RV-Archive.digest.vol-jv
December 12, 2000 - December 17, 2000
enough so I have removed all springs at this point and am installing a trim
wedge under the aileron on the light wing.
At this point my trim wedge is only 3.5 inches long and 1/4 inch high at the
aft end. It is surprising how much force a very little wedge makes.
I hope that helps.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
11.3 hours
>From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV-LIST"
>Subject: RV-List: RV8 Elec ail trim
>Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 12:26:22 -0600
>
>
>For those of you -8 guys that have elec ail trim...
>
>How much throw does the rotational effect of the springs actuated by the
>trim servo actually produce? It doesn't look like it would be that much
>but
>I gotta ask.
>
>I'm putting an 8 elec ail trim kit into the left wing of my 6QB since it's
>ailerons already closed (QB style). What I'm trying to determine is the
>amount of throw at the bellcrank that needs to be replicated in my
>installation in order to produce the same trim capabilities.
>
>Thanks,
>Ralph Capen
>RV6AQB Richardson, TX N822AR reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Routing Mixture Cable |
Do the firewall holes for the mixture/throttle/prop need to be drilled
before the engine is hung? How hard is it to get to the firewall to
drill holes after the engine is installed?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A QB
About ready to install engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
Talk to Laird Owens. He made some real nice looking composite
floor boards with cutouts for his heels.
Ed Cole
RV6A Finishing Kit
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randall Henderson [SMTP:randallh(at)home.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 9:08 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: cabin floor
>
>
> I forgot to mention: it does add a few pounds. I started with .040
> thinking
> that would be needed but switched to .032 -- since it'll be supported by
> the
> foam, and you'll probably have carpet over it, it's fine. Maybe could even
> get away with .025. Certainly could do .025 for the center piece.
>
> Randall
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron bellcrank |
Hal,
Didn't know our RV's had "fenders".....
Laird (I perfer my airplanes without fenders, same with race cars)
RV-6 150hrs
SoCal
Snip
You also use a "fender" washer (AN910?) when appropriate.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New slick mag question |
Got a question for you firewall forward vets. I'm doing the wiring on the 8
and I've come across something that has me stumped. Using a continuity meter,
I'm getting a reading from the p-lead terminal to the case ground screw on my
new Slick mag. (Impulse coupler, left side only. Got electronic ignition on
the right).
Shouldn't the p-lead terminal be isolated from the case ground unless I have
the p lead wire hooked up and grounded through the ignition switch?
Is there some kind of safety mechanism in a new Slick mag that keeps it
grounded until it is removed or something? I haven't pulled the cap off or
anything yet.
Thanks,
Keith
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
Here we go...
I am attempting to fit my tank and cannot get the skin to match well at
the LE. The fit is almost perfect on the entire bottom and around the
front of the joint, but about one inch above the front (about where the
front top rivet for the splice plate is) rearward for about 3", the LE
skin becomes lower than the tank skin, about 1.5mm at the worst point,
then becomes flush again at about the fourth splice rivet. All ribs are
flush to the spar (LE) and baffle (tank) and the skins are nicely mated
to the ribs. The LE is already rivetted together and to the spar, so I
can't shim the skin/splice out away from the inboard LE rib without
removing these 3 or 4 rivets and somehow bucking the rivets through the
rib lightening hole, (what kind of bar would I have to conjure up for
THAT!) or by using (GASP!) pop rivets. It does appear the LE skin is
lower here than it should be as indicated by a straightedge placed along
the skin parallel to the spar. It appears I bent this area of the LE
downward slightly as I set the rivets in the rib/splice plate.
Anybody had this problem, what magical solution(s) could you offer?
If the problem is unclear (and you're still interested!) please let me
know.
Thanks-
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark - (badly) massaging the metal on my -6A's right wing...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron bellcrank |
Laird,
Race cars without fenders? You a formula one fan? Yeah, yeah
yeah.....can't wait for the new season. Schumy's luck has run out....
:-)
Bill
-4 wings
Porsche 951 GT-3s
Formula one West/Mercedes (on a poster) :-(
> Hal,
>
> Didn't know our RV's had "fenders".....
>
> Laird (I perfer my airplanes without fenders, same with race cars)
> RV-6 150hrs
> SoCal
>
>
> Snip
>
> You also use a "fender" washer (AN910?) when appropriate.
>
> hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New slick mag question |
Keith,
You WILL get a reading with a multimeter across the 'P' lead and ground.
What you are really reading, I believe, is impedence. With a coil and
breaker system there is not an absolute "break" in the system. When you
attach the 'P'; lead to your key and turn it off you are just giving a lower
resistance path to ground.
I know thats not a very technical answer but I hope it helps.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
11.3 hours
>From: RKOdell(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: New slick mag question
>Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 13:19:08 EST
>
>
>Got a question for you firewall forward vets. I'm doing the wiring on the 8
>and I've come across something that has me stumped. Using a continuity
>meter,
>I'm getting a reading from the p-lead terminal to the case ground screw on
>my
>new Slick mag. (Impulse coupler, left side only. Got electronic ignition on
>the right).
>
>Shouldn't the p-lead terminal be isolated from the case ground unless I
>have
>the p lead wire hooked up and grounded through the ignition switch?
>
>Is there some kind of safety mechanism in a new Slick mag that keeps it
>grounded until it is removed or something? I haven't pulled the cap off or
>anything yet.
>
>Thanks,
>Keith
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming and Auto gas date.) |
Farm and Fleet here in midwest. A farm supply store.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Berryhill" <dwberryhill(at)home.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 9:55 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming and Auto gas date.)
>
> > The problem of water will NOT exist if you use a Tractor funnel with the
> > very fine mesh screen. I used one yesterday when filling my snow
blower.
> I
> > got to where the gas would not pass until I emptied out the accumulated
> > water.
> >
> > You will also be surprised at the dirt that a tractor funnel will catch
as
> > well.
> >
> ........snip
>
> O.K., I'll bite. Where do you get a tractor funnel?
>
> Dave
> No RV (yet)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Meacham <bruceme(at)exmsft.com> |
| Subject: | No Electrical Setup |
I'm going to buid my RV-4 with a starter and a motorcycle battery, no
electrical system. If the plane is otherwise stock, should I have any CG
problems putting this lite battery in the engine compartment? Assuming O-320,
with a wood prop, what should I expect for an empty weight? Are there others
with this configuration that could compare?
Thanks in advanced,
Bruce Meacham
bruceme(at)exmsft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 control stick bushings |
This has probably been discussed but I could not find it in the archives.
Need help from all you -4 builders out there.
I am fitting the control sticks to the control column and cant get the an4
bolts through the brass bushings inside WD-411 and WD-412. Do these bushings
need to be reamed out or am I doing something wrong?
Gus at Van's suggested reaming the bushing, not sure how to do that.
Larry
Hawkins, RV-4, Farmington, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Routing Mixture Cable |
Yo Charlie,
If you had plans that showed the place to drill the holes, then you could
and should drill them. I hung the engine and hooked it up during the past 8
months and my plans did not show where the plumbing and controls went. For
that reason I drilled everything (with much trouble and cursing, etc.) after
the engine was in place. I used an angle drill and a lot of patience.
Skinned knuckles too, but that happens every time I do anything near and
engine.
Some really smart people fit the engine to the mount and then put the
mounted engine on and off the plane during this process. I am not that
intelligent, but I think I will when I build me next plane.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
-----Original Message-----
Do the firewall holes for the mixture/throttle/prop need to be drilled
before the engine is hung? How hard is it to get to the firewall to
drill holes after the engine is installed?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming starting without prime |
Cy Galley wrote:
>
>
> Although it might look like the primer is being injected into the cylinder,
> I believe it is injected on the stem side of the valve and over priming
> could also drip back out the carb.
>
> Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
> (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
>
Thank you Thank you Thank you for making that clear. I wonder why so
many people think that the primer goes directly into the cylinder, but
no one thinks the manifold pressure tap does....when they've got three
cylinders with primer lines & one with a manifold pressure tap.
It's amazing how many Old Wive's Tales & Fables get repeated (and
accepted) as truth when it comes to aircraft.
In this case, believing it can give a false sense of security as you
over prime your engine.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Fit(s!) |
Mark, I'm certainly interested in your tank issue! I just got up from the
dungeon where I was doing some trial fitting of the tank skins before I
start drilling the tank ribs to the bulkhead. I noticed that the skins are
not quite square with the leading edge and main skins. I haven't riveted
the Leading Edge or main skins yet but I think the answer is going to be to
use a file and trim the tank skins until everything butts up against each
other. I had to do this on the bottom main skin to get a perfect butt joint
with the bottom of the LE skin.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
Skinning the Wings
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel(at)edge.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 3:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: Tank Fit(s!)
>
> Here we go...
>
> I am attempting to fit my tank and cannot get the skin to match well at
> the LE. The fit is almost perfect on the entire bottom and around the
> front of the joint, but about one inch above the front (about where the
> front top rivet for the splice plate is) rearward for about 3", the LE
> skin becomes lower than the tank skin, about 1.5mm at the worst point,
> then becomes flush again at about the fourth splice rivet. All ribs are
> flush to the spar (LE) and baffle (tank) and the skins are nicely mated
> to the ribs. The LE is already rivetted together and to the spar, so I
> can't shim the skin/splice out away from the inboard LE rib without
> removing these 3 or 4 rivets and somehow bucking the rivets through the
> rib lightening hole, (what kind of bar would I have to conjure up for
> THAT!) or by using (GASP!) pop rivets. It does appear the LE skin is
> lower here than it should be as indicated by a straightedge placed along
> the skin parallel to the spar. It appears I bent this area of the LE
> downward slightly as I set the rivets in the rib/splice plate.
>
> Anybody had this problem, what magical solution(s) could you offer?
> If the problem is unclear (and you're still interested!) please let me
> know.
>
> Thanks-
> From the PossumWorks in TN
> Mark - (badly) massaging the metal on my -6A's right wing...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Ok, since Ed mentioned it.
I used one ply of 5.7 oz/sq. yd carbon on each side of 1/4" honeycomb (you can
also use a med density foam) and epoxy to make mine. Really light and stiff.
Like I've said in the past, I actually like working with the sticky stuff (but
I wouldn't make an airplane out of one). But people don't think I'm quite right
in the head, either. Probably too many fumes.....
I riveted a couple of 90 deg clips with nutplates on to the lower longerons, and
bolted them in. I don't have any insulation between them, but will probably
do so soon.
I had to cut a hole to let my heals down a little because I was getting inadvertent
braking while applying rudder in my taildragger.
I'll fix that soon by modify the rudder peddles forward about 15 deg. and then
patch the hole in the floor so I can put down some carpet.
Laird (waiting for a new windshield and some insurance estimates)
RV-6 150hrs
SoCal
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Tue, Dec 12, 2000 11:43 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: cabin floor
Talk to Laird Owens. He made some real nice looking composite
floor boards with cutouts for his heels.
Ed Cole
RV6A Finishing Kit
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randall Henderson [SMTP:randallh(at)home.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 9:08 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: cabin floor
>
>
> I forgot to mention: it does add a few pounds. I started with .040
> thinking
> that would be needed but switched to .032 -- since it'll be supported by
> the
> foam, and you'll probably have carpet over it, it's fine. Maybe could even
> get away with .025. Certainly could do .025 for the center piece.
>
> Randall
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Routing Mixture Cable |
Most builders drill these holes after the engine is on the mount due to the
variences between engines. Drilling through the firewall isn't too bad if
you have an angle head drill attachment. Drill a pilot hole through the
firewall and then follow up with your UNIBIT to the correct size. You can
drill from either side as it suits you. Just measure many times before
drilling to get every thing in the right places.
Douglas G. Murray
Southern Alberta
Subject: RV-List: Routing Mixture Cable
>
> Do the firewall holes for the mixture/throttle/prop need to be drilled
> before the engine is hung? How hard is it to get to the firewall to
> drill holes after the engine is installed?
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A QB
> About ready to install engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Cowling instalation question |
>
> How do you install upper cowling on RV8 without constant speed prop
mounted
> on engine?
>
> Bill
>
Bill, the problem is that you will not know exactly where the aft spinner
bulkhead will be without first installing the prop. Some builders have had
to put spacers in to move the aft bulkhead further aft so that the prop will
not strike it when at full "coarse" pitch. My Hartzell cleared it by about
1\8 inch without spacers, but others have not been so lucky. You want the
distance from the front of the cowl to the spinner to be at least 1\8" but
not more than about 3\8," so this does not leave you much to play with. In
addition, please note that the scribe line for trimming the Van's spinner
would have made my spinner too short had I trimmed it to this line, so don't
do any sanding on it until you're sure it will extend over the aft spinner
bulkhead. I would not try to install the cowl without the prop installed.
You don't necessarily have to torque and safety the nuts, but I did because
the thing is such a pain to install that I don't want to take it off until
I absolutely have to.
Good luck,
Jerry Carter
8A, 0360 A1A, Hartzell HC-C2YK-1BF
Cowl inlet ramps and cooling baffles
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Upholstry Info Request |
| From: | Lawrence J Greeno <greenrv(at)juno.com> |
George and Becki,
My 6A project is in the finishing stage; engine mounted, gear on, etc.
About a year ago you offered upholstry information and i responded -
'let's hold off until I'm closer to finishing'. Well, that time has
arrived. My wife Joan is my interior decorator. The interior paint for
the cabin area is taupe. If possible, she would appreciate even very
small scrap samples of fabric and leather samples. Once we have your
basic information she'll get to work reviewing it and will probably call
with questions.
At the onset you need to know we've selected you and at least two other
sources for comparison purposes. Joan much prefers leather but price
will be a factor. We will be interested in not only the seats but side
panels, baggage area, etc. to give a finished look. We will be
interested in weight also.
I am 5' 8.5" tall; Joan about 5'3". We look forward to your reply.
Please also include your general catalog of items available to RV
builders.
As an aside, we've met a few years back at the Oswego, NY forum (I
believe you had your daughter with you and we sang 'Happy Birthday' ),
and also at Frederick MD's forum. North Chili is a suburb of Rochester,
NY. I'm in year 6, member of EAA Chapter 44. I've used your video,
especially in the fuselage/wing stages of construction.
My address: 24 Gilead Hill Road, North Chili, NY 14514
Regards,
Larry Greeno
N446A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 control stick bushings |
Larry,
You do have to ream them out.
Ed Cole
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Hawkins [SMTP:lhawkins(at)giant.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 11:19 AM
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com '
> Subject: RV-List: RV-4 control stick bushings
>
>
> This has probably been discussed but I could not find it in the archives.
> Need help from all you -4 builders out there.
> I am fitting the control sticks to the control column and cant get the
> an4
> bolts through the brass bushings inside WD-411 and WD-412. Do these
> bushings
> need to be reamed out or am I doing something wrong?
> Gus at Van's suggested reaming the bushing, not sure how to do that.
>
> Larry
> Hawkins, RV-4, Farmington, NM
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kique M Castillo" <emorcill(at)worldonline.es> |
| Subject: | Last issue of Rvators. |
Hi, all:
Up to now, I only received the first and second issue of 2000 Rvators.
Whas is the las issue received by yours?
Thanks and best form Spain:
RV6A emp.
emorcill(at)worldonline.es
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming starting without prime |
-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Date: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 1:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming starting without prime
>
>Cy Galley wrote:
>>
>>
>> Although it might look like the primer is being injected into the
cylinder,
>> I believe it is injected on the stem side of the valve and over priming
>> could also drip back out the carb.
>>
>> Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
>> (Click here to visit our Club site at
http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
>>
>Thank you Thank you Thank you for making that clear. I wonder why so
>many people think that the primer goes directly into the cylinder, but
>no one thinks the manifold pressure tap does....when they've got three
>cylinders with primer lines & one with a manifold pressure tap.
>
>It's amazing how many Old Wive's Tales & Fables get repeated (and
>accepted) as truth when it comes to aircraft.
>
>In this case, believing it can give a false sense of security as you
>over prime your engine.
>
>Charlie
>
I am the one guilty of spreading the Old Wive's Tale about the primer
squirting directly into the combustion chamber -- no excuse. Sorry for my
misinformation. With my ECI cylinders I have four cylinders primed (upper
fittings) and two manifold pressure pickoffs (lower fittings) -- one for
LASAR and one for VM1000.
Dennis Persyk N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 25 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 control stick bushings |
Yes they do. A reamer would be the best tool to use. Avery has them. I
just used a regular drill bit and that seemed to work OK, but if you want to
be 100% accurate and minimize any possibility of slop in your stick
movement, invest in a reamer.
Doug Weiler
N464EM flying
N722DW non-flying
@giant.com>
>
> This has probably been discussed but I could not find it in the archives.
> Need help from all you -4 builders out there.
> I am fitting the control sticks to the control column and cant get the
an4
> bolts through the brass bushings inside WD-411 and WD-412. Do these
bushings
> need to be reamed out or am I doing something wrong?
> Gus at Van's suggested reaming the bushing, not sure how to do that.
>
Larry
> Hawkins, RV-4, Farmington, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel injection maintenace |
Fellow Listers and fuel injection experts:
My recently purchased RV-4 is equipped with a standard Bendix fuel injection
system. This is the first aircraft I have owned with FI. Is there any
special preventive maintenance procedures that are done at annual on such a
system?
Many thanks
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Whitaker <rmwhitaker(at)lanl.gov> |
I've been an observer of this list off and on for several years now. The
discussions
of the various attributes of the RV6 vs the RV6 have been of particular
interest to
me because I've narrowed my choice of home built aircraft down to one of
these two.
Because of the mountainous areas here in New Mexico and the western states, it
seems that one should plan on flying at cross country altitudes of 10,500
ft msl and
above. How about some opinions (particularly from you aerodynamicist types)
with
regard to the cross country attributes of the 6 vs the 9 at these altitudes.
With O-320's under the hood, 6 and 9 cruise speeds are roughly equivalent
at 8,000 ft msl. Are there speed advantages at the higher altitudes with
respect to wing
loading, wing aspect ratio, induced drag, etc.? How about turbulence? Would
one
plane suffer significantly more than the other with regard to light to
moderate turbulence?
What say you out there?
Regards,
Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: timing mags to engine |
dear listers
thanks to carl i am now the proud owner of 2 brand spanking new mags. now i
need to install these puppies, and time them to the engine. i know how to get
#1 cylinder to top dead center. a mechanic once explained the proceedure but
my memory fails me as how to time the marks on the flywheel to the engine and
mags.
i think the mags have a pin? or something to insert and turn until it drops
in? but that is about all i can remember.
any help out there?
thanks
scott
tampa
rv6a building at the speed of light
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: No Electrical Setup |
12/12/2000 16:32:04
Transponder might be helpful depending where you want to fly.
Bruce Meacham (at)matronics.com on 12/12/2000 05:59:48 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: No Electrical Setup
I'm going to buid my RV-4 with a starter and a motorcycle battery, no
electrical system. If the plane is otherwise stock, should I have any CG
problems putting this lite battery in the engine compartment? Assuming
O-320,
with a wood prop, what should I expect for an empty weight? Are there
others
with this configuration that could compare?
Thanks in advanced,
Bruce Meacham
bruceme(at)exmsft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 control stick bushings |
12/12/2000 04:37:24 PM
Yes, ream them to size. Length is important due to how the weldment picches
the babbit.. I put data on the chat group on how I did it.
Larry Hawkins (at)matronics.com on 12/12/2000 02:19:22 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 control stick bushings
This has probably been discussed but I could not find it in the archives.
Need help from all you -4 builders out there.
I am fitting the control sticks to the control column and cant get the an4
bolts through the brass bushings inside WD-411 and WD-412. Do these
bushings
need to be reamed out or am I doing something wrong?
Gus at Van's suggested reaming the bushing, not sure how to do that.
Larry
Hawkins, RV-4, Farmington, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Elec ail trim |
12/12/2000 04:39:22 PM
Have you tried a quarter turn or half turn on the flap rods to adjust for a
heavy wing ??
"Mike Robertson" (at)matronics.com on 12/12/2000
12:54:48 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Elec ail trim
Ralph,
I am still working on getting the roll trim just right so I have recently
had lots of experience here. Keeping in mind that the fuel tanks are 21
gallons each in the -8, the electrical trim system as it comes from van's
goes just past the point that will compensate for about 1/2 fuel tank
unbalance.
I have had a light wing that crimping the trailing edge of the aileron on
the light wing would not do enough so one of the steps that I tried was to
install slightly larger/stiffer springs. That helped was but wasn't quite
enough so I have removed all springs at this point and am installing a trim
wedge under the aileron on the light wing.
At this point my trim wedge is only 3.5 inches long and 1/4 inch high at
the
aft end. It is surprising how much force a very little wedge makes.
I hope that helps.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
11.3 hours
>From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV-LIST"
>Subject: RV-List: RV8 Elec ail trim
>Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 12:26:22 -0600
>
>
>For those of you -8 guys that have elec ail trim...
>
>How much throw does the rotational effect of the springs actuated by the
>trim servo actually produce? It doesn't look like it would be that much
>but
>I gotta ask.
>
>I'm putting an 8 elec ail trim kit into the left wing of my 6QB since it's
>ailerons already closed (QB style). What I'm trying to determine is the
>amount of throw at the bellcrank that needs to be replicated in my
>installation in order to produce the same trim capabilities.
>
>Thanks,
>Ralph Capen
>RV6AQB Richardson, TX N822AR reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
Laird, are you planning on adding the floor pan to your list of fiberglass
accessories for the RV? It sound like a great product, and if anything like
the instrument panel quality, I'd be willing to give it a shot..........
Hope to be showing off your panel at S-N-F 2001
Steven DiNieri
capsteve(at)wzrd.com
>
Ok, since Ed mentioned it.
I used one ply of 5.7 oz/sq. yd carbon on each side of 1/4" honeycomb (you
can also use a med density foam) and epoxy to make mine. Really light and
stiff.
Like I've said in the past, I actually like working with the sticky stuff
(but I wouldn't make an airplane out of one). But people don't think I'm
quite right in the head, either. Probably too many fumes.....
I riveted a couple of 90 deg clips with nutplates on to the lower longerons,
and bolted them in. I don't have any insulation between them, but will
probably do so soon.
I had to cut a hole to let my heals down a little because I was getting
inadvertent braking while applying rudder in my taildragger.
I'll fix that soon by modify the rudder peddles forward about 15 deg. and
then patch the hole in the floor so I can put down some carpet.
Laird (waiting for a new windshield and some insurance estimates)
RV-6 150hrs
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Cowling instalation question |
12/12/2000 16:44:10
Also, when trimming the REAR part of the cowl..........that line you make
so that you fit the top hinge....when you cut that top cowl at that
point-------it isn't a straight line nor a obvious curve for that matter.
Make many measure points and connect the dots to form your trim line.
Simply eyeballing or using a straight edge to establish that trim line
won't do it.(Its actually easy then this warning implies.) I had to assist
two builders who didn't pay attention when they made those cuts.
"Jerry Carter" (at)matronics.com on 12/12/2000
05:20:44 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Cowling instalation question
>
> How do you install upper cowling on RV8 without constant speed prop
mounted
> on engine?
>
> Bill
>
Bill, the problem is that you will not know exactly where the aft spinner
bulkhead will be without first installing the prop. Some builders have had
to put spacers in to move the aft bulkhead further aft so that the prop
will
not strike it when at full "coarse" pitch. My Hartzell cleared it by about
1\8 inch without spacers, but others have not been so lucky. You want the
distance from the front of the cowl to the spinner to be at least 1\8" but
not more than about 3\8," so this does not leave you much to play with. In
addition, please note that the scribe line for trimming the Van's spinner
would have made my spinner too short had I trimmed it to this line, so
don't
do any sanding on it until you're sure it will extend over the aft spinner
bulkhead. I would not try to install the cowl without the prop installed.
You don't necessarily have to torque and safety the nuts, but I did because
the thing is such a pain to install that I don't want to take it off until
I absolutely have to.
Good luck,
Jerry Carter
8A, 0360 A1A, Hartzell HC-C2YK-1BF
Cowl inlet ramps and cooling baffles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 control stick bushings |
>
>This has probably been discussed but I could not find it in the archives.
>Need help from all you -4 builders out there.
> I am fitting the control sticks to the control column and cant get the an4
>bolts through the brass bushings inside WD-411 and WD-412. Do these bushings
>need to be reamed out or am I doing something wrong?
>Gus at Van's suggested reaming the bushing, not sure how to do that.
> Larry
>Hawkins, RV-4, Farmington, NM
>
On my RV-8, I had to ream the bushings. I bought a 1/4 inch reamer
from a local industrial tool supply place. Some people will just use
a 1/4 drill. The bushing should be longer than the corresponding
portion of the stick so that the bushing will be clamped in place by
the bolt. The stick rotates on the bushing. So, the little bit of
slop you would get if you just used a 1/4 drill won't matter, because
the bushing will be fixed in place by the clamping pressure of the
bolt.
I seem to recall that I put the bushing in my drill press to hold it,
then swung the table out of the way and ran the reamer freehand in a
variable speed hand drill. You want to go nice and slow with the
reamer, and don't let it jam. You might ruin the teeth if you jam it
and have to reverse direction to get it loose. I ruined a reamer
that way.
Have fun,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 control stick bushings |
> >
> > This has probably been discussed but I could not find it in the archives.
> > Need help from all you -4 builders out there.
> > I am fitting the control sticks to the control column and cant get the
> > an4
> > bolts through the brass bushings inside WD-411 and WD-412. Do these
> > bushings
> > need to be reamed out or am I doing something wrong?
> > Gus at Van's suggested reaming the bushing, not sure how to do that.
> >
> > Larry
> > Hawkins, RV-4, Farmington, NM
Order the chucking reamers from Avery's (or other tool supply place of your
choice). They're indispensable for situations like these. I've found uses for
3/16, 1/4, 5/16 & 3/8 sizes.
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 N118KB (reserved)
gear mounted; waiting for help to turn fuse upright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bert murillo <bertrv6(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Mistery on aligning of wings solved |
Hi everyone:
First thanks to all of you that responded
to my message, concerning the alignment of the wings
first time.
By your responses, and talking recently with
some builders, at a fly-in. there are a lot of
Rv's, with the wings out of alignment; one builder
mentioned, that one of his wings, is about 3/4"
off, in relation to the other wing, but also said
his plane flies fine...
After a lot of frustration, and many, many hours
of hard work, a friend, builder came one day, and
told me what the problem was, as he also could not
understand why he could not align the wings...
So for all new builders, be prepared when that
time come.
This is the Problem:
When you fit the wings, first time, you cannot move
the
wings sufficiently into the fuselage braket,
because;
1. The wing bracket W607D( the upper portion)
might hit the fuselage...To be safe, before starting
filed about 1/8 of the top of the W-607D, just the
tip, round it smooth. Do not cut any portion of
of the w607 B, there is a warning not to do that.
Since the distance between the edge and the center
for the bolt must be preserve...
2. THIS IS THE REAL PROBLEM; When you push the
wing in, ( which must be done to align them)
the Vertical flange of the Wing spar is hitting
the forward section of the Fuselage (two parts)
bars that receive the wing bracket...
YOU CANNOT SEE THIS, unless you get a swivel
mirrow, long handle and a flash light. You must
do this so that you can go to the next step.
SOLUTIONS
A. Which is what I did, take a heavy and long
screw driver, mine has the tip, rounded , and no
sharp edges.
Carefully, pry the tip of the screw driver
between the, Fuselage bracket and the flange of the
wing rib/and bracket, this will open, enough so
that the wing goes in. Two people are needed..
When the wing is push towards the rear, you will
clearly hear, when the wing is completely inserted.
REmove the Screw driver. and go to the other
side, repeat same steps.
B; Another solutions, would be to, trim about
1/8 or so, of the flange...
OR; trim about 1/8 or so, of the forward
portion, of the fuselage bracket... I do not believe
this will jeopardize the integrity of the support
I have not talk to Van's on this, So check before
you do this..
Once this is completed, then you can set you
Angle of Insidence.
Check you plumb line again, with your floor
line, all across the leading adge, as per Instrucions.
Of course, I had my wings, with all the bolts (hard
ware, type wich I had smoothed out, on the belt
sander,
and the tips were rounded for easy insertion.
Also be aware, that when installing the
reinforcement plates;W620 each one has its own
place...
that was another problem, they seem to match the holes
but they are not....If your bolts are too hard to
insert, check again, and you probably have to change
the location of the spar reinforcement plates..W620.
My Wings are now perfectly aligned
I hope this will be of help to those, who have
the same problem I had.
Any questions, contact me off line
Bert
rv6a
Just resting now....happy one more thing finished.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel Estrada F." <dani_estrada(at)infosel.net.mx> |
| Subject: | extension cord... |
Why in a compressor must be use a longer air hose instead an electric
extension...?
thanks
Daniel Estrada
Mexico City
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Routing Mixture Cable |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Don't know where you could decide where to drill without the engine
hung.
I located, then drilled #40 with the 90 degree from the front, then
finished from the rear.
Still haven't inlarged for the grommet. When the engine comes off, I will
final for the grommet & drill the steel plates for their holes.
Don Jordan RV6A Arlington, Tx
*****************************************
writes:
>
> Do the firewall holes for the mixture/throttle/prop need to be
> drilled
> before the engine is hung? How hard is it to get to the firewall to
> drill holes after the engine is installed?
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A QB
> About ready to install engine
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | alternator numbers |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
The 14129 is:
Looks like it fits a 70-74 Toyota Corolla & 70-72 Toyota Pockup.
External REgulation , 2 pivot legs, 12:00 adjusting arm ( the mount is at
6:00). viewed from rear.
156 mm between holes, 118 mm stator OD.
It is Only 30 amps.
The 14184 is simular at 35 amps. (76-79 Honda Civic)
My 14118 50 amp is 175 mm. IT is clocked at 12:00. I can't find anything
in this book at 50 or above that is not that size.
I plan on added a bump to the cowling. Vans adjusting arm is too short &
the fan almost hits the flywheel. If I can't find the right belt, I will
have to build a longer bracket.
Don Jordan RV6A Arlington, Tx
*****************************************
writes:
>
>
> 14129
>
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 64 hours
>
> > Bruce:
> > Get me the ARC or REF or Lester number off it. I have a
> > catalog. I may be
> > aBLE TO CROOS REF it.
> >
> > Don Jordan RV6A Arlington, Tx
> > *****************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Rowles <lmrowles(at)netspace.net.au> |
Hello to all.
A question for a mate:- Has any one on the list tried the "Skybolt" Cam
Loc installation on an RV-6 cowls. It sure looks like a convenient way to
remove and replace cowls when needed.
Best regards.
Les Rowles.
Traralgon Australia.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: extension cord... |
Dan,
Because long extension cords carry high resistance to the point that your
compressor may not start. Unless you want to get a large contractor gauge
extension cord, go with a long air hose. Cheaper and easier to do.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
>From: "Daniel Estrada F." <dani_estrada(at)infosel.net.mx>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: extension cord...
>Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 16:15:26 -0600
>
>
>
>Why in a compressor must be use a longer air hose instead an electric
>extension...?
>
>thanks
>
>
>Daniel Estrada
>Mexico City
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J D Newsum" <jdnewsum(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Baggage Bin floors etc. |
The RV-6 plans specify pop rivets to install the baggage bin floors and
seat bottoms.
It would appear that if the floors were secured using plate nuts, it
would be easy to remove them
if necessary somewhere down the line i.e. maybe for inspection.
Has anyone considered this, or is the general consensus that using plate
nuts would just be
unnecessary extra work, added weight etc. with no value added.
Looking for any comments and/or suggestions.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: More RV6 vs RV9 |
>
>I've been an observer of this list off and on for several years now. The
>discussions
>of the various attributes of the RV6 vs the RV6 have been of particular
>interest to
>me because I've narrowed my choice of home built aircraft down to one of
>these two.
>
>Because of the mountainous areas here in New Mexico and the western states, it
>seems that one should plan on flying at cross country altitudes of 10,500
>ft msl and
>above. How about some opinions (particularly from you aerodynamicist types)
>with
>regard to the cross country attributes of the 6 vs the 9 at these altitudes.
>
>With O-320's under the hood, 6 and 9 cruise speeds are roughly equivalent
>at 8,000 ft msl. Are there speed advantages at the higher altitudes with
>respect to wing
>loading, wing aspect ratio, induced drag, etc.? How about turbulence? Would
>one
>plane suffer significantly more than the other with regard to light to
>moderate turbulence?
>
>What say you out there?
>
>Regards,
>Rob
>
Rob,
Indicated airspeeds in cruise decrease at higher altitudes, so the
induced drag increases. In theory, the higher aspect ratio of the
RV-9A wing will be more beneficial at high altitude. In practice, I
suspect you would have to go up into the high teens to see much
effect. So, this probably shouldn't be a major factor in your
decision.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | reiff oil sump heater installation |
Thread-Topic: reiff oil sump heater installation
Thread-Index: AcBkjhSCqYfoqQHPR6+Z0AeBM75dZw=
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Listers,
For those of you who have oil sump heaters, did you strip the paint off
the sump where the heater bonds to? The directions say to do so, but a
local mechanic who's installed a few said if the sump is painted right
you don't need to strip it. I'm just wondering if I need to go through
the trouble.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 64 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-4 transition piece |
Hi Larry,
Thanks for looking. Another list'er pointed out that it's on DWG 40, lower
right hand corner. It comes with the finish kit. I just spent an hour this
morning fabricating the buggers and found them in my finish kit! Here's a
tip for RV4 builders, do not rivit the side skins in the lower aft corner
and likewise the bottom skin in the aft outboard corners. This fillet needs
to slide under those skins. Now I have to drill out some rivets to make it
fit!
PS. I'm copying the list on my reply so that other 4 builders can benefit
from this as well.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Hawkins [mailto:lhawkins(at)giant.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 5:51 AM
To: 'Van Artsdalen, Scott'
Subject: RV-4 transition piece
I know I've seen it, I will look tonight and see if I can
help. I wish I
were to the point of needing it.
Larry
Hawkins, RV-4, Farmington, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Laird, are you planning on adding the floor pan to your list of fiberglass
accessories for the RV? It sound like a great product, and if anything like
the instrument panel quality, I'd be willing to give it a shot..........
Hope to be showing off your panel at S-N-F 2001
Steven DiNieri
capsteve(at)wzrd.com
Hi Steve,
Interesting thought about adding to my product line....but probably not practical
due to cost. I did it just to be different, and I had the materials lying
around.
I do have to say, after people mention the panel, the next question is about the
carbon floorboards. I was really surprised about that.
Thanks for the testimonial about my panel and glad your getting close to flying.
You'll be the first of my customers to fly behind one. I hope to see you at
Sun N Fun. Pictures looked great.
ADVERTISEMENT TO FOLLOW (Turn your young one's eyes away now)
In case your new to the list or just didn't know, I sell a composite instrument
panel for the RV-6(a) and the RV-9(a) that is similar to the Glasair canted panel
but designed just for the RV.
You can see details:
http://www.planes-wings-things.com/rv-6_panel.htm
Makes the perfect stocking stuffer ;-)
Feel free to email me at:
owens(at)aerovironment.com
if you have any comments or questions.
Now back to your regularly scheduled RVlist.....
Laird
(Steve, checks in the mail..... ;-)
>
Ok, since Ed mentioned it.
I used one ply of 5.7 oz/sq. yd carbon on each side of 1/4" honeycomb (you
can also use a med density foam) and epoxy to make mine. Really light and
stiff.
Like I've said in the past, I actually like working with the sticky stuff
(but I wouldn't make an airplane out of one). But people don't think I'm
quite right in the head, either. Probably too many fumes.....
I riveted a couple of 90 deg clips with nutplates on to the lower longerons,
and bolted them in. I don't have any insulation between them, but will
probably do so soon.
I had to cut a hole to let my heals down a little because I was getting
inadvertent braking while applying rudder in my taildragger.
I'll fix that soon by modify the rudder peddles forward about 15 deg. and
then patch the hole in the floor so I can put down some carpet.
Laird (waiting for a new windshield and some insurance estimates)
RV-6 150hrs
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Baggage Bin floors etc. |
> It would appear that if the floors were secured using plate nuts, it
> would be easy to remove them
> if necessary somewhere down the line i.e. maybe for inspection.
>
> Has anyone considered this, or is the general consensus that using plate
> nuts would just be
> unnecessary extra work, added weight etc. with no value added.
> Looking for any comments and/or suggestions.
I used nut plates. I installed my Whelan Strobe Pack under the baggage
floor.
Ross
6-A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Baggage Bin floors etc. |
I must be feeling gabby today. Sorry if I've pissed anyone off.
J D,
I riveted my floor on, but made two hatches on either side of the elevator pushrod
compartment that open with Hartwell latches so I could use the space to store
things like a quart of oil, my killer Ti downs (an RV must have from Randy
Simpson) a first aid kit and some tools.
Works great and keeps the baggage area from getting cluttered.
I'll try to get a couple of shots up on the web. I always get a lot of comments
about it at airshows, like "why didn't I think of that"
Laird RV-6
SoCal
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Tue, Dec 12, 2000 3:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Baggage Bin floors etc.
The RV-6 plans specify pop rivets to install the baggage bin floors and
seat bottoms.
It would appear that if the floors were secured using plate nuts, it
would be easy to remove them
if necessary somewhere down the line i.e. maybe for inspection.
Has anyone considered this, or is the general consensus that using plate
nuts would just be
unnecessary extra work, added weight etc. with no value added.
Looking for any comments and/or suggestions.
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | Re: reiff oil sump heater installation |
| From: | "Denis (Bum) Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 12/12/00 15:51, Bob Japundza at Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> For those of you who have oil sump heaters, did you strip the paint off
> the sump where the heater bonds to? The directions say to do so, but a
> local mechanic who's installed a few said if the sump is painted right
> you don't need to strip it. I'm just wondering if I need to go through
> the trouble.
>
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 64 hours
>
>
>
>
>
>
I decided it was too tough , so I roughed it up a little and glued it on
right over (under) the grey paint., according to Reiff's instructions. Kept
it under force until cured.
It is hanging in there fine after 3+ years and 700 hours so far.
Makes me wish I had used the blue stuff elsewhere.
D WAlsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Routing Mixture Cable |
I think it would best to mark and predrill pilot holes in the battery box
backing, then put the backing in place, then from the cabin area, drill
through the firewall as perpendicular as possible. Once the pilot holes
have been put through the firewall, remove the battery box backing and
enlarge the holes with the unibit.
Tom Barnes
----- Original Message -----
From: Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 6:05 AM
Subject: RV-List: Routing Mixture Cable
>
> Do the firewall holes for the mixture/throttle/prop need to be drilled
> before the engine is hung? How hard is it to get to the firewall to
> drill holes after the engine is installed?
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A QB
> About ready to install engine
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Baggage Bin floors etc. |
I've done just what you are considering. I wasn't going to be happy with
a
ton of pop rivets looking up at me, plus the ability to remove the panels
has already paid off in spades... I even went so far as to use all flush
screws and platenuts. my .02 says it was worth the effort..
-----Original Message-----
The RV-6 plans specify pop rivets to install the baggage bin floors and
seat bottoms.
It would appear that if the floors were secured using plate nuts, it
would be easy to remove them
if necessary somewhere down the line i.e. maybe for inspection.
Has anyone considered this, or is the general consensus that using plate
nuts would just be
unnecessary extra work, added weight etc. with no value added.
Looking for any comments and/or suggestions.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Robert Whitaker wrote:
>Because of the mountainous areas here in New Mexico and the western states,
it
>seems that one should plan on flying at cross country altitudes of 10,500
>ft msl and
>above. How about some opinions (particularly from you aerodynamicist types)
>with
>regard to the cross country attributes of the 6 vs the 9 at these
altitudes.
Robert,
The latest RVator (4th issue, 2000 - page 6) talks about Scott McDaniels
trip to Copperstate in the RV-9A. The article stated: "The weather and
turbulence dictated flying high. Scott reports that the RV-9A flies well
indeed at 15,500', better than his RV-6A."
That is to be expected with the higher aspect ratio wing.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Fuselage
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
Fellow Listers:
For those who have installed Van's filtered air box... the instructions
note that the FAB is orientated 5 degrees to the right. Correct me if I am
wrong, but shouldn't this be orientated to the left to compensate for the
fact that the engine is canted to the right, thus aligning the FAB straight
ahead?
Doug
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FAB orientation |
> For those who have installed Van's filtered air box... the instructions
> note that the FAB is orientated 5 degrees to the right. Correct me if I
am
> wrong, but shouldn't this be orientated to the left to compensate for the
> fact that the engine is canted to the right, thus aligning the FAB
straight
> ahead?
The carb is not on the engine centerline.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rvpilot" <rvpilot(at)coollink.net> |
Dennis,
The electric aileron trim is fine just as it is, no speed reducer is needed.
The elevator trim is another story.
Bill, RV-8 N48WD
----- Original Message -----
From: <DThomas773(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 6:56 AM
Subject: RV-List: Mac Servos
>
> One of the complaints I have heard about the electric elevator trim that
it
> is overly sensitive causing difficulty in obtaining a proper setting. Is
> this also true of the aileron? It seems I read a post recently, all
though I
> can't find it in the archives, about a device that reduces the output of
> little "Mac Servo." I would asppreciate any and all comments as I'm
getting
> ready to order wings and havn't decided on the electric trim option yet.
> Dennis Thomas
> RV-9A Emp
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: timing mags to engine |
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 4:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: timing mags to engine
>
> dear listers
> thanks to carl i am now the proud owner of 2 brand spanking new mags. now
i
> need to install these puppies, and time them to the engine. i know how to
get
> #1 cylinder to top dead center. a mechanic once explained the proceedure
but
> my memory fails me as how to time the marks on the flywheel to the engine
and
> mags.
> i think the mags have a pin? or something to insert and turn until it
drops
> in? but that is about all i can remember.
> any help out there?
> thanks
> scott
> tampa
> rv6a building at the speed of light
>
> Get some who is current . This is tricky if you have never done it.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Baggage Bin floors etc. |
I've nutplated mine in with dimpled nutplates to give me a flat floor.
It was a pain in the @$$ to do but I've also done my seatbottoms the same
way.
Glad I did it!
If you want more details - zap me offline...
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: More RV6 vs RV9 |
In a message dated 12/12/00 4:29:35 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rmwhitaker(at)lanl.gov writes:
> Are there speed advantages at the higher altitudes with
> respect to wing
> loading, wing aspect ratio, induced drag, etc.? How about turbulence?
Would
> one
> plane suffer significantly more than the other with regard to light to
> moderate turbulence?
Hi Rob,
I have not had the opportunity to fly in a 9A yet, so all of this is based on
the generic effects of aspect ratio (A/R) and wing loading.
The more highly loaded the wing (RV6), the better the ride in turbulence. I
suspect the manuevering speed is higher on the 6 which means you do not have
to slow down as much when you are in severe turbulence as you do in a 9. Many
times when you have turbulence you are bucking a strong headwind which is the
time you do not have to thottle back.
The higher the aspect ratio (RV9), the better the climb, service ceiling, and
cruise at high altitudes and lighter wing loading also improves these.
You just have to look at the numbers and see what fits your fancy!
I just started flying my 6A in May and am tickled pink with it. If I were
starting an RV today, it would be a 9A. Why? Because I have veiwed an upside
down world enough in my day (sorry Bill Shook) and the ease of building,
larger cockpit, better down visibility, and slower landing speed (9 out of 40
is a lots of energy difference to dissipate in an aborted landing, i.e.
crash). Am tempted to order one before the end of the year to avoid the
annual price increase. I'm sure the price of Al is going to jump a ton this
week with the price of electric going out the sky!
Bernie Kerr, 6A 60 hours, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Kroeger sunshade adhesive ? |
My sunshade adhesive is not sticking. Anyone else having this problem and
what is a safe adhesive to use to stick it back. Also what is a safe
cleansing agent to prepare it for re-applying?
Maybe it was the hot day(80 degrees) we had for our flyin breakfast here at
Treasure Coast Airpark last Sat that did it in:>)
Bernie Kerr, 6A, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel injection maintenace |
Doug,
About the only thing you can do is to pull the inlet strainer and
check/clean it. That and check that the controls and mounting hardware are
secure. Anything else pretty much requires the FI to be put on a bench test
unit at a repair station.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
>From: "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV List"
>Subject: RV-List: Fuel injection maintenace
>Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 15:16:27 -0600
>
>
>Fellow Listers and fuel injection experts:
>
>My recently purchased RV-4 is equipped with a standard Bendix fuel
>injection
>system. This is the first aircraft I have owned with FI. Is there any
>special preventive maintenance procedures that are done at annual on such a
>system?
>
>Many thanks
>
>Doug Weiler
>MN Wing
>
>================
>Doug Weiler
>Hudson, WI
>715-386-1239
>dougweil(at)pressenter.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
I did not try them on a -6, but do have them on my -8. They are very easy
to install and work well, but I did not care for the customer service. You
can see pictures on my web site.
>
>Hello to all.
>A question for a mate:- Has any one on the list tried the "Skybolt" Cam
>Loc installation on an RV-6 cowls. It sure looks like a convenient way to
>remove and replace cowls when needed.
>Best regards.
>Les Rowles.
>Traralgon Australia.
>
>
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo
(570)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com> |
I am using them across the top and bottom of my cowling and am very
pleased with
them. They look good too but are a bit on the expensive side.
I'm using hinges along the fore and aft split with the pin removeable
from the rear
in the NACA air scoop. I'm also using vertical hinges on the lower aft
end of the
cowl.
Regards,
Tony Castellano
tcastella(at)juno.com
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6 N401TC
writes:
>
>Hello to all.
>A question for a mate:- Has any one on the list tried the "Skybolt"
>Cam
>Loc installation on an RV-6 cowls. It sure looks like a convenient
>way to
>remove and replace cowls when needed.
>Best regards.
>Les Rowles.
>Traralgon Australia.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: timing mags to engine |
Scott,
I'm going to try to explain this from memory, my books are at the hanger and
if you would like you can call me at home tomorrow night. 334 598 6226.
1. Establish top dead center on the compression stroke. 2 ways gear ring to
starter or gear ring to top of crank case split.
2. I like timing the right mag first and synchronizing the left to the right.
With the harness on the mag, mags hot, rotate the gear till you get a spark
on the #1 cyl. It helps to have 2 people, one to hole the spark plug lead
1/16 away form a ground. Stop when you have the spark and insert the
pin(slicks) in L hole. Your mags should be left hand rotation and may have
to back it up 1/4 of a inch to find the hole.
3. Insert the mag, snug, and remove pin. Use caution and do turn prop or mag
with pin in.
4. I'm assuming the L mag has the impulse coupler, if so with the harness
installed rotate till you have fire on the #1 cly lead. Insert pin in L
hole, again you may need to turn the gear back a little to find the hole.
Install mag,snug, and remove pin.
5. Pull prop thru till you snap the coupler, rotate back, to 25 degrees from
top dead center and time right mag. Synchronize left to the right.
Keep in mind this is from memory and it's been a while.
Blue Skies,
Carey Mills,
RV4, 10.2hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
>
>Van uses FAR 23 as his design standard for the structure. He doesn't
>have to do that, but he does because FAR 23 has proven to be a good
>structural design standard.
>
>Kevin,
>
>Since we're talking about FAR 23 standards, what changes would have to be
>made to an RV if it actually was to be certified?
>
>I notice that the certified Zenith CH2000, which is based on the Zodiac
>series of homebuilts, has quite a few changes. For example, the bubble
>canopy has been replaced by a cabin with an aluminum roof and the single
>stick has been replaced with dual yokes.
>
>
>Mark Schrimmer
>RV-9A
>Irvine, CA
>
Mark,
I'm not qualified to speak to all aspects of FAR 23 as my specialty
is flight testing. I have knowledge of the other portions of FAR 23,
but I have never got down and got my hands dirty trying to approve a
design to those parts.
I don't have much stick time in RVs, so the following comments are
not necessarily 100% correct.
FAR 23.155 requires a minimum stick force of 15 lb to pull limit g
(6g), starting with the aircraft in trim (this is paraphrased, and I
left out some details). This might be a problem at aft CG. Aircraft
that meet FAR 23 generally have higher stick forces, which makes them
less fun to fly. Van made a conscious decision to forgo the FAR 23
approach in this area, in the search of a pleasant flying aircraft.
I think he made the right decision.
FAR 23.173 and .175 detail the longitudinal stability requirements.
I haven't done the tests to assess compliance in this area, but it
might be a problem at aft CG.
FAR 23.207 requires a clear and distinctive stall warning. The RV-4
and -6 that I flew came nowhere close to meeting this requirement.
Artificial stall warning would be required.
FAr 23.221 has detailed spin requirements. The reports I have read
of some RV-6 spins seem to indicate it might not meet the
requirements for approved spinning. You need to meet these
requirements to be approved in the aerobatic or utility category,
otherwise you don't get approved for aerobatics. The other RV models
are probably OK.
The above gripes don't mean the RVs are bad aircraft. Quite the
contrary - they are darned good aircraft. If they flew like FAR 23
spam cans many of us would be building something else. Not all FAR
23 aircraft are bad though - I'm still waiting to get my hands on an
SF260 someday.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Fit(s!) |
Mark,
Your description sounds as though your tank skin is either too long(?)
in the cord direction and needs to be trimmed where it buts against the
main skin (if your main bottom and/or top skins are in place) OR, the
shop heads of the rivets at the tank rear baffle flange(s) are
interfering with the forward flange of the spar. If it is the tank skin,
you may be able to check to see if it will overlap the main skin. Or, if
the main skin(s) is(are) clecoed in place, remove it(them) and see if
the tank skin extends beyond the edge of the main skin. If that is the
case, you can shave the edges of the tank skin until it can be lowered
to fit the splice plate.
If it is the shop heads of the rivets, there will be a solid stop when
you lower the tank onto the spar.
Good luck!
Richard Dudley
RV-6A Fuselage
Mark Phillips wrote:
>
>
> Here we go...
>
> I am attempting to fit my tank and cannot get the skin to match well at
> the LE. The fit is almost perfect on the entire bottom and around the
> front of the joint, but about one inch above the front (about where the
> front top rivet for the splice plate is) rearward for about 3", the LE
> skin becomes lower than the tank skin, about 1.5mm at the worst point,
> then becomes flush again at about the fourth splice rivet. All ribs are
> flush to the spar (LE) and baffle (tank) and the skins are nicely mated
> to the ribs. The LE is already rivetted together and to the spar, so I
> can't shim the skin/splice out away from the inboard LE rib without
> removing these 3 or 4 rivets and somehow bucking the rivets through the
> rib lightening hole, (what kind of bar would I have to conjure up for
> THAT!) or by using (GASP!) pop rivets. It does appear the LE skin is
> lower here than it should be as indicated by a straightedge placed along
> the skin parallel to the spar. It appears I bent this area of the LE
> downward slightly as I set the rivets in the rib/splice plate.
>
> Anybody had this problem, what magical solution(s) could you offer?
> If the problem is unclear (and you're still interested!) please let me
> know.
>
> Thanks-
> >From the PossumWorks in TN
> Mark - (badly) massaging the metal on my -6A's right wing...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More RV6 vs RV9 |
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Whitaker <rmwhitaker(at)lanl.gov>
Subject: RV-List: More RV6 vs RV9
. How about some opinions (particularly from you aerodynamicist types)
>with
>regard to the cross country attributes of the 6 vs the 9 at these
altitudes.
>
>With O-320's under the hood, 6 and 9 cruise speeds are roughly equivalent
>at 8,000 ft msl. Are there speed advantages at the higher altitudes with
>respect to wing
>loading, wing aspect ratio, induced drag, etc.? How about turbulence? Would
>one
>plane suffer significantly more than the other with regard to light to
>moderate turbulence?
>Regards,
>Rob
Rob: I concur with what has been said with regard your above questions.
Increasing aspect ratio (if everything else remains the same-though it never
does, quite) should increase rate of climb, ceiling, and max L/D. What we
don't know about the RV-9A is the airfoil data. With the earlier RV's
section data is available, sort of. We don't know anything about the slope
of the lift curve, max lift coefficient or the pitching moment coefficient.
If Van has done any performance testing at altitude he would be the best
source of comparitive data. One would suspect that the -9 would be better
at altitude. I would also wonder about how the stability changes with
increasing altitude. My -4 is less stable as altitude increases and it
requires more attention to hold altitude accurately at, say, 13,500' than it
does near sea level. Again, one would guess that the -9, having somewhat
greater stability than the -4, would be less work at high altitude. I don't
know the maneuvering speed of the -9 but it is surely lower than the others.
It should produce a good ride in turbulence, unlike a Lancair 360 which
feels like you're running over tar strips on a not smooth road. It would be
worthwhile to find out what Van knows about these things.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Baggage Bin floors etc. |
Yea, but does it get as many questions and comments as your trick "swing
down" landing light?
> I'll try to get a couple of shots up on the web. I always get a lot of
comments about it at airshows, like "why didn't I think of that"
>
> Laird RV-6
> SoCal
> From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Tue, Dec 12, 2000 3:53 PM
> Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Baggage Bin floors etc.
> To: RV- List
>
>
> The RV-6 plans specify pop rivets to install the baggage bin floors and
> seat bottoms.
> It would appear that if the floors were secured using plate nuts, it
> would be easy to remove them
> if necessary somewhere down the line i.e. maybe for inspection.
>
> Has anyone considered this, or is the general consensus that using plate
> nuts would just be
> unnecessary extra work, added weight etc. with no value added.
> Looking for any comments and/or suggestions.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kroeger sunshade adhesive ? |
Bernie, 3M contact adhesive (the sticky yellow stuff) should work great for
just about any adhesive job you've got that doesn't contact oil and fuel.
I've used it many times and it works great. With few exceptions, I dilute
it with some MEK and use a brush to apply it to both surfaces. Let it dry
until it is slightly tack and you should have a nice bond.
Mike
> what is a safe adhesive to use to stick it back. Also what is a safe
> cleansing agent to prepare it for re-applying?
>
> Maybe it was the hot day(80 degrees) we had for our flyin breakfast here
at
> Treasure Coast Airpark last Sat that did it in:>)
>
> Bernie Kerr, 6A, SE Fla
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | AeroElectric-List(at)matronics.com |
I hadn't seen anything about this new ListGroup on this list so I
thought I'd pass the word.
Apparently, Bob Nuckolls has struck a deal with Matt to create an
AeroElectric-List and he outlines his reasons why on his website.
http://aeroelectric.com
I think it makes tons of sense for Bob to go this route and I look
forward to subscribing to the list.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
Skinning the Wings
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
Check the following link a picture of camlocks on a Sam James RV-8 Cowl.
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/images/RV8_SamJames_Cowl.JPG
Mike Nellis - RV-6 N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
Skinning the Wings
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Les Rowles" <lmrowles(at)netspace.net.au>
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 2:22 PM
Subject: RV-List: Skybolt.
>
> Hello to all.
> A question for a mate:- Has any one on the list tried the "Skybolt" Cam
> Loc installation on an RV-6 cowls. It sure looks like a convenient way to
> remove and replace cowls when needed.
> Best regards.
> Les Rowles.
> Traralgon Australia.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: extension cord... |
Daniel,
The simple answer is that as you increase extension cord length you increase
the total resistance of that cord. If you increase the resistance, you
decrease the current which will decrease the available voltage that the
motor needs to run the compressor. Therefore, it is better to run a longer
hose. It's easier on the motor and more efficient.
Click here for a more detailed explanation of the relationship of E
(voltage) I (current) and R (resistance).
http://library.advanced.org/10139/small/electro3.html
Someone might chime in and tell you that if you run a longer hose you will
have more surface area for the hose to expand and the motor will have to run
harder.......etc. It's insignificant.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Daniel Estrada F." <dani_estrada(at)infosel.net.mx>
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 5:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: extension cord...
>
> Why in a compressor must be use a longer air hose instead an electric
> extension...?
>
> thanks
>
>
> Daniel Estrada
> Mexico City
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Baggage Bin floors etc. |
Hi all,
I just added some shots of my baggage compartments to the SoCal RV web page.
You can see them at:
http://members3.clubphoto.com/socal230330/RV-6_Builders_album/
While I was at it I added my GPS antenna mount, my trick idea for the left rear
baffle (really, I thought of it myself. I had 120 hrs on my RV before I saw
that Scott McDaniels had done it on the factory RV-9a).
Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 150 hrs
O-360, Sensenich (83)
Simi Valley, SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Last issue of Rvators. |
In a message dated 12/12/00 1:12:23 PM Pacific Standard Time,
emorcill(at)worldonline.es writes:
<< Up to now, I only received the first and second issue of 2000 Rvators.
What is the last issue received by yours? >>
I just received the Fourth 2000 issue a few weeks back.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Routing Mixture Cable |
In a message dated 12/12/00 10:08:21 AM Pacific Standard Time,
charleyb(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< Do the firewall holes for the mixture/throttle/prop need to be drilled
before the engine is hung? How hard is it to get to the firewall to
drill holes after the engine is installed? >>
A right angle drill helps to locate center holes first and you can easily
chase them out from inside in most areas.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Koger sunshade adhesive ? |
In a message dated 12/12/00 6:04:52 PM Pacific Standard Time, Rv660wm(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< My sunshade adhesive is not sticking. Anyone else having this problem and
what is a safe adhesive to use to stick it back. Also what is a safe
cleansing agent to prepare it for reapplying? >>
The 3M double stick tapes (black with a light blue release liner) work very
well. You can clean with naphtha (Coleman Lantern fluid). This is another
advantage the slider has over the tilt-up (you can rivet the Koger track to
the center tube) ;
).
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: FAB orientation |
In a message dated 12/12/00 5:17:35 PM Pacific Standard Time,
doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com writes:
<< For those who have installed Van's filtered air box... the instructions
note that the FAB is orientated 5 degrees to the right. Correct me if I am
wrong, but shouldn't this be orientated to the left to compensate for the
fact that the engine is canted to the right, thus aligning the FAB straight
ahead? >>
No. The prop flange and the ram air intake are on the aircraft centerline.
To cant the engine right, the rest of the engine behind the flange (including
the carb) is to the left of centerline, therefore you need to compensate the
FAB to the right. You can do this by angling or by building a more offset
FAB to carb mounting plate. This is what I did, although it still is not an
absolutely straight shot back to the carb inlet for the ram air.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brown Aviation Tool - ADV. |
I'd like to order 150 3/32" clecoes and 50 1/8" clecoes.
$0.29 each
Thank you
Steve Hurlbut
PO Box 381
Lazo, BC, Canada
V0R 2K0
(250) 339-0571
shurlbut(at)island.net
----- Original Message -----
From: <BrownTool(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2000 7:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: Brown Aviation Tool - ADV.
>
> Advertisement...
>
> Just a quick note to remind everyone of our SALE on Spring Clecos which
> expires on 12-31-00 when new year prices will go into effect...
>
> All four popular sizes of Spring Clecos are on sale for only .29 each!!
> (Normally .33 each) Our clecos are Kwik-Lok brand, made by Zephyr Tools
in
> the good ol USA.
>
> For more info visit our website and go to the " Kwik-Lok" section of our
> on-line catalog at: www.browntool.com
>
> On behalf of all six of us here at Brown Aviation Tool Supply, we wish all
of
> you a very happy holiday season and the most prosperous and healthy new
year.
>
> Happy Holidays!
>
> Michael Brown
> Brown Aviation Tool Supply Co.
> Oklahoma City, OK
>
> www.browntool.com
> browntool(at)aol.com
> 1-800-587-3883
> 405-688-6888
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
Wrong address.
I meant to mail my order for clecoes to Brown Tools.
The credit card number is no good.
Dumb
Steve Hurlbut
Comox, BC
shurlbut(at)island.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Van's Parking Brake Valve RV6A |
RV6A
I've had my parking brake valve for about six months now and finally got
around to installing it. Mine didn't come with any instructions or advice
but it is really quite simple when you have one to examine. Single or dual
brakes will both work with one of these valves. Biggest downfall is that
they are made from a small block of steel. It has some weight to it.
I mounted mine on the side of the governor indentation in the lower left
corner. I set it up so the flow is downward. Two AN3 bolts hold it on with
their heads in the engine compartment. I am now making new lines to the wing
roots.
I used the two holes on the side for input from the left pedals. The first
fitting I used was a AN822-4D 90 degree pointed straight up. The second one
didn't have enough room to spin on so I used an AN823-4D with a 45 degree.
On the bottom (outputs) I used two AN816-4D fittings to flow straight down.
These attach to the new lines I am now making.
I am now searching for a high quality cable/lever combination. I would like
to have a locking one or some kind of funky throw over lever with locking
detents. Does any one have any suggestions?
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
| Subject: | For Sale: MT prop..etc.. |
I have the following items I wish to part with. I am located in Mesa, AZ
(Phoenix). There are alot of RV's being built and flying in the area, so
if you are interested in anything I am sure you could network with a
trusted soul (for inspection) if you are out of State.
MTV-2-B-C propeller serial no. 86047.....Blade model 193-02
This is a two blade MT prop with the earlier style McCauley hub (easy
part availability in the U.S.). The weight is approx. 47 lbs. and the
blades are just back from Germany after full overhaul/inspection
(documented). The Hub is "like new".... everything is assembled and
ready to go. This prop is designed for 180-230 hp Lycoming
engines....spinner is not included but is readily available (McCauley)
in alum, fiberglass, and carbon fiber. $5000.00 OBO
Sensenich metal prop---polished Serial no. 17036k model 76EM8-0-65
the prop has not been cut down but it is stamped "Exp."....I had it
repitch to 65" from 60" and it is overstamped. It is in very good
condition (no nicks..etc..) and is designed for 180 hp Lycoming engines.
$600
Christen inverted oil valve and separator....used....works fine...$300
for both ..OBO
For the guy looking for a GPU receptacle "Cessna oval type"
$25
Vernier control 5' prop (black)10-32 threaded end $30
" " 6' mixture (red)" " $30 both
$50
ACS flush fuel cap/ ring..new............................$15
ACS gascolator...new....with bracket..................$ 25
Chris .. clhuey(at)sprynet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas E. Bostard" <dougacft(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 12/11/00 |
Re: Pitch and roll sensiteve: I have noted my 6A in cruise will gain
or lose a thou feet when I'm not looking just because my lunch has
passed from my stomach to my lower intestines.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | slick mag question |
Got a question for firewall forward vets. I'm doing the wiring on the 8 and
I've come across something that has me stumped. Using a continuity meter, I'm
getting a reading from the p-lead terminal to the case ground screw on my new
Slick mag. (Impulse coupler, left side only. Got electronic ignition on the
right).
Shouldn't the p-lead terminal be isolated from the case ground unless I have
the p lead wire hooked up and grounded through the ignition switch?
Is there some kind of safety mechanism in a new Slick mag that keeps it
grounded until it is removed or something? I haven't pulled the cap off or
anything yet.
I'll soon be bald if I keep scratching my head,
Keith
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "<Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com> |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with ESMTP id
for" ;
Wed,
13 Dec 2000 08:27:36.-0500(at)matronics.com
12/13/2000 08:28:11 AM
My hanger mate had camlocks and they were great. He reinforced everything
with metal epoxied in before installing the camlocks. BUT, ....... that was
the old poly cowl. Now the cowl is a honeycomb. I am not sure if this will
matter with camlocks or not. If you find an answer, please post it on the
list as I'm really up in the air about this one. Of course, no place I'd
rather be, up in the air that is.
Eric
Les Rowles (at)matronics.com on 12/12/2000 02:22:11
PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Skybolt.
Hello to all.
A question for a mate:- Has any one on the list tried the "Skybolt" Cam
Loc installation on an RV-6 cowls. It sure looks like a convenient way to
remove and replace cowls when needed.
Best regards.
Les Rowles.
Traralgon Australia.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | External Power Receptacle |
Norman,
I installed the Piper style plug in the floor just behind the battery
box. It is hot wired directly too the battery (i.e., no over current
protection. In hind site, I might add in an in-line fuse similar to what
Electric Bob recommends for alternator wiring..)
The Piper plug has the small spring loaded door, so it's always covered.
The wire connection end has a rubber boot to protect against shorts. I've
had to jump start twice in 7.5 Yrs of operation, both due to the failure to
shut off the master.
Also, inside the cabin in the area between the battery box and the spare
box, I added what looks like a shoe box cover as a floor. This is held in
place by #8 screws through the floor stringers into nutplates on the inside
of the "shoe box cover" floor. I insulated with 1/2" of closed cell foam
between the fuselage skin and the floor. The Piper style plug protrudes
though this floor. I also mounted my strobe power supply in this area just
in front of the spar box and fuel selector valve. A piece of tygon tubing
was laid from this area, under the battery box, and up the firewall, to
provide an easy conduit for strobe power wiring and other wires that needed
to be routed from the firewall back to the spar box area....
Hope that helps...
Fred Stucklen
N925RV (1680 hrs/7.5 Yrs)
E. Windsor, CT 06088
WK Email: stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com
Hm/Travel Email: wstucklen1(at)juno.com
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: RV-List: External Power Receptacle
I would like to have an external power receptacle on my RV6A. In the
Spruce
catalog page 351 there seems to be two ways to go. A round Piper one
and an
oval standard one. Which is best?
The piper with the other end is $51 and the oval with wood jumper
end is
$89. ( I count the pieces to make up my own cables)
Do most FBO's have both ends?
Which one is lighter?
Regards,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Begnaud" <Shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More RV6 vs RV9 |
Rob,
I don't know anything about aerodynamics, but I have flown several -6's and
the new -9 twice. There was turbulence on every flight and I can attest to
the fact that the -9 handles turbulence better (more stable). The -9 is
quite simply a much better cross country machine than the -6. Having said
that, I would still have no objection to doing cross country trips in a -6.
The reasons we chose the -9 is primarily for country trips. With the O-320
you get an extra 150 lbs of gross weight rating over the -6, more head and
leg room, more baggage capacity (weight wise, not area). Also, the slower
stall speed was considered a plus.
Regards,
Cliff
RV9A empennage, wings for christmas
Erie, CO
>
> I've been an observer of this list off and on for several years now. The
> discussions
> of the various attributes of the RV6 vs the RV6 have been of particular
> interest to
> me because I've narrowed my choice of home built aircraft down to one of
> these two.
>
> Because of the mountainous areas here in New Mexico and the western
states, it
> seems that one should plan on flying at cross country altitudes of 10,500
> ft msl and
> above. How about some opinions (particularly from you aerodynamicist
types)
> with
> regard to the cross country attributes of the 6 vs the 9 at these
altitudes.
>
> With O-320's under the hood, 6 and 9 cruise speeds are roughly equivalent
> at 8,000 ft msl. Are there speed advantages at the higher altitudes with
> respect to wing
> loading, wing aspect ratio, induced drag, etc.? How about turbulence?
Would
> one
> plane suffer significantly more than the other with regard to light to
> moderate turbulence?
>
> What say you out there?
>
> Regards,
> Rob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
12/13/2000 09:16:43
The Skybolt catalog for some years now show a pictorial tutorial (right in
their parts catalog) on installing the adjustable camlocks on a
RV.....Check it out
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "EXT-Richard, Emmanuelle J" <Emmanuelle.Richard(at)PSS.Boeing.com> |
All the items below are NEW, never been used, unless stated otherwise. Selling
them as I decided on different configurations for my RV4. As far as price, make
reasonnable offer.
- Carburetor P/N 71710. Brand new in the box (from O-360-A1A), never even mounted.
- Engine driven fuel pump with gasket. Brand new (from O-360-A1A).
- Oil cooler core - Stewart Warner model 8432-E. Looks a bit beat up.
- Seat belts for RV4 (2 sets) - AMSafe model 9600-3, color Grey: 4 point (lap
belt with airliner type buckle and shoulder harness). New.
- Constant Speed Cowlings for RV4 + cheek cowls + extra scoop. New.
- Chromed manual flaps torque tube
- Fuel selector valve - Imperial, 3 positions, with 2 90 degree MS fittings.
New.
- Gascolator P/N 10544-1. New.
- Fuel pump - Facet 12V. New.
- Com antenna, bent whip. New.
- Dual CHT/EGT gauge + probes - Westach. New.
- Dual Oil pressure/Oil temperature gauge - Westach. New.
- Dual Volt/Amps gauge - Westach. New.
- Fuel gauges (quantity 2) + mounting brackets - Isspro. New.
Emmanuelle J. Richard
Tel (425) 294 4635
Email emmanuelle.j.richard(at)boeing.com
(located in Seattle)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FAB orientation |
doug
the carburator is about 1 inch to the left on the engine, by pointing the air
box to thr right it will line up with the scoop.
scott
tampa
rv6a finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel injection maintenace |
12/13/2000 10:26:03
There is the "coke bottle test" I've done on occasion where you test the
flow rate or metering of the nozzles. Simply put-- you testing for a equal
flow ammount of liquid gas exiting your nozzles. (By squirting the gas
into four equal bottles for a given ammount of time to verify you have
equal flow ammounts.) Hoopes gun cleaner/solvent disolves the lead buildup
if there is any......other then this all my FI systems have been
bulletproof. I mention the coke bottle test as a maintenance test tool, not
so much a annual thing to do. If I suspected any problems I would start
here. Soaking the injector lines & nozznes cleared up any problems & ever
had....
"Doug Weiler"
com> cc:
Sent by: Subject: RV-List: Fuel
injection maintenace
owner-rv-list-server@mat
ronics.com
12/12/2000 04:16 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
Fellow Listers and fuel injection experts:
My recently purchased RV-4 is equipped with a standard Bendix fuel
injection
system. This is the first aircraft I have owned with FI. Is there any
special preventive maintenance procedures that are done at annual on such a
system?
Many thanks
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Parking Brake Valve RV6A |
In a message dated 12/12/00 10:44:43 PM Pacific Standard Time,
nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes:
<< I am now searching for a high quality cable/lever combination. I would like
to have a locking one or some kind of funky throw over lever with locking
detents. Does any one have any suggestions? >>
I used one of the simple ACS ratcheting type push/pull cables and it works
fine. Always stays where I put it.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Baggage Bin floors etc. |
For my baggage floors, I simply drilled out and nutplated where the poprivet
was gonna go (I'm doing a QB).
For my seat floors, I used three rows across for each of the two "sections"
(remember - you got that bend...) with one row at each end of the section
and one row in the middle of the section.
The only thing to watch out for is the aftmost seat retainer hinge section
as it fits right along that row of nutplates.
I used the same screw diameter as the nutplates that hold the other parts of
the baggage floor and rear bulkhead. I changed them out also. I used
dimpled nutplates with dimpled structural (AN509-8R8, I think) screws
(since the pop rivets were to be structural type also).
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dalski, Dave" <dave.dalski(at)eds.com> |
| Subject: | For Sale: Orndoff RV-8 Videos |
I have the following George Orndoff RV-8 construction videos for sale:
fuselage (2 tapes), wings (2 tapes), finish kit and wingtip lighting PLUS
Van's RV Story tape. $100 for all, I will pay shipping in the continental
U.S.
Please contact me off list.
Dave Dalski (972) 797-3350
* mailto: dave.dalski(at)eds.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 3" Adel Clamps |
pcondon(at)csc.com said:
> I used a adel clamp rubber cushion wrapped around a standard large
> stainless hose clamp.
On my Vetterman exhaust hangars, the aluminum adel clamps supplied to hang
the pipes from the engine mount broke so I fabricated new ones out of
stainless steel. Took a regular adel clamp and flattened it out and used it
as a template to make the new ones, and re-used the cushion. The stainless I
used was from an RV-3 fuel tank strap -- just the right thickness and
malleability for the job.
Note: this is not intended to flame Vetterman, -- his exhaust system is top
notch. Just passing on a tip about the clamps.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Parking Brake Valve RV6A |
>
> I used the two holes on the side for input from the left pedals. The first
> fitting I used was a AN822-4D 90 degree pointed straight up. The second
one
> didn't have enough room to spin on so I used an AN823-4D with a 45 degree.
> On the bottom (outputs) I used two AN816-4D fittings to flow straight
down.
> These attach to the new lines I am now making.
>
> I am now searching for a high quality cable/lever combination. I would
like
> to have a locking one or some kind of funky throw over lever with locking
> detents. Does any one have any suggestions?
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
I used ACS's push pull control with a center locking button. Works great.
Doug
RV-4 finishing
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Fairing Hole Plugs |
> What are folks doing to fill the holes in Van's nose wheel fairing? I see
> Cleveland sells a 3/4" plug.
Don't have a nosewheel but if you're talking about the hole for the air
filler -- I got some little spring-loadded jobbies from Aircraft Spruce and
used those on my main gear. I'm sure H/W store hole plugs work fine but it's
nice to not have to pry the plug out.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | For Sale: Orndoff RV-6/A quickbuild Videos |
I have the RV6 Quick Build videos for sale.
If interested contact me of line.
lucky
(610) 591-5532
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
"RV-LIST"
| Subject: | Flap Support Brace Outboard Side |
Folks,
While working on the left wing, I noticed that the outboard end of the flap
support brace runs over the splice plate where the aileron pushrod hole is
drilled thru. It looks like I should notch this and/or bend to fit like the
inboard end is done. Anyone else seen this - and how did you resolve it?
Nothing in the archives or the instructions about the outer end
I can't be the first to run into this one...
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry <bpote(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | of scothbrite wheels and other things |
Here's something I haven't seen on anyones web site.
I think it is trick.
My scothbrite wheel is mounted on a bolted down bench grinder.
I made several accessories for it. The 1st is a board with a
hole cut in it slightly bigger than the diameter of the wheel.
A 2nd ,small board, for the base is screwed onto the 1st board with
sheet rock screws. A couple of holes through the base are used to bnolt
it down to the table top. Turn the upright board with the big hole in
it, so that it is at angle to the wheel. Using the upright board as a
rest or stop, you can easily glide your parts across the wheel at an
angle. This eliminates those deep groves in the wheel! It adds an
element of safety as well, because it is easier to control the part.
The 2nd part clamps onto the above unit. It is a board that is parallel
to the top of the table. Attach with clamps to the upright board and you
have a rest to sit things like nose ribs on, 90 degrees to the side of
the wheel. Easily get rid of those nose rib nose bumps.
I'll send a picture, if you email me.
Barry Pote RV9a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 12/11/00 |
Your 6 is not the problem.Trim it right and pay closer attentoin.You are
using a lot of energy going up and down 1000 feet each way.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Support Brace Outboard Side |
--- "Ralph E. Capen" wrote:
>
>
> Folks,
>
> While working on the left wing, I noticed that the outboard end of
> the flap
> support brace runs over the splice plate where the aileron pushrod
> hole is
> drilled thru. It looks like I should notch this and/or bend to fit
> like the
> inboard end is done. Anyone else seen this - and how did you resolve
> it?
Notch it and drive on.
You're doing fine.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: alternator numbers |
| From: | b green <rvinfo(at)juno.com> |
As reported by others, the number on the box is 14129. There is a number
on the alternator that is 056682. Van's part number is 14184 which is
the number you have for the 78-79 Honda. Are you saying that the Honda
alternator is the same in exterior dimensions so would bolt up the same??
>
> The 14129 is:
> Looks like it fits a 70-74 Toyota Corolla & 70-72 Toyota Pockup.
> External REgulation , 2 pivot legs, 12:00 adjusting arm ( the mount
> is at
> 6:00). viewed from rear.
> 156 mm between holes, 118 mm stator OD.
> It is Only 30 amps.
>
> The 14184 is simular at 35 amps. (76-79 Honda Civic)
>
> My 14118 50 amp is 175 mm. IT is clocked at 12:00. I can't find
> anything
> in this book at 50 or above that is not that size.
> I plan on added a bump to the cowling. Vans adjusting arm is too
> short &
> the fan almost hits the flywheel. If I can't find the right belt, I
> will
> have to build a longer bracket.
>
> Don Jordan RV6A Arlington, Tx
> *****************************************
> writes:
> >
> >
> > 14129
> >
> > Bob Japundza
> > RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 64 hours
> >
> > > Bruce:
> > > Get me the ARC or REF or Lester number off it. I have a
> > > catalog. I may be
> > > aBLE TO CROOS REF it.
> > >
> > > Don Jordan RV6A Arlington, Tx
> > > *****************************************
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: FAB orientation |
Right or left is from the pilots seat not standing in front looking at
the prop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
Wondered what you guys used to cut out the opening in your side skins for
the NACA air vents. If I use the nibbler, looks like a lot of filing to
get it all smoothed out. Wonder if Avery has some special tool that would
make it a snap to cut out.
Regards
Tom (determined to make Oskosh 2001) Velvick
Peoria, AZ
rv-6a finish kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NACA air vents |
I used a Dremel with a cut-off wheel then with a sanding drum. Came out
great.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
>From: Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: NACA air vents
>Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 12:15:19 -0700
>
>
>Wondered what you guys used to cut out the opening in your side skins for
>the NACA air vents. If I use the nibbler, looks like a lot of filing to
>get it all smoothed out. Wonder if Avery has some special tool that would
>make it a snap to cut out.
>
>Regards
>Tom (determined to make Oskosh 2001) Velvick
>Peoria, AZ
>rv-6a finish kit.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: External Power Receptacle |
>I would like to have an external power receptacle on my RV6A....
The one time I needed an "external power" source was the one time I was
doing some testing and left the master on. Idiot. I needed to charge the
battery, which is cleverly hidden under my radio stack. I had installed a
power access port in the area of the foot well, left front cockpit.
Access port: a electric trailer quick-disconnect from Pepboys (or where
ever). Female installed in the airplane, male I carry in my tool kit. $9, 3
ounces, I think. Will it provide enough power to start the engine? No. But
it is an easy access to recharge the battery. I did find there still has to
be a cover on the receptacle in the airplane as, if you have on your Nomex
suit and a zipper comes in contact with the leads it will spark some. The
things you don't plan on.
It depends on what you need your power receptacle to do.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
>
> My hanger mate had camlocks and they were great. He reinforced everything
> with metal epoxied in before installing the camlocks. BUT, ....... that
was
> the old poly cowl. Now the cowl is a honeycomb. I am not sure if this will
> matter with camlocks or not.
I can't see where this would make any difference since the borders of the
cowl (on the 8, at least) are not honeycomb. I'm installing camlocks only
across the bottom aft portion of the lower cowl - three on each side,
instead of the hinges called for here. I seem to remember problems with
cracking hinges in this area. I considered installing just platenuts and
screws here, but the total cost for six camlocks was small - about $16 for
the 2700 series studs, receptacles and washers from Spruce.
Jerry Carter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NACA air vents |
Die grinder and a small file.
> Wondered what you guys used to cut out the opening in your side skins for
> the NACA air vents. If I use the nibbler, looks like a lot of filing to
> get it all smoothed out.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Hartwell Nylatch |
Does anyone know where I could get these Nylatch fasteners that Hartwell
makes. I think they would be a Jim-dandy lightweight way to latch my fuse
panel closed. You can see them here:
http://www.hartwellcorp.com/2piece.asp
<http://www.hartwellcorp.com/2piece.asp>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel injection maintenace |
I recently acquired a std. Bendix FI system and would like to know what you
used to soak the lines and nozzles in for cleaning and what is the
recommendation for preserving the injector body while I complete building my
ship.
Marty in Brentwood TN.
----- Original Message -----
From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2000 9:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel injection maintenace
>
> There is the "coke bottle test" I've done on occasion where you test the
> flow rate or metering of the nozzles. Simply put-- you testing for a equal
> flow ammount of liquid gas exiting your nozzles. (By squirting the gas
> into four equal bottles for a given ammount of time to verify you have
> equal flow ammounts.) Hoopes gun cleaner/solvent disolves the lead
buildup
> if there is any......other then this all my FI systems have been
> bulletproof. I mention the coke bottle test as a maintenance test tool,
not
> so much a annual thing to do. If I suspected any problems I would start
> here. Soaking the injector lines & nozznes cleared up any problems & ever
> had....
>
>
> "Doug Weiler"
> <doug.weiler@pressenter. To: "RV List"
> com> cc:
> Sent by: Subject: RV-List:
Fuel injection maintenace
> owner-rv-list-server@mat
> ronics.com
>
>
> 12/12/2000 04:16 PM
> Please respond to
> rv-list
>
>
> Fellow Listers and fuel injection experts:
>
> My recently purchased RV-4 is equipped with a standard Bendix fuel
> injection
> system. This is the first aircraft I have owned with FI. Is there any
> special preventive maintenance procedures that are done at annual on such
a
> system?
>
> Many thanks
>
> Doug Weiler
> MN Wing
>
> ================
> Doug Weiler
> Hudson, WI
> 715-386-1239
> dougweil(at)pressenter.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NACA air vents |
>
> Did I mention I LOVE MY Dremel?
>
I went through 3 Dremel in building my plane. My trusty 1970s vintage Dremel
kicked the bucket somewhere during fuselage construction so I bought a new one
(Dremel that is). The new one was a piece of junk and lasted only a few times
before I tossed it in the garbage. The third one aint much better, not
compared to my '70s dremel. I'll stick with my die grinder.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Dremel Tools, was NACA air vents |
>I went through 3 Dremel in building my plane. My trusty 1970s vintage Dremel
kicked the bucket somewhere during fuselage construction so I bought a new one
(Dremel that is). The new one was a piece of junk and lasted only a few times
before I tossed it in the garbage. The third one aint much better, not
compared to my '70s dremel. I'll stick with my die grinder.
Gary Zilik<
I have had similar experiences with Dremel tools. They are basically
hobby-duty machines, and not even very good in that light use. If you are
looking for a quality 1/8" industrial grinder, try MSC or other equipment
supplier for the "Dumore" line of tools. They are powerful and extemely
smooth being made for the tool and die maker trade. I have one that dates
from the 1950s that is so much better than a Dremel it is hard to believe. A
new Dumore 1/8" die grinder is expensive, running about $150 I believe, but
you might be able to find a good one at a used tool supplier. The difference
is that the Dumore will last a working lifetime and you can leave to your
kids.
Andy Johnson, drilling fuselage skins if I ever get these damn shelves built
and the hardwood floor in my den laid.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NACA air vents |
> Wondered what you guys used to cut out the opening in your side skins for
> the NACA air vents. If I use the nibbler, looks like a lot of filing to
> get it all smoothed out. Wonder if Avery has some special tool that would
> make it a snap to cut out.
>
Tom,
I've made 1 piece main wing skins for my 8A. I laid the original wing skin
over my 1 piece skin and traced the NACA duct with a Sharpie pen onto my new
wing skin. I then used several various sized hole saws to remove most of the
metal inside the wide area of the duct. The narrow area I simply "chain
drilled" out about 1/4" undersized. I then cut to the INSIDE of the Sharpie
line with tin snips. I used my 1/4" right angle die grinder with the
ScotchBrite 2" disk to dress/smooth to the outside of the Sharpie lines. The
whole process took 15 minutes. Local RV-6 builder Eric Henson used the same
method to add an extra NACA duct on his fuselage. He was nervous at first, but
found that it works well and is very quick and easy.
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
I am a big admirer of the RV9A but would like to point out you give up a
few other things besides aerobatics if you choose this plane. There is
not a tip-up canopy or tailwheel option and, at this time, no quickbuild
option. The last item may not be very significant with the more advanced
9A kit.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
A tip up canopy is available, the quick(er) builds are in the works, and
a tail wheel version is still undecided.
Scott McDaniels
Aurora, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: NACA air vents |
> > Wondered what you guys used to cut out the opening in your side skins for
> > the NACA air vents. If I use the nibbler, looks like a lot of filing to
> > get it all smoothed out. Wonder if Avery has some special tool that would
> > make it a snap to cut out.
I traced out the shape, then drilled a 3/8" hole inside, near the edge.
Then I got my trusty jigsaw and cut to shape, followed by a bit of
filing to get it to shape. Finally, some filling to get a nice smooth
shape leading into the vent.
The jigsaw method is easier if you cut the hole out before you rivet the
skin to the fuselage.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
Like Eustace B., I was able to fly the RV-9A while at the homecoming last
fall. I concur with what he has said and offer some additional comments.
While the -9A resembles the -6A there are significant differences. The
wing
is of significantly higher aspect ratio (smaller chord and greater span)
and
uses a proprietary airfoil which I understand to have been designed by
John
Roncz. It uses slotted flaps which utilize a greater percentage of the
wing
trailing edge than the 4,6,8 series. The assembly method is different
where
instead of a folded trailing edge, the T.E. is riveted, resulting in a
sharper edge. The canopy resembles the canopy developed for the Nigerian
project and as such is higher than the -6. I believe the fuselage at the
cockpit to be a bit (perhaps 1") wider than the -6 and this, combined
with
the narrower wing and higher canopy produce better all round visibility
than
the others. The engine/prop combination is the smoothest and quietest in
my
experience. Ground handling resembles the Beech Musketeer in that it has
a
castering nosewheel, but rudder authority at low speeds is good (better
than
the Beech) and little braking is needed to taxi normally.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- - -
I entirely agree with Gordon but will clarify a couple of points.
The canopy is exactly the same as what is installed on an RV-6 or 6A, but
the fuselage is slightly different which positions the top of the canopy
a little higher. This allows the pilot to sit a bit higher in the
cockpit providing better over the nose vis., etc. A side benefit is that
it provides approx. 1" more overall head room available for taller
pilots.
The cockpit width is exactly the same as an RV-6 or 6A (remember it uses
the same canopy).
It does seem bigger because of the level of finish and openness of the
interior.
The overall fuse length is slightly longer (approx. 4 - 5 inches). This
provided 1" more leg room in the cockpit. Other changes in the fwd
fuselage allow for possibly 2 - 2 1/2" more leg room (relative to the fwd
most possible rudder peddle position) compared to the current kit for an
RV-6 or 6A.
The difference in building from an RV-6A kit or an RV-9A kit is hard to
compare.
There is a "huge" difference between the 2 kits are far as ease of
construction.
As already mentioned... the biggest consideration is weather you want to
do aerobatics.
Other than that one point the RV-9A is probably slightly superior in most
other respects.
But don't get the wrong idea. The RV-9A is no ho hum airplane. Any
pilot that has only flown production cessnapiperetc. will think it is
very sporty and responsive, but anyone with prior experience in another
model RV will notice that it is a little tamer.
Hope this helps
Scott McDaniels
Aurora, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartwell Nylatch |
Maybe......
http://www.fastenerindustry.com/Distweb/perlane.htm
http://www.conceptfasteners.com.au/home.htm
: "Van Artsdalen, Scott"
>
> Does anyone know where I could get these Nylatch fasteners that Hartwell
> makes. I think they would be a Jim-dandy lightweight way to latch my fuse
> panel closed. You can see them here:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
> But don't get the wrong idea. The RV-9A is no ho hum airplane.
> Any pilot that has only flown production cessnapiperetc. will think
> it is very sporty and responsive, but anyone with prior experience
> in another model RV will notice that it is a little tamer.
This is a really good point. Some people have said it's more of a "trainer"
and "better for low-time pilots.". I think that really gives the wrong
impression about the plane. I have flown the -9A and compared to my -6 it is
more docile. But if I think back to my pre-RV days, and imagine what it
would have been like to get behind the stick of a -9A -- I have no doubt I
would have been just as blown away by that as I was by my first ride in
a -6. Yes you give up aerobatics, but you gain efficiency, slow speed
handling, and better short field performance. Not to mention the fact that
it's easier to build. For someone not interested in aerobatics or a
tailwheel, it's hard to find reasons NOT to choose the -9A.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "<Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com> |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with ESMTP id
for" ;
Thu,
14 Dec 2000 08:38:13.-0500(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: NACA air vents |
12/14/2000 08:33:58 AM
Charlie is right, I thought he was nuts when he told me to do that with the
little scotch bright disk. I does work very well for filing down an edge.
Its extremely controllable and the finished line is smooth as a babys butt.
However, I still think Charlie is nuts.
Eric
Charlie Kuss (at)matronics.com on 12/13/2000 11:05:00
PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: NACA air vents
>> I used my 1/4" right angle die grinder with the
ScotchBrite 2" disk to dress/smooth to the outside of the Sharpie lines.
The
whole process took 15 minutes. Local RV-6 builder Eric Henson used the same
method to add an extra NACA duct on his fuselage. He was nervous at first,
but
found that it works well and is very quick and easy.
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | MAC Flap Sensor Picture? |
A while back, someone provided a very detailed picture with illustrations on
how they linked their MAC position sensor to their flaps. Does anyone have
it, or is that person still on the list?
Thanks...
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)tetric.com> |
| Subject: | Trailer or Hanger |
To All,
For Sale: 8' wide X 7' high X 24' long main floor deck with plenty of room
for a Kolb or other foldable plane - 8' wide X 8' long X 4' over the hitch
upper deck providing plenty of additional room for accessories, fuel,
tools, etc. - Enclosed Cargo Utility Trailer - 5th wheel (could be
gooseneck) hitch - steel frame & roof - white prepainted aluminum exterior
sides - Luan interior sides - plywood floor - spring/cable assist rear ramp
& curbside doors - tandem axle - spare tire - electric brakes -
interior/exterior lights - 2 years old - very few miles on tires - used as
a hanger for a Kolb MKIII - custom built for $8K plus TTL - want $6,500 -
located in central Texas. E-mail inquiries to striplic(at)tetric.com or
(830)693-9333.
Thanks!
Cliff Stripling
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dane3(at)ATTGLOBAL.NET> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming IO-360-C1E6 for sale |
Be aware that a IO-360C1E6 will not fit in a RV8a. I learned this somewhat
the hard way.
First thing is this engine is a rear breather. On mine I had the front of
the sump opened up and covered the back side with a steel plate. Then I go
to order the exhaust system. Well Larry Vetterman says he will gladly make
the exhaust system but my engine will not fit in a 8a . He was right,
Larry just saved me from another costly mistake. (thank you Larry). So now
I am on a hunt for IO360-A series sump and these are in short supply. I
did find a sump but no intake tubes. Three months later I found the tubes.
This engine might fit a RV-8, the problem is that the sump is set back on
this engine and it hits the nose gear.
(PS you need to change the starter)
Dane
RV-8A
IO-360 C/A series engine installed working on fuel lines
I guess I will get to fly off 40 hours instead of the 25hrs.
>
> Listers,
> A very honest and trustworthy local engine shop has a very nice angle
> valve (200 hp) Lycoming engine for sale. I am not connected with them in
> any way. I just thought someone out there (with more money than me)
> could find a home for it. Please contact Mark at Tropic Airpower
> directly.
>
> Charlie Kuss
> RV-8A finishing up wings and starting fuselage
> Boca Raton, Fl.
> PS Maybe if I'm really good, Santa will leave one of these under my
> Christmas tree??? :-)
>
> BEAUTIFUL LYCOMING IO-360-C1E6 200HP. ALL NEW LIMITS FROM THE
> CRANKSHAFT OUT TO THE CERMI-NIL CYLINDERS WITH BALANCED PISTONS. NEW
> MAGS/HARNESS/PLUGS. ALL NEW
> HARDWARE. O/H FUEL SYSTEM. TEST RUN WITH FAA 8130-3 YELLOW TAG ZERO
> SINCE MAJOR OVERHAUL. ALL NEW PARTS PER LYC S.B. 240R ALMOST CHROME
> POWDER COAT AND HIGH TEMP ENAMEL LYC GRAY PAINT. ONE YEAR/500 HOURS
> WARRANTY FIVE YEARS/TBO ON CERMI-NIL BARRELS OUTRIGHT 22,500.00.
> EXCHANGE 18,500.00
> mark(at)tropicairpower.com 561-964-8770
> www.tropicairpower.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NACA air vents |
12/14/2000 10:39:35
I agree the qualitity isn't there. However unless you have shop air at
your tiedown or hanger and duplicate air tools, the Dremmel is
ok(marginally) when your are working at the hanger. Another poster
mentioned a Dumore brand that sounds worth looking into.
Gary and Carolyn Zilik
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: Re: RV-List: NACA
air vents
ronics.com
12/13/2000 09:25 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
>
> Did I mention I LOVE MY Dremel?
>
I went through 3 Dremel in building my plane. My trusty 1970s vintage
Dremel
kicked the bucket somewhere during fuselage construction so I bought a new
one
(Dremel that is). The new one was a piece of junk and lasted only a few
times
before I tossed it in the garbage. The third one aint much better, not
compared to my '70s dremel. I'll stick with my die grinder.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel injection maintenace |
12/14/2000 10:48:01
I have used Hoopes Gun cleaner (Wal-mart...ect.). But I would get in touch
with Don at Performance Aero(Yeller pages) to get the real data on cleaning
and long term storage of your FI unit.
"Emrath"
To:
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel
injection
ronics.com maintenace
12/13/2000 09:10 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
I recently acquired a std. Bendix FI system and would like to know what you
used to soak the lines and nozzles in for cleaning and what is the
recommendation for preserving the injector body while I complete building
my
ship.
Marty in Brentwood TN.
----- Original Message -----
From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2000 9:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel injection maintenace
>
> There is the "coke bottle test" I've done on occasion where you test
the
> flow rate or metering of the nozzles. Simply put-- you testing for a
equal
> flow ammount of liquid gas exiting your nozzles. (By squirting the gas
> into four equal bottles for a given ammount of time to verify you have
> equal flow ammounts.) Hoopes gun cleaner/solvent disolves the lead
buildup
> if there is any......other then this all my FI systems have been
> bulletproof. I mention the coke bottle test as a maintenance test tool,
not
> so much a annual thing to do. If I suspected any problems I would start
> here. Soaking the injector lines & nozznes cleared up any problems & ever
> had....
>
>
> "Doug Weiler"
> <doug.weiler@pressenter. To: "RV List"
> com> cc:
> Sent by: Subject: RV-List:
Fuel injection maintenace
> owner-rv-list-server@mat
> ronics.com
>
>
> 12/12/2000 04:16 PM
> Please respond to
> rv-list
>
>
> Fellow Listers and fuel injection experts:
>
> My recently purchased RV-4 is equipped with a standard Bendix fuel
> injection
> system. This is the first aircraft I have owned with FI. Is there any
> special preventive maintenance procedures that are done at annual on such
a
> system?
>
> Many thanks
>
> Doug Weiler
> MN Wing
>
> ================
> Doug Weiler
> Hudson, WI
> 715-386-1239
> dougweil(at)pressenter.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NACA air vents |
there is another dremel like tool in the same dremel tool price range which
is supposedly better in many ways (ergonomically better, better motor,
better attachments, etc) used by hobbiest now.
The name (ryobi ?) escapes me at the moment but you are supposed to be able
to find it at a store such as lowe's or home depot.
lucky
>From: pcondon(at)csc.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: NACA air vents
>Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 10:45:25 -0500 12/14/2000 10:39:35
>
>
>I agree the qualitity isn't there. However unless you have shop air at
>your tiedown or hanger and duplicate air tools, the Dremmel is
>ok(marginally) when your are working at the hanger. Another poster
>mentioned a Dumore brand that sounds worth looking into.
>
>
> Gary and Carolyn Zilik
> To:
>rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent by: cc:
> owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: Re:
>RV-List: NACA air vents
> ronics.com
>
>
> 12/13/2000 09:25 PM
> Please respond to
> rv-list
>
>
> >
> > Did I mention I LOVE MY Dremel?
> >
>
>I went through 3 Dremel in building my plane. My trusty 1970s vintage
>Dremel
>kicked the bucket somewhere during fuselage construction so I bought a new
>one
>(Dremel that is). The new one was a piece of junk and lasted only a few
>times
>before I tossed it in the garbage. The third one aint much better, not
>compared to my '70s dremel. I'll stick with my die grinder.
>
>Gary Zilik
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming IO-360-C1E6 for sale |
12/14/2000 11:11:25
I have two I/O 360 AIA lower sumps I've collected but one has a forward
opening and the other has a rearward opening for the injector body......Can
any one shed any light on this ? There appears to be no "infield" mod to
either castings...they both look "factory"
Sent by: To:
owner-rv-list-server@mat cc:
ronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming
IO-360-C1E6 for
sale
12/12/2000 04:21 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
Be aware that a IO-360C1E6 will not fit in a RV8a. I learned this somewhat
the hard way.
First thing is this engine is a rear breather. On mine I had the front of
the sump opened up and covered the back side with a steel plate. Then I
go
to order the exhaust system. Well Larry Vetterman says he will gladly make
the exhaust system but my engine will not fit in a 8a . He was right,
Larry just saved me from another costly mistake. (thank you Larry). So now
I am on a hunt for IO360-A series sump and these are in short supply. I
did find a sump but no intake tubes. Three months later I found the tubes.
This engine might fit a RV-8, the problem is that the sump is set back on
this engine and it hits the nose gear.
(PS you need to change the starter)
Dane
RV-8A
IO-360 C/A series engine installed working on fuel lines
I guess I will get to fly off 40 hours instead of the 25hrs.
>
> Listers,
> A very honest and trustworthy local engine shop has a very nice angle
> valve (200 hp) Lycoming engine for sale. I am not connected with them in
> any way. I just thought someone out there (with more money than me)
> could find a home for it. Please contact Mark at Tropic Airpower
> directly.
>
> Charlie Kuss
> RV-8A finishing up wings and starting fuselage
> Boca Raton, Fl.
> PS Maybe if I'm really good, Santa will leave one of these under my
> Christmas tree??? :-)
>
> BEAUTIFUL LYCOMING IO-360-C1E6 200HP. ALL NEW LIMITS FROM THE
> CRANKSHAFT OUT TO THE CERMI-NIL CYLINDERS WITH BALANCED PISTONS. NEW
> MAGS/HARNESS/PLUGS. ALL NEW
> HARDWARE. O/H FUEL SYSTEM. TEST RUN WITH FAA 8130-3 YELLOW TAG ZERO
> SINCE MAJOR OVERHAUL. ALL NEW PARTS PER LYC S.B. 240R ALMOST CHROME
> POWDER COAT AND HIGH TEMP ENAMEL LYC GRAY PAINT. ONE YEAR/500 HOURS
> WARRANTY FIVE YEARS/TBO ON CERMI-NIL BARRELS OUTRIGHT 22,500.00.
> EXCHANGE 18,500.00
> mark(at)tropicairpower.com 561-964-8770
> www.tropicairpower.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming IO-360-XXX |
12/14/2000 11:13:11
__________________
I have two I/O 360 AIA lower sumps I've collected but one has a forward
opening and the other has a rearward opening for the injector body......Can
any one shed any light on this ? There appears to be no "infield" mod to
either castings...they both look "factory"
Sent by: To:
owner-rv-list-server@mat cc:
ronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming
IO-360-C1E6 for
sale
12/12/2000 04:21 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
Be aware that a IO-360C1E6 will not fit in a RV8a. I learned this somewhat
the hard way.
First thing is this engine is a rear breather. On mine I had the front of
the sump opened up and covered the back side with a steel plate. Then I
go
to order the exhaust system. Well Larry Vetterman says he will gladly make
the exhaust system but my engine will not fit in a 8a . He was right,
Larry just saved me from another costly mistake. (thank you Larry). So now
I am on a hunt for IO360-A series sump and these are in short supply. I
did find a sump but no intake tubes. Three months later I found the tubes.
This engine might fit a RV-8, the problem is that the sump is set back on
this engine and it hits the nose gear.
(PS you need to change the starter)
Dane
RV-8A
IO-360 C/A series engine installed working on fuel lines
I guess I will get to fly off 40 hours instead of the 25hrs.
>
> Listers,
> A very honest and trustworthy local engine shop has a very nice angle
> valve (200 hp) Lycoming engine for sale. I am not connected with them in
> any way. I just thought someone out there (with more money than me)
> could find a home for it. Please contact Mark at Tropic Airpower
> directly.
>
> Charlie Kuss
> RV-8A finishing up wings and starting fuselage
> Boca Raton, Fl.
> PS Maybe if I'm really good, Santa will leave one of these under my
> Christmas tree??? :-)
>
> BEAUTIFUL LYCOMING IO-360-C1E6 200HP. ALL NEW LIMITS FROM THE
> CRANKSHAFT OUT TO THE CERMI-NIL CYLINDERS WITH BALANCED PISTONS. NEW
> MAGS/HARNESS/PLUGS. ALL NEW
> HARDWARE. O/H FUEL SYSTEM. TEST RUN WITH FAA 8130-3 YELLOW TAG ZERO
> SINCE MAJOR OVERHAUL. ALL NEW PARTS PER LYC S.B. 240R ALMOST CHROME
> POWDER COAT AND HIGH TEMP ENAMEL LYC GRAY PAINT. ONE YEAR/500 HOURS
> WARRANTY FIVE YEARS/TBO ON CERMI-NIL BARRELS OUTRIGHT 22,500.00.
> EXCHANGE 18,500.00
> mark(at)tropicairpower.com 561-964-8770
> www.tropicairpower.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: parts for sale |
-----Original Message-----
From: EXT-Richard, Emmanuelle J <Emmanuelle.Richard(at)PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Wednesday, December 13, 2000 8:43 AM
Subject: RV-List: parts for sale
>
>All the items below are NEW, never been used, unless stated otherwise.
Selling them as I decided on different configurations for my RV4. As far as
price, make reasonnable offer.
>
>- Gascolator P/N 10544-1. New.
>- Com antenna, bent whip. New.
>- Dual CHT/EGT gauge + probes - Westach. New.
>- Dual Oil pressure/Oil temperature gauge - Westach. New.
>- Dual Volt/Amps gauge - Westach. New.
HOW MUCH $ FOR THESE iTEMS?
Tommy Walker
Ridgetop, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Sears Brand Moto Tool |
I bought a Sears version of the dremel. I have beat that thing to death on
the RV, model airplanes, houshold stuff and all kinds of things for the last
4 years. It still works perfectly. I have never owned a "dremel" brand
moto tool, but this one sure has worked well. It has even been dropped
several times with no damage or sign of wear (other than the outside case!).
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAB orientation |
> For those who have installed Van's filtered air box... the instructions
> note that the FAB is orientated 5 degrees to the right. Correct me if I
am
> wrong, but shouldn't this be orientated to the left to compensate for the
> fact that the engine is canted to the right, thus aligning the FAB
straight
> ahead?
What matters is that it lines up with the air scoop. How much leeway you
have here will depend on whether you have an O-320 or O-360, and whether or
not you have the new cowl with the scoop already on or not. Either way it's
best to wait until you install your cowl and orient the airbox after or in
conjunction with the cowl installation.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Christen seperator |
| From: | Scott.Fink(at)microchip.com |
12/14/2000 10:37:08 AM,
Serialize complete at 12/14/2000 10:37:08 AM
I have a chance to buy the air/oil seperator for a Christen inverted oil
system at a good price, but the ball for the check valve is badly corroded
and pitted. Does anyone know if it can be removed/repaired at a
reasonable cost, or is the seperator a disposable item (at $300)?
Scott Fink
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SSPRING83(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 11/26/00 |
Dear Doug
I,m in the market for an rv-4 or6. Serious buyer twell me more about it
and how long you,ve had it, etc etc etc. George Spring Chester Conn.,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
I currently own and fly a Cessna 172 and believe me, even with time in a
Super Musketeer, a Comanche and a Bonanza, the 9A is much more responsive.
Aerobatic capability may be something I would desire in the future but for
the kind of flying I do, the 9A is perfect. Now if I could just cram 4
people in it.
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randall
Henderson
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2000 11:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6A or 9A
> But don't get the wrong idea. The RV-9A is no ho hum airplane.
> Any pilot that has only flown production cessnapiperetc. will think
> it is very sporty and responsive, but anyone with prior experience
> in another model RV will notice that it is a little tamer.
This is a really good point. Some people have said it's more of a "trainer"
and "better for low-time pilots.". I think that really gives the wrong
impression about the plane. I have flown the -9A and compared to my -6 it is
more docile. But if I think back to my pre-RV days, and imagine what it
would have been like to get behind the stick of a -9A -- I have no doubt I
would have been just as blown away by that as I was by my first ride in
a -6. Yes you give up aerobatics, but you gain efficiency, slow speed
handling, and better short field performance. Not to mention the fact that
it's easier to build. For someone not interested in aerobatics or a
tailwheel, it's hard to find reasons NOT to choose the -9A.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NACA air vents |
Gary,
I had much the same thing happen to my series of Dremel tools. But for some
reason I didn't throw away my second Dremel. After my third one died I
contacted Dremel directly to tell them how disappointed I was with their
"new" line of tools. They tole me to ship both tools to them along with any
receipts I had. I no longer had the receipt to the second one (which is why
I bought the third one). After they received my two roto tolls they called
me, confirmed that there would be no charge for the one and only $16 to
completely overhaul the other one and shipping back to me would be at their
cost. This all happened within a week and a half. While I agree that their
new model roto tools isn't up to their earlier models, I have to say that
their customer service and turn-around time was excellent. Their customer
service phone number can be found on their web-site.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
11.3 hours
>From: Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: NACA air vents
>Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 19:25:39 -0700
>
>
> >
> > Did I mention I LOVE MY Dremel?
> >
>
>I went through 3 Dremel in building my plane. My trusty 1970s vintage
>Dremel
>kicked the bucket somewhere during fuselage construction so I bought a new
>one
>(Dremel that is). The new one was a piece of junk and lasted only a few
>times
>before I tossed it in the garbage. The third one aint much better, not
>compared to my '70s dremel. I'll stick with my die grinder.
>
>Gary Zilik
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming IO-360-XXX |
Sky Dynamics makes a Magnesium sump(with oil flop tube..you always have oil
pressure) with cold air induction that bolts right on a IO-360C1E6. The fuel
servo mounts on the front. I do not know if it would fit on a -8A. They also
make the best 4-1 exhaust (my opinion) on the market.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2000 8:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming IO-360-XXX
>
>
> __________________
>
> I have two I/O 360 AIA lower sumps I've collected but one has a forward
> opening and the other has a rearward opening for the injector
body......Can
> any one shed any light on this ? There appears to be no "infield" mod to
> either castings...they both look "factory"
>
>
>
> Sent by: To:
> owner-rv-list-server@mat cc:
> ronics.com Subject: Re:
RV-List: Lycoming IO-360-C1E6 for
> sale
>
> 12/12/2000 04:21 PM
> Please respond to
> rv-list
>
>
> Be aware that a IO-360C1E6 will not fit in a RV8a. I learned this somewhat
> the hard way.
>
> First thing is this engine is a rear breather. On mine I had the front of
> the sump opened up and covered the back side with a steel plate. Then I
> go
> to order the exhaust system. Well Larry Vetterman says he will gladly
make
> the exhaust system but my engine will not fit in a 8a . He was right,
> Larry just saved me from another costly mistake. (thank you Larry). So
now
> I am on a hunt for IO360-A series sump and these are in short supply. I
> did find a sump but no intake tubes. Three months later I found the
tubes.
> This engine might fit a RV-8, the problem is that the sump is set back on
> this engine and it hits the nose gear.
> (PS you need to change the starter)
>
> Dane
> RV-8A
> IO-360 C/A series engine installed working on fuel lines
> I guess I will get to fly off 40 hours instead of the 25hrs.
>
>
> >
> > Listers,
> > A very honest and trustworthy local engine shop has a very nice angle
> > valve (200 hp) Lycoming engine for sale. I am not connected with them in
> > any way. I just thought someone out there (with more money than me)
> > could find a home for it. Please contact Mark at Tropic Airpower
> > directly.
> >
> > Charlie Kuss
> > RV-8A finishing up wings and starting fuselage
> > Boca Raton, Fl.
> > PS Maybe if I'm really good, Santa will leave one of these under my
> > Christmas tree??? :-)
> >
> > BEAUTIFUL LYCOMING IO-360-C1E6 200HP. ALL NEW LIMITS FROM THE
> > CRANKSHAFT OUT TO THE CERMI-NIL CYLINDERS WITH BALANCED PISTONS. NEW
> > MAGS/HARNESS/PLUGS. ALL NEW
> > HARDWARE. O/H FUEL SYSTEM. TEST RUN WITH FAA 8130-3 YELLOW TAG ZERO
> > SINCE MAJOR OVERHAUL. ALL NEW PARTS PER LYC S.B. 240R ALMOST CHROME
> > POWDER COAT AND HIGH TEMP ENAMEL LYC GRAY PAINT. ONE YEAR/500 HOURS
> > WARRANTY FIVE YEARS/TBO ON CERMI-NIL BARRELS OUTRIGHT 22,500.00.
> > EXCHANGE 18,500.00
> > mark(at)tropicairpower.com 561-964-8770
> > www.tropicairpower.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel injection maintenace |
Doug,
For starters, clean the injectors. I do it by
soaking them in Hopes gun cleaner and then
blow them out with air.
Stewart, N273sb CO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming IO-360-XXX |
How is the best way to get in contact with Sky Dynmanics.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <skybolt(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming IO-360-XXX |
At the site listed below.
http://www.skydynamics.com/
----- Original Message -----
From: <TColeE(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2000 2:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming IO-360-XXX
>
> How is the best way to get in contact with Sky Dynmanics.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FAB orientation |
On my RV-6AQB with a O-320, the engine is canted to the right, the carb
opening on the sump was off center to the left. To make it work without
changing the center line of the cowl, you need to split the difference of
the air box and the scoop. One other consideration is the closeness of the
exhaust pipes to the sides of the lower cowl. You need a minimum of about
3/8", as per Larry Vetterman. On mine I had to re glass the sides to clear
the pipes. This was with an S cowl. Hope this helps.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB Sanding that *###*** Fiber glass cowl
> [Original Message]
> From: Randall Henderson <randallh(at)home.com>
> To:
> Date: 12/14/00 1:06:46 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: FAB orientation
>
>
> > For those who have installed Van's filtered air box... the instructions
> > note that the FAB is orientated 5 degrees to the right. Correct me if I
> am
> > wrong, but shouldn't this be orientated to the left to compensate for
the
> > fact that the engine is canted to the right, thus aligning the FAB
> straight
> > ahead?
>
> What matters is that it lines up with the air scoop. How much leeway you
> have here will depend on whether you have an O-320 or O-360, and whether
or
> not you have the new cowl with the scoop already on or not. Either way
it's
> best to wait until you install your cowl and orient the airbox after or in
> conjunction with the cowl installation.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
>
>
>
>
--- Harvey Sigmon
--- flyhars(at)earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Fitting Tank Skins |
How have others dealt with lining up the tank ribs with the pre punched
holes in the tank skin. Unlike the leading edge ribs there are no
lightening holes to allow for using my wooden pole to move the ribs
around.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
Building Tanks
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming IO-360-XXX |
www.skydynamics.com
or
540-297-6754
----- Original Message -----
From: <TColeE(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2000 11:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming IO-360-XXX
>
> How is the best way to get in contact with Sky Dynmanics.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Fitting Tank Skins |
In a message dated 12/14/00 3:41:19 PM Central Standard Time,
mnellis(at)emailusa.net writes:
<< How have others dealt with lining up the tank ribs with the pre punched
holes in the tank skin. Unlike the leading edge ribs there are no
lightening holes to allow for using my wooden pole to move the ribs
around. >>
On one end you can reach through the inspection cover holw. On the other end
I reached through the filler cap hole with a wire wrapped with duct tape and
hooked on the end to pull and a pole to push. You can also slide a thin
piece of metal (some scrap .030 aluminimum from the trim bundle) up between
the skin and spar flange and gentle nudge the ribs into position. That's
what I did and it worked well.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | For Sale: Orndoff RV-8 Videos |
I have the following for sale:
The RV6/8 pre-punched empennage tapes and the RV6/A Quickbuild tapes.
The tapes are $94.50 plus shipping from GBI. I'll sell for $75 and include
shipping.
lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RWINGSPAN(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Fitting Tank Skins |
<< How have others dealt with lining up the tank ribs with the pre punched
holes in the tank skin. >>
Mike,
Try slipping a yard stick under the bottom of the skin between the tiedowns.
Makes pushing the ribs easy. Two other things helped me: (1) putting some
masking tape over the rib tips will help keep the ribs from hanging up on the
skin (2) leave the plastic on the tank skin.
Rich Greener
RV-8 81056
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Fitting Tank Skins |
On my 8, I strapped the skins down fairly tight, but with enough slack to
let me to stick a broomstick into the back (bottom) side along the baffle
and "persuade" the ribs one way or the other. I clecoed every hole. Once I
had worked up about 2/3 of the way to the tip, I strapped them down tight
for the drilling, and I would leave it that way unless I started to get
misaligned... then I'd loosen a strap or two and broomstick the recalcitrant
rib back into place.
I was worried about the same thing but this worked fine.
I should hedge this by saying that for about 2 inches at the leading edge,
the tank skin sticks up about 1-2 mm higher than the leading edge skin-
which is I think very common, but maybe if I'd kept the straps supertight
the whole time it wouldn't have happened.
Matthew
8A fuse N48PP reserved
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mike Nellis
Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2000 12:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fitting Tank Skins
How have others dealt with lining up the tank ribs with the pre punched
holes in the tank skin. Unlike the leading edge ribs there are no
lightening holes to allow for using my wooden pole to move the ribs
around.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
Building Tanks
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming IO-360-XXX |
| From: | b green <rvinfo(at)juno.com> |
I believe there website is www.skydynamics.com. I would agree that the
sump and exhaust components from Sky Dynamics are top notch. Have had
them both on my Skybolt for the last 15 years.
>
> How is the best way to get in contact with Sky Dynmanics.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel injection maintenace |
| From: | b green <rvinfo(at)juno.com> |
put the injectors on a can with the solvent and tape or other wise secure
the can to you bench grinder. If your bench grinder is anything like
mine, it acts like an ultrasonic cleaner, 15 minutes and your injectors
are clean.
>
> Doug,
> For starters, clean the injectors. I do it by
> soaking them in Hopes gun cleaner and then
> blow them out with air.
> Stewart, N273sb CO.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Rocket-List: 3" Adel Clamps |
> Norman, I noticed you said "engine fire extinguisher".
> Under those conditions, the extinguisher is mounted out of reach,
> and is remotely triggered.
I'm going to mount this extiguisher on the floor between the two occupants
legs. The head is near the main wing spar (RV6A) so that the remote cable
can be eliminated. I just reach down, pull the pin, and squeeze. It will be
plumbed into a few nozzles under the cowl. The racing guys say the cables
are the first failure point in the system.
The bottle has been modified to have it's pick up in the middle at the
lowest point when lying on it's side. Caution to others with an idea like
this; you must make sure that the bottle is approved to fire in the
orientation you are planning to mount it or you won't get much output.
I have another bottle that is designed for hand held use that will be
mounted on top of the engine extinguisher. Both are Halon 1211 which is the
only type legal in Canada. I have built a solid structure in the center
channel of the floorboards that ties into the firewall and the seat pans to
mount both 5 lb extinguishers (3 lbs of Halon) and my 13 lb battery.
> Based on that, most racing shops have anodized aluminum
> mounting brackets in various diameters depending on bottle size.
> If it is to be mounted for ready access, the same places will have
> stainless quick-disconnect clamp mounts.
> Archie
I will now persue this avenue. Thanks Archie............Norman...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fitting Tank Skins |
Hello Mike,
The small tooling holes up in the tip area of the tank baffles are used for
aligning them. There are a few ways to do this, one of them uses threaded
rod and nuts and washers.
What I did was use white PVC. tubing (10 cents a foot locally). I first
measured the spaces between the tank ribs at the lower ends next to the rear
tank back baffle. I checked this against the pre-punched hole spacing on the
skins,Then using a cutter that assured a square cut I cut and marked a
section of tubing for each space between the tank ribs.
next I took some .032 SS. tie wire twice and a bit longer than the tank
length (about 10 inches) and doubled it in the middle. starting at one end
of the tank I pushed the folded end of the wire through the tooling hole
into the tank area. Then I threaded the wire through the "marked" tube that
fit that tank space, then through the next tank rib and so on when the bent
end of the wire exited the last rib I put a piece of doweling through the
loop that it formed and taped that in place.
Then at the other end of the tank where the wire now stuck out as two
strands, I put another small piece of dowel and wound the wire so as to hold
the dowels and the tank parts together. By tightening the wire I brought all
of the slack out of the wire and this brought all of the tank ribs together
and square with the square cut tubing pieces.
Another thing I did was put masking tape on the faces of the tank rib
flanges draw the rivet center lines on the tape then I used a bar of soap to
coat all of the tape to provide a slippery surface for the skin to pull down
on. Then with partial tension on the straps I then used a sharp ice pick to
maneuver the ribs so that the lines on the tape showed in the pre punched
holes.
The tape made no difference to the fit of the pieces and I left the plastic
on the second skin when I fit it, still no difference.
I can provide a picture or two that might help you visualize the above if
you find the need.
Jim in Kelowna, - Fitting aileron tube seals. Fifth point mounting point
next.
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Nellis <mnellis(at)emailusa.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2000 12:30 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fitting Tank Skins
>
> How have others dealt with lining up the tank ribs with the pre punched
> holes in the tank skin. Unlike the leading edge ribs there are no
> lightening holes to allow for using my wooden pole to move the ribs
> around.
>
> Thanks in advance for the help.
>
> Mike Nellis - RV-6 N699BM (res)
> Plainfield, IL
> Building Tanks
> http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
I have a Musketeer and there may be some similarities, but a castering
nosewheel is not one of them. The Musketeer has a steerable nosewheel.
--
Shelby Smith
68 B-23 N4004T serial #1110
See Beech Party 2000 Pictures at
http://www.zing.com/album/?id=4293462197
----------
>From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6A or 9A
>Date: Wed, Dec 13, 2000, 11:19 PM
>
> Ground handling resembles the Beech Musketeer in that it has
> a
> castering nosewheel, but rudder authority at low speeds is good (better
> than
> the Beech) and little braking is needed to taxi normally.
>
> Gordon Comfort
> N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
Hello gents,
It's time for me to put the wiring in the wings. I'm also putting an AOA
in. What size pvc (I assume that's the right stuff to use?) do I need to
put in there for a wing light, and strobe flashers along with the aoa
tubing? Do I put this pvc in front of or behind the spar?
Thanks
Bill
-4 wings....getting ready to rivet skins.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | GTX327 Transponder Question |
Hi,
I have a Garmin GTX 327 Transponder wired into my panel on my RV-6
project. Everything has worked fine up to this point. Last week I
powered up the panel and after hitting the button to turn the
Transponder on, the face lit up, but without the LCD text. The only
variable that I can seem to find is the COLD weather. I know the heater
element in the Mode C unit usually takes a few minutes to warm up, is
there something similar with the Transponder?
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | meketa <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NACA air vents |
Hello yall
I wanted to put in my two cents on the Ryobi but waited. I have had
Dremil and Craftsman brand roto tools and neither held up well to
moderately hard use. I then bought a Ryobi about 5 years ago and really
like it. It is very ergonomic, has a nice long cord and has held up
well. It is far superior to others in the same price range. I purchased
it at Home Depot, but have not seen them there in quite some time. I am
sure with a little searching one can be found.
George Meketa
RV-8 IO-360\CS finishing
lucky macy wrote:
>
>
> there is another dremel like tool in the same dremel tool price range which
> is supposedly better in many ways (ergonomically better, better motor,
> better attachments, etc) used by hobbiest now.
>
> The name (ryobi ?) escapes me at the moment but you are supposed to be able
> to find it at a store such as lowe's or home depot.
>
> lucky
>
> >From: pcondon(at)csc.com
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: NACA air vents
> >Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 10:45:25 -0500 12/14/2000 10:39:35
> >
> >
> >I agree the qualitity isn't there. However unless you have shop air at
> >your tiedown or hanger and duplicate air tools, the Dremmel is
> >ok(marginally) when your are working at the hanger. Another poster
> >mentioned a Dumore brand that sounds worth looking into.
> >
> >
> > Gary and Carolyn Zilik
> > To:
> >rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Sent by: cc:
> > owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: Re:
> >RV-List: NACA air vents
> > ronics.com
> >
> >
> > 12/13/2000 09:25 PM
> > Please respond to
> > rv-list
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Did I mention I LOVE MY Dremel?
> > >
> >
> >I went through 3 Dremel in building my plane. My trusty 1970s vintage
> >Dremel
> >kicked the bucket somewhere during fuselage construction so I bought a new
> >one
> >(Dremel that is). The new one was a piece of junk and lasted only a few
> >times
> >before I tossed it in the garbage. The third one aint much better, not
> >compared to my '70s dremel. I'll stick with my die grinder.
> >
> >Gary Zilik
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Phillips" <mphill(at)fgi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fitting Tank Skins |
I used wax paper on the ribs for the wing tank,
----- Original Message -----
From: <RWINGSPAN(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2000 4:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fitting Tank Skins
>
>
> << How have others dealt with lining up the tank ribs with the pre punched
> holes in the tank skin. >>
> Mike,
>
> Try slipping a yard stick under the bottom of the skin between the
tiedowns.
> Makes pushing the ribs easy. Two other things helped me: (1) putting some
> masking tape over the rib tips will help keep the ribs from hanging up on
the
> skin (2) leave the plastic on the tank skin.
>
> Rich Greener
> RV-8 81056
> Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Phillips" <mphill(at)fgi.net> |
Bill, I used 1/2 hot/cold water pipe,behind the main spar,made a hardboard
templet that just fit inside the rib,and then drilled all the holes on the
drill press including the drainback holes
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2000 7:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wing wiring
>
> Hello gents,
>
> It's time for me to put the wiring in the wings. I'm also putting an AOA
> in. What size pvc (I assume that's the right stuff to use?) do I need to
> put in there for a wing light, and strobe flashers along with the aoa
> tubing? Do I put this pvc in front of or behind the spar?
>
> Thanks
> Bill
> -4 wings....getting ready to rivet skins.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID R COOK SR" <DAVERCOOK(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Support Brace Outboard Side |
Hi Ralph
I did just as you indicated and cut the flap brace. I liked the way it came
out and I don't think it compromises the strength at all.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2000 1:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: Flap Support Brace Outboard Side
>
> Folks,
>
> While working on the left wing, I noticed that the outboard end of the
flap
> support brace runs over the splice plate where the aileron pushrod hole is
> drilled thru. It looks like I should notch this and/or bend to fit like
the
> inboard end is done. Anyone else seen this - and how did you resolve it?
> Nothing in the archives or the instructions about the outer end
>
> I can't be the first to run into this one...
>
> Ralph Capen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
Bill,
I just got finished putting in the "A" kit for my AOA. I don't know if
you're going with the PSS product but have a look at this page.
http://www.mnellis.jnet.net/RV-6_Page/WingSkinning3.htm#AOA
I've got some pictures and information on how I installed my wing conduit at
this link. It's got some pretty clear pictures and text on how I installed
mine.
http://www.mnellis.jnet.net/RV-6_Page/wings_assembly_skeleton_2.htm
Hope this helps
Mike Nellis - RV-6 N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
Building Tanks
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2000 8:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wing wiring
>
> Hello gents,
>
> It's time for me to put the wiring in the wings. I'm also putting an AOA
> in. What size pvc (I assume that's the right stuff to use?) do I need to
> put in there for a wing light, and strobe flashers along with the aoa
> tubing? Do I put this pvc in front of or behind the spar?
>
> Thanks
> Bill
> -4 wings....getting ready to rivet skins.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GTX327 Transponder Question |
Glenn wrote:
> I have a Garmin GTX 327 Transponder wired into my panel on my RV-6
> project. Everything has worked fine up to this point.
I got one of these from Stark Avionics. Great price and worked fine untill
powered up by certified avionics guy (Jeff Chandler at LVK) . Cable from
TXP to ACK was wrongly wired and had to be redone. I didn't get any docs
with my GTX327 purchase so I know no more than that.
Was neat with altitude simulator connected. Panel indicated 16,000 feet,
climbing 3000 fpm and going 200 kts!
Avionics guy assures me this unit is good!
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon Robertson <gordon(at)safemail.com> |
| Subject: | Wing skin not fitting |
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tank Fit(s!)
Mark, I'm certainly interested in your tank issue! I just got up from
the
dungeon where I was doing some trial fitting of the tank skins before I
start drilling the tank ribs to the bulkhead. I noticed that the skins
are
not quite square with the leading edge and main skins. I haven't
riveted
the Leading Edge or main skins yet but I think the answer is going to be
to
use a file and trim the tank skins until everything butts up against
each
other. I had to do this on the bottom main skin to get a perfect butt
joint
with the bottom of the LE skin.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
Skinning the Wings
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel(at)edge.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 3:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: Tank Fit(s!)
>
> Here we go...
>
> I am attempting to fit my tank and cannot get the skin to match well
at
> the LE. The fit is almost perfect on the entire bottom and around the
> front of the joint, but about one inch above the front (about where
the
> front top rivet for the splice plate is) rearward for about 3", the LE
> skin becomes lower than the tank skin, about 1.5mm at the worst point,
> then becomes flush again at about the fourth splice rivet. All ribs
are
> flush to the spar (LE) and baffle (tank) and the skins are nicely
mated
> to the ribs. The LE is already rivetted together and to the spar, so
I
> can't shim the skin/splice out away from the inboard LE rib without
> removing these 3 or 4 rivets and somehow bucking the rivets through
the
> rib lightening hole, (what kind of bar would I have to conjure up for
> THAT!) or by using (GASP!) pop rivets. It does appear the LE skin is
> lower here than it should be as indicated by a straightedge placed
along
> the skin parallel to the spar. It appears I bent this area of the LE
> downward slightly as I set the rivets in the rib/splice plate.
>
> Anybody had this problem, what magical solution(s) could you offer?
> If the problem is unclear (and you're still interested!) please let me
> know.
>
> Thanks-
> From the PossumWorks in TN
> Mark - (badly) massaging the metal on my -6A's right wing...
>
>
Fellows,
The descripton of the problem is a bit hard to follow, but I think I
have it.
I got the same issue on my left tank, and now again on the right. I
finally figured out my problem. It is that the main spar was not quite
straight in the initial setup. One mm off straight in the 10 foot
lenght means 1mm of non-fitting of the skin. But not to worry, just
file it off.
Gordon Robertson
-8 sb wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Simpson <airtime(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Tonite's Home Wing Meeting report |
WOW!
I attended the RV Home Wing Meeting tonite, held at Vans in Aurora, OR, and
totally enjoyed every minute of it.
I'm sure I had that "Bambi in headlights" look, while walking thru the
isles and isles of bare RV parts. You coulda knocked me over with a
feather, probably.
An unexpected treat was listening to Van himself talk to the group, up
close and personal (right after I was allowed to give my little sales talk
re my Titanium Ti-downs *smile*)(heh heh, sold all I brought with me, after
the meeting. My relatively new wife was THRILLED to hear that, when I got
home from the "flying meeting")
Now I'm motivated more than ever to someday build an RV. Good grief, it's
gonna be hard to decide which model to build. Gonna have to bum a ride in
one of each, I guess *grin*
I may have created a self-sabotaging snafu statement when asked if I've
gotten a ride in an RV yet, when I answered off the top of my head, "no,
but I'm promised a ride in Tracy Saylors Harmon Rocket soon", in front of
Van and all the RV builders and flyers. Sheesh, what was I thinking?? DOH!
I can tell my first ride in an RV is getting close now *smile*
Walking thru the factory hangar with all the factory demo planes was sheer
bliss...
The factory reps that gave us the tours after the meeting verbage were all
so nice and friendly.
I talked informally with a tech support guy about making a certain RV part
out of Titanium. Will be in close contact with him regarding that.
I thank RV-Lister Randy Lervold for the invite to the meeting (and for his
purchase of a Ti-down kit).
While there, for continuing motivation, I bought the new 2001 RV calendar.
Such nice RV pics in it...
I just had to share this info, after basking in RV heaven tonite...
Randy Simpson
Albany, Oregon
future RV builder/flyer
p.s. Did everyone who ordered a Ti-down "set" or "kit" recieve theirs by now?
(Joe H, I know you don't have yours yet, as the shipping time to Canada
takes a little longer than here in the US). I hope I didn't leave anyone
out...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Collins <collins(at)pali.com> |
Hi All,
Does anyone know how the wings are attached on the -9A?
I am interested in knowing if they are removable for,
say, taking the plane home for annual maintenance.
Bob Collins
Sunnyvale CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: For Sale: Orndoff RV-6 Videos |
oops, the subject line had a type. They are RV6 QB tapes, not RV8 QB tapes.
lucky
>From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: For Sale: Orndoff RV-8 Videos
>Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 22:15:09
>
>
>I have the following for sale:
>
>The RV6/8 pre-punched empennage tapes and the RV6/A Quickbuild tapes.
>
>The tapes are $94.50 plus shipping from GBI. I'll sell for $75 and include
>shipping.
>
>lucky
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: For Sale: Orndoff RV-6 Videos |
oops, the subject line had a typo. They are RV6 QB tapes, not RV8 QB tapes.
lucky
>From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: For Sale: Orndoff RV-8 Videos
>Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 22:15:09
>
>
>I have the following for sale:
>
>The RV6/8 pre-punched empennage tapes and the RV6/A Quickbuild tapes.
>
>The tapes are $94.50 plus shipping from GBI. I'll sell for $75 and include
>shipping.
>
>lucky
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming IO-360-C1E6 for sale |
The IO-360-C1E6 does indeed work for an RV-8A - We have ours installed with
Vetterman exhaust. However, You must replace the SUMP with an A1 forward
facing injector sump. Dick Waters (AirTec) made the swap and we had no
problem with the installation.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (getting erady to paint)
Niantic, CT (Hanger -Westerly, RI)
********************
>From: <dane3(at)ATTGLOBAL.NET>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming IO-360-C1E6 for sale
>Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 15:21:07 -0600
>
>
>Be aware that a IO-360C1E6 will not fit in a RV8a. I learned this somewhat
>the hard way.
>
>First thing is this engine is a rear breather. On mine I had the front of
>the sump opened up and covered the back side with a steel plate. Then I
>go
>to order the exhaust system. Well Larry Vetterman says he will gladly make
>the exhaust system but my engine will not fit in a 8a . He was right,
>Larry just saved me from another costly mistake. (thank you Larry). So now
>I am on a hunt for IO360-A series sump and these are in short supply. I
>did find a sump but no intake tubes. Three months later I found the tubes.
>This engine might fit a RV-8, the problem is that the sump is set back on
>this engine and it hits the nose gear.
>(PS you need to change the starter)
>
>Dane
>RV-8A
>IO-360 C/A series engine installed working on fuel lines
>I guess I will get to fly off 40 hours instead of the 25hrs.
>
>
> >
> > Listers,
> > A very honest and trustworthy local engine shop has a very nice angle
> > valve (200 hp) Lycoming engine for sale. I am not connected with them in
> > any way. I just thought someone out there (with more money than me)
> > could find a home for it. Please contact Mark at Tropic Airpower
> > directly.
> >
> > Charlie Kuss
> > RV-8A finishing up wings and starting fuselage
> > Boca Raton, Fl.
> > PS Maybe if I'm really good, Santa will leave one of these under my
> > Christmas tree??? :-)
> >
> > BEAUTIFUL LYCOMING IO-360-C1E6 200HP. ALL NEW LIMITS FROM THE
> > CRANKSHAFT OUT TO THE CERMI-NIL CYLINDERS WITH BALANCED PISTONS. NEW
> > MAGS/HARNESS/PLUGS. ALL NEW
> > HARDWARE. O/H FUEL SYSTEM. TEST RUN WITH FAA 8130-3 YELLOW TAG ZERO
> > SINCE MAJOR OVERHAUL. ALL NEW PARTS PER LYC S.B. 240R ALMOST CHROME
> > POWDER COAT AND HIGH TEMP ENAMEL LYC GRAY PAINT. ONE YEAR/500 HOURS
> > WARRANTY FIVE YEARS/TBO ON CERMI-NIL BARRELS OUTRIGHT 22,500.00.
> > EXCHANGE 18,500.00
> > mark(at)tropicairpower.com 561-964-8770
> > www.tropicairpower.com
> >
> >
>
>
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Hicks <EdHicks(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAB orientation |
Listers,
Harvey Sigmon wrote:
>>On my RV-6AQB with a O-320, the engine is canted to the right, the carb
opening on the sump was off center to the left. To make it work without
changing the center line of the cowl, you need to split the difference of
the air box and the scoop.<<
With the new bottom cowlings arriving with the airscoop already moulded in
place, I would think that splitting the difference between the airbox and
the scoop won't be possible.
Unless the new cowls compensate a little for the offset, I guess all the
alignment will need to be through the airbox.
Has anyone fitted one of the new cowlings yet?
Best wishes,
Ed Hicks.
RV-6 QB G-BZRV
Bristol, UK.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
Bob: Speaking from experience with two RV-6's if the -9 is like the -6,
you sure don't want to take the wings off after you install them. There are
approximately 100 bolts and they are tight. The danger of scraping the
spare while sliding on and off into the fuselage. My feelings, and I am
sure you will feel the same way after you install them the first time.
Regards: Harvey Sigmon - RV-6AQB - Finishing stuff
> [Original Message]
> From: Collins <collins(at)pali.com>
> To:
> Date: 12/15/00 3:44:09 AM
> Subject: RV-List: RV-9A Question
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> Does anyone know how the wings are attached on the -9A?
> I am interested in knowing if they are removable for,
> say, taking the plane home for annual maintenance.
>
> Bob Collins
> Sunnyvale CA
>
>
>
>
>
>
--- Harvey Sigmon
--- flyhars(at)earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
________________________________________________________________________________
12/15/2000 09:54:35
I have owned a Mouscateer(A-23) and a Sundowner (B-23). The RV flys &
handles N O T H I N G like the Beech products. Control harmony, speed,
control input, performance..........this is like compairing a old farm
pickup with loose stearing and bad brakes with a new 2001 sports
car....there both motor vehicles but thats as far I would make the
comparison. Keep beating the rivets..... the RV is a real joy to fly.
"Shelby Smith"
cc:
Sent by: Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6A
or 9A
owner-rv-list-server@mat
ronics.com
12/14/2000 07:24 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
I have a Musketeer and there may be some similarities, but a castering
nosewheel is not one of them. The Musketeer has a steerable nosewheel.
--
Shelby Smith
68 B-23 N4004T serial #1110
See Beech Party 2000 Pictures at
http://www.zing.com/album/?id=4293462197
----------
>From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6A or 9A
>Date: Wed, Dec 13, 2000, 11:19 PM
>
> Ground handling resembles the Beech Musketeer in that it has
> a
> castering nosewheel, but rudder authority at low speeds is good (better
> than
> the Beech) and little braking is needed to taxi normally.
>
> Gordon Comfort
> N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
> Does anyone know how the wings are attached on the -9A?
> I am interested in knowing if they are removable for,
> say, taking the plane home for annual maintenance.
>
Bob: I am building the RV-9A wings now. No fuselage ordering for awhile,
but I do have the crossthrough spar and the associated hardware. Seriously,
I would consider the wings as permanent. These are big things that are easy
to damage. You will scrape the anodizing off the spars. You will have to
replace loctite nuts. You will have to disconnect your aileron and flap
controls, as well as your electrical and antenna wiring, pitot tube hose and
heater, landing light wires. you will have to disconnect your fuel system
and flush it out, etc., etc. It seems to me that you will have to rerig
this stuff and re-test fly. Look at wing removal as major maintenance - or
an unwanted flying event concerning trees.
Happy building. It's a great project.
Ernest Kells
RV-9A - Building Wings, Planning: O-235 Wood Prop
Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | For Sale: Orndoff RV Videos |
oops, the subject line had a typo. They are RV6 QB tapes, not RV8 QB tapes.
lucky
>From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: For Sale: Orndoff RV-8 Videos
>Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 22:15:09
>
>
>I have the following for sale:
>
>The RV6/8 pre-punched empennage tapes and the RV6/A Quickbuild tapes.
>
>The tapes are $94.50 plus shipping from GBI. I'll sell for $75 and include
>shipping.
>
>lucky
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Its has been 3 years, but after looking at Geogre's Vedio, I had a better
idea.
I installed an Al tube 1.5 aft & 1 inch below the top skin. Well that
wasnn't a good idea.
You have fun bucking the rivets in the skin.
I just drilled the holes in the floor ribs & I will have to bat turn up
to the top to get to my tunnel.
I think George is about right, My guess is low & back from the spar but
watch the aeliron bellcrack area.
I did drill all my holes before I installed the ribs. I bought & never
used the black tubing that VAn's sells. I think it would be good, because
if you have to exit mid way you could cut a hole in the side & you don't
need the grommets that I used. I would get it in now. A GlassAir type
loaned me his 90 degree drill (with a chuck). You can use that to do the
holes after the ribs are in & no skin.
Don Jordan RV6A Arlington, Tx
*****************************************
writes:
>
>
> Hello gents,
>
> It's time for me to put the wiring in the wings. I'm also putting
> an AOA
> in. What size pvc (I assume that's the right stuff to use?) do I
> need to
> put in there for a wing light, and strobe flashers along with the
> aoa
> tubing? Do I put this pvc in front of or behind the spar?
>
> Thanks
> Bill
> -4 wings....getting ready to rivet skins.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Bill,
May I suggest that I think that the plastic wire loom tubing like van's
sells, or any auto parts store, would be easier and much lighter. I placed
mine in the same lightning hole as the aileron control tube goes. It pretty
much just lays down on the lowest part of the hole so as not to interfere
with the controls. After cutting them to length just before installing them
with wire ties I ran a string(s) through them using a small nut tied to one
end. After running it through the wing I cut a small hole above the pitot
tube on the left wing side and snaked one of the strings on that side
through the hole. Then it was just a matter of tying the string(s) to their
respective wires and pulling them through. It worked great and weighed a
couple of pounds less. The tubing is so flexible that it was also much
easier to fish the wires out.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
12.9 hours
>From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Wing wiring
>Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 20:18:53 -0500
>
>
>Hello gents,
>
>It's time for me to put the wiring in the wings. I'm also putting an AOA
>in. What size pvc (I assume that's the right stuff to use?) do I need to
>put in there for a wing light, and strobe flashers along with the aoa
>tubing? Do I put this pvc in front of or behind the spar?
>
>Thanks
>Bill
>-4 wings....getting ready to rivet skins.
>
>
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Friday, December 15, 2000 12:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing wiring
>
>Bill,
>
>May I suggest that I think that the plastic wire loom tubing like van's
>sells, or any auto parts store, would be easier and much lighter
>
>Mike Robertson
>RV-8A N809RS
>12.9 hours
Please do a flame test on Van's tubing before using it. Apply a propane
torch flame to it and decide if you want this material in the cabin of your
plane where it could possibly ignite from an electrical fire.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 25 hours
Hampshire, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Sheppard" <jtshepp(at)lvnworth.com> |
| Subject: | Wing skin not fitting |
Mike,
I too had a slight "squaring" problem with my tanks. I suspect if the wing
skeleton is not perfectly level, i.e. bows low in the middle, or straight,
i.e. absent any twist, the tank skins will not fit perfectly. My solution
was filing the tank skins to fit the LE butt joint. 1 mm taper from the
tank skin LE to the spar on each wing worked for me. Good luck.
John Sheppard
RV8 fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gordon Robertson
Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2000 11:22 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wing skin not fitting
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV6A tail kit for sale. |
RV6A tailkit for sale. Except for unpacking, it hasn't been touched
and is in perfect condition.
The kit includes the thicker skins and electric trim.
This kit is not prepunched; I bought it just before prepunching started.
Will sell for best offer. Raleigh, NC. Shipping isn't out of the
question.
Respond via email or phone, not list; I no longer follow the list.
Don Karl karl_donald(at)emc.com (919)248-5915
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
Bill and Listers:
> May I suggest that I think that the plastic wire loom tubing like van's
> sells, or any auto parts store, would be easier and much lighter.
I would like to pass a suggestion to the list for feedback. I am building a
basic VFR RV-9A. currently into wings. I was thinking of using the Van's
tubing in both wings (or perhaps the thin wall CPVC). I think that I could
drill out the rear tooling holes to size. They already line up - for the
most part. I am considering running the tubes straight out through the
outside rib. All wires included. Then I would run an additional tube back
in a couple of rib bays for the AOA hole and landing lights.
Pitot tube holes are separate and there's no electric aileron. This would
seem to make everything accessible under the wing tip. Since I plan to use
a tail strobe I shouldn't have electrical problems. I would like to conceal
basic antenna in the two wing tips as much as possible.
Does this seem doable (it seems simple) or what are the problems? Thanks
for your help.
Ernest Kells
RV-9A - Building Wings, Planning: O-235 Wood Prop
Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
Hi Mike,
Maybe it's just the way I read your post. I was left with the impression
that you did not use some means to fasten the Van's supplied wire conduit to
the edges of the ribs that you passed it thru.
" I placed mine in the same lightning hole as the aileron control tube goes.
It pretty much just lays down on the lowest part of the hole so as not to
interfere "
If I am reading this line correctly, you should give some thought to some
form of attachment being applied.
In harsh flying conditions or aerobatics the likelihood of abrasion of the
conduit and subsequently the wires could be dangerous.Further, the
possibility of an unattached conduit in the same lightening holes as the
control tube and it getting into conflict with the control system could be
disastrous.
If indeed I have read your post incorrectly pay no heed to what I've said
here and keep on building.
The best of the season to you and yours,
Jim in Kelowna - fifth point harness mounts
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 9:50 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing wiring
>
> Bill,
>
> May I suggest that I think that the plastic wire loom tubing like van's
> sells, or any auto parts store, would be easier and much lighter. I
placed
> mine in the same lightning hole as the aileron control tube goes. It
pretty
> much just lays down on the lowest part of the hole so as not to interfere
> with the controls. After cutting them to length just before installing
them
> with wire ties I ran a string(s) through them using a small nut tied to
one
> end. After running it through the wing I cut a small hole above the pitot
> tube on the left wing side and snaked one of the strings on that side
> through the hole. Then it was just a matter of tying the string(s) to
their
> respective wires and pulling them through. It worked great and weighed a
> couple of pounds less. The tubing is so flexible that it was also much
> easier to fish the wires out.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A N809RS
> 12.9 hours
>
>
> >From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: RV-List: Wing wiring
> >Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 20:18:53 -0500
> >
> >
> >Hello gents,
> >
> >It's time for me to put the wiring in the wings. I'm also putting an AOA
> >in. What size pvc (I assume that's the right stuff to use?) do I need to
> >put in there for a wing light, and strobe flashers along with the aoa
> >tubing? Do I put this pvc in front of or behind the spar?
> >
> >Thanks
> >Bill
> >-4 wings....getting ready to rivet skins.
> >
> >
>
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
> >May I suggest that I think that the plastic wire loom tubing like van's
> >sells, or any auto parts store, would be easier and much lighter
>
> Please do a flame test on Van's tubing before using it. Apply a propane
> torch flame to it and decide if you want this material in the cabin of
your
> plane where it could possibly ignite from an electrical fire.
I'm not sure why everyone seems compelled to use conduit for wing wiring. I
have 9 wires in my left wing, 7 in my right, and simply routed them through
snap bushings put in holes in the fwd corner of the ribs. I then took a 2"
piece of spiral wrap and wrapped the wires in the middle of each span
between ribs. There is no extra weight, nothing to burn, and you can
visually inspect the entire length through the inspection holes or the
wingtip. If I ever need to change a wire I will reach up through the
inspection covers and the rib lightening holes, remove the short sections of
spiral wrap, then pull the old wire out or slide the new wire through with a
fish tape. I made sure my snap bushings were sized such that there was a bit
of extra room for an additional wire or two, but not so large the the bundle
would have too much extra motion within the snap bushing so as to wear.
Food for thought,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, N558RL, painting, then final wiring, then maybe someday
hopefully flying
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Jim,
Obviously I didn't make that clear. I did indeed tie the tubing to the ribs
with tie wraps on every other rib, then checked the sag with the wing turned
upside down to see if there was any sag, and if there was did it even come
close to the control tubes. Fortunately I had pulled the tube just tight
enough before tie-wrapping it that there was no apparant sag.
And with 12.9 hours now I haven't had any problems come up yet. That isn't
very many hours but it is surprising how many little "screw-ups" pop up
during the test flight period.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
12.9 hours
>From: "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing wiring
>Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 12:11:32 -0800
>
>
>Hi Mike,
>
>Maybe it's just the way I read your post. I was left with the impression
>that you did not use some means to fasten the Van's supplied wire conduit
>to
>the edges of the ribs that you passed it thru.
>
>" I placed mine in the same lightning hole as the aileron control tube
>goes.
>It pretty much just lays down on the lowest part of the hole so as not to
>interfere "
>
>If I am reading this line correctly, you should give some thought to some
>form of attachment being applied.
>In harsh flying conditions or aerobatics the likelihood of abrasion of the
>conduit and subsequently the wires could be dangerous.Further, the
>possibility of an unattached conduit in the same lightening holes as the
>control tube and it getting into conflict with the control system could be
>disastrous.
>If indeed I have read your post incorrectly pay no heed to what I've said
>here and keep on building.
>
>The best of the season to you and yours,
>Jim in Kelowna - fifth point harness mounts
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
>To:
>Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 9:50 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing wiring
>
>
> >
> > Bill,
> >
> > May I suggest that I think that the plastic wire loom tubing like van's
> > sells, or any auto parts store, would be easier and much lighter. I
>placed
> > mine in the same lightning hole as the aileron control tube goes. It
>pretty
> > much just lays down on the lowest part of the hole so as not to
>interfere
> > with the controls. After cutting them to length just before installing
>them
> > with wire ties I ran a string(s) through them using a small nut tied to
>one
> > end. After running it through the wing I cut a small hole above the
>pitot
> > tube on the left wing side and snaked one of the strings on that side
> > through the hole. Then it was just a matter of tying the string(s) to
>their
> > respective wires and pulling them through. It worked great and weighed
>a
> > couple of pounds less. The tubing is so flexible that it was also much
> > easier to fish the wires out.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> > RV-8A N809RS
> > 12.9 hours
> >
> >
> > >From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To:
> > >Subject: RV-List: Wing wiring
> > >Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 20:18:53 -0500
> > >
> > >
> > >Hello gents,
> > >
> > >It's time for me to put the wiring in the wings. I'm also putting an
>AOA
> > >in. What size pvc (I assume that's the right stuff to use?) do I need
>to
> > >put in there for a wing light, and strobe flashers along with the aoa
> > >tubing? Do I put this pvc in front of or behind the spar?
> > >
> > >Thanks
> > >Bill
> > >-4 wings....getting ready to rivet skins.
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
> >
> >
>
>
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Gunn" <ggunn(at)uswest.net> |
What is the advantage of installing conduit? I had planned on using the
plastic bushings only and tie wrapping the wires.
Gary Gunn
Ernest Kells wrote:
>
> Bill and Listers:
> > May I suggest that I think that the plastic wire loom tubing like van's
> > sells, or any auto parts store, would be easier and much lighter.
>
> I would like to pass a suggestion to the list for feedback. I am building a
> basic VFR RV-9A. currently into wings. I was thinking of using the Van's
> tubing in both wings (or perhaps the thin wall CPVC). I think that I could
> drill out the rear tooling holes to size. They already line up - for the
> most part. I am considering running the tubes straight out through the
> outside rib. All wires included. Then I would run an additional tube back
> in a couple of rib bays for the AOA hole and landing lights.
>
> Pitot tube holes are separate and there's no electric aileron. This would
> seem to make everything accessible under the wing tip. Since I plan to use
> a tail strobe I shouldn't have electrical problems. I would like to conceal
> basic antenna in the two wing tips as much as possible.
>
> Does this seem doable (it seems simple) or what are the problems? Thanks
> for your help.
> Ernest Kells
> RV-9A - Building Wings, Planning: O-235 Wood Prop
> Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
-----Original Message-----
>have 9 wires in my left wing, 7 in my right, and simply routed them through
>snap bushings put in holes in the fwd corner of the ribs.
Why not use grommets?
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
-->
>I have owned a Mouscateer(A-23) and a Sundowner (B-23). The RV flys &
>handles N O T H I N G like the Beech products. Control harmony, speed,
castering nosewheel, but rudder authority at low speeds is good (better
>> than
>> the Beech) and little braking is needed to taxi normally.
The early Mouse that I flew had a castering nosewheel. I don't know what
was done later. I only referred to taxi comparisons. How we got to flying
I have no idea. There is indeed no comparison.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 12/15/00 1:25:17 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ggunn(at)uswest.net writes:
<< What is the advantage of installing conduit? I had planned on using the
plastic bushings only and tie wrapping the wires.
>>
Gary,
Using the bushings and tie wraps might be better because it is light and
simple. The only reason I ran conduit is in case I decide to add something
later (AOA, Heated Pitot, etc.), I can easily snake the additional wires
through the conduit. That would be dificult to do with just bushings and tie
wraps.
Eric Newton Long Beach, MS,
RV-6A N57ME (reserved) (Fuselage)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Circuit Breaker Quesiton |
For those of you using circuit breakers and not fuses...Im doing some panel
planning and have a few questions as to the type (amp) of breaker for a few
applications...
1. Amp rating for breaker for RMI Encoder and Monitor
2. Amp rating for breaker for the electric primer in the ACS book...
3. If I go with a B&C alternator (40a or 60a...havent decided yet)...what
breakers are required...I would guess I need a 1amp and 5 amp for the
regulator...can I use a breaker for the output or is a fuse a better option
here...???
4. If anyone uses the LASAR system with their engine...does it require a
breaker or any any other switches on the panel (other than the obvious
"electronic ign." switch)...???
As always...thanks...
Kurt, OKC, OK, RV6A....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
Hi Gary,
Conduit of some type is not at all a necessity. I suppose it does offer a
bit of additional wire protection. It also provides easier access for the
addition or replacement of wires if the need ever arises.
Oh yea!, I guess it also gives us anal types another something to fret
about.{:~)..
the best to you,
Jim in Kelowna.
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Gunn <ggunn(at)uswest.net>
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 1:22 PM
Subject: Re: Fw: RV-List: Wing wiring
>
> What is the advantage of installing conduit? I had planned on using the
> plastic bushings only and tie wrapping the wires.
>
> Gary Gunn
>
>
> Ernest Kells wrote:
>
> >
> > Bill and Listers:
> > > May I suggest that I think that the plastic wire loom tubing like
van's
> > > sells, or any auto parts store, would be easier and much lighter.
> >
> > I would like to pass a suggestion to the list for feedback. I am
building a
> > basic VFR RV-9A. currently into wings. I was thinking of using the
Van's
> > tubing in both wings (or perhaps the thin wall CPVC). I think that I
could
> > drill out the rear tooling holes to size. They already line up - for
the
> > most part. I am considering running the tubes straight out through the
> > outside rib. All wires included. Then I would run an additional tube
back
> > in a couple of rib bays for the AOA hole and landing lights.
> >
> > Pitot tube holes are separate and there's no electric aileron. This
would
> > seem to make everything accessible under the wing tip. Since I plan to
use
> > a tail strobe I shouldn't have electrical problems. I would like to
conceal
> > basic antenna in the two wing tips as much as possible.
> >
> > Does this seem doable (it seems simple) or what are the problems?
Thanks
> > for your help.
> > Ernest Kells
> > RV-9A - Building Wings, Planning: O-235 Wood Prop
> > Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sears Brand Moto Tool |
Ditto.
My craftsman Vari-Speed Grinder 315.17340 is over 20 years old,
purchased as a reconditioned unit - still runs as good as ever. This is an
(orange label) industrial quality tool.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)rmi.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2000 10:58 AM
Subject: RV-List: Sears Brand Moto Tool
>
> I bought a Sears version of the dremel. I have beat that thing to death
on
> the RV, model airplanes, houshold stuff and all kinds of things for the
last
> 4 years. It still works perfectly. I have never owned a "dremel" brand
> moto tool, but this one sure has worked well. It has even been dropped
> several times with no damage or sign of wear (other than the outside
case!).
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Finish Kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Brenden" <brencotool(at)abq.com> |
I'm planning on putting an oil separator on the firewall of my 0-360
equipped RV-6. Where is the best place on the engine to drain the oil
collected from the separator back to ? Let me know your what works best.
Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | For Sale: O-360 Carb and Fuel Pump |
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
New MA-4-5 carb (shipping box unopenned) and LW15472 mechanical fuel pump
for sale. Both off of new Van's O-360 A1A engine.
MA-4-5 carb (Lycoming part #71710) - $700
LW15472 fuel pump - $100
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (engine baffles)
Vienna, VA
(703) 319-3794
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
Ernest, your plan is similar to what I am doing but let me offer this
suggestion. You don't need to run a short tube back out to the wingtip.
Just drill holes where necessary along the CPVC tubing and run your wires
there. I'm using the AOA and heated pitot tube as you are and I don't see
any problems with this option.
http://mnellis.jnet.net/RV-6_Page/wings_assembly_skeleton_2.htm
Mike Nellis - RV-6 N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
Building Tanks
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca>
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 2:51 PM
Subject: Fw: RV-List: Wing wiring
>
> Bill and Listers:
> > May I suggest that I think that the plastic wire loom tubing like van's
> > sells, or any auto parts store, would be easier and much lighter.
>
> I would like to pass a suggestion to the list for feedback. I am building
a
> basic VFR RV-9A. currently into wings. I was thinking of using the Van's
> tubing in both wings (or perhaps the thin wall CPVC). I think that I
could
> drill out the rear tooling holes to size. They already line up - for the
> most part. I am considering running the tubes straight out through the
> outside rib. All wires included. Then I would run an additional tube back
> in a couple of rib bays for the AOA hole and landing lights.
>
> Pitot tube holes are separate and there's no electric aileron. This would
> seem to make everything accessible under the wing tip. Since I plan to
use
> a tail strobe I shouldn't have electrical problems. I would like to
conceal
> basic antenna in the two wing tips as much as possible.
>
> Does this seem doable (it seems simple) or what are the problems? Thanks
> for your help.
> Ernest Kells
> RV-9A - Building Wings, Planning: O-235 Wood Prop
> Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
Hi Jim,
The only thing you might have misunderstood is that I'm not using Vans
conduit. I'm using CPVC which is a thin wall PVC conduit and it's rather
stiff so it won't sag between the ribs. I used a unibit to bore 7/8" holes
in the ribs which is the same dia as the outside of the CPVC. The fit of
the tubing in the ribs is nice and snug but just to be sure I made up a
couple of collars for the tubing and glued them in place on each side of one
of the ribs so the tubing can not move.
Hope that clears things up. You can check out what I did on this page.
http://mnellis.jnet.net/RV-6_Page/wings_assembly_skeleton_2.htm
Merry Xmas to you and yours as well.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
Building Tanks
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> Maybe it's just the way I read your post. I was left with the impression
> that you did not use some means to fasten the Van's supplied wire conduit
to
> the edges of the ribs that you passed it thru.
>
> " I placed mine in the same lightning hole as the aileron control tube
goes.
> It pretty much just lays down on the lowest part of the hole so as not to
> interfere "
>
> If I am reading this line correctly, you should give some thought to some
> form of attachment being applied.
> In harsh flying conditions or aerobatics the likelihood of abrasion of the
> conduit and subsequently the wires could be dangerous.Further, the
> possibility of an unattached conduit in the same lightening holes as the
> control tube and it getting into conflict with the control system could be
> disastrous.
> If indeed I have read your post incorrectly pay no heed to what I've said
> here and keep on building.
>
> The best of the season to you and yours,
> Jim in Kelowna - fifth point harness mounts
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 9:50 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing wiring
>
>
> >
> > Bill,
> >
> > May I suggest that I think that the plastic wire loom tubing like van's
> > sells, or any auto parts store, would be easier and much lighter. I
> placed
> > mine in the same lightning hole as the aileron control tube goes. It
> pretty
> > much just lays down on the lowest part of the hole so as not to
interfere
> > with the controls. After cutting them to length just before installing
> them
> > with wire ties I ran a string(s) through them using a small nut tied to
> one
> > end. After running it through the wing I cut a small hole above the
pitot
> > tube on the left wing side and snaked one of the strings on that side
> > through the hole. Then it was just a matter of tying the string(s) to
> their
> > respective wires and pulling them through. It worked great and weighed
a
> > couple of pounds less. The tubing is so flexible that it was also much
> > easier to fish the wires out.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> > RV-8A N809RS
> > 12.9 hours
> >
> >
> > >From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To:
> > >Subject: RV-List: Wing wiring
> > >Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 20:18:53 -0500
> > >
> > >
> > >Hello gents,
> > >
> > >It's time for me to put the wiring in the wings. I'm also putting an
AOA
> > >in. What size pvc (I assume that's the right stuff to use?) do I need
to
> > >put in there for a wing light, and strobe flashers along with the aoa
> > >tubing? Do I put this pvc in front of or behind the spar?
> > >
> > >Thanks
> > >Bill
> > >-4 wings....getting ready to rivet skins.
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: oil separator |
> I'm planning on putting an oil separator on the firewall of my 0-360
> equipped RV-6. Where is the best place on the engine to drain the oil
> collected from the separator back to ? Let me know your what works
> best.
I drain mine into a little Matco brake reservoir with a quick drain at the
bottom. I empty it at each oil change. It gets about 1/3 full.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
Like Randy, I too used the snap bushings in my RV-6 wings. Having done the
conduit thing in my RV-4, I just felt that it was more trouble than it was
worth, and in the -6, I ran a nylon cord in each wire bundle to pull a wire
through later if the need arises. Saves a little weight too.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hrs. TT
O-320, Hartzell C/S
RV-6, Fuselage
O-360, Hartzell C/S
pat_hatch(at)msn.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 3:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing wiring
>
> > >May I suggest that I think that the plastic wire loom tubing like van's
> > >sells, or any auto parts store, would be easier and much lighter
> >
> > Please do a flame test on Van's tubing before using it. Apply a propane
> > torch flame to it and decide if you want this material in the cabin of
> your
> > plane where it could possibly ignite from an electrical fire.
>
>
> I'm not sure why everyone seems compelled to use conduit for wing wiring.
I
> have 9 wires in my left wing, 7 in my right, and simply routed them
through
> snap bushings put in holes in the fwd corner of the ribs. I then took a 2"
> piece of spiral wrap and wrapped the wires in the middle of each span
> between ribs. There is no extra weight, nothing to burn, and you can
> visually inspect the entire length through the inspection holes or the
> wingtip. If I ever need to change a wire I will reach up through the
> inspection covers and the rib lightening holes, remove the short sections
of
> spiral wrap, then pull the old wire out or slide the new wire through with
a
> fish tape. I made sure my snap bushings were sized such that there was a
bit
> of extra room for an additional wire or two, but not so large the the
bundle
> would have too much extra motion within the snap bushing so as to wear.
>
> Food for thought,
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, #80500, N558RL, painting, then final wiring, then maybe someday
> hopefully flying
> www.rv-8.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Like what?
Larry Bowen
RV-8 gear boxes
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
[schnip]
> but it is surprising how many little "screw-ups" pop up
> during the test flight period.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A N809RS
> 12.9 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Oil separator Mounting |
I found that the best place to mount it was in the hanger garbage can.
I installed the unit in my RV-4 O-360 and plumbed the return into the crank
case fitting next to the dip stick. From day one I would get a 1" to 2"
diameter puddle of oil out of the breather line after flying.
I had been told that this would go away after the rings seated in. Well
after 60 hours it did not stop and my compression was very good. There were
three of us that all finished are RV's about the same time and they all had
O-360's. Two of us had the oil separator and one did not, both planes with
the separator would get oil out of the breather and the one without was
always dry.
After removing the separator I have not had one drop of oil on the floor.
Rob Hickman
N401RH (Assembling after Painting)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
Hi again Mike,
It's funny how the internet works sometimes. I just got your first email,
this of course long after your "oops" email.
Bye for now,
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald R. Eaves" <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com> |
Run it to a "T" you add to one of the oil return tubes from the valve
covers.
Don Eaves
RV6 - Flying
Cordova TN
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Craig Brenden
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 5:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: oil separator
I'm planning on putting an oil separator on the firewall of my 0-360
equipped RV-6. Where is the best place on the engine to drain the oil
collected from the separator back to ? Let me know your what works best.
Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
Posted for a friend:
2 wood props for sale (used)
one Aylmer Demuth 180 hp cruise pitch ($400)
one Irlbeck 180 hp cruise pitch with spinner, backplate, etc. ($350)
both have long prop extensions
Contact Tom Berge: 612-541-9306 (evenings)
Thanks
Doug
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | manual vs. electric trim in RV8 |
Well,
I made the plunge. I ordered my tail kit last Wednesday and my tool kit
yesterday. For ten years I've wanted to build an airplane, now I finally get
to start!!!
I did a search in the archive for this question, but wasn't able to get very
far: Is it possible to rig the rear seat of the -8 with manual trim? Or
should I go with the electric trim for ease of installation? I would like the
backseater to have trim control, since most of my friends are pilots and will
probably want to have a try at flying such a dream machine and I'd rather
spend the time looking out that beautiful canopy than tweaking the trim.
Bob Moser
East Bethel, MN
-8 tail and tool kit ordered
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
Jim,
I think it's because the first message went to the RV List and the second
went to you directly. The Matronics server processes all the messages and
sends them out but at intervals. I usually see them about 1/2 hour or so
after I post them, sometimes longer.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net>
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 10:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing wiring
>
>
> Hi again Mike,
>
> It's funny how the internet works sometimes. I just got your first
email,
> this of course long after your "oops" email.
>
> Bye for now,
> Jim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: manual vs. electric trim in RV8 |
>
>
>Well,
>I made the plunge. I ordered my tail kit last Wednesday and my tool kit
>yesterday. For ten years I've wanted to build an airplane, now I finally
>get
>to start!!!
Good for you! I guarantee you're going to LOVE the end result.
>
>I did a search in the archive for this question, but wasn't able to get
>very
>far: Is it possible to rig the rear seat of the -8 with manual trim? Or
>should I go with the electric trim for ease of installation? I would like
>the
>backseater to have trim control, since most of my friends are pilots and
>will
>probably want to have a try at flying such a dream machine and I'd rather
>spend the time looking out that beautiful canopy than tweaking the trim.
>
I would not bother with back seat trim at all. Once the trim is set for
cruise, you won't have to mess with it very much. When I was getting my
checkout in the back seat of Jeff Ludwig's -8, I only had to ask for trim
adjustments a couple of times in five hours of flying. Trim needs during
landing approaches are minimal when dual and it's easy for the back seater
to maintain approach speed with just back-stick pressure alone and it gives
them a more solid feel of the airplane leading into the roundout and flare.
Have fun with your project.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
160 hrs.
down for annual
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: oil separator |
In a message dated 12/15/00 3:46:03 PM Pacific Standard Time,
brencotool(at)abq.com writes:
<< I'm planning on putting an oil separator on the firewall of my 0-360
equipped RV-6. Where is the best place on the engine to drain the oil
collected from the separator back to ? >>
The only people that seem to have problems with the use of oil separators are
those that insist on draining the condensate back into the engine somehow.
The best way is not to. Get the cheapie ACS unit and modify it to put an
access plate on it (similar to the fuel tank end plates) so that you can
stuff two large stainless steel pot scrubber pads in it. Plumb the drain to
a Matco brake fluid reservoir or something similar with a Saf-air (sp) or
Curtis valve so you can drain it when you do your oil change.
It may help you baseline and monitor general engine condition if you keep
track of the volume drained over time.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
>
> What is the advantage of installing conduit? I had planned on using the
> plastic bushings only and tie wrapping the wires.
Van will applaud you, Gary. Keep it light by leaving out as much as
possible. I put about 4 feet of cheapo black plastic tubing in each of my
quickbuild's wings only because it was the only way to get the wires in the
root ends.
Instead of tie wraps I used inch long pieces of shrink tube and shrunk after
threading in the wires. Looks good but only time will tell.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | McCauley Governor Bracket |
I just recieved my O-360 and McCauley governor from Van's. Has anyone made
a bracket for this and if so do you have a pattern or discription?
Ross Mickey
6-A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: manual vs. electric trim in RV8 |
>
>Well,
>I made the plunge. I ordered my tail kit last Wednesday and my tool kit
>yesterday. For ten years I've wanted to build an airplane, now I finally get
>to start!!!
>
>I did a search in the archive for this question, but wasn't able to get very
>far: Is it possible to rig the rear seat of the -8 with manual trim? Or
>should I go with the electric trim for ease of installation? I would like the
>backseater to have trim control, since most of my friends are pilots and will
>probably want to have a try at flying such a dream machine and I'd rather
>spend the time looking out that beautiful canopy than tweaking the trim.
>
>Bob Moser
I don't think there is any easy way to have Van's manual trim system
with a control in two places. You would have to design your own
system from scratch. Any mod to the plans always adds a lot more
time than you think it should. So, I would not go down this road
unless you are more interested in building than you are in flying.
Electric trim would be easy to wire with a switch in each cockpit.
Brian Denk's comments about the need for trim in each cockpit are
worth pondering over as well.
Have fun,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRGSCHMIDT(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Lost Builder's Log |
Get in touch with Mac Childers who now lives in Payson and he will be more
than glad to help you. He is going to do mine and John's this summer and has
been watching the progress since the beginning. Try to keep a hard copy for
him to read after you have summarized your projects life.
Greg
RV6S
wiring and canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: McCauley Governor Bracket |
>
> I just recieved my O-360 and McCauley governor from Van's. Has anyone
made
> a bracket for this and if so do you have a pattern or discription?
>
Van's sells a bracket for the prop control cable. It fits either the
McCauley (which I installed on my 0-360) or the Woodward governor.
Jerry Carter
Memphis, TN
My RV-8A website:
http://rv8asite.homestead.com/mainpage.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Franklin" <rickfranklin(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 with Auto Engine |
I am trying to add a cabin heater to my RV-6 (Ser 20069,N2ST, still in
building stage), but cannot as yet decide the best route to go. Can any of
you auto engine users give me a lead? Especially on the shroud/duct/dump
valve/firewall opening.
Thanks
Rick
--- Rick Franklin
--- rickfranklin(at)earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas E. Bostard" <dougacft(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 12/15/00 |
My separator is on the firewall and it's from a Cessna 150. It's right
under and adjacent to the brake fluid reservoir. By way of a reducer,
it drains into a 1/8" ID hose that goes to a fitting (small brass-barbed
and clamped) tapped into the dipstick tube BELOW the level of the
separator. Careful..mine is plastic. I have one because I have a wet
vacuum pump which sill spit out a pint an hour on the belly absent the
separator. I speakjfrom bitter experience. I'm not sure that it will
work for the breather, bu I think it would. I can't tap into it with
the breathr since I think a 'Y' would tend to pressurize the crankcase,
but I'm not sure.
I know others who weld a sureflow 'Y' into an exhause pipe to burn off
any overboard residue. Again, avoiding pressurizing the crankcase is a
factor to avoid. You can lose even more oil that way if you don't also
blow the seal (an x-rated eskimo euphemism) on the front of the shaft.
Hope you get help. Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lost Builder's Log |
Hey Paul,
Don't sweat it. Most DAR,s are not really interested in a builders log or
even photos. All that is required of them is that you provide a notarized
statement saying that YOU constructed at least 51% of the aircraft. That
covers their ass with the feds, and if it later turns out that you falsified
the statement, the feds come after you.
The DAR's main concern is that the aircraft meets all the legal airworthiness
requirements, and is indeed airworthy. Also don't forget to have the DAR
submit the repairman certificate application so you can legally perform the
condition inspections on your bird.
Regards,
Bill Mahoney
RV-6 N747W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Sheehan <ctsheehan(at)home.com> |
Is Van's selling the Orndorff videos or something else? If not Orndorff,
how do they compare?
Thanks,
Chris Sheehan
(waiting for wing kit)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry <bpote(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | possible linux virus |
I sent email to Warren Gretz asking info on heated pitot.
I got a normal email reply , which was no problem.
BUT...I got a second email from his email address that said something
about a "LINUX TXT file". It was an attachment that had to be opened to
be seen.
My NORTON ANTI VIRUS said not to open it. There was a possible virus.
Now, it could have been that NORTON doesn't like or know LINUX.
But, a call to Warren to order the parts I wanted,....
Warren knows nothing of LINUX! He didn't send it. He is looking into
it.
Barry RV9a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry <bpote(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | aluminum block Chevy 4.3 V6 ? |
Anyone have a friend getting out of the racing business that has
a Chevy 4.3 V6 aluminum block they want to get rid of?
Barry RV9a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry <bpote(at)erols.com> |
I believe they are the same.
Barry
Chris Sheehan wrote:
>
>
> Is Van's selling the Orndorff videos or something else? If not Orndorff,
> how do they compare?
>
> Thanks,
> Chris Sheehan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | A novices opinion on RV-6 versus RV-9 |
Dear listers,
I am not an F-16 pilot, or a United Captain with 18,000 hrs. However it is
precisely because of my inexperience that I think I am particularly
qualified to address this corner of this issue.
Experience: 180 hrs. 100 in RV-4, Pilots license April 2000 (with 73hrs in
the book, all in a c-152) First solo in RV-4 July 3, 2000. Tailwheel
endorsement July 3, 2000.
The point I am trying to make here is that I am a RANK NOVICE, and I learned
to fly my RV-4 with no problems. I benefitted from the experience of a very
careful and patient instructor. This instructor is also an FAA designated
inspector (probably wrong term), for homebuilt aircraft. He likes RVs
although he doesn't own one. First step was an inspection of the airplane.
We decided to temporarily install the rear rudder pedals for training. For
the next 10 flight hours, I flew from the BACK seat. At first it was
frustrating. However, it forced me to use my peripheral vision when landing
and taxiing. This skill is useful to any pilot. After 10 hrs, I was still
a little squirley on the landing rollout, but was landing competently. I
had also figured out how to keep the nose straight when I pushed in the
throttle on takeoff. (so THIS is P factor) Time to switch to the front.
Wow, I could see straight ahead now. This is much easier. None the less,
we spent another 10 hrs total with me flying in the front seat. It was at
this point that we decided to install the electric flaps. I was having
difficulty getting the flaps fully deployed and my instructor felt it would
be safer for me to not have to worry about the flaps. Yes it cost $400.
But hey, thats what a door hinge costs for a 172. (always look on the
bright side) Once I installed the electric flaps, we practiced some no flap
landings in case of failure, and I was signed off. With one significant
restriction (A gentlemans agreement, since I had my license he couldn't
legally restrict me) The restriction was that I not fly passengers until I
had another 10 hrs in the plane solo and not fly in wind greater than 10 kts
with no more than 5 kts xwind component until my 10 hrs was up.
Was it a handful in the beginning, YES. Am I glad I now have a fast, fun,
FULLY AEROBATIC airplane now, absolutely.
My final point is this. If you are contemplating building an RV-9 because
you are concerned about your abbility to handle a '6, don't worry. Slow,
deliberate training can address that issue. I am definitely no superstar
and I was flying my '4 three months after tetting my license. In the 5
months since my sign off, I have flown my RV about 80 hrs. It is FANTASTIC.
I would not trade away any of what this plane is capable of in the
interest of making it an easier plane to transition to.
If you want a 9 for the extra safety of a slower stall speed, better short
field performance, better IFR platform, etc. Its a different story
altogether. Go for it.
Best regards,
Don Mei (Can't go flying now, its rainy out here in CT.)
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fitting Tank Skins |
I taped one side of the ribs to the skin before pulling the skin down. It
kept them pretty close to the right location where you could use a pick
through the drilled skin holes and get them perfect. I hope this helps!
Mike
-sealing the second tank on my RV-4
How have others dealt with lining up the tank ribs with the pre punched
holes in the tank skin.=A0 Unlike the leading edge ribs there are no
lightening holes to allow for using my wooden pole to move the ribs
around.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
Building Tanks
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Circuit Breaker Quesiton |
> 3. If I go with a B&C alternator (40a or 60a...havent decided
yet)...what
> breakers are required...I would guess I need a 1amp and 5 amp for the
> regulator...can I use a breaker for the output or is a fuse a better
option
> here...???
I used a 3 amp and a 5 amp. 3 amp just because that'll protect a #20 wire
just fine, and that's what it's for anyway. B&C specifies 5Amp for the ALT
FLD.
For the output I used a big fuse, mainly on Aeroelectric Bob's
recommendation (and purchased from him). For more on that go to his web site
http://www.aeroelectric.com.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Lost Builder's Log |
My FAA man (avoided the DAR with this airplane) never looked at anything
beyond my photo album. Good thing, too, because all I had beyond that was
check marks and date legends in the margins of my builder's manual. They can
usually tell with in a few minutes' conversation with you whether you know
the plane as only the builder would.
Paul, I'm going to snap those flap position sensor pix for you tonight if I
can. Look for email with attachments shortly.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/FP Sensenich
Hop-Along Airfield - 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: vortex generators |
Has anyone else installed and flown the VG kit from Vetterman? I spoke with
Larry at some length about the VG's (what a nice and helpful guy), and they
sound like the best $350 you could spend on your airplane, but I'm wondering
if Van himself has gotten his hands on a set and tried them out.
I would think that, as proud as Van is of his Vso/Vmax ratios, he would
investigate and endorse a simple technology that reduces Vso by 10 mph
indicated and has no apparent effect on Vmax (or should I say on max cruise).
Even if they never became standard-issue in the kits, I think they'd make a
popular option. However, I'd feel better about sticking a set on my plane if
the RV list reflected a broader experience with them, and especially if Van
was impressed.
Now about that "indicated" part... at landing AOA, the pitot error must be
getting pretty steep. Anyone have a guess what the true airspeed delta is,
if the indicated delta is around 10 mph??
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/FP Sensenich
Hop-Along Airfield - 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lost Builder's Log |
I've never come across anything "official" which said what a builder's log
is actually supposed to be or how often and when you need to be inspected
and by who. Where is all that? In the FAR? Has someone exptrapolated and
interpreted the home builder parts from the government regs and put them out
for us to see?
lucky
>From: SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com To:
>rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Lost Builder's Log Date: Sat,
>
>
>My FAA man (avoided the DAR with this airplane) never looked at anything
>beyond my photo album. Good thing, too, because all I had beyond that was
>check marks and date legends in the margins of my builder's manual. They
>can usually tell with in a few minutes' conversation with you whether you
>know the plane as only the builder would.
>
>Paul, I'm going to snap those flap position sensor pix for you tonight if I
>can. Look for email with attachments shortly.
>
>Bill Boyd RV-6A O-320/FP Sensenich Hop-Along Airfield - 12VA Clifton Forge,
>VA
>
>
>Contributions of List members.
>http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 with Auto Engine |
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 with Auto Engine
>
>
> I am trying to add a cabin heater to my RV-6 (Ser 20069,N2ST, still in
> building stage), but cannot as yet decide the best route to go. Can any of
> you auto engine users give me a lead? Especially on the shroud/duct/dump
> valve/firewall opening.
> Thanks
> Rick
Rick,
I have a Mazda Rotary engine in my RV-6A. I use a small light weight
oil cooler with fan attached to its back that I installed in cabin to
provide cabin heat using the available hot water from the engine. You could
use ram air from outside to push air through heater, but I used a 12 Volt
fan. I used two bulkhead AN fittings to route water to and from heater
through the FW and a valve (cable controlled) to turn the flow of hot water
on and off.
Ed Anderson
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Lost Builder's Log |
Just for the record, since Canadian builders might search the archives for
this topic in the future:
In Canada, it is a requirement to document progress and keep all receipts.
The Canadian inspector have a checklist to go through with the builder and
he must verify proper documentation in order to sign off.
When I had my first pre-cover inspection, I had to show the inspector what
methods I used to keep track of progress and receipts. He only gazed at the
first page of my print-out and said "good enough". Note: Nowhere does it say
how detailed the documentation must be, just to 'keep track of progress'.
FWIW, If I lost my log, I would attempt to create a very rough log (if
nothing else) and learn from the experience and start backing up my hard
drive. I also print out a new copy every two weeks or so and add it to one
of my project binders.
Are
RV-8 Wings
C-GQRV (Reserved)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of lucky macy
Sent: December 16, 2000 10:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lost Builder's Log
I've never come across anything "official" which said what a builder's log
is actually supposed to be or how often and when you need to be inspected
and by who. Where is all that? In the FAR? Has someone exptrapolated and
interpreted the home builder parts from the government regs and put them out
for us to see?
lucky
>From: SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com To:
>rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Lost Builder's Log Date: Sat,
>
>
>My FAA man (avoided the DAR with this airplane) never looked at anything
>beyond my photo album. Good thing, too, because all I had beyond that was
>check marks and date legends in the margins of my builder's manual. They
>can usually tell with in a few minutes' conversation with you whether you
>know the plane as only the builder would.
>
>Paul, I'm going to snap those flap position sensor pix for you tonight if I
>can. Look for email with attachments shortly.
>
>Bill Boyd RV-6A O-320/FP Sensenich Hop-Along Airfield - 12VA Clifton Forge,
>VA
>
>
>Contributions of List members.
>http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | 6-A-QB Verticle Stabalizer |
List: I am wondering what people have done concerning an offset of the
Verticle Stabalizer? I believe Van's doesn't recommend this do to various
engine prop combinations but since I will be using a new 0-360-A1A and
Hartzel Constant Speed what have other builders done?
My A\P says the little wedge added to the Verticle Stab should not
be seen on Aircraft unless it is a Spam Can.
Scott if you are out there if Van's knew the specific engine prop
combo's would they know a specific successful offset for my setup?
Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Cantrell <kcflyrv(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 6-A-QB Verticle Stabalizer |
Tom,
I offset my VStab 1/8" to the left in hopes that I can avoid a trim tab on
the rudder. Unfortunately I won't be able to give you any results for about
a year or so. I beleive Van mentions that some builders do this to
compensate for torque and so I decided to do it as well.
Ken Cantrell - 6QB
34KC reserved - FWF & electrical stuff
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom & Cathy Ervin <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2000 3:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: 6-A-QB Verticle Stabalizer
>
> List: I am wondering what people have done concerning an offset of the
> Verticle Stabalizer? I believe Van's doesn't recommend this do to various
> engine prop combinations but since I will be using a new 0-360-A1A and
> Hartzel Constant Speed what have other builders done?
> My A\P says the little wedge added to the Verticle Stab should not
> be seen on Aircraft unless it is a Spam Can.
> Scott if you are out there if Van's knew the specific engine prop
> combo's would they know a specific successful offset for my setup?
>
> Tom in Ohio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: vortex generators |
----- Original Message -----
From: <SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2000 3:41 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: vortex generators
>
>
> Has anyone else installed and flown the VG kit from Vetterman
10 mph indicated is optimistic. I saw about 7mph indicated. This has been
verified
with 2 other RV's. I know that one of the RV's used a calibrated airspeed
boom. That takes
AOA out of the equation Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lost Builder's Log |
>My FAA man never looked at anything beyond my photo album....
Agreed. I had a builder's log going for a while, there, but forgot an entry
here and there and then everywhere and it got to be not a good record of my
progress. I wasn't thinking at the time that I would need it for the
inspector (this airplane will never get done enough to NEED an inspector).
I took lots of pictures, more to keep track of how I did things. That is
what I showed to the inspector, along with a sprinkling of photos of the
builders (Kelli and I) pounding things together, with adequate backgrounds
to show the shop(s) it was built in.
As your inspector looks over the airplane, be standing by to show him
little cool things you did. All they want to know is if you actually built
the thing or had it built, and if you have intimate knowledge of the
construction, it will be obvious who built it. And, I might add, there are
more than a few airplanes that HAVE been built by someone else that have
been passed off as being built by the owner.
I think, if you are freaking out and really need something, make up a rough
guess as to what time you spent on what and keep that. Mostly, however,
don't worry. Whoever said backup, backup: that may have rubbed salt in an
open wound but there is a modicum of truth in there. I kept multiple copies
of my Aircraft Manual because it took so much time to do.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Yes, it DID come together enough to be inspected............
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | RV-List :Dremel tools |
I have a variable speed Dremel that I would have had a hard time building
our airplane without. At some time, doing the wing tips, I think
(fiberglass: yuck), the variable speed control tanked. I ordered a new
control for I think $12 and installed it without problem and haven't had
any problems since.
Whatever the brand, I think a Dremel type tool is one of those "must-have"
tool. VERY useful. There were times I could have used the flexible adaptor
but got on without it. If you're cutting cable of any kind, nothing works
better. I always keep a supply of fiber cutter wheels on hand: cuts
fiberglass, cable, steel, aluminum. I also have a small supply of various
sized burrs. Very handy. I'll have to have Santa look at the Robels.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Verticle Stabalizer offset |
>List: I am wondering what people have done concerning an offset of the
>Verticle Stabalizer..........
I offset mine, and I would do it again. Problem is, figuring out how much.
It's a crap shoot.
>My A\P says the little wedge added to the Verticle Stab should not be seen
>on Aircraft unless it is a Spam Can....
OK, let him build one and look into the future to see how much to offset
the thing.
I think trim involves much more than just the engine/prop combination. How
straight is your airplane? What trim effects do the gear and/or wing
fairings have? And probably things we can't guess. The only way to truly
find out how it is trimmed is to fly. Then it is too late to reset the
offset. Here comes the trim tab. Your A&P wouldn't have one but his right
leg would keep getting bigger and bigger............
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Trimmed with a not to noticeable trim tab.............
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Acceptable repairs |
I made a goof on one of my wing ribs and made a quick repair. When I was
finished and stood back to admire it, I thought that I could maybe have made
the attachment on the rib larger with room for more rivets. I couldn't find
this particular answer in AC43.
Can anyone tell me if they think this repair is acceptable? I rather redo it
now (before skinning) if it could be better or not pass inspection.
Please click on link for picture.
http://www.avsim.com/hangar/fly/hangar/rib1.jpg
Thanks,
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6-A-QB Verticle Stabalizer |
In a message dated 12/16/00 3:33:39 PM Pacific Standard Time,
tcervin(at)valkyrie.net writes:
>
> List: I am wondering what people have done concerning an offset of the
> Verticle Stabalizer? I believe Van's doesn't recommend this do to various
> engine prop combinations but since I will be using a new 0-360-A1A and
> Hartzel Constant Speed what have other builders done?
> My A\P says the little wedge added to the Verticle Stab should not
> be seen on Aircraft unless it is a Spam Can.
> Scott if you are out there if Van's knew the specific engine prop
> combo's would they know a specific successful offset for my setup?
>
> Tom in Ohio
>
>
>
Tom, I offset my VS 3/16" to the left on my RV-4 180 CS and it didn`t
need a trim tab, ball is in the center. But........... YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY.
Fred LaForge RV-4 EAA Tech C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: vortex generators |
>
>
>Has anyone else installed and flown the VG kit from Vetterman? I spoke with
>Larry at some length about the VG's (what a nice and helpful guy), and they
>sound like the best $350 you could spend on your airplane, but I'm wondering
>if Van himself has gotten his hands on a set and tried them out.
>
>I would think that, as proud as Van is of his Vso/Vmax ratios, he would
>investigate and endorse a simple technology that reduces Vso by 10 mph
>indicated and has no apparent effect on Vmax (or should I say on max cruise).
> Even if they never became standard-issue in the kits, I think they'd make a
>popular option. However, I'd feel better about sticking a set on my plane if
>the RV list reflected a broader experience with them, and especially if Van
>was impressed.
>
>Now about that "indicated" part... at landing AOA, the pitot error must be
>getting pretty steep. Anyone have a guess what the true airspeed delta is,
>if the indicated delta is around 10 mph??
>
>Bill Boyd
Bill,
You are 100% correct to be a bit suspicious. There may be a large
decrease in the indicated airspeed at the stall, but the decrease in
the calibrated airspeed is likely to be much less than 10 mph.
I don't have any good references on the effect of vortex generators
on stall speed. I did find one report on AvWeb that looked at an STC
sold by one of the companies that specializes in VGs. They claim
about a 4% reduction in stall speed with flaps extended, which
equates to a 8% increase in the maximum coefficient of lift. They
presumably have done the proper testing to verify the stall speed
claim. A 4% reduction in stall speed on an RV would be about 2 mph.
See:
http://www.avweb.com/articles/vortexge.html
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Acceptable repairs |
Hi again Are,
I had similar problems and after talking with an A&P friend he says that my
fix (the same as yours) is perfectly acceptable. In fact, I seem to
remember reading somewhere that this fix has been blessed by Vans as well.
It looks like you used some leftover stiffener to make your flange. I
needed a bit more length, so I just took some scrap and made my own angle
with 1/2" x 3/4" for the flange portion.
http://www.mnellis.jnet.net/RV-6_Page/images/Wings/DCP01560.JPG
http://www.mnellis.jnet.net/RV-6_Page/images/Wings/DCP01525.JPG
Mike Nellis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2000 9:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: Acceptable repairs
>
> I made a goof on one of my wing ribs and made a quick repair. When I was
> finished and stood back to admire it, I thought that I could maybe have
made
> the attachment on the rib larger with room for more rivets. I couldn't
find
> this particular answer in AC43.
>
> Can anyone tell me if they think this repair is acceptable? I rather redo
it
> now (before skinning) if it could be better or not pass inspection.
>
> Please click on link for picture.
>
> http://www.avsim.com/hangar/fly/hangar/rib1.jpg
>
> Thanks,
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: vortex generators |
In a message dated 12/16/2000 7:19:34 PM Eastern Standard Time,
bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net writes:
> Bill
> Is that quote for a 10 mph decrease in Vso for an RV?
> Suspicious
> Tom
> RV3 978TM
> Northern California
>
Direct quote from Larry Vetterman when I spoke to him Thursday night.
-Bill
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP
Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM |
I purchased my variable speed Dremel in 1974. I find myself constantly using
it. Its been sounding a little dirty lately, probably needs new brushes but
it sure works good.
I don't know how the new ones are, although from the list members it sounds
like quality has gone down.
John Danielson
Engine Installation and finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM |
Well I finally made my first screwup (Ha Ha Ha!!!!!).
After installing my nice new exhaust system (Vettermans) I proceeded to drill
and install my EGT probes. All went well and I didn't notice anything until 2
days later when I noticed that I hadn't installed the bottom spark plugs when
installing the probes.
Well everything is OK on the left side of the engine (probes were install
facing at about 45 deg. aft) but the right side is a different story. The
probes are right in the way of the spark plugs.
A call to VANS and after talking with Tom Green he thinks I'll be OK. The SS
hose clamp that holds the probe in posistion will cover up the hole I drilled.
I did mention to him about maybe having this hole welded up and he thought I
should just check it in a year or two, if it seems to be enlarging have
welded up then.
John Danielson
Engine installation and finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Acceptable repairs |
Hello,
Though your repair may be acceptable, I suggest you just order a replacement
rib from Van's. The price is right though the shipping and handling will
bite. You'll get it in a week or so and be able to move on without it
bugging you every time you look/think about it. I too botched a rib among
other things.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 Fuselage
Moscow, ID USA
> Can anyone tell me if they think this repair is acceptable? I rather redo
it
> now (before skinning) if it could be better or not pass inspection.
>
> Please click on link for picture.
>
> http://www.avsim.com/hangar/fly/hangar/rib1.jpg
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: running lines |
> I have been trying to run the brake, fuel, & vents lines.
Fun, ain't it? I had to buy more tubing before it was said and done.
> Don't see how I can make the lines go through the side & then bend &
> flare the tubing.
Brake lines: I have a 6A and put a 90 degree bulkhead so that it exited
right above the leading edge of the gear leg fairings.
Fuel lines: I put the gasolator outside in the wing root area. The
transition is with bulkhead fittings and adaptor fittings.
Vent Lines: I kept these in front of the bulk head (don't know the number)
This is different than the plans, i think.
> How did you guys stand off the lines?
I used a combination of adell clamps, tye staps and plastic hose.
> Did you cut a notch in the F602 BH for the brake line to hug the skin?
Mine runs along the floor and up.
Ross
6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas E. Bostard" <dougacft(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 12/16/00 |
You can always browse the junkyard fo one...I browsed an aircraft
salvage yard in Sacramento and bouht a nice Cessna 150 firwall unit-easy
to install lower right firewall on a 6A. Also, mounted the 2" outlet
fitting going to the heatmuff inlet on the shroud around the #3 cyl just
above the heatmuff at the back baffle. Gets prewarmed air there. Hope
this helps. Don't know about auto. I have separate valve behind
firewall which diverts heat to pilot side defrost. I had to invent this
box from fiberglass with inner workings of aluminum. Good luck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Acceptable repairs |
Thanks for the help everyone!
It wouldn't bother me to order another rib but I also have a similar fix on
four other ribs under the wing-walk - except this time on the end that is
attached to the rear spar. The design of the ribs/spar doesn't give proper
edge distance the way the rib comes so a fix like this is the only
acceptable way of doing it.
If I order another rib, the edge distance will instantly be insufficient
since the pre-punched holes on the bottom of the rear spar (under the
doubler fork) only gives a 1/2D edge distance when drilled to the ribs.
I posted the concern regarding the ribs under the wing-walk before and
surprised there was no response from other RV-8 builders.
Thanks again,
Are
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of himsl
Sent: December 17, 2000 2:48 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Acceptable repairs
Hello,
Though your repair may be acceptable, I suggest you just order a replacement
rib from Van's. The price is right though the shipping and handling will
bite. You'll get it in a week or so and be able to move on without it
bugging you every time you look/think about it. I too botched a rib among
other things.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 Fuselage
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 6-A-QB Verticle Stabalizer |
Thanks Fred! The general solution seems to be 1/8 to 3/16 inch offset to
the left withthis engine prop combination. Almost everyone said no trim tab
needed after the mod.
RV4 Guys seem to say 3/16" & RV6 builders say 1/8" for best
results.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: <Ferdfly(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2000 10:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 6-A-QB Verticle Stabalizer
>
> In a message dated 12/16/00 3:33:39 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> tcervin(at)valkyrie.net writes:
>
>
> >
> > List: I am wondering what people have done concerning an offset of the
> > Verticle Stabalizer? I believe Van's doesn't recommend this do to
various
> > engine prop combinations but since I will be using a new 0-360-A1A and
> > Hartzel Constant Speed what have other builders done?
> > My A\P says the little wedge added to the Verticle Stab should
not
> > be seen on Aircraft unless it is a Spam Can.
> > Scott if you are out there if Van's knew the specific engine prop
> > combo's would they know a specific successful offset for my setup?
> >
> > Tom in Ohio
> >
> >
> >
>
> Tom, I offset my VS 3/16" to the left on my RV-4 180 CS and it
didn`t
> need a trim tab, ball is in the center. But........... YOUR MILEAGE MAY
VARY.
>
> Fred LaForge RV-4 EAA Tech C.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Help identify RV-4 Engine Mount |
I purchased a finishing kit for a RV-4 and I can't figure out what engine
mount I have. I looked through the blueprints and manual and cannot find any
information on how to tell what mount I have. Can anyone help me identify
what I have? I could send a JPEG of it if it would help. Thanks
-Mike
75% done with wings, sealed right tank yesterday!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Lost Builder's Log |
<< pbesing(at)rmi.net >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Graves <rlgbee(at)fnbnet.net> |
| Subject: | Vert Speed Indicators |
We have two RVs, each with a 2 1/4" rate of climb indicator. Fairly
new. Neither
have worked since installed. Locked on some up or down position.
Anybody else have the same problem with this size indicator?
Robert in Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "elizabeth lincoln" <curby1(at)shianet.org> |
I would get the holes welded now. Thers no way the clamp is going to seal
the exhaust leak. Leaking exhaust can be very dangerous.
Andy
----- Original Message -----
From: <JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2000 12:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Screw ups
>
> Well I finally made my first screwup (Ha Ha Ha!!!!!).
> After installing my nice new exhaust system (Vettermans) I proceeded to
drill
> and install my EGT probes. All went well and I didn't notice anything
until 2
> days later when I noticed that I hadn't installed the bottom spark plugs
when
> installing the probes.
> Well everything is OK on the left side of the engine (probes were install
> facing at about 45 deg. aft) but the right side is a different story. The
> probes are right in the way of the spark plugs.
> A call to VANS and after talking with Tom Green he thinks I'll be OK. The
SS
> hose clamp that holds the probe in posistion will cover up the hole I
drilled.
> I did mention to him about maybe having this hole welded up and he thought
I
> should just check it in a year or two, if it seems to be enlarging have
> welded up then.
>
> John Danielson
> Engine installation and finishing kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
> After installing my nice new exhaust system (Vettermans) I proceeded to
drill
> and install my EGT probes. All went well and I didn't notice anything
until 2
> days later when I noticed that I hadn't installed the bottom spark plugs
when
> installing the probes.
> Well everything is OK on the left side of the engine (probes were install
> facing at about 45 deg. aft) but the right side is a different story. The
> probes are right in the way of the spark plugs.
> A call to VANS and after talking with Tom Green he thinks I'll be OK. The
SS
> hose clamp that holds the probe in posistion will cover up the hole I
drilled.
> I did mention to him about maybe having this hole welded up and he thought
I
> should just check it in a year or two, if it seems to be enlarging have
> welded up then.
>
> John Danielson
> Engine installation and finishing kit
John,
I did EXACTLY the same thing. I think the probes will just clear the spark
plugs however so at this point, prior to installing the spark plugs and
connectors, I think I may get lucky. I'm not sure I'd be comfortable though
relying on the clamp to cover the hole. If mine don't clear the spark plugs
I will have the holes welded up.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, painting, then final hookup of everything
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Acceptable repairs |
In a message dated 12/17/00 6:26:36 AM Pacific Standard Time,
abarstad(at)bconnex.net writes:
<< Thanks for the help everyone! >>
Are: Just my humble opinion but it seems like you are getting a lot of
non-expert responses when a phone call, e-mail or fax to Van's would get you
a knowledgeable and reliable answer to your question.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Next project here's what I'll do WAS:Lost Builder's Log |
I know what I need - a carrot and a stick!
For my next project I'll make entries in my builder's log daily if anything
happened that is logable. Only then can I have a cup of coffee. Then,
after I update my TODO list, I can have more coffee!
Several people have told me to have photos and keep a log of each items
completion and the date and sign it. Like:
15 Dec 00 Rudder completed. signature
This looks like what an A&P puts in logs.
The nice thing about a photo log is that you can go back and look at it
later. I've often gone back and looked at just how much I had already done
and it would give me strength to go on.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com |
| Subject: | Epoxy-Fiberglass Question |
Hi all,
Doing some elevator tip work (boy, I'm glad the RV is aluminum). I'm utilizing
epoxy to secure
balsa wood inside the fiberglass tip ends. Is epoxy compatible with the tips Vans
supplies?
Thanks,
Jack Textor
Des Moines, IA
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Rib to Spar - Design flaw? |
Am I missing something? It seems to weird that only I have this problem.
Harry Crosby brought up a good point though: Van's should be able to tell me
if it's a 'go' or not with my earlier rib fix. I have made the following web
page to prove that all these ribs must be repaired in order to pass
inspection (at least here in Canada).
Here's the link that I will send Van's: (This time it's much more
illustrative). Please have a look if you're building an RV-8.
http://www.bconnex.net/~abarstad/RibToSpar.html
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Epoxy-Fiberglass Question |
Jack, Yes, epoxy will stick better than just about everything else. I'd sand the
inside of the tip to roughen it up and then wipe it clean w/ alcohol or something.
If your using laminating epoxy, I'd mix some cotton flock with the resin
to get a peanut butter consistency. JB weld will work, too.
Rick Caldwell
-6 170 hrs
Melbourne, FL
From: pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com
Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Epoxy-Fiberglass Question
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2000 14:21:41 -0500 (EST)
-- RV-List message posted by: pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com
Hi all,
Doing some elevator tip work (boy, I'm glad the RV is aluminum). I'm utilizing
epoxy to secure
balsa wood inside the fiberglass tip ends. Is epoxy compatible with the tips Vans
supplies?
Thanks,
Jack Textor
Des Moines, IA
RV8
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Acceptable repairs |
Harry wrote:
> Just my humble opinion but it seems like you are getting a lot of
> non-expert responses when a phone call, e-mail or fax to Van's would get
you
> a knowledgeable and reliable answer to your question.
Harry, this a put down for all who try to be helpful and it is wrong.
My not so humble opinion is that to fail to take advantage of the
discussions, answers and all else that is available from this great group is
a mistake.
For example, Tom Green, whom I like a lot, told me one time that steel was
hundreds of time stronger than aluminum. The real answer is as low as two!
Hal Kempthorne
N7HK - Might fly next week!
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, working on canopy installation
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6-A-QB Verticle Stabalizer |
I'm not to the point of mounting my Empannage yet, but will someone explain
what it means to "offset" the VStab to the left? It seems to me, right
rudder is called for and all the trim tabs I recall were 'V' wedges fastened
to the left face (pilot's side) of the rudder. This has the effect of
pushing the rudder to the right so the pilot does not have to hold right
rudder to fly with the ball centered at cruise. So, does "offset" mean that
the nose of the VStab is offset to the pilots side, relative to the trailing
edge of the VStab? If so, 3/8" as mentioned by another listener would seem
to be a large amount.
Marty in Brentwood TN, RV6A "belly skinning" (snowed last night and this
morning was 9 degrees in Nashville area - I guess I'll study plans instead
of drilling holes in the garage today).
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Cantrell" <kcflyrv(at)pacbell.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2000 6:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 6-A-QB Verticle Stabalizer
>
> Tom,
> I offset my VStab 1/8" to the left in hopes that I can avoid a trim tab on
> the rudder. Unfortunately I won't be able to give you any results for
about
> a year or so. I beleive Van mentions that some builders do this to
> compensate for torque and so I decided to do it as well.
>
> Ken Cantrell - 6QB
> 34KC reserved - FWF & electrical stuff
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Tom & Cathy Ervin <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2000 3:33 PM
> Subject: RV-List: 6-A-QB Verticle Stabalizer
>
>
> >
> > List: I am wondering what people have done concerning an offset of the
> > Verticle Stabalizer? I believe Van's doesn't recommend this do to
various
> > engine prop combinations but since I will be using a new 0-360-A1A and
> > Hartzel Constant Speed what have other builders done?
> > My A\P says the little wedge added to the Verticle Stab should
not
> > be seen on Aircraft unless it is a Spam Can.
> > Scott if you are out there if Van's knew the specific engine prop
> > combo's would they know a specific successful offset for my setup?
> >
> > Tom in Ohio
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Stall Speeds/Vortex Generators |
OK, here I open a can of worms....
I put vortex generators on my RV6A....what is REALLY puzzling me is how to
reasonably determine the stall speed.
I am using a TAS indicator...where should it be set? How does one account
for all the variables without a drogue (spelling) static port, and without a
very long pitot pick up?
I take off at 7,500-feet, and do stalls at 10 to 11,000 msl so that probably
needs to be taken into account....I am really out of my area of expertise
(expertise, heck...out of my skimpy knowledge of such things!)
Let's hear some down to earth ideas....PLEASE!
Rv6A Flying Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rib to Spar - Design flaw? |
>
>
>Am I missing something? It seems to weird that only I have this problem.
>
>Harry Crosby brought up a good point though: Van's should be able to tell
>me
>if it's a 'go' or not with my earlier rib fix. I have made the following
>web
>page to prove that all these ribs must be repaired in order to pass
>inspection (at least here in Canada).
>
>Here's the link that I will send Van's: (This time it's much more
>illustrative). Please have a look if you're building an RV-8.
>
>http://www.bconnex.net/~abarstad/RibToSpar.html
>
>Are
>RV-8 Wings
>
Are,
Yes, the spacing should be corrected by Van's...just because it's the right
thing to do..not because it's truly necessary. The current spacing won't be
a problem. I made no special provisions to correct this in my airplane. It
passed FAA inspection, it flies just fine. You have to take each edge
distance issue with the big picture in mind...there are a lot of fasteners
holding the airplane together. Van designs a lot of strength into his
airplanes. Build on.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
160 hrs.
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rib to Spar - Design flaw? |
Are,
Nice picture! Very clear statement of the problem.
Are you sure the holes being near the radius is a problem? Is there a rule
that says that a radius counts as an edge? The edge is on the flange it
seems to me. After all, the reason for any edge distance is to keep the
aluminum from tearing. Rivet should not be in the radius and no part should
press against the radius.
Where the rib attaches is another "kit" error. There are actually many -
maybe fewer in yours than in my 6AQB The hole should be punched further up
so as to allow the proper edge distance for the hole in the rib. I'd be
inclined to install the rivet there and back it up with another close by.
What are the options? Not replace the rear spar. Van's will probably say
that it is okay as is. Here's one - put on a second flange on the other
side of the rib that extends up several rivets and drill a new hole in the
spar. But, I doubt it is necessary.
Maybe some of the experts will contribute.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stall Speeds/Vortex Generators |
> I put vortex generators on my RV6A....what is REALLY puzzling me is how to
> reasonably determine the stall speed.
>
I have my VG set, but haven't installed them yet. When I do, I'm going to look
at both indicated airspeed and groundspeed as measured on the GPS. Between the
two, I should get a reasonable idea of what the VGs are doing. However, the GPS
comparison figure is just for academic interest and has no real value.
The bottom line is that I don't really care what my calibrated or true stall
speeds are. From the operational point of view of the pilot, all that really
matters is Indicated. (Yes, I'm wearing my asbestos suit) I want to know how
"my" plane is going to respond in a short or power off landing configuration;
these being the times that the benefits of VGs will most come into play.
Indicated will always give that information in an easy to use and dependable
manner. Any other number is fairy irrelevant to the task at hand at that moment.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Stall Speeds/Vortex Generators |
>
> I am using a TAS indicator...where should it be set? How does one account
> for all the variables without a drogue (spelling) static port, and without a
> very long pitot pick up?
>
> I take off at 7,500-feet, and do stalls at 10 to 11,000 msl so that probably
> needs to be taken into account....I am really out of my area of expertise
> (expertise, heck...out of my skimpy knowledge of such things!)
>
John: the altitude will not affect the indicated stall speed; just report
your numbers. As for the TAS feature, can't you disregard the TAS window and
read the IAS scale? That would allow the best direct comparison. I hope you
had some good data before the VG's were installed.
Whose VG's did you use and what stall speed difference did you see? How was
the handling affected? Larry says it really makes the plane feel less like
the bottom is about to fall out on slow final.
Thanks for info.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP
Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stall Speeds/Vortex Generators |
John wrote:
>
>
> OK, here I open a can of worms....
>
> I put vortex generators on my RV6A....what is REALLY puzzling me is how to
> reasonably determine the stall speed.
>
> I am using a TAS indicator...where should it be set? How does one account
> for all the variables without a drogue (spelling) static port, and without a
> very long pitot pick up?
>
> I take off at 7,500-feet, and do stalls at 10 to 11,000 msl so that probably
> needs to be taken into account....I am really out of my area of expertise
> (expertise, heck...out of my skimpy knowledge of such things!)
>
> Let's hear some down to earth ideas....PLEASE!
>
> Rv6A Flying Salida, CO
>
Can you fly with a similarly configured RV? Compare indicated airspeeds
in slow flight, then use GPS in each plane (same heading) to compare
stall speeds. Not scientific to be sure, but it would at least it would
give you and the rest of us who want to know some idea about the
improvement over 'stock.'
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV8 S-cowl forward platenuts |
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
12/17/2000 05:16:16 PM
I just went to drill the holes for the forward attach points to install the
platenuts that go in the inside air intakes on the S cowl closest to the
spinner. The plans call out for three number 8 plate nuts and show a
flange that appears to be about three inches by 3/4 inch to attach them to.
Mine is no where near that big. Closer to two inches by about 1/2 inch.
The best I can do is to install one platenut at best. I have not trimmed
this area so what I have is what was shipped to me in the finish kit.
Did anyone else have this problem? If so, what did you do?
Thanks,
Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( cowling... )
O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
http://www.homestead.com/RV8A/files/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
| Subject: | Help the underpriviledged at Christmas |
This is legit and easy to do. I know some may think the List is no place
for this, but have a heart.
Merry Christmas,
John Kitz
Here is an easy way to make a difference this holiday
season. Campbell's is donating a can of soup to the
needy for every person that goes to their site
and votes for their favorite NFL team. Go to the
site and it is right there, very easy to do. It will
only take a few seconds of your time to fill some
empty tummies with warm soup this winter.
Please forward this message to everyone in your
address book too. Thanks.
http://www.chunky.com/click_cans.cfm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Canopy Skirt RV 6A |
Looking at the Sam James Figerglass video (Fiberglas 101) I noticed he did
his caopy skirt on his RV in Fiberglass. Anyone else try this and if so, any
advice, suggestions as to procedure or other impressions?
Mike Garramone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Rib to Spar - Design flaw? |
Thanks for the reply Hal,
I think a rivet can be as little as 1.5x (or maybe 1x) away from the radius
of a bend, so this is ok - as you thought. The best possible fix I can think
of is to cut off and replace the flange on the rib with one that is big
enough (or add a flange as you mentioned, but then I still have several
holes with only 1/8" edge distance). The new flange will have to follow some
of the bend to get 1/4" edge distance but I can't see anything wrong with
this.
If I leave it alone: The 1/8" edge distance may be ok since there are many
holes (well, actually only 4 on some of these ribs). However, I would still
be concerned that a crack could start here and 'spread' and would rather
avoid having only half the 'legal' edge distance if I could.
Are
RV-8 Wings
Are you sure the holes being near the radius is a problem? Is there a rule
that says that a radius counts as an edge? The edge is on the flange it
seems to me. After all, the reason for any edge distance is to keep the
aluminum from tearing. Rivet should not be in the radius and no part should
press against the radius.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Reeves Family" <wdaphdas(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Corrosion Already?!? |
I purchased my RV-6A empennage kit a little over a year ago but I am just
now starting to work on it. When the kit first arrived, I inventoried the
two boxes and then tucked everything away on a wood shelf in the basement
while I collected tools, attended a workshop, and mostly procrastinated
getting started. My basement is very dry. However, Pennsylvania is very
humid. All of the parts were removed from the boxes and the shipping paper,
the protective vinyl coating left on, and then they were all laid out
together on one of the white foam sheets that everything was shipped with.
I then laid another foam sheet on top of the parts to keep the dust off.
When I recently started pulling parts off the shelf, I noticed some thin,
white, salt-like crystals on some of the ribs that didn't have the
protective vinyl coating on them. I didn't worry too much about it since I
could brush most of it off with my fingers. However, I started inspecting
everything much closer and unfortunately found much heavier deposits on the
vertical stabilizer skin. This stuff was underneath the vinyl coating on
both sides, all the way around the edges, from the edge of the skin in to
where the rivet holes start. The vinyl coating was still on tight. When I
pulled the vinyl back about an inch from the edges, the corrosion had eaten
through the alclad in several spots close to the edge. All of the other
skins seemed OK.
Has anyone else experienced something like this? I am not sure why only
this skin and some of the ribs have the problem. I was planning on priming
things as I go but maybe I need to reconsider and prime everything as soon
as they come in the door. Any insights would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Dan - empennage corroding in Pennsylvania.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
Listers:
I feel like it really is our duty to hang out at the airport. Some may call
us airport bums but we know it is necessary to be at the place where
something interesting may happen.
I was out there this afternoon "supervising" the first flight of a Dragonfly
after an engine rebuild and sell. A N996RV called in for airport advisory
and I thought that might be an RV, considering the number. Went and met the
folks in the striking yellow and dark blue RV-4 and was surprised to find it
was Mike and Diana, of the trip to Venezuela, which I had heard about from
the list and Doug's Reeves' website http://www.vansaircraft.net . Too bad
they had to buy our local, high priced gas, but it was certainly nice to
meet them and get the abbreviated account of their adventures.
They seem to be doing well; well there was just a bit of grousing about
saddle sores after 62 hours in the cockpit, but they were cheerful. They
will enjoy getting home though.
Mike and Diane left here right at sunset heading for Tucson International
and are hoping to make it home to Aurora, OR late tomorrow. Their stop
previous to Carlsbad was Waco, TX.
Wow! I am in awe. Two people hop into a 4 with its small luggage
compartment and hop down to Venezuela and back. Amazing people and amazing
machines.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CRASHOCONNOR(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly |
Posting]
Is there anyone out there that has come up with an in flight and pre-flight
checklist for an RV6A. I have recently purchased an RV6A and it did not come
with one. I would be most grateful for anyone's help in this matter.
Thank You
Mike O'Connor
Email crashoconnor(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Hollifield <billhollifield(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Battery Question, Tip Tanks, and First Flight |
I am not yet a builder, and had my first flight in an RV6A today. Had a
great time in a beautiful one built by Bruce Wright here in Friendswood
Texas (N99BW). The plane is absolutely loaded. You name it, he's got it.
I have been reading a lot and noticed some details I have not seen before.
In particular he mounted the (sealed) battery behind the pilots seat, with
the master relay and starter solenoid there also. He walled in that
compartment from the rest of the luggage compartment. Says it has no
adverse cg effects and really opened up the area below the panel. (There is
also no vertical console below the panel.)
Has anyone else done this? Opinions? I thought it seemed to be a great
idea, with only minor problems with battery cable length.
He had just mounted new wingtips incorporating tiptanks and this was a test
flight with them. According to him, they seemed to increase the airspeed
significantly - he was surprised. Anyone else have this experience?
We went over to Bruce Bohannon's grass strip and I got to see the Exxon
plane. All in all, a great day of flying and a great introduction to RVs.
Bill Hollifield
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Simpson <airtime(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Venezuela Trip |
Here's a pic of Mike and Diane, and their RV...
http://www.airtimemfg.com/Images/mikesRV4.jpg
It sure is a nice one. He said he'd give me a ride, but it was getting late
in the day, and they had to get back home *bleah*
SOMEDAY, I'll get my first ride in an RV...(he he, hint hint)...
I was in awe too, hearing Mike tell of his plans to fly down there, when he
flew into Propst Field (here where I live) to buy a Ti-down kit. He had
plans to try the Ti-downs out in the coral reef in the Bahamas, or some
exotic place. Can't wait to hear how they work in that situation *smile*
Randy Simpson
Albany, Oregon
http://www.airtimemfg.com
-------------
>
>Listers:
>
>I feel like it really is our duty to hang out at the airport. Some may call
>us airport bums but we know it is necessary to be at the place where
>something interesting may happen.
>
>I was out there this afternoon "supervising" the first flight of a Dragonfly
>after an engine rebuild and sell. A N996RV called in for airport advisory
>and I thought that might be an RV, considering the number. Went and met the
>folks in the striking yellow and dark blue RV-4 and was surprised to find it
>was Mike and Diana, of the trip to Venezuela, which I had heard about from
>the list and Doug's Reeves' website http://www.vansaircraft.net . Too bad
>they had to buy our local, high priced gas, but it was certainly nice to
>meet them and get the abbreviated account of their adventures.
>
>They seem to be doing well; well there was just a bit of grousing about
>saddle sores after 62 hours in the cockpit, but they were cheerful. They
>will enjoy getting home though.
>
>Mike and Diane left here right at sunset heading for Tucson International
>and are hoping to make it home to Aurora, OR late tomorrow. Their stop
>previous to Carlsbad was Waco, TX.
>
>Wow! I am in awe. Two people hop into a 4 with its small luggage
>compartment and hop down to Venezuela and back. Amazing people and amazing
>machines.
>
>Larry Pardue
>Carlsbad, NM
>
>RV-6 N441LP Flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Canopy Skirt RV 6A |
Rick , I'd also like to hear about the making of your rear skirt. I knew
awhile ago to get the fit I wanted it was gonna have to be fiberglass.
capsteve(at)adelphia.net
Steven DiNieri
I made my rear skirt sliding canopy on my -6 out of fiberglass/epoxy. Very
easy to do if you know the basics of fiberglass layups. The steel slider
frame was high by 1/2" or so on the left side and perfect on the right. I
had the choice of cutting & rewelding the steel frame or making the rear
skirt out of fiberglass. I chose the later since I don't have a welding
rig. I stayed with the al. side skirts. The rear skirt fits like it was
molded to the fuselage. This would have been impossible for me to get the
al. pieces to fit the compound curves as well as my FG rear skirt. If you
want details on how to make the skirt, contact me directly.
Rick Caldwell
-6 170 hrs
Melbourne, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Corrosion Already?!? |
Dan: I live in Delaware, just like Penn it is really humid I have a
quickbuilt and it has a slight case of spot corrosion. From experience
with my previous RV I prime everything as soon as I can. I have not had
any trouble with vinyl covered parts though. The secret is prime and build
fast.
Harvey Sigmon - RV-6AQB Almost finished.
> [Original Message]
> From: Reeves Family <wdaphdas(at)msn.com>
> To:
> Date: 12/17/00 8:33:51 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Corrosion Already?!?
>
>
> I purchased my RV-6A empennage kit a little over a year ago but I am just
> now starting to work on it. When the kit first arrived, I inventoried the
> two boxes and then tucked everything away on a wood shelf in the basement
> while I collected tools, attended a workshop, and mostly procrastinated
> getting started. My basement is very dry. However, Pennsylvania is very
> humid. All of the parts were removed from the boxes and the shipping
paper,
> the protective vinyl coating left on, and then they were all laid out
> together on one of the white foam sheets that everything was shipped with.
> I then laid another foam sheet on top of the parts to keep the dust off.
>
> When I recently started pulling parts off the shelf, I noticed some thin,
> white, salt-like crystals on some of the ribs that didn't have the
> protective vinyl coating on them. I didn't worry too much about it since
I
> could brush most of it off with my fingers. However, I started
inspecting
> everything much closer and unfortunately found much heavier deposits on
the
> vertical stabilizer skin. This stuff was underneath the vinyl coating on
> both sides, all the way around the edges, from the edge of the skin in to
> where the rivet holes start. The vinyl coating was still on tight. When
I
> pulled the vinyl back about an inch from the edges, the corrosion had
eaten
> through the alclad in several spots close to the edge. All of the other
> skins seemed OK.
>
> Has anyone else experienced something like this? I am not sure why only
> this skin and some of the ribs have the problem. I was planning on
priming
> things as I go but maybe I need to reconsider and prime everything as soon
> as they come in the door. Any insights would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Dan - empennage corroding in Pennsylvania.
>
>
>
>
>
>
--- Harvey Sigmon
--- flyhars(at)earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jayeandscott" <jayeandscott(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vert Speed Indicators |
How are they hooked up? Or are they open to the back of the panel? I sthe
sensing port on the back unplugged?
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Graves <rlgbee(at)fnbnet.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2000 11:29 AM
Subject: RV-List: Vert Speed Indicators
>
> We have two RVs, each with a 2 1/4" rate of climb indicator. Fairly
> new. Neither
> have worked since installed. Locked on some up or down position.
> Anybody else have the same problem with this size indicator?
> Robert in Texas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ristic Vlastimir <rileyu(at)rad.net.id> |
salegica(at)centrin.net.id, rv6-list(at)matronics.com, prima(at)flite.net,
p-nikola(at)EUnet.yu, nina.topic(at)pu.tel.hr, mnesa(at)net.yu, MisterRaven(at)AOL.COM,
crmacak(at)EUnet.yu, Skydive(at)EUnet.yu, MDjSOKO(at)AOL.COM, sky-naum(at)EUnet.yu,
Kadarjan Sebastian , jkrivaja(at)inet.hr,
ivanmpopovic(at)hotmail.com, ivanpop(at)EUnet.yu, indonesian-skydiver(at)egroups.com,
galebre(at)ntlworld.com, ekross(at)qwest.net, engines-list(at)matronics.com,
ekross(at)uswest.net, galebre(at)dmanojlovic.freeserve.co.uk, aerodb(at)yubc.net,
demo_yu(at)yahoo.com, paradar(at)yubc.net, shawnm(at)sprint.ca, calagx(at)nigol.net.ng,
ccaglobal(at)pacific.net.ph, hobbylan(at)sby.globalinfo.net,
budid(at)sby.centrin.net.id, biosco(at)EUnet.yu, pocky(at)yubc.net, pocky(at)beotel.yu,
felia2(at)sby.dnet.net.id, supergaleb(at)excite.com
Dragi Drugari,
Ne otvarajte nikakav atashment sa moje strane jer postoji mogudjnost da
vam dodje automatski sa mog konpjutera.Radi se o nekom virusu koji je
napravio dar-mar kod mene a dolazi sa Vladinog konpjutera.
Dear friends,
Please do not open any attachment from me because it contain virus which
can damage your files.
Virus came automaticly to me from another friend and damaged my files.
Regards,
RILE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jayeandscott" <jayeandscott(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stall Speeds/Vortex Generators |
You're right. Indicated airspeed is all the wing works on- TAS and GS are
for navigating. The only variable could come from unstable air -as in slight
updrafts or downdrafts occuring during the two test flights.
----- Original Message -----
From: Builder's Bookstore <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2000 2:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stall Speeds/Vortex Generators
>
> > I put vortex generators on my RV6A....what is REALLY puzzling me is how
to
> > reasonably determine the stall speed.
> >
>
> I have my VG set, but haven't installed them yet. When I do, I'm going to
look
> at both indicated airspeed and groundspeed as measured on the GPS. Between
the
> two, I should get a reasonable idea of what the VGs are doing. However,
the GPS
> comparison figure is just for academic interest and has no real value.
>
> The bottom line is that I don't really care what my calibrated or true
stall
> speeds are. From the operational point of view of the pilot, all that
really
> matters is Indicated. (Yes, I'm wearing my asbestos suit) I want to know
how
> "my" plane is going to respond in a short or power off landing
configuration;
> these being the times that the benefits of VGs will most come into play.
> Indicated will always give that information in an easy to use and
dependable
> manner. Any other number is fairy irrelevant to the task at hand at that
moment.
>
> Andy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jayeandscott" <jayeandscott(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6-A-QB Verticle Stabalizer |
I think that is what it means. The offset of the vert stab leadingedge is to
angle it into the clockwise(viewed from behind) rolling of the air coming
off the propellor. Sounds like a good idea-and it should be a zero-drag
solution over a small tab on the rudder trailing edge.
----- Original Message -----
From: Emrath <Emrath(at)home.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2000 12:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 6-A-QB Verticle Stabalizer
>
> I'm not to the point of mounting my Empannage yet, but will someone
explain
> what it means to "offset" the VStab to the left? It seems to me, right
> rudder is called for and all the trim tabs I recall were 'V' wedges
fastened
> to the left face (pilot's side) of the rudder. This has the effect of
> pushing the rudder to the right so the pilot does not have to hold right
> rudder to fly with the ball centered at cruise. So, does "offset" mean
that
> the nose of the VStab is offset to the pilots side, relative to the
trailing
> edge of the VStab? If so, 3/8" as mentioned by another listener would
seem
> to be a large amount.
>
> Marty in Brentwood TN, RV6A "belly skinning" (snowed last night and this
> morning was 9 degrees in Nashville area - I guess I'll study plans instead
> of drilling holes in the garage today).
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ken Cantrell" <kcflyrv(at)pacbell.net>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2000 6:39 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: 6-A-QB Verticle Stabalizer
>
>
> >
> > Tom,
> > I offset my VStab 1/8" to the left in hopes that I can avoid a trim tab
on
> > the rudder. Unfortunately I won't be able to give you any results for
> about
> > a year or so. I beleive Van mentions that some builders do this to
> > compensate for torque and so I decided to do it as well.
> >
> > Ken Cantrell - 6QB
> > 34KC reserved - FWF & electrical stuff
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Tom & Cathy Ervin <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
> > To:
> > Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2000 3:33 PM
> > Subject: RV-List: 6-A-QB Verticle Stabalizer
> >
> >
>
> > >
> > > List: I am wondering what people have done concerning an offset of the
> > > Verticle Stabalizer? I believe Van's doesn't recommend this do to
> various
> > > engine prop combinations but since I will be using a new 0-360-A1A and
> > > Hartzel Constant Speed what have other builders done?
> > > My A\P says the little wedge added to the Verticle Stab should
> not
> > > be seen on Aircraft unless it is a Spam Can.
> > > Scott if you are out there if Van's knew the specific engine
prop
> > > combo's would they know a specific successful offset for my setup?
> > >
> > > Tom in Ohio
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gar & Jan Pessel" <pessel(at)ptialaska.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stall Speeds/Vortex Generators |
----- Original Message -----
From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2000 2:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stall Speeds/Vortex Generators
I have never tried VG's on an RV, but I can testify definitively on their
effect on a Super Cub. I am not at all sure if they lower the stall speed
to an great degree, but the benefits are clear. They increase the stability
and aileron response at very low airspeeds, (minimum controllable airspeed,
i.e. near the critical angle of attack) making the airplane much easier to
land, particularly in short field conditions. My wife calls them "super
cheaters." This effectively makes it possible to slow down more and land
short, especially under non-ideal conditions. More important, they
substantially reduce the tendency of a Cub to spin out of a cross-controlled
turning stall. This is a notorious killer of Cub pilots. Thus, the main
benefit is safety and control, not a huge reduction in stall speed.
I cannot say that I notice any reduction in cruise speed in a Cub, but then
a Cub is so slow anyway, one would hardly care.
I cannot say if they would do the same on an RV, but I suspect the effect is
there. Vetterman is a highly experienced Cub pilot, and he would clearly
know what he is looking for in such a modification.
Gar Pessel, Fairbanks, AK RV6- got the engine hung and plumbed, scratching
my head over wiring and other incomprehensible stuff.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 6-A-QB Verticle Stabalizer |
1/4 " offset to left on my 160hp RV3. Feet off at 180 mph indicated.
(my usual indicated cruise speed)
Tom
RV3 978TM
jayeandscott wrote:
>
> I think that is what it means. The offset of the vert stab leadingedge is to
> angle it into the clockwise(viewed from behind) rolling of the air coming
> off the propellor. Sounds like a good idea-and it should be a zero-drag
> solution over a small tab on the rudder trailing edge.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Emrath <Emrath(at)home.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2000 12:37 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: 6-A-QB Verticle Stabalizer
>
> >
> > I'm not to the point of mounting my Empannage yet, but will someone
> explain
> > what it means to "offset" the VStab to the left? It seems to me, right
> > rudder is called for and all the trim tabs I recall were 'V' wedges
> fastened
> > to the left face (pilot's side) of the rudder. This has the effect of
> > pushing the rudder to the right so the pilot does not have to hold right
> > rudder to fly with the ball centered at cruise. So, does "offset" mean
> that
> > the nose of the VStab is offset to the pilots side, relative to the
> trailing
> > edge of the VStab? If so, 3/8" as mentioned by another listener would
> seem
> > to be a large amount.
> >
> > Marty in Brentwood TN, RV6A "belly skinning" (snowed last night and this
> > morning was 9 degrees in Nashville area - I guess I'll study plans instead
> > of drilling holes in the garage today).
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Ken Cantrell" <kcflyrv(at)pacbell.net>
> > To:
> > Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2000 6:39 PM
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: 6-A-QB Verticle Stabalizer
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Tom,
> > > I offset my VStab 1/8" to the left in hopes that I can avoid a trim tab
> on
> > > the rudder. Unfortunately I won't be able to give you any results for
> > about
> > > a year or so. I beleive Van mentions that some builders do this to
> > > compensate for torque and so I decided to do it as well.
> > >
> > > Ken Cantrell - 6QB
> > > 34KC reserved - FWF & electrical stuff
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Tom & Cathy Ervin <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
> > > To:
> > > Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2000 3:33 PM
> > > Subject: RV-List: 6-A-QB Verticle Stabalizer
> > >
> > >
> >
> > > >
> > > > List: I am wondering what people have done concerning an offset of the
> > > > Verticle Stabalizer? I believe Van's doesn't recommend this do to
> > various
> > > > engine prop combinations but since I will be using a new 0-360-A1A and
> > > > Hartzel Constant Speed what have other builders done?
> > > > My A\P says the little wedge added to the Verticle Stab should
> > not
> > > > be seen on Aircraft unless it is a Spam Can.
> > > > Scott if you are out there if Van's knew the specific engine
> prop
> > > > combo's would they know a specific successful offset for my setup?
> > > >
> > > > Tom in Ohio
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stall Speeds/Vortex Generators |
Incorrect, the wing works on Angle of Attack not airspeed.
For example, load the plane up to gross and it might stall at say.....55
mph.
Take that same plane loaded to gross up to 8000' and do some steep turns and
I'll guarantee that it will stall at a lot higher speed than 55 mph.
It's all about Angle of Attack not IAS. Typical stall warning devices are
angle of attack sensors not airspeed sensors.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
Building Tanks
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
>
> You're right. Indicated airspeed is all the wing works on- TAS and GS are
> for navigating. The only variable could come from unstable air -as in
slight
> updrafts or downdrafts occuring during the two test flights.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Builder's Bookstore <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2000 2:37 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Stall Speeds/Vortex Generators
>
>
>
> >
> > > I put vortex generators on my RV6A....what is REALLY puzzling me is
how
> to
> > > reasonably determine the stall speed.
> > >
> >
> > I have my VG set, but haven't installed them yet. When I do, I'm going
to
> look
> > at both indicated airspeed and groundspeed as measured on the GPS.
Between
> the
> > two, I should get a reasonable idea of what the VGs are doing. However,
> the GPS
> > comparison figure is just for academic interest and has no real value.
> >
> > The bottom line is that I don't really care what my calibrated or true
> stall
> > speeds are. From the operational point of view of the pilot, all that
> really
> > matters is Indicated. (Yes, I'm wearing my asbestos suit) I want to know
> how
> > "my" plane is going to respond in a short or power off landing
> configuration;
> > these being the times that the benefits of VGs will most come into play.
> > Indicated will always give that information in an easy to use and
> dependable
> > manner. Any other number is fairy irrelevant to the task at hand at that
> moment.
> >
> > Andy
> >
> >
>
December 12, 2000 - December 17, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-jv