RV-Archive.digest.vol-ke

February 08, 2001 - February 14, 2001



      follows. On start-up  even though the oil is cold some oil starts going
      through the cooler (how much I have never been able to find out). It would
      sure be a variable dependent on temp. viscosity and cooler and line size. As
      the oil temp rises the vernatherm valve starts to close. The vernatherm is
      like a loosely wound coil spring with a cone on the end that seats on hole
      in the case when fully extended. The spring is retracted when cold and
      elongates as it heats up acting as a vermostat by controlling the amount of
      oil flowing through the cooler. As the spring elongates it is closing of the
      amount of bypassed oil and forcing it to go through the cooler. If the temp
      climbs above this setting it means that the spring is fully extended and the
      cone is seated in the hole forcing the max amount of oil through the cooler.
      The control now is a higher airspeed and or a power reduction, this is when
      a properly sized cooler and a good location really pays off.
      
      Engines that are not equipped with a spin on filter ( whose with just a
      screen) may or may not have a vernatherm valve. The screen housing with part
      #69510K incorporates a vernatherm valve, the housing with part # 62815 does
      no have a vernatherm valve but incorporates a spring and plunger.  The
      spring and plunger arrangement as I understand it gives very little control
      over the oil temp.
      
      As regards the discussion on oil cooler doors I have flown aircraft with
      them installed and found  them to be best installed over the intake side of
      the cooler especially in severe cold to prevent the cooler from jelling. My
      feeling is that on a system that is working properly on a RV the simple
      solution is to blank of part of the intake side of the cooler if the oil
      temps go below 170-180.
      
      
      Eustace Bowhay   Blind Bay B.C.
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: TColeE(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 08, 2001
Subject: Fwd: LYCOMING O-320-D2J ENGINE FOR SALE
From: Rick Liles <RLiles(at)indmolding.com> "'cpaulson@paulson-training.com'" "'Im7shannon(at)aol.com'" "'rlluster(at)msn.com'" Subject: LYCOMING O-320-D2J ENGINE FOR SALE Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 14:40:36 -0600 Terry!! Please post on the RV list for me. ENGINE FOR SALE! My name is Richard Liles and I am the senior Engineer for a Plastic Injection Molder that supplies parts to most Automobile manufacturers, I am also an A&P, EAA technical counselor, and FAA Safety Counselor. I have Built 4 Experimental aircraft of which 2 have been RV-6A's. I am currently flying my RV-6A # N82R With an O-320-D2J engine (160 HP) that I Majored and has had the crankcase exchanged by 'Divco" for a overhauled O320-E2A crankcase. This was done to eliminate the large UN-used governor pad at the front of the engine. The Crankshaft is the original O320-D2J and does not have the C/S Prop cross tube and should be used only with fixed pitch props. The engine was rebuilt to new tolerances and has 250 hours SMOH and 2050 total time. It has nitrided steel Cylinders and the last compression test was 78/80 on all 4 cylinders. It burns 1 Quart of oil between every 25 hour oil change. I am wanting a O-360 / CS setup for my RV and would listen to any SALE / exchange / swap deal for a engine and/or Prop. My O-320 Would be sold or traded complete with Starter, 2 slick Mags, and Carb to a buyer intending on using a fixed pitch Prop. I am asking $11,500.00 and the engine is installed in my RV6A and can be test flown and inspected before purchase. Rick Liles 806-794-7336 home 806-474-1013 work 7102 wayne ave Lubbock TX 79424 (identifier KLBB) e-mail (rliles(at)indmolding.com) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lenleg(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 08, 2001
Subject: Re: Rivet gun help
Bob Avery will fax you directions to take the gun apart and clean. Seems most of the time it just needs to be cleaned. Bob will also repair the gun for you and get it out the door very quickly. Another reason to use Avery !!! Len Leggette, RV-8A Greensboro, North Carolina (N901LL res) Engine Hung - On to Accessories! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2001
Subject: Re: need info for georgia folks
From: Shelby Smith <rvaitor(at)home.com>
I think it is near Calhoun. I know there is a big Outlet Mall close or at that exit. -- Shelby Smith rvaitor(at)home.com RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP N95EB - reserved > From: "Bryan McFarland" <mcfarland_bryan(at)HOTMAIL.COM> > Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 20:41:23 -0700 > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: need info for georgia folks > > A couple of years ago while I was down in Georgia I found a grass > strip somewhere north of Atlanta off on the right hand side of the main > highway. It had a couple ch-34, C-47, and other a/c. can someone tell me what > town it's close to as I have a friend that lives down there that wants to take > his kids to see this field and a/c. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: need info for georgia folks
Date: Feb 08, 2001
If you get the N number of that RV-6 you can look it up on www.landings.com <http://www.landings.com> -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 -----Original Message----- From: KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM [mailto:KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM] Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 8:12 PM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: need info for georgia folks In a message dated 2/7/01 10:44:31 PM Eastern Standard Time, mcfarland_bryan(at)hotmail.com writes: > A couple of years ago while I was down in Georgia I found a grass strip > somewhere north of Atlanta off on the right hand side of the main highway. > It had a couple ch-34, C-47, and other a/c. can someone tell me what town > it's close to as I have a friend that lives down there that wants to take > his kids to see this field and a/c. Sure, The field is Mercer, a 3500' private grass strip that also houses outdoor displays. The owner usually welcomes visitors by auto or by air. It is located just South of Calhoun GA, on the East side of I-75. If you use the exit for the outlet malls, go down the access road for the outlet mall, then continue South on the access road, you'll eventually come to it. Speaking of Calhoun, GA, does anyone know who the owner is of the pretty red RV-6 parked on the ramp at the Calhoun airport? Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Terra/Trimble warranty service
Date: Feb 08, 2001
I was thinking they were out of business. A friend asked me what I thought of Terra as tho they are available still. I see no mention of Terra on the Trimble web site. Are new com radios from Terra just old unsold stock? Hal Kempthorne RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 08, 2001
Subject: plug for fiberlites
Hello all, last night I shut off the lights in the shop to admire my panel lit up with the fiberlite system. Very cool. But heres the best part, so listen up. I gave up trying to find a horizon gyro set up for a tilted panel and just bought a standard one. The fiberlite bezels come dis assembled for the builder to install the light ribbons himself. I shimmed out the bottom two screws of the AH with 4 (on each side) of the plastic washers that come in the kit to set the instrument parallel with the main fuse longeron. By having the flexibility to install the light ribbon myself, I was able to hide the gap at the bottom. It is real hard to tell that the face of the instrument is not on the same plane as the rest of them. So the tilted panel problem is easily solved. This could easily be done with the DG, but I didnt bother. Kevin Shannon -9A wiring and cockpit stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: I'm still looking for an engine
Date: Feb 08, 2001
Hi Guys and Gals, I found out that the 0320 H2AD's won't hang on my dyna-focal mount (they require a special dyna-focal mount). I'm looking for an engine with a few hundred hours left before I have to learn over hauling. Can be an O-235, O-290, or an O-320, I just need something in-expensive that will hook up to my RV-4 dyna-focal mount. Any and all referrals would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all, in advance, for your assistance. Chuck ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.)
Date: Feb 08, 2001
Subject: Re: Rivet gun help
Amen to using Avery for rivet gun service.Bob Avery is a first class gentleman and he stands behind what he sells. Bob Poplar Grove,ILL. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: I'm still looking for an engine
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Feb 08, 2001
02/08/2001 01:39:16 PM It might pay you to target the specific engine (320 or 360) and a specific dash number now because of the carburator placement and exhaust system and placement of other accessory goodies--- that if you set up for some tempory engine now, it will make for a heck of a lot of work later to swap the engine out for the one you eventually want. (cowl mods.........brackets,...) "Chuck Rabaut" To: Sent by: cc: owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: RV-List: I'm still looking for an engine ronics.com 02/08/2001 09:31 AM Please respond to rv-list Hi Guys and Gals, I found out that the 0320 H2AD's won't hang on my dyna-focal mount (they require a special dyna-focal mount). I'm looking for an engine with a few hundred hours left before I have to learn over hauling. Can be an O-235, O-290, or an O-320, I just need something in-expensive that will hook up to my RV-4 dyna-focal mount. Any and all referrals would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all, in advance, for your assistance. Chuck ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com>
Subject: Tilted gyro - can't find one
Date: Feb 08, 2001
I've been waiting for three months to get a tilted artificial horizon for my RV-8. Word has it that nobody has them. Wondering if any of you have a source... Thanks, - Bill in Tucson ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2001
From: RICKRV6(at)AOL.COM
Subject: Re: Tilted gyro - can't find one
Good luck, I've been waiting seven month for an RC Allen I bought through Varga. That's a fair amount of interest they've earned on my money. Rick McBride 80027 (I will finish in this lifetime) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rquinn1(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 08, 2001
Subject: Re: UMA Tach
Don, how did you know your tach was off 100RPM? Thanks Rod and Rollie RV6A Finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Browne" <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-6A Project - Sold
Date: Feb 08, 2001
Thanks to all who inquired. The project has been sold. Now to find a good Arrow .... Chris Browne Atlanta ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net>
Subject: Re: Tilted gyro - can't find one
Date: Feb 08, 2001
Get your order in with Tom at Pacific Coast Avionics...he'll get it for you.. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Finish Kit (Still) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 1:21 PM Subject: RV-List: Tilted gyro - can't find one > > I've been waiting for three months to get a tilted artificial horizon for my > RV-8. Word has it that nobody has them. Wondering if any of you have a > source... > > Thanks, > > - Bill in Tucson > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: UMA Tach
Date: Feb 08, 2001
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Re: UMA Tach Thread-Index: AcCSHie4g1RR+qZoQvy0fNEgOV6zHAAABByw
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
Have your prop dynamically balanced... the person doing it can tell you if the tach is off. Bob Japundza RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying > Don, how did you know your tach was off 100RPM? > Thanks > Rod and Rollie > RV6A Finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vince Welch" <vwelch(at)knownet.net>
Subject: Battery Location
Date: Feb 08, 2001
Gentlemen, I am planning on a RV-8A with an O-360 and constant speed prop. I am planning on an IFR panel. Considering the above configuration, would you recommend mounting the battery in the aft location that is called out as an option in the plans? Vince Welch RV-8A Fuselage Roaming Shores, Ohio ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Tilted gyro - can't find one
Date: Feb 09, 2001
Have you contacted ACS? When I called several months ago they said they didn't have any. However, I continued to talk to them about it and lo and behold they located one in stock in Georgia. Who knows, maybe they have another - mine was made by Sigma Tek. Cageable with an 8 degree tilt. John Warren RV-6Q (645W) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 1:50 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Tilted gyro - can't find one > > Get your order in with Tom at Pacific Coast Avionics...he'll get it for > you.. > > Paul Besing > RV-6A (197AB) Arizona > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing > Finish Kit (Still) > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> > To: "RV-List" > Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 1:21 PM > Subject: RV-List: Tilted gyro - can't find one > > > > > > I've been waiting for three months to get a tilted artificial horizon for > my > > RV-8. Word has it that nobody has them. Wondering if any of you have a > > source... > > > > Thanks, > > > > - Bill in Tucson > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Tilted gyro - can't find one
Date: Feb 08, 2001
I ordered a Sigma-Tek vacuum AH with 8 degree tilt on 1/12/01 from Aircraft $pruce & Specialty. It was backordered, but it arrived around the first of February. The 8 degree tilt added about $150 to the price. Total came to around $677. I talked to a local instrument repair center and they like the Sigma over the RC Allen for durability, so I went with all Sigma gyros and Sigma vac pump. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6 fuselage ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Ludwig <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 2:21 PM Subject: RV-List: Tilted gyro - can't find one > > I've been waiting for three months to get a tilted artificial horizon for my > RV-8. Word has it that nobody has them. Wondering if any of you have a > source... > > Thanks, > > - Bill in Tucson > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 08, 2001
Subject: Re: Tilted gyro - can't find one
> I ordered a Sigma-Tek vacuum AH with 8 degree tilt on 1/12/01 from Aircraft > $pruce & Specialty. It was backordered, but it arrived around the first of > February. The 8 degree tilt added about $150 to the price. Total came to > around $677. > I bought a standard one and shimmed the bottom two mounting screws with neoprene washers to hold the inst. level, then hid the gap with a modified fiberlite bezel, cant even tell looking at the face of the panel that its "crooked" Kevin Shannon -9A Panel & wiring ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jones, Bryan D." <bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
Subject: Battery Location
Date: Feb 08, 2001
Yes. Especially with the dead weight of a nose gear! ;) Bryan Jones -8 765BJ Pearland, Texas -----Original Message----- From: Vince Welch [mailto:vwelch(at)knownet.net] Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 4:54 PM Subject: RV-List: Battery Location Gentlemen, I am planning on a RV-8A with an O-360 and constant speed prop. I am planning on an IFR panel. Considering the above configuration, would you recommend mounting the battery in the aft location that is called out as an option in the plans? Vince Welch RV-8A Fuselage Roaming Shores, Ohio ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman, Jim" <jnorman(at)yourdoctor.com>
Subject: Propeller for Sam James Cowl
Date: Feb 08, 2001
Listers, I'm interested in putting a Sam James (aka Barnard) Holy Cowl on my 6A. Got the carb issue fixed by going with Aerosport Fuel Inj. Now comes the next problem! What kind of constant speed propeller does it require?. Apparently it requires a 4" hub, meaning that I have several choices: 1) Use a "standard" Hartzell C2YK model and cut the cowl 4", but now I have serious clearances (I think) with alternator, etc. 2) Buy the Hartzell C2YK model and put a 4" spacer in it (seems to be discouraged by some propeller experts I've talked to). 3) Buy a Hartzell M2YR-1BF/766A-2. This is a constant speed prop with a 4" thick hub (moves the prop 4" further away from the crankshaft flange). This propeller from the Propeller Man Steve White in Orlando, FL is nearly $8,000. I've talked to everybody at Vans except for Van himself, and this is as far as they can help. I've talked to Sam James himself, and this is as far as he can help. Now I'm turning to the real experts....those of you who have actually done it. So, if anybody out there has put a Holy Cowl or Sam James Cowl on their 4, 6 or 8, please let me know what propeller you used. If anybody else knows of someone who is not on this list that has done this mod, please put me in touch with them. jim Tampa, FL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2001
From: TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
Subject: Toe in anyone?
Dear -8 builders, after careful alignment of the main gear legs, and lots of work later, I have measured the axles and find them toe in by 2.1 degrees each. This is gut wrenching. Rechecking the gear legs, the leading edges are dead nuts aligned and equal distant from a hole in the bottom of the tail cone. I guess there must be some twist there somewhere. So, I screwed up and didn't check the axles, just the gear alignment. Now I have to fix it. My questions are these: 1. Has anyone finished one and flown it, with toe in? I know this is not a car, but cars have toe in for stability, does this apply to us taildraggers? If so, how much is the right amount? 2. Can this much be corrected with 1 degree shims like on my Cessna? Is 2 degrees too much? Will it bend axle bolts? thanks to all, Dan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Toe in anyone?
Date: Feb 08, 2001
You do NOT want any toe in on a taildragger. Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh EAA Chapter 75 helping fellow aviators ----- Original Message ----- From: "TwoAviators" <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 7:04 PM Subject: RV-List: Toe in anyone? > > Dear -8 builders, after careful alignment of the main gear legs, and lots > of work later, I have measured the axles and find them toe in by 2.1 > degrees each. This is gut wrenching. Rechecking the gear legs, the leading > edges are dead nuts aligned and equal distant from a hole in the bottom of > the tail cone. I guess there must be some twist there somewhere. > > So, I screwed up and didn't check the axles, just the gear alignment. Now I > have to fix it. My questions are these: > > 1. Has anyone finished one and flown it, with toe in? I know this is not a > car, but cars have toe in for stability, does this apply to us > taildraggers? If so, how much is the right amount? > > 2. Can this much be corrected with 1 degree shims like on my Cessna? Is 2 > degrees too much? Will it bend axle bolts? > > thanks to all, > > Dan > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2001
From: Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: Toe in anyone?
Dan, If you measure the toe-in with the airplane level like Van's recommends, you WILL have toe in when the tail is on the ground. This is because of camber. If there were no camber there would be no change tail up or down. I was distressed because my 6 had 1.5 - 2 deg. of toe-in ( and you can't change it on a 6) but the airplane handles so well on roll-out that I soon forgot about it! I do see more tire wear than I think I should and wish that I could adjust it to minimize the wear. Remember that the worst toe-in will occur at touchdown when the tail is low and there is little weight on the mains (causing more camber). My personal goal is ZERO toe-in when the tail is on the ground. Dave TwoAviators wrote: > > Dear -8 builders, after careful alignment of the main gear legs, and lots > of work later, I have measured the axles and find them toe in by 2.1 > degrees each. This is gut wrenching. Rechecking the gear legs, the leading > edges are dead nuts aligned and equal distant from a hole in the bottom of > the tail cone. I guess there must be some twist there somewhere. > > So, I screwed up and didn't check the axles, just the gear alignment. Now I > have to fix it. My questions are these: > > 1. Has anyone finished one and flown it, with toe in? I know this is not a > car, but cars have toe in for stability, does this apply to us > taildraggers? If so, how much is the right amount? > > 2. Can this much be corrected with 1 degree shims like on my Cessna? Is 2 > degrees too much? Will it bend axle bolts? > > thanks to all, > > Dan > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: W4PPN(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 08, 2001
Subject: Phone number??
It is time to start looking for engines. I have read a lot about Bart Lalonde at Aerosport Power in Canada.=A0 Does anyone have his phone number? Does he sell engines outright or do you have to have a core to trade in? What kind of price ranges are we talking about? I am looking at the IO-360 A1B6 200 HP. Is there any problems with taxes or tarrifs when ordering from Canada? Howard Cochran Mooresville, NC 1/2 of 80188 Painting interior on Friday Feb. 9th. Canopy next. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net>
Subject: Re: Toe in anyone?
Date: Feb 08, 2001
Dan, Don't panic. Twist in RV-8 gear legs is common, it happened to me and others. Wait until your airplane is all assembled and sitting on the gear (full empty weight ), roll it back and forth a few times, then check alignment by holding two (requires a helper) 4' straight edges on the outside of each tire centered at the axle. Measure at the foreward ends and the back ends to determine if any toe in or out exists. It should be NEUTRAL. Dont tolerate any toe in as this promotes ground looping on tail draggers. Toe out promotes stability but increases tire wear. The shims will correct any problem OK. Bill N48WD ----- Original Message ----- From: "TwoAviators" <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 8:04 PM Subject: RV-List: Toe in anyone? > > Dear -8 builders, after careful alignment of the main gear legs, and lots ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Subject: Cap. senders BNC specs.
Date: Feb 08, 2001
Since my Capacative sender kit was misssig the BNC connectors, I have to order them from Amphenol Canada. I called Van's and told them they were missing, but they don't sell them or know where to get them - just that they "should be in the package"?!? No big deal though. The parts list that came with the kit shows BNC connectors called "AV BNC 31-236-RFX". Amphenol has a bunch of RFX connectors but only one called a 31-236 (without the RFX extension). Anyone know the proper part number? Or, anyone know if it should be a crimp style or plain solder style? Also, does it matter if it's 50 or 75 ohm? Even more interesting to know would be: Who packages these kits and sells them to Van's? I should be able to get the correct part or at least part number there. Are RV-8 Wings - Tank stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Re: Phone number??
Date: Feb 08, 2001
> > It is time to start looking for engines. I have read a lot about Bart > Lalonde at Aerosport Power in Canada.=A0 Does anyone have his phone number? > > Does he sell engines outright or do you have to have a core to trade in? > What kind of price ranges are we talking about? > > I am looking at the IO-360 A1B6 200 HP. > > Is there any problems with taxes or tarrifs when ordering from Canada? Bart's number is 250-376-2955. Yes, you can buy an engine outright. That is what I did. He can build up anything you want with whatever components you desire. Mine was a 0-360-A1A, 180 hp, carb, oil filter, chrome job, gray paint, fine wire plugs, all brand new components except an OH case. Price was $19,700 US. You pay a small brokerage fee to handle the customs paperwork. I think that was $75. Plus shipping by truck of course, which I think was less than $300 to Wisconsin. Doug Weiler ================ Doug Weiler Hudson, WI 715-386-1239 dougweil(at)pressenter.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Subject: Re: Toe in anyone?
Date: Feb 08, 2001
> > Dan, > > If you measure the toe-in with the airplane level like Van's recommends, you > WILL have toe in when the tail is on the ground. This is because of camber. If > there were no camber there would be no change tail up or down. I was distressed > because my 6 had 1.5 - 2 deg. of toe-in ( and you can't change it on a 6) but > the airplane handles so well on roll-out that I soon forgot about it! I do see > more tire wear than I think I should and wish that I could adjust it to > minimize the wear. Like Dave, my RV-6 has lots of toe-in with the tail down, none in the level attitude specified for measuring. This would seem to be an unavoidable consequence of all the camber. I also get lots of tire wear but other than that there seem to be no problems. The ground handling is great. I'm glad it works, because there is no easy adjustment on the 6 and even if there was I don't think I would want to go to toe-out in the level attitude to get none in three point. There is no way to have camber and the same alignment in both attitudes. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP Flying http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net>
Subject: Re: Phone number??
Date: Feb 08, 2001
Hello Howard, Bart's Phone number; (250) 376- 2955. Fax(250)376-1995 Their web site is www.aerosportpower.com Their address is: Aero Sport Power 2965 Airport Road Kamloops BC. V2B 7W8 To email Bart; sales(at)erosportpower.com They sell with or without cores. Taxes, tariffs, etc. to my knowledge are not a problem. Bart and the crew built my 0-360 last spring. I live in a town fairly close to Kamloops, about 150 miles away. I do have some experience in the mechanical field. They invited me to stick my nose in and watch their process in action. They have a very good operation going on there. I'm sure you will find Bart to be very helpful with what you need. I am not affiliated with Areosport, I owe them only the respect that they earned! it sounds like you and I are near the same stage of construction, I'm building a 6A. Good luck And have fun building Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: <W4PPN(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 6:54 PM Subject: RV-List: Phone number?? > > It is time to start looking for engines. I have read a lot about Bart > Lalonde at Aerosport Power in Canada.=A0 Does anyone have his phone number? > > Does he sell engines outright or do you have to have a core to trade in? > What kind of price ranges are we talking about? > > I am looking at the IO-360 A1B6 200 HP. > > Is there any problems with taxes or tarrifs when ordering from Canada? > > Howard Cochran > Mooresville, NC > 1/2 of 80188 > Painting interior on Friday Feb. 9th. > Canopy next. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RGray67968(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 09, 2001
Subject: Elect. Wizzes
Here it is, I've installed 5 or 6 "idiot lights" in my 6 (boost pump on, engine alarm, flaps extended, canopy ajar, oil press, etc). I added a "test light" to verify the bulbs are good. Rather than using a relay..........I installed a diode on each light to prevent backfeed. Everything works great (in the basement) but now I'm wondering if I did the right thing. My questions are 1 - How long do diodes last? 2 - Should I have gone with relays instead? 3 - What have others done? Never too late to do it right!!! Thanks in advance. Rick Gray RV6QB (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm please archive ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Elect. Wizzes
Date: Feb 08, 2001
Rick wrote: >I've installed 5 or 6 "idiot lights" in my 6 (boost pump on, engine >alarm, flaps extended, canopy ajar, oil press, etc). I added a "test light" >to verify the bulbs are good. Why not test the lights thus: Get in plane & leave flaps down. Before closing canopy, turn on master and boost pump. This lights them all, right? Oh, the engine alarm light? Does it signal if the engine quits? ;-) My own experience is, Rick, that it is easy to put too much into "little mods" and get way behind on building an airplane. Do the test light stuff after you are flying - or are you already? Hal Kempthorne RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Tilted gyro - can't find one
Date: Feb 08, 2001
Couldn't you buy a non-tilted one and have someone like Gyro House tilt it? Ross > I've been waiting for three months to get a tilted artificial horizon for my > RV-8. Word has it that nobody has them. Wondering if any of you have a > source... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2001
From: George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca>
Subject: Re: Phone number??
W4PPN(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > > It is time to start looking for engines. I have read a lot about Bart > Lalonde at Aerosport Power in Canada.=A0 Does anyone have his phone number? > > Does he sell engines outright or do you have to have a core to trade in? > What kind of price ranges are we talking about? > > I am looking at the IO-360 A1B6 200 HP. > > Is there any problems with taxes or tarrifs when ordering from Canada? > > Howard Cochran > Mooresville, NC > 1/2 of 80188 > Painting interior on Friday Feb. 9th. > Canopy next. > Barts Number is 1-800-667-0522 or 1-250-376-6226 Not sure on the other question, but it shouldent be a problem, everything was (is) manufactured in the US anyway. George McNutt Langley, B.C. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PASSPAT(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 09, 2001
Subject: Re: Tilted gyro - can't find one
It is easy to have one just contact Dick at Astro Instruments in Detroit he can adjust the 8 deg. you are looking for He may even have a reconditioned one in stock He is familiar with the need of the RV and the built in tilt Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "<Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com>
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with ESMTP id for" ; Fri, 09 Feb 2001 08:50:32.-0500(at)matronics.com
Subject: Matco Adjustable Cylinders
Date: Feb 09, 2001
02/09/2001 08:53:43 AM Last week I passed on some scuttlebutt about changing out the plungers of your cylinders to an adjustable type that Matco sells to other aircraft manufacturers. My buddy reports that his work great. His pedals are built to plan and the plungers allow you to adjust the angle of the brake pedals to actually fit your feet. Imagine that. His contact was George at Matco at (801) 486-7574 Eric ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
Subject: toe in thread
Date: Feb 09, 2001
On the subject of toe in, I was under the impression that a little toe in was OK or even good, but that toe out was the ground loop initiator. It makes sense if you hold your hands out in front of you, toed in, and visualize the beginnings of a ground loop. With a little toe in the outside wheel would want to straighten itself during a ground loop. With toe out, the inside wheel wants to dig in and worsen the problem. According to my HRII info stack, the Rockets get some toe in.... I'll have to check my plans further. Comments to the list please. Keep 'em clean, my kids see this list too. Thanks, Vince in Indiana ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 2001
From: Tom Gesele <tgesele(at)usa.net>
Subject: Fwd Rivet Line On F-672
Listers, What are people doing regarding c/sinking vs. dimpling the fwd rivet line of the F-672 (forward bottom skin). With the polyester cowls, there was a 032 spacer which could be c-sunk so that the skin & firewall could be dimpled. According the dwg 63, there appears to be no such spacer with the epoxy cowl, so it appears that the only option is to c-sink the 672, which I'm afraid may lead to smoking rivets. I've also considered planning on adding the spacer anyway and either adding a simliar one to the cowl, or building up the area to match. If anyone has any advice or opinions on the best way to handle this, I'd appreciate hearing them. Thanks, Tom Gesele RV-6 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 2001
From: Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: Elect. Wizzes
Hi Rick, The diodes will probably outlast the airplane. It's a good idea to have a test button since you may want to test the lights while in flight. Sounds like you did it right. Dave RGray67968(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > Here it is, > I've installed 5 or 6 "idiot lights" in my 6 (boost pump on, engine > alarm, flaps extended, canopy ajar, oil press, etc). I added a "test light" > to verify the bulbs are good. Rather than using a relay..........I installed > a diode on each light to prevent backfeed. Everything works great (in the > basement) but now I'm wondering if I did the right thing. My questions are 1 > - How long do diodes last? 2 - Should I have gone with relays instead? 3 - > What have others done? > Never too late to do it right!!! > Thanks in advance. > Rick Gray RV6QB (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm > please archive > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com>
Subject: Propeller for Sam James Cowl
Date: Feb 09, 2001
Ed Cole Maxim Integrated Products Bldg. 120 Ext. 6605 > -----Original Message----- > From: Cole, Ed > Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 8:16 AM > To: 'jnorman(at)yourdoctor.com' > Subject: RE: RV-List: Propeller for Sam James Cowl > > Jim, > I have an IO360 and an original Steve Barnard Holy Cowl with Sam James' > fiberglass > plenum. Van's carries the special prop (#3 on your list). I paid $6200 for > it. > Also bought the Govenor from Van's $1200. > I haven't put it the engine/cowling on my RV yet. > Steve is the one who called Van's for me and insisted they carry that > particular prop. > I understand prices went up recently, but don't know what Van's is getting > for them now. > He is usually the cheapest, however. > If you have anymore questions, email me back > > Ed Cole > RV6A Finish Kit > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Norman, Jim [SMTP:jnorman(at)yourdoctor.com] > Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 5:02 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Propeller for Sam James Cowl > > > Listers, > > I'm interested in putting a Sam James (aka Barnard) Holy Cowl on my 6A. > Got > the carb issue fixed by going with Aerosport Fuel Inj. Now comes the next > problem! What kind of constant speed propeller does it require?. > Apparently > it requires a 4" hub, meaning that I have several choices: > > 1) Use a "standard" Hartzell C2YK model and cut the cowl 4", but now I > have > serious clearances (I think) with alternator, etc. > 2) Buy the Hartzell C2YK model and put a 4" spacer in it (seems to be > discouraged by some propeller experts I've talked to). > 3) Buy a Hartzell M2YR-1BF/766A-2. This is a constant speed prop with a 4" > thick hub (moves the prop 4" further away from the crankshaft flange). > This > propeller from the Propeller Man Steve White in Orlando, FL is nearly > $8,000. > > I've talked to everybody at Vans except for Van himself, and this is as > far > as they can help. I've talked to Sam James himself, and this is as far as > he can help. Now I'm turning to the real experts....those of you who have > actually done it. > > So, if anybody out there has put a Holy Cowl or Sam James Cowl on their 4, > 6 > or 8, please let me know what propeller you used. If anybody else knows of > someone who is not on this list that has done this mod, please put me in > touch with them. > > jim > Tampa, FL > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ClecoToo(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 09, 2001
Subject: Beautiful RV4 project for sell
RV4 kit, complete. Wing kit finished and beautiful including tanks, flaps and ailerons, empengae kit mostly done and very nice. Most of fuselage components ready for jig. Excellent fuselage jig included. Some options included. Sweat and blood went into it, it is not junk. Selling due to sudden need for a Super Cub, mid life crisis or something. Price 12,500 negotiable. 316--755-4567. James ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Cap. senders BNC specs.
Date: Feb 09, 2001
Are, My capacitive sender kit came with the bulkhead mounted receptacle but not the plug end for the cable (which also is not included with the interface module from Electronics International. The supplied BNC receptacle had a rather cheap looking formed center contact and the housing looked like a cheap, low quality die casting. I decided to replace them with quality Mil Spec Amphenol receptacles with machined pin since I had to order the plugs. The receptacles are designed for use in a pressure bulkhead but I sealed them with ProSeal on the inside of the tank anyway. I called EI and they told me it didn't matter if I used 50 or 75 ohm connectors. I ordered the Amphenol connectors from Mouser at www.mouser.com Here are the part numbers that I used: BNC Bulkhead Receptacle: Mouser #523-31-102 (Amphenol #31-102) $5.08 each (5/30/00) BNC Plug: Mouser #523-31-320 (Amphenol #31-320) $5.67 each I just checked the Mouser site and see that the receptacle is now $8.08 each. Chris Heitman Dousman WI RV-9A N94ME (reserved) Fuselage http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html -----Original Message----- Since my Capacative sender kit was misssig the BNC connectors, I have to order them from Amphenol Canada. I called Van's and told them they were missing, but they don't sell them or know where to get them - just that they "should be in the package"?!? No big deal though. The parts list that came with the kit shows BNC connectors called "AV BNC 31-236-RFX". Amphenol has a bunch of RFX connectors but only one called a 31-236 (without the RFX extension). Anyone know the proper part number? Or, anyone know if it should be a crimp style or plain solder style? Also, does it matter if it's 50 or 75 ohm? Even more interesting to know would be: Who packages these kits and sells them to Van's? I should be able to get the correct part or at least part number there. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 09, 2001
Subject: Re: RV4-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 02/08/01
In a message dated 2/8/01 11:55:46 PM Pacific Standard Time, rv4-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Chuck Rabaut" > > Hi Guys and Gals, > > I found out that the 0320 H2AD's won't hang on my dyna-focal mount (they > require a special dyna-focal mount). I'm looking for an engine with a few > hundred hours left before I have to learn over hauling. Can be an O-235, > O-290, or an O-320, I just need something in-expensive that will hook up to > my RV-4 dyna-focal mount. Any and all referrals would be greatly > appreciated. Thank you all, in advance, for your assistance. > > Chuck Remember the immortal words from the past "There is NO subistute for horse power " > wood prop on your RV4 > you would be aft CG with a 110lb passenger & no baggage. Tim Barnes N39TB > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com>
Subject: Re: Gyros
Date: Feb 09, 2001
5.0.3 (Intl)|21 March 2000) at 02/09/2001 11:26:15 AM Is Oshkosh a good place to buy gyros? With all this talk of having them backordered, etc, just wondering if any listers have been able to get good deals at OSH in recent years? I'm interested in vacuum gyros and would consider used/refurb'd units if done by a reputable outfit for a good price. --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com>
Subject: Re: Cap. senders BNC specs.
Date: Feb 09, 2001
Are, The BNC connectors that came in my kit were regular solder type 50 ohm jobs. I did not check the part # on the connectors though. Bill Christie, RV8A, Phoenix ----- Original Message ----- From: Are Barstad <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 8:42 PM Subject: RV-List: Cap. senders BNC specs. > > Since my Capacative sender kit was misssig the BNC connectors, I have to > order them from Amphenol Canada. I called Van's and told them they were > missing, but they don't sell them or know where to get them - just that they > "should be in the package"?!? No big deal though. > > The parts list that came with the kit shows BNC connectors called "AV BNC > 31-236-RFX". Amphenol has a bunch of RFX connectors but only one called a > 31-236 (without the RFX extension). Anyone know the proper part number? Or, > anyone know if it should be a crimp style or plain solder style? Also, does > it matter if it's 50 or 75 ohm? > > Even more interesting to know would be: Who packages these kits and sells > them to Van's? I should be able to get the correct part or at least part > number there. > > Are > RV-8 Wings - Tank stuff > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Re: Phone number??
Date: Feb 09, 2001
> > Yes, you can buy an engine outright. That is what I did. He can build up > > anything you want with whatever components you desire. Mine was a > > 0-360-A1A, 180 hp, carb, oil filter, chrome job, gray paint, fine wire > > plugs, all brand new components except an OH case. Price was $19,700 US. > > You pay a small brokerage fee to handle the customs paperwork. I think > that > > was $75. Plus shipping by truck of course, which I think was less than > $300 > > to Wisconsin. > > > > Doug Weiler > > > > What would that engine have cost you new, purchased through Van's? > > Dave Berryhill At the time Van was selling new 0-360-A1As for $20,500. There were a few more items that were on Bart's engine (alternator, oil filter housing, iridium plugs, etc) that were not on the Lycoming. Plus Bart's warranty is better. Doug ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Toe in anyone?
Date: Feb 09, 2001
Dan: I think that toe-in is a bad thing for a tail dragger. Makes it easier to turn. After carefully aligning my gear legs prior to drilling, I found almost 3% discrepancy when checking the axle alignment. I corrected with Van's shims. Haven't taxied the plane yet, so can't report on results, but I think I'm going to be all right. George Kilishek. Engine installation almost finished. >From: TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV8-List: Toe in anyone? >Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 20:04:12 -0500 > >--> RV8-List message posted by: TwoAviators > >Dear -8 builders, after careful alignment of the main gear legs, and lots >of work later, I have measured the axles and find them toe in by 2.1 >degrees each. This is gut wrenching. Rechecking the gear legs, the leading >edges are dead nuts aligned and equal distant from a hole in the bottom of >the tail cone. I guess there must be some twist there somewhere. > >So, I screwed up and didn't check the axles, just the gear alignment. Now I >have to fix it. My questions are these: > >1. Has anyone finished one and flown it, with toe in? I know this is not a >car, but cars have toe in for stability, does this apply to us >taildraggers? If so, how much is the right amount? > >2. Can this much be corrected with 1 degree shims like on my Cessna? Is 2 >degrees too much? Will it bend axle bolts? > >thanks to all, > >Dan > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman, Jim" <jnorman(at)yourdoctor.com>
Subject: RE: Propeller for Sam James Cowl UPDATE
Date: Feb 09, 2001
Listers, I've had 5 different "off line" responses to my question about the correct propeller for the Sam James Cowl. The answer is not in yet, but I think I'm getting closer. As I figure this out, I will update the list. So please, keep the comments coming and I'll write the definitive answer here as soon as I can. What I am learning is this (this is NOT final, but is where this thread is headed): It sounds like the engine used may dictate which propeller is needed for the Sam James Holy Cowl. All the responses I've had so far bear this out (although I'm not sure enough data has been collected to state this as fact). Those who use the angled valve IO-360 have all used the more expensive (and 4" thicker hub) M2YR propeller, while those who have used the parallel O-360 have used the standard (and much cheaper) C2YK propeller. The Propeller Man in Orlando FL tells me that these two propellers have the same blades, but its the hub that is the only difference. Van's concurs on this fact. If all of this is true, then the angled valve engine must be 4" shorter than the parallel valve 0-360. (is this true?). Another question which has arisen is which Fuel Injection system people have used. For those not in tune with this question, the Holy Cowl will not work with a carburetor without extensive mods for the airbox and airfilter (see Randy Lervold's excellent site on this problem and how he addressed it http://www.rv-8.com/) The standard Sam James Cowl has a built in ram air inlet which interfaces with a K&N air filter which in turn bolts up to the throttle body of the FI system. I've seen the molds and the pieces that make up this stuff myself at Sam's shop and it is really a work of art... very cool filter system. But, the responses I've gotten an this thread show that both the Bendix as well as the AirFlow Performance fuel injection have been used. Sam told me very specifically that the Airflow performance one is the one his was designed for. So, I'd like information on this as well from those of you who have installed it. Please keep the information flowing on this topic so we can put it to bed with the correct information on this list. I'll give Sam James, Vans, and the Propeller Man a call early next week to run all of the information I've collected to that point by them. Any stuff sent "off line" will be inclued as well, but I won't tell who sent it... in case there are negatives which show up. Then I'll post the answers for all to see. jim Tampa, FL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 2001
From: "J D Newsum" <jdnewsum(at)qwest.net>
Subject: Re: Phone number??
I have heard many good things concerning the Bart Lalonde Aerosport Power engines. General question: are they identified as certified engines with Lycoming Mfg. data plate or as experimental with name plate removed? Doug Weiler wrote: > > > > > It is time to start looking for engines. I have read a lot about Bart > > Lalonde at Aerosport Power in Canada.=A0 Does anyone have his phone > number? > > > > Does he sell engines outright or do you have to have a core to trade in? > > What kind of price ranges are we talking about? > > > > I am looking at the IO-360 A1B6 200 HP. > > > > Is there any problems with taxes or tarrifs when ordering from Canada? > > Bart's number is 250-376-2955. > > Yes, you can buy an engine outright. That is what I did. He can build up > anything you want with whatever components you desire. Mine was a > 0-360-A1A, 180 hp, carb, oil filter, chrome job, gray paint, fine wire > plugs, all brand new components except an OH case. Price was $19,700 US. > You pay a small brokerage fee to handle the customs paperwork. I think that > was $75. Plus shipping by truck of course, which I think was less than $300 > to Wisconsin. > > Doug Weiler > > ================ > Doug Weiler > Hudson, WI > 715-386-1239 > dougweil(at)pressenter.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Tate" <tate(at)onlinemac.com>
Subject: Re: RE: RV4-List: Re: RV4-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 02/08/01
Date: Feb 09, 2001
I just learned there are two different dyna-focal mounts besides the old straight mount. Very confusing. Is there a way to know by engine number what mount it has? Does Van's support all three? Ed Tate -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv4-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv4-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 9:22 AM Subject: RV4-List: Re: RV4-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 02/08/01 --> RV4-List message posted by: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com In a message dated 2/8/01 11:55:46 PM Pacific Standard Time, rv4-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Chuck Rabaut" > > Hi Guys and Gals, > > I found out that the 0320 H2AD's won't hang on my dyna-focal mount (they > require a special dyna-focal mount). I'm looking for an engine with a few > hundred hours left before I have to learn over hauling. Can be an O-235, > O-290, or an O-320, I just need something in-expensive that will hook up to > my RV-4 dyna-focal mount. Any and all referrals would be greatly > appreciated. Thank you all, in advance, for your assistance. > > Chuck Remember the immortal words from the past "There is NO subistute for horse power " > wood prop on your RV4 > you would be aft CG with a 110lb passenger & no baggage. Tim Barnes N39TB > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com>
Subject: Interesting RV article index
Date: Feb 09, 2001
Here is a list of EAA articles and photos of RVs going back to 1977 with some additional links and information. http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/selecting/kits/rv-6.html Dave RV6A, wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RE: Propeller for Sam James Cowl UPDATE
Date: Feb 09, 2001
Thread-Topic: RV-List: RE: Propeller for Sam James Cowl UPDATE Thread-Index: AcCS0GccZnRdtIPqSwG71ARN1omDpAAA7tUA
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
First off, I'm planning on switching over to his cowling as a winter project next year on my flying RV-6. I've done a bit of research also... > this fact. If all of this is true, then the angled valve > engine must be 4" > shorter than the parallel valve 0-360. (is this true?). Nope, its the same length. The reason why the angle-valve engines require the prop extension is for clearance of the induction tubes on the IO-360's. They stick out a bit more than the parallel-valve induction tubes do, so the cowl has to be positioned 4" forward to allow for clearance. Since the induction tube clearance problem doesn't exist on the parallel engines, the nose of the cowl can be brought further aft, thus negating the need for the long and expensive prop. It may be necessary to put in a blister for the alternator. > Another question which has arisen is which Fuel Injection > system people have > used. For those not in tune with this question, the Holy Cowl > will not work > with a carburetor without extensive mods for the airbox and > airfilter (see > Randy Lervold's excellent site on this problem and how he addressed it > http://www.rv-8.com/) The standard Sam James Cowl has a > built in ram air > inlet which interfaces with a K&N air filter which in turn > bolts up to the > throttle body of the FI system. I've seen the molds and the > pieces that make > up this stuff myself at Sam's shop and it is really a work of > art... very > cool filter system. But, the responses I've gotten an this > thread show that > both the Bendix as well as the AirFlow Performance fuel > injection have been > used. Sam told me very specifically that the Airflow > performance one is the > one his was designed for. So, I'd like information on this > as well from > those of you who have installed it. Sam had the Airflow Performance people come up with an injection system that can retrofit to the 180hp engines and have the throttle body located where the bendix body would be on the IO-360. This was done so the cowl doesn't have to be modified if you use the Airflow FI with an O-360. Basically a 110 degree elbow bolts on to the sump and a smaller throttle body bolts on to the front of that. So, actually there are two different RV-specific injection systems, one that replaces a stock carb/airbox setup and one that replaces the carb with a bendix-like FI system. I probably won't switch over to fuel injection in which case I will have to use Van's scoop. > Please keep the information flowing on this topic so we can > put it to bed > with the correct information on this list. I'll give Sam > James, Vans, and > the Propeller Man a call early next week to run all of the > information I've > collected to that point by them. Any stuff sent "off line" > will be inclued > as well, but I won't tell who sent it... in case there are > negatives which > show up. Then I'll post the answers for all to see. So, to reiterate: if you have a O-360 with the C2YK prop, you can use Sam's cowling. If you want to keep the carb, he will make the cowling so that you can use Van's scoop. If you don't want the scoop but would rather have the smallish forward intake, you can retrofit a carb engine with the special Airflow Performance fuel injection designed for this application. If you have an IO-360 you must use the extended hub M2YR propeller. Bob Japundza RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DThomas773(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 09, 2001
Subject: propeller Question
This is one of those dumb questions. The MT propeller comes with either hydraulic and electric controls. Can an electrically controlled propeller be run on an engine with a solid crankshaft? Dennis Thomas RV-9A Emp ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 2001
From: ENewton57(at)AOL.COM
Subject: Re: stupid, *&%$ haha thing
I got one of these at work (which is not connected with Matronics) so I don't thinks its this list necessarily. Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS RV-6A (finish kit - Canopy) www.ericsrv6a.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 2001
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: Toe in anyone?
> >Dear -8 builders, after careful alignment of the main gear legs, and lots >of work later, I have measured the axles and find them toe in by 2.1 >degrees each. This is gut wrenching. Rechecking the gear legs, the leading >edges are dead nuts aligned and equal distant from a hole in the bottom of >the tail cone. I guess there must be some twist there somewhere. > >So, I screwed up and didn't check the axles, just the gear alignment. Now I >have to fix it. My questions are these: > >1. Has anyone finished one and flown it, with toe in? I know this is not a >car, but cars have toe in for stability, does this apply to us >taildraggers? If so, how much is the right amount? > >2. Can this much be corrected with 1 degree shims like on my Cessna? Is 2 >degrees too much? Will it bend axle bolts? > >thanks to all, > >Dan > I'll only address one question - is toe-in good for stability on taildraggers? Let's picture a taildragger going straight down the runway at a good speed. It has toe-in. Each tire is producing an inwards force as it rolls due to the toe-in. There is the same amount of weight on each tire, so there is an equal amount of inwards force produced by each one. Now, let's picture the aircraft starting to turn right just a bit (it doesn't matter why it is starting to turn, taildraggers just like to do that for no particular reason, as they are directionally unstable on the ground). The aircraft will lean to the left during the turn, and there is now more weight on the left tire than the right, so there is more inwards force from the left tire. This inwards force is ahead of the centre of gravity, so it tends to make the aircraft turn even sharper to the right, which makes the situation even worse. If the wheels are toed out, each tire will be producing a force towards the outside. Once that turn to the right starts, there will be more weight on the left tire, and it will tend to straighten the aircraft back out. However, I suspect that you would need a very large amount of toe-out to make a taildragger directional stable on the ground. But, every little bit helps, so toe-out is better than toe-in from a directional stability point of view. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt) Ottawa, Canada http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: Phone number??
Date: Feb 09, 2001
> > I have heard many good things concerning the Bart Lalonde Aerosport Power > > engines. General question: are they identified as certified engines with > > Lycoming Mfg. data plate or as experimental with name plate removed? > > > > Doug Weiler wrote: > > > > I don't know about the name plate but according to their website > http://www.aerosportpower.com/ > Aero Sport builds engines for experimental planes. Their parent company, > Pro Aero Engines, builds certified engines. The data plate indicates "Aero Sport Power", see http://www.rv-8.com/Engine.htm for a picture. Randy Lervold Aero Sport Power O-360 A1A www.rv-8.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Sweemer" <teetimeah64(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: 320-E2D engine
Date: Feb 09, 2001
Has anybody had a 0-320-E2D before? Is it a good engine for an RV-4? Tim RV4 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Elect. Wizzes
From: Scott.Fink(at)microchip.com
Date: Feb 09, 2001
02/09/2001 02:46:02 PM, Serialize complete at 02/09/2001 02:46:02 PM My answers, others may have different opinions: 1) A diode will last practically forever if you stay within the manufacturers specs for voltage and current. If you aren't sure if you are violating specs, you can write me back with the diode type and lamp type and I can look it up for you. 2) Diodes will be much lighter and much more reliable than a relay. A relay is a mechanical device that will wear out over time 3) I haven't gotten there yet, but your method sounds like a very good one that I very well may use I think your solution is both elegant and intelligent, as well as follows the KISS principle! Scott Fink RV6 Hanging aileron on left wing ----- Forwarded by Scott Fink/SMAD/US/Microchip on 02/09/2001 02:26 PM ----- RGray67968(at)AOL.COM Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com 02/08/2001 10:10 PM Please respond to rv-list To: rv-list(at)matronics.com cc: Subject: RV-List: Elect. Wizzes Here it is, I've installed 5 or 6 "idiot lights" in my 6 (boost pump on, engine alarm, flaps extended, canopy ajar, oil press, etc). I added a "test light" to verify the bulbs are good. Rather than using a relay..........I installed a diode on each light to prevent backfeed. Everything works great (in the basement) but now I'm wondering if I did the right thing. My questions are 1 - How long do diodes last? 2 - Should I have gone with relays instead? 3 - What have others done? Never too late to do it right!!! Thanks in advance. Rick Gray RV6QB (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm please archive ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman, Jim" <jnorman(at)yourdoctor.com>
Subject: stupid, *&%$ haha thing
Date: Feb 09, 2001
There is no question. This virus IS attached to this list. Our company software has followed its source. jim -----Original Message----- From: ENewton57(at)AOL.COM [mailto:ENewton57(at)AOL.COM] Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 12:43 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: stupid, *&%$ haha thing I got one of these at work (which is not connected with Matronics) so I don't thinks its this list necessarily. Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS RV-6A (finish kit - Canopy) www.ericsrv6a.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Gyros
Date: Feb 09, 2001
I do NOT recommend Century Instruments. They exhibit at OSH and therefore I thought they would be builder-friendly. When I purchased my rebuilt gyros I stated that they were going into a homebuilt and would not be used for several months. I did run them up each month with my shop vac. On the first flight, about 9 months ARO gryos, the DG was inop and the AG sticking. Century charged me $236 to rebuild the DG. I would have been much better off buying new SIgma Tec's -- cheaper overall and much better. GV -- I'd suggest you remove them from the Yellar Pages. Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 41 hours Hampshire, IL C38 -----Original Message----- From: menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com <menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com> Date: Friday, February 09, 2001 12:01 PM Subject: RV-List: Re: Gyros > > >Is Oshkosh a good place to buy gyros? With all this talk of having them >backordered, etc, just wondering if any listers have been able to get good >deals at OSH in recent years? I'm interested in vacuum gyros and would >consider used/refurb'd units if done by a reputable outfit for a good >price. > >--Mark Navratil >Cedar Rapids, Iowa >RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87" > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net>
Subject: Re: Phone number??
Date: Feb 09, 2001
Hello J D Newman, Bart lalonde at Aero Sport Power can see to it that you get a fully certified engine with all the proper papers etc. The price will reflect the usual certification costs incurred. If you would rather have an engine built to the exact same specifications but without the usual certification papers the price will reflect that difference. Should you have reason to believe that a "tweaked" engine using some non certifiable after market parts of some number, type or kind. Bart will be willing to discuss your ideas and try to help you get what you need. Give him a call. He will answer your questions about engine I. D. plates. The engine he did for me is certified with 0 time on the cases and remaining time (800 hr.)on the existing cylinders with the log updated etc. I have no affiliation with Bart or Aero Sport Power. I owe them only the respect that they earned. Happy Trails, Vapor Trails, that is.{:o)! Jim in Kelowna When dreams come true the sky is the limit. ----- Original Message ----- From: J D Newsum <jdnewsum(at)qwest.net> Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 10:54 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Phone number?? > > I have heard many good things concerning the Bart Lalonde Aerosport Power > engines. General question: are they identified as certified engines with > Lycoming Mfg. data plate or as experimental with name plate removed? > > Doug Weiler wrote: > > > > > > > > > It is time to start looking for engines. I have read a lot about Bart > > > Lalonde at Aerosport Power in Canada.=A0 Does anyone have his phone > > number? > > > > > > Does he sell engines outright or do you have to have a core to trade in? > > > What kind of price ranges are we talking about? > > > > > > I am looking at the IO-360 A1B6 200 HP. > > > > > > Is there any problems with taxes or tarrifs when ordering from Canada? > > > > Bart's number is 250-376-2955. > > > > Yes, you can buy an engine outright. That is what I did. He can build up > > anything you want with whatever components you desire. Mine was a > > 0-360-A1A, 180 hp, carb, oil filter, chrome job, gray paint, fine wire > > plugs, all brand new components except an OH case. Price was $19,700 US. > > You pay a small brokerage fee to handle the customs paperwork. I think that > > was $75. Plus shipping by truck of course, which I think was less than $300 > > to Wisconsin. > > > > Doug Weiler > > > > ================ > > Doug Weiler > > Hudson, WI > > 715-386-1239 > > dougweil(at)pressenter.com > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Re: Phone number??
Date: Feb 09, 2001
> > I have heard many good things concerning the Bart Lalonde Aerosport Power > engines. General question: are they identified as certified engines with > Lycoming Mfg. data plate or as experimental with name plate removed? > The data plate is an "Aerosport" engine with an Aerosport serial number. There is no difference in the workmanship, techniques, or components used in the "Aerosport" vs. Pro Aero's certified engines according to them. My understanding it is because of the "mix and match" affordability allowed by the experimental moniker and also I believe it also has something to do with Canadian vs. FAA regulations. Doug Weiler ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 2001
From: Earl Fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: 320-E2D engine
I have one on my RV4, however it is still being built. It will be fine for your RV4 and fits the dynafocal mount. Earl Tim Sweemer wrote: > > > Has anybody had a 0-320-E2D before? Is it a good engine for an RV-4? > > Tim > RV4 > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael Pilla" <mpilla(at)maine.rr.com>
Subject: Re: 320-E2D engine
Date: Feb 09, 2001
I have an O320-E2D, but I modified into a -D1A at overhaul time. The E2D can come with either a solid or hollow crank (fixed or constant speed prop). Also, you will need to exchange the accessory pad because the E2D is normally fitted to a Skyhawk and, therefore, does not need an engine-driven fuel pump whereas the RV will require an engine-driven fuel pump. IIRC, the exchange cost was very nominal - not an issue. If you are luck and get a hollow crank, then you could have a 150hp engine with the possibility of a constant speed prop. If you don't care, then stick with the standard engine (after swapping accessory cases). Besides, you could burn auto fuel. Michael Pilla ----- Original Message ----- From: Tim Sweemer <teetimeah64(at)hotmail.com> Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 4:26 PM Subject: RV-List: 320-E2D engine > > Has anybody had a 0-320-E2D before? Is it a good engine for an RV-4? > > Tim > RV4 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Subject: Cap. senders BNC specs.
Date: Feb 09, 2001
Thanks for the replies. This is clarely where the RV-list really shines! Might as well pay the extra couple of $'s for good quality connectors since it won't be easy to replace them later if needed. Regards, Are RV-8 Wings -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of C J Heitman Sent: February 9, 2001 12:20 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Cap. senders BNC specs. Are, My capacitive sender kit came with the bulkhead mounted receptacle but not the plug end for the cable (which also is not included with the interface module from Electronics International. The supplied BNC receptacle had a rather cheap looking formed center contact and the housing looked like a cheap, low quality die casting. I decided to replace them with quality Mil Spec Amphenol receptacles with machined pin since I had to order the plugs. The receptacles are designed for use in a pressure bulkhead but I sealed them with ProSeal on the inside of the tank anyway. I called EI and they told me it didn't matter if I used 50 or 75 ohm connectors. I ordered the Amphenol connectors from Mouser at www.mouser.com Here are the part numbers that I used: BNC Bulkhead Receptacle: Mouser #523-31-102 (Amphenol #31-102) $5.08 each (5/30/00) BNC Plug: Mouser #523-31-320 (Amphenol #31-320) $5.67 each I just checked the Mouser site and see that the receptacle is now $8.08 each. Chris Heitman Dousman WI RV-9A N94ME (reserved) Fuselage http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html -----Original Message----- Since my Capacative sender kit was misssig the BNC connectors, I have to order them from Amphenol Canada. I called Van's and told them they were missing, but they don't sell them or know where to get them - just that they "should be in the package"?!? No big deal though. The parts list that came with the kit shows BNC connectors called "AV BNC 31-236-RFX". Amphenol has a bunch of RFX connectors but only one called a 31-236 (without the RFX extension). Anyone know the proper part number? Or, anyone know if it should be a crimp style or plain solder style? Also, does it matter if it's 50 or 75 ohm? Even more interesting to know would be: Who packages these kits and sells them to Van's? I should be able to get the correct part or at least part number there. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net>
Subject: Re: RE: RV4-List: Re: RV4-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 02/08/01
Date: Feb 09, 2001
Hello Ed, If you have a copy of Van's Accessories Catalog 2000 handy, look at the bottom right corner of page 3 to the right side of the panel titled Engine Bolt Set you will find happiness there. Happy trails, Vapor trails, that is.{:o)! Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: Ed Tate <tate(at)onlinemac.com> Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 10:01 AM Subject: RV-List: RE: RV4-List: Re: RV4-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 02/08/01 > > I just learned there are two different dyna-focal mounts besides the old > straight mount. Very confusing. Is there a way to know by engine number > what mount it has? Does Van's support all three? > Ed Tate > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv4-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv4-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of > MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com > Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 9:22 AM > To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV4-List: Re: RV4-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 02/08/01 > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com > > In a message dated 2/8/01 11:55:46 PM Pacific Standard Time, > rv4-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: > > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Chuck Rabaut" > > > > Hi Guys and Gals, > > > > I found out that the 0320 H2AD's won't hang on my dyna-focal mount > (they > > require a special dyna-focal mount). I'm looking for an engine with a > few > > hundred hours left before I have to learn over hauling. Can be an O-235, > > O-290, or an O-320, I just need something in-expensive that will hook up > to > > my RV-4 dyna-focal mount. Any and all referrals would be greatly > > appreciated. Thank you all, in advance, for your assistance. > > > > Chuck > > > Remember the immortal words from the past "There is NO subistute for horse > power " > wood prop on your RV4 > > you would be aft CG with a 110lb passenger & no baggage. > > Tim Barnes > N39TB > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis /Fran Flamini" <flamini2(at)home.com>
Subject: Virus
Date: Feb 09, 2001
All this talk about virus's got me to run Norton and found nothing from either list. i open all messages but no attachments, Dennis RV-10 for the RV list, Tailwind race # 53 for the tailwind list. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 09, 2001
Subject: Re: propeller Question
I believe you will find the electric propellor uses a slip ring behind the prop to transfer power thru brushes (i.e hot props) so a solid crank is no problem. Stewart, RV4 Colo. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Pneumatic Drill help
Date: Feb 09, 2001
I have a "Sioux" or clone air drill I got from Avery years ago. Fortunately it lasted till my plane was flying, but leaving it out in the damp hangar (and probably insufficiently oiled during its life) has resulted in it freezing up. Not too sure how to get the thing apart or what would be involved in rebuilding it. Any help/advice would be appreciated. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Gyros
Date: Feb 09, 2001
On the same Gyro thread, I'd recommend thinking hard before getting an O/H unit unless you are going to put it in and fly it right away. I got a Mid-Continent O/H DG which failed within 6 months/90 hours of service. The warranty on this thing (and most O/H units as far as I know) starts at time of purchase and is usually short (90 days to 6 months) so if you install it during construction, chances are it'll be out of warranty by the time you first fly it. Basically this means you could buy something that fails the first day you fly it and you'd have no recourse. The reputable manufacturers of new units will let you activate the warranty when you first put it in service, as long as that falls within the shelf-life of the unit (usually 6 months). Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (poorer but wiser) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-6 FOR SALE
Date: Feb 10, 2001
Tail kit, wing kit, and fuselage kit. Tail complete minus fiberglass, firewall, spars, and F-404 completed. Everything primered inside. A&P IA built in Wichita Kansas. Must sale due to buying nearly completed RV-4.. Can build to suit for you (help you that is). Asking $8500.00. Please contact me online or offline at 316-721-5670 and ask for Todd. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Builder Assistance available!!
Date: Feb 10, 2001
Builder Assistance is now available in Wichita Kansas. Wiechman Aircraft Inc. has an opening available for any RV-series aircraft. Can help build entire kit to flying condition or help with any stage along the way. I am an Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic with Inspection Authorization and have more than 12 years experience with building metal aircraft. If you need assistance, please call Todd at 316-721-5670 and we can discuss your specific needs. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 2001
From: Fred Kunkel <rvator(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Pneumatic Drill help
Hi Randall, It's probably frozen because one or more of the vanes are broken. Contact me off-list & we can discuss it if you'd like to. Blue Skies! Randall Henderson wrote: > > I have a "Sioux" or clone air drill I got from Avery years ago. Fortunately > it lasted till my plane was flying, but leaving it out in the damp hangar > (and probably insufficiently oiled during its life) has resulted in it > freezing up. Not too sure how to get the thing apart or what would be > involved in rebuilding it. Any help/advice would be appreciated. > > Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs) > Portland, OR > http://www.edt.com/homewing > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LeastDrag93066(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 09, 2001
Subject: FM antenna (wingtip)
Hi All, According to Bob Archer, the VOR wingtip antenna will work well to receiver FM signals. So if you just have to have a FM radio, you can install a no drag antenna in the wingtip. Jim Ayers Less Drag Products, Inc. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com>
Subject: Phone number??
Date: Feb 09, 2001
And there is the option of Data Plate (Lycoming) but for "experimental" use. We got that when ours was "reworked" by Bart. Also new logs. Basically Bart seems to be very flexible and reasonable. I **think** if you want to go the 100% certified route, he can take you down that path as well. And by the way, the reworked engine that we sent to Bart looks at least as good (better??) than the new Lycoming that awaits completion of the airframe to wrap around it. James Happy Bart Customer (but have not started it yet) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of J D Newsum Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 1:54 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Phone number?? I have heard many good things concerning the Bart Lalonde Aerosport Power engines. General question: are they identified as certified engines with Lycoming Mfg. data plate or as experimental with name plate removed? Doug Weiler wrote: > > > > > It is time to start looking for engines. I have read a lot about Bart > > Lalonde at Aerosport Power in Canada.=A0 Does anyone have his phone > number? > > > > Does he sell engines outright or do you have to have a core to trade in? > > What kind of price ranges are we talking about? > > > > I am looking at the IO-360 A1B6 200 HP. > > > > Is there any problems with taxes or tarrifs when ordering from Canada? > > Bart's number is 250-376-2955. > > Yes, you can buy an engine outright. That is what I did. He can build up > anything you want with whatever components you desire. Mine was a > 0-360-A1A, 180 hp, carb, oil filter, chrome job, gray paint, fine wire > plugs, all brand new components except an OH case. Price was $19,700 US. > You pay a small brokerage fee to handle the customs paperwork. I think that > was $75. Plus shipping by truck of course, which I think was less than $300 > to Wisconsin. > > Doug Weiler > > ================ > Doug Weiler > Hudson, WI > 715-386-1239 > dougweil(at)pressenter.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 2001
From: bcbraem(at)home.com
Subject: Re: Phone number??
Randy-- You can get'em both ways. Boyd > > > > > I have heard many good things concerning the Bart Lalonde Aerosport > Power > > > engines. General question: are they identified as certified engines with > > > Lycoming Mfg. data plate or as experimental with name plate removed? > > > > > > Doug Weiler wrote: > > > > > > > I don't know about the name plate but according to their website > > http://www.aerosportpower.com/ > > Aero Sport builds engines for experimental planes. Their parent company, > > Pro Aero Engines, builds certified engines. > > The data plate indicates "Aero Sport Power", see > http://www.rv-8.com/Engine.htm for a picture. > > Randy Lervold > Aero Sport Power O-360 A1A > www.rv-8.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 09, 2001
Subject: Re: Alodine or not
In a message dated 2/9/01 10:51:14 AM Pacific Standard Time, bertrv6(at)yahoo.com writes: << I was curious as to one of the messages said, you will need a heck of a big tank.... Alodine is something you spray or how is it applied?>> Applying alodine prior to painting is a simple process. It begins with bare aluminum. Try it on a small piece of aluminum first so you get the drill. Do this in the shade with surfaces cool to the touch. First step is to completely abrade the surfaces using Scotchbrite pads to break the gloss finish (not so hard that you remove the alclad). Rinse all surfaces completely with clean water. Apply the phosphoric acid prep solution with a sponge keeping all of the areas wet. Rinse all surfaces completely with clean water. You should have a water break free surface, do not allow to dry. Apply the alodine solution with a sponge (although you may be able to spray it - I've not tried) keeping all of the areas wet. Fresh solution should be used and it will act quickly to promote a light golden brown oxide layer. Do not let dry. After the gold develops rinse all surfaces completely with clean water. As you go blow all surfaces and seams dry (inside out) to ensure that all of the solution is driven off. Allow to dry completely. Paint immediately using a good epoxy primer (my guy used Sterling #1201 but there are many others). Apply top coats as soon as possible as recommended by primer manufacturer. << I understand, you do not have to use the product before painting, after is primed?>> Immediately between bare metal and paint. It prevents filliform corrosion which can form under urethane top coats. << Any one is familiar, what a product that is being advertised today, which would not required even pri- ming? just clean the plane, and apply the paint.. their paint of course, but that sound great if it works. >> None that I would trust my airplane to. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 2001
From: old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Pneumatic Drill help
I had a somewhat same experience with a air drill of mine a while ago..I loaned it to someone, who left it in the rair for a week or two...and when it came back, it was "frozen" also..I opened a big can of marvel mystery oil, and submerged the drill for a couple of days in that...then put oil and drill in the over at 200, for an hour..then carefully started turning it..it solwly started to turn freely, and whem I put air to it, it blew "stuff" all over me, and the shop, but it took off running, and when I took it apart to check, just a little rubbing with scotch brite..(old friend) took care of any problems it had...been working fine for about 6months now....good luck! Randall Henderson wrote: > > I have a "Sioux" or clone air drill I got from Avery years ago. Fortunately > it lasted till my plane was flying, but leaving it out in the damp hangar > (and probably insufficiently oiled during its life) has resulted in it > freezing up. Not too sure how to get the thing apart or what would be > involved in rebuilding it. Any help/advice would be appreciated. > > Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs) > Portland, OR > http://www.edt.com/homewing > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 10, 2001
Subject: Re: Alodine or not
I performed the entire process to my tail section. Like most builders, I found an easier process to prime. After trying many, I ended up with Variprime-sticks well and much quicker and easier than the acid, alodine, and epoxy. Bob in Arkansas, wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis /Fran Flamini" <flamini2(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: I'm still looking for an engine
Date: Feb 08, 2001
Chuck, i have a bare case, where are you located? Dennis Flamini, RV-10 Chicago ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 8:31 AM Subject: RV-List: I'm still looking for an engine > > Hi Guys and Gals, > > I found out that the 0320 H2AD's won't hang on my dyna-focal mount (they > require a special dyna-focal mount). I'm looking for an engine with a few > hundred hours left before I have to learn over hauling. Can be an O-235, > O-290, or an O-320, I just need something in-expensive that will hook up to > my RV-4 dyna-focal mount. Any and all referrals would be greatly > appreciated. Thank you all, in advance, for your assistance. > > Chuck > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "WALTER KERR" <KERRJB(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Gyros
Date: Feb 10, 2001
Dennis, I agree whole heartily that Century Instruments is a losing proposition. I bought 5 instruments from them. Two went belly up in the first 17 hours. I was barely out of warranty (1 year) and they charged me dearly to repair. I spoke to the Mgr (Joel) at Oshkosh, he wrote himself a note and said he would look into it and call me. Never heard a peep from him. WILL NOT BUY CENTURY AGAIN!! Bernie Kerr, 6A, flying, SE Fla > > I do NOT recommend Century Instruments. They exhibit at OSH and therefore I > thought they would be builder-friendly. When I purchased my rebuilt gyros I > stated that they were going into a homebuilt and would not be used for > several months. I did run them up each month with my shop vac. > > On the first flight, about 9 months ARO gryos, the DG was inop and the AG > sticking. Century charged me $236 to rebuild the DG. I would have been > much better off buying new SIgma Tec's -- cheaper overall and much better. > > GV -- I'd suggest you remove them from the Yellar Pages. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "lesliebwilliams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Propeller for Sam James Cowl
Date: Feb 10, 2001
Jim, Bob, and others, I think that you will need the extended hub propeller for either the O-360 or IO-360, parallel or angle valve engine, unless Sam James has modified Steve Barnard's Holy Cowl design. Steve developed the Holy Cowl from an original RV-6/6A cowling which required a four inch extension for a fixed pitch prop, or an extended hub (MY2K etc.) constant speed prop. Then, Van's offered an optional shorter cowl for the standard hub constant speed prop (CY2K, etc). The shorter cowl is now the standard from Van's, the longer cowl being discontinued several years ago. Les Williams/RV6-A N24LW ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 10, 2001
Subject: Re: tampa transition snf
Dear Listers, Mike Seager has just informed me of the dates he will be in Tampa, the week prior to sun n fun. he wanted me to schedule 3 days of transition training for him. I assume he will be too tired to fly when he arrives on the 2nd of April, so we will plan for April 3,4,5 to do the training. those interested in planning their vacation around this time to take training, need to read mikes statement about being current. below. please contact me at the numbers below to get a copy of mikes schedule so I can complete it. again I say, I will try my best to accommodate everyone's time slot, but you all know it will be impossible to get everyone happy. Also, I'm in the process of moving, so I'll have extra bedroom for Mike and his dad this year, I don't need to put him up in a hotel this year, so no hotel donation will be asked for. please read the statement Mike made below, thanks, Scott Reviere Tampa, rv6a Hi Scott, I will be there on April 2 thru the 6. Just a reminder that the guys who are flying should be current with a medical, pilots license, and flight review. No tire kickers. See you soon and hope you get your plane ready. Mike ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote: > Mike > do you have the dates you will be down here yet? many builders trying to plan > their vacations around your schedule. > it doesn't look like I'll be able to find hanger room to get the wings on. i > might not be ready for test flying when you get here, but we can still go > fishing. > keep in touch > Scott reviere > 813-932-3995 off > 813-871-9050 hm > 813-879-0020 fx > 813-267-9943 cell ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kdh347(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 10, 2001
Subject: Re: west palm beach
Hi all, Im going to be in the west palm area from 2-10 to 2-15. Im building a -6 and if anyone has a project going or a finished RV , I'd like to get in touch and see it. Thanks, Ken Heady E-mail kdh347(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2001
From: Bill Izard <bill(at)izard.co.nz>
Subject: Re: west palm beach
Please remove me from your Mailing List. I`m get 40- 50 emails from your company each day ,all I want is Tailwind information Regards Bill Izard New Zealand > >Hi all, > Im going to be in the west palm area from 2-10 to 2-15. Im building a -6 >and if anyone has a project going or a finished RV , I'd like to get in >touch and see it. > > Thanks, Ken Heady > > E-mail kdh347(at)aol.com > > ------------------------- Izard Industries Ltd P.O.Box 477 Masterton New Zealand The Izard Family http://mysite.xtra.co.nz/~izard/page1.html Phone 64 6 3788862 Fax 64 6 3788649 Mobile 025 463 254 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2001
From: Bill Izard <bill(at)izard.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Propeller for Sam James Cowl
Please remove me from your Mailing List. I`m get 40- 50 emails from your company each day ,all I want is Tailwind information Regards Bill Izard > > >Jim, Bob, and others, > >I think that you will need the extended hub propeller for either the O-360 >or IO-360, parallel or angle valve engine, unless Sam James has modified >Steve Barnard's Holy Cowl design. Steve developed the Holy Cowl from an >original RV-6/6A cowling which required a four inch extension for a fixed >pitch prop, or an extended hub (MY2K etc.) constant speed prop. Then, >Van's offered an optional shorter cowl for the standard hub constant speed >prop (CY2K, etc). The shorter cowl is now the standard from Van's, the >longer cowl being discontinued several years ago. > >Les Williams/RV6-A N24LW > > ------------------------- Izard Industries Ltd P.O.Box 477 Masterton New Zealand The Izard Family http://mysite.xtra.co.nz/~izard/page1.html Phone 64 6 3788862 Fax 64 6 3788649 Mobile 025 463 254 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2001
From: Bill Izard <bill(at)izard.co.nz>
Subject: Re: tampa transition snf
Please remove me from your Mailing List. I`m get 40- 50 emails from your company each day ,all I want is Tailwind information Regards Bill Izard > >Dear Listers, >Mike Seager has just informed me of the dates he will be in Tampa, the week >prior to sun n fun. he wanted me to schedule 3 days of transition training >for him. I assume he will be too tired to fly when he arrives on the 2nd of >April, so we will plan for April 3,4,5 to do the training. >those interested in planning their vacation around this time to take >training, need to read mikes statement about being current. below. >please contact me at the numbers below to get a copy of mikes schedule so I >can complete it. again I say, I will try my best to accommodate everyone's >time slot, but you all know it will be impossible to get everyone happy. >Also, I'm in the process of moving, so I'll have extra bedroom for Mike and >his dad this year, I don't need to put him up in a hotel this year, so no >hotel donation will be asked for. >please read the statement Mike made below, thanks, Scott Reviere Tampa, >rv6a > > >Hi Scott, >I will be there on April 2 thru the 6. Just a >reminder that the guys who are flying should be current with a medical, pilots >license, and flight review. No tire kickers. See you soon and hope you get >your >plane ready. Mike > > >ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote: > > > Mike > > do you have the dates you will be down here yet? many builders trying to >plan > > their vacations around your schedule. > > it doesn't look like I'll be able to find hanger room to get the wings > on. i > > might not be ready for test flying when you get here, but we can still go > > fishing. > > keep in touch > > Scott reviere > > 813-932-3995 off > > 813-871-9050 hm > > 813-879-0020 fx > > 813-267-9943 cell > > ------------------------- Izard Industries Ltd P.O.Box 477 Masterton New Zealand The Izard Family http://mysite.xtra.co.nz/~izard/page1.html Phone 64 6 3788862 Fax 64 6 3788649 Mobile 025 463 254 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2001
From: Bill Izard <bill(at)izard.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Gyros
Please remove me from your Mailing List. I`m get 40- 50 emails from your company each day ,all I want is Tailwind information Regards Bill Izard New Zealand > >Dennis, > >I agree whole heartily that Century Instruments is a losing proposition. I >bought 5 instruments from them. Two went belly up in the first 17 hours. I >was barely out of warranty (1 year) and they charged me dearly to repair. I >spoke to the Mgr (Joel) at Oshkosh, he wrote himself a note and said he >would look into it and call me. Never heard a peep from him. WILL NOT BUY >CENTURY AGAIN!! > >Bernie Kerr, 6A, flying, SE Fla > > > > I do NOT recommend Century Instruments. They exhibit at OSH and therefore >I > > thought they would be builder-friendly. When I purchased my rebuilt gyros >I > > stated that they were going into a homebuilt and would not be used for > > several months. I did run them up each month with my shop vac. > > > > On the first flight, about 9 months ARO gryos, the DG was inop and the AG > > sticking. Century charged me $236 to rebuild the DG. I would have been > > much better off buying new SIgma Tec's -- cheaper overall and much better. > > > > GV -- I'd suggest you remove them from the Yellar Pages. > > > > ------------------------- Izard Industries Ltd P.O.Box 477 Masterton New Zealand The Izard Family http://mysite.xtra.co.nz/~izard/page1.html Phone 64 6 3788862 Fax 64 6 3788649 Mobile 025 463 254 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 10, 2001
Subject: wing jig level-6 pre drilled skins
I need some thoughts on the EXACT level of my wing jig. It seems that I am close but not perfect. I have the impression from the plans that this is very important. I can understand. However in trying to get this baby perfect when the main is exact then the plumb lines are off slightly. Yes they (string) are though and not touching bottom spar, but are not exact (center of hole in bottom spar). I have 3/16 holes drilled for bottom hole plumb line. I re-measured these and they are according to plans. Am I correct to make sure the MAIN spar is level both span and diag. and just keep an eye on the plumb lines to make sure they don't shift during drilling of ribs? Thanks guys, Bob in Ark and I won't ax any questions when doing the other wing :) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 10, 2001
Subject: Re: I'm still looking for an engine
Try Trade a Plane!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2001
From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: Re: Gyros
Bill, You have to remove yourself from this list. Go to: http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/index.htm and click on the subscription form and follow the directions. Replying to the list won't do anything to get you removed. From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Sat, Feb 10, 2001 11:03 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Gyros Please remove me from your Mailing List. I`m get 40- 50 emails from your company each day ,all I want is Tailwind information Regards Bill Izard New Zealand > >Dennis, > >I agree whole heartily that Century Instruments is a losing proposition. I >bought 5 instruments from them. Two went belly up in the first 17 hours. I >was barely out of warranty (1 year) and they charged me dearly to repair. I >spoke to the Mgr (Joel) at Oshkosh, he wrote himself a note and said he >would look into it and call me. Never heard a peep from him. WILL NOT BUY >CENTURY AGAIN!! > >Bernie Kerr, 6A, flying, SE Fla > > > > I do NOT recommend Century Instruments. They exhibit at OSH and therefore >I > > thought they would be builder-friendly. When I purchased my rebuilt gyros >I > > stated that they were going into a homebuilt and would not be used for > > several months. I did run them up each month with my shop vac. > > > > On the first flight, about 9 months ARO gryos, the DG was inop and the AG > > sticking. Century charged me $236 to rebuild the DG. I would have been > > much better off buying new SIgma Tec's -- cheaper overall and much better. > > > > GV -- I'd suggest you remove them from the Yellar Pages. > > > > ------------------------- Izard Industries Ltd P.O.Box 477 Masterton New Zealand The Izard Family http://mysite.xtra.co.nz/~izard/page1.html Phone 64 6 3788862 Fax 64 6 3788649 Mobile 025 463 254 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 10, 2001
Subject: Re: Newbie construction question
In a message dated 2/10/01 11:46:36 AM Pacific Standard Time, jjewell(at)okanagan.net writes: << The trainee should most likely use the gun and you use the bar >> I strongly second that. I found that it was much easier to teach my wife to run the gun than to buck. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, finish kit stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: wing jig level-6 pre drilled skins
Date: Feb 10, 2001
Bob, It's pretty important that the main spar be level in both directions. If you've located the holes accurately and have not riveted the main ribs to the main spar then there should be enough "flex" in the rear spar that you can position it and get the string through the middle of the hole in the rear spar. I drilled the holes in the rear spar with the smallest possible drill bit that would allow me to pass the fishing line through it and still have a little clearance around the line. Make sure you clamp the rear spar to some supports so it doesn't move for/aft. It's also important to have something to support the middle of the rear spar otherwise the main spar will sag at this point. Follow the links for the wings on my web site to see the method I used. Mike Nellis RV-6 Gooping up the tanks Plainfield, IL (LOT) http://vondane.com/mnellis > I need some thoughts on the EXACT level of my wing jig. It seems that I am > close but not perfect. I have the impression from the plans that this is very > important. I can understand. However in trying to get this baby perfect when > the main is exact then the plumb lines are off slightly. Yes they (string) > are though and not touching bottom spar, but are not exact (center of hole in > bottom spar). I have 3/16 holes drilled for bottom hole plumb line. I > re-measured these and they are according to plans. Am I correct to make sure > the MAIN spar is level both span and diag. and just keep an eye on the plumb > lines to make sure they don't shift during drilling of ribs? Thanks guys, Bob > in Ark and I won't ax any questions when doing the other wing :) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2001
From: joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV6A Fuel Selector Valve
When trying to work on something behind the panel I find myself laying on my back between the two control sticks with the fuel selector stuck in my spine. I dont have the center counsel as per print. My question is has anyone lowered the fuel slector about three inches (just below the spar) if this were possible working behind the panel would almost be tolerable. Joe RV6A 135 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kdh347(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 10, 2001
Subject: Re: Newbie construction question
A lot of it can be done alone,but dont fool yourself,your going to need some help once and a while. I found very quickly,that when you hold the gun and try to reach around the piece to hold the bar, that usally bad things happen. Try joining your local EAA chapter. The guys are almost always eager to help. The best part of building are the friends you'll make.. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2001
From: "J D Newsum" <jdnewsum(at)qwest.net>
Subject: Alodine or not
Several people have referenced Sterling 1201 primer on the list. I have searched on the net for this product but can't seem to find any data on it. Can anyone provide information about who the manufacturer is, where can it be purchased etc.. Thanks in advance -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Vanremog(at)AOL.COM Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 9:45 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Alodine or not In a message dated 2/9/01 10:51:14 AM Pacific Standard Time, bertrv6(at)yahoo.com writes: << I was curious as to one of the messages said, you will need a heck of a big tank.... Alodine is something you spray or how is it applied?>> Applying alodine prior to painting is a simple process. It begins with bare aluminum. Try it on a small piece of aluminum first so you get the drill. Do this in the shade with surfaces cool to the touch. First step is to completely abrade the surfaces using Scotchbrite pads to break the gloss finish (not so hard that you remove the alclad). Rinse all surfaces completely with clean water. Apply the phosphoric acid prep solution with a sponge keeping all of the areas wet. Rinse all surfaces completely with clean water. You should have a water break free surface, do not allow to dry. Apply the alodine solution with a sponge (although you may be able to spray it - I've not tried) keeping all of the areas wet. Fresh solution should be used and it will act quickly to promote a light golden brown oxide layer. Do not let dry. After the gold develops rinse all surfaces completely with clean water. As you go blow all surfaces and seams dry (inside out) to ensure that all of the solution is driven off. Allow to dry completely. Paint immediately using a good epoxy primer (my guy used Sterling #1201 but there are many others). Apply top coats as soon as possible as recommended by primer manufacturer. << I understand, you do not have to use the product before painting, after is primed?>> Immediately between bare metal and paint. It prevents filliform corrosion which can form under urethane top coats. << Any one is familiar, what a product that is being advertised today, which would not required even pri- ming? just clean the plane, and apply the paint.. their paint of course, but that sound great if it works. >> None that I would trust my airplane to. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2001
From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: RV6A Fuel Selector Valve
Hey Joe, Your supposed to have all the bugs worked out by 135hrs ;-) I know....there never really finished. I installed my Andair valve down about 1 inch with no problems. When something requires work underneath, it's not a problem for me. I let my partner (Dad) do it. He's smaller than I am so he gets the job :-) Laird RV-6 155 hrs (and flying again after the hawk strike) SoCal From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Sat, Feb 10, 2001 2:37 PM Subject: RV-List: RV6A Fuel Selector Valve When trying to work on something behind the panel I find myself laying on my back between the two control sticks with the fuel selector stuck in my spine. I dont have the center counsel as per print. My question is has anyone lowered the fuel slector about three inches (just below the spar) if this were possible working behind the panel would almost be tolerable. Joe RV6A 135 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N95MF(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 10, 2001
Subject: Re: Alodine or not
In a message dated 2/10/01 4:59:54 PM Central Standard Time, jdnewsum(at)qwest.net writes: << Several people have referenced Sterling 1201 primer on the list. I have searched on the net for this product but can't seem to find any data on it. Can anyone provide information about who the manufacturer is, where can it be purchased etc.. Thanks in advance >> Sterling 1201G is a primer that meets the latest MIL-spec P-23377G. Primers that meet this mil-spec have excellent corrosion protection without top coating. Both for steel and aluminum. The telephone number for Detco Sterling is 1-800-845-0023. Several companies make a primer that meets this mil-spec. Randolph, U.S. Paint, PRC-DeSoto, and I believe Sherman Williams all make primers that meet this mil-spec. Web-searching you can find them all. Randolph had the best price when I looked, but I don't know about differences in quality/application ease. Mark Goldberg RV-8 N982RV 130 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "WALTER KERR" <KERRJB(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV6A Fuel Selector Valve
Date: Feb 10, 2001
Hi Joe, I did it and super glad I did considering how much time I have spent laying on my back under there. Not only does it save my back, but it keeps me from cracking the valve and have it come of at the most in-opportune time. I also painted the bottom of the forward fuselage skin which really helps me see things under there. I will send you a picture of my valve off line. Bernie Kerr> > When trying to work on something behind the panel I > find myself laying on my back between the two control > sticks with the fuel selector stuck in my spine. I > dont have the center counsel as per print. My question > is has anyone lowered the fuel slector about three > inches (just below the spar) if this were possible > working behind the panel would almost be tolerable. > Joe > > RV6A 135 hrs > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2001
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Alodine or not
J D I purchase Sterling U-1201 (primer) & U-1202 (catylist) at a local marine supply distributer. (Marritt Marine) Marritt also manufactures motor yachts (big $$$$) They use this on all the aluminium parts on their yachts. It is the same Mil Spec paint used in aircraft. I like the idea that a well known yacht manufacturer uses this stuff on equipment used in a salt water environment. That said, ALL the Mil Spec epoxy primers are great! I will send you (and any other lister who requests it) more info off list.(It's in HTML format, which the list doesn't like) Charlie Kuss > > Several people have referenced Sterling 1201 primer on the list. I have > searched on the net for this product but can't seem to find any data on it. > Can anyone provide information about who the manufacturer is, where can it > be purchased etc.. > Thanks in advance ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "ray sheffield" <1052a(at)prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: RV6A Fuel Selector Valve
Date: Feb 10, 2001
Joe, I put my adair valve on a bracket mounted on the floor. Worked out fine, rv6a 45 hrs. ray ----- Original Message ----- From: "joe wiza" <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2001 4:57 PM Subject: RV-List: RV6A Fuel Selector Valve > > When trying to work on something behind the panel I > find myself laying on my back between the two control > sticks with the fuel selector stuck in my spine. I > dont have the center counsel as per print. My question > is has anyone lowered the fuel slector about three > inches (just below the spar) if this were possible > working behind the panel would almost be tolerable. > Joe > > RV6A 135 hrs > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2001
From: bcbraem(at)home.com
Subject: Re: RV6A Fuel Selector Valve
joe-- My fuel control is rigged that way (below the spar). But, you're missing the obvious--get some one younger to do the gymnastics (tell me about those "golden years"). Come over and look at my set up, as I have the fuel valve cover off. Boyd N600SS > > > When trying to work on something behind the panel I > find myself laying on my back between the two control > sticks with the fuel selector stuck in my spine. I > dont have the center counsel as per print. My question > is has anyone lowered the fuel slector about three > inches (just below the spar) if this were possible > working behind the panel would almost be tolerable. > Joe > > RV6A 135 hrs > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.)
Date: Feb 10, 2001
Subject: Re: Tilted gyro - can't find one
Does Sigma tec make one that is electric? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Donald R. Eaves" <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com>
Subject: Alodine or not
Date: Feb 10, 2001
Try this: http://www.detcosterling.com/slprime.htm -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of J D Newsum Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2001 4:59 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Alodine or not Several people have referenced Sterling 1201 primer on the list. I have searched on the net for this product but can't seem to find any data on it. Can anyone provide information about who the manufacturer is, where can it be purchased etc.. Thanks in advance -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Vanremog(at)AOL.COM Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 9:45 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Alodine or not In a message dated 2/9/01 10:51:14 AM Pacific Standard Time, bertrv6(at)yahoo.com writes: << I was curious as to one of the messages said, you will need a heck of a big tank.... Alodine is something you spray or how is it applied?>> Applying alodine prior to painting is a simple process. It begins with bare aluminum. Try it on a small piece of aluminum first so you get the drill. Do this in the shade with surfaces cool to the touch. First step is to completely abrade the surfaces using Scotchbrite pads to break the gloss finish (not so hard that you remove the alclad). Rinse all surfaces completely with clean water. Apply the phosphoric acid prep solution with a sponge keeping all of the areas wet. Rinse all surfaces completely with clean water. You should have a water break free surface, do not allow to dry. Apply the alodine solution with a sponge (although you may be able to spray it - I've not tried) keeping all of the areas wet. Fresh solution should be used and it will act quickly to promote a light golden brown oxide layer. Do not let dry. After the gold develops rinse all surfaces completely with clean water. As you go blow all surfaces and seams dry (inside out) to ensure that all of the solution is driven off. Allow to dry completely. Paint immediately using a good epoxy primer (my guy used Sterling #1201 but there are many others). Apply top coats as soon as possible as recommended by primer manufacturer. << I understand, you do not have to use the product before painting, after is primed?>> Immediately between bare metal and paint. It prevents filliform corrosion which can form under urethane top coats. << Any one is familiar, what a product that is being advertised today, which would not required even pri- ming? just clean the plane, and apply the paint.. their paint of course, but that sound great if it works. >> None that I would trust my airplane to. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 11, 2001
Subject: Re: wing jig level-6 pre drilled skins
When I get the strings exact then the spar is not exact. I am not speaking of lengthwise but other... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net>
Subject: Re: RV6A Fuel Selector Valve
Date: Jan 19, 2000
(just below the spar) if this were possible > working behind the panel would almost be tolerable. Lowering the selector has been done and also affords a place to put your (or pax) foot to get in and not step all over the selector. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2001
From: Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz>
Subject: Re: Newbie construction question
Dave Berryhill wrote: > Since I'm single with no rivet-buckers (family) in the house, I was > wondering how much of the riveting of a 6A or 9A can be done with one > person? My estimate would be about 98% on the RV-6(A). Less if your arms are short, and less again if you aren't confident in your ability to operate both the gun and bucking bar at arms length. I needed help with closing the HS and wings, and skinning the fuselage. Note that it only takes 10 minutes to train a rivet bucker. Explain what needs doing, including communication between rivetter and bucker. Drill, debur, (for flush rivets, also dimple) about 5-10 holes in some scrap aluminium. Clamp it to the work bench and drive the rivets. When you have 3-4 in a row that are all good, move to the plane. Frank RV-6 Finish Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2001
From: "J D Newsum" <jdnewsum(at)qwest.net>
Subject: stupid, *&%$ haha thing
I have been a daily lurker on the list for months (checking the list at least once a day) and never received the "haha thing". Last Friday I posted a reply and since have been receiving the "snow white haha thing" every time I check the list. My suspicion is that either the RV list is infected or someone who posts regularly on the list unknowingly has the virus on their computer and keeps infecting the list. Does anyone know which anitvirus program will detect and clear this thing? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com>
Subject: stupid, *&%$ haha thing
Date: Feb 11, 2001
I've been told to see who was the sender of the email message just prior to the HA Ha email. Notfy that person they have the virus. That's the person that has it. If you don't open it--you wont get it. Just delete it and move on. Greg Tanner -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of J D Newsum Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2001 8:32 AM Subject: Virus on the RV-List: stupid, *&%$ haha thing I have been a daily lurker on the list for months (checking the list at least once a day) and never received the "haha thing". Last Friday I posted a reply and since have been receiving the "snow white haha thing" every time I check the list. My suspicion is that either the RV list is infected or someone who posts regularly on the list unknowingly has the virus on their computer and keeps infecting the list. Does anyone know which anitvirus program will detect and clear this thing? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2001
From: Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Re: stupid, *&%$ haha thing
I received this virus several times. My old Norton did not work. I updated to Norton System Works 2000 and it detects it with updated virus definitions. ( I will be getting 2001 because of a change in operating systems and its automatic update in the background whenever you are on the internet) J D Newsum wrote: > > I have been a daily lurker on the list for months (checking the list at > least once a day) and never received the "haha thing". Last Friday I > posted a reply and since have been receiving the "snow white haha thing" > every time I check the list. My suspicion is that either the RV list is > infected or someone who posts regularly on the list unknowingly has the > virus on their computer and keeps infecting the list. Does anyone know which > anitvirus program will detect and clear this thing? > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: windsaloft(at)rmisp.com (Terri Watson)
Subject: Henry Gorgas Feb Class - short report
Date: Feb 11, 2001
New to this list, new to building. After too many years of watching everyone else build RV's, and getting to fly them all, am taking them up on their offers of local expertise, advice, and help. Still, felt overwhelmed at just getting going, and as a woman, intimidated by the intense array of tools and terms absolutely new to me. Maybe gender doesn't have anything to do with it, but, like any newbie, taking the first step has been a long time coming due to lack of confidence. Took a pilgrammage to mecca -- uh, I mean Van's -- to pick up my emp kit, see the factory, see if I could see a bunch of quickbuilds and planes and pieces and parts --- had a great tour which greatly reduced my anxiety -- it really is just a bunch of little pieces and one step at a time. Then, went to Henry Gorgas' for my two day intro class on how to stick the pieces together without destroying them, and to even make them look nice. I am happy to report that I made lots of mistakes on the practice exercises so I don't have to make them on my plane. Well, at least THOSE mistakes..... Had a great time, Henry is adamant that you learn enough to confidently get going, has a strong desire to make you good and to make sure that you get what you need out of the workshop, as well as what he thinks you need to learn. Could not have asked for more and better, and left there absolutely confident that I could get going and do okay. Highly recommend his workshop, will answer individual queries if desired. Henry's number: 1-503-472-5187. Workshops 2 days, $270, bring your own lunch, he'll bury you in coffee, sodas, and cookies. Terri Watson RV-6 Empennage inventoried and in the shop, collecting tools Lander, Wyoming ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com>
Subject: engines
Date: Feb 11, 2001
Can anybody tell me whether a dynafocal mounted O-320 uses the same mount on a dynafocal mounted O-360? In other words, could a person running an O-320 D1A for example use his same mount for an O-360 A1A or A4A? Greg Tanner RV-9A Empennage (Wings due Apr 2) SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Allen Checca" <achecca(at)concentric.net>
Subject: How do I get the crates off the truck
Date: Feb 11, 2001
I've ordered the 6A quick build kit and I'm trying to figure out how to get a 193" long 880 lb crate off the truck. How did others do it? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "WALTER KERR" <KERRJB(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: How do I get the crates off the truck
Date: Feb 11, 2001
Allen, What worked for us last one was to pick it up at the truck dock on a low trailer(car hauler type). The trucking conpany put it on the trailer for us. When we got it to the hangar, we rounded up some friends and slid it off with leverage and pipes for rollers. Bernie ----- Original Message ----- From: "Allen Checca" <achecca(at)concentric.net> Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2001 12:49 PM Subject: RV-List: How do I get the crates off the truck > > > I've ordered the 6A quick build kit and I'm trying to figure out how to get > a 193" long 880 lb crate off the truck. How did others do it? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: Bend the stick
Date: Feb 11, 2001
I need to bend the front stick slightly forward. Anyone have any advice on how best to do this? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2001
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: New email address
Just in case I might still have a couple of friends left on this list ;-) I have changed my email address. OLD: jsflyrv(at)teleport.com NEW: jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net Jerry springer jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com>
Subject: Eustice Bowhay Throttle Quadrant Pics
Date: Feb 11, 2001
Recently there was some discussion about using a left hand throttle quadrant in an RV6. Eustace Bowhay sent me some pictures of his installation and I scanned them for my inclusion in my web site. Additionally there are a couple of nice pictures of Eustace's plane with and without floats and a nice shot of Eustace and Jon Johanson in formation somewhere in Canada. Follow the links here to get to the pictures. http://vondane.com/mnellis Mike Nellis Stinson 108-2 N9666K RV-6 N699BM (res) Gooping up the second tank Plainfield, IL (LOT) http://vondane.com/mnellis ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2001
From: bcbraem(at)home.com
Subject: Re: Propeller for Sam James Cowl
The last time I checked Team Rocket's website, they were selling the M2YR-1BF for $5,800. > > > Listers, > > I'm interested in putting a Sam James (aka Barnard) Holy Cowl on my 6A. Got > the carb issue fixed by going with Aerosport Fuel Inj. Now comes the next > problem! What kind of constant speed propeller does it require?. Apparently > it requires a 4" hub, meaning that I have several choices: > > 1) Use a "standard" Hartzell C2YK model and cut the cowl 4", but now I have > serious clearances (I think) with alternator, etc. > 2) Buy the Hartzell C2YK model and put a 4" spacer in it (seems to be > discouraged by some propeller experts I've talked to). > 3) Buy a Hartzell M2YR-1BF/766A-2. This is a constant speed prop with a 4" > thick hub (moves the prop 4" further away from the crankshaft flange). This > propeller from the Propeller Man Steve White in Orlando, FL is nearly > $8,000. > > I've talked to everybody at Vans except for Van himself, and this is as far > as they can help. I've talked to Sam James himself, and this is as far as > he can help. Now I'm turning to the real experts....those of you who have > actually done it. > > So, if anybody out there has put a Holy Cowl or Sam James Cowl on their 4, 6 > or 8, please let me know what propeller you used. If anybody else knows of > someone who is not on this list that has done this mod, please put me in > touch with them. > > jim > Tampa, FL > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2001
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: engines
Greg Tanner wrote: > > > Can anybody tell me whether a dynafocal mounted O-320 uses the same mount on > a dynafocal mounted O-360? In other words, could a person running an O-320 > D1A for example use his same mount for an O-360 A1A or A4A? > > Greg Tanner > RV-9A Empennage (Wings due Apr 2) > SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED > Greg I originally had a O-320 E2D on my RV-6 and then changed to a O-360 A4A so I know that they use the same mount. I don't have my engine model number list here right now but someone else here can probably tell you which models use the type I or type II engine mounts. Jerry jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net>
Subject: VM-1000 interface cable and connectors
Date: Feb 11, 2001
A few months ago someone posted information about connectors for an extension cable for the VM-1000. Now, I can't find it in the archives. Will someone please re-post this. Thank you, Tom Barnes -6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2001
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: How do I get the crates off the truck
Allen Beer and pizza is all you need! Eric Irwin lured Jody Edwards, Eric Henson and myself to his house one evening with that and nothing else. Renting a truck with a lift gate will definitely help. We simply slid the box out so that only one end sat on the lift gate. We serfs held up the other end. We lowered the forward end using the lift gate and carried it into the garage. Four strong backs is all you need. If you have a friend like jarhed(at)bellsouth.net , keep the crow bar away from him! :-) Charlie Kuss RV-8A fuselage Boca Raton, Fl. > I've ordered the 6A quick build kit and I'm trying to figure out how to get > a 193" long 880 lb crate off the truck. How did others do it? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Carb needed
Date: Feb 11, 2001
Amen to the praise for this guy! > try Kenny Faeth...sacto.ca...916-368-1832..great guy, and if he don't Hal Kempthorne RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Bend the stick
Date: Feb 11, 2001
Notch it; heat it, bend it, weld it. Local welding shop/FBO can probably do it for a couple of bucks. What plane? In a 6A it wouldn't help things. Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 41 hours Hampshire, IL C38 -----Original Message----- From: Van Artsdalen, Scott <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> Date: Sunday, February 11, 2001 2:09 PM Subject: RV-List: Bend the stick > >I need to bend the front stick slightly forward. Anyone have any advice on >how best to do this? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2001
From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Bend the stick
Pipe fitters have hydraulic equipment to bend about any pipe (within reason). If you can find some pieces of leather to put in the bending jig, yer stick won't even be marred. probably do it for free when you are nice to them. i found most shops are interested in you building any kind of craft and will do quite a bit for you for free if it only takes a few minutes to do. gert Dennis Persyk wrote: > > > Notch it; heat it, bend it, weld it. Local welding shop/FBO can probably do > it for a couple of bucks. What plane? In a 6A it wouldn't help things. > Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 41 hours > Hampshire, IL C38 > -----Original Message----- > From: Van Artsdalen, Scott <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> > To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com' > Date: Sunday, February 11, 2001 2:09 PM > Subject: RV-List: Bend the stick > > > > > >I need to bend the front stick slightly forward. Anyone have any advice on > >how best to do this? > > > > > -- is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: Re: Bend the stick
Date: Feb 11, 2001
> > I need to bend the front stick slightly forward. Anyone have any advice on > how best to do this? Oxy-acetylene torch, heat it red over an inch or so, and it will bend easily without kinking. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN 6A ------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: Henry Gorgas Feb Class - short report
Date: Feb 11, 2001
Terri - Welcome to the wonderful world of RVs'. Feel free to call on this list often and search the archives as needed. The finest tool you can aquire will be the help of another builder who is slightly ahead of you on your project. That is why this list is invaluable. Have fun and build carefully, Douglas G. Murray RV-6 Southern Alberta > > New to this list, new to building. > After too many years of watching everyone else build RV's, and getting to > fly them all, am taking them up on their offers of local expertise, advice, > and help. Still, felt overwhelmed at just getting going, and as a woman, > intimidated by the intense array of tools and terms absolutely new to me. > Maybe gender doesn't have anything to do with it, but, like any newbie, > taking the first step has been a long time coming due to lack of confidence. > snip> > > Terri Watson > RV-6 Empennage inventoried and in the shop, collecting tools > Lander, Wyoming ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: Bend the stick
Date: Feb 11, 2001
Fill the tube with dry sand, plug the ends and heat the tube to a red color. Bend the tube to the shape you want, let it cool in a draft free area and empty the sand out of the tube. The sand will prevent the tube from kinking. Douglas G. Murray RV-6 C-GRPA Southern Alberta > > > > > > >I need to bend the front stick slightly forward. Anyone have any advice on > > >how best to do this? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Platenuts drifting off centre
Date: Feb 11, 2001
My RV-9A wing kit finally arrived and I have started with installing the platenuts on the spar that hold the tanks on. The installation instructions suggest using a platenut to center the microstop countersink but my countersink would bottom out in the platenut before it cut deep enough. The solution for me was to take a piece of thicker material ( I used some scrap 1/8"), drill 3 holes that matched the ones in the spar (2 #40 and one #27) and cleco this piece on the underside of the spar. This had the effect of making a deep pilot hole for the countersink so it wouldn't wander around. I then found 2 notches into the bottom ring of my countersink cage so it would fit over the tips of the clecos and flat against the spar. Works for me. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ RV-9A: Tail done, starting on wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bmaynard507(at)cs.com
Date: Feb 11, 2001
Subject: Intersection Farings Help
I am on my last fiberglass job, gear leg intersection farings. Does anyone have some close up pictures of installed/attached intersection fairing on an RV-6A? Please E-mail if available. Thanks ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Feb 11, 2001
Subject: Re: How do I get the crates off the truck
> I've ordered the 6A quick build kit and I'm trying to figure > out how to get > a 193" long 880 lb crate off the truck. How did others do it? I bolted four heavy duty casters to two 2"x6" boards (two casters per board), then screwed the boards to each end of the crate when the truck pulled up. 1. Slide part of crate out of the back of truck 2. Screw board w/ casters to bottom of crate 3. Tilt crate until casters touch ground 4. Screw board w/ casters to bottom of crate on the other end (still on the truck) 5. CAREFULLY lower the crate to the ground, and roll it into the shop. I had a bunch of guys over to help. There are some pictures on my web site. Tim ****** Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a ****** ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 2001
From: Ed Hobenshield <edhob(at)kermode.net>
Subject: Re: stupid, *&%$ haha thing
> > Listers, > >FWIW, I subscribed to 6 of Matt's other lists a few days ago. That night I >got 6 haha viruses sent to me. Coincidence??? I don't know, all I know is >that I receive them regularly and it seems to always happen when I reply to >the list or change something. No, I'm not mad at Matt in any way. Maybe >I'm wrong, but I thought it might be a clue to what's going on here. > >All I can say for sure is that there should be a death penalty for immature, >virus spreading hackers. I'd like for them to do something that immature to >my face, but they're gutless, spineless, impotent worms. > >I'll bet I get 2 copies today, since I replied twice to the list. > >Vince in Indiana Buy a Mac computor, I have no problem as this viruses is for the mases ( IBM ). But yes, I have it in every thing we deal with. Some shit-head is getting his rocks off, guess he or she needs a life. Maybe a case of calling out for help as their uprising was demented buy overuse of unsupervised ethics and a need to find themselves ? God only knows. Ed H ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2001
From: "Gary J. Strong" <gstrong(at)qwest.net>
Subject: How do I get the crates off the truck
I rented a flatbed trailer and several dollies from the local rental store. I then drove to the trucking company and they loaded it on the trailer. When I got home, I put a piece of angle iron across several roof joists and used a ratchet type of lift (from Walmart) to get the back end of the crate up a few inches. I then used a floor jack to get the front of the crate high enough to put a dollie underneath it. I then slowly drove forward w/ the trailer and the crate slid to the end of the trailer. Lastly I put the floor jack under the crate and lifted high enough for the trailer to be driven clear. I then lowered everything onto the floor and unboxed the fuselage / components. Although this may sound a little hard, it actually went very well and just myself and my son did the entire job. Gary S. RV6AQB - wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2001
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Flight Test Links - new URL
My Flight Test Links were part of my RV Links page, but the page was getting too unwieldy. So, today I split the flight test info off on its own page: http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/ftlinks.html My RV Links page is still at: http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks.html Take care, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt) Ottawa, Canada http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis /Fran Flamini" <flamini2(at)home.com>
, , , , , , , , , "Carlson, Bob" , "Chisholm, Dick, Madge" , , , , "Wilson, Steve, Barb" , "Kunes, Terry"
Subject: Watertown pics P1010001.JPG [2/2]
Date: Feb 11, 2001
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From: "Dennis /Fran Flamini" <flamini2(at)home.com>
, , , , , , , , , "Carlson, Bob" , "Chisholm, Dick, Madge" , , , , "Wilson, Steve, Barb" , "Kunes, Terry"
Subject: Watertown pics P1010001.JPG [1/2]
Date: Feb 11, 2001
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From: "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com>
Subject: Re: How do I get the crates off the truck
Date: Feb 11, 2001
An simple way is to get enough guys together to carry it. Divide the weight by 50 or 60 and you can safely carry anything. In this case, it would take eight guys to handle one end at a time. About twenty years ago, a Lockeed YF something or other (an early surveillance aircraft with a whole bunch of prop blades turning very slowly) landed at Bellingham Airport with his gear up in the middle of an airshow. About 50 volunteers went out and carried it off the runway. Garth Shearing VariEze and 75% RV-6A ----- Original Message ----- From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2001
From: KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Subject: Re: stupid, *&%$ haha thing
>I have Norton Antivirus on my computer and have not received any of the >viruses mentioned in any of the discussions. >Someone else mentioned that Norton detected these viruses. Yes, but it will always tell you it has detected a virus and put it in quarantine. At least mine does. It has an automatic update feature that updates it on a daily basis when you get your mail. Wouldn't leave home (page) without it. (or without the Firewall either). I had a brief flurry of the virus several weeks ago; haven't seen any since, even after I posted replies. I don't think it is the list proper, as Matt's program doesn't allow them to pass. But someone has gotten hold of the address list and is doing stupid cyber things. Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2001
From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Cutouts for sticks
Working on QB 6 forward seat skins f639 and f640. The drawing seems to show the stick cutouts going thru the ribs and the flange of the spar carrythrough with some sort of re-inforcement to the back side of the rib. I can't find any text on it in the manual. What's up here? Ed Holyoke ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: wing jig level-6 pre drilled skins
Date: Feb 11, 2001
> When I get the strings exact then the spar is not exact. We builders should probably not use terms like 'exact' as they cause us to forget that we poor mortals will always build to some dimension close to but not at the nominal dimension on Van's plans. Plans should have tolerances on the dimensions. The string stretched along the spar should be no less than 0.0 inches (touching the spar) and no more than 0.25 inches away from the spar for example. Van might say that it is adequate to have the distance from string to spar be +0.025" , - 0.0". Without the tolerance data, we have to decide for ourselves which forces us, who don't really have enough data, to become designers. If you look at the plans for production products such as 747s, F16s and even space shuttles, you will see dimensions with tolerances. Sometimes, tolerances aren't there with the dimension but are stated in some general specification statement such as "all rivets shall be spaced as shown on plans -0.125 + 0.0" meaning that rivets shall be no further apart than the dimension shown but may be as much as 1/8th inch closer together. This is about what I followed but I allowed very close spacing for the last rivet in a line of them. Another way to do a line of rivets is to space them evenly but not further than plan dimension. For bolts, at least one thread should be thru the nut but not more than three is the rule, I believe. Rivet shop heads have tolerances that we all know. When you install the horizontal stabilizer, if the dimension from one tip to the center point on the roll bar or fuselage is within 1/2 inch of the other. Would 1/4 inch be better? How? It would be expensive in terms of your time. Little bits of added time, like little bits of added weight, add up. The result can be failure to complete the project! Ninty percent of an airplane won't fly, no matter how 'exactly' built. Hal Kempthorne RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2001
From: Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz>
Subject: Re: Cutouts for sticks
Ed Holyoke wrote: > > > Working on QB 6 forward seat skins f639 and f640. The drawing seems to show > the stick cutouts going thru the ribs and the flange of the spar > carrythrough with some sort of re-inforcement to the back side of the rib. I > can't find any text on it in the manual. What's up here? It is shown in the plans somewhere... you need to cut off the first few inches of the flange if the F618 ribs, then rivet a replacement flange on the other side of the rib. Check out Frank Justice's instructions or http://members.nbci.com/frankv/rv/bunny/fusejig.htm Frank. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2001
From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: RV6 Luggage Lockers
Hi Norman, You can see some shots of my baggage doors at: http://members3.clubphoto.com/socal230330/RV-6_Builders_album/ You've probably already seen those. I used .032 doors with 2 latches per door. I'm sure you could get by with one, although I would probably then go to .040 doors. I didn't use any stiffeners on the doors, and haven't had any problems. I arranged it so the hinge was on the inside. The hartwell latch can be purchased through Spruce, but there 15 or 16 bucks. I got mine at a aircraft surplus place here in LA. They're new surplus, but the chrome isn't the best. If you want, I could go over and pick up a couple for you. I think the price was under $5 ea. I also used one for my cowl oil door. Works great, but people see it and seem to think it there for them to play with. I have hidden hinges on my cowl oil door and usually have it open at the airshows for people to see. I don't know how many people just come up and close it, then snap it open. Just pisses me off. (I don't come up and touch your wife do I....at least without asking). Whoops, I digress... Laird RV-6 155 hrs SoCal From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Sun, Feb 11, 2001 7:18 PM Subject: RV-List: RV6 Luggage Lockers Laird and others using the Hartwell latch on their luggage locker doors: 1. How many latches did you put on each door, one or two? 2. What thickness of material did you use for the door? 3. Did you hide your piano hinge under the floor or does it need to go on the top in sight? 4. Did you reinforce the door with stiffener material or just leave it flat? Thank-you, Norman Hunger RV6A Delta BC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2001
From: "Dennis /Fran Flamini" <flamini2(at)home.com> (by way of Matt Dralle 925-606-1001
)
Subject: IO-360 servo rear facing off std carb flange
Please see: ftp://ftp.matronics.com/pub/Public/flamini(at)home.com/N4JB-Servo.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2001
From: Elbie(at)AOL.COM (by way of Matt Dralle 925-606-1001 <dralle(at)matronics.com>)
Subject: Announcement
2/9/2001 Fellow Pilots and Builders: EM aviation is pleased to announce that the RiteAngle III Angle of Attack system is in production. I know this has been a long, long wait for some of you, however I will not sell a system that is not up to my standards. The long delay was partially caused by the total new design required after the RiteAngle 2000 system was terminated. The remainder of the delay was insuring the system met all our requirements such as both hot and cold environment testing. The first production group of systems off the line are being again extensively tested for approximately 2 weeks before we deliver any systems to insure there are no "bugs" appearing. When all production testing is accomplished I will ship according to who has sent in the order form via fax or US mail. (Again, DO NOT send your credit card number via e-mail! I DO NOT have a secure e-mail line.) If you want a spot in line for early delivery you can request this via e-mail, and mail your check or CC number. At present time I estimate 4- 10 weeks before your delivery, depending on when I receive your payment. To those of you who have been in correspondence with me for the last year, thanks for your belief in EM aviation's product, and soon you will have a product in your hands. I honor my correspondence of the quoted price. Current price $295 + mount & options see web site for information. www.riteangle.com Elbie Mendenhall President EM Aviation, LLC P NE Prairie Rd Brush Prairie WA 98606 360-260-0772 www.riteangle.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Glover" <wirraway2(at)bravo.net.au>
Subject: NavAid question
Date: Feb 12, 2001
G'Day to all, I sent the following e-mail to the NavAid company twice, over the last three months, and have no response. Good product, but very poor after sales service......... I know they are a small company and are very busy, but they should at least give the courtesy of a reply......... Copy of e-mail follows>>>>> On the rv-list recently (16th November), Ken Beene, submitted his first 75 hour report. He commented on the NavAid as follows: <<>>> My question is as follows: My aircraft is not flying as yet, but the NavAid servo and controller have been fitted, and tested OK. A lot of time and effort has been given to ensure that control and stick forces are "free and very light". The servo was shipped in March this year and controller shipped in June. Does the system now have the 5 ohm resistor as standard or does one have to be fitted.?? The servo is mounted in the wing and tip tanks will be fitted in early Jan 2001. Access to the servo is via the under wing bell crank access cover, and is a little tight. I would prefer to do this mod now, while the wings are off....if it is needed. I did mention that the unit will be fitted to RV6A when ordered.. Your early advice would be appreciated. Ken Glover 90 Berringar Rd Valentine NSW Australia 2280 Home e-mail wirraway2(at)bravo.net.au Does anyone on the rv-list know if this mod needs to be done, or just go and fly the aircraft and fix the problem, if needed, later?? Cheers and take care, Ken Glover RV6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: robert.northrup(at)kodak.com
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Subject: RV-8 Fuselage Jig
From: Robert Northrup Free to a good home, one each RV-8 fuselage jig in Rochester, New York. Please repond to my e-mail, robert.northrup(at)kodak.com Bob 80578 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis /Fran Flamini" <flamini2(at)home.com>
"Wilson, Steve, Barb" , , , , "Chisholm, Dick, Madge" , "Carlson, Bob" , , , , , , , , , , , "Wienceks Mark, Sue" <2wienceks(at)home.com>
Subject: Watertown, Wisc pics Sunday 2-11-01 P1010001.JPG [2/2]
Date: Feb 12, 2001
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From: "Dennis /Fran Flamini" <flamini2(at)home.com>
"Wilson, Steve, Barb" , , , , "Chisholm, Dick, Madge" , "Carlson, Bob" , , , , , , , , , , , "Wienceks Mark, Sue" <2wienceks(at)home.com>
Subject: Watertown, Wisc pics Sunday 2-11-01 P1010001.JPG [1/2]
Date: Feb 12, 2001
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From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Subject: Re: NavAid question
Date: Feb 12, 2001
> > He commented on the NavAid as follows: > > << tracking when coupled to the GX-60, there was some > stick shaking especially when there wasn't much > loading on the ailerons (tracking is much enhanced > if the CDI resolution is set to 0.3nm in the > GX-60). NavAid said this is common in RV's with > light control forces, > > Does anyone on the rv-list know if this mod needs > to be done, or just go and fly the aircraft and > fix the problem, if needed, later?? > I have a NavAid Devices AP on my RV-6 which has very little friction in the control system. Sometimes I have a little trouble with the jittering. It is dependent on several factors. Normally I don't have it in cruise although sometimes it is necessary to load the system slightly with the aileron trim to get rid of it. It tends to jitter if I try to use it at the lower speed during climb. When I first flew my airplane I had the jittering pretty bad, but was able to reduce it greatly by reducing the sensitivity of the system using the methods in the manual. I am very very glad to have this little cheap autopilot. It makes all the difference during cross country flight. I have had a little trouble with it though. Once it got way off center such that it was showing a turn all the time and could not be trimmed for straight flight. When I called about this problem, to my great surprise and enjoyment, he suggested I take it apart and try to fix it, before sending it back. That never happens with a VCR manufacturer. I did take it apart. It is quite simple. I was able to easily fix the problem and when it happened once again I fixed it again, permantly this time, I think. The gyro, which is just an electric motor with large flywheels on the shaft, on both sides, was shifting in its mounting. The second time it shifted, and thereby got out of balance, I superglued that sucker. This homebuilding really is "educational." Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP Flying http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cliff Begnaud" <Shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com>
Subject: Re: engines (& Cowl)
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Good question! Along this same line, how about the cowl? I know that the carb on the 0-360 extends further down than the one on the 0-320. Can you change engines and use the same cowl without major mods to the cowl, or does Van sell a different cowl for each engine? (for the -6 & -9) Cliff RV9 (not a -9A) Wing kit arrived! Erie, CO > > Can anybody tell me whether a dynafocal mounted O-320 uses the same mount on > a dynafocal mounted O-360? In other words, could a person running an O-320 > D1A for example use his same mount for an O-360 A1A or A4A? > > Greg Tanner > RV-9A Empennage (Wings due Apr 2) > SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2001
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Cutouts for sticks
--- Ed Holyoke wrote: > > Working on QB 6 forward seat skins f639 and f640. The drawing seems > to show > the stick cutouts going thru the ribs and the flange of the spar > carrythrough with some sort of re-inforcement to the back side of the > rib. I > can't find any text on it in the manual. What's up here? I don't know that the angle attached to the back side of the rib is so much for re-inforcement as for a flange onto which to mount a platenut for the floor. I simply cut and used my fluting pliers to bend the flange back the other way, mounted my platenut on that. With the floor "loads" spread out over the several ribs, doesn't seem like much stress on that one point. Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Panel Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: robert.northrup(at)kodak.com
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Subject: RV8 Fuselage Jig
From: Robert Northrup My fuselage jig has been spoken for. Only 47 minutes on the site! That's quite a response time. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: NavAid question
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Ken, I would urge you to install the resistor now. I have not installed mine yet and the continuous Dutch roll is aggravating! I have spent about 8 hours fixing things on the NaVAid autopilot that should have been taken care of at the factory. They include: 1) Repositioning servo arm -- I specified underseat mounting so factory should have supplied it so. 2) Rewiring leads after step 1) This information was missing from my installation manual. 3) Installing resistor in motor leads to reduce gain -- coming soon! In retrospect, I wish I had not gone the cheap route. I should have purchased an S-Tec with altitude hold. Then I would have something that worked right out of the box, a real turn coordinator with a real ball -- and with altitude hold to boot! Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 41 hours 118 landings (just 3 bouncers) Hampshire, IL C38 -----Original Message----- From: Ken Glover <wirraway2(at)bravo.net.au> Date: Monday, February 12, 2001 2:46 AM Subject: RV-List: NavAid question > >G'Day to all, > >I sent the following e-mail to the NavAid company >twice, over the last three months, and have no >response. Good product, but very poor after sales >service......... I know they are a small company >and are very busy, but they should at least give >the courtesy of a reply......... > >Copy of e-mail follows>>>>> > >On the rv-list recently (16th November), Ken >Beene, submitted his first 75 hour report. > >He commented on the NavAid as follows: > ><<tracking when coupled to the GX-60, there was some >stick shaking especially when there wasn't much >loading on the ailerons (tracking is much enhanced >if the CDI resolution is set to 0.3nm in the >GX-60). NavAid said this is common in RV's with >light control forces, and offered to modify the >servo with a resistor if I sent it in. They sent >me the 5 ohm 3 watt resistor, which I added inside >the servo in series with the motor. This solved >the shaking problem and now the unit works great >at all air speeds.>>>> > >My question is as follows: > >My aircraft is not flying as yet, but the NavAid >servo and controller have been fitted, and tested >OK. A lot of time and effort has been given to >ensure that control and stick forces are "free and >very light". The servo was shipped in March this >year and controller shipped in June. Does the >system now have the 5 ohm resistor as standard or >does one have to be fitted.?? > >The servo is mounted in the wing and tip tanks >will be fitted in early Jan 2001. Access to the >servo is via the under wing bell crank access >cover, and is a little tight. I would prefer to do >this mod now, while the wings are off....if it is >needed. > >I did mention that the unit will be fitted to RV6A >when ordered.. > >Your early advice would be appreciated. > >Ken Glover >90 Berringar Rd Valentine NSW Australia 2280 >Home e-mail wirraway2(at)bravo.net.au > >Does anyone on the rv-list know if this mod needs >to be done, or just go and fly the aircraft and >fix the problem, if needed, later?? > >Cheers and take care, >Ken Glover RV6A > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DThomas773(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Subject: Re: engines (& Cowl)
This is a good question. When I was shopping for engines I soon discovred all Lyc 0-320s are not created equal. Before I bought my A-2B I called Van's, gave them the model number. Scott McDaniels looked it up and said it would be a bolt on fit to both cowling and mount. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2001
From: Tim Lewis <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: NavAid question
1. I've found that a phone call to Navaid beats an email to Navaid. 2. My stick shook during early flight test, and I followed the corrective procedure in the back of the manual (it involves changing the gain in the servo circuitry via a potentiometer - not too hard to do). That fixed the problem. My unit was purchased from Navaid 2-3 years ago, and did not have the resistor modification as far as I know. 3. My stick still shakes on the ground when the Navaid is engaged, because there is no air load on the ailerons. It's not a problem in flight, however. 4. I think the Navaid is a great investment. Tim Lewis 170+ hours N47TD ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Subject: Re: engines (& Cowl)
In a message dated 2/12/01 5:57:57 AM Pacific Standard Time, Shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com writes: > Cliff > RV9 (not a -9A) > Wing kit arrived! > Erie, CO -9? Are you engineering your own tail dragger? Last night in the shop after a couple of beers I set the tail of my -9A project on the floor, thought it would look pretty cool as a taildragger. Also would allow me to open the garage door without hitting the rudder. Kevin in WA -9A wiring & panel ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: Bend the stick
Date: Feb 12, 2001
It's an RV-4. Becki Orndorff's seat cushion comes closer than I would like as does the copious protrusion above my belt! I am working on reducing both sets of interference but I still want to bend the stick. -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 -----Original Message----- From: Dennis Persyk [mailto:dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net] Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2001 1:24 PM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Bend the stick Notch it; heat it, bend it, weld it. Local welding shop/FBO can probably do it for a couple of bucks. What plane? In a 6A it wouldn't help things. Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 41 hours Hampshire, IL C38 -----Original Message----- From: Van Artsdalen, Scott <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com' Date: Sunday, February 11, 2001 2:09 PM Subject: RV-List: Bend the stick > >I need to bend the front stick slightly forward. Anyone have any advice on >how best to do this? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Craig Paulson" <cpaulson@paulson-training.com>
Subject: Move workshop to Garage?
Date: Feb 12, 2001
I'm finishing up my 6a wings and the fuselage will arrive in a week or so. The wings fit out through my basement hatch, but the fuselage will not. I seem to have two options: 1) Build fuselage in basement and cut a section of wall between two windows to get it out, or 2) move my workshop into garage. The only reason I hesitate on option 2 is that I'm in New England and the winters get mighty cold. How long are people taking to build their 6a fuselages (sheet metal work only, not engine or cockpit).? Once I move the workshop to the garage, am I pretty much working out there all the time, or are there components that can be built inside then installed into fuselage? Craig Paulson rv6a, wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Tilted gyro - can't find one
Date: Feb 12, 2001
I talked to Amy at Falcon Gauge about two weeks ago. She had electric artificial horizons in stock with the 8 degree tilt. Direct price was about $1100 (list price). Van's may be able to order it for you and save some money due to their lower markup. Listers have reported that these Chinese made gauges don't stand up well to aerobatics (check archives). Here is contact info for Falcon: Amy Wang Falcon Gauge Wultrad, Inc. (847) 543-9961 1-877-543-9961 fax: (847) 543-9965 falcongauge.com email: wultrad(at)msn.com (The website doesn't seem to be working as I post this.) Chris Heitman Dousman WI RV-9A N94ME (reserved) Fuselage http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html -----Original Message----- All of the gyro adds and products that I have seen from Sigma Tech are vacuum operated (this info is worth what you paid for it). RC Allen will build a tilt into one of their electric gyros, but last I heard, the backlog was staggering. > > > Does Sigma tec make one that is electric? > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: Rivet Gun Thanks!
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Thanks for all the advice I received regarding my rivet gun. No disassembly was required. Just needed about a quarter cup of Marvel Mystery Oil. Just opened up the air control full bore, clamped a rag over the exhaust and hang on! Worked great! Thanks again! And special thanks to our RV mates down under who offered to send me a rivet gun! Thanks Les! Luckily I don't need it now. You don't have a spare cross-over exhaust for an RV-4 sitting in a box do you? :-) -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SailOnNW(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Subject: Re: Beautiful RV4 project for sell
James, Made it back to sunny Washington. Hopefully the weather has let up for you there in Kansas. If you need anyone to vouch for the quality of work you have done on the 4, please have them contact me, I'll be happy to. I suppose the only order of buisness left is the deposit. Please let me know. Thanks. Andy Pomeroy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cliff Begnaud" <Shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com>
Subject: Re: engines (& Cowl)
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Nope, Scott at Van's said they are going to do a taildragger version. I would encourage any and all builders (current and prospective) to inform Van's of their desire for a tailwheel -9 so that they will give it the attention it deserves. I'm worried that they will not get the engineering done in a timely manner and that I'll have to wait far too long for the tailwheel fuse kit.. Cliff > > > Cliff > > RV9 (not a -9A) > > Wing kit arrived! > > Erie, CO > > -9? Are you engineering your own tail dragger? Last night in the shop after a > couple of beers I set the tail of my -9A project on the floor, thought it > would look pretty cool as a taildragger. Also would allow me to open the > garage door without hitting the rudder. > Kevin in WA > -9A wiring & panel > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2001
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Move workshop to Garage?
> How long are > people taking to build their 6a fuselages (sheet metal work only, not > engine or cockpit).? Once > I move the workshop to the garage, am I pretty much working out there > all the time, or are there > components that can be built inside then installed into fuselage? Depending on how fast/much you work on it, of course, you could spend from a couple of weeks to a couple of months building up fuselage bulkheads and doing pre-riveting skeleton work. You could knock together your fuselage jig in the basement and bend longerons, mount bulkheads, cut and fit longerons and ribs, drill holes and get the whole fuselage frame clecoed together - all in the basement. That could take you into spring, then you have to pull the whole thing apart and prime it, anyway. Take that opportunity to disassemble the jig and move it to the garage, prime the skeleton components, bulkheads and such, then reassemble it in the garage and rivet. Once you've riveted the skeleton, you're pretty well stuck until it's over. I started my -6 fuselage in June 2000, took it out of the jig in August(2000) and started closing it up. The aforementioned work (skeleton pre-rivet) probably took up June and July, at least - best I can recall (I'm trying _not_ to keep track!). :) Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Panel Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bbrut55(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Subject: IO-360 Throttle and mixture Bracket
Does anyone have photos of their Bendix injection hook up on line? I have an IO-360 with the bottom updraft throttle unit. I need info on the bracket for the throttle and mixture cables. Bill Bruton Engine hook up and wiring RV-8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lenleg(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Subject: Re: Move workshop to Garage?
Craig: I spent about 5 months on my fuselage metal work. You could start in the spring and easily have it finished before cold weather. Len Leggette, RV-8A Greensboro, North Carolina (N901LL res) Engine Hung - On to Accessories! Do no archive ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Move workshop to Garage?
Date: Feb 12, 2001
I think it would be a lot cheaper to install a $450 heater (unless your using oil) than it would be to dig out the ground, cut the wall and extricate the fuselage from the basement. I'm in the same position you are. My wings just fit out the basement and I'll have to move to the garage for the fuselage. It gets mighty cold here in Chicago area as well. I know lots of people who use some $250 propane heaters for the garage and they work fine. You just have to plan when you'll be out there and give it a 1/2 hour or so to warm up. Mike Nellis Stinson 108-2 N9666K RV-6 N699BM (res) Gooping up the tanks Plainfield, IL (LOT) http://vondane.com/mnellis ----- Original Message ----- From: "Craig Paulson" <cpaulson@paulson-training.com> Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 9:51 AM Subject: RV-List: Move workshop to Garage? <cpaulson@paulson-training.com> > > I'm finishing up my 6a wings and the fuselage will arrive in a week or so. > The wings fit out through my basement hatch, but the fuselage will not. I > seem to have > two options: 1) Build fuselage in basement and cut a section of wall between > two > windows to get it out, or 2) move my workshop into garage. The only reason I > hesitate > on option 2 is that I'm in New England and the winters get mighty cold. How > long are > people taking to build their 6a fuselages (sheet metal work only, not engine > or cockpit).? Once > I move the workshop to the garage, am I pretty much working out there all > the time, or are there > components that can be built inside then installed into fuselage? > > Craig Paulson > rv6a, wings > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Bob Archer Antennas
Date: Feb 13, 2001
I would like to install a com antenna in the left wing tip of my RV-6. Has anyone on the list had experience with the Archer antenna in this location? Also, I would consider the SA-002 in the vertical stabilizer, however the dimentions given indicate that it would be too large. Has anyone tried this? Thanks, John Warren RV-6Q ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2001
From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RE: RV4-List: Re: RV4-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 02/08/01
Van's supports all three mounts. Narrow deck 0-320's with no dash letters after 0-320 and certain E series wide deck 0-320E2A's and 0-360A1A's dash numbers have straight mounts. All the rest have dynafocal mounts. --- Ed Tate wrote: > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Ed Tate" > > > I just learned there are two different dyna-focal > mounts besides the old > straight mount. Very confusing. Is there a way to > know by engine number > what mount it has? Does Van's support all three? > Ed Tate > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv4-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv4-list-server(at)matronics.com]On > Behalf Of > MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com > Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 9:22 AM > To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV4-List: Re: RV4-List Digest: 1 Msgs - > 02/08/01 > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com > > In a message dated 2/8/01 11:55:46 PM Pacific > Standard Time, > rv4-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: > > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Chuck Rabaut" > > > > > Hi Guys and Gals, > > > > I found out that the 0320 H2AD's won't hang on > my dyna-focal mount > (they > > require a special dyna-focal mount). I'm looking > for an engine with a > few > > hundred hours left before I have to learn over > hauling. Can be an O-235, > > O-290, or an O-320, I just need something > in-expensive that will hook up > to > > my RV-4 dyna-focal mount. Any and all referrals > would be greatly > > appreciated. Thank you all, in advance, for your > assistance. > > > > Chuck > > > Remember the immortal words from the past "There is > NO subistute for horse > power " > wood prop on your RV4 > > you would be aft CG with a 110lb passenger & no > baggage. > > Tim Barnes > N39TB > > > > > > > > > through > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > Matronics! > > > > > Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6aJMW(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Subject: Flight Simulator
I keep loosing everything on my computer! So can someone tell me where I can download the RV serious for Flight SImulator, I found the RV4 but no others. I had them b4 and I know there is a website, by Dave I think. Justin Rv6a (tail section 4 ever) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: Heat muffs
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Can someone tell me the difference between the preheat muff and the conventional muff that Van's sells in the catalog? Why would I want to use one over the other aside from price? -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2001
From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: Re: RV4-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 02/08/01
Chuck, Van;'s does sell a mount for the H2AD. You may have to modify your cowling somewhat to fit the front part of your case under it, but it will work. By the way, when you rebuild the AD, BALANCE IT! It makes a huge difference. Rob PS: Re: Wood props. Tell Tim that an aft CG does not necessarily mean an out of limit CG. I have carried a 250 pounder in the back of mine (0-320 wood prop)within limits. Look at the loading numbers with full fuel and you will find it will be close to over gross and max aft CG range but flies fine. Your mileage may vary, but I don't recommend you go out and do slow flight or stalls with a big backseater, and you should fly final slightly faster IAW the graph. --- MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com wrote: > --> RV4-List message posted by: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com > > In a message dated 2/8/01 11:55:46 PM Pacific > Standard Time, > rv4-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: > > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Chuck Rabaut" > > > > > Hi Guys and Gals, > > > > I found out that the 0320 H2AD's won't hang on > my dyna-focal mount (they > > require a special dyna-focal mount). I'm looking > for an engine with a few > > hundred hours left before I have to learn over > hauling. Can be an O-235, > > O-290, or an O-320, I just need something > in-expensive that will hook up to > > my RV-4 dyna-focal mount. Any and all referrals > would be greatly > > appreciated. Thank you all, in advance, for your > assistance. > > > > Chuck > > > Remember the immortal words from the past "There is > NO subistute for horse > power " > wood prop on your RV4 > > you would be aft CG with a 110lb passenger & no > baggage. > > Tim Barnes > N39TB > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > through > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > Matronics! > > > > > Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2001
From: Gary Rush <Gary.Rush(at)west.sun.com>
Subject: Unfinished RV-8 for sale
I have a partially completed RV-8 for sale. Wings are completed (includes the strobes) Empennage is completed Fuselage - drilled, primed and ready to be riveted I have not ordered the finish kit. For sale for $9,950 firm. After having attempted to get my tail dragger sign off, I have realized that I am a much better nose dragger pilot and I do not want to tempt fate. I can be contacted at gary.rush(at)west.sun.com. I am located in Carlsbad, CA. Thanks, Gary ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2001
From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Fwd: Engine info wanted
Guys, Here is the shop in TX selling runout H2AD's... Bobby's engines: 940-682-4220 Rob Ray Note: forwarded message attached. Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 14:15:29 -0500 From: "Richard J. Cathriner" <RCathriner(at)compuserve.com> Subject: Engine info wanted Rob, The place that I bought the O320-D2J was called "Bobby's Planes and Parts". He had several E2D, D2J, and H2AD engines stacked on shelves. His phone number is: 940-682-4220. Regards, Rick *************************************************************************** ************** >Pcondon(at)csc.com< ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Don Hyde <DonH(at)axonn.com>
Subject: How do I get the crates off the truck
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Don't. I rented a U-Haul to pick it up from the freight depot. There were two crates -- one with the wings, and a bigger one with everything else. They loaded them into the U-Haul for me with a forklift. When I got home, the wing crate was easy enough to unload with 4 guys. The other crate we pried open and unloaded right from the truck. It only took a couple of hours. The heaviest single part is the fuse, and it's only 100 lbs or so. To reasonably strong guys can lift it without busting anything. I know I didn't think of this plan myself. I think someone from this list clued me in. > -----Original Message----- > From: Allen Checca [mailto:achecca(at)concentric.net] > Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2001 11:50 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: How do I get the crates off the truck > > > > > I've ordered the 6A quick build kit and I'm trying to > figure out how to get > a 193" long 880 lb crate off the truck. How did others do it? > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2001
From: Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
Subject: Flight Simulator
http://dkoelzer.murkworks.com/hangarx/index.html -Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of RV6aJMW(at)aol.com Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 11:33 AM Subject: RV-List: Flight Simulator I keep loosing everything on my computer! So can someone tell me where I can download the RV serious for Flight SImulator, I found the RV4 but no others. I had them b4 and I know there is a website, by Dave I think. Justin Rv6a (tail section 4 ever) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: Flight Simulator
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Where did you get the RV-4 for MS Flt Sim? I'd like to try that out! -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 -----Original Message----- From: RV6aJMW(at)AOL.COM [mailto:RV6aJMW(at)AOL.COM] Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 10:33 AM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Flight Simulator I keep loosing everything on my computer! So can someone tell me where I can download the RV serious for Flight SImulator, I found the RV4 but no others. I had them b4 and I know there is a website, by Dave I think. Justin Rv6a (tail section 4 ever) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Flight Simulator
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Subject: RV-List: Flight Simulator > > I keep loosing everything on my computer! So can someone tell me where I can > download the RV serious for Flight SImulator, I found the RV4 but no others. > I had them b4 and I know there is a website, by Dave I think. > > Justin > Rv6a (tail section 4 ever) > Justine, There use to be a "Hangar X" that had the Microsoft Flight Simulator models for the RVs http://home.att.net/~david2.koelzer/hangarx/index.html . However, I can no longer reach that web page. Ed ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Subject: Re: Cutouts for sticks
or if it not a quick build, you can reverse these two ribs ( left for right and visa versa ) and not have to modify the floor ribs at all. scott tampa rv6a finishing i need a hanger ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Subject: Re: NavAid question
In a message dated 2/12/01 12:24:31 AM Pacific Standard Time, wirraway2(at)bravo.net.au writes: << My aircraft is not flying as yet, but the NavAid servo and controller have been fitted, and tested OK. A lot of time and effort has been given to ensure that control and stick forces are "free and very light". The servo was shipped in March this year and controller shipped in June. Does the system now have the 5 ohm resistor as standard or does one have to be fitted.?? >> The standard unit as shipped from Navaid does not have the resistor. You will want to add the resistor for operation in the RV, due to low control system friction. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Subject: Re: NavAid question
In a message dated 2/12/01 5:39:20 AM Pacific Standard Time, n5lp(at)carlsbad.net writes: << I have a NavAid Devices AP on my RV-6 which has very little friction in the control system. Sometimes I have a little trouble with the jittering. It is dependent on several factors. Normally I don't have it in cruise although sometimes it is necessary to load the system slightly with the aileron trim to get rid of it. It tends to jitter if I try to use it at the lower speed during climb. When I first flew my airplane I had the jittering pretty bad, but was able to reduce it greatly by reducing the sensitivity of the system using the methods in the manual. >> Navaid will send you a resistor free that you can put in series with the servo motor. This removed all of the in flight jitters. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com>
Subject: ENGINE CRATE
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Here's an odd one for you on the list. Anybody have a picture or know where to find one on the net of a lycoming engine crate? I want to show someone what the crate looks like when an engine is shipped. Thanks, Greg Tanner RV-9A Empennage SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2001
From: Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
Subject: Flight Simulator
http://dkoelzer.murkworks.com/hangarx/index.html Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage http://vondane.com/rv8a/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Subject: : How do I get the crates off the truck
From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
Call the frieght company & pick it up at the terminal. I used a 6x16 trailer & they loaded with a fork lift. four freinds slid it off in the garage. It is a trailer load. Don Jordan RV6A Arlington, Tx ***************************************** writes: > > > > I've ordered the 6A quick build kit and I'm trying to figure > out how to get > a 193" long 880 lb crate off the truck. How did others do > it? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2001
From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Unfinished RV-8 for sale
Gary, changing the 8 over to a 'nose dragger config, is relatively trivial and involves probably no more than drilling out some rivets in the F804 assembly and getting the landing gear weldments and some related reinforcement bracketry with the f802,s Maybe give Van's a call, might be easier than you think.... Gert Gary Rush wrote: > > > I have a partially completed RV-8 for sale. > > Wings are completed (includes the strobes) > Empennage is completed > Fuselage - drilled, primed and ready to be riveted > I have not ordered the finish kit. > > For sale for $9,950 firm. > > After having attempted to get my tail dragger sign off, I have realized that I > am a much better nose dragger pilot and I do not want to tempt fate. > > I can be contacted at gary.rush(at)west.sun.com. > > I am located in Carlsbad, CA. > > Thanks, > Gary > -- is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis /Fran Flamini" <flamini2(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: IO-360 Throttle and mixture Bracket
Date: Feb 12, 2001
i just posted a pic of servo on IO-360 SEE ftp://ftp.matronics.com/pub/Public/flamini(at)home.com/N4JB-Servo.jpg Dennis RV-10 Chicago ----- Original Message ----- From: <Bbrut55(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 11:06 AM Subject: RV-List: IO-360 Throttle and mixture Bracket > > Does anyone have photos of their Bendix injection hook up on line? I have an > IO-360 with the bottom updraft throttle unit. I need info on the bracket for > the throttle and mixture cables. > > > Bill Bruton > Engine hook up and wiring > RV-8 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LeastDrag93066(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Subject: Re: Bob Archer Antennas
In a message dated 02/12/2001 10:25:55 AM Pacific Standard Time, jwdub(at)teleport.com writes: > I would like to install a com antenna in the left wing tip of my RV-6. > Has anyone on the list had experience with the Archer antenna in this > location? Also, I would consider the SA-002 in the vertical stabilizer, > however the dimentions given indicate that it would be too large. Has > anyone tried this? > > Thanks, > > John Warren > RV-6Q > Hi John and all, I have one of Bob Archer's COM antenna's on the vertical stabilizer in my RV-3. It works great. BTW, anyone think I had a slightly higher vertical stabilizer because of the longer nose with the LOM engine. (that is, if you noticed the vertical stabilizer was taller.) Jim Ayers RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis /Fran Flamini" <flamini2(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: NavAid question
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Dennis, it looks like you have enough hrs to join us for brkfst on Sunday mornings. Have you seen Fred Meyers? Dennis RV-10 Chicago ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 8:57 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: NavAid question > > Ken, > I would urge you to install the resistor now. I have not installed mine yet > and the continuous Dutch roll is aggravating! > I have spent about 8 hours fixing things on the NaVAid autopilot that should > have been taken care of at the factory. They include: > 1) Repositioning servo arm -- I specified underseat mounting so factory > should have supplied it so. > 2) Rewiring leads after step 1) This information was missing from my > installation manual. > 3) Installing resistor in motor leads to reduce gain -- coming soon! > > In retrospect, I wish I had not gone the cheap route. I should have > purchased an S-Tec with altitude hold. Then I would have something that > worked right out of the box, a real turn coordinator with a real ball -- and > with altitude hold to boot! > > Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 41 hours 118 landings (just 3 > bouncers) > Hampshire, IL C38 > > -----Original Message----- > From: Ken Glover <wirraway2(at)bravo.net.au> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Monday, February 12, 2001 2:46 AM > Subject: RV-List: NavAid question > > > > > >G'Day to all, > > > >I sent the following e-mail to the NavAid company > >twice, over the last three months, and have no > >response. Good product, but very poor after sales > >service......... I know they are a small company > >and are very busy, but they should at least give > >the courtesy of a reply......... > > > >Copy of e-mail follows>>>>> > > > >On the rv-list recently (16th November), Ken > >Beene, submitted his first 75 hour report. > > > >He commented on the NavAid as follows: > > > ><< >tracking when coupled to the GX-60, there was some > >stick shaking especially when there wasn't much > >loading on the ailerons (tracking is much enhanced > >if the CDI resolution is set to 0.3nm in the > >GX-60). NavAid said this is common in RV's with > >light control forces, and offered to modify the > >servo with a resistor if I sent it in. They sent > >me the 5 ohm 3 watt resistor, which I added inside > >the servo in series with the motor. This solved > >the shaking problem and now the unit works great > >at all air speeds.>>>> > > > >My question is as follows: > > > >My aircraft is not flying as yet, but the NavAid > >servo and controller have been fitted, and tested > >OK. A lot of time and effort has been given to > >ensure that control and stick forces are "free and > >very light". The servo was shipped in March this > >year and controller shipped in June. Does the > >system now have the 5 ohm resistor as standard or > >does one have to be fitted.?? > > > >The servo is mounted in the wing and tip tanks > >will be fitted in early Jan 2001. Access to the > >servo is via the under wing bell crank access > >cover, and is a little tight. I would prefer to do > >this mod now, while the wings are off....if it is > >needed. > > > >I did mention that the unit will be fitted to RV6A > >when ordered.. > > > >Your early advice would be appreciated. > > > >Ken Glover > >90 Berringar Rd Valentine NSW Australia 2280 > >Home e-mail wirraway2(at)bravo.net.au > > > >Does anyone on the rv-list know if this mod needs > >to be done, or just go and fly the aircraft and > >fix the problem, if needed, later?? > > > >Cheers and take care, > >Ken Glover RV6A > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BSEckstein(at)cs.com
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Subject: Re: IO-360 Throttle and mixture Bracket
Aviat makes brackets that fit both the throttle and mixture cables. If you look in the archives you should be able to find part numbers. They are inexpensive and work great. Brian Eckstein 6A IO360 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Subject: Solo building
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Agree - I can push on the rivet with my index or middle finger and tell by looking at the the indent in my finger if the rivet is ok. Are RV-8 Wings > All of this is mostly by feel and sound, IMHO. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2001
From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Cutouts for sticks
Does the flange of the spar carry through get cut also? Ed Holyoke ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Thompson" <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 6:11 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Cutouts for sticks > > --- Ed Holyoke wrote: > > > > Working on QB 6 forward seat skins f639 and f640. The drawing seems > > to show > > the stick cutouts going thru the ribs and the flange of the spar > > carrythrough with some sort of re-inforcement to the back side of the > > rib. I > > can't find any text on it in the manual. What's up here? > > > I don't know that the angle attached to the back side of the rib is so > much for re-inforcement as for a flange onto which to mount a platenut > for the floor. > I simply cut and used my fluting pliers to bend the flange back the > other way, mounted my platenut on that. > With the floor "loads" spread out over the several ribs, doesn't seem > like much stress on that one point. > > Mike Thompson > Austin, TX > -6 N140RV (Reserved) > Panel > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Subject: Bob Archer Antennas
Date: Feb 12, 2001
It may be discrete and give you less drag, but don't expect good range - especially to the right. The blocking fuselage and horizontal polarization will have a severe adverse effect. I plan to have one VOR/LOC/GS antenna - in the wing tip and two COM's for IFR. The COM antennae will be vertically poloarized on the underside of the fuselage. I could go for one COM in the tip (and just 1 on the fuse) just for backup but always like to have 2 active and good antennas for busy areas. I'm not concerned so much with the range (or lack of) of the NAV antennas since a GPS will be my primary NAV. A MKB will go in the other tip for visits to the US (In Canada, we use NDB's or GPS intersections for ILS approaches - we did away with Markers). Remember that you will have a significant loss (I think around 12db) for wrong polarization on frequencies in the COM band. 12db equals several miles. I could find the exact formula if you like. It will only work well if you talk to someone on your left side and if you're climbing or diving 90 degrees :) Are RV-8 Wings -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Warren Sent: February 13, 2001 1:09 PM Subject: RV-List: Bob Archer Antennas I would like to install a com antenna in the left wing tip of my RV-6. Has anyone on the list had experience with the Archer antenna in this location? Also, I would consider the SA-002 in the vertical stabilizer, however the dimentions given indicate that it would be too large. Has anyone tried this? Thanks, John Warren RV-6Q ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2001
From: Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: Bob Archer Antennas
John, I have Bob's com antenna in the wingtip of my 6 and I'm very happy with it, it works as good as the outside antennas on my Stinson do. I recommend it. Dave John Warren wrote: > > I would like to install a com antenna in the left wing tip of my RV-6. > Has anyone on the list had experience with the Archer antenna in this > location? Also, I would consider the SA-002 in the vertical stabilizer, > however the dimentions given indicate that it would be too large. Has > anyone tried this? > > Thanks, > > John Warren > RV-6Q > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Subject: Re: Bob Archer Antennas
> I would like to install a com antenna in the left wing tip of my RV-6. > Has anyone on the list had experience with the Archer antenna in this > location? The comm antennas should be installed in a vertical orientation, which is why Bob Archer offers the comm antenna that fits in the extended vertical stabilizer. I don't think his comm antenna would work well in the wing tip (horizontal orientation). Call him and ask him to be sure. He's listed in the Torrance CA phone book (or at least he was a couple of years ago when I called him). I used the Archer wingtip VOR antenna. Works great. I used standard external "stick" antennas for my comm. Tim ****** Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a ****** ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2001
From: Tom Velvick <tomvelvick(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Cutouts for sticks
> >Does the flange of the spar carry through get cut also? > >Ed Holyoke Yes, you have to cut out whatever is needed to get the degrees required for the elevators and rudder travel. Regards, Tom Velvick rv-6a wiring N188KJ reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "George Armstrong" <armstrong(at)coastside.net>
Subject: Re: Bob Archer Antennas
Date: Feb 12, 2001
It seems to me that this argument would imply that the antennas on the Cessnas mounted above the fuselage would have the same problem when over a station. Why isn't that true? ----- Original Message ----- From: Are Barstad <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 5:43 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Bob Archer Antennas > > It may be discrete and give you less drag, but don't expect good range - > especially to the right. The blocking fuselage and horizontal polarization > will have a severe adverse effect. > > I plan to have one VOR/LOC/GS antenna - in the wing tip and two COM's for > IFR. The COM antennae will be vertically poloarized on the underside of the > fuselage. I could go for one COM in the tip (and just 1 on the fuse) just > for backup but always like to have 2 active and good antennas for busy > areas. > > I'm not concerned so much with the range (or lack of) of the NAV antennas > since a GPS will be my primary NAV. A MKB will go in the other tip for > visits to the US (In Canada, we use NDB's or GPS intersections for ILS > approaches - we did away with Markers). > > Remember that you will have a significant loss (I think around 12db) for > wrong polarization on frequencies in the COM band. 12db equals several > miles. I could find the exact formula if you like. > > It will only work well if you talk to someone on your left side and if > you're climbing or diving 90 degrees :) > > Are > RV-8 Wings > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Warren > Sent: February 13, 2001 1:09 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Bob Archer Antennas > > > I would like to install a com antenna in the left wing tip of my RV-6. > Has anyone on the list had experience with the Archer antenna in this > location? Also, I would consider the SA-002 in the vertical stabilizer, > however the dimentions given indicate that it would be too large. Has > anyone tried this? > > Thanks, > > John Warren > RV-6Q > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Subject: Bob Archer Antennas
Date: Feb 12, 2001
When over a station, you are close enough that it doesn't matter. Should be full strength or '5 by 5'. Above 30 Mhz, signals does not follow the curvature of the earth (as Short-wave will). It will only travel in a straight line but have the ability to 'bounce' off mountains, other planes, buildings and even meteorites. Nor does it change polarization as it travels (as HF (short-wave) also does). Are RV-8 Wings It seems to me that this argument would imply that the antennas on the Cessnas mounted above the fuselage would have the same problem when over a station. Why isn't that true? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2001
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Cutouts for sticks
--- Ed Holyoke wrote: > > Does the flange of the spar carry through get cut also? > > Ed Holyoke Yep - cut it all the way back to the web - well, where the flange starts to roll into the web. That'll give more clearance than you'll need. Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Panel Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Subject: Re: RV-list: Plate nuts drifting off center
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Platenuts drifting off centre My RV-9A wing kit finally arrived and I have started with installing the platenuts on the spar that hold the tanks on. The installation instructions suggest using a platenut to center the microstop countersink but my countersink would bottom out in the platenut before it cut deep enough. The solution for me was to take a piece of thicker material ( I used some scrap 1/8"), drill 3 holes that matched the ones in the spar (2 #40 and one #27) and cleco this piece on the underside of the spar. This had the effect of making a deep pilot hole for the countersink so it wouldn't wander around. I then found 2 notches into the bottom ring of my countersink cage so it would fit over the tips of the clecos and flat against the spar. Works for me. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ RV-9A: Tail done, starting on wings - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Albert, I think you may have missed something in the instructions. When using the plate nut to pilot for the countersink you are not supposed to use the countersink that is sized for the screw (#27). You are supposed to use a #40 when doing #6 screws and a #30 when doing #8 screws. The pilots in these two cutters fit inside the plate nuts just great, which saves a builder from the expense of buying all of the different cutter sizes. The way you did it works very well also, it just requires a little more work than using the technic of piloting in the plate nut. Scott McDaniels Aurora, OR These opinions and ideas are my own and may not reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Rite Angle III
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Check in the archives under Rite-Angle or Rite Angle. There was quite a discussion about these vs the angle of attack indicator by Propriety. Ross > Does any one know anything about this company? Who has seen one? > > Norman Hunger ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Tate" <tate(at)onlinemac.com>
Subject: Re: RE: RV4-List: Re: RV4-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 02/08/01
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Thanks for the very useful info. Does anyone have similar knowledge on the O-235 engines and their mounts? Ed -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv4-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv4-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of rob ray Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 10:30 AM Subject: RE: RV4-List: Re: RV4-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 02/08/01 --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray Van's supports all three mounts. Narrow deck 0-320's with no dash letters after 0-320 and certain E series wide deck 0-320E2A's and 0-360A1A's dash numbers have straight mounts. All the rest have dynafocal mounts. --- Ed Tate wrote: > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Ed Tate" > > > I just learned there are two different dyna-focal > mounts besides the old > straight mount. Very confusing. Is there a way to > know by engine number > what mount it has? Does Van's support all three? > Ed Tate > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv4-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv4-list-server(at)matronics.com]On > Behalf Of > MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com > Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 9:22 AM > To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV4-List: Re: RV4-List Digest: 1 Msgs - > 02/08/01 > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com > > In a message dated 2/8/01 11:55:46 PM Pacific > Standard Time, > rv4-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: > > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Chuck Rabaut" > > > > > Hi Guys and Gals, > > > > I found out that the 0320 H2AD's won't hang on > my dyna-focal mount > (they > > require a special dyna-focal mount). I'm looking > for an engine with a > few > > hundred hours left before I have to learn over > hauling. Can be an O-235, > > O-290, or an O-320, I just need something > in-expensive that will hook up > to > > my RV-4 dyna-focal mount. Any and all referrals > would be greatly > > appreciated. Thank you all, in advance, for your > assistance. > > > > Chuck > > > Remember the immortal words from the past "There is > NO subistute for horse > power " > wood prop on your RV4 > > you would be aft CG with a 110lb passenger & no > baggage. > > Tim Barnes > N39TB > > > > > > > > through > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > Matronics! > > Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Larygagnon(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Subject: Pop Rivet Question
Perhaps someone on the list can offer some pop rivet advice. Assembling the pushrods to the rod end bearing calls for a MD 42 BS pop rivet. I have MSP 42 and LP4-3 rivets in my kit. Both are steel shank with domed heads but the body on the LP4-3 is grooved lengthwise to allow it to spread more (monel style?). Which would be stronger in this application? Also, should I do more then just alodine the inside of the pushrods? Thanks. Larry Gagnon Kitfox N102LG RV6 Fuselage N6LG (reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Fwd Rivet Line On F-672
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Tom, you got me thinking about his as I'm about to start riveting up my -6A fuselage skeleton. There are two rows of rivets on the F-672, and one row is in the rear facing heavy angles. I'm dimpling the skin and countersinking the angles for -4 rivets. So if the forward row, seems like -3 rivet's could be countersunk without any fear of smoking rivets. I like your idea of building up the area on both sides to allow for countersinking the spacer and not the hinge. Rather than using the hinges another builder, also on this list, is putting in a AL strip of 0.063 and using nut plates to attach the cowling. Thus you can dimple the F-672, the SS firewall flange and countersink the 0.063 strip which I think is an elegant idea. Use about 4 number 8 screws and nutplates in each 13.5" strip, each side of the cowling opening. Several flyers have reported they have added screws and nut plates because their hinges broke in this area. Seems like this would solve a potential future problem for us. Always learning from those that have gone before. Hope this helps. Marty in Brentwood TN ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Gesele" <tgesele(at)usa.net> Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 8:34 AM Subject: RV-List: Fwd Rivet Line On F-672 > > Listers, > > What are people doing regarding c/sinking vs. dimpling the fwd rivet > line of the F-672 (forward bottom skin). With the polyester cowls, there > was a 032 spacer which could be c-sunk so that the skin & firewall could > be dimpled. According the dwg 63, there appears to be no such spacer > with the epoxy cowl, so it appears that the only option is to c-sink > the 672, which I'm afraid may lead to smoking rivets. I've also considered > planning on adding the spacer anyway and either adding a simliar one to > the cowl, or building up the area to match. If anyone has any advice or > opinions on the best way to handle this, I'd appreciate hearing them. > > Thanks, > Tom Gesele > RV-6 Fuselage > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2001
From: kenneth beene <kbeene(at)citilink.com>
Subject: Re: Move workshop to Garage?
Craig Paulson wrote: > I'm finishing up my 6a wings and the fuselage will arrive in a week or so. > The wings fit out through my basement hatch, but the fuselage will not. I > seem to have...... If its not too difficult to remove a wall I would recommend keeping it in the basement. Here is picture of moving my fuse out of the basement. http://www.mninter.net/~kbeene/moving.html It is an advantage to have a temperature and humidity controlled building area -- and it might take longer than you think. I completed the fuse and finishing kit in the basement and then removed the engine and gear legs for reassembly at the hanger. The wings were finished at about 700 hours and the finishing kit at 1700 hours. See by building chart at http://www.mninter.net/~kbeene/chart.html Ken N94KB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Storo" <ERSF2b(at)oregoncoast.com>
Subject: Falcon Gyros & Instruments
Date: Feb 12, 2001
Folks, I suggest you do not waste your time with Falcon instruments. I purchased a compass from Amy. She sent me the wrong one. When I asked for the correct one, she said veryone else gets this one'. Then she charged me shipping and restocking to fix her mistake. I also had to send a vertical compass back, and Amy said they do not work in RVs. She also advised me to NOT use their gyro if I ever planned to go upside down. The chinese are still learning how to work in the Capitalist world. Ed Storo RV-8 ----- Original Message ----- From: "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 8:00 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: Tilted gyro - can't find one > > I talked to Amy at Falcon Gauge about two weeks ago. She had electric > artificial horizons in stock with the 8 degree tilt. Direct price was about > $1100 (list price). Van's may be able to order it for you and save some > money due to their lower markup. Listers have reported that these Chinese > made gauges don't stand up well to aerobatics (check archives). Here is > contact info for Falcon: > > Amy Wang > Falcon Gauge > Wultrad, Inc. > (847) 543-9961 > 1-877-543-9961 > fax: (847) 543-9965 > falcongauge.com > email: wultrad(at)msn.com > > (The website doesn't seem to be working as I post this.) > > Chris Heitman > Dousman WI > RV-9A N94ME (reserved) > Fuselage > http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html > > -----Original Message----- > > All of the gyro adds and products that I have seen from Sigma Tech are > vacuum operated (this info is worth what you paid for it). RC Allen > will build a tilt into one of their electric gyros, but last I heard, > the backlog was staggering. > > > > > > Does Sigma tec make one that is electric? > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LeastDrag93066(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Subject: Re: Bob Archer Antennas
Hi All, If Bob Archer's antenna was a dipole antenna, the description below would be close. However, Bob Archer's antenna's are ground plane antenna's (my interpretation only, bob calls them gamma antenna's), and use the airframe as part of the antenna. You can expect bob's wingtip antenna to work about the same as a belly mounted COM antenna in Van's standard wingtips. As long as you mount them per the instructions, and ground it to the wing skin. Jim Ayers RV-3 N47RV Wingtip COM antenna & Vertical Stab COM antenna In a message dated 02/12/2001 5:46:07 PM Pacific Standard Time, abarstad(at)bconnex.net writes: > > It may be discrete and give you less drag, but don't expect good range - > especially to the right. The blocking fuselage and horizontal polarization > will have a severe adverse effect. > > I plan to have one VOR/LOC/GS antenna - in the wing tip and two COM's for > IFR. The COM antennae will be vertically poloarized on the underside of the > fuselage. I could go for one COM in the tip (and just 1 on the fuse) just > for backup but always like to have 2 active and good antennas for busy > areas. > > I'm not concerned so much with the range (or lack of) of the NAV antennas > since a GPS will be my primary NAV. A MKB will go in the other tip for > visits to the US (In Canada, we use NDB's or GPS intersections for ILS > approaches - we did away with Markers). > > Remember that you will have a significant loss (I think around 12db) for > wrong polarization on frequencies in the COM band. 12db equals several > miles. I could find the exact formula if you like. > > It will only work well if you talk to someone on your left side and if > you're climbing or diving 90 degrees :) > > Are > RV-8 Wings > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Subject: pop rivet length (spec.) question
What is the specs for determining the correct length of a pop (prior to pulling). Thanx Guys ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Subject: Re: pop rivet length (spec.) question
What ARE ... excuse the englais. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2001
From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Falcon Gyros & Instruments
Is this the same gyro that Aircraft Spruce sells? Their website has one as "imported". They say loops and rolls no problem. Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Storo" <ERSF2b(at)oregoncoast.com> Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 9:15 PM Subject: RV-List: Falcon Gyros & Instruments > > Folks, > I suggest you do not waste your time with Falcon instruments. I purchased a > compass from Amy. She sent me the wrong one. When I asked for the correct > one, she said veryone else gets this one'. Then she charged me shipping and > restocking to fix her mistake. I also had to send a vertical compass back, > and Amy said they do not work in RVs. She also advised me to NOT use their > gyro if I ever planned to go upside down. The chinese are still learning how > to work in the Capitalist world. > > Ed Storo RV-8 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> > To: > Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 8:00 AM > Subject: RE: RV-List: Tilted gyro - can't find one > > > > > > I talked to Amy at Falcon Gauge about two weeks ago. She had electric > > artificial horizons in stock with the 8 degree tilt. Direct price was > about > > $1100 (list price). Van's may be able to order it for you and save some > > money due to their lower markup. Listers have reported that these Chinese > > made gauges don't stand up well to aerobatics (check archives). Here is > > contact info for Falcon: > > > > Amy Wang > > Falcon Gauge > > Wultrad, Inc. > > (847) 543-9961 > > 1-877-543-9961 > > fax: (847) 543-9965 > > falcongauge.com > > email: wultrad(at)msn.com > > > > (The website doesn't seem to be working as I post this.) > > > > Chris Heitman > > Dousman WI > > RV-9A N94ME (reserved) > > Fuselage > > http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > All of the gyro adds and products that I have seen from Sigma Tech are > > vacuum operated (this info is worth what you paid for it). RC Allen > > will build a tilt into one of their electric gyros, but last I heard, > > the backlog was staggering. > > > > > > > > > Does Sigma tec make one that is electric? > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Glover" <wirraway2(at)bravo.net.au>
Subject: Re: Hangar Size
Date: Feb 13, 2001
<< > Can you fit four RV's in a 60 x 48 hangar? > > I can play with it on paper and make it work, but I need to know if it works > in reality. Miracle Truss is running a pretty good deal on the two hangar sizes > noted above and I was trying to do some cost/benefit analysis for the co-pilot/budget > analyst of the family. Thanks.>>> Hi Randy, The short answer to both questions is yes. I have a 75 x 50 hanger which houses a Tiger Moth, Cessna XP Hawk, RV4 and have room for an another "visitor" RV as well. The trick is mixture of high and low wings etc. With 2 x RV's the Tiger and the XP there is plenty of room.....enough in fact to fit third RV if needed. One of the important issues to address, is to ensure that the floor is well marked (THEIR parking spot) for each aircraft and ensure that each person parks exactly on THEIR spot, with the prop horizontal. When people don't park correctly, it has a domino effect on everyone else, and vertical props cause "hanger rash".....ask me how I know (RV4 aileron skin) The 60 x 48 would be the way to go, with four sharing the fixed costs, and that size would be comfortable with four RV's, and room for (must have) storage cupboards and benches. Both size hangers would command good resale value, especially the big one. Cheers and take care, Ken Glover Hunter Valley Australia RV6A......will have to soon think about how to push a 6A backwards into the hanger??? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2001
From: Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz>
Subject: Re: Move workshop to Garage?
Craig Paulson wrote: > I'm finishing up my 6a wings and the fuselage will arrive in a week or so. > The wings fit out through my basement hatch, but the fuselage will not. I > seem to have...... There's a fair amount of work that you can do in your basement -- building the bulkheads and some other bits and pieces for a total of maybe 100 hours building time. Perhaps you can do those first, then move out to the garage later when the weather is a bit more temperate? Frank. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: New virus alert
From: Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
Date: Feb 13, 2001
02/13/2001 07:39:13 AM A new worm/virus has launched itself today -- JPMorganChase has already received literally thousands of infected messages. The infected messages have a subject line: Here you have, ;o) The body of the message is: Hi: Check This! The infected attachment is called AnnaKournikova.jpg.vbs The virus is called Onthefly or KALAMAR ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Bob Archer Antennas
From: Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
Date: Feb 13, 2001
02/13/2001 08:00:07 AM Lots of the local builders have put foil strip antennas in one of the trailing edges of their gear leg fairings. Another foil strip gets glassed into the fiberglass canopy bow. This is an outstanding set up and is very inexpensive. This gives the antenna the verticle orientation without creating drag. The gear leg does not interfere with the antenna's operation. Eric Henson -6 Canopy Frame ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RKOdell(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Subject: Re: Bob Archer Antennas
Does somehone have specific information about how to accomplish this? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dwain Harris" <DJaerosports(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Bob Archer Antennas
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Hi Tim I now have 400 hrs in my 6 with the comm antenna in the wing tip and am very happy with it. I have great range and can hear & talk(from both sides of the plane) as good as others so not sure where Are Barstad is getting his info. DJ aerosports riginal Message ----- From: Tim Lewis Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 6:35 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Bob Archer Antennas > I would like to install a com antenna in the left wing tip of my RV-6. > Has anyone on the list had experience with the Archer antenna in this > location? The comm antennas should be installed in a vertical orientation, which is why Bob Archer offers the comm antenna that fits in the extended vertical stabilizer. I don't think his comm antenna would work well in the wing tip (horizontal orientation). Call him and ask him to be sure. He's listed in the Torrance CA phone book (or at least he was a couple of years ago when I called him). I used the Archer wingtip VOR antenna. Works great. I used standard external "stick" antennas for my comm. Tim ****** Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a ****** Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net>
Subject: Re: Pop Rivet Question
Date: Feb 13, 2001
The MD-42 BS rivet is an older number. Use the MSP 42's there. You don't need to alodine the inside of that pushrod...just clean the inside with a cleaner (I like Sher-Will Klean from Sherwin Williams). Then put tape on one end and fog the inside with primer. Turn it over and let it run to both ends and you are done. Be sure you drill those holes with the end installed, and absolutely use a drill press with a v block jig. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Finish Kit (Still) ----- Original Message ----- From: <Larygagnon(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 9:18 PM Subject: RV-List: Pop Rivet Question > > Perhaps someone on the list can offer some pop rivet advice. Assembling the > pushrods to the rod end bearing calls for a MD 42 BS pop rivet. I have MSP > 42 and LP4-3 rivets in my kit. Both are steel shank with domed heads but the > body on the LP4-3 is grooved lengthwise to allow it to spread more (monel > style?). Which would be stronger in this application? Also, should I do > more then just alodine the inside of the pushrods? Thanks. > > Larry Gagnon > Kitfox N102LG > RV6 Fuselage N6LG (reserved) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Huft" <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Pop Rivet Question
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Well, I hate to start a big debate, but thats what this list is for.... I don't see how you can ever clean the inside of the tube well enough to get the primer to stick. The oil is there from the drawing process, and it is a good sticky oil. Without a good solvent bath, and a 6 foot long bottle brush, and a lot of work, you will never get the inside really clean. Intead, I fogged the inside of the tube with Boelube. Why fight it? rv8 184JH res. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul Besing Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 7:04 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Pop Rivet Question The MD-42 BS rivet is an older number. Use the MSP 42's there. You don't need to alodine the inside of that pushrod...just clean the inside with a cleaner (I like Sher-Will Klean from Sherwin Williams). Then put tape on one end and fog the inside with primer. Turn it over and let it run to both ends and you are done. Be sure you drill those holes with the end installed, and absolutely use a drill press with a v block jig. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Finish Kit (Still) ----- Original Message ----- From: <Larygagnon(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 9:18 PM Subject: RV-List: Pop Rivet Question > > Perhaps someone on the list can offer some pop rivet advice. Assembling the > pushrods to the rod end bearing calls for a MD 42 BS pop rivet. I have MSP > 42 and LP4-3 rivets in my kit. Both are steel shank with domed heads but the > body on the LP4-3 is grooved lengthwise to allow it to spread more (monel > style?). Which would be stronger in this application? Also, should I do > more then just alodine the inside of the pushrods? Thanks. > > Larry Gagnon > Kitfox N102LG > RV6 Fuselage N6LG (reserved) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com>
Subject: Re: Garmin 295 shopping
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Check out http://www.controlvision.com/map.htm before you buy a 295. Greg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com>
Subject: Re: stupid, *&%$ haha thing
Date: Feb 13, 2001
The only way the virus can be associated with the list is the fact that some users have other users in their Address Book. That is how the virus is spread, through the infected computers address book. I know it isn't through the list itself because Matt has done an excellent job with his list software. Any of his lists will not allow you to send an email with an attachment, which is how the virus is spread, through an attached program. If you don't believe me just send an email to the group with an attached file, anything you want, a picture, your favorite screen saver, an EXE file or anything and Matt's server will strip the files off the post before it sends it to the List subscribers. So the spread is actually through users sending email to other users.... And it is not intentional, the virus just sends everyone in their address book the virus. This is the way it really works... I know because I host other none aircraft related Mail Lists and fight these issues also. I've also had users at my company that have gotten this virus and have researched the sources. This is why it is a good practice for User Group Mailing Lists to not allow attachements. Greg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: metal spinners
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Thread-Topic: metal spinners Thread-Index: AcCV13VCc4KDP9Q6RFG66S7VfFglWQ=
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
Anyone know where I can get a polished spinner that would be a direct replacement for Van's spinner? It would have to fit a constant speed prop, and be the same as Van's dimensionally. Bob Japundza RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: Heat muffs
Date: Feb 13, 2001
I called Van's since no one on the list answered. Fur future archive searches this is their answer to my question. The preheat muff is designed to augment the conventional 6" muff to provide additional cabin heat. -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 -----Original Message----- From: Van Artsdalen, Scott [mailto:svanarts(at)unionsafe.com] Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 10:36 AM To: Rv-List (E-mail) Subject: RV-List: Heat muffs Can someone tell me the difference between the preheat muff and the conventional muff that Van's sells in the catalog? Why would I want to use one over the other aside from price? -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: stupid, *&%$ haha thing
Date: Feb 13, 2001
I don't think anyone thinks that Matt's list engine is spreading the virus. You are exactly right on when you say it is a list member. Someone either knowingly or unknowingly was distributing the Hahaha email. Also, remember that if you post to the list, someone now has your email address. They could set things up so that the hahaha email is sent to whomever they receive mail from. You post to the list, it goes out to everyone, it hit's the malicious user's email, and you get nailed with Hahaha. Matt is completely out of the loop. -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 -----Original Message----- From: Greg Yotz [mailto:gyachts(at)kans.com] Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 7:38 AM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: stupid, *&%$ haha thing The only way the virus can be associated with the list is the fact that some users have other users in their Address Book. That is how the virus is spread, through the infected computers address book. I know it isn't through the list itself because Matt has done an excellent job with his list software. Any of his lists will not allow you to send an email with an attachment, which is how the virus is spread, through an attached program. If you don't believe me just send an email to the group with an attached file, anything you want, a picture, your favorite screen saver, an EXE file or anything and Matt's server will strip the files off the post before it sends it to the List subscribers. So the spread is actually through users sending email to other users.... And it is not intentional, the virus just sends everyone in their address book the virus. This is the way it really works... I know because I host other none aircraft related Mail Lists and fight these issues also. I've also had users at my company that have gotten this virus and have researched the sources. This is why it is a good practice for User Group Mailing Lists to not allow attachements. Greg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Falcon Gyros & Instruments
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Falcon Gyros & Instruments Thread-Index: AcCVjDqIrxN+0YCrS9KhgB4yV2/zhAATJdlw
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
Any time you see "imported" instruments in any of the catalogs, they come from these people. They also go by the name Wultrad. My experiences with a attitude indicator and a mechanical tach indicate that the best place for them is in the trash. I've had two of their tachs in my plane and both have failed, and the gyro failed on me when I was on top of a overcast layer, but mysteriously came back to life. I'm still waiting on replacements. Bob Japundza RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Tube Prep.
From: Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
Date: Feb 13, 2001
02/13/2001 11:46:48 AM Take a long 1/4 wood dowel and cut a slot in the end of it. Chuck it up in your elect drill and put a nice long piece of red scotch bright in the slot of the dowell. Put tape over the far end of your tube and pour your alumiprep or solvent in. Clamp the tube in a vice and use the dowell as a rotary bore brush. Just a few times will give you a beautifully clean bore that would almost make your your drill instructor smile. Now pour in some primer, tilt the tube and slowly roll until the entire tube is whetted out. On the small aileron tubes a .45 cal cleaning brush does a bangup job of cleaning etching. Eric Henson "John Huft" (at)matronics.com on 02/13/2001 10:24:46 AM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com cc: Subject: RE: RV-List: Pop Rivet Question Well, I hate to start a big debate, but thats what this list is for.... I don't see how you can ever clean the inside of the tube well enough to get the primer to stick. The oil is there from the drawing process, and it is a good sticky oil. Without a good solvent bath, and a 6 foot long bottle brush, and a lot of work, you will never get the inside really clean. Intead, I fogged the inside of the tube with Boelube. Why fight it? rv8 184JH res. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul Besing Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 7:04 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Pop Rivet Question The MD-42 BS rivet is an older number. Use the MSP 42's there. You don't need to alodine the inside of that pushrod...just clean the inside with a cleaner (I like Sher-Will Klean from Sherwin Williams). Then put tape on one end and fog the inside with primer. Turn it over and let it run to both ends and you are done. Be sure you drill those holes with the end installed, and absolutely use a drill press with a v block jig. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Finish Kit (Still) ----- Original Message ----- From: <Larygagnon(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 9:18 PM Subject: RV-List: Pop Rivet Question > > Perhaps someone on the list can offer some pop rivet advice. Assembling the > pushrods to the rod end bearing calls for a MD 42 BS pop rivet. I have MSP > 42 and LP4-3 rivets in my kit. Both are steel shank with domed heads but the > body on the LP4-3 is grooved lengthwise to allow it to spread more (monel > style?). Which would be stronger in this application? Also, should I do > more then just alodine the inside of the pushrods? Thanks. > > Larry Gagnon > Kitfox N102LG > RV6 Fuselage N6LG (reserved) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2001
From: Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Garmin 295 shopping
Thanks. I've already investigated that option (see the archives?). I need better buttons and easier autopilot interface. It took me a week to decide between the two -- I'm not looking back!! Larry RV-8 fuse --- Greg Yotz wrote: > > Check out http://www.controlvision.com/map.htm before you buy a 295. > > Greg Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2001
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: metal spinners
--- Bob Japundza wrote: > > > Anyone know where I can get a polished spinner that would be a direct > replacement for Van's spinner? It would have to fit a constant speed > prop, and be the same as Van's dimensionally. Sensenich has one. Their web site seems to be down now but sensenich.com should do it. Pricy, though. ~$300 IIRC Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Panel Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2001
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Falcon Gyros & Instruments
Bob Japundza wrote: > > Any time you see "imported" instruments in any of the catalogs, they > come from these people. They also go by the name Wultrad. My > experiences with a attitude indicator and a mechanical tach indicate > that the best place for them is in the trash. I've had two of their > tachs in my plane and both have failed, and the gyro failed on me when I > was on top of a overcast layer, but mysteriously came back to life. I'm > still waiting on replacements. I've got two instruments from Falcon/Wultrad (a turn coordinator and a g-meter) and I'm now wondering if I should go ahead and use them or replace them at this point, while I'm still assembling my panel. Comments? -- Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 #81125 (N118KB) canopy & panel www.egroups.com/files/bostonrvbuilders ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2001
From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: metal spinners
Hi Mike, I have one of Sensenichs spinners. They're made specificly for their prop. It's a good deal at $350 because it's completely finished, just screw it on. It wouldn't work with a CS prop because the cutouts and bulkheads are different. There was one or two minor things that I don't like about mine, that could be better, but overall it was a good choice for the Sensenich prop. Laird 0-360 72FM-83 155 hrs From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Tue, Feb 13, 2001 9:51 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: metal spinners --- Bob Japundza wrote: > > > Anyone know where I can get a polished spinner that would be a direct > replacement for Van's spinner? It would have to fit a constant speed > prop, and be the same as Van's dimensionally. Sensenich has one. Their web site seems to be down now but sensenich.com should do it. Pricy, though. ~$300 IIRC Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Panel Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2001
From: Rob Tonnesen <robt(at)remote.pi-securities.com>
Subject: stupid, *&%$ haha thing
Hi, I'm fairly new to the list and haven't started building quite yet, but at least I can offer a little help on this virus thing before I start 'bombarding' the list with questions about RV's. The way this virus works is that it monitors all incoming and outgoing e-mails on the infected computer and looks for e-mail addresses. It keeps track of all the addresses it finds and eventually starts sending itself to all those addresses. There are also variants of this virus that scan the inbox for e-mail addresses. This virus also supports 'plug-ins', which means it can automatically download updates and give itself new features, or learn new ways to find e-mail addresses. All of this happens without the knowledge of the person using the computer. Listers are most likely getting the virus e-mailed to them because their e-mail address appears in posts to the lists and computers infected with this virus are able to see that e-mail address. It's not really fair to assume the person sending the virus is a malicious user. It's also not fair to say the RV list is the culprit. The infected computer is as much a victim as everyone else. The person who uses that computer might not even know they have the virus. You won't get the virus directly from the list, since the list does not allow attachments, but you could get the virus e-mailed to you directly from the infected computer. If you don't have a virus scanner installed on your computer already (especially Windows users), you should seriously consider getting one. Computer Associates offers a free virus scanner for personal use, as long as you register with your e-mail address. Updates for the scanner are free as well. The price is right, so there is no excuse not to have it installed. I am no way associated with Computer Associates, but here's where you can get the free virus scanner: http://antivirus.ca.com Aside from using a virus scanner, you should generally never open an attachment e-mailed to you unless you were expecting the attachment and it is from a trusted source. Opening attachments without a virus scanner is the computer equivalent to playing Russian Roulette with only one empty chamber. Sorry for the long winded message, but I hope that clears a few things up or helps someone get rid of the virus. Later... Rob Tonnesen "Trying to decide between an RV-6 or an RV-8" On Tue, 13 Feb 2001, Van Artsdalen, Scott wrote: > I don't think anyone thinks that Matt's list engine is spreading the virus. > You are exactly right on when you say it is a list member. Someone either > knowingly or unknowingly was distributing the Hahaha email. Also, remember > that if you post to the list, someone now has your email address. They > could set things up so that the hahaha email is sent to whomever they > receive mail from. You post to the list, it goes out to everyone, it hit's > the malicious user's email, and you get nailed with Hahaha. Matt is > completely out of the loop. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Subject: Re: Garmin 295 shopping
In a message dated 2/12/01 5:33:23 PM Pacific Standard Time, Larry(at)bowenaero.com writes: << I'm in the market for a Garmin 295. $1295 is the best price I've found. Any advice/ideas on who might be able to do better? >> Make sure you check with John Stark (phone number is in the Yeller Pages). I got the best price by far from John on a Garmin 195 recently. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, finish kit stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dwain Harris" <DJaerosports(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Bob Archer Antennas
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Follow Bobs Installation instruction -- Original Message ----- From: RKOdell(at)AOL.COM Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 6:04 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Bob Archer Antennas Does somehone have specific information about how to accomplish this? Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Rite Angle III
Date: Feb 13, 2001
> Why are they so much cheaper? Seems too good to be true. > > > Norman Hunger They have a totally different input methodology. From their website...
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LFrantz/ How does it work if there are no protrusions or moving parts? Local wing pressures are sensed via two small pressure ports in the wing. These wing pressures along with pressures from your existing pitot and static systems are combined. The resultant coefficient of pressure is known to vary uniquely with AOA. The brain box computes your AOA taking into account the flap setting, wing loading, dynamic pressures and the stored flight calibration data unique to your aircraft. The Propriety system has no external probes just two SMALL holes at the wingtips. Have you searched the archives? Ross ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2001
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: metal spinners
--- "Owens, Laird" wrote: > > > Hi Mike, > > I have one of Sensenichs spinners. They're made specificly for their > prop. It's a good deal at $350 because it's completely finished, > just screw it on. It wouldn't work with a CS prop because the > cutouts and bulkheads are different. > > There was one or two minor things that I don't like about mine, that > could be better, but overall it was a good choice for the Sensenich > prop. Well, hell, Laird, When you get that constant speed fan, let me know and I might take the Sensenich spinner off your hands. But if I could afford $350 for a spinner, I might get constant speed, too. You'll have to make me a good price. :) Out of curiousity, what don't you like about it? Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Panel (Sensenich order pending the bills this month...) Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Subject: Re: Pop Rivet Question
In a message dated 2/12/01 8:21:36 PM Pacific Standard Time, Larygagnon(at)AOL.COM writes: << pop rivet advice >> Larry: If I remember correctly Van has been sending the MSP-42s as replacements for the MD-42s they used to supply. Both are Monel rivets with steel stems. I may be wrong but I think the LPs are aluminum. Hope this helps. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, finish kit stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Subject: Re: metal spinners
Now you guys got me wanting one. Only problem is, Im buying a Catto prop. Would it still fit or could be modified to? Guess I wont know for sure without having prop in hand to compare it to a sensenich Kevin in WA -9A panel & cockpit stuff > Laird, > > I'm going to call Sensenich this afternoon to find out if their spinner > will fit Van's bulkheads for the CS prop. I'll let you know what they > say. > > That's right, screw those guys that out climb you. There's only a few > airplanes that will outrun me...and my solution to that big problem is > to start building a Rocket... We'll see who outruns who then! > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Glover" <wirraway2(at)bravo.net.au>
Subject: Re: Sensenich Spinner
Date: Feb 14, 2001
<<< spinner? Trying to decide if it's worth spending an extra several > hundred bucks (ouch!) just for that beautiful shiny look.... > > --Mark Navratil > Cedar Rapids, Iowa > RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87">>> Hi Mark, I'll be able to send you a picture in a couple of weeks, as the spinner is off at present due to painting. When I received mine it was alodined (sp?), and I had it professionally polished. The guy that I used had polished about 5 or 6 Pitts spinners, so he knew what he was doing. Came up like chrome, however Sensenich do not recommend this process, for corrosion reasons. If the aircraft is hangered and the spinner will be regularly polished with "mothers metal polish", or similar, I could see no reason not to polish it. A little bit of extra fitting work had to be done on the spinner for a good fit. Cheers and take care, Ken Glover Hunter Valley Australia RV6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: rpflanze(at)iquest.net
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Subject: stupid, *&%$ haha thing
Nice post Rob. Informative without being inflamatory. Thanks. BTW, the right airplane to build is the one with the little wheel in the back :>) I have a -6 but I really like the -8 a lot. I've been thinking of a next project.... Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (115 hours) > >Hi, > >I'm fairly new to the list and haven't started building quite yet, but at >least I can offer a little help on this virus thing before I start >'bombarding' the list with questions about RV's. > >The way this virus works is that it monitors all incoming and outgoing >e-mails on the infected computer and looks for e-mail addresses. It keeps >track of all the addresses it finds and eventually starts sending itself >to all those addresses. There are also variants of this virus that scan >the inbox for e-mail addresses. This virus also supports 'plug-ins', >which means it can automatically download updates and give itself new >features, or learn new ways to find e-mail addresses. All of this happens >without the knowledge of the person using the computer. > >Listers are most likely getting the virus e-mailed to them because their >e-mail address appears in posts to the lists and computers infected with >this virus are able to see that e-mail address. It's not really fair to >assume the person sending the virus is a malicious user. It's also not >fair to say the RV list is the culprit. The infected computer is as much >a victim as everyone else. The person who uses that computer might not >even know they have the virus. You won't get the virus directly from the >list, since the list does not allow attachments, but you could get the >virus e-mailed to you directly from the infected computer. > >If you don't have a virus scanner installed on your computer already >(especially Windows users), you should seriously consider getting one. >Computer Associates offers a free virus scanner for personal use, as long >as you register with your e-mail address. Updates for the scanner are >free as well. The price is right, so there is no excuse not to have it >installed. I am no way associated with Computer Associates, but here's >where you can get the free virus scanner: http://antivirus.ca.com > >Aside from using a virus scanner, you should generally never open an >attachment e-mailed to you unless you were expecting the attachment and it >is from a trusted source. Opening attachments without a virus scanner is >the computer equivalent to playing Russian Roulette with only one empty >chamber. > >Sorry for the long winded message, but I hope that clears a few things up >or helps someone get rid of the virus. > >Later... >Rob Tonnesen >"Trying to decide between an RV-6 or an RV-8" > >On Tue, 13 Feb 2001, Van Artsdalen, Scott wrote: > >> I don't think anyone thinks that Matt's list engine is spreading the virus. >> You are exactly right on when you say it is a list member. Someone either >> knowingly or unknowingly was distributing the Hahaha email. Also, remember >> that if you post to the list, someone now has your email address. They >> could set things up so that the hahaha email is sent to whomever they >> receive mail from. You post to the list, it goes out to everyone, it hit's >> the malicious user's email, and you get nailed with Hahaha. Matt is >> completely out of the loop. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JusCash(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Subject: Re: Sensenich Spinner
I talked to Terry at the "Homecoming" last year. He told me the spinner came off a production twin. I can't remember which one. Should have wrote it down!!!!!!!!!!!!! Cash Copeland QB #60075 RV6 N46FC (Reserved) Oakland, Ca In a message dated 2/13/01 9:50:31 AM Pacific Standard Time, mnellis(at)peoplepc.com writes: > > > > I don't know if it a Sensenich spinner, but Terry Jantzi has a great looking > polished setup on his VERY nice looking RV-6. You can see it here. > http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/ > > Mike Nellis > Stinson 108-2 N9666K > RV-6 N699BM (res) Gooping up the tanks > Plainfield, IL (LOT) > http://vondane.com/mnellis > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: IO-360 Throttle and mixture Bracket
Date: Feb 13, 2001
I asked the same question last fall and I have come to the conclusion based upon the answers that I was the first person to ever put a Bendix fuel servo on an O-360 A1A (180HP)! I know, ...others have done it, but no one can tell me how. This is the frustrating part of building, when you know it has been done but you can't get the right answers. I bought the Aviat brackets, and for the life of me I can not figure out how to make them work. I think they are designed for the IO -360 (200HP). The only possible way I could figure out how to mount them, would be to drill a hole in the bottom of the sump and bolt it on. Of course, I didn't do that, I designed a bracket that holds both the mixture and throttle cable and had it made out of 1/8" stainless steel. Send a SASE and I will send you a paper copy of the template. Anyone who can put this on a Web page, I'll send you a copy. Bob Busick > Aviat makes brackets that fit both the throttle and mixture cables. If you > look in the archives you should be able to find part numbers. They are > inexpensive and work great. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RV-6A lower cowl question
Date: Feb 13, 2001
I need to remove my spinner and prop in order to get my lower cowl off. Otherwise I like the fit. Do any of you out there have the same situation? This is the newer honeycomb cowl from Van's. The problem is that the cowl needs to be moved forward to clear the airbox and I can't move it forward enough with the spinner in place. It hits the aft spinner bulkhead. Steve Soule Huntington, VT ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2001
From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: metal spinners
Hi Mike, I'll probably try to sell the prop and spinner together when the time comes. I was really torn about the metal spinner, but I like the idea of metal over glass for something rotating that fast, so for me it was a safety thing. Really pissed off some of the other builders on the field when I pulled out of the box. EVERYTHING was finished, ready to bolt on. That's worth something ;-) The two things I didn't like are kinda nitpicky. First, the holes that are punched in the spinner for attachment are something like 3/8 dia. They use 10-32 countersunk screws and washers. I'm sure they used a large hole for tolerance buildup, but it's overkill. The large diameter of the washer caused the washer to stick up slightly off the spinner on the front bulkhead. I would have preferred them to use 8-32's, which would have helped some. If the hole was smaller, one could have used a low height button head screw as option. Call me nuts, but I would have liked to drill those holes myself. The second is hard to describe, but the spinner didn't have a nice smooth contour from the front of the spinner to the back bulkhead. It had some waviness to it. The metal spinning manufacturer could have done a better job, but it was minor. Guess I'm just picky. Laird Stock 0-360/RV-6 SoCal From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Tue, Feb 13, 2001 11:43 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: metal spinners Well, hell, Laird, When you get that constant speed fan, let me know and I might take the Sensenich spinner off your hands. But if I could afford $350 for a spinner, I might get constant speed, too. You'll have to make me a good price. :) Out of curiousity, what don't you like about it? Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Panel (Sensenich order pending the bills this month...) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net>
Subject: Weight and performance
Date: Jan 19, 2000
My last 6 came in at 977 lbs., and I can therefore attest to the sprightly performance of a bare bones airframe.....what acceleration......what response..... I also think the light weight helped me reach my field with less sweat when my engine mysteriously quit, and the glide angle and path were very shallow. I could have come in lighter even with full upholstery and lots of paint had I sprung for a light-weight starter and a less heavy battery. I know I can't repeat 977 on my present 6A due to more stuff than I had or could afford on my other baby. Still not IFR and goody this and goody that, but it will still be within a range that RVs were meant to be as a sport machine that handles like a Coho on a filament line and not a 400 lb. sturgeon bottom feeder on an anchor line. No flame intended, just literary license....no offense.... About goodies and dollars, I am pleased to see here that a lot of you guys live from pay-check to pay-check and buy for the airplane accordingly. I am an impulse buyer and just sprang for two items that left me with $1.12 in my bank account....and I still won't fly for a year.....thank goodness for plastic. Local guys used to moan about how taking up a passenger really affected the flight performance and even full tanks were a penalty.. Well, I think that was a lot of Bravo Sierra to avoid giving anybody a ride. I gave lots of rides with full tanks and fat asses and the airplane still flew like a falcon turned loose from the glove. After all, load the sucker up with sand, rocks, tool box and a Bubba to get a max gross takeoff for the climb test and she still does the job in great fashion... Not sure what this sermon is meant to impart except the RV is a grand airplane light or heavy, and if you like to load it up with panel or baggage or people, that's your business and I am sure the airplane will still make you grin a lot. Austin.....wiring and going squirrely. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Sensenich Spinner
Date: Feb 13, 2001
I just emailed Terry and here is his reply. >This is a heavily modified spinner off of an Aztec. >Terry Ross > I talked to Terry at the "Homecoming" last year. He told me the spinner came > off a production twin. I can't remember which one. Should have wrote it > down!!!!!!!!!!!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Subject: Re: RV-6A lower cowl question
Steve I'm going through this right now. It appears I / we will have to shorten the airbox as much as possible. I followed the plans that came with the airbox kit, it called 16.5 inches, but that will be to long. I'm in the process of shortening it now, i will end up with a longer molded duct from the scoop to the airbox, but the cowl should be easier to install. a local builder gave me this idea, about a month too late, thanks don. but i will probably order another aluminum pan so i can cut it in the right place this time. hope this helps Scott tampa rv6a finishing looking for hanger ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV-6A lower cowl question
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Thread-Topic: RV-List: RV-6A lower cowl question Thread-Index: AcCWC4AUuoYOrZluQIKd2Aq4uTYxkwAAA04w
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
Steve, This is why most RV builders dread removing the bottom cowling after everything is painted. You have to put something on the front of the cowl (I use masking tape) to help prevent the spinner from scratching the cowl during removal. You also have to push on the area behind the spinner to help keep it from getting scratched up but like most things in life it is inevitable that some paint will be removed during the hundreds of times you have the cowl on/off. There really isnt a fix for this because even if you could push the cowl back further the baffle ramps would get in the way. Bob Japundza RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying > -----Original Message----- > From: Stephen J. Soule [mailto:SSoule(at)pfclaw.com] > Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 4:03 PM > To: Rv-List (E-mail) > Subject: RV-List: RV-6A lower cowl question > > > > I need to remove my spinner and prop in order to get my lower > cowl off. > Otherwise I like the fit. Do any of you out there have the > same situation? > This is the newer honeycomb cowl from Van's. > > The problem is that the cowl needs to be moved forward to > clear the airbox > and I can't move it forward enough with the spinner in place. > It hits the > aft spinner bulkhead. > > Steve Soule > Huntington, VT > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Subject: Re: Metal spinners & Catto Props
While were on the subject of metal spinners, I spoke with Craig at Catto Props today, they sell the polished metal ones you see on those plastic airplanes, Lancair, Glastar, etc. They are going to set me up with a prop and polished spinner, with everything forward of the prop flange ready to bolt right on the plane. He is even going to call Vans directly to crunch out the performance numbers. Great outfit. No wonder they are so busy. Kevin Shannon -9A starting to finish ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Subject: Re: Sensenich RPM Restriction
In a message dated 2/13/01 2:53:43 PM Pacific Standard Time, gtanner(at)bendcable.com writes: > It would be interesting to see a comparison of the Sensenich fixed pitch and > the Catto prop on an O-320 engine. > I just talked to them about this, they are setting mine up for 2800 max @ 8000 MSL Kevin Shannon -9A O-320 160 hp ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Subject: Re: Metal spinners & Catto Props
In a message dated 2/13/01 3:19:47 PM Pacific Standard Time, gtanner(at)bendcable.com writes: > Kevin, > Get me one too then haul yer buns down here to Bend and help me catch up to > you! > All you need to do is lock yourself in your shop for about a year, next thing you know an airplane happens. Whats the status on your engine from Germany? Kevin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net>
Subject: Re: Move workshop to Garage?
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Hello Craig, Frank and others, If you want to you can assemble much of the forward section of the fuselage on the work bench in the basement (from the spar area to the baggage area bulkhead) when all the pieces are measured drilled and clekoed together the whole works can be torn apart prepped etc.Then they can taken out to the shop and reassembled on the jig. If you go to Sam Buchanan's site at: you will find some pictures of this procedure. It worked for me. Doing it this way will buy you some more building time while waiting for spring to roll around. Happy trails, Vapor Trails, that is. Jim in Kelowna : Frank and Dorothy Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 1:34 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Move workshop to Garage? > > Craig Paulson wrote: > > I'm finishing up my 6a wings and the fuselage will arrive in a week or so. > > The wings fit out through my basement hatch, but the fuselage will not. I > > seem to have...... > > There's a fair amount of work that you can do in your basement -- > building the bulkheads and some other bits and pieces for a total of > maybe 100 hours building time. Perhaps you can do those first, then move > out to the garage later when the weather is a bit more temperate? > > Frank. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AV8TURDON(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Subject: Re: Metal spinners & Catto Props
Hi, I wonder if you happen to know if they make those spinners for Hartzell Constant Speed Props. Or could give a name to write to. Thanks, Don Champagne N767DC RV-6 0-360/CS ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvator97(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Subject: Re: Sensenich RPM Restriction
In a message dated 2/13/01 2:36:54 PM Pacific Standard Time, rv6flier(at)yahoo.com writes: > They will not go over 2,600 in climb and they > did not have to pull the thottle back much when they level out. They > do not have a problem keeping below 2,600 in level flight. Yes when > you start downhill you can over go over the 2,600 and drop CHT very > fast. The fixed pitch prop for the O-320 is a very efficent prop and I > consider it a cruise prop. It does have excellent climb even with the > pitch needed to keep it at 2,600. One of the local RVs that was > Gary's comments are right on.... can't add much to them. Sometimes when flying down low at full throttle I have to watch the tach closely, (level flight), as it will exceed 2600rpm. Walt N79WH ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis /Fran Flamini" <flamini2(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: IO-360 Throttle and mixture Bracket
Date: Feb 13, 2001
My servo was put on in 1968 can you beat that, Dennis RV-10 Chicago ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 3:20 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: IO-360 Throttle and mixture Bracket > > I asked the same question last fall and I have come to the conclusion based > upon the answers that I was the first person to ever put a Bendix fuel servo > on an O-360 A1A (180HP)! I know, ...others have done it, but no one can > tell me how. This is the frustrating part of building, when you know it has > been done but you can't get the right answers. > > I bought the Aviat brackets, and for the life of me I can not figure out how > to make them work. I think they are designed for the IO -360 (200HP). The > only possible way I could figure out how to mount them, would be to drill a > hole in the bottom of the sump and bolt it on. > > Of course, I didn't do that, I designed a bracket that holds both the > mixture and throttle cable and had it made out of 1/8" stainless steel. > Send a SASE and I will send you a paper copy of the template. Anyone who > can put this on a Web page, I'll send you a copy. > > Bob Busick > > > Aviat makes brackets that fit both the throttle and mixture cables. If > you > > look in the archives you should be able to find part numbers. They are > > inexpensive and work great. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Subject: Re: Metal spinners & Catto Props
In a message dated 2/13/01 3:35:55 PM Pacific Standard Time, AV8TURDON(at)AOL.COM writes: > Hi, > I wonder if you happen to know if they make those spinners for Hartzell > Constant Speed Props. Or could give a name to write to. > Thanks, > Don Champagne > N767DC RV-6 > 0-360/CS Just give craig a call at 209-754-3553. I have had no luck sending them emails. Kevin Shannon ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: Plexiglass scratch
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Aaaauuuuugh! While trimming and fitting and trimming and fitting and trimming and fitting my canopy, I somehow managed to let it brush up against my rollbar (RV4). Now there is a slight scratch on the inside of the canopy. It is located outside of my field of view but right square in the pax's FOV. Please tell me one of you smart fellers out there has a handy dandy way to get rid of a shallow scratch! I'm going to go sit in the closet and sulk. -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA Network Adminstrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 "Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant, for those who foolishly think that somehow they can achieve success without paying the price." ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Subject: Re: RV-6A lower cowl question
In a message dated 2/13/01 4:15:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, SSoule(at)pfclaw.com writes: > I need to remove my spinner and prop in order to get my lower cowl off. > Otherwise I like the fit. Do any of you out there have the same situation? > This is the newer honeycomb cowl from Van's. > > The problem is that the cowl needs to be moved forward to clear the airbox > and I can't move it forward enough with the spinner in place. It hits the > aft spinner bulkhead. > > Steve Soule > Huntington, VT > Sounds like you're past this point, but for builders, I'd recommend leaving 3/8" or more between the spinner and cowl for exactly this reason. For those who're in your (and my) situation, you can cut a 45 degree or so angle on the top inch or so of what I'll call the inner stiffener ring behind the spinner. This is the ring inside the flat portion at the very front of the cowl. Beveling the corners (cut off a triangle with dimensions of maybe 3/4" x 1") will increase your clearance in getting the spinner on and off. Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AV8TURDON(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Subject: Re: Metal spinners & Catto Props
Thank You Kevin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Subject: Re: RV-6A lower cowl question
In a message dated 2/13/01 7:11:10 PM Eastern Standard Time, KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM writes: > In a message dated 2/13/01 4:15:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, > SSoule(at)pfclaw.com writes: > > > > I need to remove my spinner and prop in order to get my lower cowl off. > > Otherwise I like the fit. Do any of you out there have the same > situation? > > This is the newer honeycomb cowl from Van's. > > > > The problem is that the cowl needs to be moved forward to clear the airbox > > and I can't move it forward enough with the spinner in place. It hits the > > aft spinner bulkhead. > > > > Steve Soule > > Huntington, VT > > > > Sounds like you're past this point, but for builders, I'd recommend leaving > 3/8" or more between the spinner and cowl for exactly this reason. For > those > who're in your (and my) situation, you can cut a 45 degree or so angle on > the > top inch or so of what I'll call the inner stiffener ring behind the > spinner. > This is the ring inside the flat portion at the very front of the cowl. > Beveling the corners (cut off a triangle with dimensions of maybe 3/4" x > 1") > will increase your clearance in getting the spinner on and off. > > Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA > Woops.. My last sentence should have said "...in getting the bottom cowl on and off." KB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2001
From: Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-6A lower cowl question
> Steve, Removal of the prop to remove the lower cowl is not the scenario that you want. I know you don't want to hear this but you really should shorten the inlet on the FAB and lengthen the inlet scoop on the cowl. The FAB needs to be short enough to clear the cowl when the cowl is lowered straight down. Mine is tight and I protect the cowl/spinner with a plolartek scarf when removing both top and bottom cowls. Gary Zilik RV-6A O-360/Sensenich > > I need to remove my spinner and prop in order to get my lower cowl off. > Otherwise I like the fit. Do any of you out there have the same > situation? > This is the newer honeycomb cowl from Van's. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2001
From: Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Wood gear leg stiffeners
Austin wrote: > > HI All, > Just curious as to the builders out there who plan to add the > wood stiffeners on the gear legs of their 6A...especially the nose > leg....what are your impressions and results. With the new and improved nose gear from Van's I recall that the wood stiffners/fairing are no longer recommended. > > On my last 6, I put them on because two other 6 flyers here left them off > and then added afterwards with much better results. > I just wondered about the 6A and am leaning towards leaving them off. > Thanks for your input, This is one of those subjects like the "P" word; Lots of opinions. I left mine off and have had no problems. It is supposed to help gear leg shimmy but proper tire inflation and good tires (not the cheapies from Van's) solve that. I have never been is a 6A with the stiffeners so I have no idea how it would effect handling. Gary Zilik RV-6A O-360/72FM with no Gear Leg Stiffeners ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Boalty(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Subject: VM-1000 puzzle pieces
To any and all VM-1000 users: Lookin' for tips on fuel pressure transducer placement. Anybody using the port on the lfow meter and plumbing direct?. Bruce Hukari RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Subject: Re: Plexiglass scratch
From: "Denis (Bum) Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net>
on 2/13/01 16:50, Van Artsdalen, Scott at svanarts(at)unionsafe.com wrote: > > Aaaauuuuugh! While trimming and fitting and trimming and fitting and > trimming and fitting my canopy, I somehow managed to let it brush up against > my rollbar (RV4). Now there is a slight scratch on the inside of the > canopy. It is located outside of my field of view but right square in the > pax's FOV. Please tell me one of you smart fellers out there has a handy > dandy way to get rid of a shallow scratch! I'm going to go sit in the > closet and sulk. > > -- > Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA > Network Adminstrator > Union Safe Deposit Bank > 209-946-5116 > > "Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant, > for those who foolishly think that somehow they > can achieve success without paying the price." > > > > > > > Yes there are several products. I would order the "kit" from aircraft spruce for such. I think the one I used was called micromesh. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Hole sizes
Date: Feb 13, 2001
> Can anyone tell me what size holes are required for headset and mic plugs I guess you mean holes for the sockets? They are 3/8 in. When can I come inspect your work? :-) Hal Kempthorne RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING Santa Clara <==> Stockton ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Kitz" <jkitz(at)greenapple.com>
Subject: Re: Plexiglass scratch
Date: Feb 13, 2001
A lot of us had the same problem. I used 3M Ultrafine paper wet and sanded it out. Follow that with polishing compound on a damp cloth and follow that with the Haze Remover available at any auto parts store. John Kitz N721JK Ohio Subject: RV-List: Plexiglass scratch > > Aaaauuuuugh! While trimming and fitting and trimming and fitting and > trimming and fitting my canopy, I somehow managed to let it brush up against > my rollbar (RV4). Now there is a slight scratch on the inside of the > canopy. It is located outside of my field of view but right square in the > pax's FOV. Please tell me one of you smart fellers out there has a handy > dandy way to get rid of a shallow scratch! I'm going to go sit in the > closet and sulk. > > -- > Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA > Network Adminstrator > Union Safe Deposit Bank > 209-946-5116 > > "Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant, > for those who foolishly think that somehow they > can achieve success without paying the price." > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BSEckstein(at)cs.com
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Subject: Re: IO-360 Throttle and mixture Bracket
Yes, they fit the IO-360-A1B6 200 hp and maybe others. It is obvious how they fit because of existing mounting hard points on the sump of the engine. I was very pleased with the brackets. Brian Eckstein 6A 200hp ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2001
From: Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: cracked canopy
Aaaauuuuugh is right!! Went to the airport yesterday and found a 4-5" crack starting from the back of the rear section of my 6As tilt-up canopy. I stopped drilled it with a 1/16th bit and then rounded the hole's edges with a bigger bit. Hope it works. Fortunately (yeah right) its on the back side where there is less air pressure and not in anyone's line of sight. But it's still ugly. I guess contraction caused by being in the cold hangar is the culprit. This is it's 4th year in these winter conditions. If your still building, take seriously the chapters in the plans and stories in the RV-ator about oversized screw and rivet holes in the canopy. These things really do flex and when they flex enough, something has eventually got to give. Andy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2001
From: Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net>
Subject: Re: VM-1000 puzzle pieces
There are pictures of my placement and set up on my web page if you are interested. > >To any and all VM-1000 users: >Lookin' for tips on fuel pressure transducer placement. Anybody using the >port on the lfow meter and plumbing direct?. >Bruce Hukari RV-4 > > Jim Cimino RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo (570)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kelsonhoffrv9(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Subject: Docken Sprayer
I'm using a older Docken sprayer for doing my priming. It's a cheap syphon unit that just attaches to a 16 oz Dixie cup. There are no moving parts and clean up is really easy. I hadn't used it in years. When I went to start priming parts this weekend it was really spitting paint bad. My first few pieces have spits of paint all over. Fortnately this is just inside primer. Before I go experimenting with it I was wondering if anyone had experience with these sprayers and knew if this was a pressure problem, viscosity problem or what. There is only one adjustment to it (the air nozzle to the paint suction nozzle clearance. It is correct. It seems to spray water fine so I may have needed to thin the paint down some. I only mixed a small batch. By the way, does anyone know if you can thin an epoxy primer like Randolphs Epibond with lacquer thinner. They sell a separate thinner for it in Aircraft Spruce but the local airport shop didn't sell it and I didn't think to ask what they use. Teh cans don't actually call for any thinner to be added but if viscosity is my problem this is likely the only solution. Thanks for any advice. Curt Hoffman Loveland, OH RV-9A (N912WK reserved) Working on Wing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 2001
From: John Ciolino <jbc1(at)pop.snet.net>
Subject: Aileron mounting brackets
Listers, I am working on the RV-8 wing. Van's plans call for riveting the aileron mounting brackets after the wing in is the jig and the skins are fitted. Is there any reason not to rivet these brackets to the rear spar while the skeleton is on the table and easy to reach? John Ciolino RV-8 80151 Long time lurker ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net>
Subject: Re: Plexiglass scratch
Date: Feb 13, 2001
MicroMesh kits will do wonders on scratches. It is a kit of several grades of very very fine sandpaper, and rubbing compound. I think it is as fine as 6000 grit...just be sure to follow the directions, and keep the sanding to a confined area...Spruce sells them, but I have also seen them at local FBO's. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Finish Kit (Still) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 4:50 PM Subject: RV-List: Plexiglass scratch > > Aaaauuuuugh! While trimming and fitting and trimming and fitting and > trimming and fitting my canopy, I somehow managed to let it brush up against > my rollbar (RV4). Now there is a slight scratch on the inside of the > canopy. It is located outside of my field of view but right square in the > pax's FOV. Please tell me one of you smart fellers out there has a handy > dandy way to get rid of a shallow scratch! I'm going to go sit in the > closet and sulk. > > -- > Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA > Network Adminstrator > Union Safe Deposit Bank > 209-946-5116 > > "Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant, > for those who foolishly think that somehow they > can achieve success without paying the price." > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Wood gear leg stiffeners
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wood gear leg stiffeners > > > > I had to abort a take off when 40 ft in the air, doing 80 mph and over > >half the 2300 ft runway behind me..... > > Oh, leave us hanging, eh? What happened to cause the abort?? > > Michael Oh, sorry Michael. Yes - the cause for the abort. The engine developed a surge due to overly lean setting of fuel injectors. As the engine rpm increased during take off it entered the lean region and with insufficient fuel to support that rpm the engine rpm would decay until it dropped back enough to encounter richer fuel mixture and would then advance (surge) until entering the lean region whereupon it would again fall back, etc. This surge (about 500-700 rpm range) happened in less than one second cycles and went through approx 3 before I made the decision to abort. This was electronic fuel injection where you can adjust the fuel injection timing in real time to fine tune the power curve. Clearly a benefit provided it's used wisely, but can obviously bite you if not. Next time I flew the mixture was enriched (probably left twin smoke trails like an F4 {:>)). Setting electronic fuel injection timing is easy, however, you can not really set the timing for rpm past static on the ground. That means you have to extrapolate the injector settings for rpms higher than static and adjust them once in the air and at high rpms. On the next flight I also purposely loaded the prop by climbing steeper to keep the engine rpm near static as I climbed out and gained altitude. At 5000 msl I leveled off and permitted rpm to increase where I had time to adjust the fuel injection timing properly. Ed Anderson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV8bldr" <RV8bldr(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Plexiglass scratch
Date: Feb 13, 2001
Here's some more info on micromesh, for those interested... http://www.sisweb.com/ms/sis-serv/micromes.htm Russ Christopher RV-8 Emp, wing inventoried...! > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul Besing > Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 7:48 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Plexiglass scratch > > > > MicroMesh kits will do wonders on scratches. It is a kit of > several grades > of very very fine sandpaper, and rubbing compound. I think it is > as fine as > 6000 grit...just be sure to follow the directions, and keep the > sanding to a > confined area...Spruce sells them, but I have also seen them at > local FBO's. > > Paul Besing > RV-6A (197AB) Arizona > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing > Finish Kit (Still) > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> > To: > Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 4:50 PM > Subject: RV-List: Plexiglass scratch > > > > > > > Aaaauuuuugh! While trimming and fitting and trimming and fitting and > > trimming and fitting my canopy, I somehow managed to let it brush up > against > > my rollbar (RV4). Now there is a slight scratch on the inside of the > > canopy. It is located outside of my field of view but right > square in the > > pax's FOV. Please tell me one of you smart fellers out there > has a handy > > dandy way to get rid of a shallow scratch! I'm going to go sit in the > > closet and sulk. > > > > -- > > Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA > > Network Adminstrator > > Union Safe Deposit Bank > > 209-946-5116 > > > > "Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant, > > for those who foolishly think that somehow they > > can achieve success without paying the price." > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rquinn1(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 14, 2001
Subject: Re: RV-6A lower cowl question
Steve, we trimed the length of the airbox about 2 inches to give us room to drop the cowl. This is made up with the fabric that came with the airbox and gives enough flex to allow you to push the airbox into the cowl throat when installing it. We also had to extend the forward landing gear leg slot in the bottom about 2 inches forward of the in place leg position so we can drop the cowl and still clear the gear leg. If you need more information contact me via E-Mail. Rod & Rollie RV6A Finishing RQuinn1(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 2001
From: Bob Moore <WP2J(at)swbell.net>
Subject: Faster than normal landing,
(was Component structural failure...) "James Norman, M.D." wrote: > > This issue is the topic of an in-depth article in this month's NTSB Reporter > (Vol 19, No 1, January 2001, pages 8-10). This is the case of a Cessna 210 > which crashed (4 fatalities) 1.6 hours after an annual inspection where the > throttle cable was replaced because the old one was "sticky". The mechanic > apparently did not put a cotter pin in the castle nut which holds the > throttle cable to the throttle control arm. The pilot lost power at 500 ft > AGL just after takeoff and crash landed, with post-crash fire consuming the > entire plane. The NTSB found that the cause of the crash was the throttle > control cable coming off of the throttle control arm, leaving the throttle > control arm in the IDLE position. > > With regards to the thread which discusses this topic, I would have to > assume that if this guy had a spring which made the throttle to go full > throttle upon the linkage coming off, he would not have crashed...he would > have figured it out when he tried to throttle back at some higher altitude, > then would have come in for a faster than normal landing. IMHO. > > -j > 6A, FWF Answer a question for a student pilot ... how does one land an airplane at full throttle? How do you sucessfully scrub off the speed that RVs can build up with a stuck throttle? The next time I meet up with my instructor I will ask him but I thought I'd ask here too. Bob Moore RV-6 empennage Austin, Texas ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2001
From: old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: metal spinners
I have a beautiful polished spinner from a CS Hartzell I'm not using...might sell if price was right...jolly in aurora, ore. Bob Japundza wrote: > > Anyone know where I can get a polished spinner that would be a direct > replacement for Van's spinner? It would have to fit a constant speed > prop, and be the same as Van's dimensionally. > > Bob Japundza > RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Nick Nafsinger" <rvator(at)nafsinger.com>
Subject: Weight and performance
Date: Feb 14, 2001
This is more in relation to the pay check to pay check statement... I feel your pain, income is definitely not my strong point and I may not eat for 3 years, but I WILL BUILD MY -6! Nick Nafsinger Lincoln, NE -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Austin Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2000 11:37 PM Subject: RV-List: Weight and performance My last 6 came in at 977 lbs., and I can therefore attest to the sprightly performance of a bare bones airframe.....what acceleration......what response..... I also think the light weight helped me reach my field with less sweat when my engine mysteriously quit, and the glide angle and path were very shallow. I could have come in lighter even with full upholstery and lots of paint had I sprung for a light-weight starter and a less heavy battery. I know I can't repeat 977 on my present 6A due to more stuff than I had or could afford on my other baby. Still not IFR and goody this and goody that, but it will still be within a range that RVs were meant to be as a sport machine that handles like a Coho on a filament line and not a 400 lb. sturgeon bottom feeder on an anchor line. No flame intended, just literary license....no offense.... About goodies and dollars, I am pleased to see here that a lot of you guys live from pay-check to pay-check and buy for the airplane accordingly. I am an impulse buyer and just sprang for two items that left me with $1.12 in my bank account....and I still won't fly for a year.....thank goodness for plastic. Local guys used to moan about how taking up a passenger really affected the flight performance and even full tanks were a penalty.. Well, I think that was a lot of Bravo Sierra to avoid giving anybody a ride. I gave lots of rides with full tanks and fat asses and the airplane still flew like a falcon turned loose from the glove. After all, load the sucker up with sand, rocks, tool box and a Bubba to get a max gross takeoff for the climb test and she still does the job in great fashion... Not sure what this sermon is meant to impart except the RV is a grand airplane light or heavy, and if you like to load it up with panel or baggage or people, that's your business and I am sure the airplane will still make you grin a lot. Austin.....wiring and going squirrely. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 2001
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: Faster than normal landing, (was Component
structural failure...) > > >"James Norman, M.D." wrote: > >> >> This issue is the topic of an in-depth article in this month's NTSB Reporter >> (Vol 19, No 1, January 2001, pages 8-10). This is the case of a Cessna 210 >> which crashed (4 fatalities) 1.6 hours after an annual inspection where the >> throttle cable was replaced because the old one was "sticky". The mechanic >> apparently did not put a cotter pin in the castle nut which holds the >> throttle cable to the throttle control arm. The pilot lost power at 500 ft >> AGL just after takeoff and crash landed, with post-crash fire consuming the >> entire plane. The NTSB found that the cause of the crash was the throttle >> control cable coming off of the throttle control arm, leaving the throttle >> control arm in the IDLE position. >> >> With regards to the thread which discusses this topic, I would have to >> assume that if this guy had a spring which made the throttle to go full >> throttle upon the linkage coming off, he would not have crashed...he would >> have figured it out when he tried to throttle back at some higher altitude, >> then would have come in for a faster than normal landing. IMHO. >> >> -j >> 6A, FWF > >Answer a question for a student pilot ... how does one land an >airplane at full >throttle? How do you sucessfully scrub off the speed that RVs can >build up with >a stuck throttle? The next time I meet up with my instructor I will >ask him but >I thought I'd ask here too. > >Bob Moore >RV-6 empennage >Austin, Texas > Well, there is no way you are going to be able to land with full throttle. But, instead of having that engine go to idle where ever that failure occurs, you'll have time to fly to the point where you would prefer to have the engine fail and then you'll shut the engine down. Presumably you would do this near a long runway, and they would already have cleared out all the traffic for you. A dead stick landing should be a piece of cake if you can pick the time and place that the engine fails. Its the ones that catch you by surprise that kill people. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt) Ottawa, Canada http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcel Bourgon" <mbourgon(at)elp.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Aileron mounting brackets
Date: Feb 14, 2001
Good morning from El Paso. We are building a 9A and we wondered the same thing. We went ahead and riveted them onto the ribs before we riveted the wing skeleton together. I was able to use my hand squeezer and sure did make life easier. After they were riveted to rib then we went ahead and riveted the rib to spars. Marcel in El Paso ----- Original Message ----- From: John Ciolino <jbc1(at)pop.snet.net> Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 7:43 PM Subject: RV-List: Aileron mounting brackets > > Listers, > > I am working on the RV-8 wing. Van's plans call for riveting the aileron > mounting brackets after the wing in is the jig and the skins are > fitted. Is there any reason not to rivet these brackets to the rear spar > while the skeleton is on the table and easy to reach? > > John Ciolino > RV-8 80151 > Long time lurker > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 2001
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Faster than normal landing, (was Component structural failure...)
> Answer a question for a student pilot ... how does one land an > airplane at full > throttle? How do you sucessfully scrub off the speed that RVs can > build up with > a stuck throttle? The next time I meet up with my instructor I will > ask him but > I thought I'd ask here too. > > Bob Moore > RV-6 empennage > Austin, Texas In the WWI era, there were aircraft which flew without throttles - they were always full speed ahead! Speed was regulated with the ignition. Turn off the engine to slow down, turn it back on for a few seconds full power. So he could have returned overhead at full power and when the runway was made, cut power and deadsticked it. Or "blip" power in as needed... You get the idea. Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Panel Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 2001
From: old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Plexiglass scratch
I have used high abraizion tooth paste...and rub like mad...works for me!..or use your dremel. "Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote: > > Aaaauuuuugh! While trimming and fitting and trimming and fitting and > trimming and fitting my canopy, I somehow managed to let it brush up against > my rollbar (RV4). Now there is a slight scratch on the inside of the > canopy. It is located outside of my field of view but right square in the > pax's FOV. Please tell me one of you smart fellers out there has a handy > dandy way to get rid of a shallow scratch! I'm going to go sit in the > closet and sulk. > > -- > Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA > Network Adminstrator > Union Safe Deposit Bank > 209-946-5116 > > "Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant, > for those who foolishly think that somehow they > can achieve success without paying the price." > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Faster than normal landing,(was Component structural failure...)
Date: Feb 14, 2001
>how does one land an airplane at full throttle? In slow flight? hal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com>
Subject: Re: Garmin 295 shopping
Date: Feb 14, 2001
Check out these guys. They have done well for me in the past... They also have some good information on their site. http://www.seaerospace.com/index.htm Dave Burton RV6A, wings Seattle ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Faster than normal landing, (was Component structural failure...)
Date: Feb 14, 2001
Pull out the mixture. The farther you pull the less power produced. Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh EAA Chapter 75 helping fellow aviators ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Moore" <WP2J(at)swbell.net> Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 12:52 AM Subject: RV-List: Faster than normal landing, (was Component structural failure...) > > > "James Norman, M.D." wrote: > > > > > This issue is the topic of an in-depth article in this month's NTSB Reporter > > (Vol 19, No 1, January 2001, pages 8-10). This is the case of a Cessna 210 > > which crashed (4 fatalities) 1.6 hours after an annual inspection where the > > throttle cable was replaced because the old one was "sticky". The mechanic > > apparently did not put a cotter pin in the castle nut which holds the > > throttle cable to the throttle control arm. The pilot lost power at 500 ft > > AGL just after takeoff and crash landed, with post-crash fire consuming the > > entire plane. The NTSB found that the cause of the crash was the throttle > > control cable coming off of the throttle control arm, leaving the throttle > > control arm in the IDLE position. > > > > With regards to the thread which discusses this topic, I would have to > > assume that if this guy had a spring which made the throttle to go full > > throttle upon the linkage coming off, he would not have crashed...he would > > have figured it out when he tried to throttle back at some higher altitude, > > then would have come in for a faster than normal landing. IMHO. > > > > -j > > 6A, FWF > > Answer a question for a student pilot ... how does one land an airplane at full > throttle? How do you sucessfully scrub off the speed that RVs can build up with > a stuck throttle? The next time I meet up with my instructor I will ask him but > I thought I'd ask here too. > > Bob Moore > RV-6 empennage > Austin, Texas > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jones, Bryan D." <bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
Subject: Aileron mounting brackets
Date: Feb 14, 2001
FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS!!! I can't emphasize this enough! Van's did a good job with the documentation (on the -8). My most significant mistakes came when I didn't follow the instructions. You might think you can get away with skipping around a little and doing something tricky, but I really recommend generally trusting the documentation. Bryan Jones -8 765BJ Pearland, Texas ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 2001
From: Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz>
Subject: Re: Faster than normal landing,(was Component structural
failure...) Bob Moore wrote: > Answer a question for a student pilot ... how does one land an airplane at full > throttle? How do you sucessfully scrub off the speed that RVs can build up with > a stuck throttle? The next time I meet up with my instructor I will ask him but > I thought I'd ask here too. My guess is that the hope is that you would discover the stuck throttle in a recoverable position. In most situations, if the throttle suddenly went wide open you would be able to climb away, and then once you had enough altitude, turn the engine off and come in for a dead-stick landing. However, once the engine is stopped, I'm not sure whether the engine would start again with the throttle stuck wide open. Therefore my guess is that having the throttle stick wide open rather than closed is of little benefit. IIRC, most Lycomings can only run for a few minutes at full power. If you were a long way from an airport when it happened, I guess you'd have to climb to 5,000ft or more so that wide-open throttle would only produce 75% power. Frank. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 2001
From: Robert Blum <bob(at)theblums.net>
Subject: changing rv6a to rv6
The engine needs a rebuild. How big a job is it to change wheel configuration to rv6? Since the motor is coming off, a change of motor mount would be relatitvly easy..... BUT, what else is involved? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Faster than normal landing, (was Component structural failure...)
Date: Feb 14, 2001
Don't turn off the ignition! You will blow the muffler. Use the mixture instead. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Thompson" <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 6:38 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Faster than normal landing, (was Component structural failure...) > > > Answer a question for a student pilot ... how does one land an > > airplane at full > > throttle? How do you sucessfully scrub off the speed that RVs can > > build up with > > a stuck throttle? The next time I meet up with my instructor I will > > ask him but > > I thought I'd ask here too. > > > > Bob Moore > > RV-6 empennage > > Austin, Texas > > > In the WWI era, there were aircraft which flew without throttles - they > were always full speed ahead! > > Speed was regulated with the ignition. Turn off the engine to slow > down, turn it back on for a few seconds full power. > > So he could have returned overhead at full power and when the runway > was made, cut power and deadsticked it. > Or "blip" power in as needed... You get the idea. > > Mike Thompson > Austin, TX > -6 N140RV (Reserved) > Panel > > > Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 > a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 2001
From: Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz>
Subject: Re: Faster than normal landing, (was Component structural
failure...) Mike Thompson wrote: > In the WWI era, there were aircraft which flew without throttles - they > were always full speed ahead! Of course, those old stringbags were a tad more draggy than an RV! And those old rotaries weren't putting out 180hp. > Speed was regulated with the ignition. Turn off the engine to slow > down, turn it back on for a few seconds full power. I'm not convinced that a Lyc would restart with the throttle wide open. Anyone tried that? Or willing to try it? Frank. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 2001
Subject: Re: Docken Sprayer
From: "Denis (Bum) Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net>


February 08, 2001 - February 14, 2001

RV-Archive.digest.vol-ke