I doing wrong? any
comments or suggestions would be appreciated.
Larry Hawkins RV-4 Farmington NM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Alternator Weight |
Ted Lumpkin wrote:
>
>
> I just received my alternator kit from Van's. I was very surprised at
> how heavy it was. I thought this was supposed to be a "light weight"
> alternator. Are the automotive alternators many of you are using lighter
> and/or smaller than this? If so, I think I will convert.
>
> Ted Lumpkin
> RV-4
Ted, "lightweight" is relative!
Put the Vans alternator in one hand and the standard, certificated, 60
amp Motorcraft unit in the other and you will see why the ND is
"lightweight".
Robin Hunt is running a tiny little 65 amp alternator in his RV8 that is
for a Geo Metro/Sprint. It is the smallest automotive alternator I have
seen and has internal regulation which you may or may not want.
However, I doubt that you will find an alternator that weighs much less
than the Vans/ND unit.
Good luck,
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with Vans alternator)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
Subject: | Re: putting screws in platenuts |
From: | "Denis (Bum) Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
Yes. Nothing. Lubricate: Boelube or tapping fluid are good. Get a hex
head screw at hardware store and pre screw those dudes. The socket (hex
key) head screw can be driven with your electric screwdriver :+).
O yeh the longer those steel platenuts have been sitting aruond the tougher
they get. As to the danger of 'loosening' them up to much. Never happens.
Good luck
> From: Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 07:13:54 -0700
> To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com '"
> Subject: RV-List: putting screws in platenuts
>
>
> I bought an RV-4 project with wings and tail already complete. Working on
> the fuse now. My question: is it always difficult to put the screws in the
> platenuts? I am installing the F-419 forward top skin on the -4, and some
> of the screws just won't screw all the way into the platenut, it gets so
> tight that I strip out the screw driver slot. What am I doing wrong? any
> comments or suggestions would be appreciated.
> Larry Hawkins RV-4 Farmington NM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: putting screws in platenuts |
Larry, I lubricate the screws with fuellube (Aircraft Spruce) works great for
me.
Kevin in WA
-9A
starting fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
Subject: | Strobe Power Supplies |
Someone else asked me about a 3 strobe PS last night... I bet Dick would
make one if the demand was there... I will shoot him an e-mail...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 7:59 AM
Subject: RV-List: Strobe Power Supplies
Bill, I investigated the Kuntzleman option also. If I were going with only
two strobes and lower power I would buy his unit since (according to him at
least) it is lighter than the Aeroflash units, puts out 14 joules vs. 10 or
11 for Aeroflash, and somehow still draws less current than the Aeroflash
system. If the specs I've seen are correct it sounds like the Aeroflash
power supplies are not very efficient....Whelen's system also appears to be
way more efficient in terms of joules delivered to the strobe vs amperage
required from your electrical system.
Since I want at least 20 joules and preferably 3 strobes, Kuntzleman's
supply won't work for me.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "rlluster" <rlluster(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 76 Msgs - 10/31/00 |
Listers,
I am building an RV9, and am looking to put a Lycoming 320 in it. In looking
at the many used or rebuild engines I need direction as to what the various
letters mean. If there is a site with this info, it would be helpful. I have
already gone to the Lycoming site, and did not find the definitions.
Thanks
Richard Luster
Marysville, Wa
wings, fuse on order
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
Subject: | putting screws in platenuts |
Try some Beolube on the screws. It's available from Avery's.
Ed Cole
Maxim Integrated Products
Bldg. 120 Ext. 6605
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Hawkins [SMTP:lhawkins(at)giant.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 6:14 AM
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com '
> Subject: RV-List: putting screws in platenuts
>
>
> I bought an RV-4 project with wings and tail already complete. Working on
> the fuse now. My question: is it always difficult to put the screws in the
> platenuts? I am installing the F-419 forward top skin on the -4, and some
> of the screws just won't screw all the way into the platenut, it gets so
> tight that I strip out the screw driver slot. What am I doing wrong? any
> comments or suggestions would be appreciated.
> Larry Hawkins RV-4 Farmington NM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bruce Meacham <bruceme(at)exmsft.com> |
I remember the old (sigh) RV Source had a great section on old RVators. Is
there any other source for RVators online? Specifically I'm looking for an
older RVator on using LED's for instrument lighting.
Bruce Meacham
bruceme(at)exmsft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
thanks
Brian Denk wrote:
>
> >I amcontemplating the purchase of a RV8A kit...can anyone tell me what
> >0320 engine/engines will fit this airframe?...I wish to stay with a
> >carb-type engine, and I heard something about oil
> >pump/housing/gears..can anyone point the ad# out for me..one other
> >thing...I heard also that the bendis mags now have a nasty ad against
> >them also..is this true...thanks from a newcomer...jolly in aurora...do
> >not archive
> >
> Jolly,
>
> Most O-320's will fit as long as they have a bottom mount, updraft
> carburetor (on the oil sump) and aft mounted accessories. As far as
> specific AD issues, that needs to be addressed with each engine model
> number. Can't really tell you what models to avoid as just about all of them
> can be made to work with some mods. Don't sweat the engine stuff right now.
> Unless you have one you're looking at now with an enticing price tag?
>
> I have Bendix mags and they work fine. Don't know about any major AD issue
> with them. I do plan to replace them with Slicks or electronic within the
> next year since they are getting pretty old.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> 147 hrs.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
A few years ago I mentioned a similar ski rack idea to someone at Van's. I
think it might have been Bill. Anyway, he had CG concerns about placing
objects aft of the baggage compartment. His recommendation instead was to get
a large piece of PVC tubing, close off the ends with something resembling a
spinner and attach it externally to the belly of the plane, sort of like a
drop tank.
I like this idea, but have been thinking about ways to do it better. For
example, rather than some ugly and heavy piece of PVC tubing, I am thinking
about making a nice aerodynamically shaped custom pod from composites. This
could hang by two simple brackets attached to the fuselage floor angles so it
could be easily attached or removed when you want to use it. It would mount
forward enough to not be affected by the heat of the exhaust blast, and can be
long enough so as not to scrape the ground during landing. Tail draggers might
have a problem with this, but nose wheel folks should be able to get it long
enough for skiis with sufficient clearance.
What I'm wondering is how this might affect in-flight handling of the plane.
I've heard military AWACs pilots who fly with that huge radar disc on top of
their planes saying that they don't even know it's there.
The pod could be shaped in two ways. One, symetrically and aerodynamically for
minimum drag, or two as an airfoil to build some extra lift to compensate for
the weight of the pod. As a complete amatuer in this type of thing, I tend to
favor aerodynamically (not as an airfoil) to minimize stresses on the mounting
brackets. Having a single bracket fail with this thing hanging in the breeze
could definitely ruin one's flight.
Your thoughts?
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Strobe Power Supplies-replacement parts |
11/01/2000 12:43:13 PM
Can anyone comment on spare or replacement strobe tubes for the AeroFlash
units. The Wheelen strobe replacement tubes can be purchaced from a number
of sources. I can't seem to find replacement tubes for the Aero Flash
Units. I am asking because I too am ready to buy, and the AeroFlash units
are cheeper to purchace (new). But I am looking a few years into the future
and If I need replacement flash tubes.....I can't find any today......Any
comments from the crowd....
(at)matronics.com on 11/01/2000 09:59:07 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Strobe Power Supplies
Bill, I investigated the Kuntzleman option also. If I were going with only
two strobes and lower power I would buy his unit since (according to him at
least) it is lighter than the Aeroflash units, puts out 14 joules vs. 10 or
11 for Aeroflash, and somehow still draws less current than the Aeroflash
system. If the specs I've seen are correct it sounds like the Aeroflash
power supplies are not very efficient....Whelen's system also appears to be
way more efficient in terms of joules delivered to the strobe vs amperage
required from your electrical system.
Since I want at least 20 joules and preferably 3 strobes, Kuntzleman's
supply won't work for me.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Strobe Power Supplies
I just recieved my power supply, a Double Dual Magnum, from Kuntzleman
Electronics...
http://www.kestrobes.com/New/Doublex.html
I had talked with Dick Kuntzleman a few times on the phone and via e-mail,
and had gotten advice from other sources before I made the purchase... The
PS is very light and small, so small in fact, I will be mounting it
vertically to one of the F-814 seat ribs in my -8A... Dick told me the PS
puts out 14 joules... I got the PS and shielded wring harnesses for $159.
It will be powering a pair of Whelen A600 all-in-one wing tip units. I
will
post pictures of the installation to my website soon...
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: putting screws in platenuts |
In a message dated 11/1/00 6:10:14 AM Pacific Standard Time,
lhawkins(at)giant.com writes:
<< , it gets so tight that I strip out the screw driver slot. >>
Try putting a dab of grease (Lubriplate works great) on the tip of the screw
the first time you run it into the nutplate. Works good for me>
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | A Season of Giving - Please Support Your List! |
Dear Listers,
As my good friend Al Mojzisik from the RV-List forum has pointed out in
his humorous style this morning, its time for the Annual List Fund
Raiser! For those that are new to the Lists since last year, I'd like
to just mention what its all about. I have always run the List services
here completely free of charge to the members. This includes the Email
Lists, Archive Search Engine, as well as some of the other goodies found
on the servers. My policy has always been that I will never charge a
'fee' to sign up for any of the email Lists and I have also turned down
a number potentially lucrative of 'commercial' offers to provide
advertising space either on the various web pages or on in each of the
outgoing emails. I have always graciously declined these offers,
however, because I have felt that the friendly, homey feeling of the
commercial-free site was very appealing. I have also felt that offering
the services here for free is the best way to stimulate the greatest
membership, and in my opinion, this is the most important element in the
success of a forum such as this. So, once again, I will restate my
commitment to always keeping all of the services here on the Matronics
servers free to everyone.
That being said, I must also say that running this system is far from
free for me, however. I am continually trying to provide the best, most
reliable service possible and have continued to upgrade the systems as
necessary to maintain or improve the level of service I provide. Quite
aside from the "real costs" involved in the maintenance of a service
like this, however, is the time commitment necessary to keep everything
running and time required to produce new and improved software
enhancements to make the whole experience more enjoyable for everyone.
On the average I spend 10 to 20 hours a week handling subscription
requests and related problems, maintaining the existing computer code
base, and developing new utilities for the List community.
The whole List site (web server and email server) continue to run across
the 768kb/sec DSL-based Internet connection. Connections to the servers
have generally been pretty reliable and performance has been good. Up
time for the connection has approached the 99% mark.
If you regularly enjoy the services provided here, I would ask that you
make a Contribution in any amount in which you are comfortable. Your
Contribution will be used to directly support the continued operation
and improvement of all these services, and as always, I will turn your
Contributions back into more upgrades and improvements. It is truly an
investment in the future of these Lists.
To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard,
please go to the following URL and follow the simple instructions:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to:
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
As I have done in the past, I will post a "Contributors List" at the end
of the Fund Raiser, personally acknowledging each and everyone that has
generously made a Contribution this year!
Finally, I just want to say *Thank You* to everyone that has supported
me and my operation here this year. Your support and encouragement
means a great deal to me and I feel like I have friends literally from
all around the world!
Sincerely,
Matt Dralle
Your Email List Administrator
dralle(at)matronics.com
===========================================================================
>--------------
>
>Well folks,
>
>I hate to spring this on you without much advance warning and all but it's
>November already. For you newer List members you may not know but this is
>the time of year we all give "thanks" for all that Matte Dralle has done
>for us with this RV-List. the customary way of saying "thanks" is with a
>voluntary donation of cash through Matte's own simple and safe contribution
>hot-line at:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>It's really rather painless and actually gives you a good warm and fuzzy
>feeling inside after you have made your contribution. Now last year I
>relied heavily on guilt to get some of you harder nuts to crack to ante
>up. This year I hope that in keeping with the election year theme I can
>learn something from the experts........"It's for the children."
>
>Yes your contribution will help children everywhere learn about the high
>moral values that are inherent in the RV family of aircraft. As our young
>charges surf the Internet for information on various things that we don't
>want them to know about, they may stumble across the Matronics Website and
>become aware of the RV-List and other interesting forums that Matte
>provides. This in turn may change there lives as they see what can be
>achieved through hard work and perseverance. They will learn how the polite
>exchange of idea's between consenting adults can result in the birth of one
>(or more) of the finest aircraft in existence today. They can become aware
>of a whole world out there that had previously been unknown or out of reach
>to them. So in the interest of our children, send your contribution to
>Matte to help the RV-List live long and prosper.............Darn, got my
>tongue caught in my cheek there for a moment.
>
>Once again, you can make your contribution through credit card at:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> c/o Matt Dralle
> Matronics
> P.O. Box 347
> Livermore, CA. 94551
>
>I would like to pledge at this time that I will not place any negative
>advertising in the hope of raising funds for RV-List support. (Unless you
>folks hold out too long, then look out!) Let's have a real clean campaign
>this November and get out the contributions! AL
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Ski Racks-idea |
11/01/2000 01:33:07 PM
For an idea start with a single pressure recovery wheel fairing from Vans
or Sam James (Sam's are a bit bigger) Simply use the front of the fairing
for the nose of your Ski-tube and the rear of the fairing for the rear of
the Ski-tube. Knowing Vans designs, you will probably gain some speed &
need to repitch your prop for more bite......
Andy (at)matronics.com on 11/01/2000 12:24:46 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Re: Ski Racks
A few years ago I mentioned a similar ski rack idea to someone at Van's. I
think it might have been Bill. Anyway, he had CG concerns about placing
objects aft of the baggage compartment. His recommendation instead was to
get
a large piece of PVC tubing, close off the ends with something resembling a
spinner and attach it externally to the belly of the plane, sort of like a
drop tank.
I like this idea, but have been thinking about ways to do it better. For
example, rather than some ugly and heavy piece of PVC tubing, I am thinking
about making a nice aerodynamically shaped custom pod from composites. This
could hang by two simple brackets attached to the fuselage floor angles so
it
could be easily attached or removed when you want to use it. It would mount
forward enough to not be affected by the heat of the exhaust blast, and can
be
long enough so as not to scrape the ground during landing. Tail draggers
might
have a problem with this, but nose wheel folks should be able to get it
long
enough for skiis with sufficient clearance.
What I'm wondering is how this might affect in-flight handling of the
plane.
I've heard military AWACs pilots who fly with that huge radar disc on top
of
their planes saying that they don't even know it's there.
The pod could be shaped in two ways. One, symetrically and aerodynamically
for
minimum drag, or two as an airfoil to build some extra lift to compensate
for
the weight of the pod. As a complete amatuer in this type of thing, I tend
to
favor aerodynamically (not as an airfoil) to minimize stresses on the
mounting
brackets. Having a single bracket fail with this thing hanging in the
breeze
could definitely ruin one's flight.
Your thoughts?
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Subject: | 10% for Matronics |
Builder's Bookstore and eCharts is happy to do again, what we did successfully
last year. That is to donate a portion of our sales for the month of November
to the maintenance of the RV-list.
10% FOR MATRONICS
Starting now, 10% of any purchase from either Builder's Bookstore or eCharts
will be put aside as a donation to the RV-list, as our thanks for this
excellent resource for RV builders and pilots. We will run this special
throughout November with a check for the total amount presented to Matt on
December 1st 2000.
To designate your share, please write the words "10% for Matronics" in the
Special Instructions box on the on-line order form. Or, if you order something
by phone, just tell me when you call.
Thank you Matt for this excellent service.
Andy Gold
Builder's Bookstore
http://buildersbooks.com
eCharts
http://eCharts.cc
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gar & Jan Pessel" <pessel(at)ptialaska.net> |
Subject: | PTT switch wire run |
I am planning to put PTT switches in both sticks in my RV6. Where do folks
generally run the wires out of the stick? I am inclined to drill a hole
near the center of rotation for the stick, but this would require a bushing.
The smallest bushings I have require a 3/8 inch hole, which seems like a
large hole in the stick. Any suggestions? Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, AK
(preparing to install the engine next week)
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Insurance
Thread-Index: AcBEHAXJutp/S6MAQeeJsAJRSGWuPwAGdDPQ
From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
I just got insurance on my bird last week from Scott Sky Smith. $1462
(AIG) $60,000 hull, $100 deductibles. He's in the yeller pages.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 53 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> |
Subject: | RE: RV4-List: A Season of Giving - Please Support Your List! |
Matt
I happily submitted my contribution this morning because I would hate to
think about building without the help from the builders that are willing and
anxious to help people like me. I also enjoy the letters about flying from
the people that have finished their RV's.
Thanks to all.
Get those contributions sent in, it's easy and painless, and money well
spent.
Larry Hawkins, RV-4 fuse Farmington,NM
-----Original Message-----
From: dralle(at)matronics.com [mailto:dralle(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 11:23 AM
Subject: RV4-List: A Season of Giving - Please Support Your List!
--> RV4-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Dear Listers,
As my good friend Al Mojzisik from the RV-List forum has pointed out in
his humorous style this morning, its time for the Annual List Fund
Raiser! For those that are new to the Lists since last year, I'd like
to just mention what its all about. I have always run the List services
here completely free of charge to the members. This includes the Email
Lists, Archive Search Engine, as well as some of the other goodies found
on the servers. My policy has always been that I will never charge a
'fee' to sign up for any of the email Lists and I have also turned down
a number potentially lucrative of 'commercial' offers to provide
advertising space either on the various web pages or on in each of the
outgoing emails. I have always graciously declined these offers,
however, because I have felt that the friendly, homey feeling of the
commercial-free site was very appealing. I have also felt that offering
the services here for free is the best way to stimulate the greatest
membership, and in my opinion, this is the most important element in the
success of a forum such as this. So, once again, I will restate my
commitment to always keeping all of the services here on the Matronics
servers free to everyone.
That being said, I must also say that running this system is far from
free for me, however. I am continually trying to provide the best, most
reliable service possible and have continued to upgrade the systems as
necessary to maintain or improve the level of service I provide. Quite
aside from the "real costs" involved in the maintenance of a service
like this, however, is the time commitment necessary to keep everything
running and time required to produce new and improved software
enhancements to make the whole experience more enjoyable for everyone.
On the average I spend 10 to 20 hours a week handling subscription
requests and related problems, maintaining the existing computer code
base, and developing new utilities for the List community.
The whole List site (web server and email server) continue to run across
the 768kb/sec DSL-based Internet connection. Connections to the servers
have generally been pretty reliable and performance has been good. Up
time for the connection has approached the 99% mark.
If you regularly enjoy the services provided here, I would ask that you
make a Contribution in any amount in which you are comfortable. Your
Contribution will be used to directly support the continued operation
and improvement of all these services, and as always, I will turn your
Contributions back into more upgrades and improvements. It is truly an
investment in the future of these Lists.
To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard,
please go to the following URL and follow the simple instructions:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to:
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
As I have done in the past, I will post a "Contributors List" at the end
of the Fund Raiser, personally acknowledging each and everyone that has
generously made a Contribution this year!
Finally, I just want to say *Thank You* to everyone that has supported
me and my operation here this year. Your support and encouragement
means a great deal to me and I feel like I have friends literally from
all around the world!
Sincerely,
Matt Dralle
Your Email List Administrator
dralle(at)matronics.com
===========================================================================
>--------------
>
>Well folks,
>
>I hate to spring this on you without much advance warning and all but it's
>November already. For you newer List members you may not know but this is
>the time of year we all give "thanks" for all that Matte Dralle has done
>for us with this RV-List. the customary way of saying "thanks" is with a
>voluntary donation of cash through Matte's own simple and safe contribution
>hot-line at:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>It's really rather painless and actually gives you a good warm and fuzzy
>feeling inside after you have made your contribution. Now last year I
>relied heavily on guilt to get some of you harder nuts to crack to ante
>up. This year I hope that in keeping with the election year theme I can
>learn something from the experts........"It's for the children."
>
>Yes your contribution will help children everywhere learn about the high
>moral values that are inherent in the RV family of aircraft. As our young
>charges surf the Internet for information on various things that we don't
>want them to know about, they may stumble across the Matronics Website and
>become aware of the RV-List and other interesting forums that Matte
>provides. This in turn may change there lives as they see what can be
>achieved through hard work and perseverance. They will learn how the polite
>exchange of idea's between consenting adults can result in the birth of one
>(or more) of the finest aircraft in existence today. They can become aware
>of a whole world out there that had previously been unknown or out of reach
>to them. So in the interest of our children, send your contribution to
>Matte to help the RV-List live long and prosper.............Darn, got my
>tongue caught in my cheek there for a moment.
>
>Once again, you can make your contribution through credit card at:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> c/o Matt Dralle
> Matronics
> P.O. Box 347
> Livermore, CA. 94551
>
>I would like to pledge at this time that I will not place any negative
>advertising in the hope of raising funds for RV-List support. (Unless you
>folks hold out too long, then look out!) Let's have a real clean campaign
>this November and get out the contributions! AL
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | bulkhead fitting drill size |
From: | "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com> |
Can someone tell me where to find the appropriate drill size for an AN832-4D
bulkhead union? Also, how far apart should the fittings be on the f-6122? I
assume pretty close to lessen the chance of the hoses rubbing on the angles.
thanks
Robert Dickson
Fayetteville NC
RV-6A, brakes
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
Subject: | Re: PTT switch wire run |
From: | "Denis (Bum) Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
That's what I did. Two suggestions:
Use AWG 22 tefzel wire. You need the toughness. Second, beware where you
drill the hole. What looked great to me was just where it whacked the hole
in the floor. I had clearance when I cut the hole but it grew with the
wires/ Duh.
> From: "Gar & Jan Pessel" <pessel(at)ptialaska.net>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 09:59:34 -0900
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: PTT switch wire run
>
>
> I am planning to put PTT switches in both sticks in my RV6. Where do folks
> generally run the wires out of the stick? I am inclined to drill a hole
> near the center of rotation for the stick, but this would require a bushing.
> The smallest bushings I have require a 3/8 inch hole, which seems like a
> large hole in the stick. Any suggestions? Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, AK
> (preparing to install the engine next week)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Subject: | Brake cyl plunger orientation was: bleeding brakes |
I need to correct myself. I checked my brakes last night and they are
indeed mounted with the plungers up. This is a newer kit so that makes
sense. Special thanks to Pat for sending me the brake mod instructions.
Glad to know that I don't need to perform that mod.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "ray sheffield" <1052a(at)prodigy.net> |
Wanted used KLN-135a navcom used,
tray and wiring harness not needed.
please email off list
ray
1052a(at)prodigy.net
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: PTT switch wire run |
11/01/2000 03:52:36 PM
A very small grommet.
"Gar & Jan Pessel" (at)matronics.com on 11/01/2000
01:59:34 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: PTT switch wire run
I am planning to put PTT switches in both sticks in my RV6. Where do folks
generally run the wires out of the stick? I am inclined to drill a hole
near the center of rotation for the stick, but this would require a
bushing.
The smallest bushings I have require a 3/8 inch hole, which seems like a
large hole in the stick. Any suggestions? Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, AK
(preparing to install the engine next week)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-List:TAYLORCRAFT BC12-D |
posting for a friend
new taylorcraft for sale less engine 12k. must see to appreciate. wings need
covering. elderly gentalman has no time or energy. contact me if you want
more details.
scott
rv6a tampa
F
&%
&ing FIBER
&%$&
WHel
4a35 PAN%#2
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com> |
Subject: | Strobe Power Supplies |
5.0.3 (Intl)|21 March 2000) at 11/01/2000 03:13:48 PM
>>From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Strobe Power Supplies
>>
>>
>>>> Dick told me the PS
>>>> puts out 14 joules...
>>
>>
>>I am trying to make a final descision on strobes. I would like to see a
list
>>of all the options and their power capabilities. For example, Whelen has
two
>>ways of putting strobes on the wings. The first have a power supply in
each
>>wing. ACS page 364 shows this supply at 34 joules. This must mean each
>>light. The second way would be to have a central power supply. I am
having
>>trouble finding the output of one of these. The chart at the top says the
>>A413 puts out 44 joules combined. Does that mean each light will only
have
>>22 joules?
This pretty much sums up my frustration also. From all my research I think
that a supply that delivers around 30 joules to each strobe is going to be
pretty good....especially compared with Aeroflash which is 1/3 that amount
of energy (side note: does anyone know how the actual brightness in
effective candle power relates to the energy delivered to a strobe in
joules???). If you ever find out whether the 44 joule combined energy from
the Whelen system is divided up by the number of strobes you are running,
or if you can actually get that for each strobe, let me know....
>>Either way the heavy price of the Whelens would seem to have some value
in
>>the extra punch. I live near a small airport and I have noticed that
small
>>aircraft have varrying levels of brightness in their strobes. Some are
>>noticably brighter than others. Airliners are extremely bright.
I'm still looking at a couple systems which *might* provide something close
to Whelen (say 30 joules per strobe) at a similar weight and power demand
but lower PRICE. One is a Galls system (the T-GR075) which is a
quad-flash, 75 watt system drawing 7 amps and can fire 4 strobes for $199.
This is half the price of the Whelen power supply that fires 3 strobes.
What I don't know yet is how many joules it delivers to each strobe....if
it's an efficient supply like Whelen's or Kuntzleman's, the power it is
using suggests that it should be delivering at least that much energy
(30-plus joules). If it's like Aeroflash's supply, it could be down around
10-15 joules, which is still an outstanding deal in my opinion but not the
ultimate in brightness.
ISS also sells several systems that look promising. The info I have on
them shows some quad-flash multiple strobe systems putting out around 20
joules. I'm trying to figure out if they have anything closer to 30
joules. There's info in the archives (search ISSPRO) from a lister named
Kevin who has been flying with such a system for several years. He says it
was $179 for a supply similar in size/weight to Whelen that drives four
strobes at 30 joules EACH, has quad flash pattern, hi/lo power option, etc.
If they still sell a system like this for under $200, it's a no-brainer for
me that this is what I'll use.
>>Aeroflash (ACS p371) would appear to be around 1/3 the price but only 10
>>joules per light. The confusing bit here is that each strobe takes 2.0
amps
>>where the Whelen wingtip power supplies take only 1.7 amps. How could
they
>>be so much brighter?
If Dick Kuntzleman's tests are correct, it sounds like Aeroflash is very
inefficient, since the Kuntzleman supply puts out 14 joules on 2 amps and
the Aeroflash drivers put out 11.6 joules at 4 amps. Go figure. Maybe
there's some misleading or confusing information here, but that's what I've
seen so far.
>>Is there new technology in the works? Is there any news on LED's or some
>>thing else new?
The only alternative to traditional strobes that I've found is a system
using flashing halogens as a replacement for strobes on school buses and
emergency vehicles, however it was bigger, heavier, and over $1000. If you
discover something new and revolutionary, don't hesitate to share the info.
>>If any one knows of any corrections or additions to this subject please
step
>>in. It would be good to put together a list of the available strobes with
>>their prices, weights, joules and current draws.
I agree. I sent an e-mail to Kitplanes Magazine a while back suggesting
this as a good subject for research and an article. I'd do it myself if I
could get my hands on the various strobe systems and some test equipment to
measure brightness but it's out of my budget range to do that level of
research for my own airplane.
>>Regards,
>>Norman Hunger
>>RV6A Delta BC
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A....strobes...**....**....**....**....**....**....**....**....**....
**....**....**....!!
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Strobe Power Supplies |
I don't have it in front of me but I recall seeing the output in Whelen's
documentation. It may even be in the ACS catalog. The joules per flash per
strobe differs if you use syncronized or alternating flashes. I think you
get 22 when sync'd and 30+ alternating but my memory is fuzzy on the exact
numbers.
Regards,
Greg Young (Houston - DWH)
RV-6 N6GY systems & wiring
This pretty much sums up my frustration also. From all my research I think
that a supply that delivers around 30 joules to each strobe is going to be
pretty good....especially compared with Aeroflash which is 1/3 that amount
of energy (side note: does anyone know how the actual brightness in
effective candle power relates to the energy delivered to a strobe in
joules???). If you ever find out whether the 44 joule combined energy from
the Whelen system is divided up by the number of strobes you are running,
or if you can actually get that for each strobe, let me know....
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
I know this is sort of late notice, but, to those in the So. California
area, I'll be heading out tomorrow to the Long Beach area. I'll have
some time on my hands during the day next Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday if
anyone wants to entertain a visit to look at their project or, even better,
wants a co-pilot for a while. I'm always looking to take pictures and see
new ideas.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
Subject: | Re: PTT switch wire run |
Hi Gar,
A grommet?, or failing that some carefully applied silicone could get you
there.
jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: Gar & Jan Pessel <pessel(at)ptialaska.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 10:59 AM
Subject: RV-List: PTT switch wire run
>
> I am planning to put PTT switches in both sticks in my RV6. Where do
folks
> generally run the wires out of the stick? I am inclined to drill a hole
> near the center of rotation for the stick, but this would require a
bushing.
> The smallest bushings I have require a 3/8 inch hole, which seems like a
> large hole in the stick. Any suggestions? Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, AK
> (preparing to install the engine next week)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
Subject: | Re: bulkhead fitting drill size |
Hi Robert,
For through hull fitting holes; the Unibit tool set is what works for me
most of the time.
Close with the hoses is good, Just remember to leave room for the wrenches
at assembly time.
jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Dickson <bubba(at)coastalnet.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 11:06 AM
Subject: RV-List: bulkhead fitting drill size
>
> Can someone tell me where to find the appropriate drill size for an
AN832-4D
> bulkhead union? Also, how far apart should the fittings be on the f-6122?
I
> assume pretty close to lessen the chance of the hoses rubbing on the
angles.
>
> thanks
> Robert Dickson
> Fayetteville NC
> RV-6A, brakes
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Rod end bearings |
From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
11/01/2000 04:26:10 PM
I was just cruising the NTSB database as I often do when things are slow
and I ran cross an RV-4 crash that happened back in April of this year.
Apparently an RV-4 belonging to Ray Smith of Orangevale, Ca. was flying
along and the pilot noticed that he had completely lost all fore and aft
stick control. Fortunately he was able to make a relatively safe off field
landing using elevator trim.
I have noticed that there have been both fatal and nonfatal RVs accidents
that have occurred in severe clear conditions where they were just cruising
along and bang their gone. The post crash analysis shows that they appear
to be in great shape accept for the fact that engine is embedded in the
soil in an approximate 20-degree down pitch attitude with no evidence of
any ground slide.
The question I put to the list is, what is the BEST way to safety the rod
end bearings that are on the elevator push rod ( assuming that this is the
weakest link ) so that this won't happen again.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( cowl and systems check out )
O-360 Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
Hello Listers,
I am laying out the position for the fresh air vents.
Is there a measurement that will get the fresh air vent hole centered on the
cowling top and bottom parting line.
My guess is that the differences from one RV to another could vary slightly.
My 6A wants to know.
Jim in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | clayfly(at)libertybay.com |
Subject: | RV Hanger Talk - Contribution |
Hi folks,
My contribution to the list went in today. The list has saved my bacon time and
time again as I've run up against puzzling questions. It's like walking into
a hanger full of pilots with RVs in various stages of construction (or finished).
What an awesome base of knowledge this list provides. Thanks to all of
you for sharing your ideas and thanks to Matt for making magic with the bits
and bytes.
Clay Smith, RV-4, 25 hours
Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: putting screws in platenuts |
I have been running a tap through these. Is this something I should
stop.
Earl RV4
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
>
> Larry Hawkins wrote:
> >
> >
> > I bought an RV-4 project with wings and tail already complete. Working on
> > the fuse now. My question: is it always difficult to put the screws in the
> > platenuts? I am installing the F-419 forward top skin on the -4, and some
> > of the screws just won't screw all the way into the platenut, it gets so
> > tight that I strip out the screw driver slot. What am I doing wrong? any
> > comments or suggestions would be appreciated.
> > Larry Hawkins RV-4 Farmington NM
> >
>
> Larry, get some Boelube, a dry lubricate available from several sources
> including Cleaveland Aircraft Tools. Drag the threads of the screw
> across the Boelube and the screws will go into the plate nuts with no
> difficulty.
>
> No, the lube will not diminish the locking ability of the plate nuts.
>
> By the way, Boelube works great on cowl hinge pins as well!
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
> "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Strobe Power Supplies |
> I don't have it in front of me but I recall seeing the output in Whelen's
> documentation
From http://www.vargaair.com/store/pages/58.html
Whelen Engineering is proud to have pioneered and introduced the NEW
CometFlash, CF, a major advancement in the field of Safety Lighting. By
pulsing the flash tube four times in rapid succession, the "on-time" of the
strobe is increased from 2/1000 of a second to 4/10 of a second. This
increases your airplane's visibility. The development of the CometFlash
reflects Whelen's dedication to safety.
Model HTS,CF
The HDA,CF is the finest power supply system available. It has the capacity
for simultaneous flashing, alternate flashing or both.
A TWO LIGHT SYSTEM ALTERNATE FLASHING, produces a combined total of 44
joules to each light.
A TWO LIGHT SYSTEM SIMULTANEOUS FLASHING, produces a combined total of 22
joules to each light.
A THREE LIGHT SYSTEM produces a combined total of 22 joules to each
simultaneous light alternating with a third light with a combined total of
44 joules.
$371
Model HTS,CF
The HTS,CF produces an accumulated 34 joules of Model HDA,CF energy. It can
be equipped to flash simultaneously with up to 5 other HTS,CF power supplies
by connecting an 18 gauge wire between the synchronization mechanisms in
each power supply. An 18 gauge low voltage wire supplies power to each HTS
power supply.
$304
Model HT,DF
Whelen's most compact, single-source power supply produces 12 joules of
energy. The system is available with a mounting plate that can directly
replace factory installed systems on S/E Cessnas, S/E Aero Commanders and
S/E Grumman Americans.
$234
Ross Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | PTT switch wire run |
I drilled mine just below the grip. This made for a long run along the
stick before turning back away though. My thinking is that the greatest
bending moment occurs at the center of rotation and I wasn't too comfortable
drilling the stick at or near that point.
The wire leading from the grip is double insulated and the movement (between
the stick and the penetrating wire) is nil. I just elongated and smoothed
the edges of the hole in the stick and ran the wire through, then secured it
to the stick.
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ ~50-hrs
Pearland, Texas
>
> I am planning to put PTT switches in both sticks in my RV6. Where do
folks
> generally run the wires out of the stick? I am inclined to drill a hole
> near the center of rotation for the stick, but this would require a
bushing.
> The smallest bushings I have require a 3/8 inch hole, which seems like a
> large hole in the stick. Any suggestions? Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, AK
> (preparing to install the engine next week)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: PTT switch wire run |
>
> >
> > I am planning to put PTT switches in both sticks in my RV6. Where
> do
> folks
> > generally run the wires out of the stick? I am inclined to drill a
> hole
> > near the center of rotation for the stick, but this would require a
> bushing.
> > The smallest bushings I have require a 3/8 inch hole, which seems
> like a
> > large hole in the stick. Any suggestions? Gar Pessel, Fairbanks,
> AK
> > (preparing to install the engine next week)
> >
I ran mine straight out the bottom between the bearings. I did go out
and purchase DMM (Digital MultiMeter) test lead wire. (Cut from a
spool at the local DOW electronics store. This wire has many fine
strands of wire with a very thick, VERY flexible insulation. Right
below the switch I used a two pin "Molex" connector and then used
regular 22 AWG wire all the way to the radio.
Works great. No problems with wiring in 37 months and 720+ flying
hours. Wish I could say the same about Ford Thunderbird's and their
insurance company.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
720+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
From homework help to love advice, Yahoo! Experts has your answer.
http://experts.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Ski Racks-idea |
--- pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> For an idea start with a single pressure recovery wheel fairing from
> Vans
> or Sam James (Sam's are a bit bigger) Simply use the front of the
> fairing
> for the nose of your Ski-tube and the rear of the fairing for the
> rear of
> the Ski-tube. Knowing Vans designs, you will probably gain some speed
> &
> need to repitch your prop for more bite......
My ski rack is behind the baggage compartment and it has flown from
SoCAL to Lake Tahoe and back without any problems. Was the first time
I hit SEVERE TURBULANCE also. "G" meter read +5.5 and -2.
Allen Tolle and Tracy Saylor both have ski racks behind the baggage
compartments in their RV-6s. They are the two that have gone before me
and it worked for them.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
720+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
From homework help to love advice, Yahoo! Experts has your answer.
http://experts.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Rod end bearings |
In a message dated 11/1/00 5:32:14 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com writes:
> The question I put to the list is, what is the BEST way to safety the rod
> end bearings that are on the elevator push rod ( assuming that this is the
> weakest link ) so that this won't happen again.
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8A ( cowl and systems check out )
> O-360 Sensenich 85
> N89JA reserved
Jim and others,
What I did was make my control rods as long as possible, leaving maybe 1/8"
at one end for adjusting one end shorter. This means you've gotta size the
control rods as you rig the controls.
If you make the control rods as long as possible, and minimize the possible
adjustment, the rod end bearings can't back out once installed. Why, you ask?
The only way the bearing is going to back out is if the rod spins in one
direction enough revolutions to back off of one bearing. If the rod somehow
comes loose, and begins to spin loose on one end, it will tighten on the
other end, until the end that is tightening bottoms out. So, if that end
bottoms out after only 1/8" or so, the other end can't back out.
Can't visualize it? Try this:
Take a control rod, hold on to one bearing, and have someone else hold the
other bearing. Then spin the pushrod. The rod will only spin until it
bottoms out on one end. If you minimize or eliminate the distance until the
bearing bottoms out, you'll never lose a bearing.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | Re: Strobe Power Supplies |
Mark,
Whelen has an online and pdf catalog. Click on aviation from the link you
listed. The power supply in Van's catalog is a HDA,CF which draws 7 amps. If
you hook it up to wingtip strobes it'll provide 42 joules to each,
alternating. It flashes at about 50/min. If you hook it up to three strobes,
it'll hit the wingtips with 21 joules each, simultaniously, and hit the tail
with 42 joules. If you want everything as bright as possible, you could hook
it up to alternate the wingtips and get a single power supply for the tail.
Ed Holyoke
RV-6 tail nearly complete
Quickbuild Dec/Jan
N86ED reserved
czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I've been trying to figure out what strobe system I want to use on my RV.
> The archives seem to have more questions than answers. There's a number
> of systems on the market for aviation and non-aviation use, but many of
> them don't have good specs for comparison.
>
> I have a combination tail nav/strobe light that I was given and would
> like to get a single power supply that will drive 3 strobes (tail and
> both wingtips). Whelen has one that Vans sells (around $400 IIRC). I
> found a supply on Whelen's website (not designed for aircraft) called
> model SPS-660 at http://www.whelen.com/vpps26c.htm that drives up to 6
> strobes with either Cometflash or Doubleflash patterns for $267. It's
> rated 60 watts and on their spec page it says energy is 11/5/5/5 joules
> (typ). I assume this is the joules for each of the 4 flashes in the
> Cometflash pattern although I'm not sure about this....and have no way of
> comparing it to the aviation system Vans sells. Flash rate is 140 per
> min....is this too fast?
>
> The archives contain posts about Galls and ISSPRO systems that use a
> single power supply to drive 4 strobes but I haven't found specs on these
> either.
>
> If anyone has found something that will work for 3 bulbs, and has specs,
> let me know.
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> |
>The pod could be shaped in two ways. One, symetrically and
aerodynamically for
>minimum drag, or two as an airfoil to build some extra lift to compensate
for
>the weight of the pod. As a complete amatuer in this type of thing, I
tend to
>favor aerodynamically (not as an airfoil) to minimize stresses on the
mounting
>brackets. Having a single bracket fail with this thing hanging in the
breeze
>could definitely ruin one's flight.
As another complete amatuer, it seems to me that an airfoil shape
will be more likely to cause trim problems. Most airfoils cause nose down
moments, if the pod was too big you could run out of elevator authority.
Don't know enough to reccomend a minimum drag shape that will hold skis.
For having a single bracket fail, looking at bomb racks in museams,
there is only one mount holding the weight, with other points just keeping
it from swinging. So if the mount fails, the pod would simply drop away
from the plane. (see bad ascii art:)
plane
---+------++-------+-----
| || |
/========++=========\
< pod >
\===================/
The + symbols indicate an actual link, such as a bolt holding the
pod, the others merely push on the top of the pod, holding it in place.
The drag from the pod will cause a nose down moment, how much is too much?
For myself, I don't ski, but I do hunt. I'm trying to figure out how to
secure my shotgun or rifle in the cabin so they don't come loose in a
crash. May be the only RV with a gun rack :)
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
President and Founder Friends of P-Chan
RV-8 80091 Re-doing horizontal stab.
1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pro-seal questions!! |
Just thought I'd let you know. That if your leaking
air and you can feel it you will leak gasoline in that
area. However you are right that the gasket should not
need any proseal other than maybe a small bead on the
outside of the cover plate. (see Eustice Boways
e-mail)
Glenn WIlliams
--- RV8DRIVER(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> After tank construction, I installed the cover
> plates with just the cork
> composition gasket, no sealer of any kind. The
> assembly was air-tested at
> 2psi (enough to slightly bulge the bottom of the
> tank between the ribs) over
> night with out loss of pressure. Since air will leak
> from a joint that
> gasoline won't due to the difference in molecular
> size, I'm confident in
> believing that no sealer is necessary. Andy Johnson,
> fuselage
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
From homework help to love advice, Yahoo! Experts has your answer.
http://experts.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Rod end bearings |
related to this....
I took a suggestion from the List and bolted the two halves of my elevator
horns together. With this arrangment, if the control tube fails, the two
elevators can be controlled with the trim.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: PTT switch wire run |
-----Original Message-----
From: Gar & Jan Pessel <pessel(at)ptialaska.net>
Date: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 1:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: PTT switch wire run
>
>I am planning to put PTT switches in both sticks in my RV6. Where do folks
>generally run the wires out of the stick? I am inclined to drill a hole
>near the center of rotation for the stick, but this would require a
bushing.
>The smallest bushings I have require a 3/8 inch hole, which seems like a
>large hole in the stick. Any suggestions? Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, AK
>(preparing to install the engine next week)
>
1) Obtain some Mate 'n Lock connectors and crimping tool from Terminal Town.
Use two pin connectors. Then when you remove the sticks (you did make the
pilot's stick easily removable with a sleeve, right?) for crawling under the
panel the PTT wires aren't in the way.
2) Drill a 3/16 hole and get some different sizes of poly and rubber tubing.
Run AWG 22 Tefzel wire. Slit a 3/4 inch length the tubing and use it for a
bushing. Lots of places need bushings and tie-wrapped slit tubing works
well.
Also do consider putting the copilot PTT on the panel. Then the
passenger/non-piloting member can handle communications without touching the
stick -- important in an RV due to very sensitive controls.
Dennis Persyk N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 2.7 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: putting screws in platenuts |
I believe that by running a tap through platenuts you loose the self locking
feature of the nut. Some sort of lube on the threads (I use BoeLube) makes them
go
in much easier. Stops stripping of screw heads also
Gary Zilik
>
>
> I have been running a tap through these. Is this something I should
> stop.
> Earl RV4
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Rod end bearings |
Jim,
IMHO the absolute best way is to use a castelated nut and a cotter pin for
flight controls. On helicopters where everything in the world moves and
vibrates, that is the way ALL controls are installed. I figure that if they
work for those washing machines of the air they are good for planes. I have
almost 500 hours test flying choppers by the way and trying to make them
break. I guess I wasn't bold enough and managed to make it here.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
>From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Rod end bearings
>Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 16:26:28 -0600 11/01/2000 04:26:10 PM
>
>
>I was just cruising the NTSB database as I often do when things are slow
>and I ran cross an RV-4 crash that happened back in April of this year.
>Apparently an RV-4 belonging to Ray Smith of Orangevale, Ca. was flying
>along and the pilot noticed that he had completely lost all fore and aft
>stick control. Fortunately he was able to make a relatively safe off field
>landing using elevator trim.
>
>I have noticed that there have been both fatal and nonfatal RVs accidents
>that have occurred in severe clear conditions where they were just cruising
>along and bang their gone. The post crash analysis shows that they appear
>to be in great shape accept for the fact that engine is embedded in the
>soil in an approximate 20-degree down pitch attitude with no evidence of
>any ground slide.
>
>The question I put to the list is, what is the BEST way to safety the rod
>end bearings that are on the elevator push rod ( assuming that this is the
>weakest link ) so that this won't happen again.
>
>- Jim Andrews
>RV-8A ( cowl and systems check out )
>O-360 Sensenich 85
>N89JA reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: putting screws in platenuts |
Earl,
STOP THAT. No, really, you are removing a lot of the locking capabilities
of the nutplate by doing that.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
>From: EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: putting screws in platenuts
>Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2000 17:22:26 -0500
>
>
>I have been running a tap through these. Is this something I should
>stop.
>Earl RV4
>
>Sam Buchanan wrote:
> >
> >
> > Larry Hawkins wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > I bought an RV-4 project with wings and tail already complete. Working
>on
> > > the fuse now. My question: is it always difficult to put the screws in
>the
> > > platenuts? I am installing the F-419 forward top skin on the -4, and
>some
> > > of the screws just won't screw all the way into the platenut, it gets
>so
> > > tight that I strip out the screw driver slot. What am I doing wrong?
>any
> > > comments or suggestions would be appreciated.
> > > Larry Hawkins RV-4 Farmington NM
> > >
> >
> > Larry, get some Boelube, a dry lubricate available from several sources
> > including Cleaveland Aircraft Tools. Drag the threads of the screw
> > across the Boelube and the screws will go into the plate nuts with no
> > difficulty.
> >
> > No, the lube will not diminish the locking ability of the plate nuts.
> >
> > By the way, Boelube works great on cowl hinge pins as well!
> >
> > Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
> > "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Japundza <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
Date: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 1:10 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Insurance
>
>I just got insurance on my bird last week from Scott Sky Smith. $1462
>(AIG) $60,000 hull, $100 deductibles. He's in the yeller pages.
>
>Bob Japundza
>RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 53 hours
>
I also got mine from AIG. Don't forget to get your "necessary crew member"
as a named pilot on the policy so said member can perform essential duties
during the flyoff period, and of course, thereafter. The requirements for
pilots covered by AIG ( and all other carriers) for experimentals are MUCH
more stringent than certificated planes. On my C172 anyone current that I
deem fit can fly the plane and full insurance applies -- not so for the RVs!
Dennis Persyk N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 2.7 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Brian,
Good thinking but for one little thing. Single point load connections are
only for the military. For us civilians, we are supposed to attach
something of this natural with backups so that if any one pint breaks it
won't come off. Even though we operate Experimentals and can pretty much do
as we please, us FAA types won't like it and persuade you to have at least
two attaching points. There are actually several safety issues here that I
could bring up but don't want to bore you.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
Das Fed
>From: Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Ski Racks
>Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 16:30:57 -0700 (MST)
>
>
> >The pod could be shaped in two ways. One, symetrically and
>aerodynamically for
> >minimum drag, or two as an airfoil to build some extra lift to compensate
>for
> >the weight of the pod. As a complete amatuer in this type of thing, I
>tend to
> >favor aerodynamically (not as an airfoil) to minimize stresses on the
>mounting
> >brackets. Having a single bracket fail with this thing hanging in the
>breeze
> >could definitely ruin one's flight.
>
> As another complete amatuer, it seems to me that an airfoil shape
>will be more likely to cause trim problems. Most airfoils cause nose down
>moments, if the pod was too big you could run out of elevator authority.
>Don't know enough to reccomend a minimum drag shape that will hold skis.
>
> For having a single bracket fail, looking at bomb racks in museams,
>there is only one mount holding the weight, with other points just keeping
>it from swinging. So if the mount fails, the pod would simply drop away
>from the plane. (see bad ascii art:)
>
> plane
>---+------++-------+-----
> | || |
> /========++=========\
>< pod >
> \===================/
>
> The + symbols indicate an actual link, such as a bolt holding the
>pod, the others merely push on the top of the pod, holding it in place.
>The drag from the pod will cause a nose down moment, how much is too much?
>
> For myself, I don't ski, but I do hunt. I'm trying to figure out how to
>secure my shotgun or rifle in the cabin so they don't come loose in a
>crash. May be the only RV with a gun rack :)
>
> Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
> President and Founder Friends of P-Chan
> RV-8 80091 Re-doing horizontal stab.
> 1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> |
>Good thinking but for one little thing. Single point load connections
are
>only for the military. For us civilians, we are supposed to attach
>something of this natural with backups so that if any one pint breaks it
>won't come off. Even though we operate Experimentals and can pretty much
do
>as we please, us FAA types won't like it and persuade you to have at
least
>two attaching points. There are actually several safety issues here that
I
>could bring up but don't want to bore you.
I guess civlians are supposed to minimize stuff falling off the plane.
:) You could use two points that were close together, still using the
pushing type thing to keep it from swinging. With mine, I am trying to
work with internal storage anyway.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
President and Founder Friends of P-Chan
RV-8 80091 Redoing horiz. stab
1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
Subject: | Preparation of wing ribs |
I recently followed the 'paranoia' thread with interest and agree that there
are many cases that I wonder if what I build wil be safe. I particulary
remember calling Van's once with a qualiity question when Tom answered
"You're only building an airplane!". :)
Anyway...
I am currently at the stage where I'm preparing all the wing ribs. The
manual explains to use a scotchbrite wheel in a diegrinder to smooth/debur
the lightning holes. I haven't been able to find a small enough wheel for
this so I have been smoothing the holes 'manually' with a scotchbrite pad. I
hope this will do. What I'm more worried about though are all the edges on
the small tabs that are cut out in the leading edge of the front ribs. I
can't get between them but they look fairly good just the way they are. I
hope this isn't asking for cracks.
Any suggestions?
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Griffin" <skydog-8(at)home.com> |
Subject: | putting screws in platenuts |
It's completely OK to run a tap through your nutplates, as long as you drill
a small hole sideways through the end of the screws for a cotter pin.
Serously, don't do that. When you do, that negates the locking feature. Use
some form of dry lubricant.
Randy Griffin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mike Robertson
Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 6:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: putting screws in platenuts
>I have been running a tap through these. Is this something I should
>stop.
>Earl RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
Subject: | Re: putting screws in platenuts |
Here's an even simpler solution. Go to the local hdwe store and get a
toilet boil wax ring. Dip the screws in the wax before the first insertion
and they will then go in and out just fine.
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
> I have been running a tap through these. Is this something I should
> stop.
> Earl RV4
> > >
> >
> > Larry, get some Boelube, a dry lubricate available from several sources
> > including Cleaveland Aircraft Tools. Drag the threads of the screw
> > across the Boelube and the screws will go into the plate nuts with no
> > difficulty.
> >
> > No, the lube will not diminish the locking ability of the plate nuts.
> >
> > By the way, Boelube works great on cowl hinge pins as well!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David & Betty Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Preparation of wing ribs |
Hi Are,
Check out Cleaveland's website: http://www.cleavelandtool.com/ They have
pictures of what you are looking for, 1 inch diameter scotchbright wheels and
the mandrels to hold them. (Everybody sells them, I know Cleveland has a
picture you can look at).
Dave
RV6A, wings
Are Barstad wrote:
>
> I recently followed the 'paranoia' thread with interest and agree that there
> are many cases that I wonder if what I build wil be safe. I particulary
> remember calling Van's once with a qualiity question when Tom answered
> "You're only building an airplane!". :)
>
> Anyway...
>
> I am currently at the stage where I'm preparing all the wing ribs. The
> manual explains to use a scotchbrite wheel in a diegrinder to smooth/debur
> the lightning holes. I haven't been able to find a small enough wheel for
> this so I have been smoothing the holes 'manually' with a scotchbrite pad. I
> hope this will do. What I'm more worried about though are all the edges on
> the small tabs that are cut out in the leading edge of the front ribs. I
> can't get between them but they look fairly good just the way they are. I
> hope this isn't asking for cracks.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mark Phillips" <mphill(at)fgi.net> |
Subject: | Re: Preparation of wing ribs |
Are,I bought the little scotchbrite wheel from averys and installed it on
the die grinder,worked well for me
----- Original Message -----
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 7:39 PM
Subject: RV-List: Preparation of wing ribs
>
> I recently followed the 'paranoia' thread with interest and agree that
there
> are many cases that I wonder if what I build wil be safe. I particulary
> remember calling Van's once with a qualiity question when Tom answered
> "You're only building an airplane!". :)
>
> Anyway...
>
> I am currently at the stage where I'm preparing all the wing ribs. The
> manual explains to use a scotchbrite wheel in a diegrinder to smooth/debur
> the lightning holes. I haven't been able to find a small enough wheel for
> this so I have been smoothing the holes 'manually' with a scotchbrite pad.
I
> hope this will do. What I'm more worried about though are all the edges on
> the small tabs that are cut out in the leading edge of the front ribs. I
> can't get between them but they look fairly good just the way they are. I
> hope this isn't asking for cracks.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob DiMeo - Oracle <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au> |
Subject: | Preparation of wing ribs |
Are,
You don't have to get anal about deburring. I used 200 grit wet-or-dry to
smooth those tabs. A single thickness should be able to get in the spaces.
I also used it on the holes that I couldn't get with my 2" scotch brite
wheel. A good swipe or two is all that's needed. If you think you're going
to cut yourself on one of the edges, you should smooth it out a little more,
otherwise, it'll be fine.
Remember; you're only building an airplane! ( I think I saw this in another
mail :
) )
Bob
RV8 #423 fuselage on order
> ----------
> From: Are Barstad
> Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2000 11:39 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Preparation of wing ribs
>
>
> I recently followed the 'paranoia' thread with interest and agree that
> there
> are many cases that I wonder if what I build wil be safe. I particulary
> remember calling Van's once with a qualiity question when Tom answered
> "You're only building an airplane!". :)
>
> Anyway...
>
> I am currently at the stage where I'm preparing all the wing ribs. The
> manual explains to use a scotchbrite wheel in a diegrinder to smooth/debur
> the lightning holes. I haven't been able to find a small enough wheel for
> this so I have been smoothing the holes 'manually' with a scotchbrite pad.
> I
> hope this will do. What I'm more worried about though are all the edges on
> the small tabs that are cut out in the leading edge of the front ribs. I
> can't get between them but they look fairly good just the way they are. I
> hope this isn't asking for cracks.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
Subject: | TOO MUCH FOR ONE MAN!!!!!!! |
Well I have finally come to the conclusion that this fund raising work is
just too much for one man. I have enlisted the help of all people, Eric
Henson, to assist me in driving the message home that Matte DESERVES your
contribution. I mean Matte has worked tirelessly for you in Livermore and
all he asks for is your voluntary contribution in November to keep him
there fighting for you! Protecting YOU from big mistakes on your project.
Yes that's right, BIG MISTAKES ! And we all know how those Big Mistakes can
run roughshod over us common builders! We have no defense from Big
Mistakes. But Matte will fight for US! He will be there for us to say "NO"
to Big Mistakes!
(Sorry, got a little sidetracked there.)
I have enjoyed many of Erics' slightly sarcastic posts to the list in the
past and I hope you have too. I especially like the "Rah the Sun god" post
last March when people were leaving the party ......er... I mean list,
because of mixing building and religion, which as you all know is in the
list constitution (FAQs) that church and List are to be kept
separate. (And if you didn't know, you know now!)
So as Eric and I hit the campaign trail to garner contributions for Matte,
please bare with us as we attempt to humor you into parting with a few
lousy dollars. We won't be using any "fuzzy math" but I hope to make enough
unrealistic and outrageous promises that you will smile when you type in
your credit card number at:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
Or when you make a contribution by check (please send US Mail) to:
List Contribution
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
So cast your contribution to the RV-List and Matte early and often. Let's
be a player!
AL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
Subject: | TOO MUCH FOR ONE MAN!!!!!!! |
Well I have finally come to the conclusion that this fund raising work is
just too much for one man. I have enlisted the help of all people, Eric
Henson, to assist me in driving the message home that Matte DESERVES your
contribution. I mean Matte has worked tirelessly for you in Livermore and
all he asks for is your voluntary contribution in November to keep him
there fighting for you! Protecting YOU from big mistakes on your project.
Yes that's right, BIG MISTAKES ! And we all know how those Big Mistakes can
run roughshod over us common builders! We have no defense from Big
Mistakes. But Matte will fight for US! He will be there for us to say "NO"
to Big Mistakes!
(Sorry, got a little sidetracked there.)
I have enjoyed many of Erics' slightly sarcastic posts to the list in the
past and I hope you have too. I especially like the "Rah the Sun god" post
last March when people were leaving the party ......er... I mean list,
because of mixing building and religion, which as you all know is in the
list constitution (FAQs) that church and List are to be kept
separate. (And if you didn't know, you know now!)
So as Eric and I hit the campaign trail to garner contributions for Matte,
please bare with us as we attempt to humor you into parting with a few
lousy dollars. We won't be using any "fuzzy math" but I hope to make enough
unrealistic and outrageous promises that you will smile when you type in
your credit card number at:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
Or when you make a contribution by check (please send US Mail) to:
List Contribution
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
So cast your contribution to the RV-List and Matte early and often. Let's
be a player!
AL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: putting screws in platenuts |
In my humble opinion one should use the tap judiciously.
I have had a batch of platenuts in which almost none of the screws even
wanted to start. I found that as long as the tap does not go through the
platenut, but cleans the start of the thread in the platenut that there
is plenty clamping force.
It's like everything else, don't overdo it.
If the screw goes too heavy it will snap off. clean the thread.
If the screw goes to lightly, by all means gently squeeze the end of the
nut till you feel sufficient friction.
as always, your mileage may vary
Gert
Randy Griffin wrote:
>
>
> It's completely OK to run a tap through your nutplates, as long as you drill
> a small hole sideways through the end of the screws for a cotter pin.
> Serously, don't do that. When you do, that negates the locking feature. Use
> some form of dry lubricant.
>
> Randy Griffin
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mike Robertson
> Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 6:12 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: putting screws in platenuts
>
> >I have been running a tap through these. Is this something I should
> >stop.
> >Earl RV4
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
>
>A few years ago I mentioned a similar ski rack idea to someone at Van's. I
>think it might have been Bill. Anyway, he had CG concerns about placing
>objects aft of the baggage compartment. His recommendation instead was to get
>a large piece of PVC tubing, close off the ends with something resembling a
>spinner and attach it externally to the belly of the plane, sort of like a
>drop tank.
>
>I like this idea, but have been thinking about ways to do it better. For
>example, rather than some ugly and heavy piece of PVC tubing, I am thinking
>about making a nice aerodynamically shaped custom pod from composites. This
>could hang by two simple brackets attached to the fuselage floor angles so it
>could be easily attached or removed when you want to use it. It would mount
>forward enough to not be affected by the heat of the exhaust blast, and can be
>long enough so as not to scrape the ground during landing. Tail draggers might
>have a problem with this, but nose wheel folks should be able to get it long
>enough for skiis with sufficient clearance.
>
>What I'm wondering is how this might affect in-flight handling of the plane.
>I've heard military AWACs pilots who fly with that huge radar disc on top of
>their planes saying that they don't even know it's there.
>
Any pod large enough to be useful will probably have enough side area
to affect things. Having extra side area ahead of the CG will tend
to cancel out some of the side area of the vertical tail, roughly
speaking. So, you might end up with a bit less yaw stability, a bit
different dutch roll, more sideslip available with full rudder, and
degraded spin characteristics. You would want to do a careful, full
flight test program. You might need to add some sort of dorsal or
ventral fin to increase the side area aft.
You may find that the drag from the pod causes a larger decrease in
cruise speed than you are willing to put up with. If you need to
stick some of your luggage outside the aircraft, you are probably a
good candidate for the new four seater, whenever Van comes out with
it.
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "alain nantel" <alain_nantel(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Magnito and Ignition Switch Question |
>When I brought my freshly overhauled engine home and unwrapped it, the
>first
>thing I noticed was the impulse coupling magnito was on the right side
>instead of the normal left side. I called the mechanic who rebuilt the
>engine and he told me that it doesn't matter which side the impulse
>coupling
>is installed.
>
>Now here is my problem: I have an ACS ignition switch and the normal
>routine
>is to connect the left mag to the left terminal and the right mag to the
>right terminal. The instructions also tell you to use a jumper between
>right
>magnito connector and connector adjacent to right connector when the left
>mag
>has a impulse coupling.
>
>Now, must I switch left and right magnito wires on the ignition switch so
>that the enginge will start on the right magnito instead of the left?
>Also,
>should I use the jumper?
>
>Many thanks if you can answer this one.
>
Hi
First thing, why did he install the mag on the right side?
I think he probably made a mistake and won't fess up to it, so if you can,
switch it to the left side.
Second, the switch. The jumper is installed so that the right magneto is
shorted to ground to prevent it from firing (normally at 25 degrees BTDC)on
start up. If it did you could damage the engine because of the kick back
that would occur(the engine would try to run backwards) .
The impulse coupling's job is two fold, it retards the spark to top dead
center (TDC) or slightly after and it will increase the speed of the magnet
so that a strong spark is provided to the spark plugs.
Hope this helps
Alain_Nantel(at)hotmail.com
RV-6 C-GGRS
90% done 90% to go
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: PTT switch wire run |
What I did was to drill a small hole ( can't rmember what size) and
purchased an assortment of small small rubber gasket that fit in the hole .I
tested it on part of the stick I cut off. The stick boot covered it up as it
was just about even with the floor and ran to the side of the plane. Also
used a plug from terminal town inside the stick for easy removal. Worked for
me. Terry E.Cole N468TC 165hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: PTT switch wire run |
Just happen to have a couple two or three small grommets left over from my
plane.Let me know where to send them (Off list) and ill put them in the mail.
Terry E. Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: TOO MUCH FOR ONE MAN!!!!!!! |
In a message dated 11/1/00 7:12:26 PM Pacific Standard Time,
prober(at)iwaynet.net writes:
<< Well, I have finally come to the conclusion that this fund raising work is
just too much for one man. I have enlisted the help of all people, Eric
Henson, to assist me in driving the message home that Matte DESERVES your
contribution. I mean Matte has worked tirelessly for you in Livermore and
all he asks for is your voluntary contribution in November to keep him
there fighting for you! Protecting YOU from big mistakes on your project.
Yes, that's right, BIG MISTAKES ! And we all know how those Big Mistakes can
run roughshod over us common builders! We have no defense from Big
Mistakes. But Matte will fight for US! He will be there for us to say "NO"
to Big Mistakes! >>
Okay Al, so why are you all of a sudden misspelling our list host's first
name? Too many Proseal fumes??? Fix your spell checker, man.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: fresh air vents |
In a message dated 11/1/00 2:33:05 PM Pacific Standard Time,
jjewell(at)okanagan.net writes:
<< I am laying out the position for the fresh air vents.
Is there a measurement that will get the fresh air vent hole centered on the
cowling top and bottom parting line. >>
You probably don't want this anyway, because the parting line will inevitably
leak hot air and it will stream in thru the NACA vents. During summer at
lower altitudes you will be stacking this hot air upon the already warm air
coming in the fresh air vents. In my experience it can raise the air temp by
around 8 degrees C. If I were to do it again, I would raise the vents as
high as I could.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Lkyswede(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Strobe Power Supplies |
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
Subject: | Re: So. Cal visit |
Mike,
I am sure that Apple Valley is too far away. 2.5 to 3 hours drive north on
HWY 15. Anyway, if can get here the welcome mat is out.
As we are no flying, Jack and I can't fly and get you.
Tom Gummo
Apple VAlley, CA
HR-II, getting closer
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Nellis <mnellis(at)emailusa.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 12:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: So. Cal visit
>
> I know this is sort of late notice, but, to those in the So. California
> area, I'll be heading out tomorrow to the Long Beach area. I'll have
> some time on my hands during the day next Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday if
> anyone wants to entertain a visit to look at their project or, even
better,
> wants a co-pilot for a while. I'm always looking to take pictures and
see
> new ideas.
>
> Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
> Plainfield, IL
> http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Lkyswede(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Strobe Power Supplies |
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Magnito and ignition switch problem - AGAIN. |
Thanks for the comments on my problem, but I am still confused. Let me
further describe my engine mags. As I stated before, the engine came with
two rebuilt mags. The one with the impulse coupling on the right side and
the mag on the left side contained a device on the rear of the mag with two
wires protruding. This really confused me. Evidently, the overhaul shop had
these two mags in their possession and overhauled them for my engine.
When I inquired about this left mag device with the two wires protruding, a
knowledgeable person said that Bendix Mag Co. calls this device "shower of
sparks". I then called the mechanic back and he informed me if I don't want
to use the "shower of sparks", which I don't have a clue how it works, just
clip the wires and use the impulse coupling on the right mag.
Any more help on this?
Thanks a million - Tom Benton RV3B SE Florida Do not
archive.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
Subject: | Thanksgiving, the FADEC |
Listers--
First, do the right thing by Matt.
Then, go to
http://www.fadec.com
and get those deposits ready.
Boyd
N600SS
225 hrs (54 weeks)
SW FL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net |
Charlie,
Can you help Tom?
Peter
>
> Thanks for the comments on my problem, but I am still confused. Let me
> further describe my engine mags. As I stated before, the engine came with
> two rebuilt mags. The one with the impulse coupling on the right side and
> the mag on the left side contained a device on the rear of the mag with two
> wires protruding. This really confused me. Evidently, the overhaul shop had
> these two mags in their possession and overhauled them for my engine.
>
> When I inquired about this left mag device with the two wires protruding, a
> knowledgeable person said that Bendix Mag Co. calls this device "shower of
> sparks". I then called the mechanic back and he informed me if I don't want
> to use the "shower of sparks", which I don't have a clue how it works, just
> clip the wires and use the impulse coupling on the right mag.
>
> Any more help on this?
>
> Thanks a million - Tom Benton RV3B SE Florida Do not
> archive.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>** --------- End Original Message ----------- **
>
Download the Jurassic Park Browser at http://www.jurassicpark.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
Listers,
I'm planning on taking the week of 11/18 to 11/25 off and fly to Florida,
where I'll stay with my folks. I'm hoping that the excellent weather will
afford me the opportunity to visit other RVer's or builders during the week.
Perhaps you locals can suggest a good place to fly into. For you builders
out there, speak up, here's a chance for a ride in a -6A. If you respond,
I'll meet up with you on your home turf.
While I'm in Florida, I'll be based at Sabastian (X26). With Key West
ONLY 1.5 Hours away, the rest of Florida is not all that far away...
Fred Stucklen
N925RV (1650 hrs/7 Yrs)
E. Windsor, CT 06088
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Tom Benton/Mags |
11/02/2000 08:34:04 AM
Somebody is out of touch here. A shower of sparks mag needs a (external)
buzz box to operate the mag.......hence the wires.......Give the mechanic
another chance and ask what are you to do with the Buzz box.(in relation to
the clipped wire from the mag). Depending on his answer I would be ready to
change mechanics
plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net@matronics.com on 11/02/2000 07:40:26 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Tom Benton/Mags
Charlie,
Can you help Tom?
Peter
>
> Thanks for the comments on my problem, but I am still confused. Let me
> further describe my engine mags. As I stated before, the engine came
with
> two rebuilt mags. The one with the impulse coupling on the right side
and
> the mag on the left side contained a device on the rear of the mag with
two
> wires protruding. This really confused me. Evidently, the overhaul shop
had
> these two mags in their possession and overhauled them for my engine.
>
> When I inquired about this left mag device with the two wires protruding,
a
> knowledgeable person said that Bendix Mag Co. calls this device "shower
of
> sparks". I then called the mechanic back and he informed me if I don't
want
> to use the "shower of sparks", which I don't have a clue how it works,
just
> clip the wires and use the impulse coupling on the right mag.
>
> Any more help on this?
>
> Thanks a million - Tom Benton RV3B SE Florida Do
not
> archive.
>
>
>** --------- End Original Message ----------- **
>
Download the Jurassic Park Browser at http://www.jurassicpark.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Rod end bearings |
11/02/2000 08:36:03 AM
---------------
Can you briefly outline the method of coupling these two elevator halves
together. This may(help/assist) solve the rod-end-edge-clearance problem
some of us have with the bottom horn bolt hole being mighty close the edge
of the horn
"Ross Mickey" (at)matronics.com on 11/01/2000 06:41:33
PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rod end bearings
related to this....
I took a suggestion from the List and bolted the two halves of my elevator
horns together. With this arrangment, if the control tube fails, the two
elevators can be controlled with the trim.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Rod end bearings |
11/02/2000 08:40:19 AM
Can you briefly outline the method of coupling these two elevator halves
together. This may(help/assist) solve the rod-end-edge-clearance problem
some of us have with the bottom horn bolt hole being mighty close the edge
of the horn
"Ross Mickey" (at)matronics.com on 11/01/2000 06:41:33
PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rod end bearings
related to this....
I took a suggestion from the List and bolted the two halves of my elevator
horns together. With this arrangment, if the control tube fails, the two
elevators can be controlled with the trim.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
Subject: | Re: PTT switch wire run |
I drilled a small hole (less than 1/4") in the side of the stick just above
the bend. I then used a small rubber grommet. For wire, I used the
5-conductor wire from my MAC system. It is 26 gauge and covered with a
tough covering that is very flexible. The suggestion about putting the
push-to-talk switch for the passenger on the panel rather than the stick is
a very good one. That's one of my "do overs" when I get the time.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 Indianapolis (93 hours)
----- Original Message -----
From: Gar & Jan Pessel <pessel(at)ptialaska.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 1:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: PTT switch wire run
>
> I am planning to put PTT switches in both sticks in my RV6. Where do
folks
> generally run the wires out of the stick? I am inclined to drill a hole
> near the center of rotation for the stick, but this would require a
bushing.
> The smallest bushings I have require a 3/8 inch hole, which seems like a
> large hole in the stick. Any suggestions? Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, AK
> (preparing to install the engine next week)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
Subject: | Re: fresh air vents |
I don't have the exact dimension, but if you place it just above the
horizontal rib above the rudder pedal attach points, it will be very close
to center. Be advised that if your paint scheme includes a stripe along the
joint line of your cowling, it will be easier to paint if the vent is either
above or below the line. Trying to get the right "line perspective" over
and through the vent opening is a pain. Ask me how I know.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 Indianapolis (93 hours)
----- Original Message -----
From: jim jewell <jjewell(at)okanagan.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 5:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: fresh air vents
>
>
> Hello Listers,
>
>
> I am laying out the position for the fresh air vents.
> Is there a measurement that will get the fresh air vent hole centered on
the
> cowling top and bottom parting line.
> My guess is that the differences from one RV to another could vary
slightly.
> My 6A wants to know.
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
Subject: | SPELLING was TOO MUCH FOR ONE MAN |
Gary,
As our resident spell checker I would have been most disappointed if you
hadn't caught that error. Let me explain why that "misspelling" occurred.
In our various focus group sessions around the country to determine how
best to target our contributors it was pointed out that we seemed to post
our appeals in a willy-nilly fashion. That is, without any reason. So it
was determined that we can get an "extra" post in if we were to make an
obvious spelling error in our early posts and someone such as yourself were
to correct us. This would give us the excuse to talk about the RV-List
Fundraiser in an extra post that would have a "reason" for being posted.
The important thing in this extra post is that we remind everyone that this
is the month to get out and contribute!
Thats right, time to do your part in this voluntary campaign for funds to
insure the continued smooth operation of the RV-List. It's your chance to
really prove that you would voluntarily pay for services that you received
without being "taxed" to insure they are funded. It seems that day in and
day out we are manipulated into thinking what someone else wants us to
think or believe. On the RV-List, there is always the opportunity to voice
your opinion without the least fear of being flamed.....(cough,...
choke,.......gag..........) Well you get to voice your opinion anyway. SO
come on and join the wining team and contribute today to the RV-List
Fundraiser. (Are you feeling manipulated yet?)
To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard,
please go to the following URL and follow the simple instructions:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to:
List Contribution
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
And Gary, thanks for giving me a reason to make this extra post.
(Of course there's always the possibility that I just flat out misspelled
Matt's name..................nahhhhhh.......Did I mention it's for the
children? ) AL
>Okay Al, so why are you all of a sudden misspelling our list host's first
>name? Too many Proseal fumes??? Fix your spell checker, man.
>
>-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
>vanremog(at)aol.com
>
>In a message dated 11/1/00 7:12:26 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>prober(at)iwaynet.net writes:
>
><< Well, I have finally come to the conclusion that this fund raising work is
> just too much for one man. I have enlisted the help of all people, Eric
> Henson, to assist me in driving the message home that Matte DESERVES your
> contribution. I mean Matte has worked tirelessly for you in Livermore and
> all he asks for is your voluntary contribution in November to keep him
> there fighting for you! Protecting YOU from big mistakes on your project.
> Yes, that's right, BIG MISTAKES ! And we all know how those Big Mistakes
> can
> run roughshod over us common builders! We have no defense from Big
> Mistakes. But Matte will fight for US! He will be there for us to say "NO"
> to Big Mistakes! >>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
Subject: | Re: putting screws in platenuts |
I had one of my cowl attach nutplates get cross threaded a little. I ran a
tap through it to help straighten it out. It totally removed the locking
capability of the nutplate. I ended up removing and replacing the nutplate.
It would seem to me that you should not be tapping the nutplates out, but
I'm sure there are others on the list that have been doing it for years. To
each their own, but I wouldn't do it.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 Indianapolis (93 hours)
----- Original Message -----
From: EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 5:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: putting screws in platenuts
>
> I have been running a tap through these. Is this something I should
> stop.
> Earl RV4
>
> Sam Buchanan wrote:
> >
> >
> > Larry Hawkins wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > I bought an RV-4 project with wings and tail already complete. Working
on
> > > the fuse now. My question: is it always difficult to put the screws in
the
> > > platenuts? I am installing the F-419 forward top skin on the -4, and
some
> > > of the screws just won't screw all the way into the platenut, it gets
so
> > > tight that I strip out the screw driver slot. What am I doing wrong?
any
> > > comments or suggestions would be appreciated.
> > > Larry Hawkins RV-4 Farmington NM
> > >
> >
> > Larry, get some Boelube, a dry lubricate available from several sources
> > including Cleaveland Aircraft Tools. Drag the threads of the screw
> > across the Boelube and the screws will go into the plate nuts with no
> > difficulty.
> >
> > No, the lube will not diminish the locking ability of the plate nuts.
> >
> > By the way, Boelube works great on cowl hinge pins as well!
> >
> > Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
> > "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: fresh air vents |
--- Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 11/1/00 2:33:05 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> jjewell(at)okanagan.net writes:
>
> > I am laying out the position for the fresh air vents.
> > Is there a measurement that will get the fresh air vent hole
> > centered on the cowling top and bottom parting line.
>
> You probably don't want this anyway, because the parting line will
> inevitably
> leak hot air and it will stream in thru the NACA vents.
Wow! This is a great tip!
How many people have had that same problem? I was going to mount the
air intakes there so as to secure the hinge pin in the vent - but not
at the expense of hot air in the intakes.
Can the cowl be sealed better to avoid this?
Confirmation?
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
From homework help to love advice, Yahoo! Experts has your answer.
http://experts.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: PTT switch wire run |
From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
11/02/2000 08:59:19 AM
>Also do consider putting the copilot PTT on the panel. Then the
>passenger/non-piloting member can handle communications without touching
the
>stick -- important in an RV due to very sensitive controls.
You might want to reconsider this and put one both on the panel AND on the
copilots stick.
I have flown a 6 from the right seat where the PTT is on the panel and BOY
is that inconvenient. Give your pilot passenger a break and don't make him
fish around on the panel for a push button while trying out your new
airplane for the first time.
Let's see, I'm flying twice as fast as I'm used to in a spam can so I have
half as much time to setup for this landing.
I'm looking for traffic...
I'm holding pattern altitude...
I've check the air speed...
I'm all set to do all that radio stuff but where in the heck is that DAMM
PTT!!!!!! :-)
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( fiberglass, why does it always have to be fiberglass!!! )
O-360 Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
Subject: | Re: Preparation of wing ribs |
Hi Are:
I use the "Royal Multi-Burr Deburing Tool" listed on page 43 off Avery's
2000 catalogue Part #22022 cost $12.50. With it any circle cut out can be
deburred in minutes. Avery's web site www.averytools.com.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay B.C.
-----Original Message-----
From: Are Barstad <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Date: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 5:58 PM
Subject: RV-List: Preparation of wing ribs
>
>I recently followed the 'paranoia' thread with interest and agree that
there
>are many cases that I wonder if what I build wil be safe. I particulary
>remember calling Van's once with a qualiity question when Tom answered
>"You're only building an airplane!". :)
>
>Anyway...
>
>I am currently at the stage where I'm preparing all the wing ribs. The
>manual explains to use a scotchbrite wheel in a diegrinder to smooth/debur
>the lightning holes. I haven't been able to find a small enough wheel for
>this so I have been smoothing the holes 'manually' with a scotchbrite pad.
I
>hope this will do. What I'm more worried about though are all the edges on
>the small tabs that are cut out in the leading edge of the front ribs. I
>can't get between them but they look fairly good just the way they are. I
>hope this isn't asking for cracks.
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>Are
>RV-8 Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: Shower of Sparks Ignition |
>> Thanks for the comments on my problem, but I am still confused. Let me
>> further describe my engine mags. As I stated before, the engine came with
>> two rebuilt mags. The one with the impulse coupling on the right side and
>> the mag on the left side contained a device on the rear of the mag with
two
>> wires protruding. This really confused me. Evidently, the overhaul
shop had
>> these two mags in their possession and overhauled them for my engine.
>>
>> When I inquired about this left mag device with the two wires
protruding, a
>> knowledgeable person said that Bendix Mag Co. calls this device "shower of
>> sparks". I then called the mechanic back and he informed me if I don't
want
>> to use the "shower of sparks", which I don't have a clue how it works,
just
>> clip the wires and use the impulse coupling on the right mag.
Shower of sparks is a special battery augmentation of spark energy
delivered by a magneto during cranking. I have a work in progress that
I'll share with those who are intrested in this topic. Download the
following:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/sparks2.pdf
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/sos_v1.pdf
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/sos_v1.pdf
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/sos_v1.pdf
Be advised there are figures called out in the text that
are not supplied and you'll have to do a little sorting
of the words against the three drawings that ARE supplied.
I don't have time to clean this article up right now but
it's good enough to share on a limited basis. I'm not
going to link it on the articles index until it's finished
so this e-mail message is the ONLY place you'll see 'em
listed.
In my not so humble opinion, S-o-S ignition is probably
the best thing that ever happend to a magneto. If you're
not ready to dump these 1940 devices in favor of 1990
devices, you can't do any better in terms of cranking
performance than to utilize shower-of-sparks augmentation.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different from )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: PTT switch wire run |
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote:
>
>
> >Also do consider putting the copilot PTT on the panel. Then the
> >passenger/non-piloting member can handle communications without touching
> the
> >stick -- important in an RV due to very sensitive controls.
>
> You might want to reconsider this and put one both on the panel AND on the
> copilots stick.
>
> I have flown a 6 from the right seat where the PTT is on the panel and BOY
> is that inconvenient. Give your pilot passenger a break and don't make him
> fish around on the panel for a push button while trying out your new
> airplane for the first time.
>
> Let's see, I'm flying twice as fast as I'm used to in a spam can so I have
> half as much time to setup for this landing.
> I'm looking for traffic...
> I'm holding pattern altitude...
> I've check the air speed...
> I'm all set to do all that radio stuff but where in the heck is that DAMM
> PTT!!!!!! :-)
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8A ( fiberglass, why does it always have to be fiberglass!!! )
> O-360 Sensenich 85
> N89JA reserved
The PTT for the passenger in my RV-6 is on the panel and it has proven
to be a very nice arrangement. I normally leave the passenger stick
stowed beside the seat since many of my passengers are non-pilots and it
makes getting into the plane a lot easier. No PTT in the stick means
there are no wires to mess with as the stick is installed/removed. The
stick is also my "crash axe".
The PTT is right in front of the passenger seat, clearly labeled, and
impossible to miss. Never have had any complaints, matter of fact, most
pilots are more than happy to let me do the radio work!
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http;//home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: fresh air vents |
> Wow! This is a great tip!
> How many people have had that same problem? I was going to mount the
> air intakes there so as to secure the hinge pin in the vent - but not
> at the expense of hot air in the intakes.
> Can the cowl be sealed better to avoid this?
> Confirmation?
If I have this problem it's not obvious. Never have checked it with a temp
sensor though. It seems to me the vertical hinge line could leak a lot too,
and it will of course all depend on how well your baffling seals, since the
hinge line is below the hot air section. At any rate the cool air seems to
flow fine in mine. Course I live in the NW where it isn't as much of an
issue.
I can say one thing -- I sure like having the hinge pin in the vent! Looks
way cleaner and doesn't require even a screwdriver to remove. But the main
thing is, I don't have to worry about it ever getting into the prop.
As for the dimensions -- don't have any on hand but it will vary from plane
to plane, and whether it's an S cowl or not. If it just HAS to be centered
you'll need to wait until you have your own cowl on before cutting the
vents. Otherwise someone else's dimensions should work well enough.
Keep in mind you have to leave room between the vent and the rudder pedal
bearing blocks to be able to get the blocks/bolts in and out.
I didn't think of doing this until after I'd installed the vents. I was
lucky -- they're not centered on the hinge line but close enough to be able
to make it work. Photo at http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/nacavent.jpg
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: PTT switch wire run |
11/02/2000 11:30:01 AM
On the other hand, the wiring nightmare with relays that is required with a
panel mount and two(pilot & co-pilot) grip mounted PTT's can be daunting.
Some folks like the KISS (Keep It Simple Solution) approach. With the
co-pilot grip mounted PTT you can't easily remove the stick ether .........
Jim does point to some good issues though..........Throw all the thoughts
on the table and decide for yourself........good luck.
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com@matronics.com on 11/02/2000 09:59:38 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: PTT switch wire run
>Also do consider putting the copilot PTT on the panel. Then the
>passenger/non-piloting member can handle communications without touching
the
>stick -- important in an RV due to very sensitive controls.
You might want to reconsider this and put one both on the panel AND on the
copilots stick.
I have flown a 6 from the right seat where the PTT is on the panel and BOY
is that inconvenient. Give your pilot passenger a break and don't make him
fish around on the panel for a push button while trying out your new
airplane for the first time.
Let's see, I'm flying twice as fast as I'm used to in a spam can so I have
half as much time to setup for this landing.
I'm looking for traffic...
I'm holding pattern altitude...
I've check the air speed...
I'm all set to do all that radio stuff but where in the heck is that DAMM
PTT!!!!!! :-)
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( fiberglass, why does it always have to be fiberglass!!! )
O-360 Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Pitot tube installation |
I was fitting the pitot tube last night. I'm using the Gretz Aero heated
pitot with static port. The instructions call for 8" of aluminum from the
tube for heat dissipation. Then you need a length of plastic so that the
tube is removable for maintenance. The it's back to aluminum for the run to
the wing root. My question is does the additional pressure loss from corners
and curves affect the accuracy of the pitot?
Look at this link for a picture of how I plan on installing.
http://home.earthlink.net/~ctpaulson/images/rv10-19/pitot1.htm
Craig Paulson
rv-6a, wings
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: fresh air vents |
11/02/2000 11:30:43 AM
Our RV-6 (and others) mounted the NASA vent below the parting line on the
cowl and back into the metal on the fuselage(five inches or so). We were
able to still pull the hinge pin backwards because the upper part of the
NASA vent (1/4 inch) from top of vent alligned with the hinge line of the
cowl. Worked out very nicely.
Mike Thompson (at)matronics.com on 11/02/2000 09:43:25
AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: fresh air vents
--- Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 11/1/00 2:33:05 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> jjewell(at)okanagan.net writes:
>
> > I am laying out the position for the fresh air vents.
> > Is there a measurement that will get the fresh air vent hole
> > centered on the cowling top and bottom parting line.
>
> You probably don't want this anyway, because the parting line will
> inevitably
> leak hot air and it will stream in thru the NACA vents.
Wow! This is a great tip!
How many people have had that same problem? I was going to mount the
air intakes there so as to secure the hinge pin in the vent - but not
at the expense of hot air in the intakes.
Can the cowl be sealed better to avoid this?
Confirmation?
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
From homework help to love advice, Yahoo! Experts has your answer.
http://experts.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Shower of Sparks Ignition |
The list of figures for Bob's article should read....
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/sparks2.pdf
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/sos_v1.pdf
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/sos_v2.pdf
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/sos_v3.pdf
Ross
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2000 8:03 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Shower of Sparks Ignition
>
> >> Thanks for the comments on my problem, but I am still confused. Let me
> >> further describe my engine mags. As I stated before, the engine came
with
> >> two rebuilt mags. The one with the impulse coupling on the right side
and
> >> the mag on the left side contained a device on the rear of the mag with
> two
> >> wires protruding. This really confused me. Evidently, the overhaul
> shop had
> >> these two mags in their possession and overhauled them for my engine.
> >>
> >> When I inquired about this left mag device with the two wires
> protruding, a
> >> knowledgeable person said that Bendix Mag Co. calls this device "shower
of
> >> sparks". I then called the mechanic back and he informed me if I don't
> want
> >> to use the "shower of sparks", which I don't have a clue how it works,
> just
> >> clip the wires and use the impulse coupling on the right mag.
>
>
> Shower of sparks is a special battery augmentation of spark energy
> delivered by a magneto during cranking. I have a work in progress that
> I'll share with those who are intrested in this topic. Download the
> following:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/sparks2.pdf
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/sos_v1.pdf
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/sos_v1.pdf
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/sos_v1.pdf
>
> Be advised there are figures called out in the text that
> are not supplied and you'll have to do a little sorting
> of the words against the three drawings that ARE supplied.
> I don't have time to clean this article up right now but
> it's good enough to share on a limited basis. I'm not
> going to link it on the articles index until it's finished
> so this e-mail message is the ONLY place you'll see 'em
> listed.
>
> In my not so humble opinion, S-o-S ignition is probably
> the best thing that ever happend to a magneto. If you're
> not ready to dump these 1940 devices in favor of 1990
> devices, you can't do any better in terms of cranking
> performance than to utilize shower-of-sparks augmentation.
>
>
> Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pitot tube installation |
<cpaulson@paulson-training.com>
>
> My question is does the additional pressure loss from corners
> and curves affect the accuracy of the pitot?
Craig,
We are talking about pressure here, not flow. It seems to me that the
curves and corners should have no affect on the pressure.
Nice photo.
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
Subject: | Re: Pitot tube installation |
Craig, I'll be mounting my Gertz heated pitot/static tube shortly so your
post and pictures interested me.
What rib station are you mounting the pitot at?
I confused on something. What is the purpose of the plastic tubing? If
it's just for removing purposes, why not just have one union between the
two aluminum pieces? Better yet, why not just mount it close enough to the
bell crank inspection panel to allow you to remove the union fitting at the
pitot tube itself and use no other union fittings.
Again, I haven't installed mine yet so maybe I'm missing something.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
>
> I was fitting the pitot tube last night. I'm using the Gretz Aero heated
> pitot with static port. The instructions call for 8" of aluminum from the
> tube for heat dissipation. Then you need a length of plastic so that the
> tube is removable for maintenance. The it's back to aluminum for the run
to
> the wing root. My question is does the additional pressure loss from
corners
> and curves affect the accuracy of the pitot?
>
> Look at this link for a picture of how I plan on installing.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~ctpaulson/images/rv10-19/pitot1.htm
>
>
> Craig Paulson
> rv-6a, wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
> I also got mine from AIG. Don't forget to get your "necessary crew
member"
> as a named pilot on the policy so said member can perform essential duties
> during the flyoff period, and of course, thereafter.
This is a good point. Some (most?) policies for experimentals allow for a
total of three "named pilots", without extra charge (probably depending on
whether they have comparable experience and time in type to you). Even if
you think you'd NEVER let anyone else fly your plane, it's not a bad idea to
put a couple of trusted RV pilot friends on there, just in case. You never
know, you may be in a pinch sometime and need someone to ferry your plane,
so why not have them already on the policy?
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Preparation of wing ribs |
Are,
Do you have a set of small jewelers files. I picked up a set for about
$5.00 just for this reason and have found them to be invaluable for a
multitude of stuff. The set has 8 different shaped files and take down the
edges much faster than anything else manual that I have found.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
>From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Preparation of wing ribs
>Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 20:39:08 -0500
>
>
>I recently followed the 'paranoia' thread with interest and agree that
>there
>are many cases that I wonder if what I build wil be safe. I particulary
>remember calling Van's once with a qualiity question when Tom answered
>"You're only building an airplane!". :)
>
>Anyway...
>
>I am currently at the stage where I'm preparing all the wing ribs. The
>manual explains to use a scotchbrite wheel in a diegrinder to smooth/debur
>the lightning holes. I haven't been able to find a small enough wheel for
>this so I have been smoothing the holes 'manually' with a scotchbrite pad.
>I
>hope this will do. What I'm more worried about though are all the edges on
>the small tabs that are cut out in the leading edge of the front ribs. I
>can't get between them but they look fairly good just the way they are. I
>hope this isn't asking for cracks.
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>Are
>RV-8 Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Preparation of wing ribs |
In a message dated 11/1/00 5:42:30 PM Pacific Standard Time,
abarstad(at)bconnex.net writes:
<< What I'm more worried about though are all the edges on the small tabs
that are cut out in the leading edge of the front ribs. I can't get between >>
Try a round needle file and a loosely folded sheet of 320 grit wet or dry.
Worked for me.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Preparation of wing ribs |
or / and a Dremel tool as they have tiny burrs.
> Do you have a set of small jewelers files.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
Waiting for weight & balance and the FAA inspector!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Rod end bearings |
I got the idea from searching the archives when I was worried about
mis-aligning the horns. Bob Skinner mentioned it. He said...."Drill on a
spacer block higher on the elevator horns when the elevators are in perfect
alignment and bolt the assembly together." That is what I did....I drilled
a #30 hole in one of the elevator horns about 1" above where the hole the
rod end bearing will go. I then made two spacer blocks out of scrap alum
bar stock and used a drill press to drill a #30 in one. I ran an old #30
drill through the hole in the horn and then the spacer to hold the spacer in
place. I aligned the elevators (using a digital level), placed the spacer
without the hole in the area of where the rod end bearing will go and
clamped the two horns together there. Now remove the old #30 drill and
drill through the hole and spacer to the other horn. Disassemble and
enlarge the holes for a AN3 bolt. Bolt together and proceed to install the
rod end bearing.
Ross
----- Original Message -----
From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2000 5:24 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rod end bearings
>
> ---------------
> Can you briefly outline the method of coupling these two elevator halves
> together. This may(help/assist) solve the rod-end-edge-clearance problem
> some of us have with the bottom horn bolt hole being mighty close the edge
> of the horn
>
>
> "Ross Mickey" (at)matronics.com on 11/01/2000 06:41:33
> PM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>
> To:
> cc:
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Rod end bearings
>
>
> related to this....
>
> I took a suggestion from the List and bolted the two halves of my elevator
> horns together. With this arrangment, if the control tube fails, the two
> elevators can be controlled with the trim.
>
> Ross
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Magnito and ignition switch problem - AGAIN. |
If, in fact, you do have an impulse coupleing then you don't need the shower
of sparks. You can use it if you want but it is not needed to start. You
can either clip the wires or buy little caps that cover the holes.
The shower of sparks option on those magnetos is a little internal vibrator
that more or less sents a continuous spark to the plugs during the starting
sequence. Again, you really don't need them if you have an impluse
coupling, especially if you use one of the newer lite-weight high torque
starters.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
>From: TMB1564(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Magnito and ignition switch problem - AGAIN.
>Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2000 06:31:01 EST
>
>
>Thanks for the comments on my problem, but I am still confused. Let me
>further describe my engine mags. As I stated before, the engine came with
>two rebuilt mags. The one with the impulse coupling on the right side and
>the mag on the left side contained a device on the rear of the mag with two
>wires protruding. This really confused me. Evidently, the overhaul shop
>had
>these two mags in their possession and overhauled them for my engine.
>
>When I inquired about this left mag device with the two wires protruding, a
>knowledgeable person said that Bendix Mag Co. calls this device "shower of
>sparks". I then called the mechanic back and he informed me if I don't want
>to use the "shower of sparks", which I don't have a clue how it works, just
>clip the wires and use the impulse coupling on the right mag.
>
>Any more help on this?
>
>Thanks a million - Tom Benton RV3B SE Florida Do not
>archive.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "<Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com> |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Thu,
02 Nov 2000 13:34:04.-0500(at)matronics.com
Subject: | ANNUAL CONTRIBUTION |
Howdy folks,
It seems our incumbent funds raiser, Al Mojzisik has tapped into the vast wealth
of talent I possess (endless running of the mouth) in order to scare up support
once again for this outstanding source of information that Matt so graciously
provides. Now if his heartfelt plea to support this list for the benefit of the
children does not spur you into action, maybe I can hit on the nerves of those
that don't have a passel of young-uns to feed and take to soccer.
The other night while working at Mason Dixon Engineering (my garage) I was once
again perplexed by what exactly Mr. Van was trying to tell me to do on sketch
number 42 (the big sketches not the ones in the book). After several minutes of
contemplating what I was supposed to do with that odd shaped piece of metal, and
contemplating how it is that someone would ever come to need a piece of metal
shaped in that particular contortion, I had to admit that I was once again
stumped. Now let me digress a little here, I've noticed that there are two
kinds of "stumped". There is the stumped that eventually comes to you, usually
in the middle of the first good nights sleep in a week. And then there is the
stumped that can only be found from others being stumped, like what size hammer
do you use to drill a number 40 hole.
So I called my local builders (the ones I don't owe money too) and was only able
to get a hold of a couple of them since several wives now hang the phone up at
the sound of my voice. It seems the only one that had ever run into this problem
was good ole Charlie Kuss. Charlie was a great help and was kind enough to point
out that the exact use for such a strangely contorted piece of aluminum was
clearly illustrated on drawing number 42, and that if I would bother to read the
manual that came with the kit then I might not have to disturb him right in the
middle of his pay-per-view Yanni concert.
After another hour of staring at, drawing is it 42?? I still could not make much
sense of what I was supposed to do, although a coffee stain commingled with a
rib drawing did take on the exact likeness of Janet Reno. So it was off to my
last hope; lets see what Matt's archive has to say.
So using the ultrafast search engine and remembering to select "RV-list" this
time, I put in my main problem, that being oddly shaped pieces of aluminum.
Well, 743 replies seem like a little too much for my short attention span
especially since most of them seemed to be heated arguments about how one should
prime odd pieces of aluminum. Next I just put in the part number and "hoo-boy"
up came a usable list of fellow head scratchers and just how this part had
affected their building experience. Since Matt has been doing this a while there
were early posts on choosing the appropriate location for mining bauxite for the
making of the part (-9 builders take notice), there were posts on how this part
should be converted to work with the slider, nose wheel, epoxy cowl mod. And
there were quite a few post where people were just plain confused but were
helped out by fellow builders that had once been confused themselves.
Well out I go into the engineering room again and hammer in hand was able to
successfully drill those holes into that odd shaped piece of aluminum that kind
of seemed to fit almost like it was made to go there.
I guess if there is a point to this story (hey, you were warned at the
beginning) it would have to be that I was a real lucky builder to have Matts
archive available to me. In all seriousness, its become a habit that when I go
to a new assembly, I carry the parts involved up to the office and do a search
on every part number. I then carry a stack of paper down to the garage with all
of the related posts printed out. I can assure you that this practice saves me
at least $50.00 in shipping alone each year since I do not have to order the
parts that I for sure would have thrown into the "aw-sh**" pile.
For this reason alone I owe Matt my support and would like to make a
suggestion to builders that have been at it a year. Think about how many parts
you have been able to get the low-down on before trying it out yourself. If you
feel that the list was a big help, throw some of that shipping money you didn't
have to spend Matts' way. It will just come back to you later.
Eric Henson
RV-6
To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard,
please go to the following URL and follow the simple instructions:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to:
List Contribution
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
Disclaimer: All references to local RV builders ie: Chas Kuss are purely
fictional and intended for the purpose of entertainment only. It is not the
intent of the author to disclose Charlie's musical taste or evening activities
(although we have some theories) nor to discredit the music of Yanni by implying
his works would be appreciated by any RV builders, or at least any that would
admit it.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: PTT switch wire run |
11/02/2000 01:51:55 PM
Also, the top of the passanger stick with a PTT on a friends RV-6 is
allways being keyed (by me and others) when we rest the map or maps on top
of the stick........seemingly minor but it happens scores of time on a
very long cross country.....
Sam Buchanan (at)matronics.com on 11/02/2000 11:18:35 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: PTT switch wire run
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote:
>
>
> >Also do consider putting the copilot PTT on the panel. Then the
> >passenger/non-piloting member can handle communications without touching
> the
> >stick -- important in an RV due to very sensitive controls.
>
> You might want to reconsider this and put one both on the panel AND on
the
> copilots stick.
>
> I have flown a 6 from the right seat where the PTT is on the panel and
BOY
> is that inconvenient. Give your pilot passenger a break and don't make
him
> fish around on the panel for a push button while trying out your new
> airplane for the first time.
>
> Let's see, I'm flying twice as fast as I'm used to in a spam can so I
have
> half as much time to setup for this landing.
> I'm looking for traffic...
> I'm holding pattern altitude...
> I've check the air speed...
> I'm all set to do all that radio stuff but where in the heck is that DAMM
> PTT!!!!!! :-)
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8A ( fiberglass, why does it always have to be fiberglass!!! )
> O-360 Sensenich 85
> N89JA reserved
The PTT for the passenger in my RV-6 is on the panel and it has proven
to be a very nice arrangement. I normally leave the passenger stick
stowed beside the seat since many of my passengers are non-pilots and it
makes getting into the plane a lot easier. No PTT in the stick means
there are no wires to mess with as the stick is installed/removed. The
stick is also my "crash axe".
The PTT is right in front of the passenger seat, clearly labeled, and
impossible to miss. Never have had any complaints, matter of fact, most
pilots are more than happy to let me do the radio work!
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http;//home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
I just found out that my computer was infected with the KaK Worm virus.
This virus spreads through email. Your computer may be infected. To find
out about this virus go to
http://www.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/wscript.kakworm.fix.html
I used their fixkak.exe but it didn't seem to work so I followed their
manual directions found here
http://service1.symantec.com/SUPPORT/nav.nsf/docid/2000020318071406
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
Subject: | Re: putting screws in platenuts |
Why not tap then use blue locktite or other appropriate thread-lock
compound? Also: sure wish I could find allen head screws (100 deg.
c'sunk) in stainless for my exterior screws- anyone seen any of these?
From the PossumWorks
Mark
Randy Griffin wrote:
>
It's completely OK to run a tap through your nutplates, as long as you
drill a small hole sideways through the end of the screws for a cotter
pin. Serously, don't do that. When you do, that negates the locking
feature. Use some form of dry lubricant.
>
> Randy Griffin
> >I have been running a tap through these. Is this something I should
> >stop.
> >Earl RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Subject: | Thanksgiving, the FADEC |
I don't know.... I could buy a lot of gas for $5000
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: bcbraem(at)home.com [mailto:bcbraem(at)home.com]
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2000 3:58 AM
To: rv-list
Subject: RV-List: Thanksgiving, the FADEC
First, do the right thing by Matt.
Then, go to
http://www.fadec.com
and get those deposits ready.
Boyd
N600SS
225 hrs (54 weeks)
SW FL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Extraction tool for Amp-Leaf Connectors |
A list server participant just sent me a picture of the connector used on
the back of his MicroMonitor to ask if we stock an extraction tool for
it. Actually, I have a tool . . . which I fabricated about 20 years ago.
You can see a picture of the tool along with instructions on its
fabrication and use at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/amplefxt.jpg
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different from )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Magnito and ignition switch problem - AGAIN. |
In a message dated 11/2/00 10:03:40 AM Pacific Standard Time,
mrobert569(at)hotmail.com writes:
<<
The shower of sparks option on those magnetos is a little internal vibrator
that more or less sents a continuous spark to the plugs during the starting
sequence. Again, you really don't need them if you have an impluse
coupling, especially if you use one of the newer lite-weight high torque
starters.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS >>
Mike I am going to have to disagree with you. The "Shower of Sparks"
ignition system uses an external box containing the vibrator coils. This
system uses two sets of points in ONE Mag only. The second of points
provides the spark retard needed for starting the engine. The other Mag and
the advance points are grounded during starting. This grounding happens in
which ever switch system a builder uses.
I am using two toggle switches. During the start sequence both switches up
results in the right Mag advance points being grounded, the left Mag retard
and advance points connected and start vibrator energized to fire the spark
plugs. The starter is also connected at this time. This wiring is shown in
the Aero Electric Connection.
By the way those connection's on the Mag cost $20 to $30 apiece. So don't go
clipping them off indiscriminately.
Cash Copeland
QB #60075
RV6 N46FC (Reserved)
Oakland, Ca
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Shower of Sparks (starting vibrator) |
So...what is the feeling of the group on the use of the shower of sparks
(starting vibrators)? Bob Nuckolls conclusion in his article is, "If it
were MY airplane and I had an opportunity to choose between impulse coupled
and SOS magneto, I'd readily prefer
the SOS system."
I am buying a new O-360 from Van's....mags are included. Aircraft Spruce
sells the starter vibrators for about $190. Then there is the Slickstart
which goes for about $300. Below is the rap on them.
So....comments.
Ross
9PT 6-A
___________________________
The FAA-PMA approved SlickSTART magneto booster system integrates solid
state electronics with conventional ignition hardware to deliver optimum
spark energy for improved engine starting under all operating conditions.
SlickSTART delivers over 400% more spark energy during start than
conventional impulse coupled or retard breaker systems. This added energy
enables the magnetos to fire partially fouled spark plugs, ignite less than
optimum fuel mixtures, improve hot engine restarts, and improve starting
performance during extreme cold weather operations.
SlickSTART can be installed with either impulse coupled or retard breaker
magnetos and can be used with either 12 volt or 24 volt electrical systems.
Fits all Slick impulse coupled and retard breaker 4200/6200 Series and
4300/6300 Series magnetos.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net |
Subject: | ANNUAL CONTRIBUTION |
OK!.. OK! Eric.
Your e-mail took up all the ram on my computer!
I'll contribute.
Peter Laurence
RV6A Wings
Download the Jurassic Park Browser at http://www.jurassicpark.com
________________________________________________________________________________
hey peter
isn't it about time to come back to tampa and check out my progress, i have
an engine hanging party this sunday, you guys are invited,
hows yours comming along?
take care
scott
tampa rv6a fiberglassing wheel pants
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Non-ratcheting Control Cable |
I used a non-ratcheting control cable for my parking brake which I now
realize was a mistake. The pull knob vibrates out about 3/4 inch in flight
and I am concerned that I may land with the parking brake on -- this will be
bad for steering at slow speeds when I begin to use the brakes as they will
not release. I have the brake release on my pre-takeoff checklist but not
the landing list and I'd rather not rely on a checklist for this operation.
Any proven methods of easily converting the cable to ratchet mode?
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 3.8 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Vacuum Regulator Adjustment |
Within the last couple of months there was a message describing which way to
turn the vacuum regulator to increase suction. I tried vacuum and regulator
and the combination on the search engine without finding it. Could the
poster please help me out again. My vacuum is 4.2 and I'd like it closer to
5.5
Thanks.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 3.8 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "alain nantel" <alain_nantel(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Magnito and ignition switch problem - AGAIN. |
The one with the impulse coupling on the right side and
>the mag on the left side contained a device on the rear of the mag with two
>wires protruding. This really confused me. Evidently, the overhaul shop
>had these two mags in their possession and overhauled them for my
>engine.When I inquired about this left mag device with the two wires
>protruding, a knowledgeable person said that Bendix Mag Co. calls this
>device "shower of>sparks". I then called the mechanic back and he informed
>me if I don't want to use the "shower of sparks", which I don't have a clue
>how it works, just clip the wires and use the impulse coupling on the right
>mag.
Hi again Tom
For the left one, what you have is a mag that has two sets of points inside,
one set is the primary which is used during normal engine operation
identified on the cover as "switch". The second one is the retard breaker
point which is used for start-up only. Those mags do not use an impulse
coupling since they get their high intensity spark (on start-up) from a
separate device called "shower of spark". This item get it's electrical
power from the aircraft battery and deliver a strong spark via the second
wire connection on the mag cover identified as "start".
So yes you could just leave that connection open and still use the mag in a
normal manner.
Finally for your switch connection you could make a small jumper (wire) from
the left connector to the terminal that would normally get the jumper plate.
Hope this helps a bit more,good luck!
Alain_Nantel(at)hotmail.com
RV-6 C-GGRS
90% done 90% to go
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | Re: Shower of Sparks (starting vibrator) |
Or put a lightspeed CDI ignition on one side and get a hotter spark and better
advance profile along with better economy and more power. You could keep the
mag you removed for when the other one fails.
Ed Holyoke
RV-6 tail nearly complete
Quickbuild Dec/Jan
N86ED reserved
Ross Mickey wrote:
>
> So...what is the feeling of the group on the use of the shower of sparks
> (starting vibrators)? Bob Nuckolls conclusion in his article is, "If it
> were MY airplane and I had an opportunity to choose between impulse coupled
> and SOS magneto, I'd readily prefer
> the SOS system."
>
> I am buying a new O-360 from Van's....mags are included. Aircraft Spruce
> sells the starter vibrators for about $190. Then there is the Slickstart
> which goes for about $300. Below is the rap on them.
>
> So....comments.
>
> Ross
> 9PT 6-A
>
> ___________________________
>
> The FAA-PMA approved SlickSTART magneto booster system integrates solid
> state electronics with conventional ignition hardware to deliver optimum
> spark energy for improved engine starting under all operating conditions.
> SlickSTART delivers over 400% more spark energy during start than
> conventional impulse coupled or retard breaker systems. This added energy
> enables the magnetos to fire partially fouled spark plugs, ignite less than
> optimum fuel mixtures, improve hot engine restarts, and improve starting
> performance during extreme cold weather operations.
>
> SlickSTART can be installed with either impulse coupled or retard breaker
> magnetos and can be used with either 12 volt or 24 volt electrical systems.
> Fits all Slick impulse coupled and retard breaker 4200/6200 Series and
> 4300/6300 Series magnetos.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Magnito and ignition switch problem - AGAIN. |
Cash,
I agree with what you say about the separate box. I was just attempting to
keep the explanation short. Maybe not a good idea. The bottom line was
that with the impulse coupling it is not a necessity to have the shower of
sparks. Also you can buy a screw-on cap without the wire for this. So the
best thing to do is just unscrew the cap with the pigtail and put a new cap
on.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
>From: JusCash(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Magnito and ignition switch problem - AGAIN.
>Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2000 16:08:15 EST
>
>
>In a message dated 11/2/00 10:03:40 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>mrobert569(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
><<
> The shower of sparks option on those magnetos is a little internal
>vibrator
> that more or less sents a continuous spark to the plugs during the
>starting
> sequence. Again, you really don't need them if you have an impluse
> coupling, especially if you use one of the newer lite-weight high torque
> starters.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A N809RS >>
>
>Mike I am going to have to disagree with you. The "Shower of Sparks"
>ignition system uses an external box containing the vibrator coils. This
>system uses two sets of points in ONE Mag only. The second of points
>provides the spark retard needed for starting the engine. The other Mag
>and
>the advance points are grounded during starting. This grounding happens in
>which ever switch system a builder uses.
>
>I am using two toggle switches. During the start sequence both switches up
>results in the right Mag advance points being grounded, the left Mag retard
>and advance points connected and start vibrator energized to fire the spark
>plugs. The starter is also connected at this time. This wiring is shown
>in
>the Aero Electric Connection.
>
>By the way those connection's on the Mag cost $20 to $30 apiece. So don't
>go
>clipping them off indiscriminately.
>
>Cash Copeland
>QB #60075
>RV6 N46FC (Reserved)
>Oakland, Ca
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kcskiflyer" <klwski1(at)pouch.com> |
I'm going to finnish the fiberglass on my RV-9A emp this weekend and was
wondering how I should close up the gap between the glass and the aluminum,
should I glass it, "bondo" it, or what? The fairings will not have to come
off ( no lights or antenni) whats the best looking way to do this. I've
painted many cars and several boats all with some body work involved so I'm
not afraid to make the whole thing smooth. I don't want to make it heavey
and slow and I wan't some of that RV speed out of this machine, any
sugestions would help.
Thanks
Ken
RV-9A
emp, wings Dec 10th
Lyc 0-290-D 0SMOH
Long Island NY
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
Subject: | Re: Vacuum Regulator Adjustment |
Dennis,
I have RAPCO KIT pump and regulator. Clockwise will increase the pressure.
I made a 1/4 turn at a time and waited a few flights before adjusting again
as the pressure fluctuated after adjustment.
Anh
-6
N985VU
Maryland
>
>Within the last couple of months there was a message describing which way to
>turn the vacuum regulator to increase suction. I tried vacuum and regulator
>and the combination on the search engine without finding it. Could the
>poster please help me out again. My vacuum is 4.2 and I'd like it closer to
>5.5
>Thanks.
>
>Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 3.8 hours
>Hampshire, IL C38
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)aa.net> |
Subject: | RV-8 project, all sheet metal done, plus IO-360 |
Here's a real good deal for somebody. We've traded for an RV-8 project,
but we'd really prefer a nosewheel so my wife (currently a student
pilot) can move up to the RV more easily. We'd like to sell the RV-8
project so we can build an RV-8A (we would consider a trade for an RV-6A).
The RV-8 has the sheet metal work beautifully done by Martin Sutter, who
has taught RV construction for Avery. Essentially all the sheet metal
work is done, whereas an out of the box QuickBuild requires you to build
the tail section, close up the wings, and do some fuselage work - and
that's already done on this plane. The engine installation, panel, and
canopy are yet to be done. This RV-8 also has electric trim, wiring and
lighting, rear rudder pedals, and some other goodies.
In addition to the airframe, we've also got for sale:
* IO-360-A3B6D first runout from a Mooney, including
* a brand new Ayars-Demuth prop
* some "as is" instruments from a Cessna 172
* some "as is" radios -- a set of Collins nav/comms, a Cessna nav/comm,
and a Northstar Loran.
But wait, there's still more! If we get in contact before November 8, we
can possibly deliver between the midwest and the northwest (no waiting
for a quickbuild kit!). Since we'll be on the road soon, best to reply
by phone, not email.
Ed Wischmeyer
425 269-9034 (Cindy's cell phone)
--
NOTE: 5% of messages sent to me don't make it, so use a return receipt to
insure delivery. The phone company system drops packets.
- - - - - - - -
Ed Wischmeyer
Web page: http://members.aa.net/~edwisch
Email: edwisch(at)alum.mit.edu
name="edwisch.vcf"
filename="edwisch.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Wischmeyer;Ed
tel;fax:425 898-9566
tel;home:425 898-9856
adr:;;;;;;
version:2.1
email;internet:edwisch(at)alum.mit.edu
fn:Ed Wischmeyer
end:vcard
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
Subject: | Who is Matt Dralle? (Part One) |
Fellow Listers..........we are now just in the beginning stages of the
millennium fund raiser for the RV-list. It just occurred to me that some of
you may not even know who Matt Dralle is. Like other major candidates have
done in the past, let me introduce you to Matt Dralle, the man from
Hope......uhh......I mean Livermore.
Matt was born Matte Dralle to his humble and loving parents Mr. and Mrs.
Dralle. They originally named him Matte but decided later to drop the "e"
on the end of his name. As caring as Matt's parents were, Mr. and Mrs.
Dralle still forgot to tell Al Mojzisik that they dropped the "e" at the
end of Matt's first name causing Mr. Mojzisik great embarrassment during a
fund raiser conducted for Matt much later in life around the turn of the
century. But I digress....... Matt's Mom and Dad noticed early on in
Matt's life that he was a "special" child. When other kids went out to play
with their balls ehhhh.......and bats, Matt would be busy with two tin
cans and a string trying to improve communications between the bases. You
see, Matt figured if the players had better communication between their
positions out on the field, the game could be played more efficiently and
the players would make fewer costly mistakes. Of course the other kids
didn't understand Matt's logic so they physically removed him from the
field. During one close game Matt's communication device got wrapped up in
the legs of a particularly large opposing player who chased Matt down and
kicked him so hard on the backside that Matts love for flying was born.
Upon landing, Matt's future was clear to him.
He had to find a way to get rid of the string between the cans.
So after inventing the 2-way battery operated Comm radio, Matt thought he
had solved the communication problems between bases. But
alas.............Matt realized too late that you can't key the mike (He
named it "Mike" after his best friend) with a glove on your hand or
conversely you can't catch a ball with a radio in your hand. (Just like
you can't build an RV with your head up your ahh....uhh...well never mind!)
Matt was crushed! He took his Comm radio's that he called IC-A22's and
started walking home. Being bored, Matt decided to take a short cut home
through Livermore Airport. As Matt walked past some of the hangers and the
tower, he noticed a lot of airplane guys. (He knew they were airplane guys
because they looked like they didn't have any money), anyway, these
airplane folks were yelling at each other with their hands cupped around
there mouths. The tower guys were yelling at the top of their lungs for
some guy in a Ford, Thunderbird to get off the ramp before he hits a plane.
They were also screaming the landing clearances to the planes as they flew
by the tower in low and slow flight. Matt saw this and looked down at his
hands holding the IC-A22's he had invented and had a really great
idea! But he soon realized it was totally unworkable. He knew airplane
guys couldn't be taught American Sign Language. Most of them had way too
many holes and scars in there hands from #40 drills and aluminum cuts. And
most of their hands were deformed from the excess use of Cleco pliers. So,
dejected once again, Matt handed his radios to a guy who worked for a
company called ICOM that made fertilizer and went home to tinker with his
new toy............a Commadore Computer!
And now a word from our sponsor..........................
To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard,
please go to the following URL and follow the simple instructions:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to:
List Contribution
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
I bet you think you know where this is going...........to be
continued.........AL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
Ross Mickey wrote:
> I just found out that my computer was infected with the KaK Worm virus.
> This virus spreads through email. Your computer may be infected.
Thanks for letting the List know, but I think it's extremely unlikely
that anyone else's computer is infected.
However, I believe that Matt's software strips out all attachments
anyway, so there shouldn't be any way for people to get infected via the
RV-list. [Matt, can you confirm that?]
What's more, the virus attachs itself as an attachment to outgoing
email. The attachment gets executed by Outlook Express when the mail is
read. So this virus can only infect machines where Outlook Express is
used to read email.
This security hole in Outlook Express was fixed last year -- I recommend
that everyone regularly runs MS Windows Automatic Update regularly. If
you've done that, then you're safe (at least, from this virus and others
like it).
What I'm saying here to RV-list members is "DON'T PANIC". Almost
certainly, you haven't been infected.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: putting screws in platenuts |
In a message dated 11/2/00 12:04:37 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ripsteel(at)edge.net writes:
<< Why not tap then use blue Loctite or other appropriate thread-lock
compound? Also: sure wish I could find Allen head screws (100 deg.
c'sunk) in stainless for my exterior screws- anyone seen any of these? >>
No. They don't exist. All are 82 degree ANSI or MS. Steve Barnard used
some beautiful tri-wing drive 8-32x1/2 100 degree countersunk screws to hold
his tanks on that he claimed were titanium. I don't know the MS number or
where he got them.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Shower of Sparks (starting vibrator) |
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
> Or put a lightspeed CDI ignition on one side
There is a significant difference in price,,,,$860 for Plasma Plus and $1075
for Plasma Plus II as compared with $190 for the starting vibrator.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
RV-List message posted by: "kcskiflyer"
> I'm going to finnish the fiberglass on my RV-9A emp this weekend and was
> wondering how I should close up the gap between the glass and the
aluminum,
> should I glass it, "bondo" it, or what? The fairings will not have to come
> off ( no lights or antenni) whats the best looking way to do this. I've
> painted many cars and several boats all with some body work involved so
I'm
> not afraid to make the whole thing smooth. I don't want to make it heavey
> and slow and I wan't some of that RV speed out of this machine, any
> sugestions would help.
Ken:
This topic was covered in the sixth issue (1999) of the RVATOR, including a
number
of pictures. It explained the whole process in very good detail.
Ernest Kells
RV-9A - Building Wings Planning: O-235/Wood Prop
Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario Email:
ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Non-ratcheting Control Cable |
In a message dated 11/2/00 4:22:03 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< I used a non-ratcheting control cable for my parking brake which I now
realize was a mistake. The pull knob vibrates out about 3/4 inch in flight
and I am concerned that I may land with the parking brake on -- this will be
bad for steering at slow speeds when I begin to use the brakes as they will
not release. I have the brake release on my pre-takeoff checklist but not
the landing list and I'd rather not rely on a checklist for this operation.
Any proven methods of easily converting the cable to ratchet mode? >>
I agree that you should definitely order the ratchet version for parking
brakes, oil cooler door and carb heat. If it's an ACS cable it may be
convertible. The ratchet versions merely have a cut in the mounting barrel
at the rear with a simple spring that bears against ridges in the shaft.
Pull the shaft far enough out to see if it has ridges near where the cable
attaches. If so, then you may be able to get the spring from ACS and modify
the mounting barrel to accept it. Check out other builders in your area to
see how the barrel gets slotted for the spring.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
Subject: | Buying experimental |
Can a Canadian import a completed experimental aircraft from the US?
If so what is it registered under?
Steve Hurlbut
shurlbut(at)island.net
RV-6 emp
C-FSND
Comox, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fiberglass tips |
Ken,
Two points on adding the fiberglass tips. I would screw them on with the
small #4 screws and nutplates rather than pop rivets and bondo. No so much
because of the weight, but the screws look more professional IMHO and will
look nicer longer. Also, the bondo will eventually crack along the joint
line and you will get a small line anyway. At this crack, the paint and
bondo can chip off. Also, the screws and nutplates are actually easier and
take less time to do. I pop riveted mine on and I wish I hadn't.
Second, if you want to close the gap, do the following. Mount all the
screws and nutplates. Lay ONE layer of duct tape over the aluminum making
sure to go over the edge and around the backside slightly. Mount the tip
and screw it down. Cover the screws. Force bondo/filler material of your
choice in the crack. Once hardened, sand with 80 grit sandpaper down to the
duct tape. Use care to not go through the tape but sand the surface down as
far as you can. Then remove the tip and tape. Finish sand the part and
slightly round the edge. I use 240 grit wet/dry. That should give you a
nice straight and even edge along the entire joint line.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 Indianapolis (93 hours)
----- Original Message -----
From: kcskiflyer <klwski1(at)pouch.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2000 8:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass tips
>
> I'm going to finnish the fiberglass on my RV-9A emp this weekend and was
> wondering how I should close up the gap between the glass and the
aluminum,
> should I glass it, "bondo" it, or what? The fairings will not have to come
> off ( no lights or antenni) whats the best looking way to do this. I've
> painted many cars and several boats all with some body work involved so
I'm
> not afraid to make the whole thing smooth. I don't want to make it heavey
> and slow and I wan't some of that RV speed out of this machine, any
> sugestions would help.
>
> Thanks
> Ken
> RV-9A
> emp, wings Dec 10th
> Lyc 0-290-D 0SMOH
> Long Island NY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chris Sheehan <ctsheehan(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Buying experimental |
Don't take this as gospel, but my understanding is that we can't import
from the U.S. to Canada due to our inspection requirements (which aren't
required in the U.S.).
Best to talk to the RAA or Transport to confirm.
Chris Sheehan
Mississauga, ON
Steve Hurlbut wrote:
>
>
> Can a Canadian import a completed experimental aircraft from the US?
> If so what is it registered under?
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> shurlbut(at)island.net
> RV-6 emp
> C-FSND
> Comox, BC, Canada
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Buying experimental |
> Can a Canadian import a completed experimental aircraft from the US?
> If so what is it registered under?
Steve, the following is a quote from page 9 of Section III of the RAA
Builders Manual. You probably should contact the RAA directly for an
important question like this one.
"At present, Canadian amateur-built aircraft have been accepted for sale in
the U.S, by the FAA. American semi-complete and complete amateur-built
aircraft cannot be bought and imported into Canada."
Ernest Kells
RV-9A - Building Wings, Planning: O-235 Wood Prop
SaultSte. Marie, Ontario
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)ticnet.com> |
Several responses speak highly of AIG. It should be noted that you must
select an agent first of all...he will get the prices from all the
underwriters such as AIG (only AVEMCO sells direct, I believe). And the
first agent you retain is it...subsequent quotes from the five or so
underwriters will not be forthcoming...you are frozen with the first
agent.
As mentioned, many agents are noted in the yellar pages...and a few have
been recommended here...so choose who you want for years to come!
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
-6A flying past 300 hours
jerryb wrote:
>
>
> Hello All,
> I just got a notice that my Insurance Co. is not gonna renew
> Ins. on
> experimentals.
> I need some advice and companies that insure RV's. Phone
> numbers would
> also be helpful.
> Thanks, JerryB
> RV6 N40JP
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
Subject: | Shower of Sparks |
Hi Folks,
For a lot less money, you could install any of the electronic ignition
systems now available to homebuilders. Not only do they deliver a hot spark
on startup, you can also use standard automotive plugs future maintenance
cost reductions. I've been running Jeff Rose's system for over a year now,
with automotive plugs, with no problems....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV (1650 hrs/7 Yrs)
E. Windsor, CT 06088
WK Email: stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com
Hm/Travel Email: wstucklen1(at)juno.com
___
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RV-List: Shower of Sparks (starting vibrator)
So...what is the feeling of the group on the use of the shower of
sparks
(starting vibrators)? Bob Nuckolls conclusion in his article is,
"If it
were MY airplane and I had an opportunity to choose between impulse
coupled
and SOS magneto, I'd readily prefer
the SOS system."
I am buying a new O-360 from Van's....mags are included. Aircraft
Spruce
sells the starter vibrators for about $190. Then there is the
Slickstart
which goes for about $300. Below is the rap on them.
So....comments.
Ross
9PT 6-A
___________________________
The FAA-PMA approved SlickSTART magneto booster system integrates
solid
state electronics with conventional ignition hardware to deliver
optimum
spark energy for improved engine starting under all operating
conditions.
SlickSTART delivers over 400% more spark energy during start than
conventional impulse coupled or retard breaker systems. This added
energy
enables the magnetos to fire partially fouled spark plugs, ignite
less than
optimum fuel mixtures, improve hot engine restarts, and improve
starting
performance during extreme cold weather operations.
SlickSTART can be installed with either impulse coupled or retard
breaker
magnetos and can be used with either 12 volt or 24 volt electrical
systems.
Fits all Slick impulse coupled and retard breaker 4200/6200 Series
and
4300/6300 Series magnetos.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 project, all sheet metal done, plus IO-360 |
Ed:
What are you asking for the RV8 project alone. No engine, etc.
Dave Aronson
Ed Wischmeyer wrote:
>
>
> Here's a real good deal for somebody. We've traded for an RV-8 project,
> but we'd really prefer a nosewheel so my wife (currently a student
> pilot) can move up to the RV more easily. We'd like to sell the RV-8
> project so we can build an RV-8A (we would consider a trade for an RV-6A).
>
> The RV-8 has the sheet metal work beautifully done by Martin Sutter, who
> has taught RV construction for Avery. Essentially all the sheet metal
> work is done, whereas an out of the box QuickBuild requires you to build
> the tail section, close up the wings, and do some fuselage work - and
> that's already done on this plane. The engine installation, panel, and
> canopy are yet to be done. This RV-8 also has electric trim, wiring and
> lighting, rear rudder pedals, and some other goodies.
>
> In addition to the airframe, we've also got for sale:
> * IO-360-A3B6D first runout from a Mooney, including
> * a brand new Ayars-Demuth prop
> * some "as is" instruments from a Cessna 172
> * some "as is" radios -- a set of Collins nav/comms, a Cessna nav/comm,
> and a Northstar Loran.
>
> But wait, there's still more! If we get in contact before November 8, we
> can possibly deliver between the midwest and the northwest (no waiting
> for a quickbuild kit!). Since we'll be on the road soon, best to reply
> by phone, not email.
>
> Ed Wischmeyer
> 425 269-9034 (Cindy's cell phone)
>
> --
>
> NOTE: 5% of messages sent to me don't make it, so use a return receipt to
> insure delivery. The phone company system drops packets.
>
> - - - - - - - -
>
> Ed Wischmeyer
> Web page: http://members.aa.net/~edwisch
> Email: edwisch(at)alum.mit.edu
> name="edwisch.vcf"
> filename="edwisch.vcf"
>
> begin:vcard
> n:Wischmeyer;Ed
> tel;fax:425 898-9566
> tel;home:425 898-9856
> adr:;;;;;;
> version:2.1
> email;internet:edwisch(at)alum.mit.edu
> fn:Ed Wischmeyer
> end:vcard
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fiberglass tips |
The Stribling's wrote:
>
> > I'am getting ready to mount my wing tips and want to use screws, what is
> the best way of attaching the nut plates to fiberglass tips
>
Cut a long skinny metal strip and use that as a backing plate with which to
attach the platenuts or rivets.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Fiberglass tips
Thread-Index: AcBFqjVDzLYXc+iyRVSK1vyG+DPGpAAADCPA
From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
I used #6 nutplates and stainless screws, and riveted the nutplates
right to the fiberglass tip. Fiberglass is strong stuff, and plenty of
meat is there to countersink for the #6 screws; there's no need for a
bonded aluminum strip to attach the nutplates to.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 53 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Fiberglass tips |
> I'm going to finnish the fiberglass on my RV-9A emp this weekend and was
> wondering how I should close up the gap between the glass and the
aluminum,
> should I glass it, "bondo" it, or what? The fairings will not have to come
> off ( no lights or antenni) whats the best looking way to do this. I've
> painted many cars and several boats all with some body work involved so
I'm
> not afraid to make the whole thing smooth. I don't want to make it heavey
> and slow and I wan't some of that RV speed out of this machine, any
> sugestions would help.
>
> Thanks
> Ken
> RV-9A
Ken,
This is an area of builder preference. Walk the flight light at any fly-in
with RVs and you will see tips both filled in and left "as-is". One thing
though, aircraft are subject to tremendous vibration and many (most?)
builders who opt to fair them in experience cracking at some point in the
future, especially if polyester bondo or equivalent is used.
So, as with many things in building these planes, it's your call.
Personally, I have not filled anything in because I think cracking looks
worse than the pop rivets, and I want to be able to find them should they
have to come off for any reason. To me, there is a certain functional
aesthetic to seeing the construction method as well.
FWIW,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, painting
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Non-ratcheting Control Cable |
If the shaft just behind the knob has ribs on it, then there should be a
slot on the housing designed to hold a wire clip that catches on the ribs.
You should be able to make a clip from piano wire or a paper clip or get one
off a worn out cable. If there is no slot or ribs, you could make them with
your Dremel tool.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) wiring & systems
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dennis Persyk
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2000 6:14 PM
Subject: RV-List: Non-ratcheting Control Cable
I used a non-ratcheting control cable for my parking brake which I now
realize was a mistake. The pull knob vibrates out about 3/4 inch in flight
and I am concerned that I may land with the parking brake on -- this will be
bad for steering at slow speeds when I begin to use the brakes as they will
not release. I have the brake release on my pre-takeoff checklist but not
the landing list and I'd rather not rely on a checklist for this operation.
Any proven methods of easily converting the cable to ratchet mode?
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 3.8 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Terminaltown(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List: Clamps |
homebuilt-list(at)matronics.com, lancair-list(at)matronics.com,
rocket-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com, zenith-list(at)matronics.com
In a message dated 11/2/00 10:49:29 PM Pacific Standard Time,
larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com writes:
<< The education continues. A couple of days ago, I went to the local Ace
Hardware Aircraft Supply, and bought a handful of clamps. I think they're
called "Adel Clamps," or some such. So, now that my money's safely spent,
tonight I read the new Nov. 2000 issue
of Custom Planes, the article has a key,
telling which code signifies what, and the properties of each. My shiny
new clamps are stamped " G10," which turns out to be "low carbon steel band,
with chloroprene cushion, good to 212 degrees F." 10 is the size in 16th's.
No - these aren't a "perfect 10." Well, the cushion is good, but the band
is not recommended for aircraft use. Wouldn't ya know it. >>
Hello Big Lar:
DG = Aluminum band, (212F) Chloroprene Cushion Chloroprene - Used in general
purpose areas where there is a possibilty of contaminated with petroleum
based hydraulic fluids and occasional fuel splash. Excellent ozone resistant.
Not resistant to phosphate-ester based fluids. Color of cushion is black
with a blue identifier marking. Do not use on titanium tubing. Also cushion
has a wegge to stop over tightening
We carry DG Adel Mil Spec clamps and they will fit your needs. They are at
http://www.terminaltown.com or click here Terminal Town's
Electrical Connectors Mil Spec Adel Clamps
Also Bob N. has a very good page of info on Adels at
http://www.aeroelectric/articles/adel.com or click here Adel Clamps
John @ Terminal Town
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | List Fund Raiser Continues... |
Hello Listers!
This is just a reminder that the Annual List Fund Raiser is currently
underway. Won't you make a Contribution today to support the continued
operation and upgrade of this valuable resource? Your Contribution can
be made via a Secure SSL Internet Transaction with your Visa or
MasterCard at the URL shown below or you may send it via US Mail to the
address also listed below.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
P.O. Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
Thank you for your support! Your generosity directly makes this List
possible.
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
So far, my experience with the Van's sponsered "VanGuard" has been good. I
have my project ins. with them as well as my renters ins. There is more info
on Van's website. I use to be with Avemco.
-Larry
> jerryb wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hello All,
> > I just got a notice that my Insurance Co. is not gonna renew
> > Ins. on
> > experimentals.
> > I need some advice and companies that insure RV's. Phone
> > numbers would
> > also be helpful.
> > Thanks, JerryB
> > RV6 N40JP
From homework help to love advice, Yahoo! Experts has your answer.
http://experts.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Aileron Gap Seal Clearance |
Yes, I've looked in the archives and there is still confusion. Several
archived messages indicate that there is a spec for this gap, but my
call to Van's last night says there is none. Mine are installed
*exactly* per plans on sheet 16 and I have, maybe, 1/16 inch without any
binding. There is nothing in the manual or plans about the gap.
My question is what gap are folks flying (not building) with? My guess
is that if it were a critical number, it would be noted in the manual
and on the drawing.
Chris Browne
-6A finish
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | To shim or not to shim, that is the question. |
From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
11/03/2000 02:31:02 PM
Doing that whole proseal, attach hinges, cowl thing this weekend and I
notice that the shims called out to shim the cowl hinges that attach to the
firewall are not really needed in most places. The fit is flat without the
shims. Am I missing something here? By not attaching the shims am I
setting myself up for heartache later after I have it all sealed and
riveted???
What say ye experienced RV-8(A) cowl fasteners.
Thx,
Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( sanding and more sanding )
O-360 Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Aileron Gap Seal Clearance |
11/03/2000 04:19:22 PM
The RV-4's here in south NJ all have 3/8th inch gap. The RV-6 in my hanger
has a fat 3/8th inch also..........Now I'am confused....situation normal.
Chris Browne (at)matronics.com on 11/03/2000 03:18:29
PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Aileron Gap Seal Clearance
Yes, I've looked in the archives and there is still confusion. Several
archived messages indicate that there is a spec for this gap, but my
call to Van's last night says there is none. Mine are installed
*exactly* per plans on sheet 16 and I have, maybe, 1/16 inch without any
binding. There is nothing in the manual or plans about the gap.
My question is what gap are folks flying (not building) with? My guess
is that if it were a critical number, it would be noted in the manual
and on the drawing.
Chris Browne
-6A finish
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
Also and most important make sure you use norton antivirus or something
similiar and keep it updated and then you won't have any problems like this.
One other thing. If you have a DSL or Cable modem please use a firewall.
thanks
chris wilcox
F1 rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
Subject: | Re: Aileron Gap Seal Clearance |
Chris--
There may be some confusion in terminology, here. The ailerons have a
"fairing" on the wing side of the aileron that roughly parallels the
curvature of the leading edge of the aileron. On the RV-6, the bottom of
the fairing gap is approx. 5/8" and the top of the gap is approx. 5/16"
with the aileron in trail position, according to the dimensions on
drawing 16 in my plans. The fairing gap changes quite a bit during max.
travel of the ailerons and this is part of the Frize design. These are
Frize ailerons and the gap is necessary for airflow between the bottom
wing surface and the top aileron surface. The slight constriction of
the fairing gap from bottom to top improves the pressure differential
over the top surface of the aileron.
This is NOT a gap seal and and any type of gap seal would detrimentally
affect the performance of the ailerons. Control surfaces that can use a
gap seal are: Vert. Stab. to rudder and Horizontal Stab. to elevators.
Some folks claim that you can use a gap seal on only one side of the
rudder or elevators because the purpose of the seal is primarily to
block the airflow in the gap between the fixed and moveable control
surfaces, which affects the pressure gradient, and only secondarily to
provide streamlining. The flaps are pretty well sealed as built, which
is why metal or low-friction tape should be used between the flap and
the wing top skin contact area.
>
>
> Yes, I've looked in the archives and there is still confusion. Several
> archived messages indicate that there is a spec for this gap, but my
> call to Van's last night says there is none. Mine are installed
> *exactly* per plans on sheet 16 and I have, maybe, 1/16 inch without any
> binding. There is nothing in the manual or plans about the gap.
>
> My question is what gap are folks flying (not building) with? My guess
> is that if it were a critical number, it would be noted in the manual
> and on the drawing.
>
> Chris Browne
> -6A finish
> Atlanta
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chuck Weyant <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
shannons ,
nightingalemichael ,
"eric.j.henson" , coglesby ,
curran , jkginth ,
mschrimmer , Kevin Shannon ,
Eddy Fernandez , Jim Streit ,
RV-List: RV-9A ,
Robert Watson ,
Russ Clifford
Bought a high time engine (O-320 E3D). I suspect the alternator that
came with it (frozen up and in need of rebuilding) is not the alternator
originally off it. I took the alternator in to have it rebuilt and the
technician verified that it was an aircraft alternator, or more
correctly, it is "set up for aircraft use". But the cooling veins would
be running backwards he said. The alternator is set up for clockwise
rotation and as we know, for aircraft use the rotation will be
counter-clockwise.
Seems to me I read that this is not a problem. Any or your thoughts
would be appreciated.
--
Regards,
Chuck Weyant
EMail Me: chuck(at)chuckdirect.com
WebSite: http://www.chuckdirect.com
Santa Maria, CA
805 347-8882
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
Chuck--
The alternator runs great in either direction. As long as the cooling
air tube is directed towards the middle of the alternator cooling vents
you should be doing just great--no matter which way it turns. Coolings
"veins"???--as a doctor, I would advise IV fluids.
Boyd.
>
>
> Bought a high time engine (O-320 E3D). I suspect the alternator that
> came with it (frozen up and in need of rebuilding) is not the alternator
> originally off it. I took the alternator in to have it rebuilt and the
> technician verified that it was an aircraft alternator, or more
> correctly, it is "set up for aircraft use". But the cooling veins would
> be running backwards he said. The alternator is set up for clockwise
> rotation and as we know, for aircraft use the rotation will be
> counter-clockwise.
>
> Seems to me I read that this is not a problem. Any or your thoughts
> would be appreciated.
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Chuck Weyant
> EMail Me: chuck(at)chuckdirect.com
> WebSite: http://www.chuckdirect.com
> Santa Maria, CA
> 805 347-8882
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chuck Weyant <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
Subject: | Alternator Cooling Fans |
Okay got all kinds of undeliverable stuff back from my last attempt at
posting. My appologies to all if I am screwing up:
Is it really true that the cooling fans on an alternator don't care
which way they rotate?
Regards,
Chuck Weyant---RV9A, Ready to ProSeal the Tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
Chuck--
The alternator runs great in either direction. As long as the cooling
air tube is directed towards the middle of the alternator cooling vents
you should be doing just great--no matter which way it turns. Coolings
"veins"???--as a doctor, I would advise IV fluids.
Boyd.
>
>
> Bought a high time engine (O-320 E3D). I suspect the alternator that
> came with it (frozen up and in need of rebuilding) is not the alternator
> originally off it. I took the alternator in to have it rebuilt and the
> technician verified that it was an aircraft alternator, or more
> correctly, it is "set up for aircraft use". But the cooling veins would
> be running backwards he said. The alternator is set up for clockwise
> rotation and as we know, for aircraft use the rotation will be
> counter-clockwise.
>
> Seems to me I read that this is not a problem. Any or your thoughts
> would be appreciated.
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Chuck Weyant
> EMail Me: chuck(at)chuckdirect.com
> WebSite: http://www.chuckdirect.com
> Santa Maria, CA
> 805 347-8882
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
Scott--
Is the hanging at the airport POKnight?
Boyd.
>
>
> hey peter
> isn't it about time to come back to tampa and check out my progress, i have
> an engine hanging party this sunday, you guys are invited,
> hows yours comming along?
> take care
> scott
> tampa rv6a fiberglassing wheel pants
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
Scott--
Is the hanging at the airport POKnight?
Boyd.
>
>
> hey peter
> isn't it about time to come back to tampa and check out my progress, i have
> an engine hanging party this sunday, you guys are invited,
> hows yours comming along?
> take care
> scott
> tampa rv6a fiberglassing wheel pants
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | clayfly(at)libertybay.com |
Subject: | Fuel Consumption Chart for O-360-A1A |
Fellow Listers,
Does someone have a SIMPLE way to compute expected fuel consumption using cruise
altitude, MAP and RPM? I'm just not getting there with my copy of the Lycoming
Operator's Manual. I don't want to spend countless hours boring holes in
the sky at various altitudes and power settings to establish the numbers and
I don't have a fuel flow meter onboard.
Thanks,
Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X --- lot's of flying this week!!!
Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: To shim or not to shim, that is the question. |
Jim, If you have the newer cowling little or no shimming is required.
Good luck
Rod and Rollie 6A finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | engine hot start problem |
My engine guru is out of town, so I will run this past the list, with
everyone's permission...
(Carbureted O-320, dual magnetos, 150 trouble-free hours until now)
The last two times I have visited the local mountaintop airport at 3780 ft
MSL, I have encountered a new problem: after shut-down of about 10-15 minutes
I have no trouble getting an un-primed restart, but the engine will only idle
for about 3 to 5 seconds before abruptly cutting off. "What the hey - ?!"
Restart is then very difficult; I tried rich and lean mixture settings,
primer, throttle accelerator pump, letting her sit awhile in case she was
flooded. Both times that it happened, last week and today, I've cranked the
starter so much that I thought I was going to end up with a dead battery or
face a fun time trying to hand-prop... Today I finally achieved a restart by
shutting off the electric fuel pump. I thought since the extra fuel didn't
help matters, perhaps there was fuel getting past the needle and seat with
the boost pump on...? Maybe it was just coincidence. Several times she
restarted only to die again in a few seconds at high idle.
It's spooky to attempt a take off just a few minutes after your Lycoming does
that to you!
Is this the way vapor lock behaves? I'm burning mogas and I'm sure the blend
is now more of a winter, high-vapor-pressure blend than it was this summer at
the pump. The 10 minute shut-downs would give an opportunity for heat soak
in the engine compartment. Ideas on what to look into and how to diagnose
the problem systematically next time this occurs are most welcome. I intend
to try some restart experiments at the home field tomorrow (1000 MSL) to see
if the altitude has any bearing on it.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/FP Sensenich
Hop-Along Airfield - 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Consumption Chart for O-360-A1A |
In a message dated 11/3/00 7:18:36 PM Pacific Standard Time,
clayfly(at)libertybay.com writes:
<< Does someone have a SIMPLE way to compute expected fuel consumption using
cruise altitude, MAP and RPM? I'm just not getting there with my copy of the
Lycoming Operator's Manual. I don't want to spend countless hours boring
holes in the sky at various altitudes and power settings to establish the
numbers and I don't have a fuel flow meter onboard. >>
This method is close enough and I have verified it using the VM flow meter
over the previous 370 hrs. At cruise settings when proper leaned (50- 75 deg
F rich of peak), regardless of altitude, take the manifold pressure in inHg
and add it to the two most significant digits of the rpm. Then refer to the
following:
48 = 75% power = 10.5 gph
47 = 72% power = 10.0 gph
46 = 68% power = 9.5 gph
45 = 65% power = 9.0 gph
44 = 62% power = 8.5 gph
43 = 58% power = 8.0 gph
42 = 55% power = 7.5 gph
I have a label stuck to my VM display that shows this info and the actual is
always within 0.2 gph.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Don Mack" <don(at)dmack.net> |
Subject: | Stephen Frey RV-6/6A jig for sale |
I have a Stephen Frey metal RV6/6A fuselage jig, with birdcage option,
available for sale. See my web site www.dmack.net or
http://home.ici.net/~eloveday/fuselagejig.html for pictures of the jig. It
has only been used on my plane and other than being dusty is in excellent
shape.
Cost new was $1550, willing to sell it for $1100. Today, new jigs go for
$1950 (see http://home.ici.net/~eloveday/prices.html ).
I am based in Chicago area.
If interested, please contact me off list at don(at)dmack.net
Don Mack
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Manual Aileron Trim Restoring Force |
My 6A now flies true with a 7 inch long 3/16 thick taper wedge duct taped to
the aileron bottom trailing edge so I am ready to hook up trim. I just
installed the manual aileron trim springs and the restoring force seems
overly aggressive.
I dutifully followed Van's instructions re stick hard over to the left and
trim arm 70 degrees right to ensure proper spring bias. That sure results in
stretched out springs! When I tweak the sticks they rebound instantly to
center. I tried to measure the restoring force with my fish scale (used for
the nose wheel break away force calibration) and it is well less than a
pound. Nonetheless, it seems to be of the same order of magnitude as the
force required to initiate a roll when I'm flying.
To those with manual trim: Did you note any change in roll feel with the
trim installed?
Thanks.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 3.7 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Randy Simpson <airtime(at)proaxis.com> |
Subject: | A question, and an offer for my past Ti-down customers |
RV-Listers, if you have no interest in Ti-down talk, please delete now, and
pardon my semispamlike intrusion.
There are over 200 RV listers using my Titanium Ti-downs, and this is by
far the largest "group" of people using them. I hope all who are using them
are enjoying them.
I have a question for you guys and gals.
Do any of you ever use the little scotchbrite cleanup pad I provide with
the Ti-downs? I personally don't use one, as I just wipe any dirt off them
as they come out of the ground, and don't worry about them gleaming or
anything. It's silly to keep providing the pad if nobody uses it.
Please let me know off list (airtime(at)proaxis.com) if you have an opinion on
this matter, thanks.
My cost for the Titanium I use making the Ti-downs is significant. The
current price for 5/16" 6/4 Ti rod is $29.15/lb. It takes almost a pound
and a half of Titanium to make a set, so alot of my potential profit goes
to the Titanium supplier.
I've just come across a good deal thru my workplace to get some 5/16"
Titanium rod in coil form, for a really good price. My hotlathe can only
use straight barstock for making the screw part, so I'll be making a coil
straightner.
I'm gonna be getting approx. 1500 lbs of that material (enough to make
1000+ sets) on Monday, November 6. Here's a pic of 918 lbs of it...
http://www.airtimemfg.com/Images/ti-coils.jpg
Even with a "good deal" on the Ti material, 1500 lbs. is still alot of $$$,
and I'm kinda strapped for that much cash at the moment, so....
The offer I'm refering to in the subject line above is this:
I have about 25 five coil sets (#5165-3)or kits (#5165-3K) made at the
present time, and will sell them for an additional $10 off the already
discounted RV-List price to my past customers, while they last. I know you
past customers don't need another set or kit, but I'm sure you've impressed
some of your flying buddies with them, and there may be some of them that
would like some too. You could pass the savings on to your buds, or keep
the $10 for your effort. They would also make a great Christmas present
*groan, not THAT time already*
#5165-3 "set"=$50 for past customers.
#5165-3K "kit"=$60 for past customers.
And I pay for the shipping, to US customers.
This is the cheapest I've offered the Ti-downs for, and won't offer them
that cheap again, once these 25 sets are gone.
I have seven different colors of bags available for the kits now. You can
see them here:
http://www.airtimemfg.com/Images/5coilbags.jpg
(black, charcoal grey, silver grey, navy blue, electric blue, maroon, and
fuchsia).
For comparison, you can see what another company has come up with for the
purpose of tying down airplanes here:
http://www.flyties.com
Their price for all those pieces is $119.95 + $12.50(shipping). I think my
Ti-downs are much better (you don't need to carry along a heavy hammer),
and are half the price of those flyties.
I recently (almost a month ago) ran an ad in the Kitplanes online magazine
for my Titanium Ti-downs, and haven't recieved even one response from that.
Kitplanes boasts 1.5 million website hits a month, but I'm wondering where
they came up with that number *grin*
Once I get that Titanium coil material and my straightner built, I'll be
busy as a bee this winter, getting as many sets made as possible for the
flying season next spring/summer. I'll probably start running magazine ads
and hitting some of the bigger fly-ins, marketing them that way.
This RV-list has defiantely been the best source for sales for me. Thank you.
Sincerely,
Randy Simpson
Airtime Mfg.
http://www.airtimemfg.com
Carrera Ultralight flier
RV flier wannabe
p.s. I'm still looking forward to my first "RV Grin" sometime in the near
future *wink wink*
Anybody in the Willamette Valley able to give me (and my new wife) some RV
inspiration?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: What size alternator to use? |
>From: "Sid Lloyd" <glastar1(at)swbell.net>
>
>I want to use one of the B & C Specialty Products lightweight alternators
and
>their regulators. They offer both a 60 and a 40 amp version. How do you
>know which one to get? Do you add up your planned electrical load and
>figure it out that way?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Sid
You need to accomplish what is called a "load analysis" for
the various phases of flight. Some folks do it on a spread sheet
and enter continuous running load (transmit doesn't count, lowing
landing gear
generally doesn't count, only add up loads that are on for duration
of the flight phase).
Main Bus Loads
===========================================================================
==========
Pre- Taxi Climb VFR IFR Decent
Taxi Alt
Flt Cruise Cruise
Out
Battery contactor 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0
1.0
Engine Gages 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3
0.3
Strobe Lts 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5
2.5
Nav Lts
Fuel Pump
Landing Lt 7.5
Taxi Lt 4.5
Pitot Heat 5.0
Main Bus Totals
Essential Bus Loads
===========================================================================
==========
Pre- Taxi Climb VFR IFR Decent
Taxi Alt
Flt Cruise Cruise
Out
Com 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
0.1 0.1
GPS 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
0.2 0.2
T/C 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3
0.3 0.3
Transponder/Encoder 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45
0.45 0.45
Map Lt/Pnl Flood 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
0.1 0.1
E-Bus Totals 1.25
The list above is not intended to be all inclusive nor are the figures
entered intended
to be representative of your airplane . . . you need to do the homework and
get all the
data approprate to the equipment you plan to use.
You might also include a column headed NITE VFR . . .
After all the continuous loads are added up, total loads for E-Bus and Main
bus
should not be so great in any class of operation such that it doesn't leave
10A
or so to recharge your battery. The FAA uses a rule-of-thumb on the order
of 20
percent of alternator output should be reserved for battery charging. A better
rule is to figure out how much snort it takes to completely recharge your
battery
in 1 hour of flight. If you have an 18 a.h. battery, then you need 18A of
extra
output over and above your max continuous running loads.
If you make it an operating rule for your airplane that you will NEVER depart
into potentially stressful flight conditions unless the battery is fully
charged,
then you don't need to meet the 1 hour "rule" . . . If on hopefully very rare
occasions that you find your ship's battery totally dead, you make sure the
battery
is mostly recharged before launching into the blue then you can sensibly
mitigate
your alternator requriements. The classic rules of thumb observed by certified
aircraft designers originat from the padded cockpit environment where the
pilot
is assumed to know nothing about how the system was architectured or how it
operates. You are all encouraged to understand what's happening, why, and
be able to operate comfortably with it based on purposeful decision making.
I'm not sure the chart above will pass through all of the various lists with
the columns intact so I've dumped this e-mail to a .pdf file which you may
doanload at http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/loadanal.pdf
Bob . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different from )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
Subject: | Copy of "18 Years of the RV-Ator" for sale |
The title says it all. I bought one...a couple of months later, couldn't find
it, so I bought another one...then found the first one under a car seat, I'd taken
it on vacation to read...sheesh...anyway, I don't need two of 'em! The first
person to contact me at jwlawson(at)hargray.com who says they'll pay $15 for
it (shipping included) gets it.
John
RV-6 (waiting on trim tab parts)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)peoplepc.com> |
Subject: | -8A Rear Seat Rudder Kit |
Hi all...
I just got the rear seat rudder pedal kit for my -8A, and it is quite
different than for the -8... I was under the impression they were similar,
if not the same... I have published a couple pictures on EGroups:
http://www.egroups.com/files/rv8list/-8A+Rear+Seat+Rudder+Pedals/
Later...
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Extracting stubborn screw |
I need to remove the tank on my wing after trial fitting it, and one of the
#8 screws refuses to budge. I've managed to mangle the head by now. Drill
it out? Other ideas?
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
Subject: | De-burring nose ribs |
Someone recently asked for suggestions on deburring parts where there's not a lot
of room to maneuver a deburring tool or file
(such as wing nose ribs and tank ribs). Try this: cut a piece of fine-grit emery
cloth into narrow strips, put the part to be
deburred in a vise, and use the emery cloth as though you were flossing your teeth
(mandatory disclaimer, necessary in today's
litigious society - do NOT use emery cloth to floss your teeth!!!! It would be
VERY hard on the enamel, to say the least). A light
touch with the cloth will do OK, as even the fine grade of emery cloth (at least,
the finest I could find) is still kinda gritty.
John
RV-6 (waiting on trim tab parts)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
Subject: | De-burring nose ribs |
Thanks for the tip and all the other tips I received on this subject.
I was using emery cloth on a few select parts before. The inspector told me
that I shouldn't do it though due to the metal content in the emery cloth.
Does this make sense?
Sine that, I have been using regulat sand paper.
Are
RV-8 - Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Lawson
Sent: November 4, 2000 1:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: De-burring nose ribs
Someone recently asked for suggestions on deburring parts where there's not
a lot of room to maneuver a deburring tool or file
(such as wing nose ribs and tank ribs). Try this: cut a piece of fine-grit
emery cloth into narrow strips, put the part to be
deburred in a vise, and use the emery cloth as though you were flossing your
teeth (mandatory disclaimer, necessary in today's
litigious society - do NOT use emery cloth to floss your teeth!!!! It would
be VERY hard on the enamel, to say the least). A light
touch with the cloth will do OK, as even the fine grade of emery cloth (at
least, the finest I could find) is still kinda gritty.
John
RV-6 (waiting on trim tab parts)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Subject: | Manual Aileron Trim Restoring Force |
Hi Dennis,
The difference in the feel in roll isn't noticable at all. I wish I had put the
roll trim in for the first flight instead of having to hold aileron in it until
I was able to get it squeezed.
Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 125 hrs
Simi Valley, SoCal
I dutifully followed Van's instructions re stick hard over to the left and
trim arm 70 degrees right to ensure proper spring bias. That sure results in
stretched out springs! When I tweak the sticks they rebound instantly to
center. I tried to measure the restoring force with my fish scale (used for
the nose wheel break away force calibration) and it is well less than a
pound. Nonetheless, it seems to be of the same order of magnitude as the
force required to initiate a roll when I'm flying.
To those with manual trim: Did you note any change in roll feel with the
trim installed?
Thanks.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 3.7 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: De-burring nose ribs |
Real "Emery" paper or cloth is hard to find. Its abrasive is hard carbon
particles. Other abrasives are Aluminum Oxide (tan) and Silicon Carbide
(black). There are a couple other papers, ordinary sand which is very poor
and garnet which works well on wood but not on metal. The other really fine
paper is crocus cloth which is iron oxide.
There was a discussion about which was the proper ScotchBite to use as one
had Aluminum oxide and the other silicon carbide. I don't remember
(C.R.A.F.T.) which was the preferred abrasive. I do know that Steel wool
does contaminate the aluminum and should not be used.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2000 11:35 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: De-burring nose ribs
>
> Thanks for the tip and all the other tips I received on this subject.
>
> I was using emery cloth on a few select parts before. The inspector told
me
> that I shouldn't do it though due to the metal content in the emery cloth.
> Does this make sense?
>
> Sine that, I have been using regulat sand paper.
>
> Are
> RV-8 - Wings
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Lawson
> Sent: November 4, 2000 1:26 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: De-burring nose ribs
>
>
> Someone recently asked for suggestions on deburring parts where there's
not
> a lot of room to maneuver a deburring tool or file
> (such as wing nose ribs and tank ribs). Try this: cut a piece of
fine-grit
> emery cloth into narrow strips, put the part to be
> deburred in a vise, and use the emery cloth as though you were flossing
your
> teeth (mandatory disclaimer, necessary in today's
> litigious society - do NOT use emery cloth to floss your teeth!!!! It
would
> be VERY hard on the enamel, to say the least). A light
> touch with the cloth will do OK, as even the fine grade of emery cloth (at
> least, the finest I could find) is still kinda gritty.
>
> John
> RV-6 (waiting on trim tab parts)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Listers,
Randy has a great product at a great price here. If you haven't held them in your
hand, you don't know just how cool these things are. They are so light you'll
be amazed. I love showing them off and I keep them in the RV all the time.
It's by FAR the best tiedown I've seen and used.
Even if your not ready to fly, take Randy up on his offer and get yourself a set
for as a stocking stuffer.
Just my opinion (and I don't have any interest in Randy's business).
Randy, congratulations on getting married! And don't bother with the Scotchbright
pad....
Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 120 hrs (Ti down equiped)
O-360, Sensenich (83)
Simi Valley, SoCal
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Fri, Nov 3, 2000 10:30 PM
Subject: RV-List: A question, and an offer for my past Ti-down customers
snip
The offer I'm refering to in the subject line above is this:
I have about 25 five coil sets (#5165-3)or kits (#5165-3K) made at the
present time, and will sell them for an additional $10 off the already
discounted RV-List price to my past customers, while they last. I know you
past customers don't need another set or kit, but I'm sure you've impressed
some of your flying buddies with them, and there may be some of them that
would like some too. You could pass the savings on to your buds, or keep
the $10 for your effort. They would also make a great Christmas present
*groan, not THAT time already*
#5165-3 "set"=$50 for past customers.
#5165-3K "kit"=$60 for past customers.
And I pay for the shipping, to US customers.
This is the cheapest I've offered the Ti-downs for, and won't offer them
that cheap again, once these 25 sets are gone.
snip
This RV-list has defiantely been the best source for sales for me. Thank you.
Sincerely,
Randy Simpson
Airtime Mfg.
http://www.airtimemfg.com
Carrera Ultralight flier
RV flier wannabe
p.s. I'm still looking forward to my first "RV Grin" sometime in the near
future *wink wink*
Anybody in the Willamette Valley able to give me (and my new wife) some RV
inspiration?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Extracting stubborn screw |
Steve:
What you need is a screw extractor, available at most tool suppliers, e.g.,
SnapOn, etc. You drill a small pilot hole, then insert what looks like a
fat screw with left-hand thread so that as you screw it in, it backs out the
original screw. Comes in various sizes.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hrs. TT
O-320, Hartzell C/S
RV-6, Fuselage
pat_hatch(at)msn.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2000 11:43 AM
Subject: RV-List: Extracting stubborn screw
>
> I need to remove the tank on my wing after trial fitting it, and one of
the
> #8 screws refuses to budge. I've managed to mangle the head by now.
Drill
> it out? Other ideas?
>
> Steve Johnson
> RV-8 #80121
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM |
I am trying to install the polyester cowl on my -4. With the air frame
level, and the front of the cowl clamped to the rear spinner bulkhead (with
1/4" spacer) and the inside top of the front inlets level, the rear of the
cowl, where the cheek extensions connect, the left side is almost 1- 3/4
inches higher than the right. If I level the rear of the cowl so the cheek
extensions are the same height from the top longeron, the the front inlets
are out of whack, again by about 1-3/4 inches.
Has any one else had this problem? or, as per usual am I missing something?
'preciate any advise,
Warren Moore
HB, Ca.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | Re: To shim or not to shim, that is the question. |
Jim:
If the science is the same for a 4, by shimming the hinges, if anything
your cowl will fit with a little edge up to the fuselage. This will
allow the use of body filler to really true up the edge and not to have
to cut into the fiberglass of the cowl. It just allows some room for
adjustment and more filler. You will want to cover those rivets with
something!
Dave Aronson
Just getting to this with my RV4
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote:
>
>
> Doing that whole proseal, attach hinges, cowl thing this weekend and I
> notice that the shims called out to shim the cowl hinges that attach to the
> firewall are not really needed in most places. The fit is flat without the
> shims. Am I missing something here? By not attaching the shims am I
> setting myself up for heartache later after I have it all sealed and
> riveted???
>
> What say ye experienced RV-8(A) cowl fasteners.
>
> Thx,
>
> Jim Andrews
> RV-8A ( sanding and more sanding )
> O-360 Sensenich 85
> N89JA reserved
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Consumption Chart for O-360-A1A |
--- Vanremog(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
Good question, does anyone have some suggestions for
prop settings along with the MP nr's. I generally set
mine at 2400 enroute.
> In a message dated 11/3/00 7:18:36 PM Pacific
> Standard Time,
> clayfly(at)libertybay.com writes:
>
> << Does someone have a SIMPLE way to compute
> expected fuel consumption using
> cruise altitude, MAP and RPM? I'm just not getting
> there with my copy of the
> Lycoming Operator's Manual. I don't want to spend
> countless hours boring
> holes in the sky at various altitudes and power
> settings to establish the
> numbers and I don't have a fuel flow meter onboard.
> >>
>
> This method is close enough and I have verified it
> using the VM flow meter
> over the previous 370 hrs. At cruise settings when
> proper leaned (50- 75 deg
> F rich of peak), regardless of altitude, take the
> manifold pressure in inHg
> and add it to the two most significant digits of the
> rpm. Then refer to the
> following:
>
> 48 = 75% power = 10.5 gph
> 47 = 72% power = 10.0 gph
> 46 = 68% power = 9.5 gph
> 45 = 65% power = 9.0 gph
> 44 = 62% power = 8.5 gph
> 43 = 58% power = 8.0 gph
> 42 = 55% power = 7.5 gph
>
> I have a label stuck to my VM display that shows
> this info and the actual is
> always within 0.2 gph.
>
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
>
>
> support the
> Lists
> moment to
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robin Keller <rwkeller(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | Builders Seminars |
Having almost succumbed to the lure of building my own airplane, I'm
curious about how many of you attended a builders seminar before you
started on your building adventure.
I consider myself reasonably. I rebuilt an English sports car in my
youth - no mean feat - and had less than a full coffee can of "spare"
parts when I was finished. Watching the e-mail on this list server has
been terrific. But I do wonder if I have the knowledge to pull this off
without a little education at the beginning.
There are a number of seminars advertised on the Van's site. Has anyone
had any recent experience they would like to share?
robin keller
Cherokee N7324W and RV-6 hopeful
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
Hi Dave:
I sloshed my tanks on the RV 6 when I built them , first flight May 1992. My
only reason for sloshing was to have a bit of added protection for leaks and
had no reason to be concerned about it as we had used it before in other
aircraft without any trouble. I felt that the tanks were as clean as
possible having Alumapreped them prior to pro-sealing and riveting. However
a couple of years later started picking up small pieces in the gascolater.
Then looking a bit closer through the the filler openings could see that a
lot of it was coming loose, the only two choices now was to build a new set
of tanks or cut inspection holes in the back baffle and clean it out.
Decided to clean them out, required a week at five to six hours a day.
Had I known what I know now about the reliability of pro-seal properly used
I would never have considered using slosh and will never use it again. I
believe the Randolph slosh is a good product but how can one be sure that
the tanks are clean enough after working in them during riveting. I would be
interested in knowing how your chap cleaned his tanks prior to sloshing.
In my situation there were large pieces coming loose like an inch square
that would have completely blocked the fuel pick-up's. I believe a small
leak especially in the rear baffle could be taken care of by cleaning and
adding more pro-seal.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
-----Original Message-----
From: dave ford <dford(at)michweb.net>
Date: Monday, October 30, 2000 5:09 PM
Subject: slosh
What kind of slosh problem did you have with your tanks? I used slosh on my
first tank because I had a leak at the rear baffle. As a first time new
builder the first thing I did was to contact the guy who has a service of
building tanks for people and he said he uses slosh when he builds tanks. I
then didn't hesitate to check into the Randolph 912 which they say is better
than the original yellow slosh--will hold up to the gasolines that the
previous slosh did not. After using the slosh I start hearing stories about
slosh peeling from tanks--now I'm concerned. Some say don't worry about it,
or cut access holes and clean out every bit of slosh, or just put an in-line
filter between that tank and the gascolator. Looking for suggestions and
reassurances.
Dave Ford
RV6 fuselage
O360 C\S
By the way I'd like more information about equipping my plane for floats in
the future. Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 11/4/00 12:09:12 PM Pacific Standard Time,
MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM writes:
<<
I am trying to install the polyester cowl on my -4. With the air frame
level, and the front of the cowl clamped to the rear spinner bulkhead (with
1/4" spacer) and the inside top of the front inlets level, the rear of the
cowl, where the cheek extensions connect, the left side is almost 1- 3/4
inches higher than the right. If I level the rear of the cowl so the cheek
extensions are the same height from the top longeron, the the front inlets
are out of whack, again by about 1-3/4 inches.
Has any one else had this problem? or, as per usual am I missing something?
'preciate any advise,
Warren Moore
HB, Ca.
>>
Warren,
Sounds like your cowl is twisted. Try clamping, cargo straps and anything
else you can think of to hold the cowl in the proper position. Carefully use
a heat gun to relieve the twist. Then drill and cleco it in place so that it
will take a set. I did this after I left my cowl stored improperly and
picked up a twist. It is mounted now and fit's fine.
Cash Copeland
QB #60075
RV6 N46FC (Reserved)
Oakland, Ca
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Builders Seminars |
Robin
I volunteered to help a local RV-4 builder for several months before
deciding that I could do this. I would go over to Jody's house 2-3 nights a
week and help him work on his fuselage. I learned a lot from him (I still
learn a lot from him) while helping him. I would recommend this approach if
you have a willing local builder.
Charlie Kuss
>
> Having almost succumbed to the lure of building my own airplane, I'm
> curious about how many of you attended a builders seminar before you
> started on your building adventure.
>
> I consider myself reasonably. I rebuilt an English sports car in my
> youth - no mean feat - and had less than a full coffee can of "spare"
> parts when I was finished. Watching the e-mail on this list server has
> been terrific. But I do wonder if I have the knowledge to pull this off
> without a little education at the beginning.
>
> There are a number of seminars advertised on the Van's site. Has anyone
> had any recent experience they would like to share?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Builders Seminars |
>
>Having almost succumbed to the lure of building my own airplane, I'm
>curious about how many of you attended a builders seminar before you
>started on your building adventure.
>
>I consider myself reasonably. I rebuilt an English sports car in my
>youth - no mean feat - and had less than a full coffee can of "spare"
>parts when I was finished. Watching the e-mail on this list server has
>been terrific. But I do wonder if I have the knowledge to pull this off
>without a little education at the beginning.
>
>There are a number of seminars advertised on the Van's site. Has anyone
>had any recent experience they would like to share?
>
>robin keller
>Cherokee N7324W and RV-6 hopeful
>
A builder's seminar may help you get on top of the learning curve a
bit quicker, but that money could be spent on a pneumatic squeezer,
or other odds and ends too. I spent an hour with another builder
practicing riveting on scrap, watched George Orndorff's Sheet Metal
Tools video, and his RV6/8 Prepunched Empennage video before I
started construction. I made a few minor mistakes, but I bet I would
have made almost as many even if I had taken a builder's seminar.
The guy who inspected my wing and tail (we need official inspections
in Canada) was very happy with the quality of my work.
So, from my perspective, if you can spend some time with a local
builder, a builder's seminar is not required, unless you need a
confidence builder. If you rebuilt a sports car, and it actually
ran, you have enough confidence to do this. The skills are not
difficult, you just need to practice a bit on scrap before attacking
the real thing. You also have to accept that you will trash a few
parts. Fortunately none of the parts in the tail kit are very
expensive.
George Orndorff's videos can be bought direct from George, or from
the other big RV suppliers. Web addresses, etc are in the Yeller
Pages:
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm
Go for it.
Just my two cents worth, I'm sure others will disagree.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RGray67968(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | rudder tail/strobe light |
Howdy,
Any tips on installing the whelen tail/strobe light in the fiberglass fairing
would be appreciated. I saw (archives) where one builder glassed in a piece
of 1/8" aluminum to fit the light. I guess I just "hack" off the bottom
corner of my gorgeous rudder and go to town. Not much on the top of the pre
fabbed light fairing to tie into the rudder.........pro seal and pops??
Thanks in advance.
Please archive.
Rick Gray (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
Subject: | Re: rudder tail/strobe light |
Mix some T-88 structural epoxy with microglass spheres and build up a
shelf inside the fiberglass hole where the tail light will go. Once
dried/cured the T-88 will take a threaded tap or use a self-tapping
screw(s). If you want extra insurance, the T-88 will also hold an
aluminum "doubler" in place to strengthen the fiberglass rim.
Boyd
N600SS
SW FL
>
>
> Howdy,
> Any tips on installing the whelen tail/strobe light in the fiberglass fairing
> would be appreciated. I saw (archives) where one builder glassed in a piece
> of 1/8" aluminum to fit the light. I guess I just "hack" off the bottom
> corner of my gorgeous rudder and go to town. Not much on the top of the pre
> fabbed light fairing to tie into the rudder.........pro seal and pops??
> Thanks in advance.
> Please archive.
> Rick Gray (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kcskiflyer" <klwski1(at)pouch.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fiberglass tips |
Randy
Thanks for the tip, as you see many rv'ers suggested what I should do
(thanks) and I went with the nut plate idea and no filler. What I did was
take some scrap aluminum from the vertical stabilizer that I had to replace
(another story in its self) and made 1 inch strips the length of each
fiberglass tip and, drilled, and debured, and clecoed, and primed, and glued
(a nice epoxy) them to each tip, nut plates went on next and I now have
perfect looking fiberglass tips that I can remove for inspections, and they
do look very professional , the only thing that worries me is how offten can
I remove the screw that goes into the nut plate, and do I realy have to take
the emp tips off for each inspection, what I've goten myself into is if the
tips were riveted then I would not be able to remove them, so what I'm
asking is should the tips ever be removed?
Thanks
Ken
RV-9A
emp,wings dec 10
lyc 0-290-d 0smh
Long Island NY
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy J. Pflanzer <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 7:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass tips
>
> Ken,
>
> Two points on adding the fiberglass tips. I would screw them on with the
> small #4 screws and nutplates rather than pop rivets and bondo. No so
much
> because of the weight, but the screws look more professional IMHO and will
> look nicer longer. Also, the bondo will eventually crack along the joint
> line and you will get a small line anyway. At this crack, the paint and
> bondo can chip off. Also, the screws and nutplates are actually easier
and
> take less time to do. I pop riveted mine on and I wish I hadn't.
>
> Second, if you want to close the gap, do the following. Mount all the
> screws and nutplates. Lay ONE layer of duct tape over the aluminum making
> sure to go over the edge and around the backside slightly. Mount the tip
> and screw it down. Cover the screws. Force bondo/filler material of your
> choice in the crack. Once hardened, sand with 80 grit sandpaper down to
the
> duct tape. Use care to not go through the tape but sand the surface down
as
> far as you can. Then remove the tip and tape. Finish sand the part and
> slightly round the edge. I use 240 grit wet/dry. That should give you a
> nice straight and even edge along the entire joint line.
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G
> RV-6 Indianapolis (93 hours)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: kcskiflyer <klwski1(at)pouch.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2000 8:53 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass tips
>
>
> >
> > I'm going to finnish the fiberglass on my RV-9A emp this weekend and was
> > wondering how I should close up the gap between the glass and the
> aluminum,
> > should I glass it, "bondo" it, or what? The fairings will not have to
come
> > off ( no lights or antenni) whats the best looking way to do this. I've
> > painted many cars and several boats all with some body work involved so
> I'm
> > not afraid to make the whole thing smooth. I don't want to make it
heavey
> > and slow and I wan't some of that RV speed out of this machine, any
> > sugestions would help.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Ken
> > RV-9A
> > emp, wings Dec 10th
> > Lyc 0-290-D 0SMOH
> > Long Island NY
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Consumption Chart for O-360-A1A |
I was under the impression that the O360A1A was to be leaned according to
the Lyc manual which is not as you say.
Leaning to rich of peak at higher altitudes wastes fuel and cokes up engine
doesn't it?
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK with new O360A1A
Waiting for FAA inspection.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 8:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Consumption Chart for O-360-A1A
>
> In a message dated 11/3/00 7:18:36 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> clayfly(at)libertybay.com writes:
>
> << Does someone have a SIMPLE way to compute expected fuel consumption
using
> cruise altitude, MAP and RPM? I'm just not getting there with my copy of
the
> Lycoming Operator's Manual. I don't want to spend countless hours boring
> holes in the sky at various altitudes and power settings to establish the
> numbers and I don't have a fuel flow meter onboard. >>
>
> This method is close enough and I have verified it using the VM flow meter
> over the previous 370 hrs. At cruise settings when proper leaned (50- 75
deg
> F rich of peak), regardless of altitude, take the manifold pressure in
inHg
> and add it to the two most significant digits of the rpm. Then refer to
the
> following:
>
> 48 = 75% power = 10.5 gph
> 47 = 72% power = 10.0 gph
> 46 = 68% power = 9.5 gph
> 45 = 65% power = 9.0 gph
> 44 = 62% power = 8.5 gph
> 43 = 58% power = 8.0 gph
> 42 = 55% power = 7.5 gph
>
> I have a label stuck to my VM display that shows this info and the actual
is
> always within 0.2 gph.
>
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "The Stribling's" <bbattery(at)bendcable.com> |
I am building the exhaust for a 160 hp 320 lycoming for 6a. If I make a
muffler that will fit between back of starter, to oil sump will that
interfere with anything going there in the future, I am trying to make it as
quite as possible
Ken 6-A Engine work and FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Flight Test Program |
Hi Clay,
I'm waiting for inspection and beginning to realize that I am going to fly
this work of mine. I'd like tthe help I'm sure your plan will be!
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
waiting inspector
----- Original Message -----
0.83) with SMTP id ;Wed <B0005204863@mail-2.lbay.net>; <23 Aug 2000
07:17:52.-0700(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2000 6:22 AM
Subject: RV-List: Flight Test Program
>
> Hi Listers,
> Seeing as how I'm going to likely have a 40 hour flight test time, I've
created a rather
> extensive flight test program which I created based on Advisory Circular:
90-89A and
> chapter 15 of Van's builder instructions. If you would like have a copy
in MS Word, just
> drop me an e-mail and I'll send you a copy.
>
> I make no warranties, guaranties, or claim any expertise whatsoever. But
it might be a good
> starting point for you if you want to develop your own thorough test plan.
I'm still making
> changes to it --- but by and large it's what I plan to do with my 40
hours.
>
> Regards,
>
> Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, inspection soon
> Indiana
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Roy L. Glass and Mary L. Poteet" <rlglass(at)alaska.net> |
Subject: | Re: Extracting stubborn screw |
Before you drill it out, try using a "T" handle screw driver. I got mine
at Sears (Craftsman Grip Driver, it ratchets, too). You can put a lot of
pressure on the screw and it may back out without any trouble.
Roy Glass - Anchorage, AK RV-6, priming elevator contol tubes
Stephen Johnson wrote:
>
>
> I need to remove the tank on my wing after trial fitting it, and one of the
> #8 screws refuses to budge. I've managed to mangle the head by now. Drill
> it out? Other ideas?
>
> Steve Johnson
> RV-8 #80121
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: De-burring nose ribs |
This is what I do, sometimes with the emery cloth rapped around a small
file. Also use folded strips of 400 and 600 grit wet and dry sandpaper.
Marty in Brentwood TN, RV6A Fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Lawson" <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2000 12:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: De-burring nose ribs
>
> Someone recently asked for suggestions on deburring parts where there's
not a lot of room to maneuver a deburring tool or file
> (such as wing nose ribs and tank ribs). Try this: cut a piece of
fine-grit emery cloth into narrow strips, put the part to be
> deburred in a vise, and use the emery cloth as though you were flossing
your teeth (mandatory disclaimer, necessary in today's
> litigious society - do NOT use emery cloth to floss your teeth!!!! It
would be VERY hard on the enamel, to say the least). A light
> touch with the cloth will do OK, as even the fine grade of emery cloth (at
least, the finest I could find) is still kinda gritty.
>
> John
> RV-6 (waiting on trim tab parts)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Marcel Bourgon" <mbourgon(at)elp.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Builders Seminars |
Greetings from El Paso, Texas
Currently building a RV-9A. Just completed the empennage and waiting for my
wings now. Supposed to see them mid November. After I ordered tail and
before we started building my friend and I went to Fort Worth and took the
Orndorf week end building course. I also rebuilt a TR-6 and have a good
idea of tools. Georges course is a good start and will put you in the right
frame of mind for building your plane. Take you helper or wife and you will
get a real good over view of what you will need to do when building. George
also gave us a good list of tools we should buy and we have purchased most
of them from Avery tools. A real good bunch to do business with. Would
strongly recommend it. Besides my son lives in fort worth and gave me good
chance to visit
Marcel Bourgon in El Paso
----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2000 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Builders Seminars
>
> >
> >Having almost succumbed to the lure of building my own airplane, I'm
> >curious about how many of you attended a builders seminar before you
> >started on your building adventure.
> >
> >I consider myself reasonably. I rebuilt an English sports car in my
> >youth - no mean feat - and had less than a full coffee can of "spare"
> >parts when I was finished. Watching the e-mail on this list server has
> >been terrific. But I do wonder if I have the knowledge to pull this off
> >without a little education at the beginning.
> >
> >There are a number of seminars advertised on the Van's site. Has anyone
> >had any recent experience they would like to share?
> >
> >robin keller
> >Cherokee N7324W and RV-6 hopeful
> >
>
> A builder's seminar may help you get on top of the learning curve a
> bit quicker, but that money could be spent on a pneumatic squeezer,
> or other odds and ends too. I spent an hour with another builder
> practicing riveting on scrap, watched George Orndorff's Sheet Metal
> Tools video, and his RV6/8 Prepunched Empennage video before I
> started construction. I made a few minor mistakes, but I bet I would
> have made almost as many even if I had taken a builder's seminar.
> The guy who inspected my wing and tail (we need official inspections
> in Canada) was very happy with the quality of my work.
>
> So, from my perspective, if you can spend some time with a local
> builder, a builder's seminar is not required, unless you need a
> confidence builder. If you rebuilt a sports car, and it actually
> ran, you have enough confidence to do this. The skills are not
> difficult, you just need to practice a bit on scrap before attacking
> the real thing. You also have to accept that you will trash a few
> parts. Fortunately none of the parts in the tail kit are very
> expensive.
>
> George Orndorff's videos can be bought direct from George, or from
> the other big RV suppliers. Web addresses, etc are in the Yeller
> Pages:
>
> http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm
>
> Go for it.
>
> Just my two cents worth, I'm sure others will disagree.
>
>
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "rvpilot" <rvpilot(at)coollink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Consumption Chart for O-360-A1A |
Joe,
You should run your engine at it's "sweet spot". Thats the RPM where it
seems to be happiest (least vibration). Generally between 2400-2600.
Bill, N48WD
----- Original Message -----
From: "joe wiza" <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2000 3:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Consumption Chart for O-360-A1A
>
>
> --- Vanremog(at)AOL.COM wrote:
> >
> Good question, does anyone have some suggestions for
> prop settings along with the MP nr's. I generally set
> mine at 2400 enroute.
>
>
> > In a message dated 11/3/00 7:18:36 PM Pacific
> > Standard Time,
> > clayfly(at)libertybay.com writes:
> >
> > << Does someone have a SIMPLE way to compute
> > expected fuel consumption using
> > cruise altitude, MAP and RPM? I'm just not getting
> > there with my copy of the
> > Lycoming Operator's Manual. I don't want to spend
> > countless hours boring
> > holes in the sky at various altitudes and power
> > settings to establish the
> > numbers and I don't have a fuel flow meter onboard.
> > >>
> >
> > This method is close enough and I have verified it
> > using the VM flow meter
> > over the previous 370 hrs. At cruise settings when
> > proper leaned (50- 75 deg
> > F rich of peak), regardless of altitude, take the
> > manifold pressure in inHg
> > and add it to the two most significant digits of the
> > rpm. Then refer to the
> > following:
> >
> > 48 = 75% power = 10.5 gph
> > 47 = 72% power = 10.0 gph
> > 46 = 68% power = 9.5 gph
> > 45 = 65% power = 9.0 gph
> > 44 = 62% power = 8.5 gph
> > 43 = 58% power = 8.0 gph
> > 42 = 55% power = 7.5 gph
> >
> > I have a label stuck to my VM display that shows
> > this info and the actual is
> > always within 0.2 gph.
> >
> >
> > -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> > vanremog(at)aol.com
> >
> >
> >
> > support the
> > Lists
> > moment to
> >
> > through
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> > Matronics!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
Subject: | Re: Extracting stubborn screws |
Hello Stephen and Listers,
In the future when you find a stubborn screw you might try the following:
First off, try to resist the temptation to keep at it until the screw head
takes on the appearance of a large rather nasty pop rivet from hell.
Go to your local auto supply outlet and buy a small container of fine or
medium grade valve grinding compound. If the screw slot in question has not
yet been totally ruined apply some valve grinding compound to business end
of the screw driver.
Theory: The grinding compound embeds into the driving and driven surfaces
adding enough bite to turn all but the most stubborn screws. In practice,
it has worked for me.
Pushing while turning the screw the driver with as much force as the
sub-structure will allow will quite often save you from having to resort to
more extreme measures, such as drilling off the screw head or screw
extractors. As often as not drilling off the head will allow the part in
question to be removed which then gives access to rethreading or replacing
the offending fastener.
The poor mans hammer driver: If the sub structure is very sturdy or can be
properly supported a blow on the end of the screw driver while twisting the
screw driver will often help get the desired result.
Small screw extractors for small fasteners tend to require a careful deft
touch. If or when they break you're in the position of having to drill off
the screw head that has a piece of hardened material stuck in the center.
Take it form me don't go there!
Having been there and done that once too often my common approach is that
screws are cheap, drill the stubborn ones out and the replacement goes in
with Beolube or the thread lube of choice.
I hope it works for you,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: Stephen Johnson <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2000 8:43 AM
Subject: RV-List: Extracting stubborn screw
>
> I need to remove the tank on my wing after trial fitting it, and one of
the
> #8 screws refuses to budge. I've managed to mangle the head by now.
Drill
> it out? Other ideas?
>
> Steve Johnson
> RV-8 #80121
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "rvpilot" <rvpilot(at)coollink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Extracting stubborn screw |
Steve,
One trick I have used in the past is to cut a slot in the screw head with a
Dremel and cutting disk, then turn it out with a common screwdriver. This
might be hard to do on a countersunk head without damaging the surrounding
skin.
Perhaps a well worn disk (small diameter) would work.
Bill RV-8 N48WD
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2000 11:43 AM
Subject: RV-List: Extracting stubborn screw
>
> I need to remove the tank on my wing after trial fitting it, and one of
the
> #8 screws refuses to budge. I've managed to mangle the head by now.
Drill
> it out? Other ideas?
>
> Steve Johnson
> RV-8 #80121
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: rudder tail/strobe light |
From: | Wes Hays <whays(at)juno.com> |
>Any tips on installing the whelen tail/strobe light in the fiberglass
>fairing
>would be appreciated.
FWIW, I epoxied a couple of #4 single lug nutplates to the fiberglass. It
is holding so far and seems to be a pretty secure attachment. Time will
tell since I haven't even gotten off the ground yet!
Wes Hays
Rotan, TX
RV6-A
At the airport and final assembly.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Extracting stubborn screw |
From: | Wes Hays <whays(at)juno.com> |
A friend of mine told me he used left handed drill bits to extract the
screws. He used 1/8" for the #8's and 3/32" for the #6's. He said that
using the center of the phillips head kept the bit centered and once the
bit started cuting and got far enough, it just unscrewed the rest of the
screw. He did mention he used slow speed on the drill.
I haven't tried it, but he said it worked fine.
Wes Hays
Rotan, TX
RV6-A
O-360 A1A/ c/s prop
Final Assembly.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fiberglass tips |
Hello Randy,
Avery Tools sells Beolube. If you use it when installing the various screws
that go into nutplates on the aircraft you will not likely have any problems
with stripped threads or stuck screws. If after several uses the screws seem
worn enough to replace them do so again using Beolube or the thread lube of
your choice.
The empennage can be inspected adequately from the root ends. The need to
remove the empennage tips is minimal. The most likely cause for removal
would be in case of damage. Superficial damage can be corrected without
removal. More serious damage might require or involve straightening,
filling, sanding etc., thereby making removable tips a moot point.
The most common cracks that show up on riveted and filled tips show up at
the joint between the aluminum and the fiberglass tip.
My choice was to fill in the rivets and tips to improve the fits, then
deliberately groove the joint between the two. This then will show the
structure of the tip area and if cracks happen they will follow the existing
groove. Hopefully the cracks will not then show very much. Time will tell.
Keep on building,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: kcskiflyer <klwski1(at)pouch.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2000 3:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass tips
>
> Randy
>
> Thanks for the tip, as you see many rv'ers suggested what I should do
> (thanks) and I went with the nut plate idea and no filler. What I did was
> take some scrap aluminum from the vertical stabilizer that I had to
replace
> (another story in its self) and made 1 inch strips the length of each
> fiberglass tip and, drilled, and debured, and clecoed, and primed, and
glued
> (a nice epoxy) them to each tip, nut plates went on next and I now have
> perfect looking fiberglass tips that I can remove for inspections, and
they
> do look very professional , the only thing that worries me is how offten
can
> I remove the screw that goes into the nut plate, and do I realy have to
take
> the emp tips off for each inspection, what I've goten myself into is if
the
> tips were riveted then I would not be able to remove them, so what I'm
> asking is should the tips ever be removed?
>
> Thanks
> Ken
> RV-9A
> emp,wings dec 10
> lyc 0-290-d 0smh
> Long Island NY
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Randy J. Pflanzer <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 7:00 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass tips
>
>
> >
> > Ken,
> >
> > Two points on adding the fiberglass tips. I would screw them on with
the
> > small #4 screws and nutplates rather than pop rivets and bondo. No so
> much
> > because of the weight, but the screws look more professional IMHO and
will
> > look nicer longer. Also, the bondo will eventually crack along the
joint
> > line and you will get a small line anyway. At this crack, the paint and
> > bondo can chip off. Also, the screws and nutplates are actually easier
> and
> > take less time to do. I pop riveted mine on and I wish I hadn't.
> >
> > Second, if you want to close the gap, do the following. Mount all the
> > screws and nutplates. Lay ONE layer of duct tape over the aluminum
making
> > sure to go over the edge and around the backside slightly. Mount the
tip
> > and screw it down. Cover the screws. Force bondo/filler material of
your
> > choice in the crack. Once hardened, sand with 80 grit sandpaper down to
> the
> > duct tape. Use care to not go through the tape but sand the surface
down
> as
> > far as you can. Then remove the tip and tape. Finish sand the part and
> > slightly round the edge. I use 240 grit wet/dry. That should give you
a
> > nice straight and even edge along the entire joint line.
> >
> > Randy Pflanzer N417G
> > RV-6 Indianapolis (93 hours)
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: kcskiflyer <klwski1(at)pouch.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2000 8:53 PM
> > Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass tips
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I'm going to finnish the fiberglass on my RV-9A emp this weekend and
was
> > > wondering how I should close up the gap between the glass and the
> > aluminum,
> > > should I glass it, "bondo" it, or what? The fairings will not have to
> come
> > > off ( no lights or antenni) whats the best looking way to do this.
I've
> > > painted many cars and several boats all with some body work involved
so
> > I'm
> > > not afraid to make the whole thing smooth. I don't want to make it
> heavey
> > > and slow and I wan't some of that RV speed out of this machine, any
> > > sugestions would help.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > Ken
> > > RV-9A
> > > emp, wings Dec 10th
> > > Lyc 0-290-D 0SMOH
> > > Long Island NY
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | AeroElectric's New Order Policy |
Bob,
Please say it's not so!
Credit Card Purchases Only?
Over unsecured internet connection?
No mail-in, telephone, or fax orders?
This can't be happening . . . :(
RE Miller
80153 Ready to oder all kinds of electrical stuff.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: Extracting stubborn screw |
If you can find a left hand drill bit, they sometimes while drilling will
back the screw out.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roy L. Glass and Mary L. Poteet" <rlglass(at)alaska.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2000 7:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Extracting stubborn screw
>
> Before you drill it out, try using a "T" handle screw driver. I got mine
> at Sears (Craftsman Grip Driver, it ratchets, too). You can put a lot of
> pressure on the screw and it may back out without any trouble.
>
> Roy Glass - Anchorage, AK RV-6, priming elevator contol tubes
>
> Stephen Johnson wrote:
> >
> >
> > I need to remove the tank on my wing after trial fitting it, and one of
the
> > #8 screws refuses to budge. I've managed to mangle the head by now.
Drill
> > it out? Other ideas?
> >
> > Steve Johnson
> > RV-8 #80121
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: -8A Rear Seat Rudder Kit |
Bill,
You are right. That is totally different than mine. When I ordered a set
for my -8A I got same as all the -8. Actually, looking at yours, if I had
got those I would not have been able to install the fuel gauge down low.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
IT FLYS!!!!
>From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)peoplepc.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: ,
>Subject: RV-List: -8A Rear Seat Rudder Kit
>Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2000 09:35:27 -0700
>
>
>Hi all...
>
>I just got the rear seat rudder pedal kit for my -8A, and it is quite
>different than for the -8... I was under the impression they were similar,
>if not the same... I have published a couple pictures on EGroups:
>
>http://www.egroups.com/files/rv8list/-8A+Rear+Seat+Rudder+Pedals/
>
>Later...
>
>Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
>RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
>http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: -8A Rear Seat Rudder Kit |
Bill,
You are right. That is totally different than mine. When I ordered a set
for my -8A I got same as all the -8. Actually, looking at yours, if I had
got those I would not have been able to install the fuel gauge down low.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
IT FLYS!!!!
>From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)peoplepc.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: ,
>Subject: RV-List: -8A Rear Seat Rudder Kit
>Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2000 09:35:27 -0700
>
>
>Hi all...
>
>I just got the rear seat rudder pedal kit for my -8A, and it is quite
>different than for the -8... I was under the impression they were similar,
>if not the same... I have published a couple pictures on EGroups:
>
>http://www.egroups.com/files/rv8list/-8A+Rear+Seat+Rudder+Pedals/
>
>Later...
>
>Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
>RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
>http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Daniel Estrada F." <dani_estrada(at)infosel.net.mx> |
Subject: | Is it realy necessary...? |
Hello listers:
I have a new questions:
Is it really necessary to buy a "3m Scitch-Brit Deburring Wheel...? or
Can I only use a "Speed Deburring&C'sinking Tool"...?
the difference. The PRICE..!!!
thanks
Daniel Estrada
Mxico City
RV6A Empenage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
I am proud to announce that there now another Van's RV-8A to add to the
finished and flown category. N809Rs took off from the Honolulu
International Airport at 4:30 PM, Friday, November 3, 2000, for her first
flight.
On this first flight she trued out at 156Kts at 23 squared. She was so
stable on her first flight that the pilot, a former competitive aerobatic
gentleman, went ahead and looped and rolled her. Neither I nor my partner
have any RV time and we got an offer from this gentleman, so we decided that
discression being the better part of valor, we accepted his offer.
She flew for 1.3 hours with 3 minor discrepancies. Both trims needed some
adjustment and the oil temp was a bit on the high side. Max oil temp was
225 and settled down to 218 in cruise. Not unexpected, as we have the
Positech oil cooler installed. All cylinder head and Temps and EGTs were in
the green on the low side. All pressure were right on the money. So its
time to get a Stuart Warner and replace it, me thinks. As the engine is a
zero time we may fly it a little to make sure but go ahead and order a new
one anyways.
Gentleman, I don't care if I didn't get the first flight, the RV grin was
still there. It is truely a wonderous sight to see something you have built
takeoff for the first time whether you are in it or on the ground. But, of
course, now I can look forward to the rest of the flying.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
What can I add, IT FLYs!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David & Betty Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
Subject: | Re: -8A Rear Seat Rudder Kit |
Congratulations Mike! How about telling us how the first (and subsequent)
flights went?
Mike Robertson wrote:
>
> Bill,
> You are right. That is totally different than mine. When I ordered a set
> for my -8A I got same as all the -8. Actually, looking at yours, if I had
> got those I would not have been able to install the fuel gauge down low.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A N809RS
> IT FLYS!!!!
>
> >From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)peoplepc.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: ,
> >Subject: RV-List: -8A Rear Seat Rudder Kit
> >Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2000 09:35:27 -0700
> >
> >
> >Hi all...
> >
> >I just got the rear seat rudder pedal kit for my -8A, and it is quite
> >different than for the -8... I was under the impression they were similar,
> >if not the same... I have published a couple pictures on EGroups:
> >
> >http://www.egroups.com/files/rv8list/-8A+Rear+Seat+Rudder+Pedals/
> >
> >Later...
> >
> >Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
> >RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
> >http://vondane.com/rv8a/
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rvator97(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Is it realy necessary...? |
In a message dated 11/4/00 7:23:19 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dani_estrada(at)infosel.net.mx writes:
<< Is it really necessary to buy a "3m Scitch-Brit Deburring Wheel...? or
Can I only use a "Speed Deburring&C'sinking Tool"...? >>
1) YES!
2) Don't understand the question!
BTW: Since you are obviously "into" the RV project... and prepared to invest
$40,000 + to complete it.... why sweat the little stuff? The job will be
SOOO much easier with the right tools. Get em all!
Good luck,
Walt RV-6A N79WH 375hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Is it realy necessary...? |
>
>
>Hello listers:
>
>I have a new questions:
>
>Is it really necessary to buy a "3m Scitch-Brit Deburring Wheel...? or
>Can I only use a "Speed Deburring&C'sinking Tool"...?
>
>the difference. The PRICE..!!!
>
>thanks
>
>
>Daniel Estrada
>Mxico City
>RV6A Empenage
>
Well, it probably isn't 100% essential, as you could build the plane
without it. But it will save you a huge amount of time, so I would
buy it.
I use it for much more than just deburing the edges of skins. It
gets used a lot for polishing the edges of pieces that you make from
angle or other stock. You will make a lot of pieces, using a
bandsaw, hacksaw, cutoff wheel, or whatever you use. Those cut edges
need to be smoothed down, and the ScotchBrite wheel is by far the
fastest way to do it. I suppose you could use a file, or sandpaper
to do this, but it would take forever.
ScotchBrite wheels come in a lot of different compositions. You want
the one marked "CP-7AM". A big one mounted on a bench grinder will
last the whole project, if you are careful not to wear too many deep
grooves in it. There may be cheaper equivalents from other vendors,
but I don't know about them.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Extracting stubborn screw |
Kyle,
That's just what I ended up doing. The original post did generate some
insightful replies which should be generally helpful.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2000 1:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Extracting stubborn screw
> In a message dated 11/4/00 11:47:29 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com writes:
>
> > I need to remove the tank on my wing after trial fitting it, and one of
the
> > #8 screws refuses to budge. I've managed to mangle the head by now.
Drill
> > it out? Other ideas?
> >
> > Steve Johnson
> > RV-8 #80121
>
> Steve,
>
> I had one of those too. I drilled the head off of the screw, removed the
> tank, then changed out the plate nut.
>
> Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
> RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
Congratulations on your new "baby". Hope all continues to go well!
Marty in Brentwood TN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2000 11:28 AM
Subject: RV-List: It Flys!!
>
> I am proud to announce that there now another Van's RV-8A to add to the
> finished and flown category. N809Rs took off from the Honolulu
> International Airport at 4:30 PM, Friday, November 3, 2000, for her first
> flight.
>
> On this first flight she trued out at 156Kts at 23 squared. She was so
> stable on her first flight that the pilot, a former competitive aerobatic
> gentleman, went ahead and looped and rolled her. Neither I nor my partner
> have any RV time and we got an offer from this gentleman, so we decided
that
> discression being the better part of valor, we accepted his offer.
>
> She flew for 1.3 hours with 3 minor discrepancies. Both trims needed some
> adjustment and the oil temp was a bit on the high side. Max oil temp was
> 225 and settled down to 218 in cruise. Not unexpected, as we have the
> Positech oil cooler installed. All cylinder head and Temps and EGTs were
in
> the green on the low side. All pressure were right on the money. So its
> time to get a Stuart Warner and replace it, me thinks. As the engine is a
> zero time we may fly it a little to make sure but go ahead and order a new
> one anyways.
>
> Gentleman, I don't care if I didn't get the first flight, the RV grin was
> still there. It is truely a wonderous sight to see something you have
built
> takeoff for the first time whether you are in it or on the ground. But,
of
> course, now I can look forward to the rest of the flying.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A N809RS
> What can I add, IT FLYs!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Mike,
Congratulations!!!!!! We all are proud of you and share in your joy.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L.Nuckolls III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: AeroElectric's New Order Policy |
>
>Bob,
>
>Please say it's not so!
>
>Credit Card Purchases Only?
>
>Over unsecured internet connection?
>
>No mail-in, telephone, or fax orders?
>
>This can't be happening . . . :(
"Secure" means more expense and adds no security
for the #1 means for compromising credit card data. My
computers are logged onto a cable-modem account 24 hours
a day and without firewalls and dedicated usage of the bookkeeping
machine to avoid trojan horses, I'd have several thousand good
credit card numbers hanging out there in the breeze. I'm a
one person operation with a daytime job and a wife who's
time is better spent working on a PhD than on licking stamps
and stuffing boxes. My choices are, streamline operations
or shut 'em down. For the moment, I'm choosing to streamline.
Looking for credit card numbers out on the net is like standing
at the bottom of Niagra Falls with a teacup waiting to catch
10 molecules of red water that are going to come down sometime
in the next ten minutes. Worries for "lack of a secure site" are as
valid as the Y2K concerns of a few months back . . . it
made a lot of scare-mongers a lot of money.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: AeroElectric's New Order Policy |
In a message dated 11/5/2000 12:12:40 AM Central Standard Time,
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com writes:
<< "Secure" means more expense and adds no security
for the #1 means for compromising credit card data. My
computers are logged onto a cable-modem account 24 hours
a day and without firewalls and dedicated usage of the bookkeeping
machine to avoid trojan horses, I'd have several thousand good
credit card numbers hanging out there in the breeze. I'm a
one person operation with a daytime job and a wife who's
time is better spent working on a PhD than on licking stamps
and stuffing boxes. My choices are, streamline operations
or shut 'em down. For the moment, I'm choosing to streamline.
>>
Well, I hate to say this as I was going to start ordering from you in the
spring when my F1 rocket was futher along, but if you running on a cable
modem with no firewall, i am not going to ever place an order with you. I
have a cable modem for our network , and insurance and investment firm. We
have both a hardware firewall and software firewalls. We average 1-2 trojan
horses attempting to come into the net work daily. We also average 10-25
other aunothorized accesses per day. We don't know what these are. Also we
found out that alot of programs on our computers dial out to update when they
want to.
We didnt have a firewall. We were taken down by a virus in less then 2 weeks
after we installed the cable modem to the LAN.
Chris wilcox
F1 rocket 000
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
Subject: | Re: Builders Seminars |
Robin,
I went to one of the Sportair ones for Van's aircraft. I had built up cars,
maintained a 911S for 17 years, and maintained the Navy's aircraft for 10
years, however, no sheet metal experience! I feel it was worthwhile as I
somehow managed to rivet the flap section with a quite obvious warp in it. I
have since built the tail and wings without warps (RV8A). I would recommend
one if you haven't done sheet metal work before.
Bill Christie, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Keller" <rwkeller(at)pacbell.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2000 1:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: Builders Seminars
>
> Having almost succumbed to the lure of building my own airplane, I'm
> curious about how many of you attended a builders seminar before you
> started on your building adventure.
>
> I consider myself reasonably. I rebuilt an English sports car in my
> youth - no mean feat - and had less than a full coffee can of "spare"
> parts when I was finished. Watching the e-mail on this list server has
> been terrific. But I do wonder if I have the knowledge to pull this off
> without a little education at the beginning.
>
> There are a number of seminars advertised on the Van's site. Has anyone
> had any recent experience they would like to share?
>
> robin keller
> Cherokee N7324W and RV-6 hopeful
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
Subject: | Who Is Matt(e) Dralle?? (Part deax) |
Well I have to assume that if you are reading this you have already made
your contribution in support of the RV-List at :
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
Or by mail at:
List Contribution
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
So read on...........................
If you recall, Matt had just given his IC-A22's which he had invented to
some guy at the airport who worked for ICOM, a fertilizer manufacturer,
and went home to play with his new Commadore computer...........
Well on the way home Matt got a ride from one of his friends....Matt has a
LOT of friends, just ask JPI, so anyway he got this ride from a friend and
before they reached Matt's house his friend ran out of gas. Well Matt,
being the good friend he is, volunteered to get his friend some gas. So off
he went to the nearest gas station. Upon arriving at the gas station Matt
plunked down his last $3.85 that he had saved for some new software for his
Commadore to buy a new gas can and 5 gallons of gas. (This was a long time
ago in a galaxy far, far away when gas was cheap!) Yes even way back then
Matt would put up his own money to help a friend and not expect a thing
back for all that he did. Well this friend being the fine upstanding decent
person that he was and also a nice guy too, gave Matt his $3.85 back and
even threw in an extra $1.15 to make it an even $5.00. Matt was beside
himself. He had learned a great lesson this day! IF YOU DO GOOD THINGS FOR
GOOD PEOPLE, THEY WILL RESPOND IN A POSITIVE WAY! (Of course there is the
occasional person who won't, but Matt doesn't know anyone like that.) Matt
learned that he could bank on this lesson over the years. Good people can
be counted on! So Matt took his $5.00 and bought some real high powered
software for his brand new Commadore so he could do good things to help his
FRIENDS THAT HE JUST KNEW HE COULD COUNT ON! (Not so subtle hint here......)
With his most recent experiences at the ball game and the airport Matt knew
what he had to do......so he took his new Commadore and software and
started working out calculations on fuel flow so his friends wouldn't have
to run out of gas any more. Matt deduced that if he could calculate the
fuel burn of a given engine and when and how much fuel was added at any
given time, one could calculate exactly when one would run out of gas.
WOW................Matt really had something this time!!!! A useful
instrument that would keep his friends (WHO HE JUST KNEW HE COULD COUNT ON)
from running out of gas. Never again would Matt's friends be stranded in
the middle of nowhere. So Matt developed his new fuel quantity tracking
system. But what would he call it? Matt decided to call it the Fuel Supply
Calculator And Nomograph. (Look it up, I burned up the Scrabble dictionary
for that one!)
So Matt took his new invention to his friends who promptly reminded him
that there were times when running out of gas was exactly what they wanted
to do and with Matt's Fuel Supply Calculator and Nomograph (FuelScan for
short) they wouldn't have any excuses to tell their girl friends fathers
when they ran out of gas. So once again dejected, Matt tried to give his
FuelScan to one of his friends named J. P. I'mbigerthanyou who turned it
down with a laugh and upturned nose. "Hmmmm... maybe all "friends" can't be
counted on!", Matt thought. So Matt shelved the FuelScan for
reconsideration and application latter on. (Matt is a very analytical kind
of guy)
Matt was at a point where he was desperate to invent something for all of
his FRIENDS THAT HE COULD COUNT ON. Something that they would find very
useful. Something that they would like and use and it would help them save
money. Most of Matt's friends didn't have a lot of money and built many of
the things that they had with their own two hands, just like Matt. Matt
wasn't in the top 1% of wage earners who pay most of the taxes. He hadn't
won lifes lottery yet but he sure was trying!
So Matt went back to his Commadore computer for some more inspiration.....
Okay, if you haven't contributed yet, how about being one of Matt's real
friends and scroll back to the top of this message and get to it..............
To be continued.........................(Unfortunately!!) AL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Re: AeroElectric's New Order Policy |
I must have missed Mr. Nuckolls original posting as I'm afraid I cannot
decipher his last posting. So is it true that he is only accepting credit
card numbers over the net? If so, too bad, as I was going to order some
stuff from him, but I will never give out my card number over cyberspace.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q instrument panel and wiring stuff
Seattle area
>
> "Secure" means more expense and adds no security
> for the #1 means for compromising credit card data. My
> computers are logged onto a cable-modem account 24 hours
> a day and without firewalls and dedicated usage of the bookkeeping
> machine to avoid trojan horses, I'd have several thousand good
> credit card numbers hanging out there in the breeze. I'm a
> one person operation with a daytime job and a wife who's
> time is better spent working on a PhD than on licking stamps
> and stuffing boxes. My choices are, streamline operations
> or shut 'em down. For the moment, I'm choosing to streamline.
>
> Looking for credit card numbers out on the net is like standing
> at the bottom of Niagra Falls with a teacup waiting to catch
> 10 molecules of red water that are going to come down sometime
> in the next ten minutes. Worries for "lack of a secure site" are as
> valid as the Y2K concerns of a few months back . . . it
> made a lot of scare-mongers a lot of money.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bruce Stewart <bruces(at)shoalhaven.net.au> |
Hi All,
theres not been much traffic so its time to
fess up on whats going on! :-)
OK who's done what and when?
Here in the land of Oz I went to a place called
Wedderburn (near Sydney) on Sunday and helped a
friend install a GPS in his RV 4, it was also an open day
for the NSW Sport Aircraft Club where the usual stuff
went on, it was interesting to see the line up of aircraft
however I can't help feeling a little out of place as
the average age of people attending seemed to be about
20 to 30 years older then me!! (I'm 36).
Bruce
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
Subject: | Builders Seminars |
> From: Robin Keller <rwkeller(at)pacbell.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Builders Seminars
>
>
> Having almost succumbed to the lure of building my own airplane, I'm
> curious about how many of you attended a builders seminar before you
> started on your building adventure.
This time last year, I was where you are...on the verge of ordering the tail kit.
(I'm not much farther along now, but that's another story!!!!!! :-) .
Just some random thoughts...
I attended a weekend SportAir sheet metal workshop down in Lakeland, FL a year
ago. I was down there on business anyway, so I took an extra vacation day and
went. My experience in working with tools and such was almost nil, and at the
time I did not know of any builders close by enough to be able to easily look
at their projects and see how
things were done (I might add that the good folks at the RV Factory in Columbia,
SC took me under their wings one Saturday and showed me around their shop and
gave me a whole bunch of hints, which helped tremendously. Unfortunately, they're
2 1/2 hours away...they have one hell of a setup!).
I'd debated whether or not the seminar would be worth the $279 it cost me. For
me, I think it was, because of my lack of prior experience and because I couldn't
find anyone close with a project (I have, since then). The seminar was decent...I
still have the mini-projects I worked on to remind me of the mistakes
I made. :-) If you go to a
Sportair workshop, I'd recommend the sheet-metal seminar, and not the RV seminar.
The latter covers a lot of other information besides metal-work that you can
find out for yourself through the archives on this list and other builders'
websites...the sheet-metal workshop allows you a lot more hands-on tin-bending
and riveting time than the RV
workshop. They also do workshops on other subjects, including electrical/avionics
(which I've been told is good for the neophyte..but if you're fortunate enough
to get to one of "Electric Bob's" seminars, GO!).
Having said that...I've heard that the seminars and assistance that the Orndorffs,
Averys, and a gent up in the Northwest named Henry (don't remember his last
name) are excellent. They go into the details of constructing an RV, whereas
the Sportair sheet-metal workshop is generic. EAA has begun to hold RV workshops,
I don't know about them.
So...in order of preference (and depending on the amount of $$ you have available)...I'd recommend 1) looking over other builders' shoulders and helping them with their project (check out White Pages on Van's Air Force - World-Wide Wing web site at http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/vaf.htm to find builders near you), or 2) the Sportair workshop or
other workshops.
> consider myself reasonably. I rebuilt an English sports car in my
> youth - no mean feat - and had less than a full coffee can of "spare"
> parts when I was finished. Watching the e-mail on this list server has
> been terrific. But I do wonder if I have the knowledge to pull this off
> without a little education at the beginning.
If you've done that, you have the talent to build an airplane.
Good luck...go for it!
John Lawson
RV-6 (waiting on trim tab parts...deburring and straightening out wing ribs in
the meantime)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV6-List: List Fund Raiser Continues... |
From: | "E. D. Yoes" <eyoes(at)stic.net> |
On Fri, Nov 3, 2000 11:33 AM, M. Drallle wrote:
>Won't you make a Contribution via US Mail to the
>address also listed below.
> c/o Matt Dralle
> Matronics
> P.O. Box 347
> Livermore, CA 94551
I mailed a check to that address about two months
ago and it has not cleared yet.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Bob's post:
> > computers are logged onto a cable-modem account 24 hours
> > a day and without firewalls and dedicated usage of the bookkeeping
> > machine to avoid trojan horses, I'd have several thousand good
> > credit card numbers hanging out there in the breeze
A reply to his post:
> Well, I hate to say this as I was going to start ordering from you in the
> spring when my F1 rocket was futher along, but if you running on a cable
> modem with no firewall, i am not going to ever place an order with you.
Yet another post:
> It looks to me like Bob was saying that he DOES have a firewall. Maybe
Bob
> could clear it up for us.
Nothing needs to be cleared up, except for people to be able to read. Bob's
original post above makes it crystal clear. It is one thing to
misunderstand something, quite another to base a slam against someone's
business on it.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: AeroElectric's New Order Policy |
>
>Well, I hate to say this as I was going to start ordering from you in the
>spring when my F1 rocket was futher along, but if you running on a cable
>modem with no firewall, i am not going to ever place an order with you.
You didn't read the note . . . I DO have a firewall . . several of
them as a matter of fact. I could give you the IP number of that
machine right now and (1) it's going to be a different IP number
some time later today and (2) even if you probed it, you would
not get an acknowledgement that it exists and (3)
the machine that hosts our bookkeeping doesn't even have a browser
or newsreader on it, it's never used to download anything
from the net, and it never runs any sofware not specifically
targeted at the task of taking care of business
I do NOT have a secure website because of the costs of adding and
maintaining that service where the purpose is only to encrypt a
flow of lots of data (only 16 bytes of which are your credit card
number) which is mixed into an incalculable flow of other data
on then net for the few milliseconds it takes to make its journey
out on the net.
While technically feasable to lurk on a T3 line somewhere and
watch for credit card numbers to fly by, why do it? Get a job
as a waiter for a few weeks and you can have hundreds of
perfectly good numbers and you don't need a machine like our
government has perfected (Carnivore) to eavesdrop on public
net-conversation. Why go to the expense of picking needles
out of the haystack when you can open a tap that will produce
lots of good numbers and you even get PAID for it! Thieves
may be dishonest but they're not stupid.
October 31, 2000 - November 06, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-jo