RV-Archive.digest.vol-ju
- - - , 20- - December 12, 2000
The cylinder should be sized to easily slip over the TC (or CDI or
whatever). Its length should ideally be 1.5 X the length of the TC to reduce
end effects. By all means purchase it spot welded together because forming
mu metal causes it to lose its shielding properties.
To save cost, tell the contact you'd like to consider stock "PMT shields".
These are made in large quantities (over 100 000 per year) and perhaps an
off-the-shelf item will work.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 22 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
| From: | Jerry Calvert <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | compass magnetic interference |
>
>The intruments, switches, cables, etc., are test mounted in the panel to
>check all the clearances. Everything fits great and the tip-up frame
clears
>everything. Time to do a little hanger flying complete with noises! My
>fuselage faces due North and a quick check of the compass says we are
>heading West! The EGC Turn Coordinator is swinging the compass! The
>compass is mounted about 3 inches from the TC. I can remove the TC and the
>compass settles back to the North.
>
>I can switch the compass with another 2 1/4" instrument and try to find a
>sweet spot, but I have the compass right where I want it. Any ideas on how
>to leave it where it is and make it work????
>
>Jerry Calvert
>Edmond Ok
>-6 fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bezinque, David" <David_Bezinque(at)MAXTOR.COM> |
| Subject: | RV6 sliding canopy painting question |
I am wondering what the best way is to paint the sliding canopy
aluminum parts. I plan to paint the inside surfaces to match the "Polar
Grey" of the rest of the cockpit before assembly. I am still not sure what
color to paint the airplane, so can I mask off all the Plexiglas and prime
and paint the exterior later, after the canopy is assembled? I am especially
concerned about the aluminum strip across the top of the canopy. Does any
paint that gets under the masking tape affect the Plexiglas?
Dave Bezinque
RV-6 QB
david_bezinque(at)maxtor.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | The Razers <razer(at)midwest.net> |
Richard Lockwood is in need of a DAR to inspect his newly completed 6A.
His aircraft is located at the Williamson County Arpt in Marion, IL.
Please contact him by phone 618-964-1553. He does not have internet service.
chet razer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Chet,
I suggest you tell RIchard to talk to his local FISDO or call EAA. Many
(most?) FISDOs require the complete paperwork be submitted to them and the
FISDO then notifies a DAR that he may inspect the plane.
Dennis Persyk went through this last month
-----Original Message-----
From: The Razers <razer(at)midwest.net>
Date: Thursday, December 07, 2000 11:50 AM
Subject: RV-List: DAR Needed
>
>Richard Lockwood is in need of a DAR to inspect his newly completed 6A.
>His aircraft is located at the Williamson County Arpt in Marion, IL.
>Please contact him by phone 618-964-1553. He does not have internet
service.
>
>chet razer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 vs hawk |
To add to the helmet discussion..during my masters sudies at Central Missouri State
University we took a great class on aircraft accident investigation and studied
many aircraft accidents that year. One common cause of death to light
aircraft pilots and passengers, in very survivable accidents, was trauma to the
head caused by the impact of the instrument panel, windshield, controls, or
cabin frame. Most of these accidents were forced/emergency landings that suffered
from poor execution or hostile terrain (trees!!). Helmets not only protect
from bird strikes, but are a great asset in a forced or emergency landing.
Ive been skiing for 25 years and finally I see that helmets have become popular
in another sport that has the possibility of head injury...Im currently shopping
for a ski helmet to protect me from what I have know for years is an activity
that could result in a head injury...maybe the sport aviation industry, especially
those of us flying aircraft with bubble type!
canopys that need a bit more pr
otection than a 172 pilot, will go the way of the ski industry and helmet use will
increase. Im not close to flying my RV yet..but I would seriously consider
a helmet when the time comes. For what thats worth!!
Kurt, OKC, OK
RV-6A/Finishing Kit
MS Aviation Safety/CFI/ATP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Cylinder Head Temp |
Dear Listers,
I have an RV-4 with an 0-320. The CHT consistently runs about 350 to 400
degrees. Nothing to be alarmed over, but it seems it could be cooler. I
have a single sparkplug gasket thermocouple on the #3 cyl. I recently read
that sparkplug gasket thermocouples tend to indicate 75 deg or so higher
than probes located in threaded bosses. Have any of you heard of this, or
better yet, have experience with both types of probes.
Best regards,
Don Mei
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Engine Preheaters |
Another one for the list:
I've been looking for an electric preheater. I think I'll go with the Rief.
Any suggestions or enlightenment here is appreciated.
My 2nd question is this. Does anyone make a fitted cowling blanket for an
RV-4, or should I just drape a sleeping bag over the nose. The sleeping bag
is fine in the hangar, but I'm thinking about when I go places and ould like
to keep the engine warm durring the time I'm out and about.
Best regards,
Don Mei
"Cold in Connecticut"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bird strikes |
Just a humorus note on this topic of noise -
A good friend of mine just got his RV-6 into the air recently and due to the
colder weather here in southern Alberta he thought that he would try out his
cabin heat and defroster. He had made the defrost tubing out of left over
corrigated tube that Van sells in the wiring kit and thought it was a great
application - until he opened the airflow at 180 mph! He said the noise was
so loud that he couldn't hear anything even with his head set on! When he
told me what had happened I asked him if he had ever seen an elk whistle
before - its just a corrigated tube to blow through.
That ought to have scared off many flocks of birds :->
Douglas G. Murray
Southern Alberta
> .......snip
> > Wonder if those little ultrasonic whistles you put on the front bumper
of
> > the car to scare deer will work on birds?? Maybe we need screamin'
> > airplanes... literally... :>)
> >
>
> Oh, I like that idea. Didn't the Stuka dive-bombers have something
attached
> to them that made that awsome sound? ;-)
>
> Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
I'm doing a little planning ahead here, but I've started the process of
finding a DAR to inspect my airplane next year. I've come up with a
list of names, one from the FSDO and five from the FAA website. The EAA
was unable to provide a single name in my area. What I'd like to know
(from anyone who's used one of these guys): how was the overall process
(reasonable, over-picky, etc.); when was your inspection & how much did
the guy charge; & how receptive was he to 'special' requests (larger
test area, etc.)? The names are:
Pete Connor
Corky Davison
Ray Gonzalez
Bill Murphy
Ed Delvecchio
Paul Delvecchio
BTW, these guys are all in the eastern New England area (mostly in MA).
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 N118KB (reserved)
mounting landing gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Preheaters |
> I've been looking for an electric preheater. I think I'll go with the
Rief.
> Any suggestions or enlightenment here is appreciated.
Don,
I would assume you have read the articles on the Rief site. I would
seriously consider the cylinder head heaters as well.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | ACK vs. Ameri-King ELT |
I'm getting ready to order an ELT from Van's. I like the weight savings of
the ACK E-01 compared to the Ameri-King AK-450 (about a pound?) but it
costs $30 more. Are there any other features besides weight and price that I
should consider?
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Fuselage
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Head Temp |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Dear Listers,
>
>I have an RV-4 with an 0-320. The CHT consistently runs about 350 to 400
>degrees. Nothing to be alarmed over, but it seems it could be cooler. I
>have a single sparkplug gasket thermocouple on the #3 cyl. I recently read
>that sparkplug gasket thermocouples tend to indicate 75 deg or so higher
>than probes located in threaded bosses. Have any of you heard of this, or
>better yet, have experience with both types of probes.
>
Don,
I don't have any information on the difference a sparkplug gasket
thermocouple makes, but with the standard location 350 to 400F would be
just about ideal for temperature according to the stuff I read. It is
not necessarily cooler is better. In fact 350 might be a little cool.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: DAR reviews? |
The reason they may not have listed with the EAA is that these particular
DARs may not do Experimental aircraft. There are many that don't. The FSDO
does not control this either. It is up to the DAR on what he wants to work
on. Do you know if these guys are willing to do, or have done, Experimental
aircraft.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
>From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com"
>Subject: RV-List: DAR reviews?
>Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 14:30:16 -0500
>
>
>I'm doing a little planning ahead here, but I've started the process of
>finding a DAR to inspect my airplane next year. I've come up with a
>list of names, one from the FSDO and five from the FAA website. The EAA
>was unable to provide a single name in my area. What I'd like to know
>(from anyone who's used one of these guys): how was the overall process
>(reasonable, over-picky, etc.); when was your inspection & how much did
>the guy charge; & how receptive was he to 'special' requests (larger
>test area, etc.)? The names are:
>
>Pete Connor
>Corky Davison
>Ray Gonzalez
>Bill Murphy
>Ed Delvecchio
>Paul Delvecchio
>
>BTW, these guys are all in the eastern New England area (mostly in MA).
>
>--
>Regards,
>Ken Balch
>Ashland, MA
>RV-8 #81125 N118KB (reserved)
>mounting landing gear
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ACK vs. Ameri-King ELT |
>
> I'm getting ready to order an ELT from Van's. I like the weight savings of
> the ACK E-01 compared to the Ameri-King AK-450 (about a pound?) but it
> costs $30 more. Are there any other features besides weight and price that
I
> should consider?
I purchased the ACK for both my Citabria and RV. I had heard comments about
poor customer service from Ameri-King. I don't know how true those comments
were, but I am happy with the quality and simplicity of the ACK unit.
Doug Weiler
Mn Wing
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: DAR reviews? |
Good point. I've heard that Corky & Ray do inspections on homebuilts. The
others I know nothing about. I was holding off on calling them until I received
some feedback.
Ken
Mike Robertson wrote:
>
> The reason they may not have listed with the EAA is that these particular
> DARs may not do Experimental aircraft. There are many that don't. The FSDO
> does not control this either. It is up to the DAR on what he wants to work
> on. Do you know if these guys are willing to do, or have done, Experimental
> aircraft.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A N809RS
>
> >From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com"
> >Subject: RV-List: DAR reviews?
> >Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 14:30:16 -0500
> >
> >
> >I'm doing a little planning ahead here, but I've started the process of
> >finding a DAR to inspect my airplane next year. I've come up with a
> >list of names, one from the FSDO and five from the FAA website. The EAA
> >was unable to provide a single name in my area. What I'd like to know
> >(from anyone who's used one of these guys): how was the overall process
> >(reasonable, over-picky, etc.); when was your inspection & how much did
> >the guy charge; & how receptive was he to 'special' requests (larger
> >test area, etc.)? The names are:
> >
> >Pete Connor
> >Corky Davison
> >Ray Gonzalez
> >Bill Murphy
> >Ed Delvecchio
> >Paul Delvecchio
> >
> >BTW, these guys are all in the eastern New England area (mostly in MA).
> >
> >--
> >Regards,
> >Ken Balch
> >Ashland, MA
> >RV-8 #81125 N118KB (reserved)
> >mounting landing gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
Don, I know when my 0320E2B is knocking and with (H) 9 to 1 pistons it
knocks under load with amocco super priemum unleaded.This is not maybe
or guesswork.Under these conditions you may want to stay with 100LL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RVers in So. MS & LA |
I am planning a trip 12/16 west to Houston in my RV-6 and my wife doesn't
want to fly straight thru. I am looking for recommendations on where to
overnight in southern MS or LA. I'd prefer smaller airports 'cause there're
cheaper (usually.) An added bonus would be to meet up with another RV
builder/flyer. Any recommendations or places to avoid?
TIA,
Rick Caldwell
-6 164 hrs & trying to see what's over the horizon with those wings
Melbourne, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: RV6 sliding canopy painting question |
David,
I painted my canopy after it was assembled. Just removed it from the
airplane and masked it off. I'd recommend using 3M fineline tape instead of
masking tape around the edges. be sure to press the tape edge down good and
no paint will get under. I used PPG Concept paint and there is not any
visible detrimental effects on the plastic where the paint touches it.
Rick Caldwell
-6 165 hrs since 1/12/00
Melbourne, FL
>From: "Bezinque, David" <David_Bezinque(at)MAXTOR.COM>
>Reply-To: rv6-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "'rv6-list(at)matronics.com'"
>Subject: RV6-List: RV6 sliding canopy painting question
>Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 10:45:35 -0700
>
>--> RV6-List message posted by: "Bezinque, David"
>
>
> I am wondering what the best way is to paint the sliding canopy
>aluminum parts. I plan to paint the inside surfaces to match the "Polar
>Grey" of the rest of the cockpit before assembly. I am still not sure what
>color to paint the airplane, so can I mask off all the Plexiglas and prime
>and paint the exterior later, after the canopy is assembled? I am
>especially
>concerned about the aluminum strip across the top of the canopy. Does any
>paint that gets under the masking tape affect the Plexiglas?
>
>
>Dave Bezinque
>RV-6 QB
>david_bezinque(at)maxtor.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ACK vs. Ameri-King ELT |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I just installed the AK-450 behind the RH seat. It has to set in a
position that the RV don't have room for.
It you build a bracket behind the 606 which looked like a JOB to me & run
the telephone interface to the control, you will have to cut one end off
& crip it back on to route the wire. Same thing on the molded antenia.
It was free, so I lived with it , but I would look for something that
will fit & look OK in the baggage area. What gets you while trying to get
it installed is it is worhtless. 97% of the time it goes off, it is a
false alarm, the other 3% & you are likely dead.
Don Jordan RV6A Arlington, Tx
*****************************************
>
> I'm getting ready to order an ELT from Van's. I like the weight
> savings of
> the ACK E-01 compared to the Ameri-King AK-450 (about a pound?) but
> it
> costs $30 more. Are there any other features besides weight and
> price that I
> should consider?
>
> Chris Heitman
> Dousman WI
> RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
> Fuselage
> http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 sliding canopy painting question |
In a message dated 12/7/00 12:51:12 PM Eastern Standard Time,
David_Bezinque(at)MAXTOR.COM writes:
> >
>
> I am wondering what the best way is to paint the sliding canopy
> aluminum parts. I plan to paint the inside surfaces to match the "Polar
> Grey" of the rest of the cockpit before assembly. I am still not sure what
> color to paint the airplane, so can I mask off all the Plexiglas and prime
> and paint the exterior later, after the canopy is assembled? I am especially
> concerned about the aluminum strip across the top of the canopy. Does any
> paint that gets under the masking tape affect the Plexiglas?
>
>
>
Dave,
On mine, I painted the inside of the pieces before I riveted the thing
together. Only a few unpainted shop heads show on the inside.
On the outside, I just masked and painted it. No real problem, but you do
want to use a sealant or something to form a fillet (or at least a seal)
between the aluminum and plexi. Pro-seal works, and there are several other
suggestions in the archives.
I masked so the primer would extend maybe 1/32 onto the plexi, with the paint
going 1/32 beyond that (I may be overstating my masking abilities a little).
I think this is an accepted method.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: ACK vs. Ameri-King ELT |
In a message dated 12/7/00 5:07:16 PM Eastern Standard Time, dons6a(at)juno.com
writes:
> >
> > I'm getting ready to order an ELT from Van's. I like the weight
> > savings of
> > the ACK E-01 compared to the Ameri-King AK-450 (about a pound?) but
> > it
> > costs $30 more. Are there any other features besides weight and
> > price that I
> > should consider?
> >
> > Chris Heitman
> > Dousman WI
> > RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
> > Fuselage
> > http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
>
I can't remember which is which, but the longer, skinny one can be mounted in
the floorboards between the pilot's and passenger's legs, and will still
leave room for a small fire extinguisher mounted alongside. Both the
extinguisher and ELT will fit between the center two floor rails, keeping
them handy (for the extinguisher), and out of the way of your feet. This is
what I did, both for convenince, and w/b issues.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | RV-4 Paint Job Photo's |
Warning!
This is what happens when you let your wife and a Graphic Artist modify your
paint scheme. I had a nice conservative blue on the top white on the bottom
and a checked tail.
Randall said do not do anything swoopy, oops
http://hometown.aol.com/robhickman/index.html
I will update the web page every day so that you can see the progress.
-Rob Hickman
RV-4 ~100HRS Down for Paint
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: RV6 sliding canopy painting question |
In fact, when I painted my canopy frame I painted about a 1" strip around
the front edge of the canopy plexi (where the cut line is) to cover the pop
rivets/spacers from showing when the canopy is open. I used Concept also,
and it looks great, didn't harm the Plexi at all, and it doesn't even
scratch from sliding under the windscreen fairing. Great stuff.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A, 0320-D1a (160hp)
Sensenich 70x78, N427EM, 400hrs.
ebundy(at)micron.net
> I painted my canopy after it was assembled. Just removed it from the
> airplane and masked it off. I'd recommend using 3M fineline tape instead
of
> masking tape around the edges. be sure to press the tape edge down good
and
> no paint will get under. I used PPG Concept paint and there is not any
> visible detrimental effects on the plastic where the paint touches it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Engine making metal |
In a message dated 12/07/2000 11:52:41 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Johnny(at)wiktel.com writes:
> Bill,
>
> My heart goes out to you... same thing happened to me a year ago last July
> at about 240 SMOH. The cam was eating itself up on the "double pusher"
> lobes, and the lifters were badly pitted. We suspect long periods of not
> getting run in the airplane's past somewhere.
Johnny: thanks, old man. I'm not really sure where this is all headed. I'm
at 155 hrs since the major, in which we returned the cam to service after
magnaflux and dimensional inspection. The lifters were odd-lot units from
the parts drawer at the overhauler's shop... perhaps a troubling sign in
retrospect. Polishing and cleaning these lifters and assembling them into
the bodies was one of the few parts of the o'haul I helped with myself. I
have used break in oil, later Aero-shell 15w-50, and never gone long periods
between flights (never idle more than 3 weeks, usually fly 1-2x/week) but I
do have an oil sump Reiff heater which I often leave plugged in continuously
in the hangar. Some say this invites condensation and rust in the upper
reaches of the case. I may get to find out!
My engine has really been making more or less the same amount of metal since
the overhaul was completed (and it was in very fine shape at the tear down
when it had 2000 hrs on it.) The flakes are mostly all fine shiny magnetic
pieces that look like silver glitter. I'd say if you crushed single coffee
bean, you'd have a volume of crumbs equal to the metal I'm getting from the
screen every 25 hrs.
The jury is still out on the engine's general health, as I have only now
started to document and track the static run-up max rpm, and am due for a
compression check. I have oil samples saved from the last 3 changes, but
have not sent them for analysis yet (too cheap to spend the bux and too lazy
to order the kit unless I need to know later.)
Our plan for now is to check the oil screen every 5 hours or so and do a
compression test this weekend, while monitoring engine power by the static
rpm measurements. If the metal does not slack off, a diagnostic teardown
will be inevitable. I'm hoping it's a scored jug, but like you, we suspect a
cam failure, in which case the engine should lose power and the wear should
accelerate, with ever more metal showing up. I wonder if some of the metal
is just picked up from the sump and trapped long after it was made during
break-in. But then I can't say why it isn't drained out during oil changes.
Just wishful thinking, I suppose. I'm bracing myself for a $550 cam and
$175 set of lifters, plus new main bearings (likely metal contamination) and
labor. Ouch! Operating costs per hour just spiked!
I will let the list know how this turns out.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/FP Sensenich
Hop-Along Airfield - 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Preheaters |
>
>I've been looking for an electric preheater. I think I'll go with the
>Rief.
> Any suggestions or enlightenment here is appreciated.
>
>My 2nd question is this. Does anyone make a fitted cowling blanket for an
>RV-4, or should I just drape a sleeping bag over the nose. The sleeping
>bag
>is fine in the hangar, but I'm thinking about when I go places and ould
>like
>to keep the engine warm durring the time I'm out and about.
>
>Best regards,
>
>Don Mei
Don,
FWIW, a simple, Home Depot type electric shop heater with a duct attached to
it works GREAT for keeping your engine toasty warm 24/7 while in your
hangar. I spent a whopping $35 to put one together (heater, duct flange and
length of clothes dryer duct) and I just leave it on, with foam plugs in the
cowling inlets to keep the heat in. I arrive in the morning to a fully
warmed engine compartment ready to start. For out of town trips, the
permanently installed Reif type of system is certainly more practical, but
how often do you leave your airplane tied down outside, during the winter?
I would rather pay for a preheat from the FBO where I have the plane parked
than to pay for an engine preheater system that is on the plane (read: being
hauled around as useless weight) year round. Agreed, our winters in NM
aren't nearly as brutal as up north, but it still gets me by when the
nighttime temps drop into the teens. After I pull the foam plugs, I can put
my hands on the cylinder fins inside the inlets and it is noticeably warm,
as well as the top of the cowling. Heating the entire engine compartment
serves another benefit in some RV-8's: warms the firewall mounted
battery...which does wonders to help keep the electrons in it. ;)
Best of luck in your decision.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
159 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Paint Job Photo's |
Wow! I have to say that is one seriously beautiful paint job. Damn, I
really like it. Being on a -4 just endears it to my heart even more...
Very nice, very very nice......
Bill
-4 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Listers,
Don has made some good observations which I'd like to add to, if I
may. I've had a tad more than five months experience with my -6A.
>>1)I have an 0-320 in my RV-4 - 150Hp and have been playing
around with auto fuel for the last 5 months. I keep 80 octane in the
left wing and 93 octane in the right wing. I am very careful to takeoff
and land on the aviation fuel. (maybe its unnecessary but I'll err on
the conservative side) I've never noticed any difference in how the
engine ran while on the auto fuel. Same CHT, egt.<<
Boy, is that 80 octane avgas rare around here! :-) In my case, I've
been running 87 octane in my 150hp engine because I know from
experience that it's just fine for it. I don't run avgas in mine unless I
need to give mine that periodic infusion of lead that we've read so
much about. That's done at about fifty tach hour intervals. The only
difference I've ever seen relates to vapor locking at fast turn
arounds. The 100LL avgas is less prone to do it. BTW, I did run
100LL in mine for about ten hours when I first started flying my RV.
I probably should have gone a bit longer than that; but, I've seen no
ill effects from not going longer. The engine seemed to be breaking
in just fine, by that time. Since then, I've put 100LL in it once at
about 50 hours.
>>2) I don't know enough to separate the truth from the old wives
tales regarding what Auto fuel can do to fuel system components
such as gaskets and seals in the carb. So I play it safe. That is why
I switch before landing. My carburetor experiences about 3 hours a
week of auto fuel, and all the time spent sitting on the ground is with
Avgas in all parts of the fuel system downstream of the fuel valve.<<
From day one of using auto gas in my airplanes I never worried about
that. I figured that FAA's approval showed it had passed that just
fine. I remember one time when I did have a composite carb float
sink on my C172. I had been using auto gas for some time. That
same week, the local club C172 had the same thing happen. It had
always had avgas in it. I've been using auto gas in my airplanes
since 1986. So far, it's been goodness. Any problems I've had with
the engine has been attributed to something else.
BTW, you'll find that most of the wives tales about auto gas come
from those who sell avgas. They lose money when we buy auto gas.
Think about that. Then, if they can get others to help fan the fires by
spreading that around, all the better for them. In jest, our local FBO
manager is constantly claiming I'm going to crash and burn one day
because I run that old car gas in my airplane. He also admits he'd be
doing the same thing if he had an airplane. :-) My IA has been a
strong supporter of my use of auto gas.
>>3) I am alarmed at the amount of WATER in auto fuel. When I first
started using it, I would regularly sump out a marble sized ball of
water out of the Auto fuel tank and get nothing out of the wing that
had been filled with avgas. I've since purchased one of those
"super funnels" that has a hydrophobic filter that actually doesn't
pass water. It works well, I regularly have to stop fueling to clean the
filter element. I'm not getting water in the sump now so it seems to be
working. As a note, I've experienced water in the fuel at several
stations in my area.<<
Keep looking until you find one that doesn't. I buy gas from several
stations; but, I favor the one around the corner just because it's a
Shell station and is convenient. All are high volume self serve
stations. I never find water in either tank unless I've accidentally let it
get in there when some was around the caps. I usually blow around
them when I know they're wet; but, I sometimes let some in. If you're
having that much problem with water in the gas around your area,
you must also be getting it in your autos. Maybe you should consider
putting some additive in your auto tanks to get the water out of them.
>>4) I did my annual last month. The AI who assisted (I didn't build
my plane) was impressed with how clean the plugs were. I can only
assume that the auto fuel and the fact that I lean aggressively on the
ground were factors.<<
It's mostly the auto fuel that gets the credit. Another thing. The 80
octane avfuel has a lot less lead than 100LL. In fact, I think I
remember it's being about 25% the lead content of 100LL. With that,
you won't see much lead on the plugs.
At our FBO, 100LL is $2.66 per gallon. I'm currently paying about
$1.40 per gallon for 87 octane Shell. That's about $10 per hour
savings. As much as some of you fly, like Don's three hours per
week, that can add up to a substantial savings. In fact, that savings
goes a long way toward paying for other things like insurance. I've
saved more than enough over the years to pay for an overhaul; but, I
like to say my insurance is free each year. :-)
I hope that helps.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Paint Job Photo's |
I think I see a nominee for Van's calendar! That is a gorgeous paint job!
I may do something similar! Please let us know when you have pictures of
your plane fully assembled with the new paint! Consider putting a large
format picture up on your web site. I would like to use it as wallpaper.
Give me some inspiration in building my RV-4.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: RobHickman(at)AOL.COM [mailto:RobHickman(at)AOL.COM]
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 3:02 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Paint Job Photo's
Warning!
This is what happens when you let your wife and a Graphic
Artist modify your
paint scheme. I had a nice conservative blue on the top
white on the bottom
and a checked tail.
Randall said do not do anything swoopy, oops
http://hometown.aol.com/robhickman/index.html
I will update the web page every day so that you can see the
progress.
-Rob Hickman
RV-4 ~100HRS Down for Paint
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Head Temp |
Ive flown with both installed at the same time. the sparkplug thermocouples ran
85 degrees hotter.
Tom
RV3 1700+ hours
Northern California
Donald Mei wrote:
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I have an RV-4 with an 0-320. The CHT consistently runs about 350 to 400
> degrees. Nothing to be alarmed over, but it seems it could be cooler. I
> have a single sparkplug gasket thermocouple on the #3 cyl. I recently read
> that sparkplug gasket thermocouples tend to indicate 75 deg or so higher
> than probes located in threaded bosses. Have any of you heard of this, or
> better yet, have experience with both types of probes.
>
> Best regards,
> Don Mei
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Hobenshield <edhob(at)kermode.net> |
>
>
>5) There has been a lot of discussion about the applicability of auto fuel
>in higher compression engines. (200 hp IO360, 160hp 0320) The reality is
>that any decent engine shop with a properly instrumented dyno can determine
>the octane requirements of an engine.
>Don Mei
>RV-4 N92CT
>
>Intresting Don, We have been using a mix off 60% 100LL & 40% auto in
>the 160 HP 320 & 300 HP 185 Cessna. The 185 was sold at 1800 Hrs TT
>and only had one cyl requiring minor work at 1500 Hrs. 0-320 to be
>checked this spring at 500 hrs and may need 1 cyl worked as while
>cold it has less compression felt on the blades but is even once up
>to temp.
We routed the fuel in a return system on the 6 to avoid vapor lock.
Neither aircraft displayed measured problems by the temps or vapor
lock yet.
Luck? Hell if it screws up determine it on the ground!
Maybe some-one else does the same?
Ed Hobenshield
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Allignment of wings |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Allignment of wings
Thread-Index: AcBgrpeyfhHnIG8tTe2l3n9yMX8/nAAEGNVT
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Preheaters |
Hi Don,
In regard to your question about engine heaters I had two Hot Pads in my
Mooney and both of them burned out in about 3yrs each. I bought a SYMTEC
engine heater from AC Spruce for $150.00 and am going on my 4th year. The
heater in mounted on an aluminum plate and if you get oil under it won't burn
out like the others. I am very happy with mine and will not buy any other
kind.
Hope this helps.
Bob
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
| Subject: | Re: compass magnetic interference |
Jerry,
I didn't build my -6 but the builder claimed he had similar problems when
the compass was installed in the location you mentioned. It is still on the
panel but now directly underneath the canopy release T-handle and works fine.
Before moving your compass to a different location, I'd try to demagnetize
the entire cockpit if you can get a hold of a demagnetizer to see if that
helps. Also, there are two screws on the compass which will help you
minimize errors by position your a/c on the cardinal headings and take out
1/2 of the error at a time.
Anh
N985VU
-6
Maryland
>
>The intruments, switches, cables, etc., are test mounted in the panel to
>check all the clearances. Everything fits great and the tip-up frame clears
>everything. Time to do a little hanger flying complete with noises! My
>fuselage faces due North and a quick check of the compass says we are
>heading West! The EGC Turn Coordinator is swinging the compass! The
>compass is mounted about 3 inches from the TC. I can remove the TC and the
>compass settles back to the North.
>
>I can switch the compass with another 2 1/4" instrument and try to find a
>sweet spot, but I have the compass right where I want it. Any ideas on how
>to leave it where it is and make it work????
>
>Jerry Calvert
>Edmond Ok
>-6 fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Filling Mis-Drilled Holes |
I tried the archives and can't get it to work for some reason, so here is a
question. Has anyone had success in filling mis-drilled holes (3/32") in
skins with something other than a rivet? For instance J-B Weld , Bondo or
Super Fill? I know that when I worked in a paint and body shop, some fender
dents required drilling holes, using a screw in puller to pull the dent out
and then filling the holes with Bondo. The skins I'm referrring to are the
Turtle deck skins so are very visible.
Thanks for helping out a new learner and imperfect soul.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage - skinning turtle deck)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "elizabeth lincoln" <curby1(at)shianet.org> |
Don where did you get your funnel
Andy
----- Original Message -----
From: Donald Mei <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 5:07 PM
Subject: RV-List: Auto fuel
>
> I have been listening to the discussion on the use of auto fuel and have a
> couple of things to add. No real conclusions, just information.
>
> 1)I have an 0-320 in my RV-4 - 150Hp and have been playing around with
auto
> fuel for the last 5 months. I keep 80 octane in the left wing and 93
octane
> in the right wing. I am very careful to takeoff and land on the aviation
> fuel. (maybe its unnecessary but I'll err on the conservative side) I've
> never noticed any difference in how the engine ran while on the auto fuel.
> Same CHT, egt.
>
> 2) I don't know enough to separate the truth from the old wives tales
> regarding what Auto fuel can do to fuel system components such as gaskets
> and seals in the carb. So I play it safe. That is why I switch before
> landing. My carburetor experiences about 3 hours a week of auto fuel, and
> all the time spent sitting on the ground is with Avgas in all parts of the
> fuel system downstream of the fuel valve.
>
> 3) I am alarmed at the amount of WATER in auto fuel. When I first started
> using it, I would regularly sump out a marble sized ball of water out of
the
> Auto fuel tank and get nothing out of the wing that had been filled with
> avgas. I've since purchased one of those "super funnels" that has a
> hydrophobic filter that actually doesn't pass water. It works well, I
> regularly have to stop fueling to clean the filter element. I'm not
getting
> water in the sump now so it seems to be working. As a note, I've
> experienced water in the fuel at several stations in my area.
>
> 4) I did my annual last month. The AI who assisted (I didn't build my
> plane) was impressed with how clean the plugs were. I can only assume
that
> the auto fuel and the fact that I lean aggressively on the ground were
> factors.
>
> 5) There has been a lot of discussion about the applicability of auto fuel
> in higher compression engines. (200 hp IO360, 160hp 0320) The reality is
> that any decent engine shop with a properly instrumented dyno can
determine
> the octane requirements of an engine. If the need arose someone like
> Mattituck could determine if an IO-360 could run on unleaded 93 in short
> order. Just set up the instrumentation, run the engine under varying
loads
> and temperatures and look for the signs of knock and/or pre-ignition. If
> you can run it hard and hot on 93 octane and it doesn't show problems then
> you move forward, which I would think would be instrumented testing in an
> airframe. There has been a lot of conjecture like "well an 0-320 with
high
> compression pistons can't use auto fuel" I don't think anyone really
knows
> that. Its just that until we know that IT CAN use auto fuel, it isn't
> prudent to try.
>
> Just my 2 cents.
>
> Don Mei
> RV-4 N92CT
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Do we prime Platenuts? |
I tried to search for this in the archives, but it seem to be down right
now.
Does anyone prime the platenuts? They seem to be treated with something
already since they have a dark color to them - almost like bluing on a gun's
barrel.
Are
RV-8 Wings
C-GQRV (Reserverd)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: marhyde/veriprime compatiblity |
>
>Hi Folks,
>I'm a "Newbie" here and learning as I go. What is "Marhyde"? Obviously an
>aerosol primer but who makes it. Where can I buy it? I just tried using
>Tempo zinc chromate and had an absolute mess.
>Dennis Thomas
>RV-9A Emp
>
Mar-hyde Self-Etching Primer can be bought at many auto body supply
places. It comes in spray bombs, and quart and gallon cans. It is
used by many builders because it is easy to use, and has a nice grey
colour. It is probably not the best choice if you are really worried
about corrosion, but it might be an acceptable choice in many parts
of the country.
It is made by the Bondo Mar-hyde company.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Ervin <bjervin(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ACK vs. Ameri-King ELT |
Don't know about their ELTs, but I had nothing but problems with
Amri-King's Encoder, I sent it back 4 times and continued to get the
same problem and the same excuse (it must be something you or your tech
are doing). And the person I talked to couldn't even speak good english.
I'm not impressed.
Bill
RV-6 Fuse
Doug Weiler wrote:
>
>
> >
> > I'm getting ready to order an ELT from Van's. I like the weight savings of
> > the ACK E-01 compared to the Ameri-King AK-450 (about a pound?) but it
> > costs $30 more. Are there any other features besides weight and price that
> I
> > should consider?
>
> I purchased the ACK for both my Citabria and RV. I had heard comments about
> poor customer service from Ameri-King. I don't know how true those comments
> were, but I am happy with the quality and simplicity of the ACK unit.
>
> Doug Weiler
> Mn Wing
>
> ================
> Doug Weiler
> Hudson, WI
> 715-386-1239
> dougweil(at)pressenter.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: ACK vs. Ameri-King ELT |
In a message dated 12/07/2000 11:38:13 PM Eastern Standard Time,
bjervin(at)home.com writes:
> Don't know about their ELTs, but I had nothing but problems with
> Amri-King's Encoder, I sent it back 4 times and continued to get the
> same problem and the same excuse (it must be something you or your tech
> are doing). And the person I talked to couldn't even speak good english.
> I'm not impressed.
>
I will second this experience, but in my case it was the ELT. The engineer
in charge is almost incomprehensible. The secretary is a nice empathetic
lady who seems to know how to get him to snap-to. Caution advised.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP
Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Do we prime Platenuts? |
here's a message I saved a while ago on that subjetc
Gert
VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV
Listers,
I've purchased the "dimpled" nut plates from both Wicks and Skybolt.
You can
order nut plates with the dimpled rivet holes by simply adding the
letter K
to the suffix of the nut plate number. Using the current (not Van's
outdated
K-100 or what ever) designation of
MS21047-xx This is a standard 2 lug nutplate. The suffix (xx)
denotes the
screw size
To order this nutplate with dimpled rivet holes, order it as follows
MS21047-xxK
You say you want the screw hole dimpled as well? Order
MS21049-xxK
You can find all sorts of nut plate styles in AC43.13-1b in Chapter 7
AIRCRAFT HARDWARE on page 7-65 through 7-67 Check out this entire
chapter.
It will be an education. That IS part of why we are allowed to build our
own
aircraft. You can download AC43.13-1b here:
http://www.moneypit.net/~pratt/ac43/
Don't leave home without it!!
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 Dang! After using all those little rivets, these pieces of
aluminium
actually resemble wings!!! :-)
Boca Raton, Fl.
Are Barstad wrote:
>
>
> I tried to search for this in the archives, but it seem to be down right
> now.
>
> Does anyone prime the platenuts? They seem to be treated with something
> already since they have a dark color to them - almost like bluing on a gun's
> barrel.
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
> C-GQRV (Reserverd)
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Do we prime Platenuts? |
In a message dated 12/7/00 8:09:25 PM Pacific Standard Time,
abarstad(at)bconnex.net writes:
<< Does anyone prime the platenuts?>>
Unnecessary.
<>
They are heat treated and coated with molydisulfide dry film lubricant.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ACK vs. Ameri-King ELT |
In a message dated 12/7/00 2:15:47 PM Pacific Standard Time,
KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< Both the extinguisher and ELT will fit between the center two floor rails
>>
Kyle: Where did you put the ELT antenna?
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | 12V power sources |
Glenn sent me one of these units and I now find I don't need it. It turns
out that I had an old AT computer case with a new 200 watt power supply
unit. I took it out and now have a great source of filtered 12 volt power.
If you would like the unit Glenn sent me, email me off list.
Ross
N9PT
> > I have (5) 12V power sources available to RV builders.
> >
> > They are 120VAC in, 12V VDC out, Max 4 Amps. They are referred to as
> > switching power supplies, and provide a very reliable source (I measured
> > one at 11.9VDC). I won't tell you you what you can or can't use them
> > for, but I used mine for powering avionics, testing circuts and electric
> > gyros during the construction phase of my panel. Whatever you do with
> > them, it is at your own risk. They need power cords soldered onto
> > them. They sell for about $70.00 each, but I will give them away for
> > free under the stipulation that they remain the property of the users of
> > this list, and that you mail them to another builder from the list when
> > you are finished with them. Please don't ask for one until you are
> > really in need of it, other builders need them too.
> >
> > Please e-mail me directly if you're interested. First come basis.
> >
> > -Glenn Gordon
> > RV-6 (fiberglass fairings & stuff)
> > Losing building motivation as my garage gets colder and colder.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roberto Giusti" <roby(at)mail.com> |
Thinking of Laird's encounter,
Maybe those of us with sliding canopies could get some extra protection
by installing thicker windshields.
Airliners have VERY thick and heavy windshields, but they are certified
at 300 - 350 Kts
I immagine that a small and curved piece of plexiglass such as the RV8
Windshield could be made bird resistantat at 150Kts.
I wonder what the weight penalty would be?
Does anyone know how to calculate this?
Does anyone know of a source for these?
Maybe Vans coul find a solution.
Roberto Giusti
RV8 QB in Italy
priming elevators
roby(at)mail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcel Bourgon" <mbourgon(at)elp.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Do we prime Platenuts? |
Greetings From El Paso
Building 9a. Plate nuts are steel and must be primed.
Marcel
----- Original Message -----
From: Are Barstad <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 9:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: Do we prime Platenuts?
>
> I tried to search for this in the archives, but it seem to be down right
> now.
>
> Does anyone prime the platenuts? They seem to be treated with something
> already since they have a dark color to them - almost like bluing on a
gun's
> barrel.
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
> C-GQRV (Reserverd)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: marhyde/veriprime compatiblity |
Question on these self etching primers.
On all these self etching primers mentioned, if you just finish the job by
putting a single coat of paint on afterwards - even rustoleum grey spray
paint - then you should be able to complete the job (probably pretty well)
of adequate rust protection?
>From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: marhyde/veriprime compatiblity
>Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 23:33:36 -0500
>
>
> >
> >Hi Folks,
> >I'm a "Newbie" here and learning as I go. What is "Marhyde"? Obviously
>an
> >aerosol primer but who makes it. Where can I buy it? I just tried using
> >Tempo zinc chromate and had an absolute mess.
> >Dennis Thomas
> >RV-9A Emp
> >
>
>Mar-hyde Self-Etching Primer can be bought at many auto body supply
>places. It comes in spray bombs, and quart and gallon cans. It is
>used by many builders because it is easy to use, and has a nice grey
>colour. It is probably not the best choice if you are really worried
>about corrosion, but it might be an acceptable choice in many parts
>of the country.
>
>It is made by the Bondo Mar-hyde company.
>
>--
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
>Ottawa, Canada
>http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> |
| Subject: | Infinity Grips/Facet fuel pump |
Hey Scott, Sorry I missed the engine handing party. I'm going on business to
the east coast today.
Plan on coming to the Jupiter RV fly in See you there ??
Doug Gardner
-----Original Message-----
From: ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM [mailto:ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM]
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2000 8:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Infinity Grips/Facet fuel pump
doug
do you have a meter to check to see what amps you are acually drawing? it is
possible that the fuel pump could be bad drawing too many amps or, the
breaker my be weak. either way, check your amp draw that will tell you the
answer to both pobable causes.
scott
tampa
rv6a engine hung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Begnaud" <Shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com> |
I'm planning for the leading edge wing light in my -9. A hole has to be cut
in the wing leading edge and I'm assuming that this is done with a nibbler.
I would greatly appreciate hearing from someone who has done this. Exactly
which tool should I purchase for this job?
Thanks,
Cliff
RV9A (N782PC -reserved)
Empennage, wing arrives near christmas
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Allignment of wings |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Allignment of wings
Thread-Index: AcBgrpeyfhHnIG8tTe2l3n9yMX8/nAAEGNVT
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
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DQo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | clearance recorderon a budget? |
http://www.compgeeks.com/details.asp?invtid=PDR2-480D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
I suppose to calculate the weight of a thicker windshield (WS) one could use
the thickness of the heavier as a factor. That is, if Van's WS is 0.250
inches and it is replaced with one that is 0.750, it would be three times as
heavy. Cee Bailey's or other window companies might give a $ estimate. I
suggest Bailey as they do them by hand.
One thing I haven't seen on this topic is anything to do with BALLISTICS.
As I recall the weight of the projectile is multiplied by the **SQUARE** of
the velocity. So, hitting the bird at 120 kts vs 60 kts is four times the
impact.
Somewhere I have Hatcher's Notebook (about guns and projectiles etc) if I
need to look it up to be sure but surely there is a ballistics expert on our
list?
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
Waiting for the fog.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Do we prime Platenuts? |
Are,
I prime them with a light coat of cold galvanize paint. It may be way
overkill but there is the possibility of dissimilar metal corrosion in a
high humidity environment and it only takes a couple of minutes to do the
whole bunch. I put them on a sheet of cardboard and spray them on both
sides.
Bob
RV8#423 Fuselage kit arrives today!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Are Barstad
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 11:07 PM
Subject: RV-List: Do we prime Platenuts?
I tried to search for this in the archives, but it seem to be down right
now.
Does anyone prime the platenuts? They seem to be treated with something
already since they have a dark color to them - almost like bluing on a gun's
barrel.
Are
RV-8 Wings
C-GQRV (Reserverd)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting large holes in aluminum -- was: Nibbler |
Cliff asked how to cut hole in leading edge for landing light.
I used a drill and die grinder. Draw a picture of the hole on the skin.
Drill with unibit or whatever to get a hole twice the size of the die
grinder burr. I have a steel cutter that zips thru aluminum. Go slow! You
could use a nibbler but I think they are slow - you could buy a power
nibbler! Or one of those new Roto-Zip tools.
Don't forget to put a **continuous** 'ring' around the hole.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Jim wrote:
Maybe you should consider putting some additive in your auto tanks to get
the water out of them.
Autos take the fuel from the very bottom of the tank, just like airplanes.
What little remains is soon scattered thruout the tank unless you drive like
an old woman.
Use an additive if you have enough water to affect running though.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 12/8/00 7:41:40 AM Central Standard Time,
Shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com writes:
<< I'm planning for the leading edge wing light in my -9. A hole has to be cut
in the wing leading edge and I'm assuming that this is done with a nibbler.
I would greatly appreciate hearing from someone who has done this. Exactly
which tool should I purchase for this job?
Thanks,
Cliff >>
Hi Cliff,
If you go to my web site: http://fly.to/ericsrv
I have a section on installing the lights. Look under "Wings" and then
click "landing lights". I used a cutoff wheel in a die grinder. It takes
lots a courage and a well braced steady hand with lots passes (4 or 5). It
really wasn't that hard and it turned out nice. Just finish off the hole
with a fine file and some emory cloth. Mine is a 6A but should be about the
same as yours for this part.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David and Betty Burton" <dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting large holes in aluminum -- was: Nibbler |
Sam Buchanon has some info on doing this with a Dremmel tool (mini die
grinder, light weight and cheap) on his excellent website. Using a nibbler
may cause more distortion to the skin then would be acceptable.
http//home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/
Hal,
What did you mean about a continuous ring?? A doubler or joggle?
Dave
RV6a, wings
Seattle area
----- Original Message -----
From: kempthornes <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2000 6:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cutting large holes in aluminum -- was: Nibbler
>
> Cliff asked how to cut hole in leading edge for landing light.
>
> I used a drill and die grinder. Draw a picture of the hole on the skin.
> Drill with unibit or whatever to get a hole twice the size of the die
> grinder burr. I have a steel cutter that zips thru aluminum. Go slow!
You
> could use a nibbler but I think they are slow - you could buy a power
> nibbler! Or one of those new Roto-Zip tools.
>
> Don't forget to put a **continuous** 'ring' around the hole.
>
> hal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
I used a die grinder with a cut off wheel. Simple cut. Very simple
actually.....I love that cut off wheel.....I could shave with that thing if
I brace my hand on my chin. :-)
Bill
-4 wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cliff Begnaud" <Shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com>
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2000 8:41 AM
Subject: RV-List: Nibbler
>
> I'm planning for the leading edge wing light in my -9. A hole has to be
cut
> in the wing leading edge and I'm assuming that this is done with a
nibbler.
> I would greatly appreciate hearing from someone who has done this. Exactly
> which tool should I purchase for this job?
> Thanks,
> Cliff
> RV9A (N782PC -reserved)
> Empennage, wing arrives near christmas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: 12V power sources |
OK, who is going to field electrical questions now that Bob has dropped off?
I used an old cell phone cigarette lighter adapter to power up a used T&B I
bought to see if the gyro would run and it worked fine, I was thinking about
using the other old cell phone house current adapter to see if it would work
in the shop to power up instruments. Anyone tried this or have any thoughts?
Kevin Shannon
-9A just rolled over canoe
electrically challenged
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 12/8/00 7:41:40 AM Central Standard Time,
Shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com writes:
<< I'm planning for the leading edge wing light in my -9. A hole has to be cut
in the wing leading edge and I'm assuming that this is done with a nibbler.
I would greatly appreciate hearing from someone who has done this. Exactly
which tool should I purchase for this job?
Thanks,
Cliff >>
Hi Cliff,
Check out my landing light install section on my web site:
http://fly.to/ericsrv
Scroll down to "WingsW then click on "Landing Lights"
I used a cutoff wheel and die grinder. Works great!
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage - skinning turtledeck)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting large holes in aluminum -- was: Nibbler |
In a message dated 12/8/00 6:22:57 AM Pacific Standard Time,
kempthornes(at)home.com writes:
> Cliff asked how to cut hole in leading edge for landing light.
>
FWIW Being an old carpenter I use my old plastic laminate trimmer with bits
that have the ball bearing end to ride along the template beneath them. Works
great. Planning on using it to do panel cutting
Kevin Shannon
-9A canoe rolled over
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nibbler/landing lights |
Cliff Begnaud wrote:
>
>
> I'm planning for the leading edge wing light in my -9. A hole has to be cut
> in the wing leading edge and I'm assuming that this is done with a nibbler.
> I would greatly appreciate hearing from someone who has done this. Exactly
> which tool should I purchase for this job?
> Thanks,
> Cliff
> RV9A (N782PC -reserved)
> Empennage, wing arrives near christmas
A Dremel tool with cutoff wheel makes a very nice cut and is easy to
control if you hold off on the coffee and take your time. Here are
photos of the Duckworth installation in my RV-6:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/wing_lg3.html
You will use the Dremel many, many more times in the project. Be sure
Santa brings you one!
Good luck,
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 210 hrs)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
--- Cliff Begnaud wrote:
>
>
> I'm planning for the leading edge wing light in my -9. A hole has to
> be cut
> in the wing leading edge and I'm assuming that this is done with a
> nibbler.
> I would greatly appreciate hearing from someone who has done this.
> Exactly
> which tool should I purchase for this job?
Standard sheet metal cutters worked for me.
Drill corners holes. Drill center hole large enough to start cutting.
Hack away!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry <bpote(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Do we prime Platenuts? |
i SURE DO. Plate nuts are bare steel. They ca n rust on their own. But
2ndly they are a'dissimilar' metal from aluminum. Electrolysis can set
up. So I prime them. get a plastic fruit juice container. Put acetone
or some cleaning fluid in it. DO ALL THE SAME SIZE PLATE NUTS AT ONE
TIME. Shake it around. Dump them out and assist the air dry with a hair
drier. Lay them out. Paint one side at a time. Good luck.
Barry
Are Barstad wrote:
>
>
> I tried to search for this in the archives, but it seem to be down right
> now.
>
> Does anyone prime the platenuts? They seem to be treated with something
> already since they have a dark color to them - almost like bluing on a gun's
> barrel.
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
> C-GQRV (Reserverd)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Decker <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ACK vs. Ameri-King ELT |
I purchased the Ameri-King (its just about square in shape) and was
disappointed with its antenna. It's simply a long, metal whip
the company insists be hung out in the breeze. I have't figured out
a way to mount this antenna under the canopy of my -8 so will
probably have to spend $70 or so buying a rubber duckie. ACK would
be my choice if I had it to do over.
Matt RV8 Finishing
> > I'm getting ready to order an ELT from Van's. I like the weight
> > savings of
> > the ACK E-01 compared to the Ameri-King AK-450 (about a pound?) but
> > it
> > costs $30 more. Are there any other features besides weight and
> > price that I
> > should consider?
> >
> > Chris Heitman
> > Dousman WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry <bpote(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: marhyde/veriprime compatiblity |
painting platenuts: I sprayed with MAR HYDE and then rustoleum. Later
when I sprayed an assembled unit with the same primer, The rustoleum
shriveled. For what it's worth.
Barry rv9a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
> I'm planning for the leading edge wing light in my -9. A hole has to be
cut
> in the wing leading edge and I'm assuming that this is done with a
nibbler.
> I would greatly appreciate hearing from someone who has done this. Exactly
> which tool should I purchase for this job?
> Thanks,
> Cliff
> RV9A (N782PC -reserved)
> Empennage, wing arrives near christmas
Cliff,
A pneumatic nibbler would work great for this. Just make sure you make your
initial cut 1/8" or so away from the real edge. Then you can use files or
Scotchbrite wheels to get a clean line. The nibbler cuts quite clean but can
be tough to keep a straight line. Staying away from the edge will leave you
some room for error. Of course practice cuts in some scrap will tell you how
close you can come.
Many builders use a combination of cutting wheels on die grinders or Dremel
cutting wheels also. I didn't have acces to a nibbler and used the wheel
approach with mine... worked fine.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, painting etc.
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting large holes in aluminum -- was: Nibbler |
>
> Cliff asked how to cut hole in leading edge for landing light.
Or one of those new Roto-Zip tools.
I bought another manufacturer's version of the Roto-Zip specifically to cut
the landing light openings. Bad move. It was way too course, and it was
completely a matter of luck that I didn't destroy the leading edge. I ended
up cleaning up the mess and finishing the holes with a cutting disk in my
Dremmel tool.
Terry
RV-8A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: marhyde/veriprime compatiblity |
I've used both Veriprime (on empenage and wing ribs) and Marhyde (the rest of
the structure).
I really like the convience of Marhyde. When I need to prime something I just
grab the can, shake and spray and in about 5 to 10 minutes I can be working
with that part. The best thing is there is no cleanup.
It will seem that Marhyde is very expensive ($12-$13 for a 18oz can) but if
you start checking the price of other primer and their activator I think
Marhyde is a good buy.
Its also quite durable. I usually just go over the piece lightly with Scotch
Btite pad and then clean with Naptha.
I have a heated hanger I work in so am not sure about applying in the cold.
The other primer's on the market I all pretty good. I like Variprime, just
didn't like the cleanup.
John Danielson
Engine installation and finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent S. Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
Original..
I'm planning for the leading edge wing light in my -9. A hole has to be cut
in the wing leading edge and I'm assuming that this is done with a nibbler.
I would greatly appreciate hearing from someone who has done this. Exactly
which tool should I purchase for this job?
Reply:
I marked the leading edge. I drilled some holes @ 1/8 '' from the marks. I
used a hand nibbler I bought years ago from Radio Shack to get close. Then
I used a combination of files, dremel tool, sandpaper, scotch pad to get to
the final opening.
I went slow and easy as I was doing it for the first time. I didn't cut
right at the marks as didn't want any stress distortion marks around the cut
out. Kind of long, drawn out and slow, but sure looks nice when you are
done.
Vince Himsl
RV8 Fuselage
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent S. Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Do we prime Platenuts? |
Hello,
I soak them in Coleman fuel (fire hazard I know), let dry and then spray. A
real pain so If I don't have too, I would really like to know!
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 Fuselage
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy Lervold <randy@rv-8.com>
Date: Friday, December 08, 2000 11:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Nibbler
>
>> I'm planning for the leading edge wing light in my -9. A hole has to be
>cut
>> in the wing leading edge and I'm assuming that this is done with a
>nibbler.
>> I would greatly appreciate hearing from someone who has done this.
Exactly
>> which tool should I purchase for this job?
>> Thanks,
>> Cliff
>> RV9A (N782PC -reserved)
>> Empennage, wing arrives near christmas
>
>
>Cliff,
>
>A pneumatic nibbler would work great for this. >
>Randy Lervold
>RV-8, #80500, painting etc.
>www.rv-8.com
>Home Wing VAF
>
Second opinion: The pneumatic nibbler will not work great. I have used my
Harbor Freight The pneumatic nibbler for many tasks but the leading edge cut
out was not one of them. The foot on the nibbler accepts a 0.065 thick
work. The leading edge curvature will cause the work to bind in the foot's
slot and you will not be able to nibble on the curvature.
Dennis Persyk N600DP 22 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Do we prime Platenuts? |
Vincent wrote:
> I soak them in Coleman fuel (fire hazard I know), let dry and then spray.
Used to be Coleman fuel had some oil in it. Soapy water or mineral spirits
would be better.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 12V power sources |
Kevin thought of
> using the other old cell phone house current adapter to see if it would
work
> in the shop to power up instruments. Anyone tried this or have any
thoughts?
A bold experiment! Let us know if it fries any of your instruments! If
you need a source of 12 volts for testing etc, go to the airport and get two
junk batteries. Charge them up - one will probably be okay. Nice clean
12v with no AC components.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
Signed off! Waiting on the fog.
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 12/8/00 5:41:29 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com writes:
<< Exactly which tool should I purchase for this job? >>
My Uni-Bit drill, Dremel cutoff wheel and a file worked great for my when I
installed my duckworks lights.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting large holes in aluminum -- was: Nibbler |
> What did you mean about a continuous ring?? A doubler or joggle?
A ring doubler might be the right name. My UAL sheet metal guru says it
should be continous - cut from a sheet in one piece. He allowed it might be
joined between corners but never at the corner. If joined, there should be
a piece over the joint.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | don't alodine/BASF epoxy primer/only alodine! |
I have a piece of info and 2 questions.
The info is that a BASF field rep just called me back (I called an auto
supply paint store and they forwarded my question on to the field rep) and
recommended that I use their BASF Diamont line zinc epoxy primer # 589 in an
adhesion promoter formula (very thin coat). He said NOT to apply any kind
of aluminum preparation stuff such as alumiprep or alodine. He said only to
use their 900 pre-cleaner which just removed grease, wax, etc. The epoxy
worked better without the other treatments and would be more than adequate
to create the barrier we want.
Question 1 is has anyone heard of this and if so are you doing it this way?
Question 2 is that Alodine is advertised to be a corrosion proofing agent
which acts as a "firm barrier against the elements and continued corrosion".
The various web resources and the 18 Years of the RVaitor don't say that
and don't recommend stopping with just the application of the alodine. What
gives? Why not just alodine and call it a day? What's not being said that
I'm obviously missing? :-)
TIA,
lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine making metal |
Bill,
You said: > The lifters were odd-lot units from
> the parts drawer at the overhauler's shop... perhaps a troubling sign in
> retrospect. Polishing and cleaning these lifters and assembling them
I have no aircraft engine overhaul experience but have done many auto
engines, mostly high performance sports cars. I was taught to be very
careful to keep lifters in order so that they continue to run on the same
cam lobes as otherwise lifters and lobes would wear excessively.
Can you remove the lifters for inspection without splitting the case?
I think I would be anxious to get that metal out of the engine before it
eats up other parts.
Screen? Do you have a filter too?
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Phillips" <mphill(at)fgi.net> |
Cliff,I used the nibbler,keeping away from the line about a quarter inch,to
keep distortion down. Then I came back with the dremel tool with the
cutting disc and went down the line. With the biggest majority of the metal
cut away with the nibbler ,it was easy to get the dremel tool to cut 90
degrees with the leading edge. Mine came out perfect.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2000 11:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Nibbler
>
> > I'm planning for the leading edge wing light in my -9. A hole has to be
> cut
> > in the wing leading edge and I'm assuming that this is done with a
> nibbler.
> > I would greatly appreciate hearing from someone who has done this.
Exactly
> > which tool should I purchase for this job?
> > Thanks,
> > Cliff
> > RV9A (N782PC -reserved)
> > Empennage, wing arrives near christmas
>
>
> Cliff,
>
> A pneumatic nibbler would work great for this. Just make sure you make
your
> initial cut 1/8" or so away from the real edge. Then you can use files or
> Scotchbrite wheels to get a clean line. The nibbler cuts quite clean but
can
> be tough to keep a straight line. Staying away from the edge will leave
you
> some room for error. Of course practice cuts in some scrap will tell you
how
> close you can come.
>
> Many builders use a combination of cutting wheels on die grinders or
Dremel
> cutting wheels also. I didn't have acces to a nibbler and used the wheel
> approach with mine... worked fine.
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, #80500, painting etc.
> www.rv-8.com
> Home Wing VAF
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
OK Paint Guru's, has anybody used any of this UV Smooth Prime that
Spruce sells on the fiberglass S cowl, using a Roller instead of spraying
to cover pin holes in glass.
Thanks in advance Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB- finish stuff
--- Harvey Sigmon
--- flyhars(at)earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Paint Job (Designer) BASF |
My RV-4 paint job was designed and is being painted by:
Corbin May
Final Approach
(866) 383-3800
(503) 474-1551
Corbin designs paint schemes and if you want will also paint it. Corbin is
painting the plane in my shop at work, using BASF Diamont paint. He sanded
the whole plane and then used epoxy self etching primer on the bare metal.
The plane has not had the clear top coat yet.
I will keep updating the web page as he makes progress.
http://hometown.aol.com/robhickman/index.html
-Rob Hickman
N401RH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: UV Smmoth Prime |
> OK Paint Guru's, has anybody used any of this UV Smooth Prime that
> Spruce sells on the fiberglass S cowl, using a Roller instead of spraying
> to cover pin holes in glass.
>
> Thanks in advance Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB- finish stuff
I have some but haven't used it. A local fiberglass wizard swears by it.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
Good luck. My RC Allen has been on back order since early August with no firm
date in site.
Rick McBride
80027
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rlluster" <rlluster(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 fuselage |
Listers
I received my fuselage about 2 weeks ago, and have starting it's
construction. Two items worth mentioning are:
1) In the bag inventory, bag 1942 calls out K1000-08, which are to be
8-32 platenut. They really were 10-32, 155 of them. Be careful to verify
yours, when you get them, as Van's stated, there were approximately 20 bags
that went out with the wrong sizes. An 8-32 bolt/screw will go into a 10-32
platenut, but will be real sloppy.
2) Checked my main landing gear per Van's web site, and my gear is correct.
Check Van's web site for the update on the RV9 landing gear shipment error.
Richard Luster
RV9A, 909RL
wings and fuselage
Marysville, Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
I used a roller on my S cowl and a similar product from the Wicks catalog.
It made a rough mess that is very hard to sand smooth again. There has got
to be a better way.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
-----Original Message-----
OK Paint Guru's, has anybody used any of this UV Smooth Prime that
Spruce sells on the fiberglass S cowl, using a Roller instead of spraying
to cover pin holes in glass.
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Nibbler
Thread-Index: AcBhVxBIW+HhXN2UTKOaWmJ7rpPUbAABK8mw
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
I guess I'll jump on the nibbler thread bandwagon...
One of the handiest air tools I have is a air-powered belt sander. My
dad gave it to me, and I think they're available from Harbor Freight for
about $75 for a cheap Taiwanese version. Dynabrade makes them but they
are much more expensive, around $300. Used it on just about everything.
It has a 3/8" wide belt and is very handy for finishing up edges and
rounding corners, knocking off edges, etc. You can get belts that made
out of scotchbrite pads for final finishing. When I cut out the landing
lights I used a dremel tool with a disc and finished it off with the
belt sander.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 62 hours
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Phillips [mailto:mphill(at)fgi.net]
> Sent: Friday, December 08, 2000 1:29 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Nibbler
>
>
>
> Cliff,I used the nibbler,keeping away from the line about a
> quarter inch,to
> keep distortion down. Then I came back with the dremel
> tool with the
> cutting disc and went down the line. With the biggest
> majority of the metal
> cut away with the nibbler ,it was easy to get the dremel tool
> to cut 90
> degrees with the leading edge. Mine came out perfect.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, December 08, 2000 11:10 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Nibbler
>
>
> >
> > > I'm planning for the leading edge wing light in my -9. A
> hole has to be
> > cut
> > > in the wing leading edge and I'm assuming that this is done with a
> > nibbler.
> > > I would greatly appreciate hearing from someone who has done this.
> Exactly
> > > which tool should I purchase for this job?
> > > Thanks,
> > > Cliff
> > > RV9A (N782PC -reserved)
> > > Empennage, wing arrives near christmas
> >
> >
> > Cliff,
> >
> > A pneumatic nibbler would work great for this. Just make
> sure you make
> your
> > initial cut 1/8" or so away from the real edge. Then you
> can use files or
> > Scotchbrite wheels to get a clean line. The nibbler cuts
> quite clean but
> can
> > be tough to keep a straight line. Staying away from the
> edge will leave
> you
> > some room for error. Of course practice cuts in some scrap
> will tell you
> how
> > close you can come.
> >
> > Many builders use a combination of cutting wheels on die grinders or
> Dremel
> > cutting wheels also. I didn't have acces to a nibbler and
> used the wheel
> > approach with mine... worked fine.
> >
> > Randy Lervold
> > RV-8, #80500, painting etc.
> > www.rv-8.com
> > Home Wing VAF
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: don't alodine/BASF epoxy primer/only alodine! |
Lucky,
I don't know the BASF product so can't answer that. You know I went the
alumiprep/alodine/strontium chromate epoxy primer route.
Alodine needs protection such as a primer so it is not scraped off. Alodine
creates an oxide layer that is thin, hard & brittle. You will break this
layer if not covered quickly with primer.
Rick Caldwell
-6 Melbourne, FL
>From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: don't alodine/BASF epoxy primer/only alodine!
>Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2000 18:25:49
>
>
>I have a piece of info and 2 questions.
>
>The info is that a BASF field rep just called me back (I called an auto
>supply paint store and they forwarded my question on to the field rep) and
>recommended that I use their BASF Diamont line zinc epoxy primer # 589 in
>an
>adhesion promoter formula (very thin coat). He said NOT to apply any kind
>of aluminum preparation stuff such as alumiprep or alodine. He said only
>to
>use their 900 pre-cleaner which just removed grease, wax, etc. The epoxy
>worked better without the other treatments and would be more than adequate
>to create the barrier we want.
>
>Question 1 is has anyone heard of this and if so are you doing it this way?
>
>Question 2 is that Alodine is advertised to be a corrosion proofing agent
>which acts as a "firm barrier against the elements and continued
>corrosion".
> The various web resources and the 18 Years of the RVaitor don't say that
>and don't recommend stopping with just the application of the alodine.
>What
>gives? Why not just alodine and call it a day? What's not being said that
>I'm obviously missing? :-)
>
>TIA,
>lucky
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Builders Risk Insurance |
Since my engine is arriving soon, I wanted to get builders risk insurance.
I checked with a couple of brokers. Again, Van has arranged the best and
cheapest through his Vanguard Program. (Call JT Helms at 877-475-5860) The
cost is $300 for up to $75,000. They give $15/hour labor and no deductible
except for when you are transporting. Then there is a $1,000 deductible.
They cover first flight when the policy rolls over to a flying one. The
other quote from AIG (or is it AGI?) was for $525 with a blanket $250
deducible and no set amount for labor.
Ross Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
I wouldn't ever plan on getting an RC Allen unit. I gave up on them months
and months ago and bought a SigmaTek. I talked with a rep at Century
Instrument which is right next door to RC Allen and he had no idea why their
production is so messed up. ACS told me they have RC Allen units on back
order for well over a year.
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
>
> Good luck. My RC Allen has been on back order since early August with no
firm date in site.
>
> Rick McBride
> 80027
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 12V power sources |
Ross,
In using a multi voltage switching power supply like your "AT" one, you need
to be aware that usually the control loop is closed around the 5 volts and
that a minimum load is required on the 5 volts to maintain regulation.
Without that, the other voltages will be out of regulation also. Some
vendors include the minimum load, but the majority don't as it adds to cost
and reduces efficiency. I used to design these for NCR back in the '80s.
Just check the 5 volt output and see if it is within tolerance. The stuff I
designed was within 0.5% at worst.
Bill Christie, RV8A, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: Ross <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 10:57 PM
Subject: RV-List: 12V power sources
>
> Glenn sent me one of these units and I now find I don't need it. It turns
> out that I had an old AT computer case with a new 200 watt power supply
> unit. I took it out and now have a great source of filtered 12 volt
power.
>
> If you would like the unit Glenn sent me, email me off list.
>
> Ross
> N9PT
>
>
> > > I have (5) 12V power sources available to RV builders.
> > >
> > > They are 120VAC in, 12V VDC out, Max 4 Amps. They are referred to as
> > > switching power supplies, and provide a very reliable source (I
measured
> > > one at 11.9VDC). I won't tell you you what you can or can't use them
> > > for, but I used mine for powering avionics, testing circuts and
electric
> > > gyros during the construction phase of my panel. Whatever you do with
> > > them, it is at your own risk. They need power cords soldered onto
> > > them. They sell for about $70.00 each, but I will give them away for
> > > free under the stipulation that they remain the property of the users
of
> > > this list, and that you mail them to another builder from the list
when
> > > you are finished with them. Please don't ask for one until you are
> > > really in need of it, other builders need them too.
> > >
> > > Please e-mail me directly if you're interested. First come basis.
> > >
> > > -Glenn Gordon
> > > RV-6 (fiberglass fairings & stuff)
> > > Losing building motivation as my garage gets colder and colder.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry <bpote(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 fuselage |
THanks. Let's stay intouch. Barry
rlluster wrote:
>
>
> Listers
>
> I received my fuselage about 2 weeks ago, and have starting it's
> construction. Two items worth mentioning are:
>
> 1) In the bag inventory, bag 1942 calls out K1000-08, which are to be
> 8-32 platenut. They really were 10-32, 155 of them. Be careful to verify
> yours, when you get them, as Van's stated, there were approximately 20 bags
> that went out with the wrong sizes. An 8-32 bolt/screw will go into a 10-32
> platenut, but will be real sloppy.
>
> 2) Checked my main landing gear per Van's web site, and my gear is correct.
> Check Van's web site for the update on the RV9 landing gear shipment error.
>
> Richard Luster
> RV9A, 909RL
> wings and fuselage
> Marysville, Washington
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: ACK vs. Ameri-King ELT |
In a message dated 12/8/00 1:04:25 AM Eastern Standard Time, HCRV6(at)AOL.COM
writes:
> << Both the extinguisher and ELT will fit between the center two floor
> rails
> >>
>
>
> Kyle: Where did you put the ELT antenna?
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, working on canopy installation
>
I ran the cable through the main spar and back to the tail cone mounted
antenna ala Sam Buchanan and others. You could give yourself a shorter cable
run and just put it in the baggage compartment.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: UV Smooth Prime |
In a message dated 12/8/00 4:17:43 PM Eastern Standard Time,
SSoule(at)pfclaw.com writes:
> I used a roller on my S cowl and a similar product from the Wicks catalog.
> It made a rough mess that is very hard to sand smooth again. There has got
> to be a better way.
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, VT
>
Thin it more than recommended and it gives you a smoother mess. I found that
it sands fairly easily if you don't get big lumps caused by, you guessed it,
not thinning enough.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Verticle Stabilizer RV6-A-QB |
List: Just installed my horizontal stabilizer with no problem. Moving on to
the vertical stabilizer I noticed both the fuselage skin and 3\4 in. angle
extend 3 inches beyond where the vertical stab. is to bolt?
It would appear the angle and skin need trimmed but how much? Any
builders have this problem? Does someone have a good picture on their
Website? Tom Cold in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
But if you want an electric AI, what other choice is there?
Larry Bowen
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Doug Weiler
> Sent: Friday, December 08, 2000 4:59 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: R C Allen
>
>
>
> I wouldn't ever plan on getting an RC Allen unit. I gave up on
> them months
> and months ago and bought a SigmaTek. I talked with a rep at Century
> Instrument which is right next door to RC Allen and he had no
> idea why their
> production is so messed up. ACS told me they have RC Allen units on back
> order for well over a year.
>
> Doug Weiler
> MN Wing
>
>
> >
> > Good luck. My RC Allen has been on back order since early
> August with no
> firm date in site.
> >
> > Rick McBride
> > 80027
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Ervin <bjervin(at)home.com> |
Cliff
Why not go the wing tip route? Then you don't have to cut those holes!!
Bill
Cliff Begnaud wrote:
>
>
> I'm planning for the leading edge wing light in my -9. A hole has to be cut
> in the wing leading edge and I'm assuming that this is done with a nibbler.
> I would greatly appreciate hearing from someone who has done this. Exactly
> which tool should I purchase for this job?
> Thanks,
> Cliff
> RV9A (N782PC -reserved)
> Empennage, wing arrives near christmas
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ted Cross <n0iak(at)qsl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 12V power sources |
Kevin,
That's a pretty risky proposition. Not all power adapters are created equal. The
typical "wall wart" power bricks used for many applications all have different
specs. They come in different voltages, some are constant current making the
voltage out variable depending on the load, etc. etc. Also, most power adapters,
even if they're the right voltage usually only sink (read supply) a few tens or
hundreds of milliamps, not enough to power instruments and avionics.
BTW, hi to everyone on the list, I just signed up a few days ago and have
enjoyed reading the traffic. Also signed up for the RV9 list. Order will be
going out for the -9 emp. kit next week.
Ted
Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> OK, who is going to field electrical questions now that Bob has dropped off?
> I used an old cell phone cigarette lighter adapter to power up a used T&B I
> bought to see if the gyro would run and it worked fine, I was thinking about
> using the other old cell phone house current adapter to see if it would work
> in the shop to power up instruments. Anyone tried this or have any thoughts?
> Kevin Shannon
> -9A just rolled over canoe
> electrically challenged
--
Ted Cross (N0IAK & G0HHY)
n0iak(at)qsl.net
ICQ: 16040894
RV9A - Planning Stage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald R. Eaves" <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | ACK vs. Ameri-King ELT |
Well I'm glad to have the opportunity to give Ameri-King Some Bad Press
Because I promised their General manager & Customer Service Rep., I would
badmouth them because of their poor attitude toward Homebuilders who buy
there units, not knowing when they might get to use them. Only to find out
they are out of warranty when they discover they have a LEMMON. AK's
Customer Service General Manager name is Victor,
The AK 350 Encoder I bought 2+- years ago lasted long enough to make it
through the $200 Pitot Static Altimeter / Encoder Certification, then was
discovered to of failed somewhere between that and the 3rd hour of my RV6
test flight program.
The hard to understand individual is a General Manager for Ameri-King, His
Name is name is Victor.
After a lot of haggling, Victor ask me to sent my unit in so they could
determine what was wrong - If anything?
I FedEx'ed it to them after noon CA time, the next day to see what they had
found. Victor immediately told me the repair would cost me $138.??. I then
I again tried to get some relief because I was less than satisfied with the
reliability of the Encoder. After a long argument he told me he would
exchanger my unit for $119. I ask if that included an FAA certification of
the unit and he assured me it was.
I gave him my credit card information and My FedEx account number to ship
the new unit back Next Day.
I got the unit the next day about 1pm via UPS! - Enclosed was an invoice for
$119 + $33 shipping and handling!
The invoice indicated a Ruth filled my order and shipped it.
Did I pay for it with my credit card? Do I owe them $150+-?? Only time or a
phone call will tell. Did they try to ship it FedEx? ??? Did they try to
give UPS my FedEx Account number then decide to ship and bill me for the
shipping because then number was invalid? maybe Ruth or Victor knows.
The unit has shaky documentation for certification.
Does anyone know if they have email or a web site?
I have been unable to locate one.
Unhappy Ameri-King Customer
Don Eaves
Cordova TN
RV6 - 7.2 Hours Test Flight Time...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Ervin
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 10:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: ACK vs. Ameri-King ELT
Don't know about their ELTs, but I had nothing but problems with
Amri-King's Encoder, I sent it back 4 times and continued to get the
same problem and the same excuse (it must be something you or your tech
are doing). And the person I talked to couldn't even speak good english.
I'm not impressed.
Bill
RV-6 Fuse
Doug Weiler wrote:
>
>
> >
> > I'm getting ready to order an ELT from Van's. I like the weight savings
of
> > the ACK E-01 compared to the Ameri-King AK-450 (about a pound?) but it
> > costs $30 more. Are there any other features besides weight and price
that
> I
> > should consider?
>
> I purchased the ACK for both my Citabria and RV. I had heard comments
about
> poor customer service from Ameri-King. I don't know how true those
comments
> were, but I am happy with the quality and simplicity of the ACK unit.
>
> Doug Weiler
> Mn Wing
>
> ================
> Doug Weiler
> Hudson, WI
> 715-386-1239
> dougweil(at)pressenter.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Filling Mis-Drilled Holes |
One way to repair a hole is to countersink both sides of the hole until the
coutersinks meet in the middle of the skin, cut a rivet shank a bit longer
than the skin thickness (throw out the rivet head) and squeeze it flush on
both sides. Then, either cover it with some extra coats of primer or a bit
of filler and it disappears. I've done this a few times and am pleased with
the results and ease of the operation.
Brian Eckstein
6A painting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Ervin <bjervin(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ACK vs. Ameri-King ELT |
I'll add to my original post:
When I sent my first unit back to them (It was still under warranty) Our
buddy Victor Shipped me back a unit that had obviously been used before,
There were scratches and wear marks all over it and no Green,yellow,or
red tag. I sent it back to him after I talked to a FSDO friend of mine.
With a CC. of a letter to the Los Angeles FAA Avionics Manufacture Rep.
It got Victors attention!! He sent me a brand new shiny unit which
worked about 10 hours and failed. I still have it, chalked it up to
experience!!
Sometimes you do get what you pay for, and MORE!!!
Bill
RV-6
Spokane WA
"Donald R. Eaves" wrote:
>
>
> Well I'm glad to have the opportunity to give Ameri-King Some Bad Press
> Because I promised their General manager & Customer Service Rep., I would
> badmouth them because of their poor attitude toward Homebuilders who buy
> there units, not knowing when they might get to use them. Only to find out
> they are out of warranty when they discover they have a LEMMON. AK's
> Customer Service General Manager name is Victor,
>
> The AK 350 Encoder I bought 2+- years ago lasted long enough to make it
> through the $200 Pitot Static Altimeter / Encoder Certification, then was
> discovered to of failed somewhere between that and the 3rd hour of my RV6
> test flight program.
>
> The hard to understand individual is a General Manager for Ameri-King, His
> Name is name is Victor.
>
> After a lot of haggling, Victor ask me to sent my unit in so they could
> determine what was wrong - If anything?
> I FedEx'ed it to them after noon CA time, the next day to see what they had
> found. Victor immediately told me the repair would cost me $138.??. I then
> I again tried to get some relief because I was less than satisfied with the
> reliability of the Encoder. After a long argument he told me he would
> exchanger my unit for $119. I ask if that included an FAA certification of
> the unit and he assured me it was.
>
> I gave him my credit card information and My FedEx account number to ship
> the new unit back Next Day.
>
> I got the unit the next day about 1pm via UPS! - Enclosed was an invoice for
> $119 + $33 shipping and handling!
> The invoice indicated a Ruth filled my order and shipped it.
>
> Did I pay for it with my credit card? Do I owe them $150+-?? Only time or a
> phone call will tell. Did they try to ship it FedEx? ??? Did they try to
> give UPS my FedEx Account number then decide to ship and bill me for the
> shipping because then number was invalid? maybe Ruth or Victor knows.
>
> The unit has shaky documentation for certification.
>
> Does anyone know if they have email or a web site?
> I have been unable to locate one.
>
> Unhappy Ameri-King Customer
> Don Eaves
> Cordova TN
> RV6 - 7.2 Hours Test Flight Time...
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Ervin
> Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 10:36 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: ACK vs. Ameri-King ELT
>
>
> Don't know about their ELTs, but I had nothing but problems with
> Amri-King's Encoder, I sent it back 4 times and continued to get the
> same problem and the same excuse (it must be something you or your tech
> are doing). And the person I talked to couldn't even speak good english.
> I'm not impressed.
>
> Bill
> RV-6 Fuse
>
> Doug Weiler wrote:
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I'm getting ready to order an ELT from Van's. I like the weight savings
> of
> > > the ACK E-01 compared to the Ameri-King AK-450 (about a pound?) but it
> > > costs $30 more. Are there any other features besides weight and price
> that
> > I
> > > should consider?
> >
> > I purchased the ACK for both my Citabria and RV. I had heard comments
> about
> > poor customer service from Ameri-King. I don't know how true those
> comments
> > were, but I am happy with the quality and simplicity of the ACK unit.
> >
> > Doug Weiler
> > Mn Wing
> >
> > ================
> > Doug Weiler
> > Hudson, WI
> > 715-386-1239
> > dougweil(at)pressenter.com
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Builders Risk Insurance |
I'm using VanGuard for builder's risk too ... as well as rental coverage.
I've been happy with JT's service so far.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 gear boxes
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ross Mickey
> Sent: Friday, December 08, 2000 4:47 PM
> To: RV-List
> Subject: RV-List: Builders Risk Insurance
>
>
> Since my engine is arriving soon, I wanted to get builders risk insurance.
> I checked with a couple of brokers. Again, Van has arranged the best and
> cheapest through his Vanguard Program. (Call JT Helms at
> 877-475-5860) The
> cost is $300 for up to $75,000. They give $15/hour labor and no
> deductible
> except for when you are transporting. Then there is a $1,000 deductible.
> They cover first flight when the policy rolls over to a flying one. The
> other quote from AIG (or is it AGI?) was for $525 with a blanket $250
> deducible and no set amount for labor.
>
> Ross Mickey
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stuart B McCurdy <sturdy(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Canopy Bow, Side Rail Alignment |
Listers,
I am building an RV-8 QB. I am about to attach the canopy bow weldment
to the side rail. However, the angle of the weldment is greater than
the matching portion of the rail where it is flat on the inside and has
the upward angle towards the outside. The weldment lays flat on the
inside where the two bolts go in from the side, but there is a gap on
the outside where the five bolts attach downward. Anyone had the same
problem and what did you do to make the weldment lay flat?
Stu McCurdy
RV-3, 74TX
RV-8 QB, Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | Re: ACK vs. Ameri-King ELT |
| From: | "Denis (Bum) Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 12/8/00 9:27, Matt Decker at rmill2000(at)yahoo.com wrote:
>
> I purchased the Ameri-King (its just about square in shape) and was
> disappointed with its antenna. It's simply a long, metal whip
> the company insists be hung out in the breeze. I have't figured out
> a way to mount this antenna under the canopy of my -8 so will
> probably have to spend $70 or so buying a rubber duckie. ACK would
> be my choice if I had it to do over.
>
> Matt RV8 Finishing
>
>
>>> I'm getting ready to order an ELT from Van's. I like the weight
>>> savings of
>>> the ACK E-01 compared to the Ameri-King AK-450 (about a pound?) but
>>> it
>>> costs $30 more. Are there any other features besides weight and
>>> price that I
>>> should consider?
>>>
>>> Chris Heitman
>>> Dousman WI
>
Ditto on the ACK. The thing I like is the antenna, which has a coil in the
midst of it and allows mounting in the bag compartment
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "edperry64" <edperry64(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Heated pitot tube |
Hi,
I know very little about electrical so here is the question....I have Bob's
Book.....
I just bought a new surplus Heated pitot tube, AN5812-1 "L" shaped. The
catch is that it is 24 volts. I hooked it up to my 12 volt 15amp power
supply to see what would happen. The results were 225 degrees were produced
at the tip and it showed 3 amps of current. I left it on for about 10
minutes and it didn't blow the 5 amp CB I put in line.
So the question is, Am I looking for trouble running this in a 12 volt
system or will it only put out a lower amount of heat. It seems like the 225
degrees would be adequate for deicing.
Thank You,
Ed Perry
RV8QB 180/CS Heated Pitot?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Bird strikes |
In a message dated 12/07/2000 8:54:08 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Johnny(at)wiktel.com writes:
<< Wonder if those little ultrasonic whistles you put on the front bumper of
the car to scare deer will work on birds?? >>
Geez, I hope they work differently on an airplane. I've known folks that
never hit a deer but located one after installation of the sonic device. do
not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Storo" <ERSF2b(at)oregoncoast.com> |
| Subject: | VM-1000 terminals |
I have found some of the info needed for the plug-in terminals on the
gold box.
1. Mouser electronics 800 346 6873 is the source.
2. My part numer was 506-2MR-04
3. They make these plugs in several styles, and sizes, i.e. 3
or 4 or 8 'tangs'.
4. I can not find the catalog, or invoice. But the price for the whole
box was somewhere around $10-20. (my excuse is that we are still
unpacking.) When I find the invoice I will post the numbers.
Ed Storo RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | ACK vs Ameri-King ELT |
>I purchased the Ameri-King (its just about square in shape) and was
> disappointed with its antenna. It's simply a long, metal whip
> the company insists be hung out in the breeze. I have't figured out
> a way to mount this antenna under the canopy of my -8 so will
> probably have to spend $70 or so buying a rubber duckie. ACK would
> be my choice if I had it to do over.
>Ditto on the ACK. The thing I like is the antenna, which has a coil in the
>midst of it and allows mounting in the bag compartment
Gentlemen, allow me to weigh in here. I have owned both ELT's on two
different planes and can speak from experience. The ACK antenna, with its
center loading co8il, will last almost no time at all in the elements brefore
its pretty chrome coating begins to flake off at the stress points and the
resulting rust is UGLY. If you mount the antenna under the canopy you might
come out okay.
The AK antenna, a stainless tapered whip, is actually the best thing about
the ELT, the worst thing being that if you ever activate an AK-450 from the
panel, as I did, and find you cannot turn it off again, you will be dealing
with Victor, twice, before getting satisfaction. This may make you afraid to
risk testing the unit ever again, even though you are supposed to. I decided
to leave mine alone and not chance it.
IMO, the best outside installation would be AK's whip antenna and ACK's
reliable ELT. I plan to move my antenna "indoors" if tests show the drag is
significant. This has been hashed out on the list recently and I am
unconvinced that the numbers are as dire as the drag equations suggest. My
AK whip is presently on the turtledeck aft of the canopy. By some
calculations, this is costing me 5 hp and untold speed.
I can almost guarantee you that the substitution of a rubber duck antenna
will violate the TSO for either unit. In that case, you might as well leave
the ELT out altogether and save weight. Well, given the performance of ELT's
in actual crashes, it's almost that bad...
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/FP Sensenich
Hop-Along Airfield - 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Heated pitot tube |
In a message dated 12/08/2000 9:52:23 PM Eastern Standard Time,
edperry64(at)netzero.net writes:
> I just bought a new surplus Heated pitot tube, AN5812-1 "L" shaped. The
> catch is that it is 24 volts. I hooked it up to my 12 volt 15amp power
> supply to see what would happen. The results were 225 degrees were produced
> at the tip and it showed 3 amps of current. I left it on for about 10
> minutes and it didn't blow the 5 amp CB I put in line.
> So the question is, Am I looking for trouble running this in a 12 volt
> system or will it only put out a lower amount of heat. It seems like the
225
> degrees would be adequate for deicing.
Ed: seems to me the pitot is designed for 24v and could not be hurt in any
way by 12 v power.
Given the power relationship P=E
2/R, the pitot heating element would be
expected to generate four times the BTU's, watts, what have you, at 24 volts
as at 12 v., but this would in no way suggest what the temperature might work
out to be at 24v. We just know it will be higher. Much depends on the delta
T between the pitot and ambient, and the nonlinear resistance of the heating
element as it heats up, etc.
225 degrees seems adequate for de-icing, but what will the temp be at an OAT
of many degrees below zero at airspeeds of 200 mph??? Quite a lot of heat
loss from the pitot under those conditions, and a whole new resulting
temperature. No doubt the pitot heat has margin built in, but is it 400%
over-powered for the job? I wonder. Are you willing to build a refrigerated
wind tunnel to find out? How about instrumenting the pitot with a temp
sensor and going flying this winter...
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/FP Sensenich
Hop-Along Airfield - 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Do we prime Platenuts? |
----- Original Message -----
From: "barry" <bpote(at)erols.com>
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2000 11:08 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Do we prime Platenuts?
>
> i SURE DO. Plate nuts are bare steel. They ca n rust on their own. >
Wrong!Plate nuts are not bare steel! They are coated and dont need painting.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine making metal+camshaft care and feeding |
I concur with Hal,
In years past I had occasion to spend many hours in a cam grinding shop
"Shadbolt Cams in Vancouver BC.' During that time I was taught that the
matching wear patterns on cam lobes and cam lifters must be maintained at
all cost when reinstalling used parts sets.
My experience since those days has shown that to be true.
The preferred choice when putting a new or reground cam under used lifters
was and still is, to have the lifters re-surfaced. This of course assumes
that the used lifters will remain in tolerance after being re-finished.
At Shadbolt the re-finishing was done on a in house custom built lifter
surface grinder. It was considered the best reliable way to assure that the
mating surfaces would wear into each other and provide predictable long
service.
All customers were advised NOT to put old lifters on new or re-ground cams.
they were also advised to bring the lifters to be re-ground into the shop
marked, carded or boxed so that they could be re-fitted into block in the
holes they came out of.
New lifters on old cams was also not advised.
When these new or freshly ground surfaces are first run, the square inch
loading at the molecular interface is very high. this is the reason that
liberal application of molly type greases at installation are advised. Once
the first few thousand revolutions are past the loading begins going down
quickly. If the RPM can be kept above idle at this stage the break in will
have a much better chance of succeeding.
In almost all push rod engines with the cam build into the crankcase area
the camshafts are positioned above the crankshaft. Most of these designs do
not provide force fed oil to each individual cam lobe. Most of our Lycoming
engines are in this group These engines rely on oil being flung off of the
various pressurized rotating and reciprocating parts for camshaft
lubrication. The closer to the crank the cam lives the better the low RPM
oiling.
These cam application's would love never to run under 1500 RPM. They like
oil splashing all over them at all times. Long term low idle should be
avoided if possible.
Go to to get contact info. Ask for Barry if you have need
of more concise information.
This information is the truth as I know it, I will accept and consider any
and all suggestions and corrections offered with a kind heart. all others
will be returned to sender. {|:-)!
Jim in kelowna considering and designing rudder trim ideas.
----- Original Message -----
From: kempthornes <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2000 10:33 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Engine making metal
>
> Bill,
>
> You said: > The lifters were odd-lot units from
> > the parts drawer at the overhauler's shop... perhaps a troubling sign in
> > retrospect. Polishing and cleaning these lifters and assembling them
>
> I have no aircraft engine overhaul experience but have done many auto
> engines, mostly high performance sports cars. I was taught to be very
> careful to keep lifters in order so that they continue to run on the same
> cam lobes as otherwise lifters and lobes would wear excessively.
>
> Can you remove the lifters for inspection without splitting the case?
>
> I think I would be anxious to get that metal out of the engine before it
> eats up other parts.
>
> Screen? Do you have a filter too?
>
> hal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Heated pitot tube |
Hi Ed,
No problem with under power But keep in mind that cold air passing over the
pitot at cruise speed will push most of the 225 degrees back off the tip of
your pitot. a 12 volt heater might be swapped for what you have. Better some
heat but, I think hotter would be better.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: edperry64 <edperry64(at)netzero.net>
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2000 6:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: Heated pitot tube
>
> Hi,
>
> I know very little about electrical so here is the question....I have
Bob's
> Book.....
>
> I just bought a new surplus Heated pitot tube, AN5812-1 "L" shaped. The
> catch is that it is 24 volts. I hooked it up to my 12 volt 15amp power
> supply to see what would happen. The results were 225 degrees were
produced
> at the tip and it showed 3 amps of current. I left it on for about 10
> minutes and it didn't blow the 5 amp CB I put in line.
> So the question is, Am I looking for trouble running this in a 12 volt
> system or will it only put out a lower amount of heat. It seems like the
225
> degrees would be adequate for deicing.
>
> Thank You,
> Ed Perry
> RV8QB 180/CS Heated Pitot?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Pittman" <SPITTMAN(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Do we prime Platenuts? |
Intresting thread. I agree that the black plate nuts are coated. I have
had a box of them in the garage for 10 years and they look like new...unlike
some of my steel tools (bucking bars, rivet sets, ect.) that rust so easily
here in South Florida. It is so easy to prime them though, so why not?
But, on the other hand, there are lots of other steel on aluminum parts that
are not...bolts, washers, and pop rivets come to mind. Few people consider
priming these parts over the coating. It is easy to get carried away with
this priming thing.
Scott Pittman
RV-4 Wings
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "barry" <bpote(at)erols.com>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, December 08, 2000 11:08 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Do we prime Platenuts?
>
>
> >
> > i SURE DO. Plate nuts are bare steel. They ca n rust on their own. >
>
>
> Wrong!Plate nuts are not bare steel! They are coated and dont need
painting.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | right wing heavy, which trailing edge to squeez |
My right wing is about 2 lbs heavy in and I wondering which trailing edge to
squeez.
Thanks,
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Verticle Stabilizer RV6-A-QB |
Yep..you have to trim it...it's alot of cutting! They build it long, so
that you can fit yours to your liking. If memory serves me correctly, the
skin does extend aft of the bulkhead, which you trim to match your rudder.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing/
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2000 5:16 PM
Subject: RV-List: Verticle Stabilizer RV6-A-QB
>
> List: Just installed my horizontal stabilizer with no problem. Moving on
to
> the vertical stabilizer I noticed both the fuselage skin and 3\4 in. angle
> extend 3 inches beyond where the vertical stab. is to bolt?
> It would appear the angle and skin need trimmed but how much? Any
> builders have this problem? Does someone have a good picture on their
> Website? Tom Cold in Ohio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ACK vs Ameri-King ELT |
I have the ACk, and I did some shock tests to see how they activated, used
the panel switch, etc, etc. It always reset just fine, and appears to work
well. I even activated it and had a friend tune his transiever to 121.5.
He lives about 2 miles away, behind some hills. He was inside his living
room, and picked it up great. I have the SS whip inside the cabin, under
the rear window. I know we were talking about -8's , but just for
reference, the installation is here:
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing/avionics.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing/
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2000 8:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: ACK vs Ameri-King ELT
>
> >I purchased the Ameri-King (its just about square in shape) and was
> > disappointed with its antenna. It's simply a long, metal whip
> > the company insists be hung out in the breeze. I have't figured out
> > a way to mount this antenna under the canopy of my -8 so will
> > probably have to spend $70 or so buying a rubber duckie. ACK would
> > be my choice if I had it to do over.
>
> >Ditto on the ACK. The thing I like is the antenna, which has a coil in
the
> >midst of it and allows mounting in the bag compartment
>
> Gentlemen, allow me to weigh in here. I have owned both ELT's on two
> different planes and can speak from experience. The ACK antenna, with its
> center loading co8il, will last almost no time at all in the elements
brefore
> its pretty chrome coating begins to flake off at the stress points and the
> resulting rust is UGLY. If you mount the antenna under the canopy you
might
> come out okay.
>
> The AK antenna, a stainless tapered whip, is actually the best thing about
> the ELT, the worst thing being that if you ever activate an AK-450 from
the
> panel, as I did, and find you cannot turn it off again, you will be
dealing
> with Victor, twice, before getting satisfaction. This may make you afraid
to
> risk testing the unit ever again, even though you are supposed to. I
decided
> to leave mine alone and not chance it.
>
> IMO, the best outside installation would be AK's whip antenna and ACK's
> reliable ELT. I plan to move my antenna "indoors" if tests show the drag
is
> significant. This has been hashed out on the list recently and I am
> unconvinced that the numbers are as dire as the drag equations suggest.
My
> AK whip is presently on the turtledeck aft of the canopy. By some
> calculations, this is costing me 5 hp and untold speed.
>
> I can almost guarantee you that the substitution of a rubber duck antenna
> will violate the TSO for either unit. In that case, you might as well
leave
> the ELT out altogether and save weight. Well, given the performance of
ELT's
> in actual crashes, it's almost that bad...
>
> Bill Boyd
> RV-6A O-320/FP Sensenich
> Hop-Along Airfield - 12VA
> Clifton Forge, VA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Items For Sale (Canada) |
I'm interested in Rv-6A kit as well as RV-6A. Please let me know.
Steve Hurlbut
Comox, BC
shurlbut(at)island.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org>
Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2000 4:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: Items For Sale (Canada)
>
> We have the following items listed for sale on our web site. All items
> are currently in Canada.
>
> RV-6
> RV4 project
> RV6A Kit
> RV-6A
> Telex & SigTronics Headsets
> New RV-4 (lost medical forces sale)
>
> You can view the listings at
>
> http://www.vansairforce.org/classifieds/
>
> Tedd McHenry
> Van's Air Force
> Western Canada Wing
> tedd(at)vansairforce.org
> http://www.vansairforce.org
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: right wing heavy, which trailing edge to squeeze |
In a message dated 12/8/00 9:58:07 PM Pacific Standard Time, Rvmils(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< My right wing is about 2 lbs heavy in and I wondering which trailing edge
to
squeeze >>
Make sure the plane has been evenly loaded fuel wise and occupant wise. Make
sure that the heavy wing is not squeezed too sharp to start with. Go fly and
neutralize all trimming forces (be sure you have disconnected any springs in
the system). Remembering the phrase "light squeeze", squeeze the light wing
aileron trailing edge lightly all along its span and go fly again. Keep
squeezing the light wing lightly until you are flying level. If the heavy
side needs unsqueezing, a blocking of the trailing edge is warranted.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Richardson" <kpd_307(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming and Auto gas date.) |
Fellow Listers:
In regards to the other posts on this subject I thought I would weigh
in. I pump about 1000 gals of 100LL each summer weekend, and felt that some
quality control issues were being overlooked with auto gas. Consider that
your average gas station could care less about water, however to maintain a
dealership we not only have to drain all sumps of water daily, but also
maintain a log of such. The average gas station has no such sumps on their
tanks. Just ask them to pay for your fuel dry when your gas line freezes
this winter to find out how much they care about water in their fuel. In
this light it sounds as if the water separating funnel is a novel idea.
The other problem with auto gas is foreign matter in the tank. Auto
fuel is not filtered from the semi, and probably only marginally at the
pump. Avgas is filtered as it comes off of the semi and goes into the tank,
and again when pumped into the truck, and a third time as it is placed in
the wing. Our filters are also changed every six months whether they need
it or not. Again we must chart quality control on the amount of sediment
that is present at the sumping of all tanks. YOU become that quality
control agent when using auto gas. A close knit cloth would probably catch
most if not all of the sediment that I have seen, however there again our
tanks are sumped daily. Just look at the bottom of your gas can to see the
problem. It only takes one bit of gunk to clog a carburetor jet.
I am not trying to sell avgas by any means, but am genuinely interested
in your engine maintaining an adequate supply of fuel to run on. Scrutinize
what you pour into your tanks....your life may depend on it.
Just my .02 worth.
Greg
RV-9A emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming and Auto gas date.) |
Listers,
I just read Greg Richardson's report on auto gas vs avgas quality
controls. It was a good report; but, it also came from someone who
works, or has worked, at a FBO that derives part of its income from
the sell of avgas. That makes it a bit more biased and adds to those
wives tales we read so much about. I'm not trying to put down his
report in any way because I know he believes in what he's saying;
but, I think a few words from the other side are in order to balance
things out a bit. Well, maybe it'll be more than a few words because I
get into this stuff. :-)
>Consider that your average gas station could care less about water,
>however to maintain a dealership we not only have to drain all
>sumps of water daily, but also maintain a log of such. The average
>gas station has no such sumps on their tanks. Just ask them to pay
>for your fuel dry when your gas line freezes this winter to find out
>how much they care about water in their fuel. In this light it sounds
>as if the water separating funnel is a novel idea.
If water in the gas is a problem at a gas station, I can assure you that
it gets fixed quickly if that place wants to stay in business. I firmly
believe that we get more water in our auto and airplane tanks from
condensation than we do from the pumps. I've been pumping auto
gas into my airplanes for almost 16 years and have yet to find water
in it, other than that little bit that I sometimes let get in when there is
water around the flush caps. To assure myself that I'm going to get
good quality gas, I go to high volume stations where gas is fresh and
not given time to build up moisture, etc. Granted, they may not
check the gas for water every day; but, I can assure you that the
average high volume gas station is going to sell far more gas than
your average FBO any day of the week. I feel a lot better about that
than pumping in some 100LL that's been sitting in a tank for a very
long time. I'm betting that not every FBO does those water checks
so religiously, either.
BTW, when I do an annual, I have to open the bottom of the Facet
fuel pump. If there is water in the catch basin, it's usually no more
than a drop, or two. There is never enough to freeze the lines.
When was the last time you had water freeze in your auto's gas
lines? Maybe never? Same here.
>The other problem with auto gas is foreign matter in the tank. Auto
>fuel is not filtered from the semi, and probably only marginally at the
>pump. Avgas is filtered as it comes off of the semi and goes into the
>tank, and again when pumped into the truck, and a third time as it is
>placed in the wing. Our filters are also changed every six months
>whether they need it or not. Again we must chart quality control on
>the amount of sediment that is present at the sumping of all tanks.
>YOU become that quality control agent when using auto gas. A
>close knit cloth would probably catch most if not all of the sediment
>that I have seen, however there again our tanks are sumped daily.
>Just look at the bottom of your gas can to see the problem. It only
>takes one bit of gunk to clog a carburetor jet.
It seems to me that I've read that the same trucks that carry avgas
also carry auto gas. If that's true, which I have no reason to doubt,
the same filters are used for both when that gas comes out of the
trucks. I'm sure they don't make tankers for avgas and tankers for
auto gas. They make tankers to carry gas, period. I'm betting the
same process is used for both as it's pumped into the trucks. I may
be wrong; but, it doesn't make sense not to go for quality control, no
matter which gas is pumped into the tankers.
As for the filters at the pumps, I can't say how often the pumps are
changed at gas stations; but, I'm betting FBOs don't all follow the
same schedules for changing them, either. Those things are
expensive; so, I'm betting many FBOs hedge on changing them at
regular intervals to cut down on costs. Our FBO depends on the
local airport board to pay for changing them. How dependable do
you think that is? :-)
As for sediments actually getting into the cans, I've never seen any in
mine. Using a good filter when filling the tanks is a good idea; but,
I've never found anything to filter. That doesn't mean that all of us
are careful. Some of us aren't. Some kind of filtering may be in
order. BTW, I did find some sediment one time in my C172's tank. I
couldn't figure out what it was until it finally dawned on me that it was
an insect that had gotten into the vent and had been pushd into the
tank and died.
One question: How often do you change the fuel filter in your car?
I'm terrible about that and don't do it until the car is about to die. I've
only had to do that to one car. It had such a fine filter that I had to
replace the filters at about 5000 miles. I've never had to replace a
filter on any other vehicle I've owned. It would stand to reason that I
would be changing filters on a regular basis if the auto fuel was that
bad. The injectors would be clogging up and killing the engine. Not
so. My vehicles go for many thousands of miles on the same filters.
How about well over 100 thousand miles. I told you I was bad about
it. So much for the dirty fuel theory, though.
Oh, yeah. I had the opportunity to do the single venturi AD on the
Cheetah. By that time, it had several hundred hours of running on
auto gas. When I took the carb apart, the bowl was spotless. There
is a screen on the fuel pickup, a screen on the Facet pump, and a
screen on the carb. None that I can examine have dirt in them when
I check them; but, I do feel good that any dirt large enough to close
a jet is most likely going to come from the bowl, not from the fuel.
>I am not trying to sell avgas by any means, but am genuinely
>interested in your engine maintaining an adequate supply of fuel to
>run on. Scrutinize what you pour into your tanks....your life may
>depend on it.
This is very good advice. Buying your auto gas from high volume
stations and doing regular fuel sumping will go a long way to keeping
a running engine. Many of you chose to put in gascolators; so, you'll
have one more spot you can check for crud than I do. I can assure
you that I worry far more about vapor locking with auto gas than I do
about the dirt and water in it. Even vapor locking is a small problem
that's easy to work around.
I hope this helps those who may be interested in using auto gas. I'm
going to archive this one. This discussion is too important not to.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (77.9 on the tach. Mostly on auto gas)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Do we prime Platenuts? |
Thanks for all the replies.
I ended up shaking them around in a jar of MEK. I then primed the underside
of the platenuts (since it's in contact the alodized spar). It may be
overkill, but shouldn't hurt either. The MEK slightly had the color of the
coating after cleaning and I was a bit worried about REMOVING the protective
coat.
Are
RV-8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott Pittman
Sent: December 9, 2000 12:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Do we prime Platenuts?
Intresting thread. I agree that the black plate nuts are coated. I have
had a box of them in the garage for 10 years and they look like new...unlike
some of my steel tools (bucking bars, rivet sets, ect.) that rust so easily
here in South Florida. It is so easy to prime them though, so why not?
But, on the other hand, there are lots of other steel on aluminum parts that
are not...bolts, washers, and pop rivets come to mind. Few people consider
priming these parts over the coating. It is easy to get carried away with
this priming thing.
Scott Pittman
RV-4 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Countersinking perection |
I just discovered that all the holes I countersunk on the wingspar for the
fuel tank attachment are somewhat oblong. Not alot, but oblong. It turns out
that my countersink cage is not perfectly straight. It's so little that it's
very hard to see, but I think this is the only way the holes can get
enlarged in one direction.
Anyone else exeperienced this? Hopefully, it will still be ok for strength.
I tried another cage, another coutersink and another drill. It seems it's
impossible to get it perfectly straight so the little 'nipple' on the
countersink stays fixed in one spot.
Am I to critical?
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Countersinking perection |
Are,
Your countersink bit may "walking" a bit. Did you use any kind of backup to
keep it centered. I got the idea from Sam Buccanan on how to keep the
countersink centered in the hole. You can see it at the bottom of this page
in his website:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/tanks.html
God luck
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming and Auto gas date.) |
I am aware of one problem with auto gas that Greg did not mention. It was with
a major company in New Jersey but not a Shell or Amoco type of major. I must
have gotten a load of winter (high vapor pressure) gas in the summer. When I
wheel landed at approximately 80 mph, the prop stopped. The gas was boiling in
the gascolator. This has never happened with Shell, Amoco, or aviation fuel.
Greg Richardson wrote:
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> In regards to the other posts on this subject I thought I would weigh
> in. I pump about 1000 gals of 100LL each summer weekend, and felt that some
> quality control issues were being overlooked with auto gas. Consider that
> your average gas station could care less about water, however to maintain a
> dealership we not only have to drain all sumps of water daily, but also
> maintain a log of such. The average gas station has no such sumps on their
> tanks. Just ask them to pay for your fuel dry when your gas line freezes
> this winter to find out how much they care about water in their fuel. In
> this light it sounds as if the water separating funnel is a novel idea.
> The other problem with auto gas is foreign matter in the tank. Auto
> fuel is not filtered from the semi, and probably only marginally at the
> pump. Avgas is filtered as it comes off of the semi and goes into the tank,
> and again when pumped into the truck, and a third time as it is placed in
> the wing. Our filters are also changed every six months whether they need
> it or not. Again we must chart quality control on the amount of sediment
> that is present at the sumping of all tanks. YOU become that quality
> control agent when using auto gas. A close knit cloth would probably catch
> most if not all of the sediment that I have seen, however there again our
> tanks are sumped daily. Just look at the bottom of your gas can to see the
> problem. It only takes one bit of gunk to clog a carburetor jet.
> I am not trying to sell avgas by any means, but am genuinely interested
> in your engine maintaining an adequate supply of fuel to run on. Scrutinize
> what you pour into your tanks....your life may depend on it.
>
> Just my .02 worth.
>
> Greg
> RV-9A emp
>
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| From: | "Denis (Bum) Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
Can someone please point me to the yeller pages? I have lost my address .
Need to find the outfit in Niagra which sells new Nippondenso alternators.
My %
##** Mark Landoll alternator has crapped out for the nth time.
Thanks
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Countersinking perection |
Are:
One thing that you should try is clamping a thick piece of aluminum with the
same size hole under the hole that you are countersinking. Then the
"nipple" on the countersinking bit will have more to guide on as you cut the
countersink. Also won't allow the bit to wander and thus make your CS
oblong. Try it...you'll like it!
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuse
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: Are Barstad <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Date: Saturday, December 09, 2000 8:40 AM
Subject: RV-List: Countersinking perection
>
>I just discovered that all the holes I countersunk on the wingspar for the
>fuel tank attachment are somewhat oblong. Not alot, but oblong. It turns
out
>that my countersink cage is not perfectly straight. It's so little that
it's
>very hard to see, but I think this is the only way the holes can get
>enlarged in one direction.
>
>Anyone else exeperienced this? Hopefully, it will still be ok for strength.
>I tried another cage, another coutersink and another drill. It seems it's
>impossible to get it perfectly straight so the little 'nipple' on the
>countersink stays fixed in one spot.
>
>Am I to critical?
>
>Are
>RV-8 Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: yeller pages |
Try http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: Denis (Bum) Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2000 8:52 AM
Subject: RV-List: yeller pages
>
> Can someone please point me to the yeller pages? I have lost my address .
>
> Need to find the outfit in Niagra which sells new Nippondenso alternators.
> My %
##** Mark Landoll alternator has crapped out for the nth time.
>
> Thanks
>
> D Walsh
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | Re: yeller pages & Alternator |
| From: | "Denis (Bum) Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 12/9/00 8:01, Jerry Calvert at rv6bldr(at)home.com wrote:
>
> Try http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Denis (Bum) Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2000 8:52 AM
> Subject: RV-List: yeller pages
>
>
>
>>
>> Can someone please point me to the yeller pages? I have lost my address .
>>
>> Need to find the outfit in Niagra which sells new Nippondenso alternators.
>> My %
##** Mark Landoll alternator has crapped out for the nth time.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> D Walsh
>>
>>
Thanks for the prompt response. I have meanwhile come to full wakefulness
and found a link on the Doug Reeves site (what a marvelous thing!)
Sure enough Niagra Air Parts was what I was looking for; however they
apparently aren't open on saturday. Sigh.
BTW if anyone has any negative experiences with this 40A alternator kit I
haven't heard it. Sounds like a great way to go at $225.
________________________________________________________________________________
We used a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel. In fact we have used the Dremel
tool through out the construction of our RV6A. We have a nibler but after
using the nibler you will still need to smooth the cut.
I know how hard it is to cut holes in your tenderly built wing Good luck.
Rod & Rollie
RV6A
Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Petri" <dpetri(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming and Auto gas date.) |
Has anyone had problems with ethanol in the auto fuel. From Nov through
March the gas folks add some here in Colorado for the cold temps.
TIA,
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
That was a great fly in, and a joy to be at. I hitched a ride in Rick
Caldwells beautiful RV-6 and got to witness first hand how far along his
aerobatic training is coming. Very nice. The flight of 3 RV's in formation
going down and back was truly an awesome sight. Two RV-4's flown by Bill
and Bill the air force twins and Rick's -6. If you guys wonder where our
tax dollars go, you should fly along with one of our X-military pilots.
These two are extremely good pilots and Rick is coming right up behind
them.......three very nice guys. Having three Bills and a Rick along made
conversation pretty funny, but we managed. On the way back, I was allowed
the opportunity to fly wing in a -4. Formation flying is a lot of fun, and
I enjoyed sneaking it up in there far enough to make me nervous (about 5
feet further out than Bill typically flys without thinking about it). The
feather light controls in dead calm air at 5000ft or so, really makes it a
joy. Following that, we had a session of 'let the air force boys see how
close they can follow in trail while dancing 3D in the clouds.' Rick
hung right in there....a testimont to his skills for sure.
Anyway, thanks Bernie for the invite and putting on a great fly in. Thanks
to Rick for allowing me to tag along, and thanks to the Bill squared duo for
showing us how it's done. I also got to meet a couple of the RV List types.
Scott is as nice in person as he is in email...his lurking friends are as
well....though they're more shy about posting. :-) I just had to razz
them a bit, now didn't I?
It's been a GREAT day.
Bill
-4 wings
Heading out to the garage right now, motivation level is high.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: right wing heavy, which trailing edge to squeez |
Carey,
You squeeze the aileron on the "light" wing.
Dave
Rvmils(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> My right wing is about 2 lbs heavy in and I wondering which trailing edge to
> squeez.
> Thanks,
> Carey Mills
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: right wing heavy, which trailing edge to squeez |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rvmils(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2000 12:53 AM
Subject: RV-List: right wing heavy, which trailing edge to squeez
>
> My right wing is about 2 lbs heavy in and I wondering which trailing edge
to
> squeez.
> Thanks,
> Carey Mills
>
>
Squeezing has its draw backs.As you squeeze, the stick forces go up.
It takes alot less than you think to add alot of stick force. For some this
does not matter.
Just a caution.Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doyal Plute <dplute(at)horizon.hit.net> |
what kind of nuts are used to install carb to 0-360? elastic stop nuts
or steel stop nuts?
thanks:
Doyal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
Lycoming has typically used a flat washer, internal star washer, nut
combination. Elastic or steel stop nuts will not stand up to repeated
thermal cycles.
Bruce
Glasair III
Doyal Plute wrote:
>
> what kind of nuts are used to install carb to 0-360? elastic stop nuts
> or steel stop nuts?
> thanks:
> Doyal
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon Robertson <gordon(at)safemail.com> |
From: "Cliff Begnaud" <Shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com>
Subject: RV-List: Nibbler
I'm planning for the leading edge wing light in my -9. A hole has to be
cut
in the wing leading edge and I'm assuming that this is done with a
nibbler.
I would greatly appreciate hearing from someone who has done this.
Exactly
which tool should I purchase for this job?
Thanks,
Cliff
RV9A (N782PC -reserved)
Empennage, wing arrives near christmas
Cliff --
I used a 2" cut-off disk in a die grinder. Worked great, but be
careful. It is very aggressive.
ps. The die grinder is one of the most useful tools I own. And it was
only $20.
Gordon Robertson
RV8 sb wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lkyswede(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Prime |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon Robertson <gordon(at)safemail.com> |
| Subject: | 24v pitot heater |
Hi,
I know very little about electrical so here is the question....I have
Bob's
Book.....
I just bought a new surplus Heated pitot tube, AN5812-1 "L" shaped. The
catch is that it is 24 volts. I hooked it up to my 12 volt 15amp power
supply to see what would happen. The results were 225 degrees were
produced
at the tip and it showed 3 amps of current. I left it on for about 10
minutes and it didn't blow the 5 amp CB I put in line.
So the question is, Am I looking for trouble running this in a 12 volt
system or will it only put out a lower amount of heat. It seems like the
225
degrees would be adequate for deicing.
Thank You,
Ed Perry
RV8QB 180/CS Heated Pitot?
Ed,
If it really is a 24 volt unit, then at 12 volts it will draw about half
the current, and since the voltage is half as well, it will consume
about 1/4 the power. The formula is
W = (Voltage squared) divided by Resistance
where W is the power in watts. The resistance is fixed by the design.
So you can see that at half the voltage, the power is one quarter.
The temperature may be 225 degrees, but with the airflow at a very low
temperature, you need a lot of power to melt the ice. So I think your
24V unit will not work for you at 12 volts.
Gordon Robertson
RV8 sb wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fran Malczynski" <ebafm(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Firewall Forward Stuff |
Listers, I've searched the archives for answers to the following questions,
but haven't come up with anything. Hope you can help.
I have an O360-A2A from Aerosport Power that has a Precision MA-4-5 carb and
a Nippon Denso alternator.
1.) On the instructions for the alternator it says to hook the wire labeled
IGN to plus power. I have a yellow wire and a green wire going into a Molex
? connector on the alternator and see no labeling around them. Any idea
which wire is the IGN wire?
2.) The fuel line to the carb connects to an AN823-6 elbow that is
connected to a coupling nut marked 68-93 that looks like it's a pipe thread
to union fitting screwed into the inlet port on the carb through a copper
washer.
My question is: Should there be something other then the copper washer that
seals this connection?
3.) Also, what is the torque value I should use on the nuts to attach the
carb to the engine?
4.) The "P" lead connection on the left magneto has a phenolic washer, an
internal tooth washer and a nut on the "P" stud. This may sound like a
stupid question but where in this sequence does the ring terminal for the
"P' lead go? Whats the function of the phenolic washer.?
Thanks for any help.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 (finish)
O360, Performance Propellars Inc. prop
Olcott, Ny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tdale4" <tdale4(at)email.msn.com> |
Can anyone tell me the main differences between the RV6A and the RV9A? I've
looked at Van's homepage but the both look so similar. I guess the 9A is
better if you don't plan on doing aerobatics????? It seems easier to build,
almost as fast with a smaller engine, and a little larger inside. Any
opinions would be greatly appreciated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bird strikes |
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
>
> On reading your post why did my mind go immediately to the thought?:
> Just imagine if deer could fly!
>
> Jim
They do . . . at an altitude of about 10 feet AGL.
Cecil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 12V power sources |
Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> OK, who is going to field electrical questions now that Bob has dropped off?
> I used an old cell phone cigarette lighter adapter to power up a used T&B I
> bought to see if the gyro would run and it worked fine, I was thinking about
> using the other old cell phone house current adapter to see if it would work
> in the shop to power up instruments. Anyone tried this or have any thoughts?
> Kevin Shannon
> -9A just rolled over canoe
> electrically challenged
>
It's doubtful it will have enough current to run anything with a motor
in it. If the voltage is correct, you could use it as a 'trickle
charger' to keep a small gel cell battery charged, & use that to power
your instruments. Gel cells can be purchased for ~$10 from burglar alarm
supply houses or even Radio Shack.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV6-List: carb nuts? |
Doyal: Use Steel nuts, course thread and lock washer.
----- Original Message -----
From: Doyal
Plute
Sent: 12/9/00 11:44:25 PM
Subject: RV6-List: carb nuts?
-- RV6-List message posted by: Doyal Plute dplute(at)horizon.hit.net
what kind of nuts are used to install carb to 0-360? elastic
stop nuts
or steel stop nuts?
thanks:
Doyal
http://www.matronics.com/order
--- Harvey Sigmon
--- flyhars(at)earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas E. Bostard" <dougacft(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 12/09/00 |
don't quote me but I was instructed to use ordinary coarse thread (if I
recall) hardware store nuts with star lockwashers. It's been a while,
but you may find that's the thread category on the studs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 24v pitot heater |
>
> I know very little about electrical so here is the question....I have
> Bob's
> Book.....
>
> I just bought a new surplus Heated pitot tube, AN5812-1 "L" shaped. The
> catch is that it is 24 volts. I hooked it up to my 12 volt 15amp power
> supply to see what would happen. The results were 225 degrees were
> produced
> at the tip and it showed 3 amps of current. I left it on for about 10
> minutes and it didn't blow the 5 amp CB I put in line.
> So the question is, Am I looking for trouble running this in a 12 volt
> system or will it only put out a lower amount of heat. It seems like the
> 225
> degrees would be adequate for deicing.
>
> Thank You,
> Ed Perry
> RV8QB 180/CS Heated Pitot?
>
> Ed,
> If it really is a 24 volt unit, then at 12 volts it will draw about half
> the current, and since the voltage is half as well, it will consume
> about 1/4 the power. The formula is
>
> W = (Voltage squared) divided by Resistance
>
> where W is the power in watts. The resistance is fixed by the design.
> So you can see that at half the voltage, the power is one quarter.
>
> The temperature may be 225 degrees, but with the airflow at a very low
> temperature, you need a lot of power to melt the ice. So I think your
> 24V unit will not work for you at 12 volts.
>
> Gordon Robertson
> RV8 sb wings
Listers,
I'm afraid that Gordon has this backwards. The total watts used is
constant. Therefore using half the voltage (12 versus 24) the amperage will
double to obtain the same wattage. George is correct that this 24 volt
heater will work with 12 volts. It simply uses twice the current. The only
advantage to the 24 volt system is that the supply and ground wires can be
of a smaller gauge (slightly lighter) wire.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A finishing wings and starting fuselage
Boca Raton, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Aileron bellcrank |
I indeed discovered that the empennage kit have much more detailed drawings
and instructions than the wing kit.
The aileron bellcrank:
I noticed that on a couple of occasions (plus one for tie-down bars), the
callout for bolts are different than what is supplied. Luckily, it looks
like the callout is wrong, not what they supplied. My drawing call for no
washers on any of the bellcrank bolts to be placed under the bolt head
(except for the bolt that goes through the bushing). Is this right? If I do
place washers under the heads, the bolts as supplied will be too short. It
just seems strange not to use washers under the bolt head.
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
It was awesome. My brother and I put over 6 hours on it yesterday. We had a
heavy right wing, squeezed the left aileron and now it flies hands off.
Performance at a 1000 w/0360 and culver prop is 173mph @2400, 182 @ 2500, and
193 @ 2640 max rpm. The max rpm should go up as the engine breaks in and
that was with no wheel pants. I can't believe how easy this plane is to fly,
land, and handle on the ground, and I can't wait for the rest of you to find
out. What a joy to fly!!! Many thanks to list.
Blue Skies,
Carey Mills
RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Aileron bellcrank |
Are,
The reason you don't see washers called out is that the head of bolt is
going to be on steel so the shoulder on the head of the bolt (look carefully
and you'll see the underside of the head is not perfectly flat but there is
a shoulder there) is good enough.
Bob
RV8#423 unpacking fuselage kit!
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Are Barstad
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2000 10:47 AM
Subject: RV-List: Aileron bellcrank
I indeed discovered that the empennage kit have much more detailed drawings
and instructions than the wing kit.
The aileron bellcrank:
I noticed that on a couple of occasions (plus one for tie-down bars), the
callout for bolts are different than what is supplied. Luckily, it looks
like the callout is wrong, not what they supplied. My drawing call for no
washers on any of the bellcrank bolts to be placed under the bolt head
(except for the bolt that goes through the bushing). Is this right? If I do
place washers under the heads, the bolts as supplied will be too short. It
just seems strange not to use washers under the bolt head.
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N286RV flies!! |
Carey,
Okay... I'm ready to find out how wonderful "It Flys!!!". I'll be over
to pick it up in the morning.
Chuck
P.S. Congratulations, we all share your joy & excitement.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: 24v pitot heater |
>
>>
>> I know very little about electrical so here is the question....I have
>> Bob's
>> Book.....
>>
>> I just bought a new surplus Heated pitot tube, AN5812-1 "L" shaped. The
>> catch is that it is 24 volts. I hooked it up to my 12 volt 15amp power
>> supply to see what would happen. The results were 225 degrees were
>> produced
>> at the tip and it showed 3 amps of current. I left it on for about 10
>> minutes and it didn't blow the 5 amp CB I put in line.
>> So the question is, Am I looking for trouble running this in a 12 volt
>> system or will it only put out a lower amount of heat. It seems like the
>> 225
>> degrees would be adequate for deicing.
>>
>> Thank You,
>> Ed Perry
>> RV8QB 180/CS Heated Pitot?
>>
>> Ed,
>> If it really is a 24 volt unit, then at 12 volts it will draw about half
>> the current, and since the voltage is half as well, it will consume
>> about 1/4 the power. The formula is
>>
>> W = (Voltage squared) divided by Resistance
>>
>> where W is the power in watts. The resistance is fixed by the design.
>> So you can see that at half the voltage, the power is one quarter.
>>
>> The temperature may be 225 degrees, but with the airflow at a very low
>> temperature, you need a lot of power to melt the ice. So I think your
>> 24V unit will not work for you at 12 volts.
>>
>> Gordon Robertson
>> RV8 sb wings
>
>Listers,
> I'm afraid that Gordon has this backwards. The total watts used is
>constant. Therefore using half the voltage (12 versus 24) the amperage will
>double to obtain the same wattage. George is correct that this 24 volt
>heater will work with 12 volts. It simply uses twice the current. The only
>advantage to the 24 volt system is that the supply and ground wires can be
>of a smaller gauge (slightly lighter) wire.
>Charlie Kuss
>RV-8A finishing wings and starting fuselage
>Boca Raton, Fl.
>
Time out here. The physical characteristic of the tube that drives
the calculation is the resistance. Assuming the resistance of the
heater is constant, halving the voltage will give half the current.
Power equals current times voltage, so the power would be one quarter
as much. In reality, the resistance increases as the temperature
increases. This unit will operate at a lower temperature with 12v
than with 24v, so the resistance will be a bit lower. This will
cause it to draw a bit more current than this back of the envelope
calculation indicates, and the power will be somewhat more than one
quarter as much.
The big problem here is that we don't know how much the airflow over
the pitot head will decrease its temperature. If this was my
aircraft, I would look for a 12v tube, unless you are prepared to
have a frozen pitot tube, in which case why bother with the heated
tube at all?
Charlie - if you want a physical demonstration of the effect of
voltage on the power that is developed, try hooking a 12v light bulb
up to 120v.Under your theory, it should only draw 1/10 as much
current, to keep the same wattage. Thus that 12v should last forever
on a 120v circuit. In fact, that bulb will put out many times its
rated wattage for a fraction of a second, then the filament will
overheat and burn out.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 24v pitot heater |
Well here goes my 0.02, hoping it has not been too many years.
The pitot heating is accomplished by a resistive element placed in the
pitot tube. The resistance stays essentially the same (actually there is
probably some small change as the temperature increases) regardless of the
voltage applied. Therefore if 12V is applied to a resistive element
designed to produce X watts of power at 24 volts it will produce 1/4X watts
at 12Volts. This is from the basic relationship of I=E/R or current
Voltage/Resistance. So it follows that if the Voltage is halved from 24 to
12 volts and the resistance remains the same the current flow with 12 volts
will also be 1/2 of the current with 24 volts.. Since one expression of
electrical Power =E*I, then with 1/2 the voltage applied (i.e 12Volts vice
24 Volts) and 1/2 the current flowing due to the reduced voltage, the power
will actually be 1/4 the value at 12Volts compared to 24Volts.
You get the same results with the equivalent equation of Power = I
2*R
Practical example. Assuming resistance of 10 ohms. Then at 24 Volts, I
24/10 or 2.4 amps. If you apply 12 volts, then I (current) =12/10 or 1.2
amps (1/2 the I value at 24 volts). So for power at 24 volts, P=I*E
24*2.4
57.6 watts. At 12 Volts, P=12/1.2 = 14.4 Watts. 57.6/4 = 14.4 showing that
the power at 12 volts is 1/4 that of the value generated with 24 volts.
So, I think with that much less than the designed powered using 12 volts you
face the serious risk that the pitot tube would not generate sufficient heat
to keep the ice off (all depends on the environmental conditions of course)
Ed Anderson
then the power will
>
> >
> > I know very little about electrical so here is the question....I have
> > Bob's
> > Book.....
> >
> > I just bought a new surplus Heated pitot tube, AN5812-1 "L" shaped. The
> > catch is that it is 24 volts. I hooked it up to my 12 volt 15amp power
> > supply to see what would happen. The results were 225 degrees were
> > produced
> > at the tip and it showed 3 amps of current. I left it on for about 10
> > minutes and it didn't blow the 5 amp CB I put in line.
> > So the question is, Am I looking for trouble running this in a 12 volt
> > system or will it only put out a lower amount of heat. It seems like the
> > 225
> > degrees would be adequate for deicing.
> >
> > Thank You,
> > Ed Perry
> > RV8QB 180/CS Heated Pitot?
> >
> > Ed,
> > If it really is a 24 volt unit, then at 12 volts it will draw about half
> > the current, and since the voltage is half as well, it will consume
> > about 1/4 the power. The formula is
> >
> > W = (Voltage squared) divided by Resistance
> >
> > where W is the power in watts. The resistance is fixed by the design.
> > So you can see that at half the voltage, the power is one quarter.
> >
> > The temperature may be 225 degrees, but with the airflow at a very low
> > temperature, you need a lot of power to melt the ice. So I think your
> > 24V unit will not work for you at 12 volts.
> >
> > Gordon Robertson
> > RV8 sb wings
>
> Listers,
> I'm afraid that Gordon has this backwards. The total watts used is
> constant. Therefore using half the voltage (12 versus 24) the amperage
will
> double to obtain the same wattage. George is correct that this 24 volt
> heater will work with 12 volts. It simply uses twice the current. The only
> advantage to the 24 volt system is that the supply and ground wires can be
> of a smaller gauge (slightly lighter) wire.
> Charlie Kuss
> RV-8A finishing wings and starting fuselage
> Boca Raton, Fl.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Houg <thoug(at)ATTGLOBAL.NET> |
| Subject: | Re: 24v pitot heater |
>> Ed,
>> If it really is a 24 volt unit, then at 12 volts it will draw about half
>> the current, and since the voltage is half as well, it will consume
>> about 1/4 the power. The formula is
>>
>> W = (Voltage squared) divided by Resistance
>>
>> where W is the power in watts. The resistance is fixed by the design.
>> So you can see that at half the voltage, the power is one quarter.
>>
>> The temperature may be 225 degrees, but with the airflow at a very low
>> temperature, you need a lot of power to melt the ice. So I think your
>> 24V unit will not work for you at 12 volts.
>>
>> Gordon Robertson
>> RV8 sb wings
>Listers,
>I'm afraid that Gordon has this backwards. The total watts used is
>constant. Therefore using half the voltage (12 versus 24) the amperage
will
>double to obtain the same wattage. George is correct that this 24 volt
>heater will work with 12 volts. It simply uses twice the current. The only
>advantage to the 24 volt system is that the supply and ground wires can be
>of a smaller gauge (slightly lighter) wire.
>Charlie Kuss
>RV-8A finishing wings and starting fuselage
>Boca Raton, Fl.
I'm sorry Charlie, but I have to respectfully disagree with you on this
one. The Wattage is NOT constant and is exactly as Gordon points out,
proportional to the square of the voltage (given a constant resistance). If
the resistance of the heating element were constant throughout the
temperature range of the heating element, then the wattage would be 1/4
that of operating at 24V. However, one thing that Gordon overlooked is the
fact that a heating element has a non-linear resistance with respect to
temperature. As the heating element gets hotter, the resistance goes up.
Thus at 24 volts you won't have twice the current as you did at 12V. In
order to determine the actual thermal heat output it would be best to
measure the current operating at both 12V and 24V and then use that to
determine the relative power used (and consequentially the amount of heat
being generated). With out these measurements, I wouldn NOT go so far as to
say the pitot heat would not work at 12V.
One thing that may have lead to some confusion if the concept using smaller
gauge wire to deliver the same power at 24V. Given two devices both
requiring the same power (wattage) one designed for 12V and one for 24V, it
is correct that the 24V device will require half the current and require a
smaller gauge wire. However the key difference is that these two devices
will have different loads (or resistances) which accounts for the reduced
current of the 24V device. Does this help or make things muddier?
Todd Houg
RV-9A Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kogrh" <kogrh(at)willinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N286RV flies!! |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rvmils(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2000 10:00 AM
Subject: RV-List: N286RV flies!!
>
> It was awesome. My brother and I put over 6 hours on it yesterday. We
had a
> heavy right wing, squeezed the left aileron and now it flies hands off.
> Performance at a 1000 w/0360 and culver prop is 173mph @2400, 182 @ 2500,
and
> 193 @ 2640 max rpm. The max rpm should go up as the engine breaks in and
> that was with no wheel pants. I can't believe how easy this plane is to
fly,
> land, and handle on the ground, and I can't wait for the rest of you to
find
> out. What a joy to fly!!! Many thanks to list.
> Blue Skies,
> Carey Mills
> RV4
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kogrh" <kogrh(at)willinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N286RV flies!! |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rvmils(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2000 10:00 AM
Subject: RV-List: N286RV flies!!
>
> It was awesome. My brother and I put over 6 hours on it yesterday. We
had a
> heavy right wing, squeezed the left aileron and now it flies hands off.
> Performance at a 1000 w/0360 and culver prop is 173mph @2400, 182 @ 2500,
and
> 193 @ 2640 max rpm. The max rpm should go up as the engine breaks in and
> that was with no wheel pants. I can't believe how easy this plane is to
fly,
> land, and handle on the ground, and I can't wait for the rest of you to
find
> out. What a joy to fly!!! Many thanks to list.
> Blue Skies,
> Carey Mills
> RV4
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
ENewton57(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 12/10/00 8:05:54 AM Central Standard Time,
> tdale4(at)email.msn.com writes:
>
> < looked at Van's homepage but the both look so similar. I guess the 9A is
> better if you don't plan on doing aerobatics????? It seems easier to build,
> almost as fast with a smaller engine, and a little larger inside. Any
> opinions would be greatly appreciated. >>
>
> Actually you got it backwards. The 9A is not rated for aerobatics and the 6A
> is.
>
> In theory, the 6A is a little faster than the 9A however recent, unofficial
> tests have proven the 9A similarly configered is about as fast as the 6A.
> (the 9A had a MT tri-blade prop and the 6A didn't).
>
> The 9A is definitely easier (and faster) to build. The parts are all
> prepunched and its basically just gets put together. The 6A wings and
> empennage is pre-punched but the fuselage is not and must be drilled. Also,
> the 6 can be built as a taildragger if you want.
>
> It gets down to what your flying preferences are. If want a good
> cross-country machine and plan on going into short fields the 9A is the plane
> for you. If you want to do recreational aerobatics, the 6A (or 6) is the way
> to go.
>
> Hope this helps,
> Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
> RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage)
>
In additioon I well add that the 9A has a longer wing with different
airfoil. This wing well allow the 9A to fly slower which means that
you can also land at a slower speed.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
For those interested in having a 12v "source" for something requiring a
cigarette lighter receptacle (for example, a portable GPS), I picked up
a nice looking receptacle (power outlet) and cap at my local Chrysler
dealer. The part numbers are 4685591 and 4793554 . . . $3.60 and
$10.75. The "cap" is the base that the receptacle slides down into . .
. the cap is attached to it (i.e. won't fall off) and is labeled "Power
Outlet 12v - 20A". I think it will do the trick and will look quite
pleasing.
Rick Jory, Highlands Ranch, CO RV8A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 24v pitot heater |
Kevin
Thanks. I stand corrected.
Charlie
>
>
> Time out here. The physical characteristic of the tube that drives
> the calculation is the resistance. Assuming the resistance of the
> heater is constant, halving the voltage will give half the current.
> Power equals current times voltage, so the power would be one quarter
> as much. In reality, the resistance increases as the temperature
> increases. This unit will operate at a lower temperature with 12v
> than with 24v, so the resistance will be a bit lower. This will
> cause it to draw a bit more current than this back of the envelope
> calculation indicates, and the power will be somewhat more than one
> quarter as much.
>
> The big problem here is that we don't know how much the airflow over
> the pitot head will decrease its temperature. If this was my
> aircraft, I would look for a 12v tube, unless you are prepared to
> have a frozen pitot tube, in which case why bother with the heated
> tube at all?
>
> Charlie - if you want a physical demonstration of the effect of
> voltage on the power that is developed, try hooking a 12v light bulb
> up to 120v.Under your theory, it should only draw 1/10 as much
> current, to keep the same wattage. Thus that 12v should last forever
> on a 120v circuit. In fact, that bulb will put out many times its
> rated wattage for a fraction of a second, then the filament will
> overheat and burn out.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Knoll <tripod(at)oneimage.com> |
| Subject: | Differences of empennage 6A vs 9A |
Listers,
What are the differences between the empennage of the 6 vs the 9. Are they
interchangeable?
BFK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Houg <thoug(at)ATTGLOBAL.NET> |
| Subject: | Differences of empennage 6A vs 9A |
>Listers,
>
>What are the differences between the empennage of the 6 vs the 9. Are they
>interchangeable?
>
>BFK
Bruce,
The empennage of the 9A and 6A are not interchangeable. The horizontal
stabilizer of the -9 is a constant chord design, while the -6 is a tapered
chord being narrower at the tip. As such, there are no common parts in the
HS or elevators. The vertical stabilizer is identical and shares parts
between the -6 and -9, however the rudder of the -9 is significantly
larger. The -9 rudder is several inches taller (extending further above the
VS) and several inches longer providing much more rudder control surface
for effectiveness at the slower speeds that the -9 will fly at. Of course
all of the -9 parts (with the exception of the VS ribs) are match drilled
to make assembly much easier. Because the VS parts are common, the ribs
were not match drilled to the skin. It wasn't until I got to the VS that I
had to actually THINK about where to drill a hole!
Todd Houg
RV-9A Empennage - Fiberglass work - Ugh!
St. Francis, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: yeller pages |
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 12/10/00 6:31:13 AM Pacific Standard Time,
ENewton57(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< <>
Actually you got it backwards. The 9A is not rated for aerobatics and the
6A
is. >>
Eric-
Isn't that what he said?????
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Differences of empennage 6A vs 9A |
They are completely different. The 9A has a constant chord. Its a simple
rectangle. The 6A
tapers toward the Horizontal Stab tips. They are not interchangeable without
a lot of work.
Steve Hurlbut
Comox, BC
shurlbut(at)island.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Knoll <tripod(at)oneimage.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2000 10:49 AM
Subject: RV-List: Differences of empennage 6A vs 9A
>
> Listers,
>
> What are the differences between the empennage of the 6 vs the 9. Are they
> interchangeable?
>
> BFK
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan & Patty Krueger <pndkrueg(at)gulfsurf.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Prime |
>
> Also, A/S catalog says that the "A' port is input, and "P" port is outlet.
> Mine has no such markings....instead has "1" and "2".
A/S told me that "2" was in and "1" was out.
I mounted mine with a two hole conduit clamp - just large enough that I could
put some thin rubber between the clamp and solenoid for protection. Also rested
it on a small piece of angle to keep the valve from sliding down.
Dan Krueger
Panel & wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 12V power sources |
"Stephen J. Soule" wrote:
>
>
> If it were used to trickle charge the battery, what could I rig up to avoid
> overcharging the battery?
>
snips
Salvaging a celphone charger for this implies cheap (a good thing, to
me). Smart chargers imply expensive. Rig an a/c outlet so the charger
comes on when your shop lights come on. If the battery says it's charged
(12-14v without the charger) & you aren't going to use it soon,
disconnect the charger until next use, or charge it again for a few
hours after a few weeks.
Don't forget to check the no-load voltage output of the charger. It
should be around 12-15 volts when hooked to a fully charged 12v battery.
If you are really uncertain about all this, just spring for the $50 or
so for a small bench power supply. It won't power your entire panel at
once, but you can test individual instruments with it.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Bow, Side Rail Alignment |
Stuart:
I'm assuming that you're referring to the rollover bar - if you are, I had
exactly the same problem. In the end Van's said that if it could not be
shimmed acceptably, they would pay to have it rewelded. Since I couldn't
find anyone local who wanted to tackle the job, I made a box & sent it back
to Van's. Scott R. arranged for Phil Duyck in the prototype shop to reweld
it according to my photographs and written description. They turned it
around in a couple of days. The fit is now 95% good. A little persuasion in
a vise should get the flange to fit perfectly now. I'll know later today
when I evert the fuselage - right now it's upside down after the landing
gear fitting.
I'd also suggets (per Van's) checking your QB fuselage width - some of them
have come out a little wide & that's what may be affecting the roll bar fit.
I discovered this too late to do anything - it also may affect the fit of
the F821forward top skin. Becase of this, my edge distance is marginal at
the aftmost holes along the longerons.
Good luck,
Phil Smith, 80691
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
Don't forget the fact that the fuselage is longer on the 9A and the landing
gear is alot different on the 9A
Douglas G. Murray
Southern Alberta
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2000 10:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6A or 9A
>
> ENewton57(at)AOL.COM wrote:
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 12/10/00 8:05:54 AM Central Standard Time,
> > tdale4(at)email.msn.com writes:
> >
> > < > looked at Van's homepage but the both look so similar. I guess the 9A
is
> > better if you don't plan on doing aerobatics????? It seems easier to
build,
> > almost as fast with a smaller engine, and a little larger inside. Any
> > opinions would be greatly appreciated. >>
> >
> > Actually you got it backwards. The 9A is not rated for aerobatics and
the 6A
> > is.
> >
> > In theory, the 6A is a little faster than the 9A however recent,
unofficial
> > tests have proven the 9A similarly configered is about as fast as the
6A.
> > (the 9A had a MT tri-blade prop and the 6A didn't).
> >
> > The 9A is definitely easier (and faster) to build. The parts are all
> > prepunched and its basically just gets put together. The 6A wings and
> > empennage is pre-punched but the fuselage is not and must be drilled.
Also,
> > the 6 can be built as a taildragger if you want.
> >
> > It gets down to what your flying preferences are. If want a good
> > cross-country machine and plan on going into short fields the 9A is the
plane
> > for you. If you want to do recreational aerobatics, the 6A (or 6) is
the way
> > to go.
> >
> > Hope this helps,
> > Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
> > RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage)
> >
>
> In additioon I well add that the 9A has a longer wing with different
> airfoil. This wing well allow the 9A to fly slower which means that
> you can also land at a slower speed.
>
> Jerry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tool for AMP connectors on Whelan strobes |
> I'm installing the power supply and wiring for my Whelan strobe
> system. I've got the one with the big single power supply. The kit
> from Vans comes with a bunch of AMPCPS-3 connectors. I need to know
> what kind of tool I need to put the pins on the wires.
>
> Looking at the Aeroelectric Connection web site, I see that Bob sells
> a tool that might be what I need. Is his BCT-1 tool the one I should
> be buying? I don't have any decent crimping tools now, so I need to
> get whichever tool(s) I will need to finish this project. I think a
> combination of the BCT-1 and the RCT-1 might do everything except the
> battery cables. Comments?
Kevin,
Whelen uses the AMP Mate-N-Lok series connectors with .082" pins. Yes, Bob's
BCT-1 will do the trick. It should also work on Molex brand connectors which
crimp the same way but which are not compatible with the Mate-N-Lock
connectors or pins at all. You will likely encouter, or want to use, Molex
connectors elsewhere in the plane.
You might as well get his RCT-1 and RCT-2 while you're at it since you'll
probably need to do your own antenna leads. And while your at it you might
as well buy some RG400 coax for your antennas. And while your at it you
might as well pick up a few...
Randy Lervold
RV-8, N558RL, painting, then final wiring & systems hook-up
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
From archives:
Cabin noise can be significantly reduces by adding a floor over the
stiffeners, with closed cell foam (available frome Spruce & Speciallty)
between the stiffeners. Also, if you have an exhaust system with
straight
pipes, find a way to point them down. I think (but am not sure) that
Veterman
now has curved extensions for his straight pipe system. Call him for
advice.
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
For those who have installed a cabin floor which would raise your heels
toward rudder & brake pedals--does that require adjusting the height of
the pedals? Also is anyone using the curved pipe extensions?
Dave Ford RV6 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | earl fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 24v pitot heater |
You are correct unless the democrats get hold ohm's and repeal it.
Earl RV4
Ed Anderson wrote:
>
>
> Well here goes my 0.02, hoping it has not been too many years.
>
> The pitot heating is accomplished by a resistive element placed in the
> pitot tube. The resistance stays essentially the same (actually there is
> probably some small change as the temperature increases) regardless of the
> voltage applied. Therefore if 12V is applied to a resistive element
> designed to produce X watts of power at 24 volts it will produce 1/4X watts
> at 12Volts. This is from the basic relationship of I=E/R or current
> Voltage/Resistance. So it follows that if the Voltage is halved from 24 to
> 12 volts and the resistance remains the same the current flow with 12 volts
> will also be 1/2 of the current with 24 volts.. Since one expression of
> electrical Power =E*I, then with 1/2 the voltage applied (i.e 12Volts vice
> 24 Volts) and 1/2 the current flowing due to the reduced voltage, the power
> will actually be 1/4 the value at 12Volts compared to 24Volts.
> You get the same results with the equivalent equation of Power = I
2*R
>
> Practical example. Assuming resistance of 10 ohms. Then at 24 Volts, I
> 24/10 or 2.4 amps. If you apply 12 volts, then I (current) =12/10 or 1.2
> amps (1/2 the I value at 24 volts). So for power at 24 volts, P=I*E
> 24*2.4
> 57.6 watts. At 12 Volts, P=12/1.2 = 14.4 Watts. 57.6/4 = 14.4 showing that
> the power at 12 volts is 1/4 that of the value generated with 24 volts.
>
> So, I think with that much less than the designed powered using 12 volts you
> face the serious risk that the pitot tube would not generate sufficient heat
> to keep the ice off (all depends on the environmental conditions of course)
>
> Ed Anderson
>
> then the power will
>
> >
> > >
> > > I know very little about electrical so here is the question....I have
> > > Bob's
> > > Book.....
> > >
> > > I just bought a new surplus Heated pitot tube, AN5812-1 "L" shaped. The
> > > catch is that it is 24 volts. I hooked it up to my 12 volt 15amp power
> > > supply to see what would happen. The results were 225 degrees were
> > > produced
> > > at the tip and it showed 3 amps of current. I left it on for about 10
> > > minutes and it didn't blow the 5 amp CB I put in line.
> > > So the question is, Am I looking for trouble running this in a 12 volt
> > > system or will it only put out a lower amount of heat. It seems like the
> > > 225
> > > degrees would be adequate for deicing.
> > >
> > > Thank You,
> > > Ed Perry
> > > RV8QB 180/CS Heated Pitot?
> > >
> > > Ed,
> > > If it really is a 24 volt unit, then at 12 volts it will draw about half
> > > the current, and since the voltage is half as well, it will consume
> > > about 1/4 the power. The formula is
> > >
> > > W = (Voltage squared) divided by Resistance
> > >
> > > where W is the power in watts. The resistance is fixed by the design.
> > > So you can see that at half the voltage, the power is one quarter.
> > >
> > > The temperature may be 225 degrees, but with the airflow at a very low
> > > temperature, you need a lot of power to melt the ice. So I think your
> > > 24V unit will not work for you at 12 volts.
> > >
> > > Gordon Robertson
> > > RV8 sb wings
> >
> > Listers,
> > I'm afraid that Gordon has this backwards. The total watts used is
> > constant. Therefore using half the voltage (12 versus 24) the amperage
> will
> > double to obtain the same wattage. George is correct that this 24 volt
> > heater will work with 12 volts. It simply uses twice the current. The only
> > advantage to the 24 volt system is that the supply and ground wires can be
> > of a smaller gauge (slightly lighter) wire.
> > Charlie Kuss
> > RV-8A finishing wings and starting fuselage
> > Boca Raton, Fl.
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Begnaud" <Shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming and Auto gas date.) |
Greg,
This is an interesting post.
My wife and I have put 530 hours on our kitfox over the last year and a
half, burning autogas dispensed at our local airport. I once talked to the
fuel delivery driver and he told me that the "mogas" delivered to our
airport was the same stuff he delivered to the local Phillips 66 gas station
for autos.
I did not ask about filtering etc but I will next time I see him.
I would like to mention that for the last 400 hours or so, I have NEVER seen
even the slightest sign of debris or water in the fuel test I do before
flying. I did occasionally see some small debris in the early hours of the
plane but I believe this came from the kreem coated fiberglass tanks of the
kitfox, not from the fuel.
There are many other mogas users at our airport and I have never heard of
anyone having any contamination in their fuel.
I understand that this situation is different from one where the pilot gets
his fuel from the auto gas station, but it does at least provide some
evidence that the fuel is clean when coming off the truck.
Of course, your fuel distributor may not keep his tank trucks as clean.
Regards,
Cliff
RV9A (N782PC)
empennage,
Erie, CO
>
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> In regards to the other posts on this subject I thought I would weigh
> in. I pump about 1000 gals of 100LL each summer weekend, and felt that
some
> quality control issues were being overlooked with auto gas. Consider that
> your average gas station could care less about water, however to maintain
a
> dealership we not only have to drain all sumps of water daily, but also
> maintain a log of such. The average gas station has no such sumps on
their
> tanks. Just ask them to pay for your fuel dry when your gas line freezes
> this winter to find out how much they care about water in their fuel. In
> this light it sounds as if the water separating funnel is a novel idea.
> The other problem with auto gas is foreign matter in the tank. Auto
> fuel is not filtered from the semi, and probably only marginally at the
> pump. Avgas is filtered as it comes off of the semi and goes into the
tank,
> and again when pumped into the truck, and a third time as it is placed in
> the wing. Our filters are also changed every six months whether they
need
> it or not. Again we must chart quality control on the amount of sediment
> that is present at the sumping of all tanks. YOU become that quality
> control agent when using auto gas. A close knit cloth would probably
catch
> most if not all of the sediment that I have seen, however there again our
> tanks are sumped daily. Just look at the bottom of your gas can to see
the
> problem. It only takes one bit of gunk to clog a carburetor jet.
> I am not trying to sell avgas by any means, but am genuinely
interested
> in your engine maintaining an adequate supply of fuel to run on.
Scrutinize
> what you pour into your tanks....your life may depend on it.
>
> Just my .02 worth.
>
> Greg
> RV-9A emp
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | earl fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 24v pitot heater |
Guess I had a senior moment. I meant to say Ohm's Law
Earl
earl fortner wrote:
>
>
> You are correct unless the democrats get hold ohm's and repeal it.
> Earl RV4
>
> Ed Anderson wrote:
> >
> >
> > Well here goes my 0.02, hoping it has not been too many years.
> >
> > The pitot heating is accomplished by a resistive element placed in the
> > pitot tube. The resistance stays essentially the same (actually there is
> > probably some small change as the temperature increases) regardless of the
> > voltage applied. Therefore if 12V is applied to a resistive element
> > designed to produce X watts of power at 24 volts it will produce 1/4X watts
> > at 12Volts. This is from the basic relationship of I=E/R or current
> > Voltage/Resistance. So it follows that if the Voltage is halved from 24 to
> > 12 volts and the resistance remains the same the current flow with 12 volts
> > will also be 1/2 of the current with 24 volts.. Since one expression of
> > electrical Power =E*I, then with 1/2 the voltage applied (i.e 12Volts vice
> > 24 Volts) and 1/2 the current flowing due to the reduced voltage, the power
> > will actually be 1/4 the value at 12Volts compared to 24Volts.
> > You get the same results with the equivalent equation of Power = I
2*R
> >
> > Practical example. Assuming resistance of 10 ohms. Then at 24 Volts, I
> > 24/10 or 2.4 amps. If you apply 12 volts, then I (current) =12/10 or 1.2
> > amps (1/2 the I value at 24 volts). So for power at 24 volts, P=I*E
> > 24*2.4
> > 57.6 watts. At 12 Volts, P=12/1.2 = 14.4 Watts. 57.6/4 = 14.4 showing that
> > the power at 12 volts is 1/4 that of the value generated with 24 volts.
> >
> > So, I think with that much less than the designed powered using 12 volts you
> > face the serious risk that the pitot tube would not generate sufficient heat
> > to keep the ice off (all depends on the environmental conditions of course)
> >
> > Ed Anderson
> >
> > then the power will
> >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I know very little about electrical so here is the question....I have
> > > > Bob's
> > > > Book.....
> > > >
> > > > I just bought a new surplus Heated pitot tube, AN5812-1 "L" shaped. The
> > > > catch is that it is 24 volts. I hooked it up to my 12 volt 15amp power
> > > > supply to see what would happen. The results were 225 degrees were
> > > > produced
> > > > at the tip and it showed 3 amps of current. I left it on for about 10
> > > > minutes and it didn't blow the 5 amp CB I put in line.
> > > > So the question is, Am I looking for trouble running this in a 12 volt
> > > > system or will it only put out a lower amount of heat. It seems like the
> > > > 225
> > > > degrees would be adequate for deicing.
> > > >
> > > > Thank You,
> > > > Ed Perry
> > > > RV8QB 180/CS Heated Pitot?
> > > >
> > > > Ed,
> > > > If it really is a 24 volt unit, then at 12 volts it will draw about half
> > > > the current, and since the voltage is half as well, it will consume
> > > > about 1/4 the power. The formula is
> > > >
> > > > W = (Voltage squared) divided by Resistance
> > > >
> > > > where W is the power in watts. The resistance is fixed by the design.
> > > > So you can see that at half the voltage, the power is one quarter.
> > > >
> > > > The temperature may be 225 degrees, but with the airflow at a very low
> > > > temperature, you need a lot of power to melt the ice. So I think your
> > > > 24V unit will not work for you at 12 volts.
> > > >
> > > > Gordon Robertson
> > > > RV8 sb wings
> > >
> > > Listers,
> > > I'm afraid that Gordon has this backwards. The total watts used is
> > > constant. Therefore using half the voltage (12 versus 24) the amperage
> > will
> > > double to obtain the same wattage. George is correct that this 24 volt
> > > heater will work with 12 volts. It simply uses twice the current. The only
> > > advantage to the 24 volt system is that the supply and ground wires can be
> > > of a smaller gauge (slightly lighter) wire.
> > > Charlie Kuss
> > > RV-8A finishing wings and starting fuselage
> > > Boca Raton, Fl.
> > >
> > >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
Thanks to Van's invitation at the homecoming I had the opportunity to spent
an hour or so with him in the 9A during a photo shoot for the 2001 calendar
and here are some of my impressions. At the time I was not up to speed on
the specs or performance figures for it so wasn't sure just what to expect.
On getting seated on the right side the extra head room and great visibility
over the cowl was really noticeable and gave the feeling of more room in the
cockpit. Van asked if I would like to taxi it and do the take-off (you
betcha), taxiing is so easy and with the large rudder brakes are only
needed to do sharp turns.
On the take-off roll I let it run a bit and I noticed Van looking over as
much as to say "what are you waiting for" but was still off sooner than my
RV 6. Once in the air surprises came one after another, the excellent rate
of climb, a nice feel to the controls that are not as sensitive as my 6 but
give you a comfortable relaxed feeling. I was impressed with Vans engine
handling as he was the first one to reach to reduce from take-off power.
The next surprise was the lack of vibration, there was practically none so
much so I was tempted to see if I could stand a coin on edge on the visor
over the instrument panel. This may be a bit of an exaggeration but I have
never been in a piston powered aircraft that ran this smooth. Have no real
answer for this but it has to be either the engine or propeller or a
combination of both. It is equipped with 160 HP 0320 turning a MT composite
CS three blade prop.
Next Van had a chance to demonstrate some of it's flight characteristics
while we waited for the photo aircraft and other RV's to form up. The stall
speed is as advertised at 44 MPH in straight and level with no tendency to
roll. You can enter the stall with the ball centered then continue to hold
the stick all the way back, as it stalls the nose drops then comes back up
again and drops again. Will continue this as long as the stick is held all
the way back. I don't recall the lost height in a stall with immediate
recovery but it was minimal.
Now it was time to join up with the photo aircraft with Van demonstrating
his formation ability in a half hour of intense formation flying for the
photos which I am sure we will see in the new calendar. Then it was back to
the Aurora airport and a chance to do a couple of more circuits. Now I could
see why Van was looking over at me on the first take-off as getting a bit
more aggressive we were airborne by the time the throttle was wide open.
In it's category this is truly a remarkable aircraft with a stall speed
getting close to some of the early ones such as the Aeronca and Piper J3
coupled with a cruise of 160 plus at 65-70%. As Jerry Springer has mentioned
this stall speed means a slower landing speed which in the event of a forced
landing could make the difference.
All in all it seems to be a much less demanding aircraft to fly, this along
with being pre-punched it seems to me it is by far the best choice for a
first time builder and especially if the builder is a low time pilot, The
only thing you are giving up is aerobatics.
Looking forward to flying it again.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. Cutting canopy on the 6A
-----Original Message-----
From: tdale4 <tdale4(at)email.msn.com>
Date: Sunday, December 10, 2000 6:32 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV6A or 9A
>
>Can anyone tell me the main differences between the RV6A and the RV9A? I've
>looked at Van's homepage but the both look so similar. I guess the 9A is
>better if you don't plan on doing aerobatics????? It seems easier to build,
>almost as fast with a smaller engine, and a little larger inside. Any
>opinions would be greatly appreciated.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
> The only thing you are giving up is aerobatics.
Only?????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Prime |
A large Adel clamp will work fine.
John Danielson
Engine installation and finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mister Murphy" <mister_murphy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Mogas and Avgas info (Very Long) |
Listers,
I've been lurking for sometime but feel that I may need to give some insight
here. This is a long email, so if you don't want it delete it. I'm just
trying to answer other peoples questions. Since I work for a small oil
company in North Carolina, let me try to answer some of the peoples
questions about the different items below. Also the 150's and 172's that
I've flown and have been around are STC'd for mogas. So I have atad of
experiece as a pilot here too.
Snip
>I did not ask about filtering etc but I will next time I see him.
>I understand that this situation is different from one where the pilot gets
>his fuel from the auto gas station, but it does at least provide some
>evidence that the fuel is clean when coming off the truck.
>Of course, your fuel distributor may not keep his tank trucks as clean.
>Regards,
>Cliff
Snip
Loading:
Upon arrival at terminal, driver connects bonding cable, vapor recovery,
then the driver takes a drain hose to each compartment to drain any residue
from the preceding load. After draining the residue (some drivers/companies
do not do this which may leave some residue in the tank), the driver "cards
in" (identifies himself to the computer), then attaches the loading arms to
the trailer which is bottom loaded. Then he just plugs in the gallons of
each product he wants, and then he waits. After loading he disconnects
everything in reverse order, then he goes is bill or lading and goes to his
destination. Keep in mind everyone that when the gas comes up the pipeline
it is sent up in the thousands of gallons, between the gas and the next
product is a set amount of water, YES WATER. The water is there to show that
one pruduct has ended, and another product will be behind the X gallons of
water. Also, one terminal may have different brands. This is because of
using a base stock, and when a truck wants shell for instance, he puts a
shell product code in the computer that gives him the base plus the
additives for shell. Some terminals filter the product that goes into their
tanks, and most all have a filter filter(its actuallly more than a screen)
before the meter.
Unloading:
Upon arrival and parking, the driver then identifies the tanks he will
unload into (product, how many gallons is already in the tank). Then the
driver connects his vapor recovery, then his "drop" or unloading hose to the
tank, then the tanker and unloads. After unloading it is just the reverse.
Most tankers do not have filters or screens, unless they have a pump on the
truck.
The retail location (gas station)
Most locations have underground tanks, with a (ussually, not
always)submerged pump similer to a regular well pump. The pump is generally
6-18 inches from the bottom of the tank to allow for trash and sediment to
settle to the bottom and not be a problem. Also, the submerged pumps have a
screen that keeps out larger sediment. At the curb is usually a dispenser,
not a pump, that has two filters, the first is a water trap filter that
catches any water that may be in the gas, next is a particle filter, similar
to an oil filter, that filters out any small particles. Also, about 95% of
the retail locations have a computerized read out system that not only
measures the level of gas, but the temp, as well as the water level. YES I
SAID WATER LEVEL. With a large tank, 2000 gal + it is impossible to keep
100% of the water out due to many factors. Condensation, the fact that on
occasion the truck may recive a large amount of water in the gas it loaded
at the terminal, etc.
Avgas
I have very limited experience with Avgas, but this is how what I know about
avgas. Avgas can not usually be sent by pipe line because it is leaded and
will contaminate the products that may follow it. The only avgas that is
loaded from the terminals that I'm familier with (greensboro north carolina)
is brought in by train, then pumped into a storage tank. For a tanker to be
loaded with avgas, the prior load must have been avgas, or generally it is
required to be cleaned. Loading is similar to mogas, except that they may
have a different filter. Read different not neccesarily better. Unloading is
similar, with the exception that I have seen a filter in the what is called
the riser 9the pipe that comes from the underground tank to the top of the
ground that the tankers hose attaches too). Due to the many differences at
FBOs I want attempt to describe what goes on after arrival.
Things to consider:
use commen sense.
Who are you buying from? Brands aside, you can get great gas from an
independant store, and bad gas from a brand and vice versa.
Have you had problems there before? If so, you may want to find somewhere
else, but keep in mind that even with the best percations to keep water and
trash out of the gas something may happen. It's murphy's law, as well as
simple statistics
Also, some companies will not sell mogas for use in aircraft because they do
not want the liability on them.
There may be additional taxes on mogas in your area, such as highway use
tax. If you can prove you use it "off highway" to the tax guys, they may
refund it. Just off the top of my head in NC I believe the tax is 0.4175 per
gallon but don't hold me to it.
If you have questions about a station or FBOs product, make a point to ask
them about it.
There are different procedures and rules/laws from place to place, company
to company, station to station, FBO to FBO. So beware.
Erik
North Carolina,
RV-6 finishing fiberglass on empenage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Hobenshield <edhob(at)kermode.net> |
>
>In it's category this is truly a remarkable aircraft with a stall speed
>getting close to some of the early ones such as the Aeronca and Piper J3
>coupled with a cruise of 160 plus at 65-70%. As Jerry Springer has mentioned
>this stall speed means a slower landing speed which in the event of a forced
>landing could make the difference.
>
>All in all it seems to be a much less demanding aircraft to fly, this along
>with being pre-punched it seems to me it is by far the best choice for a
>first time builder and especially if the builder is a low time pilot, The
>only thing you are giving up is aerobatics.
>
>Looking forward to flying it again.
>
>Eustace Bowhay
Gee ! I simply must get the new shop built soon !! This sounds like
a made in Heaven for me.
Ed H.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Hobenshield <edhob(at)kermode.net> |
| Subject: | Re: canadian rv4 |
>
>I looked it up recently and I recall it went for $43,399 so some such
>number.
Was that $ US ?
I missed the bid as of a funeral. Maybe a blessing. 43 thou USA
would be some 65 $ Can. I think?
God I'm poor!
Ed H.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Routing Mixture Cable |
I tried right of the battery box, but cables Vans sell seem a little short.
So I went just below battery box on right hand corner.
John Danielson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clayfly(at)libertybay.com |
| Subject: | mister_murphy(at)hotmail.com |
Erik,
Thanks for the info on gas. Where in N.C. do you live? I'm planning to move to
a little town in the far western part of N.C --- (Murphy, N.C.) sometime next
summer. How far are you from that neck of the woods?
Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, 50+ hours
Indiana
> ** Original Subject: RV-List: Mogas and Avgas info (Very Long)
> ** Original Sender: "Mister Murphy"
> ** Original Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 18:13:24 -0800
> ** Original Message follows...
>
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I've been lurking for sometime but feel that I may need to give some insight
> here. This is a long email, so if you don't want it delete it. I'm just
> trying to answer other peoples questions. Since I work for a small oil
> company in North Carolina, let me try to answer some of the peoples
> questions about the different items below. Also the 150's and 172's that
> I've flown and have been around are STC'd for mogas. So I have atad of
> experiece as a pilot here too.
>
> Snip
> >I did not ask about filtering etc but I will next time I see him.
> >I understand that this situation is different from one where the pilot gets
> >his fuel from the auto gas station, but it does at least provide some
> >evidence that the fuel is clean when coming off the truck.
> >Of course, your fuel distributor may not keep his tank trucks as clean.
> >Regards,
> >Cliff
> Snip
>
> Loading:
>
> Upon arrival at terminal, driver connects bonding cable, vapor recovery,
> then the driver takes a drain hose to each compartment to drain any residue
> from the preceding load. After draining the residue (some drivers/companies
> do not do this which may leave some residue in the tank), the driver "cards
> in" (identifies himself to the computer), then attaches the loading arms to
> the trailer which is bottom loaded. Then he just plugs in the gallons of
> each product he wants, and then he waits. After loading he disconnects
> everything in reverse order, then he goes is bill or lading and goes to his
> destination. Keep in mind everyone that when the gas comes up the pipeline
> it is sent up in the thousands of gallons, between the gas and the next
> product is a set amount of water, YES WATER. The water is there to show that
> one pruduct has ended, and another product will be behind the X gallons of
> water. Also, one terminal may have different brands. This is because of
> using a base stock, and when a truck wants shell for instance, he puts a
> shell product code in the computer that gives him the base plus the
> additives for shell. Some terminals filter the product that goes into their
> tanks, and most all have a filter filter(its actuallly more than a screen)
> before the meter.
>
> Unloading:
>
> Upon arrival and parking, the driver then identifies the tanks he will
> unload into (product, how many gallons is already in the tank). Then the
> driver connects his vapor recovery, then his "drop" or unloading hose to the
> tank, then the tanker and unloads. After unloading it is just the reverse.
> Most tankers do not have filters or screens, unless they have a pump on the
> truck.
>
> The retail location (gas station)
>
> Most locations have underground tanks, with a (ussually, not
> always)submerged pump similer to a regular well pump. The pump is generally
> 6-18 inches from the bottom of the tank to allow for trash and sediment to
> settle to the bottom and not be a problem. Also, the submerged pumps have a
> screen that keeps out larger sediment. At the curb is usually a dispenser,
> not a pump, that has two filters, the first is a water trap filter that
> catches any water that may be in the gas, next is a particle filter, similar
> to an oil filter, that filters out any small particles. Also, about 95% of
> the retail locations have a computerized read out system that not only
> measures the level of gas, but the temp, as well as the water level. YES I
> SAID WATER LEVEL. With a large tank, 2000 gal + it is impossible to keep
> 100% of the water out due to many factors. Condensation, the fact that on
> occasion the truck may recive a large amount of water in the gas it loaded
> at the terminal, etc.
>
> Avgas
>
> I have very limited experience with Avgas, but this is how what I know about
> avgas. Avgas can not usually be sent by pipe line because it is leaded and
> will contaminate the products that may follow it. The only avgas that is
> loaded from the terminals that I'm familier with (greensboro north carolina)
> is brought in by train, then pumped into a storage tank. For a tanker to be
> loaded with avgas, the prior load must have been avgas, or generally it is
> required to be cleaned. Loading is similar to mogas, except that they may
> have a different filter. Read different not neccesarily better. Unloading is
> similar, with the exception that I have seen a filter in the what is called
> the riser 9the pipe that comes from the underground tank to the top of the
> ground that the tankers hose attaches too). Due to the many differences at
> FBOs I want attempt to describe what goes on after arrival.
>
> Things to consider:
>
> use commen sense.
>
> Who are you buying from? Brands aside, you can get great gas from an
> independant store, and bad gas from a brand and vice versa.
>
> Have you had problems there before? If so, you may want to find somewhere
> else, but keep in mind that even with the best percations to keep water and
> trash out of the gas something may happen. It's murphy's law, as well as
> simple statistics
>
> Also, some companies will not sell mogas for use in aircraft because they do
> not want the liability on them.
>
> There may be additional taxes on mogas in your area, such as highway use
> tax. If you can prove you use it "off highway" to the tax guys, they may
> refund it. Just off the top of my head in NC I believe the tax is 0.4175 per
> gallon but don't hold me to it.
>
> If you have questions about a station or FBOs product, make a point to ask
> them about it.
>
> There are different procedures and rules/laws from place to place, company
> to company, station to station, FBO to FBO. So beware.
>
>
> Erik
> North Carolina,
> RV-6 finishing fiberglass on empenage
>
>
>
>
>
>** --------- End Original Message ----------- **
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mister Murphy" <mister_murphy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: mister_murphy(at)hotmail.com |
Clay
I live in Mt Airy North Carolina, which is in the north western part of NC
at the Va line....What part of Indiana are you in? I've got to go to
Cincinnati in a couple of weeks, and I've never seen a -4 in person..
Erik
RV-6 empanage
North Carolina
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
From the 23rd to the 31st I will be in Denver visiting my sister. I intend
to spend 3 of those days in Winter Park snowboarding, but I'm sure the rest
of them will be spent looking for something to do. I'd love to see any
projects, or aircraft in the area whose owners don't mind.
Bill
-4 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
| Subject: | Re: canadian rv4 |
No that is Canadian dollars. About $28000 USD.
Not a bad deal but the engine had no logs and the aircraft was sold as is
where is.
Steve Hurlbut
Comox, BC
shurlbut(at)island.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Hobenshield <edhob(at)kermode.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2000 4:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: canadian rv4
>
> >
> >I looked it up recently and I recall it went for $43,399 so some such
> >number.
>
> Was that $ US ?
>
> I missed the bid as of a funeral. Maybe a blessing. 43 thou USA
> would be some 65 $ Can. I think?
>
> God I'm poor!
>
> Ed H.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
> For those who have installed a cabin floor which would raise your heels
> toward rudder & brake pedals--does that require adjusting the height of
> the pedals? Also is anyone using the curved pipe extensions?
I did put in a "raised" floor (foam between the stiffeners and .032 over the
top), and I did raise the rudder pedals, by about an inch. However if I
didn't have such big feet I migh'tve left them in the normal place. I also
moved them forward about 3/4" which is more comfortable for me. Basically I
spent some time custom fitting the pedals to fit ME. Even if I hadn't put in
the raised floor I still would've custom fit it as necessary to fit my
build. It's ME I built the plane for, after all! :-)
As for the curved pipe extensions -- I'm using them but only because I had
some fitting problems with the pipes -- in order to make them clear both the
cowl and the bottom of the firewall I had to rotate them a bit, but a side
effect of this is that the turndowns were "pigeon-toed". At the same time
Larry told me about his new, shallower turndown extensions, so I cut my
turndowns off and replaced them with the extensions, oriented the proper
direction. The turndowns aren't as sharp as the originals were, so there's
less drag (pipe out in the wind) and a little more thrust, in theory anyway.
Can't say what it did for the noise/vibration -- probably not much different
there. If I remember correctly, Larry said he's going with the shallower
turndowns standard in current systems.
Mine are still clamped on with hose clamps but I'll get them welded one of
these days.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> |
| Subject: | Infinity Grips/Facet fuel pump |
-----Original Message-----
From: meketa [mailto:acgm(at)gvtc.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2000 12:50 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Infinity Grips/Facet fuel pump
Douglas
You mention that the breaker pops when you turn on the master. Is the
fuel pump switch on at this time. If not the problem is at\or before the
switch. Unplug or cut the input wire for the fuel pump to the stick grip
harness. If the problem goes away it is in the stick or grip. If the
breaker still pops there is a probable short or misswire between the
breaker and cut\disconnect. If it only pops when the fuel pump switch is
on the problem is at or after the switch. Unplug the pump or the output
from the stick (start at the easiest place to access) and try to isolate
the problem. Having a 8 amp switch is most likely not the problem. I
would suspect a wiring problem. We would need more info to help. Is this
a new problem, are you just now smoke testing the system or have you
been flying, is the fuel pump switch off\on , how is the circuit
designed, etc.
I am installing Infinity grips on my 8 project and plan on installing
a relay in the circuit. I did not like the small gauge wire and small
switch to control the fuel pump current. What have other Infinity users
done??
George Meketa
RV8- moving project to the airport tomorrow
Gardner, Douglas (GA01) wrote:
>
>
> I'm tripping the 5 amp CB fuel boost pump when switching on the master
> switch. The Van's wiring
> kit shows a 5 amp CB for the boost pump, and the Infinity grip's switch is
> rated at 8 amps.
>
> I have also wired in a red led in my panel to indicate the boost pump's on
> state.
>
> I can't figure this one out. Any ideas ??
>
> Thanks,
>
> Doug Gardner -8A FWF #80717
> 0-360/CS palm Harbor Fla
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Kunkel <rvator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Stocking Stuffers |
Hello Everyone,
Our web site is taking a little more time than
originally thought, so with apologies to Matt for
using his bandwidth, we're offering the following
stocking stuffers through Dec. 20th. All the drill
bits are first tier, NAS 907 135 degree split
point, production quality bits manufactured in the
U.S.
Jobbers Length HSS
#40 - $7.50/Dz.
#30 - $7.50/Dz.
#21 - $10.00/Dz.
Jobbers Length M42 Cobalt
#40 - $10.00/Dz.
#30 - $10.00/Dz.
#21 - $15.00/Dz.
1/4 - $4.00/2
6" HSS
#40 - $9.00/6
#30 - $10.00/6
#21 - $10.00/6
12" HSS
#40 - $12.00/6
#30 - $12.00/6
#10 - $12.00/4
1/4 - $12.00/4
HSS Threaded Drill Bits (Assorted Lengths)
#40 - $22.00/Dz.
#30 - $22.00/Dz.
Squeezer Yokes (NEW)
1.5" Std. Yoke - $70.00
2.5" Std. Yoke - $95.00
2.5" Thin Nose Yoke - $105.00
3" Std. Yoke - $105.00
Longeron Yoke - $115.00
Again, with apologies to Matt, if we can help you
pls. contact us off-list. Add $4.00 for shipping &
handling by Priority Mail.
Blue Skies!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Prime |
Listers - I did something different on my electric primer that I haven't
seen before. I installed two 10 - 32 machine screws through a bracket and
into the bottom of the primer solinoid. It looks like an easy installation
and very clean but I have been wondering why no one else mentions this
method.
Douglas G. Murray RV-6 C-GRPA
Southern Alberta Priming & painting
----- Original Message -----
From: <JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2000 5:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric Prime
>
> A large Adel clamp will work fine.
>
> John Danielson
> Engine installation and finishing kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N286RV flies!! |
Carey,
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Painting soon)
Niantic, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP Spray Gunds from Harbor Freight |
Lucky, the Harbor Frieght HVLP gun you mention sounds like the one I have.
The body of the gun is green in color. HF changes their partnumbers with
every catalog, so the number is not much help. The gun is fine for priming
work, just keep it cleaned out with MEK if your're using epoxy primers. Wear
a good respirator and heavy neoprene gloves while cleaning, MEK is dangerous
stuff. Andy Johnson, Drilling fuse skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stocking Stuffers |
12/11/2000 10:12:40
Dremmel came out with a 90 degree drive attachment.......fantastic X=mas
stocking stuffer. About 24 dollars. Also Dremmel has a 2 foot flex drive
attachment (was last years stocking stuffer) . Ethically, I must confess
that I razored the Dremmel box open and snuck the 90 degree attachment out
of the wrapped Christmas present. I needed it at the hanger...I felt like
the Grinch for about 3 minutes......
________________________________________________________________________________
12/11/2000 10:35:53
A real UNIBIT to cut your entry holes and a dremmel is all that is needed.
Nibblers are nice but we did many RV's with this approach, fast, cheap ant
you are off to the next task.....
Gordon Robertson (at)matronics.com on 12/10/2000 01:07:07
AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Wing lights
From: "Cliff Begnaud" <Shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com>
Subject: RV-List: Nibbler
I'm planning for the leading edge wing light in my -9. A hole has to be
cut
in the wing leading edge and I'm assuming that this is done with a
nibbler.
I would greatly appreciate hearing from someone who has done this.
Exactly
which tool should I purchase for this job?
Thanks,
Cliff
RV9A (N782PC -reserved)
Empennage, wing arrives near christmas
Cliff --
I used a 2" cut-off disk in a die grinder. Worked great, but be
careful. It is very aggressive.
ps. The die grinder is one of the most useful tools I own. And it was
only $20.
Gordon Robertson
RV8 sb wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas E. Bostard" <dougacft(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 12/10/00 |
Gossip/and fact: I believe it's intended more as a trainer, fatter
airfoil, more forgiving lift/stall, etc. Has to be slower-especially
powered as the prototype. Van will tell you if you call.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Steel with a locking washer.
Don Jordan RV6A Arlington, Tx
*****************************************
writes:
>
> what kind of nuts are used to install carb to 0-360? elastic stop
> nuts
> or steel stop nuts?
> thanks:
> Doyal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Countersinking perection |
12/11/2000 10:49:01
Try dressing the C/S holes with a stone. I got a whole mess of cheap stones
for the drill of various sizes at the auto parts store. One of the cheap
round (ball) sized stones are perfect for this kind of dressing. BTW the
conical stones are great for dressing up, or doing from scratch the
fiberglass C/S holes all over my RV.
"Are Barstad" (at)matronics.com on 12/09/2000 09:08:34
AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Countersinking perection
I just discovered that all the holes I countersunk on the wingspar for the
fuel tank attachment are somewhat oblong. Not alot, but oblong. It turns
out
that my countersink cage is not perfectly straight. It's so little that
it's
very hard to see, but I think this is the only way the holes can get
enlarged in one direction.
Anyone else exeperienced this? Hopefully, it will still be ok for strength.
I tried another cage, another coutersink and another drill. It seems it's
impossible to get it perfectly straight so the little 'nipple' on the
countersink stays fixed in one spot.
Am I to critical?
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
Gordon,
I just installed my landing light over the weekend, so I have just "been
there". I am assuming you mean the Duckworks landing light kit? I used the
template per instructions to draw the cutout line on the leading edge.
Then, I taped all around the hole with masking tape. Taking the advice of
most folks, I used a cut-off wheel in a Dremel tool to actually make the
cutout. I cut up to about 1/4" away from the cut line, then I used a hand
nibbler to get closer to the edge. Once I was about 1/16" away, I finished
it off with a combination of flat and half-round files. A little emery
cloth to smooth the edges, and you're done! Very easy.
I also learned something: If you read the Duckworks instructions, they are
very emphatic about you using the "strapping tape" method for drilling the
lens. This does work very well, but I had my helper pulling so hard on the
lens that it was hard to get the holes in the lens to line up with the holes
in the skin for final installation. So, don't pull too hard!
Good luck, and I hope this helps.
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A
Wings
>From: Gordon Robertson <gordon(at)safemail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Wing lights
>Date: Sat, 09 Dec 2000 22:07:07 -0800
>
>
>From: "Cliff Begnaud" <Shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Nibbler
>
>
>
>I'm planning for the leading edge wing light in my -9. A hole has to be
>cut
>in the wing leading edge and I'm assuming that this is done with a
>nibbler.
>I would greatly appreciate hearing from someone who has done this.
>Exactly
>which tool should I purchase for this job?
>Thanks,
>Cliff
>RV9A (N782PC -reserved)
>Empennage, wing arrives near christmas
>
>Cliff --
>
>I used a 2" cut-off disk in a die grinder. Worked great, but be
>careful. It is very aggressive.
>
>ps. The die grinder is one of the most useful tools I own. And it was
>only $20.
>
>Gordon Robertson
>
>RV8 sb wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Zeidman, Richard B" <Richard.Zeidman(at)PHL.Boeing.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming starting without prime |
Listers,
I am trying to find out how difficult a carburated Lycoming is to start in
cold weather without a primer. . At the present time my plane doesent have
one and I will be starting it for the first time in a few weeks. Pumping
the throttle while cranking is my plan.
I figure I can add one later if needed.
Rich Zeidman
RV6A N42RZ
Almost done
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | ACK vs. Ameri-King ELT |
Was that bought through Vans? Has anyone told Van's about the tremendously
bad problems you've had with the Ameri-King. I sure wish I had know about
these problems before I bought my Ameri-King blind encoder from Van's.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Ervin [mailto:bjervin(at)home.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 8:36 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: ACK vs. Ameri-King ELT
Don't know about their ELTs, but I had nothing but problems
with
Amri-King's Encoder, I sent it back 4 times and continued
to get the
same problem and the same excuse (it must be something you
or your tech
are doing). And the person I talked to couldn't even speak
good english.
I'm not impressed.
Bill
RV-6 Fuse
Doug Weiler wrote:
>
>
> >
> > I'm getting ready to order an ELT from Van's. I like the
weight savings of
> > the ACK E-01 compared to the Ameri-King AK-450 (about a
pound?) but it
> > costs $30 more. Are there any other features besides
weight and price that
> I
> > should consider?
>
> I purchased the ACK for both my Citabria and RV. I had
heard comments about
> poor customer service from Ameri-King. I don't know how
true those comments
> were, but I am happy with the quality and simplicity of
the ACK unit.
>
> Doug Weiler
> Mn Wing
>
> ================
> Doug Weiler
> Hudson, WI
> 715-386-1239
> dougweil(at)pressenter.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming starting without prime |
-----Original Message-----
From: Zeidman, Richard B <Richard.Zeidman(at)PHL.Boeing.com>
Date: Monday, December 11, 2000 10:29 AM
Subject: RV-List: Lycoming starting without prime
>
>Listers,
>I am trying to find out how difficult a carburated Lycoming is to start in
>cold weather without a primer. . At the present time my plane doesent have
>one and I will be starting it for the first time in a few weeks. Pumping
>the throttle while cranking is my plan.
>I figure I can add one later if needed.
>Rich Zeidman
>RV6A N42RZ
>Almost done
>
It would be helpful if you would quantify cold. Below 20 degrees Cessna
recommends preheat, and that is generally good practice. The problem is
firstly fuel transport and secondly fuel volatilization.
The transport problem is that the accelerator pump is squirting a solid
stream of cold gas into the carb throat. The theory is that when cranking,
the air flow is through the carb, thorough the induction pipes, past the
open inlet valve, and thence into the combustion chamber. Its pretty hard
for the liquid fuel to wend its way along that passage and find its way into
the combustion chamber. Most of the fuel falls to the bottom of the air box
and hopefully flows out that 3/16 hole you drilled there.
Unlike auto gas which is formulated to volatilize (go from liquid to gas
phase) in cold weather, av gas does not volatilize readily in the cold.
Hence the unprimed engine is trying to suck globs of liquid drops in while
starting. It usually starts, but this is not the preferred way. Cold starts
can result in engine fires if the engine backfires.
The primed engine, on the other hand, has (ideally) atomization nozzles in
the cylinder head. You buy these from A/S or Wicks. (See my post in the
archives for a detailed description of the parts needed for a priming
system.) Now the gas is atomized into tiny droplets, much like a fine
perfume bottle sprayer, and go directly into the combustion chamber. The
engine starts much more easily and can actually run on the priming system
while starting (or during an emergency).
You will doubless hear some replies of "I never need a primer" and "work's
well without a primer". I suggest that these folks a) don't start their
engines often when they have been cold soaked at well below 20 F, and b)
have neither experienced nor witnessed an engine fire resulting from an
attempted cold start.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 4-cylinder prime 25 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron bellcrank |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2000 10:46 AM
Subject: RV-List: Aileron bellcrank
It
> just seems strange not to use washers under the bolt head.
>
Washers are never used under the head of an bolt
except when the bolt is long and needs shimming .Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming starting without prime |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Zeidman, Richard B" <Richard.Zeidman(at)PHL.Boeing.com>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2000 11:23 AM
Subject: RV-List: Lycoming starting without prime
>
> Listers,
> I am trying to find out how difficult a carburated Lycoming is to start in
> cold weather without a primer. . At the present time my plane doesent have
> one and I will be starting it for the first time in a few weeks. Pumping
> the throttle while cranking is my plan.
> I figure I can add one later if needed.
> Rich Zeidman
> RV6A N42RZ
> Almost done
>
> Correct plan.Terry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2000 12:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6A or 9A
This wing well allow the 9A to fly slower which means that
> you can also land at a slower speed.
>
> Jerry
>
> My RV6 with VG's stalls at 44 mph. I can go anywhere an RV9 can go
and I can get there upside down.Terry
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming starting without prime |
I disconnected my prime system.After 5 years I used it twice and did not
need it then.Push the throttle twice and it works the accellerator pump
and it starts.This may not be right for everyone and I can always
reconnect.My RV4 sits in an insulated hanger in Poplar Grove Il.If it
was parked outside I would have a primer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming starting without prime |
Be careful on this one. Using the accelerator pump (pumping the throttle)
on a carb mounted to the bottom of an engine can be risky. While the
accelerator pump will get some of the gas into the cylinders it also drips
some out of the carb and into the air cleaner/carb area. If the engine
backfires (not unusual) you could have a fire to deal with. Priming injects
the fuel directly into the cylinders so backfires will be much less likely
to cause a fire. Been there Done that on a Warrior.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
Skinning the Wings
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
>
> Listers,
> I am trying to find out how difficult a carburated Lycoming is to start in
> cold weather without a primer. . At the present time my plane doesent have
> one and I will be starting it for the first time in a few weeks. Pumping
> the throttle while cranking is my plan.
> I figure I can add one later if needed.
> Rich Zeidman
> RV6A N42RZ
> Almost done
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
. Taking the advice of
> most folks, I used a cut-off wheel in a Dremel tool to actually make the
> cutout. I cut up to about 1/4" away from the cut line, then I used a hand
> nibbler to get closer to the edge. Once I was about 1/16" away, I
finished
> it off with a combination of flat and half-round files. A little emery
> cloth to smooth the edges, and you're done!
You'll get super results if you use a 1" or 2" scotchbrite wheel on your die
grinder to take the rough-cut edge down to the line. The cut-out comes out
super clean/smooth.
Rick Jory
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 12/10/00 |
THE RV9 IS A LITTLE WIDER THAN THE 6. THE 9 HAS A NEW TYPE WING THAT IS ABOUT
5 FOOT LONGER THAN HTE 6. THE STALL SPEED ON THE 9 IS LOWER THAN THE 6. THE
9 IS MORE A TRAINER .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
Folks,
Where can I buy one of these magical beasts?
Or, almost as good...How can I make one of these magical beasts?
Or, third in line...does anyone have one of these magical beasts that
they're willing to loan?
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB Richardson, TX N822AR - reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV8 Elec ail trim |
For those of you -8 guys that have elec ail trim...
How much throw does the rotational effect of the springs actuated by the
trim servo actually produce? It doesn't look like it would be that much but
I gotta ask.
I'm putting an 8 elec ail trim kit into the left wing of my 6QB since it's
ailerons already closed (QB style). What I'm trying to determine is the
amount of throw at the bellcrank that needs to be replicated in my
installation in order to produce the same trim capabilities.
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB Richardson, TX N822AR reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Terry, did you ever figure out how much (if any) the VGs knocked off of your
top/cruise speed. I presume there was some loss, but gaining a stall speed
of 44 mph would be worth it in my opinion if it were not an excessive lost
of cruise speed.
Ed Anderson
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6A or 9A
>
>
> This wing well allow the 9A to fly slower which means that
> > you can also land at a slower speed.
> >
> > Jerry
> >
> > My RV6 with VG's stalls at 44 mph. I can go anywhere an RV9 can go
> and I can get there upside down.Terry
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming starting without prime |
Although it might look like the primer is being injected into the cylinder,
I believe it is injected on the stem side of the valve and over priming
could also drip back out the carb.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2000 10:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming starting without prime
>
> Be careful on this one. Using the accelerator pump (pumping the throttle)
> on a carb mounted to the bottom of an engine can be risky. While the
> accelerator pump will get some of the gas into the cylinders it also drips
> some out of the carb and into the air cleaner/carb area. If the engine
> backfires (not unusual) you could have a fire to deal with. Priming
injects
> the fuel directly into the cylinders so backfires will be much less likely
> to cause a fire. Been there Done that on a Warrior.
>
> Mike Nellis - RV-6 N699BM (res)
> Plainfield, IL
> Skinning the Wings
> http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
>
>
> >
> > Listers,
> > I am trying to find out how difficult a carburated Lycoming is to start
in
> > cold weather without a primer. . At the present time my plane doesent
have
> > one and I will be starting it for the first time in a few weeks.
Pumping
> > the throttle while cranking is my plan.
> > I figure I can add one later if needed.
> > Rich Zeidman
> > RV6A N42RZ
> > Almost done
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | The Razers <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming starting without prime |
The answer is: the carburated Lyc starts harder in cold wx. If its below
35 degrees F and I don't preheat my 0360 is hard to start, and puts a
load on the starter and battery. It does however finally start. I
preheat if the temp drops below 40 degrees F and have no problems
starting. I don't have a primer system but am thinking about installing one.
Chet
"Zeidman, Richard B" wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
> I am trying to find out how difficult a carburated Lycoming is to start in
> cold weather without a primer. . At the present time my plane doesent have
> one and I will be starting it for the first time in a few weeks. Pumping
> the throttle while cranking is my plan.
> I figure I can add one later if needed.
> Rich Zeidman
> RV6A N42RZ
> Almost done
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
jellis(at)cswnet.com, Jonesr2(at)osc.army.mil, RICKRV6(at)AOL.COM, Ognir(at)pacbell.net,
WIRE4(at)AOL.COM
| Subject: | Re: ACK vs. Ameri-King ELT |
After reading all the problems users are having with Ameri-King I don't
think I want to do buisness with them until they have a complete change
of attitude toward the people who use their products.Maybe they have
forgotten these are customers,you know (customers) the ones with the
money
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Unibit extender |
We sell unibit extenders for $12.00 plus shipping. Give us a call if we
can help you. 940-648-0841.
George and Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
Hello Randall,
I just recently spent a few days putting in floors in the footwell area of
my 6-A. Mike Nellis has put some photos and drawings of my effort on his web
site <http://mnellis.jnet.net/RV-6_Page/index.htm> Is this the kind of idea
that you have done with your floors? I will be bonding some Sound / heat
insulation to the bottoms of the floor sheets later.
Jim in Kelowna
--- Original Message -----
From: Randall Henderson <randallh(at)home.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2000 11:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: cabin floor
>
> > For those who have installed a cabin floor which would raise your heels
> > toward rudder & brake pedals--does that require adjusting the height of
> > the pedals? Also is anyone using the curved pipe extensions?
>
> I did put in a "raised" floor (foam between the stiffeners and .032 over
the
> top), and I did raise the rudder pedals, by about an inch. However if I
> didn't have such big feet I migh'tve left them in the normal place. I also
> moved them forward about 3/4" which is more comfortable for me. Basically
I
> spent some time custom fitting the pedals to fit ME. Even if I hadn't put
in
> the raised floor I still would've custom fit it as necessary to fit my
> build. It's ME I built the plane for, after all! :-)
>
> As for the curved pipe extensions -- I'm using them but only because I had
> some fitting problems with the pipes -- in order to make them clear both
the
> cowl and the bottom of the firewall I had to rotate them a bit, but a
side
> effect of this is that the turndowns were "pigeon-toed". At the same time
> Larry told me about his new, shallower turndown extensions, so I cut my
> turndowns off and replaced them with the extensions, oriented the proper
> direction. The turndowns aren't as sharp as the originals were, so there's
> less drag (pipe out in the wind) and a little more thrust, in theory
anyway.
> Can't say what it did for the noise/vibration -- probably not much
different
> there. If I remember correctly, Larry said he's going with the shallower
> turndowns standard in current systems.
>
> Mine are still clamped on with hose clamps but I'll get them welded one of
> these days.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RWood90641(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming starting without prime |
Be warned. Inducing raw gas into venturi may bring on a preheat you may not
want. Please talk to a I.A. Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV8 Elec ail trim |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: RV8 Elec ail trim
Thread-Index: AcBjqaENgwLN9v54QDCCsBfIcNR89gAAMyEQ
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Ralph,
FWIW, I mated a MAC servo to the manual aileron trim spring system under
the seats and it works great. The springs are unnoticeable; I
"engineered" the system after I had already been flying without it.
Basically, you mount the aileron trim lever about 1" below the seat pan.
Orient the lever 90 degrees to one side, shorten the arm and drill a
hole through it for the clevis. Mount the servo to the side of the
center seat rib, connect everything and you're in business. I thought
it was much easier to fabricate than it was to modify the aileron and
have the tab sticking out, or in your case, modifying the -8 trim system
with the sliding bar into the wing. I did look at the system used in
the -8 before another lister sent me a picture of his setup. I'll check
and see if I still have a pic of his installation; I never took pictures
of mine.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 64 hours
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ralph E. Capen [mailto:recapen(at)earthlink.net]
> Sent: Monday, December 11, 2000 1:26 PM
> To: RV-LIST
> Subject: RV-List: RV8 Elec ail trim
>
>
>
>
> For those of you -8 guys that have elec ail trim...
>
> How much throw does the rotational effect of the springs
> actuated by the
> trim servo actually produce? It doesn't look like it would
> be that much but
> I gotta ask.
>
> I'm putting an 8 elec ail trim kit into the left wing of my
> 6QB since it's
> ailerons already closed (QB style). What I'm trying to
> determine is the
> amount of throw at the bellcrank that needs to be replicated in my
> installation in order to produce the same trim capabilities.
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph Capen
> RV6AQB Richardson, TX N822AR reserved
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Wheel Fairing Hole Plugs |
What are folks doing to fill the holes in Van's nose wheel fairing? I see
Cleveland sells a 3/4" plug.
Ross
N9PT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: UV Smmoth Prime |
> OK Paint Guru's, has anybody used any of this UV Smooth Prime that
> Spruce sells on the fiberglass S cowl, using a Roller instead of spraying
> to cover pin holes in glass.
>
> Thanks in advance Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB- finish stuff
I don't qualify as a paint guru, but I have used UV Smooth Prime in the war
to make fiberglass smooth. I think it's a good product and has several
advantages, but you should also be aware of PPG K36/38 as an alternative. UV
Smooth Prime is a water based urethane high-solids filler/primer. PPG K38 is
a solvent based version of the same thing. There's a lot to this story so
maybe a pros & cons approach would work here...
UV SMOOTH PRIME
Pros:
-Cleans up (before curing) with water
-Provides UV protection
-Can be applied with roller
Cons:
-Sprays poorly
-Takes forever to dry between coats
-Expensive
PPG K38
Pros:
-Sprays beautifully
-Drys quickly
-Sands beautifully
-Fills pinholes better than UV Smooth Prime
Cons:
-Expensive
-No UV protection built in (your paint will provide some)
Bottom line, on an overall basis I prefer K38 and have been usint it
extensively and exclusively for my more recent pieces. I have undertaken a
rather inolved cowl project that ended up requiring quite a bit of
fiberglass work. Having worked with both of these materials I feel qualified
to make the comments I have. Rolling the first coat when you have an
incredibly porous surface to deal with seems like a good idea at first, but
in retrospect K38 can be sprayed so heavily and easily that I think that is
the way I'd go even for initial coats if I were to do it all over again. All
of my initial fiberglass pieces such as my canopy skirt have an an initial
coat of UV Smooth Prime which I rollered on and sanded almost all the way
off, then multiple coats of K38. When you shoot K38 the best approach is to
shoot 3-4 heavy coats with 10-15 minutes between coats. Wait 24 hrs and
sand. Repeat this process 3-4 times and you should have a paintable surface.
Do all sanding with 120 grit dry paper, then your last coat sand with
360-400 either wet or dry, and paint. You can see a bit more detail on the
Painting page of my web site at www.rv-8.com
Have fun,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, still filling, sanding, and painting
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
Terry, Ed and others:
When comparing performance of airplanes please use the same apples (or
oranges). Comaring an RV-6x having vortex generators - and other variables,
with an RV-9a without VG is meaningless. It is my belief that an RV-9A with
an O-235 has a better time to climb performance than an F-16 (Uh..same
engine).
Ernest Kells
RV-9A - Building Wings, Planning: O-235 Wood Prop
Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
> Terry, did you ever figure out how much (if any) the VGs knocked off of
your
> top/cruise speed. I presume there was some loss, but gaining a stall
speed
> of 44 mph would be worth it in my opinion if it were not an excessive lost
> of cruise speed.
> > >
> > > My RV6 with VG's stalls at 44 mph. I can go anywhere an RV9 can go
> > and I can get there upside down.Terry
> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PPG K36/38 Hi solids primer |
12/11/2000 16:07:55
reposted for future e-searching with relative title.
"Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>@matronics.com on 12/08/2000 07:12:38 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: UV Smmoth Prime
> OK Paint Guru's, has anybody used any of this UV Smooth Prime that
> Spruce sells on the fiberglass S cowl, using a Roller instead of
spraying
> to cover pin holes in glass.
>
> Thanks in advance Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB- finish stuff
I don't qualify as a paint guru, but I have used UV Smooth Prime in the war
to make fiberglass smooth. I think it's a good product and has several
advantages, but you should also be aware of PPG K36/38 as an alternative.
UV
Smooth Prime is a water based urethane high-solids filler/primer. PPG K38
is
a solvent based version of the same thing. There's a lot to this story so
maybe a pros & cons approach would work here...
UV SMOOTH PRIME
Pros:
-Cleans up (before curing) with water
-Provides UV protection
-Can be applied with roller
Cons:
-Sprays poorly
-Takes forever to dry between coats
-Expensive
PPG K38
Pros:
-Sprays beautifully
-Drys quickly
-Sands beautifully
-Fills pinholes better than UV Smooth Prime
Cons:
-Expensive
-No UV protection built in (your paint will provide some)
Bottom line, on an overall basis I prefer K38 and have been usint it
extensively and exclusively for my more recent pieces. I have undertaken a
rather inolved cowl project that ended up requiring quite a bit of
fiberglass work. Having worked with both of these materials I feel
qualified
to make the comments I have. Rolling the first coat when you have an
incredibly porous surface to deal with seems like a good idea at first, but
in retrospect K38 can be sprayed so heavily and easily that I think that is
the way I'd go even for initial coats if I were to do it all over again.
All
of my initial fiberglass pieces such as my canopy skirt have an an initial
coat of UV Smooth Prime which I rollered on and sanded almost all the way
off, then multiple coats of K38. When you shoot K38 the best approach is to
shoot 3-4 heavy coats with 10-15 minutes between coats. Wait 24 hrs and
sand. Repeat this process 3-4 times and you should have a paintable
surface.
Do all sanding with 120 grit dry paper, then your last coat sand with
360-400 either wet or dry, and paint. You can see a bit more detail on the
Painting page of my web site at www.rv-8.com
Have fun,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, still filling, sanding, and painting
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
> It is my belief that an RV-9A with
> an O-235 has a better time to climb performance than an F-16 (Uh..same
> engine).
Hehee, this is true....but you still can't go upside down in it. :-)
Bill
-4 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Bow, Side Rail Alignment |
> I am building an RV-8 QB. I am about to attach the canopy bow weldment
> to the side rail. However, the angle of the weldment is greater than
> the matching portion of the rail where it is flat on the inside and has
> the upward angle towards the outside. The weldment lays flat on the
> inside where the two bolts go in from the side, but there is a gap on
> the outside where the five bolts attach downward. Anyone had the same
> problem and what did you do to make the weldment lay flat?
>
> Stu McCurdy
> RV-3, 74TX
> RV-8 QB, Fuselage
Several local builders have had fit problems such as you describe. Seems
there is a fair amount of variation in individual rollbars. In each case
they swapped them out and got one that fit pretty close. Of course you'll
never get one to match perfectly.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, painting
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
-----Original Message-----
From: tdale4 <tdale4(at)email.msn.com>
Date: Sunday, December 10, 2000 9:33 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV6A or 9A
>
>Can anyone tell me the main differences between the RV6A and the RV9A? I've
>looked at Van's homepage but the both look so similar. I guess the 9A is
>better if you don't plan on doing aerobatics????? It seems easier to build,
>almost as fast with a smaller engine, and a little larger inside. Any
>opinions would be greatly appreciated.
Like Eustace B., I was able to fly the RV-9A while at the homecoming last
fall. I concur with what he has said and offer some additional comments.
While the -9A resembles the -6A there are significant differences. The wing
is of significantly higher aspect ratio (smaller chord and greater span) and
uses a proprietary airfoil which I understand to have been designed by John
Roncz. It uses slotted flaps which utilize a greater percentage of the wing
trailing edge than the 4,6,8 series. The assembly method is different where
instead of a folded trailing edge, the T.E. is riveted, resulting in a
sharper edge. The canopy resembles the canopy developed for the Nigerian
project and as such is higher than the -6. I believe the fuselage at the
cockpit to be a bit (perhaps 1") wider than the -6 and this, combined with
the narrower wing and higher canopy produce better all round visibility than
the others. The engine/prop combination is the smoothest and quietest in my
experience. Ground handling resembles the Beech Musketeer in that it has a
castering nosewheel, but rudder authority at low speeds is good (better than
the Beech) and little braking is needed to taxi normally.
In flight, the stability margins appear to be greater in all axes than the
earlier designs. In practice, this implies that the aircraft will not
depart as quickly as the others and flying hands off for a bit indicated a
relatively low work load for cross country flight. Control forces are
moderate and well harmonized, a bit heavier than my -4 and the only -8 that
I've had my hands on. No where near as heavy as a typical production
aircraft. Glide path control is excellent, with great contribution from the
flaps and touchdown in a three point attitude is easily accomplished. On
the first landing, after slowing down and letting the nosewheel down, Jerry
suggested a go around and with full flaps, before the throttle was fully
open we were off and climbing within the flap operating speed and the R of C
said 1100fpm before the flaps were retracted. It appears that the aircraft
is not significantly slower than a comparably equipped -6A but will fly
with excellent control at speed below which the -6 will have stalled. While
the aircraft would, in my opinion, be good for training, I disagree
completely with the assertion that is just that. It will be an outstanding
cross country airplane, one that a pilot trained in Cessnas or Pipers will
transition to readily and it will literally fly circles around most of them.
If my mission was primarily cross country and there was no need for
aerobatics it would be my hands down choice. Besides, I would never have to
clean the bugs off my turbulators.
My thanks to Jerry and to Van for the opportunity to sample what I believe
to be an outstanding airplane.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Can anyone tell me the main differences between the RV6A and the RV9A? I've
>looked at Van's homepage but the both look so similar. I guess the 9A is
>better if you don't plan on doing aerobatics????? It seems easier to build,
>almost as fast with a smaller engine, and a little larger inside. Any
>opinions would be greatly appreciated.
>
>
I am a big admirer of the RV9A but would like to point out you give up a
few other things besides aerobatics if you choose this plane. There is
not a tip-up canopy or tailwheel option and, at this time, no quickbuild
option. The last item may not be very significant with the more advanced
9A kit.
I love my tip-up and tailwheel.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 12/11/00 2:40:45 PM Pacific Standard Time,
n5lp(at)carlsbad.net writes:
> There is
> not a tip-up canopy or tailwheel option and, at this time, no quickbuild
> option. The last item may not be very significant with the more advanced
> 9A kit.
Larry,
The tipup option is currently available, and I hear that Vans is now planning
a tailwheel version since they have had so many requests. I see no need for
a "quick build," I think the basic kit IS a quickbuild! Just my humble
opinion, I am having so much fun building mine, I wouldn't want to miss out
on any of it. But I am glad the main spars were prefabbed and annodized.
See ya at the fly-in someday soon(I hope)
Kevin Shannon
-9A fuse & panel planning
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Van's alternator |
| From: | b green <rvinfo(at)juno.com> |
I just retrofitted with Van's alternator kit and was wondering if anyone
had determined the automotive application for this unit. I know Van's
sells a replacement for around $80 which I believe is a fair price, but
if I am ever in a jam, it would be nice to be able to go to the local
auto parts store and be able to ask for an alternator for an 81 Honda or
whatever it is.
Bruce Green
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N286RV flies!! |
All right, Carey! Congratulations!!
Mike Robertson
RV-8A 11.3 hours
>From: Rvmils(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: N286RV flies!!
>Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 11:00:11 EST
>
>
>It was awesome. My brother and I put over 6 hours on it yesterday. We had
>a
>heavy right wing, squeezed the left aileron and now it flies hands off.
>Performance at a 1000 w/0360 and culver prop is 173mph @2400, 182 @ 2500,
>and
>193 @ 2640 max rpm. The max rpm should go up as the engine breaks in and
>that was with no wheel pants. I can't believe how easy this plane is to
>fly,
>land, and handle on the ground, and I can't wait for the rest of you to
>find
>out. What a joy to fly!!! Many thanks to list.
>Blue Skies,
>Carey Mills
>RV4
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Okay RV4 builders/flyers. I'm being stupid again. On all RV4's I've seen
there is a very smooth transition on the bottom of the fuselage between the
square-ish bulkheads fwd of the rear seat and the rear bottom fuselage.
Does anyone know where the drawing for that little devil is? A couple of
builders told me that it's in the manual but I can't find it.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Larry Pardue wrote:
<<<"There is not a tip-up canopy or tailwheel option and, at this time, no
quickbuild option. The last item may not be very significant with the more
advanced 9A kit.">>>
Larry,
The plans for my -9A fuselage DO show a tip-up canopy version however I
don't know if Van's is shipping it yet.
As for the quick-build option, I agree that it isn't very significant. If
you would like to see what my fuselage looks like after 40 days, click this
link: http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html The standard kit is quick enough
for me!
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derrick L. Aubuchon" <n184da(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 question |
Scott,
I didn't look in the manual, but look at drawing #40 of the plans,
lower left corner:" F466 Trailing edge fillet."
>
>Okay RV4 builders/flyers. I'm being stupid again. On all RV4's I've seen
>there is a very smooth transition on the bottom of the fuselage between the
>square-ish bulkheads fwd of the rear seat and the rear bottom fuselage.
>Does anyone know where the drawing for that little devil is? A couple of
>builders told me that it's in the manual but I can't find it.
>
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
>Network Administrator
>Union Safe Deposit Bank
>209-946-5116
Derrick L. Aubuchon
RV-4 N184DA
Byron, CA (C83)
125 Hrs
n184da(at)pacbell.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
Why is the 9A not capable of aerobatics? Design?
Not even a simple roll?
Steve Hurlbut
Comox, BC
shurlbut(at)island.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Gordon or Marge Comfort <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2000 1:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6A or 9A
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tdale4 <tdale4(at)email.msn.com>
> To: rv6-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sunday, December 10, 2000 9:33 AM
> Subject: RV-List: RV6A or 9A
>
>
> >
> >Can anyone tell me the main differences between the RV6A and the RV9A?
I've
> >looked at Van's homepage but the both look so similar. I guess the 9A is
> >better if you don't plan on doing aerobatics????? It seems easier to
build,
> >almost as fast with a smaller engine, and a little larger inside. Any
> >opinions would be greatly appreciated.
>
>
> Like Eustace B., I was able to fly the RV-9A while at the homecoming last
> fall. I concur with what he has said and offer some additional comments.
>
> While the -9A resembles the -6A there are significant differences. The
wing
> is of significantly higher aspect ratio (smaller chord and greater span)
and
> uses a proprietary airfoil which I understand to have been designed by
John
> Roncz. It uses slotted flaps which utilize a greater percentage of the
wing
> trailing edge than the 4,6,8 series. The assembly method is different
where
> instead of a folded trailing edge, the T.E. is riveted, resulting in a
> sharper edge. The canopy resembles the canopy developed for the Nigerian
> project and as such is higher than the -6. I believe the fuselage at the
> cockpit to be a bit (perhaps 1") wider than the -6 and this, combined with
> the narrower wing and higher canopy produce better all round visibility
than
> the others. The engine/prop combination is the smoothest and quietest in
my
> experience. Ground handling resembles the Beech Musketeer in that it has
a
> castering nosewheel, but rudder authority at low speeds is good (better
than
> the Beech) and little braking is needed to taxi normally.
>
> In flight, the stability margins appear to be greater in all axes than the
> earlier designs. In practice, this implies that the aircraft will not
> depart as quickly as the others and flying hands off for a bit indicated a
> relatively low work load for cross country flight. Control forces are
> moderate and well harmonized, a bit heavier than my -4 and the only -8
that
> I've had my hands on. No where near as heavy as a typical production
> aircraft. Glide path control is excellent, with great contribution from
the
> flaps and touchdown in a three point attitude is easily accomplished. On
> the first landing, after slowing down and letting the nosewheel down,
Jerry
> suggested a go around and with full flaps, before the throttle was fully
> open we were off and climbing within the flap operating speed and the R of
C
> said 1100fpm before the flaps were retracted. It appears that the
aircraft
> is not significantly slower than a comparably equipped -6A but will fly
> with excellent control at speed below which the -6 will have stalled.
While
> the aircraft would, in my opinion, be good for training, I disagree
> completely with the assertion that is just that. It will be an
outstanding
> cross country airplane, one that a pilot trained in Cessnas or Pipers will
> transition to readily and it will literally fly circles around most of
them.
> If my mission was primarily cross country and there was no need for
> aerobatics it would be my hands down choice. Besides, I would never have
to
> clean the bugs off my turbulators.
>
> My thanks to Jerry and to Van for the opportunity to sample what I believe
> to be an outstanding airplane.
>
> Gordon Comfort
> N363GC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derrick L. Aubuchon" <n184da(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 question - Correction |
Oops,, I meant lower Right corner. Sorry about that.
So my correct response should have been;
Scott,
I didn't look in the manual, but look at drawing #40 of the plans,
lower right corner:" F466 Trailing edge fillet."
>
>Okay RV4 builders/flyers. I'm being stupid again. On all RV4's I've seen
>there is a very smooth transition on the bottom of the fuselage between the
>square-ish bulkheads fwd of the rear seat and the rear bottom fuselage.
>Does anyone know where the drawing for that little devil is? A couple of
>builders told me that it's in the manual but I can't find it.
>
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
>Network Administrator
>Union Safe Deposit Bank
>209-946-5116
Derrick L. Aubuchon
RV-4 N184DA
Byron, CA (C83)
125 Hrs
n184da(at)pacbell.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 question - Correction |
I ordered my finish kit without Van's wing roots and used Scott James'. It
has a very smooth transition form leading edge to trailing flap edge to
include the those square corners.
Carey Mills
RV4, 7.4 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Fairing Hole Plugs |
Ross,
I used a unibit. Worked great.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
>From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV-List"
>Subject: RV-List: Wheel Fairing Hole Plugs
>Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 12:18:27 -0800
>
>
>What are folks doing to fill the holes in Van's nose wheel fairing? I see
>Cleveland sells a 3/4" plug.
>
>Ross
>N9PT
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
>
>Why is the 9A not capable of aerobatics? Design?
>Not even a simple roll?
>
>Steve Hurlbut
>Comox, BC
>shurlbut(at)island.net
>
Well, it all depends on what is meant by "capable of aerobatics".
There are a lot of aspects to this issue. Flight characteristics,
structural strength, performance, etc. From the flight
characteristics and performance points of view, I suspect (emphasis
on suspect) that the RV-9A would be capable of basic aerobatics.
But, Van chose to design the structure to withstand lower structural
loads than the other models.
Van uses FAR 23 as his design standard for the structure. He doesn't
have to do that, but he does because FAR 23 has proven to be a good
structural design standard, and aircraft that meet FAR 23
requirements rarely shed major parts. Van designed all the other RV
models to FAR 23 Aerobatic Category requirements, which means he had
to design for a 6g flight load (it is optional to design to a higher
load than that, and many aerobatic aircraft are designed to take much
more than 6g). For the RV-9A, Van would have had to use a much
heavier wing spar to meet those requirements, due to the longer span.
He chose to save some weight, and design to FAR 23 Utility Category,
which requires a 4.4g flight load.
You could probably get away with doing loops and rolls in a 9A, for
awhile. But some day you would screw up a manoeuvre, or hit a gust
in the middle of one, and you could have a wing fail. Don't be
tempted.
The early RV-3s had a minor design deficiency, which meant they
didn't quite meet the 6g requirement. Many of them did just fine,
but a small number lost a wing, and the pilots died. The early RV-3
will withstand more g than the RV-9A.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2000 1:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6A or 9A
>
>
> Terry, did you ever figure out how much (if any) the VGs knocked off of
your
> top/cruise speed. I presume there was some loss, but gaining a stall
speed
> of 44 mph would be worth it in my opinion if it were not an excessive lost
> of cruise speed.
>
>
> Ed Anderson
>
>
Ed, There are two of us with VG's here and niether of us can find
any decrease in top end. If it does, it is so small that we cant measure it.
High country exhaust is now offering the same kit we used.Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Stewart <bruces(at)shoalhaven.net.au> |
Hi All,
anyone on here have a 0-235 in their RV 3
just want to pick your brains about something.
Thanks
Bruce
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wndwlkr711(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | RV-6 kits for sale |
I am posting this for a friend that cannot because of medical reasons.
RV-6 empennage and wings: empennage built except for the elevators-no extras.
Wings are prepunch version, spars are built-no extras.
He lives near Palm Springs, CA. Asking $5000. You pick it up.
If interested, contact Karl Harmon at KiloHotel(at)prodigy.net or call
760-775-1065.
Thanks for the time.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
I got one from George Orndorff a while back. I suspect he still has them.
I would suggest though that you ask if he now makes a longer version. I
ended up replacing the steel rod with one about twice as long. Works great
though for opening up the holes in the wings to run PVC for wiring.
Oh, I also bought a unibit and had it machined down to 5/8" so it would go
through at just the right size for the pipe.
James
RV6AQB ... still a long way away ..
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2000 1:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: Unibit extender
Folks,
Where can I buy one of these magical beasts?
Or, almost as good...How can I make one of these magical beasts?
Or, third in line...does anyone have one of these magical beasts that
they're willing to loan?
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB Richardson, TX N822AR - reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Lycoming IO-360-C1E6 for sale |
Listers,
A very honest and trustworthy local engine shop has a very nice angle
valve (200 hp) Lycoming engine for sale. I am not connected with them in
any way. I just thought someone out there (with more money than me)
could find a home for it. Please contact Mark at Tropic Airpower
directly.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A finishing up wings and starting fuselage
Boca Raton, Fl.
PS Maybe if I'm really good, Santa will leave one of these under my
Christmas tree??? :-)
BEAUTIFUL LYCOMING IO-360-C1E6 200HP. ALL NEW LIMITS FROM THE
CRANKSHAFT OUT TO THE CERMI-NIL CYLINDERS WITH BALANCED PISTONS. NEW
MAGS/HARNESS/PLUGS. ALL NEW
HARDWARE. O/H FUEL SYSTEM. TEST RUN WITH FAA 8130-3 YELLOW TAG ZERO
SINCE MAJOR OVERHAUL. ALL NEW PARTS PER LYC S.B. 240R ALMOST CHROME
POWDER COAT AND HIGH TEMP ENAMEL LYC GRAY PAINT. ONE YEAR/500 HOURS
WARRANTY FIVE YEARS/TBO ON CERMI-NIL BARRELS OUTRIGHT 22,500.00.
EXCHANGE 18,500.00
mark(at)tropicairpower.com 561-964-8770
www.tropicairpower.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Krhooper(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Unibit extender |
Ralph,
Recently I needed to extend my unibit. I took a 1/4" drive socket that fit
the shank (don't remember the size). The shank has indentions where I
placed short pieces of saftey wire. The wire would not allow the bit to turn
in the socket. Put on some tape to hold everything in place. Chucked a
1/4" drive extention in the drill. This all sounds pretty sloppy but the
holes were true and I didn't have to wait for ordered tools to arrive.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
>Why is the 9A not capable of aerobatics? Design?
>Not even a simple roll?
>
>Steve Hurlbut
>Comox, BC
>shurlbut(at)island.net
Steve: I'm not sure I'd say the 9A is not capable of aerobatics. Van could
verify, but I believe the 9 is designed for lower max load factors. Also,
the additional stability, smaller ailerons (proportionally) and consequent
slower responses might make the recovery from a blown maneuver difficult to
keep within G limits. Perhaps the aircraft would do aerobatic maneuvers,
but it was not designed for them and it might be unwise to perform them. If
it is a serious concern, I suggest you talk to Van about it.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrownTool(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Brown Aviation Tool - ADV. |
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on-line catalog at: www.browntool.com
On behalf of all six of us here at Brown Aviation Tool Supply, we wish all of
you a very happy holiday season and the most prosperous and healthy new year.
Happy Holidays!
Michael Brown
Brown Aviation Tool Supply Co.
Oklahoma City, OK
www.browntool.com
browntool(at)aol.com
1-800-587-3883
405-688-6888
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CRASHOCONNOR(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: RV6A or 9A |
The RV9A has the same fuselage as the RV6a but has longer wings for more
stability and slower stall speeds. Also I don't think you can get a quick
build kit for an RV9A. RV9's were made for lower time pilots. i.e. easier to
handle.Not as pitch and roll sensitive.
Good luck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | W-811 wing ribs to rear spar |
I'm surprised I couldn't find anything in the archives about this:
I am in the process of drilling all the ribs to the wing spars. I discovered
that the edge distances on the bottom holes on the rear spar are not
sufficient - not even close. I only have this problem with the ribs
underneath the 817GPP fork doubler (wing walk + one or two ribs). The
pre-punched bottom rivet holes in the spar and doubler are much closer to
the edge of the rear spar than all other locations.
The weird thing is that I can't see any way that I could have done it much
better (unless I filed the aft flanges of the ribs waaay too much).
Anyone had this problem?
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 question |
Scott:
Don't worry about the plans. You will need to cut out a piece of
cardboard or poster board and cut one, bending it to shape, cutting it
down until it looks good. Cut it out of metal and rivet it. That
project is a 1 to 2 hour one by now. It is fun because you can make it
anydesign that your want!
How is everything going? I am really getting into the FWF business. the
money is really going out now!!!
Best wishes for the holiday
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
>
> Okay RV4 builders/flyers. I'm being stupid again. On all RV4's I've seen
> there is a very smooth transition on the bottom of the fuselage between the
> square-ish bulkheads fwd of the rear seat and the rear bottom fuselage.
> Does anyone know where the drawing for that little devil is? A couple of
> builders told me that it's in the manual but I can't find it.
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: W-811 wing ribs to rear spar |
Are, I had a similar problem with a couple of ribs because I mis-measured a
couple of times. It's a pretty easy fix really. Cut off the flanges and
make them a little wider. The standard flange is about 1/2" or so. I took
some scrap and made the flanges 3/4" ( or whatever width you wanted) and it
works fine. You can see a picture of one here
http://mnellis.jnet.net/RV-6_Page/images/Wings/DCP01525.JPG
Mike Nellis - RV-6 N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
Skinning the Wings
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2000 11:07 PM
Subject: RV-List: W-811 wing ribs to rear spar
>
> I'm surprised I couldn't find anything in the archives about this:
>
> I am in the process of drilling all the ribs to the wing spars. I
discovered
> that the edge distances on the bottom holes on the rear spar are not
> sufficient - not even close. I only have this problem with the ribs
> underneath the 817GPP fork doubler (wing walk + one or two ribs). The
> pre-punched bottom rivet holes in the spar and doubler are much closer to
> the edge of the rear spar than all other locations.
>
> The weird thing is that I can't see any way that I could have done it much
> better (unless I filed the aft flanges of the ribs waaay too much).
>
> Anyone had this problem?
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | AOA & Gretz Heated pitot installation |
I've received a couple of queries on how the installation of my heated
Pitot/Static kit went as well as the wing portion of the AOA instrument.
I completed both installations tonight and posted them on the web site.
Follow the links in the "Recently Updated Pages" box.
http://mnellis.jnet.net/RV-6_Page/
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Wheel Fairing Hole Plugs |
I got some nylon plugs at the hardware store.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
-----Original Message-----
From: Ross Mickey [mailto:rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2000 3:18 PM
To: RV-List
Subject: RV-List: Wheel Fairing Hole Plugs
What are folks doing to fill the holes in Van's nose wheel
fairing? I see
Cleveland sells a 3/4" plug.
Ross
N9PT
________________________________________________________________________________
>
> Terry, did you ever figure out how much (if any) the VGs knocked off of
yourtop/cruise speed. I presume there was some loss, but gaining a stall
speed of 44 mph would be worth it in my opinion if it were not an excessive
lost
> of cruise speed.
>
Ed, There are two of us with VG's here and niether of us can find
any decrease in top end. If it does, it is so small that we cant measure it.
High country exhaust is now offering the same kit we used.Terry
Imagine how slow the RV-9 would fly with VG's!
Ed Winne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
One of the complaints I have heard about the electric elevator trim that it
is overly sensitive causing difficulty in obtaining a proper setting. Is
this also true of the aileron? It seems I read a post recently, all though I
can't find it in the archives, about a device that reduces the output of
little "Mac Servo." I would asppreciate any and all comments as I'm getting
ready to order wings and havn't decided on the electric trim option yet.
Dennis Thomas
RV-9A Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <Gary.Fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
I'm planning for the leading edge wing light
Exactly
which tool should I purchase for this job?
I put the duckworks light in my airplane. A die grinder will work but I
would consider using a dremmel instead. It is easier to control. I
drilled the corner holes with my 1-inch step drill out to 3/4" and then just
connected the holes by cutting with the dremmel. Cutting with the step
drill will leave you nice rounded holes on the corners. Drill to a size of
your choosing. The plexi they send with the light is okay but you may want
to toss it in the landfill and pick up a piece of lexan instead. You can
bend the lexan by putting it in the oven and letting it droop over a mold of
your wing spars. Consider using floating nutplates for the attach points.
They will be easier to put the screws into.
Happy trails,
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <Gary.Fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming starting without prime |
I am trying to find out how difficult a carburated Lycoming is to start in
cold weather without a primer. . At the present time my plane doesent have
one and I will be starting it for the first time in a few weeks. Pumping
the throttle while cranking is my plan.
I figure I can add one later if needed.
That was also my plan when I built my airplane. I live in Dallas, Tx and
have a carburated O360, where (except for this week!!) the temps don't get
that cold. Hey 20 deg is cold isn't it? Anyway. You didn't mention if you
plan to preheat or not? It really doesn't matter though. One day you will
fly cross country (as I did), away from your preheater electrical supply (as
did I) and you will be stuck in a place with no FBO wishing you had taken
the time to put in a primer.
That said, I'm sure that you don't have to have a primer. However starting
the engine without flooding it will be tricky and may leave you stranded
with a dead battery. You may wear out one or more starters in your process
of learning to start the airplane without a primer as well. I hope they are
not any of those lightweight starters because they can be pretty pricey.
I have a pretty good starting procedure now and rarely run my starter for
more than five seconds. After 140 hours of flying this past year, I'm not
sure I would be at that point without the primer.
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "<Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com> |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with ESMTP id
for" ;
Tue,
12 Dec 2000 08:01:29.-0500(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: UV Smmoth Prime |
12/12/2000 08:02:04 AM
A neat trick to fill pin holes with K-36/38 is to squeegee on the first
coat. Just pour it on the surface and spread it. Lightly sand and then
spray a normal coat. Goodbye pin holes. The coat I pour I do reduce a
little with MEK.
Eric Henson
Insturment Panel
"Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>@matronics.com on 12/08/2000 07:12:38 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: UV Smmoth Prime
> OK Paint Guru's, has anybody used any of this UV Smooth Prime that
> Spruce sells on the fiberglass S cowl, using a Roller instead of
spraying
> to cover pin holes in glass.
>
> Thanks in advance Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB- finish stuff
I don't qualify as a paint guru, but I have used UV Smooth Prime in the war
to make fiberglass smooth. I think it's a good product and has several
advantages, but you should also be aware of PPG K36/38 as an alternative.
UV
Smooth Prime is a water based urethane high-solids filler/primer. PPG K38
is
a solvent based version of the same thing. There's a lot to this story so
maybe a pros & cons approach would work here...
UV SMOOTH PRIME
Pros:
-Cleans up (before curing) with water
-Provides UV protection
-Can be applied with roller
Cons:
-Sprays poorly
-Takes forever to dry between coats
-Expensive
PPG K38
Pros:
-Sprays beautifully
-Drys quickly
-Sands beautifully
-Fills pinholes better than UV Smooth Prime
Cons:
-Expensive
-No UV protection built in (your paint will provide some)
Bottom line, on an overall basis I prefer K38 and have been usint it
extensively and exclusively for my more recent pieces. I have undertaken a
rather inolved cowl project that ended up requiring quite a bit of
fiberglass work. Having worked with both of these materials I feel
qualified
to make the comments I have. Rolling the first coat when you have an
incredibly porous surface to deal with seems like a good idea at first, but
in retrospect K38 can be sprayed so heavily and easily that I think that is
the way I'd go even for initial coats if I were to do it all over again.
All
of my initial fiberglass pieces such as my canopy skirt have an an initial
coat of UV Smooth Prime which I rollered on and sanded almost all the way
off, then multiple coats of K38. When you shoot K38 the best approach is to
shoot 3-4 heavy coats with 10-15 minutes between coats. Wait 24 hrs and
sand. Repeat this process 3-4 times and you should have a paintable
surface.
Do all sanding with 120 grit dry paper, then your last coat sand with
360-400 either wet or dry, and paint. You can see a bit more detail on the
Painting page of my web site at www.rv-8.com
Have fun,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, still filling, sanding, and painting
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV8 Cowling instalation question |
How do you install upper cowling on RV8 without constant speed prop mounted
on engine?
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming starting without prime |
Richard,
I have a primer in my RV-6A (160 HP) but rarely use it in cold weather as
I always pre-heat. (Oil temps are always in the mid 60's prior to
starting...) Pumping the throttle works good under those conditions.
Once in a while I forget to turn set the timer that turns on the
pre-heater. Last weekend that was the case. With the oil temps at 30*F, I
tried to start it the same way and was not successful until I used the
primer. Just could not get it to start by just pumping the throttle.
So either plan on always starting warm, or install a primer......
Fred Stucklen
N925RV (1680 hrs/7.5 Yrs)
E. Windsor, CT 06088
WK Email: stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com
Hm/Travel Email: wstucklen1(at)juno.com
____
From: "Zeidman, Richard B" <Richard.Zeidman(at)PHL.Boeing.com>
Subject: RV-List: Lycoming starting without prime
I am trying to find out how difficult a carburated Lycoming is to
start in
cold weather without a primer. . At the present time my plane
doesent have
one and I will be starting it for the first time in a few weeks.
Pumping
the throttle while cranking is my plan.
I figure I can add one later if needed.
Rich Zeidman
RV6A N42RZ
Almost done
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV8 Cowling installation question |
As I recall you can't. At least you can't do it easily and still get a good
fit between the cowl and spinner. If you don't have your prop yet, you
might be able to make a dummy prop hub and install the spinner with that
instead.
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ ~65-hrs
Pearland, Texas
-----Original Message-----
From: BHESS36(at)AOL.COM [mailto:BHESS36(at)AOL.COM]
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 7:11 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV8 Cowling instalation question
How do you install upper cowling on RV8 without constant speed prop mounted
on engine?
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Gottschalk <geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Countersinking perection |
>
>Are,
>
>Sure, glad it helped. It's an easy fix. I guess I should have responded to
>the whole list. Just a little list shy.
>
>-Gene
>
>>Hi,
>>
>>That is exactly what my problem is. I will try to bend it a bit like you
>>did.
>>
>>Thanks for the tip!
>>
>>Regards,
>>Are
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Gene Gottschalk [mailto:geneg@rattler-f.gsfc.nasa.gov]
>>Sent: December 11, 2000 3:07 PM
>>To: abarstad(at)bconnex.net
>>Subject: Fwd: RV-List: Countersinking perection
>>
>>
>>Are,
>>
>>I found after I dropped my countersink cage and drill motor a couple of
>>times the shaft was slightly bent. I chucked it into my drill press and
>>rotated the chuck with a pointer in a stand right next to the pilot. It was
>>out of round by about 3/32. This caused oblong holes. A few well placed
>>pressures on the cage brought the shaft back into suitable alignment. I
>>don't know if that's your problem, but it might be worth a check.
>>
>>-Gene Gottschalk
>>RV-6A N700RV
>>
>>
>> >
>> >I just discovered that all the holes I countersunk on the wingspar for the
>> >fuel tank attachment are somewhat oblong. Not alot, but oblong. It turns
>>out
>> >that my countersink cage is not perfectly straight. It's so little that
>>it's
>> >very hard to see, but I think this is the only way the holes can get
>> >enlarged in one direction.
>> >
>> >Anyone else exeperienced this? Hopefully, it will still be ok for strength.
>> >I tried another cage, another coutersink and another drill. It seems it's
>> >impossible to get it perfectly straight so the little 'nipple' on the
>> >countersink stays fixed in one spot.
>> >
>> >Am I to critical?
>> >
>> >Are
>> >RV-8 Wings
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Hobenshield <edhob(at)kermode.net> |
| Subject: | Re: canadian rv4 |
>
>No that is Canadian dollars. About $28000 USD.
>Not a bad deal but the engine had no logs and the aircraft was sold as is
>where is.
>
>Steve Hurlbut
>Comox, BC
Thanks Steve, It did look good in the pictures!
Ed H.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 question |
12/12/2000 10:27:28
Sam James has a neat transition fairing for just that area. That is the one
I used.Check The Yeller pages for Sam's contact information
David Aronson (at)matronics.com on 12/12/2000 12:52:24
AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 question
Scott:
Don't worry about the plans. You will need to cut out a piece of
cardboard or poster board and cut one, bending it to shape, cutting it
down until it looks good. Cut it out of metal and rivet it. That
project is a 1 to 2 hour one by now. It is fun because you can make it
anydesign that your want!
How is everything going? I am really getting into the FWF business. the
money is really going out now!!!
Best wishes for the holiday
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
>
> Okay RV4 builders/flyers. I'm being stupid again. On all RV4's I've
seen
> there is a very smooth transition on the bottom of the fuselage between
the
> square-ish bulkheads fwd of the rear seat and the rear bottom fuselage.
> Does anyone know where the drawing for that little devil is? A couple of
> builders told me that it's in the manual but I can't find it.
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Berryhill" <dwberryhill(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming and Auto gas date.) |
> The problem of water will NOT exist if you use a Tractor funnel with the
> very fine mesh screen. I used one yesterday when filling my snow blower.
I
> got to where the gas would not pass until I emptied out the accumulated
> water.
>
> You will also be surprised at the dirt that a tractor funnel will catch as
> well.
>
........snip
O.K., I'll bite. Where do you get a tractor funnel?
Dave
No RV (yet)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 12/12/00 4:00:12 AM Pacific Standard Time,
DThomas773(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< One of the complaints I have heard about the electric elevator trim that
it
is overly sensitive causing difficulty in obtaining a proper setting. Is
this also true of the aileron? It seems I read a post recently, all though
I
can't find it in the archives, about a device that reduces the output of
little "Mac Servo." >>
Just buy two of Matt's trim governors from Van's and install them. Mine are
set to produce about half speed which is close to perfect under all
conditions.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derrick L. Aubuchon" <n184da(at)pacbell.net> |
There is also a "travel-limiter" available which is essentially, just
a little plastic clip that attaches to the servo arm which trips the
micro-switch before full extension. This does nothing however, to
control the speed,, just the travel.
>
>In a message dated 12/12/00 4:00:12 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>DThomas773(at)AOL.COM writes:
>
><< One of the complaints I have heard about the electric elevator trim that
>it
> is overly sensitive causing difficulty in obtaining a proper setting. Is
> this also true of the aileron? It seems I read a post recently, all though
>I
> can't find it in the archives, about a device that reduces the output of
> little "Mac Servo." >>
>
>Just buy two of Matt's trim governors from Van's and install them. Mine are
>set to produce about half speed which is close to perfect under all
>conditions.
>
>-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
>vanremog(at)aol.com
Derrick L. Aubuchon
RV-4 N184DA
Byron, CA (C83)
125 Hrs
n184da(at)pacbell.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron bellcrank |
Are wrote:
> It just seems strange not to use washers under the bolt head.
Put at least a thin washer under the bolt head if the bolt gets turned while
tightening, especially if the bolt is on softer material like aluminum. If
the head scuffs up the washer you can replace it. I put a thin washer under
heads of all 3/16ths bolts attaching the wing spar to the aircraft.
Another case where you might put a washer under the head is when the bolt is
too long. It seems as if it should be okay to put up to three washers under
the bolt head to shorten reach. Of course, getting the right length of bolt
is really the right answer.
You also use a "fender" washer (AN910?) when appropriate.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mac Servos Trim Governer Trim Bias Trim Sensitivity |
12/12/2000 12:06:28
Reposted with title keywords for future e-searching of Matts' archives
Vanremog(at)AOL.COM@matronics.com on 12/12/2000 11:01:54 AM
In a message dated 12/12/00 4:00:12 AM Pacific Standard Time,
DThomas773(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< One of the complaints I have heard about the electric elevator trim that
it
is overly sensitive causing difficulty in obtaining a proper setting. Is
this also true of the aileron? It seems I read a post recently, all
though
I
can't find it in the archives, about a device that reduces the output of
little "Mac Servo." >>
Just buy two of Matt's trim governors from Van's and install them. Mine
are
set to produce about half speed which is close to perfect under all
conditions.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Jim,
Yes that's pretty similar to what I did. Differences are:
1) No extra angles on the sides -- I just underlapped/overlapped the floor
skin with those existing large side/floor fuselage angles. By that I mean, I
underlapped on the aft side, overlapped on the fwd side, of that
intermediate bulkhead. Cut out for the bulkhead. Nutplates aft of the
bulkhead are in the floor piece; fwd of the bulkhead are in the angle. Is
this clear? Hard to describe without a drawing. In any case, this was a bit
simpler and although the floor isn't completely flat there it's not
noticable.
2) I put a small separate piece in the middle behind the battery box as
well. Just overlapped the other two pieces.
I used 1/2" thick "uniroyal charcoal" soundproofing foam under the floor
pieces. Since it's not thick enough to take up all the space, I just
sprinkled little snips of the stuff over the top so it would be compressed
in there and dampen the vibration. Didn't use any adhesive.
Great results. It's quieter than other O-360 powered RV-6s I've been in. And
my main goal was to dampen floor vibration and that has worked -- when I
lift my feet there's no increase in noise/vibration.
Randall
----- Original Message -----
From: "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2000 11:29 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: cabin floor
>
> Hello Randall,
> I just recently spent a few days putting in floors in the footwell area of
> my 6-A. Mike Nellis has put some photos and drawings of my effort on his
web
> site <http://mnellis.jnet.net/RV-6_Page/index.htm> Is this the kind of
idea
> that you have done with your floors? I will be bonding some Sound / heat
> insulation to the bottoms of the floor sheets later.
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
> --- Original Message -----
> From: Randall Henderson <randallh(at)home.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2000 11:43 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: cabin floor
>
>
> >
> > > For those who have installed a cabin floor which would raise your
heels
> > > toward rudder & brake pedals--does that require adjusting the height
of
> > > the pedals? Also is anyone using the curved pipe extensions?
> >
> > I did put in a "raised" floor (foam between the stiffeners and .032 over
> the
> > top), and I did raise the rudder pedals, by about an inch. However if I
> > didn't have such big feet I migh'tve left them in the normal place. I
also
> > moved them forward about 3/4" which is more comfortable for me.
Basically
> I
> > spent some time custom fitting the pedals to fit ME. Even if I hadn't
put
> in
> > the raised floor I still would've custom fit it as necessary to fit my
> > build. It's ME I built the plane for, after all! :-)
> >
> > As for the curved pipe extensions -- I'm using them but only because I
had
> > some fitting problems with the pipes -- in order to make them clear both
> the
> > cowl and the bottom of the firewall I had to rotate them a bit, but a
> side
> > effect of this is that the turndowns were "pigeon-toed". At the same
time
> > Larry told me about his new, shallower turndown extensions, so I cut my
> > turndowns off and replaced them with the extensions, oriented the proper
> > direction. The turndowns aren't as sharp as the originals were, so
there's
> > less drag (pipe out in the wind) and a little more thrust, in theory
> anyway.
> > Can't say what it did for the noise/vibration -- probably not much
> different
> > there. If I remember correctly, Larry said he's going with the shallower
> > turndowns standard in current systems.
> >
> > Mine are still clamped on with hose clamps but I'll get them welded one
of
> > these days.
> >
> > Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
> > Portland, OR
> > http://www.edt.com/homewing
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
I forgot to mention: it does add a few pounds. I started with .040 thinking
that would be needed but switched to .032 -- since it'll be supported by the
foam, and you'll probably have carpet over it, it's fine. Maybe could even
get away with .025. Certainly could do .025 for the center piece.
Randall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Elec ail trim |
Ralph,
I am still working on getting the roll trim just right so I have recently
had lots of experience here. Keeping in mind that the fuel tanks are 21
gallons each in the -8, the electrical trim system as it comes from van's
goes just past the point that will compensate for about 1/2 fuel tank
unbalance.
I have had a light wing that crimping the trailing edge of the aileron on
the light wing would not do enough so one of the steps that I tried was to
install slightly larger/stiffer springs. That helped was but wasn't quite
- - - , 20- - December 12, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ju