RV-Archive.digest.vol-jq
November 11, 2000 - November 19, 2000
benefits or the shield (noise rduction) without the potential of 'ground
loops.'
This is grossly oversimplified & I'm sure others can give a better
technical explanation, but hopefully this will give you a general idea.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Electric Trim Authority |
Hi Dennis,
I was breaking in a new set of rings today and did a couple of circles
around Casa De Aero but didn't see you punching any holes in the ground.
Did you use a govenor with your electric trim? I going to have to change to
the MAC 4a servo w/travel reducer in order to get my trim to work. Because
of the short hinge to horn distance on my "hidden" setup (.5") I'm going to
need to slow the servo down as much as possible. I'm concerned that I'll
have to slow it to much and it will not have enough voltage to apply the
force necessary to activate the servo in flight.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Electric Trim Authority |
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com>
Date: Saturday, November 11, 2000 8:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator Electric Trim Authority
>
[Edited for brevity]
>The other issue is one of sensitivity. Unless you use a speed control it
>is already difficult to make very precise adjustments at cruise speeds.
>Shortening the arm would just make it worse.
>
>
>The new RV-9A prototype has electric trim which is connected through one
>of the Matronics speed controls. With the way I have it currently
>adjusted it is great for tweaking the pitch trim at max. cruise speed but
>it is a bit slower than I would like while flying in the pattern.
>Particularly in a situation such as a go-around with the trim set for a
>power off glide with full flaps.
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
>North Plains, OR
>These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
>reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
I believe the problem is common to the 6A as well. The MAC 8A servo is
spec'd at 19 seconds travel for full displacement. I find that in my 6A
this is painfully slow during a go-around or touch-and-go. Yet at cruise it
is too sensitive. When I initiate a go-around or touch-and-go with full
noseup trim for landing, the plane pitches up and requires about 4 lbs of
down stick force to maintain a reasonable pitch attitude. I made the
mistake of installing the supplied momentary contact flap switch and I don't
have enough hands to hold the stick, the throttle, milk the flaps and adjust
the trim all at the same time. Sure the plane climbs fine with full
flaps -- the problem is you can quickly bust the Vfe flap extension speed!
The control stick grip with flaps and trim switches has advantages that I
was not aware of until I flew my plane. After 2300 hours in a C172 where it
is possible to take off, cruise and land with only minor trim changes, the
6A is a challenge to fly with precision. I am thankful that I have an
experienced mentor with lots of RV time to help me transition.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | (I)O-360 High Pressure Pump |
I'm converting my O-360-A1A to an IO and am about to order a high pressure
pump, Lycoming part No. LW15473. AC Spruce has this pump but show two
different versions with the same Lycoming part No. They show their part No.
41234, then a part No. 41272 which they say can be used on A/C who formerly
used low pressure, which I guess would apply to me. Does anyone know the
difference between the two? I thought the same pump would fit both the 200
hp angle valve IO-360 and the 180 hp parallel valve engines.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 instrument panel
Seattle area
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald R. Eaves" <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Help-Sensenich installation challenge |
Mike:
I had the same problem - Short of a crush plate - I thought I would have to
do that also - So I used some thicker (about 1/8 inch) larger diameter
(about 1 inch) steel washers. I found them at Home Depot. Look for the
thickest. They were about 1/8" thick. I had to search for them because
they, the thickest ones, were mixed together with the same size diameter.
Go figure - Anyway that did the trick.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michael McGee
Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2000 6:17 PM
Subject: RV-List: Help-Sensenich installation challenge
Okay, I just trashed my new front spinner bulkhead while trying to
torque the prop bolts.
I have an O-320 with 7/16 prop bolts and the installation instructions says
to torque to 480-540 inch pounds.
This squeezed the metal under the bolts on the front spinner bulkhead
enough to completely distort it. I tried working the metal flat again and
re drilling the holes then using larger washers but it did the same thing
again. I think my first mistake was using the small diameter washers that
were supplied with the bolts.
In retrospect, of course this much bolt torque is going to extrude the
soft aluminum. I'm now at a loss as to how big the washers need to be so I
don't have to try it a third time.
You guys with 1/2" bolts on the O-360's, have you had this
problem? Surely I don't need a crush plate for the aluminum bulkhead do I?
Thanks in advance for the help.
Mike
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Aurora, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: instrument panel angle support |
In a message dated 11/11/00 9:31:22 PM Eastern Standard Time,
bubba(at)coastalnet.com writes:
> I've got the instrument panel fitted to the f-6106 forward skin and am ready
> to prepare the angle support that joins panel and skin. I've come upon some
> inconsistencies, however, that I'd like to clear up before I proceed. I
want
> to attach the panel to the angle with screws and nutplates so it will be
> removable, but the instructions say to use #6 screws while the plans call
> for #8 screws. The plans also call for using a KS-1000-08 nutplate. What
> does the "s" mean? I've got lots with just a "k."
>
> The plans also call for 2.5" spacing when using screws/nutplates. This
would
> mean that there would only be a screw in every other flange cut into the
> angle. Does this work ok? It wouldn't kill me to put a screw/nutplate
> (repeat after me - I love nutplates!) in every notched flange, but I'd love
> to know what others have done. One more thing - can I just drill this thing
> for -3 rivets to the top skin? After spending what seems like enough time
to
> hand count all the votes in you-know-where to fit this darn panel, I don't
> want to screw it up now.
>
> as usual, thanks
>
> Robert Dickson
Robert,
I used #8 screws on 2.5" nominal spacing. Seems to work fine.
I used -3 rivets to rivet the angle to the top skin. Again, seems to work
fine.
I used whatever #8 platenuts I had on hand. Nothing special.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Bandsaw Recommendation |
Listers,
I'm looking for a good bandsaw for wood and metal work. My variable speed
Sears tabletop saw died the other day (the archives mention that someone else
had the same failure sometime back) and I want a full size, variable speed
bandsaw going forward.
For about $130, I can get another variable speed benchtop saw (e.g. a
disposable bandsaw), but I'd like something nicer. However, the only saws
I've found that meet my description are $500+, which is too much. I'm hoping
to come up with a nice saw for $300 or less.
Anyone have a suggestion?
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug.Gray(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Electric Trim Authority |
> What is the distance from tab hinge center line to hole center in the horn?
> My preview plans showing electric elevator trim don't give that dimension.
> It is two inches on drawing 5a for the manual trim system. I'd like to try a
> shorter horn with my Gretz trim.
> Thanks.
> Denis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 11 hours
> Hampshire, IL C38
>
Denis,
Sorry, my plans do not show dimensions on either the manual or electric
version nor are they full size. The ratio between the two is
approximately 3:4, measuring off the drawing. This was approximately
consistent with the 1.4" for the electric and 1.9" for manual mentioned
in the MAC servo literature. My trim tab is difficult to get to at the
moment, but I would suggest if 2" is indicated on your plans, then
1.4-1.5 would be in the ball park.
Scott McD. comments about arbitarily reducing the length of the horn. I
don't think anyone is planning to do this, we just need to replicate the
precise length Vans intended.
In terms of servo force, one of the N58RV RV-8 accident reports
(LAX98FA171) documented the trim force likely to be required and the
force the servo was able to produce. "The air load on the elevator trim
control arm at 160mph was calculated .... as 27.07 lbs, and at 190mph
40.93 lbs..... The actuator is rated at 100lbs" I would suppose that
this is with the short (electric) trim horn.
If nothing else make certain that there is full and free movement in the
trim tab mechanics. The servo must find its internal end stop before the
horn or clevis bind. The 100 lbs actuator force might well jam the
cable/horn or snap the nylon clevis. A trim tab flapping in the breeze
might well ruin your day, especially if you were already pushing or
pulling the stick with 4 or 5 lbs of force.
Doug Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wes.Hays(at)matronics.com |
Listers,
I have a friend who is wanting to sell his single place EAA Biplane so he
can start on an RV-9 kit. If anyone is interested, or you know of anyone
interested, I know he would appreciate you passing this along.
He is asking $10,000. If you are interested, please contact
Bill Baldwin
915.573.9569
800.588.2455
e-mail: bilb(at)nwol.net
Thanks,
Wes Hays
Rotan, TX
RV6-A, 0-360 w/CS (Hartzell)
N844WB, Ready for inspection.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin.Horton(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Dollies |
>
>There are several on my site. Look under "Titanic"
>
>www.dmack.net
>
>Don Mack
Don,
I'm having trouble with the menu items on your main RV-6A page. I've
tried three different browsers on my Mac (iCab 2.2a, Microsoft
Internet Explorer 5.0 and Netscape Communicator 4.76). Another menu
pops up when I put the mouse over an item in Internet Explorer, but
not in the other two browsers. But, nothing happens when I click on
an item.
Maybe this is some kind of Mac-only issue, or maybe it isn't. Just
thought you might want to know.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old.ogre(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Re: Bandsaw Recommendation |
have you tried harbor freight?...SOMETIMES you can find a good deal there...do
not archive
KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm looking for a good bandsaw for wood and metal work. My variable speed
> Sears tabletop saw died the other day (the archives mention that someone else
> had the same failure sometime back) and I want a full size, variable speed
> bandsaw going forward.
>
> For about $130, I can get another variable speed benchtop saw (e.g. a
> disposable bandsaw), but I'd like something nicer. However, the only saws
> I've found that meet my description are $500+, which is too much. I'm hoping
> to come up with a nice saw for $300 or less.
>
> Anyone have a suggestion?
>
> Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
> RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Electric Trim Authority |
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Nellis
Date: Saturday, November 11, 2000 10:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator Electric Trim Authority
>
>Did you use a govenor with your electric trim? I going to have to change
to
>the MAC 4a servo w/travel reducer in order to get my trim to work. Because
>of the short hinge to horn distance on my "hidden" setup (.5") I'm going
to
>need to slow the servo down as much as possible. I'm concerned that I'll
>have to slow it to much and it will not have enough voltage to apply the
>force necessary to activate the servo in flight.
>
>Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
>Plainfield, IL
Mike: I suggest you make contact with Matt Dralle before changing servos.
It may be that the shorter travel unit is just as fast as the longer one (or
faster). Longer ago than I like to think, Matt advised me that his speed
reducer provided for full output torque to the Mac servo from about 90%
speed ( the max available with his setup) down to about 35% speed. Below
that speed available torque diminished, as I recall, more or less linearly.
The Mac speed control provides decreasing torque all the way. At least it
did at that time.
I support Scott McDaniels request for the ability to change servo speed as
airspeed varies. I am setting up electric trim for my -8 and it may well
benefit from that capability. I don't know about the aileron trim.
Probably not necessary. Electric Bob has spoken about 2 speed servos for
certain production aircraft so you might also talk to him. I definitely
plan to use Matronics speed controllers.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Electric Trim Authority |
-----Original Message-----
From: Doug.Gray(at)matronics.com
Date: Sunday, November 12, 2000 6:08 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator Electric Trim Authority
>
>> What is the distance from tab hinge center line to hole center in the
horn?
>> My preview plans showing electric elevator trim don't give that
dimension.
>> It is two inches on drawing 5a for the manual trim system. I'd like to
try a
>> shorter horn with my Gretz trim.
>> Thanks.
>> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 11 hours
>> Hampshire, IL C38
>>
>Dennis,
>Sorry, my plans do not show dimensions on either the manual or electric
>version nor are they full size. The ratio between the two is
>approximately 3:4, measuring off the drawing. This was approximately
>consistent with the 1.4" for the electric and 1.9" for manual mentioned
>in the MAC servo literature. My trim tab is difficult to get to at the
>moment, but I would suggest if 2" is indicated on your plans, then
>1.4-1.5 would be in the ball park.
>
>Scott McD. comments about arbitarily reducing the length of the horn. I
>don't think anyone is planning to do this, we just need to replicate the
>precise length Vans intended.
>
>In terms of servo force, one of the N58RV RV-8 accident reports
>(LAX98FA171) documented the trim force likely to be required and the
>force the servo was able to produce. "The air load on the elevator trim
>control arm at 160mph was calculated .... as 27.07 lbs, and at 190mph
>40.93 lbs..... The actuator is rated at 100lbs" I would suppose that
>this is with the short (electric) trim horn.
>
>If nothing else make certain that there is full and free movement in the
>trim tab mechanics. The servo must find its internal end stop before the
>horn or clevis bind. The 100 lbs actuator force might well jam the
>cable/horn or snap the nylon clevis. A trim tab flapping in the breeze
>might well ruin your day, especially if you were already pushing or
>pulling the stick with 4 or 5 lbs of force.
>
>Doug Gray
>
Doug,
Thanks for the inputs. I was not aware that the trim tab design had
changed. I will be very interested to see what the latest drawings call out
in terms of pivot radius on the horn and structural attachment.
I found the report you cited informative. I would never have guessed that
the trim tab actuator arm loads would be so high. It makes me very hesitant
to change anything in that area! Scott McD's caution is certainly
appropriate, and we listers should be grateful that he is here to help us
build safe airplanes!
From http://www.itsasafety.org/Aviation/LAX/lnarr_98A171.htm
"The air load on the elevator trim control arm at 160 mph was calculated by
the kit manufacturer as 27.07 pounds. At 190 mph, the load was calculated as
40.93 pounds. The stick forces that the pilot would need to exert in order
to neutralize the down loads generated on the elevator in level flight were
calculated as 24 pounds at 160 mph and 29 pounds at 190 mph.
The trim actuator was functionally tested and inspected at Menzimer Aircraft
Components, in Vista, California."
After reading that I'm glad I have installed an emergency trim runaway
switch right beside the trim control. When you're used to applying a few
ounces of force and find yourself needing to apply 41 pounds, it could be
stressful.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 11 hours (and waiting for ceilings
to lift)
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Electric Trim Authority |
From report:
>"The stick forces that the pilot would need to exert in order
>to neutralize the down loads generated on the elevator in level flight were
>calculated as 24 pounds at 160 mph and 29 pounds at 190 mph."
>
Dennis wrote (in error):
>After reading that I'm glad I have installed an emergency trim runaway
>switch right beside the trim control. When you're used to applying a few
>ounces of force and find yourself needing to apply 41 pounds, it could be
>stressful.
ERROR! I'm sorry for the error in the previous post -- the stick force would
only be 29 pounds, and not 41 pounds as I wrote. I've got to supress the
urge to hit the SEND key before editing!
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 11 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | meketa(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Electric Trim Authority |
Hello Yall
A variable speed trim system would be easy to install or add to many
existing systems. A dimmer system such as Bob's could be used as the
speed control. A knob could be mounted in a convenient location to
adjust trim speed. A two-speed system could have a toggle switch to
bypass a MAC speed control to give full trim speed when desired.
MAC advertises a reduction in trim motor torque when their speed control
is used. I am unsure if this an issue. Maybe someone on the list has
experience in this area.
Matt has a relay\speed control system fully self contained. It may not
have a way to be bypassed for external two-speed trim control. Matt
advertises no reduction in trim motor torque at lower speeds. I am
unsure if his system pulses the trim motor or lowers the voltage to the
motor. Maybe Matt could give some advice and insite.
I am going to install a micro switch controlled by the flap actuator to
shut off the flap motor in the up position ( ON up\ momentary down flap
switch on stick grip) and bypass a MAC speed control when the flaps are
not in the fully up position. All I will have to do is tap the flaps
down to get full trim speed in the pattern.
There are relay, switch, speed control combinations that can fit any
builders need. There are many correct ways to get the same results.
If this seems to be too much, manual trim and large toggle switches may
be for you.
McDaniels wrote:
>
>
> From: "Ralph E. Capen"
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator Electric Trim Authority
>
>
> I've been looking at this one for a while also - my problem has been
> getting
> the right horn set. Seems that there are a number (at least four that I
> can
> determine) different designs that have been produced by Van's. I have
> three
> sets of horn parts - two manual and one electric . Only one set fits the
> trim tab skin that came with my empennage kit - it's a manual with a -1
> suffix for the part number.
>
> Although the Gretz kit says to use the manual trim horns, I'm planning on
> building a set that is more like the Electric elevator kind fitting my
> trim
> tab. It will have the fore/aft dimensions of the manual design produced
> by
> Van's in order to fit the manual type cable supplied with the Gretz kit
> that
> I have. I'm also looking at the clevis/hinge distance of the electric
> horn
> design for more throw. Since we're hearing complaints of inadequate
> throw
> even from those with the stock electric trim setup, I think that an even
> shorter clevis/hinge distance is necessary. I am building a CS/O360 6A -
> which seems to be the greatest offender in this fray.
>
> The question that I have is for those that have already modified their
> horns
> for more throw by decreasing the distance between the hinge and the
> clevis.
> What distance did you end up with and how successful were the results??
>
> I have heard of one builder that placed the throw horn inside the area
> between the spars (it's also out of the airstream this way). I'll be
> looking at the archives for that one - anyone have any hints on where
> it's
> located?
>
> Ralph Capen
> RV6AQB N822AR reserved...too many things to do so this can wait a while
>
> I am not meaning to say that changing from the "as designed" trim tab
> control horn shouldn't be done... just consider carefully before you make
> a change.
> Be aware that shortening the control horn will raise the required torque
> output of the trim motor/servo. I do not know how close the current
> design is to being at the motors limit.
> There may be a large margin, or maybe not (maybe someone on the list
> would be capable of doing a rough calculation).
> The other issue is one of sensitivity. Unless you use a speed control it
> is already difficult to make very precise adjustments at cruise speeds.
> Shortening the arm would just make it worse.
>
> A different angle to the discussion that I would like to ask Matt if he
> is monitoring this thread...
>
> The new RV-9A prototype has electric trim which is connected through one
> of the Matronics speed controls. With the way I have it currently
> adjusted it is great for tweaking the pitch trim at max. cruise speed but
> it is a bit slower than I would like while flying in the pattern.
> Particularly in a situation such as a go-around with the trim set for a
> power off glide with full flaps.
>
> Matt, I was wondering if you have/would consider building a control line
> into your circuit that would enable/disable the speed controlling
> function of the switch. This could then be connected to either a panel
> mounted selector switch, a sensing switch on the flaps, or both. A
> ground activation would be simpler from an installation standpoint but +V
> activation would be ok also.
>
> Would it be easy to design into the circuit?
>
> Is this something those of you on the list (potential customers) would
> pay for.
>
> I know this can be done outside of the speed control but many builders
> have a hard enough time with all of the wiring stuff as it is. This
> would make a nice enhancement to an already good product and make it easy
> for most everyone to benefit from the improvement of a variable trim
> sensitivity/reaction speed.
>
> Scott McDaniels
> North Plains, OR
> These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
> reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | How Much SCFM....? |
Hello Listers:
Firstable I want to thank to my new friends in Texas: George Meketa and
Charles Brame. I met this two persons last november 8. George help me
recieving my tools, show me his RV-8A project and Charles show me his RV-6A
QB project too.
They both were very kind with me answering every question I made about
building my RV-6A. Thanks a lot..!!
And de second thing is: Can any one help me telling me how much SCFM need
this tools?:
Rivet Gun
Air Drill
Air Grinder
Paint Gun
By the way, thank you very much to all that guys who conform this great
list, with out your comments, advices and tips I just could not start my
project..THANKS!
Daniel Estrada
RV6A Empenaje (start building now!)
Mexico D.F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Electric Trim Authority |
-----Original Message-----
From: meketa(at)matronics.com
Date: Sunday, November 12, 2000 10:38 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator Electric Trim Authority
>
>Hello Yall
>
>A variable speed trim system would be easy to install or add to many
>existing systems. A dimmer system such as Bob's could be used as the
>speed control. A knob could be mounted in a convenient location to
>adjust trim speed. A two-speed system could have a toggle switch to
>bypass a MAC speed control to give full trim speed when desired.
>
>MAC advertises a reduction in trim motor torque when their speed control
>is used. I am unsure if this an issue. Maybe someone on the list has
>experience in this area.
>
>Matt has a relay\speed control system fully self contained. It may not
>have a way to be bypassed for external two-speed trim control. Matt
>advertises no reduction in trim motor torque at lower speeds. I am
>unsure if his system pulses the trim motor or lowers the voltage to the
>motor. Maybe Matt could give some advice and insite.
>
I have a suggestion on an adaptive-speed controller based on "smart
scrolling" as used in avionics' database selection: When you first hold down
a key (or rotate a knob) the letters/words scroll by slowly -- if you
persist, they speed up markedly as the firmware senses you want to advance
more rapidly.
The controller would thus have slow speed operation in cruise -- you just
tap the trim button/switch to give the servo little tiny jabs needed to
achieve straight and level flight. During approach-to-landing or
go-arounds, after you command trim for more than 1.5 seconds, the controller
reverts to fast mode for more aggressive trim response. The Mac servo is
actually too slow in go-around mode at its fastest response of 19 seconds
for full displacement, but I'd still use a "smart controller" so I could
have better cruise trim control.
I'll bet Matt could whip one up for us in no time!
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O36A1A/Hartzell 11 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Electric Trim Authority |
> >
> >Did you use a govenor with your electric trim? I going to have to change
> to
> >the MAC 4a servo w/travel reducer in order to get my trim to work.
Because
> >of the short hinge to horn distance on my "hidden" setup (.5") I'm going
> to
> >need to slow the servo down as much as possible. I'm concerned that I'll
> >have to slow it to much and it will not have enough voltage to apply the
> >force necessary to activate the servo in flight.
> >
> >Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
> >Plainfield, IL
>
>
> Mike: I suggest you make contact with Matt Dralle before changing servos.
> It may be that the shorter travel unit is just as fast as the longer one
(or
> faster). Longer ago than I like to think, Matt advised me that his speed
> reducer provided for full output torque to the Mac servo from about 90%
> speed ( the max available with his setup) down to about 35% speed. Below
> that speed available torque diminished, as I recall, more or less
linearly.
> The Mac speed control provides decreasing torque all the way. At least it
> did at that time.
>
> I support Scott McDaniels request for the ability to change servo speed as
> airspeed varies. I am setting up electric trim for my -8 and it may well
> benefit from that capability. I don't know about the aileron trim.
> Probably not necessary. Electric Bob has spoken about 2 speed servos for
> certain production aircraft so you might also talk to him. I definitely
> plan to use Matronics speed controllers.
>
> Gordon Comfort
> N363GC
>
Gordon, my reasons for going with the 4a Servo are not due to speed but due
to full travel movement. Due to the modifications I made to the trim horn a
4a with travel reduction is needed in the event of a runaway trim. The
stock 8a would give me over 100 deg full trim movement which is far to much.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | meketa(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Electric Trim Authority |
Hello Yall
The "smart controller" sure sounds like a great idea. I am good at
electrical, but not electronics. I would think it would be a fairly
simple upgrade to Matt's trim control.
Until then I will stick with my design. With the flap limit switch in
place in my flap wiring design, all items will already be in place to
add the speed control bypass anyway.
I would still like to hear from others on lower trim motor torque with
a speed control and what Matt thinks about these new additions to his
controller.
George Meketa
RV8 QB finishing
> I have a suggestion on an adaptive-speed controller based on "smart
> scrolling" as used in avionics' database selection: When you first hold down
> a key (or rotate a knob) the letters/words scroll by slowly -- if you
> persist, they speed up markedly as the firmware senses you want to advance
> more rapidly.
>
> The controller would thus have slow speed operation in cruise -- you just
> tap the trim button/switch to give the servo little tiny jabs needed to
> achieve straight and level flight. During approach-to-landing or
> go-arounds, after you command trim for more than 1.5 seconds, the controller
> reverts to fast mode for more aggressive trim response. The Mac servo is
> actually too slow in go-around mode at its fastest response of 19 seconds
> for full displacement, but I'd still use a "smart controller" so I could
> have better cruise trim control.
>
> I'll bet Matt could whip one up for us in no time!
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O36A1A/Hartzell 11 hours
> Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam.Buchanan(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Electric Trim Authority |
With the manual elevator trim:
1) You have infinite speed control
2) Very low risk of runaway trim
3) Very precise adjustments are easy to make
4) Full trim control authority
5) No additional cost
6) Will continue to work even with total electrical system failure
7) No need to rebalance elevator
I haven't seen an electrical trim system yet that has more positive
attributes than the manual system.....
By the way, I have flown with both systems................and I MUCH
prefer the manual system.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 manually trimmed)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2000 12:32 PM
Subject:
________________________________________________________________________________
What's the general consensus on the "430". Does this have to be
installed by a factory representative? Thanks in advance.
Rick Jory RV8A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fw: How Much SCFM....? |
Hello Listers:
Firstable I want to thank to my new friends in Texas: George Meketa and
Charles Brame. I met this two persons last november 8. George help me
recieving my tools, show me his RV-8A project and Charles show me his RV-6A
QB project too.
They both were very kind with me answering every question I made about
building my RV-6A. Thanks a lot..!!
And de second thing is: Can any one help me telling me how much SCFM need
this tools?:
Rivet Gun
Air Drill
Air Grinder
Paint Gun
By the way, thank you very much to all that guys who conform this great
list, with out your comments, advices and tips I just could not start my
project..THANKS!
Daniel Estrada
RV6A Empenaje (start building now!)
Mexico D.F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fairing the Tail Tie-Down Ring on RV's |
I came up with what I think is a good way to fair the tie-down ring, yet
have it there should you want to actually use it. Also this idea lets you
'crunch' the tail without damaging the aircraft metal...you just 'sacrifice'
the easy to replace fairing....I can't post a photo due to list
restrictions, but if you desire to see a photo send me an e-mail and I will
send it to you off-net.
The whole thing takes about 2 hours to make and install and is slicker than
anything I have seen at OSH or on the rv-net
Incidentally, the pressure recovery wheel fairings, along with TEAM ROCKET
leg and intersection fairings, and the new fairings on the rudder 'horns'
and the tie-down ring thingy got me at least 8MPH....wow!!
John RV6A Flying Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fairing the Tail Tie-Down Ring on RV's |
John,
Good timing. I was getting ready to figure this out for my RV-8A.
Please send the photo.
Carl Froehlich
Vienna, VA
----- Original Message -----
From:
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2000 6:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fairing the Tail Tie-Down Ring on RV's
>
> I came up with what I think is a good way to fair the tie-down ring, yet
> have it there should you want to actually use it. Also this idea lets
you
> 'crunch' the tail without damaging the aircraft metal...you just
'sacrifice'
> the easy to replace fairing....I can't post a photo due to list
> restrictions, but if you desire to see a photo send me an e-mail and I
will
> send it to you off-net.
>
> The whole thing takes about 2 hours to make and install and is slicker
than
> anything I have seen at OSH or on the rv-net
>
> Incidentally, the pressure recovery wheel fairings, along with TEAM ROCKET
> leg and intersection fairings, and the new fairings on the rudder 'horns'
> and the tie-down ring thingy got me at least 8MPH....wow!!
>
> John RV6A Flying Salida, CO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin.Keller(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fairing the Tail Tie-Down Ring on RV's |
I'd be interested ... thanks.
- robin keller
John(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> I came up with what I think is a good way to fair the tie-down ring, yet
> have it there should you want to actually use it. Also this idea lets you
> 'crunch' the tail without damaging the aircraft metal...you just 'sacrifice'
> the easy to replace fairing....I can't post a photo due to list
> restrictions, but if you desire to see a photo send me an e-mail and I will
> send it to you off-net.
>
> The whole thing takes about 2 hours to make and install and is slicker than
> anything I have seen at OSH or on the rv-net
>
> Incidentally, the pressure recovery wheel fairings, along with TEAM ROCKET
> leg and intersection fairings, and the new fairings on the rudder 'horns'
> and the tie-down ring thingy got me at least 8MPH....wow!!
>
> John RV6A Flying Salida, CO
>
________________________________________________________________________________
thats all i could find on 2 people no fatalities this year in a rv6a, hope
you find the one you were thinking about, i do know of 1 accident in
california, were someone posted to the list of a husband and wife made an
emergency landing and lost half the wing, but couldn't find it in the
accident reports,
hope this helps
scott
tampa
rv6a panel wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin.Horton(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: How Much SCFM....? |
>
>Hello Listers:
>
>Firstable I want to thank to my new friends in Texas: George Meketa and
>Charles Brame. I met this two persons last november 8. George help me
>recieving my tools, show me his RV-8A project and Charles show me his RV-6A
>QB project too.
>
>They both were very kind with me answering every question I made about
>building my RV-6A. Thanks a lot..!!
>
>And de second thing is: Can any one help me telling me how much SCFM need
>this tools?:
>
>Rivet Gun
>Air Drill
>Air Grinder
>Paint Gun
>
>By the way, thank you very much to all that guys who conform this great
>list, with out your comments, advices and tips I just could not start my
>project..THANKS!
>
>
>Daniel Estrada
>RV6A Empenaje (start building now!)
>Mexico D.F.
>
Daniel,
I'm afraid I can't give you exact info, but I have some general
comments that might be useful.
The size of the tank is probably more important than the capacity of
the compressor. This is because you rarely use a tool continuously.
A bigger tank will allow you to use the tool for a longer time before
the pressure gets too low. I've got a 5 hp compressor with a 20
gallon tank. It is rated at 7.0 SFCM at 40 psi, and 5.8 SFCM at 90
psi. I am very happy with it, but I will not do my own painting.
Rivet gun - this uses very little air, so don't worry about it.
Air drill - uses more air than rivet gun, but you will usually drill
a few holes, stop to put in clecos, drill a few more holes, etc.
This gives the compressor time to catch up.
Air grinder (die grinder?) - a die grinder uses a lot of air, but I
find that I don't use one often enough to justify buying a larger
compressor. I simply pause for a minute when the pressure starts to
get low, and the compressor catches up.
Paint gun - for priming, you can pause to let the compressor catch
up. For finish painting, I'm not an expert, but I believe you need a
big enough compressor to allow you to work almost non-stop. If you
plan on doing your own finish painting, this is probably the tool
that will govern what size compressor to buy. Different type guns
use different amounts of air, so you need to talk to someone who
sells paint guns I think.
Good luck,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Test Flights |
Bill,
The 1.5 quarts less reading would be that amount needed to initially work
its way through the system to include the oil cooler, prop, and remote oil
filter. Plus add a bit more when I cleaned the oil filter.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809Rs
>From: SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Test Flights
>Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 19:41:29 EST
>
>
> > The other surprise is that she isn't burning any oil.
>
>Mike, how do you figure that?! Sounds to me like you are down 1.5 qts in
>just 3 hrs of flying. If any of that lost oil got on your antenna farm, I
>believe I know what's amiss with your transponder ;-)
>
> >I put in 8 qts before the first run. After the first run she showed 7
>qts.
> >Last night I cleaned the oil filter (she has a remote ADC oil filter
>using a
> >wafer screen) and she now reads 6.5 qts.
>
>
>Bill Boyd
>RV-6A O-320/FP Sensenich
>Hop-Along Airfield - 12VA
>Clifton Forge, VA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew.Gelber(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Alternative to tie-down rings |
As an alternative to the wing tie-down rings, a possibility is a piece of
rock climbing hardware called "Removable bolts". I'm nowhere near flying so
I haven't tried them in this application but I'm sure they'd work great.
They would slide in and out of the holes for the tie-down ring; you could
pull them out before flying and put them back in when you tie down. I
haven't used these but have used similar climbing devices made to go in
cracks and they work great- they go in and out with no effort (unless you
fall on one).
A caveat- they'd probably work better (easier to remove) in a non-threaded
hole.
The web site is
http://www.climbtech.com
If anyone tries them out I'd be interested to hear what you think.
Matthew
-8A wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2000 3:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fairing the Tail Tie-Down Ring on RV's
I came up with what I think is a good way to fair the tie-down ring, yet
have it there should you want to actually use it. Also this idea lets you
'crunch' the tail without damaging the aircraft metal...you just 'sacrifice'
the easy to replace fairing....I can't post a photo due to list
restrictions, but if you desire to see a photo send me an e-mail and I will
send it to you off-net.
The whole thing takes about 2 hours to make and install and is slicker than
anything I have seen at OSH or on the rv-net
Incidentally, the pressure recovery wheel fairings, along with TEAM ROCKET
leg and intersection fairings, and the new fairings on the rudder 'horns'
and the tie-down ring thingy got me at least 8MPH....wow!!
John RV6A Flying Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old.ogre(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fairing the Tail Tie-Down Ring on RV's |
please, please, please send me a photo of thoes changes....thank you so
much....jolly in aurora, or.
"John"@matronics.com wrote:
>
> I came up with what I think is a good way to fair the tie-down ring, yet
> have it there should you want to actually use it. Also this idea lets you
> 'crunch' the tail without damaging the aircraft metal...you just 'sacrifice'
> the easy to replace fairing....I can't post a photo due to list
> restrictions, but if you desire to see a photo send me an e-mail and I will
> send it to you off-net.
>
> The whole thing takes about 2 hours to make and install and is slicker than
> anything I have seen at OSH or on the rv-net
>
> Incidentally, the pressure recovery wheel fairings, along with TEAM ROCKET
> leg and intersection fairings, and the new fairings on the rudder 'horns'
> and the tie-down ring thingy got me at least 8MPH....wow!!
>
> John RV6A Flying Salida, CO
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | meketa(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Electric Trim Authority |
Hello Yall
I initially planned on manual elevator and aileron trim. I also still
wish the RV8 had a good manual flap system. I now have electric elevator
trim and converted my already built manual aileron trim to electric. I
found no way to make an attractive manual aileron trim control handle
with my install. The issue is not manual verses electric, but how to
make electric fit our needs. Many back the way they did something
without looking at the possibility of there being other ways of making
things work with the same end result.
Sam.Buchanan(at)matronics.com wrote:
With the manual elevator trim:
>
> 1) You have infinite speed control
Is infinite speed control needed. Is everyone with electric trim having
unmanagable problems. Maybe I should start building a system like Lyle
and add another month to my project. A vernier cable and knob are out of
the question with my install.
> 2) Very low risk of runaway trim
-Is there any great risk of runaway trim on the electric setup? I have a
switch to block all Co-pilot stick functions except PTT, a switch
to cut off flaps and trim in case of a runaway, and a master switch for
the auto pilot. I feel the remote possibility of any runaways is easily
managable. How many builders have had runaway trim? We would all like to
hear about failures that have occured to other builders.
> 3) Very precise adjustments are easy to make
-Got us there, maybe, but we are working on it. Slowing down the trim
motor speed should keep it managable. How are other peoples electric
trim doing with a speed control installed? Is the cruise flight trim
still too sensitive when slowed down with a speed control?
> 4) Full trim control authority
-I am under the impression that we have the same trim travel that the
manual system has. Is there an authority difference?
> 5) No additional cost
-The electric system is pretty cost effective. If one is on a very tight
budget it would be a consideration, but many seem to be installing the
electric trim. The manual system weight is not free and I was not
looking forward to running the cable and trying to make it look good
with my cockpit layout.
> 6) Will continue to work even with total electrical system failure
First I have to be worried about runaway trim now I am concerned with
total electrical system failure. I feel the risks at best are minimal.
If I was paranoid of minute risks I would fly a nose geared plane and
not own and build taildraggers or better yet not fly at all. It is all
about risk management.
> 7) No need to rebalance elevator
Why would I have to rebalance the elevator if I balance it with the
complete system installed?
Installing manual or electric trim is up to the builder. Both systems
work well with pros and cons to each. As I stated earlier there are many
ways to do the same thing the right way. If you want to build it simple
build it with manual. Many people want to customize their install, have
installation considerations, are weight conscious, like gadgets, or just
want to keep their hands on the stick and throttle. Taking all things
into consideration my electric trim system should fits my needs.
George Meketa
RV8 QB with electric trim
> I haven't seen an electrical trim system yet that has more positive
> attributes than the manual system.....
>
> By the way, I have flown with both systems................and I MUCH
> prefer the manual system.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6 manually trimmed)
> "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie.Kuss(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fairing the Tail Tie-Down Ring on RV's |
John,
Please send me a copy of the photos. I would be happy to place them up on the
SE Florida RV builders web site for all to see.
Charlie Kuss
PS I only responded on list as your return email was listed as
"John"@matronics.com I suspect that is not correct.
"John"@matronics.com wrote:
>
> I came up with what I think is a good way to fair the tie-down ring, yet
> have it there should you want to actually use it. Also this idea lets you
> 'crunch' the tail without damaging the aircraft metal...you just 'sacrifice'
> the easy to replace fairing....I can't post a photo due to list
> restrictions, but if you desire to see a photo send me an e-mail and I will
> send it to you off-net.
>
> The whole thing takes about 2 hours to make and install and is slicker than
> anything I have seen at OSH or on the rv-net
>
> Incidentally, the pressure recovery wheel fairings, along with TEAM ROCKET
> leg and intersection fairings, and the new fairings on the rudder 'horns'
> and the tie-down ring thingy got me at least 8MPH....wow!!
>
> John RV6A Flying Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fairing the Tail Tie-Down Ring on RV's |
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From:
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2000 4:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fairing the Tail Tie-Down Ring on RV's
I came up with what I think is a good way to fair the tie-down ring, yet
have it there should you want to actually use it. Also this idea lets you
'crunch' the tail without damaging the aircraft metal...you just 'sacrifice'
the easy to replace fairing....I can't post a photo due to list
restrictions, but if you desire to see a photo send me an e-mail and I will
send it to you off-net.
The whole thing takes about 2 hours to make and install and is slicker than
anything I have seen at OSH or on the rv-net
Incidentally, the pressure recovery wheel fairings, along with TEAM ROCKET
leg and intersection fairings, and the new fairings on the rudder 'horns'
and the tie-down ring thingy got me at least 8MPH....wow!!
John RV6A Flying Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fairing the Tail Tie-Down Ring on RV's |
----- Original Message -----
From:
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2000 6:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fairing the Tail Tie-Down Ring on RV's
>
> I came up with what I think is a good way to fair the tie-down ring, yet
> have it there should you want to actually use it. Also this idea lets
you
> 'crunch' the tail without damaging the aircraft metal...you just
'sacrifice'
> the easy to replace fairing....I can't post a photo due to list
> restrictions, but if you desire to see a photo send me an e-mail and I
will
> send it to you off-net.
>
> The whole thing takes about 2 hours to make and install and is slicker
than
> anything I have seen at OSH or on the rv-net
>
> Incidentally, the pressure recovery wheel fairings, along with TEAM ROCKET
> leg and intersection fairings, and the new fairings on the rudder 'horns'
> and the tie-down ring thingy got me at least 8MPH....wow!!
>
> John RV6A Flying Salida, CO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan.&.Patty.Krueger(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Re: Bandsaw Recommendation |
KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm looking for a good bandsaw for wood and metal work.
A couple of us here in the Pensacola area have 16 inch Delta two speed band saws.
Got mine at Home Depot seven years ago for about $350. It is an excellent tool
that wiil last a life time.
Dan Krueger
6A - Electrical and engine hook-up
________________________________________________________________________________
Rick,
It really depends on your relationship with your avionics shop. Garmin says
that the warranty isn't good unless a shop installs it. If your shop says
they will support it if you install it then .......
Mike Robertson
RV-8A 3.1 hrs
>From: "Rick Jory"@matronics.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV-list"@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Garmin 430
>Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2000 11:08:05 -0700
>
>
>What's the general consensus on the "430". Does this have to be
>installed by a factory representative? Thanks in advance.
>Rick Jory RV8A QB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Bandsaw Recommendation |
As far as metal cutting goes, a horizontal/vertical bandsaw works great!
Most of them have 3 speeds or more and you can get them from about $160 to
over 2 grand. The Central Machinery one is decent or the Jet brand is of
higher quality.
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Dan.&.Patty.Krueger(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2000 5:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Bandsaw Recommendation
KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm looking for a good bandsaw for wood and metal work.
A couple of us here in the Pensacola area have 16 inch Delta two speed band
saws.
Got mine at Home Depot seven years ago for about $350. It is an excellent
tool
that wiil last a life time.
Dan Krueger
6A - Electrical and engine hook-up
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | RV8A: F804 riveting bottom skins |
Hi folks
I have a question for those who have gone before me..
The 2 rows of rivets which rivet the f804 spar carry-through to the
multitude of bottom skins, how did you do these?
did you countersink the f804, dimple the f804 or leave the f804 alone
and countersink the skin directly below the f804 ?
The anodized alu. of the f804 seems a bit brittle and I don't quite
fancy dimpling these, then again, there is not much thickness there
either to countersink.
My solution would be to leave the f804 alone and countersink the next
layer of skin. all subsequent layers above it could be dimpled skin.
There are in some areas 4 layers, the f804, the front bottom skin, the
center bottom skin and the lower outside skin. All to be riveted on top
of each other to the f804.
Of course the -8A has the front row, outside 5 rivets, left and right,
flush on the inside, all others flush on the outside.
How are these done on the quick builds ??
Your input is much appriciated
Gert
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | King 135 GPS/COM 4-sale |
My Brother is selling his 135, it's new and still in the box w/ a used VHF
antenna. Will take 1000 or best offer. Remember this is a 135, not a 135A,
so no moving map.
Blue Skies,
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rvpilot" <rvpilot(at)coollink.net> |
Listers,
Have been following the trim sensitivity thread with interest. I solved this
problem on my RV-8 by using a low range differential press. switch (Herga)
tied into the pitot and static lines. It is adjusted to trip at 120 MPH.
Under 120, full voltage is fed to the servo. Over 120, voltage from the MAC
speed control is used. Since the Herga only has SPST contacts, it was
necessary to connect it to a 12V relay in order to get SPDT action.
Complicates things a bit but it's do-able and the Press. switch is cheap and
light. There seems to still be plenty of torque available using the MAC
speed reducer, remember,the trim tab doesn't need to deflect very much in
cruise. The electric aileron trim poses no such problems and full voltage is
just right under all conditions.
Bill N48WD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Electric Trim Authority |
Very well put Sam. I also have flown both trim systems and MUCH prefer
the manual system too.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A O360A1A Sensenich and manual trim
Sam.Buchanan(at)matronics.com wrote:
> By the way, I have flown with both systems................and I MUCH
> prefer the manual system.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
Rick;
I'm having a 430 installed at the present time in my 8. I'm dealing with
Pacific Coast Avionics at Aurora, OR (same airport as Van's). What they
allowed me to do is take the center panel, cut a hole in it for the 430, put
two circuit breakers someone on the panel (5a and 10a), and hand it over to
them. Never mind that it isn't the panel that I'm really going to use; they
don't want to know that. As far as they are concerned it meets Garmin's
requirements. They are building the harness so you have to tell them the
lengths of the wires going to other stuff.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 instrument panel layout
Seattle area
----- Original Message -----
From: <"Rick Jory"@matronics.com>
>
> What's the general consensus on the "430". Does this have to be
> installed by a factory representative? Thanks in advance.
> Rick Jory RV8A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
Rick;
I'm having a 430 (14v version) installed at the present time in my 8. I'm
dealing with
Pacific Coast Avionics at Aurora, OR (same airport as Van's). What they
allowed me to do is take the center panel, cut a hole in it for the 430, put
two circuit breakers someone on the panel (5a and 10a), and hand it over to
them. Never mind that it isn't the panel that I'm really going to use; they
don't want to know that. As far as they are concerned it meets Garmin's
requirements. They are building the harness so you have to tell them the
lengths of the wires going to other stuff.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 instrument panel layout
Seattle area
----- Original Message -----
From: <"Rick Jory"@matronics.com>
>
> What's the general consensus on the "430". Does this have to be
> installed by a factory representative? Thanks in advance.
> Rick Jory RV8A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | meketa <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator trim |
Bill and others,
What is the range of pitot pressure throught the speed range of an RV.
Also where is this type of adjustable switch purchased. I will likely
stay with the flap operated system, but the pitot controlled system
sounds like a good solution for many electric trim installers.
George Meketa
rvpilot wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> Have been following the trim sensitivity thread with interest. I solved this
> problem on my RV-8 by using a low range differential press. switch (Herga)
> tied into the pitot and static lines. It is adjusted to trip at 120 MPH.
> Under 120, full voltage is fed to the servo. Over 120, voltage from the MAC
> speed control is used. Since the Herga only has SPST contacts, it was
> necessary to connect it to a 12V relay in order to get SPDT action.
> Complicates things a bit but it's do-able and the Press. switch is cheap and
> light. There seems to still be plenty of torque available using the MAC
> speed reducer, remember,the trim tab doesn't need to deflect very much in
> cruise. The electric aileron trim poses no such problems and full voltage is
> just right under all conditions.
>
> Bill N48WD
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stan and Pat Roberts <pastaroberts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stereo decks |
Hey listers here's a new one to consider. It's called
a Nomad Jukebox by Creative (877)-653-6227
www.nomadworld.com. It's an mp3 player that will hold
100hrs of music and doesn't skip for about $500.
Prices will probably shrink as more competition enters
this relatively new arena. This unit looks like your
usual portable CD player only slightly bigger. It will
also copy your existing CD's into its 6GB hard drive.
I saw it in this Sunday's (11-12-00) paper computer
section. Good luck SR
--- CW9371(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> In a message dated 11/7/2000 3:01:07 PM Central
> Standard Time,
> bcbraem(at)home.com writes:
>
> << Chris--
>
> Do you have model#. I called the local audio shop
> and they didn't have
> a clue about the Aiwa (sp?).
>
> Thanks
> Boyd >>
>
> its in the crutchfield catalog
>
>
>
> support the
> Lists
> moment to
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Yahoo! Calendar - Get organized for the holidays!
http://calendar.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Bandsaw Recommendation |
I would purchase another Sears, only try to get one without the variable
speed function.
I have a 12" or 13" model purchased in 1989 the is still operating as good as
he day I bought it.
John Danielson
Finishing kit, Engine installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Fairing for tie-down ring on tricycle RV-s |
I can't send photos of the tie down fairing to anyone UNLESS you include you
e-mail address in your request...the incoming requests always put you on
MATRONICS.COM and I can't send anything there that has an attachment, like
the photo.
One responder is going to post the picture on his web site...I don't have a
site...he should be announcing where to find it very soon.
Thanks for the interest...
fasching(at)amigo.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Fairing for tie-down ring on tricycle RV-s |
Every post through Matronics shows the senders email address--even
yours--fasching(at)amigo.net
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2000 7:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fairing for tie-down ring on tricycle RV-s
I can't send photos of the tie down fairing to anyone UNLESS you include you
e-mail address in your request...the incoming requests always put you on
MATRONICS.COM and I can't send anything there that has an attachment, like
the photo.
One responder is going to post the picture on his web site...I don't have a
site...he should be announcing where to find it very soon.
Thanks for the interest...
fasching(at)amigo.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Fairing for tie-down ring on tricycle RV-s |
Let me amend that---almost every post.
Some appear to be "anonymous"
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2000 7:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fairing for tie-down ring on tricycle RV-s
I can't send photos of the tie down fairing to anyone UNLESS you include you
e-mail address in your request...the incoming requests always put you on
MATRONICS.COM and I can't send anything there that has an attachment, like
the photo.
One responder is going to post the picture on his web site...I don't have a
site...he should be announcing where to find it very soon.
Thanks for the interest...
fasching(at)amigo.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Election help is in this E-mail. |
Okay I've been quiet for a while now. I'm afraid that this tied
Presidential vote has locked up some of you RV-List members and your
wallets. I realize that you don't know which way you want to go with all
your investment money. I mean should you buy green stocks if Gore wins or
should you buy oil stocks if Bush wins. What's a Lister to do? Decisions,
Decisions, Decisions.
Well let me give you another choice............The RV-List Fundraiser. Just
click on:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or send a check to:
Matt Dralle
c/o Matronics
P.O. Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
There's no confusion here! No difficult ballots to punch. No recounting at
all. In fact let me remind you that Matt will be posting the names of all
the people who donated to Fundraiser2000 and during the past year. (Since
the last posting of donors in 12/99)
I know my name will be on that list.............will yours' ? AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fairing the Tail Tie-Down Ring on RV's |
John:
Could you e-mail me the photo of your tiedown fairing. Thanks a bunch.
Dave Aronson
RV4
John(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> I came up with what I think is a good way to fair the tie-down ring, yet
> have it there should you want to actually use it. Also this idea lets you
> 'crunch' the tail without damaging the aircraft metal...you just 'sacrifice'
> the easy to replace fairing....I can't post a photo due to list
> restrictions, but if you desire to see a photo send me an e-mail and I will
> send it to you off-net.
>
> The whole thing takes about 2 hours to make and install and is slicker than
> anything I have seen at OSH or on the rv-net
>
> Incidentally, the pressure recovery wheel fairings, along with TEAM ROCKET
> leg and intersection fairings, and the new fairings on the rudder 'horns'
> and the tie-down ring thingy got me at least 8MPH....wow!!
>
> John RV6A Flying Salida, CO
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator trim |
Well, airspeed indicators measure the difference between the pitot
and static pressures, so we would be using a differential pressure
switch, as Bill did. I've got a spreadsheet on my web site that will
calculate the differential pressure vs airspeed. See:
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks/asi.zip
In summary:
60 mph = 0.064 psi
80 mph = 0.11 psi
100 mph = 0.18 psi
120 mph = 0.26 psi
210 mph = 0.80 psi
230 mph = 0.96 psi
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
>Bill and others,
>
>What is the range of pitot pressure throught the speed range of an RV.
>
>Also where is this type of adjustable switch purchased. I will likely
>stay with the flap operated system, but the pitot controlled system
>sounds like a good solution for many electric trim installers.
>
>George Meketa
>
>
>rvpilot wrote:
>>
>>
>> Listers,
>>
>> Have been following the trim sensitivity thread with interest. I solved this
>> problem on my RV-8 by using a low range differential press. switch (Herga)
>> tied into the pitot and static lines. It is adjusted to trip at 120 MPH.
>> Under 120, full voltage is fed to the servo. Over 120, voltage from the MAC
>> speed control is used. Since the Herga only has SPST contacts, it was
>> necessary to connect it to a 12V relay in order to get SPDT action.
>> Complicates things a bit but it's do-able and the Press. switch is cheap and
>> light. There seems to still be plenty of torque available using the MAC
>> speed reducer, remember,the trim tab doesn't need to deflect very much in
>> cruise. The electric aileron trim poses no such problems and full voltage is
>> just right under all conditions.
>>
> > Bill N48WD
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: gyro connectors |
listers
i found the connector number which is ( MS3116E8-4S ) thats the type of
connector i need 2 of them, please advise.
thanks
scott
tampa
panel wiring rv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fairing the Tail Tie-Down Ring on RV's |
John,
Please send me the pics...
recapen(at)earthlink.net
would rather respond offline - but your e-mail address was converted to
matronics...
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Begnaud" <shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fairing the Tail Tie-Down Ring on RV's |
John,
I would appreciate seeing the photo!
Thanks,
Cliff
>
> I came up with what I think is a good way to fair the tie-down ring, yet
> have it there should you want to actually use it. Also this idea lets
you
> 'crunch' the tail without damaging the aircraft metal...you just
'sacrifice'
> the easy to replace fairing....I can't post a photo due to list
> restrictions, but if you desire to see a photo send me an e-mail and I
will
> send it to you off-net.
>
> The whole thing takes about 2 hours to make and install and is slicker
than
> anything I have seen at OSH or on the rv-net
>
> Incidentally, the pressure recovery wheel fairings, along with TEAM ROCKET
> leg and intersection fairings, and the new fairings on the rudder 'horns'
> and the tie-down ring thingy got me at least 8MPH....wow!!
>
> John RV6A Flying Salida, CO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jah" <jah(at)abraxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Dollies |
I wish I needed a wing cradle!!
-Jeff
RV-8 Finish kit
Atlanta, Georgia
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 20:05:54 GMT
>
>
>>From: George True <true(at)uswest.net>
>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RV-List: Wing Dollies
>>Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 09:01:21 -0700
>>
>>
>>In the past, I have seen photos of dollies or cradles, usually on
>>wheels, that people have made for storing a completed set of wings. But
>>now I don't remember where I saw them. Does anybody have pictures,
>>dimensions, etc that they could share or point me to?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>George True
>>
>
>George,
>
>Here's a deal for ya. Drive out here (in a pickup truck) and pick up my
>wheeled wing carriage and take it home for free! Pics are on my webpage.
>It's VERY stout and served me well. Could also take you for a ride in my -8
>if that's not asking too much. hehe.
>
>Best of luck,
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>Albuquerque, NM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Topic: RV-List: elevator trim
Thread-Index: AcBNamxLVHysFYf9Ti2Bp0ZqCJEb1gAEk06w
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
With all this talk of electric trim, I decided to make some changes
Saturday and see if they will help. I re-rigged the elevator trim so
that I get slightly more nose-up than nose-down trim, and re-centered
the needle on the indicator. I'll let you guys know how it works out
later on in the week, when I get a chance to fly.
I have a G7 stick, and have ordered a SPDT switch for it to bypass the
speed controller, which I shoved down into the stick. So, in cruise, I
can flip the switch to power the servo through the speed controller, and
when I want quicker response, I can flip the switch to bypass the speed
controller.
Thanks!
Bob Japundza
RealMed Corporation
www.realmed.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Horton [mailto:khorton(at)cyberus.ca]
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2000 6:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: elevator trim
Well, airspeed indicators measure the difference between the pitot
and static pressures, so we would be using a differential pressure
switch, as Bill did. I've got a spreadsheet on my web site that will
calculate the differential pressure vs airspeed. See:
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks/asi.zip
In summary:
60 mph = 0.064 psi
80 mph = 0.11 psi
100 mph = 0.18 psi
120 mph = 0.26 psi
210 mph = 0.80 psi
230 mph = 0.96 psi
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
>Bill and others,
>
>What is the range of pitot pressure throught the speed range of an RV.
>
>Also where is this type of adjustable switch purchased. I will likely
>stay with the flap operated system, but the pitot controlled system
>sounds like a good solution for many electric trim installers.
>
>George Meketa
>
>
>rvpilot wrote:
>>
>>
>> Listers,
>>
>> Have been following the trim sensitivity thread with interest. I
solved this
>> problem on my RV-8 by using a low range differential press. switch
(Herga)
>> tied into the pitot and static lines. It is adjusted to trip at 120
MPH.
>> Under 120, full voltage is fed to the servo. Over 120, voltage from
the MAC
>> speed control is used. Since the Herga only has SPST contacts, it
was
>> necessary to connect it to a 12V relay in order to get SPDT action.
>> Complicates things a bit but it's do-able and the Press. switch is
cheap and
>> light. There seems to still be plenty of torque available using the
MAC
>> speed reducer, remember,the trim tab doesn't need to deflect very
much in
>> cruise. The electric aileron trim poses no such problems and full
voltage is
>> just right under all conditions.
>>
> > Bill N48WD
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)AOL.COM |
A friend asked us to let everyone know that he is selling his RV4. It
was completed in 1998, has an O-320 20 hours SMOH, Aymar-Demuth prop,
electronic ignition, Terra comm, Terra VOR with glideslope, Terra
transponder, electric flaps, nice interior, unpainted. He is asking $45,000
OBO. Please contact me at 940-648-0841 or by email.
George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fairing the Tail Tie-Down Ring on RV's |
What tail tie down ring. Just wrap the rope around the TAILWHEEL.
Don Mei
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stereo decks SONY Memory Stick |
> Hi Greg...
>
> I have been thinking about getting an iPAQ and the Anywhere Map software
to
> use in in my RV8A... Can you give me some encouragement?
> How does it work?
I really,really like it. I think it works great. And so much easier to
justify the money when I use it 7 days aweek instead of just when I fly.
> How does it compare to the Garmin 295?
First of all you can see it when the sun is coming into the cockpit over
your shoulder. The second is it has several features that the 295 doesn't
have.(see link) http://www.anywheremap.com/GPS295_Compare.PDF
> How do you have it mounted?
On a knee board when flying my VP-1 and on a side mount when in RV. (See
picture on their web page of yoke mount. Just screw base to side flange.)
> Do you have any pictures?
I don't have any in electronic format right now. Check out their web site.
> Do you use the iPAQ for work too?
Use it every single day. I don't leave home without it.(Use it alot there
too)
> Does it play MP3's right out of the box, or do you need something extra?
I was playing MP3's 10 minutes after I opened the box. Control Vision will
have it playing full audio response by December. They showed a demo of the
audio prompts at AOPA expo.
>
> Sorry about all the questions... And, Thanks in advance!
>
No problem...
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Bell" <dbell(at)manisteenational.com> |
To all Listers,
Thanks for the responses to the stereo deck questions
Very helpful
Doug Bell
8qb
266WB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Headset wiring - how? |
I need to wire headset jacks and I don't know how! I can solder but what to
what?
My Lightspeeds have 3 contacts on each plug. What is the function of each?
hal
nordo till y'all help me!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Disconnect Servo Controller, Was: Elevator Electric Trim Authority |
--- Scott R McDaniels wrote:
> Matt, I was wondering if you have/would consider building a control
> line
> into your circuit that would enable/disable the speed controlling
> function of the switch. This could then be connected to either a
> panel
> mounted selector switch, a sensing switch on the flaps, or both. A
> ground activation would be simpler from an installation standpoint
> but +V
> activation would be ok also.
Scott, I plan to disengage my servo motor controller with a flap
switch - with flaps up, the controller is in the circuit and trim
control speeds are slower. When the flaps go down I'll switch out
(relay) the controller and I'll have faster, uncontrolled trim control
speeds.
A panel mounted switch could do the same thing, but just another item
on the pre-landing check list.
I don't know how/why you would use a "ground activation switch" unless
you just wanted the faster trim speeds to re-set trim in between touch
and gos... which would be as good a reason as any!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Painting and Polishing and Finishing |
11/13/2000 11:20:54 AM
Renamed & Reposted for future e-searching of the archives
"Wilson, James Mike" (at)matronics.com on
11/10/2000 09:48:56 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
@matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RE: RV-List: Buffing questions
Randy,
I'm using concept and have been successful sanding and buffing as soon as
24
hours, I think it is better to wait at least 48 hours but seem to remember
a
PPG article saying within one week. I've had best success with 1500
(straight long strokes) followed by 2000 (circular hand palm) sanding. Cut
and buff should be done with a rotary buffing tool. The DA does not give
the
right action (at least not for me). When I get back next week, you can come
see my fuse. It doesn't look to bad.
Later, Mike RV4 ever project
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy Lervold [mailto:randy@rv-8.com]
Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2000 6:41 PM
Subject: RV-List: Buffing questions
Gang,
Well, I made it all the way to my wing tips before getting a run. I don't
feel too bad because this was caused by the vent in the lid of my paint gun
getting clogged. Gradually the paint flow was getting choked off so I was
having to go slower and slower. Then it cleared of course and dumped a
bunch
of paint just as I was doing the middle of the top section. Seconds later
it
of course formed into a run... what a helpless feeling!
Anyway, per Sam Buchanan's advice I will be sanding and buffing (plus my
flaps have a bit too much orange peel for my taste although the ailerons
look pretty good). This leads me to my quesitons...
-How long should you wait before sanding/buffing?
(Concept seems to take at least two weeks to fully harden)
-Is a DA sander preferrable to a rotary one?
-Are sponge pads better than wool ones?
-What compound are folks having success with?
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, learning lots about painting!
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How Much SCFM....? |
11/13/2000 11:24:45 AM
Look in the archives.......its all there.
"Daniel Estrada F."(at)matronics.com@matronics.com on 11/12/2000 11:36:51 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
To:
cc:
Subject: RV-List: How Much SCFM....?
Hello Listers:
Firstable I want to thank to my new friends in Texas: George Meketa and
Charles Brame. I met this two persons last november 8. George help me
recieving my tools, show me his RV-8A project and Charles show me his RV-6A
QB project too.
They both were very kind with me answering every question I made about
building my RV-6A. Thanks a lot..!!
And de second thing is: Can any one help me telling me how much SCFM need
this tools?:
Rivet Gun
Air Drill
Air Grinder
Paint Gun
By the way, thank you very much to all that guys who conform this great
list, with out your comments, advices and tips I just could not start my
project..THANKS!
Daniel Estrada
RV6A Empenaje (start building now!)
Mexico D.F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
| Subject: | Headset wiring - how? |
Hal,The Light Speeds are Stereo Headsets, so be sure to buy stereo jacks.
3 pins are left, right, and common. You can use them as monaural. Do you
have
a stereo intercom?
Ed Cole
Maxim Integrated Products
Bldg. 120 Ext. 6605
> -----Original Message-----
> From: kempthornes [SMTP:kempthornes(at)home.com]
> Sent: Monday, November 13, 2000 8:04 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Headset wiring - how?
>
>
> I need to wire headset jacks and I don't know how! I can solder but what
> to
> what?
>
> My Lightspeeds have 3 contacts on each plug. What is the function of
> each?
>
> hal
> nordo till y'all help me!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Headset wiring - how? |
Check the archives, boob (me)!
For the mike the tip is for push to talk, the ring is for the mike and the
sleeve is for the ground which is signal ground not airframe ground.
For the phone plug (the big one) the tip and ring are left and right
'speakers' and sleeve is signal ground. I don't know which is left and
right. I'm monoaurual so I just connect them together so that I hear in
both ears.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Headset wiring - how? |
I bought my wife a nice little 'pocket' cd player for last xmas and she has
used it only once. Guess I need to fix her car radio and put the cd player
in Valentine ***LATER***
hal
----- Original Message -----
From: Cole, Ed <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com>
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2000 9:00 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Headset wiring - how?
>
> Hal,The Light Speeds are Stereo Headsets, so be sure to buy stereo jacks.
> 3 pins are left, right, and common. You can use them as monaural. Do you
> have
> a stereo intercom?
>
> Ed Cole
> Maxim Integrated Products
> Bldg. 120 Ext. 6605
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: kempthornes [SMTP:kempthornes(at)home.com]
> > Sent: Monday, November 13, 2000 8:04 AM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Headset wiring - how?
> >
> >
> > I need to wire headset jacks and I don't know how! I can solder but
what
> > to
> > what?
> >
> > My Lightspeeds have 3 contacts on each plug. What is the function of
> > each?
> >
> > hal
> > nordo till y'all help me!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Headset wiring - how? |
Hal,
The three rings means stereo. You need to check and see if you intercom is
also stereo. If it is then you will need to get stereo jacks. The wiring
hook-ups for the jacks should be included on your intercom wiring diagram.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS 3.1 hrs
>From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Headset wiring - how?
>Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2000 08:04:20 -0800
>
>
>I need to wire headset jacks and I don't know how! I can solder but what
>to
>what?
>
>My Lightspeeds have 3 contacts on each plug. What is the function of each?
>
>hal
>nordo till y'all help me!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
For those that might be interested I would like to pass on my approach and
findings to the elevator trim question as it relates to my RV6. Because of
my 6' 4" height and stiffness at my age I wanted to eliminate the center
console to make it easier to get in and out. In order to do this the
throttle, prop., mixture and trim control had to be relocated. The TPM were
not a problem as they go straight forward through the fire wall but the trim
because it loops back was another matter.
Over the years for what ever reason it has always been more natural for me
when flying a stick controlled aircraft to have the stick in my right hand
and the throttle in the left. By mounting a quadrant on the left side and
substituting Van's trim control for a cable control and lever mounted in the
forward part of the left arm rest the job was done.
I found that my RV6 180 HP CS combination flys with the trim tab basically
in neutral in cruise using 65% power. On a typical flight, trim is set at
neutral for take-off with one adjustment settling into the climb at 75%
another after leveling for cruise and a minor adjustments say every half
hour as fuel burns off. One as I slow in the landing pattern and one when
established on final. With the control comfortable for my left hand and the
small amount of movement required trimming for me is not an issue. The
deflection of the trim tab on my last adjustment on final is about a half
inch from neutral.
We are now at decision time on this subject on the 6A and our final decision
is to again eliminate the center console but this time locate the TPM on the
lower part of the instrument panel so that these controls are available to
the right side and keep the trim control in left arm rest as in the 6.
I feel more comfortable with the manual trim mainly because of the
simplicity and positive control that it affords.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Kevin,
We purchased our IO-360 from Dick Waters at Air-Tec. Support has been very
good. Expect to fire it up within the next 30-60 days.
We'll keep the list updated.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (fitting cowling)
Niantic, CT
>From: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "'Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM'"
>Subject: RV-List: Air-Tec
>Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 08:31:22 -0500
>
>
>
>Kevin,
>
> I purchased my engine from Air-Tec. I now have 1650+ trouble free
>hours
>on it.......
>
>
>Fred Stucklen
>N925RV (1650 hrs/7 Yrs)
>E. Windsor, CT 06088
>WK Email: stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com
>Hm/Travel Email: wstucklen1(at)juno.com
>
>
>___
> From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Question for engine guru
>
>
> Has anyone had any experience buying parts from Air-Tec Inc
>Orlando,
>Fl. Got
> a quote from them that looks good for some rebuilt jugs
> Thanks in advance
> Kevin Shannon
> -9a fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott" <scottaspencer(at)att.net> |
RV9 builders
I have just started work on my RV9 and was wondering how many RV9 builders
have chosen the O-235 for their power-plant and if any one plans on using
auto-fuel in their RV9 with the O-235?
Thanks
Scott A. Spencer
RV9 emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | New List MIME/HTML/Enclosure Filter Implemented... |
Dear Listers,
With the pervasiveness of email applications using HTML (web formatting)
and MIME encoding such as AOL 6.0, Netscape, Eudora and others it was
clear that I needed to come up with an improved method for limiting how
messages posted to the various Lists was handled.
As of today, November 13 2000 you should be able to configure your email
program any way you like - with or without special formatting - and your
message will still be accepted my the Matronics system. Also, if you
include any sort of enclosure data, your message will also still be
accepted instead of bounced back.
But wait, it gets even better! Everything except for the plain text
will be automatically stripped from the incoming post including any
HTML, MIME, and/or enclosure data prior to redistribution. This should
serve to both ease the configuration burden on the many users, and to
increase the readability of both the posted messages and the archives.
I had a few 'bugs' with the filter on Sunday and Monday morning, so if
you received a few messages that seemed "odd", than this was probably
why.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Anyone on the inside with Bob Knuckolls know when his website will be back
up? I really need to order some switches soon. I'd like to support list
members. But I'm an impatient sort...
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
11/13/2000 03:41:43 PM
Can you briefly describe your installation in your RV-4.....where did you
locate the servo......where /how did you link it in too the flifgt
controls..........Servo in the wingtip or the cabin......
Robert Graves (at)matronics.com on 11/11/2000 06:30:18 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: NavAid
Help! I reinstalled NavAid in my RV-4. Not many wires but I have
messed it up.
Can someone send me the wiring diagram ( external hook up)?? Would
appreciate this. Send off-line, if possible.
Robert
rlgbee(at)fnbnet.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Help-Sensenich installation challenge |
11/13/2000 03:45:29 PM
On the bright side you have the proper length bolts because if the threads
bottomed out(of the bolt) while torqueing the bolt you would have a false
reading as to the torque( a VERY common problem) .........Any luck with an
answer??
Michael McGee (at)matronics.com on 11/11/2000 09:16:34
PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Help-Sensenich installation challenge
Okay, I just trashed my new front spinner bulkhead while trying to
torque the prop bolts.
I have an O-320 with 7/16 prop bolts and the installation instructions says
to torque to 480-540 inch pounds.
This squeezed the metal under the bolts on the front spinner bulkhead
enough to completely distort it. I tried working the metal flat again and
re drilling the holes then using larger washers but it did the same thing
again. I think my first mistake was using the small diameter washers that
were supplied with the bolts.
In retrospect, of course this much bolt torque is going to extrude the
soft aluminum. I'm now at a loss as to how big the washers need to be so I
don't have to try it a third time.
You guys with 1/2" bolts on the O-360's, have you had this
problem? Surely I don't need a crush plate for the aluminum bulkhead do I?
Thanks in advance for the help.
Mike
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Aurora, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | 2000 List Contributions - Only 8% So Far... |
Dear Listers,
As of today, 11/13/00 only about 8% of the total list members have made
a contribution in 2000 to support the Email Lists. Compared to previous
years, this is a very low percentage for this point in the Fund Raiser.
If you enjoy the various Lists here on the Matronics servers as well as
the high speed access to the Archives and Search Engine, won't you
consider making a contribution to support the continued operation and
upkeep? Maintenance of these Lists represents a sizeable investment on
my part both in terms of time and personal finances and the contributions
from the List members goes a long way towards breaking even on the endeavor.
Remember that on December 1st I will be posting a Contributors List that
will include the names of everyone that has made a contribution in 2000.
Won't you assure that your name will be on that list and make a
contribution today? You can use either your Credit Card via a Secure,
SSL website or by Personal Check.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
P.O. Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
Once again, I would like to thank everyone that has made a contribution
so far! You truly make these Lists possible!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pierre R. Durand" <pierre(at)durand.net> |
| Subject: | New RV-9A builder |
I am preparing my order for an RV-9A and am making the list of tools I would
like to buy.
I have the recommended list of tools from Van's but I believe there may be
more to it.
Has anyone compiled a real list of tools that really make life easier
building an RV should money not be an obstacle.
My objective is to avoid having to say, "Had I known I would of bought that
at the beginning."
All opinions and ideas pertaining to building a workshop are appreciated.
I have a 22'x25' workshop that needs to be totally populated with worktables
and tools.
Pierre
pierre(at)durand.net
(204) 957-5029
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Pegasus Flight Performance Recorder |
Folks,
Anyone have any experience with this recorder? www.flightperformance.com It
looks like the Technology Kitchen Engine Power Monitor with a recording card
for later download. Appears to be useful during the flight test phase for
determing rates of whatever...
Having already seen the discussions on the TK EPM, I can understand the
limitations of their percent power calculations/display. What's the
possibility that by doing some envelope testing with an on-board recorder
that we could enhance the data that the original calculations were based on?
Interesting thought though.
I probably have enough gadgets already, but I'm trying to figure out if this
one has any benefits that other RV'ers have used on a regular basis.
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New RV-9A builder |
If you can download (and read) an Excel spreadsheet I can send you my master
tool list. This was overkill . . . ran about three grand . . . but left me
with just about everything I needed. There are things that make life easier
that I put on my "must have" list. Scothbrite wheel . . . drill guide for
nut plates . . . "scraper" for the canopy edge, uh . . . 90-degree drill
attachment . . . those have all helped. Good luck.
Rick Jory, RV8A QB
----- Original Message -----
From: Pierre R. Durand <pierre(at)durand.net>
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2000 2:35 PM
Subject: RV-List: New RV-9A builder
>
> I am preparing my order for an RV-9A and am making the list of tools I
would
> like to buy.
> I have the recommended list of tools from Van's but I believe there may be
> more to it.
> Has anyone compiled a real list of tools that really make life easier
> building an RV should money not be an obstacle.
> My objective is to avoid having to say, "Had I known I would of bought
that
> at the beginning."
>
> All opinions and ideas pertaining to building a workshop are appreciated.
>
> I have a 22'x25' workshop that needs to be totally populated with
worktables
> and tools.
>
>
> Pierre
> pierre(at)durand.net
> (204) 957-5029
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Pegasus Flight Performance Recorder |
>
>Folks,
>
>Anyone have any experience with this recorder? www.flightperformance.com It
>looks like the Technology Kitchen Engine Power Monitor with a recording card
>for later download. Appears to be useful during the flight test phase for
>determing rates of whatever...
>
>Having already seen the discussions on the TK EPM, I can understand the
>limitations of their percent power calculations/display. What's the
>possibility that by doing some envelope testing with an on-board recorder
>that we could enhance the data that the original calculations were based on?
>Interesting thought though.
>
>I probably have enough gadgets already, but I'm trying to figure out if this
>one has any benefits that other RV'ers have used on a regular basis.
>
>Ralph Capen
>
Well, I might be interested if you could export the data to a
spreadsheet so you could manipulate it. Getting the raw data is only
half the battle. The other half is plotting it out, deciding which
test points are keepers, and which ones are junk, correcting the good
ones to standard conditions, etc.
Neat idea though.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.E. Butcher" <sirs(at)neosoft.com> |
| Subject: | Time to climb record |
Just goes to show you what a pile of various RV parts can do in the
hands of a master...
BRUCE BOHANNON AND EXXON FLYIN' TIGER GRAB THIRD WORLD RECORD: Earlier
this
month Bruce Bohannon -- the light aircraft time-to-climb meister -- set
an unofficial world record of 6 minutes 37 seconds for Time to Climb
(TTC) to 6,000 meters in his Exxon Flyin' Tiger. Bohannon set the
record on November 5th at his home court: Bruce's own "Flyin' Tiger"
airport in Angleton, Texas. The Exxon Flyin' Tiger now holds all three
TTC records in the C-1.B class.
NOTE: AVweb's NewsWire <http://avweb.com/n/?46a> includes whose
record Bohannon broke plus a link to AVweb's AirVenture 2000
coverage of his TTC record attempts at Oshkosh.
Ernie Butcher
RV-8 N99SU Still in the paint shop!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Fairing the Tail Tie-Down Ring on RV's |
John,
I would like to see the tie down ring fairing, send pic please.
Bob
imfairings(at)aol.com
Fairings Etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Time to climb record |
Doesn't hurt to have Mattituck supply you with a supper trick Nitros
burning Lyc 0540 either.
Tom
RV3
R.E. Butcher wrote:
>
> Just goes to show you what a pile of various RV parts can do in the
> hands of a master...
>
> BRUCE BOHANNON AND EXXON FLYIN' TIGER GRAB THIRD WORLD RECORD: Earlier
> this
> month Bruce Bohannon -- the light aircraft time-to-climb meister -- set
> an unofficial world record of 6 minutes 37 seconds for Time to Climb
> (TTC) to 6,000 meters in his Exxon Flyin' Tiger. Bohannon set the
> record on November 5th at his home court: Bruce's own "Flyin' Tiger"
> airport in Angleton, Texas. The Exxon Flyin' Tiger now holds all three
> TTC records in the C-1.B class.
>
> NOTE: AVweb's NewsWire <http://avweb.com/n/?46a> includes whose
> record Bohannon broke plus a link to AVweb's AirVenture 2000
> coverage of his TTC record attempts at Oshkosh.
>
> Ernie Butcher
> RV-8 N99SU Still in the paint shop!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Time to climb record |
In a message dated 11/13/2000 7:25:58 PM Central Standard Time,
bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net writes:
<<
Doesn't hurt to have Mattituck supply you with a supper trick Nitros
burning Lyc 0540 either.
Tom
RV3 >>
Hate to tell you this, but they took that engine away from him. No more
nitrous. Also Team Rocket Aircraft designed and build a wonderful plane for
him. Great things happen when you take the RV and modify them.
Chris wilcox
F1 rocket
kit 000
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RMI setting for 0360/bendix, need info |
I have a 0360 with bendix injector and was trying to set my RMI today and
realized I didn't know all my ranges. Anyone have the min/max ranges for
EGT, CHT, oil pres, oill temp, fuel pres, fuel flow, redline, etc...
Thanks,
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | earl fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Time to climb record |
Does anyone know how much difference the nitrous engine made?
CW9371(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 11/13/2000 7:25:58 PM Central Standard Time,
> bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
> <<
> Doesn't hurt to have Mattituck supply you with a supper trick Nitros
> burning Lyc 0540 either.
> Tom
> RV3 >>
>
> Hate to tell you this, but they took that engine away from him. No more
> nitrous. Also Team Rocket Aircraft designed and build a wonderful plane for
> him. Great things happen when you take the RV and modify them.
>
> Chris wilcox
> F1 rocket
> kit 000
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | The Unified Appeal |
Look guys, I know that most of you wouldn't pull away from the gas pump
without paying after you filled up your tank. Heck you probably give a few
bucks to every person that comes to your door asking for money for a
charity that you hope you never need. Well look at me as that person
at the door........I'm asking you to give a few bucks to Matt for giving
us this list. Lets help Matt defray some of his costs. I am here asking you
to do the right thing. Make a donation. It will make YOU feel better and
you will be able to ask the list for help when you need it without feeling
guilty for taking a free ride. I'm sure there is something that you have
read on The List that has helped you in some way. Well how about paying a
little something for it? Just throw a few shekels Matt's way to help the
poor guy out. It's relatively painless and simple to do....... just click
on:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or send a check to:
Matt Dralle
c/o Matronics
P.O. Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
About out of gas............................ AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stereo decks |
Another option: The Visor, from Handspring, has an add-on module that play
MP3s. Good features. See http://handspring.com/
-Larry
--- Stan and Pat Roberts wrote:
>
> Hey listers here's a new one to consider. It's called
> a Nomad Jukebox by Creative (877)-653-6227
> www.nomadworld.com. It's an mp3 player that will hold
> 100hrs of music and doesn't skip for about $500.
> Prices will probably shrink as more competition enters
> this relatively new arena. This unit looks like your
> usual portable CD player only slightly bigger. It will
> also copy your existing CD's into its 6GB hard drive.
> I saw it in this Sunday's (11-12-00) paper computer
> section. Good luck SR
> --- CW9371(at)AOL.COM wrote:
> >
> > In a message dated 11/7/2000 3:01:07 PM Central
> > Standard Time,
> > bcbraem(at)home.com writes:
> >
> > << Chris--
> >
> > Do you have model#. I called the local audio shop
> > and they didn't have
> > a clue about the Aiwa (sp?).
> >
> > Thanks
snip
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Time to climb record |
In a message dated 11/13/2000 7:51:01 PM Central Standard Time,
e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< Does anyone know how much difference the nitrous engine made >>
He only used the nitrous engine to set the first record. He blew it to many
times. He used a standard engine from Oshkosh on. I think its was 480 hp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | wiring Van's guages |
I'm using 5 of Van's new gauges. Each gauge has an 18 awg wire for
electrical power attached to a stud on the back of the instrument with a
ring terminal. Van's instructions indicates the power wires can be
connected together and connected to just one fuse or breaker. I'm not sure
how to connect them together. My inclination is to run the wire from one
gauge to the power stud of the next until all guages are "daisy chained" and
then the last instrument will have the wire running to the fuse.
These instruments are lighted and I want to do the same thing with the light
power wires and connect them to the dimmer.
Will this work??
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage....electrically challenged.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wiring Van's guages |
Jerry: What I did was connect the light and the power wires to terminal
strips for convenience and make it easier to troubles shoot later. I really
like the indicator when operating the engine, they seem to be real stable.
My thoughts only.
Harvey Sigmon - RV6AQB - Final stuff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com>
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2000 10:22 PM
Subject: RV-List: wiring Van's guages
>
> I'm using 5 of Van's new gauges. Each gauge has an 18 awg wire for
> electrical power attached to a stud on the back of the instrument with a
> ring terminal. Van's instructions indicates the power wires can be
> connected together and connected to just one fuse or breaker. I'm not
sure
> how to connect them together. My inclination is to run the wire from one
> gauge to the power stud of the next until all guages are "daisy chained"
and
> then the last instrument will have the wire running to the fuse.
>
> These instruments are lighted and I want to do the same thing with the
light
> power wires and connect them to the dimmer.
>
> Will this work??
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok
> -6 fuselage....electrically challenged.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wiring Van's guages |
Harvey,
Thanks for your thoughts. I had considered terminal strips and also Bob's
minibus to take care of power and grounds. You can see the minibus at
<http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/minibus.jpg>
The "daisy chained" method just seemed to knock down the parts count
considerably. I just don't know if the instrument at the end of the chain
will get sufficient power.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: Harvey Sigmon <flyhars(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2000 9:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: wiring Van's guages
>
> Jerry: What I did was connect the light and the power wires to terminal
> strips for convenience and make it easier to troubles shoot later. I
really
> like the indicator when operating the engine, they seem to be real stable.
> My thoughts only.
> Harvey Sigmon - RV6AQB - Final stuff
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, November 13, 2000 10:22 PM
> Subject: RV-List: wiring Van's guages
>
>
> >
> > I'm using 5 of Van's new gauges. Each gauge has an 18 awg wire for
> > electrical power attached to a stud on the back of the instrument with a
> > ring terminal. Van's instructions indicates the power wires can be
> > connected together and connected to just one fuse or breaker. I'm not
> sure
> > how to connect them together. My inclination is to run the wire from
one
> > gauge to the power stud of the next until all guages are "daisy chained"
> and
> > then the last instrument will have the wire running to the fuse.
> >
> > These instruments are lighted and I want to do the same thing with the
> light
> > power wires and connect them to the dimmer.
> >
> > Will this work??
> >
> > Jerry Calvert
> > Edmond Ok
> > -6 fuselage....electrically challenged.
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: RV-list: Elevator Electric Trim Authority |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> What is the distance from tab hinge center line to hole center in the
horn?
> My preview plans showing electric elevator trim don't give that
dimension.
> It is two inches on drawing 5a for the manual trim system. I'd like to
try a
> shorter horn with my Gretz trim.
> Thanks.
> Denis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 11 hours
> Hampshire, IL C38
>
Denis,
Sorry, my plans do not show dimensions on either the manual or electric
version nor are they full size. The ratio between the two is
approximately 3:4, measuring off the drawing. This was approximately
consistent with the 1.4" for the electric and 1.9" for manual mentioned
in the MAC servo literature. My trim tab is difficult to get to at the
moment, but I would suggest if 2" is indicated on your plans, then
1.4-1.5 would be in the ball park.
Scott McD. comments about arbitarily reducing the length of the horn. I
don't think anyone is planning to do this, we just need to replicate the
precise length Vans intended.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
The length that is currently supplied with the electric trim kit is the
one that is intended (and as far as I know the only one that has ever
been supplied).
The only change that has been made in the horn was when the prepunched
trim tab was introduced.
The horns are exactly the same but the part # changed to account for the
P.P. holes that match the trim tab skin and spar.
I guess I didn't make it totally clear. The comment about arbitrarily
reducing the length of the horn was in response to someone considering
shortening it enough to put the entire horn and push rod inside of the
elevator profile (not necessarily the post that I had attached to my
reply). This would increase the torque requirement of the servo and
increase the sensitivity. As long as you use the standard electric trim
control horns it should work fine.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: gyro connectors |
In a message dated 11/13/00 4:55:15 AM Pacific Standard Time, ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< i found the connector number which is ( MS3116E8-4S ) thats the type
of
connector i need 2 of them, please advise. >>
ACS lists them on pg 320 under the RC Allen electric gyros.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich <houndsfour(at)mediaone.net> |
I'm at the point of mounting the my prop. I've got a wood prop and a
2 1/2" extension.
My problem is I need AN7-68. Van only has AN7-82. Any ideas?
I'm trying to fly on Dec. 25, 00
Rich
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Richardson" <kpd_307(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wiring Van's guages |
Jerry,
This would work for you with the last gauge working fine, with some
drawbacks to later troubleshooting and reliability. Due to the reliability
and failsafe problems, I would choose to do it another way. What you are
describing is a series DC circuit and the voltage drops but the current
remains the same for each gauge, until one of the wires stops conducting for
any reason, ie... breakage, burning out etc. which will not only take out
the guage where the wire broke, but each other gauge following in the
circuit.
If you will connect all of the wires into a single ring terminal, connecting
this terminal to your power lug, each of the guages will be connected to
it's own voltage source limiting any failure to the single bad gauge. This
is a parallel circuit, and while the voltage will remain the same to each
gauge, the current will drop across each gauge. To figure your fuse size
total all current usages by each gauge on that circuit and add your safety
net, or just step up to the next size fuse. Also make sure your supply wire
is heavy enough to handle the complete load.
Good luck.
Greg Richardson
Kokomo, IN RV9A (empennage)
> > > I'm using 5 of Van's new gauges. Each gauge has an 18 awg wire for
> > > electrical power attached to a stud on the back of the instrument with
>a
> > > ring terminal. Van's instructions indicates the power wires can be
> > > connected together and connected to just one fuse or breaker. I'm not
> > sure
> > > how to connect them together. My inclination is to run the wire from
>one
> > > gauge to the power stud of the next until all guages are "daisy
>chained"
> > and
> > > then the last instrument will have the wire running to the fuse.
> > > These instruments are lighted and I want to do the same thing with the
> > light
> > > power wires and connect them to the dimmer.
> > > Will this work??
> > > Jerry Calvert
> > > Edmond Ok
> > > -6 fuselage....electrically challenged.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terminaltown(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | New How To For Switches |
rocket-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com, zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Hello Lister: Thank you to all of you who responded so favorably to the How
To tab solder with solder seals.
I've got a new page up showing how to resolve the mysterious code that is
used to describe toggle switch function or as the link to the page says Terminal Town's: What
does SPDT Mean to a switch? Or
http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/Page81.html
Best regards,
John Caldwell@ Terminal Town's Home
Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Flight Test Cards |
I've converted Clay Smith's flight test log cards to HTML format, and put
them on the Western Canada Wing web site. You can see them at
http://www.vansairforce.org/flight_test/
You can also download Clay's original MS Word file from the same page.
Tedd McHenry
Van's Air Force
Western Canada Wing
tedd(at)vansairforce.org
http://www.vansairforce.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New RV-9A builder |
> Has anyone compiled a real list of tools that really make life easier
> building an RV should money not be an obstacle.
In the FAQ you received when you signed up for the list, there is just such
a list of tools. It was compiled before the advent of QB kits but I think
it's pretty apropo even so. Go to the home wing web site for an HTML copy:
http://www.edt.com/homewing/faq.html
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fairing the Tail Tie-Down Ring on RV's |
I would also like to see them.
abayman(at)aol.com
scott
tampa
rv6a panel wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Try Senenich or Wag-Aero
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich" <houndsfour(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2000 12:00 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re:Prop bolts
>
> I'm at the point of mounting the my prop. I've got a wood prop and a
> 2 1/2" extension.
> My problem is I need AN7-68. Van only has AN7-82. Any ideas?
> I'm trying to fly on Dec. 25, 00
> Rich
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Time to climb record |
CRIS NOTHING LIKE A MODFIED RV-8 REGARDS TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New RV-9A builder |
Pierre,
Like me, you will find out that Avery's (or anybody else's) RV tool kit has
a lot but by no means all of the tools you will need. Some tools fall into
the "nice to have" category (like a pneumatic rivet squeezer or cleco tool),
some are the "must have". You will acquire a lot of dies, dimplers, drill
bits, countersink bits, etc. that aren't on that list. Before you buy stuff
you may not use too frequently, check with your local EAA chapter (you DO
belong to a chapter, don't you?) and/or local metal airplane builders to see
what they can lend you. I have several tools loaned to me for the duration
of my project that I don't have to buy, which frees up money for stuff I
need and can't find locally. I probably have $500.00 worth of stuff that
wasn't on Avery's list, and my collection is growing.
Good luck on your project, and welcome to the list!
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A N143DJ
Wings
>From: "Pierre R. Durand" <pierre(at)durand.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: ,
>Subject: RV-List: New RV-9A builder
>Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2000 15:35:26 -0600
>
>
>I am preparing my order for an RV-9A and am making the list of tools I
>would
>like to buy.
>I have the recommended list of tools from Van's but I believe there may be
>more to it.
>Has anyone compiled a real list of tools that really make life easier
>building an RV should money not be an obstacle.
>My objective is to avoid having to say, "Had I known I would of bought that
>at the beginning."
>
>All opinions and ideas pertaining to building a workshop are appreciated.
>
>I have a 22'x25' workshop that needs to be totally populated with
>worktables
>and tools.
>
>
>Pierre
>pierre(at)durand.net
>(204) 957-5029
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: stark avionics |
anyone know the website or phone # to stark avionics? i'm looking for a
garmin 295 gps map and a garmin 327 transponder
thanks in advance
scott
tampa
rv6a panel wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI setting for 0360/bendix, need info |
>
>I have a 0360 with bendix injector and was trying to set my RMI today and
>realized I didn't know all my ranges. Anyone have the min/max ranges for
>EGT, CHT, oil pres, oill temp, fuel pres, fuel flow, redline, etc...
>Thanks,
>Carey Mills
>
You can get this info from the engine Type Certificate Data Sheet
(TCDS). Figure out what your engine is equivalent to, and use that
model. You've now got something like an IO-360-B dash something.
The IO-360 TCDS is at:
http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgMakeModel.nsf/edc23c1f1925ea3d852567620053a3c5/fedad213fc7dc57a852567a7004d1cbb/$FILE/1e10.pdf
This link is so long that it will get cut into two or more lines by
the wonders of e-mail. You've got to copy and paste it back into one
line or it won't work. Alternatively, you can find the link in the
Engine section of my RV Links page, at:
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks.html
If you use the link from my page, it'll take you to a sort of
intermediate page. You've got to click on the .PDF link in the top
left corner of that page to get where you need to go.
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: stark avionics |
Scott,
I've ordered from him - great guy - great prices...
JOHN STARK
706-321-1008
jts7(at)mindspring.com
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: stark avionics |
In a message dated 11/14/00 6:27:17 AM Pacific Standard Time, ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< anyone know the website or phone # to stark avionics? i'm looking for a
garmin 295 gps map and a garmin 327 transponder >>
Scott-
We have John Stark listed in the Yeller Pages.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight Test Cards |
Wow! This is great! Thank you Randy and Clay for a fine resource.As soon
as my oil consumption stabilizes and CHTs drop I'll use these.
I have concerns about some of the flight test information supplied by Van's.
I still cringe when I read the section on Stability Investigations/Lateral
Check (Ref 6S15.DOC 5/22/97 15-11):
"Trim level and hold a heading with the rudder. Move the stick to the
MAXIMUM LEFT OR RIGHT POSITION AND RELEASE IT (caps for emphasis). The wing
should return to a level attitude."
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 11 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org>
Date: Tuesday, November 14, 2000 1:03 AM
Subject: RV-List: Flight Test Cards
>
>I've converted Clay Smith's flight test log cards to HTML format, and put
>them on the Western Canada Wing web site. You can see them at
>
>http://www.vansairforce.org/flight_test/
>
>You can also download Clay's original MS Word file from the same page.
>
>Tedd McHenry
>Van's Air Force
>Western Canada Wing
>tedd(at)vansairforce.org
>http://www.vansairforce.org
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
writes:
>
> RV9 builders
>
> I have just started work on my RV9 and was wondering how many RV9
> builders
> have chosen the O-235 for their power-plant and if any one plans on
> using
> auto-fuel in their RV9 with the O-235?
>
> Thanks
> Scott A. Spencer
> RV9 emp
Talking about auto fuel. Can it be found on many airfields?
Do you think it will be coming onto more airfields as time goes on?
Any thoughts on this.
Cecil Hatfield
Thousand Oaks California
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Ivey <jim(at)jimivey.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Yak-List: New List MIME/HTML/Enclosure Filter Implemented... |
Everything you need to know can be found at the following url:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution/
I just used the secure credit-card option. There is also a snail-mail
address for you old-fashioned types (i.e. back in the good old days when
folks wouldn't abscond with your credit card info) ;)
Jim Ivey
N46YK
Matt Dralle wrote:
> --> Yak-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> With the pervasiveness of email applications using HTML (web formatting)
> and MIME encoding such as AOL 6.0, Netscape, Eudora and others it was
> clear that I needed to come up with an improved method for limiting how
> messages posted to the various Lists was handled.
>
> As of today, November 13 2000 you should be able to configure your email
> program any way you like - with or without special formatting - and your
> message will still be accepted my the Matronics system. Also, if you
> include any sort of enclosure data, your message will also still be
> accepted instead of bounced back.
>
> But wait, it gets even better! Everything except for the plain text
> will be automatically stripped from the incoming post including any
> HTML, MIME, and/or enclosure data prior to redistribution. This should
> serve to both ease the configuration burden on the many users, and to
> increase the readability of both the posted messages and the archives.
>
> I had a few 'bugs' with the filter on Sunday and Monday morning, so if
> you received a few messages that seemed "odd", than this was probably
> why.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Matt Dralle
> Matronics Email List Admin.
>
> --
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
> Great minds discuss ideas,
> Average minds discuss events,
> Small minds discuss people...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight Test Cards |
>
>Wow! This is great! Thank you Randy and Clay for a fine resource.As soon
>as my oil consumption stabilizes and CHTs drop I'll use these.
>
>I have concerns about some of the flight test information supplied by Van's.
>I still cringe when I read the section on Stability Investigations/Lateral
>Check (Ref 6S15.DOC 5/22/97 15-11):
>"Trim level and hold a heading with the rudder. Move the stick to the
>MAXIMUM LEFT OR RIGHT POSITION AND RELEASE IT (caps for emphasis). The wing
>should return to a level attitude."
>
>Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 11 hours
>Hampshire, IL C38
That is a classical FAR 23 flight test technique, but you sure don't
want to use full aileron. Basically you start off stabilized in a
side slip, on a constant heading. If you use rudder as required to
keep the nose on the same spot on the horizon as you slowly relax the
pressure on the ailerons, the wings should come back towards level.
This tells you that you have a normal dihedral effect. Mind you, I
suspect that you would really have to monkey around with something to
screw up the dihedral effect in an RV.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: stark avionics |
In a message dated 11/14/00 6:27:17 AM Pacific Standard Time, ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< anyone know the website or phone # to stark avionics >>
John Stark Aviation
706-321-1008
www.mindspring.com/~jts7/starkav.html).
E-mail: jts7(at)mindspring.com.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William B. Culberson" <billc(at)ceebic.org> |
| Subject: | Re: wiring Van's guages |
I would not daisy chain them together. If you do that and one connection is bad,
you loose all instruments down the line from that. Run separate power lines to
the CB.
Bill Culberson
Star Aviation
RV8 - Just starting
Jerry Calvert wrote:
>
> I'm using 5 of Van's new gauges. Each gauge has an 18 awg wire for
> electrical power attached to a stud on the back of the instrument with a
> ring terminal. Van's instructions indicates the power wires can be
> connected together and connected to just one fuse or breaker. I'm not sure
> how to connect them together. My inclination is to run the wire from one
> gauge to the power stud of the next until all guages are "daisy chained" and
> then the last instrument will have the wire running to the fuse.
>
> These instruments are lighted and I want to do the same thing with the light
> power wires and connect them to the dimmer.
>
> Will this work??
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok
> -6 fuselage....electrically challenged.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton"<dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
The search for an unleaded fuel which will perform properly in aviation
engines
has been less then successful. If all leaded fuels are banned in the future
there are going to be a lot of high horsepower (high compression) engines out
there that won't be happy at all. Not only is autogas less expensive, but if
your engine will burn mogas without complaint you'll be OK if low-lead gets
outlawed.
While there are lots of people who burn mogas, the discussions I've had
have
in the past convinced me that the cost saving is not worth the risk for me at
the moment.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Riveting skins to bottom of F804 |
Hmm. the server does not seem to like my messages..
1st one had wrong return address
2nd never got posted
Okay 3rd time lucky.................here goes........
I am about to rivet and dimple the bottom skins to the F804.
I am interested to know what my fellow RV8A builders have done with the
5 flushhead rivets, flush on the inside, where the landing gear brackets
bolt to the F804.
Maybe somebody with a RV8A quickbuild can give some insight how Van's
does it
Thanks in advance
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
"RV-8-List (E-mail)"
| Subject: | Wanted RV8 wing kit |
Just finishing up the tail and it is time to start thinking about a RV8 wing
kit or my kids college. Oh let's go with the wing! Would prefer one that
has not been started. Please respond off-line to pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com or
call. Thanks!
Jack Textor
RV8 tail
Des Moines, IA
515-243-7687 wk
515-277-4173 hm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Instrument mounting hardware? |
Hi All,
Well, I'm finally about to start work on my panel and I'm wondering
about the correct hardware. The Aircraft Spruce catalog shows three
different kinds of brass instrument screws: round head, pan head & flat
head. I think that the pan head screws are the correct choice, but I'm
not sure. What have others done here? I'm assuming that 6/32" is the
correct size for most (all?) instruments & avionics that need screws,
but again I'm not sure. Comments? Regarding length, short of measuring
the thickness of every instrument I've got, could I just go with the 1"
screws and ignore the extra length where & when it may exist? As to
nuts, the Spruce catalog has cage-type brass instrument mounting 'speed'
nuts. Are these the right items? It looks like I'm going to have to
measure the thickness of all my instruments after all, in order to
obtain the correct nuts. Am I missing anything here?
The learning portion of the homebuilding experience continues... :-)
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 N118KB (reserved)
assorted endless cockpit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
dear listers,
anyone out there putting electronic ignition and have the new mags and
harness for sale?
please respond off list.
thanks in advance.
scott
tampa rv6a panel wiring
abayman(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument mounting hardware? |
>
>
>Hi All,
>
>Well, I'm finally about to start work on my panel and I'm wondering
>about the correct hardware. >--
>Regards,
>Ken Balch
Ken,
You will need to suit the hardware for each instrument. Some have simple
through-holes so the bolt length doesn't matter. Can just use #6 bolts and
nuts. Some instruments may have threaded holes with limited depth. Gotta
check those first. I used steel, black oxide button head allen screws on
most instruments, with stop nuts. Use what makes sense and looks good to
you. Brass, steel, stainless, whatever. Place each instrument in it's
hole, jot down what you'll need to mount it (length, thread size, and if it
needs a nut) and just make a shopping list. Go to local bolt and fitting
store with your shopping list, and hand over cash. Mount 'em up and go fly.
:)
Brian Denk
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Time to climb record |
Not to be picky Tom, but the artical in Sport Aviation said it was a
modified 4.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
>
> CRIS NOTHING LIKE A MODFIED RV-8 REGARDS TOM
>
> Thomas M. Whelan
>
> Whelan Farms Airport
> Post Office Box 426
> 249 Hard Hill Road North
> Bethlehem, CT 06751
>
> PH 203-266-5300
> FAX 203-266-5140
> e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
>
> EAA Chapter 1097, President
> RV-8 IO-540 LYC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Web Update - Wing Conduit Installation |
When it came time to install the wing conduit I found a bunch of people
did it a bunch of different ways. The attached link documents my
version of the wing conduit installation.
http://mnellis.jnet.net/RV-6_Page/wings_assembly_skeleton_2.htm
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Wills" <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument mounting hardware? |
> >Hi All,
> >
> >Well, I'm finally about to start work on my panel and I'm wondering
> >about the correct hardware. >--
> >Regards,
> >Ken Balch
>
>Ken,
> Go to local bolt and fitting
>store with your shopping list, and hand over cash. Mount 'em up and go fly.
>:)
>
>Brian Denk
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
When you decide what you want/need check out McMaster-Carr. Just about
every possible type of fastener you can imagine and the prices are
reasonable. I used stainless button head allen screws for mine.
http://www.mcmaster.com/
Mike Wills
RV4 engine stuff (Mazda 13B)
willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Time to climb record |
JOE IM TALKING ABOUT MINE.TIO540S1AD LYC GETTING CLOSE TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rvpilot" <rvpilot(at)coollink.net> |
| Subject: | Herga Press. switch |
To all who asked for more info on the Herga low range Diff. Press. switch,
I got mine from Newark Electronics.
It was stock # 46WX771 Farnell Part# 731912.
(Farnell was swallowed up by Newark awhile back) Cost was around $33.
Best Regards, Bill N48WD
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | Re: Time to climb record |
| From: | "Denis (Bum) Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 11/14/00 17:16, Joe Hine at joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca wrote:
Hate to chime in and share my ignorance but I believe most listers would be
very interested to know exactly what the "tiger" really is. I saw it at Sun
N fun a year and a half ago and what it looked like to me was a team rocket!
I believe it was built by check six mark so if he is still on the list
perhaps he could enlighten us??
D Walsh
>
> Not to be picky Tom, but the artical in Sport Aviation said it was a
> modified 4.
>
> Joe Hine
> RV4 C-FYTQ
>
>>
>> CRIS NOTHING LIKE A MODFIED RV-8 REGARDS TOM
>>
>> Thomas M. Whelan
>>
>> Whelan Farms Airport
>> Post Office Box 426
>> 249 Hard Hill Road North
>> Bethlehem, CT 06751
>>
>> PH 203-266-5300
>> FAX 203-266-5140
>> e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
>>
>> EAA Chapter 1097, President
>> RV-8 IO-540 LYC
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Time to climb record |
In a message dated 11/14/00 8:53:16 PM Eastern Standard Time,
deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net writes:
> Hate to chime in and share my ignorance but I believe most listers would be
> very interested to know exactly what the "tiger" really is. I saw it at
Sun
> N fun a year and a half ago and what it looked like to me was a team
rocket!
> I believe it was built by check six mark so if he is still on the list
> perhaps he could enlighten us??
>
> D Walsh
IIRC, the article in Sport Aviation indicated that it uses RV-4 wings
(standard length, not cut-down to Rocket length), RV-4 tail, modified RV-4
fuselage (not a Rocket, but not an RV-4 either), and an Rv-3 canopy.'
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | EGT min/max for RMI |
I found most of the settings on Kevin's web site, but couldn't find the EGT.
What values are you guy's using?
Thanks,
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Time to climb record |
The earlier Exxon Flyin' Tiger descriptions were mostly right. I live near
Bruce and hang out at his field a bit. The fuse from the cockpit back is
basically a -4. Cockpit forward is customized(mostly Rocketized). It has
been strengthened in some areas. The wings are a little longer than a
standard -4(maybe a foot?). I believe the horizontal tail is -6 and vertical
tail is -8. It has a -3 style slider canopy with a quick release system.
Manual elevator trim, no flaps. He's currently running a big IO 540+ size
engine with no nitrous. Just raw stroker horsepower. He planned to take the
record Saturday the 4th. at his home field during his fly-in, but rain
prevailed. I didn't go back Sunday morning, but he evidently got a hole in
the clouds big enough to punch up through it. I wish Bruce the best of luck.
He sure works hard at these attempts.
Troy Black
-8 emp. done
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument mounting hardware? |
Ken:
I used brass screws (pan head), bolts & washers I purchased from Lowe's
(also available at Home Depot & local hardware store. They were cheap and
quickly available when I undercounted and also dropped some into limbo.
Except for a couple of gyros, none of my instruments were fussy about the
length of the screws. I mostly used 3/4" but 1" would have worked just as
well. I like the looks of the screws on the panel.
George
RV-8
N888GK (reserved)
ready to hang the engine
>
> Hi All,
>
> Well, I'm finally about to start work on my panel and I'm wondering
> about the correct hardware. The Aircraft Spruce catalog shows three
> different kinds of brass instrument screws: round head, pan head & flat
> head. I think that the pan head screws are the correct choice, but I'm
> not sure. What have others done here? I'm assuming that 6/32" is the
> correct size for most (all?) instruments & avionics that need screws,
> but again I'm not sure. Comments? Regarding length, short of measuring
> the thickness of every instrument I've got, could I just go with the 1"
> screws and ignore the extra length where & when it may exist? As to
> nuts, the Spruce catalog has cage-type brass instrument mounting 'speed'
> nuts. Are these the right items? It looks like I'm going to have to
> measure the thickness of all my instruments after all, in order to
> obtain the correct nuts. Am I missing anything here?
>
> The learning portion of the homebuilding experience continues... :-)
>
> --
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125 N118KB (reserved)
> assorted endless cockpit stuff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wiring Van's guages |
Jerry:
I connected mine in parallel (wire to each ring connectory, other end of
wires joined in one end of a wire splice. Second wire from end of wire
splice to +12V or ground). I wouldn't connect them in series (wires between
the terminal posts) because if you have a failure at any point you'll lose
every instrument "south" of that failure.
George Kilishek
RV8 N888GK (reserved)
Engine stuff
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Calvert <rv6bldr(at)home.com>
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2000 9:22 PM
Subject: RV-List: wiring Van's guages
>
> I'm using 5 of Van's new gauges. Each gauge has an 18 awg wire for
> electrical power attached to a stud on the back of the instrument with a
> ring terminal. Van's instructions indicates the power wires can be
> connected together and connected to just one fuse or breaker. I'm not
sure
> how to connect them together. My inclination is to run the wire from one
> gauge to the power stud of the next until all guages are "daisy chained"
and
> then the last instrument will have the wire running to the fuse.
>
> These instruments are lighted and I want to do the same thing with the
light
> power wires and connect them to the dimmer.
>
> Will this work??
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok
> -6 fuselage....electrically challenged.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt <meads1(at)theramp.net> |
| Subject: | High altitude performance |
Does anyone know what a turbo-normalized 6/8 is capable of in the flight
levels? Up in the high teens say, I'm wondering why you don't see turbo
RV's out there.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Exxon Flyin' Tiger heritage |
In a message dated 11/15/00 1:59:57 AM Central Standard Time,
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<< Hate to chime in and share my ignorance but I believe most listers would be
very interested to know exactly what the "tiger" really is. I saw it at Sun
N fun a year and a half ago and what it looked like to me was a team rocket!
I believe it was built by check six mark so if he is still on the list
perhaps he could enlighten us??
D Walsh >>
Hi all:
Rest easy -- the Tiger has substantial RV heritage. Van can be proud! Yep, it
was built in my shop. It was the last ship built here before initializing the
Team Rocket project. It wouldn't actually be that hard to duplicate the ship
-- it's the sponsors that are hard to get!
Here's a run-down of some of the parts used:
wings: straight RV-4 (small tanks) with sheared tips. 24' span. Since the
ship uses a Rocket spar bulkhead, we had to install a 4" spacer between the
spar ends, and make up new splice plates.
Fuselage: Rocket from the longerons down; -4 turtledeck; one-off boot cowl.
The boot cowl was a real challenge. The cowl is modified to accept a parallel
valve 540 with an angle valve induction system and provide the extra cooling
needed.
tail feathers: -8 vertical surfaces; -4 horizontal sfcs (modified
counterweights); manual trim.
Canopy: RV-3 plexi using a Pitts-type mechanism. Another one-off...
Bruce sits in the back seat (9' from the prop), and the rudder pedals are
just fwd of the main spar. I haven't had a chance to hop the thing, but Bruce
claims it's very comfortable. LOTS of luggage space in the 'front seat' area,
which also houses an aux tank for the long distance stuff (remember the small
wing tanks). This area was intended to hold the nitrous tanks, along with the
luggage area. If I recall correct, it was capable of holding 9 ea 20 lb
cylinders?
The Mattituck engine utilizes an amazing compression ratio (around 12:1!) and
puts out more HP than you would believe. That plane gives very high cruise
speeds on very low MP/RPM combos. We have discussed this, and it might be
that the canopy placement is optimal for low drag, but the cooling drag is
higher. Go figure! The original 6 pipe exhaust gave a very individualized
note, but I understand that a 6 into 1 is now used.
It as fun to build a ship like this, and it good to see Bruce & his crew
succeed with it. That nitrous was concerning all involved, because it worked
so good on the ground, but didn't deliver such consistency in the air. The
current fire-breathing motor does a fine job without being 'on the bottle'.
This is sort of a condensed version, but you get the picture.
Check Six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: High altitude performance |
In a message dated 11/15/2000 3:25:33 AM Central Standard Time,
meads1(at)theramp.net writes:
<< Does anyone know what a turbo-normalized 6/8 is capable of in the flight
levels? Up in the high teens say, I'm wondering why you don't see turbo
RV's out there.
>>
Weight of a turbo engine. Have you looked at the size difference also. I
am looking at a turbo normalized 3 rotor mazda engine, but their not ready to
sell them yet so I am just waiting to see what happens. But that engine with
cooling system and reduction gear will be about 75 lbs lighter then a IO-540
and the engine should run about 350-400 hp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Instrument mounting hardware? |
11/15/2000 09:02:39 AM
Be sure to order extra and pickle the extra screws if you go with something
fancy. Months/years down the pike you won't be able to find the special
screws and your panel starts to look cheesy because the mix/match of
screws. I went with Stainless allens ....looks real sharp.....don't think
I'll be able to find them 5 years from now....at least not
easily......solution--stashed some away for future use......this is
definitely a nit but worth it later
"Mike Wills" (at)matronics.com on 11/14/2000 07:48:51
PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Instrument mounting hardware?
> >Hi All,
> >
> >Well, I'm finally about to start work on my panel and I'm wondering
> >about the correct hardware. >--
> >Regards,
> >Ken Balch
>
>Ken,
> Go to local bolt and fitting
>store with your shopping list, and hand over cash. Mount 'em up and go
fly.
>:)
>
>Brian Denk
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
When you decide what you want/need check out McMaster-Carr. Just about
every possible type of fastener you can imagine and the prices are
reasonable. I used stainless button head allen screws for mine.
http://www.mcmaster.com/
Mike Wills
RV4 engine stuff (Mazda 13B)
willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Half Way There........ |
Well folks, It's November 15th and the Fundraiser month is halfway over.
Let's take a moment and reflect on where we are at this time.
1. Econimists tell us that we have a strong economy and wages and
employment are up.
2. Matt tells us contributions are down for the same period in past years.
3. Some of us are feeling like they don't have to give anything this year.
4. Others of us are sharing the wealth and giving Matt a little something
to help out.
5. What is wrong with this picture?
Come on guys and gals, before the end of the month you're going to have to
make up your mind. Your contribution does matter. How about doing it right
now? People are standing by to try to steal your credit card number! (Just
kidding, the line is secure.) http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or if you no longer have good credit, send a check to:
Matt Dralle
c/o Matronics
P.O. Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
Wonder if anyone noticed I miss spelled "ya'll" in my last
post?..........maybe I'll try "y'uns" next time!............ AL
(Hope all that let me know they wanted "The rest of the story" got it today.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Oil Filter Inspection Service |
Listers,
Are there services available where you can send someone your old oil filter
and they will send you back a report of what they found? Do you use them
for every oil change? or every other change? How much do they cost? Is
this worthwhile to do?
I prefer to not do the inspection myself. I don't know what to look for and
even if I did, I don't know what it means. I assume that there are services
available but I haven't run across any of them. I'd like to hear back from
some satisfied customers. Thanks.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 Indianapolis (103 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Oil Filter Inspection Service |
There are mail order services available and almost all diesel repair
shops/dealers like Cummins etc have that service available.
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy J.
Pflanzer
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2000 8:25 AM
Subject: RV-List: Oil Filter Inspection Service
Listers,
Are there services available where you can send someone your old oil filter
and they will send you back a report of what they found? Do you use them
for every oil change? or every other change? How much do they cost? Is
this worthwhile to do?
I prefer to not do the inspection myself. I don't know what to look for and
even if I did, I don't know what it means. I assume that there are services
available but I haven't run across any of them. I'd like to hear back from
some satisfied customers. Thanks.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 Indianapolis (103 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Filter Inspection Service |
Randy,
I think you understand the issues correctly. You could open the filter
yourself but official tools are costly and hacksaws etc introduce too many
foreign stuffs. It is probably advisable to take the filter to a reputable
shop and have them cut it.
Oil analysis is different. The shop might offer to send it or give you a
name. Some airport shops (shoppes?) have mailers. They will give you an
analysis report and guidelines for reading it. Get the mailer bottle before
you drain the warm oil as they want their sample from ... well, they will
tell you.
hal
RV6a N7HK
waiting for pitot static check and faa man
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy J. Pflanzer <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2000 8:24 AM
Subject: RV-List: Oil Filter Inspection Service
>
> Listers,
>
> Are there services available where you can send someone your old oil
filter
> and they will send you back a report of what they found? Do you use them
> for every oil change? or every other change? How much do they cost? Is
> this worthwhile to do?
>
> I prefer to not do the inspection myself. I don't know what to look for
and
> even if I did, I don't know what it means. I assume that there are
services
> available but I haven't run across any of them. I'd like to hear back
from
> some satisfied customers. Thanks.
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G
> RV-6 Indianapolis (103 hours)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | The First Dent...Oh @#$% |
Well, it finally happened. I got the first dent in the RV-6 Sunday. I'd always
heard about bird strikes, but had never experienced one until now.
I had been out flying with Gary Sobek (RV-6) in the morning doing a little formation
practice. We went our separate directions and I decided to go out to Camarillo
to refuel and get a little lunch. I was about 5 miles out at 150mph and
2000' and a small flock of sparrows or something like that (there wasn't much
left to identify) darted off right to left in front of me, but it was the stragglier
that got me. (He should have been flying a little closer to his wingman).
I saw him at the last second and heard a thud on the right side of the
airplane. A quick look and I didn't see any damage along the wing. Maybe he
hit the wheel pant or gear leg. I hope, I hope, I hope.....
After a careful landing and taxi to the fuel pump, I shut down and got out to look
for damage. Damn.....He hit the leading edge in between the 2nd and 3rd tank
ribs, resulting in a 2" circular impact crator. Plenty of blood and guts
on the wing and stab. What a mess.
After a dejected lunch, I flew home to have a couple of beers (ok, maybe a more
than a couple). I remember seeing a RV-6 at Copperstate after hitting a bird
on his way there. I remember thinking what a bitch it would be to fix it. Now
I get to find out. I think I'll have to pull the tank and cut an access hole
in the back baffle so I can get a stick in there to try to pop it back into
some kind of contour. It's creased pretty well, so I may have to hammer on it
a little to get back in shape.
What a BUMMER!
Sorry, but I just had to share. I guess this makes up or all those "Your gonna
love this airplane" posts ;-)
Laird (Dented RV-6)
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil Filter Inspection Service |
11/15/2000 12:25:23 PM
How about a real (local) A&P mechanic. Somewhere on your airfield is a A&P
and he can eyeball the contents of your oil filter and give a
prognostication on the engines health. BTW, he can be a contact when you
need your plugs cleaned(you pull 'em, him clean 'em) , a emergency quart of
oil, or you engine timed....... A friendly A&P on your field that knows you
can be beneficial......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Half Way There........ |
Vel eyes knot B a nown wats U B tinken butt ifen U tinks yooose spel phuny
weight til U C vot I tink. get vit it youse guys & gals (P.C. 2) it's a
bee'n vel wort y'r time & a few bucks B ago'n a long vay here. KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2000 8:12 AM
Subject: RV-List: Half Way There........
>
> Wonder if anyone noticed I miss spelled "ya'll" in my last
> post?..........maybe I'll try "y'uns" next time!............ AL
>
> (Hope all that let me know they wanted "The rest of the story" got it
today.)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Filter Inspection Service |
>>Randy,
>
>I think you understand the issues correctly. You could open the filter
>yourself but official tools are costly and hacksaws etc introduce too many
>foreign stuffs. It is probably advisable to take the filter to a reputable
>shop and have them cut it.
>
Or, just buy a filter can cutter. I bought one from Sky Ranch. VERY nice
unit complete with can holder that you clamp to a table. Opens the can up
like a can of soup...cleanly. Cut the filter media top and bottom with a
sharp knife and pull it away from the center core. Be careful here,
slippery oil+sharp knife=cut self with knife type of scenario. I usually
drain the filter for a day before I cut it open which gets most of the oil
out of it. I then lay the media out on a clean table and go over it
visually and with a magnet. I've found some small flecks of chrome plating
(from the cylinders) and a couple of tiny slivers of non-ferrous metal.
That's about it. I plan to remove the present filter in 15 hours or so to
inspect it for any signs that additional metal is being generated. Yikes.
Haven't started oil analysis yet, but plan to. Local RUST tractor company
does analysis for some local fliers. I wonder how they compare to companies
that do aviation oil as the main part of their analysis business?
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
147 hours. Tires and brakes this weekend.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The First Dent...Oh @#$% |
>>Well, it finally happened. I got the first dent in the RV-6 Sunday. I'd
>>always heard about bird strikes, but had never experienced one until now.
>
(Horrid details snipped)
YIKES! Major bummer, Laird. I got mighty close to some small flocks of
migratory birds over the past couple of weeks. Silly buggers are heading
south to warm up. Imagine that. Hard to see them until they're RIGHT THERE
RIGHT NOW. Then, it might be too late. At least it didn't get your canopy.
THAT could have had an entirely different outcome.
As an aternative to pulling the tank and cutting into the baffle, you could
maybe use progressive layers of glass and Superfil to build up and blend the
dent, then repaint. Maybe? Dunno, just brainstorming to try and lessen the
pain factor.
Sorry bud. Hang in there. You'll get it fixed. I expect to see a bird "kill
flag" on your airplane next time I see it. ;)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Filter Inspection Service |
Brian,
Tell us where you learn what to look for, both type and quantity.
hal
> I then lay the media out on a clean table and go over it
> visually and with a magnet. I've found some small flecks of chrome
plating
> (from the cylinders) and a couple of tiny slivers of non-ferrous metal.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: The First Dent...Oh @#$% |
"Owens, Laird" wrote:
> I think I'll have to pull the tank and cut an access hole in the back
> baffle so I can get a stick in there to try to pop it back into some
> kind of contour. It's creased pretty well, so I may have to hammer
> on it a little to get back in shape.
Maybe you could pull the dent out without needing to cut the access
hole? Drill a small hole in the middle of the dent. Bend a piece of
steel rod to a right angle, maybe an inch from the end. Put the rod
through the hole and pull. Given some luck, the dent will pop out.
Remove the rod and fill the hole with a solid pop-rivet plus a little
Proseal. Add some bondo and paint.
HTH,
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Instrument mounting hardware? |
Be sure to order extra and pickle the extra screws if you go with something
fancy. Months/years down the pike you won't be able to find the special
screws and your panel starts to look cheesy because the mix/match of
screws. I went with Stainless allens ....looks real sharp.....don't think
I'll be able to find them 5 years from now....at least not
easily......solution--stashed some away for future use......this is
definitely a nit but worth it later
"Mike Wills" (at)matronics.com on 11/14/2000 07:48:51
PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Instrument mounting hardware?
> >Hi All,
> >
> >Well, I'm finally about to start work on my panel and I'm wondering
> >about the correct hardware. >--
> >Regards,
> >Ken Balch
>
>Ken,
> Go to local bolt and fitting
>store with your shopping list, and hand over cash. Mount 'em up and go
fly.
>:)
>
>Brian Denk
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
When you decide what you want/need check out McMaster-Carr. Just about
every possible type of fastener you can imagine and the prices are
reasonable. I used stainless button head allen screws for mine.
http://www.mcmaster.com/
Mike Wills
RV4 engine stuff (Mazda 13B)
willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The First Dent...Oh @#$% |
Laird, As my daughter used to say "that's a big owee". On the positive side, it
didn't hit the canopy or spinner. If there is an actual crease, you are probably
better off just filling it with a microballon epoxy mix and covering with
a couple plys of glass.
See you next time you wander up this way.
Garry, "6" Finishing
"Owens, Laird" wrote:
>
> Well, it finally happened. I got the first dent in the RV-6 Sunday. I'd always
heard about bird strikes, but had never experienced one until now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | ELT required for first flight? |
I have an old EBC 102 which is certified C91 I believe - now required is
C91a isn't it? Is one required at all on first flight if no crew members
are allowed (other than pilot)?
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | upper seat back brace adjustment |
Seems that I remember an RV-6 builder saying that he never used the 2
forward positions of the upper seat back brace and just let the seatback
rest all the way against the bulkhead. I also noticed a lot of scratches in
the paint in this area on various RV's where the hinged upper seatback brace
contacts the top of the bulkhead. Has anyone just permanently fixed the
upper seatback? (I checked the archives but came up empty.)
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
fuselage bulkheads
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Filter Inspection Service |
>>Brian,
>
>Tell us where you learn what to look for, both type and quantity.
>
Hal,
I read the "Skyranch Engineering Manual" by John Schwaner. Has some
excellent information. John points out how to test the metal flecks you may
find in the media by using chemical solutions. I haven't found enough of
anything at any given oil change to warrant going to such measures and hope
I don't have to. The Lycoming web site has reposts of the Lycoming Flyer
that addresses quantity of metals found and how to proceed. Basically, if
it's just a few tiny pieces, take note of them and look for a trend on the
next inspection. If the particles have increased drastically, it's time to
find out just what the stuff is. If a magnet picks them up, perhaps we're
talkin' camshaft lobes. If it's aluminum, something might be amiss in the
accessory section, main bearing journals, etc. I'm no expert on this stuff
by any means, but Schwaner's book was an excellent start for me to just get
a handle on what I was trying to achieve by pulling the innards out of the
oil filter at each oil change. It will not show all signs of engine
distress, as only an oil analysis will find microscopic metallic elements
and trend them for you over the long haul.
Brian Denk
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: High altitude performance |
In a message dated 11/15/2000 3:25:33 AM Central Standard Time,
meads1(at)theramp.net writes:
<< Does anyone know what a turbo-normalized 6/8 is capable of in the flight
levels? Up in the high teens say, I'm wondering why you don't see turbo
RV's out there.
>>
Weight of a turbo engine. Have you looked at the size difference also. I
am looking at a turbo normalized 3 rotor mazda engine, but their not ready to
sell them yet so I am just waiting to see what happens. But that engine with
cooling system and reduction gear will be about 75 lbs lighter then a IO-540
and the engine should run about 350-400 hp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | The First Dent...Oh @#$% |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: The First Dent...Oh @#$%
Thread-Index: AcBPQuWRACCLwIfHQk6E0AfFUkCKUAAAC38A
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Laird,
Congrats...you just scored your first official "kill".
$%#@ happens...at least it's not going to cost you a bunch.
A local -6 driver backed into his wing with his pickup...the only funny
part about it was his dent "patch"--some very strong Budweiser alloy
attached with double-sided tape over the dent, complete with glued on
rivets.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 53 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: upper seat back brace adjustment |
11/15/2000 03:51:33 PM
This depends on the seat material you use/choose to some extent. If it is
squishie or hard means that the upper adjustment you refer to is the only
"final" adjustment.....
"C J Heitman" (at)matronics.com on 11/15/2000 03:14:34 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: upper seat back brace adjustment
Seems that I remember an RV-6 builder saying that he never used the 2
forward positions of the upper seat back brace and just let the seatback
rest all the way against the bulkhead. I also noticed a lot of scratches in
the paint in this area on various RV's where the hinged upper seatback
brace
contacts the top of the bulkhead. Has anyone just permanently fixed the
upper seatback? (I checked the archives but came up empty.)
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
fuselage bulkheads
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | upper seat back brace adjustment |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: upper seat back brace adjustment
Thread-Index: AcBPR1OtkQz7W9P+Q+eq+s+1LEvtLAAAB3ng
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
I left the braces out on mine...I used some 1" wide x seat back width X
1/8" strips of UHMW plastic riveted onto the bulkhead, where the seat
back rib contacts it.
Thanks!
Bob Japundza
RealMed Corporation
www.realmed.com
-----Original Message-----
From: C J Heitman [mailto:cjh(at)execpc.com]
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2000 3:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: upper seat back brace adjustment
Seems that I remember an RV-6 builder saying that he never used the 2
forward positions of the upper seat back brace and just let the seatback
rest all the way against the bulkhead. I also noticed a lot of scratches
in
the paint in this area on various RV's where the hinged upper seatback
brace
contacts the top of the bulkhead. Has anyone just permanently fixed the
upper seatback? (I checked the archives but came up empty.)
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
fuselage bulkheads
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Exxon Flyin' Tiger heritage |
In a message dated 11/15/00 1:59:57 AM Central Standard Time,
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<< Hate to chime in and share my ignorance but I believe most listers would be
very interested to know exactly what the "tiger" really is. I saw it at Sun
N fun a year and a half ago and what it looked like to me was a team rocket!
I believe it was built by check six mark so if he is still on the list
perhaps he could enlighten us??
D Walsh >>
Hi all:
Rest easy -- the Tiger has substantial RV heritage. Van can be proud! Yep, it
was built in my shop. It was the last ship built here before initializing the
Team Rocket project. It wouldn't actually be that hard to duplicate the ship
-- it's the sponsors that are hard to get!
Here's a run-down of some of the parts used:
wings: straight RV-4 (small tanks) with sheared tips. 24' span. Since the
ship uses a Rocket spar bulkhead, we had to install a 4" spacer between the
spar ends, and make up new splice plates.
Fuselage: Rocket from the longerons down; -4 turtledeck; one-off boot cowl.
The boot cowl was a real challenge. The cowl is modified to accept a parallel
valve 540 with an angle valve induction system and provide the extra cooling
needed.
tail feathers: -8 vertical surfaces; -4 horizontal sfcs (modified
counterweights); manual trim.
Canopy: RV-3 plexi using a Pitts-type mechanism. Another one-off...
Bruce sits in the back seat (9' from the prop), and the rudder pedals are
just fwd of the main spar. I haven't had a chance to hop the thing, but Bruce
claims it's very comfortable. LOTS of luggage space in the 'front seat' area,
which also houses an aux tank for the long distance stuff (remember the small
wing tanks). This area was intended to hold the nitrous tanks, along with the
luggage area. If I recall correct, it was capable of holding 9 ea 20 lb
cylinders?
The Mattituck engine utilizes an amazing compression ratio (around 12:1!) and
puts out more HP than you would believe. That plane gives very high cruise
speeds on very low MP/RPM combos. We have discussed this, and it might be
that the canopy placement is optimal for low drag, but the cooling drag is
higher. Go figure! The original 6 pipe exhaust gave a very individualized
note, but I understand that a 6 into 1 is now used.
It as fun to build a ship like this, and it good to see Bruce & his crew
succeed with it. That nitrous was concerning all involved, because it worked
so good on the ground, but didn't deliver such consistency in the air. The
current fire-breathing motor does a fine job without being 'on the bottle'.
This is sort of a condensed version, but you get the picture.
Check Six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: High altitude performance |
>
>
> << Does anyone know what a turbo-normalized 6/8 is capable of in the flight
> levels? Up in the high teens say, I'm wondering why you don't see turbo
> RV's out there.
I often fly in the high teens to close to 20,000' DA in my non-turbo 0-360
powered (wood prop) RV-6A. With two on board at 20,000 climb rate drops to about
4-500 fpm. Vmax is at about 205-210 on the GPS. Of course manueverability does
feel somewhat sluggish.
I once considered a turbo 0-320 off an Apache but rejected it because it looked
like it would have been difficult, if not impossible to fit under the cowl. When
the guy lost interest in selling it, I lost interest in measuring. Maybe with a
few reasonable adjustments, it could be made to fit.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David L. White" <dwhite(at)netwalk.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Half Way There........ |
Dropped a check in the mail this morning to Matt.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Half Way There........ |
Are we all supposed to post when we make a contribution?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David L. White
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2000 2:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Half Way There........
Dropped a check in the mail this morning to Matt.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt" <meads1(at)theramp.net> |
| Subject: | High altitude performance |
Does anyone know what a turbo-normalized 6/8 is capable of in the flight
levels? Up in the high teens say, I'm wondering why you don't see turbo
RV's out there.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The First Dent...Oh @#$% |
Try a piece of dry ice or liquid nitrogen applied to the dent. It will not be
perfect, but it may pop out. I have been told that people have had some success
with the small dents made by large pieces of hail.
Brian Denk wrote:
>
> >>Well, it finally happened. I got the first dent in the RV-6 Sunday. I'd
> >>always heard about bird strikes, but had never experienced one until now.
> >
> (Horrid details snipped)
>
> YIKES! Major bummer, Laird. I got mighty close to some small flocks of
> migratory birds over the past couple of weeks. Silly buggers are heading
> south to warm up. Imagine that. Hard to see them until they're RIGHT THERE
> RIGHT NOW. Then, it might be too late. At least it didn't get your canopy.
> THAT could have had an entirely different outcome.
>
> As an aternative to pulling the tank and cutting into the baffle, you could
> maybe use progressive layers of glass and Superfil to build up and blend the
> dent, then repaint. Maybe? Dunno, just brainstorming to try and lessen the
> pain factor.
>
> Sorry bud. Hang in there. You'll get it fixed. I expect to see a bird "kill
> flag" on your airplane next time I see it. ;)
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bert murillo <bertrv6(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Spar splice plates, fitting wings |
Hello All:
Hope this message will help some one; Yesterday
a friend, also builder,was helping me, to install
the wings, first try, on my QBrv6A...
We installed the left wing, using hardware store
bolts, which we smooth the threads on the sander,
for easier insertion) including the spar splice plates
W620, there are four...Everything went well, bolts
were installed, including nuts, loose until the R/
wing was installed, we proceeded to put the bolts
on the right side, Right wing...we could not.. we
tried, even with the alligment tool (a must)..
the bolts would not go in, in looking thru the holes
it seems everything was allingned,,,so, we remove
all the bolts, and plates, and try to figure why
we could not put the bolts on the right wing...
in looking more carefully at the splice plates,
yes....they did not matched at all, they look same
but, they are not exactly the same... after 4 hrs
of hard work and swet.. we find out that there is
only one combination, in which the plates will match
the holes on the spar, and on the bulk head...
After we found out the right combination, everything
went with no trouble:
Why in heavens name, does'not Van's at least,
mark the damm things, so one can save all this
useless extra work? All they have to do is mark
them, such as top front, top back etc...
Bert
Rv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gunn <ggunn(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | wing spar rivets |
Folks...
I've completed my RV-6 wing spars and ended up with about 6 rivets that
have good
sized smileys, the shop head's are ok.
My question is, will these rivets pass the scrutiny of the inspector?
Hate the
thought of attempting
to drill out those big rivets.
Thanks,
Gary Gunn
RV-6
Phoenix, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: wing spar rivets |
If I were you I would leave them alone. Drilling them out will probably only
enlarge the hole. You will likely cause more damage drilling them out than if
you just leave them alone.
John Danielson
Finish kit, engine installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: High altitude performance |
Andy
Its not April Fools Day yet is it?
Tom
RV3
Builder's Bookstore wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > << Does anyone know what a turbo-normalized 6/8 is capable of in the flight
> > levels? Up in the high teens say, I'm wondering why you don't see turbo
> > RV's out there.
>
> I often fly in the high teens to close to 20,000' DA in my non-turbo 0-360
> powered (wood prop) RV-6A. With two on board at 20,000 climb rate drops to about
> 4-500 fpm. Vmax is at about 205-210 on the GPS. Of course manueverability does
> feel somewhat sluggish.
>
> I once considered a turbo 0-320 off an Apache but rejected it because it looked
> like it would have been difficult, if not impossible to fit under the cowl. When
> the guy lost interest in selling it, I lost interest in measuring. Maybe with
a
> few reasonable adjustments, it could be made to fit.
>
> Andy
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: High altitude performance |
>
> Does anyone know what a turbo-normalized 6/8 is capable of in the flight
> levels? Up in the high teens say, I'm wondering why you don't see turbo
> RV's out there.
If you can maintain power, the rule of thumb is you gain 2% True airspeed
per thousand feet of altitude.
If you had a Constant speed prop and want to run 24" (75% power) manifold
pressure, you will typically runout of throttle at around 5 or 6000 feet.
If your airplane goes say 165 kts at that 5000 ft then at 15,000 you might
go 165 x 120% or 198 kts. Sounds pretty wild huh???? Well the turbo is
going to take some power to run, and as you get higher the 2% per thousand
might be a little optimistic, but I bet it would be over 200 kts TAS.
I have flown some Travelairs and Twin Commanches with Ray-Jays, but I don't
remember how much boost they could give. If the wastegates are worn, I know
they won't go that high, but I don't know what they could do if they were in
top shape. They still may not be able to maintain power to 15,000 ft. If
you could find the perf #s on a Travel air with and without the turbos, you
could make a pretty good comparison, because the non-turbos are about the
same speed as an RV.
Before you get all fired up to turbo-charge your RV, go fly a
non-pressurized airplane around at 20,000 feet for a couple hours and then
see how you feel afterwards. It is freezing cold up there. If you spend
lots of time up high, You feel like you have a hangover when you land, and
if you kink a hose on your oxygen system you might fall asleep before you
figure it out. It is a pretty hostile environment. I don't like flying
much above 15K in a non-pressurized airplane.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com\dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spar splice plates, fitting wings |
Mine are marked with, what looks like, an electric engraving showing the
serial number and location for the splice plates.
Did you prime yours and cover up the marks? I etched/alodined mine then
marked it with a permanent marker before priming.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
>
> Why in heavens name, does'not Van's at least,
> mark the damm things, so one can save all this
> useless extra work? All they have to do is mark
> them, such as top front, top back etc...
>
> Bert
> Rv6a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JIM TAMBS <jntambs(at)voyager.net> |
| Subject: | seats, torque wrench |
Hi list,
I recently started construction of the empennage for an 8 qb. In my
reading I came across an ad for kevlar seats made by Jon Johanson, I
would like to know if any of you have tried them and are they worth the
money (shipping is very high).
Also I have not been able to find a torque wrench that measures in inch
pounds, any suggestions as to where to find one?
Thanks,
Jim Tambs
RV 8 QB empennage!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The First Dent...Oh @#$% |
From: "Owens, Laird" <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Well, it finally happened. I got the first dent in the RV-6 Sunday.
I'd always heard about bird strikes, but had never experienced one
until now.
I had been out flying with Gary Sobek int the morning doing a little
formation practice. We went our separate directions and I decided to
go out to Camarillo to refuel and get a little lunch. I was about 5
miles out at 150mph and 2000' and a small flock of sparrows or
something like that (there wasn't much left to identify) darted off
right to left in front of me, but it was the stragglier that got me.
(He should have been flying a little closer to his wingman). I saw him
at the last second and heard a thud on the right side of the airplane.
A quick look and I didn't see any damage along the wing. Maybe he hit
the wheel pant or gear leg. I hope, I hope, I hope.....
After a careful landing and taxi to the fuel pump, I shut down and got
out to look for damage. Damn.....He hit the leading edge in between
the 2nd and 3rd tank ribs, resulting in a 2" circular impact crator.
Plenty of blood and guts on the wing and stab. What a mess.
After a dejected lunch, I flew home to have a couple of beers (ok,
maybe a more than a couple). I remember seeing a RV-6 at Copperstate
after hitting a bird on his way there. I remember thinking what a
bitch it would be to fix it. Now I get to find out. I think I'll have
to pull the tank and cut an access hole in the back baffle so I can get
a stick in there to try to pop it back into some kind of contour. It's
creased pretty well, so I may have to hammer on it a little to get back
in shape.
What a BUMMER!
Laird (still Sandbag, but only because Birdstrike was already taken)
Sandbag:
Sorry to hear about your bird (RV-6). Sure glad the bird that hit you
was not a Ford Thunderbird as they make a bigger mess. One bird
(Seagull) went between Paul "Rosie" Rosales and me last week when we
were flying with Walt "Red Dog" Hastings. I do not know how I missed
it.
If you need any help with the repair, let me know. I helped take the
tanks apart on a flying RV-4 about 6 years ago to fix a leak. I think
I still have an extra doubler and cover plate in my tool box from that
project. If it is not an extra one, then it was the tooling jig that I
used for the eight that were made. I also have a pneumatic calking gun
for the ProSeal cartridges.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
735+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: seats, torque wrench |
In a message dated 11/15/00 8:41:46 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jntambs(at)voyager.net writes:
> Also I have not been able to find a torque wrench that measures in inch
> pounds, any suggestions as to where to find one?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Tambs
> RV 8 QB empennage!
Harbor Freight sells a small one (1/4" drive) that reads in inch pounds. It
is perfect for most of the things you'll need to tighten, since AN fasteners
need a surprisingly small amount of torque.
On the other hand, if you already have a torque wrench calibrated in
foot-pounds, just divide your desired reading (given in inch-pounds) by 12,
and volia... foot pounds. I'm sure you know that, but there's someone
somewhere on the list who didn't....
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Houg <thoug(at)ATTGLOBAL.NET> |
| Subject: | Elevator trim - again! |
I've been following the recent elevator trim threads with interest. I
haven't yet commited to electric or manual trim for my -9A, but the
simplicity and precision of the manual trim is apealing. However, I also
like the idea of being able to control the trim from the stick and having a
panel indicator that shows the position of the trim tab.
Does the elctric trim kit supplied by Vans include the rocker switch and
LED position indicator?
What do people with manual trims use to identify the nuetral trim position
prior to take off? Has anyone rigged a position indicator to their manual
trim system? How many turns of the trim knob does it take to get full trim
deflection, or when transitioning to climb during a touch and go or aborted
landing?
Thanks in advance,
Todd Houg
Priming the empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT required for first flight? |
Hal,
FAR 91.207 (f) says that you don't have to have one while flight testing.
Dave
kempthornes wrote:
>
> I have an old EBC 102 which is certified C91 I believe - now required is
> C91a isn't it? Is one required at all on first flight if no crew members
> are allowed (other than pilot)?
>
> hal
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David R. Cook Sr." <DAVERCOOK(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: seats, torque wrench |
Sears or Home Depot carries the torque wrench for inch -pounds.
Dave Cook ,RV-6 Wings Columbus Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "JIM TAMBS" <jntambs(at)voyager.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2000 8:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: seats, torque wrench
>
> Hi list,
> I recently started construction of the empennage for an 8 qb. In my
> reading I came across an ad for kevlar seats made by Jon Johanson, I
> would like to know if any of you have tried them and are they worth the
> money (shipping is very high).
>
> Also I have not been able to find a torque wrench that measures in inch
> pounds, any suggestions as to where to find one?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Tambs
> RV 8 QB empennage!
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Time to climb record |
Sorry Tom
Misread the message. I would love to see your airplane when it is done.
Maybe we could interest you in some cross border RV flyin experiances next
summer.
Joe
>
> JOE IM TALKING ABOUT MINE.TIO540S1AD LYC GETTING CLOSE TOM
>
> Thomas M. Whelan
>
> Whelan Farms Airport
> Post Office Box 426
> 249 Hard Hill Road North
> Bethlehem, CT 06751
>
> PH 203-266-5300
> FAX 203-266-5140
> e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
>
> EAA Chapter 1097, President
> RV-8 IO-540 LYC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Read the letters to the editor section of this month's Sport Aviation. They
mention some good points in there about how the "disappearance" of 100LL
should not be a great cause for concern for those who are looking at buying
the types of engines generally used in RV's. If you were running a
turbo-charged engine or some other "high-pressure" machine you may have some
valid concerns. Looks like the EAA will do their best to stay on top of it,
as will AOPA I'm sure.
Bob Moser
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: seats, torque wrench |
to me, avery tools in arlington tx. is an absolute must. you must ask for a
catalogue. bob specializes in tools for rv building. btw, he has 2 different
torque wrenches that measure in inch pounds. try www.averytools.com
bob in arkansas doin wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Welch" <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: seats, torque wrench |
Don't know about the seats but I bought my inch-pound torque wrench
from Sears.
Vince Welch
RV-8A Wings
Roaming Shores, Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "JIM TAMBS" <jntambs(at)voyager.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2000 8:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: seats, torque wrench
>
> Hi list,
> I recently started construction of the empennage for an 8 qb. In
my
> reading I came across an ad for kevlar seats made by Jon Johanson,
I
> would like to know if any of you have tried them and are they worth
the
> money (shipping is very high).
>
> Also I have not been able to find a torque wrench that measures in
inch
> pounds, any suggestions as to where to find one?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Tambs
> RV 8 QB empennage!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Slick Mag Hookup |
What is the nut size and thread pitch necessary to hook the P-lead to the mag
on a Slick mag? (This mag has a threaded post for the P-lead). I can get an
8-32 nut to start threading, but then it stops, seemingly wanting a different
pitch. Do I need a nut with another thread pitch, or have I missed something
else?
Also, if I do need a nut with a different thread pitch, where do I find 'em?
I've looked through all my catalogs, and can't find #8 nuts with anything
else but 32 pitch..
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: upper seat back brace adjustment |
In a message dated 11/15/00 12:19:08 PM Pacific Standard Time, cjh(at)execpc.com
writes:
<< I remember an RV-6 builder saying that he never used the 2
forward positions of the upper seat back brace and just let the seatback
rest all the way against the bulkhead. I also noticed a lot of scratches in
the paint in this area on various RV's where the hinged upper seatback brace
contacts the top of the bulkhead. Has anyone just permanently fixed the
upper seatback? >>
If you are taller than average you will never use these positions. Count me
among those that never use the flip-up gizmo. I leave both seats in their
most aft position, top and bottom. My most significant copilot (5'-4" and
seriously cute) prefers this more reclined position also, although she has a
booster under the seat bottom (DJ seats) to raise her up for good visibility.
She doesn't reach the rudder pedals, although she could if the seat bottom
was moved to it's most forward position. The top of the seat back just isn't
a factor IMO. If I were to build again I would just leave the flip-up off.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Kunkel <rvator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The First Dent...Oh @#$% |
Hi Laird,
There are mobile services that go around & take small dents out of cars w/out filling,
drilling, etc. Saw one working one time at a Mercedes dealership & can't
remember all the details, but was impressed with their finesse. You might try
the yellow pages &/or call a couple of the exotic car dealerships & see who
they recommend.
Took a hawk strike north of Dallas one time on the forward pylon of a CH-46. Bird
actually went partially through a very substantial piece of aluminum. Glad
you didn't catch a 3 - 4 lb. seagull!!!
Blue Skies!
"Owens, Laird" wrote:
>
> Well, it finally happened. I got the first dent in the RV-6 Sunday. I'd always
heard about bird strikes, but had never experienced one until now.
>
> I had been out flying with Gary Sobek (RV-6) in the morning doing a little formation
practice. We went our separate directions and I decided to go out to
Camarillo to refuel and get a little lunch. I was about 5 miles out at 150mph
and 2000' and a small flock of sparrows or something like that (there wasn't
much left to identify) darted off right to left in front of me, but it was the
stragglier that got me. (He should have been flying a little closer to his wingman).
I saw him at the last second and heard a thud on the right side of the
airplane. A quick look and I didn't see any damage along the wing. Maybe he
hit the wheel pant or gear leg. I hope, I hope, I hope.....
>
> After a careful landing and taxi to the fuel pump, I shut down and got out to
look for damage. Damn.....He hit the leading edge in between the 2nd and 3rd
tank ribs, resulting in a 2" circular impact crator. Plenty of blood and guts
on the wing and stab. What a mess.
>
> After a dejected lunch, I flew home to have a couple of beers (ok, maybe a more
than a couple). I remember seeing a RV-6 at Copperstate after hitting a bird
on his way there. I remember thinking what a bitch it would be to fix it.
Now I get to find out. I think I'll have to pull the tank and cut an access
hole in the back baffle so I can get a stick in there to try to pop it back into
some kind of contour. It's creased pretty well, so I may have to hammer on
it a little to get back in shape.
>
> What a BUMMER!
>
> Sorry, but I just had to share. I guess this makes up or all those "Your gonna
love this airplane" posts ;-)
>
> Laird (Dented RV-6)
> SoCal
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Half Way There........ |
In a message dated 11/15/00 3:02:27 PM Pacific Standard Time,
gtanner(at)bendcable.com writes:
<< Are we all supposed to post when we make a contribution? >>
Don't know, but I have mailed my check.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy (almost finished, finally).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Slick Mag Hookup |
In a message dated 11/15/00 7:54:37 PM Pacific Standard Time,
KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< What is the nut size and thread pitch necessary to hook the P-lead to the
mag
on a Slick mag? (This mag has a threaded post for the P-lead). I can get
an
8-32 nut to start threading, but then it stops, seemingly wanting a
different
pitch. Do I need a nut with another thread pitch, or have I missed
something
else? >>
Make sure you aren't cross threading it. It is 8-32 and I recall that I had
a similar experience (and I've been screwing most of my life) with this nut.
Is it the original nut supplied with the magneto (brass). If so, just keep
playing with it and you will get satisfaction eventually.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | N94KB 75 Hour Report |
Here is a list of some problems and corrective actions during the first 75
hours of flight time (first flight 22 July 2000). This is an RV-6A slider
with gyro panel, RMI Monitor, GX-60 GPS/Com and NavAid AP-1. Powered by 160
HP O-320 with Paul Irlbeck wood prop
Heavy left wing. - I tried to correct it by bending the aileron trailing
edge but this wasn't enough so a tab was added under the aileron. Later I
removed the tab and made the adjustable electric tab slightly larger. Next,
I found that the full up flap position needed correcting on left wing. I
corrected this and removed the added trim augmentation. The inner aileron
hinge had to be moved to align with new flap position.
Brakes - I had some trouble filling the system (from the calipers) until a
learned it was necessary to pull pack on the tops of the pedals. My master
cylinder springs were not strong enough to fully retract the pedals. I got
the brakes hot during taxi testing to condition the pads. One day, after
about the 3rd flight, the right brake lost fluid as I set them prior to
engine start. The Caliper O ring had failed because of excess heat. The
brakes had been dragging. I built some spacers to fit under the master
cylinder springs and have not had any problems since.
Leaking fuel tank inspection covers - I sealed my tank covers with the cork
gaskets covered with fuel lube and tested the tanks with air pressure prior
to using. Before installing the tanks I replaced the Phillips screws with
hex head machine screws. I had some leaks around the access covers and after
several rounds of tightening these screws (now accessible without removing
the tanks), I have stopped the seepage. At first I was reluctant to tighten
too much because I didn't want to damage the gasket.
Tire Wear - The outside treads of the main gear tires are warring. I
reversed the left tire at 50 hours and will reverse the right tire soon. I
may get only 150 hours out of these tires.
Sealing Cockpit - As the temperature started to cool here in Minnesota, I
decided it was time to start sealing the cockpit. I added boots to both the
aileron and flap control rods where they exit the fuse. I also sealed the
corrugated areas of the rear bulkhead to prevent air from entering from the
tail cone. I still get some cool air on the back of the head and plan to put
some weather stripping under the rear skirts.
NavAid - Although the AP-1 does an excellent job of tracking when coupled
to the GX-60, there was some stick shaking especially when there wasn't much
loading on the ailerons (Tracking is much enhanced if the CDI resolution is
set to 0.3 NM in the GX-60). NavAid said this is common in RV's with light
control forces and offered to modify the servo with a resistor if I sent it
in. They sent me the 5 ohm 3 watt resistor, which I added inside the servo
in series with the motor. This solved the shaking problem and now the unit
works great at all air speeds.
Prop Balance - With limited experience with in a RV I didn't know what kind
of vibrations to expect but did notice that when I throttled back to 1500 RPM
vibration was noticeable. At 70 hours I had the prop dynamically balanced by
Doug Shears at Harmony Aviation. The pre-balance reading was 0.57 IPS and
after balance it is 0.025 IPS. Doug said the prebalance conditions were bad
but not severe. The aircraft is much smoother now at all RPM. This was well
worth the expense. Doug has balanced about 3000 props and travels within a
10 state area around Minnesota. Get several airplane together as he gives
discounts for groups.(Doug Shears @ 800-SPIN BAlance)
GX-60 software -After getting some really dark sun glasses, I found it
difficult to see the GX-60 screen. I visited the II Morrow people at Oshkosh
about this problem and the fact that I couldn't set the units to MPH. They
said all these issues were addressed in Software Release 3.2. I ask for the
update since the unit was still under warranty. They don't provide software
updates under warranty. I would have to buy it. Some shops wanted $150, but
I found a shop that supplied it a no charge even though I bought the unit by
mail order. The update was a disappointment; the MPH only changed one nav
screen while the map display stayed in knots. The adjustable brightness
allowed manual settings to override the photocell light sense, it didn't
increase the brightness. An additional "enhancement" that starts a turn
prior to passing a waypoint only generates a curve on the screen prior to
waypoint arrival but doesn't change the CDI until the waypoint is reached. I
am happy with the unit but there is room for improvement.
Ken
Burnsville, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The First Dent...Oh @#$% |
Owen,
I heard of a tip that "may" save you pulling the tank. If the dent is a
rolled type dent and fairly smooth you might try putting some dry ice into
the tank and holding a rag over the filler hole to seal the tank off. Make
sure ther fuel tank selector is off too. The rag will serve as a 'variable
'plug. What happens is this. As the dry ice evaporates it creates pressure
inside the tank and will rollout the dent ( providing the dent isn't too
deep or sharp). If the pressure gets too high you won't be able to hold the
pressure with the rag. When the dry ice has entirly evaporated the fuel
inside the tank will not be affected and you will be ready to go flying. I
have heard of many motorcycle tanks being repaired this way. You have
nothing to lose - if it doesn't work you revert to your original plane and
take the tank apart. If it does work, so much the better. I have seen a dent
come out and the paint was 95% intact and there was very little damage
showing.
I hope this helps,
Airplanes should be flying.
Doug Murray RV-6 C-GRPA
Headed for the paint booth
Southern Alberta
Subject: RV-List: The First Dent...Oh @#$%
>
> Well, it finally happened. I got the first dent in the RV-6 Sunday. I'd
always heard about bird strikes, but had never experienced one until now.
>snip>
. I was about 5 miles out at 150mph and 2000' and a small flock of sparrows
or something like that (there wasn't much left to identify) darted off right
to left in front of me, but it was the stragglier that got me. (He should
have been flying a little closer to his wingman). I saw him at the last
second and heard a thud on the right side of the airplane.
>snip>
> After a careful landing and taxi to the fuel pump, I shut down and got out
to look for damage. Damn.....He hit the leading edge in between the 2nd and
3rd tank ribs, resulting in a 2" circular impact crator. Plenty of blood
and guts on the wing and stab. What a mess.
> snip>
I think I'll have to pull the tank and cut an access hole in the back baffle
so I can get a stick in there to try to pop it back into some kind of
contour. It's creased pretty well, so I may have to hammer on it a little
to get back in shape.
>
>
> Laird (Dented RV-6)
> SoCal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Stewart <bruces(at)shoalhaven.net.au> |
Hi Mat,
I'd like to send you something for operating the list etc,
as i'm in Australia the US dollar rate is terrible at the moment!
Do you drink red wine and can i send you some Ozzie stuff?
Bruce Stewart
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | VAN'S fuel gauge |
Hello all
On the rear of Van's fuel gauges are three terminals. They are marked "g",
"s", and "i". I assume the "g" is for ground. As for the other two, which
one goes to 12 volt and which one goes to fuel tank?
Thanks in advance - Tom Benton/RV3B/SE Florida
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Posting your contribution.... |
No you don't have to post when you make your contribution. You can just
send me an e-mail OFF-List if you want to get the rest of the "Who Is Matte
Dralle?" story. If I get enough people on my "private" list that it looks
like it should go to the RV-List I'll just post it there. I decided not to
post List-wide because I thought most people felt it was too political.
Since I received almost no response to the series I figured no one was
reading them anyway and then the political thread started and
well................the rest is history. (See the archives.....) You should
have received your copy of "The rest of the story" by now Greg. In the
mean time I hope those who haven't contributed yet will consider doing so.
Maybe if they see the names of some of those that have, they will be more
inclined to do so. AL prober(at)iwaynet.net
>
>Are we all supposed to post when we make a contribution?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | VAN'S fuel gauge |
My guess was that "s" went to the sender and "i" went to the ignition or
power.
What do I know?
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
-----Original Message-----
On the rear of Van's fuel gauges are three terminals. They are marked "g",
"s", and "i". I assume the "g" is for ground. As for the other two, which
one goes to 12 volt and which one goes to fuel tank?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DJaerosports(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: The First Dent...Oh @#$% |
We Call them Beauty marks. How many to become an Ace ? I hope you did'nt wash
the blood an guts off .
JOKER
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Time to climb record |
JOE SURE WOULD TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: VAN'S fuel gauge |
In a message dated 11/16/00 5:38:44 AM Central Standard Time, TMB1564(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< On the rear of Van's fuel gauges are three terminals. They are marked
"g",
"s", and "i". I assume the "g" is for ground. As for the other two, which
one goes to 12 volt and which one goes to fuel tank? >>
"S" stands for "Sender" from fuel tank. "I" is "Ignition" from power source.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wing spar rivets |
I had a similar problem, but I was shown a technique for drilling out those
rivets that was tedious and gut-wrenching, but worked fine. I am not
qualified to say whether the "smileys" on your rivets are acceptable or not,
that should be left for an expert. If you decide to drill them, I will be
happy to describe how I did mine.
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A
Wings
>From: Gary Gunn <ggunn(at)uswest.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: wing spar rivets
>Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 17:18:51 -0700
>
>
>Folks...
>I've completed my RV-6 wing spars and ended up with about 6 rivets that
>have good
>sized smileys, the shop head's are ok.
>
>My question is, will these rivets pass the scrutiny of the inspector?
>Hate the
>thought of attempting
>to drill out those big rivets.
>
>Thanks,
>Gary Gunn
>RV-6
>Phoenix, AZ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Returning Governor MK 3 |
Matt,
I left a message on your company answering system a couple of days ago.
Perhaps you didn't get it.
Basically, I said that I was unable to use the Governor Mk3 (serial # GM
300288) that I had purchased, due to an interactive problem with my
altitude hold hardware.
It has not been used and is still in the original box complete with the
installation instructions.
I would like to return it and donate the refund to the list operation
fund.
Please contact me with instructions regarding how and were to ship it.
Garry LeGare, (408) 532-6192
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
Hi gang...
If anyone is interested, I have setup a WebCam in my Hanger (read; one side
of a 2 car garage)... I am normally working on the beast after 5:00 PM
(Mountain Time) on weekdays, and could be working anytime over the
weekends... I got a new high speed Internet connection, so I think the
quality should be pretty good. If you take a look, please let em know what
you think off-list!
The URL to the WebCam is: http://vondane.com/rv8a/webcam/index.htm
...and there is more information about the cam there...
Later!
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: (I)O-360 High Pressure Pump |
Hi Michael:
The correct part # is LW 15473 and will work for both applications.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C Sliding Canopy 6A
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael J. Robbins <kitfox(at)gte.net>
Date: Saturday, November 11, 2000 8:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: (I)O-360 High Pressure Pump
>
>I'm converting my O-360-A1A to an IO and am about to order a high pressure
>pump, Lycoming part No. LW15473. AC Spruce has this pump but show two
>different versions with the same Lycoming part No. They show their part
No.
>41234, then a part No. 41272 which they say can be used on A/C who formerly
>used low pressure, which I guess would apply to me. Does anyone know the
>difference between the two? I thought the same pump would fit both the 200
>hp angle valve IO-360 and the 180 hp parallel valve engines.
>
>Mike Robbins
>RV8Q 80591 instrument panel
>Seattle area
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator trim - again! |
After all the routing, re-routing, cutting, re-cutting I had to do while
installing the manual trim cable... If I were to do it again, I'd go
electric. For what it's worth.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Todd Houg [mailto:thoug(at)ATTGLOBAL.NET]
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2000 6:15 PM
To: 'RV-List'
Subject: RV-List: Elevator trim - again!
I've been following the recent elevator trim threads with
interest. I
haven't yet commited to electric or manual trim for my -9A,
but the
simplicity and precision of the manual trim is apealing.
However, I also
like the idea of being able to control the trim from the
stick and having a
panel indicator that shows the position of the trim tab.
Does the elctric trim kit supplied by Vans include the
rocker switch and
LED position indicator?
What do people with manual trims use to identify the nuetral
trim position
prior to take off? Has anyone rigged a position indicator to
their manual
trim system? How many turns of the trim knob does it take to
get full trim
deflection, or when transitioning to climb during a touch
and go or aborted
landing?
Thanks in advance,
Todd Houg
Priming the empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Need suggestions for intercom setup |
I am currently using my apollo radio for an intercom and it is not
satisfactory.
I would like to end up with a system that I can either hear a handheld (ICOM
or YESHU???) or the apollow with a switch. The system should be able to
operate the handheld with a complete airplane power failure!!
Can anyone give me input on which intercom to buy(panel or portable) and
mfg./model. Also how do you handle the switching problem.
Bernie Kerr, 6A 55 hours, SE FLA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | how high is to high for egt |
I setting my RMI egt, I have the probe on the # 3 exhaust port. I can't find
the number's for the minimum and maximum temps anywhere. Does anyone have
these?
Thanks,
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need suggestions for intercom setup |
I don't know about the intercom, but I like my Yaesu Pro II. I flew with it
last week for the first time. I used it exclusivly since the radios in the
rental 172 are crap. Reception and battery life are top-notch. If I had to
find a gripe, it would be the tiny buttons - but they are still acceptable.
-Larry
--- Rv660wm(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> I am currently using my apollo radio for an intercom and it is not
> satisfactory.
>
> I would like to end up with a system that I can either hear a handheld (ICOM
> or YESHU???) or the apollow with a switch. The system should be able to
> operate the handheld with a complete airplane power failure!!
>
> Can anyone give me input on which intercom to buy(panel or portable) and
> mfg./model. Also how do you handle the switching problem.
>
> Bernie Kerr, 6A 55 hours, SE FLA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net> |
Hi all,
I have a Van's voltage regulator which does not have the usual
I,A,S, F contacts.
Just "F".
My question is how do I wire this ?.
It has one terminal marked F, and one wire coming out the back of the
unit...where does it go ?
Austin..
P.S. does Bob's OV crowbar go in this line too ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Rowles <lmrowles(at)netspace.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: seats, torque wrench |
>
>Hi list,
>I recently started construction of the empennage for an 8 qb. In my
>reading I came across an ad for kevlar seats made by Jon Johanson, I
>would like to know if any of you have tried them and are they worth the
>money (shipping is very high).
>
>Also I have not been able to find a torque wrench that measures in inch
>pounds, any suggestions as to where to find one?
>
I purchased a Snapon Torque Wrench and would recomend you try them. (Very
expensive here in Aus)
Les Rowles.
Traralgon Australia.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VAN'S fuel gauge |
Tom:
You should have received a hookup diagram with the gauge. S is for the
signal from the tank. G is ground. I is +12 volts from your instrument
power supply.
George
RV8 N888GK (reserved)
Engine
----- Original Message -----
From: <TMB1564(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2000 5:34 AM
Subject: RV-List: VAN'S fuel gauge
>
> Hello all
>
> On the rear of Van's fuel gauges are three terminals. They are marked
"g",
> "s", and "i". I assume the "g" is for ground. As for the other two,
which
> one goes to 12 volt and which one goes to fuel tank?
>
> Thanks in advance - Tom Benton/RV3B/SE Florida
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: upper seat back brace adjustment |
--- C J Heitman wrote:
> Has anyone just permanently fixed the upper seatback?
Don't do that! Being able to fold the seat back forward opens up the
baggage area a lot for loading/unloading.
If you choose to delete the adjustments (as I did) simply get some
clear plastic corner molding sold at places like Home Depot for
protecting outside corners of wallpapered walls. I've tried to find
rubber bumpers like shopping carts have but cannot...
Anyway, machine screw the molding to the cross brace and let the seats
rest on that. No scratched paint!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)ticnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Filter Inspection Service |
Randy, I have oil analysis each change (50 hrs w filter) by Howard
Fenton, Engine Oil Analysis, 7820 South 70th East Avenue, Tulas OK
74133, 918-492-5844, HFentonTUL(at)aol.com. I prepaid for six
inspections...seems like it was $72, maybe less. He gave me a source
for a filter cutter...easy to use with a vice...instructions included as
to what to do with the filter and what to look for. Howard is quite
knowledgable on oil and engine questions...give him a call.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
-6A flying past 305 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JIM TAMBS <jntambs(at)voyager.net> |
| Subject: | Re: seats, torque wrench |
Kyle,
Thanks for your reply. I realized that you could divide to get inch
pounds but the wrench I have is not real accurate on settings, difficult
to read the handle and is set up in 10 foot pound increments, I couldn't
even get close on scaling down to inch pounds with it.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Need suggestions for intercom setup |
In a message dated 11/16/00 2:02:39 PM Eastern Standard Time, dons6a(at)juno.com
writes:
> I am currently using my apollo radio for an intercom and it is not
> satisfactory.
> Bernie:
>--------------------------------
What do you NOT like about the build in intercom.
I haven't used my yet, but panel space is getting scarce
Don Jordan RV6A Arlington, Tx
__________________________________
My primary reason is that it is very difficult to carry on a conversation
with your crew if you are monitoring the radio on a busy channel such as VFR
flight following. The internal unicom will shut your conversation anytime the
radio is receiving when all you want to do is hear it in the background in
case they call you.
Other reasons are that it is not a good high noise VOX apparently like
necessary in a 6. You almost have to shout to activate the intercom or if you
tried to set the activation level to reasonable conversational level, it will
stay open all the time with the background noise.
Another thing is that you can not monitor the secondary freq and have
intercom at the same time. You have to add a switch and select which you
desire. Now you have the same problem of the primary turning off the
secondary anytime the primary is receiving. This means it is almost useless
if your primary is busy.
It apparently is a good radio, but I would not buy it again because its
advertised goodies are not useful in my situation and it costs more than
other coms.
Bernie Kerr, 6A 55 hours, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
Finally, I got the wing skeletons finished and now it's time to jig
them up. I took a lesson from RV List member, Larry Bowen, and built
some inexpensive jacks to support the center of the wings.
Let me know if you have any questions on how I built these things.
http://mnellis.jnet.net/RV-6_Page/WingSkinning.htm
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Glover" <wirraway(at)bravo.net.au> |
| Subject: | For Sale & Wanted |
Hi Listers,
The following two messages are from builders who
are not on the list. Please contact the
individuals direct. or myself
off-line..............
Wanted:......David Eccleston of Sydney is looking
for a pair of RV-4 wings. He has a fuselage. The
wings from that kit went to
a Harmon Rocket project. His phone no is (02)
4736-4970. (Country code is 61 and delete the 0 in
front of the 2)
For sale: I also heard from Kerry Bourke in
Taree (NSW). Due to health issues he is selling
his RV-8 empennage (70% done) and his
wing kit. He says the wing kit has been
inventoried, but otherwise not worked on. At one
point Kerry was a LAME for
Qantas. Kerry's phone no is 02 6553-9741.
Have a great day,
Ken Glover Hunter Valley Australia RV6A
Foundation member SAAA Chapter 9 Hunter Valley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Glover" <wirraway(at)bravo.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: seats, torque wrench |
<< >reading I came across an ad for kevlar seats
made by Jon Johanson, I
> >would like to know if any of you have tried
them and are they worth the
> >money (shipping is very high).>>>
Hi Les and RV8er's,
The only person that I know that has Jon J's NEW
RV8 kevlar seat, is Julio Tonion, Cairns,
Australia.
He has about 15 hours on the plane, and seems to
be happy with the product, He did get the "low
back" model.....so far, so good. His contact
details are Home phone: 02 4058 1233 e-mail:
tonion(at)iig.com.au
Shipping should be great for Aussies, as they are
made in Adelaide South Aust. No freight in US$
BTW, I had one of Jon J's kevlar seats in my RV4,
and it was top's. My record was 8 hours in one
day, and not one ache or pain. Best seat I've ever
used!!!
Only hope that the seats made by Transport Seating
Technology (Brisbane) for the 6A are as
good...somehow, I don't think they will....Jon's
are in a class of their own!!! I'm working on him
for a seat for the 6/6A/9 series. When he come up
with one, I'll upgrade to "first class"
Cheers,
Ken Glover Hunter Valley Australia RV6A
Foundation member SAAA Chapter 9 Hunter Valley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JIM TAMBS <jntambs(at)voyager.net> |
| Subject: | Re: seats, torque wrench |
Ken,
Thanks for the reply and info.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <Gary.Fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
| Subject: | Need suggestions for intercom setup |
I would like to end up with a system that I can either hear a handheld (ICOM
or YESHU???) or the apollow with a switch.
I have a PS Engineering 6000/S Intercomm/Head for my two radios(KI155A & UPS
SL60). For my handheld I have an ICOM. I elected not to integrate the ICOM
into the mix, however I did install an external antenna for the ICOM putting
an antenna jack in the panel and built a coax to get from the handheld to
the jack. This way if all electrics fail I still have a radio.
Electric Bob recommends an inflight test of the battery(Shut off Alternator)
every now and then on those long VFR cross countries. During this test I
also simulate electric out and try to operate with the equipment I would
have in a partial and total electric failure. I am able to do quite well
navigation wise because in addition to the SL60 (COMM & GPS) I have a
handheld Garmin 195 that I normally run off of aircraft power. I just slip
in the battery pack for the Garmin and pull the handheld out, plug in and
start talking. The ICOM has a jack set with it that I can plug right in to
my headset. This works pretty well for me. Do yourself a favor though and
go through the drill a few times though. It will really be an eye opener
when you realize that sure you brought along the battery pack for the GPS
but.... it's in the baggage compartment. OOPs.
My handheld is okay without the external antenna but with it, it is awesome.
I fly in Class B mostly so I need the extra range the external antenna gives
me if I want to get home.
Hope this helps,
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Tire & brake wear |
Utilizing all of your available resources makes a big difference too. I
constantly see people coming in hot down final, and then hard braking to
make the first exit. I'm not trying to preach, but this made a big
difference for me.
I always come down final at 1.2-1.3Vso (65-70mph in my 6a) with full flaps.
I normally use 65 because that is a real stable speed that results in
minimal, but sufficient flare. I also do some backcountry flying, so this
is a good habit to maintain for short approaches. I then do a *full* flare
and attempt to hold off the wheels until the airplane stalls (hopefully an
inch or two above the surface - but the results vary ), then keep the
nosewheel off until you run out of elevator (dynamic braking), keep full up
elevator and just let it roll out without using brakes. You can usually
make a 2000' turnoff without ever touching the brakes, even with no wind.
If I'm using a controlled or busy field, I'm not going to hold up traffic,
but with a little planning you can still use the same technique - just plan
your touchdown point about 2500' from the turnoff. It's very rare that I
use the brakes much on the runway, and I never use more than light braking
unless I have to.
I don't claim to be more than an average pilot, but flying in this manner
has allowed me to put 400 hours on the airplane and I still have the
original Aero-Trainer tires installed. I rotated them at 250 hours, and
I'll get at 450-500 out of them. I replaced the brake pads at 350 hours,
and they still had a little life left, but the wheels were off for the
conditional inspection anyway so I went ahead and replaced them.
I'm certainly not trying to be boastful, just passing along information.
Touching down at the slowest possible (safe) speed and using the runway and
dynamic braking to your advantage makes a big difference in tire/brake life.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A, 0320-D1a (160hp)
Sensenich 70x78, N427EM, 400hrs.
ebundy(at)micron.net
> Tire Wear--the outside tread of the -6A always wears first because the
> gear is angled inward/downward, during flight and then spreads out as
> the weight of the aircraft is applied. The "early" kits had AeroTrainer
> tires (real cheapos) and then the later kits had Condors--both are light
> plane economy tires and 150 hrs/set, esp. during the intro/training
> period is probably pretty standard--rotate the tires (not just change
> the wheels from side to side) to even the wear and then buy a better
> quality tire, later on.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "edperry64" <edperry64(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Rubber Ducky Antennas |
I posted this last night but have not seen it appear yet...So here we go
again.
I have searched the archives for using Rubber ducky antennas for the ELT.
Has anybody actually done this or have any good or bad input on the idea?
The plan is to mount it on top of the fuselage, behind the rear seat, and
under the canopy of the
RV-8.
Thanks,
Ed Perry
RV8QB 180/CS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rubber Ducky Antennas |
>
> I posted this last night but have not seen it appear yet...So here we
> go
> again.
>
> I have searched the archives for using Rubber ducky antennas for the
> ELT.
> Has anybody actually done this or have any good or bad input on the
> idea?
> The plan is to mount it on top of the fuselage, behind the rear seat,
> and
> under the canopy of the
> RV-8.
>
> Thanks,
> Ed Perry
> RV8QB 180/CS
Ed:
A friend of mine used a "rubber ducky" antenna for his ELT. It was
mounted under the "Dorsal fin" on his RV-4. ELT test using my hand
held says that it is working. It has been over 8 years now that it has
been flying.
I have the ELT antenna on my RV-6 mounted behind the seat under the
canopy.
All of these work but are not the "Best practice" antenna installation
from my ham radio days. If you can find a copy of the ARRL Antenna
hand book, you can see that there is more loss from these installations
but it does work.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
735+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:One suggested setup for intercom |
Help Bob Nuckolls,
After discussing my radio/intercom requirements with several folks, here is
what I think I am going to try. Does anyone see any holes in it?
I bought an SL 40 after reading AvWeb's glowing report on the unit for my RV
6A. The radio works fine, but I am not happy with the intercom setup. I
prefer to use VFR flight watch and this means the active freq is very busy.
It is impossible to talk to your flying partner. I failed to see in the
report that the intercom is killed when the primary is active, but I would
like to do something different so that I can talk on the intercom while
listening in case center calls me.
I have two com antennae mounted one in each fiberglass gear leg fairing and
would like to hook the 2nd one to my handheld (ICOM or YESHU decision yet to
be made).
I believe I can hook the receive wire to the music channel of an intercom
which would allow my crew to monitor ATIS full time with the intercom isolate
switch while I listen to center. Then with a 3 pole double throw switch, I
could go to the handheld in case of a total power failure and talk through an
intercom that has a bypass in case of a power failure. Does anyone have any
comments regarding this setup and a recommendation for an intercom?
Thanks
Bernie Kerr, 6A 55+hours, SE Fla
561-466-6701
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh(at)qualcomm.com> |
To who ever my be interested, I am building a F1 Rocket, kit number 19. I
added some more pictures to my website today. It is still not up to date
with my building but I can't seem to pull myself away from building long
enough to take pictures and add them to the site.
Any comments or questions are welcome. My E-mail address is
sstambaugh(at)qualcomm.com
My website is
http://www.geocities.com/rocket_f1
Dig in and look around. It doesn't compare to a lot of the sites out their
but time always seems to be my enemy. I will attempt to keep the pictures
more current and maybe even add a bit of commentary as I decide on the many
details of the airplane.
scot
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The First Dent...Oh @#$% |
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
Laird, You just have to look at the good side of things. . . . . . . .
The dent isn't between your eyes.
Cecil Hatfield
writes:
>
>
> Well, it finally happened. I got the first dent in the RV-6 Sunday.
> I'd always heard about bird strikes, but had never experienced one
> until now.
Damn.....He hit the leading edge in
between the 2nd and 3rd tank ribs, resulting in a 2" circular impact
crator. Plenty of blood and guts on the wing and stab. What a
mess.
Laird (Dented RV-6)
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rubber Ducky Antennas |
----- Original Message -----
From: "edperry64" <edperry64(at)netzero.net>
Sent: Friday, November 17, 2000 6:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: Rubber Ducky Antennas
>
> I posted this last night but have not seen it appear yet...So here we go
> again.
>
> I have searched the archives for using Rubber ducky antennas for the ELT.
> Has anybody actually done this or have any good or bad input on the idea?
> The plan is to mount it on top of the fuselage, behind the rear seat, and
> under the canopy of the
> RV-8.
>
> Thanks,
> Ed Perry
> RV8QB 180/CS
>
I mount them under the tail fairing horizontaly. Terry RV6&2RV8's
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
Listers:
I have received the VM-1000 from Chief's. Ordered it last Monday and
got it Friday... WOW.
I am amazed at all the transducers and sensors. I guess lost is a more
accurate word. I would appreciate any ideas about methods and places
that you listers have put the fuel flow sensors as well as the other
sensors that must be kept off of the engine. Any ideas would be a help.
I am building an RV4 with an 0-360 with the air-flow performance
injection system. The sensor that really has me thinking is the fuel
flow sensor that needs to go between the fuel controller and the fuel
spliter. Any pictures or just suggestions would be a big help. THANKS
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moshe Lichtman" <moshe_lichtman(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Recommendations? |
Listers,
Hi Pressure Boost Pump: am currently considering the AirFlow Performance as
backup pump for my RV6/IO360. Any recommendations on location for this large
pump? Any alternative pumps that will occupy less space? anyone used
Aircraft Spruce's Weldon hi press. elect. pump? These are not supposed to be
installed in hot areas, so those of you who put it on the firewall, please
let me know how you avoided this limitation?!
Engine: has anyone installed the Lyc AEIO-360-B1H in the RV6? Aircraft
Spruce sells these new for a very compelling price. What's the difference
vs. Van's AEIO-360-B1F??
Thanks,
Moshe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
In the vm-1000 manual it says to install the fuel flow transducer in the
pressure side of the fuel system. I called them to verify where it was to be
placed. i was told that there is a slight pressure drop through the
transducer, so they recomended placement after the engine driven pump.
fwiw
capsteve(at)adelphia.net
I have a VM1000 installed with an O-360 fuel injected engine in my
RV4. The fuel sensor can actually be installed anywhere in the system
downstream of the fuel selector valve but before the throttle body. I
believe Micro recommends installation in an area away from the heat. I
installed mine immediately downstream of the airflow performance electric
booster pump. It has worked just fine. It is amazing to see how accurate
the
fuel accumulation has been on the computer. It has been giving extremely
accurate readings. ( within a gallon on the totalizer on fillup). This
installation has been discussed on the list many times. A review of the
archives will certainly yield some different approaches to the installation.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A question, and an offer for my past Ti-down customers |
Randy,
I sent you a message from OUTlook today (11/18), but I have a feeling that
it wasn't sent. If you did get it please disregard this.
If you didn't > Since we weren't able to get a set earlier this year (before
you were going on vacation. We would like to get a set of 5165-K with the
bright blue bag, if there are any still available at $60. If there are any
left - please let me know how you would like to handle payment.
Thanks,
Chuck Rowbotham
RVB-8A
Niantic, CT
p.s. I'd also like to tallk to you making some RV tie down rings - out of
Ti. They sure would save us some weight.
************************
>From: Randy Simpson <airtime(at)proaxis.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: A question, and an offer for my past Ti-down customers
>Date: Fri, 03 Nov 2000 21:58:54 -0800
>
>
>RV-Listers, if you have no interest in Ti-down talk, please delete now, and
>pardon my semispamlike intrusion.
>
>There are over 200 RV listers using my Titanium Ti-downs, and this is by
>far the largest "group" of people using them. I hope all who are using them
>are enjoying them.
>
>I have a question for you guys and gals.
>Do any of you ever use the little scotchbrite cleanup pad I provide with
>the Ti-downs? I personally don't use one, as I just wipe any dirt off them
>as they come out of the ground, and don't worry about them gleaming or
>anything. It's silly to keep providing the pad if nobody uses it.
>Please let me know off list (airtime(at)proaxis.com) if you have an opinion on
>this matter, thanks.
>
>My cost for the Titanium I use making the Ti-downs is significant. The
>current price for 5/16" 6/4 Ti rod is $29.15/lb. It takes almost a pound
>and a half of Titanium to make a set, so alot of my potential profit goes
>to the Titanium supplier.
>I've just come across a good deal thru my workplace to get some 5/16"
>Titanium rod in coil form, for a really good price. My hotlathe can only
>use straight barstock for making the screw part, so I'll be making a coil
>straightner.
>I'm gonna be getting approx. 1500 lbs of that material (enough to make
>1000+ sets) on Monday, November 6. Here's a pic of 918 lbs of it...
>http://www.airtimemfg.com/Images/ti-coils.jpg
>
>Even with a "good deal" on the Ti material, 1500 lbs. is still alot of $$$,
>and I'm kinda strapped for that much cash at the moment, so....
>
>The offer I'm refering to in the subject line above is this:
>I have about 25 five coil sets (#5165-3)or kits (#5165-3K) made at the
>present time, and will sell them for an additional $10 off the already
>discounted RV-List price to my past customers, while they last. I know you
>past customers don't need another set or kit, but I'm sure you've impressed
>some of your flying buddies with them, and there may be some of them that
>would like some too. You could pass the savings on to your buds, or keep
>the $10 for your effort. They would also make a great Christmas present
>*groan, not THAT time already*
>#5165-3 "set"=$50 for past customers.
>#5165-3K "kit"=$60 for past customers.
>And I pay for the shipping, to US customers.
>This is the cheapest I've offered the Ti-downs for, and won't offer them
>that cheap again, once these 25 sets are gone.
>
>I have seven different colors of bags available for the kits now. You can
>see them here:
>http://www.airtimemfg.com/Images/5coilbags.jpg
>(black, charcoal grey, silver grey, navy blue, electric blue, maroon, and
>fuchsia).
>
>For comparison, you can see what another company has come up with for the
>purpose of tying down airplanes here:
>http://www.flyties.com
>Their price for all those pieces is $119.95 + $12.50(shipping). I think my
>Ti-downs are much better (you don't need to carry along a heavy hammer),
>and are half the price of those flyties.
>
>I recently (almost a month ago) ran an ad in the Kitplanes online magazine
>for my Titanium Ti-downs, and haven't recieved even one response from that.
>Kitplanes boasts 1.5 million website hits a month, but I'm wondering where
>they came up with that number *grin*
>Once I get that Titanium coil material and my straightner built, I'll be
>busy as a bee this winter, getting as many sets made as possible for the
>flying season next spring/summer. I'll probably start running magazine ads
>and hitting some of the bigger fly-ins, marketing them that way.
>
>This RV-list has defiantely been the best source for sales for me. Thank
>you.
>Sincerely,
>Randy Simpson
>Airtime Mfg.
>http://www.airtimemfg.com
>Carrera Ultralight flier
>RV flier wannabe
>
>p.s. I'm still looking forward to my first "RV Grin" sometime in the near
>future *wink wink*
>Anybody in the Willamette Valley able to give me (and my new wife) some RV
>inspiration?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Topic: RV-List: RV8 Rocket
Thread-Index: AcBRJGlkfWeM7hLlSBSGL56qdnnhLwANmfbw
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
John Marshall of Indianapolis was the "hired-gun" that built the
airplane. It crashed shortly after takeoff when the fuel injection
servo diaphragm ruptured. It's being rebuilt in John's hangar and I've
been meaning to buzz by his place to check out the progress on the
rebuild. I hear it's close to flying again. Very nice plane.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360 C/S 53 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mills, Trevor R" <MillsTR(at)az1.bp.com> |
| Subject: | Taxing in a tailwind |
Can you please help me with a disagreement in our gliding club.
Where should you hold your elevator control while taxing a taildragger
(pawnee) in a strong tailwind.
Thank you.
Trevor Mills.80605
________________________________________________________________________________
NORMAN,IVE GOT IO540 IN MY RV8,LOTS OF MODS,LOTS OF WORK,SHOULD BE AT SUN AND
FUN 2001 REGARDS TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jay T. Jenkins" <justjas(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Taxing in a tailwind |
"Dive - Away" from a tailwind. "Climb - Into" a headwind. In a tailwind
control goes forward and away from where the wind is coming from. Hope this
helps. Jay
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mills, Trevor R
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2000 6:37 AM
Subject: RV-List: Taxing in a tailwind
Can you please help me with a disagreement in our gliding club.
Where should you hold your elevator control while taxing a taildragger
(pawnee) in a strong tailwind.
Thank you.
Trevor Mills.80605
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Taxing in a tailwind |
--- "Mills, Trevor R" wrote:
> Can you please help me with a disagreement in our gliding club.
>
> Where should you hold your elevator control while taxing a
> taildragger
> (pawnee) in a strong tailwind.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Trevor Mills.80605
I was taught to "Climb into or Dive Away from the wind."
Tailwind would mean "Dive Away from the wind."
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
735+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Taxing in a tailwind |
"Mills, Trevor R" wrote:
>
>
> Can you please help me with a disagreement in our gliding club.
>
> Where should you hold your elevator control while taxing a taildragger
> (pawnee) in a strong tailwind.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Trevor Mills.80605
>
My training said stick forward for tailwind. Is there something unusual
about a Pawnee that would change that?
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nancy Jean Burkholder" <nancyb(at)mninter.net> |
| Subject: | using oops rivets on horizontal stab |
I'm having to replace the skin on the horizontal stab due to numerous and
significant riveting dings. I have a new pre-punched HS615PP skin that I
test fitted to the skeleton. All holes line up and I'm ready to rivet. The
existing rivet holes in the spars and ribs are oversize after drilling out
the old rivets and I realize I'll need to use #4 rivets to do the job.
If I use oops rivets I imagine I will redimple the skin for the AN426-AD3
rivets, then fit the skin to the skeleton and drill the skin and skeleton
out for the AN470-AD4 rivets. Finally, clean up the skin and rivet away.
Does anyone have any experience doing this? Am I missing anything or are
there any "oh by the way's" or "gotcha's" doing this? Would it be
worthwhile to go ahead and use AN426-AD4 rivets instead of oops rivets?
It seems pretty straight forward, but after mucking the first skin I feel a
bit gunshy on try two. I wanna get it right this time! The other skin is
riveted fine becuz I got help from an A&P friend who showed me the right air
pressure to use for #3 rivets.
nancy b. "Good people are always so sure they're right."
Barbara Graham's last words
Executed June 5, 1955 at San Quentin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clayfly(at)libertybay.com |
| Subject: | Taxing in a tailwind |
Trevor,
Push the stick full forward with a tail wind! This keeps the tail down when the
wind hits it from the rear.
If you pull the stick back and you get a gust of wind up your tail it can lift
the tail up and over. I've seen this happen (not to me, thank goodness). Ruins
your whole day. You'll find your pretty bird on its nose and you'll be hanging
by the seatbelts. Not good for the prop or your pride.
Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, 400+ hours in taildraggers (mostly Luscombe 8A). Trained
by many different taildragger instructors, all with the same counsel regarding
this question.
> ** Original Subject: RV-List: Taxing in a tailwind
> ** Original Sender: "Mills, Trevor R"
> ** Original Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2000 05:44:28 -0800
> ** Original Message follows...
>
>
> Can you please help me with a disagreement in our gliding club.
>
> Where should you hold your elevator control while taxing a taildragger
> (pawnee) in a strong tailwind.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Trevor Mills.80605
>
>
>
>
>
>** --------- End Original Message ----------- **
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: using oops rivets on horizontal stab |
In a message dated 11/18/00 8:16:40 AM Central Standard Time,
nancyb(at)mninter.net writes:
<< Does anyone have any experience doing this? Am I missing anything or are
there any "oh by the way's" or "gotcha's" doing this? Would it be
worthwhile to go ahead and use AN426-AD4 rivets instead of oops rivets? >>
You might want to run it past Van's. I was told by them that the "opps"
rivets shouldn't be used for any structural applications and are only for
replacing an occassional messed up rivet in the skin. I'm not sure about
using them for an entire skin. I would just check with them first. Also,
How much larger are the holes? Usually a one time removal, done correctly
doesn't enlarge the hole and you can use the original size rivet. Remeber,
the rivet expands to fill the hole (within reason). If the hole is too
large, usually you will know it by the rivets having a tendency to bend over
when you set them.
just my .02
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jay T. Jenkins" <justjas(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | N94KB 75 Hour Report |
I have a comment about prop balance. I had my prop on my RV-8 balanced at
the same time Ken had his balanced. Didn't think I had a problem, but
thought it might help. My out of balance condition was much higher than
Ken's, but now I'm running smooth as silk. Even if you don't think you have
a problem, Doug Shears will make your plane run smoother. I highly recommend
his service. Jay
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kbeene(at)AOL.COM
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2000 11:22 PM
Subject: RV-List: N94KB 75 Hour Report
Prop Balance - With limited experience with in a RV I didn't know what
kind
of vibrations to expect but did notice that when I throttled back to 1500
RPM
vibration was noticeable. At 70 hours I had the prop dynamically balanced
by
Doug Shears at Harmony Aviation. The pre-balance reading was 0.57 IPS and
after balance it is 0.025 IPS. Doug said the prebalance conditions were bad
but not severe. The aircraft is much smoother now at all RPM. This was
well
worth the expense. Doug has balanced about 3000 props and travels within a
10 state area around Minnesota. Get several airplane together as he gives
discounts for groups.(Doug Shears @ 800-SPIN BAlance)
Ken
Burnsville, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: using oops rivets on horizontal stab |
>
>I'm having to replace the skin on the horizontal stab due to numerous and
>significant riveting dings. I have a new pre-punched HS615PP skin that I
>test fitted to the skeleton. All holes line up and I'm ready to rivet. The
>existing rivet holes in the spars and ribs are oversize after drilling out
>the old rivets and I realize I'll need to use #4 rivets to do the job.
>
>If I use oops rivets I imagine I will redimple the skin for the AN426-AD3
>rivets, then fit the skin to the skeleton and drill the skin and skeleton
>out for the AN470-AD4 rivets. Finally, clean up the skin and rivet away.
>
>Does anyone have any experience doing this? Am I missing anything or are
>there any "oh by the way's" or "gotcha's" doing this? Would it be
>worthwhile to go ahead and use AN426-AD4 rivets instead of oops rivets?
>
>It seems pretty straight forward, but after mucking the first skin I feel a
>bit gunshy on try two. I wanna get it right this time! The other skin is
>riveted fine becuz I got help from an A&P friend who showed me the right air
>pressure to use for #3 rivets.
>
> nancy b. "Good people are always so sure they're right."
Nancy,
An occasional oops rivet is OK, but you really shouldn't use too many of
them, as they don't give the same strength. The head is quite small, so
they don't have the same pull out strength. I would recommend going to
AN426-AD4 rivets. The larger head size won't be that noticeable.
Hang in there,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PeterHunt1(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Tilt-up vs slider RV-6 canopy |
Hello listeners,
RV-6/6A tip-up Vs slider canopy. I need help to make an informed decision.
I know tip-ups can get hot on taxi, but how much can they be opened for
ventilation on taxi and how much of an issue is this? Further, what is the
trade off in visibility? What about getting a good weather seal and things
like access to behind the instrument panel?
I know what looks "cool" to me and I can factor the aesthetics in myself.
What I need is some practical feedback, particularly from those of you who
have flown both the tilt-up and slider. Thanks everyone.
Pete Hunt
RV-6 purchasing tools
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | : using oops rivets on horizontal stab |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Nancy:
I don't think your holes are oversize!!! Measure them. If you removed
them by poping the heads off, they are only oversized by the dempling
operation. You need to hope the hole will be near spec & use the -3's.
OR , you could add more "inbetween" rivets for strength if the holes are
too large.
The 4's wheather they have 3 heads or 4 heads are going to need more
force to set. Now you are back where you started trying to ding it up.
Don Jordan RV6A Arlington, Tx *** send $ to Matt, it November ***
*****************************************
writes:
>
>
> I'm having to replace the skin on the horizontal stab due to numerous
and significant riveting dings. I have a new pre-punched HS615PP skin
that I test fitted to the skeleton. All holes line up and I'm ready to
> rivet. The existing rivet holes in the spars and ribs are oversize
after drilling out the old rivets and I realize I'll need to use #4
rivets to do the job.
>
> If I use oops rivets I imagine I will redimple the skin for the
AN426-AD3 rivets, then fit the skin to the skeleton and drill the skin
and skeleton out for the AN470-AD4 rivets. Finally, clean up the skin
and rivet away.
>
> Does anyone have any experience doing this? Am I missing anything
> or are there any "oh by the way's" or "gotcha's" doing this? Would it
be
> worthwhile to go ahead and use AN426-AD4 rivets instead of oops
> rivets?
>
> It seems pretty straight forward, but after mucking the first skin I
feel a bit gunshy on try two. I wanna get it right this time! The other
skin is riveted fine becuz I got help from an A&P friend who showed me
the
> right air pressure to use for #3 rivets.
>
> nancy b. "Good people are always so sure they're right."
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tilt-up vs slider RV-6 canopy |
>
>Hello listeners,
>
>RV-6/6A tip-up Vs slider canopy. I need help to make an informed decision.
>I know tip-ups can get hot on taxi, but how much can they be opened for
>ventilation on taxi and how much of an issue is this?
I have a tip-up six and it was over 100 degrees probably 40 or 50 days this
last summer. I never got too hot while taxiing. With the canopy set in the
intermediate position with the latch in a roll-bar slot, ventilation is very
good.
The other issues are very well covered in the archives.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: using oops rivets on horizontal stab |
In a message dated 11/18/00 6:16:29 AM Pacific Standard Time,
nancyb(at)mninter.net writes:
<< dimple the skin for the AN426-AD3 rivets, then fit the skin to the
skeleton and drill the skin and skeleton out for the AN470-AD4 rivets. >>
I have not done a complete skin with OOP rivets (yet!) but I'll admit to
having used a bunch of them so far and that's the way I did it. You might
want to check with Van's because of the smaller factory head on the OOPS,
just for a comfort factor. Remember that the 4s are going to require a
heavier hit and larger bucking bar. Good luck.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Glover" <wirraway(at)bravo.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Need suggestions for intercom setup |
>
I would like to end up with a system that I can
either hear a handheld (ICOM
or YESHU???) or the apollow with a switch.
Hi Don,
I had a similar situation with the with the
intercom function on the King radio. As I wanted
to use 2 panel mounted coms and have facility for
audio inputs on engine and fuel monitoring alarms,
plus have AM/FM CD input as well, I opted for the
PS Engineering PMA4000. It's like a "mini" audio
panel, and has lots of smart features. The small
size is also a bonus and you have a choice of 2
panel types. I am currently looking at the
AnyWhere Pilot GPS system, that has audio output
for alarms, which will also link into the PMA4000.
One question that I asked myself, regarding an
intercom was, how will it be part the total
communication and alarm management system. Once I
worked out the specs on that, I then started
looking for a unit to "fit the need"........rather
than just purchase the cheapest "stand alone"
intercom.
BTW, Stark Avionics came out on top regarding best
price. The PMA4000 is proving to be good choice,
covering.....engine, fuel, entertainment and now
navigation, alarm inputs.
Cheers and take care,
Ken Glover Hunter Valley Australia RV6A
Foundation member SAAA Chapter 9 Hunter Valley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need suggestions for intercom setup |
I like the idea of the 2 1/4" mountable audio panel and intercom, but how
come it isn't stereo? Does anybody know of a similar setup which is?
Ed Holyoke
>
> >
> I would like to end up with a system that I can
> either hear a handheld (ICOM
>
> or YESHU???) or the apollow with a switch.
>
>
> Hi Don,
>
> I had a similar situation with the with the
> intercom function on the King radio. As I wanted
> to use 2 panel mounted coms and have facility for
> audio inputs on engine and fuel monitoring alarms,
> plus have AM/FM CD input as well, I opted for the
> PS Engineering PMA4000. It's like a "mini" audio
> panel, and has lots of smart features. The small
> size is also a bonus and you have a choice of 2
> panel types. I am currently looking at the
> AnyWhere Pilot GPS system, that has audio output
> for alarms, which will also link into the PMA4000.
> One question that I asked myself, regarding an
> intercom was, how will it be part the total
> communication and alarm management system. Once I
> worked out the specs on that, I then started
> looking for a unit to "fit the need"........rather
> than just purchase the cheapest "stand alone"
> intercom.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: : using oops rivets on horizontal stab |
Don't forget the old stanby, if the hole is only slightly over sized,
you can always pre-squeeze a one size longer rivet.
If the hole appears okay, you can slightly squeeze e.g. a AD3-4 down to
a AD3-3.5, the body will expand a hair and sit snug in the existing
hole.
Done that many a time on a drilled out rivet where the hole is way
smaller than a #4 bit a #3 is sloppy.
I suspect that if you were able to dril out most rivets without damaging
the holes, this could be your neatest solution.
Gert
Don Jordan wrote:
>
>
> Nancy:
>
> I don't think your holes are oversize!!! Measure them. If you removed
> them by poping the heads off, they are only oversized by the dempling
> operation. You need to hope the hole will be near spec & use the -3's.
>
> OR , you could add more "inbetween" rivets for strength if the holes are
> too large.
>
> The 4's wheather they have 3 heads or 4 heads are going to need more
> force to set. Now you are back where you started trying to ding it up.
>
> Don Jordan RV6A Arlington, Tx *** send $ to Matt, it November ***
> *****************************************
> writes:
> >
> >
> > I'm having to replace the skin on the horizontal stab due to numerous
> and significant riveting dings. I have a new pre-punched HS615PP skin
> that I test fitted to the skeleton. All holes line up and I'm ready to
> > rivet. The existing rivet holes in the spars and ribs are oversize
> after drilling out the old rivets and I realize I'll need to use #4
> rivets to do the job.
> >
> > If I use oops rivets I imagine I will redimple the skin for the
> AN426-AD3 rivets, then fit the skin to the skeleton and drill the skin
> and skeleton out for the AN470-AD4 rivets. Finally, clean up the skin
> and rivet away.
> >
> > Does anyone have any experience doing this? Am I missing anything
> > or are there any "oh by the way's" or "gotcha's" doing this? Would it
> be
> > worthwhile to go ahead and use AN426-AD4 rivets instead of oops
> > rivets?
> >
> > It seems pretty straight forward, but after mucking the first skin I
> feel a bit gunshy on try two. I wanna get it right this time! The other
> skin is riveted fine becuz I got help from an A&P friend who showed me
> the
> > right air pressure to use for #3 rivets.
> >
> > nancy b. "Good people are always so sure they're right."
>
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Taxing in a tailwind |
In a message dated 11/18/00 4:41:06 AM Pacific Standard Time,
MillsTR(at)az1.bp.com writes:
>
> Can you please help me with a disagreement in our gliding club.
>
> Where should you hold your elevator control while taxing a taildragger
> (pawnee) in a strong tailwind.
>
>
My personal rule is: the stick goes down wind.
Fred LaForge RV-4 EAA Tech C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Recommendations? |
Moche,
The Airflow Performance fuel pump fits reasonably under the pilot's legs just
in front of the gear mount. You mention that you have a 6, therefore there
should be even more room there.
Brian Eckstein
6A IO360 painting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | thomas sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com> |
| Subject: | fit of duckworks lens |
I have just about finished installing the Duckworks landing light in the
wing of mu RV-6A. I'm not real happy with the fit of the lens to the
leading edge of the wing. At the very leading edge there is a gap between
the plexiglas and the skin of about 1mm. That closes down to 0 as you go
away from the leading edge. I followed the directions using the strapping
tape to pull the lense forward while I drilled it to the skin.
Is this gap "acceptable"? Is it typical? Having the screw holes already
drilled and dimpled in the skin for number 6 screw, is it practical to
get another lens and try again?
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clayfly(at)libertybay.com |
Hi folks,
From my experience, I would highly recommend having your prop / powerplant balanced.
Glen David, a local RV-6 driver (Indy) and United mechanic, is our local
prop balancing guy. He has great equipment to do the job right.
For me, the prop balancing was more psychological than anything else. My 0-360
had 600 hours on it when I put it on my recently finished RV-4. During my test
flying I had an exhaust valve seat get loose in one of my cylinders. I got
it all fixed, but it left some doubts in my mind about my engine. Having the
prop balanced was one of a number of things I did that has reassured me that
everything is tight and humming along as it should.
Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, 50 something hours
Indy
Yeeehaaaww --- fun airplane!
> ** Original Subject: RE: RV-List: N94KB 75 Hour Report
> ** Original Sender: "Jay T. Jenkins"
> ** Original Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2000 07:45:34 -0800
> ** Original Message follows...
>
>
> I have a comment about prop balance. I had my prop on my RV-8 balanced at
> the same time Ken had his balanced. Didn't think I had a problem, but
> thought it might help. My out of balance condition was much higher than
> Ken's, but now I'm running smooth as silk. Even if you don't think you have
> a problem, Doug Shears will make your plane run smoother. I highly recommend
> his service. Jay
>
> -----Original Message-----From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kbeene(at)AOL.COM
> Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2000 11:22 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: N94KB 75 Hour Report
>
> Prop Balance - With limited experience with in a RV I didn't know what
> kind
> of vibrations to expect but did notice that when I throttled back to 1500
> RPM
> vibration was noticeable. At 70 hours I had the prop dynamically balanced
> by
> Doug Shears at Harmony Aviation. The pre-balance reading was 0.57 IPS and
> after balance it is 0.025 IPS. Doug said the prebalance conditions were bad
> but not severe. The aircraft is much smoother now at all RPM. This was
> well
> worth the expense. Doug has balanced about 3000 props and travels within a
> 10 state area around Minnesota. Get several airplane together as he gives
> discounts for groups.(Doug Shears @ 800-SPIN BAlance)
>
> Ken
> Burnsville, MN
>
>
>
>
>
>** --------- End Original Message ----------- **
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | fit of duckworks lens |
I saw those same lenses installed in a Hamon rocket and they too had a gap
at the leading edge. Might be the best fit that can be accomplished without
reshaping the lens slightly. Appears the lens curve isn't as sharp as the
wing leading edge.
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of thomas sargent
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2000 3:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: fit of duckworks lens
I have just about finished installing the Duckworks landing light in the
wing of mu RV-6A. I'm not real happy with the fit of the lens to the
leading edge of the wing. At the very leading edge there is a gap between
the plexiglas and the skin of about 1mm. That closes down to 0 as you go
away from the leading edge. I followed the directions using the strapping
tape to pull the lense forward while I drilled it to the skin.
Is this gap "acceptable"? Is it typical? Having the screw holes already
drilled and dimpled in the skin for number 6 screw, is it practical to
get another lens and try again?
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | The First Dent...Oh @#$% |
Cecil,
Your always looking on the bright side!
L
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Fri, Nov 17, 2000 9:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: The First Dent...Oh @#$%
Laird, You just have to look at the good side of things. . . . . . . .
The dent isn't between your eyes.
Cecil Hatfield
writes:
>
>
> Well, it finally happened. I got the first dent in the RV-6 Sunday.
> I'd always heard about bird strikes, but had never experienced one
> until now.
Damn.....He hit the leading edge in
between the 2nd and 3rd tank ribs, resulting in a 2" circular impact
crator. Plenty of blood and guts on the wing and stab. What a
mess.
Laird (Dented RV-6)
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moshe Lichtman" <moshe_lichtman(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Recommendations? |
Thanks.
----- Original Message -----
From: <BSEckstein(at)cs.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2000 3:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Recommendations?
>
> Moche,
>
> The Airflow Performance fuel pump fits reasonably under the pilot's legs
just
> in front of the gear mount. You mention that you have a 6, therefore
there
> should be even more room there.
>
> Brian Eckstein
> 6A IO360 painting
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan & Patty Krueger <pndkrueg(at)gulfsurf.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tilt-up vs slider RV-6 canopy |
PeterHunt1(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Hello listeners,
>
> RV-6/6A tip-up Vs slider canopy. I need help to make an informed decision.
I have no idea why I chose the tilt-up - it was too long ago. But I can say
that visibility and cockpit temperatures on the ground should not be a factor
in your decision - the visibility is phenomenal in both and with the right
deodorant the heat is not a factor.
I will assume that you have the preview plans - take a good look at them since
there are significant differences between the tilt-up and slider. If you follow
the plans for the tilt-up exactly, there will be structural limitations on
where you can place items on your instrument panel. You can not put your
avionics package in the center of your package/your gyro instruments will be
forced low to not interfere with the hinge/etc. All of the great panel pictures
I have from Sun N Fun are of "sliders".
Think ahead and see if your panel plan is compatible with a tilt-up. Mine
wasn't.
Dan Krueger
Building panel (obviously)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fit of duckworks lens |
You might be able to form the lens by making it CAREFULLY warm/hot when
pulling it in the opening.
worked for me, warmed it from the back through the hole in the spar
(rv8) and let it cool. Your mileage may vary.
gert
Greg Tanner wrote:
>
>
> I saw those same lenses installed in a Hamon rocket and they too had a gap
> at the leading edge. Might be the best fit that can be accomplished without
> reshaping the lens slightly. Appears the lens curve isn't as sharp as the
> wing leading edge.
>
> Greg Tanner
> RV-9A Empennage
> SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of thomas sargent
> Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2000 3:24 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: fit of duckworks lens
>
>
> I have just about finished installing the Duckworks landing light in the
> wing of mu RV-6A. I'm not real happy with the fit of the lens to the
> leading edge of the wing. At the very leading edge there is a gap between
> the plexiglas and the skin of about 1mm. That closes down to 0 as you go
> away from the leading edge. I followed the directions using the strapping
> tape to pull the lense forward while I drilled it to the skin.
>
> Is this gap "acceptable"? Is it typical? Having the screw holes already
> drilled and dimpled in the skin for number 6 screw, is it practical to
> get another lens and try again?
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Tom Sargent.
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Tilt-up vs slider RV-6 canopy |
In a message dated 11/18/00 7:25:38 AM Pacific Standard Time,
PeterHunt1(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< RV-6/6A tip-up Vs slider canopy. I need help to make an informed
decision. >>
Slider is best. Get it, build it, enjoy it. End of story ;
).
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Jig Available (6/6A) |
In a message dated 11/18/00 6:56:49 AM Pacific Standard Time,
ENewton57(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< Anyone in the Biloxi, MS (New Orleans,LA - Mobile, AL) area or willing to
drive that far can have my wood fuselage jig (RV-6/6A) for free if you'll
come and pick it up. Its made from dried pine and is screwed/glued
together.
email me off-line for my phone number and address and you can have it in
about a week. >>
Biloxi? I spent a lifetime in Biloxi one year while attending USAF
electronics tech school right after Camille.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fit of duckworks lens |
you might try a heat gun to GENTLY re-shape the lens to fit the contour of
thewing at that point...it has worked for me on production aircraft....do not
archive
jolly in aurora, waiting onRV8A
Greg Tanner wrote:
>
> I saw those same lenses installed in a Hamon rocket and they too had a gap
> at the leading edge. Might be the best fit that can be accomplished without
> reshaping the lens slightly. Appears the lens curve isn't as sharp as the
> wing leading edge.
>
> Greg Tanner
> RV-9A Empennage
> SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of thomas sargent
> Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2000 3:24 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: fit of duckworks lens
>
>
> I have just about finished installing the Duckworks landing light in the
> wing of mu RV-6A. I'm not real happy with the fit of the lens to the
> leading edge of the wing. At the very leading edge there is a gap between
> the plexiglas and the skin of about 1mm. That closes down to 0 as you go
> away from the leading edge. I followed the directions using the strapping
> tape to pull the lense forward while I drilled it to the skin.
>
> Is this gap "acceptable"? Is it typical? Having the screw holes already
> drilled and dimpled in the skin for number 6 screw, is it practical to
> get another lens and try again?
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Tom Sargent.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tire & brake wear |
The total number of hours on brakes and tires is sort of irrelevant. I would
think that it should be logged by the number of landings. If you fly to Grandma's
house every weekend and she lives 3 hrs away you may get 133 landings in 400
hours of flying. Now if you go out and do 10 landings for every hour you fly,
which sometimes I do, you would get 4000 landings in said 400 hrs. Now that would
be impressive. So the number of landings is the important number, not the number
of hours flown.
That said I will agree that the slower you land the longer both the brakes and
tires will last. Both in number of landings and hours flown.
There are many factors that affect the life of the brakes and tires. How far do
you taxi from the parking spot to the runway. If I use 17-35 this is a couple of
miles. 8-26 is about a quarter mile. The more you taxi the faster the tires wear.
Is it always windy where you fly? If there is a strong crosswind I find I need
to
tap the upwind brake to keep things straight, this affects brake life.
Nuff said, off my soap box
Gary Zilik
>
>
> Ed--
>
> If you can get those numbers for landings with the AeroTrainers/brake
> pads, you are doing a spectacular job with your landings. My
> congratulations!!! Spread the word--do like Ed!!!
>
>
> > I don't claim to be more than an average pilot, but flying in this manner
> > has allowed me to put 400 hours on the airplane and I still have the
> > original Aero-Trainer tires installed. I rotated them at 250 hours, and
> > I'll get at 450-500 out of them. I replaced the brake pads at 350 hours,
> > and they still had a little life left, but the wheels were off for the
> > conditional inspection anyway so I went ahead and replaced them.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Was Chief's cheaper than Van's.
Larry Bowen
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Aronson
> Sent: Friday, November 17, 2000 10:42 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: VM-1000
>
>
>
>
> Listers:
> I have received the VM-1000 from Chief's. Ordered it last Monday and
> got it Friday... WOW.
>
> I am amazed at all the transducers and sensors. I guess lost is a more
> accurate word. I would appreciate any ideas about methods and places
> that you listers have put the fuel flow sensors as well as the other
> sensors that must be kept off of the engine. Any ideas would be a help.
> I am building an RV4 with an 0-360 with the air-flow performance
> injection system. The sensor that really has me thinking is the fuel
> flow sensor that needs to go between the fuel controller and the fuel
> spliter. Any pictures or just suggestions would be a big help. THANKS
>
> Dave Aronson
> RV4 N504RV
> FWF
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tilt-up vs slider RV-6 canopy |
Better visibility for the tilt-up, but visibility from the slider is fine
also. Slightly lighter weight with the tip up. Not as sexy as the slider.
Both difficult to fit correctly. I find access to rear of panel easier, but
then some would think it messy. Whichever you choose you'll find things you
like and hate about each.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A Tilt-Up (Didn't have a white scarf {:>)
Do not archieve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Tilt-up vs slider RV-6 canopy |
> > RV-6/6A tip-up Vs slider canopy. I need help to make an informed
decision.
>
> I have no idea why I chose the tilt-up - it was too long ago. But I can
say
> that visibility and cockpit temperatures on the ground should not be a
factor
> in your decision - the visibility is phenomenal in both and with the right
> deodorant the heat is not a factor.
I choose the tip up for the in flight visibility. I live in Canada so I
didn't figure heat while taxing was going to have many oportunities to annoy
me.
> If you follow
> the plans for the tilt-up exactly, there will be structural limitations on
> where you can place items on your instrument panel.
This is true. To get around it I desinged a new panel and support srtucture.
My panel is very heavy and I wanted to go without the center bracing
section.
I started by installing angle from one side of the fuselage to the other at
the level of the bottom edge of the panel. Mine is 1 3/4" lower than stock
RV6. The skins have large 032 doubler plates then 2x2 angle joining to the
cross angle. The panel itself is made up of a large left section (about
halfway accross) then the avionics stack, and lastly a small panel (about
1/4 of the total space). The avoinics stack goes from top to bottom but the
RMI Monitor had to go on the top to fit inside the canopy frame. It fits
well there. The long instruments (AI, DG, Navaid, CDI/GS,Strikefinder) have
to be lined up starting from the rib behind the subpanel. They can only be
two high but they are in perfect rows and in very natural positions. I
bought extra ribs to join the panel to the subpanel and have them between
all the left side instruments. The avoinics will all be joined at the
subpanel which has been strengthened by adding angle accross it's bottom.
The right and left panels will have service loops in the wires to accomodate
maintenance from the front.
Challanges yet to be addressed are some kind of a cover panel to protect and
beautify the backside of the panel when the tip up is open. I want two small
fans to draw heat from behind the panel and up onto the canopy. At this
point I see nothing but clearance problems but I am determined to have
electric defrost.
> You can not put your
> avionics package in the center of your package/your gyro instruments will
be
> forced low to not interfere with the hinge/etc. All of the great panel
pictures
> I have from Sun N Fun are of "sliders".
Just wait.........
>
> Think ahead and see if your panel plan is compatible with a tilt-up. Mine
> wasn't.
Mine took three major cardboard revisions before I had all the clearance
issues solved.
I am in love with the final look but haven't started to build it yet.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | The Recount......... |
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or
Matt Dralle
c/o Matronics
P.O. Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
Well MAtt(e) has been recounting the number of contributors since last
Thursday and as far as I know he has only found a few missed contributions.
This means we are still below last years totals at this time. Now we all
know what inflation is and although it has been in check for the past year,
it is still there. That means we are really further behind than we
think. Now it is all of our responsibility to get that contribution in and
not wait until the last minute. Remember when you were back in school and
you used to put off your homework until the last minute? You had originally
planned on doing the homework and maybe the extra credit work too. Then it
get close to the deadline and you only do the homework and your glad that's
done. Well your contribution is like the extra credit work......if you
don't get it done early, chances are you won't get it done. So please get
it done now !!!..............
I have my homework and extra credit work done........do you?..........AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gar & Jan Pessel" <pessel(at)ptialaska.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Taxing in a tailwind |
----- Original Message -----
From: Mills, Trevor R <MillsTR(at)az1.bp.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2000 3:36 AM
Subject: RV-List: Taxing in a tailwind
>
> Can you please help me with a disagreement in our gliding club.
>
> Where should you hold your elevator control while taxing a taildragger
> (pawnee) in a strong tailwind.
>
In a strong tailwind, a taildragger must be taxied with the elevators down
(stick forward). Do not ask me how I know. Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, AK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | Need suggestions for intercom setup |
I was told it is not stereo because they simply ran out of connection points
on te connector (a DB-25 I think).
James
... wishing I was at the stage of worring about intercoms ;-)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Holyoke
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2000 3:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Need suggestions for intercom setup
I like the idea of the 2 1/4" mountable audio panel and intercom, but how
come it isn't stereo? Does anybody know of a similar setup which is?
Ed Holyoke
>
> >
> I would like to end up with a system that I can
> either hear a handheld (ICOM
>
> or YESHU???) or the apollow with a switch.
>
>
> Hi Don,
>
> I had a similar situation with the with the
> intercom function on the King radio. As I wanted
> to use 2 panel mounted coms and have facility for
> audio inputs on engine and fuel monitoring alarms,
> plus have AM/FM CD input as well, I opted for the
> PS Engineering PMA4000. It's like a "mini" audio
> panel, and has lots of smart features. The small
> size is also a bonus and you have a choice of 2
> panel types. I am currently looking at the
> AnyWhere Pilot GPS system, that has audio output
> for alarms, which will also link into the PMA4000.
> One question that I asked myself, regarding an
> intercom was, how will it be part the total
> communication and alarm management system. Once I
> worked out the specs on that, I then started
> looking for a unit to "fit the need"........rather
> than just purchase the cheapest "stand alone"
> intercom.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 195 Question |
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
11/18/2000 11:03:26 PM
Dave: Sorry it's taken me so long to get back to you on this one. I just
spent the last two weeks getting a pancreas transplant but I'm back on line
now.
There are compelling arguments to be had for both ways to mount the 195.
The easy access and removal of the unit by using any number of quick
disconnect methods from Velcro to a quick release locking mount gives you
the ability to take it home and study, download new maps, and use in your
trip planning. I even used to use mine to go into the simulation mode and
fly my intended route on the simulator to become more familiar with the
flight path before starting a long trip. The more permanent mount method
where you actually screw the unit into the panel is more for the serious
user who demands a lot from his unit. I intend to use the on board timers
for fuel planning, do a lot of programming while in flight and use the E6B
onboard for preflight before run-up. There is a ton you can do with that
big screen once you become more familiar with all the software. I found
quickly that I needed a more permanent mount if I was to do any amount of
button pushing. Other wise I found the unit giving way with each button
push and being pushed around the panel. I guess it all depends on how
strong and stable your mount is.
As for my mounting technique, I ended up opening up the unit by just
removing the screws on the back and unplugging a cable or two to completely
separate the front half from the back half. This way I could easily trace
the front of the unit right on to the panel. I purposely made the hole
large enough so that I could reassemble the unit back to it's original
water tightness and mount it after the fact by making a strong bracket out
of 063 that mounted to the Garman supplied bracket. I then attached my
mounting bracket directly to the panel in four places. This provided me
with a really solid mount that doesn't even wiggle when I press all the
buttons. You might also want to check out Garman's accessory catalog and
get the wiring harness that allows you to plug into all the functionality
for things like autopilot hook ups, power, etc.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( taking some time off while I recoup )
O-360 Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan & Patty Krueger <pndkrueg(at)gulfsurf.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tilt-up vs slider RV-6 canopy |
PeterHunt1(at)AOL.COM wrote:
Peter's post had been languishing on the list for a week with minimal response,
so I thought that I would offer an opinion - I've been lurking on the list for
three years plus and building off and on for longer than I want to say. The
responses my post brought out have given Peter some real basis to make a
decision. Norman Hunger's post exemplifies best what I wanted to convey to
Peter - with the tip-up you may have to make changes to van's plans to get
exactly what you want for your panel. Personally I have stayed purely stock and
have had to move the fuel qty gauges to a position that I really don't want and
reposition the switches. With the slider I would have had much more latitude.
Peter - I didn't mean to imply that there is limited room on the tip-up canopy.
I will have full flight inst, GPS/Comm, transponder,ESI engine monitor,elect
Bob's fuse block design, and so much blank space that it is almost ugly.
Isn't this list great (when members are not fighting)
Dan Krueger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Glover" <wirraway(at)bravo.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: seats, torque wrench |
<<< Does anyone out there want to put together
some dimensions of where the
> seats go? I want to put different seats in
my -8A, but am not that far yet
> on my fuse...
>
> Anybody have the dimensions of Jon's seats?>>>
Hi Bill,
This is a very NEW product for Jon, and not many
have been shipped. I think Jon wanted some user
feed back, prior to full production.
Please call him at jonj(at)writeme.com and he could
give you the sizes and possibly some pictures.
BTW, I like your website.....it's cool man!!!!!!!
Cheers and take care,
Ken Glover Hunter Valley Australia RV6A
Foundation member SAAA Chapter 9 Hunter Valley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
Beth and I took a stab at leveling the wing spars in the jigs tonight.
Have a look at what it takes to get these puppies level and let me know
if you think we've missed something.
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/WingSkinning.htm
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tilt-up vs slider RV-6 canopy |
>Norman Hunger's post exemplifies best what I wanted to convey to
>Peter - with the tip-up you may have to make changes to van's
>plans to get exactly what you want for your panel. Personally I have
>stayed purely stock and have had to move the fuel qty gauges to a
>position that I really don't want and reposition the switches. With the
>slider I would have had much more latitude.
Although I agree with Dan on this, I did find that I was able to load
my panel up with goodies (analog types) and didn't have to modify
the panel's support structure. I did have to watch for instrument
lengths on the sides and had to move things to one side slightly to
allow for the flight instruments. So far, I'm pleased with the results.
Attached is a photo of my panel. As you can see, it's full.
As a newby to building aircraft, I was skeptical about moving the
support braces because they attached to ribs on the front side of the
subpanel. That told me the supports needed the extra support. I
also didn't cut the slots in the top skin for the tip up hinges because I
never plan to pull the canopy lever in flight. I cut the slots for the
hinges just short of going through the little trough and have had no
water problems, so far.
I responded off line to the original question of my preferences for
slider vs the tip up. I had slider on my Cheetah; but, I think I prefer
the tip up on the RV. I've looked at the pros and cons and still think
I made the right choice for me.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (75+ on the tach)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
I've been watching the thread concerning the number of landings vs
tire wear. As luck would have it, I do a lot of landings with cross winds
and maybe a little faster than some of you. Now, I have to think about
replacing my original main tires. I've looked at the archives a little; but,
I'm still not sure what I want for tire replacement. Some of you out there
have had plenty of experience with the tires and the old style single
piece pants, by now; so, what did you buy as replacements? I
understand that we have to be selective due to the fit with the pants.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Morrissey, John" <John.Morrissey(at)its.csiro.au> |
| Subject: | Taxing in a tailwind |
Hi Trevor,
After spending many happy hours dragging Gliders all over the sky in a
Pawnee at a site that is famous for Wave flying (In Oz:-)) and hence strong
winds - The standard practice is "wind up the ars$, point the nose at the
grass" Alway's taxi with the stick full forward with a tailwind. Its a
pretty rare set of circumstances that would change this.
Apologies to the ladies on the list :-)
Cheers
John Morrissey
-----Original Message-----
From: Mills, Trevor R [mailto:MillsTR(at)az1.bp.com]
Sent: Saturday, 18 November 2000 11:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: Taxing in a tailwind
Can you please help me with a disagreement in our gliding club.
Where should you hold your elevator control while taxing a taildragger
(pawnee) in a strong tailwind.
Thank you.
Trevor Mills.80605
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: using oops rivets on horizontal stab |
I'm a new comer and learning as I go. What is an "oops" rivet?
Dennis Thomas
Santa Cruz, Ca
________________________________________________________________________________
Yes John Marshell of Indianapolis In 1-317-862-2389.
John Bunn 80023
________________________________________________________________________________
This was not the cause of the rv-8 (540) crash. It was over 3000' in the air
when the engine stoped. The fuel enjection had never been overhauled so the
told me.
________________________________________________________________________________
the aircraft is finshed except for paint. john bunn 80023
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | earl fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fit of duckworks lens |
My lens fit perfect the first time which is a little rare on my project
but not being able to look at your lens you might consider
heating the lens til it gets soft and reform it slightly. If you are
going to buy another lens you have nothing to lose. I suspect
Van's and other vendor's do a booming replacement parts business.
Earl, RV4
thomas sargent wrote:
>
>
> I have just about finished installing the Duckworks landing light in the
> wing of mu RV-6A. I'm not real happy with the fit of the lens to the
> leading edge of the wing. At the very leading edge there is a gap between
> the plexiglas and the skin of about 1mm. That closes down to 0 as you go
> away from the leading edge. I followed the directions using the strapping
> tape to pull the lense forward while I drilled it to the skin.
>
> Is this gap "acceptable"? Is it typical? Having the screw holes already
> drilled and dimpled in the skin for number 6 screw, is it practical to
> get another lens and try again?
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Tom Sargent.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Web Page update |
In a message dated 11/19/00 12:41:11 AM Central Standard Time,
mnellis(at)emailusa.net writes:
<< Beth and I took a stab at leveling the wing spars in the jigs tonight.
Have a look at what it takes to get these puppies level and let me know
if you think we've missed something.
>>
Mike,
Looks good. Since you used the aft side of the top spar for reference of the
1" line, I would just double check the 1" from top in a few places along the
entire length. Sometimes the flange width can vary a little and this would
throw the 1" mark off.
Keep up the good work. Your work looks excellent!
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage almost ready to flip)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: using oops rivets on horizontal stab |
In a message dated 11/19/00 7:03:36 AM Central Standard Time,
DThomas773(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< What is an "oops" rivet? >>
It is a flush rivet that has a #4 shank and #3 sized head. It is designed to
replace drilled out rivets where you accidentally drill the hole oversize.
It allows you to go to the next size hole without having to have the bigger
rivet head that goes with it. This keeps the rivets all uniform in high
visibility areas.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage almost ready to flip)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Taxing in a tailwind |
Trevor,
I have been teaching tail wheels for a long time and have never gotten a good
answer to that question. The idea is to keep as much down pressure as
possible on the tail wheel. The slip stream of the prop is suprisingly strong
even at idle, if you stand behind the plane with a tail wind and the engine
at idle, you can feel the prop blast with the wind blowing as high as twenty
miles an hour. When you add power to start moving that increases of course.
I teach stick back to twenty-five but be ready to go stick forward fast if
the tail starts to move up or sideways.
Not the best answer maybe but the best I know.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jah" <jah(at)abraxis.com> |
Listers,
I have the following items for sale. All items are new
and unused. The reason for selling them is that I have
simply made other decisions on what to use in my -8.
All items where purchased from Van's. I have included
Van's part numbers below so that you can look at Van's
catalog to see the item.
Description Part Number My Price
UMA Electric Analog Tachometer IE UMA-19-806-11G $200.00
Magnetic Compass (Pedestal) IF CM-24L $65.00
Inverted Fuel Pick-up IF-4/6 $25.00
All prices are U.S. Dollars. I'll pay ground shipping within U.S.
Thanks,
Jeff Hawkins
Atlanta, Georgia
RV-8 Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>>
>
>I had a conversation with Ken Kruger of Van's about engines for the -8, and
>it was his opinion that the IO-360 was even too heavy for it... He said it
>loses some of it's great flying characteristics with that much weight on
>the
>nose, especially on landing... He said he loved to fly the -8 with the
>O320
>in it... He also said of friend of his has an -8 with 150HP in it that
>flies great.
>
Agreed. Even with an O-360/metal Sensenich prop and firewall mounted
battery, the trim in my airplane is maxed out to keep the nose up to 75mph
on approach while flown solo. To achieve this, I place 30 pounds of tools,
water and survival stuff on the back baggage hold shelf. I can't imagine
how an IO-540 could be installed in an RV8 and flown solo from the front
seat. It also eats into valuable useful payload, raises the wing loading &
stall speed, and puts the airplane into a very unforgiving performance
envelope that could result in severe G loads in turbulence while cruising at
close to Vne.
Install an engine that Van's designed the airplane for and enjoy a wonderful
airplane. No reason to reinvent the wheel.
Just my two cents.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
150 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: using oops rivets on horizontal stab |
>
>In a message dated 11/19/00 7:03:36 AM Central Standard Time,
>DThomas773(at)AOL.COM writes:
>
><< What is an "oops" rivet? >>
>
>It is a flush rivet that has a #4 shank and #3 sized head. It is designed to
>replace drilled out rivets where you accidentally drill the hole oversize.
>It allows you to go to the next size hole without having to have the bigger
>rivet head that goes with it. This keeps the rivets all uniform in high
>visibility areas.
>
>Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
They are sold as NAS1097 rivets by Vans, Avery and other suppliers.
They also come in a #3 size, which is very useful for mounting plate
nuts, because the head is very small, and you don't have to
countersink very much. This is good for thin skins.
Avery sells a nice kit with 4 different lengths of the #3 and #4
NAS1097 rivets. Every builder should have one.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tilt-up vs slider RV-6 canopy |
> >
> > Hello listeners,
> >
> > RV-6/6A tip-up Vs slider canopy. I need help to make an informed
decision.
>
> I have no idea why I chose the tilt-up - it was too long ago. But I can
say
> that visibility and cockpit temperatures on the ground should not be a
factor
> in your decision - the visibility is phenomenal in both and with the right
> deodorant the heat is not a factor.
> snip>
. If you follow> the plans for the tilt-up exactly, there will be structural
limitations on
> where you can place items on your instrument panel. You can not put your
> avionics package in the center of your package/your gyro instruments will
be
> forced low to not interfere with the hinge/etc. All of the great panel
pictures
> I have from Sun N Fun are of "sliders".
Fellows-
I ran into the same difficulty when building my IP - the left hinge hit
the electric A/H. I solved the problem with a second IP and spread the
flight instruments out a bit. All my instruments are 2" down from the top
and look well. The offending hinge now resides between the ASI and the AH.
Douglas G. Murray RV-6 Radio wiring completed and now off to the paint
shop
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Friday, November 17, 2000 10:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: VM-1000
>
> Hi Dave,
>
> I have a VM1000 installed with an O-360 fuel injected engine in my
> RV4. The fuel sensor can actually be installed anywhere in the system
>
> Dave, this absolutely wrong. I have installed at least 10 of the systems
and know for a fact that flow tranducer on fuel injected engines has to go
Between the fuel servo and the fuel distributor. This is detailed well in
the manual.This is not only true for vision, but for any fuel flow installed
on
either experimental or certified.Terry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tire & brake wear |
The total number of hours on brakes and tires is sort of irrelevant. I
would
think that it should be logged by the number of landings. If you fly to
Grandma's
house every weekend and she lives 3 hrs away you may get 133 landings
in 400
hours of flying. Now if you go out and do 10 landings for every hour you
fly,
which sometimes I do, you would get 4000 landings in said 400 hrs. Now
that would
be impressive. So the number of landings is the important number, not
the number
of hours flown.
That said I will agree that the slower you land the longer both the
brakes and
tires will last. Both in number of landings and hours flown.
There are many factors that affect the life of the brakes and tires. How
far do
you taxi from the parking spot to the runway. If I use 17-35 this is a
couple of
miles. 8-26 is about a quarter mile. The more you taxi the faster the
tires wear.
Is it always windy where you fly? If there is a strong crosswind I find
I need to
tap the upwind brake to keep things straight, this affects brake life.
Nuff said, off my soap box
Gary Zilik
>
>
> Ed--
>
> If you can get those numbers for landings with the AeroTrainers/brake
> pads, you are doing a spectacular job with your landings. My
> congratulations!!! Spread the word--do like Ed!!!
>
>
> > I don't claim to be more than an average pilot, but flying in this manner
> > has allowed me to put 400 hours on the airplane and I still have the
> > original Aero-Trainer tires installed. I rotated them at 250 hours, and
> > I'll get at 450-500 out of them. I replaced the brake pads at 350 hours,
> > and they still had a little life left, but the wheels were off for the
> > conditional inspection anyway so I went ahead and replaced them.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
glenn williams wrote:
>
>
> Norman I saw one rv-8 with an O-540 it was the one
> that caused the vans service letter for the fuel
November 11, 2000 - November 19, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-jq