RV-Archive.digest.vol-ka
January 12, 2001 - January 18, 2001
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder position light/RV-8 |
In a message dated 1/11/01 7:33:05 AM Pacific Standard Time,
edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com writes:
<< I have searched the archives for suggestions on how to pass the wiring for
my
strobe/position light mounted on the rudder faring through the last bulkhead
and into the rudder faring. I found no hits to my search. Does anyone
have...a good description on how to penetrate the
bulkhead, how what kind of connectors to use and where to place them, and
how you secure the wiring so it won't interfere with the rudder movement and
so the rudder can be removed without a lot of disassembly. I'm using the
Whelen single power supply and the wire is a 5 wire coax like material. >>
Ed-
This is what I did. I installed a dual row 12 position terminal block on top
of the aft fuselage plate just forward of those vertical bars that attach the
horizontal stabilizer aft spar. I terminated all of the strobe and position
light wiring to six of the terminals and all of the elevator trim servo
wiring to five terminals. One spare, okay, the fuselage wiring is complete.
The wiring in the rudder exits near the front lip of the fiberglass bottom.
It helps if the wiring is just the shielded three conductor Belden cable that
Whelen gives you and two other lengths of hookup wire. I placed a 1 ft
length of "Chinese hand cuff" harness sheathing (nylon webbing available at
electronics stores) over all these wires and anchored the whole enchilada
using an Adel clamp to the inside of the fiberglass bottom. Measure up a
goodly distance up on the vertical stab bulkhead (this vertical rise is to
absorb the torsional motion of the cabling and effectively decouple any other
bending forces acting on the cable as the rudder moves back and forth). Go a
little off from center and drill a whole large enough for a snap plug grommet
and the wiring. Install the rudder while feeding the wiring thru this hole
and mount the rudder. Terminate the wiring to the terminal block and secure
as needed.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First long flying day experience |
in...
In a message dated 1/11/01 3:14:30 PM Eastern Standard Time,
chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net writes:
> Subj: Re: Cheap fuel at Okochobee was RV-List: First long flying day
> experience in my 6A (long DNA, non buildi...
> Date: 1/11/01 3:14:30 PM Eastern Standard Time
> From: chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net (Charlie Kuss)
> Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> Reply-to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>
> Bernie & listers,
> A possible explanation is that this FBO is part of the Seminole or
> Mikisoukie
> Indian Nations. That would exempt them from having to pay ALL fuel taxes.
> The
> same thing applies to liquor & cigarettes purchased on indian land. What
do
> you
> think Bernie?
> Charlie Kuss
>
> > The resturuant will be open at KOBE in July. That's what they said last
> > Saturday when I was in line for fuel.
> >
> > Rick
> >
> >
> > > > I find it hard to believe he can sell it for that it cost him 2.15
to
> > >buy
> > > > it. Must have a hugh storage tank and bought it cheap.
> > >
> > >
> > >You got me, but he sells a ton of gas. I've seen the tanker there
several
> > >times. They sell gas to a lot of folks from all over south florida who
> fly
> > >there just to get gas. I've had to wait for 7 airplanes late on a pretty
> > >Sunday afternoon. If they had a resturant, you would probablly always
> have
> > >to
> > >wait :>)
> > >
Charlie,
I think you have hit the nail on the head because there is a large display of
the Indian's plans for a gambling casino on lake Okeechobee a short distance
from there. What ever the reason I am glad it is so convenient to me!
Bernie Kerr, 6A flying, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: No more medicals |
>
>I too am interested in how far off we are IF the new sportplane license
comes
>though. The 6, ummmmm stall is higher but the max load could be fudged?
>thoughts
>guys?
>
I think, for right now, a Cub or Champ type airplane is ideal to meet these
rules for a low and slow airplane and a Sonex would be great for the higher
performance regime. All of these are real airplanes that would be fun and
would meet the rules. Current RVs are just too far out of the envelope, but
I wonder what would happen if Van put his mind to the problem starting with
a clean sheet of paper.
If only Van's wasn't tied up with the RV-10!
No medical really appeals to me.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Teflon Fuel Lines |
Because to get 100 octane, the oil companies are using aromatics such as
toluene which will attack and swell rubber, it will also remove paint from
the side of your airplane.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
EAA Chapter 75 helping fellow aviators
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 10:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: Teflon Fuel Lines
>
> After much expense and headache, I finally completed the fuel line system
> that I posted a few days ago. While browsing the archives, I ran across
one
> post that mentioned that Lycoming recommends Teflon hose for fuel lines.
I
> used steel braided synthetic rubber with the understanding that these need
> to be checked regularly and perhaps replaced every five years. I e-mailed
> the Lycoming rep and his reply was "In the interest of safety, Lycoming
> recommends the use of Teflon, stainless
> steel braided fuel hose. Synthetic rubber not recommended."
>
> I have written him back asking "Why?"
>
> I put that question to the List....Why?
>
> Ross
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | 8130.2d mofidication to Operating Limitations? |
I recently submitted to local FSDO my request to have my operating
limitations modified to conform to 8130.2D. This change permits you to
make a major mod and documented in log book and fly a 5 hour test program
establishing new Vx, Vy and stall speeds with out an FAA/DAR inspection..
Has anyone applied and received that modification to their operating
limitations??
Thanks
Ed Anderson
Matthews, NC
RV-6A N494BW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Teflon Fuel Lines |
In a message dated 1/11/01 9:31:26 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dwberryhill(at)home.com writes:
<< "In the interest of safety, Lycoming
> recommends the use of Teflon, stainless
> steel braided fuel hose. Synthetic rubber not recommended."
>
> I have written him back asking "Why?"
>
> I put that question to the List....Why?
>
> Ross
In the "18 Years of RV-Ator" book, there is mention of some rubber lined,
stainless steel braided fuel hose deteriorating from Avgas but it doesn't
say if it was synthetic or natural rubber. The type mentioned is Aeroquip
601/303. Perhaps this is the reason. >>
By contrast the Aeroquip AQP racing hose has a good history.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: auto starters on O-320 |
01/12/2001 09:40:55
I am running the Nissan one from Mark Landrol (See EAA ad. pages). I've
also seen a cast aluimun adapter for a Toyota starter from Spruce. I
purchased mine before skytech came out with the one tha Vans and all the
OEM's use. My unit works very well & I am happy with it.
Andrew Larkin
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: RV-List: auto
starters on O-320
ronics.com
01/11/2001 10:36 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
Has anyone had any luck using an auto (Nissan, Toyota,
etc) starter on an O-320? If so, which part number
did you use and is there a special bracket to use to
attach it?
Thanks,
Andrew Larkin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NACA duct template? |
01/12/2001 09:41:54
I xeroxed my vent (at work where you can lift the cover and xerox big
books or computer listings). I turned the contrast up or down and just
xeroxed the NACA inlet. From the paper immage you can pencil in the flange
area and now you have a perfect template. I still traced the template on to
a minnalla folder (raided office supply cabinet) just to be sure the
template was accurate. A 5 minute drill and I was done. BTW I installed the
NACA vents on the bottom of the wings ( like the RV-8 ) on my RV-4....
"Bill Shook"
m> cc:
Sent by: Subject: RV-List: NACA
duct template?
owner-rv-list-server@mat
ronics.com
01/11/2001 04:46 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
Ok, I very nearly screwed the proverbial pooch this time. Bottom skin
already riveted on...was going to cut the hole for the NACA duct. Vans
didn't include a template for the vent cutout in the kit I bought (RV-4
nothing is already cut) so I traced the inside of the plastic duct and was
going to cut the hole that size. Hmmm, thinks I....better call Van's and
make sure. Yikes...almost made a big boo boo. SO...moral is, I need a
template for that hole....anyone have one they could fax me? (407 678
4836)
Or email, or post on a website? Van's said...uh, well...not sure we have
any of those...I'll look and get back to you. I won't hold my breath.
Bill
-4 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
John -
First, let me say I'm not trying to be condescending or a smart a** with my
reply, only trying to debate the topic. It really sounds like you have set
up your own sovereign nation set up there! You're not planning to regulate
the use of leaded fuel as well, I hope? :) I'm not a lawyer, but it seems
difficult to understand how an individual can create rules which go beyond
FAR's. Sorry if I missed it, but it sounds like there are uncontrolled
airports you operate. Radios are still optional (though, I agree they help
tremendously). How about transponders, anti-collision beacons and ELT's?
Those might make things even more safe. Where do we draw the line? None
are required for UL's, as I understand the law.
I appreciate the discussion, John, but I disagree with your intent to drive
out the ultralights. We all have to be accountable for our own actions and
there's no perfectly safe world. Many of the guys flying the ultralights
are a little off the beaten path - with respect to the GA and professional
pilots. The UL pilots pay federal taxes just like us... why should they be
descriminated against.
Maybe you need some help from the FAA if the UL guys are breaking the
law/being unsafe. Take some video or try and get an FAA employee to drop by
periodically. If you have heavy GA/corporate jets flying in, I would think
you could get some response from the FAA.
Maybe I'll come visit your airports sometime. I'd like to fly over the
NC/SC/VA area - seems like a nice place the times I've been there.
Bryan Jones
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Teflon Fuel Lines |
> toluene which will attack and swell rubber>
> Cy Galley
But I am using synthetic rubber.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Teflon Fuel Lines |
Vanremog(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 1/11/01 9:31:26 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> dwberryhill(at)home.com writes:
>
> << "In the interest of safety, Lycoming
> > recommends the use of Teflon, stainless
> > steel braided fuel hose. Synthetic rubber not recommended."
> >
> > I have written him back asking "Why?"
> >
> > I put that question to the List....Why?
> >
> > Ross
>
> In the "18 Years of RV-Ator" book, there is mention of some rubber lined,
> stainless steel braided fuel hose deteriorating from Avgas but it doesn't
> say if it was synthetic or natural rubber. The type mentioned is Aeroquip
> 601/303. Perhaps this is the reason. >>
>
> By contrast the Aeroquip AQP racing hose has a good history.
>
I asked the Aeroquip rep at Oshkosh last year what the difference was
between AE-701 and the AQP racing hose. Hmm, said he, AQP is the polimer
we use in the 701 hose. Just food for thought
--
Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado
RV-6A N99PZ Flying
Engine: Aerosport Power O-360-A1A
Prop: Sensenich 72FM8S9-1-83
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Altimeter Static Tubing |
Maybe a dum idea, use proseal to stick the tube to the longeron.
stick the tube on top in the corner of the skin/longeron and dab proseal
on it every so often. secure th tubing with masking tape till proseal is
dry.
Gert
Norman Hunger wrote:
>
>
> > I am building an RV-8 and am installing the flush static ports purchased
> > from Van's. I have a question on securing the tubing along the longeron
> as
> > in goes toward the baggage compartment. I was thinking of using nylon
> wraps
> > and drilling small holes in longeron about every 8 inches or so. Does
> > anyone have a better suggestion.
>
> I try to keep the extra holes in the longerons to a minimum. They are the
> only beefy structure that go from the firewall to the tail. I put tie strap
> holes in the J-stringers instead. The tubing gets strapped every 3-4 inches.
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A 2100 hours construction. Canopy frame but no bubble, nothing forward of
> firewall, wiring 50%, no landing gear, oh this is getting
> depressing..........
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ultralights... |
I can tell you if I'm flying into a small runway airport in a business jet
and the airport manager was doing anything at all to discourage
ultralights....I would buy him lunch on a daily basis.
Just my opinion here, but if ultralights can fly out of their backyards,
then why would they feel it necessary to hang out at a full fledged airport
where airplanes that can not fly out of a pasture NEED to land. I've seen
ultralights do some pretty stupid things...and since they do NOT know any
better (for the most part) they DO create an unnecessary hazard at an
airport. It is their right to fly, but when their rights endanger me...they
lose them. There are gliders based at an airport I used to fly jumpers at
and since they do require training we never had a problem with them. We
would take off and land on runways they were using...sometimes while they
were still on them and we would all just wave at each other. We were
turning a midfield base to final in the twin otter once while a glider was
landing at the other end.....he had not used the radio to tell us he was
there and we apparently didn't see him. Anyway, just as we're about to
throttle up for a go around, he calls in......'Twin Otter...don't sweat
it..there is room for two of us on here' We landed on the right side, he
landed on the left side, we went past each other at a good clip...both
smiling like we just picked up the prom queen for a date. He knew what to
do, so did we...we lived together in peace and harmony. The end. :-)
Point being, if they do not have training they have no business mixing with
those that need that airport and do know the proper way to use it. If an
airport manager can find a way to discourage them from using the airport
UNLESS they get the proper training and gear (radios).....well, you just
gotta love that guy.
Bill
-4 wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jones, Bryan D." <bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 10:03 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Ultralights...
<bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
>
> John -
>
> First, let me say I'm not trying to be condescending or a smart a** with
my
> reply, only trying to debate the topic. It really sounds like you have
set
> up your own sovereign nation set up there! You're not planning to
regulate
> the use of leaded fuel as well, I hope? :) I'm not a lawyer, but it
seems
> difficult to understand how an individual can create rules which go beyond
> FAR's. Sorry if I missed it, but it sounds like there are uncontrolled
> airports you operate. Radios are still optional (though, I agree they
help
> tremendously). How about transponders, anti-collision beacons and ELT's?
> Those might make things even more safe. Where do we draw the line? None
> are required for UL's, as I understand the law.
>
> I appreciate the discussion, John, but I disagree with your intent to
drive
> out the ultralights. We all have to be accountable for our own actions
and
> there's no perfectly safe world. Many of the guys flying the ultralights
> are a little off the beaten path - with respect to the GA and professional
> pilots. The UL pilots pay federal taxes just like us... why should they
be
> descriminated against.
>
> Maybe you need some help from the FAA if the UL guys are breaking the
> law/being unsafe. Take some video or try and get an FAA employee to drop
by
> periodically. If you have heavy GA/corporate jets flying in, I would
think
> you could get some response from the FAA.
>
> Maybe I'll come visit your airports sometime. I'd like to fly over the
> NC/SC/VA area - seems like a nice place the times I've been there.
>
> Bryan Jones
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Teflon Fuel Lines |
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
01/12/2001 10:28:11 AM
> << "In the interest of safety, Lycoming
> > recommends the use of Teflon, stainless
> > steel braided fuel hose. Synthetic rubber not recommended."
> >
> > I have written him back asking "Why?"
> >
> > I put that question to the List....Why?
> >
> > Ross
>
> In the "18 Years of RV-Ator" book, there is mention of some rubber
lined,
> stainless steel braided fuel hose deteriorating from Avgas but it
doesn't
> say if it was synthetic or natural rubber. The type mentioned is
Aeroquip
> 601/303. Perhaps this is the reason. >>
>
> By contrast the Aeroquip AQP racing hose has a good history.
>
Be careful switching to Teflon hose, especially if you plan on making it up
yourself. I understand that Van's does not recommend Teflon fuel lines
because of their service history. Apparently once kinked they are so
brittle that they break internally and this break can not be seen from the
outside. The other problem being that the stainless braid is a natural
vibrating hack saw that will cut through anything it comes in contact with
including cowling and other hoses if not properly fire sleeved.
Please put down your guns... I'm not trashing Teflon, just telling folks
that plan on using it and building up the hoses themselves to be careful
and make sure that they take the necessary precautions. I'm sure that the
premade stuff supplied by any of the popular venders will work just fine.
BTW I'm using 601. Same stuff used on the other GA aircraft I have been
using off and on for the last 25 years.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( FWF )
O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
http://www.homestead.com/RV8A/files/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV Very good GPS web site with all kind of GPS links |
01/12/2001 11:41:41
http://joe.mehaffey.com/ is a real nice site with GPS links and a very
good site for GPS. I found links for updating my handheld there and tons of
other useful gps data
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
I have a Saber prop extension and the bolts are too short. They have
since gone out of business, and I need to find some longer bolts.
Anyone know of a realitvely low cost supplier of prop bolts?
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Teflon Fuel Lines |
Just wanted to add some more information on Teflon hoses. Aeroquip put out
a service bulletin (Bulletin AA135), I believe it was sometime in 1993, that
identified 601 hose as being a problem with low-lead aviation gasoline.
They called it "degradation over time." They "strongly recommended" going
to Teflon hose assemblies. Furthermore Aeroquip says that if you chose to
replace your 601 hoses with rubber hoses, they strongly recommend regular,
periodic inspection and replacement of hoses after approximately 2 years
installation time. There is no life limit on Teflon hoses, apparently.
I replaced all my 601 hoses with Teflon on my -4 around that time. The only
problem I encountered is that the bending radius of the teflon is a lot less
than rubber hoses and you have to be very, very careful not to kink them
when installing. You may even have to change the fittings if your hose
radius is too small. Otherwise, haven't had any problems since 1993. I had
mine made up with fire sleeve.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hrs. TT
O-320, Hartzell C/S
RV-6, Fuselage
O-360, Hartzell C/S
pat_hatch(at)msn.com
>
> > << "In the interest of safety, Lycoming
> > > recommends the use of Teflon, stainless
> > > steel braided fuel hose. Synthetic rubber not recommended."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Teflon Fuel Lines |
Yes, I am using synthetic paint, but it still softens and causes it to
deteriorate.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 9:13 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Teflon Fuel Lines
>
> > toluene which will attack and swell rubber>
> > Cy Galley
>
> But I am using synthetic rubber.
>
> Ross
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "<Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com> |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with ESMTP id
for" ;
Fri,
12 Jan 2001 12:18:23.-0500(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: NACA duct template? |
01/12/2001 12:14:32 PM
How did you run the duct tubes, I'm assuming you have to cross the spar at
some point to get the hose to the vents on your panel. Thats all thats
keeping me from doing the same.
Thanks in advance
ERic
pcondon(at)csc.com@matronics.com on 01/12/2001 09:25:14 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: NACA duct template?
I xeroxed my vent (at work where you can lift the cover and xerox big
books or computer listings). I turned the contrast up or down and just
xeroxed the NACA inlet. From the paper immage you can pencil in the flange
area and now you have a perfect template. I still traced the template on to
a minnalla folder (raided office supply cabinet) just to be sure the
template was accurate. A 5 minute drill and I was done. BTW I installed the
NACA vents on the bottom of the wings ( like the RV-8 ) on my RV-4....
"Bill Shook"
m> cc:
Sent by: Subject: RV-List:
NACA duct template?
owner-rv-list-server@mat
ronics.com
01/11/2001 04:46 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
Ok, I very nearly screwed the proverbial pooch this time. Bottom skin
already riveted on...was going to cut the hole for the NACA duct. Vans
didn't include a template for the vent cutout in the kit I bought (RV-4
nothing is already cut) so I traced the inside of the plastic duct and was
going to cut the hole that size. Hmmm, thinks I....better call Van's and
make sure. Yikes...almost made a big boo boo. SO...moral is, I need a
template for that hole....anyone have one they could fax me? (407 678
4836)
Or email, or post on a website? Van's said...uh, well...not sure we have
any of those...I'll look and get back to you. I won't hold my breath.
Bill
-4 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NACA duct template? |
The NACA I just installed is for air to the passenger...I assume the pilot
gets his from the fuselage.....forward of the spar. BUT, I'm not there
yet.. :-(
Bill
-4 wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "<Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com> (Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with
ESMTP id for"
; ; <12 Jan 2001 12:18:23.-0500(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 12:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: NACA duct template?
Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with ESMTP id
for ;
>
>
> How did you run the duct tubes, I'm assuming you have to cross the spar at
> some point to get the hose to the vents on your panel. Thats all thats
> keeping me from doing the same.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> ERic
>
>
> pcondon(at)csc.com@matronics.com on 01/12/2001 09:25:14 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> cc:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: NACA duct template?
>
>
> I xeroxed my vent (at work where you can lift the cover and xerox big
> books or computer listings). I turned the contrast up or down and just
> xeroxed the NACA inlet. From the paper immage you can pencil in the flange
> area and now you have a perfect template. I still traced the template on
to
> a minnalla folder (raided office supply cabinet) just to be sure the
> template was accurate. A 5 minute drill and I was done. BTW I installed
the
> NACA vents on the bottom of the wings ( like the RV-8 ) on my RV-4....
>
>
> "Bill Shook"
>
> m> cc:
> Sent by: Subject: RV-List:
> NACA duct template?
> owner-rv-list-server@mat
> ronics.com
>
>
> 01/11/2001 04:46 PM
> Please respond to
> rv-list
>
>
> Ok, I very nearly screwed the proverbial pooch this time. Bottom skin
> already riveted on...was going to cut the hole for the NACA duct. Vans
> didn't include a template for the vent cutout in the kit I bought (RV-4
> nothing is already cut) so I traced the inside of the plastic duct and was
> going to cut the hole that size. Hmmm, thinks I....better call Van's and
> make sure. Yikes...almost made a big boo boo. SO...moral is, I need a
> template for that hole....anyone have one they could fax me? (407 678
> 4836)
> Or email, or post on a website? Van's said...uh, well...not sure we have
> any of those...I'll look and get back to you. I won't hold my breath.
>
> Bill
> -4 wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Win 9x 4.90; en-US; m18) Gecko/20001108 Netscape6/6.0
| Subject: | Re: Radio Requirements |
Vanremog(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> In a message dated 1/10/01 3:05:17 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> gtanner(at)bendcable.com writes:
>
> << I hear ya there Scott. I almost took out an ultra-light at Lodi last year.
> They didn't even have a radio. >>
>
> This is a common problem with ultralights and other light aircraft. Despite
> the low cost of radios these days, the number of craft operating without them
> is appalling. OSH even accepts NORDO aircraft. With all the handhelds now
> available this is idiocy.
>
> When I flew ultralights in the mid '80s, we operated out of the, now closed,
> Antioch, CA airport and were trained from day one to fit in with GA traffic.
> Most of our club members used proper communications, however, among UL fliers
> we were the exceptions. This was/is partly due to the high noise
> environment. Those of us with radios used the 360 channel STS handhelds of
> the time and interfaced to headset equipped helmets made by Ultra Pro. It
> just made sense.
>
> These helmets are still readily available from ACS at modest cost and IMO
> should be required equipment for ultralights per FAR Part 103. For other
> aircraft headsets are very cheap and work well with most handhelds. This is
> not too much to ask for the safety of all. Isn't it time that all vehicles
> that fly have radios?
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
Or better yet, isn't it time for all the little airplanes to leave the
crowded skies to the airlines & stop endangering all the people on the
ground? Or at least all those dangerous things built in somebody's
garage....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Building time WAS Half-way point |
I vote for when the sheet metal is done as half way. Whatever, it does
take a lot of time to do engine, cowl, baffles and finish the canopy.
These four components need more design, documentation, skill, planning and
time than anything else.
I went from following explicit instructions (sheetmetal) to inventor in an
area where you have zero knowledge. I attached the cowl per Van's
instructions (don't do this!) and took forever trimming on the supposedly
ready to go baffle kit.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK - Certificated and ready to fly!
Oh, and make changes and adjustments advised by more experienced builders
and others who stop by to inspect your work. Try to have these little
inspections and listen, even if they bug you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NACA duct template? |
01/12/2001 03:29:15 PM
Bith left & right Vans vent (eyeball vents) were mounted just forward of
the flap rods right below the floor . The pilot can reach both vents buy
reaching down & the co-pilot can reach both vents too. I normally shoot the
air up and it circulates around the canopy and delivers fresh air for both
persons and can be controlled by both persons if need be. Works great.
"Bill Shook"
m> cc:
Sent by: Subject: Re: RV-List: NACA
duct template?
owner-rv-list-server@mat
ronics.com
01/12/2001 01:37 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
The NACA I just installed is for air to the passenger...I assume the pilot
gets his from the fuselage.....forward of the spar. BUT, I'm not there
yet.. :-(
Bill
-4 wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "<Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com> (Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with
ESMTP id for"
; ; <12 Jan 2001 12:18:23.-0500(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 12:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: NACA duct template?
Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with ESMTP id
for ;
>
>
> How did you run the duct tubes, I'm assuming you have to cross the spar
at
> some point to get the hose to the vents on your panel. Thats all thats
> keeping me from doing the same.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> ERic
>
>
> pcondon(at)csc.com@matronics.com on 01/12/2001 09:25:14 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> cc:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: NACA duct template?
>
>
> I xeroxed my vent (at work where you can lift the cover and xerox big
> books or computer listings). I turned the contrast up or down and just
> xeroxed the NACA inlet. From the paper immage you can pencil in the
flange
> area and now you have a perfect template. I still traced the template on
to
> a minnalla folder (raided office supply cabinet) just to be sure the
> template was accurate. A 5 minute drill and I was done. BTW I installed
the
> NACA vents on the bottom of the wings ( like the RV-8 ) on my RV-4....
>
>
> "Bill Shook"
>
> m> cc:
> Sent by: Subject: RV-List:
> NACA duct template?
> owner-rv-list-server@mat
> ronics.com
>
>
> 01/11/2001 04:46 PM
> Please respond to
> rv-list
>
>
> Ok, I very nearly screwed the proverbial pooch this time. Bottom skin
> already riveted on...was going to cut the hole for the NACA duct. Vans
> didn't include a template for the vent cutout in the kit I bought (RV-4
> nothing is already cut) so I traced the inside of the plastic duct and
was
> going to cut the hole that size. Hmmm, thinks I....better call Van's and
> make sure. Yikes...almost made a big boo boo. SO...moral is, I need a
> template for that hole....anyone have one they could fax me? (407 678
> 4836)
> Or email, or post on a website? Van's said...uh, well...not sure we
have
> any of those...I'll look and get back to you. I won't hold my breath.
>
> Bill
> -4 wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel lines and teflon |
I thought I posted this a couple of days ago but it appears I only sent it
to a few individuals
Subject: fuel lines
> what RV mod are you working on?..I am just starting on the fuel system
> of my 0320 carb powered RV8A...if you have a sketch you can send me of
> where the lines go, I would like very much to have it..the plans to me
> are kind of confusing...thanks...jolly in aurora
>
RV6A Carb O360 A1A
Earls Fittings...contact Richard Walhush at 800-886-3275. He sell at
wholesale so you save 40 percent. First you buy a catalog which gets
reimbursed with your first purchase.
I used perform-o-flex hose (steel braided with steel insert around synthetic
rubber) and swivel seal fittings. AN is female NPT is male.
Fuel Tank
straight hose end (AN) 800106
hose 400060
straight hose end (NPT) 820106
Fuel selector
aluminum tube with female #6 AN on each end
90 elbow 982206
gasolator
90 elbow 982206
short aluminum tube with female #6 AN on each end
Facet pump
Longer aluminum tube with female #6 AN on each end
Bulkhead T 980406
at 90 degree from T
Reducer to 1/8"NPT 916162
Primer solenoid
At straight from T
90 hose end (AN) 809108
hose 400060
90 hose end(AN) 809108
VAN' PART 90 KB-090
Mechanical fuel pump
VAN'S T KB-090T
FROM 90
Straight hose end (AN) 800106
hose 400060
90 hose end (NPT) 829006
Carburetor
I haven't done from the solenoid to the primer ports yet.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Teflon Fuel Lines |
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
01/12/2001 02:44:05 PM
I stand corrected...
After consulting the builders manual apparently Van's now recommends using
Aeroquip 701. Sorry for any confusion that my comments may have caused. I
shall be changing my hose plans accordingly.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( FWF )
O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
http://www.homestead.com/RV8A/files/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Altimeter Static Tubing |
01/12/2001 16:15:26
I drilled a small (very small) hole about 1/8th inch from the edge of the
longeron and used aviation savety wire (with the twist) to secure the
tubing. I drilled every 8 or 10 inches or so....
gert
Sent by: To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
owner-rv-list-server@mat cc:
ronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Altimeter
Static Tubing
01/11/2001 10:49 AM
Please respond to
rv-list
Maybe a dum idea, use proseal to stick the tube to the longeron.
stick the tube on top in the corner of the skin/longeron and dab proseal
on it every so often. secure th tubing with masking tape till proseal is
dry.
Gert
Norman Hunger wrote:
>
>
> > I am building an RV-8 and am installing the flush static ports
purchased
> > from Van's. I have a question on securing the tubing along the
longeron
> as
> > in goes toward the baggage compartment. I was thinking of using nylon
> wraps
> > and drilling small holes in longeron about every 8 inches or so. Does
> > anyone have a better suggestion.
>
> I try to keep the extra holes in the longerons to a minimum. They are the
> only beefy structure that go from the firewall to the tail. I put tie
strap
> holes in the J-stringers instead. The tubing gets strapped every 3-4
inches.
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A 2100 hours construction. Canopy frame but no bubble, nothing forward
of
> firewall, wiring 50%, no landing gear, oh this is getting
> depressing..........
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Teflon Fuel Lines |
I couldn't find a listing on the internet of what Aeroquip 701 hose was so I
called Vans....they told me it is NOT Teflon.
I have not received a reply back from Lycoming yet as to WHY they recommend
Teflon but here is my guess.
Lots of weekend warrior owners of production aircraft do not remove and
inspect hoses on a regular basis. Teflon will not deteriorate, rubber will
and synthetic rubber may over time. To address future liability issues
arising from poor maintenance practices, they have a policy of recommending
Teflon. I will be removing a hose in the engine compartment (most likely of
deteriorization because of high heat) at each annual inspection to assess
deterioration and replace ALL hoses as necessary.
Ross
> I stand corrected...
>
> After consulting the builders manual apparently Van's now recommends using
> Aeroquip 701. Sorry for any confusion that my comments may have caused.
I
> shall be changing my hose plans accordingly.
>
> - Jim Andrews
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com> |
| Subject: | Sport Pilot NPRM |
5.0.3 (Intl)|21 March 2000) at 01/12/2001 04:58:09 PM
Guys,
There has been info on this NPRM in recent issues of Sport Av, Kitplanes,
Avweb, etc.....and while the final wording hasn't been released by the FAA,
from what I've read it sounds like the plan is to require some training,
but it would be less than Private Pilot requirements (some exercises like
VOR/ADF, 3 hours instrument time, and other could be safely left out for
the Sport Pilot rating). If they weren't going to require any training at
all, they probly wouldn't bother with a new category, instead they could
just expand Part 103 to include the allowance for a higher weight, more
fuel, higher stall speed, and a pax (okay, and drivers license, which
virtually everyone outside a nursing home already has anyway).
For RV's, I think you're dreaming if you want to fly your airplane in this
category. It would certainly violate the intent of the law even if you
could make it look legal on paper. I think all the RV's including the -9A
offer a level of performance that will be intentionally excluded from the
new category.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage....PPSEL works for me
>if the EAA supports a NPRM that promotes a ruling that will endanger
>my well being, I'm going to oppose them as best I can. A NPRM that
>would allow ultralight pilots to move up to two place aircraft with no
>special training would be such a ruling. Since I'm not sure about
>what the NPRM will say, at this time, I can only speculate. The EAA
>did not give me that information.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Hiers" <craig-rv4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
What happened to Saber? Last I knew they were in south Florida pumping out
extensions.
Craig
Paul Besing"
>
> I have a Saber prop extension and the bolts are too short. They have
> since gone out of business, and I need to find some longer bolts.
> Anyone know of a realitvely low cost supplier of prop bolts?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Teflon Fuel Lines |
> I'll look tonight, but does the Aircraft Spruce catalog call this out?
> Rick Jory
I couldn't find it on their site or on the Wicks site. Vans site doesn't
say either.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
Their number was disconnected, with no forwarding number, so I assume they
are out of business.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Hiers" <craig-rv4(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 10:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Bolts
>
> What happened to Saber? Last I knew they were in south Florida pumping out
> extensions.
>
> Craig
>
>
> Paul Besing"
> >
> > I have a Saber prop extension and the bolts are too short. They have
> > since gone out of business, and I need to find some longer bolts.
> > Anyone know of a realitvely low cost supplier of prop bolts?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First long flying day experience |
in my 6A (long DNA, non buildi...
Lister's,
We have good prices on fuel in North Texas in the Dallas area. Sherman
Municipal (SWI) is $1.75 per/gal for 100LL. Gainsville Northwest of Dallas
(GLE) is $1.79 on weekends & $1.74 on weekdays. Both are 24/7 self serve.
Enjoy
Mark Steffensen
RV8A 85 hours
Dallas, TX
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 2:05 PM
Subject: Re: Cheap fuel at Okochobee was RV-List: First long flying day
experience in my 6A (long DNA, non buildi...
>
>
> Bernie & listers,
> A possible explanation is that this FBO is part of the Seminole or
Mikisoukie
> Indian Nations. That would exempt them from having to pay ALL fuel taxes.
The
> same thing applies to liquor & cigarettes purchased on indian land. What
do you
> think Bernie?
> Charlie Kuss
>
> > The resturuant will be open at KOBE in July. That's what they said last
> > Saturday when I was in line for fuel.
> >
> > Rick
> >
> >
> > > > I find it hard to believe he can sell it for that it cost him 2.15
to
> > >buy
> > > > it. Must have a hugh storage tank and bought it cheap.
> > >
> > >
> > >You got me, but he sells a ton of gas. I've seen the tanker there
several
> > >times. They sell gas to a lot of folks from all over south florida who
fly
> > >there just to get gas. I've had to wait for 7 airplanes late on a
pretty
> > >Sunday afternoon. If they had a resturant, you would probablly always
have
> > >to
> > >wait :>)
> > >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Hiers" <craig-rv4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Contact Aymar-Demuth I bet they can tell you whats up with Saber,
those guy's were in tight with Judy.
Craig
> Their number was disconnected, with no forwarding number, so I assume they
> are out of business.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Finish Kit (Still)
>
> -----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Altimeter Static Tubing |
pcondon wrote:
> I drilled a small (very small) hole about 1/8th inch from the edge of the
> longeron
Maybe you know something I don't but in general drilling a hole in a beam
(or any other similar part?) in the very middle is best for preserving the
strength of the part. As I recall little or no strength is lost if the hole
is mid located and its diameter is less than 1/3rd of the width. So a 1/8
hole in the middle would be preferable to one on the edge. This is about
what the lightening holes are like, right?
A hole smaller than 1/8th located 1/8 from the edge would qualify, I guess.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AV8TURDON(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: First long flying day experience |
in ...
Yeah right I'm going to fly down from NH to buy it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
High performance prop is up for auction on ebay.
Item no 538498050.
0 hrs since o/h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
as a matter of sick and jealous interest, who and where sells the cheapest
100LL?
Marcel de Ruiter
RV4/GRVMJ
N.Ireland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | wing conduit (light wires) |
I am about to rivet wing ribs to spars (6). I plan to install landing/nav
lights. I see in Ondorff videos that a hole is drilled approx. 9 inches from
the front rib flange and 1 inch up from the web. I did not see in the plans
any suggestions for such. Is there some type of pcv or conduit available?
George spoke of a flexible 5/8 tubing-I assume my holes should be 5/8? Help,
Bob in Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Burns" <hsierra(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | vetterman address |
help!!! im installing my vetterman exhaust (excellent unit by the way)
there is a problem with the fit of one pipe. I called Larry and of course
he said;" send it to me and I will make it fit". the only problem is after
getting off the phone and checking I only have his old address in Colorado.
any body have his address in south Dakota? figured I could get it in couple
of minutes on the list instead of calling him again tomorrow.
R. Burns
RV-4 N82RB s/n 3524
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | M10ALON415(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: vetterman address |
In a message dated 1/12/01 8:43:58 PM Central Standard Time,
hsierra(at)flash.net writes:
<< help!!! im installing my vetterman exhaust (excellent unit by the way)
there is a problem with the fit of one pipe. I called Larry and of course
he said;" send it to me and I will make it fit". the only problem is after
getting off the phone and checking I only have his old address in Colorado.
any body have his address in south Dakota? figured I could get it in couple
of minutes on the list instead of calling him again tomorrow.
R. Burns
RV-4 N82RB s/n 3524 >>
Hot Springs
So. Dak.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: wing conduit (light wires) |
Vans sells a ribbed conduit that works well for wing conduit. Just be sure
to bore out the inside ribs large enough to pass the tubing through. The
end ribs should be a tight fit to the tubing.
Brian Eckstein
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: wing conduit (light wires) |
Brian, what size holes?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | maintenance and trouble shooting articles |
Here are some interesting articles on the Sacremento Sky Ranch web page:
http://www.sacskyranch.com/frame1.htm
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vetterman address |
9 Watersedge
Hot Springs SD 57747
I have the new version of Larry's exhaust with the heat muff included and it
is a nice piece of work!
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Burns <hsierra(at)flash.net>
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 8:35 PM
Subject: RV-List: vetterman address
>
> help!!! im installing my vetterman exhaust (excellent unit by the way)
> there is a problem with the fit of one pipe. I called Larry and of course
> he said;" send it to me and I will make it fit". the only problem is
after
> getting off the phone and checking I only have his old address in
Colorado.
> any body have his address in south Dakota? figured I could get it in
couple
> of minutes on the list instead of calling him again tomorrow.
>
> R. Burns
> RV-4 N82RB s/n 3524
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | which slick magneto? |
I have a 0-320 E2D bumped up to 160 hp. I need a left magneto. Anybody
know which series Slick mag it will take. I think it will need a 4370, but
not positive. Will use electronic ignition on the right side.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: wing conduit (light wires) |
The conduit measures about 0.820 inches at is largest diameter, therefore,
that is about what you may want for the inner ribs, and it measures .0750
inches at the smallest diameter which is what I bored out the end ribs to.
Brian Eckstein
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: wing conduit (light wires) |
OOps, I meant 0.750 inches for the smaller diameter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Paul,
Clark Lydic of Performance Propellers offers Saber extensions and bolts
(he advertises in the classifieds of Sport Aviation), he might be able to
help you.
Ed Anderson
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Radio Requirements |
In a message dated 1/12/01 11:03:04 AM Pacific Standard Time,
cengland(at)netdoor.com writes:
<< Or better yet, isn't it time for all the little airplanes to leave the
crowded skies to the airlines & stop endangering all the people on the
ground? Or at least all those dangerous things built in somebody's
garage. >>
So where did that come from? I certainly didn't built anything dangerous in
my garage. I'm just asking for pilots to care enough about one another to
avail themselves of the minimum safety equipment. Nothing extreme about that
IMO.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Rudder position light/RV-8 |
Question. Considering the strobe wires are in shielded cable, what
effect does a terminal block or an exposed connector have on the
shielding? Any radio noises incurred?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A QB
San Antonio
--------------------------
> From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder position light/RV-8
>
>
> In a message dated 1/11/01 7:33:05 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com writes:
>
> << I have searched the archives for suggestions on how to pass the wiring for
> my
> strobe/position light mounted on the rudder faring through the last bulkhead
> and into the rudder faring. I found no hits to my search. Does anyone
> have...a good description on how to penetrate the
> bulkhead, how what kind of connectors to use and where to place them, and
> how you secure the wiring so it won't interfere with the rudder movement and
> so the rudder can be removed without a lot of disassembly. I'm using the
> Whelen single power supply and the wire is a 5 wire coax like material. >>
>
> Ed-
>
> This is what I did. I installed a dual row 12 position terminal block on top
> of the aft fuselage plate just forward of those vertical bars that attach the
> horizontal stabilizer aft spar. I terminated all of the strobe and position
> light wiring to six of the terminals and all of the elevator trim servo
> wiring to five terminals. One spare, okay, the fuselage wiring is complete.
>
> The wiring in the rudder exits near the front lip of the fiberglass bottom.
> It helps if the wiring is just the shielded three conductor Belden cable that
> Whelen gives you and two other lengths of hookup wire. I placed a 1 ft
> length of "Chinese hand cuff" harness sheathing (nylon webbing available at
> electronics stores) over all these wires and anchored the whole enchilada
> using an Adel clamp to the inside of the fiberglass bottom. Measure up a
> goodly distance up on the vertical stab bulkhead (this vertical rise is to
> absorb the torsional motion of the cabling and effectively decouple any other
> bending forces acting on the cable as the rudder moves back and forth). Go a
> little off from center and drill a whole large enough for a snap plug grommet
> and the wiring. Install the rudder while feeding the wiring thru this hole
> and mount the rudder. Terminate the wiring to the terminal block and secure
> as needed.
>
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing conduit (light wires) |
List:
I might add what I did with the ribbed conduit that Van's sells is to dab a
bit of proseal around the holes in the ribs that it passes through to
eliminate chafing from vibration.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuse
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: BSEckstein(at)cs.com <BSEckstein(at)cs.com>
Date: Friday, January 12, 2001 9:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: wing conduit (light wires)
>
>OOps, I meant 0.750 inches for the smaller diameter
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wing conduit (light wires) |
I ran some wires thru cheapo garden store lawn sprinkler pipe. $5.95 for
100 feet.
Some wires I ran thru the lightening holes attaching at edge of hole with
Van supplied wire clips.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Win 9x 4.90; en-US; m18) Gecko/20001108 Netscape6/6.0
| Subject: | Re: Radio Requirements |
Vanremog(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> In a message dated 1/12/01 11:03:04 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> cengland(at)netdoor.com writes:
>
> << Or better yet, isn't it time for all the little airplanes to leave the
> crowded skies to the airlines & stop endangering all the people on the
> ground? Or at least all those dangerous things built in somebody's
> garage. >>
>
> So where did that come from? I certainly didn't built anything dangerous in
> my garage. I'm just asking for pilots to care enough about one another to
> avail themselves of the minimum safety equipment. Nothing extreme about that
> IMO.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
>
Sorry; I guess my tongue was buried a little to deeply in my cheek:->
It was intended to be a comment on our willingness to regulate someone
else's pleasures. I realize that a careless ultralighter can endanger
your life in the pattern at your favorite airport, but so can a careless
licensed, multi-thousand hour piper driver, as has happened to me. More
restrictions rarely help solve any problem.
It's hard for anyone who's put forth the kind of effort required of us
to not feel at least a little elitest, but we would do well to remember
that a lot of airline pilots would just as happily take away our rights
as we would the ultralighters'.
I'm sorry if my (weak) attempt at humor offended. If I believed that
homebuilts were dangerous, I wouldn't have flown one built by a stranger
for around 300 hrs in the last 6 years.
If you fly down south in Mississippi, stop in at Slobovia Outernational
(ms71) & say hello. There's an R in the chart symbol, but you are
welcome, ultralight to airliner.
Charlie
flying -4 (purchased, not built)
DNA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Radio Requirements |
In a message dated 1/12/01 9:57:08 PM Pacific Standard Time,
cengland(at)netdoor.com writes:
<< > cengland(at)netdoor.com writes:
>
> << Or better yet, isn't it time for all the little airplanes to leave the
> crowded skies to the airlines & stop endangering all the people on the
> ground? Or at least all those dangerous things built in somebody's
> garage. >>
>
> So where did that come from? I certainly didn't built anything dangerous
in
> my garage. I'm just asking for pilots to care enough about one another to
> avail themselves of the minimum safety equipment. Nothing extreme about
that
> IMO.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
>
Sorry; I guess my tongue was buried a little to deeply in my cheek:->
It was intended to be a comment on our willingness to regulate someone
else's pleasures. I realize that a careless ultralighter can endanger
your life in the pattern at your favorite airport, but so can a careless
licensed, multi-thousand hour piper driver, as has happened to me. More
restrictions rarely help solve any problem.
It's hard for anyone who's put forth the kind of effort required of us
to not feel at least a little elitist, but we would do well to remember
that a lot of airline pilots would just as happily take away our rights
as we would the ultralighters'. >>
I felt imminently qualified to offer an opinion on this subject, as I have
nearly 500 hrs in my Eipper MXL ultralight from 1983 to 1989. They are great
fun, but they are AIRCRAFT, and when flown in close proximity with other
aircraft (such as at shared landing facilities), radios offer significant
safety, thereby enhancing the opportunity to see and avoid which is the
charter of all pilots, in whatever weight air vehicle.
Now having said all that, we are just one failed medical away from being
sport/ultralight pilots all.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder position light/RV-8 |
In a message dated 1/12/01 8:05:56 PM Pacific Standard Time,
charleyb(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< Question. Considering the strobe wires are in shielded cable, what
effect does a terminal block or an exposed connector have on the
shielding? Any radio noises incurred? >>
Not if the discontinuity is relatively short.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | vans nylon wiring conduit |
I found the conduit that vans sells. OD. is .810 inches. Can anyone tell me
what size hole I should drill in wing ribs to accommodate? Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 69 Msgs - 01/12/01 |
> _______________________________________________________________________________
> From: "Jones, Bryan D." <bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Ultralights...
>
>
> John -
>
> First, let me say I'm not trying to be condescending or a smart a** with my
> reply, only trying to debate the topic. It really sounds like you have set
> up your own sovereign nation set up there! You're not planning to regulate
> the use of leaded fuel as well, I hope? :)
No, I'm not. And I am not planning to set up my own sovereign nation. I'm trying
to operate the airports in as safe and reasonable
manner as possible.
> I'm not a lawyer, but it seems
> difficult to understand how an individual can create rules which go beyond
> FAR's.
Because I did my homework before I wrote those course and operating rules, and
both the FAA and the US Ultralight Association gave me
guidelines and suggestions to help me write them. I also discussed these rules
with the man who was wanting to operate the ultralight
there, and he didn't see anything unreasonable about them.
> Sorry if I missed it, but it sounds like there are uncontrolled
> airports you operate.
They are, although we are working on building a tower at Hilton Head Island Airport.
> Radios are still optional (though, I agree they help
> tremendously).
Again, both the FAA and the USUA Association said that under certain situations,
airport management can and should require that
ultralights have and use radios. It was also the USUA's suggestion that we could
have ultralight operators register with the airport
management and renew that registration once a year. That would allow management
to keep up with who was flying ultralights at the
airport and would allow us to keep the operators advised of problems, changes to
the course rules, etc. See my next paragraph.
> How about transponders, anti-collision beacons and ELT's?
> Those might make things even more safe. Where do we draw the line? None
> are required for UL's, as I understand the law.
No, but I do have the authority (and responsibility) to set conditions and requirements
for operating at the airport, when those
conditions and requirements are needed to keep things safe. For instance, we also
do not allow banner towing operations at Hilton Head
Island Airport because of the same factors that impact ultralights: jet traffic,
somewhat limited visibility because of trees, and
(most importantly), the single runway and the extremely limited space we have at
the airport. It's very tight and banner ops could
cause delays. On the other hand, Frogmore (Beaufort County Airport has enough
room and the visibility and traffic to allow banner ops.
Sending tow ops to the other airport is a reasonable accommodation for a legitimate
aeronautical activity, just like the course rules
and requirements I've set up for ultralights at Hilton Head are a reasonable accommodation.
> I appreciate the discussion, John, but I disagree with your intent to drive
> out the ultralights. We all have to be accountable for our own actions and
> there's no perfectly safe world. Many of the guys flying the ultralights
> are a little off the beaten path - with respect to the GA and professional
> pilots. The UL pilots pay federal taxes just like us... why should they be
> descriminated against.
I'm not discriminating against them and I'm not trying to drive them out. Just
the opposite...I was trying to establish reasonable
rules and procedures that DO allow them to operate safely at the airport. It bothers
me a bit that you would assume that without
getting into all the facts. I did a lot of talking to the USUA folks and received
a bunch of good information and suggestions, many of
which I incorporated into the course rules.
> Maybe you need some help from the FAA if the UL guys are breaking the
> law/being unsafe. Take some video or try and get an FAA employee to drop by
> periodically. If you have heavy GA/corporate jets flying in, I would think
> you could get some response from the FAA.
See above. I've already researched this with both the FAA and the USUA. I'm not
trying to catch people at being unsafe...I'm trying to
keep things safe in the first place. I tend to presume that pilots and UL folks
want to fly their craft in a safe and reasonable
manner, and if they aren't, and it's not a gross or property/life-threatening problem,
I try to find a way to get things straightened
out (i.e., phone call, a visit from an FAA Accident Prevention Counselor, a letter,
etc) before going to the FAA.
> Maybe I'll come visit your airports sometime. I'd like to fly over the
> NC/SC/VA area - seems like a nice place the times I've been there.
You're more than welcome to come in, it's a beautiful flight over the marshes and
waters and coastline of the Lowcountry, and the
seafood is terrific. Drop on in to Frogmore and pick up some caps and t-shirts...you'll
be the best-dressed RV pilot on the east coast
(that is, until I finish my airplane). I'm normally at Hilton Head Island Airport,
I go over to Frogmore about twice a week (it's a
45-minute drive between the two airports). You can contact me at the airport administrative
office at 843-689-5409.
Semper Fi
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cheap fuel (DNA) |
In a message dated 1/12/01 8:48:50 PM Eastern Standard Time,
marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com writes:
> com>
>
>
> as a matter of sick and jealous interest, who and where sells the cheapest
> 100LL?
>
>
> Marcel de Ruiter
> RV4/GRVMJ
> N.Ireland
Marcel,
Here is a great site to find out how much fuel is in the USA.
AirNav: Airport Search
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop Bolts( good source ) |
paul & listers
i called to order prop bolts from vans a couple of weeks ago and tom green
gave me the information below, they sell hardware to vans, aircraft spruce,
wicks etc.
COLUMBIA AIRMOTIVE, INC.
P.O. BOX 428
TROUTDALE, OR. 97060
503-665-4896
I ordered my bolts and got them 2 days later at a real good price.
hope this helps
scott reviere
tampa rv6a
fiberglassing cowel hinges aannnd mmyyyy ffiinnggerrrsss aaree sttticckky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wig wag circuit |
Keith,
Keith, wondering if you are referring to an old circuit for WIgWaging that
I posted to the RV-list asking if anyone could confirm that it would or
would not work. The principle component of that circuit was a Galls
Flasher. At the time the Galls Flasher was the consensus way to produce a
WigWag light pattern. It turned out to not work.
A very firm requirement I had was that each landing light must have a
separate fuse or circuit breaker. When the circuit for one of the landing
lights fails and causes a fuse or circuit breaker to open, it should not
take out the other landing light. It would be unfortunate to be forced to
execute a lights out landing in the dark when there was still one good
bulb that can't light because the landing light system was designed
with only one fuse or CB. To get the Galls to use two fuses or CBs, I
had to add some relays. This took up space, added weight, made the wiring
twice as hard to construct, created additional connections that could fail
and 2 mechanical relays that could wear out.
From this experience, I designed the WigWag Solid State Controller. You
can get the data sheet for the WigWag Solid State Controller off my web
sight; URL below. The WigWag Solid State Controller is now in
production. It can be ordered by mailing a check for $90 plus $5 for
shipping to the address below.
Bob
>
>I'm looking for a source and model numbers of the flasher and relay (or the
>stuff to build the relay) to construct Bob's wigwag circuit. (wigwag.pdf with
>the lights and wigwag cicuit controlled by two switches). I've got the
>switches and am at the point where I need to get this done, but the flasher
>and relay aren't available at the Aeroelectric site.
>
>If someone can provide a list of components, I'll just order them from
>RadioShack.
>
>Thanks,
>Keith
Bob Haan
14270 SW Koven Ct.
Tigard, OR 07224
RV6A 24461 Wiring the panel
http://easystreet.com/~bhaan/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: which slick magneto? |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
My D3G has a 4371(impluse) on the Left & a 4370 on the Right( no impluse)
Don Jordan RV6A Arlington, Tx
*****************************************
writes:
>
> I have a 0-320 E2D bumped up to 160 hp. I need a left magneto.
> Anybody
> know which series Slick mag it will take. I think it will need a
> 4370, but
> not positive. Will use electronic ignition on the right side.
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok
> -6 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jakent(at)unison.ie |
| Subject: | Rib flange edge distance |
If length of rib is not an issue, then I suggest that instead of cutting off the
old flange and riveting on a new one, that a simple doubler be fabricated to
go over the original e.g. a piece of 3/4 x 3/4 x the original gauge (or heavier).
Rivet this to the web and through the old flange to give a stronger fix than
the original, no worries about shear strength etc. JohnKent, RV4 finish kit,
Ireland (South)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cheap fuel (DNA) |
> Here is a great site to find out how much fuel is in the USA.
> AirNav: Airport
Search
I think it's at least 400 gallons... Sorry, but seriously, AirNav is a
great tool and everyone should use it. I would like to make a plea though.
In the last couple of years people have been *really* lax about posting
updated prices, and a lot of them are sorely out of date. Everyone needs to
participate to make it work. 2 years ago far fewer people were using it,
but the prices were a lot more current.
When you get back from a trip, or whenever you fuel up (even at your home
airport) update the price at AirNav - we'll all appreciate it.
Even in a fuel-efficient airplane like an RV, I've saved as much as $40 on
trips using AirNav.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
ebundy(at)micron.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BillyRV6(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | flap with spreds main skins apart |
Hello I started mounting the flap and flap brace and it seems that the flap
is to wide it pushes the top main skin skyward and the bottom wing skins
towards the ground. I can get the top skin to have the right contour without
any problem because the flap brace
hasn't been drilled or riveted yet but on the bottom skin it pushes the skin
towards the ground so when I put a ruler up against the skin there is a 1/8
th gap under the ruler. I can't seem to come up with a fix.
Has anyone else had a problem like this
Thanks
Bill
Pembroke Ma
RV 6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: flap with spreds main skins apart |
In a message dated 1/13/01 6:13:44 PM Eastern Standard Time, BillyRV6(at)AOL.COM
writes:
>
> Hello I started mounting the flap and flap brace and it seems that the flap
> is to wide it pushes the top main skin skyward and the bottom wing skins
> towards the ground. I can get the top skin to have the right contour
> without
> any problem because the flap brace
> hasn't been drilled or riveted yet but on the bottom skin it pushes the
> skin
> towards the ground so when I put a ruler up against the skin there is a 1/8
> th gap under the ruler. I can't seem to come up with a fix.
> Has anyone else had a problem like this
> Thanks
> Bill
> Pembroke Ma
>
Bill,
Never seen or heard of this problem, but you probably want to check and see
if the "springy" front portion of the top flap skin needs its bend radius
tightened a bit. Also, you might want to check and make sure that the
distance between the top and bottom skin is adequate - check it against the
thickness of your flap spar, just to make sure your wing is built properly.
Beyond that, I dunno...
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Rib flange edge distance |
Length of rib is an issue since all ribs must be same length. Otherwise, the
longer rib(s) will push the main spar or rear spar. It will then be
impossible to maintain straight wing spars.
Are
RV-8, C-GQRV (reserved)
Wings
-----Original Message-----
Subject: RV-List: Rib flange edge distance
If length of rib is not an issue, then I suggest that instead of cutting off
the old flange and riveting on a new one, that a simple doubler be
fabricated to go over the original e.g. a piece of 3/4 x 3/4 x the original
gauge (or heavier). Rivet this to the web and through the old flange to give
a stronger fix than the original, no worries about shear strength etc.
JohnKent, RV4 finish kit, Ireland (South)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
I've got a lycoming 0-360 A4M that was slated for install in a Cessna 172
upgrade. the lyc literature says the A4M is the same as an A1A except it has
a solid crank.
Soooo, everything went fine until I was rigging the mixture cable. using
vans bracket and mix cable I was short on throw about 3/16 of an inch. I
thought a different cable would do the trick. no luck... apparently the
mixture arm on the carb is fit specifically for the conversion in the 172,
it seems as if the Cessna used a longer throw cable. no prob, I called
Wentworth to have them send a mixture arm from some 0-360 with a carb(not a
Cessna), and got something from a throttle body. I thought I explained what
I needed well enough...I guess I didn't...
I'm hoping someone has already overcome this problem and will enlighten
me,
or maybe someone can suggest a make and model aircraft to get a mixture arm
from at the bone yard.
if all else fails I'll have to have a custom cable made....
thanks for listening....
Steve
capsteve(at)adelphia.net
starting to worry about the hardest part, picking the color!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Saber's still around |
Saber was bought by Sam Tillman in Texas
and is still making extensions, etc.
New number is (817) 326-6293.
I ordered an extension from him last
week.
Dave 'Durante' Hyde
nauga(at)brick.net
RV-4 finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Question |
> Would like to hear from the list, about the
> electronic ingnition system.
I have the Lightspeed Plasma I system. I've been pleased with it.
Significantly smoother running on the Lightspeed than on the
magneto. I installed mine with the trigger bolts in the starter ring gear.
It sounds difficult, but it really isn't.
Advantages:
-Easier starting
-Smoother running
Supposed to be lower fuel consumption (I've not verified this, but
John Johanson did with this same system during his around-the-world
flights).
Disadvantages:
- Cost
- Spark plug connectors ocassionally have to be squeezed with pliers
to keep them from causing RFI. I've had to do this a couple of times,
after removing the spark plugs for compression checks. Not a big deal.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
"Don't throw your vote away...
Let the Supreme Court throw it away for you."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Berryhill" <dwberryhill(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Question |
> I have the Lightspeed Plasma I system. I've been pleased with it.
> Significantly smoother running on the Lightspeed than on the
> magneto. I installed mine with the trigger bolts in the starter ring
gear.
> It sounds difficult, but it really isn't.
I checked Light Speed's web site http://www.pro.lightspeedengineering.com/
and it appears that they make a unit that replaces one of the magnetos for 4
cylinder engines (and only uses a crank mounted unit for 6 cylinder
engines). Why did you choose that model? Is the "magneto" unit relatively
new?
Dave Berryhill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Question |
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Saturday, January 13, 2001 11:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electronic Ignition Question
>
>Bert,
>
>I have the LSE Ignition in my -8A with an IO-360 and it is great!. I
>consistantly get a fuel consumption reading of about 1.5 gallons per hour
>less than the Lycoming charts call out. At 65% power I am buring just 7.6
>ghp and my EGTs and CHTs are all right in the ball park. Mine was easy to
>install although I think I will go with the Hall effect sensor next time
>instead of the flywheel sensors. They are a bit on the pricey side but the
>power and fuel efficiency more than make up for it. By the way I only have
>one electronic and one magneto and I am getting those figures.
>
>Mike Robertson
>RV-8A
>15.4 hours
With all due respect Mike, your fuel burn rate sounds too good to be true.
I tired to verify the above numbers with the Lycoming Operator's Manual p/n
2960-12, 5th edition, and I can not find any IO-360 versions that burn 9.1
gph (7.6 + 1.5 = 9.1) at 65% power. My manual lists fuel burn rates for the
IO-360 series as 9.5, 8.5, or 7.6 gph @ 65% depending on model. Which
model do you have and what altitude did you obtain the values?
I have the Unison LASAR system on my O360A1A. The price from Bart LaLonde
was much cheaper than Van's price. Unison specs (LASAR manual 1512) a 7.5%
fuel burn improvement at best economy at 8000 feet, 15% at 12,000 feet.
Your improvement seems to be (1.5)/(7.6 )= 20% -- that's almost three times
better than Unison claims, and I don't believe you can achieve 65% power at
12,000 feet. Hence my skepticism. The degree of advance is limited by
detonation and while Unison may be conservative because they go into
certificated planes, a factor of three improvement seems to be very high.
I have not yet been able to prove the fuel efficiency claims for my LASAR
system because after 26 hours my rings are not yet seated, so I'm still
running 75% or more. I bought the LASAR because
I felt it would provide better fuel efficiency, easier starting and longer
plug life. Time will tell.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 26 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Question |
In a message dated 1/13/01 8:23:58 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dwberryhill(at)home.com writes:
<< Inquiring minds want to know - tell us about the Electroair system. Is
there a web site? How does it compare to the Lightspeed or the Unison/Slick
ignitions? >>
Electroair is listed in the Yeller Pages and to my knowledge doesn't have an
e-mail address or URL. If you find out different please let me know so I can
update his listing.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | rear rudder pedals |
Has anyone experience with installation of rudder pedals inthe rear of an
RV4?
does it shorten the legroom significantly?
Marcel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder position light/RV-8 |
I was at Vans friday to pick up some parts, I looked at the tail light wiring
on the -9 which has a strobe. they ran the cable through the aft bulkhead on
the left side up about 4" between the skin and the VS spar, and entered the
bottom rudder fairing on the centerline of the leading edge. This S- turn
gives it enough room to flex. Looked pretty good to me, so thats how I am
doing mine.
Sorry, I was so busy looking at details on the -9 I forgot to look at the -8
tail light, but they are probably done the same.
Kevin
-9a wiring and panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Question |
On 14 Jan 2001, at 7:59, Dave Berryhill wrote:
> I checked Light Speed's web site
> http://www.pro.lightspeedengineering.com/
> and it appears that they make a unit that replaces one of the magnetos
> for 4 cylinder engines (and only uses a crank mounted unit for 6
> cylinder engines). Why did you choose that model? Is the "magneto"
> unit relatively new?
When I bought mine the "standard" configuration was the crank
mounted magnetic sensor arrangement. The hall effect unit was quite
a bit more $$$, and Klaus indicated he thought the crank mounted
timing system was more accurate than one that used the magneto gear
(gear lash, as I recall). I don't think the gear lash argument is
supported by any data, but the $$$ factor sure was.
Klaus's newer units seem to have the main features of my older Plasma
I unit, and newer units are less expensive.
I've found Klaus to be good to work with when I had problems (the
RFI mentioned in my earlier post). He worked with me until the
problem was resolved.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
"Don't throw your vote away...
Let the Supreme Court throw it away for you."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rear rudder pedals |
>
> Has anyone experience with installation of rudder pedals inthe rear of an
> RV4?
>
> does it shorten the legroom significantly?
>
> Marcel
I have them installed in my flying RV-4 and also the one under construction.
They really don't effect the leg room as then line up with the F-404
bulkhead which is slightly ahead of where the rear seat pax feet sit. They
are a little hard to use if your pax has big feet and your pilot has a wide
_____ (you know what I mean!) But they are relatively usable. The best
investment in rear seat room in the RV-4 is to construct footwells for the
rear pax. Makes a big difference in comfort in my opinion.
Doug
N464EM flying
N722DW buildin'
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rear rudder pedals |
> The best
> investment in rear seat room in the RV-4 is to construct footwells for the
> rear pax. Makes a big difference in comfort in my opinion.
I have now been in the back of two RV-4's.....one with and one without the
footwells. Bottom line...put in the footwells. Just do it.... No, stop
thinking about it...just do it.
Do it. :-)
Bill
-4 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
> I've got a lycoming 0-360 A4M that was slated for install in a
Cessna
> 172 upgrade. the lyc literature says the A4M is the same as an A1A except
> it has a solid crank.
> Soooo, everything went fine until I was rigging the mixture cable.
using
> vans bracket and mix cable I was short on throw about 3/16 of an inch.
[snip]
If it's a Precision MA4-5 carbeurator, then you can probably ask for an arm
for an MA4-5 model # 103878, which is the specific version of MA4-5 that
Van's engines have. It's kind of a 'Z' shaped thing.
Hope this helps.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Why not just remove the core and shorten the sheath by 1/4 inch then
re-insert the cable so you have enough travel?
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
EAA Chapter 75 helping fellow aviators
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2001 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: mixture arm
>
> > I've got a lycoming 0-360 A4M that was slated for install in a
> Cessna
> > 172 upgrade. the lyc literature says the A4M is the same as an A1A
except
> > it has a solid crank.
> > Soooo, everything went fine until I was rigging the mixture
cable.
> using
> > vans bracket and mix cable I was short on throw about 3/16 of an inch.
> [snip]
>
> If it's a Precision MA4-5 carbeurator, then you can probably ask for an
arm
> for an MA4-5 model # 103878, which is the specific version of MA4-5 that
> Van's engines have. It's kind of a 'Z' shaped thing.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | federigo(at)pacbell.net |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Question |
Electroair has two URL's, one of which is http://www.fly-gbi.com/eis.htm
and the other is
http://exp-aircraft.com/vendors/electroa.html. The first has more
information. Jeff Rose's listed e-mail address is electroair(at)juno.com
Federigo
gettin' the garage ready for a 9
<>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
well I know the business end of the cable has a crimp securing it but I
never thought to look at the knob end. also, I thought the vernier parts
were the limiting factor in the travel of the cable. (I don't think I
mentioned it was vernier) do you still think your idea is do-able ??
thanks
Steve
Why not just remove the core and shorten the sheath by 1/4 inch then
re-insert the cable so you have enough travel?
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
EAA Chapter 75 helping fellow aviators
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: flap with spreds main skins apart |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Bill,
My -8A wing/flap alignment (or lack thereof) was exactly the same way, as
was the -8 a friend of mine is building. This is a well-built,
prepunched wing where everything else up to that point had fit almost
perfectly. Seems to be a bit of a design or manufacturing flaw that you
can't do a whole lot about at this point. It really bugged me at first,
but I ended up making the flap line up with the top wing skin which
resulted in the bottom skin being undercambered between the rear spar and
the hinge, and it doesn't really look too bad once it's riveted together.
Besides it'll be on the bottom of the wing where most people won't ever
see it. I'd recommend getting the top to line up well since that's what
is most important both aesthetically and for the airflow.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A putting bulkheads in jig...
From: BillyRV6(at)AOL.COM
Subject: RV-List: flap with spreds main skins apart
Hello I started mounting the flap and flap brace and it seems that the
flap
is to wide it pushes the top main skin skyward and the bottom wing skins
towards the ground. I can get the top skin to have the right contour
without
any problem because the flap brace
hasn't been drilled or riveted yet but on the bottom skin it pushes the
skin
towards the ground so when I put a ruler up against the skin there is a
1/8
th gap under the ruler. I can't seem to come up with a fix.
Has anyone else had a problem like this
Thanks
Bill
Pembroke Ma
RV 6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DDFLAMINI(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Electronic ignitions |
Here are some actual fuel #'s from last years trip to Sun and Fun with the
Indy RV group. 6 aircraft flew this same leg at the same speed and altitude.
We all filled up, 17.7 Tom's Rocket 96T, 14.0 Mikes RV-4 96MW, 11.6 Jim's
RV-4 31W, 16.4 my RV-10 4JB , 13.0 AJ's RV-3 , 17.4 Dave's RV-4 N2131. Jim
was the only one with electronic ignition. The leg was 1:55 and i was at
2500/21" and about 135 kts. 180hp IO-360, Dennis in Chicago.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: flap with spreds main skins apart |
Billy,
I was warned about this problem by some other folks on the RV8 List. It
seems that the angles of the early flap brace flanges were bent wrong. The
solution was to rebend the flap brace to fit or if you were making 1 piece
main skins (as I did) to make the skins 1/8" longer, cordwise, at the
trailing edge. I understand that Van quietly changed the shape of the newer
flap braces.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A fuselage
Boca Raton, Fl.
> Hello I started mounting the flap and flap brace and it seems that the
> flap
> is to wide it pushes the top main skin skyward and the bottom wing skins
> towards the ground. I can get the top skin to have the right contour
> without
> any problem because the flap brace
> hasn't been drilled or riveted yet but on the bottom skin it pushes the
> skin
> towards the ground so when I put a ruler up against the skin there is a
> 1/8
> th gap under the ruler. I can't seem to come up with a fix.
> Has anyone else had a problem like this
> Thanks
> Bill
> Pembroke Ma
> RV 6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Electronic Ignition Question |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Electronic Ignition Question
Thread-Index: AcB+xNolHhCTu4DCTOOyL5s7p5b+VgAN6kUQ
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
I'd bet you'd be very hard pressed to find any difference between the
two units as far as performance/fuel consumption goes. I don't believe
the claims that one is better over the other. There's a lot of
discussion in the archives over both units. I've had no experience with
the Lasar but I do know that it costs significantly more, and you do
have to have a special timing box.
I installed my Electroair in my -6 after flying 35 hours...without a
doubt the EI works much better than my mag did. Very noticeable
difference in operation.
Why did I go with the Electroair instead of the Lightspeed? Mounting,
and that's about it. A few builders in my area have Electroair's and
I've heard nothing but good from them. One thing about the Lightspeed
that didn't appeal to me is the coils are remotely mounted on top of the
engine case...on the Electroair everything's on the unit, with the
exception of the timing unit that fits in the mag hole. I didn't like
Lightspeed's bnc/coax going from the unit to the coils...I've had a few
BNC connectors fail over the years on other things. That's just my
opinion, doesn't mean they're prone to failure, or that it's a bad unit
for that matter. In fact, I've never heard of any bad experiences with
Lightspeed, and have heard of a few people who didn't have good luck
with Electroair. My installation has been trouble-free so far.
The one thing I don't like about the Electroair (and this is very minor)
is how the manifold pressure line comes out of the unit. I would have
preferred a barbed fitting over the odd-sized hose that comes out of it.
Overall, I'm a happy camper. I'm a firm believer in that electronic
ignitions do what the makers say they do, for the most part.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 64 hours
> Yes, after doing much searching, those were the only sites I
> could come up
> with. (neither one is actually sponsored by Electroair). It would be
> interesting to see what and engine builder thinks about the
> Electroair and
> the Lightspeed units. I saw that Aero Sport offers both as options on
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Might not be. I thought you were using the old choke cable type. You
probably need a shorter mixture arm or modify it so that the cable attach
point is closer to the pivot axis.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
EAA Chapter 75 helping fellow aviators
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2001 11:51 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: mixture arm
>
>
> well I know the business end of the cable has a crimp securing it
but I
> never thought to look at the knob end. also, I thought the vernier parts
> were the limiting factor in the travel of the cable. (I don't think I
> mentioned it was vernier) do you still think your idea is do-able ??
> thanks
> Steve
>
>
> Why not just remove the core and shorten the sheath by 1/4 inch then
> re-insert the cable so you have enough travel?
>
> Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
> EAA Chapter 75 helping fellow aviators
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Mike Seager Training in Fort Worth |
Mike Seager will be in Fort Worth March 29, 30 and 31 to do RV transition
training. If you are a current pilot, building an RV and would like some
transition training, please give us a call at 940-648-0841.
George and Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | -6 Empenage Kit for sale |
Horz. stab. complete. Vertical Stab. complete. Rudder ready to close.
Excellent workmanship. Includes electric trim option. Poughkeepsie N.Y. area.
$900.00 Please reply offline.
Kenny 845-677-3193
________________________________________________________________________________
01/15/2001 11:42:29
Don't forget the swing of the choke arm gas a different swing axis then the
throttle
"Cy Galley"
To:
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: Re: RV-List: mixture
arm
ronics.com
01/15/2001 09:48 AM
Please respond to
rv-list
Might not be. I thought you were using the old choke cable type. You
probably need a shorter mixture arm or modify it so that the cable attach
point is closer to the pivot axis.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
EAA Chapter 75 helping fellow aviators
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2001 11:51 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: mixture arm
>
>
> well I know the business end of the cable has a crimp securing it
but I
> never thought to look at the knob end. also, I thought the vernier parts
> were the limiting factor in the travel of the cable. (I don't think I
> mentioned it was vernier) do you still think your idea is do-able ??
> thanks
> Steve
>
>
> Why not just remove the core and shorten the sheath by 1/4 inch then
> re-insert the cable so you have enough travel?
>
> Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
> EAA Chapter 75 helping fellow aviators
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Rear Rudder Pedals |
Marcel,
I purchased an RV-4 in October 1999. My insurance company required that I
get 10 hrs "time in type". I inquired about flying with Mike Seager in the
RV-6 and was told it was not time in type. I finally located an instructor
who would instruct me in my own plane, but I had to install rear rudder
pedals. When I called Vans, they tried to talk me out of buying them.
Scott told me they were pretty clugey. He was right. BUT the pedals do
work. They are ugly and do not have brakes.
They do not take up a lot of rear seat leg room. In fact that is part of
the problem. Because of their location, the rear seat passenger can not get
anywhere near a full throw on the rudder. They are fine for normal flying
from the rear seat, but inadequate for "driving" the plane on the ground or
aerobatics.
My instructor solved this problem (and made the pedals even uglier) by
welding up and bolting on pedal extensions that set the pedal surface back
another 3 inches. This allowed nearly full throw. We needed this so my
instructor (Joe Gauthier) could assist in stearing from the rear seat when i
was learning to drive the plane on the ground.
Once I finished my training, I removed those godawful things from my
otherwise nice airplane.
Best regards,
Don Mei
RV-4 N92CT (147 hrs spent in the RV in 2000)
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Donald Campbell <dfcca(at)excite.com> |
| Subject: | Re: -6 Empenage Kit for sale |
>
> Horz. stab. complete. Vertical Stab. complete. Rudder ready to close.
> Excellent workmanship. Includes electric trim option. Poughkeepsie N.Y.
area.
> $900.00 Please reply offline.
> Kenny 845-677-3193
>
>
>
>
>
>
dfcca(at)mailexcite.com
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Vetterman 6-A Hanger |
Does anyone have a web site showing a picture of the hanger system for the
Vetterman exhaust on a 6-A?
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Donald Campbell <dfcca(at)excite.com> |
01/15/2001 11:42:29, rv-list(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> Don't forget the swing of the choke arm gas a different swing axis then
the
> throttle
>
>
>
> "Cy Galley"
> To:
> Sent by: cc:
> owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: Re:
RV-List: mixture arm
> ronics.com
>
>
> 01/15/2001 09:48 AM
> Please respond to
> rv-list
>
>
>
>
>
> Might not be. I thought you were using the old choke cable type. You
> probably need a shorter mixture arm or modify it so that the cable attach
> point is closer to the pivot axis.
>
> Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
> EAA Chapter 75 helping fellow aviators
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2001 11:51 PM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: mixture arm
>
>
> >
> >
> > well I know the business end of the cable has a crimp securing
it
> but I
> > never thought to look at the knob end. also, I thought the vernier
parts
> > were the limiting factor in the travel of the cable. (I don't think I
> > mentioned it was vernier) do you still think your idea is do-able ??
> > thanks
> > Steve
> >
> >
> > Why not just remove the core and shorten the sheath by 1/4 inch then
> > re-insert the cable so you have enough travel?
> >
> > Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
> > EAA Chapter 75 helping fellow aviators
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
dfcca(at)mailexcite.com
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Question |
How much does the Lasar system advance the spark? My ElectroAir's panel
advance meter shows 42 degrees BTDC at 11500 ft.at 2300 RPM. Bob Murphy
Poplar Grove,IL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Question |
The electronic ignition runs much better than mags.There is no
comparison. I believe once you have had it on your airplane it will be a
must.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cockpit placards |
dear listers
where can i get a list of neccessary instrument panel and cockpit placards?
thanks
scott
tampa rv6a finishing
oh yeah don't mention fiberglass coweling to me for at least a couple weeks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | More great customer service |
Listers,
I'm glad to say that my O-360 is now healthy again after discovering ZERO
compression on cylinder #1 during annual inspection. Gibson Aviation in El
Reno, OK was recommended to me to check out the cylinder. I sent it to them
after a quick call to let them know it was coming. "We'll do a one day turn
on it and have a serviceable assembly to you by the end of the week" was
Marshall Gibson's reply. Cool! This was indeed the case. He called me three
days later. The cylinder was cracked and he already had an overhauled chrome
assembly with serviceable valves, new seats, guides, piston & pin, springs,
rings, gasket kit and yellow tag ready to go out that same day with my
approval. I had it two days later, on time, securely packaged and the bill
came to $681 as he had estimated from the start. Now, I wasn't quite ready
to have to deal with a cracked cylinder....especially after the holiday
shopping season, but Gibson Aviation made it as painless and trouble free as
possible. I also managed to mangle the piston pin in a total
misunderstanding of which set of pin plugs to use. Marshall sent a new pin
with the pressed in type plugs...free of charge. Didn't cost me a dime.
"Just send me the other pin when you get around to it" was his only request.
Yet another fine company to deal with. It's folks like the Gibsons and
Averys that make owning an airplane a wonderful thing.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
161 hrs with ALL FOUR cylinders working! Electronic ignition coming soon.
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | earl fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Well I don't have to worry any more about the canopy cracking cause
it done cracked. I have it drilled from the front skirt around the rear
and back to the front skirt on the other side. I will drill the front
after I finish the rear skirts. The crack is about one inch vertical
near the rear seat and I think the fiberglass will cover it. Now my
problem is drilling the rear skirt. I find it impossible to drill
through the skirt with the canopy on the frame. I am starting to drill
the skirt directly to the frame but am afraid It won't line up due to
the thickness of the canopy. Those of you who have gotten through this,
how did you do it? Helllllllpppppppeeeee.
Earl RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
01/15/2001 02:17:05 PM
Earl,
I'm building an 8A and the prescribed method to do the drilling you
mentioned is to drill the canopy to the frame and then attach the canopy to
the frame with keeper pop rivets about every foot. Then you make or buy a
hole duplicator to transfer the holes to the skirt. I did this on mine and
it worked like a champ. I actually made my hole duplicator out of two
strips of aluminum attached together with two 4-4 rivets. I can talk you
through it if you like.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( FWF )
O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
earl fortner (at)matronics.com on 01/15/2001
01:30:20 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 canopy
Well I don't have to worry any more about the canopy cracking cause
it done cracked. I have it drilled from the front skirt around the rear
and back to the front skirt on the other side. I will drill the front
after I finish the rear skirts. The crack is about one inch vertical
near the rear seat and I think the fiberglass will cover it. Now my
problem is drilling the rear skirt. I find it impossible to drill
through the skirt with the canopy on the frame. I am starting to drill
the skirt directly to the frame but am afraid It won't line up due to
the thickness of the canopy. Those of you who have gotten through this,
how did you do it? Helllllllpppppppeeeee.
Earl RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Who's building what type of kitplane? |
The FAA has just started to track homebuilt registrations by
manufacturer and not just by the builder as they did in the past.
For the period of Oct 99 through Aug 2000 there were 524 RVs registered.
Almost 300 of these were -6s. This is five times the number of Van's
closest competitors. Stodderd-Hamilton (who just may end up in the hands of
the Weitzel's after all) had about 100 as did Lancair and SkyStar.
Van has stepped up and agreed to be the engine supplier for the builders
of the Glasair and GlaStar planes until something gets worked out with the
company ownership (if it ever does...). Since Van's doesn't stock engines
this shouldn't affect the RV builders who plan to buy a new engine.
We've known it all along. People who build RVs have a better chance of
finishing them than most, and more people are building RVs then any other
type.
Dave Burton
RV6a, Seattle
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Question |
>
> The electronic ignition runs much better than mags.There is no
> comparison. I believe once you have had it on your airplane it will be a
> must.
BOBE, I am not the formost expert on EIS and I have only a little over 1
hour on my newly installed Electroair. Other than a smoother idle and
little to no drop when running on the EIS durring runup I really see no
difference in how the engine runs in flight. It did seem to have more
power on my first takeoff with the EIS (engine reached rpm faster) but
that could have been attributed to many factors or just my imagination.
Please explain your statement on how it runs much better than mags.
--
Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado
RV-6A N99PZ Flying
Engine: Aerosport Power O-360-A1A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Best Sun-n-Fun days |
Hi all,
I starting to plan my first trip out to Sun-n-Fun. What are the best days to attend?
I'd probably hang out for a couple of days.
Might just have to go down to Bahamas to lay in the sun for a couple of days as
well. Just because I'm in the neighborhood, you know.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Laird RV-6
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Cleaveland Static Ports |
List:
Has anyone used proseal or the like to put the cleaveland static ports on
instead of riveting them?
Len, RV-8A
North Carolina N910LL (res)
Hanging Engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Cleaveland Static Ports |
Riveting is easy (backrivet) with good results. That's what I did.
Rick Jory, Highlands Ranch, CO RV8A QB
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2001 3:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: RE: Cleaveland Static Ports
>
> List:
>
> Has anyone used proseal or the like to put the cleaveland static ports on
> instead of riveting them?
>
> Len, RV-8A
> North Carolina N910LL (res)
> Hanging Engine
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Listers,
I'm trying to finish up my fuel vent system and now have it plumbed to where
it goes through the gear tower floor in my RV-8. I can't find anything in
the plans or manual regarding what sort of length or shape extends below the
gear access cover. I'm assuming that you fab an aluminum tube and penetrate
the gear access cover with a rubber grommet. Do you bend it forward or leave
it straight with a slash cut? How far should it protrude? Is this specified
somewhere in the manual or plans and I'm blind?
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, N558RL, final plumbing & wiring
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel vent tube |
>Listers,
>
>I'm trying to finish up my fuel vent system and now have it plumbed to
>where
>it goes through the gear tower floor in my RV-8. I can't find anything in
>the plans or manual regarding what sort of length or shape extends below
>the
>gear access cover. I'm assuming that you fab an aluminum tube and penetrate
>the gear access cover with a rubber grommet. Do you bend it forward or
>leave
>it straight with a slash cut? How far should it protrude? Is this specified
>somewhere in the manual or plans and I'm blind?
>
>Thanks,
>Randy Lervold
>RV-8, #80500, N558RL, final plumbing & wiring
>www.rv-8.com
>Home Wing VAF
>
Randy,
I extended the tubes through the covers, about three inches, and gave them a
slight forward sweep into the airstream. If you aim them just right, and
overfill your tanks on a hot day, they can often be seen peeing fuel quite
an impressive distance....oftentimes onto an admiring visitor's shoe. "Aw,
he LIKES you! See?" hehe.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Hiers" <craig-rv4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Best Sun-n-Fun days |
If you want to see the RV's then attend the first 3 day's.
If you wait untill Thur/Fri/Sat there very few left.
Craig Hiers
Tallahassee,FL.
> Hi all,
>
> I starting to plan my first trip out to Sun-n-Fun. What are the best days
to attend? I'd probably hang out for a couple of days.
>
> Might just have to go down to Bahamas to lay in the sun for a couple of
days as well. Just because I'm in the neighborhood, you know.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Laird RV-6
> SoCal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel vent tube |
Thanks! Did I miss something, or is there nothing in the plans or manual?
Also, did you use a rubber grommet where it goes through the access cover?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 12:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel vent tube
>
>
> >Listers,
> >
> >I'm trying to finish up my fuel vent system and now have it plumbed to
> >where
> >it goes through the gear tower floor in my RV-8. I can't find anything in
> >the plans or manual regarding what sort of length or shape extends below
> >the
> >gear access cover. I'm assuming that you fab an aluminum tube and
penetrate
> >the gear access cover with a rubber grommet. Do you bend it forward or
> >leave
> >it straight with a slash cut? How far should it protrude? Is this
specified
> >somewhere in the manual or plans and I'm blind?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Randy Lervold
> >RV-8, #80500, N558RL, final plumbing & wiring
> >www.rv-8.com
> >Home Wing VAF
> >
> Randy,
>
> I extended the tubes through the covers, about three inches, and gave them
a
> slight forward sweep into the airstream. If you aim them just right, and
> overfill your tanks on a hot day, they can often be seen peeing fuel quite
> an impressive distance....oftentimes onto an admiring visitor's shoe.
"Aw,
> he LIKES you! See?" hehe.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
>
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | earl fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Well I have the hole duplicator but it will not go throuh the canopy
to match the hole in the tubing. Never thought about a keeper rivet
though, I will try that. Thanks, Earl
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote:
>
>
> Earl,
>
> I'm building an 8A and the prescribed method to do the drilling you
> mentioned is to drill the canopy to the frame and then attach the canopy to
> the frame with keeper pop rivets about every foot. Then you make or buy a
> hole duplicator to transfer the holes to the skirt. I did this on mine and
> it worked like a champ. I actually made my hole duplicator out of two
> strips of aluminum attached together with two 4-4 rivets. I can talk you
> through it if you like.
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8A ( FWF )
> O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
> N89JA reserved
>
> earl fortner (at)matronics.com on 01/15/2001
> 01:30:20 PM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> cc:
> Subject: RV-List: RV-4 canopy
>
>
> Well I don't have to worry any more about the canopy cracking cause
> it done cracked. I have it drilled from the front skirt around the rear
> and back to the front skirt on the other side. I will drill the front
> after I finish the rear skirts. The crack is about one inch vertical
> near the rear seat and I think the fiberglass will cover it. Now my
> problem is drilling the rear skirt. I find it impossible to drill
> through the skirt with the canopy on the frame. I am starting to drill
> the skirt directly to the frame but am afraid It won't line up due to
> the thickness of the canopy. Those of you who have gotten through this,
> how did you do it? Helllllllpppppppeeeee.
> Earl RV4
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM |
anyone have any comments about sterba, prince, props inc.,performance or
other wood and or composite props for 0-320 lyc engines on an rv-4 ? I've
looked in the arcs, and didn't find much. thanks mike rv-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
I need the help of some of you electronics experts out there. I wear
earplugs under my headphones whenever I fly, which includes quite often in a
C182 with a friend of mine. Trouble is he keeps the intercom volume so low
I can't hear him half the time. So can anyone tell me how to build an amp
where I can plug the headphones in one end and plug the other end into the
airplane jack, or maybe there is already something like this off the shelf.
Thanks.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 panel and wiring (almost taking as long as the canopy)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
Earl:
The way I drilled the side skirt to the rail. After fitting the side
skin and bending the top to have a flat surface against the glass. Have
the glass clecoed to the rail. At one end take the clecoes out and
replace with flush 1/8 rivets. Just push through the glass and into the
rail. when all the rivets are in place, about every other hole is
adequate, lay up the side skirt and tape on to fix it in place. Take
your hole duplicator and slide between the side skirt and one of the
holes in the glass that does not have a rivet. The rivets keep the
glass and rail aligned. don't worry if they are not pulled up to
eachother all the way around. Drill the hole, remove the duplicator and
drill again to line up the holes. Ok to use a #40 first and a #30 next
to insure your holes are aligned. Install a clecoe and go to the next
hole. You will end up with every other hole drilled and clecoed. you
can remove the skirt, remove all the rivets (DO NOT DRIVE THE RIVETS,
JUST SET THEM IN. Now you can cleco the skirt back on and do the same
thing to the holes that had a rivet retaining the glass to the rail. If
you have any questions just let me know!!!!
TO bad about the crack. Just carefully stop drill it and it will be
fine. you're going to have to have something to show people later when
you want to feel human!!!!
Good Luck
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
FWF
earl fortner wrote:
>
>
> Well I don't have to worry any more about the canopy cracking cause
> it done cracked. I have it drilled from the front skirt around the rear
> and back to the front skirt on the other side. I will drill the front
> after I finish the rear skirts. The crack is about one inch vertical
> near the rear seat and I think the fiberglass will cover it. Now my
> problem is drilling the rear skirt. I find it impossible to drill
> through the skirt with the canopy on the frame. I am starting to drill
> the skirt directly to the frame but am afraid It won't line up due to
> the thickness of the canopy. Those of you who have gotten through this,
> how did you do it? Helllllllpppppppeeeee.
> Earl RV4
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R. Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net> |
| Subject: | EIS fuel flow option |
Listers:
Can anyone tell me the best way to mount the fuel flow module for the EIS
system? The instructions say to mount it with the wires up which puts the
bolt holes vertical as well. It also says to mount it 10" from any
turbulence sources (pumps, tubing bends) and then a straight 6" run after
the module. I don't really like the idea of an extra 16" of fuel line in
the engine compartment. How have others done it?
Thanks!
Wayne Williams
RV-8A
Danville, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Engine Break-In Period |
> I have not yet been able to prove the fuel efficiency claims for my LASAR
> system because after 26 hours my rings are not yet seated, so I'm still
> running 75% or more. I bought the LASAR because
> I felt it would provide better fuel efficiency, easier starting and
longer
> plug life. Time will tell.
Dennis,
I too have an O-360 from Bart with the LASAR. How can you tell your rings
have not seated, oil consumption? Just curious so I'll know when I get
there.
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
Two methods to establish breakin:
1) My oil consumption remains at one quart every 4 hours. This is two to
three times what it should be.
2) At 25 hours I did a compression check. Values were 70/80 to 72/80 and we
could hear air hissing out the breather, indicating ring leakage.
I had spectral oil analysis performed at 25 hours and all parameters were in
the range of normal wear rates. I'll continue that every oil change.
By the way, we had a hard time getting the oil filter off. I had read an
earlier posting about that problem with Bart's engine. If your engine is
not mounted yet, you might loosen the filter, apply DC4 and retorque. You
must check for filter leaks after each oil change by running the engine for
a minute or two and thus there is little danger in too loose a filter
torque -- too tight can make it difficult to remove the filter.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 26 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Hollifield <billhollifield(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Audio Amplifier |
2 Suggestions
1. Install the noise-cancelling kit from Headsets Inc. in your headset. I
love mine - it works great. You'll be able to hear fainter
audio. http://www.headsetsinc.com/
2. Turn up the intercom so you can hear and have him simply twist down the
volume control on his headset. Much easier. Just complement him on how
superior his headset is to yours by being able to use less input signal and
he won't mind a bit.
Bill
>
>I need the help of some of you electronics experts out there. I wear
>earplugs under my headphones whenever I fly, which includes quite often in a
>C182 with a friend of mine. Trouble is he keeps the intercom volume so low
>I can't hear him half the time. So can anyone tell me how to build an amp
>where I can plug the headphones in one end and plug the other end into the
>airplane jack, or maybe there is already something like this off the shelf.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Mike Robbins
>RV8Q 80591 panel and wiring (almost taking as long as the canopy)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
Howdy All,
I went up to Oregon last week and brought back my long awaited Quickbuild 6
w/slider. My nephew and I drove straight through 17 hours. Just like the old
time road trips. Got it home and got the inventory done and noticed that the
fuel tanks don't have fuel senders in them. Should I just get the SW ones
from Van's or is there something better? Also, the fuel pickup tubes are
just alum tubing with about 7 or 8 slots hacksawed into them and not the
stainless steel finger screens I see shown in the catalog. Will these
pickups flow enough gph and resist clogging as well as the finger screens?
What should I use (if anything) on the gasket when I close up the gas tanks?
Also, (not to start the primer wars again, but...) when they did that wash
primer, they really really scrubbed the skins (with scotchbrite I guess and
coarser than any I've got) and I'm wondering if there's any alclad left. I'm
thinking about hitting it with akzo epoxy wherever I can get to it. Good
idea or overkill?
Taking some deep breaths and thinking about where to start.
Ed Holyoke
tail almost done, QB#60522
N86ED (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM |
Sorry to hear about your crack, anyway on my -4 I tack riveted the canopy to
the frame with a few rivets to hold it in the proper place, and then put the
side skins on, drilled and cleco'ed the bottom of the skins to the canopy
frame and then marked hole locations along the canopy or top part of the
skins. Then removed the skins and drilled these top holes with a regular
drill bit, put the skins back on and then used a plexi bit to drill thru the
canopy just until the plexi bit went through and made a mark on the canopy
frame, using the holes in the skins as a quide. I had a space heater going
full tilt the whole time so everything was pretty warm. Then drilled out the
tack rivets, removed the canopy and cleaned up and counter sunk the holes in
the plexi. Then used a regular bit to finish the holes in the frame.
Primed, re-assembled and riveted it together. This worked ok for me, hope
it makes some sense to you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Question |
Gary,I have over 400 hours on RV4 282EM. 100+ hrs.on the ElectroAir when
The magnetic pickup went bad .I put the right mag back on. I could
really feel the diference and it went back to burning about a gallon an
hour more gas.You will appriciate EI more at 8 to 12 thousand ft.Jeff
Rose sent me a replacement part (no charge) after we finally figuerd out
what was wrong.I put the EI back on.The engine is stronger,smoother
,climbs better,and definately uses less gas.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Break-In Period |
Cylinder break-in time is usually determined by cylinder wall type,
New Lycoming - (nitrided) normally takes 10-15 hours.
Used Lycoming - Oversized (nitrited) - same as new.
CermiNil - (Nickel/chrome) - 1 hour.
Straight Chrome - 40 to 50 hours.
So if you have new/oversized/cerminil cylinders and you're still burning 1 qt/4
hours then I'd say you have a problem. You might have to pull the jugs and hone
the cylinders and start your break-in all over.
BTW, the most accurate way to tell if the rings have set is that you will see a
20/30 degree drop in CHT at the same power setting. If you're running cerminil
cylinders, you can see the rings seat via CHT drop while the engine is still on
the test stand. Normally happens in the first 30 minutes of run time.
Bruce
Glasair III
Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
> > I have not yet been able to prove the fuel efficiency claims for my LASAR
> > system because after 26 hours my rings are not yet seated, so I'm still
> > running 75% or more. I bought the LASAR because
> > I felt it would provide better fuel efficiency, easier starting and
> longer
> > plug life. Time will tell.
>
> Dennis,
> I too have an O-360 from Bart with the LASAR. How can you tell your rings
> have not seated, oil consumption? Just curious so I'll know when I get
> there.
>
> Thanks,
> Randy Lervold
> www.rv-8.com
>
> Two methods to establish breakin:
>
> 1) My oil consumption remains at one quart every 4 hours. This is two to
> three times what it should be.
>
> 2) At 25 hours I did a compression check. Values were 70/80 to 72/80 and we
> could hear air hissing out the breather, indicating ring leakage.
>
> I had spectral oil analysis performed at 25 hours and all parameters were in
> the range of normal wear rates. I'll continue that every oil change.
>
> By the way, we had a hard time getting the oil filter off. I had read an
> earlier posting about that problem with Bart's engine. If your engine is
> not mounted yet, you might loosen the filter, apply DC4 and retorque. You
> must check for filter leaks after each oil change by running the engine for
> a minute or two and thus there is little danger in too loose a filter
> torque -- too tight can make it difficult to remove the filter.
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 26 hours
> Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: For Sale - ElectroAir Electronic Ignition |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Water in the fuel lines |
Builders,
I need to give a little background with my question, so here goes.
I have a partially completed fuel system installation. The cabin side of the fuel
lines is going to be aluminum tubing. The gas will run from the wing tanks
to the fuel selector via lines that run along the floor as shown in the RV6
plans. The lines sweep upward into the selector creating the first place water
could be left standing between the wings, and the valve. From the fuel selector
valve, the single line runs downward and follows the floor to the boost pump.
I elected to put the pump in the center in between the battery and the spar.
This low point could also hold water. Once through the pump, fuel will
flow along the right hand side of the battery case and exit into the engine compartment.
The bulkhead fitting is about 2-1/2 inches from the bottom skin --
just high enough to clear the engine mount on my RV6A. In the engine compartment,
I make a 90-degree right hand turn using an Aeroquip flow-through elbow,
and begin the runs using the Aeroquip-701 hose that Van's supplies. The gascolator
is located about 6 inches away on the firewall, and the inlet is a good
3 inches higher then the bulhead fitting. From this point, I run off to the fuel
flow sensor -- I use the one recommended for use with the Rocky Mountain Instruments
uMonitor. From the sensor, I run a hose over to teh engine driven
pump in such a way that water could be held in the line if it were present.
The question I am working up to is: Will the water that might get into these various
lines be a problem?
I will religiously drain the wing tanks and gascolator, but I suppose it is still
possible to get water in the lines. When I first was putting in the system,
I was under the impression that water in the lines will just flush out when
the engine is running, and flow into the bowl of the gascolator. Yesterday,
a friend was over who had built an RV4. He looked at my fuel system, an said
"This is wrong. The gascolator should be at the lowest point in the system" I
trust hiim, but I also know that the plans show lines which are lower than any
gascolator could be placed unless the unit were under the airframe. So whats
your guys opinion. Am I looking into a possible engine shutdown on takeoff?
Will the water just get pushed through and get trapped by the gascolator?
You comments are appreciated. Thanks in advance.
David Schilling
Scappoose, OR.
RV-6AQB -- Working on the cowl
davideng@columbia-center.org
503-543-3076
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EIS fuel flow option |
In a message dated 1/15/01 11:04:09 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rwayne(at)gamewood.net writes:
>
> Listers:
>
> Can anyone tell me the best way to mount the fuel flow module for the EIS
> system? The instructions say to mount it with the wires up which puts the
> bolt holes vertical as well. It also says to mount it 10" from any
> turbulence sources (pumps, tubing bends) and then a straight 6" run after
> the module. I don't really like the idea of an extra 16" of fuel line in
> the engine compartment. How have others done it?
> Thanks!
>
> Wayne Williams
> RV-8A
> Danville, VA
Hi Wayne,
I mounted it downstream of my Andair gascolator and before the engine fuel
pump. Some folks have had difficulty getting it to read steady and correctly.
So far (72 hours) mine has been very good. I mounted it on a small bracket
attached to the firewall which results in the wires up position. Did not end
up with much if any extra length since I put the gascolator as far down and
outboard as possible. I know the boost pump generates fuel pulses and may be
the culprit to folks not getting it to read properly. It may be that the very
fine mesh screen in the gascolator dampens those pulses sufficiently to allow
the fuel meter to work.
Bernie Kerr, 6A flying, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Water in the fuel lines |
In a message dated 1/16/01 2:42:34 AM Eastern Standard Time,
davideng@columbia-center.org writes:
> So whats your guys opinion. Am I looking into a possible engine shutdown
on
> takeoff? Will the water just get pushed through and get trapped by the
> gascolator?
IMHO the water will be pushed thru when you are flowing 8-10 gallons per
hours. It would be an easy test and maybe I will run it. Take a peice of
clear plastic hose with the same ID as the fuel lines. May a p-trap out of
the hose say maybe twice the height that you are concerned with water
sticking. Put water in the tube and now flow gasoline through it. Does it
stick or flow?
I believe it flows because I've heard people talk about engines burping as a
slug of water passes. My big concern is that a small amount of water hangs
in the low spot and freezes a burst the line or blocks it if in flight.
Bernie Kerr, 6A flying, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Schilling" <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | EIS fuel flow option |
I made a right angle bracket and mounted it to the firewall over close to
the left side. The line coming from the engine driven pump makes a sweeping
180 degree bend into the transducer, then the line from the transducer goes
to the carb. It seems to work quite well this way. No problems in 150 + hrs.
Karl RV-8 711KN
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DDFLAMINI(at)AOL.COM |
Doug Murray, my RV-10 is a Tailwind RV wannabe. i fly with 3 RV-6's at Sanger
airport south of Chicago and the RV group from around Chicago and
Indianapolis. We have a good time and fly every weekend possible. i raced my
Tailwind in the Sun 100 last year with several RV's, most notable was Tracy
Salor's 6 at 235mph, i did 196mph, Dennis Flamini, race # 53 Chicago, IL. PS,
you should have seen all the people on the way to Florida ask about the "new"
RV-10, maybe there is something to that confusing ballot!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ruben" <drugznl(at)hotmail.com> |
DO NOT MAIL ME ANYMORE!!!!!!!
TNX----- Original Message -----
From: <DDFLAMINI(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 2:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-10
>
> Doug Murray, my RV-10 is a Tailwind RV wannabe. i fly with 3 RV-6's at
Sanger
> airport south of Chicago and the RV group from around Chicago and
> Indianapolis. We have a good time and fly every weekend possible. i raced
my
> Tailwind in the Sun 100 last year with several RV's, most notable was
Tracy
> Salor's 6 at 235mph, i did 196mph, Dennis Flamini, race # 53 Chicago, IL.
PS,
> you should have seen all the people on the way to Florida ask about the
"new"
> RV-10, maybe there is something to that confusing ballot!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Forsting" <flynrv4(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Change of e-mail address to |
Bcc:
Hi! I am writing to let you know that I have a new e-mail address: .
You can use it to send me e-mail and to send me instant messages using
MSN Messenger or MSN Explorer's Online Buddies.
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel vent tube |
>
>Thanks! Did I miss something, or is there nothing in the plans or manual?
>Also, did you use a rubber grommet where it goes through the access cover?
>
>
I don't recall seeing it specified in the plans or manual. It's just a
standard practice to point them into the wind somewhat. I used Tony B's
books for guidance on this kind of stuff. I didn't use a grommet, just
drilled out about a 1/2" hole and stuck them through it. The tubes do not
move at all since I clamped them in place with one adel clamp screwed to a
small piece of angle which is pop riveted inside the gear leg recess. As
long as they point down or forward, they will work fine.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Engine Parts / Engine service |
01/16/2001 10:02:32
reposted for future e-searching
"Brian Denk"
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: RV-List: More
great customer service
ronics.com
01/15/2001 02:21 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
Listers,
I'm glad to say that my O-360 is now healthy again after discovering ZERO
compression on cylinder #1 during annual inspection. Gibson Aviation in El
Reno, OK was recommended to me to check out the cylinder. I sent it to them
after a quick call to let them know it was coming. "We'll do a one day
turn
on it and have a serviceable assembly to you by the end of the week" was
Marshall Gibson's reply. Cool! This was indeed the case. He called me
three
days later. The cylinder was cracked and he already had an overhauled
chrome
assembly with serviceable valves, new seats, guides, piston & pin, springs,
rings, gasket kit and yellow tag ready to go out that same day with my
approval. I had it two days later, on time, securely packaged and the bill
came to $681 as he had estimated from the start. Now, I wasn't quite ready
to have to deal with a cracked cylinder....especially after the holiday
shopping season, but Gibson Aviation made it as painless and trouble free
as
possible. I also managed to mangle the piston pin in a total
misunderstanding of which set of pin plugs to use. Marshall sent a new pin
with the pressed in type plugs...free of charge. Didn't cost me a dime.
"Just send me the other pin when you get around to it" was his only
request.
Yet another fine company to deal with. It's folks like the Gibsons and
Averys that make owning an airplane a wonderful thing.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
161 hrs with ALL FOUR cylinders working! Electronic ignition coming soon.
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | RV-4 canopy crack |
Earl,
Sorry to hear about your misfortune. I've been there. Don't panic.... yet.
Hope this makes sense to you.
There are a couple things you can do:
1) order a new bubble. Yuck. Not very cost effective.
2) stop drill the crack and hope it's covered by the skirt. This is what
most would do.
Here's what I did:
3) My area of expertise, I've done this twice now, once because of a crack
and once on purpose. It works great. Cut the @#$% thing off vertically at
the rear seat bulkhead. I learned this trick the hard way on my first
canopy, which I cracked (mine had a 4" crack) at the weld on the canopy
frame. If you do it like I did you will end up with a normal flip-over
canopy with the portion behind the rear seat permanently fixed. This is a
good thing.
You can use the rear portion for a hat rack, a place to put your rear seat
shoulder harnesses while the passenger gets in (instead of them hanging
outside the plane), the rear portion absolutely won't be rising up in flight
(a common problem), and it makes everything stronger and less floppy. I
also mount my GPS antenna under the back bubble.
It is difficult to get a perfect seal between the two canopy parts, but,
contrary to what you might think, this won't have any detrimental effects.
Air does not blow on the passengers neck since air is drawn out in that area
during flight. Water will not come in during flight. Washing the plane is
no problem as water runs off and not into the plane (unless you spray water
directly into the gap). It's only about an 1/8" or 3/16" gap. I put a
piece of electrical tape over it if I thought it would rain, which only is a
concern if you're away from your nice, warm hangar.
Procedure:
Cut off the rear portion in line with the rear seat bulkhead. Do a nice
job. You'll need both pieces. Don't get too uptight though, you can adjust
the rear piece quite a bit. In fact you could probably do a pretty sloppy
cut, as long as the front piece is cut straight. In other words, make your
sloppiness on the rear part, you can fix it all with a belt sander later.
Take the canopy frame and cut off the aluminum support tube behind the rear
seat and throw it away. Now, the front part of the bubble can be finished
normally. It will be much easier since it's about 16" shorter now and much
easier to handle.
After you get the front done, take the rear chunk you cut off and line it up
in position. Make a few temporary aluminum tabs to hold it to the
turtledeck. Now make a fiberglass or aluminum fairing to fasten it
PERMANENTLY to the turtle deck. I used aluminum.
Next get some aluminum tube from the hardware store. About 3/4" dia. Bend
two pieces to form bulkheads to support the front of the rear canopy piece
and the rear of the front canopy piece.
The only tricky part about all this is that the gussets that fasten the
bulkheads to the turtledeck or the canopy frame cannot interfere with the
swing of the canopy.
IMHO, this is actually much easier than making a standard, all one piece
installation. If I did another RV-4 I would get the canopy in approximate
position and cut it off as described whether it was cracked or not. I could
find NO downside to doing this.
What about the crack???? Well, if it's near the rear bulkhead like mine was,
don't worry about it. By removing the rear portion you've also removed a
floppy piece that would be putting stress on the crack everytime you move
the canopy. I stop drilled my crack and it never moved any further (only my
first canopy had a crack, the second one was fine).
There's more in the archive from way back when. Search under "canopy cracks
and how to fix them" or similar words.
Have fun,
Vince Frazier
3965 Caborn Road
Mount Vernon, IN 47620
812-985-7309 home
812-464-1839 work
Harmon Rocket II, RV-4, etc.....
http://www.usi.edu/CHEM/FACULTY/vfrazier/page1.html
"It is easier to beg for forgiveness than it is to ask for permission."
From: earl fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 canopy
Well I don't have to worry any more about the canopy cracking cause
it done cracked. I have it drilled from the front skirt around the rear
and back to the front skirt on the other side. I will drill the front
after I finish the rear skirts. The crack is about one inch vertical
near the rear seat and I think the fiberglass will cover it. Now my
problem is drilling the rear skirt. I find it impossible to drill
through the skirt with the canopy on the frame. I am starting to drill
the skirt directly to the frame but am afraid It won't line up due to
the thickness of the canopy. Those of you who have gotten through this,
how did you do it? Helllllllpppppppeeeee.
Earl RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Sharpie Alternative |
Had trouble finding the ultra-fine Sharpies? I found another pen that
looks to be a good substitute. It's the ZIG Memory System Millennium pen
(with a name that pompous, you'd better be good), available in art supply
shops. It's advertised as having "acid-free, fade-proof, bleed-proof,
lightfast, water-proof pigment-based ink," and being "archival quality."
The tip is very fine.
Tedd McHenry
Van's Air Force
Western Canada Wing
tedd(at)vansairforce.org
www.vansairforce.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
Bill,
The Apollo "Slim Line" series offers standby monitoring. I recently had an
SL-40 com installed in my RV-4. I love it. Period. Check out this web
site: http://www.iimorrow.com/sl40des.html
Louis
Louis I. Willig
larywil(at)home.com
RV-4, N180PF, 70 hrs. and climbing fast
I0-360, Hartzell C/S
(610) 668-4964
Penn Valley, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
I have a Sterba prop on my RV6A O-360. It's very smooth and performs well.
Ed Sterba has been good to work with. I would recommend his if your going
with a wood prop. At sometime in the future I may go to the metal prop to
eliminate maintenance.
John Furey
56HRS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | RE: [rv8list] New RV-8 Pictures Uploaded... |
I put Ray's e-mail address on the description of his folder on eGroups, but
I'll post it here too...
jrlynn(at)netzero.net
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Dysinger [mailto:larrykdysinger(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 8:38 AM
Subject: Re: [rv8list] New RV-8 Pictures Uploaded...
Bill,
Great pictures. They will be a big help to me and others.
I really like that hinged panel. I have been thinking of doing something
similar. It would provide better access than a door from the front baggage
compartment.
Do you know if Ray has an e-mail address? If so, can you share it with us?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Water in the fuel lines |
01/16/2001 11:36:02
I think the poster was worried about a slug of water of about a cup or more
that would flow, as you indicated, but it would also fill the float boal of
the carb up and the big fan goes out........
Rv660wm(at)AOL.COM
Sent by: To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
owner-rv-list-server@mat cc:
ronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Water
in the fuel lines
01/16/2001 04:59 AM
Please respond to
rv-list
In a message dated 1/16/01 2:42:34 AM Eastern Standard Time,
davideng@columbia-center.org writes:
> So whats your guys opinion. Am I looking into a possible engine shutdown
on
> takeoff? Will the water just get pushed through and get trapped by the
> gascolator?
IMHO the water will be pushed thru when you are flowing 8-10 gallons per
hours. It would be an easy test and maybe I will run it. Take a peice of
clear plastic hose with the same ID as the fuel lines. May a p-trap out of
the hose say maybe twice the height that you are concerned with water
sticking. Put water in the tube and now flow gasoline through it. Does it
stick or flow?
I believe it flows because I've heard people talk about engines burping as
a
slug of water passes. My big concern is that a small amount of water hangs
in the low spot and freezes a burst the line or blocks it if in flight.
Bernie Kerr, 6A flying, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil consumption |
01/16/2001 11:49:22
reposted for future e-searching
"Dennis Persyk"
t> cc:
Sent by: Subject: RV-List: Engine
Break-In Period
owner-rv-list-server@mat
ronics.com
01/15/2001 11:14 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
> I have not yet been able to prove the fuel efficiency claims for my LASAR
> system because after 26 hours my rings are not yet seated, so I'm still
> running 75% or more. I bought the LASAR because
> I felt it would provide better fuel efficiency, easier starting and
longer
> plug life. Time will tell.
Dennis,
I too have an O-360 from Bart with the LASAR. How can you tell your rings
have not seated, oil consumption? Just curious so I'll know when I get
there.
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
Two methods to establish breakin:
1) My oil consumption remains at one quart every 4 hours. This is two to
three times what it should be.
2) At 25 hours I did a compression check. Values were 70/80 to 72/80 and
we
could hear air hissing out the breather, indicating ring leakage.
I had spectral oil analysis performed at 25 hours and all parameters were
in
the range of normal wear rates. I'll continue that every oil change.
By the way, we had a hard time getting the oil filter off. I had read an
earlier posting about that problem with Bart's engine. If your engine is
not mounted yet, you might loosen the filter, apply DC4 and retorque. You
must check for filter leaks after each oil change by running the engine for
a minute or two and thus there is little danger in too loose a filter
torque -- too tight can make it difficult to remove the filter.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 26 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil consumption |
01/16/2001 11:49:49
"Dennis Persyk"
t> cc:
Sent by: Subject: RV-List: Engine
Break-In Period
owner-rv-list-server@mat
ronics.com
01/15/2001 11:14 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
> I have not yet been able to prove the fuel efficiency claims for my LASAR
> system because after 26 hours my rings are not yet seated, so I'm still
> running 75% or more. I bought the LASAR because
> I felt it would provide better fuel efficiency, easier starting and
longer
> plug life. Time will tell.
Dennis,
I too have an O-360 from Bart with the LASAR. How can you tell your rings
have not seated, oil consumption? Just curious so I'll know when I get
there.
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
Two methods to establish breakin:
1) My oil consumption remains at one quart every 4 hours. This is two to
three times what it should be.
2) At 25 hours I did a compression check. Values were 70/80 to 72/80 and
we
could hear air hissing out the breather, indicating ring leakage.
I had spectral oil analysis performed at 25 hours and all parameters were
in
the range of normal wear rates. I'll continue that every oil change.
By the way, we had a hard time getting the oil filter off. I had read an
earlier posting about that problem with Bart's engine. If your engine is
not mounted yet, you might loosen the filter, apply DC4 and retorque. You
must check for filter leaks after each oil change by running the engine for
a minute or two and thus there is little danger in too loose a filter
torque -- too tight can make it difficult to remove the filter.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 26 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Linings |
> Anyone have the replacement number for the brake linings?
#66-106
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vetterman 6-A Hanger |
> Does anyone have a web site showing a picture of the hanger system for the
> Vetterman exhaust on a 6-A?
I have a picture, not a great one, of it on my web site,
http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/fwallfwd.html. However mine is a
modified version -- his original system came with curved tubes for the
crosspieces, which he later replaced with straight tubes/angles. My mod was
before he did his change and involved getting a second set of 'P' clamps and
running a straight tube between them for the crosspiece. Anyway you're
welcome to have a look.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | Mac Servo Wiring |
| From: | "Ed O'Connor" <edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com> |
I am working on wiring the tail of my RV-8 and cannot find a suitable
connector for the MAC servo wiring. The 5 wire cable I got from Mac appears
to be a #26 and hard to work with. I tried a 5 pin DIN but could not solder
the male end. I ruined two connectors with my outstanding Solder technique
of very small parts. I then switched to a 9 pin Sub D connector with
crimped pins but did not have the proper crimper for the small pins
(Naturally) and so used needle nose pliers but not satisfied with the
result. So am looking for (1), suggested connectors others have used at the
tail of the airplane to the servo and (2), what kind and connector on MAC
servo itself and, (3) how to route the wire to the motor so the elevator is
removable. I am assuming I have to have two connectors, one at the elevator
somewhere so I can remove the elevator only and one at the airplane on the
deck under the Vert Stablizer so I can remove the Horz Stab if necessary. I
went to Bob's site to order some miniature crimp pins and his pin crimper
but they listed for #24 wire and larger. Is there a butt splice for #26
wire to enlarge to #22 so I have something I can work with. I hate that
little wires. Maby its because my eyes are getting bad with age. Glasses
and magnifing glasses just don't seem to cut it. A pictue would be worth a
thousand words.
One suggestion was to install a terminal strip on the rear deck just behind
the bars the Horzontal attaches to and junction there to the Servo but still
need a connector at the servo in the elevator so the servo can be removed
without removing the tail faring. Need help desperatly as I am in an area
where originality is required and I'm not too good at that, but I follow
directions very well, Help
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Water in the fuel lines |
> The question I am working up to is: Will the water that might get into
these various lines be a problem?
> David Schilling
David,
This exact concern caused me to redesign the fuel system (OH NOOOO!!!!) so
that the gasolator is at the low point of the system up to the engine fuel
pump. Here it is....
Straight fitting out of the tanks attached to steel braided hose (snaked
inside the gear leg weldments) to a straight fitting into Vans fuel selector
(I didn't like all those elbows Van shows off the fuel selector)
A 90 degree adapter to aluminum tube through the gear leg weldments through
the fuselage to a 90 adapter to the Andair gasolator. (lowpoint)
A 90 degree adapter to a curved aluminum tube (uphill) to the Facet pump
mounted 45 degrees on the 6A stiffener panel
Aluminum tube uphill to the firewall to a running T bulkhead fitting.
A 90 degree hose end attached to steel braided hose to another 90 degree
hose end to the engine fuel pump (high point)
Now the tank quick drains get the water out of the tanks and the gasolator
gets it out of the rest of the system to the engine fuel pump without having
to start the boost pump.
I have just ordered a GRT 4000 and will be inserting the fuel flow
transducer......somewhere. The archives do not provide any definitive
answer as to where.
Ross
6A N9PT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mac Servo Wiring |
> So am looking for (1), suggested connectors others have used at the
> tail of the airplane to the servo and (2), what kind and connector on MAC
> servo itself and, (3) how to route the wire to the motor so the elevator
is
> removable.
1) I butt spiced the Mac wires and installed a service loop. If I have to
replace the Mac, cut and splice again
2) Not sure what you mean. I go from the Mac to butt spices to the
switches and controller
3) Where is your motor? I used the Gretz alternative so the Mac is on the
HS deck. The elevator is removable but is a pain due to removal of the
control cable.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Randy,
I found this in the archives last week, as I just changed pads as well at 150hrs.
Pads still had 30% material left. Rivets come with the replacements, but
you'll need the rivet setting tool.
BTW, I ordered the 4-6 rivets like Gary mentioned, but they were too long. Glad
rivets came with linings.
Laird (windshield repair almost finished)
RV-6 N515L 150 hrs
PS Thanks for all the advice about Sun n Fun. Looks like a trip to the Bahamas
is in order.
In a message dated 3/12/99 9:35:20 AM Pacific Standard Time,
luker.michael(at)mayo.edu writes:
<>>
IMO the Cleveland parts are clearly superior to the Rapco replacements in both
appearance and wear. The lining P/N is 66-106 (you need four) and the rivet
P/N is 4-6 (you need 12) and of course the rivet set for your squeezer from
Cleaveland Tool or Avery's.
-GV
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Tue, Jan 16, 2001 8:07 AM
Subject: RV-List: Brake Linings
Anyone have the replacement number for the brake linings? The Spruce catalog
lists 4 different part numbers for the 5" Clevelands and I'm at work.
Please send direct.
Thanks in advance.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (110 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mac Servo Wiring |
I don't know the part numbers, but I went to a RadioShack.COM (the store,
not a website--has more stuff than a standard Radio Schack) and got six-pin
connectors (male/female) with the pins, plus the correct crimping tool. You
have to slightly enlarge the hole in the elevator to pass the connector
through, but it seems to work fine. I know there are only five wires . . .
I put the two whites on the same row (with a space between them), then the
three colored wires on their own separate row. I used a similar process for
a tail mounted light (only there I used a single pin connector). The
counter person at RadioShack can get you squared away.
Rick Jory, Highlands Ranch, CO
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed O'Connor <edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 10:06 AM
Subject: RV-List: Mac Servo Wiring
>
> I am working on wiring the tail of my RV-8 and cannot find a suitable
> connector for the MAC servo wiring. The 5 wire cable I got from Mac
appears
> to be a #26 and hard to work with. I tried a 5 pin DIN but could not
solder
> the male end. I ruined two connectors with my outstanding Solder
technique
> of very small parts. I then switched to a 9 pin Sub D connector with
> crimped pins but did not have the proper crimper for the small pins
> (Naturally) and so used needle nose pliers but not satisfied with the
> result. So am looking for (1), suggested connectors others have used at
the
> tail of the airplane to the servo and (2), what kind and connector on MAC
> servo itself and, (3) how to route the wire to the motor so the elevator
is
> removable. I am assuming I have to have two connectors, one at the
elevator
> somewhere so I can remove the elevator only and one at the airplane on the
> deck under the Vert Stablizer so I can remove the Horz Stab if necessary.
I
> went to Bob's site to order some miniature crimp pins and his pin crimper
> but they listed for #24 wire and larger. Is there a butt splice for #26
> wire to enlarge to #22 so I have something I can work with. I hate that
> little wires. Maby its because my eyes are getting bad with age. Glasses
> and magnifing glasses just don't seem to cut it. A pictue would be worth
a
> thousand words.
>
> One suggestion was to install a terminal strip on the rear deck just
behind
> the bars the Horzontal attaches to and junction there to the Servo but
still
> need a connector at the servo in the elevator so the servo can be removed
> without removing the tail faring. Need help desperatly as I am in an area
> where originality is required and I'm not too good at that, but I follow
> directions very well, Help
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Schilling" <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Mac Servo Wiring |
I used the plugs that are used in model airplanes/ RC. I got them at the
local hobby shop, they are gold plated and work great! You will need a
small pencil type iron to solder them though. Karl RV-8 711KN
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed O'Connor
> Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 12:07
> To: RV-List
> Subject: RV-List: Mac Servo Wiring
>
>
>
>
> I am working on wiring the tail of my RV-8 and cannot find a suitable
> connector for the MAC servo wiring. The 5 wire cable I got from
> Mac appears
> to be a #26 and hard to work with. I tried a 5 pin DIN but could
> not solder
> the male end. I ruined two connectors with my outstanding Solder
> technique
> of very small parts. I then switched to a 9 pin Sub D connector with
> crimped pins but did not have the proper crimper for the small pins
> (Naturally) and so used needle nose pliers but not satisfied with the
> result. So am looking for (1), suggested connectors others have
> used at the
> tail of the airplane to the servo and (2), what kind and connector on MAC
> servo itself and, (3) how to route the wire to the motor so the
> elevator is
> removable. I am assuming I have to have two connectors, one at
> the elevator
> somewhere so I can remove the elevator only and one at the airplane on the
> deck under the Vert Stablizer so I can remove the Horz Stab if
> necessary. I
> went to Bob's site to order some miniature crimp pins and his pin crimper
> but they listed for #24 wire and larger. Is there a butt splice for #26
> wire to enlarge to #22 so I have something I can work with. I hate that
> little wires. Maby its because my eyes are getting bad with age. Glasses
> and magnifing glasses just don't seem to cut it. A pictue would
> be worth a
> thousand words.
>
> One suggestion was to install a terminal strip on the rear deck
> just behind
> the bars the Horzontal attaches to and junction there to the
> Servo but still
> need a connector at the servo in the elevator so the servo can be removed
> without removing the tail faring. Need help desperatly as I am in an area
> where originality is required and I'm not too good at that, but I follow
> directions very well, Help
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Mac Servo Wiring |
Ed,
Local builders use Molex plugs. Works out well. We use several different
sizes and pin numbers throughout the planes. They are available though
digakey and other places. Remember to use the larger pin type connectors if
you are hooking up anything that uses much current (landing lights, pitot
heat, etc.).
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (systems)
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed O'Connor
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 12:07 PM
Subject: RV-List: Mac Servo Wiring
I am working on wiring the tail of my RV-8 and cannot find a suitable
connector for the MAC servo wiring. The 5 wire cable I got from Mac appears
to be a #26 and hard to work with. I tried a 5 pin DIN but could not solder
the male end. I ruined two connectors with my outstanding Solder technique
of very small parts. I then switched to a 9 pin Sub D connector with
crimped pins but did not have the proper crimper for the small pins
(Naturally) and so used needle nose pliers but not satisfied with the
result. So am looking for (1), suggested connectors others have used at the
tail of the airplane to the servo and (2), what kind and connector on MAC
servo itself and, (3) how to route the wire to the motor so the elevator is
removable. I am assuming I have to have two connectors, one at the elevator
somewhere so I can remove the elevator only and one at the airplane on the
deck under the Vert Stablizer so I can remove the Horz Stab if necessary. I
went to Bob's site to order some miniature crimp pins and his pin crimper
but they listed for #24 wire and larger. Is there a butt splice for #26
wire to enlarge to #22 so I have something I can work with. I hate that
little wires. Maby its because my eyes are getting bad with age. Glasses
and magnifing glasses just don't seem to cut it. A pictue would be worth a
thousand words.
One suggestion was to install a terminal strip on the rear deck just behind
the bars the Horzontal attaches to and junction there to the Servo but still
need a connector at the servo in the elevator so the servo can be removed
without removing the tail faring. Need help desperatly as I am in an area
where originality is required and I'm not too good at that, but I follow
directions very well, Help
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mac Servo Wiring |
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed O'Connor <edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com>
Date: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 11:39 AM
Subject: RV-List: Mac Servo Wiring
>
>I am working on wiring the tail of my RV-8 and cannot find a suitable
>connector for the MAC servo wiring>
I soldered the wires together and applied heat shrink tubing. I also left
about a 6-inch service loop. You can see the installation in my 6A at Mike
Nellis' super RV site http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/PersykRV6.htm
The #26 wires are a real pain! Soldering them to the rocker switch and
position indicator requires good soldering technique as well.
As an aside, you might visit the Mac servo web site and download the
nomograph which depicts trim tab angular deflection as a function of radius
of gyration on the tab horn. For the 6A, the maximum angulation possible is
way less than that specified in my 6A building instructions. Consequently,
in my forward-cg 6A, I lack sufficient trim authority at landing speeds when
I fly solo. In solo mode my cg is 20% aft of the forward limit. When I
have a passenger of just 140 lbs, the cg shifts to 39% aft of forward limit
and all is well. Just a heads up that the old-fashioned manual trim has
some advantages!
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell still only 26 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
try the apollo sl-40
Anybody know which comm radios allow you to monitor the standby channel?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wing conduit (light wires) |
Another idea that I used was to purchase some 1/4" PVC piping and drill
holes for sliding it down through your wing. It is mega cheap and use some
pro seal to hold it in place. It makes the wiring slide through much easier
than anything ribbed too! Just and idea that others had for me!
-Mike
RV-4, skinning second wing!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
01/16/2001 02:10:42 PM
Can anyone tell me what aeroquip 303 hose is commonly used for in
experimental aircraft construction? Sounds like ( according to Lycoming )
it's bad, bad, bad for fuel applications but what about oil? It's a
relatively high pressure hose as I understand it.
Thx,
Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( FWF )
O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | noeldrew <noeldrew(at)iafrica.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 canopy crack |
Earl,
I can share your feelings on a canopy crack. My RV6 windscreen decided to
start a crack from the roll bar down some 6 inches that probably started
from somebody else resting too hard on the edge. This is an early 1/4 inch
windscreen that Van offered when the slider was first introduced and to the
best of my knowledge is no longer obtainable.
I was considering my options when a glider pilot looked at it and said
"weld" it like the glider owners do. I suppose there is always a first time
for everything so I started seeking advice.
I first located some liquid methyl methacrylate monomer that is the raw
material used in the manufacture of sheet plexiglas. It is not the glue
that is sometimes supplied nor is it solvent. It is called stabilised
monomer. Having stop drilled the crack, I cut a V shaped groove on the line
of the crack leaving a narrow gap at the bottom and about 3/16" wide at the
top. I located a thick needle for a hypodermic syringe and was able to lay
the viscous liquid monomer in the gap with tip of the needle submerged to
avoid bubbles. After somewhat of a learning curve I was able to generate a
reasonable weld.
The problems you will encounter will be bubbles trapped in the liquid, a
flow of liquid down the slope of the windscreen, the monomer going solid in
the syringe, needle, and on the surface of the jar it is supplied in. I
should mention that the monomer will evaporate and shrink in the groove if
you do not get it to set quickly by exposing it to ultraviolet radiation.
At different times I used the sun (very quick) and a crack testing lamp from
the nearby engine shop. Less than a minute in Durban's sun will have it too
stiff to go anywhere while it will remain liquid for hours in the
ultraviolet free workshop. After a few false starts that were rectified by
starting over with the Dremel, the result looked like a metal weld with a
ridge of plexiglas on both sides. Careful shaving and sanding gave me a
surface that polished up very well after it had set properly.
The end result is a line in my canopy that is smooth and transparent but it
deflects the light as is does not entirely match the colour or refractive
index of the original material. I am satisfied with the strength of the
join and now regard the repair as an honourable scar on my companion and a
satisfactory compromise to the huge task of replacing the windscreen.
Just a thought to share.
Good luck.
Noel Drew
noeldrew(at)iafrica.com
RV6 ZU-APF
Durban, South Africa
----- Original Message -----
From: Frazier, Vincent A <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
Sent: 16 January 2001 05:08
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 canopy crack
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 canopy crack |
Noel,
Very few posts from the RV list go in my 'Valuable saved RV info' folder.
This one went straight in there. I am sure others feel the same
way....thanks for a great idea and a fix that I will hopefully never need to
use. :-)
Bill
-4 wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "noeldrew" <noeldrew(at)iafrica.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 3:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 canopy crack
>
> Earl,
>
> I can share your feelings on a canopy crack. My RV6 windscreen decided to
> start a crack from the roll bar down some 6 inches that probably started
> from somebody else resting too hard on the edge. This is an early 1/4
inch
> windscreen that Van offered when the slider was first introduced and to
the
> best of my knowledge is no longer obtainable.
>
> I was considering my options when a glider pilot looked at it and said
> "weld" it like the glider owners do. I suppose there is always a first
time
> for everything so I started seeking advice.
>
> I first located some liquid methyl methacrylate monomer that is the raw
> material used in the manufacture of sheet plexiglas. It is not the glue
> that is sometimes supplied nor is it solvent. It is called stabilised
> monomer. Having stop drilled the crack, I cut a V shaped groove on the
line
> of the crack leaving a narrow gap at the bottom and about 3/16" wide at
the
> top. I located a thick needle for a hypodermic syringe and was able to
lay
> the viscous liquid monomer in the gap with tip of the needle submerged to
> avoid bubbles. After somewhat of a learning curve I was able to generate
a
> reasonable weld.
>
> The problems you will encounter will be bubbles trapped in the liquid, a
> flow of liquid down the slope of the windscreen, the monomer going solid
in
> the syringe, needle, and on the surface of the jar it is supplied in. I
> should mention that the monomer will evaporate and shrink in the groove if
> you do not get it to set quickly by exposing it to ultraviolet radiation.
> At different times I used the sun (very quick) and a crack testing lamp
from
> the nearby engine shop. Less than a minute in Durban's sun will have it
too
> stiff to go anywhere while it will remain liquid for hours in the
> ultraviolet free workshop. After a few false starts that were rectified
by
> starting over with the Dremel, the result looked like a metal weld with a
> ridge of plexiglas on both sides. Careful shaving and sanding gave me a
> surface that polished up very well after it had set properly.
>
> The end result is a line in my canopy that is smooth and transparent but
it
> deflects the light as is does not entirely match the colour or refractive
> index of the original material. I am satisfied with the strength of the
> join and now regard the repair as an honourable scar on my companion and a
> satisfactory compromise to the huge task of replacing the windscreen.
>
> Just a thought to share.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Noel Drew
> noeldrew(at)iafrica.com
> RV6 ZU-APF
> Durban, South Africa
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Frazier, Vincent A <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
> To:
> Sent: 16 January 2001 05:08
> Subject: RV-List: RV-4 canopy crack
>
>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I need help deciding what to replace my Garmin 195 with. I can't decide!!
The logical choice is the 295, which I really like. But the
http://www.AnywhereMap.com stuff running on an IPAQ looks intriguing too.
But, I get the feeling that it's an address book first and GPS second. Can
I really use a stylus or finger nail to point/click/drag/drop/etc while
flying a plane? I'd prefer the tactile feel of the rubber buttons on the
Garmin 295...I think. But the IPAQ can do double duty with email,
addresses, etc...and is cheaper...but if it is not useful in the plane, I've
wasted my money.
Has anyone else decided between the two? Any regrets?
More comparisons here: http://www.anywheremap.com/GPS295_Compare.PDF
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
I've thought about that as well. I know I'd like to use the iPaq but I'd be
afraid I'd drop the stylus while trying to use it. Can the arrow keys on
the front of the iPaq be used to select the functions on the AnywhereMap
software?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bowen [mailto:Larry(at)bowenaero.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 2:20 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: GPS Agony
I need help deciding what to replace my Garmin 195 with. I
can't decide!!
The logical choice is the 295, which I really like. But
the
http://www.AnywhereMap.com stuff running on an IPAQ looks
intriguing too.
But, I get the feeling that it's an address book first and
GPS second. Can
I really use a stylus or finger nail to
point/click/drag/drop/etc while
flying a plane? I'd prefer the tactile feel of the rubber
buttons on the
Garmin 295...I think. But the IPAQ can do double duty with
email,
addresses, etc...and is cheaper...but if it is not useful in
the plane, I've
wasted my money.
Has anyone else decided between the two? Any regrets?
More comparisons here:
http://www.anywheremap.com/GPS295_Compare.PDF
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rywessel(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Kinking Teflon Hose |
Listers-
After reading a recent thread about Teflon hoses, I got a little nervous about
a slightly kinked -8 oil hose that I recently installed. I did not want to be
worrying about an oil hose blowing off over the Rockies, so I decided to trash
it. The funny thing is that I kinked just playing with it like a toy in garage-
$50 down the drain, oh well. . .
Just to satisfy my curiosity, I decided to tear it apart to see if it was cracked.
Fortunately (unfortunately in my case) it was not cracked. Doing some unscientific
testing on the hose, I bent it until it kinked (about 3X min bend radius).
At the moment the hose kinked, I heard a slight cracking noise. This resulted
in a delaminating of the hose tube and wire braid. A couple more bends caused
an open crack in the tube.
Anyone considering Teflon hoses such as the Aeroquip 666 crimp hoses from ACS,
should definitely trash any hose that is kinked. Considering the advantages of
crimped Teflon hose (unlimited service life, high pressure rating, and fluid
compatibility) I re-ordered the same hose. I will make sure not to kink it this
time!
Robin Wessel
RV-6A finishing
Tigard, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kinking Teflon Hose |
> Anyone considering Teflon hoses such as the Aeroquip 666 crimp hoses from
ACS, should definitely trash any hose that is kinked. Considering the
advantages of crimped Teflon hose (unlimited service life, high pressure
rating, and fluid compatibility) I re-ordered the same hose. I will make
sure not to kink it this time!
>
> Robin Wessel
I have not tried this but read about it recently. To place a bend in a
Teflon hose, bend it as you want it, hold the bend with some string, place
in oven (???degrees) for ???? minutes. This will set the bend. I am not
using Teflon hoses.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
Scott,
You can reprogram the IPAQ keys for zooming, panning, program start, etc.
Ed Cole
Maxim Integrated Products
Bldg. 120 Ext. 6605
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Van Artsdalen, Scott [SMTP:svanarts(at)unionsafe.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 3:19 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: GPS Agony
>
>
>
> I've thought about that as well. I know I'd like to use the iPaq but I'd
> be
> afraid I'd drop the stylus while trying to use it. Can the arrow keys on
> the front of the iPaq be used to select the functions on the AnywhereMap
> software?
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Bowen [mailto:Larry(at)bowenaero.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 2:20 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: GPS Agony
>
>
>
> I need help deciding what to replace my Garmin 195 with.
> I
> can't decide!!
>
> The logical choice is the 295, which I really like. But
> the
> http://www.AnywhereMap.com stuff running on an IPAQ looks
> intriguing too.
> But, I get the feeling that it's an address book first and
> GPS second. Can
> I really use a stylus or finger nail to
> point/click/drag/drop/etc while
> flying a plane? I'd prefer the tactile feel of the rubber
> buttons on the
> Garmin 295...I think. But the IPAQ can do double duty
> with
> email,
> addresses, etc...and is cheaper...but if it is not useful
> in
> the plane, I've
> wasted my money.
>
> Has anyone else decided between the two? Any regrets?
>
> More comparisons here:
> http://www.anywheremap.com/GPS295_Compare.PDF
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 fuse
> Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> Web: http://BowenAero.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>I need help deciding what to replace my Garmin 195 with. I can't decide!!
>
>The logical choice is the 295, which I really like. But the
>http://www.AnywhereMap.com stuff running on an IPAQ looks intriguing too.
>But, I get the feeling that it's an address book first and GPS second. Can
>I really use a stylus or finger nail to point/click/drag/drop/etc while
>flying a plane? I'd prefer the tactile feel of the rubber buttons on the
>Garmin 295...I think. But the IPAQ can do double duty with email,
>addresses, etc...and is cheaper...but if it is not useful in the plane,
>I've
>wasted my money.
>
>Has anyone else decided between the two? Any regrets?
>
>More comparisons here: http://www.anywheremap.com/GPS295_Compare.PDF
>
>Larry Bowen
>RV-8 fuse
>Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>Web: http://BowenAero.com
Larry,
I've found that on many flights, with any amount of turbulence, I need
something substantial to brace my hand on and solid rubber buttons to press
to interface a GPS. The color moving map GPS software for the pocket PC
sure looks slick, but it might be a real pain to deal with in less than
perfectly smooth air (while using a stylus pen). I have my weight and
balance spreadsheet loaded into my Palm IIIxe and it works fine for that
purpose alone, then it gets clipped on my belt and stays there during the
flight. If a pocket PC was available with a more conventional keyboard that
could run the moving map software and not take up a huge amount of panel
real estate, that would be worth serious consideration. It's probably out
there, I just haven't seen it yet.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroquip 303 |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 3:11 PM
Subject: RV-List: Aeroquip 303
>
> Can anyone tell me what aeroquip 303 hose is commonly used for in
> experimental aircraft construction? Sounds like ( according to Lycoming )
> it's bad, bad, bad for fuel applications but what about oil? It's a
> relatively high pressure hose as I understand it.
Jim, 303 hose is very common on fuel and oil lines. They can handle way more
pressure than can be generated in an engine compartment. Any line that
carries
fuel should be covered with fireslieve.Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Question |
Dennis,
I have the IO-360 A1A installed. From what I have been able to determine,
and I admit that the Lycoming charts are terrible at best, the fuel burn
according to them for 65% power at 2000 feet should be about 9.2 gph. Maybe
I read the charts wrong. Wouldn't be the first time. But I can verify that
this engine is burning 7.6 to 7.7 gph at 2000 feet at 23 squared right now
and I'm getting about 160 mph at that setting without wheel pants or leg
fairings.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
>From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Electronic Ignition Question
>Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 11:16:56 -0600
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Saturday, January 13, 2001 11:57 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Electronic Ignition Question
>
>
> >
> >Bert,
> >
> >I have the LSE Ignition in my -8A with an IO-360 and it is great!. I
> >consistantly get a fuel consumption reading of about 1.5 gallons per hour
> >less than the Lycoming charts call out. At 65% power I am buring just
>7.6
> >ghp and my EGTs and CHTs are all right in the ball park. Mine was easy
>to
> >install although I think I will go with the Hall effect sensor next time
> >instead of the flywheel sensors. They are a bit on the pricey side but
>the
> >power and fuel efficiency more than make up for it. By the way I only
>have
> >one electronic and one magneto and I am getting those figures.
> >
> >Mike Robertson
> >RV-8A
> >15.4 hours
>
>
>With all due respect Mike, your fuel burn rate sounds too good to be true.
>I tired to verify the above numbers with the Lycoming Operator's Manual p/n
>2960-12, 5th edition, and I can not find any IO-360 versions that burn 9.1
>gph (7.6 + 1.5 = 9.1) at 65% power. My manual lists fuel burn rates for
>the
>IO-360 series as 9.5, 8.5, or 7.6 gph @ 65% depending on model. Which
>model do you have and what altitude did you obtain the values?
>
>I have the Unison LASAR system on my O360A1A. The price from Bart LaLonde
>was much cheaper than Van's price. Unison specs (LASAR manual 1512) a 7.5%
>fuel burn improvement at best economy at 8000 feet, 15% at 12,000 feet.
>Your improvement seems to be (1.5)/(7.6 )= 20% -- that's almost three
>times
>better than Unison claims, and I don't believe you can achieve 65% power at
>12,000 feet. Hence my skepticism. The degree of advance is limited by
>detonation and while Unison may be conservative because they go into
>certificated planes, a factor of three improvement seems to be very high.
>
>I have not yet been able to prove the fuel efficiency claims for my LASAR
>system because after 26 hours my rings are not yet seated, so I'm still
>running 75% or more. I bought the LASAR because
>I felt it would provide better fuel efficiency, easier starting and longer
>plug life. Time will tell.
>
>Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 26 hours
>Hampshire, IL C38
>
>
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EIS fuel flow option |
> Can anyone tell me the best way to mount the fuel flow module for the
> EIS system? The instructions say to mount it with the wires up which
> puts the bolt holes vertical as well. It also says to mount it 10"
> from any turbulence sources (pumps, tubing bends) and then a straight
> 6" run after the module.
I mounted my transducer "inside" the left gear weldment, attached to a
little bracket suspended from a couple of the -3 bolts that hold the
weldment to the top row of bolt holes in the wing spar. The fuel goes
down from the stock Van's fuel selector, turns left at the fuel selector
pedestal, then heads towards the EIS flow transducer (pretty much a
straight shot). After the transducer the fuel continues left and slightly
forward, goes through a Fram G-3 fuel filter (to dampen pulses from
the fuel pumps), forward, thru the boost pump, forward some more,
thru the firewall, thru the gascolator, to the mechanical (engine driven)
fuel pump, and to the carb.
My EIS showed zero fuel flow during my last flight. I'd recently
completed a condition inspection on the plane. It appears that a little
bit of fuel lube (used to lubricate the fuel selector valve) got into the
transducer. Back flushing the transducer with gasoline seems to have
fixed the problem. Flows indication appears normal now. Lesson
learned: apply fuel lube VERY sparingly to the fuel selector valve.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
"Don't throw your vote away...
Let the Supreme Court throw it away for you."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
Larry, (and the list)
I have all three. 195, 295, AnywhereMap (on IPAQ)
Summary:
- My 195 is still mounted in my Piper
- The 295 really is better at MOST things
- The AnywhereMap-on-IPAQ is nice but is a PDA first.
More ...
I bought a 195 some time ago. A REALLY SIGNIFICANT step forward in handheld
GPS technology for aviators in my opinion. During a Sun-N-Fun a year or two
ago, I was about to *upgrade the database* in my 195 because I did not feel
the 295 would be worth the extra money. (Note though that I am a gadget
junkie).
I made the mistake of asking the person who was about to do the update ...
"so what do you think about the 295, instead of doing this update". His
response to me was that I should go over to the Garmin booth and take a look
before I did it. If I chose to upgrade to the 295 they would give me a good
amount for my 195. Hmmm. I took the look-see and YES it eas better in many
subtle ways ... like tabs at the top of multiple pages for more logical
access to info. I ended up buying it.
BUT ... with the 195 wire to the plane I have NOT to this date unhooked it
(so I did not get my trade-in $$ after all). I am "comfortable with the 195
and in doing things quickly from memory ... sorta automatically. And
although it is mmonochrome, the resolution seems better (may be just the
portrait vs landscape orientation)
The 295 has more features and if I were starting from scratch is what I
would buy for my aviation handheld GPS.
The AnywhereMap caught my eye at OSH. But only on the IPAQ that the
developer had "hidden". They have some nice features that they have added
as mentioned in an earlier post. It works as advertised. They are supportive
as a company, *and* some of the features like the cones of safety are
unique.
Here's the rub (or touch and feel so to speak). The IPAQ is NOT a rugged
GARMIN. It is VERY nice in MANY ways but some of the key features seem to be
hard to get at iin a bumpy plane. Now the ControlVision people only have a
few buttons to work with (and they did not get to decide what was going to
be on the IPAQ ;-) ). Touching some things with a stylus of fingertip shile
flying is more difficult for me than using the GARMIN. Now if they would
STANDARDIZE on a reprogram of the buttons for things like "nearest, goto,
enter, quit, page" it would help a lot and make the choice a bit more
difficult.
The fact that you can ugrade the s/w and the database online is a feature.
Means that you potentially get more enhancements faster.
If you HAVE the IPAQ, it is a GREAT deal! If your primary goal is aviation
and you do not have the IPAQ, I think the GARMIN is a bit better because it
is a targetted device.
Of course this whole discussion is like asking is a PocketPC better than a
PalmPilot ... it all depends upon intended usage ... mission profile.
I like them all.
Your mileage may vary, so I strongly suggest taking a test flight with
someone.
James
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 5:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: GPS Agony
I need help deciding what to replace my Garmin 195 with. I can't decide!!
The logical choice is the 295, which I really like. But the
http://www.AnywhereMap.com stuff running on an IPAQ looks intriguing too.
But, I get the feeling that it's an address book first and GPS second. Can
I really use a stylus or finger nail to point/click/drag/drop/etc while
flying a plane? I'd prefer the tactile feel of the rubber buttons on the
Garmin 295...I think. But the IPAQ can do double duty with email,
addresses, etc...and is cheaper...but if it is not useful in the plane, I've
wasted my money.
Has anyone else decided between the two? Any regrets?
More comparisons here: http://www.anywheremap.com/GPS295_Compare.PDF
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Riveting that back bulkhead |
I riveted my top rear fuse skin on my -4 this past weekend but neither I,
nor the skinny guy that helped me could get to that last bulkhead (the one
on top just ahead of the vertical stab.) I'm inclined to use blind rivets
here. Would the Cherry rivets Van's suffice? Suggestions?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
On 16 Jan 2001, at 17:20, Larry Bowen wrote:
> I need help deciding what to replace my Garmin 195 with. I can't
> decide!!
I didn't see IFR approaches listed on the IPAQ. That's a big deal for
me. If my VOR/ILS calls it quits I can still shoot an approach with my
Garmin 195.
Another item: I drive my Navaid autopilot with my Garmin 195 output.
Will the IPAQ do that? It's a great feature to have.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
"Don't throw your vote away...
Let the Supreme Court throw it away for you."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "skybolt-aviator" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
----- Original Message ----- >
> More comparisons here: http://www.anywheremap.com/GPS295_Compare.PDF
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 fuse
> Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> Web: http://BowenAero.com
>
> I bought the anywhere map at S&F last year and have yet to have any luck
with it in the plane.At the time they recommended the Casio pda.It is
useless in RV cockpit as you can not see it.It is very hard to program while
flying and there is wires running every where..Just my humble opinion.
Ollie&Lorene Washburn
RV6-A,N795LW,@FD77.
O-360,180HP,C/S,300+hrs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cockpit placards |
Scott,
To put it mildly, there isn't one really. You have to have the experiemntal
placard for your pax and the one that says this aircraft isn't airworthy.
For you panel and such the rule of thumb is to mark all switches to function
and "on-off", your fuel selector, and you circuit breakers as to what they
control. After that it is really up to you. Best suggestion I can think of
is to take a look at a nice aircraft and see how there's is.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
15.4 hours
>From: ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: cockpit placards
>Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 14:10:58 EST
>
>
>dear listers
>where can i get a list of neccessary instrument panel and cockpit placards?
>thanks
>scott
>tampa rv6a finishing
>oh yeah don't mention fiberglass coweling to me for at least a couple
>weeks.
>
>
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroquip 303 |
Aeroquip 303 is very common for oil lines throughout the aviation field for
G/A aircraft.
>From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Aeroquip 303
>Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 14:11:31 -0600 01/16/2001 02:10:42 PM
>
>
>Can anyone tell me what aeroquip 303 hose is commonly used for in
>experimental aircraft construction? Sounds like ( according to Lycoming )
>it's bad, bad, bad for fuel applications but what about oil? It's a
>relatively high pressure hose as I understand it.
>
>Thx,
>
>Jim Andrews
>RV-8A ( FWF )
>O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
>N89JA reserved
>
>
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Question |
Mike,
According to GV's chart which he posted a while back and I copied down as
the gospel, 23 squared is 68% and burn is 9.5 gph. My figures for burn rate
are from the Lycoming manual's tabular listing -- the graphs are worthless.
You have an incredibly fuel-efficient engine, my friend! Anyone else
getting 7.7 gph at 65% with an O360A1A?
If your 160 mph is TRUE airspeed, then that is about what I see -- I true
out at 145 KTAS at 75% power, and doing the arithmetic (speed proportional
to cube root and all that stuff), we are about the same speed-wise. I am
interested in how much faster the plane will go with gear leg fairings and
wheel fairings.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 7:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electronic Ignition Question
>
>Dennis,
>
>I have the IO-360 A1A installed. From what I have been able to determine,
>and I admit that the Lycoming charts are terrible at best, the fuel burn
>according to them for 65% power at 2000 feet should be about 9.2 gph.
Maybe
>I read the charts wrong. Wouldn't be the first time. But I can verify that
>this engine is burning 7.6 to 7.7 gph at 2000 feet at 23 squared right now
>and I'm getting about 160 mph at that setting without wheel pants or leg
>fairings.
>
>Mike Robertson
>RV-8A N809RS
>
>
>>From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>To:
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Electronic Ignition Question
>>Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 11:16:56 -0600
>>
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Date: Saturday, January 13, 2001 11:57 PM
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Electronic Ignition Question
>>
>>
>> >
>> >Bert,
>> >
>> >I have the LSE Ignition in my -8A with an IO-360 and it is great!. I
>> >consistantly get a fuel consumption reading of about 1.5 gallons per
hour
>> >less than the Lycoming charts call out. At 65% power I am buring just
>>7.6
>> >ghp and my EGTs and CHTs are all right in the ball park. Mine was easy
>>to
>> >install although I think I will go with the Hall effect sensor next time
>> >instead of the flywheel sensors. They are a bit on the pricey side but
>>the
>> >power and fuel efficiency more than make up for it. By the way I only
>>have
>> >one electronic and one magneto and I am getting those figures.
>> >
>> >Mike Robertson
>> >RV-8A
>> >15.4 hours
>>
>>
>>With all due respect Mike, your fuel burn rate sounds too good to be true.
>>I tired to verify the above numbers with the Lycoming Operator's Manual
p/n
>>2960-12, 5th edition, and I can not find any IO-360 versions that burn 9.1
>>gph (7.6 + 1.5 = 9.1) at 65% power. My manual lists fuel burn rates for
>>the
>>IO-360 series as 9.5, 8.5, or 7.6 gph @ 65% depending on model. Which
>>model do you have and what altitude did you obtain the values?
>>
>>I have the Unison LASAR system on my O360A1A. The price from Bart LaLonde
>>was much cheaper than Van's price. Unison specs (LASAR manual 1512) a
7.5%
>>fuel burn improvement at best economy at 8000 feet, 15% at 12,000 feet.
>>Your improvement seems to be (1.5)/(7.6 )= 20% -- that's almost three
>>times
>>better than Unison claims, and I don't believe you can achieve 65% power
at
>>12,000 feet. Hence my skepticism. The degree of advance is limited by
>>detonation and while Unison may be conservative because they go into
>>certificated planes, a factor of three improvement seems to be very high.
>>
>>I have not yet been able to prove the fuel efficiency claims for my LASAR
>>system because after 26 hours my rings are not yet seated, so I'm still
>>running 75% or more. I bought the LASAR because
>>I felt it would provide better fuel efficiency, easier starting and
longer
>>plug life. Time will tell.
>>
>>Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 26 hours
>>Hampshire, IL C38
>>
>>
>
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
I don't hear anybody mentioning the Airmap. I have the 300 and other than
occasionally losing signal realy like it. I think in my RV, I won't even
have lost signal as I wont have a big aluminum wing overhead. My biggest
concern is, I like having the Airmap on my yoke as it's close and I can
change the angle of it. When I get to the finishing stages of my 9A, (next
week)
I'll look into diferent types of mounts and decide what will work best. If I
was to replace it, I'd go with a gps/com unit.
My opinion.
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage (almost ready for wings)
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of James E. Clark
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 5:00 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: GPS Agony
Larry, (and the list)
I have all three. 195, 295, AnywhereMap (on IPAQ)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Berryhill" <dwberryhill(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mac Servo Wiring |
'Lectric Bob has a great set of instructions for these connectors with some
excellent color photos
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/macservo/macservo.html
Dave Berryhill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | main wing rib bolt holes (3 stations) |
Building a 6. Guys, I have prepared ribs, measured, cut and clecoed the
angles to specified ribs, drilled bolt holes, and have bolted all ribs that
require angles-the main inboard-mid way main and the tips-excluding the last
two tips of course. I am now ready to drill through the spar web.I did not
drill bolt holes in the MAIN ribs at sta. 83.5, 93.5 and 103.5. Remember
these are the three stations that have angles on the tip ribs. Would you
recommend drilling bolt holes from the leading edge rib back to main rib?
Would you use a bushing in spar or just back drill to the main rib. I have
holes drilled on main for rivets but nothing though spar as yet. Again all
the angles have bolt holes and are attached to correct ribs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Capacitive sender - BNC connector |
I just finished the leading edge and in the process of drilling holes in the
tank ribs. Van's forgot to include the BNC connectors for the capacitive
senders. I will get them later but like to drill the holes now. Are these
connectors 'special' or will any good quality Radio Shack type do?
But most importantly, does anyone know the size of the required hole so I
can go ahead and drill it? The dimensions are not noted in the plans as far
as I can see.
Thanks,
Are
RV-8 - Fuel Tanks (I can almost smell the Pro-Seal)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
My choice....probably:
http://www.microair.com.au/product/760SL.asp
Larry Bowen
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> >Anybody know which comm radios allow you to monitor the standby channel?
> >
> >Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
> >RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
> >http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Aha!!!!!! Output for autopilot control. That's it -- the deciding factor.
I had forgotten to consider that! I'm going with the 295. Thank you
sir...and everyone else for your very valuable input.
Ya gotta love "the list"!
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse, Garmin 295 enabled
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tim Lewis [mailto:timrv6a(at)earthlink.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 8:35 PM
> To: Larry Bowen; rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Agony
>
>
> On 16 Jan 2001, at 17:20, Larry Bowen wrote:
>
> > I need help deciding what to replace my Garmin 195 with. I can't
> > decide!!
>
> I didn't see IFR approaches listed on the IPAQ. That's a big deal for
> me. If my VOR/ILS calls it quits I can still shoot an approach with my
> Garmin 195.
>
> Another item: I drive my Navaid autopilot with my Garmin 195 output.
> Will the IPAQ do that? It's a great feature to have.
>
> Tim
>
> ******
> Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
> RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
> http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
> ******
> "Don't throw your vote away...
> Let the Supreme Court throw it away for you."
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Linings |
In a message dated 1/16/01 9:42:54 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Owens(at)aerovironment.com writes:
<< BTW, I ordered the 4-6 rivets like Gary mentioned, but they were too long.
Glad rivets came with linings. >>
Man, I sure hate leading guys like Laird astray especially with braking
issues. At least no small animals met their demise in the process ;
).
Laird is absolutely correct in that the proper P/N for the rivets used on the
Van's supplied Cleveland Brakes is 4-4 or 105-2 or 105-00200 (depending on
where you look).
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
> fuel tanks don't have fuel senders in them. Should I just get the SW ones
> from Van's or is there something better?
Several choices here. The S/W rheostat senders are okay but not great. Vans
has capacitance senders which will require a capacitance gauge -- EI (more
$$) or other. Then there's the fancy certified-type capacitance senders that
go all the way through the tanks. Don't really know how these compare to
Van's simpler ones except that they will be the most accurate since they go
all the way out to the end and can get an accurate measurement when the
tanks are close to full (when you really don't need them to anyway). Really
its your choice -- the capacitance types are more reliable and accurate but
on the other hand as pilots we're all trained to not completely rely on the
gauges...
> Also, the fuel pickup tubes are
> just alum tubing with about 7 or 8 slots hacksawed into them and not the
> stainless steel finger screens I see shown in the catalog. Will these
> pickups flow enough gph and resist clogging as well as the finger screens?
The hacksawed things do look hokey but as far as I know there have never
been any problems with people using them (and there are a lot of RVs out
there with these). The finger screens look more professional but either will
work. At this point it's only going to filter out the "big chunks" anyway,
there is (better be) more filtering down the line to really do it.
> What should I use (if anything) on the gasket when I close up the gas
tanks?
Proseal is harder to get off if you need to but is going to be the least
likely to leak. Cork and fiber and rubber gaskets have all been used, with
varying degrees of success -- check the archives for more on this.
> Also, (not to start the primer wars again, but...) when they did that wash
> primer, they really really scrubbed the skins (with scotchbrite I guess
and
> coarser than any I've got) and I'm wondering if there's any alclad left.
I'm
> thinking about hitting it with akzo epoxy wherever I can get to it. Good
> idea or overkill?
Probably overkill. Surprised to hear they went after it with coarser stuff
though -- if it really looks coarse you might want to discuss this with
Vans. Van's literature talks about polishing out scratches etc. and if its
very coarse, well, I guess I don't know without seeing it. But as far as
priming -- the wash primer (or rattle can zinc chromate or Marhyde or
whatever) should be fine really.
> Taking some deep breaths and thinking about where to start.
Good luck, and welcome to the club!
Randall Henderson, RV-6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
I have been reading these posts with great interest as I have an iPAQ, but
have not yet bought the Anywhere Map software... I have been trying to
research all of the questions as best I can... About using the stylus in
flight, I found a site that sell fingertip styluses:
http://www.stingerstylus.com
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Question |
In a message dated 1/16/01 4:50:03 PM Pacific Standard Time,
mrobert569(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< But I can verify that
this engine is burning 7.6 to 7.7 gph at 2000 feet at 23 squared right now
and I'm getting about 160 mph at that setting without wheel pants or leg
fairings. >>
Mike-
The IO-360-A1A is rated at 200hp. At 2300 rpm and 23 inHg you are developing
somewhere around 65% power (130 hp). Lycoming claims that in cruise
configuration (<75%) these engines are burning 0.47 lbs/hp/hr when properly
leaned. Perhaps the angle valve engine is a little more efficient than the
parallel.
If we do the math we get about 10.2 gph at your setting. Have you confirmed
your 7.7 gph burn by measuring the fuel consumed at fillup or just by what
the flow meter reads? Further, is it possible that your manifold pressure
and tachometer are not reading accurately?
If we do the math backwards with your numbers we get 0.34 lbs/hp/hr. A very
impressive lean burn for any engine. You need to call the auto companies, as
yours is an unbelievably efficient engine.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting that back bulkhead |
Scott:
I clecoed the no. 410 bulkhead in (last bulkhead) I then removed that
bulkhead and riveted that next to last bulkhead through the hole. Then
I re installed the 410 bulkhead. It was very tight and I scratched up
my nuckles pretty good as I remember. Might be worth a try....
David Aronson
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
>
> I riveted my top rear fuse skin on my -4 this past weekend but neither I,
> nor the skinny guy that helped me could get to that last bulkhead (the one
> on top just ahead of the vertical stab.) I'm inclined to use blind rivets
> here. Would the Cherry rivets Van's suffice? Suggestions?
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Audio Amplifier |
I don't know why you are wearing earplugs. If you weren't wearing them, you
wouldn't have a problem with someone else in the same plane who is not
wearing them. Here is some info to ponder:
The typical average noise level in a small airplane varies from about 87 dbA
to 95 dbA.
(The threshold of actual pain in the ears is somewhere around 115 to 120
dbA).
If one is subjected to 88 dbA for eight hours at a time, there can be some
damage to hearing in a work environment, that is, eight hours a day for many
days in a year.
On a practical level, you can stand 85 dbA for long periods without being
annoyed. Lots of people driving trucks, etc. have this level of noise. If
the noise level is higher, workers are usually required to wear ear
protection.
Typical headsets reduce the level of ambient noise by about 14 dB or more,
so the noise level in the ear can be reduced to about 73 dbA to 81 dbA or
lower in an airplane. ANR headsets are even better in the upper audio
frequency range where the ear is more sensitive to noise levels.
As a result, there will be no damage to your ears if you simply wear a
reasonably good headset, without earplugs.
Using a reasonably good communications headset only, you can hear audio
better because the overall audio levels remain within the comfortable
dynamic range of your ears, ie from about 0 dBA, the threshold of hearing,
to about 85 dBA. Short duration peaks up to 100 dBA are OK.
When not wearing a headset, use earplugs. They are great low weight ear
protection devices. The expanding foam types are best.
Garth Shearing
VariEze and RV-6A, 75%
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael J. Robbins <kitfox(at)gte.net>
Sent: January 15, 2001 7:11 PM
Subject: RV-List: Audio Amplifier
>
> I need the help of some of you electronics experts out there. I wear
> earplugs under my headphones whenever I fly, which includes quite often in
a
> C182 with a friend of mine. Trouble is he keeps the intercom volume so
low
> I can't hear him half the time. So can anyone tell me how to build an amp
> where I can plug the headphones in one end and plug the other end into the
> airplane jack, or maybe there is already something like this off the
shelf.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mac Servo Wiring |
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Berryhill <dwberryhill(at)home.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 9:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Mac Servo Wiring
>
> 'Lectric Bob has a great set of instructions for these connectors with
some
> excellent color photos
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/macservo/macservo.html
>
> Dave Berryhill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Aeroquip 303 works great for oil, but I've seen 100LL attack it. I wouldn't
recommend it for fuel. As for the firesleeve on the oil & fuel lines, I
wouldn't feel comfortable flying in a plane without it.
I made up my own hoses. After climbing the learning curve and getting the
right tools, it was not hard to make hoses. Also a very satisfying feeling
having made up a nice section of hose and it pass hydro test. As I recall,
the Aircraft Spruce catalog has some good info on hoses, fittings and their
respective applications.
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ
Pearland, Texas
> Can anyone tell me what aeroquip 303 hose is commonly used for in
> experimental aircraft construction? Sounds like ( according to Lycoming )
> it's bad, bad, bad for fuel applications but what about oil? It's a
> relatively high pressure hose as I understand it.
Jim, 303 hose is very common on fuel and oil lines. They can handle way more
pressure than can be generated in an engine compartment. Any line that
carries
fuel should be covered with fireslieve.Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shelby Smith" <rvaitor(at)home.com> |
Hi everyone. This was posted to my Musketeer list and I thought it would be
useful information for our group.
--
Shelby Smith
rvaitor(at)home.com
RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
N95EB - reserved
> Hi guys,
>
> I just had to quick put my story in about installing my bar-graph
> engine analyzer.
>
> I bought the Electronics International Ultimate Bar Graph UBG-16.
> I chose it over the GEM system because the GEM-602 didn't have any
> digital display, only bars, and the GEM-610 was more money and
> didn't seem to have any extra to offer. I chose it over the JPI
> EDM-700 because the JPI was just far too costly. Sure, you can
> buy it without datalogging for a little less, but still over $100
> more than the UBG-16. The UBG-16 and the EDM-700 are very similar
> in features, and each company touts itself as the best, although
> after thoroughly reading both units documentation I chose the UBG-16.
> I paid $1400 at Chief Aircraft for the unit with all the probes.
> The one thing that the EDM has is a computer downloading module.
> This is a nice option, and it's available for the UBG-16 too for
> $395, but I found a better option. I did have one list member
> say they heard that E.I. had bad support, but from my 6 or 8
> phone calls to the factory so far just to ask various questions,
> I can say that their support is better than most places I've ever
> called. I can't comment on any other brands, as I haven't used
> any others. As for the downloading of my UBG-16, the data signal
> comes out as a plain old 0-5Vdc signal that can be fed into a
> serial port. The manual and tech support guys told me that it
> needed to be "inverted" though. This got me thinking and testing
> and what I did was make a small cable with a box in the middle
> to connect it to my PC. I put in a 5V regulator to cut the
> power from 12V down to 5 and a S7404 inverter IC to invert the
> signal and feed it out to a standard DB9 connector for my serial
> port. It worked like a charm. Although I don't have built in
> memory in the unit since I didn't pay for the add on module,
> I can now fly around with the laptop logging all of the temps
> ever 5 seconds. It puts out standard ASCII text, so it's easy
> to chart off a spreadsheet.
>
> Anyway, I think all 3 major brands are probably all great, but I
> liked the more durable probes, lower cost, more options, and some
> other things about the E.I. unit.
>
> Installing went very well. I checked in with the A&P and then
> got started. 4.5 to 5 hours later I had almost all of it done,
> including an annunciator light and dimmer control. The probe
> harnesses and power/data harness were very convenient and nearly
> complete, so the longest job was routing wires, making my power
> and ground connections, and routing probe wires. It was a great
> job for an owner to do by theirself. Before I got it checked out
> by the A&P, I also put in all new plugs and a new slick harness.
> As I taxiied it over it ran smoother than what I was used to.
> (I found 2 or 3 lead fouled plugs on the bottom cylinder half)
> The bar graph analyzer made it easy to see how different the
> cylinder temps were, and verified why I bought it in the first
> place. It's well worth the money. Then the A&P checked it all
> out, did a compression and timing check, and I was on my way
> taxxiing back to the hanger. I'm real impressed with the unit.
> One nice thing too is that with CHT and the digital display that
> the GEM didn't have, I can tell right away that my TANIS heater
> is heating all 4 cylinders. 65-70 degrees just like they claimed
> for the most part.
>
> Anyway, there are far too many features to mention, so if you're
> ever shopping for one of these, I'd suggest reading everything you
> can on ALL 3 of the brands. I think you couldn't go wrong with
> the GEM-610, EDM-700, or the UBG-16, and they all have great
> things to read on their pages.
>
> If anyone has any questions about anything, just ask. I'll be
> taking my trial flight with the new system later this week.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim Olson
> '77 Sundowner
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aeroquip 303 |
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
01/17/2001 08:00:27 AM
>I made up my own hoses. After climbing the learning curve and getting the
>right tools, it was not hard to make hoses. Also a very satisfying
feeling
>having made up a nice section of hose and it pass hydro test. As I
recall,
>the Aircraft Spruce catalog has some good info on hoses, fittings and
their
>respective applications.
Right you are Bryan. It did give me a good feeling to make my own hoses.
Even making the 303 mandrels was a no brainer. I'm in the process of
making a hose tester that was suggested by one of the listers. I'm curious
as to how much pressure you used when testing out your hoses. It's my
understanding that the 303 will handle up to 3000 PSI and the 701 that I
will be using for fuel will only handle up to 1000 PSI. Did you test it to
the limit or did you just go 50%? I want to make sure they are good but I
don't want to do any destructive testing just to prove a point. After all,
the fuel line will probable never see anything over 20 PSI in it's entire
life time.
Thanks,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( FWF )
O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: main wing rib bolt holes (3 stations) |
Bob,
The problem I had was when my ribs lined up with the holes in the prepunched
skins, the ribs were not necessarily exactly at the correct stations on the
spar. It sounds like you have already drilled your bolt holes in the
angles...presumably they line up with the holes in the spar. I waited to
drill the bolt holes in the mounting angles until the ribs were clecoed in
position. Some of the bolt holes migrated towards the outer edge of the
angle (e.d. was still good), some toward the radius. Some of them even
necessitated me grinding the nut on one side. (Dammit!) I used a drill
bushing in the spar to drill down into the main rib mounting angle at each
location, then mounted the tip ribs and drilled upwards in the same manner.
The drill bushing I used was two concentric pieces of brass tubing that fit
into the hole in the spar and protected it from being hogged out too large.
Remove all ribs and drill the holes in the angles full size. I had a lot of
fussing to do to get everything to fit afterwards, so maybe my method wasn't
the greatesst, but it finally worked. Riveted on the top skins the other
day...now it looks like a wing.
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A
Wings
>From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: main wing rib bolt holes (3 stations)
>Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 22:15:03 EST
>
>
>Building a 6. Guys, I have prepared ribs, measured, cut and clecoed the
>angles to specified ribs, drilled bolt holes, and have bolted all ribs that
>require angles-the main inboard-mid way main and the tips-excluding the
>last
>two tips of course. I am now ready to drill through the spar web.I did not
>drill bolt holes in the MAIN ribs at sta. 83.5, 93.5 and 103.5. Remember
>these are the three stations that have angles on the tip ribs. Would you
>recommend drilling bolt holes from the leading edge rib back to main rib?
>Would you use a bushing in spar or just back drill to the main rib. I have
>holes drilled on main for rivets but nothing though spar as yet. Again all
>the angles have bolt holes and are attached to correct ribs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
01/17/2001 09:32:18
I tried the 295 (boat version) at the boat store at lunch yesterday, took
the unit (and the salesman) outside in the sunlight & I COULDNOT read the
display at all.......... The monochrome 195 & GPS III...all Garman
units.....could be read even in the sunlight...
"Larry Bowen"
To: "Rv-List"
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: RE: RV-List: GPS
Agony
ronics.com
01/16/2001 11:00 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
Aha!!!!!! Output for autopilot control. That's it -- the deciding factor.
I had forgotten to consider that! I'm going with the 295. Thank you
sir...and everyone else for your very valuable input.
Ya gotta love "the list"!
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse, Garmin 295 enabled
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tim Lewis [mailto:timrv6a(at)earthlink.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 8:35 PM
> To: Larry Bowen; rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Agony
>
>
> On 16 Jan 2001, at 17:20, Larry Bowen wrote:
>
> > I need help deciding what to replace my Garmin 195 with. I can't
> > decide!!
>
> I didn't see IFR approaches listed on the IPAQ. That's a big deal for
> me. If my VOR/ILS calls it quits I can still shoot an approach with my
> Garmin 195.
>
> Another item: I drive my Navaid autopilot with my Garmin 195 output.
> Will the IPAQ do that? It's a great feature to have.
>
> Tim
>
> ******
> Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
> RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
> http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
> ******
> "Don't throw your vote away...
> Let the Supreme Court throw it away for you."
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I had mine tested at Falcon Crest in Houston (Hobby Apt). Could have/should
have rigged up something on my own, but decided to have their shop since
they do quite a bit of hose work. Part of the deal was to clean and check
the ID of the hose. You don't want any slivers of hose ID left inside from
the assembly process. This could cause BIG problems.
As for the test pressure (oil & fuel hose), I seem to recall 1000-psi, but
it was a year or so ago. I went with the recommendation given by the folks
at Falcon Crest since it sounded reasonable at the time. I'd probably
consider testing at 75% of rating if I had to do it again.
Good luck with self-testing. Just be sure you've got a good gauge and are
liquid full. I'd probably wrap the hose assemblies or somehow restrain the
end fittings in case they turn loose.
Bryan Jones
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com [mailto:Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 8:01 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aeroquip 303
>I made up my own hoses. After climbing the learning curve and getting the
>right tools, it was not hard to make hoses. Also a very satisfying
feeling
>having made up a nice section of hose and it pass hydro test. As I
recall,
>the Aircraft Spruce catalog has some good info on hoses, fittings and
their
>respective applications.
Right you are Bryan. It did give me a good feeling to make my own hoses.
Even making the 303 mandrels was a no brainer. I'm in the process of
making a hose tester that was suggested by one of the listers. I'm curious
as to how much pressure you used when testing out your hoses. It's my
understanding that the 303 will handle up to 3000 PSI and the 701 that I
will be using for fuel will only handle up to 1000 PSI. Did you test it to
the limit or did you just go 50%? I want to make sure they are good but I
don't want to do any destructive testing just to prove a point. After all,
the fuel line will probable never see anything over 20 PSI in it's entire
life time.
Thanks,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( FWF )
O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Holes |
Hello RV building friends
I made a little jig for cutting instrument holes and had such good luck with
it I thought I would share it with you guys. The basic concept is using a
router with a carbide plastic laminate cutting bit that has a ball bearing
follower on the end. Start by making an instrument template out of a piece of
material at least 1/8" thick. I made mine by using a piece of sch 40 3" steel
pipe which has an ID of 3 1/8". Use the p-lam bit with the piece of pipe as a
guide to cut out the template hole. now stick an instrument in the hole and
match drill the screw holes. Now you have a template. Set it on your panel
where you want it, drill the screw holes. take it back off and put spacers
behind it at least 1/4". Drill a starter hole, set your router so the ball
bearing will ride on the template and zip out a perfect instrument hole.
Hope this helps some one not lose a finger with one of those fly cutter death
machines.
Kevin Shannon
-9A wiring & panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More great customer service |
In the same vein of good customer service, I would like to recommend the
Cart Co. They were mentioned on the back of the previous RVATOR for the roll
around cart they sell. I have used one for several weeks and find it
indispensible while putting on the fuselage skins. I wanted one before the
Christmas holidays and at the time they didn't take credit cards. I made a
deal to give him a card number as "goodwill" and mailed a check that day.
They sent the cart the same day and I got it 2 days later. Good product and
good people to deal with.
Bill Christie, RV8A fuselage, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2001 7:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: More great customer service
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm glad to say that my O-360 is now healthy again after discovering ZERO
> compression on cylinder #1 during annual inspection. Gibson Aviation in
El
> Reno, OK was recommended to me to check out the cylinder. I sent it to
them
> after a quick call to let them know it was coming. "We'll do a one day
turn
> on it and have a serviceable assembly to you by the end of the week" was
> Marshall Gibson's reply. Cool! This was indeed the case. He called me
three
> days later. The cylinder was cracked and he already had an overhauled
chrome
> assembly with serviceable valves, new seats, guides, piston & pin,
springs,
> rings, gasket kit and yellow tag ready to go out that same day with my
> approval. I had it two days later, on time, securely packaged and the
bill
> came to $681 as he had estimated from the start. Now, I wasn't quite
ready
> to have to deal with a cracked cylinder....especially after the holiday
> shopping season, but Gibson Aviation made it as painless and trouble free
as
> possible. I also managed to mangle the piston pin in a total
> misunderstanding of which set of pin plugs to use. Marshall sent a new
pin
> with the pressed in type plugs...free of charge. Didn't cost me a dime.
> "Just send me the other pin when you get around to it" was his only
request.
>
> Yet another fine company to deal with. It's folks like the Gibsons and
> Averys that make owning an airplane a wonderful thing.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> 161 hrs with ALL FOUR cylinders working! Electronic ignition coming soon.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Audio Amplifier |
Just for information -- the sound level in an RV is considerably higher than
in a typical "small" airplane. In my RV and others I have flown in it is a
combination of wind noise and engine noise, each about the same in power
level. I have not quantified it, but if I can borrow the General Radio dB
meter from my pre-retirement employer I will do so. The fellow who runs
Lightspeed ANR has made test recordings in a number of planes and he is the
one that told me that RVs are the loudest.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 26 Hours
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Garth Shearing <garth(at)Islandnet.com>
Date: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 3:37 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Audio Amplifier
>
>I don't know why you are wearing earplugs. If you weren't wearing them,
you
>wouldn't have a problem with someone else in the same plane who is not
>wearing them. Here is some info to ponder:
>
>The typical average noise level in a small airplane varies from about 87
dbA
>to 95 dbA.
>Garth Shearing
>VariEze and RV-6A, 75%
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitive sender - BNC connector |
Are,
My kit came with the connectors and there is nothing unique about them. I
have used hundreds over the years. I don't tend to buy connectors at radio
shack, but there are several electronics shops here in Phoenix as well as
mail order such as Digikey that have them. I believe the hole is 7/16". but
I would get the connector first as I did this several months ago and don't
have any laying around right now.
Bill Christie, RV8A fus., Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: Are Barstad <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 8:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: Capacitive sender - BNC connector
>
> I just finished the leading edge and in the process of drilling holes in
the
> tank ribs. Van's forgot to include the BNC connectors for the capacitive
> senders. I will get them later but like to drill the holes now. Are these
> connectors 'special' or will any good quality Radio Shack type do?
>
> But most importantly, does anyone know the size of the required hole so I
> can go ahead and drill it? The dimensions are not noted in the plans as
far
> as I can see.
>
> Thanks,
> Are
> RV-8 - Fuel Tanks (I can almost smell the Pro-Seal)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Question |
The numbers are good. I have a VM1000 installed and have verified the burn
rate as indicated with the fill-up numbers. I hae also verified the tach
with an independent hand held tach. I hadn't thought about verifying the MP
numbers but I can say that at rest without the engine running the MP
readings agrees pretty much with the baro pressure settings of both my
standard altimeter, the RMI MicroEncoder, and the tower readings. I have
verified the airspeed with the two airspeed indicators that I have installed
against the Garmin 430 GPS groundspeed. I readily admit the fuel
consumption is hard to believe so I have done my best to verify it several
times. I have double checked that I wasn't overleaning it by double
checking my EGT and CHT readings but everything has stood up. I have been
skeptical since the beginning but after verifying everything as best as I
know how I have happily just accepted that she is burning fuel at a very
efficent rate.
I will get another chance to verify it next month as we have entered our -8A
in the Great Hawaiian Air Race which uses time and fuel as main factors.
Speed is secondary and each type of aircraft is handicapped so any type of
aircraft may enter. I let everyone know how it works out.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
15.4 hours
>
>
>In a message dated 1/16/01 4:50:03 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>mrobert569(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
><< But I can verify that
> this engine is burning 7.6 to 7.7 gph at 2000 feet at 23 squared right
>now
> and I'm getting about 160 mph at that setting without wheel pants or leg
> fairings. >>
>
>Mike-
>
>The IO-360-A1A is rated at 200hp. At 2300 rpm and 23 inHg you are
>developing
>somewhere around 65% power (130 hp). Lycoming claims that in cruise
>configuration (<75%) these engines are burning 0.47 lbs/hp/hr when properly
>leaned. Perhaps the angle valve engine is a little more efficient than the
>parallel.
>
>If we do the math we get about 10.2 gph at your setting. Have you
>confirmed
>your 7.7 gph burn by measuring the fuel consumed at fillup or just by what
>the flow meter reads? Further, is it possible that your manifold pressure
>and tachometer are not reading accurately?
>
>If we do the math backwards with your numbers we get 0.34 lbs/hp/hr. A
>very
>impressive lean burn for any engine. You need to call the auto companies,
>as
>yours is an unbelievably efficient engine.
>
>-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
>vanremog(at)aol.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Well folks, it finally happened. Thanks to Brain Denk and several others we
have gotten our oil temp down to acceptable levels. And it was, indeed, the
oil cooler. I was able to get my hands on an oil cooler out of an Aztec,
which is the same size as the Positech, installed it and the temps came out
right around 185 to 190. Even flat out with throttle full forward the
highest I could get was 202. It is wonderful to see.
The Aztec oil cooler is a Stewart Warner/Harrison two pass cooler. The part
number is 8432R. The hole mounting pattern was a bit different from the
Positech but not too far off. Anyways, problem solved. Now on to the more
fun parts of the test flying.
Thanks to several of you for your input, most particularly Brian. I would
also like to recommend Pacific Oil Coolers as very helpful, courtious folks.
I talked to them and they knew exactly what I was going through and had
several recommendations. They were the ones that gave me the good part
number and told me that they were installed on Piper Aztec's. They also
gave me prices for their rebuilt and new coolers. Very reasonable. If you
have any questions I highly recommend them.
SO...on to the fun part of the test flying!!
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
15.4 hours and growing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Question |
In a message dated 01/17/2001 12:26:58 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mrobert569(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< at rest without the engine running the MP
readings agrees pretty much with the baro pressure settings of both my
standard altimeter, the RMI MicroEncoder, and the tower readings. >>
Mike - IIRC, the MAP gauge should read the same as the Kollsman window
setting when you dail in sea level altitude (zero feet) on the altimeter. I
once overlooked this fact and recalibrated my EIS manifold pressure readout
to agree with the local altimeter setting while my plane sat at 1040 MSL in
the hangar. I later realized my mistake and returned to the factory setting,
which was correct all along. Obviously, there was about a one inch pressure
discrepancy between the current local altimeter setting and the actual
barometric (and manifold) pressure in the hangar.
You probably already knew this, but I managed to forget it long enough to
chase some interesting rabbit trails.
-Bill B
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aeroquip 303 |
Jim,
303 is ok for oil and fuel, it has been used for years in military and civil
A/C. Only 4 years ago did the military switch to the newer Teflon hoses. I
have 303 for all my hoses, including the inverted oil system and have found
them to be indestructible.
Carey Mills
-4, 74hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 1/16/01 2:40:11 PM Pacific Standard Time,
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com writes:
<< I find it impossible to drill > through the skirt with the canopy on the
frame. I am starting to drill the skirt directly to the frame but am afraid
It won't line up due to the thickness of the canopy. Those of you who have
gotten through this, how did you do it? Helllllllpppppppeeeee. >>
Earl: I am by no stretch of the imagination an expert on this but I have
finally finished drilling my -6 canopy (slider) and skirts to the frame with
no cracks yet. I believe you are correct that that the skirts won't fit if
you drill them without the canopy in place. my "technique" if you can call
it that was to put an electric room heater in the cabin under the canopy and
let it run until the plexi was thoroughly warmed up, warm to the touch and
probably at least 80 F. I made sure the plexi was supported by the frame or
shims and drilled with a #40. Took it all apart and drilled the skirts and
frame to # 30 and used a plexi drill to open the canopy holes to 3/16. So
far so good, final step is to paint and assemble with sealant. Hope this
will help.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Nellis <mnellis1(at)yahoo.com> |
I don't know about any type of "certified capacitance
senders" but I do know that you'd have to dissamble to
the completed fuel tank on the QB to get Vans
Capacitance senders installed. The only option on a
completed tank would be to install a float type of
sender that mounts on the access cover as the stock
senders do.
Mike Nellis
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
--- Randall Henderson wrote:
>
>
> > fuel tanks don't have fuel senders in them. Should
> I just get the SW ones
> > from Van's or is there something better?
>
> Several choices here. The S/W rheostat senders are
> okay but not great. Vans
> has capacitance senders which will require a
> capacitance gauge -- EI (more
> $$) or other. Then there's the fancy certified-type
> capacitance senders that
> go all the way through the tanks. Don't really know
> how these compare to
> Van's simpler ones except that they will be the most
> accurate since they go
> all the way out to the end and can get an accurate
> measurement when the
> tanks are close to full (when you really don't need
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> |
| Subject: | Need pic of throttle quad. |
I disassembled my Van's three lever throttle quadrant a couple of months ago
and, even though I made a quick sketch of it, I can't remember how it goes
together!
I'm looking for a pic of the underside of it where the smaller phenolic
pieces go.
If you can snap one, please send to me at ludwig(at)azstarnet.com
Thanks,
- Bill in Tucson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
Listers,
For a couple years, I was interested in building up my own engine. At Osh
'99, I heard that Superior was going to sell a kit, but instead they sold
out to Mattituck. I have since read that they may come out with one anyway,
but I can't find out anything definitive.
I sent an email to ECI asking them about a kit engine and was told by Joe
Trampota of ECI that they are indeed planning to do that. He said by Osh
'01, they will have 95% of the parts, and should be close by late summer /
early fall. Pricing not yet established.
I will be at OSH'01 and will check on this again. If someone has definitive
knowledge of others planning this, I would love to hear it. I need to get an
engine of some kind late this year.
Thanks much,
Bill Christie, RV-8A fuselage, Phoenix
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Need pic of throttle quad. |
BILL
i'll snap a pix of it tonight, i may be able to discribe it to you off list
if you want.
scott
tampa rv6a yes with 3 lever quadrant on center console
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
> In a message dated 1/16/01 2:40:11 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com writes:
>
> << I find it impossible to drill > through the skirt with the canopy
> on the
> frame. I am starting to drill the skirt directly to the frame but am
> afraid
> It won't line up due to the thickness of the canopy. Those of you who
> have
> gotten through this, how did you do it? Helllllllpppppppeeeee. >>
I sorry I haven't been paying attention to this thread as I'm building
a -6... but I have exactly the answer you need.
Read the following article that I sent to Doug Reeves:
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/articles/themagicofmylar.htm
The trick you seek is to first use a transparent template to drill
through the plexi and into the frame, then use that template to
back-drill your skirts.
I used some .032 Mylar as I had it on hand - but since the skirts are
fairly straight you could use a sheet of plastic from a poster frame.
Let me know if you have questions - I hope you see this in time to
avoid problems!
- Mike
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroquip 303 |
What is the best way to clean the hoses? I blew 90 psi air through them,
should I do anything else?
Bob Busick
Part of the deal was to clean and check
> the ID of the hose. You don't want any slivers of hose ID left inside
from
> the assembly process. This could cause BIG problems.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroquip 303 |
The end fittings many times core out a piece of the rubber lining. If you
get the hose perfectly straight one can see it. Running a piece of welding
rod thru will sometimes clean it out.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
EAA Chapter 75 helping fellow aviators
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 2:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aeroquip 303
>
> What is the best way to clean the hoses? I blew 90 psi air through them,
> should I do anything else?
>
> Bob Busick
>
> Part of the deal was to clean and check
> > the ID of the hose. You don't want any slivers of hose ID left inside
> from
> > the assembly process. This could cause BIG problems.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Kit engines
Thread-Index: AcCAyoulGHywTIELQmOjWNTgRyqUTgAASCqQ
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Right about the time Superior announced the XP-360 two or three years
ago, their target price was pretty close to the price Van's gets for new
Lyc's. Remember, Vans sells new engines for substantially less than
many of their competitors. The difference in price, from what I
remember, was not worth the time/effort to put the engine together and
do a proper runup.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Flying to the Bahamas |
To all,
I've been thinking about flying down to the Bahamas to sample some of the rum and
lay in the sun after Sun n Fun. (Hey....that almost rhymes).
Since I mentioned it on the list, several folks sent me notes about what days to
try to attend SnF (opening weekend seems to be the busiest). A couple even
sent some stuff about the Bahamas. Thanks.
To those who have been to the Bahamas, I'm looking to find some ideas of places
to go and do. I checked the archives, and I thought I'd as some of the new folks.
Any suggestions? (I've already checked into Pittstown Point Landing.
Their booked, darn it).
I've also been comparing bird strike notes with Jim Baker, who hit a bird out of
Kansas, and he also mentioned that he was thinking about a trip to the Bahamas
around that time. (BTW, Jim (who is not on the list) is having a hell of a
time getting his insurance company, AIG, to pay off on his claim. He said he
say more to the list after the claim is finished). He sent a note off to the Bahamas
about what it requires to fly an Expermental into there.
He asked me to pass it on to the list for the archives:
----- Original Message -----
From: <grolle(at)gobahamas.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 8:01 AM
Subject: Permission to Fly Experimental Aircraft in Bahamas
>
> Hello Mr. Baker, please see note attachment below. If you need further
> information, pls call me at 800-327-7678 ext. 235
>
> Thanks
> Greg Rolle
>
>
> Permission to Fly Experimental Aircraft in The Islands Of The
Bahamas
>
> Applications with the list of requirements are to be faxed to
Bahamas
> Civil Aviation Department (at the address listed below) and a
> response is usually within 48 hours
>
> * Certificate of Registration
> * Special Airworthiness Certificate
> * Experimental Operating Limitations
> * Insurance Certificate
> * Pilot,s License
> * Medical Certificate
> * Radio Station License
> * Radio & Nav Aid Equipment Fitted
> * Named Pilots A & P Mechanics Certificate statement by A & P
> Mechanic that the named pilot is competent to carry out pre-flight
> and line maintenance on this aircraft
> * Particulars of two relatives or friends who may be contacted in
> the event of accident
> * Destination airport and area of operation
> * Expected date of arrival and departure
>
>
> Department Of Civil Aviation
> P.O. Box 975
> Nassau, Bahamas
> Telephone: (242) 377-5137
> Facsimile: (242) 377-5288
>
> If further information is needed please call me at 800-327-7678
>
> Greg Rolle
>
See you all later,
Laird RV-6
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
Since my first batch, I have made up some replacements and additional hoses.
To clean those, I used a tube brush and WD40 or similar. After brushing
them out, I used a flashlight to look through the hose. The way I did this,
I held the bulb-end of the light against one end of the hose. Pulling the
hose straight with the other I was able to look down the hose for slivers
and burs. They will be near the fitting if they're there. Reverse for the
other end. used hemostats to pull out a few slivers I spotted. Flushing
with liquid or air alone won't get them.
After this, I flushed again and pulled a patch (small cloth) through the
hose to get all the other stuff out. Then one last look with the flashlight
then I taped the ends closed and took them to the airport for installation.
Bryan Jones
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Busick [mailto:panamared(at)brier.net]
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 2:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aeroquip 303
What is the best way to clean the hoses? I blew 90 psi air through them,
should I do anything else?
Bob Busick
Part of the deal was to clean and check
> the ID of the hose. You don't want any slivers of hose ID left inside
from
> the assembly process. This could cause BIG problems.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>Well folks, it finally happened. Thanks to Brain Denk and several others
>we
>have gotten our oil temp down to acceptable levels. And it was, indeed,
>the
>oil cooler. I was able to get my hands on an oil cooler out of an Aztec,
>which is the same size as the Positech, installed it and the temps came out
>right around 185 to 190. Even flat out with throttle full forward the
>highest I could get was 202. It is wonderful to see.
>
>The Aztec oil cooler is a Stewart Warner/Harrison two pass cooler. The
>part
>number is 8432R. The hole mounting pattern was a bit different from the
>Positech but not too far off. Anyways, problem solved. Now on to the more
>fun parts of the test flying.
>
>Thanks to several of you for your input, most particularly Brian. I would
>also like to recommend Pacific Oil Coolers as very helpful, courtious
>folks.
> I talked to them and they knew exactly what I was going through and had
>several recommendations. They were the ones that gave me the good part
>number and told me that they were installed on Piper Aztec's. They also
>gave me prices for their rebuilt and new coolers. Very reasonable. If you
>have any questions I highly recommend them.
>
>SO...on to the fun part of the test flying!!
>
>Mike Robertson
>RV-8A N809RS
>15.4 hours and growing
>
Thanks so much for the kudos, Mike. I'm glad your oil temp is now under
control. I wonder what, if any, damage or premature wear I might have
imposed on my engine by running 215+ for many months with that (insert
colorful adjective here) Positech cooler. I bet the Pacific Oil Cooler
folks had some rather firm convictions to share about the use of Positech
coolers in aircraft as well. The owner sure did when I chatted with him at
Copperstate '99. I also got the impression that they knew their business and
had excellent products at reasonable prices.
Anybody building a boat who needs an anchor? I have a Positech full of oil
that would work nicely. ;)
Have fun, Mike, and best of luck in the Hawaii air race!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
annual done. New jug working fine. Airborne again!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying to the Bahamas |
Laird,
There was no mention of the requirement for 12 inch N numbers. Is this
still required? Or is this only a requirement of the US to pass across the
border? If so, will it be customs who busts us for the small numbers?
Rick Caldwell
-6 small numbers & want to go too!
Melbourne, FL
>From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rv-list"
>Subject: RV-List: Flying to the Bahamas
>Date: 17 Jan 2001 13:40:27 -0800
>
>
>To all,
>
>I've been thinking about flying down to the Bahamas to sample some of the
>rum and lay in the sun after Sun n Fun. (Hey....that almost rhymes).
>
>Since I mentioned it on the list, several folks sent me notes about what
>days to try to attend SnF (opening weekend seems to be the busiest). A
>couple even sent some stuff about the Bahamas. Thanks.
>
>To those who have been to the Bahamas, I'm looking to find some ideas of
>places to go and do. I checked the archives, and I thought I'd as some of
>the new folks. Any suggestions? (I've already checked into Pittstown
>Point Landing. Their booked, darn it).
>
>I've also been comparing bird strike notes with Jim Baker, who hit a bird
>out of Kansas, and he also mentioned that he was thinking about a trip to
>the Bahamas around that time. (BTW, Jim (who is not on the list) is having
>a hell of a time getting his insurance company, AIG, to pay off on his
>claim. He said he say more to the list after the claim is finished). He
>sent a note off to the Bahamas about what it requires to fly an Expermental
>into there.
>
>He asked me to pass it on to the list for the archives:
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <grolle(at)gobahamas.com>
>To:
>Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 8:01 AM
>Subject: Permission to Fly Experimental Aircraft in Bahamas
>
>
> >
> > Hello Mr. Baker, please see note attachment below. If you need further
> > information, pls call me at 800-327-7678 ext. 235
> >
> > Thanks
> > Greg Rolle
> >
> >
> > Permission to Fly Experimental Aircraft in The Islands Of The
>Bahamas
> >
> > Applications with the list of requirements are to be faxed to
>Bahamas
> > Civil Aviation Department (at the address listed below) and a
> > response is usually within 48 hours
> >
> > * Certificate of Registration
> > * Special Airworthiness Certificate
> > * Experimental Operating Limitations
> > * Insurance Certificate
> > * Pilot,s License
> > * Medical Certificate
> > * Radio Station License
> > * Radio & Nav Aid Equipment Fitted
> > * Named Pilots A & P Mechanics Certificate statement by A &
>P
> > Mechanic that the named pilot is competent to carry out
>pre-flight
> > and line maintenance on this aircraft
> > * Particulars of two relatives or friends who may be contacted
>in
> > the event of accident
> > * Destination airport and area of operation
> > * Expected date of arrival and departure
> >
> >
> > Department Of Civil Aviation
> > P.O. Box 975
> > Nassau, Bahamas
> > Telephone: (242) 377-5137
> > Facsimile: (242) 377-5288
> >
> > If further information is needed please call me at 800-327-7678
> >
> > Greg Rolle
> >
>
>See you all later,
>
>Laird RV-6
>SoCal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Here is some recent heater data from my 6A: Two Robins Wings heat muffs in
series. OAT monitored at wing tip and IAT (inside air t) monitored at
triangular channel at side of tipup canopy.
OAT 20.1 F
IAT 52.7 F
Sun bright but at low 35 deg elevation in afternoon 3:30 pm -- sky clear
Flew with long sleeve shirt and open sweater
Some observations:
1) When the sun reflects into the cabin off my unpainted wing during a turn
it feels really hot! I will have to get the plane painted before summer!
2) I put on thin cotton gloves because the stick (bare metal) felt cold on
second flight -- plane had been outside for about 2 hours -- I usually start
out from a heated hangar.
3) We now have the quilted fabric from DJ on the side panels. The IAT is no
warmer than without them, but the feeling is one of more comfort because my
arms are not radiating to the cold metal side walls. The arm rests (side
and center) are still bare metal and feel noticeably cold -- got to put the
foam and fabric on them soon!
4) Only air leaks are from Van's black eyeball vents --need to take them off
and seal up the entire periphery.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 27 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Flying to the Bahamas |
Depends on what you want. I've spent two summers on Eluthera in the
Bahamas. But Eluthera isn't the place to go if you're looking for hot spots
with lots of partying. This is a quite, lay in the sun and sip goombay
punch kind of place. They have a Club Med on the island and several B&B's.
Most of the beaches were deserted when I was there. I liked it. There are
two airports on the island if memory serves. I don't know anything about
the airports as I wasn't a pilot when I was there.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Owens, Laird [mailto:Owens(at)aerovironment.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 1:40 PM
To: rv-list
Subject: RV-List: Flying to the Bahamas
To all,
I've been thinking about flying down to the Bahamas to
sample some of the rum and lay in the sun after Sun n Fun. (Hey....that
almost rhymes).
Since I mentioned it on the list, several folks sent me
notes about what days to try to attend SnF (opening weekend seems to be the
busiest). A couple even sent some stuff about the Bahamas. Thanks.
To those who have been to the Bahamas, I'm looking to find
some ideas of places to go and do. I checked the archives, and I thought
I'd as some of the new folks. Any suggestions? (I've already checked into
Pittstown Point Landing. Their booked, darn it).
I've also been comparing bird strike notes with Jim Baker,
who hit a bird out of Kansas, and he also mentioned that he was thinking
about a trip to the Bahamas around that time. (BTW, Jim (who is not on the
list) is having a hell of a time getting his insurance company, AIG, to pay
off on his claim. He said he say more to the list after the claim is
finished). He sent a note off to the Bahamas about what it requires to fly
an Expermental into there.
He asked me to pass it on to the list for the archives:
----- Original Message -----
From: <grolle(at)gobahamas.com>
To:
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 8:01 AM
Subject: Permission to Fly Experimental Aircraft in Bahamas
>
> Hello Mr. Baker, please see note attachment below. If you
need further
> information, pls call me at 800-327-7678 ext. 235
>
> Thanks
> Greg Rolle
>
>
> Permission to Fly Experimental Aircraft in The
Islands Of The
Bahamas
>
> Applications with the list of requirements are to be
faxed to
Bahamas
> Civil Aviation Department (at the address listed
below) and a
> response is usually within 48 hours
>
> * Certificate of Registration
> * Special Airworthiness Certificate
> * Experimental Operating Limitations
> * Insurance Certificate
> * Pilot,s License
> * Medical Certificate
> * Radio Station License
> * Radio & Nav Aid Equipment Fitted
> * Named Pilots A & P Mechanics Certificate
statement by A & P
> Mechanic that the named pilot is competent to
carry out pre-flight
> and line maintenance on this aircraft
> * Particulars of two relatives or friends who may
be contacted in
> the event of accident
> * Destination airport and area of operation
> * Expected date of arrival and departure
>
>
> Department Of Civil Aviation
> P.O. Box 975
> Nassau, Bahamas
> Telephone: (242) 377-5137
> Facsimile: (242) 377-5288
>
> If further information is needed please call me at
800-327-7678
>
> Greg Rolle
>
See you all later,
Laird RV-6
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Laurence" <plaurencepc(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need pic of throttle quad. |
>
>BILL
>i'll snap a pix of it tonight, i may be able to discribe it to you off
>list
>if you want.
>scott
>tampa rv6a yes with 3 lever quadrant on center console
>
>Scott,
Do have a drawing of your quadrant?
I have a picture and a cad drawing of a manual trim wheel if your
interested. I decided to try and and combine an electric trim with a manual
wheel like on the spam cans.
Peter Laurence
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroquip 303 |
> as to how much pressure you used when testing out your hoses. It's my
> understanding that the 303 will handle up to 3000 PSI and the 701 that I
> will be using for fuel will only handle up to 1000 PSI. Did you test it
to
> the limit or did you just go 50%? I want to make sure they are good but I
> don't want to do any destructive testing just to prove a point.
I tested the hoses right up to 1000psi, which is the listed max operating
pressure for the hoses I built. Ultimate is probably 2 or 3 times that, but
don't go there. Marked the position of the hose in the fittings with
masking tape, and manipulated the hoses at pressure (wear gloves, even
though the hydraulic fluid is incompressible, the hoses expand and store a
little energy). I verified that no movement occurred (or whatever the
instructions allowed, although I saw no movement at all). I suppose there
is some "official" way to test them, but I feel confident in this method,
given how much above normal pressures this test is.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A (getting ready to rivet the skin above the instrument panel and
associated spagetti)
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
rv-list
| Subject: | RV8A: Rollover bar and seatback support |
Hi Folks
I have read over time, several messages regarding the fact that the
rollover bar W-814 is too narrow for the 8 fuse and needs to be bend
further apart.
How is the success rate for the W-808 seatback support and/or the W-823
tall man's option seatback support.
mine are about 1/2" too narror, send email to van's and my fuse width
checks out within 1/16 to 1/8th of the prototype.
has anybody done surgery/bending on the w-808 or w-823 and if so how did
the flanges meet up with the F805 and F806 ribs after spreading ??
Gert
80721
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | earl fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Thanks, that is the best idea I seen on the rv-list in a long time.
I sure will try it.
Earl RV4
Mike Thompson wrote:
>
>
> > In a message dated 1/16/01 2:40:11 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> > eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com writes:
> >
> > << I find it impossible to drill > through the skirt with the canopy
> > on the
> > frame. I am starting to drill the skirt directly to the frame but am
> > afraid
> > It won't line up due to the thickness of the canopy. Those of you who
> > have
> > gotten through this, how did you do it? Helllllllpppppppeeeee. >>
>
> I sorry I haven't been paying attention to this thread as I'm building
> a -6... but I have exactly the answer you need.
> Read the following article that I sent to Doug Reeves:
>
> http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/articles/themagicofmylar.htm
>
> The trick you seek is to first use a transparent template to drill
> through the plexi and into the frame, then use that template to
> back-drill your skirts.
> I used some .032 Mylar as I had it on hand - but since the skirts are
> fairly straight you could use a sheet of plastic from a poster frame.
>
> Let me know if you have questions - I hope you see this in time to
> avoid problems!
>
> - Mike
>
> ====
> Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
> Austin, TX, USA
> RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
> EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
> PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
>
>
>
> Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
> http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Persyk <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 4:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: Heater Data
>
>Here is some recent heater data from my 6A: Two Robins Wings heat muffs in
>series. OAT monitored at wing tip and IAT (inside air t) monitored at
>triangular channel at side of tipup canopy.
>OAT 20.1 F
>IAT 52.7 F
>Sun bright but at low 35 deg elevation in afternoon 3:30 pm -- sky clear
>Flew with long sleeve shirt and open sweater
>
>Some observations:
>1) When the sun reflects into the cabin off my unpainted wing during a turn
>it feels really hot! I will have to get the plane painted before summer!
>2) I put on thin cotton gloves because the stick (bare metal) felt cold on
>second flight -- plane had been outside for about 2 hours -- I usually
start
>out from a heated hangar.
>3) We now have the quilted fabric from DJ on the side panels. The IAT is
no
>warmer than without them, but the feeling is one of more comfort because my
>arms are not radiating to the cold metal side walls. The arm rests (side
>and center) are still bare metal and feel noticeably cold -- got to put the
>foam and fabric on them soon!
>4) Only air leaks are from Van's black eyeball vents --need to take them
off
>and seal up the entire periphery.
>
>Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 27 hours
>Hampshire, IL C38
Here is the data for night flight, no sun to warm the interior:
OAT 24.0 F
IAT 44.8 F
It looks like the difference between late afternoon sun and night is roughly
ten degrees F, accounting for the higher OAT this evening. I recall that in
my 5 F OAT flying with bright noonday sun, it was very warm in the cabin and
I had to reduce the heater output.
By way of comparison, the RV is colder inside than a '75 C172. Nonetheless,
I think my wife and I will find it a comfortable cross country machine, day
and night VFR.
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flying into and out of the Bahamas Info |
I had stored the following notes regarding flying to the Bahamas and I
beleive it is good info.
Bernie Kerr, 6A flying 70 hours, SE Fla
Subject: Experimental Aircraft Bahamas Procedures & Clearances
You first have to get permission to fly an experimental into the Bahamas.
Send to:
Chief Operations Officer
Civil Aviation Department
Nassau, Bahamas
ph (242) 377 5288
fax(242) 377 2166
Copies of your:
Pilots License
Medical Certificate
Repairmans Certificate or an A&P certification of air worthiness
Insurance
Registration
Copy of the Limitations
In addition you will need to send the time period involved - departure
airport - route and
destination - and ETE. You do not have to send a copy of your radio
license.
They
understand that we no longer need them.
--------- Returning to US --------------
It is recommended that you depart and return out of Ft. Pierce (St. Lucie
Co.
Airport).
Customs is much easier to work with there.
BEFORE DEPARTURE BACK TO US
1) File flight plan with ADCUS (advise Customs). The ADCUS is useless as
Customs will
NOT be notified. That is why you - 2) Call US Customs-St.Lucie by phone
(561) 461
1733.
Give them the ETA.
Get the name and badge number of the officer.
Get the in-flight Customs freq.( )to use to later
get your Customs entry number (sqk.#).
AFTER DEPARTURE
1) Call Freeport, or Nassau, Control for flight following.
2) As soon as they turn you loose, BEFORE crossing the ADIZ, contact
Customs
FS
using the freq. given by phone above. Customs will give you a discrete
entry
number.
Sqk. this
number and WRITE it down (SQK#).
3) Then contact Miami Center for flight following through the
ADIZ. Use the freq. shown on the Miami charts. They will give you a
new
sqk.(reason for writing the Customs number down.)
4) When close to Ft. Pierce cancel flight following and call
Ft. Pierce Air Center on 122.95. Tell them your ETA 10 min.??) and
ask them to inform the Customs Office on the field. This makes
Customs happy. Stay in your plane until they come out to the plane.
Sounds like a lot but it really is not that bad. This will be my third
trip.
Customs is really not bad at Ft. Pierce as long as they don't get a feeling
that you are
hiding something. I carry a life vest but no one ever questioned me about it
nor have I read
any requirement for vests. From all the reports I have the plane, floats so
that you can
walk on the wing when it is in the water. You are not over water for very
long so that
you
can't reach land you fly high and from island to island.
Customs both US and Bahamian require a passport or a drivers license with a
picture.
You must have one of these for every passenger or Customs will fine you
$5,00.
Have a great flight but remember the food is fantastic and you can hurt
yourself. The islands are beautiful from the air but you cannot take
pictures unless you
have a filter on your camera - you will get a whole roll of pictures of your
instrument
panel reflected in your canopy. No deep diving 24 hrs. prior to flying
back.
Ken Brimmer Cozy III (ESN) Maryland
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Record for 1st year of flying (637 hours) DNA |
A friend of mine out of Stuart, Eddie (Turbo) Darcy, flew his RV6A for the
first time on Jan 17, 2000. He stopped by TCAP today (Jan 17, 2001) and he
has 637 hours on his plane. That's probably a record. Can anyone top it?
Bernie Kerr, 6A wimpy 70 hours, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Berryhill" <dwberryhill(at)home.com> |
>
> Well folks, it finally happened. Thanks to Brain Denk and several others
we
> have gotten our oil temp down to acceptable levels. And it was, indeed,
the
> oil cooler. I was able to get my hands on an oil cooler out of an Aztec,
> which is the same size as the Positech, installed it and the temps came
out
> right around 185 to 190. Even flat out with throttle full forward the
> highest I could get was 202. It is wonderful to see.
>
> The Aztec oil cooler is a Stewart Warner/Harrison two pass cooler. The
part
> number is 8432R. The hole mounting pattern was a bit different from the
> Positech but not too far off. Anyways, problem solved. Now on to the
more
> fun parts of the test flying.
......snip
Newbie question: How did you originally decide on the Positech cooler? Is
this the unit that Vans sells/recommends? If so, would you recommend
starting with the Aztec oil cooler when building?
Dave Berryhill
No RV (yet!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio Shack (was Capacitive sender - BNC connector) |
I considered once getting into quality control as a career. It is mostly
statistics, you know. Trouble is the pay is lousy and it isn't really much
fun.
Companies manufacture stuff and statistically sample the resulting product
for number of defects. Nothing is perfect and the best products sometimes
go bad. A product might be 90% good and 10% bad. If the inspector only
checks one item he has a high probability of finding a good one. But the
purchaser may not want product that is only 90%. Maybe he is an RV
builder and expects 100%. :-) So, a sampling plan is devised such as
grabbing 10 parts and random and if any are bad, rejecting the lot. Or
maybe then grabbing 100 and seeing if less than say, 5% are bad. Say more
than 5%, reject the lot. These are small low cost products and individual
testing or measuring is not economically feasible.
So the entire lot, maybe 10,000 parts are thrown out!! Nah, they are sold
to guys like Radio Shack, Sears etc. To the customer it is the same story
the junkyard gives when you buy a used transmission - "if it ain't no good
bring it back and we'll give you another!"
Radio Shack does guarantee its stuff and 90% (??) of the time you will be
okay. I buy from them when I must.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK - Certificated and ready to fly!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Spruce eyeball vent adapters |
For those needing an adapter to connect the aeroduct to Spruce #1303600
EYEBALL Vents, a friend is making them out of aluminum to fit 1 1/2" aeroduct
for $7.50 a piece or 2 for $14.00 plus s&h. Email me for availability of
these, other hose sizes are available.
See attachment for adapter.
Bill Bruton
RV-8 wiring and plumbing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
> 4) Only air leaks are from Van's black eyeball vents --need to take them
off
> and seal up the entire periphery.
>
I cut some rubber sheeting, maybe .060" or so thick, into half circle shapes
a little larger than the ID of the vent. I fastened these to the "throttle"
with an aluminum doubler a little smaller than the throttle with a couple of
small screws. I put one of these half circles on the front and one on the
backside of the throttle. This seals very well, and should last the life of
the plane.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
What do you guys think of the Niagara oil coolers?
Len Leggette, RV-8A
North Carolina (N901LL res)
Engine Hung - On to Accessories!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Dennis,
Why did you decide to put them in series rather than have two complete
systems?
Where are you drawing your air from?
Did you restrict the flow?
Did you add springs around the exhaust?
Ross
> >Two Robins Wings heat muffs in series.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel Estrada F." <dani_estrada(at)infosel.net.mx> |
| Subject: | Vertical Stab FINISHED...!!! |
Hello!
Today, January 17, I have finished my vertical stab...!!!
I want to thank to my wife Liliana. She hates planes but shes was very kind
with me and helped me with the bucking bar...
Well, after a deep clean of my shop I will begen with rudder..
Se'ya later!
Daniel Estrada F.
RV6A
Mexico City
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 1/17/01 8:07:34 PM Pacific Standard Time, Lenleg(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< What do you guys think of the Niagara oil coolers? >>
Mine works great and is quite sturdy mounted on the left rear baffle.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Question |
In a message dated 1/17/01 9:26:58 AM Pacific Standard Time,
mrobert569(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< The numbers are good. I have a VM1000 installed and have verified the
burn
rate as indicated with the fill-up numbers. I have also verified the tach
with an independent hand held tach. I hadn't thought about verifying the MP
numbers but I can say that at rest without the engine running the MP
readings agrees pretty much with the baro pressure settings of both my
standard altimeter, the RMI MicroEncoder, and the tower readings. >>
Mike-
Just out of curiosity try taking the snubber (the brass fitting) out of the
manifold pressure sensor and just feed the line to the sensor directly. I
have found that if you use both a very small fitting at the engine and the
snubber that VM provides, the manifold pressure indication doesn't drop
properly as you retard the throttle and you are actually running lower
pressures that indicated.
I threw my snubber away and have been snub free for almost three years. It
feels great!
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 1/17/01 6:35:15 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dwberryhill(at)home.com writes:
<< Newbie question: How did you originally decide on the Positech cooler? Is
this the unit that Vans sells/recommends? >>
Many people chose the Positech for that age old reason, LOW PRICE. This is
too critical an item IMO to try to save money on.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Audio Amplifier |
In a message dated 1/17/01 8:49:29 AM Pacific Standard Time,
dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< Just for information -- the sound level in an RV is considerably higher
than
in a typical "small" airplane. In my RV and others I have flown in it is a
combination of wind noise and engine noise, each about the same in power
level. I have not quantified it, but if I can borrow the General Radio dB
meter from my pre-retirement employer I will do so. >>
I have quantified it. I measured 104 dBA at full throttle sea level on
takeoff.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: air box hose adaptor |
About a week ago I posted a message in response to a question about the carb
heat flange and I mentioned I'd made a custom one that closed off the
gaps.... anyway someone, I don't remember who, asked me how much MP change I
get with the carb heat on. I'd never checked that before, but I went out
today and did so -- its between 0.1" and 0.2" as far as I can read from the
gauge (steam gauge). BTW I get about a 15 degree temp rise and a drop of
maybe 40 RPM. This is all at runup power, 1700 RPM.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need pic of throttle quad. |
Bill:
I hope this helps. I just went out and took a couple of pictures as my
sheet metal hasn't gone over it yet.
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
Bill Ludwig wrote:
>
>
> I disassembled my Van's three lever throttle quadrant a couple of months ago
> and, even though I made a quick sketch of it, I can't remember how it goes
> together!
>
> I'm looking for a pic of the underside of it where the smaller phenolic
> pieces go.
>
> If you can snap one, please send to me at ludwig(at)azstarnet.com
>
> Thanks,
>
> - Bill in Tucson
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Fuel vent tube attach |
Hi All,
How are people attaching the fuel vent tube to the fuselage? I'm
thinking of tie-wrap to the longeron, firewall, and F602, but wondering
whether I should go for something more substantial?
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Fuel vent tube attach |
Adel clamps.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz>
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 3:01 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Fuel vent tube attach
>
> Hi All,
> How are people attaching the fuel vent tube to the fuselage? I'm
> thinking of tie-wrap to the longeron, firewall, and F602, but wondering
> whether I should go for something more substantial?
>
> Frank.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Schilling" <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Record for 1st year of flying (637 hours) DNA |
Eddie must not work for a living!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Audio Amplifier |
> << Just for information -- the sound level in an RV is considerably
> higher
> than
> in a typical "small" airplane. In my RV and others I have flown in
> it is a
> combination of wind noise and engine noise, each about the same in
> power
> level. I have not quantified it, but if I can borrow the General
> Radio dB
> meter from my pre-retirement employer I will do so. >>
>
> I have quantified it. I measured 104 dBA at full throttle sea level
> on takeoff.
This is why it is better to not try and sound-proof the cabin; the
weight and expense is not worth it - you will not reduce the sound
levels appreciably (has been the experience of many).
Better to insulate the firewall against heat and the cabin minimally
for your weather and use ANR headsets against the noise.
Mike Thompon
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Canopy (nearly done!)
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
01/18/2001 09:02:59
Same conclusion....Vans OEM pricing was at or below what Mattituck
estimated as the kit price. Also, if you sell your Vans engine(when your
done with it) with a real dataplate..... you can get real money. I doubt
that you can recoup as much from selling a clone parts engine. I would not
be interested unless the engine kit folks offered their engine for way less
than Vans OEM real lycoming engine(pricing).
"Bob Japundza"
m> cc:
Sent by: Subject: RE: RV-List: Kit
engines
owner-rv-list-server@mat
ronics.com
01/17/2001 04:37 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
Right about the time Superior announced the XP-360 two or three years
ago, their target price was pretty close to the price Van's gets for new
Lyc's. Remember, Vans sells new engines for substantially less than
many of their competitors. The difference in price, from what I
remember, was not worth the time/effort to put the engine together and
do a proper runup.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Question |
Mike, I think you either made a mistake or you are on your way to great
wealth!
Let me see if I have this right:
Power is 65% of 200hp which is 130 hp
Fuel burn is 7.7 gph which is 46 pounds per hour
BSFC (Brake (?) specific fuel consumption) is 46/130 or 0.354
WOW!
This BSFC is, as I recall, down near where the best economy cars try to be.
Lycoming is claiming something like 0.47 and some say 0.55 is more like it.
One of the claims of the auto engine experimenters (Chev V6 anyway) is for
0.40. Below 0.40 is very, very hard to do.
**IF** there is a measurement error then either the fuel burn is greater or
the horsepower produced is less. There isn't anything else being burned is
there? Like nitrous? Hopefully not valves! What do your CHTs run?
Measuring the horsepower is the most difficult. It is possible to determine
where 65% is by going to altitude where air pressure is shown on charts.
The altitude is density altitude, right? Corrected? But this is then 65%
of what? Just to quote that engine is a 200hp one might not be that
dependable due to manufacturing variation and installation differences like
timing, ram air, intake & exhaust restrictions etc.
Airplane speed is, I think, mostly a factor of drag. One thing is clear and
that is that electronic ignition is a fuel saver and as fuel prices escalate
and huge stock market gains evaporate, it may be a wise investment.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK - Certificated and ready to fly!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: USATCO angle drill attachment |
Two things about right angle drills:
1. You need one in several places (on the RV6a at least)
2. You only need it a few times and only with 3/16 and less bits
I bought one, an attachment to a regular drill - Terry from Avery I think
and it has served quite well. It shows no sign of breaking up. One thing
it said in instructions was use slow speeds and light pressures. I used a
battery drill. Under $50.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK - Certificated and ready to fly!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
Use your rifle cleaning rod and a suitably sized brush and/or a few
patches. Use a soft nylon brush so you don't damage the inside of the hose.
Just like cleaning your shotgun or rifle. Your choice of solvent.... I used
gasoline.
Yeah, yeah, I know it's a fire hazard. That's why there's an extinguisher
on my wall. You've got one in your shop, don't you?
Vince in Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Positech Oil Cooler |
Listers,
I've read a lot of negatives about the Positech oil cooler. At the advice
of Van's, I bought one and put it on the O-320 in my RV-6A which will
probably fly in a month or two.
I read between the lines of the RVAtor that Van's is not using it on the
airplanes that they build in their own shop. I intend to fly with the
Positech and see what happens, but wondered if there were flying RVs out
there that used the Positech and had a good experience.
I must say, the damn thing looks pretty well put together.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Audio Amplifier
Thread-Index: AcCBYt9Oh6+1/0dITcGXi5nhg5c8VgAAg45A
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Mike,
I'll have to disagree with you there. I have quite a bit of insulation
in the forward cockpit (doubled up on the floor, where most of the noise
comes from) and carpeting on the fuselage sides and have had on more
than one occasion pilots comment on the noise level not being any louder
than a 172, with normal headsets on. In fact, I have made cell-phone
calls (hey! look up!) and don't have to shout too loud. With all the
insulation I have, big motor and some goodies, my bird weighed 1076 with
calibrated digital scales. The insulation may have added a few
unnecessary pounds, but my feet stay warm and it doesn't sound like a
harley inside. It doesn't hurt to insulate.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
> This is why it is better to not try and sound-proof the cabin; the
> weight and expense is not worth it - you will not reduce the sound
> levels appreciably (has been the experience of many).
> Better to insulate the firewall against heat and the cabin minimally
> for your weather and use ANR headsets against the noise.
>
> Mike Thompon
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Canopy (nearly done!)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ristic Vlastimir <rileyu(at)rad.net.id> |
| Subject: | Throttle Quadrants |
Hi everyone,
Does somebody has experience with side throttle quadrant installation on
RV-6 ?
Thanks,
RILE
Indonesia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Vanremog(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 1/17/01 6:35:15 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>
> Many people chose the Positech for that age old reason, LOW PRICE. This is
> too critical an item IMO to try to save money on.
>
It seems that this thread is bashing the quality of Positech coolers. I
personally think the quality of the positech is top notch. In a side by
side comparison of the Positech vs Niagra cooler I would vote for the
Positech any day over the Niagra for durability. The Positech is one
beefy unit and I currently have my Positech back on my plane instead of
the Niagra for this reason. Now as far as cooling goes this may be a
differnet story.
I originally had hi oil temps in the summer months. 90+ OAT. I installed
a Niagra cooler (in place of the positech) and at first thought the
problem was solved. Well it was not and I battled hi temps all summer
until talking to Aerosport Power and deciding to swap out the vernatherm
as it may have been sticking. Well, lots have happened since that day
and the vernatherm was not replaced until the cooler months came again.
So I am now again flying with my positech oil cooler (did I mention it
is built strong) and running 180F all day long (vernatherm setting) and
will only find out once warmer weather comes if I need to do something
different for my oil temps. One item of note is that my engine takes at
least 20 minutes at cruise power to stabalize temps on my first flight
of the day. Any temps taken before the 20 minutes are suspect.
So with all that said I am still waiting for the warm summer months to
again evaluate my Positech cooler. I do not believe that the Positech is
as effecient as the Niagra but am eager to find out if it will indeed
cool my engine oil this summer. One person stated that 215F seemed hi,
well I think 215F is just right.
--
Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado
RV-6A N99PZ Flying
Engine: Aerosport Power O-360-A1A with H2AD Pistons
Prop: Sensenich 72FM8S9-1-83
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Reeves, Doug" <Douglas.Reeves(at)archongroup.com> |
| Subject: | Texas-size RV Fly-In June 2nd (Mark your calendars) |
Mike Anderson's Cougar Landing Annual Central Texas RV Fly-In is scheduled
for June 2nd in Waco, TX. Its central location should make it an attractive
destination for many of you. Everyone is welcome. Much more information
at: http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/TXRV.htm.
Hope to see you there,
Doug Reeves
www.vansaircraft.net
PS. On another note, if you didn't know, Ed Hicks is coming to the states
in April-May to do air-to-air photography. More info at
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/EdHicksVisit2001.htm.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rpflanze(at)iquest.net |
Thanks to all who responded to my query about replacement brake linings. The
best thing I found was to order a replacement set of linings from Avery. They
include the appropriate rivets and they are less than Aircraft $pruce. In addition,
I ordered from Avery a set of dies that fit my squeezer that are used to set
the brake rivets. That way I don't need to order another rivet squeezer. Couldn't
have been easier and they shipped it the same day I ordered it. Thanks for
the advice John Kitz.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (110 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Positech Oil Cooler |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Positech Oil Cooler
Thread-Index: AcCBcd6VPNHN7IRrS9yFyRF8dhkBwgAAdUPQ
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
I've actually entertained the idea of trying out the Positech cooler.
Right now with the temps cold I have my Niagara cooler taped about 80%
shut (180 resulting temp, cooler mounted on left rear baffle); when it
was over 100 degrees out this past summer I still had it taped closed
about 20% of the inlet area to maintain 180-190. On takeoff I'd briefly
touch 200 degrees.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
> I've read a lot of negatives about the Positech oil cooler.
> At the advice
> of Van's, I bought one and put it on the O-320 in my RV-6A which will
> probably fly in a month or two.
>
> I read between the lines of the RVAtor that Van's is not
> using it on the
> airplanes that they build in their own shop. I intend to fly with the
> Positech and see what happens, but wondered if there were
> flying RVs out
> there that used the Positech and had a good experience.
>
> I must say, the damn thing looks pretty well put together.
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, VT
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Ross <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 11:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Heater Data
>
>Dennis,
>
>Why did you decide to put them in series rather than have two complete
>systems?
>Where are you drawing your air from?
>Did you restrict the flow?
>Did you add springs around the exhaust?
>
>Ross
>
>
> > >Two Robins Wings heat muffs in series.
>
The consensus among my builder and physicist friends was that the most heat
transfer would result from a series arrangement. The air comes in from a
flange on the front sloping baffle. I pick air off the rear engine baffle
for cabin cold air, in addition to two NACA vents. I did not go the spring
route because the springs constitute less than 1% of the transfer area and
as such I don't understand how they can help. If flow rate reduction is the
answer than I can simply partially close my air flow damper -- so far I've
not found that to measurably increase the cabin temperature.
By the way, today in bright sun at 10 am the OAT was 25F and the IAT was 55F
with the heater choked off completely! Sun is good!
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 30 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Positech Oil Cooler |
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen J. Soule <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Date: Thursday, January 18, 2001 10:24 AM
Subject: RV-List: Positech Oil Cooler
>
>Listers,
>
>I've read a lot of negatives about the Positech oil cooler. At the advice
>of Van's, I bought one and put it on the O-320 in my RV-6A which will
>probably fly in a month or two.
>
>I read between the lines of the RVAtor that Van's is not using it on the
>airplanes that they build in their own shop. I intend to fly with the
>Positech and see what happens, but wondered if there were flying RVs out
>there that used the Positech and had a good experience.
>
>I must say, the damn thing looks pretty well put together.
>
>Steve Soule
>Huntington, VT
>
I have the Positec and in fall/winter flying I have problems maintaining the
recommended 180F at 75% cruise power. I even have a hinged door that blocks
the air flow but it gives my only an 8F rise when closed. The cooler is
mounted directly to the rear left baffle. I am puzzled why others have
problems, but I believe they are real. Can the units vary from one to the
other? That would be scary!
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 30 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Audio Amplifier |
Bob,
I hope you can find someone with a decibel meter to measure the sound level
in your cockpit. I too have thick floor insulation and rugs and side
insulation and my plane is MUCH louder than my C172.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Japundza <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
Date: Thursday, January 18, 2001 10:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Audio Amplifier
>
>Mike,
>
>I'll have to disagree with you there. I have quite a bit of insulation
>in the forward cockpit (doubled up on the floor, where most of the noise
>comes from) and carpeting on the fuselage sides and have had on more
>than one occasion pilots comment on the noise level not being any louder
>than a 172, with normal headsets on. In fact, I have made cell-phone
>calls (hey! look up!) and don't have to shout too loud. With all the
>insulation I have, big motor and some goodies, my bird weighed 1076 with
>calibrated digital scales. The insulation may have added a few
>unnecessary pounds, but my feet stay warm and it doesn't sound like a
>harley inside. It doesn't hurt to insulate.
>
>Bob Japundza
>RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
>
>> This is why it is better to not try and sound-proof the cabin; the
>> weight and expense is not worth it - you will not reduce the sound
>> levels appreciably (has been the experience of many).
>> Better to insulate the firewall against heat and the cabin minimally
>> for your weather and use ANR headsets against the noise.
>>
>> Mike Thompon
>> Austin, TX
>> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
>> Canopy (nearly done!)
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Newman" <newmanb(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: USATCO angle drill attachment |
For small holes in light metal, you can get by using a mini angle die grinder.
Feather the trigger to modulate the speed. Much cheaper, fits the tightest
paces better than a right angle drill adapter, and very useful for other
purposes as well. The die grinder will have only 1/8" and 1/4" collets.
Packing tape wrapped around the shank of a drill bit makes an adequate low
tech bushing to fit the bit to the 1/4" collet.
Bob
>
> I am thinking of purchasing the angel drill attachment from Aircraft
> Spruce (p/n: 12-18501 , price $76.00) but decided to research it
> first.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
You could probably pick of the signals you need from the Garmin Receiver
that feeds the IPAQ.
There is a small box which combines the DC power and serial out signal from
the Garmin receiver.
Add two wires and you'd have it!
Ed Cole
RV6A Finish
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Bowen [SMTP:Larry(at)bowenaero.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 8:00 PM
> To: Rv-List
> Subject: RE: RV-List: GPS Agony
>
>
> Aha!!!!!! Output for autopilot control. That's it -- the deciding
> factor.
> I had forgotten to consider that! I'm going with the 295. Thank you
> sir...and everyone else for your very valuable input.
>
> Ya gotta love "the list"!
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 fuse, Garmin 295 enabled
> Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> Web: http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Tim Lewis [mailto:timrv6a(at)earthlink.net]
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 8:35 PM
> > To: Larry Bowen; rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Agony
> >
> >
> > On 16 Jan 2001, at 17:20, Larry Bowen wrote:
> >
> > > I need help deciding what to replace my Garmin 195 with. I can't
> > > decide!!
> >
> > I didn't see IFR approaches listed on the IPAQ. That's a big deal for
> > me. If my VOR/ILS calls it quits I can still shoot an approach with my
> > Garmin 195.
> >
> > Another item: I drive my Navaid autopilot with my Garmin 195 output.
> > Will the IPAQ do that? It's a great feature to have.
> >
> > Tim
> >
> > ******
> > Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
> > RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
> > http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
> > ******
> > "Don't throw your vote away...
> > Let the Supreme Court throw it away for you."
> >
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Positech Oil Cooler |
"Stephen J. Soule" wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I've read a lot of negatives about the Positech oil cooler. At the advice
> of Van's, I bought one and put it on the O-320 in my RV-6A which will
> probably fly in a month or two.
>
> I read between the lines of the RVAtor that Van's is not using it on the
> airplanes that they build in their own shop. I intend to fly with the
> Positech and see what happens, but wondered if there were flying RVs out
> there that used the Positech and had a good experience.
>
> I must say, the damn thing looks pretty well put together.
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, VT
The firewall-mounted Positech cooler on my RV-6 works well, too well in
cold weather. The only time I have seen oil temps above 195 is one
evening last August when the OAT was 102F.
However, the O-320 is easier to cool than the 180 and 200 hp 360's. My
flying pal had to replace the Positech on his 200 hp RV-8 in order to
get it to cool properly.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 230 hrs)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Positech Oil Cooler |
>"I intend to fly with the
> Positech and see what happens, but wondered if there were flying RVs out
> there that used the Positech and had a good experience.
>
> I must say, the damn thing looks pretty well put together.
>
See my earlier post about my experience and ongoing tests. And I agree
it is well put together
--
Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado
RV-6A N99PZ Flying
Engine: Aerosport Power O-360-A1A
Prop: Sensenich 72FM8S9-1-83
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bert murillo <bertrv6(at)yahoo.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Throttle Quadrants |
Hi Rile,
When I was building, I was determined to fly with my right hand on the stick and
left hand on the throttle. My father talked me out of flying from the right
side, so that left me to figure out how to put the throttle and mixture on the
left side of the airplane. (Later, after flying with Mike Seager in Vans RV,
RV66VA, I quickly adapted to flying with my left hand. Just another data point).
I tried several different quadrants and even made a couple of my own to try to
work it out. I never came up with a solution I liked until I put controls in
the bottom left side of the instrument panel. You can see a picture at:
http://members3.clubphoto.com/laird244198/Laird_RV-6_N515L/
The throttle position worked out very well. I fly formation with several of the
SoCal guys, and it's easy to operate smoothly.
I know Tracy Saylor, in Southern California, has a quadrant that he likes and sells.
It mount up pretty high to keep it from interfering with your leg. That
seems to be the biggest problem, that and getting it in a comfortable position,
fore and aft. The spar carry thru structure is RIGHT in the way. You can
reach Tracy at 805-933-8225 or tracysaylor(at)earthlink.net
Good luck in finding a solution that works for you.
Laird
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Thu, Jan 18, 2001 9:48 AM
Subject: RV-List: Throttle Quadrants
Hi everyone,
Does somebody has experience with side throttle quadrant installation on
RV-6 ?
Thanks,
RILE
Indonesia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 01/18/2001 12:45:54 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< If flow rate reduction is the
answer than I can simply partially close my air flow damper -- so far I've
not found that to measurably increase the cabin temperature. >>
If you have the heat boxes from Vans, they allow full flow all the time
through the heat muff. I think this helps keep the exhaust pipe from
over-heating inside the muff? When you throttle back on the cabin heat, you
are dumping the unwanted heated air into the lower cowl area. Net flow
through the muff is not appreciably slowed or changed, IMO.
Bill Boyd
reinstalling engine after overhaul and stuffing SS scrubbies in the muff
while I'm at it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Audio Amplifier |
Did you happen to measure the results for cruise. And what filter was
chosen for the dB meter? Was it flat noise you were measuring? I believe
my numbers were for cruise conditions.
For your information, I reproduce numbers reported in Burt Rutan's Canard
Pusher # 15.
VariEze no mufflers 75% pwr 98.5 dB
VariEze mufflers 75% pwr 96.5 dB
VariEze no mufflers 50% pwr 95.0 dB
VariEze mufflers 50% pwr 93.5 dB
Cessna 150 75% pwr 93.5 dB
Piper PA28-140 75% pwr 91.0 dB
VariEze numbers were 1 to 2 dB higher for back seat. Filter not specified.
My VariEze actually fires the exhaust straight out the back, so my numbers
are probably lower. I have not had any problem whatsoever using the older
David Clark headsets.
If I flew for long periods in my Cessna 150, I returned to earth feeling a
little dopey for awhile if not wearing headsets. Understanding the radio
was a bit of a problem, even with the speaker only a few inches from my left
ear. With headsets, no problem.
Garth Shearing
VariEze and RV-6A 75%
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: January 17, 2001 10:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Audio Amplifier
>
> In a message dated 1/17/01 8:49:29 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
>
> << Just for information -- the sound level in an RV is considerably higher
> than
> in a typical "small" airplane. In my RV and others I have flown in it is
a
> combination of wind noise and engine noise, each about the same in power
> level. I have not quantified it, but if I can borrow the General Radio
dB
> meter from my pre-retirement employer I will do so. >>
>
> I have quantified it. I measured 104 dBA at full throttle sea level on
> takeoff.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | engine mount bolt torque |
Unable to find a concensus in the archives; the correct torque seems to
depend on the psi rating of the bolt (40,000 vs. 90,000 psi)... so is there
someone who remembers the answer? I'm reinstalling the engine and don't
recall from 4 years ago what torque value is correct for the dynafocal Lord
mount bolts. Maybe the advice attributed to Tony Bingelis is right, just run
'em up good -n- snug and don't worry about it.
While we're at it, I'd like to know the specs for torqueing the nuts on the
mounting studs for the Marvel carb.
Thanks. It feels _good_ to be putting this thing back together!
Bill Boyd
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elect. Ignition question |
> Hi All:
>
> Before I buy my engine, I want to ask those
> with electronic ignition, if it is worth the extra
> big bucks I see it cost.
>
> What is the advantage of such system, any
> disadvantage beside cost..
Check the archives for details, but the short answer is:
You will have to spend a lot of time at high altitudes to make it cost
effective.
I think about electronic ignition as turbo charging for your spark
plugs.
Disadvantage: Have to support them with electrical juice. Lose your
alternator, battery runs down, no more spark. Want to have dual
alternators or dual batteries (or both?).
Best to mix electronic and magneto systems, that way you'll have
backup.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Finishing Canopy (slider)
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Painting jig |
Dave and I have just finished painting the fuselage & empennage, yes it
looks great but we started the prep two weeks before Christmas.
Our question is how have others supported there wings when painting. We have
the use of a auto paint booth, so it's not possible to install the wings.
All suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
Niantic, CT & Westerly, RI airport
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Snyder, Paul J (Grandview)" <Paul_Snyder(at)lord.com> |
| Subject: | engine mount bolt torque |
January 12, 2001 - January 18, 2001
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ka