RV-Archive.digest.vol-kd
February 01, 2001 - February 08, 2001
To: "Rv-List"
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: RV-List: O-320
engines
ronics.com
01/31/2001 11:48 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
I don't know if this has been asked before or not (I didn't look) but I
have
a question. I'm looking at an O-320 E3D and other than the differences in
compressions ie 150 vs 160 etc., are there any models of O-320's one should
avoid because of production flaws or AD problems or component failures etc
etc?
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
Listers,
I am to the point of building a hangar for my RV-6. I would like some input
from you as to the size needed to house the aircraft. I figure a 30x30
would do but have several pilots advising me that a 35x40 would be better as
it would be a more universal size that would fit all aircraft.
What are your suggestions?
Thanks for your help.
Douglas G. Murray
Southern Alberta RV-6 C-GRPA Almost done painting and looking for a home at
the airport.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
Funny you should say that...
You are correct in that they are, electrically, two separate magnetos, and
it is possible for the drive gear to fail, which would result in sudden
engine stoppage... BUT... You should note that the same condition can
occur INSIDE a "traditional" engine's accessory case, obviating the
advantage of two physically separate magnetos. You should also note that
the "76" series is also not the only engine to incorporate dual mags, they
are (were, actually, until Continental bought the Bendix magneto business)
quite popular in Lycoming engines.
Please, no flame intended...
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage, O320-H2AD, Catto Prop
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of glenn williams
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 6:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: O-320 engines
do not buy the h2ad it has one dual mag driven by one
gear if it fails the fan quits turning. (the engine
has a nickname "widowmaker')
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: O-320 engines |
02/01/2001 10:23:53 AM
Very politely....B.S. One of the best aviation bargains in Lycommings is
the H2AD. For 4 or 5000 dollars you can strap one on the RV and go flying.
Cam spalding and single mag drive are issues that can be delt with. There
are thousands of 172's out there with this engine.
glenn williams
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: Re: RV-List: O-320
engines
ronics.com
02/01/2001 08:45 AM
Please respond to
rv-list
do not buy the h2ad it has one dual mag driven by one
gear if it fails the fan quits turning. (the engine
has a nickname "widowmaker')
--- Greg Tanner wrote:
>
>
> I don't know if this has been asked before or not (I
> didn't look) but I have
> a question. I'm looking at an O-320 E3D and other
> than the differences in
> compressions ie 150 vs 160 etc., are there any
> models of O-320's one should
> avoid because of production flaws or AD problems or
> component failures etc
> etc?
>
> Greg Tanner
> RV-9A Empennage
> SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tail light installation question |
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
02/01/2001 09:31:56 AM
>I have the combination white light & strobe from Van's, which I plan to
>install on my rudder bottom (the one designed for a tail light). The aft
>flat end on the rudder bottom looks like it was tailor made for the light
>assembly, but there isn't a whole lot of room inside the fiberglass bottom
>for attaching the unit. I'm curious as to what methods have been used to
>attach that light to the fairing so it is secure, but easy to service.
Jim,
Just attach the fairing with #4 platenuts from Cleaveland Tools. This way
no matter how you mount your light assembly you can get to the assembly
later and fix anything that breaks. It took me about two hours to install
all the platenuts and screws.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( Fiberglass and more fiberglass )
O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
http://www.homestead.com/RV8A/files/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shelby Smith <rvaitor(at)home.com> |
It's kinda like horse power, you can never have too much. Our chapter(162)
is building hangers and they are basically 33x42. Pretty large, but there
are still some guys that want more.
--
Shelby Smith
rvaitor(at)home.com
RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
N95EB - reserved
> From: "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 07:12:39 -0700
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Hangar Size
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I am to the point of building a hangar for my RV-6. I would like some input
> from you as to the size needed to house the aircraft. I figure a 30x30
> would do but have several pilots advising me that a 35x40 would be better as
> it would be a more universal size that would fit all aircraft.
> What are your suggestions?
>
> Thanks for your help.
> Douglas G. Murray
> Southern Alberta RV-6 C-GRPA Almost done painting and looking for a home at
> the airport.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Kitz" <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-320 engines |
>
Other then that, no issues
> with model over any other model.
The 0-320-E2G from a Grumman has the carb to the rear of the sump and the
intake tubes will interfere with the motor mount. With it, you need to
either modify the motor mount or purchase a sump, intake tubes, and modify
the internal oil pickup.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
467 hours on just such an engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
I built mine just big enough for a C182 to fit in. Figured it would help
the resale value of the hangar.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Shelby Smith [mailto:rvaitor(at)home.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 7:29 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hangar Size
It's kinda like horse power, you can never have too much.
Our chapter(162)
is building hangers and they are basically 33x42. Pretty
large, but there
are still some guys that want more.
--
Shelby Smith
rvaitor(at)home.com
RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
N95EB - reserved
> From: "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 07:12:39 -0700
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Hangar Size
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I am to the point of building a hangar for my RV-6. I
would like some input
> from you as to the size needed to house the aircraft. I
figure a 30x30
> would do but have several pilots advising me that a 35x40
would be better as
> it would be a more universal size that would fit all
aircraft.
> What are your suggestions?
>
> Thanks for your help.
> Douglas G. Murray
> Southern Alberta RV-6 C-GRPA Almost done painting and
looking for a home at
> the airport.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Houle" <thoule(at)kneehill.com> |
Think about resale Doug.....I wouldn't build anything smaller than 30 x
40.....a 172 has a wing span of about 32' or 36' I think and it's likely
you'll want to have that market available to you if and when you decide to
sell the hanger.
Tim Houle
Three Hills, Alta
rv6
----- Original Message -----
From: Douglas G. Murray <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 7:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hangar Size
>
> Listers,
>
> I am to the point of building a hangar for my RV-6. I would like some
input
> from you as to the size needed to house the aircraft. I figure a 30x30
> would do but have several pilots advising me that a 35x40 would be better
as
> it would be a more universal size that would fit all aircraft.
> What are your suggestions?
>
> Thanks for your help.
> Douglas G. Murray
> Southern Alberta RV-6 C-GRPA Almost done painting and looking for a home
at
> the airport.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Collet , B Nut , Bug Nut , Bodin Cable , bowdin , boden , |
pinchbolt
> However, I believe premature failure of the carb heat cable end for an
O360
> is due to the design of the actuating arm that Van supplies. When I
rigged
> up the door on the FAB on my work bench to check it out, it was apparent
> that the cable would have to make a sharp bend at one end of the throw.
Yes I should have mentioned it in my previous post -- I made a standoff that
put the wire (bowden cable :-) in better alignment in the arm. You can see
this too in my pictures
(http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/fwallfwd.html).
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
I've been tasked with getting wing jacks for our builders group. I need to
find out what size to get that will cover the most (or all if possible) RV
models. I have measurements for the -4, -6, and -6A. Need measurements
(specifically the distance from the floor to the bottom of the wing at the
tie-down location) for -8 and -8A, as well as the -3. Any help would be
appreciated.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail light installation question |
I asked the same question of Tom Emery at the EAA Sportair Workshop last
week at Corona, CA. He said attach it using 2 self-tapping screws. My
glass fairing has a great deal of extra material inside and it would be
impossible to put a nut behind there without doing a bunch of cleanup with a
router.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
Tail done, starting on wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 6:41 AM
Subject: RV-List: Tail light installation question
> My fellow listers:
> I have the combination white light & strobe from Van's, which I plan to
> install on my rudder bottom (the one designed for a tail light). The aft
> flat end on the rudder bottom looks like it was tailor made for the light
> assembly, but there isn't a whole lot of room inside the fiberglass bottom
> for attaching the unit. I'm curious as to what methods have been used to
> attach that light to the fairing so it is secure, but easy to service.
> Thanks in advance!
> Jim Bower
> St. Louis, MO
> RV-6A N143DJ
> Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: O-320 engines |
In a message dated 02/01/2001 10:29:28 AM Eastern Standard Time,
pcondon(at)csc.com writes:
<< Cam spalding and single mag drive are issues that can be delt with. >>
ANY issue can be dealt with if you have the time and money. My very recent
adventure with cam spalling cost 7 weeks of down time and about 2K for parts.
"Bolt on and fly" works.... question is: for how long.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Randall, I can't help on the measurements but I bought jacks from
http://www.aircraftjacks.com for our builders group. Model number is 421 and
they are 20 or so inches tall and jack to twice that height. Great jacks and
they have lifted 6A's and and an 8 that I know of. Call them, they have
operators standing by 24/7. blew me away.
Gary Zilik
>
> I've been tasked with getting wing jacks for our builders group. I need to
> find out what size to get that will cover the most (or all if possible) RV
> models. I have measurements for the -4, -6, and -6A. Need measurements
> (specifically the distance from the floor to the bottom of the wing at the
> tie-down location) for -8 and -8A, as well as the -3. Any help would be
> appreciated.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: O-320 engines |
02/01/2001 01:44:01 PM
The -E2G won't fit because of the mount on a RV-6A or RV-9. It will fit on
a RV-3, RV-4, RV-6 tail dragger. An easy thing to kep in mind is when you
find a used engine, e-mail this group and ask if anyone used that
particular engine. Odds are someone has because there are thousands of
RV-X's flying and on a handfull of available engines types in real use.
"John Kitz"
To:
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: Re: RV-List: O-320
engines
ronics.com
02/01/2001 11:06 AM
Please respond to
rv-list
>
Other then that, no issues
> with model over any other model.
The 0-320-E2G from a Grumman has the carb to the rear of the sump and the
intake tubes will interfere with the motor mount. With it, you need to
either modify the motor mount or purchase a sump, intake tubes, and modify
the internal oil pickup.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
467 hours on just such an engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Building Metal versus Fiberglass Airplanes - Long post |
Randy,
I stated in my post an aluminum aircraft of the same type and size will be lighter
than
a comparable composite aircraft. I chose the Voyager to overstate a point.
Voyager would not have been successful had it been built from fiberglass/epoxy
or
aluminum. Only with the use of a material like carbon/graphite, and designing the
airframe with no consideration for ground handling damage, could the airframe have
been
made light enough.
You proved my point for me when you stated, "The surface skins were just strong
enough
to maintain aerodynamic shape given the force of the wind."
Remember the aluminum canard that Burt Rutan used in his mold less composite
demonstrations? It was lighter than the duplicate fiberglass/epoxy part. Lighter
yes,
but much more difficult to build, and that was the point of Burt's Mold less
Construction demonstrations.
I'll assume that you built your Long's canard, ask yourself was it easier to build
than
the stab on my "6". We both know the answer.
Let's not waste anymore bandwidth on this.
If you would like to continue this discussion please contact me off list.
Garry "6" still Filling & Sanding that darn fiberglass.
rpflanze(at)iquest.net wrote:
>
> Statistcally, I don't think that's true that aluminum is lighter. Can you imagine
> if the Voyager had been built out of aluminum? Remember that Voyager was built
> for a very specific mission. The surface skins were just strong enough to maintain
> aerodynamic shape given the force of the wind. Direct pressure perpindicular
> to the skin could punch a hole in it. They made it as light as possible to
> accomplish the mission.
>
> My Long-EZ carried almost the same fuel, had a greater wing span, about the
> same baggage area, carried two people, and only weighed 850 lbs empty. Now,
> it's not the same airplane as an RV, but part for part, I think the Long was
> lighter. At least I remember picking up one of my wings by myself, a feat that
> I would never attempt with my RV. How's that for a scientific comparison?
>
> Randy
>
> >
> >Great comparison Randy,
> >The only area I disagree with you is on weight. An aluminum aircraft of the
>
> >same type and size will be lighter. This is because composite airframes must
>
> >be much stronger to withstand ground handling damage
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
I've been thinking about buying a set of their jacks but they use a non-standard
safety locking system. Whats your experience been and have you ever had any
slip.
Bruce
Gary Zilik wrote:
>
> Randall, I can't help on the measurements but I bought jacks from
> http://www.aircraftjacks.com for our builders group. Model number is 421 and
> they are 20 or so inches tall and jack to twice that height. Great jacks and
> they have lifted 6A's and and an 8 that I know of. Call them, they have
> operators standing by 24/7. blew me away.
>
> Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Rowles <lmrowles(at)netspace.net.au> |
>
>Listers,
>
>I am to the point of building a hangar for my RV-6. I would like some input
>from you as to the size needed to house the aircraft. I figure a 30x30
>would do but have several pilots advising me that a 35x40 would be better as
>it would be a more universal size that would fit all aircraft.
>What are your suggestions?
>
Too much is never enough..............
Les Rowles.
Traralgon Australia.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Kearns <ewkearns(at)triad.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Alternate Engines |
First let me say that I am a new subscriber and I suspect that this topic
has come up before and the battle fought then.......
However, I gotta ask.......
Has anybody tried the Chevy Vortec conversion for the RV-6? I've heard
most of the reasons that an auto engine isn't built for an airplane and
that it won't work. Is there another side to this argument? Has anybody
got any real (not anecdotal) information concerning this course of action?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | earl fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flexible Glazing Putty |
do you think it would take the place of a fiberglass filet around the
front of the canopy? Is it heavy?
Earl RV4
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
>
> I just started using a fiarly new product called Poly-Flex. It is a
> flexible polyester glazing putty that was made for filling flexible
> automobile parts such as painted bumpers. I am using it to smooth out
> the transition area from the forward top fuselage skin to the tip-up
> canopy skin on my RV-6. For the most part it is a really nice fit, but
> there are a few places I wanted to smooth out. I figured this glazing
> putty will work better than the regular stuff which is much more
> brittle.
>
> Even though this stuff remains flexible, it is hard, sands nicely and
> accepts paint and primers. I don't know how regular glazing putty holds
> up on a vibrating airframe, but I figure this stuff should do even
> better.
>
> For anyone interested in this product, here is some more info on the
> manufacturer:
>
> Poly-Flex
> Flexible Polyester Glazing Putty
>
> Evercoat Brand
>
> FibreGlass-Evercoat
> a division of Illinois Tool Works, Inc
> 6600 Cornell Road, Cincinatti, OH
> 513-489-7600
>
> -Glenn Gordon
> N442E Reserved
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
I built mine 36x48, thinking there'd be room for farm equipment, another
airplane project, or an overnight guest's RV in there with mine. My door is
only 28 feet wide, plenty for an RV, but discourages spam-owning neighbors
from wanting to come indoors . To my surprise, I use much of that floor
space just for N30YD and her support paraphernalia, such as fuel storage
drums, workbench, cleaning supplies...
I like to taxi into the hangar under power (it's a hard pull up the grass
ramp with a towbar and one person), shut down, get out and jockey the ship in
a 3-point turn so she ends up pointing nose-out and ready to roll out by hand
next time we fly. If I have the tractor and bush hog in the hangar, which I
do during the grass growing season, it can get surprisingly crowded in there
with that manuevering going on. I have the hangar rash on the wingtips to
prove my point. This said, the airplane itself fits quite comfortably in the
front half of the building, footprint-wise. A 30 wide by 24 deep hangar
would do. But you answered it yourself when you said too much is never quite
enough!
Bill Boyd
RV-6A
Hop-Along Airfield - 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Kitz" <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-320 engines |
I hate to disagree about the -E2G, but the intakes hit the motor mount on
a -4. I have first hand knowledge since I went that route. I had to get a
different sump that moves the carband intakes further forward.
John Kitz
N721JK
0-3200E2G with a -A sump.
----- Original Message -----
>
> The -E2G won't fit because of the mount on a RV-6A or RV-9. It will fit on
> a RV-3, RV-4, RV-6 tail dragger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Attaching VOR Antennas to Belly |
I have a Comant 215, VOR/Glideslope/LOC antenna that I want to mount on the
belly of my 6A near the tail. The whiskers will be facing aft mostly
underneath the horizontal stabilizer. The two whiskers are attached to a
rather odd looking base. It is a 3 inch circular piece of "plastic" with
cut outs on one of the flat surfaces where the coax connector and bolt holes
are located. If it is mounted directly to the belly, the end of the coax
would be out in the weather. It looks like I have (at least) two choices.
The first would be to mount it directly to the belly (with stiffeners) and
fabricate a fairing around the "hockey puck" that would protect the coax and
reduce drag. The second would be to recess the "puck" inside the fuselage
and fabricate some brackets inside to secure it.
Any suggestions??
Ross
RV6-A
9PT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
>
> Listers,
>
> I am to the point of building a hangar for my RV-6. I would like some
input
> from you as to the size needed to house the aircraft. I figure a 30x30
> would do but have several pilots advising me that a 35x40 would be better
as
> it would be a more universal size that would fit all aircraft.
> What are your suggestions?
>
> Thanks for your help.
> Douglas G. Murray
> Southern Alberta RV-6 C-GRPA Almost done painting and looking for a home
at
> the airport.
Douglas,
I would opt for the larger size not only for the reason others have
given, but simply you will find use for the additional room. I have a 30'
long by 40' wide modified Quonset hut (walls are straighter and is shaped
more like an "n" than a half circle). A lot of variation in prices if you
buy the structure, so shop around.
Ed Anderson
Matthews, NC.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 2/1/01 12:46:36 PM Pacific Standard Time,
lmrowles(at)netspace.net.au writes:
>
> dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
> >
> >Listers,
> >
> >I am to the point of building a hangar for my RV-6. I would like some input
> >from you as to the size needed to house the aircraft. I figure a 30x30
> >would do but have several pilots advising me that a 35x40 would be better
> as
> >it would be a more universal size that would fit all aircraft.
> >What are your suggestions?
> >
> Too much is never enough..............
> Les Rowles.
> Traralgon Australia.
>
>
>
How about 150' X 100, then not only keep your RV6 there + a few friends
planes and you can have a party too!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flexible Glazing Putty |
It could NOT take the place of the fiberflass fillet. One of the
ingredients in this putty is Microballoons. From what I know of
Microballoons, they're not meant to be used in applications where strength
is required, only for filling. I purchased the fillet piece from Van's. It
fit great and required very little extra work. But from what I have heard,
not everyone has been happy with the piece.
-Glenn Gordon
> do you think it would take the place of a fiberglass filet around the
> front of the canopy? Is it heavy?
> Earl RV4
>
> Glenn & Judi wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hello,
> >
> > I just started using a fiarly new product called Poly-Flex. It is a
> > flexible polyester glazing putty that was made for filling flexible
> > automobile parts such as painted bumpers. I am using it to smooth out
> > the transition area from the forward top fuselage skin to the tip-up
> > canopy skin on my RV-6. For the most part it is a really nice fit, but
> > there are a few places I wanted to smooth out. I figured this glazing
> > putty will work better than the regular stuff which is much more
> > brittle.
> >
> > Even though this stuff remains flexible, it is hard, sands nicely and
> > accepts paint and primers. I don't know how regular glazing putty holds
> > up on a vibrating airframe, but I figure this stuff should do even
> > better.
> >
> > For anyone interested in this product, here is some more info on the
> > manufacturer:
> >
> > Poly-Flex
> > Flexible Polyester Glazing Putty
> >
> > Evercoat Brand
> >
> > FibreGlass-Evercoat
> > a division of Illinois Tool Works, Inc
> > 6600 Cornell Road, Cincinatti, OH
> > 513-489-7600
> >
> > -Glenn Gordon
> > N442E Reserved
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Alternate Engines |
In a message dated 2/1/01 1:18:53 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ewkearns(at)triad.rr.com writes:
>
> First let me say that I am a new subscriber and I suspect that this topic
> has come up before and the battle fought then.......
>
> However, I gotta ask.......
>
> Has anybody tried the Chevy Vortec conversion for the RV-6? I've heard
> most of the reasons that an auto engine isn't built for an airplane and
> that it won't work. Is there another side to this argument? Has anybody
> got any real (not anecdotal) information concerning this course of action?
>
>
>
See Van R-Vator (sixth and final issue 1998. That should answer most of your
questions.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternate Engines |
> Has anybody tried the Chevy Vortec conversion for the RV-6
It will work. There are several flying. My RV6a was going to have a Chevy
V6 but I gave the idea up. Not because of the simple minded criticism of
those who strongly discourage experimentation nor because it is too heavy
(the most serious criticism). I gave up because one who had done it said
allow a year extra to install and debug the installation. I wanted to get
flying sooner.
There is a ton of stuff in the archives on this and also the Mazda 13B
engines which might be the better option.
In any case, build the airplane first!
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Building Metal versus Fiberglass Airplanes - Long post |
If someone built an RV with no aluminum, we could have a real basis for
comparison. It would have to be built to same 9G ultimate, same costs, etc.
I often wonder if some of the modern packaging plastics would not make great
light and tough airplanes? I bought a pack of batteries the other day and
needed serious tools to get the package open!
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Attaching VOR Antennas to Belly |
> I have a Comant 215, VOR/Glideslope/LOC antenna
Sell it and put the Archer type antenna in the wingtip. Get Electric Bob's
book which has a design that will cost less than $5 to make.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Alternate Engines |
Try this link,
http://www.beltedair.com/project.htm
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 2:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternate Engines
In a message dated 2/1/01 1:18:53 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ewkearns(at)triad.rr.com writes:
>
> First let me say that I am a new subscriber and I suspect that this topic
> has come up before and the battle fought then.......
>
> However, I gotta ask.......
>
> Has anybody tried the Chevy Vortec conversion for the RV-6? I've heard
> most of the reasons that an auto engine isn't built for an airplane and
> that it won't work. Is there another side to this argument? Has anybody
> got any real (not anecdotal) information concerning this course of action?
>
>
See Van R-Vator (sixth and final issue 1998. That should answer most of your
questions.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Hiers" <craig-rv4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop extension for wood props |
The 2 1/4 extension that Woofter(sp)/Saber manufacture is avialable both
way's.
My extension is bolted to the crankshaft flange, and the prop is bolted to
the
extension.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee,FL.
Hal Benjamin email me
> That's true. Also,
> I just studied up on this. The 2 1/4" prop extension uses only one set of
> bolts. They go through the crush plate, the prop, the extension and into
the
> crankshaft flange.
>
>
> Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
> RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (canopy)
> http://
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
If you figure the cost, it's not that much more ususally to build one large
enough for two planes. I put one of those Miracle Steel hangars up - built
it myself except for the slab and the electrical, and it's big enough for my
182 and the 8A. It's 36' X 42'. If it were a little larger, I wouldn't have
to take the RV out if I wanted to fly the 182.
Jerry Carter
8A
Finishing
Listers,
I am to the point of building a hangar for my RV-6. I would like some input
from you as to the size needed to house the aircraft. I figure a 30x30
would do but have several pilots advising me that a 35x40 would be better as
it would be a more universal size that would fit all aircraft.
What are your suggestions?
Thanks for your help.
Douglas G. Murray
Southern Alberta RV-6 C-GRPA Almost done painting and looking for a home at
the airport.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | February Calendar Quiz |
Listers,
So what is wrong with the photo in the Vans Calendar for February?
I will have to say that I did not come up with this ..
-Rob Hickman RV-4
- Still Painting and painting and painting
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Attaching VOR Antennas to Belly |
Ross,
I had the same question when mounting one (CI-215) on my -6. Those molded in
stand-offs or spacers can be cut off to leave you with a 1/2 inch thick
hockey puck. Drill a hole for the BNC connector and two bolt holes and mount
it flush to the outside of the belly skin. It's thin enough you don't need a
fairing. I mounted mine a little further forward to get more gound clearance
for the whiskers, but for the -6a I'd put it on the .040 tailcone skin to
avoid the need for stiffeners.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) wiring & systems
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ross Mickey
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 4:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: Attaching VOR Antennas to Belly
I have a Comant 215, VOR/Glideslope/LOC antenna that I want to mount on the
belly of my 6A near the tail. The whiskers will be facing aft mostly
underneath the horizontal stabilizer. The two whiskers are attached to a
rather odd looking base. It is a 3 inch circular piece of "plastic" with
cut outs on one of the flat surfaces where the coax connector and bolt holes
are located. If it is mounted directly to the belly, the end of the coax
would be out in the weather. It looks like I have (at least) two choices.
The first would be to mount it directly to the belly (with stiffeners) and
fabricate a fairing around the "hockey puck" that would protect the coax and
reduce drag. The second would be to recess the "puck" inside the fuselage
and fabricate some brackets inside to secure it.
Any suggestions??
Ross
RV6-A
9PT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | February Calendar Quiz |
The trees have grown, the house is gone, the hills have grown... :)
Hmmm.... Maybe one picture was taken on the other side of the barn?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Adminstrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
"Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant,
for those who foolishly think that somehow they
can achieve success without paying the price."
-----Original Message-----
From: RobHickman(at)AOL.COM [mailto:RobHickman(at)AOL.COM]
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 3:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: February Calendar Quiz
Listers,
So what is wrong with the photo in the Vans Calendar for February?
I will have to say that I did not come up with this ..
-Rob Hickman RV-4
- Still Painting and painting and painting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternate Engines |
Subject: RV-List: Alternate Engines
>
> First let me say that I am a new subscriber and I suspect that this topic
> has come up before and the battle fought then.......
>
> However, I gotta ask.......
>
> Has anybody tried the Chevy Vortec conversion for the RV-6? I've heard
> most of the reasons that an auto engine isn't built for an airplane and
> that it won't work. Is there another side to this argument? Has anybody
> got any real (not anecdotal) information concerning this course of action?
>
>
Gene,
If seriously interested in alternative engines, I suggest back issues of
CONTACT! magazine that cover the topics you are interested in. Articles
from folks using the Vortec, Subaru, Rotary and other engines. Webpage for
the magazine is:
http://www.nonprofitnet.com/contact/
The publisher has an index of back issues that you can check and order those
of interest.
I fly a Mazda Rotary in an RV-6A.
Best Regards
Ed Anderson
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
Rv-6A N494BW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Date: Thursday, February 01, 2001 1:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: wing jacks
>
>Randall, I can't help on the measurements but I bought jacks from
>http://www.aircraftjacks.com for our builders group. Model number is 421
and
>they are 20 or so inches tall and jack to twice that height. Great jacks
and
>they have lifted 6A's and and an 8 that I know of. Call them, they have
>operators standing by 24/7. blew me away.
>
>Gary Zilik
>
Looks like the place to buy wing jacks. I'm curious why you didn't get the
model 326 for $149 and save $40. The specs seem equivalent except for 4 ton
instead of 3 ton.
Dennis Persyk (I've been borrowing jacks -- you do need them!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Alternate Engines |
I have a friend here in Colorado that builds Chevy's for homebuilts... He
has also written a couple articles for Contact! Magazine...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/fred/index.htm
He doesn't have e-mail, but I can get you in touch with him if you like...
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
> Has anybody tried the Chevy Vortec conversion for the RV-6? I've heard
> most of the reasons that an auto engine isn't built for an airplane and
> that it won't work. Is there another side to this argument? Has anybody
> got any real (not anecdotal) information concerning this course of action?
>
>
Gene,
If seriously interested in alternative engines, I suggest back issues of
CONTACT! magazine that cover the topics you are interested in. Articles
from folks using the Vortec, Subaru, Rotary and other engines. Webpage for
the magazine is:
http://www.nonprofitnet.com/contact/
The publisher has an index of back issues that you can check and order those
of interest.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Attaching VOR Antennas to Belly |
Ross Mickey wrote:
>
>
> I have a Comant 215, VOR/Glideslope/LOC antenna that I want to mount on the
> belly of my 6A near the tail. The whiskers will be facing aft mostly
> underneath the horizontal stabilizer. The two whiskers are attached to a
> rather odd looking base. It is a 3 inch circular piece of "plastic" with
> cut outs on one of the flat surfaces where the coax connector and bolt holes
> are located. If it is mounted directly to the belly, the end of the coax
> would be out in the weather. It looks like I have (at least) two choices.
> The first would be to mount it directly to the belly (with stiffeners) and
> fabricate a fairing around the "hockey puck" that would protect the coax and
> reduce drag. The second would be to recess the "puck" inside the fuselage
> and fabricate some brackets inside to secure it.
>
> Any suggestions??
>
> Ross
> RV6-A
> 9PT
>
I mounted a similiar antennae on top of the vertical stab. Made a
bracket and mounted it so the "hockey puck" sits just above the metal
and protrudes through the sides of the stab tip fairing. It may prove to
be a eye poker but it looks OK.
I had planned on a wingtip antennae but decided against it when one
pilot told me he turned his wingtip strobes off when doing an ILS
approach. He thought the wingtip powerpacks and strobe lights bothered
ILS reception.
George McNutt
Langley B.C.
(Eng mounted today)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | earl fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternate Engines |
If you ever see the S51 mustang with a chevy V8 fly you will say it is
awsome but a bit much for an RV.
Gene Kearns wrote:
>
>
> First let me say that I am a new subscriber and I suspect that this topic
> has come up before and the battle fought then.......
>
> However, I gotta ask.......
>
> Has anybody tried the Chevy Vortec conversion for the RV-6? I've heard
> most of the reasons that an auto engine isn't built for an airplane and
> that it won't work. Is there another side to this argument? Has anybody
> got any real (not anecdotal) information concerning this course of action?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: back issues of RVator |
> I have the 18 years of RVAtor book and know it doesn't contain every
> issue and every article. Is there some other source for the back issues of
> the RVator that I'm not aware of?
18 Years of the RV-ator does contain EVERY technical and builder assistance
article from every issue of the RV-ator through the December 1997 RV-ator. (The
new 21 Year book, covering through 2000 will be available in March.)
Here are the only types of items NOT in the RV-ator books.
1] biographies of specific employees and builders
2] flying stories such as Van's trip to Sun 'N Fun
3] office gossip
4] kit pricing updates and order delays
5] first flight announcements
6] the homecoming party menu
If by chance, something was missed from earlier editions that could be value to
builders, please let me know so I have time to find it and get it into the new
21
year book.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://buildersbooks.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
I've been looking and looking... Anyone see one of those $4-$5 K H2AD's
please let me know A.S.A.P.
Thanks,
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: O-320 engines
> Very politely....B.S. One of the best aviation bargains in Lycommings is
> the H2AD. For 4 or 5000 dollars you can strap one on the RV and go flying.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
Thanks to all who have replied to my hangar size dilema. I thought that I
might get by with a smaller building but after the unanamous vote for
'BIGGER IS BETTER' , I am going to build a hangar 35x40 with 10 foot walls.
That way I will be able to offer inside storage for all the RVs that travel
through Southern Alberta on their way to see Western Canada.
Thanks again for the assistance.-
Douglas G. Murray
Southern Alberta RV-6 Still Painting and sanding and sanding and sanding
....
>
> I built mine 36x48, thinking there'd be room for farm equipment, another
> airplane project, or an overnight guest's RV in there with mine.
SNIP
But you answered it yourself when you said too much is never quite
> enough!
>
> Bill Boyd
> RV-6A
> Hop-Along Airfield - 12VA
> Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
Since you've there, done that what size would fit a 182 and a RV-8A.
KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Carter <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 5:09 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Hangar Size
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Canopy Hole Sizes ? |
Hello all (or as we say in the south "Hi Y'all")
I have read the archives, the 18 years of RVator and the manual and watched
George Orndorff's finish kit tapes. I am now a little confussed on the
proper size for the holes in the Plexiglass.
It appears that during changes in temperature, the plexiglass shrinks and
expands at a different rate than the steel and aluminum it is screwed or
riveted to. Therefore, some of the advise is to drill the holes in the
plexiglass oversize to account for this difference. That makes sense to me
and I can see it wherever the plexiglass is sandwiched between an aluminum
strip and steel or between two strips of aluminum. However, on the RV6/6A
Slider, there are two areas that don't call for any strip of aluminum. The
forward cross bar of the slider is supposed to be drilled 1/8" and the
plexiglass is countersunk. An aluminum rivet pop rivet is then put in with
the head of the rivet directly in the plexiglass and it is riveted the steal
bar. On the windscreen, the plexiglass is screwed directly to the rollbar
again with the screw heads going directly into the plexiglass. The plans
don't call for any aluminum strip or washers.
What have others done?
Thanks,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Velvick <tomvelvick(at)home.com> |
>That way I will be able to offer inside storage for all the RVs that travel
>through Southern Alberta on their way to see Western Canada.
Thank you in advance for your hospitality.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
rv-6a installing instruments
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan McKeen" <amckeen(at)twcny.rr.com> |
| Subject: | For Sale Wood Propeller |
Felix 68x75 Bicamber wood propeller for sale at one half new price,
$375, including shipping in US. It is set up for use with a O-320 with
7/16 inch bolts. This propeller is like new with less than 10 hours of
service. It was purchased as a backup/alternate to my primary Felix
conventional wood propeller. The original propeller with over 400 hours
of service is a cruise prop. The new Bicamber unfortunately also
performs like a cruise propeller (my mistake when I specified what I
wanted), with 2600 RPM full throttle at 8,000 density altitude and 185
MPH airspeed by GPS. I intend to obtain an alternative propeller with
climb configuration and want to recover some of my investment on one of
these cruise propellers. Felix propellers are beautiful pieces of
woodwork.
Reply off list, or call Alan at 315-451-9207
RV-6
N418AL
O-320
160 HP
410 Hours on the Hobbs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Bristol" <bbristol(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: O-320 H2AD engine |
Subject: Fw: RV-List: O-320 engines
List,
In response to Chuck's request the following add was in our Canadian
Plane Trade, Feb 2001 edition:
0320 H2AD, 1938 TT, all logs, good compression, removed from C172, $6500
(Canadian) that should be about $4500 US. Phone 250-523-6301, e-mail
air-mail@fly-bc.com
Bob Bristol RV6A C-GCTZ, 217 hours on my 0320 H2AD powered RV.
>
>I've been looking and looking... Anyone see one of those $4-$5 K H2AD's
>please let me know A.S.A.P.
>
>Thanks,
>
> Chuck
>
>>>>SNIP>>>>>
>> Very politely....B.S. One of the best aviation bargains in Lycommings is
>> the H2AD. For 4 or 5000 dollars you can strap one on the RV and go
flying.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Normanjd(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/31/01 |
Another factor in the quality of you riveting is the brand of dimple dies. I use
Cleveland dies - they are very accurate and produce excellent dimples when
you use a number 41 drill. Once you try Cleveland dies and compare the resulting
dimple to other dies, you will not use the other dies any more. The dimples
are crisper around the edge. Put a flush rivet in the dimple and examine it
under a magnifying glass.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Canopy Holes Size |
Hello all (or as we say in the south "Hi Y'all")
I have read the archives, the 18 years of RVator and the manual and watched
George Orndorff's finish kit tapes. I am now a little confussed on the
proper size for the holes in the Plexiglass.
It appears that during changes in temperature, the plexiglass shrinks and
expands at a different rate than the steel and aluminum it is screwed or
riveted to. Therefore, some of the advise is to drill the holes in the
plexiglass oversize to account for this difference. That makes sense to me
and I can see it wherever the plexiglass is sandwiched between an aluminum
strip and steel or between two strips of aluminum. However, on the RV6/6A
Slider, there are two areas that don't call for any strip of aluminum. The
forward cross bar of the slider is supposed to be drilled 1/8" and the
plexiglass is countersunk. An aluminum rivet pop rivet is then put in with
the head of the rivet directly in the plexiglass and it is riveted the steal
bar. On the windscreen, the plexiglass is screwed directly to the rollbar
again with the screw heads going directly into the plexiglass. The plans
don't call for any aluminum strip or washers.
What have others done?
Thanks,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan & Patty Krueger <pndkrueg(at)gulfsurf.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Low oil temp/CHT |
A friend has been flying his RV-6A for a year now and has been
experiencing colder than normal oil and cylinder temps. He has a new
O360-A1A with a constant speed prop - for example, at normal cruise and
57deg F OAT he is getting 158 deg F oil temp and 295 deg F CHT which are
both lower than he desires. Has anyone else experienced this problem and
how did you get the temperatures up?
Thank you for your help,
Dan Krueger
RV-6A - hooking up the wires
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
| Subject: | Re: O-320 engines |
Greg,
I have an 320-E3D on my -6 with 170hrs on its third life and it has been
good to me. I recall an issue of LPM had good things to say about E-models.
There are a dozen or so AD's that you'd have to pay attention to. As long
as the AD's are complied with, it should be OK.
Anh
N985VU
Maryland
>
>I don't know if this has been asked before or not (I didn't look) but I have
>a question. I'm looking at an O-320 E3D and other than the differences in
>compressions ie 150 vs 160 etc., are there any models of O-320's one should
>avoid because of production flaws or AD problems or component failures etc
>etc?
>
>Greg Tanner
>RV-9A Empennage
>SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM |
Hi Allen,
I used to sell tools for RV building. E-mail me direct on what you need maybe
I can help.
I have some used rivet guns (CLeco Brand), 2 or 3 pnuematic rivet squeezers
w/yokes. Rivet sets for the rivet gun and pnuematic squeezers, files,
mico-stop counter sinks. Just send me a list of what you need.
Thanks
John Danielson
Finishing kit and engine installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A WING KIT |
Order your wings-plenty of time for the extras.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Low oil temp/CHT |
In a message dated 2/1/01 8:25:22 PM Pacific Standard Time,
pndkrueg(at)gulfsurf.infi.net writes:
<< A friend has been flying his RV-6A for a year now and has been
experiencing colder than normal oil and cylinder temps. He has a new
O360-A1A with a constant speed prop - for example, at normal cruise and
57deg F OAT he is getting 158 deg F oil temp and 295 deg F CHT which are
both lower than he desires. Has anyone else experienced this problem and
how did you get the temperatures up? >>
This is a common problem. First satisfy yourself that the gauge and senders
are accurate. Then install an adjustable hinged flap that covers the entire
rear of the oil cooler. Connect it to a push button locking control cable.
Mine is just underneath the main instrument panel on a bracket between my
throttle and prop controls.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A WING KIT |
Daniel,
I am building my wings right now (getting ready to do the tanks.) Most of the
small
parts you will need (fittings, etc.) are included in the wing kit. The plumbing
and
fitting for the pitot tube are included, if you use Van's standard tube you can
buy
it and bolt it on at any later time. The only thing I have had to buy outside
the
kit is the fuel tank sealant (proseal). As for lights, many builders, myself
included, put a plastic conduit in the wings to allow for future wiring runs for
lights, antenas, etc, so those can be added after the wing is finished.
Instructions for this are in the plans.
Besides, if you build your own spars (no reason not too, not that hard and saves
$1000) it will be many months before you start needing other little parts.
Jeff Point
-6 wings
Milwaukee, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Tachometer |
In a message dated Thu, 1 Feb 2001 1:21:25 AM Eastern Standard Time, George McNutt
writes:
The Electronic ignition puts out a tach signal, standard 10V square wave
8ms long, two pulses per rev.
The Van's tach sender has a note on it that it sends 8 pulses per rev. If my information
is correct this means 4 pulses to crank rev.
Hope this helps,
Alan Kritzman
RV-8 Fiberglass, Firewall Fwd, Wire and panel.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "skybolt-aviator" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hangar Size
>
> Listers,
>
> I am to the point of building a hangar for my RV-6. I would like some
input
>I would suggest going with the larger hgr. You never have too much room for
all your stuff.Also would be much eaiser to sell or you might want to build
Van's 4 place if he ever designs one.
Ollie&Lorene Washburn
RV6-A,N795LW,@FD77.
O-360,180HP,C/S,300+hrs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-320 engines |
I just want to say that your right the H2AD is a 4 to
5000 dollar engine and there is a reason it is so
cheap. It was lycomings idea to build a cheap engine
basically using cheap parts to get an engine out there
when the economy was tough and litigation was running
at an all time high on cessna and lycoming. You know
you have a choice in which engine you choose to put on
your bird. If you have confidence in the H2AD go buy
it and fly with it. My point is that I have personally
witnessed several of these engines quit running
because of the mag drive gear shearing and causing
forced landings and subsequent loss or significant
damage to the aircraft that they were being flown in.
My personal opinion is that two seperate mags give you
full redundancy and that is what I will have on my
bird. The best engine that Lycoming has come out with
in my opinion for what it's worth is the O-320E2D. It
is just about bullet proof. Over to you
Glenn Williams
--- pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> Very politely....B.S. One of the best aviation
> bargains in Lycommings is
> the H2AD. For 4 or 5000 dollars you can strap one on
> the RV and go flying.
> Cam spalding and single mag drive are issues that
> can be delt with. There
> are thousands of 172's out there with this engine.
>
>
>
>
>
> glenn williams
>
>
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Sent by:
> cc:
>
> owner-rv-list-server@mat
> Subject: Re: RV-List: O-320 engines
>
> ronics.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 02/01/2001 08:45 AM
>
>
> Please respond to
>
>
> rv-list
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> do not buy the h2ad it has one dual mag driven by
> one
> gear if it fails the fan quits turning. (the engine
> has a nickname "widowmaker')
> --- Greg Tanner wrote:
> >
> >
> > I don't know if this has been asked before or not
> (I
> > didn't look) but I have
> > a question. I'm looking at an O-320 E3D and other
> > than the differences in
> > compressions ie 150 vs 160 etc., are there any
> > models of O-320's one should
> > avoid because of production flaws or AD problems
> or
> > component failures etc
> > etc?
> >
> > Greg Tanner
> > RV-9A Empennage
> > SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
> >
> >
> > through
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> > Matronics!
> >
> >
>
>
> ====
> Glenn Williams
> 8A
> A&P
> N81GW
>
> Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail -
> only $35
> a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3M EXL Wheels |
Bruce
You want to use the SC type wheel.
Charlie Kuss
>
> Guys, I'm very comfortable with fiberglass but metal work leaves me somewhat
> perplexed. What grit and type (AO or SC) of Scotch Brite wheel do you use to
> finish brackets and such.
>
> Bruce
> Glasair III
>
> Greg Tanner wrote:
>
> >
> > Enco has these wheels on sale. 6" x1" for $36.69 Here's the link---go to Hot
> > Deals and abrasives. I've ordered from them and service is pretty good.
> > http://www.use-enco.com/hotdeals/abrasives.htm
> >
> > Greg Tanner
> > RV-9A Empennage
> > SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
In most hangars, both the restroom and the break room are too small. The
restroom, especially, should include at least a small shower.
One way to economize would be to carpet only the work area and not the area
where aircraft sit. Consider also the use of used carpet in the tool crib
and unit room as they will get dirty and oily rather soon.
In your land up north you have little worry about air conditioning costs but
do consider that a high ceiling will make for higher heating costs.
Hal Kempthorne
Hangar Dreamer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
Jerry,
What did your 36x42 cost, and where did you get it?
Chuck
Chuck,
The building kit cost $14,807 from Miracle Steel 1-800-521-0386. I believe
that was delivered. It included painted steel in my choice of color. I don't
have all the figures handy, but my slab cost $5,800.There is about $900
worth of lumber in my hangar. There are incidentals like lift rental (you'll
need one to put this up) as well as a couple of hours of crane rental to
hang the big bifold electric door and a rental of a forklift to unload the
truck. Two guys can do most of the work. I had never built a building
before, and I did it OK (hey, I've never built an airplane before either!)
:>) I got the thing built in a little over a month. They have pretty good
people answering their toll-free help line. The biggest hassle for me was
dealing with local code enforcement types. The rule here is that you don't
have to have a contractor's license if the project is valued under $25,000,
so I was my own contractor.
Good luck,
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A WING KIT |
Hi Daniel,
Most everything that goes on the wing can be added later. You will need to
make some decisions now regarding fuel tank options. I originally ordered
the capacidence senders for electronic fuel guages. After doing some
exploring and pricing of the various gauges, I decided to go with the simple
float system and inexpensive gauges. You need to decide on that before
constructing your tanks. Also, if you want locking fuel caps, they need to
be installed during construction of the wings.
If you want to use the duckworth landing lights, its easier to install them
during construction however it is possible to install them later ( I forgot
to install mine and did it later) but just a little more difficult. The
other stuff can be added later as you decide.
One last thing, decide how you will run your wires (conduit or clamps)
before you finally close the wing up for the last time. I ran conduit and
drilled the ribs before assembly. Drilling them might be more of a challenge
once the skins are on.
A lot of these decisions are made at the time you order your wings.
Good luck and happy building,
By the way, your site looks good!
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Finish Kit - Canopy)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hangar Size
Since you've there, done that what size would fit a 182 and a RV-8A.
KABONG
36' X 42' will work (that's what mine is - the 182 goes in with the tail in
the back, left corner, the RV is then backed straight in so that it fits in
front of the left wing of the 182). 40' X 60' would be great. You get the
best feel by looking at other multi-plane hangars.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Hole Sizes ? |
> On the windscreen, the plexiglass is screwed directly to the
> rollbar
> again with the screw heads going directly into the plexiglass. The
> plans don't call for any aluminum strip or washers.
> What have others done?
Where the plexi is screwed to the frame and roll bar, you will
countersink the plexi. I drilled all my holes slightly oversize -
about 1/32" IIRC - the countersink will keep the screws centered in the
hole; no cap strip is necessary. Do not overtighten those screws!
There are enough that the combined grip will hold.
I have had recommendations that I drill those holes as much as 1/4 inch
and insert donuts of surgical tubing around pan-head screws to let the
canopy "float". You will get different responses and will have to go
the route that is most comfortable for you.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Panel
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "<Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com> |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with ESMTP id
for" ;
Fri,
02 Feb 2001 09:16:41.-0500(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: O-320 engines |
02/02/2001 09:17:29 AM
Most people with H- engines use an electric ignition for redundancy
(magnets on flywheel). There is a fix for every bugaboo associated with the
engine. The engine guys I know that are very experienced with lycos say the
engine is a very good design if you comply with the T mod and the mag
redundancy issue. Funny thing, in Long Beach CA, about '97 two flight
schools lost their Dakotas within weeks of each other. Both due to the
single shaft issue. No bad rep associated with the Dakota?????
Just my opinion
Eric Henson
glenn williams (at)matronics.com on 02/02/2001 08:05:17 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: O-320 engines
I just want to say that your right the H2AD is a 4 to
5000 dollar engine and there is a reason it is so
cheap. It was lycomings idea to build a cheap engine
basically using cheap parts to get an engine out there
when the economy was tough and litigation was running
at an all time high on cessna and lycoming. You know
you have a choice in which engine you choose to put on
your bird. If you have confidence in the H2AD go buy
it and fly with it. My point is that I have personally
witnessed several of these engines quit running
because of the mag drive gear shearing and causing
forced landings and subsequent loss or significant
damage to the aircraft that they were being flown in.
My personal opinion is that two seperate mags give you
full redundancy and that is what I will have on my
bird. The best engine that Lycoming has come out with
in my opinion for what it's worth is the O-320E2D. It
is just about bullet proof. Over to you
Glenn Williams
--- pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> Very politely....B.S. One of the best aviation
> bargains in Lycommings is
> the H2AD. For 4 or 5000 dollars you can strap one on
> the RV and go flying.
> Cam spalding and single mag drive are issues that
> can be delt with. There
> are thousands of 172's out there with this engine.
>
>
> glenn williams
>
>
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Sent by:
> cc:
>
> owner-rv-list-server@mat
> Subject: Re: RV-List: O-320 engines
>
> ronics.com
>
>
> 02/01/2001 08:45 AM
>
>
> Please respond to
>
>
> rv-list
>
>
>
>
> do not buy the h2ad it has one dual mag driven by
> one
> gear if it fails the fan quits turning. (the engine
> has a nickname "widowmaker')
> --- Greg Tanner wrote:
> >
> >
> > I don't know if this has been asked before or not
> (I
> > didn't look) but I have
> > a question. I'm looking at an O-320 E3D and other
> > than the differences in
> > compressions ie 150 vs 160 etc., are there any
> > models of O-320's one should
> > avoid because of production flaws or AD problems
> or
> > component failures etc
> > etc?
> >
> > Greg Tanner
> > RV-9A Empennage
> > SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
> >
> >
> > through
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> > Matronics!
> >
> >
>
>
> ====
> Glenn Williams
> 8A
> A&P
> N81GW
>
> Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail -
> only $35
> a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com> |
Tail kit, wing kit, and fuselage kit.
Tail complete minus fiberglass, firewall, spars, and F-404 completed.
Everything primered inside. A&P IA built in Wichita Kansas. Must sale due to
buying nearly completed RV-4..
Can build to suit for you (help you that is). Asking $8500.00. Please
contact me online or offline at 316-721-5670 and ask for Todd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Builder Assistance available!! |
Builder Assistance is now available in Wichita Kansas. Wiechman Aircraft
Inc. has an opening available for any RV-series aircraft. Can help build
entire kit to flying condition or help with any stage along the way. I am an
Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic with Inspection Authorization and have more
than 12 years experience with building metal aircraft. If you need
assistance, please call Todd at 316-721-5670 and we can discuss your
specific needs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Low oil temp/CHT |
Vanremog(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 2/1/01 8:25:22 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> pndkrueg(at)gulfsurf.infi.net writes:
>
> << A friend has been flying his RV-6A for a year now and has been
> experiencing colder than normal oil and cylinder temps. He has a new
> O360-A1A with a constant speed prop - for example, at normal cruise and
> 57deg F OAT he is getting 158 deg F oil temp and 295 deg F CHT which are
> both lower than he desires. Has anyone else experienced this problem and
> how did you get the temperatures up? >>
>
> This is a common problem. First satisfy yourself that the gauge and senders
> are accurate. Then install an adjustable hinged flap that covers the entire
> rear of the oil cooler. Connect it to a push button locking control cable.
> Mine is just underneath the main instrument panel on a bracket between my
> throttle and prop controls.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
Gary's mention of the oil cooler flap caught my attention because I
installed the same thing on the rear of the firewall-mounted cooler on
my O-320 powered RV-6. The reason for having the flap on the rear of the
cooler is to prevent a failure mode of the flap that would result in
having all the air blocked to the cooler. If the cable breaks, the air
flow through the cooler merely blows the door open and the engine
receives maximum cooling.
It is an elegant solution to the problem of over cooling the O-320
except that it isn't very effective on my plane. The maximum temperature
rise I have seen with the flap closed is about ten degrees F; I expected
to see a greater delta than this. My hangar mate, Bob Butler, had the
same installation in his 160 hp RV-6A and he also saw little temp rise.
I will probably go with some sort of "valve" upstream of the cooler. Bob
has devised a sliding door over the intake of the scat tube feeding the
cooler that can be reached through the oil door on the top cowl. The
door isn't adjustable in flight but rarely would we experience extreme
temp changes in the ambient air on one flight. I am thinking of devising
a similar door with a cable to the cabin that is spring loaded to
prevent a failure of the cable closing the air intake.
No doubt many builders have devised even better solutions to the over
cooling that can occur with the O-320. I have talked to several pilots
who merely tape off a portion of the cooler.
By the way, here are photos of the flap installation on my plane:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/engine2.html
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 230 hrs)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Saber Manuf. Home Page |
For those who are buy or considering a Catto prop, he recommends prop
extensions from Saber. Here is their home page for those who are curious.
http://www.geocities.com/sabermfg/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Low oil temp/CHT |
I have low oil temp and high CHT. We built a swing door that seals off
almost all the outflow air to the Positec oil cooler and I still have oil
temps of 175 max with OAT of 30 F. Completely sealing off the outflow air
only raises the oil temp by 8 F, so I'm not sure it is worth the added work.
I've heard of others disconnecting the oil cooler in the winter.
I sure wish I knew how to get the CHTs down. The problem is mainly in the
climb where I can go from 250 F on the ground to 480 F before I get to 8000
feet. Maybe I'm expecting too much but what good is the 2500 fpm climb
(solo) if you can't maintain it? Cruise CHT peak is around 420 F at 75%
power and OAT 10F to 40F. Surprisingly OAT doesn't seem to make much
difference, at least in the winter. I have spread sheets filled with data
that seems to defy analysis, at least by me.
I can tell you what didn't work for me in lowering CHTs -- front baffles.
They raise the front CHTs but leave the rear ones unchanged. This was
measured with a VM1000 with probes calibrated at 40 F and 80 F (ambient).
Does your friend have probes on all 4 cylinders? I find that my hottest CHT
moves around at times (like hottest EGT) depending on power settings. Most
importantly, are the probes calibrated? Note also that some of the cheap
probes like Westach (low-end models) lack a reference junction which can
introduce a 50 F error depending on cabin temp.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 41 hours working on gear
leg/wheel fairings
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Dan & Patty Krueger <pndkrueg(at)gulfsurf.infi.net>
Date: Thursday, February 01, 2001 10:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: Low oil temp/CHT
>
>A friend has been flying his RV-6A for a year now and has been
>experiencing colder than normal oil and cylinder temps. He has a new
>O360-A1A with a constant speed prop - for example, at normal cruise and
>57deg F OAT he is getting 158 deg F oil temp and 295 deg F CHT which are
>both lower than he desires. Has anyone else experienced this problem and
>how did you get the temperatures up?
>
>Thank you for your help,
>
>Dan Krueger
>RV-6A - hooking up the wires
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | EZ-Trim Altitude Hold |
List: I was wondering if anyone has used a product called EZ-Trim Altitude
Hold marketed by the designer based in Florida?
The price seems decent even though I understand it is a simplistic
approach.
Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Low oil temp/CHT |
Dennis,
Which model carb are you using. There have been two different dash #s
supplied with 0-360s supplied by Van's, one has a main jet that is too
small.
I tried to get the dash # off my carb as it is the right one, but my
cowl is
buttoned up until sometime on sunday.
I'll post the model and number on sunday evening, sooner if I can.
Garry "6" finishing
Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
> I sure wish I knew how to get the CHTs down. The problem is mainly in the
> climb where I can go from 250 F on the ground to 480 F before I get to 8000
> feet. Maybe I'm expecting too much but what good is the 2500 fpm climb
> (solo) if you can't maintain it? Cruise CHT peak is around 420 F at 75%
> power and OAT 10F to 40F. Surprisingly OAT doesn't seem to make much
> difference, at least in the winter. I have spread sheets filled with data
> that seems to defy analysis, at least by me.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | O-320 H2AD on Ebay |
For anyone interested, I came across this.
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=553033891
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage (wings ordered)
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop extensions |
nauga(at)brick.net wrote:
>
>
> Eric Newton wrote:
>
> > The 2 1/4" prop extension uses only one set of bolts.
> > They go through the crush plate, the prop, the extension
> > and into the crankshaft flange.
>
> Just received my 2 1/4 extension from Saber yesterday(*).
> It's got 12 holes and 6 flange lugs. 6 bolts hold the
> extension to the flange (recessed heads to miss the prop)
> and 6 bolts hold the prop to the extension. A 6-holer
> like you describe is available but certainly not the only
> option. I didn't like the idea of those loooong bolts
> either, especially with 3/8" lugs in the crank,
>
> (*) and it's a work of art.
>
> Dave 'lugged' Hyde
> nauga(at)brick.net
>
Dave there is nothing wrong with the six long bolts at all. If they are
properly torqued you would be pretty hard pressed to ever shear them.
The Sensenich metal prop I have on my RV-6 uses a two piece prop
extension set up where it can either be used for a short or long extension.
The bolts go all the way through the prop and extension and screw into the
lugs on the crank flange. This is a pretty common setup even for CS props
which are much heavier than the fixed pitch props many of us use.
Jerry
jsflyrv(at)teleport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Saber Manuf. Home Page |
Or any prop for that matter...Sam's extensions are beautiful. Well worth
the money, and a great guy to deal with.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2001 8:33 AM
Subject: RV-List: Saber Manuf. Home Page
>
> For those who are buy or considering a Catto prop, he recommends prop
> extensions from Saber. Here is their home page for those who are curious.
>
> http://www.geocities.com/sabermfg/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: O-320 engines |
02/02/2001 01:16:45 PM
I ran a add in Trade-A-Plane in the lycoming and cessna 172 section
offering cash for a H2AD near run-out. I got one on first rebuild with
1000SMOH at Mattituck with 3100TT. I paid 4200$ plus about 300$ for a uhaul
to truck it back. I flew with it in the 172 before we yanked it & I drove
it home
"Chuck Rabaut"
To:
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: Fw: RV-List: O-320
engines
ronics.com
02/01/2001 07:03 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
I've been looking and looking... Anyone see one of those $4-$5 K H2AD's
please let me know A.S.A.P.
Thanks,
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: O-320 engines
> Very politely....B.S. One of the best aviation bargains in Lycommings is
> the H2AD. For 4 or 5000 dollars you can strap one on the RV and go
flying.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Low oil temp/CHT |
I also am dealing with oil temp issues.
My S/W cooler is mounted on the firewall behind #3. A 4" SCAT tube goes from the
baffles to an adapter on the cooler.
At first, even on 60-70 degree days my temps would climb above 220. Once I even
saw 240 with just "normal" cruise flying. I verified these temps by checking the
instrument by emersing the sender in boiling water. (about 195 degrees at 8000'
msl).
Since the cooler was a used one from a wrecked Cessna (it came with my engine),
I
decided to pull it off the RV-6A and clean and flush it as well as I could. A lot
of junk washed out, especially from the inside. (I know, I should have done that
before.) I then made an extra additional effort to make sure all the baffles and
shrouds into the cooler were sealed with RTV as best as they could be. It
worked. To well.
Now I rarely see 150 degree oil temps. On a two hour flight last weekend,
including 2 non-stop climbs to 15,000 it wouldn't even get to 140. 120 ish was
the average indicated in cruise. Much too cold. This spring, when I take it
down for annual, I plan to put in a sliding door at the intake on the baffle as
controlled from the cockpit. Similar to how my cabin heat door operates.
I fly in an area of temperature extremes. Below zero is common in the winter, and
nearing 100 is common in the summer just 30 miles away on the other side of those
big rock piles. It wouldn't be uncommon to depart Granby some morning at below
30 degrees OAT and then depart Denver that same afternoon at over 90 degrees, and
of course with mandatory climbs to 14,000+ ft.
Having an inflight controllable engine temperature mechanism seems the only way
to go.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Holes Size |
In a message dated 2/1/01 8:21:03 PM Pacific Standard Time, ENewton57(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< On the windscreen, the plexiglass is screwed directly to the rollbar
again with the screw heads going directly into the plexiglass. The plans
don't call for any aluminum strip or washers. What have others done? >>
I did not like the idea of the pop rivets directly into the plexi either but
the issue went away when I found that I had to shim the canopy front bar as
much as 1/4 in. in several places to get the plexi to line up with the
windshield frame. Could not use pops then so I'm going with flathead SS # 6
screws and Rivnuts with a countersunk washer under the head of the screws.
I've seen this done successfully on several -6s and -6As.
I used microballon/epoxy to fill in the gaps between the shims and hide the
heads of the Rivnuts (not my idea either, copied it from several other
builders).
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tail light installation question |
Jim--
I made up a medium-thick aluminum doubler to fit on the outside of the
hole but inside the tail light mounting bracket and epoxied it in place.
On the inside of the rudder hole, I built up a ledge of T-88 structural
epoxy slurry with microballoons and when it sets, it's strong enough to
be threaded or to hold self-tapping screws.
Boyd Braem
N600SS
>
>
> My fellow listers:
>
> I have the combination white light & strobe from Van's, which I plan to
> install on my rudder bottom (the one designed for a tail light). The aft
> flat end on the rudder bottom looks like it was tailor made for the light
> assembly, but there isn't a whole lot of room inside the fiberglass bottom
> for attaching the unit. I'm curious as to what methods have been used to
> attach that light to the fairing so it is secure, but easy to service.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Jim Bower
> St. Louis, MO
> RV-6A N143DJ
> Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Low oil temp/CHT |
Sam, the oil cooler plenum you designed is similar to the one that Vans
sells. I just published the oil cooler setup that my friend Paul engineered
for his 0-320 Rv-6. It's a rather unique setup and was accomplished with any
fancy machine tools. I've also published the plans that he professionally
drew up.
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Gooping up the tanks
Plainfield, IL (LOT)
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
> Gary's mention of the oil cooler flap caught my attention because I
> installed the same thing on the rear of the firewall-mounted cooler on
> my O-320 powered RV-6. The reason for having the flap on the rear of the
> cooler is to prevent a failure mode of the flap that would result in
> having all the air blocked to the cooler. If the cable breaks, the air
> flow through the cooler merely blows the door open and the engine
> receives maximum cooling.
>
> It is an elegant solution to the problem of over cooling the O-320
> except that it isn't very effective on my plane. The maximum temperature
> rise I have seen with the flap closed is about ten degrees F; I expected
> to see a greater delta than this. My hangar mate, Bob Butler, had the
> same installation in his 160 hp RV-6A and he also saw little temp rise.
>
> I will probably go with some sort of "valve" upstream of the cooler. Bob
> has devised a sliding door over the intake of the scat tube feeding the
> cooler that can be reached through the oil door on the top cowl. The
> door isn't adjustable in flight but rarely would we experience extreme
> temp changes in the ambient air on one flight. I am thinking of devising
> a similar door with a cable to the cabin that is spring loaded to
> prevent a failure of the cable closing the air intake.
>
> No doubt many builders have devised even better solutions to the over
> cooling that can occur with the O-320. I have talked to several pilots
> who merely tape off a portion of the cooler.
>
> By the way, here are photos of the flap installation on my plane:
>
> http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/engine2.html
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 230 hrs)
> "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
Bruce--
To anyone using wing jacks, whether they are worried about slippage or
not, I strongly recommend some axle stands. That way, you can jack the
wing, remove the tire, put on the axle stand, remove the wing jack and
have no more worries about the jack slipping and damaging your wing from
a careless bump or wind gust.
Boyd Braem
N600SS
>
>
> I've been thinking about buying a set of their jacks but they use a non-standard
> safety locking system. Whats your experience been and have you ever had any
> slip.
>
> Bruce
>
> Gary Zilik wrote:
>
> >
> > Randall, I can't help on the measurements but I bought jacks from
> > http://www.aircraftjacks.com for our builders group. Model number is 421 and
> > they are 20 or so inches tall and jack to twice that height. Great jacks and
> > they have lifted 6A's and and an 8 that I know of. Call them, they have
> > operators standing by 24/7. blew me away.
> >
> > Gary Zilik
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop Extentions |
02/02/2001 02:25:39 PM
Re-posted for future e-searching
"Paul Besing"
To:
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: Re: RV-List: Saber
Manuf. Home Page
ronics.com
02/02/2001 01:14 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
Or any prop for that matter...Sam's extensions are beautiful. Well worth
the money, and a great guy to deal with.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2001 8:33 AM
Subject: RV-List: Saber Manuf. Home Page
>
> For those who are buy or considering a Catto prop, he recommends prop
> extensions from Saber. Here is their home page for those who are
curious.
>
> http://www.geocities.com/sabermfg/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
Real good advice but my gear tucks into the wing so that option is not available
to
me, especially when I want to swing the gear.
Bruce
Glasair III
bcbraem(at)home.com wrote:
>
> Bruce--
>
> To anyone using wing jacks, whether they are worried about slippage or
> not, I strongly recommend some axle stands. That way, you can jack the
> wing, remove the tire, put on the axle stand, remove the wing jack and
> have no more worries about the jack slipping and damaging your wing from
> a careless bump or wind gust.
>
> Boyd Braem
> N600SS
> >
> >
> > I've been thinking about buying a set of their jacks but they use a non-standard
> > safety locking system. Whats your experience been and have you ever had any
> > slip.
> >
> > Bruce
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ClecoToo(at)AOL.COM |
I stick built a pole barn type using chicken coop trusses which have a raised
center section. I have 14 foot walls I think and is 48 by 42 I think.
Including the slab it was 12000 dollars but I still only have a temporary
door. I like the idea of having a small door opening to discourage the "Spam"
from entering and reduces cost though my door will probably accomadate a
large twin. Cleco
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Canopy Holes Size |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Canopy Holes Size
Thread-Index: AcCNUzadCOOMsmJNSUKs+t4f9irRNgAACRKw
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
I used pop rivets entirely to rivet the canopy on. Not a single crack
anywhere. I used the following methods: Keep the canopy warm while
working on it. I kept the garage over 80 degrees. Make oversize holes
for the pop rivets, and countersink much more deeply than normal. When
using the pop-riveter, with the deep countersink the head of the tool
will prevent the pop rivet from putting any pressure on the plexi while
pulling. It also allows the canopy to float somewhat, thus preventing
stress areas. Worked great for me.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
> I did not like the idea of the pop rivets directly into the
> plexi either but
> the issue went away when I found that I had to shim the
> canopy front bar as
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: February Calendar Quiz |
There is also a spare prop blade above the vertical stab.
-Rob Hickman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-320 engines...H2AD |
5.0.3 (Intl)|21 March 2000) at 02/02/2001 02:59:01 PM
Also very politely....in the case of the H2AD, I think it depends on one's
definition of a "bargain". All of the experienced A&P's I worked with when
I was turning wrenches said to stay away from the H2AD. Does it work?
Sure, as you say there are thousands of 172's out there flying them. Do
they have a reputation for problems? Yes they do, or they wouldn't be a
"bargain". There's a reason why they are cheaper than other O-320's. Real
bargains are rare in aircraft engines....you tend to get what you pay for
unless you get the engine from someone too ignorant to know the value of
what they are selling. No flame intended, just another perspective. If you
are moving up from a VW or 2-stroke, the H2AD is an outstanding engine.
But as Lycomings go, I'd recommend spending a bit more up front for a
different model with a better track record and save the dollars and
headaches down the road. IMHO.
As the saying goes, they named it the "-AD" for a reason. : )
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich FM72-87"
Subject: Re: RV-List: O-320 engines
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
02/01/2001 10:23:53 AM
Very politely....B.S. One of the best aviation bargains in Lycommings is
the H2AD. For 4 or 5000 dollars you can strap one on the RV and go flying.
Cam spalding and single mag drive are issues that can be delt with. There
are thousands of 172's out there with this engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Attaching VOR Antennas to Belly |
Ross,
I cut the two "stand-offs" off of the antenna mount and mounted the now ~3/8" high
puck on the belly with the bnc connector entirely inside the fuselage. A
little sealant and your good to go. The alternative is to mount the unmodified
mounting base inside the fuselage and cut an oblong hole on each side of the
fuselage to allow the antenna rods to sitck out.
Best of luck,
-Don
RV8 - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-320 engines...H2AD |
Wives tales are indeed hard to kill, especially when they're being
propagated by the almighty A&P......many of whom know less about these
engines than half the people on this list.
Bill
-4 wings
>
>
> Also very politely....in the case of the H2AD, I think it depends on one's
> definition of a "bargain". All of the experienced A&P's I worked with
when
> I was turning wrenches said to stay away from the H2AD. Does it work?
> Sure, as you say there are thousands of 172's out there flying them. Do
> they have a reputation for problems? Yes they do, or they wouldn't be a
> "bargain". There's a reason why they are cheaper than other O-320's.
Real
> bargains are rare in aircraft engines....you tend to get what you pay for
> unless you get the engine from someone too ignorant to know the value of
> what they are selling. No flame intended, just another perspective. If
you
> are moving up from a VW or 2-stroke, the H2AD is an outstanding engine.
> But as Lycomings go, I'd recommend spending a bit more up front for a
> different model with a better track record and save the dollars and
> headaches down the road. IMHO.
>
> As the saying goes, they named it the "-AD" for a reason. : )
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich FM72-87"
>
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: O-320 engines
> From: pcondon(at)csc.com
> 02/01/2001 10:23:53 AM
>
>
> Very politely....B.S. One of the best aviation bargains in Lycommings is
> the H2AD. For 4 or 5000 dollars you can strap one on the RV and go flying.
> Cam spalding and single mag drive are issues that can be delt with. There
> are thousands of 172's out there with this engine.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Attaching VOR Antennas to Belly |
Another option is to use copper foil tape or wire attached to the inside
bottom of the cowl, making a simple "V" dipole antenna, fed at the center of
the "V" at the firewall. Depending on what you are running for an ignition
system there may or may not be a problem with picking up ignition noise.
For a dollar or two worth of material I'd try it. You can do the same thing
with your marker beacon antenna, here use a 1/4 wavelength piece of foil or
wire cut for 75 MHZ, feeding out of a firewall mounted BNC (the firewall
provides the other 1/4 wavelength to simulate the 1/2 wavelength horizontal
dipole). Run the foil along one of the upper sides of the bottom cowl,
above the VOR antenna.
I plan on an GPS only IFR panel.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (systems)
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rv8don(at)AOL.COM
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2001 4:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Attaching VOR Antennas to Belly
Ross,
I cut the two "stand-offs" off of the antenna mount and mounted the now
~3/8" high puck on the belly with the bnc connector entirely inside the
fuselage. A little sealant and your good to go. The alternative is to
mount the unmodified mounting base inside the fuselage and cut an oblong
hole on each side of the fuselage to allow the antenna rods to sitck out.
Best of luck,
-Don
RV8 - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Engine Primer Fittings...again |
So.....I have read the archives and have all sorts of great info on primer
systems. BUT.....I have a question....
Why use the AN800- CODE UNION and AN4022 PRIMER FITTING instead of just a
regular flared fitting with a .06" hole in a restrictor?
If I understand correctly, folks are soldering the cone in place on one end
of the copper line and flaring the other end. This tells me that there
isn't a problem with flaring strength wise.
(BTW...Wicks price for an AN4022 is $5.70 and AC$ is $10.00.)
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-320 engines...H2AD |
--- Bill Shook wrote:
>
>
> Wives tales are indeed hard to kill, especially when they're being
> propagated by the almighty A&P......many of whom know less about
> these engines than half the people on this list.
>
> Bill
> -4 wings
>
--------- snip --------
> > Also very politely....in the case of the H2AD, I think it depends
> on one's
> > definition of a "bargain". All of the experienced A&P's I worked
> with
> when
> > I was turning wrenches said to stay away from the H2AD. Does it
> work?
> > Sure, as you say there are thousands of 172's out there flying
> them. Do
> > they have a reputation for problems? Yes they do, or they wouldn't
> be a
> > "bargain". There's a reason why they are cheaper than other
> O-320's.
> Real
> > bargains are rare in aircraft engines....you tend to get what you
> pay for
> > unless you get the engine from someone too ignorant to know the
> value of
> > what they are selling. No flame intended, just another perspective.
> If
> you
> > are moving up from a VW or 2-stroke, the H2AD is an outstanding
> engine.
> > But as Lycomings go, I'd recommend spending a bit more up front for
> a
> > different model with a better track record and save the dollars and
> > headaches down the road. IMHO.
> >
> > As the saying goes, they named it the "-AD" for a reason. : )
> >
> > --Mark Navratil
> > Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> > RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich FM72-87"
------ snip -------
> >
> > Very politely....B.S. One of the best aviation bargains in
> Lycommings is
> > the H2AD. For 4 or 5000 dollars you can strap one on the RV and go
> flying.
> > Cam spalding and single mag drive are issues that can be delt with.
> There
> > are thousands of 172's out there with this engine.
As an A&P that has built and is still flying an RV, I agree with most
of this. Most A&Ps that deal with General Aviation know a LOT MORE
than the people on this list. If you know what you are doing, the H2AD
engine can give good service. If you know and can live with the
limitations, it could be a good deal. For my money, I would only use
the H2AD as a last resort. I do not like the idea of modifying the
cowl to make the engine fit. I built a metal airplane because I do not
like doing fiberglass. The H2AD engine does not fit on an RV without
doing modifications to the RV. If you want to fly, follow Van's
recommendations on engines.
EAA Tech Counselor
FAA Licensed A & P
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
762.1 Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Hole Sizes ? |
Eric,
I used a strip of aluminum on the front of the slider. I didn't like the idea of
the plexi sliding under the windshield fairing unprotected. I'm glad I did
because the aluminum strip has taken some abuse. I think it was .032.
Dave
ENewton57(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Hello all (or as we say in the south "Hi Y'all")
> I have read the archives, the 18 years of RVator and the manual and watched
> George Orndorff's finish kit tapes. I am now a little confussed on the
> proper size for the holes in the Plexiglass.
> It appears that during changes in temperature, the plexiglass shrinks and
> expands at a different rate than the steel and aluminum it is screwed or
> riveted to. Therefore, some of the advise is to drill the holes in the
> plexiglass oversize to account for this difference. That makes sense to me
> and I can see it wherever the plexiglass is sandwiched between an aluminum
> strip and steel or between two strips of aluminum. However, on the RV6/6A
> Slider, there are two areas that don't call for any strip of aluminum. The
> forward cross bar of the slider is supposed to be drilled 1/8" and the
> plexiglass is countersunk. An aluminum rivet pop rivet is then put in with
> the head of the rivet directly in the plexiglass and it is riveted the steal
> bar. On the windscreen, the plexiglass is screwed directly to the rollbar
> again with the screw heads going directly into the plexiglass. The plans
> don't call for any aluminum strip or washers.
> What have others done?
> Thanks,
>
> Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
> RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Fuselage)
> http://www.ericsrv6a.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Bristol" <bbristol(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: O-320 H2AD owners view |
Subject: RV-List: Re: O-320 engines...H2AD
>
SNIP>>>, I think it depends on one's
>definition of a "bargain". All of the experienced A&P's I worked with when
I was turning wrenches said to stay away from the H2AD.
I hate to go deeply into this debate BUT,
I also researched the history and reliability of the 0320 H2AD engine prior
to purcghasing one. All of the "A & Ps" and Flight Schools I spoke to
assured me that this engine was as reliable as most Lycomings and did not
usually require more maintenance. It does require a bit of extra care such
as preheating when the temp approaches 32F, and the oil additive that is
standard in Shell 15W50 oil. That is the same oil I chose to use in most of
the aircraft I have owned.
>>>>> Sure, as you say there are thousands of 172's out there flying them.
Do they have a reputation for problems? Yes they do, or they wouldn't be a
"bargain".
So many aircraft have earned "bad reputations" from pilots who have
never flown them, and I feel this has carried over into the H2AD engine
saga. A lot of money was made by companys such as Pen Yan with their engine
conversions in C172 aircraft, yet Pen Yan was quick to offer me a rebuilt
H2AD for my RV6A. They assured me it would be a fine engine for this
aircraft??
IThere's a reason why they are cheaper than other O-320's. Real
>bargains are rare in aircraft engines....you tend to get what you pay for
>unless you get the engine from someone too ignorant to know the value of
>what they are selling. No flame intended, just another perspective. If you
>are moving up from a VW or 2-stroke, the H2AD is an outstanding engine.
Would you prefer a mid time 0320 with an unknown history?? And you are
way off track even to mention a VW or 2 stroke in comparison with any
Lycoming engine.
>But as Lycomings go, I'd recommend spending a bit more up front for a
>different model with a better track record and save the dollars and
>headaches down the road. IMHO.
I respect this opinion should you really be afraid of an H engine.
>>>>>>As the saying goes, they named it the "-AD" for a reason. : )
Please check with Lycoming to really see what the AD designators stand
for!
Also to respond to the latest post about Vans engine recommendations.... I
called Vans prior to buying my engine in 1996, and they assured me there was
no problem fitting it into an RV6A as long as I stated the engine type when
ordering the engine mount. No big deal. Yes the baffle kit had to be
modified and I put 2 bubbles on my cowling to allow for the fuel pump but it
was not a big deal. The rest of the cowl was standard. This engine uses
standard 0320 exhaust.
Add an electronic ignition if you are concerned about the "Dual" mag. I
will in the near future but I would do the same on a standard 0320.
Bob Bristol, C-GCTZ 217 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: O-320 H2AD owners view |
Flight school, northern California, 7 Cessna 172's, 3 with H2AD, 3 without. 100
+ hours a month on each of them. We do a mandatory 50
plus the required 100, annual etc. We have not experienced any significant
maintenance problems with the H2AD over the others.
Your mileage may vary. The other 172 has an aftermarket 180 hp conversion.
Tom McIntyre
RV3 978TM
0320 E2 something
Robert Bristol wrote:
>
> Subject: RV-List: Re: O-320 engines...H2AD
>
>
> >
> SNIP>>>, I think it depends on one's
> >definition of a "bargain". All of the experienced A&P's I worked with when
> I was turning wrenches said to stay away from the H2AD.
>
> I hate to go deeply into this debate BUT,
> I also researched the history and reliability of the 0320 H2AD engine prior
> to purcghasing one. All of the "A & Ps" and Flight Schools I spoke to
> assured me that this engine was as reliable as most Lycomings and did not
> usually require more maintenance. It does require a bit of extra care such
> as preheating when the temp approaches 32F, and the oil additive that is
> standard in Shell 15W50 oil. That is the same oil I chose to use in most of
> the aircraft I have owned.
>
> >>>>> Sure, as you say there are thousands of 172's out there flying them.
> Do they have a reputation for problems? Yes they do, or they wouldn't be a
> "bargain".
>
> So many aircraft have earned "bad reputations" from pilots who have
> never flown them, and I feel this has carried over into the H2AD engine
> saga. A lot of money was made by companys such as Pen Yan with their engine
> conversions in C172 aircraft, yet Pen Yan was quick to offer me a rebuilt
> H2AD for my RV6A. They assured me it would be a fine engine for this
> aircraft??
>
> IThere's a reason why they are cheaper than other O-320's. Real
> >bargains are rare in aircraft engines....you tend to get what you pay for
> >unless you get the engine from someone too ignorant to know the value of
> >what they are selling. No flame intended, just another perspective. If you
> >are moving up from a VW or 2-stroke, the H2AD is an outstanding engine.
>
> Would you prefer a mid time 0320 with an unknown history?? And you are
> way off track even to mention a VW or 2 stroke in comparison with any
> Lycoming engine.
>
> >But as Lycomings go, I'd recommend spending a bit more up front for a
> >different model with a better track record and save the dollars and
> >headaches down the road. IMHO.
>
> I respect this opinion should you really be afraid of an H engine.
>
> >>>>>>As the saying goes, they named it the "-AD" for a reason. : )
>
> Please check with Lycoming to really see what the AD designators stand
> for!
>
> Also to respond to the latest post about Vans engine recommendations.... I
> called Vans prior to buying my engine in 1996, and they assured me there was
> no problem fitting it into an RV6A as long as I stated the engine type when
> ordering the engine mount. No big deal. Yes the baffle kit had to be
> modified and I put 2 bubbles on my cowling to allow for the fuel pump but it
> was not a big deal. The rest of the cowl was standard. This engine uses
> standard 0320 exhaust.
>
> Add an electronic ignition if you are concerned about the "Dual" mag. I
> will in the near future but I would do the same on a standard 0320.
>
> Bob Bristol, C-GCTZ 217 hours
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Low oil temp/CHT |
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> Gary's mention of the oil cooler flap caught my attention because I
> installed the same thing on the rear of the firewall-mounted cooler on
> my O-320 powered RV-6. The reason for having the flap on the rear of the
> cooler is to prevent a failure mode of the flap that would result in
> having all the air blocked to the cooler. If the cable breaks, the air
> flow through the cooler merely blows the door open and the engine
> receives maximum cooling.
>
> It is an elegant solution to the problem of over cooling the O-320
> except that it isn't very effective on my plane. The maximum temperature
> rise I have seen with the flap closed is about ten degrees F; I expected
> to see a greater delta than this. My hangar mate, Bob Butler, had the
> same installation in his 160 hp RV-6A and he also saw little temp rise.
>
I also have the door on the oil cooler and do not get over 5 degrees
in temp raise. The problem with a door on the oil cooler is that the oil does
not really start to go through the cooler until the engine reaches a certain
temp. This is usally around the 160-180 on the engines equipped with the
"verni-therm."(sp) The reason there is a small amount of temp rise is because
there is a small amount of oil passing through the cooler and as the oil
temp rises more and more oil passes through the oil cooler.
IMO it is not worth the time or extra weight and control to install an oil
cooler door. YMMV
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Riley <richard(at)riley.net> |
| Subject: | Re: O-320 H2AD owners view |
Caviat: I've never used or otherwise experienced an H2AD. So this is just
an observation.
My Lyc rep says that if all the AD's are taken care of, the reliability is
within the margin of error for all 320's. But there are a lot of AD's on
the H2AD. Some may increase the price at overhaul (like having to buy new
rods when they find yours are phosphate coated). Others may be virtually
free if done at overhaul. Total them up. If the increase in price is
offset by a cheaper core, fine. But be careful if you're buying one
mid-time without the AD's taken care of. Price them out, see when they
should be done, both legally and for your peace of mind. THEN look at the
purchase price, vrs that on another 320.
And if you don't like what you see, I still have a beautiful 0 time E2D for
sale :)
>
>
>Subject: RV-List: Re: O-320 engines...H2AD
>
>
>>
>SNIP>>>, I think it depends on one's
>>definition of a "bargain". All of the experienced A&P's I worked with when
>I was turning wrenches said to stay away from the H2AD.
>
> I hate to go deeply into this debate BUT,
>I also researched the history and reliability of the 0320 H2AD engine prior
>to purcghasing one. All of the "A & Ps" and Flight Schools I spoke to
>assured me that this engine was as reliable as most Lycomings and did not
>usually require more maintenance. It does require a bit of extra care such
>as preheating when the temp approaches 32F, and the oil additive that is
>standard in Shell 15W50 oil. That is the same oil I chose to use in most of
>the aircraft I have owned.
>
Richard Riley
Renaissance Composites
3025 Airport Ave
Santa Monica, CA 90405
310.391.1943
www.berkut.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Sheehan <ctsheehan(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-320 H2AD owners view |
I've had the pleasure of flying in Bob's (very nice) RV-6A (thanks for
the ride Bob), knowing it was powered by an H2AD. Was I concerned? Of
course not...
I suspect that just about everybody on this list has rented an H2AD
powered 172 (H2AD's were used from 1977-1980) and not given it a second
thought. In fact, what we didn't know didn't hurt us.
Seriously, a VERY reputable local engine rebuilder in the Toronto area
suggested that a good strategy (and I can't remember the hours exactly
but you'll get the drift) is to check the lifters every 100 hrs and
replace them every 500. (again I'm going from memory and I may not have
the hours right, but if someone really wants to know I will call and
verify). The idea is that if you catch the spalling early (and that
means ANY spalling) you can save the cam. Checking and/or replacing
lifters is supposedly relatively easy on the H2AD (and inexpensive since
we can do our own maintenance) since they're 'automotive' style and can
be removed from the top (i.e. the cases don't have to be split).
I've seen other sources that claim that the oil additive is MANDATORY,
but as long as it's used there shouldn't be a problem.
Bottom line for me is that the engine may have its drawbacks (cowl mods
etc.) but it's generally cheaper and lighter, and if I haven't found a
decent deal on a used "non H2AD" by the time I'm ready for an engine I
will consider one. What makes more sense: a carefully maintained H2AD
with no damage history, or a used E2D with a "no logs, had a minor prop
strike but the flange dials OK" story? The choice is up to the
individual. What' most important is that you're confident in your
noisemaker...
Re. the "dual" mag, several Lycomings use a "dual" mag. Including the
IO-360-A1B6D that was up front of the Cardinal RG that I used to rent.
The ultimate demise of that airplane wasn't a mag failure, it was an ATP
rated pilot who ran out of gas on final and wrote it off. Seriously,
once you put the hypothetical arguments aside (sometimes hard to do) the
evidence suggests that there are thousands of "dual" mag engines out
there that are perfectly safe with records as safe as engines with 2
separate mags. I challenge someone to bring some FACTS to this issue!
Thanks again to Bob for the ride (Terry too). We builders sometimes need
an occasional RV grin to keep us going.
Chris Sheehan
RV-6 Wings - deburring ad infinitem...
Robert Bristol wrote:
>
>
> Subject: RV-List: Re: O-320 engines...H2AD
>
>
> >
> SNIP>>>, I think it depends on one's
> >definition of a "bargain". All of the experienced A&P's I worked with when
> I was turning wrenches said to stay away from the H2AD.
>
> I hate to go deeply into this debate BUT,
> I also researched the history and reliability of the 0320 H2AD engine prior
> to purcghasing one. All of the "A & Ps" and Flight Schools I spoke to
> assured me that this engine was as reliable as most Lycomings and did not
> usually require more maintenance. It does require a bit of extra care such
> as preheating when the temp approaches 32F, and the oil additive that is
> standard in Shell 15W50 oil. That is the same oil I chose to use in most of
> the aircraft I have owned.
>
> >>>>> Sure, as you say there are thousands of 172's out there flying them.
> Do they have a reputation for problems? Yes they do, or they wouldn't be a
> "bargain".
>
> So many aircraft have earned "bad reputations" from pilots who have
> never flown them, and I feel this has carried over into the H2AD engine
> saga. A lot of money was made by companys such as Pen Yan with their engine
> conversions in C172 aircraft, yet Pen Yan was quick to offer me a rebuilt
> H2AD for my RV6A. They assured me it would be a fine engine for this
> aircraft??
>
> IThere's a reason why they are cheaper than other O-320's. Real
> >bargains are rare in aircraft engines....you tend to get what you pay for
> >unless you get the engine from someone too ignorant to know the value of
> >what they are selling. No flame intended, just another perspective. If you
> >are moving up from a VW or 2-stroke, the H2AD is an outstanding engine.
>
> Would you prefer a mid time 0320 with an unknown history?? And you are
> way off track even to mention a VW or 2 stroke in comparison with any
> Lycoming engine.
>
> >But as Lycomings go, I'd recommend spending a bit more up front for a
> >different model with a better track record and save the dollars and
> >headaches down the road. IMHO.
>
> I respect this opinion should you really be afraid of an H engine.
>
> >>>>>>As the saying goes, they named it the "-AD" for a reason. : )
>
> Please check with Lycoming to really see what the AD designators stand
> for!
>
> Also to respond to the latest post about Vans engine recommendations.... I
> called Vans prior to buying my engine in 1996, and they assured me there was
> no problem fitting it into an RV6A as long as I stated the engine type when
> ordering the engine mount. No big deal. Yes the baffle kit had to be
> modified and I put 2 bubbles on my cowling to allow for the fuel pump but it
> was not a big deal. The rest of the cowl was standard. This engine uses
> standard 0320 exhaust.
>
> Add an electronic ignition if you are concerned about the "Dual" mag. I
> will in the near future but I would do the same on a standard 0320.
>
> Bob Bristol, C-GCTZ 217 hours
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Attaching VOR Antennas to Belly |
Hi All,
The Sportcraft wingtip NAV Antenna is as good as it gets. No drag &
Excellent reception.
The Sportcraft Marker Beacon Antenna kit can be installed in the same wingtip
as the NAV/VOR antenna.
Please contact me off the list at LessDragProd(at)aol.com
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
Less Drag Products, Inc. - A Sportcraft Antenna Distributor
(I REALLY don't like external antenna's. on my plane, or yours) :-)
In a message dated 02/01/2001 2:33:19 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com writes:
> I have a Comant 215, VOR/Glideslope/LOC antenna that I want to mount on the
> belly of my 6A near the tail. The whiskers will be facing aft mostly
> underneath the horizontal stabilizer. The two whiskers are attached to a
> rather odd looking base. It is a 3 inch circular piece of "plastic" with
> cut outs on one of the flat surfaces where the coax connector and bolt holes
> are located. If it is mounted directly to the belly, the end of the coax
> would be out in the weather. It looks like I have (at least) two choices.
> The first would be to mount it directly to the belly (with stiffeners) and
> fabricate a fairing around the "hockey puck" that would protect the coax and
> reduce drag. The second would be to recess the "puck" inside the fuselage
> and fabricate some brackets inside to secure it.
>
> Any suggestions??
>
> Ross
> RV6-A
> 9PT
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | warren gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
| Subject: | Gretz Aero website alive and well |
Greetings Listers,
I just saw the post by Jack Tector saying he was having trouble in
accesing my Gretz Aero Website. I tried it just now and it is working
great. There may have been an address error in the attempt. The correct
address is http://www.gretzaero.com
I did send a Jack a personal e-mail message saying I had checked out the
site just now.
Please brouse my website and see my aircraft products.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Primer Fittings...again |
In a message dated 2/2/01 2:49:26 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com writes:
<< Why use the AN800- CODE UNION and AN4022 PRIMER FITTING instead of just a
regular flared fitting with a .06" hole in a restrictor? >>
The CONE, Union (Wicks has always misspelled this in their catalog) type
primer fitting that you mention produces a finer atomized blast of fuel into
the intake manifold (and then thru the intake valve to the cylinder) than
would be possible with a much larger (.060") orifice. It has a damn tiny
hole (I haven't measured it but it is way smaller than you could easily drill
by hand).
Supposedly this prevents getting a great slug of liquid fuel into the
cylinder that washes off much of the oil film during startup.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Light Dimmer Questions |
> Can you use the same dimmer ( Electric Bob's dimmer) for incandescent,
UMA,
> and LCD backlighting ( VM1000)? What are the disadvantages associated
with
> using only one dimmer?
In my set-up I have one Nuckolls dimmer connected to incandescents and LED
lights. You can purchase them either for incandescent or LED dimming curve.
Mine was incandescant and wouldn't dim the LEDs at all. Someone on the list
suggested a Zener Diode -- I experimented and ended up using a 5V zener on
the LEDs -- worked great. More details at
http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/cabinlts.html
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Svajda" <dsvajda(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | If not now, when? |
A little help on when to start planning for electical wiring. I'm
getting ready to start matching wing ribs to spars and I'm a little
concerned about wiring. When do I need to worry about clamps,
conduit,...etc? Heated pitot--easier now or later ? Landing lights...
Since I didn't put any fiberglass on the empennage yet it won't be too
difficult to wire a white light to the tail, but I'd like to know how
builders who have gone before me have wired the wings.
Dave Svajda
Wing spars held together by plumb bobs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DDFLAMINI(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re:New e-mail address |
Please change my e-mail address. It is flamini2(at)home.com Thanks, Dennis
Flamini, Frankfort, Illinois 60423
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Low oil temp/CHT |
In a message dated 2/2/01 9:13:48 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jsflyrv(at)teleport.com writes:
>
> I also have the door on the oil cooler and do not get over 5 degrees
> in temp raise. The problem with a door on the oil cooler is that the oil
> does
> not really start to go through the cooler until the engine reaches a
> certain
> temp. This is usally around the 160-180 on the engines equipped with the
> "verni-therm."(sp) The reason there is a small amount of temp rise is
> because
> there is a small amount of oil passing through the cooler and as the oil
> temp rises more and more oil passes through the oil cooler.
> IMO it is not worth the time or extra weight and control to install an oil
> cooler door. YMMV
>
Jerry,
This is the question that has been in the back of my mind all along. So since
Shell recommends temps above 180 degrees, do we need to insulate the sump or
something during the winter. With the engine intake air flowing up thru the
oil pan, I would think that might be a place to start.
Bernie Kerr, 6A SE Fla ( and my oil temp is only running 160 degrees!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Norman, M.D." <jnorman(at)yourdoctor.com> |
| Subject: | Gretz Pitot Installation |
Listers,
I've already installed the "standard" pitot, but want to upgrade to a heated
Gretz unit.
My wing skins have been long done...can I upgrade with this unit, or is it
too late? Will I have to ruin my wing skins to get this thing in place? How
do I get it to hook up to the line which is already in place?
thanks,
Jim
RV-6A, FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: If not now, when? |
--- David Svajda wrote:
>
> A little help on when to start planning for electical wiring. I'm
> getting ready to start matching wing ribs to spars and I'm a little
> concerned about wiring. When do I need to worry about clamps,
> conduit,...etc? Heated pitot--easier now or later ?
If you intend to put PVC or aluminum conduit through the ribs, now is
the time to make up a jig and drill the holes on your drill press - so
every hole goes in the same spot - to keep the conduit straight from
tip to root.
Consider what I didn't initially: the rib flanges have to be
accommodated on both sides (IOW you'll be flipping some ribs over to
keep the hole positions the same).
>Landing lights...
Any time after the leading edge is riveted together but before riveting
to the main spar would be best.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Panel
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: O-320 engines |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Check with Bobby Osburn in mineral Wells , TX.
He gets a few.
940-682-4220
fax = 940-682-4264
Don't have any E-Mail
Don Jordan RV6A Arlington, Tx
*****************************************
writes:
>
> I've been looking and looking... Anyone see one of those $4-$5 K
> H2AD's
> please let me know A.S.A.P.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chuck
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: O-320 engines
>
>
> > Very politely....B.S. One of the best aviation bargains in
> Lycommings is
> > the H2AD. For 4 or 5000 dollars you can strap one on the RV and go
> flying.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Ducote" <mikejd1(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 fuselage jig available |
I have just removed my fuselage from the jig. It is available for the
taking. I am located in the New Orleans, LA area.
Mike Ducote
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Low oil temp/CHT |
Rv660wm(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 2/2/01 9:13:48 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> jsflyrv(at)teleport.com writes:
>
> >
> > I also have the door on the oil cooler and do not get over 5 degrees
> > in temp raise. The problem with a door on the oil cooler is that the oil
> > does
> > not really start to go through the cooler until the engine reaches a
> > certain
> > temp. This is usally around the 160-180 on the engines equipped with the
> > "verni-therm."(sp) The reason there is a small amount of temp rise is
> > because
> > there is a small amount of oil passing through the cooler and as the oil
> > temp rises more and more oil passes through the oil cooler.
> > IMO it is not worth the time or extra weight and control to install an oil
> > cooler door. YMMV
> >
>
> Jerry,
> This is the question that has been in the back of my mind all along. So since
> Shell recommends temps above 180 degrees, do we need to insulate the sump or
> something during the winter. With the engine intake air flowing up thru the
> oil pan, I would think that might be a place to start.
>
> Bernie Kerr, 6A SE Fla ( and my oil temp is only running 160 degrees!)
>
Bernie
I know that it is recommended that oil temp be at least 180 degrees
but I have just learned to live with the low oil temps. It has been fine
for over 1000 hours. The problem with doing some kind of insulate arrangement
is that if you fly from an area of cool outside air temps to an area of hot
outside air temps it could start to run to hot. I fly here in Oregon where
air temps are moderately cool and oil temps run cool. If I fly from Oregon to
California where outside air temps are usually much warmer than Oregon
my oil temp goes up, I have seen it as high as 220 on a climb out of an
area like Bakersfield, CA.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WPAerial(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Tail light installation question |
I woundered about this too. Went up to Van's with it, they said just drill a
hole to slip light though ,than cut one end off a platenut so it will have
the room in behind, and it will be strong enough. So that's what I did.
Jerry Wilken
Albany,OR>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: O-320 H2AD owners view |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Bob,
Ok, I agree....the -H2AD should not be compared to a VW or
2-stroke....but if it was, I would call it OUTSTANDING by comparison. My
point was different people have different perspectives of what is a good
deal, what is reliable, a bargain, etc.....some if it is shaped by your
personal comfort level and experience with other aircraft or powerplants
be they Lycoming or "lesser" engines.
And the "AD" thing was meant as joke. Yes I realize that Lycoming didn't
really call it this because they expected it to be a troublesome
powerplant with lots of Airworthiness Directives against it, that's just
how it turned out. So some A&P's have the saying.... No offense meant.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich FM72-87"
_______
From: "Robert Bristol" <bbristol(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: O-320 H2AD owners view
Subject: RV-List: Re: O-320 engines...H2AD
>No flame intended, just another perspective. If you
>are moving up from a VW or 2-stroke, the H2AD is an outstanding engine.
Would you prefer a mid time 0320 with an unknown history?? And you
are
way off track even to mention a VW or 2 stroke in comparison with any
Lycoming engine.
>>>>>>As the saying goes, they named it the "-AD" for a reason. : )
Please check with Lycoming to really see what the AD designators
stand
for!
Bob Bristol, C-GCTZ 217 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: O-320 engines...H2AD |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Bill,
I was not trying to propogate wives tales.....it's true that often a few
problems can result in many unsubstantiated rumors and opinions and the
-H2AD has probly been victim of some of this to some extent. I
personally only worked as an A&P for a little over a year and don't have
first-hand experience with this engine (so I'd be one of those guys who
"know less about these engines than half the people on this list"). But
two of the guys I worked for had over 20 years experience running their
own shop in TX, and they've seen pretty much everything come through
their shop and have done a lot of overhauls. When I was looking at
engines for my -8A I talked to them again and they both singled out the
-H2AD as one to stay away from. Also Lucky Louque at Dallas Air Salvage
who has many year of experience and sees a lot of wrecks holds this
opinion. He'll be happy to sell you one if you want it but he didn't
recommend it to me.
Bottom line is I don't think the engine's reputation is entirely wives
tales being propogated by A&P's who have less experience than the listers
here. As my original post stated, they are cheaper for a reason. I
wouldn't worry so much about catastrophic failure as the extra headaches
of more time and $$ that many of these engines need as compared to other
models. One reason I'm an engineer now instead of an A&P is that I don't
really enjoy doing a lot of engine maintenance. So anything I can do up
front to avoid extra work later with my airplane is worth it to me. If
you are really tight on cash now and want to go the -H2AD route, just
make sure you know what you are getting. If you found one with all the
AD's complied with, that's a good place to start at least.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich FM72-87"
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: O-320 engines...H2AD
Wives tales are indeed hard to kill, especially when they're being
propagated by the almighty A&P......many of whom know less about these
engines than half the people on this list.
Bill
-4 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: O-320 engines...H2AD |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Bill,
I'm not saying that the H2AD has more AD's that any other Lycoming, as I
haven't personally counted. I know it has a number of AD's as a result
of its problems. As another lister pointed out, if you get an engine
that has all the AD's complied with you are a step ahead (if you don't,
some if not all of the money you saved by getting an -H2AD may be spent
getting the AD's complied with). However be aware that some AD's are not
one-time only, they are recurring at intervals of a certain number of
hours or calendar time period. In the long run these can be the bigger
issue although they may be very simple and easy to do.
Perhaps another lister who has overhauled and is operating an -H2AD can
put some of the debate to rest by posting a list of the AD's for this
engine.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich FM72-87"
From: Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: O-320 engines...H2AD
So now are we saying the H2AD has more AD's that any other lyc?
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2001 1:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: O-320 engines...H2AD
As the saying goes, they named it the "-AD" for a reason. : )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mell" <kitplane(at)tradezone.com> |
, ,
| Subject: | Builders Neat Web Site |
Hello!
If any of you guys need/want a web site for your kitplane project or
airplane you can create one easily here and get listed with other
homebuilders:
http://www.kitplanesite.com/cgi-bin/creator/creator.cgi
It's pretty cool... check it out! :)
Mell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | warren gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
| Subject: | Gretz Pitot Installation] |
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 13:39:33 -0700
From: warren gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com>
Subject: Re: FW: RV-List: Gretz Pitot Installation
Hello Listers,
I have sold several pitot tube mounting brackets and heated pitot tubes to
builders and flyers that have the wing all skinned. They have mounted my
mounting kit and pitot tube in the last bay outboard on the wing. They have
removed the wing tip and installed the mounting bracket by working through the
lighting holes in the spar web. This is rather easy to do.
I have also had reports of good builders with completed wings working through
the inspection plate in the bay where the pitot tube was suggested to go by
Van's. I am sure it is much more difficult to do this, but it can be done. I am
also sure it will remove some hide from your arms in doing this.
I hope this helps.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
"James Norman, M.D." wrote:
> Warren,
> I saw your response on the Lister's page, so I thought I would email this
> directly to you... Can you help?
>
> Listers,
> I've already installed the "standard" pitot, but want to upgrade to a heated
> Gretz unit.
>
> My wing skins have been long done...can I upgrade with this unit, or is it
> too late? Will I have to ruin my wing skins to get this thing in place? How
> do I get it to hook up to the line which is already in place?
>
> thanks,
>
> Jim
> RV-6A, FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | warren gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
| Subject: | VIRUS WARNING ON THIS LIST!!!! |
DO NOT OPEN THE MESSAGE "SNOW WHITE AND THE SEVEN DWARFS" IT IS A
VIRUS!!! I KNOW, BECAUSE I HAD IT AND IT IS A VERY BAD VIURS.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 center section rivets |
Can someone confirm for me that everything along the rivet line on the 804
center section flanges, where it's attached to the floors, is dimpled? This
is where two skins and the center section join. I could dimple all three,
or dimple the out-most skin and counter sink the middle skin - probably
cutting into the center section a little.
It looks like the video has all three dimpled. But I'm hesitant because
dimpling the 804 reminds me of the wing main spar flange, where it's
countersunk for the tank screws. In that case, the instructions warn
'severe distortion will result if you dimple!' Yikes!
You'd think I could figure this out this late in the project. I question
everything...thus my speedy progress.
Thx,
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Composite props |
I was doing some research in the archives and read that composite props wont
hold up to the stresses associated with a direct drive lyc 4 banger. I was
considering a Catto prop because they cost about half of a metal prop. Any
one flying with a Catto and O-320?
Thanks, Kevin Shannon
-9A painting the panel today.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | engine mount RV-6A & RV-9A |
Does anybody know if the engine mounts are the same for these two models? If
I look at and get dimensions off of a 6A would I be safe to apply those in
answering my questions as far as engine clearances?
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage (wings ordered)
looking for engine
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Quadrants |
Hi Mike:
Need your mailing address.
Eustace
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Nellis <mnellis(at)emailusa.net>
Date: Friday, January 19, 2001 12:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Throttle Quadrants
>
>Eustace, why don't you post the picture on the RV-6 eGroup at this
location
>or, if you like, send to me and I'll post it there so everyone can have a
>look.
>http://www.egroups.com/group/RV-6and6A
>
>Mike Nellis
>** A good builder is not someone who doesn't make mistakes......they just
>cover them up better **
>
>Eustace Bowhay wrote:
>
>> Hi Ristic:
>>
>> Have a side mounted quadrant in my 6, give me your address and I will
mail
>> you a picture.
>>
>> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay B.C. Finishing slider on the 6A.
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Low oil temp/CHT |
Jerry,
Thanks for the advice. You would think the oil cooler might be able to
overcome a range of temps if it is currently blocked. I am going to feel the
cooler (firewall mounted) when I land and see if it is HOT or Cold. I am
considering making another set of Holy Cowl rings that match my current OD
rings and reduce the inlet to 4 in circular diamete and see if that has any
effect. It still has the hot to cold operation problem, but I have not seen
very high temps here in florida in the summer, but most folks don't realize
that our max ambient temps very seldom get higher than 92 degrees. Unlike
eastern washington , oregon , arizona, or calif.
Bernie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Light Dimmer Questions |
> My two cabin floods are the small eyeball ones from Van's installed in the
> slider canopy side decks so they are used full strength with a little red
> transparent nail polish over the ends.
After watching the list for several years I can't recall seeing anyone
mention a single flood-like light for panel illumination (pick your
color) mounted on the center of the tip-up rollbar, similar to the
"dome" light in the C-150 I fly. This would also seem like a useful
location for small spotlights for chart reading, etc. and would not
cause reflections off the canopy. Has anyone done this or is there a
good reason not to, assuming it could be done without weakening the
rollover structure?
Thanks
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips -6A 2nd wing nearly done, fuse box in garage :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Low oil temp/CHT |
Listers,
Yes, getting the oil temp up in the winter is a problem.
Of course the main reason for the specified oil temps is
to get water condensation out of the engine and oil.
A friends new Husky has water/oil residue dripping out of
the breather tube when it has run and shut down. His
indicated temp is 145 f. Of course this is not a good
situation. I recommended he block off the cooler and see if
it cures the problem.
Stewart RV4 A/P in Colo.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 center section rivets |
>
>Can someone confirm for me that everything along the rivet line on the 804
>center section flanges, where it's attached to the floors, is dimpled? This
>is where two skins and the center section join. I could dimple all three,
>or dimple the out-most skin and counter sink the middle skin - probably
>cutting into the center section a little.
>
>It looks like the video has all three dimpled. But I'm hesitant because
>dimpling the 804 reminds me of the wing main spar flange, where it's
>countersunk for the tank screws. In that case, the instructions warn
>'severe distortion will result if you dimple!' Yikes!
>
>You'd think I could figure this out this late in the project. I question
>everything...thus my speedy progress.
>
>Thx,
>
>Larry Bowen
I dimpled my 804 using a pneumatic squeezer and it seems to have
worked out well. No distortion.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: If not now, when? |
No need to worry for quite a while. I got the Quick Build kit which has all
but one panel on the wings done and most of the fuselage except the forward
upper deck done. Even then I had quite a bit to do before getting into the
wiring. My suggestion would be to build away for now but just keep in mind
what you want to install and where as you go. For example, if you want to
install conduit for your wings then it would be easier to install it just
before you rivet on the wing skins.
Mike robertson
RV-8A 20.5 hours
>From: "David Svajda" <dsvajda(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: If not now, when?
>Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 00:14:11 -0600
>
>
>A little help on when to start planning for electical wiring. I'm
>getting ready to start matching wing ribs to spars and I'm a little
>concerned about wiring. When do I need to worry about clamps,
>conduit,...etc? Heated pitot--easier now or later ? Landing lights...
>Since I didn't put any fiberglass on the empennage yet it won't be too
>difficult to wire a white light to the tail, but I'd like to know how
>builders who have gone before me have wired the wings.
>
>Dave Svajda
>Wing spars held together by plumb bobs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: If not now, when? |
No need to worry for quite a while. I got the Quick Build kit which has all
but one panel on the wings done and most of the fuselage except the forward
upper deck done. Even then I had quite a bit to do before getting into the
wiring. My suggestion would be to build away for now but just keep in mind
what you want to install and where as you go. For example, if you want to
install conduit for your wings then it would be easier to install it just
before you rivet on the wing skins.
Mike robertson
RV-8A 20.5 hours
>From: "David Svajda" <dsvajda(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: If not now, when?
>Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 00:14:11 -0600
>
>
>A little help on when to start planning for electical wiring. I'm
>getting ready to start matching wing ribs to spars and I'm a little
>concerned about wiring. When do I need to worry about clamps,
>conduit,...etc? Heated pitot--easier now or later ? Landing lights...
>Since I didn't put any fiberglass on the empennage yet it won't be too
>difficult to wire a white light to the tail, but I'd like to know how
>builders who have gone before me have wired the wings.
>
>Dave Svajda
>Wing spars held together by plumb bobs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bert murillo <bertrv6(at)yahoo.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Light Dimmer Questions |
| From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Mark:
I installed the 4 eyed red LED that vans sells on a bracket just aft of
the roll bar.
I am still messing with fiberglass & not fliying yet, but I think it
looks like it will work in the dark garage.
Now my conopy is out to the hanger so I didn't look at the reflextions.
All my instruments are internally lighted except for four, so I am
planning on using it for those.
W.C. & will Cretsinger installed two on the bow frame of the canopy. They
said thta those worked well.
but I don't know where they got them.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************************************
writes:
>
> > My two cabin floods are the small eyeball ones from Van's
> installed in the
> > slider canopy side decks so they are used full strength with a
> little red
> > transparent nail polish over the ends.
>
> After watching the list for several years I can't recall seeing
> anyone
> mention a single flood-like light for panel illumination (pick your
> color) mounted on the center of the tip-up rollbar, similar to the
> "dome" light in the C-150 I fly. This would also seem like a useful
> location for small spotlights for chart reading, etc. and would not
> cause reflections off the canopy. Has anyone done this or is there
> a
> good reason not to, assuming it could be done without weakening the
> rollover structure?
>
> Thanks
>
> From the PossumWorks in TN
> Mark Phillips -6A 2nd wing nearly done, fuse box in garage :)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Door Efficacy |
In a message dated 2/3/01 8:26:40 AM Pacific Standard Time,
jsflyrv(at)teleport.com writes:
<< I also have the door on the oil cooler and do not get over 5 degrees
> > in temp raise. The problem with a door on the oil cooler is that the oil
> > does
> > not really start to go through the cooler until the engine reaches a
> > certain
> > temp. This is usually around the 160-180 on the engines equipped with
the
> > "verni-therm."(sp) The reason there is a small amount of temp rise is
> > because
> > there is a small amount of oil passing through the cooler and as the oil
> > temp rises more and more oil passes through the oil cooler.
> > IMO it is not worth the time or extra weight and control to install an
oil
> > cooler door. >>
The statement above without a shred of evidence to back it up is the reason
people have difficulty trusting the info they get on the RV-list. I try to
provide real data, despite the numerous variables in our respective aircraft.
I went up today and got the following performance data on the oil cooler door
installation on my 6A. It is an O-360-A1A with C/S prop installation with
the Niagara P/N 20002A oil cooler that Van's used to sell and the standard
Van's cowling/baffles (no plenum). The cooler is mounted long axis
vertically on the left rear baffle and has a straight unobstructed flow of
air. This position is difficult to get on most RV installations as there is
only about a .350" distance to the cowling. Any lower would obstruct at
least a portion of this cooler. At any rate, I believe this installation to
be ideal. All data was collected after allowing 15 minutes stabilization
time, although the temperature actually reached within 2 degrees F of the
extremes in less than 5 minutes.
All gauges are accurate. Engine data was read off of the VM1000 engine
monitor.
Altitude 5500 ft MSL over the Central Valley
Air Temperature 60 deg F (good inversion in CA today)
MP 23.5 inHg
RPM 2350
Fuel 9.5 gph
TAS 185 mph
#3 CHT (door fully closed) 395 deg F, (door fully open) 380 deg F
#3 EGT 1365 deg F
Oil Temperature (door fully closed) 205 deg F, (door fully open) 175 deg F
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 center section rivets |
Van's take here was, when I put this question before them, to leave the
804's alone and do whatever you have to do to the skins, preferaable
dimpling all but the last one touching the -804.
Gert
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>
> >
> >Can someone confirm for me that everything along the rivet line on the 804
> >center section flanges, where it's attached to the floors, is dimpled? This
> >is where two skins and the center section join. I could dimple all three,
> >or dimple the out-most skin and counter sink the middle skin - probably
> >cutting into the center section a little.
> >
> >It looks like the video has all three dimpled. But I'm hesitant because
> >dimpling the 804 reminds me of the wing main spar flange, where it's
> >countersunk for the tank screws. In that case, the instructions warn
> >'severe distortion will result if you dimple!' Yikes!
> >
> >You'd think I could figure this out this late in the project. I question
> >everything...thus my speedy progress.
> >
> >Thx,
> >
> >Larry Bowen
>
> I dimpled my 804 using a pneumatic squeezer and it seems to have
> worked out well. No distortion.
>
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
In winter I had trouble getting the oil up to a reasonable temperature, and
wanted it to get to at least 190 to 195 per Lycoming's suggestion to keep
moisture out of the oil. (Lycoming O-320, fixed prop.)
I have my oil cooler mounted on the firewall, and it is fed by a 3-inch scat
tube from the back of the pressure chamber. I ended up putting a circular
vane, pivoted in the middle, at the inlet to the scat tube. The vane can be
rotated by means of a push-pull wire/knob arrangement so that the vane is
parallel to the air flow, or can be rotated to be fully closed, or to any
intermediate position.
The system is extremely simple and effective. I can adjust oil temperatures
by setting the vane at mid ranges to lower or slightly increase
temperatures.
In summer I leave it wide open, and in fairly cold weather fully closed much
of the time. Extended operation usually calls for intermediate settings.
All very basic but it works for me.
FWIW RV6A Flying Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Door Efficacy |
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM <Vanremog(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Saturday, February 03, 2001 10:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Cooler Door Efficacy
>
>In a message dated 2/3/01 8:26:40 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>jsflyrv(at)teleport.com writes:
>
><< I also have the door on the oil cooler and do not get over 5 degrees
> > > in temp raise. The problem with a door on the oil cooler is that the
oil
> > > does
> > > not really start to go through the cooler until the engine reaches a
> > > certain
> > > temp. This is usually around the 160-180 on the engines equipped with
>the
> > > "verni-therm."(sp) The reason there is a small amount of temp rise is
> > > because
> > > there is a small amount of oil passing through the cooler and as the
oil
> > > temp rises more and more oil passes through the oil cooler.
> > > IMO it is not worth the time or extra weight and control to install
an
>oil
> > > cooler door. >>
>
>The statement above without a shred of evidence to back it up is the reason
>people have difficulty trusting the info they get on the RV-list. I try to
>provide real data, despite the numerous variables in our respective
aircraft.
>
#####################
Seems a bit strongly worded, GV. My data , taken on 11 different
data-taking flights with OATs from 5 F to 33 F and power levels of 75% to
100%, show an average oil temp delta T of 8 F and a range of 7 F to 9 F. My
Positech cooler is mounted behind the left rear cylinder and I see NO
significant (<2 degee) change in the associated CHT when I shut the oil
door. I expected to see a change in CHT but in my set-up it just isn't
there.
John Schwaner, "Sky Ranch Engineering Manual", Copyright 1991, page 336,
says: "The Vernatherm valve modulates to maintain oil temperature at
approximately 170F." This statement seems to explain our problem.
I hope I have presented enough shreds that fellow listers, yourself
included, will indeed believe that in most RVs the oil door is a relatively
useless appendage. My helper spent many hours fabricating a beautiful door
with a very tight fit -- it is a piece of art. Unfortunately it doesn't
help to warm the oil significantly.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 41 hours and pages and pages of
data
Hampshire, IL C38
#######################
>I went up today and got the following performance data on the oil cooler
door
>installation on my 6A. It is an O-360-A1A with C/S prop installation with
>the Niagara P/N 20002A oil cooler that Van's used to sell and the standard
>Van's cowling/baffles (no plenum). The cooler is mounted long axis
>vertically on the left rear baffle and has a straight unobstructed flow of
>air. This position is difficult to get on most RV installations as there
is
>only about a .350" distance to the cowling. Any lower would obstruct at
>least a portion of this cooler. At any rate, I believe this installation
to
>be ideal. All data was collected after allowing 15 minutes stabilization
>time, although the temperature actually reached within 2 degrees F of the
>extremes in less than 5 minutes.
>
>All gauges are accurate. Engine data was read off of the VM1000 engine
>monitor.
>
>Altitude 5500 ft MSL over the Central Valley
>Air Temperature 60 deg F (good inversion in CA today)
>MP 23.5 inHg
>RPM 2350
>Fuel 9.5 gph
>TAS 185 mph
>#3 CHT (door fully closed) 395 deg F, (door fully open) 380 deg F
>#3 EGT 1365 deg F
>Oil Temperature (door fully closed) 205 deg F, (door fully open) 175 deg F
>
>-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
>vanremog(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Book from NUckolls |
Bert,
While I can understand your frustration, Bob has always given me
excellent service and response to my questions and has spent time
with me on several long phone calls answering my questions. I can't
understand why you had a problem dealing with him.
Bruce
Glasair III
bert murillo wrote:
>
> Hi:
>
>
> I had sent a check to B. Nuckolls for his book
> on NOvember 2000.
>
> After a month or so, I wrote a couple of E-mails
> asking about my order. no reply. Later at the end
> of December 2000, I sent a Fax, with same question
> NO answer..
>
> I figured, check was lost.. but no answer to
> all the e-mails or Fax??
>
> Guess what, Yesterday, Friday February
> 2nd.,2001, the package arrived, mailed at end
> of January 2001..
>
> I already had bought something else, and got
> the FAA circular 43.1 for free, excellent..
>
> Book is being returned. I am not impressed
> with the service. Any how I do not need to buy
> from this outfit.
>
> Bert
>
> RV6a
> Wiring panel...and looking different engine
> posibilities..
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Door Efficacy |
Van
The explaination on how oil gets to the oil cooler through the vernither is
correct. Why are you taking issue with it and what do you think you know that
the
rest of us dont?
Tom McIntyre
Vanremog(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> In a message dated 2/3/01 8:26:40 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> jsflyrv(at)teleport.com writes:
>
> << I also have the door on the oil cooler and do not get over 5 degrees
> > > in temp raise. The problem with a door on the oil cooler is that the oil
> > > does
> > > not really start to go through the cooler until the engine reaches a
> > > certain
> > > temp. This is usually around the 160-180 on the engines equipped with
> the
> > > "verni-therm."(sp) The reason there is a small amount of temp rise is
> > > because
> > > there is a small amount of oil passing through the cooler and as the oil
> > > temp rises more and more oil passes through the oil cooler.
> > > IMO it is not worth the time or extra weight and control to install an
> oil
> > > cooler door. >>
>
> The statement above without a shred of evidence to back it up is the reason
> people have difficulty trusting the info they get on the RV-list. I try to
> provide real data, despite the numerous variables in our respective aircraft.
>
> I went up today and got the following performance data on the oil cooler door
> installation on my 6A. It is an O-360-A1A with C/S prop installation with
> the Niagara P/N 20002A oil cooler that Van's used to sell and the standard
> Van's cowling/baffles (no plenum). The cooler is mounted long axis
> vertically on the left rear baffle and has a straight unobstructed flow of
> air. This position is difficult to get on most RV installations as there is
> only about a .350" distance to the cowling. Any lower would obstruct at
> least a portion of this cooler. At any rate, I believe this installation to
> be ideal. All data was collected after allowing 15 minutes stabilization
> time, although the temperature actually reached within 2 degrees F of the
> extremes in less than 5 minutes.
>
> All gauges are accurate. Engine data was read off of the VM1000 engine
> monitor.
>
> Altitude 5500 ft MSL over the Central Valley
> Air Temperature 60 deg F (good inversion in CA today)
> MP 23.5 inHg
> RPM 2350
> Fuel 9.5 gph
> TAS 185 mph
> #3 CHT (door fully closed) 395 deg F, (door fully open) 380 deg F
> #3 EGT 1365 deg F
> Oil Temperature (door fully closed) 205 deg F, (door fully open) 175 deg F
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Door Efficacy |
In a message dated 2/3/01 9:00:16 PM Pacific Standard Time,
jsflyrv(at)teleport.com writes:
<< Being a little bit of a prick aren't you Gary? I can produce at least
three airplane that are here or used to be here on my home field that get
the same results that I do. Also there is other testimony right here on
the list from others that also do not get good results with an oil cooler
doors. >>
Jerry-
I trust your judgment. So if you think I was being a prick, you must be
correct. I just didn't see the data to support the contention in your post.
I hope you and the list can forgive my ill worded post. The data for my plane
still stands.
As I said, there are many variables. This is apparently also true regarding
written communication.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Door Efficacy |
Vanremog(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> All gauges are accurate. Engine data was read off of the VM1000 engine
> monitor.
>
> Altitude 5500 ft MSL over the Central Valley
> Air Temperature 60 deg F (good inversion in CA today)
> MP 23.5 inHg
> RPM 2350
> Fuel 9.5 gph
> TAS 185 mph
> #3 CHT (door fully closed) 395 deg F, (door fully open) 380 deg F
> #3 EGT 1365 deg F
> Oil Temperature (door fully closed) 205 deg F, (door fully open) 175 deg F
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
Gary I have been thinking about why you get the results that you do, and I
think (and this of course is JMHO) that you are already running a oil temp of
at least 175 deg. If this is the case of course you would get a much higher
reading when closing the door because you are not allowing the oil to
cool that is already up to temp and in the vernatherm operating range.
In effect you are defeating the purpose of the cooler and stopping the
oil from cooling that is going through the cooler so natually a higer temp
with door closed.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Door Efficacy |
My experience is similar to those who have found the oil cooler door
to be of little value. I have an O-360 A1A with SW oil cooler fed by 3"
SCAT tube. This winter I found that I routinely had oil temps of only
150-160 even with the oil cooler door shut. I "winterized" my engine
by placing duct tape over the SCAT opening in the baffling, leaving
only a 1/2" diameter hole in the duct tape. Now my oil temps are
around 180 in cruise, as desired.
I presume that a significant amount of air leaks around my oil cooler
door even when it is closed. I worked hard to make the door seal as
well as I could when I built the plane. If I had it to do over again, I'd
look at installing a door inside the cowling, or the neat little butterfly
valve that somebody posted recently.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oil Cooler Door Efficacy |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Oil Cooler Door Efficacy
Thread-Index: AcCOhcNKD9S5I2kgTRynI3q32ixENQAJjY7A
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
> oil from cooling that is going through the cooler so natually
> a higer temp
> with door closed.
Isn't this the idea?
Although I have no specific oil temp data at the moment, I can tell you
absolutely and unequivocally that blocking the front of the oil cooler
WORKS in my plane. If it didn't, I'd be flying around with 120 degree
oil temps right now.
Rough numbers:
90 OAT 160 OT--no tape on oil cooler inlet
90 OAT 190 OT--cooler area taped closed 50%
33 OAT 165 OT--cooler taped closed 80%(yesterday morning)
With that being said, a local RV-4 flier has his oil cooler mounted on
the left rear baffle and has a door on the front of the cooler with good
results. No too long ago I stopped by his hangar, and while he had the
cowl off for an oil change we got to talking about his oil cooler setup.
He originally had a door on the back of the oil cooler and that did next
to nothing in raising oil temps. He removed that one and made a new
door that fits on the front, which works well.
Not being an expert in the subject of vernatherms, are there different
versions which open/close at different temperatures?
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Welch" <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
I just started putting my RV-8A firewall together. I don't see a
size call out for the four holes in the corners that the motor mount
will bolt to. Does anyone know what size these holes should be and
where in the drawings it is mentioned?
Thanks,
Vince Welch
RV-8A Fuselage
Roaming Shores, Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Interesting FAR question |
--- Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
>
> Here is an interesting question regarding certification. Can the
> owner/builder of a homebuilt aircraft determine that he needs a
> second-in-command or a flight engineer for the airplane he's built?
> Regardless of its cofiguration? Even on something like an RV-6?
If you are referring to the fly-off period, I have seen and heard
several times of "required crew members" going up during that
restricted time.
Mike Robertson can probably give the "official" viewpoint. Hellooooo,
Mike?
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Panel
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Interesting FAR question |
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
> Here is an interesting question regarding certification. Can the
> owner/builder of a homebuilt aircraft determine that he needs a
> second-in-command or a flight engineer for the airplane he's built?
> Regardless of its cofiguration? Even on something like an RV-6?
>
> - Glenn Gordon
The first flight of my 6A was done not by me, but by a trusted and
experienced RV pilot. The second flight (my first flight) was with that
person in the right seat. I would be happy to argue to any court that this
person's presence and duties as an observer were vital to the safe outcome
of the flight.
My thoughts were this.
1] If something "funny" happened, his experience would would put him in a
much better position to deal with it than I.
2] He was far better able to assess the qualities and problems of the
airplane than I was.
3] In the event of any difficulties, he would be able to inform me whether
the problems encountered were with the plane or my techniques as a pilot.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Doors -my two cents |
Hi listers,
I can't speak from practical experience on this one, but I have spent a lot
of hours thinking about it. Up here in Winnipeg, Canada temps range
from -35C to +35C. In fact, many aircraft up here are winterized with plates
on the cowl air intakes that block off most of the air entering the engine
altogether. So, I figured an oil cooler door would be mandatory.
I mounted my oil cooler on the firewall using Van's kit, but added a plenum
chamber to give a smoother transition from the 3 inch scat tube to the
roughly 3 by 6 inch area of the cooler. (I'm not at the shop so I'm going
from memory here). I fabricated a "conventional" RV oil cooler door at the
exit of the cooler. I think I used .040, with the actuating lever at one end
of the flap. But then I got to thinking - how much pressure is going to be
trying to force this door open at high speeds? I did an approximate
calculation and for a cruise of 160 mph indicated, and an oil cooler door of
3 by 6 inches, it works out to at least 10 pounds of force acting on the
door. Maybe more; fluid dynamics aren't my specialty. Ten pounds of force on
a simple flap door is going to force it open somewhat, unless you have built
the thing out of 0.125 aluminum or something equally stiff. And if there is
any significant leakage, your oil cooler is going to be doing some unwanted
cooling. Bottom line: flap doors as fluid valves suck big time, which is why
nearly every commercial fluid valve is either a butterfly type, sliding vane
or rotary. In these types of valves, the pressure of the fluid won't force
them open. I decided to fabricate a simple butterfly valve built into the
oil cooler plenum flange - very similar to the picture somone already posted
on their web site. It was easy to make. I'll be sure to add a spring so that
if the cable fails, it fails open.
On a related note, I am also concerned about the carb heat door on the air
box - when the door is closed at cruise speeds it will be subject to a
dynamic pressure from the main air intake of 3-4 pounds trying to force it
open. With the standard Van's actuating lever and control cable geometry,
that door is going to be forced open a bit, diluting the hot air from the
carburetor heat muff. Since I haven't seen any RV builder claim more than a
16 degree temperature rise with the carb heat on and a full heat muff, I
think this is another system that could use a bit more refinement. The
certified requirement for carb heat is a minimum 20 degree rise; while I
accept my homebuilder's right to build to less than part 23 requirements,
this seems like a pretty cut-and-dried safety issue: if you get carb ice,
will your carb heat melt it in time to save your bacon or won't it? I'd sure
like it to work when I need it.
Curt
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Lewis <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2001 7:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Cooler Door Efficacy
>
> My experience is similar to those who have found the oil cooler door
> to be of little value. I have an O-360 A1A with SW oil cooler fed by 3"
> SCAT tube. This winter I found that I routinely had oil temps of only
> 150-160 even with the oil cooler door shut. I "winterized" my engine
> by placing duct tape over the SCAT opening in the baffling, leaving
> only a 1/2" diameter hole in the duct tape. Now my oil temps are
> around 180 in cruise, as desired.
>
> I presume that a significant amount of air leaks around my oil cooler
> door even when it is closed. I worked hard to make the door seal as
> well as I could when I built the plane. If I had it to do over again, I'd
> look at installing a door inside the cowling, or the neat little butterfly
> valve that somebody posted recently.
>
> Tim
> ******
> Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
> RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
> http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
> ******
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Wheel Installation Help |
I am trying to install the wheels on my RV-4 landing gear legs. I was
under the impression that the wheel bearings should be a slip fit over the
axle. My wheels' bearings are an interference fit. I feel they will go on
with some reasonable tapping with a soft mallet, but is this normal? I want
to be able to remove the wheels easily if I ever have to change a tire in
the field. Also, I have tried sanding the axle with emery paper, but this
hasn't helped. Any ideas?
Ted Lumpkin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Door Efficacy |
>
>My experience is similar to those who have found the oil cooler door
>to be of little value. I have an O-360 A1A with SW oil cooler fed by 3"
>SCAT tube. This winter I found that I routinely had oil temps of only
>150-160 even with the oil cooler door shut. I "winterized" my engine
>by placing duct tape over the SCAT opening in the baffling, leaving
>only a 1/2" diameter hole in the duct tape. Now my oil temps are
>around 180 in cruise, as desired.
Same experience here exactly, as far as temps and results after duct tape
application. Only difference: my Niagara cooler is on the left rear baffle.
I covered 50% of the cooler with aluminum tape, and now the temp goes to 180
degrees (approx vernatherm setting) and stays there..rock solid...in all
flight modes. I was thinking about doing the controllable door
modification, but since tape is so easy, and CHEAP, I think I'll stay with
the KISS principle.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
170 hrs.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Light Dimmer Questions |
> > My two cabin floods are the small eyeball ones from Van's installed in
the
> > slider canopy side decks so they are used full strength with a little
red
> > transparent nail polish over the ends.
I find the little eyeball lights very dim, I'm not going to use the four
that I bought.
> After watching the list for several years I can't recall seeing anyone
> mention a single flood-like light for panel illumination (pick your
> color) mounted on the center of the tip-up rollbar, similar to the
> "dome" light in the C-150 I fly. This would also seem like a useful
> location for small spotlights for chart reading, etc. and would not
> cause reflections off the canopy. Has anyone done this or is there a
> good reason not to, assuming it could be done without weakening the
> rollover structure?
I am mounting two of Vans Rotating Map/Panel Lights P/N Maplite 300 in the
tip up canopy frame between the two occupant's heads (very close to center).
I plan to cross the beams to flood the cockpit for a maplight. They will be
controlled right on the Infinity Stick Grip. They should be good enough for
a backup panel lighting system but it is too early for me to know for sure.
My main panel lighting will come from a strip of bulbs in a white plastic
cover under the lip of a long glairsheild that will cover the whole panel
and stick out far enough to block reflection onto the canopy.
Regards,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Doors -my two cents |
Very good, Curt -- you are correct on both counts. My oil door opens a bit
when I close it as I didn't use a ratchet cable. Even when I hold the cable
handle out while flying (autopilot engaged) I can feel a tremendous
resistance, so the forces blowing open the oil door are sizable.
My carb heat cable is a ratchet type and even so the cable usually slips a
notch or two in the pattern when I pull carb heat. I feel the carb heat area
could use some design improvement.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 41 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Curt Reimer <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sunday, February 04, 2001 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Cooler Doors -my two cents
>
>Hi listers,
>
>I can't speak from practical experience on this one, but I have spent a lot
>of hours thinking about it. Up here in Winnipeg, Canada temps range
>from -35C to +35C. In fact, many aircraft up here are winterized with
plates
>on the cowl air intakes that block off most of the air entering the engine
>altogether. So, I figured an oil cooler door would be mandatory.
>
>I mounted my oil cooler on the firewall using Van's kit, but added a plenum
>chamber to give a smoother transition from the 3 inch scat tube to the
>roughly 3 by 6 inch area of the cooler. (I'm not at the shop so I'm going
>from memory here). I fabricated a "conventional" RV oil cooler door at the
>exit of the cooler. I think I used .040, with the actuating lever at one
end
>of the flap. But then I got to thinking - how much pressure is going to be
>trying to force this door open at high speeds? I did an approximate
>calculation and for a cruise of 160 mph indicated, and an oil cooler door
of
>3 by 6 inches, it works out to at least 10 pounds of force acting on the
>door. Maybe more; fluid dynamics aren't my specialty. Ten pounds of force
on
>a simple flap door is going to force it open somewhat, unless you have
built
>the thing out of 0.125 aluminum or something equally stiff. And if there is
>any significant leakage, your oil cooler is going to be doing some unwanted
>cooling. Bottom line: flap doors as fluid valves suck big time, which is
why
>nearly every commercial fluid valve is either a butterfly type, sliding
vane
>or rotary. In these types of valves, the pressure of the fluid won't force
>them open. I decided to fabricate a simple butterfly valve built into the
>oil cooler plenum flange - very similar to the picture somone already
posted
>on their web site. It was easy to make. I'll be sure to add a spring so
that
>if the cable fails, it fails open.
>
>On a related note, I am also concerned about the carb heat door on the air
>box - when the door is closed at cruise speeds it will be subject to a
>dynamic pressure from the main air intake of 3-4 pounds trying to force it
>open. With the standard Van's actuating lever and control cable geometry,
>that door is going to be forced open a bit, diluting the hot air from the
>carburetor heat muff. Since I haven't seen any RV builder claim more than a
>16 degree temperature rise with the carb heat on and a full heat muff, I
>think this is another system that could use a bit more refinement. The
>certified requirement for carb heat is a minimum 20 degree rise; while I
>accept my homebuilder's right to build to less than part 23 requirements,
>this seems like a pretty cut-and-dried safety issue: if you get carb ice,
>will your carb heat melt it in time to save your bacon or won't it? I'd
sure
>like it to work when I need it.
>
>Curt
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Tim Lewis <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
>To:
>Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2001 7:35 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Cooler Door Efficacy
>
>
>>
>> My experience is similar to those who have found the oil cooler door
>> to be of little value. I have an O-360 A1A with SW oil cooler fed by 3"
>> SCAT tube. This winter I found that I routinely had oil temps of only
>> 150-160 even with the oil cooler door shut. I "winterized" my engine
>> by placing duct tape over the SCAT opening in the baffling, leaving
>> only a 1/2" diameter hole in the duct tape. Now my oil temps are
>> around 180 in cruise, as desired.
>>
>> I presume that a significant amount of air leaks around my oil cooler
>> door even when it is closed. I worked hard to make the door seal as
>> well as I could when I built the plane. If I had it to do over again,
I'd
>> look at installing a door inside the cowling, or the neat little
butterfly
>> valve that somebody posted recently.
>>
>> Tim
>> ******
>> Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
>> RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
>> http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
>> ******
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Installation Help |
Ted Lumpkin wrote:
>
>
> I am trying to install the wheels on my RV-4 landing gear legs. I was
> under the impression that the wheel bearings should be a slip fit over the
> axle. My wheels' bearings are an interference fit. I feel they will go on
> with some reasonable tapping with a soft mallet, but is this normal? I want
> to be able to remove the wheels easily if I ever have to change a tire in
> the field. Also, I have tried sanding the axle with emery paper, but this
> hasn't helped. Any ideas?
>
> Ted Lumpkin
>
Ted
Unless you have some parts that are actually the wrong size it takes a lot of
emery paper action to get the bearings to slide on and off. They should be a
pretty snug fit though. I have had my wheels on and off quite a few time
in eleven years and I still have to use a rubber mallet to get them to slide
off.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Installation Help |
>
> I am trying to install the wheels on my RV-4 landing gear legs. I was
> under the impression that the wheel bearings should be a slip fit over the
> axle. My wheels' bearings are an interference fit. I feel they will go
on
> with some reasonable tapping with a soft mallet, but is this normal? I
want
> to be able to remove the wheels easily if I ever have to change a tire in
> the field. Also, I have tried sanding the axle with emery paper, but this
> hasn't helped. Any ideas?
>
Lots about this in the archives. Keep after it with the emery cloth.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Door Efficacy |
<>
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
Verrrry Interesting. Eh? Both of my RV-4's have had ice cold oil temps in
the winter. The first was mounted on the fire wall and used 1 1/2" scat for
cooling. I covered over half of the intake area and the temps were perfect
(190-210). My new RV-4 has its oil cooler mounted on the left rear baffle
and has a well fitting door on the exit side. This door does absolutely
nothing to help raise the temps. The entrance side is, of course, huge
(probably 25 sq.inches.) I will bet my house that If I close of the intake
side somewhat with duct tape, the oil temps will rise. Why is that? Are
well fitting doors really not that well fitting in flight? I will let the
list know soon what my results are ASAP.
By the way, we have not had a good flame fight on the list for many months.
I was getting bored. I feel better now. But let's not fight to the death.
G.V. is a tremendous asset to this list. Kind of like Electric Bob, Mike
Roberson, and Scott McDaniels.
Louis I. Willig
larywil(at)home.com
RV-4, N180PF, 70 hrs. and climbing fast
I0-360, Hartzell C/S
(610) 668-4964
Penn Valley, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
While browsing through the March issue of Astronomy last night (I'd
finished the RVator...) who do I see prominently featured but Larry Pardue
and his buddy George West! Seem that while they were out flying one morning
a meteor shot by them and crashed to the ground. Not only do we have to
envy all of the RV exploits he has been so kind to share with us, but now it
turns out he is a famous meteor spotter as well.
He's an RV builder who has really seen the light!
Dave Burton
RV6A, wings
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Door Efficacy |
Come on guys, my ten year old grandaughter reads this list with me, we
can be a little more civil.Namecalling is rude and unnessary. Lets keep
it on a nicer mindset, OK ? Bob Murphy RV4
282EM 400+ hours Poplar Grove ,ILL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Book from NUckolls |
> Book is being returned. I am not impressed
> with the service. Any how I do not need to buy
> from this outfit.
It's too bad you had this experience. I've had good service from him, and I
couldn't count all the things (parts, advice, and bits of valuable
instruction) that I've received from him that I would have been hard-pressed
to find anywhere else.
However, I do get the impression he over-extends himself sometimes, what
with his Aeroelectric list, parts service, book updates, seminars, magazine
articles, and tons of free help he gives (in person, via email and on the
phone.) Given all that, I'm not surprised he sometimes drops the ball.
Most homebuilders who have been around for a while already know this, but I
hope the new guys will not be discouraged by the occasional report of a
problem. Keep the faith, and you too will come to recognize what a valuable
resource we all have in this man.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Compass Mounting Fasteners |
Hi,
I have some brass 6-32 machine screws which I will be using to mount my
compass. I can't find 6-32 Brass locknuts. Will regular AN365 locknuts
suffice? or will their magnetic properties interfere with the compass?
I can always use brass washer, lockwasher, nut, locktite combination.
What is the correct method?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass Mounting Fasteners |
If you use the "grasshopper" nuts there shouldn't be a problem.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2001 5:32 PM
Subject: RV-List: Compass Mounting Fasteners
>
> Hi,
> I have some brass 6-32 machine screws which I will be using to mount my
> compass. I can't find 6-32 Brass locknuts. Will regular AN365 locknuts
> suffice? or will their magnetic properties interfere with the compass?
> I can always use brass washer, lockwasher, nut, locktite combination.
> What is the correct method?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Our Buddy Larry |
>
> While browsing through the March issue of Astronomy last night (I'd
> finished the RVator...) who do I see prominently featured but Larry Pardue
> and his buddy George West! Seem that while they were out flying one
morning
> a meteor shot by them and crashed to the ground. Not only do we have to
> envy all of the RV exploits he has been so kind to share with us, but now
it
> turns out he is a famous meteor spotter as well.
>
> He's an RV builder who has really seen the light!
>
I wish I would get my copy. Because of past experience I am just worried
about whether I come off as a total idiot or not. It was an amazing
experience though!
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Book from NUckolls |
Randall,
You are right on - Bob's very generous help not to mention his excellent
text has help Dave and I plan design and wire our all electric RV-8A. I
don't think we'd have any where near the reliable systems that we have
without Bob's advise, text and parts we ordered from him (saved a fair
amount on the parts).
I'd suggest that the original poster relax just a tad, our projects are a
long term effort (even with a quick build) and I understand the desire to
press on but I've found it very beneficial to step back once in a while to
keep my priorities in perspective (not to mention my home life).
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (wings & fiberglass to be painted)
Niantic, CT
>From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Book from NUckolls
>Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 14:41:20 -0800
>
>
> > Book is being returned. I am not impressed
> > with the service. Any how I do not need to buy
> > from this outfit.
>
>It's too bad you had this experience. I've had good service from him, and I
>couldn't count all the things (parts, advice, and bits of valuable
>instruction) that I've received from him that I would have been
>hard-pressed
>to find anywhere else.
>
>However, I do get the impression he over-extends himself sometimes, what
>with his Aeroelectric list, parts service, book updates, seminars, magazine
>articles, and tons of free help he gives (in person, via email and on the
>phone.) Given all that, I'm not surprised he sometimes drops the ball.
>
>Most homebuilders who have been around for a while already know this, but I
>hope the new guys will not be discouraged by the occasional report of a
>problem. Keep the faith, and you too will come to recognize what a valuable
>resource we all have in this man.
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
>Portland, OR
>http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | The RV Story video is now online. |
Thread-Topic: The RV Story video is now online.
Thread-Index: AcCPFObi9xvmzZjpRKGJd1YW8yXing=
| From: | "Reeves, Doug" <Douglas.Reeves(at)archongroup.com> |
Hi listers.
I post this with a little apprehension, as the last time there was a
video announcement it brought the server hosting it to its knees...but
life is short, so here goes...
With Van's blessing, David McCutchen of Dallas,TX digitized the
promotional video Van's sells and has made it available in Real
streaming format on the web. You will need Real Player (available at
www.real.com for free) to view it. Very soon you will also be able to
view it using Windows Media Player.
If you have a 56K modem you should expect a 1 inch by 1 inch viewing
area. Users with ISDN, cable, or faster connections get around a 3 inch
by 3 inch image.
I put the link to the video on its own page as Van wanted to have a
unique hit tracker to gauge user interest. I don't think that will be a
problem .
Webmasters please feel free to link to the page it's on. The more
people that see this the better. Tell your friends and neighbors!
Email the link to all those friends of yours you think should be
building!
You can get to it by going to the Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing site
(www.vansaircraft.net) and clicking on 'Videos', then 'The RV Story'.
Sometime in the near future there will be downloadable versions you can
store on your hard disk.
Thanks again to David McCutchen (david@davidmccutchen), and kindest
regards. Now, back to the shop...
Doug Reeves - RV-6 Fuse - Dallas,TX
vansairforce(at)hotmail.com
Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
www.vansaircraft.net
PS. Don't forget to mark your calendars for the HUGE RV fly-in near
Waco, TX on June 2nd. More info at
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/CougarLanding/cougarlanding.htm.
Everyone is welcome (plane or no plane). There's gonna be BBQ!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Book from NUckolls |
Actually I have sent Bob several emails and posted several questions (basic
dumb ones) on his list and the only answer I ever got was one time, from
another lister.
Dennis Thomas
RV-9A
Emp
wings on order
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Book from NUckolls |
> Actually I have sent Bob several emails and posted several questions
(basic
> dumb ones) on his list and the only answer I ever got was one time, from
> another lister.
I have to say that some questions I've asked him via e-mail have gone
unanswered too. Seems he goes "off-line" from time to time, no doubt out of
town doing a seminar or something, and never gets caught up when he gets
back.
He has gone to his own -List however, the Aeroelectric List -- check the
Matronics web site for subscribing. I've checked it from time to time and it
seems like he has been able to improve his -List presence since going to the
dedicated list. I don't believe he subscribes to the RV-List at all anymore.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv-list rv-6a sliding canopy |
--- REALILY(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> sent by; Real Dupuis, realily(at)aol.com
>
> to; anyone with rv sliding canopy building experience,
>
> I'm having difficulty to align my rv-6a sliding canopy
> frame,
> When its in the full forward (closed position), and centered even
> with
> fuselage sides, the rear track is off center by 1/2 inches, if I bend
> the
> front frame tube, I can get the rear track to center but the tube
> contour no
> longer follow the wd641 contour, in other word, a bad fit.
Can you be more specific about what bending you have to do to get it
lined up?
You will want to have the rail centered at the back.
When you say the tube contour no longer follows the roll bar, keep in
mind that most every slider installation requires the plexi be shimmed
in several location to have the canopy plexi follow the contour of the
windshield (longitudinally).
If when your rail is centered, the front of the canopy frame is no
longer parallel to the roll bar laterally (closes against one side but
then has a gap on the other side) that can be addressed by making the
roll bar match the canopy frame. Since the windshield is trimmed to
fit, I can't see a problem with that if the movement is small (1/4 -
1/2 inch). Be careful neither of the roll bar mounting holes wind up
inside the F404 channel.
The slider installation is one big exercise in FIT COMPROMISE. Tweak
and fit, tweak and fit.
G'luck!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Panel
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R. Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net> |
| Subject: | starter solenoid on battery tray |
Listers:
I am mounting the starter solenoid on the battery tray which is on the
firewall (as shown on the plans for an RV-8A with a forward battery).
Problem is the engine mount (dynafocal) gets in the way! Any problems
with mounting the master relay upside down and switching sides (solenoid
outboard instead of master) to get the premade wires to fit?
Thanks!
Wayne Williams
RV-8A
N99767(R)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | inverted fuel system |
I have the the flop tube inverted fuel pickup in my right wing. The manual
comments that the normal boost pump and mechanical pump may not work with
this setup. Has anyone had problems with the inverted pickup using the
normal boost and fuel pump??
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage/finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pappy built an RV-3! |
> I'm most of the way through the newly-published book "Black Sheep One -
The Life of
> Gregory "Pappy" Boyington, by Bruce Gamble (Presidio Press)...on page 403,
Gamble
> notes that Pappy began building an RV-3 sometime in the late 70s (didn't
say whether
> he finished it, tho!).
>
A couple of years ago there was an ad running for several months in the
by-weekly tabloid, Flyer, published in Tacoma, WA., for Boyington's RV-3. I
believe the ad said that it was "built for Boyington" and I believe the ad
indicated it was in Olympia, where Boyington had lived before his death a
few years ago.
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pappy built an RV-3! |
| From: | Shelby Smith <rvaitor(at)home.com> |
I think that plane is over in Tennessee or Alabama now. I saw one
purportedly Pappy Boyington's RV-3(orange&white I think) at Shelbyville last
year.
--
Shelby Smith
rvaitor(at)home.com
RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
N95EB - reserved
> From: Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 19:00:06 -0800
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Pappy built an RV-3!
>
>
> I'm pretty sure the Bakersfield Bunch built the RV3 and Pappy bought it.
> Tom
> RV3 978TM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan & Patty Krueger <pndkrueg(at)gulfsurf.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Low oil temp/CHT - Thank you |
Thank you for all of your comments and suggestions. It seems that the
topic has taken a life of it's own now.This is Carl's second RV-6. The
first one he purchased from the original builder. He also owns a 172 -
neither of these planes had/have the cooling problem that he is now
experiencing. His current plane, he built with the help of a
professional RV builder. It may well be that his baffling is just too
efficient and the engine isn't getting warm enough to heat the oil and
open the veritherm(sp?) - there were at least two posts that suggested
this.
Time to move onto my problems - the current one is why does Bendix/King
not reccomend using a bent whip with the KLX-135A?
Thanks again
Dan Krueger
-6A - wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: engine mount RV-6A & RV-9A |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
From: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com>
Subject: RV-List: engine mount RV-6A & RV-9A
Does anybody know if the engine mounts are the same for these two models?
If
I look at and get dimensions off of a 6A would I be safe to apply those
in
answering my questions as far as engine clearances?
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage (wings ordered)
looking for engine
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
The engine mount for the RV-6A and the RV-9A are one in the same "except"
for an RV-9A using an O-235 Lycoming. It will be slightly longer to
adjust for the lower weight engine.
Scott McDaniels
Aurora, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Book from NUckolls |
Hey Bert - in your business do you give away for free most of what you have?
Bob does. What Bob gives us is a wealth of experience and knowledge and he
provides it to all of us free of charge. His charge for the book is most
reasonable and mine arrived in good time. I would guess he could increase
his wealth significantly by walking away from us and our piddly little
projects.
I sure hope your whining doesn't drive him away! So your book was late,
forget it and grow up.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv-list rv-6a sliding canopy |
> When its in the full forward (closed position), and centered even with
> fuselage sides, the rear track is off center by 1/2 inches,
If you center it there will be a gap where the canopy frame meets the roll
bar - how big is that gap? What if you split that amount between gap and
off center?
I would talk to Van's before doing any bending unless, perhaps, you have
welding capability.
On mine, I enlarged the notch in the top of the plastic slider block so that
the canopy frame can move side to side slightly.
The cause of these problems is the inability to hold perfect dimensions. I
suppose the tolerances - the operative word here - are very close to
perfection in space vehicles but they are built with government money! Your
roll bar is probably not **PERFECTLY** perpendicular with the aircraft's
centerline, the fuselage is probably not **PERFECTLY** symetrical about
the centerline, the canopy frame is probably not **PERFECTLY** formed and
so on. Finally, the basic design does not have a way built in to accomodate
this condition.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Vince,
If I recall correctly the prepunched holes are 3/16" diameter in both the
firewall and the weldments, and when you get your engine mount you drill
them out to 3/8". I'm not in my workshop and can't remember where I saw
this size. I did check it though, because I used 1/4" bolts to mount the
firewall to the jig and wanted to make sure before I drilled the holes
out that I wasn't going to overdo it. I had 1/4" bolts laying around and
decided to use them instead of buying some 3/16" just to jig the
firewall.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A skinning fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich FM72-87"
From: "Vince Welch" <vwelch(at)knownet.net>
Subject: RV-List: Firewall
I just started putting my RV-8A firewall together. I don't see a
size call out for the four holes in the corners that the motor mount
will bolt to. Does anyone know what size these holes should be and
where in the drawings it is mentioned?
Thanks,
Vince Welch
RV-8A Fuselage
Roaming Shores, Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 87" Sensenich? |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Laird,
No typo, I do have an 87" Sensenich. I believe it's one-of-a-kind. It
was the one advertised in the classifieds on the back of the last RVator
by Lee Ballard. He was the first to use the fixed-pitch metal Sensenich
prop on a 180 hp RV-8. Apparently he had an agreement with Sensenich to
test the prop on his airplane. He told me he started out with a much
lower pitch, something like 81" or 83" and kept sending it back to
Sensenich for more pitch. Eventually they couldn't repitch it anymore
without metal fatigue so the 87" prop he ended up with was a new one. He
likes it (sold it because he found a deal on constant speed). The only
numbers I got from him were that his full throttle rpm at 8500' was 2750.
He said it "climbs well" but I didn't get specifics. My -8A will have a
bit more drag but I decided to fly it as is, and if I don't like it I can
have it repitched down to 85". The price was right at $1450 incl. spacer
and bolts, and repitch costs $150 from Sensenich, so I'd still come out
ahead of Van's new price of $1900.
Being a very slow builder it'll probly be several years before I can give
you any numbers so don't hold your breath.... : )
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A skinning fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich FM72-87" MEGA-CRUISE prop
From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: RV-List: 87" Sensenich? (was) H2AD
Sniped stuff about H2AD's
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich FM72-87"
Hey Mark,
Is that a typo? You gonna put a 87" on your 8A? That sure seems like a
lot of pitch. Be sure to report your preformance figures when you fly.
Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 150 hrs
O-360, Sensenich (83) and underpitched slightly
Simi Valley, SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Door Efficacy |
> #3 CHT (door fully closed) 395 deg F, (door fully open) 380 deg F
> Oil Temperature (door fully closed) 205 deg F, (door fully open) 175 deg F
>
Gary,
That's strange.... I would have expected with the door CLOSED more air
flowing through the cylinder and thus lower CHT. The airflow is indeed
very unpredictable. I'd be interested to know why.
Another question which comes to mind is what the Vernatherm is doing?
Would it not be best to reduce the oil cooler air inlet size
incrementally so that with the 'best cooling airflow' the oil
temperature increases to 180 degrees. 'Best cooling airflow' might be at
cruise in lower than normal air temperature.
When the airflow is less optimum (climb, hot air etc), the Vernatherm
will open, increasing oil flow permitting greater heat transfer from the
oil. The Vernatherm *should* then maintain the oil at 180 degrees.
Fluids and Thermodynamics were never my strong suit...so I am probably
off track here.
Doug Gray
(Hoping that this is an unnecessary engine control.)
RV-6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: inverted fuel system |
In a message dated 2/4/2001 9:27:58 PM Central Standard Time,
rv6bldr(at)home.com writes:
> Has anyone had problems with the inverted pickup using the
> normal boost and fuel pump??
>
>
I've never turn my boost on while inverted, so I wouldn't know. The mech
pump handles it just fine. I have a HP pump with a Bendix injector.
Blue Skies,
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Auto CAD drawing of RV-6 or -6A |
I'm looking for a Auto CAD drawing of RV-6 or -6A. Anyone know where I can
find such a thing on the internet?
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Bending leading edges |
Eric,
Join the club, it is not the most fun part of building an RV. Something
that helped me roll the leading edges was: Place the rudder or elevator on
the edge of your bench. As Van says tape a pipe to the edge of the part to
bend. I used 5/8 inch pipe which gave me more curve. You need to use at
least two strips of duct tape. The trick is to hold down the pipe with "U"
shaped bolts which are long enough to go over the pipe and through your
bench top. You want them just big enough to fit around the pipe. You will
place them in the two or three areas (slots) cut out of the skin for the tie
rod end hinges. Now just twist the pipe with channel locks or vise grips.
Be careful not to twist so far the slot areas hit the "u" bolts. This
process starts a nice bend that you can finish by hand. Well....that was
clear as mud wasn't it. Would be glad to further explain by phone.
515-243-7687.
Jack Textor
RV8
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Book from NUckolls |
I could be wrong (hasn't happened this year yet!) ...I don't think the
deal with the aero electric list was that Bob would answer any and all
posts. I believe there was too much for him to wade through on the
RV-list. I think he will answer, when time is available, questions of
general interest. I, for one, will live with that.
Barry Pote RV9a Wings...thinking hard about a 4.3 Chevy V6
DThomas773(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> Actually I have sent Bob several emails and posted several questions (basic
> dumb ones) on his list and the only answer I ever got was one time, from
> another lister.
> Dennis Thomas
> RV-9A
> Emp
> wings on order
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
My rivet gun is slowly giving up the ghost. Right now I'm trying to decide
whether to try to fix it or buy a new one. Anyone ever crack one of these
things open? The problem I'm having with the little devil is that squeezing
the trigger will only get one half-backed strike. If you ease up pressure
on the work then the gun will fire off normally but if you resume any kind
of pressure on your rivets, it gives you one more strike and then just sits
there hissing. Anyone got a clue 'cause I sure don't.
We're not talking oil cooler doors here. No flame wars now. I know how
frisky you old codgers can get... :-)
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
I wish I would get my copy. Because of past experience I am
just worried
about whether I come off as a total idiot or not. It was an
amazing
experience though!
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
Well, if you have to ask, Larry.... :-)
Just kidding! Sounds pretty exciting! Good thing Laird wasn't out flying
that night!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | If not now, when? |
I had the bottom wing skins riveted on when I put a conduit in the wings. I
used the black corrugated tubing that Van's sells. I used the holes in the
ribs that are supposed to be drilled out for the grommets for the wiring.
Just got a step drill and drilled out the holes big enough to accommodate
the tubing. I prosealed the tubing in place. If I had to do it again I
wouldn't have bothered with the proseal. Well maybe just on the ends.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: David Svajda [mailto:dsvajda(at)home.com]
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2001 10:14 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: If not now, when?
A little help on when to start planning for electical
wiring. I'm
getting ready to start matching wing ribs to spars and I'm a
little
concerned about wiring. When do I need to worry about
clamps,
conduit,...etc? Heated pitot--easier now or later ? Landing
lights...
Since I didn't put any fiberglass on the empennage yet it
won't be too
difficult to wire a white light to the tail, but I'd like
to know how
builders who have gone before me have wired the wings.
Dave Svajda
Wing spars held together by plumb bobs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Pappy built an RV-3! |
If I remember correctly the "PB" RV-3 was built by John Harmon and the
Bakerfield Chapter and given to Boyington, who was having a difficult chapter
in his life...Last time I saw him was at OSK hawking his book...Did not look
very well and couple years later died... The 3 was also in Trade-A-Plane for
a while till it was purchased...If you can get the N number you would have no
trouble tracing its history...Regards, Jim Brown...a20driver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-320 H2AD owners view |
Can anyone, who has done it or knows, "Does the H2AD fit an RV-4?", if not
is it just modifying the cowl (major or minor?).
Thanks, Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Book from NUckolls |
He is a busy guy. He has answered most of my emails, not all. I think
Bob's spirit is willing but he is too hard pressed with other issues to be
able follow through with all his good intentions. I know how that feels. I
get the feeling he is dealing with some personal issues right now. Bear in
mind that he only checks his email in the evening and isn't connected all
the time as a lot of us are.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: barry pote [mailto:barrypote(at)home.com]
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2001 7:09 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Book from NUckolls
I could be wrong (hasn't happened this year yet!) ...I don't
think the
deal with the aero electric list was that Bob would answer
any and all
posts. I believe there was too much for him to wade through
on the
RV-list. I think he will answer, when time is available,
questions of
general interest. I, for one, will live with that.
Barry Pote RV9a Wings...thinking hard about a 4.3 Chevy V6
DThomas773(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> Actually I have sent Bob several emails and posted several
questions (basic
> dumb ones) on his list and the only answer I ever got was
one time, from
> another lister.
> Dennis Thomas
> RV-9A
> Emp
> wings on order
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pappy built an RV-3! |
Tom,
You are right, the RV-3 was built in Bakersfield. I would appreciate a copy
of the photo if you find it.
Bill Bruton
Building a big 3 (RV-8)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pappy built an RV-3! |
RV-3 N8490V is now based in Tennessee. I purchased the RV-3 several years
ago from a retired airline pilot Washington state and flew it for a year
until my large bottom and the addition of a light weight starter moved the CG
to far aft for comfortable flying. I then sold it via the internet to the
gentleman from Tennessee. I have not heard from him in the past year or so,
but he was favorably impressed by the speed and rate of climb. The
Bakersfield Boys did a very nice job in building the aircraft. In the year I
owned it other than the starter it was trouble free. Even with the high time
0-320 (160hp) (H2AD) Lyc the oil consumption was less than 1qt per 10 hrs of
flying. this RV-3 was my first introduction to the RV line and it spoiled me
in my search for a slightly larger aircraft. I tried several older Bonanzas
but was not happy with the control response. There is nothing like the RV
when it comes to control harmony in its price range. For those with
experience in general aviation type planes only the climb, speed, and control
harmony is something they will never forget. I am now wiring and plumbing my
RV-8QB and hope to again enjoy the fun and delight of flying an RV.
Bill Bruton
Tacoma, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | paint chip catalogs |
Anyone out there been able to get paint chip brochures or catalogs from
any of the major paint companies?
Dupont gave me the run around. They have something they sell for $300+.
I want to start planning my paint scheme.
If you recently obtained these, please let me know the part# and
manufacturer.
Thanks,
Barry Pote RV9a Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Huft" <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com> |
Several people are blaming this list for the viruses, but if so, why haven't
I gotten any? I have a new account here that hasn't had that much exposure
to the many possible sources, but I am signed up for RVs and Rockets and no
dwarf virus.
Also, I am on a similar list for cessna 180/185 people, and I have gotten
quite a few double postings from that one too.
No telling where this stuff comes from, protect yourself, and don't be
"shutting down" someone unless you are sure beyond a doubt that you have the
culprit.
John, 184JH res.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Door Efficacy |
Tim,
If you are getting only about 150-160 as you say then blocking the oil
cooler won't have any effect as the Verna-Therm is sxtill closed and no oil
is going to the cooler. The standard Verna-Therm is set to 175-180 degrees.
So blocking the air inlets to the engine would be the only effective way.
Maybe you could move the oil cooler door to the air inlets of the cowling??
Mike Robertson
RV-8A 21.7 hours
>From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Cooler Door Efficacy
>Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 08:35:18 -0500
>
>
>My experience is similar to those who have found the oil cooler door
>to be of little value. I have an O-360 A1A with SW oil cooler fed by 3"
>SCAT tube. This winter I found that I routinely had oil temps of only
>150-160 even with the oil cooler door shut. I "winterized" my engine
>by placing duct tape over the SCAT opening in the baffling, leaving
>only a 1/2" diameter hole in the duct tape. Now my oil temps are
>around 180 in cruise, as desired.
>
>I presume that a significant amount of air leaks around my oil cooler
>door even when it is closed. I worked hard to make the door seal as
>well as I could when I built the plane. If I had it to do over again, I'd
>look at installing a door inside the cowling, or the neat little butterfly
>valve that somebody posted recently.
>
>Tim
>******
>Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
>RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
>http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
>******
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | paint chip catalogs |
Barry,
Check at some of your local auto body shops and see if they have any of the
automotive color charts they would give or loan to you. I used to receive
doubles on everything when I had my body shop.
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of barry pote
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2001 9:12 AM
Subject: RV-List: paint chip catalogs
Anyone out there been able to get paint chip brochures or catalogs from
any of the major paint companies?
Dupont gave me the run around. They have something they sell for $300+.
I want to start planning my paint scheme.
If you recently obtained these, please let me know the part# and
manufacturer.
Thanks,
Barry Pote RV9a Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johnny" <Johnny(at)wiktel.com> |
| Subject: | Cool Oil and CHT |
Seems like there was something about a cable-operated exit air control
flap-thingie at the lower rear of the cowl in an RVaitor a while back...
that may be the best way to attack this low oil temp & CHT thing.
Johnny Johnson
49MM -3 flying... with cool oil & CHT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet gun help |
Scott,
I can't give you advise on fixing your rivet gun, but if you are in the
market for a new one, try the "Yard Store". There's a link to it from Van's
site. I bought a pre-owned 3x gun for about half the new price, and have
been very happy with it. Of course, time will tell how long this dude
lasts.
Good luck,
Jim Bower
St. Louis
RV-6A, Wings
>From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "Rv-List (E-mail)"
>Subject: RV-List: Rivet gun help
>Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 07:34:40 -0800
>
>
>
>My rivet gun is slowly giving up the ghost. Right now I'm trying to decide
>whether to try to fix it or buy a new one. Anyone ever crack one of these
>things open? The problem I'm having with the little devil is that
>squeezing
>the trigger will only get one half-backed strike. If you ease up pressure
>on the work then the gun will fire off normally but if you resume any kind
>of pressure on your rivets, it gives you one more strike and then just sits
>there hissing. Anyone got a clue 'cause I sure don't.
>
>We're not talking oil cooler doors here. No flame wars now. I know how
>frisky you old codgers can get... :-)
>
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
>Network Administrator
>Union Safe Deposit Bank
>209-946-5116
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Interesting FAR question |
As to the test flight period and "Essential Crew", that can be a very "gray"
area. It really comes down to what you and your local FAA inspector agree
on. There has been very successful arguemnts for CFI's to ride along for a
flight or two. And there has also been some successful arguments for a
second person (properly rated) during the latter portions of the test flight
for verifying CG controlability. I, personally, agree with both of these for
several reasons but your mileage with your local inspector may vary. I do,
however, require that this be agreed to in advance as to who will go and
when they will go.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
RV-8A
>From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Interesting FAR question
>Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 08:34:08 -0800 (PST)
>
>
>--- Glenn & Judi wrote:
> >
> >
> > Here is an interesting question regarding certification. Can the
> > owner/builder of a homebuilt aircraft determine that he needs a
> > second-in-command or a flight engineer for the airplane he's built?
> > Regardless of its cofiguration? Even on something like an RV-6?
>
>
>If you are referring to the fly-off period, I have seen and heard
>several times of "required crew members" going up during that
>restricted time.
>
>Mike Robertson can probably give the "official" viewpoint. Hellooooo,
>Mike?
>
>Mike Thompson
>Austin, TX
>-6 N140RV (Reserved)
>Panel
>
>
>Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
>a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Door Efficacy |
Louis,
I thank you (and am humbled) for including me in the list with Scott and
Bob, but do you think you could maybe get my last name spelled right? It's
"RoberTson"!! There......How's that for a flame ;-) HehHeh.
Mike Robertson
>From: Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Cooler Door Efficacy
>Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 14:55:05 -0500
>
>
><the left rear baffle and has a door on the front of the cooler with good
>results. No too long ago I stopped by his hangar, and while he had the
>cowl off for an oil change we got to talking about his oil cooler setup.
>He originally had a door on the back of the oil cooler and that did next
>to nothing in raising oil temps. He removed that one and made a new
>door that fits on the front, which works well.>>
>
>Bob Japundza
>RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
>
>
>Verrrry Interesting. Eh? Both of my RV-4's have had ice cold oil temps in
>the winter. The first was mounted on the fire wall and used 1 1/2" scat for
>cooling. I covered over half of the intake area and the temps were perfect
>(190-210). My new RV-4 has its oil cooler mounted on the left rear baffle
>and has a well fitting door on the exit side. This door does absolutely
>nothing to help raise the temps. The entrance side is, of course, huge
>(probably 25 sq.inches.) I will bet my house that If I close of the intake
>side somewhat with duct tape, the oil temps will rise. Why is that? Are
>well fitting doors really not that well fitting in flight? I will let the
>list know soon what my results are ASAP.
>
>By the way, we have not had a good flame fight on the list for many months.
>I was getting bored. I feel better now. But let's not fight to the death.
>G.V. is a tremendous asset to this list. Kind of like Electric Bob, Mike
>Roberson, and Scott McDaniels.
>
>
>Louis I. Willig
>larywil(at)home.com
>RV-4, N180PF, 70 hrs. and climbing fast
>I0-360, Hartzell C/S
>(610) 668-4964
>Penn Valley, PA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: paint chip catalogs |
In a message dated 2/5/01 9:13:16 AM Pacific Standard Time,
barrypote(at)home.com writes:
>
>
> Anyone out there been able to get paint chip brochures or catalogs from
> any of the major paint companies?
>
> Dupont gave me the run around. They have something they sell for $300+.
>
>
My advice to you is to hook up with the paint store that you will be buying
your paint from, they will loan you the paint chip brochures for a day or
two.
PS Painting your plane sucks so buy the good stuff and take no short cuts
Tim Barnes
N39TB
97% Painted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "<Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com> |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with ESMTP id
for" ;
Mon,
05 Feb 2001 13:32:42.-0500(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: paint chip catalogs |
02/05/2001 01:29:10 PM
Shirwin Williams sends them out with their info packs. Check out the
archives or yeller pages for the phone #'s. You probably get 50-70 chips.
Ask for an Acry Glow and Jet Glow info pack.
barry pote (at)matronics.com on 02/05/2001 12:11:40 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: paint chip catalogs
Anyone out there been able to get paint chip brochures or catalogs from
any of the major paint companies?
Dupont gave me the run around. They have something they sell for $300+.
I want to start planning my paint scheme.
If you recently obtained these, please let me know the part# and
manufacturer.
Thanks,
Barry Pote RV9a Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sandra Baggett <accuracy(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV6/A project for sale |
RV6A project. Tail feathers completed, control surfaces completed, wings
99% complete, engine cowl, and may other components. $5400.00.
I have one RV6A and decided not to build another one.
Please respond off list or call 615-643-1030. I am 30 miles north of
Nashville, Tn.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> |
I have an O360 lycoming I have tried a couple of
mechanical tachs with little success. Has anyone used
the electronic tach by UMA ($300)which connects to the
engine drive and electronically sends a signal to a 3
1/8" analog instrument.supposed to be within +/-.02%
appreciate any info. (dont want to connect to the mag
p leads)
Joe
RV6A 132Hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-320 engines |
There is a Lycoming shop in Denton TX selling runout
AD's for $3200. Email me @ smokyray(at)yahoo.com for
details.
Rob Ray
N557RR
--- Chuck Rabaut wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Chuck Rabaut"
>
>
> I've been looking and looking... Anyone see one of
> those $4-$5 K H2AD's
> please let me know A.S.A.P.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chuck
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: O-320 engines
>
>
> > Very politely....B.S. One of the best aviation
> bargains in Lycommings is
> > the H2AD. For 4 or 5000 dollars you can strap one
> on the RV and go flying.
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Auto CAD drawing of RV-6 or -6A |
Steve,
Check out Tim Lewis' web page at:
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a/
Look in the Plan/Doc/Links page for some ACAD drawing I did several years back.
Thanks to Tim for hosting my drawings.
Laird
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Mon, Feb 5, 2001 6:47 AM
Subject: RV-List: Auto CAD drawing of RV-6 or -6A
I'm looking for a Auto CAD drawing of RV-6 or -6A. Anyone know where I can
find such a thing on the internet?
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
With all this talk lately of engines it reminded me of something that has
been asked now a couple of times here recently. And these questions are
without the leg fairings installed yet. I have been asked twice now if our
little RV-8A is turbine powered because of the climb rate and how quickly it
accelerates, and approach has had to ask me several times to slow down
because they thought I was just flying a little aircraft like the Cessna's,
Aeronca's and such. Obviously, the folks in ATC here in Hawaii are going to
have to open a new category in their minds.
Anyways, just something I thought you guys might get a chuckle out of.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
20.7 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: paint chip catalogs |
barry pote wrote:
> Anyone out there been able to get paint chip brochures or catalogs from
> any of the major paint companies?
I don't understand what the problem is. Here in NZ, the local paint shop
has hundreds of colour charts which are free to anyone who wants one.
These are mostly intended for people painting their houses inside or
out. However, the guy at the shop said he could mix up auto paint to
match any of the chips. And he did -- it came out an exact match.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "W. Granville Batte" <wgranville.batte(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | test from a newbie |
Test message from a newbie.
G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
I just have to ask, Mike. Where do you go in that RV? Would seem like
after the first week you'd run out of places to go.
I can just hear those controllers: "Hey bra' what's your hurry? Oh. It's
Mike."
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Robertson [mailto:mrobert569(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2001 12:27 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: RV-8A Turbine??
With all this talk lately of engines it reminded me of
something that has
been asked now a couple of times here recently. And these
questions are
without the leg fairings installed yet. I have been asked
twice now if our
little RV-8A is turbine powered because of the climb rate
and how quickly it
accelerates, and approach has had to ask me several times to
slow down
because they thought I was just flying a little aircraft
like the Cessna's,
Aeronca's and such. Obviously, the folks in ATC here in
Hawaii are going to
have to open a new category in their minds.
Anyways, just something I thought you guys might get a
chuckle out of.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
20.7 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet gun help |
>
>My rivet gun is slowly giving up the ghost. Right now I'm trying to decide
>whether to try to fix it or buy a new one. Anyone ever crack one of these
>things open? The problem I'm having with the little devil is that squeezing
>the trigger will only get one half-backed strike. If you ease up pressure
>on the work then the gun will fire off normally but if you resume any kind
>of pressure on your rivets, it gives you one more strike and then just sits
>there hissing. Anyone got a clue 'cause I sure don't.
>
>We're not talking oil cooler doors here. No flame wars now. I know how
>frisky you old codgers can get... :-)
>
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Scott,
Check the archives for denk & rivet & gun. Brian Denk had similar
troubles in Nov 98, and he fixed it with lots of oil. The full story
is a bit longer than that, but his several posts tell it all.
Good luck,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aerobatic C/S prop for sale |
FOR INFO, OFF LIST ONLY
GILTHE1(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ski2001a(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Canopy plexiglass thickness |
List,
I am having a custom canopy made for my -8 and was wondering if anyone has
measured the thickness of the canopy at the very top where it will normally
be the thinnest. The normal starting thickness is 3/16 but after vacuum
forming I would expect this to be .080 to .100 inches at the apex. I have the
option of starting with 1/4 inch material for a little extra noise reduction
as well as strength. The penalty being the extra wt. Any real data will help
me with this decision. Thanks.
Tom Clark 80525
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rpflanze(at)iquest.net |
To my fellow Lister's west of the Mississippi,
I am putting together some loose plans for a trip out West in mid to late June.
I plan to take two weeks off of work and take my 14 year-old son westward,
where ever the weather allows us to go. This will complete one of my goals
which is to go coast to coast in one year. (I will be at Sun-n-Fun in April.)
I'm looking for your help in putting together some "must see" stopping points
along the way. I'd also love to meet some of the great folks on the List that
I've spoken to over the Net, but never met.
The few points I have already include the Grand Canyon, Santa Paula (to visit
my sister), Mt. St. Helen's, Van's, perhaps Leadville, and Mt. Rushmore. I
know that I'll have many more places on my list than I'll be able to see, but
I hope to follow the weather and let the trip develop naturally. I'd also love
to hook up with the SoCal group on one of their weekend flyouts.
Please forward your suggestions to me directly at rpflanze(at)iquest.net. Thanks
for you assistance.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 Indianapolis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
joe wiza wrote:
>
>
> I have an O360 lycoming I have tried a couple of
> mechanical tachs with little success. Has anyone used
> the electronic tach by UMA ($300)which connects to the
> engine drive and electronically sends a signal to a 3
> 1/8" analog instrument.supposed to be within +/-.02%
> appreciate any info. (dont want to connect to the mag
> p leads)
>
> Joe
>
> RV6A 132Hrs
>
Joe
A friend of mine used one with good results it seemed to be
accurate when he checked it against my digital
tack check.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy plexiglass thickness |
Tom -
When I cut my canopy in half for my RV-6 I did not see that there was any
noticable difference in thickness (1/4") from the top to the sides. I know
that the RV-6 canopy is also vacuum formed.
Douglas G. Murray RV-6 C-GRPA
Southern Alberta
> List,
> I am having a custom canopy made for my -8 and was wondering if anyone has
> measured the thickness of the canopy at the very top where it will
normally
> be the thinnest. The normal starting thickness is 3/16 but after vacuum
> forming I would expect this to be .080 to .100 inches at the apex. I have
the
> option of starting with 1/4 inch material for a little extra noise
reduction
> as well as strength. The penalty being the extra wt. Any real data will
help
> me with this decision. Thanks.
>
> Tom Clark 80525
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jay Sewell" <sewell_fw(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | More on Saber Mfg. |
Dear List,
As a few others have posted already, Saber Mfg. (prop extensions, etc.) is
now owned and operated by Sam Tilleman of Granbury, Tx. Lucky me - my hangar
is next to Sam's (which will save on shipping when I'm ready for my
extension!), and I've been really interested in watching him set up shop and
get on with the business at hand. He purchased the business outright,
including an incredible Bridgeport CNC lathe. Judy and Clark have been out
here twice since December to give him a couple of intense week-long training
sessions. As some of you have already discovered, that training has really
paid off in the quality of his extensions. I've been forwarding him the
comments from this list, and he really gets a kick out of reading about his
extensions being "works of art". I have to agree, owing to his eye for
detail and commitment to maintain the same level of quality as Judy has been
providing all these years.
He told me yesterday that he is working on getting his own domain for his
website. The current URL http://www.geocities.com/sabermfg/ will be
available until the new one is assigned. If that website doesn't work after
a week or so from now, you might try http://www.sabermfg.com.
Regards,
Jay Sewell
Ft. Worth, Tx.
RV-6 one wing complete.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Prop extension for sale |
I have a 4 inch extension [ spool ] , 6 inch faces, 3/8 bolts for an 0-320.
New, never used, prop lugs are to be used with a nut. inquire off
line-----------mike RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stuart B McCurdy <sturdy(at)att.net> |
Listers,
I too have been following the thread on low oil temps and oil coolers.
I had the same problem. I used to put a sliding door in front of the
cooler. Small opening for cold weather and large opening for hot
weather. Of course, I had to pull the top cowl off each time I want to
adjust it for a change in OAT. Then I would leave Texas on a 95 degree
day (large opening) for Oshkosh, where it would be 60 degrees. I would
either pull off the top cowl and change the opening, only to have to
change it at my refueling stop on the way back, or just let it run at
160 degrees for a few days.
I finally said enough. I now have an in-flight adjustable system. I
made the door adjustable by putting a pivot point below the opening to
the cooler on the engine side of the baffling. I then ran a control
cable along the back side of the baffling, held by adel clamps, over the
engine mount and through the baffling at the 90 degree bend, and
attached it to the top of the door so that it could slide (swivel) open
and closed in front of the cooler. The other end terminates at the oil
fill door so I can make an educated guess about expected OAT (cold,
warm, hot) before flight. Then I put a ball valve at the back of the
accessory case before the line going to the oil cooler. I then ran a
vernier control cable from the cockpit through the firewall to the lever
on the ball valve. After my guess at the door opening before flight, I
now can use the vernier to restrict the amount of oil going to the
cooler and can nail the oil temp at 190 on every flight. Works for me.
Stu McCurdy
RV-3, 74TX
RV-8, On the gear, attaching tail feathers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trip out West |
>
> To my fellow Lister's west of the Mississippi,
>
> I am putting together some loose plans for a trip out West in mid to
> late June.
> I plan to take two weeks off of work and take my 14 year-old son
> westward,
> where ever the weather allows us to go. This will complete one of my
> goals
> which is to go coast to coast in one year. (I will be at Sun-n-Fun in
> April.)
>
>
> I'm looking for your help in putting together some "must see"
> stopping points
> along the way. I'd also love to meet some of the great folks on the
> List that
> I've spoken to over the Net, but never met.
>
> The few points I have already include the Grand Canyon, Santa Paula
> (to visit
> my sister), Mt. St. Helen's, Van's, perhaps Leadville, and Mt.
> Rushmore. I
> know that I'll have many more places on my list than I'll be able to
> see, but
> I hope to follow the weather and let the trip develop naturally. I'd
> also love
> to hook up with the SoCal group on one of their weekend flyouts.
>
> Please forward your suggestions to me directly at
> rpflanze(at)iquest.net. Thanks
> for you assistance.
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G
> RV-6 Indianapolis
Randy:
Looking forward to seeing you in June.
Merced (MCE) has an antique fly-in June 2-3. The Bakersfield Bunch
(L45)(Harmon Rockets and RV) have a BBQ on Saturday afternoon that will
draw 50+ RVs and Rockets. Not sure if we will make the Longmont, CO
flyout June 22-24. http://www.greeleynet.com/eaaregional/index.htm
The HomeWing also has a fly-in at Scappoose, OR (SPB) sometime in June.
I flew there one year but work did not allow it last year. I love
getting together with the HomeWing.
3 SoCAL RVs, 1 SoCAL Cherokee 6, and 1 Texas RV will be departing
Friday July 13th for Arlington and Alaska.
Check the SoCAL Wing photo album for some ideas on places you may want
to see.
http://members3.clubphoto.com/socal230330/What_the_ground_looks_like_from_the_air/
(You may need to cut and paste this link if it takes up two lines.)
Looking forward to meeting you Randy.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
766+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: another antenna question.... |
>
> I am planning on installing one (or two) of Bob Archers's VOR antennas in
> the wing tips of my RV9. I am confused on which is the one recommended.
> ALso, do I need additional antennas for glide slope and marker beacon or
> will the VOR wingtip antenna do the job? If additional antennas are
> required, can you make a recommendation please.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Kim Nicholas
Bob Archer makes a neat antenna for fiberglass wingtips, you need to specify
left or right wingtip, which covers VOR and glideslope frequencies, although
you will need a little coax splitter near the radios. When I talked to him
a couple weeks ago, he said for marker beacon to simply cut a wire 40" long
(I think, it is in my notebook at work) and put it in the wingtip. Connect
the center coax conductor to it and ground the shield. Not too tough. I
ordered the VOR/GS antenna directly from him.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan & Patty Krueger <pndkrueg(at)gulfsurf.infi.net> |
TwoFeathersRV6(at)AOL.COM wrote:
> Anybody have an easy method to slide scat tubing
> on the appropriate flanges.
A coating of AQUA GEL II on the flange will make the job almost
bearable. It is a water base compound used for lubricating utility
cables so the can be pulled thru conduit. Can be purchased at any
electical wholesaler in small cheap quantities.
Dan Krueger
-6A Happy with my bent whip - thanks to those who helped
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
I had no success with the mag driven tach but my new generator based one at
least moves around when throttle is moved.
This has a little generator that is driven by the mechanical tack drive
point on the engine. I don't know what kind of signal it sends the gauge.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
>Has anyone used
> the electronic tach by UMA ($300)which connects to the
> engine drive and electronically sends a signal to a 3
> 1/8" analog instrument.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Hey Randy,
Sounds like a fun trip. Key places to hit kinda depend on what you like to do.
Bum around at air museum? Touristy stuff like Disneyland? Camping or hotel?
There's always Vegas....That could cost you some gas money and teach your son what
to stay away from....but then again, might teach him something you don't want
him to know....
If your cruising to the Grand Canyon, I'd go by way of Monument Valley. Pretty
country. If your going to Leadville, you might go to Death Valley, (highest
and lowest, but not much there).
The Pima Air Muesuem in Tucson (might be out of your way) has a interesting outdoor
exhibit, as does Castle AFB (you can fly in) near Merced, CA.
If your camping out of the airplane, Columbia has a nice airport campsite (with
showers) about 1/2 mile from a restored mining town at the base of the Sierras
in CA. It's also relatively close to Yosemite, which is pretty from the air
(try to be conscience of the noise you make as it really echoes in the valley).
I was at Oceano for the first time yesterday, and they had a campground on
the airport, which is about 1/2 mile from the beach and town.
Harris Ranch is a great place to stop for lunch if your flying up the CA central
valley. Great beef grown right there.
I live about 30 miles from Santa Paula, try to make it on the first Sunday of the
month, as everybody and opens the hangar doors and brings out their airplanes
to show off (and qualify for property tax relief on the airplane). I was there
yesterday with the RV (they barely tolerate us homebuilders at antique mecca
;-) Tracy Saylor is based out of Santa Paula if you want to see the worlds
fastest 0-360 powered RV-6.
You can join up with the SoCAL group and they'll treat you good. I'd like to meet
up with you but I'll be out of town on a work assignment around that time,
but there are many around, like Gary Sobek and Paul Rosales that will be glad
to fly you somewhere local and fun, like Big Bear or somewhere else interesting,
maybe down San Diego way. Probably get my dad to drag out N515L to go with
you. (I told him he has to keep it flying while I'm away on business;-) Tough
duty.
That's some of the places in the Southwest that I can think of off the top of my
head. I'm sure someone can help with the other parts of the country.
Let me know if I can help somehow.
Laird RV-6
Simi Valley CA
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Mon, Feb 5, 2001 7:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: Trip out West
To my fellow Lister's west of the Mississippi,
I am putting together some loose plans for a trip out West in mid to late June.
I plan to take two weeks off of work and take my 14 year-old son westward,
where ever the weather allows us to go. This will complete one of my goals
which is to go coast to coast in one year. (I will be at Sun-n-Fun in April.)
I'm looking for your help in putting together some "must see" stopping points
along the way. I'd also love to meet some of the great folks on the List that
I've spoken to over the Net, but never met.
The few points I have already include the Grand Canyon, Santa Paula (to visit
my sister), Mt. St. Helen's, Van's, perhaps Leadville, and Mt. Rushmore. I
know that I'll have many more places on my list than I'll be able to see, but
I hope to follow the weather and let the trip develop naturally. I'd also love
to hook up with the SoCal group on one of their weekend flyouts.
Please forward your suggestions to me directly at rpflanze(at)iquest.net. Thanks
for you assistance.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 Indianapolis
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trip out West |
Randy,
Perfect timing, you can attend the 10th Annual Northwest RV Fly-in put on by
the Home Wing of Van's Air Force. We usually have 60-80 RVs with formation
fly-bys by the Blackjack Squadron and full participation of Van's Aircraft
(demo planes etc.). See www.edt.com/homewing/activities.html for further
info. This year it will be June 16th.
See you there,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, hopefully flying by then, to be known as N558RL
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
>
> To my fellow Lister's west of the Mississippi,
>
> I am putting together some loose plans for a trip out West in mid to late
June.
> I plan to take two weeks off of work and take my 14 year-old son
westward,
> where ever the weather allows us to go. This will complete one of my
goals
> which is to go coast to coast in one year. (I will be at Sun-n-Fun in
April.)
>
>
> I'm looking for your help in putting together some "must see" stopping
points
> along the way. I'd also love to meet some of the great folks on the List
that
> I've spoken to over the Net, but never met.
>
> The few points I have already include the Grand Canyon, Santa Paula (to
visit
> my sister), Mt. St. Helen's, Van's, perhaps Leadville, and Mt. Rushmore.
I
> know that I'll have many more places on my list than I'll be able to see,
but
> I hope to follow the weather and let the trip develop naturally. I'd also
love
> to hook up with the SoCal group on one of their weekend flyouts.
>
> Please forward your suggestions to me directly at rpflanze(at)iquest.net.
Thanks
> for you assistance.
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G
> RV-6 Indianapolis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com> |
my email address has changed from marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com
to VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com
the old address is no longer active.
Marcel de Ruiter
RV4/G-RVMJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
TwoFeathersRV6(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Anybody have an easy method to slide scat tubing
> on the appropriate flanges. Some flanges fit tight
> and some fit ! @$%&*#) tight. 'Scuse the language.
>
>
The wire core must be removed from the end to slide over the flanges.
Cut about two turns of the wire from the inside of the end and bend
inwards the cut end so it wont poke through the fabric of the tube.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Hal,
How is Valentine doing? A short progress report would be great.
See you at 338 next meeting.
Garry "6" Finishing (actualy stopped to build paint spray booth)
kempthornes wrote:
>
> I had no success with the mag driven tach but my new generator based one at
> least moves around when throttle is moved.
>
> This has a little generator that is driven by the mechanical tack drive
> point on the engine. I don't know what kind of signal it sends the gauge.
>
> Hal Kempthorne
> RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
>
> >Has anyone used
> > the electronic tach by UMA ($300)which connects to the
> > engine drive and electronically sends a signal to a 3
> > 1/8" analog instrument.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 2/5/01 6:13:45 PM Pacific Standard Time,
jsflyrv(at)teleport.com writes:
>
> joe wiza wrote:
> >
> >
> > I have an O360 lycoming I have tried a couple of
> > mechanical tachs with little success. Has anyone used
> > the electronic tach by UMA ($300)which connects to the
> > engine drive and electronically sends a signal to a 3
> > 1/8" analog instrument.supposed to be within +/-.02%
> > appreciate any info. (dont want to connect to the mag
> > p leads)
> >
> > Joe
>
Hey Joe, I installed one in my RV4 that has a IO-360A1B. It works great!. I
would recomend them for any applacation.
Tim Barnes
N39TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 2/6/01 8:56:26 AM Pacific Standard Time,
MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM writes:
>
> In a message dated 2/5/01 6:13:45 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> jsflyrv(at)teleport.com writes:
>
>
> >
> > joe wiza wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > I have an O360 lycoming I have tried a couple of
> > > mechanical tachs with little success. Has anyone used
> > > the electronic tach by UMA ($300)which connects to the
> > > engine drive and electronically sends a signal to a 3
> > > 1/8" analog instrument.supposed to be within +/-.02%
> > > appreciate any info. (dont want to connect to the mag
> > > p leads)
> > >
> > > Joe
> >
>
> Hey Joe, I installed one in my RV4 that has a IO-360A1B. It works great!.
> I
> would recomend them for any applacation.
>
The Model Number of the UMA Tach that I am talking about is the UMA
19-501-10
(Chief Aircraft Catalog)
> Tim Barnes
> N39TB
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Browne" <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6A Project for Sale |
RV-6A slider on gear with O-360 A1A 0 SMOH. Could be finished in a few
hundred hours. Everything is there except prop, com radio, and emp
fairing.
Contact me offlist for details and pix.
Chris Browne
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wheel Installation Help |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
writes:
>
> I am trying to install the wheels on my RV-4 landing gear legs.
> I was under the impression that the wheel bearings should be a slip fit
> over the axle. My wheels' bearings are an interference fit. I feel
they
> will go on with some reasonable tapping with a soft mallet, but is this
normal?
> I want to be able to remove the wheels easily if I ever have to change
a
> tire in the field. Also, I have tried sanding the axle with emery
paper,
> but this hasn't helped. Any ideas?
>
> Ted Lumpkin
###################
Ted , you are riight.
Stay with the sandpaper & you may mic the OD to find you highs.
once I got them down where the brake flange would slip on, the bearings
would go on easy.
Don Jordan RV6A Arlington, Tx
*****************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tails Pump: Pacer(sp) Was Right! |
| From: | Gary Graham <beeb(at)teleport.com> |
To those of you who want better air flow through (hot and cold) the cockpit
with smaller systems providing you with greater comfort, you need to stop
the battle of inlet air coming from the front of the plane(your design) with
that coming from the tail (and to some extent from the wings, rear canopy
skirt, flap rod holes, etc.). The RV-4 tail PUMPS!!! and I suspect that the
other designs do also. You can mitigate this problem as many s-cans have (
or use the tail as a source of pressure air).
I learned of this issue from books and followed up with empirical methods.
After 35hrs. in the back of an RV-4, X-country, that had a single hole in
the fire wall (no hoses in cockpit) providing heat evenly to the cockpit
(front and back) I wanted to know how it worked so well. Because other RV's
didn't, including mine. Sleeping under the wing, I spotted a hole in the
belly that turned out to be one of those plastic NACA Ducts BACKWORDS. WAS
this it? I wasn't about to cut up my bird to find out. The owner had
purchased the RV-4 and had no idea why it was there. He thought it was part
of the design (no hoses to it).
Here is how I got my air conditioning GRINN: RV-4 Fastback
To stop cold air from coming in an freezing certain body parts:
1. I sewed up some boots for the aileron push tubes from light weight
synthetic leather(garment from the GoodWill).
2. Sealed the canopy to canopy rails with "P-Strip" from Van's.
Sealed the front of the canopy to the cowl boot with the silicone
pressed into plastic wrap.
Sealed the front right corner of the canopy to canopy rail with a piece
of foam wedge.
Covered the flap arms with a shaped aluminum panel (this was for safety
also).
No problem with rear skirts because I don't have them. No stick boots
either but maybe one day. The lack of stick boots does allow for air
flow under the floorboards but I'm not sure that this is an advantage.
All of this sealing got a HALF GRINN.
My source of fresh air is a 7/8" hole in the left wing root fairing, plumbed
with 1" hose to a dash mounted Wemac(sp) ball. My source of hot air is
standard through a 1.5" valve on the center of the firewall (Lancair) In
the future I will be adding some general purpose cooling air near the ruder
pedals with a valve. Right now I am bypassing the heat exchanger in the
summer.
Before I made the full grin changes, this is what happened. I would open
my air conditioning valves and would receive a blast of air that would then
diminish as the cockpit would pressurize. The fight was on between the
front air and the tail air. The front lines were at the cockpit. Without
stick boots I have plenty of openings front to back under the floor boards.
With stick boots I would have to open a 2" (min.) hole in the baggage
compartment. The RV-4 has enough of a leak around the back seat to the
baggage compartment.
You may remember that I proved the tail pumping theory by providing a 1/4"
stream of 100LL down the belly where it proceeded to spice up my day(see
"There I was at 10,000 feet" in the RV Archives). The good and the bad of
tail pumping.
Full GRINN Time:
Improving cockpit air flow:
1. Remember that I didn't want to cut a reverse NACA Duct in my RV's
belly? It so happens that I have an inspection plate forward of the first
tail bulkheads(this was to get at the bolts that hold my tail on(first
generation mod. to equal second gen. strength). I made up a second cover
plate, cut an 1 1/4" hole in it and made a fiberglass cover for the hole
that looks like a rounded over half of a jar lid. Think of it as a reverse
scoop(idea stolen from a British Auster antique that a friend wins prizes
with). The trailing edge of this device is 1/2" and the purpose is to
create a low pressure area over the hole. I haven't sewn a boot for the
elevator push tube at that first tail bulkhead yet, but I moved the battle
front back to the tail. I have so much hot air that I can't open the valve
but a crack. BIG GRINN
2. Seal the tail off with a boot and put a reverse something forward of it
on the belly or wherever. My proof of concept part is just under the
leading edge of the left horz. stab. (remember that it is also an inspection
cover).
Warm in the NW
Gary Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bert murillo <bertrv6(at)yahoo.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Flamini" <flamini2(at)home.com> |
, , ,
, , ,
, , ,
"Carlson, Bob" ,
"Chisholm, Dick, Madge" , ,
, ,
"Wilson, Steve, Barb" , "Kunes, Terry"
| Subject: | Tip of the arrow from www.alpa.org |
The Tip of the Arrow
Air Line Pilot, February 2001, p. 30
By Chris Dodd, Staff Writer
An accident is often said to be the result of an unbroken chain of
events. If something breaks the link, disaster is averted. Rarely do
pilots get to stand at the edge of the abyss, peer over, and step back,
the chain broken at the last moment. It can be a powerful learning
experience.
As a fairly new captain for my airline, I was scheduled to take the
twin-jet Fokker F-28 to one of our smallest stations-Worcester, Mass.-in
the middle of January. Worcester Regional Airport, which is not blessed
with overly long runways or impressive facilities, also has the worst
weather in the region, especially in winter.
As I talked to the flight dispatcher about conditions at our
destination, he assured me that although snow had been falling heavily,
the plows were keeping the runway clear. The previous company flight,
another F-28, had reported braking action fair, well within our
operating limitations.
The wind was from the west at 15 knots, which ruled out the ILS 11
approach, the obvious choice. But the dispatcher helpfully added that
the NDB Runway 29 was available, with the weather just above minimums.
I wasn't too enthusiastic about that idea. Domestic airline jet crews
almost never have to fly an ADF approach in the real world, and the two
or three a year practiced in the simulator never feel like enough. His
parting advice, "It wouldn't hurt to go take a look," was amusing,
because at some critical point "taking a look" becomes either a landing
or a diversion, and guess whose decision that would be? Thanking him, I
hung up and returned to the airplane.
I found the first officer, relaxing in the passenger cabin, and briefed
him
on the situation. Like any captain using his best crew resource
management training, I wanted his opinion.
Dave was a conservative, thoughtful airman, and he felt that while
conditions were less than ideal, he couldn't think of any real reason
why we shouldn't launch.
I agreed, but remembered my main concern-the Dutch-built F-28 was the
only jet transport this side of the Iron Curtain not equipped with
thrust reversers. Short of throwing out an anchor, the only way to stop
the airplane was by using its wheel brakes.
The flight to Worcester was uneventful, with the usual light-to-moderate
chop present in a Northeast low-pressure system. Listening to the ATIS
during the descent, Dave relayed the first piece of interesting news-the
NDB was out of service. On questioning the approach controller, we
learned that it had been OTS for 3 weeks-a fact somehow unknown to our
dispatcher. The other big news was that the wind was now 290 degrees at
10 knots, exactly at limits for landing on Runway 11.
Mulling over this turn of events, I asked for the latest braking action
report. The man in the dark room said that an ATR commuter reported fair
to good, and the runway had been plowed within the hour. The small-town
nature of our destination became apparent when he casually added that an
airport authority pickup truck had just finished a mad dash down the
runway, weighing in with a report of "good friction." The weather was
holding at a 500-foot ceiling, with 4 miles visibility in light snow.
Airline pilots are paid for days like this, and if the captain turned
down every less-than-ideal situation, schedules would become a joke, and
needlessly so. Taking into account that I had yet to hear the words
"poor" or "nil" regarding braking action, I decided to shoot the ILS 11.
During my briefing for the approach, I told Dave that, assuming good
visibility on breaking out, I would drop one dot low on the glideslope
to ensure touchdown well before the 1,000-foot mark; no sense wasting
runway on a day like this. On touchdown and autospoiler extension, I
would use maximum braking, and if it didn't feel right, I would pour on
the coal and perform the maneuver known as getting the hell out of
there. The Rolls-Royce Spey could spool up from idle to takeoff thrust
much more quickly than most jet engines, and this was the procedure in
our flight manual for landing on snow- and ice-covered runways.
As we slid down the ILS, everything was routine, except for needing less
power than usual to hold the glideslope because of the tailwind. We
broke out at 500 feet, and the runway appeared dead ahead. I announced
that I was going one dot low. Dave got a final wind check from the
tower, 290 at nine; 1 knot to spare. Crossing the threshold right on
speed, I made a low flare, landing about 500 feet from the near end of
the 7,000-foot-long runway. The spoilers deployed immediately, and when
the nosewheel touched down, I applied maximum braking.
We slowed very nicely at first, now committed to a full stop, and then
the games began. Suddenly we were no longer decelerating. The change was
so abrupt that it felt like taking off. Too late for a go-around, we had
run into an ice-covered part of the runway with all the friction of a
skating rink. At 90 knots, the Fokker began to slide sideways, and I
fought to regain control by releasing the brakes and holding full right
rudder. After a few moments, which seemed much longer, we straightened
up, and I applied brakes again, desperately hoping the anti-skid system
would start to work.
I have heard from pilots involved in accidents that everything moves
like a slow-motion dream, and they are right. I found time to reflect
about the lack of reverse thrust, and what a stupid place that is to
save a few bucks. I also remembered the steep drop-off and rugged
terrain waiting past the end of the runway. An accident resulting in a
broken airplane and serious injuries or worse would not be a
career-enhancing event. All these thoughts drifted through my mind as I
heard myself tell Dave to shut down the left engine-at this point we
hardly needed its 400 pounds of idle thrust.
The end of the runway was coming up fast, and we were barely slowing.
Passing the intersection of Runway 33, I was on the verge of
shutting down the right engine as well, when suddenly we were past the
ice. The anti-skid took hold, cycling the brakes as we quickly slowed in
the last 1,000 feet. Snow was falling again as I very slowly taxied to
the gate, the tarmac so slick the nosewheel slid in the turns.
In a droll manner that made me envious, Dave reported to the tower that
the runway "reports" left a lot to be desired, with braking action nil
on at least half the runway's length.
We sat in stony silence as the jetway pulled up, and the 70 passengers
deplaned without a single comment. Even the flight attendants apparently
did not realize how close we had come to being a headline.
Finally, I turned to Dave and said I was going to inform the dispatcher
that we were not taking off until spring. I was joking, but part of me
felt that way.
During the postmortem, I discovered a few interesting sins of omission
and one of commission-by me. If we had known the ADF approach was OTS,
we couldn't have departed in the first place, since the tailwind made
the ILS illegal. The company had the information about the NDB; some
electronic gremlin kept us from getting it on our paperwork. Once in the
Worcester area, the wind subsided, luring us into a tailwind landing on
an ice-covered runway.
Another critical piece of information that we didn't get was that the
ATR braking action report was nearly 3 hours old! Besides, I should have
disregarded a braking action report from a truck-stopping a 70,000 pound
jet and a pickup being considerably different.
But the fact remained that I had decided to land with a barely legal
tailwind. I'm sure the Feds would have jumped immediately on that, and
the fact that runway conditions were drastically worse than advertised
would have made a nice footnote in the accident report. The accident
chain was broken by a quirk of nature that allowed less ice to form on
the last portion of the runway. Except for that, I would probably be in
another line of work.
When citing pilot error as a probable or contributing cause of an
accident, the NTSB often manages to miss the process that went into
making a mistake, as if judgment and decision-making exist in a vacuum.
In a tradition dating to sailing ships, we are held accountable for our
decisions. Any other way would erode the power we have as pilots to make
judgments based on the best available information. But in an imperfect
world, that information can sometimes be very wrong. Ernest K. Gann
wrote that the pilot is at the tip of the arrow, which is something to
remember as we go about our flying business, in airplanes big and small.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bert murillo <bertrv6(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi:
I hope this is not an stupid question; Recently
I went to see a friend who had received his finishing
kit.
Looking at the canopy frame, gave me the impression
that his was of a larger diameter, and also a higher
and more straign arc? line?
Are there different types of canopy frames, for
the rv6a, which is what I have?
I would like that type better, it seems to
give you more head room, and the lines are better..
But is this my imagination, only?
I definetely will take mine to his shop, to see
with my own eyes...
Maybe I been working to hard in my shop, and
need to go out in the sun more often...
If any one has a comment, not for my state of
mind please...
Happy building
Bert rv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Flamini" <flamini2(at)home.com> |
Fred are you on this list? How are your RV's? Going to Sun N Fun? Dennis
RV-10 Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Flamini" <flamini2(at)home.com> |
i knew Van would be coming out with an RV-10 so i put big letters on my
Wittman Tailwind hoping he will buy the rights to the name for $100,000!
Dennis N564DF race # 53 Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy frame |
> Are there different types of canopy frames, for
> the rv6a, which is what I have?
There is only one frame for the slider. There is a different one for
the tip-up.
It sounds like you are referring to the slider, and from my reading and
own experience the frames, while supposedly the same, seem to have a
lot of variance to them.
I can't imagine the supplier not using a jig to weld those things up,
but the stories you hear about fit make you think each one is done free
hand!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Panel
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TAZKBOYKIN(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Project for Sale |
Have you sold the RV-6a, if not what are you asking for it?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Project for Sale |
Hello,
The RV6-6A kit is not sold as yet.
As stated at the bottom of the add the asking price is $15000,00 USD, I am
considering all reasonable offers.
Thanks,
Jim, in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: <TAZKBOYKIN(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2001 9:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6A Project for Sale
>
> Have you sold the RV-6a, if not what are you asking for it?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Model RV-6, or "Can't wait to start building". |
Some of you might be interested in this:
http://rv6.homestead.com/files/rvstory.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mell" <kitplane(at)tradezone.com> |
| Subject: | RV Panel layout and center console (pics) |
Got some shots of a great RV panel layout this weekend. It is well thought
out and has lot's of goodies. The Skyforce is mounted in a great location.
Also, the layout of the center console is worthy of note. If you are
thinking about how to lay out your circuit breakers there is a good shot of
that too. :)
Here is the link to the photos:
http://www.kitplaneforum.com/ubb/Forum13/HTML/000007.html
Or just go to the RV section on the kitplanefourm.com
Mell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Murphy <jgmurphy(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | US Industrial tool Supply Co Squeezer |
Folks
Anybody had first hand experience of the US Industrial Tool & Supply Co
hand squeezer Model TP888-2 ??
Thanks
Graham M
RV6 empennage,& control surfaces, and planting Olive trees,
Blenheim New Zealand.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Van's wiring kit |
Hey listers:
My wings will arrive this week, and it's time for me to begin some planning
for wiring the things. Has anyone used the wiring kits that Van sells? Are
they worth the cost of admission? Do they help reduce the confusion? Do they
have the selection of parts that I really need to begin this job?
Wiring is one of those areas that I know little enough about that I figure a
kit may at least get me started in the right direction! I'm also half-way
through 'Lectric Bob's book, and feeling better about wiring with each page I
read.
Ed Winne
9-A empennage almost complete. 72 build hours so far.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Flamini" <flamini2(at)home.com> |
, , ,
, , ,
, , ,
"Carlson, Bob" ,
"Chisholm, Dick, Madge" , ,
, ,
"Wilson, Steve, Barb" , "Kunes, Terry"
| Subject: | Tip of the arrow from www.alpa.org |
The Tip of the Arrow
Air Line Pilot, February 2001, p. 30
By Chris Dodd, Staff Writer
An accident is often said to be the result of an unbroken chain of
events. If something breaks the link, disaster is averted. Rarely do
pilots get to stand at the edge of the abyss, peer over, and step back,
the chain broken at the last moment. It can be a powerful learning
experience.
As a fairly new captain for my airline, I was scheduled to take the
twin-jet Fokker F-28 to one of our smallest stations-Worcester, Mass.-in
the middle of January. Worcester Regional Airport, which is not blessed
with overly long runways or impressive facilities, also has the worst
weather in the region, especially in winter.
As I talked to the flight dispatcher about conditions at our
destination, he assured me that although snow had been falling heavily,
the plows were keeping the runway clear. The previous company flight,
another F-28, had reported braking action fair, well within our
operating limitations.
The wind was from the west at 15 knots, which ruled out the ILS 11
approach, the obvious choice. But the dispatcher helpfully added that
the NDB Runway 29 was available, with the weather just above minimums.
I wasn't too enthusiastic about that idea. Domestic airline jet crews
almost never have to fly an ADF approach in the real world, and the two
or three a year practiced in the simulator never feel like enough. His
parting advice, "It wouldn't hurt to go take a look," was amusing,
because at some critical point "taking a look" becomes either a landing
or a diversion, and guess whose decision that would be? Thanking him, I
hung up and returned to the airplane.
I found the first officer, relaxing in the passenger cabin, and briefed
him
on the situation. Like any captain using his best crew resource
management training, I wanted his opinion.
Dave was a conservative, thoughtful airman, and he felt that while
conditions were less than ideal, he couldn't think of any real reason
why we shouldn't launch.
I agreed, but remembered my main concern-the Dutch-built F-28 was the
only jet transport this side of the Iron Curtain not equipped with
thrust reversers. Short of throwing out an anchor, the only way to stop
the airplane was by using its wheel brakes.
The flight to Worcester was uneventful, with the usual light-to-moderate
chop present in a Northeast low-pressure system. Listening to the ATIS
during the descent, Dave relayed the first piece of interesting news-the
NDB was out of service. On questioning the approach controller, we
learned that it had been OTS for 3 weeks-a fact somehow unknown to our
dispatcher. The other big news was that the wind was now 290 degrees at
10 knots, exactly at limits for landing on Runway 11.
Mulling over this turn of events, I asked for the latest braking action
report. The man in the dark room said that an ATR commuter reported fair
to good, and the runway had been plowed within the hour. The small-town
nature of our destination became apparent when he casually added that an
airport authority pickup truck had just finished a mad dash down the
runway, weighing in with a report of "good friction." The weather was
holding at a 500-foot ceiling, with 4 miles visibility in light snow.
Airline pilots are paid for days like this, and if the captain turned
down every less-than-ideal situation, schedules would become a joke, and
needlessly so. Taking into account that I had yet to hear the words
"poor" or "nil" regarding braking action, I decided to shoot the ILS 11.
During my briefing for the approach, I told Dave that, assuming good
visibility on breaking out, I would drop one dot low on the glideslope
to ensure touchdown well before the 1,000-foot mark; no sense wasting
runway on a day like this. On touchdown and autospoiler extension, I
would use maximum braking, and if it didn't feel right, I would pour on
the coal and perform the maneuver known as getting the hell out of
there. The Rolls-Royce Spey could spool up from idle to takeoff thrust
much more quickly than most jet engines, and this was the procedure in
our flight manual for landing on snow- and ice-covered runways.
As we slid down the ILS, everything was routine, except for needing less
power than usual to hold the glideslope because of the tailwind. We
broke out at 500 feet, and the runway appeared dead ahead. I announced
that I was going one dot low. Dave got a final wind check from the
tower, 290 at nine; 1 knot to spare. Crossing the threshold right on
speed, I made a low flare, landing about 500 feet from the near end of
the 7,000-foot-long runway. The spoilers deployed immediately, and when
the nosewheel touched down, I applied maximum braking.
We slowed very nicely at first, now committed to a full stop, and then
the games began. Suddenly we were no longer decelerating. The change was
so abrupt that it felt like taking off. Too late for a go-around, we had
run into an ice-covered part of the runway with all the friction of a
skating rink. At 90 knots, the Fokker began to slide sideways, and I
fought to regain control by releasing the brakes and holding full right
rudder. After a few moments, which seemed much longer, we straightened
up, and I applied brakes again, desperately hoping the anti-skid system
would start to work.
I have heard from pilots involved in accidents that everything moves
like a slow-motion dream, and they are right. I found time to reflect
about the lack of reverse thrust, and what a stupid place that is to
save a few bucks. I also remembered the steep drop-off and rugged
terrain waiting past the end of the runway. An accident resulting in a
broken airplane and serious injuries or worse would not be a
career-enhancing event. All these thoughts drifted through my mind as I
heard myself tell Dave to shut down the left engine-at this point we
hardly needed its 400 pounds of idle thrust.
The end of the runway was coming up fast, and we were barely slowing.
Passing the intersection of Runway 33, I was on the verge of
shutting down the right engine as well, when suddenly we were past the
ice. The anti-skid took hold, cycling the brakes as we quickly slowed in
the last 1,000 feet. Snow was falling again as I very slowly taxied to
the gate, the tarmac so slick the nosewheel slid in the turns.
In a droll manner that made me envious, Dave reported to the tower that
the runway "reports" left a lot to be desired, with braking action nil
on at least half the runway's length.
We sat in stony silence as the jetway pulled up, and the 70 passengers
deplaned without a single comment. Even the flight attendants apparently
did not realize how close we had come to being a headline.
Finally, I turned to Dave and said I was going to inform the dispatcher
that we were not taking off until spring. I was joking, but part of me
felt that way.
During the postmortem, I discovered a few interesting sins of omission
and one of commission-by me. If we had known the ADF approach was OTS,
we couldn't have departed in the first place, since the tailwind made
the ILS illegal. The company had the information about the NDB; some
electronic gremlin kept us from getting it on our paperwork. Once in the
Worcester area, the wind subsided, luring us into a tailwind landing on
an ice-covered runway.
Another critical piece of information that we didn't get was that the
ATR braking action report was nearly 3 hours old! Besides, I should have
disregarded a braking action report from a truck-stopping a 70,000 pound
jet and a pickup being considerably different.
But the fact remained that I had decided to land with a barely legal
tailwind. I'm sure the Feds would have jumped immediately on that, and
the fact that runway conditions were drastically worse than advertised
would have made a nice footnote in the accident report. The accident
chain was broken by a quirk of nature that allowed less ice to form on
the last portion of the runway. Except for that, I would probably be in
another line of work.
When citing pilot error as a probable or contributing cause of an
accident, the NTSB often manages to miss the process that went into
making a mistake, as if judgment and decision-making exist in a vacuum.
In a tradition dating to sailing ships, we are held accountable for our
decisions. Any other way would erode the power we have as pilots to make
judgments based on the best available information. But in an imperfect
world, that information can sometimes be very wrong. Ernest K. Gann
wrote that the pilot is at the tip of the arrow, which is something to
remember as we go about our flying business, in airplanes big and small.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's wiring kit |
Ed,
I bought the combination strobe and nav light (wing & tail) kit from Van's.
It came with 60' of wire which I assume will power both the strobes and the
nav lights. I assume I will have to obtain my own wiring for the landing
lights. Good luck.
Jim Bower
St. Louis
RV-6A
Wings
>From: Ewinne(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Van's wiring kit
>Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 05:46:53 EST
>
>
>Hey listers:
>
>My wings will arrive this week, and it's time for me to begin some planning
>for wiring the things. Has anyone used the wiring kits that Van sells? Are
>they worth the cost of admission? Do they help reduce the confusion? Do
>they
>have the selection of parts that I really need to begin this job?
>
>Wiring is one of those areas that I know little enough about that I figure
>a
>kit may at least get me started in the right direction! I'm also half-way
>through 'Lectric Bob's book, and feeling better about wiring with each page
>I
>read.
>
>Ed Winne
>9-A empennage almost complete. 72 build hours so far.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: US Industrial tool Supply Co Squeezer |
Graham, I have a U.S. I. hand squeezer. I don't remember which model. It is
pretty light duty and really isn't suitable for setting 1/8" rivets, in my
opinion. I only use it to dimple and to set some of the 3/32" rivets in my
tail. I've since riveted about every thing with the rivet gun and bucking
bar - you have to learn how anyway so go ahead and start early. Another
builder ended up welding the roll pins in his because there is too much
movement.
I'd go with Avery's if I was doing it again. You can always sell it later.
Oh, and buy a pneumatic squeezer if you have the funds. I have one from The
Yard Store that is used, but works great!.
Marty in Brentwood TN Working on Fuselage and building hangers.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graham Murphy" <jgmurphy(at)xtra.co.nz>
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 3:54 AM
Subject: RV-List: US Industrial tool Supply Co Squeezer
>
> Folks
> Anybody had first hand experience of the US Industrial Tool & Supply Co
> hand squeezer Model TP888-2 ??
> Thanks
>
> Graham M
> RV6 empennage,& control surfaces, and planting Olive trees,
> Blenheim New Zealand.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
02/07/2001 09:05:25 AM
Was ....."Tails Pump: Pacer(sp) Was Right!"......??
I did the same thing only used the round aluminum vent thingies you get at
the hardware store that come in different sizes. They are used to vent
basements, cellers and crawlspaces. They resemble little louvers so you
install them in the walls, above ground grade with the louvers pointed
down. I installed large ones (2.5 inch) louvered aluminum ones in my wing
inspection pannels with the louvers pointed aft. Did the same thing with a
smaller louver on my tailpost inspection plate. When primed and painted and
installed you can't see them and add a custom look. I donot have any
in-rush air from my aireron tubes area, so I think I do without the
bellows. I likewise installed very little louvers in my rear seat bulkhead
(RV-4) area to flow the air toward the tail. Like the prior poster stated
there is some natural air flow here due to the way the seat back is
made.......It only took a second to drill the .75 inch hole with the unibit
and install the three little vents. The vents weigh nothing. No scientific
study here. Works very well. I just reasoned that I needed somewhere for
the blast air I was directing into my cabin to go...... I also reasoned
that if this was a big $%
*)#@ mistake, the inspection plates could be
re-done and my little experiment would show no lasting scars.
Gary Graham
To: Rocket List ,
RV List
Sent by:
owner-rv-list-server@mat cc:
ronics.com Subject: RV-List: Tails
Pump: Pacer(sp) Was Right!
02/06/2001 06:32 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
To those of you who want better air flow through (hot and cold) the cockpit
with smaller systems providing you with greater comfort, you need to stop
the battle of inlet air coming from the front of the plane(your design)
with
that coming from the tail (and to some extent from the wings, rear canopy
skirt, flap rod holes, etc.). The RV-4 tail PUMPS!!! and I suspect that
the
other designs do also. You can mitigate this problem as many s-cans have (
or use the tail as a source of pressure air).
I learned of this issue from books and followed up with empirical methods.
After 35hrs. in the back of an RV-4, X-country, that had a single hole in
the fire wall (no hoses in cockpit) providing heat evenly to the cockpit
(front and back) I wanted to know how it worked so well. Because other
RV's
didn't, including mine. Sleeping under the wing, I spotted a hole in the
belly that turned out to be one of those plastic NACA Ducts BACKWORDS. WAS
this it? I wasn't about to cut up my bird to find out. The owner had
purchased the RV-4 and had no idea why it was there. He thought it was
part
of the design (no hoses to it).
Here is how I got my air conditioning GRINN: RV-4 Fastback
To stop cold air from coming in an freezing certain body parts:
1. I sewed up some boots for the aileron push tubes from light weight
synthetic leather(garment from the GoodWill).
2. Sealed the canopy to canopy rails with "P-Strip" from Van's.
Sealed the front of the canopy to the cowl boot with the silicone
pressed into plastic wrap.
Sealed the front right corner of the canopy to canopy rail with a piece
of foam wedge.
Covered the flap arms with a shaped aluminum panel (this was for safety
also).
No problem with rear skirts because I don't have them. No stick boots
either but maybe one day. The lack of stick boots does allow for air
flow under the floorboards but I'm not sure that this is an advantage.
All of this sealing got a HALF GRINN.
My source of fresh air is a 7/8" hole in the left wing root fairing,
plumbed
with 1" hose to a dash mounted Wemac(sp) ball. My source of hot air is
standard through a 1.5" valve on the center of the firewall (Lancair) In
the future I will be adding some general purpose cooling air near the ruder
pedals with a valve. Right now I am bypassing the heat exchanger in the
summer.
Before I made the full grin changes, this is what happened. I would open
my air conditioning valves and would receive a blast of air that would then
diminish as the cockpit would pressurize. The fight was on between the
front air and the tail air. The front lines were at the cockpit. Without
stick boots I have plenty of openings front to back under the floor boards.
With stick boots I would have to open a 2" (min.) hole in the baggage
compartment. The RV-4 has enough of a leak around the back seat to the
baggage compartment.
You may remember that I proved the tail pumping theory by providing a 1/4"
stream of 100LL down the belly where it proceeded to spice up my day(see
"There I was at 10,000 feet" in the RV Archives). The good and the bad of
tail pumping.
Full GRINN Time:
Improving cockpit air flow:
1. Remember that I didn't want to cut a reverse NACA Duct in my RV's
belly? It so happens that I have an inspection plate forward of the first
tail bulkheads(this was to get at the bolts that hold my tail on(first
generation mod. to equal second gen. strength). I made up a second cover
plate, cut an 1 1/4" hole in it and made a fiberglass cover for the hole
that looks like a rounded over half of a jar lid. Think of it as a reverse
scoop(idea stolen from a British Auster antique that a friend wins prizes
with). The trailing edge of this device is 1/2" and the purpose is to
create a low pressure area over the hole. I haven't sewn a boot for the
elevator push tube at that first tail bulkhead yet, but I moved the battle
front back to the tail. I have so much hot air that I can't open the valve
but a crack. BIG GRINN
2. Seal the tail off with a boot and put a reverse something forward of
it
on the belly or wherever. My proof of concept part is just under the
leading edge of the left horz. stab. (remember that it is also an
inspection
cover).
Warm in the NW
Gary Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: another antenna question.... |
>The marker antenna is a separate item that goes under the
> belly - I suggest you take a look at ACS and other catalogs.
I put the VOR-GS antenna in one wing tip and the MBR (marker) in the other.
One is four short strips of thin aluminum the other a copper wire.
I haven't tested but everyone says it works!
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Canopy question |
Okay RV-4 builders, I have a question about the canopy frame specifically
the latch (Mike Wills, Dave Aaronson are you listening). In looking at the
drawings it appears as though the canopy latch is built such that to latch
the canopy, the handle is pulled aft. In trying this though, it quickly
becomes apparent that my big elbow would easily bump the handle. Bottom
line, should the handle go forward or aft to latch the canopy?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Canopy question |
Scott:
I have mine rigged to pull aft for latch. You can easily have it either
way by reversing the location of the rods and drilling the respective
holes through the anterior, posterior square cross frame and the mid
frame support. If you look real carefully at the angle and position of
the front rod, where it needs to go through the square tubing you will
see that you have a space problem. If it is mounted any higher, i.e..
switching position of the rods on the handle weldment, there will be no
room on your panel to receive it. I went through this same thinking when
I put mine together. If you want to see some pictures I can dig them
up.
Good Luck
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
Oil cooler plenum/finished. Worked cool/hot depending on valve
position!
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
>
> Okay RV-4 builders, I have a question about the canopy frame specifically
> the latch (Mike Wills, Dave Aaronson are you listening). In looking at the
> drawings it appears as though the canopy latch is built such that to latch
> the canopy, the handle is pulled aft. In trying this though, it quickly
> becomes apparent that my big elbow would easily bump the handle. Bottom
> line, should the handle go forward or aft to latch the canopy?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
I've had a large number of favorable comments and quite a few requests
for the original VHS tape chronicling the arctic flight that my daughter
Lauren and I took. I am willing to mail out copies to anyone who sends
$15US or 20CDN to the address below. The shipping would be included in
that cost. The video can be viewed online at
<http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/videos.htm> Many thanks to Doug Reeves
who started the ball rolling on this video stuff.
Terry Jantzi
P.O. Box 20052
Pioneer Park Postal Outlet
Kitchener, ON Canada N2P 2B4
--
<http://www.netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/> Home Page
<http://www.ontariorvators.org> VAFOW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Installation Help |
In a message dated 2/6/01 11:05:54 AM Pacific Standard Time, dons6a(at)juno.com
writes:
> writes:
> >
> > I am trying to install the wheels on my RV-4 landing gear legs.
> > I was under the impression that the wheel bearings should be a slip fit
>
> > over the axle. My wheels' bearings are an interference fit. I feel
> they
> > will go on with some reasonable tapping with a soft mallet, but is this
> normal?
> > I want to be able to remove the wheels easily if I ever have to change
> a
> > tire in the field. Also, I have tried sanding the axle with emery
> paper,
> > but this hasn't helped. Any ideas?
> >
> > Ted Lumpkin
>
One thing you might try is to get some emery cloth, loop the ends around and
cut at a 45 degree angle and duct tape the ends together with the grit on the
inside. Then take a small scotch brite wheel w/ mandrel using a slow turning
drill with the emery cloth around the axle and scotch brite wheel rotate the
drill so that you are sanding on all sides of the axle. A few rotations
should clean up the axle to were the wheel will slip on and off.
Note: do not use a course emery cloth and don't get carried away with the
sanding, check and then check again.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: another antenna question.... |
Do you have the strobes in the tips? How do you anticipate the power supply
(if installed in the tips) or the strobe cables to get along with the nav
antenna?
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Gooping up the tanks
Plainfield, IL (LOT)
http://vondane.com/mnellis
----- Original Message -----
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 8:55 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: another antenna question....
>
> >The marker antenna is a separate item that goes under the
> > belly - I suggest you take a look at ACS and other catalogs.
>
> I put the VOR-GS antenna in one wing tip and the MBR (marker) in the
other.
> One is four short strips of thin aluminum the other a copper wire.
>
> I haven't tested but everyone says it works!
>
> Hal Kempthorne
> RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Canopy question |
In a message dated 2/7/01 7:27:00 AM Pacific Standard Time,
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com writes:
> >
>
> Okay RV-4 builders, I have a question about the canopy frame specifically
> the latch (Mike Wills, Dave Aaronson are you listening). In looking at the
> drawings it appears as though the canopy latch is built such that to latch
> the canopy, the handle is pulled aft. In trying this though, it quickly
> becomes apparent that my big elbow would easily bump the handle. Bottom
> line, should the handle go forward or aft to latch the canopy?
>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
For my RV4 I decided that the latch should go forward also, so thats the way
it was built. Its not hard to set it up that way. The forward rod is on top
and the aft rod is on the bottom. This also makes for a clean look with the
aft rod that is now parallel with the canopy frame. Most of the RV4's &
Rockets around here are set up that way too.
Good Luck
Tim Barnes
N39TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Van's wiring kit |
In a message dated 2/7/01 2:49:09 AM Pacific Standard Time, Ewinne(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< I'm also half-way through 'Lectric Bob's book, and feeling better about
wiring with each page I read. >>
Also take a look at Tony B's books. I found that they answered some
questions I still had after finishing Bob's book.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tails Pump: Pacer(sp) Was Right! |
| From: | Gary Graham <beeb(at)teleport.com> |
This is a re-post to hopefully clarify some of the confusion I created with
the original post. I am photo challenged but will include a phone number.
To those of you who want better air flow through (hot and cold) the cockpit
with smaller systems providing you with greater comfort, you need to stop
the battle of inlet air coming from the front of the plane(your design) with
that coming from the tail (and to some extent from the wings, rear canopy
skirt, flap rod holes, etc.). The RV-4 tail PUMPS!!! and I suspect that the
other designs do also. You can mitigate this problem as many s-cans have (
or use the tail as a source of pressure air).
I learned of this issue from books and followed up with empirical methods.
After 35hrs. in the back of an RV-4, X-country, that had a single hole in
the fire wall (no hoses in cockpit) providing heat evenly to the cockpit
(front and back) I wanted to know how it worked so well. Other RV's didn't
work this well, including mine. Sleeping under the wing, I spotted a hole
in the center of the belly of the tail cone that turned out to be one of
those plastic NACA Ducts BACKWORDS(located 49" ahead of the back end of the
fuselage). WAS this it? I wasn't about to cut up my bird to find out. The
owner had purchased the RV-4 and had no idea why it was there. He thought
it was part of the design (no hoses to it).
Here is how I got my air conditioning GRIN: RV-4 Fastback
To stop cold air from coming in and freezing certain body parts:
1. I sewed up some boots for the aileron push tubes from light weight
synthetic Swede leather(womens garment from the GoodWill provided the
material).
2. Sealed the canopy to canopy rails with "P-Strip" from Van's.
Sealed the front of the canopy to the cowl boot with the silicone pressed
into plastic wrap.
Sealed the front right corner of the canopy to canopy rail with a piece
of foam wedge.
Covered the flap arms with a shaped aluminum panel (this was for safety
also).
No problem with rear skirts because I don't have them. No stick boots
either but maybe one day. The lack of stick boots does allow for air
flow under the floorboards but I'm not sure that this is an advantage.
All of this sealing got a HALF GRIN.
My source of fresh air is a 7/8" hole in the left wing root fairing, plumbed
with 1" hose to an instrument panel mounted Wemac(sp) ball. My source of
hot air is a standard heat exchanger through a 1.5" valve(Lancair) on the
center of the firewall. In the future I will be adding some general purpose
cooling air near the ruder pedals with a valve. Right now I am bypassing
the heat exchanger in the summer.
Before I made the full grin changes, this is what happened. I would open
my air conditioning valves and would receive a blast of air that would then
diminish as the cockpit would pressurize. The fight was on between the
front air and the tail air. The "front lines"(front lines= that point where
the two pressure fronts meet) were at the cockpit. Without stick boots I
have plenty of openings front to back under the floor boards. With stick
boots I would have to open a 2" (min.) hole in the back of the baggage
compartment(in a location where baggage would not block it). The RV-4 has
enough of an air flow leak around the back seat to the baggage compartment.
You may remember that I proved the tail pumping theory by providing a 1/4"
stream of 100LL down the belly where it proceeded to spice up my day(see
"There I was at 10,000 feet" in the RV Archives). The good and the bad of
tail pumping.
Full GRIN Time:
Improving cockpit air flow:
1. Remember that I didn't want to cut a reverse NACA Duct in my RV's
belly? It so happens that I have an inspection hole forward of the first
tail bulkheads(this was to get at the bolts that hold my tail on(first
generation mod. to equal second gen. strength). I made up a second cover
plate for that hole, cut an 1 1/4" hole in it and made a fiberglass cover
for the hole that looks like a rounded over half of a jar lid. Think of it
as a reverse scoop(idea stolen from a British Auster(sp) antique that a
friend wins prizes with). The trailing edge of this device is a 1/2" above
the cover plate surface. The rounded over leading edge is a 3/16"
radius(from the side it looks like the top half of a wing leading edge) and
the purpose is to create a low pressure area over the hole. I haven't sewn
a boot for the elevator push tube at that first tail bulkhead yet, but I
moved the battle "front lines" back to the tail where the air flow is vented
via the device I made up. I now have so much hot air that I can't open the
valve but a crack. BIG GRIN.
2. Seal the tail off with a boot and put a reverse something(NACA Duct
(inset) or low pressure device (outset) forward of the booted bulkhead on
the belly or wherever. My proof of concept part is just under the leading
edge of the left horse. stab. (remember that it is also an inspection
cover).
Warm in the NW
Gary Graham
503 648-6123
Sorry about the confusion from the first post.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Hatwell <RV8OR(at)overvne.demon.co.uk> |
Bill
Room for your aircraft and enough spare to become a repeat offender.
80274 working on the pieces in true Johnny Cash tradition one piece at a
time.
>
>Thanks to all who have replied to my hangar size dilema. I thought that I
>might get by with a smaller building but after the unanamous vote for
>'BIGGER IS BETTER' , I am going to build a hangar 35x40 with 10 foot walls.
>That way I will be able to offer inside storage for all the RVs that travel
>through Southern Alberta on their way to see Western Canada.
>Thanks again for the assistance.-
>
--
Rob Hatwell
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Installation Help |
02/07/2001 01:48:47 PM
You could use a elect. belt sander. Install the belt inside-out and loop
the sanding belt over the drive rubbers of the belt sander and loop the
other of the sanding belt around the axil. Hold the sander so that the
belt is taught. Rotate the mess 360 degrees in quick rotations around the
axil. (like a outside barrel roll). Three or four passes of fine grade
paper and you are good to go. An old timer showed me this trick in less
time then it took me to slurp 4 sips of hot coffee......
MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM
Sent by: To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
owner-rv-list-server@mat cc:
ronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Wheel
Installation Help
02/07/2001 12:00 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
In a message dated 2/6/01 11:05:54 AM Pacific Standard Time,
dons6a(at)juno.com
writes:
> writes:
> >
> > I am trying to install the wheels on my RV-4 landing gear legs.
> > I was under the impression that the wheel bearings should be a slip fit
>
> > over the axle. My wheels' bearings are an interference fit. I feel
> they
> > will go on with some reasonable tapping with a soft mallet, but is this
> normal?
> > I want to be able to remove the wheels easily if I ever have to change
> a
> > tire in the field. Also, I have tried sanding the axle with emery
> paper,
> > but this hasn't helped. Any ideas?
> >
> > Ted Lumpkin
>
One thing you might try is to get some emery cloth, loop the ends around
and
cut at a 45 degree angle and duct tape the ends together with the grit on
the
inside. Then take a small scotch brite wheel w/ mandrel using a slow
turning
drill with the emery cloth around the axle and scotch brite wheel rotate
the
drill so that you are sanding on all sides of the axle. A few rotations
should clean up the axle to were the wheel will slip on and off.
Note: do not use a course emery cloth and don't get carried away with the
sanding, check and then check again.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: another antenna question.... |
My plan for antenna installation is as follows:
Dual NAV/COM radios - Dual Sportcraft wingtip NAV antenna's, Sportcraft
vertical stabilizer COM antenna and Less Drag Products, Inc. fairing,
Sportcraft switch for dual radio and single COM antenna. Splitter on NAV
antenna coax for ILS.
Marker Beacon - Sportcraft wingtip marker beacon antenna kit (mounts in
wingtip with NAV antenna).
Or I'll mount a 40" long conductor 3" outboard of the wing skin along the
bottom at the rear of the wingtip. This is in the same wingtip with the NAV
antenna, which mounts along the top at the front of the wingtip. The center
conductor of the coax is mounted to the 40" conductor. The outer shield is
NOT connected to anything!
This information is from Bob Archer. He says the marker beacon antenna
should NOT work too good. (Anyone interested in knowing when you're within
two miles of the outer marker? Or just when you pass over it?) :-)
GPS antenna - forward of firewall near top of cowl. The air temperature was
measured at 35 degrees over outside ambient at this location.
If you have any questions about the air temp, I already gave you what I know.
Check it for yourself. Additional data doesn't hurt, it just takes time.
:-)
Transponder - For an RV-6, it can be mounted at the rear of the airbox, BELOW
the airbox.
When I get my engine and cowling installed, I'll be looking for a similar
location. This antenna must be at the low spot on the airframe. (And
hopefully inside the cowl.)
If your installation doesn't use all of the radio gear, then leave out the
related antenna(s) and/or switch.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
RV-4 - HR2 sn 269
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
| Subject: | [Fwd: PSS AOA compatibilty with vortex generators] |
by femail2.sdc1.sfba.home.com
(InterMail vM.4.01.03.00 201-229-121) with ESMTP
for ;
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 16:03:43 -0500
From: Lynda Frantz <LFrantz(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: PSS compatibilty with vortex generators
>I would like to install the PSS AOA system on my RV-6. However, it has
vortex generators on the wings which extend from 7 to 8 inches from the
leading edge of the wing. This would put the AOA wing hole (sensor) 4
inches behind the VGs. Would the AOA system still work in this situation?<
Yes, we are measuring lift not airflow. We have had several other RVs do
the same thing without any problem. The pressure taps should be 12" aft
of
the leading edge of the wing.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Diehl <diehldon(at)home.com> |
I installed the UMA tach on my O-320 in my RV-4 (also not wanting to connect
to P-leads). Worked very well but was 100 R/M off so sent it back for
calibration and to add a red line at 2700. Returned promptly, calibrated
correctly, $5 charge for the red line. Excellent service.
Don Diehl
Bremerton WA
RV-4, N28EW
>
> I have an O360 lycoming I have tried a couple of
> mechanical tachs with little success. Has anyone used
> the electronic tach by UMA ($300)which connects to the
> engine drive and electronically sends a signal to a 3
> 1/8" analog instrument.supposed to be within +/-.02%
> appreciate any info. (dont want to connect to the mag
> p leads)
>
> Joe
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Door Efficacy |
On 5 Feb 2001, at 7:39, Mike Robertson wrote:
> Tim,
>
> If you are getting only about 150-160 as you say then blocking the oil
> cooler won't have any effect as the Verna-Therm is sxtill closed and
> no oil is going to the cooler.
Blocking the oil cooler *does* in fact raise the oil temperature to 180
degrees on my aircraft, on a number of other RV's, and on certified
aircraft that employ a winterization kit that blocks the oil cooler.
Therefore, your explanation and/or conclusion are incorrect.
>The standard Verna-Therm is set to
> 175-180 degrees.
> So blocking the air inlets to the engine would be the only effective
> way.
False.
> Maybe you could move the oil cooler door to the air inlets of the
> cowling??
Unnecessary. Blocking the oil cooler SCAT inlet with duct tape
solved the problem (inexpensively).
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan McFarland" <mcfarland_bryan(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | need info for georgia folks |
A couple of years ago while I was down in Georgia I found a grass strip somewhere
north of Atlanta off on the right hand side of the main highway. It had a couple
ch-34, C-47, and other a/c. can someone tell me what town it's close to
as I have a friend that lives down there that wants to take his kids to see this
field and a/c.
Thanks in advance.
Bryan
rv-6 rudder/waiting on medical
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: need info for georgia folks |
In a message dated 2/7/01 10:44:31 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mcfarland_bryan(at)hotmail.com writes:
> A couple of years ago while I was down in Georgia I found a grass strip
> somewhere north of Atlanta off on the right hand side of the main highway.
> It had a couple ch-34, C-47, and other a/c. can someone tell me what town
> it's close to as I have a friend that lives down there that wants to take
> his kids to see this field and a/c.
Sure,
The field is Mercer, a 3500' private grass strip that also houses outdoor
displays. The owner usually welcomes visitors by auto or by air. It is
located just South of Calhoun GA, on the East side of I-75. If you use the
exit for the outlet malls, go down the access road for the outlet mall, then
continue South on the access road, you'll eventually come to it.
Speaking of Calhoun, GA, does anyone know who the owner is of the pretty red
RV-6 parked on the ramp at the Calhoun airport?
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | warren gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
| Subject: | Heated Pitot Retrofit |
Hello to the list,
I would like to pass on an e-mail I received from one of my customers.
Ed Ward had asked me if it was possible to install my heated pitot tube
on a finished wing (skins already riveted on). I told him I thought it
was very possible but it would be more trouble.
Ed bought my installation kit and also a heated pitot tube from me,
installed them and sent me this message. Read first hand how much, or
how little, trouble it was. You be the judge.
Visit my website to see my products. The address is
http://www.gretzaero.com
Good building to you.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
From: "Gretz, Warren" <Warren_Gretz(at)nrel.gov>
Subject: FW: pitot tube
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 10:47:32 -0700
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Ward [mailto:ejward(at)home.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2001 8:21 PM
Subject: Re: pitot tube
Warren,
FYI - I have completed the installation of your pitot tube in a completed
RV6 wing. I installed it through the inspection plate opening in the
recommended location. The installation was not any more difficult than many
other things I have done on my RV6. I see no reason for anyone to be afraid
of undertaking the installation in a finished wing. The only compromise I
was required to make was the utilization of pop rivets to attach the
reinforcing bracket to the wing rib. There is no easy way to use solid
rivets here. This is in my opinion a very small give up.
You are welcome to direct any inquiries my way if you would like.
Regards,
Ed Ward
P.S. No skinned arms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gretz, Warren" <Warren_Gretz(at)nrel.gov>
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 9:00 AM
Subject: pitot tube
> Hello Ed, I am having trouble with my normal computer and must resort to
> using this one, Sorry.
>
> For a finished wing you will have to install the pitot bracket by working
> through the inspection plate and resort yourself to skinned arms. It will
be
> difficult to reach, but I am told by other builders that it can be done.
You
> may want to place the bracket in the last bay outboard on the wing. Do
this
> by removing the wing tip and work through the lighting holes in the outer
> most wing rib. This will be much easier to do than in the inspection plate
> bay. The pitot will work great out there also. There are several flying
> planes done this way.
>
> Let me know if you have further questions.
> Warren Gretz
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
Regarding the discussion on low oil temps I would like to pass on some of
the things I have learned over the years.
I am running a fuel injected 0360 in my RV 6 with a 8 row Stuart Warner
cooler installed level with the bottom of the left hand cowling air inlet.
The engine is equipped with a spin-on filter and this adapter incorporates a
vernatherm valve that has a setting of 185 degrees F. You can verify this
setting as it is stamped on the top of the valve usually as I remember 85 C.
In my installation it holds this temperature plus or minus 3 or 4 degrees
until the OAT drops to around 35 F. Occasionally on a hot day say 80 - 90 F
the oil temp will climb above this setting in a sustained aggressive climb
but is easily controlled by increasing the airspeed and with the RV's rate
of climb one is soon in cooler air.
The cold weather control for me is to blank of a portion of the cooler. I
have two sizes of metal plates .025 one covering about 1/3 and the other
about 1/2 of top of the cooler picking up two of the bolts that hold the
cooler. I use the narrow one in late fall and early spring and the other
when it is colder.With half of the cooler blocked the oil temp will remain
at the vernatherm setting with the OAT as low as 0 F and will not climb
above the setting until the OAT reaches 45-5OF this is in cruise at 65%.
The way the system works from what I have seen by looking at the parts
involved in the accessory cases and what has been explained to me is as
February 01, 2001 - February 08, 2001
RV-Archive.digest.vol-kd