RV-Archive.digest.vol-kb
January 18, 2001 - January 25, 2001
Tighten the 7/16 bolt to 450-500 in-lbs.
Paul Snyder
Lord Corporation
-----Original Message-----
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM [mailto:SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM] |
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 2:33 PM
| Subject: | engine mount bolt torque |
Unable to find a concensus in the archives; the correct torque seems to
depend on the psi rating of the bolt (40,000 vs. 90,000 psi)... so is there
someone who remembers the answer? I'm reinstalling the engine and don't
recall from 4 years ago what torque value is correct for the dynafocal Lord
mount bolts. Maybe the advice attributed to Tony Bingelis is right, just
run
'em up good -n- snug and don't worry about it.
While we're at it, I'd like to know the specs for torqueing the nuts on the
mounting studs for the Marvel carb.
Thanks. It feels _good_ to be putting this thing back together!
Bill Boyd
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: USATCO angle drill attachment |
The one that Avery Sells I found to be quite adequate...it is pretty
inexpensive for what I recall (maybe $30?) and has the bits you need for
your project. I found it to be a necessety in the building process.
Another option is to get a right angle drill attachment with a chuck on it
for the regular bits that won't work in the avery model. I bought a
chucked one from Harbor Freight for $12.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Newman" <newmanb(at)rocketmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 10:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: USATCO angle drill attachment
>
>
> For small holes in light metal, you can get by using a mini angle die
grinder.
> Feather the trigger to modulate the speed. Much cheaper, fits the
tightest
> paces better than a right angle drill adapter, and very useful for other
> purposes as well. The die grinder will have only 1/8" and 1/4" collets.
> Packing tape wrapped around the shank of a drill bit makes an adequate low
> tech bushing to fit the bit to the 1/4" collet.
>
> Bob
>
> >
> > I am thinking of purchasing the angel drill attachment from Aircraft
> > Spruce (p/n: 12-18501 , price $76.00) but decided to research it
> > first.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | earl fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Which poprivet do I use |
My RV-4 plans show either a AK 44 BS or AACQ-4-4 for riveting the
canopy to the bow. Don't recall ever seeing these pop rivets in the kit.
I have LP4-3, CS4-4, MD 42 BS and MK 319 BS pop rivets. Does anyone
know if I can use what I have or not?
Thanks, Earl RV4 fussing with the canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | earl fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: USATCO angle drill attachment |
I bought the same from Avery also and have been pleased with it..
Earl, RV4
kempthornes wrote:
>
>
> Two things about right angle drills:
>
> 1. You need one in several places (on the RV6a at least)
>
> 2. You only need it a few times and only with 3/16 and less bits
>
> I bought one, an attachment to a regular drill - Terry from Avery I think
> and it has served quite well. It shows no sign of breaking up. One thing
> it said in instructions was use slow speeds and light pressures. I used a
> battery drill. Under $50.
>
> Hal Kempthorne
> RV6a N7HK - Certificated and ready to fly!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>From: Lenleg(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Oil Coolers
>Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 22:58:39 EST
>
>
>What do you guys think of the Niagara oil coolers?
>
>Len Leggette, RV-8A
>North Carolina (N901LL res)
>Engine Hung - On to Accessories!
>
Len,
I installed a Niagara on the baffle when I removed the Positech from the
firewall. (Yes, this was NOT a scientific approach to problem solving, but
it solved the problem with the least amount of hassle.) The Niagara coolers
are very nice units and much lighter in weight vs. the Positech. My Positech
and Niagara coolers are physically the same size (in my case), but the
Niagara allows a LOT more air to pass between the oil cells. You hold the
Niagara up to the light, and you can see right through the cooling fins. Do
the same with the Positech, and it's a wonder that ANY airflow makes it
through the thing at all.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
O-360A4J/180hp/Sensenich 83"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>
>In a message dated 1/17/01 6:35:15 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>dwberryhill(at)home.com writes:
>
><< Newbie question: How did you originally decide on the Positech cooler?
>Is
> this the unit that Vans sells/recommends? >>
>
>Many people chose the Positech for that age old reason, LOW PRICE. This is
>too critical an item IMO to try to save money on.
>
>-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
>vanremog(at)aol.com
EXACTLY why I bought the Positech. I figured that if Van's offers it, then
it must be a viable, and lower cost alternative to the other brands. Not so,
in my experience with this product. I'm sure the Positech units have worked
for some applications, but, IMO, they are not at all a direct replacement
for the same sized Niagara/SW/Harrison units.
There are times to save money, but not on items of such critical importance
to safety of flight and engine longevity.
Let's be careful out there folks, and don't scrimp on the engine stuff.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Cockpit Insulation, was: Audio Amplifier |
--- Bob Japundza wrote:
> Mike,
>
> I'll have to disagree with you there. I have quite a bit of
> insulation
> in the forward cockpit (doubled up on the floor, where most of the
> noise
> comes from) and carpeting on the fuselage sides and have had on more
> than one occasion pilots comment on the noise level not being any
> louder
> than a 172, with normal headsets on. In fact, I have made cell-phone
> calls (hey! look up!) and don't have to shout too loud. With all the
> insulation I have, big motor and some goodies, my bird weighed 1076
> with calibrated digital scales.
Bob, I'm impressed. Talking with folks, seems enough insulation to
make a difference really brings a weight penalty. Care to share what
kind of insulation you used that is so effective? I didn't see
anything in the archives with both "insulation" and your name, from
previous discussions.
I also didn't mean to imply that minimal insulation would suit everyone
- when I mentioned "climate", I fully expect folks in the northern
climes to be willing to use a few pounds of payload for a cozy cockpit.
Here in Central Texas we are happy to just make the breeze move faster.
:)
If you found some light, effective sound-deadening material, I for one
would like to know about it!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Finishing Canopy
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler/long reply |
>It seems that this thread is bashing the quality of Positech coolers. I
>personally think the quality of the positech is top notch. In a side by
>side comparison of the Positech vs Niagra cooler I would vote for the
>Positech any day over the Niagra for durability. The Positech is one
>beefy unit and I currently have my Positech back on my plane instead of
>the Niagra for this reason. Now as far as cooling goes this may be a
>differnet story.
>
>I originally had hi oil temps in the summer months. 90+ OAT. I installed
>a Niagra cooler (in place of the positech) and at first thought the
>problem was solved. Well it was not and I battled hi temps all summer
>until talking to Aerosport Power and deciding to swap out the vernatherm
>as it may have been sticking. Well, lots have happened since that day
>and the vernatherm was not replaced until the cooler months came again.
>So I am now again flying with my positech oil cooler (did I mention it
>is built strong) and running 180F all day long (vernatherm setting) and
>will only find out once warmer weather comes if I need to do something
>different for my oil temps. One item of note is that my engine takes at
>least 20 minutes at cruise power to stabalize temps on my first flight
>of the day. Any temps taken before the 20 minutes are suspect.
>
>So with all that said I am still waiting for the warm summer months to
>again evaluate my Positech cooler. I do not believe that the Positech is
>as effecient as the Niagra but am eager to find out if it will indeed
>cool my engine oil this summer. One person stated that 215F seemed hi,
>well I think 215F is just right.
>
>--
>Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado
>RV-6A N99PZ Flying
>Engine: Aerosport Power O-360-A1A with H2AD Pistons
>Prop: Sensenich 72FM8S9-1-83
>
Gary,
Since we live sorta close, if we both make it to the same fly-in, we should
go up and compare numbers. We have basically the same engine, and the same
prop. Just different airframes. Hmm..well, it might prove interesting to
see what we come up with anyway.
As for quality of the coolers, I do agree that the Positech is an
outstanding example of manufacturing quality and ruggedness. The mounting
flanges on the Niagara are very soft and can be bent easily by mere finger
pressure. As long as this is noted, and the unit is braced on both sides in
it's mounted location, it should prove durable over a long term. Since it
is lighter, the Niagara shouldn't stress the mounting flanges as much as the
Posi. At least that's the way I look at it as an armchair engineer ;)
Running consistently at 215 is indeed OK, and far below redline. That's
where I typically operated at with the Posi. In my readings of John
Schwaner's "Skyranch Engineering Manual", I came to learn that instantaneous
oil temperatures inside the engine can be as much as 50 degrees HIGHER than
our gauges indicate. So, for me, I wanted to at least see that once the 190
degree vernatherm setting has been reached, there is a noticeable slowing of
the rising trend in oil temperature. To me, this means that the cooler is
indeed stripping off excess heat from the oil stream as it should. With the
Posi, I would see the temp climb to 190, then continue on as if the
vernatherm was inoperative. Just to check, early on in my tests, I pulled a
hose from the cooler to see if it was even full of oil at all. It was. Oil
was flowing to the cooler, but the heat wasn't going anywhere. Only after
throttling back..way back to around 2200rpm, would the temperature start to
come down. It would often take over 15 minutes for this to happen.
So, in clarification, yes, the Positech is much heavier in construction and
more than strong enough for all but the most severely abusive applications.
I don't think even Sean Tucker could beat up a cooler that much! ;) The
Posi is not as effective in heat transer as the Niagara/SW/Harrison, so it
may not be suitable for the majority of RV installations. We love to fly our
airplanes....hot or not!
The Niagara is a lot lighter, and I have pondered if it is TOO light. I'm
keeping close eye on it during engine compartment inspections and after 40+
hours of operation, it is in fine shape. It is mounted on the left rear
baffle, a doubler plate of .032" is riveted to the baffle, and the rear end
of the cooler is supported with a bent piece of .063 angle, bolted to top
and bottom on the outboard flange, and bolted at the bottom of the baffle.
A VERY sturdy installation it is.
Keep us posted on the results with your Posi this summer. If you find you
just need a little more cooling, but like the beefy construction of the
Posi, you can have mine (cheap) and hook it up in series. My buddy Pat
Kirkpatrick had to do this in his -6A to keep the temp under control. He
also needed the weight forward for CG reasons, so, two heavier coolers
worked better than one light one.
Best of luck to ya,
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM <SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Thursday, January 18, 2001 1:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Heater Data
>
>In a message dated 01/18/2001 12:45:54 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
>
><< If flow rate reduction is the
> answer than I can simply partially close my air flow damper -- so far I've
> not found that to measurably increase the cabin temperature. >>
>
>If you have the heat boxes from Vans, they allow full flow all the time
>through the heat muff. I think this helps keep the exhaust pipe from
>over-heating inside the muff? When you throttle back on the cabin heat,
you
>are dumping the unwanted heated air into the lower cowl area. Net flow
>through the muff is not appreciably slowed or changed, IMO.
>
>Bill Boyd
>reinstalling engine after overhaul and stuffing SS scrubbies in the muff
>while I'm at it.
>
>
Quite the contrary. I have the heat box from Van's with the hot/cold
selector on the engine side and flow restrictor on the cabin side. It is
part number LV-2 Air Mixer. The design is faulty. There is a hole in the
hot/cold selector that dumps hot air when cold air is selected -- fine.
Except that if you select hot air and close off the cabin side completely,
there is no hot air dump which I believe is contrary to accepted practice.
I can and do restrict the hot air flow on the cabin side and it has little
effect on inside cabin temperature.
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Which poprivet do I use |
----- Original Message -----
From: "earl fortner" <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 4:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: Which poprivet do I use
>
> My RV-4 plans show either a AK 44 BS or AACQ-4-4 for riveting the
> canopy to the bow. Don't recall ever seeing these pop rivets in the kit.
> I have LP4-3, CS4-4, MD 42 BS and MK 319 BS pop rivets. Does anyone
> know if I can use what I have or not?
> Thanks, Earl RV4 fussing with the canopy
>
> The rivet that you are looking for is a countersunk pop rivet with
an aluminun center pin.Terry B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
Hello Dennis,
In regard to air flow through heat exchangers, this is just a guess:
I suspect that the air flowing through and along the inside of the heat muff
"without" the various springs, coils, welded tabs, etc.is traveling with
much less turbulence than the exchangers "with" such additions.
I think the added turbulence would bring much more air in through the
exhaust pipe boundary layer and in contact with the exhaust pipe surface
thereby heating more air. The low percentage of blockage might just be the
second benefit in order of importance.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis Persyk <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Heater Data
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ross <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 11:05 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Heater Data
>
>
> >
> >Dennis,
> >
> >Why did you decide to put them in series rather than have two complete
> >systems?
> >Where are you drawing your air from?
> >Did you restrict the flow?
> >Did you add springs around the exhaust?
> >
> >Ross
> >
> >
> > > >Two Robins Wings heat muffs in series.
> >
>
> The consensus among my builder and physicist friends was that the most
heat
> transfer would result from a series arrangement. The air comes in from a
> flange on the front sloping baffle. I pick air off the rear engine baffle
> for cabin cold air, in addition to two NACA vents. I did not go the
spring
> route because the springs constitute less than 1% of the transfer area and
> as such I don't understand how they can help. If flow rate reduction is
the
> answer than I can simply partially close my air flow damper -- so far I've
> not found that to measurably increase the cabin temperature.
>
> By the way, today in bright sun at 10 am the OAT was 25F and the IAT was
55F
> with the heater choked off completely! Sun is good!
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 30 hours
> Hampshire, IL C38
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Painting jig |
>
> Dave and I have just finished painting the fuselage & empennage, yes it
> looks great but we started the prep two weeks before Christmas.
>
> Our question is how have others supported there wings when painting. We
have
> the use of a auto paint booth, so it's not possible to install the wings.
>
> All suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
> RV-8A
> Niantic, CT & Westerly, RI airport
Chuck,
If you've finished painting the emp and fuse you have already discovered the
difference between painting vertical and horizontal surfaces. Horizontal:
much easier to get the paint to flow out without the dreaded orange peel.
Vertical: less dirt gets in the paint, but almost impossible to avoid orange
peel. At the last minute I spent some extra time jigging my wings (off the
plane) so that they were horizontal and could be flipped between coats...
time well spent. I just laid the spar stubs on my work table, then attached
a bar to the other end which hung in a sling of chain supended from my
garage door rails... worked great. You can see the whole set-up at
www.rv-8.com/pgPaint.htm#The%20painting%20process
Hope it turns out nice for you!
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, finishing system & wiring
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: STS Model AV 7600 |
In a message dated 1/18/01 3:19:37 PM Pacific Standard Time,
jkitz(at)greenapple.com writes:
<< I was recently given the above transceiver by a gentleman who lost his
medical. I have no booklet or any other accessories. Can anyone tell
me who sells the unit so I can get some info on setting frequencies,
etc. >>
If it is the STS handheld, I used to have one when I flew ultralights in the
'80s. I'm sure that if I could play with it for a while it would all come
back to me. STS to my knowledge is no longer in business, but you could try
one of those places that deals in avionics manuals such as ESSCO listed in
the RV Builders' Yeller Pages.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Jim,
I suspect you are right. I only wish there was some good data on cabin
temps before and after springs. I don't trust the "it made a big
difference" kind of evaluation.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: jim jewell <jjewell(at)okanagan.net>
Date: Thursday, January 18, 2001 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Heater Data
>
>Hello Dennis,
>In regard to air flow through heat exchangers, this is just a guess:
>I suspect that the air flowing through and along the inside of the heat
muff
>"without" the various springs, coils, welded tabs, etc.is traveling with
>much less turbulence than the exchangers "with" such additions.
>I think the added turbulence would bring much more air in through the
>exhaust pipe boundary layer and in contact with the exhaust pipe surface
>thereby heating more air. The low percentage of blockage might just be the
>second benefit in order of importance.
>
>Jim in Kelowna
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Dennis Persyk <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
>To:
>Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 9:12 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Heater Data
>
>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Ross <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Date: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 11:05 PM
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Heater Data
>>
>>
>> >
>> >Dennis,
>> >
>> >Why did you decide to put them in series rather than have two complete
>> >systems?
>> >Where are you drawing your air from?
>> >Did you restrict the flow?
>> >Did you add springs around the exhaust?
>> >
>> >Ross
>> >
>> >
>> > > >Two Robins Wings heat muffs in series.
>> >
>>
>> The consensus among my builder and physicist friends was that the most
>heat
>> transfer would result from a series arrangement. The air comes in from a
>> flange on the front sloping baffle. I pick air off the rear engine baffle
>> for cabin cold air, in addition to two NACA vents. I did not go the
>spring
>> route because the springs constitute less than 1% of the transfer area
and
>> as such I don't understand how they can help. If flow rate reduction is
>the
>> answer than I can simply partially close my air flow damper -- so far
I've
>> not found that to measurably increase the cabin temperature.
>>
>> By the way, today in bright sun at 10 am the OAT was 25F and the IAT was
>55F
>> with the heater choked off completely! Sun is good!
>>
>> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 30 hours
>> Hampshire, IL C38
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WHigg1170(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Pop riveting platenuts for tanks |
Hello IM having a hard time riveting the lower row of platenuts on the spar
for the tank. I tried all the suggestions in the archives but no luck. I have
some MK319BS poprivets 7/64th shank flush head are these rivets all right to
use in this type of application. If not what would be. Thanks
Bill
Pembroke Ma
RV 6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: STS Model AV 7600 |
I replied directly to the poster, but for the archives,
STS rights were purchased by Tropic Aero in Florida @ tropicaero.com
They have accessories and offer parts and service. Their website is
worth a look....
Dave
RV6a, wings
Seattle
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 4:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: STS Model AV 7600
>
> In a message dated 1/18/01 3:19:37 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> jkitz(at)greenapple.com writes:
>
> << I was recently given the above transceiver by a gentleman who lost his
> medical. I have no booklet or any other accessories. Can anyone tell
> me who sells the unit so I can get some info on setting frequencies,
> etc. >>
>
> If it is the STS handheld, I used to have one when I flew ultralights in
the
> '80s. I'm sure that if I could play with it for a while it would all come
> back to me. STS to my knowledge is no longer in business, but you could
try
> one of those places that deals in avionics manuals such as ESSCO listed in
> the RV Builders' Yeller Pages.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pop riveting platenuts for tanks |
I had the same issue on my -4. As the plate nuts only need to be held in
place for screw insertion and removal (which should be a very rare instance
anyway) I also used the MK319BKS rivets to hold the nut plates in place. I
don't see how this could be an issue.
-Mike Kraus
RV-4 skinning second wing!!
In a message dated 1/18/01 9:47:17 PM Eastern Standard Time,
WHigg1170(at)AOL.COM writes:
> Hello IM having a hard time riveting the lower row of platenuts on the spar
> for the tank. I tried all the suggestions in the archives but no luck. I
> have
> some MK319BS poprivets 7/64th shank flush head are these rivets all right
> to
> use in this type of application. If not what would be. Thanks
> Bill
> Pembroke Ma
> RV 6
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Yes, I got the positech from Van's because the catalog said it was for
IO-360 and was less expensive than the Stewart-Warner. I would strongly
recommend starting right out with a Stewart Warner. Don't waste your money
on a Positech. If it is for an IO-360 then, yes, you could get one from an
Aztec. But, bottom, line, is use either the Model 8432R or Model 10599R.
The only difference is that the 10599R is a single pass oil cooler (the oil
goes past the cooling fins once) and the 8432R is a two pass cooler.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>
>
>Newbie question: How did you originally decide on the Positech cooler? Is
>this the unit that Vans sells/recommends? If so, would you recommend
>starting with the Aztec oil cooler when building?
>
>Dave Berryhill
>No RV (yet!)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Question |
Hal,
My CHT are running right around 380 to 400 and EGT is running at around 1475
once leaned. Klaus at LSE has said on more than one occassion that the
electronic ignition will burn 1 to 1.5 gph less than magnetos. By what I
can tell that is just what is happening.
Mike Robertson
>From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Electronic Ignition Question
>Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 06:56:26 -0800
>
>
>Mike, I think you either made a mistake or you are on your way to great
>wealth!
>
>Let me see if I have this right:
>
> Power is 65% of 200hp which is 130 hp
> Fuel burn is 7.7 gph which is 46 pounds per hour
> BSFC (Brake (?) specific fuel consumption) is 46/130 or 0.354
> WOW!
>
>This BSFC is, as I recall, down near where the best economy cars try to be.
>Lycoming is claiming something like 0.47 and some say 0.55 is more like it.
>One of the claims of the auto engine experimenters (Chev V6 anyway) is for
>0.40. Below 0.40 is very, very hard to do.
>
>**IF** there is a measurement error then either the fuel burn is greater or
>the horsepower produced is less. There isn't anything else being burned
>is
>there? Like nitrous? Hopefully not valves! What do your CHTs run?
>
>Measuring the horsepower is the most difficult. It is possible to
>determine
>where 65% is by going to altitude where air pressure is shown on charts.
>The altitude is density altitude, right? Corrected? But this is then 65%
>of what? Just to quote that engine is a 200hp one might not be that
>dependable due to manufacturing variation and installation differences like
>timing, ram air, intake & exhaust restrictions etc.
>
>Airplane speed is, I think, mostly a factor of drag. One thing is clear
>and
>that is that electronic ignition is a fuel saver and as fuel prices
>escalate
>and huge stock market gains evaporate, it may be a wise investment.
>
>Hal Kempthorne
>RV6a N7HK - Certificated and ready to fly!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cockpit Insulation, was: Audio Amplifier |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Cockpit Insulation, was: Audio Amplifier
Thread-Index: AcCBq/VsTPrAqVQQQceJjuaqZfVJUAAHmE9Q
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Mike,
I used the double-sided foil insulation from Van's, two layers in
between the floor stiffeners, covered with automotive carpet. The sides
forward of the vertical rib aft of the rudder pedals is insulated, as is
the firewall. The cockpit sides aft to the baggage bulkhead are covered
with carpet. I've taken my headsets off before and lifted my feet off
the floor to see if there's any sound difference, and I couldn't tell.
My guess is that the insulation added 6-10 pounds. Not light, but I
figure I can make up for it by cutting back on those doughnuts I eat
every day on the way to work.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Painting jig |
In a message dated 1/18/01 4:04:21 PM Eastern Standard Time,
crowbotham(at)hotmail.com writes:
> .
>
> Our question is how have others supported there wings when painting. We
> have
>
I supported the spar on a sawhorse. Then I inserted a sturdy PVC pipe
through the lightening hole in the outboard 3-4 ribs. This was supported by
a sawhorse. Finally, I inserted a smaller piece of PVC in the lightening
holes near the rear spar, with this tube sitting on the same sawhorse as the
big pipe. The big pipe and main spar carried the weight, and the small pipe
added stability. I painted my wings "flat", flipping the wing 180 degrees
between coats. Seemed to work well.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Audio Amplifier |
N7HK (Valentine) flies!!!!
It is truly a miracle. A hundred or so years ago an eminent scientist said
that flight in a machine that was heavier than air would be impossible. I,
along with Orville and Wilbur Wright and many others prove him wrong. My
little airplane took to the air with me as the apprehensive pilot and
readily climbed to 5000 feet at Stockton Metro!
Everything perfect. No heavy wing, no leaks, no malfunctions at all! I
can't believe I did it.
I did have quite a bit of noise in the mike as I communicated with the
tower. One of you wise old birds suggested that it is due to wind from my
back which there was due to my not too good fitting of the canopy at the
rear skins. Amazing how much air can come in thru a half inch gap.
I flew patterns around the airport at between 3500 and 5000 ft so that I
could easily dead stick it in to the 8000 plus foot main runway.
On landing, the heavy twin that landed ahead of me decided to use up the
whole runway as a taxiway! As a result, I had to go around. No problem
tho. I'll bet busy airports like San Jose hate him.
Flying Valentine is so sweet. Makes the Deb seem like rowing a dead cow in
a swamp. From a 45* bank left to 45* bank right takes about a half second!
Whhoooooeeeee! Hard to wait to do aerobatics!
hal
RV6a - ***FLYING*** (after 3 years and 11 months!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Quadrants |
Hi Ristic:
Have a side mounted quadrant in my 6, give me your address and I will mail
you a picture.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay B.C. Finishing slider on the 6A.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ristic Vlastimir <rileyu(at)rad.net.id>
Date: Thursday, January 18, 2001 9:15 AM
Subject: RV-List: Throttle Quadrants
>
>Hi everyone,
>
>Does somebody has experience with side throttle quadrant installation on
>RV-6 ?
>
>Thanks,
>RILE
>Indonesia
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
Hi Dennis,
It seems to me to be a bit of a crap shoot when it comes to stuffing the
medium of choice into the heat muff that's on hand.
I do think that with a dead reckoning kind of approach and about 3 to 5
tries per choice of "stuffing" and density thereof one could nail down the
information desired.
I do not yet have a completed A/C so the ball lands in your court.(;-)!
It might be a bit tedious to do the trial and error and record keeping but
at the end of it you should be in the possession of possibly the most
accurate information you can get, your own.
Oh! by the way, do keep us posted as to the results.(:-)!
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis Persyk <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 5:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Heater Data
>
> Jim,
> I suspect you are right. I only wish there was some good data on cabin
> temps before and after springs. I don't trust the "it made a big
> difference" kind of evaluation.
> Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Question |
In a message dated 1/18/01 7:49:59 PM Pacific Standard Time,
mrobert569(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< I only have the snubber at the sensor. At the engine end I just installed
a
standard hydraulic fitting. Are you saying you don't have any snubbers in
yours? >>
That is correct. Remove it and see if you don't get a different reading on
your next flight. If so, leave it out.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Nellis <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Quadrants |
Eustace, why don't you post the picture on the RV-6 eGroup at this location
or, if you like, send to me and I'll post it there so everyone can have a
look.
http://www.egroups.com/group/RV-6and6A
Mike Nellis
** A good builder is not someone who doesn't make mistakes......they just
cover them up better **
Eustace Bowhay wrote:
> Hi Ristic:
>
> Have a side mounted quadrant in my 6, give me your address and I will mail
> you a picture.
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay B.C. Finishing slider on the 6A.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Alaska trip planning? (Non Building, DNA) |
I know that several parties on the list are thinking of flying to Alaska this
summer. I am planning on visiting friends in Lake Clark in June. Fred
Stucklin said he is thinking of an early summer trip. Gary Sobek mentioned at
last Oshkosh that several SoCal RV'ers were planning an Alaska trip this
summer.
OK so I haven't checked the archives, but are there folks out there that have
done this in the past and have recommendations of do and don'ts, places to
fuel, shower, and get good grub. I plan to visit several folks on the way,
but may tent at the airport or nearby on some occasions. Does anyone have a
trip dialogue on there Web site?
Bernie Kerr, 6A , SE FLA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rpflanze(at)iquest.net |
| Subject: | Throttle Quadrants |
>When I was building, I was determined to fly with my right >hand on the stick
and left hand on the throttle
I'd like to comment on this topic because I suspect there are newer list members
(last two years or so) that might have a concern about flying with their left
hand and using their right hand for the throttle.
It is definitely possible to engineer a change like Laird (and others) have
described if you are up to the task and if you are bound and determined to make
it. When I was building, I was very apprehensive about flying with my left
hand. Understand that I was a low-time, VFR, corn-field hopping pilot that
hadn't flown in 10 years. Being right handed, I was concerned about my dexterity
and coordination of using my left hand. I gave a serious look at rigging up
a left hand throttle quadrant.
On the advice of an old sage member of the List that is now long gone, I got
on with the business of building the airplane and decided that "If nearly everyone
else can learn to fly with their left hand, then so can I." He was right.
I now have been flying for about 7 months and I have over 110 hours on my RV-6.
Flying left handed is now second nature and a non-issue. It actually feels
more comfortable than flying right handed. Even my tailwheel endorsement and
refresher training was done in a Citabria with right hand stick and left hand
throttle and I made the transition to the RV-6 easily.
My point is that if you want a left hand throttle quadrant, go for it. It surely
can be done because more than a few have managed to do it nicely. But you shouldn't
be concerned a great deal about learning to fly left handed. In retrospect,
I spent way too much time worrying about it. It's not a big deal, really.
For me, I'm glad I didn't spend the extra time re-engineering the throttle stuff
so that I could spend months and months on little details that no one notices.
:>)
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (110 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garrett Bray" <braygarrett(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Painting jig |
Chuck,
I used a cheap engine stand to support the spar end of the wing and a piece
of plywood bolted to the outboard rib with a pipe flange and piece of pipe
screwed in to support the outboard end. Made a stand out of 2X4's with a
appropriate sized hole for the pipe to fit in, and a bracket to bolt the
spar end to the engine stand. Figured positions of brackets so that when the
engine stand is rotated the wing more or less rotated on its centerline.
Worked fine. I liked the feature of the engine stand that allows you to
rotate a few degrees and install a pin to hold in any position. Also left
the plywood plate and pipe flange and pipe stub on the outboard end and was
able to store the finished wings on sawhorses until installed at the hanger.
Good luck.
Gary Bray
Carmel, Maine
RV-6 102 hrs of flying fun so far
>>
>
>Dave and I have just finished painting the fuselage & empennage, yes it
>looks great but we started the prep two weeks before Christmas.
>
>Our question is how have others supported there wings when painting. We
>have
>the use of a auto paint booth, so it's not possible to install the wings.
>
>All suggestions would be appreciated.
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
>RV-8A
>Niantic, CT & Westerly, RI airport
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery Source |
--- Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM wrote:
I called batteries.com 888 288 6500 they said the
ps12180 was an 18 amp size 7.13"Lx2.99"Wx6.57H. Is
this enough power to turn a 180hp any longivity to
this etc.
Joe RV6A 130hrs
> Hi all, I searched the archives and did not find
> much info on battery
> sources. My research for a good battery concluded
> that I want a 17 AH RG
> battery as reccomended by our good buddy lectric
> Bob. Two of the ones he
> reccomends are the Powersonic PS-12180 and its
> couzin the Panasonic
> LCRD1271P. I just bought mine at Batteries.com.
> they have the Powersonic
> PS12180 for $61.64 and will ship USPS for $.99.
>
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
quick note about the Garmin 295
we had our monthly EAA meeting last night, Todd from Gulf Coast Avionics was
the speaker and brought in free samples of the Garmin 430's. ( just kidding
). but he dimistrated a bunch of the new gps systems , 1 being the 295 in
which i have great interest. i wanted that unit because of the autopilot
output capibilites. when i mentioned this to Todd, he said yes it has that
built in, but they will not hook it up or tell you how to hook it up. Buzz
Masingale, Head of FAA was sitting in the crowd and said this would be
illegal installation. can i safley install this in my experimental and not
sweat the FAA guys at the ramp?
scott
tampa
rv6a millions of details
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Which poprivet do I use |
I think the pop rivets are AACQ and they are Aluminum.
You can tell them from the regular steel rivets by their weight. We also had
a time finding them, but they were in the kit.
As a side note we are using a bare minimum of rivets on out canopy, by using
Sem Weld (same as Pro Seal) to attach the canopy (like Pitt's do) to the
canopy fram.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (fuselage painted)
Niantic, CT
>From: "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Which poprivet do I use
>Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 15:34:02 -0500
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "earl fortner" <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
>To:
>Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 4:44 PM
>Subject: RV-List: Which poprivet do I use
>
>
> >
> > My RV-4 plans show either a AK 44 BS or AACQ-4-4 for riveting the
> > canopy to the bow. Don't recall ever seeing these pop rivets in the kit.
> > I have LP4-3, CS4-4, MD 42 BS and MK 319 BS pop rivets. Does anyone
> > know if I can use what I have or not?
> > Thanks, Earl RV4 fussing with the canopy
>
> >
> > The rivet that you are looking for is a countersunk pop rivet with
>an aluminun center pin.Terry B
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
My two cents . . . specific to a 180 hp 8 or 8A. Someone flying (can't
remember who) suggested the 8's were running a bit hot when using what Van's
shows as a recommendation. I talked to a guy at Niagara and was steered
toward the model 20004A. I'm a long ways from being airborne, but this is a
slightly bigger unit, and it looks like it is going to fit quite nicely
behind cyl #4 and provide adequate cooling. I got a new one from "Tripco" .
. . 716-298-1058. Again, I can't suggest whether I've made the correct
decision, just thought I'd share this due to the present threads on oil
coolers.
Rick Jory, Highlands Ranch, CO
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 10:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Oil Coolers
>
>
> >From: Lenleg(at)AOL.COM
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: Re: Oil Coolers
> >Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 22:58:39 EST
> >
> >
> >What do you guys think of the Niagara oil coolers?
> >
> >Len Leggette, RV-8A
> >North Carolina (N901LL res)
> >Engine Hung - On to Accessories!
> >
> Len,
>
> I installed a Niagara on the baffle when I removed the Positech from the
> firewall. (Yes, this was NOT a scientific approach to problem solving, but
> it solved the problem with the least amount of hassle.) The Niagara
coolers
> are very nice units and much lighter in weight vs. the Positech. My
Positech
> and Niagara coolers are physically the same size (in my case), but the
> Niagara allows a LOT more air to pass between the oil cells. You hold the
> Niagara up to the light, and you can see right through the cooling fins.
Do
> the same with the Positech, and it's a wonder that ANY airflow makes it
> through the thing at all.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> O-360A4J/180hp/Sensenich 83"
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alaska trip planning? (Non Building, DNA) |
--- Rv660wm(at)AOL.COM wrote:
> I know that several parties on the list are thinking of flying to
> Alaska this
> summer. I am planning on visiting friends in Lake Clark in June. Fred
>
> Stucklin said he is thinking of an early summer trip. Gary Sobek
> mentioned at
> last Oshkosh that several SoCal RV'ers were planning an Alaska trip
> this
> summer.
>
> OK so I haven't checked the archives, but are there folks out there
> that have
> done this in the past and have recommendations of do and don'ts,
> places to
> fuel, shower, and get good grub. I plan to visit several folks on the
> way,
> but may tent at the airport or nearby on some occasions. Does anyone
> have a
> trip dialogue on there Web site?
>
> Bernie Kerr, 6A ,
Bernie:
We got 5 airplanes departing Monday after Arlington from Washington.
Having our first planning meeting Saturday 20 January 2000 over Dinner.
Jack Pickering flew his RV-6A there in 1998 and will have his photo
album to show us. Have also talked to Dave and Diane Anders about
their RV trip to Alaska.
Here is a link of a group that went to Alaska. This came from Will
Cretsinger found it and forwared to us.
http://www.sportflight.com/alaska/
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
745+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "skybolt-aviator" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Question |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2001 1:29 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electronic Ignition Question
>
> That is correct. Remove it and see if you don't get a different reading
on
> your next flight. If so, leave it out.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
> With no snubber you will get a pulsation with each cyl.
firing.Ollie&Lorene Washburn
RV6-A,N795LW,@FD77.
O-360,180HP,C/S,300+hrs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Valentine Flies |
In a message dated 1/18/01 8:39:41 PM Pacific Standard Time,
kempthornes(at)home.com writes:
<< N7HK (Valentine) flies!!!!
It is truly a miracle. A hundred or so years ago an eminent scientist said
that flight in a machine that was heavier than air would be impossible. I,
along with Orville and Wilbur Wright and many others prove him wrong. >>
Congratulations Hal !!! Now the air from Livermore to Stockton is really
thick with around 20 flying RVs.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Quadrants |
Having the throttle on the left wall should be a trivial modification but it
should be considered only after the airplane is built lest it slow you down.
All mods take seem to take lotsa extra time. I'd wait till end, just before
riveting on front skin and installing plexiglass.
Disadvantages: tiny extra weight and no throttle for copilot. An
instructor might be unwilling to fly with you.?
Advantages: I suspect a trifle better control
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "<Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com> |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with ESMTP id
for" ;
Fri,
19 Jan 2001 11:26:58.-0500(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Wing Painting jig |
01/19/2001 11:27:43 AM
We have a nice set of loaner stands that the local builders use. It allows
you to rotisserie your wings easily. They are made from an upright 4X4
built onto a firm stand of 2x4's. A 1 1/4" steel galvanized pipe goes
through the 4x4 to hold the wing. The outboard wing is held by sandwiching
the outer rib between an inside/outside bolted piece of wood. The pipe
threads into a plate that you can get in the plumbing dept at home depot.
The other end of the pipe has an elbow on the outside that holds a 2' piece
of pipe, this gives you a lever to turn the wing. The spar end is held by
bolting a short piece of 4x4 across the spar and bolting it using the spar
bolt holes. Another plumbing receptacle is used to thread the pipe into.
The beauty of this is you can shoot the wings vertical so you don't drag a
hose across, drip sweat, drop a hair ect, ect. Then once you shoot the
surface you can turn the wings horizontal to let the paint flow flat. Later
if you are a true masochist and want to color sand (wet sand) you can turn
the wings vertical for sanding so all the little nasties you have removed
will wash free of the wings and not get under your paper and gouge your
paint job.
I'm just aching to get painting, I'm trying to convince myself that I can
mount and fix the wing positions without messing up my paint job. My
buddies say don't so I guess I'll hold off.
Hope this helps
Eric Henson
RV-6 Canopy Frame
"Garrett Bray" (at)matronics.com on 01/19/2001
08:50:12 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing Painting jig
Chuck,
I used a cheap engine stand to support the spar end of the wing and a piece
of plywood bolted to the outboard rib with a pipe flange and piece of pipe
screwed in to support the outboard end. Made a stand out of 2X4's with a
appropriate sized hole for the pipe to fit in, and a bracket to bolt the
spar end to the engine stand. Figured positions of brackets so that when
the
engine stand is rotated the wing more or less rotated on its centerline.
Worked fine. I liked the feature of the engine stand that allows you to
rotate a few degrees and install a pin to hold in any position. Also left
the plywood plate and pipe flange and pipe stub on the outboard end and was
able to store the finished wings on sawhorses until installed at the
hanger.
Good luck.
Gary Bray
Carmel, Maine
RV-6 102 hrs of flying fun so far
>>
>
>Dave and I have just finished painting the fuselage & empennage, yes it
>looks great but we started the prep two weeks before Christmas.
>
>Our question is how have others supported there wings when painting. We
>have
>the use of a auto paint booth, so it's not possible to install the wings.
>
>All suggestions would be appreciated.
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
>RV-8A
>Niantic, CT & Westerly, RI airport
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Throttle Quadrants |
Having the throttle on the left wall should be a trivial modification but it
should be considered only after the airplane is built lest it slow you down.
All mods take seem to take lotsa extra time. I'd wait till end, just before
riveting on front skin and installing plexiglass.
Disadvantages: tiny extra weight and no throttle for copilot. An
instructor might be unwilling to fly with you.?
Advantages: I suspect a trifle better control
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Best Sun-n-Fun days |
> I starting to plan my first trip out to Sun-n-Fun. What are the best days
to attend? I'd probably hang out for a > couple of days.
>
> Might just have to go down to Bahamas to lay in the sun for a couple of
days as well. Just because I'm in the > neighborhood, you know.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
Hey Laird, I could give you a hand paying for
half............Norman..........
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Audio Amplifier |
In a message dated 1/18/01 8:39:41 PM Pacific Standard Time,
kempthornes(at)home.com writes:
<< kempthornes(at)home.com >>
Congratulations Hal.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying to the Bahamas |
Rick,
I fly on occasion over to Freeport in the Bahamas from Vero Beach. I also
have the small numbers, but put on 12" vinyl numbers for the trip. Upon
return to the U.S. I went through customs at Ft. Pierce and asked the guys
in customs if they were still enforcing the 12" numbers. The response was
"you bet, we bust guys all the time," so...
No problems in the Bahamas at all, very friendly folks at the airport!
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hrs. TT
O-320, Hartzell C/S
RV-6, Fuselage
O-360, Hartzell C/S
pat_hatch(at)msn.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 10:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flying to the Bahamas
>
> Laird,
>
> There was no mention of the requirement for 12 inch N numbers. Is this
> still required? Or is this only a requirement of the US to pass across the
> border? If so, will it be customs who busts us for the small numbers?
>
> Rick Caldwell
> -6 small numbers & want to go too!
> Melbourne, FL
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
. How do you tell if you have a "stalled Prop" on static run up. I know if
you start take-off roll and as speed picks up the engine loads up and the
rpm drops then you probably had a "stalled Prop". But are there indications
sitting still?
The reason I would like to know is that my newly rebuilt engine is
turning my prop (a Performance Propellers 6x.72 prop) 2670 rpm on static
runup.
The old engine turned the same prop static at 2350 rpm.. I took out a prop
tach this AM and it and the engine tach were in agreement to within the
eyeball resolution of the engine tach (100 rpm).
If this is indeed a reflection of the HP the engine is producing then
great, but if the rpm has increased because the prop is "stalled" then I
would like to know that, if possible, before first take off. I figure
somebody on the list may be able to answer the question.
Thanks
Ed Anderson
Matthews, NC
RV-6A N494BW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: Stalled Prop?? |
2670rpm on a performance 68x72 ? what size engine?Sounds like you could
use a 68x74 at least.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Lower Intersection Wheel Pants Fairings |
Listens,
What is the best way to securely mate the lower intersection fairings to the
wheel pants to ensure I don't loose the fairing in flight?
I would like to secure them to the lower wheel pants with fiberglass &
splitting them down the middle, so that the front half comes off with the
forward section of the pant, & the rear with the rear.
Mark Steffensen
Dallas, TX
8A 90 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Tailwheel bearings |
Listers,
After a most glorious flight today, and while pushing the plane into the
hangar, I noted the tailwheel seemed rather stiff and "gritty" sounding.
So, I propped the tail up onto a sawhorse and pulled the wheel. A few taps
on a long piece of 1/4" bolt and the bearings popped out. Yuck! These
things are JUNK! That was my first impression. Secondly, the grease I had
been religiously pumping into the wheel hub grease zert had nowhere to go
but all over the axle bolt. You see, the bearings are sealed...no place for
the grease to go and if you manage to pump enough grease into the inside of
the wheel hub, you'll likely pop the bearings right out of the hub. Of
course, how tight you have the axle bolt nut will have a lot to do with
this. Pretty cheesy design. Oh, it's the standard tailwheel from the kit.
I took the bearings to a local bearing supply store. I've done business
with this shop a few times over the years, and they always had bearings for
the various engines I've worked on from my RC airplanes. The guy looked at
these stamped wonders, that have no part number of any kind on them, and
said, "never seen anything like this and don't have a replacement for it.
You might want to try a caster store here in town." CASTERS?? Fabulous.
So, unless your tailwheels are different than mine, don't expect any amount
of grease to benefit the bearings at all. Once they're shot, they're shot.
I'll just have to buy new bearings from Van's if I want to keep this
tailwheel..and I do since it has plenty of rubber left on it. I'm going to
look at other alternatives, like Randy Lervold's go-ped wheel idea. There's
gotta be a better way without going for a certified wheel assembly with
resultant certified price tag.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: Elect. Ignition question |
I have an EI on my RV4 with over 100 hours on it(ElectroAir).You will
average just about one gallon less fuel burn per hour.Is it worth it? It
is to me simply for the fact that the motor runs so much better .You can
definately feeel the the difference.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel bearings |
There's always the Andair tailwheel, but many have reported that the darned
thing won't hold air with any amount of abuse. The last think I want to do
is get stranded somewhere with a flat tailwheel.
Yo Brian, please keep the List posted as to what you end up doing. If you
have access to a lathe to cut down the rubber wheel, the Go-Ped wheel might
end up being the ticket... help us all out and try it!
Randy Lervold
> After a most glorious flight today, and while pushing the plane into the
> hangar, I noted the tailwheel seemed rather stiff and "gritty" sounding.
> So, I propped the tail up onto a sawhorse and pulled the wheel. A few taps
> on a long piece of 1/4" bolt and the bearings popped out. Yuck! These
> things are JUNK! That was my first impression. Secondly, the grease I
had
> been religiously pumping into the wheel hub grease zert had nowhere to go
> but all over the axle bolt. You see, the bearings are sealed...no place
for
> the grease to go and if you manage to pump enough grease into the inside
of
> the wheel hub, you'll likely pop the bearings right out of the hub. Of
> course, how tight you have the axle bolt nut will have a lot to do with
> this. Pretty cheesy design. Oh, it's the standard tailwheel from the kit.
>
> I took the bearings to a local bearing supply store. I've done business
> with this shop a few times over the years, and they always had bearings
for
> the various engines I've worked on from my RC airplanes. The guy looked
at
> these stamped wonders, that have no part number of any kind on them, and
> said, "never seen anything like this and don't have a replacement for it.
> You might want to try a caster store here in town." CASTERS?? Fabulous.
>
> So, unless your tailwheels are different than mine, don't expect any
amount
> of grease to benefit the bearings at all. Once they're shot, they're
shot.
> I'll just have to buy new bearings from Van's if I want to keep this
> tailwheel..and I do since it has plenty of rubber left on it. I'm going
to
> look at other alternatives, like Randy Lervold's go-ped wheel idea.
There's
> gotta be a better way without going for a certified wheel assembly with
> resultant certified price tag.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Tailwheel bearings |
I don't see them on their web page (http://www.andair.co.uk/), but didn't
Andair sell pneumatic tail wheels?
Larry Bowen
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Denk
> Sent: Friday, January 19, 2001 11:59 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Tailwheel bearings
>
>
> Listers,
>
> After a most glorious flight today, and while pushing the plane into the
> hangar, I noted the tailwheel seemed rather stiff and "gritty" sounding.
> So, I propped the tail up onto a sawhorse and pulled the wheel. A
> few taps
> on a long piece of 1/4" bolt and the bearings popped out. Yuck! These
> things are JUNK! That was my first impression. Secondly, the
> grease I had
> been religiously pumping into the wheel hub grease zert had nowhere to go
> but all over the axle bolt. You see, the bearings are sealed...no
> place for
> the grease to go and if you manage to pump enough grease into the
> inside of
> the wheel hub, you'll likely pop the bearings right out of the hub. Of
> course, how tight you have the axle bolt nut will have a lot to do with
> this. Pretty cheesy design. Oh, it's the standard tailwheel from the kit.
>
> I took the bearings to a local bearing supply store. I've done business
> with this shop a few times over the years, and they always had
> bearings for
> the various engines I've worked on from my RC airplanes. The guy
> looked at
> these stamped wonders, that have no part number of any kind on them, and
> said, "never seen anything like this and don't have a replacement for it.
> You might want to try a caster store here in town." CASTERS?? Fabulous.
>
> So, unless your tailwheels are different than mine, don't expect
> any amount
> of grease to benefit the bearings at all. Once they're shot,
> they're shot.
> I'll just have to buy new bearings from Van's if I want to keep this
> tailwheel..and I do since it has plenty of rubber left on it.
> I'm going to
> look at other alternatives, like Randy Lervold's go-ped wheel
> idea. There's
> gotta be a better way without going for a certified wheel assembly with
> resultant certified price tag.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stalled Prop?? |
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stalled Prop??
>
> 2670rpm on a performance 68x72 ? what size engine?Sounds like you could
> use a 68x74 at least.
>
Engine is a Mazda rotary engine. Prop was the one I had on the original
engine before I upgrade to new engine. I agree, it looks as if the
additional power is going to call for more pitch. Or my current cruise prop
turns into a climb prop.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Painting jig |
I recently painted the wings on a simple rotisserie. On the end of the spar
was clamped an arbor that had a pulley which overhung the spar. A cable hung
from the ceiling held the pulley. The pulley was free to rotate. On the tip
end, I made an attachment that held the wing by 2 of the large rib holes, the
closest to the leading edge, and the middle one on the rear rib. On the
inside of the wing rib was a wood disk a bit larger than the rib hole, but
smaller than the adjacent hole. The thickness of the rib and strengthening
contours was approximated by a 1/8 inch disk that just fit inside the hole,
and on the outside, another of the larger wooden disks. Bolts through the
laminated disks went into a hardwood 1x2 connecting the 2 disks. Directly
opposed to the pulley on the other end, a 3/8 inch hole was drilled and a
long 3/8 inch bolt inserted and fixed such that the threaded end was away
from the wing. The bolt slipped through a cheap bearing (garage door pulley)
which was screwed to a hardwood board with holed drilled in a circle at 45
degree intervals. The 1x2 had a hole drilled to line up with circle of
holes. A rod was slipped through one of the holes and then through the the
1x2 to hold the wing in place. The plate with the holes was supported from
the floor with a 2x4 pine tripod bolted to the floor.
If I needed to sand or buff the wing, I could remove the pulley from the
cable and rest it on a sawhorse, allowing for aggressive movements without
the wing swinging all over the place. It worked quite well, and no, I don't
have any pictures of it.
Brian Eckstein
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lower Intersection Wheel Pants Fairings |
>
> What is the best way to securely mate the lower intersection fairings to
the
> wheel pants to ensure I don't loose the fairing in flight?
I have the team rocket intersection fairings. They are split on the aft
crease that is the extension of the trailing edge of the gear leg fairing.
They then fiberglass a tab on the inside of the inner half so that two
platenuts and #8 screws hold the two halves together. Then nutplate the
fairing onto the wheel pants in 4-5 places.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael D Hilger <rvsixer(at)juno.com> |
I have a pair of Rick Robbins' heat muffs each plumbed to an RV-4
heat valve with one control for each seat. Rick told me not to stuff
anything in the muffs, but instead to cut down the airflow through them
by partially covering the inlet on the engine baffle. Actually, I did
neither and I get plenty of heat. I have been flying in temps near 0
degrees F and the heat is adequate.
Mike Hilger
RV-6 N207AM (flying)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel bearings |
From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com
>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel bearings
>>
>I'll start looking around town, even at that caster supply store and see if
>
>Brian "still love my taildragger" Denk
Brian: You might give Cleaveland Aircraft Tools a call. They used to sell
a conversion package for the tailwheel that replaced the commercial bearings
(roughly equivalent to those on your swivel chair) with precision sealed
bearings. As I recall, there were some other bits and pieces that were
included in the package. Their recent catalog doesn't mention this kit but
they should be able to steer you in the right direction. I've been using
these for several years and they have required no attention other than an
occasional inspection. I'm down for an annual right now so if you need, I
could open it up and get some part numbers for you if thay cannot help.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
I think that there is a lot of blaming of the oil cooler for less than
perfect oil cooler
installations. It is important to buy a good one, and good ones are made by
Stewart Warner, Positech, Niagra and Harrison (there may be others too). It
is more important to install it properly. In order for the oil cooler to do
it's job, air must pass through it. In order for air to pass through it,
there must be a path in and out. If one installs a huge oil cooler with
only
a portion of it in line with incoming air, the portion of the cooler that is
not in the stream of air is wasted. There is another issue at play here
too.
Air doesn't like to change direction. Therefore, mount the oil cooler so
that air hits it directly, not at some angle. How well do you think your
car
radiator would work if it was laying horizontal. Yet, I see so many oil
cooler installations that are slanted. Align it such that the most possible
surface area of the cooler feels the wind.
Also, make sure that there is enough area in the bottom of the cowl for air
discharge. Some people have installed venturi-like systems that help suck
the air out of the cowl.
I haven't yet flown my RV6A, so all of this is theoretical conjecture. You
need to do the things that you think are right. I have installed the
Positech cooler that Van's recommends for the RV8 IO-360 installation and I
know that I have done the best I can at exposing the cooler to the incoming
wind. I do not expect an oil cooling problem, but we will see.
Brian Eckstein
6A IO-360
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Manifold Pressure Snubber removal |
In a message dated 1/19/01 6:43:49 AM Pacific Standard Time,
skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com writes:
<< That is correct. Remove it and see if you don't get a different reading
on
> your next flight. If so, leave it out.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
> With no snubber you will get a pulsation with each cyl.
firing. >>
Actually you will get a peak pulsation for every other revolution at the one
cylinder port you are sensing but it is damped somewhat already by the intake
manifold volume. Add to this the natural damping over the length/volume of
the MP line and the result is that you will see very little actual change at
the sensor over the pulsing period. Remember that air acts as a compressible
fluid.
The fuel pump produces a pulsation (0 psi to 5 psi) with every engine
rotation so why doesn't the fuel pressure sensor have a snubber?
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Manifold Pressure Snubber removal |
It should have one at the closest point to the outlet port where you connect your
pressure sensor line. A restricture fittings (snubber) main function is not to
smooth instrument readings but to reduce the flow of flammable fluids into the
engine/passenger compartment if a line breaks. Therefore you should have a
restricture fitting on the oil pressure line, fuel pressure line, and fuel flow
line. Because the MP line doesn't carry a flammable fluid a snubber is optional.
BTW, some sensors have snubber fittings built in.
Bruce
Glasair III
Vanremog(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> In a message dated 1/19/01 6:43:49 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com writes:
>
> << That is correct. Remove it and see if you don't get a different reading
> on
> > your next flight. If so, leave it out.
> >
> > -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> > vanremog(at)aol.com
> >
> > With no snubber you will get a pulsation with each cyl.
> firing. >>
>
> Actually you will get a peak pulsation for every other revolution at the one
> cylinder port you are sensing but it is damped somewhat already by the intake
> manifold volume. Add to this the natural damping over the length/volume of
> the MP line and the result is that you will see very little actual change at
> the sensor over the pulsing period. Remember that air acts as a compressible
> fluid.
>
> The fuel pump produces a pulsation (0 psi to 5 psi) with every engine
> rotation so why doesn't the fuel pressure sensor have a snubber?
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: auto starters on O-320 |
In a message dated 1/11/01 7:39:10 PM Pacific Standard Time,
aj_larkin(at)yahoo.com writes:
<< Has anyone had any luck using an auto (Nissan, Toyota,
etc) starter on an O-320? If so, which part number
did you use and is there a special bracket to use to
attach it? >>
I did a little research on this and got the following. Ron Denight in
Colorado used to produce these brackets but ran out of castings and doesn't
want to make more. Maybe someone out there can take up where Ron left off.
He made brackets to fit both the 122 and the 149 toothed ring gears that
would accept a Nippondenso starter for the Toyota 22R engine.
My buddy Greg Triplett has one on his O-320 and swears by it.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Ervin <bjervin(at)home.com> |
Hi Ya'll
I'm going to spend a few days in Dallas from Jan 28th to Feb 2nd. Any
EAA/RV meetings or other suggestions from those around the Dallas-Fort
Worth area.
Please Respond off list, I'll be out of town for the next 2 weeks so I'm
turning the list off so Doug's filters don't banish me to e-mail
purgatory!! ;-)
Bill
RV-6 Fuse
Spokane Wa.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel bearings |
Listers. I was able to find sealed bearings to replace
the flanged original ones. I can't find the P/N at this
time but will locate it. I just went to Whistler Bearing
and they had a substitute wich has a 1/2 in id. Just made
a bushing to make them 3/8.
Stewart, RV4 273SB 482 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: auto starters on O-320 |
Guys I think Mark Landoll's complete unit uses some sort of automotive
starter the whole works for about $200.00 bucks includes starter and mount.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit Insulation, was: Audio Amplifier |
Mike Thompson wrote:
>
>
> --- Bob Japundza wrote:
>
> > Mike,
> >
> > I'll have to disagree with you there. I have quite a bit of
> > insulation
> > in the forward cockpit (doubled up on the floor, where most of the
> > noise
> > comes from) and carpeting on the fuselage sides and have had on more
> > than one occasion pilots comment on the noise level not being any
> > louder
> > than a 172, with normal headsets on. In fact, I have made cell-phone
> > calls (hey! look up!) and don't have to shout too loud. With all the
> > insulation I have, big motor and some goodies, my bird weighed 1076
> > with calibrated digital scales.
>
> Bob, I'm impressed. Talking with folks, seems enough insulation to
> make a difference really brings a weight penalty. Care to share what
> kind of insulation you used that is so effective? I didn't see
> anything in the archives with both "insulation" and your name, from
> previous discussions.
>
> I also didn't mean to imply that minimal insulation would suit everyone
> - when I mentioned "climate", I fully expect folks in the northern
> climes to be willing to use a few pounds of payload for a cozy cockpit.
> Here in Central Texas we are happy to just make the breeze move faster.
> :)
> If you found some light, effective sound-deadening material, I for one
> would like to know about it!
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Finishing Canopy
>
The lightest sound insulation available is to seal as many
cockpit air leaks as possible. Consider that if all leaks
are sealed, the sound must convert itself from moving air to
moving a solid & back to moving air in order to get to your
ears. Insulation just forces this to happen multiple times
on its way to your ear. Forcing that first change will do an
amazing amount of good.
Try it & I'll bet you will like the results.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit Insulation, was: Audio Amplifier |
In a message dated 1/20/01 8:29:12 AM Central Standard Time,
cengland(at)netdoor.com writes:
<< I'll have to disagree with you there. I have quite a bit of
> > insulation
> > in the forward cockpit (doubled up on the floor, where most of the
> > noise
> > comes from) and carpeting on the fuselage sides and have had on more
> > than one occasion pilots comment on the noise level not being any
> > louder
> > than a 172, with normal headsets on. In fact, I have made cell-phone
> > calls (hey! look up!) and don't have to shout too loud. With all the
> > insulation I have, big motor and some goodies, my bird weighed 1076
> > with calibrated digital scales. >>
This has been an interesting thread and I thought I would add my experience.
I recently flew in the Vans RV-9A prototype and then about one week later in
a Cessna 172. This is very scientific stuff here so I hope I don't lose
anyone. During both flights, I removed my headset and attempted
conversation. The RV-9A was quiteenogh to have a normal conversational
volume and hear ok. In the C-172 we had to yell over the noise.
The point is, I guess it varies from plane to plane and builder to builder.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: auto starters on O-320 |
Could you help me out a little here? Who is and hoe do I find Mark Landfall?
Dennis Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel bearings |
Brian wrote:
>There's
> gotta be a better way without going for a certified wheel assembly with
> resultant certified price tag.
I wonder if that is what Van said to himself some time back??
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Reiff" <Reiff(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 weight & balance |
I'm likely going to sell my RV4 kit and get an 8 instead. The final
thing I want to look at is the CG envelope of the 8. I did review the
archives and got a lot of comments but I don't see any W&B data on the
Van's web site. What I want to do is figure out how much I can load in
the rear seat & baggage compartments given my configuration (180 hp w/
CS, VFR instruments, and my 175 lbs.).
Any chance I could persuade someone who has an RV8 manual to fax me the
W&B pages?
Knowing how helpful you all are, to avoid getting multiple faxes how
about just reply off list if you can do it and I'll reply to the first
one received who can then fax it.
Thanks.
Bob Reiff
Reiff Preheat Systems
www.execpc.com/reiff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: auto starters on O-320 |
GV
AIR-TEC in orlando sells these brackets and starters, very nice setup. he
evenly exchanged my lycoming starter and bracket because the lycoming starter
would not fit in the cowel, and it hit the exhaust. with this tiny starter
and bracket, all is ok.
oh yeah, the price out right for the starter and bracket was $199.00
let me know if you need the phone numbers to air-tec.
scott reviere
tampa rv6a engine timed and almost ready to fire up
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Control Stick Slop |
Hello All,
During my first annual insp. on my -6, I noticed I had elevator control play
that was traced to the pilot's stick. The amount of play at the top of the
stick was maybe 1/32", but hearing & feeling the movement made it seem like
more. The play was in the stick/bushing/bolt that is attached in the
channel of the weldment that's bolted to the spar. Removing the stick &
reinserting the bolt, there was minute play in the hole in the channel on
the forward side. The rear hole was snug. With the bolt on the
stick/bushing, there was no play on the bolt. With the stick bolted into
the channel, I could eliminate the play by tightening the bolt. This
squeezed the channel onto the stick/bushing, which then caused the aileron
movement to have too high friction. I adjusted the bolt torque to a
compromise between aileron friction and a little elevator movement stick
play. This play is about half of what I started with.
It looks like I didn't file the edges of the stick/bushing square & this
contributed to the play. For me, I don't know how to get perfection without
buying new parts & starting over. Guess I'll stay with what I have. But
for the folks yet to get to this area, pay attention to fitting this. I
thought I just had to file the bushing to get the proper fit in the channel,
& the remaining parts of the stick could be filed back.
Rick Caldwell
-6 I only managed 185 hrs in my 1st yr.
Melbourne, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop |
The bushing should be long enough that the bolt clamps the bushing
stationary in the channel so it doesn't move. The yoke assembly must move
freely about the bushing but not slide fore and aft to any degree. So, the
additional lenght of the bushing is just a few thousandths of an inch out
each side of the yoke. Your slack is coming from a loose bolt and the out
of round hole in the channel which shouldn't cause a problem when the bolt
is tightened enough to clamp the bushing. I would order new bushings and
refit them to get rid of the slack.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Caldwell <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 20, 2001 4:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: Control Stick Slop
>
> Hello All,
>
> During my first annual insp. on my -6, I noticed I had elevator control
play
> that was traced to the pilot's stick. The amount of play at the top of
the
> stick was maybe 1/32", but hearing & feeling the movement made it seem
like
> more. The play was in the stick/bushing/bolt that is attached in the
> channel of the weldment that's bolted to the spar. Removing the stick &
> reinserting the bolt, there was minute play in the hole in the channel on
> the forward side. The rear hole was snug. With the bolt on the
> stick/bushing, there was no play on the bolt. With the stick bolted into
> the channel, I could eliminate the play by tightening the bolt. This
> squeezed the channel onto the stick/bushing, which then caused the aileron
> movement to have too high friction. I adjusted the bolt torque to a
> compromise between aileron friction and a little elevator movement stick
> play. This play is about half of what I started with.
>
> It looks like I didn't file the edges of the stick/bushing square & this
> contributed to the play. For me, I don't know how to get perfection
without
> buying new parts & starting over. Guess I'll stay with what I have. But
> for the folks yet to get to this area, pay attention to fitting this. I
> thought I just had to file the bushing to get the proper fit in the
channel,
> & the remaining parts of the stick could be filed back.
>
> Rick Caldwell
> -6 I only managed 185 hrs in my 1st yr.
> Melbourne, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel bearings |
In a message dated 1/20/01 5:09:00 AM Pacific Standard Time,
RVer273sb(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< I was able to find sealed bearings to replace
the flanged original ones. I can't find the P/N at this
time but will locate it. I just went to Whistler Bearing
and they had a substitute which has a 1/2 in id. Just made
a bushing to make them 3/8. >>
This info has been carried in the Yeller Pages for some time now. The
bearing that was mentioned was GEN21506-88 from Whistler Bearing 719-475-7217.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop |
Rick,
Cutting down the bushings and filing them to within a couple of thousands of
desired length is pretty hit and miss. I was lucky, but many builders have
trouble with this part. Without a lathe it requires very careful hand work.
Ideally you want the bushings to be a tight fit in the U-shaped fitting
because if you compress the U it creates binding, as you have discovered.
Since you have bushings that are within a few thousands of proper length,
you might be able to build them up to proper length with solder. I'd flux
the ends, heat 1/2 below the ends with a propane torch, and wet the ends
with ordinary radio soft solder. Under non-rotating, compressional loads,
the solder should be a suitable "shim".
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 30 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Calvert <rv6bldr(at)home.com>
Date: Saturday, January 20, 2001 11:38 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Control Stick Slop
>
>The bushing should be long enough that the bolt clamps the bushing
>stationary in the channel so it doesn't move. The yoke assembly must move
>freely about the bushing but not slide fore and aft to any degree. So, the
>additional lenght of the bushing is just a few thousandths of an inch out
>each side of the yoke. Your slack is coming from a loose bolt and the out
>of round hole in the channel which shouldn't cause a problem when the bolt
>is tightened enough to clamp the bushing. I would order new bushings and
>refit them to get rid of the slack.
>
>Jerry Calvert
>Edmond Ok
>-6 fuselage
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Rick Caldwell <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
>To:
>Sent: Saturday, January 20, 2001 4:21 PM
>Subject: RV-List: Control Stick Slop
>
>
>>
>> Hello All,
>>
>> During my first annual insp. on my -6, I noticed I had elevator control
>play
>> that was traced to the pilot's stick. The amount of play at the top of
>the
>> stick was maybe 1/32", but hearing & feeling the movement made it seem
>like
>> more. For me, I don't know how to get perfection
>without
>> buying new parts & starting over. Guess I'll stay with what I have. But
>> for the folks yet to get to this area, pay attention to fitting this. I
>> thought I just had to file the bushing to get the proper fit in the
>channel,
>> & the remaining parts of the stick could be filed back.
>>
>> Rick Caldwell
>> -6 I only managed 185 hrs in my 1st yr.
>> Melbourne, FL
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "paul quick" <paulq(at)global.co.za> |
| Subject: | camloc 4002 fasteners |
i've been e-mailing skybolt aeromotive for the past couple weeks with no
response re camloc 4002 series for the RV-4 cowl anyone else have the same
snub?aircraft spruce answered the next day but don't carry the polished type
any ideas ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 stick boots |
Hi,
Can anyone recommend a supplier for RV-6 stick boots? I need a pair
that are NOT an integral part of the seat cushions. They should go on
independent of the seat cushions.
Thanks.
- Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: auto starters on O-320 |
In a message dated 1/20/01 8:19:35 AM Pacific Standard Time, ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< AIR-TEC in Orlando sells these brackets and starters, very nice setup. he
evenly exchanged my Lycoming starter and bracket because the Lycoming
starter
would not fit in the cowl, and it hit the exhaust. with this tiny starter
and bracket, all is OK.
oh yeah, the price out right for the starter and bracket was $199.00
let me know if you need the phone numbers to Air-Tec >>
Is this Dick Waters? If so I have him listed in the Yeller Pages. I didn't
know he was making these. I'll add that to his listing for posterity.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: auto starters on O-320 |
In a message dated 1/20/01 7:02:43 AM Pacific Standard Time,
DThomas773(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< Could you help me out a little here? Who is and hoe do I find Mark
Landfall? >>
What? Have been living under a rock my man?
Mark Landoll and everyone else that supplies things for RVs can be found at
my Yeller Pages at <http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm>
We are also linked from Van's and other quality sites.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying to the Bahamas) |
> FYI, the big numbers/letters are also required for flight across the
borders
> into Canada but I constantly see aircraft up here with the small ones. It
> appears to be one of those completely ignored regulations.
Bug numbers are required when crossing the US ADIZ. There is no ADIZ between
the US and Canada, so big numbers are not required. Check the FAR 45.19
(h), the AIM, and the archives, for more on this.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: camloc 4002 fasteners |
In a message dated 1/20/01 9:58:26 AM Pacific Standard Time,
paulq(at)global.co.za writes:
<< I've been e-mailing Skybolt Aeromotive for the past couple weeks with no
response re Camloc 4002 series for the RV-4 cowl anyone else have the same
snub? >>
I don't know what a snub is, but one of the great problems with E-mail is
that suppliers often get overwhelmed by the shear volume of crap that come
via E-mail (such as my post here), that they often treat all of it as
garbage. Try a phone call.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 stick boots |
In a message dated 1/20/01 10:00:07 AM Pacific Standard Time,
foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net writes:
<< Can anyone recommend a supplier for RV-6 stick boots? I need a pair
that are NOT an integral part of the seat cushions. They should go on
independent of the seat cushions. >>
DJ Lauritsen at Cleaveland Tool makes this type.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Hughes" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
If there is an RV-6 builder in the Denver area that would like a proven
fuselage jig (it has now built 5 fuselages!), please contact me off list.
The price is right (free) if you would like to pick it up. It will be
available at the end of this month.
Keith Hughes, RV-6, Fuse
Parker, CO
rv6tc(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | camloc 4002 fasteners |
Paul,
Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies carries the 40S5-xx Camlocs in various lengths
as well as receptacles. I don't know if these are the type you are looking
for or if they are polished or not. You can order a catalog from:
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Fuselage
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
i've been e-mailing skybolt aeromotive for the past couple weeks with no
response re camloc 4002 series for the RV-4 cowl anyone else have the same
snub?aircraft spruce answered the next day but don't carry the polished type
any ideas ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel pump vent line |
Hello Listers,
Pretty exciting this weekend, I'm doing a test fit of my engine to the
mounts to see what will clear what and what won't. I was worried about my
spin-on oil filter clearing my brake fluid resevoir but that appears okay.
What concerns me now is the engine-driven fuel pump vent. The port is going
to be very close to the firewall. If I put a 90 deg fitting on, it looks
like it will touch the firewall. This is on an RV-4 by the way. I looked
through the archives but couldn't find anything. Anyone else ever run into
this? If so what did you do? Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "paul quick" <paulq(at)global.co.za> |
| Subject: | ventilation rv-4 |
which naca duct is it that works on the RV-4 canopy forward or aft?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump vent line |
[snip]
> What concerns me now is the engine-driven fuel pump vent. The port is
going
> to be very close to the firewall. If I put a 90 deg fitting on, it looks
> like it will touch the firewall. This is on an RV-4 by the way.
Vans has a fitting just for this purpose. Part number F OVERFLOW PLUG 1/8".
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Reposted for archive (please guys, don't put DNA on your messages for good
stuff like this!)
>
> For listers having trouble with their tailwheel I would suggest taking a
> look at wheel made by Aviation Products in Calif.It is solid rubber tire
but
> feels like air tire on our Christen Eagle.We have had it for over a year
and
> it shows little wear.The price of the wheel and tire is so cheap you could
> replace it every year(25.20).We have double fork model which is also sold
by
> Aircraft Spruce(page 216 in 2000-2001 catolog).The tailwheel assembly
sells
> for 239.
> Ollie&Lorene Washburn RV6-A@FD77
> N795LW,O-360,180hp,C/S..
> .Do not arch*ve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph Koger" <kogrh(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel bearings |
Brian, check with Cleaveland Tool for Buzz & Mike at one time had a tail
wheel kit to replace the original bearings with some good quality ones. I
agree with you that the solid tire would be the best and less trouble for
when I had my RV-4 my tail wheel went south as you stated and who wants to
be stuck someplace.
Ralph Koger
RV-6A 16RK
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 20, 2001 1:54 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel bearings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ventilation rv-4 |
The Naca vent on the RV-4 should be mounted on the fuselage side forward of
the wing leading edge. The ones on the canopy skirt didn't work very well
as they are in the low-pressure area over the wing.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hours TT
O-320, Hartzell C/S
RV-6, Fuselage
O-360, Hartzell C/S
>
> which naca duct is it that works on the RV-4 canopy forward or aft?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump vent line |
In a message dated 1/20/01 12:26:16 PM Pacific Standard Time,
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com writes:
<< What concerns me now is the engine-driven fuel pump vent. The port is
going
to be very close to the firewall. If I put a 90 deg fitting on, it looks
like it will touch the firewall. This is on an RV-4 by the way. I looked
through the archives but couldn't find anything. Anyone else ever run into
this? If so what did you do? >>
Look on Pg 7 of Van's 2000 catalog and you will see that they sell just the
thing you need. I guess you're not alone.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | wing rib question |
I had previously drilled (with templet according to plans) the REAR flanges
of the MAIN ribs when I drilled forward flanges of same ribs. It appears I
jumped the gun and should have drilled rear flanges from the rear spar back
though the main ribs. Anyone see any problems by drilling from the ribs (aft)
back though rear spar? I don't have much choice other than order new ribs,
but I cannot see a problem as long as rib locations are correct. Thanks in
advance, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Speed increase from fairings |
I need some incentive to finish the gear leg and wheel fairings on my 6A.
How much cruise speed increase can I expect from:
A) Gear leg fairings
B) Wheel fairings (Pressure-recovery model)
Flying sure beats building!
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 33 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | sport aviation/bruce cruikshank |
to all listers,
does anyone know if Bruce can be reached by email ?
I'd like to get in touch with Bruce to set up a meeting with Polly, a female
aviator , who is currently making an attempt to fly solo around the world in
a Piper dakota.
Polly is doing this in aid of the scholarsships for disabled people who want
to obtain a pilots licence in the UK.
thanks for your help
Marcel de Ruiter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Speed increase from fairings |
> I need some incentive to finish the gear leg and wheel fairings on my 6A.
> How much cruise speed increase can I expect from:
> A) Gear leg fairings
> B) Wheel fairings (Pressure-recovery model)
>
> Flying sure beats building!
>
>
Dennis- you are right about that... just spent the last week in a cold hangar
re-attaching my engine after an unscheduled rebuild. I can't wait to be
flying again.
As for speed gains, I believe it's about 12 mph for the leg fairings and 6mph
_over stock model_ for the PR pants. The improvement over _bare
configuration_ should be quite substantial. Check the archives and the
RVator; I believe Van himself has tossed out some numbers on this very
question.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP
Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 stick boots |
> Can anyone recommend a supplier for RV-6 stick boots? I need a pair
> that are NOT an integral part of the seat cushions. They should go on
> independent of the seat cushions.
D.J. Lauritsen @ Cleveland Tools (see Yeller Pages) or 515-432-7287.
I like 'em.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 weight & balance |
Bob,
I have a pilot's operating Handbook on Kevin Horton's website that has the
info you want. I even included 6 different configurations. Kevin's webite
is at: http://members.nbci.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
17.5 hours
>From: "Bob Reiff" <Reiff(at)execpc.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV List"
>Subject: RV-List: RV-8 weight & balance
>Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 09:44:00 -0600
>
>
>I'm likely going to sell my RV4 kit and get an 8 instead. The final
>thing I want to look at is the CG envelope of the 8. I did review the
>archives and got a lot of comments but I don't see any W&B data on the
>Van's web site. What I want to do is figure out how much I can load in
>the rear seat & baggage compartments given my configuration (180 hp w/
>CS, VFR instruments, and my 175 lbs.).
>
>Any chance I could persuade someone who has an RV8 manual to fax me the
>W&B pages?
>
>Knowing how helpful you all are, to avoid getting multiple faxes how
>about just reply off list if you can do it and I'll reply to the first
>one received who can then fax it.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Bob Reiff
>Reiff Preheat Systems
>www.execpc.com/reiff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Alaska trip planning |
I have flown to Alaska in different types of equipment using the coastal and
inland routes. Flying in a single engine wheeled aircraft the Alaska Highway
is by far the safest route.
An example of a flight plan entering Canada say from Montana or Idaho would
be a stop in Lethbridge or Calgary, Alberta for customs then stopping or
overflying Edmonton, Grande Prairie, Fort St. John, Fort Nelson, Watson
Lake, Whitehorse and on to Fairbanks.
Would be happy to supply more detail for those interested. Please contact me
of the list.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: sport aviation/bruce cruikshank |
In a message dated 1/20/01 6:32:56 PM Pacific Standard Time,
marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com writes:
<< Does anyone know if Bruce can be reached by email?
I'd like to get in touch with Bruce to set up a meeting with Polly, a female
aviator, who is currently making an attempt to fly solo around the world in
a Piper Dakota.
Polly is doing this in aid of the scholarships for disabled people who want
to obtain a pilots license in the UK. >>
Bruce can be contacted at
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Speed increase from fairings |
An honest 10 mph with both.
Gary
Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
> I need some incentive to finish the gear leg and wheel fairings on my 6A.
> How much cruise speed increase can I expect from:
> A) Gear leg fairings
> B) Wheel fairings (Pressure-recovery model)
>
> Flying sure beats building!
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 33 hours
> Hampshire, IL C38
>
> _
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Speed increase from fairings |
>
This month RVator (5th issue 2000) has testimony from a builder that switched
from the old two piece metal gear leg fairing and old wheel pants to the new FG
fairings and pressure recovery wheel pants and gained nothing. Just food for
thought.
Gary
> Dennis- you are right about that... just spent the last week in a cold hangar
> re-attaching my engine after an unscheduled rebuild. I can't wait to be
> flying again.
>
> As for speed gains, I believe it's about 12 mph for the leg fairings and 6mph
> _over stock model_ for the PR pants. The improvement over _bare
> configuration_ should be quite substantial. Check the archives and the
> RVator; I believe Van himself has tossed out some numbers on this very
> question.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM |
1---DOES ANYONE HAVE ANYTHING NEGATIVE TO SAY? 2---POSATIVE ?
THANKS MIKE RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Roughness on one Electronic Ignition - problem |
self-crrected?
> I just finished installing a second Lightspeed Eng. EI for the bottom set of
> plugs.
First question is why? I understand that the first EI does 90% of the
improvement. Are you a member of the IOTMC (Instrument of the Month Club)?
Inquiring minds want to know.
>
>
> When I started the engine with both electronic units I noticed that the new
> unit firing the lower set of spark plugs worked fine. Engine ran normally.
> I can enable/disable each ignition system independently.
>
> When the "old" EI was operated alone (top plugs) the engine ran rough.
> Obviously something was amiss. This system had been working flawlessly up
> till then. With the "new" system also on, the engine ran smoothly even if
> the 'old' system was also turned on. (Was the new system 'masking' a problem
> in the 'old' system?)
Did you mess with the top system at all. If the plug wires are backwards from
two cylinders, say 1 and 2 or 2 and 4, the engine will run rough at idle but
backfire and pop and eventually die as you apply power. When gapping the plugs
you may set the plug wire straight when reinstalling. This would cure the
problem. Please don't ask me how I know.
>
>
> I checked plug gaps, cleaned the plugs with sandblast, re-checked and re-set
> the Hall-Effect 'pickups' that set engine firing and now the engine runs
> fine with either EI unit or with both running.
Do both ignitions use the same hall effect sensors? Or are use using mag insert
Hall modules? If they are flywheel triggered is there a chance that you
disturbed the first set and when resetting got them back to there close
tolerances?
>
>
> What's your guess?
My guess is that the automotive style plug wires were possibly cross firing due
to being to close to one another. Automotive plug wires do not age gracefully
and need separation from one another to keep the high energy spark from mixing.
The problem may not show up when new but after a couple of hundred hours could
cause this sort of problem.
>
>
> I really don't think what I did changed anything...all seems in order, and
> things are tight, nothing loose, no arcing or shorts, just a bothersome
> nagging feeling that whatever happened could come back at a bad time.
I feel your pain. The thought of a burp in the ignition on any flight should
cause a non fuzzy feeling.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | wing rib question |
What are you building Bob?
I'm building an RV-8 and the rear spar was pre-punched so I would not be
able to backdrill through the ribs.
In your case it sounds like the rear spar is not pre-punched in which case I
can't see a problem back drilling. Just make sure to clamp down the ribs in
the desired position prior to drilling. If you followed the plans when
drilling the rear flanges, the holes you drilled should be ok and not
interfer with i.e. a doubler fork etc. Again, I'm not sure what you're
building.
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
Sent: January 20, 2001 8:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: wing rib question
I had previously drilled (with templet according to plans) the REAR flanges
of the MAIN ribs when I drilled forward flanges of same ribs. It appears I
jumped the gun and should have drilled rear flanges from the rear spar back
though the main ribs. Anyone see any problems by drilling from the ribs
(aft)
back though rear spar? I don't have much choice other than order new ribs,
but I cannot see a problem as long as rib locations are correct. Thanks in
advance, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Speed increase from fairings |
I don't know, but I am putting them on my RV-8. I used RV-4 gear on it
though.
Stan Mehrhoff
RV-8
In the paint shop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: wing rib question |
Building a 6 here-pre punched spar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: wing rib question |
Correction: NOT PREPUNCHED SPAR.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel pump vent line |
Thanks! You know, I actually remember seeing that item in the catalog now!
I appreciate the help.
-----Original Message-----
From: Randall Henderson
Sent: 1/20/01 1:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel pump vent line
[snip]
> What concerns me now is the engine-driven fuel pump vent. The port is
going
> to be very close to the firewall. If I put a 90 deg fitting on, it
looks
> like it will touch the firewall. This is on an RV-4 by the way.
Vans has a fitting just for this purpose. Part number F OVERFLOW PLUG
1/8".
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | Speed increase from fairings |
I think I recall reading in the Construction manual somewhere that the wheel
pants give you about 4mph and the gear leg fairings about 8mph.
Your mileage may vary.
James
... about to do gear leg fairings and wheel pants etc.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dennis Persyk
Sent: Saturday, January 20, 2001 9:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: Speed increase from fairings
I need some incentive to finish the gear leg and wheel fairings on my 6A.
How much cruise speed increase can I expect from:
A) Gear leg fairings
B) Wheel fairings (Pressure-recovery model)
Flying sure beats building!
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 33 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 1/20/01 7:45:44 PM Pacific Standard Time,
MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< 1---DOES ANYONE HAVE ANYTHING NEGATIVE TO SAY? 2---POSITIVE ? >>
Several of the LVK guys have Catto three bladed props and they are
unanimously positive about them. FYI Craig also makes props for some of the
unmanned high altitude prop planes flying out of Edwards AFB, so he really
does know his stuff.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wing rib question |
--- Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> I had previously drilled (with templet according to plans) the REAR
> flanges
> of the MAIN ribs when I drilled forward flanges of same ribs.
Bob, you are doing it exactly right.
Drill your rib flanges first so you get centered and evenly spaced
holes, then cleco onto main spar. Having marked a centerline along the
(long) rib flanges, clamp/cleco/hang your main skins and locate the
rear spar attach point wherever it takes to line up the pre-punched
skin holes. These may or may not be right on the measurements,
depending on how well your wing skeleton is jigged in the vertical.
Make the holes line up with the rib centerline! That's the primary
goal.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Panel
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Speed increase from fairings |
>
> Gary,
>
> That sure doesn't jive with what Van's has stated in previous RVator's. I
think others on the list have found gains in the new wheel pants. I think
Sam B. did an article on his web site, the RV Journal.
>
I changed from the old style pants to the new style. My performance
comparison numbers are at
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/Pant.htm
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | The Razers <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Speed increase from fairings |
I flew with no upper or lower gear leg fairings, Vans one piece pants
and Vans gear leg fairings and my TAS as measured with an RMI encoder
was 193 mph. I changed to Sam James one piece pants and added upper and
lower intersection fairings and kept Vans gear leg fairings and my top
TAS went to 207 mph. Im now thinking about adding sam james wing root fairings.
chet and miss Chiquita 310 hours now
Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
>
> I need some incentive to finish the gear leg and wheel fairings on my 6A.
> How much cruise speed increase can I expect from:
> A) Gear leg fairings
> B) Wheel fairings (Pressure-recovery model)
>
> Flying sure beats building!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Gary,
I'm not sure, but I think your talking about my (ok, it's not mine, but I've worked
on it for 4 years now, and I was the crew chief in 98') airplane, Helios.
It's the 247' solar/electric powered unmanned flying wing we've (AeroVironment)
been testing up at Dryden the last couple of years. Some NASA pic's are at:
http://trc.dfrc.nasa.gov/gallery/photo/Helios/index.html
We had Craig build some props for us (our design) for one of the first incarnations
of the flying wing, but we've been doing them in house for at 4 years now.
I do believe we had Craig's props on when we got to 60,000'. We since have
pushed that to 82,000' with the sister ship, Pathfinder.
Just for an update that some may be interested in, we've finished all the low altitude
(with batteries) flight testing up at Dryden (Edwards) and are finished
installing big bucks worth of high efficiency solar cells on the airplane.
Were about to ship it over to Kauai, Hawaii to start the high altitude testing.
We hope to fly it to 100,000 feet sometime around June or July. I'll be part
of the flight team for a couple of months doing some flight training (rough
duty, but someone's got to do it).
For the last year I've been working on the O2/H2 Fuel Cell and Electrolyzer development
that will (we hope) make this airplane fly for months at a time. It's
hoped that we'll end up with a low altitude (mid 50K range) satilite for the
comumications industry.
Look for us in the news in the upcoming months to see how we do.
Laird RV-6
GV wrote:
Several of the LVK guys have Catto three bladed props and they are
unanimously positive about them. FYI Craig also makes props for some of the
unmanned high altitude prop planes flying out of Edwards AFB, so he really
does know his stuff.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Oberst" <joberst(at)columbus.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Engine Primer Plumbing |
I am adding a primer system to my Lycoming O-360 A1D. I have two choices
for routing the lines from the cylinders to the primer valve... either down
low, along the bottoms of the rocker covers, or up high, along the tops.
Any advice? Can people tell me how the primer lines are routed on their
engines?
Jim Oberst
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Primer Plumbing |
>
>
>I am adding a primer system to my Lycoming O-360 A1D. I have two choices
>for routing the lines from the cylinders to the primer valve... either down
>low, along the bottoms of the rocker covers, or up high, along the tops.
>Any advice? Can people tell me how the primer lines are routed on their
>engines?
>
>Jim Oberst
>
Jim,
I have a manual primer pump installation. The source comes from the top of
the firewall mounted gascolator. Then, from the primer pump output to the
center of the firewall where a bulkhead T fitting is installed. One side of
the T fitting is routed directly to the bottom primer/manifold pressure port
in cylinder #3. The other side of the T fitting is routed to right under
the intercylinder baffle between cylinders 2 and 4. Here, another T fitting
is used to enable connection to the bottom primer/manifold pressure ports in
these cylinders. I used the solder type brass primer fittings to make the
connections at the three cylinders. 1/8" copper tubing is used throughout.
Works great.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
163 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Speed increase from fairings |
I have some pretty hard numbers on this. I flew my 6A for about 6 months
without any gear fairings at all. I then added the original (old style)
wheel fairings and flew about 2 months. I picked up 3mph. After adding the
gear leg fairings (2 piece metal from Van's, and the window
molding/fiberglass wrap on the nose leg) I picked up an additional 12mph. I
then added custom intersection fairings and had no noticeable increase. I
flew it that way for a few years then switched to the PR main fairings and
picked up another 5mph. So in my case I'm looking at a 20mph increase from
bare legs to fully faired - is that enough incentive? :-)
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
ebundy(at)micron.net
> I need some incentive to finish the gear leg and wheel fairings on my 6A.
> How much cruise speed increase can I expect from:
> A) Gear leg fairings
> B) Wheel fairings (Pressure-recovery model)
>
> Flying sure beats building!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bonanza vs RV-6/Long |
Larry Pardue wrote:
> Yesterday I flew in formation with a late model, straight tail, short
> fuselage Bonanza
{{for purposes of comparison}}
> he can carry way more people and luggage
He needs the luggage capacity to carry more gas and money for repairs.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
Debonair N6134V (straight tail bonanza) for sale.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wing rib question |
Bob Paulo wrote:
>I don't have much choice other than order new ribs,
Don't jump the gun again, Bob. I am not sure what you have done but I
seriously doubt that you need to replace the ribs.
We need more info - what model plane? Wing or stab?
Again, work on something else for awhile if necessary till you get this
clearly explained or get someone to look at it etc.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Sweemer" <teetimeah64(at)hotmail.com> |
I need ideas from my fellow builders as to how I can get an engine and
prop. The problem is that I don't have the money and am on a fixed income.
Everything else is pretty much built on my RV4. However, I do have time on
my hands. I am retired but if I go out and make more than a little bit of
money I start losing Social Security benefits.
Is there any way anyone knows how I can work (on my computer or
otherwise) for someone in trade for an engine and prop. Any ideas?
Tim Sweemer
RV4 builder
Ogden, Ks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
| Subject: | Re: Speed increase from fairings |
Dennis--
I recently replaced my gear leg fairings (Tracy Saylor) and put on new
Sam James wheel fairings. I had real good performance numbers with the
fairings on. With the fairings off (including the fuse. intersection
fairing) I lost exactly 20 mph. (8,000' msl, 24" MAP, 2400 RPM, very
close to Standard Day density altitude).
Note to Builders: do not fit the gear leg fairings too tightly to the
gear legs (ESP. if have have the longer RV-4 mains or the titanium
gear--as the gear can flex more then the fairings and dent, crease
and/or crack them). Also make sure you put a "bulkhead" behind the
tires in the wheel fairings to keep out the dirt/mud/whatever--it also
adds a little strength "insurance" for things like grass strips, etc.
Also, make up a set of "chocks" for the mains set at the height that you
consider your low tire pressure limit--if the chocks don't fit under the
fairings, time to add air.
Boyd
RV-S6
N600SS
>
>
> I need some incentive to finish the gear leg and wheel fairings on my 6A.
> How much cruise speed increase can I expect from:
> A) Gear leg fairings
> B) Wheel fairings (Pressure-recovery model)
>
> Flying sure beats building!
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 33 hours
> Hampshire, IL C38
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | Matronics Web Server Upgrade... |
B
Dear Listers,
I will be upgrading the Matronics Web Server this afternoon (1/21/01)
and will be taking it offline for a number of hours. I hope to have it
back online by this evening sometime, depending on how well the upgrade
goes.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wing rib question |
In a message dated 1/20/01 5:52:59 PM Pacific Standard Time, Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< I had previously drilled (with templet according to plans) the REAR
flanges
of the MAIN ribs when I drilled forward flanges of same ribs. It appears I
jumped the gun and should have drilled rear flanges from the rear spar back
though the main ribs. Anyone see any problems by drilling from the ribs
(aft)
back though rear spar? I don't have much choice other than order new ribs,
but I cannot see a problem as long as rib locations are correct. Thanks in
advance, Bob >>
Bob: It's been a long time since I built my -6 wings but if I remember
correctly thats the way I did it and I don't recall any problems. My wings
were built trailing edge down in the jig and it just seemed natural to drill
from the rib through the rear spar. Don't forget to provide for the rivets
that attach the aileron brackets.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
Does any one have Monty Barretts phone # Or location>Thanks Terry B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New RV6A web page..!!! |
Daniel, I keep getting kicked back to the intelred.com.mx/homeplace/
page. I can not seem to view your page.
Any suggestions?
Mike
>
>
>Hi listers!!
>
>Finally I can build a web page for my RV6A, here is the URL:
>
>www.haveaplace.com/estrada
>=======================
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Aurora, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Sweemer" <teetimeah64(at)hotmail.com> |
does anyone know if there are any rv4 (toy)models out there yet to put on my
desk?
Tim
RV4 trying to get engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: need an engine |
Tim Sweemer wrote:
> I need ideas from my fellow builders as to how I can get an engine and
> prop.
Tim,
I'm in a similar situation -- RV-6 airframe close to complete, and no
spare money to buy an engine. If you get any spare offers of computer
work for an engine, let me know?
In the meantime, I'm planning on going the auto-conversion route, using
a Mazda 13B rotary. From what others have said, it probably won't be any
cheaper to install than a used Lyc (there are still a few big-ticket
items (PSRU, prop)) and there is a fair amount of installation work. But
the extra work time gives you time to save money for the expensive
stuff. And when it comes time to rebuild, it will cost you a fraction of
a Lyc rebuild.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kit Plane Boards" <Kitplane(at)tradezone.com> |
| Subject: | New Site Kitplaneforum.com |
Hello RVers!
I just got this website online and thought you would like to check it out.
http://www.kitplaneforum.com/
It would be great if you could also share your RV information on this forum.
Thanks!
Trip Mellinger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Monty Barrett |
http://www.bpaengines.com/
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com\dougr
>
> Does any one have Monty Barretts phone # Or location>Thanks Terry B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Sweemer" <teetimeah64(at)hotmail.com> |
Hey everyone,
That msg with the subject "snow white and the 7 dwarfs" has a virus on the
attachment! BE CAREFUL!
Tim
RV4 builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | RV6 project on E-bay |
FYI
RV-6A Project for sale!
Item #541179368
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com\dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
You know...I received that email about 5 times from someone I did not
know....so I never opened the exe file. YEAH BABY, being careful sometimes
does pay off. Woohooo...no virus for me....happy virus taught me a lesson.
Bill
-4 wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Sweemer" <teetimeah64(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2001 6:58 PM
Subject: RV-List: virus alert
>
> Hey everyone,
> That msg with the subject "snow white and the 7 dwarfs" has a virus on the
> attachment! BE CAREFUL!
>
> Tim
> RV4 builder
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
List:
Was just doing some long range dreaming about what my panel will eventually
look like, and read Sam B's account of the Panel Planner software. Upon
visiting their website, no mention was made of the $99.00 home version that
Sam reviewed. Anyone know if this version is still available? Not sure
that I want to shell out $199.00 for the pro version. Thanks.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuse
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM |
THANKS GV , IV'E JUST ABOUT DECIDED TO GO WITH HIM. MIKE RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panelplanner |
> Was just doing some long range dreaming about what my panel will eventually
> look like, and read Sam B's account of the Panel Planner software. Upon
> visiting their website, no mention was made of the $99.00 home version that
> Sam reviewed. Anyone know if this version is still available? Not sure
> that I want to shell out $199.00 for the pro version. Thanks.
You can make your own "panel planner" with about 10 minutes worth of work and
any graphics program.
I did my panel layout in Corel Draw. It took a couple minutes to sketch out the
shape of the RV panel and put in the bulkheads and other obstructions. Then
make 2 1/4" circles, a 3" circles and a couple of rectangles for your radios.
You can move them around on your screen just as in Panel Planner and decide how
you want things laid out. You can even print out templates to trace your final
design on your actual panel sheet. No, Corel Draw won't tell you how much money
you've spent; but, you probably don't want to know that anyway.
Panel Planner is probably a good tool for a professional avionics shops that do
many different types of panel layouts every week and wants some fancy stuff to
impress their customers. But for the one time use for your RV, save the $200
and put it into a better radio.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://buildersbooks.com
eCharts
http://eCharts.cc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Panelplanner |
>
>List:
>
>Was just doing some long range dreaming about what my panel will eventually
>look like, and read Sam B's account of the Panel Planner software. Upon
>visiting their website, no mention was made of the $99.00 home version that
>Sam reviewed. Anyone know if this version is still available? Not sure
>that I want to shell out $199.00 for the pro version. Thanks.
>
>Regards,
>
>Jeff Orear
The $99 home version is no longer sold. And anyone who has an older
version of the $99 edition who didn't download the various free
updates when they came out because maybe he was taking a break from
working on the panel for a few months will find that the free
software updates are no longer available. If you don't want to fork
out for the Pro version they don't want to talk to you. You can
probably guess what I think of their customer support.
If you search the archives you will also find some people complain
that the dimensions don't work out perfectly, so Panel Planner is
best viewed as an approximate way to try out various ideas, not as a
precise tool.
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Subject: Re: RV-List: virus alert
>
> You know...I received that email about 5 times from someone I did not
> know....so I never opened the exe file. YEAH BABY, being careful
sometimes
> does pay off. Woohooo...no virus for me....happy virus taught me a
lesson.
>
> Bill
> -4 wings
>
>
Ditto Bill! I have also received several with a "hahaha" title which I
also deleted. I also received notice of a on-line Holiday Greeting card
which invited me to open it to receive my "code". Never did and won't -too
risky!
Ed Anderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Ervin <bjervin(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New RV6A web page..!!! |
Nice Web page Daniel, My Espanol is no bueno horita, pero, yo puede leo
con un dicionerio. Its really tough to write in spanish without all
the letters of the Spanish Alphabet and my verb conjugation sucks. :-)
Happy Building
Bill
RV-6 Fuse
Spokane WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Audio Amplifier |
In a message dated 1/18/01 11:36:19 AM Pacific Standard Time,
garth(at)Islandnet.com writes:
<< Did you happen to measure the results for cruise. And what filter was
chosen for the dB meter? Was it flat noise you were measuring? I believe
my numbers were for cruise conditions.
For your information, I reproduce numbers reported in Burt Rutan's Canard
Pusher # 15.
VariEze no mufflers 75% pwr 98.5 dB
VariEze mufflers 75% pwr 96.5 dB
VariEze no mufflers 50% pwr 95.0 dB
VariEze mufflers 50% pwr 93.5 dB
Cessna 150 75% pwr 93.5 dB
Piper PA28-140 75% pwr 91.0 dB
VariEze numbers were 1 to 2 dB higher for back seat. Filter not specified.
>>
Okay, I have some new data that will get the ball rolling in talking
intelligently about RV sound levels. FYI, my sound meter is available to
anyone wanting to measure their particular plane, you keep it for about a
week and pay postage both ways. I went out today to get cheap fuel at Rio
Vista, CA and on the way I took my Quest Model 211FS Sound Meter. I
calibrated the meter prior to departure in the hangar using the supplied
optional 110 dB sound source. All data was taken using the dBA scale
(approximates human hearing response curve), the meter speed on slow (for
capturing continuous acoustic noise), sans filter, mic facing forward, at ear
level, centered transversely in the cabin, with all vents closed and radio
speaker turned off. I stripped butt naked (as Terry Jantzi did for his high
attitude record shot) so that my clothing would not affect the readings (just
kidding). The aircraft is an RV-6A slider w/O-360-A1A, Vetterman crossover
exhaust, Hartzell C/S, Cleaveland upholstery, Rubitex floor pads, carpeting,
3/4" Soundcoat HT polyimide foam on the inside firewall and 1/4" EAR C-3202
closed cell vinyl damping foam on the tail cone skins.
It would be interesting if someone had a portable spectrum analyzer, as my
empirical observation (based on my recollection of the last time I was in a
C152) is that the frequency band experienced in the RV cabin is higher.
The following sound readings were taken:
Idle (700-1000 rpm) 80-82 dBA
Taxi (700-1000 rpm) 80-82 dBA
Climb (2500-2650 rpm @ 500-3500 ft MSL) 98-100 dBA
Cruise (23.5 inHg, 2350 rpm @ 3500 ft MSL) 93-95 dBA
Descent (20.0 inHg, 2250 rpm @ 3000 ft MSL) 90-94 dBA
BTW, I wear Lightspeed 25XLs (which I believe are rated at 40 dBA reduction)
so my ear holes are right at 55 dBA in cruise, which you could stand forever.
By contrast, the noise level in my Jeep Grand Cherokee with 4.7L V-8 on the
way home was 70 dBA at 70 mph, but it is definitely in a lower frequency band.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Panelplanner |
Before you spend any time looking for it you might check the article I wrote
on it for our builder's group newsletter...
www.rv-8.com/pgPanel.htm, near the bottom of the page.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, final systems installation
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2001 4:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Panelplanner
>
> List:
>
> Was just doing some long range dreaming about what my panel will
eventually
> look like, and read Sam B's account of the Panel Planner software. Upon
> visiting their website, no mention was made of the $99.00 home version
that
> Sam reviewed. Anyone know if this version is still available? Not sure
> that I want to shell out $199.00 for the pro version. Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A
> fuse
> Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Ervin <bjervin(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Fix for: Daniel's New RV6A web page..!!! |
Hi All, I had the same problem
Just add "estrada" after the last / in the new URL, it will take you
right were you want to go. Then don't forget to bookmark it.
And if you can't read Espaniol don't forget your English/Spanish
Dictionary, although some words will translate without it.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Ervin <bjervin(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panelplanner |
One of the main RV sites has an area which contains some full size
instrument templates. I just saw the site yesterday, but didn't
bookmark it. It was done by Mike Talley in Arlington Wa.
Maybe someone else knows the address.
Bill
Builder's Bookstore wrote:
>
>
> > Was just doing some long range dreaming about what my panel will eventually
> > look like, and read Sam B's account of the Panel Planner software. Upon
> > visiting their website, no mention was made of the $99.00 home version that
> > Sam reviewed. Anyone know if this version is still available? Not sure
> > that I want to shell out $199.00 for the pro version. Thanks.
>
> You can make your own "panel planner" with about 10 minutes worth of work and
> any graphics program.
>
> I did my panel layout in Corel Draw. It took a couple minutes to sketch out the
> shape of the RV panel and put in the bulkheads and other obstructions. Then
> make 2 1/4" circles, a 3" circles and a couple of rectangles for your radios.
> You can move them around on your screen just as in Panel Planner and decide how
> you want things laid out. You can even print out templates to trace your final
> design on your actual panel sheet. No, Corel Draw won't tell you how much money
> you've spent; but, you probably don't want to know that anyway.
>
> Panel Planner is probably a good tool for a professional avionics shops that
do
> many different types of panel layouts every week and wants some fancy stuff to
> impress their customers. But for the one time use for your RV, save the $200
> and put it into a better radio.
>
> Andy
> Builder's Bookstore
> http://buildersbooks.com
>
> eCharts
> http://eCharts.cc
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panelplanner |
Jeff Orear wrote:
>
>
> List:
>
> Was just doing some long range dreaming about what my panel will eventually
> look like, and read Sam B's account of the Panel Planner software. Upon
> visiting their website, no mention was made of the $99.00 home version that
> Sam reviewed. Anyone know if this version is still available? Not sure
> that I want to shell out $199.00 for the pro version. Thanks.
I have removed the Panel Planner review from my web site. In my opinion,
the cost/value ratio of the Pro version is a bit lacking for the
homebuilder.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panelplanner |
If they are not selling it anymore, and not supporting it either....then we
can declare it as shareware right?
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2001 10:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Panelplanner
>
> Before you spend any time looking for it you might check the article I
wrote
> on it for our builder's group newsletter...
> www.rv-8.com/pgPanel.htm, near the bottom of the page.
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, #80500, final systems installation
> www.rv-8.com
> Home Wing VAF
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2001 4:33 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Panelplanner
>
>
> >
> > List:
> >
> > Was just doing some long range dreaming about what my panel will
> eventually
> > look like, and read Sam B's account of the Panel Planner software. Upon
> > visiting their website, no mention was made of the $99.00 home version
> that
> > Sam reviewed. Anyone know if this version is still available? Not sure
> > that I want to shell out $199.00 for the pro version. Thanks.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Jeff Orear
> > RV6A
> > fuse
> > Peshtigo, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
I received that message several times too. I guess the whole list received
it. I put a blocker on it to keep from getting it any longer. I was
curious as to where it came from since I have 3 teenagers and try to keep on
top of what they are doing on the internet. Back tracked it and it was from
an adult site and linked to one of our listers. I doubt if they even know
they are the spreader of the message! When they send an email, the dwarfs
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Sweemer <teetimeah64(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2001 5:58 PM
Subject: RV-List: virus alert
>
> Hey everyone,
> That msg with the subject "snow white and the 7 dwarfs" has a virus on the
> attachment! BE CAREFUL!
>
> Tim
> RV4 builder
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)ticnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alaska trip planning |
Eustace, what is the coastal weather in Jun-Aug? Would planning a
flight from Port Hardy to Ketchikan to Juneau and on up the coast be
practical? I understand the coastal weather can change rapidly...
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
-6A flying past 315 hours
Eustace Bowhay wrote:
>
>
> I have flown to Alaska in different types of equipment using the coastal and
> inland routes. Flying in a single engine wheeled aircraft the Alaska Highway
> is by far the safest route.
>
> An example of a flight plan entering Canada say from Montana or Idaho would
> be a stop in Lethbridge or Calgary, Alberta for customs then stopping or
> overflying Edmonton, Grande Prairie, Fort St. John, Fort Nelson, Watson
> Lake, Whitehorse and on to Fairbanks.
>
> Would be happy to supply more detail for those interested. Please contact me
> of the list.
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | A new question on fairings .. options |
Does anyone on the list have any data on the "best" (speed and ease of
installation) choice of gear leg and intersection fairings for an RV6A with
Van's newer pressure recovery wheel pants????
I have a set of Rocket Fairings (gear leg and intersection **AND** a set of
Van's fiberglass gearleg fairings. Was about to start installing the Rocket
Fairings but since my two RV-building buddies have already done their
**VAN'S** gearleg fairings with the homemade intersection fairings, I
thought ... hmmmm, maybe I should just follow suit.
This was especially the case when I noticed the width difference between the
Rocket Fairings (all of which look GREAT! ... thanks Mark) and Van's.
What I am trying to find is a solid reason to pursue one path or another.
Even outlandish opinions will be accepted. ;-)
James
p.s. If I go the "Van's" route, I ***may*** have a nice set of Rocket
Fairings for sale.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim servo... |
Dan, we purchased the trim kit from Vans and installed it following the
instructions as much as we could. The servo mount had to be customed fitted
but so does many other parts.
We are not flying yet but we have bench tested the system and it works well.
Maybe a little too responsive so we may install a 1K pot in series wiht the
motor drive voltage.
Rod & Rollie
6A finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: speed increase from fairings |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Speed increase from fairings
I need some incentive to finish the gear leg and wheel fairings on my 6A.
How much cruise speed increase can I expect from:
A) Gear leg fairings
B) Wheel fairings (Pressure-recovery model)
Flying sure beats building!
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 33 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
- - - - - - - - - - - - -
While doing the initial flight testing of the RV-8A prototype (N58VA) and
more recently the new RV-9A (N129RV) it was discovered that adding the
fully finished (all intersection fairings, etc) wheel pants and leg
fairings, that the flat out full power max speed increased by 25 MPH on
both airplanes compared to what it was with bare (naked?) gear legs.
This is with wheel pants and leg fairings that were very carefully
positioned so as to be as directly aligned with the relative wind as
possible.
The speed increase on an RV using a fixed pitch prop could conceivably be
even better because as you gain speed from the drag reduction you get
more engine RPM, which gives you more power, which gives you more speed,
which gives you even more engine RPM, which gives you....
Scott McDaniels
Aurora, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rywessel(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Epoxy F694B intersection fairing |
I noticed during a recent visit to Van's that they have upgraded the F694B
empenage intersection fairing to be epoxy. I am at the point of fitting my
current old style (polyester?) type and have noticed as most have that the
initial fit is very poor. The cost of the new fairing is $78. Already having
a distaste for fiberglass after fitting the cowl, has anyone tried the new
part? If it could save 2-4 hours of aggravation I will gladly pay for the
improved part. I will give Van's a call to get their opinion- any outside
comments appreciated.
Robin Wessel
RV-6A finishing
Tigard, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wing rib question |
"These may or may not be right on the measurements, depending on how well
your wing skeleton is jigged in the vertical."
Hear, hear! I had several ribs migrate away from their nominal (per plans)
stations because of the prepunched skins. When I build the next wing, I
won't even bother measuring station locations. BTW, I would make darn sure
the plumb lines are in place and correct before locating ribs using the
skins, because those holes are going to be vertical.
Jim Bower
St. Louis
RV-6A
Wings
>From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: wing rib question
>Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 02:33:40 -0800 (PST)
>
>
>--- Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM wrote:
> >
> > I had previously drilled (with templet according to plans) the REAR
> > flanges
> > of the MAIN ribs when I drilled forward flanges of same ribs.
>
>Bob, you are doing it exactly right.
>Drill your rib flanges first so you get centered and evenly spaced
>holes, then cleco onto main spar. Having marked a centerline along the
>(long) rib flanges, clamp/cleco/hang your main skins and locate the
>rear spar attach point wherever it takes to line up the pre-punched
>skin holes. These may or may not be right on the measurements,
>depending on how well your wing skeleton is jigged in the vertical.
>Make the holes line up with the rib centerline! That's the primary
>goal.
>
>Mike Thompson
>Austin, TX
>-6 N140RV (Reserved)
>Panel
>
>
>Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
>http://auctions.yahoo.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: A new question on fairings .. options |
JAMES-THE WIDTH OF THE GEAR LEG FAIRINGS ARE TAKEN FROM VERT STAB-WIDER ARE
NOT BETTER-CHECK WITH VAN REGARDS TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "<Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com> |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with ESMTP id
for" ;
Mon,
22 Jan 2001 08:46:17.-0500(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Panelplanner |
01/22/2001 08:47:02 AM
I have the $99.00 version of PP. IMHO its worth about $29. Its good for
printing off color pics of instruments and taping them to your actual
panel. Hell, you can stack instruments on top of each other if you want.
That doesn't help much for laying out your instruments. Look around, you
can borrow (disk burner?) a copy from someone.
Eric Henson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "<Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com> |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with ESMTP id
for" ;
Mon,
22 Jan 2001 08:48:05.-0500(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Epoxy F694B intersection fairing |
01/22/2001 08:48:50 AM
Just lay up your own by using the piece of &
*%*
% that Van gave you as a
mold. Cover the one you have with mold release and wet out a single layer
of glass. Pull that off and tape it very securely to the emp. It will be
very flexible and will conform easily. Now cover that with mold release
also. Now lay up about three layers of 10oz glass with two layers of light
matt. You now have a perfect fairing. When it dries rough up the outside
and paint on a slurry of epoxy resin and West 407. Then sand it fair with a
firm sanding block. As Emeril would say "BAM", you got your self a perfect
fairing.
Thanks Bob Skinner, wherever you are.
Eric Henson
Canopy Frame
Rywessel(at)AOL.COM@matronics.com on 01/22/2001 01:09:54 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Epoxy F694B intersection fairing
I noticed during a recent visit to Van's that they have upgraded the F694B
empenage intersection fairing to be epoxy. I am at the point of fitting my
current old style (polyester?) type and have noticed as most have that the
initial fit is very poor. The cost of the new fairing is $78. Already
having
a distaste for fiberglass after fitting the cowl, has anyone tried the new
part? If it could save 2-4 hours of aggravation I will gladly pay for the
improved part. I will give Van's a call to get their opinion- any outside
comments appreciated.
Robin Wessel
RV-6A finishing
Tigard, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
I use Paint Shop Pro 4.12, it's shareware, and I think you can still find it
on the net someplace to download... Take a look at my website:
http://vondane.com/rv8a/panel/index.htm, and you can see the panel I made
with it. (it's only the latest of about a million panels I have made the
last year and a half)... I used to have panel template downloads for all RV
models, but ran out of web space and had to remove them. I am, however,
going to move my website to my own (co-located) server this week hopefully,
and I will put them back up, along with an instrument pack download... I
will let you all know when I have it all ready...
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stephen J. Soule
Sent: Monday, January 22, 2001 6.16 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Panelplanner
Hi Andy,
Any idea where I can get Corel Draw for less than $400? That's the price at
the local Staples. I think it's a great program, but too pricey for me. I
think that I could use it to create a paint scheme for the RV-6A, too.
Steve Soule
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Sound levels in RVs (was: Audio Amplifier) |
I can recommend Cool Edit 2000 by syntrillium.com (30 day trial version).
You just have to find a way to record the sound (unless you have a laptop with
sound card to bring in the plane). BTW, if you come up with a good idea for a
sound recorder that records actual levels (no level compression as in cam
corders), please let me know.
Finn
Vanremog(at)AOL.COM wrote:
> It would be interesting if someone had a portable spectrum analyzer, as my
> empirical observation (based on my recollection of the last time I was in a
> C152) is that the frequency band experienced in the RV cabin is higher.
Shop online without a credit card
http://www.rocketcash.com
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
Hi,
I am wiring up the Push to talk switches into the sticks on my RV-6
project. I am curious as to whether other builders have been (a)exiting
the PTT wires out of the bottom of the stick weldment between the two
bearing rod ends OR (b) exiting the PTT wires through a grommeted hold
drilled somewhere on the stick, (if so, where? front, back, left side,
right side?)
Thanks,
-Glenn Gordon
N442E reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine Primer Plumbing |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I have an D3G from a Piper Warrior. Three of the four jugs are stood off
below the jugs at the sump attach bolts.
The supply fitting is on the left side under #4.
Don Jordan RV6A Arlington, Tx
*****************************************
writes:
>
>
> I am adding a primer system to my Lycoming O-360 A1D. I have two
> choices
> for routing the lines from the cylinders to the primer valve...
> either down
> low, along the bottoms of the rocker covers, or up high, along the
> tops.
> Any advice? Can people tell me how the primer lines are routed on
> their
> engines?
>
> Jim Oberst
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Epoxy F694B intersection fairing |
The epoxy fairing on my -8 fit real well. It took very little 'tweaking' to
get it to fit perfectly.
- Bill in Tucson
wiring
-----Original Message-----
From: Rywessel(at)AOL.COM <Rywessel(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Sunday, January 21, 2001 11:41 PM
Subject: RV-List: Epoxy F694B intersection fairing
>
>I noticed during a recent visit to Van's that they have upgraded the F694B
>empenage intersection fairing to be epoxy. I am at the point of fitting my
>current old style (polyester?) type and have noticed as most have that the
>initial fit is very poor. The cost of the new fairing is $78. Already
having
>a distaste for fiberglass after fitting the cowl, has anyone tried the new
>part? If it could save 2-4 hours of aggravation I will gladly pay for the
>improved part. I will give Van's a call to get their opinion- any outside
>comments appreciated.
>
>Robin Wessel
>RV-6A finishing
>Tigard, OR
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Safety wire size? |
Listers,
Since there are no holes in the prop attach bolts I didn't realize that you
needed to safetywire the prop attach bolts on a Hartzell contstant speed
prop, although it certainly does make sense. Apparently you wire through the
pins that hold the captive bolts on. Question: what size wire... .032 or
.041? Also, for general purpose safetywiring, what size are most of you
using?
Thanks!
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, systems
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com> |
| Subject: | Prop Pitch Question |
5.0.3 (Intl)|21 March 2000) at 01/22/2001 11:34:58 AM
I have a question for anyone running a Sensenich fixed pitch metal 72FM
series prop on a 180 hp engine. If you go with Van's catalog recommended
pitch for the various RV models will you achieve 2700 rpm in full-throttle,
level flight? Is this what the pitch recommendations are based on?
I have seen quite a variety of different degrees of pitch on various RV's.
I've flown some with a guy who's running only 81" of pitch on his 6A and of
course it climbs great but I'm not sure how it would compare to an 83" or
85" prop. Brian Denk told me off-list that his 83" on his RV-8 climbs well
at his higher altitudes but he can exceed 2700 rpm in level flight. I've
also talked to a guy with an RV-6 running 86" and another guy with an -8
running 87" (he was more interested in cruise performance). Seems maybe
85" would be about ideal for my -8A.
Interested in comments from anyone flying the 180 hp/ 72FM combo.
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A skinning the fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | New RV6A web page..!!! |
If you go to http://translator.go.com/ and
supply the original web page address: www.haveaplace.com/estrada
<http://www.haveaplace.com/estrada> the web page will be translated in real
time for you. My Spanish is non-existant!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Ervin [mailto:bjervin(at)home.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2001 3:38 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: New RV6A web page..!!!
Nice Web page Daniel, My Espanol is no bueno horita, pero,
yo puede leo
con un dicionerio. Its really tough to write in spanish
without all
the letters of the Spanish Alphabet and my verb conjugation
sucks. :-)
Happy Building
Bill
RV-6 Fuse
Spokane WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Placards for throttle quadrant? |
Listers,
To those who have been through their inspections: are placards required for
the 3 lever throttle quadrant? What have your inspectors said about this?
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, final systems
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Safety wire size? |
Randy,
The Hartzell manual that came with your prop calls out 0.041. However, it
is very difficult to use, so I would suggest 0.032. One A&P gave me a good
tip: He routes the wire through the difficult pins with the bolts
UNTORQUED, and then torques them after the wire is wrapped around the
pair -- this makes for nice tight, A&P school quality safety wiring. I
strongly recommend the SnapOn open end wrench with the serrations for the
prop bolts -- ordinary open ends tend to slip or spread when torquing to
limits.
It turns out that the SnapOn wrench is exactly the length of my torque
wrench. I put a bolt with fender washers through the box-end end and then a
socket on the torque wrench and set the wrench to click at one-half the
torque setting. It is a sort of long crows foot. It is very difficult to
find a standard crows foot that will fit those heads!
The rule of thumb is to use the largest wire that will fit through the hole.
Many times this results in a difficult wiring job so be guided by common
sense.
By the way, the best tool I bought for safety wiring was a Mac
two-directional twister. It is a pain to hand twist the wires when you have
to wrap in the opposite direction that the twister goes!
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 34 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy Lervold <randy@rv-8.com>
Date: Monday, January 22, 2001 12:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: Safety wire size?
>
>Listers,
>
>Since there are no holes in the prop attach bolts I didn't realize that you
>needed to safetywire the prop attach bolts on a Hartzell contstant speed
>prop, although it certainly does make sense. Apparently you wire through
the
>pins that hold the captive bolts on. Question: what size wire... .032 or
>.041? Also, for general purpose safetywiring, what size are most of you
>using?
>
>Thanks!
>Randy Lervold
>RV-8, #80500, systems
>www.rv-8.com
>Home Wing VAF
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Safety wire size? |
Randy,
General safety wiring .032, Hartzell prop bolts .041. Just my opinion from
watching A&P's doing it.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hrs. TT
O-320, Hartzell C/S
RV-6, Fuselage
O-360, Hartzell C/S
pat_hatch(at)msn.com
>
> Listers,
>
> Since there are no holes in the prop attach bolts I didn't realize that
you
> needed to safetywire the prop attach bolts on a Hartzell contstant speed
> prop, although it certainly does make sense. Apparently you wire through
the
> pins that hold the captive bolts on. Question: what size wire... .032 or
> .041? Also, for general purpose safetywiring, what size are most of you
> using?
>
> Thanks!
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, #80500, systems
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop Pitch Question |
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
01/22/2001 12:53:24 PM
>I have a question for anyone running a Sensenich fixed pitch metal 72FM
>series prop on a 180 hp engine. If you go with Van's catalog recommended
>pitch for the various RV models will you achieve 2700 rpm in
full-throttle,
>level flight? Is this what the pitch recommendations are based on?
Mark,
I actually ordered the 83" pitch on my Sensenich and was told by the
(Sensenich) factory that they had done extensive testing on the RV-8(A)
series and had decided that the optimum over all pitch taking into account
cruise and climb performance was 85". This is what they sent me and so
this summer this is what I'll be using.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( fiberglass and more fiberglass )
O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Safety wire size? |
Randy,
.041
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Flap Setting 42 degrees- Help, I got 34 degrees |
01/22/2001 02:08:49 PM
Help, Can any RV drivers shed any light why I can't get any more then 34
degrees flap deflection on my RV-4 (with Elect. flaps ?) I got the factory
elect. flap kit and the factory weldments....installed per drawings.
Actually & get 36 degrees drop when fully deflected & I am guessing at a 2
degree giveback due to wind and flight loads when deployed.........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Riley <richard(at)riley.net> |
I'm selling an O-320-E2D that's just come out of the engine shop, 0 SMOH.
Overhaul by Performance Aero in Pomona.
The engine is first run. Painted Ferrari red, all new hardware, chrome
intakes and valve covers. 9.3:1 compression with LyCon pistons, Lycon
porting on the heads, apx. 180 hp. (note - 9:1 pistons alone give you 170
hp, and LyCon guarantees their porting to be worth 3-4 hp per cyl.)
New Bendex mags and harness, accy case set up for a fuel pump. All moving
parts balanced, no expense spared on the rebuild. No induction system or
mechanical fuel pump installed, in case you want to inject it, but a
working carb is included. Photos available by email. $18,000.
Richard Riley
Renaissance Composites
3025 Airport Ave
Santa Monica, CA 90405
310.391.1943
www.berkut.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop Pitch Question |
01/22/2001 02:55:40 PM
The prop blade is like a air plane wing in that there is a specific airfoil
shape. There appears to be NO consensious or agreement between the various
prop makers (or carvers) WHERE along the chord of the prop blade to measure
the bite(pitch). This area along the cord (station) can be most anywhere
from what I've seen. No intentional mischief here, more of a lack of
specific engineering data where to measure the bite of the prop. This
coupled with the myriad of prop (blade) designs further compounds this
variance if pitches. The only constant I've been able to ascertain is that
WITH-IN a manafacture, say Sensenich, I CAN make sence of the pitch numbers
when I focus on the 180 or 160 HP RV prop. Its when I try to compair
.....say a Sensenich 72xxx83 prop with a (Colin-Walker,Prince,Amar,
Bernie W), 72xxx83 prop...I find I can't make a direct compairson.
Also, engine condition makes a B I G difference when compairing
props..........
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: RV-List: Prop
Pitch Question
ronics.com
01/22/2001 12:28 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
I have a question for anyone running a Sensenich fixed pitch metal 72FM
series prop on a 180 hp engine. If you go with Van's catalog recommended
pitch for the various RV models will you achieve 2700 rpm in full-throttle,
level flight? Is this what the pitch recommendations are based on?
I have seen quite a variety of different degrees of pitch on various RV's.
I've flown some with a guy who's running only 81" of pitch on his 6A and of
course it climbs great but I'm not sure how it would compare to an 83" or
85" prop. Brian Denk told me off-list that his 83" on his RV-8 climbs well
at his higher altitudes but he can exceed 2700 rpm in level flight. I've
also talked to a guy with an RV-6 running 86" and another guy with an -8
running 87" (he was more interested in cruise performance). Seems maybe
85" would be about ideal for my -8A.
Interested in comments from anyone flying the 180 hp/ 72FM combo.
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A skinning the fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Monty Barrett |
01/22/2001 02:59:47 PM
Is Monty in your Yeller pages ???? If not Here is the link from a
poster.....
"Doug Rozendaal"
To:
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: Re: RV-List: Monty
Barrett
ronics.com
01/21/2001 06:56 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
http://www.bpaengines.com/
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com\dougr
>
> Does any one have Monty Barretts phone # Or location>Thanks Terry B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop Pitch Question |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>I have a question for anyone running a Sensenich fixed pitch metal 72FM
>series prop on a 180 hp engine. If you go with Van's catalog recommended
>pitch for the various RV models will you achieve 2700 rpm in full-throttle,
>level flight? Is this what the pitch recommendations are based on?
>
I have a 72FM8 83 inch pitch and an O-360 on an RV-6. I can exceed 2700
rpm in level flight up to around 13,000 or 14,000 feeet MSL or so,
depending on conditions. That is not necessarily a bad thing. Along
with the climb benefits, it allows me to cruise at 17,500 MSL at around
165 knots.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Safety wire size? |
>>
>Listers,
>
>Since there are no holes in the prop attach bolts I didn't realize that you
>needed to safetywire the prop attach bolts on a Hartzell contstant speed
>prop, although it certainly does make sense. Apparently you wire through
>the
>pins that hold the captive bolts on. Question: what size wire... .032 or
>.041? Also, for general purpose safetywiring, what size are most of you
>using?
>
>Thanks!
>Randy Lervold
>RV-8, #80500, systems
>www.rv-8.com
Randy,
I use the .041" on my prop bolts for the fixed pitch Sensenich. The holes
in the bolt head were plenty large enough. I use the .032" for most general
safetying of smaller fittings. I bought pound cans of each size and they
will probably last quite a while.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
163 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon Giger <giger(at)bmi.net> |
| Subject: | compass interference |
I've heard about using little 12v fans for defrost,sounds like a
good idea.I have my compass in the panel,will the fan interfer with it? if
so what is everybody else doing?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ventilation rv-4 |
>The Naca vent on the RV-4 should be mounted on the fuselage side forward of
>the wing leading edge. The ones on the canopy skirt didn't work very well
>as they are in the low-pressure area over the wing.
They are also in the high pressure area of letting water in............
Canopy skirts should not be used for the NACA vents. IMHO.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: compass interference |
Those little Computer pancake fans have permanent magnet motors. Could be a
problem.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon Giger" <giger(at)bmi.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 23, 1983 2:36 PM
Subject: RV-List: compass interference
>
> I've heard about using little 12v fans for defrost,sounds like
a
> good idea.I have my compass in the panel,will the fan interfer with it? if
> so what is everybody else doing?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Oil temp transducer - torque |
Listers,
Can someone tell me the torque value on the oil temperature transducer.
I have an O360-A1A with oil filter adaptor into which (I believe) the
transducer screws. It has a crush washer, so I don't want to "wing it."
I'll appreciate your help as I have spent way too many hours looking
through this maze of documentation. The overhaul manual has just about
everything but this subject.
Thanks,
Tom Barnes -6 O360 C/S, Lasar, VM-1000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Safety wire size? |
Randy,
My Hartzell Owners Manual with Revision 6 of September 2000 specifies .032
Stanless Steel Aircraft wire. This is on page 303 Rev. 5. Jan/99
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rv 6 kit for sale |
In a message dated 1/22/01 8:16:27 AM Eastern Standard Time,
plaurencepc(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
> I am selling my RV6 kit. A great price! Will be starting the RV9.
>
> Tail feathers completed. Left wing 80% done.
> For more details, e-mail me off line.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: noise (was Audio Amplifier) |
snip
> >>
>
> Okay, I have some new data that will get the ball rolling in talking
> intelligently about RV sound levels. FYI, my sound meter is available to
> anyone wanting to measure their particular plane, you keep it for about a
> week and pay postage both ways. I went out today to get cheap fuel at Rio
> Vista, CA and on the way I took my Quest Model 211FS Sound Meter. I
> calibrated the meter prior to departure in the hangar using the supplied
> optional 110 dB sound source. All data was taken using the dBA scale
> (approximates human hearing response curve), the meter speed on slow (for
> capturing continuous acoustic noise), sans filter, mic facing forward, at ear
> level, centered transversely in the cabin, with all vents closed and radio
> speaker turned off. I stripped butt naked (as Terry Jantzi did for his high
> attitude record shot) so that my clothing would not affect the readings (just
> kidding). The aircraft is an RV-6A slider w/O-360-A1A, Vetterman crossover
> exhaust, Hartzell C/S, Cleaveland upholstery, Rubitex floor pads, carpeting,
> 3/4" Soundcoat HT polyimide foam on the inside firewall and 1/4" EAR C-3202
> closed cell vinyl damping foam on the tail cone skins.
>
> It would be interesting if someone had a portable spectrum analyzer, as my
> empirical observation (based on my recollection of the last time I was in a
> C152) is that the frequency band experienced in the RV cabin is higher.
>
> The following sound readings were taken:
>
> Idle (700-1000 rpm) 80-82 dBA
> Taxi (700-1000 rpm) 80-82 dBA
> Climb (2500-2650 rpm @ 500-3500 ft MSL) 98-100 dBA
> Cruise (23.5 inHg, 2350 rpm @ 3500 ft MSL) 93-95 dBA
> Descent (20.0 inHg, 2250 rpm @ 3000 ft MSL) 90-94 dBA
>
> BTW, I wear Lightspeed 25XLs (which I believe are rated at 40 dBA reduction)
> so my ear holes are right at 55 dBA in cruise, which you could stand forever.
> By contrast, the noise level in my Jeep Grand Cherokee with 4.7L V-8 on the
> way home was 70 dBA at 70 mph, but it is definitely in a lower frequency band.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
GV & others who are interested,
In one of my former lives, I did things like design &
operate concert sound systems. Being concerned with still
having some hearing left when that life ended, I did some
research into what causes hearing loss & did a little
playing around with dB meters & real time audio analyzers.
Disclaimer: I'm not a scientist or engineer, so if better
minds can correct me, please do.
If memory serves, the weighting curves on dB meters were
originally intended (as GV indicates) to represent human
hearing sensitivity under various conditions. Please correct
me if I'm having a Reagan moment, but I believe that the A
curve defines the average threshold of hearing at various
frequencies.
http://www.yale.edu/dramat/sound/soundbas.html
& scroll down to 'How You Hear'
This does NOT mean that the threshold of damage
will follow that curve.
Noise induced hearing damage starts in the 3khz to 4khz
range because the sensing cells in your ear for that range
get hit first by ANY frequency of noise, not just 3khz to
4khz. Visualize your inner ear as a 'chambered nautilus'
lined with tiny hairs & filled with liquid, into which you
are shooting vibrating BB's. It doesn't matter what
frequency the BB's vibrate at, the first place they hit
takes the most abuse, absorbing most of the energy before
they bounce into the spiral & reach the section which can
actually detect that particular frequency of vibration. The
shock waves (BB's) actually shear off some of the hairs if
the energy is high enough.
If you are worried about hearing damage, you should leave
all weighting curves OFF when you make sound level
measurements.
(And it would be a good idea to pitch a fit at OSHA & other
regulating bodies for allowing a weighting curve to be used
when checking for damaging noise levels.)
BTW, there are lots of software spectrum analyzers available
for home computers. If you have a cassette recorder with
reasonably
good frequency response you can get a rather poor idea of
the
spectrum by recording a little & feeding it into the sound
card in
your computer.
On the subject of sound insulation: years ago a couple of
companies (I wish I could remember who) were doing research
on active noise canceling in autos. They started with a very
expensive British luxury car & measured sound levels, then
stripped out many pounds of sound deadening material &
measured again. Almost no difference. Sealing air leaks did
more good.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
> > You know...I received that email about 5 times from someone I did not
> > know....so I never opened the exe file.............
> Ditto Bill! I have also received several with a "hahaha" title which I
>also deleted...........
Anyone who is connecting to the Internet without both a fire wall and an
anti virus program is putting their computer and personal information at
great risk. You should have programs that you can frequently update. I
sometimes get one alert a day. Today: from 'hahaha' with the subject "Snow
White...the real story" virus. My anti virus program found it immediately,
told me about it and quarantined it without further problems. There area a
lot of snakes out there.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Safety wire size? |
Randy,
Use .032 wire through the roll pins. .042 is too large and .020 will break
too easily. You may find that you will need to clean out the holes in the
roll pins as some overhaul shops put a dab of glue/sealent on the pins. I
think you will find that 99% of your safety wire needs wil be .032.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
18.7 hours and running cool
>From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Safety wire size?
>Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 09:34:49 -0800
>
>
>Listers,
>
>Since there are no holes in the prop attach bolts I didn't realize that you
>needed to safetywire the prop attach bolts on a Hartzell contstant speed
>prop, although it certainly does make sense. Apparently you wire through
>the
>pins that hold the captive bolts on. Question: what size wire... .032 or
>.041? Also, for general purpose safetywiring, what size are most of you
>using?
>
>Thanks!
>Randy Lervold
>RV-8, #80500, systems
>www.rv-8.com
>Home Wing VAF
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Placards for throttle quadrant? |
Randy,
If your inspector is sharp he will require placards for the throttle levers.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Placards for throttle quadrant?
>Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 09:45:49 -0800
>
>
>Listers,
>
>To those who have been through their inspections: are placards required for
>the 3 lever throttle quadrant? What have your inspectors said about this?
>
>Thanks,
>Randy Lervold
>RV-8, #80500, final systems
>www.rv-8.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Hobenshield <edhob(at)kermode.net> |
| Subject: | Re: auto starters on O-320 |
>
>Guys I think Mark Landoll's complete unit uses some sort of automotive
>starter the whole works for about $200.00 bucks includes starter and mount.
>
I got one, Is a Datsun 280Z geared starter I think. Works well. Also
bought his alt. and once was able to repair the hole in the cowl (
Its tight and I didnt allow for any extra room ) it also has
performed well. At the time - 1997 - it seemed the best deal and I
have no regrets to the products. I must say that Mr. Landoll was some
what concerned at the time, over payment, as he requested payment in
advance.
It all worked out for boyh of us and I must say I have never regreted
the choice.
Ed H.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
That virus corrupted my Windows system directory, and is the one that caused
me to lose my desktop files, including my builder's log. My Norton
Antivirus won't clean it, either. It's a nasty one! Be careful. If you
see a mesage from hahaha, delete it immediately!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Sweemer" <teetimeah64(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2001 4:58 PM
Subject: RV-List: virus alert
>
> Hey everyone,
> That msg with the subject "snow white and the 7 dwarfs" has a virus on the
> attachment! BE CAREFUL!
>
> Tim
> RV4 builder
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron stiffeners? |
In my wing kit I have what I thought were aileron stiffeners. However, due
to my extreme attention to detail, I noticed that they seemed a bit on the
thin side. Further investigation proved that the stiffeners are to be made
out of .025 aluminum and mine is more like .016 That's about half the
required thickness and it's quite noticeable in stiffness. What is this
thin stuff for? Did the older wing kits come with thinner stiffeners on the
ailerons?
Bill
-4 wings, delays after delays after delays.....grrrrrr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
| Subject: | Re: Safety wire size? |
Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
> By the way, the best tool I bought for safety wiring was a <>
> two-directional twister. It is a pain to hand twist the wires when you have
> to wrap in the opposite direction that the twister goes!
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 34 hours
>
I always knew that Mac's were better than PC's.
Boyd
N600SS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Wiring schematic for a Narco Mk12B needed |
Hi folks,
A few days ago, I was given an old Narco Mk 12B radio. It didn't come
with a harness (other than that which is attached to the radio), power
supply or CDI head. Local RV-6A builder Peter Laurence offered to take
it over to a friend's avionics shop (Avionics Masters at FXE) for
testing. Amazingly, it works great!!! :-) I figure I can use an old PC
computer power supply to convert my shop 110 volt AC to 12 volts DC.
Does anyone out there have a schematic for wiring this thing. I'd
like to set this up in my shop as a base unit to listen to local airport
towers. (I need building motivation right now) Can anyone help?
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A fuselage
Boca Raton, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron stiffeners? |
Bill - Back in 1993 when I started my RV-6, the standard for stiffeners was
.016". You can use the thinner stiffeners without any cause for alarm. The
only reason that Van switched to heavier stiffeners was to make it easier
for the builder to get a straighter rivet job. I got that info directly from
Van at an inhouse builders class.
I switched to the heavier stiffener and still have my original stack of
.016" stiffeners. Anybody want them?
I will eventually finish my RV-6 even though it has been along time in the
shop. I'm working on the paint and upholstery right now.
Douglas G. Murray
Southern Alberta
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Monday, January 22, 2001 8:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: Aileron stiffeners?
>
> In my wing kit I have what I thought were aileron stiffeners. However,
due
> to my extreme attention to detail, I noticed that they seemed a bit on the
> thin side. Further investigation proved that the stiffeners are to be
made
> out of .025 aluminum and mine is more like .016 That's about half the
> required thickness and it's quite noticeable in stiffness. What is this
> thin stuff for? Did the older wing kits come with thinner stiffeners on
the
> ailerons?
>
> Bill
> -4 wings, delays after delays after delays.....grrrrrr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Tip Up Canopy Instrument panel |
I've been laying out my instrument panel and have created a prototype
out of 1/8" acetate. Since I had removed the canopy frame before
temporarily installing the instruments in the protoype panel, I didn't
notice that the location of the G-meter, just above the canopy deck
attach point for the instrument panel, interferes with the Wd 616
channel when opening the canopy.
Since I really like the layout of the prototype panel, I'm wondering if
anyone on the list has modified the Wd 616 channel to accomodate an
instrument located on the extreme left or right of the panel. The only
thing I can think of would require that about 2" of the inner portion
of the channel be removed. If needed, a piece of angle could be added
to triangulate the corner to add any rigidity that might be lost.
Any comments would be welcome.
John Warren
RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Safety wire size? |
Ross,
Thanks for the catch. Even though my whole manual is Rev. g, Jan/99, I do
have the same page 303. It isn't specifically referenced however until page
316 where the K flange props are described, section E, point (5). That first
reference threw me, I thought they were referring to the spinner.
Thanks!
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Monday, January 22, 2001 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Safety wire size?
>
> Randy,
>
> My Hartzell Owners Manual with Revision 6 of September 2000 specifies .032
> Stanless Steel Aircraft wire. This is on page 303 Rev. 5. Jan/99
>
> Ross
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Baldwin" <n728p(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 PTT Switch |
Glenn,
I drilled a hole on the left side of the pilots stick , and the right side
of the co-pilot stick. Both holes are at the base of the stick . I picked up
a couple of very small grommets at the hardware store (in the lamp repair
section ). The stick movement causes very little movement of the wires
exciting the sticks.
Scott Baldwin
RV-6 N728p
0360 F/P Sensenich
>From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list
>Subject: RV-List: RV-6 PTT Switch
>Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 10:18:00 -0600
>
>
>Hi,
>I am wiring up the Push to talk switches into the sticks on my RV-6
>project. I am curious as to whether other builders have been (a)exiting
>the PTT wires out of the bottom of the stick weldment between the two
>bearing rod ends OR (b) exiting the PTT wires through a grommeted hold
>drilled somewhere on the stick, (if so, where? front, back, left side,
>right side?)
>
>Thanks,
>-Glenn Gordon
>N442E reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tip Up Canopy Instrument panel |
A builder here has done just this but in the middle of the panel. I am
planning on doing the same thing. He cut the flange and about 3/4" of the
web of the channel and reinforced with 3/4" angle facing forward. In this
way he was able to raise his radio stack.
Ross
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 8:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: Tip Up Canopy Instrument panel
>
> I've been laying out my instrument panel and have created a prototype
> out of 1/8" acetate. Since I had removed the canopy frame before
> temporarily installing the instruments in the protoype panel, I didn't
> notice that the location of the G-meter, just above the canopy deck
> attach point for the instrument panel, interferes with the Wd 616
> channel when opening the canopy.
>
> Since I really like the layout of the prototype panel, I'm wondering if
> anyone on the list has modified the Wd 616 channel to accomodate an
> instrument located on the extreme left or right of the panel. The only
> thing I can think of would require that about 2" of the inner portion
> of the channel be removed. If needed, a piece of angle could be added
> to triangulate the corner to add any rigidity that might be lost.
>
> Any comments would be welcome.
>
> John Warren
> RV-6Q
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring schematic for a Narco Mk12B needed |
>Does anyone out there have a schematic for wiring this thing.
Narco's phone number is 800-223-3636
They are very helpful. I called them today and they faxed me the
pin out for my AT 150. No problem...
Larry Olson
Cave Creek, AZ
RV6 wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Horizontal Stab Misalignment |
Hello List,
I just finished mounting my Horizontal Stab and somewhere I mis-measured.
The HS is centered on the rear deck however when I measure from the HS tips
to a centerline point on the forward fuselage, I'm off by approx. 3/4". The
holes are already drilled and HS is bolted on. How bad is this screw up?
Time to order a new HS?
Thanks for any input or advise.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Simpson <airtime(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Hall of Shame, Titanium Ti-downs, and other stuff... |
Hi fellow RV-Listers,
I've been lurking on the list, feeling guilty for not contributing any $$$
to the matronics fundraiser drive YET this year. This list has been very
good to me (and my Ti-down business).
The fundraiser happened at the worst time for me, as I'd just spent all the
money I had (and more) on 3000+ lbs of coiled Titanium rod, and much more
$$$ for a new Titanium straightner machine I made.
I knew I could make up for not contributing when I got back in production
of the Ti-downs.
I'm back in production now (and have 30+ sets/kits in stock now), and
pledge $100 from my next two orders. Thanks again Matt, for hosting this list.
Titanium "Ti-down" stuff:
Money is still tight around here (my wife still hasn't found a job *bleah*,
but she will soon, hopefully), so to stimulate sales, I'll extend the
special RV-list deal I had last fall.
Here's the deal...$10 off the already $10 RV-List discount, for the rest of
January and Febuary. Past Ti-down customers can reduce the price by $10 more.
I've changed my pricing a some. The four coil sets and kits are now the
same price as the five coil ones (they both require the exact ammt. of work
to make).
The standard 5/16" "sets" with the winter discount are $60, fully polished,
and the "kits" are $70. (past customers reduce that by $10, respectively)
The custom bags that are included in the "kits" are available in 9
different colors now (red being the newest color).
http://www.airtimemfg.com/Images/9colors.jpg
Other Stuff:
Many of my RV Ti-down customers have asked if I could make the Tie-down
rings that screw into the RV wings out of Titanium. I have purchased some
Titanium Rod for that purpose, and will be rolling the threads on my best
friends Swiss Tornos cnc machine.
I'll be making some prototypes in the near future, and hopefully will be
able to offer them at a reasonable price.
I attended the last two Home Wing meetings (december at Vans RV factory,
and january at RV-Lister Randy Lervold's home (www.rv-8.com). That sure is
a great group of guys! (and Randy, your rv-8 is AWESOME!) I met the plane
god himself (Van), and he now has a Ti-down kit for himself (he chose the
electric blue bag, after much consideration *smile*), and may offer the
Ti-downs in the Van's catalog in the future.
That's enough verbage for now...
Happy flying!
Sincerely,
Randy Simpson
Airtime Mfg.
http://www.airtimemfg.com
Carrera Ultralight flyer
RV flyer wannabe...dreaming right now...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon Robertson <gordon(at)safemail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Fuselage Fixture |
Hi folks,
I am starting the fuselage fixture for my RV-8. Since my shop is a
little restricted in length, I am wondering how much clearance should I
leave at the rear end of the fixture to accommodate tail-feathers etc.
in the future? I am planning on a maximum of 2 feet from the back
wall. Is this enough? Can I reduce it to 1 foot?
thanks
Gordon Robertson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rpflanze(at)iquest.net |
| Subject: | Re: Hall of Shame, Titanium Ti-downs, and other stuff... |
I know that many folks on the List use Randy's tiedowns (including me). If you
are already flying or you think you might fly some day, and you don't already
have a pair, I encourage you to get a set. They are totally awesome and worth
every penny, especially at the discounted price!
I took a set of doggie stakes to AirVenture this past year because Randy was
temporarily out of stock. I twisted the head off of one of the stakes as I
tried to twist it into the hard Wisconsin soil. That was a waste of time and
money.
So I got a set as soon as they became available. Randy's a good guy and his
product is all it's purported to be.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (115 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Horizontal Stab Misalignment |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Horizontal Stab Misalignment
Thread-Index: AcCFDphjyXMrCKY7SteJaJhw5hQDXQAOSnAw
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Eric,
I'd say leave it the way it is. It shouldn't be a problem; you'll
probably never notice a degradation in flying qualities. I have a
little bit of twist in my HS and can't tell.
There are plenty of awfully constructed airplanes out there that fly
straight.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ENewton57(at)AOL.COM [mailto:ENewton57(at)AOL.COM]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 1:42 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Horizontal Stab Misalignment
>
>
>
>
> Hello List,
> I just finished mounting my Horizontal Stab and somewhere I
> mis-measured.
> The HS is centered on the rear deck however when I measure
> from the HS tips
> to a centerline point on the forward fuselage, I'm off by
> approx. 3/4". The
> holes are already drilled and HS is bolted on. How bad is
> this screw up?
> Time to order a new HS?
> Thanks for any input or advise.
>
> Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
> RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage)
> http://www.ericsrv6a.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: need an engine |
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
I am 65 and can earn as much as I like without hurting the Social
Security benefits.
Cecil
writes:
>
>
> I need ideas from my fellow builders as to how I can get an
> engine and
> prop. The problem is that I don't have the money and am on a fixed
> income.
> Everything else is pretty much built on my RV4. However, I do have
> time on
> my hands. I am retired but if I go out and make more than a little
> bit of
> money I start losing Social Security benefits.
> Is there any way anyone knows how I can work (on my computer or
>
> otherwise) for someone in trade for an engine and prop. Any ideas?
>
> Tim Sweemer
> RV4 builder
> Ogden, Ks
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Fuselage Fixture |
Gordon,
Leave the extra room in the front. All you need in the back is just enough
room to get around the jig. The tail goes on long after the jig is gone.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (systems)
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gordon Robertson
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 8:34 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Fuselage Fixture
Hi folks,
I am starting the fuselage fixture for my RV-8. Since my shop is a
little restricted in length, I am wondering how much clearance should I
leave at the rear end of the fixture to accommodate tail-feathers etc.
in the future? I am planning on a maximum of 2 feet from the back
wall. Is this enough? Can I reduce it to 1 foot?
thanks
Gordon Robertson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Location of the rudder cable holes in the F-804 |
Listers,
Yesterday as I was working on all the fuselage bulkheads, I started
laying out all the holes in the F-804A & B. I noticed that my 2+ year
old blueprint for this part specifies that the rudder pedal pass through
holes be located 3 1/8" inboard from the upper flange edge. I compared
this to my newer electrical wiring (part of the optional wiring kit)
print. The wiring print shows these holes being located slightly more
outboard. Since the rudder holes aren't electrically related, no actual
dimensions are listed on this print for them. I also seem to remember
several listers commenting on having their rudder cables chafing on
these holes. Has there been a revision relating to the location of these
(or any other) holes?
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A fuselage bulkheads
Boca Raton, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Location of the rudder cable holes in the F-804 |
Listers,
Yesterday as I was working on all the fuselage bulkheads, I started
laying out all the holes in the F-804A & B. I noticed that my 2+ year
old blueprint for this part specifies that the rudder pedal pass through
holes be located 3 1/8" inboard from the upper flange edge. I compared
this to my newer electrical wiring (part of the optional wiring kit)
print. The wiring print shows these holes being located slightly more
outboard. Since the rudder holes aren't electrically related, no actual
dimensions are listed on this print for them. I also seem to remember
several listers commenting on having their rudder cables chafing on
these holes. Has there been a revision relating to the location of these
(or any other) holes?
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A fuselage bulkheads
Boca Raton, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Horizontal Stab Misalignment |
Shim the short side to bring it forward...You probably wont' be able to make
up 3/4" but you can get close. I wouldn't sweat it though....I was sweating
about my left wing being swept forward 1/4"...Van's told me to deal with
it...very small inaccuracies are going to be in the airplane. Other factors
such as slight fuselage twist, hs twist, wing twist, etc will all work into
the equation. Since it is next to impossible to know what and where is off
from these slight idiosyncrasies, I say go with it, and make some
adjustments on the wings after it's flying. Still, I would contact Van's
for the final answer.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: <ENewton57(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Monday, January 22, 2001 11:41 PM
Subject: RV-List: Horizontal Stab Misalignment
>
>
> Hello List,
> I just finished mounting my Horizontal Stab and somewhere I mis-measured.
> The HS is centered on the rear deck however when I measure from the HS
tips
> to a centerline point on the forward fuselage, I'm off by approx. 3/4".
The
> holes are already drilled and HS is bolted on. How bad is this screw up?
> Time to order a new HS?
> Thanks for any input or advise.
>
> Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
> RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage)
> http://www.ericsrv6a.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Location of the rudder cable holes in the F-804 |
Charles,
You are correct, a revision was put out to change the location of the holes
for the 8A. If memory serves me, this was in an issue of the RVATOR.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (systems_
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 10:23 AM
Subject: RV-List: Location of the rudder cable holes in the F-804
Listers,
Yesterday as I was working on all the fuselage bulkheads, I started
laying out all the holes in the F-804A & B. I noticed that my 2+ year
old blueprint for this part specifies that the rudder pedal pass through
holes be located 3 1/8" inboard from the upper flange edge. I compared
this to my newer electrical wiring (part of the optional wiring kit)
print. The wiring print shows these holes being located slightly more
outboard. Since the rudder holes aren't electrically related, no actual
dimensions are listed on this print for them. I also seem to remember
several listers commenting on having their rudder cables chafing on
these holes. Has there been a revision relating to the location of these
(or any other) holes?
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A fuselage bulkheads
Boca Raton, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hall of Shame, Titanium Ti-downs, and other stuff... |
> I met the plane god himself (Van), and he now has a Ti-down kit for
himself (he chose the
> electric blue bag, after much consideration *smile*), and may offer the
> Ti-downs in the Van's catalog in the future.
I hope you charged him full price!
do no archive
Randy Lervold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: Safety wire size? |
I used .025 saftey wire on my cowling pins ,one of the wires broke and
the pin was working its way out toward my wood prop . I found it on a
preflight replaced all 4 with .032. I thought .025 was easier to work
with, NEVER AGAIN !!! Bob Murphy 282EM Poplar Grove ILL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Horizontal Stab Misalignment |
Not a problem at all. I was told that one of Van's demos had the HS mounted
one whole inch too low. Don't sweat it, get on with the project.
Measure to a point way forward like the roll bar. I guess you are
measuring from the leading edge of the extreme outside of the aluminum? You
could correct with fiberglass tips one too short and the other too long,
huh? After your first flight tho.
Make a machine that flys and call it a student project!
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Horizontal Stab Misalignment |
>I just finished mounting my Horizontal Stab and somewhere I mis-measured.
>The HS is centered on the rear deck however when I measure from the HS tips
>to a centerline point on the forward fuselage, I'm off by approx. 3/4".
If you want to be reassured, go out to the airport with your tape measure
and look at some of the production airplanes. As you go along in your
building, you will notice other RVs, and pretty much ignore production
airplanes. Go look at some. What you are doing, compared to what the
factories send out will amaze you. NOT that there is anything WRONG with
production airplanes; it is just your level of perfection may be somewhat
higher because it is YOUR airplane, not just another airplane on your
assembly line.
Build away; your airplane will fly just fine. Your horizontal will not know
if one side gets there 3/4 of an inch sooner than the other side.
IMHO
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Fuselage Fixture |
Gordon,
I have about 10 inches in the back of my jig and am almost ready to take it
out of the jig. I have had no problem with this setup so far.
Bill Christie, RV8A, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: Gordon Robertson <gordon(at)safemail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 6:33 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Fuselage Fixture
>
> Hi folks,
>
> I am starting the fuselage fixture for my RV-8. Since my shop is a
> little restricted in length, I am wondering how much clearance should I
> leave at the rear end of the fixture to accommodate tail-feathers etc.
> in the future? I am planning on a maximum of 2 feet from the back
> wall. Is this enough? Can I reduce it to 1 foot?
>
> thanks
>
> Gordon Robertson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM |
WHEN YOU SELL A HOMEBUILT, DOES THE BUILDERS LOG AND PHOTOS GO WITH IT. [
FAA REQUIREMENT ] ? IF SO----WHY?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | re: Horizontal Stabilizer Misalignment |
To all who responded to my question (both off and on line) thanks. It was
pretty much unanimous that I should leave it as is and that it probably
wouldn't affect the flight characteristics
I also called Van's and they said the same thing. The incidence is right and
its level so it will be OK and don't worry about it.
Thanks again for the responses
Eric Newton Long Beach, MS,
RV-6A N57ME (reserved) (Fuselage)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Removing snapped-off screws from Nutplates |
While screwing the bottom fuselage skin to the wings, I think I discovered
why Van doesn't specify #6 screws anywhere. The're too easy to break! I
snapped a couple of 'em off in the nutplates on the wing bottom. I don't
think that'd be possible with #8 screws..
So, since these nutplates are basically inaccessable without removing the
wings (and that isn't gonna happen, no way, no how...), how do I get the
broken off screw shanks out of the nutplates so I can replace the screws?
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuselage to Paint Shop |
| From: | Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com> |
I left this message with your daughter, but I thought I would also E mail
you.
The plan is to load the fuselage on the truck at 10:00 tomorrow morning.
If you
can be here by 0930 that would be great.
Regards,
Tony Castellano
tcastella(at)juno.com
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6 N401TC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelsonhoffrv9(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Removing snapped-off screws from Nutplates |
I haven't pulled out any broken out screws in an rv kit, but I sure have had
my share of pulling out broken off screws, bolts, etc. from the multitude of
old sports cars I've restored. I would say drill a small pilot hole in the
screw and then use an "easy-out" to screw it out. These work with a reverse
kind of thread so they get tighter as you turn to the left which will
ultimately unscrew the stub of the screw. With a small screw like a #6 you
will likely just about remove the whole screw when you drill through it but
that's ok too. The more you remove before you do the easy out sometimes the
better, depending on how tight the screw is. It's possible that once you
start to drill into the screw it could screw itself all the way through the
plate nut and fall out inside the wing. That's probably ok too. Hell I have
had all kinds of broken off pieces of screws and bolts inside my cars. Now
that I think of it, that's why I switched to building a plane.
Curt Hoffman Loveland, OH
RV-9A
Working on Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Removing snapped-off screws from Nutplates |
The method taught me by an A&P to remove sheared tank screws on my C172 was
to drill the sheared screw with a drill that was about 0.008 smaller than
the pitch diameter of the screw. Then the screw sort of collapses into
little chips when you twist in a slightly larger drill bit by hand. He
performed the drilling and it worked great and looked easy. I've not had
the need so I don't know how easy it really is.
Dennis Persyk
-----Original Message-----
From: KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM <KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 8:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: Removing snapped-off screws from Nutplates
>
>
>While screwing the bottom fuselage skin to the wings, I think I discovered
>why Van doesn't specify #6 screws anywhere. The're too easy to break! I
>snapped a couple of 'em off in the nutplates on the wing bottom. I don't
>think that'd be possible with #8 screws..
>
>So, since these nutplates are basically inaccessable without removing the
>wings (and that isn't gonna happen, no way, no how...), how do I get the
>broken off screw shanks out of the nutplates so I can replace the screws?
>
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
>RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Removing snapped-off screws from Nutplates |
I am presuming that the screw that broke off is not a hardened steel
fastener? Part of the trick in getting it out is the ability to drill a
pilot hole down the center of the remaining screw shank. This is one of
those times you might want to use a left handed drill bit to keep the screw
from getting tighter. After that you can use an "Easy-out" to tap into the
drilled hole. You then put a wrench on the easy-out and hopefully you'll be
able to turn out the screw shank.
A word or two of caution here....
The name "Easy-out" is rather misleading. Easy-outs are made from hardened
steel and are rather brittle, especially the small sizes. You have just as
good a chance of breaking the easy-out. The small easy outs are tricky to
use.
Hope this helps.
-Glenn Gordon
> While screwing the bottom fuselage skin to the wings, I think I discovered
> why Van doesn't specify #6 screws anywhere. The're too easy to break! I
> snapped a couple of 'em off in the nutplates on the wing bottom. I don't
> think that'd be possible with #8 screws..
>
> So, since these nutplates are basically inaccessable without removing the
> wings (and that isn't gonna happen, no way, no how...), how do I get the
> broken off screw shanks out of the nutplates so I can replace the screws?
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
> RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage to Paint Shop |
Hi Tony !
Sorry I was late getting that message from my daughter, but
she was in the drunk tank again for the week-end.
Wife may have seen it, but can't speak English that well..(this, after
40 years in the country).
Damn cat never tells me anything that is going on, but if I can catch the
Red-eye out of the West Coast here, maybe I can make it by 9:30, if I can
find Hopewell, and the driver's lingo is any better than wife's....
Austin..
: RV-List: Fuselage to Paint Shop
>
> I left this message with your daughter, but I thought I would also E mail
> you.
> The plan is to load the fuselage on the truck at 10:00 tomorrow morning.
> If you
> can be here by 0930 that would be great.
> Regards,
> Tony Castellano
> tcastella(at)juno.com
> Hopewell Junction, NY
> RV-6 N401TC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Removing snapped-off screws from Nutplates |
Depending upon how much screw is left in the nut plate it is often possible to
carefully drill into
the remaining screw shank with a left hand drill. The drill size you need is the
proper tap drill
for the screw in question. The drilling torque usually removes the remains of the
screw by the time
you have started to drill part way into the remaining fastener. Left hand drills
are readily
available from most good industrial supply houses. (Been there several times. This
actually works)
6-32 use drill #36
8-32 use drill #29
10-32 use drill #21
for a complete list go to www.steco.com/size.html
Bob
Scarborough ON
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mell" <kitplane(at)tradezone.com> |
, ,
| Subject: | First Flight Profile |
Hi,
When it was time for the first flight of our Glasair III, we were lucky
enough to have the assistance of a NAASA test pilot. We came up with a
first flight profile check list that some of you may be able to adapt to
your first flight. Hope it helps.
You can find it at this link.
http://www.kitplaneforum.com/ubb/Forum29/HTML/000001.html
Trip Mellinger
Glasair III
N196G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Norman, M.D." <jnorman(at)yourdoctor.com> |
| Subject: | Removing snapped-off screws from Nutplates |
I have found that dipping the tip of the screw in some oil (motor oil) prior
to screwing it into a nut plat will prevent it from breaking. I do all of my
nut plate screws this way...and don't worry, these dudes aren't coming out
because of a drop of oil!
jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Kelsonhoffrv9(at)AOL.COM
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 9:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Removing snapped-off screws from Nutplates
I haven't pulled out any broken out screws in an rv kit, but I sure have had
my share of pulling out broken off screws, bolts, etc. from the multitude of
old sports cars I've restored. I would say drill a small pilot hole in the
screw and then use an "easy-out" to screw it out. These work with a reverse
kind of thread so they get tighter as you turn to the left which will
ultimately unscrew the stub of the screw. With a small screw like a #6 you
will likely just about remove the whole screw when you drill through it but
that's ok too. The more you remove before you do the easy out sometimes the
better, depending on how tight the screw is. It's possible that once you
start to drill into the screw it could screw itself all the way through the
plate nut and fall out inside the wing. That's probably ok too. Hell I have
had all kinds of broken off pieces of screws and bolts inside my cars. Now
that I think of it, that's why I switched to building a plane.
Curt Hoffman Loveland, OH
RV-9A
Working on Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: BUILDERS LOG |
I'M NOT MAD , I JUST USE CAPS ALL THE TIME. IT SAVES ME SOME TIME. I'M
NOT A FAST TYPER. SORRY MIKE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Alaska trip planning |
-----Original Message-----
From: Eustace Bowhay <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Date: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 8:35 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alaska trip planning
>Hi Bernie:
>
>The summer weather is generally fairly good both inland and along the
coast.
>Winds are usually not a problem especially in an RV, the prevailing winds
>are usually west /northwest getting stronger as summer fades into fall. The
>reason I favor the Alcan route in a wheel equipped single engine VFR
>operation is the greater number of options in the event of any kind of
>emergency or sudden change in the weather. Gary Sobec's post gives a
>detailed summary of almost all the airports and airstrips along with
mileage
>etc. If you missed it I can forward it to you.
>
>About the longest flight between good paved facilities as I recall would be
>between Whitehorse and Northway which is approx. 275 statute miles.
>
>About all you would need would be a recent set of maps either sectional or
>WAC and a Jeppeson or our Canada Flight Supplement.
>
>Regards
>
>Eustace
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Rv660wm(at)aol.com <Rv660wm(at)aol.com>
>To: ebowhay(at)jetstream.net
>Date: Sunday, January 21, 2001 4:52 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Alaska trip planning
>
>
>>In a message dated 1/20/01 10:08:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>>ebowhay(at)jetstream.net writes:
>>
>>> Would be happy to supply more detail for those interested. Please
contact
>me
>>> of the list.
>>>
>>Hi Eustice,
>>
>>Thanks for the input. I had planned to fly the Alcan north. Planning on
>June,
>>folks in Alaska say winds increase in the passes during later summer. Do
>you
>>have any experience on this? What is the longest stretch between airports
>>down the inside passage? Is it really uncomfortable single engine VFR?
>>
>>Do you have any suggestions for best planning aids?
>>
>>TIA
>>Bernie Kerr, 6A SE FLA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: BUILDERS LOG |
>
> WHEN YOU SELL A HOMEBUILT, DOES THE BUILDERS LOG AND PHOTOS GO WITH IT.
> [FAA REQUIREMENT ] ? IF SO----WHY?
This month's RVATOR (fifth issue 2000) has a good article "In The Field" on
providing "software" with the sale of your plane. Van mentions sending all
plans, building manuals, service bulletins to the new owner and sending Vans a
copy of the bill of sale so they can keep track of the new owner. No FAA
requirements are cited.
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Norman, M.D." <jnorman(at)yourdoctor.com> |
The correct way to do that is to use all small letters and NOT all caps. You
gotta speak the language which is being spoken.... thems the rules.
-j
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 11:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: BUILDERS LOG
I'M NOT MAD , I JUST USE CAPS ALL THE TIME. IT SAVES ME SOME TIME. I'M
NOT A FAST TYPER. SORRY MIKE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
NO. You are the builder/manufacturer of the aircraft, and ultimately liable
for it's safety. You keep this data to support your position.
Fred Stucklen
N925RV (1710 hrs/7.5+ Yrs)
E. Windsor, CT 06088
WK Email: stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com
Hm/Travel Email: wstucklen1(at)juno.com
____
From: MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM
Subject: RV-List: BUILDERS LOG
WHEN YOU SELL A HOMEBUILT, DOES THE BUILDERS LOG AND PHOTOS GO
WITH IT. [
FAA REQUIREMENT ] ? IF SO----WHY?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Reiff" <Reiff(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Flying RV-8 with canopy off |
How about removing the canopy and flying the RV-8 "open cockpit? Has
anyone ever tried it? The only thing I saw in the archives was of a
speculative nature.
I assume the speed would have to be kept down to 100 or so. Unlike the
tip ups you would have a windshield but I think turbulence and drag
would be pretty bad at high speed.
Bob Reiff
Reiff Preheat Systems
www.execpc.com/reiff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
I have a complete set of tan seats, side covering, (pannels allready
made up)...new, still in box for $925.00 plus shipping..for an
RV8/8A..can't use right now..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | tailwheel bearings |
I don't understand. With all due respect, replacement bearings are $2.60
from Vans. If they only last 100 hrs. That's an extra $.03 per hour. Not
worth ten minutes of searching or any effort to make up bushings in my
opinion.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Flying RV-8 with canopy off |
I have a friend with a Eurocoupe that does this regularly, I dont see how it
would be much different in an -8, other than you would look cooler.
Kevin
> How about removing the canopy and flying the RV-8 "open cockpit? Has
> anyone ever tried it? The only thing I saw in the archives was of a
> speculative nature.
>
> I assume the speed would have to be kept down to 100 or so. Unlike the
> tip ups you would have a windshield but I think turbulence and drag
> would be pretty bad at high speed.
>
> Bob Reiff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fifth issue 2000 or VR-ator ??? |
01/24/2001 10:57:37 AM
"......This month's RVATOR (fifth issue 2000) has a good article "In The
Field" on
providing "software" with the sale of your plane. Van mentions sending all
plans, building manuals, service bulletins to the new owner and sending
Vans......
A poster referenced the fifth issue of 2000 RV-ator.....Did I miss a joke
or is there indeed a fifth issue ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Hicks <EdHicks(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Location of the rudder cable holes in the F-804 |
>> a revision was put out to change the location of the holes (rudder
cables) for the 8A. If memory serves me, this was in an issue of the
RVATOR.<<
The revision was on page 18 of the fourth issue of 1999 RVator.
For the RV-8A the dimensions (revision 7) are marked 3 23/32" laterally in
from one joint edge of the f-804 sub assy, and 3 11/16" down from the top
edge of f-804 sub assy.
While the dimensions are right, don't trust my description too much. I'm
building a -6, so I'm not familiar with the inner workings of the -8. Check
before you drill :->
Best wishes,
Ed Hicks.
RV-6 QB G-BZRV (Hanging ailerons)
Bristol, UK.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Alaska trip planning |
-----Original Message-----
From: Eustace Bowhay <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Date: Wednesday, January 24, 2001 7:55 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alaska trip planning
>Hi Mell:
>
>I misspelled Gary Sobek's name, check out http://www.sportflight.com/alaska
>
>Eustace
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Mell <kitplane(at)tradezone.com>
>To: ebowhay(at)jetstream.net
>Date: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 11:19 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Alaska trip planning
>
>
>>Hi!
>>
>>Would you mind sending me a copy of Gary Sobec's post. I am also planing
a
>>trip to Alaska myself
>>Thanks! Also, it would be great if it could be posted on
>>http://www.kitplaneforum.com also. Do you think he would mind?
>>
>>Trip Mellinger
>>kitplaneforum.com
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
>>To: "rv list"
>>Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 8:38 PM
>>Subject: Fw: RV-List: Alaska trip planning
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Eustace Bowhay <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
>>> To: Rv660wm(at)aol.com
>>> Date: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 8:35 PM
>>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Alaska trip planning
>>>
>>>
>>> >Hi Bernie:
>>> >
>>> >The summer weather is generally fairly good both inland and along the
>>> coast.
>>> >Winds are usually not a problem especially in an RV, the prevailing
>winds
>>> >are usually west /northwest getting stronger as summer fades into fall.
>>The
>>> >reason I favor the Alcan route in a wheel equipped single engine VFR
>>> >operation is the greater number of options in the event of any kind of
>>> >emergency or sudden change in the weather. Gary Sobec's post gives a
>>> >detailed summary of almost all the airports and airstrips along with
>>> mileage
>>> >etc. If you missed it I can forward it to you.
>>> >
>>> >About the longest flight between good paved facilities as I recall
would
>>be
>>> >between Whitehorse and Northway which is approx. 275 statute miles.
>>> >
>>> >About all you would need would be a recent set of maps either sectional
>>or
>>> >WAC and a Jeppeson or our Canada Flight Supplement.
>>> >
>>> >Regards
>>> >
>>> >Eustace
>>> >-----Original Message-----
>>> >From: Rv660wm(at)aol.com <Rv660wm(at)aol.com>
>>> >To: ebowhay(at)jetstream.net
>>> >Date: Sunday, January 21, 2001 4:52 AM
>>> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Alaska trip planning
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >>In a message dated 1/20/01 10:08:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>>> >>ebowhay(at)jetstream.net writes:
>>> >>
>>> >>> Would be happy to supply more detail for those interested. Please
>>> contact
>>> >me
>>> >>> of the list.
>>> >>>
>>> >>Hi Eustice,
>>> >>
>>> >>Thanks for the input. I had planned to fly the Alcan north. Planning
on
>>> >June,
>>> >>folks in Alaska say winds increase in the passes during later summer.
>Do
>>> >you
>>> >>have any experience on this? What is the longest stretch between
>>airports
>>> >>down the inside passage? Is it really uncomfortable single engine VFR?
>>> >>
>>> >>Do you have any suggestions for best planning aids?
>>> >>
>>> >>TIA
>>> >>Bernie Kerr, 6A SE FLA
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Selling Your Homebuilt |
01/24/2001 11:05:52 AM
reposted for future e-searching. Was Builders Log
"Stucklen, Frederic IFC"
To: "'RV-List'"
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: RV-List: BUILDERS
LOG
ronics.com
01/24/2001 08:31 AM
Please respond to
rv-list
NO. You are the builder/manufacturer of the aircraft, and ultimately liable
for it's safety. You keep this data to support your position.
Fred Stucklen
N925RV (1710 hrs/7.5+ Yrs)
E. Windsor, CT 06088
WK Email: stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com
Hm/Travel Email: wstucklen1(at)juno.com
____
From: MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM
Subject: RV-List: BUILDERS LOG
WHEN YOU SELL A HOMEBUILT, DOES THE BUILDERS LOG AND PHOTOS GO
WITH IT. [
FAA REQUIREMENT ] ? IF SO----WHY?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I came out aft & above the brass bushing, then aft & down to a bundle of
wires going to the wing then through the spar, up the center console & on
to the radio.
Don Jordan RV6A Arlington, Tx
*****************************************
writes:
>
> Hi,
> I am wiring up the Push to talk switches into the sticks on my RV-6
> project. I am curious as to whether other builders have been
> (a)exiting
> the PTT wires out of the bottom of the stick weldment between the
> two
> bearing rod ends OR (b) exiting the PTT wires through a grommeted
> hold
> drilled somewhere on the stick, (if so, where? front, back, left
> side,
> right side?)
>
> Thanks,
> -Glenn Gordon
> N442E reserved
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "<Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com> |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with ESMTP id
for" ;
Wed,
24 Jan 2001 11:19:01.-0500(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | -6 slider question |
01/24/2001 11:19:46 AM
To those who have gone before me, as I look at the rear bows of the canopy
frame, what should be the optimum position for the rear bows in relation to
the rear top skin. Should I be able to run a straight edge flat along the
top skin and just touch the canopy frame the whole way around? I don't have
the canopy yet, I'm ......"..." storing"..."... the canopy frame and all
attatching hardware for a neighbor so they won't take up space in his
garrage. Any hints you guys can share of what your canopy ultimately
required would be apreciated.
Thanks
Eric Henson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Begnaud" <Shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com> |
I'm building a 9A and will soon be forced to choose an engine.
Vans reccomends the 0-320 as the largest engine choice. The new demo has
this engine with a constant speed prop. While the performance is exceptional
with this combo, I really dont want the expense of purchasing a constant
speed prop or the maintenance. But I do want the performance!
Since I fly out of high elevation airports, (in fact I expect to spend 99%
of my flying time above 5000') I was thinking about an 0-360 with a wooden
prop. This combo would be lighter than the 0-320/constant speed combo and it
would certainly be less expensive.
So this raises several questions; first what problems, if any, would this
cause? My guess is that Vans only reccomends the 0-320 to avoid having
pilots exceed VNE. For me this probably would not be a problem because of
the altitudes at which I fly.
Second, could the 0-360 with wood prop come close to matching both
take-off/climb performance and cruise speed performance of the 0-320
constant speed combo?
What else am I missing in this line of thinking?
Thanks for your help.
Cliff
Erie, CO
RV9A N782PC
empennage, wing arrived yesterday
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tailwheel bearings |
> I don't understand. With all due respect, replacement bearings are $2.60
> from Vans. If they only last 100 hrs. That's an extra $.03 per hour.
Not
> worth ten minutes of searching or any effort to make up bushings in my
> opinion.
Might make sense to just make new bearings part of your annual condition
inspection and have them ready in advance. Filling the cavity in the
tailwheel with grease via the zerk fitting makes no sense at all... it just
slings out all over your wheel and rudder.
I may still try to make the Go-Ped billet wheel work, I'll post to the list
if I do. First things first, I need to get this thing FLYING!!
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
Cliff,
Wood props and O-320s are good combinations and would cause no problems.
As to the second questions, you get your pick. As with any fixed prop, you
make a choice. Climb performance or cruise speed but not both. That's what
the extra $4K buys you. :
)
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Cliff Begnaud
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2001 10:44 AM
Subject: RV-List: Engine Choice
I'm building a 9A and will soon be forced to choose an engine.
Vans reccomends the 0-320 as the largest engine choice. The new demo has
this engine with a constant speed prop. While the performance is exceptional
with this combo, I really dont want the expense of purchasing a constant
speed prop or the maintenance. But I do want the performance!
Since I fly out of high elevation airports, (in fact I expect to spend 99%
of my flying time above 5000') I was thinking about an 0-360 with a wooden
prop. This combo would be lighter than the 0-320/constant speed combo and it
would certainly be less expensive.
So this raises several questions; first what problems, if any, would this
cause? My guess is that Vans only reccomends the 0-320 to avoid having
pilots exceed VNE. For me this probably would not be a problem because of
the altitudes at which I fly.
Second, could the 0-360 with wood prop come close to matching both
take-off/climb performance and cruise speed performance of the 0-320
constant speed combo?
What else am I missing in this line of thinking?
Thanks for your help.
Cliff
Erie, CO
RV9A N782PC
empennage, wing arrived yesterday
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Choice |
Spend the money on the 0-360 wood prop combo....get it from Aero Sport Power
and expect pay $15,000....far less than Van's 0-320 price, and just as good
of an engine...
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cliff Begnaud" <Shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2001 9:44 AM
Subject: RV-List: Engine Choice
>
> I'm building a 9A and will soon be forced to choose an engine.
> Vans reccomends the 0-320 as the largest engine choice. The new demo has
> this engine with a constant speed prop. While the performance is
exceptional
> with this combo, I really dont want the expense of purchasing a constant
> speed prop or the maintenance. But I do want the performance!
> Since I fly out of high elevation airports, (in fact I expect to spend 99%
> of my flying time above 5000') I was thinking about an 0-360 with a wooden
> prop. This combo would be lighter than the 0-320/constant speed combo and
it
> would certainly be less expensive.
> So this raises several questions; first what problems, if any, would this
> cause? My guess is that Vans only reccomends the 0-320 to avoid having
> pilots exceed VNE. For me this probably would not be a problem because of
> the altitudes at which I fly.
> Second, could the 0-360 with wood prop come close to matching both
> take-off/climb performance and cruise speed performance of the 0-320
> constant speed combo?
>
> What else am I missing in this line of thinking?
> Thanks for your help.
> Cliff
> Erie, CO
> RV9A N782PC
> empennage, wing arrived yesterday
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Norman, M.D." <jnorman(at)yourdoctor.com> |
| Subject: | Painting the Plane: Alodine or just scuff, prime and paint? |
What type of primer do the Listers recommend for the OUTSIDE of the plane
prior to painting the color coats?
Does everybody Alodine, then prime, then paint? Or, is it ok to just scuff
with Scotchbright pads, prime with epoxy primer (or some other product),
then color with polyurathane (or some other product)? Funny, none of the
bodyshops around here can tell me, and our local airport is still using Zink
Chromate on the outside (outdated??).
Best I can tell is that most of us don't Alodine the skins, just scuff and
paint... Does anybody know of good web sites that describe the process?
thanks
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing antenna wire question |
If you are using RG-58 coaxial cable, the overall outer diameter is .190
inches.
Garth Shearing
75% RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: <Knicholas2(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: January 24, 2001 8:09 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wing antenna wire question
>
> I am working on the wings for my RV9A and plan to run the Bob Archer wing
tip
> ribs for the antenna wires. What size are the antenna wires so I can
drill
> the correct holes for the correct grommets?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bpote <bpote(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Choice |
Cliff, one of the fine gents that ran the RV clas at Sportair siad that if he
had it to do over again, he would not go the inexpensive route of a wooden prop.
They require constantant attention to torquing and re-torquing. I hear that a
lot of guys with a wood prop, carry a torque wrench with them. He said if you
can get away with a standard metal prop, it would be $1800 worth, well spent.
Barry RV9a wings
Cliff Begnaud wrote:
>
> I'm building a 9A and will soon be forced to choose an engine.
> Vans reccomends the 0-320 as the largest engine choice. The new demo has
> this engine with a constant speed prop. While the performance is exceptional
> with this combo, I really dont want the expense of purchasing a constant
> speed prop or the maintenance. But I do want the performance!
> Since I fly out of high elevation airports, (in fact I expect to spend 99%
> of my flying time above 5000') I was thinking about an 0-360 with a wooden
> prop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting the Plane: Alodine or just scuff, prime and paint? |
--- "James Norman, M.D." wrote:
>
>
> What type of primer do the Listers recommend for the OUTSIDE of the
> plane prior to painting the color coats?
That's a can of worms! Work backwards from what paint do you want to
use, then use the primer recommended by that paint manufacturer
(probably their own).
>
> Does everybody Alodine, then prime, then paint?
Would take a hell of a dip tank!
:)
Scrub down the exterior with dishwashing detergent and warm water using
a medium (red) scotchbrite pad. Hose it off and dry, apply desired
(see above) primer within 24 hours (surface corrosion starts forming as
soon as it's dry; the sooner you get primer on it the better).
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Panel
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | wing leading edge rib warp |
After fluting some over, some under (fluting), my leading edge ribs have an
awful warp to them. Is it safe to say that when drilling that one can use
their hand or ... to move them enough to proper alignment? Thanks, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing antenna wire question |
-----Original Message-----
From: pcondon(at)csc.com <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Date: Wednesday, January 24, 2001 1:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing antenna wire question
>
>I used aluminum close-line poles with the ends cut off. Their about .5 inch
>in diameter, made out of aluimun, were 7 feet long, were available on a
>Saturday morning at the hardware store, their so light- my scale can't
>measure the weight, didn't pay 10x the cost of my item on shipping and
>being metal (aluminum) are good RF shields. Installed with adel clamps and
>ran my wire(s) thru them.Work out great,
>
When I ohm out a metal tube mounted by an Adel clamp I find that it is
floating (not grounded). Perhaps you might want to ground the poles at one
end. If you don't they might just re-radiate the RF. Strobe pulses have
fast risetimes, microsecond or so, so they need shielding that covers them
with non-shielded lengths no greater than a inch or so for really effective
shielding. It's hard to beat good coax for shielding.
Dennis Persyk N9DP radio callsign N600DP RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wing leading edge rib warp |
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
01/24/2001 02:32:09 PM
>After fluting some over, some under (fluting), my leading edge ribs have
an
>awful warp to them. Is it safe to say that when drilling that one can use
>their hand or ... to move them enough to proper alignment? Thanks, Bob
Bob,
Why are they warped? You can add fluting or subtract fluting by just
flattening the flute ( I do this with an old hand seamer ). You should be
able to just lay them on a flat surface when they are properly fluted and
they should lay flat. It's a tweaking process that should end when you
have the desired result. You can do a little tweaking by hand during
installation but it's better if you start out with a relatively warp free
rib.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( fiberglass cowl, windscreen, you name it )
O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Painting the Plane: Alodine or just scuff, prime and paint? |
Jim,
You'll find that most of the guys agree that you stick with one system,
whatever you decide to do.
When I did my Comanche I stripped it, Alodined it and used Dupont Chroma
One system which consists
of a two part Chromate based primer and a two part urethane color coat.
The alodine insured that I
got any corrosion stopped and gave the primer a good hold on the aluminum.
(After almost 40 years there was no more than a fingernail of corrosion on
the whole plane. Piper
zinc chromated comanches in and out when they built them. I'd say that
that speaks pretty well for
the properties of ZC)
That was about 10 years ago. The paint still looks like new and there
isn't even a hint of peeling
anywhere.
Look in the archives under "primer" for more of the primer wars.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of James Norman,
M.D.
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2001 12:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Painting the Plane: Alodine or just scuff, prime and
paint?
What type of primer do the Listers recommend for the OUTSIDE of the plane
prior to painting the color coats?
Does everybody Alodine, then prime, then paint? Or, is it ok to just scuff
with Scotchbright pads, prime with epoxy primer (or some other product),
then color with polyurathane (or some other product)? Funny, none of the
bodyshops around here can tell me, and our local airport is still using Zink
Chromate on the outside (outdated??).
Best I can tell is that most of us don't Alodine the skins, just scuff and
paint... Does anybody know of good web sites that describe the process?
thanks
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Choice |
> I'm building a 9A and will soon be forced to choose an engine.
> Vans reccomends the 0-320 as the largest engine choice. The new demo has
> this engine with a constant speed prop. While the performance is
exceptional
> with this combo, I really dont want the expense of purchasing a constant
> speed prop or the maintenance. But I do want the performance!
> Since I fly out of high elevation airports, (in fact I expect to spend 99%
> of my flying time above 5000') I was thinking about an 0-360 with a wooden
> prop. This combo would be lighter than the 0-320/constant speed combo and
it
> would certainly be less expensive.
> So this raises several questions; first what problems, if any, would this
> cause? My guess is that Vans only reccomends the 0-320 to avoid having
> pilots exceed VNE. For me this probably would not be a problem because of
> the altitudes at which I fly.
> Second, could the 0-360 with wood prop come close to matching both
> take-off/climb performance and cruise speed performance of the 0-320
> constant speed combo?
>
> What else am I missing in this line of thinking?
> Thanks for your help.
> Cliff
> Erie, CO
> RV9A N782PC
Cliff,
My PERSONAL OPINION: given the density altitudes you will be flying at I
would make a constant speed prop a top priority. Would you consider driving
a car around with only one gear? A constant speed prop will always be
operating near peak efficiency, a fixed pitch will not. If you're worried
about maintenance consider this... the TBO of a Hartzell is 2,400 hours or 6
years, whichever occurs first. At that time all you have to do is remove six
bolts, take it to the prop shop (or send it to Hartzell) for a "rebuild",
which is really an inspection and new seals. I'm told that if there is no
damage that this service is in the range of $600.. Is this a reasonable
price to pay for significantly better performance (better accelation,
increased climb rate, better deceleration, less chance of overspeeding the
engine on descent, improved short field performance, etc, etc.)? Lastly, the
RV-9A is not approved by it's designer for the O-360... do you really want
to go there?
Food for thought, advice worth what you paid for it ;-)
Randy Lervold
RV-8, O-360, Hartzell HC-C2YK-1BF
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting the Plane: Alodine or just scuff, prime and paint? |
Pick a paint vendor and follow their instructions. Most vendors like
DuPont, Sherwin-Williams, etc match their primer to their topcoats. I don't
think very many folks Alodine. Mostly scuff with scothbright pads and then
follow manuafacture's directions.
Find yourself a good, local AUTOMOTIVE paint supplier. They will steer you
in the right direction.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 115 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Norman, M.D." <jnorman(at)yourdoctor.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2001 1:47 PM
Subject: RV-List: Painting the Plane: Alodine or just scuff, prime and
paint?
>
> What type of primer do the Listers recommend for the OUTSIDE of the plane
> prior to painting the color coats?
>
> Does everybody Alodine, then prime, then paint? Or, is it ok to just
scuff
> with Scotchbright pads, prime with epoxy primer (or some other product),
> then color with polyurathane (or some other product)? Funny, none of the
> bodyshops around here can tell me, and our local airport is still using
Zink
> Chromate on the outside (outdated??).
>
> Best I can tell is that most of us don't Alodine the skins, just scuff and
> paint... Does anybody know of good web sites that describe the process?
>
> thanks
>
> Jim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Norman, M.D." <jnorman(at)yourdoctor.com> |
| Subject: | -6 slider question |
I just recently finished mine. The key is just as you have said, the frame
WITH the plexiglass on it should be in line with the rear skins. Thus, you
should be able to put a straight edge along the glass and it should lay on
the skins, and visa versa. Its really not as bad as everybody says, but it
is stressful. Also, don't worry about this particular alignment until AFTER
the front is cut from the back. Once that cut has been made, everything
becomes much easier. It is then time to worry about the little shifts here
and there to make it all line up.
-j
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Removing snapped-off screws from Nutplates |
In a message dated 1/23/01 5:53:46 PM Pacific Standard Time,
KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< how do I get the broken off screw shanks out of the nutplates so I can
replace the screws? >>
I'd think seriously about just drilling out the nutplate rivets and replacing
it.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing leading edge rib warp |
Bob,
I assume you have prepunched skins. In general while fluting you can either
achieve a flat web section or a straight flange section -- not necessarily
both. I would go for the straight flange so that edge distance will be
preserved. It is ok to unflute.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Wednesday, January 24, 2001 2:56 PM
Subject: RV-List: wing leading edge rib warp
>
>After fluting some over, some under (fluting), my leading edge ribs have an
>awful warp to them. Is it safe to say that when drilling that one can use
>their hand or ... to move them enough to proper alignment? Thanks, Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wing leading edge rib warp |
--- Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> After fluting some over, some under (fluting), my leading edge ribs
> have an
> awful warp to them. Is it safe to say that when drilling that one can
> use
> their hand or ... to move them enough to proper alignment? Thanks,
> Bob
Not a problem. Will just be more work match drilling to the skins.
You'll be able to move them around/duct tape them together until
everything lines up.
Keep trucking.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Panel
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing antenna wire question |
> Normal coax for the antennas is RG58/U,
58A/U I'm told as it has a stranded inner core less likely to fail from
vibration. They are electrically equal.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: -6 slider question |
>what should be the optimum position for the rear bows in relation to
> the rear top skin. Should I be able to run a straight edge flat along the
> top skin and just touch the canopy frame the whole way around
If you could get it to where you could run a straight edge **WITH** the
plexi in place (a 1/4 inch pad), making skirts would be a snap. The skirts
would have the same shape as the rear skin with no compound curve.
I wonder if this is what the original design was to be but came out wrong in
the plans?
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: wing leading edge rib warp |
-- Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> After fluting some over, some under (fluting), my leading edge ribs
> have an
> awful warp to them. Is it safe to say that when drilling that one can
> use
> their hand or ... to move them enough to proper alignment? Thanks,
> Bob
..............................................................................
..............................................................................
...................
If your ribs are warped, you will not have a straight rivet line on your
leading edge. So you want your ribs as straight as possible, however you
might consider shrinking your rib flanges, it makes it easier when you lay
out your hole pattern.
Tim B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Removing snapped-off screws from Nutplates |
If you can drill with a smaller than root diameter drill from the back, it
might spin out. On the other hand if the screw protrudes from the back of
the nut plate, you might be able to grab with vice-grips and turn the piece
on thru.
Replacement should not be that big a deal as they are relatively inexpensive
at Oshkosh.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
EAA Chapter 75 helping fellow aviators
----- Original Message -----
From: <HCRV6(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2001 3:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Removing snapped-off screws from Nutplates
>
> In a message dated 1/23/01 5:53:46 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM writes:
>
> << how do I get the broken off screw shanks out of the nutplates so I can
> replace the screws? >>
>
> I'd think seriously about just drilling out the nutplate rivets and
replacing
> it.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, finish kit stuff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | leading edge rib warp |
Any of you guys remember your leading edge wing ribs having a warp to them?
Yes I fluted and straightened, but... dang the look awful. Question: Is it
safe to assume that when drilling to skins, that one can move them by hand
or... enough that they will be fine?? Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | it's all clear now |
i never knew that i was SHOUTING with caps, when i wanted to shout i
SHOUTED, but i did wonder why i didn't get a lot of replies to my questions.
i am now a non-cap lister and [ PLEASE] i was not meaning to shout. by
the way i am buying a catto prop for my 190hp 0-320. craig catto sounds like
he knows what he is doing. [ 190hp @ 2765rpm ] wish me luck.
mike rv-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Kitz" <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Choice |
> Cliff, one of the fine gents that ran the RV clas at Sportair siad that if
he
> had it to do over again, he would not go the inexpensive route of a wooden
prop.
> They require constantant attention to torquing and re-torquing.
Must be something wrong with my wooden Sensenich. Once torqued, it never
loosens up. I have a full diameter crush plate of 1/2" alum and have never
had loose bolts. I believe with a crush plate, graphite oil on the bolts,,
proper torquing sequence, and a good torque wrench, you will not have a
problem.
John Kitz
N721JK
466 hours on Sensenich in 4 years
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wing leading edge rib warp |
> If your ribs are warped, you will not have a straight rivet line on
> your leading edge.
I bet he's pre-punched, which will make this not an issue.
He'll mark a centerline on his ribs, move them until it shows in the
holes, and drill.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Panel
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: wing leading edge rib warp |
My question is: will they be easy to move? Yes, I have prepunched skins.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kenneth beene <kbeene(at)citilink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing antenna wire question |
I built by 6A with the strobe power supplies near the wing tip and the low
voltage sync line connecting the supplies on each tip. These lines run
through the same conduit as the wires to my wing mounted NavAid servo. I
have a bottom mounted antenna for my GX-60 and have no noise from the
strobes.
I recently upgraded the panel with additional com and ILS capabilities. I
didn't want additional external antennas so I put the new ones in the wing
tip. I made these from copper foil and measured them for a VSWR of less
than 1.1:1 at the center freq. They go up to 3:1 at the end of the band.
Now my nav and second com antenna are next to the strobes and supplies. I
get some slight noise when the stabs are on. I recently noticed when the
autopilot is coupled and I key the mike of the wing mounted com that it
upsets the autopilot servo. The coax is running along side the servo wires
in the same conduit. I may be getting some RF back down the shielded
coax. Next time I remove the tips I will try some torrieds on the outside
of the coax and also put some on the control wires to the servo.
Ken
RV-6A N94KB www.mninter.net/~kbeene/
WY0S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Choice |
In a message dated 01/24/2001 2:56:42 PM Pacific Standard Time,
jkitz(at)greenapple.com writes:
> Must be something wrong with my wooden Sensenich. Once torqued, it never
> loosens up. I have a full diameter crush plate of 1/2" alum and have never
> had loose bolts. I believe with a crush plate, graphite oil on the bolts,,
> proper torquing sequence, and a good torque wrench, you will not have a
> problem.
> John Kitz
> N721JK
> 466 hours on Sensenich in 4 years
>
Hi All,
I had a Warnke wood prop just like that. It torqued down solid the first
time around, and it never changed in torque each time I checked it.
I had another wood prop that required re-torquing every two hours of flight.
i.e., it started at 22 ft.lbs. (overtorqued) and two hours of flight later,
it was at 15 ft. lbs. Repeatedly, and consistently.
BTW, It depends on the hardness of the wood at the front and rear surfaces,
and the percentage of glue content in the laminates.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Hall" <robjhall(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Choice |
Cliff,
I have been flying my RV-6, O-320 H2AD with a Warnke wood prop, for more
than two years out of my home airport (00V) with a field elevation of 6784
ft. I have been to most of the airports in the mountains west of Denver and
Colorado Springs, including Leadville (elev 9,973 if memory serves). Of
the half-dozen RV's flying out of 00V, only one has an O-360 and I have
heard no one seriously complain about not having enough power. Based on my
experience, I believe 160 hp be fine for your RV-9.
However, when it comes time to replace the wood prop, I will probably
replace it with a Sensenich from Van's. Re-torquing the prop bolts every 25
hours gets old in a hurry. If Colorado was not so dry as it is, I would
have replaced it already.
Bob Hall,
Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | leading edge rib warp |
I know exactly what you mean. I also fluted and straightened the tip ribs
until they were perfect on a flat surface. The problem is that they still
will 'flop' or 'buckle' back and forth between being warped and straight.
This happened with the leading edge ribs but even more so with the tank
ribs.
I was worried about this also but it all worked out in the end. I inserted
the 1/4 threaded rod they suggest for aligning the ribs (I was lucky to get
a 6ft piece). I used large washers on both sides of each rib and used nuts
to get it tight. When I tightened the nuts it made the ribs straight again
since the washers flattened the critical part of the web. The ones that
weren't perfectly straight was easy to flute or un-flute with hand seamers.
Hope this helps,
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
Sent: January 23, 2001 10:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: leading edge rib warp
Any of you guys remember your leading edge wing ribs having a warp to them?
Yes I fluted and straightened, but... dang the look awful. Question: Is it
safe to assume that when drilling to skins, that one can move them by hand
or... enough that they will be fine?? Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing leading edge rib warp |
Bob:
You shouldn't have any trouble nudging them into position. A handy tool to
use to accomplish this is a metal yardstick. Sneak it through your
lightening holes until it is in position by the offending rib and push on it
at the junction of the rib web and flange. No sweat.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuse
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Wednesday, January 24, 2001 7:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: wing leading edge rib warp
>
>My question is: will they be easy to move? Yes, I have prepunched skins.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | earl fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing leading edge rib warp |
go back and flute some more until they are warp free.
Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> After fluting some over, some under (fluting), my leading edge ribs have an
> awful warp to them. Is it safe to say that when drilling that one can use
> their hand or ... to move them enough to proper alignment? Thanks, Bob
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: -6 slider question |
> Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with ESMTP id
> for
>
>
> To those who have gone before me, as I look at the rear bows of the
> canopy
> frame, what should be the optimum position for the rear bows in
> relation to the rear top skin.
If you run a straight edge on the top of the fuselage skin, you should
go _over_ the canopy frame rear bow and have about an 1/8 inch gap (for
the thickness of the canopy itself.
IOW, with the canopy on the frame, a straight edge should go along the
skin and top of the canopy.
Mind you, this applies at the top of the fuselage - the rear-sides will
probably not match, but you'll take that up with the rear skirts.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Panel (canopy veteran)
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wing leading edge rib warp |
--- Jeff Orear wrote:
>
> Bob:
>
> You shouldn't have any trouble nudging them into position. A handy
> tool to
> use to accomplish this is a metal yardstick. Sneak it through your
> lightening holes until it is in position by the offending rib and
> push on it
> at the junction of the rib web and flange. No sweat.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
I'll just add this to Jeff's comment (and it's a good comment - I did
it that way):
How easy it is to move them around will depend on how tight you cinch
down the straps. Don't feel like you have to get out a cheater bar to
pull those leading edges down! When you pull them down to the marks
you'll make on the main spar (or to the main skins, if you've put them
on already - some do) they should not be so tight that you can't move
the ribs with the above method.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Panel
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing antenna wire question |
kenneth beene wrote:
>
> I recently noticed when the
> autopilot is coupled and I key the mike of the wing mounted com that it
> upsets the autopilot servo.
It was only after I had been flying with the Navaid for a while that I
figured out why my RV-6 would sometimes get flakey when the mike was
keyed and the Navaid was doing its thing.
I included the diode in the PTT circuit per Navaid's directions so the
servo would be disabled when the PTT was pushed, supposedly to eliminate
jittering in the servo due to RMI. However, the momentary roll that
would sometimes occur when the mike was keyed was not due to radio
interference but to pilot neglect! It seems the Navaid will lull you
into complacency enough on a long trip that the dumb pilot of my plane
would allow the aileron trim to get a little out of whack due to burning
off fuel in one tank. When the mike was keyed, the servo disengaged, and
all of a sudden the out-of-trim plane would remind the ignorant pilot to
not rely totally on the Navaid for aileron trim. Of course, when the
mike switch was released, the servo came back on line and the plane
would instantly pop back to wings-level.
While not dangerous, it was sufficient to cause a couple members of the
Alabama RV Gang who were flying in trail to inquire as whether or not
the pilot on board 399SB was delivering (sampling) some Alabama home
brew....
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, wings level most of the time.....firm believer in
installing an aileron trim system)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: it's all clear now |
thanks james
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Choice |
John Kitz wrote:
>
>
> > Cliff, one of the fine gents that ran the RV clas at Sportair siad that if
> he
> > had it to do over again, he would not go the inexpensive route of a wooden
> prop.
> > They require constantant attention to torquing and re-torquing.
>
> Must be something wrong with my wooden Sensenich. Once torqued, it never
> loosens up. I have a full diameter crush plate of 1/2" alum and have never
> had loose bolts. I believe with a crush plate, graphite oil on the bolts,,
> proper torquing sequence, and a good torque wrench, you will not have a
> problem.
> John Kitz
> N721JK
> 466 hours on Sensenich in 4 years
>
I've had similar experience with several props on 2
different homebuilts. (RV-4 & Thorp T-18)
If the prop sees wild variations in humidity, then
re-torquing might be required. I would suspect that the
legends of constant re-torquing have risen from using
inadequate crush plates, poor fit between bolt holes &
bolts, no drive lugs in the prop flange, etc.
I would try to get as many opinions as possible, but Van's
could probably help more than anyone else on general care &
feeding of wood props.
Was the original question about a 180 hp O360 / wood prop
combo? Many people run that combination successfully on -4's
& -6's. Mark Landoll (lightweight alternators, harmonic
dampers) is running that combo on his -4.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: it's all clear now |
In a message dated 1/24/01 2:48:15 PM Pacific Standard Time,
MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< i never knew that i was SHOUTING with caps, when i wanted to shout i
SHOUTED, but i did wonder why i didn't get a lot of replies to my questions.
i am now a non-cap lister and [ PLEASE] i was not meaning to shout. >>
It is proper English, however, to capitalize the first person singular
pronoun, I. Otherwise it just looks like you're too lazy to hit the shift
key ;
) (I assume you are aware of emoticons?). We'll get you whipped into
shape in no time.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | EGT Probe Location |
I have searched the archives and still don't have a clear idea about where
to put the egt probes. Some say above the saddle joint and others below.
If it is above, it would have to be about 1.5 inches from the flange to stay
on a straight run. Since the absolute temp is unimportant, would a location
further from the flange extend probe life?
Ross
6-A O360
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Choice |
01/25/2001 09:06:46 AM
What engine/aircraft is your sensenich wood on ??
"John Kitz"
To:
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine
Choice
ronics.com
01/24/2001 05:55 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
> Cliff, one of the fine gents that ran the RV clas at Sportair siad that
if
he
> had it to do over again, he would not go the inexpensive route of a
wooden
prop.
> They require constantant attention to torquing and re-torquing.
Must be something wrong with my wooden Sensenich. Once torqued, it never
loosens up. I have a full diameter crush plate of 1/2" alum and have never
had loose bolts. I believe with a crush plate, graphite oil on the
bolts,,
proper torquing sequence, and a good torque wrench, you will not have a
problem.
John Kitz
N721JK
466 hours on Sensenich in 4 years
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wing leading edge rib warp |
Yes
Jim Bower
St. Louis
RV-6A
Wings
>From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: wing leading edge rib warp
>Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 15:15:27 EST
>
>
>After fluting some over, some under (fluting), my leading edge ribs have an
>awful warp to them. Is it safe to say that when drilling that one can use
>their hand or ... to move them enough to proper alignment? Thanks, Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Removing snapped-off screws from Nutplates |
We have found that Boeing Lube is very effective - also.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Fuselage painted - Wings next)
Niantic, CT
>From: "James Norman, M.D." <jnorman(at)yourdoctor.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Removing snapped-off screws from Nutplates
>Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 23:22:16 -0500
>
>
>
>I have found that dipping the tip of the screw in some oil (motor oil)
>prior
>to screwing it into a nut plat will prevent it from breaking. I do all of
>my
>nut plate screws this way...and don't worry, these dudes aren't coming out
>because of a drop of oil!
>
>jim
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
>Kelsonhoffrv9(at)AOL.COM
>Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 9:13 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Removing snapped-off screws from Nutplates
>
>
>I haven't pulled out any broken out screws in an rv kit, but I sure have
>had
>my share of pulling out broken off screws, bolts, etc. from the multitude
>of
>old sports cars I've restored. I would say drill a small pilot hole in the
>screw and then use an "easy-out" to screw it out. These work with a reverse
>kind of thread so they get tighter as you turn to the left which will
>ultimately unscrew the stub of the screw. With a small screw like a #6 you
>will likely just about remove the whole screw when you drill through it but
>that's ok too. The more you remove before you do the easy out sometimes the
>better, depending on how tight the screw is. It's possible that once you
>start to drill into the screw it could screw itself all the way through the
>plate nut and fall out inside the wing. That's probably ok too. Hell I have
>had all kinds of broken off pieces of screws and bolts inside my cars. Now
>that I think of it, that's why I switched to building a plane.
>
>Curt Hoffman Loveland, OH
>RV-9A
>Working on Wing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EGT Probe Location |
> I have searched the archives and still don't have a clear idea about where
> to put the egt probes. Some say above the saddle joint and others below.
> If it is above, it would have to be about 1.5 inches from the flange to
stay
> on a straight run. Since the absolute temp is unimportant, would a
location
> further from the flange extend probe life?
>
> Ross
> 6-A O360
Ross,
The most important factor is to place them all equidistant from the exhaust
flange. As I recall the manual for my Electronics International guage gave a
spec of around 1.25" from the flange. I would think locating them down
around the saddle joint (assuming you mean the ball joint) would be way to
far downstream and would allow uneven cooling to effect the readings.
One thing to be careful of... If you install them to angle aft be careful on
the right side. Too much angle will create interference with the spark
plugs. Guess how I know?
Regards,
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent S. Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | leading edge rib warp |
Hello,
Yes, mine did the same, but presented little problem when I finished the
wing.
Suggestion: If you decide to use the rod method, save yourself some time
and grief and use nylon tie downs instead of nuts and bolts on each side of
each rib. Not as tight and secure as the nuts but when you get to this
stage, tight and secure is annoying as you will need some slop to adjust the
rib to the skins. Also doesn't take as long to set up and remove.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8-SB(slow built) Fuselage
Moscow, Idaho
USA
Any of you guys remember your leading edge wing ribs having a warp to them?
Yes I fluted and straightened, but... dang the look awful. Question: Is it
safe to assume that when drilling to skins, that one can move them by hand
or... enough that they will be fine?? Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bezinque, David" <David_Bezinque(at)MAXTOR.COM> |
| Subject: | Tube Valve Stem nut & washer |
I was mounting my tires this morning and found that the washer and nut
supplied with the tube just barely fit in the valve stem hole (Cleveland
wheels). I am talking about the hole in the center of the rim. I left them
out of the first wheel because they don't serve a purpose, but had second
thoughts on the next wheel. Anyone have any thoughts on this incredible
dilemma?
Dave Bezinque
david_bezinque(at)maxtor.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wig-wag lights on video |
>"Jim Bower"
> watched the Jantzi's video and was thoroughly impressed with the wig-wag
>landing lights. They showed up better than the strobes! I am going to put
>a second landing light on my -6A and install that circuit.
Jim,
Here are some of the features and benefits of the WigWag Solid State
Controller that we designed and now have in production.
1. Improve safety by being seen and noticed. We have set the wigwag flash
rate longer then automotive flashers so that the bulbs come up to full
brightness. This means that you will be seen from a greater distance. The
police car behind you with a fast flash rate does not need to be seen from
miles away. The WigWag pattern will improve being recognized because we
have all been conditioned to notice movement and the flash at one wing tip
followed by the flash at the other wing tip creates apparent motion. This
is most important when head on where without the wigwag pattern there is no
apparent motion.
2. Additional improved safety by creating a redundant power circuit for
the WigWag. Two fuses or circuit breakers are connect to the WIgWag; one
for the right light and one for the left light. If one of the circuits to
one of these bulbs fails and blows its circuit breaker or fuse, the wig wag
control functions continue and the other bulb remains operational. It
would be sad to have 2 leading edge lights installed and land in the dark
because the wigwag circuit in your plane was not redundant.
3. Simpler easier to install wiring. Ten wires are connected to the master
bus, ground, the leading edge lights, the switch(s) and optionally to 2
LEDs that indicate that a bulb has failed. The WigWag is 2 by 2 by 5 1/4
inch aluminum case and with 4 #8 mounting holes.
4. Reduced cost. Bulbs last longer and require less maintenance time
because the WigWag includes a bulb filament warmer. Warm filaments are
more ductile and less likely to break. Also, warm filaments reduce in rush
current which increases bulb life.
5. More reduced cost. The WIgWag is controlled by switches that turn
functions on by conducting only milli-amps to ground. As a result, simple
in-expense switches can be use. This also means that you can operate the
WigWag Solid State Controller with the same style switches used on the rest
of your panel. Other WigWag circuit designs often require:
a. Two switches that can carry large currents, S700-2-10, $20 each =
$40.
b. Plus a flash function, typically a Galls Flasher, FS-033, for
$49.99 or a timer circuit (LM555) plus 2 relays -S704-1 ($10 each) about $35.
c. Plus prototyping circuit board, longer larger wires, misc
components - $10 to $15.
To view an Adobe Acrobat data sheet for the WigWag Solid State Controller
and pictures go to :
http://www.easystreet.com/~bhaan/
Bob
RV6A installing Windscreen
Portland, OR
http://www.easystreet.com/~bhaan/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wing leading edge rib warp |
In a message dated 1/24/01 4:01:27 PM Pacific Standard Time, Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< My question is: will they be easy to move? Yes, I have prepunched skins. >>
Bob: You'll get different opinions on this but my experience was that once
I had pulled the skins down tight the ribs were pretty hard to move around.
I also had a hard time straightening my ribs but found eventually that if I
worked with them enough, fluting and de-fluting (if that's a word) as
required I was able to get them pretty flat and straight. Be aware during
this process of where the rivets will go and do not put flutes there. Be
patient and you will get them straight enough that you can nudge them into
final position with a pin punch through the rivet holes in the skin and /or
with a long stick through the lightening holes. Good luck.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | leading edge rib warp |
> Suggestion: If you decide to use the rod method, save yourself some
> time
> and grief and use nylon tie downs instead of nuts and bolts on each
> side of
> each rib. Not as tight and secure as the nuts but when you get to
> this
> stage, tight and secure is annoying as you will need some slop to
> adjust the
> rib to the skins. Also doesn't take as long to set up and remove.
I'll go you one better - and easier adjustment:
Wooden clothes pins on the threaded rod.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Panel
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: leading edge rib warp |
Fellow builders,
I also used a ready rod and threaded the nuts and washers the whole length
to hold the ribs in place. In my opinion, I probably would not do it again
that way just because it took too long to set up. It worked very well but I
felt that I had more productive things to do in the shop than spin nuts on a
rod. I made a modification on one of my wings which required the removal of
the outer leading edge skin. This change made me rethink the rib alignment
proceedure over again. This is what I came up with. Measure the distance
between each rib at the spar and cut a 1" PCV tube the exact length to fit
between the ribs - one tube for each pair of ribs. I then ran a safety wire
through the machine holes that Vans makes in the rib near the tip and
threaded the tubes on the wire between each rib bay. Once at the other end I
looped the wire over a drill bit and threaded the wire back to the starting
point through all the ribs and tubes. Then by using another drill bit to
create an anchor for the wire I spun the wire tight with my safety wire
pliers. The ribs were held tight and in location and the whole job took
about 5 minutes.
Hope this helps get you into the air sooner.
Douglas G. Murray
Southern Alberta RV-6 C-GRPA painting & upholstery
>
> Suggestion: If you decide to use the rod method, save yourself some time
> and grief and use nylon tie downs instead of nuts and bolts on each side
of
> each rib. Not as tight and secure as the nuts but when you get to this
> stage, tight and secure is annoying as you will need some slop to adjust
the
> rib to the skins. Also doesn't take as long to set up and remove.
>
> Regards,
>
> Vince Himsl
> RV8-SB(slow built) Fuselage
> Moscow, Idaho
> USA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Reserve your N-number on line |
In case you missed the following from from AVweb (http://registry.faa.gov/frame.htm):
In its continuing
effort to go digital, the registry -- which handles the FAA's airman and
aircraft records -- also now offers credit-card payment online for some
services, including vanity tail-number requests. Many other
transactions can now be made online, and lots of forms are available for
download.
Shop online without a credit card
http://www.rocketcash.com
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: leading edge rib warp |
I have been following with interest the discussions on how to align the wing
ribs. I am RV-9 and still on my Emp. The wings for the 9 come with
prepunched skins. Are the ribs prepunched?
Dennis Thomas
RV-9A Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tchoug <tchoug(at)micron.com> |
| Subject: | leading edge rib warp |
Dennis,
I just received my wing kit for my -9A yesterday - finally! Yes, all of the
ribs or prepunched in addition to the skins. Fluting is still required, but
it's much easier to figure out where to flute because the holes are already
there. You just flute between the holes until they're flat. When it comes
time to fit the skin you should just need a long reach type device to reach
in and slide the ribs until the holes line up. But I haven't been there yet
so I'm not sure what other -9 builders are doing.
Todd Houg
St. Francis, MN
http://www.toddhoug.com RV-9A web page
Inventorying the wing kit!
-----Original Message-----
From: DThomas773(at)AOL.COM [mailto:DThomas773(at)AOL.COM]
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2001 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: RE: RV-List: leading edge rib warp
I have been following with interest the discussions on how to align the wing
ribs. I am RV-9 and still on my Emp. The wings for the 9 come with
prepunched skins. Are the ribs prepunched?
Dennis Thomas
RV-9A Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Finish Kit Build Sequence |
I am contemplating the sequence of events that should occur as I start
getting into my finish kit. My plane is an RV-6A Slider. I have not riveted
on the forward top skin yet as I would like to prewire as much as possible
before doing that. I would like to mount the engine mount and actually hang
the engine before making too many holes in the firewall. Once that is done,
I'll have a better idea of where all the various wires, cables and hoses will
enter the fuselage through the firewall. Then I can move a lot farther down
the road toward getting the stuff done behind the instrument panel. Once
finished, I can rivet on the top skin.
My worry is hanging the engine on the plane without the top skin riveted in
place. I suspect that the top skin carries some of the load of the engine
weight.
Any comments/suggestions from those that have gone before me?
Thanks in advance.
Eric Newton Long Beach, MS,
RV-6A N57ME (reserved) (Fuselage)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bev and Walt Giffin <flygiffin(at)gateway.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Engine Choice/Wood Prop Torque |
I noted several comments about problems with wood props and re-torquing.
I own a T-18 and an RV-4, both with O-320's and wood props. I have
flown the T-18 for over 2000 hours and the RV-4 for 180 hours. Early in
its life (some 21 years ago) I had problems with constant loss of torque
on the prop bolts on the T-18. My solution was to drill the bolts and
install castellated nuts with cotter pins. Since then I have no
problems with loosening bolts on either aircraft.
Walt Giffin
RV-4 N36WG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Reserve your N-number on line |
Just out of curiosity, and I apologize for not checking the archives first
on this question: For those of you with reserved N numbers in California
who are still building, are you being taxed on your "airplane?"
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Finn Lassen [mailto:finnlassen(at)netzero.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2001 12:31 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Reserve your N-number on line
In case you missed the following from from AVweb
(http://registry.faa.gov/frame.htm):
In its continuing
effort to go digital, the registry -- which handles the
FAA's airman and
aircraft records -- also now offers credit-card payment
online for some
services, including vanity tail-number requests. Many other
transactions can now be made online, and lots of forms are
available for
download.
Shop online without a credit card
http://www.rocketcash.com
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Yohannes Kayir" <yohannkayir(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator mounting RV4 |
Fellow Listers,
What is the best way and location for installing a gascolator on an RV4
firewall?
Note that the surface is not vertical due to the rudder pedal recess.
1. Do I have to keep the gascolator oriented upright?
2. Do I have to use stainless for the bracket? Will the one advertised in
Van's catalogue work on the RV4 firewall or do I fabricate my own?
3. What kind of thru-wall fittings? Again, considering the firewall is not
vertical at that location.
The gascolator I have is the plain vanilla (Van's) unit.
Thanks in advance,
Yohann Kayir
Pensacola, FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: it's all clear now |
AMEN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT Probe Location |
Ross,
The farther the probe is from the cylinder the less change you'll have and the
slower it will react. The probe on our MII is below the "saddle" and is
unusable. I installed the probes on my -6 per the instructions that came with
the EGT and it works good. I believe that it said 1-1/2 to 3 inches from the
flange but the paperwork is at the airport - I'll double check it tomorrow.
Dave
Ross wrote:
>
> I have searched the archives and still don't have a clear idea about where
> to put the egt probes. Some say above the saddle joint and others below.
> If it is above, it would have to be about 1.5 inches from the flange to stay
> on a straight run. Since the absolute temp is unimportant, would a location
> further from the flange extend probe life?
>
> Ross
> 6-A O360
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tube Valve Stem nut & washer |
You are supposed to leave them out...those are for different
applications...I went through the same thing and called Van's...they just
said add them to your collection of nuts and washers.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bezinque, David" <David_Bezinque(at)MAXTOR.COM>
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2001 11:55 AM
Subject: RV-List: Tube Valve Stem nut & washer
>
>
> I was mounting my tires this morning and found that the washer and nut
> supplied with the tube just barely fit in the valve stem hole (Cleveland
> wheels). I am talking about the hole in the center of the rim. I left them
> out of the first wheel because they don't serve a purpose, but had second
> thoughts on the next wheel. Anyone have any thoughts on this incredible
> dilemma?
>
> Dave Bezinque
> david_bezinque(at)maxtor.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Build Sequence |
> My worry is hanging the engine on the plane without the top skin
> riveted in
> place. I suspect that the top skin carries some of the load of the
> engine
> weight.
> Any comments/suggestions from those that have gone before me?
I'm not there yet, but I know two who have gone before and left off
both the bottom _and_ top forward skins until well after the engine was
hung. Great access to plumbing fuel stuff as well as top access to the
firewall and other engine plumbing.
Probably the longerons, supported by the riveted side skins, take all
the vertical stress.
You might want to revisit the sequence RE: drilling holes - Seems from
the books and folks' talk that the better thing is to have as few holes
to drill and stuff to mount after the engine is hung.
YMMV.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Panel
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Stewart <bruces(at)shoalhaven.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re:Instrument Panel measurements |
Hi All,
can someone have a look at drw 17 and
tell me what the incremental measurements
are for the Inst panel arc? my drw seems OK
till I get to 8" laterally then it all goes wrong
and I end up with two lines not meeting!
mmmmmmm ;-\
my preview drawing is dated 10/30/84.
Thanks
Bruce
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BUILDERS LOG |
No requirement for that. That is only for the original certification and
for proof for Repairman's certificate.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
RV-8A
18.7 hours
>From: MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV-LIST(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: BUILDERS LOG
>Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 17:43:03 EST
>
>
> WHEN YOU SELL A HOMEBUILT, DOES THE BUILDERS LOG AND PHOTOS GO WITH
>IT. [
>FAA REQUIREMENT ] ? IF SO----WHY?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM |
it's got 10 to 1 compression and the heads have been worked on. LY-CON
in visalia, ca. does a great job. they are famous for their engines, they
don't advertise and have all the work they can handle. mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: it's all clear now |
i [I] guess i'm just lazy. actually i'm always in too much of a hurry
haha ----------- mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Build Sequence |
In a message dated 1/25/01 2:56:01 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ENewton57(at)AOL.COM writes:
>
> I am contemplating the sequence of events that should occur as I start
> getting into my finish kit. My plane is an RV-6A Slider. I have not
> riveted
> on the forward top skin yet as I would like to prewire as much as possible
> before doing that. I would like to mount the engine mount and actually
> hang
> the engine before making too many holes in the firewall. Once that is
> done,
> I'll have a better idea of where all the various wires, cables and hoses
> will
> enter the fuselage through the firewall. Then I can move a lot farther
> down
> the road toward getting the stuff done behind the instrument panel. Once
> finished, I can rivet on the top skin.
> My worry is hanging the engine on the plane without the top skin riveted in
> place. I suspect that the top skin carries some of the load of the engine
> weight.
> Any comments/suggestions from those that have gone before me?
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Eric Newton Long Beach, MS,
> RV-6A N57ME (reserved) (Fuselage)
> http://www.ericsrv6a.com
>
You might hold off on hanging your engine, I think you should lock down that
top skin first, I built a fastback RV 4, but before my top skin was attached
there was a lot of movement in the fuselage.
Tim
N39TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Build Sequence |
Eric - I know of one builder who left the forward floor skin out until last
and sat on a stool to wire and plumb up under the instrument panel. He was
always laughing at me because I had left off the upper skin and had to
reach down over the sides to work in behind the panel. Either way you go the
engine is supported by the longerons and weldaments.
Douglas G. Murray
Southern Alberta RV-6 C-GRPA
Subject: RE: RV-List: Finish Kit Build Sequence
> >
> Eric,
>
> The sequence should go
> 1. Get finish kit
> 2. Finish your RV
> 3. Go flying
> 4. Try to wipe grin off face (nearly impossible).
>
> Sorry I couldn't help it....
>
> Don't worry about having the top skin uninstalled when hanging the engine.
The engine loads go thru the engine mount, into the steel weldment that is
attached to the longerons. I sincerely don't think the longerons are going
anywhere.
>
> Leave the top skin off until the last possible moment. That's what I did
>
> Laird RV-6 (windshield replacement done, just need to paint, then fly
again!!!!)
> SoCal
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator mounting RV4 |
I think most are not using a gascolator now. ??????????????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: it's all clear now |
HAHAHAHAHA--OOPS--hahahahaha
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Build Sequence |
.
> > My worry is hanging the engine on the plane without the top skin riveted
in
> > place. I suspect that the top skin carries some of the load of the
engine
> > weight.
> > Any comments/suggestions from those that have gone before me?
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> >
>
> You might hold off on hanging your engine, I think you should lock down
that
> top skin first, I built a fastback RV 4, but before my top skin was
attached
> there was a lot of movement in the fuselage.
>
>
Having just completed the stuff in front of the panel, i.e. under the top
forward skin, and I can't comprehend how that can be done with the top skin
already in place. Top skin absolutely not needed for engine mounting, but I
would at least have bottom skin firmly clecoed in place. Best advice I ever
got relative to RV building: Don't rivet anything until you absolutely have
to.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator mounting RV4 |
Fellow Listers,
What is the best way and location for installing a gascolator on an RV4
firewall?
Note that the surface is not vertical due to the rudder pedal recess.
1. Do I have to keep the gascolator oriented upright?
2. Do I have to use stainless for the bracket? Will the one advertised in
Van's catalogue work on the RV4 firewall or do I fabricate my own?
3. What kind of thru-wall fittings? Again, considering the firewall is not
vertical at that location.
The gascolator I have is the plain vanilla (Van's) unit.
One of the best things about an RV4 is there is so many builders that have
accomplished the same thing many different ways, I used a Andair Gascolator
but I have seen Vans unit (anodized blue) and I think it will mount the same
way. I made a fabricated aluminum bracket which bolted to the gascolator,
attached to the engine mount by a rubber cushioned loop type clamps. I choose
to mount my gascolator in the center part of the mount at the lowest point in
an upright position. As far as the gas line going through the firewall I used
a 3/8" X 3/8" bulkhead fitting (AN832-6D). That made for a clean swoop right
into my fuel pump. Good luck.
Tim
N39TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator mounting |
In a message dated 1/25/01 6:28:20 PM Pacific Standard Time,
MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< I think most are not using a gascolator now. ?????????????? >>
If this is true I think they are misguided and should reconsider this
carefully.
The first time you get a slug of water at top-off I hope you aren't departing
over trees or pointy rocks. A little water sucked into a conventional small
mesh filter is called a plug, particularly in a carbureted (low pressure)
system. A simple gravity water separator installed upstream of the fine
strainers could save your bacon, to say nothing of your huevos.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator mounting |
Thats the way i felt untill i read listing after listing last year
about farm tractor technology and model-A'S had em, modern airplanes with
filters don't need em, etc. I wasn't going to use mine, but should i ?
mike rv-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: leading edge rib warp |
List:
This one goes out to my fellow RC modelers turned rivet smashers. For my
leading edges I used a 3/16th inch music wire with 3/16th inch wheel
collars, one on each side of each rib. Simple procedure to tighten down the
allen screws once the ribs were in place.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuse
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator mounting |
In a message dated 1/25/01 8:07:04 PM Pacific Standard Time,
MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM writes:
>
> Thats the way i felt untill i read listing after listing last year
> about farm tractor technology and model-A'S had em, modern airplanes with
> filters don't need em, etc. I wasn't going to use mine, but should i ?
>
> mike rv-4
>
>
>
I don't believe there is one valid reason not to.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
rv-list
| Subject: | 8A, I changed my building sequence of the forward belly skin |
I confess, I confess, I am a sinner, i purposely did not follow Van's
building sequence......Okay enough bs
Just thought to let all you 8A builders know what I used as a building
sequence.
It has bothered me for a while that for the 8A, one builds the floor and
the forward sidepannels leaving the bottom row of rivets and the
firewall row of rivets open. Then one turns the fuse rightside up and
build the insides, only to flip it over again to install the cooling
ramp and bottom skin with ribs.
Now, on the 8, you have to deal with he landing gear, but on the 8A
there is no such problem.
I decided to do the floor and the bottom forward skins before I
installed the forward sideskins. The advantage is accessebility whilst
doing the various ribs and platenuts. as well as easier access to drill
the holes in the cooling ramp where it meets the firewall.
Also, with all rivets set, except the firewall ones, the fuse has to be
a lot more sturdy. I just didn't like the forward skins to be only
riveted along the top longeron and the F804 bulkhead and then moving the
fuse around unjigged.
The other thing I did, glansed from the list, is to do away with the
hinge for the cooling ramp. only, I did not rebend the extra angle
riveted to the 802Z, I fluted the stiffners on each side of the cooling
ramp near the place where they meet the 802Z. This will force a curve in
the cooling ramp, giving a nice transition with rounded corners from the
cooling ramp to the belly.
As always, your mileage my vary, but I am happy with the results and so
was my bucking partner would did not have to stand in the forward echo
chamber, surrounded by sheet metal, bucking floor rib rivets.....
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | The Razers <razer(at)midwest.net> |
January 18, 2001 - January 25, 2001
RV-Archive.digest.vol-kb