RV-Archive.digest.vol-jr
November 19, 2000 - November 27, 2000
> pickup tube in the tanks. It crashed during takeoff.
> It is my understanding that Van will not even want to
> talk to you about an 0-540 in an 8 I'd go with an
> IO-360 and your still talking about keeping your temps
> down during climbout etc.etc.
>
> Glenn Williams
>
Glenn you are talking about the one that was taking off at
Independence, Oregon. It quit on takeoff because the fuel
pickup tube had rotated when some work was being done on
the tank. My point is to this that it is not a O-540
in this airplane it is an IO-360.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
From my experience, the only way I see that
working is if you solo it from the back seat.
We built an 8 with the 200 in it an it was so nose
heavy that it was no fun to fly.We are currently
building another with a hopped up O 360 and the
battery in the back. We also installed aluminum
gear the help with the CG.Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
| Subject: | Re: Taxing in a tailwind |
There is a semi-objective way to determine wind vs. prop wash to
determine stick position. My crop duster friend, Oran Wolfe, who always
taxied as if his life depended on knowing the wind, because it did,
considering the back country strips/non-strips that he would fly out of,
and the enormous difference in weight/cg change at the start and end of
a dusting load--would always taxi with his arm held out in the wind
stream and palm held vertically--if he felt the wind on the front or
back of his hand, he would position the stick accordingly, no matter
what the wind sock showed. And remember the up-wind and down-wing
aileron position along with the elevator--every one is afraid of going
nose over, but bending your downwind wingtip can ruin your day just as well.
FWIW, for the prop wash doubters, with my brakes locked, I can raise and
lower my tail wheel with just the throttle on a no wind day.
Boyd
N600SS
"the answer is blowin' in the wind"
>
>
> Trevor,
> I have been teaching tail wheels for a long time and have never gotten a good
> answer to that question. The idea is to keep as much down pressure as
> possible on the tail wheel. The slip stream of the prop is suprisingly strong
> even at idle, if you stand behind the plane with a tail wind and the engine
> at idle, you can feel the prop blast with the wind blowing as high as twenty
> miles an hour. When you add power to start moving that increases of course.
> I teach stick back to twenty-five but be ready to go stick forward fast if
> the tail starts to move up or sideways.
> Not the best answer maybe but the best I know.
> Bob
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Tire & brake wear |
Suggest reading the following Cleveland attachment...Jim Brown, NJ, RV - 3 &
4.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Taxing in a tailwind |
Come on now Boyd. With about 320 HP up front you could probably pull stumps
out of the ground if the tail were tied to them also. :)
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
>
> FWIW, for the prop wash doubters, with my brakes locked, I can raise and
> lower my tail wheel with just the throttle on a no wind day.
>
> Boyd
> N600SS
> "the answer is blowin' in the wind"
> >
> >
> > Trevor,
> > I have been teaching tail wheels for a long time and have never gotten a
good
> > answer to that question. The idea is to keep as much down pressure as
> > possible on the tail wheel. The slip stream of the prop is suprisingly
strong
> > even at idle, if you stand behind the plane with a tail wind and the
engine
> > at idle, you can feel the prop blast with the wind blowing as high as
twenty
> > miles an hour. When you add power to start moving that increases of
course.
> > I teach stick back to twenty-five but be ready to go stick forward fast
if
> > the tail starts to move up or sideways.
> > Not the best answer maybe but the best I know.
> > Bob
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Smart Level Calibration |
Does anybody out there have the instructions on how to calibrate a smart
level? I noticed when leveling my wing spar in the jigs that the level
reads level in one direction but when I turn the level around it's about
.7 deg off. That may not sound like much but it seems to be enough of a
difference to through the plumb lines off by about 1/16".
I can work with the error and assume that when the level reads .3 deg on
each side it's level, but I'd rather get it right if someone has the
calibration instructions.
Thanks
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave" <dhrycauk(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fit of duckworks lens |
Tom;
My lens fits tight until I placed the foam tape along the seam line, I now
have about a 1mm gap. I'm thinking that over time the tape should hopefully
flatten out some and snug up. Overall I like the duckworks installation.
Dave Hrycauk
RV-8 Fuel Tanks (final duel with proseal)
Fuselage coming....
http://www.telusplanet.net/public/dhrycauk/index.htm
Lacombe, Alberta Canada
----- Original Message -----
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2000 4:23 PM
Subject: RV-List: fit of duckworks lens
>
> I have just about finished installing the Duckworks landing light in the
> wing of mu RV-6A. I'm not real happy with the fit of the lens to the
> leading edge of the wing. At the very leading edge there is a gap between
> the plexiglas and the skin of about 1mm. That closes down to 0 as you go
> away from the leading edge. I followed the directions using the strapping
> tape to pull the lense forward while I drilled it to the skin.
>
> Is this gap "acceptable"? Is it typical? Having the screw holes already
> drilled and dimpled in the skin for number 6 screw, is it practical to
> get another lens and try again?
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Tom Sargent.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Solid state compass at inspection time |
Hi Listers,
I put a compass in the panel and I get an indicated 25 degree turn to the
east whenever I turn on the radio. (The plane is in the shop and has not
flown yet.)
I think I will put another instrument in that 2.25 inch hole and attempt to
install one of those digital compasses with the remote sensing head. The
local boat shop sells them. I think that I saw one or two in RV's on web
sites with this set up, too. My question? Will the inspector take the
position that this is no compass at all and fail to give me an airworthiness
certificate when that great inspection day arrives?
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
RV-6A Wheel pant to gear leg fairings and a thousand other details
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Solid state compass at inspection time |
> I put a compass in the panel and I get an indicated 25 degree turn to the
> east whenever I turn on the radio. (The plane is in the shop and has not
> flown yet.)
Could you please give us the approximate dimensions between the edge of the
radio and the compass? Those of us following in your footsteps could
benefit.
Thanks,
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Smart Level Calibration |
>
>Does anybody out there have the instructions on how to calibrate a smart
>level? I noticed when leveling my wing spar in the jigs that the level
>reads level in one direction but when I turn the level around it's about
>.7 deg off. That may not sound like much but it seems to be enough of a
>difference to through the plumb lines off by about 1/16".
>
>I can work with the error and assume that when the level reads .3 deg on
>each side it's level, but I'd rather get it right if someone has the
>calibration instructions.
>
>Thanks
>
>Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
>Plainfield, IL
>http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
>
Place level on flat surface. Wait 10 seconds. Push and hold the
"Calibrate" button for 2 seconds. "CAL1" will appear briefly on the
display. Rotate smart tool end for end (keeping the same side up).
Wait 10 seconds. Push the "Calibrate" button again. "CAL2" will
appear briefly on the display.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: terra 340d and flightcom 403mc |
dear listers
i'm doing the instrument panel , cursing , head scratching , cross eyed,
thousands of dollars, radio shack spending , thing. when i was looking for a
terra 250 d audio panel there were no more available, i had to settle for a
340 d. the differance is the 350d has built in intercom and the 340 d
doesn't. now i'm trying to wire the flightcom 403mc to the terra 340 d. the
diagram with the intercom worked very well for the head phone and mic sets,
however it is showing wiring going to the aircraft radio, in my case a terra
760d. but i thought it should go to the audio panel? in my case terra 340 d.
does anyone on the list have this combo, or know the proper way to connect
the intercom? to the com 1 or audio panel? that is my question. any chance of
a pin out?
thanks
scott
tampa rv6a
doing alot of stareing and very little work.
my brain hurts now, me go to bed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Smart Level Calibration |
Mike:
Here you go:
To calibrate: place SmartTool on a flat surface. Wait 10 secs. Push and
hold the CALIBRATE button for 2 seconds. CAL1 will appear briefly on the
display. Rotate SmartTool end-for-end. Wait 10 secs. Push the CALIBRATE
button again. CAL2 will appear briefly on the display. SmartTool has now
been calibrated for level.
Repeat these steps for plumb if you need to calibrate for plumb.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hours TT
O-320, Hartzell C/S
RV-6, Fuselage
>
> Does anybody out there have the instructions on how to calibrate a smart
> level>
> Mike Nellis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tire & brake wear |
That message put an absolute huge amount of digital garbage on the
net...what was it meant to be?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott" <scottaspencer(at)att.net> |
Speaking of calibration, does anyone know how to calibrate a torque wrench?
Thanks
Scott
RV9-A Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
If you really want a IO-540 go with a plane like the f1 rocket that was
designed for it. I know these are experimental planes, but better to be safe
then sorry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nick Nafsinger" <rvator(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Nebraska builders? |
Just trying to find any active builders / pilots in the Lincoln NE. area.
I'm relatively new to the area (6 months) and am FINALLY financially able to
start -6, now I'm looking for others in the area.
Thanks much!
Nick
rvator(at)alltel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nick Nafsinger" <rvator(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Nebraska builders? |
Just trying to find any active builders / pilots in the Lincoln NE. area.
I'm relatively new to the area (6 months) and am FINALLY financially able to
start -6, now I'm looking for others in the area.
Thanks much!
Nick
rvator(at)alltel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fr8dawg8(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Tempo spray can chromate |
Has anyone used Tempo chromate in spray can to do their RV and how many of
them did it take to prime the inside? Kelly Wilson RV-9 empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Tempo spray can chromate |
In a message dated 11/19/00 10:40:15 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Fr8dawg8(at)AOL.COM writes:
> Has anyone used Tempo chromate in spray can to do their RV and how many of
> them did it take to prime the inside? Kelly Wilson RV-9 empennage
Kelly,
I used it for miscellaneous internal stuff that will never see finish paint.
It would take a LOT of spray cans to prime the whole interior of an RV.
Still, it is very convenient. Why don't you buy 4- 5 cans and do the
empennage (I bet it takes more if you're like most of us amateur painters who
think "more is better") then estimate how many cans the rest of the project
would take?
If you're gonna make a bulk buy now, I'd get 25 or so cans. Here's how I
figure:
Factory coverage specification on tempo zinc chromate is 30 sf/can, but let's
call it 25 sf/can, for practical sake.
The wings are 110 sf. Multiply this by 3 to count the inside of the top
skins (110 sf), bottom skins (110 sf), ribs, etc. Total square footage: 330
Empennage: 1/3 of wings: 110 sf.
Fuselage: 200 sf.
Total: 640 sf. 640 sf divided by 25 sf/can = 25+ cans.
You can subtract a few cans for areas (cockpit interior, etc) where you
probably want to use something more durable.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
Listers,
Time to paint the wings. Regarding the gas caps:
1) Just leave them in place and paint right over them knowing that a small
bit of paint will get in the gap but not past the gasket. (this can be
cleaned off later, or the gaskets replaced)
2) Mask off the hole, mask the gas cap sides, and paint them both but
separately.
3) Mask the hole, polish the top of the gas cap.
4) Some other option I'm not thinking of?
5) Any tricks for masking the hole?
All experience and opinions welcome.
Thanks!
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, painting
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Tilt-up vs slider RV-6 canopy |
> . If you follow the plans for the tilt-up exactly, there will be structural
> limitations on where you can place items on your instrument panel.
OTOH, it is possible to remove the tip-up panel quite easily... it's
held in by 6 screws, accessible from inside the cockpit.
I believe that, unless you modify the panel construction, you need to
crawl round upside down to get at the back of a slider's panel.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Paint gas caps? |
In a message dated 11/19/00 11:44:34 PM Eastern Standard Time, randy@rv-8.com
writes:
> 4) Some other option I'm not thinking of?
Here's one:
Step 1: Put the gas caps on.
Step 2: Lay masking tape over the caps and onto the surrounding skin.
Step 3: Use an X-acto knife to cut off the tape extends beyond the gas caps
(the knife should just fit between the cap and the surrounding ring).
Step 4: Peel the tape off of the wing, leaving the tape on the gas caps.
Step 5: Spray
Step 6 (optional): Curse while watching helplessly as the expensive paint
runs, sags, collects bugs, or suffers some other calamity.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Taxing in a tailwind |
>He would taxi with his arm held out in the wind
>stream and palm held vertically--if he felt the wind on the front or
>back of his hand, he would position the stick accordingly, no matter
>what the wind sock showed.
>FWIW, for the prop wash doubters, with my brakes locked, I can raise and
>lower my tail wheel with just the throttle on a no wind day.
Right; so can I, in both the -4 and the Cub. After flying formation in the
Cubs, we would taxi in, tail up, in formation, stop tail up, pointing at
the crowd, "nod" using the elevator, and then let the tail down. But not at
idle. And not at normal taxi speeds, unless I'm in soft stuff or going up
hill. A steep hill.
OK, lets think about this a second. Use your visual eye, the one you have
to use while looking at blueprints. If the wind is from behind you, and is
blowing 20 knots, stick needs to be FORWARD, putting the elevator DOWN so
the wind can push the surface down, i.e., keep the tail down. If the
elevator is up, the wind may be able to push the tail up (lift it up). See
that? And, your idle or taxi propwash is going to be pushed in the
direction the wind is blowing: away from the tail surface. If you are
taxiing faster than 20 knots in that wind, maybe you will have a different
situation. But us smart RV pilots are not going to be doing that.
Head on up to Casper, Wyoming and hang out for a while. It pretty soon
becomes obvious what one needs to be doing with the stick when on the ground.
I like the idea of putting your hand out there: that accounts for the
effect of the wind and the propwash. Unless you have your flying gloves on.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint gas caps? |
Randy, I personally like the look of an unpainted fuel cap. I think as
often as they'll be taken off you'd have a tough time keeping them looking
good if you paint them. I had mine engraved by Steve Davis and I will be
embossing the engraving so it stands out. You can do this in any color you
like by using a crayon to fill in the lettering. Take a look at this
picture on my web site for an example and contrast between the two styles.
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/images/DCP01408.JPG
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2000 11:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: Paint gas caps?
>
> Listers,
>
> Time to paint the wings. Regarding the gas caps:
>
> 1) Just leave them in place and paint right over them knowing that a small
> bit of paint will get in the gap but not past the gasket. (this can be
> cleaned off later, or the gaskets replaced)
>
> 2) Mask off the hole, mask the gas cap sides, and paint them both but
> separately.
>
> 3) Mask the hole, polish the top of the gas cap.
>
> 4) Some other option I'm not thinking of?
>
> 5) Any tricks for masking the hole?
>
> All experience and opinions welcome.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, #80500, painting
> www.rv-8.com
> Home Wing VAF
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tempo spray can chromate |
Hi,
I tried to use the Tempo zinc oxide primer for my RV-4. I chose the
spray can because I did not want to be troubled with the mixing of the two
part primers. The paint itself works well, but I continually had problems
with the can clogging up before 1/3 of the paint was used. I tried changing
spray valves, shaking the can more thoroughly before spraying, heating the
can mildly with a heat gun; nothing worked. I attempted to contact Tempo
several times but got no response. By the time I was done with one wing I
stopped buying the stuff.
I now use a spray finish from Rustoleum that I like very much. It is
called Rustoleum "Hard Hat" and is available at Home Depot here in Los
Angeles. It creates a very hard, slightly glossy finish and has held up
well (I'm six years into my project). For the large skins I used the System
Three primer. Although this is a two part primer it is thinned with water
and rubbing alcohol. I used this because I didn't like the idea of all the
toxic fumes I would be exposed to (even with a respirator) with Veriprime,
etc. I actually used a roller to apply this primer on the wing and fuselage
skins. It works very well and there is no overspray. The hardest part is
deciding how much to mix up.
Hope this helps.
Ted Lumpkin
-----Original Message-----
From: Fr8dawg8(at)AOL.COM <Fr8dawg8(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Sunday, November 19, 2000 8:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: Tempo spray can chromate
>
>Has anyone used Tempo chromate in spray can to do their RV and how many of
>them did it take to prime the inside? Kelly Wilson RV-9 empennage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mills, Trevor R" <MillsTR(at)az1.bp.com> |
| Subject: | Taildragger Taxing |
Some of you requested more info re our disagreement about taxing our pawnee
tug. It all started when our gliding CFI went into print in our newsletter,
here is exactly what was written.
Sadly there are a couple of pilots who believe that when taxing a
taildragger with a tailwind you should do so with the stick relaxed to
neutral or forward.
What a lot of nonsense and a recipe for disaster! You Must.
1. Keep straight
2. Stay off the brakes
3. Have hard up elevator
4. Have some power on
5. Apply power gently
6. Taxi slowly/turn gently/use gentle power applications
All the above = nil prop strike! Head or tail wind.
While this man is very experienced in gliders he is a low time power pilot,
I also only have 400 hours in taildraggers, what he has said is does not sit
well with the way I was trained, but it has been long enough since my
training that I wanted to check with all of you first.
My thoughts are that a relaxed elevator will give you a feel for what is
happening, if you are holding full back stick the first you will know is
that you are heading on to your nose.
Thanks of your help.
Trevor Mills.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Taildragger Taxing |
"Mills, Trevor R" wrote:
>
>
> Some of you requested more info re our disagreement about taxing our pawnee
> tug. It all started when our gliding CFI went into print in our newsletter,
> here is exactly what was written.
>
> Sadly there are a couple of pilots who believe that when taxing a
> taildragger with a tailwind you should do so with the stick relaxed to
> neutral or forward.
> What a lot of nonsense and a recipe for disaster! You Must.
>
> 1. Keep straight
> 2. Stay off the brakes
> 3. Have hard up elevator
> 4. Have some power on
> 5. Apply power gently
> 6. Taxi slowly/turn gently/use gentle power applications
> All the above = nil prop strike! Head or tail wind.
>
> While this man is very experienced in gliders he is a low time power pilot,
> I also only have 400 hours in taildraggers, what he has said is does not sit
> well with the way I was trained, but it has been long enough since my
> training that I wanted to check with all of you first.
>
> My thoughts are that a relaxed elevator will give you a feel for what is
> happening, if you are holding full back stick the first you will know is
> that you are heading on to your nose.
>
> Thanks of your help.
>
> Trevor Mills.
>
Best way to define this debate is go take a checkride with an
FAA inspector and taxi with a tailwind with the stick back and
see how fast you fail the checkride.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
I'm sory I sure thought that was the one that had the
IO-540 in it. I must have my facts wrong on this one.
Sorry again
Glenn
--- Jerry Springer wrote:
>
>
> glenn williams wrote:
> >
>
> >
> > Norman I saw one rv-8 with an O-540 it was the one
> > that caused the vans service letter for the fuel
> > pickup tube in the tanks. It crashed during
> takeoff.
> > It is my understanding that Van will not even want
> to
> > talk to you about an 0-540 in an 8 I'd go with an
> > IO-360 and your still talking about keeping your
> temps
> > down during climbout etc.etc.
> >
> > Glenn Williams
> >
>
> Glenn you are talking about the one that was taking
> off at
> Independence, Oregon. It quit on takeoff because the
> fuel
> pickup tube had rotated when some work was being
> done on
> the tank. My point is to this that it is not a O-540
> in this airplane it is an IO-360.
>
> Jerry
>
>
>
> support the
> Lists
> moment to
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
| Subject: | Re: Paint gas caps? |
Mike--
Go Boy!! No paint. In fact, take those puppies off, spread on a little
metal polish and buff 'em up. The fuel truck guys have to wear
sunglasses when they refuel my sweet baboo!
do no archive
but feel free to copy and distribute at your work place
>
>
> Randy, I personally like the look of an unpainted fuel cap. I think as
> often as they'll be taken off you'd have a tough time keeping them looking
> good if you paint them. I had mine engraved by Steve Davis and I will be
> embossing the engraving so it stands out. You can do this in any color you
> like by using a crayon to fill in the lettering. Take a look at this
> picture on my web site for an example and contrast between the two styles.
>
> http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/images/DCP01408.JPG
>
> Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
> Plainfield, IL
> http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2000 11:42 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Paint gas caps?
>
> >
> > Listers,
> >
> > Time to paint the wings. Regarding the gas caps:
> >
> > 1) Just leave them in place and paint right over them knowing that a small
> > bit of paint will get in the gap but not past the gasket. (this can be
> > cleaned off later, or the gaskets replaced)
> >
> > 2) Mask off the hole, mask the gas cap sides, and paint them both but
> > separately.
> >
> > 3) Mask the hole, polish the top of the gas cap.
> >
> > 4) Some other option I'm not thinking of?
> >
> > 5) Any tricks for masking the hole?
> >
> > All experience and opinions welcome.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Randy Lervold
> > RV-8, #80500, painting
> > www.rv-8.com
> > Home Wing VAF
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: using oops rivets on horizontal stab |
Nancy,
I dinged the heck out of my VS, so I got help from my wife on the HS. No
dings! She ran the gun; I bucked. Consider having a helper for your next
encounter with the HS. As far as the "oops" rivets, there's no mystery at
all. The shanks are just fatter, so you will need to hold the gun on them a
little longer. I wouldn't increast the air pressure too much. Since they
are really -4 rivets, just gauge the shop head that way.
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A
Wings
>From: "Nancy Jean Burkholder" <nancyb(at)mninter.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: using oops rivets on horizontal stab
>Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2000 08:17:13 -0600
>
>
>I'm having to replace the skin on the horizontal stab due to numerous and
>significant riveting dings. I have a new pre-punched HS615PP skin that I
>test fitted to the skeleton. All holes line up and I'm ready to rivet.
>The
>existing rivet holes in the spars and ribs are oversize after drilling out
>the old rivets and I realize I'll need to use #4 rivets to do the job.
>
>If I use oops rivets I imagine I will redimple the skin for the AN426-AD3
>rivets, then fit the skin to the skeleton and drill the skin and skeleton
>out for the AN470-AD4 rivets. Finally, clean up the skin and rivet away.
>
>Does anyone have any experience doing this? Am I missing anything or are
>there any "oh by the way's" or "gotcha's" doing this? Would it be
>worthwhile to go ahead and use AN426-AD4 rivets instead of oops rivets?
>
>It seems pretty straight forward, but after mucking the first skin I feel a
>bit gunshy on try two. I wanna get it right this time! The other skin is
>riveted fine becuz I got help from an A&P friend who showed me the right
>air
>pressure to use for #3 rivets.
>
> nancy b. "Good people are always so sure they're right."
>
> Barbara Graham's last words
> Executed June 5, 1955 at San Quentin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Taildragger Taxing |
Trevor and Jerry:
-snip-
> > My thoughts are that a relaxed elevator will give you a feel for what is
> > happening, if you are holding full back stick the first you will know is
> > that you are heading on to your nose.
-snip-
Jerry's reply-----
> Best way to define this debate is go take a checkride with an
> FAA inspector and taxi with a tailwind with the stick back and
> see how fast you fail the checkride.
I believe in the KISS method, especially when a sudden gust, etc., can make
things happen quickly. This means that the elevator should always deflect
the wind downward on the wheel. BTW the wind is not always "on the tail" or
"on the nose". When the tail wind slides a little over your left shoulder
you may want to put your left elevator down as well, especially if you are
negotiating a little turning action at the same time. I don't think that
the prop wind should be a factor. IMHO you should be very light on the power
and brakes at all times, excepting runnup and takeoff.
Ernest Kells
RV-9A - Building Wings, Planning: O-235 Wood Prop
Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Paint Fill on Engraved Gas Caps |
Listers
The best way to fill my engraving is as follows, use a tooth pick or paint
brush, I use my finger! but get the paint in the letters once the paint is
covering the face take a used phone book (get rid of the cover and use the
pages) wipe the face across the pages removing the paint, be sure it filled
all letters if not repeat process, let dry. When it dries take the same phone
book, get a clean page pour thinner on the pages spread it on the pages till
it soaks in, take the face of the cap and wipe across the page like before
and repeat until face is clean, clean edges with a soft cloth and you are
done.
Steve Davis
The Panel Pilot
http://members.aol.com/panelcut
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | -6 Slider: Vertical or flush? |
Still early in my sliding canopy challenge and have hit a small snag.
Seems I can have either the roll bar vertical (that is, at right angles
to the cockpit rails) _or_ I can make the back end of the canopy flush
with the skin. But not both.
With the roll bar normal to the rails, when I close the canopy frame I
have a 3/16-inch gap at the top, middle of the roll bar. I can close
this gap with the locking mechanism, but am unsure what ramifications
that would have when the plexi is fitted.
Before I adjusted the rear track curve to bring the rear of the frame
down so that the plexi will be flush with the top skin, the frame and
roll bar met just fine. Adjusting for flush at the back opened up the
gap at the front.
I'm thinking I could better accomodate a rake at the roll bar than
fitting a too-high rear skirt... but then I haven't BTDT...
What say ye, y'all?
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Tempo spray can chromate |
Where do you buy the "System Three Primer"?
Dennis Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint gas caps? |
>>Listers,
>
>Time to paint the wings. Regarding the gas caps:
>
>1) Just leave them in place and paint right over them knowing that a small
>bit of paint will get in the gap but not past the gasket. (this can be
>cleaned off later, or the gaskets replaced)
>
>2) Mask off the hole, mask the gas cap sides, and paint them both but
>separately.
>
>3) Mask the hole, polish the top of the gas cap.
>
>4) Some other option I'm not thinking of?
>
>5) Any tricks for masking the hole?
>
>All experience and opinions welcome.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Randy Lervold
Randy,
I think George left the caps in the tanks when he painted the leading edge
color on my wings. They came out just fine. The levers have a couple of
tiny chips in the paint now, but I guess that's just gonna happen to them
over time. Probably the best treatment that will wear the best over the
long haul would be to polish and engrave them. If the paint on mine starts
looking really yucky, I'll strip the paint and do this.
Ya 'bout ready to fly yet?
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
150 hours
new tires and brakes feel goooood.
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | Re: -6 Slider: Vertical or flush? |
| From: | "Denis (Bum) Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 11/20/00 7:50, Mike Thompson at grobdriver(at)yahoo.com wrote:
>
> Still early in my sliding canopy challenge and have hit a small snag.
>
> Seems I can have either the roll bar vertical (that is, at right angles
> to the cockpit rails) _or_ I can make the back end of the canopy flush
> with the skin. But not both.
>
> With the roll bar normal to the rails, when I close the canopy frame I
> have a 3/16-inch gap at the top, middle of the roll bar. I can close
> this gap with the locking mechanism, but am unsure what ramifications
> that would have when the plexi is fitted.
> Before I adjusted the rear track curve to bring the rear of the frame
> down so that the plexi will be flush with the top skin, the frame and
> roll bar met just fine. Adjusting for flush at the back opened up the
> gap at the front.
>
> I'm thinking I could better accomodate a rake at the roll bar than
> fitting a too-high rear skirt... but then I haven't BTDT...
>
> What say ye, y'all?
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Canopy
>
>
>
My vote is to shim the roll bar to achieve flush at the rear! Worked great
for me
D Walsh (three winters with no draft on back of neck)
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | Re: Paint gas caps? |
| From: | "Denis (Bum) Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 11/19/00 21:42, Randy Lervold at randy@rv-8.com wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> Time to paint the wings. Regarding the gas caps:
>
> 1) Just leave them in place and paint right over them knowing that a small
> bit of paint will get in the gap but not past the gasket. (this can be
> cleaned off later, or the gaskets replaced)
>
> 2) Mask off the hole, mask the gas cap sides, and paint them both but
> separately.
>
> 3) Mask the hole, polish the top of the gas cap.
>
> 4) Some other option I'm not thinking of?
>
> 5) Any tricks for masking the hole?
>
> All experience and opinions welcome.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, #80500, painting
> www.rv-8.com
> Home Wing VAF
>
>
Good question . Short answer. Don't paint unless you are building for show
instead of go.
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paint gas caps? |
> Randy, I personally like the look of an unpainted fuel cap. I think as
> often as they'll be taken off you'd have a tough time keeping them looking
> good if you paint them. I had mine engraved by Steve Davis and I will be
> embossing the engraving so it stands out. You can do this in any color
you
> like by using a crayon to fill in the lettering. Take a look at this
> picture on my web site for an example and contrast between the two styles.
>
> http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/images/DCP01408.JPG
>
> Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
> Plainfield, IL
> http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
Mike,
I had mine engraved too and have a blue paint stick just waiting to fill the
letters. Everyone seems to be saying to leave them unpainted because they
get so dinged up. Ok, what does one polish or finish them with? How about a
quick coat of clear acrylic spray from a rattle can?
Randy
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tempo spray can chromate |
I use the tempo, and as long as I turn the can upside down and spray for a
second after each time using it.....I can use up the entire can without tip
problems. Just another datapoint for you to consider.
Bill
-4 wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2000 4:20 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tempo spray can chromate
>
> Hi,
>
> I tried to use the Tempo zinc oxide primer for my RV-4. I chose the
> spray can because I did not want to be troubled with the mixing of the two
> part primers. The paint itself works well, but I continually had problems
> with the can clogging up before 1/3 of the paint was used. I tried
changing
> spray valves, shaking the can more thoroughly before spraying, heating the
> can mildly with a heat gun; nothing worked. I attempted to contact Tempo
> several times but got no response. By the time I was done with one wing I
> stopped buying the stuff.
> I now use a spray finish from Rustoleum that I like very much. It is
> called Rustoleum "Hard Hat" and is available at Home Depot here in Los
> Angeles. It creates a very hard, slightly glossy finish and has held up
> well (I'm six years into my project). For the large skins I used the
System
> Three primer. Although this is a two part primer it is thinned with water
> and rubbing alcohol. I used this because I didn't like the idea of all
the
> toxic fumes I would be exposed to (even with a respirator) with Veriprime,
> etc. I actually used a roller to apply this primer on the wing and
fuselage
> skins. It works very well and there is no overspray. The hardest part is
> deciding how much to mix up.
> Hope this helps.
>
> Ted Lumpkin
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fr8dawg8(at)AOL.COM <Fr8dawg8(at)AOL.COM>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sunday, November 19, 2000 8:02 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Tempo spray can chromate
>
>
> >
> >Has anyone used Tempo chromate in spray can to do their RV and how many
of
> >them did it take to prime the inside? Kelly Wilson RV-9 empennage
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tempo spray can chromate |
> The paint itself works well, but I continually had problems
>with the can clogging up before 1/3 of the paint was used. I tried changing
>spray valves, shaking the can more thoroughly before spraying, heating the
>can mildly with a heat gun; nothing worked.
Ditto. I have more half-full cans of Tempo hanging around than I have extra
rivets. You look at the can, it has all those airplanes all over it, it is
zinc-chromate and what paint that comes out works well and sticks, but I
don't remember ever having gotten through a whole can. I believe it is the
exit part of the can itself. Or that they don't put enough propellant in
it. Whatever. I have stopped buying it too.
Getting a little spray gun ("touch-up gun") and mixing up the pr***r is not
actually that big a deal. I usually had a big bunch of parts to pr**e at
one time and it was cheaper than all those half-full spray cans. And, not
that it matters, but all the pr**ed parts are pr**ed with the same color
paint and look like they all belong to the same airplane. Besides, if you
are pr***ing the innards of your airplane, it is unnecessary to have "full
strength" pr***r on internal parts. Diluted with MEK puts on a protective
coat and weighs less than full strength pr***r.
IMHO, my 0.02FF.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Smart Level Calibration |
In a message dated 11/19/00 12:48:22 PM Pacific Standard Time,
mnellis(at)emailusa.net writes:
<< Does anybody out there have the instructions on how to calibrate a smart
level? >>
Mike: If yours is like mine it has two buttons, one labeled ON/Off and
other labeled reset or cal. Turn the level on, find a reasonably level and
smooth even surface, set the level on it and wait 10 seconds for the level to
stabilize then press the reset/cal button. Turn the level end for end and
place it in exactly the same position but reversed, then wait 10 seconds
again and press the reset/cal button. That's it. You should do the same
routine with a vertical surface. Hope this helps. I can get mine to read
within 0.1 degree and sometimes 0/0 if I really fuss with it awhile.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, Almost finished with the canopy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tempo spray can chromate |
KostaLewis wrote:
>
> > The paint itself works well, but I continually had problems
> >with the can clogging up before 1/3 of the paint was used. I tried changing
> >spray valves, shaking the can more thoroughly before spraying, heating the
> >can mildly with a heat gun; nothing worked.
>
> Ditto. I have more half-full cans of Tempo hanging around than I have extra
> rivets. You look at the can, it has all those airplanes all over it, it is
> zinc-chromate and what paint that comes out works well and sticks, but I
> don't remember ever having gotten through a whole can. I believe it is the
> exit part of the can itself. Or that they don't put enough propellant in
> it. Whatever. I have stopped buying it too.
>
> Getting a little spray gun ("touch-up gun") and mixing up the pr***r is not
> actually that big a deal. I usually had a big bunch of parts to pr**e at
> one time and it was cheaper than all those half-full spray cans. And, not
> that it matters, but all the pr**ed parts are pr**ed with the same color
> paint and look like they all belong to the same airplane. Besides, if you
> are pr***ing the innards of your airplane, it is unnecessary to have "full
> strength" pr***r on internal parts. Diluted with MEK puts on a protective
> coat and weighs less than full strength pr***r.
>
> IMHO, my 0.02FF.
>
> Michael
FWIW, I also use the Tempo product and have never yet failed to finish a can.
I
use a pistol grip device (I think it's called a Can Gun) on the spray can, which
makes holding the button all the way down much, much easier. Whether or not this
is what has made the difference for me in fully emptying my cans I can't say, but
it might be... :-)
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 N118KB (reserved)
assorted endless cockpit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
They don't show the drips, runs and bugs on the planes that make the
magazines... this is the same complex that drives women to unrealistically
thin figures. Reality and the popular images presented by the media are
different.
As for the bugs, I was successful plucking some of them out of the paint
with tweezers. Be careful, it could make things worse if you aren't really
steady.
...my 2 cents
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ 55-hrs
Pearland, Texas
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy Lervold [mailto:randy@rv-8.com]
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2000 9:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint gas caps?
> Step 6 (optional): Curse while watching helplessly as the expensive paint
> runs, sags, collects bugs, or suffers some other calamity.
Aint that the truth! I just shot my canopy skirt last night. As soon as I
was finished with the 2nd (of 3) coat and set the gun down I turned around
and a bug had embedded himself right in the center of it. Of course he
didn't just land and get stuck, he had to move around trying to escape and
make a bigger mess. How inconsiderate.
Anyway, I'm convinced there's just no way to paint one of these things
without the occasional blemish. As Sam Buchanan and many others have pointed
out, it can always be sanded & buffed later.
Randy Lervold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Smart Level Calibration |
Harry,
Mine has the "reset" button. Your information is exactly what I needed.
Thanks for the help.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: <HCRV6(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2000 12:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Smart Level Calibration
>
> In a message dated 11/19/00 12:48:22 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> mnellis(at)emailusa.net writes:
>
> << Does anybody out there have the instructions on how to calibrate a
smart
> level? >>
>
> Mike: If yours is like mine it has two buttons, one labeled ON/Off and
> other labeled reset or cal. Turn the level on, find a reasonably level
and
> smooth even surface, set the level on it and wait 10 seconds for the level
to
> stabilize then press the reset/cal button. Turn the level end for end and
> place it in exactly the same position but reversed, then wait 10 seconds
> again and press the reset/cal button. That's it. You should do the same
> routine with a vertical surface. Hope this helps. I can get mine to read
> within 0.1 degree and sometimes 0/0 if I really fuss with it awhile.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, Almost finished with the canopy.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tempo spray can chromate |
I bought my paint direct from the factory in Washington state. Their
web site is: http://www.systemthree.com/index.html. It's also available
from Aircraft Spruce.
Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: DThomas773(at)AOL.COM <DThomas773(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Monday, November 20, 2000 7:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tempo spray can chromate
>
>Where do you buy the "System Three Primer"?
>Dennis Thomas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tempo spray can chromate |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Tempo spray can chromate
Thread-Index: AcBTIGVOScdTAYBwTfWkBNiyVVOTYQAAC9JA
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Are you leaving your cans out in the shop, and does the temperature drop
below zero? I found that on some new cans I had of zinc chromate that
if the can was left in the garage in the wintertime, I'd get a little
use out of it before it clogged up. I never had the problem if I kept
the cans stored inside at room temperature...
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 56 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: -6 Slider: Vertical or flush? |
In a message dated 11/20/00 6:51:53 AM Pacific Standard Time,
grobdriver(at)yahoo.com writes:
<< Seems I can have either the roll bar vertical (that is, at right angles to
the cockpit rails) _or_ I can make the back end of the canopy flush with the
skin. But not both. >>
Mike: I just finished fitting the rear skirts on my -6 slider so I'll throw
in my $0.00002 cents worth. First of all I'm convinced that no two of the
canopy frames are the same so everyone will have the chance to figure out a
way to fit theirs. In my case the left and right side rear bows were enough
different that there was no way to get a good match with the aft top skin
short of cutting the frame and rewelding it, which I decided against. I made
the roll bar vertical per the plans and found that I could get the right rear
bow to come very close to aligning with the skin but the left side was about
1/2 inch high in the middle no matter what I tried. I briefly considered
using fiberglass for the rear skirts but I hate the stuff. Fortunately a
friend recently acquired a metal shrinker/stretcher which he offered to let
me try on the rear skirts. It took one throw away skirt to get the hang of
using the shrinker to put a nice compound curve in the skirts, but the next
two came out perfect and they now fit like the proverbial glove. I will have
to use some primer/surfacer to cover the fine scratches left by the shrinker
jaws but most of the marks can be sanded out with 320 grit. Don't know
whether this will help or not but I thought I would share it.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Tempo spray can chromate |
My cans of Tempo frequently clogged. I think that it is paint that just has
to be all shook up in the worst way before you spray it. Perhaps storing it
in a cold shop also hurt.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tempo spray can chromate |
11/20/2000 02:53:04 PM
Try storing all the rattle cans inside & storing the nozzles in a small jar
of Acetone or MEK. I've never had a cloged nozzle with this old trick.
Holding the can upsidedown does clear the nozzle but it also evacuates the
propellent and uses the paint up.
"Bob Japundza" (at)matronics.com on 11/20/2000
01:38:49 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RE: RV-List: Tempo spray can chromate
Are you leaving your cans out in the shop, and does the temperature drop
below zero? I found that on some new cans I had of zinc chromate that
if the can was left in the garage in the wintertime, I'd get a little
use out of it before it clogged up. I never had the problem if I kept
the cans stored inside at room temperature...
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 56 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
Put the wrench on a bolt held in your vice, with the handle level. Hang a known
weight (or use a good spring scale) a specific distance from the wrench pivot
point.
Example: a 2-pound weight 12 inches out on the handle would be 24 inch-pounds.
Finn
Scott wrote:
>
> Speaking of calibration, does anyone know how to calibrate a torque wrench?
>
> Thanks
> Scott
> RV9-A Emp
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Winters <dwinters(at)acraline.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin 195 Question |
Is there any interest on this list for a tray to mount the 195 or 295 in? I
could draw up the plans, and/or have a few sets made if there's enough
interest. Problem is, I don't have said unit to work from. Someone would
have to send a unit to me, or take good photos, and sketch the pertinent
dimensions.
Don Winters
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com [mailto:Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com]
Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2000 12:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 195 Question
Dave: Sorry it's taken me so long to get back to you on this one. I just
spent the last two weeks getting a pancreas transplant but I'm back on line
now.
There are compelling arguments to be had for both ways to mount the 195.
The easy access and removal of the unit by using any number of quick
disconnect methods from Velcro to a quick release locking mount gives you
the ability to take it home and study, download new maps, and use in your
trip planning. I even used to use mine to go into the simulation mode and
fly my intended route on the simulator to become more familiar with the
flight path before starting a long trip. The more permanent mount method
where you actually screw the unit into the panel is more for the serious
user who demands a lot from his unit. I intend to use the on board timers
for fuel planning, do a lot of programming while in flight and use the E6B
onboard for preflight before run-up. There is a ton you can do with that
big screen once you become more familiar with all the software. I found
quickly that I needed a more permanent mount if I was to do any amount of
button pushing. Other wise I found the unit giving way with each button
push and being pushed around the panel. I guess it all depends on how
strong and stable your mount is.
As for my mounting technique, I ended up opening up the unit by just
removing the screws on the back and unplugging a cable or two to completely
separate the front half from the back half. This way I could easily trace
the front of the unit right on to the panel. I purposely made the hole
large enough so that I could reassemble the unit back to it's original
water tightness and mount it after the fact by making a strong bracket out
of 063 that mounted to the Garman supplied bracket. I then attached my
mounting bracket directly to the panel in four places. This provided me
with a really solid mount that doesn't even wiggle when I press all the
buttons. You might also want to check out Garman's accessory catalog and
get the wiring harness that allows you to plug into all the functionality
for things like autopilot hook ups, power, etc.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( taking some time off while I recoup )
O-360 Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint gas caps? |
I had this happen quite a few times. I found that if you *carefully* use a
pair of needle-sharp tweezers you can get those guys out real easily without
making a mess. Then the paint tends to "flow" into the divot and it ends up
being fine when dry.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A, 0320-D1a (160hp)
Sensenich 70x78, N427EM, 400hrs.
ebundy(at)micron.net
> > Step 6 (optional): Curse while watching helplessly as the expensive
paint
> > runs, sags, collects bugs, or suffers some other calamity.
>
> Aint that the truth! I just shot my canopy skirt last night. As soon as I
> was finished with the 2nd (of 3) coat and set the gun down I turned around
> and a bug had embedded himself right in the center of it. Of course he
> didn't just land and get stuck, he had to move around trying to escape and
> make a bigger mess. How inconsiderate.
>
> Anyway, I'm convinced there's just no way to paint one of these things
> without the occasional blemish. As Sam Buchanan and many others have
pointed
> out, it can always be sanded & buffed later.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
I still can't access Aeroelectric connection. I have talked to my ISP and
they are working on it. Does anyone know if Bob is back to taking orders on
the web again??
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave" <dhrycauk(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tempo spray can chromate |
Hi Kelly;
I have been using Tempo chromate paint on my -8, it works just fine.
Dave Hrycauk
RV-8 Wings
Fuselage coming....
http://www.telusplanet.net/public/dhrycauk/index.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fr8dawg8(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2000 8:36 PM
Subject: RV-List: Tempo spray can chromate
>
> Has anyone used Tempo chromate in spray can to do their RV and how many of
> them did it take to prime the inside? Kelly Wilson RV-9 empennage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave" <dhrycauk(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tempo spray can chromate |
I figure I've used 20 cans to date and I havn't primed the wing skins
yet.... I don't think its cheaper but the convienience of the rattle can is
what I like.
Dave Hrycauk
RV-8 Wings
fuselage coming...
http://www.telusplanet.net/public/dhrycauk/index.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: <KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2000 8:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tempo spray can chromate
>
> In a message dated 11/19/00 10:40:15 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> Fr8dawg8(at)AOL.COM writes:
>
> > Has anyone used Tempo chromate in spray can to do their RV and how many
of
> > them did it take to prime the inside? Kelly Wilson RV-9 empennage
>
> Kelly,
>
> I used it for miscellaneous internal stuff that will never see finish
paint.
> It would take a LOT of spray cans to prime the whole interior of an RV.
> Still, it is very convenient. Why don't you buy 4- 5 cans and do the
> empennage (I bet it takes more if you're like most of us amateur painters
who
> think "more is better") then estimate how many cans the rest of the
project
> would take?
>
> If you're gonna make a bulk buy now, I'd get 25 or so cans. Here's how I
> figure:
>
> Factory coverage specification on tempo zinc chromate is 30 sf/can, but
let's
> call it 25 sf/can, for practical sake.
>
> The wings are 110 sf. Multiply this by 3 to count the inside of the top
> skins (110 sf), bottom skins (110 sf), ribs, etc. Total square footage:
330
>
> Empennage: 1/3 of wings: 110 sf.
>
> Fuselage: 200 sf.
>
> Total: 640 sf. 640 sf divided by 25 sf/can = 25+ cans.
>
> You can subtract a few cans for areas (cockpit interior, etc) where you
> probably want to use something more durable.
>
> Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
> RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Can someone tell me where I can find a how to install camlocs for the
complete klutz? Or perhaps suggest a similar latching mechanism that is
very small. I need to secure a small interior hinged panel and I need to
use some very small fasteners. Any suggestions?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Broste" <spiritmoves(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List: What Listers Are Saying... |
Matt,
I think what you're doing is great for those of us flying and building Kolb
aircraft. You're probably saving Kolb a full time employee in tech support
just by providing the communication between builders. I know I have had a
half dozen questions answered here on the list and saved Kolb support a few
phone calls. You should forward this letter to Kolb, maybe they'd ante up,
too. It would be great PR for the TN Kolb a/c. Thanks a bunch, Matt!
Ken Broste
Building a Firestar
Tucson, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2000 10:33 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: What Listers Are Saying...
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> During this year's List Fund Raiser I have been receiving a number of
> very nice comments from members regarding what the Lists mean to them.
> I'm sure most everyone can echo one or more of the thoughts expressed
> below. Won't you take a moment to make a Contribution to support the
> continued operation and improvment of your Lists?
>
> A special 'thank you' to everyone that has made a contribution so far
> and for all of the wonderful and supportive comments I've received!
>
>
> To make a contribution with a credit card over an SSL Secure Web Site,
> please go to the following URL:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> or, to make a contribution with a person check, please mail it to:
>
> Matronics
> c/o Matt Dralle
> PO Box 347
> Livermore, CA 94551
>
>
> Thank you!!
>
> Matt Dralle
> Email List Admin.
>
>
> ===================== Comments From List Members
=======================
>
>
> * You helped make this dream a reality... -Terry C.
>
> * Thanks for a wonderful resource! -Rick J.
>
> * Thanks for providing a quality product. -Bill C.
>
> * Have found [the List] invaluable for education while building... -Rick
H.
>
>
> * I learn so much from the List! -Robert R.
>
> * [The List] is better than any aviation magazines I subscribe
o. -Roger H.
>
> * I enjoy the pages and find them very helpful. -Noel G.
>
> * The "List" is a great place to both receive and exten help and ideas
for
> building and making flying safer. -Jack B.
>
>
> * The discussions are very helpful. -James B.
>
> * ...I believe this List will be a better value than the
ewsletter. -Roger T.
>
> * [The List] has helped me with the construction of my RV-9. -Marty S.
>
> * VERY good reading. Excellent entertainment value. -Jerry I.
>
>
> * [The List] has saved me many hour on wild goose chases. -Billy W.
>
> * Thanks for keeping my passion for flying as piqued as ever. -Terry W.
>
> * Keep up the nice work. -Daniel H.
>
> * Thanks for all the effort on behalf of Sport Aviation! -Elbie M.
>
>
> * ...Great information source! -Richard W.
>
> * ...Thanks for your help and patience with a very difficult
ask. -Louis W.
>
> * [The List] has been a great asset. -Edward C.
>
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>
>
> * Thanks for the List to let up share our passion. -Brian A.
>
> * ...This List is good stuff. -Russ D.
>
> * ...The single most helpful resource I've come across in
uilding. -Craig P.
>
> * ...Enjoy [the List] a lot. -John H.
>
>
> * The List is a most important tool to help building. -Brad R.
>
> * ...Really found the List to be great! -Geoff T.
>
> * Excellent contribution to the aviation community. -Larry B.
>
> * Great source of information... -William G.
>
>
> * The Lists ... make building a real hoot! -Jeff O.
>
> * The List has been invaluable. -Matt P.
>
> * Thanks for letting me use the site. It's great! -Larry M.
>
> * ...This List has been very helpful. -Larry H.
>
>
> * Greatest support ever for the builders and I have met many
riends. -Fred H.
>
> * ...I love this List and have met many new friends... -Tom E.
>
> * Love both the List and the Search Engine. -Roy G.
>
>
> ===================== Comments From List Members
=======================
>
>
> --
>
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
> Great minds discuss ideas,
> Average minds discuss events,
> Small minds discuss people...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Tempo spray can chromate |
>> I figure I've used 20 cans to date and I havn't primed the wing skins
yet.... I don't think its cheaper but the convienience of the rattle can is
what I like. <<
Dave: I don't really see the big convenience in using the rattle cans. I
use the Dupont 2-part epoxy primer, exclusively. Once you develop the
"knack" you can paint several skins quickly, effectively and with a light
even coat. I "plan ahead" a lot. When I get close to a breakpoint I make a
small batch (paint, activator and fast thinner) in baby food jars for 3 days
work - which is the shelf life when mixed. My touch-up sprayer holds up to
one jar. Any painting is just a few minutes, including cleanup. I waste
very little (expensive) paint.
Although I don't use the rattle can I could understand their use for small
fixtures, angles, etc. (eg.: things the size of your hand), or for touchup.
A lot less cans, as well. Happy overbuilding.
Ernest Kells
RV-9A - Building Wings, Planning: O-235 Wood Prop
Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>
> Hi Dave,
>
> I have a VM1000 installed with an O-360 fuel injected engine in
my
> RV4. The fuel sensor can actually be installed anywhere in the system
>
> Dave, this absolutely wrong. I have installed at least 10 of the
systems
and know for a fact that flow tranducer on fuel injected engines has to
go
Between the fuel servo and the fuel distributor. This is detailed well in
the manual.This is not only true for vision, but for any fuel flow
installed
on
either experimental or certified.Terry
>
>
In my opinion it is only partially wrong.
The Yellow prototype RV-8A with the IO-360 engine (N58VA) has a flow
scan fuel flow transducer mounted in the cockpit area (after the filter
and boost pump) and the instrument is accurate within 1/2 gal after 3
hours of flying (Pretty good I'd say).
The instrument is the Electronics International fuel flow computer which
has an adjustable K factor. This allows for fine tuning adjustments.
The VM-1000 has no K factor adjustment which does make the transducer
sensitive to the installed location. In fact sometimes it seems no
matter how you do the installation you can't get accurate readings. I
have always felt that this was a major design error on the part of Vision
Microsystems.
Bottom line...transducer between servo and flow divider is not always
necessary. All we are really doing is measuring fuel that passes through
the transducer. It doesn't matter were you do this as long as the
instrument can be set up to read the signals accurately.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroelectric |
(snipped)
>
> I still can't access Aeroelectric connection. I have talked to my ISP and
> they are working on it. Does anyone know if Bob is back to taking orders
on
> the web again??
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok
Electric Bob signed off this list a couple weeks ago.
Too many posts and other lists to monitor...over 200 per day.
Also been working on new computer system and getting his site and business
organized....just too much going on.
Try his address or better yet, a phone call....he will do his best to help
as always.
Austin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
> Can someone tell me where I can find a how to install camlocs for the
> complete klutz? Or perhaps suggest a similar latching mechanism that is
> very small. I need to secure a small interior hinged panel and I need to
> use some very small fasteners. Any suggestions?
Have you got one at your shop? They are very simple. It is the holding ring
that goes on the stud that makes it work properly. If you can install a
platenut then you can install a camlock........Norman.........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroelectric |
Jerry, try using http://aeroelectric.com without the WWW. It works fine
for me.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
> I still can't access Aeroelectric connection. I have talked to my ISP and
> they are working on it. Does anyone know if Bob is back to taking orders
on
> the web again??
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok
> -6 fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 11/19/2000 5:31:51 PM Pacific Standard Time,
CW9371(at)AOL.COM writes:
>
> If you really want a IO-540 go with a plane like the f1 rocket that was
> designed for it. I know these are experimental planes, but better to be
> safe
> then sorry
>
Hi All,
The four inch stretch in the Harmon Rocket and F1 Rocket fuselage was added
to offset the forward weight of a LIGHT parallel valve IO-540.
The 4" fuselage stretch isn't supposed to be enough for the heavier angle
valve (and wide deck?) IO-540's.
Are there any F-1 Rockets flying yet?
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
________________________________________________________________________________
>>Can someone tell me where I can find a how to install camlocs for the
complete klutz? Or perhaps suggest a similar latching mechanism that is
very small. I need to secure a small interior hinged panel and I need to
use some very small fasteners. Any suggestions?<<
The Skybolt catalog is a must... www.skybolt.com
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
> A certain company (who should probably remain nameless) says that the
> transducer goes between the engine driven pump and the servo, unless the
> system uses a vapor return line, then it goes between the servo and the
> flow divider.
> Dave Bristol RV6 injected 0-360, 41 hours
>
> > Hi Dave,
> >
> > I have a VM1000 installed with an O-360 fuel injected engine in
> my
> > RV4. The fuel sensor can actually be installed anywhere in the system
> >
> > Dave, this absolutely wrong. I have installed at least 10 of the
> systems and know for a fact that flow tranducer on fuel injected engines
> has to
> go Between the fuel servo and the fuel distributor. This is detailed well
> in
> the manual.This is not only true for vision, but for any fuel flow
> installed on
> either experimental or certified.Terry
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 11/20/2000 10:25:53 PM Central Standard Time,
LeastDrag93066(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< Hi All,
The four inch stretch in the Harmon Rocket and F1 Rocket fuselage was added
to offset the forward weight of a LIGHT parallel valve IO-540.
The 4" fuselage stretch isn't supposed to be enough for the heavier angle
valve (and wide deck?) IO-540's.
Are there any F-1 Rockets flying yet?
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
>>
There is 1 f1 flying. Jimmy Cashs plane is done or should be soon. The F1
will isnt designed for the angle valve engines. However you can turn it into
a 1 seat plane like the exxon tiger plane of bruce bohannon that was build
and designed by Mark Fredricks and then you can use a angle valve. But how
much power do u really need.
My engine is 330 hp and isnt a angle valve. Also there are more changes to
the F1 then just the fuselage to use the IO-540 engine.
Chris wilcox
F1 rocket kit 000
expected completetion date Airventure 2001
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 11/20/2000 10:25:53 PM Central Standard Time,
LeastDrag93066(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< Hi All,
The four inch stretch in the Harmon Rocket and F1 Rocket fuselage was added
to offset the forward weight of a LIGHT parallel valve IO-540.
The 4" fuselage stretch isn't supposed to be enough for the heavier angle
valve (and wide deck?) IO-540's.
Are there any F-1 Rockets flying yet?
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: upper seat back brace adjustment |
>
>Seems that I remember an RV-6 builder saying that he never used the 2
>forward positions of the upper seat back brace and just let the seatback
>rest all the way against the bulkhead. I also noticed a lot of scratches in
>the paint in this area on various RV's where the hinged upper seatback brace
>contacts the top of the bulkhead. Has anyone just permanently fixed the
>upper seatback? (I checked the archives but came up empty.)
Chris,
I put UMHW tape on the cross brace vertical where the seat backs rest. For
my seat,
I don't have the hinged adjustment brace installed. We've found that my
wife, Sue,
prefers her seat back to be more upright, so that seat has the adjustment
brace.
Regards,
Chris Good, http://www.slinger.net/rv-6a/
West Bend, WI
RV6A-QB N86CG, flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nancy Jean Burkholder" <nancyb(at)mninter.net> |
| Subject: | Van's recommendation, oops rivets |
I talked with Van's yesterday regarding the use of oops rivets on the
replacement skin for my RV-6A horizontal stab. Van's suggested that if the
existing rivet holes aren't "too" overlarge then rerivet with #3 rivets.
Their definition of "too" is that the shop head covers the entire hole. If
any part of the hole is exposed then use an oops rivet. They don't
recommend using oops rivets for the entire stab due to the small head size.
Riveting with flush #4 rivetw would also be acceptable.
This advice is essentially what folks here have shared. I will proceed with
riveting using #3 rivets and see how that goes. However, before I can
commence work I need to get over my cold. Even the thought of going out
into my unheated shop (the temp 3F this morning) sends shivers though me.
I want to thank folks for helping me with this step.
nancy b. "Good people are always so sure they're right."
Barbara Graham's last words
Executed June 5, 1955 at San Quentin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | I need a little heat... |
The Canadians have sent us Midwesterners some of their cold air (thanks
anyway, guys, but where were you in August?). I would like to know the best
method for rapidly removing the chill from my garage so I can primer some
parts. My work area is heated, but not so the rest of the garage, and I
don't want to spray where I will be working. I am looking at some
forced-air propane heaters (Harbor Freight), but I don't know how effective
they will be. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A N143DJ
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | How far is the radio from the compass? |
For those of you who asked. The panel mounted compass on my RV-6A is
located 1.25 inches from the VALCOM radio.
As I asked in my post, I would like to use one of these new (to me) remote
head compasses with a digital readout on the panel. I understand that you
locate the head on a part of the airplane far from electrical and ferrous
interference and experience the bliss of a compass that is more or less
unaffected by the rest of the plane.
I understand that you need to replace the battery once a year. I worry,
though that the inspector will say that the solid state, battery powered
thing is not a compass and refuse to issue an airworthiness certificate.
Any of you been through this and pass with such a compass?
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airbatix(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: How far is the radio from the compass? |
Beware the "cheap" digital compasses...I called the manufacturer of one and
he was firm on not using in an airplane because they are not designed for the
constant pitch, yaw, and roll movements of aircraft...it has to do with the
orientation of their sensors....
I could not find a place in my cockpit (RV-6A) for a mag compass that was
magnetically benign or disturbed by radiated power fields...I ended up using
a remote compass kit from Century Instruments and put the sensor in the tail
and indicator in the panel...results, so far, are excellent with little
errors in any direction...the price is about the same as a vertical card
compass...i am about to get inspected and am hoping it is acceptable based
upon the fact that the FAR states that we need a "magnetic heading indicator"
(i.e., non gyro) and does not dictate powered or non-powered.
by the way...i dont understand how everyone else is finding areas in their
cockpits of RV6's for their compasses...i tried to deguass everything and
shield my power and avionics where i could .... and still could not find a
clean spot....
anyway...will let you know of inspection results
Paul M
RV-6A, N632M, 180 hp, hartzell, ready for inspection
________________________________________________________________________________
11/21/2000 09:38:57 AM
Camlocks 2700 series are the ticket. Skybolt and D&D supply have a catalog
that explain the grip depths and have pictires. Get their catalogs. Skybolt
1-800-223-1963 D&D phone =?
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" (at)matronics.com on 11/20/2000
07:51:46 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Camlocs
Can someone tell me where I can find a how to install camlocs for the
complete klutz? Or perhaps suggest a similar latching mechanism that is
very small. I need to secure a small interior hinged panel and I need to
use some very small fasteners. Any suggestions?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Houg <thoug(at)ATTGLOBAL.NET> |
| Subject: | I need a little heat... |
Jim,
Living and building in Minnesota, I have a little experience here ;). My
workspace is a 1500 sq ft. garage that's fully insulated (for a garage
anyway - not up to standards for housing in this area). I have an overhead
natural gas furnace that's just big enough to maintain warm temperatures
when it's sub-zero outside, but due to the expense, I don't keep it heated
24 hrs a day.
I have a supplemental kerosene "torpedo" heater (155,000 btu) that I use to
quickly bring the air temperature up in the shop. However, my shop is
currently housing several cars, which have quite a bit of thermal mass.
Until I get everything in the garage up to temperature, the shop will
quickly cool off if the heaters are turned off. My strategy for
priming/painting/varnishing has been to pre-heat the shop to bring
everything up to temperature (or warmer) then shut down the heaters
(including pilot lights) and spray away. I also use a blower system fitted
to a styrofoam plug that is friction fit into the opening of the service
door to ventilate during spraying. I just primed all of my empennage parts
last weekend with temperatures around 20 degress outside, but the shop
stayed plenty warm even with the blower pushing all the warm air outside.
As for heaters, I would suggest one of the "torpedo" style heaters for
quick heat. The kerosene ones are a little more portable (no propane tank
to drag around), but you do have to deal with filling and such. In my
experience, the only time the kerosene heaters generate odors is when they
are running low on kerosene or your burning deisel fuel in them. The
propane ones are definately clean burning and you can probably steal the
propane tank from your gas grill - your wife's not barbequeing when its 30
degrees right?
Good luck,
Todd Houg
St. Francis, MN
HS and VS complete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: How far is the radio from the compass? |
Why are you worried? There are NO requirements for instrumentation for an
experimental. That is your call.
John Moffit uses a stick-on compass from the autoparts store and has been
for over 20 years.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 6:56 AM
Subject: RV-List: How far is the radio from the compass?
>
> For those of you who asked. The panel mounted compass on my RV-6A is
> located 1.25 inches from the VALCOM radio.
>
> As I asked in my post, I would like to use one of these new (to me) remote
> head compasses with a digital readout on the panel. I understand that you
> locate the head on a part of the airplane far from electrical and ferrous
> interference and experience the bliss of a compass that is more or less
> unaffected by the rest of the plane.
>
> I understand that you need to replace the battery once a year. I worry,
> though that the inspector will say that the solid state, battery powered
> thing is not a compass and refuse to issue an airworthiness certificate.
>
> Any of you been through this and pass with such a compass?
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | I need a little heat... |
I've used a kerosene torpedo header in my T-hangar to good effect. I think
it's ~100K BTU and will warm the back 16x16 portion to a workable level down
to around freezing. That's in a corrogated metal, un-insulated, open ceiling
T-hangar. It doesn't get to freezing that often down here, so I just quit
when it does. You could probably get by with a smaller unit in a garage. I
chose kerosene since I figured I could get kerosene/diesel anytime I ran
out.
Regards,
Greg Young (Houston - DWH)
RV-6 N6GY systems & wiring (will it ever end?)
The Canadians have sent us Midwesterners some of their cold air (thanks
anyway, guys, but where were you in August?). I would like to know the best
method for rapidly removing the chill from my garage so I can primer some
parts. My work area is heated, but not so the rest of the garage, and I
don't want to spray where I will be working. I am looking at some
forced-air propane heaters (Harbor Freight), but I don't know how effective
they will be. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A N143DJ
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How far is the radio from the compass? |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Beware the "cheap" digital compasses...I called the manufacturer of one and
>he was firm on not using in an airplane because they are not designed for
>the
>constant pitch, yaw, and roll movements of aircraft...it has to do with the
>orientation of their sensors....
>
I wonder if this manufacturer knows that approved aircraft mechanical
compasses also do not work during pitch, yaw, and roll. In addition the
aircraft compasses do not work during turbulence. I suspect the
electronic ones do.
If aircraft compasses worked under all those conditions we would not need
those expensive DGs.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tilt-up vs slider RV-6 canopy |
> I am building a -6A and I intend to go with the tip-up canopy. I also
don't
> want the vertical brace below the panel. Is this possible? Please send
me
> any info you have on mods, clearances, etc.
I have a slider but it's not uncommon to skip the center vertical console
with either a slider or tip-up. Main thing is to put some sort of stiffener
from the center of the panel back to the firewall. I also tied in the sides
of the panel to the fuselage sides. Some people put their controls in the
panel, I put mine in a small subpanel underneath the main panel. Check out
http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/instp.html for pictures of my panel
and some installation details.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Hinge |
Jack Textor wrote:
> In order to secure my trim tab hinge wire as show in the rv-ator I need a
> longer wire.
Dunno whether this applies to the RV-8, but the RV-6 uses hinges (same
size as the trim tab hinge) to attach seatbacks to the floor. Three
hinge sections are rivetted to the floor, but only one pin is used. What
this means is that there's about 32" of spare hinge pin in an RV-6 kit,
but its only available after the fuselage has been built.
You might want to look into how your seatbacks are attached -- you might
later have spare hinge pin. If not, look round for an RV-6 builder and
get some off him.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How far is the radio from the compass? |
11/21/2000 12:14:05 PM
This is in the archives, even my misspelling of mu metal. Mu metal is a
soft metal, usually used in sheets to surround sensitive items like your
compass. The Magnetic lines of flux from the earth can penetrate but the
bad lines of flux(energy fields) can't penetrate. I have never had a
intelligent explanation of how the mu metal knows how to discriminate the
good from the bad flux lines.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: How far is the radio from the compass? |
"Stephen J. Soule" wrote:
> For those of you who asked. The panel mounted compass on my RV-6A is
> located 1.25 inches from the VALCOM radio.
Did you try shielding the radio and its aerial connection? A piece of
aluminium foil wrapped round the radio and aerial leads might be enough
to encourage your compass to work properly.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)win.bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How far is the radio from the compass? |
I usually don't disagree with Cy, but....
Sec. 91.1 Applicability.
(a) Except as provided in paragraphs (b) and (c) of this section and
Secs. 91.701 and 91.703, this part prescribes rules
governing the operation of aircraft (other than moored balloons, kites,
unmanned rockets, and unmanned free balloons,
which are governed by part 101 of this chapter, and ultralight vehicles
operated in accordance with part 103 of this
chapter) within the United States, including the waters within 3
nautical miles of the U.S. coast.
(b) Each person operating an aircraft in the airspace overlying the
waters between 3 and 12 nautical miles from the coast
of the United States shall comply with Secs. 91.1 through 91.21; Secs.
91.101 through 91.143; Secs. 91.151 through
91.159; Secs. 91.167 through 91.193; Sec. 91.203; Sec. 91.205; Secs.
91.209 through 91.217; Sec. 91.221; Secs. 91.303
through 91.319; Sec. 91.323; Sec. 91.605; Sec. 91.609; Secs. 91.703
through 91.715; and 91.903.
(c) This part applies to each person on board an aircraft being operated
under this part, unless otherwise specified.
AND...I believe (but do not guarantee) that Experimentals are in the
standard category...therefore...
Sec. 91.205 Powered civil aircraft with standard category U.S.
airworthiness certificates:
Instrument and equipment requirements.
(a) General. Except as provided in paragraphs (c)(3) and (e) of this
section, no person may operate a powered civil aircraft
with a standard category U.S. airworthiness certificate in any operation
described in paragraphs (b) through (f) of this
section unless that aircraft contains the instruments and equipment
specified in those paragraphs (or FAA-approved
equivalents) for that type of operation, and those instruments and items
of equipment are in operable condition.
(b) Visual-flight rules (day). For VFR flight during the day, the
following instruments and equipment are required:
(1) Airspeed indicator.
(2) Altimeter.
(3) Magnetic direction indicator.
(4) Tachometer for each engine.
(5) Oil pressure gauge for each engine using pressure system.
(6) Temperature gauge for each liquid-cooled engine.
(7) Oil temperature gauge for each air-cooled engine.
(8) Manifold pressure gauge for each altitude engine.
(9) Fuel gauge indicating the quantity of fuel in each tank.
(10) Landing gear position indicator, if the aircraft has a retractable
landing gear.
(11) For small civil airplanes certificated after March 11, 1996, in
accordance with part 23 of this chapter, an approved
aviation red or aviation white anticollision light system. In the event
of failure of any light of the anticollision light system,
operation of the aircraft may continue to a location where repairs or
replacement can be made.
(12) If the aircraft is operated for hire over water and beyond
power-off gliding distance from shore, approved flotation
gear readily available to each occupant and at least one pyrotechnic
signaling device. As used in this section, "shore" means
that area of the land adjacent to the water which is above the high
water mark and excludes land areas which are
intermittently under water.
(13) An approved safety belt with an approved metal-to-metal latching
device for each occupant 2 years of age or older.
(14) For small civil airplanes manufactured after July 18, 1978, an
approved shoulder harness for each front seat. The
shoulder harness must be designed to protect the occupant from serious
head injury when the occupant experiences the
ultimate inertia forces specified in Sec. 23.561(b)(2) of this chapter.
Each shoulder harness installed at a flight
crewmember station must permit the crewmember, when seated and with the
safety belt and shoulder harness fastened, to
perform all functions necessary for flight operations. For purposes of
this paragraph--
(i) The date of manufacture of an airplane is the date the inspection
acceptance records reflect that the airplane is
complete and meets the FAA- approved type design data; and
(ii) A front seat is a seat located at a flight crewmember station or
any seat located alongside such a seat.
(15) An emergency locator transmitter, if required by Sec. 91.207.
(16) For normal, utility, and acrobatic category airplanes with a
seating configuration, excluding pilot seats, of 9 or less,
manufactured after December 12, 1986, a shoulder harness for--
(i) Each front seat that meets the requirements of Sec. 23.785 (g) and
(h) of this chapter in effect on December 12, 1985;
(ii) Each additional seat that meets the requirements of Sec. 23.785(g)
of this chapter in effect on December 12, 1985.
(17) For rotorcraft manufactured after September 16, 1992, a shoulder
harness for each seat that meets the requirements
of Sec. 27.2 or Sec. 29.2 of this chapter in effect on September 16,
1991.
(c) Visual flight rules (night). For VFR flight at night, the following
instruments and equipment are required:
(1) Instruments and equipment specified in paragraph (b) of this
section.
(2) Approved position lights.
(3) An approved aviation red or aviation white anticollision light
system on all U.S.-registered civil aircraft. Anticollision
light systems initially installed after August 11, 1971, on aircraft for
which a type certificate was issued or applied for
before August 11, 1971, must at least meet the anticollision light
standards of part 23, 25, 27, or 29 of this chapter, as
applicable, that were in effect on August 10, 1971, except that the
color may be either aviation red or aviation white. In
the event of failure of any light of the anticollision light system,
operations with the aircraft may be continued to a stop
where repairs or replacement can be made.
(4) If the aircraft is operated for hire, one electric landing light.
(5) An adequate source of electrical energy for all installed electrical
and radio equipment.
(6) One spare set of fuses, or three spare fuses of each kind required,
that are accessible to the pilot in flight.
(d) Instrument flight rules. For IFR flight, the following instruments
and equipment are required:
(1) Instruments and equipment specified in paragraph (b) of this
section, and, for night flight, instruments and equipment
specified in paragraph (c) of this section.
(2) Two-way radio communications system and navigational equipment
appropriate to the ground facilities to be used.
(3) Gyroscopic rate-of-turn indicator, except on the following aircraft:
(i) Airplanes with a third attitude instrument system usable through
flight attitudes of 360 degrees of pitch and roll and
installed in accordance with the instrument requirements prescribed in
Sec. 121.305(j) of this chapter; and
(ii) Rotorcraft with a third attitude instrument system usable through
flight attitudes of +/-80 degrees of pitch and
+/-120 degrees of roll and installed in accordance with Sec. 29.1303(g)
of this chapter.
(4) Slip-skid indicator.
(5) Sensitive altimeter adjustable for barometric pressure.
(6) A clock displaying hours, minutes, and seconds with a sweep-second
pointer or digital presentation.
(7) Generator or alternator of adequate capacity.
(8) Gyroscopic pitch and bank indicator (artificial horizon).
(9) Gyroscopic direction indicator (directional gyro or equivalent).
(e) Flight at and above 24,000 ft. MSL (FL 240). If VOR navigational
equipment is required under paragraph (d)(2) of
this section, no person may operate a U.S.-registered civil aircraft
within the 50 states and the District of Columbia at or
above FL 240 unless that aircraft is equipped with approved distance
measuring equipment (DME). When DME required
by this paragraph fails at and above FL 240, the pilot in command of the
aircraft shall notify ATC immediately, and then
may continue operations at and above FL 240 to the next airport of
intended landing at which repairs or replacement of
the equipment can be made.
(f) Category II operations. The requirements for Category II operations
are the instruments and equipment specified in--
(1) Paragraph (d) of this section; and
(2) Appendix A to this part.
(g) Category III operations. The instruments and equipment required for
Category III operations are specified in
paragraph (d) of this section.
(h) Exclusions. Paragraphs (f) and (g) of this section do not apply to
operations conducted by a holder of a certificate
issued under part 121 or part 135 of this chapter.
Cy Galley wrote:
>
>
> Why are you worried? There are NO requirements for instrumentation for an
> experimental. That is your call.
>
> John Moffit uses a stick-on compass from the autoparts store and has been
> for over 20 years.
>
> Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
> (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
> To: "Rv-List (E-mail)"
> Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 6:56 AM
> Subject: RV-List: How far is the radio from the compass?
>
> >
> > For those of you who asked. The panel mounted compass on my RV-6A is
> > located 1.25 inches from the VALCOM radio.
> >
> > As I asked in my post, I would like to use one of these new (to me) remote
> > head compasses with a digital readout on the panel. I understand that you
> > locate the head on a part of the airplane far from electrical and ferrous
> > interference and experience the bliss of a compass that is more or less
> > unaffected by the rest of the plane.
> >
> > I understand that you need to replace the battery once a year. I worry,
> > though that the inspector will say that the solid state, battery powered
> > thing is not a compass and refuse to issue an airworthiness certificate.
> >
> > Any of you been through this and pass with such a compass?
> >
> > Steve Soule
> > Huntington, Vermont
> >
> >
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How far is the radio from the compass? |
This may or may not be useful but, I just checked West Marines Web Store.
In the Clearance Outlet they have the Richie 2" remote sensor compass on
sale for $109.99. This is the panel mount, blue face with black trim bezel.
It comes with 20' of cable for the remote sensor. just ordered mine, enjoy.
Garry "6" Finishing
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> This is in the archives, even my misspelling of mu metal. Mu metal is a
> soft metal, usually used in sheets to surround sensitive items like your
> compass. The Magnetic lines of flux from the earth can penetrate but the
> bad lines of flux(energy fields) can't penetrate. I have never had a
> intelligent explanation of how the mu metal knows how to discriminate the
> good from the bad flux lines.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Van's Aircraft has these hinge pins for sale, too.
Ask me how I know.
Steve Soule
-----Original Message-----
Jack Textor wrote:
> In order to secure my trim tab hinge wire as show in the rv-ator I need a
> longer wire.
Dunno whether this applies to the RV-8, but the RV-6 uses hinges (same
size as the trim tab hinge) to attach seatbacks to the floor. Three
hinge sections are rivetted to the floor, but only one pin is used. What
this means is that there's about 32" of spare hinge pin in an RV-6 kit,
but its only available after the fuselage has been built.
You might want to look into how your seatbacks are attached -- you might
later have spare hinge pin. If not, look round for an RV-6 builder and
get some off him.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How far is the radio from the compass? |
Frank and Dorothy wrote:
> Did you try shielding the radio and its aerial connection? A piece of
> aluminium foil wrapped round the radio and aerial leads might be enough
> to encourage your compass to work properly.
Aluminum has NO effect on magnetic flux lines. I think that if a magnet
shows no attraction to a metal (e.g. alu, brass or bronze), it has no effect
on magnetism.
Finn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: How far is the radio from the compass? |
Everything below is correct except, experimentals are NOT in the standard
category. That is why they are called experimental.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott" <acepilot(at)win.bright.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 12:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: How far is the radio from the compass?
>
> I usually don't disagree with Cy, but....
>
> Sec. 91.1 Applicability.
>
> (a) Except as provided in paragraphs (b) and (c) of this section and
> Secs. 91.701 and 91.703, this part prescribes rules
> governing the operation of aircraft (other than moored balloons, kites,
> unmanned rockets, and unmanned free balloons,
> which are governed by part 101 of this chapter, and ultralight vehicles
> operated in accordance with part 103 of this
> chapter) within the United States, including the waters within 3
> nautical miles of the U.S. coast.
> (b) Each person operating an aircraft in the airspace overlying the
> waters between 3 and 12 nautical miles from the coast
> of the United States shall comply with Secs. 91.1 through 91.21; Secs.
> 91.101 through 91.143; Secs. 91.151 through
> 91.159; Secs. 91.167 through 91.193; Sec. 91.203; Sec. 91.205; Secs.
> 91.209 through 91.217; Sec. 91.221; Secs. 91.303
> through 91.319; Sec. 91.323; Sec. 91.605; Sec. 91.609; Secs. 91.703
> through 91.715; and 91.903.
> (c) This part applies to each person on board an aircraft being operated
> under this part, unless otherwise specified.
>
>
> AND...I believe (but do not guarantee) that Experimentals are in the
> standard category...therefore...
>
> Sec. 91.205 Powered civil aircraft with standard category U.S.
> airworthiness certificates:
> Instrument and equipment requirements.
>
> (a) General. Except as provided in paragraphs (c)(3) and (e) of this
> section, no person may operate a powered civil aircraft
> with a standard category U.S. airworthiness certificate in any operation
> described in paragraphs (b) through (f) of this
> section unless that aircraft contains the instruments and equipment
> specified in those paragraphs (or FAA-approved
> equivalents) for that type of operation, and those instruments and items
> of equipment are in operable condition.
> (b) Visual-flight rules (day). For VFR flight during the day, the
> following instruments and equipment are required:
> (1) Airspeed indicator.
> (2) Altimeter.
> (3) Magnetic direction indicator.
> (4) Tachometer for each engine.
> (5) Oil pressure gauge for each engine using pressure system.
> (6) Temperature gauge for each liquid-cooled engine.
> (7) Oil temperature gauge for each air-cooled engine.
> (8) Manifold pressure gauge for each altitude engine.
> (9) Fuel gauge indicating the quantity of fuel in each tank.
> (10) Landing gear position indicator, if the aircraft has a retractable
> landing gear.
> (11) For small civil airplanes certificated after March 11, 1996, in
> accordance with part 23 of this chapter, an approved
> aviation red or aviation white anticollision light system. In the event
> of failure of any light of the anticollision light system,
> operation of the aircraft may continue to a location where repairs or
> replacement can be made.
> (12) If the aircraft is operated for hire over water and beyond
> power-off gliding distance from shore, approved flotation
> gear readily available to each occupant and at least one pyrotechnic
> signaling device. As used in this section, "shore" means
> that area of the land adjacent to the water which is above the high
> water mark and excludes land areas which are
> intermittently under water.
> (13) An approved safety belt with an approved metal-to-metal latching
> device for each occupant 2 years of age or older.
> (14) For small civil airplanes manufactured after July 18, 1978, an
> approved shoulder harness for each front seat. The
> shoulder harness must be designed to protect the occupant from serious
> head injury when the occupant experiences the
> ultimate inertia forces specified in Sec. 23.561(b)(2) of this chapter.
> Each shoulder harness installed at a flight
> crewmember station must permit the crewmember, when seated and with the
> safety belt and shoulder harness fastened, to
> perform all functions necessary for flight operations. For purposes of
> this paragraph--
> (i) The date of manufacture of an airplane is the date the inspection
> acceptance records reflect that the airplane is
> complete and meets the FAA- approved type design data; and
> (ii) A front seat is a seat located at a flight crewmember station or
> any seat located alongside such a seat.
> (15) An emergency locator transmitter, if required by Sec. 91.207.
> (16) For normal, utility, and acrobatic category airplanes with a
> seating configuration, excluding pilot seats, of 9 or less,
> manufactured after December 12, 1986, a shoulder harness for--
> (i) Each front seat that meets the requirements of Sec. 23.785 (g) and
> (h) of this chapter in effect on December 12, 1985;
> (ii) Each additional seat that meets the requirements of Sec. 23.785(g)
> of this chapter in effect on December 12, 1985.
> (17) For rotorcraft manufactured after September 16, 1992, a shoulder
> harness for each seat that meets the requirements
> of Sec. 27.2 or Sec. 29.2 of this chapter in effect on September 16,
> 1991.
> (c) Visual flight rules (night). For VFR flight at night, the following
> instruments and equipment are required:
> (1) Instruments and equipment specified in paragraph (b) of this
> section.
> (2) Approved position lights.
> (3) An approved aviation red or aviation white anticollision light
> system on all U.S.-registered civil aircraft. Anticollision
> light systems initially installed after August 11, 1971, on aircraft for
> which a type certificate was issued or applied for
> before August 11, 1971, must at least meet the anticollision light
> standards of part 23, 25, 27, or 29 of this chapter, as
> applicable, that were in effect on August 10, 1971, except that the
> color may be either aviation red or aviation white. In
> the event of failure of any light of the anticollision light system,
> operations with the aircraft may be continued to a stop
> where repairs or replacement can be made.
> (4) If the aircraft is operated for hire, one electric landing light.
> (5) An adequate source of electrical energy for all installed electrical
> and radio equipment.
> (6) One spare set of fuses, or three spare fuses of each kind required,
> that are accessible to the pilot in flight.
> (d) Instrument flight rules. For IFR flight, the following instruments
> and equipment are required:
> (1) Instruments and equipment specified in paragraph (b) of this
> section, and, for night flight, instruments and equipment
> specified in paragraph (c) of this section.
> (2) Two-way radio communications system and navigational equipment
> appropriate to the ground facilities to be used.
> (3) Gyroscopic rate-of-turn indicator, except on the following aircraft:
> (i) Airplanes with a third attitude instrument system usable through
> flight attitudes of 360 degrees of pitch and roll and
> installed in accordance with the instrument requirements prescribed in
> Sec. 121.305(j) of this chapter; and
> (ii) Rotorcraft with a third attitude instrument system usable through
> flight attitudes of +/-80 degrees of pitch and
> +/-120 degrees of roll and installed in accordance with Sec. 29.1303(g)
> of this chapter.
> (4) Slip-skid indicator.
> (5) Sensitive altimeter adjustable for barometric pressure.
> (6) A clock displaying hours, minutes, and seconds with a sweep-second
> pointer or digital presentation.
> (7) Generator or alternator of adequate capacity.
> (8) Gyroscopic pitch and bank indicator (artificial horizon).
> (9) Gyroscopic direction indicator (directional gyro or equivalent).
> (e) Flight at and above 24,000 ft. MSL (FL 240). If VOR navigational
> equipment is required under paragraph (d)(2) of
> this section, no person may operate a U.S.-registered civil aircraft
> within the 50 states and the District of Columbia at or
> above FL 240 unless that aircraft is equipped with approved distance
> measuring equipment (DME). When DME required
> by this paragraph fails at and above FL 240, the pilot in command of the
> aircraft shall notify ATC immediately, and then
> may continue operations at and above FL 240 to the next airport of
> intended landing at which repairs or replacement of
> the equipment can be made.
> (f) Category II operations. The requirements for Category II operations
> are the instruments and equipment specified in--
> (1) Paragraph (d) of this section; and
> (2) Appendix A to this part.
> (g) Category III operations. The instruments and equipment required for
> Category III operations are specified in
> paragraph (d) of this section.
> (h) Exclusions. Paragraphs (f) and (g) of this section do not apply to
> operations conducted by a holder of a certificate
> issued under part 121 or part 135 of this chapter.
>
> Cy Galley wrote:
> >
> >
> > Why are you worried? There are NO requirements for instrumentation for
an
> > experimental. That is your call.
> >
> > John Moffit uses a stick-on compass from the autoparts store and has
been
> > for over 20 years.
> >
> > Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
> > (Click here to visit our Club site at
http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
> > To: "Rv-List (E-mail)"
> > Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 6:56 AM
> > Subject: RV-List: How far is the radio from the compass?
> >
> > >
> > > For those of you who asked. The panel mounted compass on my RV-6A is
> > > located 1.25 inches from the VALCOM radio.
> > >
> > > As I asked in my post, I would like to use one of these new (to me)
remote
> > > head compasses with a digital readout on the panel. I understand that
you
> > > locate the head on a part of the airplane far from electrical and
ferrous
> > > interference and experience the bliss of a compass that is more or
less
> > > unaffected by the rest of the plane.
> > >
> > > I understand that you need to replace the battery once a year. I
worry,
> > > though that the inspector will say that the solid state, battery
powered
> > > thing is not a compass and refuse to issue an airworthiness
certificate.
> > >
> > > Any of you been through this and pass with such a compass?
> > >
> > > Steve Soule
> > > Huntington, Vermont
> > >
> > >
> >
>
> --
> --Scott--
> 1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
> http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
>
> Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: I need a little heat... |
I tied using a torpedo heater with Diesel fuel in my garage (3 car) ONCE.
Diesel does not burn clean enough, in my opinion, to allow me to work in a
garage area.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 10:26 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: I need a little heat...
>
> I've used a kerosene torpedo header in my T-hangar to good effect. I think
> it's ~100K BTU and will warm the back 16x16 portion to a workable level
down
> to around freezing. That's in a corrogated metal, un-insulated, open
ceiling
> T-hangar. It doesn't get to freezing that often down here, so I just quit
> when it does. You could probably get by with a smaller unit in a garage. I
> chose kerosene since I figured I could get kerosene/diesel anytime I ran
> out.
>
> Regards,
> Greg Young (Houston - DWH)
> RV-6 N6GY systems & wiring (will it ever end?)
>
>
> The Canadians have sent us Midwesterners some of their cold air (thanks
> anyway, guys, but where were you in August?). I would like to know the
best
> method for rapidly removing the chill from my garage so I can primer some
> parts. My work area is heated, but not so the rest of the garage, and I
> don't want to spray where I will be working. I am looking at some
> forced-air propane heaters (Harbor Freight), but I don't know how
effective
> they will be. Any ideas?
>
> Thanks in advance for your help.
>
>
> Jim Bower
> St. Louis, MO
> RV-6A N143DJ
> Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How far is the radio from the compass? |
Steve,
A remote indicating comapss fits the bill in place of a "Whiskey" mag
compass. I have an RMI MicroEncoder installed in my -8A and got the compass
option for it. Works great. I installed the sensor under the passenger
vent just in fromt of the back seat. It is so accurate that it is always
within a degree or two of my Garmin 430 GPS. I looked at a Richie remote
compass at West Marine but the color of the indicator just did not fit in
with my panel. I was able to get IFR authorization on my Operating
Limitations.
Good Luck finding what you want.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
3.1 hours
>From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "Rv-List (E-mail)"
>Subject: RV-List: How far is the radio from the compass?
>Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 07:56:59 -0500
>
>
>For those of you who asked. The panel mounted compass on my RV-6A is
>located 1.25 inches from the VALCOM radio.
>
>As I asked in my post, I would like to use one of these new (to me) remote
>head compasses with a digital readout on the panel. I understand that you
>locate the head on a part of the airplane far from electrical and ferrous
>interference and experience the bliss of a compass that is more or less
>unaffected by the rest of the plane.
>
>I understand that you need to replace the battery once a year. I worry,
>though that the inspector will say that the solid state, battery powered
>thing is not a compass and refuse to issue an airworthiness certificate.
>
>Any of you been through this and pass with such a compass?
>
>Steve Soule
>Huntington, Vermont
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Trim Tab Hinge----pin |
11/21/2000 04:05:30 PM
The local hobbie store had the metal stock in little hobbie tubes in 3 foot
lengths. They had the exact diameter I needed for my hinge.
"Stephen J. Soule" (at)matronics.com on 11/21/2000 01:39:53
PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RE: RV-List: Trim Tab Hinge
Van's Aircraft has these hinge pins for sale, too.
Ask me how I know.
Steve Soule
-----Original Message-----
Jack Textor wrote:
> In order to secure my trim tab hinge wire as show in the rv-ator I need a
> longer wire.
Dunno whether this applies to the RV-8, but the RV-6 uses hinges (same
size as the trim tab hinge) to attach seatbacks to the floor. Three
hinge sections are rivetted to the floor, but only one pin is used. What
this means is that there's about 32" of spare hinge pin in an RV-6 kit,
but its only available after the fuselage has been built.
You might want to look into how your seatbacks are attached -- you might
later have spare hinge pin. If not, look round for an RV-6 builder and
get some off him.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
Here's a question to the list: I want to go with an all electric IFR
panel but am having difficulties trying to find an electric DG with a
heading bug for my S-Tec autopilot. Vacumn DG's of this type are
plentiful, but not so for electric. I don't need an expensive flight
director ($6,000+) or EFIS (Sandel) or anything fancy, but this may be
the way I have to go.
Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hours TT
O-320, Hartzell C/S
RV-6, Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | I need some help please. |
Listen folks, I am having a time crunch problem here like most of you
do. It's getting harder and harder for me to make all these appeals to
those of you who haven't contributed yet to:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
P.O. Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
Please, Please, Please, make your contribution now so that I can lay back a
little for Thanksgiving and then hit it hard after the weekend. I promise
to make you feel really bad for not contributing and make you feel as
guilty as heck as soon as the holiday is over and I can concentrate better
on my appeal syntax. Just make your contribution now so that I can take a
little break here. I'll try to get in touch with Matt(e) and see how you
did before I take the break. I'll fill you in tomorrow and let you know
how you're all doing and make one more appeal before Turkey Day but you
gotta help right now and make that donation.......Thanks, Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
Already done this research...months ago - and it took a couple of months
Everything that I checked showed no electric DG's with heading bug for the
S-tec.
You have two choices that I've determined that will allow you to stay all
electric...
GPSS steering system also from STec to interface with the roll steering
commands from your GPS ...or...
Century NSD 1000 all electric HSI
Since I was looking for this earlier - let me know if you find
something...and I'll get some salt and pepper for my crow feast!
Good luck,
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
> You have two choices that I've determined that will allow you to stay all
> electric...
>
> GPSS steering system also from STec to interface with the roll steering
> commands from your GPS ...or...
>
> Century NSD 1000 all electric HSI
IF you haven't purchased the S-Tec system yet, a third alternative is to get
a autopilot from TruTrak Flight Systems http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/
This is an all digital unit designed and built by Jim Younkin who was the
sole designer the Century III in 1965 and Chuck Bilbe an electrical
engineer. I am still researching these units but it appears that the
heading input is made on the unit itself. They also have a motor driven DG.
This is its description.
"Gyro-Trak is a standard heading select DG display driven by the solid-state
slaved DG contained within the autopilot. The motor-driven card moves with
the smoothness of a gyro, while presenting non-lagged ground track. The
"bug" stays at the top of the instrument when the autopilot is not engaged
to facilitate instantaneous synchronization of selected direction with that
being flown as the autopilot is engaged. This is the only system with this
capability."
The systems seem to be about the same price as the S-Tec units. I already
have an electric DG and don't want to put in a vacuum system or buy and
expensive HSI.
Ross Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KayoRV6A(at)AOL.COM |
Remove me from your email listing.
Thank you
KayoRV6A(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: I need a little heat... |
Jim: I run 2 40,000 BTU Salamander Heaters on Jet Fuel (No Kerosene Odor)
and easily heat a 24x52 Building in Ohio.
Buy yourself a Thermostat that plugs into the wall (about $40.00) and
plug a power strip into the thermostat so when you send power to the
salamanders it comes on and goes off at the temperature you want!
I get the temp up to about 80 degrees turn off the heaters and paint
or prime as needed for about 30 min. By the time the temperature falls to 65
Degrees the fumes from painting are to a safe level and I set the temp for
70 until dry.
Works for me! Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Bower <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 7:33 AM
Subject: RV-List: I need a little heat...
>
> The Canadians have sent us Midwesterners some of their cold air (thanks
> anyway, guys, but where were you in August?). I would like to know the
best
> method for rapidly removing the chill from my garage so I can primer some
> parts. My work area is heated, but not so the rest of the garage, and I
> don't want to spray where I will be working. I am looking at some
> forced-air propane heaters (Harbor Freight), but I don't know how
effective
> they will be. Any ideas?
>
> Thanks in advance for your help.
>
>
> Jim Bower
> St. Louis, MO
> RV-6A N143DJ
> Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How far is the radio from the compass? |
To see an RV6 panel with this Richie compass mounted go to
http://www.easystreet.com/~bhaan/
I will add pictures of the connections on the back of the compass and of
the mounted remote sensor, if there is interest.
I mounted the remote sensor on an .040 aluminum plate fastened at the
forward and left sides of the intersection of the first bulkhead aft of the
baggage bulkhead and the intersection of the fore and aft rib that the
elevator bell crank pivot is connected to. This plate is riveted along 2
sides to the top flanges of the bulkhead and the top flanges (al angle)
added to the fore aft rib per the plans. This plate was re-enforced with a
3/4 by riveted under the plate and oriented diagonally from the aft right
corner to the forward left corner.
Bob
RV6A attaching wind screen
Portland
>
>This may or may not be useful but, I just checked West Marines Web Store.
>In the Clearance Outlet they have the Richie 2" remote sensor compass on
>sale for $109.99. This is the panel mount, blue face with black trim bezel.
>It comes with 20' of cable for the remote sensor. just ordered mine, enjoy.
>Garry "6" Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott" <scottaspencer(at)att.net> |
Thanks, Should have figured that out myself
Scott
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Finn Lassen
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2000 3:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: calibration
Put the wrench on a bolt held in your vice, with the handle level. Hang a
known
weight (or use a good spring scale) a specific distance from the wrench
pivot
point.
Example: a 2-pound weight 12 inches out on the handle would be 24
inch-pounds.
Finn
Scott wrote:
>
> Speaking of calibration, does anyone know how to calibrate a torque
wrench?
>
> Thanks
> Scott
> RV9-A Emp
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wes Hays <whays(at)juno.com> |
Well folks,
I just wanted you all to know that N844WB (aka TUT) slipped the surly
bonds of earth today at 10:00 a.m. It flew great and I was up for about
an hour and a half. Almost hands off. Left wing slightly heavy at low
airspeed. Hands off at cruise with no aileron trim hooked up yet. A bit
slower than I had hoped but no gearleg or wheelpants yet. It may pick up
some. Prop was overspeeding a little but not bad. I adjusted it after the
flight and think it should be fine now.
The temps were pretty good. Nothing out of bounds. #3 cylinder got up to
220C but mostly 200 to 210. The others were between 170 and 200C. I
built the dam this afternoon to go in front of the #1 cylinder and hope
that will level out the temps on the cyl heads some.
Everything else was just great. No runs, no leaks, no drips, no errors.
(unless you count the landing). Hard to believe and I am still grinnin'.
:-))))))))))))))).
I want to thank all of you on the list from whom I have borrowed, begged,
and stolen ideas and suggestions from during the building process.
Without a doubt it would have been much more difficult to do this without
you (Contribute now if you havent). A special thanks to Scotty Daniel and
Blackie Miears and Rick Liles (three great mentors and master craftsmen)
and to listers Stan Blanton, Terry Cole, Carroll Bird, and Jeff Church.
After four years, it's just awesome to be saying "flying" now rather than
"building". As someone on the list said, "you are gonna love this
airplane". What an understatement. Keep pounding those rivets and laying
that wire! Its worth it!
Keep your airspeed up!!!!!!
Wes Hays
Rotan, TX
RV6-A, 0-360 w/CS (Hartzell)
N844WB, FLYING ( Man it feels good to type that)
SN: 24860
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
In search of answer to same problem.
Looks like Century 1000 or Sandel (as it can "emulate" most devices).
Saw a USED Sandel being sold on E-Bay, but even there, it was a bit much.
If you find an answer PLEASE post.
James
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of pat_hatch
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 4:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: Electric DG
Here's a question to the list: I want to go with an all electric IFR
panel but am having difficulties trying to find an electric DG with a
heading bug for my S-Tec autopilot. Vacumn DG's of this type are
plentiful, but not so for electric. I don't need an expensive flight
director ($6,000+) or EFIS (Sandel) or anything fancy, but this may be
the way I have to go.
Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hours TT
O-320, Hartzell C/S
RV-6, Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Web Update - Main Wing Skins |
Well, it was a long day and there were some hurdles to overcome but I
got all the main skins on one wing mounted and drilled before running
out of cleco's. Check it out.
http://mnellis.jnet.net/RV-6_Page/WingSkinning2.htm
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
As the others have said, you have very little choice, so I bought a Century
NSD 1000 HSI, with the blessings of my patient wife of course. Will have an
RC Allen ADI (attitude indicator) and an S-Tec 20. Be aware that RC Allen
seems to be shipping only to the big guys; it might take me a year to get
one.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q panel and wiring
Seattle area
> Here's a question to the list: I want to go with an all electric IFR
> panel but am having difficulties trying to find an electric DG with a
> heading bug for my S-Tec autopilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
Jim,
Don't forget, the Sandel is just a display device and does not have it's own
gyro. You still need the back end of another HSI (remote gyro) to make the
Sandel functional.
Bruce
Glasair III
"James E. Clark" wrote:
>
> In search of answer to same problem.
>
> Looks like Century 1000 or Sandel (as it can "emulate" most devices).
>
> Saw a USED Sandel being sold on E-Bay, but even there, it was a bit much.
>
> If you find an answer PLEASE post.
>
> James
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of pat_hatch
> Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 4:12 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Electric DG
>
>
> Here's a question to the list: I want to go with an all electric IFR
> panel but am having difficulties trying to find an electric DG with a
> heading bug for my S-Tec autopilot. Vacumn DG's of this type are
> plentiful, but not so for electric. I don't need an expensive flight
> director ($6,000+) or EFIS (Sandel) or anything fancy, but this may be
> the way I have to go.
>
> Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance.
>
> Pat Hatch
> RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hours TT
> O-320, Hartzell C/S
> RV-6, Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: How far is the radio from the compass? |
Finn Lassen wrote:
>
>
> Frank and Dorothy wrote:
>
> > Did you try shielding the radio and its aerial connection? A piece of
> > aluminium foil wrapped round the radio and aerial leads might be enough
> > to encourage your compass to work properly.
>
> Aluminum has NO effect on magnetic flux lines. I think that if a magnet
> shows no attraction to a metal (e.g. alu, brass or bronze), it has no effect
> on magnetism.
I'm no expert, but I think you're wrong (although it could be me that's
wrong). I'd really love to have some electronic guru (Bob Nuckolls to
the white courtesy phone, please) set this straight.
At a science exhibit I saw an electromagnet pick up a large piece of
aluminium. IIRC this was something to do with fluctuating fields (caused
by alternating current, perhaps at high frequencies). Note that a
Faraday cage may be made of copper, which is not affected by magnetism.
My (limited) understanding is that what the aluminium foil (or copper
cage) is doing is limiting the RF, not the magnetic field. And I think
that without RF, there's no corresponding magnetic field.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: I need a little heat... |
While living in Minnesota I was building in a open ceiling block walls
uninsulated, 2 car garage. I used a large free standing propane heater with
an adjustable fuel flow good for 75,000 to 250,000 BTU's. I puchased this at
Northern Supply. It need no electricity which is nice. According to the
thermometer on the wall I could heat the garage from -10F to 80F in about 30
minutes. You still have to deal with the thermal mass of the cancrete floor
but the air sure was warm.
I did have trouble with condensation on my tools. I solved this by putting a
waterbed mattress heater between the lowere wheel about chest and upper chest
of my Craftsman tool cabinet with the temerature probe placed inside one of
the drawers and setting thermostat at 75F.
John Danielson
Finishing kit, engine installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: I need a little heat... |
Oh my God. Condensation on the tools? Well, in comparison.....my heater
kicked on two days ago for the first time this year. I've enjoyed a couple
fires in the fireplace now and just today bought a snowboard for my upcoming
vacation to Denver in December. After which I will return to the real world
where 70 degrees is cold and sunshine prevails.
Bill
-4 wings
Orlando
Snow is for vacations..... :-)
>
> While living in Minnesota I was building in a open ceiling block walls
> uninsulated, 2 car garage. I used a large free standing propane heater
with
> an adjustable fuel flow good for 75,000 to 250,000 BTU's. I puchased this
at
> Northern Supply. It need no electricity which is nice. According to the
> thermometer on the wall I could heat the garage from -10F to 80F in about
30
> minutes. You still have to deal with the thermal mass of the cancrete
floor
> but the air sure was warm.
> I did have trouble with condensation on my tools. I solved this by putting
a
> waterbed mattress heater between the lowere wheel about chest and upper
chest
> of my Craftsman tool cabinet with the temerature probe placed inside one
of
> the drawers and setting thermostat at 75F.
>
> John Danielson
> Finishing kit, engine installation
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 aileron pre punched? |
Listers:
I am about to remake one aileron due to a hanger door last month. Does
anyone know if the new RV4 aileron skins and spars are prepunched. I
forgot to ask Van's and have not been able to get through this PM.
Thanks
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
FWF except for wreckages and screwups....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Electronic Ignition w/ one mag..problem??? |
I am researching the electronic ignition options for my brand new O-360. I
am leaning towards using one Lightspeed and one mag. I asked a local guy
why he bought a LASAR instead and he brought up a few points I would like to
bounce off the LIST.
First he said that if one uses a Lightspeed, the FSDO will make you take off
your data plate and give you a 40 hour rather than 25 hour test period.
He then said that the engine may be damaged by the difference in ignition
timing between the electronic spark and mag spark.
Comments??
Ross Mickey
6-A 9PT (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jsu24osu(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Nebraska builders? |
Nick,
I'm not in Nebraska but saw your note. Don't know if you have a 6 yet or just
wanting one. I have two, one almost ready for paint and another with a lot
built. Sort of a super quick build kit which I need to sell. All work done is
top rate and will not take second place to many 6's. Price is right.
Let me if you might be interested or past it along if you know someone
looking for a good jump start.
Joe Underwood
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A wanted |
Check out Barnstormers.com and search the experimental/RV's. There are too
many to chose from.
Rick Gray (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Inexpensive Electronic Compass |
In response to :
_______
Beware the "cheap" digital compasses...I called the manufacturer of one
and>he was firm on not using in an airplane because they are not designed
for>the>constant pitch, yaw, and roll movements of rcraft...it has to do
with the>orientation of their sensors...
I finally threw out my Whiskey compass about 2 weeks ago. After sitting on
the phone with a couple of electronic compass mfgs I settled on Precision
Navigation's products. (precisionnavigation.com) One interesting topic
included the relatively inexpensive single axis versus more expensive multi
axis sensors. The multi axis sensors are useful in a boat or something like
that which pitches. They are however WORSE than useless in an airplane.
When an airplane pitches the multi axis system will compensate, but when an
airplane rolls the "gravity" force that the compass feels stays
perpindicular to the floor of the airplane, it won't truly point down.
(i.e. top of a loop, down to the compass is up) He therefore just
suggested their simple single axis compass with the caution that accuracy
would suffer when not level. (just like a regular compass, except
electronic compasses are not affected by acceleration) Incidentally, he
also to ld me this is the same technology they sell to the military for
$1000+. I was about to order it over the phone for $59, when the gentleman
said, "hay, is there a Sam's Club near you, because we just sold thousands
of these to Sam's." Down to Sams I went, $29 later I had a state of the art
Compass.
Calibration was a bit of a pain. All the compass needed was for me to spin
720 degrees while in calibration mode. However I wanted to make sure all
electronics were fired up and the plane was in its normal flight attitude.
So Here's what I did. I got in the plane, fired up the engine, turned on
the radios and had someone pick up my tailwheel and walk me in a slow 720
deg circle while I stood on one brake. Done, calibrated, and accurate to
within 5 degrees, maybe more, everywhere I check. Much better than a
standard compass. It gives me numeric readout and a N, NNE, S, SW kindof of
display. Sorry for the long post.
Don Mei
RV-4 N92CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: re: It flies! |
| From: | Wes Hays <whays(at)juno.com> |
Boyd,
Sorry 'bout that. I thought the signature carried the fact I had a
constant speed prop. The Hartzell manual was very clear and helpful in
how to adjust the fine pitch if the prop was overspeeding at full
throttle takeoff.
Wes Hays
Rotan, TX
RV6-A, 0-360 w/CS (Hartzell)
N844WB, Flying
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: re: It flies! |
Wes Hays wrote:
>
> Well folks,
> I just wanted you all to know that N844WB (aka TUT) slipped the surly
> bonds of earth today at 10:00 a.m. It flew great and I was up for about
> an hour and a half.
I told you that you would do it if you just kept on plugging!!!!!!!
CONGRATULATIONS!!!!!!!
Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
Listers,
I have a quick question here. What can be wrong with a gyro if the no power
flags do not dissappear when power is supplied? Th gyro 'appears' to work
OK. I say appears because I have not flown yet but as I tip the tail up or
rotate the airframe the gyros follow the movement well. My battery voltage
is starting to dip to around 11.5 volts. Could this be the reason? When I
first got the A/H and DG the flags worked properly but on the last twp
powerup checks on the panel they did't.
Thanks in advance for your assistance.
Douglas G. Murray RV-6 - just doing the last few details before painting.
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition w/ one mag..problem??? |
Taking off the data plate is not required by the FAA. It might be by an
individual that works for the FAA as one of the problems with the FAA is
local interpretations of the regs. I would contact Earl Lawrence EAA VP in
charge of government programs for the true story or if you are given what
you believe to be erroneous information.
Further, starting damage to your engine because of the different ignition
systems could happen. That is why, many FAA CERTIFIED installations start
on one mag not two as "kick-back" can occur if one would use the mag with no
retarding which is what happens when the mag doesn't have an impulse. Your
electronic system should have retarded spark at low rpms for starting. I
would check with the manufacturer.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 12:30 AM
Subject: RV-List: Electronic Ignition w/ one mag..problem???
>
> I am researching the electronic ignition options for my brand new O-360.
I
> am leaning towards using one Lightspeed and one mag. I asked a local guy
> why he bought a LASAR instead and he brought up a few points I would like
to
> bounce off the LIST.
>
> First he said that if one uses a Lightspeed, the FSDO will make you take
off
> your data plate and give you a 40 hour rather than 25 hour test period.
>
> He then said that the engine may be damaged by the difference in ignition
> timing between the electronic spark and mag spark.
>
> Comments??
>
> Ross Mickey
> 6-A 9PT (reserved)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Electronic Ignition w/ one mag..problem??? |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Electronic Ignition w/ one mag..problem???
Thread-Index: AcBUVSrl6r0C3ANKTniXZI+SRZMPngAP5FFA
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
> I am researching the electronic ignition options for my brand
> new O-360. I
> am leaning towards using one Lightspeed and one mag. I asked
> a local guy
> why he bought a LASAR instead and he brought up a few points
> I would like to
> bounce off the LIST.
That depends on the personality of your inspector. He may or may not
assign you a 40 hour test period. On argument against the LASAR in this
case would be if you had the Lightspeed ignition on it and got a 40 test
period the difference in price would more than offset the fuel cost of
flying the additional 15 hours. Once you get your bird done, believe
me, it's pretty easy to rack up the hours.
>
> First he said that if one uses a Lightspeed, the FSDO will
> make you take off
> your data plate and give you a 40 hour rather than 25 hour
> test period.
The FSDO does not have the authority to make you take off the dataplate.
Its a homebuilt, you can do whatever you want with it. If you want to
put a beercan label on for the dataplate you can.
>
> He then said that the engine may be damaged by the difference
> in ignition
> timing between the electronic spark and mag spark.
>
If you follow the directions that is virtually impossible to do.
I have an Electroair ignition and love it, and I really don't think
there's much difference between the Lightspeed and the Electroair,
except for how the coils are mounted and wired. The other day at 5500
feet I was running 24 square burning 8.8 gallons per hour (215kt
groundspeed with a nice tailwind), and I can lean right up to roughness
and back off just a few degrees. The engine runs noticeably smoother,
starts better and produces more power. Maybe someone else can verify
this for me, but if I remember correctly the LASAR can't advance the
timing nearly as far as the other electronic ignitions can, due to
certification constraints.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 54 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Gyros |
Charge the battery and then check!
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 8:19 AM
Subject: RV-List: Electric Gyros
>
> Listers,
>
> I have a quick question here. What can be wrong with a gyro if the no
power
> flags do not dissappear when power is supplied? Th gyro 'appears' to work
> OK. I say appears because I have not flown yet but as I tip the tail up or
> rotate the airframe the gyros follow the movement well. My battery voltage
> is starting to dip to around 11.5 volts. Could this be the reason? When I
> first got the A/H and DG the flags worked properly but on the last twp
> powerup checks on the panel they did't.
>
> Thanks in advance for your assistance.
>
> Douglas G. Murray RV-6 - just doing the last few details before
painting.
> Southern Alberta
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: re: It flies! |
In a message dated 11/22/00 6:22:12 AM Pacific Standard Time,
bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com writes:
<< CS - Constant Speed, governor controlled. Woodward governor has input arm
travel stop adjustment for setting control points. >>
Actually Hartzell states that the low pitch (high rpm) limit must be set at
the prop hub. See your literature for making the adjustment with the set
screw and locking nut at the front of the hub. I had to turn mine in about
three full turns to get my max rpm to around 2650.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: It flies! |
-----Original Message-----
From: Wes Hays <whays(at)juno.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 9:22 PM
Subject: RV-List: re: It flies!
>
>>
>The temps were pretty good. Nothing out of bounds. #3 cylinder got up to
>220C but mostly 200 to 210. The others were between 170 and 200C. I
>built the dam this afternoon to go in front of the #1 cylinder and hope
>that will level out the temps on the cyl heads some.
>>Wes Hays
>Rotan, TX
>RV6-A, 0-360 w/CS (Hartzell)
>N844WB, FLYING ( Man it feels good to type that)
>SN: 24860
>
Wes,
Congrats! Could you describe the dam you built and the effect it had? I
have high #3 and #4 CHTs ( as high as 480 F in 110 KIAS climb to 5500 with
34 F OAT) and would like to try the same.
Thanks!
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 11 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Weyant <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Inexpensive Electronic Compass |
> I finally threw out my Whiskey compass about 2 weeks ago. After sitting on
> the phone with a couple of electronic compass mfgs I settled on Precision
> Navigation's products. (precisionnavigation.com)
What do ya do if the power goes away. Is there a battery backup?
Chuck Weyant
RV9A - right tank almost ready to close
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Was How far.. Homebuilts and FAA |
> Experimentals are in the Experimental Category. No I am not trying to be
> smart. That's what it is called. Go to
http://www.faa.gov/avr/avrhome.htm
> and look at the FARs. If you need further help or information I suggest
Earl
> Lawrence EAA VP in charge of government programs. Elawrence(at)eaa.org
Ron Alexander had a good article about homebuilts in the May 1997 edition of
Sports Aviation. You can find it here...
http://www.faa.gov/avr/news/Reprints/HomeBlt.pdf
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition w/ one mag..problem??? |
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
> Further, starting damage to your engine because of the different ignition
> systems could happen. That is why, many FAA CERTIFIED installations start
> on one mag not two as "kick-back" can occur if one would use the mag with
no
> retarding which is what happens when the mag doesn't have an impulse. Your
> electronic system should have retarded spark at low rpms for starting. I
> would check with the manufacturer.
Cy,
The problem this person was referring to would be created while cruising
high where the electronic spark is well advanced (firing first) and the mag
spark is still firing at 25 degree.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition w/ one mag..problem??? |
Ross,
In both cases he is incorrect. If you take off one or both mags you are not
changing the engine, just an accessory. And the electronic ignitions range
from TDC firing to somewhere around 40 degrees. Worst case all that is
happening is a prolonging of the flame front, but that only makes it more
efficient.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
3.1 hours
>From: "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Electronic Ignition w/ one mag..problem???
>Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 22:30:24 -0800
>
>
>I am researching the electronic ignition options for my brand new O-360. I
>am leaning towards using one Lightspeed and one mag. I asked a local guy
>why he bought a LASAR instead and he brought up a few points I would like
>to
>bounce off the LIST.
>
>First he said that if one uses a Lightspeed, the FSDO will make you take
>off
>your data plate and give you a 40 hour rather than 25 hour test period.
>
>He then said that the engine may be damaged by the difference in ignition
>timing between the electronic spark and mag spark.
>
>Comments??
>
>Ross Mickey
>6-A 9PT (reserved)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Was How far.. Homebuilts and FAA |
> Experimentals are in the Experimental Category. No I am not trying to be
> smart. That's what it is called. Go to
http://www.faa.gov/avr/avrhome.htm
> and look at the FARs. If you need further help or information I suggest
Earl
> Lawrence EAA VP in charge of government programs. Elawrence(at)eaa.org
Ron Alexander had a good article about homebuilts in the May 1997 edition of
Sports Aviation. You can find it here...
http://www.faa.gov/avr/news/Reprints/HomeBlt.pdf
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Inexpensive Electronic Compass |
Subject: RV-List: Inexpensive Electronic Compass
>
> In response to :
> _______
> Beware the "cheap" digital compasses...I called the manufacturer of one
> and>he was firm on not using in an airplane because they are not designed
> for>the>constant pitch, yaw, and roll movements of rcraft...it has to do
> with the>orientation of their sensors...
>
> I finally threw out my Whiskey compass about 2 weeks ago. After sitting
on
> the phone with a couple of electronic compass mfgs I settled on Precision
> Navigation's products. (precisionnavigation.com......
]
BIG SNIP
I was about to order it over the phone for $59, when the gentleman
> said, "hay, is there a Sam's Club near you, because we just sold thousands
> of these to Sam's." Down to Sams I went, $29 later I had a state of the
art
> Compass.
.... SNIP
>
> Don Mei
> RV-4 N92CT
Hey Don,
I checked out their web page and agree that for the price how could you
go wrong? By the way did you get the V500 or the V550. Apparently the V550
gives readings by 1 degree increment whereas the V500 by 5 deg increments,
not that I would believe an accuracy of 1 deg. We have a SAMs near us and
might looked their for my plane a Christmas present {:>)
Thanks for the tip
Ed Anderson
Matthews, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition w/ one mag..problem??? |
How pray tell would firing the mag late damage any thing. The burn has
already been started and if very late would have nothing left to burn. As I
understand, some electronic ignitions advance the spark by more than 10
degrees. Further, if different timing is detrimental, than why are some
mags like on the 4 cylinder continentals have different settings of 3
degrees for the top and bottom plugs?
Advancing the timing to meet the engine conditions is one way of increasing
power and/or economy. Doing that under the right conditions so that an
engine isn't damaged if the forte of electronic ignition.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 12:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electronic Ignition w/ one mag..problem???
>
>
> From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
> > Further, starting damage to your engine because of the different
ignition
> > systems could happen. That is why, many FAA CERTIFIED installations
start
> > on one mag not two as "kick-back" can occur if one would use the mag
with
> no
> > retarding which is what happens when the mag doesn't have an impulse.
Your
> > electronic system should have retarded spark at low rpms for starting.
I
> > would check with the manufacturer.
>
> Cy,
>
> The problem this person was referring to would be created while cruising
> high where the electronic spark is well advanced (firing first) and the
mag
> spark is still firing at 25 degree.
>
> Ross
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Inexpensive Electronic Compass |
Your airpath aviation compass only has 5 degree markings.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 1:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Inexpensive Electronic Compass
>
>
> Subject: RV-List: Inexpensive Electronic Compass
>
>
> >
> > In response to :
> > _______
> > Beware the "cheap" digital compasses...I called the manufacturer of one
> > and>he was firm on not using in an airplane because they are not
designed
> > for>the>constant pitch, yaw, and roll movements of rcraft...it has to do
> > with the>orientation of their sensors...
> >
> > I finally threw out my Whiskey compass about 2 weeks ago. After sitting
> on
> > the phone with a couple of electronic compass mfgs I settled on
Precision
> > Navigation's products. (precisionnavigation.com......
> ]
>
>
> BIG SNIP
>
>
> I was about to order it over the phone for $59, when the gentleman
> > said, "hay, is there a Sam's Club near you, because we just sold
thousands
> > of these to Sam's." Down to Sams I went, $29 later I had a state of the
> art
> > Compass.
> .... SNIP
>
> >
> > Don Mei
> > RV-4 N92CT
>
> Hey Don,
> I checked out their web page and agree that for the price how could
you
> go wrong? By the way did you get the V500 or the V550. Apparently the
V550
> gives readings by 1 degree increment whereas the V500 by 5 deg increments,
> not that I would believe an accuracy of 1 deg. We have a SAMs near us and
> might looked their for my plane a Christmas present {:>)
>
> Thanks for the tip
>
> Ed Anderson
>
> Matthews, NC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ashley & Margaret Johnston" <Jabiru.nz(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Members,
It is firstly a home builder and sport flyer that I am writing to your
group
with some information many may find interesting.
I have been privileged to represent Jabiru Pty Ltd in New Zealand since
bringing the first Jabiru Aircraft here almost six years ago. Presently
Jabiru Engines are available and landed at most world Custom Clearance
Airports at:-
2200 cc 80 hp @ $6400 US
3300 cc 120 hp @ $9450 US
All Engines are shipped fully insured and fitted complete with:-
Oil Cooler
Full exhaust system including in Cowl muffler
Starter and Starter Solenoid
Alternator and Voltage Regulator
VDO Oil Pressure Sender
VDO Oil Temperature Sender
Kindest regards
Ashley Johnston
Jabiru New Zealand (064) 3 302 7197
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
If I can ask, where did you order it from and what did it cost you.
Charlie Brame
6AQB, On the gear
San Antonio, TX
------------------------------------
> From: "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric DG
>
>
> As the others have said, you have very little choice, so I bought a Century
> NSD 1000 HSI, with the blessings of my patient wife of course. Will have an
> RC Allen ADI (attitude indicator) and an S-Tec 20. Be aware that RC Allen
> seems to be shipping only to the big guys; it might take me a year to get
> one.
>
> Mike Robbins
> RV8Q panel and wiring
> Seattle area
>
> > Here's a question to the list: I want to go with an all electric IFR
> > panel but am having difficulties trying to find an electric DG with a
> > heading bug for my S-Tec autopilot
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Rush <Gary.Rush(at)west.sun.com> |
| Subject: | Aluminum Land Gear |
Does anyone have experience with the aluminum landing gear for RVs that is sold
by a couple companies here in the San Diego area. Or just using third party
aluminum landing gear in general.
Thanks,
Gary Rush
RV8 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)AOL.COM |
Does anyone know whats the best place to buy Boeshield T - 9 in other than
spray cans???? Jim Brown, NJ, RV-3 & 4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition w/ one mag..problem??? |
Thank you. I couldn't see how the fact that the two sparks firing at
different times would translate into damage to the engine but I am also open
to learn new things which is why I presented the question to the LIST.
Every response, like yours, has verified my initial assessment.....the
firing order will have no negative effect on the engine.
Ross
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
> How pray tell would firing the mag late damage any thing. The burn has
> already been started and if very late would have nothing left to burn.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Why would I not want to use RG-59 coax cable? Or is it okay? I see AS&S
sells RG-48 and RG-400(I think). Which would I be better off using and
which would be okay? Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | I've come down from the mountain.... |
Well guys, I've heard from Matt(e) and it ain't good news......We're
failing. We're failing Matt(e). We're failing our friends and fellow
Listers. We're failing ourselves! Well I should amend that and say that
SOME OF US ARE FAILING THE REST OF US. Some of us are reaping the benefits
of this list and not helping to carry the load. You know who you are. I
don't have to name you. Sure you say you don't post anything, you're just
lurking. Just reading the little tidbits of information and RV lore that
come across the net. Heck, you're not even building. YET! You can't tell
me that just reading the list doesn't help you in some way. Or maybe you're
just using the archives. If nothing else, this list may help you decide
what type of experimental or RV type you will build. It may give you the
motivation to keep plugging along to finish your project and make that
first flight like Wes just did down in Texas. I would bet a bundle that Wes
has paid up for his use of this list and he hasn't asked many questions. In
fact I KNOW that Wes has paid up because I know Wes and have conversed with
him a lot off list because we met on this list. In fact nearly the whole
crowd that I camp with at Oshkosh and drink with at Oshkosh I met on this
list. Even if you don't see the value of the list now, someday it may
become your best way to meet new people who have the same two loves as
you...........flying........and RV's. We are a special group of builders
and flyers. I can't tell you how many times I have heard people say how
nice nearly all RV builders and pilots are. How about being a real true RV
kind of person and send Matt(e) a little something to say, "Thank
you". AFTER ALL...............TOMORROW IS
THANKSGIVING................Happy Thanksgiving to all of
you.................Happy Thanksgiving to Matt(e)................AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>Why would I not want to use RG-59 coax cable? Or is it okay? I see AS&S
>sells RG-48 and RG-400(I think). Which would I be better off using and
>which would be okay? Thanks!
>
>
For efficient power transfer the cable impedence should match the output
impedence of the transmitter, which is about 50 ohms in aircraft radios.
RG-59 is not 50 ohms so RG-58 is a better choice. All RG-58 is not equal.
Pay more to get better coax with better shielding.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying-ARS N5LP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
>All RG-58 is not equal.
> Pay more to get better coax with better shielding.
Really?
There is RG-58A and RG-58A/U. The first is not stranded and the second is.
For max reliability we should use stranded. Other than that, what is the
difference in the 'better' stuff? Is the coax readily available here in
Silicon Valley for use in computer networks better or worse? It is not as
expensive as that from the local avionics shop so what does that mean?
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum Land Gear |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Rush" <Gary.Rush(at)west.sun.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 5:09 PM
Subject: RV-List: Aluminum Land Gear
>
> Does anyone have experience with the aluminum landing gear for RVs that is
sold
> by a couple companies here in the San Diego area. Or just using third
party
> aluminum landing gear in general.
>
Gary, I have installed 2 sets of gear on RV8s from Grove.
The quality was great and we saved 23lbs. of wieght. My
concerns: The gear is thicker and does not fit in the stock
cutouts. I am also worried about what happens when you
bend one out in the middle of no where. These are custom made gear
and have no off the shelf replacements. The stock gear works
so good, I question the worth of 23lbs. If 23lbs were so important
We would all diet.TerryBurch (3 time offender)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 4:11 PM
Subject: RV-List: Electric DG
>
> Here's a question to the list: I want to go with an all electric IFR
My question is why does anyone want go all electric IFR. What do you do if
you
have smoke in the plane. also what do you do if you have gas in the
plane.Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
Charlie;
I paid $6700 from Pacific Coast Avionics, but that's without the harness. I
think Gulf Coast and the others charge about the same. I'm having them
build all my harnesses. Haven't gotten a price yet for the wiring. They
are pretty good about doing as much or as little as you want. They are
"relatively" close for me; an hour by air or four by auto. You probably
will want someone closer to you.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q panel & wiring
----- Original Message -----
From: Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net>
>
> If I can ask, where did you order it from and what did it cost you.
>
> Charlie Brame
> 6AQB, On the gear
> San Antonio, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Boeshield T - 9 |
I bought some gallon bottles at San Val. They advertise in trade-a-plane and
pacific flyer. 800-423-3281 or in California - 800 924-9658
Ed Holyoke
----- Original Message -----
From: <A20driver(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 2:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: Boeshield T - 9
>
> Does anyone know whats the best place to buy Boeshield T - 9 in other than
> spray cans???? Jim Brown, NJ, RV-3 & 4
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I remember Electric Bob mentioned RG400 in his seminar. I don't remember
the context though. Maybe it's in his book...
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Van Artsdalen,
> Scott
> Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 7:57 PM
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RV-List: Coax cable
>
>
>
>
> Why would I not want to use RG-59 coax cable? Or is it okay? I see AS&S
> sells RG-48 and RG-400(I think). Which would I be better off using and
> which would be okay? Thanks!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Terry Burch asked:
> My question is why does anyone want go all electric IFR. What do you >do
if you have smoke in the plane.
If you have a fire in flight, switch off the master first. Leave the gyros
on on their own independent circuit or as Electric Bob calls it, the
"essential buss". If that circuit is the source of smoke then it is
probably going to go anyway, I think. I haven't worked it all out but my
experince with vacuum gyros is that they suck. They fail so often that one
always knows what to do about it. Does anyone other than us smallest
airplanes have vacuum systems?
One could have a backup vac system.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition w/ one mag..problem??? |
FWIW: I have almost 400 hours on my 320 with Lightspeed/ mag combo. Has
worked well and no "engine damage" as far as I know. I don't think Klaus
would be selling so many of these units if they caused engine damage!
As for the test period.... I was assigned a 25 hour test period... but who
cares? (If it is the unit that you want, go for it)
Walt RV- 6A N79WH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition w/ one mag..problem??? |
I agree with Walt. I have 600+ hours on a Lightspeed system with one mag and
no failures, but remember that unless you fly above 8000 feet an electronic
ignition is really not going to give you any performance gains and if you're
going to run a wooden prop you'll probably need to get a Harmonic balancer if
you want your engine to idle in the 600's.
There simply is not enough enertia with a 12-14 lb wooden prop.
One mans opinion
Tom McIntyre
RV3 978TM 1700+ hours so far
Rvator97(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> FWIW: I have almost 400 hours on my 320 with Lightspeed/ mag combo. Has
> worked well and no "engine damage" as far as I know. I don't think Klaus
> would be selling so many of these units if they caused engine damage!
> As for the test period.... I was assigned a 25 hour test period... but who
> cares? (If it is the unit that you want, go for it)
>
> Walt RV- 6A N79WH
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Cheap Digital Compass - That Works |
I've gotten some responses to my post and apparently didn't include enough
details. My post was long enough already. The version I bought was the
V550 - Copilot.
http://www.precisionnavigation.com/v500main.html
It is a step up from the V500 which only reads in 5 degree increments, no
big deal. But the 550 also includes a countup countdown timer, for an extra
10 bucks. The 550 is what Sam's club has.
Don Mei
N92CT RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com> |
>
> Why would I not want to use RG-59 coax cable? Or is it okay? I see AS&S
> sells RG-48 and RG-400(I think). Which would I be better off using and
> which would be okay? Thanks!
>
Scott:
The RG-400 has a double outer braided shield (silver plated, no less) and the
central core insulator is teflon, I believe. More importantly the central
conductor is stranded rather than a solid wire. Piper learned the hard way that
solid wire central conductors sheathed in soft plastic insulator will eventually
(given the constant motion & vibration of an airplane) migrate thru the central
insulator where the cable is bent and short to the outer shield. You definitely
want braided central conductor no mater what coax you buy. The RG-400 is top of
the line in every respect. I bought the cable & the connectors from Electric
Bob. (don't try to use normal RG-58 connectors on it - on they don't fit over
the double shield.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Inexpensive Electronic Compass |
I don't recall seeing an answer to this. The model V550 is shown with 2xAA
batteries for power on their www site. I guess one could wire this to the
panel. In any event, what will the inspector say about this, what happens
when the lights go out. I think having the whiskey compass may be a good
idea, particularly in IFR ships. A portable GPS as a back up would be a
wise investment IMHO as you can get direction from it when all else fails.
Marty in Brentwood TN.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 11:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Inexpensive Electronic Compass
>
> > I finally threw out my Whiskey compass about 2 weeks ago. After sitting
on
> > the phone with a couple of electronic compass mfgs I settled on
Precision
> > Navigation's products. (precisionnavigation.com)
>
> What do ya do if the power goes away. Is there a battery backup?
>
> Chuck Weyant
> RV9A - right tank almost ready to close
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
Terry:
I agree that vacuum/electric provides a neat redundant package. I actually
have this setup on my RV-4. But on my RV-6 I'm going with two independent
electrical systems and replacing the vacuum pump with a small B&C
alternator. I need dual electric redundancy anyway because I'm going with
dual electronic ignition on an O-360. I think you're going to see general
aviation migrate in this direction. (See Bob Nuckoll's book.) Besides, all
the corporate jets I have ever flown are all electric. I remember when
there was a big uproar over the concept of an all-EFIS cockpit. What
happens when you have a total electric failure? I think the reliability of
all electric has pretty much been accepted now by the industry. Just one
man's opinion.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hours TT
O-320, Hartzell C/S
RV-6, Fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 7:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric DG
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 4:11 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Electric DG
>
>
> >
> > Here's a question to the list: I want to go with an all electric IFR
>
>
> My question is why does anyone want go all electric IFR. What do you do if
> you
> have smoke in the plane. also what do you do if you have gas in the
> plane.Terry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Fuse access - RV-4 |
Fellow Listers:
At the risk of opening up another can of worms, a question on fuse access.
I have designed my electrical system similar to Bob Nuckolls approach using
two automotive fuse blocks that he sells. My current design has these
residing under an electrical control "box" mounted on the RHS of my RV-4
cockpit. I have already made the unit and it does not provide access to
these fuse blocks without removing the outer panel held in place with about
a dozen screws and nutplates. Do you think the typical DAR would require
these fuses to be accessible in flight (in other words, do I have to build
an access door?)
Thanks
Doug Weiler
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cheap Digital Compass - That Works |
Garmin has a new tiny GPS for marine and hiker use called the eTrex Summit
that includes an electronic compass and altimeter. I think it retails for
around $300.
www.garmin.com/products/etrexsummit/
Terry Watson
RV-8A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Connectors for instruments |
> Another question; where is the best and most
> economically place to get the, terminal connectors
> for the wiring of panel..
"Best" and "most economical" are two different things. You don't want to put
cheap auto terminals or wiring in your airplane! They're not cheap, but you
want to use AMP PIDG terminals or equivalent and aircraft grade Tefzel
coated wire. To find out more than you ever wanted to know about why, go
http://www.aeroelectric.com, or http://terminaltown.com. Both of these are
also great sources for aircraft electrical terminals and other
wiring/electronic stuff. And buy the Aeroelectric Connection book before
doing any wiring. It's a great primer on aircraft electrical systems.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Hatwell <RV8OR(at)overvne.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Engine Sump Heating Pads |
Listers
Comments good and bad on engine sump heating pads for cold weather
operation
Thanks
--
Rob Hatwell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cheap Digital Compass - That Works |
>
> Garmin quote...........
>
> "The electronic compass provides bearing information when you're
> STANDING STILL and the altimeter determines precise altitude, so you can
> tell how high you've climbed and your rate of ascent."
>
>
> From their website.....why does one have to stand still...why does
> garmin specifically mention this....I land, I stop, I take a bearing,
> and i take off again ???
> Of yeah, isn't your rate off ascent zero when you are standing still ??
>
> Honestly though, it looks like a great handy device !!
>
> Gert
I am quite certain that the reason that they say that it will give you your
bearing "while your are standing still" is because a GPS only will not. GPS
can tell you what direction you are moving, but has no way without movement
to know what direction you are facing. Think their sales pitch as if you
are a hiker or a climber and it will make more sense. As for rate of climb,
I would be surprised if this little gadget would work as an aircraft
vertical velocity indicator.
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)win.bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Sump Heating Pads |
They RULE up here in Northern Wisconsin!
Scott
Rob Hatwell wrote:
>
>
> Listers
>
> Comments good and bad on engine sump heating pads for cold weather
> operation
>
> Thanks
> --
> Rob Hatwell
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuse access - RV-4 |
>
>Fellow Listers:
>
>At the risk of opening up another can of worms, a question on fuse access.
>I have designed my electrical system similar to Bob Nuckolls approach using
>two automotive fuse blocks that he sells. My current design has these
>residing under an electrical control "box" mounted on the RHS of my RV-4
>cockpit. I have already made the unit and it does not provide access to
>these fuse blocks without removing the outer panel held in place with about
>a dozen screws and nutplates. Do you think the typical DAR would require
>these fuses to be accessible in flight (in other words, do I have to build
>an access door?)
>
>Thanks
>
>Doug Weiler
>
Doug,
I can't predict what the initial reaction of the DAR will be, but I
can suggest how you can work the issue. If he objects, point him at
FAR 23.1357(d), which states:
(d) If the ability to reset a circuit breaker or replace a fuse is
essential to safety in flight, that circuit breaker or fuse must be
so located and identified that it can be readily reset or replaced in
flight.
The clear implication is that if the ability to reset a fuse or CB is
not essential to safety, then it does not have to be accessible for
type certificated light aircraft. If a non-accessible fuse panel is
good enough for FAR 23 aircraft, then it must be good enough for us
(from a regulatory point of view). I'll side step the philosophical
issue of whether you should be installing a non-accessible fuse
panel, as you didn't ask that question).
What does essential to safety in flight mean? Well, I work in the
FAR 25 transport category type certification world, and for us it
means that if that fuse blew, you would still have all the equipment
you needed to navigate, communicate, keep the engine running, and fly
to a diversion airfield in the worst case weather conditions you are
approved to operate (i.e. night IFR, if your aircraft would be so
approved). Given that a fuse could blow because the smoke escaped
from something, you need to meet this criteria for every system to
have a safe operation anyway.
FAR 23.1357 is available on the web at:
http://www3.landings.com/cgi-bin/get_file?pass=12345&FAR/part_23/section_23.1357.html
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon Robertson <gordon(at)safemail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tempo spray can chromate |
I tried to use the Tempo zinc oxide primer for my RV-4. I chose the
spray can because I did not want to be troubled with the mixing of the
two
part primers. The paint itself works well, but I continually had
problems
with the can clogging up before 1/3 of the paint was used. I tried
changing
spray valves, shaking the can more thoroughly before spraying, heating
the
can mildly with a heat gun; nothing worked. I attempted to contact
Tempo
several times but got no response. By the time I was done with one wing
I
stopped buying the stuff
Hi all,
I have been using the Tempo zinc oxide for the same reason -
convenience. I bought a batch of 8 from Spruce and all worked fine.
Then, the next batch of 8 cans, 5 of them did the same clogging trick.
In general within the first 5 seconds of spraying. Feels like
something clogging up the pickup tube, nothing works to unclog them. I
have just bought another batch of 8 cans, so we will see.
Advantage: convenience of being able to touch up, spray just a small
part, etc. when you want to. I am priming the ribs and the inside of
the skins where the ribs touch, but not the rest of the skins. Alclad
is great and should prevent corrosion as advertised.
Gordon Robertson
YES!!! just finished first wing on -8 sb.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prince Composite Props... |
I had a Prince 68x80 for my 0-360 and it was nice I purchased a sensenich
72x84 metal the new 180 hp prop not any difference that would be measureable
the Prince prop was a lot smoother with the landoll balancer but look out the
cost gets up there when you add the extention and the balancer, and the prop.
The sensenich starts to look pretty good price wise. The hesitation will
go away on finial when you add a little power with Sensenich do to the
inertia created by the additional 14 lbs or so you get when you add the
sensenich prop . Other benifits include no more seasonal re-tighten of the
prop bolts , refinishing except for the tips will be about the only
matainance you will have to do other than waxing.
Pat N314EP RV-6-A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Cheap Digital Compass - That Works |
In a message dated 11/23/2000 4:16:22 PM Eastern Standard Time,
bcbraem(at)home.com writes:
> > "The electronic compass provides bearing information when you're
> > STANDING STILL and the altimeter determines precise altitude, so you can
> > tell how high you've climbed and your rate of ascent."
> >
> > >From their website.....why does one have to stand still...why does
> >
A GPS-only unit can't calculate your direction of travel when you are not in
motion, but (their point is) with the flux-gate compass feature, you can get
directional info from the eTrex Summit _even when you are standing still_.
BTW, check eBay for seemingly endless simultaneous auctions of this unit; a
good place to snag one far below street price.
Looking, but not buying yet...
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP
Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Sump Heating Pads |
>
> Comments good and bad on engine sump heating pads for cold weather
> operation
>
> Thanks
> --
> Rob Hatwell
Rob,
I have used three E-Z Heat oil pan heaters over the years on my Cessna 180,
Citabria, and now RV-4. They are thermostatically controlled and work as
advertised. I leave the heater plugged in all the time with the cowling
wrapped and plugged with a big heavy moving blanket. The other day it was
20 degrees in my unheated hangar and the CHT as measured on an EI engine
analyzer was 58 degrees F. The engine starts immediately and I am confident
the engine was been adequately warmed.
Doug
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Found: R/C Plans for RV-4 |
I don't know if everyone knows this already, but I just found a set of R/C
plans for a RV-4. It has a 92" wing span, so it is fairly large. If anyone
is interested, log on to www.rcstore.com, go under 'plans', and search for
RV-4. I just ordered a set today and thought others may be interested.
Happy Building
-Mike
Left wing complete, right wing 30% complete, fuse kit on the way!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Sump Heating Pads |
Rob,
I have no practical expenrience with heat pads but all of my readings say
they're good. I do recall LPM suggested not to use the dipstick kind, all
else are ok.
Anh
N985VU -6
>
>Listers
>
>Comments good and bad on engine sump heating pads for cold weather
>operation
>
>Thanks
>--
>Rob Hatwell
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Sump Heating Pads |
Comments good and bad on engine sump heating pads for cold weather
>operation
If you are exposed to cold weather, don't leave home without one. I also
leave mine plugged in all the time in the cold months (but I also fly a
lot) with a blanket over the cowl and the front air inlets plugged with
part of the blanket. This keeps the oil hot as well as warming the rest of
the engine. I suppose the cylinder heater rings would be useful, too, but I
find the blanket and oil heater to work very well. And, when I am not at
home, I can usually find and outlet somewhere and plug it in for an hour or
so and get things warmed up before asking the engine to grind away. No
preheater needed in moderately cold environs. Anything to keep the ol' girl
warm and happy. After three years, no maintenance problems with the system.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Year three as of today...and The Grin is only getting wider.......how did
my ears get way over here.......................
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel shock mounts or not |
>Question: how to shock mount the gyros....
>
I bought some of the standard shockmount rubber gizzies from, what, Cessna,
maybe; it was a long time ago. I didn't like them for several reasons: The
stuck out too far out of the shock panel and were secured by a nut; They
put the shock panel too far in front of the main panel; they had too much
flex up and down. And they were ugly.
So: don't tell anyone, but I made my own out of rubber test tube stoppers.
Brass screw through shock panel into 1/4 inch or so of stopper, screw on
through main panel, through half inch or so of stopper, brass washer, brass
nuts, jam-locked. Isolates the panel enough without looking stupid. 6
screws and stoppers (one in each corner, two in the middle) support a shock
panel with 6 flight/engine instruments. Orient the stoppers narrow end aft,
fat end forward. No problems with this setup in 460 hours and it looks
great. Well, I think so, anyway.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
I LIKE this panel...................
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Directional Gyro |
hey will, i've got a brand-new (only unwrapped for inspection) sigma-tek
4000b-30 from gulf coast that i rendered useless after buying one with an
auto-pilot interface and heading bug. first 400 plus shipping(about 20$)
gets it....
i need an artificial horizon to replace the one in my cherokee and they wont
give me much for trade.
>I want a Sigma-Tek directional gyro (vacuum type). Spruce's current
>price of $525 is considerably more than the $469 in my 1999 catalogue.
>Does anyone know of a source with a lower price? I couldn't find it in
>Van's online catalogue. Thanks for any help.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Inexpensive Electronic Compass |
Emrath wrote:
> I don't recall seeing an answer to this. The model V550 is shown with 2xAA
> batteries for power on their www site. I guess one could wire this to the
> panel. In any event, what will the inspector say about this, what happens
> when the lights go out.
The obvious answer is to leave the batteries in, and have a diode so
that the batteries don't do anything unless the 12V goes off.
> I think having the whiskey compass may be a good
> idea, particularly in IFR ships. A portable GPS as a back up would be a
> wise investment IMHO as you can get direction from it when all else fails.
A GPS won't show heading, it shows ground track. It might be hard to
maintain an accurate heading if you only have ground track and no view
of the ground.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nick Nafsinger" <rvator(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Nebraska builders? |
I'm just starting on mine (just starting... like buying tools / tail kit and
waiting for it to warm up...). Not really looking to buy a compleat
airplane, I'm one of the ones that "gets to build" not has to. However, if
you want ot pass on the details of the one you want for sale I would be
happy to pass them on.
Thanks!
Nick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jsu24osu(at)AOL.COM
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 5:36 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV6-List: Nebraska builders?
Nick,
I'm not in Nebraska but saw your note. Don't know if you have a 6 yet or
just
wanting one. I have two, one almost ready for paint and another with a lot
built. Sort of a super quick build kit which I need to sell. All work done
is
top rate and will not take second place to many 6's. Price is right.
Let me if you might be interested or past it along if you know someone
looking for a good jump start.
Joe Underwood
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Sump Heating Pads |
| From: | Wes Hays <whays(at)juno.com> |
I put the Reiff Hotpad on my engine. It works great. They are RV folks
and are just super to deal with.
Wes Hays
Rotan, TX
RV6-A, 0-360 w/CS (Hartzell)
N844WB, Flying
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Inexpensive Electronic Compass |
Is there regulation stating the instrument can't work off batteries? If 2
AAAs will drive it for 200 hours and it shuts itself off after 10 minutes
couldn't you just change the batteries at regular intervals, like at 50 or
100 hour inspections?
Dennis Thomas
RV-9A beginner-wannabe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Biddle" <dbiddle(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | GNS-430 tray and prewire price |
I have a quote for a Garmin GNS 430 mounting tray and required prewiring and
want some feedback from anyone who has a similar unit.
The price for the tray is $250 and the prewiring is another $250.
The prewire consists of the wiring and connector to connect it to the CDI
and labled wires that I will solder to the RMI microencoder connector with
the transponder wires.
I thought $150 was high for the Garmin GTX-320 tray that I got from Spruce
eight months ago. There are many more connections for the GNS 430 so maybe
$250 / +$250 is not an unreasonable price.
What have others paid for similar trays and prewiring?
Dave Biddle
Phoenix, AZ
RV6A - getting the wiring done before riviting the top skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Inexpensive Electronic Compass |
Which model did you settle on? And what are its dimensions. The VM-500
seems to be the smaller, but the VM-1000 has some extra features that
look interesting also.
Charlie Brame
RV6A QB, On the gear
San Antonio
-----------------------------------
> From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Inexpensive Electronic Compass
>
>
> In response to :
> _______
> Beware the "cheap" digital compasses...I called the manufacturer of one
> and>he was firm on not using in an airplane because they are not designed
> for>the>constant pitch, yaw, and roll movements of rcraft...it has to do
> with the>orientation of their sensors...
>
> I finally threw out my Whiskey compass about 2 weeks ago. After sitting on
> the phone with a couple of electronic compass mfgs I settled on Precision
> Navigation's products. (precisionnavigation.com) One interesting topic
> included the relatively inexpensive single axis versus more expensive multi
> axis sensors. The multi axis sensors are useful in a boat or something like
> that which pitches. They are however WORSE than useless in an airplane.
> When an airplane pitches the multi axis system will compensate, but when an
> airplane rolls the "gravity" force that the compass feels stays
> perpindicular to the floor of the airplane, it won't truly point down.
> (i.e. top of a loop, down to the compass is up) He therefore just
> suggested their simple single axis compass with the caution that accuracy
> would suffer when not level. (just like a regular compass, except
> electronic compasses are not affected by acceleration) Incidentally, he
> also to ld me this is the same technology they sell to the military for
> $1000+. I was about to order it over the phone for $59, when the gentleman
> said, "hay, is there a Sam's Club near you, because we just sold thousands
> of these to Sam's." Down to Sams I went, $29 later I had a state of the art
> Compass.
>
> ---------snip-----------
>
> Don Mei
> RV-4 N92CT
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Inexpensive Electronic Compass |
> A GPS won't show heading, it shows ground track. It might be hard to
> maintain an accurate heading if you only have ground track and no view
> of the ground.
>
> Frank.
Never tried, but seems like unless the winds are shifting, it would pose no
problem to maintain a heading based on ground track information. Besides,
it's the ground track that ultimately gets you where you need to go, is it
not?
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/FP Sensenich
Hop-Along Airfield - 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
H pistons 9 to 1 made my O320A2B much stronger but now I must use 100
LL. I don't know how this will affect TBO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Directional Gyro |
If you have not sold it yet I am interested.
Thanks
Rollie & Rod
RV6A Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tip up canopy warning switch |
DON
radio shack part # 275-016A for the submini lever switch, and part # 272-337A
for the green light, also get a red light, i don't have that part # handy but
it should be right next to the green light at radio shack. the switch is a
single pole double throw, so when the canopy is open you have a red light,
when it is closed yo have a green light. you could mount it in a number of
places, I'm going with behind the seat where the latch catches the roller.
hope this helps
Scott
Tampa
rv6a wiring, and wiring, and wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: e-bay check it out |
Aircraft Avionics Terra Nav/Com w/glideslope
Item #508205664
not digital, but new,
scott
tampa, rv6a wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | tip up canopy warning switch |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Thanks Scott:
I have a button type. I will go get it & see if I can figure how to mount
it.
Don Jordan RV6A Arlington, Tx *** send $ to Matt, it November ***
*****************************************
>
> DON
> radio shack part # 275-016A for the submini lever switch, and part #
> 272-337A for the green light, also get a red light, i don't have that
part #
> handy but it should be right next to the green light at radio shack.
the
> switch is a single pole double throw, so when the canopy is open you
have a red
> light, when it is closed yo have a green light. you could mount it in
a
> number of places, I'm going with behind the seat where the latch
catches the
> roller.
> hope this helps
> Scott
> Tampa
> rv6a wiring, and wiring, and wiring
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tip up canopy warning switch |
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
Date: Friday, November 24, 2000 4:08 PM
Subject: RV-List: tip up canopy warning switch
>the
>> switch is a single pole double throw, so when the canopy is open you
>have a red
>> light, when it is closed yo have a green light. you could mount it in
>a
>> number of places, I'm going with behind the seat where the latch
>catches the
>> roller.
>> hope this helps
>> Scott
>> Tampa
>> rv6a wiring, and wiring, and wiring
>
Could you be a bit more explicit in how/where you mount the switch? I
wanted to install one myself but could not figure out a way to do it that
could not generate a false positive latch signal. If its switched by the
latch tip then the latch can be engaged with the canopy still up. If its
switched by the roller arm, the arm can be down with the latch tip not
engaged. It sure seemed difficult to me to devise a foolproof switch layout.
I now rely on a checklist.
My mentor taught me a graphical pre-takeoff check list method: I start with
the latch handle on the right, then move up and over the panel from left to
right, touching each switch and naming its position; then I go down and go
from right to left along the lower bank of switches, controls and fuel
selector. I find this to be very effective. I am rewriting my written
checklists to follow a consistent graphical loop as now that I've learned
this method I really like it.
Dennis Persyk N600DP 6A O360A1A/Hartzell 15 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Cheap Digital Compass - That Works |
Re: what if you lose power on cheap electronic compass,
Precision Navigation V550
The compass runs for two hundred hours on the AA bats. I'm already carrying
tons of spare AAs for my Lightspeed headset and handheld gps, so whats one
more item. It also shuts itsself off it it doesn't sense any movement for
15 minutes. Change the bats twice per year whether it needs it or not and
you have a fine compass for IFR situations. I preferred it over the Ritchie
remote mount PRECISELY BECAUSE it does not depend on ships power to
function, just like a whiskey compass.
Regards,
Don Mei
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Velvick" <rver(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GNS-430 tray and prewire price |
> RV6A - getting the wiring done before riviting the top skins
Dave, after you get all of those wires in under the panel, are you going to
have any room to get in there to buck those rivets?
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rv-6a (installing canopy)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 23, 2000 12:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric DG
>
> Terry:
>
> I agree that vacuum/electric provides a neat redundant package. I
actually
> have this setup on my RV-4. But on my RV-6 I'm going with two independent
> electrical systems and replacing the vacuum pump with a small B&C
> alternator. I need dual electric redundancy anyway because I'm going with
> dual electronic ignition on an O-360. I think you're going to see general
> aviation migrate in this direction. (See Bob Nuckoll's book.) Besides,
all
> the corporate jets I have ever flown are all electric. I remember when
> there was a big uproar over the concept of an all-EFIS cockpit. What
> happens when you have a total electric failure? I think the reliability
of
> all electric has pretty much been accepted now by the industry. Just one
> man's opinion.
This is great in proffesionaly designed and built jets. But jets dont have
fuel
in the cockpit. If everyone is worried about vacuum pumps, replace them
every 500 hrs.Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
Are you referring to an H2AD or an A2B. I am about to rebuild an 0-320-A2b
and my engine guy says that you can't put high compression pistons in it.
Dennis Thomas
RV-9A Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GNS-430 tray and prewire price |
Dave,
How much did the GNS 430 set you back?
Ed Holyoke
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Biddle" <dbiddle(at)wans.net>
Sent: Friday, November 24, 2000 7:23 AM
Subject: RV-List: GNS-430 tray and prewire price
>
> I have a quote for a Garmin GNS 430 mounting tray and required prewiring
and
> want some feedback from anyone who has a similar unit.
> The price for the tray is $250 and the prewiring is another $250.
> The prewire consists of the wiring and connector to connect it to the CDI
> and labled wires that I will solder to the RMI microencoder connector with
> the transponder wires.
>
> I thought $150 was high for the Garmin GTX-320 tray that I got from Spruce
> eight months ago. There are many more connections for the GNS 430 so maybe
> $250 / +$250 is not an unreasonable price.
>
> What have others paid for similar trays and prewiring?
>
> Dave Biddle
> Phoenix, AZ
> RV6A - getting the wiring done before riviting the top skins
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)AOL.COM |
Folks,
I have the fuel selector switch from Vans. From what I've seen, everyone
seems to plumb the selector..........left tank/right tank/off. If the front
plug is removed and replaced with a tee, you can run short loops to tees in
the left and right side inlets. This gives you a 4th option.........BOTH. I
feel like there may be advantages to this..........like not switching tanks
and uniform flow.........but also don't want to change an already proven
design. Have others done
this...........advantages.....disadvantages..............or am I missing
something?
Thanks in advance.
Rick Gray RV6QB (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: fuel selector |
In a message dated 11/24/00 10:05:55 PM Eastern Standard Time,
RGray67968(at)AOL.COM writes:
> ,
> I have the fuel selector switch from Vans. From what I've seen,
> everyone
> seems to plumb the selector..........left tank/right tank/off. If the front
> plug is removed and replaced with a tee, you can run short loops to tees in
> the left and right side inlets. This gives you a 4th option.........BOTH. I
> feel like there may be advantages to this..........like not switching tanks
> and uniform flow.........but also don't want to change an already proven
> design. Have others done
> this...........advantages.....disadvantages..............or am I missing
> something?
> Thanks in advance.
>
Rick,
Check the archives on this. There is lots in there. In the final analysis,
this modification will greatly increase you chances of becoming an accidental
glider pilot.
Why? Because when you get dissimilar flow rates between tanks (you will),
one tank will empty faster than the other. When the first tank runs dry,
your fuel system will start sucking air, not fuel.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel selector |
Hi Rick
This has been discussed in the past. I suggest you try the archives to see
what you can find, but the bottom line is that a "both" position will not
work in RV's or apparently any other low wing aircraft that requires fuel
pumps. What seems to happen is the fuel feeds from only one tank and will
not feed all the fuel. A friend of mine tried this with his first RV6 and
changed back to left, right off.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
Subject: RV-List: fuel selector
>
> Folks,
> I have the fuel selector switch from Vans. From what I've seen,
everyone
> seems to plumb the selector..........left tank/right tank/off. If the
front
> plug is removed and replaced with a tee, you can run short loops to tees
in
> the left and right side inlets. This gives you a 4th option.........BOTH.
I
> feel like there may be advantages to this..........like not switching
tanks
> and uniform flow.........but also don't want to change an already proven
> design. Have others done
> this...........advantages.....disadvantages..............or am I missing
> something?
> Thanks in advance.
> Rick Gray RV6QB (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Soldering Battery Cable Terminals |
To cut down on my tool expense, I have tried to solder my battery cable
terminals onto the 2 gauge wire. I used the technique outlined by
Aeroelectric Connection in one of their articles. I have not been able to
get the solder to flow between the cable and the terminal barrel. The
solder pools up and runs over the side of the terminal rather than "wicking"
through the terminal. I have tried different orientations, but no luck.
Has anyone been successful with this method? Also, are their low cost
crimpers out their capable of handling a terminal this size? I have seen a
hammer driven crimper advertised on the net for $27.00, but they do not
respond to my e-mail queries.
Ted Lumpkin
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRGSCHMIDT(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Soldering Battery Cable Terminals |
It sounds like you are not getting the terminal hot enough. Try using a torch
and get that material hot enough to melt the solder and it will flow.
Greg Schmidt
Canopies and wiring
two RV6-S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lee <borgny(at)rconnect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Soldering Battery Cable Terminals |
Ted Lumpkin wrote:
> You wrote:
> To cut down on my tool expense, I have tried to solder my battery cable
> terminals onto the 2 gauge wire. I used the technique outlined by
> Aeroelectric Connection in one of their articles. I have not been able to
> get the solder to flow between the cable and the terminal barrel. The
> solder pools up and runs over the side of the terminal rather than "wicking"
> through the terminal. I have tried different orientations, but no luck.
> Has anyone been successful with this method? Also, are their low cost
> crimpers out their capable of handling a terminal this size? I have seen a
> hammer driven crimper advertised on the net for $27.00, but they do not
> respond to my e-mail queries.
>
> Ted Lumpkin
> RV-4
I used a Bernzomatic (sp?) torch and it worked well. We however, must realize
that soldering is not the best method of connecting terminals due to breakage.
John Lee
waiting for warm weather to paint
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Biddle" <dbiddle(at)hdtd.com> |
| Subject: | GNS-430 tray and prewire price |
The quote on the 430 is $5855. By the time I put a GPS/com and Nav com or
some other device that will let me do precision approaches, I was close to
or above the cost of the Garmin 430. As mentioned, the tray and prewiring
are quoted at $250 each, a used GPS CDI head (with glideslope) is another
$500, So total hit is $6855. The 530, with a 2" larger screen is $4000
more!!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Holyoke
Sent: Friday, November 24, 2000 8:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: GNS-430 tray and prewire price
Dave,
How much did the GNS 430 set you back?
Ed Holyoke
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Biddle" <dbiddle(at)wans.net>
Sent: Friday, November 24, 2000 7:23 AM
Subject: RV-List: GNS-430 tray and prewire price
>
> I have a quote for a Garmin GNS 430 mounting tray and required prewiring
and
> want some feedback from anyone who has a similar unit.
> The price for the tray is $250 and the prewiring is another $250.
> The prewire consists of the wiring and connector to connect it to the CDI
> and labled wires that I will solder to the RMI microencoder connector with
> the transponder wires.
>
> I thought $150 was high for the Garmin GTX-320 tray that I got from Spruce
> eight months ago. There are many more connections for the GNS 430 so maybe
> $250 / +$250 is not an unreasonable price.
>
> What have others paid for similar trays and prewiring?
>
> Dave Biddle
> Phoenix, AZ
> RV6A - getting the wiring done before riviting the top skins
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary S." <gstrong(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Soldering Battery Cable Terminals |
You might also make sure the wire and terminal are really clean. Unless
you've wire brushed (lightly) the wire and inside of the terminal there is a
small oxidant on top of the copper that doesn't allow it to accept solder
well. The flux is supposed to clean this, but I always have much better
luck if I wire brush all contact areas first.
Gary S. RV6AQB - controls
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tip up canopy warning switch |
use 2 switches and wire the light in series. one on the roller the other on
the latch.
scott
tampa rv6a wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | tip up canopy warning switch |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
If you want both worlds, we need two switches in series. I wish now I
hadn't installed the light.
I could quit. If I can find a switch, I am planning on the locking rod.
The spams don't have them.
Don Jordan RV6A Arlington, Tx *** send $ to Matt, it November ***
*****************************************
writes:
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, November 24, 2000 4:08 PM
> Subject: RV-List: tip up canopy warning switch
>
> >the
> >> switch is a single pole double throw, so when the canopy is open
> you
> >have a red
> >> light, when it is closed yo have a green light. you could mount
> it in
> >a
> >> number of places, I'm going with behind the seat where the latch
> >catches the
> >> roller.
> >> hope this helps
> >> Scott
> >> Tampa
> >> rv6a wiring, and wiring, and wiring
> >
> Could you be a bit more explicit in how/where you mount the switch?
> I
> wanted to install one myself but could not figure out a way to do it
> that
> could not generate a false positive latch signal. If its switched
> by the
> latch tip then the latch can be engaged with the canopy still up.
> If its
> switched by the roller arm, the arm can be down with the latch tip
> not
> engaged. It sure seemed difficult to me to devise a foolproof switch
> layout.
> I now rely on a checklist.
>
> My mentor taught me a graphical pre-takeoff check list method: I
> start with
> the latch handle on the right, then move up and over the panel from
> left to
> right, touching each switch and naming its position; then I go down
> and go
> from right to left along the lower bank of switches, controls and
> fuel
> selector. I find this to be very effective. I am rewriting my
> written
> checklists to follow a consistent graphical loop as now that I've
> learned
> this method I really like it.
>
> Dennis Persyk N600DP 6A O360A1A/Hartzell 15 hours
> Hampshire, IL C38
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Soldering Battery Cable Terminals |
> To cut down on my tool expense, I have tried to solder my battery
cable
> terminals onto the 2 gauge wire. I used the technique outlined by
> Aeroelectric Connection in one of their articles. I have not been able to
> get the solder to flow between the cable and the terminal barrel. The
> solder pools up and runs over the side of the terminal rather than
"wicking"
> through the terminal. I have tried different orientations, but no luck.
> Has anyone been successful with this method? Also, are their low cost
> crimpers out their capable of handling a terminal this size? I have seen
a
> hammer driven crimper advertised on the net for $27.00, but they do not
> respond to my e-mail queries.
>
> Ted Lumpkin
> RV-4
Ted,
You can find the hammer driven type at West Marine, I can't remember the
price, but it works surprisingly well. I crimped with this tool then
soldered all of my connections 8 ga. and heavier... worked great. This way
you have both a mechanical (crimp) and solder connection to back it up.
Don't want those puppies vibrating loose some day.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, painting 2nd wing today, not gonna be a show plane
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Serge Boucher" <serge.boucher4(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | RVCanada-List: Experimental Aircarft Accident in Hull |
From the local paper the aircraft was a Zenith Zodiac 601out of Rockcliffe
Airport. The pilot aged 67 had thousands of hours of experience. The
accident happened shortly after take-off in clear weather around 3:00pm.
The aircraft was a recently acquired ultralight with 23 hours of flight.
Preliminary indications point to engine difficulty. Under difficult
circumstances, avoiding a church and a school, the pilot was attempting to
land on a street in downtown Hull. No one on the ground was hurt. The
pilot's experience and professionalism were noted in the paper.
Serge Boucher
C-GRVB RV6
___________
Does anyone know the type of aircraft that was involved in the accident
yesterday?
I only heard it was experimental and that 2 people was fatally injured. It
took place in Hull.
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rush <krush(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | e-mail address change |
Please change my e-mail address to: K9HXT(at)msn.com
Thanks,
Larry Rush, old....krush(at)iquest.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Panel shock mounts or not |
In a message dated 11/24/00 8:10:01 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ebowhay(at)jetstream.net writes:
<< It is important to use the correct shock mounts >>
Eustace: This may be a dumb question but what are the correct shock mounts
to use? If I recall the shock and vibration stuff correctly it is possible
to make the problem worse instead of better if you choose the wrong mounts.
Since your installation has worked successfully for nine years I want to use
what you did.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Soldering Battery Cable Terminals |
I used the hammer crimper on my #2 starter wire (was done on the airplane for
some reason I have forgotten) and soldered the other large battery wires. At
the first annual, the wire was loose inside the hammer crimp. The starter
didn't seem to notice, however. I bit the bullet and soldered it protecting
everything with flame shields.
I soldered my #2 (battery, starter and ground wires), #6 (master to
distribution bus), and the #8 to the vital bus. If you solder correctly, the
first inch away from the terminal may become solid, however the wires
themselves are so stiff that it makes no difference. The places where these
large wires are subject to movement need to have flexibility designed into
them. To give flexibility allow 4-6 inches minimum (and a bend, if
possible), between the part and the first hard tiedown. Soldering the
smaller wires does result in broken wires if not done with the proper care
and design of the wire runs. One place you do not want to scrimp is on
crimp-on terminals and the crimper. Pay the money now, or forever be chasing
wire problems.
To get the joint to work, clean the inside of the terminal with a wire brush
and immediately swab with flux. You need a lot of heat, I used a propane
torch with Mapp gas. The solder will eventually flow, just take your time.
The insulation will probably pull back some, just slip on some heat shrink
and cover it up.
Bruce Patton
-6A, 180 hours and loving it
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Soldering Battery Cables |
I put the Nr2 cable into the appropriate end terminal after putting some
solder paste on the wire and then squeezed it in the shop bench vise..very
tightly....then used a small propane torch to solder it. No trouble with any
such connections....cheaper than a dedicated squeezer!
RV6A Flying Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
>>I think the reliability of all electric has pretty much been accepted
>>now by the industry. Just one man's opinion.
>
> This is great in proffesionaly designed and built jets. But jets dont
> have fuel in the cockpit. If everyone is worried about vacuum pumps,
> replace them every 500 hrs.Terry
I'm having trouble following your argument. Are you saying that if there's a
fuel leak in the cockpit you should turn off the master and fly solely by
the vacum gyros so as to avoid igniton by a spark or something? Wouldn't
shutting off the master, or shutting off anything for that matter,
potentially create the very spark you'd be trying to avoid?
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Inexpensive Electronic Compass |
> Is there regulation stating the instrument can't work off batteries?
No.
> If 2
> AAAs will drive it for 200 hours and it shuts itself off after 10 minutes
> couldn't you just change the batteries at regular intervals, like at 50 or
> 100 hour inspections?
Makes sense to me. I frankly don't get the arguments against replacing a
whiskey compass with an electronic. Sure the whiskey compass is reliable and
doesn't need batteries. But it's not foolproof either -- I've had a whiskey
compass fail (seal broke, fluid all over the instrument panel). With GPS and
everything else we have in our planes these days, clinging to the whiskey
compass as some sort of savior when all else fails seems a bit anachronistic
to me, particularly in a VFR bird.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terminaltown(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Soldering Battery Cable Terminals |
In a message dated 11/25/00 12:07:58 AM Pacific Standard Time,
tlump(at)mediaone.net writes:
<< I have not been able to
get the solder to flow between the cable and the terminal barrel. The
solder pools up and runs over the side of the terminal rather than "wicking"
through the terminal. >>
Hi Ted:
What I would guess is happening is that your cable is not up to temperature.
Try heating the ring lug with the cable inserted in it...without the solder
in the lug. If you leave a small amount of the cable strands exposed between
the lug and the insulation and touch the solder to it. It will tell you by
it's wicking action as to whether it is hot enough, or not.
I am not a great fan of soldering. I recently had to change out a connector
on my wifes Dodge's starter motor circuit that failed due to solder wicking
to far up the wire and moving the strain point to far back from the terminal.
It broke about an inch out from the connector from vibration.
If you must solder go at it carefully and be mindful of how much is wicking
into the cable, because it will wick up as far as the heat has traveled up
the cable.
If you are lokking for hammer crimpers, we have them on
http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/Page21.html or click here Terminal Town's
Electrical Tools
Best regards,
John Caldwell@ Terminal Town's Home
Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Soldering Battery Cable Terminals |
Terminal Town wrote:
> If you must solder go at it carefully
And anchor the cable to it doesn't vibrate near the terminal.
Soldered joints don't corrode, increasing resistance, as easily I suppose.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel shock mounts or not |
HCRV6(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 11/24/00 8:10:01 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> ebowhay(at)jetstream.net writes:
>
> << It is important to use the correct shock mounts >>
>
> Eustace: This may be a dumb question but what are the correct shock mounts
> to use? If I recall the shock and vibration stuff correctly it is possible
> to make the problem worse instead of better if you choose the wrong mounts.
> Since your installation has worked successfully for nine years I want to use
> what you did.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, working on canopy installation
>
Not faulting anyone that uses a shock mount panel but on the other
hand mine have worked for eleven years with no shock mounts. I also
have done a fair amount of aerobatics and have not even had to replace
a gyro yet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel selector |
RGray67968(at)AOL.COM wrote:
> I have the fuel selector switch from Vans. From what I've seen, everyone
> seems to plumb the selector..........left tank/right tank/off. If the front
> plug is removed and replaced with a tee, you can run short loops to tees in
> the left and right side inlets.
Beware -- if think you're feeding off just one tank, the fuel could flow
from one tank to the other across the top of the tee if you're not
flying level. At that stage you no longer know how fuel is in each tank.
Secondly, as others have said, when feeding from "both" it may not feed
equally. In that case, fuel will tend to feed from the 'light' wing more
than the 'heavy' wing, which will make the differences in wing weight
worse, so that you'll need to put more effort into maintaining level
flight. Both these situations are worsened if you're flying
uncoordinated (maybe slipping in to land?)
You *could* overcome the tank-to-tank transfer problem by putting a
couple of one-way valves each side of the tee, so that fuel can't flow
back to the either tank that way. That still doesn't address the unequal
feeding problem though.
Once all the fuel has gone from one tank, rather than fuel from the
other tank you'll just get air :-(
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Inexpensive Electronic Compass |
SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM wrote:
> > A GPS won't show heading, it shows ground track. It might be hard to
> > maintain an accurate heading if you only have ground track and no view
> > of the ground.
>
> Never tried, but seems like unless the winds are shifting, it would pose no
> problem to maintain a heading based on ground track information. Besides,
> it's the ground track that ultimately gets you where you need to go, is it
> not?
Imagine its all white outside... no landmarks. Without a compass, how do
you know you're flying straight or circling? I don't think GPS updates
at 1 per second will be good enough to maintain a straight line. At best
its going to be a series of corrections left and right of the desired
ground track. I could see these deviations being 10 - 15 degrees either
side.
It would work OK in an emrgency, I suppose, but I wouldn't want to have
to do it, especially if I was short of fuel.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GNS-430 tray and prewire price |
Sorry, I'm catching the end of this thread. Where did you get the Garmin
430? Did they have to do the wiring? Thanks in advance.
rickjory(at)msn.com
Rick Jory RV8A qb
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Biddle <dbiddle(at)hdtd.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2000 8:16 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: GNS-430 tray and prewire price
>
> The quote on the 430 is $5855. By the time I put a GPS/com and Nav com or
> some other device that will let me do precision approaches, I was close to
> or above the cost of the Garmin 430. As mentioned, the tray and prewiring
> are quoted at $250 each, a used GPS CDI head (with glideslope) is another
> $500, So total hit is $6855. The 530, with a 2" larger screen is $4000
> more!!
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Holyoke
> Sent: Friday, November 24, 2000 8:01 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: GNS-430 tray and prewire price
>
>
> Dave,
> How much did the GNS 430 set you back?
> Ed Holyoke
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave Biddle" <dbiddle(at)wans.net>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, November 24, 2000 7:23 AM
> Subject: RV-List: GNS-430 tray and prewire price
>
>
> >
> > I have a quote for a Garmin GNS 430 mounting tray and required prewiring
> and
> > want some feedback from anyone who has a similar unit.
> > The price for the tray is $250 and the prewiring is another $250.
> > The prewire consists of the wiring and connector to connect it to the
CDI
> > and labled wires that I will solder to the RMI microencoder connector
with
> > the transponder wires.
> >
> > I thought $150 was high for the Garmin GTX-320 tray that I got from
Spruce
> > eight months ago. There are many more connections for the GNS 430 so
maybe
> > $250 / +$250 is not an unreasonable price.
> >
> > What have others paid for similar trays and prewiring?
> >
> > Dave Biddle
> > Phoenix, AZ
> > RV6A - getting the wiring done before riviting the top skins
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: fuel selector |
Thanks for the responses on the "Both" fuel selector position. The "cons"
outweigh the "pros" big time. I'll stay with Vans already proven
design..........not a surprise......eh?
Rick Gray RV6QB (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm (and the Buffalo are cold and wet
today)!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Inexpensive Electronic Compass |
> I don't think GPS updates
> at 1 per second will be good enough to maintain a straight line.
Frank, you have one heckuva fast instrument scan. I'll wager you could put
me under the hood in my ship, have me do a recovery from unusual attitude,
and then fly straight as an arrow to anywhere using the info supplied by my
Lowrance Airmap 300 moving map alone. One update per second is more than you
could ever use. Let's face it: unless the wind is shearing dramatically,
heading and ground track are degree-for-degree equally sensitive to changes
in airplane direction.
No DG in my airplane, and the whiskey compass is so low on fluid, it's just
there for looks.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/FP Sensenich
Hop-Along Airfield - 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
| Subject: | Cracked Case O-320 |
I have a chance to buy a O-320 but it has a "cracked case".
The seller claims this can be easily repaired. Any input?
As well the cam shaft needed polishing and the cylinders need to be
re-worked.
I'm sure Bart Lalonde can handle this but any thought on the cost?
Thankx
Steve Hurlbut
Comox, BC
RV-6A
shurlbut(at)island.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Van's panel dimmer problem solved |
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
11/25/2000 09:09:37 PM
All,
A few weeks back I wrote about a problem that I had with the Van's stock
panel dimmer ( ES DIMMER, LAMP 1.5A ). I installed per the directions only
to find that when I keyed my com transmitter all the lights in the cockpit
that were hooked up to the dimmer would go out. Clearly RF was getting
into my little dimmer. A little research and some helpful direction from
the list and I was able to solve the problem.
My dimmer circuit board actually had the layout for adding two capacitors
but the holes were empty. A schematic was actually available on page 222
of "18 Years of the RV ator". Unfortunately the values suggested in this
drawing are wrong. The capacitor value needed for the one that's attached
to the LM317 actually needs to be 0.001 micro farad at 25 volts and not 0.1
as suggested.
I will put the details and pictures on my site tomorrow. The fix works
like a champ. The lights don't even flicker now.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( cowling and more... )
O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Welch" <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Soldering Battery Cable Terminals |
Ted,
If you can make contact with an electrical contractor, especially one
that does industrial work, they can crimp it for you with a Hy-press
tool. They crimp connectors much larger than #2 all of the time.
They will probably do it for free just because of the novelty.
Vince Welch
RV-8A Wings
Roaming Shores, Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2000 3:11 AM
Subject: RV-List: Soldering Battery Cable Terminals
>
> To cut down on my tool expense, I have tried to solder my
battery cable
> terminals onto the 2 gauge wire. I used the technique outlined by
> Aeroelectric Connection in one of their articles. I have not been
able to
> get the solder to flow between the cable and the terminal barrel.
The
> solder pools up and runs over the side of the terminal rather than
"wicking"
> through the terminal. I have tried different orientations, but no
luck.
> Has anyone been successful with this method? Also, are their low
cost
> crimpers out their capable of handling a terminal this size? I
have seen a
> hammer driven crimper advertised on the net for $27.00, but they do
not
> respond to my e-mail queries.
>
> Ted Lumpkin
> RV-4
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked Case O-320 |
I think I would ask the seller to guarantee the case to be repairable and
then send it out for inspection and or repair.
Dennis Thomas
RV-9A Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 28 Msgs - 11/25/00 |
Remarks about 2 things-
First, on following a heading with a GPS ground track signal. I've got to
admit that's how I navigate with my handheld! Point the plane in the right
direction, trim, and adjust according to ground track. MUCH more accurate
than compass or DG, and the one-per-second updates are just fine.
Second, on left-right-both fuel, this arrangement work on Cessnas with very
few problems. That's how i always flew my Skyhawk- on both. Yes, one tank
ALWAYS drew down quicker, and yes, you had to be sure to turn the valve off
or to one ewing when you parked on a not-level ramp with full fuel, or you'd
have fuel all over the ramp. But it worked. Personall, I am planning on not
having a "both" position for reasons of simplicity, but I'm very comfortable
with the concept. Oh, and I would avoid the "one-way" valve concept. That
sounds like a place for water to hide.
Ed Winne RV-9 emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 28 Msgs - 11/25/00 |
>
>Remarks about 2 things-
>
>Second, on left-right-both fuel, this arrangement work on Cessnas with very
>few problems. That's how i always flew my Skyhawk- on both. Yes, one tank
>ALWAYS drew down quicker, and yes, you had to be sure to turn the valve off
>or to one ewing when you parked on a not-level ramp with full fuel, or you'd
>have fuel all over the ramp. But it worked. Personall, I am planning on not
>having a "both" position for reasons of simplicity, but I'm very comfortable
>with the concept. Oh, and I would avoid the "one-way" valve concept. That
>sounds like a place for water to hide.
>
>Ed Winne RV-9 emp
>
There is a big difference between high wing aircraft with gravity
feed to the fuel selector, and low wing wing aircraft with suction
feed to the fuel selector. On a Cessna, if one tank is dry, the fuel
from the tank will still go to the fuel selector by gravity feed and
the engine will be happy. On an RV, if you had a both position and
one tank was dry, the fuel pump would suck air, and the engine would
stop. Anyone who doesn't believe this should get some clear plastic
hose and a T-fitting. Make up a little "fuel" system with two
glasses of water to simulate the fuel tanks. Run a piece of hose
from each glass to the T, and suck on the third hose. Everything
will be fine, as long as you have water in both glasses. Now, empty
one glass and see what happens.
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Panel shock mounts or not |
SHOCK MOUNTS WERE NEEDED WITH THE OLDER GYROS-BALANCE YOUR ENGINE AND PROP
REGARDS TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas E. Bostard" <dougacft(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 11/22/00 |
I got your jump-start. Just finished 41 hours on a new as yet unpainted
RV6A. Had a small "seizure" in my left cheek only a week before test
flight. I'm now fighting a losing battle with Oklahoma and prefer a
'rrhoidectomy sans anasthetic" but will probably sell it. It is a
creampuff with $12K in the panel and rblt to new specs 0-320/new C/S
prop. Doug Bostard- N. Calif. Talk about jumpstart! email me for
details.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Nose wheel thightness |
I installed my nose wheel and it is so tight that the wheel will only rotate
given lots of umph. Should I "trim to fit" so that the wheel spins freely?
In the Justice note, he calls for tightening to get 3 revolutions of spin.
Ross Mickey
6-A 9PT (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | earl fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | RV-4 canopy stress |
Hi Dave. Sorry to hear about the aileron but it could have been worse.
I am ready to drill the canopy on the RV4. I am thinking about using
rachet straps around the fuselage and canopy to pull it down where it
fit correctly and then drill to the frame. Do you an opinion as to
whether it will stress the plexi to do this.
Thanks, Earl RV4
David Aronson wrote:
>
>
> Listers:
>
> I am about to remake one aileron due to a hanger door last month. Does
> anyone know if the new RV4 aileron skins and spars are prepunched. I
> forgot to ask Van's and have not been able to get through this PM.
> Thanks
> Dave Aronson
> RV4 N504RV
> FWF except for wreckages and screwups....
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | sustained knife edge flight |
I'm curious if anyone's got any direct experience in how well a RV-6 or 8
slider canopy holds up to sustained knife edge flight. Anyone know of a web
site where someone's done any mods to the canopys to increase side load
strength?
Also, $700 for an inverted oil system sounds like an opportunity to learn to
build a system for less. Anyone have any ideas on where I can find plans
and parts? Anyone done this yet?
TIA,
lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel selector |
I'm not an expert but this has been covered many times in my two years on
this list. The general rule is that a "Both" position is fine for high wing
gravity feed fuel systems. Low wing aircraft should never have a "Both"
position. It is proven dangerous. There, I spelled it out. Again , I am not
an expert and this is a very serious area. Please contact your aircraft
manufactor for the real skinny......Norman Hunger.....
> I have the fuel selector switch from Vans. From what I've seen,
everyone
> seems to plumb the selector..........left tank/right tank/off. If the
front
> plug is removed and replaced with a tee, you can run short loops to tees
in
> the left and right side inlets. This gives you a 4th option.........BOTH.
I
> feel like there may be advantages to this..........like not switching
tanks
> and uniform flow.........but also don't want to change an already proven
> design. Have others done
> this...........advantages.....disadvantages..............or am I missing
> something?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
11/26/2000 11:56:40 AM
Norman,
I mounted mine on a hinged door in the baggage compartment ( 8A ) that I
have had occasion to open and close many many times. The wires on those
fast-on lugs ( all my supplies were purchased from electric bob ) are
holding up well. Once you see how much force it takes to just attach one
of those lugs you have some idea as to how hard it would be for one just to
shake loose. About the only worry that I might have with that arrangement
would be if the fuses themselves might drop out if you had a hard enough
landing or two. I have had some pretty good bouncers in my time and I
would think that four or five of those might just be enough to shake
something loose. I'm a big proponent of fuse blocks but I'm not sure
automotive testing took into account that kind of G loads that we are
capable of on hard landings. Just a thought.
If you want to check out my install my site is
http://www.homestead.com/RV8A/files/ on the panel page
Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( cowl... )
O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuse Blocks - Hinged |
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com <Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com>
Date: Sunday, November 26, 2000 12:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuse Blocks
>
>Norman,
>
>I mounted mine on a hinged door in the baggage compartment ( 8A ) that I
>have had occasion to open and close many many times>
>If you want to check out my install my site is
>http://www.homestead.com/RV8A/files/ on the panel page
>
>Jim Andrews
>RV-8A ( cowl... )
>O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
>N89JA reserved
>
Very nice layout, Jim! I note that you have adequately addressed the area
of strain relief. I was going to caution Norman about that but your
excellent photo collection tells it all!
You will be feeding the fuse blocks with AWG 8 or so, and then fanning out
with many AWG 16 to 22, depending on loads. That bundle of wires, starting
with the quite inflexible #8, constitutes a real boa constrictor of wires
that requires considerable force to move. Hence the concern for a hinged
mount, lest the hinging action put too much force on the fuse holders. Jim
has solved that potential problem nicely.
I have 18 inch service loops on all my wiring and vacuum plumbing. The
service loop to the breaker panel is about 1 1/4 inches in diameter so is
not very flexible. However, removing the panel and setting it on the seat
is a whole lot easier than crawling under the panel!
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 15 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Horizontal & Vertical Stabilizer Mounting |
I have my Sliding Canopy ready for the fitting of the Plexiglas but do to
cold weather I would like to delay until better weather (Spring) to finish
this step.
Does anyone know where on the Orindorf Tapes the Empenage Final
Mounting is shown? I have the 3 QB,3 Finish & 2 System Tapes.
George or Becky are you by chance looking at this post? An index for
these tapes would be a large improvement.
Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Jim Andrews wrote:
>I'm a big proponent of fuse blocks but I'm not sure
> automotive testing took into account that kind of G loads that we are
> capable of on hard landings
Can't *WE* test them? Wouldn't it be adequate to use a pull scale (or
fishing weight) to see how much force it takes to remove a fuse and then
weigh a fuse and see if the remove force is nine times the weight?
I would wag that the pull force is way more than nine times the fuse weight.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Field <jfield(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 canopy stress |
Pulling the canopy into place with straps sounds like a bad idea to me. I
would think you want that #$%%+#@ thing as relaxed as it can be. I thought
I was being was very carefull and I cracked one during construction. I have
also heard a few stories about canopies cracking with very little prompting
after they were finished. I'm guessing the canopy appears to be to short.
If you can't get it to fit as is I would consider modifying the frame
before pulling the canopy down into place.
John Field RV-4 engine
>Hi Dave. Sorry to hear about the aileron but it could have been worse.
>I am ready to drill the canopy on the RV4. I am thinking about using
>rachet straps around the fuselage and canopy to pull it down where it
>fit correctly and then drill to the frame. Do you an opinion as to
>whether it will stress the plexi to do this.
>Thanks, Earl RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Field <jfield(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 canopy stress |
Pulling the canopy into place with straps sounds like a bad idea to me. I
would think you want that #$%%+#@ thing as relaxed as it can be. I thought
I was being was very carefull and I cracked one during construction. I have
also heard a few stories about canopies cracking with very little prompting
after they were finished. I'm guessing the canopy appears to be to short.
If you can't get it to fit as is I would consider modifying the frame
before pulling the canopy down into place.
John Field RV-4 engine
>Hi Dave. Sorry to hear about the aileron but it could have been worse.
>I am ready to drill the canopy on the RV4. I am thinking about using
>rachet straps around the fuselage and canopy to pull it down where it
>fit correctly and then drill to the frame. Do you an opinion as to
>whether it will stress the plexi to do this.
>Thanks, Earl RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Jim, very nice installation and website.
RV8 builders, Jim's access door pictures are a must see. This technique
allows conveneint ground access to the back of the panel. All wiring can
then be routed within it's reach and you will never have to crawl in upside
down to trace wiring problems or add equipment down the road. This could be
planned into any aircraft with a forward luggage compartment. Some RV4's
have them. It could be planned into an RV6/9 for maintenance when the cowl
is off but it would be a big deal to maintain the integrity of the firewall.
It's too late for me.
Regards,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
> I mounted mine on a hinged door in the baggage compartment ( 8A ) that I
> have had occasion to open and close many many times
> If you want to check out my install my site is
> http://www.homestead.com/RV8A/files/ on the panel page
>
> Jim Andrews
> RV-8A ( cowl... )
> O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
> N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
Sounds like a good idea to me Norman, would be interested to see how yours
works out. You could probably put all the wires in a piece of plastic flex
conduit with the proper length for the travel of the block and secure each
end of the conduit.
Kevin Shannon
9A fuse & panel planning
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Stupid Mistake |
Hey Bill, just think how nice the access panels are going to look from the
inside now....! But seriously cant you just cut off the extrusion and rivet
in a doubler behind the skin?
well gotta go now, and run home and look at MY skins
Kevin Shannon
9A fuse & panel planning
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terminaltown(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 11/26/00 11:45:09 AM Pacific Standard Time,
nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes:
<< Jim, very nice installation and website. >>
Norm:
(Great set up Jim and excellent photos) Another similar concept for easy
access fuse blocks can be seem at
http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/Page89.html
It was done by Bob Haan on his RV.
Keep asking the questions...It makes us all think!
John @Terminal Town
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stupid Mistake |
> Can't you cut off the "outcess" and rivet a doubler onto the inside of the
> skin to recreate a recess? Assuming van's approves and you use an
approved
> doubler thickness and rivet pattern I think that would be a non-event,
> structure-wise. (But I'm no engineer!)
Before all this prepunched, pre-joggled stuff came along, that was how they
were all done. The joggled recess is a luxury.
The tricky part will be getting it cut out without messing up the skin. I'd
do the first rough cut with snips, then die grinder/rotary file to, and
die/grinder/scotchbrite wheel to finish it off.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Turn Coordinator tilt? |
I've been unpacking all my instruments and laying them out on the
kitchen table this afternoon. I've discovered that my Wultrad turn
coordinator (from Van's) is marked on the back: Calibrated for
Installation in Vertical Panel Only. Does this mean that I need to find
a t/c with the 8 degree panel tilt like I did with the attitude
indicator?
Van's catalog should really mention this sort of thing.
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 N118KB (reserved)
assorted endless cockpit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | E.I. Ultimate Analyzer question... |
More of my ignorance showing here... :-(
When unpacking my EI US-8A Ultimate Analyzer, it occurred to me that the
CHT & EGT probes need to go through holes in the cylinders (I think).
Are these holes already in my engine, or am I going to have to drill and
tap new holes into my nice new cylinders? I've got an IO-360-A1B6 from
Bart, but it's still shrink wrapped and I didn't want to undo that at
this point just to look for these phantom holes.
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 N118KB (reserved)
assorted endless cockpit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel thightness |
ross
i have the same problem, what will you trim to make it fit? let me know if
you get a good answer.
scott
tam-pa rv6a panel wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel shock mounts or not |
Hi Harry:
The shock mounts I use are Aircraft Spruce P/N 10-14700 found on page 336 of
their current catalog @ 3.95 each and cap nuts ( acorn) AC832 on the front
of the panel, these are on page 88 am planning 7 or 8 on this panel. These
mounts are the round stand- of type with the two screws molded into the
rubber independent of each other.
I will be taking some pictures of this panel in the next day or two and
would be happy to send you a copy.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
-----Original Message-----
From: HCRV6(at)AOL.COM <HCRV6(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Saturday, November 25, 2000 11:01 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Panel shock mounts or not
>
>In a message dated 11/24/00 8:10:01 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>ebowhay(at)jetstream.net writes:
>
><< It is important to use the correct shock mounts >>
>
>Eustace: This may be a dumb question but what are the correct shock
mounts
>to use? If I recall the shock and vibration stuff correctly it is
possible
>to make the problem worse instead of better if you choose the wrong mounts.
>Since your installation has worked successfully for nine years I want to
use
>what you did.
>
>Harry Crosby
>Pleasanton, California
>RV-6, working on canopy installation
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Van's panel dimmer problem solved |
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
11/26/2000 03:44:25 PM
Ok, I updated my panel pages to include my little dimmer mods. Boy this
was easier that I remembered. I need to do this more often.
Please check out:
http://www.homestead.com/RV8A/files/
for the details.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( cowling and more... )
O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: E.I. Ultimate Analyzer question... |
Ken Balch wrote:
>
> More of my ignorance showing here... :-(
>
> When unpacking my EI US-8A Ultimate Analyzer, it occurred to me that the
> CHT & EGT probes need to go through holes in the cylinders (I think).
> Are these holes already in my engine, or am I going to have to drill and
> tap new holes into my nice new cylinders? I've got an IO-360-A1B6 from
> Bart, but it's still shrink wrapped and I didn't want to undo that at
> this point just to look for these phantom holes.
The CHT holes are already there. Drilled & tapped and ready to go.
The EGT probe holes need to be drilled into your exhaust system.
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
| Subject: | Re: sustained knife edge flight |
lucky--
I'm not sure I really understand the canopy question. There are really
no bizarre forces acting the canopy in either knife-edge or inverted
flight--unless your harness isn't tight and you're hitting the canopy
with your body. If you subscribe to the-fuselage-as-airfoil theory for
knife-edge flying, then some high-pressure exists of the "down" side of
the fuselage while "up" side of the fuselage is low-pressure area.
But, I've never heard of the pilot of any aerobatic plane having to do
such a "reinforcement".
You can save a lot of money by copying the parts list from The Christen
(Aviat) manual and then buying the parts separately from other
suppliers. Lycoming also puts out an Engine Operator's Manual for their
aerobatic engine series that details the changes required. Last I hear
they were still getting their parts from Aviat.
The big concern with sustained knife-edge flight with a Lycoming AEIO-
engine or the Aviat conversion is to do them LEFT WING DOWN as that is
the side of the sump the oil pick-up line is on.
But, take a look at the drawings and the recommendations for the
placement of the certain parts and the running of the oil lines and make
your own choice.
>
>
> I'm curious if anyone's got any direct experience in how well a RV-6 or 8
> slider canopy holds up to sustained knife edge flight. Anyone know of a web
> site where someone's done any mods to the canopys to increase side load
> strength?
>
> Also, $700 for an inverted oil system sounds like an opportunity to learn to
> build a system for less. Anyone have any ideas on where I can find plans
> and parts? Anyone done this yet?
>
> TIA,
> lucky
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Turn Coordinator tilt? |
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
11/26/2000 04:34:46 PM
Ken,
I ask the same question to Scott at Van's and the answer was "no problem
mounting it in a standard 8 degree panel as is".
The other thing you want to do is hook it up to power about once a month
and run it for about 30 minutes. Some folks have found problems when the
instrument sits in the box for months on end and then after installation
have discovered that the electric gyro is locked up. Probably one of those
use it or loose it scenarios with regard to self lubricating bearings. I
run mine regularly and even though I still have not made my first flight,
it's still working great.
Hope this helps,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( cowling... )
O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: E.I. Ultimate Analyzer question... |
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
11/26/2000 04:44:23 PM
Ken,
I have a VM1000 but I bet the probes are pretty much the same. Your in
luck on the CHT, there is a threaded hole on the cylinder already to
accommodate this. Just have to screw it in. The EGT was a little more
problematic. I guess because with different types of engine geometrys and
the fact that some folks have to pack a lot more in that cowl than others,
you will need to drill and attach your own EGT probes. My installation
package was a no brainer. Just drop #30 holes in the exhaust pipes and
chinch everything down with stainless clamps. Be careful to test rout the
thermocouple lines before hand so that you have plenty of clearance once
the cowl is attached. Always good to check out others installations for
good tips as well. Remember when it comes to building imitation is the
most sincerest form of flattery :-)
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( cowling... )
O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stupid Mistake |
>I am not going to be taking the skins off so I will either need
> to re-work the recesses
I would consider this a minor setback. You probably don't need to make a
note of it but do put off doing anything about it till you have made some
more serious errors. You could patch this problem in a few minutes and go
start your test flying!
IMHO, you don't want to fuss with details, so long as it is possible, till
you start flying. They are discouraging and might cause you to give up on
the project.
Some builders tell us to get everything perfect as you go. It would be
interesting to know how many of them ever finish. Oh, I suppose we are all
different and what works for one doesn't for another.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | The Razers <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stupid Mistake |
Why dont you just use a dremel to cut off the joggled flange and simply
rivet a new flange on the inside of the skin. this way your inspection
plate will fit flush. Removing the entire skin and replacing it seems a
little radical
chet 296 hours in Miss Chiquita and going strong.
"Douglas G. Murray" wrote:
>
>
> Bill -
> Don't settle for anything but the best. You will always regret not going
> back and correcting small mistakes. Yup - this IS a small mistake. Just
> reorder new skins and start over. I think that side skin replacement would
> be a lot easier than the outer leading wing skin I replaced because I put
> the landing light in the wrong location. I am very happy that I took the
> time to DO IT RIGHT.
> Yes - you can make an cover plate to go over the mistake and it will
> work well --BUT --do you REALLY want to be reminded of the mistake every
> time you show off your good work to others?
> n
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)win.bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stupid Mistake |
The only bad thing about waiting to fix something until later,
especially if it is a small, unseen item...you may forget to fix it
altogether!
Scott
Been there, Done that.
kempthornes wrote:
>
>
> >I am not going to be taking the skins off so I will either need
> > to re-work the recesses
>
> I would consider this a minor setback. You probably don't need to make a
> note of it but do put off doing anything about it till you have made some
> more serious errors. You could patch this problem in a few minutes and go
> start your test flying!
>
> IMHO, you don't want to fuss with details, so long as it is possible, till
> you start flying. They are discouraging and might cause you to give up on
> the project.
>
> Some builders tell us to get everything perfect as you go. It would be
> interesting to know how many of them ever finish. Oh, I suppose we are all
> different and what works for one doesn't for another.
>
> Hal Kempthorne
> RV6a N7HK
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
Scott
If installed correctly and working properly, the VM-1000 fuel stays
accurate to within 0.1 gal. after 3 hrs. of flying, or 6 hrs. I have
run my
-6 dry, several times, to check accuracy of the system, and when the
engine sputters out of gas, "fuel burn" always reads 37.7 gal. (tail
down on tailwheel). It does not accumulate error like the EI unit in
your RV-8A. Problems occur when pilots don't update the unit after
top-off--or record fuel burn at the end of one flight to enter at the
start of the next flight
(should be part of the CHECKLIST),
or don't have an adequately calibrated
mechanical/stick/tube fuel gauge for manual use.
Boyd RV-S6
N600SS w/ VM-1000
>
> In my opinion it is only partially wrong.
> The Yellow prototype RV-8A with the IO-360 engine (N58VA) has a flow
> scan fuel flow transducer mounted in the cockpit area (after the filter
> and boost pump) and the instrument is accurate within 1/2 gal after 3
> hours of flying (Pretty good I'd say).
> The instrument is the Electronics International fuel flow computer which
> has an adjustable K factor. This allows for fine tuning adjustments.
> The VM-1000 has no K factor adjustment which does make the transducer
> sensitive to the installed location. In fact sometimes it seems no
> matter how you do the installation you can't get accurate readings. I
> have always felt that this was a major design error on the part of Vision
> Microsystems.
> Bottom line...transducer between servo and flow divider is not always
> necessary. All we are really doing is measuring fuel that passes through
> the transducer. It doesn't matter were you do this as long as the
> instrument can be set up to read the signals accurately.
>
> Scott McDaniels
> North Plains, OR
> These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stupid Mistake |
Right on! Do keep a log of little things to do before flying!
hal
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott <acepilot(at)win.bright.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2000 5:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stupid Mistake
>
> The only bad thing about waiting to fix something until later,
> especially if it is a small, unseen item...you may forget to fix it
> altogether!
>
> Scott
> Been there, Done that.
>
>
> kempthornes wrote:
> >
> >
> > >I am not going to be taking the skins off so I will either need
> > > to re-work the recesses
> >
> > I would consider this a minor setback. You probably don't need to make
a
> > note of it but do put off doing anything about it till you have made
some
> > more serious errors. You could patch this problem in a few minutes and
go
> > start your test flying!
> >
> > IMHO, you don't want to fuss with details, so long as it is possible,
till
> > you start flying. They are discouraging and might cause you to give up
on
> > the project.
> >
> > Some builders tell us to get everything perfect as you go. It would be
> > interesting to know how many of them ever finish. Oh, I suppose we are
all
> > different and what works for one doesn't for another.
> >
> > Hal Kempthorne
> > RV6a N7HK
> >
>
> --
> --Scott--
> 1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
> http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
>
> Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel tightness |
In a message dated 11/26/00 7:57:31 AM Pacific Standard Time,
rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com writes:
<< I installed my nose wheel and it is so tight that the wheel will only
rotate
given lots of umph. Should I "trim to fit" so that the wheel spins freely?
In the Justice note, he calls for tightening to get 3 revolutions of spin. >>
That sounds close. Just sand the spacers a little at a time until you get
just the right bearing side loading. Tapered bearings need proper loading so
stop sanding when you get the wheel to spin between 1-3 times with properly
packed bearings.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Light Questions & Observations Plus an Oops |
Listers...
Regarding landing lights: Is anyone knowledgable about the new Xenon driving
lights? My halogen bulb was dead outta the box, and when I bought a new one
at the local auto emporium, the xenon lights caught my eye. For an
equivalent wattage, would a xenon bulb be advantageous?
Regarding Panel lights: My battery is probably a bit down on Volts these
days, but going with backlighted instruments is looking like a mistake.
Things are just too dim. I spent quite a bit of extra $ getting backlighted
aviation instruments (altimeter, ASI, etc), plus selected backlighted
automotive instruments for engine monitoring. Next time, I'll go with a
handful of post lights. Five or six of 'em @ $25 ea are a lot less expensive
than my investment in backlighting. In addition, post lights use a lot fewer
amps than the backlighted automotive stuff.
The oops... There is a little tool that is inserted into the Electroair
Ignition Unit to set the timing. It goes SNAP and breaks off inside the
unit if you are dumb enough to forget to remove it before hitting the
starter. Fortunately, the unit disassembles easily, and seems remarkably
immune to damage from stupidity. Maybe I'll give it the drop test next....
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: bcbraem(at)home.com <bcbraem(at)home.com>
Date: Sunday, November 26, 2000 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: VM-1000
>
>Scott
>
>If installed correctly and working properly, the VM-1000 fuel stays
>accurate to within 0.1 gal. after 3 hrs. of flying, or 6 hrs. I have
>run my
>-6 dry, several times, to check accuracy of the system, and when the
>engine sputters out of gas, "fuel burn" always reads 37.7 gal. (tail
>down on tailwheel). It does not accumulate error like the EI unit in
>your RV-8A>Boyd RV-S6
>N600SS w/ VM-1000
I guess mine is not installed correctly and/or working properly then. On 5
tankfills to date the error on 10 to 25 gallons topoff has varied from 7 to
15 percent, the VM1000 always claiming more fuel burned than actual.
I also find the "autopeak" leaning feature very misleading. I get much
better leaning by leaning to rough running, then enrichening to smooth. I
note that the competitors claim "no false peaks" with their units. I have
heard many a pilot complaining about the leaning algorithm at OSH and now I
understand why.
Undoubtedly I have lots to learn about my unit. Suffice it to say it does
not work satisfactorily right out of the box.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O3600A1A/ Hartzell 15 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Soldering Battery Cable Terminals |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
From: BPattonsoa(at)AOL.COM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Soldering Battery Cable Terminals
>I soldered my #2 (battery, starter and ground wires), #6 (master to
>distribution bus), and the #8 to the vital bus. If you solder
correctly, the
>first inch away from the terminal may become solid, however the wires
>themselves are so stiff that it makes no difference.
From my experience, just the opposite is true.
If you allow solder to flow past the terminal, out into the wire, it will
cause a concentration of all vibration to occur on all of the cable
strands at the very point the solder ends. If any vibration
is induced in the cable it "will" eventually break at this point. I have
seen it happen in as little as 150 hrs.
I have seen this happen with cables than were supported with a clamp as
little as 6 inches from the terminal.
If the cable is crimped only, there is enough flexibility that this
doesn't happen.
I am pretty sure that Aeroelectric Bob says to be sure and not have
solder wick passed the cable out into the wire. Apply solder from the
cut end of the cable and try not to let it wick all the way through the
crimp part of the terminal.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: sustained knife edge flight |
Mr. Braem,
I saw your reply to Macy on the RV List. I am trying to educate myself about
inverted aircraft oil systems. Could you please answer the following questions.
1 Where is the oil pump pickup located on non AEIO Lycoming engines?
2 After checking the inverted oil schematic diagrams shown on Greg Travis' web
site, I note that only the Lycoming system uses a dual stage oil pump. This
appears similar to how automotive "racing dry sump" oil pumps are set up. Can this
style of Lycoming oil pump be retrofit into a non AEIO engine? Are there special
oil passageways in the AEIO engine cases/accessory case that would preclude this?
3 Who is this company Acraline? Why have they designed and marketed an inverted
oil system? Aviat, I know, Acraline I do not. Admittedly, I know very little of
acro aircraft manufacturers.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A fuselage kit arrives tomorrow :-)
Boca Raton, Fl.
snipped
The big concern with sustained knife-edge flight with a Lycoming AEIO-
> engine or the Aviat conversion is to do them LEFT WING DOWN as that is
> the side of the sump the oil pick-up line is on.
>
> But, take a look at the drawings and the recommendations for the
> placement of the certain parts and the running of the oil lines and make
> your own choice.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Wiring Questions |
Hi I'm following one of Bob's wiring diagrams and I came accross a few
questions to steer me the right way.
Do I run the Essential Bus off one fuse on the Battery Bus? (for when the E
Bus Switch is thrown)
How big a fuse?
Can I power all of my gyros off this?
Which bus do I run my Airflow Performance fuel pump off?
Can I have an Avionics Master?
Can it run a relay then a fuse block?
What type of relay?
How many amps would I need for a large stack of 2 x Coms, 2X Navs,
Transponder, and Audio Panel?
Where do you suggest I power the Navaid from?
Thank-you,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <edwardmcole(at)home.com> |
Listers,
While Avionics surfing , I came across this announcement from PS
engineering.
They are introducing a CD Player combined with an Intercom system.
Price is $995 list.
I've included their descri[ption of the unit:
For more info and pictures go to: www.ps-engineering.com and look for the
PCD-7100
Ed Cole
RV6A Finishing Kit
As the leader in cockpit audio, we have often been asked to recommend an
entertainment device for general aviation aircraft. This had been difficult,
because the selection was limited, and expensive.
Not any more!
The PCD7100-Series integrated Intercom and entertainment system is
designed from the beginning for aircraft installations. By combining a
superb Compact Disk (CD) player with a high-performance intercom and audio
system, installation and operation is simplified.
The PCD7100 incorporates PS Engineering's exclusive IntelliVox, the
completely automatic digitally controlled intercom squelch. IntelliVox has
been a proven performer in all types of aircraft, from warbirds to
helicopters.
The PCD7100 has music and intercom volume controls, for precise
adjustment of the audio levels. The five back-lit CD push button controls
have LED mode annunciation are Play/Pause, Skip, Repeat, Stop and Eject.
In ISO mode, the pilot hears only aircraft radio traffic, without music
or intercom interruptions. In crew mode, the pilot and copilot hear the
internal CD player, and radio traffic. The passengers can either listen to
the internal player, or use another entertainment source, depending on
installation configuration.
Like all PS Engineering intercoms, both the pilot and copilot have
transmit capability over the aircraft radios
In ALL mode, all intercom positions hear the aircraft radios and the CD
player, with our proprietary "Soft Mute" circuit.
What about vibration? The Compact Disk Player is designed to withstand
severe turbulence and very hard landings without missing a beat. The
PCD7100 will be well suited to any aircraft cockpit or cabin vibration
environment. The PCD7100 is also very tolerant of unusual attitudes, and
will function in almost any normal category pitch or roll condition.
The automatic fail-safe feature (EMG) connects the pilot directly to the
aircraft radios if power is removed from the PCD7100 for any reason.
The CD-only version (PCD7100-P) provides compatible music outputs for
most General Aviation audio systems and intercoms.
The PCD7100-EX can support eight intercom positions, with CD music and
IntelliVox. The CD music can also be distributed to the main intercom
system.
An available Digital Recorder and Audio Warning System (DRAWS) version
can be ordered that will store 60-seconds of radio traffic for instant
replay. In addition, up to six alert messages can be programmed to direct
the pilot's attention to out-of-limit conditions, if interfaced with
compatible aircraft systems.
The system was designed for maximum ergonomic simplicity, with easy to
see and use buttons in a natural configuration. The PCD7100 is manufactured
in the USA, and will be FAA-Approved to the most current international
standards. PS Engineering's 1-year no-hassle warranty and ProSupport program
back the units for a lifetime of worry free operation.
----
FEATURES
Integrated 6-place Stereo Intercom IRS (Intercom Recording System) Option
IntelliVox automatic VOX squelch CD-only option
Isolate, Crew and All intercom modes Expansion Capability
Fail-safe operation Vibration-resistant CD player
FAA-TSO Approval (pending) No RFI emissions to interfere with communications
or other avionics
Dual music capability w/ soft mute Reads CD-R and CD-RW disks
No hassle 1- year warranty Aural Warning System
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel tightness |
Thanks, All.
There seems to be two setups for the front axle. I have the "old" style
which consists of an axle (U-609) and a spacer (U-610) that puts the load on
the bearing. The critical thing here is to have the U-609 shorter than the
spacer (U-610) so the load is put on the bearings.. I have to spread the
fork to get the wheel in and actually scored it a bit when I did. Without
the nut on, I can not spin the wheel without UMPH. I seems to me that I
should sand these U parts down making sure that the U-609 does not touch the
fork.
The "new" style replaces U-609 and U-610 with a U-621-A.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Horizontal & Vertical Stabilizer Mounting |
Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
> I have my Sliding Canopy ready for the fitting of the Plexiglas but do to
> cold weather I would like to delay until better weather (Spring) to finish
> this step.
> Does anyone know where on the Orindorf Tapes the Empenage Final
> Mounting is shown? I have the 3 QB,3 Finish & 2 System Tapes.
Finish Kit, Tape 2.
> George or Becky are you by chance looking at this post? An index for
> these tapes would be a large improvement.
Absolutely agree... perhaps print on the back cover a list of topics,
and how many minutes into the tape they are.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: sustained knife edge flight |
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2000 4:55 PM
Subject: RV-List: sustained knife edge flight
>
> I'm curious if anyone's got any direct experience in how well a RV-6 or 8
> slider canopy holds up to sustained knife edge flight.
Dont worry about it. Ive been flying competion acro in an RV6
for 2 years. There is not even close to enough rudder or HP.
Ive done about all the bad things you can do with an RVand I can
assure you that the canopy is not the problem. If you want to
worry about something, worry about the seat belt attach fittings.
Very unsuitable for neg. G flight. Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GNS-430 tray and prewire price |
There is a serious side to this too. I shoved my radio stack as far right as
I could, even trimming the subpanel brace a little. That left me no way to
reach underneath and buck the subpanel rivets. I wound up modifying the
radio tube mounting so the panel could be installed after the front skin is
in place. Now I can reach in from the front when the time comes (shortly, I
hope).
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) wiring & systems
>> RV6A - getting the wiring done before riviting the top skins
>Dave, after you get all of those wires in under the panel, are you going to
>have any room to get in there to buck those rivets?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stupid Mistake |
Chet,
I suppose drilling out 600 rivets is a bit radical -BUT- I came from the
school of "If the jobs worth doing, it's worth doing right". After all what
is 600 rivets when you look at the fact that there are 13,500 rivets to be
installed. Drilling off the offending skins will take about two hours and
with the holes in the fuselage to guide the drilling of fresh holes the new
skins can be back on in another two hours. Four hours of extra work to an
experienced sheet metal worker on a 2000 hour project cannot be considered
as 'radical'. - Or can it? - I suppose that it all depends on your level of
personal craftsmanship. I have been steadily building my RV-6 for several
years and admit to making many 'radical' repairs, but I WILL finish real
soon now and won't have to explain away very many 'goofs'.
Make good choices and have fun building.
Douglas G. Murray RV-6
Southern Alberta
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stupid Mistake
>
> Why dont you just use a dremel to cut off the joggled flange and simply
> rivet a new flange on the inside of the skin. this way your inspection
> plate will fit flush. Removing the entire skin and replacing it seems a
> little radical
>
> chet 296 hours in Miss Chiquita and going strong.
>
> "Douglas G. Murray" wrote:
> >
> >
> > Bill -
> > Don't settle for anything but the best. You will always regret not
going
> > back and correcting small mistakes. Yup - this IS a small mistake. Just
> > reorder new skins and start over. I think that side skin replacement
would
> > be a lot easier than the outer leading wing skin I replaced because I
put
> > the landing light in the wrong location. I am very happy that I took the
> > time to DO IT RIGHT.
> > Yes - you can make an cover plate to go over the mistake and it will
> > work well --BUT --do you REALLY want to be reminded of the mistake every
> > time you show off your good work to others?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Holding hinge pins in cowling |
Hi all,
I am working on my cowling and wondering how people have held the
hinge pins inside the cowling? This would be the for the two hinges
at the back of the top cowling; the two hinges on the back sides of
the bottom cowling; and the two hinges on the back bottom of the
bottom cowling. Did you just let them be figuring they couldn't back
out, or did you make some special attach point.
I finally have the two main cowl halves all trimmed and drilled to
their corresponding hinges. I'll need some filler -- especially around
the front -- but overall, it seems pretty good to me. I ended up
cutting away all the flanges except the short piece just behind
the spinner that gets three screws on each side. I still haven't
decided how to "catch" the hinge pins for the main side hinges,
but I have some ideas for that.
Doug Medema RV-6A #21140 Mounting cowling.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Stupid Mistake |
"Douglas G. Murray" wrote:
> I suppose drilling out 600 rivets is a bit radical -BUT- I came from the
> school of "If the jobs worth doing, it's worth doing right". After all what
> is 600 rivets when you look at the fact that there are 13,500 rivets to be
> installed.
Yeah. But... Will the finished product be better or worse if he drills
out 600 rivets? I doubt that I could drill out 20 rivets without
enlarging at least one hole. So (if he's as unskilled as me) he'll be
enlarging 30 holes. Of those, at least a couple will be too
big/eggshaped for a standard rivet. Need to put a couple of cheater
rivets in them, or else repair the hole somehow.
If it was me, I'd be looking for a way to cut those joggles off. After
all, the RV-6 doesn't have pre-formed flanges, and it looks OK. As a
side-benefit, he'll have larger holes in the skins to get his hands in
for fitting his elevator bellcrank.
> Make good choices and have fun building.
Yup.
Frank.
RV-6, Finish Kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cleaveland Aircraft Tool" <mail(at)cleavelandtool.com> |
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool 1-800-368-1822
Order Online at: http://www.cleavelandtool.com/catalog/misctools.html
Also available in 5 gal quanities.
Thanks,
Mike
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> A20driver(at)AOL.COM
> Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 4:41 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Boeshield T - 9
>
>
>
> Does anyone know whats the best place to buy Boeshield T - 9
> in other than
> spray cans???? Jim Brown, NJ, RV-3 & 4
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Hurd" <hurd(at)boernenet.com> |
| Subject: | Traffic Detector |
I'm sure some of you saw the article in November AOPA magazine on the
ADT-200 Air Traffic Detector. This $800 item gives non-directonal
traffic alerts via lights and audio, if other plane is
transponder-equipped and in radar contact. I do a lot of flying solo
and would like to have another set of eyes, as it were. Would anyone
care to comment on the product, the company, or provide first-hand or
other experience with the ADT-200. Please, no quotes from AIM on
pilot's responsibility to be alert for traffic.
Jim RV6A 101 hours flying San Antonio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Biddle" <dbiddle(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Horizontal & Vertical Stabilizer Mounting |
I made an index as I watched them the second time. Too much fast forward and
rewinding without it.
Horizontal Stabilizer mounting begins on Finish Kit tape two, 28 minutes
from the start.
Vertical stabilizer follows at 35 minutes from start.
Dave Biddle
RV6A - wiring
Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
> > I have my Sliding Canopy ready for the fitting of the Plexiglas but do
to
> > cold weather I would like to delay until better weather (Spring) to
finish
> > this step.
> > Does anyone know where on the Orindorf Tapes the Empenage Final
> > Mounting is shown? I have the 3 QB,3 Finish & 2 System Tapes.
> _
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Turn Coordinator tilt? |
Jim,
Thanks for saving me a call to Van's this morning! Looks like I'll have to
locate a suitable power source and keep those gyro bearings lubed.
Ken
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote:
>
> Ken,
>
> I ask the same question to Scott at Van's and the answer was "no problem
> mounting it in a standard 8 degree panel as is".
>
> The other thing you want to do is hook it up to power about once a month
> and run it for about 30 minutes. Some folks have found problems when the
> instrument sits in the box for months on end and then after installation
> have discovered that the electric gyro is locked up. Probably one of those
> use it or loose it scenarios with regard to self lubricating bearings. I
> run mine regularly and even though I still have not made my first flight,
> it's still working great.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8A ( cowling... )
> O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
> N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stupid Mistake |
>I am not going to remove and replace the skins, and I am not going to do
>anything about it until I get it out of the jig....
Good decision. I think you should leave the skin on for several reasons:
drilling it off, enlarging a bunch of holes, waiting for another skin,
putting the other skin back on, is going to take TIME and it may not turn
out as well as the skin that is on there.
And you will have such a great looking airplane when it's finished, no one
but you (and now all of us; HA!) will notice. We will all forget and so
will you. The more time I have on my airplane, the less I remember where
the errors are. In fact, I don't think there are any anymore.
I would NOT cut off the flange; it is too close to your bulkheads and it
would be difficult to get a flange to fit on the inside of the skin. You
could build a cover plate that had a flange on it and that mounted from
inside rather than outside, so the cover will still be flush with the (now)
raised hole. Put nutplates on the flange of the cover plate. Countersink
the screw holes in the skin. Fill the other 2 holes (per screw hole) in the
skin where the nut plates were going to go with a rivet and drill a hole on
the flange to allow room for those shop heads. You can make a "handle" on
the cover plate (to help hold it in the inspection hole while you start the
screws) by putting a nutplate in the center of the cover plate, using a
screw for the "handle", then screwing it flush when you have the cover
plate secured. Then make up some lies about added strength, easier to get a
hand in, Chuck Yeager suggested you do it this way, works like a trim tab
by disrupting airflow in front of the rudder but not as obvious, that's
where the radar altimeter sensor is mounted, etc.
Keep BUILDING; then you fly. You are going to love this airplane.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
And I did my tail fairings by taking........Hey............what are you
doing? Don't look there........
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Left Hand Drill Bits |
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
Does any one know where to find left hand drill bits? I called Averys
and they don't sell them and she didn't know where to find them.
Cecil Hatfield
Thousand Oaks California
RV6A
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Left Hand Drill Bits |
Left hand drill bits? Hmmm, let me see here. Didn't I see those in Home
Depot, just past the rolls of flight line, before you get to the 5 gallon
buckets of prop wash, and across the isle from the left handed hammer
wrenches?
Bill
-4 wings
>
> Does any one know where to find left hand drill bits? I called Averys
> and they don't sell them and she didn't know where to find them.
>
>
> Cecil Hatfield
> Thousand Oaks California
> RV6A
>
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: CD Player/Icom |
This is interesting, but seems very expensive to me.
The area of audio technology is changing faster than GPS technology.
Digital music formats are increasing in capacity and coming down in cost.
If you want a CD player in your airplane (and who doesn't?), just plug a
portable into the music input jack of any of the PS Engineering models and
you've got it for a lot less jack. This is what I've seen done most. Even
the inexpensive players can usually be supported in a way that keeps them
from skipping. I just sit mine on the seat next to me. (When I'm not using
a new (and not yet released to the public) RCA digital player.) That way,
you can unplug and plug in models as they change. I have stereo music with
the same features you've described below for about $325, if my memory serves
me correctly.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 Indianapolis (105 hours)
----- Original Message -----
From: Edward Cole <edwardmcole(at)home.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2000 9:57 PM
Subject: RV-List: CD Player/Icom
>
> Listers,
> While Avionics surfing , I came across this announcement from PS
> engineering.
> They are introducing a CD Player combined with an Intercom system.
> Price is $995 list.
>
> I've included their descri[ption of the unit:
> For more info and pictures go to: www.ps-engineering.com and look for the
> PCD-7100
>
> Ed Cole
> RV6A Finishing Kit
>
>
> As the leader in cockpit audio, we have often been asked to recommend an
> entertainment device for general aviation aircraft. This had been
difficult,
> because the selection was limited, and expensive.
> Not any more!
> The PCD7100-Series integrated Intercom and entertainment system is
> designed from the beginning for aircraft installations. By combining a
> superb Compact Disk (CD) player with a high-performance intercom and audio
> system, installation and operation is simplified.
> The PCD7100 incorporates PS Engineering's exclusive IntelliVox, the
> completely automatic digitally controlled intercom squelch. IntelliVox
has
> been a proven performer in all types of aircraft, from warbirds to
> helicopters.
> The PCD7100 has music and intercom volume controls, for precise
> adjustment of the audio levels. The five back-lit CD push button controls
> have LED mode annunciation are Play/Pause, Skip, Repeat, Stop and Eject.
> In ISO mode, the pilot hears only aircraft radio traffic, without
music
> or intercom interruptions. In crew mode, the pilot and copilot hear the
> internal CD player, and radio traffic. The passengers can either listen to
> the internal player, or use another entertainment source, depending on
> installation configuration.
> Like all PS Engineering intercoms, both the pilot and copilot have
> transmit capability over the aircraft radios
> In ALL mode, all intercom positions hear the aircraft radios and the
CD
> player, with our proprietary "Soft Mute" circuit.
> What about vibration? The Compact Disk Player is designed to withstand
> severe turbulence and very hard landings without missing a beat. The
> PCD7100 will be well suited to any aircraft cockpit or cabin vibration
> environment. The PCD7100 is also very tolerant of unusual attitudes, and
> will function in almost any normal category pitch or roll condition.
> The automatic fail-safe feature (EMG) connects the pilot directly to
the
> aircraft radios if power is removed from the PCD7100 for any reason.
> The CD-only version (PCD7100-P) provides compatible music outputs for
> most General Aviation audio systems and intercoms.
> The PCD7100-EX can support eight intercom positions, with CD music and
> IntelliVox. The CD music can also be distributed to the main intercom
> system.
> An available Digital Recorder and Audio Warning System (DRAWS) version
> can be ordered that will store 60-seconds of radio traffic for instant
> replay. In addition, up to six alert messages can be programmed to direct
> the pilot's attention to out-of-limit conditions, if interfaced with
> compatible aircraft systems.
> The system was designed for maximum ergonomic simplicity, with easy to
> see and use buttons in a natural configuration. The PCD7100 is
manufactured
> in the USA, and will be FAA-Approved to the most current international
> standards. PS Engineering's 1-year no-hassle warranty and ProSupport
program
> back the units for a lifetime of worry free operation.
>
>
> ----
>
> FEATURES
>
> Integrated 6-place Stereo Intercom IRS (Intercom Recording System) Option
> IntelliVox automatic VOX squelch CD-only option
> Isolate, Crew and All intercom modes Expansion Capability
> Fail-safe operation Vibration-resistant CD player
> FAA-TSO Approval (pending) No RFI emissions to interfere with
communications
> or other avionics
> Dual music capability w/ soft mute Reads CD-R and CD-RW disks
> No hassle 1- year warranty Aural Warning System
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Holding hinge pins in cowling |
> I am working on my cowling and wondering how people have
> held the hinge pins inside the cowling? This would be the for
> the two hinges at the back of the top cowling;
A piece of 3/4" angle riveted to the firewall, approx. the length of the
distance between the two hinge sections, with notches at both ends, approx.
3-4" down from the top of the firewall. Bend the last 4" of the hinge pins
90 degrees then adjust that that so that the bent parts fit into the notches
under a little preload.
> the two hinges on the back sides of
> the bottom cowling;
Nothing needed really -- they don't seem to want to move, but even if they
tried to work their way up they'd soon stop at the top cowl. Bend some large
loops in the tops of the pins so you can pull them out easily and leave it
at that.
> and the two hinges on the back bottom of the
> bottom cowling.
I didn't use hinges there after hearing about all the instances of hinge
eyes breaking. Instead riveted two pieces of .063 to the bottom firewall
flange and used screws/nutplates (3 each side). No problems so far in 175
hrs.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Left Hand Drill Bits |
Bill, I know it was tongue in cheek but they do make left handed twist
drills. They are very useful in drilled out a broken right hand thread stud
or bolt as just the drilling action some times removes the broken piece. One
place one might find them is in a patented "ez out" that also includes the
drill bit.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2000 10:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Left Hand Drill Bits
>
> Left hand drill bits? Hmmm, let me see here. Didn't I see those in Home
> Depot, just past the rolls of flight line, before you get to the 5 gallon
> buckets of prop wash, and across the isle from the left handed hammer
> wrenches?
>
> Bill
> -4 wings
>
>
> >
> > Does any one know where to find left hand drill bits? I called Averys
> > and they don't sell them and she didn't know where to find them.
> >
> >
> > Cecil Hatfield
> > Thousand Oaks California
> > RV6A
> >
> > GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> > Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Left Hand Drill Bits |
Snap on sell them. They are great for removing screws then the heads get bad.
Stan Mehrhoff
RV-8 ready for inspection
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BELTEDAIR(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Left Hand Drill Bits |
Cecil, try MSC 1-800-645-7270 their catalog is about 5 inches thick but they
list the left hand drills pages15-16 34 142 144 hope this helps . Jess
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 tailwheel spring misalignment |
I've already emailed Van's about this problem but I thought I would invite
the few, the proud, the exceedingly opinionated, the members of the RV-List
to weigh in.
My RV-4 project is up to the point where it's on it's main gear and the tail
feathers are attached and functional. A fellow RV-4 builder came over this
weekend to see what I was up to. It's always a good idea to have another
set of eyes look things over. Well, I'm glad he came over because he
spotted a major problem that I had not noticed.
My tailwheel spring is canted to the left by about .5 to .75 inches at the
tailwheel. It doesn't sound like much but it is noticable when you sight
down the centerline of the airplane. I have some thoughts as to how to fix
it but I don't want to bias anyone. So please, opnions, suggestions,
answers?
I'll buy lunch for the person that comes up with the simplest yet safest
solution! If you're not in the California Central Valley you'll have to
wait until the plane is flying... :-)
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Left Hand Drill Bits |
11/27/2000 12:08:35 PM
I got mine where I got my left hand threaded aviation nuts & bolts. My
theory was that right hand fasteners vibrate loose so left handed fasteners
will vibrate tight. Don't left hand drill bits add metal ??
"Bill Shook" (at)matronics.com on 11/27/2000
11:00:42 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Left Hand Drill Bits
Left hand drill bits? Hmmm, let me see here. Didn't I see those in Home
Depot, just past the rolls of flight line, before you get to the 5 gallon
buckets of prop wash, and across the isle from the left handed hammer
wrenches?
Bill
-4 wings
>
> Does any one know where to find left hand drill bits? I called Averys
> and they don't sell them and she didn't know where to find them.
>
>
> Cecil Hatfield
> Thousand Oaks California
> RV6A
>
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
To those who expressed interest, just wanted to update you on my search
for an electric DG with heading bug to be used with the S-Tec 30
autopilot. In a nutshell, it doesn't exist. This was independently
confirmed by Martin Elshire at Aerotronics. The alternatives are a
$7,000 flight director such as the Century NSD 1000, or the Sandel
Electronic HSI unit which requires a remote gyro--or go with a vacuum
DG.
This has prompted me to go back and re-think my electrical system. I
have now decided to go with one B&C alternator and two 17-a.h. batteries
per Electric Bob's book--and go with the Sigma-Tek Gold Seal vacuum
pump, attitude indicator, and DG with the heading bug. This setup has
worked trouble free in my RV-4 for the past 10 years, and although the
vacuum pump is probably not as reliable as the second alternator would
have been, for the money involved the vacuum pump is not a bad
alternative. Also, I was hoping to avoid the extra plumbing, but this
is a small price to pay for the considerable cost savings.
To give you an idea, the Sigma-Tek vacuum pump, AI and DG will go for
about $2,000, a lot less than a $7,000 HSI, not to mention the
pad-mounted alternator, regulator and additional electrical hardware.
So for electrical redundancy, I'm going with the two batteries as backup
for the dual electronic ignitions. By the way, my avionics will consist
of the UPS package: SL15, MX20, GX60, SL30, SL70. Oh well, you only
live once. An HSI might be overkill.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hours TT
O-320, Hartzell C/S
RV-6, Fuselage
O-360, Hartzell C/s
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-4 tailwheel spring misalignment |
If I understand what you're describing, it doesn't sound like a big problem.
I wouldn't do anything about it. The only effect you'll see is (if you're
using the new tailwheel assy) that the locking mechanism might release at a
slightly different point on one side versus the other. How's that for
simple?!
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ ~55-hrs
Pearland, Texas
-----Original Message-----
From: Van Artsdalen, Scott [mailto:svanarts(at)unionsafe.com]
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2000 11:09 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 tailwheel spring misalignment
I've already emailed Van's about this problem but I thought I would invite
the few, the proud, the exceedingly opinionated, the members of the RV-List
to weigh in.
My RV-4 project is up to the point where it's on it's main gear and the tail
feathers are attached and functional. A fellow RV-4 builder came over this
weekend to see what I was up to. It's always a good idea to have another
set of eyes look things over. Well, I'm glad he came over because he
spotted a major problem that I had not noticed.
My tailwheel spring is canted to the left by about .5 to .75 inches at the
tailwheel. It doesn't sound like much but it is noticable when you sight
down the centerline of the airplane. I have some thoughts as to how to fix
it but I don't want to bias anyone. So please, opnions, suggestions,
answers?
I'll buy lunch for the person that comes up with the simplest yet safest
solution! If you're not in the California Central Valley you'll have to
wait until the plane is flying... :-)
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuse Blocks - Hinged |
11/27/2000 01:49:40 PM
""...... I have 18 inch service loops on all my wiring and vacuum
plumbing. The
service loop to the breaker panel is about 1 1/4 inches in diameter so is
not very flexible. However, removing the panel and setting it on the seat
is a whole lot easier than crawling under the panel!""............
DC current in looped wire can cause magnetic fields and associated compass
distress. Have you noticed anything in this area...or is this one of those
book things where the book say this, but practical experience shows
something else ..??
"Dennis Persyk" (at)matronics.com on 11/26/2000
01:35:44 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuse Blocks - Hinged
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com <Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com>
Date: Sunday, November 26, 2000 12:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuse Blocks
>
>Norman,
>
>I mounted mine on a hinged door in the baggage compartment ( 8A ) that I
>have had occasion to open and close many many times>
>If you want to check out my install my site is
>http://www.homestead.com/RV8A/files/ on the panel page
>
>Jim Andrews
>RV-8A ( cowl... )
>O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
>N89JA reserved
>
Very nice layout, Jim! I note that you have adequately addressed the area
of strain relief. I was going to caution Norman about that but your
excellent photo collection tells it all!
You will be feeding the fuse blocks with AWG 8 or so, and then fanning out
with many AWG 16 to 22, depending on loads. That bundle of wires, starting
with the quite inflexible #8, constitutes a real boa constrictor of wires
that requires considerable force to move. Hence the concern for a hinged
mount, lest the hinging action put too much force on the fuse holders. Jim
has solved that potential problem nicely.
I have 18 inch service loops on all my wiring and vacuum plumbing. The
service loop to the breaker panel is about 1 1/4 inches in diameter so is
not very flexible. However, removing the panel and setting it on the seat
is a whole lot easier than crawling under the panel!
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 15 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric DG why not GPSS??? |
Pat,
I was just wondering why you have to have a heading bug? Why not just use
the GPSS? http://www.s-tec.com/gpss.html
Ross
----- Original Message -----
From: "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com>
> This has prompted me to go back and re-think my electrical system. I
> have now decided to go with one B&C alternator and two 17-a.h. batteries
> per Electric Bob's book--and go with the Sigma-Tek Gold Seal vacuum
> pump, attitude indicator, and DG with the heading bug.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Left Hand Drill Bits |
I'm not a Democrat but I still hit my delete button!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Starn
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2000 10:37 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Left Hand Drill Bits
"democrats" PLEASE HIT YOUR DELETE BUTTON
5% -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
I've got the following items for sale:
- SIRs Pegasus (panel mount) compass (lighted - 12v): I paid $179: I'll
take $160
- United altimeter (20K, inches & mBar, lighted): I paid $440: I'll take
$425
I'll pay for shipping.
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 N118KB (reserved)
getting ready to mount the gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked Case O-320 |
the seller is correct, the case is repairable. They
will weld the crack and reheat treat the case if it is
done properly. Cost should be around the 400 to 800
dollar range for this repair and that may be a little
high.
The cam I would just trash and buy a new one, you can
get new cams all day long for cheap, and it is good
insurance (peace of mind) the cylinders if you have
the money you can get all 4 new not exchange with
brand new pistons to boot for 4000.00. Then you just
about have a new engine for less than 10 grand. WHAT A
BARGAIN
Glenn Williams
--- Steve Hurlbut wrote:
>
>
> I have a chance to buy a O-320 but it has a "cracked
> case".
> The seller claims this can be easily repaired. Any
> input?
>
> As well the cam shaft needed polishing and the
> cylinders need to be
> re-worked.
> I'm sure Bart Lalonde can handle this but any
> thought on the cost?
>
> Thankx
> Steve Hurlbut
> Comox, BC
> RV-6A
> shurlbut(at)island.net
>
>
>
> support the
> Lists
> moment to
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rvs 4all" <rvs4all(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: sustained knife edge flight |
yes, when you roll to knife edge with the nose pointed up to attempt to
maintain altitude, you definatly put force on the windward side of the
plane. That's the whole point of cocking the nose up. Your force the air
against the side of the aeroplane - canopy very much included. It's like
sticking your hand out the car window while it's moving. Your arm is no
airfoil but air hitting the bottom of your hand/arm is enough to keep it up.
So canopy, vertical stab, cabanes, struts, whatever you got on the
windward side is going to be subject to loads during nose up knife edge. It
PARTLY explains why a Extra 300L, with it's 2 place canopy, sustains knife
edges easier than a Extra 300S with it's only single seat cockpit. Same
thing as in a slip. The side facing the direction of flight is going to get
some air force acting on it.
I'd guess that if you pitched the nose up 20 degrees at 120 mph, rolled to
knife edge, applied full top rudder which would keep the plane at about 20
degrees nose up (just guessing here on what that pitch angle might be), the
wind component on the side facing the oncoming air would be approximately 20
sin of 120 mph force on the front of the plane. About equal to 41mph.
Probably not a problem but I wouldn't want to volunteer to be the first to
try.
----Original Message Follows----
From: bcbraem(at)home.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: sustained knife edge flight
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 16:57:09 -0500
lucky--
I'm not sure I really understand the canopy question. There are really
no bizarre forces acting the canopy in either knife-edge or inverted
flight--unless your harness isn't tight and you're hitting the canopy
with your body. If you subscribe to the-fuselage-as-airfoil theory for
knife-edge flying, then some high-pressure exists of the "down" side of
the fuselage while "up" side of the fuselage is low-pressure area.
But, I've never heard of the pilot of any aerobatic plane having to do
such a "reinforcement".
You can save a lot of money by copying the parts list from The Christen
(Aviat) manual and then buying the parts separately from other
suppliers. Lycoming also puts out an Engine Operator's Manual for their
aerobatic engine series that details the changes required. Last I hear
they were still getting their parts from Aviat.
The big concern with sustained knife-edge flight with a Lycoming AEIO-
engine or the Aviat conversion is to do them LEFT WING DOWN as that is
the side of the sump the oil pick-up line is on.
But, take a look at the drawings and the recommendations for the
placement of the certain parts and the running of the oil lines and make
your own choice.
>
>
> I'm curious if anyone's got any direct experience in how well a RV-6 or 8
> slider canopy holds up to sustained knife edge flight. Anyone know of a
web
> site where someone's done any mods to the canopys to increase side load
> strength?
>
> Also, $700 for an inverted oil system sounds like an opportunity to learn
to
> build a system for less. Anyone have any ideas on where I can find plans
> and parts? Anyone done this yet?
>
> TIA,
> lucky
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Fuse Blocks - Hinged |
If you looped that wire around a pencil many times and kept the loops
closely packed, you'd have yourself an inductor or coil. If you stuck a
piece of iron through the middle of it, you'd have yourself an
electro-magnet. If you made one large service loop (2 in. diam. or more)
then you'd have yourself a nice, clean, serviceable installation. I
wouldn't worry about it. I did this in some places as well.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: pcondon(at)csc.com [mailto:pcondon(at)csc.com]
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2000 10:51 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuse Blocks - Hinged
""...... I have 18 inch service loops on all my wiring and
vacuum
plumbing. The
service loop to the breaker panel is about 1 1/4 inches in
diameter so is
not very flexible. However, removing the panel and setting
it on the seat
is a whole lot easier than crawling under the
panel!""............
DC current in looped wire can cause magnetic fields and
associated compass
distress. Have you noticed anything in this area...or is
this one of those
book things where the book say this, but practical
experience shows
something else ..??
"Dennis Persyk" (at)matronics.com on
11/26/2000
01:35:44 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
To:
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuse Blocks - Hinged
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com <Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Sunday, November 26, 2000 12:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuse Blocks
>
>Norman,
>
>I mounted mine on a hinged door in the baggage compartment
( 8A ) that I
>have had occasion to open and close many many times>
>If you want to check out my install my site is
>http://www.homestead.com/RV8A/files/ on the panel page
>
>Jim Andrews
>RV-8A ( cowl... )
>O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
>N89JA reserved
>
Very nice layout, Jim! I note that you have adequately
addressed the area
of strain relief. I was going to caution Norman about that
but your
excellent photo collection tells it all!
You will be feeding the fuse blocks with AWG 8 or so, and
then fanning out
with many AWG 16 to 22, depending on loads. That bundle of
wires, starting
with the quite inflexible #8, constitutes a real boa
constrictor of wires
that requires considerable force to move. Hence the concern
for a hinged
mount, lest the hinging action put too much force on the
fuse holders. Jim
has solved that potential problem nicely.
I have 18 inch service loops on all my wiring and vacuum
plumbing. The
service loop to the breaker panel is about 1 1/4 inches in
diameter so is
not very flexible. However, removing the panel and setting
it on the seat
is a whole lot easier than crawling under the panel!
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 15 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Holding hinge pins in cowling. Long |
We, Tom & I, have not yet completed this method yet, but we are working on
it. We found that using a drill motor hooked to the pin and spinning it into
the eyes seemd to be the way to do it. With that being said. we are going to
thread one end of the pin and grind to a rounded point on the other. We are
then going to attach the "coupling" end from a bicycle or motorcycle wheel
spoke (depending on size and threads availble) about 1/3 to 1/2 way into the
"coupling". We will weld that coupling onto the pin. We will then make a
"tool" that threads into the open end of the coupling, (right hand threads
of course) and a drill motor (in-line type) long enough to reach into the
cowl, screw into the coupling and stick out thru the hole in the leading
edge
lip of the cowl at least 6 inches to make connection to drill motor. We will
screw the "tool" into the "coupling" and while turning the pin, extract or
set the
pin in place. Making a small diamond shaped cover to close the hole and keep
the pin inside the eyes and the cowl. Should have photos as soon as
completed.
KABONG HRII Final stuff
----- Original Message -----
From: Medema, Douglas K. <doug.medema@physio-control.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2000 10:39 PM
Subject: RV-List: Holding hinge pins in cowling
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Which Level To Buy? |
November 19, 2000 - November 27, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-jr