RV-Archive.digest.vol-jy

December 31, 2000 - January 06, 2001



      the attaching hardware and the price is very good.  Van's sells alternator
      bracket for generic automotive mounting on lycoming engines.  Van's brackets
      worked for the chevy sprint unit that I installed.  You will have to get
      your own bolts which are commonly availabe to use with Van's brackets.  If I
      had known about the Niagra Air Parts Unit when I first build my RV, that is
      what I would have installed during original assembly.
      
      Alan McKeen
      RV-6
      160HP
      Wood Prop
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com>
Subject: Question re: wing tip lights
Date: Dec 31, 2000
Congrats on your progress!! I just torqued my wing bolts over the holidays. Required some gymnastics for the bolts around the 6A main gear weldment. Put on the engine mount as well with the (prior)hopes of hanging the engine before the new year (won't happen). It won't fly in 2001, although Ken's probably will and "Papa Juliette" ***might** (if not then the first part of 2002). Keep plugging away and take a break to visit "the factory" again some day. Lizard's Thicket will be my treat. Also, regarding the lights, we have multiple approaches being used so you can get some idea of what it might look like with the different mounting schemes and different power packs. James -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Lawson Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 9:53 AM Subject: RV-List: Question re: wing tip lights Well, shazam! I'm going to finish the tail control surfaces this weekend. Thanks to all you RV vets who have answered my questions (whether you knew it or not) with your posts to this forum. And James Clark: thanks for your help when I was looking into building my airplane...when are you going to fly yours? :-) I'm about ready to start on the wings (I could use a couple more holidays to get the process jump-started!) and I'm trying to step out of character and think ahead...to save weight and go easy on the CG, I did not plan to install a tail light...figuring that I could get a set of wing tip lights that would provide the rearward coverage required. Anyone have suggestions on which lights to buy? I took a look in the archives and didn't see anything specific...or if anyone addresses this on their web site, please advise, and I'll go take a look. Semper Fi John RV-6 (FINALLY finishing the tail...) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 31, 2000
From: barry <bpote(at)erols.com>
Subject: Re: Chamfering wing skin overlap area
Could you reword this? I don't quite get the picture. Barry RV9a Wings C&F Hiatt wrote: > > > Listers, > > I used a method suggested by Bill Benedict when he was last here in > Minnesota. He said to drill a hole about 1/2" above the rivet just below > the spar flange and where the skin will overlap, then cut the lower skin > in a sguare wedge from the edge to the hole and then up to the top. This > looks perfectly level at the spar and becomes unnoticeable further down > the overlap. You can use the same method at the aft end of the skin > overlap where the Flap (or aileron) fits so that there is no overlap to > scratch the surfaces. Looks great! > > Fred > > Jim Bower wrote: > > > > > I looked in the archives, but couldn't find anything on this subject that > > helped, so... > > > > What is the best technique for thinning the wing skins at their forward > > overlap point? If we are trying to achieve a flush joint with the tank > > skin, then I believe that an equal amount of material needs to be removed > > from the top of the inboard skin and the bottom of the outboard skin, right? > > > > The best way I can think of to do that is with my belt sander, but I am sure > > open to all the good ideas and experiences out there on the list! > > > > BTW...it really DOES hurt when you try to drill into your finger! > > > > > > Jim Bower > > St. Louis, MO > > RV-6A N143DJ > > Wings > > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > > > > > -- > Fred & Carolynn Hiatt Tel: (952) 898-4328 > hiattcf(at)earthlink.net > Fax: (952) 898-5895 > > http://home.earthlink.net~hiattcf/ > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net>
Subject: Re: Question re: wing tip lights
Date: Dec 31, 2000
Aeroflash, http://www.aeroflash.com has a combination tail,nav and strobe you can put on the wingtip for $425. They have dual power supplies that you can easily mount in the wings. Also, Van's sells a fiberglass extension that you can bond into the wingtip for assembly of these strobes. You can get the lights from Cleveland tool or the Team Rocket folks. Don't order them direct from Aeroflash, or you will pay more for them than if you use the vendors links below. http://www.cleavelandtool.com http://www.teamrocketaircraft.com Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Finish Kit (Still) ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Lawson" <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 7:53 AM Subject: RV-List: Question re: wing tip lights > > Well, shazam! I'm going to finish the tail control surfaces this weekend. Thanks to all you RV > vets who have answered my questions (whether you knew it or not) with your posts to this forum. And > James Clark: thanks for your help when I was looking into building my airplane...when are you going > to fly yours? :-) > > I'm about ready to start on the wings (I could use a couple more holidays to get the process > jump-started!) and I'm trying to step out of character and think ahead...to save weight and go easy > on the CG, I did not plan to install a tail light...figuring that I could get a set of wing tip > lights that would provide the rearward coverage required. Anyone have suggestions on which lights > to buy? I took a look in the archives and didn't see anything specific...or if anyone addresses > this on their web site, please advise, and I'll go take a look. > > Semper Fi > John > RV-6 (FINALLY finishing the tail...) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Stage 3 engine mounts
Date: Dec 31, 2000
Dear listers, I notices a post recently by someone interested in purchasing an RV-4. He stressed that he wanted "Stage 3 engine mounts" I purchased my RV-4 last year and don't know what that means. What are they? Why are they important? How do I tell if mine are that type? If not, what should I do? Is this truly critical? Thanks, please excuse the ignorance. Best regards, Don Mei N92CT (Too windy to fly, cold too) Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 31, 2000
From: Gordon Robertson <gordon(at)safemail.com>
Subject: bolt torques
Ok folks ... Here is an excellent useage of the List. I need some assistance. I find proper torques to be a very neglected subject. I agree with the posting below, in that everything I have found says 50 - 60 lb-ins for AN4 bolts, and 20 - 25 lb-ins for AN3 bolts. To me this is very light, and much less than I use on my cars, etc. But Dennis says 140 lb-ins for his AN4 bolts. What is the correct / approved torque ? Gordon Robertson RV-8 sb wings Dennis, can you tell me what reference you used to get the 140 in/lb figure for an AN4 bolt. I'm in the process of tightening my bell cranks now and everything I've seen says that 50-70 in/lb is recommended. For me, 70 in/lb is to much and causes a little binding. I backed it off until the binding went away and then rechecked to make sure it was between 50-70 in/lb. Only a physicist?.....indeed. I can't even spell physist (sp)... :) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: ejection seat
Date: Dec 31, 2000
> Well.....maybe I rethink the ejection seat in my RV after reading this > story > http://www.gallagher.com/ejection_seat/ > Happy NewYear folks, may all your future landings be happy landings I thought that there was a company in the States making or marketing a lightweight ejection seat designed for the high end acro crowd for $38,000 USD. Haven't seen the ad in awhile though. Do not archive.......Norman........ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 31, 2000
Subject: anybody etching w/sodium hydroxide?
From: Frederic W Stucklen <wstucklen1(at)juno.com>
Listers, An A/P freind of mine, who is in the process of restoring a old Cessna 120 that had a lot of corrosion problems, is using a product from Home Depot called PH-OSPHO-RIC Plus +. It's a phosperic acid based product that etches the alum very nicely. Sold in gallons, very inexpensive, and easily obtainable..... Fred Stucklen RV-6A ( 1670 Hrs in 7.5+ Yrs) N925RV ______ From: earl fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: anybody etching w/sodium hydroxide? I beleive I would stick with alumiprep. As fas as something cheaper, a little red devil lye mixed with water will eat a hole right through aluminum but I would not use it on my airplane. Earl RV4 donotarchive Scott.Wilder(at)sf.frb.org wrote: > > > As some of you know alumiprep is quite expensive, I have been exploring the > use of sodium hydroxide flakes or beads to etch with, it is available from > chemical outlets for about $ .50 to $1.00 a pound, quite cheap. Anybody > have comments or suggestions for a cheaper etching medium? How will I know > if the concentration is too strong? How long will it hold its etching > power? > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: aileron bellcrank overcenter?
Date: Dec 31, 2000
I was typing AN4 and reading AN5.. Sorry -- 50-70 is correct for AN4 and 140 is for an AN5. red-faced Dennis 6A N600DP Hampshire, IL C38 -----Original Message----- From: Mike Nellis <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> Date: Sunday, December 31, 2000 1:56 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: aileron bellcrank overcenter? > >Dennis, can you tell me what reference you used to get the 140 in/lb figure >for an AN4 bolt. I'm in the process of tightening my bell cranks now and >everything I've seen says that 50-70 in/lb is recommended. For me, 70 in/lb >is to much and causes a little binding. I backed it off until the binding >went away and then rechecked to make sure it was between 50-70 in/lb. > >Only a physicist?.....indeed. I can't even spell physist (sp)... :) > >Mike Nellis - RV-6 N699BM (res) >Plainfield, IL >Building Tanks >http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page >> >> I believe that the 140 inch -pounds for an AN4 is that dry torque that >will >> stretch the bolt to about 80% of the yield point. In tension loading the >> preload results in the strongest possible joint. In the case of some of >> the control fittings on my 6A, I believe that less torque is justified in >> those non-tension-loaded applications, provided the bolt can't rotate. >> >> BTW, I make a point about control surface binding because a local RV test >> pilot refuses to fly a customer's plane if the controls are not smooth and >> friction-free. He considers virtually frictionless control surface >movement >> to be a part of the RV design and many builders have to adjust their >> linkages before he'll test fly the plane. I discovered the added friction >> in my system when my helper dutifully torqued all the control linkage >attach >> bolts to the proper value with my torque wrench, as I had taught him to >do. >> Previously, we had only finger-tightened the bolts. I then had to untorque >a >> couple of them slightly to get the action I was seeking. >> >> Disclaimer: I am merely a physicist and my mechanical engineering >> knowledge, extremely limited as it is, is all from reading books and >> on-the-job experience. I'll gladly defer to the real MEs on the list in >> these matters. >> >> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP only 26 hours in two months and more snow on the >way >> Hampshire, IL C38 >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kenny finch" <krfch(at)tcsn.net>
Subject: RV-4 4sale
Date: Dec 31, 2000
Richard Young left a message that he would like to buy a RV-4 but I couldn't get him at the address he gave, so maybe he could get me at krfch(at)tcsn.net or 805 238 1199 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvmils(at)AOL.COM
Date: Dec 31, 2000
Subject: ? about car stereo's
I'm thinking of installing a car stereo/cd player in my 4. My questions are do I need one with a pre-amp output for the comm? I have a DRE 244 and I would guess that most panel mount stereo comms are the same, and what are builders using for a FM antenna? Are you having any problems with the CD player skipping because of the vibrations? Thanks, Carey Mills -4, 55hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Attaching eyes to hinge pins
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
Date: Dec 31, 2000
12/31/2000 07:58:46 PM Can someone tell me the preferred way to attach the safety eye to the cowl forward hinge pins? Weld, solder, JB weld? Does one usually use steel or stainless for the safety eye? Thanks, Jim Andrews RV-8A ( finishing up cowl install ) O-360 A1A Sensenich 85 N89JA reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV6-A-QB Pitot Routing
Date: Dec 31, 2000
Tom: I didn't see a reply to your question so...you need to get some 1/4" nylon clamps and pop-rivet them to the spar web between the spar and the tank. I believe you can see a picture of this on Sam Buchanan's web site. Pat Hatch RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hrs. TT O-320, Hartzell C/S RV-6, Fuselage O-360, Hartzell C/S pat_hatch(at)msn.com > Now the downside! How does one route the 1\4 in. aluminum pitot tube > per the plans? I can get the tube between the wing spar and fuel tank but > can't seem to figure out how to secure the tube running between the spar and > tank?? > Tom in Ohio ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brett and Colleen Herrick" <cherrick(at)hsonline.net>
Subject: RV-6AQ Vertical Fin Bracket Questions
Date: Dec 31, 2000
I am attempting to install the lower VS-410 hinge bracket on my RV-6AQ vertical fin and not having much success. As a bit of background information, on the quickbuild kit the lower bracket is made from a piece of 1/8" x 1 " x 2" aluminum extrusion rather the 0.050" thick steel plate that the rest of the brackets are made from. Also, the upper VS-410 bracket is already installed and it is made of steel. So my questions are as follows: 1.) Why does the construction manual say to place the MD-3616M rod-end bearing and an AN960-10L washer between the upper and lower brackets to locate the lower bracket. Isn't this going to make the two brackets too far apart (i.e. by the thickness of the washer) or is this washer supposed to be reinstalled on final assembly to increase the bearing area of the rod bearing against the aluminum VS-410? 2.) In attaching the lower VS-410 to the vertical fin I drilled through the four holes that already existed in the rear spar of the vertical fin. In doing this, three of the holes broke out halfway in the fillet radius of the extrusion. I believe that this is due to the aluminum extrusion in comparison with the steel brackets is shifted down 0.025" due to using the washer, is 0.075" thicker than the steel bracket and the fillet radius is larger than the bend radius of the steel bracket. By not having a flat surface I don't see how I can properly form the shophead on the rivet. Any thoughts? What I am doing wrong? 3.) As I have not been able to find them, where in the kit are the AN426D4-8 rivets to attach this bracket? Do they need to be ordered separately? Thanks for your help. Brett Confused in Columbus, Indiana ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Berryhill" <dwberryhill(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: anybody etching w/sodium hydroxide?
Date: Dec 31, 2000
> > Listers, > > An A/P freind of mine, who is in the process of restoring a old Cessna > 120 that had a lot of corrosion problems, is using a product from Home > Depot called PH-OSPHO-RIC Plus +. It's a phosperic acid based product > that etches the alum very nicely. Sold in gallons, very inexpensive, and > easily obtainable..... > > Fred Stucklen > RV-6A ( 1670 Hrs in 7.5+ Yrs) > N925RV Are you sure he's not using it on steel parts? Phosphoric acid solutions are usually used to remove rust and etch steel. Dave Berryhill No RV (yet!) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Heat shield paint for cowl
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
Date: Dec 31, 2000
12/31/2000 08:35:30 PM Can anyone recommend a good heat shield paint for the area of the cowl that is closest to the exhaust? I would like to do this before my cowl gets coated with oil. Thanks, Jim Andrews RV-8A ( finishing up cowl install ) O-360 A1A Sensenich 85 N89JA reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 31, 2000
From: Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: Firewall
Rick, You want them both inside the cockpit where the air is clean and cool since they both draw in air. I have a single heat muff and the same flapper you have and it supplies plenty of hot air but the coldest I've flown in is about 30f. The biggest problem in keeping it warm is all the air leaks around the wing roots and the slider-I'd concentrate on sealing them the best you can. Dave N87DL -6 So.Cal RGray67968(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > Listers, > QB6 Slider.........1 - Where are you folks mounting the filter and pressure > regulator for the vacuum system (seems to me I'd have less firewall > penetrations on the cockpit side.......but lousy access to work on, and more > holes on the engine side but easier to work on)? > 2 - Is a single heat muff adequate (read "I like it hot") and where is the > best place to penetrate the firewall, left/right/high/low (I have the > triangular shaped flapper from Van's)? > Thanks in advance. > > Rick Gray (Ohio) Snowing at the Buffalo Farm - Just got (and hung) my O-360 > from Bart after a 5 month wait - 9.2/1 pistons - Lightspeed EI - Millennium > Cyls. - RED & CHROME BEAUTY. > please archive > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net>
Subject: NEW GARMIN GTX-320 Transponder
Date: Dec 31, 2000
Found this on Ebay if anybody is interested. Aircraft Spruce sells it for $1615 USD. Pg 391. Steve Hurlbut Comox, BC shurlbut(at)island.net http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=534002908 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: Re: NEW GARMIN GTX-320 Transponder
Date: Dec 31, 2000
> Found this on Ebay if anybody is interested. > Aircraft Spruce sells it for $1615 USD. Pg 391. > My FBO just sold me a brand new GTX327 for $1421, and it is light-years ahead of the 320. Just be aware. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN 6A ------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: Re: RV-6AQ Vertical Fin Bracket Questions
Date: Dec 31, 2000
Bret: My RV-6-QB had the VS-410 done when I received my kit! Although the Builders Manual said to fabricate the bracket out of aluminum and install per plans, mine came completed and made out of steel?????? I called Vans and they said I just got lucky!!!! I received my Kit on December 23, 1999 so perhaps running changes were made. I also received no AN426d4-8 rivets? Tom in Ohio ----- Original Message ----- From: Brett and Colleen Herrick <cherrick(at)hsonline.net> Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 9:07 PM Subject: RV-List: RV-6AQ Vertical Fin Bracket Questions > > > . As a bit of background > information, on the quickbuild kit the lower bracket is made from a piece of > 1/8" x 1 " x 2" aluminum extrusion rather the 0.050" thick steel plate that > the rest of the brackets are made from. Also, the upper VS-410 bracket is > already installed and it is made of steel. > far > > > > > 3.) As I have not been able to find them, where in the kit are the AN426D4-8 > rivets to attach this bracket? Do they need to be ordered separately? > > Thanks for your help. > > Brett > Confused in Columbus, Indiana > > ________________________________________________________________________________ User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
Date: Dec 31, 2000
Subject: "There I was at 10,000 feet"
From: Gary Graham <beeb(at)teleport.com>
It was really 5,000 feet, but in the old days this was the standard opening for a good aviation story. Let's bring it back. I was having a good time (RV-4, O-320) last summer watching Scott McDaniels who was flying below me near the surface just over the hills south of Hillsboro AP, Oregon( 10 miles out). I think he was scouting a small private strip? ALL OF A SUDDEN, I smelled strong gas fumes in the cockpit. I opened My Wemac(sp) and pointed it right at my face. Facts: Fuel pressure = zero (1 lb. resolution) Fuel flow = 14 gal + Engine running (but how long?) No fuel could be detected in the cockpit No smoke detected Turned inbound to HIO Descended, ATIS, TWR, Pre-landing check Boost pump (no change in numbers) Opened bypass valve (no excessive bubbles in sight glass) Engine still there Slow reduction in throttle Slow mixture to rich Landing speeds, flaps, tight pattern Landed and cleared active Taxied to hangar(big mistake, because of reduced air flow through cowl and my four pipe system) Shut everything off and got out. Did a walk around (nothing, waited awhile, nothing) Underside check (nothing) Opened hangar(fire extinguisher ready) Pushed plane in and shut door (windy) All over, under and inside smelling and looking for gas(detected gas fumes at engine air inlet and filter looked wet on the bottom edge) Found some help after things cooled down in cowl and I cooled down Spotter at front of plane Turned on fuel and boost pump (YELLING..... turned back off) My RV was going to the bathroom allover the hangar floor (1/4" stream coming out the cowl air exit, I mopped it up and went home) Logged some sprayer time "I'll bet it was coming from the carb. bowl vent" I herd someone say out there. YES, YES, YES. I took that (60 hrs. since all new parts and AD's) MA-4SPA apart in a way that I could analyze and test all possibilities. I even became a familiar name at Precision Airmotive. (Nothing) Assembled by the book (new needle and seat , gasket, French locks, etc.) Back on plane, ground test and flew it. (still Good 20 hrs.) OK, so what do I have to offer you? You know the drain holes you drill in the bottom of the carb. air box to prevent backfire Fire! and engine flooding out. I now have an aluminum tube epoxied(sp) in the bottom low point of the air box with a drain hose aft clearing the exhaust pipes. It is a similar system to that used on the mechanical fuel pump. In fact these two vent tubes could be teed together and just one hose used for both safety bypass lines. Thanks to my nose and my RMI engine monitor for alerting me to a problem. Oh yes, "How was the gas getting to my nose" You query? The gas came out the carb. vent hole, inside the air cleaner element, overflowed the bottom gasket of the element, ran into the fiberglass air box, out the drain holes I drilled and ran out the bottom of the cowl within 3/4" of a four pipe exhaust. It then flowed down the tunnel and aft to the tail where it changed direction as a vapor and came into the cockpit via the tail cone. I always suspected that the tails pumped in these birds. LUCKY, wasn't I? Gary ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Moser" <moserr(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: HS602 and HS810 edge distance
Date: Dec 31, 2000
Happy New Years all, I have a question regarding my recently fitted and drilled fwd spar on my -8 tail. I checked the archives and got REAL close to getting an answer there, but I thought I'd ask again to see if I could get a little closer. From the archive I see that I am not the first, or probably the last to have this problem. After adjusting, fitting and drilling the HS810 and 814 to the HS602 (which went remarkably well, didn't over bend the 814 / 810 or anything) I found that one of the holes in the HS602 web "tongue" is between 1/32" and 3/64" too close to the edge of the "tongue". This is closer than the required 2x hole diameter. The rest of the holes are exactly at 1/4" or more. This was caused by me cutting a little too much off the spar web.....even after all the cautions given by the plans and videos, etc. Just not enough material to work with for an amateur like me. May I drill a new hole for this hole (or holes if I'm not comfortable with exactly 2xd) that would give me required edge distance and rivet spacing? This hole would be slightly off the center line of the rest of the holes on the 814 and 810. Do I have to rebuild the whole front spar (I could do it a lot better and probably quicker this time:), or can I safely fix what I have already done? Bob Moser East Bethel, MN RV-8 Empennage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Compton" <rdcompton(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Van's Alternator
Date: Dec 31, 2000
----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan McKeen" <amckeen(at)twcny.rr.com> Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2000 8:16 AM Subject: RV-List: Van's Alternator > a four inch pulley will hit your cowl, try a 3 inch Concur. I had a four inch pulley on my RV-3...until I noticed a small slit on my cowling where the pulley had worn through. Went back to the original pulley. Didn't know there was a such thing as a 3-inch pulley. Who has them? Randy Compton RV-3A N148CW ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com>
Subject: Re: Heat shield paint for cowl
Date: Dec 31, 2000
I would epoxy Fiberfrax on the inside of the cowl in this area if the heat is serious enough to damage paint. To make it even better, epoxy a piece of .016 stainless on top of the fiberfrax and pop rivet the whole works together from the outside using countersink rivets. Fill and refinish the outside. I have done this before with excellent results. Garth Shearing 75% RV-6A ----- Original Message ----- From: <Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com> Sent: December 31, 2000 6:35 PM Subject: RV-List: Heat shield paint for cowl ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: NEW GARMIN GTX-320 Transponder
Date: Dec 31, 2000
My GTX327 was $1350. Mike Robbins RV8Q wiring & panel Seattle area > > My FBO just sold me a brand new GTX327 for $1421, and it is light-years > ahead of the 320. Just be aware. > > Alex Peterson > Maple Grove, MN > 6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2001
From: Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz>
Subject: Re: Good post did I miss all of the thoughtful solutions
> Several weeks ago there was a post about an RV-? that had ended up on its > back. The rescuers noted that fuel was being ejected from the fuel vents > and landing/ running into the engine compartment via the exhaust pipe/ > cooling air exit. Seems to me that if the problem relates to a plane that is on its back, we could use gravity to block off the end of the vent tube when the plane is upside down. Unfortunately, in inverted flight or any negative G situation the valve will close when you want it to be open, so you might want a manual bypass. What I have in mind is the kind of thing some snorkels have, but in reverse. They have the end of the snorkel facing down, and a pingpong ball in a little plastic cage, so that when the snorkel is underwater, the ping pong ball attempts to float and closes the end of the snorkel. For the fuel vent, have the end of the tube face downward, and suspend a ball just below the tube. This could be on a string going into the tube, or in a cage. When the plane is right way up, the ball hangs below the end of the tube, and air is free to move in or out. When the plane is upside down, the ball falls onto the end of the tube, sealing it. Similarly, you could have a flap valve, hinged and counterbalanced, so that right way up it is open, and upside down the counterbalance closes the valve. Frank. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2001
From: Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au>
Subject: Re: Van's Alternator
In this alternator reliability discussion I would find some information on the type of failures to be very helpful. An alternator should be very reliable and to have repeated failures as have been reported here is strange. Are diodes failing? Are bearings failing? Is the case cracking? Slip ring/brushes failing? What else can be the problem? If it predominantly diode failures - it may be as simple as ESD damage to them during assembly. Doug Gray ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rv660wm(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 01, 2001
Subject: Starting techniques in cold weather??
Living in South Fla, I have not had the experience of trying to start 0-320 in cold weather without primer. (although we do have frost this morning). How much stroking of throttle is required and do you stroke while cranking? Bernie Kerr, SE Fla, 6A flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvmils(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 01, 2001
Subject: need help installing stereo in RV
I'm thinking of installing a car stereo/cd player in my 4.My questions are do I need one with a pre-amp output for the comm?I have a DRE 244 and I would guess that most panel mount stereo comms are the same, and what are builders using for a FM antenna?Are you having any problems with the CD player skipping because of the vibrations? Thanks, Carey Mills -4, 55hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: Re: NEW GARMIN GTX-320 Transponder
Date: Jan 01, 2001
Alex: Stark Avionics sold me my GTX-327 for $1211.00! I have not seen anybody beat his prices and he is in the Yellow Pages. Tom in Ohio ----- Original Message ----- From: Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 10:23 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: NEW GARMIN GTX-320 Transponder > > > Found this on Ebay if anybody is interested. > > Aircraft Spruce sells it for $1615 USD. Pg 391. > > > > > My FBO just sold me a brand new GTX327 for $1421, and it is light-years > ahead of the 320. Just be aware. > > Alex Peterson > Maple Grove, MN > 6A > > > ------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2001
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: ? about car stereo's
--- Rvmils(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > I'm thinking of installing a car stereo/cd player in my 4. My > questions are > do I need one with a pre-amp output for the comm? I have a DRE 244 > and I > would guess that most panel mount stereo comms are the same, and what > are > builders using for a FM antenna? Are you having any problems with > the CD > player skipping because of the vibrations? Here is what I have waiting in the closet for panel work: Model: Panasonic CQ-DPG600 CD Receiver Crutchfield Order #: 133DPG600 price: $259.95 I ordered it online from Crutchfield Electronics. it was recommended by someone on the list - Laird Owens perhaps? Anyway, it was apparently designed for the off-road crowd as it has a 10-second memory to buffer the CD output in case of skipping due to bumps and such. Should work great for Texas summer days down low (that and a crash helmet!). A little pricy, yes... but put everything in the context of percentage of total cost! That's my rationalization, anyway! Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Canopy (Yes, STILL) Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Heat shield paint for cowl
Date: Jan 01, 2001
> >Can anyone recommend a good heat shield paint for the area of the cowl that >is closest to the exhaust? I would like to do this before my cowl gets >coated with oil. > >Thanks, > >Jim Andrews >RV-8A ( finishing up cowl install ) >O-360 A1A Sensenich 85 >N89JA reserved Jim, I used white, high temp automotive engine enamel. It supposedly has resistance to a really intense amount of heat. The white color brightens up the inside of the cowl, making it easier to look at stuff through the oil filler access door during preflight. The paint also helps to seal up the VERY porous honeycomb prepreg that will soak up oil like a sponge. An oil soaked cowl would be a nightmare to paint if you choose to fly first then paint later. I used maybe five rattle cans of the engine paint. Just hosed it on and allowed it to soak into the prepreg, especially inside the lower cowl half. I went lighter on the top side. So far I have absolutely no heat problems from the exhaust system and oil drips wipe off nicely. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD 160 hrs. Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Subject: HS602 and HS810 edge distance
Date: Jan 01, 2001
Bob, I'm probably known to be one of the more 'nitpicky' builders. Small things bother me and as a result I have rebuilt a few things even although other builders have told me it's ok. I know exactly where you are and the dilemma you have. In this case I wouldn't bother redoing anything. You will find later in the building stages that you will have to contend with larger margins than 1/32" for edge distance. Are RV-8 Wings -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert Moser Sent: December 31, 2000 11:21 PM Subject: RV-List: HS602 and HS810 edge distance Happy New Years all, I have a question regarding my recently fitted and drilled fwd spar on my -8 tail. I checked the archives and got REAL close to getting an answer there, but I thought I'd ask again to see if I could get a little closer. >From the archive I see that I am not the first, or probably the last to have this problem. After adjusting, fitting and drilling the HS810 and 814 to the HS602 (which went remarkably well, didn't over bend the 814 / 810 or anything) I found that one of the holes in the HS602 web "tongue" is between 1/32" and 3/64" too close to the edge of the "tongue". This is closer than the required 2x hole diameter. The rest of the holes are exactly at 1/4" or more. This was caused by me cutting a little too much off the spar web.....even after all the cautions given by the plans and videos, etc. Just not enough material to work with for an amateur like me. May I drill a new hole for this hole (or holes if I'm not comfortable with exactly 2xd) that would give me required edge distance and rivet spacing? This hole would be slightly off the center line of the rest of the holes on the 814 and 810. Do I have to rebuild the whole front spar (I could do it a lot better and probably quicker this time:), or can I safely fix what I have already done? Bob Moser East Bethel, MN RV-8 Empennage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2001
From: barry <bpote(at)erols.com>
Subject: Re: Van's Alternator
Hey guys, I could be wrong (it would not be the 1st time!) but I believe the smaller the pulley on the altenator, the faster the alternator turns, all things being equal. Barry RV9a Randy Compton wrote: > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Alan McKeen" <amckeen(at)twcny.rr.com> > To: > Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2000 8:16 AM > Subject: RV-List: Van's Alternator > > > a four inch pulley will hit your cowl, try a 3 inch > > Concur. I had a four inch pulley on my RV-3...until I noticed a small slit > on my cowling where the pulley had worn through. Went back to the original > pulley. > > Didn't know there was a such thing as a 3-inch pulley. Who has them? > > Randy Compton > RV-3A N148CW > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James Oberst" <joberst(at)columbus.rr.com>
Subject: Re: NEW GARMIN GTX-320 Transponder
Date: Jan 01, 2001
This is Garmin's old transponder. Their new one is GTX 327. Jim Oberst ----- Original Message ----- From: Steve Hurlbut <shurlbut(at)island.net> Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 9:45 PM Subject: RV-List: NEW GARMIN GTX-320 Transponder > > Found this on Ebay if anybody is interested. > Aircraft Spruce sells it for $1615 USD. Pg 391. > > Steve Hurlbut > Comox, BC > shurlbut(at)island.net > > http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=534002908 > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: "There I was at 10,000 feet"
Date: Jan 01, 2001
>Thanks to my nose and my RMI engine monitor for alerting me to a problem. >Oh yes, "How was the gas getting to my nose" You query? The gas came out >the carb. vent hole, inside the air cleaner element, overflowed the bottom >gasket of the element, ran into the fiberglass air box, out the drain holes >I drilled and ran out the bottom of the cowl within 3/4" of a four pipe >exhaust. It then flowed down the tunnel and aft to the tail where it >changed direction as a vapor and came into the cockpit via the tail cone. >I >always suspected that the tails pumped in these birds. LUCKY, wasn't I? > >Gary > Gary, Yes, lucky indeed. If you haven't read my story of a VERY similar experience in my -8, please check the archives. Flooded carb bowl, gas gushing into the air box, then into the cowl, leading to very quiet engine and emergency landing. Been there, done that, know EXACTLY what you went through. Took carb apart, no signs of crud but attributed it to piece of fuel-dissolved sealant on carb inlet fitting from inexperienced engine installer. (That would be ME. NEVER use red RTV on ANY fuel fitting.) Glad you made it down safely! Brian Denk RV8 N94BD 160 hrs. hangar doors frozen shut and #1 cyl out for repair. Hope the rest of 2001 is better! Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Starting techniques in cold weather??
Date: Jan 01, 2001
> >Living in South Fla, I have not had the experience of trying to start 0-320 >in cold weather without primer. (although we do have frost this morning). >How >much stroking of throttle is required and do you stroke while cranking? > >Bernie Kerr, SE Fla, 6A flying > Bernie, I'm a firm believer in having a primer installed. If your engine doesn't need it most of the time, then don't use it. When it's cold, it really comes in handy! Jockeying the throttle must be done with caution. It can pump a large amount of fuel into the carb throat, with most of the fuel ending up in the airbox. If the engine backfires and the fuel/air ratio in the carb throat and air box is just right....WHOOOSH...you have an induction fire. This is a rare occurance for sure, but it can happen. I've tried starting it without the primer...using the throttle just for experience sake. I used one full opening of the throttle then back to closed after first charging the lines with the boost pump. Once it started popping, the throttle was teased slightly open until it came to life. The engine didn't like this approach, and sputtered and rattled around a lot, but it did start. If you don't have a primer, consider installing one. My O-360 starts up promptly with three or four squirts in all conditions. My $.02 on the great non-paint primer debate. :) Brian Denk RV8 N94BD Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: fuel/oil fitting sealants
Date: Jan 01, 2001
SNIP**** > Yes, lucky indeed. If you haven't read my story of a VERY similar experience > in my -8, please check the archives. Flooded carb bowl, gas gushing into > the air box, then into the cowl, leading to very quiet engine and emergency > landing. Been there, done that, know EXACTLY what you went through. Took > carb apart, no signs of crud but attributed it to piece of fuel-dissolved > sealant on carb inlet fitting from inexperienced engine installer. (That > would be ME. NEVER use red RTV on ANY fuel fitting.) SNIP**** With this in mind, what, if anything, is being used on oil and gas line fittings where they attach to engine, oil cooler, carb, etc.. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6 fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: Re: NEW GARMIN GTX-320 Transponder
Date: Jan 01, 2001
> Alex: Stark Avionics sold me my GTX-327 for $1211.00! I have not seen > anybody beat his prices and he is in the Yellow Pages. > Tom in Ohio I was aware of Stark, but I am willing to pay a little more to buy locally, plus warrantee won't start until I have the FBO guy over for checkout/etc. Like everything, one must balance all factors. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN 6A ------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2001
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV6-A-QB Pitot Routing
Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote: > > > Thanks Pat and you are right. I took a look at Sam's page and determined the > tank had to come off!!!! Sometimes a QB can cost you time. Boy were there a > lot of screws holding the tank on!! > Tom in Ohio Well, I wish you hadn't gone to the trouble of removing the tank. I see no reason why the pitot line couldn't be secured to the back of the spar. This might require a few holes in the ribs, and a hole to get the tubing to the front of the spar in the cabin, but compared to removing the tank, this would be a very small issue. Good luck with your project, Sam Buchanan "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal ================= > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Pat Hatch <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> > To: > Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 8:23 PM > Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6-A-QB Pitot Routing > > > > > Tom: > > > > I didn't see a reply to your question so...you need to get some 1/4" nylon > > clamps and pop-rivet them to the spar web between the spar and the tank. > I > > believe you can see a picture of this on Sam Buchanan's web site. > > > > Pat Hatch > > RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hrs. TT > > O-320, Hartzell C/S > > RV-6, Fuselage > > O-360, Hartzell C/S > > pat_hatch(at)msn.com > > > > > Now the downside! How does one route the 1\4 in. aluminum pitot > > tube > > > per the plans? I can get the tube between the wing spar and fuel tank > but > > > can't seem to figure out how to secure the tube running between the spar > > and > > > tank?? > > > Tom in > Ohio > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: need help installing stereo in RV
Date: Jan 01, 2001
Carey: I have a Blaupunkt (sp?) AM/FM CD player in my RV-4. I get occasional skipping in the middle of a CD and I think it is probably due to some harmonic vibration that is affecting it. If I put my hand on it, it seem to be OK. On my -6 I'm planning to go with some sort of MP3 player for this reason. I have a Comant AM/FM antenna on the belly, but you probably could get away with one of Bob Archer's marker beacon antennas in a wingtip or even the bottom of the cowl. Pat Hatch RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hrs. TT O-320, Hartzell C/S RV-6, Fuselage O-360, Hartzell C/S pat_hatch(at)msn.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <Rvmils(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 9:27 AM Subject: RV-List: need help installing stereo in RV > > I'm thinking of installing a car stereo/cd player in my 4. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: fuel/oil fitting sealants
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
Date: Jan 01, 2001
01/01/2001 11:18:01 AM >With this in mind, what, if anything, is being used on oil and gas line >fittings where they attach to engine, oil cooler, carb, etc.. >Jerry Calvert >Edmond Ok >-6 fuselage Jerry, I purchased a can of Sealube and Fuelube from ACS and use it everywhere. The Sealube is used on all the aluminum fittings and the Fuelube is used everywhere else. Good stuff and highly recommended by four out of five dentists who fly :-) - Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: RV6-A-QB Pitot Routing
Date: Jan 01, 2001
The Main Sam wrote: > I see no reason why the pitot line couldn't be secured to the back of > the spar. This might require a few holes in the ribs, and a hole to get > the tubing to the front of the spar in the cabin, but compared to > removing the tank, this would be a very small issue. I did just this with plastic tubing (Nylaflo?) thru snap bushings in the ribs with good results. I used an approx 4 ft piece of cheap plastic 1/2 in water pipe as used in lawn irrigation systems etc thru lightening holes where I couldn't put in bushings. I also ran wiring there. I like having the wiring behind the spar. Be sure to secure all this so it can not interfere with control rod and bellcrank, of course. hal RV6a QB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2001
From: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Good post-Did Imiss all the thoughtful solutions?
The check valves we use in race cars are of two types. First there are the ones which are spring loaded slightly to ensure that hay close in all attitudes. Secondly there are ones which have a free floating ball and are therefore closed by gravity. If you were to use the second type there would be no issue of a sealed tank in the normal attitude and it would still solve the problem of an inverted accident. (you install this type of valve such that it is open in the normal upright attitude) In direct answer to your question no I have not calculated the pressures which could possibly be achieved by heating a full tank of cold fuel. This however has never been a problem in cars. Do not however take this to be an assurance that it couldn't be a problem in aircraft as aircraft tanks are CONSIDERABLY lighter than those in race cars which are designed to survive fairly large impact forces. All of this goes out the window of course if your "accident" deforms the fuel tanks and their volume is drastically changed. With respect to inverted flight etc. using a check valve of either type is not a problem as under all conditions in which the engine is running the tanks vents are always sucking in air to replace the consumed fuel and check valves are free flowing in that direction. In summary I would offer that the safest solution, if you wish to follow this method, is to use a gravity sealed check valve installed to close in any unusual attitudes. This leaves you with a totally stock fuel vent system in most circumstances, plus a means whereby the tank vents close themselves should the aircraft (and lets hope this NEVER happens) comes to rest inverted. Hope this clarifies somewhat, Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2001
From: old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: fuel/oil fitting sealants
fuel lube works well! Jerry Calvert wrote: > > SNIP**** > > Yes, lucky indeed. If you haven't read my story of a VERY similar > experience > > in my -8, please check the archives. Flooded carb bowl, gas gushing into > > the air box, then into the cowl, leading to very quiet engine and > emergency > > landing. Been there, done that, know EXACTLY what you went through. Took > > carb apart, no signs of crud but attributed it to piece of fuel-dissolved > > sealant on carb inlet fitting from inexperienced engine installer. (That > > would be ME. NEVER use red RTV on ANY fuel fitting.) > SNIP**** > > With this in mind, what, if anything, is being used on oil and gas line > fittings where they attach to engine, oil cooler, carb, etc.. > > Jerry Calvert > Edmond Ok > -6 fuselage > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2001
From: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Good post-Did Imiss all the thoughtful solutions?
The check valves we use in race cars are of two types. First there are the ones which are spring loaded slightly to ensure that hay close in all attitudes. Secondly there are ones which have a free floating ball and are therefore closed by gravity. If you were to use the second type there would be no issue of a sealed tank in the normal attitude and it would still solve the problem of an inverted accident. (you install this type of valve such that it is open in the normal upright attitude) In direct answer to your question no I have not calculated the pressures which could possibly be achieved by heating a full tank of cold fuel. This however has never been a problem in cars. Do not however take this to be an assurance that it couldn't be a problem in aircraft as aircraft tanks are CONSIDERABLY lighter than those in race cars which are designed to survive fairly large impact forces. All of this goes out the window of course if your "accident" deforms the fuel tanks and their volume is drastically changed. With respect to inverted flight etc. using a check valve of either type is not a problem as under all conditions in which the engine is running the tanks vents are always sucking in air to replace the consumed fuel and check valves are free flowing in that direction. In summary I would offer that the safest solution, if you wish to follow this method, is to use a gravity sealed check valve installed to close in any unusual attitudes. This leaves you with a totally stock fuel vent system in most circumstances, plus a means whereby the tank vents close themselves should the aircraft (and lets hope this NEVER happens) comes to rest inverted. Hope this clarifies somewhat, Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2001
From: Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com>
Subject: WigWag Update
The WigWag Solid State Controller is in production. We have built 17 and shipped 14. We have had several units running since last spring. Non have failed. Here are the main features. Safety. First, you are significantly more likely to be seen or noticed due to the perception that there is movement where you plane is when the leading edge lights flash in one spot and then flash in a different spot. We have all been trained to be alert to motion. Second, the WigWag flash rate has been set to insure that the bulbs come up to full brightness. This means you will be noticed from a greater distance. Greater choose of switches for you panel. Can use less expensive switch(s). Switches last longer. Because the WSSC internally switches on the high current required to power the leading edge lights, no large current capacity switches are needed on the panel. The switches on the panel are only used to communicate to the WSSC how to control the leading edge lights. Commanding the WSSC is accomplished by switching these wires to ground. When switched to ground, the current in these wires is very small; less than 10ma. As a result, the switches on the panel that control the functions of the leading edge lights can be small and inexpensive. If you would like to design your panel using a special style of switches and a large current carrying version is not available in this style, the WSSC is a great solution. Easy wiring. Extending 8 color coded wires are all that is required to install leading edge lights, wigwag function and redundant +12V power. Two wires go to the master bus. One wire goes to ground. One wire goes to each of the leading edge lights. Three wires go to the panel switches. Redundant power. Two + 12V inputs from the master bus go into the WSSC. If a fuse or circuit breaker pops, the WSSC continues to function and one of the leading edge lights continues to operate. It would be most unfortunate if a fuse blew and you had no landing lights when you had two lights with bulbs. There are many more features such as bulb warmers and bulb out indicators. To learn more, request a very nice data sheet in Acrobat format by mailing me your email address. For just safety, redundant reliability and ease of wiring, the WSSC is a bargain. Cost $90 dollars plus $5.00 shipping. Send a check to Robert Haan 14270 SW Koven Court Tigard, OR 97224 Delivery 4 to 6 weeks. Also, email that a check is coming so we can expedite your delivery. Bob Bob Haan http://easystreet.com/~bhaan/ bhaan(at)easystreet.com Portland, OR RV6A 24461 Installing the Wind Screen ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2001
From: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Van's Alternator
You are certainly not wrong this time. Changing from a 4" to a 3" pulley on the alternator will INCREASE the alternator speed by a factor of 1.33 . In other words your alternator will now turn 33% faster than it used to. Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: EI Engine Monitors
Date: Jan 01, 2001
Is anyone using the Electronics International engine monitors? Either the Ultimate Bar Graph http://www.buy-ei.com/UBG16.htm or the Ultimate Engine Analyzer http://www.buy-ei.com/US-8A.htm Not much in the archives about these units. Ross ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BPattonsoa(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 01, 2001
Subject: Cowl heating transfer to rivets
I have about 170 hours on my -6A with the old fiberglass cowling. The ship is painted with Randolphs polyurethane and their epoxy primer. An interesting thing is going on where there are rivets holding things on to the cowl, like the oil door backup ring, the oil door latch, and the sides where rivets hold the hinges. It appears that the rivet shop heads are heating up, and being excellent heat conductors, the heads are getting hot. As a result the paint is bubbling up over the rivet heads. Don't know if this is my special problem, but I suspect it is not. My Lyc runs fine and temperatures are in the normal range. Most of the problem areas are behind the rear baffle where the only ventilation is the blast tubes to the mags. I would suggest that any sort of insulation placed over the shop heads, as little as a layer of fiberglass or a dab of silicon glue on each head would provide enough insulation to prevent the problem. Once the bubbles show up, you are stuck. Do this before flying. For me, I plan to replace the cowl with one of the new ones at some time in the future. The older glass cowls were not the best feature on the RVs. Took way too much work to get them looking good, and even then they keep reminding me why I love metal. Bruce Patton 596S RV-6A, flying a lot ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2001
From: Ray Montagne <ac6qj(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: need help installing stereo in RV
Look for a CD player with anti vibration features. This is simply a large memory buffer that data is read into from the CD - ahead of play time. If a skip occurs, the data discontinuity is detected in the memory buffer and the data is stitched back together before play. This is a common feature in portable CD players. Ray Montagne Cupertino, CA > >Carey: > >I have a Blaupunkt (sp?) AM/FM CD player in my RV-4. I get occasional >skipping in the middle of a CD and I think it is probably due to some >harmonic vibration that is affecting it. If I put my hand on it, it seem to >be OK. On my -6 I'm planning to go with some sort of MP3 player for this >reason. I have a Comant AM/FM antenna on the belly, but you probably could >get away with one of Bob Archer's marker beacon antennas in a wingtip or >even the bottom of the cowl. > >Pat Hatch >RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hrs. TT >O-320, Hartzell C/S >RV-6, Fuselage >O-360, Hartzell C/S >pat_hatch(at)msn.com > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: <Rvmils(at)AOL.COM> >To: >Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 9:27 AM >Subject: RV-List: need help installing stereo in RV > > >> >> I'm thinking of installing a car stereo/cd player in my 4. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Subject: Dual Lightspeed Engineering Plasma II Electronics Ignition Installation
Date: Jan 01, 2001
I need to ask a few questions from someone who has installed a second Plasma II electronic ignition system in their RV. I have one, and have ordered a second unit, but there are a few questions regarding the physical aspects of its installation... I need to "pick someone's brains." Please contact me off list if you have put two of these units in your plane. Thanks John RV6A Flying Salida, CO ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2001
From: C&F Hiatt <hiattcf(at)earthlink.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Win98; en-US; m18) Gecko/20001108 Netscape6/6.0
Subject: Re: Chamfering wing skin overlap area]
-------- Original Message -------- Subject: Re: RV-List: Chamfering wing skin overlap area Date: Mon, 01 Jan 2001 12:13:21 -0600 From: C&F Hiatt <hiattcf@earthlinknet> Sure, If this doesn't explain it clearly please let me know Mark a line on the underneath skin down 1 1/4" from the top edge where it rests on the spar, at that point drill a hole 1/16 to 1/8" diameter-- prevents cracking Now cut the underneath skin along this line until you reach the hole, then cut the same skin at a right angle to the first cut over to the edge of the skin Try to make the first cus accurately so that the upper and lower skins make a clean line together The result will be a square notch on the underneath skin that ends about 3/8" above the next skin rivet hole Then both skins lie on the spar, and no filing I used a Dremel tool for the cuts - Very neat ____top edge_________upper skin | | 1 1/4" | | |---cut line----O | | | | Looks sorta like that Good luck Fred barry wrote: > > Could you reword this? I don't quite get the picture > Barry RV9a Wings > > C&F Hiatt wrote: > >> >> Listers, >> >> I used a method suggested by Bill Benedict when he was last here in >> Minnesota He said to drill a hole about 1/2" above the rivet just below >> the spar flange and where the skin will overlap, then cut the lower skin >> in a sguare wedge from the edge to the hole and then up to the top This >> looks perfectly level at the spar and becomes unnoticeable further down >> the overlap You can use the same method at the aft end of the skin >> overlap where the Flap or aileron fits so that there is no overlap to >> scratch the surfaces Looks great! >> >> Fred >> >> Jim Bower wrote: >> >> >>> >>> I looked in the archives, but couldn't find anything on this subject that >>> helped, so >>> >>> What is the best technique for thinning the wing skins at their forward >>> overlap point? If we are trying to achieve a flush joint with the tank >>> skin, then I believe that an equal amount of material needs to be removed >>> from the top of the inboard skin and the bottom of the outboard skin, right? >>> >>> The best way I can think of to do that is with my belt sander, but I am sure >>> open to all the good ideas and experiences out there on the list! >>> >>> BTWit really DOES hurt when you try to drill into your finger! >>> >>> >>> Jim Bower >>> St Louis, MO >>> RV-6A N143DJ >>> Wings >>> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorermsncom >>> >>> >> >> -- >> Fred & Carolynn Hiatt Tel: 952 898-4328 >> hiattcf@earthlinknet >> Fax: 952 898-5895 >> >> http://homeearthlinknet~hiattcf/ >> > > > -- Fred & Carolynn Hiatt Tel: 952 898-4328 hiattcf@earthlinknet Fax: 952 898-5895 http://homeearthlinknet~hiattcf/ -- Fred & Carolynn Hiatt Tel: 952 898-4328 hiattcf@earthlinknet Fax: 952 898-5895 http://homeearthlinknet~hiattcf/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.)
Date: Jan 01, 2001
Subject: Re: NEW GARMIN GTX-320 Transponder
Some of us think AC is reputable. I have bought a lot of stuff from them and they have treated me real good. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 01, 2001
Subject: Re: Color Moving Map
In a message dated 1/1/01 11:10:27 AM Pacific Standard Time, nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes: > I really like the Anywhere Map Compaq PDA but if I add something like this I > would like a larger screen. (I can't find the actual screen size) > Norman, I am installing the compaq IPAQ version in the middle of my panel flush mounted with room left over for a bigger screen when they become available. Im predicting (hoping hard) laptops will be replaced soon with a version sized somewhere in between the handheld and the current size laptop. However the present size screen is easy to read when it is that close to your face. Kevin Shannon -9A wiring and plumbing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Color Moving Map
Date: Jan 01, 2001
I have also been considering the Compaq IPAQ setup. I don't know anything about the IPAQ, but I liked the capability of adding flight planning software, checklists, and whatever. Recently, there has been a thread on car stereos being installed in RV's. Hmmmm....wonder if the IPAQ has the capablility of playing MP3 audio files through the intercom while also running the Map Anywhere software? Would imagine it would need amplification, but there would be no skipping the beat! Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6 fuselage ----- Original Message ----- From: <Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 1:47 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Color Moving Map > > In a message dated 1/1/01 11:10:27 AM Pacific Standard Time, > nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes: > > > I really like the Anywhere Map Compaq PDA but if I add something like this I > > would like a larger screen. (I can't find the actual screen size) > > > Norman, I am installing the compaq IPAQ version in the middle of my panel > flush mounted with room left over for a bigger screen when they become > available. Im predicting (hoping hard) laptops will be replaced soon with a > version sized somewhere in between the handheld and the current size laptop. > However the present size screen is easy to read when it is that close to your > face. > Kevin Shannon > -9A wiring and plumbing > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2001
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: Good post-Did Imiss all the thoughtful solutions?
> >The check valves we use in race cars are of two types. First there >are the ones which are spring >loaded slightly to ensure that hay close in all attitudes. Secondly >there are ones which have a free >floating ball and are therefore closed by gravity. If you were to >use the second type there would be >no issue of a sealed tank in the normal attitude and it would still >solve the problem of an inverted >accident. (you install this type of valve such that it is open in >the normal upright attitude) In >direct answer to your question no I have not calculated the >pressures which could possibly be >achieved by heating a full tank of cold fuel. This however has never >been a problem in cars. Do not >however take this to be an assurance that it couldn't be a problem >in aircraft as aircraft tanks are >CONSIDERABLY lighter than those in race cars which are designed to >survive fairly large impact >forces. All of this goes out the window of course if your "accident" >deforms the fuel tanks and >their volume is drastically changed. With respect to inverted flight >etc. using a check valve of >either type is not a problem as under all conditions in which the >engine is running the tanks vents >are always sucking in air to replace the consumed fuel and check >valves are free flowing in that >direction. In summary I would offer that the safest solution, if you >wish to follow this method, is >to use a gravity sealed check valve installed to close in any >unusual attitudes. This leaves you >with a totally stock fuel vent system in most circumstances, plus a >means whereby the tank vents >close themselves should the aircraft (and lets hope this NEVER >happens) comes to rest inverted. > >Hope this clarifies somewhat, > >Bob > Bob, I'm interested in learning where to get the gravity sealed check valves. Who makes them, and do you have any part numbers at hand? I might make this mod to my system. One side only at first, and I wouldn't use that side for take-off and landing until I had built up confidence in it. If it worked out, I would then modify the second side. Take care, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy) Ottawa, Canada http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Eaves" <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com>
Subject: Attaching eyes to hinge pins
Date: Jan 01, 2001
Make it completely from stainless pin stock - Cold bend the eye into the end. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 7:59 PM Subject: RV-List: Attaching eyes to hinge pins Can someone tell me the preferred way to attach the safety eye to the cowl forward hinge pins? Weld, solder, JB weld? Does one usually use steel or stainless for the safety eye? Thanks, Jim Andrews RV-8A ( finishing up cowl install ) O-360 A1A Sensenich 85 N89JA reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.)
Date: Jan 01, 2001
Subject: Re: Alternator Source
Mark Landoll is a real solid guy.I have had good sucess with his alternator on my RV4 (+400 hrs.) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2001
From: barry <bpote(at)erols.com>
Subject: Re: BUILT IN TILT?
DO ALL RVs need a "BUILT IN TILT" on the gauges? What is that all about. Is it the same for the NINE? Barry bcbraem(at)home.com wrote: > > > NOTE: NO BUILT-IN TILT ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2001
From: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: EI Engine Monitors
I've got a UBG-16 in my RV-4. I think it's a great unit. The only thing I have active on it at this time is the EGT/CHT. The ability to lean to best economy while seeing everything at once is nice plus it has the LEAN mode that lets you know when you've got it there. I haven't programmed any alarms yet. I'll probably hook up the serial connection just to play with the trend analysis stuff on a portable computer. Mike > >Is anyone using the Electronics International engine monitors? Either the >Ultimate Bar Graph > http://www.buy-ei.com/UBG16.htm > >or the Ultimate Engine Analyzer http://www.buy-ei.com/US-8A.htm > >Not much in the archives about these units. > >Ross > > Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Aurora, OR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 01, 2001
Subject: Re: Battery Source
Hi all, I searched the archives and did not find much info on battery sources. My research for a good battery concluded that I want a 17 AH RG battery as reccomended by our good buddy lectric Bob. Two of the ones he reccomends are the Powersonic PS-12180 and its couzin the Panasonic LCRD1271P. I just bought mine at Batteries.com. they have the Powersonic PS12180 for $61.64 and will ship USPS for $.99. A pretty good deal in my opinion for $62 bucks and some change. A related question: does the alternator Niagra Air Parts sells have an internal fan, and is its internal regulator OK for our RVs or does it need an additional over voltage protector. I am in no way affiliated with batteries.com Kevin Shannon -9A wiring and plumbing, painting interior ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2001
From: earl fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Color Moving Map
How you guys goin to find time to fly the plane if your fiddling with stereos and computers? Jerry Calvert wrote: > > > I have also been considering the Compaq IPAQ setup. I don't know anything > about the IPAQ, but I liked the capability of adding flight planning > software, checklists, and whatever. > > Recently, there has been a thread on car stereos being installed in RV's. > Hmmmm....wonder if the IPAQ has the capablility of playing MP3 audio files > through the intercom while also running the Map Anywhere software? Would > imagine it would need amplification, but there would be no skipping the > beat! > > Jerry Calvert > Edmond Ok > -6 fuselage > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM> > To: > Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 1:47 PM > Subject: Re: RV-List: Color Moving Map > > > > > In a message dated 1/1/01 11:10:27 AM Pacific Standard Time, > > nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes: > > > > > I really like the Anywhere Map Compaq PDA but if I add something like > this I > > > would like a larger screen. (I can't find the actual screen size) > > > > > Norman, I am installing the compaq IPAQ version in the middle of my panel > > flush mounted with room left over for a bigger screen when they become > > available. Im predicting (hoping hard) laptops will be replaced soon with > a > > version sized somewhere in between the handheld and the current size > laptop. > > However the present size screen is easy to read when it is that close to > your > > face. > > Kevin Shannon > > -9A wiring and plumbing > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Winters" <dtw_rv6(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Van's Alternator -> airframe ground
Date: Jan 01, 2001
Aluminum Oxide is a better insulator than glass! That is why aluminum wire is no longer used for residential wiring. If it is used at all for an electrical connection, the connection is coated with an anti-corrosive compound, and sealed from the elements. Can you use the frame as a ground? Sure. I'll bet we have plenty of planes out there like that. What is the most reliable connection? A separate grounding system. Your choice. Don Winters Wings http://www.geocities.com/dtw_rv6 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of czechsix(at)juno.com Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2000 6:46 AM Subject: RV-List: Van's Alternator -> airframe ground Guys, remember, the anodized Phlogistron spar isn't the only thing touching the fuselage! You have the rear spar attach point, the fuel tank attach point, the fuel and vent lines, the aileron and flap controls, the root fairing, etc etc. I should think at least one of those things would provide a good enough ground path for the nav lights to work. Probly would be a good idea to ground the lights to a rib ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Winters" <dtw_rv6(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: aileron bellcrank overcenter?
Date: Jan 01, 2001
I plan to mount a couple of stops on my bellcrank that will hit the rib it is mounted to before it can go past dead-center Getting past the inspector would not be my primary concern. I'm more worried about the potential for jammed controls. Don Wings http://www.geocities.com/dtw_rv6 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gordon Giger Sent: Thursday, December 30, 1982 9:52 PM Subject: RV-List: aileron bellcrank overcenter? With the ailerons hooked up on my 6-a,they feel nice and free on the control stick.however,when lifting them from the down position by hand they feel sticky the first inch.it is not in the hinges,it has to be that the bellcrank is going over center.now if i adjust the torque tube to cure it in that direction,it lookes like it will just go over center in the other,and it would be felt in the control stick.any idea's? will it pass FAA if not felt in the stick? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WFACT01(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 01, 2001
Subject: Re: Van's Alternator
DECREASE TOM Thomas M. Whelan Whelan Farms Airport Post Office Box 426 249 Hard Hill Road North Bethlehem, CT 06751 PH 203-266-5300 FAX 203-266-5140 e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com EAA Chapter 1097, President RV-8 IO-540 LYC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Eaves" <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com>
Subject: Firewall
Date: Jan 01, 2001
"Is a single heat muff adequate (read "I like it hot")" NO! With 2 muffs & 1/2 springs added inside for heat risers - It was still cold, Cold Cold! OAT 20F I'm going to try routing the air from one muff into the other then into the aircraft. I like it HOT also... If that don't work I will slow down the air flow into the muffs... "Where is the best place to penetrate the firewall, left/right/high/low" I ran mine through the right side in front of the passengers feet - I used the other valve - "Stainless" (On/Off - Hot/Cold) and placed it on the right because of summer operations when I can turn it full cold because my #1 passenger "My Wife" likes it Cold Cold Cold In the Summer. Anyway I will keep the list posted on my efforts to heat up my RV this winter... From several RVs here - They suffer from cold feet in the winter as well - So I hope to solve this for those who desire to fly when it is cold & Sever Clear... Don RV6 Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Heater (was firewall)
Date: Jan 01, 2001
I have two Robins Wings heat muffs in series in my 6A. With the sun shining brightly and 10 F OAT it is very warm in the cockpit: 65 F monitored near the canopy at F621A. I have to turn down the heat. Under a broken sky at 5 F OAT three hours before sunset, it was 55 F near the canopy; 15 minutes before sunset it dropped to 45 F in the cockpit near the canopy. There is a Radio Shack indoor/outdoor thermometer Velcro'ed to the F621A with the outdoor probe near the wing tip in undisturbed air. I've not yet flown at night, but I'm sure it would not be comfortable for me for long with 5-10 F OAT. The greenhouse effect from the canopy in bright sunlight is impressive. I have always flown in shirtsleeves without gloves in my C172 and I am trying to do the same in the RV6A. My heater mixer valve (VENT DL-01) is on the right lower firewall. It has a PVC 90 deg elbow with a 1-inch hole bored in it to allow some air to the passenger side. The rest of the air goes through a two-inch scat and is dumped behind the pilot's rudder pedals. My feet are always warm. I have a few leaks from around the eyeball vents (Van's black ones). The ram air pressure from the NACA vents is astounding! Little 0.020 wide slots leak a lot of air! I seem to have no canopy leaks whatever (tip up) and I don't think I have any leaks from the wing attach area. I love winter flying so I installed the two muffs and I would like even more heat, but so far what I have obtained is marginally adequate. I don't understand the physics of the springs (because the area of the spring represents less than 1% of the heat muff or pipe area) so I haven't tried them. On our last flight I experimented with reducing the air flow with the internal damper (I have the mixer/flow restrictor gadget) to see if a reduced flow volume of hotter air was better -- I didn't notice a big difference but I need to take more data. Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 26 hours Hampshire, IL C38 -----Original Message----- From: Don Eaves <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com> Date: Monday, January 01, 2001 6:15 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Firewall > > >"Is a single heat muff adequate (read "I like it hot")" > >NO! With 2 muffs & 1/2 springs added inside for heat risers - It was still >cold, Cold Cold! OAT 20F I'm going to try routing the air from one muff >into the other then into the aircraft. I like it HOT also... If that don't >work I will slow down the air flow into the muffs... > >"Where is the best place to penetrate the firewall, left/right/high/low" > >I ran mine through the right side in front of the passengers feet - I used >the other valve - "Stainless" (On/Off - Hot/Cold) and placed it on the right >because of summer operations when I can turn it full cold because my #1 >passenger "My Wife" likes it Cold Cold Cold In the Summer. > >Anyway I will keep the list posted on my efforts to heat up my RV this >winter... > >From several RVs here - They suffer from cold feet in the winter as well - >So I hope to solve this for those who desire to fly when it is cold & Sever >Clear... > >Don >RV6 Flying > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Web site update
Date: Jan 01, 2001
For those interested, I have posted several updates to my web site... www.rv-8.com. Updates include... -A trick solution for your emergency com antenna on the 'Products & ideas' page http://www.rv-8.com/pgIdeasProducts.htm -Pics of my compliance with the fuel tank pickup service notice. http://www.rv-8.com/pgWings.htm -My cowling is now 99% done. http://www.rv-8.com/pgPlenumCowl.htm -An update on the painting, see the 'Painting page http://www.rv-8.com/pgPainting.htm Happy New Year! Randy Lervold RV-8, #80500, painting www.rv-8.com Home Wing VAF ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2001
From: Kent Ashton <kjashton(at)vnet.net>
Subject: Re: Dual Lightspeed Engineering Plasma II Electronics Ignition
Installation John, I'm doing the wiring for a dual plasma ign on my Cozy. Two 17 AH batteries, one alternator, crank triggers and hall-effect trigger on a mag hole. I'm flying Klaus's older ign on another cozy with a mag backup. --Kent Ashton John wrote: > > I need to ask a few questions from someone who has installed a second Plasma > II electronic ignition system in their RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 01, 2001
Subject: Re: Twisted Fuel Tanks
IF YOU'RE TALKING ABOUT YOUR LEADING EDGE AS YOU SIGHT DOWN IT FROM THE WING TIP, I HAVE THE SAME THING ON BOTH OF MY WINGS AND I HAVE SEVERAL FRIENDS THAT SHOW THE SAME THING TO VARYING DEGREES. DOESN'T SEEM TO DO ANYTHING ADVERSE. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Fuel injection PSI
Date: Jan 01, 2001
Fellow Listers: Does anyone know what a "normal" PSI reading would be for a Bendix FI system? My newly acquired RV-4 (AEIO-360) reads 25 psi all the time (boost pump on or off). I'm sure this is fine, but just curious as I have nothing to compare with. Thanks Doug ================ Doug Weiler Hudson, WI 715-386-1239 dougweil(at)pressenter.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2001
From: Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: aileron bellcrank overcenter?
If you don't build it like according to Van's plans with the slight overcenter you will never get the full aileron deflection that Van publishes. The overcenter condition is not a safety issue and once you get the ailerons and bellcranks rigged you'll understand why. The overcenter condition only happens on the down aileron and requires pulling past the overcenter to move the aileron the other direction this will never result in binding if built per Van's specs. Gary Zilik Don Winters wrote: > > I plan to mount a couple of stops on my bellcrank that will hit the rib it > is mounted to before it can go past dead-center > > Getting past the inspector would not be my primary concern. I'm more > worried about the potential for jammed controls. > > Don > Wings > http://www.geocities.com/dtw_rv6 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2001
From: Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator Choices.
One other point about the Landoll alternator is that they are rebuilt/ovehauled units. The nippo from Niagra is bran spanking new. Gary Alan McKeen wrote: > > Mark Landoll's 35 AMP alternator is the very same unit that Van sells with a > regulator mounted to a bracket attached to the back of the housing. I would > avoid that unit because of the same reasons Van's appears to fail, RPM and > temperature that this older technology alternator is not designed for. I do > not know what Mark's 60 AMP unit is like. Single V pulleys of various > diameter can be found at automobile racing shops or in their catalogs, > however the stock pulley is 2.75 inches and we know that the 4 inch pulley > available from aircraft spruce will probably hit you cowl. A three inch > pulley is better than stock but not much. So, the better solution is to use > an alternator that is designed for the RPM that will result from > installation on our Lycoming engines and has internal cooling fans. The > newer 40, and 50/60 AMP nippondenso units such as from Chevy Sprint or > Suzuki Samuri as well as the unit from niagraairparts.com appear to meet > those criteria. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2001
From: Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Battery Source
Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > Hi all, I searched the archives and did not find much info on battery > sources. My research for a good battery concluded that I want a 17 AH RG > battery as reccomended by our good buddy lectric Bob. Two of the ones he > reccomends are the Powersonic PS-12180 and its couzin the Panasonic > LCRD1271P. I just bought mine at Batteries.com. they have the Powersonic > PS12180 for $61.64 and will ship USPS for $.99. > A pretty good deal in my opinion for $62 bucks and some change. > A related question: does the alternator Niagra Air Parts sells have an > internal fan, and is its internal regulator OK for our RVs or does it need an > additional over voltage protector. Works great in our RV's and it is new new new, not remanufactured, small and has internal fans. Note the plural on fans. Don't know nothin about the Panasonic battery but I'll sure go to bat for my Oddessy. Twice the master has been left on and the battery drained to less than .5 volt. Charge it back up and it is like new. Try that with a lead acid battery. Sort of pricy at 150 bucks but Batteries Plus had them on sale awhile back for 100 bucks. Gary Zilik ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us>
Subject: Winged Camlocks
Date: Jan 01, 2001
Skybolt carries them. WWW.Skybolt.com. Does any one know where ACS or Van lists the oil door Camlock that has the finger operated wings on it? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2001
From: Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: BUILT IN TILT?
Only the Artificial Horizon needs this tilt. The Turn coordinator may also if you want it calibrated for a two minute turn. Gary barry wrote: > > DO ALL RVs need a "BUILT IN TILT" on the gauges? What is that all about. > Is it the same for the NINE? > Barry > > bcbraem(at)home.com wrote: > > > > > > NOTE: NO BUILT-IN TILT > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Subject: Re: Heater (was firewall)
Date: Jan 01, 2001
Listers: I realize I live in a warm climate but I do believe trying to fly in winter in shirt sleeves may not be wise. Considering the consequences of a forced landing in winter weather I have always considered it the better part of valor to go ahead and wear boots and good jackets during winter weather. Maybe having a heater that is not so good forces us to dress appropriately for the weather outdoors in the season that we are flying. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP Flying http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvmils(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 01, 2001
Subject: Re: Heater (was firewall)
Dennis, I just added 7/16 springs to my muff's(Robbins). They fit great under the muff's and I wrap the pipe from flange to flange, I flew this afternoon and did notice a slight increase, but not as much as I hope. It only took an hour and cost about 6 bucks for the springs at Home Depot. Blue Skies, Carey Mills -4, 56hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvmils(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 01, 2001
Subject: Re: Fuel injection PSI
Hey Doug, 25 seems to be right on the money, although I get 30 when I turn on my boost (Airflow Performance) and it drops to 27 at times. Later, Carey Mills -4, 56hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvmils(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 01, 2001
Subject: Re: Fuel injection PSI
BTW my book has 18 psi as your minimum. Carey Mills ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2001
From: Tim Bronson <IMAV8N(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Color Moving Map
Hi Folks, Earl Fortner wrote: "How you guys goin to find time to fly the plane if your fiddling with stereos and computers?" Excellent point. Now that 2001 (as in, "A Space Odyssey") is here, it might be an appropriate time to think about whether this high-tech stuff works for us, or is it the other way around? As I contemplate choices for GPS equipment, I remember how refreshing it was to fly a J-3 with NO radios whatsoever. It would be a shame for any of us to have the joy of flying be compromised by the perceived need to select, enter, modify, delete, zoom, pan, program, etc. Aviate, navigate, communicate. And enjoy. Tim - stepping off philospher's stone - Pittsburgh ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2001
From: Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: Van's Alternator
After listening to this discussion on Van's alternators failing, I went out yesterday to wash my 6 and afterwards found that the alternator wouldn't work. Turns out that the problem was a wire I left off when changing a breaker - BUT - in the troubleshooting process I disassembled the alternator and found what I would call a rather poor example of a rebuild. They had painted over grease in several places and the brushes and commutator(slip ring) were covered with grease from the rear bearing (after only 45hrs). My experience with rebuilt alternators etc, over the past 40 years, has not been very good. Not that it isn't possible to get a good rebuild - most of my life has been spent repairing and rebuilding stuff and I know it CAN be done right, but it usually isn't. So just remember when you buy something that's "rebuilt" it's a crapshoot. Dave Doug Gray wrote: > > In this alternator reliability discussion I would find some information > on the type of failures to be very helpful. An alternator should be > very reliable and to have repeated failures as have been reported here > is strange. > > Are diodes failing? Are bearings failing? Is the case cracking? Slip > ring/brushes failing? What else can be the problem? > > If it predominantly diode failures - it may be as simple as ESD damage > to them during assembly. > > Doug Gray > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Berryhill" <dwberryhill(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Good post-Did Imiss all the thoughtful solutions?
Date: Jan 01, 2001
> > > >The check valves we use in race cars are of two types. First there > >are the ones which are spring > >loaded slightly to ensure that hay close in all attitudes. Secondly > >there are ones which have a free > >floating ball and are therefore closed by gravity. What do aerobatic planes use to keep from losing fuel when inverted? Dave Berryhill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Color Moving Map
Date: Jan 01, 2001
Earl, This stuff isn't for the pilot! He's having too much fun flying the plane.....the computer and stereo is to give the passenger something to do so he/she can have some fun too!! Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6 fuselage ----- Original Message ----- From: earl fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 4:27 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Color Moving Map > > How you guys goin to find time to fly the plane if your fiddling > with stereos and computers? > > Jerry Calvert wrote: > > > > > > I have also been considering the Compaq IPAQ setup. I don't know anything > > about the IPAQ, but I liked the capability of adding flight planning > > software, checklists, and whatever. > > > > Recently, there has been a thread on car stereos being installed in RV's. > > Hmmmm....wonder if the IPAQ has the capablility of playing MP3 audio files > > through the intercom while also running the Map Anywhere software? Would > > imagine it would need amplification, but there would be no skipping the > > beat! > > > > Jerry Calvert > > Edmond Ok > > -6 fuselage > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: <Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM> > > To: > > Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 1:47 PM > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Color Moving Map > > > > > > > > In a message dated 1/1/01 11:10:27 AM Pacific Standard Time, > > > nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes: > > > > > > > I really like the Anywhere Map Compaq PDA but if I add something like > > this I > > > > would like a larger screen. (I can't find the actual screen size) > > > > > > > Norman, I am installing the compaq IPAQ version in the middle of my panel > > > flush mounted with room left over for a bigger screen when they become > > > available. Im predicting (hoping hard) laptops will be replaced soon with > > a > > > version sized somewhere in between the handheld and the current size > > laptop. > > > However the present size screen is easy to read when it is that close to > > your > > > face. > > > Kevin Shannon > > > -9A wiring and plumbing > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.)
Date: Jan 01, 2001
Subject: Re: Heater (was firewall)
Be careful about wrapping a spring around your exhaust pipe inside the muffler heater. At first the inside of the cockpit filled with smoke and my instructor and I were choking and had tears in our eyes even though I turned the heater control off . If you do this ,don't turn on the cabin heat for the first 5 hours in order for your very hot exhaust pipe to burn off whatever the doorspring or whatever spring you use was dipped in or coated with.It can really stink up your cockpit. I don't know if it is a health factor or not but I am sure it did not do me any good. The idea is to slow the air down and give it more mass to heat. George O's tapes showing larger and more holes in the muffler heater intake and smaller and fewer holes in the exhaust I believe may be a better system ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2001
From: Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Re: Heater (was firewall)
Would stainless steel pot scrubbers be more efficient? Rvmils(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > Dennis, > I just added 7/16 springs to my muff's(Robbins). They fit great under the > muff's and I wrap the pipe from flange to flange, I flew this afternoon and > did notice a slight increase, but not as much as I hope. It only took an > hour and cost about 6 bucks for the springs at Home Depot. > Blue Skies, > Carey Mills > -4, 56hrs > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.)
Date: Jan 01, 2001
Subject: Re: Alternator Source
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 02, 2001
Subject: Re: Heater (was firewall)
In a message dated 1/1/01 6:23:12 PM Pacific Standard Time, n5lp(at)carlsbad.net writes: << I realize I live in a warm climate but I do believe trying to fly in winter in shirt sleeves may not be wise. Considering the consequences of a forced landing in winter weather I have always considered it the better part of valor to go ahead and wear boots and good jackets during winter weather. Maybe having a heater that is not so good forces us to dress appropriately for the weather outdoors in the season that we are flying. >> I was considering this very notion yesterday as I was returning to Livermore from Las Vegas over the towering Sierra at 14,500 ft. For about 20 minutes there's just no place to go in case of an emergency. We have good heaters vents (2) and I am usually just wearing my beat up old A2 or Van's flight jacket with no consideration that we might go down. You make an excellent point, but any landing on that granite would probably kill me anyway ; ). -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CW9371(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 02, 2001
Subject: Re: need help installing stereo in RV
In a message dated 1/1/2001 12:27:11 PM Central Standard Time, ac6qj(at)earthlink.net writes: << Look for a CD player with anti vibration features. This is simply a large memory buffer that data is read into from the CD - ahead of play time. If a skip occurs, the data discontinuity is detected in the memory buffer and the data is stitched back together before play. This is a common feature in portable CD players. Ray Montagne Cupertino, CA >> big thing isnt the memory as some players have high memory, but they don't preform well with any vibration. I used to be in install car stereos, compete all that good stuff. You want to look for one with atleast 3 seconds of memory, but also one with great anti vibration design. There is a big difference in what the different ones will take before they skip. Plus your mounting of the unit will make a big difference to. A good cd player should be 300-500 dollars or more. My last one for my car was 900 but that was a Sony Mobile ES unit and they don't get any better. Chris F1 rocket builder ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Jan 02, 2001
Subject: Re: Heater (was firewall)
> I just added 7/16 springs to my muff's(Robbins). They fit great under > the muff's and I wrap the pipe from flange to flange, I flew this > afternoon and did notice a slight increase, but not as much as I hope. > It only took an hour and cost about 6 bucks for the springs at Home > Depot. The archives contain some discussion about the springs rubbing against the stainless steel exhaust pipe, eventually leading to holes in the exhaust. For that reason, I used S.S. pot scrubber wool. Tim ****** Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a ****** "Don't throw your vote away... Let the Supreme Court throw it away for you." ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 2001
Subject: Airframe Ground
From: czechsix(at)juno.com
Don, I agree with you that in principle a separate grounding system is superior. At the company where I work as an avionics engineer we have to pay a lot of attention to grounding because all our equipment is digital and it has to pass rigorous HIRF and lightning testing. The point I made earlier was specifically regarding the use of airframe ground in the wings, presumably for nav lights or landing lights. Back when I turned wrenches as an A&P, I worked for a flight school with a fleet of about 20 aircraft (mix of Piper, Cessna, and Beechcraft). We very rarely experienced problems with airframe grounds in the wings. Some of the aircraft were several decades old and had 15,000 hours on the airframe. I can remember once or twice having a nav light become intermittent. It was about a 1 minute fix......unscrew the ground from the airframe, rub it a couple times with scotchbrite, and it was good to go for another two or three decades. My only point is, if you are running critical equipment like fly-by-wire servos in your wing and you're planning to fly around lightning, your grounding scheme becomes very important. For landing lights and nav lights.....airframe ground is more than sufficient. Your 'critical' stuff in an RV is generally in the panel where it's easy to run everything to a common ground, so the really important equipment is taken care of anyway. For lights in the wings, you can probly stand to have one go out every ten years or so, do the one minute fix.......and save yourself the effort/weight/time/cost of installing separate ground wires. And as you said, "your choice." --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A fuselage ------------------------------- >From: "Don Winters" <dtw_rv6(at)yahoo.com> >Subject: RE: RV-List: Van's Alternator -> airframe ground > > >Aluminum Oxide is a better insulator than glass! That is why aluminum wire >is no longer used for residential wiring. If it is used at all for an >electrical connection, the connection is coated with an anti-corrosive >compound, and sealed from the elements. > >Can you use the frame as a ground? Sure. I'll bet we have plenty of planes >out there like that. What is the most reliable connection? A separate >grounding system. > >Your choice. > >Don Winters >Wings >http://www.geocities.com/dtw_rv6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 2001
From: Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Palmdale RV-4
http://dailynews.yahoo.com/h/ap/20010101/en/troy_hartman_2.html ==== Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "skybolt-aviator" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Good post-Did Imiss all the thoughtful solutions?
Date: Jan 02, 2001
----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Berryhill" <dwberryhill(at)home.com> Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 10:25 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Good post-Did Imiss all the thoughtful solutions? > The vent line runs down the gear leg and fuel dosn't run uphill. > What do aerobatic planes use to keep from losing fuel when inverted? > > Dave Berryhill > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Heater (was firewall)
Date: Jan 02, 2001
. "I have always flown in shirtsleeves without gloves in my C172 and I am trying to do the same in the RV6A." I guess I should have added that my survival gear (warm coat, boots, gloves) is in the 6A baggage compartment. I am able to take off and put on a heavy coat seated in the cockpit with the canopy down. I hope I never have to do it inverted, after a flipped-over landing. Having cut-down seats (level with horizontal member) makes it easy for me to reach things on the floor of the baggage compartment even with my relatively short arms. My most important item in the survival kit is the cell phone! Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 26 hours Hampshire, IL C38 -----Original Message----- From: Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> Date: Monday, January 01, 2001 8:43 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Heater (was firewall) > > >Listers: > >I realize I live in a warm climate but I do believe trying to fly in winter >in shirt sleeves may not be wise. Considering the consequences of a forced >landing in winter weather I have always considered it the better part of >valor to go ahead and wear boots and good jackets during winter weather. >Maybe having a heater that is not so good forces us to dress appropriately >for the weather outdoors in the season that we are flying. > >Larry Pardue >Carlsbad, NM > >RV-6 N441LP Flying >http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WFACT01(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 02, 2001
Subject: Re: Van's Alternator
BOB ALTERNATOR SPEED FORMULA: CRANK PULLEY DIA. (IN INCHES) DIVIDED BY ALTERNATOR PULLEY (IN) TIMES ENGINE RPM EQUALS ALTERNATOR RPM REGARDS, TOM Thomas M. Whelan Whelan Farms Airport Post Office Box 426 249 Hard Hill Road North Bethlehem, CT 06751 PH 203-266-5300 FAX 203-266-5140 e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com EAA Chapter 1097, President RV-8 IO-540 LYC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Reiff" <Reiff(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Cold weather starting
Date: Jan 02, 2001
For non-CPA members, we have a copy of the article on our web site. Probably the best article I've seen on the effects of cold starts. Bob Reiff Reiff Preheat Systems www.execpc.com/reiff >One thing I've heard is that if you start a cold engine and it fires then >quits, the plugs frost over, making subsequent start attempts very >difficult. The solution is to pre-heat. I've also heard that cold starting a >newly-rebuilt engine is worse than an old one near TBO (tighter clearances). >There's a great pre-heat article at >http://www.cessna.org/members/032tech.pdf . You have to be a Cessna Pilot's >Association Member to get at it though. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Reiff" <Reiff(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Heater (was firewall)
Date: Jan 02, 2001
I've also seen guys weld a whole bunch of threaded studs to the exhaust pipe to increase the surface area for better heat transfer. Bob Reiff Reiff Preheat Systems www.execpc.com/reiff >The archives contain some discussion about the springs rubbing >against the stainless steel exhaust pipe, eventually leading to holes in >the exhaust. For that reason, I used S.S. pot scrubber wool. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 2001
From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: Good post-Did Imiss all the thoughtful solutions?
Dave Berryhill wrote: > > > > > > > >The check valves we use in race cars are of two types. First there > > >are the ones which are spring > > >loaded slightly to ensure that hay close in all attitudes. Secondly > > >there are ones which have a free > > >floating ball and are therefore closed by gravity. > > What do aerobatic planes use to keep from losing fuel when inverted? > > Dave Berryhill > On RV's with belly vents, when you're inverted, the vent is above the tank... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 2001
From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: Van's Alternator -> airframe ground
Don Winters wrote: > > > Aluminum Oxide is a better insulator than glass! That is why aluminum wire > is no longer used for residential wiring. If it is used at all for an > electrical connection, the connection is coated with an anti-corrosive > compound, and sealed from the elements. > > Can you use the frame as a ground? Sure. I'll bet we have plenty of planes > out there like that. What is the most reliable connection? A separate > grounding system. > > Your choice. > > Don Winters Actually, al wire is still used regularly in houses for service input wiring (the really big stuff from the meter to the breaker box). The real problem in houses was that the soft al wire would deform with heat/pressure/vibration when used with connectors designed for copper. Loose, high resistance, high heat connections & fires resulted. Outlets/switches/etc are now available which work fine with the smaller guage al, but there's now such a large body of old wives' tales about al wire that everyone, including regulatory bodies, believe it's unsafe (except for the really big stuff where copper is so expensive; then it's ok :-)). Relevance to a/c: almost anything can be safe, or dangerous, or be reliable, or unreliable, based on how well you understand its characteristics. Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 02, 2001
Subject: Re: Battery Source
In a message dated 1/1/01 6:09:21 PM Pacific Standard Time, zilik(at)bewellnet.com writes: > Don't know nothin about the Panasonic battery but I'll sure go to bat for my > Oddessy. Twice the master has been left on and the battery drained to less > than > .5 volt. Charge it back up and it is like new. Try that with a lead acid > battery. > Sort of pricy at 150 bucks but Batteries Plus had them on sale awhile back > for > 100 bucks. Gary, I thought the Oddysey was a lead acid battery. If not, then what is it? Kevin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jones, Bryan D." <bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
Subject: anybody etching w/sodium hydroxide?
Date: Jan 02, 2001
As I recall, the PPG aluminum cleaning/conditioning product I used contained phosphoric acid. Too bad I didn't know about this cheaper source at the time! Bryan Jones -8 765BJ 60-hrs Pearland, Texas -----Original Message----- From: Dave Berryhill [mailto:dwberryhill(at)home.com] Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 8:32 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: anybody etching w/sodium hydroxide? > > Listers, > > An A/P freind of mine, who is in the process of restoring a old Cessna > 120 that had a lot of corrosion problems, is using a product from Home > Depot called PH-OSPHO-RIC Plus +. It's a phosperic acid based product > that etches the alum very nicely. Sold in gallons, very inexpensive, and > easily obtainable..... > > Fred Stucklen > RV-6A ( 1670 Hrs in 7.5+ Yrs) > N925RV Are you sure he's not using it on steel parts? Phosphoric acid solutions are usually used to remove rust and etch steel. Dave Berryhill No RV (yet!) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jones, Bryan D." <bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
Subject: Heat shield paint for cowl
Date: Jan 02, 2001
I tried something a little different trying to reduce the heat seen by the cowling. Understand, I only have a few hours of time on the fix, but it seems to be holding up so far. I cleaned the inside (lower half only) of my cowling and sprayed 3M contact cement on the area I wanted to protect. Then I unrolled some aluminum foil and "wallpapered" it onto the inside surface. make sure to put the shiny side toward the engine for maximum reflectivity. It went on pretty well... take your time and smooth it on carefully. After trimming the edges, it turned out looking pretty good. time will tell if the glue will hold up under the heat. Hopefully, it will still hold after "baking out". If not, I guess I'll be sanding it all off and painting later. But as easy as this was to install, it's worth the gamble. Bryan Jones -8 765BJ 60-hrs Pearland, Texas -----Original Message----- From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com [mailto:Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com] Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 8:36 PM Subject: RV-List: Heat shield paint for cowl Can anyone recommend a good heat shield paint for the area of the cowl that is closest to the exhaust? I would like to do this before my cowl gets coated with oil. Thanks, Jim Andrews RV-8A ( finishing up cowl install ) O-360 A1A Sensenich 85 N89JA reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Battery Source
Date: Jan 02, 2001
> Gary, I thought the Oddysey was a lead acid battery. If not, then what is it? > > Kevin Kevin, This is an exerpt from one of Bob Nuckolls emails. The Odyssey is another name for the Hawker Genesis. Ross "The Odyssey is not a dry cell, it has liquid water and sulphuric acid in it. It's also a lead-acid battery. It requires no special attention in terms of voltage regulation. see http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/rg_bat.html The majority of my builders are using a 17 a.h. recombinant gas batteries which which can be found on hte following links. These batteries can be purchased from a variety of battery specialty shops. We have some little convenience store sized Battery Patrols around Wichita that handle these batteries for $60-70 each. Hawker: Check out the first 6 batteries on this page . . . http://www.hepi.com/products/genesis/genprod.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: Winged Camlocks
Date: Jan 02, 2001
Thanks everybody, I was looking in an old ACS catalog.....Norman..... Do not archive ... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: rpflanze(at)iquest.net
Date: Jan 02, 2001
Subject: Heat shield paint for cowl
Been there, done that. I tried the aluminum foil route, but it turned out to be very fragile. I attached it using some high temp white glue from Aircraft $pruce. I ended up using the glue to attach some fiberfrax to the bottom of the cowl where the exhaust comes close to the scoop edges. The fiberfrax is scorched, but the cowl paint (outside) is fine so it looks like it is doing it's job. I know that the fiberfrax will absorb fluids so care must be taken to avoid oil and fuel spills on it. Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 Indianapolis (110 hours) > >I tried something a little different trying to reduce the heat seen by the >cowling. Understand, I only have a few hours of time on the fix, but it >seems to be holding up so far. I cleaned the inside (lower half only) of my >cowling and sprayed 3M contact cement on the area I wanted to protect. Then >I unrolled some aluminum foil and "wallpapered" it onto the inside surface. >make sure to put the shiny side toward the engine for maximum reflectivity. >It went on pretty well... take your time and smooth it on carefully. After >trimming the edges, it turned out looking pretty good. time will tell if >the glue will hold up under the heat. Hopefully, it will still hold after >"baking out". If not, I guess I'll be sanding it all off and painting >later. But as easy as this was to install, it's worth the gamble. > >Bryan Jones -8 765BJ 60-hrs >Pearland, Texas > >-----Original Message----- >From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com [mailto:Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com] >Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 8:36 PM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Heat shield paint for cowl > > >Can anyone recommend a good heat shield paint for the area of the cowl that >is closest to the exhaust? I would like to do this before my cowl gets >coated with oil. > >Thanks, > >Jim Andrews >RV-8A ( finishing up cowl install ) >O-360 A1A Sensenich 85 >N89JA reserved > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Heater (was firewall)
Date: Jan 02, 2001
> I realize I live in a warm climate but I do believe trying to fly in winter > in shirt sleeves may not be wise. Considering the consequences of a forced > landing in winter weather I have always considered it the better part of > valor to go ahead and wear boots and good jackets during winter weather. > Maybe having a heater that is not so good forces us to dress appropriately > for the weather outdoors in the season that we are flying. Hey, Larry: For a deep south kind of guy you know winter weather really well. However, I would plan on a good heater - and rely on some discipline to fly with a cockpit that is slightly cool. I'm from Northern Ontario. I think that you should drive and fly with boots designed for winter as well as a winter coat and with winter gloves nearby. A heavier coat can be put in the baggage area for use after landing. If you step off the plane (into very few inches of snow) with street shoes you will find that your situation will deteriorate very quickly. Any northern highway cop can tell you a number of tragic stories about this - on major, well-travelled highways. I worked in balmy St. Louis for awhile. A person used to have his wife drive him to work - on the busy outer belt. She wore pyjamas and slippers. Once, in a storm the oil light came on. She drove home to avoid the cold and embarrassment. Too bad - it WAS a nice car. Remember - not all flights terminate according to plan. Ernest Kells RV-9A - Building Wings, Planning: O-235 Wood Prop Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Heater (was firewall)
Date: Jan 02, 2001
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Heater (was firewall) Thread-Index: AcB0g8iT/i3AxJ1pRX+VcxFw1vL0xgAUk+UA
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
Originally, I had one Robbins heat muff in my bird. It put out very little heat on its own. Around 30 degrees OAT I could see my breath while flying and had to wear a jacket and gloves. The inlet to the heat muff is located low on the passenger side back baffle, on the angled portion. The cylinder head helps preheat the air a little, but not much. The floor and forward fuse behind the panel is completely insulated. Also have the aileron pushrod boots installed which were quite effective in cutting down the draft that was coming up through the seat belt anchors. It didn't take much flying to figure out that air coming up through there was directed at the wrong area of my anatomy. Tried the pot scrubbers--did nothing for me except slow the air down. No discernable increase in heat output. Tried springs and those didn't work at all either. I added a second heat muff in series with the first and it was a big improvement. I only have little over an hour on the new setup, but the day I tested on it was about 20 degrees outside and I was comfortable with the heat on full-blast. Still, too much is never enough, so the system can use some improvement. A local RV-4 driver has the 4-pipe Vetterman exhaust, and his heat muff wraps around two of the pipes. He never opens it fully. My opinion is the problem revolves around the volume inside the muff not being large enough to be effective given the amount of flow required to effectively heat the cockpit (cfm's). If you slow down the flow, the air temperature of the incoming air will rise but the heat system won't keep up with the amount of heat/air escaping the cockpit. If the muffs were larger in diameter I think they would be much more effective. I live near Indianapolis and in our midwestern climate two heat muffs are a must. If I get some more time to investigate I'm thinking about building a muff that wraps around both of the crossover pipes in front underneath the front cylinders. Bob Japundza RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 64 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 2001
From: barry <bpote(at)erols.com>
Subject: torque ..inch pounds
I, once again, am a little confused. Some of the screws and bolts I am installing call for 5-10 INCH pounds of torque. My Snap-On man says no one uses torque wrenches that read that low. He can problably find them at around $275. What are people doing for these low settings? Barry Pote RV9a WINGS ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 2001
From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: ejection seat
Norman Hunger wrote: > > > > Well.....maybe I rethink the ejection seat in my RV after reading this > > story > > http://www.gallagher.com/ejection_seat/ > > Happy NewYear folks, may all your future landings be happy landings > > I thought that there was a company in the States making or marketing a > lightweight ejection seat designed for the high end acro crowd for $38,000 > USD. Haven't seen the ad in awhile though. Do not > archive.......Norman........ > A friend who's an aero engineer & flys a Yak tells me that the Russians are marketing one for around $10k. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 02, 2001
Subject: Re: torque ..inch pounds
inch pounds is correct. i bought a $375.00 torque wrench dial type, i will let you borrow it if you send it right back. i'll be needed it again soon. scott reviere tampa rv6a finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: Palmdale RV-4
Date: Jan 02, 2001
The engine failed but he was able to taxi 3 miles to the airport? Hmmm.... Re-enacts stunts he has seen on music videos? Hmmm..... -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 -----Original Message----- From: Larry Bowen [mailto:lcbowen(at)yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 5:08 AM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Palmdale RV-4 http://dailynews.yahoo.com/h/ap/20010101/en/troy_hartman_2.html ==== Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RGray67968(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 02, 2001
Subject: Re: Heater (was firewall)
Listers, Thanks for all the replies to my firewall questions. I have since mounted the single muff on the right side. It wraps the Vetterman exhaust just above the "ball joint" (per the plans but this bothers me as another part of the plans said that the joint is "made to leak a bit"...........I may rethink this), which means it will capture the heat from #1 & #3 cyls. The muff is small and it doesn't "look like" I'm going to get the heat I want (again, read "I like it Hot"). I figure I'll add another muff on the left side and call it a winner. It really helps to get "first hand" experience. Thanks again. Rick Gray RV6QB (Ohio) Still snowed in at the Buffalo Farm but the buffalo couldn't care less! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 2001
From: barry <bpote(at)erols.com>
Subject: Re: torque ..inch pounds
Thank you very much for the very generous offer, but I try not to borrow tools. "I believe that, Neither a borrower nor lender be, for loan oft loses both itself and friend." from Hamlet Someone said they bought one at Sears for $75. Thanks again for the generous offer. Barry ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > > inch pounds is correct. i bought a $375.00 torque wrench dial type, i will > let you borrow it if you send it right back. i'll be needed it again soon. > scott reviere > tampa rv6a finishing > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Berryhill" <dwberryhill(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Palmdale RV-4
Date: Jan 02, 2001
> Re-enacts stunts he has seen on music videos? Hmmm..... > Hey, it's a living! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Berryhill" <dwberryhill(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: torque ..inch pounds
Date: Jan 02, 2001
> > Someone said they bought one at Sears for $75. > I looked around for a fairly inexpensive in-lb torque wrench for rifle actions and found a micrometer-style wrench at my local Pep Boys auto parts store for less than that. Of course it's an import and probably isn't "aircraft" quality. Dave Berryhill No RV (yet!) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: Wing Cam-Locks
Date: Jan 02, 2001
> Norman-- > > Please re-think using those things. All the ones I've seen look > ugly/horrible/yucky/out-of-place on an otherwise well-built aircraft. > I hear what you're saying and I agree. My oil door will have a stainless steel Hartwell latch like Laird's. I am currently building a long skinny tray for 4 fuse blocks. I will mount this tray with hinge all the way along it's forward edge. The rear edge will be five inches back from the lower bottom edge of the instrument panel. I want to secure this edge with a few of the winged Camlocks. I will not be able to see them but they are very easy to operate by feel. I can easily reach them by just leaning forward. The whole tray would then be some what accessible in flight or just very easily when on the ground. "It's a plan, maybe not a great plan, but it is a plan." So much fun, so little time. Norman Hunger RV6A Delta BC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com>
Subject: rv roll movie
Date: Jan 02, 2001
Somewhere on the net I came across aan avi file of a roll in an RV. Now I can't remember where it was. Can anybody point me in the right direction? Greg Tanner RV-9A Empennage SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Heat shield paint for cowl
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
Date: Jan 02, 2001
01/02/2001 05:48:54 PM Many thanks to all that replied to this query. I have decided to go the 1/16 inch Fiberfrax route bonded to the cowl with a layer of West Systems epoxy resin and use high temp automotive paint to seal it all. This way the Fiberfrax will protect the exterior paint while being sealed against oil by the automotive paint. Best of both worlds with a little insurance thrown in for good measure. Thanks, - Jim Andrews RV-8A ( cowling ) O-360 A1A Sensenich 85 N89JA reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 2001
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: RE: [rv8list] Canopy frame fitting trouble
> >I haven't ordered my finish kit yet, I need to do it soon, and was wondering >if I should have my canopy frame in hand when I go to fit the roll bar? I >heard it may have to be bent in order for it to fit correctly, and I want it >to match the canopy frame as closely as possibly right? > >Also, I made great progress on my -8A over the holiday break, lots of new >stuff can be seen on my website: http://vondane.com/rv8a/ > >Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO Well, the roll bar has to be bent to fit the width of the fuselage. I got lucky and mine was only 1/16" narrow, which took just about zero force to hold in place, so I didn't have to bend it at all. The canopy frame is bent to fit the fuselage width too. I had to squeeze mine about 1/8 with a strap clamp. It was a bit stressful when I was doing it, as I had to squeeze it in over 3.5" to get it to take a 1/8 set once it sprung back. Tonight's task is to spread it out a bit near the back of the cockpit, and to bend the aft bow down. Have fun, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy) Ottawa, Canada http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Berryhill" <dwberryhill(at)home.com>
Subject: Why No Archive?
Date: Jan 02, 2001
Being a newbie here, I'm curious why everyone tags their messages with "No Archive." If no one archives their messages, doesn't that mean that people have to ask the same questions over and over again, instead of being able to find the info in the archives? Dave Berryhill No RV (yet!) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com>
Subject: Heat shield paint for cowl
Date: Jan 02, 2001
Another cleaner option is to have the tubes ceramic coated. wilson, rv4 -----Original Message----- From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com [mailto:Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com] Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 3:48 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Heat shield paint for cowl Many thanks to all that replied to this query. I have decided to go the 1/16 inch Fiberfrax route bonded to the cowl with a layer of West Systems epoxy resin and use high temp automotive paint to seal it all. This way the Fiberfrax will protect the exterior paint while being sealed against oil by the automotive paint. Best of both worlds with a little insurance thrown in for good measure. Thanks, - Jim Andrews RV-8A ( cowling ) O-360 A1A Sensenich 85 N89JA reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "elizabeth lincoln" <curby1(at)shianet.org>
Subject: Re: Heater (was firewall)
Date: Jan 02, 2001
Dennis you might be surprised at what springs in the heat muff will do. I completely rapped the area of exhaust pipe inside the heat muff and couldn't believe the difference Andy ----- Original Message ----- From: Dennis Persyk <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 8:08 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Heater (was firewall) > > I have two Robins Wings heat muffs in series in my 6A. With the sun shining > brightly and 10 F OAT it is very warm in the cockpit: 65 F monitored near > the canopy at F621A. I have to turn down the heat. > > Under a broken sky at 5 F OAT three hours before sunset, it was 55 F near > the canopy; 15 minutes before sunset it dropped to 45 F in the cockpit near > the canopy. There is a Radio Shack indoor/outdoor thermometer Velcro'ed to > the F621A with the outdoor probe near the wing tip in undisturbed air. I've > not yet flown at night, but I'm sure it would not be comfortable for me for > long with 5-10 F OAT. The greenhouse effect from the canopy in bright > sunlight is impressive. I have always flown in shirtsleeves without gloves > in my C172 and I am trying to do the same in the RV6A. > > My heater mixer valve (VENT DL-01) is on the right lower firewall. It has a > PVC 90 deg elbow with a 1-inch hole bored in it to allow some air to the > passenger side. The rest of the air goes through a two-inch scat and is > dumped behind the pilot's rudder pedals. My feet are always warm. > > I have a few leaks from around the eyeball vents (Van's black ones). The > ram air pressure from the NACA vents is astounding! Little 0.020 wide slots > leak a lot of air! I seem to have no canopy leaks whatever (tip up) and I > don't think I have any leaks from the wing attach area. I love winter flying > so I installed the two muffs and I would like even more heat, but so far > what I have obtained is marginally adequate. > > I don't understand the physics of the springs (because the area of the > spring represents less than 1% of the heat muff or pipe area) so I haven't > tried them. On our last flight I experimented with reducing the air flow > with the internal damper (I have the mixer/flow restrictor gadget) to see if > a reduced flow volume of hotter air was better -- I didn't notice a big > difference but I need to take more data. > > Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 26 hours > Hampshire, IL C38 > > -----Original Message----- > From: Don Eaves <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Monday, January 01, 2001 6:15 PM > Subject: RE: RV-List: Firewall > > > > > > > >"Is a single heat muff adequate (read "I like it hot")" > > > >NO! With 2 muffs & 1/2 springs added inside for heat risers - It was still > >cold, Cold Cold! OAT 20F I'm going to try routing the air from one muff > >into the other then into the aircraft. I like it HOT also... If that don't > >work I will slow down the air flow into the muffs... > > > >"Where is the best place to penetrate the firewall, left/right/high/low" > > > >I ran mine through the right side in front of the passengers feet - I used > >the other valve - "Stainless" (On/Off - Hot/Cold) and placed it on the > right > >because of summer operations when I can turn it full cold because my #1 > >passenger "My Wife" likes it Cold Cold Cold In the Summer. > > > >Anyway I will keep the list posted on my efforts to heat up my RV this > >winter... > > > >From several RVs here - They suffer from cold feet in the winter as well - > >So I hope to solve this for those who desire to fly when it is cold & Sever > >Clear... > > > >Don > >RV6 Flying > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: Re: Heater (was firewall)
Date: Jan 02, 2001
> My most important item in the survival kit is the cell phone! > Many barren areas have no cell coverage, so be aware. Your handheld com is probably better all around for emergencies, as some airliner is likely to hear you. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN 6A ------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 2001
From: barry <bpote(at)erols.com>
Subject: Re: torque ..inch pounds
Thanks for the input. Barry Dave Berryhill wrote: > > > > > > Someone said they bought one at Sears for $75. > > > > I looked around for a fairly inexpensive in-lb torque wrench for rifle > actions and found a micrometer-style wrench at my local Pep Boys auto parts > store for less than that. Of course it's an import and probably isn't > "aircraft" quality. > > Dave Berryhill > No RV (yet!) > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Donald R. Eaves" <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com>
Subject: Heater (was firewall)
Date: Jan 02, 2001
I have springs in the 2 muffs - Today I ran the 2 heat muffs into each other and did a 30 min check flight - OAT about 29F and I got an increase in heat I need to do some stream lining of the 2 inch scat hose to see if I can get some more volume, lost when I had both muffs with separate air inlets routed into the heat valve. Still Searching for Hotter Air Don Eaves RV6 Flying Dennis you might be surprised at what springs in the heat muff will do. I completely rapped the area of exhaust pipe inside the heat muff and couldn't believe the difference Andy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Donald R. Eaves" <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com>
Subject: Heater (was firewall)
Date: Jan 02, 2001
Bob - What Was The Results? Don Eaves -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bob Reiff Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 10:09 AM Subject: RV-List: Heater (was firewall) I've also seen guys weld a whole bunch of threaded studs to the exhaust pipe to increase the surface area for better heat transfer. Bob Reiff Reiff Preheat Systems www.execpc.com/reiff >The archives contain some discussion about the springs rubbing >against the stainless steel exhaust pipe, eventually leading to holes in >the exhaust. For that reason, I used S.S. pot scrubber wool. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 2001
From: Richard Riley <richard(at)riley.net>
Subject: Re: Heater (was firewall)
Check out the new 406 MhZ ELT's. I adapted mine from a boating unit, but the aviation units are getting cheaper. Even without the GPS interface working, it's MUCH more accurate than the old ones. http://www.artex.net/ www.sarsat.noaa.gov > >> My most important item in the survival kit is the cell phone! >> > > >Many barren areas have no cell coverage, so be aware. Your handheld com is >probably better all around for emergencies, as some airliner is likely to >hear you. > >Alex Peterson >Maple Grove, MN >6A > > >------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------ > > Richard Riley Renaissance Composites 3025 Airport Ave Santa Monica, CA 90405 310.391.1943 www.berkut.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Baker" <bakerje(at)kfalls.net>
Subject: Aircraft Fire
Date: Jan 02, 2001
Sunday afternoon was warm (47) and sunny here in southern Oregon. A friend of mine owns a Starduster II with a fuel injected engine. After trying to start it without success he waited a few minutes and tried again, over priming and a back fire started a fire that resulted in all of the lower fuselage burned along with the left lower wing. By the time the airport Fire trucks arrived My friends had used up all of his fire extinguisher and was spraying water trying to knock down the flames. As the first water hit his plane from the fire truck his left tire blew from being on fire. He suffer no injuries that I know of so he can repair the aircraft, unfortunately he had no insurance on his Airplane. Just thought I would pass this on "for what it is worth". Hope this might save someone else from the same thing. Jim Baker N513J RV-4 *&#$& %@# fiberglass ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 02, 2001
Subject: rv-4 Cowl question.
I have my top cowl drilled in place and am now starting with the lower cowl and cheek extensions. Is there a set vertical demension for the seam between the upper and lower cowls? I have the airframe leveled and assume the seam is to be parallel with the top longerons, but where? The plans also say to level the cheek extensions, but how do you draw the center line through them? am I missing a drawing somewhere (again). Any words of wisdom here would be appreciated. FWIW, If I could start over I would have paid the extra for the epoxy cowl -- I stored my polyester cowl for about 8 months and had a lot of warpage. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: ELT [was Heater (was firewall)]
Date: Jan 02, 2001
Cool. So what kind of "adaptations" did you have to make? Is Mr FAA inspector man going to like it? Larry Bowen RV-8 fuse Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com Web: http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Riley > Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 9:52 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Heater (was firewall) > > > Check out the new 406 MhZ ELT's. I adapted mine from a boating unit, but > the aviation units are getting cheaper. Even without the GPS interface > working, it's MUCH more accurate than the old ones. > > http://www.artex.net/ > www.sarsat.noaa.gov > [snip] ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 2001
From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Subject: Re: rv roll movie
Here's another one: http://www.rotaryaviation.com Finn Greg Tanner wrote: > > Somewhere on the net I came across aan avi file of a roll in an RV. Now I > can't remember where it was. Can anybody point me in the right direction? Shop Safely Online Without a Credit Card http://www.rocketcash.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: ELT [was Heater (was firewall)]
Date: Jan 02, 2001
I'm not to this point yet, does everyone but me know what frequency is Required for aviation use, I was under the impression what the 406 MhZ was not approved based upon postings in the past. Marty in Brentwood TN ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 10:17 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: ELT [was Heater (was firewall)] > > Cool. So what kind of "adaptations" did you have to make? Is Mr FAA > inspector man going to like it? > > Larry Bowen > RV-8 fuse > Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com > Web: http://BowenAero.com > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Riley > > Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 9:52 PM > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Heater (was firewall) > > > > > > > > Check out the new 406 MhZ ELT's. I adapted mine from a boating unit, but > > the aviation units are getting cheaper. Even without the GPS interface > > working, it's MUCH more accurate than the old ones. > > > > http://www.artex.net/ > > www.sarsat.noaa.gov > > [snip] > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2001
From: David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Battery Source
Listers: I have received my battery from Westco batteries. GR type battery, small size, 22 AH, 350 CC. go to https://www.westcobattery.com/harleydavidson.htm I paid under $75.00. The company paid shipping!!!!! It is 1/3 the cost than you need to? David Aronson RV4 N504RV Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > > In a message dated 1/1/01 6:09:21 PM Pacific Standard Time, > zilik(at)bewellnet.com writes: > > > Don't know nothin about the Panasonic battery but I'll sure go to bat for my > > Oddessy. Twice the master has been left on and the battery drained to less > > than > > .5 volt. Charge it back up and it is like new. Try that with a lead acid > > battery. > > Sort of pricy at 150 bucks but Batteries Plus had them on sale awhile back > > for > > 100 bucks. > > Gary, I thought the Oddysey was a lead acid battery. If not, then what is it? > > Kevin > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 2001
From: Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: Heater (was firewall)
Bob, I have the Robbins muff with the crossover exhaust system too. My air inlet is on the front ramp on the left side.The airbox is located high on the passenger side of the firewall. I get LOTS of heat at 30 degrees OAT. I don't know where you located your muff but if it's on the crossover pipe, you're only getting heat from ONE cylinder. I mounted mine on the left side, downstream from #4 which gives me heat from TWO cylinders. Might make a big difference. No pot scrubbers... Dave Bob Japundza wrote: > > Originally, I had one Robbins heat muff in my bird. It put out very > little heat on its own. Around 30 degrees OAT I could see my breath > while flying and had to wear a jacket and gloves. The inlet to the heat > muff is located low on the passenger side back baffle, on the angled > portion. The cylinder head helps preheat the air a little, but not > much. The floor and forward fuse behind the panel is completely > insulated. Also have the aileron pushrod boots installed which were > quite effective in cutting down the draft that was coming up through the > seat belt anchors. It didn't take much flying to figure out that air > coming up through there was directed at the wrong area of my anatomy. > > Tried the pot scrubbers--did nothing for me except slow the air down. > No discernable increase in heat output. Tried springs and those didn't > work at all either. > > I added a second heat muff in series with the first and it was a big > improvement. I only have little over an hour on the new setup, but the > day I tested on it was about 20 degrees outside and I was comfortable > with the heat on full-blast. Still, too much is never enough, so the > system can use some improvement. > > A local RV-4 driver has the 4-pipe Vetterman exhaust, and his heat muff > wraps around two of the pipes. He never opens it fully. My opinion is > the problem revolves around the volume inside the muff not being large > enough to be effective given the amount of flow required to effectively > heat the cockpit (cfm's). If you slow down the flow, the air > temperature of the incoming air will rise but the heat system won't keep > up with the amount of heat/air escaping the cockpit. If the muffs were > larger in diameter I think they would be much more effective. I live > near Indianapolis and in our midwestern climate two heat muffs are a > must. If I get some more time to investigate I'm thinking about > building a muff that wraps around both of the crossover pipes in front > underneath the front cylinders. > > Bob Japundza > RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 64 hours > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net>
Subject: Re: rv-4 Cowl question.
Date: Jan 02, 2001
Hello, The cowling parting line should be in the area of 17 / 3/4" from the bottom of the flat portion of the firewall flange. I think I remember finding this measurement in the manual. I just found it in the book, look in section 12 - 4 drawing SK-97 Jim in kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: <MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 8:05 PM Subject: RV-List: rv-4 Cowl question. > > I have my top cowl drilled in place and am now starting with the lower cowl > and cheek extensions. Is there a set vertical demension for the seam between > the upper and lower cowls? I have the airframe leveled and assume the seam > is to be parallel with the top longerons, but where? The plans also say to > level the cheek extensions, but how do you draw the center line through them? > am I missing a drawing somewhere (again). Any words of wisdom here would be > appreciated. FWIW, If I could start over I would have paid the extra for > the epoxy cowl -- I stored my polyester cowl for about 8 months and had a lot > of warpage. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net>
Subject: Re: rv-4 Cowl question.
Date: Jan 02, 2001
Hello again, I failed to read your subject line correctly the info regarding the cowling parting line in my last post is for the RV6 series. My best guess is that the info you seek will be located in the 4 manual in a similar area. sorry about the slip, jim in kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: <MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 8:05 PM Subject: RV-List: rv-4 Cowl question. > > I have my top cowl drilled in place and am now starting with the lower cowl > and cheek extensions. Is there a set vertical demension for the seam between > the upper and lower cowls? I have the airframe leveled and assume the seam > is to be parallel with the top longerons, but where? The plans also say to > level the cheek extensions, but how do you draw the center line through them? > am I missing a drawing somewhere (again). Any words of wisdom here would be > appreciated. FWIW, If I could start over I would have paid the extra for > the epoxy cowl -- I stored my polyester cowl for about 8 months and had a lot > of warpage. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ENewton57(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 03, 2001
Subject: New Site Address
Hi all, To anyone that follows my website progress, I have changed servers and therefore have a new domain name. Please update your favorite places accordingly. The new site is located at: http://www.ericsrv6a.com Thanks, Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage) http://ericsrv6a.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 03, 2001
Subject: Re: rv-4 Cowl question.
Thanks, will re-check my -4 manual, wouldn't be the second time I missed something! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 03, 2001
Subject: Heat shield paint for cow
From: czechsix(at)juno.com
I was at the store this evening and saw some Rustoleum paint in a rattle can for a few bucks that is "High Temp" stuff, supposed to be good to 1000 F. They advertise it for use on things like BBQ grills. They had it in white and some sort of silver/metallic color as well. For a few dollars it would be worth a try. --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A fuselage -----Original Message----- From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com [mailto:Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com] Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 8:36 PM Subject: RV-List: Heat shield paint for cowl Can anyone recommend a good heat shield paint for the area of the cowl that is closest to the exhaust? I would like to do this before my cowl gets coated with oil. Thanks, Jim Andrews RV-8A ( finishing up cowl install ) O-360 A1A Sensenich 85 N89JA reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Heat shield paint for cowl
Date: - - - , 20-
Listers, I've been reading this thread for a while and with special interest. When I did the annual inspection on my RV-6A, I found that the left cowl had some delimination just under the area of the ball joint in the Vetterman exhaust pipe. My cowl has automotive high temp paint on it to protect it from oil penetration. The paint did its job of protecting from penetration; but, it was obviously not designed to protect from heat. The paint was perfect; but, the glass and honeycomb material were scorched underneath. Fortunately, I was able to repair the delamination without anything showing on the outside of the cowl. I've temporarily used some aluminum tape to reflect some of the heat; but, I really like the Fiberfrax idea. I'll be ordering some, shortly. Thanks to Jerry about the danger of the fibers, too. I'll treat it like it were asbestos. In the beginning, I was really worried about how close the pipes come to the cowl at the scoop edge. The damage I had was forward of that starting at a point about 12" from the firewall and went forward from there for about 8 inches. I have a muff on the right side and didn't see any delamination. I didn't sand off the paint to look for scorching. I'll do that when I apply the Fiberfrax. This one I'll archive for others behind us. I think it's pretty important stuff. Jim Sears in KY RV-6A N198JS (80.1 on the tach. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TMB1564(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 03, 2001
Subject: Fwd: rv4 cowl
From: TMB1564(at)aol.com Full-name: TMB1564 Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 06:41:34 EST Subject: rv4 cowl Hi! This may be the solution to your problem, it is worth a look. There is an excellent article in The RVator, December 95 "Builders Tips" -- How to install a cowl on an RV4 and RV3. If you don't have access to this issue, please give me your fax number or your snail mail address and I will send you a copy of the article. Tom Benton (RV3-B) Port St. Lucie, FL 561/466-3536 Hi! This may be the solution to your problem, it is worth a look. There is an excellent article in The RVator, December 95 "Builders Tips" -- How to install a cowl on an RV4 and RV3. If you don't have access to this issue, please give me your fax number or your snail mail address and I will send you a copy of the article. Tom Benton (RV3-B) Port St. Lucie, FL 561/466-3536 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Reeves, Doug" <Douglas.Reeves(at)archongroup.com>
Subject: RV Insurance FAQ now online
Date: Jan 03, 2001
Hi listers, J.T. Helms of NationAir (the Vanguard program) was nice enough to type out a 'Frequently Asked Questions' document containing all of the usual questions people want answered. You can see a link to this FAQ in the top right corner of the Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing web site. He will also answer any questions pertaining to RV insurance posted on the 'Ask J.T.' message board (link next to FAQ). Regards, Doug Reeves Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing www.vansaircraft.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com>
Subject: Aileron Boot Pattern now on line...
Date: Jan 03, 2001
Listers, I've posted a copy of my Aileron Push Rod Boot Pattern at the link listed below. For those of you that still want to send me SASE's. I'll still respond, but you now can print out your own copy...... If others with web pages want to copy this file onto their web site, please feel free to do so...... http://www.egroups.com/files/RV-6and6A/N925RV/Boot.tif I'll add to the files in this folder as time permits. I have a print of a short push/pull cable for those wanting to mount their elevator trim servo on the aft empennage deck. I also plan on taking photos of that servo's mounting bracket. As I develop electrical schematics for the next RV-6(A) I'll also post them..... Fred Stucklen N925RV (1675 hrs/7.5 Yrs) E. Windsor, CT 06088 WK Email: stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com Hm/Travel Email: wstucklen1(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Heater
Date: Jan 03, 2001
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Heater (was firewall) Thread-Index: AcB1S+M3ez6dIrk0S6Ked3w73BpjmwASAz/w
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
Dave, both of my heat muffs are on the exhaust pipes as yours is down by the carb. My Vetterman cabin heat mixer is also located high on the passenger side. The only difference I can see is your inlet being on the front ramp. Hmmm.....doesn't make sense. Bob Japundza RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 64 hours > -----Original Message----- > From: Dave Bristol [mailto:bj034(at)lafn.org] > Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 12:20 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Heater (was firewall) > > > > Bob, > I have the Robbins muff with the crossover exhaust system > too. My air inlet > is on the front ramp on the left side.The airbox is located > high on the > passenger side of the firewall. I get LOTS of heat at 30 > degrees OAT. I > don't know where you located your muff but if it's on the > crossover pipe, > you're only getting heat from ONE cylinder. I mounted mine on > the left side, > downstream from #4 which gives me heat from TWO cylinders. > Might make a big > difference. No pot scrubbers... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ENewton57(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 03, 2001
Subject: Seat Adjustment
For those already flying (or at least further along than me). I have just finished my seats and installed the seat adjustment hinges as per the plans. Upon completion and installation of the seats, my wife and I sat in the plane for the first time (using a little foam to simulate the seat upholstry). My wife has short legs so I adjusted her seat on the most forward hinge and mine was adjusted on the most aft (I'm 6'0") My question is this: Is there really enough room between the control stick and your uhm...(well lets say private parts????) to still fly the plane when the seat is in the most forward adjustment? I don't have the seat upholstry yet and the sticks are not installed yet, so I thought I would ask some of you. Thanks, Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage) http://www.ericsrv6a.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 03, 2001
Subject: Re: mike seager / sun-n-fun
dear listers, i just received an e-mail from mike seager ( van's transition instructor ) . he informed me that he will be conducting transition trainning 5 days prior to this years sun - n - fun. acutally, he will train for 3 days, test fly my rv6a on one day, and go deep sea fishing on one day. i coordinated his schedule 2 years ago and it went pretty smoothly. i am now looking for pilots that are current, and close to finishing there rv, and would liked to be transitioned into the rv from mike the week prior to sun-n-fun. for all those interested please contact me off list to get details, & i can start planning his schedule. thanks scott reviere tampa rv6a finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Reiff" <Reiff(at)execpc.com>
Subject: RV8 question
Date: Jan 03, 2001
A question - I notice some photos of the 8 have a carb air inlet on the lower front cowling like the other RV's, but the photos on Van's web site don't show that. The web site shows a smooth lower front cowling. Has the cowling been changed to delete the air intake and if so, where is the carb air inlet now located? Inside the cowling? Bob Reiff Reiff Preheat Systems www.execpc.com/reiff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com>
Subject: Fwd: rv4 cowl
Date: Jan 03, 2001
I would really like to have a copy. My fax # is (505) 632-3911 please send to Larry Hawkins as fax is in office building. Larry Hawkins, RV-4, Farmington, NM. attaching empanage -----Original Message----- From: TMB1564(at)AOL.COM [mailto:TMB1564(at)AOL.COM] Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 4:47 AM Subject: RV-List: Fwd: rv4 cowl From: TMB1564(at)aol.com Full-name: TMB1564 Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 06:41:34 EST Subject: rv4 cowl Hi! This may be the solution to your problem, it is worth a look. There is an excellent article in The RVator, December 95 "Builders Tips" -- How to install a cowl on an RV4 and RV3. If you don't have access to this issue, please give me your fax number or your snail mail address and I will send you a copy of the article. Tom Benton (RV3-B) Port St. Lucie, FL 561/466-3536 Hi! This may be the solution to your problem, it is worth a look. There is an excellent article in The RVator, December 95 "Builders Tips" -- How to install a cowl on an RV4 and RV3. If you don't have access to this issue, please give me your fax number or your snail mail address and I will send you a copy of the article. Tom Benton (RV3-B) Port St. Lucie, FL 561/466-3536 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <Scott.Wilder(at)sf.frb.org>
Subject: rookie question
Date: Jan 03, 2001
Do I need to prime rivets after setting them, permissible to touch up w/brush? i.e. spar and frames before skinning ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV8 question
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
Date: Jan 03, 2001
01/03/2001 10:14:14 AM >A question - I notice some photos of the 8 have a carb air inlet on the >lower front cowling like the other RV's, but the photos on Van's web site >don't show that. The web site shows a smooth lower front cowling. Has the >cowling been changed to delete the air intake and if so, where is the carb >air inlet now located? Inside the cowling? Bob, Different engines, different cowling mods. My O-360 has the scoop to accommodate the FAB air box. I'm doing the standard install for a stock Van's engine configuration. - Jim Andrews RV-8A ( cowling ) O-360 A1A Sensenich 85 N89JA reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net>
Subject: Re: Heater / Survival
Date: Jan 03, 2001
I think this is really important. There has been a lot of discussion on the list about crash axes, on-board fire suppression, racing harnesses and the like, but happens when/if you *survive* the forced landing? It would certainly be ironic (and painful) to pull off a perfect forced landing only to die of exposure. It can be really easy to fly along at a big altitude with oxygen and good cabin heat, marveling at your blistering cruise speed and miserly fuel flow, only to forget how vulverable you still are to those big pointy mountains below. I don't want to have to wear a heavy coat and boots on every flight, but I sure would want them in the event of an emergency. Standard fare in our RV (winter AND summer) are two sets of: very warm snowmobile suits, pair of sweats, goggles, knit hat, and Gore-Tex ski gloves. Also, one down sleeping bag that's just big enough for two. It does take up a little room, but it isn't very heavy. I feel this is a minimum exposure kit that is usually augmented by whatever clothes we bring for wherever we happen to be going. The next time you are doing you "what-if" scenario (remember your instructor always asking you "What if you had an engine failure right here, where would you go? What about now? Now?) add to it, what would you do after a successful (or only semi-successful) landing? Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours 160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78 ebundy(at)micron.net > << I realize I live in a warm climate but I do believe trying to fly in winter > in shirt sleeves may not be wise. Considering the consequences of a forced > landing in winter weather I have always considered it the better part of > valor to go ahead and wear boots and good jackets during winter weather. > Maybe having a heater that is not so good forces us to dress appropriately > for the weather outdoors in the season that we are flying. >> > > I was considering this very notion yesterday as I was returning to Livermore > from Las Vegas over the towering Sierra at 14,500 ft. For about 20 minutes > there's just no place to go in case of an emergency. > > We have good heaters vents (2) and I am usually just wearing my beat up old > A2 or Van's flight jacket with no consideration that we might go down. You > make an excellent point, but any landing on that granite would probably kill > me anyway ; ). ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 03, 2001
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: RV8 question
Bob Reiff wrote: > > A question - I notice some photos of the 8 have a carb air inlet on the > lower front cowling like the other RV's, but the photos on Van's web site > don't show that. The web site shows a smooth lower front cowling. Has the > cowling been changed to delete the air intake and if so, where is the carb > air inlet now located? Inside the cowling? > > Bob Reiff > Reiff Preheat Systems > www.execpc.com/reiff Bob, The smooth lower cowling is for the fuel-injected engines. No carb, no carb air inlet on the cowling. -- Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 #81125 (N118KB) fabricating panel www.egroups.com/files/bostonrvbuilders ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 03, 2001
From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Subject: Re: torque ..inch pounds
Both Harbor Freight Tools (http://www.harborfreight.com) and JC Whitney carries 20 - 250 in-pounds for about $20. Finn barry wrote: > > I, once again, am a little confused. > Some of the screws and bolts I am installing call for 5-10 INCH pounds > of torque. > > My Snap-On man says no one uses torque wrenches that read that low. > He can problably find them at around $275. > > What are people doing for these low settings? > > Barry Pote RV9a WINGS > Shop Safely Online Without a Credit Card http://www.rocketcash.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net>
Subject: Re: Aileron Boot Pattern now on line...
Date: Jan 03, 2001
Fred, thanks for posting the detailed drawing of your aileron Boot. I saw something similar on Sam Buchanan's site a while back and was planning on installing boots on my project. The *.tif file that you referenced is huge at over 700K so I downsized it to a more manageable 75K JPG and put it on my "Tips, Tricks and Ideas" page. The link for that page is here: http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/ For those interested, Dennis Persyk designed a nice mounting bracket that relocates the elevator trim servo to the rear of the fuselage. Those pictures can be seen on my ideas page as well. Follow the links in the "recently updated" section. Mike Nellis ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 9:37 AM Subject: RV-List: Aileron Boot Pattern now on line... > > Listers, > > I've posted a copy of my Aileron Push Rod Boot Pattern at the link listed > below. For those of you that still want to send me SASE's. I'll still > respond, but you now can print out your own copy...... If others with web > pages want to copy this file onto their web site, please feel free to do > so...... > > http://www.egroups.com/files/RV-6and6A/N925RV/Boot.tif > > I'll add to the files in this folder as time permits. I have a print of a > short push/pull cable for those wanting to mount their elevator trim servo > on the aft empennage deck. I also plan on taking photos of that servo's > mounting bracket. > > As I develop electrical schematics for the next RV-6(A) I'll also post > them..... > > Fred Stucklen > N925RV (1675 hrs/7.5 Yrs) > E. Windsor, CT 06088 > WK Email: stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com > Hm/Travel Email: wstucklen1(at)juno.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Seat Adjustment
Date: Jan 03, 2001
Hello Eric, No. Not in mine with my Orndorff seats and my body. The front hinge is worthless. I keep mine in the middle position because of my short legs & my wife likes the seat all the way back. Rick Caldwell -6 182 hrs Melbourne, FL >From: ENewton57(at)AOL.COM >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Seat Adjustment >Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 10:02:31 EST > > >For those already flying (or at least further along than me). I have just >finished my seats and installed the seat adjustment hinges as per the >plans. >Upon completion and installation of the seats, my wife and I sat in the >plane >for the first time (using a little foam to simulate the seat upholstry). >My wife has short legs so I adjusted her seat on the most forward hinge and >mine was adjusted on the most aft (I'm 6'0") My question is this: Is >there >really enough room between the control stick and your uhm...(well lets say >private parts????) to still fly the plane when the seat is in the most >forward adjustment? > >I don't have the seat upholstry yet and the sticks are not installed yet, >so >I thought I would ask some of you. > >Thanks, > >Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi >RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage) >http://www.ericsrv6a.com > > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Battery
Date: Jan 03, 2001
Dear Listers, Kevin Shannon recently posted good results with a Powersonic PS-12180 from batteries.com. I visited the web site and they have 2 versions. One model has "nb terminals" the other has "f2 terminals". Not sure of the difference. Kevin, are you out there. Maybe you could help. If not, suggestions from others is greatly appreciated. Best regards, Don Mei (Old bat can't take the cold weather here 9 deg F this morning) Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com>
Subject: Color Moving Map
Date: Jan 03, 2001
Jerry, The IPAQ will play MP3's while running Anywheremap software. The List Pro software included with the IPAQ is great for developing checklists as you can check items off with a red checkmark in a box, and then clear all boxes on command for the next time. I'm working on developing the checklists now and plan to include an Emergency Checklist. I bought the IPAQ for the GPS use but find it a great little hand held computer for other tasks as well. It even has a voice recorder built in and a headphone jack for MP3's, etc. I own a Palm Pilot IIIxe as well, but the IPAQ is head and shoulders above it. They are hard to get, but Radio Shack can order them for you. It only took 2 weeks to get mine. $499 Ed Cole Maxim Integrated Products Bldg. 120 Ext. 6605 > -----Original Message----- > From: Jerry Calvert [SMTP:rv6bldr(at)home.com] > Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 12:22 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Color Moving Map > > > I have also been considering the Compaq IPAQ setup. I don't know anything > about the IPAQ, but I liked the capability of adding flight planning > software, checklists, and whatever. > > Recently, there has been a thread on car stereos being installed in RV's. > Hmmmm....wonder if the IPAQ has the capablility of playing MP3 audio files > through the intercom while also running the Map Anywhere software? Would > imagine it would need amplification, but there would be no skipping the > beat! > > Jerry Calvert > Edmond Ok > -6 fuselage > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM> > To: > Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 1:47 PM > Subject: Re: RV-List: Color Moving Map > > > > > > In a message dated 1/1/01 11:10:27 AM Pacific Standard Time, > > nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes: > > > > > I really like the Anywhere Map Compaq PDA but if I add something like > this I > > > would like a larger screen. (I can't find the actual screen size) > > > > > Norman, I am installing the compaq IPAQ version in the middle of my > panel > > flush mounted with room left over for a bigger screen when they become > > available. Im predicting (hoping hard) laptops will be replaced soon > with > a > > version sized somewhere in between the handheld and the current size > laptop. > > However the present size screen is easy to read when it is that close to > your > > face. > > Kevin Shannon > > -9A wiring and plumbing > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N526ms(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 03, 2001
Subject: RV6A- Vision Engine instrumentation
Listers. Anyone using the VM1000, please tell me where you are mounting the data processing unit. Thanks. Mike Garramone ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 03, 2001
From: bert murillo <bertrv6(at)yahoo.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 03, 2001
From: bert murillo <bertrv6(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Bob Nuckolls
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 03, 2001
From: Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org>
Subject: Re: Aileron Boot Pattern now on line...
I found this file a bit large, so I converted it to GIF and put it on my FTP server. You can download it from there, ftp://www.vansairforce.org/McHenry.Tedd/ The file name is Boot.gif, and it's 13 kB (compared to 720 kB for the original). Tedd McHenry Van's Air Force Western Canada Wing tedd(at)vansairforce.org http://www.vansairforce.org ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: RV8 question
Date: Jan 03, 2001
Bob, Ken's partially correct, it is for fuel-injected engines, specifically the angle-valve IO360. It has a forward facing/horizontal injector but it still needs an air inlet. The air is ducted to the injector thru a fiberglass snorkel, from a filter mounted in the floor of the left side inlet ramp. Van's sells the snorkel for the -8 and "other applications". I'm trying to use in in my -6 with the acid test in about a month when my engine comes out of the shop. Regards, Greg Young (Houston - DWH) RV-6 N6GY systems & wiring Bob Reiff wrote: > > A question - I notice some photos of the 8 have a carb air inlet on the > lower front cowling like the other RV's, but the photos on Van's web site > don't show that. The web site shows a smooth lower front cowling. Has the > cowling been changed to delete the air intake and if so, where is the carb > air inlet now located? Inside the cowling? > > Bob Reiff > Reiff Preheat Systems > www.execpc.com/reiff Bob, The smooth lower cowling is for the fuel-injected engines. No carb, no carb air inlet on the cowling. -- Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 #81125 (N118KB) fabricating panel www.egroups.com/files/bostonrvbuilders ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
Subject: Re: Seat Adjustment
Date: Jan 03, 2001
I would prefer to fly from the front hinge location, but my cushions (Orndorff) don't allow enough room for the stick. I like the reclining position more. As it is, I use the middle hinge. The rear hinge is too upright for my portly physique. Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 Indianapolis (110 hours) >>My question is this: Is > >there > >really enough room between the control stick and your uhm...(well lets say > >private parts????) to still fly the plane when the seat is in the most > >forward adjustment? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 03, 2001
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Seat Adjustment
most people I know dont even use the hinge they just let the seat back rest against the aft roll bar and use cushions as neccessary to bring them up to where they feel comfortable. --- "Randy J. Pflanzer" wrote: > > > I would prefer to fly from the front hinge location, > but my cushions > (Orndorff) don't allow enough room for the stick. I > like the reclining > position more. As it is, I use the middle hinge. > The rear hinge is too > upright for my portly physique. > > Randy Pflanzer N417G > RV-6 Indianapolis (110 hours) > > >>My question is this: Is > > >there > > >really enough room between the control stick and > your uhm...(well lets > say > > >private parts????) to still fly the plane when > the seat is in the most > > >forward adjustment? > > > > > > > through > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > Matronics! > > > > > ==== Glenn Williams 8A A&P N81GW Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net>
Subject: Re: Van's Alternator
Date: Jan 02, 2001
Good news - thanks Gary. I talked with Niagara Airparts this morning. They have sold these alternators for 4 - 5 years and have never had one returned. He said they would "take care of" any problems if the unit was returned in a reasonable time (1 - 1 1/2 years). The alternator comes with a 2 1/2" pulley and the custom mounting kit comes with and is not discounted if it is unwanted. I forgot to tell him that it will be a year before mine flies, but I'll deal with that when the (unlikely) time comes. Tom Barnes -6 O360 CS N442TB res ----- Original Message ----- From: Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2000 7:52 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's Alternator > > > Goto http://www.niagaraairparts.com/ and go to the bottom right side of the > page. Niagara shows their 40 amp nippondenso alternator which comes with a case > or boss mounts.. Great little unit. > > Gary Zilik > > Ted Lumpkin wrote: > > > > > I currently am installing the Van's alternator and am having second > > thoughts. For those who purchased the Chevy Sprint alternator, what bracket > > did you use to mount it to the engine? > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us>
Subject: Battery
Date: Jan 03, 2001
"nb" is for nut & bolt connection. "f2" is for a "faston" connection. Dear Listers, Kevin Shannon recently posted good results with a Powersonic PS-12180 from batteries.com. I visited the web site and they have 2 versions. One model has "nb terminals" the other has "f2 terminals". Not sure of the difference. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 03, 2001
From: joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Seat Adjustment
My wife uses the the front hinge when she is flying left seat workds fine for her. However being to lazy to change hinge position at times I find this a little to cozy for myself. Joe RV6A 130 hrs --- ENewton57(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > For those already flying (or at least further along > than me). I have just > finished my seats and installed the seat adjustment > hinges as per the plans. > Upon completion and installation of the seats, my > wife and I sat in the plane > for the first time (using a little foam to simulate > the seat upholstry). > My wife has short legs so I adjusted her seat on the > most forward hinge and > mine was adjusted on the most aft (I'm 6'0") My > question is this: Is there > really enough room between the control stick and > your uhm...(well lets say > private parts????) to still fly the plane when the > seat is in the most > forward adjustment? > > I don't have the seat upholstry yet and the sticks > are not installed yet, so > I thought I would ask some of you. > > Thanks, > > Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi > RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage) > http://www.ericsrv6a.com > > > > through > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > Matronics! > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 03, 2001
From: joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Seat Adjustment
My wife uses the the front hinge when she is flying left seat workds fine for her. However being to lazy to change hinge position at times I find this a little to cozy for myself. Joe RV6A 130 hrs --- ENewton57(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > For those already flying (or at least further along > than me). I have just > finished my seats and installed the seat adjustment > hinges as per the plans. > Upon completion and installation of the seats, my > wife and I sat in the plane > for the first time (using a little foam to simulate > the seat upholstry). > My wife has short legs so I adjusted her seat on the > most forward hinge and > mine was adjusted on the most aft (I'm 6'0") My > question is this: Is there > really enough room between the control stick and > your uhm...(well lets say > private parts????) to still fly the plane when the > seat is in the most > forward adjustment? > > I don't have the seat upholstry yet and the sticks > are not installed yet, so > I thought I would ask some of you. > > Thanks, > > Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi > RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage) > http://www.ericsrv6a.com > > > > through > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > Matronics! > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 03, 2001
From: Richard Riley <richard(at)riley.net>
Subject: MP3 player possibility.
> >Jerry, >The IPAQ will play MP3's while running Anywheremap software. The List Pro >software included with >the IPAQ is great for developing checklists as you can check items off with >a red checkmark >in a box, and then clear all boxes on command for the next time. I'm working >on developing the >checklists now and plan to include an Emergency Checklist. I intend to get an IPAQ with the control vision software soon, but I need something else in that realm as well. What I want is the smallest, simplest way of playing MP3's off a CD-ROM to feed into my intercom. 32 megs worth of MP3's are fine, but 600+ megs and cheap, exchangable media is what I want. Anyone have a suggestion? Richard Riley Renaissance Composites 3025 Airport Ave Santa Monica, CA 90405 310.391.1943 www.berkut.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BSivori(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 03, 2001
Subject: Re: RV8 question
Does the IO360 Angled Valve Engine fit into the RV6 - or do you have to go with a diffrent cowl. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CW9371(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 03, 2001
Subject: Re: MP3 player possibility.
In a message dated 1/3/2001 4:47:35 PM Central Standard Time, richard(at)riley.net writes: << I intend to get an IPAQ with the control vision software soon, but I need something else in that realm as well. What I want is the smallest, simplest way of playing MP3's off a CD-ROM to feed into my intercom. 32 megs worth of MP3's are fine, but 600+ megs and cheap, exchangable media is what I want. Anyone have a suggestion? >> aiwa makes a cd player radio for cars thats plays mp3s on cdrs. crutchfield carries awia. Starts out at 129 up to 299. This looks like it will be the choice for my f1 rocket when i get that far. chris wilcox f1 rocket ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Battery Source
Date: Jan 03, 2001
I am just about to buy a battery and found this thread interesting. One thing I would encourage folks to do is to look at the rated internal resistance of these batteries. The Powersonic is listed at 15 milliohms (http://www.power-sonic.com/12180.html) , the Panasonic is 12 (http://www.panasonic.com/industrial_oem/battery/battery_oem/images/pdf/lc-r d1217p.pdf ) and the Oddysey/Genisis/Hawker is 7.5 (http://www.hepi.com/genprod.htm) . I have decided to buy the Hawker 16 amp from my local Batteries Plus for $100. Ross Mickey ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: rookie question
Date: Jan 03, 2001
> Do I need to prime rivets after setting them, permissible to touch up > w/brush? i.e. spar and frames before skinning Even though most of us do prime the interior parts, it really is overkill, especially for a plane that will almost certainly spend its life in a nice dry (if not warm) hangar. The exception to this might be coastal areas. In any case I think its safe to say that priming the rivet heads could be considered double overkill. Randall ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: MP3 player possibility.
Date: Jan 03, 2001
There are a couple of different manufacturers out there that make these devices but have you considered something along the lines of an Iomega HipZip Digital Audio Player? It's small and holds 40 Meg per PocketZip disk. Read about it here: http://www.iomega.com/hipzip/index.html <http://www.iomega.com/hipzip/index.html> -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 -----Original Message----- From: CW9371(at)AOL.COM [mailto:CW9371(at)AOL.COM] Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 3:02 PM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: MP3 player possibility. In a message dated 1/3/2001 4:47:35 PM Central Standard Time, richard(at)riley.net writes: << I intend to get an IPAQ with the control vision software soon, but I need something else in that realm as well. What I want is the smallest, simplest way of playing MP3's off a CD-ROM to feed into my intercom. 32 megs worth of MP3's are fine, but 600+ megs and cheap, exchangable media is what I want. Anyone have a suggestion? >> aiwa makes a cd player radio for cars thats plays mp3s on cdrs. crutchfield carries awia. Starts out at 129 up to 299. This looks like it will be the choice for my f1 rocket when i get that far. chris wilcox f1 rocket ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 03, 2001
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Battery Source
Ross Mickey wrote: > > > I am just about to buy a battery and found this thread interesting. One > thing I would encourage folks to do is to look at the rated internal > resistance of these batteries. The Powersonic is listed at 15 milliohms > (http://www.power-sonic.com/12180.html) , the Panasonic is 12 > (http://www.panasonic.com/industrial_oem/battery/battery_oem/images/pdf/lc-r > d1217p.pdf ) and the Oddysey/Genisis/Hawker is 7.5 > (http://www.hepi.com/genprod.htm) . I have decided to buy the Hawker 16 amp > from my local Batteries Plus for $100. > > Ross Mickey > After flying my RV-6 for 11 years I have been through the battery scene more than I care to think about. I have tried the Sonics, Powersonics, and various other wheelchair batteries and so called gel cells. To date the best performing battery I have found is the plain old Concord RGB battery that Van's sell. I can let my airplane sit for any length of time and go out to fly and it well start every time. The other batteries would always seem to lose power if they were left to sit for very long. Jerry Springer ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BSEckstein(at)cs.com
Date: Jan 03, 2001
Subject: Pressure testing oil and fuel hoses
Does anyone have any neat ideas for pressure testing hoses? I'm thinking of using a grease gun on one end of a hose and a pressure guage on the other end. Then see if I can pump it up to 500 or 600 pounds using either grease or some thick oil. Has anyone got a better idea? Thanks in advance Brian Eckstein ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 03, 2001
From: Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV6A- Vision Engine instrumentation
Behind the display on a 'U' shaped .040 bracket. Bruce Glasair III N526ms(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > Listers. > Anyone using the VM1000, please tell me where you are mounting the data > processing unit. > Thanks. > Mike Garramone ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 03, 2001
From: Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Pressure testing oil and fuel hoses
Trot them down to your local hydraulic shop and have them test them. Bruce Glasair III BSEckstein(at)cs.com wrote: > > Does anyone have any neat ideas for pressure testing hoses? I'm thinking of > using a grease gun on one end of a hose and a pressure guage on the other > end. Then see if I can pump it up to 500 or 600 pounds using either grease > or some thick oil. Has anyone got a better idea? > > Thanks in advance > Brian Eckstein ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Aileron Boot Pattern now on line...
Date: Jan 03, 2001
I am working towards a really warm plane for winter flying. I was going to build a pair of boots but so far I can't locate any air leaks associated with the aileron push tube. I filled the vertical U-channels extending from the U-channel extending from the F604 with foam per an RV-Ator or List tip of a few years back. The velcroed stick boots from DJ complete the sealing off of the offending source of cold air. When I visually inspect the sheet metal covering in that area I don't see any obvious places for leaks. When I fly I haven't felt any cold air leaks from that area either. For those that have felt cold air coming in, where is coming in at? The only leaks I can identify so far are from the NACA outside vent plumbing. Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP still only 26 hours Hampshire, IL C38 -----Original Message----- From: Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> Date: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 3:23 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Aileron Boot Pattern now on line... > >I found this file a bit large, so I converted it to GIF and put it on my >FTP server. You can download it from there, > >ftp://www.vansairforce.org/McHenry.Tedd/ > >The file name is Boot.gif, and it's 13 kB (compared to 720 kB for the >original). > >Tedd McHenry >Van's Air Force >Western Canada Wing >tedd(at)vansairforce.org >http://www.vansairforce.org > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Pressure testing oil and fuel hoses
Date: Jan 03, 2001
A hand grease gun will produce pressures up to 6000 psi according to my WW Grainger catalog. Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh ----- Original Message ----- From: <BSEckstein(at)cs.com> Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 7:52 PM Subject: RV-List: Pressure testing oil and fuel hoses > > Does anyone have any neat ideas for pressure testing hoses? I'm thinking of > using a grease gun on one end of a hose and a pressure guage on the other > end. Then see if I can pump it up to 500 or 600 pounds using either grease > or some thick oil. Has anyone got a better idea? > > Thanks in advance > Brian Eckstein > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RICKRV6(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 03, 2001
Subject: Re: Aileron Boot Pattern now on line...
In a message dated 1/3/01 10:00:11 PM Eastern Standard Time, dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes: > The only leaks I can > identify so far are from the NACA outside vent plumbing. > Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP still only 26 hours > Hampshire, IL C38 > > Dennis, A relatively decent looking way to seal off the leaks form the eyeball vents is to make a press fit cap from the lid off plastic model spray paint. The inside diameter of the lid fits nice and snug over the eyeball vent. You'll want to trim the lid down to around an inch or so. I did this quite a few years ago on my -6 so you'll want to double check the size of the lids just in case they've changed recently. As far as other air leaks, mine came from the edges of the seat pan around the 604 bulkhead. Sounds like you have a good fix. Rick McBride ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 03, 2001
Subject: Re: RV6A- Vision Engine instrumentation
In a message dated 1/3/01 11:12:12 AM Pacific Standard Time, N526ms(at)AOL.COM writes: << Anyone using the VM1000, please tell me where you are mounting the data processing unit. >> I mounted my DPU on the forward side of the 6A slider subpanel using two Aeroflex isolators (stainless cable helix vibration isolators). I used the headers on the wiring to make removal more staightforward. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 03, 2001
From: deltaB(at)erols.com
Subject: RMI Micromonitor MAP Sensor Manifold Pressure NAPA Wells Rocky
Mountain monitor I hope those are enough key words for later searches. I may have found a replacement for the RMI MicroMonitor MAP sensor from NAPA and GM. I have a Wells SU129 obtained locally from Autozone http://www.autozone.com . It is a replacement for the GM 2 Bar MAP sensor 16009886. The reason I started this search was my NAPA device (CRB21963) is defective and I wanted a quick replacement. I also like the idea of hopefully scoping out an alternative. This one was 29usd. The other problem with these 2 Bar sensors is the connector keyway is different from the popular 1 Bar sensor so the easy to obtain replacement MAP connector must be modified to fit. I just cut a slot in it. It also looks like the sensor keyway may be removed, but I haven't tried it. The best part is, as far as I know, it works! When I plugged it in, I got a reasonable pressure (unlike the other car's 1 Bar MAP which read 55inHg) indication. Being ~50ft, I dialed up ATIS and obtained an indication of 30.2inHg, with the alt setting of 30.20inHg, and a calibration factor of -5. Using a mityvac, I ran it up and down the scale comparing 30.2 minus the vacuum gauge with the monitor indication. It was within .2 to .4"Hg at all points. I wouldn't exactly call the gauge on the mityvac a prime standard, but I liked the repeatability and linearity. To actually call it "calibrated" I'd need a better gauge that I'm probably not going to get. I don't know if this has RMI's blessing or even knowledge. I'll have to ask when I call to return the NAPA detector. I don't think the RV list was the best place to post this, just the best audience. If anyone knows of some RMI user group let me know. Bernie mailto:deltab(at)erols.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 03, 2001
From: Gordon Robertson <gordon(at)safemail.com>
Subject: Airframe Ground
... But why do it the wrong way, even if it "might be ok for a decade or so"? Aluminum contacts are not good, especially aluminum to a di-similar material like nickel coated copper. They do corrode. Anybody who carefully primes all the inner alclad surfaces of the skins should certainly be careful of corrosion problems in the electrical circuitry. The correct way is just one single 16 gauge wire for the grounds for all the wing lights. It is easy, cheap, light and correct. Gordon Robertson RV-8 wings For landing lights and nav lights.....airframe ground is more than sufficient. Your 'critical' stuff in an RV is generally in the panel where it's easy to run everything to a common ground, so the really important equipment is taken care of anyway. For lights in the wings, you can probly stand to have one go out every ten years or so, do the one minute fix.......and save yourself the effort/weight/time/cost of installing separate ground wires. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 03, 2001
From: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Pressure testing oil and fuel hoses
Grease is not a good medium to use because of the cleanup problem afterwards. Must faster, easier, cleaner and safer to let your local hose assembly/hydraulics shop do it for you. Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: MP3 player possibility.
Date: Jan 03, 2001
I intend to get an IPAQ with the control vision software soon, but I need something else in that realm as well. What I want is the smallest, simplest way of playing MP3's off a CD-ROM to feed into my intercom. 32 megs worth of MP3's are fine, but 600+ megs and cheap, exchangable media is what I want. Anyone have a suggestion? try the neo 35 from ssi. it uses 3.5 inch standard hard drives, and retails for about 219..effectively you could have a 20-30 gig MP3 player for 219 plus hd cost. if you get the remote display the neo will also act as a changer with mounting out of site... it comes with two trays one for the computer and one for the vehicle. when its in your computer it acts as an additional hd. http://www.think-box.com/neo35.html Steven DiNieri ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CW9371(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 03, 2001
Subject: Re: MP3 player possibility.
In a message dated 1/3/2001 10:37:43 PM Central Standard Time, capsteve(at)adelphia.net writes: << try the neo 35 from ssi. it uses 3.5 inch standard hard drives, and retails for about 219..effectively you could have a 20-30 gig MP3 player for 219 plus hd cost. if you get the remote display the neo will also act as a changer with mounting out of site... it comes with two trays one for the computer and one for the vehicle. when its in your computer it acts as an additional hd. http://www.think-box.com/neo35.html Steven DiNieri >> I would be careful of anything using a standard harddrive in an airplane. Several companies I know are developing computered based instruments for an aircraft. They all ran into problems with the hardrives on the aircraft. The inflight vibration, tubulence etc casued the drives to crash permantly in short order. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Heater (was firewall)
Date: Jan 03, 2001
>I need to do some stream lining > of the 2 inch scat hose I want to use aluminum tubing as used in auto applications - very low weight and quite smooth but I can only find it in 18 inch lengths. Anyone know of a source of longer? Hal Kempthorne RV6a N7HK - signed off! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Heater (was firewall)
Date: Jan 03, 2001
>I need to do some stream lining > of the 2 inch scat hose I want to use aluminum tubing as used in auto applications - very low weight and quite smooth but I can only find it in 18 inch lengths. Anyone know of a source of longer? Hal Kempthorne RV6a N7HK - signed off! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Heater (was firewall)
Date: Jan 03, 2001
>I need to do some stream lining > of the 2 inch scat hose I want to use aluminum tubing as used in auto applications - very low weight and quite smooth but I can only find it in 18 inch lengths. Anyone know of a source of longer? Hal Kempthorne RV6a N7HK - signed off! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 03, 2001
From: tom sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com>
Subject: Re: Question for RV6/6A Quickbuilders...
KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > Fellow Quickbuilders, > > Im getting ready to work on the wing and am wondering how you mounted your > wing to work on it. I took the advice of some one at Van's (Scott R. I think) and put a piece of thick carpet on my work table and just set the wing on that. When it was time to rivet the skin on, I put it in the wing cradle because it is more convenient to do tha with the wing in a vertical position. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net>
Subject: Re: Aileron Boot Pattern now on line...and another type in the
works
Date: Jan 03, 2001
Hello to the list, Recently I took the time to re-invent the aileron pushrod seal idea. Instead of making a cone style seal I made a bellows style. It took a bit of trial and error but the outcome worked out very nice. They are now installed ( the wings are not on yet) and I have fitted a short length of tube to test the fit and operation. They move silently with out interfering with the feel of the controls at all. The material is under very little stress and therefore I expect they should not fail due to wear for quite some time. I have some pictures of the proto types that are as yet undeveloped. The roll is all but finished and will be developed soon. These bellows type seals are definitely more work, cutting and sewing, but the results seem to please others that have seen them and of course I'm happy with them. If you find this seal idea interesting email me off line Jim in Kelowna ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fesenbek, Gary" <Gary.Fesenbek(at)marykay.com>
Subject: Heater / Survival
Date: Jan 04, 2001
Considering the consequences of a forced landing in winter weather I dress appropriately to the weather outside when I fly and I carrry a survival kit in my aircraft. I actually have two survival kits. I have a big one (that weighs more) when I am flying by myself and a little one when I am flying close to gross weight. I've been through Survival school so yeah, I think I can start a fire with a stick and a shoe string, but just in case, I have waterproof matches, first aid items, a couple of space blankets, plastic bags, a few knives, magnesium fire starter, fishing line plus more. After you graduate from the school and hear about the successes and failures of surviving out in the wild sometimes just a few items and more importantly common sense can make the difference. Gary Fesenbek RV6A Dallas, TX ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Battery Source
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Jan 04, 2001
01/04/2001 09:01:00 I recall Elect. Bob telling us that the internal resistance (that you noted in your post) is more of a function of the internal design of the battery itself then the health or power delivery capability of a battery. RG, flooded cell, glass matt, gell cell, wet cell, dry cell ....all variations on a theme......all have different cell design, hence internal resistance differences......Is Elect Bob. avail for comment ...???? "Ross Mickey" To: Sent by: cc: owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: Re: RV-List: Battery Source ronics.com 01/03/2001 06:11 PM Please respond to rv-list I am just about to buy a battery and found this thread interesting. One thing I would encourage folks to do is to look at the rated internal resistance of these batteries. The Powersonic is listed at 15 milliohms (http://www.power-sonic.com/12180.html) , the Panasonic is 12 ( http://www.panasonic.com/industrial_oem/battery/battery_oem/images/pdf/lc-r d1217p.pdf ) and the Oddysey/Genisis/Hawker is 7.5 (http://www.hepi.com/genprod.htm) . I have decided to buy the Hawker 16 amp from my local Batteries Plus for $100. Ross Mickey ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Question for RV6/6A Quickbuilders...
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Jan 04, 2001
01/04/2001 09:12:02 AM Even if you wing is pre-drilled , you still need to jig it when assembling. There can be lots of shifting and things going out of square and warping if you just table rivet it. tom sargent To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent by: cc: owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: Re: RV-List: Question for RV6/6A ronics.com Quickbuilders... 01/04/2001 01:37 AM Please respond to rv-list KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > Fellow Quickbuilders, > > Im getting ready to work on the wing and am wondering how you mounted your > wing to work on it. I took the advice of some one at Van's (Scott R. I think) and put a piece of thick carpet on my work table and just set the wing on that. When it was time to rivet the skin on, I put it in the wing cradle because it is more convenient to do tha with the wing in a vertical position. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: rookie question- Prime of interior metal parts
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Jan 04, 2001
01/04/2001 09:29:17 Having all my aircraft (CUb & RV-4) in a hanger is nice but consider this......About 5 time a year the atmospheric conditions (humidity,temp & air mass ect..) cause EVERYTHING in my hanger to sweat and drip water. My tool cabinet (metal), work bench and ENTIRE airctaft look like the fire company misted great volumes of water over everything in the hanger. A hi humidity day followed by a rapid temp reduction causes this condition. Anywho, I got courious and peeked inside a inspection plate on the RV-4 and it was damp inside. My tool cabinent, with closed drawers, also has moist tools. In a day or two the water sublimates. My point being there can be water in your future where priming can certainly be of value "Randall Henderson" To: Sent by: cc: owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: Re: RV-List: rookie question ronics.com 01/03/2001 07:05 PM Please respond to rv-list > Do I need to prime rivets after setting them, permissible to touch up > w/brush? i.e. spar and frames before skinning Even though most of us do prime the interior parts, it really is overkill, especially for a plane that will almost certainly spend its life in a nice dry (if not warm) hangar. The exception to this might be coastal areas. In any case I think its safe to say that priming the rivet heads could be considered double overkill. Randall ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net>
Subject: Re: MP3 player possibility.
Date: Jan 04, 2001
If you are going to put the MP3's on a cd, just convert and burn them in CD audio format instead of MP3 and play it in your cd player... Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Finish Kit (Still) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 9:22 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: MP3 player possibility. > > > I intend to get an IPAQ with the control vision software soon, but I need > something else in that realm as well. What I want is the smallest, > simplest way of playing MP3's off a CD-ROM to feed into my intercom. 32 > megs worth of MP3's are fine, but 600+ megs and cheap, exchangable media is > what I want. Anyone have a suggestion? > > > try the neo 35 from ssi. it uses 3.5 inch standard hard drives, and retails > for about 219..effectively you could have a 20-30 gig MP3 player for 219 > plus hd cost. if you get the remote display the neo will also act as a > changer with mounting out of site... it comes with two trays one for the > computer and one for the vehicle. when its in your computer it acts as an > additional hd. > > http://www.think-box.com/neo35.html > > Steven DiNieri > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net>
Subject: Re: Question for RV6/6A Quickbuilders...
Date: Jan 04, 2001
I used a borrowed wing jig. Made for hanging the ailerons and flaps much easier. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Finish Kit (Still) ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom sargent" <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com> Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 11:37 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Question for RV6/6A Quickbuilders... > > KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > > > > Fellow Quickbuilders, > > > > Im getting ready to work on the wing and am wondering how you mounted your > > wing to work on it. > > I took the advice of some one at Van's (Scott R. I think) and put a piece of > thick carpet on my work table and just set the wing on that. When it was time > to rivet the skin on, I put it in the wing cradle because it is more convenient > to do tha with the wing in a vertical position. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Heater (was firewall)
Date: Jan 04, 2001
Try Univair, They will sell by the foot. ----- Original Message ----- From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 11:34 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Heater (was firewall) > > >I need to do some stream lining > > of the 2 inch scat hose > > I want to use aluminum tubing as used in auto applications - very low weight > and quite smooth but I can only find it in 18 inch lengths. Anyone know of > a source of longer? > > Hal Kempthorne > RV6a N7HK - signed off! > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 2001
From: "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: ElectroAir Electronic Ignition
Bryan, I recieved the ignition yesterday and have a couple of questions. I realize that you had this installed on your 8 but I was wondering where (in relation to the engine) did you mount the control/coil unit on the firewall? There was/is a wire splice on the red wire from the trigger, what was this for? Also I must assume that the short white shielded wire (out of the control unit) is the red/white +12 line mentioned in the instructions. Is this correct? I hoped to get the ignition installed this weekend but still need to find a mag gear for the pickup. Both my mags are impulse coupled so I dont have a gear. I think I'll look around the airport before giving Jeff Rose 60 bucks for one. Oh, did you get the check? -- Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado RV-6A N99PZ Flying Engine: Aerosport Power O-360-A1A Prop: Sensenich 72FM8S9-1-83 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 2001
From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: MP3 player possibility.
Richard Riley wrote: > > > > > >Jerry, > >The IPAQ will play MP3's while running Anywheremap software. The List Pro > >software included with > >the IPAQ is great for developing checklists as you can check items off with > >a red checkmark > >in a box, and then clear all boxes on command for the next time. I'm working > >on developing the > >checklists now and plan to include an Emergency Checklist. > > I intend to get an IPAQ with the control vision software soon, but I need > something else in that realm as well. What I want is the smallest, > simplest way of playing MP3's off a CD-ROM to feed into my intercom. 32 > megs worth of MP3's are fine, but 600+ megs and cheap, exchangable media is > what I want. Anyone have a suggestion? > > Richard Riley Several companies are selling portable cd players now which will play mp3 cds. Try computergeeks.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Reiff" <Reiff(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Cold weather starting
Date: Jan 04, 2001
A few people emailed off list saying they couldn't find the article on our web site... From the main page, click on "Product info", then look down in the Table of Contents there are several articles listed. The Busch article is the one you want. I'm in the same boat. After posting a question about the differences I've seen in the RV8 cowls, I found the answer in Van's web site - just didn't look hard enough. Bob Reiff Reiff Preheat Systems www.execpc.com/reiff >For non-CPA members, we have a copy of the article on our web site. > >Probably the best article I've seen on the effects of cold starts. > >Bob Reiff >Reiff Preheat Systems >www.execpc.com/reiff > >>There's a great pre-heat article at >>http://www.cessna.org/members/032tech.pdf . You have to be a Cessna Pilot's >>Association Member to get at it though. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com>
Subject: Re: 8-center section/gas cap questions
Date: Jan 04, 2001
Jack, If you are talking about the vertical F-804C pieces, mine were warped too, but you will eventually clamp a block between them when you assemble them that seemed to straighten them out for riveting fine. As for the warped flanges for the gas filler, yes, that is to fit the curvature of the wing leading edge. I figuered that out on the second one. Terry RV-8A #80729 fuselage Seattle > Tried Van's on this one, but I think they are quite busy with inventory this > week. In my (8) wing kit with the Phlogiston (sp) spar, the 0215 right, > left, forward and aft center sections pieces seem to be somewhat warped. Is > this normal? Also, here is another dumb one, The flanges on the gas filler > assemblies are bent (which I assume will fit the curvature of the wing). Is > this correct? > Thanks! > Jack > 8-wings > Des Moines, IA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Internal Resistance was Battery Source
Date: Jan 04, 2001
> > I recall Elect. Bob telling us that the internal resistance (that you > noted in your post) is more of a function of the internal design of the > battery itself then the health or power delivery capability of a battery. > RG, flooded cell, glass matt, gell cell, wet cell, dry cell ....all > variations on a theme......all have different cell design, hence internal > resistance differences......Is Elect Bob. avail for comment ...???? This is how I understand it also. Also, the internal resistance increases as the battery "dies". A battery starting with an internal resistance of 14 milliohms will have an internal resistance of 28 after the battery losses half of its capacity. One that starts with an internal resistance of 7.5 will increase to 15 under the same senario. Page 2-6 of Bobs book shows the affect of internal resistance on cranking power. In his example (assuming specific wire lengths and gauges), the voltage delivered to the starter by a battery with an internal resistance of 11.5 milliohm is 8.25 volts. For a battery with an internal resistance of 4 milliohms, this increases to 9.9 volts. By changing the wire from a 4 gauge to a 2 gauge, the voltage increases to 10.3 volts. My interpretation of all this is the lower the internal resistance, the better cranking of the engine. Also, as the battery ages, its internal resistance increases so starting as low as possible is a good thing. This is why I am choosing the Hawker over the other brands. Ross ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com>
Subject: Airframe Ground
Date: Jan 04, 2001
5.0.3 (Intl)|21 March 2000) at 01/04/2001 11:53:22 AM Hi Gordon, For wing light grounding, do whatever makes you feel good. If you feel that the "correct way is just one single 16 gauge wire" then by all means, you should do it that way. I was only giving my humble opinion based on personal experience that I think it's unnecessary. Your wing lights will probably work just as well either way. : ) The most important thing is that you're comfortable and happy with whichever way you go. I don't want to start a big debate or flame war over nav light grounding so I'll rest my case and leave each to his own grounding scheme. --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapid, Iowa RV-8A fuselage....wings finally done (but wired 'the wrong way'...) From: Gordon Robertson <gordon(at)safemail.com> Subject: RV-List: Airframe Ground ... But why do it the wrong way, even if it "might be ok for a decade or so"? Aluminum contacts are not good, especially aluminum to a di-similar material like nickel coated copper. They do corrode. Anybody who carefully primes all the inner alclad surfaces of the skins should certainly be careful of corrosion problems in the electrical circuitry. The correct way is just one single 16 gauge wire for the grounds for all the wing lights. It is easy, cheap, light and correct. Gordon Robertson RV-8 wings For landing lights and nav lights.....airframe ground is more than sufficient. Your 'critical' stuff in an RV is generally in the panel where it's easy to run everything to a common ground, so the really important equipment is taken care of anyway. For lights in the wings, you can probly stand to have one go out every ten years or so, do the one minute fix.......and save yourself the effort/weight/time/cost of installing separate ground wires. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: 'Lectric Bob?
Date: Jan 04, 2001
> I keep seeing references to Electric Bob - Does he have a web site? How do > I get his book? > > Dave Berryhill http://www.aeroelectric.com/ Ross ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Internal Resistance was Battery Source
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Jan 04, 2001
01/04/2001 14:30:52 You reminded me about Bobs book. I should make a copy for my office. If anyone dosen't have Bobs book, its one of those practical books that you probably knew the electrical data once in your live,but since forgot or got fuzzy on . After a graduate degree in EE and math courses all the way up to " n-dimential non-Euclidean geometric space quantum theorm" , I really do appreciate the practical nature and the down-to-earth presentation method that Bob delivers. Come to think of it, since college I never used all the advanced math I lerned. I have ,however, used the practical data from Bobs books thou.......hhmmmm "Ross Mickey" To: Sent by: cc: owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: RV-List: Internal Resistance was Battery Source ronics.com 01/04/2001 12:52 PM Please respond to rv-list > > I recall Elect. Bob telling us that the internal resistance (that you > noted in your post) is more of a function of the internal design of the > battery itself then the health or power delivery capability of a battery. > RG, flooded cell, glass matt, gell cell, wet cell, dry cell ....all > variations on a theme......all have different cell design, hence internal > resistance differences......Is Elect Bob. avail for comment ...???? This is how I understand it also. Also, the internal resistance increases as the battery "dies". A battery starting with an internal resistance of 14 milliohms will have an internal resistance of 28 after the battery losses half of its capacity. One that starts with an internal resistance of 7.5 will increase to 15 under the same senario. Page 2-6 of Bobs book shows the affect of internal resistance on cranking power. In his example (assuming specific wire lengths and gauges), the voltage delivered to the starter by a battery with an internal resistance of 11.5 milliohm is 8.25 volts. For a battery with an internal resistance of 4 milliohms, this increases to 9.9 volts. By changing the wire from a 4 gauge to a 2 gauge, the voltage increases to 10.3 volts. My interpretation of all this is the lower the internal resistance, the better cranking of the engine. Also, as the battery ages, its internal resistance increases so starting as low as possible is a good thing. This is why I am choosing the Hawker over the other brands. Ross ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DThomas773(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 04, 2001
Subject: Re: 'Lectric Bob?
Electric Bob's website address is ( http://www.aeroelectric.com ). Best try getting his book from Cleveland tool. Dennis Thomas RV-9A Emp 0-320 A2B ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Jan 03, 2001
Subject: Re: Pressure testing oil and fuel hoses
> Does anyone have any neat ideas for pressure testing hoses? I'm > thinking of using a grease gun on one end of a hose and a pressure > guage on the other end. Then see if I can pump it up to 500 or 600 > pounds using either grease or some thick oil. Has anyone got a better > idea? http://www.vargaair.com used to advertise that they would pressure check hoses. Tim ****** Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a ****** "Don't throw your vote away... Let the Supreme Court throw it away for you." ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Aileron Boot Pattern now on line...
Date: Jan 04, 2001
> > The only leaks I can > > identify so far are from the NACA outside vent plumbing. I had leaks between the eyeball vent assembly and the vent flange piece. Made a gasket out of automotive fiber gasket material -- problem solved. I don't have any pushrod bellows but the stick boots seem to block most of that air. When I take out the co-pilot's stick howver -- hoo-boy! I'm sure a set of those bellows thingies would help regardless, cuz that air's probably just blowing in through the cracks instead. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 2001
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Pressure testing oil and fuel hoses
do not use a grease gun. If you can get a hydraulic jack you can thread on a #4 fitting so your hoses or lines will be able to screw right on and then use a gauge on the other end this will suffice. However do not use any petroleum fluids other than what the line will be used for. Also ensure the line is primed i.e. no air pockets. or you will get a reading that will drop and cause you to think you have a leak. Glenn --- Tim Lewis wrote: > > > > > Does anyone have any neat ideas for pressure > testing hoses? I'm > > thinking of using a grease gun on one end of a > hose and a pressure > > guage on the other end. Then see if I can pump it > up to 500 or 600 > > pounds using either grease or some thick oil. Has > anyone got a better > > idea? > > http://www.vargaair.com used to advertise that they > would pressure > check hoses. > > Tim > ****** > Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA > RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 > http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a > ****** > "Don't throw your vote away... > Let the Supreme Court throw it away for you." > > > > through > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > Matronics! > > > > > ==== Glenn Williams 8A A&P N81GW Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online! ________________________________________________________________________________ User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
Date: Jan 04, 2001
Subject: Bob's Book
From: "Denis (Bum) Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net>
on 1/4/01 13:13, DThomas773(at)AOL.COM at DThomas773(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > Electric Bob's website address is ( http://www.aeroelectric.com ). Best try > getting his book from Cleveland tool. > Dennis Thomas > RV-9A Emp > 0-320 A2B > > I been reading this list a helluva long time. Bob is one of my favorite guys and a wealth of info and a good source of materials. On the other hand he is one busy dude and has a lot of obligations. If you want his book delivered on time, get it from the "Builders Bookstore". http://www.buildersbooks.com/electrical_systems1.htm He is an RV guy, and this is his business. He gets them from Bob the minute they come out and he keeps them in stock. I think the price is the same. D Walsh ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 2001
From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: Aileron Boots
snip I don't have any pushrod bellows but the stick boots seem to block most of that air. When I take out the co-pilot's stick howver -- hoo-boy! I'm sure a set of those bellows thingies would help regardless, cuz that air's probably just blowing in through the cracks instead. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs) snip Hi all, My RV was like Randall's, I didn't have pushrod boots installed, and the stick boots did a fair job keeping the breeze out. It wasn't until I put the crotch belt structure, and belt cutout in the seat pan that I started getting a cold breeze on my, well,....um, let's just say it was uncomfortable on cold days at altitude. And I had a foam seal around the belt and the seat pan, but it still blowing thru big time. (BTW, I love having that 5th point installed. I have Pacific Aero Belts, and Rob told me to put it in, but I thought naw...I'll wait. After I put it in, it made the shoulder belts more comfortable by keeping the weight of the belts behind my shoulders from trying to lift the lap belt. I was surprised.) My dad just spent about 3 days making up a bellows system for the pushrod/fuselage interface. It's been in the 80's here in SoCal the last week, so I'll have to wait until the weather gets colder (maybe in the 50's ;-) before I'll be able to see if it works. (Sorry...I couldn't resist. You know, if it wasn't for all the people, this might be a great place to live). Oh yeah, I still have to finish up installing the new windshield too. Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 150 hrs O-360, Sensenich (83) Simi Valley, SoCal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: Re: Internal Resistance was Battery Source
Date: Jan 04, 2001
The chapter in Bob's book regarding batteries is must reading for all, even those without airplanes. He, by the way, does not monitor this list, but does monitor the new Aeroelectric list hosted graciously by Matt. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN 6A ------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: Re: Pressure testing oil and fuel hoses
Date: Jan 04, 2001
> > Does anyone have any neat ideas for pressure testing hoses Not a "neat" idea, but... I invested a total of about 80 bucks for a remote hydraulic jack and some AN fittings and a gauge, and pressure tested all the hoses myself. The remote jack is a hand pump on its side, with a hose going to the actual jack. I removed the hose and put a manifold there for all the sizes of hoses I might test. Ran them all up to 1000psi. Anyone in the Minneapolis area is welcome to use it. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN 6A ------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul & Gerti RV-4 F-1 Rocket 006" <gertivs(at)netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Using IPAQ for GPS
Date: Jan 04, 2001
----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Mack" <don(at)dmack.net> Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 9:06 PM Subject: RV-List: Using IPAQ for GPS > I have looked at both Control Vision (www.controlvision.com) and Teletype > (www.teletype.com) systems online. ............ Has anyone actually seen both of these systems and can offer a > review? a local pilot is a free lance aviation writer and just submitted a review of aviation gps for PDAs. Said the article would be in Private Pilot magazine very soon. In just talking to him he said the Controlvision for the Ipaq was too busy. I got the Ipaq for Christmas (thanks again wife) and think it can't be beat. If too busy just declutter or program the display to suit Paul Vander Schuur Shop Safely Online Without a Credit Card http://www.rocketcash.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Cracked cylinder discovery
Date: Jan 05, 2001
Greetings listers, As part of my annual condition inspection on my -8, I discovered a low compression reading on #1 cylinder. The other three were OK, but numero uno just went pphhhhttttt with 80 psi applied. It seemed to be coming out of the exhaust port. So, I think "stuck or non-seating exhaust valve". I compress the rocker spring, jiggle the valve around, give it a tap with a mallet and still no compression. Bummer. Off with it's head! I pulled the jug and all seemed OK, but some shiny metallic spatter was seen around the exhaust valve seat. Not good. My A&P/IA buddy promptly recommended sending it off to Gibson Aviation for inspection and repair. Result: It's cracked near the exhaust port. One more Lycoming cylinder on the scrap heap. A cylinder kit is on the way for $680 and I hope to have it installed this weekend. I have no idea when the crack happened. The engine seemed to be running fine, although my gut instinct over the past couple of months has been that it's just not as "perky" as it was early last year. Starting has never been a problem, and it's as smooth as any four banger Lycoming I've ever operated. The engine has about 450 hours SMOH, but I don't have the exact history on the cylinders, if they are Lycoming, ECI, whatever. So, it pays to take compression readings often...not just for 100 hour or annual inspections...but maybe at each oil change. It really doesn't take all that long anyway. Just pulling the prop through by hand can also reveal a really soft cylinder if one goes sour on you. Just thought I'd share my pain and offer some insight into the joys of aircraft ownership. ;) Brian Denk RV8 N94BD O-360A4J/180hp/Sensenich Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BSEckstein(at)cs.com
Date: Jan 04, 2001
Subject: Re: Pressure testing oil and fuel hoses
In a message dated 1/4/01 6:59:21 PM Eastern Standard Time, alexpeterson(at)usjet.net writes: > > Not a "neat" idea, but... I invested a total of about 80 bucks for a remote > hydraulic jack and some AN fittings and a gauge, and pressure tested all the > hoses myself. The remote jack is a hand pump on its side, with a hose going > to the actual jack. I removed the hose and put a manifold there for all the > sizes of hoses I might test. Ran them all up to 1000psi. > Where did you get the jack? Brian Eckstein ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 2001
From: "R. Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net>
Subject: Infinity Stick blue wire
Listers: I am starting the installation of my Infinity grip. Where are people drilling the exit hole for the blue (covered collection of all switch wires) in the control column? How big a hole are you drilling? A basic question: How does the darn thing (grip) attach to the control stick?? Thanks. Wayne Willuams RV-8A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Infinity Stick blue wire
Date: Jan 04, 2001
I haven't attached the grip, but it comes with "plans" that show how you cut the top of the control stick . . . you unscrew the two halves of the grip and screw this back into the top of the stick where you've cut the proper pattern. I think the infinity guy can get you a drawing or if you send me your fax number I can get you something. Re: the blue sheath, this seems THIN . . . I cut my holes above the pivot point of the control stick on the left side . . . coming out of the side of the stick, not the front or back. After seeing how hard it was to thread the wire bundle through the hole I drilled, I decided to elongate the hole, making it more of an oval versus a circle. I've read elsewhere where people are putting a bit of RTV or something as a hole sealer after everything is wired, etc. Good luck. I think we have the best grip out there . . . but I don't want to start a series of primer-like flames. Rick Jory ----- Original Message ----- From: R. Wayne Williams <rwayne(at)gamewood.net> Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 7:14 PM Subject: RV-List: Infinity Stick blue wire > > Listers: > > I am starting the installation of my Infinity grip. Where are people > drilling the exit hole for the blue (covered collection of all switch > wires) in the control column? How big a hole are you drilling? > A basic question: How does the darn thing (grip) attach to the control stick?? > Thanks. > > Wayne Willuams > RV-8A > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 2001
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: ELT [was Heater (was firewall)]
> >121.5 and 243.0 are the current ELT/Emergency Freqs. Don't know about 406 >yet. > >Mike Robertson >RV-8A > FAR 91.207 simply requires an approved ELT, with no specific TSO specified. TSO C126 covers the 406 MHz ELTs. For a list of TSO holders, see: http://av-info.faa.gov/tso/Holders/C126.html So, the way I read it, 406 MHz ELTs are legal now. I plan on having one, but I hope the price comes down some more before I have to buy it. The NOAA SARSAT page has lots of interesting info, including the number of rescues attributed to the SARSAT program. See: http://www.sarsat.noaa.gov Take care, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy) Ottawa, Canada http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net>
Subject: Re: Infinity Stick blue wire
Date: Jan 04, 2001
Good timing..I just did this tonight! I put one hole down close to the bottom. I drilled it to 7/16" and put a grommet in. Then I cut the blue jacket back to just above where that grommet is (when installed). Fish the wires down one at a time, put an "L" bend in the end and feed it each wire through the hole with a pair of hemostats. To attach it, you loosen the bottom two allen screws and slip it over the stick. Then put it in position and tighten down. Friction holds it on. For the passenger stick you need to use the steel adapter that he offers, as the diameter of the passenger stick is smaller. Also, be sure you have your control sticks cut to length before you start this process. If you need pictures, let me know....I plan on updating my website sometime soon, if I can just pull myself away from my almost completed RV! Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Finish Kit (Still) ----- Original Message ----- From: "R. Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net> Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 7:14 PM Subject: RV-List: Infinity Stick blue wire > > Listers: > > I am starting the installation of my Infinity grip. Where are people > drilling the exit hole for the blue (covered collection of all switch > wires) in the control column? How big a hole are you drilling? > A basic question: How does the darn thing (grip) attach to the control stick?? > Thanks. > > Wayne Willuams > RV-8A > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net>
Subject: Re: Pressure testing oil and fuel hoses
Date: Jan 04, 2001
Check with Varga... http://www.vargaair.com I had them do mine, and it was very reasonable, and it is nice piece of mind that it was done by an aeroquip shop. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Finish Kit (Still) ----- Original Message ----- From: <BSEckstein(at)cs.com> Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 6:52 PM Subject: RV-List: Pressure testing oil and fuel hoses > > Does anyone have any neat ideas for pressure testing hoses? I'm thinking of > using a grease gun on one end of a hose and a pressure guage on the other > end. Then see if I can pump it up to 500 or 600 pounds using either grease > or some thick oil. Has anyone got a better idea? > > Thanks in advance > Brian Eckstein > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: Re: Pressure testing oil and fuel hoses
Date: Jan 04, 2001
> > > Where did you get the jack? > At a place called Northern. Don't know if they are around the country or just here in the Twin Cities. Seem like Graingers and McMaster would also have them. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN 6A ------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Airframe Ground
Date: Jan 04, 2001
> ... But why do it the wrong way, even if it "might be ok for a decade > or so"? Aluminum contacts are not good, especially aluminum to a > di-similar material like nickel coated copper. They do corrode. I don't think it's necessarily a 'given' that using airframe ground is "wrong"... Conductive grease works well for preventing corrosion. I used it on my main airframe/engine grounds, starter, alternator, battery posts, etc. (not my wing lights though... should have) Dedicated grounds have their own disadvantages -- that long wire which adds weight and has some resistance, and probably extra connectors that could potentially fail. And there's something to be said for KISS. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 2001
From: Bill Ervin <bjervin(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: ELT [was Heater (was firewall)]
In Civil Air Patrol, we've been told 406 mhz is the new standard, 121.5 will be phased out. How long is anybody's guess. There is currently at least one SARSAT that receives the 406 signal. Reasons: less false activation's (store signs, movie marquees etc.) Better signal, easier to track and locate and tone burst for last known GPS location They are spendy right know, but what's it worth to have a better chance to be found and rescued? Kevin is right, the FAR only requires an approved ELT, but if the 121.5s are phased out in the future, you'll be buying the new version anyway!! Bill RV6 Fus ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 2001
From: deltaB(at)erols.com
Subject: Re: Van's Alternator -> airframe ground
Don Winters wrote: > > > Aluminum Oxide is a better insulator than glass! That is why aluminum wire > is no longer used for residential wiring. If it is used at all for an > electrical connection, the connection is coated with an anti-corrosive > compound, and sealed from the elements. > ALNOX is used at work. Here is a piece of a transformer installation manual: "If in the case of protective compounds it becomes necessary to reapply it, clean all contact surfaces of oxide and re-coat with a good quality compound, following the manufacturer's instructions. Many kinds are commercially available. Some of them are Penetrox A, Alnox-UG, and Thomas & Betts 21059. When re-coating, wipe off any excessive compound." Bernie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Oil Cooler Fittings
Date: Jan 05, 2001
Fittings!!!!!! I have spent an inordinate amount of time figuring out the fittings I need for hoses only to find (after a week waiting for the well planned order to arrive) that the well tuned plan has turned to rat sxxx. OK, now that I have vented, here is my question. I have a O360-A1A. The operators manual shows one place for the oil to return to the engine from the cooler. This fitting is a .375 NPT 18. The maual shows two places that oil can be taken from the engine and run to the oil cooler. One is on top of the spin on oil filter and the other is below it. The outlet below the oil filter is a .375 NPT 18. The outlet on top of the oil filter is a ????? It is NOT a .375 NPT. It is slightly smaller than this. The manual is not clear. Two questions. 1) Is anyone using the outlet on top of the oil filter to run oil to the cooler? It is a much handier location than the one buried below the filter. 2) What is the fitting size? Maybe an AN-8? I don't have an AN-8 male to check. Thanks a million. Ross ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 2001
From: Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: ELT [was Heater (was firewall)]
I read somewhere last night, maybe at AOPA.org, that 121.5 will NOT be monitored after 2009. -Larry --- Bill Ervin wrote: > > In Civil Air Patrol, we've been told 406 mhz is the new standard, 121.5 > will be phased out. How long is anybody's guess. There is currently at > least one SARSAT that receives the 406 signal. > > Reasons: less false activation's (store signs, movie marquees etc.) > Better signal, easier to track and locate and tone burst for > > last known GPS location > > They are spendy right know, but what's it worth to have a better chance > to be found and rescued? > > Kevin is right, the FAR only requires an approved ELT, but if the 121.5s > are phased out in the future, you'll be buying the new version anyway!! > > Bill > RV6 Fus > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: 406mhz ELT
Date: Jan 05, 2001
Gentlemen, I just read an excellent article on the strengths and weaknesses of current and future ELT standards. I can't for the life of me find the article though or I would give a reference. However here is a bit of what I do remember: Organization is COSPAS/SARSAT. (http://www.cospas-sarsat.org/) Cospas is acronym for Russian side of partnership. 98% of all detected 121.5mhz "distress calls" are bogus. (That doesn't mean that 98% of all ELT triggerings are bogus) This is because the system can't differentiate an ELT signal from 121mhz noise created by another source. To combat this all 406mhz beacons emit a digital data stream, once every 50 seconds, that clearly identify them as emergency beacons. In fact you need to register a 406mhz beacon. Once registered, if your signal is picked up, they can cross reference it with a registration database and figure out not just where, but FROM WHOM the signal is coming. COSPAS/SARSAT will stop monitoring 121.5 in year 2008. SAR aircraft will still use 121.5, so conforming 406mhz ELT must have both 406 and 121.5. New 406mhz ELTs (i'm fuzzy on if they are yet available) will cost (or currently cost) about $3000!!!! OK now here's a thought. Marine 406mhz EPIRBs cost about $850 and include the 121.5mhz transmitter. The only difference is that they do not self activate. (Actually they do, on imersion in water, but that usually won't do us much good) If $850 is too much for you, its too much for me!! Be aware that organizations like Boat-US will rent you a 406 mhz epirb for about $40/week. Just right for that 1st trip over the Rockies on your way to Oshkosh. Just my .02 Don Mei Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 2001
From: Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: ELT [was Heater (was firewall)]
The downside to the 406 mhz ELT is that no one else (pilots) will be able to listen for ELT signals. Dave Bill Ervin wrote: > > In Civil Air Patrol, we've been told 406 mhz is the new standard, 121.5 > will be phased out. How long is anybody's guess. There is currently at > least one SARSAT that receives the 406 signal. > > Reasons: less false activation's (store signs, movie marquees etc.) > Better signal, easier to track and locate and tone burst for > last known GPS location > > They are spendy right know, but what's it worth to have a better chance > to be found and rescued? > > Kevin is right, the FAR only requires an approved ELT, but if the 121.5s > are phased out in the future, you'll be buying the new version anyway!! > > Bill > RV6 Fus > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Cooler Fittings
Date: Jan 05, 2001
From: "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> > I can't speak for your specific oil cooler, etc.--but us 8 builder's got a > single sheet labeled "typical hoses/fittings" or something like that which > shows the various AN parts for various devices (oil cooler, carb, engine > fuel pump, gascolator, oil press., MP, etc.). I have something similar but it is to generic to follow blindly. I did speak with Gus at Vans just now and he said that the fitting on top of the spin on oil filter is usually used to measure oil temperature and is a 5/8 X 18 regular thread (NOT NPT). My plan is to use a straight steel NPT-AN adapter off the bottom oil outlet to a 90 degree swivel seal Earls end to steel braided hose to a straight swivel seal end to a 45 degree steel adapter into the oil cooler. Another 45 degree steel adapter out of the oil cooler to straight swivel seal end to steel braided hose to a straight swivel seal to a 45 degree steel adapter back into the engine. Ross ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Infinity Stick blue wire
Date: Jan 05, 2001
Wayne, You should have received installation instructions with the grip. If you didn't give Infinity a call and he will help you out and get you what you need. By the way, for our RV's you will need the adapter that Infinity offers. As far as the exit hole for the wires, most of us put it just above the pivot point of the stick. PeresonallyI placed mine on the side about an inch and a half above the pivot point. I made the hole large enough to install a small snap bushing to eliminate any chaffing. Mike Robertson RV-8A N809RS 12.9 Hours >From: "R. Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Infinity Stick blue wire >Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 21:14:45 -0500 > > >Listers: > >I am starting the installation of my Infinity grip. Where are people >drilling the exit hole for the blue (covered collection of all switch >wires) in the control column? How big a hole are you drilling? >A basic question: How does the darn thing (grip) attach to the control >stick?? >Thanks. > >Wayne Willuams >RV-8A > > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Allegro Avionics
Date: Jan 05, 2001
For all you M816 owners. How is the customer service from Allegro? I have emailed and called over the last two weeks and have received no answer. Now their telephone answering service is full and won't accept any calls. I am assuming this is a one person operation and he may be on vacation which is fine just as long as his service during the rest of the year is better. Ross ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 05, 2001
Subject: Re: Pressure testing oil and fuel hoses
> > > > > > Where did you get the jack? > > Harbor Freight probably carries cheap porta-power type hydraulic pumps Kevin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us>
Subject: ? about car stereo's
Date: Jan 05, 2001
I'm thinking of installing a car stereo/cd player in my 4. My questions are do I need one with a pre-amp output for the comm? I have a DRE 244 and I would guess that most panel mount stereo comms are the same, and what are builders using for a FM antenna? Are you having any problems with the CD player skipping because of the vibrations? Thanks, Carey Mills I purchased a "rubber ducky" auto FM antenna from a local auto parts store. It is about 18" long. I plan to mount it in the wing tip. I also purchased a Kenwood CD player with preamp outputs. I haven't installed either yet. so I am not sure , but I think both will work Ken Harrill RV-6, electrical ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: hs-814
Date: Jan 05, 2001
If anyone is in a position to be able to measure the center hole distance between the 2 outer most bolts that go through the 814 horizontal stab spar (or is it the 811 angle?) down into the fuselage I'd really appreciate you doing so. I just want to make sure I'm going to have enough width or instead re-order and retrim that part. thanks, lucky Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Fw: Myths For The Last Millennium
Date: Jan 05, 2001
I past on the info about maneuvering speed to Dick Durden who wrote an article about aviation myths. One had to do with maneuvering speed change due to weight. His contention was that the speed went down, not up due to a lighter plane stalling at a lower speed. This was the same message some one on the RV list pointed out. But you read his research and the FAA's determination. It is interesting, specially since the speed seems to be by definition a math computation. Cy Galley - editor, B-C Contact! Bellanca-Champion Club Visit us at: http://www.bellanca-championclub.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Durden" <RDurden(at)compuserve.com> Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 3:26 PM Subject: Myths For The Last Millennium > Cy, > > I checked with Charles White at MicroAerodynamics, a company that > makes VGs. He said that maneuvering speed does not go down as a result. I > don't know why, but he said the FAA agreed. I suspect that the wing has > not lost any integrity, and the fixed weight items such as the engine and > battery box are already built for a given Va, it's ok. > > All the best, > Rick ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 05, 2001
Subject: Re: Oil Cooler Fittings
WHERE ON VANS WEBSITE? I WOULD LIKE A COPY SCOTT ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 05, 2001
Subject: Re: Strobe Power Wire
In a message dated 1/5/01 2:11:26 AM Eastern Standard Time, nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes: > Do you think it is appropriate to mount this 2.1 lbs box on the belly skin? > > The Whelen manual mentions shielded wire but it doesn't spell out what > systems will need one. > > Thank-you, > Norman Hunger > RV6A Delta BC > I made a little tray which bolted to the center stringers on the forward belly skin. It sits right behind the battery. Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 05, 2001
Subject: Pressure Testing Hoses - Atlanta Area
I made a little pressure test rig that worked well. It uses a screw type jack and AN fittings. It can deliver 5000 psi if you want. Anyone who wants to test hoses and wants to drop by my hanger or house to do the testing (or to borrow the apparatus) is welcome to use it. If you're interested, drop me an e-mail off list. Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 2001
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: hs-814
> >If anyone is in a position to be able to measure the center hole distance >between the 2 outer most bolts that go through the 814 horizontal stab spar >(or is it the 811 angle?) down into the fuselage I'd really appreciate you >doing so. I just want to make sure I'm going to have enough width or >instead re-order and retrim that part. > >thanks, >lucky Mine ended up 7 9/16" apart. There is probably a bit of variation from fuselage to fuselage due to the normal stack up of tolerances. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy) Ottawa, Canada http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Pressure Testing Hoses - Atlanta Area
Date: Jan 05, 2001
For the last two Airventures, Aeroquip has been making up hoses at the convention for just the cost of fittings and hose. I think they pressure tested as well. Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh EAA Chapter 75 helping fellow aviators ----- Original Message ----- From: <KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 6:49 PM Subject: RV-List: Pressure Testing Hoses - Atlanta Area > > I made a little pressure test rig that worked well. It uses a screw type > jack and AN fittings. It can deliver 5000 psi if you want. Anyone who wants > to test hoses and wants to drop by my hanger or house to do the testing (or > to borrow the apparatus) is welcome to use it. > > If you're interested, drop me an e-mail off list. > > Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA > RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 2001
From: Bill Ervin <bjervin(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: ELT [was Heater (was firewall)]
Yep, that is going to be a problem. The theory is that it will be so accurate, that by just using the Sarsat, we will be able to go the triangulated position or the GPS burst position and walah! a find! This is just a theory mind you!! Bill RV6 Fus Spokane Dave Bristol wrote: > > > The downside to the 406 mhz ELT is that no one else (pilots) will be able > to listen for ELT signals. > > Dave > > Bill Ervin wrote: > > > > > In Civil Air Patrol, we've been told 406 mhz is the new standard, 121.5 > > will be phased out. How long is anybody's guess. There is currently at > > least one SARSAT that receives the 406 signal. > > > > Reasons: less false activation's (store signs, movie marquees etc.) > > Better signal, easier to track and locate and tone burst for > > last known GPS location > > > > They are spendy right know, but what's it worth to have a better chance > > to be found and rescued? > > > > Kevin is right, the FAR only requires an approved ELT, but if the 121.5s > > are phased out in the future, you'll be buying the new version anyway!! > > > > Bill > > RV6 Fus > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvmils(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 05, 2001
Subject: dropping fuel pressuer w/altitude?
At 50 hours I starting experiencing this anomaly. I have a high pressure engine driven pump on a 0360 with Bendix fuel injection, on the ground the pressure is steady at 25 psi. With the Airflow Performance boost on for take off and climb out, pressure is steady at 27 psi. With the boost off pressure is stable till around 6-7000 ft and than it starts to drop off, as low as 9 psi. I'm not experiencing any power loss, all lines are sleeve, the pump is cooled with blast tube and all was fine during the first 50 hours. Can someone please help? I've called the rebuilder of the pump and he says if it was a pump problem it would happen on the ground too. Blue Skies, Carey Mills RV4, 58hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PASSPAT(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 05, 2001
Subject: Re: dropping fuel pressuer w/altitude?
If you have electric gauges check your Grounds I had the same problems Pat N314EP ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 2001
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: ELT [was Heater (was firewall)]
TSO C126 seems to indicate that the 406 MHz ELTs will also transmit on 121.5, so I think they thought of this issue. See: http://www.faa.gov/avr/air/AIR100/tsocur/C126.doc Kevin > >Yep, that is going to be a problem. The theory is that it will be so >accurate, that by just using the Sarsat, we will be able to go the >triangulated position or the GPS burst position and walah! a find! > >This is just a theory mind you!! > >Bill >RV6 Fus >Spokane > >Dave Bristol wrote: >> >> >> The downside to the 406 mhz ELT is that no one else (pilots) will be able >> to listen for ELT signals. >> > > Dave >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 06, 2001
Subject: Re: ELT [was Heater (was firewall)]
I think 2008 is the year for the switch to happen. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net>
Subject: Pitot Static Poly-Flow hookup
Date: Jan 06, 2001
A couple of weeks ago there was some discussion about hooking up the AN5814 pitot/static tube to Poly-Flow tubing. I just finished the hardware portion of that hook up and I've posted some information on my web site, complete with part numbers. Let me know if you have any questions. http://www.mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/ Mike Nellis - RV-6 N699BM (res) Plainfield, IL Building Tanks http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BSivori(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 06, 2001
Subject: Re: Pitot Static Poly-Flow hookup
Could some one re-send or list the site for the photos ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: Strobe Power Wire
Date: Jan 06, 2001
> > > > Do you think it is appropriate to mount this 2.1 lbs box on the belly skin? > > > > The Whelen manual mentions shielded wire but it doesn't spell out what > > systems will need one. > > > > Thank-you, > > Norman Hunger > > RV6A Delta BC > > > > I made a little tray which bolted to the center stringers on the forward > belly skin. It sits right behind the battery. > > > Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA > RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth I mounted mine with three nut plates right on the top of the battery box. Quick to get at and real easy to take the battery lid off with the strobe box still mounted on it and best of all, the weight is right over the battery. Douglas G. Murray RV-6 Southern Alberta ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WHigg1170(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 06, 2001
Subject: Fuel pick up tube with screen from vans. Problem.
Hello I bought the pre made fuel pick up tube the one with the screen on the end from vans catalogue. I went to pre fit every thing up and I had a problem. I put the tank access cover on then the bulk head fitting went to attach the fuel tube pick up and at the bottom of the tank were the tube turns 90 degrees towards the back of the tank the tube hits the angle stiffener that's riveted to the bottom of the tank. The access cover already has the holes in it from the factory and can't be rotated. It looks like the tube from vans should have had a bigger radius bend and bent less than 90 it should have been more like the one on the plan. The tube is hard tubing not the soft stuff you can bend with your hands. I would have to cut more than half of the angle stiffener on the bottom of the tank not sure if that's what I want to do. The only thing I can see that will help me is that I have to blank tank access covers (no hole in them) they came with my capacitive fuel quantity sender. IM not using the float type. I just don't no if I change the location of the fuel bulkhead fitting if there would be a problem. Need advice RV6 Bill Pembroke Ma ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 06, 2001
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders?
I'd like to solicit some opinions on this before speaking to Van's on Monday. This morning I received some mail from Van's. It seems that my prop will be shipped in about two weeks and Van's is looking to receive the balance due. "What balance due is that?" says I, since I paid the 2000 price of $4650 in full back in September when I placed the order. It seems that they want to stick me with the $200 price increase on this prop for 2001. It's not my fault that they've taken this long to ship the prop. I've been paid in full for four months. Is this right? -- Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 #81125 (N118KB) fabricating panel www.egroups.com/files/bostonrvbuilders ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WPAerial(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 06, 2001
Subject: Re: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com>
Subject: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders?
Date: Jan 06, 2001
According to the letter I received with my last purchase, any 2000 order placed and paid in full before the price increase the first of the year would not receive an increase. If you already paid for it--you shouldn't have to pay more--unless they didn't charge you shipping charges or something like that. Greg -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Balch Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 10:59 AM Subject: RV-List: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders? I'd like to solicit some opinions on this before speaking to Van's on Monday. This morning I received some mail from Van's. It seems that my prop will be shipped in about two weeks and Van's is looking to receive the balance due. "What balance due is that?" says I, since I paid the 2000 price of $4650 in full back in September when I placed the order. It seems that they want to stick me with the $200 price increase on this prop for 2001. It's not my fault that they've taken this long to ship the prop. I've been paid in full for four months. Is this right? -- Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 #81125 (N118KB) fabricating panel www.egroups.com/files/bostonrvbuilders ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave" <dhrycauk(at)telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: MP3 player possibility.
Date: Jan 06, 2001
Paul; the thing with MP3's is that you could store over 150 songs on a single disk. cd changes would not happen too often. Dave Hrycauk RV-8 Ailerons, Fuse inventoried Lacombe, AB http://www.telusplanet.net/public/dhrycauk/index.htm ----- Original Message ----- From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)rmi.net> Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 7:34 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: MP3 player possibility. > > If you are going to put the MP3's on a cd, just convert and burn them in CD > audio format instead of MP3 and play it in your cd player... > > Paul Besing > RV-6A (197AB) Arizona > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing > Finish Kit (Still) > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 9:22 PM > Subject: RE: RV-List: MP3 player possibility. > > > > > > > > I intend to get an IPAQ with the control vision software soon, but I need > > something else in that realm as well. What I want is the smallest, > > simplest way of playing MP3's off a CD-ROM to feed into my intercom. 32 > > megs worth of MP3's are fine, but 600+ megs and cheap, exchangable media > is > > what I want. Anyone have a suggestion? > > > > > > try the neo 35 from ssi. it uses 3.5 inch standard hard drives, > and retails > > for about 219..effectively you could have a 20-30 gig MP3 player for 219 > > plus hd cost. if you get the remote display the neo will also act as a > > changer with mounting out of site... it comes with two trays one for the > > computer and one for the vehicle. when its in your computer it acts as an > > additional hd. > > > > http://www.think-box.com/neo35.html > > > > Steven DiNieri > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 06, 2001
From: earl fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders?
I think you are right Ken. You should get the prop for the price paid when ordered. I would call Van's and talk with them about it. I think they will do you right. Earl RV4 Ken Balch wrote: > > > I'd like to solicit some opinions on this before speaking to Van's on > Monday. > > This morning I received some mail from Van's. It seems that my prop > will be shipped in about two weeks and Van's is looking to receive the > balance due. "What balance due is that?" says I, since I paid the 2000 > price of $4650 in full back in September when I placed the order. It > seems that they want to stick me with the $200 price increase on this > prop for 2001. > > It's not my fault that they've taken this long to ship the prop. I've > been paid in full for four months. Is this right? > > -- > Regards, > Ken Balch > Ashland, MA > RV-8 #81125 (N118KB) > fabricating panel > www.egroups.com/files/bostonrvbuilders > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel pick up tube with screen from vans. Problem.
Date: Jan 06, 2001
Bill, That angle needs trimming inorder for the pickup to fit. The pickup needs to be right down in the corner as close to the tank skin and baffle as possible. If it is not, you will have fuel that cannot be reached by the pickup. I would just reach in with aviation snips and cut that angle about 1 inch from the root rib( dont't cut close to a rivet so a leak won't develope) and bend it down flat against the skin. You may even be able to work it back and forth until the tab breaks loose. Don't move the bulkhead fitting because you still won't be able to get the pickup into the corner where it needs to be. Don't forget the little clip that keeps the pickup from rotating while being tightened! That will deprive fuel too! Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6 fuselage ----- Original Message ----- From: <WHigg1170(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 11:54 AM Subject: RV-List: Fuel pick up tube with screen from vans. Problem. > > Hello I bought the pre made fuel pick up tube the one with the screen on the > end from vans catalogue. I went to pre fit every thing up and I had a > problem. I put the tank access cover on then the bulk head fitting went to > attach the fuel tube pick up and at the bottom of the tank were the tube > turns 90 degrees towards the back of the tank the tube hits the angle > stiffener that's riveted to the bottom of the tank. The access cover already > has the holes in it from the factory and can't be rotated. It looks like the > tube from vans should have had a bigger radius bend and bent less than 90 it > should have been more like the one on the plan. The tube is hard tubing not > the soft stuff you can bend with your hands. I would have to cut more than > half of the angle stiffener on the bottom of the tank not sure if that's what > I want to do. The only thing I can see that will help me is that I have to > blank tank access covers (no hole in them) they came with my capacitive fuel > quantity sender. IM not using the float type. I just don't no if I change the > location of the fuel bulkhead fitting if there would be a problem. > Need advice RV6 > Bill > Pembroke Ma > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders?
Date: Jan 06, 2001
Ken, If you used a credit card, Van's usually doesn't run the card until the item is shipped. I don't know if you are locked in to the price at the receipt of the order or you pay the going price at the time the card is ran??? Keep us posted, Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6 fuselage ----- Original Message ----- From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 12:59 PM Subject: RV-List: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders? > > I'd like to solicit some opinions on this before speaking to Van's on > Monday. > > This morning I received some mail from Van's. It seems that my prop > will be shipped in about two weeks and Van's is looking to receive the > balance due. "What balance due is that?" says I, since I paid the 2000 > price of $4650 in full back in September when I placed the order. It > seems that they want to stick me with the $200 price increase on this > prop for 2001. > > It's not my fault that they've taken this long to ship the prop. I've > been paid in full for four months. Is this right? > > -- > Regards, > Ken Balch > Ashland, MA > RV-8 #81125 (N118KB) > fabricating panel > www.egroups.com/files/bostonrvbuilders > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 06, 2001
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders?
Greg Tanner wrote: > > According to the letter I received with my last purchase, any 2000 order > placed and paid in full before the price increase the first of the year > would not receive an increase. If you already paid for it--you shouldn't > have to pay more--unless they didn't charge you shipping charges or > something like that. > > Greg Nope, not shipping charges. According to the letter I received, the price of the prop went from $4650 to $4850 and that's the $200 they want me to pay as a 'balance due'. Ken ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark Todd" <motodd(at)pol.net>
Subject: Myths For The Last Millennium-maneuvering speed
Date: Jan 06, 2001
There is no physical reason that the maneuvering speed should remain unchanged after installing VG's. I'll promise you that the 'cornering speed' changes dramatically. Yet, Standard Category STC'd VG kits normally don't require placarding or modifying the pilot operating handbood about the change in maneuvering speed. That's what Paul Robertson told me last year. This was an administrative decision by the FAA, nothing to do with aerodynamics. As far as I know, the VG kit from Microaerodynamics is from Paul's original work as one of the founding partners of that company. Did Mr. White (or any others at Microaerodynamics) do further aerodynamic research and development of the VG kits made specifically for the RV series after Paul left the company? I haven't had a chance to do a see side by side comparison of the VG installations to see if there's a noticable difference between Mr. White's kit and the Paul Robertson one marketed by Larry Vetterman. Mark If we have a debate about no VG's vs VG's, imagine the BS that could fly if we start comparing one VG system vs another!! Cy Galley - editor, B-C Contact! Bellanca-Champion Club Visit us at: http://www.bellanca-championclub.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Durden" <RDurden(at)compuserve.com> Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 3:26 PM Subject: Myths For The Last Millennium > Cy, > > I checked with Charles White at MicroAerodynamics, a company that > makes VGs. He said that maneuvering speed does not go down as a result. I > don't know why, but he said the FAA agreed. I suspect that the wing has > not lost any integrity, and the fixed weight items such as the engine and > battery box are already built for a given Va, it's ok. > > All the best, > Rick ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV8bldr" <RV8bldr(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders?
Date: Jan 06, 2001
Ken: I ordered my wing kit over the phone in Dec. to beat the price increase, gave a credit card number, and faxed the proper order form. I intended them to charge in full, but discovered that they only charged the 25% down amount. I called them Dec 29th and asked them to charge the remainder, which they did. It seems that, unless they are specifically told otherwise, they only bill the required 25% when the order is placed, then expect the remainder 15 or so days before your shipping date. Have you verified that they actually charged you the full amount when you placed your order? If I had not checked, I would be in the same boat as you... My past experiences with Van's have led me to believe that they would not try to "stick" you for anything, in fact quite the contrary. Maybe a call would resolve the issue in your favor. Good luck. Russ Christopher RV-8 Emp, wing coming in Feb!!! SoCal > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Balch > Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 10:59 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders? > > > I'd like to solicit some opinions on this before speaking to Van's on > Monday. > > This morning I received some mail from Van's. It seems that my prop > will be shipped in about two weeks and Van's is looking to receive the > balance due. "What balance due is that?" says I, since I paid the 2000 > price of $4650 in full back in September when I placed the order. It > seems that they want to stick me with the $200 price increase on this > prop for 2001. > > It's not my fault that they've taken this long to ship the prop. I've > been paid in full for four months. Is this right? > > -- > Regards, > Ken Balch > Ashland, MA > RV-8 #81125 (N118KB) > fabricating panel > www.egroups.com/files/bostonrvbuilders > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net>
Subject: Re: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders?
Date: Jan 06, 2001
Ken, I have been in this situation too and I ended up paying the higher amount. It seems that Van is given an allotment of units and he is at the mercy of his supplier. You should have been told that the price may change, but ... Hopefully others will take this into account when ordering the high priced items. Tom Barnes -6 O-360 C/S running out of money. ----- Original Message ----- From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 12:59 PM Subject: RV-List: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders? > > I'd like to solicit some opinions on this before speaking to Van's on > Monday. > > This morning I received some mail from Van's. It seems that my prop > will be shipped in about two weeks and Van's is looking to receive the > balance due. "What balance due is that?" says I, since I paid the 2000 > price of $4650 in full back in September when I placed the order. It > seems that they want to stick me with the $200 price increase on this > prop for 2001. > > It's not my fault that they've taken this long to ship the prop. I've > been paid in full for four months. Is this right? > > -- > Regards, > Ken Balch > Ashland, MA > RV-8 #81125 (N118KB) > fabricating panel > www.egroups.com/files/bostonrvbuilders > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 06, 2001
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders?
Hi Russ, Generally speaking, the 25% down situation you outlined is true. In the case of my prop, however, they were paid in full via certified check from Textron Financial. I financed a couple of the more expensive items on my plane, including the engine and prop. So, they've been holding the entire $4650, on which I've been making payments, since last September. I just checked and couldn't find any verbiage on Van's prop order form to the effect of actual prices being the ones current at time of shipment vs. time of order, to say nothing of cases such as mine where full payment actually accompanied the order. I sure hope they do the right thing. I'll keep everyone posted on Monday. Ken RV8bldr wrote: > > Ken: > I ordered my wing kit over the phone in Dec. to beat the price increase, > gave a credit card number, and faxed the proper order form. I intended them > to charge in full, but discovered that they only charged the 25% down > amount. I called them Dec 29th and asked them to charge the remainder, which > they did. It seems that, unless they are specifically told otherwise, they > only bill the required 25% when the order is placed, then expect the > remainder 15 or so days before your shipping date. Have you verified that > they actually charged you the full amount when you placed your order? If I > had not checked, I would be in the same boat as you... > My past experiences with Van's have led me to believe that they would not > try to "stick" you for anything, in fact quite the contrary. Maybe a call > would resolve the issue in your favor. Good luck. > > Russ Christopher > RV-8 Emp, wing coming in Feb!!! > SoCal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rv660wm(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 06, 2001
Subject: Re: sensenich prop 2600 rpm limit ?
In a message dated 1/6/01 2:33:54 PM Eastern Standard Time, WPAerial(at)AOL.COM writes: > How is a 2600 RPM limit on the Sensinich prop going to effect my flying and > what happens if I go past 2600 RPMs ? It is not wise to go past 2600RPM IMHO! Sensenich thinks that the limit may be bogus based on some faulty instrumentation. They are planning to retest the prop and "MIGHT" elimate the limit based on the outcome. I have offered them my airplane as a test vehicle if they wish to come here to S Fla and do the test. Ed Z has indicated an interest and maybe it will happen. How does it affect you flying? Probably saves your engine wear and tear. You can not demonstrate your airplane at low altitudes and high power levels during anything except climb attitudes are you will overspeed. At 9500 feet pressure altitude on a hot day, I still can not run wide open throttle at peak power mixture w/o exceeding the limit and I am using an 80inch pitch on a 6A. 2600 RPM gives TAS of about 190 mph. Bernie Kerr, 6A , SE Fla ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rv660wm(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 06, 2001
Subject: First long flying day experience in my 6A (long DNA, non building)
Now that my airplane is finally painted, my wife has lifted the quarantine of no leaving the state! :>) A neighbor was going to be stranded in Evergreen, Al (home of SERFI) and was looking at a 24 hour bus ride. He is a 6A QB'er, so offered to run up (501 miles) and pick him up. It was a clear, cold and windy day. About 34 degrees here when I left TCAP (Port St Lucie, FL) and predictions of 45 mph at 320 degrees were not friendly but at least it was suppose to last until we would be returning. I chose to stay low (4,500) since the forecast winds were worst the higher you went and the air was smooth as silk. It was exactly as predicted, at 65-70 % power, 7 gph, TAS of 182mph my ground speed was hovering 138-140 yuk. I had just installed Vans new 270 degree arc gages. The gages and my trusty EIS were indicating the same amount of fuel consumed at the end of two hours(15 gallons). The wind moderated as I flew over Tallahassee and turned slighty more west for Evergreen. We were on the field at 3.5 hours. It was the first time the NAVAID has been used to track the Garmin 195 for any distance. I had become disenchanted with it because it was not tracking right on top of the map line of the Garmin when I would try it momentarily on short trips. It turns out that it tracks a very straight line, but was offset about 1 mile from the map route line and the airplane held altitude better than I do once the trim was correct. Hands off for 15 minute stretches! KGZH was very friendly except for fuel prices ($2.40) compared to the $1.77 I am used to paying at KOBE. Added 20 gals. They loaned us a courtesy car to grab a sandwich in town and we were on the way back. My friend weighs 230 and he had a small amount of luggage. The plane flew fine at 1650 pounds gross weight in that cold dry air. 2.5 hours we were landing at TCAP and taxied into my back door hangar. 1000 miles in 6 hours and 40 gallons of fuel . Can't wait to try a long trip in a zero wind condition. Bernie Kerr, 6A, 70 hours of grin time, SE Fla ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com>
Subject: sensenich prop 2600 rpm limit ?
Date: Jan 06, 2001
Bernie, I assume you're running an O-360? If so, would the same problem occur with an O-320? I know the RPM limit still exists but with the smaller engine, would the likelyhood of exceeding the 2600 RPM limit be less? Greg Tanner -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rv660wm(at)AOL.COM Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 2:36 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: sensenich prop 2600 rpm limit ? In a message dated 1/6/01 2:33:54 PM Eastern Standard Time, WPAerial(at)AOL.COM writes: > How is a 2600 RPM limit on the Sensinich prop going to effect my flying and > what happens if I go past 2600 RPMs ? It is not wise to go past 2600RPM IMHO! Sensenich thinks that the limit may be bogus based on some faulty instrumentation. They are planning to retest the prop and "MIGHT" elimate the limit based on the outcome. I have offered them my airplane as a test vehicle if they wish to come here to S Fla and do the test. Ed Z has indicated an interest and maybe it will happen. How does it affect you flying? Probably saves your engine wear and tear. You can not demonstrate your airplane at low altitudes and high power levels during anything except climb attitudes are you will overspeed. At 9500 feet pressure altitude on a hot day, I still can not run wide open throttle at peak power mixture w/o exceeding the limit and I am using an 80inch pitch on a 6A. 2600 RPM gives TAS of about 190 mph. Bernie Kerr, 6A , SE Fla ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 06, 2001
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: sensenich prop 2600 rpm limit ?
> >How is a 2600 RPM limit on the Sensinich prop going to effect my flying and >what happens if I go past 2600 RPMs ? > >JERRY WILKEN Jerry, I can't speak to how the 2600 rpm limit will affect your flying, but I can shed a bit of light what happens if you go past 2600 rpm. That limit is there because Sensenich found that there were destructive vibrations in the prop blades at rpms greater than 2600. A single short excursion over 2600 rpm will not likely cause prop failure, but you need to understand that the prop might have a very short life if it was operated in that range for very long. I don't know how short the life would be, but it might be measured in hours, or perhaps even in minutes. The damage is cumulative, so six 10 second overspeeds are just as bad as one 60 second overspeed. The vibrations that we are worried about cannot be felt in the cockpit, as they are too high a frequency. You need an accurate tachometer to be sure you aren't inadvertently operating in this range. If a prop blade fails, the imblance often causes the engine mount to fail, which will cause an extreme aft CG condition probably leading to loss of control. Hartzell has a good brochure that discusses this issue (and others). It can be found at: http://www.hartzellprop.com/pdfs/KitplaneBroch.pdf The part that deals with vibration is on page 4. This brochure discusses constant speed props, but the laws of physics are the same for fixed pitch, so the discussion on vibration is relevant to the Sensenich props. Take care, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy) Ottawa, Canada http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 06, 2001
From: Richard Riley <richard(at)riley.net>
Subject: Re: MP3 player possibility.
I found the solution. Aiwa has an in dash unit, the CDC-MP3 http://www.aiwa.com/Catalog00/Products2.asp?id=94 that goes for about $300 at Crutchfield, but there're starting to be portables at $100 like the MPFit http://www.easybuy2000.com/store/?cat=mp3%20players&subcat=mpFit and the genecia http://www.computergeeks.com/mp3/portable/default.asp They let you play about 10 hours on a single disk. Very cool. Thanks for all the help. > >Paul; > >the thing with MP3's is that you could store over 150 songs on a single >disk. cd changes would not happen too often. > >Dave Hrycauk >RV-8 Ailerons, Fuse inventoried >Lacombe, AB >http://www.telusplanet.net/public/dhrycauk/index.htm > >----- Original Message ----- >From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)rmi.net> >To: >Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 7:34 AM >Subject: Re: RV-List: MP3 player possibility. > > >> >> If you are going to put the MP3's on a cd, just convert and burn them in >CD >> audio format instead of MP3 and play it in your cd player... >> >> Paul Besing >> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona >> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing >> Finish Kit (Still) >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> >> To: >> Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 9:22 PM >> Subject: RE: RV-List: MP3 player possibility. >> >> >> > >> > >> > I intend to get an IPAQ with the control vision software soon, but I >need >> > something else in that realm as well. What I want is the smallest, >> > simplest way of playing MP3's off a CD-ROM to feed into my intercom. 32 >> > megs worth of MP3's are fine, but 600+ megs and cheap, exchangable media >> is >> > what I want. Anyone have a suggestion? >> > >> > >> > try the neo 35 from ssi. it uses 3.5 inch standard hard drives, >> and retails >> > for about 219..effectively you could have a 20-30 gig MP3 player for 219 >> > plus hd cost. if you get the remote display the neo will also act as a >> > changer with mounting out of site... it comes with two trays one for the >> > computer and one for the vehicle. when its in your computer it acts as >an >> > additional hd. >> > >> > http://www.think-box.com/neo35.html >> > >> > Steven DiNieri >> > >> > >> >> > > Richard Riley Renaissance Composites 3025 Airport Ave Santa Monica, CA 90405 310.391.1943 www.berkut.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Huft" <widgeon92l(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Myths For The Last Millennium-maneuvering speed
Date: Jan 06, 2001
As far as Cessna 180s go, the two companies that offer VGs have said that the difference between the two is that one works at a higher angle of attack (lower airspeed) than the other. They each have arguments why thier's is better, but I wonder if the VGs really only work at higher angle of attacks (that is, for 1G stalls) and not at lower angles of attack (higher airspeeds) so that they do not lower the stall speed for a 4G stall, which is what matters in turbulence. I suspect that is why there is no change in placards for maneuvering and turbulent air penetration speeds when VGs are added. This would also be the basis for claims that cruise speeds are unaffected. John Huft, rv8qb 'half done' (har) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mark Todd Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 1:24 PM Subject: RV-List: Myths For The Last Millennium-maneuvering speed There is no physical reason that the maneuvering speed should remain unchanged after installing VG's. I'll promise you that the 'cornering speed' changes dramatically. Yet, Standard Category STC'd VG kits normally don't require placarding or modifying the pilot operating handbood about the change in maneuvering speed. That's what Paul Robertson told me last year. This was an administrative decision by the FAA, nothing to do with aerodynamics. As far as I know, the VG kit from Microaerodynamics is from Paul's original work as one of the founding partners of that company. Did Mr. White (or any others at Microaerodynamics) do further aerodynamic research and development of the VG kits made specifically for the RV series after Paul left the company? I haven't had a chance to do a see side by side comparison of the VG installations to see if there's a noticable difference between Mr. White's kit and the Paul Robertson one marketed by Larry Vetterman. Mark If we have a debate about no VG's vs VG's, imagine the BS that could fly if we start comparing one VG system vs another!! Cy Galley - editor, B-C Contact! Bellanca-Champion Club Visit us at: http://www.bellanca-championclub.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Durden" <RDurden(at)compuserve.com> Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 3:26 PM Subject: Myths For The Last Millennium > Cy, > > I checked with Charles White at MicroAerodynamics, a company that > makes VGs. He said that maneuvering speed does not go down as a result. I > don't know why, but he said the FAA agreed. I suspect that the wing has > not lost any integrity, and the fixed weight items such as the engine and > battery box are already built for a given Va, it's ok. > > All the best, > Rick ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: MP3 player possibility.
Date: Jan 06, 2001
I thought the whole reason for wanting MP-3 in an aircraft is the lack of a disk and the subsequent lack of skipping. Do they not make a large capacity portable that doesn't have any moving parts? Bill -4 wings ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Riley" <richard(at)riley.net> Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 6:51 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: MP3 player possibility. > > I found the solution. Aiwa has an in dash unit, the CDC-MP3 > http://www.aiwa.com/Catalog00/Products2.asp?id=94 > > that goes for about $300 at Crutchfield, but there're starting to be > portables at $100 like the MPFit > http://www.easybuy2000.com/store/?cat=mp3%20players&subcat=mpFit > and the genecia > http://www.computergeeks.com/mp3/portable/default.asp > > They let you play about 10 hours on a single disk. Very cool. Thanks for > all the help. > > > > > >Paul; > > > >the thing with MP3's is that you could store over 150 songs on a single > >disk. cd changes would not happen too often. > > > >Dave Hrycauk > >RV-8 Ailerons, Fuse inventoried > >Lacombe, AB > >http://www.telusplanet.net/public/dhrycauk/index.htm > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)rmi.net> > >To: > >Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 7:34 AM > >Subject: Re: RV-List: MP3 player possibility. > > > > > >> > >> If you are going to put the MP3's on a cd, just convert and burn them in > >CD > >> audio format instead of MP3 and play it in your cd player... > >> > >> Paul Besing > >> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona > >> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing > >> Finish Kit (Still) > >> > >> ----- Original Message ----- > >> From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> > >> To: > >> Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 9:22 PM > >> Subject: RE: RV-List: MP3 player possibility. > >> > >> > >> > > >> > > >> > I intend to get an IPAQ with the control vision software soon, but I > >need > >> > something else in that realm as well. What I want is the smallest, > >> > simplest way of playing MP3's off a CD-ROM to feed into my intercom. 32 > >> > megs worth of MP3's are fine, but 600+ megs and cheap, exchangable media > >> is > >> > what I want. Anyone have a suggestion? > >> > > >> > > >> > try the neo 35 from ssi. it uses 3.5 inch standard hard drives, > >> and retails > >> > for about 219..effectively you could have a 20-30 gig MP3 player for 219 > >> > plus hd cost. if you get the remote display the neo will also act as a > >> > changer with mounting out of site... it comes with two trays one for the > >> > computer and one for the vehicle. when its in your computer it acts as > >an > >> > additional hd. > >> > > >> > http://www.think-box.com/neo35.html > >> > > >> > Steven DiNieri > >> > > >> > > >> > >> > > > > > > Richard Riley > Renaissance Composites > 3025 Airport Ave > Santa Monica, CA 90405 > 310.391.1943 > www.berkut.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvmils(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 06, 2001
Subject: Re: pressure problem
In a message dated 1/6/2001 10:56:59 AM Central Standard Time, fairlea(at)execulink.com writes: > I will mount the sensor in a different location on the rocket I am building > now, > > Tom Martin > Hey Tom, I remounted the transducer today, flew it and right around 6-7K the pressure dropped. It went low as 10 psi and would hover between 12-20. Turn the boost on and all was well at 27 psi, with the boost back off it was up and down again. I than tried inverted flight and with in 3 sec the pressure stabilized at 25 psi, go figured that one. Any more idea's or do know of anyone who can help me trouble shoot this. Thanks, Carey Mills ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 06, 2001
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: sensenich prop 2600 rpm limit ?
Greg Tanner wrote: > > > Bernie, > I assume you're running an O-360? If so, would the same problem occur with > an O-320? I know the RPM limit still exists but with the smaller engine, > would the likelyhood of exceeding the 2600 RPM limit be less? > > Greg Tanner The Sensenich prop for the O-360 does not have the rpm restriction. The ability to spin a prop beyond 2600 rpm is dependent on the pitch of the prop, not just the horsepower of the engine. The engine in my RV-6 could spin the Sensenich prop beyond 2600 when it was a tired 150 hp engine. It is now a fresh 160, but since I had the prop repitched, it is less likely to exceed 1600 rpm. Sam Buchanan (RV-6, just back from a GREAT day of flying to Gwinnett County, GA, and points between here and there..... "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal ======================== > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rv660wm(at)AOL.COM > Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 2:36 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: sensenich prop 2600 rpm limit ? > > > In a message dated 1/6/01 2:33:54 PM Eastern Standard Time, WPAerial(at)AOL.COM > writes: > > > How is a 2600 RPM limit on the Sensinich prop going to effect my flying > and > > what happens if I go past 2600 RPMs ? > > It is not wise to go past 2600RPM IMHO! Sensenich thinks that the limit may > be bogus based on some faulty instrumentation. They are planning to retest > the prop and "MIGHT" elimate the limit based on the outcome. I have offered > them my airplane as a test vehicle if they wish to come here to S Fla and do > the test. Ed Z has indicated an interest and maybe it will happen. > > How does it affect you flying? Probably saves your engine wear and tear. > You > can not demonstrate your airplane at low altitudes and high power levels > during anything except climb attitudes are you will overspeed. At 9500 feet > pressure altitude on a hot day, I still can not run wide open throttle at > peak power mixture w/o exceeding the limit and I am using an 80inch pitch on > a 6A. 2600 RPM gives TAS of about 190 mph. > > Bernie Kerr, 6A , SE Fla ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Berryhill" <dwberryhill(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: MP3 player possibility.
Date: Jan 06, 2001
Yes, they do. The only drawback (at least for now) is that the memory modules are pretty expensive. Like all other electronic technology, they're sure to get cheaper as time goes by. Dave No RV (yet!) > > I thought the whole reason for wanting MP-3 in an aircraft is the lack of a > disk and the subsequent lack of skipping. Do they not make a large > capacity portable that doesn't have any moving parts? > > Bill > -4 wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders?
Date: Jan 06, 2001
Look at another way. Van priced selling you a prop with his cost in mind. Manufacturer raised the price. Now you really have maybe three options... 1. Get a refund as Van no longer can sell you a prop at what you paid. You still have to buy a prop and this might be the best option if you think you can beat Van's new price some where else. 2. Pay the increase because you can't do any better even at the new price. Remember, all sources probably have increased their price to reflect their new cost. 3. Negotiate with Van so that Van gets the same amount for a mark up as he did with the old price. This will be to your advantage if Van uses a percent mark up. If the markup from the prop maker is $200 then he is using a flat fee and you will not get any benefit. It is also possible that the prop maker increased the cost by more than $200 and Van already is giving you a break by absorbing some of the increase. Remember Van cannot sell you anything very long unless he makes a profit to cover his expenses and overhead. With out Van's making a profit so he can continue to support you, you and the rest of the RV builder lose; big time! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 1:20 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders? > > According to the letter I received with my last purchase, any 2000 order > placed and paid in full before the price increase the first of the year > would not receive an increase. If you already paid for it--you shouldn't > have to pay more--unless they didn't charge you shipping charges or > something like that. > > > Greg > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Balch > Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 10:59 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: 2001 price increases for 2000 orders? > > > I'd like to solicit some opinions on this before speaking to Van's on > Monday. > > This morning I received some mail from Van's. It seems that my prop > will be shipped in about two weeks and Van's is looking to receive the > balance due. "What balance due is that?" says I, since I paid the 2000 > price of $4650 in full back in September when I placed the order. It > seems that they want to stick me with the $200 price increase on this > prop for 2001. > > It's not my fault that they've taken this long to ship the prop. I've > been paid in full for four months. Is this right? > > -- > Regards, > Ken Balch > Ashland, MA > RV-8 #81125 (N118KB) > fabricating panel > www.egroups.com/files/bostonrvbuilders > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CW9371(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 06, 2001
Subject: Re: MP3 player possibility.
In a message dated 1/6/2001 7:14:46 PM Central Standard Time, billshook(at)mindspring.com writes: << I thought the whole reason for wanting MP-3 in an aircraft is the lack of a disk and the subsequent lack of skipping. Do they not make a large capacity portable that doesn't have any moving parts? Bill -4 wings >> No the whole reason for mp3 is that you can put over 100 songs on a cd and just carry 2 or 3 cds with you at all times. MP3 players only have 32 or 64 meg usually while a cd is 700 meg. ALso they dont offer fm radio. A well designed cd player with a buffer and a correct install should not skip in anything other then moderate to severe turbulence. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Myths For The Last Millennium-maneuvering speed
Date: Jan 06, 2001
Here is a response about VG's. The more I think about the FAA saying it doesn't change, the more skeptical I become. They do and say so many improbable things like the recent Aeronca Spar AD, that it makes one wonder.i.e... inspection holes where there has never been a problem and probably never will be. No inspection holes where there has been problems and will continue to be problems. Maybe It has something to do with being defined from the "clean stall speed" The VR stall speed is not the "clean" stall speed so the maneuvering speed remains the same. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Todd" <motodd(at)pol.net> Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 2:23 PM Subject: RV-List: Myths For The Last Millennium-maneuvering speed > > There is no physical reason that the maneuvering speed should remain > unchanged after installing VG's. I'll promise you that the 'cornering > speed' changes dramatically. Yet, Standard Category STC'd VG kits normally > don't require placarding or modifying the pilot operating handbood about the > change in maneuvering speed. That's what Paul Robertson told me last year. > This was an administrative decision by the FAA, nothing to do with > aerodynamics. > > As far as I know, the VG kit from Microaerodynamics is from Paul's original > work as one of the founding partners of that company. Did Mr. White (or any > others at Microaerodynamics) do further aerodynamic research and development > of the VG kits made specifically for the RV series after Paul left the > company? I haven't had a chance to do a see side by side comparison of > the VG installations to see if there's a noticable difference between Mr. > White's kit and the Paul Robertson one marketed by Larry Vetterman. > > Mark > > If we have a debate about no VG's vs VG's, imagine the BS that could fly if > we start comparing one VG system vs another!! > > > Cy Galley - editor, B-C Contact! > Bellanca-Champion Club > Visit us at: http://www.bellanca-championclub.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Rick Durden" <RDurden(at)compuserve.com> > Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 3:26 PM > Subject: Myths For The Last Millennium > > > > Cy, > > > > I checked with Charles White at MicroAerodynamics, a company that > > makes VGs. He said that maneuvering speed does not go down as a result. > I > > don't know why, but he said the FAA agreed. I suspect that the wing has > > not lost any integrity, and the fixed weight items such as the engine and > > battery box are already built for a given Va, it's ok. > > > > All the best, > > Rick > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: sensenich prop 2600 rpm limit ?
Date: Jan 06, 2001
I hope it will exceed 1600!!!! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 7:50 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: sensenich prop 2600 rpm limit ? > > > Greg Tanner wrote: > > > > > > Bernie, > > I assume you're running an O-360? If so, would the same problem occur with > > an O-320? I know the RPM limit still exists but with the smaller engine, > > would the likelyhood of exceeding the 2600 RPM limit be less? > > > > Greg Tanner > > > The Sensenich prop for the O-360 does not have the rpm restriction. > > The ability to spin a prop beyond 2600 rpm is dependent on the pitch of > the prop, not just the horsepower of the engine. > > The engine in my RV-6 could spin the Sensenich prop beyond 2600 when it > was a tired 150 hp engine. It is now a fresh 160, but since I had the > prop repitched, it is less likely to exceed 1600 rpm. > > Sam Buchanan (RV-6, just back from a GREAT day of flying to Gwinnett > County, GA, and points between here and there..... > > "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal > > ======================== > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rv660wm(at)AOL.COM > > Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 2:36 PM > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: Re: RV-List: sensenich prop 2600 rpm limit ? > > > > > > In a message dated 1/6/01 2:33:54 PM Eastern Standard Time, WPAerial(at)AOL.COM > > writes: > > > > > How is a 2600 RPM limit on the Sensinich prop going to effect my flying


December 31, 2000 - January 06, 2001

RV-Archive.digest.vol-jy