RV-Archive.digest.vol-jy
December 31, 2000 - January 06, 2001
the attaching hardware and the price is very good. Van's sells alternator
bracket for generic automotive mounting on lycoming engines. Van's brackets
worked for the chevy sprint unit that I installed. You will have to get
your own bolts which are commonly availabe to use with Van's brackets. If I
had known about the Niagra Air Parts Unit when I first build my RV, that is
what I would have installed during original assembly.
Alan McKeen
RV-6
160HP
Wood Prop
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
Subject: | Question re: wing tip lights |
Congrats on your progress!!
I just torqued my wing bolts over the holidays. Required some gymnastics for
the bolts around the 6A main gear weldment.
Put on the engine mount as well with the (prior)hopes of hanging the engine
before the new year (won't happen).
It won't fly in 2001, although Ken's probably will and "Papa Juliette"
***might** (if not then the first part of 2002).
Keep plugging away and take a break to visit "the factory" again some day.
Lizard's Thicket will be my treat.
Also, regarding the lights, we have multiple approaches being used so you
can get some idea of what it might look like with the different mounting
schemes and different power packs.
James
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Lawson
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 9:53 AM
Subject: RV-List: Question re: wing tip lights
Well, shazam! I'm going to finish the tail control surfaces this weekend.
Thanks to all you RV
vets who have answered my questions (whether you knew it or not) with your
posts to this forum. And
James Clark: thanks for your help when I was looking into building my
airplane...when are you going
to fly yours? :-)
I'm about ready to start on the wings (I could use a couple more holidays to
get the process
jump-started!) and I'm trying to step out of character and think ahead...to
save weight and go easy
on the CG, I did not plan to install a tail light...figuring that I could
get a set of wing tip
lights that would provide the rearward coverage required. Anyone have
suggestions on which lights
to buy? I took a look in the archives and didn't see anything specific...or
if anyone addresses
this on their web site, please advise, and I'll go take a look.
Semper Fi
John
RV-6 (FINALLY finishing the tail...)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | barry <bpote(at)erols.com> |
Subject: | Re: Chamfering wing skin overlap area |
Could you reword this? I don't quite get the picture.
Barry RV9a Wings
C&F Hiatt wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I used a method suggested by Bill Benedict when he was last here in
> Minnesota. He said to drill a hole about 1/2" above the rivet just below
> the spar flange and where the skin will overlap, then cut the lower skin
> in a sguare wedge from the edge to the hole and then up to the top. This
> looks perfectly level at the spar and becomes unnoticeable further down
> the overlap. You can use the same method at the aft end of the skin
> overlap where the Flap (or aileron) fits so that there is no overlap to
> scratch the surfaces. Looks great!
>
> Fred
>
> Jim Bower wrote:
>
> >
> > I looked in the archives, but couldn't find anything on this subject that
> > helped, so...
> >
> > What is the best technique for thinning the wing skins at their forward
> > overlap point? If we are trying to achieve a flush joint with the tank
> > skin, then I believe that an equal amount of material needs to be removed
> > from the top of the inboard skin and the bottom of the outboard skin, right?
> >
> > The best way I can think of to do that is with my belt sander, but I am sure
> > open to all the good ideas and experiences out there on the list!
> >
> > BTW...it really DOES hurt when you try to drill into your finger!
> >
> >
> > Jim Bower
> > St. Louis, MO
> > RV-6A N143DJ
> > Wings
> > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
> >
> >
>
> --
> Fred & Carolynn Hiatt Tel: (952) 898-4328
> hiattcf(at)earthlink.net
> Fax: (952) 898-5895
>
> http://home.earthlink.net~hiattcf/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
Subject: | Re: Question re: wing tip lights |
Aeroflash, http://www.aeroflash.com has a combination tail,nav and strobe
you can put on the wingtip for $425. They have dual power supplies that you
can easily mount in the wings. Also, Van's sells a fiberglass extension
that you can bond into the wingtip for assembly of these strobes.
You can get the lights from Cleveland tool or the Team Rocket folks. Don't
order them direct from Aeroflash, or you will pay more for them than if you
use the vendors links below.
http://www.cleavelandtool.com
http://www.teamrocketaircraft.com
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Lawson" <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 7:53 AM
Subject: RV-List: Question re: wing tip lights
>
> Well, shazam! I'm going to finish the tail control surfaces this weekend.
Thanks to all you RV
> vets who have answered my questions (whether you knew it or not) with your
posts to this forum. And
> James Clark: thanks for your help when I was looking into building my
airplane...when are you going
> to fly yours? :-)
>
> I'm about ready to start on the wings (I could use a couple more holidays
to get the process
> jump-started!) and I'm trying to step out of character and think
ahead...to save weight and go easy
> on the CG, I did not plan to install a tail light...figuring that I could
get a set of wing tip
> lights that would provide the rearward coverage required. Anyone have
suggestions on which lights
> to buy? I took a look in the archives and didn't see anything
specific...or if anyone addresses
> this on their web site, please advise, and I'll go take a look.
>
> Semper Fi
> John
> RV-6 (FINALLY finishing the tail...)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Stage 3 engine mounts |
Dear listers,
I notices a post recently by someone interested in purchasing an RV-4. He
stressed that he wanted "Stage 3 engine mounts" I purchased my RV-4 last
year and don't know what that means.
What are they?
Why are they important?
How do I tell if mine are that type?
If not, what should I do?
Is this truly critical?
Thanks, please excuse the ignorance.
Best regards,
Don Mei
N92CT (Too windy to fly, cold too)
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gordon Robertson <gordon(at)safemail.com> |
Ok folks ...
Here is an excellent useage of the List. I need some assistance.
I find proper torques to be a very neglected subject. I agree with the
posting below, in that everything I have found says 50 - 60 lb-ins for
AN4 bolts, and 20 - 25 lb-ins for AN3 bolts. To me this is very light,
and much less than I use on my cars, etc.
But Dennis says 140 lb-ins for his AN4 bolts.
What is the correct / approved torque ?
Gordon Robertson
RV-8 sb wings
Dennis, can you tell me what reference you used to get the 140 in/lb
figure
for an AN4 bolt. I'm in the process of tightening my bell cranks now
and
everything I've seen says that 50-70 in/lb is recommended. For me, 70
in/lb
is to much and causes a little binding. I backed it off until the
binding
went away and then rechecked to make sure it was between 50-70 in/lb.
Only a physicist?.....indeed. I can't even spell physist (sp)... :)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Subject: | Re: ejection seat |
> Well.....maybe I rethink the ejection seat in my RV after reading this
> story
> http://www.gallagher.com/ejection_seat/
> Happy NewYear folks, may all your future landings be happy landings
I thought that there was a company in the States making or marketing a
lightweight ejection seat designed for the high end acro crowd for $38,000
USD. Haven't seen the ad in awhile though. Do not
archive.......Norman........
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | anybody etching w/sodium hydroxide? |
From: | Frederic W Stucklen <wstucklen1(at)juno.com> |
Listers,
An A/P freind of mine, who is in the process of restoring a old Cessna
120 that had a lot of corrosion problems, is using a product from Home
Depot called PH-OSPHO-RIC Plus +. It's a phosperic acid based product
that etches the alum very nicely. Sold in gallons, very inexpensive, and
easily obtainable.....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A ( 1670 Hrs in 7.5+ Yrs)
N925RV
______
From: earl fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: anybody etching w/sodium hydroxide?
I beleive I would stick with alumiprep. As fas as something cheaper,
a little red devil lye mixed with water will eat a hole right through
aluminum but I would not use it on my airplane.
Earl RV4 donotarchive
Scott.Wilder(at)sf.frb.org wrote:
>
>
> As some of you know alumiprep is quite expensive, I have been exploring
the
> use of sodium hydroxide flakes or beads to etch with, it is available
from
> chemical outlets for about $ .50 to $1.00 a pound, quite cheap.
Anybody
> have comments or suggestions for a cheaper etching medium? How will I
know
> if the concentration is too strong? How long will it hold its etching
> power?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: aileron bellcrank overcenter? |
I was typing AN4 and reading AN5.. Sorry -- 50-70 is correct for AN4 and
140 is for an AN5.
red-faced Dennis 6A N600DP
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Nellis <mnellis(at)emailusa.net>
Date: Sunday, December 31, 2000 1:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: aileron bellcrank overcenter?
>
>Dennis, can you tell me what reference you used to get the 140 in/lb
figure
>for an AN4 bolt. I'm in the process of tightening my bell cranks now and
>everything I've seen says that 50-70 in/lb is recommended. For me, 70
in/lb
>is to much and causes a little binding. I backed it off until the binding
>went away and then rechecked to make sure it was between 50-70 in/lb.
>
>Only a physicist?.....indeed. I can't even spell physist (sp)... :)
>
>Mike Nellis - RV-6 N699BM (res)
>Plainfield, IL
>Building Tanks
>http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
>>
>> I believe that the 140 inch -pounds for an AN4 is that dry torque that
>will
>> stretch the bolt to about 80% of the yield point. In tension loading the
>> preload results in the strongest possible joint. In the case of some of
>> the control fittings on my 6A, I believe that less torque is justified in
>> those non-tension-loaded applications, provided the bolt can't rotate.
>>
>> BTW, I make a point about control surface binding because a local RV test
>> pilot refuses to fly a customer's plane if the controls are not smooth
and
>> friction-free. He considers virtually frictionless control surface
>movement
>> to be a part of the RV design and many builders have to adjust their
>> linkages before he'll test fly the plane. I discovered the added
friction
>> in my system when my helper dutifully torqued all the control linkage
>attach
>> bolts to the proper value with my torque wrench, as I had taught him to
>do.
>> Previously, we had only finger-tightened the bolts. I then had to
untorque
>a
>> couple of them slightly to get the action I was seeking.
>>
>> Disclaimer: I am merely a physicist and my mechanical engineering
>> knowledge, extremely limited as it is, is all from reading books and
>> on-the-job experience. I'll gladly defer to the real MEs on the list in
>> these matters.
>>
>> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP only 26 hours in two months and more snow on the
>way
>> Hampshire, IL C38
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kenny finch" <krfch(at)tcsn.net> |
Richard Young left a message that he would like to buy a RV-4 but I
couldn't get him at the address he gave, so maybe he could get me at
krfch(at)tcsn.net or 805 238 1199
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | ? about car stereo's |
I'm thinking of installing a car stereo/cd player in my 4. My questions are
do I need one with a pre-amp output for the comm? I have a DRE 244 and I
would guess that most panel mount stereo comms are the same, and what are
builders using for a FM antenna? Are you having any problems with the CD
player skipping because of the vibrations?
Thanks,
Carey Mills
-4, 55hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Attaching eyes to hinge pins |
From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
12/31/2000 07:58:46 PM
Can someone tell me the preferred way to attach the safety eye to the cowl
forward hinge pins? Weld, solder, JB weld? Does one usually use steel or
stainless for the safety eye?
Thanks,
Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( finishing up cowl install )
O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV6-A-QB Pitot Routing |
Tom:
I didn't see a reply to your question so...you need to get some 1/4" nylon
clamps and pop-rivet them to the spar web between the spar and the tank. I
believe you can see a picture of this on Sam Buchanan's web site.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hrs. TT
O-320, Hartzell C/S
RV-6, Fuselage
O-360, Hartzell C/S
pat_hatch(at)msn.com
> Now the downside! How does one route the 1\4 in. aluminum pitot
tube
> per the plans? I can get the tube between the wing spar and fuel tank but
> can't seem to figure out how to secure the tube running between the spar
and
> tank??
> Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brett and Colleen Herrick" <cherrick(at)hsonline.net> |
Subject: | RV-6AQ Vertical Fin Bracket Questions |
I am attempting to install the lower VS-410 hinge bracket on my RV-6AQ
vertical fin and not having much success. As a bit of background
information, on the quickbuild kit the lower bracket is made from a piece of
1/8" x 1 " x 2" aluminum extrusion rather the 0.050" thick steel plate that
the rest of the brackets are made from. Also, the upper VS-410 bracket is
already installed and it is made of steel. So my questions are as follows:
1.) Why does the construction manual say to place the MD-3616M rod-end
bearing and an AN960-10L washer between the upper and lower brackets to
locate the lower bracket. Isn't this going to make the two brackets too far
apart (i.e. by the thickness of the washer) or is this washer supposed to be
reinstalled on final assembly to increase the bearing area of the rod
bearing against the aluminum VS-410?
2.) In attaching the lower VS-410 to the vertical fin I drilled through the
four holes that already existed in the rear spar of the vertical fin. In
doing this, three of the holes broke out halfway in the fillet radius of the
extrusion. I believe that this is due to the aluminum extrusion in
comparison with the steel brackets is shifted down 0.025" due to using the
washer, is 0.075" thicker than the steel bracket and the fillet radius is
larger than the bend radius of the steel bracket. By not having a flat
surface I don't see how I can properly form the shophead on the rivet. Any
thoughts? What I am doing wrong?
3.) As I have not been able to find them, where in the kit are the AN426D4-8
rivets to attach this bracket? Do they need to be ordered separately?
Thanks for your help.
Brett
Confused in Columbus, Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Berryhill" <dwberryhill(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: anybody etching w/sodium hydroxide? |
>
> Listers,
>
> An A/P freind of mine, who is in the process of restoring a old Cessna
> 120 that had a lot of corrosion problems, is using a product from Home
> Depot called PH-OSPHO-RIC Plus +. It's a phosperic acid based product
> that etches the alum very nicely. Sold in gallons, very inexpensive, and
> easily obtainable.....
>
> Fred Stucklen
> RV-6A ( 1670 Hrs in 7.5+ Yrs)
> N925RV
Are you sure he's not using it on steel parts? Phosphoric acid solutions
are usually used to remove rust and etch steel.
Dave Berryhill
No RV (yet!)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Heat shield paint for cowl |
From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
12/31/2000 08:35:30 PM
Can anyone recommend a good heat shield paint for the area of the cowl that
is closest to the exhaust? I would like to do this before my cowl gets
coated with oil.
Thanks,
Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( finishing up cowl install )
O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Rick,
You want them both inside the cockpit where the air is clean and cool since they
both draw in air.
I have a single heat muff and the same flapper you have and it supplies plenty
of hot air but the coldest I've flown in is about 30f. The biggest problem in
keeping it warm is all the air leaks around the wing roots and the slider-I'd
concentrate on sealing them the best you can.
Dave N87DL -6 So.Cal
RGray67968(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Listers,
> QB6 Slider.........1 - Where are you folks mounting the filter and pressure
> regulator for the vacuum system (seems to me I'd have less firewall
> penetrations on the cockpit side.......but lousy access to work on, and more
> holes on the engine side but easier to work on)?
> 2 - Is a single heat muff adequate (read "I like it hot") and where is the
> best place to penetrate the firewall, left/right/high/low (I have the
> triangular shaped flapper from Van's)?
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Rick Gray (Ohio) Snowing at the Buffalo Farm - Just got (and hung) my O-360
> from Bart after a 5 month wait - 9.2/1 pistons - Lightspeed EI - Millennium
> Cyls. - RED & CHROME BEAUTY.
> please archive
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
Subject: | NEW GARMIN GTX-320 Transponder |
Found this on Ebay if anybody is interested.
Aircraft Spruce sells it for $1615 USD. Pg 391.
Steve Hurlbut
Comox, BC
shurlbut(at)island.net
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=534002908
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Re: NEW GARMIN GTX-320 Transponder |
> Found this on Ebay if anybody is interested.
> Aircraft Spruce sells it for $1615 USD. Pg 391.
>
My FBO just sold me a brand new GTX327 for $1421, and it is light-years
ahead of the 320. Just be aware.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6AQ Vertical Fin Bracket Questions |
Bret: My RV-6-QB had the VS-410 done when I received my kit! Although the
Builders Manual said to fabricate the bracket out of aluminum and install
per plans, mine came completed and made out of steel?????? I called Vans and
they said I just got lucky!!!!
I received my Kit on December 23, 1999 so perhaps running changes
were made. I also received no AN426d4-8 rivets?
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: Brett and Colleen Herrick <cherrick(at)hsonline.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 9:07 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6AQ Vertical Fin Bracket Questions
>
> > . As a bit of background
> information, on the quickbuild kit the lower bracket is made from a piece
of
> 1/8" x 1 " x 2" aluminum extrusion rather the 0.050" thick steel plate
that
> the rest of the brackets are made from. Also, the upper VS-410 bracket is
> already installed and it is made of steel.
>
far
>
>
>
>
> 3.) As I have not been able to find them, where in the kit are the
AN426D4-8
> rivets to attach this bracket? Do they need to be ordered separately?
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Brett
> Confused in Columbus, Indiana
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
Subject: | "There I was at 10,000 feet" |
From: | Gary Graham <beeb(at)teleport.com> |
It was really 5,000 feet, but in the old days this was the standard opening
for a good aviation story. Let's bring it back.
I was having a good time (RV-4, O-320) last summer watching Scott McDaniels
who was flying below me near the surface just over the hills south of
Hillsboro AP, Oregon( 10 miles out). I think he was scouting a small
private strip? ALL OF A SUDDEN, I smelled strong gas fumes in the cockpit.
I opened My Wemac(sp) and pointed it right at my face.
Facts:
Fuel pressure = zero (1 lb. resolution)
Fuel flow = 14 gal +
Engine running (but how long?)
No fuel could be detected in the cockpit
No smoke detected
Turned inbound to HIO
Descended, ATIS, TWR, Pre-landing check
Boost pump (no change in numbers)
Opened bypass valve (no excessive bubbles in sight glass)
Engine still there
Slow reduction in throttle
Slow mixture to rich
Landing speeds, flaps, tight pattern
Landed and cleared active
Taxied to hangar(big mistake, because of reduced air flow through cowl and
my four pipe system)
Shut everything off and got out.
Did a walk around (nothing, waited awhile, nothing)
Underside check (nothing)
Opened hangar(fire extinguisher ready)
Pushed plane in and shut door (windy)
All over, under and inside smelling and looking for gas(detected gas fumes
at engine air inlet and filter looked wet on the bottom edge)
Found some help after things cooled down in cowl and I cooled down
Spotter at front of plane
Turned on fuel and boost pump (YELLING..... turned back off)
My RV was going to the bathroom allover the hangar floor (1/4" stream coming
out the cowl air exit, I mopped it up and went home)
Logged some sprayer time
"I'll bet it was coming from the carb. bowl vent" I herd someone say out
there. YES, YES, YES. I took that (60 hrs. since all new parts and AD's)
MA-4SPA apart in a way that I could analyze and test all possibilities. I
even became a familiar name at Precision Airmotive. (Nothing) Assembled
by the book (new needle and seat , gasket, French locks, etc.) Back on
plane, ground test and flew it. (still Good 20 hrs.)
OK, so what do I have to offer you? You know the drain holes you drill
in the bottom of the carb. air box to prevent backfire Fire! and engine
flooding out. I now have an aluminum tube epoxied(sp) in the bottom low
point of the air box with a drain hose aft clearing the exhaust pipes. It
is a similar system to that used on the mechanical fuel pump. In fact these
two vent tubes could be teed together and just one hose used for both safety
bypass lines.
Thanks to my nose and my RMI engine monitor for alerting me to a problem.
Oh yes, "How was the gas getting to my nose" You query? The gas came out
the carb. vent hole, inside the air cleaner element, overflowed the bottom
gasket of the element, ran into the fiberglass air box, out the drain holes
I drilled and ran out the bottom of the cowl within 3/4" of a four pipe
exhaust. It then flowed down the tunnel and aft to the tail where it
changed direction as a vapor and came into the cockpit via the tail cone. I
always suspected that the tails pumped in these birds. LUCKY, wasn't I?
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert Moser" <moserr(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | HS602 and HS810 edge distance |
Happy New Years all,
I have a question regarding my recently fitted and drilled fwd spar
on my -8 tail. I checked the archives and got REAL close to getting an answer
there, but I thought I'd ask again to see if I could get a little closer.
From the archive I see that I am not the first, or probably the last to
have this problem. After adjusting, fitting and drilling the HS810 and 814 to
the HS602 (which went remarkably well, didn't over bend the 814 / 810 or
anything) I found that one of the holes in the HS602 web "tongue"
is between 1/32" and 3/64" too close to the edge of the "tongue". This
is closer than the required 2x hole diameter. The rest of the holes are exactly
at 1/4" or more. This was caused by me cutting a little too much off the spar
web.....even after all the cautions given by the plans and videos, etc. Just not
enough material to work with for an amateur like me.
May I drill a new hole for this hole (or holes if I'm not comfortable
with exactly 2xd) that would give me required edge distance and rivet spacing?
This hole would be slightly off the center line of the rest of the holes on the
814 and 810.
Do I have to rebuild the whole front spar (I could do it a lot better and
probably quicker this time:), or can I safely fix what I have already
done?
Bob Moser
East Bethel, MN
RV-8 Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Compton" <rdcompton(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Van's Alternator |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan McKeen" <amckeen(at)twcny.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2000 8:16 AM
Subject: RV-List: Van's Alternator
> a four inch pulley will hit your cowl, try a 3 inch
Concur. I had a four inch pulley on my RV-3...until I noticed a small slit
on my cowling where the pulley had worn through. Went back to the original
pulley.
Didn't know there was a such thing as a 3-inch pulley. Who has them?
Randy Compton
RV-3A N148CW
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Heat shield paint for cowl |
I would epoxy Fiberfrax on the inside of the cowl in this area if the heat
is serious enough to damage paint. To make it even better, epoxy a piece of
.016 stainless on top of the fiberfrax and pop rivet the whole works
together from the outside using countersink rivets. Fill and refinish the
outside. I have done this before with excellent results.
Garth Shearing
75% RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com>
Sent: December 31, 2000 6:35 PM
Subject: RV-List: Heat shield paint for cowl
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Re: NEW GARMIN GTX-320 Transponder |
My GTX327 was $1350.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q wiring & panel
Seattle area
>
> My FBO just sold me a brand new GTX327 for $1421, and it is light-years
> ahead of the 320. Just be aware.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
Subject: | Re: Good post did I miss all of the thoughtful solutions |
> Several weeks ago there was a post about an RV-? that had ended up on its
> back. The rescuers noted that fuel was being ejected from the fuel vents
> and landing/ running into the engine compartment via the exhaust pipe/
> cooling air exit.
Seems to me that if the problem relates to a plane that is on its back,
we could use gravity to block off the end of the vent tube when the
plane is upside down. Unfortunately, in inverted flight or any negative
G situation the valve will close when you want it to be open, so you
might want a manual bypass.
What I have in mind is the kind of thing some snorkels have, but in
reverse. They have the end of the snorkel facing down, and a pingpong
ball in a little plastic cage, so that when the snorkel is underwater,
the ping pong ball attempts to float and closes the end of the snorkel.
For the fuel vent, have the end of the tube face downward, and suspend a
ball just below the tube. This could be on a string going into the tube,
or in a cage. When the plane is right way up, the ball hangs below the
end of the tube, and air is free to move in or out. When the plane is
upside down, the ball falls onto the end of the tube, sealing it.
Similarly, you could have a flap valve, hinged and counterbalanced, so
that right way up it is open, and upside down the counterbalance closes
the valve.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au> |
Subject: | Re: Van's Alternator |
In this alternator reliability discussion I would find some information
on the type of failures to be very helpful. An alternator should be
very reliable and to have repeated failures as have been reported here
is strange.
Are diodes failing? Are bearings failing? Is the case cracking? Slip
ring/brushes failing? What else can be the problem?
If it predominantly diode failures - it may be as simple as ESD damage
to them during assembly.
Doug Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Starting techniques in cold weather?? |
Living in South Fla, I have not had the experience of trying to start 0-320
in cold weather without primer. (although we do have frost this morning). How
much stroking of throttle is required and do you stroke while cranking?
Bernie Kerr, SE Fla, 6A flying
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | need help installing stereo in RV |
I'm thinking of installing a car stereo/cd player in my 4.My questions are
do I need one with a pre-amp output for the comm?I have a DRE 244 and I
would guess that most panel mount stereo comms are the same, and what are
builders using for a FM antenna?Are you having any problems with the CD
player skipping because of the vibrations?
Thanks,
Carey Mills
-4, 55hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
Subject: | Re: NEW GARMIN GTX-320 Transponder |
Alex: Stark Avionics sold me my GTX-327 for $1211.00! I have not seen
anybody beat his prices and he is in the Yellow Pages.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 10:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: NEW GARMIN GTX-320 Transponder
>
> > Found this on Ebay if anybody is interested.
> > Aircraft Spruce sells it for $1615 USD. Pg 391.
> >
>
>
> My FBO just sold me a brand new GTX327 for $1421, and it is light-years
> ahead of the 320. Just be aware.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> 6A
>
>
> ------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From
$7.99/mo! ------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: ? about car stereo's |
--- Rvmils(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> I'm thinking of installing a car stereo/cd player in my 4. My
> questions are
> do I need one with a pre-amp output for the comm? I have a DRE 244
> and I
> would guess that most panel mount stereo comms are the same, and what
> are
> builders using for a FM antenna? Are you having any problems with
> the CD
> player skipping because of the vibrations?
Here is what I have waiting in the closet for panel work:
Model: Panasonic CQ-DPG600 CD Receiver
Crutchfield Order #: 133DPG600
price: $259.95
I ordered it online from Crutchfield Electronics. it was recommended
by someone on the list - Laird Owens perhaps?
Anyway, it was apparently designed for the off-road crowd as it has a
10-second memory to buffer the CD output in case of skipping due to
bumps and such. Should work great for Texas summer days down low (that
and a crash helmet!).
A little pricy, yes... but put everything in the context of percentage
of total cost! That's my rationalization, anyway!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Canopy (Yes, STILL)
Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Heat shield paint for cowl |
>
>Can anyone recommend a good heat shield paint for the area of the cowl that
>is closest to the exhaust? I would like to do this before my cowl gets
>coated with oil.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jim Andrews
>RV-8A ( finishing up cowl install )
>O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
>N89JA reserved
Jim,
I used white, high temp automotive engine enamel. It supposedly has
resistance to a really intense amount of heat. The white color brightens up
the inside of the cowl, making it easier to look at stuff through the oil
filler access door during preflight. The paint also helps to seal up the
VERY porous honeycomb prepreg that will soak up oil like a sponge. An oil
soaked cowl would be a nightmare to paint if you choose to fly first then
paint later. I used maybe five rattle cans of the engine paint. Just hosed
it on and allowed it to soak into the prepreg, especially inside the lower
cowl half. I went lighter on the top side. So far I have absolutely no heat
problems from the exhaust system and oil drips wipe off nicely.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
160 hrs.
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
Subject: | HS602 and HS810 edge distance |
Bob,
I'm probably known to be one of the more 'nitpicky' builders. Small things
bother me and as a result I have rebuilt a few things even although other
builders have told me it's ok.
I know exactly where you are and the dilemma you have. In this case I
wouldn't bother redoing anything. You will find later in the building stages
that you will have to contend with larger margins than 1/32" for edge
distance.
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert Moser
Sent: December 31, 2000 11:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: HS602 and HS810 edge distance
Happy New Years all,
I have a question regarding my recently fitted and drilled fwd spar
on my -8 tail. I checked the archives and got REAL close to getting an
answer
there, but I thought I'd ask again to see if I could get a little closer.
>From the archive I see that I am not the first, or probably the last to
have this problem. After adjusting, fitting and drilling the HS810 and 814
to
the HS602 (which went remarkably well, didn't over bend the 814 / 810 or
anything) I found that one of the holes in the HS602 web "tongue"
is between 1/32" and 3/64" too close to the edge of the "tongue". This
is closer than the required 2x hole diameter. The rest of the holes are
exactly
at 1/4" or more. This was caused by me cutting a little too much off the
spar
web.....even after all the cautions given by the plans and videos, etc. Just
not
enough material to work with for an amateur like me.
May I drill a new hole for this hole (or holes if I'm not comfortable
with exactly 2xd) that would give me required edge distance and rivet
spacing?
This hole would be slightly off the center line of the rest of the holes on
the
814 and 810.
Do I have to rebuild the whole front spar (I could do it a lot better and
probably quicker this time:), or can I safely fix what I have already
done?
Bob Moser
East Bethel, MN
RV-8 Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | barry <bpote(at)erols.com> |
Subject: | Re: Van's Alternator |
Hey guys, I could be wrong (it would not be the 1st time!) but I believe
the smaller the pulley on the altenator, the faster the alternator
turns, all things being equal.
Barry RV9a
Randy Compton wrote:
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alan McKeen" <amckeen(at)twcny.rr.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2000 8:16 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Van's Alternator
>
> > a four inch pulley will hit your cowl, try a 3 inch
>
> Concur. I had a four inch pulley on my RV-3...until I noticed a small slit
> on my cowling where the pulley had worn through. Went back to the original
> pulley.
>
> Didn't know there was a such thing as a 3-inch pulley. Who has them?
>
> Randy Compton
> RV-3A N148CW
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James Oberst" <joberst(at)columbus.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: NEW GARMIN GTX-320 Transponder |
This is Garmin's old transponder. Their new one is GTX 327.
Jim Oberst
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Hurlbut <shurlbut(at)island.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 9:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: NEW GARMIN GTX-320 Transponder
>
> Found this on Ebay if anybody is interested.
> Aircraft Spruce sells it for $1615 USD. Pg 391.
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> Comox, BC
> shurlbut(at)island.net
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=534002908
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: "There I was at 10,000 feet" |
>Thanks to my nose and my RMI engine monitor for alerting me to a problem.
>Oh yes, "How was the gas getting to my nose" You query? The gas came out
>the carb. vent hole, inside the air cleaner element, overflowed the bottom
>gasket of the element, ran into the fiberglass air box, out the drain holes
>I drilled and ran out the bottom of the cowl within 3/4" of a four pipe
>exhaust. It then flowed down the tunnel and aft to the tail where it
>changed direction as a vapor and came into the cockpit via the tail cone.
>I
>always suspected that the tails pumped in these birds. LUCKY, wasn't I?
>
>Gary
>
Gary,
Yes, lucky indeed. If you haven't read my story of a VERY similar experience
in my -8, please check the archives. Flooded carb bowl, gas gushing into
the air box, then into the cowl, leading to very quiet engine and emergency
landing. Been there, done that, know EXACTLY what you went through. Took
carb apart, no signs of crud but attributed it to piece of fuel-dissolved
sealant on carb inlet fitting from inexperienced engine installer. (That
would be ME. NEVER use red RTV on ANY fuel fitting.)
Glad you made it down safely!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
160 hrs.
hangar doors frozen shut and #1 cyl out for repair. Hope the rest of 2001
is better!
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Starting techniques in cold weather?? |
>
>Living in South Fla, I have not had the experience of trying to start 0-320
>in cold weather without primer. (although we do have frost this morning).
>How
>much stroking of throttle is required and do you stroke while cranking?
>
>Bernie Kerr, SE Fla, 6A flying
>
Bernie,
I'm a firm believer in having a primer installed. If your engine doesn't
need it most of the time, then don't use it. When it's cold, it really comes
in handy! Jockeying the throttle must be done with caution. It can pump a
large amount of fuel into the carb throat, with most of the fuel ending up
in the airbox. If the engine backfires and the fuel/air ratio in the carb
throat and air box is just right....WHOOOSH...you have an induction fire.
This is a rare occurance for sure, but it can happen. I've tried starting it
without the primer...using the throttle just for experience sake. I used one
full opening of the throttle then back to closed after first charging the
lines with the boost pump. Once it started popping, the throttle was teased
slightly open until it came to life. The engine didn't like this approach,
and sputtered and rattled around a lot, but it did start.
If you don't have a primer, consider installing one. My O-360 starts up
promptly with three or four squirts in all conditions.
My $.02 on the great non-paint primer debate. :)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: fuel/oil fitting sealants |
SNIP****
> Yes, lucky indeed. If you haven't read my story of a VERY similar
experience
> in my -8, please check the archives. Flooded carb bowl, gas gushing into
> the air box, then into the cowl, leading to very quiet engine and
emergency
> landing. Been there, done that, know EXACTLY what you went through. Took
> carb apart, no signs of crud but attributed it to piece of fuel-dissolved
> sealant on carb inlet fitting from inexperienced engine installer. (That
> would be ME. NEVER use red RTV on ANY fuel fitting.)
SNIP****
With this in mind, what, if anything, is being used on oil and gas line
fittings where they attach to engine, oil cooler, carb, etc..
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Re: NEW GARMIN GTX-320 Transponder |
> Alex: Stark Avionics sold me my GTX-327 for $1211.00! I have not seen
> anybody beat his prices and he is in the Yellow Pages.
> Tom in
Ohio
I was aware of Stark, but I am willing to pay a little more to buy locally,
plus warrantee won't start until I have the FBO guy over for checkout/etc.
Like everything, one must balance all factors.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV6-A-QB Pitot Routing |
Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
>
>
> Thanks Pat and you are right. I took a look at Sam's page and determined the
> tank had to come off!!!! Sometimes a QB can cost you time. Boy were there a
> lot of screws holding the tank on!!
> Tom in Ohio
Well, I wish you hadn't gone to the trouble of removing the tank.
I see no reason why the pitot line couldn't be secured to the back of
the spar. This might require a few holes in the ribs, and a hole to get
the tubing to the front of the spar in the cabin, but compared to
removing the tank, this would be a very small issue.
Good luck with your project,
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
=================
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Pat Hatch <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 8:23 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6-A-QB Pitot Routing
>
> >
> > Tom:
> >
> > I didn't see a reply to your question so...you need to get some 1/4" nylon
> > clamps and pop-rivet them to the spar web between the spar and the tank.
> I
> > believe you can see a picture of this on Sam Buchanan's web site.
> >
> > Pat Hatch
> > RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hrs. TT
> > O-320, Hartzell C/S
> > RV-6, Fuselage
> > O-360, Hartzell C/S
> > pat_hatch(at)msn.com
> >
> > > Now the downside! How does one route the 1\4 in. aluminum pitot
> > tube
> > > per the plans? I can get the tube between the wing spar and fuel tank
> but
> > > can't seem to figure out how to secure the tube running between the spar
> > and
> > > tank??
> > > Tom in
> Ohio
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: need help installing stereo in RV |
Carey:
I have a Blaupunkt (sp?) AM/FM CD player in my RV-4. I get occasional
skipping in the middle of a CD and I think it is probably due to some
harmonic vibration that is affecting it. If I put my hand on it, it seem to
be OK. On my -6 I'm planning to go with some sort of MP3 player for this
reason. I have a Comant AM/FM antenna on the belly, but you probably could
get away with one of Bob Archer's marker beacon antennas in a wingtip or
even the bottom of the cowl.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hrs. TT
O-320, Hartzell C/S
RV-6, Fuselage
O-360, Hartzell C/S
pat_hatch(at)msn.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rvmils(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 9:27 AM
Subject: RV-List: need help installing stereo in RV
>
> I'm thinking of installing a car stereo/cd player in my 4.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: fuel/oil fitting sealants |
From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
01/01/2001 11:18:01 AM
>With this in mind, what, if anything, is being used on oil and gas line
>fittings where they attach to engine, oil cooler, carb, etc..
>Jerry Calvert
>Edmond Ok
>-6 fuselage
Jerry,
I purchased a can of Sealube and Fuelube from ACS and use it everywhere.
The Sealube is used on all the aluminum fittings and the Fuelube is used
everywhere else. Good stuff and highly recommended by four out of five
dentists who fly :-)
- Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV6-A-QB Pitot Routing |
The Main Sam wrote:
> I see no reason why the pitot line couldn't be secured to the back of
> the spar. This might require a few holes in the ribs, and a hole to get
> the tubing to the front of the spar in the cabin, but compared to
> removing the tank, this would be a very small issue.
I did just this with plastic tubing (Nylaflo?) thru snap bushings in the
ribs with good results. I used an approx 4 ft piece of cheap plastic 1/2 in
water pipe as used in lawn irrigation systems etc thru lightening holes
where I couldn't put in bushings.
I also ran wiring there. I like having the wiring behind the spar. Be sure
to secure all this so it can not interfere with control rod and bellcrank,
of course.
hal
RV6a QB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Good post-Did Imiss all the thoughtful solutions? |
The check valves we use in race cars are of two types. First there are the ones
which are spring
loaded slightly to ensure that hay close in all attitudes. Secondly there are ones
which have a free
floating ball and are therefore closed by gravity. If you were to use the second
type there would be
no issue of a sealed tank in the normal attitude and it would still solve the problem
of an inverted
accident. (you install this type of valve such that it is open in the normal upright
attitude) In
direct answer to your question no I have not calculated the pressures which could
possibly be
achieved by heating a full tank of cold fuel. This however has never been a problem
in cars. Do not
however take this to be an assurance that it couldn't be a problem in aircraft
as aircraft tanks are
CONSIDERABLY lighter than those in race cars which are designed to survive fairly
large impact
forces. All of this goes out the window of course if your "accident" deforms the
fuel tanks and
their volume is drastically changed. With respect to inverted flight etc. using
a check valve of
either type is not a problem as under all conditions in which the engine is running
the tanks vents
are always sucking in air to replace the consumed fuel and check valves are free
flowing in that
direction. In summary I would offer that the safest solution, if you wish to follow
this method, is
to use a gravity sealed check valve installed to close in any unusual attitudes.
This leaves you
with a totally stock fuel vent system in most circumstances, plus a means whereby
the tank vents
close themselves should the aircraft (and lets hope this NEVER happens) comes to
rest inverted.
Hope this clarifies somewhat,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: fuel/oil fitting sealants |
fuel lube works well!
Jerry Calvert wrote:
>
> SNIP****
> > Yes, lucky indeed. If you haven't read my story of a VERY similar
> experience
> > in my -8, please check the archives. Flooded carb bowl, gas gushing into
> > the air box, then into the cowl, leading to very quiet engine and
> emergency
> > landing. Been there, done that, know EXACTLY what you went through. Took
> > carb apart, no signs of crud but attributed it to piece of fuel-dissolved
> > sealant on carb inlet fitting from inexperienced engine installer. (That
> > would be ME. NEVER use red RTV on ANY fuel fitting.)
> SNIP****
>
> With this in mind, what, if anything, is being used on oil and gas line
> fittings where they attach to engine, oil cooler, carb, etc..
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok
> -6 fuselage
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Good post-Did Imiss all the thoughtful solutions? |
The check valves we use in race cars are of two types. First there are the ones
which are spring
loaded slightly to ensure that hay close in all attitudes. Secondly there are ones
which have a free
floating ball and are therefore closed by gravity. If you were to use the second
type there would be
no issue of a sealed tank in the normal attitude and it would still solve the problem
of an inverted
accident. (you install this type of valve such that it is open in the normal upright
attitude) In
direct answer to your question no I have not calculated the pressures which could
possibly be
achieved by heating a full tank of cold fuel. This however has never been a problem
in cars. Do not
however take this to be an assurance that it couldn't be a problem in aircraft
as aircraft tanks are
CONSIDERABLY lighter than those in race cars which are designed to survive fairly
large impact
forces. All of this goes out the window of course if your "accident" deforms the
fuel tanks and
their volume is drastically changed. With respect to inverted flight etc. using
a check valve of
either type is not a problem as under all conditions in which the engine is running
the tanks vents
are always sucking in air to replace the consumed fuel and check valves are free
flowing in that
direction. In summary I would offer that the safest solution, if you wish to follow
this method, is
to use a gravity sealed check valve installed to close in any unusual attitudes.
This leaves you
with a totally stock fuel vent system in most circumstances, plus a means whereby
the tank vents
close themselves should the aircraft (and lets hope this NEVER happens) comes to
rest inverted.
Hope this clarifies somewhat,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
The WigWag Solid State Controller is in production. We have built 17 and
shipped 14. We have had several units running since last spring. Non have
failed.
Here are the main features.
Safety. First, you are significantly more likely to be seen or noticed due
to the perception that there is movement where you plane is when the
leading edge lights flash in one spot and then flash in a different
spot. We have all been trained to be alert to motion. Second, the WigWag
flash rate has been set to insure that the bulbs come up to full
brightness. This means you will be noticed from a greater distance.
Greater choose of switches for you panel. Can use less expensive
switch(s). Switches last longer. Because the WSSC internally switches on
the high current required to power the leading edge lights, no large
current capacity switches are needed on the panel. The switches on the
panel are only used to communicate to the WSSC how to control the leading
edge lights. Commanding the WSSC is accomplished by switching these wires
to ground. When switched to ground, the current in these wires is very
small; less than 10ma. As a result, the switches on the panel that control
the functions of the leading edge lights can be small and inexpensive.
If you would like to design your panel using a special style of switches
and a large current carrying version is not available in this style, the
WSSC is a great solution.
Easy wiring. Extending 8 color coded wires are all that is required to
install leading edge lights, wigwag function and redundant +12V power. Two
wires go to the master bus. One wire goes to ground. One wire goes to each
of the leading edge lights. Three wires go to the panel switches.
Redundant power. Two + 12V inputs from the master bus go into the
WSSC. If a fuse or circuit breaker pops, the WSSC continues to function
and one of the leading edge lights continues to operate. It would be most
unfortunate if a fuse blew and you had no landing lights when you had two
lights with bulbs.
There are many more features such as bulb warmers and bulb out indicators.
To learn more, request a very nice data sheet in Acrobat format by
mailing me your email address.
For just safety, redundant reliability and ease of wiring, the WSSC is a
bargain. Cost $90 dollars plus $5.00 shipping. Send a check to
Robert Haan
14270 SW Koven Court
Tigard, OR 97224
Delivery 4 to 6 weeks.
Also, email that a check is coming so we can expedite your delivery.
Bob
Bob Haan
http://easystreet.com/~bhaan/
bhaan(at)easystreet.com
Portland, OR
RV6A 24461 Installing the Wind Screen
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Van's Alternator |
You are certainly not wrong this time. Changing from a 4" to a 3" pulley on the
alternator will
INCREASE the alternator speed by a factor of 1.33 . In other words your alternator
will now turn 33%
faster than it used to.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | EI Engine Monitors |
Is anyone using the Electronics International engine monitors? Either the
Ultimate Bar Graph
http://www.buy-ei.com/UBG16.htm
or the Ultimate Engine Analyzer http://www.buy-ei.com/US-8A.htm
Not much in the archives about these units.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BPattonsoa(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Cowl heating transfer to rivets |
I have about 170 hours on my -6A with the old fiberglass cowling. The ship
is painted with Randolphs polyurethane and their epoxy primer. An
interesting thing is going on where there are rivets holding things on to the
cowl, like the oil door backup ring, the oil door latch, and the sides where
rivets hold the hinges.
It appears that the rivet shop heads are heating up, and being excellent heat
conductors, the heads are getting hot. As a result the paint is bubbling up
over the rivet heads. Don't know if this is my special problem, but I
suspect it is not. My Lyc runs fine and temperatures are in the normal
range. Most of the problem areas are behind the rear baffle where the only
ventilation is the blast tubes to the mags.
I would suggest that any sort of insulation placed over the shop heads, as
little as a layer of fiberglass or a dab of silicon glue on each head would
provide enough insulation to prevent the problem. Once the bubbles show up,
you are stuck. Do this before flying.
For me, I plan to replace the cowl with one of the new ones at some time in
the future. The older glass cowls were not the best feature on the RVs.
Took way too much work to get them looking good, and even then they keep
reminding me why I love metal.
Bruce Patton
596S RV-6A, flying a lot
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ray Montagne <ac6qj(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: need help installing stereo in RV |
Look for a CD player with anti vibration features. This is simply a
large memory buffer that data is read into from the CD - ahead of
play time. If a skip occurs, the data discontinuity is detected in
the memory buffer and the data is stitched back together before play.
This is a common feature in portable CD players.
Ray Montagne
Cupertino, CA
>
>Carey:
>
>I have a Blaupunkt (sp?) AM/FM CD player in my RV-4. I get occasional
>skipping in the middle of a CD and I think it is probably due to some
>harmonic vibration that is affecting it. If I put my hand on it, it seem to
>be OK. On my -6 I'm planning to go with some sort of MP3 player for this
>reason. I have a Comant AM/FM antenna on the belly, but you probably could
>get away with one of Bob Archer's marker beacon antennas in a wingtip or
>even the bottom of the cowl.
>
>Pat Hatch
>RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hrs. TT
>O-320, Hartzell C/S
>RV-6, Fuselage
>O-360, Hartzell C/S
>pat_hatch(at)msn.com
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Rvmils(at)AOL.COM>
>To:
>Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 9:27 AM
>Subject: RV-List: need help installing stereo in RV
>
>
>>
>> I'm thinking of installing a car stereo/cd player in my 4.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
Subject: | Dual Lightspeed Engineering Plasma II Electronics Ignition Installation |
I need to ask a few questions from someone who has installed a second Plasma
II electronic ignition system in their RV. I have one, and have ordered a
second unit, but there are a few questions regarding the physical aspects of
its installation... I need to "pick someone's brains."
Please contact me off list if you have put two of these units in your plane.
Thanks
John RV6A Flying Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | C&F Hiatt <hiattcf(at)earthlink.net> |
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Win98; en-US; m18) Gecko/20001108 Netscape6/6.0
Subject: | Re: Chamfering wing skin overlap area] |
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: RV-List: Chamfering wing skin overlap area
Date: Mon, 01 Jan 2001 12:13:21 -0600
From: C&F Hiatt <hiattcf@earthlinknet>
Sure, If this doesn't explain it clearly please let me know
Mark a line on the underneath skin down 1 1/4" from the top edge where
it rests on the spar, at that point drill a hole 1/16 to 1/8"
diameter-- prevents cracking Now cut the underneath skin along this
line until you reach the hole, then cut the same skin at a right angle
to the first cut over to the edge of the skin Try to make the first
cus accurately so that the upper and lower skins make a clean line
together The result will be a square notch on the underneath skin that
ends about 3/8" above the next skin rivet hole Then both skins lie on
the spar, and no filing I used a Dremel tool for the cuts - Very neat
____top edge_________upper skin
|
| 1 1/4"
|
|
|---cut line----O
|
|
|
|
Looks sorta like that Good luck
Fred
barry wrote:
>
> Could you reword this? I don't quite get the picture
> Barry RV9a Wings
>
> C&F Hiatt wrote:
>
>>
>> Listers,
>>
>> I used a method suggested by Bill Benedict when he was last here in
>> Minnesota He said to drill a hole about 1/2" above the rivet just below
>> the spar flange and where the skin will overlap, then cut the lower skin
>> in a sguare wedge from the edge to the hole and then up to the top This
>> looks perfectly level at the spar and becomes unnoticeable further down
>> the overlap You can use the same method at the aft end of the skin
>> overlap where the Flap or aileron fits so that there is no overlap to
>> scratch the surfaces Looks great!
>>
>> Fred
>>
>> Jim Bower wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>> I looked in the archives, but couldn't find anything on this
subject that
>>> helped, so
>>>
>>> What is the best technique for thinning the wing skins at their forward
>>> overlap point? If we are trying to achieve a flush joint with the tank
>>> skin, then I believe that an equal amount of material needs to be
removed
>>> from the top of the inboard skin and the bottom of the outboard
skin, right?
>>>
>>> The best way I can think of to do that is with my belt sander, but
I am sure
>>> open to all the good ideas and experiences out there on the list!
>>>
>>> BTWit really DOES hurt when you try to drill into your finger!
>>>
>>>
>>> Jim Bower
>>> St Louis, MO
>>> RV-6A N143DJ
>>> Wings
>>> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorermsncom
>>>
>>>
>>
>> --
>> Fred & Carolynn Hiatt Tel: 952 898-4328
>> hiattcf@earthlinknet
>> Fax: 952 898-5895
>>
>> http://homeearthlinknet~hiattcf/
>>
>
>
>
--
Fred & Carolynn Hiatt Tel: 952 898-4328
hiattcf@earthlinknet
Fax: 952 898-5895
http://homeearthlinknet~hiattcf/
--
Fred & Carolynn Hiatt Tel: 952 898-4328
hiattcf@earthlinknet
Fax: 952 898-5895
http://homeearthlinknet~hiattcf/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
Subject: | Re: NEW GARMIN GTX-320 Transponder |
Some of us think AC is reputable. I have bought a lot of stuff from them
and they have treated me real good.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Color Moving Map |
In a message dated 1/1/01 11:10:27 AM Pacific Standard Time,
nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes:
> I really like the Anywhere Map Compaq PDA but if I add something like this I
> would like a larger screen. (I can't find the actual screen size)
>
Norman, I am installing the compaq IPAQ version in the middle of my panel
flush mounted with room left over for a bigger screen when they become
available. Im predicting (hoping hard) laptops will be replaced soon with a
version sized somewhere in between the handheld and the current size laptop.
However the present size screen is easy to read when it is that close to your
face.
Kevin Shannon
-9A wiring and plumbing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Color Moving Map |
I have also been considering the Compaq IPAQ setup. I don't know anything
about the IPAQ, but I liked the capability of adding flight planning
software, checklists, and whatever.
Recently, there has been a thread on car stereos being installed in RV's.
Hmmmm....wonder if the IPAQ has the capablility of playing MP3 audio files
through the intercom while also running the Map Anywhere software? Would
imagine it would need amplification, but there would be no skipping the
beat!
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: <Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 1:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Color Moving Map
>
> In a message dated 1/1/01 11:10:27 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes:
>
> > I really like the Anywhere Map Compaq PDA but if I add something like
this I
> > would like a larger screen. (I can't find the actual screen size)
> >
> Norman, I am installing the compaq IPAQ version in the middle of my panel
> flush mounted with room left over for a bigger screen when they become
> available. Im predicting (hoping hard) laptops will be replaced soon with
a
> version sized somewhere in between the handheld and the current size
laptop.
> However the present size screen is easy to read when it is that close to
your
> face.
> Kevin Shannon
> -9A wiring and plumbing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Good post-Did Imiss all the thoughtful solutions? |
>
>The check valves we use in race cars are of two types. First there
>are the ones which are spring
>loaded slightly to ensure that hay close in all attitudes. Secondly
>there are ones which have a free
>floating ball and are therefore closed by gravity. If you were to
>use the second type there would be
>no issue of a sealed tank in the normal attitude and it would still
>solve the problem of an inverted
>accident. (you install this type of valve such that it is open in
>the normal upright attitude) In
>direct answer to your question no I have not calculated the
>pressures which could possibly be
>achieved by heating a full tank of cold fuel. This however has never
>been a problem in cars. Do not
>however take this to be an assurance that it couldn't be a problem
>in aircraft as aircraft tanks are
>CONSIDERABLY lighter than those in race cars which are designed to
>survive fairly large impact
>forces. All of this goes out the window of course if your "accident"
>deforms the fuel tanks and
>their volume is drastically changed. With respect to inverted flight
>etc. using a check valve of
>either type is not a problem as under all conditions in which the
>engine is running the tanks vents
>are always sucking in air to replace the consumed fuel and check
>valves are free flowing in that
>direction. In summary I would offer that the safest solution, if you
>wish to follow this method, is
>to use a gravity sealed check valve installed to close in any
>unusual attitudes. This leaves you
>with a totally stock fuel vent system in most circumstances, plus a
>means whereby the tank vents
>close themselves should the aircraft (and lets hope this NEVER
>happens) comes to rest inverted.
>
>Hope this clarifies somewhat,
>
>Bob
>
Bob,
I'm interested in learning where to get the gravity sealed check
valves. Who makes them, and do you have any part numbers at hand?
I might make this mod to my system. One side only at first, and I
wouldn't use that side for take-off and landing until I had built up
confidence in it. If it worked out, I would then modify the second
side.
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Don Eaves" <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com> |
Subject: | Attaching eyes to hinge pins |
Make it completely from stainless pin stock - Cold bend the eye into the
end.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 7:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: Attaching eyes to hinge pins
Can someone tell me the preferred way to attach the safety eye to the cowl
forward hinge pins? Weld, solder, JB weld? Does one usually use steel or
stainless for the safety eye?
Thanks,
Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( finishing up cowl install )
O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
Subject: | Re: Alternator Source |
Mark Landoll is a real solid guy.I have had good sucess with his
alternator on my RV4 (+400 hrs.)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | barry <bpote(at)erols.com> |
Subject: | Re: BUILT IN TILT? |
DO ALL RVs need a "BUILT IN TILT" on the gauges? What is that all about.
Is it the same for the NINE?
Barry
bcbraem(at)home.com wrote:
>
>
> NOTE: NO BUILT-IN TILT
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: EI Engine Monitors |
I've got a UBG-16 in my RV-4. I think it's a great unit. The only thing I
have active on it at this time is the EGT/CHT. The ability to lean to best
economy while seeing everything at once is nice plus it has the LEAN mode
that lets you know when you've got it there. I haven't programmed any
alarms yet. I'll probably hook up the serial connection just to play with
the trend analysis stuff on a portable computer.
Mike
>
>Is anyone using the Electronics International engine monitors? Either the
>Ultimate Bar Graph
> http://www.buy-ei.com/UBG16.htm
>
>or the Ultimate Engine Analyzer http://www.buy-ei.com/US-8A.htm
>
>Not much in the archives about these units.
>
>Ross
>
>
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Aurora, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Battery Source |
Hi all, I searched the archives and did not find much info on battery
sources. My research for a good battery concluded that I want a 17 AH RG
battery as reccomended by our good buddy lectric Bob. Two of the ones he
reccomends are the Powersonic PS-12180 and its couzin the Panasonic
LCRD1271P. I just bought mine at Batteries.com. they have the Powersonic
PS12180 for $61.64 and will ship USPS for $.99.
A pretty good deal in my opinion for $62 bucks and some change.
A related question: does the alternator Niagra Air Parts sells have an
internal fan, and is its internal regulator OK for our RVs or does it need an
additional over voltage protector.
I am in no way affiliated with batteries.com
Kevin Shannon
-9A wiring and plumbing, painting interior
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | earl fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Color Moving Map |
How you guys goin to find time to fly the plane if your fiddling
with stereos and computers?
Jerry Calvert wrote:
>
>
> I have also been considering the Compaq IPAQ setup. I don't know anything
> about the IPAQ, but I liked the capability of adding flight planning
> software, checklists, and whatever.
>
> Recently, there has been a thread on car stereos being installed in RV's.
> Hmmmm....wonder if the IPAQ has the capablility of playing MP3 audio files
> through the intercom while also running the Map Anywhere software? Would
> imagine it would need amplification, but there would be no skipping the
> beat!
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok
> -6 fuselage
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 1:47 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Color Moving Map
>
> >
> > In a message dated 1/1/01 11:10:27 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> > nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes:
> >
> > > I really like the Anywhere Map Compaq PDA but if I add something like
> this I
> > > would like a larger screen. (I can't find the actual screen size)
> > >
> > Norman, I am installing the compaq IPAQ version in the middle of my panel
> > flush mounted with room left over for a bigger screen when they become
> > available. Im predicting (hoping hard) laptops will be replaced soon with
> a
> > version sized somewhere in between the handheld and the current size
> laptop.
> > However the present size screen is easy to read when it is that close to
> your
> > face.
> > Kevin Shannon
> > -9A wiring and plumbing
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Don Winters" <dtw_rv6(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Van's Alternator -> airframe ground |
Aluminum Oxide is a better insulator than glass! That is why aluminum wire
is no longer used for residential wiring. If it is used at all for an
electrical connection, the connection is coated with an anti-corrosive
compound, and sealed from the elements.
Can you use the frame as a ground? Sure. I'll bet we have plenty of planes
out there like that. What is the most reliable connection? A separate
grounding system.
Your choice.
Don Winters
Wings
http://www.geocities.com/dtw_rv6
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
czechsix(at)juno.com
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2000 6:46 AM
Subject: RV-List: Van's Alternator -> airframe ground
Guys, remember, the anodized Phlogistron spar isn't the only thing
touching the fuselage! You have the rear spar attach point, the fuel
tank attach point, the fuel and vent lines, the aileron and flap
controls, the root fairing, etc etc. I should think at least one of
those things would provide a good enough ground path for the nav lights
to work. Probly would be a good idea to ground the lights to a rib
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Don Winters" <dtw_rv6(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | aileron bellcrank overcenter? |
I plan to mount a couple of stops on my bellcrank that will hit the rib it
is mounted to before it can go past dead-center
Getting past the inspector would not be my primary concern. I'm more
worried about the potential for jammed controls.
Don
Wings
http://www.geocities.com/dtw_rv6
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gordon Giger
Sent: Thursday, December 30, 1982 9:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: aileron bellcrank overcenter?
With the ailerons hooked up on my 6-a,they feel nice and free on
the control stick.however,when lifting them from the down position by hand
they feel sticky the first inch.it is not in the hinges,it has to be that
the bellcrank is going over center.now if i adjust the torque tube to cure
it in that direction,it lookes like it will just go over center in the
other,and it would be felt in the control stick.any idea's? will it pass
FAA if not felt in the stick?
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Van's Alternator |
DECREASE TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Don Eaves" <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com> |
"Is a single heat muff adequate (read "I like it hot")"
NO! With 2 muffs & 1/2 springs added inside for heat risers - It was still
cold, Cold Cold! OAT 20F I'm going to try routing the air from one muff
into the other then into the aircraft. I like it HOT also... If that don't
work I will slow down the air flow into the muffs...
"Where is the best place to penetrate the firewall, left/right/high/low"
I ran mine through the right side in front of the passengers feet - I used
the other valve - "Stainless" (On/Off - Hot/Cold) and placed it on the right
because of summer operations when I can turn it full cold because my #1
passenger "My Wife" likes it Cold Cold Cold In the Summer.
Anyway I will keep the list posted on my efforts to heat up my RV this
winter...
From several RVs here - They suffer from cold feet in the winter as well -
So I hope to solve this for those who desire to fly when it is cold & Sever
Clear...
Don
RV6 Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Heater (was firewall) |
I have two Robins Wings heat muffs in series in my 6A. With the sun shining
brightly and 10 F OAT it is very warm in the cockpit: 65 F monitored near
the canopy at F621A. I have to turn down the heat.
Under a broken sky at 5 F OAT three hours before sunset, it was 55 F near
the canopy; 15 minutes before sunset it dropped to 45 F in the cockpit near
the canopy. There is a Radio Shack indoor/outdoor thermometer Velcro'ed to
the F621A with the outdoor probe near the wing tip in undisturbed air. I've
not yet flown at night, but I'm sure it would not be comfortable for me for
long with 5-10 F OAT. The greenhouse effect from the canopy in bright
sunlight is impressive. I have always flown in shirtsleeves without gloves
in my C172 and I am trying to do the same in the RV6A.
My heater mixer valve (VENT DL-01) is on the right lower firewall. It has a
PVC 90 deg elbow with a 1-inch hole bored in it to allow some air to the
passenger side. The rest of the air goes through a two-inch scat and is
dumped behind the pilot's rudder pedals. My feet are always warm.
I have a few leaks from around the eyeball vents (Van's black ones). The
ram air pressure from the NACA vents is astounding! Little 0.020 wide slots
leak a lot of air! I seem to have no canopy leaks whatever (tip up) and I
don't think I have any leaks from the wing attach area. I love winter flying
so I installed the two muffs and I would like even more heat, but so far
what I have obtained is marginally adequate.
I don't understand the physics of the springs (because the area of the
spring represents less than 1% of the heat muff or pipe area) so I haven't
tried them. On our last flight I experimented with reducing the air flow
with the internal damper (I have the mixer/flow restrictor gadget) to see if
a reduced flow volume of hotter air was better -- I didn't notice a big
difference but I need to take more data.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 26 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Eaves <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com>
Date: Monday, January 01, 2001 6:15 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Firewall
>
>
>"Is a single heat muff adequate (read "I like it hot")"
>
>NO! With 2 muffs & 1/2 springs added inside for heat risers - It was still
>cold, Cold Cold! OAT 20F I'm going to try routing the air from one muff
>into the other then into the aircraft. I like it HOT also... If that don't
>work I will slow down the air flow into the muffs...
>
>"Where is the best place to penetrate the firewall, left/right/high/low"
>
>I ran mine through the right side in front of the passengers feet - I used
>the other valve - "Stainless" (On/Off - Hot/Cold) and placed it on the
right
>because of summer operations when I can turn it full cold because my #1
>passenger "My Wife" likes it Cold Cold Cold In the Summer.
>
>Anyway I will keep the list posted on my efforts to heat up my RV this
>winter...
>
>From several RVs here - They suffer from cold feet in the winter as well -
>So I hope to solve this for those who desire to fly when it is cold & Sever
>Clear...
>
>Don
>RV6 Flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
For those interested, I have posted several updates to my web site...
www.rv-8.com. Updates include...
-A trick solution for your emergency com antenna on the 'Products & ideas'
page
http://www.rv-8.com/pgIdeasProducts.htm
-Pics of my compliance with the fuel tank pickup service notice.
http://www.rv-8.com/pgWings.htm
-My cowling is now 99% done.
http://www.rv-8.com/pgPlenumCowl.htm
-An update on the painting, see the 'Painting page
http://www.rv-8.com/pgPainting.htm
Happy New Year!
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, painting
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kent Ashton <kjashton(at)vnet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Dual Lightspeed Engineering Plasma II Electronics Ignition |
Installation
John, I'm doing the wiring for a dual plasma ign on my Cozy. Two 17 AH
batteries, one alternator, crank triggers and hall-effect trigger on a mag
hole. I'm flying Klaus's older ign on another cozy with a mag backup. --Kent
Ashton
John wrote:
>
> I need to ask a few questions from someone who has installed a second Plasma
> II electronic ignition system in their RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Twisted Fuel Tanks |
IF YOU'RE TALKING ABOUT YOUR LEADING EDGE AS YOU SIGHT DOWN IT FROM THE WING
TIP, I HAVE THE SAME THING ON BOTH OF MY WINGS AND I HAVE SEVERAL FRIENDS
THAT SHOW THE SAME THING TO VARYING DEGREES. DOESN'T SEEM TO DO ANYTHING
ADVERSE.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
Subject: | Fuel injection PSI |
Fellow Listers:
Does anyone know what a "normal" PSI reading would be for a Bendix FI
system? My newly acquired RV-4 (AEIO-360) reads 25 psi all the time (boost
pump on or off). I'm sure this is fine, but just curious as I have nothing
to compare with.
Thanks
Doug
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: aileron bellcrank overcenter? |
If you don't build it like according to Van's plans with the slight overcenter
you will never get the full aileron deflection that Van publishes. The
overcenter condition is not a safety issue and once you get the ailerons and
bellcranks rigged you'll understand why. The overcenter condition only happens
on the down aileron and requires pulling past the overcenter to move the
aileron the other direction this will never result in binding if built per
Van's specs.
Gary Zilik
Don Winters wrote:
>
> I plan to mount a couple of stops on my bellcrank that will hit the rib it
> is mounted to before it can go past dead-center
>
> Getting past the inspector would not be my primary concern. I'm more
> worried about the potential for jammed controls.
>
> Don
> Wings
> http://www.geocities.com/dtw_rv6
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Alternator Choices. |
One other point about the Landoll alternator is that they are rebuilt/ovehauled
units. The nippo from Niagra is bran spanking new.
Gary
Alan McKeen wrote:
>
> Mark Landoll's 35 AMP alternator is the very same unit that Van sells with a
> regulator mounted to a bracket attached to the back of the housing. I would
> avoid that unit because of the same reasons Van's appears to fail, RPM and
> temperature that this older technology alternator is not designed for. I do
> not know what Mark's 60 AMP unit is like. Single V pulleys of various
> diameter can be found at automobile racing shops or in their catalogs,
> however the stock pulley is 2.75 inches and we know that the 4 inch pulley
> available from aircraft spruce will probably hit you cowl. A three inch
> pulley is better than stock but not much. So, the better solution is to use
> an alternator that is designed for the RPM that will result from
> installation on our Lycoming engines and has internal cooling fans. The
> newer 40, and 50/60 AMP nippondenso units such as from Chevy Sprint or
> Suzuki Samuri as well as the unit from niagraairparts.com appear to meet
> those criteria.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Battery Source |
Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Hi all, I searched the archives and did not find much info on battery
> sources. My research for a good battery concluded that I want a 17 AH RG
> battery as reccomended by our good buddy lectric Bob. Two of the ones he
> reccomends are the Powersonic PS-12180 and its couzin the Panasonic
> LCRD1271P. I just bought mine at Batteries.com. they have the Powersonic
> PS12180 for $61.64 and will ship USPS for $.99.
> A pretty good deal in my opinion for $62 bucks and some change.
> A related question: does the alternator Niagra Air Parts sells have an
> internal fan, and is its internal regulator OK for our RVs or does it need an
> additional over voltage protector.
Works great in our RV's and it is new new new, not remanufactured, small and has
internal fans. Note the plural on fans.
Don't know nothin about the Panasonic battery but I'll sure go to bat for my
Oddessy. Twice the master has been left on and the battery drained to less than
.5 volt. Charge it back up and it is like new. Try that with a lead acid battery.
Sort of pricy at 150 bucks but Batteries Plus had them on sale awhile back for
100 bucks.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
Skybolt carries them. WWW.Skybolt.com.
Does any one know where ACS or Van lists the oil door Camlock that has
the
finger operated wings on it?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: BUILT IN TILT? |
Only the Artificial Horizon needs this tilt. The Turn coordinator may also
if you want it calibrated for a two minute turn.
Gary
barry wrote:
>
> DO ALL RVs need a "BUILT IN TILT" on the gauges? What is that all about.
> Is it the same for the NINE?
> Barry
>
> bcbraem(at)home.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > NOTE: NO BUILT-IN TILT
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
Subject: | Re: Heater (was firewall) |
Listers:
I realize I live in a warm climate but I do believe trying to fly in winter
in shirt sleeves may not be wise. Considering the consequences of a forced
landing in winter weather I have always considered it the better part of
valor to go ahead and wear boots and good jackets during winter weather.
Maybe having a heater that is not so good forces us to dress appropriately
for the weather outdoors in the season that we are flying.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Heater (was firewall) |
Dennis,
I just added 7/16 springs to my muff's(Robbins). They fit great under the
muff's and I wrap the pipe from flange to flange, I flew this afternoon and
did notice a slight increase, but not as much as I hope. It only took an
hour and cost about 6 bucks for the springs at Home Depot.
Blue Skies,
Carey Mills
-4, 56hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Fuel injection PSI |
Hey Doug,
25 seems to be right on the money, although I get 30 when I turn on my boost
(Airflow Performance) and it drops to 27 at times.
Later,
Carey Mills
-4, 56hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Fuel injection PSI |
BTW my book has 18 psi as your minimum.
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tim Bronson <IMAV8N(at)compuserve.com> |
Subject: | Re: Color Moving Map |
Hi Folks,
Earl Fortner wrote:
"How you guys goin to find time to fly the plane if your fiddling
with stereos and computers?"
Excellent point. Now that 2001 (as in, "A Space Odyssey") is here, it
might be an appropriate time to think about whether this high-tech stuff
works for us, or is it the other way around? As I contemplate choices for
GPS equipment, I remember how refreshing it was to fly a J-3 with NO radios
whatsoever. It would be a shame for any of us to have the joy of flying be
compromised by the perceived need to select, enter, modify, delete, zoom,
pan, program, etc.
Aviate, navigate, communicate. And enjoy.
Tim - stepping off philospher's stone - Pittsburgh
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Subject: | Re: Van's Alternator |
After listening to this discussion on Van's alternators failing, I went out
yesterday to wash my 6 and afterwards found that the alternator wouldn't
work. Turns out that the problem was a wire I left off when changing a
breaker - BUT - in the troubleshooting process I disassembled the
alternator and found what I would call a rather poor example of a rebuild.
They had painted over grease in several places and the brushes and
commutator(slip ring) were covered with grease from the rear bearing (after
only 45hrs).
My experience with rebuilt alternators etc, over the past 40 years, has not
been very good. Not that it isn't possible to get a good rebuild - most of
my life has been spent repairing and rebuilding stuff and I know it CAN be
done right, but it usually isn't.
So just remember when you buy something that's "rebuilt" it's a crapshoot.
Dave
Doug Gray wrote:
>
> In this alternator reliability discussion I would find some information
> on the type of failures to be very helpful. An alternator should be
> very reliable and to have repeated failures as have been reported here
> is strange.
>
> Are diodes failing? Are bearings failing? Is the case cracking? Slip
> ring/brushes failing? What else can be the problem?
>
> If it predominantly diode failures - it may be as simple as ESD damage
> to them during assembly.
>
> Doug Gray
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Berryhill" <dwberryhill(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Good post-Did Imiss all the thoughtful solutions? |
> >
> >The check valves we use in race cars are of two types. First there
> >are the ones which are spring
> >loaded slightly to ensure that hay close in all attitudes. Secondly
> >there are ones which have a free
> >floating ball and are therefore closed by gravity.
What do aerobatic planes use to keep from losing fuel when inverted?
Dave Berryhill
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Color Moving Map |
Earl,
This stuff isn't for the pilot! He's having too much fun flying the
plane.....the computer and stereo is to give the passenger something to do
so he/she can have some fun too!!
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: earl fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Color Moving Map
>
> How you guys goin to find time to fly the plane if your fiddling
> with stereos and computers?
>
> Jerry Calvert wrote:
> >
> >
> > I have also been considering the Compaq IPAQ setup. I don't know
anything
> > about the IPAQ, but I liked the capability of adding flight planning
> > software, checklists, and whatever.
> >
> > Recently, there has been a thread on car stereos being installed in
RV's.
> > Hmmmm....wonder if the IPAQ has the capablility of playing MP3 audio
files
> > through the intercom while also running the Map Anywhere software?
Would
> > imagine it would need amplification, but there would be no skipping the
> > beat!
> >
> > Jerry Calvert
> > Edmond Ok
> > -6 fuselage
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM>
> > To:
> > Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 1:47 PM
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Color Moving Map
> >
> > >
> > > In a message dated 1/1/01 11:10:27 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> > > nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes:
> > >
> > > > I really like the Anywhere Map Compaq PDA but if I add something
like
> > this I
> > > > would like a larger screen. (I can't find the actual screen size)
> > > >
> > > Norman, I am installing the compaq IPAQ version in the middle of my
panel
> > > flush mounted with room left over for a bigger screen when they become
> > > available. Im predicting (hoping hard) laptops will be replaced soon
with
> > a
> > > version sized somewhere in between the handheld and the current size
> > laptop.
> > > However the present size screen is easy to read when it is that close
to
> > your
> > > face.
> > > Kevin Shannon
> > > -9A wiring and plumbing
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
Subject: | Re: Heater (was firewall) |
Be careful about wrapping a spring around your exhaust pipe inside the
muffler heater. At first the inside of the cockpit filled with smoke
and my instructor and I were choking and had tears in our eyes even
though I turned the heater control off . If you do this ,don't turn on
the cabin heat for the first 5 hours in order for your very hot exhaust
pipe to burn off whatever the doorspring or whatever spring you use was
dipped in or coated with.It can really stink up your cockpit. I don't
know if it is a health factor or not but I am sure it did not do me any
good. The idea is to slow the air down and give it more mass to heat.
George O's tapes showing larger and more holes in the muffler heater
intake and smaller and fewer holes in the exhaust I believe may be a
better system
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Heater (was firewall) |
Would stainless steel pot scrubbers be more efficient?
Rvmils(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Dennis,
> I just added 7/16 springs to my muff's(Robbins). They fit great under the
> muff's and I wrap the pipe from flange to flange, I flew this afternoon and
> did notice a slight increase, but not as much as I hope. It only took an
> hour and cost about 6 bucks for the springs at Home Depot.
> Blue Skies,
> Carey Mills
> -4, 56hrs
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
Subject: | Re: Alternator Source |
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Heater (was firewall) |
In a message dated 1/1/01 6:23:12 PM Pacific Standard Time, n5lp(at)carlsbad.net
writes:
<< I realize I live in a warm climate but I do believe trying to fly in winter
in shirt sleeves may not be wise. Considering the consequences of a forced
landing in winter weather I have always considered it the better part of
valor to go ahead and wear boots and good jackets during winter weather.
Maybe having a heater that is not so good forces us to dress appropriately
for the weather outdoors in the season that we are flying. >>
I was considering this very notion yesterday as I was returning to Livermore
from Las Vegas over the towering Sierra at 14,500 ft. For about 20 minutes
there's just no place to go in case of an emergency.
We have good heaters vents (2) and I am usually just wearing my beat up old
A2 or Van's flight jacket with no consideration that we might go down. You
make an excellent point, but any landing on that granite would probably kill
me anyway ;
).
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: need help installing stereo in RV |
In a message dated 1/1/2001 12:27:11 PM Central Standard Time,
ac6qj(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< Look for a CD player with anti vibration features. This is simply a
large memory buffer that data is read into from the CD - ahead of
play time. If a skip occurs, the data discontinuity is detected in
the memory buffer and the data is stitched back together before play.
This is a common feature in portable CD players.
Ray Montagne
Cupertino, CA
>>
big thing isnt the memory as some players have high memory, but they don't
preform well with any vibration. I used to be in install car stereos,
compete all that good stuff. You want to look for one with atleast 3 seconds
of memory, but also one with great anti vibration design. There is a big
difference in what the different ones will take before they skip. Plus your
mounting of the unit will make a big difference to.
A good cd player should be 300-500 dollars or more. My last one for my car
was 900 but that was a Sony Mobile ES unit and they don't get any better.
Chris
F1 rocket builder
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Heater (was firewall) |
> I just added 7/16 springs to my muff's(Robbins). They fit great under
> the muff's and I wrap the pipe from flange to flange, I flew this
> afternoon and did notice a slight increase, but not as much as I hope.
> It only took an hour and cost about 6 bucks for the springs at Home
> Depot.
The archives contain some discussion about the springs rubbing
against the stainless steel exhaust pipe, eventually leading to holes in
the exhaust. For that reason, I used S.S. pot scrubber wool.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
"Don't throw your vote away...
Let the Supreme Court throw it away for you."
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Don,
I agree with you that in principle a separate grounding system is
superior. At the company where I work as an avionics engineer we have to
pay a lot of attention to grounding because all our equipment is digital
and it has to pass rigorous HIRF and lightning testing. The point I made
earlier was specifically regarding the use of airframe ground in the
wings, presumably for nav lights or landing lights. Back when I turned
wrenches as an A&P, I worked for a flight school with a fleet of about 20
aircraft (mix of Piper, Cessna, and Beechcraft). We very rarely
experienced problems with airframe grounds in the wings. Some of the
aircraft were several decades old and had 15,000 hours on the airframe.
I can remember once or twice having a nav light become intermittent. It
was about a 1 minute fix......unscrew the ground from the airframe, rub
it a couple times with scotchbrite, and it was good to go for another two
or three decades.
My only point is, if you are running critical equipment like fly-by-wire
servos in your wing and you're planning to fly around lightning, your
grounding scheme becomes very important. For landing lights and nav
lights.....airframe ground is more than sufficient. Your 'critical'
stuff in an RV is generally in the panel where it's easy to run
everything to a common ground, so the really important equipment is taken
care of anyway. For lights in the wings, you can probly stand to have
one go out every ten years or so, do the one minute fix.......and save
yourself the effort/weight/time/cost of installing separate ground wires.
And as you said, "your choice."
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage
-------------------------------
>From: "Don Winters" <dtw_rv6(at)yahoo.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Van's Alternator -> airframe ground
>
>
>Aluminum Oxide is a better insulator than glass! That is why aluminum
wire
>is no longer used for residential wiring. If it is used at all for an
>electrical connection, the connection is coated with an anti-corrosive
>compound, and sealed from the elements.
>
>Can you use the frame as a ground? Sure. I'll bet we have plenty of
planes
>out there like that. What is the most reliable connection? A separate
>grounding system.
>
>Your choice.
>
>Don Winters
>Wings
>http://www.geocities.com/dtw_rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
http://dailynews.yahoo.com/h/ap/20010101/en/troy_hartman_2.html
====
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "skybolt-aviator" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Good post-Did Imiss all the thoughtful solutions? |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Berryhill" <dwberryhill(at)home.com>
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 10:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Good post-Did Imiss all the thoughtful solutions?
> The vent line runs down the gear leg and fuel dosn't run uphill.
> What do aerobatic planes use to keep from losing fuel when inverted?
>
> Dave Berryhill
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Heater (was firewall) |
. "I have always flown in shirtsleeves without gloves in my C172 and I am
trying to do the same in the RV6A." I guess I should have added that my
survival gear (warm coat, boots, gloves) is in the 6A baggage compartment.
I am able to take off and put on a heavy coat seated in the cockpit with the
canopy down. I hope I never have to do it inverted, after a flipped-over
landing. Having cut-down seats (level with horizontal member) makes it easy
for me to reach things on the floor of the baggage compartment even with my
relatively short arms.
My most important item in the survival kit is the cell phone!
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 26 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Date: Monday, January 01, 2001 8:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Heater (was firewall)
>
>
>Listers:
>
>I realize I live in a warm climate but I do believe trying to fly in winter
>in shirt sleeves may not be wise. Considering the consequences of a forced
>landing in winter weather I have always considered it the better part of
>valor to go ahead and wear boots and good jackets during winter weather.
>Maybe having a heater that is not so good forces us to dress appropriately
>for the weather outdoors in the season that we are flying.
>
>Larry Pardue
>Carlsbad, NM
>
>RV-6 N441LP Flying
>http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Van's Alternator |
BOB ALTERNATOR SPEED FORMULA: CRANK PULLEY DIA. (IN INCHES) DIVIDED BY
ALTERNATOR PULLEY (IN) TIMES ENGINE RPM EQUALS ALTERNATOR RPM REGARDS, TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob Reiff" <Reiff(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Cold weather starting |
For non-CPA members, we have a copy of the article on our web site.
Probably the best article I've seen on the effects of cold starts.
Bob Reiff
Reiff Preheat Systems
www.execpc.com/reiff
>One thing I've heard is that if you start a cold engine and it fires then
>quits, the plugs frost over, making subsequent start attempts very
>difficult. The solution is to pre-heat. I've also heard that cold starting
a
>newly-rebuilt engine is worse than an old one near TBO (tighter
clearances).
>There's a great pre-heat article at
>http://www.cessna.org/members/032tech.pdf . You have to be a Cessna Pilot's
>Association Member to get at it though.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob Reiff" <Reiff(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Heater (was firewall) |
I've also seen guys weld a whole bunch of threaded studs to the exhaust pipe
to increase the surface area for better heat transfer.
Bob Reiff
Reiff Preheat Systems
www.execpc.com/reiff
>The archives contain some discussion about the springs rubbing
>against the stainless steel exhaust pipe, eventually leading to holes in
>the exhaust. For that reason, I used S.S. pot scrubber wool.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Subject: | Re: Good post-Did Imiss all the thoughtful solutions? |
Dave Berryhill wrote:
>
>
> > >
> > >The check valves we use in race cars are of two types. First there
> > >are the ones which are spring
> > >loaded slightly to ensure that hay close in all attitudes. Secondly
> > >there are ones which have a free
> > >floating ball and are therefore closed by gravity.
>
> What do aerobatic planes use to keep from losing fuel when inverted?
>
> Dave Berryhill
>
On RV's with belly vents, when you're inverted, the vent is
above the tank...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Subject: | Re: Van's Alternator -> airframe ground |
Don Winters wrote:
>
>
> Aluminum Oxide is a better insulator than glass! That is why aluminum wire
> is no longer used for residential wiring. If it is used at all for an
> electrical connection, the connection is coated with an anti-corrosive
> compound, and sealed from the elements.
>
> Can you use the frame as a ground? Sure. I'll bet we have plenty of planes
> out there like that. What is the most reliable connection? A separate
> grounding system.
>
> Your choice.
>
> Don Winters
Actually, al wire is still used regularly in houses for
service input wiring (the really big stuff from the meter to
the breaker box). The real problem in houses was that the
soft al wire would deform with heat/pressure/vibration when
used with connectors designed for copper. Loose, high
resistance, high heat connections & fires resulted.
Outlets/switches/etc are now available which work fine with
the smaller guage al, but there's now such a large body of
old wives' tales about al wire that everyone, including
regulatory bodies, believe it's unsafe (except for the
really big stuff where copper is so expensive; then it's ok
:-)).
Relevance to a/c: almost anything can be safe, or dangerous,
or be reliable, or unreliable, based on how well you
understand its characteristics.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Battery Source |
In a message dated 1/1/01 6:09:21 PM Pacific Standard Time,
zilik(at)bewellnet.com writes:
> Don't know nothin about the Panasonic battery but I'll sure go to bat for my
> Oddessy. Twice the master has been left on and the battery drained to less
> than
> .5 volt. Charge it back up and it is like new. Try that with a lead acid
> battery.
> Sort of pricy at 150 bucks but Batteries Plus had them on sale awhile back
> for
> 100 bucks.
Gary, I thought the Oddysey was a lead acid battery. If not, then what is it?
Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | anybody etching w/sodium hydroxide? |
As I recall, the PPG aluminum cleaning/conditioning product I used contained
phosphoric acid. Too bad I didn't know about this cheaper source at the
time!
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ 60-hrs
Pearland, Texas
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Berryhill [mailto:dwberryhill(at)home.com]
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 8:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: anybody etching w/sodium hydroxide?
>
> Listers,
>
> An A/P freind of mine, who is in the process of restoring a old Cessna
> 120 that had a lot of corrosion problems, is using a product from Home
> Depot called PH-OSPHO-RIC Plus +. It's a phosperic acid based product
> that etches the alum very nicely. Sold in gallons, very inexpensive, and
> easily obtainable.....
>
> Fred Stucklen
> RV-6A ( 1670 Hrs in 7.5+ Yrs)
> N925RV
Are you sure he's not using it on steel parts? Phosphoric acid solutions
are usually used to remove rust and etch steel.
Dave Berryhill
No RV (yet!)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Heat shield paint for cowl |
I tried something a little different trying to reduce the heat seen by the
cowling. Understand, I only have a few hours of time on the fix, but it
seems to be holding up so far. I cleaned the inside (lower half only) of my
cowling and sprayed 3M contact cement on the area I wanted to protect. Then
I unrolled some aluminum foil and "wallpapered" it onto the inside surface.
make sure to put the shiny side toward the engine for maximum reflectivity.
It went on pretty well... take your time and smooth it on carefully. After
trimming the edges, it turned out looking pretty good. time will tell if
the glue will hold up under the heat. Hopefully, it will still hold after
"baking out". If not, I guess I'll be sanding it all off and painting
later. But as easy as this was to install, it's worth the gamble.
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ 60-hrs
Pearland, Texas
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com [mailto:Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com]
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 8:36 PM
Subject: RV-List: Heat shield paint for cowl
Can anyone recommend a good heat shield paint for the area of the cowl that
is closest to the exhaust? I would like to do this before my cowl gets
coated with oil.
Thanks,
Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( finishing up cowl install )
O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Battery Source |
> Gary, I thought the Oddysey was a lead acid battery. If not, then what is
it?
>
> Kevin
Kevin,
This is an exerpt from one of Bob Nuckolls emails. The Odyssey is another
name for the Hawker Genesis.
Ross
"The Odyssey is not a dry cell, it has liquid water and
sulphuric acid in it. It's also a lead-acid battery.
It requires no special attention in terms of voltage
regulation.
see http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/rg_bat.html
The majority of my builders are using a 17 a.h. recombinant gas
batteries which which can be found on hte following links.
These batteries can be purchased from a variety of battery
specialty shops. We have some little convenience store sized
Battery Patrols around Wichita that handle these batteries
for $60-70 each.
Hawker: Check out the first 6 batteries on this page . . .
http://www.hepi.com/products/genesis/genprod.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Winged Camlocks |
Thanks everybody, I was looking in an old ACS catalog.....Norman..... Do not
archive ...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rpflanze(at)iquest.net |
Subject: | Heat shield paint for cowl |
Been there, done that.
I tried the aluminum foil route, but it turned out to be very fragile. I attached
it using some high temp white glue from Aircraft $pruce. I ended up using the
glue to attach some fiberfrax to the bottom of the cowl where the exhaust comes
close to the scoop edges.
The fiberfrax is scorched, but the cowl paint (outside) is fine so it looks
like it is doing it's job. I know that the fiberfrax will absorb fluids so
care must be taken to avoid oil and fuel spills on it.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 Indianapolis (110 hours)
>
>I tried something a little different trying to reduce the heat seen by the
>cowling. Understand, I only have a few hours of time on the fix, but it
>seems to be holding up so far. I cleaned the inside (lower half only) of my
>cowling and sprayed 3M contact cement on the area I wanted to protect. Then
>I unrolled some aluminum foil and "wallpapered" it onto the inside surface.
>make sure to put the shiny side toward the engine for maximum reflectivity.
>It went on pretty well... take your time and smooth it on carefully. After
>trimming the edges, it turned out looking pretty good. time will tell if
>the glue will hold up under the heat. Hopefully, it will still hold after
>"baking out". If not, I guess I'll be sanding it all off and painting
>later. But as easy as this was to install, it's worth the gamble.
>
>Bryan Jones -8 765BJ 60-hrs
>Pearland, Texas
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com [mailto:Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com]
>Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 8:36 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Heat shield paint for cowl
>
>
>Can anyone recommend a good heat shield paint for the area of the cowl that
>is closest to the exhaust? I would like to do this before my cowl gets
>coated with oil.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jim Andrews
>RV-8A ( finishing up cowl install )
>O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
>N89JA reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Heater (was firewall) |
> I realize I live in a warm climate but I do believe trying to fly in
winter
> in shirt sleeves may not be wise. Considering the consequences of a
forced
> landing in winter weather I have always considered it the better part of
> valor to go ahead and wear boots and good jackets during winter weather.
> Maybe having a heater that is not so good forces us to dress appropriately
> for the weather outdoors in the season that we are flying.
Hey, Larry: For a deep south kind of guy you know winter weather really
well. However, I would plan on a good heater - and rely on some discipline
to fly with a cockpit that is slightly cool. I'm from Northern Ontario. I
think that you should drive and fly with boots designed for winter as well
as a winter coat and with winter gloves nearby. A heavier coat can be put
in the baggage area for use after landing. If you step off the plane (into
very few inches of snow) with street shoes you will find that your situation
will deteriorate very quickly. Any northern highway cop can tell you a
number of tragic stories about this - on major, well-travelled highways.
I worked in balmy St. Louis for awhile. A person used to have his wife drive
him to work - on the busy outer belt. She wore pyjamas and slippers. Once,
in a storm the oil light came on. She drove home to avoid the cold and
embarrassment. Too bad - it WAS a nice car. Remember - not all flights
terminate according to plan.
Ernest Kells
RV-9A - Building Wings, Planning: O-235 Wood Prop
Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Heater (was firewall) |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Heater (was firewall)
Thread-Index: AcB0g8iT/i3AxJ1pRX+VcxFw1vL0xgAUk+UA
From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Originally, I had one Robbins heat muff in my bird. It put out very
little heat on its own. Around 30 degrees OAT I could see my breath
while flying and had to wear a jacket and gloves. The inlet to the heat
muff is located low on the passenger side back baffle, on the angled
portion. The cylinder head helps preheat the air a little, but not
much. The floor and forward fuse behind the panel is completely
insulated. Also have the aileron pushrod boots installed which were
quite effective in cutting down the draft that was coming up through the
seat belt anchors. It didn't take much flying to figure out that air
coming up through there was directed at the wrong area of my anatomy.
Tried the pot scrubbers--did nothing for me except slow the air down.
No discernable increase in heat output. Tried springs and those didn't
work at all either.
I added a second heat muff in series with the first and it was a big
improvement. I only have little over an hour on the new setup, but the
day I tested on it was about 20 degrees outside and I was comfortable
with the heat on full-blast. Still, too much is never enough, so the
system can use some improvement.
A local RV-4 driver has the 4-pipe Vetterman exhaust, and his heat muff
wraps around two of the pipes. He never opens it fully. My opinion is
the problem revolves around the volume inside the muff not being large
enough to be effective given the amount of flow required to effectively
heat the cockpit (cfm's). If you slow down the flow, the air
temperature of the incoming air will rise but the heat system won't keep
up with the amount of heat/air escaping the cockpit. If the muffs were
larger in diameter I think they would be much more effective. I live
near Indianapolis and in our midwestern climate two heat muffs are a
must. If I get some more time to investigate I'm thinking about
building a muff that wraps around both of the crossover pipes in front
underneath the front cylinders.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 64 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | barry <bpote(at)erols.com> |
Subject: | torque ..inch pounds |
I, once again, am a little confused.
Some of the screws and bolts I am installing call for 5-10 INCH pounds
of torque.
My Snap-On man says no one uses torque wrenches that read that low.
He can problably find them at around $275.
What are people doing for these low settings?
Barry Pote RV9a WINGS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Subject: | Re: ejection seat |
Norman Hunger wrote:
>
>
> > Well.....maybe I rethink the ejection seat in my RV after reading this
> > story
> > http://www.gallagher.com/ejection_seat/
> > Happy NewYear folks, may all your future landings be happy landings
>
> I thought that there was a company in the States making or marketing a
> lightweight ejection seat designed for the high end acro crowd for $38,000
> USD. Haven't seen the ad in awhile though. Do not
> archive.......Norman........
>
A friend who's an aero engineer & flys a Yak tells me that
the Russians are marketing one for around $10k.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: torque ..inch pounds |
inch pounds is correct. i bought a $375.00 torque wrench dial type, i will
let you borrow it if you send it right back. i'll be needed it again soon.
scott reviere
tampa rv6a finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
The engine failed but he was able to taxi 3 miles to the airport? Hmmm....
Re-enacts stunts he has seen on music videos? Hmmm.....
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bowen [mailto:lcbowen(at)yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 5:08 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Palmdale RV-4
http://dailynews.yahoo.com/h/ap/20010101/en/troy_hartman_2.html
====
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RGray67968(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Heater (was firewall) |
Listers,
Thanks for all the replies to my firewall questions. I have since mounted
the single muff on the right side. It wraps the Vetterman exhaust just above
the "ball joint" (per the plans but this bothers me as another part of the
plans said that the joint is "made to leak a bit"...........I may rethink
this), which means it will capture the heat from #1 & #3 cyls. The muff is
small and it doesn't "look like" I'm going to get the heat I want (again,
read "I like it Hot"). I figure I'll add another muff on the left side and
call it a winner. It really helps to get "first hand" experience. Thanks
again.
Rick Gray RV6QB (Ohio) Still snowed in at the Buffalo Farm but the buffalo
couldn't care less!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | barry <bpote(at)erols.com> |
Subject: | Re: torque ..inch pounds |
Thank you very much for the very generous offer, but I try not to borrow
tools. "I believe that, Neither a borrower nor lender be, for loan oft
loses both itself and friend." from Hamlet
Someone said they bought one at Sears for $75.
Thanks again for the generous offer.
Barry
ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> inch pounds is correct. i bought a $375.00 torque wrench dial type, i will
> let you borrow it if you send it right back. i'll be needed it again soon.
> scott reviere
> tampa rv6a finishing
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Berryhill" <dwberryhill(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Palmdale RV-4 |
> Re-enacts stunts he has seen on music videos? Hmmm.....
>
Hey, it's a living!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Berryhill" <dwberryhill(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: torque ..inch pounds |
>
> Someone said they bought one at Sears for $75.
>
I looked around for a fairly inexpensive in-lb torque wrench for rifle
actions and found a micrometer-style wrench at my local Pep Boys auto parts
store for less than that. Of course it's an import and probably isn't
"aircraft" quality.
Dave Berryhill
No RV (yet!)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Wing Cam-Locks |
> Norman--
>
> Please re-think using those things. All the ones I've seen look
> ugly/horrible/yucky/out-of-place on an otherwise well-built aircraft.
>
I hear what you're saying and I agree. My oil door will have a stainless
steel Hartwell latch like Laird's.
I am currently building a long skinny tray for 4 fuse blocks. I will mount
this tray with hinge all the way along it's forward edge. The rear edge will
be five inches back from the lower bottom edge of the instrument panel. I
want to secure this edge with a few of the winged Camlocks. I will not be
able to see them but they are very easy to operate by feel. I can easily
reach them by just leaning forward. The whole tray would then be some what
accessible in flight or just very easily when on the ground.
"It's a plan, maybe not a great plan, but it is a plan."
So much fun, so little time.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
Somewhere on the net I came across aan avi file of a roll in an RV. Now I
can't remember where it was. Can anybody point me in the right direction?
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Heat shield paint for cowl |
From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
01/02/2001 05:48:54 PM
Many thanks to all that replied to this query.
I have decided to go the 1/16 inch Fiberfrax route bonded to the cowl with
a layer of West Systems epoxy resin and use high temp automotive paint to
seal it all. This way the Fiberfrax will protect the exterior paint while
being sealed against oil by the automotive paint. Best of both worlds with
a little insurance thrown in for good measure.
Thanks,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( cowling )
O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: RE: [rv8list] Canopy frame fitting trouble |
>
>I haven't ordered my finish kit yet, I need to do it soon, and was wondering
>if I should have my canopy frame in hand when I go to fit the roll bar? I
>heard it may have to be bent in order for it to fit correctly, and I want it
>to match the canopy frame as closely as possibly right?
>
>Also, I made great progress on my -8A over the holiday break, lots of new
>stuff can be seen on my website: http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
>Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
Well, the roll bar has to be bent to fit the width of the fuselage.
I got lucky and mine was only 1/16" narrow, which took just about
zero force to hold in place, so I didn't have to bend it at all. The
canopy frame is bent to fit the fuselage width too. I had to squeeze
mine about 1/8 with a strap clamp. It was a bit stressful when I was
doing it, as I had to squeeze it in over 3.5" to get it to take a 1/8
set once it sprung back. Tonight's task is to spread it out a bit
near the back of the cockpit, and to bend the aft bow down.
Have fun,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Berryhill" <dwberryhill(at)home.com> |
Being a newbie here, I'm curious why everyone tags their messages with "No
Archive." If no one archives their messages, doesn't that mean that people
have to ask the same questions over and over again, instead of being able to
find the info in the archives?
Dave Berryhill
No RV (yet!)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
Subject: | Heat shield paint for cowl |
Another cleaner option is to have the tubes ceramic coated.
wilson, rv4
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com [mailto:Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 3:48 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Heat shield paint for cowl
Many thanks to all that replied to this query.
I have decided to go the 1/16 inch Fiberfrax route bonded to the cowl with
a layer of West Systems epoxy resin and use high temp automotive paint to
seal it all. This way the Fiberfrax will protect the exterior paint while
being sealed against oil by the automotive paint. Best of both worlds with
a little insurance thrown in for good measure.
Thanks,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( cowling )
O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "elizabeth lincoln" <curby1(at)shianet.org> |
Subject: | Re: Heater (was firewall) |
Dennis
you might be surprised at what springs in the heat muff will do. I
completely rapped the area of exhaust pipe inside the heat muff and couldn't
believe the difference
Andy
----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis Persyk <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 8:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Heater (was firewall)
>
> I have two Robins Wings heat muffs in series in my 6A. With the sun
shining
> brightly and 10 F OAT it is very warm in the cockpit: 65 F monitored near
> the canopy at F621A. I have to turn down the heat.
>
> Under a broken sky at 5 F OAT three hours before sunset, it was 55 F near
> the canopy; 15 minutes before sunset it dropped to 45 F in the cockpit
near
> the canopy. There is a Radio Shack indoor/outdoor thermometer Velcro'ed
to
> the F621A with the outdoor probe near the wing tip in undisturbed air.
I've
> not yet flown at night, but I'm sure it would not be comfortable for me
for
> long with 5-10 F OAT. The greenhouse effect from the canopy in bright
> sunlight is impressive. I have always flown in shirtsleeves without
gloves
> in my C172 and I am trying to do the same in the RV6A.
>
> My heater mixer valve (VENT DL-01) is on the right lower firewall. It has
a
> PVC 90 deg elbow with a 1-inch hole bored in it to allow some air to the
> passenger side. The rest of the air goes through a two-inch scat and is
> dumped behind the pilot's rudder pedals. My feet are always warm.
>
> I have a few leaks from around the eyeball vents (Van's black ones). The
> ram air pressure from the NACA vents is astounding! Little 0.020 wide
slots
> leak a lot of air! I seem to have no canopy leaks whatever (tip up) and
I
> don't think I have any leaks from the wing attach area. I love winter
flying
> so I installed the two muffs and I would like even more heat, but so far
> what I have obtained is marginally adequate.
>
> I don't understand the physics of the springs (because the area of the
> spring represents less than 1% of the heat muff or pipe area) so I haven't
> tried them. On our last flight I experimented with reducing the air flow
> with the internal damper (I have the mixer/flow restrictor gadget) to see
if
> a reduced flow volume of hotter air was better -- I didn't notice a big
> difference but I need to take more data.
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 26 hours
> Hampshire, IL C38
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Don Eaves <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, January 01, 2001 6:15 PM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Firewall
>
>
> >
> >
> >"Is a single heat muff adequate (read "I like it hot")"
> >
> >NO! With 2 muffs & 1/2 springs added inside for heat risers - It was
still
> >cold, Cold Cold! OAT 20F I'm going to try routing the air from one muff
> >into the other then into the aircraft. I like it HOT also... If that
don't
> >work I will slow down the air flow into the muffs...
> >
> >"Where is the best place to penetrate the firewall, left/right/high/low"
> >
> >I ran mine through the right side in front of the passengers feet - I
used
> >the other valve - "Stainless" (On/Off - Hot/Cold) and placed it on the
> right
> >because of summer operations when I can turn it full cold because my #1
> >passenger "My Wife" likes it Cold Cold Cold In the Summer.
> >
> >Anyway I will keep the list posted on my efforts to heat up my RV this
> >winter...
> >
> >From several RVs here - They suffer from cold feet in the winter as
well -
> >So I hope to solve this for those who desire to fly when it is cold &
Sever
> >Clear...
> >
> >Don
> >RV6 Flying
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Heater (was firewall) |
> My most important item in the survival kit is the cell phone!
>
Many barren areas have no cell coverage, so be aware. Your handheld com is
probably better all around for emergencies, as some airliner is likely to
hear you.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | barry <bpote(at)erols.com> |
Subject: | Re: torque ..inch pounds |
Thanks for the input.
Barry
Dave Berryhill wrote:
>
>
> >
> > Someone said they bought one at Sears for $75.
> >
>
> I looked around for a fairly inexpensive in-lb torque wrench for rifle
> actions and found a micrometer-style wrench at my local Pep Boys auto parts
> store for less than that. Of course it's an import and probably isn't
> "aircraft" quality.
>
> Dave Berryhill
> No RV (yet!)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Donald R. Eaves" <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com> |
Subject: | Heater (was firewall) |
I have springs in the 2 muffs -
Today I ran the 2 heat muffs into each other and did a 30 min check flight -
OAT about 29F and I got an increase in heat I need to do some stream lining
of the 2 inch scat hose to see if I can get some more volume, lost when I
had both muffs with separate air inlets routed into the heat valve.
Still Searching for Hotter Air
Don Eaves
RV6 Flying
Dennis
you might be surprised at what springs in the heat muff will do. I
completely rapped the area of exhaust pipe inside the heat muff and couldn't
believe the difference
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Donald R. Eaves" <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com> |
Subject: | Heater (was firewall) |
Bob - What Was The Results?
Don Eaves
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bob Reiff
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 10:09 AM
Subject: RV-List: Heater (was firewall)
I've also seen guys weld a whole bunch of threaded studs to the exhaust pipe
to increase the surface area for better heat transfer.
Bob Reiff
Reiff Preheat Systems
www.execpc.com/reiff
>The archives contain some discussion about the springs rubbing
>against the stainless steel exhaust pipe, eventually leading to holes in
>the exhaust. For that reason, I used S.S. pot scrubber wool.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Riley <richard(at)riley.net> |
Subject: | Re: Heater (was firewall) |
Check out the new 406 MhZ ELT's. I adapted mine from a boating unit, but
the aviation units are getting cheaper. Even without the GPS interface
working, it's MUCH more accurate than the old ones.
http://www.artex.net/
www.sarsat.noaa.gov
>
>> My most important item in the survival kit is the cell phone!
>>
>
>
>Many barren areas have no cell coverage, so be aware. Your handheld com is
>probably better all around for emergencies, as some airliner is likely to
>hear you.
>
>Alex Peterson
>Maple Grove, MN
>6A
>
>
>------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
>
>
Richard Riley
Renaissance Composites
3025 Airport Ave
Santa Monica, CA 90405
310.391.1943
www.berkut.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Baker" <bakerje(at)kfalls.net> |
Sunday afternoon was warm (47) and sunny here in southern Oregon. A
friend of mine owns a Starduster II with a fuel injected engine. After
trying to start it without success he waited a few minutes and tried
again, over priming and a back fire started a fire that resulted in all
of the lower fuselage burned along with the left lower wing. By the time
the airport Fire trucks arrived My friends had used up all of his fire
extinguisher and was spraying water trying to knock down the flames. As
the first water hit his plane from the fire truck his left tire blew
from being on fire. He suffer no injuries that I know of so he can
repair the aircraft, unfortunately he had no insurance on his Airplane.
Just thought I would pass this on "for what it is worth".
Hope this might save someone else from the same thing.
Jim Baker
N513J RV-4
*$&
%@# fiberglass
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | rv-4 Cowl question. |
I have my top cowl drilled in place and am now starting with the lower cowl
and cheek extensions. Is there a set vertical demension for the seam between
the upper and lower cowls? I have the airframe leveled and assume the seam
is to be parallel with the top longerons, but where? The plans also say to
level the cheek extensions, but how do you draw the center line through them?
am I missing a drawing somewhere (again). Any words of wisdom here would be
appreciated. FWIW, If I could start over I would have paid the extra for
the epoxy cowl -- I stored my polyester cowl for about 8 months and had a lot
of warpage.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Subject: | ELT [was Heater (was firewall)] |
Cool. So what kind of "adaptations" did you have to make? Is Mr FAA
inspector man going to like it?
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Riley
> Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 9:52 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Heater (was firewall)
>
>
> Check out the new 406 MhZ ELT's. I adapted mine from a boating unit, but
> the aviation units are getting cheaper. Even without the GPS interface
> working, it's MUCH more accurate than the old ones.
>
> http://www.artex.net/
> www.sarsat.noaa.gov
> [snip]
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
Subject: | Re: rv roll movie |
Here's another one:
http://www.rotaryaviation.com
Finn
Greg Tanner wrote:
>
> Somewhere on the net I came across aan avi file of a roll in an RV. Now I
> can't remember where it was. Can anybody point me in the right direction?
Shop Safely Online Without a Credit Card
http://www.rocketcash.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: ELT [was Heater (was firewall)] |
I'm not to this point yet, does everyone but me know what frequency is
Required for aviation use, I was under the impression what the 406 MhZ was
not approved based upon postings in the past.
Marty in Brentwood TN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 10:17 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: ELT [was Heater (was firewall)]
>
> Cool. So what kind of "adaptations" did you have to make? Is Mr FAA
> inspector man going to like it?
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 fuse
> Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> Web: http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Riley
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 9:52 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Heater (was firewall)
> >
> >
> >
> > Check out the new 406 MhZ ELT's. I adapted mine from a boating unit,
but
> > the aviation units are getting cheaper. Even without the GPS interface
> > working, it's MUCH more accurate than the old ones.
> >
> > http://www.artex.net/
> > www.sarsat.noaa.gov
> > [snip]
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | Re: Battery Source |
Listers: I have received my battery from Westco batteries. GR type
battery, small size, 22 AH, 350 CC. go to
https://www.westcobattery.com/harleydavidson.htm
I paid under $75.00. The company paid shipping!!!!! It is 1/3 the cost
than you need to?
David Aronson
RV4 N504RV
Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 1/1/01 6:09:21 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> zilik(at)bewellnet.com writes:
>
> > Don't know nothin about the Panasonic battery but I'll sure go to bat for my
> > Oddessy. Twice the master has been left on and the battery drained to less
> > than
> > .5 volt. Charge it back up and it is like new. Try that with a lead acid
> > battery.
> > Sort of pricy at 150 bucks but Batteries Plus had them on sale awhile back
> > for
> > 100 bucks.
>
> Gary, I thought the Oddysey was a lead acid battery. If not, then what is it?
>
> Kevin
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Subject: | Re: Heater (was firewall) |
Bob,
I have the Robbins muff with the crossover exhaust system too. My air inlet
is on the front ramp on the left side.The airbox is located high on the
passenger side of the firewall. I get LOTS of heat at 30 degrees OAT. I
don't know where you located your muff but if it's on the crossover pipe,
you're only getting heat from ONE cylinder. I mounted mine on the left side,
downstream from #4 which gives me heat from TWO cylinders. Might make a big
difference. No pot scrubbers...
Dave
Bob Japundza wrote:
>
> Originally, I had one Robbins heat muff in my bird. It put out very
> little heat on its own. Around 30 degrees OAT I could see my breath
> while flying and had to wear a jacket and gloves. The inlet to the heat
> muff is located low on the passenger side back baffle, on the angled
> portion. The cylinder head helps preheat the air a little, but not
> much. The floor and forward fuse behind the panel is completely
> insulated. Also have the aileron pushrod boots installed which were
> quite effective in cutting down the draft that was coming up through the
> seat belt anchors. It didn't take much flying to figure out that air
> coming up through there was directed at the wrong area of my anatomy.
>
> Tried the pot scrubbers--did nothing for me except slow the air down.
> No discernable increase in heat output. Tried springs and those didn't
> work at all either.
>
> I added a second heat muff in series with the first and it was a big
> improvement. I only have little over an hour on the new setup, but the
> day I tested on it was about 20 degrees outside and I was comfortable
> with the heat on full-blast. Still, too much is never enough, so the
> system can use some improvement.
>
> A local RV-4 driver has the 4-pipe Vetterman exhaust, and his heat muff
> wraps around two of the pipes. He never opens it fully. My opinion is
> the problem revolves around the volume inside the muff not being large
> enough to be effective given the amount of flow required to effectively
> heat the cockpit (cfm's). If you slow down the flow, the air
> temperature of the incoming air will rise but the heat system won't keep
> up with the amount of heat/air escaping the cockpit. If the muffs were
> larger in diameter I think they would be much more effective. I live
> near Indianapolis and in our midwestern climate two heat muffs are a
> must. If I get some more time to investigate I'm thinking about
> building a muff that wraps around both of the crossover pipes in front
> underneath the front cylinders.
>
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 64 hours
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
Subject: | Re: rv-4 Cowl question. |
Hello,
The cowling parting line should be in the area of 17 / 3/4" from the bottom
of the flat portion of the firewall flange. I think I remember finding this
measurement in the manual.
I just found it in the book, look in section 12 - 4 drawing SK-97
Jim in kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: <MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 8:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: rv-4 Cowl question.
>
> I have my top cowl drilled in place and am now starting with the lower
cowl
> and cheek extensions. Is there a set vertical demension for the seam
between
> the upper and lower cowls? I have the airframe leveled and assume the
seam
> is to be parallel with the top longerons, but where? The plans also say
to
> level the cheek extensions, but how do you draw the center line through
them?
> am I missing a drawing somewhere (again). Any words of wisdom here would
be
> appreciated. FWIW, If I could start over I would have paid the extra for
> the epoxy cowl -- I stored my polyester cowl for about 8 months and had a
lot
> of warpage.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
Subject: | Re: rv-4 Cowl question. |
Hello again,
I failed to read your subject line correctly the info regarding the cowling
parting line in my last post is for the RV6 series. My best guess is that
the info you seek will be located in the 4 manual in a similar area.
sorry about the slip,
jim in kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: <MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 8:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: rv-4 Cowl question.
>
> I have my top cowl drilled in place and am now starting with the lower
cowl
> and cheek extensions. Is there a set vertical demension for the seam
between
> the upper and lower cowls? I have the airframe leveled and assume the
seam
> is to be parallel with the top longerons, but where? The plans also say
to
> level the cheek extensions, but how do you draw the center line through
them?
> am I missing a drawing somewhere (again). Any words of wisdom here would
be
> appreciated. FWIW, If I could start over I would have paid the extra for
> the epoxy cowl -- I stored my polyester cowl for about 8 months and had a
lot
> of warpage.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | New Site Address |
Hi all,
To anyone that follows my website progress, I have changed servers and
therefore have a new domain name. Please update your favorite places
accordingly. The new site is located at:
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
Thanks,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage)
http://ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: rv-4 Cowl question. |
Thanks, will re-check my -4 manual, wouldn't be the second time I missed
something!
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Heat shield paint for cow |
From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
I was at the store this evening and saw some Rustoleum paint in a rattle
can for a few bucks that is "High Temp" stuff, supposed to be good to
1000 F. They advertise it for use on things like BBQ grills. They had
it in white and some sort of silver/metallic color as well. For a few
dollars it would be worth a try.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com [mailto:Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com]
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 8:36 PM
Subject: RV-List: Heat shield paint for cowl
Can anyone recommend a good heat shield paint for the area of the cowl
that
is closest to the exhaust? I would like to do this before my cowl gets
coated with oil.
Thanks,
Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( finishing up cowl install )
O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Subject: | Heat shield paint for cowl |
Listers,
I've been reading this thread for a while and with special interest.
When I did the annual inspection on my RV-6A, I found that the left
cowl had some delimination just under the area of the ball joint in the
Vetterman exhaust pipe. My cowl has automotive high temp paint on
it to protect it from oil penetration. The paint did its job of protecting
from penetration; but, it was obviously not designed to protect from
heat. The paint was perfect; but, the glass and honeycomb material
were scorched underneath. Fortunately, I was able to repair the
delamination without anything showing on the outside of the cowl.
I've temporarily used some aluminum tape to reflect some of the heat;
but, I really like the Fiberfrax idea. I'll be ordering some, shortly.
Thanks to Jerry about the danger of the fibers, too. I'll treat it like it
were asbestos.
In the beginning, I was really worried about how close the pipes
come to the cowl at the scoop edge. The damage I had was
forward of that starting at a point about 12" from the firewall and went
forward from there for about 8 inches. I have a muff on the right side
and didn't see any delamination. I didn't sand off the paint to look for
scorching. I'll do that when I apply the Fiberfrax.
This one I'll archive for others behind us. I think it's pretty important
stuff.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (80.1 on the tach.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: TMB1564(at)aol.com
Full-name: TMB1564
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 06:41:34 EST
Subject: rv4 cowl
Hi! This may be the solution to your problem, it is worth a look.
There is an excellent article in The RVator, December 95 "Builders Tips" --
How to install a cowl on an RV4 and RV3. If you don't have access to this
issue, please give me your fax number or your snail mail address and I will
send you a copy of the article.
Tom Benton (RV3-B)
Port St. Lucie, FL
561/466-3536
Hi! This may be the solution to your problem, it is worth a look.
There is an excellent article in The RVator, December 95 "Builders Tips" --
How to install a cowl on an RV4 and RV3. If you don't have access to this
issue, please give me your fax number or your snail mail address and I will
send you a copy of the article.
Tom Benton (RV3-B)
Port St. Lucie, FL
561/466-3536
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Reeves, Doug" <Douglas.Reeves(at)archongroup.com> |
Subject: | RV Insurance FAQ now online |
Hi listers,
J.T. Helms of NationAir (the Vanguard program) was nice enough to type out a
'Frequently Asked Questions' document containing all of the usual questions
people want answered. You can see a link to this FAQ in the top right
corner of the Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing web site.
He will also answer any questions pertaining to RV insurance posted on the
'Ask J.T.' message board (link next to FAQ).
Regards,
Doug Reeves
Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
www.vansaircraft.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
Subject: | Aileron Boot Pattern now on line... |
Listers,
I've posted a copy of my Aileron Push Rod Boot Pattern at the link listed
below. For those of you that still want to send me SASE's. I'll still
respond, but you now can print out your own copy...... If others with web
pages want to copy this file onto their web site, please feel free to do
so......
http://www.egroups.com/files/RV-6and6A/N925RV/Boot.tif
I'll add to the files in this folder as time permits. I have a print of a
short push/pull cable for those wanting to mount their elevator trim servo
on the aft empennage deck. I also plan on taking photos of that servo's
mounting bracket.
As I develop electrical schematics for the next RV-6(A) I'll also post
them.....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV (1675 hrs/7.5 Yrs)
E. Windsor, CT 06088
WK Email: stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com
Hm/Travel Email: wstucklen1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Heater (was firewall)
Thread-Index: AcB1S+M3ez6dIrk0S6Ked3w73BpjmwASAz/w
From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Dave, both of my heat muffs are on the exhaust pipes as yours is down by
the carb. My Vetterman cabin heat mixer is also located high on the
passenger side. The only difference I can see is your inlet being on
the front ramp. Hmmm.....doesn't make sense.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 64 hours
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave Bristol [mailto:bj034(at)lafn.org]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 12:20 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Heater (was firewall)
>
>
>
> Bob,
> I have the Robbins muff with the crossover exhaust system
> too. My air inlet
> is on the front ramp on the left side.The airbox is located
> high on the
> passenger side of the firewall. I get LOTS of heat at 30
> degrees OAT. I
> don't know where you located your muff but if it's on the
> crossover pipe,
> you're only getting heat from ONE cylinder. I mounted mine on
> the left side,
> downstream from #4 which gives me heat from TWO cylinders.
> Might make a big
> difference. No pot scrubbers...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
For those already flying (or at least further along than me). I have just
finished my seats and installed the seat adjustment hinges as per the plans.
Upon completion and installation of the seats, my wife and I sat in the plane
for the first time (using a little foam to simulate the seat upholstry).
My wife has short legs so I adjusted her seat on the most forward hinge and
mine was adjusted on the most aft (I'm 6'0") My question is this: Is there
really enough room between the control stick and your uhm...(well lets say
private parts????) to still fly the plane when the seat is in the most
forward adjustment?
I don't have the seat upholstry yet and the sticks are not installed yet, so
I thought I would ask some of you.
Thanks,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: mike seager / sun-n-fun |
dear listers,
i just received an e-mail from mike seager ( van's transition instructor ) .
he informed me that he will be conducting transition trainning 5 days prior
to this years sun - n - fun. acutally, he will train for 3 days, test fly my
rv6a on one day, and go deep sea fishing on one day. i coordinated his
schedule 2 years ago and it went pretty smoothly.
i am now looking for pilots that are current, and close to finishing there
rv, and would liked to be transitioned into the rv from mike the week prior
to sun-n-fun.
for all those interested please contact me off list to get details, & i can
start planning his schedule.
thanks
scott reviere
tampa rv6a finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob Reiff" <Reiff(at)execpc.com> |
A question - I notice some photos of the 8 have a carb air inlet on the
lower front cowling like the other RV's, but the photos on Van's web site
don't show that. The web site shows a smooth lower front cowling. Has the
cowling been changed to delete the air intake and if so, where is the carb
air inlet now located? Inside the cowling?
Bob Reiff
Reiff Preheat Systems
www.execpc.com/reiff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> |
I would really like to have a copy. My fax # is (505) 632-3911 please send
to Larry Hawkins as fax is in office building.
Larry Hawkins, RV-4, Farmington, NM. attaching empanage
-----Original Message-----
From: TMB1564(at)AOL.COM [mailto:TMB1564(at)AOL.COM]
Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 4:47 AM
Subject: RV-List: Fwd: rv4 cowl
From: TMB1564(at)aol.com
Full-name: TMB1564
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 06:41:34 EST
Subject: rv4 cowl
Hi! This may be the solution to your problem, it is worth a look.
There is an excellent article in The RVator, December 95 "Builders Tips" --
How to install a cowl on an RV4 and RV3. If you don't have access to this
issue, please give me your fax number or your snail mail address and I will
send you a copy of the article.
Tom Benton (RV3-B)
Port St. Lucie, FL
561/466-3536
Hi! This may be the
solution to your problem, it is worth a look.
There is an excellent article in The RVator, December 95 "Builders Tips"
--
How to install a cowl on an RV4 and RV3. If you don't have
access to this
issue, please give me your fax number or your snail mail
address and I will
send you a copy of the article.
Tom Benton (RV3-B)
Port St. Lucie, FL
561/466-3536
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <Scott.Wilder(at)sf.frb.org> |
Do I need to prime rivets after setting them, permissible to touch up
w/brush? i.e. spar and frames before skinning
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV8 question |
From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
01/03/2001 10:14:14 AM
>A question - I notice some photos of the 8 have a carb air inlet on the
>lower front cowling like the other RV's, but the photos on Van's web site
>don't show that. The web site shows a smooth lower front cowling. Has
the
>cowling been changed to delete the air intake and if so, where is the carb
>air inlet now located? Inside the cowling?
Bob,
Different engines, different cowling mods. My O-360 has the scoop to
accommodate the FAB air box. I'm doing the standard install for a stock
Van's engine configuration.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( cowling )
O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
Subject: | Re: Heater / Survival |
I think this is really important. There has been a lot of discussion on the
list about crash axes, on-board fire suppression, racing harnesses and the
like, but happens when/if you *survive* the forced landing? It would
certainly be ironic (and painful) to pull off a perfect forced landing only
to die of exposure.
It can be really easy to fly along at a big altitude with oxygen and good
cabin heat, marveling at your blistering cruise speed and miserly fuel flow,
only to forget how vulverable you still are to those big pointy mountains
below. I don't want to have to wear a heavy coat and boots on every flight,
but I sure would want them in the event of an emergency.
Standard fare in our RV (winter AND summer) are two sets of: very warm
snowmobile suits, pair of sweats, goggles, knit hat, and Gore-Tex ski
gloves. Also, one down sleeping bag that's just big enough for two. It
does take up a little room, but it isn't very heavy. I feel this is a
minimum exposure kit that is usually augmented by whatever clothes we bring
for wherever we happen to be going.
The next time you are doing you "what-if" scenario (remember your instructor
always asking you "What if you had an engine failure right here, where would
you go? What about now? Now?) add to it, what would you do after a
successful (or only semi-successful) landing?
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
ebundy(at)micron.net
> << I realize I live in a warm climate but I do believe trying to fly in
winter
> in shirt sleeves may not be wise. Considering the consequences of a
forced
> landing in winter weather I have always considered it the better part of
> valor to go ahead and wear boots and good jackets during winter weather.
> Maybe having a heater that is not so good forces us to dress
appropriately
> for the weather outdoors in the season that we are flying. >>
>
> I was considering this very notion yesterday as I was returning to
Livermore
> from Las Vegas over the towering Sierra at 14,500 ft. For about 20
minutes
> there's just no place to go in case of an emergency.
>
> We have good heaters vents (2) and I am usually just wearing my beat up
old
> A2 or Van's flight jacket with no consideration that we might go down.
You
> make an excellent point, but any landing on that granite would probably
kill
> me anyway ;
).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV8 question |
Bob Reiff wrote:
>
> A question - I notice some photos of the 8 have a carb air inlet on the
> lower front cowling like the other RV's, but the photos on Van's web site
> don't show that. The web site shows a smooth lower front cowling. Has the
> cowling been changed to delete the air intake and if so, where is the carb
> air inlet now located? Inside the cowling?
>
> Bob Reiff
> Reiff Preheat Systems
> www.execpc.com/reiff
Bob,
The smooth lower cowling is for the fuel-injected engines. No carb, no carb
air inlet on the cowling.
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
fabricating panel
www.egroups.com/files/bostonrvbuilders
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
Subject: | Re: torque ..inch pounds |
Both Harbor Freight Tools (http://www.harborfreight.com) and JC Whitney
carries 20 - 250 in-pounds for about $20.
Finn
barry wrote:
>
> I, once again, am a little confused.
> Some of the screws and bolts I am installing call for 5-10 INCH pounds
> of torque.
>
> My Snap-On man says no one uses torque wrenches that read that low.
> He can problably find them at around $275.
>
> What are people doing for these low settings?
>
> Barry Pote RV9a WINGS
>
Shop Safely Online Without a Credit Card
http://www.rocketcash.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
Subject: | Re: Aileron Boot Pattern now on line... |
Fred, thanks for posting the detailed drawing of your aileron Boot. I saw
something similar on Sam Buchanan's site a while back and was planning on
installing boots on my project. The *.tif file that you referenced is huge
at over 700K so I downsized it to a more manageable 75K JPG and put it on my
"Tips, Tricks and Ideas" page. The link for that page is here:
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/
For those interested, Dennis Persyk designed a nice mounting bracket that
relocates the elevator trim servo to the rear of the fuselage. Those
pictures can be seen on my ideas page as well. Follow the links in the
"recently updated" section.
Mike Nellis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 9:37 AM
Subject: RV-List: Aileron Boot Pattern now on line...
>
> Listers,
>
> I've posted a copy of my Aileron Push Rod Boot Pattern at the link
listed
> below. For those of you that still want to send me SASE's. I'll still
> respond, but you now can print out your own copy...... If others with web
> pages want to copy this file onto their web site, please feel free to do
> so......
>
> http://www.egroups.com/files/RV-6and6A/N925RV/Boot.tif
>
> I'll add to the files in this folder as time permits. I have a print of
a
> short push/pull cable for those wanting to mount their elevator trim servo
> on the aft empennage deck. I also plan on taking photos of that servo's
> mounting bracket.
>
> As I develop electrical schematics for the next RV-6(A) I'll also post
> them.....
>
> Fred Stucklen
> N925RV (1675 hrs/7.5 Yrs)
> E. Windsor, CT 06088
> WK Email: stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com
> Hm/Travel Email: wstucklen1(at)juno.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Seat Adjustment |
Hello Eric,
No. Not in mine with my Orndorff seats and my body. The front hinge is
worthless. I keep mine in the middle position because of my short legs & my
wife likes the seat all the way back.
Rick Caldwell
-6 182 hrs
Melbourne, FL
>From: ENewton57(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Seat Adjustment
>Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 10:02:31 EST
>
>
>For those already flying (or at least further along than me). I have just
>finished my seats and installed the seat adjustment hinges as per the
>plans.
>Upon completion and installation of the seats, my wife and I sat in the
>plane
>for the first time (using a little foam to simulate the seat upholstry).
>My wife has short legs so I adjusted her seat on the most forward hinge and
>mine was adjusted on the most aft (I'm 6'0") My question is this: Is
>there
>really enough room between the control stick and your uhm...(well lets say
>private parts????) to still fly the plane when the seat is in the most
>forward adjustment?
>
>I don't have the seat upholstry yet and the sticks are not installed yet,
>so
>I thought I would ask some of you.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
>RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage)
>http://www.ericsrv6a.com
>
>
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
Dear Listers,
Kevin Shannon recently posted good results with a Powersonic PS-12180 from
batteries.com. I visited the web site and they have 2 versions. One model
has "nb terminals" the other has "f2 terminals". Not sure of the
difference.
Kevin, are you out there. Maybe you could help. If not, suggestions from
others is greatly appreciated.
Best regards,
Don Mei
(Old bat can't take the cold weather here 9 deg F this morning)
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
Subject: | Color Moving Map |
Jerry,
The IPAQ will play MP3's while running Anywheremap software. The List Pro
software included with
the IPAQ is great for developing checklists as you can check items off with
a red checkmark
in a box, and then clear all boxes on command for the next time. I'm working
on developing the
checklists now and plan to include an Emergency Checklist.
I bought the IPAQ for the GPS use but find it a great little hand held
computer for
other tasks as well. It even has a voice recorder built in and a headphone
jack for
MP3's, etc. I own a Palm Pilot IIIxe as well, but the IPAQ is head and
shoulders above it.
They are hard to get, but Radio Shack can order them for you. It only took 2
weeks to get mine.
$499
Ed Cole
Maxim Integrated Products
Bldg. 120 Ext. 6605
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jerry Calvert [SMTP:rv6bldr(at)home.com]
> Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 12:22 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Color Moving Map
>
>
> I have also been considering the Compaq IPAQ setup. I don't know anything
> about the IPAQ, but I liked the capability of adding flight planning
> software, checklists, and whatever.
>
> Recently, there has been a thread on car stereos being installed in RV's.
> Hmmmm....wonder if the IPAQ has the capablility of playing MP3 audio files
> through the intercom while also running the Map Anywhere software? Would
> imagine it would need amplification, but there would be no skipping the
> beat!
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok
> -6 fuselage
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 1:47 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Color Moving Map
>
>
> >
> > In a message dated 1/1/01 11:10:27 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> > nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes:
> >
> > > I really like the Anywhere Map Compaq PDA but if I add something like
> this I
> > > would like a larger screen. (I can't find the actual screen size)
> > >
> > Norman, I am installing the compaq IPAQ version in the middle of my
> panel
> > flush mounted with room left over for a bigger screen when they become
> > available. Im predicting (hoping hard) laptops will be replaced soon
> with
> a
> > version sized somewhere in between the handheld and the current size
> laptop.
> > However the present size screen is easy to read when it is that close to
> your
> > face.
> > Kevin Shannon
> > -9A wiring and plumbing
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RV6A- Vision Engine instrumentation |
Listers.
Anyone using the VM1000, please tell me where you are mounting the data
processing unit.
Thanks.
Mike Garramone
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bert murillo <bertrv6(at)yahoo.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bert murillo <bertrv6(at)yahoo.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
Subject: | Re: Aileron Boot Pattern now on line... |
I found this file a bit large, so I converted it to GIF and put it on my
FTP server. You can download it from there,
ftp://www.vansairforce.org/McHenry.Tedd/
The file name is Boot.gif, and it's 13 kB (compared to 720 kB for the
original).
Tedd McHenry
Van's Air Force
Western Canada Wing
tedd(at)vansairforce.org
http://www.vansairforce.org
________________________________________________________________________________
Bob,
Ken's partially correct, it is for fuel-injected engines, specifically the
angle-valve IO360. It has a forward facing/horizontal injector but it still
needs an air inlet. The air is ducted to the injector thru a fiberglass
snorkel, from a filter mounted in the floor of the left side inlet ramp.
Van's sells the snorkel for the -8 and "other applications". I'm trying to
use in in my -6 with the acid test in about a month when my engine comes out
of the shop.
Regards,
Greg Young (Houston - DWH)
RV-6 N6GY systems & wiring
Bob Reiff wrote:
>
> A question - I notice some photos of the 8 have a carb air inlet on the
> lower front cowling like the other RV's, but the photos on Van's web site
> don't show that. The web site shows a smooth lower front cowling. Has
the
> cowling been changed to delete the air intake and if so, where is the carb
> air inlet now located? Inside the cowling?
>
> Bob Reiff
> Reiff Preheat Systems
> www.execpc.com/reiff
Bob,
The smooth lower cowling is for the fuel-injected engines. No carb, no carb
air inlet on the cowling.
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
fabricating panel
www.egroups.com/files/bostonrvbuilders
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
Subject: | Re: Seat Adjustment |
I would prefer to fly from the front hinge location, but my cushions
(Orndorff) don't allow enough room for the stick. I like the reclining
position more. As it is, I use the middle hinge. The rear hinge is too
upright for my portly physique.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 Indianapolis (110 hours)
>>My question is this: Is
> >there
> >really enough room between the control stick and your uhm...(well lets
say
> >private parts????) to still fly the plane when the seat is in the most
> >forward adjustment?
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Seat Adjustment |
most people I know dont even use the hinge they just
let the seat back rest against the aft roll bar and
use cushions as neccessary to bring them up to where
they feel comfortable.
--- "Randy J. Pflanzer" wrote:
>
>
> I would prefer to fly from the front hinge location,
> but my cushions
> (Orndorff) don't allow enough room for the stick. I
> like the reclining
> position more. As it is, I use the middle hinge.
> The rear hinge is too
> upright for my portly physique.
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G
> RV-6 Indianapolis (110 hours)
>
> >>My question is this: Is
> > >there
> > >really enough room between the control stick and
> your uhm...(well lets
> say
> > >private parts????) to still fly the plane when
> the seat is in the most
> > >forward adjustment?
> > >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net> |
Subject: | Re: Van's Alternator |
Good news - thanks Gary.
I talked with Niagara Airparts this morning. They have sold these
alternators for 4 - 5 years and have never had one returned. He said they
would "take care of" any problems if the unit was returned in a reasonable
time (1 - 1 1/2 years). The alternator comes with a 2 1/2" pulley and the
custom mounting kit comes with and is not discounted if it is unwanted.
I forgot to tell him that it will be a year before mine flies, but I'll deal
with that when the (unlikely) time comes.
Tom Barnes -6 O360 CS N442TB res
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2000 7:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's Alternator
>
>
> Goto http://www.niagaraairparts.com/ and go to the bottom right side of
the
> page. Niagara shows their 40 amp nippondenso alternator which comes with a
case
> or boss mounts.. Great little unit.
>
> Gary Zilik
>
> Ted Lumpkin wrote:
>
> >
> > I currently am installing the Van's alternator and am having second
> > thoughts. For those who purchased the Chevy Sprint alternator, what
bracket
> > did you use to mount it to the engine?
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
"nb" is for nut & bolt connection. "f2" is for a "faston" connection.
Dear Listers,
Kevin Shannon recently posted good results with a Powersonic PS-12180
from
batteries.com. I visited the web site and they have 2 versions. One
model
has "nb terminals" the other has "f2 terminals". Not sure of the
difference.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Seat Adjustment |
My wife uses the the front hinge when she is flying
left seat workds fine for her. However being to lazy
to change hinge position at times I find this a little
to cozy for myself.
Joe
RV6A 130 hrs
--- ENewton57(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> For those already flying (or at least further along
> than me). I have just
> finished my seats and installed the seat adjustment
> hinges as per the plans.
> Upon completion and installation of the seats, my
> wife and I sat in the plane
> for the first time (using a little foam to simulate
> the seat upholstry).
> My wife has short legs so I adjusted her seat on the
> most forward hinge and
> mine was adjusted on the most aft (I'm 6'0") My
> question is this: Is there
> really enough room between the control stick and
> your uhm...(well lets say
> private parts????) to still fly the plane when the
> seat is in the most
> forward adjustment?
>
> I don't have the seat upholstry yet and the sticks
> are not installed yet, so
> I thought I would ask some of you.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
> RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage)
> http://www.ericsrv6a.com
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Seat Adjustment |
My wife uses the the front hinge when she is flying
left seat workds fine for her. However being to lazy
to change hinge position at times I find this a little
to cozy for myself.
Joe
RV6A 130 hrs
--- ENewton57(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> For those already flying (or at least further along
> than me). I have just
> finished my seats and installed the seat adjustment
> hinges as per the plans.
> Upon completion and installation of the seats, my
> wife and I sat in the plane
> for the first time (using a little foam to simulate
> the seat upholstry).
> My wife has short legs so I adjusted her seat on the
> most forward hinge and
> mine was adjusted on the most aft (I'm 6'0") My
> question is this: Is there
> really enough room between the control stick and
> your uhm...(well lets say
> private parts????) to still fly the plane when the
> seat is in the most
> forward adjustment?
>
> I don't have the seat upholstry yet and the sticks
> are not installed yet, so
> I thought I would ask some of you.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
> RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage)
> http://www.ericsrv6a.com
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Riley <richard(at)riley.net> |
Subject: | MP3 player possibility. |
>
>Jerry,
>The IPAQ will play MP3's while running Anywheremap software. The List Pro
>software included with
>the IPAQ is great for developing checklists as you can check items off with
>a red checkmark
>in a box, and then clear all boxes on command for the next time. I'm working
>on developing the
>checklists now and plan to include an Emergency Checklist.
I intend to get an IPAQ with the control vision software soon, but I need
something else in that realm as well. What I want is the smallest,
simplest way of playing MP3's off a CD-ROM to feed into my intercom. 32
megs worth of MP3's are fine, but 600+ megs and cheap, exchangable media is
what I want. Anyone have a suggestion?
Richard Riley
Renaissance Composites
3025 Airport Ave
Santa Monica, CA 90405
310.391.1943
www.berkut.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV8 question |
Does the IO360 Angled Valve Engine fit into the RV6 - or do you have to go
with a diffrent cowl.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: MP3 player possibility. |
In a message dated 1/3/2001 4:47:35 PM Central Standard Time,
richard(at)riley.net writes:
<< I intend to get an IPAQ with the control vision software soon, but I need
something else in that realm as well. What I want is the smallest,
simplest way of playing MP3's off a CD-ROM to feed into my intercom. 32
megs worth of MP3's are fine, but 600+ megs and cheap, exchangable media is
what I want. Anyone have a suggestion? >>
aiwa makes a cd player radio for cars thats plays mp3s on cdrs. crutchfield
carries awia. Starts out at 129 up to 299. This looks like it will be the
choice for my f1 rocket when i get that far.
chris wilcox
f1 rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Battery Source |
I am just about to buy a battery and found this thread interesting. One
thing I would encourage folks to do is to look at the rated internal
resistance of these batteries. The Powersonic is listed at 15 milliohms
(http://www.power-sonic.com/12180.html) , the Panasonic is 12
(http://www.panasonic.com/industrial_oem/battery/battery_oem/images/pdf/lc-r
d1217p.pdf ) and the Oddysey/Genisis/Hawker is 7.5
(http://www.hepi.com/genprod.htm) . I have decided to buy the Hawker 16 amp
from my local Batteries Plus for $100.
Ross Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: rookie question |
> Do I need to prime rivets after setting them, permissible to touch up
> w/brush? i.e. spar and frames before skinning
Even though most of us do prime the interior parts, it really is overkill,
especially for a plane that will almost certainly spend its life in a nice
dry (if not warm) hangar. The exception to this might be coastal areas. In
any case I think its safe to say that priming the rivet heads could be
considered double overkill.
Randall
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Subject: | MP3 player possibility. |
There are a couple of different manufacturers out there that make these
devices but have you considered something along the lines of an Iomega
HipZip Digital Audio Player? It's small and holds 40 Meg per PocketZip
disk.
Read about it here: http://www.iomega.com/hipzip/index.html
<http://www.iomega.com/hipzip/index.html>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: CW9371(at)AOL.COM [mailto:CW9371(at)AOL.COM]
Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 3:02 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: MP3 player possibility.
In a message dated 1/3/2001 4:47:35 PM Central Standard
Time,
richard(at)riley.net writes:
<< I intend to get an IPAQ with the control vision software
soon, but I need
something else in that realm as well. What I want is the
smallest,
simplest way of playing MP3's off a CD-ROM to feed into my
intercom. 32
megs worth of MP3's are fine, but 600+ megs and cheap,
exchangable media is
what I want. Anyone have a suggestion? >>
aiwa makes a cd player radio for cars thats plays mp3s on
cdrs. crutchfield
carries awia. Starts out at 129 up to 299. This looks like
it will be the
choice for my f1 rocket when i get that far.
chris wilcox
f1 rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: Battery Source |
Ross Mickey wrote:
>
>
> I am just about to buy a battery and found this thread interesting. One
> thing I would encourage folks to do is to look at the rated internal
> resistance of these batteries. The Powersonic is listed at 15 milliohms
> (http://www.power-sonic.com/12180.html) , the Panasonic is 12
> (http://www.panasonic.com/industrial_oem/battery/battery_oem/images/pdf/lc-r
> d1217p.pdf ) and the Oddysey/Genisis/Hawker is 7.5
> (http://www.hepi.com/genprod.htm) . I have decided to buy the Hawker 16 amp
> from my local Batteries Plus for $100.
>
> Ross Mickey
>
After flying my RV-6 for 11 years I have been through the battery scene
more than I care to think about. I have tried the Sonics, Powersonics,
and various other wheelchair batteries and so called gel cells. To date
the best performing battery I have found is the plain old Concord RGB
battery that Van's sell. I can let my airplane sit for any length of time
and go out to fly and it well start every time. The other batteries would
always seem to lose power if they were left to sit for very long.
Jerry Springer
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
Subject: | Pressure testing oil and fuel hoses |
Does anyone have any neat ideas for pressure testing hoses? I'm thinking of
using a grease gun on one end of a hose and a pressure guage on the other
end. Then see if I can pump it up to 500 or 600 pounds using either grease
or some thick oil. Has anyone got a better idea?
Thanks in advance
Brian Eckstein
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV6A- Vision Engine instrumentation |
Behind the display on a 'U' shaped .040 bracket.
Bruce
Glasair III
N526ms(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Listers.
> Anyone using the VM1000, please tell me where you are mounting the data
> processing unit.
> Thanks.
> Mike Garramone
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Pressure testing oil and fuel hoses |
Trot them down to your local hydraulic shop and have them test them.
Bruce
Glasair III
BSEckstein(at)cs.com wrote:
>
> Does anyone have any neat ideas for pressure testing hoses? I'm thinking of
> using a grease gun on one end of a hose and a pressure guage on the other
> end. Then see if I can pump it up to 500 or 600 pounds using either grease
> or some thick oil. Has anyone got a better idea?
>
> Thanks in advance
> Brian Eckstein
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Aileron Boot Pattern now on line... |
I am working towards a really warm plane for winter flying. I was going to
build a pair of boots but so far I can't locate any air leaks associated
with the aileron push tube. I filled the vertical U-channels extending from
the U-channel extending from the F604 with foam per an RV-Ator or List tip
of a few years back. The velcroed stick boots from DJ complete the sealing
off of the offending source of cold air. When I visually inspect the sheet
metal covering in that area I don't see any obvious places for leaks. When I
fly I haven't felt any cold air leaks from that area either. For those that
have felt cold air coming in, where is coming in at? The only leaks I can
identify so far are from the NACA outside vent plumbing.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP still only 26 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org>
Date: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 3:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aileron Boot Pattern now on line...
>
>I found this file a bit large, so I converted it to GIF and put it on my
>FTP server. You can download it from there,
>
>ftp://www.vansairforce.org/McHenry.Tedd/
>
>The file name is Boot.gif, and it's 13 kB (compared to 720 kB for the
>original).
>
>Tedd McHenry
>Van's Air Force
>Western Canada Wing
>tedd(at)vansairforce.org
>http://www.vansairforce.org
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: Pressure testing oil and fuel hoses |
A hand grease gun will produce pressures up to 6000 psi according to my WW
Grainger catalog.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: <BSEckstein(at)cs.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 7:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: Pressure testing oil and fuel hoses
>
> Does anyone have any neat ideas for pressure testing hoses? I'm thinking
of
> using a grease gun on one end of a hose and a pressure guage on the other
> end. Then see if I can pump it up to 500 or 600 pounds using either
grease
> or some thick oil. Has anyone got a better idea?
>
> Thanks in advance
> Brian Eckstein
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Aileron Boot Pattern now on line... |
In a message dated 1/3/01 10:00:11 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
> The only leaks I can
> identify so far are from the NACA outside vent plumbing.
> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP still only 26 hours
> Hampshire, IL C38
>
>
Dennis,
A relatively decent looking way to seal off the leaks form the eyeball vents
is to make a press fit cap from the lid off plastic model spray paint. The
inside diameter of the lid fits nice and snug over the eyeball vent. You'll
want to trim the lid down to around an inch or so. I did this quite a few
years ago on my -6 so you'll want to double check the size of the lids just
in case they've changed recently.
As far as other air leaks, mine came from the edges of the seat pan around
the 604 bulkhead. Sounds like you have a good fix.
Rick McBride
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: RV6A- Vision Engine instrumentation |
In a message dated 1/3/01 11:12:12 AM Pacific Standard Time, N526ms(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< Anyone using the VM1000, please tell me where you are mounting the data
processing unit. >>
I mounted my DPU on the forward side of the 6A slider subpanel using two
Aeroflex isolators (stainless cable helix vibration isolators). I used the
headers on the wiring to make removal more staightforward.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | deltaB(at)erols.com |
Subject: | RMI Micromonitor MAP Sensor Manifold Pressure NAPA Wells Rocky |
Mountain monitor
I hope those are enough key words for later searches.
I may have found a replacement for the RMI MicroMonitor MAP sensor from
NAPA and GM. I have a Wells SU129 obtained locally from Autozone
http://www.autozone.com . It is a replacement for the GM 2 Bar MAP
sensor 16009886.
The reason I started this search was my NAPA device (CRB21963) is
defective and I wanted a quick replacement. I also like the idea of
hopefully scoping out an alternative. This one was 29usd.
The other problem with these 2 Bar sensors is the connector keyway is
different from the popular 1 Bar sensor so the easy to obtain
replacement MAP connector must be modified to fit. I just cut a slot in
it. It also looks like the sensor keyway may be removed, but I haven't
tried it.
The best part is, as far as I know, it works! When I plugged it in, I
got a reasonable pressure (unlike the other car's 1 Bar MAP which read
55inHg) indication. Being ~50ft, I dialed up ATIS and obtained an
indication of 30.2inHg, with the alt setting of 30.20inHg, and a
calibration factor of -5. Using a mityvac, I ran it up and down the
scale comparing 30.2 minus the vacuum gauge with the monitor
indication. It was within .2 to .4"Hg at all points. I wouldn't
exactly call the gauge on the mityvac a prime standard, but I liked the
repeatability and linearity. To actually call it "calibrated" I'd need
a better gauge that I'm probably not going to get.
I don't know if this has RMI's blessing or even knowledge. I'll have to
ask when I call to return the NAPA detector.
I don't think the RV list was the best place to post this, just the best
audience. If anyone knows of some RMI user group let me know.
Bernie
mailto:deltab(at)erols.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gordon Robertson <gordon(at)safemail.com> |
... But why do it the wrong way, even if it "might be ok for a decade
or so"? Aluminum contacts are not good, especially aluminum to a
di-similar material like nickel coated copper. They do corrode.
Anybody who carefully primes all the inner alclad surfaces of the skins
should certainly be careful of corrosion problems in the electrical
circuitry. The correct way is just one single 16 gauge wire for the
grounds for all the wing lights. It is easy, cheap, light and correct.
Gordon Robertson
RV-8 wings
For landing lights and nav
lights.....airframe ground is more than sufficient. Your 'critical'
stuff in an RV is generally in the panel where it's easy to run
everything to a common ground, so the really important equipment is
taken
care of anyway. For lights in the wings, you can probly stand to have
one go out every ten years or so, do the one minute fix.......and save
yourself the effort/weight/time/cost of installing separate ground
wires.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Pressure testing oil and fuel hoses |
Grease is not a good medium to use because of the cleanup problem afterwards. Must
faster, easier,
cleaner and safer to let your local hose assembly/hydraulics shop do it for you.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
Subject: | MP3 player possibility. |
I intend to get an IPAQ with the control vision software soon, but I need
something else in that realm as well. What I want is the smallest,
simplest way of playing MP3's off a CD-ROM to feed into my intercom. 32
megs worth of MP3's are fine, but 600+ megs and cheap, exchangable media is
what I want. Anyone have a suggestion?
try the neo 35 from ssi. it uses 3.5 inch standard hard drives, and retails
for about 219..effectively you could have a 20-30 gig MP3 player for 219
plus hd cost. if you get the remote display the neo will also act as a
changer with mounting out of site... it comes with two trays one for the
computer and one for the vehicle. when its in your computer it acts as an
additional hd.
http://www.think-box.com/neo35.html
Steven DiNieri
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: MP3 player possibility. |
In a message dated 1/3/2001 10:37:43 PM Central Standard Time,
capsteve(at)adelphia.net writes:
<< try the neo 35 from ssi. it uses 3.5 inch standard hard drives, and
retails
for about 219..effectively you could have a 20-30 gig MP3 player for 219
plus hd cost. if you get the remote display the neo will also act as a
changer with mounting out of site... it comes with two trays one for the
computer and one for the vehicle. when its in your computer it acts as an
additional hd.
http://www.think-box.com/neo35.html
Steven DiNieri
>>
I would be careful of anything using a standard harddrive in an airplane.
Several companies I know are developing computered based instruments for an
aircraft. They all ran into problems with the hardrives on the aircraft.
The inflight vibration, tubulence etc casued the drives to crash permantly in
short order.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Heater (was firewall) |
>I need to do some stream lining
> of the 2 inch scat hose
I want to use aluminum tubing as used in auto applications - very low weight
and quite smooth but I can only find it in 18 inch lengths. Anyone know of
a source of longer?
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK - signed off!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Heater (was firewall) |
>I need to do some stream lining
> of the 2 inch scat hose
I want to use aluminum tubing as used in auto applications - very low weight
and quite smooth but I can only find it in 18 inch lengths. Anyone know of
a source of longer?
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK - signed off!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Heater (was firewall) |
>I need to do some stream lining
> of the 2 inch scat hose
I want to use aluminum tubing as used in auto applications - very low weight
and quite smooth but I can only find it in 18 inch lengths. Anyone know of
a source of longer?
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK - signed off!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Question for RV6/6A Quickbuilders... |
KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Fellow Quickbuilders,
>
> Im getting ready to work on the wing and am wondering how you mounted your
> wing to work on it.
I took the advice of some one at Van's (Scott R. I think) and put a piece of
thick carpet on my work table and just set the wing on that. When it was time
to rivet the skin on, I put it in the wing cradle because it is more convenient
to do tha with the wing in a vertical position.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
Subject: | Re: Aileron Boot Pattern now on line...and another type in the |
works
Hello to the list,
Recently I took the time to re-invent the aileron pushrod seal idea.
Instead of making a cone style seal I made a bellows style. It took a bit of
trial and error but the outcome worked out very nice. They are now installed
( the wings are not on yet) and I have fitted a short length of tube to test
the fit and operation. They move silently with out interfering with the feel
of the controls at all. The material is under very little stress and
therefore I expect they should not fail due to wear for quite some time.
I have some pictures of the proto types that are as yet undeveloped. The
roll is all but finished and will be developed soon.
These bellows type seals are definitely more work, cutting and sewing, but
the results seem to please others that have seen them and of course I'm
happy with them.
If you find this seal idea interesting email me off line
Jim in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <Gary.Fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
Subject: | Heater / Survival |
Considering the consequences of a forced landing in winter weather
I dress appropriately to the weather outside when I fly and I carrry a
survival kit in my aircraft. I actually have two survival kits. I have a
big one (that weighs more) when I am flying by myself and a little one when
I am flying close to gross weight. I've been through Survival school so
yeah, I think I can start a fire with a stick and a shoe string, but just in
case, I have waterproof matches, first aid items, a couple of space
blankets, plastic bags, a few knives, magnesium fire starter, fishing line
plus more. After you graduate from the school and hear about the successes
and failures of surviving out in the wild sometimes just a few items and
more importantly common sense can make the difference.
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Battery Source |
01/04/2001 09:01:00
I recall Elect. Bob telling us that the internal resistance (that you
noted in your post) is more of a function of the internal design of the
battery itself then the health or power delivery capability of a battery.
RG, flooded cell, glass matt, gell cell, wet cell, dry cell ....all
variations on a theme......all have different cell design, hence internal
resistance differences......Is Elect Bob. avail for comment ...????
"Ross Mickey"
To:
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: Re: RV-List: Battery
Source
ronics.com
01/03/2001 06:11 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
I am just about to buy a battery and found this thread interesting. One
thing I would encourage folks to do is to look at the rated internal
resistance of these batteries. The Powersonic is listed at 15 milliohms
(http://www.power-sonic.com/12180.html) , the Panasonic is 12
(
http://www.panasonic.com/industrial_oem/battery/battery_oem/images/pdf/lc-r
d1217p.pdf ) and the Oddysey/Genisis/Hawker is 7.5
(http://www.hepi.com/genprod.htm) . I have decided to buy the Hawker 16
amp
from my local Batteries Plus for $100.
Ross Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Question for RV6/6A Quickbuilders... |
01/04/2001 09:12:02 AM
Even if you wing is pre-drilled , you still need to jig it when assembling.
There can be lots of shifting and things going out of square and warping
if you just table rivet it.
tom sargent
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: Re: RV-List: Question
for RV6/6A
ronics.com Quickbuilders...
01/04/2001 01:37 AM
Please respond to
rv-list
KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Fellow Quickbuilders,
>
> Im getting ready to work on the wing and am wondering how you mounted
your
> wing to work on it.
I took the advice of some one at Van's (Scott R. I think) and put a piece
of
thick carpet on my work table and just set the wing on that. When it was
time
to rivet the skin on, I put it in the wing cradle because it is more
convenient
to do tha with the wing in a vertical position.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: rookie question- Prime of interior metal parts |
01/04/2001 09:29:17
Having all my aircraft (CUb & RV-4) in a hanger is nice but consider
this......About 5 time a year the atmospheric conditions (humidity,temp &
air mass ect..) cause EVERYTHING in my hanger to sweat and drip water. My
tool cabinet (metal), work bench and ENTIRE airctaft look like the fire
company misted great volumes of water over everything in the hanger. A hi
humidity day followed by a rapid temp reduction causes this condition.
Anywho, I got courious and peeked inside a inspection plate on the RV-4 and
it was damp inside. My tool cabinent, with closed drawers, also has moist
tools. In a day or two the water sublimates. My point being there can be
water in your future where priming can certainly be of value
"Randall Henderson"
To:
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: Re: RV-List: rookie
question
ronics.com
01/03/2001 07:05 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
> Do I need to prime rivets after setting them, permissible to touch up
> w/brush? i.e. spar and frames before skinning
Even though most of us do prime the interior parts, it really is overkill,
especially for a plane that will almost certainly spend its life in a nice
dry (if not warm) hangar. The exception to this might be coastal areas. In
any case I think its safe to say that priming the rivet heads could be
considered double overkill.
Randall
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
Subject: | Re: MP3 player possibility. |
If you are going to put the MP3's on a cd, just convert and burn them in CD
audio format instead of MP3 and play it in your cd player...
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 9:22 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: MP3 player possibility.
>
>
> I intend to get an IPAQ with the control vision software soon, but I need
> something else in that realm as well. What I want is the smallest,
> simplest way of playing MP3's off a CD-ROM to feed into my intercom. 32
> megs worth of MP3's are fine, but 600+ megs and cheap, exchangable media
is
> what I want. Anyone have a suggestion?
>
>
> try the neo 35 from ssi. it uses 3.5 inch standard hard drives,
and retails
> for about 219..effectively you could have a 20-30 gig MP3 player for 219
> plus hd cost. if you get the remote display the neo will also act as a
> changer with mounting out of site... it comes with two trays one for the
> computer and one for the vehicle. when its in your computer it acts as an
> additional hd.
>
> http://www.think-box.com/neo35.html
>
> Steven DiNieri
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
Subject: | Re: Question for RV6/6A Quickbuilders... |
I used a borrowed wing jig. Made for hanging the ailerons and flaps much
easier.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom sargent" <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 11:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Question for RV6/6A Quickbuilders...
>
> KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> >
> > Fellow Quickbuilders,
> >
> > Im getting ready to work on the wing and am wondering how you mounted
your
> > wing to work on it.
>
> I took the advice of some one at Van's (Scott R. I think) and put a piece
of
> thick carpet on my work table and just set the wing on that. When it was
time
> to rivet the skin on, I put it in the wing cradle because it is more
convenient
> to do tha with the wing in a vertical position.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: Heater (was firewall) |
Try Univair, They will sell by the foot.
----- Original Message -----
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 11:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Heater (was firewall)
>
> >I need to do some stream lining
> > of the 2 inch scat hose
>
> I want to use aluminum tubing as used in auto applications - very low
weight
> and quite smooth but I can only find it in 18 inch lengths. Anyone know
of
> a source of longer?
>
> Hal Kempthorne
> RV6a N7HK - signed off!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | ElectroAir Electronic Ignition |
Bryan,
I recieved the ignition yesterday and have a couple of questions. I
realize that you had this installed on your 8 but I was wondering where
(in relation to the engine) did you mount the control/coil unit on the
firewall?
There was/is a wire splice on the red wire from the trigger, what was
this for?
Also I must assume that the short white shielded wire (out of the
control unit) is the red/white +12 line mentioned in the instructions.
Is this correct?
I hoped to get the ignition installed this weekend but still need to
find a mag gear for the pickup. Both my mags are impulse coupled so I
dont have a gear. I think I'll look around the airport before giving
Jeff Rose 60 bucks for one.
Oh, did you get the check?
--
Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado
RV-6A N99PZ Flying
Engine: Aerosport Power O-360-A1A
Prop: Sensenich 72FM8S9-1-83
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Subject: | Re: MP3 player possibility. |
Richard Riley wrote:
>
>
> >
> >Jerry,
> >The IPAQ will play MP3's while running Anywheremap software. The List Pro
> >software included with
> >the IPAQ is great for developing checklists as you can check items off with
> >a red checkmark
> >in a box, and then clear all boxes on command for the next time. I'm working
> >on developing the
> >checklists now and plan to include an Emergency Checklist.
>
> I intend to get an IPAQ with the control vision software soon, but I need
> something else in that realm as well. What I want is the smallest,
> simplest way of playing MP3's off a CD-ROM to feed into my intercom. 32
> megs worth of MP3's are fine, but 600+ megs and cheap, exchangable media is
> what I want. Anyone have a suggestion?
>
> Richard Riley
Several companies are selling portable cd players now which
will play mp3 cds.
Try computergeeks.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob Reiff" <Reiff(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Cold weather starting |
A few people emailed off list saying they couldn't find the article on our
web site...
From the main page, click on "Product info", then look down in the Table of
Contents there are several articles listed. The Busch article is the one
you want.
I'm in the same boat. After posting a question about the differences I've
seen in the RV8 cowls, I found the answer in Van's web site - just didn't
look hard enough.
Bob Reiff
Reiff Preheat Systems
www.execpc.com/reiff
>For non-CPA members, we have a copy of the article on our web site.
>
>Probably the best article I've seen on the effects of cold starts.
>
>Bob Reiff
>Reiff Preheat Systems
>www.execpc.com/reiff
>
>>There's a great pre-heat article at
>>http://www.cessna.org/members/032tech.pdf . You have to be a Cessna
Pilot's
>>Association Member to get at it though.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
Subject: | Re: 8-center section/gas cap questions |
Jack,
If you are talking about the vertical F-804C pieces, mine were warped too,
but you will eventually clamp a block between them when you assemble them
that seemed to straighten them out for riveting fine.
As for the warped flanges for the gas filler, yes, that is to fit the
curvature of the wing leading edge. I figuered that out on the second one.
Terry
RV-8A #80729 fuselage
Seattle
> Tried Van's on this one, but I think they are quite busy with inventory
this
> week. In my (8) wing kit with the Phlogiston (sp) spar, the 0215 right,
> left, forward and aft center sections pieces seem to be somewhat warped.
Is
> this normal? Also, here is another dumb one, The flanges on the gas
filler
> assemblies are bent (which I assume will fit the curvature of the wing).
Is
> this correct?
> Thanks!
> Jack
> 8-wings
> Des Moines, IA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Internal Resistance was Battery Source |
>
> I recall Elect. Bob telling us that the internal resistance (that you
> noted in your post) is more of a function of the internal design of the
> battery itself then the health or power delivery capability of a battery.
> RG, flooded cell, glass matt, gell cell, wet cell, dry cell ....all
> variations on a theme......all have different cell design, hence internal
> resistance differences......Is Elect Bob. avail for comment ...????
This is how I understand it also. Also, the internal resistance increases
as the battery "dies". A battery starting with an internal resistance of 14
milliohms will have an internal resistance of 28 after the battery losses
half of its capacity. One that starts with an internal resistance of 7.5
will increase to 15 under the same senario.
Page 2-6 of Bobs book shows the affect of internal resistance on cranking
power. In his example (assuming specific wire lengths and gauges), the
voltage delivered to the starter by a battery with an internal resistance of
11.5 milliohm is 8.25 volts. For a battery with an internal resistance of 4
milliohms, this increases to 9.9 volts. By changing the wire from a 4 gauge
to a 2 gauge, the voltage increases to 10.3 volts.
My interpretation of all this is the lower the internal resistance, the
better cranking of the engine. Also, as the battery ages, its internal
resistance increases so starting as low as possible is a good thing. This
is why I am choosing the Hawker over the other brands.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com> |
5.0.3 (Intl)|21 March 2000) at 01/04/2001 11:53:22 AM
Hi Gordon,
For wing light grounding, do whatever makes you feel good. If you feel
that the "correct way is just one single 16 gauge wire" then by all means,
you should do it that way. I was only giving my humble opinion based on
personal experience that I think it's unnecessary. Your wing lights will
probably work just as well either way. : ) The most important thing is
that you're comfortable and happy with whichever way you go.
I don't want to start a big debate or flame war over nav light grounding so
I'll rest my case and leave each to his own grounding scheme.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapid, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage....wings finally done (but wired 'the wrong way'...)
From: Gordon Robertson <gordon(at)safemail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Airframe Ground
... But why do it the wrong way, even if it "might be ok for a decade
or so"? Aluminum contacts are not good, especially aluminum to a
di-similar material like nickel coated copper. They do corrode.
Anybody who carefully primes all the inner alclad surfaces of the skins
should certainly be careful of corrosion problems in the electrical
circuitry. The correct way is just one single 16 gauge wire for the
grounds for all the wing lights. It is easy, cheap, light and correct.
Gordon Robertson
RV-8 wings
For landing lights and nav
lights.....airframe ground is more than sufficient. Your 'critical'
stuff in an RV is generally in the panel where it's easy to run
everything to a common ground, so the really important equipment is
taken
care of anyway. For lights in the wings, you can probly stand to have
one go out every ten years or so, do the one minute fix.......and save
yourself the effort/weight/time/cost of installing separate ground
wires.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: 'Lectric Bob? |
> I keep seeing references to Electric Bob - Does he have a web site? How
do
> I get his book?
>
> Dave Berryhill
http://www.aeroelectric.com/
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Internal Resistance was Battery Source |
01/04/2001 14:30:52
You reminded me about Bobs book. I should make a copy for my office. If
anyone dosen't have Bobs book, its one of those practical books that you
probably knew the electrical data once in your live,but since forgot or got
fuzzy on . After a graduate degree in EE and math courses all the way up to
" n-dimential non-Euclidean geometric space quantum theorm" , I really do
appreciate the practical nature and the down-to-earth presentation method
that Bob delivers. Come to think of it, since college I never used all the
advanced math I lerned. I have ,however, used the practical data from Bobs
books thou.......hhmmmm
"Ross Mickey"
To:
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: RV-List: Internal
Resistance was Battery Source
ronics.com
01/04/2001 12:52 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
>
> I recall Elect. Bob telling us that the internal resistance (that you
> noted in your post) is more of a function of the internal design of the
> battery itself then the health or power delivery capability of a battery.
> RG, flooded cell, glass matt, gell cell, wet cell, dry cell ....all
> variations on a theme......all have different cell design, hence internal
> resistance differences......Is Elect Bob. avail for comment ...????
This is how I understand it also. Also, the internal resistance increases
as the battery "dies". A battery starting with an internal resistance of
14
milliohms will have an internal resistance of 28 after the battery losses
half of its capacity. One that starts with an internal resistance of 7.5
will increase to 15 under the same senario.
Page 2-6 of Bobs book shows the affect of internal resistance on cranking
power. In his example (assuming specific wire lengths and gauges), the
voltage delivered to the starter by a battery with an internal resistance
of
11.5 milliohm is 8.25 volts. For a battery with an internal resistance of
4
milliohms, this increases to 9.9 volts. By changing the wire from a 4
gauge
to a 2 gauge, the voltage increases to 10.3 volts.
My interpretation of all this is the lower the internal resistance, the
better cranking of the engine. Also, as the battery ages, its internal
resistance increases so starting as low as possible is a good thing. This
is why I am choosing the Hawker over the other brands.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: 'Lectric Bob? |
Electric Bob's website address is ( http://www.aeroelectric.com ). Best try
getting his book from Cleveland tool.
Dennis Thomas
RV-9A Emp
0-320 A2B
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Pressure testing oil and fuel hoses |
> Does anyone have any neat ideas for pressure testing hoses? I'm
> thinking of using a grease gun on one end of a hose and a pressure
> guage on the other end. Then see if I can pump it up to 500 or 600
> pounds using either grease or some thick oil. Has anyone got a better
> idea?
http://www.vargaair.com used to advertise that they would pressure
check hoses.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
"Don't throw your vote away...
Let the Supreme Court throw it away for you."
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aileron Boot Pattern now on line... |
> > The only leaks I can
> > identify so far are from the NACA outside vent plumbing.
I had leaks between the eyeball vent assembly and the vent flange piece.
Made a gasket out of automotive fiber gasket material -- problem solved.
I don't have any pushrod bellows but the stick boots seem to block most of
that air. When I take out the co-pilot's stick howver -- hoo-boy! I'm sure a
set of those bellows thingies would help regardless, cuz that air's probably
just blowing in through the cracks instead.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pressure testing oil and fuel hoses |
do not use a grease gun. If you can get a hydraulic
jack you can thread on a #4 fitting so your hoses or
lines will be able to screw right on and then use a
gauge on the other end this will suffice. However do
not use any petroleum fluids other than what the line
will be used for. Also ensure the line is primed i.e.
no air pockets. or you will get a reading that will
drop and cause you to think you have a leak.
Glenn
--- Tim Lewis wrote:
>
>
>
> > Does anyone have any neat ideas for pressure
> testing hoses? I'm
> > thinking of using a grease gun on one end of a
> hose and a pressure
> > guage on the other end. Then see if I can pump it
> up to 500 or 600
> > pounds using either grease or some thick oil. Has
> anyone got a better
> > idea?
>
> http://www.vargaair.com used to advertise that they
> would pressure
> check hoses.
>
> Tim
> ******
> Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
> RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
> http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
> ******
> "Don't throw your vote away...
> Let the Supreme Court throw it away for you."
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
From: | "Denis (Bum) Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 1/4/01 13:13, DThomas773(at)AOL.COM at DThomas773(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Electric Bob's website address is ( http://www.aeroelectric.com ). Best try
> getting his book from Cleveland tool.
> Dennis Thomas
> RV-9A Emp
> 0-320 A2B
>
>
I been reading this list a helluva long time. Bob is one of my favorite
guys and a wealth of info and a good source of materials.
On the other hand he is one busy dude and has a lot of obligations. If you
want his book delivered on time, get it from the "Builders Bookstore".
http://www.buildersbooks.com/electrical_systems1.htm
He is an RV guy, and this is his business. He gets them from Bob the
minute they come out and he keeps them in stock. I think the price is the
same.
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
snip
I don't have any pushrod bellows but the stick boots seem to block most of
that air. When I take out the co-pilot's stick howver -- hoo-boy! I'm sure a
set of those bellows thingies would help regardless, cuz that air's probably
just blowing in through the cracks instead.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
snip
Hi all,
My RV was like Randall's, I didn't have pushrod boots installed, and the stick
boots did a fair job keeping the breeze out.
It wasn't until I put the crotch belt structure, and belt cutout in the seat pan
that I started getting a cold breeze on my, well,....um, let's just say it was
uncomfortable on cold days at altitude. And I had a foam seal around the belt
and the seat pan, but it still blowing thru big time.
(BTW, I love having that 5th point installed. I have Pacific Aero Belts, and Rob
told me to put it in, but I thought naw...I'll wait. After I put it in, it
made the shoulder belts more comfortable by keeping the weight of the belts behind
my shoulders from trying to lift the lap belt. I was surprised.)
My dad just spent about 3 days making up a bellows system for the pushrod/fuselage
interface. It's been in the 80's here in SoCal the last week, so I'll have
to wait until the weather gets colder (maybe in the 50's ;-) before I'll be
able to see if it works. (Sorry...I couldn't resist. You know, if it wasn't for
all the people, this might be a great place to live). Oh yeah, I still have
to finish up installing the new windshield too.
Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 150 hrs
O-360, Sensenich (83)
Simi Valley, SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Internal Resistance was Battery Source |
The chapter in Bob's book regarding batteries is must reading for all, even
those without airplanes. He, by the way, does not monitor this list, but
does monitor the new Aeroelectric list hosted graciously by Matt.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Pressure testing oil and fuel hoses |
> > Does anyone have any neat ideas for pressure testing hoses
Not a "neat" idea, but... I invested a total of about 80 bucks for a remote
hydraulic jack and some AN fittings and a gauge, and pressure tested all the
hoses myself. The remote jack is a hand pump on its side, with a hose going
to the actual jack. I removed the hose and put a manifold there for all the
sizes of hoses I might test. Ran them all up to 1000psi.
Anyone in the Minneapolis area is welcome to use it.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul & Gerti RV-4 F-1 Rocket 006" <gertivs(at)netzero.net> |
Subject: | Re: Using IPAQ for GPS |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Mack" <don(at)dmack.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 9:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: Using IPAQ for GPS
> I have looked at both Control Vision (www.controlvision.com) and Teletype
> (www.teletype.com) systems online. ............ Has anyone actually seen
both of these systems and can offer a
> review?
a local pilot is a free lance aviation writer and just submitted a review of
aviation gps for PDAs. Said the article would be in Private Pilot magazine
very soon.
In just talking to him he said the Controlvision for the Ipaq was too busy.
I got the Ipaq for Christmas (thanks again wife) and think it can't be beat.
If too busy just declutter or program the display to suit
Paul Vander Schuur
Shop Safely Online Without a Credit Card
http://www.rocketcash.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Cracked cylinder discovery |
Greetings listers,
As part of my annual condition inspection on my -8, I discovered a low
compression reading on #1 cylinder. The other three were OK, but numero uno
just went pphhhhttttt with 80 psi applied. It seemed to be coming out of
the exhaust port. So, I think "stuck or non-seating exhaust valve". I
compress the rocker spring, jiggle the valve around, give it a tap with a
mallet and still no compression. Bummer. Off with it's head! I pulled the
jug and all seemed OK, but some shiny metallic spatter was seen around the
exhaust valve seat. Not good. My A&P/IA buddy promptly recommended sending
it off to Gibson Aviation for inspection and repair. Result: It's cracked
near the exhaust port. One more Lycoming cylinder on the scrap heap. A
cylinder kit is on the way for $680 and I hope to have it installed this
weekend.
I have no idea when the crack happened. The engine seemed to be running
fine, although my gut instinct over the past couple of months has been that
it's just not as "perky" as it was early last year. Starting has never been
a problem, and it's as smooth as any four banger Lycoming I've ever
operated.
The engine has about 450 hours SMOH, but I don't have the exact history on
the cylinders, if they are Lycoming, ECI, whatever. So, it pays to take
compression readings often...not just for 100 hour or annual
inspections...but maybe at each oil change. It really doesn't take all that
long anyway. Just pulling the prop through by hand can also reveal a really
soft cylinder if one goes sour on you.
Just thought I'd share my pain and offer some insight into the joys of
aircraft ownership. ;)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
O-360A4J/180hp/Sensenich
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
Subject: | Re: Pressure testing oil and fuel hoses |
In a message dated 1/4/01 6:59:21 PM Eastern Standard Time,
alexpeterson(at)usjet.net writes:
>
> Not a "neat" idea, but... I invested a total of about 80 bucks for a remote
> hydraulic jack and some AN fittings and a gauge, and pressure tested all
the
> hoses myself. The remote jack is a hand pump on its side, with a hose
going
> to the actual jack. I removed the hose and put a manifold there for all the
> sizes of hoses I might test. Ran them all up to 1000psi.
>
Where did you get the jack?
Brian Eckstein
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "R. Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net> |
Subject: | Infinity Stick blue wire |
Listers:
I am starting the installation of my Infinity grip. Where are people
drilling the exit hole for the blue (covered collection of all switch
wires) in the control column? How big a hole are you drilling?
A basic question: How does the darn thing (grip) attach to the control stick??
Thanks.
Wayne Willuams
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Infinity Stick blue wire |
I haven't attached the grip, but it comes with "plans" that show how you cut
the top of the control stick . . . you unscrew the two halves of the grip
and screw this back into the top of the stick where you've cut the proper
pattern. I think the infinity guy can get you a drawing or if you send me
your fax number I can get you something. Re: the blue sheath, this seems
THIN . . . I cut my holes above the pivot point of the control stick on the
left side . . . coming out of the side of the stick, not the front or back.
After seeing how hard it was to thread the wire bundle through the hole I
drilled, I decided to elongate the hole, making it more of an oval versus a
circle. I've read elsewhere where people are putting a bit of RTV or
something as a hole sealer after everything is wired, etc. Good luck. I
think we have the best grip out there . . . but I don't want to start a
series of primer-like flames.
Rick Jory
----- Original Message -----
From: R. Wayne Williams <rwayne(at)gamewood.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 7:14 PM
Subject: RV-List: Infinity Stick blue wire
>
> Listers:
>
> I am starting the installation of my Infinity grip. Where are people
> drilling the exit hole for the blue (covered collection of all switch
> wires) in the control column? How big a hole are you drilling?
> A basic question: How does the darn thing (grip) attach to the control
stick??
> Thanks.
>
> Wayne Willuams
> RV-8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: ELT [was Heater (was firewall)] |
>
>121.5 and 243.0 are the current ELT/Emergency Freqs. Don't know about 406
>yet.
>
>Mike Robertson
>RV-8A
>
FAR 91.207 simply requires an approved ELT, with no specific TSO
specified. TSO C126 covers the 406 MHz ELTs. For a list of TSO
holders, see:
http://av-info.faa.gov/tso/Holders/C126.html
So, the way I read it, 406 MHz ELTs are legal now. I plan on having
one, but I hope the price comes down some more before I have to buy
it.
The NOAA SARSAT page has lots of interesting info, including the
number of rescues attributed to the SARSAT program. See:
http://www.sarsat.noaa.gov
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
Subject: | Re: Infinity Stick blue wire |
Good timing..I just did this tonight! I put one hole down close to the
bottom. I drilled it to 7/16" and put a grommet in. Then I cut the blue
jacket back to just above where that grommet is (when installed). Fish the
wires down one at a time, put an "L" bend in the end and feed it each wire
through the hole with a pair of hemostats.
To attach it, you loosen the bottom two allen screws and slip it over the
stick. Then put it in position and tighten down. Friction holds it on.
For the passenger stick you need to use the steel adapter that he offers, as
the diameter of the passenger stick is smaller. Also, be sure you have your
control sticks cut to length before you start this process. If you need
pictures, let me know....I plan on updating my website sometime soon, if I
can just pull myself away from my almost completed RV!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: "R. Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 7:14 PM
Subject: RV-List: Infinity Stick blue wire
>
> Listers:
>
> I am starting the installation of my Infinity grip. Where are people
> drilling the exit hole for the blue (covered collection of all switch
> wires) in the control column? How big a hole are you drilling?
> A basic question: How does the darn thing (grip) attach to the control
stick??
> Thanks.
>
> Wayne Willuams
> RV-8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
Subject: | Re: Pressure testing oil and fuel hoses |
Check with Varga...
http://www.vargaair.com
I had them do mine, and it was very reasonable, and it is nice piece of mind
that it was done by an aeroquip shop.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: <BSEckstein(at)cs.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 6:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: Pressure testing oil and fuel hoses
>
> Does anyone have any neat ideas for pressure testing hoses? I'm thinking
of
> using a grease gun on one end of a hose and a pressure guage on the other
> end. Then see if I can pump it up to 500 or 600 pounds using either
grease
> or some thick oil. Has anyone got a better idea?
>
> Thanks in advance
> Brian Eckstein
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Pressure testing oil and fuel hoses |
> >
> Where did you get the jack?
>
At a place called Northern. Don't know if they are around the country or
just here in the Twin Cities. Seem like Graingers and McMaster would also
have them.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Airframe Ground |
> ... But why do it the wrong way, even if it "might be ok for a decade
> or so"? Aluminum contacts are not good, especially aluminum to a
> di-similar material like nickel coated copper. They do corrode.
I don't think it's necessarily a 'given' that using airframe ground is
"wrong"... Conductive grease works well for preventing corrosion. I used it
on my main airframe/engine grounds, starter, alternator, battery posts, etc.
(not my wing lights though... should have) Dedicated grounds have their own
disadvantages -- that long wire which adds weight and has some resistance,
and probably extra connectors that could potentially fail. And there's
something to be said for KISS.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Ervin <bjervin(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: ELT [was Heater (was firewall)] |
In Civil Air Patrol, we've been told 406 mhz is the new standard, 121.5
will be phased out. How long is anybody's guess. There is currently at
least one SARSAT that receives the 406 signal.
Reasons: less false activation's (store signs, movie marquees etc.)
Better signal, easier to track and locate and tone burst for
last known GPS location
They are spendy right know, but what's it worth to have a better chance
to be found and rescued?
Kevin is right, the FAR only requires an approved ELT, but if the 121.5s
are phased out in the future, you'll be buying the new version anyway!!
Bill
RV6 Fus
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | deltaB(at)erols.com |
Subject: | Re: Van's Alternator -> airframe ground |
Don Winters wrote:
>
>
> Aluminum Oxide is a better insulator than glass! That is why aluminum wire
> is no longer used for residential wiring. If it is used at all for an
> electrical connection, the connection is coated with an anti-corrosive
> compound, and sealed from the elements.
>
ALNOX is used at work. Here is a piece of a transformer installation
manual:
"If in the case of protective compounds it becomes necessary to reapply
it, clean all contact surfaces of oxide and re-coat with a good quality
compound,
following the manufacturer's instructions. Many kinds are commercially
available. Some of them are Penetrox A, Alnox-UG, and Thomas & Betts
21059. When re-coating,
wipe off any excessive compound."
Bernie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Oil Cooler Fittings |
Fittings!!!!!! I have spent an inordinate amount of time figuring out the
fittings I need for hoses only to find (after a week waiting for the well
planned order to arrive) that the well tuned plan has turned to rat sxxx.
OK, now that I have vented, here is my question.
I have a O360-A1A. The operators manual shows one place for the oil to
return to the engine from the cooler. This fitting is a .375 NPT 18. The
maual shows two places that oil can be taken from the engine and run to the
oil cooler. One is on top of the spin on oil filter and the other is below
it. The outlet below the oil filter is a .375 NPT 18. The outlet on top of
the oil filter is a ????? It is NOT a .375 NPT. It is slightly smaller
than this. The manual is not clear.
Two questions.
1) Is anyone using the outlet on top of the oil filter to run oil to the
cooler? It is a much handier location than the one buried below the filter.
2) What is the fitting size? Maybe an AN-8? I don't have an AN-8 male to
check.
Thanks a million.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: ELT [was Heater (was firewall)] |
I read somewhere last night, maybe at AOPA.org, that 121.5 will NOT be
monitored after 2009.
-Larry
--- Bill Ervin wrote:
>
> In Civil Air Patrol, we've been told 406 mhz is the new standard, 121.5
> will be phased out. How long is anybody's guess. There is currently at
> least one SARSAT that receives the 406 signal.
>
> Reasons: less false activation's (store signs, movie marquees etc.)
> Better signal, easier to track and locate and tone burst for
>
> last known GPS location
>
> They are spendy right know, but what's it worth to have a better chance
> to be found and rescued?
>
> Kevin is right, the FAR only requires an approved ELT, but if the 121.5s
> are phased out in the future, you'll be buying the new version anyway!!
>
> Bill
> RV6 Fus
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
Gentlemen,
I just read an excellent article on the strengths and weaknesses of current
and future ELT standards. I can't for the life of me find the article
though or I would give a reference. However here is a bit of what I do
remember:
Organization is COSPAS/SARSAT. (http://www.cospas-sarsat.org/) Cospas is
acronym for Russian side of partnership.
98% of all detected 121.5mhz "distress calls" are bogus. (That doesn't mean
that 98% of all ELT triggerings are bogus) This is because the system can't
differentiate an ELT signal from 121mhz noise created by another source.
To combat this all 406mhz beacons emit a digital data stream, once every 50
seconds, that clearly identify them as emergency beacons. In fact you need
to register a 406mhz beacon. Once registered, if your signal is picked up,
they can cross reference it with a registration database and figure out not
just where, but FROM WHOM the signal is coming.
COSPAS/SARSAT will stop monitoring 121.5 in year 2008.
SAR aircraft will still use 121.5, so conforming 406mhz ELT must have both
406 and 121.5.
New 406mhz ELTs (i'm fuzzy on if they are yet available) will cost (or
currently cost) about $3000!!!!
OK now here's a thought. Marine 406mhz EPIRBs cost about $850 and include
the 121.5mhz transmitter. The only difference is that they do not self
activate. (Actually they do, on imersion in water, but that usually won't
do us much good)
If $850 is too much for you, its too much for me!! Be aware that
organizations like Boat-US will rent you a 406 mhz epirb for about $40/week.
Just right for that 1st trip over the Rockies on your way to Oshkosh.
Just my .02
Don Mei
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Subject: | Re: ELT [was Heater (was firewall)] |
The downside to the 406 mhz ELT is that no one else (pilots) will be able
to listen for ELT signals.
Dave
Bill Ervin wrote:
>
> In Civil Air Patrol, we've been told 406 mhz is the new standard, 121.5
> will be phased out. How long is anybody's guess. There is currently at
> least one SARSAT that receives the 406 signal.
>
> Reasons: less false activation's (store signs, movie marquees etc.)
> Better signal, easier to track and locate and tone burst for
> last known GPS location
>
> They are spendy right know, but what's it worth to have a better chance
> to be found and rescued?
>
> Kevin is right, the FAR only requires an approved ELT, but if the 121.5s
> are phased out in the future, you'll be buying the new version anyway!!
>
> Bill
> RV6 Fus
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Fittings |
From: "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com>
> I can't speak for your specific oil cooler, etc.--but us 8 builder's got a
> single sheet labeled "typical hoses/fittings" or something like that which
> shows the various AN parts for various devices (oil cooler, carb, engine
> fuel pump, gascolator, oil press., MP, etc.).
I have something similar but it is to generic to follow blindly. I did
speak with Gus at Vans just now and he said that the fitting on top of the
spin on oil filter is usually used to measure oil temperature and is a 5/8 X
18 regular thread (NOT NPT). My plan is to use a straight steel NPT-AN
adapter off the bottom oil outlet to a 90 degree swivel seal Earls end to
steel braided hose to a straight swivel seal end to a 45 degree steel
adapter into the oil cooler. Another 45 degree steel adapter out of the oil
cooler to straight swivel seal end to steel braided hose to a straight
swivel seal to a 45 degree steel adapter back into the engine.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Infinity Stick blue wire |
Wayne,
You should have received installation instructions with the grip. If you
didn't give Infinity a call and he will help you out and get you what you
need. By the way, for our RV's you will need the adapter that Infinity
offers. As far as the exit hole for the wires, most of us put it just above
the pivot point of the stick. PeresonallyI placed mine on the side about an
inch and a half above the pivot point. I made the hole large enough to
install a small snap bushing to eliminate any chaffing.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
12.9 Hours
>From: "R. Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Infinity Stick blue wire
>Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 21:14:45 -0500
>
>
>Listers:
>
>I am starting the installation of my Infinity grip. Where are people
>drilling the exit hole for the blue (covered collection of all switch
>wires) in the control column? How big a hole are you drilling?
>A basic question: How does the darn thing (grip) attach to the control
>stick??
>Thanks.
>
>Wayne Willuams
>RV-8A
>
>
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Allegro Avionics |
For all you M816 owners. How is the customer service from Allegro? I have
emailed and called over the last two weeks and have received no answer. Now
their telephone answering service is full and won't accept any calls. I am
assuming this is a one person operation and he may be on vacation which is
fine just as long as his service during the rest of the year is better.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Pressure testing oil and fuel hoses |
>
> > >
> > Where did you get the jack?
> >
Harbor Freight probably carries cheap porta-power type hydraulic pumps
Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
Subject: | ? about car stereo's |
I'm thinking of installing a car stereo/cd player in my 4. My questions
are
do I need one with a pre-amp output for the comm? I have a DRE 244 and
I
would guess that most panel mount stereo comms are the same, and what
are
builders using for a FM antenna? Are you having any problems with the
CD
player skipping because of the vibrations?
Thanks,
Carey Mills
I purchased a "rubber ducky" auto FM antenna from a local auto parts
store. It is about 18" long. I plan to mount it in the wing tip. I
also purchased a Kenwood CD player with preamp outputs. I haven't
installed either yet.
so I am not sure , but I think both will work
Ken Harrill
RV-6, electrical
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
If anyone is in a position to be able to measure the center hole distance
between the 2 outer most bolts that go through the 814 horizontal stab spar
(or is it the 811 angle?) down into the fuselage I'd really appreciate you
doing so. I just want to make sure I'm going to have enough width or
instead re-order and retrim that part.
thanks,
lucky
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Fw: Myths For The Last Millennium |
I past on the info about maneuvering speed to Dick Durden who wrote an
article about aviation myths. One had to do with maneuvering speed change
due to weight. His contention was that the speed went down, not up due to a
lighter plane stalling at a lower speed. This was the same message some one
on the RV list pointed out. But you read his research and the FAA's
determination. It is interesting, specially since the speed seems to be by
definition a math computation.
Cy Galley - editor, B-C Contact!
Bellanca-Champion Club
Visit us at: http://www.bellanca-championclub.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Durden" <RDurden(at)compuserve.com>
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 3:26 PM
Subject: Myths For The Last Millennium
> Cy,
>
> I checked with Charles White at MicroAerodynamics, a company that
> makes VGs. He said that maneuvering speed does not go down as a result.
I
> don't know why, but he said the FAA agreed. I suspect that the wing has
> not lost any integrity, and the fixed weight items such as the engine and
> battery box are already built for a given Va, it's ok.
>
> All the best,
> Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Fittings |
WHERE ON VANS WEBSITE? I WOULD LIKE A COPY
SCOTT
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Strobe Power Wire |
In a message dated 1/5/01 2:11:26 AM Eastern Standard Time, nhunger(at)sprint.ca
writes:
> Do you think it is appropriate to mount this 2.1 lbs box on the belly skin?
>
> The Whelen manual mentions shielded wire but it doesn't spell out what
> systems will need one.
>
> Thank-you,
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
>
I made a little tray which bolted to the center stringers on the forward
belly skin. It sits right behind the battery.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Pressure Testing Hoses - Atlanta Area |
I made a little pressure test rig that worked well. It uses a screw type
jack and AN fittings. It can deliver 5000 psi if you want. Anyone who wants
to test hoses and wants to drop by my hanger or house to do the testing (or
to borrow the apparatus) is welcome to use it.
If you're interested, drop me an e-mail off list.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
>
>If anyone is in a position to be able to measure the center hole distance
>between the 2 outer most bolts that go through the 814 horizontal stab spar
>(or is it the 811 angle?) down into the fuselage I'd really appreciate you
>doing so. I just want to make sure I'm going to have enough width or
>instead re-order and retrim that part.
>
>thanks,
>lucky
Mine ended up 7 9/16" apart. There is probably a bit of variation
from fuselage to fuselage due to the normal stack up of tolerances.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: Pressure Testing Hoses - Atlanta Area |
For the last two Airventures, Aeroquip has been making up hoses at the
convention for just the cost of fittings and hose. I think they pressure
tested as well.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
EAA Chapter 75 helping fellow aviators
----- Original Message -----
From: <KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 6:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: Pressure Testing Hoses - Atlanta Area
>
> I made a little pressure test rig that worked well. It uses a screw type
> jack and AN fittings. It can deliver 5000 psi if you want. Anyone who
wants
> to test hoses and wants to drop by my hanger or house to do the testing
(or
> to borrow the apparatus) is welcome to use it.
>
> If you're interested, drop me an e-mail off list.
>
> Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
> RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Ervin <bjervin(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: ELT [was Heater (was firewall)] |
Yep, that is going to be a problem. The theory is that it will be so
accurate, that by just using the Sarsat, we will be able to go the
triangulated position or the GPS burst position and walah! a find!
This is just a theory mind you!!
Bill
RV6 Fus
Spokane
Dave Bristol wrote:
>
>
> The downside to the 406 mhz ELT is that no one else (pilots) will be able
> to listen for ELT signals.
>
> Dave
>
> Bill Ervin wrote:
>
> >
> > In Civil Air Patrol, we've been told 406 mhz is the new standard, 121.5
> > will be phased out. How long is anybody's guess. There is currently at
> > least one SARSAT that receives the 406 signal.
> >
> > Reasons: less false activation's (store signs, movie marquees etc.)
> > Better signal, easier to track and locate and tone burst for
> > last known GPS location
> >
> > They are spendy right know, but what's it worth to have a better chance
> > to be found and rescued?
> >
> > Kevin is right, the FAR only requires an approved ELT, but if the 121.5s
> > are phased out in the future, you'll be buying the new version anyway!!
> >
> > Bill
> > RV6 Fus
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | dropping fuel pressuer w/altitude? |
At 50 hours I starting experiencing this anomaly. I have a high pressure
engine driven pump on a 0360 with Bendix fuel injection, on the ground the
pressure is steady at 25 psi. With the Airflow Performance boost on for take
off and climb out, pressure is steady at 27 psi. With the boost off pressure
is stable till around 6-7000 ft and than it starts to drop off, as low as 9
psi. I'm not experiencing any power loss, all lines are sleeve, the pump is
cooled with blast tube and all was fine during the first 50 hours. Can
someone please help? I've called the rebuilder of the pump and he says if it
was a pump problem it would happen on the ground too.
Blue Skies,
Carey Mills
RV4, 58hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: dropping fuel pressuer w/altitude? |
If you have electric gauges check your Grounds I had the same problems
Pat N314EP
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: ELT [was Heater (was firewall)] |
TSO C126 seems to indicate that the 406 MHz ELTs will also transmit
on 121.5, so I think they thought of this issue. See:
http://www.faa.gov/avr/air/AIR100/tsocur/C126.doc
Kevin
>
>Yep, that is going to be a problem. The theory is that it will be so
>accurate, that by just using the Sarsat, we will be able to go the
>triangulated position or the GPS burst position and walah! a find!
>
>This is just a theory mind you!!
>
>Bill
>RV6 Fus
>Spokane
>
>Dave Bristol wrote:
>>
>>
>> The downside to the 406 mhz ELT is that no one else (pilots) will be able
>> to listen for ELT signals.
>>
> > Dave
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: ELT [was Heater (was firewall)] |
I think 2008 is the year for the switch to happen.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
Subject: | Pitot Static Poly-Flow hookup |
A couple of weeks ago there was some discussion about hooking up the
AN5814 pitot/static tube to Poly-Flow tubing. I just finished the
hardware portion of that hook up and I've posted some information on my
web site, complete with part numbers.
Let me know if you have any questions.
http://www.mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/
Mike Nellis - RV-6 N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
Building Tanks
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Pitot Static Poly-Flow hookup |
Could some one re-send or list the site for the photos
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Strobe Power Wire |
>
>
> > Do you think it is appropriate to mount this 2.1 lbs box on the belly
skin?
> >
> > The Whelen manual mentions shielded wire but it doesn't spell out what
> > systems will need one.
> >
> > Thank-you,
> > Norman Hunger
> > RV6A Delta BC
> >
>
> I made a little tray which bolted to the center stringers on the forward
> belly skin. It sits right behind the battery.
>
>
> Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
> RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
I mounted mine with three nut plates right on the top of the battery box.
Quick to get at and real easy to take the battery lid off with the strobe
box still mounted on it and best of all, the weight is right over the
battery.
Douglas G. Murray RV-6
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WHigg1170(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Fuel pick up tube with screen from vans. Problem. |
Hello I bought the pre made fuel pick up tube the one with the screen on the
end from vans catalogue. I went to pre fit every thing up and I had a
problem. I put the tank access cover on then the bulk head fitting went to
attach the fuel tube pick up and at the bottom of the tank were the tube
turns 90 degrees towards the back of the tank the tube hits the angle
stiffener that's riveted to the bottom of the tank. The access cover already
has the holes in it from the factory and can't be rotated. It looks like the
tube from vans should have had a bigger radius bend and bent less than 90 it
should have been more like the one on the plan. The tube is hard tubing not
the soft stuff you can bend with your hands. I would have to cut more than
half of the angle stiffener on the bottom of the tank not sure if that's what
I want to do. The only thing I can see that will help me is that I have to
blank tank access covers (no hole in them) they came with my capacitive fuel
quantity sender. IM not using the float type. I just don't no if I change the
location of the fuel bulkhead fitting if there would be a problem.
Need advice RV6
Bill
Pembroke Ma
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
Subject: | 2001 price increases for 2000 orders? |
I'd like to solicit some opinions on this before speaking to Van's on
Monday.
This morning I received some mail from Van's. It seems that my prop
will be shipped in about two weeks and Van's is looking to receive the
balance due. "What balance due is that?" says I, since I paid the 2000
price of $4650 in full back in September when I placed the order. It
seems that they want to stick me with the $200 price increase on this
prop for 2001.
It's not my fault that they've taken this long to ship the prop. I've
been paid in full for four months. Is this right?
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
fabricating panel
www.egroups.com/files/bostonrvbuilders
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WPAerial(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders? |
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
Subject: | 2001 price increases for 2000 orders? |
According to the letter I received with my last purchase, any 2000 order
placed and paid in full before the price increase the first of the year
would not receive an increase. If you already paid for it--you shouldn't
have to pay more--unless they didn't charge you shipping charges or
something like that.
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Balch
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 10:59 AM
Subject: RV-List: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders?
I'd like to solicit some opinions on this before speaking to Van's on
Monday.
This morning I received some mail from Van's. It seems that my prop
will be shipped in about two weeks and Van's is looking to receive the
balance due. "What balance due is that?" says I, since I paid the 2000
price of $4650 in full back in September when I placed the order. It
seems that they want to stick me with the $200 price increase on this
prop for 2001.
It's not my fault that they've taken this long to ship the prop. I've
been paid in full for four months. Is this right?
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
fabricating panel
www.egroups.com/files/bostonrvbuilders
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave" <dhrycauk(at)telusplanet.net> |
Subject: | Re: MP3 player possibility. |
Paul;
the thing with MP3's is that you could store over 150 songs on a single
disk. cd changes would not happen too often.
Dave Hrycauk
RV-8 Ailerons, Fuse inventoried
Lacombe, AB
http://www.telusplanet.net/public/dhrycauk/index.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)rmi.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 7:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: MP3 player possibility.
>
> If you are going to put the MP3's on a cd, just convert and burn them in
CD
> audio format instead of MP3 and play it in your cd player...
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Finish Kit (Still)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 9:22 PM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: MP3 player possibility.
>
>
> >
> >
> > I intend to get an IPAQ with the control vision software soon, but I
need
> > something else in that realm as well. What I want is the smallest,
> > simplest way of playing MP3's off a CD-ROM to feed into my intercom. 32
> > megs worth of MP3's are fine, but 600+ megs and cheap, exchangable media
> is
> > what I want. Anyone have a suggestion?
> >
> >
> > try the neo 35 from ssi. it uses 3.5 inch standard hard drives,
> and retails
> > for about 219..effectively you could have a 20-30 gig MP3 player for 219
> > plus hd cost. if you get the remote display the neo will also act as a
> > changer with mounting out of site... it comes with two trays one for the
> > computer and one for the vehicle. when its in your computer it acts as
an
> > additional hd.
> >
> > http://www.think-box.com/neo35.html
> >
> > Steven DiNieri
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | earl fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders? |
I think you are right Ken. You should get the prop for the price paid
when ordered. I would call Van's and talk with them about it. I think
they will do you right.
Earl RV4
Ken Balch wrote:
>
>
> I'd like to solicit some opinions on this before speaking to Van's on
> Monday.
>
> This morning I received some mail from Van's. It seems that my prop
> will be shipped in about two weeks and Van's is looking to receive the
> balance due. "What balance due is that?" says I, since I paid the 2000
> price of $4650 in full back in September when I placed the order. It
> seems that they want to stick me with the $200 price increase on this
> prop for 2001.
>
> It's not my fault that they've taken this long to ship the prop. I've
> been paid in full for four months. Is this right?
>
> --
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
> fabricating panel
> www.egroups.com/files/bostonrvbuilders
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel pick up tube with screen from vans. Problem. |
Bill,
That angle needs trimming inorder for the pickup to fit. The pickup needs
to be right down in the corner as close to the tank skin and baffle as
possible. If it is not, you will have fuel that cannot be reached by the
pickup. I would just reach in with aviation snips and cut that angle about
1 inch from the root rib( dont't cut close to a rivet so a leak won't
develope) and bend it down flat against the skin. You may even be able to
work it back and forth until the tab breaks loose. Don't move the bulkhead
fitting because you still won't be able to get the pickup into the corner
where it needs to be. Don't forget the little clip that keeps the pickup
from rotating while being tightened! That will deprive fuel too!
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: <WHigg1170(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 11:54 AM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel pick up tube with screen from vans. Problem.
>
> Hello I bought the pre made fuel pick up tube the one with the screen on
the
> end from vans catalogue. I went to pre fit every thing up and I had a
> problem. I put the tank access cover on then the bulk head fitting went to
> attach the fuel tube pick up and at the bottom of the tank were the tube
> turns 90 degrees towards the back of the tank the tube hits the angle
> stiffener that's riveted to the bottom of the tank. The access cover
already
> has the holes in it from the factory and can't be rotated. It looks like
the
> tube from vans should have had a bigger radius bend and bent less than 90
it
> should have been more like the one on the plan. The tube is hard tubing
not
> the soft stuff you can bend with your hands. I would have to cut more than
> half of the angle stiffener on the bottom of the tank not sure if that's
what
> I want to do. The only thing I can see that will help me is that I have to
> blank tank access covers (no hole in them) they came with my capacitive
fuel
> quantity sender. IM not using the float type. I just don't no if I change
the
> location of the fuel bulkhead fitting if there would be a problem.
> Need advice RV6
> Bill
> Pembroke Ma
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders? |
Ken,
If you used a credit card, Van's usually doesn't run the card until the item
is shipped. I don't know if you are locked in to the price at the receipt
of the order or you pay the going price at the time the card is ran???
Keep us posted,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 12:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders?
>
> I'd like to solicit some opinions on this before speaking to Van's on
> Monday.
>
> This morning I received some mail from Van's. It seems that my prop
> will be shipped in about two weeks and Van's is looking to receive the
> balance due. "What balance due is that?" says I, since I paid the 2000
> price of $4650 in full back in September when I placed the order. It
> seems that they want to stick me with the $200 price increase on this
> prop for 2001.
>
> It's not my fault that they've taken this long to ship the prop. I've
> been paid in full for four months. Is this right?
>
> --
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
> fabricating panel
> www.egroups.com/files/bostonrvbuilders
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
Subject: | Re: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders? |
Greg Tanner wrote:
>
> According to the letter I received with my last purchase, any 2000 order
> placed and paid in full before the price increase the first of the year
> would not receive an increase. If you already paid for it--you shouldn't
> have to pay more--unless they didn't charge you shipping charges or
> something like that.
>
> Greg
Nope, not shipping charges. According to the letter I received, the price
of the prop went from $4650 to $4850 and that's the $200 they want me to pay
as a 'balance due'.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mark Todd" <motodd(at)pol.net> |
Subject: | Myths For The Last Millennium-maneuvering speed |
There is no physical reason that the maneuvering speed should remain
unchanged after installing VG's. I'll promise you that the 'cornering
speed' changes dramatically. Yet, Standard Category STC'd VG kits normally
don't require placarding or modifying the pilot operating handbood about the
change in maneuvering speed. That's what Paul Robertson told me last year.
This was an administrative decision by the FAA, nothing to do with
aerodynamics.
As far as I know, the VG kit from Microaerodynamics is from Paul's original
work as one of the founding partners of that company. Did Mr. White (or any
others at Microaerodynamics) do further aerodynamic research and development
of the VG kits made specifically for the RV series after Paul left the
company? I haven't had a chance to do a see side by side comparison of
the VG installations to see if there's a noticable difference between Mr.
White's kit and the Paul Robertson one marketed by Larry Vetterman.
Mark
If we have a debate about no VG's vs VG's, imagine the BS that could fly if
we start comparing one VG system vs another!!
Cy Galley - editor, B-C Contact!
Bellanca-Champion Club
Visit us at: http://www.bellanca-championclub.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Durden" <RDurden(at)compuserve.com>
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 3:26 PM
Subject: Myths For The Last Millennium
> Cy,
>
> I checked with Charles White at MicroAerodynamics, a company that
> makes VGs. He said that maneuvering speed does not go down as a result.
I
> don't know why, but he said the FAA agreed. I suspect that the wing has
> not lost any integrity, and the fixed weight items such as the engine and
> battery box are already built for a given Va, it's ok.
>
> All the best,
> Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RV8bldr" <RV8bldr(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | 2001 price increases for 2000 orders? |
Ken:
I ordered my wing kit over the phone in Dec. to beat the price increase,
gave a credit card number, and faxed the proper order form. I intended them
to charge in full, but discovered that they only charged the 25% down
amount. I called them Dec 29th and asked them to charge the remainder, which
they did. It seems that, unless they are specifically told otherwise, they
only bill the required 25% when the order is placed, then expect the
remainder 15 or so days before your shipping date. Have you verified that
they actually charged you the full amount when you placed your order? If I
had not checked, I would be in the same boat as you...
My past experiences with Van's have led me to believe that they would not
try to "stick" you for anything, in fact quite the contrary. Maybe a call
would resolve the issue in your favor. Good luck.
Russ Christopher
RV-8 Emp, wing coming in Feb!!!
SoCal
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Balch
> Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 10:59 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders?
>
>
> I'd like to solicit some opinions on this before speaking to Van's on
> Monday.
>
> This morning I received some mail from Van's. It seems that my prop
> will be shipped in about two weeks and Van's is looking to receive the
> balance due. "What balance due is that?" says I, since I paid the 2000
> price of $4650 in full back in September when I placed the order. It
> seems that they want to stick me with the $200 price increase on this
> prop for 2001.
>
> It's not my fault that they've taken this long to ship the prop. I've
> been paid in full for four months. Is this right?
>
> --
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
> fabricating panel
> www.egroups.com/files/bostonrvbuilders
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net> |
Subject: | Re: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders? |
Ken,
I have been in this situation too and I ended up paying the higher
amount. It seems that Van is given an allotment of units and he is at the
mercy of his supplier. You should have been told that the price may change,
but ... Hopefully others will take this into account when ordering the high
priced items.
Tom Barnes -6 O-360 C/S running out of money.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 12:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders?
>
> I'd like to solicit some opinions on this before speaking to Van's on
> Monday.
>
> This morning I received some mail from Van's. It seems that my prop
> will be shipped in about two weeks and Van's is looking to receive the
> balance due. "What balance due is that?" says I, since I paid the 2000
> price of $4650 in full back in September when I placed the order. It
> seems that they want to stick me with the $200 price increase on this
> prop for 2001.
>
> It's not my fault that they've taken this long to ship the prop. I've
> been paid in full for four months. Is this right?
>
> --
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
> fabricating panel
> www.egroups.com/files/bostonrvbuilders
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
Subject: | Re: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders? |
Hi Russ,
Generally speaking, the 25% down situation you outlined is true. In the case of
my prop, however, they were paid in full via certified check from Textron
Financial. I financed a couple of the more expensive items on my plane,
including the engine and prop. So, they've been holding the entire $4650, on
which I've been making payments, since last September. I just checked and
couldn't find any verbiage on Van's prop order form to the effect of actual
prices being the ones current at time of shipment vs. time of order, to say
nothing of cases such as mine where full payment actually accompanied the order.
I sure hope they do the right thing. I'll keep everyone posted on Monday.
Ken
RV8bldr wrote:
>
> Ken:
> I ordered my wing kit over the phone in Dec. to beat the price increase,
> gave a credit card number, and faxed the proper order form. I intended them
> to charge in full, but discovered that they only charged the 25% down
> amount. I called them Dec 29th and asked them to charge the remainder, which
> they did. It seems that, unless they are specifically told otherwise, they
> only bill the required 25% when the order is placed, then expect the
> remainder 15 or so days before your shipping date. Have you verified that
> they actually charged you the full amount when you placed your order? If I
> had not checked, I would be in the same boat as you...
> My past experiences with Van's have led me to believe that they would not
> try to "stick" you for anything, in fact quite the contrary. Maybe a call
> would resolve the issue in your favor. Good luck.
>
> Russ Christopher
> RV-8 Emp, wing coming in Feb!!!
> SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: sensenich prop 2600 rpm limit ? |
In a message dated 1/6/01 2:33:54 PM Eastern Standard Time, WPAerial(at)AOL.COM
writes:
> How is a 2600 RPM limit on the Sensinich prop going to effect my flying and
> what happens if I go past 2600 RPMs ?
It is not wise to go past 2600RPM IMHO! Sensenich thinks that the limit may
be bogus based on some faulty instrumentation. They are planning to retest
the prop and "MIGHT" elimate the limit based on the outcome. I have offered
them my airplane as a test vehicle if they wish to come here to S Fla and do
the test. Ed Z has indicated an interest and maybe it will happen.
How does it affect you flying? Probably saves your engine wear and tear. You
can not demonstrate your airplane at low altitudes and high power levels
during anything except climb attitudes are you will overspeed. At 9500 feet
pressure altitude on a hot day, I still can not run wide open throttle at
peak power mixture w/o exceeding the limit and I am using an 80inch pitch on
a 6A. 2600 RPM gives TAS of about 190 mph.
Bernie Kerr, 6A , SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | First long flying day experience in my 6A (long DNA, non building) |
Now that my airplane is finally painted, my wife has lifted the quarantine of
no leaving the state! :>) A neighbor was going to be stranded in Evergreen,
Al (home of SERFI) and was looking at a 24 hour bus ride. He is a 6A QB'er,
so offered to run up (501 miles) and pick him up. It was a clear, cold and
windy day. About 34 degrees here when I left TCAP (Port St Lucie, FL) and
predictions of 45 mph at 320 degrees were not friendly but at least it was
suppose to last until we would be returning. I chose to stay low (4,500)
since the forecast winds were worst the higher you went and the air was
smooth as silk. It was exactly as predicted, at 65-70 % power, 7 gph, TAS of
182mph my ground speed was hovering 138-140 yuk. I had just installed Vans
new 270 degree arc gages. The gages and my trusty EIS were indicating the
same amount of fuel consumed at the end of two hours(15 gallons). The wind
moderated as I flew over Tallahassee and turned slighty more west for
Evergreen. We were on the field at 3.5 hours. It was the first time the
NAVAID has been used to track the Garmin 195 for any distance. I had become
disenchanted with it because it was not tracking right on top of the map line
of the Garmin when I would try it momentarily on short trips. It turns out
that it tracks a very straight line, but was offset about 1 mile from the map
route line and the airplane held altitude better than I do once the trim was
correct. Hands off for 15 minute stretches!
KGZH was very friendly except for fuel prices ($2.40) compared to the $1.77 I
am used to paying at KOBE. Added 20 gals. They loaned us a courtesy car to
grab a sandwich in town and we were on the way back. My friend weighs 230 and
he had a small amount of luggage. The plane flew fine at 1650 pounds gross
weight in that cold dry air. 2.5 hours we were landing at TCAP and taxied
into my back door hangar. 1000 miles in 6 hours and 40 gallons of fuel .
Can't wait to try a long trip in a zero wind condition.
Bernie Kerr, 6A, 70 hours of grin time, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
Subject: | sensenich prop 2600 rpm limit ? |
Bernie,
I assume you're running an O-360? If so, would the same problem occur with
an O-320? I know the RPM limit still exists but with the smaller engine,
would the likelyhood of exceeding the 2600 RPM limit be less?
Greg Tanner
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rv660wm(at)AOL.COM
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 2:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: sensenich prop 2600 rpm limit ?
In a message dated 1/6/01 2:33:54 PM Eastern Standard Time, WPAerial(at)AOL.COM
writes:
> How is a 2600 RPM limit on the Sensinich prop going to effect my flying
and
> what happens if I go past 2600 RPMs ?
It is not wise to go past 2600RPM IMHO! Sensenich thinks that the limit may
be bogus based on some faulty instrumentation. They are planning to retest
the prop and "MIGHT" elimate the limit based on the outcome. I have offered
them my airplane as a test vehicle if they wish to come here to S Fla and do
the test. Ed Z has indicated an interest and maybe it will happen.
How does it affect you flying? Probably saves your engine wear and tear.
You
can not demonstrate your airplane at low altitudes and high power levels
during anything except climb attitudes are you will overspeed. At 9500 feet
pressure altitude on a hot day, I still can not run wide open throttle at
peak power mixture w/o exceeding the limit and I am using an 80inch pitch on
a 6A. 2600 RPM gives TAS of about 190 mph.
Bernie Kerr, 6A , SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: sensenich prop 2600 rpm limit ? |
>
>How is a 2600 RPM limit on the Sensinich prop going to effect my flying and
>what happens if I go past 2600 RPMs ?
>
>JERRY WILKEN
Jerry,
I can't speak to how the 2600 rpm limit will affect your flying, but
I can shed a bit of light what happens if you go past 2600 rpm.
That limit is there because Sensenich found that there were
destructive vibrations in the prop blades at rpms greater than 2600.
A single short excursion over 2600 rpm will not likely cause prop
failure, but you need to understand that the prop might have a very
short life if it was operated in that range for very long. I don't
know how short the life would be, but it might be measured in hours,
or perhaps even in minutes. The damage is cumulative, so six 10
second overspeeds are just as bad as one 60 second overspeed. The
vibrations that we are worried about cannot be felt in the cockpit,
as they are too high a frequency. You need an accurate tachometer to
be sure you aren't inadvertently operating in this range. If a prop
blade fails, the imblance often causes the engine mount to fail,
which will cause an extreme aft CG condition probably leading to loss
of control.
Hartzell has a good brochure that discusses this issue (and others).
It can be found at:
http://www.hartzellprop.com/pdfs/KitplaneBroch.pdf
The part that deals with vibration is on page 4. This brochure
discusses constant speed props, but the laws of physics are the same
for fixed pitch, so the discussion on vibration is relevant to the
Sensenich props.
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Riley <richard(at)riley.net> |
Subject: | Re: MP3 player possibility. |
I found the solution. Aiwa has an in dash unit, the CDC-MP3
http://www.aiwa.com/Catalog00/Products2.asp?id=94
that goes for about $300 at Crutchfield, but there're starting to be
portables at $100 like the MPFit
http://www.easybuy2000.com/store/?cat=mp3%20players&subcat=mpFit
and the genecia
http://www.computergeeks.com/mp3/portable/default.asp
They let you play about 10 hours on a single disk. Very cool. Thanks for
all the help.
>
>Paul;
>
>the thing with MP3's is that you could store over 150 songs on a single
>disk. cd changes would not happen too often.
>
>Dave Hrycauk
>RV-8 Ailerons, Fuse inventoried
>Lacombe, AB
>http://www.telusplanet.net/public/dhrycauk/index.htm
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)rmi.net>
>To:
>Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 7:34 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: MP3 player possibility.
>
>
>>
>> If you are going to put the MP3's on a cd, just convert and burn them in
>CD
>> audio format instead of MP3 and play it in your cd player...
>>
>> Paul Besing
>> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
>> Finish Kit (Still)
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
>> To:
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 9:22 PM
>> Subject: RE: RV-List: MP3 player possibility.
>>
>>
>> >
>> >
>> > I intend to get an IPAQ with the control vision software soon, but I
>need
>> > something else in that realm as well. What I want is the smallest,
>> > simplest way of playing MP3's off a CD-ROM to feed into my intercom. 32
>> > megs worth of MP3's are fine, but 600+ megs and cheap, exchangable media
>> is
>> > what I want. Anyone have a suggestion?
>> >
>> >
>> > try the neo 35 from ssi. it uses 3.5 inch standard hard drives,
>> and retails
>> > for about 219..effectively you could have a 20-30 gig MP3 player for 219
>> > plus hd cost. if you get the remote display the neo will also act as a
>> > changer with mounting out of site... it comes with two trays one for the
>> > computer and one for the vehicle. when its in your computer it acts as
>an
>> > additional hd.
>> >
>> > http://www.think-box.com/neo35.html
>> >
>> > Steven DiNieri
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
Richard Riley
Renaissance Composites
3025 Airport Ave
Santa Monica, CA 90405
310.391.1943
www.berkut.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Huft" <widgeon92l(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Myths For The Last Millennium-maneuvering speed |
As far as Cessna 180s go, the two companies that offer VGs have said that
the difference between the two is that one works at a higher angle of attack
(lower airspeed) than the other. They each have arguments why thier's is
better, but I wonder if the VGs really only work at higher angle of attacks
(that is, for 1G stalls) and not at lower angles of attack (higher
airspeeds) so that they do not lower the stall speed for a 4G stall, which
is what matters in turbulence. I suspect that is why there is no change in
placards for maneuvering and turbulent air penetration speeds when VGs are
added. This would also be the basis for claims that cruise speeds are
unaffected.
John Huft, rv8qb 'half done' (har)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mark Todd
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 1:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: Myths For The Last Millennium-maneuvering speed
There is no physical reason that the maneuvering speed should remain
unchanged after installing VG's. I'll promise you that the 'cornering
speed' changes dramatically. Yet, Standard Category STC'd VG kits normally
don't require placarding or modifying the pilot operating handbood about the
change in maneuvering speed. That's what Paul Robertson told me last year.
This was an administrative decision by the FAA, nothing to do with
aerodynamics.
As far as I know, the VG kit from Microaerodynamics is from Paul's original
work as one of the founding partners of that company. Did Mr. White (or any
others at Microaerodynamics) do further aerodynamic research and development
of the VG kits made specifically for the RV series after Paul left the
company? I haven't had a chance to do a see side by side comparison of
the VG installations to see if there's a noticable difference between Mr.
White's kit and the Paul Robertson one marketed by Larry Vetterman.
Mark
If we have a debate about no VG's vs VG's, imagine the BS that could fly if
we start comparing one VG system vs another!!
Cy Galley - editor, B-C Contact!
Bellanca-Champion Club
Visit us at: http://www.bellanca-championclub.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Durden" <RDurden(at)compuserve.com>
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 3:26 PM
Subject: Myths For The Last Millennium
> Cy,
>
> I checked with Charles White at MicroAerodynamics, a company that
> makes VGs. He said that maneuvering speed does not go down as a result.
I
> don't know why, but he said the FAA agreed. I suspect that the wing has
> not lost any integrity, and the fixed weight items such as the engine and
> battery box are already built for a given Va, it's ok.
>
> All the best,
> Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: MP3 player possibility. |
I thought the whole reason for wanting MP-3 in an aircraft is the lack of a
disk and the subsequent lack of skipping. Do they not make a large
capacity portable that doesn't have any moving parts?
Bill
-4 wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Riley" <richard(at)riley.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 6:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: MP3 player possibility.
>
> I found the solution. Aiwa has an in dash unit, the CDC-MP3
> http://www.aiwa.com/Catalog00/Products2.asp?id=94
>
> that goes for about $300 at Crutchfield, but there're starting to be
> portables at $100 like the MPFit
> http://www.easybuy2000.com/store/?cat=mp3%20players&subcat=mpFit
> and the genecia
> http://www.computergeeks.com/mp3/portable/default.asp
>
> They let you play about 10 hours on a single disk. Very cool. Thanks for
> all the help.
>
>
> >
> >Paul;
> >
> >the thing with MP3's is that you could store over 150 songs on a single
> >disk. cd changes would not happen too often.
> >
> >Dave Hrycauk
> >RV-8 Ailerons, Fuse inventoried
> >Lacombe, AB
> >http://www.telusplanet.net/public/dhrycauk/index.htm
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)rmi.net>
> >To:
> >Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 7:34 AM
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: MP3 player possibility.
> >
> >
> >>
> >> If you are going to put the MP3's on a cd, just convert and burn them
in
> >CD
> >> audio format instead of MP3 and play it in your cd player...
> >>
> >> Paul Besing
> >> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> >> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> >> Finish Kit (Still)
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
> >> To:
> >> Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 9:22 PM
> >> Subject: RE: RV-List: MP3 player possibility.
> >>
> >>
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > I intend to get an IPAQ with the control vision software soon, but I
> >need
> >> > something else in that realm as well. What I want is the smallest,
> >> > simplest way of playing MP3's off a CD-ROM to feed into my intercom.
32
> >> > megs worth of MP3's are fine, but 600+ megs and cheap, exchangable
media
> >> is
> >> > what I want. Anyone have a suggestion?
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > try the neo 35 from ssi. it uses 3.5 inch standard hard
drives,
> >> and retails
> >> > for about 219..effectively you could have a 20-30 gig MP3 player for
219
> >> > plus hd cost. if you get the remote display the neo will also act as
a
> >> > changer with mounting out of site... it comes with two trays one for
the
> >> > computer and one for the vehicle. when its in your computer it acts
as
> >an
> >> > additional hd.
> >> >
> >> > http://www.think-box.com/neo35.html
> >> >
> >> > Steven DiNieri
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
> Richard Riley
> Renaissance Composites
> 3025 Airport Ave
> Santa Monica, CA 90405
> 310.391.1943
> www.berkut.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: pressure problem |
In a message dated 1/6/2001 10:56:59 AM Central Standard Time,
fairlea(at)execulink.com writes:
> I will mount the sensor in a different location on the rocket I am building
> now,
>
> Tom Martin
>
Hey Tom,
I remounted the transducer today, flew it and right around 6-7K the pressure
dropped. It went low as 10 psi and would hover between 12-20. Turn the
boost on and all was well at 27 psi, with the boost back off it was up and
down again. I than tried inverted flight and with in 3 sec the pressure
stabilized at 25 psi, go figured that one. Any more idea's or do know of
anyone who can help me trouble shoot this.
Thanks,
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: sensenich prop 2600 rpm limit ? |
Greg Tanner wrote:
>
>
> Bernie,
> I assume you're running an O-360? If so, would the same problem occur with
> an O-320? I know the RPM limit still exists but with the smaller engine,
> would the likelyhood of exceeding the 2600 RPM limit be less?
>
> Greg Tanner
The Sensenich prop for the O-360 does not have the rpm restriction.
The ability to spin a prop beyond 2600 rpm is dependent on the pitch of
the prop, not just the horsepower of the engine.
The engine in my RV-6 could spin the Sensenich prop beyond 2600 when it
was a tired 150 hp engine. It is now a fresh 160, but since I had the
prop repitched, it is less likely to exceed 1600 rpm.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, just back from a GREAT day of flying to Gwinnett
County, GA, and points between here and there.....
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
========================
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rv660wm(at)AOL.COM
> Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 2:36 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: sensenich prop 2600 rpm limit ?
>
>
> In a message dated 1/6/01 2:33:54 PM Eastern Standard Time, WPAerial(at)AOL.COM
> writes:
>
> > How is a 2600 RPM limit on the Sensinich prop going to effect my flying
> and
> > what happens if I go past 2600 RPMs ?
>
> It is not wise to go past 2600RPM IMHO! Sensenich thinks that the limit may
> be bogus based on some faulty instrumentation. They are planning to retest
> the prop and "MIGHT" elimate the limit based on the outcome. I have offered
> them my airplane as a test vehicle if they wish to come here to S Fla and do
> the test. Ed Z has indicated an interest and maybe it will happen.
>
> How does it affect you flying? Probably saves your engine wear and tear.
> You
> can not demonstrate your airplane at low altitudes and high power levels
> during anything except climb attitudes are you will overspeed. At 9500 feet
> pressure altitude on a hot day, I still can not run wide open throttle at
> peak power mixture w/o exceeding the limit and I am using an 80inch pitch on
> a 6A. 2600 RPM gives TAS of about 190 mph.
>
> Bernie Kerr, 6A , SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Berryhill" <dwberryhill(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: MP3 player possibility. |
Yes, they do. The only drawback (at least for now) is that the memory
modules are pretty expensive. Like all other electronic technology, they're
sure to get cheaper as time goes by.
Dave
No RV (yet!)
>
> I thought the whole reason for wanting MP-3 in an aircraft is the lack of
a
> disk and the subsequent lack of skipping. Do they not make a large
> capacity portable that doesn't have any moving parts?
>
> Bill
> -4 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders? |
Look at another way. Van priced selling you a prop with his cost in mind.
Manufacturer raised the price. Now you really have maybe three options...
1. Get a refund as Van no longer can sell you a prop at what you paid. You
still have to buy a prop and this might be the best option if you think you
can beat Van's new price some where else.
2. Pay the increase because you can't do any better even at the new price.
Remember, all sources probably have increased their price to reflect their
new cost.
3. Negotiate with Van so that Van gets the same amount for a mark up as he
did with the old price. This will be to your advantage if Van uses a
percent mark up. If the markup from the prop maker is $200 then he is using
a flat fee and you will not get any benefit. It is also possible that the
prop maker increased the cost by more than $200 and Van already is giving
you a break by absorbing some of the increase.
Remember Van cannot sell you anything very long unless he makes a profit to
cover his expenses and overhead. With out Van's making a profit so he can
continue to support you, you and the rest of the RV builder lose; big time!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 1:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders?
>
> According to the letter I received with my last purchase, any 2000 order
> placed and paid in full before the price increase the first of the year
> would not receive an increase. If you already paid for it--you shouldn't
> have to pay more--unless they didn't charge you shipping charges or
> something like that.
>
>
> Greg
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Balch
> Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 10:59 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders?
>
>
> I'd like to solicit some opinions on this before speaking to Van's on
> Monday.
>
> This morning I received some mail from Van's. It seems that my prop
> will be shipped in about two weeks and Van's is looking to receive the
> balance due. "What balance due is that?" says I, since I paid the 2000
> price of $4650 in full back in September when I placed the order. It
> seems that they want to stick me with the $200 price increase on this
> prop for 2001.
>
> It's not my fault that they've taken this long to ship the prop. I've
> been paid in full for four months. Is this right?
>
> --
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
> fabricating panel
> www.egroups.com/files/bostonrvbuilders
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: MP3 player possibility. |
In a message dated 1/6/2001 7:14:46 PM Central Standard Time,
billshook(at)mindspring.com writes:
<< I thought the whole reason for wanting MP-3 in an aircraft is the lack of
a
disk and the subsequent lack of skipping. Do they not make a large
capacity portable that doesn't have any moving parts?
Bill
-4 wings >>
No the whole reason for mp3 is that you can put over 100 songs on a cd and
just carry 2 or 3 cds with you at all times. MP3 players only have 32 or 64
meg usually while a cd is 700 meg. ALso they dont offer fm radio. A well
designed cd player with a buffer and a correct install should not skip in
anything other then moderate to severe turbulence.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Myths For The Last Millennium-maneuvering speed |
Here is a response about VG's.
The more I think about the FAA saying it doesn't change, the more skeptical
I become. They do and say so many improbable things like the recent Aeronca
Spar AD, that it makes one wonder.i.e... inspection holes where there has
never been a problem and probably never will be. No inspection holes where
there has been problems and will continue to be problems.
Maybe It has something to do with being defined from the "clean stall speed"
The VR stall speed is not the "clean" stall speed so the maneuvering speed
remains the same.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Todd" <motodd(at)pol.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 2:23 PM
Subject: RV-List: Myths For The Last Millennium-maneuvering speed
>
> There is no physical reason that the maneuvering speed should remain
> unchanged after installing VG's. I'll promise you that the 'cornering
> speed' changes dramatically. Yet, Standard Category STC'd VG kits
normally
> don't require placarding or modifying the pilot operating handbood about
the
> change in maneuvering speed. That's what Paul Robertson told me last
year.
> This was an administrative decision by the FAA, nothing to do with
> aerodynamics.
>
> As far as I know, the VG kit from Microaerodynamics is from Paul's
original
> work as one of the founding partners of that company. Did Mr. White (or
any
> others at Microaerodynamics) do further aerodynamic research and
development
> of the VG kits made specifically for the RV series after Paul left the
> company? I haven't had a chance to do a see side by side comparison of
> the VG installations to see if there's a noticable difference between Mr.
> White's kit and the Paul Robertson one marketed by Larry Vetterman.
>
> Mark
>
> If we have a debate about no VG's vs VG's, imagine the BS that could fly
if
> we start comparing one VG system vs another!!
>
>
> Cy Galley - editor, B-C Contact!
> Bellanca-Champion Club
> Visit us at: http://www.bellanca-championclub.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rick Durden" <RDurden(at)compuserve.com>
> Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 3:26 PM
> Subject: Myths For The Last Millennium
>
>
> > Cy,
> >
> > I checked with Charles White at MicroAerodynamics, a company
that
> > makes VGs. He said that maneuvering speed does not go down as a result.
> I
> > don't know why, but he said the FAA agreed. I suspect that the wing has
> > not lost any integrity, and the fixed weight items such as the engine
and
> > battery box are already built for a given Va, it's ok.
> >
> > All the best,
> > Rick
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: sensenich prop 2600 rpm limit ? |
I hope it will exceed 1600!!!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 7:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: sensenich prop 2600 rpm limit ?
>
>
> Greg Tanner wrote:
> >
> >
> > Bernie,
> > I assume you're running an O-360? If so, would the same problem occur
with
> > an O-320? I know the RPM limit still exists but with the smaller engine,
> > would the likelyhood of exceeding the 2600 RPM limit be less?
> >
> > Greg Tanner
>
>
> The Sensenich prop for the O-360 does not have the rpm restriction.
>
> The ability to spin a prop beyond 2600 rpm is dependent on the pitch of
> the prop, not just the horsepower of the engine.
>
> The engine in my RV-6 could spin the Sensenich prop beyond 2600 when it
> was a tired 150 hp engine. It is now a fresh 160, but since I had the
> prop repitched, it is less likely to exceed 1600 rpm.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6, just back from a GREAT day of flying to Gwinnett
> County, GA, and points between here and there.....
>
> "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
> ========================
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rv660wm(at)AOL.COM
> > Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 2:36 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: sensenich prop 2600 rpm limit ?
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 1/6/01 2:33:54 PM Eastern Standard Time,
WPAerial(at)AOL.COM
> > writes:
> >
> > > How is a 2600 RPM limit on the Sensinich prop going to effect my
flying
December 31, 2000 - January 06, 2001
RV-Archive.digest.vol-jy