RV-Archive.digest.vol-jx
December 22, 2000 - December 31, 2000
without a phone?
Check our web site, we have recently added the "Beeper Box" - a beeper
activated switch to allow you to turn your heater on or off from home.
Bob Reiff
Reiff Preheat Systems
www.execpc.com/reiff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Pump Installation |
5.0.3 (Intl)|21 March 2000) at 12/22/2000 12:19:21 PM
I have a Bendix electric boost pump that was thrown in with my engine. It
looks just like the cylindrical "interrupter-type" pumps that Facet makes
(as opposed to the box-shaped Facet pumps Van's uses). I know the Piper
series use the cylindrical Facet pumps but I haven't seen the Bendix one on
an aircraft before. Does anyone know what aircraft this might have come
off of, and if it can be mounted horizontally?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuse center section and jig...
>
>From: bcbraem(at)home.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Gascolator - Fuel Pump Installation
>
>
>Ross--
>
>The AirFlow Performance pump mounts horizontally as opposed to the
>Facet. You can see a picture of Eustace's first mount of this type
>(gascolator) in "18 Years of The RV-Ator".
>
>Boyd
>N600SS/IO-540
>240 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Burns" <hsierra(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: seat belt cost |
i have to agree with the other guy, we are spending 30,000 or more to build
an airplane and some people want to try and save the 300 bucks hooker
charges? i dont get it. my ass is worth 300 bucks, i will do without some
of the toys before i scrimp on seat belts.
Just my .02
R. Burns
RV-4 s/n 3524 N82RB
> OK, now what part of your airplane does that NOT apply to? The paint,
> maybe. I'm happy for you that you can afford the best of everything. The
> rest of us have to use our judgement to put our money where WE think it is
> needed to make this very expensive project possible, and yes, safe too,
> relative as that is.
>
> Terry
> RV-8A fuselage
> Seattle
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Burns" <hsierra(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fly with the vinyl on? |
vans only uses the vinyl coating for one reason. to keep the CNC head from
damaging the alclad during prepunching.
R. Burns
RV-4
S/N 3524 N82RB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Winters" <dtw_rv6(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2000 9:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: fly with the vinyl on?
>
> Please remove the vinyl from your sheet metal before riveting the pieces
> together. This is definitely a poor alternative to the many corrosion
> prevention methods. This coating is put on the sheets to protect the
> material from shipping and handling damage. You can actually order the
same
> material from the mill with no coating if you want -- it's even a little
> cheaper that way.
>
> The vinyl will give you almost no protection from corrosion, and I would
> wager that it will actually promote the collection of moisture in the long
> run.
>
> Don Winters
> Wings
> http://www.geocities.com/dtw_rv6
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of lucky macy
> Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2000 6:38 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: fly with the vinyl on?
>
>
> OK, I see a trend of a reading comprehension problem going on here. The
> question had nothing to do with a physical problem pulling the vinyl off,
> being lazy, etc. It's actually a technical question as to whether or not
> the vinyl would help prevent corrosion on the internal skins if left on
when
> the builder would otherwise not resort to priming the inside of the skins.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "<Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com> |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with ESMTP id
for" ;
Fri,
22 Dec 2000 14:11:37.-0500(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Dual Fuel Gauge |
12/22/2000 02:12:14 PM
This is why I'm merely installing a fuel guage to appease the FAA. My
favorite fuel guage is a marked stick and a clock. I do plan on upgrading
to one of Matts fuel flow meters since I think that surpasses even my
trusty stick in reliability. I am hoping to find a functional analog unit
for cheap, cheap that will only take up one hole in the panel. I'm sure the
EI is a great unit but I'd rather put that money into a fuel flow computer.
A very Merry Christmas to all my fellow RV builders, flyers, and dreamers
out there. May 2001 be a year of major aviation gains for us all.
Eric Henson
"Dennis Persyk" (at)matronics.com on 12/22/2000
12:25:00 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dual Fuel Gauge
Dennis Said
>>>>. I don't trust fuel gauges in general, but
the extremely non-linear level function of the RV tank adds additional
complications. I have the SW resistive senders.
1) How does the programming function deal with the first 2-3 gallons of
burnoff causing no decline in apparent fuel level?
2) Does the algorithm handle the two or three inflection points in the fuel
level Vs gallons remaining curve?
Thanks.
Dennis Persyk N600DP 25 hours snowed in at C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
Very Preliminary observations of the VG installation on my RV6A:
1. Lift off is 'cleaner' and sharper, and subjectively I think sooner.
2. Full flap stalls are FAR more gentle...no sharp breaks, significantly
more warning before the stall.
3. Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI) on the plane was set so that stall occurred
exactly when the needle 'hit' the
red segment of the dial face. NOW, without readjustment, stall occurs
when the indicator is about
1/3rd of the way INTO the red zone, indicating that the angle of attack
is significantly greater before
stall occurs.
4. Full flaps and fully reduced throttle and very gentle back pressure
allows the plane to just "sit" on the
edge of stall...the airframe is giving all sorts of physical indications
of impending stall, but you can hold
it at that point just out of stall and the plane just mushes ahead while
sinking.
5. Stalls are straight ahead, and the angle of the nose is much less
'downward' when stall occurs than before. I assume that's because lift
recovery is faster than without the Vg's.
Obviously, to me at any rate, the Vg's are greatly and positively affecting
the plane.
I have more or less given up on getting a "number" as to stall speed...the
VG's are giving me so much warning (and along with the LRI) that I really
don't need more information.
More later if appropriate.
Rv6A Flying Salida, CO
Flame away!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: seat belt cost |
Are you saying that the factory seatbelts are somehow unsafe? I'm pretty
sure they have saved a lot of people over the years. I imagine a 5pt
harness may offer better protection, but how much (if any)? And if that's
the case where does it stop? We're in far more danger of being in a car
accident, than in an airplane accident so should I rip out the seatbelts in
my Saturn and replace *them* with a 5pt harness? I agree that my ass, too,
is worth $300, (maybe even more ) but I don't think they justify the
added weight or expense.
I imagine wearing a full-face motorcycle helmet would be *more* protective
too, but I'm not going to do that either. There is a point of diminishing
returns even in something as important as safety, and everyone needs to find
their own balance.
Just my .02, too.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A, N427EM, 400hrs
0320-D1A (160hp)Sensenich 70x78
ebundy(at)micron.net
> i have to agree with the other guy, we are spending 30,000 or more to
build
> an airplane and some people want to try and save the 300 bucks hooker
> charges? i dont get it. my ass is worth 300 bucks, i will do without some
> of the toys before i scrimp on seat belts.
>
> Just my .02
>
> R. Burns
> RV-4 s/n 3524 N82RB
>
> > OK, now what part of your airplane does that NOT apply to? The paint,
> > maybe. I'm happy for you that you can afford the best of everything.
The
> > rest of us have to use our judgement to put our money where WE think it
is
> > needed to make this very expensive project possible, and yes, safe too,
> > relative as that is.
> >
> > Terry
> > RV-8A fuselage
> > Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Van's response on reaming |
Since I just installed my wings, and had to ream my holes to get the
bolts to fit, I emailed Van's about it...below is what Gus said:
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
Paul,
Sorry to hear about your troubles with the spar. I'm quite surprised,
because my experience has been that these are a very good fit; I
have helped with three kits as well as mine and none have needed
any reaming. The strength of the spar is not compromised if the fit
of the bolts is a bit loose. The concern would rather be that they
will work in use and gradually elongate the holes. However, this
depends on how sloppy they are to start with. If you just reamed
enough to get the bolt in it should be OK.
Gus
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630)
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 12/19/00 |
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)telus.net> |
There's an RV-6A POH and a set of flight test log cards on the web site of
Van's Air Force Western Canada Wing.
http://www.vansairforce.org
Tedd McHenry
Van's Air Force
Western Canada Wing
tedd(at)vansairforce.org
www.vansairforce.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dual Fuel Gauge |
"
>
> This is why I'm merely installing a fuel guage to appease the FAA. My
> favorite fuel guage is a marked stick and a clock. I do plan on upgrading
> to one of Matts fuel flow meters since I think that surpasses even my
> trusty stick in reliability. I am hoping to find a functional analog unit
> for cheap, cheap that will only take up one hole in the panel. I'm sure the
> EI is a great unit but I'd rather put that money into a fuel flow computer.
>
> A very Merry Christmas to all my fellow RV builders, flyers, and dreamers
> out there. May 2001 be a year of major aviation gains for us all.
>
> Eric Henson
>
Eric
This is the way my hanger partner had his hooked up in his RV-6.
He just used a single Stewert Warner guage and a switch to switch
between the tank senders, worked well for him for many years. I have
one of Matts FuelFlow meters in my RV-6 and it works great.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | reaming spar joint attach holes |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: reaming spar joint attach holes
Thread-Index: AcBryULWA875IewaThaULNGLaO43tAAkoAKg
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Paul,
I think you're fine, I elongated one in the center section and Tom told
me to leave it alone. There's a lot of bolts in there. If you look at
the newer spar design (the -8 and -9) there simply is much less material
in the center section, and those airplanes aren't falling out of the
sky.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 64 hours
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul Besing [mailto:pbesing(at)rmi.net]
> Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2000 9:38 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: reaming spar joint attach holes
>
>
>
> So what happens if you already reamed the holes?? Is my
> plane going to fall
> out of the sky because the bolts are no longer close
> tolerance and jammed in
> there with a hammer?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | earl fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's response on reaming |
The bolts on the spar of my RV4 were very tight also. I coated the bolts
with a light film of oil. After aligning the holes with a tapered punch
and having another person at the end of the wing move it up and down
slightly the bolts went in with light taps from a mallet. I turned the
bolts that were more difficult while tapping and they went in nicely.
I would only ream as a last result. If you can get the bolts through
the spar before putting wings on fuse you should have no problem.
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> Since I just installed my wings, and had to ream my holes to get the
> bolts to fit, I emailed Van's about it...below is what Gus said:
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Finish Kit (Still)
>
> Paul,
>
> Sorry to hear about your troubles with the spar. I'm quite surprised,
> because my experience has been that these are a very good fit; I
> have helped with three kits as well as mine and none have needed
> any reaming. The strength of the spar is not compromised if the fit
> of the bolts is a bit loose. The concern would rather be that they
> will work in use and gradually elongate the holes. However, this
> depends on how sloppy they are to start with. If you just reamed
> enough to get the bolt in it should be OK.
>
> Gus
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dual Fuel Gauge |
No argument on the stick and clock method, but what if you have a fuel leak?
Your fuel flow will still show that you are burning x-gallons/hour, your
clock will say you have plenty of fuel, but in the mean time your fuel is
spilling out the fuel drain with no othere warning. The EI will show you a
rapid decline in fuel, while your fuel flow and clock won't.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
7>
> This is why I'm merely installing a fuel guage to appease the FAA. My
> favorite fuel guage is a marked stick and a clock. I do plan on upgrading
> to one of Matts fuel flow meters since I think that surpasses even my
> trusty stick in reliability. I am hoping to find a functional analog unit
> for cheap, cheap that will only take up one hole in the panel. I'm sure
the
> EI is a great unit but I'd rather put that money into a fuel flow
computer.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: A RV Christmas Carrol |
A RV Christmas Carrol
T'was the night before Christmas, and all through my home,
I was ready to go flying, and I wasn't alone.
The stockings were hung by the hangers with care,
In hopes that St. Nicholas soon would be there.
The pilots were nestled all snug in their beds,
While visions of dogfights danced in their heads.
And my wife in her robe, and me in my flight suit,
Headed straight for the flightline, for a brisk winter scoot.
When out in the lawn, we could hardly believe,
Was a machine so magnificent and they call them RV's.
I lined up with the runway, we flew like a flash,
But there were no Mooneys or Bonanzas to pass.
The moon reflected all the new fallen snow,
Its amazing how small things look down below.
When what to my wondering eyes should appear,
But a miniature sleigh, and eight tiny reindeer.
With a fat old driver, so lively and quick,
That I knew in a moment it must be St. Nick.
He was slow as a Cessna, as I quickly came,
And heard him whistled, and called them by name;
Now Dasher, now Dancer, now Prancer, now Visein,
On Comet! On Cupid! On Donder and Blitzen!
Lets go faster now ! can't you see!
Were being passed by a couple in a RV.
He couldn't believe, how my machine could fly,
How quick he could be, and cover the sky.
Side by side we flew, and Santa took note,
Just how many toys, this RV could tote:
And then in a twinkle, he called out to me,
"Hey where can I get myself a RV? "
I shouted back, " what size do you need,
By the looks of your belly, a RV6 indeed."
How quick I could deliver, all my toys in the night,
And how do I obtain, transition training for flight.
A call to Van's Aircraft, I said cheerfully,
Then you will have to build, this thing called RV.
His eyes - how the twinkled! The building bug has bit,
On his cell phone he called, and ordered a kit.
I could tell he wanted a ride. As his cheeks filled with droul,
We pulled over and I let him, strap on this lil jewel.
The stump of a pipe he held tight in his teeth,
As we watched the earth grow smaller, quickly beneath.
At blistering speeds, he never felt before,
But due to his size, there would be no RV-4.
I lifted his snowy white beard, so I could see his chin,
He was experiencing his first RV grin.
I must hurry to finish, my deliveries tonight,
And get busy building, and one day take flight!
Christmas will never be the same, I heard him yell,
As he putted off into darkness, that RV was swell !!!
No more need for reindeer, or pixi dust!
The sleigh will stay empty, and turn into rust.
The freezer will be full of vinison, for many a year,
When the elves find out, they will stand and cheer.
I heard him exclaim, as he felt so alive,
Have a Merry Christmas to all, and please DON'T ARCHIVE !!!!
MERRY CHRISTMAS & HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYBODY !
SCOTT REVIERE
TAMPA, FLORIDA
RV6A FINISHING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
No, Don, no reduction noticed on top speed. Wide open, flying carefully and
straight, still 203MPH TAS at 9000 with the 160HP Lycoming. Same as before.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Wing tank plumbing |
I decided a long time ago to use the wing tanks from Van's (by Jon
Johansson) and will order them as soon as the Holiday season is over.
Does anyone on the list have experience with them? I am asking since I'm at
the stage were I like to rivet all the ribs onto the spars but not sure of
size or locations of holes that may be required for plumbing. I would
obviously prefer to do the necessary preparations prior to wing assembly but
it will take several weeks for the tanks to show up.
If anyone have the plans and could share this with me would appreciate it.
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's response on reaming |
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> Since I just installed my wings, and had to ream my holes to get the
> bolts to fit, I emailed Van's about it...below is what Gus said:
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Finish Kit (Still)
>
> Paul,
>
> Sorry to hear about your troubles with the spar. I'm quite surprised,
> because my experience has been that these are a very good fit; I
> have helped with three kits as well as mine and none have needed
> any reaming. The strength of the spar is not compromised if the fit
> of the bolts is a bit loose. The concern would rather be that they
> will work in use and gradually elongate the holes. However, this
> depends on how sloppy they are to start with. If you just reamed
> enough to get the bolt in it should be OK.
>
> Gus
>
Paul when my hangar partner got ready to
put his wings on the bolts were very tight also. We live
close to Phlogiston who drill the spars in the first place
so they came out to our hanger and reamed the holes for him.
As long as there is not slop in the holes it well be ok.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's response on reaming |
If you just reamed
> enough to get the bolt in it should be OK.
What likely makes the insertion of the spar bolts difficult is the fact that
the spars are drilled with no primer on the various parts. Once primed and
assembled, the top and bottom spar straps are four layers of primer farther
apart (at the inboard end where there are spreader bars) then when they were
drilled. I don't know what the best fix would be - probably removing primer
from the ends of the spreader bars and spar bars at those points, then
assembling "wet" with primer.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Preheater plugged in continuously |
> I don't recommend leaving an oil sump heater plugged in continuously unless
> the engine is being run every day. The web site FAQ has a discussion of
>
Bob: I appreciate your response, and I assume responsibility for not
following your clear recommendation. Here's what's up:
we tore down the engine today, and ALL 8 LIFTERS are shot, together with the
cam. Thankfully, the cylindeers all look fine, and the crank mikes out to
new dimensional specs, this despite metal in the bearing metal that makes
them feel like emery paper to the touch. It seems I'm going to get away with
replacing only the usual parts, not the entire inner workings. I will be out
my time, and about 1500 dollars in parts. I saw no evidence of rust anywhere
inside the engine. The cam and/or lifters may have had some rust at start-up
(the engine sat for over a year between overhaul and first flight) but if so
it is long since ground away by the subsequent metal failure. Bob Barrows
said he's never seen all 8 lifters go at once like that.
I would like to clear something up: I was mistaken about the lifters being
odd lots; they were the original parts, as was the cam, polished, inspected,
yellow tagged and returned to service with 2000 hrs on them. It SHOULD have
worked, but for whatever reason, it didn't. What I recall pulling from the
parts bin at random and cleaning up for the overhaul was the hydraulic tapet
bodies, which by the way are still in fine shape. Bob wouldn't stuff
unreconditioned lifters randomly back into an engine... and I hope no one got
the wrong impression from my mistaken recollection.
As for the future pre-heat plans, I can choose between using the pan heater
alone if I have several hours lead time, or coming up with a scheme for
supplemental heat such as the band-type cylinder heaters from Reiff or a home
built ceramic forced air heater with ducting, as someone recently suggested.
The Reiff heater, with low wattage and no thermostat, isn't up to the task of
a quick preheat. My next door neighbor can plug his in and fly with warm oil
in about an hour, but his has that pesky thermostat. Even a remote control
switch won't do much good if I'm at work and the plane is at home. This will
take some thought if I am not going to return to my old habits and the risk
of condensation and rust that go with them.
I am going to send some pix of my lifters to Mike Nellis's web page if anyone
cares to se what the "Heartbreak of Lycomingiasis" looks like.
And if anyone wants to kick around the 160 hp upgrade thread again, with all
the octane ramifications that go with it, I'm kinda mulling my options over
while the engine is in pieces and would welcome your thoughts.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP
Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon Robertson <gordon(at)safemail.com> |
| Subject: | More on RV8 seats |
Looks good. But the price is $275 (front) and $350 (rear) for the
-8. (Why is the rear more expensive???) And that is un-upholstered.
It makes the Jon Johanson seat look good at $358 fully upholstered
doesn't it?
See http://tabshred.com/moe/jonsseat.htm
Now if we can only get that shipping cost taken care of ..... Any
thoughts folks ?
Gordon Robertson
rv8 sb 2nd wing
Have you checked out the seats/cushions from Oregon Aero?
http://www.oregonaero.com
Boyd.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
>
> ....Besides, my seat cushion squishes down so much after a mild
> acro session, that I can hardly see over the glareshield during taxi
back to
> the hangar! There MUST be a better way to design the front seat. I've
> thought of trashing the whole setup and installing a fiberglass racing
> bucket seat. Yet more stuff to ponder.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Burns" <hsierra(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: seat belt cost |
yes I am saying that the factory belts are somewhat unsafe. one of the
major causes of injuries in off field landings in RV's is submarining. The
body tends to slide right out from under the seat belt. this is because of
the seat geometry and the laws of motion, an object in motion tends to stay
in motion. the only solution to this is to use a five point harness.
no you shouldnt have to rip out the seat belts in your saturn and replace
them with five point harnesses. however, if you were to race your saturn
about the only time in a car that you would crash at the speeds that are
encountered in an aircraft crash) you probably would.
oh, by the way, the seat belts in your saturn cost more that the hooker
harnesses do.
R. Burns
RV-4
s/n 3524 N82RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net>
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2000 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: seat belt cost
>
> Are you saying that the factory seatbelts are somehow unsafe? I'm pretty
> sure they have saved a lot of people over the years. I imagine a 5pt
> harness may offer better protection, but how much (if any)? And if that's
> the case where does it stop? We're in far more danger of being in a car
> accident, than in an airplane accident so should I rip out the seatbelts
in
> my Saturn and replace *them* with a 5pt harness? I agree that my ass,
too,
> is worth $300, (maybe even more ) but I don't think they justify the
> added weight or expense.
>
> I imagine wearing a full-face motorcycle helmet would be *more* protective
> too, but I'm not going to do that either. There is a point of diminishing
> returns even in something as important as safety, and everyone needs to
find
> their own balance.
>
> Just my .02, too.
>
> Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
> RV6A, N427EM, 400hrs
> 0320-D1A (160hp)Sensenich 70x78
> ebundy(at)micron.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dual Fuel Gauge |
> Anyone using a single fuel gauge that shows both tanks and uses Van's old
> style senders?
I'm using the Westach. Not real impressed with it. Low cost and I have a
Matronics Fuel Scan (yes Fuel SCAN -- that's what it was called before...
well, you know) so I mostly rely on it as a "leak detector" anyhow. It is a
bit flakey, has a tendency to jump around sometimes, mostly just on the
right tank. But I don't really know if its the sender or the gauge doing
that. One of these days I'll hook an ohmmeter to the sender output and find
out. Then at least I'll know whether going to an expensive EI unit would be
worth the $$.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Installing Bolts in the Wing Spars |
I put my wing spar bolts in the freezer overnight before trying to
install them. I took them out with gloved hands and sprayed them with
some of that anti-corrosion agent and lubricant; I think it's called
LPS-3. Many went in simply by pushing them in by hand; others required
very little force with a hammer. It was surprisingly effective. In
general, I think reaming isn't a great idea.
Best wishes of the season,
Jack Abell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt <meads1(at)theramp.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More on RV8 seats |
Regarding Jon's race car style seats I've always wondered why nobody has tried
an equivelant type of seat which are readily
available in US. Jon's seat is nice and all but the shipping prices are astronomical.
From my very cursory search these seats start
at a few hundred dollars and there are many options. Here's a link showing Recaro's
line:
http://www.nascarplace.com/recaro/catalog.htm
Matt
Looks good. But the price is $275 (front) and $350 (rear) for the
-8. (Why is the rear more expensive???) And that is un-upholstered.
It makes the Jon Johanson seat look good at $358 fully upholstered
doesn't it?
Now if we can only get that shipping cost taken care of ..... Any
thoughts folks ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Wing tank plumbing |
Are,
I'm putting tip tanks in my RV8 as well. I'm using the Pillar Point
Avionics "smart switch" fuel pump controller and a facet 40171 pump placed
on the spar in the bay just behind my Dcuckworth lights. You plumb from the
outboard rib of the main tank to the pump and from the pump to the tip tank.
I've done the plumbing from the tank to the pump so far.
Jon gives you a description of installation. He describes a check valve.
You will need this if you don't use the 40171 pump which has an internal
check valve. You will drill a hole in the bottom of each leading edge rib
to allow the fuel tube to pass. I used 3/8 snap bushings (1/2' hole) to
support and protect the tubing.
If you want more information. E-mail me off list.
Bob
RV8#423 Fuselage kit out of the box and all over the basement.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Are Barstad
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2000 6:57 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wing tank plumbing
I decided a long time ago to use the wing tanks from Van's (by Jon
Johansson) and will order them as soon as the Holiday season is over.
Does anyone on the list have experience with them? I am asking since I'm at
the stage were I like to rivet all the ribs onto the spars but not sure of
size or locations of holes that may be required for plumbing. I would
obviously prefer to do the necessary preparations prior to wing assembly but
it will take several weeks for the tanks to show up.
If anyone have the plans and could share this with me would appreciate it.
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing Bolts in the Wing Spars |
At work we use a small beer :-) cooler with a small clump of dry ice.
This way we keep the objects to be cooled, stored till the last
second...
Gert
"John B. Abell" wrote:
>
>
> I put my wing spar bolts in the freezer overnight before trying to
> install them. I took them out with gloved hands and sprayed them with
> some of that anti-corrosion agent and lubricant; I think it's called
> LPS-3. Many went in simply by pushing them in by hand; others required
> very little force with a hammer. It was surprisingly effective. In
> general, I think reaming isn't a great idea.
>
> Best wishes of the season,
>
> Jack Abell
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: More on RV8 seats |
In a message dated 12/23/2000 9:43:37 AM Central Standard Time,
n8vd(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< On this same note, can we get an idea of who is providing the best seats
for
RV's out there?
Bill VonDane, Co >>
i would say oregonareo does since they do the seat for the f22 fighter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator - Fuel Pump Installation |
Great idea Eustace, I have my Airflow Performance Boost Pump mounted in the
lower left cabin area. I have had to make quite a complicated panel to cover
it. It almost bothers the back of my leg. I won't know for sure until I fly.
For those who haven't seen one, the Airflow boost pump is much, much larger
than the boost pumpVan's sells. It also has more (pre-done) plumbing for
it's check valve. It needs some room but is very easy to mount with the
supplied Adel clamps.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta, BC
> Have been thinking of installing Van's gascolator and the Air Flow
> Performance pump both in the wing root space on the 6A. Did the first
layout
> of it yesterday and it looks like it is quite possible with some minor
> changes to the plumbing. Will do a trial run on this over the holidays
using
> a template of of .032 and see what happens.
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Scrap bin search |
Ralph, mission accomplished or do you still need a piece?......Norman......
> Fellow RVers...
>
> Does anyone out there have a piece of .063 x 2" x 2" in their scrap bins?
>
> I'm making a bellcrank spacer with a bulge in the side to accomodate my
> S-Tec roll servo pushrod connection. It would normally be placed right on
> the edge of the normal spacer.
>
> Ralph Capen
> RV6AQB N822AR
> Richardson, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | a warning for RV-9A fuselage builders |
If any RV-9A fuselage builders are far enough along to be working on the
front deck for the sliding canopy, you don't want to rivet the
1/8"x3/4"x3/4" angle to the center rib as the manual instructs you to do.
Apparently, the angle will have to be modified later to eliminate an
interference with the roll bar brace when finish kits are shipped. Details
can be seen here: http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/corrections.html
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing Bolts in the Wing Spars |
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy Lervold <randy@rv-8.com>
Date: Saturday, December 23, 2000 10:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Installing Bolts in the Wing Spars
>
>> I put my wing spar bolts in the freezer overnight before trying to
>> install them. I took them out with gloved hands and sprayed them with
>> some of that anti-corrosion agent and lubricant; I think it's called
>> LPS-3. Many went in simply by pushing them in by hand; others required
>> very little force with a hammer. It was surprisingly effective. In
>> general, I think reaming isn't a great idea.
>
>
>I did exactly the same thing... worked great. Only needed minor nudging
with
>a rubber mallet. I don't know how I'll do it at the hangar however because
I
>have no freezer there. Maybe I'll put 'em in a small cooler and take 'em
>with me.
>
>Randy Lervold
>RV-8
>
I had considered freezing the bolts in the home freezer, dry ice or even
liquid nitrogen but rejected the idea because of the frost and dew that
would form on the bolt. I would be entrapping water in the drive-fit hole
and that didn't seem to be a good idea. Using a coefficient of thermal
expansion of 20E-6/C, a 3/8 bolt shrinks only 0.0002 when cooled to 20F
freezer temperatures. Greater benefits are had with dry ice or LN but I
didn't like the water aspect.
In my experience (a whopping two RVs worth of spar bolt inserting) the major
problem is not hole diameter but rather hole alignment. The F604 holes are
the right diameter but not quite collinear. The spar holes are also the
proper diameter. As a result, if you can obtain a reamer that is exactly the
hole diameter, and you can get it through one of the F604 holes, it will
remove virtually no metal from the spar and the least amount of metal
possible from the opposite F604 hole.
After trial fitting some spar bolts, I can attest to the fact that the drive
fit is due to hole misalignment. When I removed the bolts that required a
drive fit, (as opposed to the ones that were a firm push fit)the cadmium
plating was scraped off on a portion of the circumference and some bolt
shanks had score marks. This led me to believe that reaming was preferable
to driving the bolts in and thereby scoring the shanks. I also like the
comfort of knowing that I can remove the bolts if I have to, though I sure
hope that the need never arises!
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 25 hours and snowbound
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dual Fuel Gauge |
Dennis,
Once you get to the point of putting fuel in the plane is the time when you
calibrate the gauge. When you first get the manual and read the calibration
process it sounds difficult but is isn't really. The gauge is calrated
every two (2) gallons on each the left and right side. You will need a
fairly accurate two gallon container for this, or the use of a pump that
measures accurately.
As far as the top 3-4 gallons on each side goes you won't be able to rad
that. With the tanks being installed at an angle the resistance float
sender will hit the top of the tank 3-4 gallons before the tank is actually
full. Both sides on mine go up to just about 17 gallons then stop reading.
Its no big deal really because below that they are very accurate. For test
flying and getting fuel burn readings I just filled the tanks to 15 galloons
per side and went from there.
A couple of the nice features it has is an alarm when the tanks get more
than 4 gallons difference. It also alarms when you get down to approx. 1/4
tank per side and again when you get to 2 gallons on a side. You don't have
to install the alarm but I have found it useful. I use a small buzzer that
I got from Radio Shack.
The installation was very straight forward and the installation manual was
easily understood. I highly recommend it. Especially if you also use a
fuel burn meter. Then you will find it is very hard to go wrong. I also
have the MicroVisions VM-1000 installed. With the fuel flow function on
that and the EI fuel gauge I find that I have been correct within 1 gallon
every time fill-up comes around.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
12.9 hours
>From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Dual Fuel Gauge
>Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 11:25:00 -0600
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Friday, December 22, 2000 11:11 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Dual Fuel Gauge
>
>
> >
> >Eric,
> >
> >Electronics International (EI) sells a single gauge that workd off
> >resistance style sending units. It reads left/right/both in LED and
> >digital. It also has some useful alarm features. Vans's and Aircraft
> >Spruce sells it. When ordering it you need to tell them that you want
>the
> >resistance reading model as it is exactly the same gauge as their
> >capacitance unit externally.
> >
> >Mike Robertson
> >Rv-8A N809Rs
> >12.9 Hours
> >
>Mike,
>I am interested in that gauge. I don't trust fuel gauges in general, but
>the extremely non-linear level function of the RV tank adds additional
>complications. I have the SW resistive senders.
>1) How does the programming function deal with the first 2-3 gallons of
>burnoff causing no decline in apparent fuel level?
>2) Does the algorithm handle the two or three inflection points in the fuel
>level Vs gallons remaining curve?
>
>Thanks.
>Dennis Persyk N600DP 25 hours snowed in at C38
>
>
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted French" <ted_french(at)canada.com> |
Listers
I'm not sure the what the original post was on flap relays, but goto
http://www3.telus.net/elfrench/flaps.html to see how I wired mine. Automatic
down to preset positions, and trim correction while the flaps are moving.
Ted french
Prince George BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Scrap bin search |
Got a piece on the way - thanks...
Ralph Capen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2000 11:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Scrap bin search
>
> Ralph, mission accomplished or do you still need a
piece?......Norman......
>
> > Fellow RVers...
> >
> > Does anyone out there have a piece of .063 x 2" x 2" in their scrap
bins?
> >
> > I'm making a bellcrank spacer with a bulge in the side to accomodate my
> > S-Tec roll servo pushrod connection. It would normally be placed right
on
> > the edge of the normal spacer.
> >
> > Ralph Capen
> > RV6AQB N822AR
> > Richardson, TX
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVilla <jodyvilla(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More on RV8 seats |
Ever since I saw Jon's seats I have wanted a pair for my 8 but have been
put off by the shipping charges. I understand that if you buy a container
which will hold eight seats you can ship them for the price of two and
therefore the shipping charge per seat are more reasonable. If there are
three other people on the list that would like to do this I would be
willing to do the leg work.
Jody Villa
RV8 - IO360 Christmas present under the tree
>
>Looks good. But the price is $275 (front) and $350 (rear) for the
>-8. (Why is the rear more expensive???) And that is un-upholstered.
>It makes the Jon Johanson seat look good at $358 fully upholstered
>doesn't it?
>
>See http://tabshred.com/moe/jonsseat.htm
>
>Now if we can only get that shipping cost taken care of ..... Any
>thoughts folks ?
>
>Gordon Robertson
>rv8 sb 2nd wing
>
>
>Have you checked out the seats/cushions from Oregon Aero?
>http://www.oregonaero.com
>
>Boyd.
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
> >
> > ....Besides, my seat cushion squishes down so much after a mild
> > acro session, that I can hardly see over the glareshield during taxi
>back to
> > the hangar! There MUST be a better way to design the front seat. I've
>
> > thought of trashing the whole setup and installing a fiberglass racing
>
> > bucket seat. Yet more stuff to ponder.
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: T'was the night before Christmas - Aviation version |
Dale : I like it. Terry E. Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVilla <jodyvilla(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More on RV8 seats |
Will they actually make the completed seat or just sell you the cushions?
Last time I checked you would have to have someone else do the actual
upholstery job.
Jody Villa
RV8 - IO 360 Under the Christmas tree
>
>In a message dated 12/23/2000 9:43:37 AM Central Standard Time,
>n8vd(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
><< On this same note, can we get an idea of who is providing the best seats
>for
> RV's out there?
>
> Bill VonDane, Co >>
>
>
>i would say oregonareo does since they do the seat for the f22 fighter
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
Sorta RV related...
Where can we get oil for our engines? Really don't wanna spend FBO
scale money to get oil for regular changes.
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
I buy mine from a bulk oil supplier. Check your yellow pages for wholesale
oil/fuel suppliers and give them a call.
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2000 1:17 PM
Subject: RV-List: Oil Purchase
Sorta RV related...
Where can we get oil for our engines? Really don't wanna spend FBO
scale money to get oil for regular changes.
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry <bpote(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: a warning for RV-9A fuselage builders |
Thanks Chris,
Barry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry <bpote(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Have to think ahead for these things |
Merry Christmas everyone!
I am a new builder but moving fast. Perhaps too fast.
I wonder if anyone has a web page dedicated to......
IF YOU ARE ABOUT TO START (FILL IN THE BLANK) (I.E. wing),
YOU SHOULD THINK ABOUT....
1. RUNNING CONDUIT OR SNAP RINGS FOR WIRES.
2. LANDING LIGHTS; IF YOU ARE USING, BUY AND INSTALL THEM NOW.
3. STROBES; ETC.... MOUNTING PLACE FOR POWER PACKS ETC.
4. WHAT TYPE OF FUEL GAUGE AND SENDERS YOU WILL BE NEEDING.
ETC. ETC This was one example. I think you get my drift.
I know that you can get some of it from fully reading Van's
manual, but not all of it. But you don't get the manual until you
get the kit.
Anyone have a site page for this?
Barry Pote RV9a WING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Purchase |
"Ralph E. Capen" wrote:
>
>
> Sorta RV related...
>
> Where can we get oil for our engines? Really don't wanna spend FBO
> scale money to get oil for regular changes.
>
> Ralph Capen
>
I get mine (Shell 100) by the case from a local lubricant distributor.
Charlie
flying -4
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil Purchase |
Oil is cheaper from the mail-order supply houses but watch the shipping
costs, it can negate the savings very quickly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Have to think ahead for these things |
> IF YOU ARE ABOUT TO START (FILL IN THE BLANK) (I.E. wing),
> YOU SHOULD THINK ABOUT....
http://www.edt.com/homewing/justice
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Davenport" <ddav120(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Wheel Pants for Sale |
I have an unused pair of the original one-piece wheel pants for my RV-6
that I'm not going to use. They have never been drilled or cut, and I'll
include the mounts for the wheel pants in the offer. My price for all is
$50.00. This makes it an cheap solution for anyone needing to replace a
beat up set of pants. Please rely off list.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Purchase |
Please provide more info on the mail order supply houses...totally clueless
as to who they are...
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
----- Original Message -----
From: <TD2016(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2000 4:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Purchase
>
> Oil is cheaper from the mail-order supply houses but watch the shipping
> costs, it can negate the savings very quickly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Purchase |
Normally the way to find things on the web are to do a search. A quick
one turned up oil-store.com.
Use Dogpile for all your searches. Cuts out a lot of junk.
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Terra Avionics repair |
Does anyone have advice on where to get a Terra 760D com repaired?
(preferably in only one trip)
(I know, don't remind me, why Terra? Is the same as I used in my glider for
years without an issue, and 3 years ago when I avioniced the RV, the idea of
switching radios in case of a problem sounded good. Little did I know how
much switching I would do.) The glider radio works very well in the RV. The
bad Terra receives well, but transmits like it is off frequency and
improperly modulated, both in the RV and the glider. So it is not the
installation. This will be its third trip back, only two trips were for the
same thing, not this problem, but finally fixed.
Glad I added the second radio last year.
Bruce Patton
RV-6A 596S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Have to think ahead for these things |
Barry:
By an amazing coincidence, I'm working on something related to your
question right now for my RV-6.
I'm putting all (well, most) of the kits and options onto a spread sheet,
with prices, to help me think ahead about what options I want and when I
want to order them (and when I need the money). I wasn't going to put in
on my web site until it's done, but your post inspired me to put it up
now.
It's at
http://vansairforce.org/projects/Tedd_McHenry/options.html
Tedd McHenry
Van's Air Force
Western Canada Wing
tedd(at)vansairforce.org
http://www.vansairforce.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: seat belt cost |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2000 12:57 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: seat belt cost
> Back the truck up here a minute. I'm putting Van's -- five point -- belts
> in my 8A. This is an option after all, crotch strap and all...
>
> No submarining for me.
>
>
> Better check with Vans. Last that I knew, thear 5th point belt
did not work with there own belts. I already got burned on this once.Terry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bert murillo <bertrv6(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Contact Bob Nuckolls |
Hi:
Hope some one can help; I have sent my check to
Bob Nuckolls, for his book. This was almost a month
ago.
I have tried to fax him, and three e-mails, no
reply at all.
I use the e-mail on the Yeller pages, and I have
checked, thru the list, on old messages to se that
is correct.
I even tried the phone listed, but no luck
any one has a suggestion? I was able to get
thru his web page, and checked the e-mail
I could have bought the book from Spruce...
now I am stuck..
Thanks and Happy Holidays to all'''''
Bert
rv6a
woorking on wing fairings..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew Larkin <aj_larkin(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 45 Msgs - 12/14/00 |
Can anyone who has used Van's bracket for throttle &
mixture controls enlighten me on how to attach the
cables to the bracket? I have an O-320.
Thanks,
Andrew Larkin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | how to flush oil cooler |
For any who haven't heard the sequel to the story of my engine making metal,
I'll cut to the chase... I have 8 totally destroyed lifters and a bad cam,
along with the expected bearing contamination. Fortunately, no other
apparent damage. Now that I am finished flushing all the metal particles out
of the guts of my Lycoming, I am looking at the oil cooler and wondering if
it can be flushed out or if it should be trashed. Is there a way to do this
with reasonable chance of success, or should I call Van's and have my credit
card ready? I'm pondering the use of gasoline, GUNK engine cleaner, and / or
water-detergent mixtures as possible cleaning agents, along with compressed
air to dry it all out when done.
I would also welcome comments on aftermarket oil filters if there are any
set-ups that allow the high-pressure oil screen to remain in use. I don't
think I want a filter system that would ever operate in bypass mode and not
have the screen as a backup. Can a filter be plumbed in series with the
cooler? Seems like that would accomplish what I'm after.
Thanks.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP
Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Engine Storage Protection |
Has anyone used LPS# as an external protection for an engine in storage? If
so, what sovent will cut it later to prepare for painting? Also, could a
person spray some of it inside each cylinder to protect the walls and then
wash it out and pre-oil before starting?
Just curious.
Thanks,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage baggage compartment & seats)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Have to think ahead for these things |
Try reading this:
Frank Justice's Supplemental Instructions
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | RV8.. forward bagage compartment |
Hi ya'll
A very merry christmas to you all.
For those who have made the forward bagage bin straight without the deep
bit. Are you happy with the results, would you do it again ??
being 6'6", I kinda like the idea to be able to stretch my legs next to
the rudder pedals.
Has anybody gotten rid of the hinge for the cooling ramp. Seems to me
that once the ramp is in and prosealed around the edges it isn't going
to move. It is riveted in 2 locations by the fire wall.
why the hinge?
I thought I could put a piece of angle in place of the hinge.
This would force the end of the cooling ramp (exhaust ramp ??) to
conform to the bottom of the fuse. kinda smoother transition on the
belly.
Any input, oh ye wise men who have gone before me ??
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fly with the vinyl on? |
But...I got my kit before pre-punching????
hal
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Burns <hsierra(at)flash.net>
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2000 10:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: fly with the vinyl on?
>
> vans only uses the vinyl coating for one reason. to keep the CNC head from
> damaging the alclad during prepunching.
>
> R. Burns
> RV-4
> S/N 3524 N82RB
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Don Winters" <dtw_rv6(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2000 9:20 PM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: fly with the vinyl on?
>
>
> >
> > Please remove the vinyl from your sheet metal before riveting the pieces
> > together. This is definitely a poor alternative to the many corrosion
> > prevention methods. This coating is put on the sheets to protect the
> > material from shipping and handling damage. You can actually order the
> same
> > material from the mill with no coating if you want -- it's even a little
> > cheaper that way.
> >
> > The vinyl will give you almost no protection from corrosion, and I would
> > wager that it will actually promote the collection of moisture in the
long
> > run.
> >
> > Don Winters
> > Wings
> > http://www.geocities.com/dtw_rv6
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of lucky macy
> > Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2000 6:38 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: fly with the vinyl on?
> >
> >
> >
> > OK, I see a trend of a reading comprehension problem going on here. The
> > question had nothing to do with a physical problem pulling the vinyl
off,
> > being lazy, etc. It's actually a technical question as to whether or
not
> > the vinyl would help prevent corrosion on the internal skins if left on
> when
> > the builder would otherwise not resort to priming the inside of the
skins.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: how to flush oil cooler |
In a message dated 12/23/00 6:41:48 PM Pacific Standard Time,
SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< Now that I am finished flushing all the metal particles out
of the guts of my Lycoming, I am looking at the oil cooler and wondering if
it can be flushed out or if it should be trashed. Is there a way to do this
with reasonable chance of success, or should I call Van's and have my
credit
card ready? I'm pondering the use of gasoline, GUNK engine cleaner, and /
or
water-detergent mixtures as possible cleaning agents, along with compressed
air to dry it all out when done. >>
There is a company in southern CA called Pacific Oil Cooler Service listed in
the Yeller Pages that specializes in cleaning and flow checking these.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fly with the vinyl on? |
But...I got my kit before pre-punching????
hal
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Burns <hsierra(at)flash.net>
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2000 10:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: fly with the vinyl on?
>
> vans only uses the vinyl coating for one reason. to keep the CNC head from
> damaging the alclad during prepunching.
>
> R. Burns
> RV-4
> S/N 3524 N82RB
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Don Winters" <dtw_rv6(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2000 9:20 PM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: fly with the vinyl on?
>
>
> >
> > Please remove the vinyl from your sheet metal before riveting the pieces
> > together. This is definitely a poor alternative to the many corrosion
> > prevention methods. This coating is put on the sheets to protect the
> > material from shipping and handling damage. You can actually order the
> same
> > material from the mill with no coating if you want -- it's even a little
> > cheaper that way.
> >
> > The vinyl will give you almost no protection from corrosion, and I would
> > wager that it will actually promote the collection of moisture in the
long
> > run.
> >
> > Don Winters
> > Wings
> > http://www.geocities.com/dtw_rv6
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of lucky macy
> > Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2000 6:38 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: fly with the vinyl on?
> >
> >
> >
> > OK, I see a trend of a reading comprehension problem going on here. The
> > question had nothing to do with a physical problem pulling the vinyl
off,
> > being lazy, etc. It's actually a technical question as to whether or
not
> > the vinyl would help prevent corrosion on the internal skins if left on
> when
> > the builder would otherwise not resort to priming the inside of the
skins.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: Van's response on reaming |
I have found the wing bolts go in good if you take several long aircraft
bolts, cut the threads off,grind and polish the ends to a bullet
shape,oil them,now tap them gently into place while someone gently rocks
the wings up and down.Do not ,repeat ,do not drill or ream .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Have to think ahead for these things |
barry wrote:
> I am a new builder but moving fast. Perhaps too fast.
>
> I wonder if anyone has a web page dedicated to......
>
> IF YOU ARE ABOUT TO START (FILL IN THE BLANK) (I.E. wing),
> YOU SHOULD THINK ABOUT....
>
> 1. RUNNING CONDUIT OR SNAP RINGS FOR WIRES.
> 2. LANDING LIGHTS; IF YOU ARE USING, BUY AND INSTALL THEM NOW.
> 3. STROBES; ETC.... MOUNTING PLACE FOR POWER PACKS ETC.
> 4. WHAT TYPE OF FUEL GAUGE AND SENDERS YOU WILL BE NEEDING.
>
> ETC. ETC This was one example. I think you get my drift.
Try http://fly.to/bunnysguide
Not exactly in the format you want, but the information is there.
Frank
(Self-appointed maintainer of the Bunny's Guide to RV Building)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: seat belt cost |
Tedd McHenry wrote:
> > We're in far more danger of being in a car
> > accident, than in an airplane accident
>
> Statistically, light aircraft flying is among the most dangerous of all
> non-professional activities, ranking right up there with mountain
> climbing. It's far more dangerous than (amateur) auto racing.
I don't think either of the above claims are true.
I analysed the relative risks of driving versus flying for a trip of
210km by road, about 1 hour by air (Cessna 172). The risk of injury
accident was *lower* for flying, but the risk of dying was higher.
Overall, I guess the risk of flying is about the same as driving on a
rainy night.
I can dig out the numbers if anyone is interested.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8.. forward bagage compartment |
gert wrote:
> Has anybody gotten rid of the hinge for the cooling ramp. Seems to me
> that once the ramp is in and prosealed around the edges it isn't going
> to move. It is riveted in 2 locations by the fire wall.
> why the hinge?
>
> I thought I could put a piece of angle in place of the hinge.
> This would force the end of the cooling ramp (exhaust ramp ??) to
> conform to the bottom of the fuse. kinda smoother transition on the
> belly.
I just did this a week or so ago. I couldn't see the point of the hinge and
decided on the simpler installation of a piece of .032 angle. The angle is
riveted to the forward face of the F-802K and to the bottom of the F-867.
No muss, no fuss, no bother. I did have to use pop rivets along the F-867,
as the angle to which the F-867 had to be raised for bucking access (the
thickness of my wife's tiny forearm) didn't permit my flush rivet set to sit
sufficiently flat. Oh, well. I figure that no one will ever see those
rivets.
As I recall, the hinge was originally designed to permit builders to
experiment with an adjustable cooling ramp if desired. I don't know of
anyone who's done it, though.
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 N118KB (reserved)
interior details
www.egroups.com/files/bostonrvbuilders
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More on RV8 seats |
> On this same note, can we get an idea of who is providing the best seats
for
> RV's out there?
>
I ordered my seats from George & Becki Orndorff - I figured they should know
how to fit seats to an RV. They add a 1" layer of temperfoam to the bottom
cushions (optional) for a seat that is supposed to be much lighter than the
Oregon Aero seats. I'll post pictures when I get them (due at the end of
January)
Jerry Carter
8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Reiff" <Reiff(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Terra Avionics repair |
>Does anyone have advice on where to get a Terra 760D com repaired?
>(preferably in only one trip)
>
>(I know, don't remind me, why Terra?)
Does this radio have a bad reputation? I've got a new one still in the box,
should I be thinking about getting something else?
Bob Reiff
Reiff Preheat Systems
www.execpc.com/reiff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | reaming spar joint attach holes |
I'm not a Metallurgist, but doesn't putting our steel bolts through our
aluminum spars cause corrosion via electrolysis (dis-similar metals in
contact)???
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Anderson <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
> > finishing up the fuselage attach bulkhead and thought I would put the
> spars
> > in it and bolt everything up for a fit check and a picture, I know the
> > close tolerance bolts won't go through because of primer and slight
> > misalignments, do you'all think it is permissible to hand ream using a
> .374
> > as long as I clamp the laminations on either side of the hole I'm
reaming?
> > same with the .249 and 3/16 holes?
> >
> > Scott,
>
> I found that if I used the rivet gun on a low psi setting to push the
> bolts through the holes it worked well. At least in my case, the rapid
but
> gentle rapping on the head would push the bolts through when a heavy
hammer
> would not. You might give it a try before reaming the holes, you can
always
> ream.
>
> Ed Anderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: reaming spar joint attach holes |
when i mounted my wings to mount the landing gear, i used an air inpact
driver, it taps and turns all in 1 shot. the went in snug, and came back out
the same way,.
no problem.
scott
tampa
rv6a coweling
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
FWIW, I work for a large American corporation and our life/disability
insurance covers just about everything - even parachuting and diving.
However, (this is the weird part) It says clearly that I am only covered
while flying if I am not piloting the aircraft and the aircraft must be
commercial. In other words (I checked this), I am not covered at all if I'm
involved in an accident while flying myself.
Diving and parachuting but not piloting a certified Cessna??? Go figure!
Maybe the stats do prove that it is statistically more dangerous than other
hobbies.]
I still refuse to believe it is 'dangerous' to fly, BUT it may a high risk
to those with bad judgement and decision making skills (flying into adverse
weather, not checking weather, turn around after engine failure on
departure, low level aerobatic show-off, under the influence, not visually
checking fuel qty., inadequate training etc.).
I know of pilots (traffic reporters) that have flown light aircraft over
25,000 hr's and remain safe.
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Frank and
Dorothy
Sent: December 24, 2000 2:20 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: seat belt cost
Tedd McHenry wrote:
> > We're in far more danger of being in a car
> > accident, than in an airplane accident
>
> Statistically, light aircraft flying is among the most dangerous of all
> non-professional activities, ranking right up there with mountain
> climbing. It's far more dangerous than (amateur) auto racing.
I don't think either of the above claims are true.
I analysed the relative risks of driving versus flying for a trip of
210km by road, about 1 hour by air (Cessna 172). The risk of injury
accident was *lower* for flying, but the risk of dying was higher.
Overall, I guess the risk of flying is about the same as driving on a
rainy night.
I can dig out the numbers if anyone is interested.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Purchase |
Listers,
At the risk of being blatantly commercial, if anyone is having trouble
finding Aviation oil in cases, I sell it. E-mail me directly or go to my
website www.petroblend.com and click on our order online button. You can
also call us at 800-383-5823. I keep our oil prices pretty low. My
Warehouse Manager complains all the time we don't make any money on aircraft
oil. The problem with online oil purchase is, the UPS charge gets pretty
high because oil is pretty heavy.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com\dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fly with the vinyl on? |
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
writes:
>
> vans only uses the vinyl coating for one reason. to keep the CNC
> head from damaging the alclad during prepunching.
>
> R. Burns
> RV-4
> S/N 3524 N82RB
I wonder what the only reason was before he got the CNC machine.
Cecil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AP-IA Bookstore <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Purchase |
I buy my Phillips 66 Aero-oil at a local Phillips gas station for about $20 for
a case of 12 quarts.
They don't always have it in stock, but ordering it only takes a day or two. I'm
pretty sure any Phillips gas station can do the same.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: seat belt cost |
> > > We're in far more danger of being in a car
> > > accident, than in an airplane accident
> >
> > Statistically, light aircraft flying is among the most dangerous of all
> > non-professional activities, ranking right up there with mountain
> > climbing. It's far more dangerous than (amateur) auto racing.
>
> I don't think either of the above claims are true.
>
> I analysed the relative risks of driving versus flying for a trip of
> 210km by road, about 1 hour by air (Cessna 172). The risk of injury
> accident was *lower* for flying, but the risk of dying was higher.
> Overall, I guess the risk of flying is about the same as driving on a
> rainy night.
Actually, I think every one of these statements can be true depending on the
way you look at it. My understanding is that private flying is more
hazardous than driving per hour involved. My original comment of being far
more likely to have a car accident is based on the number of hours I spend
driving vs the number of hours I spend flying. This is the way I was
looking at it when I made the comment that if I feel comfortable with
standard seat belts in my car, I don't feel a need to put Hooker harnesses
in my RV. There was also a comment made about RV's impacting at speeds in
excess of normal driving, which I feel are also false. I don't see any
reason why an RV should impact at greater than 55-60mph. I drive a 65mph
two-lane highway everyday, and a head-on impact at 130mph+ would exceed
anything that an RV should ever see.
It's all about risk vs reward. I don't feel racing harnesses justify
themselves in an RV or a passenger vehicle. I skydive and snowboard, and I
utilize risk management to the best of my abilities to attempt to stay alive
to enjoy all of the things that make my life worth living. Some people run
with the bulls, others are afraid to leave the house, and most people would
never fly in a homebuilt. To each their own.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A, N427EM, 400hrs
0320-D1A (160hp)Sensenich 70x78
ebundy(at)micron.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More on RV8 seats |
I looked into (Sparco, Momo, Recaro), but I always ran into
>the same problems; Either it wouldn't fit--- the seat was too heavy
>--- very hard to find a seat under 15lbs), ---it was too expensize ($1000
>or more)
>Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
I also checked into these seats, and came up with the same results: too
heavy, too costly, and just how to mount the thing in the airplane?
The seat back in the -8 isn't all that bad really, unless you're a really
wide dude and need more width for back support. The whole issue is with the
seat bottom..in that there simply ISN'T one in the kit. That big hole
behind the 804 needs to be filled with something rigid..like a true seat
pan, THEN a thinner seat cushion could be used. I had a family friend make
the cushions for my airplane. He did a great job, and saved me a lot of
money, but it was more work than he had imagined. Getting that oddly shaped
hunk of dense upholstery foam stuffed into the the fabric for that front
seat bottom just about drove him nuts.
I think it would be much simpler, lighter weight, and easier on the wallet
to fashion some sort of seat pan that bolts to the floor ribs as well as a
couple of brackets on the 804. The pan would be angled such that the actual
cushion could be a very simple, flat piece of foam maybe three or four
inches thick. Comfor foam would be a sweet setup here for sure. The pan
could be made from some .032 sheet, using various shapes and sizes of angle
for stiffness. It must be STRONG...especially when the G induced bubba
factor comes to play!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
160 hrs.
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: seat belt cost |
In a message dated 12/24/2000 9:01:42 AM Central Standard Time,
abarstad(at)bconnex.net writes:
<< FWIW, I work for a large American corporation and our life/disability
insurance covers just about everything - even parachuting and diving.
However, (this is the weird part) It says clearly that I am only covered
while flying if I am not piloting the aircraft and the aircraft must be
commercial. In other words (I checked this), I am not covered at all if I'm
involved in an accident while flying myself.
Diving and parachuting but not piloting a certified Cessna??? Go figure!
Maybe the stats do prove that it is statistically more dangerous than other
hobbies.] >>
As a owner of an insurance agency and a pilot. Heres my 2 cents on that. If
you look further you should see that motorsports like racing anything are
included with flying. It just seems that on the older policies any thing
with an engine ment that you would not be covered. However as your policy is
a group policy its a little different animal. Normally parachuting and
diving are not covered either, but if someone who was interested in those was
involved in the negaitons for your group policy the insurance company will
add them in a second. Same with flying if someone would have brought it up.
Once someone has more then a 100 hours and their license they should never
have to pay extra for life insurance unless they fly a plane that makes the
extra charge reasonable, like an aerobatic pilot, crop duster etc. SOmething
where there is real risk involved in the flying.
Chris Wilcox, President
CGW Insurance/Investments, Inc.
927 Alpine Court
Oshkosh, WI 54901
(920) 235-1082 Bus.
(920) 235-1083 Fax
www.cgwi.com
cwilcox(at)cgwi.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: More on RV8 seats |
> supposed to be much lighter than the
> Oregon Aero seats. >
Oreegon Aero seats are not heavy.
No one on this list has ever listed the weights of the various seat
manufactors. One lister about a year ago slammed Oregon Aero for being heavy
but he gave no data. I have them and I'll tell you that they are not heavy.
It would be possible to make a lighter seat by making it thinner and out of
cheap low density foam but then you get a flammable material where it
matters most, right under the assets.
You get what you pay for. The US Air Force thinks Oregon Aero makes the best
seats.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8.. forward bagage compartment |
>
>
>Hi ya'll
>
>A very merry christmas to you all.
>
>For those who have made the forward bagage bin straight without the deep
>bit. Are you happy with the results, would you do it again ??
Yes. I'm pleased with the results. My original reason for doing this was
for the leg stretching scenario you mention. However, I've found that my
size 11's just won't fit around the outside of the pedals anyway...the
baggage hold floor is just too close to the top of the pedals. I'm afraid
that once I do manage to get my feet over there, a shoelace or something
will snag on the pedals, making it difficult to get my feet back where they
belong. Now, wouldn't THAT be interesting?
>
>
>Has anybody gotten rid of the hinge for the cooling ramp. Seems to me
>that once the ramp is in and prosealed around the edges it isn't going
>to move. It is riveted in 2 locations by the fire wall.
>why the hinge?
Best guess is that it's hinged so you can pull the pin, and drop the ramp
down to clean out oil drips and various gunk. Also, I'm planning on adding
some insulation here to help muffle exhaust noise. Will probably clean the
underside of the floor skin really well, then stick some of the adhesive
backed foam type insulation on it. Anything to reduce the "Lycosaur roar"
is worth the effort.
>
>I thought I could put a piece of angle in place of the hinge.
>This would force the end of the cooling ramp (exhaust ramp ??) to
>conform to the bottom of the fuse. kinda smoother transition on the
>belly.
Not a bad idea. I would still attach the ramp via flush platenuts so you can
drop it down to clean, unless you plan to proseal around the whole thing.
Do what works best for you.
>
>Any input, oh ye wise men who have gone before me ??
You give me ENTIRELY too much credit. ;)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
160 hrs.
STILL down for annual. Will the holidays ever end???
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: how to flush oil cooler |
Bill,
I have used a solvent tank before with fair amounts of success. Just place
the pressurized solvent nozzle to the inlet side of the coller and let flow
for about 10-15 minutes. I then backflush it for about the same amount of
time. You can also send it to an oil cooler repair station for a flush and
inspection. Pacific Oil Coolers is one such place. Sorry, I don't have
their phone number handy as I am not at home at the time but you can find
their ads in any Trade-A-Plane. Either way their is no reason to buy a new
one.
For remote oil filters their are two companies that I know about and have
seen their products. Air Wolf and Aviation Development Corp (ADC). Both of
them are quite good. They completely replace the oil screen housing with a
new one. ADC also offeres a remote oil wafer system that is very good. It
uses a re-usable 3 micron oil wafer and has a chip detector. It is
extremely good at getting the junk out and cleans up in about 10-15 minutes.
But it is a bit on the pricey side at about $650.00. I don't know the
cost of the remote spin-on filters but I have been told by a friend that has
the Air Wolf one that he is very satisfied with it.
Hope you get your engine together soon and get back in the air.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
12.9 hours
>From: SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: how to flush oil cooler
>Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 21:37:05 EST
>
>
>For any who haven't heard the sequel to the story of my engine making
>metal,
>I'll cut to the chase... I have 8 totally destroyed lifters and a bad cam,
>along with the expected bearing contamination. Fortunately, no other
>apparent damage. Now that I am finished flushing all the metal particles
>out
>of the guts of my Lycoming, I am looking at the oil cooler and wondering if
>it can be flushed out or if it should be trashed. Is there a way to do
>this
>with reasonable chance of success, or should I call Van's and have my
>credit
>card ready? I'm pondering the use of gasoline, GUNK engine cleaner, and /
>or
>water-detergent mixtures as possible cleaning agents, along with compressed
>air to dry it all out when done.
>
>I would also welcome comments on aftermarket oil filters if there are any
>set-ups that allow the high-pressure oil screen to remain in use. I don't
>think I want a filter system that would ever operate in bypass mode and not
>have the screen as a backup. Can a filter be plumbed in series with the
>cooler? Seems like that would accomplish what I'm after.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Bill Boyd
>RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP
>Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA
>Clifton Forge, VA
>
>
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | earl fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Purchase |
I suggest you compare UPS with FedEx ground. There is substantial
savings with FedEx ground and shipment is usually less than three days
although they quote five days.
Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> At the risk of being blatantly commercial, if anyone is having trouble
> finding Aviation oil in cases, I sell it. E-mail me directly or go to my
> website www.petroblend.com and click on our order online button. You can
> also call us at 800-383-5823. I keep our oil prices pretty low. My
> Warehouse Manager complains all the time we don't make any money on aircraft
> oil. The problem with online oil purchase is, the UPS charge gets pretty
> high because oil is pretty heavy.
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
> dougr(at)petroblend.com
> www.petroblend.com\dougr
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Purchase |
http://www.aeroshell.com
In some parts of the country Walmart carries aviation oil. My friend in
Anchorage confermed this.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "elizabeth lincoln" <curby1(at)shianet.org> |
| Subject: | Re: how to flush oil cooler |
I`m not sure about aviation but in automotive you always install a new oil
cooler, it is almost imposible to get all of the metal out of the cooler.
Andy
----- Original Message -----
From: <SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2000 9:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: how to flush oil cooler
>
> For any who haven't heard the sequel to the story of my engine making
metal,
> I'll cut to the chase... I have 8 totally destroyed lifters and a bad cam,
> along with the expected bearing contamination. Fortunately, no other
> apparent damage. Now that I am finished flushing all the metal particles
out
> of the guts of my Lycoming, I am looking at the oil cooler and wondering
if
> it can be flushed out or if it should be trashed. Is there a way to do
this
> with reasonable chance of success, or should I call Van's and have my
credit
> card ready? I'm pondering the use of gasoline, GUNK engine cleaner, and /
or
> water-detergent mixtures as possible cleaning agents, along with
compressed
> air to dry it all out when done.
>
> I would also welcome comments on aftermarket oil filters if there are any
> set-ups that allow the high-pressure oil screen to remain in use. I don't
> think I want a filter system that would ever operate in bypass mode and
not
> have the screen as a backup. Can a filter be plumbed in series with the
> cooler? Seems like that would accomplish what I'm after.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bill Boyd
> RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP
> Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA
> Clifton Forge, VA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
> I would like to clear something up: I was mistaken about the LIFTERS being
> odd lots; they were the original parts, as was the cam, polished, inspected,
> yellow tagged and returned to service with 2000 hrs on them. It SHOULD have
> worked, but for whatever reason, it didn't. What I recall pulling from the
> parts bin at random and cleaning up for the overhaul was the HYDRAULIC TAPET
> BODIES, which by the way are still in fine shape.
Would someone care to explain the difference between a hydraulic tappet body and
a lifter. Seems like the same thing spelled differently.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Burns" <hsierra(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fly with the vinyl on? |
that info came from van in an article in th RVator a couple of year ago when
they got, i believe, a truematic 2000.
it doesnt make sense to buy two differnt lots of material. some of my parts
were vinyl covered, but unpunched, but the RV-6 parts at that time were
punched. so he was just buying vinyl stock.
R. burns
RV-4 s/n 3524 N82RB
----- Original Message -----
From: <cecilth(at)juno.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 24, 2000 10:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: fly with the vinyl on?
>
>
> writes:
> >
> > vans only uses the vinyl coating for one reason. to keep the CNC
> > head from damaging the alclad during prepunching.
> >
> > R. Burns
> > RV-4
> > S/N 3524 N82RB
>
> I wonder what the only reason was before he got the CNC machine.
> Cecil
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Ervin <bjervin(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dual Fuel Gauge |
Hi all
I'll expand on Eric's question, Does anyone sell a dual fuel gauge for
less than $300.00. EI's gauge is nice but $345 and $435 a copy is a bit
steep.
happy holidays
Bill in Spokane
Mike Robertson wrote:
>
>
> Eric,
>
> Electronics International (EI) sells a single gauge that workd off
> resistance style sending units. It reads left/right/both in LED and
> digital. It also has some useful alarm features. Vans's and Aircraft
> Spruce sells it. When ordering it you need to tell them that you want the
> resistance reading model as it is exactly the same gauge as their
> capacitance unit externally.
>
> Mike Robertson
> Rv-8A N809Rs
> 12.9 Hours
>
> >
> >Anyone using a single fuel gauge that shows both tanks and uses Van's old
> >style senders?
> >
> >Thanks in advance
> >
> >Eric Henson
> >Panel Toys... Dear Santa........
> >
> >
>
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Purchase |
I read Andy's comment on buyimg Phillips oil and had these
thoughts.Phillips has been making AV oil since Wiley Post Flew around
the world.I am not so sure about these super snythetic oils.In northern
illinois (poplar Grove)20w50 Philips with a can of AvBlend works good.I
do not add between changes(25 hours)now over 400 hours on reconditioned
cylinders
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: how to flush oil cooler |
Bill,
I have rebuilt several engines on my Seneca & 421 - The mechanics on the
field all use the same process Lacquer Thinner - Fill it let it set for a few
hours and flush it out, repeaat the process for a few days, or untill you get
clear thinner running out of the cooler. Then blow it out with the air gun.
That what we do and have not had a problem
BSivori
N15035 Seneca
N929 AK Cessna 421C
N929RV - Still Building
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: More on RV8 seats |
Norman Hunger wrote:
> It would be possible to make a lighter seat by making it thinner and out of
> cheap low density foam but then you get a flammable material where it
> matters most, right under the assets.
I think flammability of seat material isn't very important. Maybe
someone tell me where my thinking is astray?
1. No-one is ever going to smoke in my plane. How exactly is the seat
going to catch fire?
2. There really isn't much material exposed to air... your body is
covering it.
3. Given the above, long before the seat I am sitting on is on fire,
there will be a whole lot of other, more important, problems.
What have I missed?
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Palm Pilot GPS |
What are you going to run on your Ipaq??
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)ticnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Terra Avionics repair |
Terra was bought by Trimble and they have treated me well regarding
repairs on warranty. For warranty and repair, call 800-487-4662.
Trimble Navigation Limited, 2105 Donley Drive, Austin, TX 78758. Label
items sent for repair, "ATTN: Repair". I suggest you call the 800
number to verify address and to get time frame for repair. Their repair
time was very short for me...and they handled it on warranty with no
question. Very nice people.
I like my Terra com and transponder. I like the built-in intercom in
the radio...
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
-6A flying past 315 hours
BPattonsoa(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone have advice on where to get a Terra 760D com repaired?
> (preferably in only one trip)
>
> (I know, don't remind me, why Terra? Is the same as I used in my glider for
> years without an issue, and 3 years ago when I avioniced the RV, the idea of
> switching radios in case of a problem sounded good. Little did I know how
> much switching I would do.) The glider radio works very well in the RV. The
> bad Terra receives well, but transmits like it is off frequency and
> improperly modulated, both in the RV and the glider. So it is not the
> installation. This will be its third trip back, only two trips were for the
> same thing, not this problem, but finally fixed.
>
> Glad I added the second radio last year.
>
> Bruce Patton
> RV-6A 596S
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: reaming spar joint attach holes |
In a message dated 12/24/00 5:51:40 AM Pacific Standard Time,
crabaut(at)coalinga.com writes:
<< I'm not a Metallurgist, but doesn't putting our steel bolts through our
aluminum spars cause corrosion via electrolysis (dissimilar metals in
contact)? >>
That's one of the purposes of the cadmium plating on AN bolts (by contrast,
hardware store bolts have an inferior zinc plating); to serve as a barrier
between the two. Also cadmium, being relatively soft, actually "lubricates"
the interface. Cadmium is toxic to the body and one should wash hands well
prior to eating.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | A $2.25 canopy escape tool |
There has been a lot of posts on this list about egress tools for breaking
away the canopy in the event of flipping over during an off field landing.
A few people have been talking about and promoting special $100 knives and
axes.
Here's mine for almost free that will work in all 6s and 9s.
The right side control stick has always been made to be easily removed for
times when you might not want to let your passenger have access to the
controls. I made this stick even easier to remove and then made it into
what I think would be a very effective canopy bustin escape tool. (I'll let
someone else do the actual testing - thank you)
I removed the stick and cut sharp teeth, about 3/8" deep, along the bottom
edge of the tube.
Then, to give it more inertia I poured molten lead into the lower 4-5
inches of the tube. The lead came from used tire balancing weights that any
tire shop will be glad to give you for free. This procedure is just like us
early builders used to use for pouring the elevator balance.
Finally, to make the stick easy to remove, I replaced the AN-3 bolt that
holds it in its socket with a 3/8" pip pin that I found at a local hardware
store. Thats my $2.25. (I'm sure you can also find one at Aircraft Spruce
for a little bit more.)
The advantages of this tool over a fancy "mil-spec" escape ax?
1] It's almost free to make
2] It adds less than 1 lb of weight to your plane (or nothing at all if you
don't use the lead filler)
3] It comes with its own built-in, easy to reach storage place
4] It also comes with a nice form fit hand grip
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 45 Msgs - 12/14/00 |
If you look at the bracket you will see two arms with holes in them that
protrude down. Just run you cables thru these holes.
John Danielson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Canopy removal after mounting the VS |
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
12/24/2000 05:52:47 PM
Is anyone having problems removing their canopy after they have mounted the
empennage and the associated fairing?
I mounted my canopy with quick release pull pins and now that I have the
vertical stabilizer mounted with the fairing attached I can no longer
remove my canopy.
What's up with this? This sounds like a definite design flaw to me.
Especially if one needs to jettison the canopy while in flight without
removing the VS in the process.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( cowling )
O360 A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fly with the vinyl on? |
Someone else asked if we were sure it is vinyl. I was in Home Depot today
and noted that the sheet plastic they sell is polyethylene.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: fly with the vinyl on? |
I also wondered about this matter since I read the first post about it.
I have worked with all sorts of protective film laminates and they are
always polyethylene. It is cheaper and has the right cling. You can tell
by the smell. Vinyl smeels like a new shower curtain. Polyethylene
smells like trash bags.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy removal after mounting the VS |
--- Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote:
>
> Is anyone having problems removing their canopy after they have
> mounted the
> empennage and the associated fairing?
>
> I mounted my canopy with quick release pull pins and now that I have
> the
> vertical stabilizer mounted with the fairing attached I can no longer
> remove my canopy.
>
> What's up with this? This sounds like a definite design flaw to me.
> Especially if one needs to jettison the canopy while in flight
> without
> removing the VS in the process.
Color me stumped.
I've been working on my canopy for a while now and I remove it often.
I haven't attached the front frame to the rollers and I can slide the
thing back, lift it off the rollers and continue back until the runner
clears the track, then I lift it over the aircraft.
If you would otherwise have help to lift and remove it over the fuse
aft, I can see a problem, but...
I will also have quick release pins from the local sailboat shop to
attach the rollers to the frame. I expect if I have an off-field
landing in front of me for some reason, to pull the pins, unlock and
lift the canopy front and let the slipstream take it away (no getting
stuck under an upside-down bird leaking gas for this boy). I've read
and heard of canopies coming off aircraft when the canopy lock
checklist item was missed, and have never heard of the vertical stab
getting whacked.
Hope I never have to find out (or _you_)!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I made two beautiful F802G's (the angle on the forward side of the gearbox,
between the box and the floor). Exactly to the specs on dwg 24 -- even the
guide hole, 5/16" from the end. I went to cleco my work of art back in the
plane, and the guide hole is about 1/4" from the matching hole in the floor
skin.
Am I the only one? Since the holes are far enough apart, I guess I can just
let the (mis)guide(ed) hole take an extra rivet. It does seems strange that
there is nothing in the archives or Kevin Horton's web site about this, so I
thought I would check with The List, just in case my brain is frozen or
something. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Larry Bowen
RV-8 Gear Boxes
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: Terra Avionics repair |
The older model Terra's have a spotty reputation.mine has been worked on
twice by Avionics Place (Rockford Il),once by Radio Ranch,and once sent
back to the factory all in a 5 year span.I have been told the new models
are better.Each time I believe they did a good repair but after a few
months it went bad. Frankly they have left such a bad taste in my mouth
I do not want one in the RV6 I am building
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Dual output for water temp sender |
For any electronics gurus out there that can help. We are trying to sense
water temperature at the engine blocks of the replica P-38 for purposes of
supplying the data to both a meter and the electronic ignition. The sender
output is a resistance type (about 6K ohms at 60 deg F and drops as temp goes
up. There is no other place on the block that we can really put a second
sensor easily so we have one down at the thermostat lower on the hose (the
redrive covers the stock location).
Yesterday the test pilot had a water pump belt failure on the port engine and
wasn't able to determine the problem readily because the indicated temp
didn't increase (no circulation, so no accurate measurement of coolant temp
at that location).
We would like to find a way to use the engine block mounted sender for both
purposes. Is there a way to take the resistive output from the sender and
run it thru two high impedance follower stages to get two isolated resistance
indications that track the input? All help would be appreciated. Thanks in
advance.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com |
Merry Christmas Listers,
Does anyone know of a RV-8 module for any of the flight simulators out there?
Thanks,
Jack
Des Moines, IA
Wings to be here Friday!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Engine Baffles With C/S |
I am using Van's Baffle kit and am a little confused on how the forward
side baffles fit against the top cowl. Does the seal go to the air intake
ramps or off to the side against the cowl?
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo
(570)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dustin Norlund <rv6(at)address.com> |
Walmart sells the oil for the best price i have seen. But to get it at some
stores you have to ask the manager to order and stock it. In most towns with
alot of general aviation this will not be a problem (so my local manager says)
but.. I need someone who is lucky enough to live in a town where it is
stocked to get me the stock number so my store can order it. We could not
find it in the computer! Also Sams Club stocks aero oil in FL, I would like
the sams # but if someone can find the Walmart number that would be a good
start.
Dustin Norlund
Owasso, OK
RV6 - Taxi Testing, Sand Ridge Airpark, Collinsville OK
KD5JXZ - 2M, 440, APRS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <marcuscooper(at)team100.com> |
| Subject: | Re: seat belt cost |
Just wanted to add my 2 cents worth. I saw a lot of discussion about saving
money on seatbelts and how that is bad. In my humble opinion it's
worthwhile to save cash as long as the product is still going to do it's
job. I used Summit Racing seatbelts in both my Skybolt and RV-6. They look
great and are only about $60 a set (5 point). Non-ratcheting but great big
latching metals of earlier military style. I also had the unfortunate
opportunity to test the belts in my RV-6 when my poorly overhauled engine
decided to eat itself (holes everywhere, one connecting rod ended up in the
oil sump!) in one of those places where you're saying to yourself, I sure
hope the engine doesn't quit now! The landing was rough but the belts held
great and we both walked away without a scratch.
Marcus
RV-6 #2 (This time a quickbuild, I paid my dues)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | RE: [rv8list] RV-8 gearbox Q |
Ahhhh. Misery loves company. Yes, mine are great except for the hole 5/16"
from the edge. Because of that I will be building two more. Keeeeyrap!
Thanks. Off to Van's web store....
Larry Bowen
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Marshall A. Jacobson [mailto:rv8guy(at)bellsouth.net]
Sent: Monday, December 25, 2000 12:17 PM
To: rv8list(at)egroups.com
Subject: Re: [rv8list] RV-8 gearbox Q
No you are not the only one. It is that one hole 5/16 from the end that
hurt. Don't drill it till you fit it in there. All other dimensions are
fine. My hole was too close for me so I made a new 802G.
I have now finished one box, and am working on the other. These things
are
a lot of work.
For anybody that is not there yet, make sure that your 802D spacer fits
between the longerons nicely.
Merry Christmas everybody
Marshall Jacobson
80749 gear boxes
----------
> From: Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; rv8list(at)egroups.com
> Subject: [rv8list] RV-8 gearbox Q
> Date: Sunday, December 24, 2000 11:39 PM
>
I made two beautiful F802G's (the angle on the forward side of the
gearbox,
between the box and the floor). Exactly to the specs on dwg 24 -- even
the
guide hole, 5/16" from the end. I went to cleco my work of art back in
the
plane, and the guide hole is about 1/4" from the matching hole in the
floor
skin.
Am I the only one? Since the holes are far enough apart, I guess I can
just
let the (mis)guide(ed) hole take an extra rivet. It does seems strange
that
there is nothing in the archives or Kevin Horton's web site about this, so
I
thought I would check with The List, just in case my brain is frozen or
something. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Larry Bowen
RV-8 Gear Boxes
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)ticnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fly with the vinyl on? |
It was my understanding at the time that the protective covering was to
prevent marring from clamping during the shearing process. Also to
prevent marring during packing of the kit and during shipment.
cecilth(at)juno.com wrote:
>
>
> writes:
> >
> > vans only uses the vinyl coating for one reason. to keep the CNC
> > head from damaging the alclad during prepunching.
> >
> > R. Burns
> > RV-4
> > S/N 3524 N82RB
>
> I wonder what the only reason was before he got the CNC machine.
> Cecil
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: a warning for RV-9A fuselage builders |
Hi Chris, did you talk to someone at Vans about this? I was wondering how the
roll bar was going to attach to the 3/16 holes in the angle without notching
the horizontal web.
I could not open your web page, server must be real busy.
Thanks, Kevin
> Apparently, the angle will have to be modified later to eliminate an
> interference with the roll bar brace when finish kits are shipped.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Decker <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8.. forward bagage compartment |
> Has anybody gotten rid of the hinge for the cooling ramp. Seems to me
> that once the ramp is in and prosealed around the edges it isn't going
> to move. It is riveted in 2 locations by the fire wall.
> why the hinge?
>
> I thought I could put a piece of angle in place of the hinge.
> This would force the end of the cooling ramp (exhaust ramp ??) to
> conform to the bottom of the fuse. kinda smoother transition on the
> belly.
I called Van's last year and asked this same question. I suggested
rebending a piece of angle to accomplish the same thing. No problem was
the answer. Everything worked out fine.
Matt
RV8 Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John D. Heath" <jheath24(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dual output for water temp sender |
Here's a lead ,if nothing else. Mid to late '80's Mercedes Benz, 2.6 Ltr., 6
cylinder engines
used a Dual sensing sender that was used for Electronic Fuel Injection and
Ignition inputs.
The ground side of each of it's two (NTC) thermisters is the metal base of
the unit. If I remember right It's in that temp/resistance range. I'll see
if I can find a part number at the
shop' tomorrow.
JDHeath
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Monday, December 25, 2000 2:36 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Dual output for water temp sender
>
> For any electronics gurus out there that can help. We are trying to sense
> water temperature at the engine blocks of the replica P-38 for purposes of
> supplying the data to both a meter and the electronic ignition. The
sender
> output is a resistance type (about 6K ohms at 60 deg F and drops as temp
goes
> up. There is no other place on the block that we can really put a second
> sensor easily so we have one down at the thermostat lower on the hose (the
> redrive covers the stock location).
>
> Yesterday the test pilot had a water pump belt failure on the port engine
and
> wasn't able to determine the problem readily because the indicated temp
> didn't increase (no circulation, so no accurate measurement of coolant
temp
> at that location).
>
> We would like to find a way to use the engine block mounted sender for
both
> purposes. Is there a way to take the resistive output from the sender and
> run it thru two high impedance follower stages to get two isolated
resistance
> indications that track the input? All help would be appreciated. Thanks
in
> advance.
>
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Cartwright" <jcartwri(at)seidata.com> |
"RV-List Digest Server"
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 34 Msgs - 10/27/00 |
Please take me, Joe Cartwright, off of your mailing list. My e-mail is
jcartwri(at)seidata.com. I do NOT want to recieve this anymore. Thank you for
you cooperation.
Joe Cartwright
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rv-List: reaming spar joint attach holes |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
Subject: RE: RV-List: reaming spar joint attach holes
Thread-Topic: RV-List: reaming spar joint attach holes
Thread-Index: AcBryULWA875IewaThaULNGLaO43tAAkoAKg
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
Paul,
I think you're fine, I elongated one in the center section and Tom told
me to leave it alone. There's a lot of bolts in there. If you look at
the newer spar design (the -8 and -9) there simply is much less material
in the center section, and those airplanes aren't falling out of the
sky.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Their is not "simply much less material" in an RV-8 or RV-9.
If anything there is more.
There is a major misunderstanding about the RV wing spar designs
(RV-3,4,6 compared to RV-8 and 9).
The portion of the wing spar on an RV-3,4, or 6 that goes through the
fuselage is actually fuselage structure in the job that it does after the
wings are bolted on.
It prevents the bending loads of the wings from bending the fuselage in
half down the middle
(very over simplified explanation).
On the RV-8 and 9 this structure is permanently built into the fuselage
with the wings then attached to it.
Scott McDaniels
Aurora, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop. Governor & Engine Mounts |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Governor & Engine Mounts
My A\P has been in the business 30 years and claims a Woodward
Governor lasts at least twice as long as a McCauley!! The C-182 I fly
needed
a new Governor in just 5 Years. We have on plane on the airport with a
Woodward that has went through to props and is still working fine after
15
years!!!!! I used to wonder how a company that makes Governors but not
Props can stay in business but not anymore!!!
The best part is a new Woodward sells for the same price!
Just my
opinion
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Not any more!!!
Woodward jacked there prices way up so Van's quit carrying them.
Scott McDaniels
Aurora, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rv-List: a warning for RV-9A fuselage builders |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
From: "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com>
Subject: RV-List: a warning for RV-9A fuselage builders
If any RV-9A fuselage builders are far enough along to be working on the
front deck for the sliding canopy, you don't want to rivet the
1/8"x3/4"x3/4" angle to the center rib as the manual instructs you to do.
Apparently, the angle will have to be modified later to eliminate an
interference with the roll bar brace when finish kits are shipped.
Details
can be seen here: http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/corrections.html
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Fuselage
Chris,
I used the link to go to your web site and saw the response that you got
from Guss.
I think he misunderstood your question which caused him to give you an
incorrect answer.
There is actually nothing wrong. As a design compromise the angle is
meant to have to ride up on the steel plate of the roll bar brace. You
will be able to spread it apart enough from the rib to do so.
The plans were supposed to depict using #6 washers as spacers for the
last couple of rivet holes to begin gradually spacing the angle away from
the rib so that the brace was a little easier to insert.
BTW... this is one reason the RV-list is some times frustrating to those
of us that work at Van's.
This sort of post can cause 25 phone calls for the next open day of
business... but it is not that much of an issue (flame me if you wish,
but it is simple fact). I do not mean this as a slam to you Chris, or
any one else for that matter. I realize that you called Van's tech
support and got the wrong info. It happens some times. No one can know
every single detail about every single model, especial one that is so
new. I have built at least one of every model vans sells (some of them
multiple times) and I sure don't have all of the answers.
I will look into the plan sheet to see what info is there.
Scott McDaniels
Aurora, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Engine Baffles With C/S |
Jim, The baffle sides on my -8A with IO360 and C/S prop are attached to the
air intake. The left air intake has the air inlet for the air filter so
things are tight there but it does fit. I had to cut down the baffles quite
a bit in that area so they would clear the cowling and then added the baffle
seal. So far it has worked out.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
12.9 hours
>From: Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Engine Baffles With C/S
>Date: Mon, 25 Dec 2000 10:30:39 -0500
>
>
>I am using Van's Baffle kit and am a little confused on how the forward
>side baffles fit against the top cowl. Does the seal go to the air intake
>ramps or off to the side against the cowl?
>
>
>Jim Cimino
>RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
>http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo
>(570)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
>
>
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)surfsouth.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 34 Msgs - 10/27/00 |
Joe,
Go to the link below and follow the instructions. There is a block to
check that will allow you to unsubscribe to the RV list. Good luck.
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
Jerry Isler
Date: Monday, December 25, 2000 8:47 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 34 Msgs - 10/27/00
>Please take me, Joe Cartwright, off of your mailing list. My e-mail is
>jcartwri(at)seidata.com. I do NOT want to recieve this anymore. Thank you
for
>you cooperation.
>
>Joe Cartwright
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AV8TURDON(at)AOL.COM |
Santa flew in an Rv-8 With a IO540 C/S Long Range Tanks Full IFR dropped it
off and took Air Alaska Back to the North Pole.
Boy Am I Lucky this year.
Don "Mongo" Champagne
RV-6 N767DC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 6 Cowl Hinge's |
>
> Any good ideas, other than just replacing the hinge sections, for my
> breaking hinge "eyes" on the forward edges of my cowl of my 600 hour old
> RV6? The eyes in question are at the leading edge of the horizontal
> split of the cowl, along the outside edge of the cowl.
I don't have a "non replacement" solution for you, but...
Maybe you did this the first time around, but if you can't find a way to not
replace the hinge sections, try filing full radii on each (replacement)
hinge tab with an 1/8" diameter file. The hinges, as manufactured, have
horribly sharp internal corners which beg for fatigue failure. File enough
to completely remove this sharp inside corner. Push the file at 90 degrees
to the hinge pin line, to minimize narrowing of each tab. I did all the
hinges on the cowl in about an hour. I'm not flying yet, so no real life
experience; however, a sharp corner vs a .062" radius is a universe of
difference relative to fatigue life.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
Not real sure but it could be those big ole wooden things they lay down and
then nail railroad tracks onto. KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane <n8vd(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2000 7:08 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Christmas
>
> Sounds like a deal, but... What's a tie?
>
> -Bill
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "<Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com> (Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Christmas Lights |
Hey Terry,
How did you get your best friend, your wife, and your lover into your RV all
at once? You got one of them 4 seat RV's??
Seriously, I'm jealous. I can't wait to finish mine!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: TColeE(at)AOL.COM [mailto:TColeE(at)AOL.COM]
Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2000 8:11 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Christmas Lights
This evening the winds were calm, the sky clear, the
stars were bright and
my wife and I enjoyed a flight around town looking down at
the Christmas
lights. Had such a GREAT time we decided to fly over two
neighboring towns.
Told approach control of our plans and were treated as
royalty. The sights
are just tremendous. I know how Santa must feel as he
travels the world
seeing all the decorated houses, streets and businesses in
just a few short
days. I've planned this evening for many years as I was
building with my best
friend, lover, and wife. We really enjoyed the evening. Just
wanted to share
the experience.
Keep pounding the rivets. It's worth it. Terry E. Cole
N468TC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More on RV8 seats |
>
>I think flammability of seat material isn't very important. Maybe
>someone tell me where my thinking is astray?
>
>1. No-one is ever going to smoke in my plane. How exactly is the seat
>going to catch fire?
>
>2. There really isn't much material exposed to air... your body is
>covering it.
>
>3. Given the above, long before the seat I am sitting on is on fire,
>there will be a whole lot of other, more important, problems.
>
>What have I missed?
>
>Frank.
>
Full agreement here. If the flames have made it that far, you're already
dead or close to it. So, the flammability of the foam material is a pretty
moot point. People get all worked up about this, but what about the other
stuff in the cabin? Charts, wiring, the paint used on the sheet metal, your
clothes, shoes, plastic tubing, etc, it all burns too.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 34 Msgs - 10/27/00 |
Hi Joe,
You have to take yourself off the list. Click on "subscribe" on the
bottom of this message and follow the instructions...
Dave Burton
RV6A, wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Cartwright" <jcartwri(at)seidata.com>
Sent: Monday, December 25, 2000 7:11 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 34 Msgs - 10/27/00
>
> Please take me, Joe Cartwright, off of your mailing list. My e-mail is
> jcartwri(at)seidata.com. I do NOT want to recieve this anymore. Thank you
for
> you cooperation.
>
> Joe Cartwright
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: exhaust article on 4(6)-1 collectors |
The proper URL would be
http://www.geocities.com/plmjohnson/Exhaust/Exhaust.html
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
The Cam follower (tappet body) rides on the cam & contains the lifter
(plunger).
Don Jordan RV6A Arlington, Tx
*****************************************
What I recall pulling from the parts bin at random and cleaning up for
the overhaul was the
> HYDRAULIC TAPET BODIES, which by the way are still in fine shape.
>
> Would someone care to explain the difference between a hydraulic
> tappet body and a lifter. Seems like the same thing spelled
differently.
>
> Gary
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: exhaust article on 4(6)-1 collectors |
I removed the crossover (Tolle)from my RV4 0320 A2B and installed a
Vetterman 4 piper. It runs real good.I honestly am not able to tell the
difference .I am not trying to be negative but I wonder if all this 4
into a collector is not much ado about nothing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
I found out the difference the hard way when I ordered a new set of hydraulic
tappets for my O-320, they arrived as nice shiny new tappet bodies that were
hollow in the middle, no guts inside. You have to order the hydraulic lifter
seperate, or specify that you need both. My A&P that is assembling the engine
laughed and said "dont buy any more sh$% off the internet without talking to
me first!"
Kevin Shannon
-9A wiring & plumbing
> Would someone care to explain the difference between a hydraulic
> > tappet body and a lifter. Seems like the same thing spelled
> differently.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: exhaust article on 4(6)-1 collectors 26 Dec 2000 09:38:15 |
-0700
There was a series by CAF in Sport Aviation sometime ago on exhaust systems
including 4 into 1....Try EAA archives...Jim Brown, RV-3 & 4, NJ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | wandering drillbits |
Folks,
Here's the story...
In drilling my aileron bellcrank plates for the two pushrod bearing
attachments I messed up all four plates. The instructions do not
provide a lot of info - so I went with the video method (compass, drill,
assemble, drill larger). I think that I got the compass part right
since the three arcs intersected as described...where I went wrong was
allowing my drill bits to walk around during the drilling process.
My 3/16" bits were cheapies that I had laying around - the real problem
is that my good bits (Avery) walk also. I've tried using a center punch
also with no better results.
Any suggestions as to technique??? Do I need to drill everything on a
press???
This stuff is getting real frustrating...
Ralph Capen
with more scrap to practice drilling into...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wandering drillbits |
Ralph:
A suggestion that I would have for you is to first drill a pilot hole say
with a #40 drill bit. These are easier to control and won't wander as much.
Once you have your pilot hole, then drill it out to the correct size.
Hope that helps.
Regards
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuse
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: Ralph E. Capen <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Tuesday, December 26, 2000 1:32 PM
Subject: RV-List: wandering drillbits
>
>Folks,
>
>Here's the story...
>
>In drilling my aileron bellcrank plates for the two pushrod bearing
>attachments I messed up all four plates. The instructions do not
>provide a lot of info - so I went with the video method (compass, drill,
>assemble, drill larger). I think that I got the compass part right
>since the three arcs intersected as described...where I went wrong was
>allowing my drill bits to walk around during the drilling process.
>
>My 3/16" bits were cheapies that I had laying around - the real problem
>is that my good bits (Avery) walk also. I've tried using a center punch
>also with no better results.
>
>Any suggestions as to technique??? Do I need to drill everything on a
>press???
>
>This stuff is getting real frustrating...
>
>Ralph Capen
>with more scrap to practice drilling into...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | VG downside question |
If the VG decreases the clean configuration stall speed from 55 mph ias to 44
mph ias, this would change the maneuvering speed from 135 mph ias to 108 mph
ias.
Where the maneuvering speed is calculated as the square root of 6 (2.45)
times the stall speed.
I didn't see this mentioned in the VG thread, but I might have missed seeing
it.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | E-6 Ejection Story |
Hi all,
Hope the holidays are going well. This isn't RV related, but it is one wild aviation
story.
See:
http://www.gallagher.com/ejection_seat/
In several ways, this story reminds me of my hawk strike incident. The weird part
is his aircraft # is 515. Mine is 515L. Spooky. Make me glad RV's don't
have ejection seats.
I also got a chance to put up some photos of the damage to my RV from the hawk
strike at the SoCal web page:
http://members3.clubphoto.com/socal230330/
Hope everyone has a great and safe New Year.
Laird RV-6, N515L, 150 hrs (putting in a new windscreen today)
O-360, Sensenich (83)
Simi Valley, SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wandering drillbits |
Ralph
One thing I am missing in your description is 'center puching' where you
want to drill. even a very slight dimple will hold the drill bit on
target a lot better........Trying to steady a drillbit on scratched
crosshaires is very difficult, even in a drill press, where #30 and
#40 drilbits can bend just enough to drill off center and ruin yer
piece.
I don't know about accessability to the 6's plates, but you can buy
center punch sets in varying diameters. you could find the one which
fits snug in the hole in the bearing and give it a slight tap. That
would leave a small dimple for the drill to start in.
Gert
"Ralph E. Capen" wrote:
>
>
> Folks,
>
> Here's the story...
>
> In drilling my aileron bellcrank plates for the two pushrod bearing
> attachments I messed up all four plates. The instructions do not
> provide a lot of info - so I went with the video method (compass, drill,
> assemble, drill larger). I think that I got the compass part right
> since the three arcs intersected as described...where I went wrong was
> allowing my drill bits to walk around during the drilling process.
>
> My 3/16" bits were cheapies that I had laying around - the real problem
> is that my good bits (Avery) walk also. I've tried using a center punch
> also with no better results.
>
> Any suggestions as to technique??? Do I need to drill everything on a
> press???
>
> This stuff is getting real frustrating...
>
> Ralph Capen
> with more scrap to practice drilling into...
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wandering drillbits |
Hi Ralph
apologies, I see that you did centerpuch.
I have noticed that my short drill bits (jobber lenght ??) tend to
wander more than my 6" and 12" bits and have drilled holes with the 6"
quite a few times. Maybe i am just clumsy ( as well as a poor reader)
too.
alternatively, you could drill a hole in a scrap piece of metal and
clamp that on top of the piece which needs the hole. the allready
drilled hole in the scrap will prevent the drill from wandering away on
the piece to be drilled.
I have in my toolbox pieces of steel with varying size holes in it for
just such occasions. most are 1/4" thick barstock scraps, but I guess
for a few holes even a piece of hardwood wood do.
Gert
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Bart's engine arrived |
About 8 months ago I ordered an O320-D2A from Aero Sport Power. Well it
arrived! What a beauty! All the work appears to be first rate. But since
this is the first airplane I've ever built and will be the first engine I've
really come into close contact with, I don't really know for sure. All I
can say is it really looks nice! Came with the starter, alternator, mags &
harnesses installed.
I'd like to talk with anyone who's bought and/or installed one of Bart's
engines. I haven't looked at it too closely yet, does anyone know what kind
of alternator Bart usually uses? Does it have a built in voltage regulator
(I already bought the B&C regulator so I hope not)? Anything I should look
for or expect? Any suggested reading on installing engines aside from Tony
Bingellis' books?
Jazzed in Modesto...
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wandering drillbits |
Ralph,
The steel parts will obviously always be a little more difficult to drill
than aluminum. Use a drill press if possible and set the piece on a small
block of wood to hold it up (I used a 4" piece of 2x4) Us a drill bit 3/32
or smaller and us a punch to locate the hole. Sometimes a center punch
doesn't leave a big enough mark so I use a small hammer and a drift punch
to mark it a little harder if necessary.
Use a drill press and clamp it down and you shouldn't have a problem. As a
last resort, you can use the cone shaped grinding wheel and a dremel to
leave a nice mark and drill into that.
I think that the hole location in the bellcrank is important, but if you
miss it by a 32nd or so you won't have any problems.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
Building Tanks
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
>
> Folks,
>
> Here's the story...
>
> In drilling my aileron bellcrank plates for the two pushrod bearing
> attachments I messed up all four plates. The instructions do not
> provide a lot of info - so I went with the video method (compass, drill,
> assemble, drill larger). I think that I got the compass part right
> since the three arcs intersected as described...where I went wrong was
> allowing my drill bits to walk around during the drilling process.
>
> My 3/16" bits were cheapies that I had laying around - the real problem
> is that my good bits (Avery) walk also. I've tried using a center punch
> also with no better results.
>
> Any suggestions as to technique??? Do I need to drill everything on a
> press???
>
> This stuff is getting real frustrating...
>
> Ralph Capen
> with more scrap to practice drilling into...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wandering drillbits |
"Ralph E. Capen" wrote:
>
>
> Folks,
>
> Here's the story...
>
> In drilling my aileron bellcrank plates for the two pushrod bearing
> attachments I messed up all four plates. The instructions do not
> provide a lot of info - so I went with the video method (compass, drill,
> assemble, drill larger). I think that I got the compass part right
> since the three arcs intersected as described...where I went wrong was
> allowing my drill bits to walk around during the drilling process.
>
> My 3/16" bits were cheapies that I had laying around - the real problem
> is that my good bits (Avery) walk also. I've tried using a center punch
> also with no better results.
>
> Any suggestions as to technique??? Do I need to drill everything on a
> press???
>
> This stuff is getting real frustrating...
>
> Ralph Capen
> with more scrap to practice drilling into...
>
Did you centerpunch then drill with the 3/16 bit? If so, try drilling
with something well under 1/8 first for a pilot hole. Look at the tip of
a 3/16 bit. Most metal cutting bits have a lot of 'meat' at the tip for
strength, & the tip is too big to center in the centerpunch dimple.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: VG downside question |
So which speed do you use for the stall? With flaps or without, with power
or without?? The stall speed without has not changed, just that your stall
speed with lift enhancers has been lowered.
----- Original Message -----
From: <LeastDrag93066(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2000 1:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: VG downside question
>
> If the VG decreases the clean configuration stall speed from 55 mph ias to
44
> mph ias, this would change the maneuvering speed from 135 mph ias to 108
mph
> ias.
>
> Where the maneuvering speed is calculated as the square root of 6 (2.45)
> times the stall speed.
>
> I didn't see this mentioned in the VG thread, but I might have missed
seeing
> it.
>
> Jim Ayers
> RV-3 N47RV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: heat gun / fiberglass |
dear listers
i need input , has anyone used a heat gun to straighten a fiberglass cowel? i
have about 1/2 warp on the front of the cowel where the air inters the left
side. i can pull it by hand to make it match up, but when it is let go it
returns to the same posistion.
any help?
scott
tampa rv6a fiberglass, yuck!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Glenn,
I don't think it's that personal. Their prices are published. I believe
this year's price was US $15,500. They lowered it to $13,500 because I
opted to go with a serviceable crankshaft rather than a brand new one.
I am also copying the RV-List in case anyone else is wondering.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: glenn williams [mailto:willig10(at)yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2000 1:08 PM
To: svanarts(at)unionsafe.com
Subject: engine
Scott I was wondering since you purchased the engine
from Bart could you tell me what the price was? I hate
to ask you this as it is personal in nature but I am
shopping around and looking at prices. Can you help
me? Thanks
Glenn Williams
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: heat gun / fiberglass |
>
>dear listers
>i need input , has anyone used a heat gun to straighten a fiberglass cowel?
i
>have about 1/2 warp on the front of the cowel where the air inters the left
>side. i can pull it by hand to make it match up, but when it is let go it
>returns to the same posistion.
>any help?
Scott,
I used a heat gun to straighten this area, per builder manual instructions.
It is effective, but now that area is cracking through the paint. I don't
know what an alternative might be though.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
No,No. They are the little plastic things you bundle wire together with.
D Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <Scott.Wilder(at)sf.frb.org> |
My 2 cents on drilling:
* try to use the proper speeds for the material ( see any machinery
handbook)
* as another RVer suggested, use a center punch with a hammer to make a
good impression(be certain when doing
this to back up the part on a hard surface in order to avoid bending
the whole area
* use step drilling process ie. 1/16-1/8-3/16 etc. as much as possible and
a drill press whenever possible, especially on
thin pieces to avoid the grabbing tendancy on breakthrough, oh yeah,
invest in a good clamping system for your press
dont try to hold the piece by hand, it will wobble, you wont be able to
stop it, and you will get a triangular hole shape.
* use cutting oil
* DONT use cheap drills, drillmotors, or drill presses. Most cheap tools
have soft bushing material that wears quickly
causes the drill to spin eccentrically, dont know where you are but I
buy my split-point drills through a large industrial
parts house at a very reasonable price, cheaper than any aviation supply
house, in california I use McMaster-Carr
(562)692-5911 or Grainger www.grainger.com
* once you use a drill on steel, don't use it again on aluminum
Scott RV4 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
I can put 302 Fords together in my sleep but every time I turn around I learn
something new about my Lycoming. Thanks for clearing up my misconception of
lycoming's valve train.
Gary
Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> I found out the difference the hard way when I ordered a new set of hydraulic
> tappets for my O-320, they arrived as nice shiny new tappet bodies that were
> hollow in the middle, no guts inside. You have to order the hydraulic lifter
> seperate, or specify that you need both. My A&P that is assembling the engine
> laughed and said "dont buy any more sh$% off the internet without talking to
> me first!"
> Kevin Shannon
> -9A wiring & plumbing
>
> > Would someone care to explain the difference between a hydraulic
> > > tappet body and a lifter. Seems like the same thing spelled
> > differently.
>
> _
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wandering drillbits |
>
>
> Here's the story...
>
> In drilling my aileron bellcrank plates for the two pushrod bearing
> attachments I messed up all four plates. The instructions do not
> provide a lot of info - so I went with the video method (compass, drill,
> assemble, drill larger). I think that I got the compass part right
> since the three arcs intersected as described...where I went wrong was
> allowing my drill bits to walk around during the drilling process.
>
> My 3/16" bits were cheapies that I had laying around - the real problem
> is that my good bits (Avery) walk also. I've tried using a center punch
> also with no better results.
First and foremost don't skimp on drill bits. Nuff said about that. I seldom
use a center punch as I find that when the turning bit (held in a drill
press) hits the small crater it immediately tries to walk out of the crater.
Depending on accuracy requirements of the hole I start with a small bit
(1/16") for real accurate placement of the hole and go to #40 if pinpoint
accuracy is not needed which is most of the time. In the drill press if
everything is aligned, that is that the work piece is perpendicular to the
drill, then walking has never been a problem if the bit is sharp and clean.
Lower the bit until is just about ready to touch the marked X for drilling
and fine position the work and then slowly feed the bit into the work.
For hand held applications place the center of the bit on the marked X and
turn the drill chuck by hand to for 1/2 to 1 turn to start the drill bit
cutting where you want it. Then squeeze the trigger and keep the bit
perpendicular to the work piece by keeping the bit and it's mirror image in
the shiny skin aligned.
Before I let my wife drill holes in our fuselage I made her practice on
hundreds of holes. I marked them off on aluminum strips using my fine line
Sharpie and when she could accurately place the hole on the center of the
line I let her move on to the fuselage. For rivet lines the pitch (spacing)
of the rivet is not as critical to the eye as keeping the hole centered on
the line. With a little practice one can drill the hole exactly on the X
every time.
Gary
>
>
> Any suggestions as to technique??? Do I need to drill everything on a
> press???
>
> This stuff is getting real frustrating...
>
> Ralph Capen
> with more scrap to practice drilling into...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's response on reaming |
"BOBE." wrote:
>
>
> I have found the wing bolts go in good if you take several long aircraft
> bolts, cut the threads off,grind and polish the ends to a bullet
> shape,oil them,now tap them gently into place while someone gently rocks
> the wings up and down.Do not ,repeat ,do not drill or ream .
>
I guess I don't know who you are to say not to ream if the person that
builds and drills the spars does it for customers. I well agree do not drill.
J Springer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
Does anyone have an email address for Bob Archer the antenna guy?
Bruce
Glasair III
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | zilik(at)bewellnet.com |
| Subject: | Understanding Alternators -- an Overview |
I was just doing a little surfing in my spare time and stumbled across
this. I thought some on the list might find it interesting.
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/alternator-overview.html
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
bobsantennas(at)earthlink.net
phone 310 316 8796
Mike Nellis - RV-6 N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
Building Tanks
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Gray" <brucegray(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2000 6:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: Bob Archer
>
> Does anyone have an email address for Bob Archer the antenna guy?
>
> Bruce
> Glasair III
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <bakerje(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: exhaust article on 4(6)-1 collectors 26 Dec 2000 09:38:15 |
-0700
There certainly a lot of opinions about exhaust systems. For the majority of
our applications, turning 2700 rpm, I don't believe there will be any gain
in horse power by using a two into one or four into one or for that matter a
so called tuned exhaust system. For our low rpm engines I think most will
find the shorter or should I say the straightest pipes will work the best.
The tuned exhaust show there most benefit when you are turning above 5000
rpm. I believe the most horse power can be achieved by a balanced and blue
printed rebuild with a touch of flow work on the intake and exhaust valves
and seats. Or if you have the room how about a turbo charger?
My own humble opinion.
Jim Baker
RV-4 N513J
Vetterman's 4 pipe system on a O-320-H2AD
do not achive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
bobsantennas(at)earthlink.com
Cy Galley - editor, B-C Contact!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Gray" <brucegray(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2000 5:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: Bob Archer
>
> Does anyone have an email address for Bob Archer the antenna guy?
>
> Bruce
> Glasair III
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Stribling's" <bbattery(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Re: how to flush oil cooler |
Subject: RV-List: how to flush oil cooler
, I am looking at the oil cooler and wondering if
> it can be flushed out or if it should be trashed. Is there a way to do
this
> with reasonable chance of success, or should I >
I would take it to a good transmission shop and have them flush it out, they
have to flush out oil coolers for the transmission before installing new
transmissions.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | A RV Christmas Carrol |
Good one Scott!
;-)
James
... just back and catching up on RV-List mail
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2000 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: A RV Christmas Carrol
A RV Christmas Carrol
T'was the night before Christmas, and all through my home,
I was ready to go flying, and I wasn't alone.
The stockings were hung by the hangers with care,
In hopes that St. Nicholas soon would be there.
The pilots were nestled all snug in their beds,
While visions of dogfights danced in their heads.
And my wife in her robe, and me in my flight suit,
Headed straight for the flightline, for a brisk winter scoot.
When out in the lawn, we could hardly believe,
Was a machine so magnificent and they call them RV's.
I lined up with the runway, we flew like a flash,
But there were no Mooneys or Bonanzas to pass.
The moon reflected all the new fallen snow,
Its amazing how small things look down below.
When what to my wondering eyes should appear,
But a miniature sleigh, and eight tiny reindeer.
With a fat old driver, so lively and quick,
That I knew in a moment it must be St. Nick.
He was slow as a Cessna, as I quickly came,
And heard him whistled, and called them by name;
Now Dasher, now Dancer, now Prancer, now Visein,
On Comet! On Cupid! On Donder and Blitzen!
Lets go faster now ! can't you see!
Were being passed by a couple in a RV.
He couldn't believe, how my machine could fly,
How quick he could be, and cover the sky.
Side by side we flew, and Santa took note,
Just how many toys, this RV could tote:
And then in a twinkle, he called out to me,
"Hey where can I get myself a RV? "
I shouted back, " what size do you need,
By the looks of your belly, a RV6 indeed."
How quick I could deliver, all my toys in the night,
And how do I obtain, transition training for flight.
A call to Van's Aircraft, I said cheerfully,
Then you will have to build, this thing called RV.
His eyes - how the twinkled! The building bug has bit,
On his cell phone he called, and ordered a kit.
I could tell he wanted a ride. As his cheeks filled with droul,
We pulled over and I let him, strap on this lil jewel.
The stump of a pipe he held tight in his teeth,
As we watched the earth grow smaller, quickly beneath.
At blistering speeds, he never felt before,
But due to his size, there would be no RV-4.
I lifted his snowy white beard, so I could see his chin,
He was experiencing his first RV grin.
I must hurry to finish, my deliveries tonight,
And get busy building, and one day take flight!
Christmas will never be the same, I heard him yell,
As he putted off into darkness, that RV was swell !!!
No more need for reindeer, or pixi dust!
The sleigh will stay empty, and turn into rust.
The freezer will be full of vinison, for many a year,
When the elves find out, they will stand and cheer.
I heard him exclaim, as he felt so alive,
Have a Merry Christmas to all, and please DON'T ARCHIVE !!!!
MERRY CHRISTMAS & HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYBODY !
SCOTT REVIERE
TAMPA, FLORIDA
RV6A FINISHING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
Thanks Guys....
Bruce
Cy Galley wrote:
>
> bobsantennas(at)earthlink.com
>
> Cy Galley - editor, B-C Contact!
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bruce Gray" <brucegray(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2000 5:37 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Bob Archer
>
> >
> > Does anyone have an email address for Bob Archer the antenna guy?
> >
> > Bruce
> > Glasair III
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | S-Tec Servo Torque |
For those of you with S-Tec autopilots, what torque did you use on the
center nut on the roll servo? I'm using a capstan, not a lever arm. I
called S-Tec and they "think" it should be around 15 lbin, but weren't
really sure. The avionics tech thinks that is too low. I have an 8, but it
should be the same for a 4, 6 or 8.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 panel/wiring/stuff
Seattle area
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Instrument Pictures |
Can some one please send me digital images of the flight instruments? I'm
trying to put a finished look on my cardboard panel.
Thank-you,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bendix/King KLN 89B Manual wanted |
You can go to the Bendix King web site www.bendixking.com,and if you join the
Bendix King pilots club, it=E2=80=99s free.=C2=A0 You can download the .PDF file
of the
manual.=C2=A0 I will warn you, that it 12MB in size.=C2=A0 In addition, you can
download Bendix King product catalogs and manuals for all their products.
Randy Riggles
RV-8 Indianapolis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Grooves in Scotch Brite wheel? |
> Did you start building and RV and have many, deep grooves in your Scotch
> Brite Wheel? I tried to think of ways to get rid of the grooves since they
> started to make rib flanges into razor blades (well, almost).
I used the stone wheel that I took off when I put the Scotchbrite one on.
> Well, don't worry about it. When you fabricate the T-405's (tank to
fuselage
> attach brackets), you can get rid of most of them
Yeah but I still like to dress it every once in a while
> Anyone care to comment how many Scortch Brite wheels they went through for
> the entire kit? I read somewhere that one should be enough.
Probably for the newer kits. Actually probably for the older too, for most
people anyway. I guess I'm just hard on them (remaking too many parts
probably) because mine was getting too small late in the fuselage/early
finish kit stage so I got a new one.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <s6es116(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Size DOES matter |
Please pardon the simplicity of this question (I'm
obviously an RV newbie here):
At 6'4"/220lbs, which RV models (if any) am I most
likely to comfortably fit in? Cockpit size has always
been the #1 airplane disqualifier for me.
I intend to purchase a used RV rather than build one
(I am fully cognizant of my limitations; I am QUITE
CERTAIN that I possess neither the skill nor the
patience to build. You gentlemen that DO are a
special breed).
So, will I fit into a -4 or should I only be looking
for an -8 (I prefer tandem seating)?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Pictures |
Which ones do you want - I've got the panel planner stuff plus I've added a
few - zap me offline with a list...
Ralph Capen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2000 11:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: Instrument Pictures
>
> Can some one please send me digital images of the flight instruments? I'm
> trying to put a finished look on my cardboard panel.
>
> Thank-you,
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "<Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com> |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with ESMTP id
for" ;
Wed,
27 Dec 2000 07:45:54.-0500(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: heat gun / fiberglass |
12/27/2000 07:41:50 AM
How about filling and fairing with West Systems 407 lightweight structural
filler then adding one layer of 10 oz cloth over it. I'm not real clear on
what you are trying to tweak but I think this would be easier and stronger.
Eric Henson
"Larry Pardue" (at)matronics.com on 12/26/2000 04:44:24 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: heat gun / fiberglass
>
>dear listers
>i need input , has anyone used a heat gun to straighten a fiberglass
cowel?
i
>have about 1/2 warp on the front of the cowel where the air inters the
left
>side. i can pull it by hand to make it match up, but when it is let go it
>returns to the same posistion.
>any help?
Scott,
I used a heat gun to straighten this area, per builder manual instructions.
It is effective, but now that area is cracking through the paint. I don't
know what an alternative might be though.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Oberst" <joberst(at)columbus.rr.com> |
Bruce, his email in my file is 73401.1665(at)compuserve.com but it may be out
of date.
Jim.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2000 6:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: Bob Archer
>
> Does anyone have an email address for Bob Archer the antenna guy?
>
> Bruce
> Glasair III
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rv-List: a warning for RV-9A fuselage builders(Rv-list use |
at Vans)
In a message dated 12/25/00 9:02:52 PM Eastern Standard Time,
smcdaniels(at)juno.com writes:
> BTW... this is one reason the RV-list is some times frustrating to those
> of us that work at Van's.
> This sort of post can cause 25 phone calls for the next open day of
> business... but it is not that much of an issue (flame me if you wish,
> but it is simple fact). I do not mean this as a slam to you Chris, or
> any one else for that matter. I realize that you called Van's tech
> support and got the wrong info. It happens some times. No one can know
> every single detail about every single model, especial one that is so
> new. I have built at least one of every model vans sells (some of them
> multiple times) and I sure don't have all of the answers.
> I will look into the plan sheet to see what info is there.
Hi Scott,
I wonder if by the same token, if this note was not brought to your
attention, how many more people would call Guss and there be a
misunderstanding on the same subject. I think it is a positive thing that
people post their questions to Van's on the list and the response. It could
save 25 phone calls to Vans by answering the question to all of us. I can see
how the list frustrates the team at Van's , but they should also take
advantage of its goodness, i.e. mass communication!
Bernie Kerr, 6A flying since may, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Pitted Lifter Pictures |
Last week Bill Boyd mentioned the problems he was having with his lifter
and cam. I've posted some pictures of the tappets and Bill's plane on my
website. Click on the following link.
http://mnellis.jnet.net/RV-6_Page/BillBoyd.htm#Lifters
Mike Nellis - RV-6 N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
Building Tanks
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | For Sale - ElectroAir Electronic Ignition |
For Sale - 4-cylinder Jeff Rose/ElectroAir ignition system (single unit).
With plug wires (for O-320), magneto pad timing pickup and aprox. 10 hrs of
use. The unit works perfectly. Anyone seriously interested, please inquire
off the list. Thanks.
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ ~58-hrs
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Size DOES matter |
In a message dated 12/27/00 2:42:25 AM Pacific Standard Time,
s6es116(at)yahoo.com writes:
<< At 6'4"/220lbs, which RV models (if any) am I most
likely to comfortably fit in? Cockpit size has always
been the #1 airplane disqualifier for me. >>
You will want a 6/6A slider with the tall guy mods (roll bar that has been
raised and moved forward will produce a 41" seat floor to canopy crest
dimension), an 8/8A or a 9A. My 6A has the these mods but is not for sale.
Good Luck in your search.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mitch Robbins" <robm(at)am2.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dual Fuel Gauge |
We currently have a digital gauge under development that reads two tanks,
totalizes, and works with nearly any resistive senders including the Van's
originals. It is calibrated electronically during installation and displays
in gallons. All in a two inch instrument package. Some details are online
at http://am2.com/nonlinear/index.htm The price will be $149. Prototypes
are working and I'm waiting for better (spelled warmer)weather in Minnesota
to do some flight testing. If anyone with a flying airplane wants to
install one and do some field testing let me know!
Mitch Robbins
AM2, LLC
RV4 N13MR flying since '91
robm(at)am2.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Ervin" <bjervin(at)home.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 24, 2000 2:35 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dual Fuel Gauge
>
> Hi all
> I'll expand on Eric's question, Does anyone sell a dual fuel gauge for
> less than $300.00. EI's gauge is nice but $345 and $435 a copy is a bit
> steep.
>
> happy holidays
> Bill in Spokane
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
I don't have them here right now as they are off getting covered. I did make
a post on them a few months ago with the link to the company in the States
that markets them. They were easy to install as they just stick on at their
edges. It is the seat cover that holds them in
place...........Norman..........
> What kind of seat heaters do you have and did you install them yourself?
> (I recenly bought some Carbotex.)
>
> Thanks!
>
> Wayne Williams
> RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | flying in snowy weather |
Thread-Topic: flying in snowy weather
Thread-Index: AcBwLq4w2qE2XvqBR9mLbwkkM+Uc7w=
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
I'm having serious withdrawals being grounded because of the snow on my
grass strip...I've even entertained the thought of renting spam help
alleviate the pain. (My id says my ego is nuts).
How much snow can the RV handle without skis? I'd say the average snow
depth is 5-6". Does anyone fly through snow that deep without skis? My
hangarmate's supercub handles it pretty well, but he has 600x6 tires.
I've been looking for a set of skis for my bird but they're VERY
expensive, and the only "experimental" skis I've found were ones for
ultralights, and none of those had provisions to retain the tire. I
hate to say it but my snowboard that I haven't used in a couple of years
looks like a very good candidate to make a ski out of, if I could find
another one like it. Has anyone out there made skis for their RV?
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 64 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AP-IA Bookstore <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flying in snowy weather |
>
>
> How much snow can the RV handle without skis? I'd say the average snow
Depends on the snow. If its light and dry, 5-6" probably won't be much of a
problem. But if its heavy and wet and crusty, that's another story. Perhaps
2" would be max.
I'd also consider removing the wheel pants if you are going to fly often
from snowy fields. Besides the drag of the pant through the snow, your
wheels will kick snow and slush into the pant which will then freeze around
your brakes making them quite ineffective.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Begnaud" <Shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat Heaters |
I found the link for the seat heaters in the archives:
http://www.skylitesunroofs.com/p_carbotex_seat_heaters.html
cliff
>
> I don't have them here right now as they are off getting covered. I did
make
> a post on them a few months ago with the link to the company in the States
> that markets them. They were easy to install as they just stick on at
their
> edges. It is the seat cover that holds them in
> place...........Norman..........
>
> > What kind of seat heaters do you have and did you install them yourself?
> > (I recenly bought some Carbotex.)
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Wayne Williams
> > RV-8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gunn <ggunn(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | certifiable engine |
Can a Lycoming engine with no logs be re-certified by overhauling it with
serviceable parts or would
it have to be done by the manufacture.
Thanks,
Gary Gunn
RV-6 ( wing tanks)
(starting to think about a engine)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
"B. Keith Peshak" ,
"BSILVER05(at)aol.com" ,
Charles Reeves--dec 99 ,
David Bukowski , dhoop ,
"doncarson2000(at)yahoo.com" ,
earl stark , Ed Zercher ,
Gary Glaser , Jaugilas ,
"Pegit2(at)aol.com" , Phil Branshaw ,
"rv-list(at)matronics.com" ,
shakib a qutob , sue gregor ,
tom rogers
| Subject: | [Fwd: Fw: Send My New Pilots License] |
THIS IS TOO GOOD TO MISS
>
> Subject: Send My New Pilots License
>
> > A little more holiday humor for all you pilots or aviation
> > enthusiasts...
> >
> >
> > ----------
> >
> > Inspector Hal J. Kennedy
> > Flight Standards District Office
> > Miami IFO, Miami, FL
> >
> > Dear Mr Kennedy:
> >
> > Here is the letter you asked me to send you about my flight back in
> > December.
> >
> > First of all, I would like to thank that very nice, older fellow you had
> > with you yesterday, you know, the one who took my student pilot's
> > license and told me I wouldn't need it any more. I guess that means that
> > he is giving me my full fledged pilot's license. After all that happened
> > yesterday, I have earned it. You should watch that fellow though. After
> > I told him about the flight, he seemed quite nervous and his hands were
> > shaking. He said he had never heard anything like it before. Anyhow,
> > here is what happened.
> >
> > The weather has been so bad here in Ardmore since I soloed last week
> > that I had not been able to go flying. But yesterday I wasn't about to
> > let low ceilings and visibility, and a little freezing drizzle stop me
> > from flying up to Oklahoma City and back. I was pretty proud of having
> > soloed in only 6 hours, so I invited John Winters, my next door
> > neighbor, to go with me. We planned to fly up to Oklahoma City Will
> > Rogers airport, which, as you know, is less than 100 miles from Ardmore.
> > There is this excellent restaurant on Meridian just north of I-40 that
> > serves absolutely wonderful char broiled steaks and the greatest mixed
> > drinks.
> >
> > Well, on the way to the airport the road was icy and our car slid in the
> > ditch. I can see why they say that the most dangerous part of a trip is
> > the drive to the airport. My neighbor was a little concerned about the
> > weather, but when I reminded him once again about those steaks and the
> > booze that we would soon be enjoying, he seemed much happier.
> >
> > When we arrived at the airport there were still a few snow showers
> > around but the freezing drizzle had almost stopped. I checked the
> > weather and was assured that it was solid IFR all the way. I was
> > delighted the weather was so good. When I talked to the man who runs the
> > airport, I found out that the airplane I had been flying was covered
> > with ice. You can imagine my disappointment. Just then a friendly young
> > line boy suggested that I take one of the airplanes that was in the
> > hanger. I told him to pull one out. I saw immediately that it was very
> > much like the Cessna 150 I have been flying. I think he called it a 337.
> > He told me it was also made by Cessna. I noticed right away that it had
> > two tails, but I didn't say anything because, well, I was in a hurry. Oh
> > yes, it had a spare engine too.
> >
> > I unlocked the door and we climbed in. I began looking for the place to
> > put the key. Now I don't want to get anyone in trouble, but it shouldn't
> > be necessary to get out the airplane manual and follow the checklist
> > just to fly an airplane. That's ridiculous. I never saw so many dials
> > and needles and knobs and handles and switches. As we both know, they
> > have simplified this a lot in the 150. I forgot to mention that I did
> > file a flight plan with the guy in the tower. He said I would need to
> > because of the weather. When I told him I was flying a pressurized
> > Skymaster (that's what is said on the control wheel) he said it was all
> > right to go up Victor-163 all the way. I don't know why he called it a
> > victor, I guess that's just his pet name for an interstate highway. And
> > besides, it is I-35 Not 163. But those fellows try to do a good job.
> > They told me a lot of other stuff too, but you know how much red tape
> > there is when you deal with the government.
> >
> > The takeoff was one of my best, and as I carefully left the pattern just
> > the way the book says it should be done, I noticed that the skymaster
> > doesn't climb as good as the 150. The tower told me to contact Fort
> > Worth Center. I dialed in the frequency that he gave me but it seemed
> > kind of silly to call them since I wasn't going to Fort Worth. Just then
> > there must have been some kind of emergency because a lot of airline
> > pilots began yelling stuff at the same time and made such a racket that
> > I turned my radio off. You'd think that those professionals would be
> > better trained. I-35 was right under me, and since from that I knew that
> > I was on course, I went right on up into the clouds. After all, it was
> > snowing so hard by now that it was a waste of time to look outside, you
> > could only see about a quarter of a mile. Going into the clouds was a
> > bad thing to do, I realized, since my neighbor undoubtedly wanted to see
> > the scenery, especially the snow cover on the Arbuckle Mountains ahead
> > of us. But everyone has to be disappointed some time, and we pilots have
> > to make the best of it, don't we.
> >
> > It was pretty much smooth flying, and with the ice and snow that seemed
> > to be forming all over the windshield, there wasn't much to see. I will
> > say that I handled the controls quite easily for a pilot of only six
> > hours. My computer and pencils fell out of my shirt pocket once, but
> > sometimes these things happen I am told. I don't expect you to believe
> > this, but at one time my pocket watch was standing straight up on its
> > chain. That was pretty funny, and I asked my neighbor to look, but he
> > just kept staring straight ahead with sort of a glassy look in his eyes.
> > I figured that he was afraid of heights, like all non-pilots are. By the
> > way, something was wrong with the altimeter. It kept winding And
> > unwinding all the time.
> >
> > Finally I decided we had flown about long enough to be in Oklahoma City.
> > I had it all worked out on my E6B computer. I am a whiz at that
> > computer, but something must have gone wrong with it, since when I came
> > down to look for the airport there wasn't anything there except a lot of
> > houses. Those weather people had sure been wrong too. It was real
> > marginal conditions, with a ceiling of about 100 feet. You just can't
> > trust anybody in this business except yourself, right? Why, there was
> > even thunderstorms going on, with an occasional bolt of lightening. I
> > decided that my neighbor should see how beautiful it was, and the way he
> > lightening seemed to turn that snow on the roof tops all yellow; and the
> > roof tops were so close that it looked like you could just reach out and
> > touch them. But guess he was asleep, having gotten over his fear of
> > heights, and I didn't want to wake him up. Anyway, just then I had an
> > emergency, the front engine ran out of gas. It really didn't worry me
> > since I had read the book, and knew right where the other ignition
> > switch was. I just fired up the spare engine on the back and we kept on
> > going. This business of having two engines one in front and one in back,
> > is really a safety factor. If one quits, the other is right back there
> > ready to go. Maybe all airplanes should have two engines. You might
> > suggest this and get an award (we could split the cash).
> >
> > As pilot in command I take my responsibilities very seriously. It was
> > apparent that I would have to go down lower and keep a sharp eye in such
> > bad weather. I was glad that my neighbor was asleep because it wasPretty
> > dark under the cloud, and if it hadn't been for the lightning flashes it
> > would have been hard to read the road signs through the ice on the
> > windshield. The landing lights were not very bright either, You would
> > think they would have melted the ice that covered them but they didn't.
> > Several cars ran off the road when we passed, and you can sure see what
> > they mean about flying being a lot safer than driving.
> >
> > To make a long story short, I finally spotted Tinker Air Force Base, and
> > since we were already late for cocktails and dinner, I decided to land
> > there. It being an Air Force base, I knew it had plenty of runway, and
> > I could already see a red colored light in the control tower so I knew
> > they were still celebrating Christmas and we were welcome.
> >
> > Somebody told me that you can always talk to these military people on
> > the international emergency frequency, so I tried it, but you wouldn't
> > believe the language I heard. Those people ought to be straightened out
> > by somebody, and I would like to complain as a taxpayer. Evidently they
> > were expecting somebody to come in and land, because they kept talking
> > about clearing the airspace for some damn stupid incompetent SOB up in
> > the clouds. I wanted to be helpful so I landed on the taxiway to be out
> > of the way in case that other fellow needed the runway. A lot of people
> > Came running out waving at us. It was pretty evident that they had never
> > seen a Skymaster land on a taxiway before. That General with the nasty
> > temper was real mad about something. I tried to explain to him in a
> > reasonable manner that I didn't think the tower operator should be
> > swearing at that guy up there, but his face was so red that I think he
> > must have a drinking problem. Well, that's about all. After you two FAA
> > inspectors left, the weather got really bad so I got one of the Air
> > Force guys to drive me to where I could rent a car to drive back home. I
> > never did get my steak and drinks. My neighbor stayed at the hospital
> > there in Oklahoma City. He can't write you a letter just yet because
> > he's still not awake. Poor fellow, he must have the flu, or something.
> > Let me know it you need anything else, and by the way, send my new
> > pilot's license airmail special delivery.
> >
> > Very truly yours, Thurman J. Mudbojne, M.D.
> >
> > ----------
> >
> >
> > Happy Holidays! :)
> >
> > --
> > Gary Brown
> > LONG-EZ N4LZ (reserved)
> > http://www.thebrownhouse.org/longez/
> > gary(at)thebrownhouse.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <Scott.Wilder(at)sf.frb.org> |
| Subject: | anybody etching w/sodium hydroxide? |
As some of you know alumiprep is quite expensive, I have been exploring the
use of sodium hydroxide flakes or beads to etch with, it is available from
chemical outlets for about $ .50 to $1.00 a pound, quite cheap. Anybody
have comments or suggestions for a cheaper etching medium? How will I know
if the concentration is too strong? How long will it hold its etching
power?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: certifiable engine |
Any A&P probably can do it. Might take a sign off by an IA.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Gunn" <ggunn(at)uswest.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2000 1:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: certifiable engine
>
> Can a Lycoming engine with no logs be re-certified by overhauling it with
> serviceable parts or would
> it have to be done by the manufacture.
>
> Thanks,
> Gary Gunn
> RV-6 ( wing tanks)
> (starting to think about a engine)
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Graham Jones" <gratech(at)a1.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: drilling holes |
My 2 cents on drilling:
> * as another RVer suggested, use a center punch with a hammer to.....
I agree with everything Scott said with the addition that I recommend using
a NOXON punch you can get from Avery (I'm in Australia so I can't tell where
else might have them in the US). It is the best thing I've found for marking
the point to drill.
Just put it where you want the mark, pull the top back and let go. There are
two ends with different types of marking points, the split is offset so that
there is
a small end to make lighter marks and a large end for heavy marks.
I 've got a full set of center punches, a push-to-mark automatic punch my
father made, and a million nails () but the NOXON is in the pocket of
the overalls next to the Sharpie pen and six inch ruler.
Graham Jones
Kilmore, Australia
RV6A (inventorying my Christmas present...
One (finished) Empennage, Two Wings, One Fuse.....Yippee!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PILOT8127(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: flying in snowy weather |
Hi Bob,
I've used ski's on my '3' for years!
1. Take the wheel pants off and re-install upside down.
2. Disconnect brake lines. They are of no use on snow/ice.
3. remove tailwheel and mount a used sled runner shortened to 11 inches. No
more. No less. (welding is best)
Wa La !! winterized RV flying! enjoy!
heh,heh
Gary (aka AJ)
INDY RVs flyout-director
(you only need one seat)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: For Sale - ElectroAir Electronic Ignition |
Bryan do you mind telling me why you are selling this? Bob Murphy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Todd" <motodd(at)pol.net> |
| Subject: | Re: VG downside question-manuevering speed |
Jim is correct that the manuevering speed will be lowered by the use of
VG's. After all, the manuevering speed is just a derived number based on
the theoretical stall speed at six G's (at aerobatic gross weight). As I
reported in my posting of 11/29/99 (which I can't find in the archives for
some reason, or my original lengthy 'VG pirep' of 11/28/99 for that matter),
the calculated maneuvering speed for my RV4 fell from 117 knots to 102 knots
with the application of VG's.
As far as this being a downside, I'd humbly suggest that it's pretty much a
theoretical concern only. Just like most airplanes, we spend the vast
majority of flight time above the maneuvering speed anyway. The 'downside'
of, say, spending 97 vs 95% of a flight above maneuvering speed probably
doesn't begin to offset the substantial improvements in slow flight
characteristics seen with VG's.
As I've had it taught to me, maneuvering speed is not a magic number. It's
a derived value that has proven useful is gauging how strong an airplane is.
You can certainly break an airplane below maneuving speed. Anyone who's
done snap rolls and paid attention to entry airspeeds and G meters (a
positive survival trait) will attest to the fact that there is an
approximately 50% dynamic overshoot in G loading with abrupt increases in
angle of attack. For example, entering a snap roll at twice the 1 G stall
speed will yield a peak G meter reading of around 5.5 G's or more, not the 4
G's that would theoretically apply. I'm told that's why using two times the
1 G stall speed as the absolute MAXIMUM snap entry speed is a useful rule of
thumb (assuming you're flying a +6 G acro plane).
This is just a longwinded way of saying what many others have pointed out
before: Most of the time, we can break our airplanes if we get stupid with
the controls. Don't put too much faith in 'maneuvering speeds.'
Those of us interested in measuring the effects of VG's on RV's owe Terry
Jantzi a real debt of gratitude. My guess-timate of a five knot reduction
in 1 G stall speed with VG's (at 1445#) was based on the somewhat arbitrary
fitting of an airspeed calibration curve derived from accelerated stall
data. Terry is in the process of gathering data that will probably be the
most accurate information we're likely to get in RV's. This represents a
substantial investment of time and energy (and avgas) on Terry's part. I
can hardly wait to see his results.
Mark
From: LeastDrag93066(at)AOL.COM
Subject: RV-List: VG downside question
If the VG decreases the clean configuration stall speed from 55 mph ias to
44
mph ias, this would change the maneuvering speed from 135 mph ias to 108 mph
ias.
Where the maneuvering speed is calculated as the square root of 6 (2.45)
times the stall speed.
I didn't see this mentioned in the VG thread, but I might have missed seeing
it.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cathy Vetterman" <vetxaust(at)gwtc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: exhaust article on 4(6)-1 collectors 26 Dec2000 09:38:15 |
-0700
Jim, there is a big difference in exhaust systems, don't be mis informed
about all the hype that is out there. If there was an exhaust that would
truely give 25 to 30 percent more HP I would manufacture it. If Lycoming
would change the firing order of the 320 and 360 we could do some great
things. How about some intake changes:::::: you can't improve on what goes
out if it is horrible going in. Vetterman Exhaust
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Baker <bakerje(at)kfalls.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2000 6:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: exhaust article on 4(6)-1 collectors 26 Dec2000
>
> There certainly a lot of opinions about exhaust systems. For the majority
of
> our applications, turning 2700 rpm, I don't believe there will be any gain
> in horse power by using a two into one or four into one or for that matter
a
> so called tuned exhaust system. For our low rpm engines I think most will
> find the shorter or should I say the straightest pipes will work the best.
> The tuned exhaust show there most benefit when you are turning above 5000
> rpm. I believe the most horse power can be achieved by a balanced and blue
> printed rebuild with a touch of flow work on the intake and exhaust valves
> and seats. Or if you have the room how about a turbo charger?
>
> My own humble opinion.
> Jim Baker
> RV-4 N513J
> Vetterman's 4 pipe system on a O-320-H2AD
>
> do not achive
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: Van's response on reaming |
The Wing was drilled and reamed accurately in a jig to get correct
dihederal and incident. If you do it right with bullet shaped bolts it
will go togather nicely .I only made this suggestion hoping it would
help someone with limited experience.The gentleman who wrote who am I to
make such a suggestion? I am a retired Machinist and I am happy to try
to help most anyone. Bob Murphy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VG downside question-manuevering speed |
Mark Todd wrote:
>
snips
>
> Those of us interested in measuring the effects of VG's on RV's owe Terry
> Jantzi a real debt of gratitude. My guess-timate of a five knot reduction
> in 1 G stall speed with VG's (at 1445#) was based on the somewhat arbitrary
> fitting of an airspeed calibration curve derived from accelerated stall
> data. Terry is in the process of gathering data that will probably be the
> most accurate information we're likely to get in RV's. This represents a
> substantial investment of time and energy (and avgas) on Terry's part. I
> can hardly wait to see his results.
>
> Mark
>
What are the chances of getting one of these planes into the hands of
the CAFE test folks?
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: exhaust article on 4(6)-1 collectors 26 Dec2000 09:38:15 |
-0700
How would changing the firing order improve the engine? I can understand
improving the intake system for more power but the firing order?
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cathy Vetterman" <vetxaust(at)gwtc.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2000 7:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: exhaust article on 4(6)-1 collectors 26 Dec2000
>
> Jim, there is a big difference in exhaust systems, don't be mis informed
> about all the hype that is out there. If there was an exhaust that would
> truely give 25 to 30 percent more HP I would manufacture it. If Lycoming
> would change the firing order of the 320 and 360 we could do some great
> things. How about some intake changes:::::: you can't improve on what
goes
> out if it is horrible going in. Vetterman Exhaust
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Baker <bakerje(at)kfalls.net>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2000 6:45 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: exhaust article on 4(6)-1 collectors 26 Dec2000
>
>
> >
> > There certainly a lot of opinions about exhaust systems. For the
majority
> of
> > our applications, turning 2700 rpm, I don't believe there will be any
gain
> > in horse power by using a two into one or four into one or for that
matter
> a
> > so called tuned exhaust system. For our low rpm engines I think most
will
> > find the shorter or should I say the straightest pipes will work the
best.
> > The tuned exhaust show there most benefit when you are turning above
5000
> > rpm. I believe the most horse power can be achieved by a balanced and
blue
> > printed rebuild with a touch of flow work on the intake and exhaust
valves
> > and seats. Or if you have the room how about a turbo charger?
> >
> > My own humble opinion.
> > Jim Baker
> > RV-4 N513J
> > Vetterman's 4 pipe system on a O-320-H2AD
> >
> > do not achive
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | exhaust article on 4(6)-1 collectors 26 Dec2000 09:38:15 |
-0700
Has to do with the scavenging effects on neighboring cylinders and exhaust
pulse length and timing etc. The firing order can be changed to some degree
via a changed cam grind but for a radical change, especially on a 4 cyl
engine, the crank throws would also have to be changed. That means a major
design change.
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Cy Galley
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2000 6:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: exhaust article on 4(6)-1 collectors 26 Dec2000
How would changing the firing order improve the engine? I can understand
improving the intake system for more power but the firing order?
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cathy Vetterman" <vetxaust(at)gwtc.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2000 7:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: exhaust article on 4(6)-1 collectors 26 Dec2000
>
> Jim, there is a big difference in exhaust systems, don't be mis informed
> about all the hype that is out there. If there was an exhaust that would
> truely give 25 to 30 percent more HP I would manufacture it. If Lycoming
> would change the firing order of the 320 and 360 we could do some great
> things. How about some intake changes:::::: you can't improve on what
goes
> out if it is horrible going in. Vetterman Exhaust
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Baker <bakerje(at)kfalls.net>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2000 6:45 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: exhaust article on 4(6)-1 collectors 26 Dec2000
>
>
> >
> > There certainly a lot of opinions about exhaust systems. For the
majority
> of
> > our applications, turning 2700 rpm, I don't believe there will be any
gain
> > in horse power by using a two into one or four into one or for that
matter
> a
> > so called tuned exhaust system. For our low rpm engines I think most
will
> > find the shorter or should I say the straightest pipes will work the
best.
> > The tuned exhaust show there most benefit when you are turning above
5000
> > rpm. I believe the most horse power can be achieved by a balanced and
blue
> > printed rebuild with a touch of flow work on the intake and exhaust
valves
> > and seats. Or if you have the room how about a turbo charger?
> >
> > My own humble opinion.
> > Jim Baker
> > RV-4 N513J
> > Vetterman's 4 pipe system on a O-320-H2AD
> >
> > do not achive
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Rivets size for horizontal satb skin... |
In a message dated 12/27/00 8:54:08 PM Central Standard Time,
dani_estrada(at)infosel.net.mx writes:
<< As per de plans, Va's says that I must use a 426-AD3-3.5 rivet size, but I
only have AD3-3, AD3-4 and AD3-5.....what can I do..? >>
Hi Daniel,
I got a whole bunch of AN426 AS3-3.5 rivets with my empennage kit. Maybe
Van's forgot to pack them in the kit for you. I would call them and ask.
You will need them for the vertical stab as well so I would get them. On my
kit they were the correct size needed.
Good Luck,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: certifiable engine |
Gary,
In order to recertificate it without logs you would have to either know what
the total time since new is or have it re-manufactured. If you do know what
the total time since new (TTSN) is then any A&P or IA can do it.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
RV-8A N809RS
12.9 Hours
>From: Gary Gunn <ggunn(at)uswest.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: certifiable engine
>Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 12:59:09 -0700
>
>
>Can a Lycoming engine with no logs be re-certified by overhauling it with
>serviceable parts or would
>it have to be done by the manufacture.
>
>Thanks,
>Gary Gunn
>RV-6 ( wing tanks)
>(starting to think about a engine)
>
>
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: For Sale - ElectroAir Electronic Ignition |
In a message dated 12/27/00 4:01:48 PM Pacific Standard Time,
RVPilot4(at)webtv.net writes:
<< Bryan do you mind telling me why you are selling this? >>
BTW, Walter Treadwell (P-38 replica) also has two ElectroAir DPUs for sale,
less a few bits and pieces. If you are interested, call Walter at
925-443-7301
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Richardson" <kpd_307(at)hotmail.com> |
Fellow listers,
Just wanted to pass on some information that may be of use. A few weeks
ago, I was at a hamfest here in Indiana, and had the opportunity to speak
with the Icom representative. At that time, he stated to me that I didn't
hear it from him, but that Icom was going to TSO their panel mount com. He
also correctly surmised that this would mean an increase in price due to
certification costs, and suggested that anyone planning on installing their
unit in an application not requiring certification or TSO'd status purchase
the unit before. If I remember right, he said they were planning
certification some time in January. FWIW I hope this helps someone save
some hard earned cash.
Greg
RV-9A Emp.
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
| Subject: | RV-6 Empennage Wanted |
All--
Looking for an RV-6 empennage kit. Any out there? Contact 941-966-6015
or bcbraem(at)home.com
Boyd Braem
Osprey(Sarasota), FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | For Sale - ElectroAir Electronic Ignition |
Thanks for the inquiries, but I have already made a deal with someone. As
for the question of why I'm selling mine, it has to do with need for the
electronic ignition versus need for the cash. The system worked exactly as
advertised. Jeff Rose was very helpful on the phone. I bought the system
because of an oil related, plug fouling problem. I've since solved the oil
problem and would rather run dual mags - just my choice, no reflection on
the product. Jim, regarding the differences between the O-320 and O-360. I
have an O-302 w/ Bendix S4LN-20 series mags... the mounting pad should be
the same as your -360.
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ ~58-hrs
Pearland, Texas
-----Original Message-----
From: jim jewell [mailto:jjewell(at)okanagan.net]
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2000 1:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: For Sale - ElectroAir Electronic Ignition
Hello Bryan,
Is the ignition system still for sale? If so what is the asking price?
I've been considering the Jeff Rose system for my 0-360-A1A,
is there a significant difference between the 0-360 and 0-320 applications.
Lastly What is your reason for selling?
Jim In Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: Jones, Bryan D. <bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2000 7:54 AM
Subject: RV-List: For Sale - ElectroAir Electronic Ignition
<bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
>
> For Sale - 4-cylinder Jeff Rose/ElectroAir ignition system (single unit).
> With plug wires (for O-320), magneto pad timing pickup and aprox. 10 hrs
of
> use. The unit works perfectly. Anyone seriously interested, please
inquire
> off the list. Thanks.
>
> Bryan Jones -8 765BJ ~58-hrs
> Pearland, Texas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | RE: [BostonRVBuilders] A meeting of like minds |
To all on the RV list, this is the announcement of the formation of a new
wing of the Vans Airforce. Ken Balch suggested we call it the New England
Wing, it has a nice ring to it.
I agree with Bruce, Let's use this E-group for the NE Vans Airforce Wing
info. I'll get the word out to the guys I know who may not be using this
E-group yet. (So What's another mailing list?)
To further review what we talked about:
The main idea behind a wing is to have a mutual support group, especially
for those still building. If we're doing the right things in the Wing, we'll
generate high interest and it won't die when the original group is finished
building and flying because a new set of builders will keep it going. (Along
with some of us who can't help but stick our noses in other people's
projects).
We're already planning the next meeting. It will be in February at Ray
Grenier's shop in Nashua to take a look (not too close, though :
) ) at his
RV4 project. He'll also demonstrate his experimental gyro stabilizing wing
incidence measurement tool.
We'd also like some input on putting on a forum/fly-in sometime in the
spring. There's nothing in the New England area that we could think of
that's being done for RVs right now.
More Later,
Bob
RV8 #423
-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Meacham [mailto:bruceme(at)seanet.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2000 10:56 PM
Subject: [BostonRVBuilders] A meeting of like minds
If there was a consensous to our rambling banter on RVs, flying and
building, it was that we all wanted more momentum. We recognised
that we had critical mass for a good supportive group of folks who
could assist helping one another build aircraft.
And to that effect I am going to start a web page for the group. I'm
also going to register our site as a Vans Airforce Wing and on the
World Wide Wing. This is not for any formal reason, but simply to
provide more traffic and better recognition among varied flying
communities.
That said, if you have any specific items you'd like to see in a
Northeast Vans Air Force Wing website, let me know. I'd also like to
see a logo (anyone, anyone, Bueller)
I'll be posting a rough draft shortly for review. Lastly, I need to
collect a list of members. If you'd like to be a member in the
Northeast Wing, let me know directly (bruceme(at)exmsft.com). In the
future this egroup is as good a forum as any for us to continue our
ongoing discussions as a Wing.
Bruce Meacham
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: heat gun / fiberglass |
12/28/2000 12:19:09
The cracking is probably the mold release agent or gel coat. There may or
may not be stressing of the underneith F/G that caused these cracks. Don't
forget that the heat of the engine, once flying, will heat up the area and
if the F/G has some "memory" left to it, the F/G might wonder back toward
the orginal shape.....What little F/G bending I did was with a torpedo
kerosene heater,to get the F/G up to the temp of transisition, and applied
some pressure to reshape the piece. I had good luck because the three #10
screws that hold the cowl together at the nose was where I needed the F/G
re-shaping.The Screws that are allways there when the cowl gets heated up
in the sun & with engine heat keeps the "heat bend" I did in place...
Others havn't faired as well do the area(s) that they heated. I think this
was a "luck area" rather then a "skill area" in my case....
"Larry Pardue"
To:
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: Re: RV-List: heat
gun / fiberglass
ronics.com
12/26/2000 04:44 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
>
>dear listers
>i need input , has anyone used a heat gun to straighten a fiberglass
cowel?
i
>have about 1/2 warp on the front of the cowel where the air inters the
left
>side. i can pull it by hand to make it match up, but when it is let go it
>returns to the same posistion.
>any help?
Scott,
I used a heat gun to straighten this area, per builder manual instructions.
It is effective, but now that area is cracking through the paint. I don't
know what an alternative might be though.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: For Sale - ElectroAir Electronic Ignition |
Why sell when Jeff Rose will refund your money? At least he did so for me
when I got tired of chasing gremlins...
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Slider Canopy Installation |
Howdy,
Can any of you RV-6 slider builders help me?
I am trying to install the Canopy Roll Bar (Wd-641) on a Quick Build.
The four spacers (C-668) that help secure the roll bar to the canopy
rail are provided. The problem is how to position and drill the two aft
spacers. There is so little working room inside of the canopy rail
(F-6113) that I cannot maneuver the spacers into position, much less
hold them for drilling.
Is there a simple way for these spacers to be positioned and drilled?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A QB, On the gear
San Antonio, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Young, Richard BGI SF" <Richard.Young(at)barclaysglobal.com> |
"'rv4-list(at)matronics.com'"
| Subject: | Looking for an RV-4 |
I am sure you have seen these posts in the past, but please bear with me.
Recently my wife agreed to let me move forward and purchase an RV-4. I have
found an experienced builder who I will most likely use to help me through
the process. Time will not allow me to build my own (nor would I trust
myself). I am a pilot not a builder and I can live with that.
Here is what I am looking for
Must have:
150+ hp;
Stage 3 engine mounts
Chromemoly aileron and rudder stiffeners
Would like (but not a deal breaker)
Dual controls
Full swivel tail wheel
Long gear
I would prefer a west coast plane as that will make the buying process
easier, but that is not in stone. I do not want any real exotic
modifications such as retractable gear. The simpler the better.
All responses are appreciated
Rick Young
Sacramento CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | electronic ignition |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: For Sale - ElectroAir Electronic Ignition
Thread-Index: AcBw5ryITTyG7X75TSqRtrNoZbF5AQAAE4xg
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
I have the electroair ignition, which replaced the right S4LN-20 mag. I
really like the system. There are no traces of oil on the plugs (they
were fouling slightly before), my EGT's are hotter, fuel consumption has
dropped at least .5 gal/hr, probably mostly due to the fact that I can
lean more aggressively. With the system I can lean to roughness running
24 square burning 8.8 gal/hr at 3000 ft, around 9.3 gal/hr running a
little richer to eliminate roughness at the same altitude. I've learned
that leaning to peak EGT on a carbureted engine is a crapshoot, but I do
see it peaking around 1520 on the #3 cylinder. The engine runs
smoother, but I haven't noticed a lot of benefit during starting. I'm
running the Autolite 386 plugs on the bottoms (the Elecroair runs the
bottom plugs) and don't think the flame propagation is as good as the
37BY's the mag runs on top. I'm planning to switch back to the
REM37BY's which are really good plugs and hopefully this will help
starting a bit. They have a very long reach and it is my understanding
that these plugs were designed to eliminate lead fouling problems in
O-235's. I've had it kick back on me twice with the battery low, Jeff
says that is a common problem having to do with the skytech starter's
above normal current draw. Lately I've been turning it off with the
weather being cold, but I never had this problem when it was warm
outside and the engine was easy to crank.
Jeff's support is excellent; during the install I had a dead timing unit
(the part that replaces the mag) and I called him on a Sunday afternoon,
and he gladly helped me troubleshoot over the phone. Had a replacement
by Tuesday morning.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 64 hours
The system
> worked exactly as
> advertised. Jeff Rose was very helpful on the phone. I
> bought the system
> because of an oil related, plug fouling problem. I've since
> solved the oil
> problem and would rather run dual mags - just my choice, no
> reflection on
> the product.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon Robertson <gordon(at)safemail.com> |
| Subject: | Size DOES matter |
To (unsigned)
I am the same size as you. I went to Portland and test-flew in the
RV8. It fits me fine, both front and back seats. Like you, I dont
like to be squashed in. The RV-4 would definitely be too small for
you, especially for a similar-sized person in the back.
Gordon__
From: <s6es116(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Size DOES matter
Please pardon the simplicity of this question (I'm
obviously an RV newbie here):
At 6'4"/220lbs, which RV models (if any) am I most
likely to comfortably fit in? Cockpit size has always
been the #1 airplane disqualifier for me.
I intend to purchase a used RV rather than build one
(I am fully cognizant of my limitations; I am QUITE
CERTAIN that I possess neither the skill nor the
patience to build. You gentlemen that DO are a
special breed).
So, will I fit into a -4 or should I only be looking
for an -8 (I prefer tandem seating)?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 Cowling instalation question |
This may have been mentioned but,
An easy way to cut the rear of the cowl (or any hidden cut line) to fit is;
1) first lay one inch wide tape along the edge you wish to match
2) secure the cowl in desired position
3) then use a one inch wide rule as a displacement guide to initially
transfer cut line to cowl
3) rough cut with extra margin and file to fit
MikeWilson, RV-4 / AIO-360
-----Original Message-----
From: pcondon(at)csc.com [mailto:pcondon(at)csc.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Cowling instalation question
Also, when trimming the REAR part of the cowl..........that line you make
so that you fit the top hinge....when you cut that top cowl at that
point-------it isn't a straight line nor a obvious curve for that matter.
Make many measure points and connect the dots to form your trim line.
Simply eyeballing or using a straight edge to establish that trim line
won't do it.(Its actually easy then this warning implies.) I had to assist
two builders who didn't pay attention when they made those cuts.
"Jerry Carter" (at)matronics.com on 12/12/2000
05:20:44 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Cowling instalation question
>
> How do you install upper cowling on RV8 without constant speed prop
mounted
> on engine?
>
> Bill
>
Bill, the problem is that you will not know exactly where the aft spinner
bulkhead will be without first installing the prop. Some builders have had
to put spacers in to move the aft bulkhead further aft so that the prop
will
not strike it when at full "coarse" pitch. My Hartzell cleared it by about
1\8 inch without spacers, but others have not been so lucky. You want the
distance from the front of the cowl to the spinner to be at least 1\8" but
not more than about 3\8," so this does not leave you much to play with. In
addition, please note that the scribe line for trimming the Van's spinner
would have made my spinner too short had I trimmed it to this line, so
don't
do any sanding on it until you're sure it will extend over the aft spinner
bulkhead. I would not try to install the cowl without the prop installed.
You don't necessarily have to torque and safety the nuts, but I did because
the thing is such a pain to install that I don't want to take it off until
I absolutely have to.
Good luck,
Jerry Carter
8A, 0360 A1A, Hartzell HC-C2YK-1BF
Cowl inlet ramps and cooling baffles
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How SCFM or PSI...? |
In a message dated 12/28/00 10:29:03 AM Pacific Standard Time,
dani_estrada(at)infosel.net.mx writes:
<< how much SCFM or PSI will the 3x rivet gun needs to set right my rivets..?
>>
Daniel: I urge you to make up a few test samples and try setting the AD3
rivets with your 3X gun and your hose set-up before starting on the expensive
parts. Each set-up is going to be different depending on how long and what
size hoses you are using (unless you have a pressure regulator attached to or
right at the gun). My own 3X gun and hose set-up requires around 40 PSI at
the tank because of the long and small diameter hoses. Others seem to
require much less pressure with a 3X gun. Practice first, it may save you
some headaches. Just my $0.02.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
| Subject: | battery tray braces |
ok, now I'm pissed...
How did you all bend the little tab on the top of the battery tray braces?
I have made 3 now, and only 1 didn't break, but I'm not sure I want to use
it because I'm afraid a lot of vibration will make it break... What's the
trick? Anybody wanna make me some? :-)
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: How SCFM or PSI...? |
In a message dated 12/28/00 10:29:03 AM Pacific Standard Time,
dani_estrada(at)infosel.net.mx writes:
<< Hello, I'm ready to skin my horizontal stab and I want to know how much
SCFM
or PSI will the 3x rivet gun needs to set right my rivets. >>
SCFM (standard cubic feet per minute) is a measure of volume (of which the
rivet gun needs relatively little - as compared to something like spray
painting) and is not really an issue unless you are really fast at riveting
in rapid succession.
PSI (pounds per square inch) is a measure of pressure and is best tested with
scrap first. I find that I prefer three short bursts of the gun to set each
rivet for consistency and controllability so I set the regulator at the tank
to around 60 PSI. I have one of the flow controls (controls pressure, sort
of, by regulating flow) at the gun and adjust this to achieve the desired
pressure drop for the rivet diameter I'm working at the time.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: For Sale - ElectroAir Electronic Ignition |
12/28/2000 14:21:42
Can you write up a summary of the conditions & events that led up to your
decicion ??? There are plenty of us who are considering e-ignition and any
pros or cons are greatly appreciated........
SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM
Sent by: To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
owner-rv-list-server@mat cc:
ronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: For
Sale - ElectroAir Electronic
Ignition
12/28/2000 12:31 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
Why sell when Jeff Rose will refund your money? At least he did so for me
when I got tired of chasing gremlins...
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy Installation |
Charlie,
I simply drilled the hole through the rollover bar and into the fuse, then
took the bar off and held the spacer in place with my fingers and traced the
now drilled hole onto the spacer. Then took the spacer out and drilled
separately. This also allows you to center it better on the spacer. I
think other folks also have put a temporary rivit in to hold it and then
drilled. Its a bugger to get in that small space to work on those nuts
and spacers....
Kurt, OKC, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Chesteen" <bchesteen(at)planetc.com> |
| Subject: | ECG CHT switch (Automatic Controller Maybee?) |
I am playing around with the idea that I want to make a fancy controller
system for the Rocky Mount Engine
analyzer that I plan to put in my RV6a under construction.
The idea would be to replace the standard 4 position cylinder selector
switch with a STAMP microprocessor
controlled homebuilt device that would let you select which cyl you want to
monitor manualy or select an automatic
sequencing mode that would step through the cylinders. Also I would
include an LCD readout of what mode it is
in and what cyl is being monitored. I would guess that this could be put in
a very small package and take up little panel space.
What do you guys think, would anyone be interested in one?
Thanks!
Brian Chesteen
RV6A Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Slider Canopy Installation |
Charlie,
I drilled the roll bar & ledge first, taking care to miss the longeron. With
the roll bar removed I just held each spacer in position and marked it with
a sharpie. I drilled them on the bench and mounted nutplates (1/4 or 3/16
depending on bolt) to them. The nutplates make it really easy to install.
I've had the roll bar on and off multiple times and can't imagine fighting
the nut/washer/spacer combo. I also used a strip of nutplates for the track
attachment based on a tip from the list a long time ago. That also saved a
lot of hassle.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) wiring & systems
Howdy,
Can any of you RV-6 slider builders help me?
I am trying to install the Canopy Roll Bar (Wd-641) on a Quick Build.
The four spacers (C-668) that help secure the roll bar to the canopy
rail are provided. The problem is how to position and drill the two aft
spacers. There is so little working room inside of the canopy rail
(F-6113) that I cannot maneuver the spacers into position, much less
hold them for drilling.
Is there a simple way for these spacers to be positioned and drilled?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A QB, On the gear
San Antonio, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | For Sale - ElectroAir Electronic Ignition |
Here's the background on my electronic ignition experience...
Upon completion of my plane (first few flights) I realized that I was
burning oil at a high rate. Trying to find an easier solution than pulling
the cylinders, I decided to try the electronic ignition. An RV flier at my
field was up to speed on my problem and suggested the ElectoAir system. He
bought his because of lead and/or oil fouling and it helped him.
The ElectroAir EI system worked as advertised. The timing was a snap to
set. The engine ran and flew well on the first try. Following installation
of the system on a cross country, I had what I thought was an major
electrical problem. With what I thought was a crippled electrical system,
and only the battery charge to keep the EI system operating, I turned back.
After about 10 hrs of use, even though the engine was not showing the
fouling symptoms as much as before (I had the EI plugs in the bottom and mag
plugs in the top), I decided it was time to do something about the oil
problem. When I reassembled the engine, I put the mag back in the right
side - optimistic I had solved the oil problem and not wanting to be so
dependent on my plane's electrical system. The engine is burning little if
any oil and the mags have worked just fine during the last 20 or 30 hrs of
flying.
Yes, I do believe a properly designed electrical system can be extremely
reliable. I fly on airliners without hesitation. However, my plane doesn't
have a backup/dual power buss or other alternate system. This is the
biggest reason why I decided to go back to dual mags. Bendix now, maybe
Slicks someday, if necessary - maybe EI again if I ever improve my
electrical distribution system.
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ ~58-hrs
Pearland, Texas
-----Original Message-----
From: pcondon(at)csc.com [mailto:pcondon(at)csc.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2000 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: For Sale - ElectroAir Electronic Ignition
Can you write up a summary of the conditions & events that led up to your
decicion ??? There are plenty of us who are considering e-ignition and any
pros or cons are greatly appreciated........
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Installing Bolts in the Wing Spars |
12/28/2000 16:18:56
How are you ever going to get them (bolts) out? Assuming the chilling did
shrink the bolt, now you have a interference fit and almost impossible to
remove. Plus, I remember the smaller the item chilled the less
(porportional) shrinkage there is. For example the starter ring....you can
actually see the 1/4 inch gap when you freeze the pulley and bake the
ring.
"John B. Abell"
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: RV-List: Installing
Bolts in the Wing Spars
ronics.com
12/23/2000 01:25 AM
Please respond to
rv-list
I put my wing spar bolts in the freezer overnight before trying to
install them. I took them out with gloved hands and sprayed them with
some of that anti-corrosion agent and lubricant; I think it's called
LPS-3. Many went in simply by pushing them in by hand; others required
very little force with a hammer. It was surprisingly effective. In
general, I think reaming isn't a great idea.
Best wishes of the season,
Jack Abell
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ECG CHT switch (Automatic Controller Maybee?) |
Brian,
It's already been done. It's called the Grand Rapids Technology EIS4000. It
will monitor/display all 4 (or 6) EGT & CHT. As a side benefit it will also
replace the RMI Monitor unit:) I got mine with the pitot/static option and
am using it for ALL engine and flight data.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) wiring & systems
I am playing around with the idea that I want to make a fancy controller
system for the Rocky Mount Engine
analyzer that I plan to put in my RV6a under construction.
The idea would be to replace the standard 4 position cylinder selector
switch with a STAMP microprocessor
controlled homebuilt device that would let you select which cyl you want to
monitor manualy or select an automatic
sequencing mode that would step through the cylinders. Also I would
include an LCD readout of what mode it is
in and what cyl is being monitored. I would guess that this could be put in
a very small package and take up little panel space.
What do you guys think, would anyone be interested in one?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ECG CHT switch (Automatic Controller Maybee?) |
Hi Brian,
Please keep me/us posted
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Chesteen <bchesteen(at)planetc.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2000 12:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: ECG CHT switch (Automatic Controller Maybee?)
>
> I am playing around with the idea that I want to make a fancy controller
> system for the Rocky Mount Engine
> analyzer that I plan to put in my RV6a under construction.
>
> The idea would be to replace the standard 4 position cylinder selector
> switch with a STAMP microprocessor
> controlled homebuilt device that would let you select which cyl you want
to
> monitor manualy or select an automatic
> sequencing mode that would step through the cylinders. Also I would
> include an LCD readout of what mode it is
> in and what cyl is being monitored. I would guess that this could be put
in
> a very small package and take up little panel space.
>
> What do you guys think, would anyone be interested in one?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brian Chesteen
> RV6A Emp
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: For Sale - ElectroAir Electronic Ignition |
I have the Rose EI on my RV4.Althogh I had to replace the magnetic
pickup after 100+ hours the EI runs much smoother,stronger, and burns
less gas than mags.The RV6 I am bulding will most definately have EI on
it.Here in the Midwest(Poplar Grove ill.) I am seldom more than 5
minutes from an airport.My left mag will get me down even with complete
electrical failure.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <s6es116(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Size DOES matter - 1 more question |
My thanks to all RV-list subscribers for the
incredible response to my recent post. I had intended
to acknowledge all responders here, but the list is
MUCH too long. What a great bunch of people.
The consensus seems to be that the -4 is just "too
close to call" (has the election news media ruined
that phrase forever?) for someone of my size. Best
bets are placed on the -8, though all responders make
note of the fact that there are far too few finished
RV-8's for sale at this point and that those that are
go for BIG bucks. I've had quite a few praise the
merits of the -6 for cockpit size and, as I'm flying a
side-by-side now, I may just go that route after all
(again, I am strictly a buyer, NOT a builder).
Soooooo.....one last question. Where is the best
place to look for used RVs? Where am I going to find
the most current/thorough classified listing for RVs?
Thanks again for all the help!!
s6es116(at)yahoo.com
=====================================================
>
> Please pardon the simplicity of this question (I'm
> obviously an RV newbie here):
>
> At 6'4"/220lbs, which RV models (if any) am I most
> likely to comfortably fit in? Cockpit size has
> always
> been the #1 airplane disqualifier for me.
>
> I intend to purchase a used RV rather than build one
> (I am fully cognizant of my limitations; I am QUITE
> CERTAIN that I possess neither the skill nor the
> patience to build. You gentlemen that DO are a
> special breed).
>
> So, will I fit into a -4 or should I only be looking
> for an -8 (I prefer tandem seating)?
>
Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ECG CHT switch (Automatic Controller Maybee?) |
In a message dated 12/28/00 1:53:01 PM Pacific Standard Time,
gyoung@cs-sol.com writes:
<< Brian,
It's already been done. It's called the Grand Rapids Technology EIS4000. >>
I agree. After deliberating for several months over which engine and systems
monitor to use and looking carefully at what is available, I have arrived at
the same conclusion. Seems to me that you get the most useful functions with
the EIS4000 for several grand less than some alternatives. A ride in Tim
Lewis's -6A gave me my first close look at the EIS 4000. Tim is a strong
advocate. Some have complained that the EIS is appearance challenged (PC
speak for ugly) but I have found that it grows on you after you start playing
with panel layouts. Greg Toman at 616-583-8000 is very helpful in providing
information not available on their website or in their adds. FWIW. Contrary
views will be appreciated and respectfully considered.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation and other stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roger Embree <rembree(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Size DOES matter - 1 more question |
> My thanks to all RV-list subscribers for the
> incredible response to my recent post. I had intended ...
>
> ... Where is the best place to look for used RVs? Where am I going
> to find
> the most current/thorough classified listing for RVs?
>
>
Once source is barnstormers.com with occasional new listings.
http://www.barnstormers.com/ABC/ABC9900/tayl9900.html
RE
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8.. forward baggage compartment |
Yes, see it at www.rv-8.com/pgElectrical.htm. Haven't flown yet or computed
CG so can't comment on that. It absolutly makes for short wiring runs
however with very few firewall penetrations when combined with some of Mr.
Nuckoll's thinking on how to feed alternator current into the system.
Regards,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, painting
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2000 1:33 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV8.. forward baggage compartment
>
> Has anyone put their battery on the floor in the forward baggage
compartment
> instead of on the firewall?
>
> If so, what do you think?
>
> Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electronic ignition |
I'm
> running the Autolite 386 plugs on the bottoms (the Elecroair runs the
> bottom plugs)
Does this mean that you are running two different plugs at the same time ?
Does the elecroair just run the bottom plugs? or does it run one side bottom
and opposite site top?
Marcel de Ruiter
RV4/G-RVMJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: electronic ignition |
In a message dated 12/28/00 8:18:41 PM Eastern Standard Time,
marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com writes:
>
> I'm
> > running the Autolite 386 plugs on the bottoms (the Elecroair runs the
> > bottom plugs)
>
> Does this mean that you are running two different plugs at the same time ?
>
> Does the elecroair just run the bottom plugs? or does it run one side bottom
> and opposite site top?
>
> Marcel de Ruiter
> RV4/G-RVMJ
>
The instructions with the Electro-Air ignition suggest that if you have one
E.I. and one Mag, you use the E.I. on the bottom plugs and the Mag on the top
plugs. With the hotter spark from the E.I. and the larger plug gap, you're
less likely to get fouling on the bottom plugs which are most likely to foul.
One option with Jeff's system is whether you want to use automotive plugs or
aviation plugs. Jeff recommends the automotive plugs because you can gap
them much wider and take advantage of the hotter spark. Also, the automotive
plugs are about 1/10th the cost of aviation plugs.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
If the CAFE folks would test a RV with VG's with a positive result I would
certainly consider installing them, providing there would be a positive
attitude towards them from Van.
This of course would all be subject to approval of the PFA.
M de Ruiter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Storo" <ERSF2b(at)oregoncoast.com> |
| Subject: | VM1000 terminal blocks |
This is an update to the extra terminal block question. The source is
the Mouser Co. 800 346 6873.
They are 'Thomas and Betts'subminiature series. (page 179 of the #604
catalog). They come in 2,3,4,5,6,8,10,12 connectors from .74 to 4.52.
(4$1.49).
I have used them for 65 hours with no problems.
Ed Storo RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rv-List: a warning for RV-9A fuselage builders |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
Subject: RV-List: Re: Rv-List: a warning for RV-9A fuselage
builders(Rv-list use at Vans)
Hi Scott,
I wonder if by the same token, if this note was not brought to your
attention, how many more people would call Guss and there be a
misunderstanding on the same subject.
-
It is always a possiblity, but what if I was not occasionaly monitoring
the list and happen to see a thread that catches my attention (I don't
have time to read it all), then "hundreds" of people have the wrong
information and not even know it. Sometimes builders can be convinced
that a problem exists without even getting to that point in there project
and investigating it themself. I hear constantly...
"well, I read it on the RV List"!
-
I think it is a positive thing that
people post their questions to Van's on the list and the response.
-
I do also. I probably wasn't clear in my point.
Most of the time the snow ball gets rolling because of a question raised
by someone on the list and then all of the different responses cause such
a mixup that a flood of calls come in with people trying to find out what
is wrong with such and such, and Van's tech support was never in the
loop.
Believe it or not... some time (though not often of course :-) )
someone makes a mistake but is certian that the plans are wrong, or the
parts are wrong, or you name it. The person shouts it on the list, and
since he took the time to do so, then it must be so. Right?
Not always.
-
It could
save 25 phone calls to Vans by answering the question to all of us. I can
see
how the list frustrates the team at Van's , but they should also take
advantage of its goodness, i.e. mass communication!
-
I think the thought is that very often the mass misscommunication far
outweighs the the positive aspect.
( sorry this is so hard to read, I am subscribed to digest mode only so I
have no way to do a reply to single post)
Scott McDaniels
Aurora, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Heinrich Gerhardt" <hgerhardt(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV6-List: fuse jig available |
My RV-6 fuselage jig is now also available, and mine's in the LA area. The
jig is very accurate with jointed and planed lumber, and a nice adjustable
leg setup with 1/2" thick aluminum pads that can be bondo'ed to the floor.
It's 6" taller than what Van's suggests which makes it nice to sit inside
the "tub" when backdrilling and bucking. The front and rear uprights are
removable with keyed brackets, and the whole thing is two pieces with eight
legs for easy transport. Since Doug M. is charging $220 for his, that's
what I'll charge too. It's located at Torrance airport.
Heinrich Gerhardt
hgerhardt(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | Van's Alternator |
| From: | Gary Graham <beeb(at)teleport.com> |
I was recently asked to trouble shoot the charging system in a new RV-6A
configured with the 30/35 Amp kit that Van's AC sells. This was a Boss
Mount installation on an O-360 Lyc. 180HP.
The least effort was to have the alternator tested. (I happen to live near
the business that supplies these units to Van's) The alternator was bad
(killed diodes). I got a new unit under warrantee. I learned that I wasn't
the first with this mode of failure (which I knew 'cause I monitor the list
digests).
The detective works begins AND here are the findings without all the
scientific method:
1. The mounting bracket is anodized (Blue on this one) and is a near perfect
insulator. Except for minor scratches, produced when bolting the bracket to
the engine and bolting the alternator to the bracket, it provides Zero
ground return. The frame of the alternator is the big current ground return
and Must be grounded to the engine as is the starter motor. The minor
scratches soon corrode and become insulators. I chose to run a heavy (#6)
ground strap from the frame of the alternator to the frame of the starter
using plated aviation grade connectors with 5/16ths holes clamped by the
respective pivot and mounting bolts. I could have removed the bracket and
removed an appropriate amount of anodizing from it; alodined and or coated
with silicone grease; and then remounted and safetied, but the ground strap
was easier and a more resilient method' in my opinion.
2. Heat kills alternators and they make heat when they work. So does the
engine. These units have the fans removed. They also have a closed frame
around the stator. The standard blast tube helps,
but..............................
3. The good news is that Van's has engineered an excellent cooling shroud
that provides pressure air through the alternator. The bad news is that
they have not put it into production yet even though it is tooled and
tested. The good guys in engineering gave me one of the prototypes to field
test. In my opinion this is a Must Have item for this alternator. I will
beg them to make it available, however, as an owner of a famous kit plane
company once told me. "That and a buck might get me a cup of Coffee"
Pressure from the voters (call/e-mail engineering) may be required.
4. We tested the new unit on the ground at greater than max output load for
10 minutes (no cooling other than 40 deg. ambient) and it performed fine.
However, I don't recommend running any alternator at max for "normal
operations".
Blue skies, Gary
RV-4 FB, O-320. Wood
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: battery tray braces |
Bill - don't bend them - use a piece of angle stock
Douglas G. Murray RV-6
Southern Alberta
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2000 11:50 AM
Subject: RV-List: battery tray braces
>
> ok, now I'm pissed...
>
> How did you all bend the little tab on the top of the battery tray braces?
> I have made 3 now, and only 1 didn't break, but I'm not sure I want to use
> it because I'm afraid a lot of vibration will make it break... What's the
> trick? Anybody wanna make me some? :-)
>
> -Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Hicks <EdHicks(at)compuserve.com> |
Hi Listers,
Greg Richardson wrote>>
A few weeks ago, I was at a hamfest here in Indiana, and had the
opportunity to speak
with the Icom representative. At that time, he stated to me that I didn't
hear it from him, but that Icom was going to TSO their panel mount com.....
this would mean an increase in price due to certification costs, and
suggested that anyone planning on installing their
unit in an application not requiring certification or TSO'd status purchase
the unit before.<<
If you're refering to the IC A200 panel mount 760 radio, all the avionics
reps I have spoken to have told me that this unit is now a discontinued
item, which is a pity as it seemed like a nice unit. I was considering it
for my -6.
The good side to this is I went looking for alternatives and found a
supplier for the MicroAir 760 2&1/4" comm, who also told me if I can wait
until Spring next year, I'll be able to get a matching Microair transponder
too.
Best wishes for 2001,
Ed Hicks.
RV-6 QB G-BZRV
Bristol, UK.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rpflanze(at)iquest.net |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Alternator |
That was great info Gary. Thanks for posting that to the List.
I would also suggest an alternative. Forget Van's inexpensive alternator and
buy one of B & C's fine alternators. It bolts right on, is super heavy duty
and super built, and works easily with electric Bob's over voltage relay. It
will probably be the only alternator you'll ever buy for your bird.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (110 hours)
>
>3. The good news is that Van's has engineered an excellent cooling shroud
>that provides pressure air through the alternator. The bad news is that
>they have not put it into production yet even though it is tooled and
>tested. The good guys in engineering gave me one of the prototypes to field
>test. In my opinion this is a Must Have item for this alternator. I will
>beg them to make it available, however, as an owner of a famous kit plane
>company once told me. "That and a buck might get me a cup of Coffee"
>Pressure from the voters (call/e-mail engineering) may be required.
>
>4. We tested the new unit on the ground at greater than max output load for
>10 minutes (no cooling other than 40 deg. ambient) and it performed fine.
>However, I don't recommend running any alternator at max for "normal
>operations".
>
>Blue skies, Gary
>RV-4 FB, O-320. Wood
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Here are the addresses you wanted:
Van's Aircraft, Inc. - RV Aircraft Series
The RV White Pages
Just click on the underlined part and you should go right to the site.
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Hodgkins" <Stan(at)barkers34.swinternet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] battery tray braces |
Hi Bill
I had the same problem a few months ago - the first one turned out fine but
then I tried to make the second from a different piece of angle and it
snapped like a carrot - twice!
On closer inspection the metal seemed to be a very slightly different
colour, sort of whiter. Anyway I rejected that piece of stock and got
another piece from another builder close by. That bent easily.
I got on to Vans and they said they had never heard of another case but
could I send them a sample piece, which I did. The never got back to me but
when I rang them later they said that it was brittle but was ok to use if it
wasn't bent. Anyway I binned it and I think that it was a different
temper - after all Vans angle is not aircraft certified stock just regular
commercial angle. I'm glad my longerons weren't made of that stuff.
Hope this helps - maybe your kit was shipped at the sme time as mine- Oct
97?
Stan
80362
All wing & tail bits finished, fuselage 2/3 done - everything on hold while
I sort out the new house!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: 28 December 2000 18:50
Subject: [rv8list] battery tray braces
> ok, now I'm pissed...
>
> How did you all bend the little tab on the top of the battery tray braces?
> I have made 3 now, and only 1 didn't break, but I'm not sure I want to use
> it because I'm afraid a lot of vibration will make it break... What's the
> trick? Anybody wanna make me some? :-)
>
> -Bill
>
>
> -------------------------- eGroups Sponsor -------------------------~-~>
> eLerts
> It's Easy. It's Fun. Best of All, it's Free!
> http://click.egroups.com/1/9699/0/_/607743/_/978029434/
>
> Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
>
> IF YOU WISH TO UNSUBSCRIBE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO :
>
> rv8list-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Rv-list use at Vans |
Scott,
We certainly appreciate your monitoring the RV-list. However, if Van's wants
to limit misinformation that gets propagated by the list, why doesn't Van's
website have a section devoted to drawing/manual updates?
For example, Ken Krueger made a change to one of the RV-9 wing drawings in
September after I pointed out an error. Unless other builders were
monitoring the RV-list, they still wouldn't know about it and will end up
drilling out several rivets on the finished wing and having to countersink
nicely primed parts. I'm not saying that the fix is difficult, just that it
would be unnecessary if builders could check for updates on Van's website.
BTW, I talked to Van about this at Oshkosh and he said that he was aware of
the need and that plans and manual updates would eventually be added to the
website. Is there any schedule for implementing this?
Chris Heitman
RV-9A
For details on the drawing change mentioned above:
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/corrections.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <marcuscooper(at)team100.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VG downside question-manuevering speed |
Thought I would add some thoughts on maneuvering speed as it was a very big
issue in my previous life flying fighters. It's not really a measure of how
strong an airplane is as it is derived from stall speed and the G limit as
you've indicated. Most people look at how strong an airplane is by how many
Gs it can handle, not the fact that it can get there at faster or slower
speeds. One thing to note, however, is that maneuvering speed and the G
limit is based on Gs applied only in pitch. Your discussion of snap rolls
resulting in higher G is correct but it is due to rolling Gs not a straight
pull. The max G you see posted on airplanes is actually based on a pure
straight pull with no rolling applied. As soon as you start rolling, part
of the airplane is under more G than the G meter indicates. Most people
disregard this, but many fighters actually have 2 G limits, straight and
rolling Gs. With this in mind, maneuvering speed actually is a useful
number for several reasons. Test pilots use it to establish the exact G by
first setting the speed that will equal that G available. It's also a good
number for turbulence, as now the airplane will stall before breaking. In
the fighter world, it's key as it will give you your quickest, tightest turn
possible.
Marcus
RV-6 #2 in progress
>
> As I've had it taught to me, maneuvering speed is not a magic number.
It's
> a derived value that has proven useful is gauging how strong an airplane
is.
> You can certainly break an airplane below maneuving speed. Anyone who's
> done snap rolls and paid attention to entry airspeeds and G meters (a
> positive survival trait) will attest to the fact that there is an
> approximately 50% dynamic overshoot in G loading with abrupt increases in
> angle of attack. For example, entering a snap roll at twice the 1 G stall
> speed will yield a peak G meter reading of around 5.5 G's or more, not the
4
> G's that would theoretically apply. I'm told that's why using two times
the
> 1 G stall speed as the absolute MAXIMUM snap entry speed is a useful rule
of
> thumb (assuming you're flying a +6 G acro plane).
>
> This is just a longwinded way of saying what many others have pointed out
> before: Most of the time, we can break our airplanes if we get stupid
with
> the controls. Don't put too much faith in 'maneuvering speeds.'
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry <bpote(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv-list use at Vans |
Chris, I too talked to someone at Van's last week, and they changed the
plans as we spoke. I asked the 'why not' question that you are asking.
He said that the loss of Jeremy put their web site way behind. He said
that they had to get an outsider to make changes to the site, at this
point. I suggested that a full timer might be required, but that would
help to cut down the number of phone calls they got, by getting the
information out. I believe they are working on it.
Barry RV9a wings
C J Heitman wrote:
>
>
> Scott,
>
> We certainly appreciate your monitoring the RV-list. However, if Van's wants
> to limit misinformation that gets propagated by the list, why doesn't Van's
> website have a section devoted to drawing/manual updates?
>
Is there any schedule for implementing this?
>
> Chris Heitman
> RV-9A
> For details on the drawing change mentioned above:
> http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/corrections.html
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Van's Alternator -> airframe ground |
> 1. The mounting bracket is anodized (Blue on this one) and is a near
perfect
> insulator. Except for minor scratches, produced when bolting the bracket
to
> the engine and bolting the alternator to the bracket, it provides Zero
> ground return. The frame of the alternator is the big current ground
return
> and Must be grounded to the engine as is the starter motor. The minor
> scratches soon corrode and become insulators. I chose to run a heavy (#6)
> ground strap from the frame of the alternator to the frame of the starter
> using plated aviation grade connectors with 5/16ths holes clamped by the
> respective pivot and mounting bolts. I could have removed the bracket and
> removed an appropriate amount of anodizing from it; alodined and or coated
> with silicone grease; and then remounted and safetied, but the ground
strap
> was easier and a more resilient method' in my opinion.
An excellent post on an alternator problem that also provides insight into
another topic: using the airframe for ground versus running ground wires.
There has been much debate on the list about whether to run ground wires
from electrical items in the wings back into the fuselage, or save the
weight and use the wing frame itself for ground. Having experience in the
world of car stereo where small amounts of resistance can be picked up using
an auto chassis for ground (measurable), which leads to ground loops and
noise in the system, I am a firm believer in the "single point ground"
theory. BTW, Bob Nuckolls also advocates single point ground, and in fact
sells a nice little solution for terminating your ground wires together at
the firewall.
Anyway, many of us have Phlogistan anodized spars. If Gary Graham
experienced this alternator ground problem with an anodized alternator
bracket, what do you think is happening with your wing spar ground path?
Seems to me that the addition of less than a pound's worth of wire is good
insurance.
FWIW,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, painting
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy Installation |
I made the spacers then put double sided tape on them and washer and nut.
Then, I attached these to a long threaded rod and pulled them into place
which the tape held them in.
Sorry for the funky english and any possible mis-remembering.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: Size DOES matter - 1 more question |
I am 6ft.2 and weigh 220 and fit in the RV4 OK,but front seat only.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | RV6-A-QB Pitot Routing |
List: Just finished installing a Gretz Heated Pitot in my Quickbuild and
would really like to say what a nice kit Warren puts together. The
instructions were very good and installation was easy even in a Quickbuild
Wing.
Now the downside! How does one route the 1\4 in. aluminum pitot tube
per the plans? I can get the tube between the wing spar and fuel tank but
can't seem to figure out how to secure the tube running between the spar and
tank??
Onto more cold weather work the fuel lines and gear.
Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon Giger <giger(at)bmi.net> |
| Subject: | aileron bellcrank overcenter? |
With the ailerons hooked up on my 6-a,they feel nice and free on
the control stick.however,when lifting them from the down position by hand
they feel sticky the first inch.it is not in the hinges,it has to be that
the bellcrank is going over center.now if i adjust the torque tube to cure
it in that direction,it lookes like it will just go over center in the
other,and it would be felt in the control stick.any idea's? will it pass
FAA if not felt in the stick?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Twisted Fuel Tanks |
On my second fuel tank, I had a hard time fitting the skin. I used the
plastic packing tie things, and everything seemed cool, but when I re-fitted
my skin to my ribs I always had a hard time getting everything to line up
until I had a few cleco's in. Well, I sealed the tank last weekend and now
when I fit it to the wing, it appears to be a bit twisted ) a max of 1/8"
twist corner to corner.
A few questions:
How much of a problem is this? I can file the skins to have nice margins and
be almost unnoticable, but looking down the leading edge it shows.....
Since it is close to the fuse, there is much less of a moment arm, therefore
less effect than if the whole wing was twisted.
Has anyone else done this, know about this, heard about this, experienced
this? I know I can always make a new tank, but should I do it now or wait
until it's flying to see the real effect to decide whether to make a new one?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap circuit |
Tetus should probably be "telus", naps should probably be "flaps", and basing the
rest of the
address on what similar logical clipping of letters would produce try lf or fl
in place of the n in
enench could give elfench or eflench . There is a site at telus named elfrench.
Perhaps you should
try that. The address is http.//www3.telus.net/elfrench. Ted French who's site
this is has/had 3
RV-6's.
Bob McCallum
Scarborough ON
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Alternator -> airframe ground |
Randy;
Good comment on the anodized spar acting as an insulator. I'm running
separate ground wires to one of Bob's (now B&C) ground bus for everything in
the fuselage, but was planning on using the airframe (ribs) for ground for
the nav and landing lights. I'm wondering if running a ground strap from
the inboard rib to the fuselage would take care of the spar problem.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 mired deep in wiring
Seattle area
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy Lervold <randy@rv-8.com>
. . . many of us have Phlogistan anodized spars. If Gary Graham
experienced this alternator ground problem with an anodized alternator
bracket, what do you think is happening with your wing spar ground path?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Van's Alternator -> airframe ground |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys, remember, the anodized Phlogistron spar isn't the only thing
touching the fuselage! You have the rear spar attach point, the fuel
tank attach point, the fuel and vent lines, the aileron and flap
controls, the root fairing, etc etc. I should think at least one of
those things would provide a good enough ground path for the nav lights
to work. Probly would be a good idea to ground the lights to a rib
though.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuse floor ribs
_______
From: "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's Alternator -> airframe ground
Randy;
Good comment on the anodized spar acting as an insulator. I'm running
separate ground wires to one of Bob's (now B&C) ground bus for everything
in
the fuselage, but was planning on using the airframe (ribs) for ground
for
the nav and landing lights. I'm wondering if running a ground strap from
the inboard rib to the fuselage would take care of the spar problem.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 mired deep in wiring
Seattle area
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy Lervold <randy@rv-8.com>
. . . many of us have Phlogistan anodized spars. If Gary Graham
experienced this alternator ground problem with an anodized alternator
bracket, what do you think is happening with your wing spar ground path?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Chamfering wing skin overlap area |
I looked in the archives, but couldn't find anything on this subject that
helped, so...
What is the best technique for thinning the wing skins at their forward
overlap point? If we are trying to achieve a flush joint with the tank
skin, then I believe that an equal amount of material needs to be removed
from the top of the inboard skin and the bottom of the outboard skin, right?
The best way I can think of to do that is with my belt sander, but I am sure
open to all the good ideas and experiences out there on the list!
BTW...it really DOES hurt when you try to drill into your finger!
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A N143DJ
Wings
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry <bpote(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chamfering wing skin overlap area |
I am 'where you are'. Van's said the other day to take more off the
thick piece. I saw a drawing somewhere that it was to be a 'triangular'
piece on the tip of each.
Barry RV9a WINGS
Jim Bower wrote:
>
>
> I looked in the archives, but couldn't find anything on this subject that
> helped, so...
>
> What is the best technique for thinning the wing skins at their forward
> overlap point? If we are trying to achieve a flush joint with the tank
> skin, then I believe that an equal amount of material needs to be removed
> from the top of the inboard skin and the bottom of the outboard skin, right?
>
> The best way I can think of to do that is with my belt sander, but I am sure
> open to all the good ideas and experiences out there on the list!
>
> BTW...it really DOES hurt when you try to drill into your finger!
>
> Jim Bower
> St. Louis, MO
> RV-6A N143DJ
> Wings
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | earl fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: anybody etching w/sodium hydroxide? |
I beleive I would stick with alumiprep. As fas as something cheaper,
a little red devil lye mixed with water will eat a hole right through
aluminum but I would not use it on my airplane.
Earl RV4 donotarchive
Scott.Wilder(at)sf.frb.org wrote:
>
>
> As some of you know alumiprep is quite expensive, I have been exploring the
> use of sodium hydroxide flakes or beads to etch with, it is available from
> chemical outlets for about $ .50 to $1.00 a pound, quite cheap. Anybody
> have comments or suggestions for a cheaper etching medium? How will I know
> if the concentration is too strong? How long will it hold its etching
> power?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan McKeen" <amckeen(at)twcny.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Van's Alternator |
Van's 35 amp alternator kit is the only component that has failed on my RV-6
in 400 hours. It looked good and operated well for the 400 hours. I had
used a four inch pulley (that wore a hole into by cowl) and good forced air
cooling to it. A high time RVer at the Fulton NY 486 RV fly in September
2000 commented on the repeated failures of Van's alternator at around 100
hours. His solution was to install a 50/60 AMP nippondenso remanufactured
alternator from a 1988 Chevy Sprint or up to 1994 Suzuki Samuri. He has
zero failure since the model change.
When changing the alternator, I found the beautiful blue anodized aluminum
bracket supplied with the kit, broken under one of the bolts. Van's bracket
that is sold alone is a two part steel that should never crack.
Van's kit alternator is a remanufactured 1970's from a Honda, that has the
external fan removed. The lester number for the auto parts store
replacement was the same as Van's part number for the one that I had.
Cooling and high RPM from our starter ring size appear to be the cause of
failures. The later model 1998/1994 Chevy/Suzuki has two internal fans, and
appeares to be designed for higher RPM operation and only weighs seven
pounds. The internal regulator is solid state technology that provides rock
steady voltage to my bus. It does cost over $100 more that the Van's
replacement from the auto parts store. Others on this list have reported
using a junk yard suzuki unit for 1000 hours of service so far. The auto
store 50/60 amp nippondenso is much less expensive than the B&C and you do
not have to buy an expensive regulator either.
I like Van's approach to cost control. For his alternator, reduced RPM ( a
four inch pulley will hit your cowl, try a 3 inch ) and good supply of air
are vital. I think Van would do well to provide a more modern and reliable
alternator such as the one from the sprint or the suzuki samuri. For those
who require an external voltage regulator, the only modern option to bolt on
appears to be the very expensive B&C.
Alan McKeen
RV-6
160 HP
Wood Prop
425 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "russell parr" <rrparr12(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Seattle area RVers |
I got a job in Seattle and am now moving there. I have a Grumman Cheetah
and an RV-4. I am looking for a hangar partner(s) for the airplanes. I am
willing to share. Russ Parr
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chamfering wing skin overlap area |
--- Jim Bower wrote:
> What is the best technique for thinning the wing skins at their
> forward
> overlap point? If we are trying to achieve a flush joint with the
> tank
> skin, then I believe that an equal amount of material needs to be
> removed
> from the top of the inboard skin and the bottom of the outboard skin,
> right?
I tried both methods of getting a single layer where the skins meet. I
tried overlapping them - I used my finishing palm sander; I think a
belt sander might be too aggressive.
The joint was not very good even though I started thinning some
distance from the actual overlap area.
On the bottoms, I figured few would get on their backs and look at that
joint, so I trimmed them to a butt joint (notched one side). You know
what? That was a better looking joint and truly _was_ a single layer
thick. I was so impressed that I did my other top skins the same way,
and I recommend it.
Cut your notch and trim a bit at a time, and then use a scotchbrite
wheel on the die grinder to finish. You can get the joint so it is
barely noticeable.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Canopy
Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Stafford" <dstafford98(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Twisted Fuel Tanks |
Mike,
I have an RV-6 QB that had a tank with a 1/4 inch twist built-in.
I discussed this with Bill Benedict at Vans and he related several stories
of RVs with terrible alignment that flew well anyway.
In spite of his encouraging comments I built a new tank because it would
have been very noticable along the leading edge of the wing.
David
>
> On my second fuel tank, I had a hard time fitting the skin. I used the
> plastic packing tie things, and everything seemed cool, but when I
re-fitted
> my skin to my ribs I always had a hard time getting everything to line up
> until I had a few cleco's in. Well, I sealed the tank last weekend and
now
> when I fit it to the wing, it appears to be a bit twisted ) a max of 1/8"
> twist corner to corner.
>
> A few questions:
> How much of a problem is this? I can file the skins to have nice margins
and
> be almost unnoticable, but looking down the leading edge it shows.....
>
> Since it is close to the fuse, there is much less of a moment arm,
therefore
> less effect than if the whole wing was twisted.
>
> Has anyone else done this, know about this, heard about this, experienced
> this? I know I can always make a new tank, but should I do it now or wait
> until it's flying to see the real effect to decide whether to make a new
one?
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks
> -Mike
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron bellcrank overcenter? |
You run the controls from the stick and the FAA doesn't care either way.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon Giger" <giger(at)bmi.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 30, 1982 9:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: aileron bellcrank overcenter?
>
> With the ailerons hooked up on my 6-a,they feel nice and free
on
> the control stick.however,when lifting them from the down position by hand
> they feel sticky the first inch.it is not in the hinges,it has to be that
> the bellcrank is going over center.now if i adjust the torque tube to cure
> it in that direction,it lookes like it will just go over center in the
> other,and it would be felt in the control stick.any idea's? will it pass
> FAA if not felt in the stick?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Berryhill" <dwberryhill(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chamfering wing skin overlap area |
>
> BTW...it really DOES hurt when you try to drill into your finger!
>
>
> Jim Bower
Just wait until you hit the belt sander with your finger ;-)
Dave Berryhill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | Re: Chamfering wing skin overlap area |
Jim Bower wrote:
> What is the best technique for thinning the wing skins at their forward
> overlap point?
I laid the skins on my workbench with the corner of the skin to be
beveled right on the corner of the bench and filed the triangular taper.
Very easy to control the amount you remove. Much easier if you remember
to do this before dimpling- don't ask how I know... :(
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Twisted Fuel Tanks |
SNIP****
> Well, I sealed the tank last weekend and now
> when I fit it to the wing, it appears to be a bit twisted ) a max of 1/8"
> twist corner to corner.
SNIP****
For those who haven't sealed your tanks yet....I used other builders advice
of placing plastic wrap over the spar and screwed the tank in place. Let it
set for a week and it fits the wing pefect.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron bellcrank overcenter? |
-----Original Message-----
From: Gordon Giger <giger(at)bmi.net>
Date: Friday, December 29, 2000 11:08 PM
Subject: RV-List: aileron bellcrank overcenter?
>
> With the ailerons hooked up on my 6-a,they feel nice and free on
>the control stick.however,when lifting them from the down position by hand
>they feel sticky the first inch.it is not in the hinges,it has to be that
>the bellcrank is going over center.now if i adjust the torque tube to cure
>it in that direction,it lookes like it will just go over center in the
>other,and it would be felt in the control stick.any idea's? will it pass
>FAA if not felt in the stick?
>
The "sitcky" feeling may be inertia. A well-rigged 6A has silky-smooth
controls, but when you move an aileron by hand from the down position you
must overcome the inertia of the whole system, which until you get used to
it, is surprisingly high. Check if the aileron "coasts" a bit after giving
it a shove -- it should.
Check all over for possible binding. I found a push tube rubbing gently
against a rib cutout at one place. The bolts in some places in the linkage
cannot be torqued to normal value as it distorts the fittings enough to add
unwanted friction.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 26 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <bakerje(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Chamfering wing skin overlap area |
Jim,
The overlap is only on the corner not the whole length of the joint. I used
a file and had it finished in a few minutes. don't do like I did, you can
get it to thin a little bump is OK!
Have fun, I am working on the last little Fiberglass stuff, cowling ect.
Jim Baker
S Oregon
RV-4 N513J
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2000 3:57 AM
Subject: RV-List: Chamfering wing skin overlap area
>
> I looked in the archives, but couldn't find anything on this subject that
> helped, so...
>
> What is the best technique for thinning the wing skins at their forward
> overlap point? If we are trying to achieve a flush joint with the tank
> skin, then I believe that an equal amount of material needs to be removed
> from the top of the inboard skin and the bottom of the outboard skin,
right?
>
> The best way I can think of to do that is with my belt sander, but I am
sure
> open to all the good ideas and experiences out there on the list!
>
> BTW...it really DOES hurt when you try to drill into your finger!
>
>
> Jim Bower
> St. Louis, MO
> RV-6A N143DJ
> Wings
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-4 Slding Canopy Opinions |
I searched the archives, and to my surprise did not find a lot of info on
this. Does anyone have one? Are the plans or information from the guy on
the back of 'van's Catalog good? Is it hard to do? I really want a slider
on my -4, but don't know anything about what I may be getting myself into.
Thanks for the advice
-Mike
Fuse kit arrives next week!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Certified or not Certified engine |
I am starting to look into purchasing an engine, I have decided on Lycoming,
probably an 0-360 or IO-360. I was talking to a gentleman last week
regarding certified engines, and he said I would be crazy to put a certified
engine on my plane. Can anyone elaborate on the pros and cons of doing
either? What is the general consensius? Thanks again for any help
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon Robertson <gordon(at)safemail.com> |
| Subject: | More on grounding |
I totally agree with this point. Long before I became an electrical
engineer by profession, I learned this the hard way. In my late teens
I built a hot-rod car, with aluminum panels screwed onto wood frames as
a body. I grounded the light circuits through the body panels.
At first, everything worked fine. Then after a few months, wierd
things started to happen. Both rear direction indicators would come on
when I applied the brakes. The parking lights would activate the brake
lights, and so on.
After a lot of investigating, I understood that when the car was first
built, the aluminum panels fit tightly to each other, and there was
little oxidation. So the return ground path worked well. But after
some weeks of body flexing and aluminum oxidation, the return path
became so poor that the electric current found its way back to the
battery by way of the parking lights, turn indicators, etc. which gave
rise to the strange symptoms.
Moral, always use a dedicated ground wire for every circuit, and never
use the airframe.
Gordon Robertson
RV8 wings
An excellent post on an alternator problem that also provides insight
into
another topic: using the airframe for ground versus running ground
wires.
There has been much debate on the list about whether to run ground wires
from electrical items in the wings back into the fuselage, or save the
weight and use the wing frame itself for ground.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chamfering wing skin overlap area |
I feel like adding my 2 cents but not sure it is worth that much. I
chamfered the side of the skin that lays against the spar, not the top
sides, using a file on a 45 degree into the corner. I agree, be careful and
not make them too thin, a little bump is not worth the risk of a skin tear.
Also, do this before you dimple and before putting that slight bend in the
skin to make it lay down better. On the top inboard skin, the thicker skin,
you can remove more, just on the spar side, don't do the outside. I'm not
flying yet, so don't know if this advice is any good or not.
Marty in Brentwood - RV6A fuselage, to cold to work today.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Baker" <bakerje(at)kfalls.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2000 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Chamfering wing skin overlap area
>
> Jim,
>
> The overlap is only on the corner not the whole length of the joint. I
used
> a file and had it finished in a few minutes. don't do like I did, you can
> get it to thin a little bump is OK!
>
> Have fun, I am working on the last little Fiberglass stuff, cowling ect.
>
> Jim Baker
> S Oregon
> RV-4 N513J
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2000 3:57 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Chamfering wing skin overlap area
>
>
> >
> > I looked in the archives, but couldn't find anything on this subject
that
> > helped, so...
> >
> > What is the best technique for thinning the wing skins at their forward
> > overlap point? If we are trying to achieve a flush joint with the tank
> > skin, then I believe that an equal amount of material needs to be
removed
> > from the top of the inboard skin and the bottom of the outboard skin,
> right?
> >
> > The best way I can think of to do that is with my belt sander, but I am
> sure
> > open to all the good ideas and experiences out there on the list!
> >
> > BTW...it really DOES hurt when you try to drill into your finger!
> >
> >
> > Jim Bower
> > St. Louis, MO
> > RV-6A N143DJ
> > Wings
> > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron bellcrank overcenter? |
Gordon,
I think this is the way the ailerons are supposed to work. The bell crank is in
an over center condition (or close) when the aileron is in full down, this is
ok because you are pulling and not pushing when using the stick to move the
aileron in the opposite direction. During my preflight I notice the over center
condition but once in the plane I can not feel it when using the stick.
Gary Zilik
Gordon Giger wrote:
>
> With the ailerons hooked up on my 6-a,they feel nice and free on
> the control stick.however,when lifting them from the down position by hand
> they feel sticky the first inch.it is not in the hinges,it has to be that
> the bellcrank is going over center.now if i adjust the torque tube to cure
> it in that direction,it lookes like it will just go over center in the
> other,and it would be felt in the control stick.any idea's? will it pass
> FAA if not felt in the stick?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Markert" <rv6av8r(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Is anybody priming the fuel or static/pitot tubing runs? |
Initially I decided that since I live 70 miles from the Gulf here in
Louisiana, everything on my plane will be epoxy primed. (except the
inside of the tank)
But priming the tubing is a total pain!!! So I'm thinking about
cheating.
Has anybody experienced corrosion of their tubing?
Thanks,
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: Certified or not Certified engine |
Why do you need a certified engine in an experimental homebuilt ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rv-list use at Vans |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> Scott,
>
> We certainly appreciate your monitoring the RV-list. However, if
> Van's wants
> to limit misinformation that gets propagated by the list, why
> doesn't Van's
> website have a section devoted to drawing/manual updates?
-
This is something that we have been trying to work towards for a long
time but loosing Jeremy in April has slowed a lot of work on the web
site. If you look at the site directory you will see lots things that
had been planned but have not been implemented.
>
> For example, Ken Krueger made a change to one of the RV-9 wing
> drawings in
> September after I pointed out an error. Unless other builders were
> monitoring the RV-list, they still wouldn't know about it and will
> end up
> drilling out several rivets on the finished wing and having to
> countersink
> nicely primed parts. I'm not saying that the fix is difficult, just
> that it
> would be unnecessary if builders could check for updates on Van's
> website.
-
I can not disagree, but if the current procedure was followed it should
still not be a problem.
This sort of change is supposed to be published in the RVator (that was
partially what the original reason for publishing it was for). I have
nothing to do with this in my day to day job but have often voiced my
opinion that we should be doing a much better job in this area.
>
> BTW, I talked to Van about this at Oshkosh and he said that he was
> aware of
> the need and that plans and manual updates would eventually be added
> to the
> website. Is there any schedule for implementing this?
-
I don't know. I know it is something that we have wanted to do but I am
not involved in making it happen.
Two suggestions that I can make...
Tell someone at Van's that you want an improvement in revision support
and that you suggest that it be put on the web site.
Tell them that in the mean time you would like better support with
revisions published in the RVator.
A little side note...
I am sure that most people are understanding of the fact that with the
release of a kit like the RV-9A it is highly probable that builders will
find some problems that require revision changes.
I think the RV-9A has done very well in regards to this being very
minimal. I am only aware of two corrections in the manual and now two to
the plans that are of any major importance. There have been some others
for very minor things like the call out of a rivet size, etc.
Compared to other kit company products and even passed product releases
from Vans's the RV-9A kit has been quite trouble free, is easy to build,
and we are basically kind of proud of it.
Scott McDaniels
Aurora, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Chamfering wing skin overlap area |
Jim Bower wrote:
> What is the best technique for thinning the wing skins at their forward
> overlap point? If we are trying to achieve a flush joint with the tank
> skin, then I believe that an equal amount of material needs to be removed
> from the top of the inboard skin and the bottom of the outboard skin, right?
Jim,
I recall reading in my manual (or elsewhere?) not to take off much of
this skin at all. Specifically, I read that we are NOT to aim to take
off enough to make a flush joint -- that would weaken the skin
excessively. There is a small triangular area at the inboard end that is
filed down for cosmetic reasons.
The above is all from vague recall (I don't have my manual here), but I
suggest you double-check your manual and/or call Vans before taking off
any material.
Frank.
Marton, NZ
RV-6 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | Sliding canopy quesion |
For those of you who have completed your canopy, how far apart did you
leave the space between the rollbar weldment and the front of the sliding
canopy weldment. Pictures show a gap but don't show how much. 1/8 to 1/4
inch is what I am guessing.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rv-6a canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Is anybody priming the fuel or static/pitot tubing runs? |
I don't expect my plastic tubing to corrode.
hal
> But priming the tubing is a total pain!!! So I'm thinking about
> cheating.
>
> Has anybody experienced corrosion of their tubing?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Alternator |
I currently am installing the Van's alternator and am having second
thoughts. For those who purchased the Chevy Sprint alternator, what bracket
did you use to mount it to the engine?
Ted Lumpkin
RV-4
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan McKeen <amckeen(at)twcny.rr.com>
Date: Saturday, December 30, 2000 6:43 AM
Subject: RV-List: Van's Alternator
>
>Van's 35 amp alternator kit is the only component that has failed on my
RV-6
>in 400 hours. It looked good and operated well for the 400 hours. I had
>used a four inch pulley (that wore a hole into by cowl) and good forced air
>cooling to it. A high time RVer at the Fulton NY 486 RV fly in September
>2000 commented on the repeated failures of Van's alternator at around 100
>hours. His solution was to install a 50/60 AMP nippondenso remanufactured
>alternator from a 1988 Chevy Sprint or up to 1994 Suzuki Samuri. He has
>zero failure since the model change.
>
>When changing the alternator, I found the beautiful blue anodized aluminum
>bracket supplied with the kit, broken under one of the bolts. Van's
bracket
>that is sold alone is a two part steel that should never crack.
>
>Van's kit alternator is a remanufactured 1970's from a Honda, that has the
>external fan removed. The lester number for the auto parts store
>replacement was the same as Van's part number for the one that I had.
>Cooling and high RPM from our starter ring size appear to be the cause of
>failures. The later model 1998/1994 Chevy/Suzuki has two internal fans,
and
>appeares to be designed for higher RPM operation and only weighs seven
>pounds. The internal regulator is solid state technology that provides
rock
>steady voltage to my bus. It does cost over $100 more that the Van's
>replacement from the auto parts store. Others on this list have reported
>using a junk yard suzuki unit for 1000 hours of service so far. The auto
>store 50/60 amp nippondenso is much less expensive than the B&C and you do
>not have to buy an expensive regulator either.
>
>I like Van's approach to cost control. For his alternator, reduced RPM ( a
>four inch pulley will hit your cowl, try a 3 inch ) and good supply of air
>are vital. I think Van would do well to provide a more modern and reliable
>alternator such as the one from the sprint or the suzuki samuri. For those
>who require an external voltage regulator, the only modern option to bolt
on
>appears to be the very expensive B&C.
>
>Alan McKeen
>RV-6
>160 HP
>Wood Prop
>425 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv-list use at Vans |
> I am sure that most people are understanding of the fact that with the
> release of a kit like the RV-9A it is highly probable that builders will
> find some problems that require revision changes.
> I think the RV-9A has done very well in regards to this being very
> minimal
>
> Scott McDaniels
> Aurora, OR
In general, it is remarkable how problem free the plans and instructions
from Van's are. This can only be appreciated by those who spend their
careers generating drawings and instructions. It is a never ending task,
but Van and his staff are to be commended on how well this has been done.
Again, if you disagree, you've likely never attempted to do a set,
particularly on something as complicated as these aircraft are.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | C&F Hiatt <hiattcf(at)earthlink.net> |
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Win98; en-US; m18) Gecko/20001108 Netscape6/6.0
| Subject: | Re: Chamfering wing skin overlap area |
Listers,
I used a method suggested by Bill Benedict when he was last here in
Minnesota. He said to drill a hole about 1/2" above the rivet just below
the spar flange and where the skin will overlap, then cut the lower skin
in a sguare wedge from the edge to the hole and then up to the top. This
looks perfectly level at the spar and becomes unnoticeable further down
the overlap. You can use the same method at the aft end of the skin
overlap where the Flap (or aileron) fits so that there is no overlap to
scratch the surfaces. Looks great!
Fred
Jim Bower wrote:
>
> I looked in the archives, but couldn't find anything on this subject that
> helped, so...
>
> What is the best technique for thinning the wing skins at their forward
> overlap point? If we are trying to achieve a flush joint with the tank
> skin, then I believe that an equal amount of material needs to be removed
> from the top of the inboard skin and the bottom of the outboard skin, right?
>
> The best way I can think of to do that is with my belt sander, but I am sure
> open to all the good ideas and experiences out there on the list!
>
> BTW...it really DOES hurt when you try to drill into your finger!
>
>
> Jim Bower
> St. Louis, MO
> RV-6A N143DJ
> Wings
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
--
Fred & Carolynn Hiatt Tel: (952) 898-4328
hiattcf(at)earthlink.net
Fax: (952) 898-5895
http://home.earthlink.net~hiattcf/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com |
| Subject: | Wing Skin Corrosion |
Happy New Year Listers,
Just received my wing kit (1997 or 1998 vintage)(rv8) yesterday which I purchased
from a second
party. The good news is the spar and center section are great. The bad news is
the skins show
corrosion in various degrees. There is corrosion around the edges under the plastic
like I
found on my emppenage ordered from Van's. Then there is lighter spotting under
the plastic most
everywhere. After wiping the skins down (trying various solvents) then scotchbriting
fairly
aggressively it appears that all of the corrosion is gone. I want to go overboard
to be sure it
won't be a problem down the road. I'm considering,in the following order:
1. Peeling all the plastic off the skins
2. Wiping the skins clean with Acetone or Adhesive cleaner
3. Scotchbriting to remove all signs of corrosion
4. Fit and assemble skins, etc, then disassemble
5. Etch skins (not sure what to use)
6. Anodize skins (not sure again what to use
Etching and Anodizing after drilling will I hope make sure any corrossion in the
holes would be
taken care of, offering better protection. It seems it would be best for any of
those folks out
there with kits in storage to check them before any corrosion gets started.
Any help with my thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Jack
Des Moines, IA
(shop getting crouded fast with wing parts)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: aileron bellcrank overcenter? |
In a message dated 12/30/00 10:58:40 AM Eastern Standard Time,
dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
> Check all over for possible binding. I found a push tube rubbing gently
> against a rib cutout at one place. The bolts in some places in the linkage
> cannot be torqued to normal value as it distorts the fittings enough to add
> unwanted friction.
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 26 hours
> Hampshire, IL C38
>
Dennis (and others),
I've read into your statement that your bolts are loose enough to let them
rotate in various connections in your control system. My understanding
(which may be flawed) is that the bolts on rod end bearings should be torqued
to add sufficient force so the bolt doesn't move. This is how it was
explained to me by someone who should know.
Comments appreciated,
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Berryhill" <dwberryhill(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | OT: Anyone from Jackson, MS? |
Hi group!
I've been lurking here for quite a while and hope to start building an RV6
soon, maybe even early next year.
I might be moving to Jackson, MS for a new job (from So Cal) with a nice
raise, which will help pay for the plane. Does anyone live in the Jackson
area that I could email to find out more about the city? If this job comes
through, I'll be visiting there at the end of January and I'll have to find
a place to live pretty quicky.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Dave Berryhill
dwberryhill(at)home.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: More on grounding |
So what part of your RV is screwed to a WOOD frame????
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon Robertson" <gordon(at)safemail.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2000 11:29 AM
Subject: RV-List: More on grounding
>
> I totally agree with this point. Long before I became an electrical
> engineer by profession, I learned this the hard way. In my late teens
> I built a hot-rod car, with aluminum panels screwed onto wood frames as
> a body. I grounded the light circuits through the body panels.
>
> At first, everything worked fine. Then after a few months, wierd
> things started to happen. Both rear direction indicators would come on
> when I applied the brakes. The parking lights would activate the brake
> lights, and so on.
>
> After a lot of investigating, I understood that when the car was first
> built, the aluminum panels fit tightly to each other, and there was
> little oxidation. So the return ground path worked well. But after
> some weeks of body flexing and aluminum oxidation, the return path
> became so poor that the electric current found its way back to the
> battery by way of the parking lights, turn indicators, etc. which gave
> rise to the strange symptoms.
>
> Moral, always use a dedicated ground wire for every circuit, and never
> use the airframe.
>
> Gordon Robertson
> RV8 wings
>
> An excellent post on an alternator problem that also provides insight
> into
> another topic: using the airframe for ground versus running ground
> wires.
> There has been much debate on the list about whether to run ground wires
>
> from electrical items in the wings back into the fuselage, or save the
> weight and use the wing frame itself for ground.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Slding Canopy Opinions |
Hey Mike,
The plans are great (from John) and it works well, you can even open
in-flight. The problem is you have to fabricate everything. I spoke with
John Heahn about 2 years ago and he had mention supplying some parts, but I
would add about 6 months to your construction time without. Here's his
address and ph # P.O. Box 11671, Casa Grande, AZ 85230. Ph 602 376-2856.
His plans were 100 bucks and good luck getting intouch with him.
Carey Mills
-4, 51hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Bell" <rv4bell(at)door.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron bellcrank overcenter? |
That is my understanding and the way I did it!
Happy New Year!
Bruce Bell
Lubbock, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: <KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2000 2:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: aileron bellcrank overcenter?
>
> In a message dated 12/30/00 10:58:40 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
>
>
> > Check all over for possible binding. I found a push tube rubbing gently
> > against a rib cutout at one place. The bolts in some places in the
linkage
> > cannot be torqued to normal value as it distorts the fittings enough to
add
> > unwanted friction.
> >
> > Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 26 hours
> > Hampshire, IL C38
> >
>
> Dennis (and others),
>
> I've read into your statement that your bolts are loose enough to let them
> rotate in various connections in your control system. My understanding
> (which may be flawed) is that the bolts on rod end bearings should be
torqued
> to add sufficient force so the bolt doesn't move. This is how it was
> explained to me by someone who should know.
>
> Comments appreciated,
>
> Kyle Boatright
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron bellcrank overcenter? |
-----Original Message-----
From: KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM <KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Saturday, December 30, 2000 3:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: aileron bellcrank overcenter?
>
>In a message dated 12/30/00 10:58:40 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
>
>
>> Check all over for possible binding. I found a push tube rubbing gently
>> against a rib cutout at one place. The bolts in some places in the
linkage
>> cannot be torqued to normal value as it distorts the fittings enough to
add
>> unwanted friction.
>>
>> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 26 hours
>> Hampshire, IL C38
>>
>
>Dennis (and others),
>
>I've read into your statement that your bolts are loose enough to let them
>rotate in various connections in your control system. My understanding
>(which may be flawed) is that the bolts on rod end bearings should be
torqued
>to add sufficient force so the bolt doesn't move. This is how it was
>explained to me by someone who should know.
>
>Comments appreciated,
>
>Kyle Boatright
>
Kyle,
The bolts must be torqued so they can not rotate. You understanding of no
rotation is absolutely correct, and I appreciate your questioning this point
as my reply was poorly worded and gave the wrong impression. The bolts
should not be so loose that they can rotate under vibration or applied
forces. In the case of a couple of control fittings on my 6A, especially
those with AN4 bolts, torquing to the prescribed 140 inch-lbs (or more if
one allows for stop nut drag) can sometimes result in unnecessary binding.
Some U-shaped fittings in my control system exhibited this effect. I think
the fittings on the ailerons with AN3 bolts may have been involved. I
experimentally determined that backing off the torque on some control
fittings restored my "silky-smooth" feel. The torque was still sufficient
to prevent bolt rotation. When you rig your control surfaces you may
discover the same effect.
I believe that the 140 inch -pounds for an AN4 is that dry torque that will
stretch the bolt to about 80% of the yield point. In tension loading the
preload results in the strongest possible joint. In the case of some of
the control fittings on my 6A, I believe that less torque is justified in
those non-tension-loaded applications, provided the bolt can't rotate.
BTW, I make a point about control surface binding because a local RV test
pilot refuses to fly a customer's plane if the controls are not smooth and
friction-free. He considers virtually frictionless control surface movement
to be a part of the RV design and many builders have to adjust their
linkages before he'll test fly the plane. I discovered the added friction
in my system when my helper dutifully torqued all the control linkage attach
bolts to the proper value with my torque wrench, as I had taught him to do.
Previously, we had only finger-tightened the bolts. I then had to untorque a
couple of them slightly to get the action I was seeking.
Disclaimer: I am merely a physicist and my mechanical engineering
knowledge, extremely limited as it is, is all from reading books and
on-the-job experience. I'll gladly defer to the real MEs on the list in
these matters.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP only 26 hours in two months and more snow on the way
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Question for RV6/6A Quickbuilders... |
Fellow Quickbuilders,
Im getting ready to work on the wing and am wondering how you mounted your
wing to work on it. I mounted some angle on my old jig that I built the
tail on (I did the slow build tail kit) about 52 in above the floor and it
looks like the inboard portion of the spar will sit on the angle real nice
(held in place by a couple clamps). The outboard portion of the wing is
where I have the question. It comes with the most outboard rib clecoed in
place as you know. Should I rivit this rib in first (it would seem so in
reading the instructions) and then hang the wing on the jig or should I hang
it in the jig first. The instructions dont say anything about how to work on
the wing and George's video says that he rivited a piece of alum to the most
outboard part of the spar (which is actually very flimsy and thin). But his
video showed the rib in place already.
I guess in short: what have you guys done to hold the wing on the
angle. I hate to re-invent the wheel on this as Im sure someone has done it
a better way than I can come up with. Thanks again for all of your help.
Kurt, OKC, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Question for RV6/6A Quickbuilders... |
>
>Fellow Quickbuilders,
>
> Im getting ready to work on the wing and am wondering how you mounted
your
>wing to work on it.
I was completely satisfied with two saw horses padded with pipe insulation.
You do have to flip it over now and then.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sliding canopy quesion |
Tom,
The rollers on the bottom of the slider bow stop the frame about 1/8"
from the roll bar when fully closed. That is how far my slider is from
the front roll bar. I guess one could grind some on the roller
assemblies and get it closer but there is really no need too.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)AOL.COM |
Listers,
QB6 Slider.........1 - Where are you folks mounting the filter and pressure
regulator for the vacuum system (seems to me I'd have less firewall
penetrations on the cockpit side.......but lousy access to work on, and more
holes on the engine side but easier to work on)?
2 - Is a single heat muff adequate (read "I like it hot") and where is the
best place to penetrate the firewall, left/right/high/low (I have the
triangular shaped flapper from Van's)?
Thanks in advance.
Rick Gray (Ohio) Snowing at the Buffalo Farm - Just got (and hung) my O-360
from Bart after a 5 month wait - 9.2/1 pistons - Lightspeed EI - Millennium
Cyls. - RED & CHROME BEAUTY.
please archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Alternator |
Goto http://www.niagaraairparts.com/ and go to the bottom right side of the
page. Niagara shows their 40 amp nippondenso alternator which comes with a case
or boss mounts.. Great little unit.
Gary Zilik
Ted Lumpkin wrote:
>
> I currently am installing the Van's alternator and am having second
> thoughts. For those who purchased the Chevy Sprint alternator, what bracket
> did you use to mount it to the engine?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | electronic ignition |
| From: | Frederic W Stucklen <wstucklen1(at)juno.com> |
Listers,
One of the benifits to using the Autolight 386 plugs is their higher
resistance (10,000 ohms). This allows less current to flow during the
ignition process, and results in less RFI (Radio Interference) and less
plug wear. While most of you don't plan on ever using an ADF, use of
standard aircraft plugs (800 - 1000 ohms) results in unacceptable noise
in these old AM recievers. It can also result in niose in your comm
receivers (also AM), usually in the form of desensitizing the recieve
levels (i.e., you can't receive the as far away.....).
I have been using Jeff's system for a couple of years now, and have
found it to be a good reliable system. My next plane will use two of them
with a dual electrical system. Just the savings gas and the use of auto
spark plug will more than pay for these systems......
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A ( 1695 Hrs in 7.7 Yrs)
N925RV
_______
Subject: RV-List: electronic ignition
Thread-Topic: RV-List: For Sale - ElectroAir Electronic Ignition
Thread-Index: AcBw5ryITTyG7X75TSqRtrNoZbF5AQAAE4xg
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
I have the electroair ignition, which replaced the right S4LN-20 mag. I
really like the system. There are no traces of oil on the plugs (they
were fouling slightly before), my EGT's are hotter, fuel consumption has
dropped at least .5 gal/hr, probably mostly due to the fact that I can
lean more aggressively. With the system I can lean to roughness running
24 square burning 8.8 gal/hr at 3000 ft, around 9.3 gal/hr running a
little richer to eliminate roughness at the same altitude. I've learned
that leaning to peak EGT on a carbureted engine is a crapshoot, but I do
see it peaking around 1520 on the #3 cylinder. The engine runs
smoother, but I haven't noticed a lot of benefit during starting. I'm
running the Autolite 386 plugs on the bottoms (the Elecroair runs the
bottom plugs) and don't think the flame propagation is as good as the
37BY's the mag runs on top. I'm planning to switch back to the
REM37BY's which are really good plugs and hopefully this will help
starting a bit. They have a very long reach and it is my understanding
that these plugs were designed to eliminate lead fouling problems in
O-235's. I've had it kick back on me twice with the battery low, Jeff
says that is a common problem having to do with the skytech starter's
above normal current draw. Lately I've been turning it off with the
weather being cold, but I never had this problem when it was warm
outside and the engine was easy to crank.
Jeff's support is excellent; during the install I had a dead timing unit
(the part that replaces the mag) and I called him on a Sunday afternoon,
and he gladly helped me troubleshoot over the phone. Had a replacement
by Tuesday morning.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 64 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Nippon Denso site |
Here's a Nippon Denso alternator site that has part numbers, what
automobiles the alternators fit, and so on.
http://www.kalem.com.tw/Nippondenso_alternator/index.htm
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Is anybody priming the fuel or static/pitot tubing runs? |
Michael,
To answer your question: Yes, I have seen corrosion on tubing. It was not
in an RV but in the Grumman Gooses & Mallards I used to work on at Antilles
Airboats in St. Croix. I assume you mean the 1/4" & 3/8" tubing used for
fuel, etc. Corroded under the fitting near the flare. Wiggle the tubing
near the fittings during annuals to see if they move or break. I did not
prime mine since it is 3003 alloy & not in salt water like the seaplanes.
3003 should last quite some yrs. before if or when corrosion gets to it.
If you're talking about the tubes used for control push/pull tubes, then
definetely you need to protect them. They are 6061 alloy which is more
prone to corrode than 3003 or 5052 tubing used for fuel, etc. The control
tubes are primed on the inside by closing off one end with the bearing mount
and pouring in lots of primer. Slosh it around real good & then pour out
the excess.
Rick Caldwell
-6 Melbourne, FL
180 hrs since 1/13/00 Just returned from X-C up in the frozen North.
>From: "Michael Markert" Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com To: Subject:
>RV-List: Is anybody priming the fuel or static/pitot tubing runs? Date:
>
>
>Initially I decided that since I live 70 miles from the Gulf here in
>Louisiana, everything on my plane will be epoxy primed. (except the inside
>of the tank)
>
>But priming the tubing is a total pain!!! So I'm thinking about cheating.
>
>Has anybody experienced corrosion of their tubing?
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mike
>
>
>Contributions of List members.
>http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Skin Corrosion |
Jack,
My recommendation would be to fit the parts, i.e. drill all holes & trim to
final size, then use Alumiprep & scotchbrite pads to clean off the
corrosion, then dip in Alodine, followed by epoxy prime. I like AZKO Epoxy
primer; tough stuff. This process is done on the same day with gloved hands
to keep parts from getting contaminated before the primer is on.
Rick Caldwell
-6 180 hrs after 1st. 11 mos.
Melbourne, FL
>From: pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Wing Skin Corrosion
>Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 15:08:17 -0500 (EST)
>
>
>Happy New Year Listers,
>Just received my wing kit (1997 or 1998 vintage)(rv8) yesterday which I
>purchased from a second
>party. The good news is the spar and center section are great. The bad
>news is the skins show
>corrosion in various degrees. There is corrosion around the edges under
>the plastic like I
>found on my emppenage ordered from Van's. Then there is lighter spotting
>under the plastic most
>everywhere. After wiping the skins down (trying various solvents) then
>scotchbriting fairly
>aggressively it appears that all of the corrosion is gone. I want to go
>overboard to be sure it
>won't be a problem down the road. I'm considering,in the following order:
>1. Peeling all the plastic off the skins
>2. Wiping the skins clean with Acetone or Adhesive cleaner
>3. Scotchbriting to remove all signs of corrosion
>4. Fit and assemble skins, etc, then disassemble
>5. Etch skins (not sure what to use)
>6. Anodize skins (not sure again what to use
>Etching and Anodizing after drilling will I hope make sure any corrossion
>in the holes would be
>taken care of, offering better protection. It seems it would be best for
>any of those folks out
>there with kits in storage to check them before any corrosion gets started.
>Any help with my thoughts would be appreciated.
>Thanks!
>Jack
>Des Moines, IA
>(shop getting crouded fast with wing parts)
>
>
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Certified or not Certified engine |
> I am starting to look into purchasing an engine, I have decided on
Lycoming,
> probably an 0-360 or IO-360. I was talking to a gentleman last week
> regarding certified engines, and he said I would be crazy to put a
certified
> engine on my plane.
Offhand I'd say your "gentleman" friend is the one who needs to be fitted
for a straitjacket. But it would help with the pros-cons if you'd clarify --
are you talking about a used/rebuilt Lycoming certified verus rebuilt but
not certifed, or versus auto-engine, or versus just a new Lycoming, or what?
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | Certified or not Certified engine |
Just because you may *NOT* be crazy if you use a NON-certified engine does
not mean you *ARE* crazy for using one.
We are building these planes ((RVs)to be as good as or better (depending on
your perspective) than the "production" planes many of us fly and trust the
lives of ourselves and loved ones with. If the engine is "good enough" for
that then why is it not "good enough" for my RV?
Of course a non-certified engine **MAY** be as good or better. You pay your
money and you take your chances like most other things in life.
Sooooo.... what is the REAL issue that your friend is putting on the table?
Is it that it is felt that a certified engine is not worth the money or that
it is felt that a non-certified engine is inherently better??
James
...planning to use a new *certified* LYCOMING from Van's in one RV and
rebuilt by Bart (non-certified??) in another.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of N8292W(at)AOL.COM
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2000 12:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: Certified or not Certified engine
I am starting to look into purchasing an engine, I have decided on Lycoming,
probably an 0-360 or IO-360. I was talking to a gentleman last week
regarding certified engines, and he said I would be crazy to put a certified
engine on my plane. Can anyone elaborate on the pros and cons of doing
either? What is the general consensius? Thanks again for any help
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <sgesele(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Alternator -> airframe groun |
Randy,
Come on, we're talking apples and oranges here. A B&C alternator bracket
connects to the alternator with three standard bolts. The bracket and the
inside of the bolt holes are anodized. All 40 or 60 amps from the
alternator must pass through these three, anodized points. This could cause
a problem. Now let's look at an anodized spar. Look inside the close
tolerance bolt holes and you will see that they are drilled after the
anodization is applied (at least that's how the 6's are). When you drill
rivet and bolt holes in the spar during construction, you are ensuring good
metal to metal contact. Look at the amount of rivet holes drilled into the
spar (during construction and after being anodized). Every rivet provides a
good electrical connection. The following post references a "spar problem".
I doubt that any such problem has ever existed in any RV. Any additional
grounding straps will just make the airplane heavier, slower and reduce max
baggage.
Just my $.02
Scott Gesele
N506RV - Flying (450+ hrs)
>Randy;
>
>Good comment on the anodized spar acting as an insulator. I'm running
>separate ground wires to one of Bob's (now B&C) ground bus for everything in
>the fuselage, but was planning on using the airframe (ribs) for ground for
>the nav and landing lights. I'm wondering if running a ground strap from
>the inboard rib to the fuselage would take care of the spar problem.
>
>Mike Robbins
>RV8Q 80591 mired deep in wiring
>Seattle area
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Randy Lervold <randy@rv-8.com>
>. . . many of us have Phlogistan anodized spars. If Gary Graham
>experienced this alternator ground problem with an anodized alternator
>bracket, what do you think is happening with your wing spar ground path?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Certified or not Certified engine |
There are many pros and cons on certified VS. non-certified engine. The fact
is you have to know what is in your engine and what condition or quality it
is. Just because an engine is cheap, freshly overhauled, very expensive or
whatever doesn't mean a damn thing if the thing blows up on you. Whatever
you do, you have to know, one way or another that you are flying behind a
reliable engine. If you find an engine that seems like a good deal but your
not sure, find out. Find a friend or engine guy who will for a reasonable
fee will check it out for you. Better to spend a few bucks and some time now
rather than suffer a serious problem later.
Dennis Thomas
RV-9A Emp
0-320 A2B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Bronson <IMAV8N(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Contol Vision/GPS |
Hi Folks,
Have any of you had any experience using the Garmin GPS 35 / Control Vision
Anywhere Map software / Compaq Ipaq PDA combination? I checked the
archives and found only one post. If any of you have taken this approach
for your nav needs, what did you think?
TIA,
Tim Bronson
Pittsburgh
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Need floor mounted rudder pedal assy |
| From: | Michael D Hilger <rvsixer(at)juno.com> |
A friend of mine needs a set of floor mounted rudder pedals to comply
with Van's service bulletin. He had his originals chromed and doesn't
want to weld on them. They can be used, even cracked. Any of you swapped
a set for the hanging pedals? Please contact me off-list with the
particulars.
Mike Hilger
rvsixer(at)juno.com
RV-6 N207AM
3.2 hours and...WOW!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Contol Vision/GPS |
I just used one in my RV-4 from Oregon to Venezuela via Florida and the
Caribbean and back to Oregon. I thought it worked very well. The iPAQ is
the best sunlight readable screen you can get. The software is improving
and updates are available every month. The company has been very helpful
with any questions I had. The only rub I had was flying at night with
it. The screen will not dim down enough for a night cockpit so it will
need a shade cover of some kind for that. I'll be posting a review of it
on our web site that chronicled the
trip. http://www.teleport.com/~jmpcrftr/Main.htm Right now I'm trying
to get all my thoughts together for the Home Wing News Letter deadline.
Mike
>
>Hi Folks,
>
>Have any of you had any experience using the Garmin GPS 35 / Control Vision
>Anywhere Map software / Compaq Ipaq PDA combination? I checked the
>archives and found only one post. If any of you have taken this approach
>for your nav needs, what did you think?
>
>TIA,
>
>Tim Bronson
>Pittsburgh
>
>
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Aurora, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | Contol Vision/GPS |
I have this combo (and Garmin GPSs).
To me, it seems to be a pretty good deal **IF** you already have or want the
IPAQ.
If your **only** goal is moving map for flying, there are some usability
advantages (in my opinion) for the Garmin. This is because you have
dedicated buttons for key activity. The touch points on the IPAQ are a bit
small if you are in a bouncy plane.
The functionality though is as advertised and I thin very good. Some of the
features like the "cones of safety" (I think that's the name) would be nice
for people like Garmin to adopt.
Oh, also there are some cables to deal with ...IPAQ to adapter to power and
antenna. (In reality the color Garmin could end up with the same cables of
you want external antenna and want it to run for more than say 2-3 hours).
SUMMARY: Worth it IF you have the IPAQ
Better aviation-only options exist
James
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Bronson
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2000 11:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: Contol Vision/GPS
Hi Folks,
Have any of you had any experience using the Garmin GPS 35 / Control Vision
Anywhere Map software / Compaq Ipaq PDA combination? I checked the
archives and found only one post. If any of you have taken this approach
for your nav needs, what did you think?
TIA,
Tim Bronson
Pittsburgh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron bellcrank overcenter? |
Dennis, can you tell me what reference you used to get the 140 in/lb figure
for an AN4 bolt. I'm in the process of tightening my bell cranks now and
everything I've seen says that 50-70 in/lb is recommended. For me, 70 in/lb
is to much and causes a little binding. I backed it off until the binding
went away and then rechecked to make sure it was between 50-70 in/lb.
Only a physicist?.....indeed. I can't even spell physist (sp)... :)
Mike Nellis - RV-6 N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
Building Tanks
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
>
> I believe that the 140 inch -pounds for an AN4 is that dry torque that
will
> stretch the bolt to about 80% of the yield point. In tension loading the
> preload results in the strongest possible joint. In the case of some of
> the control fittings on my 6A, I believe that less torque is justified in
> those non-tension-loaded applications, provided the bolt can't rotate.
>
> BTW, I make a point about control surface binding because a local RV test
> pilot refuses to fly a customer's plane if the controls are not smooth and
> friction-free. He considers virtually frictionless control surface
movement
> to be a part of the RV design and many builders have to adjust their
> linkages before he'll test fly the plane. I discovered the added friction
> in my system when my helper dutifully torqued all the control linkage
attach
> bolts to the proper value with my torque wrench, as I had taught him to
do.
> Previously, we had only finger-tightened the bolts. I then had to untorque
a
> couple of them slightly to get the action I was seeking.
>
> Disclaimer: I am merely a physicist and my mechanical engineering
> knowledge, extremely limited as it is, is all from reading books and
> on-the-job experience. I'll gladly defer to the real MEs on the list in
> these matters.
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP only 26 hours in two months and more snow on the
way
> Hampshire, IL C38
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Contol Vision/GPS |
to many wires and adapters and etc very little support
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | Question re: wing tip lights |
Well, shazam! I'm going to finish the tail control surfaces this weekend. Thanks
to all you RV
vets who have answered my questions (whether you knew it or not) with your posts
to this forum. And
James Clark: thanks for your help when I was looking into building my airplane...when
are you going
to fly yours? :-)
I'm about ready to start on the wings (I could use a couple more holidays to get
the process
jump-started!) and I'm trying to step out of character and think ahead...to save
weight and go easy
on the CG, I did not plan to install a tail light...figuring that I could get a
set of wing tip
lights that would provide the rearward coverage required. Anyone have suggestions
on which lights
to buy? I took a look in the archives and didn't see anything specific...or if
anyone addresses
this on their web site, please advise, and I'll go take a look.
Semper Fi
John
RV-6 (FINALLY finishing the tail...)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan McKeen" <amckeen(at)twcny.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Alternator Installation hardware |
The alternator sold at niagraairparts.com appears to be the same nippondenso
unit that has proven to be reliable in RV's application. It comes with all
December 22, 2000 - December 31, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-jx