RV-Archive.digest.vol-kc
January 25, 2001 - February 01, 2001
I thought I'd resurrect an old thread about spin training.
After receiving training in a variety of light aerobatics I've shy'ed
away from spins and have never completed any in my 6A. It seems to me
that somewhere in the distant past I read Van recommended "No Spins" in
a 6A. I believe that competency in any aircraft should include spin
recovery and would like to hear comments from those who have
successfully spun and recovered in 6A.
chet razer, 310 happy hours in Miss Chiquita
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <edwardmcole(at)home.com> |
I tried watching Terry Jantzi's video on Real Player and
it looks extremely blurry. Windows media player wouldn't recognize the
format.
I tried various resolutions and color settings on my monitor to no avail.
Anyone got any suggestions?
Ed Cole
RV6A Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Build Sequence |
I have seen in the RVator that Vans planes have had the engine hung without
the forward top skin in place.
I have also did this and noticed no movement with the engine inplace but
suspended by the hoist and then the hoist released.
John Danielson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Reserve your N-number on line |
Scott:
NOPE..... The county sent me a tax form at the hanger. I wrote back
that this is an airplane "in progress", is not certified and has no
value as an aircraft..... They have not responded, after 5 months.....
Dave Aronson
N504RV
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
>
> Just out of curiosity, and I apologize for not checking the archives first
> on this question: For those of you with reserved N numbers in California
> who are still building, are you being taxed on your "airplane?"
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Finn Lassen [mailto:finnlassen(at)netzero.net]
> Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2001 12:31 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Reserve your N-number on line
>
>
>
> In case you missed the following from from AVweb
> (http://registry.faa.gov/frame.htm):
>
> In its continuing
> effort to go digital, the registry -- which handles the
> FAA's airman and
> aircraft records -- also now offers credit-card payment
> online for some
> services, including vanity tail-number requests. Many other
> transactions can now be made online, and lots of forms are
> available for
> download.
>
> Shop online without a credit card
> http://www.rocketcash.com
> RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Finish Kit Build Sequence |
don't sweat it. I had my engine hanging in front for almost six months while
I plumbed and wired everything. you really want that skin off while your
poppin holes in the firewall. routing and tying everything up is much easier
and neater because yoga won't be involved.
Steve
capsteve(at)adelphia.net
My worry is hanging the engine on the plane without the top skin riveted in
place. I suspect that the top skin carries some of the load of the engine
weight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Hodgson" <bob(at)hodgson252.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | RV3 Instrument Panel |
Bruce,
I have the same drawing, but I think the vertical co-ordinates from the
centreline to stn 9 (buttock line ??) are in error by about 1.23" (too
small). So that makes the co-ords from the c/l outwards:
0 9.73
1 9.71
2 9.63
3 9.46
4 9.18
5 8.85
6 8.42
7 7.91
8 7.26
9 6.46
I haven't cut the panel yet, so it might be a good idea to do a scrap
mock-up first to check these dims.
Cheers,
Bob (UK)
3B Mainspar bulkhead
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> |
| Subject: | Tube Valve Stem nut & washer |
Leave those out, not needed. These are for other configurations..
Doug Gardner -8A FWF
Palm Harbor, Fla.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bezinque, David [mailto:David_Bezinque(at)MAXTOR.COM]
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2001 1:56 PM
Subject: RV-List: Tube Valve Stem nut & washer
I was mounting my tires this morning and found that the washer and nut
supplied with the tube just barely fit in the valve stem hole (Cleveland
wheels). I am talking about the hole in the center of the rim. I left them
out of the first wheel because they don't serve a purpose, but had second
thoughts on the next wheel. Anyone have any thoughts on this incredible
dilemma?
Dave Bezinque
david_bezinque(at)maxtor.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
Chet,
I had some spin training in my -6 with a retired acro instructor & airshow
pilot. We did many 1 & 2 turn spins (upright) and then one 3 turn spin.
The -6 recovers very quickly from the 1 turn spin when opposite rudder is
applied. On the 3 turn spin, it was slow to recover, taking about another
turn. But it was winding up very fast so I'm not sure exactly. I
occasionally do 1 turn spins when out flying, but stop at that.
Rick Caldwell
-6 Melbourne, FL
>From: The Razers <razer(at)midwest.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: spins
>Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 22:27:41 -0600
>
>
>I thought I'd resurrect an old thread about spin training.
>
>After receiving training in a variety of light aerobatics I've shy'ed
>away from spins and have never completed any in my 6A. It seems to me
>that somewhere in the distant past I read Van recommended "No Spins" in
>a 6A. I believe that competency in any aircraft should include spin
>recovery and would like to hear comments from those who have
>successfully spun and recovered in 6A.
>
>chet razer, 310 happy hours in Miss Chiquita
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tube Valve Stem nut & washer |
dave
the nut sits inside the hole to prevent the tube from spinning inside the
tire/rim. i had to bring my tire to a local air craft mechanic to show me
this, it dosen't look right but it is.
good luck
scott
tampa
rv6a finishing engine all plumbed up
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garrett Bray" <braygarrett(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Build Sequence |
I also left off my top skin on my -6 till the very end. Had no problem with
having the engine mounted. A additional trick is to mount the engine on the
mount, torque the bolts, and install the cotter pins. Then mount to the
airframe and determine the location of all the holes, etc on the firewall
then remove the engine-mount assy to drill and install heat box, gascolator
etc. Sure was easier to remove the engine and mount vs. the engine from the
mount. Mine is a dynafocal btw.
Gary Bray
Carmel, Maine
rv-6 102 hrs of flying fun sofar
>From: JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Finish Kit Build Sequence
>Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 01:01:57 EST
>
>
>I have seen in the RVator that Vans planes have had the engine hung without
>the forward top skin in place.
>I have also did this and noticed no movement with the engine inplace but
>suspended by the hoist and then the hoist released.
>
>John Danielson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator mounting |
Gascolaters are like insurance. Most of the time you don't need them, BUT
you will be very glad you do have it when the time comes that it saves your
bacon... AND you won't even know it!!
On the other hand, you will know it for a very short time when a slug of
water stops your engine... Then you die!
----- Original Message -----
From: <MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2001 10:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gascolator mounting
>
> Thats the way i felt untill i read listing after listing last year
> about farm tractor technology and model-A'S had em, modern airplanes with
> filters don't need em, etc. I wasn't going to use mine, but should i ?
> mike rv-4
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Build Sequence |
In a message dated 1/26/01 7:56:08 AM Central Standard Time,
braygarrett(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< A additional trick is to mount the engine on the
mount, torque the bolts, and install the cotter pins. Then mount to the
airframe and determine the location of all the holes, etc on the firewall
then remove the engine-mount assy to drill and install heat box, gascolator
etc. Sure was easier to remove the engine and mount vs. the engine from the
mount. Mine is a dynafocal btw. >>
Gary thanks for the response and the great tip, I'll try it.
Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Build Sequence |
In a message dated 1/25/01 7:26:01 PM Central Standard Time,
grobdriver(at)yahoo.com writes:
<< You might want to revisit the sequence RE: drilling holes - Seems from
the books and folks' talk that the better thing is to have as few holes
to drill and stuff to mount after the engine is hung. >>
Mike,
Thanks for the response. Actually I was planning on drilling as few holes as
possible but want to see where they are in relation to the engine and all its
parts before I commit drill to metal. I figure with the engine in place I
can determine the shortest and most direct runs for things like the Throttle
and Mixture cables, etc. T
Thanks again,
Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Painting jig |
we have just painted a set of rv6 wings and just made up stands like the jig
the wings were built on. This works great as the wings tend to come out
cleaner than painting them laying flat. Im interested in your project as I
am building an RV8-A
(fuselage) in Brookfield CT.
Bruce Voutas
BVOUTAS@AOL
RV8-A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>I thought I'd resurrect an old thread about spin training.
>
>After receiving training in a variety of light aerobatics I've shy'ed
>away from spins and have never completed any in my 6A. It seems to me
>that somewhere in the distant past I read Van recommended "No Spins" in
>a 6A. I believe that competency in any aircraft should include spin
>recovery and would like to hear comments from those who have
>successfully spun and recovered in 6A.
>
Because of Van's cautions, I have only spun my 6 up to two turns. I
found up to that point the spins were conventional. My airplane has a CG
that is pretty far forward with the heavy 72FM8 propeller.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Build Sequence |
On my 6A I also mounted engine to engine mount, then whole assembly to
firewall. I wasn't smart enough to drill the mount holes in the firewall
first, with the engine unmounted, but it was easy anyway. My builder helper
and I probably had the engine on/off 25 times during the plumbing/wiring
phase and we could dismount/mount in about two minutes! I had an engine
hoist for the duration of the engine work and being able to pull off the
engine/mount to drill holes in the firewall or mount stuff on the rear of
the engine made things much easier.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 38 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Garrett Bray <braygarrett(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Friday, January 26, 2001 8:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Finish Kit Build Sequence
>
>
>I also left off my top skin on my -6 till the very end. Had no problem with
>having the engine mounted. A additional trick is to mount the engine on the
>mount, torque the bolts, and install the cotter pins. Then mount to the
>airframe and determine the location of all the holes, etc on the firewall
>then remove the engine-mount assy to drill and install heat box, gascolator
>etc. Sure was easier to remove the engine and mount vs. the engine from the
>mount. Mine is a dynafocal btw.
>Gary Bray
>Carmel, Maine
>rv-6 102 hrs of flying fun sofar
>
>>From: JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM
>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Finish Kit Build Sequence
>>Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 01:01:57 EST
>>
>>
>>I have seen in the RVator that Vans planes have had the engine hung
without
>>the forward top skin in place.
>>I have also did this and noticed no movement with the engine inplace but
>>suspended by the hoist and then the hoist released.
>>
>>John Danielson
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator mounting |
In a message dated 01/25/2001 11:11:25 PM Eastern Standard Time,
MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< Thats the way i felt untill i read listing after listing last year
> about farm tractor technology and model-A'S had em, modern airplanes with
> filters don't need em, etc. I wasn't going to use mine, but should i ?
>
> mike rv-4
>
>
>
I don't believe there is one valid reason not to. >>
This has been hashed before. Try these: weight, cost, complexity, leaks,
vapor lock. You already have sump drains at the tank low points and pick up
tubes that leave several cups or more of unuseable fuel / contaminants
behind. What will a gaascolator contribute? (I assume you will install a
good fuel filter in line, if omitting the gascolator, and service or replace
it at each annual.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM |
I have a new pair of Vans Wing Tips, much care has been taken in storing to
prevent any distortion. I will sell them 1/2 price + frieght. They will fit
RV-4 / 6 im not sure about RV 8 / 9. A great way to save a buck or two.
Tim
N39TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
| Subject: | Re: EGT Probe Location |
Ross--
Tony Bingelis recommends 2 - 4" from the probe to the exhaust flange. The
manual for the VM-1000 wants the EGT probe 3.5 - 4" out. The closer to
the exhaust port, the more heat (abuse) the probe will take and
theoretically shorten its life. In any case, make sure the probe clears
other removable engine components and that the probe wires have a nice
run back to
the firewall.
Boyd
N600SS
>
>
> I have searched the archives and still don't have a clear idea about where
> to put the egt probes. Some say above the saddle joint and others below.
> If it is above, it would have to be about 1.5 inches from the flange to stay
> on a straight run. Since the absolute temp is unimportant, would a location
> further from the flange extend probe life?
>
> Ross
> 6-A O360
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | RV-List Prop: wood vs etc |
>
>I believe 160 hp be fine for your RV-9.
>
Ditto.
>However, when it comes time to replace the wood prop, I will probably
>replace it with a Sensenich from Van's. Re-torquing the prop bolts every 25
>hours gets old in a hurry.
Well, I really like my Bernie Warnke (may he carve in peace) ACS (Almost
Constant Speed) wood prop, for several reasons. Have you seen one? There
is no better looking prop than this one. And I don't know what he finished
it with, but it looks as new as it did when it came out of the box, after
450+ hours. And it was a perfect carve right out of that box, by the way.
He did have a way with props. And smoooooth running. Course, I do have the
Harmonic Dampener up there, too.
Now, Suzie Q and I have sort of a love affair going. I don't mind the
gentle preventative maintenance I gladly do on her, even before the yearly
teardown. It is a confidence thing. And a thank you to the airplane that
keeps my butt safely suspended above The Rocks. The RV series has tightly
cowled engines that are pretty hard to see into. I like pulling the cowling
off routinely and checking things out. And re-torquing the prop bolts. It
is also part of my oil change routine. Takes five minutes, including
finding the tools. I have rarely found the bolts to be too far off their
required torque. I do live in the dry Colorado air; that may make a difference.
It just depends on what you like. And how thick your wallet is. And what
your weight and balance is. And................
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Proud to be swinging wood.............
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator mounting RV4 |
>What is the best way and location for installing a gascolator on an RV4
>firewall?
>1. Do I have to keep the gascolator oriented upright?
>2. Do I have to use stainless for the bracket?
I mounted a standard gascolator using an aluminum bracket, bolted to the
firewall. Lowest point in the system in flight; easily accessible during
preflight. Upright in flight, drain down while on the ground.
>Will the one advertised in Van's catalogue work on the RV4 firewall or do
>I fabricate my own?
I made my own; haven't seen Van's. Mine has a fitting for a blast tube to
keep it cool. No problems with vapor lock even at Kearney, Nebraska at 105
ramp temperature.
>3. What kind of thru-wall fittings?
I have a 45 degree steel fitting through a fire wall bracket that hooks
directly into the gascolator. There is NO relative movement between the
gascolator and the hard fuel lines.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Houle" <thoule(at)kneehill.com> |
I had the same problem.....let me know if you get an answer off list. Thanks
Tim Houle
RV6
Three Hills, Canada
----- Original Message -----
From: Edward Cole <edwardmcole(at)home.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2001 10:56 PM
Subject: RV-List: Video
>
> I tried watching Terry Jantzi's video on Real Player and
> it looks extremely blurry. Windows media player wouldn't recognize the
> format.
> I tried various resolutions and color settings on my monitor to no avail.
> Anyone got any suggestions?
>
> Ed Cole
> RV6A Finish Kit
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator mounting |
In a message dated 1/26/01 9:06:55 AM Pacific Standard Time,
SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM writes:
>
> In a message dated 01/25/2001 11:11:25 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM writes:
>
> << Thats the way I felt untill i read listing after listing last year
> > about farm tractor technology and model-A'S had em, modern airplanes
> with
> > filters don't need em, etc. I wasn't going to use mine, but should i ?
>
>
> >
> > mike rv-4
> >
> >
> >
>
> I don't believe there is one valid reason not to. >>
>
> This has been hashed before. Try these: weight, cost, complexity, leaks,
> vapor lock. You already have sump drains at the tank low points and pick
> up
> tubes that leave several cups or more of unuseable fuel / contaminants
> behind. What will a gaascolator contribute? (I assume you will install a
> good fuel filter in line, if omitting the gascolator, and service or
> replace
> it at each annual.)
>
>
I don't believe this is a big deal but is much to the preference of the
builder, as far as the weight goes that's not a real factor, cost is a factor
$75.00 -- $150.00, its no more complex to install than an inline filter and
can have the same possible amount of leaks, vapor lock can be solved by
location and or heat shield if necessary ( I did not need one). The only
problem I have with a filter is in the remote case water did get to that
point a filter would pass it on through were a gascolator would not.
That's my opinion anyway
Tim
N39TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garrett Bray" <braygarrett(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Wing - Wiring - Conduit ? |
Jack,
This is how I did it. I drilled holes with my uni-bit in the same location
in each rib that would just accept the od (1/2") of a milky white plastic
tubing I bought at the local hdwr store. Once the ribs were in place and
before skining, I pulled the tubing thru... no fasteners needed and the
tubing was very light weight. If you are going to drill a hole for some type
of clamp, why not delete the weight of the clamp and rivit and try my
method? The slick inner surface of the poly (?) tubing made wire pulling
easy. Good luck.
Gary Bray
Carmel, Maine
RV-6 102 hrs of fun flying
>> Instead of drilling additional
>holes in the ribs, has anyone run plastic tubing through the rib lightening
holes, attaching to each rib with a clamp of some type with a #4 rivet?
Any
feedback on your ideas would be great.
Thanks,
Jack Textor
DSM
RV8 (sorting ribs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator mounting |
One wrote:
>> I don't believe there is one valid reason not to. >>
>
Another answered:
> Try these: weight, cost, complexity, leaks, vapor lock.
Also the significant extra work to install. I put in the Andair jobbie but
I am not sure why.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
No doubt the HP a engine puts out can be increased by higher compression
ratio etc. But I believe some of the claims from the engine overhauler's are
somewhat optimistic. Allowing the engine to overspeed (increase rpm's with
full throttle) will certainly allow more horsepower (i.e..Formula 1 race
planes) or increasing boost (manifold pressure) but then you have a new set
of problems to deal with. The only reason I bring this up is because of two
airplanes built side by side.. everything the same. Except one guy spends
additional money for the 10-1 pistons, polish..flow, etc..etc.. the other
uses the stock I0-360-A1A. But otherwise starter, Batt, radio's
so..on...so..on was the same. Well once the test flying started performance
was the same...the guy with the modified engine did experience 10-15' higher
oil temps..but no difference in climb- cruise. This was not a planned
controlled experiment....one guy just has more money than the other. I have
another example but I will not bore you with it. My opinion is to keep a
airplane light (almost free horsepower) and maybe improve the breathing of
the engine by 4-1 or X-over exhaust and better intake system (slight
increase in MP). I would be interested if anyone has had the opposite
experience?
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: <MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2001 6:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 190HP O-320
>
> it's got 10 to 1 compression and the heads have been worked on.
LY-CON
> in visalia, ca. does a great job. they are famous for their engines, they
> don't advertise and have all the work they can handle. mike
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> |
Same here, I have Van's tips for my -8A to sell. Located in Clearwater Fla.
Doug Gardner 727 784 2600
-----Original Message-----
From: MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM [mailto:MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM]
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 12:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wing Tips
I have a new pair of Vans Wing Tips, much care has been taken in storing to
prevent any distortion. I will sell them 1/2 price + frieght. They will fit
RV-4 / 6 im not sure about RV 8 / 9. A great way to save a buck or two.
Tim
N39TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Stewart <bruces(at)shoalhaven.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: RV3 Instrument Panel |
Hi Bob,
upon thinking about it some more and
realising that designers often put wrong
meaurements in drawings (pre view set)
so you have trouble etc there must be a
way to work it out.
Simple, I put the drawing in the photocopier
and increased the percentage enlargement
till I got one known measurement right then
divided up the arc and bingo your measurements are
within a poofteenth of mine!
Thanks for your effort, what I've been doing is playing
with panel layout on a piece of cardboard.
Too stinking hot to work outside at the moment
so I had to do something ;-)
Bruce
>Bruce,
>I have the same drawing, but I think the vertical co-ordinates from the
>centreline to stn 9 (buttock line ??) are in error by about 1.23" (too
>small). So that makes the co-ords from the c/l outwards:
>
>0 9.73
>1 9.71
>2 9.63
>3 9.46
>4 9.18
>5 8.85
>6 8.42
>7 7.91
>8 7.26
>9 6.46
>
>I haven't cut the panel yet, so it might be a good idea to do a scrap
>mock-up first to check these dims.
>Cheers,
>Bob (UK)
>3B Mainspar bulkhead
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Finish Kit Build Sequence |
> On my 6A I also mounted engine to engine mount, then whole assembly to
> firewall....snip.... My builder helper and I probably had the engine
on/off 25 times....snip.... I had an engine hoist for the duration of the
engine work...snip.
Dennis and others:
You people have a lot of good alternatives. Actually, I was planning on
doing it quite differently. Since I am only a "wing" man perhaps you can
straighten me out. My plan was to; unload the engine, build a stickframe
engine stand (2"x4"), install a plywood plate patterned on the firewall, map
both the plywood and the real firewall (a grid), work on the engine on the
engine stand, work on the fuelage a few feet away, dertermine the control,
wire and cable runs and mark them on the plywood, determine lengths, mark
locations, etc., on the plywood, transfer measurements to the real firewall,
mount the engine on the firewall to verify everything, remove engine, cut
and drill the firewall, mount hardware, remount the engine. Since the
engine is a lot heavier and more expensive than a bowling ball I was hoping
that this technique would cut down the mountings from 25 - 30 to perhaps a
half dozen. I just rambled here but this is the basic sequence, as I see
it. AM I being a little naive here??? It seems to be a lot different than
anything in the archives, etc. Seems logical!!!
Ernest Kells
RV-9A - Building Wings, Planning: O-235 Wood Prop
Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
You RV guys can try this too. For fun and enjoyment only as it's worth what
you paid for it.
Vince
> Prop calculator: http://david.gall.com/files/Airplane/prop-099.xls
>
> The "free Microsoft Excel Viewer" link in my last note didn't work. Try
> clicking the link on my home page if you need the viewer:
> http://david.gall.com
>
> The prop calculator is based on NACA TN 212 and is true to that document
> so long as the airplane performance is within the bounds of the document.
> If your plane's performance goes out-of-bounds, a warning will appear at
> the bottom of the calculator. Be sure to let your mouse pointer "hover"
> over the spreadsheet cells that have a little red triangle in their
> upper-right corner -- there are pop-up notes there. Any feedback will be
> appreciated. This spreadsheet was used successfully to trim and tweak the
> Precision Propellers (good prop!) ground adjustable prop seen pulling the
> airplane ("Darling") on my home page (http://david.gall.com).
>
>
> David J. Gall
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: David J. Gall
> To: Q-LIST(at)egroups.com
> Sent: Monday, January 22, 2001 12:18 AM
> Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Onan Rpm + Prop
>
>
> David,
>
> You might have fun with this link:
> http://david.gall.com/files/Airplane/prop-099.xls
>
> (If you don't have Excel, click here for the free Microsoft Excel
> Viewer download page.)
>
>
> David J. Gall
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Q-LIST-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com
>
> Quickie Builders Association WEB site
> http://web2.airmail.net/qba321tm/q-page1.html
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator mounting |
In a message dated 1/26/01 9:07:20 AM Pacific Standard Time,
SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< = >>
what will a gascolator contribute. This is exactly what i
thought the listers decided last year. [ don't use one ] thanks ---mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Build Sequence |
In a message dated 1/26/01 12:36:42 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca writes:
>
> > On my 6A I also mounted engine to engine mount, then whole assembly to
> > firewall....snip.... My builder helper and I probably had the engine
> on/off 25 times....snip.... I had an engine hoist for the duration of the
> engine work...snip.
>
> Dennis and others:
> You people have a lot of good alternatives. Actually, I was planning on
> doing it quite differently. Since I am only a "wing" man perhaps you can
> straighten me out. My plan was to; unload the engine, build a stickframe
> engine stand (2"x4"), install a plywood plate patterned on the firewall, map
> both the plywood and the real firewall (a grid), work on the engine on the
> engine stand, work on the fuelage a few feet away, dertermine the control,
> wire and cable runs and mark them on the plywood, determine lengths, mark
> locations, etc., on the plywood, transfer measurements to the real firewall,
> mount the engine on the firewall to verify everything, remove engine, cut
> and drill the firewall, mount hardware, remount the engine. Since the
> engine is a lot heavier and more expensive than a bowling ball I was hoping
> that this technique would cut down the mountings from 25 - 30 to perhaps a
> half dozen. I just rambled here but this is the basic sequence, as I see
> it. AM I being a little naive here??? It seems to be a lot different than
> anything in the archives, etc. Seems logical!!!
> Ernest Kells
> RV-9A - Building Wings, Planning: O-235 Wood Prop
> Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
>
>
Sounds like a lot of extra work, I only mounted my motor once, I have a hard
time imagining that you would have to it more than that.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Build Sequence |
Since my garage does NOT have a finished ceiling, I purchased a 2 ton
come-a-long that I suspended from the rafters. This is attached to the top
engine ring. I have the engine at the proper height so that I can pull the
plane up to it, see how things will fit and then push the plane back, spin
the engine 90 or 180 degrees and comfortably work on both the engine and
firewall. The engine mount is only tacked to the firewall with two hardware
store bolts so I can get it off and on easily. I love this setup.
Ross
> > On my 6A I also mounted engine to engine mount, then whole assembly to
> > firewall....snip.... My builder helper and I probably had the engine
> on/off 25 times....snip.... I had an engine hoist for the duration of the
> engine work...snip.
>build a stickframe
> engine stand (2"x4"), install a plywood plate patterned on the firewall,
map
> both the plywood and the real firewall (a grid), work on the engine on the
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator mounting |
I installed a gascolator in my kitfox and in 6 years of flying [ 700+hrs ]
i never found water in it. I live in the desert in calif.--used plastic gas
cans to transport prem. unleaded auto fuel [ rotax 912 requirement ] to the
airport where they sometimes sat for weeks before being used and never had a
fuel problem. Maybe i was just lucky but i agree that if you use a good
inline filter and use your tank drains, you won't have a problem . just a
testimonial, not a flame. mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oregon Aero Seat Weight |
Listers:
I saw Scott (abayman) in Tampa this week and saw his very nice 6A. The
question arose concerning the misreported weight in the past of the Oregon
Aero seats. I have recently purchased the cores from them and they weigh in
at 11.5 pounds.
Len, RV-8A
North Carolina N910LL (res)
Hooking up systems
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM |
I hope i didn't spend that extra money for nothing. I know i have the
extra power because i have the dyno tests. LY-CON is very thorough.
mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Finish Kit Build Sequence |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I have mounted the engine & run all the wires & the fuel lines. The
firewall was punched with a 90 degree & backdrilling from the cockpit. I
have 3 grommets that will get final fitting after I remove the engine for
overhaul.
I liked it because the cables was the real world not calculated.
Don Jordan RV6A Arlington, Tx
*****************************************
writes:
>
>
>
> > On my 6A I also mounted engine to engine mount, then whole
> assembly to
> > firewall....snip.... My builder helper and I probably had the
> engine
> on/off 25 times....snip.... I had an engine hoist for the duration
> of the
> engine work...snip.
>
> Dennis and others:
> You people have a lot of good alternatives. Actually, I was
> planning on
> doing it quite differently. Since I am only a "wing" man perhaps
> you can
> straighten me out. My plan was to; unload the engine, build a
> stickframe
> engine stand (2"x4"), install a plywood plate patterned on the
> firewall, map
> both the plywood and the real firewall (a grid), work on the engine
> on the
> engine stand, work on the fuelage a few feet away, dertermine the
> control,
> wire and cable runs and mark them on the plywood, determine lengths,
> mark
> locations, etc., on the plywood, transfer measurements to the real
> firewall,
> mount the engine on the firewall to verify everything, remove
> engine, cut
> and drill the firewall, mount hardware, remount the engine. Since
> the
> engine is a lot heavier and more expensive than a bowling ball I was
> hoping
> that this technique would cut down the mountings from 25 - 30 to
> perhaps a
> half dozen. I just rambled here but this is the basic sequence, as
> I see
> it. AM I being a little naive here??? It seems to be a lot
> different than
> anything in the archives, etc. Seems logical!!!
> Ernest Kells
> RV-9A - Building Wings, Planning: O-235 Wood Prop
> Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Hall" <robjhall(at)earthlink.net> |
snip
> ... I believe that competency in any aircraft should include spin
> recovery and would like to hear comments from those who have
> successfully spun and recovered in 6A.
I think you are right, especially if you are going to do aerobatics (Also,
mastery of unusual attitude recoveries is a good idea). At the end my
testing period I did left and right 1-turn spins in my RV-6, using entry
pitch attitudes ranging from 15-40 deg nose high. I don't do them now
because I found that the airplane is so easy to recover from a developing
spin and because Van ( I believe) does recommend doing spins on a regular
basis. I expect that the 6 and 6A would have similar recovery
characteristics.
You might consider practicing a series of stall recoveries , progressively
delaying the recovery and adding rudder to start the spin rotation. Keep
going as your comfort level allows until you get to a fully developed spin.
My aircraft recovers immediately at any point by easing the stick forward
with some opposite rudder.
For any USAF pilot types out there, RV-6 spin entry behavior is very
similar to the T-37's. On nose low entries, the aircraft tends to roll over
before the nose drops while on nose high entries, the aircraft just falls
off on one side. The RV-6 pitch attitude in a spin is lower than the T-37
and the rotation rate is higher. Violent control inputs are not required
to recover from a spin in the RV-6.
FWIW my experience with my airplane. Your results may vary.
Bob Hall
RV-6, Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
Randy Lervold wrote:
> The funny thing is I viewed part of the video a couple of days ago at home
> on my cable modem connection and it was clearer. The audio was markedly
> clearly the other night as well. Last night I had time to view the whole
> thing so I sent back in and both the audio and video were significantly
> worse. Any explanation for this?
I guess you were viewing it as it came over the Net i.e. streaming
video?
If so, the quality depends on how much capacity is available on the Net
between the source and destination... if there's not enough capacity,
then some frames will be dropped so that it can still be played in real
time. The available capacity on the Net depends on lots of things.
Probably most significant is how many others are using the Net at the
same time. Best time for watching the video online would probably be
3-4am ;-)
For best quality, download the whole video to your PC *without* watching
it, using your Web browser's "Save Link As..." command. This may take
more than 32 minutes to download. Then play it from your PC.
Discalimer: I haven't actually looked at the video yet (only got a 56K
modem here... will be downloading it at work), so the above observations
are just from general knowledge and may not apply in this specific
situation.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator mounting |
You sound like Burt Rutan. He never found any water in Mojave either. BUT
if you move to a high humidity area, you will find water.
----- Original Message -----
From: <MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 4:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gascolator mounting
>
> I installed a gascolator in my kitfox and in 6 years of flying [
700+hrs ]
> i never found water in it. I live in the desert in calif.--used plastic
gas
> cans to transport prem. unleaded auto fuel [ rotax 912 requirement ] to
the
> airport where they sometimes sat for weeks before being used and never had
a
> fuel problem. Maybe i was just lucky but i agree that if you use a good
> inline filter and use your tank drains, you won't have a problem . just
a
> testimonial, not a flame. mike
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuse block location? |
Listers: I would greatly appreciate any ideas from you folks that have
finished or are in the process of wiring your -6/6As with "Lectric Bob's"
fuse blocks for where to mount the darn things. I'm trying to figure a
location that doesn't require becoming a contortionist to get at them to
replace a fuse but have drawn a blank so far.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff (front top skin still off).
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oregon Aero Seat Weight |
In a message dated 1/26/01 1:11:02 PM Pacific Standard Time, Lenleg(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< Oregon Aero seats. I have recently purchased the cores from them and
they weigh in at 11.5 pounds. >>
Each, or total for both?
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Wing - Wiring - Conduit ? |
Jack, you can't run though all tips. The inboard tips will be your tanks. So
why not take a little time and drill though main ribs? Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: leading edge rib warp |
> I also used a ready rod and threaded the nuts and washers the whole length
> to hold the ribs in place. In my opinion, I probably would not do it again
> that way just because it took too long to set up. It worked very well but I
> felt that I had more productive things to do in the shop than spin nuts on a
> rod.
Spin the nuts using a diegrider/scotch brite wheel, running the wheel
against the nuts moved them along real quick.
Doug Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 8A, I changed my building sequence of the forward belly skin |
Gert,
I appear to be just behind you. I have the tail skins riveted on and the
forward side skins appropriately dimpled, ctsk, etc and clecoed on. I was
looking at the assy. and wondering the same thing. I was going to rivet them
on this weekend on the premise that Van must have some reason for the assy.
order that I have not yet devined. The only thing I could figure was that
maybe the sides would be hard to do.
How far have you gotten and have you run into any problems by changing the
order?
Bill Christie, RV8A, fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2001 9:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: 8A, I changed my building sequence of the forward belly
skin
>
> I confess, I confess, I am a sinner, i purposely did not follow Van's
> building sequence......Okay enough bs
>
> Just thought to let all you 8A builders know what I used as a building
> sequence.
>
> It has bothered me for a while that for the 8A, one builds the floor and
> the forward sidepannels leaving the bottom row of rivets and the
> firewall row of rivets open. Then one turns the fuse rightside up and
> build the insides, only to flip it over again to install the cooling
> ramp and bottom skin with ribs.
>
> Now, on the 8, you have to deal with he landing gear, but on the 8A
> there is no such problem.
>
> I decided to do the floor and the bottom forward skins before I
> installed the forward sideskins. The advantage is accessebility whilst
> doing the various ribs and platenuts. as well as easier access to drill
> the holes in the cooling ramp where it meets the firewall.
>
> Also, with all rivets set, except the firewall ones, the fuse has to be
> a lot more sturdy. I just didn't like the forward skins to be only
> riveted along the top longeron and the F804 bulkhead and then moving the
> fuse around unjigged.
>
> The other thing I did, glansed from the list, is to do away with the
> hinge for the cooling ramp. only, I did not rebend the extra angle
> riveted to the 802Z, I fluted the stiffners on each side of the cooling
> ramp near the place where they meet the 802Z. This will force a curve in
> the cooling ramp, giving a nice transition with rounded corners from the
> cooling ramp to the belly.
>
> As always, your mileage my vary, but I am happy with the results and so
> was my bucking partner would did not have to stand in the forward echo
> chamber, surrounded by sheet metal, bucking floor rib rivets.....
>
> Gert
> --
>
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuse block location? |
Harry,
There are many ideas out there. Here are a few locations I have seen.
Passenger side wall above knee
Slide out tray on instrument panel
Hinged on the bottom of either the instrument panel or subpanel
Under a door fabricated to one side and in front of the wind screen
The slide out tray on the instrument panel was slick as the face of the tray
was a row of switches. It was the same size as a transponder or radio and
held in place by two screws.
Ross
> Listers: I would greatly appreciate any ideas from you folks that
have
> finished or are in the process of wiring your -6/6As with "Lectric Bob's"
> fuse blocks for where to mount the darn things. I'm trying to figure a
> location that doesn't require becoming a contortionist to get at them to
> replace a fuse but have drawn a blank so far.
>
> Harry Crosby
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Hall" <robjhall(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuse block location? |
>
> Listers: I would greatly appreciate any ideas from you folks that
have
> finished or are in the process of wiring your -6/6As with "Lectric Bob's"
> fuse blocks for where to mount the darn things. I'm trying to figure a
> location that doesn't require becoming a contortionist to get at them to
> replace a fuse but have drawn a blank so far.
My hangar mate (RV-4) mounted his on a hinged panel underneath the
instrument panel. It swings down and provides reasonable access to some
one sitting in the seat.
Bob Hall
RV-6, Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net> |
A couple years ago I asked Jim Cone this question because he had written an
article on the subject of spin training. He said "In an RV, the biggest
problem is that it un-nerves most people. The rotation rate is much faster
than what most people are expecting."
Tom Barnes
----- Original Message -----
From: The Razers <razer(at)midwest.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2001 10:27 PM
Subject: RV-List: spins
>
> I thought I'd resurrect an old thread about spin training.
>
> After receiving training in a variety of light aerobatics I've shy'ed
> away from spins and have never completed any in my 6A. It seems to me
> that somewhere in the distant past I read Van recommended "No Spins" in
> a 6A. I believe that competency in any aircraft should include spin
> recovery and would like to hear comments from those who have
> successfully spun and recovered in 6A.
>
> chet razer, 310 happy hours in Miss Chiquita
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 8A, I changed my building sequence of the forward belly |
skin
Hi Bill
I have found no problems yet from my altered building sequence.
As far as i can tell the original sequence stems from the -8. where you
have to install the landing gear construct afterwards.
The -8A, with its different landing gear poking through the bottom, it
seems to make sense to at least try and fit *ALL* bottom skins around
the landing gear sockets before turning right side up.
All in all, doing the bottom skins before doing the side skins seemed to
make for a better riveting sequence. This way you can also match drill
all skins before dimpeling. In the Van's sequence you have to drill&
dimple the side skins and angles and later on wiggle the bottom skin in
between. I did not dimple till all holes were drilled.
My fuse is out of the jig, right side up. I just noticed that those two
little ears for the center seat support, are rivited flush with the top
of the .063 angle. It looks like they have to be .063 below the surface
of the 3/4x3/4 support angles. I am sure i used the correct dims
drilling but I sure missed something. Would be nice if there was a front
view to show that these angles are lower or a reference to the drawing
which shows what these are for....i know...look ahead....
All in all I would do the same thing again with the forward skins.
Gert
Bill Christie wrote:
>
>
> Gert,
> I appear to be just behind you. I have the tail skins riveted on and the
> forward side skins appropriately dimpled, ctsk, etc and clecoed on. I was
> looking at the assy. and wondering the same thing. I was going to rivet them
> on this weekend on the premise that Van must have some reason for the assy.
> order that I have not yet devined. The only thing I could figure was that
> maybe the sides would be hard to do.
>
> How far have you gotten and have you run into any problems by changing the
> order?
>
> Bill Christie, RV8A, fuselage
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
> To: ; rv-list
> Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2001 9:31 PM
> Subject: RV-List: 8A, I changed my building sequence of the forward belly
> skin
>
> >
> > I confess, I confess, I am a sinner, i purposely did not follow Van's
> > building sequence......Okay enough bs
> >
> > Just thought to let all you 8A builders know what I used as a building
> > sequence.
> >
> > It has bothered me for a while that for the 8A, one builds the floor and
> > the forward sidepannels leaving the bottom row of rivets and the
> > firewall row of rivets open. Then one turns the fuse rightside up and
> > build the insides, only to flip it over again to install the cooling
> > ramp and bottom skin with ribs.
> >
> > Now, on the 8, you have to deal with he landing gear, but on the 8A
> > there is no such problem.
> >
> > I decided to do the floor and the bottom forward skins before I
> > installed the forward sideskins. The advantage is accessebility whilst
> > doing the various ribs and platenuts. as well as easier access to drill
> > the holes in the cooling ramp where it meets the firewall.
> >
> > Also, with all rivets set, except the firewall ones, the fuse has to be
> > a lot more sturdy. I just didn't like the forward skins to be only
> > riveted along the top longeron and the F804 bulkhead and then moving the
> > fuse around unjigged.
> >
> > The other thing I did, glansed from the list, is to do away with the
> > hinge for the cooling ramp. only, I did not rebend the extra angle
> > riveted to the 802Z, I fluted the stiffners on each side of the cooling
> > ramp near the place where they meet the 802Z. This will force a curve in
> > the cooling ramp, giving a nice transition with rounded corners from the
> > cooling ramp to the belly.
> >
> > As always, your mileage my vary, but I am happy with the results and so
> > was my bucking partner would did not have to stand in the forward echo
> > chamber, surrounded by sheet metal, bucking floor rib rivets.....
> >
> > Gert
> > --
> >
> > is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
> >
> >
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuse block location? |
HCRV6(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> Listers: I would greatly appreciate any ideas from you folks that have
> finished or are in the process of wiring your -6/6As with "Lectric Bob's"
> fuse blocks for where to mount the darn things. I'm trying to figure a
> location that doesn't require becoming a contortionist to get at them to
> replace a fuse but have drawn a blank so far.
You didn't state whether your RV-6 is a tipper or slider. Here are
details on the fuse block installation in my RV-6 tip-up:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/panel3.html
The block is very easy to reach once the canopy is opened. I have no
interest in being able to reach the fuses in flight since my wiring is
designed to allow a flight to continue regardless of what fuse may pop
(haven't had one to blow in 230 hrs).
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuse block location? |
I used 3 fuse blocks: main, avionics and always_live. They are bolted to
aluminum strips spanning the gap between the bottom lip of the instrument
panel and the bottom lip of the sub panel in the center of the panels. This
arrangement allows not only for fuse panels, but also strengthens the
instrument panel because of the support in the middle.
Brian Eckstein
6A Slider
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuse block location? |
> Listers: I would greatly appreciate any ideas from you folks that
have
> finished or are in the process of wiring your -6/6As with "Lectric Bob's"
> fuse blocks for where to mount the darn things. I'm trying to figure a
> location that doesn't require becoming a contortionist to get at them to
> replace a fuse but have drawn a blank so far.
>
> Harry Crosby
I made brackets which mount the fuse panels vertically, in the general area
of the rudder pedal support bracket.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "The Razers" <razer(at)midwest.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2001 11:27 PM
Subject: RV-List: spins
>
> I thought I'd resurrect an old thread about spin training.
>
> After receiving training in a variety of light aerobatics I've shy'ed
> away from spins and have never completed any in my 6A. It seems to me
> that somewhere in the distant past I read Van recommended "No Spins" in
> a 6A. I believe that competency in any aircraft should include spin
> recovery and would like to hear comments from those who have
> successfully spun and recovered in 6A.
I have been spinning my -6 in competition for a couple years. It spins just
fine up to 2 turns.
I dont spin beyond that because there is no need. If you havent seen enough
by 2 turns
you need a real acro machine. If you are going to spin, make sure you have a
chute on.
Also , do not kick until the plane actually stalls and the nose drops. Then
as soon as the stall breaks
, pull the stick all the way back and kick. Make sure that you dont put any
opposite aileron
in by mistake. When you are done , kick opposite rudder and as soon as the
rotation
starts to slow push stick toward neutral.Terry B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Hamelmann" <karlhamelmann(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 8A, I changed my building sequence of the forward belly skin |
Actually, Van had a reason for leaving the forward belly skins off. With
the fuselage riveting complete (minus belly skins), the fuselage is turned
upright. Interior items like floors, flap weldment, and rudder cables are
installed. Also the rudder pedal assembly and forward baggage compartment
side panel (F-871) are drilled to the floor. The fuselage is then turned
back upside-down and plate nuts are installed in the floor for the rudder
pedals and baggage compartment side panel. The landing gear is then
fit/drilled/removed and the forward skins are installed.
I guess you could drill the rudder pedal assembly and baggage compartment
side panel with the fuselage upside down, rivet in the plate nuts, and then
install the forward belly skins. It's up to you.
Karl Hamelmann
RV-8 N288K
Firewall forward and finish kit.
----- Original Message -----
From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 6:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 8A, I changed my building sequence of the forward
belly skin
>
> Hi Bill
>
> I have found no problems yet from my altered building sequence.
>
> As far as i can tell the original sequence stems from the -8. where you
> have to install the landing gear construct afterwards.
>
> The -8A, with its different landing gear poking through the bottom, it
> seems to make sense to at least try and fit *ALL* bottom skins around
> the landing gear sockets before turning right side up.
>
> All in all, doing the bottom skins before doing the side skins seemed to
> make for a better riveting sequence. This way you can also match drill
> all skins before dimpeling. In the Van's sequence you have to drill&
> dimple the side skins and angles and later on wiggle the bottom skin in
> between. I did not dimple till all holes were drilled.
>
> My fuse is out of the jig, right side up. I just noticed that those two
> little ears for the center seat support, are rivited flush with the top
> of the .063 angle. It looks like they have to be .063 below the surface
> of the 3/4x3/4 support angles. I am sure i used the correct dims
> drilling but I sure missed something. Would be nice if there was a front
> view to show that these angles are lower or a reference to the drawing
> which shows what these are for....i know...look ahead....
>
> All in all I would do the same thing again with the forward skins.
>
> Gert
> Bill Christie wrote:
> >
> >
> > Gert,
> > I appear to be just behind you. I have the tail skins riveted on and the
> > forward side skins appropriately dimpled, ctsk, etc and clecoed on. I
was
> > looking at the assy. and wondering the same thing. I was going to rivet
them
> > on this weekend on the premise that Van must have some reason for the
assy.
> > order that I have not yet devined. The only thing I could figure was
that
> > maybe the sides would be hard to do.
> >
> > How far have you gotten and have you run into any problems by changing
the
> > order?
> >
> > Bill Christie, RV8A, fuselage
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
> > To: ; rv-list
> > Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2001 9:31 PM
> > Subject: RV-List: 8A, I changed my building sequence of the forward
belly
> > skin
> >
> > >
> > > I confess, I confess, I am a sinner, i purposely did not follow Van's
> > > building sequence......Okay enough bs
> > >
> > > Just thought to let all you 8A builders know what I used as a building
> > > sequence.
> > >
> > > It has bothered me for a while that for the 8A, one builds the floor
and
> > > the forward sidepannels leaving the bottom row of rivets and the
> > > firewall row of rivets open. Then one turns the fuse rightside up and
> > > build the insides, only to flip it over again to install the cooling
> > > ramp and bottom skin with ribs.
> > >
> > > Now, on the 8, you have to deal with he landing gear, but on the 8A
> > > there is no such problem.
> > >
> > > I decided to do the floor and the bottom forward skins before I
> > > installed the forward sideskins. The advantage is accessebility whilst
> > > doing the various ribs and platenuts. as well as easier access to
drill
> > > the holes in the cooling ramp where it meets the firewall.
> > >
> > > Also, with all rivets set, except the firewall ones, the fuse has to
be
> > > a lot more sturdy. I just didn't like the forward skins to be only
> > > riveted along the top longeron and the F804 bulkhead and then moving
the
> > > fuse around unjigged.
> > >
> > > The other thing I did, glansed from the list, is to do away with the
> > > hinge for the cooling ramp. only, I did not rebend the extra angle
> > > riveted to the 802Z, I fluted the stiffners on each side of the
cooling
> > > ramp near the place where they meet the 802Z. This will force a curve
in
> > > the cooling ramp, giving a nice transition with rounded corners from
the
> > > cooling ramp to the belly.
> > >
> > > As always, your mileage my vary, but I am happy with the results and
so
> > > was my bucking partner would did not have to stand in the forward echo
> > > chamber, surrounded by sheet metal, bucking floor rib rivets.....
> > >
> > > Gert
> > > --
> > >
> > > is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
> > >
> > >
> >
>
> --
>
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
Shop online without a credit card
http://www.rocketcash.com
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Jantzi" <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | the mystery of the blurry video |
Apologies for the degradation in quality. Originally there was two
versions available for viewing, a 8meg and a 20 meg file. The problem
was the fact that I had "accidently" left these files on a server at a
former employers site. On the night of the "big release" their server
got hit pretty hard. They have a T1 line and their agreement with UUNET
is not to sustain more than 128k/second average over one month. My
brother, who works there, had to take them off because of the demand.
Doug Reeves of <http://www.vansairforce.net> fame is currently hosting
the smaller file which explains a change in quality if anyone has tried
to view it recently.
Now the good news. There are several other versions available. I have a
56K and 360K stream in Windows Media as well as the 56K Real Player
file. Doug is trying to locate a spot for all of them. Jared Boone
explained the process and file sizes very well. The 360K stream file is
aprox 80Megs. I am also working on a 1.5Meg stream that mimics the
original digital tape. Stay tuned/connected?
Terry Jantzi
Kitchener ON
RV-6 C-GZRV
http://www.netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/
http://www.ontariorvators.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 8A, I changed my building sequence of the forward belly |
skin
Hi karl
The only platenuts NOT accessible anymore with the belly skin on would
be the platenuts for the bagage compartment.
The platenuts for the rudder assy. are under the cooling ramp and
accesible till you put the coolingramp on. Other interior parts are not
affected by the forward belly skin.
The landinggear looks like to be only a factor on the -8 not the -8A
But like I said, you mileage my vary.
Gert
Karl Hamelmann wrote:
>
>
> Actually, Van had a reason for leaving the forward belly skins off. With
> the fuselage riveting complete (minus belly skins), the fuselage is turned
> upright. Interior items like floors, flap weldment, and rudder cables are
> installed. Also the rudder pedal assembly and forward baggage compartment
> side panel (F-871) are drilled to the floor. The fuselage is then turned
> back upside-down and plate nuts are installed in the floor for the rudder
> pedals and baggage compartment side panel. The landing gear is then
> fit/drilled/removed and the forward skins are installed.
>
> I guess you could drill the rudder pedal assembly and baggage compartment
> side panel with the fuselage upside down, rivet in the plate nuts, and then
> install the forward belly skins. It's up to you.
>
> Karl Hamelmann
> RV-8 N288K
> Firewall forward and finish kit.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 6:56 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: 8A, I changed my building sequence of the forward
> belly skin
>
> >
> > Hi Bill
> >
> > I have found no problems yet from my altered building sequence.
> >
> > As far as i can tell the original sequence stems from the -8. where you
> > have to install the landing gear construct afterwards.
> >
> > The -8A, with its different landing gear poking through the bottom, it
> > seems to make sense to at least try and fit *ALL* bottom skins around
> > the landing gear sockets before turning right side up.
> >
> > All in all, doing the bottom skins before doing the side skins seemed to
> > make for a better riveting sequence. This way you can also match drill
> > all skins before dimpeling. In the Van's sequence you have to drill&
> > dimple the side skins and angles and later on wiggle the bottom skin in
> > between. I did not dimple till all holes were drilled.
> >
> > My fuse is out of the jig, right side up. I just noticed that those two
> > little ears for the center seat support, are rivited flush with the top
> > of the .063 angle. It looks like they have to be .063 below the surface
> > of the 3/4x3/4 support angles. I am sure i used the correct dims
> > drilling but I sure missed something. Would be nice if there was a front
> > view to show that these angles are lower or a reference to the drawing
> > which shows what these are for....i know...look ahead....
> >
> > All in all I would do the same thing again with the forward skins.
> >
> > Gert
> > Bill Christie wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Gert,
> > > I appear to be just behind you. I have the tail skins riveted on and the
> > > forward side skins appropriately dimpled, ctsk, etc and clecoed on. I
> was
> > > looking at the assy. and wondering the same thing. I was going to rivet
> them
> > > on this weekend on the premise that Van must have some reason for the
> assy.
> > > order that I have not yet devined. The only thing I could figure was
> that
> > > maybe the sides would be hard to do.
> > >
> > > How far have you gotten and have you run into any problems by changing
> the
> > > order?
> > >
> > > Bill Christie, RV8A, fuselage
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
> > > To: ; rv-list
> > > Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2001 9:31 PM
> > > Subject: RV-List: 8A, I changed my building sequence of the forward
> belly
> > > skin
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I confess, I confess, I am a sinner, i purposely did not follow Van's
> > > > building sequence......Okay enough bs
> > > >
> > > > Just thought to let all you 8A builders know what I used as a building
> > > > sequence.
> > > >
> > > > It has bothered me for a while that for the 8A, one builds the floor
> and
> > > > the forward sidepannels leaving the bottom row of rivets and the
> > > > firewall row of rivets open. Then one turns the fuse rightside up and
> > > > build the insides, only to flip it over again to install the cooling
> > > > ramp and bottom skin with ribs.
> > > >
> > > > Now, on the 8, you have to deal with he landing gear, but on the 8A
> > > > there is no such problem.
> > > >
> > > > I decided to do the floor and the bottom forward skins before I
> > > > installed the forward sideskins. The advantage is accessebility whilst
> > > > doing the various ribs and platenuts. as well as easier access to
> drill
> > > > the holes in the cooling ramp where it meets the firewall.
> > > >
> > > > Also, with all rivets set, except the firewall ones, the fuse has to
> be
> > > > a lot more sturdy. I just didn't like the forward skins to be only
> > > > riveted along the top longeron and the F804 bulkhead and then moving
> the
> > > > fuse around unjigged.
> > > >
> > > > The other thing I did, glansed from the list, is to do away with the
> > > > hinge for the cooling ramp. only, I did not rebend the extra angle
> > > > riveted to the 802Z, I fluted the stiffners on each side of the
> cooling
> > > > ramp near the place where they meet the 802Z. This will force a curve
> in
> > > > the cooling ramp, giving a nice transition with rounded corners from
> the
> > > > cooling ramp to the belly.
> > > >
> > > > As always, your mileage my vary, but I am happy with the results and
> so
> > > > was my bucking partner would did not have to stand in the forward echo
> > > > chamber, surrounded by sheet metal, bucking floor rib rivets.....
> > > >
> > > > Gert
> > > > --
> > > >
> > > > is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> > --
> >
> > is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
> >
> >
>
> Shop online without a credit card
> http://www.rocketcash.com
> RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Minimim Thread Engagement |
Hi,
I am hooking up the mixture cable to the carb. What is the Minimum
required thread engagement of the rod end bearing to the threaded shaft
on the mixture cable? Where do I find this info in AC32-13A?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
Thawing out my garage, tools, airplane, and motivation.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum Thread Engagement |
In a message dated 1/27/01 8:19:07 AM Pacific Standard Time,
foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net writes:
<< I am hooking up the mixture cable to the carb. What is the Minimum
required thread engagement of the rod end bearing to the threaded shaft
on the mixture cable? Where do I find this info in AC32-13A? >>
I couldn't find it in AC43 either, but you want to extend into the bearing to
the witness hole provided in the bearing. Lacking a witness hole I would
shoot for 1.5 times the thread diameter for the thread (usually 10-32 or
.190") or .285". I believe one times the thread diameter is minimum for
structural strength based on the thread engagement provided by normal locking
nuts.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Minimim Thread Engagement |
There is a little peep hole in the side of the rod end bearing. the threads
must go past this hole.
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I am hooking up the mixture cable to the carb. What is the Minimum
> required thread engagement of the rod end bearing to the threaded shaft
> on the mixture cable? Where do I find this info in AC32-13A?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
> Thawing out my garage, tools, airplane, and motivation.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Johnson" <scottjohnson345(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Component structural failure could have caused a crash in my |
RV6a this week, appreciate advice to re-engineer.
I am passing this information along to my fellow RV'ers in hopes they will
not have this happen to them.
If any of you can provide any advice, I am sure many will benefit.
Background Info:
I have been flying 3 years and have approximately 175 hrs TT on my RV6A.
Engine is a Lycoming O-360 with Hartzel constant speed prop.
I generally have the front engine cowl off every 15 hours for a general
inspection.
To date, everything has worked well.
The throttle and prop control cables are the heavy duty high grade vernier
cables.
THE MIXTURE AND CARB HEAT ARE .050 SOLID WIRE PUSH PULL RATCHET CABLES.
All controls moved silky smooth and of course are aircraft grade.
Component Structural Failure:
-
While flying this week, when I went to put the carburator heat on,
the inside push-pull cable kept coming until the knob assembly ended up out
of the receiver.
It turns out that the end of the wire broke.
Could Have Been Deadly:
-
Had this been the mixture control wire, it could have caused a crash.
I am going to upgrade the mixture control assembly, so this does not happen.
Re-engineering Ideas
-
1.) Put a heavier duty cable on the mixture (like the throttle).
2.) Somehow put a spring on the mixture lever to put the mixture full rich
if the cable breaks.
I would appreciate knowing how many of you flying have had a cable break,
and what you did for a failsafe.
Thanks in Advance
P.S. I like the idea of a return spring, but am not sure how long it would
last with the
vibration in the engine compartment. What do you think ?
scottjohnson345(at)home.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RC Allen Artificial Horizon Measurement |
Listers, I need a favor from someone who has an RC Allen electric
artificial horizon and can take a good measurement of the face.
I'm drilling holes in my panel, and will have a blank-off plate where
the Horizon will go until its cost gets to the top of the "need to buy"
list. It's not there yet.
Having measured my other instruments, I'm finding no two the same size
(except for two fuel gauges). I want the thing to fit, but also want
to drill the hole for it now (the impatience of youth!). The mounting
holes I figure I can do when I do mount one.
If someone has this brand artificial horizon they've not installed yet
(will make it easier) would you measure it for me, please? I'm using
digital calipers but if you can get 1/32" resolution with a ruler,
that'll work.
:)
Thanks a bunch!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Panel
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Component structural failure could have caused a crash in |
my RV6...
In a message dated 1/27/01 3:38:42 PM Eastern Standard Time,
scottjohnson345(at)home.com writes:
> .
>
> Re-engineering Ideas
> -
> 1.) Put a heavier duty cable on the mixture (like the throttle).
> 2.) Somehow put a spring on the mixture lever to put the mixture full rich
> if the cable breaks.
>
> I would appreciate knowing how many of you flying have had a cable break,
> and what you did for a failsafe.
>
> Thanks in Advance
>
> P.S. I like the idea of a return spring, but am not sure how long it would
> last with the
>
The return spring is a good idea, even if one occasionally breaks (though
I've never heard of this being a problem). All you've gotta do is make sure
the spring and your mixture (or whatever) cable don't both break at the same
time! So, make both part of your inspection every time you pull the cowl.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Component structural failure could have caused a crash in |
my RV6...
In a message dated 01/27/2001 3:38:42 PM Eastern Standard Time,
scottjohnson345(at)home.com writes:
> P.S. I like the idea of a return spring, but am not sure how long it would
> last with the
> vibration in the engine compartment. What do you think ?
>
> scottjohnson345(at)home.com
>
>
I have a (hardware store) return spring from the mixture arm to the edge of
the FAB box... no problem with vibration, and I check it for adequate tension
every time I have the cable loose for maintenance (read: at major repair time
last month)... returns the arm to full rich just like it's supposed to.
Highly recommended.
My cable is a red-knobbed vernier with the pin-vise collet grip on the end,
terminated in, I believe, a 10-32 thread, attached to a rod end bearing for
connection to the mixture arm.
Not many worries with this arrangement, but you never know.
What are your thoughts about a return spring for the throttle? That wouldn't
be handy to lose, either.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP
Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Component structural failure could have caused a crash in |
my RV6a this week, appreciate advice to re-engineer.
Scott Johnson wrote:
>
> The throttle and prop control cables are the heavy duty high grade vernier
> cables.
> THE MIXTURE AND CARB HEAT ARE .050 SOLID WIRE PUSH PULL RATCHET CABLES.
> All controls moved silky smooth and of course are aircraft grade.
>
> Component Structural Failure:
> -
> While flying this week, when I went to put the carburator heat on,
> the inside push-pull cable kept coming until the knob assembly ended up out
> of the receiver.
> It turns out that the end of the wire broke.
>
> Could Have Been Deadly:
> -
> Had this been the mixture control wire, it could have caused a crash.
> I am going to upgrade the mixture control assembly, so this does not happen.
>
> Re-engineering Ideas
> -
> 1.) Put a heavier duty cable on the mixture (like the throttle).
> 2.) Somehow put a spring on the mixture lever to put the mixture full rich
> if the cable breaks.
>
> I would appreciate knowing how many of you flying have had a cable break,
> and what you did for a failsafe.
>
> Thanks in Advance
>
> P.S. I like the idea of a return spring, but am not sure how long it would
> last with the
> vibration in the engine compartment. What do you think ?
Hit this link and scroll down the page to see the mixture return spring
installation on my RV-6/O-320:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/engine4.html
The installation has 230 trouble free hours on it at this time. I too
was concerned about a mixture cable failure.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc.journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Norman, M.D." <jnorman(at)yourdoctor.com> |
| Subject: | Gascolator mounting |
Regarding deleting the gascolator...
What kind of fuel filters do listers recommend, and where do they put them?
-j
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jared Boone" <jboone(at)earfeast.com> |
| Subject: | Terry Jantzi's Iqaluit/RV-6 Video in HDTV Surround Sound! |
Well, not quite, but this is still pretty great... Doug Reeves wanted me to
tell you he has added several more video links to his Web site. You can now
view higher-quality versions of Terry and Lauren's trip to Iqaluit, Canada
in their RV-6.
"Primary Site": Watch the video "streaming" right off the Internet in Real
Player or Windows Media Player formats, suitable for your modem, ISDN, or
cable modem/DSL (broadband) Internet connection.
"Mirror site": Download and save the Real Player-format video to your
computer for posterity (and possibly better playback quality). Right now,
there's a low-quality 8MB file and medium-quality 20MB file available.
Stop by and check it out:
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/videos.htm
Doug also informs me that he has the 80MB, high-quality video file that
Terry had mentioned in an earlier e-mail. That file will be accessible for
download from Doug's site shortly. And if anybody has some spare Internet
Web server bandwidth to help spread the burden of everybody downloading this
popular video, contact Doug Reeves at:
vansairforce(at)hotmail.com
Thanks Doug. Enjoy,
- Jared
(who should be spending less time
playing with Internet video and
more time on his empennage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RC Allen Artificial Horizon Measurement |
> If someone has this brand artificial horizon they've not installed yet
> (will make it easier) would you measure it for me, please? I'm using
> digital calipers but if you can get 1/32" resolution with a ruler,
> that'll work.
> :)
>
> Thanks a bunch!
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
As measured with a ruler: 3 4/32" O.D.
As measured with a caliper: 3.115" O.D.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Component structural failure could have caused a crash in |
my RV6...
> > Re-engineering Ideas
> > -
> > 1.) Put a heavier duty cable on the mixture (like the throttle).
I took that approach. My throttle, mixture, and prop are all controlled
by A-750 controls from ACS. A rod end bearing connects the A-750s
to the appropriate points on the carb and governor. The vernier
control characteristics of the A-750 make it easy to adjust the throttle,
prop, and mixture for the power setting I want at the RPM I want, with
the mixture leaned quite precisely. Plans for throttle/mixture and
governor mounting brackets may be downloaded from my site for free.
Also available is the part number for the little fitting that attach the
control cables to the mounting brackets.
The down side is the A-750s are $56 each.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Gascolator mounting |
> What kind of fuel filters do listers recommend, and where do they put
> them?
I have FRAM G-3s (under $4 each) between the fuel tanks and the fuel
selector. I also have a G-3 between the fuel flow transducer and the
electric fuel pump. The later G-3 is to absorb pressure pulses which
were screwing up the fuel flow transducer. Cheap fix.
160 hours so far, and I'm happy with the FRAM filters. They even
come with the right hose size to attach them to the stock Vans fuel
lines.
I have a gascolator, and I'm keeping it on my plane.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel Estrada F." <dani_estrada(at)infosel.net.mx> |
| Subject: | K-1000-6 Plate Nut |
Hi listers...
Please help me, Do I have to drill to the correct size all the holes to
accept the K-1000-6 plate nuts for the rudder..?
I mean, the plate nuts simply dont fit in the predrilled holes and the
plans does not say anything about to enlarge that holes..
Thanks
Daniel Estrada F
Mexico City
RV6A Rudder
www.haveaplace.com/estrada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | K-1000-6 Plate Nut |
Daniel, If you're doing what I think you're doing, turn the nuts over. The
flat side goes against the spar. The extended part with the threads inside
doesn't go through the hole. The rod end goes in there later.
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Daniel Estrada
F.
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2001 6:32 PM
Subject: RV-List: K-1000-6 Plate Nut
Hi listers...
Please help me, Do I have to drill to the correct size all the holes to
accept the K-1000-6 plate nuts for the rudder..?
I mean, the plate nuts simply dont fit in the predrilled holes and the
plans does not say anything about to enlarge that holes..
Thanks
Daniel Estrada F
Mexico City
RV6A Rudder
www.haveaplace.com/estrada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Big day in Mo-Town! |
Modesto, that is.
Well, I was out in the garage looking at that brand new Bart LeBlonde beauty
hanging from my hoist (that sounds ... uh ... pretty bad) Anyway, I just
finished putting the final painting touches on my firewall and engine mount
and decided to see how the engine would fit.
I put the two top bolts in, they went in (fairly) easy. Just lower the
hoist a bit and jiggle the engine. That wasn't so hard. Put some washers
and castle nuts on, tighten it down a bit. Whew!
Now the manual says to invite some friends over to help hang the engine and
I was wondering if I should but I just couldn't resist. I put one of the
lower bolts in. That went in fairly easy too. Now all my friends were
getting ready for their super bowl parties and if I got stuck, there
wouldn't be anyone to help. I made up a drift pin from a scrap bolt and
lined up the 4th hole. A couple checks with the inspection mirror and
flashlight, raise the engine up a bit, drift pin in, wiggle a little, engine
bolt in, wiggle the enigne, pry the bushing to the side a bit, and the 4th
bolt was in! I quickly slipped on more washers and castle nuts and... wait
a minute! The engine is on, attached, hung! My engine done been hung!
So it's not a first flight or anything but it was a big deal to me. It got
the neighbor's attention too. "You're really going to fly that thing aren't
you?" Yep!
Now for the sanity check. The shorter bolts go on the top, longer ones on
the bottom. On the top I put the thicker bushing on the engine side of the
mount, on the bottom I put the thinner bushing on the engine side of the
mount. Also added a wide area washer between bushing and engine on the
bottom. Sound right or not? Boy am I jazzed I hope someone doesn't burst
my bubble.
Yep, great day in Mo-Town!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Cowan <terry(at)bidpage.com> |
| Subject: | New member looking for tools and equipment |
Hello guys,
I'm into sheet metal forming and always looking for old aircraft sheet
metal forming tools.
Does anyone know the whereabouts of any air planishing hammers or other
sheet metal tools?
______________
Terry Cowan
214-725-3389
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Build Sequence |
I too mounted the engine mount to the engine first, this is hte only way to
go.
Then using an engine hoist I positioned the engine into place and used only
the 2 top bolts to locate the engine on the firewall. Then I carefully
lowered the engine until the bottom of the mount touched the firewall. This
way I could locate holes that needed to go thru the firewall, remove the
engine, drill the holes reposition the engine again and check things. I have
positioned and removed the engine at least 5 or 6 times, only takes about 5 -
10 minutes and is sure easier than working around an installed engine.
John Danielson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 For Sale In Kansas |
RV-6 FOR SALE
Tail kit, wing kit, and fuselage kit.
Tail complete minus fiberglass, firewall, spars, and F-404 completed. Everything
primered inside. AP IA built in Wichita Kansas. Must sale due to buying nearly
completed RV-4.
Can build to suit for you (help you that is).Asking $8500.00. Please contact me
offline at 316-721-5670 andask for Todd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuse block location? |
>
>Listers: I would greatly appreciate any ideas from you folks that have
>finished or are in the process of wiring your -6/6As with "Lectric Bob's"
>fuse blocks for where to mount the darn things. I'm trying to figure a
I positioned the fuse blocks on the forward surface of the
subpanel. They rotate forward and down 180 degrees and in the down
position the fuse block faces aft for service.
The fuse blocks are mounted on a .032 AL plate with #8 flush head machine
screws, washers and all metal locking nuts. They are flush on the aft side
so that they fit flush to the forward surface of the sub panel. The areas
of copper exposed on the bottom of the fuse blocks cause me to sandwich a
1/16 piece of plastic sheet between the Fuse Block and the mounting plate
for added insulation and peace of mind.
The 20 fuse block master bus is on the pilot side and the 10 fuse block
avionics bus is on the copilot side. Note, I wish I had used a larger fuse
block for the avionics bus. The sub panel for a 20 fuse block is 6 inches
high by 8 inches wide. The fuse block is mounted 5/8 from the top and
flush with the inside edge. A 5/8 wide by 2 inch bracket with a 90 degree
bend is flush riveted to the forward face of the plate and positioned
flush with the top of the plate and above the fuse block. A hole with a
grommet becomes a fair lead for the wires attached to the push on
connectors in the top row. A similar bracket is riveted to just below the
fuse block and becomes the fair lead for the wires to the bottom row of
push ons. The 10 fuse block is 6 inches high by 5 inches wide and is
mounted 5/8 down from the top and flush with the inside edge of the
plate. The fuse blocks are mounted with the +12V input terminal on the
inside(closest to the centerline.) The wire feed to the fuse block is
fastened to the bottom of the subpanel about 12 inches from the terminal on
the block. This allows the fuse block and the heavy gage wire to rotate
180 degrees easily.
The plates with fuse blocks are mounted flush against the forward face of
the sub panel and flush with the bottom edge of the sub panel. The .032 AL
mounting plates are fastened to the sub panel with hinges. One half of
the hinge is flush riveted to forward face of the bottom edge of the of
the mounting plate. These rivets are flush on the aft side of the mounting
plate. The other hinge half is riveted to the bottom of the rear facing
flange on the sub panel. The hinge pin has a 90 degree bend in it to create
a handle for removing it if necessary. This handle clips to a retainer
made from a hinge eye. The fuse block can now rotate 180 degrees and face
aft for service.
This assembly is secured in the stowed up position by 2 nut plates on the
forward side top corners of the mounting plates. Two #8 machine screws
with a 1 inch diameter nob on one end go through the sub panel and engage
these nut plates.
Pictures of this installation and some snaps with the fuse blocks in
rotation can be seen at Terminal Town
http://www.terminaltown.com/
Print a label the width of the fuse block and the height of the space
between the 2 rows of fuses. Size the columns to fit the width of the fuse
block. Using a 4 by 10 matrix in Excel, enter the top fuse or circuit name
in the top row of a column and the fuse amp size in the second row of this
column. The third row can be the amp size of the bottom fuse and row 4 the
bottom fuse or circuit name. Print white on black and glue upside down
between row of fuses.
Bob
RV6A
Portland
http://www.easystreet.com/~bhaan/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Painting Jig Question - Two |
All,
Thanks for the replies to our previoius question regarding wing painting
jigs. Have a clarification for the question.
I our first post I forgot to memtion that we had the wing tips installed,
this does not allow any way of supporting the end of the wings.
We were thinnking about building some kind of jig that we could bolt the
wings together at the spar, but are concerned that that there would be no
support for the ends of the wings.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
Niantic, Ct & Westerly Airport
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Big day in Mo-Town! |
> Now for the sanity check. The shorter bolts go on the top, longer
> ones on
> the bottom. On the top I put the thicker bushing on the engine side
> of the
> mount, on the bottom I put the thinner bushing on the engine side of
> the
> mount. Also added a wide area washer between bushing and engine on
> the
> bottom. Sound right or not? Boy am I jazzed I hope someone doesn't
> burst my bubble.
I'm thinking yours is a bubble waiting to be burst.
:( - sorry to be the one to do it.
When we hung Bob Bolander's engine, we had all manner of help there -
it _was_ an engine hanging party. Turned out, everyone had a different
idea of how it ought to be done!
WRT the bushings, conventional wisdom and apparent logic dictated the
bushing go on as you describe, even though that was opposite the
directions in Van's manual.
You would think the thicker bushing would go at the top to prevent
engine sag but in reality the difference is in the _density_ of the two
bushings.
Yes, I know, having the thicker bushing at the top-engine side made it
easier to install as well, but...
The thinner bushing is actually more dense material (hard durometer -
measure of hardness) and the thicker is softer (soft durometer).
So, in accordance with the manual, figure 11-1, you got the bolts
right, but you have the bushings switched. At the top, it goes
ENG MOUNT->THICK BUSHING->ENG MOUNT CUP->THIN BUSHING->WASHER->BOLT
and at the bottom,
ENG MOUNT->LARGE WASHER->THIN BUSHING->ENG MOUNT CUP->THICK
BUSHING->WASHER->BOLT.
Believe me, we had folks there who had done it "backwards" and swore
the manual was wrong - we had folks who swore the manual was right -
then we had the folks who were actually trying to line up the bolts ...
and they just swore.
We called Tony Bingelis (who lives just up the road) and he said go
with the manual. So we did, and everything eventually went into place.
My advice - go with the manual.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Panel
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuse block location? |
Here is a more direct pointer to the pictures at Terminal Town of my fuse
block installation.
http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/Page89.html
Bob
I positioned the fuse blocks on the forward surface of the
>subpanel. They rotate forward and down 180 degrees and in the down
>position the fuse block faces aft for service.
. . . . . . . . . .
>Pictures of this installation and some snaps with the fuse blocks in
>rotation can be seen at Terminal Town
>
> http://www.terminaltown.com/
>
>
> Bob
> RV6A
> Portland
> http://www.easystreet.com/~bhaan/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Painting Jig Question - Two |
> I our first post I forgot to memtion that we had the wing tips
> installed,
> this does not allow any way of supporting the end of the wings.
of course! And so will I! I didn't even think of that
as I've followed this thread and thought, "Yeah, I'll do it _that_
way".
>
> We were thinnking about building some kind of jig that we could bolt
> the
> wings together at the spar, but are concerned that that there would
> be no
> support for the ends of the wings.
Well... these _are_ cantilevered wings. Bolting them together and
rotating the assembly would require a lot of space, and considering the
dihedral... but I don't think lack of support at the tips would be a
problem.
If you have a base which was heavy enough, the wings could be bolted to
it at the spar and rotated somehow... or even a way to mount the wing
spar and then counterbalance with something other than the other
wing...
I'm just brainstorming, here. But it's a good point. Attach tips,
prime and paint.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Panel (quite a ways away from painting, but always pre-planning!)
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Who Needs a Empannage/Wing Jig? |
I have finally finished my RV-4 Wings and I have a stand-up, moveable, wood
jig that I'd like to donate to another builder. I hate to cut it up as it is
a good jig. It has adjustable feet and is a stand alone jig. I live just
south of Atlanta, GA.
Any takers? I can send picts if anyone would like to see it.
Thanks
-Mike
(770) 957-9252
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Builders Bookstore <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Primer... |
I use it and like it. It has been operating trouble free in my 6A for 3 years.
It is only a valve, so you use it in combination with the electric boost pump.
With the boost pump running, open up the electric primer for 2-3 seconds. Then
close it, turn off the boost pump down, and crank the engine. It always starts
up quickly and easily, even in the cold.
And, even better yet, anything which eliminates runs of fuel line, especially in
the cabin, has got to be a good thing.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://buildersbooks.com
> Just wanted to solicit some opinions on electric primers....I plan to use a
> O-320 from vans and would like to install an electric priming
> system....anyone really like or dislike a certain type.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com |
| Subject: | RV8 Tie-Down Bracket Question ?? |
Hello Listers,
The plans call out .063x3/4x3/4 angle for mounting the bracket to the spar. Is
this correct? Do
I cut the angle from one of the three 12' peices of .063 stock supplied? Just
want to be sure.
Thanks,
Jack
DSM
RV8, wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuse block location? |
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
I made a slide out tray on the right side of the panel for mine.
Cecil Hatfield
>
> Listers: I would greatly appreciate any ideas from you folks
> that have
> finished or are in the process of wiring your -6/6As with "Lectric
> Bob's"
> fuse blocks for where to mount the darn things. I'm trying to
> figure a
> location that doesn't require becoming a contortionist to get at
> them to
> replace a fuse but have drawn a blank so far.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, finish kit stuff (front top skin still off).
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | RV8 Tie-Down Bracket Question ?? |
You are right - you can cut it from one of the 3 pieces. Make sure however,
that you don't thouch the 15 ft piece! I measured everything carefully from
the fuselage plans and found that I could cut all required pieces from one
of the supplied 12 ft pieces and still have enough for the fuselage
longerons. MEASURE THIS YOURSELF THOUGH! - just in case I am wrong.
I noticed in the last Rvator that these pieces will from now on be pre-made
with the flanges on them. Maybe Van's was tired of shipping out 15 ft
longerons to builders that used them for this purpose :)
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com
Sent: January 28, 2001 10:20 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV8 Tie-Down Bracket Question ??
Hello Listers,
The plans call out .063x3/4x3/4 angle for mounting the bracket to the spar.
Is this correct? Do
I cut the angle from one of the three 12' peices of .063 stock supplied?
Just want to be sure.
Thanks,
Jack
DSM
RV8, wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Component structural failure could have caused a crash in |
my RV6a this week, appreciate advice to re-engineer.
I would consider a spring on the mixture and throttle mandatory. (Full RICH
and full THROTTLE). I use the larger ACS control for the mixture, but it
has one of those "squeeze collets" on the end for the rod end. I worry
about cable failure at the squeeze point on the solid cable so I check it
religiously. Some ex-List'ers have experienced failures of this cable at
this point.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (115 hours)
> While flying this week, when I went to put the carburator heat on,
> the inside push-pull cable kept coming until the knob assembly ended up
out
> of the receiver.
> It turns out that the end of the wire broke.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Tie-Down Bracket Question ?? |
yes, however before proceeding, look through the archives and mark 2
pieces 106" and 2 pieces 58" (please check correct lenght in archives
!!) for the fuselage longerons.
I decided to take one of the .063x3/4x3/4 angles to cut all my angle
pieces and use the 2 remaining ones for the fuse. BIG MISTAKE.
You will end up cutting pieces off of each of the 3 angles. BUT BE SURE
YOU KEEP ENOUGH LENGHT FOR FUSE LONGERONS.
I didn't and ended up buying extra with the fuselage kit.....
Here is an area where a warning would be very helpfull, there is a
warning NOT to cut the main longerons, a small note regarding the bottom
and center fuse longerons would be greatly appreciated.
Gert
pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com wrote:
>
>
> Hello Listers,
> The plans call out .063x3/4x3/4 angle for mounting the bracket to the spar.
Is this correct? Do
> I cut the angle from one of the three 12' peices of .063 stock supplied? Just
want to be sure.
> Thanks,
> Jack
> DSM
> RV8, wings
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | RV8 Tie-Down Bracket Question ?? |
I'm not sure what you are building Gert, but I think the RV-8 may be
different since you can cut all pieces from one 12' piece. Maybe they have
supplied different stock with later kits. I attached a summary that I wrote
(thanks to hints from Kevin Horton):
From what I can see, for the RV-8 I need: (I'm not counting the 15' upper
longerons since these are .125 and already spoken for)
2 105" .063 3/4 x 3/4 (aft-lvr longerons - F-889)
2 57" .063 3/4 x 3/4 (aft-mid longerons - F-888)
The pieces that was delivered to me are:
3 pieces of 144" angle stock.
If I cut one of these in half, I will have enough for the 2 57"
pieces.
The other 2 will have 39" to spare.
So... It looks like I can cut all 4 tie down bar brackets from one 12' piece
(~32") and still have enough left for one 105" piece.
Maybe Van's started shipping longer pieces (or 3 as opposed to (2) 12'
pieces) but I can't see a big problem with this unless other shorther pieces
of same stock is not shipped with the fuselage kit.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of gert
Sent: January 28, 2001 11:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Tie-Down Bracket Question ??
yes, however before proceeding, look through the archives and mark 2
pieces 106" and 2 pieces 58" (please check correct lenght in archives
!!) for the fuselage longerons.
I decided to take one of the .063x3/4x3/4 angles to cut all my angle
pieces and use the 2 remaining ones for the fuse. BIG MISTAKE.
You will end up cutting pieces off of each of the 3 angles. BUT BE SURE
YOU KEEP ENOUGH LENGHT FOR FUSE LONGERONS.
I didn't and ended up buying extra with the fuselage kit.....
Here is an area where a warning would be very helpfull, there is a
warning NOT to cut the main longerons, a small note regarding the bottom
and center fuse longerons would be greatly appreciated.
Gert
pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com wrote:
>
>
> Hello Listers,
> The plans call out .063x3/4x3/4 angle for mounting the bracket to the
spar. Is this correct? Do
> I cut the angle from one of the three 12' peices of .063 stock supplied?
Just want to be sure.
> Thanks,
> Jack
> DSM
> RV8, wings
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Painting Jig Question - Two |
In a message dated 1/28/01 6:24:00 AM Eastern Standard Time,
crowbotham(at)hotmail.com writes:
> We were thinnking about building some kind of jig that we could bolt the
> wings together at the spar, but are concerned that that there would be no
> support for the ends of the wings.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
>
Have you painted something this big before? From my experience, one wing is
about all I want to screw up at a time... I might suggest doing it one wing
at a time, supporting the spar with a sawhorse, and suspending the tip end
from a cable attached to a bolt through an aileron bracket.
Good luck. Painting was absolutely the most difficult phase of my project.
The tanks and the canopy were clean and stress-free in comparison.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Tie-Down Bracket Question ?? |
Hmmm... Kevin mentioned 105 and 57
my memory server up 106 and 58, that must be my build in 1" safety
factor ;-)
The problem arises when you take only ONE piece and cut all wing angles
from that piece, soon you will find yourself short. maybe fubar one
piece and had to make it over, can't remember anymore
You are correct in that, as long as you cut ends off of TWO of the .063
angles you won't have any problems. I, like several others, did not and
used ONE to provide all pieces for the wing finding us a few inches
short.
And yes, I'm building an -8A....Kevin's mail came just a hair too late
for me at the time but it let me order a long enough piece with the fuse
kit.
Gert
Are Barstad wrote:
>
>
> I'm not sure what you are building Gert, but I think the RV-8 may be
> different since you can cut all pieces from one 12' piece. Maybe they have
> supplied different stock with later kits. I attached a summary that I wrote
> (thanks to hints from Kevin Horton):
>
> >From what I can see, for the RV-8 I need: (I'm not counting the 15' upper
> longerons since these are .125 and already spoken for)
>
> 2 105" .063 3/4 x 3/4 (aft-lvr longerons - F-889)
>
> 2 57" .063 3/4 x 3/4 (aft-mid longerons - F-888)
>
> The pieces that was delivered to me are:
>
> 3 pieces of 144" angle stock.
>
> If I cut one of these in half, I will have enough for the 2 57"
> pieces.
>
> The other 2 will have 39" to spare.
>
> So... It looks like I can cut all 4 tie down bar brackets from one 12' piece
> (~32") and still have enough left for one 105" piece.
>
> Maybe Van's started shipping longer pieces (or 3 as opposed to (2) 12'
> pieces) but I can't see a big problem with this unless other shorther pieces
> of same stock is not shipped with the fuselage kit.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of gert
> Sent: January 28, 2001 11:12 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Tie-Down Bracket Question ??
>
>
> yes, however before proceeding, look through the archives and mark 2
> pieces 106" and 2 pieces 58" (please check correct lenght in archives
> !!) for the fuselage longerons.
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gary francis <bumby31(at)yahoo.com> |
Dear list,
I am in the process of attaching my elevators, and as
per the plans, I am getting ready to backdrill through
the center HS bearing into the elevator horn. With
everything centered per the plans, it appears my hole
will be VERY close to the horn weldment. I did a quick
search of the archives to no avail.
1) Can I let out the elevator rod end bearings
about 1/8" past the plans 13/16"?
2) A buddy told me of a special bolt with a
conical head for just such tight spaces...any
thoughts?
Thanks, Gary Francis RV6A- Wing kit
ABX DC8 Capt, Lebanon, OH
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Painting Jig Question - Two |
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
I fashioned a piece of wood that exactly fit the landing light hole(not
the skin. Using that and the outside Aileron hard point, I made a five
foot plywood wheel and using care I can rotate the entire wing including
the tip, along with a stand at the inboard spar, using the same thing
others have described earlier on this thread.
Works fine. The weak point is the metal at the landing light. I haven't
bent it yet, but if I do, I can easily replace it. And if I don't, it
will never be seen by any one else.
Cecil Hatfield
On Sun, 28 Jan 2001 11:21:33 "Charles Rowbotham"
writes:
>
>
> All,
>
> Thanks for the replies to our previoius question regarding wing
> painting
> jigs. Have a clarification for the question.
>
> I our first post I forgot to memtion that we had the wing tips
> installed,
> this does not allow any way of supporting the end of the wings.
>
> We were thinnking about building some kind of jig that we could bolt
> the
> wings together at the spar, but are concerned that that there would
> be no
> support for the ends of the wings.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
> RV-8A
> Niantic, Ct & Westerly Airport
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Norman, M.D." <jnorman(at)yourdoctor.com> |
| Subject: | Component structural failure could have caused a crash in |
my RV6a this week, appreciate advice to re-engineer.
This issue is the topic of an in-depth article in this month's NTSB Reporter
(Vol 19, No 1, January 2001, pages 8-10). This is the case of a Cessna 210
which crashed (4 fatalities) 1.6 hours after an annual inspection where the
throttle cable was replaced because the old one was "sticky". The mechanic
apparently did not put a cotter pin in the castle nut which holds the
throttle cable to the throttle control arm. The pilot lost power at 500 ft
AGL just after takeoff and crash landed, with post-crash fire consuming the
entire plane. The NTSB found that the cause of the crash was the throttle
control cable coming off of the throttle control arm, leaving the throttle
control arm in the IDLE position.
With regards to the thread which discusses this topic, I would have to
assume that if this guy had a spring which made the throttle to go full
throttle upon the linkage coming off, he would not have crashed...he would
have figured it out when he tried to throttle back at some higher altitude,
then would have come in for a faster than normal landing. IMHO.
-j
6A, FWF
I would consider a spring on the mixture and throttle mandatory. (Full RICH
and full THROTTLE). I use the larger ACS control for the mixture, but it
has one of those "squeeze collets" on the end for the rod end. I worry
about cable failure at the squeeze point on the solid cable so I check it
religiously. Some ex-List'ers have experienced failures of this cable at
this point.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Minimim Thread Engagement |
Glenn:
One-and-a-half diameters is a common rule of thumb, though I haven't been
able to find a reference for it.
Tedd McHenry
Van's Air Force
Western Canada Wing
tedd(at)vansairforce.org
http://www.vansairforce.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Break-In Period |
Actually Bruce I don't/didn't have a problem. At 35 hours on my Bart
LaLonde O360A1A with new ECI nitride cylinders the oil consumption
stabilized. At the 26 hour mark I was burning a quart every 4 hours and at
35 hours it was about a quart every 7 hours. Now at 41 hours it is
difficult to measure the rate on just a 4 hour interval but the rate seems
to be about a quart every 10 hours. Both Bart and my IA RV guru told me
that it is not uncommon for the break-in to last as long as 50 hours and
they were correct.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 41 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 1:21 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Break-In Period
>
>Cylinder break-in time is usually determined by cylinder wall type,
>
>New Lycoming - (nitrided) normally takes 10-15 hours.
>
>Used Lycoming - Oversized (nitrited) - same as new.
>
>CermiNil - (Nickel/chrome) - 1 hour.
>
>Straight Chrome - 40 to 50 hours.
>
>So if you have new/oversized/cerminil cylinders and you're still burning 1
qt/4
>hours then I'd say you have a problem. You might have to pull the jugs and
hone
>the cylinders and start your break-in all over.
>
>BTW, the most accurate way to tell if the rings have set is that you will
see a
>20/30 degree drop in CHT at the same power setting. If you're running
cerminil
>cylinders, you can see the rings seat via CHT drop while the engine is
still on
>the test stand. Normally happens in the first 30 minutes of run time.
>
>Bruce
>Glasair III
>
>Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
>>
>> > I have not yet been able to prove the fuel efficiency claims for my
LASAR
>> > system because after 26 hours my rings are not yet seated, so I'm still
>> > running 75% or more. I bought the LASAR because
>> > I felt it would provide better fuel efficiency, easier starting and
>> longer
>> > plug life. Time will tell.
>>
>> Dennis,
>> I too have an O-360 from Bart with the LASAR. How can you tell your rings
>> have not seated, oil consumption? Just curious so I'll know when I get
>> there.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Randy Lervold
>> www.rv-8.com
>>
>> Two methods to establish breakin:
>>
>> 1) My oil consumption remains at one quart every 4 hours. This is two to
>> three times what it should be.
>>
>> 2) At 25 hours I did a compression check. Values were 70/80 to 72/80 and
we
>> could hear air hissing out the breather, indicating ring leakage.
>>
>> I had spectral oil analysis performed at 25 hours and all parameters were
in
>> the range of normal wear rates. I'll continue that every oil change.
>>
>> By the way, we had a hard time getting the oil filter off. I had read an
>> earlier posting about that problem with Bart's engine. If your engine is
>> not mounted yet, you might loosen the filter, apply DC4 and retorque.
You
>> must check for filter leaks after each oil change by running the engine
for
>> a minute or two and thus there is little danger in too loose a filter
>> torque -- too tight can make it difficult to remove the filter.
>>
>> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 26 hours
>> Hampshire, IL C38
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RC Allen Artificial Horizon Measurement |
In a message dated 1/27/01 4:12:46 PM Eastern Standard Time,
grobdriver(at)yahoo.com writes:
<<
Listers, I need a favor from someone who has an RC Allen electric
artificial horizon and can take a good measurement of the face.
>>
Mike,
I used the metal drilling jig from Avery (I believe) and it worked out fine
for my RC ALLEN electric horizon.
Dale Ensing
6A finishing
Aero Plantation NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Builder Assistance available!! |
Builder Assistance is now available in Wichita Kansas. Wiechman Aircraft
Inc. has an opening available for any RV-series aircraft. Can help build
entire kit to flying condition or help with any stage along the way. I am an
Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic with Inspection Authorization and have more
than 12 years experience with building metal aircraft. If you need
assistance, please call Todd at 316-721-5670 and we can discuss your
specific needs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Break-In Period |
Dennis are the ECI cylinders nitrided using crome rings .I thought ECI
was CERMI-NIL using cast iron rings ?? Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Break-In Period |
They have cerminil and through hardened cylinders. To the best of my
knowledge they are not nitrided.
"BOBE." wrote:
>
> Dennis are the ECI cylinders nitrided using crome rings .I thought ECI
> was CERMI-NIL using cast iron rings ?? Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator attach |
Gary - Use option #1 and let out the hinge bearings a little - All four
bearings will need to be moved out equally to keep the alignment correct. A
side benefit will be to increase clearance between the aft horizontal
stabilizer skin edge and the elevator nose at full deflection.
Douglas G. Murray
Southern Alberta RV-6 C-GRPA
> Dear list,
>
> I am in the process of attaching my elevators, and as
> per the plans, I am getting ready to backdrill through
> the center HS bearing into the elevator horn. With
> everything centered per the plans, it appears my hole
> will be VERY close to the horn weldment. I did a quick
> search of the archives to no avail.
> 1) Can I let out the elevator rod end bearings
> about 1/8" past the plans 13/16"?
> 2) A buddy told me of a special bolt with a
> conical head for just such tight spaces...any
> thoughts?
>
>
> Thanks, Gary Francis RV6A- Wing kit
> ABX DC8 Capt, Lebanon, OH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | brietigam:"First brietigam:Last" <brietigam(at)earthlink.net> |
I have tried to get into contact with the good people at Custom Ducts of
Pendleton, Oregon but without luck. I believe they sold their business
to another concern. Does anyone have the new address and/or telephone
number??
Thanks, Chuck Brietigam, RV-3 flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Break-In Period |
Glad things worked out for you.
Bruce
Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
> Actually Bruce I don't/didn't have a problem. At 35 hours on my Bart
> LaLonde O360A1A with new ECI nitride cylinders the oil consumption
> stabilized. At the 26 hour mark I was burning a quart every 4 hours and at
> 35 hours it was about a quart every 7 hours. Now at 41 hours it is
> difficult to measure the rate on just a 4 hour interval but the rate seems
> to be about a quart every 10 hours. Both Bart and my IA RV guru told me
> that it is not uncommon for the break-in to last as long as 50 hours and
> they were correct.
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 41 hours
> Hampshire, IL C38
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 1:21 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Break-In Period
>
> >
> >Cylinder break-in time is usually determined by cylinder wall type,
> >
> >New Lycoming - (nitrided) normally takes 10-15 hours.
> >
> >Used Lycoming - Oversized (nitrited) - same as new.
> >
> >CermiNil - (Nickel/chrome) - 1 hour.
> >
> >Straight Chrome - 40 to 50 hours.
> >
> >So if you have new/oversized/cerminil cylinders and you're still burning 1
> qt/4
> >hours then I'd say you have a problem. You might have to pull the jugs and
> hone
> >the cylinders and start your break-in all over.
> >
> >BTW, the most accurate way to tell if the rings have set is that you will
> see a
> >20/30 degree drop in CHT at the same power setting. If you're running
> cerminil
> >cylinders, you can see the rings seat via CHT drop while the engine is
> still on
> >the test stand. Normally happens in the first 30 minutes of run time.
> >
> >Bruce
> >Glasair III
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chris <rv6(at)ssc.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Build Sequence |
Keep it simple. I put on my engine as soon as I could . Had no problem
mounting anything on the firewall, just drilled from the inside. Dont make work
for yourself.
Chris RV6 canopy frame Tip up
Broadford Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Mounting Compass RV-6 Tip-up |
Hi,
I am ready to mount the compass to the Glareshield (C602) on my RV-6
Tip-up. I am a bit apprehensive about mounting the compass to this thin
metal. I figured it would be vibrating a bit, after all, it does seem
rather flimsy. If I rivet a doubler to the skin, it to would simply
flex where it connects to the glareshield. The compass has a 3 hole
mounting pattern with one hole at the front of the compass base, and two
holes at the aft side of the compass base. I could probably get the
forward hole lined up with the tubular section of the WD616D Canopy
frame, but that might actually make the problem worse. What have other
builders done here? Is the vibration or flex such a significant problem
that I actually have a legitimate concern here?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Mounting Compass RV-6 Tip-up |
Glenn Judi: On my last RV-6 tip up I had a Airpath Compass
mounted on the center of the glare shield with the three brass screws. It
worked very well no problem after 6 years of service. If you are worried about
strength you could use an aluminum doubler under the glare shield.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB - almost finished
----- Original Message -----
From: Glenn
Judi
Sent: 1/28/2001 8:47:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: Mounting Compass RV-6
Tip-up
-- RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Judi" foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net
Hi,
I am ready to mount the compass to the Glareshield (C602) on my RV-6
Tip-up. I am a bit apprehensive about mounting the compass to
this thin
metal. I figured it would be vibrating a bit, after all, it does
seem
rather flimsy. If I rivet a doubler to the skin, it to would
simply
flex where it connects to the glareshield. The compass has a 3
hole
mounting pattern with one hole at the front of the compass base, and
two
holes at the aft side of the compass base. I could probably get
the
forward hole lined up with the tubular section of the WD616D Canopy
frame, but that might actually make the problem worse. What have
other
builders done here? Is the vibration or flex such a significant
problem
that I actually have a legitimate concern here?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
http://www.matronics.com/order
--- Harvey Sigmon
--- flyhars(at)earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Compass RV-6 Tip-up |
Glenn - I have mine mounted in the same place with no doubler and have no
problems. The only thing to watch for when mounting is to be sure that the
forward most single compass mount hole is ahead of the tubular bar under the
glareshield. You will need to drill a small hole in the forward compass base
to let the lighting wires exit because if you just drill a hole through the
glareshield below the compass the wires will end up in front of the
instrument panel. My wires go through the glare shield just ahead of the
compass base. Leave the wires long and have a quick disconnect so that you
can still remove the canopy quickly.
Douglas G. Murray
Southern Alberta RV-6 C-GRPA
> Hi,
>
> I am ready to mount the compass to the Glareshield (C602) on my RV-6
> Tip-up. I am a bit apprehensive about mounting the compass to this thin
> metal. I figured it would be vibrating a bit, after all, it does seem
> rather flimsy. If I rivet a doubler to the skin, it to would simply
> flex where it connects to the glareshield. The compass has a 3 hole
> mounting pattern with one hole at the front of the compass base, and two
> holes at the aft side of the compass base. I could probably get the
> forward hole lined up with the tubular section of the WD616D Canopy
> frame, but that might actually make the problem worse. What have other
> builders done here? Is the vibration or flex such a significant problem
> that I actually have a legitimate concern here?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Break-In Period |
-----Original Message-----
From: BOBE. <RVPilot4(at)webtv.net>
Date: Sunday, January 28, 2001 2:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Break-In Period
>
>Dennis are the ECI cylinders nitrided using crome rings .I thought ECI
>was CERMI-NIL using cast iron rings ?? Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL.
>
I requested and received new nitrided cylinders. At the time Bart charged
me $1000 total additional for new cylinders. The color coding on the
cylinders is blue. I believe that is the code for nitride.
Dennis 6A N600DP 41 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | RV wiring estimates |
Listers,
Can anyone give me an estimate of how many feet of each gauge of Tefzel
wire (22-8) they used in their projects?
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A fuselage fabricating lots of little parts from stock
Boca Raton, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mell" <kitplane(at)tradezone.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 AFP Fuel Filter/Pump System (pics) |
Below is a link to install pictures of Ross Briegleb and Hutch's Airflow
Performance fuel filter and fuel pump system on their RV-6. This plane has
some real clean installs and enhancements.
http://www.kitplaneforum.com/ubb/Forum13/HTML/000005.html
Mell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | UHMW Thermal Properties |
Hi,
Is anyone familiar with the thermal properties of UHMW Polyethylene? I
am working on the rear window installation on an RV-6 Tip up. The
manual calls for a 1/2" wide .020 Aluminum strip to serve as a large
area washer to distribute the presuure from a blind rivet. I plan on
using 4-40 flat head machine screws in place of the rivets (any reason
not to?). If I could heat and rebend a UHMW strip to the compound curve
of the window, the strip could serve as the "Nut" for the 4-40 screws.
Will UHMW reshape by heating? This would be similar to the use of
UHMW on the sides of the tip-up portion of the canopy. Another idea I
am considering is the use of a combination of #4 fender washers and low
profile lock nuts. Any help, suggestions, or other ideas are greatly
appreciated.
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Yohannes Kayir" <yohannkayir(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV4 engine mounting prep |
Fellow Listers,
this week I am hanging on my O-360 A1A from Van's with a Hartzell C/S prop
on my RV-4. "Van's Accessories Catalog 2000" page 7 talks about mechanical
fuel pump fittings, in particular RV4 mechanical fuel pump overflow fitting;
that a standard AN fitting won't clear the RV4 firewall.
It sounds like I have to get this 1/8" plug and install it before I hang the
engine on!
Please confirm. Any additional advice (things to do prior to and during
hanging the engine) would be appreciated.
Fulelage bottom skin is riveted in place, intend to leave top nose and
forward side skins off. What say you?
Thanks in advance.
Yohann
Pensacola, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | Component structural failure |
Scott,
I have had two failures of the solid wire carb heat control in the 7.75
Yrs, 1730 Hrs of flying in my RV-6A. After the first one, (and because of
the door hinge wear) I installed a spring that would always open the door if
the push/pull control failed.
I would not use this type of control for the mixture as I don't like the
possible failure modes. I also wanted a more precise control range on the
mixture, so I used the standard vernior type control.
You must always consider the failure mode of all your controls. If a
single failure CAN cause a serious in flight problem, then consider an
alternate method. I fly a lot of IFR, so I want a very dependable, safe
ship, that is tolerant of small failures.....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV (1730 hrs/7.5+ Yrs)
E. Windsor, CT 06088
WK Email: stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com
Hm/Travel Email: wstucklen1(at)juno.com
____
From: "Scott Johnson" <scottjohnson345(at)home.com>
Subject: RV-List: Component structural failure could have caused a
crash in my RV6a this week, appreciate advice to re-engineer.
I am passing this information along to my fellow RV'ers in hopes
they will
not have this happen to them.
If any of you can provide any advice, I am sure many will benefit.
Background Info:
I have been flying 3 years and have approximately 175 hrs TT on my
RV6A.
Engine is a Lycoming O-360 with Hartzel constant speed prop.
I generally have the front engine cowl off every 15 hours for a
general
inspection.
To date, everything has worked well.
The throttle and prop control cables are the heavy duty high grade
vernier
cables.
THE MIXTURE AND CARB HEAT ARE .050 SOLID WIRE PUSH PULL RATCHET
CABLES.
All controls moved silky smooth and of course are aircraft grade.
Component Structural Failure:
-
While flying this week, when I went to put the carburator heat on,
the inside push-pull cable kept coming until the knob assembly ended
up out
of the receiver.
It turns out that the end of the wire broke.
Could Have Been Deadly:
-
Had this been the mixture control wire, it could have caused a
crash.
I am going to upgrade the mixture control assembly, so this does not
happen.
Re-engineering Ideas
-
1.) Put a heavier duty cable on the mixture (like the throttle).
2.) Somehow put a spring on the mixture lever to put the mixture
full rich
if the cable breaks.
I would appreciate knowing how many of you flying have had a cable
break,
and what you did for a failsafe.
Thanks in Advance
P.S. I like the idea of a return spring, but am not sure how long it
would
last with the
vibration in the engine compartment. What do you think ?
scottjohnson345(at)home.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 engine mounting prep |
Yohannes Kayir wrote:
>
> It sounds like I have to get this 1/8" plug and install it before I hang the
> engine on!
>
I used an 0360 and used a fuel pump bought from El Reno aviation. I didn't
have any trouble mounting the fuel pump and fitting with the engine on the
plane.(RV-4)
>
> Please confirm. Any additional advice (things to do prior to and during
> hanging the engine) would be appreciated.
>
I mounted the engine and then installed everything else. It does get a
little crouded back there though.
>
> Fulelage bottom skin is riveted in place, intend to leave top nose and
> forward side skins off. What say you?
>
I did all mine with the side skins in place. but it probably have been a
little easier with the side skins off.
> Carroll Bird, Buffalo Gap TX RV-4 (150) hours now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: UHMW Thermal Properties |
Glenn, I can't answer your question regarding UHMW, but regarding the
installation, I can. I used stainless #6 Screws and low profile lock nuts
throughout the canopy. I thought the UHMW was tacky looking, and didn't
make alot of sense. I'm glad I did, because in the finish process, I've had
to take out my rear window to work on the wiring...made a huge difference.
Pop rivets and plexi scare me, and I wanted to add the functionality of
being able to remove the rear window.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 3:46 AM
Subject: RV-List: UHMW Thermal Properties
>
> Hi,
> Is anyone familiar with the thermal properties of UHMW Polyethylene? I
> am working on the rear window installation on an RV-6 Tip up. The
> manual calls for a 1/2" wide .020 Aluminum strip to serve as a large
> area washer to distribute the presuure from a blind rivet. I plan on
> using 4-40 flat head machine screws in place of the rivets (any reason
> not to?). If I could heat and rebend a UHMW strip to the compound curve
> of the window, the strip could serve as the "Nut" for the 4-40 screws.
> Will UHMW reshape by heating? This would be similar to the use of
> UHMW on the sides of the tip-up portion of the canopy. Another idea I
> am considering is the use of a combination of #4 fender washers and low
> profile lock nuts. Any help, suggestions, or other ideas are greatly
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV wiring estimates |
Tough question...I thought I had enough, and time after time, I was ordering
more. Alot of factors...how complicated is your panel? How many things
require wiring to the cabin, etc, etc. I would order much more than you
need, and sell the rest to a local builder, because you most certainly will
order more. The van's wiring kit (not the harness, just the wire) does not
come close to having enough. Here is my guestimate, but by no means is set
in stone:
22: 150' (avionics)
18: 75' (avionics)
14: 75' (lights)
12: (not sure if you'll need it)
10: (I think this is what I used on my alternator and buss wires)
8: 10' (Battery, ground, etc)
2 conducter shielded: 75' (for audio and mike wires)
3 conducter shielded: 30' (for a few engine sensors)
This is only a guidline, but go ahead and spend the money and pad your
estimates..you will need to order more wire. George Orndorff has good
prices on this wire, he sells tefzel without the markings, so it is far less
cheaper.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2001 8:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV wiring estimates
>
> Listers,
> Can anyone give me an estimate of how many feet of each gauge of Tefzel
> wire (22-8) they used in their projects?
> Charlie Kuss
> RV-8A fuselage fabricating lots of little parts from stock
> Boca Raton, Fl.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rpflanze(at)iquest.net |
| Subject: | Re: RV vs Fiberglass |
To whomever posted the original question (My ISP lost a bunch of e-mails over
the weekend), I've built both a Long-EZ and a RV-6. I can give you a blow-by-blow
of the pros and cons of building one over the other. Send me e-mail direct
to rpflanze(at)iquest.net (If they don't lose it!)
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (115 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Primer... |
In a message dated 1/28/01 5:14:31 PM Eastern Standard Time,
winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com writes:
<< If I'm missing something here, please let me know. >>
No, not at all Andy. I was trying to learn something. I thought (not sure
where I got the idea) that with a low wing (tanks) airplane you usually
started with the boost pump on. Most of my flying has been in gravity feed
fuel situations with only mechanical engine fuel pumps. Thanks for the info.
Dale Ensing
not yet flying RV-6A but maybe this year!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 engine mounting prep |
Yohann;
I had no problem screwing the special overflow fuel fitting on to the
pump and then installing the pump (all after the engine is mounted). I
wouldn't attempt mounting the engine with accessories on it!
By the way, have we ever figured out why Van's didn't change something
in the plans (like the deminsions of the firewall) to clean this little
problem up? I have the part installed, still only 1/8" seperation. I
plan to shim the engine on the mount!
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
Yohannes Kayir wrote:
>
>
> Fellow Listers,
>
> this week I am hanging on my O-360 A1A from Van's with a Hartzell C/S prop
> on my RV-4. "Van's Accessories Catalog 2000" page 7 talks about mechanical
> fuel pump fittings, in particular RV4 mechanical fuel pump overflow fitting;
> that a standard AN fitting won't clear the RV4 firewall.
>
> It sounds like I have to get this 1/8" plug and install it before I hang the
> engine on!
>
> Please confirm. Any additional advice (things to do prior to and during
> hanging the engine) would be appreciated.
>
> Fulelage bottom skin is riveted in place, intend to leave top nose and
> forward side skins off. What say you?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Yohann
> Pensacola, Fl.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV4 engine mounting prep |
In a message dated 1/29/2001 5:26:44 AM Central Standard Time,
yohannkayir(at)hotmail.com writes:
> It sounds like I have to get this 1/8" plug and install it before I hang the
> engine on!
>
>
If you don't put it on first you will have to remove the fuel pump to
install. I was able to install all other components with the engine inplace.
These include inverted oil, oil cooler, heat box, muffs, filter kit, filter,
all transducers, all hoses, and fittings.
-4, 78hrs
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV4 engine mounting prep |
In a message dated 1/29/2001 5:26:44 AM Central Standard Time,
yohannkayir(at)hotmail.com writes:
> Fulelage bottom skin is riveted in place, intend to leave top nose and
> forward side skins off. What say you?
>
>
You might want to rivet the sides skins now, I remember having to modify a
bucking bar for those, because the engine mount to firewall being in the way.
Carey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Berryhill" <dwberryhill(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: RV-6 AFP Fuel Filter/Pump System (pics) |
> Below is a link to install pictures of Ross Briegleb and Hutch's Airflow
> Performance fuel filter and fuel pump system on their RV-6. This plane has
> some real clean installs and enhancements.
>
> http://www.kitplaneforum.com/ubb/Forum13/HTML/000005.html
>
> Mell
Very nice! Regarding the last photo, what is a purge valve?
Dave Berryhill
RV-0
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | RV4 engine mounting prep |
Well, as it turns out I just hung my engine on my RV-4 this past weekend!
My advice would be to get the overflow fitting for your fuel pump and
install it before you hang your engine. Mine would not be installable with
the engine bolted on. Also, you might want to consider installing the side
skins before hanging the engine, I don't know how much the longerons will
sag (if at all) without the skins' stiffening effect. Also, I intend to
route some of my engine wiring through the side skins (under the cheek
cowls) to minimize firewall penetrations.
That's all I have done so far. Any holes I have to drill in the firewall
will have to be done with the engine in the way. But I tell you, that
engine sure looks good sitting on the front of the plane.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Yohannes Kayir [mailto:yohannkayir(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 3:25 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: RV4 engine mounting prep
Fellow Listers,
this week I am hanging on my O-360 A1A from Van's with a
Hartzell C/S prop
on my RV-4. "Van's Accessories Catalog 2000" page 7 talks
about mechanical
fuel pump fittings, in particular RV4 mechanical fuel pump
overflow fitting;
that a standard AN fitting won't clear the RV4 firewall.
It sounds like I have to get this 1/8" plug and install it
before I hang the
engine on!
Please confirm. Any additional advice (things to do prior
to and during
hanging the engine) would be appreciated.
Fulelage bottom skin is riveted in place, intend to leave
top nose and
forward side skins off. What say you?
Thanks in advance.
Yohann
Pensacola, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Big day in Mo-Town! |
Mike said "
So, in accordance with the manual, figure 11-1, you got the bolts right, but
you have the bushings switched. At the top, it goes ENG MOUNT->THICK
BUSHING->ENG MOUNT CUP->THIN BUSHING->WASHER->BOLT and at the bottom, ENG
MOUNT->LARGE WASHER->THIN BUSHING->ENG MOUNT CUP->THICK
BUSHING->WASHER->BOLT.
"
Nope, I got it right. Because what you describe above is actually what I
did. This is what is in fig 11-1. I triple checked, even taking a short
break so I could come back and see what I messed up before final attachment.
Maybe I didn't describe what I did adequately.
--
Scott (bubble still intact for now) VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Thompson [mailto:grobdriver(at)yahoo.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2001 3:31 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Big day in Mo-Town!
> Now for the sanity check. The shorter bolts go on the
top, longer
> ones on
> the bottom. On the top I put the thicker bushing on the
engine side
> of the
> mount, on the bottom I put the thinner bushing on the
engine side of
> the
> mount. Also added a wide area washer between bushing and
engine on
> the
> bottom. Sound right or not? Boy am I jazzed I hope
someone doesn't
> burst my bubble.
I'm thinking yours is a bubble waiting to be burst.
:( - sorry to be the one to do it.
When we hung Bob Bolander's engine, we had all manner of
help there -
it _was_ an engine hanging party. Turned out, everyone had
a different
idea of how it ought to be done!
WRT the bushings, conventional wisdom and apparent logic
dictated the
bushing go on as you describe, even though that was opposite
the
directions in Van's manual.
You would think the thicker bushing would go at the top to
prevent
engine sag but in reality the difference is in the _density_
of the two
bushings.
Yes, I know, having the thicker bushing at the top-engine
side made it
easier to install as well, but...
The thinner bushing is actually more dense material (hard
durometer -
measure of hardness) and the thicker is softer (soft
durometer).
So, in accordance with the manual, figure 11-1, you got the
bolts
right, but you have the bushings switched. At the top, it
goes
ENG MOUNT->THICK BUSHING->ENG MOUNT CUP->THIN
BUSHING->WASHER->BOLT
and at the bottom,
ENG MOUNT->LARGE WASHER->THIN BUSHING->ENG MOUNT CUP->THICK
BUSHING->WASHER->BOLT.
Believe me, we had folks there who had done it "backwards"
and swore
the manual was wrong - we had folks who swore the manual was
right -
then we had the folks who were actually trying to line up
the bolts ...
and they just swore.
We called Tony Bingelis (who lives just up the road) and he
said go
with the manual. So we did, and everything eventually went
into place.
My advice - go with the manual.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Panel
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Graves <rlgbee(at)fnbnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV vs Fiberglass |
Randy
I would like a short discusion of the differences. I have an RV-4 flying and also
a
Glasair kit not started. Is fiberglass too messy and difficult?
Robert Graves
rpflanze(at)iquest.net wrote:
>
> To whomever posted the original question (My ISP lost a bunch of e-mails over
> the weekend), I've built both a Long-EZ and a RV-6. I can give you a blow-by-blow
> of the pros and cons of building one over the other. Send me e-mail direct
> to rpflanze(at)iquest.net (If they don't lose it!)
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G
> RV-6 (115 hours)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Painting Jig Question - Two |
In a message dated 1/28/01 8:38:45 AM Pacific Standard Time,
KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM writes:
> crowbotham(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
>
> > We were thinnking about building some kind of jig that we could bolt the
> > wings together at the spar, but are concerned that that there would be no
> > support for the ends of the wings.
> >
> > Any suggestions?
> >
>
I have just completed painting my wings on my RV4, the method I used was I
bolted the wings together using my splice plates, I then used a stand that
was just under the width of the (root) part of the spar for maximum support,
I also used an piece of angle to bolt the rear spar together. Placed on this
stand I was able to stand the wings leading edge down or flip them over on
top or bottom. It was very stable and worked well for me. Please note that
this stand was built heavy duty on casters for mobility and the trick part of
this stand is where the wing spar and the angle rest on are two runners,
aprox 1/4" X 2" flat bar set on edge, with some 1/2 PVC pipe, cut one side
and placed on the flat bar, you can now scoot your wings back and forth
without damaging your spar.
Tim
N39TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | RV wiring estimates |
Paul:
Thanks for the informative answer. Excellent post. Since I am building a
basic VFR equiped RV-9A. I was thinking of ordering the Vans wiring kit ES
EWC-KIT. It seems expensive at $180 but it does include a schematic, and
would get me fairly well along. My approach was to get as far as I could,
then order the remaining electrical requirements from Orndorff and Electric
Bob just to give them a little support. I just don't want to be ordering
every size item in small quantities over and over again. Does anyone think
this is a reasonable approach? I am lacking in local suppliers. My
expertise so far is limited to reading Bob's great book. No helpers.
Ernest Kells
RV-9A - Building Wings, Planning: O-235 Wood Prop
Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
> Tough question...I thought I had enough, and time after time, I was
ordering
> more. Alot of factors...how complicated is your panel? How many things
> require wiring to the cabin, etc, etc. I would order much more than you
> need, and sell the rest to a local builder, because you most certainly
will
> order more. The van's wiring kit (not the harness, just the wire) does
not
> come close to having enough. Here is my guestimate, but by no means is
set
> in stone:
>
> 22: 150' (avionics)
> 18: 75' (avionics)
> 14: 75' (lights)
> 12: (not sure if you'll need it)
> 10: (I think this is what I used on my alternator and buss wires)
> 8: 10' (Battery, ground, etc)
> 2 conducter shielded: 75' (for audio and mike wires)
> 3 conducter shielded: 30' (for a few engine sensors)
>
> This is only a guidline, but go ahead and spend the money and pad your
> estimates..you will need to order more wire. George Orndorff has good
> prices on this wire, he sells tefzel without the markings, so it is far
less
> cheaper.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Finish Kit (Still)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net>
> To: ;
> Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2001 8:59 PM
> Subject: RV-List: RV wiring estimates
>
>
> >
> > Listers,
> > Can anyone give me an estimate of how many feet of each gauge of Tefzel
> > wire (22-8) they used in their projects?
> > Charlie Kuss
> > RV-8A fuselage fabricating lots of little parts from stock
> > Boca Raton, Fl.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV wiring estimates |
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
01/29/2001 01:16:12 PM
>EWC-KIT. It seems expensive at $180 but it does include a schematic, and
>would get me fairly well along. My approach was to get as far as I could,
>then order the remaining electrical requirements from Orndorff and
Electric
>Bob just to give them a little support. I just don't want to be ordering
>every size item in small quantities over and over again. Does anyone
think
>this is a reasonable approach? I am lacking in local suppliers. My
>expertise so far is limited to reading Bob's great book. No helpers.
Ernest,
This is the route I took and it worked out well. I finished my VFR panel
about six months ago. I used every bit of my Van's wiring kit and then
some. I too bought all my additional supplies ( fuse blocks, switches,
fuses, over voltage protection, grounding blocks, contactors...) from
Electric Bob's website and made liberal use of his appendix Z diagrams also
found on his website. Fine site, good products, happy customer. Check out
my panel page for the finished product.
Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( Wing tips and lighting )
O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA
http://www.homestead.com/RV8A/files/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Uvanni" <buvanni(at)us.ibm.com> |
01/29/2001 02:30:36 PM
I bought an electric solenoid valve from ASC. In their
catalog it tells you that the "A" port is out and the
"P" port is in. On the valve I received it has " 1 & 2" on the side of the
unit. Which one is the input side and which one is the output side? or
does
it matter?????
Thanks for you help....... Bruce RV6A FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
Here is a link from the March 2001 issue of Private Pilot, (page 17) to a
company that makes 12 volt heated seat pads and vests.
www.4atlast.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
01/29/2001 01:49:29 PM
>I bought an electric solenoid valve from ASC. In their
>catalog it tells you that the "A" port is out and the
>"P" port is in. On the valve I received it has " 1 & 2" on the side of the
> unit. Which one is the input side and which one is the output side? or
>does
> it matter?????
Bruce,
Port #2 is the inlet and Port #1 is the outlet. But your right, it
probably does not matter.
Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( Wing tips and lighting )
O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA
http://www.homestead.com/RV8A/files/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> |
| Subject: | Rod end bearing washers |
I'm building an RV-4 working on elevator control rods. Plans calls for
washer #5701-75-60 on the F-440 rod but none of the others are called out
for washers. Does this mean only the F-440 gets the washers or they all
supposed to have them? I'm sure this is simple and I'm just making
difficult?
Larry
Hawkins, RV-4, Farmington, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Bad platenut countersinks |
My fellow listers:
I machine countersunk the tank mounting holes, then riveted on the
platenuts. It was only after I finished that I noticed several of the
platenuts are off-center in the hole. (More to the point...I think the
countersink bit moved around in the hole and made it offcenter to the
platenut.) I think that if I were to mount the tank, the screws would not
seat properly, right?
Would it be acceptable to use a small conical Dremel grinding stone to
enlarge the hole to center the platenut? If there is a better way, I'd love
to hear about it.
Thanks in advance!
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A N143DJ
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: sale price to register |
dear listers
i'm filling out the forms to get my rv registered. what have others put down
for sale price on the blank bill of sale we get from vans?
answer me off line if you wish.
thanks
scott
tampa
rv6a paperwork headaches
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: sale price to register |
Sale price is not necessary for FAA registration. I'd leave it blank, I did on
mine.
Bruce
Glasair III - N53BG
ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> dear listers
> i'm filling out the forms to get my rv registered. what have others put down
> for sale price on the blank bill of sale we get from vans?
> answer me off line if you wish.
> thanks
> scott
> tampa
> rv6a paperwork headaches
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bad platenut countersinks |
If it is just slightly off center, it would be easier just to run a tap
through your platenuts...It's hard to keep those platenuts from drifting
sometimes. I've also noticed that each platenut are not exactly the same
shape and size as another, so if you don't get the same platenut on the same
hole that you drill to match that platenut, there will be variances. But I
think the easiest solution to your problem would be tap them...it will make
your screws go in a little easier, too.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 1:17 PM
Subject: RV-List: Bad platenut countersinks
>
> My fellow listers:
>
> I machine countersunk the tank mounting holes, then riveted on the
> platenuts. It was only after I finished that I noticed several of the
> platenuts are off-center in the hole. (More to the point...I think the
> countersink bit moved around in the hole and made it offcenter to the
> platenut.) I think that if I were to mount the tank, the screws would not
> seat properly, right?
>
> Would it be acceptable to use a small conical Dremel grinding stone to
> enlarge the hole to center the platenut? If there is a better way, I'd
love
> to hear about it.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Jim Bower
> St. Louis, MO
> RV-6A N143DJ
> Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Bad platenut countersinks |
Hindsight is ALWAYS 20-20 right? Have you done all of them? You can use a
countersink bit that will fit into the platenut, I think I used a #40 and the
pilot fit into the platenut. Put the platenut on first then countersink. You
could still use this method to eggshape the countersinks slightly to make the
screw heads fit
Kevin -9A wiring quagmire
> My fellow listers:
> >
> > I machine countersunk the tank mounting holes, then riveted on the
> > platenuts. It was only after I finished that I noticed several of the
> > platenuts are off-center in the hole. (More to the point...I think the
> > countersink bit moved around in the hole and made it offcenter to the
> > platenut.) I think that if I were to mount the tank, the screws would
not
> > seat properly, right?
> >
> > Would it be acceptable to use a small conical Dremel grinding stone to
> > enlarge the hole to center the platenut? If there is a better way, I'd
> love
> > to hear about it.
> >
> > Thanks in advance!
> >
> > Jim Bower
> > St. Louis, MO
> > RV-6A N143DJ
> > Wings
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bad platenut countersinks |
That is exactly what I did, I used the hole in the nutplate as a guide and
countersunk the hole. It worked for me! Good luck
n a message dated 1/29/01 5:03:14 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM writes:
>
> Hindsight is ALWAYS 20-20 right? Have you done all of them? You can use a
> countersink bit that will fit into the platenut, I think I used a #40 and
> the
> pilot fit into the platenut. Put the platenut on first then countersink.
> You
> could still use this method to eggshape the countersinks slightly to make
> the
> screw heads fit
> Kevin -9A wiring quagmire
>
> > My fellow listers:
> > >
> > > I machine countersunk the tank mounting holes, then riveted on the
> > > platenuts. It was only after I finished that I noticed several of the
> > > platenuts are off-center in the hole. (More to the point...I think the
> > > countersink bit moved around in the hole and made it offcenter to the
> > > platenut.) I think that if I were to mount the tank, the screws would
> not
> > > seat properly, right?
> > >
> > > Would it be acceptable to use a small conical Dremel grinding stone to
> > > enlarge the hole to center the platenut? If there is a better way, I'd
> > love
> > > to hear about it.
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance!
> > >
> > > Jim Bower
> > > St. Louis, MO
> > > RV-6A N143DJ
> > > Wings
> > >
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Yohannes Kayir" <yohannkayir(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 engine mounting prep |
>Yohann;
>I had no problem screwing the special overflow fuel fitting on to the
>pump and then installing the pump (all after the engine is mounted). I
>wouldn't attempt mounting the engine with accessories on it!
>>Dave Aronson
>RV4 N504RV
Dave my engine is a new O360-A1A as I mentioned in my original posting.
There is an oil filter already safetied in place (spin-on) I beleive and
the mechanical fuel pump is also mounted on the engine.
Are you recommendig that I take these accessories (mechanical fuel pump
and oil filter) off, install the engine, and only then remount these
accessories?
As of now I intend to bolt the mount to the engine first (with the above
mentioned accessories on the engine), insert and bolt the gear legs to the
engine mount and finally mount the whole assembly onto the fuselage.
Yohann
engine mounting
scheduled for tomarrow,
Tuesday 30 Jan.
Pensacola, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Building Metal versus Fiberglass Airplanes - Long post |
A number of folks have asked me to post my opinions regarding the
differences in building a RV type aircraft versus building a fiberglass
airplane. Since I have built one of each, I will share my perspectives
on the relative pros and cons of each. Please remember that these are
my opinions only and they are worth what you paid for them. If you want
to disagree with me, go for it. My skin is pretty thick.
First, let me say that not all fiberglass airplanes are alike. I built
a Long-EZ, which is to say that I had to shape foam cores and apply
fiberglass cloth over it. This is definitely more work than building an
airplane where the parts are vacuum bagged like a Glassair. The new
cowlings on the RV series are examples of vacuum bagged parts.
Each type of airplane has its good things and its bad things. On metal
airplanes, you can stop at any point in the construction process to eat
dinner or go to bed. When you finish putting the skin on, you are
essentially finished with the part except for scuff, prime, and paint.
It takes longer to build a part out of aluminum than it does out of
fiberglass, but you make up for it during the finishing process. The
temperature of the building area is not critical during construction of
a metal airplane. If you want to change the location of something on a
metal airplane, you just rivet it on in a different location. Can't do
that on a fiberglass airplane. You have to provide for hardened
structures within the fiberglass so you have something solid to bolt to.
It is very difficult to build compound curves in metal, but it can be
done with an English wheel and some experience. Also, you can paint
your airplane any color you'd like. Always wanted a Ferrari Red RV? No
problem. Finally, it is easy to inspect the construction of a metal
airplane. Open her up and look at the riveting technique.
To counter those points, a fiberglass airplane goes together much
faster. Complete the lay-up, trim and you're done. No measuring,
drilling, deburring, dimpling, and riveting. However, once you are done
with the construction you are only about half done. Finishing is more
time consuming but you learn to develop techniques for doing large areas
at once. Buy lots of sandpaper. Building in the winter is a problem
because you have to keep the shop temperature above 70 degrees while the
fiberglass cures. Also, you can't stop in the middle of a lay-up. If
the plan calls for five layers of cloth then once started, you must work
through until the end. You must plan your time in the shop more
carefully. You can do things in fiberglass that you could never do in
metal. For the most part, you can get very creative with fairings, wing
tips, etc to personalize your airplane. If you walk the flight line at
Oshkosh, you won't find two EZs the same. Except that they are mostly
painted white. You need to stick to a light color to avoid heat buildup
underneath the lay-up and to avoid ultraviolet degradation of the foam
cores. Also, IN MY OPINION, a fiberglass airplane of the same
dimensions will be lighter and stronger than a metal counterpart,
although this is dependent upon your lay-up techniques. Finally, it is
easy to screw up a fiberglass airplane and make a structure that is not
very strong. Use the wrong cloth (yes, there are different types) or
run the fibers in the wrong direction and the structure isn't worth
s**t. Once painted, you'd never know the difference until it fell off.
There are probably a dozen or so factors that I've forgotten to mention,
but I'm sure others will chime in. I greatly enjoyed building both,
although I got really tired of the finishing work on the Long-EZ. I
loved flying both as well. Personally, I can't recommend one over the
other. I'm looking at another project. I'll look at the four-place RV
if it comes out in the next year or two. If it doesn't, I'll probably
go with a Velocity.
If you have comments, feel free to send them to me directly at
rpflanze(at)iquest.net.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (115 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mell" <kitplane(at)tradezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: RV-6 AFP Fuel Filter/Pump System (pics) |
Hi Dave,
A purge valve allows you to purge the hot fuel that is engine your engine
compartment back upstream into the fuel system, replacing it with cool fuel.
This allows cool fuel to enter the flow divider during a hot start condition
affording easier starts.
It also serves the purpose as a fuel cutoff valve for quicker engine
shutdowns.
Trip Mellinger
http://www.kitplaneforum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Berryhill" <dwberryhill(at)home.com>
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 7:33 AM
Subject: Re: RV6-List: RV-6 AFP Fuel Filter/Pump System (pics)
> --> RV6-List message posted by: "Dave Berryhill"
>
> > Below is a link to install pictures of Ross Briegleb and Hutch's Airflow
> > Performance fuel filter and fuel pump system on their RV-6. This plane
has
> > some real clean installs and enhancements.
> >
> > http://www.kitplaneforum.com/ubb/Forum13/HTML/000005.html
> >
> > Mell
>
> Very nice! Regarding the last photo, what is a purge valve?
>
> Dave Berryhill
> RV-0
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 engine mounting prep |
In a message dated 1/29/01 3:09:17 PM Pacific Standard Time,
yohannkayir(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
>
> Dave my engine is a new O360-A1A as I mentioned in my original posting.
> There is an oil filter already safetied in place (spin-on) I beleive and
> the mechanical fuel pump is also mounted on the engine.
>
>
Yohann, I have mounted both a I0-360A1B Angle valve to my RV4 and a I0-360
A1B Parallel valve to my friends RV4 and they both fit just fine with the
oil filter and fuel pump on the motor.
Have fun
Tim
N39TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | earl fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 engine mounting prep |
Yohannes I mounted my O-320 on the RV4 before riveting the side skins
and had to pull the engine and motor mount later to rivet the skins.
Do it now, you
gain nothing by doing it later. I think you Install the mount to the
fuselage, then the gear legs, then the engine.
Earl, RV4
Yohannes Kayir wrote:
>
>
> >Yohann;
> >I had no problem screwing the special overflow fuel fitting on to the
> >pump and then installing the pump (all after the engine is mounted). I
> >wouldn't attempt mounting the engine with accessories on it!
> >>Dave Aronson
> >RV4 N504RV
>
> Dave my engine is a new O360-A1A as I mentioned in my original posting.
> There is an oil filter already safetied in place (spin-on) I beleive and
> the mechanical fuel pump is also mounted on the engine.
>
> Are you recommendig that I take these accessories (mechanical fuel pump
> and oil filter) off, install the engine, and only then remount these
> accessories?
>
> As of now I intend to bolt the mount to the engine first (with the above
> mentioned accessories on the engine), insert and bolt the gear legs to the
> engine mount and finally mount the whole assembly onto the fuselage.
>
> Yohann
>
> engine mounting
> scheduled for tomarrow,
> Tuesday 30 Jan.
>
> Pensacola, Fl.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary J. Strong" <gstrong(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | back riveting the rudder |
I'm having a problem back riveting my rv6a QB rudder. If I use the
an426ad3-3.5 the plans call for, the rivet bends or doesn't make a good shop
head. If I use the -3 (what appears to be the norm prior to a print change
in 1997) the shop head is centered and creates well but it is too small (it
fits in the hole in my handy-dandy Avery rivet gauge). Another issue is
that after I dimple the skin and stiffener w/ a 3/32 dimple die set (also
Avery), the rivets seem loose in the hole. Is this normal? (my rudder skin
came pre-punched)
Has anyone else had this problem? What rivets did most of you use in the
rudder? Also, I ended up drilling about 8 of them out because I didn't like
the head and replaced them w/ oo-rivets. Problem was after I back-riveted
them a few of the holes on the stiffener have a small crack right where it
contacts the pounded rivet head.
I'm to the point of trashing the rudder and starting over again w/ new skin
and stiffeners. Should I have cut the rivets between -3 and -3.5? Could my
dimple die be somehow made incorrectly and making the holes too large?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Terry,
What happens when you put in opposite aileron, does she rollover onto
her back? (I ain't done it so I'm wondering before it happens).
Chuck
> Also , do not kick until the plane actually stalls and the nose drops.
Then
> as soon as the stall breaks
> , pull the stick all the way back and kick. Make sure that you dont put
any
> opposite aileron
> in by mistake. When you are done , kick opposite rudder and as soon as
the
> rotation
> starts to slow push stick toward neutral.Terry B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bad platenut countersinks |
We are talking nutplates here, right? ACS and other vendors have nutplate
drilling jigs. I have a set for 6, 8, and 10 screws. They cost about $30 each but
I've yet to have a bad countersink. Lancair sells another combo set for $70.
Bruce
Glasair III
Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Hindsight is ALWAYS 20-20 right? Have you done all of them? You can use a
> countersink bit that will fit into the platenut, I think I used a #40 and the
> pilot fit into the platenut. Put the platenut on first then countersink. You
> could still use this method to eggshape the countersinks slightly to make the
> screw heads fit
> Kevin -9A wiring quagmire
>
> > My fellow listers:
> > >
> > > I machine countersunk the tank mounting holes, then riveted on the
> > > platenuts. It was only after I finished that I noticed several of the
> > > platenuts are off-center in the hole. (More to the point...I think the
> > > countersink bit moved around in the hole and made it offcenter to the
> > > platenut.) I think that if I were to mount the tank, the screws would
> not
> > > seat properly, right?
> > >
> > > Would it be acceptable to use a small conical Dremel grinding stone to
> > > enlarge the hole to center the platenut? If there is a better way, I'd
> > love
> > > to hear about it.
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance!
> > >
> > > Jim Bower
> > > St. Louis, MO
> > > RV-6A N143DJ
> > > Wings
> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
>--> RV4-List message posted by: "Chuck Rabaut"
>
>Terry,
>
> What happens when you put in opposite aileron, does she rollover onto
>her back? (I ain't done it so I'm wondering before it happens).
Opposite aileron will probably flatten out the spin. Not a great idea for a
low experienced pilot.
Louis I. Willig
larywil(at)home.com
RV-4, N180PF, 70 hrs. and climbing fast
I0-360, Hartzell C/S
(610) 668-4964
Penn Valley, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Building Metal versus Fiberglass Airplanes - Long post |
Rick,
That bicycle thing is interesting. I've been figureing on folding bikes, but
they're heavy and expensive. Are you folding them or pulling the wheels off
to get them in the baggage compartment. How much are they gonna weigh?
Ed Holyoke
RV-6 qb N86ED (reserved)
>
>
> Thanks for the post, Randy. You're right, there are things that can be
done
> with composites that are near impossible with metal. Actually, what I
mean
> is the learning curve with composites is much easier to climb with regards
> to making creative, compound curvy type objects than it is with metal.
> There was no way for me to make my slider rear skirt, windscreen fairings
&
> empenage fairings with metal & have it look the way I want. I'm nowhere
> near that skilled as a metalsmith as others are. Right now I'm making
> carbon/epoxy modular bikes for my -6 so my wife & I will have ground
> transportation on our weekend travels. Wish I knew how to do this with
> metal but I can't. Sanding sucks, though. I couldn't even imagine having
to
> sand & fill something as large as an airplane.
>
> Rick Caldwell
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | UMA instrument lighting |
I wanted to give UMA a positive plug regarding their electroluminescent
instrument lighting and their customer service. These light units fit
between the instrument and the panel, and direct lighting back onto the
instrument face. The evenness of the light, and the ability to dim quite
low while retaining easy reading of the instrument is as good as it gets.
Price is much better than getting incandescent backlights built into the
instrument.
Long after I had thrown away the packaging for the four units I'd purchased
from Aircraft Spruce, I realized that I should have gotten different color
lights (the ones I bought had light blue, and the other instruments have
green backlighting). I called UMA, and they said send them back and they'd
send green ones, no charge. I offered to pay shipping, they said no
problem, they'll cover it. Got 'em back today.
Alex Peterson (sitting in the dark workshop looking at cool panel lights)
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Melvinke(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | opposite aileron in spin |
Applying opposite aileron during an established spin in the RV4 makes no
discernable difference to the quite vigorous gyrations, but in other
aircraft causes further stalling the inboard wing, intensifying the spin. If
you are experiencing difficulty in getting the plane to enter a spin - as
with a far forward CG - the application of opposite aileron may provide just
the needed extra stimulus. The RV4 spins rapidly, with the nose rising to the
horizon and back down vertically with each rotation, rather similar to that
experienced in the P51 Mustang - but losing less than half the altitude per
turn. I have experienced the RV4 flip on its back in entering a spin only
with a very aft CG, entering with nose way high. In all of these
circumstances, the RV 4 spin is nothing to be feared, and recovery is
immediate within half a turn, applying standard recovery technique -
deliberate application of full opposite rudder, followed by checking forward
on the stick as soon as the rotation slows. The spin can be flattened by
application of power, but this is not a good idea! Ken Melvin, N36KM.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 engine mounting prep |
Yohann:
If it is a dynafocal mount, you will encounter some real wrestling with
the mount-to-engine. If the mount is not afixed to something and rigid,
I think it could be problematic. One the mount is on the firewall it is
ridgid and will not move much. Now, think how close the fuel pump will
be to the fuselage. It is a very simple accessory to install once the
engine is mounted. The weight of the engine could damage the fuelpump
if it bangs against the firewall. this is all in my opinion only and
reflects only one attempt to mount the engine. If your engine is on one
of those engine stands and can be kept from rotating on the mount you
may be able to pull it off... Thats the beauty of this whole sport. If
it doesnt work one way, just re-think and try it again....
Dave Aronson
Yohannes Kayir wrote:
>
>
> >Yohann;
> >I had no problem screwing the special overflow fuel fitting on to the
> >pump and then installing the pump (all after the engine is mounted). I
> >wouldn't attempt mounting the engine with accessories on it!
> >>Dave Aronson
> >RV4 N504RV
>
> Dave my engine is a new O360-A1A as I mentioned in my original posting.
> There is an oil filter already safetied in place (spin-on) I beleive and
> the mechanical fuel pump is also mounted on the engine.
>
> Are you recommendig that I take these accessories (mechanical fuel pump
> and oil filter) off, install the engine, and only then remount these
> accessories?
>
> As of now I intend to bolt the mount to the engine first (with the above
> mentioned accessories on the engine), insert and bolt the gear legs to the
> engine mount and finally mount the whole assembly onto the fuselage.
>
> Yohann
>
> engine mounting
> scheduled for tomarrow,
> Tuesday 30 Jan.
>
> Pensacola, Fl.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: UMA instrument lighting |
I had a similar positive experience. I wanted a UMA airspeed indicator in
knots only, but I wanted it lighted. Van's didn't offer that particular
indicator with lighting, and couldn't, or wouldn't special order me one. So
I called UMA and they made one up for me with all the correct markings for
an 8 and sold it to me for the same price as Van's, plus the lighting. They
normally don't sell direct, but will if you "beg" them.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 wiring
----- Original Message -----
From: Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
>
> I wanted to give UMA a positive plug . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: opposite aileron in spin |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Melvinke(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 10:20 PM
Subject: RV4-List: opposite aileron in spin
> --> RV4-List message posted by: Melvinke(at)aol.com
>
> Applying opposite aileron during an established spin in the RV4 makes no
> discernable difference to the quite vigorous gyrations
I would just like to make it clear that the original converstation about
spins
pertained to the RV6. I think everyone should know that the RV4 spins
very differently than the RV6. I would never try spinning a 6 in any way
that you can spin a 4. I feel from my experience that Van's recommendation
of limiting the RV6 to two turns is valid. I have spun my RV6 both with and
without VG's. The spins up to two turns were easily recoverable in both
configurations. Although the VG's do cause the nose to spin somewhat
lower and the recovery is somewhat quicker.
Terry B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Break-In Period |
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Persyk <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sunday, January 28, 2001 9:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Break-In Period
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: BOBE. <RVPilot4(at)webtv.net>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Sunday, January 28, 2001 2:44 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Break-In Period
>
>
>>
>>Dennis are the ECI cylinders nitrided using crome rings .I thought ECI
>>was CERMI-NIL using cast iron rings ?? Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL.
>>
>
>
>I requested and received new nitrided cylinders. At the time Bart charged
>me $1000 total additional for new cylinders. The color coding on the
>cylinders is blue. I believe that is the code for nitride.
>
>Dennis 6A N600DP 41 hours
Judging from messages on-and-off line, this has caused some confusion. In
particular, some listers may be under the impression that 4 new cylinders
cost $1000. I paid $1000 OVER the cost of of the price of an engine with
rebuilt cylinders. I think it was an incredibly good deal and it may still
be offered. I don't know what 4 cylinders cost if one buys them outright,
but it is certainly much more than $1000.
Dennis Persyk
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | back riveting the rudder |
I can appreciate your frustration (been there myself).
1) First of all: Don't be frustrated! You are at a point where the learning
curve is probably the hardest but you will get through it quickly and become
a confident builder.
2) You should get yourself a rivet gauge so you can be confident that you
are using the right rivet or cut to the right length if you need to cut. I
measured my gauge and found that the rivet should 'stick out' 1/8" from the
hole. If you are close to this, you are using the right rivet. You can make
your own gauge if you like. Write me and I'll measure it for all the rivet
sizes. You REALLY need this. You will find later that Van's doesn't always
call out the right rivets. There are 2 types of rivet gauges: one type is to
measure the shop head diameter and height AFTER bucking and the one I am
talking about is to measure the lenght BEFORE you rivet but AFTER the rivet
is inserted in the hole. I bought mine from Avery.
3) I am building an RV 8 'slow-build' but I did make one RV-6 rudder before
I changed my mind to the RV-8. I used the rivets they called for in the
plans (I can't remember the size). If I hadn't forgot to turn down the
pressure on the rivet gun, it would have turned out fine. Instead I hammered
a large dent in the skin. I since bought an air tool regulator (a
must-have).
4) It is quite normal that the rivet is somewhat lose in the hole after you
dimple it. Just make sure you are using a #40 or #41 drill bit and the
dimple dies for the 3/32 rivets. A #41 drill is preferred by some were you
dimple since it's a bit smaller but I used a #40 myself. I figure that the
dimple die will enlarge the hole regardless - besides, that's all I had at
hand at the moment.
5) Are you using Avery's back rivet tool (with a plastic collar - part #
1048)? This is what I used and I didn't have any problems with rivets
bending. These were the very first rivets I drove in my 'building career'! I
can only see this being a problem if you drilled rivets out and enlarged the
hole.
NOTE: I had to shave one side of the plastic collar of the back-rivet set so
I could hold the gun straight without it interfering with the stiffeners.
This could be your problem.
6) MAKE SURE that the surface you back-rivet on is flush with the back-rivet
plate. This makes it much easier and you may avoid the skin not being flat
on the back-rivet plate.
7) If you drilled out many rivets IN A ROW and if you see cracks developing
anywhere on the skin I would suggest you build another rudder. If the
crack(s) are on the stiffeners, then just make a few more and replace them
by back-drilling through the holes you must already have made in the skin.
It took me 2 rudders and three left elevators to learn, but it has been
smooth sailing from then on.
8) All mistakes I made were purely cosmetic and I could easily have moved
on. One was the excessive rivet gun pressure. Another was an innocent ding
made by me dropping the arbour in the C-frame rivet tool. A third was me
being careless dimpling a hole where a hole wasn't supposed to be (on the
TOP side of the levator of course). The other 2 skins I just needed to redo
since I changed from .016 to .020 (RV-6 to RV-8).
Hope this helps,
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gary J. Strong
Sent: January 29, 2001 7:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: back riveting the rudder
I'm having a problem back riveting my rv6a QB rudder. If I use the
an426ad3-3.5 the plans call for, the rivet bends or doesn't make a good shop
head. If I use the -3 (what appears to be the norm prior to a print change
in 1997) the shop head is centered and creates well but it is too small (it
fits in the hole in my handy-dandy Avery rivet gauge). Another issue is
that after I dimple the skin and stiffener w/ a 3/32 dimple die set (also
Avery), the rivets seem loose in the hole. Is this normal? (my rudder skin
came pre-punched)
Has anyone else had this problem? What rivets did most of you use in the
rudder? Also, I ended up drilling about 8 of them out because I didn't like
the head and replaced them w/ oo-rivets. Problem was after I back-riveted
them a few of the holes on the stiffener have a small crack right where it
contacts the pounded rivet head.
I'm to the point of trashing the rudder and starting over again w/ new skin
and stiffeners. Should I have cut the rivets between -3 and -3.5? Could my
dimple die be somehow made incorrectly and making the holes too large?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Building Metal versus Fiberglass Airplanes - Long post |
Randy thanks for the comparison. I think it's time for you to try another
medium. After the RV is done (hopefully before the next century, I'll
probably try my hand at a wood airplane. The Falco most likely.
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Gooping up the tanks
Plainfield, IL (LOT)
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
>
> A number of folks have asked me to post my opinions regarding the
> differences in building a RV type aircraft versus building a fiberglass
> airplane. Since I have built one of each, I will share my perspectives
> on the relative pros and cons of each. Please remember that these are
> my opinions only and they are worth what you paid for them. If you want
> to disagree with me, go for it. My skin is pretty thick.
>
> First, let me say that not all fiberglass airplanes are alike. I built
> a Long-EZ, which is to say that I had to shape foam cores and apply
> fiberglass cloth over it. This is definitely more work than building an
> airplane where the parts are vacuum bagged like a Glassair. The new
> cowlings on the RV series are examples of vacuum bagged parts.
>
> Each type of airplane has its good things and its bad things. On metal
> airplanes, you can stop at any point in the construction process to eat
> dinner or go to bed. When you finish putting the skin on, you are
> essentially finished with the part except for scuff, prime, and paint.
> It takes longer to build a part out of aluminum than it does out of
> fiberglass, but you make up for it during the finishing process. The
> temperature of the building area is not critical during construction of
> a metal airplane. If you want to change the location of something on a
> metal airplane, you just rivet it on in a different location. Can't do
> that on a fiberglass airplane. You have to provide for hardened
> structures within the fiberglass so you have something solid to bolt to.
> It is very difficult to build compound curves in metal, but it can be
> done with an English wheel and some experience. Also, you can paint
> your airplane any color you'd like. Always wanted a Ferrari Red RV? No
> problem. Finally, it is easy to inspect the construction of a metal
> airplane. Open her up and look at the riveting technique.
>
> To counter those points, a fiberglass airplane goes together much
> faster. Complete the lay-up, trim and you're done. No measuring,
> drilling, deburring, dimpling, and riveting. However, once you are done
> with the construction you are only about half done. Finishing is more
> time consuming but you learn to develop techniques for doing large areas
> at once. Buy lots of sandpaper. Building in the winter is a problem
> because you have to keep the shop temperature above 70 degrees while the
> fiberglass cures. Also, you can't stop in the middle of a lay-up. If
> the plan calls for five layers of cloth then once started, you must work
> through until the end. You must plan your time in the shop more
> carefully. You can do things in fiberglass that you could never do in
> metal. For the most part, you can get very creative with fairings, wing
> tips, etc to personalize your airplane. If you walk the flight line at
> Oshkosh, you won't find two EZs the same. Except that they are mostly
> painted white. You need to stick to a light color to avoid heat buildup
> underneath the lay-up and to avoid ultraviolet degradation of the foam
> cores. Also, IN MY OPINION, a fiberglass airplane of the same
> dimensions will be lighter and stronger than a metal counterpart,
> although this is dependent upon your lay-up techniques. Finally, it is
> easy to screw up a fiberglass airplane and make a structure that is not
> very strong. Use the wrong cloth (yes, there are different types) or
> run the fibers in the wrong direction and the structure isn't worth
> s**t. Once painted, you'd never know the difference until it fell off.
>
> There are probably a dozen or so factors that I've forgotten to mention,
> but I'm sure others will chime in. I greatly enjoyed building both,
> although I got really tired of the finishing work on the Long-EZ. I
> loved flying both as well. Personally, I can't recommend one over the
> other. I'm looking at another project. I'll look at the four-place RV
> if it comes out in the next year or two. If it doesn't, I'll probably
> go with a Velocity.
>
> If you have comments, feel free to send them to me directly at
> rpflanze(at)iquest.net.
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G
> RV-6 (115 hours)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Break-In Period |
> Judging from messages on-and-off line, this has caused some
> confusion. In
> particular, some listers may be under the impression that 4 new
> cylinders
> cost $1000. I paid $1000 OVER the cost of of the price of an engine
> with
> rebuilt cylinders. I think it was an incredibly good deal and it may
> still
> be offered. I don't know what 4 cylinders cost if one buys them
> outright,
> but it is certainly much more than $1000.
>
> Dennis Persyk
4 or 5 years ago I paid $1,250 U.$. Each for NEW Superior cylinders
assemblies. That was $250 more per cylinder than what I could have
purchased new Lycoming cylinders with PMA parts for.
After flying a little over 3 years, I am approaching 800 hours and glad
I did it.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
745+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Component structural failure could have caused a crash in |
my RV6a this week, appreciate advice to re-engineer.
I have a wire type cable on my carb heat. Started with a collet/rod end
bearing connection to the carb door arm. The cable broke twice in 80 hours
with this arrangement. Switched to a "B" nut and that's worked for close to
100 hours now. I believe the original arrangement just had too much mass out
there vibrating which fatgued the wire, but who knows for sure. Don't have a
spring on there since the air blast will hold the door open in the case of a
failure (and its no big deal even if it doesn't). Still, a spring might
dampen vibration so I'm sure it wouldn't hurt.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tube Valve Stem nut & washer |
> dave
> the nut sits inside the hole to prevent the tube from spinning inside the
> tire/rim. i had to bring my tire to a local air craft mechanic to show me
> this, it dosen't look right but it is.
> good luck
> scott
Scott,
Did you also use the washer? That's what I did -- just tightened the nut
down on the washer. Had no guidance but it seemed right....
Randall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Wiggins" <glasair1(at)coastalnet.com> |
| Subject: | please remove from your list |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Hicks <EdHicks(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Pre-punched instrument panel |
Van's are now offering a pre-punched instrument panel for the RV-9A, both
slider and tip-up variety. Layout is the same as in their demonstrator,
N129RV.
Check out:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=980856088-44-270&brow
se=new&product=F-703-V
Best wishes,
Ed Hicks.
RV-6QB G-BZRV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bad platenut countersinks |
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Bower <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Monday, January 29, 2001 3:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: Bad platenut countersinks
>I machine countersunk the tank mounting holes, then riveted on the
>platenuts. It was only after I finished that I noticed several of the
>platenuts are off-center in the hole. (More to the point...I think the
>countersink bit moved around in the hole and made it offcenter to the
>platenut.) I think that if I were to mount the tank, the screws would not
>seat properly, right?
Jim: Platenuts tend to drift when riveted in place. Also, the need to
hold the nut in place while riveting is sometimes a problem. A drifted
platenut effectively moves the hole location with consequent effects on the
position of the screw as related to the location of the hole in the part
being attached. You can minimize this by cutting a screw to an appropriate
length so as not to engage the crimp on the platenut and use it to
temporarily attach the platenut while riveting. The taper on the screw head
centers the screw in the hole. It takes longer than using clecos, and it
doesn't cure the problem completely, but it helps greatly. I like to make
the screw holes oversize to facilitate later assembly and the above method
pretty well keeps the nut centered over the hole.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | Instrument Light Dimmer Questions |
To those with flying, or at least finished, RV's:
Can you use the same dimmer ( Electric Bob's dimmer) for incandescent, UMA,
and LCD backlighting ( VM1000)? What are the disadvantages associated with
using only one dimmer?
Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated!!!
Ken Harrill
RV-6, panel
Columbia, SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Light Dimmer Questions |
In a message dated 1/30/01 7:20:30 AM Pacific Standard Time,
KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us writes:
<< Can you use the same dimmer ( Electric Bob's dimmer) for incandescent, UMA,
and LCD backlighting ( VM1000)? What are the disadvantages associated with
using only one dimmer? >>
I have the 15 ohm 25 Watt rheostat (ACS Ohmite) as dimmer for 6X incandescent
post lights, 2X ISSPro fuel gauges, vertical card compass and the VM1000.
Initially the VM was too bright (like a TV screen raster turned up too high)
for night conditions so I put an additional 100 ohm 12.5 Watt Ohmite rheostat
behind the panel off of the main dimmer and adjusted it to drop a little more
voltage.
Now the VM is in balance with the other lights and tracks well under all
conditions. I would recommend having an adjustment for the VM and one for
the remaining lights if feasible. One day I may retrofit with 2X of Bob's
dimmers.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Light Dimmer Questions |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>To those with flying, or at least finished, RV's:
>
>Can you use the same dimmer ( Electric Bob's dimmer) for incandescent, UMA,
>and LCD backlighting ( VM1000)? What are the disadvantages associated with
>using only one dimmer?
>
The disadvantage is the difficulty of getting even dimming with the
different type devices. I think I read an article by Electric Bob about
the difficulties of doing this in certified aircraft. In practice, in my
airplane, I have not found the different dimming curves to be a
significant problem. I have LED's, incandescents and the VM1000.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Light Dimmer Questions |
In a message dated 1/30/01 10:49:26 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Vanremog(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< One day I may retrofit with 2X of Bob's
dimmers. >>
Gary, which lights would you control together? Do you have cabin lights/map
lights on a separate dimmer? Should I put my cabin lights on a dimmer?
I have all my panel lights controlled by a dimmer in the EXP BUS I am using
and have a dimmer from Electric Bob that I have mounted but not wired pending
input from others. Thanks for your help.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | External Power Receptical- RV6A |
Does any one see any problems with mounting a Piper style external power
receptacle in the bottom of the cowl over to one side?
I'm looking for a spot where the wire run will be short which rules out
inside the cabin. The backside (of the receptacle) is too big, I feel the
closest spot to put it inside would be behind F604.
BTY, this thing is heavy! Probably not for those trying to build a light,
simple aerobatic ship.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Lighting |
Paul,
I was looking at your web site this morning and noticed that you have used
some relatively small rocker switches on your panel. Could you please tell
me who the manufacturer and/or supplier is? How about a part or catalogue
number? Also, I'm working on my panel and have been making the cutouts by
hand. Needless to say it doesn't look nearly as neat as one cut out on a
CNC machine! I have Panel Planner and just recently upgraded to the pro
version. I've heard that people have had scaling problems with the program
so that the size and/or location of items is slightly off. Can you confirm
this or offer suggestions on how you were able to get such a nice product?
Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.
John Warren
LaCenter Wa
RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wanted: Rivet assitant (W. Chicago suburbs) |
I am looking for an experienced assistant to help buck and drive
rivets. I am currently skinning my RV-8 HS and am located in the far
western Chicago suburbs (near Bartlett and St. Charles). I am willing
to trade time and provide help to others in exchange for their help.
Thanks,
Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | Frank Russell, Please Email Me... |
Is Frank Russell still here on the Lists? The email address I have for him
is bouncing and I need to email him. Please response directly if you're
still around, Frank!
Thanks
Matt Dralle
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Light Dimmer Questions |
I use Bob's 5A dimmer for both incandescent lights and the VM1000. I like
the results. If you have a mix of LEDs and incandescent you may want to use
dropping resistors as the LED dimming characteristics are far different than
incandescent.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 41 hours 1 night hour
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us>
Date: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 9:54 AM
Subject: RV-List: Instrument Light Dimmer Questions
>
>To those with flying, or at least finished, RV's:
>
>Can you use the same dimmer ( Electric Bob's dimmer) for incandescent, UMA,
>and LCD backlighting ( VM1000)? What are the disadvantages associated with
>using only one dimmer?
>
>Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated!!!
>
>
>Ken Harrill
>RV-6, panel
>Columbia, SC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Piece of Alclad aluminum |
In a message dated 1/30/01 10:31:02 AM Pacific Standard Time,
bertrv6(at)yahoo.com writes:
<<
I need a piece of aluminum 2024T3;.063. The suppliers I can find, only
sell complete sheets. Does any one know of a supplier that will cut smaller
piece? >>
Both ACS and Van's sell cut pieces of Al sheet. There are others but those
are the two I've bought from.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Prop extension for wood props |
SQOTD: (Stupid question of the day)
I have a question for anyone who has used the 2 1/4 prop extension with a
wood prop on their RV-4, specifically on an O320? I am having Craig Catto
make my prop. He is a little concerned about the 2 1/4 prop extension. But
that is probably due to my misunderstanding of how the extension bolts on to
the engine and prop. Could someone clarify how the prop attaches to the 2
1/4 spool type extension and how that attaches to the crankshaft? I want to
make sure I haven't misinformed anyone.
Thank you kindly for your patient explanation.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Instrument Light Dimmer Questions |
This is what I intend to do. I would probably use a 5k or 10k Potentiometer
to determine the optimum lighting level. Once I got it where I want it,
take the pot out and measure the resistance required to get the proper
voltage drop. Go to Chicken Shack and buy the closest resistor I can find
to that value. Then permanently install the resistor inline to the
device(s) that need extra dimming. (If that makes sense)
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Persyk [mailto:dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 10:19 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Instrument Light Dimmer
Questions
I use Bob's 5A dimmer for both incandescent lights and the
VM1000. I like
the results. If you have a mix of LEDs and incandescent you
may want to use
dropping resistors as the LED dimming characteristics are
far different than
incandescent.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 41 hours 1 night hour
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us>
To: 'Rv-list(at)matronics.com'
Date: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 9:54 AM
Subject: RV-List: Instrument Light Dimmer Questions
>
>To those with flying, or at least finished, RV's:
>
>Can you use the same dimmer ( Electric Bob's dimmer) for
incandescent, UMA,
>and LCD backlighting ( VM1000)? What are the disadvantages
associated with
>using only one dimmer?
>
>Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated!!!
>
>
>Ken Harrill
>RV-6, panel
>Columbia, SC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Piece of Alclad aluminum |
>
> I need a piece of aluminum 2024T3;.063.
> The suppliers I can find, only sell complete sheets.
> Dpoes any one know of a supplier that will cut
> smaller piece?
>
> Thanks for your comments and suggestions
>
>
> Bert Rv6a
I have always gotten cut pieces like this from Wick's Aircraft. Give them a
try.
Doug Weiler
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: External Power Receptical- RV6A |
Hey Norm,
I used a male and female dryer receptacle from Lowes, it was rated for 100
amps, it's light, and it works. I mounted the female portion inside the
cockpit and used the standard wire Van's provided for the starter and
battery. I used a heavy gauge wire form Lowes for the male portion with
jumper cables ends attached to the other end. It's light and cheap, I've
used it twice and no problems, but keep in mind, if you travel a lot take it
with you, I don't think any FBO would carry this system on a start cart.
Blue Skies,
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Piece of Alclad aluminum |
Van's has a constant stock of pieces of .063 cut to sizes like 12x12, etc.
They list them in the catalog. They also have odds and ends in stock and
don't mind rescuing one of them to send to a needy builder. They've been
there before.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
RV-6A almost but not quite ready to move to the airport.
-----Original Message-----
I need a piece of aluminum 2024T3;.063. The suppliers I can find, only
sell complete sheets. Does any one know of a supplier that will cut
smaller
piece? >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
I wanted to wait for the download frenzy to die down before I watched
Terry's movie. Just downloaded the mondo 80M version. WOW! Great work
Terry! That's as good as anything I've seen in a long time. You ought to
send that in to SpeedVision or WingSpan or something!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wanted: Rivet assitant (W. Chicago suburbs) |
01/30/2001 03:36:49 PM
As a suggestion, a few rows of scrap metal that are dimpled & C/S for
backriveting and bucking and standard riveting practice with a wife, good
friend or other friend may be in order 'cause you are going to need some
experienced helpers in the future. Training your(local) helper now has
its benefits and merrits. FWIW my wife can shoot rivets better than I....I
end up bucking the rivets. I am better at backriveting however.
edamm(at)core.com
Sent by: To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
owner-rv-list-server@mat cc:
ronics.com Subject: RV-List: Wanted:
Rivet assitant (W. Chicago
suburbs)
01/30/2001 12:56 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
I am looking for an experienced assistant to help buck and drive
rivets. I am currently skinning my RV-8 HS and am located in the far
western Chicago suburbs (near Bartlett and St. Charles). I am willing
to trade time and provide help to others in exchange for their help.
Thanks,
Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jakent(at)unison.ie |
| Subject: | Platenuts drifting off centre |
If the countersink drifts off the centre of the nutplate and the mounting holes
are already drilled then the simplest fix is to use a floating nutplate.
Aircraft Spruce (and others) carry them at about twice the price of plain nutplates
- better if you can fabricate a jig to keep the countersink nub centered
and avoid the problem completely.
Good luck John Kent (RV4 finish kit, Ireland)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Schilling" <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Prop extension for wood props |
The ext.bolts direct to the engine flange, the prop bolts to the ext.,the
crush plate has a grove cut in the forward face that the head of the bolts
fit into so that they won't rotate when you tighten the nuts from behind.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | wing wire conduit/placement (rib) |
I am about to drill holes for conduit. Geo. Orndorff recommends 9 inches from
front of rib (main of course) and 1 inch up from flange-tooling hole side.
When I measured this on the bell crank rib-this measurement will run directly
into the bell crank area, specifically the bracket. Suggestions????? I plan
to use the flex. that van sells. Are there anything I need to be aware of if
I run at a different location on the main ribs? Thanks guys, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kenneth beene <kbeene(at)citilink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Component structural failure could have caused a crash in |
my RV6a this week, appreciate advice to re-engineer.
<>
I had a similar experience with my carb heat setup. Doing in "right" with a
collet/rod endbearing was a mistake. Haven't had a problem since I removed this
mass.
Ken
N94KB
http://www.mninter.net/~kbeene/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Capacitive senders |
Is it ok to dimple the capacative fuel sender plates for the plate nuts?
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Component structural failure could have caused a cra |
sh in my RV6a this week, appreciate advice to re-engineer.
What's the difference between the two installations. Could you guys explain
it to this computer geek? Collet? B nut?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Adminstrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
"Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant,
for those who foolishly think that somehow they
can achieve success without paying the price."
-----Original Message-----
From: kenneth beene [mailto:kbeene(at)citilink.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 3:35 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Component structural failure could have caused
a crash in my RV6a this week, appreciate advice to re-engineer.
<>
I had a similar experience with my carb heat setup. Doing in "right" with a
collet/rod endbearing was a mistake. Haven't had a problem since I removed
this
mass.
Ken
N94KB
http://www.mninter.net/~kbeene/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Lighting |
I got them from Aerotronics..they are 15A models..they were about $7 each if
I recall. Digi-Key is probably where they got them, as I have seen them in
their catalog. Call Aerotronics and ask for Martin, and tell him you want
the switches he sold me.
http://www.aerotronics.com
http://www.digi-key.com
The scaling is not perfect...panel planner was not intended to be an exact
match. You can export to a .DXF file, but some scaling and changes will be
necessary. It was intended as a visual layout utility.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 10:26 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Instrument Lighting
>
> Paul,
>
> I was looking at your web site this morning and noticed that you have used
> some relatively small rocker switches on your panel. Could you please
tell
> me who the manufacturer and/or supplier is? How about a part or catalogue
> number? Also, I'm working on my panel and have been making the cutouts
by
> hand. Needless to say it doesn't look nearly as neat as one cut out on a
> CNC machine! I have Panel Planner and just recently upgraded to the pro
> version. I've heard that people have had scaling problems with the
program
> so that the size and/or location of items is slightly off. Can you
confirm
> this or offer suggestions on how you were able to get such a nice product?
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.
>
> John Warren
> LaCenter Wa
> RV-6Q
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: back riveting the rudder |
On 29 Jan 2001, at 18:52, Gary J. Strong wrote:
> --> RV6-List message posted by: "Gary J. Strong"
>
> I'm having a problem back riveting my rv6a QB rudder. If I use the
> an426ad3-3.5 the plans call for, the rivet bends or doesn't make a
> good shop head. If I use the -3 (what appears to be the norm prior to
> a print change in 1997) the shop head is centered and creates well but
> it is too small (it fits in the hole in my handy-dandy Avery rivet
> gauge).
This sounds like a matter of technique rather than a matter of rivet
length. If the -3 won't fill the hole the -3.5 is the one to use. (I know
that's not fun to hear). Ways to reduce the number of rivets that bend
over:
- Hold the rivet gun absolutely perpendicular to the sheet metal, and
keep the rivet gun centered over the rivet
- Feather in the trigger just a tad (assuming you have a feather trigger
rivet gun) rather than jerking the trigger all at once
- Apply plenty of pressure so the gun doesn't dance around while
riveting
- Try different pressure settings. Too little pressure increases the
likelihood of bending because it takes too long to hammer the rivet.
Way too much pressure causes the gun to get out of control,
increasing the likelihood of damage to the metal.
- Practice Practice Practice
> Another issue is that after I dimple the skin and stiffener
> w/ a 3/32 dimple die set (also Avery), the rivets seem loose in the
> hole. Is this normal? (my rudder skin came pre-punched)
>
Yes. Rivet tape (Scotch brand low adhesive tape from Avery or Home
Depot) helps stabilize the rivets while you move the piece around in
the shop.
> Problem was
> after I back-riveted them a few of the holes on the stiffener have a
> small crack right where it contacts the pounded rivet head.
> I'm to the point of trashing the rudder and starting over again w/ new
> skin and stiffeners.
That sounds a little severe. How about just replacing the problem
stiffeners? I'd suggest you finish up the rudder (which will give you
lots of riveting practice) and then decide if you really need to start
over. The practice will be good even if you find you are not satisfied
with the final result.
> Should I have cut the rivets between -3 and
> -3.5?
In my experience it's more a technique thing than a need for a -3.25
rivet.
Hang in there! Riveting is NOT something that comes easily, but
you'll find you get better and better with practice. I still ruined rivets
occasionally until the last one was in and I was .... DONE.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | The Razers <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Component structural failure could have caused a crash in |
my RV6a this week, appreciate advice to re-engineer.
Ive had two wire type cable failures of my carb heat. Both at the
collet/rod end bearing connection. Had one on my oil cooler door with
the same setup.
chet 310 hours now
Randall Henderson wrote:
>
>
> I have a wire type cable on my carb heat. Started with a collet/rod end
> bearing connection to the carb door arm. The cable broke twice in 80 hours
> with this arrangement. Switched to a "B" nut and that's worked for close to
> 100 hours now. I believe the original arrangement just had too much mass out
> there vibrating which fatgued the wire, but who knows for sure. Don't have a
> spring on there since the air blast will hold the door open in the case of a
> failure (and its no big deal even if it doesn't). Still, a spring might
> dampen vibration so I'm sure it wouldn't hurt.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitive senders |
Are:
I suppose it would be ok, but why bother? Countersinking will be much
faster. The main thing you must be careful of regarding the senders is to
make sure that they are electrically isolated from the rest of the tank.
Dimpling should not affect that at all.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A (with capacitance senders from Van's)
fuse
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: Are Barstad <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Date: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 6:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: Capacitive senders
>
>Is it ok to dimple the capacative fuel sender plates for the plate nuts?
>
>Are
>RV-8 Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Bell" <dbell(at)manisteenational.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted: Rivet assitant (W. Chicago suburbs) |
Eric,
If you are just looking for some onsite advice...I may be able to stop by
this weekend on Sat. Not sure though. I am attending the Chicago Golf Show
and may not have to at the booth on Sat. I will be staying in Buffalo Grove
in the evenings. I have an 8qb getting close to completion, if only this
golf job would stop interupting.
Doug Bell
8QB
Manistee, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: <edamm(at)core.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 12:56 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wanted: Rivet assitant (W. Chicago suburbs)
>
> I am looking for an experienced assistant to help buck and drive
> rivets. I am currently skinning my RV-8 HS and am located in the far
> western Chicago suburbs (near Bartlett and St. Charles). I am willing
> to trade time and provide help to others in exchange for their help.
>
> Thanks,
> Eric
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Bell" <dbell(at)manisteenational.com> |
| Subject: | Golf event/Rv flyin |
Fellow builder, flyers and golfers,
Some months ago I jested about my job getting in the way of building my 8.
I run a 36 hole golf resort in Manistee, MI....a nice summer town on the
shores of Lake Michigan, basically travel east from Oshkosh and you hit
Manistee once over land in Michigan.
Our resort had a 42 room Inn and two very nice courses. A few builders
mentioned putting an event of some kind on for any who would like to fly in
and play some golf for a day maybe two.
We have a very nice airport in the city, freshly worked over by the Michigan
State checkbook( new surface, longer)
I would entertain any suggestions for hosting an event and working up a fee
for lodging and golf. I do have fine rentals for you 3 and 4 pilots who may
not be able to pack your own. We can also provide transportation to and from
the airport.
This could be Spring, Summer, or Fall...the place is a nice day trip and a
good time would be assured.
Please send me any comments you may have positive or negative on the idea
and I will get working on it. If anyone would like to see our resort
inbetween reading list mail, we are at www.manisteenational.com
Doug Bell
8qb N266WB
working too much for a golf pro midwinter
Not working on the 8 enough
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary J. Strong" <gstrong(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-list: Backriveting |
Thanks for all the great ideas on backriveting. A local builder (Todd Houg)
also gave me a hand and I think now everything is solved. I think I had a
couple of issues. First my technique was poor as well as my back rivet set
had a crown on its end (his was very flat, mine had a slight crown). I
flattened my rivet set slightly plus reset the gun and the 3.5s now are
turning out great. While I'm still going to trash my original rudder (just
too many mistakes for me to be comfortable), I feel very confident the next
one will turn out great. I used the one I'm going to throw away for
practice, and I think I've finally got it down. I don't know if the actual
problem was technique (probably) or rivet set, but in any case I'm back to
building.
Thanks!!
Gary S. (RV6AQB - rudder)
Minneapolis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Prop extension for wood props |
Scott--------my rv-4 with an 0-320 uses a 4 inch spool, how did you end
up with a smaller one. I have also ordered a prop from Craig.
-------------mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
Enco has these wheels on sale. 6" x1" for $36.69 Here's the link---go to Hot
Deals and abrasives. I've ordered from them and service is pretty good.
http://www.use-enco.com/hotdeals/abrasives.htm
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Lighting |
Paul,
Thanks for your prompt response and information.
John
LaCenter
RV-6Q
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 4:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Instrument Lighting
>
> I got them from Aerotronics..they are 15A models..they were about $7 each
if
> I recall. Digi-Key is probably where they got them, as I have seen them
in
> their catalog. Call Aerotronics and ask for Martin, and tell him you want
> the switches he sold me.
>
> http://www.aerotronics.com
>
> http://www.digi-key.com
>
> The scaling is not perfect...panel planner was not intended to be an exact
> match. You can export to a .DXF file, but some scaling and changes will
be
> necessary. It was intended as a visual layout utility.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Finish Kit (Still)
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 10:26 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Instrument Lighting
>
>
> >
> > Paul,
> >
> > I was looking at your web site this morning and noticed that you have
used
> > some relatively small rocker switches on your panel. Could you please
> tell
> > me who the manufacturer and/or supplier is? How about a part or
catalogue
> > number? Also, I'm working on my panel and have been making the cutouts
> by
> > hand. Needless to say it doesn't look nearly as neat as one cut out on
a
> > CNC machine! I have Panel Planner and just recently upgraded to the pro
> > version. I've heard that people have had scaling problems with the
> program
> > so that the size and/or location of items is slightly off. Can you
> confirm
> > this or offer suggestions on how you were able to get such a nice
product?
> >
> > Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.
> >
> > John Warren
> > LaCenter Wa
> > RV-6Q
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitive senders |
I'm sure it's ok to dimple but countersinking that thick material is a whole
lot easier. I just finished this process and the countersinking worked
fine. You don't even have to be that accurate with the counter sink since
no one will see it anyway.
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Gooping up the tanks
Plainfield, IL (LOT)
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 6:16 PM
Subject: RV-List: Capacitive senders
>
> Is it ok to dimple the capacative fuel sender plates for the plate nuts?
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Control Cable Issues |
In a message dated 1/30/01 4:40:50 PM Pacific Standard Time,
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com writes:
<< Could you guys explain
it to this computer geek? Collet? B nut? >>
Scott-
It's easier to show you than to tell you. Get out your 2000/2001 ACS catalog
and look on page 155 (or look in the AP section under Control Attachments if
you have an older catalog). The Wire Grip P/Ns 05-16000 and 05-16001 are
examples of the collet (or pin-vise) type. Elsewhere on the same page will
be the 'B' (for Bug) Nut info P/Ns 05-16210, 05-16230, 05-16240 and 05-16245
(with there respective dimensions shown).
The merits of these two cable attachments are as follows:
The Collet Type supposedly grips the wire by friction over a relatively large
area and would, at first blush, seem to be a good choice to interface with a
10-32 rod end bearing. The reality is somewhat different. The problem is
that the stress riser in bending is at the end of the collet (pin vise)
member and the additional mass of a rod end can set up an unwanted
micromotion situation under vibration that will ultimately embrittle and
crack the cable at the collet end.
By contrast the Bug Nut Type is a simple set screw driven into the end of a
nut with a hole in its shank. The set screw captivates the cable against the
side of the hole in the nut. Provided the end of the set screw is not
sharply pointed, it will not concentrate the clamping stresses unduly. The
low mass and the more gentle transition (remember it is still sprung up
against the side of the hole for the full nut diameter) from the clamped
cable to the free cable makes this a more reliable connection in my
experience. I have this arrangement on my Carb Heat and my Parking Brake
Valve and there are fine after lots of use and 400 hrs.
However, the best cable connections are in fact the ones that come with 10-32
threads already on the end. Use them and the safety springs and you have got
it nailed.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
rv-list
| Subject: | RV8 cabin floors |
Hi Folks
Has anybody out there building an -8 given any thought to screwing all
flooring down rather than using pop rivets ??
Seems to me that with an aft battery there are areas where you cannot
get to without drilling the pop rivets out if one follows Van's plan of
running the wiring.
Even something as simple as running a rudder cable (yes, I realize that
the cable is run early on in the building process) or inspecting the
cable (rudder or electric) for that matter around the F806 area becomes
an interesting job during the yearly inspection.
Gert
80721
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Terry's Movie |
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
> I wanted to wait for the download frenzy to die down before I watched
> Terry's movie. Just downloaded the mondo 80M version.
Ah! That'll be why my download of it took so long! :-)
> WOW! Great work
> Terry! That's as good as anything I've seen in a long time. You ought to
> send that in to SpeedVision or WingSpan or something!
Absolutely agree.
If anyone in NZ without a high-speed Net connection wants to see it, I
can put it on CD-ROM (videotape is also an option) and mail it to them.
For those on the NZ RV-list -- this a 32 minute movie made by Canadian
Terry Jantzi of his RV-6 trip to Iqaluit in Northern Canada. It's
available (also 8MB and 20MB versions) on the Net from
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/videos.htm
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | meketa <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 cabin floors |
Hello Yall
I had planned to install nutplates for the pop rivited floors, but after
doing the rear baggage floor and the required front floor areas I did
not want to go thru the agony of installing all those nutplates on the
quickbuild rear floor. A fried of mine who is building an F1 Rocket had
the same intentions, with the same results.
I would recommend making the baggage area floor removable so at least
some access is available.
George Meketa
RV-8QB finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Yohannes Kayir" <yohannkayir(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 engine hung |
Felow listers,
thanks for all the good info, the engine is hung. But,,,,, the "Barry
Mounts" came with illustrated instructions that say: Mount the tops with the
skinny rubber mounts facing the engine (forward) and the thicker rubber
mounts aft . For the lower cups the order is reversed.
Bottom two mounts went in okay, but the top two did not, no matter how hard
we scratched our heads (1.5 hours). Finally we decided to install the top
ones with the skinny rubber mounts facing forward i.e. just like the bottom
ones. Is this normal?
Notes from John Groce (Rvator-1986) cover "Lord Mounts" installation with
the skinny mounts facing aft on top and forward on the bottom, exact
opposite of Barry.
Buffaloed in Pensacola,
Yohann
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rywessel(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | web site updated |
Listers-
I have just updated my web site with new construction pictures of my RV-6A
project. Comments appreciated.
http://robin.getbiz.net
Robin Wessel
RV-6A Finishing
N829RW reserved
Tigard, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Component structural failure could have caused a cra |
sh in my RV6a this week, appreciate advice to re-engineer.
> What's the difference between the two installations. Could you guys
explain
> it to this computer geek? Collet? B nut?
The collet, also known as a "wire grip" is a little deal that Vans sells
that clamps down on the wire on one end, and on the other end has a threaded
shaft. A small rod-end bearing is screwed onto this shaft. Makes for a nice
clean looking installation but as I said before, there's a lot of mass. Also
I'm not sure how trustworthy that collet really is.
The 'B' nut is a little nut and machine screw set-up with a hole in it that
the wire goes through, and an allen nut to tighten down on the wire. I got
mine from Aircraft Spruce. Go to
http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/fwallfwd.html to see a picture of my
installation.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3M EXL Wheels |
Guys, I'm very comfortable with fiberglass but metal work leaves me somewhat
perplexed. What grit and type (AO or SC) of Scotch Brite wheel do you use to
finish brackets and such.
Bruce
Glasair III
Greg Tanner wrote:
>
> Enco has these wheels on sale. 6" x1" for $36.69 Here's the link---go to Hot
> Deals and abrasives. I've ordered from them and service is pretty good.
> http://www.use-enco.com/hotdeals/abrasives.htm
>
> Greg Tanner
> RV-9A Empennage
> SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV8 cabin floors |
I did the same thing (rear baggage floor w/ screws) and felt the same way
about more nutplates in mine. Make sure your rudder cables are in the right
place and operating smoothly before installing the floor.
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ
Pearland, Texas
-----Original Message-----
From: meketa [mailto:acgm(at)gvtc.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 11:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 cabin floors
Hello Yall
I had planned to install nutplates for the pop rivited floors, but after
doing the rear baggage floor and the required front floor areas I did
not want to go thru the agony of installing all those nutplates on the
quickbuild rear floor. A fried of mine who is building an F1 Rocket had
the same intentions, with the same results.
I would recommend making the baggage area floor removable so at least
some access is available.
George Meketa
RV-8QB finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Dysinger" <larrykdysinger(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] RV8 cabin floors |
Gert,
I am getting ready to work on my fuselage.
I believe that you need access to under the floor to perform annual inspections
and possibly other reasons, So that is why I plan on installing platenuts so
I can screw the floorboards down.
It is more work, but I believe worth the effort.
Larry
RV-8QB 81251
From: gert <GERT(at)EXECPC.COM>
Reply-To: rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com
To: "rv8list(at)egroups.com" , rv-list
Subject: [rv8list] RV8 cabin floors
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 22:41:22 -0600
Hi Folks
Has anybody out there building an -8 given any thought to screwing all
flooring down rather than using pop rivets ??
Seems to me that with an aft battery there are areas where you cannot
get to without drilling the pop rivets out if one follows Van's plan of
running the wiring.
Even something as simple as running a rudder cable (yes, I realize that
the cable is run early on in the building process) or inspecting the
cable (rudder or electric) for that matter around the F806 area becomes
an interesting job during the yearly inspection.
Gert
80721
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Prop extension for wood props |
That's true. Also,
I just studied up on this. The 2 1/4" prop extension uses only one set of
bolts. They go through the crush plate, the prop, the extension and into the
crankshaft flange.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (canopy)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Collet , B Nut , Bug Nut , Bodin Cable , bowdin , boden , |
pinch
bolt
01/31/2001 09:41:23 AM
Re-posted for future e-searching. (don't know the proper spelling for the
bodin cable) Some folks know these pinch bolts as bug nuts. I have
purchased some at the lawn mower store. I have recently made my own using a
very short #3 bolt that is factory end drilled (on threaded shank-not the
head). I pinched the bodin cable between two nuts while the center of the
bodin cable runs thru the drilled bolt hole.
"Randall Henderson"
To:
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: Re: RV-List: Component
structural failure could
ronics.com have caused a cra sh in my
RV6a this week, appreciate advice to
re-engineer.
01/31/2001 01:45 AM
Please respond to
rv-list
> What's the difference between the two installations. Could you guys
explain
> it to this computer geek? Collet? B nut?
The collet, also known as a "wire grip" is a little deal that Vans sells
that clamps down on the wire on one end, and on the other end has a
threaded
shaft. A small rod-end bearing is screwed onto this shaft. Makes for a nice
clean looking installation but as I said before, there's a lot of mass.
Also
I'm not sure how trustworthy that collet really is.
The 'B' nut is a little nut and machine screw set-up with a hole in it that
the wire goes through, and an allen nut to tighten down on the wire. I got
mine from Aircraft Spruce. Go to
http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/fwallfwd.html to see a picture of my
installation.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: back riveting the rudder |
There are two other thing to try when riveting thin dimpled skings. When you
match drill the skins try using a 41 dirll rather than the 40. When the skin
is dimpled the finshed hole will be closer to the correct size.
When a rivet is louse in the hole prior to riveting you can tighten it by
using the rivet squeezer. Before placing the rivet in the hole use the
squeezer to pre-squeeze the rivet. You will find it doesn't take much
pressure to widen the rivet body to the point where it is tight in the hole.
This is a standard A&P trick used when a repaired rivet hole has been
oversized during the drill out
Good luck
Joel RV9 900124
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Collet , B Nut , Bug Nut , Bodin Cable , bowdin , boden , |
pinch
bolt , control cabel , cables
01/31/2001 09:51:25 AM
__________________
Re-posted for future e-searching. (don't know the proper spelling for the
bodin cable) Some folks know these pinch bolts as bug nuts. I have
purchased some at the lawn mower store. I have recently made my own using a
very short #3 bolt that is factory end drilled (on threaded shank-not the
head). I pinched the bodin cable between two nuts while the center of the
bodin cable runs thru the drilled bolt hole.
"Randall Henderson"
To:
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: Re: RV-List: Component
structural failure could
ronics.com have caused a cra sh in my
RV6a this week, appreciate advice to
re-engineer.
01/31/2001 01:45 AM
Please respond to
rv-list
> What's the difference between the two installations. Could you guys
explain
> it to this computer geek? Collet? B nut?
The collet, also known as a "wire grip" is a little deal that Vans sells
that clamps down on the wire on one end, and on the other end has a
threaded
shaft. A small rod-end bearing is screwed onto this shaft. Makes for a nice
clean looking installation but as I said before, there's a lot of mass.
Also
I'm not sure how trustworthy that collet really is.
The 'B' nut is a little nut and machine screw set-up with a hole in it that
the wire goes through, and an allen nut to tighten down on the wire. I got
mine from Aircraft Spruce. Go to
http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/fwallfwd.html to see a picture of my
installation.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <edwardmcole(at)home.com> |
Listers,
I was contacted by a prospective RV8 builder located in Sausalito, CA who is
looking for a ride
in an RV8. Is there anyone in Northern, California that could help him out?
He is willing
to travel and share expenses.
Please contact him directly:
Parker Thomas
cell phone 615-293-1003
Parker.Thomas(at)owen.vanderbilt.edu
Thanks,
ED Cole
RV6A Finish Kit
-------------------------------------------------------
Original Message:
Edward -
Hi. I'm an EAA member new to the Bay Area (living in Sausalito). I've
just been introduced by a friend to Van's RV airplanes. I'm considering
an RV-8. I'm wondering if you might help me - do you know anyone in
your chapter with an RV who might be willing to give me a
familiarization ride? I'll happily pay for fuel and time.
Thanks,
Parker Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Collet , B Nut , Bug Nut , Bodin Cable , bowdin , boden , |
pinchbolt
-----Original Message-----
From: pcondon(at)csc.com <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Date: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Collet , B Nut , Bug Nut , Bodin Cable , bowdin ,
boden , pinchbolt
>
> Re-posted for future e-searching. (don't know the proper spelling for the
>bodin cable) Some folks know these pinch bolts as bug nuts. I have
>purchased some at the lawn mower store. I have recently made my own using a
>very short #3 bolt that is factory end drilled (on threaded shank-not the
>head). I pinched the bodin cable between two nuts while the center of the
>bodin cable runs thru the drilled bolt hole.
>
>
In one of the Tony Bingelis books he shows the construction of the above
scheme (I've looked through all 4 and I couldn't find it just now). I used
it for parking brake, oil door and carb heat.
However, I believe premature failure of the carb heat cable end for an O360
is due to the design of the actuating arm that Van supplies. When I rigged
up the door on the FAB on my work bench to check it out, it was apparent
that the cable would have to make a sharp bend at one end of the throw.
This looked to me like a classic setup for low-cycle fatigue failure. I
clamped on arm extensions at different angles until I found the optimum
angle and then riveted on an arm extension that minimized flexing of the
solid Bowden cable wire. I also maximized the distance between end of outer
sheath and captivation end to allow for low-angle flexing. I will certainly
inspect this area carefully, but I am quite certain that the supplied arm
geometry was not optimized.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 41 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Component structural failure could have caused a cra |
sh in my RV6a this week, appreciate advice to re-engineer.
Ah! Pictures! Thanks Randall!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Adminstrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
"Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant,
for those who foolishly think that somehow they
can achieve success without paying the price."
-----Original Message-----
From: Randall Henderson [mailto:randallh(at)home.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 10:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Component structural failure could have caused
a cra sh in my RV6a this week, appreciate advice to re-engineer.
> What's the difference between the two installations. Could you guys
explain
> it to this computer geek? Collet? B nut?
The collet, also known as a "wire grip" is a little deal that Vans sells
that clamps down on the wire on one end, and on the other end has a threaded
shaft. A small rod-end bearing is screwed onto this shaft. Makes for a nice
clean looking installation but as I said before, there's a lot of mass. Also
I'm not sure how trustworthy that collet really is.
The 'B' nut is a little nut and machine screw set-up with a hole in it that
the wire goes through, and an allen nut to tighten down on the wire. I got
mine from Aircraft Spruce. Go to
http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/fwallfwd.html to see a picture of my
installation.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Prop extension for wood props |
That's how it looked from the catalog and that's how I described it to Craig
Catto. He didn't seem too thrilled with this arrangement. But he said that
Van probably had a ton of them flying already and if there were problems we
would have heard about it. Thanks!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Adminstrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
"Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant,
for those who foolishly think that somehow they
can achieve success without paying the price."
-----Original Message-----
From: ENewton57(at)AOL.COM [mailto:ENewton57(at)AOL.COM]
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 6:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop extension for wood props
That's true. Also,
I just studied up on this. The 2 1/4" prop extension uses only one set of
bolts. They go through the crush plate, the prop, the extension and into
the
crankshaft flange.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (canopy)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Golf event/Rv flyin |
Sounds like a capital idea! I just wish my RV-4 would be done in time.
Maybe in time for the 2nd annual Golf-In.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Adminstrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
"Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant,
for those who foolishly think that somehow they
can achieve success without paying the price."
-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Bell [mailto:dbell(at)manisteenational.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 6:11 PM
Subject: RV-List: Golf event/Rv flyin
Fellow builder, flyers and golfers,
Some months ago I jested about my job getting in the way of building my 8.
I run a 36 hole golf resort in Manistee, MI....a nice summer town on the
shores of Lake Michigan, basically travel east from Oshkosh and you hit
Manistee once over land in Michigan.
Our resort had a 42 room Inn and two very nice courses. A few builders
mentioned putting an event of some kind on for any who would like to fly in
and play some golf for a day maybe two.
We have a very nice airport in the city, freshly worked over by the Michigan
State checkbook( new surface, longer)
I would entertain any suggestions for hosting an event and working up a fee
for lodging and golf. I do have fine rentals for you 3 and 4 pilots who may
not be able to pack your own. We can also provide transportation to and from
the airport.
This could be Spring, Summer, or Fall...the place is a nice day trip and a
good time would be assured.
Please send me any comments you may have positive or negative on the idea
and I will get working on it. If anyone would like to see our resort
inbetween reading list mail, we are at www.manisteenational.com
Doug Bell
8qb N266WB
working too much for a golf pro midwinter
Not working on the 8 enough
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Yohann, I did it per fig 11-1 in the RV-4 manual and everything worked fine.
Call Van's if you have doubts about your installation. They'll give you the
definitive answer.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Adminstrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
"Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant,
for those who foolishly think that somehow they
can achieve success without paying the price."
-----Original Message-----
From: Yohannes Kayir [mailto:yohannkayir(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 9:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV4 engine hung
Felow listers,
thanks for all the good info, the engine is hung. But,,,,, the "Barry
Mounts" came with illustrated instructions that say: Mount the tops with the
skinny rubber mounts facing the engine (forward) and the thicker rubber
mounts aft . For the lower cups the order is reversed.
Bottom two mounts went in okay, but the top two did not, no matter how hard
we scratched our heads (1.5 hours). Finally we decided to install the top
ones with the skinny rubber mounts facing forward i.e. just like the bottom
ones. Is this normal?
Notes from John Groce (Rvator-1986) cover "Lord Mounts" installation with
the skinny mounts facing aft on top and forward on the bottom, exact
opposite of Barry.
Buffaloed in Pensacola,
Yohann
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Collet , B Nut , Bug Nut , Bodin Cable , bowdin , boden , |
pinch ...
In a message dated 01/31/2001 9:46:24 AM Eastern Standard Time,
pcondon(at)csc.com writes:
<< Re-posted for future e-searching. (don't know the proper spelling for the
bodin cable) >>
for search purposes (and not because I'm anal-retentive) I believe it's
"Bowden cable." -- one of the few things pertaining to airplane building
that I _am_ fairly sure of.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Building Metal versus Fiberglass Airplanes - Long post |
Great comparison Randy,
The only area I disagree with you is on weight. An aluminum aircraft of the
same type and size will be lighter. This is because composite airframes must
be much stronger to withstand ground handling damage. An overstated example
is Voyager (Dick & Jeana's round the world ride). This carbon fiber epoxy
structure was so susceptible to ground handling damage it had to be guarded
when out in public. An average man could destroy the aileron by squeezing it
with his bare hand.
Like you I don't have a major preference to airframe construction materials.
I believe most of the RV builders who complain about fiberglass are the ones
that have used the older polyester/glass parts which were sadly lacking.
The newer vacuum bagged epoxy/glass parts are a major improvement, but are
still not up to the standard of the better composite parts manufacturers.
However in Van's defense, his reasonable kit and component prices more than
make up for this.
Garry, "6" Finishing (filling and sanding fiberglass parts)
"Randy J. Pflanzer" wrote:
>
> A number of folks have asked me to post my opinions regarding the
> differences in building a RV type aircraft versus building a fiberglass
> airplane. Since I have built one of each, I will share my perspectives
> on the relative pros and cons of each. Please remember that these are
> my opinions only and they are worth what you paid for them. If you want
> to disagree with me, go for it. My skin is pretty thick.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 cabin floors |
5.0.3 (Intl)|21 March 2000) at 01/31/2001 11:36:18 AM
Gert,
A year ago I had the pleasure of flying with Don Christiansen in his RV-8
in Dallas. He previously had an RV-4 that he put over a thousand hours on.
When he built his -8 he made his floor removeable (or at least parts of it)
with nutplates. He also made access panels in the fwd baggage compartment
so he could get at the back of the panel, and put an inspection cover in
the aft baggage compartment so that he could see the elev bellcrank without
removing the whole baggage compartment. He said if you plan on flying your
airplane much you'll thank yourself over and over for doing everything
possible to make maintenance and inspection easier. From my A&P experience
turning wrenches I can agree with his position.
With respect to the floors, I haven't decided yet on my -8A how much (if
any) will really need to be removeable. It does add time/weight to install
platenuts and screws and inspection covers, so unless there's really
something you need access to, it may not be worth the trouble.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A skinning fuselage
From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
rv-list
Subject: RV-List: RV8 cabin floors
Hi Folks
Has anybody out there building an -8 given any thought to screwing all
flooring down rather than using pop rivets ??
Seems to me that with an aft battery there are areas where you cannot
get to without drilling the pop rivets out if one follows Van's plan of
running the wiring.
Even something as simple as running a rudder cable (yes, I realize that
the cable is run early on in the building process) or inspecting the
cable (rudder or electric) for that matter around the F806 area becomes
an interesting job during the yearly inspection.
Gert
80721
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Building Metal versus Fiberglass Airplanes - Long post |
Garry I dont know if you mean the aluminum or
composite will be much lighter but in my experience
the composite will be lighter per square foot than
aluminum. And stronger, that said the composite
airplane if left out in the sun during a hot summer
day should not be flown to it's aerobatic limits until
cooled off by airspeed and altitude (the higher you go
the cooler it gets) as the composite airplane has a
tendancy to loose strength at high temps. The benefit
of an aluminum airplane is you can wring it out be it
hot or cold. There is a slight weight penalty for the
aluminum vs. composite but aluminum is easier to
repair and in my opinion work on. Each type has it's
pros and cons. For instance when you have a crack in
the composite structure using a eddy current machine
which is common in the industry you cannot tell where
the crack has stopped, hence doing a repair to a
cracked composite surface you must cut a hole larger
than the expected crack by about 10% to reduce any
missed cracking. On an aluminum airplane there is no
guess work, you cut the hole, deburr and install a
gusset to repair. These are just a few examples for
and against each type of structure. Regardless,
composite technology is still new and will most
undoubtably be the replacement for aluminum as faith
in the product is daily becoming more confident.
However aluminum has been around for awhile and will
be for some time to come. (if it aint broke don't fix
it)
Glenn Williams
--- Garry LeGare wrote:
> <"versadek"@earthlink.net>
>
> Great comparison Randy,
> The only area I disagree with you is on weight. An
> aluminum aircraft of the
> same type and size will be lighter. This is because
> composite airframes must
> be much stronger to withstand ground handling
> damage. An overstated example
> is Voyager (Dick & Jeana's round the world ride).
> This carbon fiber epoxy
> structure was so susceptible to ground handling
> damage it had to be guarded
> when out in public. An average man could destroy the
> aileron by squeezing it
> with his bare hand.
> Like you I don't have a major preference to airframe
> construction materials.
>
> I believe most of the RV builders who complain about
> fiberglass are the ones
> that have used the older polyester/glass parts which
> were sadly lacking.
> The newer vacuum bagged epoxy/glass parts are a
> major improvement, but are
> still not up to the standard of the better composite
> parts manufacturers.
> However in Van's defense, his reasonable kit and
> component prices more than
> make up for this.
> Garry, "6" Finishing (filling and sanding fiberglass
> parts)
>
>
> "Randy J. Pflanzer" wrote:
>
>
> >
> > A number of folks have asked me to post my
> opinions regarding the
> > differences in building a RV type aircraft versus
> building a fiberglass
> > airplane. Since I have built one of each, I will
> share my perspectives
> > on the relative pros and cons of each. Please
> remember that these are
> > my opinions only and they are worth what you paid
> for them. If you want
> > to disagree with me, go for it. My skin is pretty
> thick.
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: opposite aileron in spin |
Nice note Ken, I concur.
I have found that wood prop equipped -4's will spin
slightly faster and flatter than the metal prop models
with a more fwd CG. Even five extra pounds forward of
the spar makes a huge difference in spin behavior.
(ie. full fuel vs empty) Forced yaw rate departures
(full aft stick opposite rudder/aileron cross control
at stall) are also recoverable in 1-2 turns with
standard inputs. Botched hammerheads will sometimes
result in an inverted spin entry but the -4 will right
itself with no inputs in 1-2 turns.
Note: Spins are fun and build confidence, airmanship
and precision. Leave the rear seat empty and wear a
chute.....
Rob Ray
N557RR
--- Melvinke(at)aol.com wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: Melvinke(at)aol.com
>
> Applying opposite aileron during an established spin
> in the RV4 makes no
> discernable difference to the quite vigorous
> gyrations, but in other
> aircraft causes further stalling the inboard wing,
> intensifying the spin. If
> you are experiencing difficulty in getting the plane
> to enter a spin - as
> with a far forward CG - the application of opposite
> aileron may provide just
> the needed extra stimulus. The RV4 spins rapidly,
> with the nose rising to the
> horizon and back down vertically with each rotation,
> rather similar to that
> experienced in the P51 Mustang - but losing less
> than half the altitude per
> turn. I have experienced the RV4 flip on its back in
> entering a spin only
> with a very aft CG, entering with nose way high. In
> all of these
> circumstances, the RV 4 spin is nothing to be
> feared, and recovery is
> immediate within half a turn, applying standard
> recovery technique -
> deliberate application of full opposite rudder,
> followed by checking forward
> on the stick as soon as the rotation slows. The spin
> can be flattened by
> application of power, but this is not a good idea!
> Ken Melvin, N36KM.
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Building Metal versus Fiberglass Airplanes - Long post |
Glenn wrote:....snip... composite technology is still new and will most
undoubtably be the replacement for aluminum as faith in the product is daily
becoming more confident. However aluminum has been around for awhile and
will be for some time to come. (if it aint broke don't fix it) <<
Good post Glenn! However, I am doing a good job of priming so that I
"could" leave it sitting outside in the elements for 20 or 30 years knowing
that I would be able to look any prospective buyer in the eye when I tell
him about the great condition of the airframe. What is the history of those
fiberglass owners with outside storage (sun, snow, etc.) - - and tell me
about one happy buyer under those conditions. I don't think anybody knows
whether those plastic planes will be flyable for 30 years after a mixture of
conditions. Flames welcome --- only if you have the proven experience.
Ernest Kells
RV-9A - Building Wings, Planning: O-235 Wood Prop
Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rpflanze(at)iquest.net |
| Subject: | Re: Building Metal versus Fiberglass Airplanes - Long post |
Statistcally, I don't think that's true that aluminum is lighter. Can you imagine
if the Voyager had been built out of aluminum? Remember that Voyager was built
for a very specific mission. The surface skins were just strong enough to maintain
aerodynamic shape given the force of the wind. Direct pressure perpindicular
to the skin could punch a hole in it. They made it as light as possible to
accomplish the mission.
My Long-EZ carried almost the same fuel, had a greater wing span, about the
same baggage area, carried two people, and only weighed 850 lbs empty. Now,
it's not the same airplane as an RV, but part for part, I think the Long was
lighter. At least I remember picking up one of my wings by myself, a feat that
I would never attempt with my RV. How's that for a scientific comparison?
Randy
>
>Great comparison Randy,
>The only area I disagree with you is on weight. An aluminum aircraft of the
>same type and size will be lighter. This is because composite airframes must
>be much stronger to withstand ground handling damage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> |
| Subject: | cowl hinge pins top firewall |
I want to know what the secret is to getting the pin through the piano
hinges on the top (curved part) of the fire wall. I have a nice smooth curve
in the hinge but when I try to push the pin in I usually bend it or it just
stops at about 3/4 of the way in. I even tried Boelube on the pin.
Help!!!!
Larry
Hawkins, RV-4, Farmington, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Building Metal versus Fiberglass Airplanes - Long post |
Hence my motto (from a T-shirt that is no longer being
sold) Friends don't let friends fly plastic airplanes.
Glenn
--- Ernest Kells wrote:
>
>
>
> Glenn wrote:....snip... composite technology is
> still new and will most
> undoubtably be the replacement for aluminum as faith
> in the product is daily
> becoming more confident. However aluminum has been
> around for awhile and
> will be for some time to come. (if it aint broke
> don't fix it) <<
>
> Good post Glenn! However, I am doing a good job of
> priming so that I
> "could" leave it sitting outside in the elements for
> 20 or 30 years knowing
> that I would be able to look any prospective buyer
> in the eye when I tell
> him about the great condition of the airframe. What
> is the history of those
> fiberglass owners with outside storage (sun, snow,
> etc.) - - and tell me
> about one happy buyer under those conditions. I
> don't think anybody knows
> whether those plastic planes will be flyable for 30
> years after a mixture of
> conditions. Flames welcome --- only if you have the
> proven experience.
> Ernest Kells
> RV-9A - Building Wings, Planning: O-235 Wood Prop
> Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wing wire conduit/placement (rib) |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Just clear the bellcrank & if you get close to an edge like Dummy did,
consider who you are going to buck the rivets.
Don Jordan RV6A Arlington, Tx
*****************************************
>
> I am about to drill holes for conduit. Geo. Orndorff recommends 9
> inches from
> front of rib (main of course) and 1 inch up from flange-tooling hole
> side.
> When I measured this on the bell crank rib-this measurement will run
> directly
> into the bell crank area, specifically the bracket. Suggestions?????
> I plan
> to use the flex. that van sells. Are there anything I need to be
> aware of if
> I run at a different location on the main ribs? Thanks guys, Bob
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "<Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com> |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with ESMTP id
for" ;
Wed,
31 Jan 2001 14:52:02.-0500(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Brake Pedal Adjustment |
01/31/2001 02:55:07 PM
Seems that Matco makes an adjusting "plunger" (stainless piece that goes
into the gold body) that will fit your brake cylinders. It has a threaded
clevis on top that allows you to easily adjust the top of your brake pedals
fore and aft. Per George at Matco, this is the same brake cylinder Van uses
with an adjusting plunger. George indicated that he would be willing to
just sell the plungers. Sorry I don't have a price or phone # here at work.
Sounds easier than redrilling the brackets.
Eric Henson
Coconut Crick Florida
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Building Metal versus Fiberglass Airplanes - Long post |
01/31/2001 03:43:04 PM
Didn't the GLASTAR manfactuer Glasair go to a metal wing because the glass
wing was way to heavy ??
rpflanze(at)iquest.net
Sent by: To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
owner-rv-list-server@mat cc:
ronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Building
Metal versus Fiberglass
Airplanes - Long post
01/31/2001 02:20 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
Statistcally, I don't think that's true that aluminum is lighter. Can you
imagine
if the Voyager had been built out of aluminum? Remember that Voyager was
built
for a very specific mission. The surface skins were just strong enough to
maintain
aerodynamic shape given the force of the wind. Direct pressure
perpindicular
to the skin could punch a hole in it. They made it as light as possible to
accomplish the mission.
My Long-EZ carried almost the same fuel, had a greater wing span, about the
same baggage area, carried two people, and only weighed 850 lbs empty.
Now,
it's not the same airplane as an RV, but part for part, I think the Long
was
lighter. At least I remember picking up one of my wings by myself, a feat
that
I would never attempt with my RV. How's that for a scientific comparison?
Randy
>
>Great comparison Randy,
>The only area I disagree with you is on weight. An aluminum aircraft of
the
>same type and size will be lighter. This is because composite airframes
must
>be much stronger to withstand ground handling damage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Building Metal versus Fiberglass Airplanes - Long post |
Yes . . . and also because of the way they needed to configure the wing to
have it fold.
----- Original Message -----
From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 1:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Building Metal versus Fiberglass Airplanes - Long post
>
> Didn't the GLASTAR manfactuer Glasair go to a metal wing because the glass
> wing was way to heavy ??
>
>
> rpflanze(at)iquest.net
> Sent by: To:
rv-list(at)matronics.com
> owner-rv-list-server@mat cc:
> ronics.com Subject: Re:
RV-List: Building Metal versus Fiberglass
> Airplanes - Long post
>
> 01/31/2001 02:20 PM
> Please respond to
> rv-list
>
>
> Statistcally, I don't think that's true that aluminum is lighter. Can you
> imagine
> if the Voyager had been built out of aluminum? Remember that Voyager was
> built
> for a very specific mission. The surface skins were just strong enough to
> maintain
> aerodynamic shape given the force of the wind. Direct pressure
> perpindicular
> to the skin could punch a hole in it. They made it as light as possible
to
> accomplish the mission.
>
> My Long-EZ carried almost the same fuel, had a greater wing span, about
the
> same baggage area, carried two people, and only weighed 850 lbs empty.
> Now,
> it's not the same airplane as an RV, but part for part, I think the Long
> was
> lighter. At least I remember picking up one of my wings by myself, a feat
> that
> I would never attempt with my RV. How's that for a scientific comparison?
>
> Randy
>
> >
> >Great comparison Randy,
> >The only area I disagree with you is on weight. An aluminum aircraft of
> the
>
> >same type and size will be lighter. This is because composite airframes
> must
>
> >be much stronger to withstand ground handling damage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Collet , B Nut , Bug Nut , Bodin Cable , bowdin , boden , |
pinch
...
01/31/2001 04:17:30 PM
Your last name isn't Bowden is it ????
SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM
Sent by: To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
owner-rv-list-server@mat cc:
ronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Collet
, B Nut , Bug Nut , Bodin
Cable , bowdin , boden , pinch
...
01/31/2001 12:16 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
In a message dated 01/31/2001 9:46:24 AM Eastern Standard Time,
pcondon(at)csc.com writes:
<< Re-posted for future e-searching. (don't know the proper spelling for
the
bodin cable) >>
for search purposes (and not because I'm anal-retentive) I believe it's
"Bowden cable." -- one of the few things pertaining to airplane building
that I _am_ fairly sure of.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | cowl hinge pins top firewall |
I had the same problem. First thing, make sure that you're using the right
pin, which is, I think, the .063 pin. It is much smaller in diameter than
the eyes, which are, I believe, .125. Then try chucking the pin in drill
and turning it, lubricated with BOLUBE to sort of smooth out the holes.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
-----Original Message-----
I want to know what the secret is to getting the pin through the piano
hinges on the top (curved part) of the fire wall. I have a nice smooth curve
in the hinge but when I try to push the pin in I usually bend it or it just
stops at about 3/4 of the way in. I even tried Boelube on the pin.
Help!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Builder Assistance available!! |
Builder Assistance is now available in Wichita Kansas. Wiechman Aircraft
Inc. has an opening available for any RV-series aircraft. Can help build
entire kit to flying condition or help with any stage along the way. I am an
Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic with Inspection Authorization and have more
than 12 years experience with building metal aircraft. If you need
assistance, please call Todd at 316-721-5670 and we can discuss your
specific needs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Building Metal versus Fiberglass Airplanes - Long post |
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> Didn't the GLASTAR manfactuer Glasair go to a metal wing because the glass
> wing was way to heavy ??
>
I remember helping a friend move the wing of a Glasair III he was working on.
All we had to do was flip it over
180 degrees and lay it back down on a some saw horses. Even with 6 guys heaving
on the thing, it was not an easy
job. Contrast that to an RV wing which can be moved of flipped over by a single
person. (even me).
Now I admit that the Glasair wing is a single unit as ours are left and right,
but geez that thing was heavy.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com> |
Tail kit, wing kit, and fuselage kit.
Tail complete minus fiberglass, firewall, spars, and F-404 completed.
Everything primered inside. A&P IA built in Wichita Kansas. Must sale due to
buying nearly completed RV-4..
Can build to suit for you (help you that is). Asking $8500.00. Please
contact me online or offline at 316-721-5670 and ask for Todd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cowl hinge pins top firewall |
01/31/2001 04:53:47 PM
Its been awhile but I think the pin you use is slightly smaller in diameter
then the pin is (that came with the hinge). I bypassed this issue by using
nutplates & C/S screws to hold the hinge onto the cowl top (fiberglass).
The pins stay inserted allways and I remove the #8 screws to remove the
cowl.....Works well & I have the advantage of the hinge as a mount method,
only I use screws to remove the cowl from the hinge. This is one of MANY
ways to do it......
Larry Hawkins
To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com
'"
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: RV-List: cowl
hinge pins top firewall
ronics.com
01/31/2001 02:37 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
I want to know what the secret is to getting the pin through the piano
hinges on the top (curved part) of the fire wall. I have a nice smooth
curve
in the hinge but when I try to push the pin in I usually bend it or it just
stops at about 3/4 of the way in. I even tried Boelube on the pin.
Help!!!!
Larry
Hawkins, RV-4, Farmington, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | cowl hinge pins top firewall |
Try a chisel cut on the end of the pin. I have a 90 degree bend in the pin
to act as a handle. This bend also allows for making the chisel cut
orientated so that the leading edge of the chisel cut is on the bottom of
the pin (the bend tells you how the pin is rotated). This orientation made
the difference between not getting the pin in at all and going in without
too much force.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (systems)
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Hawkins
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 2:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: cowl hinge pins top firewall
I want to know what the secret is to getting the pin through the piano
hinges on the top (curved part) of the fire wall. I have a nice smooth curve
in the hinge but when I try to push the pin in I usually bend it or it just
stops at about 3/4 of the way in. I even tried Boelube on the pin.
Help!!!!
Larry
Hawkins, RV-4, Farmington, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cowl hinge pins top firewall |
I believe the correct diameter pin is .090".
Gary Zilik
>
> I had the same problem. First thing, make sure that you're using the right
> pin, which is, I think, the .063 pin. It is much smaller in diameter than
> the eyes, which are, I believe, .125. Then try chucking the pin in drill
> and turning it, lubricated with BOLUBE to sort of smooth out the holes.
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, VT
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Building Metal versus Fiberglass Airplanes - Long post |
>Statistcally, I don't think that's true that aluminum is lighter. Can
you
>imagine
>if the Voyager had been built out of aluminum? Remember that Voyager was
built
>for a very specific mission. The surface skins were just strong enough
to
>maintain
>aerodynamic shape given the force of the wind. Direct pressure
perpindicular
>to the skin could punch a hole in it. They made it as light as possible
to
>accomplish the mission.
You could do the same thing in aluminum by using very thin sheet, would
be hard not to dent the skins in ground handling and when building, but
the material allows it.
>lighter. At least I remember picking up one of my wings by myself, a
feat that
>I would never attempt with my RV. How's that for a scientific
comparison?
I don't have any trouble picking up and moving my RV-8 wings myself.
A little awkward and long, but not very heavy (This is with the fuel tanks
attached), less than 50lbs each I think.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
President and Founder Friends of P-Chan
RV-8 80091 Starting fuse jig.
1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Flexible Glazing Putty |
Hello,
I just started using a fiarly new product called Poly-Flex. It is a
flexible polyester glazing putty that was made for filling flexible
automobile parts such as painted bumpers. I am using it to smooth out
the transition area from the forward top fuselage skin to the tip-up
canopy skin on my RV-6. For the most part it is a really nice fit, but
there are a few places I wanted to smooth out. I figured this glazing
putty will work better than the regular stuff which is much more
brittle.
Even though this stuff remains flexible, it is hard, sands nicely and
accepts paint and primers. I don't know how regular glazing putty holds
up on a vibrating airframe, but I figure this stuff should do even
better.
For anyone interested in this product, here is some more info on the
manufacturer:
Poly-Flex
Flexible Polyester Glazing Putty
Evercoat Brand
FibreGlass-Evercoat
a division of Illinois Tool Works, Inc
6600 Cornell Road, Cincinatti, OH
513-489-7600
-Glenn Gordon
N442E Reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Riley <richard(at)riley.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Building Metal versus Fiberglass Airplanes - Long |
post
Composite wings don't HAVE to be heavy. Ours weigh 60 lbs ready to paint,
aileron installed. And with ours that includes a vertical stab and rudder.
You can walk on it without any fear of denting it. I wouldn't want to cary
one around alone but that's just because it's clumsy.
All depends on how you design it.
>
>pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
>>
>> Didn't the GLASTAR manfactuer Glasair go to a metal wing because the glass
>> wing was way to heavy ??
>>
>
>I remember helping a friend move the wing of a Glasair III he was working
on. All we had to do was flip it over
>180 degrees and lay it back down on a some saw horses. Even with 6 guys
heaving on the thing, it was not an easy
>job. Contrast that to an RV wing which can be moved of flipped over by a
single person. (even me).
>
>Now I admit that the Glasair wing is a single unit as ours are left and
right, but geez that thing was heavy.
>
>Andy
>
>
Richard Riley
Renaissance Composites
3025 Airport Ave
Santa Monica, CA 90405
310.391.1943
www.berkut.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | cowl hinge pins top firewall |
Ingenious! I'm going to try that out!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: pcondon(at)csc.com [mailto:pcondon(at)csc.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 1:59 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: cowl hinge pins top firewall
Its been awhile but I think the pin you use is slightly
smaller in diameter
then the pin is (that came with the hinge). I bypassed this
issue by using
nutplates & C/S screws to hold the hinge onto the cowl top
(fiberglass).
The pins stay inserted allways and I remove the #8 screws to
remove the
cowl.....Works well & I have the advantage of the hinge as a
mount method,
only I use screws to remove the cowl from the hinge. This is
one of MANY
ways to do it......
Larry Hawkins
To:
"'rv-list(at)matronics.com '"
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject:
RV-List: cowl hinge pins top firewall
ronics.com
01/31/2001 02:37 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
I want to know what the secret is to getting the pin through
the piano
hinges on the top (curved part) of the fire wall. I have a
nice smooth
curve
in the hinge but when I try to push the pin in I usually
bend it or it just
stops at about 3/4 of the way in. I even tried Boelube on
the pin.
Help!!!!
Larry
Hawkins, RV-4, Farmington, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: back riveting the rudder |
By the time the rivet is driven the hole is a lot larger than you would
have with either the 40 or 41 drill. any builder who has drilled out
rivets can tell you this and if they tell you they never made mistakes
and had to drill out rivets , they would probably lie about other
things.When you follow the manual and use size 40 drills it will work
just fine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Voltmeter for sale |
Fellow Listers:
I have an excess Mitchell 2 1/4" voltmeter that I will not need. It is
brand new. First $30 takes it.
Doug Weiler
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Flexible Glazing Putty |
In a message dated 1/31/01 6:07:16 PM Eastern Standard Time,
foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net writes:
<<
Poly-Flex
Flexible Polyester Glazing Putty
Evercoat Brand
>>
Hi Glen, wondered where -what kind of store- you purchased the putty? Have
looked for info on the web but no joy. Would like to get data sheet.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flexible Glazing Putty |
How will the windshield hold up, will it craze over time or develop
cracks where it touches the screen.
Gert
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
>
> I just started using a fiarly new product called Poly-Flex. It is a
> flexible polyester glazing putty that was made for filling flexible
> automobile parts such as painted bumpers. I am using it to smooth out
> the transition area from the forward top fuselage skin to the tip-up
> canopy skin on my RV-6. For the most part it is a really nice fit, but
> there are a few places I wanted to smooth out. I figured this glazing
> putty will work better than the regular stuff which is much more
> brittle.
>
> Even though this stuff remains flexible, it is hard, sands nicely and
> accepts paint and primers. I don't know how regular glazing putty holds
> up on a vibrating airframe, but I figure this stuff should do even
> better.
>
> For anyone interested in this product, here is some more info on the
> manufacturer:
>
> Poly-Flex
> Flexible Polyester Glazing Putty
>
> Evercoat Brand
>
> FibreGlass-Evercoat
> a division of Illinois Tool Works, Inc
> 6600 Cornell Road, Cincinatti, OH
> 513-489-7600
>
> -Glenn Gordon
> N442E Reserved
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | tail wheel bearings |
Fellow Listers,
The sealed bearings I used in the Vans tailwheel
are General Bearing p/n 32262-88
They do not sling grease all over the rudder and seem
too last a long time. I have over 300 hrs on mine.
Stewart RV4 Colo.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Building Metal versus Fiberglass Airplanes - Long post |
I believe that the fundamental reason that composite planes are heavier than
aluminum lies in the properties of the materials. Aluminum is isotropic
(within a few percent, depending on sheet roll axis) -- that means it has
the same strength on all axes and is additionally equally strong (for
practical purposes) in tension, compression and torsion. Fiberglass sheet on
the other hand, has great strength in tension but virtually no strength in
compression -- its like a string -- you can pull with it but not push.
Hence additional mass of material is required to help resolve compressional
loads into tension loads -- else supply considerable extra mass to
compensate for the non-isotropic properties.
There are lots of MEs on the list who can word this explanation more
elegantly.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 41 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: rpflanze(at)iquest.net <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
Date: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 1:48 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Building Metal versus Fiberglass Airplanes - Long post
>
>Statistcally, I don't think that's true that aluminum is lighter. Can you
imagine
>if the Voyager had been built out of aluminum? Remember that Voyager was
built
>for a very specific mission. The surface skins were just strong enough to
maintain
>aerodynamic shape given the force of the wind. Direct pressure
perpindicular
>to the skin could punch a hole in it. They made it as light as possible to
>accomplish the mission.
>
>My Long-EZ carried almost the same fuel, had a greater wing span, about the
>same baggage area, carried two people, and only weighed 850 lbs empty.
Now,
>it's not the same airplane as an RV, but part for part, I think the Long
was
>lighter. At least I remember picking up one of my wings by myself, a feat
that
>I would never attempt with my RV. How's that for a scientific comparison?
>
>Randy
>
>>
>>Great comparison Randy,
>>The only area I disagree with you is on weight. An aluminum aircraft of
the
>
>>same type and size will be lighter. This is because composite airframes
must
>
>>be much stronger to withstand ground handling damage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flexible Glazing Putty |
Any Sherwin Williams Automotive paint store...a better product to consider I
just recently found out about is called Piranha Putty...I've used Evercoat,
though, and it works great.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: <DWENSING(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 5:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flexible Glazing Putty
>
> In a message dated 1/31/01 6:07:16 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net writes:
>
> <<
> Poly-Flex
> Flexible Polyester Glazing Putty
>
> Evercoat Brand
> >>
> Hi Glen, wondered where -what kind of store- you purchased the putty? Have
> looked for info on the web but no joy. Would like to get data sheet.
> Dale Ensing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Prop extension for wood props |
Two inch -vs four inch spacers. I didn't know that there had been diff.
cowls for rv-4's. thanks, that clears that up. mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allen Checca" <achecca(at)concentric.net> |
Getting ready to order 6A quickbuild kit. Looking for used tools. Anyone
interested in selling?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stuart B McCurdy <sturdy(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Cabin Floors |
Gert,
I had the same thoughts. I wanted to be able to remove the rear seat
and baggage floors to inspect, clean, find lost items, whatever. So I
bit the bullet and put in nutplates in the normal places for the front
seat flooring, thoughout the rear baggage area, and then adapted the
rear seat area as follows.
I sheared the two floor panels on a line across the aft edge of the hole
for the rear seat crotch strap. I then fabricated a doubler that would
go all the way across that bulkhead that would be pop riveted in under
the two front floor pieces and would have nutplates for the forward edge
of the rear half of the floors. I then notched the rear corners around
the UHMW flap tube hold downs so that the floors could be removed
without removing the flap tube.
Then, for the two remaining forward halves of the rear seat floors, I
decided to pop rivet them in with the aforementioned doubler since you
cannot get them out after the stiffners are riveted. But, to give me
access to the area, I cut doors with a fore/aft piano hinge. I cut
inward just in front of the first stiffner and just aft of the third
stiffner and cut fore/aft at the inside edge of the three stiffners. I
used these stiffners on the doors and attached a piano hinge on the top
so the doors would open up and inward. I then added two stiffners and
doublers to the remaining floor just in front of and just behind the
doors. The doors close on the doublers and the whole area is quite
rigid.
Now I have removable floors under the front seat, rear seat, and rear
baggage area, and two doors left and right between the two seats.
Plenty of access. The whole project added three days to my building
time. Now if I can just stand up after leaning over the side rails
installing all those platenuts. The Avery #8 platenut tool sure helped
by cutting the platenut installation time in half.
Stu McCurdy
RV-3, 74TX
RV-8, on the gear, attaching the tail feathers
From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
rv-list
Subject: RV-List: RV8 cabin floors
Hi Folks
Has anybody out there building an -8 given any thought to screwing all
flooring down rather than using pop rivets ??
Seems to me that with an aft battery there are areas where you cannot
get to without drilling the pop rivets out if one follows Van's plan of
running the wiring.
Even something as simple as running a rudder cable (yes, I realize that
the cable is run early on in the building process) or inspecting the
cable (rudder or electric) for that matter around the F806 area becomes
an interesting job during the yearly inspection.
Gert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Prop extension for wood props |
Well-------------my curiosity is getting the best of me. If you only use a 2
inch spacer, then your cowling is shorter than if you use a 4 inch spacer ?
My cowling requires that i use a four inch spacer for things to match up, and
i use an s-402 spinner which is 12 inch instead of 13. -------- the new
cowlings are shorter and the spinner larger and longer ? [ s602 spinner ]
???????????? It's as clear as mud. hahaha but why?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
After a couple weeks of computer down time and with the GENEROUS help of
fellow list member Bill Vondane (alias tadpole), I've updated my web
site to show the work I've done so far with building the fuel tanks.
More detail will follow, but for web site junkies there are 3 new pages
that will keep you busy for a few minutes.
Follow the link for fuel tanks.
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Gooping up the tanks
Plainfield, IL (LOT)
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flexible Glazing Putty |
The glazing putty is nowhere near the canopy. It is several inches forward
of it on the outside of the airplane. I am feathering it to transition the
tipup skin with the fuse fwd skin.
-Glenn Gordon
> How will the windshield hold up, will it craze over time or develop
> cracks where it touches the screen.
>
> Gert
>
>
> Glenn & Judi wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hello,
> >
> > I just started using a fiarly new product called Poly-Flex. It is a
> > flexible polyester glazing putty that was made for filling flexible
> > automobile parts such as painted bumpers. I am using it to smooth out
> > the transition area from the forward top fuselage skin to the tip-up
> > canopy skin on my RV-6. For the most part it is a really nice fit, but
> > there are a few places I wanted to smooth out. I figured this glazing
> > putty will work better than the regular stuff which is much more
> > brittle.
> >
> > Even though this stuff remains flexible, it is hard, sands nicely and
> > accepts paint and primers. I don't know how regular glazing putty holds
> > up on a vibrating airframe, but I figure this stuff should do even
> > better.
> >
> > For anyone interested in this product, here is some more info on the
> > manufacturer:
> >
> > Poly-Flex
> > Flexible Polyester Glazing Putty
> >
> > Evercoat Brand
> >
> > FibreGlass-Evercoat
> > a division of Illinois Tool Works, Inc
> > 6600 Cornell Road, Cincinatti, OH
> > 513-489-7600
> >
> > -Glenn Gordon
> > N442E Reserved
> >
>
> --
>
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Cabin Floors |
Hey Stu
Thanks...I forgot about the flap stuff when I was eyeballing this
problemo !!
I was thinking of chopping up the floor boards myself too. Seems you
have gone before me here. Great idea !!
Gert
Stuart B McCurdy wrote:
> of the rear half of the floors. I then notched the rear corners around
> the UHMW flap tube hold downs so that the floors could be removed
> without removing the flap tube.
>
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
I don't know if this has been asked before or not (I didn't look) but I have
a question. I'm looking at an O-320 E3D and other than the differences in
compressions ie 150 vs 160 etc., are there any models of O-320's one should
avoid because of production flaws or AD problems or component failures etc
etc?
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Prop extension for wood props |
In a message dated 1/31/01 9:36:08 PM Central Standard Time,
MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< Well-------------my curiosity is getting the best of me. If you only use a
2
inch spacer, then your cowling is shorter than if you use a 4 inch spacer ?
My cowling requires that i use a four inch spacer for things to match up,
and
i use an s-402 spinner which is 12 inch instead of 13. -------- the
new
cowlings are shorter and the spinner larger and longer ? [ s602 spinner ]
???????????? It's as clear as mud. hahaha but why? >>
It's all kind of explained in the Vans accessories catalog 2000 on page 9.
In the box where it says "Van's Cowl Types and Extension Lengths"
"Prior to late 1993, Van's offerred two types of cowls: a short cowl for
constant speed props, and a long cowl for fixed pitch props. After late
1993, all cowls were standardized to the short cowl (still called constant
speed) regardless of the prop type. For the older long fixed pitch cowls,
you must use a 4" extension for fixed pitch propellers. For the short
constant speed cowls, you must use a 2 1/4" extension for fixed pitch
propellers."
Hope that clears it up. I think the pinner is a whole different subject and
depends on whether or not you have a wood prop. See the bottom of page 10
for spinner info.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Light Dimmer Questions |
In a message dated 1/30/01 8:34:13 AM Pacific Standard Time, DWENSING(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< Gary, which lights would you control together? Do you have cabin
lights/map
lights on a separate dimmer? Should I put my cabin lights on a dimmer?
I have all my panel lights controlled by a dimmer in the EXP BUS I am using
and have a dimmer from Electric Bob that I have mounted but not wired
pending
input from others. >>
The post lights are around the flight instruments, the compass, radios and
fuel gauges have internal lighting. These can all be on a single dimmer
circuit as they track similarly. The VM1000 deserves its own dimmer due to
its very efficient backlighting.
My two cabin floods are the small eyeball ones from Van's installed in the
slider canopy side decks so they are used full strength with a little red
transparent nail polish over the ends.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | Electronic Tachometer |
Do any of you electrical wizards know if the output from the Lightspeed
Plasma II electronic ignition will drive Vans Electronic Tachometer.
The Electronic ignition puts out a tach signal, standard 10V square wave
.8ms long, two pulses per rev.
If the Electronic Ignition would drive the tach I would consider
eliminating Vans tach drive from the engine. (RPM drop on run up when
system is switched off would be by ear).
George McNutt
Langley B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | speedunlimited <speedunlimited(at)yahoo.com> |
Bill
I like the paint sceme... I just purchased an RV6... Here is
basically the same colors that you are looking for on mine
http://communities.msn.com/TheHarleyRide&naventryid=141
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
Eric Newton wrote:
> The 2 1/4" prop extension uses only one set of bolts.
> They go through the crush plate, the prop, the extension
> and into the crankshaft flange.
Just received my 2 1/4 extension from Saber yesterday(*).
It's got 12 holes and 6 flange lugs. 6 bolts hold the
extension to the flange (recessed heads to miss the prop)
and 6 bolts hold the prop to the extension. A 6-holer
like you describe is available but certainly not the only
option. I didn't like the idea of those loooong bolts
either, especially with 3/8" lugs in the crank,
(*) and it's a work of art.
Dave 'lugged' Hyde
nauga(at)brick.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | Electronic Tachometer |
George,
I'm not sure which unit Van's sells, but I had to have my Electronics
International unit modified by the factory so it would interface properly
with Jeff Rose's Electronic ignition tach output...
Fred Stucklen
International Fuels Cells LLC
100 Bidwell Road
S. Windsor, CT 06074
Phone: (860)-727-2393
FAX: (860)-727-2319
Email: stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com
____
From: George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca>
Subject: RV-List: Electronic Tachometer
Do any of you electrical wizards know if the output from the
Lightspeed
Plasma II electronic ignition will drive Vans Electronic Tachometer.
The Electronic ignition puts out a tach signal, standard 10V square
wave
.8ms long, two pulses per rev.
If the Electronic Ignition would drive the tach I would consider
eliminating Vans tach drive from the engine. (RPM drop on run up
when
system is switched off would be by ear).
George McNutt
Langley B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oil filler allignment |
I just finished hanging my 0360 in my RV-4. I have discovered that the oil
filler assembly cannot be installed because it hits one of the engine mount
braces. I seem to recall that others have had this problem, but I couldn't
find the right search words. Any solutions out there?
Ray Grenier
RV-4, finally working FWF.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Tail light installation question |
My fellow listers:
I have the combination white light & strobe from Van's, which I plan to
install on my rudder bottom (the one designed for a tail light). The aft
flat end on the rudder bottom looks like it was tailor made for the light
assembly, but there isn't a whole lot of room inside the fiberglass bottom
for attaching the unit. I'm curious as to what methods have been used to
attach that light to the fairing so it is secure, but easy to service.
Thanks in advance!
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A N143DJ
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-320 engines |
do not buy the h2ad it has one dual mag driven by one
gear if it fails the fan quits turning. (the engine
has a nickname "widowmaker')
--- Greg Tanner wrote:
>
>
> I don't know if this has been asked before or not (I
> didn't look) but I have
> a question. I'm looking at an O-320 E3D and other
> than the differences in
> compressions ie 150 vs 160 etc., are there any
> models of O-320's one should
> avoid because of production flaws or AD problems or
> component failures etc
> etc?
>
> Greg Tanner
> RV-9A Empennage
> SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: O-320 engines |
02/01/2001 09:07:26 AM
Its more of a price issue and money availability issue. If money is no
issue, buy Vans new Lycoming. Like most of us, I had the dollars that
month, tripped over a good deal on a used O-320 and made the deal. In
Other months I would not have had the money or the engine deal would not be
around. My only caution would be to verify with the exhaust manf. (Larry
Vetterman) that your OK with his exhausts. . Other then that, no issues
with model over any other model. I think its more a case of whatever engine
you come across, you snag up.....and whats in the checking account that
month....
"Greg Tanner"
January 25, 2001 - February 01, 2001
RV-Archive.digest.vol-kc