RV-Archive.digest.vol-kf
February 14, 2001 - February 20, 2001
on 2/13/01 19:21, Kelsonhoffrv9(at)AOL.COM at Kelsonhoffrv9(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> I'm using a older Docken sprayer for doing my priming. It's a cheap syphon
> unit that just attaches to a 16 oz Dixie cup. There are no moving parts and
> clean up is really easy. I hadn't used it in years. When I went to start
> priming parts this weekend it was really spitting paint bad. My first few
> pieces have spits of paint all over. Fortnately this is just inside primer.
>
> Before I go experimenting with it I was wondering if anyone had experience
> with these sprayers and knew if this was a pressure problem, viscosity
> problem or what. There is only one adjustment to it (the air nozzle to the
> paint suction nozzle clearance. It is correct. It seems to spray water fine
> so I may have needed to thin the paint down some. I only mixed a small batch.
>
> By the way, does anyone know if you can thin an epoxy primer like Randolphs
> Epibond with lacquer thinner. They sell a separate thinner for it in Aircraft
> Spruce but the local airport shop didn't sell it and I didn't think to ask
> what they use. Teh cans don't actually call for any thinner to be added but
> if viscosity is my problem this is likely the only solution.
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> Curt Hoffman Loveland, OH
> RV-9A (N912WK reserved)
> Working on Wing
>
Check the vent hole. If it is plugged, that was what caused most of my
problems. You can thin veriprime with acetone. thinned out primer sprays a
lot easier. you are looking for a very thin coat anyway.
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: changing rv6a to rv6 |
In a message dated 2/14/01 7:57:15 AM Central Standard Time, bob(at)theblums.net
writes:
<< The engine needs a rebuild. How big a job is it to change wheel
configuration to rv6? Since the motor is coming off, a change of motor
mount would be relatitvly easy..... BUT, what else is involved?
>>
You would also have to add a doubler to the F-611 bulkhead at the aft end of
the plane to reienforce it for the tailwheel cut the necessary holes to
install tailwheel gear. Other than re-do your weight & balance calculations
and remove the 6a gear mounts and plug the holes in the fuselage bottom, I
can't think of anything else.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Finish Kit)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wood gear leg stiffeners |
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wood gear leg stiffeners
>
> >I would recommend the wood stiffeners for two reasons. 1. They
> >tend to reduce the shimmy and bounce of the Whitman type gears
> >and 2. They can have a beneficial effect on hard braking. How do
> >I know? Well ......
>
> 1. Just curious and no flaming intended; but, I've heard this before
> and wonder where the information was derived from. Have you
> flown your airplane without the wood stiffeners and felt shimmy? If
> not, how do you know that the shimmy and bounce is reduced? As I
> said, I'm just curious.
Yes, I initially flew my RV-6A without the wood stiffeners and disliked the
amount of bouncing and swaying. I tried the nose gear as well without the
stiffeners and found that it did shimmy under certain conditions. I then
applied the stiffeners and liked the ride much better. Not trying to
convince anybody to install stiffeners, this is just my experience with
them.
> From my experience with my RV-6A that doesn't have stiffeners, I
> don't get any shimmy except when I don't have the nose gear nut
> torqued down enough. I just tighten it down when needed. Of
> course, I did balance the wheel pants due to what I had learned
> about Grumman wheel pants when I owned my Cheetah.
>
> I was afraid of putting the wood stiffeners on my gear legs. There
> were too many reports of cracks in the nose gear bend at the mount
> end. I'm not an engineer; but, it made sense to me that the wood
> was concentrating the loads at the bend and causing them to crack.
> I decided to try the gears without wood first. If needed, I could put
> them on later. After a year of flying mine, and a lot of landings, I've
> not added the wood and don't plan to.
I check my original nose gear with dye penetration and found no cracks, but
changed over to the beefer nose gear that van offer as replacement just to
be on safe side. I flew the new one initially without the stiffener and
noticed what appeared to be a tendency for the nose gear to tuck under (at
least that is what it felt like - I am certain it was not really tucking
under), so added the stiffener and that went away. No need to add wood if
your gear is giving you what you want. I would not suggest that anyone take
my advice over Van's regarding wood stiffeners, it is just that I have tried
it both ways and found I prefer the gear with wood stiffeners.
> 2. You were one lucky person. I know how short 2300' of runway is
> and wouldn't want to do what you did. However, I've been known to
> do some heavy stops to turn off at the first exit just to show off. My
> brakes and tires paid for that. :-) No hopping, so far.
>
Yes, a second or two more and there would not have been adequate runway
remaining. Does get your old heart a pounding {:>). Whether the gear would
have hopped without the wood stiffeners is conjecture on my part, but having
seem similar response to hard braking with wheels on spring gears, I do
believe that the stiffeners minimized that tendency. But hopefully, most
folks will not face that situtation to find out.
> Didn't I just read in one of the threads that Van's no longer suggests
> the wood stiffeners? If so, there must be a reason for that. Maybe
> they learned what I suspected about those load concentrations? :-)
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS
>
Good questions and observations, Jim
Best Regards
Ed Anderson
Matthews NC
RV-6A N494BW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron mounting brackets |
Marcel, have any problems come up later using this approach?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: Tail done, starting on wings
> Good morning from El Paso.
> We are building a 9A and we wondered the same thing. We went ahead and
> riveted them onto the ribs before we riveted the wing skeleton together.
> I was able to use my hand squeezer and sure did make life easier. After
> they were riveted to rib then we went ahead and riveted the rib to spars.
> Marcel in El Paso
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Faster than normal landing,(was Component structural failure...) |
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Moore <WP2J(at)swbell.net>
Date: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 1:37 AM
Subject: RV-List: Faster than normal landing,(was Component structural
failure...)
>
>
>"James Norman, M.D." wrote:
>
>>
>> This issue is the topic of an in-depth article in this month's NTSB
Reporter
>> (Vol 19, No 1, January 2001, pages 8-10). This is the case of a Cessna
210
>> which crashed (4 fatalities) 1.6 hours after an annual inspection where
the
>> throttle cable was replaced because the old one was "sticky". The
mechanic
>> apparently did not put a cotter pin in the castle nut which holds the
>> throttle cable to the throttle control arm. The pilot lost power at 500
ft
>> AGL just after takeoff and crash landed, with post-crash fire consuming
the
>> entire plane. The NTSB found that the cause of the crash was the throttle
>> control cable coming off of the throttle control arm, leaving the
throttle
>> control arm in the IDLE position.
>>
>> With regards to the thread which discusses this topic, I would have to
>> assume that if this guy had a spring which made the throttle to go full
>> throttle upon the linkage coming off, he would not have crashed...he
would
>> have figured it out when he tried to throttle back at some higher
altitude,
>> then would have come in for a faster than normal landing. IMHO.
>>
>> -j
>> 6A, FWF
>
>Answer a question for a student pilot ... how does one land an airplane at
full
>throttle? How do you sucessfully scrub off the speed that RVs can build up
with
>a stuck throttle? The next time I meet up with my instructor I will ask him
but
>I thought I'd ask here too.
>
>Bob Moore
>RV-6 empennage
>Austin, Texas
>
You use the mixture control to moderate power. In the 70's there was an
article in an aviation magazine about an STC for a Piper that allowed full
flight envelope power control with wide-open throttle and power moderation
with mixture. In an emergency you will disregard the roughness when well
lean of peak. The engine is getting its cooling from excess air rather than
fuel.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 43 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Faster than normal landing, (was Component structural failure...) |
Thanks for the clarification, Cy. The ensuing backfire could also start a
fire. As a matter of safety, I'd feel more comfortable if list members
would leave suggestions on emergency procedures to those that are qualified
to answer them. I respect the right of any member to comment on any topic
but I feel this is a critical area with respect to safety. Some of the
comments (Lyc's can't run continuously at 100% power, use mag switch to
moderate power) could get a pilot into trouble. Please don't take offense
gentlemen -- valuable RVs and even more valuable lives are potentially at
stake here.
Off my soapbox -- and my apologies for the rather direct wording.
Dennis Persyk
-----Original Message-----
From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Date: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 8:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Faster than normal landing, (was Component structural
failure...)
>
>Don't turn off the ignition! You will blow the muffler. Use the mixture
>instead.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mike Thompson" <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
>To:
>Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 6:38 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Faster than normal landing, (was Component structural
>failure...)
>
>
>>
>> > Answer a question for a student pilot ... how does one land an
>> > airplane at full
>> > throttle? How do you sucessfully scrub off the speed that RVs can
>> > build up with
>> > a stuck throttle? The next time I meet up with my instructor I will
>> > ask him but
>> > I thought I'd ask here too.
>> >
>> > Bob Moore
>> > RV-6 empennage
>> > Austin, Texas
>>
>>
>> In the WWI era, there were aircraft which flew without throttles - they
>> were always full speed ahead!
>>
>> Speed was regulated with the ignition. Turn off the engine to slow
>> down, turn it back on for a few seconds full power.
>>
>> So he could have returned overhead at full power and when the runway
>> was made, cut power and deadsticked it.
>> Or "blip" power in as needed... You get the idea.
>>
>> Mike Thompson
>> Austin, TX
>> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
>> Panel
>>
>>
>> Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
>> a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Brooks" <brooksw(at)inac.gc.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: priming aluminum |
For those scratching their heads over this, there is an informative article by Detco at www.detcosterling.com/slacguide.htm.
Bill Brooks
691 Island Park Drive,
Ottawa, ON
Canada
RV-6A in progress
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Faster than normal landing, (was Component structural failure...) |
> I'm not convinced that a Lyc would restart with the throttle wide
> open.
> Anyone tried that? Or willing to try it?
>
> Frank.
In discussions I've had with folks regarding aerobatics in normally
aspirated RV's and negative G's, they mention that if you go negative
long enough for the engine to quit for lack of fuel, then you just get
G's back on it and the engine will "re-start", as in start running
again, in which case I assume the prop is windmilling. Full throttle?
Dunno.
I quoted the "re-start" because I think that term is confusing this
discussion.
I also learned from the information to use mixture vice mags if I ever
get in the situation that started this thread...
Spring load the throttle full open and if the cable malfunctions, the
mixture becomes the throttle.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Panel
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Metal spinners & Catto Props |
Craig is a one-man operation. He only checks his email once a day when he
gets home. Give him a call. He's very friendly and helpful.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Adminstrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
"Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant,
for those who foolishly think that somehow they
can achieve success without paying the price."
-----Original Message-----
From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM [mailto:Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM]
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 3:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Metal spinners & Catto Props
In a message dated 2/13/01 3:35:55 PM Pacific Standard Time,
AV8TURDON(at)AOL.COM writes:
> Hi,
> I wonder if you happen to know if they make those spinners for Hartzell
> Constant Speed Props. Or could give a name to write to.
> Thanks,
> Don Champagne
> N767DC RV-6
> 0-360/CS
Just give craig a call at 209-754-3553. I have had no luck sending them
emails.
Kevin Shannon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron mounting brackets |
The only reason I can think of not to rivet them on until needed is that
unless the holes and location of the bracket are predrilled (by the factory)
then you really have no idea where the final location of the bracket should
be. It may ve close enough, or then again it might not. My rule of thumb when
building my non prepunched 6A was to not drill or rivet anything until I
absolutly had to.
Gary Zilik
6A O-360/Sensenich
>
> Good morning from El Paso.
> We are building a 9A and we wondered the same thing. We went ahead and
> riveted them onto the ribs before we riveted the wing skeleton together.
> I was able to use my hand squeezer and sure did make life easier. After
> they were riveted to rib then we went ahead and riveted the rib to spars.
> Marcel in El Paso
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John Ciolino <jbc1(at)pop.snet.net>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 7:43 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Aileron mounting brackets
>
> >
> > Listers,
> >
> > I am working on the RV-8 wing. Van's plans call for riveting the aileron
> > mounting brackets after the wing in is the jig and the skins are
> > fitted. Is there any reason not to rivet these brackets to the rear spar
> > while the skeleton is on the table and easy to reach?
> >
> > John Ciolino
> > RV-8 80151
> > Long time lurker
> >
> >
>
> _
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Faster than normal landing,(was Component structur |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>little benefit. IIRC, most Lycomings can only run for a few minutes at
>full power.
Our normally aspirated, direct drive Lycomings (O-320 and O-360) are
certified to operate continuously at 100% power. If there are any
exceptions please let me know.
This is discussed briefly on Lycoming's very informative web site. Also
look at the part about leaning; nothing like your instructor told you.
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/publications/operating_engine_at_ta
keoff_and_climb.html
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cracked canopy |
In a message dated 2/13/01 6:15:36 PM Pacific Standard Time,
winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com writes:
<< If your still building, take seriously the chapters in the plans and
stories in the RV-ator about oversized screw and rivet holes in the canopy >>
Andy: Did you oversize the holes at all and if so to what size?
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Faster than normal landing, (was Component structura |
l failure...)
The C-85 in my old Aeronca Champ would start just fine at full throttle. A
little used hot-start procedure only used when there was a qualified
hand-propper on the front and a qualified pilot in the seat. Many a pilot
have found out that without the aforementioned precautions, a plane will
start up, leap forward, and chew up other airplanes or even take to the air,
not caring that there wasn't a qualified pilot at the controls or any pilot
for that matter.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Adminstrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
"Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant,
for those who foolishly think that somehow they
can achieve success without paying the price."
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Thompson [mailto:grobdriver(at)yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 7:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Faster than normal landing, (was Component
structural failure...)
> I'm not convinced that a Lyc would restart with the throttle wide
> open.
> Anyone tried that? Or willing to try it?
>
> Frank.
In discussions I've had with folks regarding aerobatics in normally
aspirated RV's and negative G's, they mention that if you go negative
long enough for the engine to quit for lack of fuel, then you just get
G's back on it and the engine will "re-start", as in start running
again, in which case I assume the prop is windmilling. Full throttle?
Dunno.
I quoted the "re-start" because I think that term is confusing this
discussion.
I also learned from the information to use mixture vice mags if I ever
get in the situation that started this thread...
Spring load the throttle full open and if the cable malfunctions, the
mixture becomes the throttle.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Panel
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Plexiglass scratch |
In a message dated 2/13/01 5:31:05 PM Pacific Standard Time,
deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net writes:
> on 2/13/01 16:50, Van Artsdalen, Scott at svanarts(at)unionsafe.com wrote:
>
> svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
> >
> > Aaaauuuuugh! While trimming and fitting and trimming and fitting and
> > trimming and fitting my canopy, I somehow managed to let it brush up
> against
> > my rollbar (RV4). Now there is a slight scratch on the inside of the
> >
Don't let something like that make you sulk...your canopy can be sanded
(2000-2500 grit wet dry) and then repolished. If you have any scrap left use
that for your test.
Tim Barnes
N39TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Faster than normal landing, (was Component structura |
l failure...)
I find this thread disturbing. If you build the a/c to
proper specs and then maintain the a/c in a reasonably
timely manner i.e. performing 25, 50, 75, and 100 hour
inspections also the annual you should not have a
problem with sticking or broken throttle cables or for
that matter mixture cables cracked weldments etc. We
are building an airplane to fly in and I believe that
safety is paramount. The aformentioned problem was on
a spam can and probably in all likelyhood maintained
by a mechanic that was not paid well because he
obviously did not pay attention to detail. Guys just
build the airplane to spec's and maintain those specs
and since most all of us that are building will have
the repairmans certificate on that airplane, maintain
that airplane as if your life depended on it because
someday it just might. To the other guys who do not
have the repairmans certificate I would suggest
getting an A&P who is familiar with the RV series a/c.
Do not use anyone who is not for this reason. An A&P
who is "type specific" will know the intricacies of
the a/c and know what to look for while performing
your annual. Sure you may get an A&P who is thourough
but in the back of your mind do you want a job done by
a guy who is not really familiar with your a/c? that
is for you to decide. I just hate to see needless
accidents due to negligence or pure stupidity.
Regards
Glenn Williams
--- "Van Artsdalen, Scott"
wrote:
> Scott"
>
> The C-85 in my old Aeronca Champ would start just
> fine at full throttle. A
> little used hot-start procedure only used when there
> was a qualified
> hand-propper on the front and a qualified pilot in
> the seat. Many a pilot
> have found out that without the aforementioned
> precautions, a plane will
> start up, leap forward, and chew up other airplanes
> or even take to the air,
> not caring that there wasn't a qualified pilot at
> the controls or any pilot
> for that matter.
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Adminstrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
> "Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant,
> for those who foolishly think that somehow they
> can achieve success without paying the price."
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Thompson
> [mailto:grobdriver(at)yahoo.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 7:10 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Faster than normal
> landing, (was Component
> structural failure...)
>
>
>
>
> > I'm not convinced that a Lyc would restart with
> the throttle wide
> > open.
> > Anyone tried that? Or willing to try it?
> >
> > Frank.
>
>
> In discussions I've had with folks regarding
> aerobatics in normally
> aspirated RV's and negative G's, they mention that
> if you go negative
> long enough for the engine to quit for lack of fuel,
> then you just get
> G's back on it and the engine will "re-start", as in
> start running
> again, in which case I assume the prop is
> windmilling. Full throttle?
> Dunno.
>
> I quoted the "re-start" because I think that term is
> confusing this
> discussion.
>
> I also learned from the information to use mixture
> vice mags if I ever
> get in the situation that started this thread...
>
> Spring load the throttle full open and if the cable
> malfunctions, the
> mixture becomes the throttle.
>
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Panel
>
>
> Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail -
> only $35
> a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 Throttle and mixture Bracket |
>I asked the same question last fall and I have come to the conclusion
> based upon the answers that I was the first person to ever put a Bendix
fuel
> servo on an O-360 A1A (180HP)!
> My servo was put on in 1968 can you beat that,
Not if you can tell me how you mounted the throttle/mixture brackets.
I know it has been done, but sometimes in the RV building process I wonder
to myself, if I am the first person to ever do some of these things. I have
yet
to find anyone who can explain to me how to mount the throttle/mixture
brackets for a Bendix Servo on an 0-360 A1A engine. I have talked to
Lycoming and they tell me that this is an airframe problem, I talked to
Van's and they told me get a carb and their bracket for the carb. I talked
to Bendix and they told me Huh!!?!
If you know how, please don't keep it a secret.
Bob Busick
----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis /Fran Flamini <flamini2(at)home.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 3:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: IO-360 Throttle and mixture Bracket
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 3:20 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: IO-360 Throttle and mixture Bracket
>
>
> >
> > I asked the same question last fall and I have come to the conclusion
> based
> > upon the answers that I was the first person to ever put a Bendix fuel
> servo
> > on an O-360 A1A (180HP)! I know, ...others have done it, but no one can
> > tell me how. This is the frustrating part of building, when you know it
> has
> > been done but you can't get the right answers.
> >
> > I bought the Aviat brackets, and for the life of me I can not figure out
> how
> > to make them work. I think they are designed for the IO -360 (200HP).
> The
> > only possible way I could figure out how to mount them, would be to
drill
> a
> > hole in the bottom of the sump and bolt it on.
> >
> > Of course, I didn't do that, I designed a bracket that holds both the
> > mixture and throttle cable and had it made out of 1/8" stainless steel.
> > Send a SASE and I will send you a paper copy of the template. Anyone
who
> > can put this on a Web page, I'll send you a copy.
> >
> > Bob Busick
> >
> > > Aviat makes brackets that fit both the throttle and mixture cables.
If
> > you
> > > look in the archives you should be able to find part numbers. They
are
> > > inexpensive and work great.
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Bob Archer Antennas |
In a message dated 02/13/2001 10:17:27 PM Pacific Standard Time,
DJaerosports(at)msn.com writes:
>
> Are, You yourself stated you have'nt used Bobs antenna. I have for the la> st
3yrs and dont understand why it is that if I dissagree with you, you g> o off
on a tangent to prove yourself right. No KIDDING theres better ante> nnas out
there. Bobs a great guy. I picked up the antenna at his home, me> t his wife(and
dog)he's a down to earth guy and I would buy another anten> na from him because
of him.You're right its a Great antenna so take a Chi> ll Pill and go back
and work on your plane.
>
> Dwain
>
Hi Dwain and all,
It's nice that you met Bob, and that you think he's a nice guy. But like
other comments on this thread, it's off the subject.
Bob is retired from TRW. After spending his carrer designing antenna's for
TRW. Bob has documented REAL radiation patterns of antenna's on also any
shape imaginable.
If Bob says that the best location for a COM antenna is on top of the
vertical stabilizer, it's because he has PLOTTED that radiation pattern, and
the radiation pattern for every other imaginable location of an antenna on an
aircraft. (Bob may have started with a textbook, but it went past it long
ago.)
If Bob Archer's wingtip COM antenna works as well as a standard belly mounted
COM, why put the COM antenna on the belly?
The question is mine; The choice is yours.
Bob will still tell you that the best COM antenna location is on the top of
vertical stabilizer.
BTW, I've know Bob for about 20 years, and he is a nice guy.
Just my opinion.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 Throttle and mixture Bracket |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
17, 2001) at 02/14/2001 03:21:01 PM
I have installed an Airflow Performance fuel injection system on my O-360
AIA. Perhaps the Airflow brackets could be used for your Bendix
installation?
Dean Pichon
"Bob Busick" (at)matronics.com on 02/14/2001 04:19:53 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: IO-360 Throttle and mixture Bracket
>I asked the same question last fall and I have come to the conclusion
> based upon the answers that I was the first person to ever put a Bendix
fuel
> servo on an O-360 A1A (180HP)!
> My servo was put on in 1968 can you beat that,
Not if you can tell me how you mounted the throttle/mixture brackets.
I know it has been done, but sometimes in the RV building process I wonder
to myself, if I am the first person to ever do some of these things. I
have
yet
to find anyone who can explain to me how to mount the throttle/mixture
brackets for a Bendix Servo on an 0-360 A1A engine. I have talked to
Lycoming and they tell me that this is an airframe problem, I talked to
Van's and they told me get a carb and their bracket for the carb. I talked
to Bendix and they told me Huh!!?!
If you know how, please don't keep it a secret.
Bob Busick
----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis /Fran Flamini <flamini2(at)home.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 3:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: IO-360 Throttle and mixture Bracket
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 3:20 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: IO-360 Throttle and mixture Bracket
>
>
> >
> > I asked the same question last fall and I have come to the conclusion
> based
> > upon the answers that I was the first person to ever put a Bendix fuel
> servo
> > on an O-360 A1A (180HP)! I know, ...others have done it, but no one
can
> > tell me how. This is the frustrating part of building, when you know
it
> has
> > been done but you can't get the right answers.
> >
> > I bought the Aviat brackets, and for the life of me I can not figure
out
> how
> > to make them work. I think they are designed for the IO -360 (200HP).
> The
> > only possible way I could figure out how to mount them, would be to
drill
> a
> > hole in the bottom of the sump and bolt it on.
> >
> > Of course, I didn't do that, I designed a bracket that holds both the
> > mixture and throttle cable and had it made out of 1/8" stainless steel.
> > Send a SASE and I will send you a paper copy of the template. Anyone
who
> > can put this on a Web page, I'll send you a copy.
> >
> > Bob Busick
> >
> > > Aviat makes brackets that fit both the throttle and mixture cables.
If
> > you
> > > look in the archives you should be able to find part numbers. They
are
> > > inexpensive and work great.
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
**** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one of
Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may contain
confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee
only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not
the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Faster than normal landing, (was Component structural failure...) |
| From: | Scott.Fink(at)microchip.com |
02/14/2001 01:39:11 PM,
Serialize complete at 02/14/2001 01:39:11 PM
When doing Immelman turns in a Citabria (no inverted fuel), the throttle
is wide open and at the top the engine stumbles a lot (I don't know if I
would call it quit or not), but it goes back to full power before
completing the roll at the top.
Scott Fink
RV6, hanging flap on left wing
Mike Thompson
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
02/14/2001 08:09 AM
Please respond to rv-list
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Faster than normal landing, (was Component
structural
failure...)
> I'm not convinced that a Lyc would restart with the throttle wide
> open.
> Anyone tried that? Or willing to try it?
>
> Frank.
In discussions I've had with folks regarding aerobatics in normally
aspirated RV's and negative G's, they mention that if you go negative
long enough for the engine to quit for lack of fuel, then you just get
G's back on it and the engine will "re-start", as in start running
again, in which case I assume the prop is windmilling. Full throttle?
Dunno.
I quoted the "re-start" because I think that term is confusing this
discussion.
I also learned from the information to use mixture vice mags if I ever
get in the situation that started this thread...
Spring load the throttle full open and if the cable malfunctions, the
mixture becomes the throttle.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Panel
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rpflanze(at)iquest.net |
| Subject: | Faster than normal landing, (was Component structura |
l failure...)
Boy oh boy Glenn, what's the matter? Where you having a bad day or what?
>I find this thread disturbing.
Why? The thoughtful exchange of ideas (even bad ones) help to stimulate thinking.
Welcome to one of the major drawbacks of the information age......too much
information. Some of it's bad and some of it's good, and most of it is useless.
If anyone on the List is making life or death decisions based solely upon the
information posted, you'd better reconsider.
>If you build the a/c to proper specs and then maintain the a/c >in a reasonably
timely manner i.e. performing 25, 50, 75, and >100 hour inspections also the
annual you should not have a
>problem with sticking or broken throttle cables or for
>that matter mixture cables cracked weldments etc.
Well, if that logic held water then no major airliner would fall out of the
sky due to a mechanical problem because they are the most inspected aircraft
on earth!! And the people doing the inspections are probably better at it than
I am. Many of the responders to this thread were discussing the prudent practice
of spring loading the throttle to the open position IN THE EVENT of a break.
In addition, several posters on the List have had these cables break. Your
assumption that they broke because they failed to perform an adequate inspection
is flawed at best.
>We are building an airplane to fly in and I believe that
>safety is paramount. The aformentioned problem was on
>a spam can and probably in all likelyhood maintained
>by a mechanic that was not paid well.....
And your substantiated proof is what???? You are obviously drawing a conclusion
based upon circumstances not contained in the NTSB report. At least, I couldn't
find them in there.
>...because he obviously did not pay attention to detail.
I would say that he obviously made an error. I don't know, and neither do you,
that he did not pay attention to detail. I know that I've made my share of
boneheaded mistakes. I always pay attention to detail, I just make mistakes
sometime.
>Guys just build the airplane to spec's and maintain those specs
Sure, I agree, but what does that have to do with mechanical failure? Building
and maintaining to specs will not prevent mechanical failures from occurring.
That's why we have redundant systems, checklists, etc. And that's why we practice
emergency procedures and maneuvers.
You are entitled to your opinions Glenn, as we all are. But I think this thread
has wandered just a little off course. I consider it prudent to back up your
throttle and mixture connections with a 5 cent spring so that in the unlikely
event of a failure, you have an opportunity to prevent a small failure (cable
broke) from turning into a larger failure (off airport landing). The subsequent
questions on how one controls speed with a broken throttle cable is a good one,
in my opinion.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (115 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | IO-360 Throttle and mixture Bracket |
Bob,
This is not RV-specific, but one approach. I owned a Citabria with an IO-320
and Bendix injector. The throttle cable (swivel-end style) was attached to a
bracket, with about a 6 inch arm, welded to the lower left engine mount
tube. There was probably 10-12 inches from the bracket to the servo arm. The
mixture was just a bowden cable attached to the lower right mount tube and
an adel clamp on the airbox. See if you can find a Super Decathalon and see
their mounting for an IO-360.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) wiring & systems
>I asked the same question last fall and I have come to the conclusion
> based upon the answers that I was the first person to ever put a Bendix
fuel
> servo on an O-360 A1A (180HP)!
> My servo was put on in 1968 can you beat that,
Not if you can tell me how you mounted the throttle/mixture brackets.
I know it has been done, but sometimes in the RV building process I wonder
to myself, if I am the first person to ever do some of these things. I have
yet
to find anyone who can explain to me how to mount the throttle/mixture
brackets for a Bendix Servo on an 0-360 A1A engine. I have talked to
Lycoming and they tell me that this is an airframe problem, I talked to
Van's and they told me get a carb and their bracket for the carb. I talked
to Bendix and they told me Huh!!?!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Faster than normal landing, (was Component structura |
l failure...)
--- glenn williams wrote:
>
> I find this thread disturbing. If you build the a/c to
> proper specs and then maintain the a/c in a reasonably
> timely manner i.e. performing 25, 50, 75, and 100 hour
> inspections also the annual you should not have a
> problem with sticking or broken throttle cables or for
> that matter mixture cables cracked weldments etc.
While I agree with the thrust of your comments, I would have to say
that anything made by man can, and eventually will, fail.
Personally, I've learned from this thread not to emulate techniques
used on rotary-engined aircraft nearly 100 years ago, as I probably
would have tried to do if my rented aircraft went to and stuck at full
throttle a week ago. Neither my basic instructor, or numerous BFR
check rides since, ever covered that eventuality.
I bristled a little today at comments made implying that if I'm not a
Super-CFI or career piston pilot I shouldn't be adding my two-cents
worth, lest someone else use them to their detriment - but many of
these threads usually start with a question or ignorant comment and
through the combined experience of the participants the truth and
best-practices generally shine through at the end.
Which is why we're here.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Panel
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Clark <Brian.Clark(at)ebay.sun.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Empanage for Sale!!! |
All,
I have an RV-6 empenage kit that was purchased a year ago last November. I am
selling it for $1000.00 o.b.o. Please submit any questions to Brian Clark
@ 415-606-4213. This kit has never been touched by tools yet. Looking for
California residents only (do not want to "re-package" this thing!). Make me an
offer!
Regards,
Brian
>From: "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: IO-360 Throttle and mixture Bracket
>Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 13:19:53 -0800
>
>
>>I asked the same question last fall and I have come to the conclusion
>> based upon the answers that I was the first person to ever put a Bendix
>fuel
>> servo on an O-360 A1A (180HP)!
>
>> My servo was put on in 1968 can you beat that,
>
>Not if you can tell me how you mounted the throttle/mixture brackets.
>
>I know it has been done, but sometimes in the RV building process I wonder
>to myself, if I am the first person to ever do some of these things. I have
>yet
>to find anyone who can explain to me how to mount the throttle/mixture
>brackets for a Bendix Servo on an 0-360 A1A engine. I have talked to
>Lycoming and they tell me that this is an airframe problem, I talked to
>Van's and they told me get a carb and their bracket for the carb. I talked
>to Bendix and they told me Huh!!?!
>If you know how, please don't keep it a secret.
>
>Bob Busick
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Dennis /Fran Flamini <flamini2(at)home.com>
>To:
>Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 3:39 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: IO-360 Throttle and mixture Bracket
>
>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net>
>> To:
>> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 3:20 PM
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: IO-360 Throttle and mixture Bracket
>>
>>
>> >
>> > I asked the same question last fall and I have come to the conclusion
>> based
>> > upon the answers that I was the first person to ever put a Bendix fuel
>> servo
>> > on an O-360 A1A (180HP)! I know, ...others have done it, but no one can
>> > tell me how. This is the frustrating part of building, when you know it
>> has
>> > been done but you can't get the right answers.
>> >
>> > I bought the Aviat brackets, and for the life of me I can not figure out
>> how
>> > to make them work. I think they are designed for the IO -360 (200HP).
>> The
>> > only possible way I could figure out how to mount them, would be to
>drill
>> a
>> > hole in the bottom of the sump and bolt it on.
>> >
>> > Of course, I didn't do that, I designed a bracket that holds both the
>> > mixture and throttle cable and had it made out of 1/8" stainless steel.
>> > Send a SASE and I will send you a paper copy of the template. Anyone
>who
>> > can put this on a Web page, I'll send you a copy.
>> >
>> > Bob Busick
>> >
>> > > Aviat makes brackets that fit both the throttle and mixture cables.
>If
>> > you
>> > > look in the archives you should be able to find part numbers. They
>are
>> > > inexpensive and work great.
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
Brian W. Clark
Site Engineering
Sun Microsystems, Inc.
7777 Gateway BLVD. Bldg. #10
Newark Ca 94560
Phone: 510.574.5976 or 35976
Nextel: 510.714.0641
Pager: 877.432.5126
e-mail: brian.clark(at)ebay.sun.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Metal spinners & Catto Props |
Craig Catto uses the BN-3 polished spinner (see ACS catalog)for Lycomings,
but he said that he spoke with one of Vans engineers who told him this would
not work on an RV because the spinner Vans sells is 13" at the base, and the
BN-3 is 12 1/8" . Pardon my novice stupidity, but I dont see how this would
not work just being 7/8" smaller in dia. It would seem that it would help to
get the bottom cowling on and off with a slightly smaller spinner. See
related threads posted today.
Does anyone have any enlightening knowlege and or specific reason why a
slightly smaller spinner wont work???
Are ya listenin SM?
Thanks in advance
Kevin Shannon in WA
-9a starting to finish
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump o/hauler? |
Hey guys where is a good place to send a fuel pump to get an overhaul? Just
found out my mechanic wont do it.
Kevin in WA
-9A O-320 catto prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Kitz" <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 295 shopping |
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 8:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 295 shopping
>
> Check out these guys. They have done well for me in the past... They
also
> have some good information on their site.
>
> http://www.seaerospace.com/index.htm
>
I bought my King 76A from these guys and they were $100 cheaper than anyone
else. People on the List actually wrote me and insisted I had purchased a
used unit.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Conners <jconners_98(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Want to buy and RV-3 or RV-4 |
Anyone having an RV-3 or RV-4 for sale please email me
a description of the plane (spec sheet), photos of
sideviews, cockpit and panel. Also total time engine,
and time since major overhaul, recent compression test
results and location of aircraft, and asking price.
Jer
====
Jerry L. Conners, PE
Civil Engineer
775-688-1253 (work)
775-688-1255 (work FAX)
775-847-0214 (home)
PO Box 509
Virginia City, Nevada 89440
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
| Subject: | Re: Faster than normal landing,(was Component structural |
failure...)
Frank and Dorothy wrote:
>
>
> Bob Moore wrote:
> > Answer a question for a student pilot ... how does one land an airplane at
full
> > throttle? How do you sucessfully scrub off the speed that RVs can build up
with
> > a stuck throttle?IIRC, most Lycomings can only run for a few minutes at
> full power.
> Frank.
I beg to differ with your statement that Lycs can "only run a few
minutes at full power". When I'm practicing my far off in the future
Vegas pylon turns, running my "low altitude fast route or just smoking
along, I can run max 2800 rpm for quite a long period of time without
any signs of excessive EGT/CHT/oil temp or pressure, etc. In fact, I
think I can hear my engine singing along with me on the ride, tho it is
in better tune.
Boyd
N600SS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Winters" <dtw_rv6(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron mounting brackets |
Sounds like the -8 is nothing like the -6. I don't trust anything in the
prints until I've fitted the parts together.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gary Zilik
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 10:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aileron mounting brackets
The only reason I can think of not to rivet them on until needed is that
unless the holes and location of the bracket are predrilled (by the factory)
then you really have no idea where the final location of the bracket should
be. It may ve close enough, or then again it might not. My rule of thumb
when
building my non prepunched 6A was to not drill or rivet anything until I
absolutly had to.
Gary Zilik
6A O-360/Sensenich
>
> Good morning from El Paso.
> We are building a 9A and we wondered the same thing. We went ahead and
> riveted them onto the ribs before we riveted the wing skeleton together.
> I was able to use my hand squeezer and sure did make life easier. After
> they were riveted to rib then we went ahead and riveted the rib to spars.
> Marcel in El Paso
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John Ciolino <jbc1(at)pop.snet.net>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 7:43 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Aileron mounting brackets
>
> >
> > Listers,
> >
> > I am working on the RV-8 wing. Van's plans call for riveting the
aileron
> > mounting brackets after the wing in is the jig and the skins are
> > fitted. Is there any reason not to rivet these brackets to the rear
spar
> > while the skeleton is on the table and easy to reach?
> >
> > John Ciolino
> > RV-8 80151
> > Long time lurker
> >
> >
>
> _
Shop online without a credit card
http://www.rocketcash.com
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron mounting brackets |
I mounted mine whilst the wing was in the jig.
I installed the brackets first, after the top wing skins, this way I
could have the ailerons hanging whilst testing out the pushrod assembly
and making bits and pieces.
Don't forget, Van's also tells you that you can rivet the bottom skins
on after it is out of the jig, just to be carefull moving the wing out
off the jig.
I thought riveting the bottom skins on in the jig would make more sence
with the wings in the jig, unmoved. This meant riveting the brackets on
inthe jig too
I believe Ole George did it in the jig on the video too.
I defenitely would do it again, all in the jig.
Gert
80721
p.s.
in the end it's a horse a piece, If you have a good table to put the
wing on it doesn't make that much difference.
You can always ask me more off of the list.
John Ciolino wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I am working on the RV-8 wing. Van's plans call for riveting the aileron
> mounting brackets after the wing in is the jig and the skins are
> fitted. Is there any reason not to rivet these brackets to the rear spar
> while the skeleton is on the table and easy to reach?
>
> John Ciolino
> RV-8 80151
> Long time lurker
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: changing rv6a to rv6 |
This is probably easier than going the other way. The motormount, gear
legs, tailwheel bracket along with the tailwheel assembly and chains are the
biggies. The brakelines would be re-ran through the firewall. Close up the
holes left in the bottom of the fuse where the mains where and ofcourse do
something about those steps.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Blum <bob(at)theblums.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 7:52 AM
Subject: RV-List: changing rv6a to rv6
>
> The engine needs a rebuild. How big a job is it to change wheel
> configuration to rv6? Since the motor is coming off, a change of motor
> mount would be relatitvly easy..... BUT, what else is involved?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Faster than normal landing, (was Component structural failure...) |
If you get stuck at full throttle, turn the mags off and on to maintaine the
power setting you need. Might be a little hard on the exhust stacks but it
will work.
The old Gnome rotory used this system to control power output.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wayne hennessey <azduke(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Want to buy and RV-3 or RV-4 |
I saw one RV-4 on the folowing site yesterday,
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/vaf.htm
under the classified on the left side of the page.
good luck
--- Jerry Conners wrote:
>
>
> Anyone having an RV-3 or RV-4 for sale please email
> me
> a description of the plane (spec sheet), photos of
> sideviews, cockpit and panel. Also total time
> engine,
> and time since major overhaul, recent compression
> test
> results and location of aircraft, and asking price.
>
> Jer
>
> ====
> Jerry L. Conners, PE
> Civil Engineer
> 775-688-1253 (work)
> 775-688-1255 (work FAX)
> 775-847-0214 (home)
> PO Box 509
> Virginia City, Nevada 89440
>
> Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail -
> only $35
> a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
====
J. WAYNE HENNESSEY
12212 NORTH PARADISE VILLEGE PKWY #207C
PHOENIX, ARIZONA 85032 602-992-8286
---------------------------------------------------
HAVE A NICE DAY
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Converting an 8 to an 8A was Unfinished RV-8 for sale |
Listers,
As Gert mentioned, the conversion isn't hard. Been there, done that. Essentially,
you need to drill out 14 3/16" rivets in the F-804A. These holes get opened up
to
1/4" for the bolts which will hold the landing gear weldments on. I ordered an
8A
wing kit but received an 8 center section. I spent 2 hours carefully marking and
drilling out the necessary rivets. My weldments fit perfectly. Be aware that your
rudder cable holes will need to be relocated for the 8A. See revision 7 of DWG
11
for details.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A fuselage
Boca Raton, Fl.
gert wrote:
>
> Gary,
>
> changing the 8 over to a 'nose dragger config, is relatively trivial and
> involves probably no more than drilling out some rivets in the F804
> assembly and getting the landing gear weldments and some related
> reinforcement bracketry with the f802,s
>
> Maybe give Van's a call, might be easier than you think....
>
> Gert
>
> Gary Rush wrote:
> >
> >
> > I have a partially completed RV-8 for sale.
> >
> > Wings are completed (includes the strobes)
> > Empennage is completed
> > Fuselage - drilled, primed and ready to be riveted
> > I have not ordered the finish kit.
> >
> > For sale for $9,950 firm.
> >
> > After having attempted to get my tail dragger sign off, I have realized that
I
> > am a much better nose dragger pilot and I do not want to tempt fate.
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Faster than normal landing, (was Component structural |
failure...)
When doing a "hot start" (flooded start) on my injected 0-360 it starts
just fine at full throttle.
Dave RV6, 0-360 cs, So Cal
Mike Thompson wrote:
>
> > I'm not convinced that a Lyc would restart with the throttle wide
> > open.
> > Anyone tried that? Or willing to try it?
> >
> > Frank.
>
> In discussions I've had with folks regarding aerobatics in normally
> aspirated RV's and negative G's, they mention that if you go negative
> long enough for the engine to quit for lack of fuel, then you just get
> G's back on it and the engine will "re-start", as in start running
> again, in which case I assume the prop is windmilling. Full throttle?
> Dunno.
>
> I quoted the "re-start" because I think that term is confusing this
> discussion.
>
> I also learned from the information to use mixture vice mags if I ever
> get in the situation that started this thread...
>
> Spring load the throttle full open and if the cable malfunctions, the
> mixture becomes the throttle.
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Panel
>
> Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
> a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: changing rv6a to rv6 |
The aft bulkheads have added parts for the tail wheel..you would have to
take the side skins off the rear of the airplane and put in that supporting
structure. Then you would have some cowl work to do to allow for the
closure of the nose gear hole, as well as the openings for the new gears..no
small job on a flying RV..especially if it is painted...ouch..don't even
want to think about that!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Blum" <bob(at)theblums.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 6:52 AM
Subject: RV-List: changing rv6a to rv6
>
> The engine needs a rebuild. How big a job is it to change wheel
> configuration to rv6? Since the motor is coming off, a change of motor
> mount would be relatitvly easy..... BUT, what else is involved?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron mounting brackets |
Gert: Your answer to the aileron bracket was an excellent procedure. I
have been down this avenue with two Rv's. The thing that is difficult is
the vertical positioning is critical to make the airfoil conform to the
wing. As you will notice from previous builders aileron and flap alignment
is easy to do in the jig. Also you notice the quickbuilt has all the wing
assembled but the outboard top skin. The Ortmdorf method works, I have had
to replace brackets that were not aligned properly, not fun. I think all
Rv-6 builders will tell you to be extra careful in the alignment as it will
bite you later when you install flaps and wing tips for a perfect alignment
of the wing. If you don't believe me look at every RV wing alignment at
the next fly inn. Sorry for the long post, but I feel very strong about
procedure. My two cents only.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB - Almost finished
> [Original Message]
> From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
> To:
> Date: 2/14/2001 6:58:02 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Aileron mounting brackets
>
>
> I mounted mine whilst the wing was in the jig.
>
> I installed the brackets first, after the top wing skins, this way I
> could have the ailerons hanging whilst testing out the pushrod assembly
> and making bits and pieces.
>
> Don't forget, Van's also tells you that you can rivet the bottom skins
> on after it is out of the jig, just to be carefull moving the wing out
> off the jig.
>
> I thought riveting the bottom skins on in the jig would make more sence
> with the wings in the jig, unmoved. This meant riveting the brackets on
> inthe jig too
>
> I believe Ole George did it in the jig on the video too.
>
> I defenitely would do it again, all in the jig.
>
> Gert
> 80721
>
> p.s.
> in the end it's a horse a piece, If you have a good table to put the
> wing on it doesn't make that much difference.
>
> You can always ask me more off of the list.
>
>
> John Ciolino wrote:
> >
> >
> > Listers,
> >
> > I am working on the RV-8 wing. Van's plans call for riveting the
aileron
> > mounting brackets after the wing in is the jig and the skins are
> > fitted. Is there any reason not to rivet these brackets to the rear
spar
> > while the skeleton is on the table and easy to reach?
> >
> > John Ciolino
> > RV-8 80151
> > Long time lurker
> >
>
> --
>
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
>
>
>
>
--- Harvey Sigmon
--- flyhars(at)earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Faster than normal landing, (was Component structura |
l failure...)
glenn williams wrote:
>
> To the other guys who do not
> have the repairmans certificate I would suggest
> getting an A&P who is familiar with the RV series a/c.
> Do not use anyone who is not for this reason. An A&P
> who is "type specific" will know the intricacies of
> the a/c and know what to look for while performing
> your annual. Sure you may get an A&P who is thourough
> but in the back of your mind do you want a job done by
> a guy who is not really familiar with your a/c? that
> is for you to decide. I just hate to see needless
> accidents due to negligence or pure stupidity.
> Regards
> Glenn Williams
>
Glenn
I would add to this statement that those that do not
have their repairman's certificate should still get
familiar with their RVs. Even without the repairman
certificate they can do through inspections and any
maintenance that is needed to maintain their RV in safe
flying condition. The only thing an A&P is needed for
is to sign off the annual condition inspection.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis /Fran Flamini" <flamini2(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | IO-360 servo hookup |
Greg Young, see the pic below for 32 yr old hook up of servo on IO-360,
no problems so far, Dennis RV-10 Chicago
ftp://ftp.matronics.com/pub/Public/flamini(at)home.com/N4JB-Servo.jpg
Dennis and Fran
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Conners <jconners_98(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Want to buy and RV-3 or RV-4 |
Thank you
====
Jerry L. Conners, PE
Civil Engineer
775-688-1253 (work)
775-688-1255 (work FAX)
775-847-0214 (home)
PO Box 509
Virginia City, Nevada 89440
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pop Rivet Question |
One of the best chemicals to use for handy cleaning is aerosol cans of brake
parts cleaner. There are 2 varieties, chlorinated and non chlorinated. The
chlorinated versions work much better. Expect to pay $2-3 per can. This stuff is
designed to absorb brake fluid and petroleum products, evaporate and leave no
residue. You can find it at any auto parts store.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A fuselage
Boca Raton, Fl.
>
> If you have access to "tryke" or trichlorethylene, you can get rid of the
> oils. This is nasty stuff, and EPA controlled, so you won't be able to get
> it at Menard's
>
> Well, I hate to start a big debate, but thats what this list is for....
>
> I don't see how you can ever clean the inside of the tube well enough to get
> the primer to stick. The oil is there from the drawing process, and it is a
> good sticky oil. Without a good solvent bath, and a 6 foot long bottle
> brush, and a lot of work, you will never get the inside really clean.
> Intead, I fogged the inside of the tube with Boelube. Why fight it?
>
>
> The MD-42 BS rivet is an older number. Use the MSP 42's there. You don't
> need to alodine the inside of that pushrod...just clean the inside with a
> cleaner (I like Sher-Will Klean from Sherwin Williams). Then put tape on
> one end and fog the inside with primer. Turn it over and let it run to both
> ends and you are done. Be sure you drill those holes with the end
> installed, and absolutely use a drill press with a v block jig.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Finish Kit (Still)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Larygagnon(at)AOL.COM>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 9:18 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Pop Rivet Question
>
> >
> > Perhaps someone on the list can offer some pop rivet advice. Assembling
> the
> > pushrods to the rod end bearing calls for a MD 42 BS pop rivet. I have
> MSP
> > 42 and LP4-3 rivets in my kit. Both are steel shank with domed heads but
> the
> > body on the LP4-3 is grooved lengthwise to allow it to spread more (monel
> > style?). Which would be stronger in this application? Also, should I do
> > more then just alodine the inside of the pushrods? Thanks.
> >
> > Larry Gagnon
> > Kitfox N102LG
> > RV6 Fuselage N6LG (reserved)
> >
> >
>
> Shop online without a credit card
> http://www.rocketcash.com
> RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Great cutomer service |
Dear fellow RV-List'ers:
I had been trying to locate a supplier for some small latches made by
Hartwell. They are plastic, you push on a plunger, that expands a grommet,
and that holds your panel closed. They are small, lightweight, and have
great holding power. The only problem was I couldn't find them anywhere. I
contacted Aircraft Spruce and good as their customer service is, they really
didn't want to bother with such a small order.
I then contacted Wicks and asked for help. Deeann Vogel of Wicks has worked
for two months trying to find a suitable supplier. She took great pains to
make sure I had the correct part numbers and was going to get exactly the
latches I wanted. You don't find that kind of customer support too often.
When I do see examples of stellar customer support I like to spread the
word. From now on, I'm going to try to do as much of my purchasing as I can
from Wicks.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Adminstrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
"Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant,
for those who foolishly think that somehow they
can achieve success without paying the price."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Faster than normal landing, (was Component structura |
l failure...)
Agreed, good response
Glenn
--- Jerry Springer wrote:
>
>
> glenn williams wrote:
> >
> > To the other guys who do not
> > have the repairmans certificate I would suggest
> > getting an A&P who is familiar with the RV series
> a/c.
> > Do not use anyone who is not for this reason. An
> A&P
> > who is "type specific" will know the intricacies
> of
> > the a/c and know what to look for while performing
> > your annual. Sure you may get an A&P who is
> thourough
> > but in the back of your mind do you want a job
> done by
> > a guy who is not really familiar with your a/c?
> that
> > is for you to decide. I just hate to see needless
> > accidents due to negligence or pure stupidity.
> > Regards
> > Glenn Williams
> >
> Glenn
> I would add to this statement that those that do not
>
> have their repairman's certificate should still get
> familiar with their RVs. Even without the repairman
> certificate they can do through inspections and any
> maintenance that is needed to maintain their RV in
> safe
> flying condition. The only thing an A&P is needed
> for
> is to sign off the annual condition inspection.
>
> Jerry
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
Where's the best palce to get a Lycoming overhaul manual? Direct from
Lycoming?
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Faster than normal landing, (was Component structura |
Ok, I've had enough.
We all know adding the spring won't hurt. My thought, just do it. If the
cable breaks you will notice it on pattern entry when pulling back the
throttle, NOT just before the flare. I bought my RV so I don't know how it
was built, if the spring is on the throttle, but I'm going to look.
The backfire thing sounds a bit like a old wives tale but I'm not about to
tempt fate. Sooo . . . .
I went out flying this morning. Up to 4000 ft. (<2 minutes) Firewalled my
throttle and flew a normal simulated pattern with the mixture. PIECE OF
CAKE. CHT and EGT actually went down. Which makes sense. Bring the
mixture back and the engine slows down, a little rough, but not bad. I even
pulled to idle cut off and back in and it ran perfectly.
Bottom line: If I had this spring on my plane and the cable broke It would
not eve cause me to break a sweat. Not because I'm a great pilot, but
because I've tried it at altitude and it is very very benign.
So before hypothesizing anymore, go fly it.
Don Mei
RV-4 0-320 (dual throttle ;-))
Only 220 hrs, but 150 hrs in RV-4 in 2000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Completed RV-4 Tail For Sale |
I am posting this for a friend... Please contact him directly...
Completed RV-4 tail for sale. Excellent craftsmanship, as this is the third
tail kit he has built. He currently has a flying RV-4, and has also built
an RV-3 tail... Will sell for $800. Located in Colorado Springs, CO.
Contact me via e-mail: loydremus(at)msn.com, phone number and pictures
available on request...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | IO-360 servo hookup |
Dennis,
Thanks but you're directing it to the wrong guy. My post was responding to
Bob Busick who was looking for how to connect to a updraft servo mounting on
an O-360 A1A. I assume he saw your earlier posts, as I did, and it's not the
configuration he was after. The IO-320 and parallel-valve IO-360 (B model)
are both updraft mountings like the 0-360-A1A.
Regards,
Greg Young (Houston - DWH)
RV-6 N6GY systems & wiring
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dennis /Fran
Flamini
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 3:21 AM
Subject: RV-List: IO-360 servo hookup
Greg Young, see the pic below for 32 yr old hook up of servo on IO-360,
no problems so far, Dennis RV-10 Chicago
ftp://ftp.matronics.com/pub/Public/flamini(at)home.com/N4JB-Servo.jpg
Dennis and Fran
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
There are third generation copies floating around out there but if you
want good detailed, legible photos then buy from Lycomong.
Bruce
Glasair III
Greg Tanner wrote:
>
> Where's the best palce to get a Lycoming overhaul manual? Direct from
> Lycoming?
>
> Greg Tanner
> RV-9A Empennage
> SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
Thanks to Bill Von Dane and his web site I was avle to do some playing
around with paint schemes. Here's what I have come up with for my 9A.
http://www.kitbuiltplane.com/hangar/RV9ABLDR.html
This is an example of what an RV builder does when it's too cold in the
shop.
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Faster than normal landing, (was Component structura |
I've always admired good old, down-to-earth, gutsy empiricism.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Donald Mei wrote:
>
> Ok, I've had enough.
> We all know adding the spring won't hurt. My thought, just do it. If the
> cable breaks you will notice it on pattern entry when pulling back the
> throttle, NOT just before the flare. I bought my RV so I don't know how it
> was built, if the spring is on the throttle, but I'm going to look.
>
> The backfire thing sounds a bit like a old wives tale but I'm not about to
> tempt fate. Sooo . . . .
>
> I went out flying this morning. Up to 4000 ft. (<2 minutes) Firewalled my
> throttle and flew a normal simulated pattern with the mixture. PIECE OF
> CAKE. CHT and EGT actually went down. Which makes sense. Bring the
> mixture back and the engine slows down, a little rough, but not bad. I even
> pulled to idle cut off and back in and it ran perfectly.
>
> Bottom line: If I had this spring on my plane and the cable broke It would
> not eve cause me to break a sweat. Not because I'm a great pilot, but
> because I've tried it at altitude and it is very very benign.
>
> So before hypothesizing anymore, go fly it.
>
> Don Mei
> RV-4 0-320 (dual throttle ;-))
> Only 220 hrs, but 150 hrs in RV-4 in 2000
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Great cutomer service |
Take a look at Hartwell's website:
http://www.hartwellcorp.com/2piece.asp
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Adminstrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
"Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant,
for those who foolishly think that somehow they
can achieve success without paying the price."
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Thompson [mailto:grobdriver(at)yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 8:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Great cutomer service
--- "Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
>
> Dear fellow RV-List'ers:
>
> I had been trying to locate a supplier for some small latches made by
> Hartwell. They are plastic, you push on a plunger, that expands a
> grommet,
> and that holds your panel closed. They are small, lightweight, and
> have great holding power.
Are there any pictures of one of these things. I might have some
applications for it.
- Mike
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VM-1000 puzzle pieces |
Bruce,
In my RV-8A with an IO-360 I have the flow meter mounted almost exactly 4
inches downstream from the servo with a 90 degree elbow coming out of it
then the line going directly up to the flow divider. It is not the optimum
5 inches that they suggest but it works prefectly. After 25 hours of flying
every fillup has been within 1/10 of a gallon of what the VM1000 says has
been burned. I made a small strap of aluminum bolted to the mounting hole in
the flowmeter and the other end to the engine case oil sump bolts to give a
little support to the small rigid 4 inch line between the flowmeter and the
servo.
Hope this helps.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
25!! hours now
>From: Boalty(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: VM-1000 puzzle pieces
>Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 20:09:35 EST
>
>
>To any and all VM-1000 users:
>Lookin' for tips on fuel pressure transducer placement. Anybody using the
>port on the lfow meter and plumbing direct?.
>Bruce Hukari RV-4
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Yes, Direct form Lycoming. Call their Customer Service and they get you
exactly what you want.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "Rv-List"
>Subject: RV-List: OH manual
>Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 08:31:25 -0800
>
>
>Where's the best palce to get a Lycoming overhaul manual? Direct from
>Lycoming?
>
>Greg Tanner
>RV-9A Empennage
>SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Faster than normal landing, (was Component structura |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
02/15/2001 01:32:55 PM
Hey Great post Don, thanks for cutting through the BS for us. I'm assuming
you have a fixed pitch prop. Were you able to get the engine to come all
the way back to your normal approach rpm using the mixture? If not how far
down did you get the engine to go?
Thanks in advance
Eric
"Donald Mei" (at)matronics.com on 02/15/2001 11:46:17 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Faster than normal landing, (was Component structura
Ok, I've had enough.
We all know adding the spring won't hurt. My thought, just do it. If the
cable breaks you will notice it on pattern entry when pulling back the
throttle, NOT just before the flare. I bought my RV so I don't know how it
was built, if the spring is on the throttle, but I'm going to look.
The backfire thing sounds a bit like a old wives tale but I'm not about to
tempt fate. Sooo . . . .
I went out flying this morning. Up to 4000 ft. (<2 minutes) Firewalled
my
throttle and flew a normal simulated pattern with the mixture. PIECE OF
CAKE. CHT and EGT actually went down. Which makes sense. Bring the
mixture back and the engine slows down, a little rough, but not bad. I
even
pulled to idle cut off and back in and it ran perfectly.
Bottom line: If I had this spring on my plane and the cable broke It would
not eve cause me to break a sweat. Not because I'm a great pilot, but
because I've tried it at altitude and it is very very benign.
So before hypothesizing anymore, go fly it.
Don Mei
RV-4 0-320 (dual throttle ;-))
Only 220 hrs, but 150 hrs in RV-4 in 2000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | deciding on paint job designs |
I saw a trick in a car magazine, recently. Get the paint stick pens
from a company like Colorite Distributing 800.358.1882. They are about
$10 each. Buy the color that you would like to try by picking out a
motorycycle, for instance 1997 Honda CBR600f3 Smokin Joe, violet and
yellow. Use the pens to paint your model. If you are like me, you have
no talent for making a decision from a bunch of colors, but I do know
what I like when I see it.
Barry Pote RV9a Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: deciding on paint job designs |
--- barry pote wrote:
>
> I saw a trick in a car magazine, recently. Get the paint stick pens
> from a company like Colorite Distributing 800.358.1882. They are
> about
> $10 each. Buy the color that you would like to try by picking out a
> motorycycle, for instance 1997 Honda CBR600f3 Smokin Joe, violet and
> yellow. Use the pens to paint your model. If you are like me, you
> have
> no talent for making a decision from a bunch of colors, but I do know
> what I like when I see it.
It _is_ a great idea.
Only problem is that there are no injection-molded models of the RV
series available. I've checked the catalogs and talked to the model
shop owners.
If we were building 172's or a Swift, now, that's a different story.
Had this idea two years ago, but...
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Panel
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Faster than normal landing, (was Component structura |
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
02/15/2001 02:07:18 PM
Ok already, I'm sold.
I have a factory fresh O-360 A1A. Where is the best place to pick up a
throttle spring return kit? I obviously need more than a spring or I would
just hike down to the hardware store and pick one up. There is no obvious
place to just mount a hunk of aluminum to attach the spring to so what's
the technique??? Anyone who has done this have any pictures of his
installation? Suggestions?
I wana be safe but I need some help here :-)
Thanks,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( sanding and more sanding )
O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KR2LARRY(at)AOL.COM |
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 12:23:44 -0800
From: Bob Atkins <bob(at)liquidcooledairpower.com>
Subject: Re: HOW MUCH
KR2LARRY(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> ALL sounds good but how much money.
Thank you for your inquiry.
Our Cool Jugs conversion kit is just that - a kit that converts
virtually any wide or narrow deck O-360 or O-540 series Lycoming engine
to liquid cooling. This includes carbureted, fuel injected,
turbocharged and turbo-normalized engines. Running liquid cooled the
cylinder head temps are maintained at a steady 190 deg F (+/- 5 deg F).
Cylinder to cylinder temp variance is essentially eliminated as all
cylinder temps run within 2 deg F of each other. Shock cooling and
heating are *completely* eliminated.
Cool Jugs is a complete, bolt-on kit that will allow a conventional air
cooled O-360 or O-540 parallel valve Lycoming engine to be converted to
liquid cooling. The result is a fully liquid cooled aircraft piston
engine. An engine that operates at a stable 190 degF without any* need
for airflow over or through the engine compartment.
The Cool Jugs liquid cooled conversion requires absolutely no internal
engine modifications! In fact no existing reciprocating/moving
components are changed in any manner. The conversion creates only one
additional moving part - the coolant pump, which is grear driven via a
standard accessory pad.
Normally aspirated engines can be run at peak lean EGT or even at 50
deg F lean of peak EGT at *all* power settings and RPMs providing you
with substantial fuel savings and *more* power. You also have the
option of using the higher compression 9.0:1 pistons for even greater
power. The stock O-360 engines typically run 8.5:1 pistons. Our dyno
testing shows that an O-360 with 9.0:1 pistons puts out 195HP at 28"Hg
manifold pressure at peak EGT resulting in a fuel burn of 11.7gph
without even a hint of detonation. Keep in mind this is at sea level
pressure. The best an air-cooled O-360 can do is around 12.5gph at peak
EGT, 28"Hg manifold pressure and that's with occasional detonation
occuring.
In fact as part of our dyno testing we ran a detonation survey on our
liquid cooled O-360 in an attempt to discover if and under what
conditions detonation might occur. What we found was that we could run
the engine at wide open throttle (28"HG manifold pressure) at peak EGT
and even at 50 degF lean of peak EGT and load the engine down to 1600
rpm (as much load as the dyno could apply) and left it there for as
long as 20 minutes without so much as a hint of detonation. That's
practically the equivalent of running wide open throttle with a
feathered propeller.
The reason you get more power when running at peak lean EGT is because
you aren't cooling the combustion mixture with excess fuel so you get
more thermal energy and in turn more power. You absolutely don't have
to be concerned about 'burning up' our liquid cooled engine running at
peak EGT or even 50 deg F lean of peak EGT - even at sea level manifold
pressure. In fact running at peak EGT at all times will actually
improve the life expectancy of the engine since it prevents the buildup
of lead deposits.
For reference a typical air-cooled O-360 running at wide open throttle
(28"Hg) at full rich will consume over 18gph. Even at altitudes above
3000' when leaning is possible, an air-cooled O-360 will consume more
fuel because it is (a) running much hotter, around 380-400 degF and (b)
due to uneven cylinder temps, you can only lean until the hottest
cylinder starts to misfire.
You should consider that installing a liquid cooled engine in any
airframe will require re-design of the cowling since our engine does
not require any* airflow through the engine compartment. You should
also consider where you might be able to locate the radiator. You will
need approx. 5000 CFM of cooling air for the radiator. A well designed
low drag radiator installation should incorporate a relatively small
air intake and a ducted air plenum to the radiator that provides for at
least a 3-4 times expansion of the air intake.
*Note: A small volume of 'breather' air is recommended for cooling the
alternator and generally keeping the engine compartment ventillated
against any buildup of fumes. You may also need separate cooling air
for the magnetos and possibly the fuel pump.
The radiator for the O-360 engine is fairly small (14" h x6" w x6" d)
and could be mounted in the engine compartment or remotely depending on
the airframe. We can have a custom radiator built to meet your needs.
A properly designed installation would be to have no more than a 24 sq"
intake and a ducted plenum that gradually expands to meet the radiator
face which is actually 12"x6" (72 sq"). The expansion rate should be
limited to 15 deg in order to prevent undesirable turbulence from
developing within the plenum. This may in some cases result in an
expansion plenum that is too long for a given airframe installation to
be practical. In such cases internal vanes can be incorporated in the
plenum in order to spearate and maintain a 15 deg expansion path.
For more information take a look at the following site:
http://www.inforamp.net/~raac/CoolingSystems/CoolingSystemsIndex.HTML
Weight
------
A typical conversion will add an additional 30-35 lbs to an engine
installation. This weight includes all of the components, radiator,
hoses and coolant. The coolant is the largest percentage of additional
weight since water (glycol/water mix) weighs 8lbs/gal and the typical
system requires 2 to 2.5 gallons of coolant. A significant portion (12
lbs) of this weight can be offset by installing a lightweight starter.
Given the potential performance improvements both in terms of drag
reduction and engine life expectancy we feel confident that the
additional weight of a liquid cooled engine will be more than offset by
its benefits.
While we can't address the potential of additional weight savings in
every airframe we can tell you that in converting a Piper PA28-180
to liquid cooling we expect to offset a significant portion of the
additional weight with a *much* lighter cowling. The redesigned cowling
will be built from carbon fiber and we anticipate that it will be
approx. 10-12lbs lighter than the original cowling. This savings along
with the removal of the aircooled baffling and changing the induction
air box will result in an additional 7-8 lbs of weight savings.
Overall, with the lightweight starter (12lbs), cowling (10lbs),
air-cooled baffling (3lbs) and induction air box changes (5lbs) we have
managed to achieve 30lbs of weight savings - virtually offsetting all
of the weight gain of the liquid cooled O-360.
Certification
-------------
Currently the Cool Jugs liquid cooled conversion kits are not FAA
certified and are for experimental use only. Liquid Cooled Air Power
is persuing FAA certification and are hoping to achieve certification
by late 2001.
Pricing
-------
Our Cool Jugs conversions are available for both the O-360 series and
O-540 series engines.
The Cool Jugs conversion kit includes:
. New nitrided cylinders/valve train
All valve train components are New FAA-PMA
approved parts:
o Intake and Exhaust valves
o Valve seats
o Valve Springs
o Rocker Arm bushings
o Top end gasket set
o Rocker box covers
. Coolant manifold & Coolant pump
. Thermostat housing & thermostat
. Engine hoses
o Steel braided Aeroquip TSO C53a 1000psi test hose
o AN fittings
. Custom designed Coolant system monitoring gauge
and transducers.
o Coolant Temperature
o Coolant pump output pressure
o Low Coolant warning
We offer a 7 year/3000 hour pro-rata, limited warranty on the major
components which include the liquid cooled cylinders, valve train
(limited to the intake & exhaust valves, valve seats and springs) and
the coolant pump.
We may extend the calendar limit of our warranty as our field
experience grows.
Our conversion kit does not include a radiator or engine to radiator
hoses since each airframe's installation requirements are unique.
The O-360 kit is priced at $12,995 and the O-540 kit is priced at
$18.995
We will have kits ready to ship in Jan '01. We offer field support to
assist with installation and on going support.
If you email me your address we will send out a more complete brochure
on the conversion kit.
Thank you for your interest. Please don't hesitate to contact me if you
have any additional questions.
Sincerely,
Bob Atkins
Liquid Cooled Air Power, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Great cutomer service |
Sounds like the rear bulkhead fasteners in a 1976 SkyHawk that were always
breaking.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 9:23 AM
Subject: RV-List: Great cutomer service
>
> Dear fellow RV-List'ers:
>
> I had been trying to locate a supplier for some small latches made by
> Hartwell. They are plastic, you push on a plunger, that expands a
grommet,
> and that holds your panel closed. They are small, lightweight, and have
> great holding power. The only problem was I couldn't find them anywhere.
I
> contacted Aircraft Spruce and good as their customer service is, they
really
> didn't want to bother with such a small order.
>
> I then contacted Wicks and asked for help. Deeann Vogel of Wicks has
worked
> for two months trying to find a suitable supplier. She took great pains
to
> make sure I had the correct part numbers and was going to get exactly the
> latches I wanted. You don't find that kind of customer support too often.
> When I do see examples of stellar customer support I like to spread the
> word. From now on, I'm going to try to do as much of my purchasing as I
can
> from Wicks.
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Adminstrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
> "Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant,
> for those who foolishly think that somehow they
> can achieve success without paying the price."
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rpflanze(at)iquest.net |
| Subject: | Re: Faster than normal landing, (was Component structura |
Jim,
I drilled a small hole in the large washer that is used as a retainer on the
outside of the rod end bearing where it is bolted to the throttle arm. I then
went down to my local Ace Hardware and bought a small selection of lightweight
springs of various lengths. I then bent a small tab and mounted it underneath
the forward right nut that holds the carburator to the intake stud. It took
just a little experimentation to get a spring that would stretch easily through
the full swing of the throttle arm without applying too much tension. I also
played a little with different tab lengths and dimensions. Overall, it probably
didn't take me more than a half hour or so.
The spring on the mixture cable was a little more difficult because of the mixture
arm's location and swing pattern. However, a little experimentation there and
I was able to attach it to the washer (like the throttle) and to the mixture/throttle
cable bracket.
Cheap insurance and not hard to do.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (115 hours)
>
>Ok already, I'm sold.
>
>I have a factory fresh O-360 A1A. Where is the best place to pick up a
>throttle spring return kit? I obviously need more than a spring or I would
>just hike down to the hardware store and pick one up. There is no obvious
>place to just mount a hunk of aluminum to attach the spring to so what's
>the technique??? Anyone who has done this have any pictures of his
>installation? Suggestions?
>
>I wana be safe but I need some help here :-)
>
>Thanks,
>
>- Jim Andrews
>RV-8A ( sanding and more sanding )
>O-360 A1A Sensenich 85
>N89JA reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I'm just setting up the brackets to hold the wing front spar. Does anyone
have a suggestion as to the height the spar should be at so that it's
comfortable working on both the top and bottom?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: Tail done, starting on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
My main spar was about shoulder height when in the jig. Worked good for me.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Adminstrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
"Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant,
for those who foolishly think that somehow they
can achieve success without paying the price."
-----Original Message-----
From: Albert Gardner [mailto:albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 2:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-9A Wing Jig
I'm just setting up the brackets to hold the wing front spar. Does anyone
have a suggestion as to the height the spar should be at so that it's
comfortable working on both the top and bottom?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: Tail done, starting on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Faster than normal landing, (was Component structural failure...) |
In a message dated 2/13/01 11:04:45 PM Pacific Standard Time, WP2J(at)swbell.net
writes:
>
> Answer a question for a student pilot ... how does one land an airplane at
> full
> throttle? How do you sucessfully scrub off the speed that RVs can build up
> with
> a stuck throttle? The next time I meet up with my instructor I will ask him
> but
> I thought I'd ask here too.
>
> Bob Moore
> RV-6 empennage
> Austin, Texas
>
>
>
Pull the mixture to idle cut off, Been there, done that.
Fred LaForge RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Wing Jig |
I appreciate the responses on the height of the wing jig. There is a lot of
information in the archievs also about building the wing as well. In
addition, Barry Pote in NJ gave me some helpful advice concerning landing
lights, wire conduit, AOA indicators and heated pitot tubes. I guess it's
time to logoff and go back to building.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: Tail done, starting on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tchoug <tchoug(at)micron.com> |
Albert,
I set up my brackets on my wing jig to be just about at shoulder level. This
seems to allow a reasonable reach to the leading edge and puts the trailing
edge about 28" above the floor. This seems to provide a good height range
from which to work.
You can see photo's of my wing jig on my RV-9A web site at
http://www.toddhoug.com.
Good luck,
Todd Houg
St. Francis, MN
Fitting the tanks skins
-----Original Message-----
From: Albert Gardner [mailto:albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 4:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-9A Wing Jig
I'm just setting up the brackets to hold the wing front spar. Does anyone
have a suggestion as to the height the spar should be at so that it's
comfortable working on both the top and bottom?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: Tail done, starting on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcel Bourgon" <mbourgon(at)elp.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Wing Jig |
Greetings from El Paso
We are now working on our wings and have reset our wing jig up so that the
spar sits about 5'9" above the floor.
If you set it too low it is a back breaker.
Good luck
Marcel Bourgon
----- Original Message -----
From: Albert Gardner <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 3:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-9A Wing Jig
>
> I'm just setting up the brackets to hold the wing front spar. Does anyone
> have a suggestion as to the height the spar should be at so that it's
> comfortable working on both the top and bottom?
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
> RV-9A: Tail done, starting on wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
I was under the understanding that with the 9, it wasn't absolutely
necessary to have a jig. Can anybody confirm this?
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Marcel Bourgon
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 4:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-9A Wing Jig
Greetings from El Paso
We are now working on our wings and have reset our wing jig up so that the
spar sits about 5'9" above the floor.
If you set it too low it is a back breaker.
Good luck
Marcel Bourgon
----- Original Message -----
From: Albert Gardner <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 3:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-9A Wing Jig
>
> I'm just setting up the brackets to hold the wing front spar. Does anyone
> have a suggestion as to the height the spar should be at so that it's
> comfortable working on both the top and bottom?
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
> RV-9A: Tail done, starting on wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
I purchased mine from the Builders Bookstore.
Marty in Brentwood TN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Gray" <brucegray(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 11:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: OH manual
>
> There are third generation copies floating around out there but if you
> want good detailed, legible photos then buy from Lycomong.
>
> Bruce
> Glasair III
>
> Greg Tanner wrote:
>
> >
> > Where's the best palce to get a Lycoming overhaul manual? Direct from
> > Lycoming?
> >
> > Greg Tanner
> > RV-9A Empennage
> > SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)AOL.COM |
Have a 0320 carb with new one piece venturi
for sale. $400 takes it.
Stewart RV4 Colo.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Wing Jig |
Well, this the bare minimum to qualify as a jig. What you need is a way to
support the wing's front spar and rib structure while you put the skins and
other stuff on. Van's recommends 2 posts about 133" apart with a angle
brace about shoulder height on each post to support the spar and keep it
level. That's all you need but many builders have been more elaborate,
sometimes building both wings at once and some even made the jig or frame on
caster so they can roll it out of the way. Not the kind of jigs other RV
models require!
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: Tail done, starting on wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com>
> I was under the understanding that with the 9, it wasn't absolutely
> necessary to have a jig. Can anybody confirm this?
> Greg Tanner
> RV-9A Empennage
> SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
Greg and others:
>> I was under the understanding that with the 9, it wasn't absolutely
necessary to have a jig. Can anybody confirm this? <<
That's right. You don't need a jig in the sense of a kit that is not
predrilled. You just need something to hold up the wing while you work on
it - doesn't have to be trued. At a couple of points (like mounting the
tank) it has to close to true - about 1/4" is okay. The instructions tell
you how and when to do it. The jig in the empenage documentation shows two
uprights 133" apart. That is the jig they are talking about. Just install
a couple of brackets to hold the spar. Pretty simple.
Ernest Kells
RV-9A - Building Wings, Planning: O-235 Wood Prop
Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Great cutomer service |
In a message dated 2/15/01 7:26:15 AM Pacific Standard Time,
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com writes:
<< She took great pains to make sure I had the correct part numbers and was
going to get exactly the latches I wanted. You don't find that kind of
customer support too often. >>
O.K. Scott, time to drop the other shoe(s). First, did she find them for
you, and second, what is the part number? TIA.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fuselage Skin Looseness |
Hi All,
I'm helping a friend drill the fuselage aft side skins on an RV-6. Last
week we drilled (backdrilled thru the bulkheads) the left side skin. We
didn't notice at the time but the panel just behind the baggage bulkhead is
loose, meaning you can push it in with your hand to oil-can it. On the
right side we stopped drilling after the j-stringer next to the longeron was
drilled 'cause it also had loose skin in the same place.
He had his straps in between the bulkheads whereas when I built mine, i put
the straps next to the bulkheads. Does the strap location make a difference
or is this skin just formed this way? We didn't have time to shift the
straps around tonight to find out so I thought I'd ask the List.
TIA
Rick Caldwell
-6 Melbourne, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Wing rib rivet distance-pre punched 6 |
When drilling the inboard bottom wing skin, the last three or four rivets
(aft) on a few ribs are very very close to the bend of the rib flange. Yeah I
thought I could move these as I riveted toward them but it did not work out
like I expected. These are the two-three ribs outboard of the walkway, but on
the bottom. I may have to use a few cherry maxs due to the fact that I may
have difficulty in bucking. Question: Do you guys think I should leave as is,
or add another rivet or two between current rivet holes-in the proper rib
placement of course? The row of aft skin holes that attach to the rear spar
align nearly perfect. Structurally am I fine without adding extra rivets?
Thanks, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | prop extension for sale |
I have a four inch extension for sale. New, black
anodized, six inch faces, 3/8 inch bolt size, for wooden props. Cost
$240.00, will sell for $150.00 or best offer.
thanks--------mike rv-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Streit <wooody98(at)bellsouth.net> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Streit <wooody98(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | RV Paint schemes |
There is a internet site that will be useful for those who are trying to
work up a paint scheme for their RV.
go to www.aircraftpaintschemes.com and have a look around. They say
they have around 1400 different paint schemes to choose from...
Jim Streit
RV-9A
90073
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Graham <beeb(at)teleport.com> |
There I was at 10,000 feet.
Once upon a time I was cruising along in my RV-4 when all of a sudden I was
set upon by really rough air. Not wanting to crack the canopy with my
noggin, I abruptly reduced my power setting. To my dismay I was holding
the power control in my left hand. It must have failed somewhere between
the black knob and the the carburetor. To my good fortune I had been a
subscriber to the "RV List Digest" and only the week before had installed a
"power on spring" to my throttle arm. However, because I sometimes think
"outside the box", I had installed the spring (with a length of 1/16th inch
stainless aircraft cable) so that the spring was fully collapsed with only
partial power (16 inches MP).
After I broke out of the rough air I joined up with a large flight of
C-150's that were heading my way. They made me fly lead because I didn't
have a formation endorsement (not to mention that I was speed control
chalanged). We had a great time flying along for what seemed like hours. I
wish I could have seen all the things that they were pointing out on the
ground.
I made an almost normal landing (one mag off on long final). I pulled my
mixture in the round out. Darn if I didn't have to land with a Red knob in
my left hand.
Gary, On the ground in the N.W.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott VanArtsdalen" <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Great cutomer service |
Yes she did. That was the whole point of my post! I'm sorry if I didn't
make that clear. I can't remember the exact part number but I can look that
up when I get back to work. Another lister just wrote and told me that you
can buy them at Lowe's. He said there are some drawers in their hardware
section that have all kinds of weird things in them. He indicated that the
fastener I described was one of those weird little things. I'm also going
to check my local Lowe's here in Modesto.
-----Original Message-----
From: HCRV6(at)AOL.COM [mailto:HCRV6(at)AOL.COM]
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 5:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Great cutomer service
In a message dated 2/15/01 7:26:15 AM Pacific Standard Time,
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com writes:
<< She took great pains to make sure I had the correct part numbers and
was
going to get exactly the latches I wanted. You don't find that kind of
customer support too often. >>
O.K. Scott, time to drop the other shoe(s). First, did she find them
for
you, and second, what is the part number? TIA.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Ervin <bjervin(at)home.com> |
Hi All
I just accepted a position in Grand Island NE. (Sure glad I haven't
started that Fuselage yet)
Any RVers in that area?
Bill
RV-6
Spokane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Wing Jig |
In a message dated 2/15/01 3:31:55 PM, albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
>I'm just setting up the brackets to hold the wing front spar. Does anyone
>have a suggestion as to the height the spar should be at so that it's
>comfortable working on both the top and bottom?
>Albert Gardner
>Yuma, AZ
>RV-9A: Tail done, starting on wings
Hey Albert,
I made it down here to Yuma in one piece, will give you a call and we'el hook
up. I set my wing skeleton just high enough so I could roll around on a
creeper board under the wing and reach up to buck all the rivets below the
stiffener.
Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | rv6 gear leg sockets |
Does the inner walls of the gear leg sockets on the 6 need something in them
like grease to keep them from rusting after the legs are inserted.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage/finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Wing Jig |
Albert-
I don't like to squat or sit on the floor so I opted to mount my spar at
about eye level. The only time you'll spend at the top (front) of your
wing is drilling the front of the tank and leading edge skin (oh, you're
building a -9, don't have do do that!) and perhaps dealing with the tank
to LE attach platenuts. If the -9 wing is similar to my -6A, you'll
spend MUCH more time doing stuff like flap on/flap off, aileron on/off,
fitting/attaching aileron brackets, fitting gap seal, flap brace etc. I
have a small office chair on wheels that's low enough to roll back and
forth under the spar and have done much work sitting. At this height,
you can balance the trailing edge of the flap and aileron on your knees
for attachment and removal. Has worked very well. Just be sure to pad
the end of your spar- it'll put your eye out!!! ;)
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark -ALMOST done with 2nd wing!!!
Albert Gardner wrote:
>
>
> I'm just setting up the brackets to hold the wing front spar. Does anyone
> have a suggestion as to the height the spar should be at so that it's
> comfortable working on both the top and bottom?
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
> RV-9A: Tail done, starting on wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Wing Jig |
Fellow builders -
I built my wings several years ago but found that when I had completed the
wing , less the cotrol surfaces, that it was easier to flip the wing over so
it sat leading edge down. I moved the jig arms down so that the wing leading
edge was about 6" off the floor and that left the trailing edge at a good
working height and was much easier installing the aileron hinges, flap
brace, and control surfaces.
Douglas G. Murray RV-6 C-GRPA
Southern Alberta
>
> Albert-
>
> I don't like to squat or sit on the floor so I opted to mount my spar at
> about eye level. The only time you'll spend at the top (front) of your
> wing is drilling the front of the tank and leading edge skin (oh, you're
> building a -9, don't have do do that!) and perhaps dealing with the tank
> to LE attach platenuts. If the -9 wing is similar to my -6A, you'll
> spend MUCH more time doing stuff like flap on/flap off, aileron on/off,
> fitting/attaching aileron brackets, fitting gap seal, flap brace etc. I
> have a small office chair on wheels that's low enough to roll back and
> forth under the spar and have done much work sitting. At this height,
> you can balance the trailing edge of the flap and aileron on your knees
> for attachment and removal. Has worked very well. Just be sure to pad
> the end of your spar- it'll put your eye out!!! ;)
>
> From the PossumWorks in TN
> Mark -ALMOST done with 2nd wing!!!
>
> Albert Gardner wrote:
> >
> >
> > I'm just setting up the brackets to hold the wing front spar. Does
anyone
> > have a suggestion as to the height the spar should be at so that it's
> > comfortable working on both the top and bottom?
> > Albert Gardner
> > Yuma, AZ
> > RV-9A: Tail done, starting on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Dow Corning #7 Compound Release Agent |
I just received my McCauley governor from Van's. The directions for use
say to put some Dow Corning #7 Compound Release Agent on the gasket.
Anyone know a source? A substitute? Thanks.
Rick Jory RV8A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Skin Looseness |
> He had his straps in between the bulkheads whereas when I built mine,
> i put
> the straps next to the bulkheads. Does the strap location make a
> difference
> or is this skin just formed this way? We didn't have time to shift
> the
> straps around tonight to find out so I thought I'd ask the List.
I'm pretty sure that's your problem.
If you get the straps in between bulkheads you'll pull the skin in
beyond the normal line, and then when drilled and the straps released
that skin will be loose.
You had it right - tighten the straps on top of the bulkheads to avoid
this, and to avoid bending longerons.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Panel
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dow Corning #7 Compound Release Agent |
I bought a tube of DC-7 from Aircraft Spruce.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Rick Jory wrote:
>
> I just received my McCauley governor from Van's. The directions for use
> say to put some Dow Corning #7 Compound Release Agent on the gasket.
> Anyone know a source? A substitute? Thanks.
> Rick Jory RV8A QB
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Dow Corning #7 Compound Release Agent |
In a message dated 2/16/01 9:00:17 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rickjory(at)email.msn.com writes:
<<
I just received my McCauley governor from Van's. The directions for use
say to put some Dow Corning #7 Compound Release Agent on the gasket.
Anyone know a source? A substitute? Thanks. >>
Rick, you could use DC 4 compound or DC 111 compound as a substitute. 4 is
designed for electrical applications and is a bit stiffer (more viscous) and
111 is much stiffer but should work for you if applied carefully. Dow Corning
compounds are distributed thru many local ball and roller bearing supply
stores.
Dale Ensing
RV-6A finishing wiring - still!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: NavAid question |
Where do you gave your Sunday Morning breakfast? I have a flying RV4 in
Poplar Grove ILL. I Might be interested. Bob Murphy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: Lamp Test Schematic |
I would like a copy . THank You.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garrett Bray" <braygarrett(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv6 gear leg sockets |
Jerry,
I masked off the portion of the gear leg that goes into the socket when I
painted the legs. Upon assy, I coated the unpainted sections with grease
just in case I had to remove them at a later date.
Gary Bray
Carmel, Me
RV-6 flying.....waiting for a bit warmer weather
>
>Does the inner walls of the gear leg sockets on the 6 need something in
>them
>like grease to keep them from rusting after the legs are inserted.
>
>Jerry Calvert
>Edmond Ok
>-6 fuselage/finish kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dfmorrow(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Plexiglass scratch |
Aircraft Spruce (page 302 of current catalog) lists a half dozen or so
windshield restoration kits at a variety of prices. Must be a common
problem. I haven't used any of them myself, but I remember Aviation Consumer
once evaluated a bunch of them. Unfortunately I don't know which issue.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Exhaust help needed |
Goodness sake I feel so needy this month! I'm having trouble yet again!
Let's say that theoretically I was installing my exhaust system today (RV-4
crossover system from AS&S). And let's say theoretically that I was
tightening the nuts on the studs that hold the exhaust flanges in place.
And let's say theoretically that I might have over tightened one. And let's
say that theoretically that stud *may* have rotated a bit. Theortically
speaking, what kind of trouble would I be in? Anyone have any
suggestions...theoretically? Need assistance fairly quick. If you feel
like talking theory you can even call me at 209-986-4647. Otherwise I'll be
staring at my email waiting for replies. Theoretically...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <DonH(at)axonn.com> |
| Subject: | RV Paint schemes |
I was put off by the $20 fee, and the fact that all the freebie samples were
variations on the ubituitous white-with-a-few-miscellaneous-stripes that I
find so boring. There are so many mostly-white airplanes out there that a
simple solid color really stands out. It's partly the boring paint schemes
that make spam cans so dull to look at.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Streit [mailto:wooody98(at)bellsouth.net]
> Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 10:09 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV Paint schemes
>
>
>
> There is a internet site that will be useful for those who
> are trying to
> work up a paint scheme for their RV.
>
> go to www.aircraftpaintschemes.com and have a look around. They say
> they have around 1400 different paint schemes to choose from...
>
> Jim Streit
> RV-9A
> 90073
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
| Subject: | Wood gear leg stiffeners |
I've noticed vans is now adding the bulkhead and changing to epoxy pants.
But, could you elaborate on the balancing procedure you used on the wheel
pants.
I also wonder why balance would make that big of difference to a stationary
(non-rotating) wheel pant?? Why wouldn't we spin balance the tire- rims??
As compared to its physical alignment with the airflow, balance would seem
to be secondary. I'm very curious, as it's been posted as a remedy for some
time...
Steve
capsteve(at)wzrd.com
>
> Why not solve the problem. Balance the wheel pants.
First put a bulkhead behind the wheel (I don't see them on Van's
products, but Sam James has a nice cut out that can be glassed in) to
keep dirt out of the rear of the pants, then balance them, IMHO.
Boyd Braem
N600SS
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust help needed |
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
>
> Goodness sake I feel so needy this month! I'm having trouble yet again!
> Let's say that theoretically I was installing my exhaust system today (RV-4
> crossover system from AS&S). And let's say theoretically that I was
> tightening the nuts on the studs that hold the exhaust flanges in place.
> And let's say theoretically that I might have over tightened one. And let's
> say that theoretically that stud *may* have rotated a bit. Theortically
> speaking, what kind of trouble would I be in? Anyone have any
> suggestions...theoretically? Need assistance fairly quick. If you feel
> like talking theory you can even call me at 209-986-4647. Otherwise I'll be
> staring at my email waiting for replies. Theoretically...
>
Depends on what you mean by rotated a bit Scott. The studs are threaded and screw
in to the cylinder head. Now if you mean you over tightened it enough to have twisted
the stud then you would have to drill and tap and then usually have to put
in a heli coil.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wood gear leg stiffeners |
> First put a bulkhead behind the wheel (I don't see them on Van's
> products, but Sam James has a nice cut out that can be glassed in) to
> keep dirt out of the rear of the pants, then balance them, IMHO.
>
As a data point, Van's is starting to get their wheel pants from G.
Orndorff which are not only lighter, but do have a bulkhead (mains,
anyway - didn't see any examples for the nosewheel).
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Panel
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust help needed |
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
>
> Goodness sake I feel so needy this month! I'm having trouble yet again!
> Let's say that theoretically I was installing my exhaust system today (RV-4
> crossover system from AS&S). And let's say theoretically that I was
> tightening the nuts on the studs that hold the exhaust flanges in place.
> And let's say theoretically that I might have over tightened one. And let's
> say that theoretically that stud *may* have rotated a bit. Theortically
> speaking, what kind of trouble would I be in? Anyone have any
> suggestions...theoretically? Need assistance fairly quick. If you feel
> like talking theory you can even call me at 209-986-4647. Otherwise I'll be
> staring at my email waiting for replies. Theoretically...
>
Let's say, theoretically, that your a/c quality engine
assembled by a/c quality personel theoretically had an
exhaust stud that, theoretically, didn't get tightened
enough when it was assembled by those a/c quality
personel...
Did you tighten a 70 in/lb nut to 70 ft lbs, or did the nut
bottom out & turn the stud, or was the stud just loose to
start with (see p. one above)? If it were mine & the 70 ft
lb didn't happen, I wouldn't worry too much, except to be
sure the stud isn't too loose. I once had an MG Midget (only
slightly more sophisticated than a/c stuff) which had it's
combination intake/exhaust studs back out on a regular
basis.
Charlie
(Just went 3-for-4 on exhaust gaskets at annual on my -4)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wood gear leg stiffeners |
-----Original Message-----
From: Steven DiNieri <capsteve(at)wzrd.com>
Date: Friday, February 16, 2001 3:18 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Wood gear leg stiffeners
>
> I've noticed vans is now adding the bulkhead and changing to epoxy
pants.
>But, could you elaborate on the balancing procedure you used on the wheel
>pants.
> I also wonder why balance would make that big of difference to a
stationary
>(non-rotating) wheel pant?? Why wouldn't we spin balance the tire- rims??
>As compared to its physical alignment with the airflow, balance would seem
>to be secondary. I'm very curious, as it's been posted as a remedy for
some
>time...
>
> Steve
> capsteve(at)wzrd.com
>
The longitudinal balance is reduce the damping time when the gear legs begin
oscillating. The out-of-balance wheel fairings act like a weight on the end
on a thin rod -- when set into oscillation, the weight causes the
oscillation amplitude to increase.
Some C172 owners (myself included) balance their wheels to reduce wheel
shimmy. I don't know if it helps on an RV.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 43 hours -- working on wheel fairings now
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
| Subject: | RV Paint schemes |
Here is a site with a bunch of cool paint schemes...
http://www.aerosport.com/gallery/gallery1.html
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
I've been starting to pick up some vibrations in my 6A. Its not that noticeable
yet, but I can feel an increased overall roughness. I can also definitely feel
it if I touch the panel, as do the instruments, as the altimeter needle is
starting to bounce around. My mag checks are good and my 4 egts appear normal
within less than 100 degrees of each other.
I suspect that my 4 1/2 year old wood prop is starting to go out of balance,
mostly because when we used to have these problems with ultralights, a good prop
balance job or a new prop would typically make it go away. Then, when I
switched to Composite props which stay in balance, the periodic vibration
problems never returned.
Any comments? Is re-balancing of wood props considered standard maintenance
every 4-5 years?
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Kearns <ewkearns(at)triad.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust help needed |
--- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts ---
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--- StripMime Errors ---
A message with no text/plain section was received.
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---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Kearns <ewkearns(at)triad.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust help needed |
I'd ensure, theoretically, of course, that the stud "turned"
instead of stripping some threads.
If it just turned.... no big deal..... otherwise... help needed!
At 01:35 PM 2/16/01, you wrote:
>
>Goodness sake I feel so needy this month! I'm having trouble yet again!
>Let's say that theoretically I was installing my exhaust system today (RV-4
>crossover system from AS&S). And let's say theoretically that I was
>tightening the nuts on the studs that hold the exhaust flanges in place.
>And let's say theoretically that I might have over tightened one. And let's
>say that theoretically that stud *may* have rotated a bit. Theortically
>speaking, what kind of trouble would I be in? Anyone have any
>suggestions...theoretically? Need assistance fairly quick. If you feel
>like talking theory you can even call me at 209-986-4647. Otherwise I'll be
>staring at my email waiting for replies. Theoretically...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Chicago Area Aerobatics Seminar |
There will be an Aerobatics Seminar on Sat and Sun February 24th and
25th at Lewis University Airport (LOT) Main Terminal Building from 0900
to 1700 each day.
This event is sponsored by IAC and EAA Chapter 15. Guest speakers will
include Gene Littlefield, Doug Partl, Mike Hayles (parachutes), Doug
McConnell (President of IAC), John DeJoris (Aircraft Propeller Service)
and FAA/FSDO and IDOT representatives.
Lunch (hamburgers, hotdogs, chili etc), coffee and doughnuts will be
available (Beth and I along with EAA Chapter members will be providing
and selling the food) on both days.
No sign up is required, just bring yourself and an interest in
aerobatics.
Stop by and introduce yourself at lunch. I'll be the one flipping the
burgers.
For more details contact Jim Klick at klick(at)aps.anl.gov or
klick(at)corecomm.net
Mike Nellis
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
RV-6 N699BM (res) Gooping up the tanks
Plainfield, IL (LOT)
http://bmnellis.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> |
are your floor stiffners anchored to the spar.
RV6A 135 hrs
--- Andy wrote:
>
>
>
> I've been starting to pick up some vibrations in my
> 6A. Its not that noticeable
> yet, but I can feel an increased overall roughness.
> I can also definitely feel
> it if I touch the panel, as do the instruments, as
> the altimeter needle is
> starting to bounce around. My mag checks are good
> and my 4 egts appear normal
> within less than 100 degrees of each other.
>
> I suspect that my 4 1/2 year old wood prop is
> starting to go out of balance,
> mostly because when we used to have these problems
> with ultralights, a good prop
> balance job or a new prop would typically make it go
> away. Then, when I
> switched to Composite props which stay in balance,
> the periodic vibration
> problems never returned.
>
> Any comments? Is re-balancing of wood props
> considered standard maintenance
> every 4-5 years?
>
> Andy
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wood gear leg stiffeners |
>
Actually, a scraper for the wheel dirt and a very flexible (fiber-like)
sealer for the rest of the wheel fairing-to-wheel interface may be the
ideal solution (it would also act somewhat like a gap seal--but I would
still keep the bulkhead, I think.
> >> Why not solve the problem. Balance the wheel pants.
> >
> >First put a bulkhead behind the wheel (I don't see them on Van's
> >products, but Sam James has a nice cut out that can be glassed in) to
> >keep dirt out of the rear of the pants, then balance them, IMHO.
> >
> >Boyd Braem
> >N600SS
> >>
> >> Jim Ayers
> >> RV-3 N47RV
> >> Thousand Oaks, CA
> >>
> I think the new Van's epoxy fairings have the bulkhead. Cessna employs an
> adjustable scraper, which I am considering. The bulkhead approach can allow
> mud,or worse yet, soon-to-freeze slush, to pack in and impede wheel
> rotation. Any pros or cons from the list?
>
> The gear leg fairings upped my 75% cruise at 8500' from 150K to about 160K
> (only have two data points with fairings so far). I'm working on the wheel
> fairings now but the gain will certainly not be that great
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 43 hours
> Hampshire, IL C38
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Wood gear leg stiffeners |
While we're talking about gear leg stiffeners...
1. Where do they go? In front of the gear leg or behind it? The plans
aren't wonderfully clear on this!
2. What kind of wood?
Incidentally, I got fibreglass fairings in my Finish Kit last year.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Canopy Trimming |
I'm just all over the map today! Since it's fairly warm today I decided to
turn my attention to my canopy. I've been slowly trimming it to fit my
frame and the front and back look pretty good. The trouble is that the
sides of the canopy next to the passenger don't appear to come all the way
down to the tubing on the frame. Do I need to just pull the sides down and
make them fit? I still need to trim the final millimeters of flange off of
these sides which will shorten them even more. Any suggestions would be
appreciated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | RV4 for sale in Green Bay |
A friend of mine is contemplating buying an RV4 project from David Clabots
in Green Bay, WI. Anyone on this list have any insight into this project?
Please reply to alexpeterson(at)usjet.net, and not this list. Don't just hit
reply, PLEASE.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
Another RV8 has finally made it through inspection. It was not fun!
The inspector that we has was tough. He would not sign off the plane
without a POH. Even though he and the FAA agreed that it is not required
on an experimental.Just a word of warning.TerryB>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BERNIE KERR" <KERRJB(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vibrations (floor stiffners) |
Joe,
this is the same question you ask me when I sent you the picture of my
lowered fuel valve. Is there a message associated with this question? My
stiffners are not fastened to the spar. I spoke to Ken Green about this and
he did not think it necessary.
Bernie, 6A, no gear vibrations yet at 85 hours , SE Fla
----- Original Message -----
From: "joe wiza" <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 7:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: vibrations
>
> are your floor stiffners anchored to the spar.
>
>
> RV6A 135 hrs
>
>
> --- Andy wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > I've been starting to pick up some vibrations in my
> > 6A. Its not that noticeable
> > yet, but I can feel an increased overall roughness.
> > I can also definitely feel
> > it if I touch the panel, as do the instruments, as
> > the altimeter needle is
> > starting to bounce around. My mag checks are good
> > and my 4 egts appear normal
> > within less than 100 degrees of each other.
> >
> > I suspect that my 4 1/2 year old wood prop is
> > starting to go out of balance,
> > mostly because when we used to have these problems
> > with ultralights, a good prop
> > balance job or a new prop would typically make it go
> > away. Then, when I
> > switched to Composite props which stay in balance,
> > the periodic vibration
> > problems never returned.
> >
> > Any comments? Is re-balancing of wood props
> > considered standard maintenance
> > every 4-5 years?
> >
> > Andy
> >
> >
> >
> > through
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> > Matronics!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis /Fran Flamini" <flamini2(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NavAid question |
To Bob Murphy and others, Chicago area Sunday morning breakfast meets in the
air about 8am talk on 122.75 everyone welcome, about 6 RV's in group, last
week 17 planes and 30 people at Watertown, Wisc. Sometimes Mark and Sue
Wiencek (RV-6, N196SM) get some of the group to agree on a place before
Sunday so the slow planes can leave early. Drop an E-mail to Mark and Sue at
2wienceks(at)home.com to be put on the list, Dennis RV-10 Chicago, PS we also
have a 210hp cont RV-6 in the group
----- Original Message -----
From: "BOBE." <RVPilot4(at)webtv.net>
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 10:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: NavAid question
>
> Where do you gave your Sunday Morning breakfast? I have a flying RV4 in
> Poplar Grove ILL. I Might be interested. Bob Murphy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Velvick <tomvelvick(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Spring or mixture spring breakage |
There is also another emergency alternative that can be tried if your
mixture or throttle cable breaks. That is your primer. If you have an
electric primer you can turn on your boost pump and then give your engine
intermittent shots of primer that may keep it running and get you back to
the field. I am installing both springs and an electric primer on my
rv-6. The electric primer also keeps another gas line out of the cockpit.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
N67EZ Varieze
N188KJ reserved rv-6a wiring.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust help needed |
Gene, it you can double nut the stud and turn it out, this might be the
time. The old stud can be replaced with an over size stud. On the other
hand if it is tight and holds the proper torque, forget it. Many studs come
out when the nut corrodes so that they come out when you try loosening the
nut. That all is the time to get an over-sized replacement stud. They come
in about .003 increments so your can get .003, .006, .009 oversize and are
listed in the Continental parts book.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
EAA Chapter 75 helping fellow aviators
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gene Kearns" <ewkearns(at)triad.rr.com>
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 4:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Exhaust help needed
>
>
> I'd ensure, theoretically, of course, that the stud "turned"
> instead of stripping some threads.
>
> If it just turned.... no big deal..... otherwise... help needed!
>
>
> At 01:35 PM 2/16/01, you wrote:
> >
> >Goodness sake I feel so needy this month! I'm having trouble yet again!
> >Let's say that theoretically I was installing my exhaust system today
(RV-4
> >crossover system from AS&S). And let's say theoretically that I was
> >tightening the nuts on the studs that hold the exhaust flanges in place.
> >And let's say theoretically that I might have over tightened one. And
let's
> >say that theoretically that stud *may* have rotated a bit. Theortically
> >speaking, what kind of trouble would I be in? Anyone have any
> >suggestions...theoretically? Need assistance fairly quick. If you feel
> >like talking theory you can even call me at 209-986-4647. Otherwise I'll
be
> >staring at my email waiting for replies. Theoretically...
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Wood gear leg stiffeners |
In a message dated 2/16/01 3:55:51 PM Eastern Standard Time,
capsteve(at)wzrd.com writes:
> I also wonder why balance would make that big of difference to a stationary
> (non-rotating) wheel pant?? Why wouldn't we spin balance the tire- rims??
> As compared to its physical alignment with the airflow, balance would seem
> to be secondary. I'm very curious, as it's been posted as a remedy for some
> time...
>
> Steve
>
I balanced mine, and am not certain that balance is the real issue. What I
think is happening is that by adding weight in the nose of the assembly, you
greatly increase the moment of inertia of the wheel pant, which changes
(slows) its natural vibration frequency. I'm guessing that the natural
frequency of an unbalanced set of wheel pants can be close enough to that of
the gear legs that when one starts vibrating, the other follows.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
rv-list
| Subject: | RV8 seatback frame. |
Could anybody out there, measure for me across the F-805 and F-806
bulkheads and tell me what distance you have skin to skin.
conversely, if you have not installed the seatback support yet, could
you tell me what yours measures vertical flange to vertical flange ??
I am having some difficulty fitting the seatback support weldment.
it seems that I have a 1/4" gap after fitting all brackets and plates.
Van's send me some measurements and I was within 1/16" of those, sadly I
lost the email.
Van's solution is to use spacers between the flanges and the F-805 F-806
bulkheads, problem is the predrilled holes on top of the flanges won't
mate up with the canope rail supports.
likewise my front canopy bow is too narrow by 3/8". I have seen mail
regarding the bow being too narrow, I haven' t seen mail that the
seatback support had problems (yet)
Thanks in advance
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
We have a small problem (I hope) with the fit of our spinner.
We are finishing up fitting the spinner and have drilled the front and read
bulkhead holes and while making sure there was enough of an opening for the
blades to twist we noticed that the blades were contacting and slightly
flexing the rear bulkhead.
A call to Van's resulted in don't worry about it - less than a perfered
answer. Of course we should have thought to check this in the beginning -
But.
We've fitted the cowl and have a good 1/4" clearance the bulkhead.
As we see it we have three options: (Would appreciate additional ones)
1. Cut out the center of the front bulkhead and rivet in a 1/8" spacer plate
to shift the spinner 1/8" closer to the cowl. This will allow us to add a
couple washers - giving clearence between the prop blades and and the rear
bulkhead in flat pitch and retain 1/8' clearence between the rear
bulkhead?rear of spinner and the cowl.
2. Cut out or relieve the small area on the rear bulk head that is in
contact with the prop. Not sure sure how. This retains the 1/4" clearence
between the rear bulkhead & and cowl.
3. Follow Van's advice and forget about the fact that our C/S prop contacts
the rear bulkhead and flexes it.
We are leaning toward option # 1, but would appreciate any
commments/suggestions.
Thanks in advance.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (having fun with F/G)
Niantic, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wood gear leg stiffeners |
First you glue the wood strips to the legs, then you wrap with epoxy soaked
fiberglass. Doesn't really matter if stiffeners are on front or back as will be
inside the fairings.
But I don't see how this applies to the RV-8(A) gear.
Finn
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> About stiffening the gear legs... What about wrapping fiberglass around the
> legs? There is a couple RV's at my airport that have done this to stiffen
> the legs...
Shop online without a credit card
http://www.rocketcash.com
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wood gear leg stiffeners |
>
> In a message dated 2/16/01 3:55:51 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> capsteve(at)wzrd.com writes:
>
> > I also wonder why balance would make that big of difference to a stationary
> > (non-rotating) wheel pant?? Why wouldn't we spin balance the tire- rims??
> > As compared to its physical alignment with the airflow, balance would seem
> > to be secondary. I'm very curious, as it's been posted as a remedy for some
> > time...
> >
> > Steve
> >
>
> I balanced mine, and am not certain that balance is the real issue. What I
> think is happening is that by adding weight in the nose of the assembly, you
> greatly increase the moment of inertia of the wheel pant, which changes
> (slows) its natural vibration frequency. I'm guessing that the natural
> frequency of an unbalanced set of wheel pants can be close enough to that of
> the gear legs that when one starts vibrating, the other follows.
>
> Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
> RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
Kyle, this matches my experience with my RV-3. The shimmey diminished
significantly when I changed to the heavier Condor tires (about 2 pounds heavier
than the training tires which came with the kit).
Finn
Shop online without a credit card
http://www.rocketcash.com
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | blue vacuum hose |
Anyone know if Rapco will sell only the blue hose or perhaps know of a
source for the blue hose? I'm using Sigma Tek pump, but would like to use
the blue hose.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage/finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel Estrada F." <dani_estrada(at)infosel.net.mx> |
| Subject: | Prefabricated spar cost.... |
Hello listers,
I am very near to finish my emp kit, Im working right now on the right
elevator and promtly I must order my wing kit.
BTW, I have a little doubt, The price of the wing kit from Van's include the
prefabricated spar built for Phlogiston?..or I need to add the cost apart
from the total price of the wing kit..?
And how much I will need to pay for the pre-fab spar..?
Thanks
Daniel Estrada
Mexico City
RV6A emp (thinking on wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: C/S Spinner Fit |
Chuck,
Did you install the spacers between the rear bulkhead and the prop hub?
Cash Copeland
>
> We have a small problem (I hope) with the fit of our spinner.
>
> We are finishing up fitting the spinner and have drilled the front and read
> bulkhead holes and while making sure there was enough of an opening for the
> blades to twist we noticed that the blades were contacting and slightly
> flexing the rear bulkhead.
>
> A call to Van's resulted in don't worry about it - less than a perfered
> answer. Of course we should have thought to check this in the beginning -
> But.
>
> We've fitted the cowl and have a good 1/4" clearance the bulkhead.
>
> As we see it we have three options: (Would appreciate additional ones)
>
> 1. Cut out the center of the front bulkhead and rivet in a 1/8" spacer
> plate
> to shift the spinner 1/8" closer to the cowl. This will allow us to add a
> couple washers - giving clearence between the prop blades and and the rear
> bulkhead in flat pitch and retain 1/8' clearence between the rear
> bulkhead?rear of spinner and the cowl.
>
> 2. Cut out or relieve the small area on the rear bulk head that is in
> contact with the prop. Not sure sure how. This retains the 1/4" clearence
> between the rear bulkhead & and cowl.
>
> 3. Follow Van's advice and forget about the fact that our C/S prop contacts
> the rear bulkhead and flexes it.
>
> We are leaning toward option # 1, but would appreciate any
> commments/suggestions.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
> RV-8A (having fun with F/G)
> Niantic, CT
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Henry Gorgas Feb Class - short report |
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)telus.net> |
Terri:
I'm just a few hours ahead of you (after many years of being a wannabe).
You're right, it's just a bunch of small jobs that you tackle one at a time.
I'm about 1/3 through my empennage (I think), and getting more excited about
it every day.
Hope to see you at a fly-in one day.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Brick" <jbrick(at)wolfenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Canopy Trimming |
I had the same problem. I trimmed enough off the back end of the canopy so
that the sides would overlap the bow along the back seat. Then the rear bow
had to be cut and shortened quite a bit so the canopy wouldn't shove it down
into the aft fuse skin. The aft bow then had to be reformed to fit the
Plexiglas...not easy because it is 6061 T6? (hard). I spliced it back
together by inserting soft alum tube.
I think shortening the canopy that way complicates fitting the side skirt
around the back. I cut and lapped the side skirts at the rear vertical
member of the canopy frame but they want to buckle as they travel the
shorter curve. I'm now working my third set of aft skirts. If I knew
anything about fiberglass I would try that...maybe later. Sorry I can't
offer a solution.
jb
RV-4 Canopy
Graham, WA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 4:36 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Canopy Trimming
>
> I'm just all over the map today! Since it's fairly warm today I decided
to
> turn my attention to my canopy. I've been slowly trimming it to fit my
> frame and the front and back look pretty good. The trouble is that the
> sides of the canopy next to the passenger don't appear to come all the way
> down to the tubing on the frame. Do I need to just pull the sides down
and
> make them fit? I still need to trim the final millimeters of flange off
of
> these sides which will shorten them even more. Any suggestions would be
> appreciated.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Prefabricated spar cost.... |
Daniel, the pre fab spars are extra-approx $950 extra. You need to contact
Phlogiston and they will co-ordinate with Vans. The spar pieces are sent to
Phlogiston assembled, and then sent back to Vans in order that your entire
wing kit can be shipped together. Many of guys will tell you to save your
$950 and do it yourself. Others have told me differently. It will help resale
of your plane someday, and I did not want to bother with the larger
rivets-too much possible damage in my mind if I had to drill too many of them
out. Contact me off list if you want to know more. Bob in Arkansas skinning
first wing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 2/16/01 2:31:25 PM Pacific Standard Time,
winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com writes:
<< I've been starting to pick up some vibrations in my 6A. Its not that
noticeable
yet, but I can feel an increased overall roughness. I can also definitely
feel
it if I touch the panel, as do the instruments, as the altimeter needle is
starting to bounce around. My mag checks are good and my 4 egts appear
normal
within less than 100 degrees of each other.
I suspect that my 4 1/2 year old wood prop is starting to go out of balance,
mostly because when we used to have these problems with ultralights, a good
prop
balance job or a new prop would typically make it go away. Then, when I
switched to Composite props which stay in balance, the periodic vibration
problems never returned.
Any comments? Is re-balancing of wood props considered standard maintenance
every 4-5 years? >>
Just curious, but do you turn your blades horizontal during inactive periods
or just let gravity pull internal moisture toward one blade?
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: blue vacuum hose |
In a message dated 2/16/01 8:48:55 PM Pacific Standard Time, rv6bldr(at)home.com
writes:
<< Anyone know if Rapco will sell only the blue hose or perhaps know of a
source for the blue hose? I'm using Sigma Tek pump, but would like to use
the blue hose. >>
Hobby stores have short sections of transparent blue silicone hose available,
but I think the wall thickness inadequate for vacuum service. It's used for
exhaust tubing on RC models. You may be able to buy longer lengths on
special order. I used the 7/8 blue OD 5/8 red ID silicone hose that the
local Ford dealer uses as coolant lines to heater cores on police cars. It's
a Motorcraft part number and the info is in the archives. It will last well
into the next ice age.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: C/S Spinner Fit |
In a message dated 2/16/01 8:37:19 PM Pacific Standard Time,
crowbotham(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< We are finishing up fitting the spinner and have drilled the front and
read
bulkhead holes and while making sure there was enough of an opening for the
blades to twist we noticed that the blades were contacting and slightly
flexing the rear bulkhead.
A call to Van's resulted in don't worry about it - less than a preferred
answer. Of course we should have thought to check this in the beginning -
But.
We've fitted the cowl and have a good 1/4" clearance the bulkhead.
As we see it we have three options: (Would appreciate additional ones)
1. Cut out the center of the front bulkhead and rivet in a 1/8" spacer plate
to shift the spinner 1/8" closer to the cowl. This will allow us to add a
couple washers - giving clearance between the prop blades and the rear
bulkhead in flat pitch and retain 1/8' clearance between the rear
bulkhead of spinner and the cowl.
2. Cut out or relieve the small area on the rear bulk head that is in
contact with the prop. Not sure how. This retains the 1/4" clearance
between the rear bulkhead & and cowl.
3. Follow Van's advice and forget about the fact that our C/S prop contacts
the rear bulkhead and flexes it. >>
This is a well known problem that is addressed in the archives. I don't
believe that you will ever use all of the pitch that is available in that
prop. You would have to be properly pitched for going around 300 mph
(straight down?) at the top end of the prop restriction (2250 rpm) to get
near 36 degrees of pitch at the 30" radius.
That said, I added one washer on each of the supplied spacers prior to
attaching the rear spinner bulkhead. I have a bulkhead to cowling clearance
of 3/16" and no scuffing of the cowling ever.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Prefabricated spar cost.... |
Daniel,
Look at my web site, Rv photos, Wings page 1,
(http://ca.geocities.com/rvn106wp/) and you'll see a picture of me using the
5x rivet gun>
John Danielson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon Robertson <gordon(at)safemail.com> |
Hi folks
After building the vert and horiz empenage and both wings using Tempco
rattle cans of primer, I was outraged to find for the second time an
entire batch (8 cans) all with clogged nozzles. Sometimes a batch
works, sometimes it doesnt.
So I want to go the more conventional route. I would like to buy a
spray system and the primer paint that gives me the advantages of the
rattle can but without the disadvantage of running out when the cans
clog up.
What suggestions for the spray gun and primer does the list have that
gives me these advantages:
Easy to use and quick to mix up (if necessary)
Minimal or no cleanup afterwards
Useful for fairly large jobs like bulkheads, and also for very little
jobs like forgotten brackets
Gordon Robertson
RV8 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: blue vacuum hose |
Jerry, I used wire reinforced PVC tubing for these lines inside the cockpit.
The wire reinforcement is a single spiral wire, so it bends nicely. I got
it from McMaster, 630-833-0300. I like the fact that it is transparent,
hence one can see if there is crud in them. P/N 5393K42 for 3/8" ID, about a
buck a foot.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
> Anyone know if Rapco will sell only the blue hose or perhaps know of a
> source for the blue hose? I'm using Sigma Tek pump, but would like to use
> the blue hose.
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok
> -6 fuselage/finishing kit
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl Fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Canopy Trimming |
I just went through this last month and had the same problem. I trimmed
the front and back quite a few times which helped but did not solve
the problem. I then took a ratchet strap and put around the fuse and
canopy midway of the canopy and pulled it down. It does not take much
pressure and then drilled and put in a few rivets spaced about 10 inches
to hold it in place. I am now waiting on my second set of skirts as I
was not pleased with the first set. Go easy when trying to fit these.
I would also suggest you remove the rollbar while fitting the canopy.
I also sprayed the canopy with spraylat available from Aircraft Spruce.
It forms a strippable protective coating that will protect the canopy..
Hope this helps.
Earl RV4
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
>
> I'm just all over the map today! Since it's fairly warm today I decided to
> turn my attention to my canopy. I've been slowly trimming it to fit my
> frame and the front and back look pretty good. The trouble is that the
> sides of the canopy next to the passenger don't appear to come all the way
> down to the tubing on the frame. Do I need to just pull the sides down and
> make them fit? I still need to trim the final millimeters of flange off of
> these sides which will shorten them even more. Any suggestions would be
> appreciated.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wood gear leg stiffeners |
I'm not sure what you are building, but on an 8A most Home Depot / lumber
stores have standard wood molding strips that would go between a floor and
wall for decorative purposes. I used a plain strip (no fancy curves on the
face) . . . 2 1/4" wide. It tapers from almost a point on one edge to a
"rounded" 5/8" on the other edge. These are cut, per plans, and fit inside
Van's leg fairings nicely. FMHO, Cutting the stiffeners is best done on a
bandsaw with tiltable table (my cheapy Sears does this) because you are
cutting along the length of the stiffener at an angle, necking down the
piece, plus the cut surface is at an angle so the left/right sides can mate
together (this is shown on the plans). As to front/back, apparently it
doesn't matter, and mine fit either front or back. Good luck.
Rick Jory RV8A QB
----- Original Message -----
From: Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz>
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 5:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wood gear leg stiffeners
>
> While we're talking about gear leg stiffeners...
>
> 1. Where do they go? In front of the gear leg or behind it? The plans
> aren't wonderfully clear on this!
>
> 2. What kind of wood?
>
> Incidentally, I got fibreglass fairings in my Finish Kit last year.
>
> Frank.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
There are other rattle can primers available. I've used Sherwin Wiliams
GBP988 for all of my kit so far. No clogged nozzles. Available at Sherwin
Williams Automotive paint stores.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gordon Robertson
> Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2001 1:47 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: More on priming
>
>
> Hi folks
>
> After building the vert and horiz empenage and both wings using Tempco
> rattle cans of primer, I was outraged to find for the second time an
> entire batch (8 cans) all with clogged nozzles. Sometimes a batch
> works, sometimes it doesnt.
>
> So I want to go the more conventional route. I would like to buy a
> spray system and the primer paint that gives me the advantages of the
> rattle can but without the disadvantage of running out when the cans
> clog up.
>
> What suggestions for the spray gun and primer does the list have that
> gives me these advantages:
>
> Easy to use and quick to mix up (if necessary)
> Minimal or no cleanup afterwards
> Useful for fairly large jobs like bulkheads, and also for very little
> jobs like forgotten brackets
>
>
> Gordon Robertson
> RV8 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Wood gear leg stiffeners |
The -9 uses flat spring steel mains, but the -8A uses mains similar to
the -6A...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Finn Lassen
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 9.37 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wood gear leg stiffeners
First you glue the wood strips to the legs, then you wrap with epoxy soaked
fiberglass. Doesn't really matter if stiffeners are on front or back as will
be
inside the fairings.
But I don't see how this applies to the RV-8(A) gear.
Finn
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> About stiffening the gear legs... What about wrapping fiberglass around
the
> legs? There is a couple RV's at my airport that have done this to stiffen
> the legs...
Shop online without a credit card
http://www.rocketcash.com
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prefabricated spar cost.... |
-----Original Message-----
From: Daniel Estrada F. <dani_estrada(at)infosel.net.mx>
Date: Friday, February 16, 2001 11:23 PM
Subject: RV-List: Prefabricated spar cost....
>
>Hello listers,
>
>And how much I will need to pay for the pre-fab spar..?
>
>Thanks
>
>Daniel Estrada
Daniel, You didn't say which RV you were building? I am in the fuselage
stage of a 6A. I, like you, considered the "pre-built " spar but opted for
building it myself. I found that building the spar was NO PROBLEM!! I drove
the rivets using 90lbs of air and my 3X gun and saved a thousand $ or so.
"Piece of cake"! Took about 30 hours total.
Tommy Walker
6A Fuselage
Ridgetop, TN "Weaselworks"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Gretz Pitot Questions... |
Quick question for ya folks...Im installing the gretz aero AN5812 heated
pitot tube (with mount extension) and have a couple questions.
1. Is says what spec wire to use, but what is the consensus on the
gauge that everyone has been using?
2. It also says to use "lead-silver solder, Federal Spec
QQ-S-571"....cant seem to find much info on this in the catalogs I have....
Thanks as always for the help!!!!
Kurt, OKC, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry & Karen Gooding <GOODING(at)hargray.com> |
St Augustine Airport has taken down a row of older hangars. We hear the
structural steel is in surprisingly good condition. The skins would be
usable but need replacement if you want it to look good. If interested
call Roy Miller at (904) 692-1786
Karen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prefabricated spar cost.... |
And how much I will need to pay for the pre-fab spar..
Daniel,
You really don't need to pay anything. Save the 9200 pesos and do it yourself.
There is really not much to it, the holes are all pre-drilled, all you have to
do is
deburr and polish the pieces, prime it and rivet it together. Several replies
have
mentioned using a large rivet gun, I used the Avery C frame tool with a 4 LB small
sledge hammer (as explained in the manual) and found it worked great. Only had
one
bad rivet to drill out. Save the money and just build it.
For what it's worth, the three biggest hurdles (so I was told) in this project
are
the spars, the tanks and the canopy. Doing the spars yourself gives a certain
confidence to attack the other two later on. I am looking forward to starting
my
tanks shortly.
Jeff Point
-6 wings
Milwaukee WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Prefabricated spar cost.... |
Daniel, The pre-fab spar is an option that adds to the cost of the wing
kit. It is completely unnecessary as the spar is very easy to build. The
fact that Van offers a pre-built one brings up the intimidating doubt that
this is an important piece that needs to be professionally built but in fact
it is not the case. The spar is very straight forward and simple to build.
It doesn't even take that long to do. Save the money, do it yourself.
Thousands of homebuilt spars are out there.
My comments refer to kits produced after the mid nineties when the wing kits
became pre-punched. They must have been a bit more of a challenge before
when the builder had to drill all of those very important 3/16th holes.
(Comment Jerry?)
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
> I am very near to finish my emp kit, Im working right now on the right
> elevator and promtly I must order my wing kit.
>
> BTW, I have a little doubt, The price of the wing kit from Van's include
the
> prefabricated spar built for Phlogiston?..or I need to add the cost apart
> from the total price of the wing kit..?
>
> And how much I will need to pay for the pre-fab spar..?
>
> Thanks
>
> Daniel Estrada
> Mexico City
> RV6A emp (thinking on wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Prefabricated spar cost.... |
I think he's building a 9A but not positive. If so, the 9A comes with the
pre-built spar as standard. I don't think you can get it any other way.
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tommy Walker
Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2001 7:30 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prefabricated spar cost....
-----Original Message-----
From: Daniel Estrada F. <dani_estrada(at)infosel.net.mx>
Date: Friday, February 16, 2001 11:23 PM
Subject: RV-List: Prefabricated spar cost....
>
>Hello listers,
>
>And how much I will need to pay for the pre-fab spar..?
>
>Thanks
>
>Daniel Estrada
Daniel, You didn't say which RV you were building? I am in the fuselage
stage of a 6A. I, like you, considered the "pre-built " spar but opted for
building it myself. I found that building the spar was NO PROBLEM!! I drove
the rivets using 90lbs of air and my 3X gun and saved a thousand $ or so.
"Piece of cake"! Took about 30 hours total.
Tommy Walker
6A Fuselage
Ridgetop, TN "Weaselworks"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
Some time ago Joe Czachorowski mentioned a good way to temporarily place
the baggage door ribs on the baggage door prior to riveting. His method
used a "3M 2216 Epoxy". Anyone know where to get this? I've sent an
e-mail to Joe as well (and will post this on the rv-8 list also).
Thanks in advance.
rickjory(at)msn.com
Rick Jory RV8A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | Re: Prefabricated spar cost.... |
Daniel,
I made my own using a C-frame tool on my workbench, which sure beats
kneeling on the floor to do the rivetting. The base of my C-frame has a
steel rod extending from the die to a steel plate on the floor. As
most of the parts are ready for final prep (rec'd kit Apr. '99) it took
this first-timer about 60 hours to complete, but I work pretty slow,
YMMV! Very pleased with the results.
If you'd like more info and photos, contact me off-list.
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips -6A, skinning 2nd wing...
Daniel Estrada F. wrote:
> BTW, I have a little doubt, The price of the wing kit from Van's include the
> prefabricated spar built for Phlogiston?..or I need to add the cost apart
> from the total price of the wing kit..?
>
> And how much I will need to pay for the pre-fab spar..?
>
> Thanks
>
> Daniel Estrada
> Mexico City
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Sweemer" <teetimeah64(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | making a cowling |
This is for the cowling on the junction between the vertical and horizontal
stabilizers. Has anyone tried spraying that expanding foam in there,
sanding it down and then laying up the glass on that? I have never liked
the way I made the other one and thought I might try it this way.
Tim
RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Where is Drawing 30? |
List:
Has plan #30 been eliminated from the -6A? I am in the process of cutting
the angle required for the elevator belcrank ribs F 629 and F628. Plan #33
shows an exploded view of the area where the elevator belcrank fits with
these ribs and points out the angle for them and has the builder refer to
dwg 30. No such drawing in my kit, and the packing list confirms it. I
*do* have it in the preview plans that I purchased in 1996.
In the preview plans, dwg 30 calls out for .063x3/4x3/4 angle. Can I asume
that this is the correct size angle to use here? Thanks in advance folks.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuse
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Outboard Wing Rib.. |
Another in a series of questions....
Am in the process of finishing a QB wing and the plans seem to show that
the flange of the most outboard rib is to the inside of the wing. (making
riveting very difficult). Is there any problem with switching the left and
right outboard ribs so that the flange is to the outboard side to make
riveting easier?? Hate to deviate from the plans...but....
Kurt, OKC, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Outboard Wing Rib.. |
Kurt,
The method of attaching the wingtips would have to be modified. The rib
rivits would be in the way of the fiberglass wingtip flange that slids in
there. The rivets aren't too bad to buck by reaching in the rib lightening
holes.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage/finishing...putting on the wheels.
----- Original Message -----
From: <KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2001 2:22 PM
Subject: RV-List: Outboard Wing Rib..
>
> Another in a series of questions....
>
> Am in the process of finishing a QB wing and the plans seem to show
that
> the flange of the most outboard rib is to the inside of the wing. (making
> riveting very difficult). Is there any problem with switching the left
and
> right outboard ribs so that the flange is to the outboard side to make
> riveting easier?? Hate to deviate from the plans...but....
>
> Kurt, OKC, OK
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Outboard Wing Rib.. |
>Is there any problem with switching the left and
>right outboard ribs so that the flange is to the outboard side to make
>riveting easier?? >
>
Kurt, I can't think of a structural reason not to switch em, provided you
push them inboard enough to allow for the wing tips to fit up. I didn't find
that riviting them as per plans was any problem at all though! Check with
Van's before you switch em though!
Tommy
6A fuselage
Ridgetop, TN "WeaselWorks"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | oil cooler doors - final answer |
Enough speculation. An oil cooler door DOES work well to regulate oil
temperatures and a permanent cockpit controllable sliding door is being
installed on my 6A.
Previously my oil temps were much too low. Even in an extended climb I would
not see much over 140 degrees. Not good!
Today, as an experiment, I sealed with duct tape the air entrance to the oil
cooler; a 3" hole in the rear of the baffle that feeds cooling air via a
10" length of scat tube to the firewall mounted cooler. After about 10
minutes flying at as high power as I can get up here my oil temps climbed to
and stabilized at about 185 degrees. I flew for another 1/2 hour or so
including a full throttle 90 mph climb to 14,000 and watched the steady
indicator at that perfect 180-185 level. I then landed, pulled off the duct
tape, went to have lunch while things cooled a bit, and took off again. Back
to 140-145 degree temps.
Bottom line - done deal - final answer! Restricting airflow at the intake of
the oil cooler does work in regulating temperatures.
I also feel that a controllable door is a necessity. If I was content buzzing
around the Fraser Valley in similar conditions, a permanent patch would be
OK. But, if instead I wanted to hop over the hills into Denver, (4000' lower
and 20 degrees warmer), and then face a long climb from 5000 - 14,000 to
sneak back over the pass, I'm sure a blocked oil cooler would have caused
overly warm temps.
There was some discussion earlier that oil does not even go into the cooler
until about 180 degrees. This is not true. We do not have thermostatically
controlled valves accessing the oil cooler. Its just an open hose and oil
flows through the circuit at all times. My hangar partner who flies Falcon
Jets for a living said that some advanced turbines have such a feature. And
perhaps some bigger more advanced recip engines do too. But our simple little
360s and 320s don't.
A sliding door and the cooler intake seems like a simple thing to build
probably from scrap laying around my shop. Its the same as the cabin heat
door that most of us already have. Problem solved!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Where is Drawing 30? |
Jeff,
I didn't have #30 either and just used the preview #30.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage/finish kit
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Orear <jorear(at)mari.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2001 1:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: Where is Drawing 30?
>
> List:
>
> Has plan #30 been eliminated from the -6A? I am in the process of cutting
> the angle required for the elevator belcrank ribs F 629 and F628. Plan
#33
> shows an exploded view of the area where the elevator belcrank fits with
> these ribs and points out the angle for them and has the builder refer to
> dwg 30. No such drawing in my kit, and the packing list confirms it. I
> *do* have it in the preview plans that I purchased in 1996.
>
> In the preview plans, dwg 30 calls out for .063x3/4x3/4 angle. Can I
asume
> that this is the correct size angle to use here? Thanks in advance folks.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A
> fuse
> Peshtigo, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Wood gear leg stiffeners |
>About stiffening the gear legs... What about wrapping fiberglass around the
>legs...............
I went that route. Still had shimmy. Balanced the wheel pants, still had
shimmy. Balanced the wheels, still had shimmy. Changed the air pressure of
tires, was either better or worse, depending on the pressure, still had
shimmy. Next step: wooden stiffeners.
I think you are either going to get leg gear shimmy, or you aren't (!).
There are some -4s that have the firberglass wrap only and no shimmy. There
are some that have just the balanced pants and no shimmy. Who knows. You
have to fly to know.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler doors - final answer |
Andy,
Grab you old direct drive Lycoming Overhaul manual and take a look at drawing 2-3
and 2-4. It depicts the oil lubrication path for 4 and 6 cylinder engines
respectivly. You'll notice that the 6 cylinder engine has an optional
thermostatic bypass valve available (veritherm). I happen to know it's also
available for 4 cylinder engines. So, save yourself some work. Call Lycoming and
see if they have one for your engine to replace the oil cooler bypass valve.
Bruce
Glasair III
Andy wrote:
>
> There was some discussion earlier that oil does not even go into the cooler
> until about 180 degrees. This is not true. We do not have thermostatically
> controlled valves accessing the oil cooler. Its just an open hose and oil
> flows through the circuit at all times. My hangar partner who flies Falcon
> Jets for a living said that some advanced turbines have such a feature. And
> perhaps some bigger more advanced recip engines do too. But our simple little
> 360s and 320s don't.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler doors - final answer |
Just my uneducated speculation here- the common thread in this
discussion is that blocking the REAR of the cooler often (but not
always) has little effect on cooling efficiency, but covering the FRONT
yeilds good results- (recalling several posters who sucessfully
duct-taped or had a butterfly type valve in the duct leading TO the
cooler) Perhaps there is enough turbulent, cold airflow within the
cooler itself when blocked at the exit and exposed at the plenum to
effect some degree of heat transfer...
I ain't no sientist, just a guess! :
)
From the PossumWorks in TN, y'all
Mark -6A
Andy wrote:
> Today, as an experiment, I sealed with duct tape the air entrance to the oil
> cooler; a 3" hole in the rear of the baffle that feeds cooling air via a
> 10" length of scat tube to the firewall mounted cooler. After about 10
> minutes flying at as high power as I can get up here my oil temps climbed to
> and stabilized at about 185 degrees. I flew for another 1/2 hour or so
> including a full throttle 90 mph climb to 14,000 and watched the steady
> indicator at that perfect 180-185 level. I then landed, pulled off the duct
> tape, went to have lunch while things cooled a bit, and took off again. Back
> to 140-145 degree temps.
>
> Bottom line - done deal - final answer! Restricting airflow at the intake of
> the oil cooler does work in regulating temperatures.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler doors - final answer |
Andy wrote:
>
>
> Enough speculation. An oil cooler door DOES work well to regulate oil
> temperatures and a permanent cockpit controllable sliding door is being
> installed on my 6A.
>
> Previously my oil temps were much too low. Even in an extended climb I would
> not see much over 140 degrees. Not good!
>
> Today, as an experiment, I sealed with duct tape the air entrance to the oil
> cooler; a 3" hole in the rear of the baffle that feeds cooling air via a
> 10" length of scat tube to the firewall mounted cooler. After about 10
> minutes flying at as high power as I can get up here my oil temps climbed to
> and stabilized at about 185 degrees. I flew for another 1/2 hour or so
> including a full throttle 90 mph climb to 14,000 and watched the steady
> indicator at that perfect 180-185 level. I then landed, pulled off the duct
> tape, went to have lunch while things cooled a bit, and took off again. Back
> to 140-145 degree temps.
>
> Bottom line - done deal - final answer! Restricting airflow at the intake of
> the oil cooler does work in regulating temperatures.
>
> I also feel that a controllable door is a necessity. If I was content buzzing
> around the Fraser Valley in similar conditions, a permanent patch would be
> OK. But, if instead I wanted to hop over the hills into Denver, (4000' lower
> and 20 degrees warmer), and then face a long climb from 5000 - 14,000 to
> sneak back over the pass, I'm sure a blocked oil cooler would have caused
> overly warm temps.
>
> There was some discussion earlier that oil does not even go into the cooler
> until about 180 degrees. This is not true. We do not have thermostatically
> controlled valves accessing the oil cooler. Its just an open hose and oil
> flows through the circuit at all times. My hangar partner who flies Falcon
> Jets for a living said that some advanced turbines have such a feature. And
> perhaps some bigger more advanced recip engines do too. But our simple little
> 360s and 320s don't.
>
> A sliding door and the cooler intake seems like a simple thing to build
> probably from scrap laying around my shop. Its the same as the cabin heat
> door that most of us already have. Problem solved!
>
Andy maybe your Falcon pilot should read Lycomings web page.
Just a small quote from there.
"Most oil systems offer as optional or standard, a thermostatic bypass
valve in this same location which also contains a pressure relief feature
to bypass the cooler in case it is clogged. As the name implies, this unit
regulates the temperature of the oil by either running it through the oil
cooler if it exceeds a preset temperature, or bypassing the oil cooler if
the oil temperature is lower than the thermostatic by-pass
setting."
Please note the part about by passing the cooler untill a certain
oil temp is reached.
Just out of curiosity what does he think the Vernatherm valve is for?
Jerry
jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Outboard Wing Rib.. |
Kurt: as the previous lister stated. Stay with the procedure listed in the
manual. You notice the aft end of the rib needs to be flat on the outboard
side to make a better surface for aileron outboard attach bracket. It also
makes the wing tip fit a lot nicer if the rib is flanged inboard. You can
reach the flange if you go through the lightening holes. My view on the
RV-6AQB.
Regards Harvey Sigmon RV-6aQB - Finishing stuff
> [Original Message]
> From: <KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM>
> To:
> Date: 2/17/2001 3:55:24 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Outboard Wing Rib..
>
>
> Another in a series of questions....
>
> Am in the process of finishing a QB wing and the plans seem to show
that
> the flange of the most outboard rib is to the inside of the wing.
(making
> riveting very difficult). Is there any problem with switching the left
and
> right outboard ribs so that the flange is to the outboard side to make
> riveting easier?? Hate to deviate from the plans...but....
>
> Kurt, OKC, OK
>
>
>
>
>
>
--- Harvey Sigmon
--- flyhars(at)earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
| Subject: | Paint Gun - Wanted |
I'm about to order an HVLP paint gun from Sharpe. But if I could help
someone and take away an HVLP gun that operates with an air compressor for a
reasonable price, please respond offline.
Anh
N985VU
Maryland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: making a cowling |
> This is for the cowling on the junction between the vertical and
horizontal
> stabilizers. Has anyone tried spraying that expanding foam in there,
> sanding it down and then laying up the glass on that
Should work peachy if you plan on digging out all the foam when you are
done. Lay plastic in there first and the foam should come out easily. To
leave it in would be begging for a weight and balance problem when water is
introduced. I would hate to see how far back the C of G would move if that
area trapped a bunch of rain water but I might be biased cause I live in the
Pacific Northwest. Good idea for a mold though..........Norman.........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler doors solve a symptom not the problem |
For those following this thread, the last two posts by Jerry Springer
and Bruce Gray bring up a very serious potential problem for RV
owner/operators: it appears that very few of our current or future
"certificated repairman" have never seen the inside of the Lycoming
Engine Operator's Manual, the Overhaul Manual or the Parts Catalog
(Mazda and Chevy guys are off the hook, for now.. If
you look at the Lubrication diagrams in the Overhaul Manual (2-3, 2-4)
it is obvious that a vernatherm valve between the oil pump and the oil
cooler (items#1 & 2) in the oil flow journey would allow the the oil
temp to reach 180 deg. F before the oil was diverted to the oil cooler.
This is an inexpensive part that is very simple to install, BUT it has
to be on the engine to work. You can use this neat device called a
telephone to order these manuals from Lycoming or call/email Andy at
Builders' Bookstore (Yeller Pages). The same device will get you the
vernatherm from Lycoming or maybe your local FBO.
It's incomprehensible to me how people can spend thousands of dollars
and hours on a project and not be able to fork over $50-60 for the
material that will actually save their bacon, while they page thru a POH
(downloaded from the 'Net) compiled by somebody else and probably has a
totally different engine and engine controls/devices.
Boyd Braem
N600SS
flame away--at least it will increase your chances of staying alive
>
>
> Andy wrote:
> >
> >
> > Enough speculation. An oil cooler door DOES work well to regulate oil
> > temperatures and a permanent cockpit controllable sliding door is being
> > installed on my 6A.
> >
> > Previously my oil temps were much too low. Even in an extended climb I would
> > not see much over 140 degrees. Not good!
> >
> > Today, as an experiment, I sealed with duct tape the air entrance to the oil
> > cooler; a 3" hole in the rear of the baffle that feeds cooling air via a
> > 10" length of scat tube to the firewall mounted cooler. After about 10
> > minutes flying at as high power as I can get up here my oil temps climbed to
> > and stabilized at about 185 degrees.
> Andy maybe your Falcon pilot should read Lycomings web page.
> Just a small quote from there.
> Jerry Springer
> "Most oil systems offer as optional or standard, a thermostatic bypass
> valve in this same location which also contains a pressure relief feature
> to bypass the cooler in case it is clogged. As the name implies, this unit
> regulates the temperature of the oil by either running it through the oil
> cooler if it exceeds a preset temperature, or bypassing the oil cooler if
> the oil temperature is lower than the thermostatic by-pass
> setting."
>
> Please note the part about by passing the cooler untill a certain
> oil temp is reached.
>
> Just out of curiosity what does he think the Vernatherm valve is for?
>
> Jerry
> jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net
>
> Andy,
>
> Grab you old direct drive Lycoming Overhaul manual and take a look at drawing
2-3
> and 2-4. It depicts the oil lubrication path for 4 and 6 cylinder engines
> respectivly. You'll notice that the 6 cylinder engine has an optional
> thermostatic bypass valve available (veritherm). I happen to know it's also
> available for 4 cylinder engines. So, save yourself some work. Call Lycoming
and
> see if they have one for your engine to replace the oil cooler bypass valve.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler doors - final answer |
-----Original Message-----
From: Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Date: Saturday, February 17, 2001 3:22 PM
Subject: RV-List: oil cooler doors - final answer
>
>
>Enough speculation. An oil cooler door DOES work well to regulate oil
>temperatures and a permanent cockpit controllable sliding door is being
>installed on my 6A.
Agreed, PROVIDED door is in front of cooler. I also confirmed this by
making a winter baffle that blocks the air from the inside of the baffling.
I now can achieve 215 F with 5 F OAT.
>
>
>Bottom line - done deal - final answer! Restricting airflow at the intake
of
>the oil cooler does work in regulating temperatures.
>
>>
>A sliding door and the cooler intake seems like a simple thing to build
>probably from scrap laying around my shop. Its the same as the cabin heat
>door that most of us already have. Problem solved!
Please post a picture of the sliding door when it is built. In my 6A with
O360A1A I could not use the cabin heat door as a model. Nor could I figure
out a way to fashion a sliding door that would effectively block the inlet
to the cooler. There isn't much room in that area in my plane.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 44 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Outboard Wing Rib.. |
In a message dated 2/17/01 2:27:26 PM Central Standard Time, KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< Am in the process of finishing a QB wing and the plans seem to show that
the flange of the most outboard rib is to the inside of the wing. (making
riveting very difficult). Is there any problem with switching the left and
right outboard ribs so that the flange is to the outboard side to make
riveting easier?? Hate to deviate from the plans...but....
>>
Hi Kurt,
I'm not familiar with the RV-8 but on the RV6 the outboard aileron bracket is
"L" shaped and fits with one leg of the "L" on the rear spar and the other
leg of the "L" is flush against the outboard rib web. If you were to reverse
it, the aileron bracket would no longer sit flush against the outboard rib.
It may be different on the 8 so check it out.
Good luck,
Eric Newton Long Beach, MS,
RV-6A N57ME (reserved) (canopy done -finish kit)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wood gear leg stiffeners on RV-8A? |
Mark,
We are at this point now. Van's sort of recommends the wood stiffeners but leaves
it up to the builder. Dave and I are leaning toward installing them - although
Dave is unconfortable about having wood (moisture sponge) contacting the metal
gear legs. I'll let the List know our decision.
Good Building,
Chuck Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (wings ready for paint - finishing F/G work)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christine & Arthur" <act(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Hi,
RV-8
When doing the final fitting of the legs to the Fuz the left leg torqued up
fine but we are having some difficulty with the right leg.
When torquing the bolts through the U803 the rear bolt tightens up much
sooner than the forward bolt leaving a larger gap between the U803 and
U805-1 at the rear than at the front. Also the U803 only contacts the leg at
the front leaving a gap a piece of paper can be slid trough at the rear.
Thought we had the problem figured out when we noticed the bolt holes
appeared to be angled back slightly so that even without the leg in the way
we had to have a small gap at the rear between the 803 and 805 to get the
bolts all the way through the holes. We cleared the holes with a drill so
the 803 could be held flush against the 805 and the bolts pushed all the way
through easily. Very little material was removed from the holes.
However subsequent fitting of the leg had the rear bolt tightening up early
again with the large gap at the rear!
Our next move will be to get some bluing compound and tighten the assembly
up to figure out where the contact areas are.
Any ideas much appreciated.
Cheers,
Arthur Whitehead
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
All,
We have just rec'd our Ti tie down kit from Randy and we couldn't be more pleased.
I think we've figured out why he provides free shipping - They are so darn
light they look great. The kit which includes a carry bag rope is first rate.
Highly recommended !
ChucK Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A ( finishing F/G work )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | High altitude operation |
Am considering a portable oxygen system...Sky Ox probably ... question: How
much fuel consumption reduction do you actually see operating VFR at 17,500
vrs 11,500/12,500 (when you don't have Ox) and what real-world change in
speed is realistically to be expected?
Any and all answers considered. Thanks!
RV6A Flying Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelsonhoffrv9(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: More on priming |
I've been using a cheap gun called a Docken sprayer. I bought it many years
ago and haven't actually seen it lately. It is merely a pistol grip device
with a small syphon tube that sits down in a paper cup that you fillwith
paint. The cup attaches to the gun via a c clip about 3" in diameter. Once
you are done painting you throw away the paper cup and run a little lacquer
thinner through the gunand you're done. Not much more than putting the cap
back on the spray can. My biggest problem right now is finding paper cups.
Everyone has gone to plastic and they dissolve in a heartbeat with thinners
and epoxy paints. I have actually written to Sweetheart cup co to see where I
can buy the right size. Now that I have the right formula for thinning and
pressure I think this is the way to go for easy priming. Not so good for
finish painting. Also. you can't tilt it much or the paint will run out the
top of the cup.
Curt Hoffman Loveland, OH
RV-9A (N912WK reserved)
Working on Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | F 635 layout problem |
Hi list,
I'm working on a 6 QB.I've built up the F635 bellcrank for the elevator
push/pull tubes and I believe that there is a problem with where it
mounts on the F629. If I'm reading the plans right, it should mount
through the horizontal angle in line with the rivets which are spaced
about 1 1/2" on center and through the (basically) vertical angle on the
F628. My problem is that when I lay it out, the location of the hole in
the F629 is only about 9/64" from the center of the last rivet. With a
3/16" hole, I'm drilling into the edge of the rivet. Then there is a 3"
gap where I'm guessing they thought that the bellcrank is supposed to
mount. On the F628 they left several rivets out at the bottom, but the
bellcrank layout appears to be between two of the ones they put in and
clear by about a half inch so that one should be OK. What now?
Ed Holyoke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: blue vacuum hose |
The rapco hose from the pump to regulator is standard automotive heater hose.
The smaller stuff is automotive also. I was jealous when my hangar mates kits
came with the blue hose until I found out is was heater hose. My kit came with
Aeroquip 306.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler doors - final answer |
> . We do not have thermostatically
> controlled valves accessing the oil cooler. Its just an open hose and oil
> flows through the circuit at all times.
A false statement Andy. The vernatherm is the valve that regulates oil to the
cooler to maintain oil temps. My O-360 has one and it stuck closed, real hi temps
then.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: High altitude operation |
>
> Am considering a portable oxygen system...Sky Ox probably ... question:
How
> much fuel consumption reduction do you actually see operating VFR at
17,500
> vrs 11,500/12,500 (when you don't have Ox) and what real-world change in
> speed is realistically to be expected?
>
John,
It takes a pretty long leg to justify climbing to 17,500 for fuel
consumption reasons alone. I have found I can cruise at 165 knots at 17,500
at about 7.5 gph (fixed pitch prop, O-360, RV-6). I'm happy with that but
you do lose some speed with all the time spent climbing. That is about 1
gph less than I would run at around 10,000 feet at 165 knots.
I love it up there for reasons other than economy, like great tailwinds and
terrain clearance over 14,000 foot mountain ranges. It also gives a sense
of security over rough terrain in the glide range it gives you in case of
engine problems.
As much as I like it, I consider 2 hour legs about minimum to justify it.
My web page (under Mountain Tour 2000) has some details about a trip I took
last summer where I operated quite a bit a high altitudes.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | High Altitude Flight Addition |
Listers:
I responded to a question about high altitude flight from memory but I
forgot something important. I said I get around 165 knots at 17,500 and 7.5
gph. When I looked at my own data I found my own fuel burn at that altitude
was slightly more but could be much less. That is because I have to lean to
best power at that altitude to get that much speed. At a best economy
leaning the fuel burn would be much better but I don't know what the speed
would be. Maybe around 155 knots at 6.5 to 7.0. Not sure. I'll have to
try it.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler doors - final answer |
Enough speculation. An oil cooler door DOES work well to regulate oil
>temperatures......
I have a door on the back side of the oil cooler and still have to block
off the incoming air to the cooler as the weather cools down. I have one
sized blocking aluminum plate for the oil cooler air intake for mild
weather and one for cold that stays in place all winter. I leave them off
if above 70F OAT. The back door seems to work best for keeping temperatures
even in the summer. SO: in my experience the door works and I use it often.
If I was to do it over, I would regulate the air coming INTO the cooler
rather than air coming OUT of the cooler. My setup, however, works just
fine for me.
My oil cooler is mounted on a bracket behind #3 cylinder and takes air off
the left rear baffle. The gate is controlled via control cable mounted on
the left sub instrument panel. 170-180F is the norm, year round.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3M 2216 Epoxy |
R. S. Hughes carries all the 3M epoxies. I make extensive use of several of
the epoxies, including this one, in my RV8. They have stores thoughout the
U. S.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 panel & wiring
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Jory <rickjory(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: 3M 2216 Epoxy
> . . . used a "3M 2216 Epoxy". Anyone know where to get this?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Plug wires next to other wires? |
Listers,
I'm doing final wiring now and as I do final fwf routing on my EGT, CHT, and
Lasar low voltage wiring harness wires I have routed them (at least for the
time being) alongside spark plug wires in places. Then I started thinking
"hey, I wonder if that pulsing high voltage will bleed over and cause
problems with either my guages or my Lasar brain?". Anyone know if this is
ok, or will lead to problems?
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, final wiring
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: F 635 layout problem |
>
> Hi list,
> I'm working on a 6 QB.I've built up the F635 bellcrank for the elevator
> push/pull tubes and I believe that there is a problem with where it
> mounts on the F629. If I'm reading the plans right, it should mount
> through the horizontal angle in line with the rivets which are spaced
> about 1 1/2" on center and through the (basically) vertical angle on the
> F628. My problem is that when I lay it out, the location of the hole in
> the F629 is only about 9/64" from the center of the last rivet. With a
> 3/16" hole, I'm drilling into the edge of the rivet. Then there is a 3"
> gap where I'm guessing they thought that the bellcrank is supposed to
> mount. On the F628 they left several rivets out at the bottom, but the
> bellcrank layout appears to be between two of the ones they put in and
> clear by about a half inch so that one should be OK. What now?
>
> Ed Holyoke
Guys,
I thought of a solution. Let's see what you think of it. If I rivet or bolt
a piece of angle to the aft side of the semi-vertical angle on the F629, I
can drill through that to mount the bellcrank. This would move the bellcrank
5/8" aft and I would need a longer forward push/pull tube. Would that mess
up the geometry? Also the plans show the length of the forward push/pull to
be 47 1/2". Is that the overall length to the bolt centers or the cut length
of the tubing itself?
Thanks,
Ed Holyoke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Round Head #4 Rivets |
One of the first tough things I remember as a new builder was using the gun
and bucking bar setting 1/8 rivets in the various skeletons. I recall that
one in my tail was tried a few times and got worse each time. A call (cry)
to Vans taught me that I could use a 3/16 bolt with a nylock nut there for
the fix.
Awhile later I bought a computer and got on this RV List that I had been
hearing about. I soon started to catalog neat tips and suggestions. One
thing that caught my attention right away was several people discussing how
to get these round head 1/8 rivets perfect every time. They were talking
about using hockey shin guard tape over the rivet sets on the gun. I
thought, hey that's cool but it must be the same as vinyl electrical tape.
So I tried it but still got the occasional smile next to a rivet. I then
started trying all other different kinds of tape with again the occasional
smile. I just couldn't get why those Listers were so adamant that shin guard
tape is the ultimate solution.
Finally about a year ago I went to Burnaby 8 Rinks and got some of this shin
guard tape. It comes in a massive roll around the same width as electrical
tape. It is enough for about a hundred builders to complete their projects.
It is almost rubbery and stretches evenly when putting on shin guards. It is
much thicker than electrical tape.
I took it home and low and behold I haven't pooched a rivet since. This
stuff is the goods. Perfect rivets every time. Why? I don't know but I do
know that every one should try this stuff. I can't say this enough, it makes
a difference.
Go to your local hockey store and get some, put a small piece on the head of
your gun set, it will never slip again. I change it every 5-10 rivets. Use
your local yellow pages under "sporting goods".
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Where is Drawing 30? |
Jeff,
I found that several drawings were referenced, but not supplied, especially
with the finish kit. They were apparently drawings considered obsolete in
light of improvements in the kits over time. I called Van's and they would
ship the full size drawing to me at no cost upon request. You could also
locate the piece on the preview drawings and call Van's to verify that the
preview is correct.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A bleeding brakes and waiting for spring
-----Original Message-----
Has plan #30 been eliminated from the -6A? I am in the process of
cutting the angle required for the elevator belcrank ribs F 629 and F628.
Plan #33 shows an exploded view of the area where the elevator belcrank fits
with these ribs and points out the angle for them and has the builder refer
to dwg 30. No such drawing in my kit, and the packing list confirms it. I
*do* have it in the preview plans that I purchased in 1996.
In the preview plans, dwg 30 calls out for .063x3/4x3/4 angle. Can
I asume that this is the correct size ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Curt,
I had the same problem, and just recently bought a whole bunch of paper
cups from A/C Spruce. They are NOT waxed and are sold specifically for
this purpose. About $10 for 50 cups if I recall correctly. This system
works great for priming and cleanup is quick and easy.
If you can't find it in their catalog let me know, I can dig up the part
number pretty quickly.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"
From: MKelsonhoffrv9(at)AOL.COM
Subject: Re: RV-List: More on priming
I've been using a cheap gun called a Docken sprayer. I bought it many
years
ago and haven't actually seen it lately. It is merely a pistol grip
device
with a small syphon tube that sits down in a paper cup that you fillwith
paint. The cup attaches to the gun via a c clip about 3" in diameter.
Once
you are done painting you throw away the paper cup and run a little
lacquer
thinner through the gunand you're done. Not much more than putting the
cap
back on the spray can. My biggest problem right now is finding paper
cups.
Everyone has gone to plastic and they dissolve in a heartbeat with
thinners
and epoxy paints. I have actually written to Sweetheart cup co to see
where I
can buy the right size. Now that I have the right formula for thinning
and
pressure I think this is the way to go for easy priming. Not so good for
finish painting. Also. you can't tilt it much or the paint will run out
the
top of the cup.
Curt Hoffman Loveland, OH
RV-9A (N912WK reserved)
Working on Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wood gear leg stiffeners on RV-8A? |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Mark,
Are you talking about not needing the stiffener only in the nose gear, or
also the mains? Did you leave the wood out of the mains and if so, have
you had any shimmy in them at all? Did you balance your wheel pants?
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"
------------------------------------
From: "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wood gear leg stiffeners on RV-8A?
Lister's,
I have 100 hours on my 8A, IO-360 A1A & Hartzell, empty weight 1100lbs. I
spoke with Van's & was advised that I didn't need the stiffeners.
Based on my operating experience, nose wheel shimmy is caused by either
the
nose wheel being under inflated or the nose wheel axle being over
torqued.
Mark Steffensen
8A Dallas, TX
Getting ready for the paint shop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler doors - final answer |
>>We do not have thermostatically controlled valves accessing the oil
>>cooler. Its just an open hose and oil flows through the circuit at all
>>times.
>
>A false statement Andy. The vernatherm is the valve that regulates oil
>to the cooler to maintain oil temps. My O-360 has one and it stuck
>closed, real hi temps then.
Boy, this thread just won't die. :-)
Actually, this lister has found that both statements can be true. When I
found a used O320-E2D for my RV-6A, the oil screen housing did not
have a vernatherm by design. During my early test flights, the oil temps
went way up. We realized the oil wasn't getting to the oil cooler as well
as it should because the oil was flowing back to the sump. With that, I
replaced the housing with one that had a vernatherm installed. The oil
temps immediately went down to normal for that time of year. BTW,
the time of year was winter; so, temps well over 400F should not have
been seen. Without the vernatherm, I saw temps rise to almost 450F
on a 35F day. Not good.
If memory serves me, and it sometimes doesn't do that very well, the
vernatherm expands as it gets hot. When it gets hot enough, it closes
off a hole back to the oil sump and forces the oil to the cooler. Since
the vernatherm is very much like the thermostat in a car cooling system,
there must be huge differences in the temps that we'll see in our
systems. Mine has to have the oil cooler door so that I can warm the
oil because the vernatherm opens the flow to the cooler well below the
180F mark. Others don't. If the vernatherm sticks at the cold position,
the oil can't get to the oil cooler and could possibly heat up the oil to
dangerous levels, even on very cold days. Mine did just that when
there was no vernatherm; so, it stands to reason that a stuck one
would have to do the same thing. As I said, my memory banks may fail
me; but, that's what I experienced.
I did a lot of head scratching before I realized how the vernatherm
controlled things and still may have it wrong. I'm not an expert. :-)
I'm going to archive this note because others may have similar
problems in the future.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler doors - final answer |
I was at the hangar yesterday and I shot a couple pictures of the oil cooler
door, springs on the throttle arm, and gascolator hookup in my RV-6. I will
get them up on my web site this week.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (115 hours)
> Please post a picture of the sliding door when it is built. In my 6A with
> O360A1A I could not use the cabin heat door as a model. Nor could I
figure
> out a way to fashion a sliding door that would effectively block the inlet
> to the cooler. There isn't much room in that area in my plane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike & Lee Anne (mwiebe(at)sympatico.ca)" <mwiebe(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Engine install help |
Listers....
Will you allow a non-RV guy to infiltrate with a couple of pi**-a**ed
questions?
I'm doing the engine install on my 180HP injected Lycoming. First up, a
location for the fuel pressure take off. My bendix injector spider sits
on the right side of the engine, and came plumbed as follows, looking
from the pilots seat forward. The fuel intake is at the 3 o'clock
position, low on the spider body. There are what appears to be 7
identical ports, higher on the body. The four that are plumbed for
lines to the injector are at the roughly 1,5,7 and 11 o'clock
positions. There are two more unused at the 8 and 10 positions, and the
one at the 2 o'clock position came with the pressure tap fitting. My
question is, can I take the pressure tap from the 8 o'clock position
with the same results? I'm presuming that this spider is universal for
a 6 cyl Lyc, plus one for fuel pressure, and that they're pretty much
interchangable amongst the 7 points.
Second question, manifold pressure. Never had one before. I understand
that I take the readings from the primer port on the right rear
cylinder. Question is, what material can I hook up to that 1/8th" AN
fitting? Ultimately, I've got to hook up to some "poly" line into the
cockpit, and if I could go poly all the way it would be simple. But I'm
concerned about the heat at the cylinder. Solution would be some
stainless or copper line for the first few inches like a normal primer
install, but then it gets complicated as I try to tie it to something
solid, while not having a cantilevered end of the solid line vibrating
towards ultimate destruction. Experiences?
Thanks in advance
Mike Wiebe
Sequoia Falco - wiring and plumbing
Planned completion at 3:45 pm - just don't know what day yet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Grover" <grover(at)ev1.net> |
Does anybody know if the Van's factory will be open on Presidents Day,
Monday the 19th?
I will be in town that day and wanted to take a tour of the new factory and
pick up a couple of things.
David Grover
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wood gear leg stiffeners on RV-8A? |
Mark,
I didn't use the wood stiffeners on either the mains or the nose.
I have not had any shimmy on the mains at all to the best of my knowledge.
I corrected nose wheel shimmy by torquing the nose axle bolt to the spec in
the manual, 7-10 ft lbs. & inflating the tires to the correct pressure.
I didn't balance the wheel pants either.
I have found that the tire pressure plays a big part in the low speed shimmy
that I have experienced, I keep my tires at 30-35psi.
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001 4:47 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wood gear leg stiffeners on RV-8A?
>
> Mark,
>
> Are you talking about not needing the stiffener only in the nose gear, or
> also the mains? Did you leave the wood out of the mains and if so, have
> you had any shimmy in them at all? Did you balance your wheel pants?
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"
>
> Lister's,
>
> I have 100 hours on my 8A, IO-360 A1A & Hartzell, empty weight 1100lbs. I
> spoke with Van's & was advised that I didn't need the stiffeners.
>
> Based on my operating experience, nose wheel shimmy is caused by either
> the
> nose wheel being under inflated or the nose wheel axle being over
> torqued.
>
> Mark Steffensen
> 8A Dallas, TX
> Getting ready for the paint shop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | blue vacuum hose |
There is a picture of blue hose on the back of my Wicks catelog.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gary and Carolyn
> Zilik
> Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2001 11:06 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: blue vacuum hose
>
>
>
>
>
> The rapco hose from the pump to regulator is standard automotive
> heater hose.
> The smaller stuff is automotive also. I was jealous when my
> hangar mates kits
> came with the blue hose until I found out is was heater hose. My
> kit came with
> Aeroquip 306.
>
> Gary
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | oil cooler doors - final answer |
So...is it fair to say that those who are fooling with oil cooler doors and
duct tape, etc. are doing so because they do not have a vernatherm installed
or have one that is malfunctioned? I wouldn't know a vernatherm if it bit
me, but if it's a in-line thermostat type thing, like I imagine, that would
seem to be a much better route to go than to little doors and duct tape.
What am I missing? Are vernatherms standard on some/all engines? Should
they be?
Larry Vernatherm
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of KostaLewis
> Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2001 11:59 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: oil cooler doors - final answer
>
>
> Enough speculation. An oil cooler door DOES work well to regulate oil
> >temperatures......
>
> I have a door on the back side of the oil cooler and still have to block
> off the incoming air to the cooler as the weather cools down. I have one
> sized blocking aluminum plate for the oil cooler air intake for mild
> weather and one for cold that stays in place all winter. I leave them off
> if above 70F OAT. The back door seems to work best for keeping
> temperatures
> even in the summer. SO: in my experience the door works and I use
> it often.
> If I was to do it over, I would regulate the air coming INTO the cooler
> rather than air coming OUT of the cooler. My setup, however, works just
> fine for me.
>
> My oil cooler is mounted on a bracket behind #3 cylinder and
> takes air off
> the left rear baffle. The gate is controlled via control cable mounted on
> the left sub instrument panel. 170-180F is the norm, year round.
>
> Michael
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler doors - final answer |
Quick comment: those few who, like myself, have no vernatherm installed, and
have taken the cheap n' easy route of plumbing the remote oil filter in
series with the oil cooler, will see unfiltered oil as long as the vernatherm
is bypassing the cooler circuit. Retaining the oil screen might mitigate
this disadvantage somewhat, as you'd always have that system working on the
larger particles.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP
Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Plug wires next to other wires? |
Randy,
I can tell you that another builder was pulling his hair out trying to
figure out why his RST engine monitor display turned to gibberish a few
minutes after engine start. Since the problem remained after a swap out
with a know good unit, we knew we had other problems. In this case it was
the proximity of some of the EGT, CHT leads with the spark plug and magneto
leads. We provided physical separation, problem solved.
I have dual Light Speed ignitions and the EIS monitor system. I provided
physical separation for all leads.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (systems install)
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001 12:54 AM
Subject: RV-List: Plug wires next to other wires?
Listers,
I'm doing final wiring now and as I do final fwf routing on my EGT, CHT, and
Lasar low voltage wiring harness wires I have routed them (at least for the
time being) alongside spark plug wires in places. Then I started thinking
"hey, I wonder if that pulsing high voltage will bleed over and cause
problems with either my guages or my Lasar brain?". Anyone know if this is
ok, or will lead to problems?
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, final wiring
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Tip up, Roll Bar |
Hi,
I have decided to tap the holes on the rollbar to which the rear canopy
will attach to. I would like to secure those screws to keep them from
vibrating out. Any suggestions? I think Locktite uses cyanacrylate
(SP?) ester, similar to crazyglue. Will the vapors from that craize or
otherwise adversely affect the acrylic window? I was also thinking
about using a latex or silicone caulk. Any suggestions or comments?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
N442E reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Tip up, Roll Bar |
glenn
run your tap all the way through, and use a nylock nut through the hole in
the rear of the roll bar to tighten.
good luck
scott
tampa
rv6a fiberglassing airbox duct
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Wooden Gear Leg Stiffeners - why not? |
Of course the one of the joys and priviledges of homebuilding is to
experiment but...
I have to confess, I don't understand the logic behind leaving out the gear
leg stiffeners in the first place. They are recommended in the manual, they
are easy to do, cheap to do, kind of fun to do (hey, I don't get much of a
chance to do woodworking on an RV), and no one who has done them is
complaining of shimmy. Okay, they do add 2 or 3 pounds.
I mean, if we were talking about spar web stiffeners, no one would be
debating their inclusion. (shudders at the thought). Perhaps the manual
should be a bit more forceful on some of these "optional" construction
details like gear stiffeners. The gear is a part of the secondary structure
of the aircraft and you would think the design deserves to be finalized
after 25 years of production.
Not that I am complaining. Love the airplane, love the List.
Curt
RV-6
gear leg stiffeners installed but untested
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plug wires next to other wires? |
At the last Sun&Fun I attended the Unison forum on LASAR installation. We
got to mount and time mags and do all sorts of neat things that helped me
when it came time to wire my 6A. The technician was asked about running
other wires with the spark plug wires and he said it was not recommended.
However, the Mooney on display in the forum tent had some wires wrapped with
a spark plug lead for a short distance. The tech said it was probably all
right.
The spark plug leads for my LASAR system are shielded so in theory there
should be no coupling of impulses into nearby wires. However, recommended
practice is to segregate the two classes of wires.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 44 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy Lervold <randy@rv-8.com>
aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Sunday, February 18, 2001 12:25 AM
Subject: RV-List: Plug wires next to other wires?
>
>Listers,
>
>I'm doing final wiring now and as I do final fwf routing on my EGT, CHT,
and
>Lasar low voltage wiring harness wires I have routed them (at least for the
>time being) alongside spark plug wires in places. Then I started thinking
>"hey, I wonder if that pulsing high voltage will bleed over and cause
>problems with either my guages or my Lasar brain?". Anyone know if this is
>ok, or will lead to problems?
>
>Thanks,
>Randy Lervold
>RV-8, #80500, final wiring
>www.rv-8.com
>Home Wing VAF
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Tip up, Roll Bar |
>
> glenn
> run your tap all the way through, and use a nylock nut through the hole in
> the rear of the roll bar to tighten.
> good luck
> scott
> tampa
> rv6a fiberglassing airbox duct
>
I don't know that we're talking about the same thing. I am talking about
the front edge of the back window. Not the back edge of the of the tip up
canopy. For me to use a locknut, I would have to be able to get inside the
roll bar.
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Tip up, Roll Bar |
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Tip up, Roll Bar
>
> Hi,
> I have decided to tap the holes on the rollbar to which the rear canopy
> will attach to. I would like to secure those screws to keep them from
> vibrating out. Any suggestions? I think Locktite uses cyanacrylate
> (SP?) ester, similar to crazyglue. Will the vapors from that craize or
> otherwise adversely affect the acrylic window? I was also thinking
> about using a latex or silicone caulk. Any suggestions or comments?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
> N442E reserved
>
Glen,
DON'T use Locktite. There was a report of one individual doing so and
later found cracks radiation form all his canopy screw holes. Don't know
about the caulks.
Ed Anderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wood gear leg stiffeners on RV-8A? |
>I have found that the tire pressure plays a big part in the low speed shimmy
>that I have experienced, I keep my tires at 30-35psi......
I experimented with different tire pressures. (My shimmy is at low
just-before-you-exit-the-runway speed).
To show how variable this is, my WORST shimmy was at 30-35psi, least at
22-26psi. Go figure.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | oil cooler doors - final answer |
>
>So...is it fair to say that those who are fooling with oil cooler doors and
>duct tape, etc. are doing so because they do not have a vernatherm
>installed
>or have one that is malfunctioned? I wouldn't know a vernatherm if it bit
>me, but if it's a in-line thermostat type thing, like I imagine, that would
>seem to be a much better route to go than to little doors and duct tape.
>What am I missing? Are vernatherms standard on some/all engines? Should
>they be?
>
>Larry Vernatherm
>RV-8 fuse
>Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>Web: http://BowenAero.com
Hiya Larry,
Good question indeed. In my experience, the Vernatherm is not a "snap
acting" type of thermal switch, but a device that begins to move at some
temperature and continues to move as it gets hotter. I've personally tested
one by placing it in a vice, and heating slowly with a propane torch. It
did not suddenly move to a position and stay there, it just started creeping
in length until it would not move any further. I'm finding that with my
present spin on oil filter housing with vernatherm, the oil temp will not go
above 140 degrees in the winter unless I mask off at least 1/2 the surface
area of the oil cooler. When this is done, the oil WILL go to 180 degrees
and stay there. So, I reckon there must be SOME amount of oil going to the
cooler at all times. I vaguely recall reading that having a stagnant volume
of oil in an engine lubrication system isn't a good thing, so maybe Lycoming
designed the valve to always allow at least SOME amount of oil to make it to
the cooler just to keep the oil moving.
Just my WAG at it.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
176 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wooden Gear Leg Stiffeners - why not? |
In the words of the great Van's technical manual: "Shimmy is a nebulous
thing".
Logic:
1) Van's told me to try it without the stiffeners and see how I like it -- I
did and I like it.
2) It saves time and weight not to install stiffeners
3) One function of the gear is to absorb the shocks of landing -- it does
this better w/o stiffeners.
4) Hearsay: Nose gear leg breakage has been attributed, among other things,
to stiffeners.
In general automotive, motorcycle and, I think, aeronautical terms, a shimmy
is a side-to-side oscillation of a wheel, usually fixed frequency -- a kind
of mechanical resonance. It is usually considered objectionable because it
diminishes steering authority and the oscillations can be felt though the
frame of the vehicle. In some cases it is divergent in amplitude -- the
"speed wobble" sometimes found in older bikes without adequate steering
dampers.
In the case of my 6A, the gear legs do flex during take off and landings.
I think this is their purpose in life. I can't perceive this flexure in the
cockpit except for grass takeoffs/landings. Others have observed the motion.
However, I can not feel any "shimmy" and the directional control of the
plane is positive. I maintain precise directional control with rudder only
at speeds above about 7 knots, taxiing included. The only time I use the
brakes is during runup and sharp turns while parking. I use about 1500-2000
feet of total runway, after which the speed has decayed to a speed at which
I can make a turnoff without brakes. I do land pretty hot -- about 65 KIAS
over the threshold. This is with a constant speed prop -- it would not be
possible with a fixed pitch prop.
Scott McDaniels: How about a word from you on the gear stiffener issue?
Does the demo 6A have stiffeners? We listers clearly need some advice from
the experts!
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 44 hours and 118 shimmy-free landings
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Curt Reimer <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sunday, February 18, 2001 10:22 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wooden Gear Leg Stiffeners - why not?
>
>Of course the one of the joys and priviledges of homebuilding is to
>experiment but...
>
>I have to confess, I don't understand the logic behind leaving out the gear
>leg stiffeners in the first place. They are recommended in the manual, they
>are easy to do, cheap to do, kind of fun to do (hey, I don't get much of a
>chance to do woodworking on an RV), and no one who has done them is
>complaining of shimmy. Okay, they do add 2 or 3 pounds.
>
>I mean, if we were talking about spar web stiffeners, no one would be
>debating their inclusion. (shudders at the thought). Perhaps the manual
>should be a bit more forceful on some of these "optional" construction
>details like gear stiffeners. The gear is a part of the secondary structure
>of the aircraft and you would think the design deserves to be finalized
>after 25 years of production.
>
>Not that I am complaining. Love the airplane, love the List.
>
>Curt
>RV-6
>gear leg stiffeners installed but untested
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rscott(at)involved.com (Richard Scott) |
| Subject: | Help needed in Tigard, OR area! |
Oregon Listers,
I will be checking out a partially completed tail kit tomorrow afternoon,
Monday 2/19. Not having built a plane before I don't know much about
checking the workmanship of the work that has been done and am looking for
an experienced builder who could check it out with me. Location is near
Tigard Costco & time is 1:15.
Please call me if you can help.
Thanks.
Dick Scott
503-630-4739
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Tip up, Roll Bar |
Loctite definitely destroys Lexan. (embrittles and cracks) Don't know for sure
it's effect on
Acrylic. Use caution !
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | fw from the canard list |
[The Canard Aviators's Mailing list]
A separate regulator is desired when the battery and the regulator are in
different locations. The charging voltage required by the battery lowers as
its temperature increases. In automobiles, the battery and the alternator
are usually in the same temperature environment, ie, the engine compartment,
hence no problem with the regulator being located in the alternator.
However in my RV-6A and the VariEze, the battery is in the cabin, and that
is where the regulator should be. The regulator is temperature-compensated
for the varying requirements of the battery.
If you have an alternator with an internal regulator when the battery is in
the cabin, the battery will be undercharging by about .5 volt. This could
leave your battery in a low state of charge at any given time. This would
probably show up when starting on a cold morning. You can reduce this
problem somewhat by ducting outside air to the alternator to keep its
temperature down, but you don't have any control over this. It's better
just to put the regulator near the battery.
Garth Shearing
VariEze and 75% RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Tip up, Roll Bar |
I have seen several RV's with screws going into tapped holes. A local
professional builder assembles tip ups this way. I did the same on mine,
but have not flown. Use SS screws that you can get a good bite on with a
screw driver and get it screwed in tight, and I don't think you will have a
problem. I can get mine pretty tight. So tight as it scares me to try to
unscrew them, in fear of slipping and hurting canopy #2.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001 8:00 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Tip up, Roll Bar
>
> Hi,
> I have decided to tap the holes on the rollbar to which the rear canopy
> will attach to. I would like to secure those screws to keep them from
> vibrating out. Any suggestions? I think Locktite uses cyanacrylate
> (SP?) ester, similar to crazyglue. Will the vapors from that craize or
> otherwise adversely affect the acrylic window? I was also thinking
> about using a latex or silicone caulk. Any suggestions or comments?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
> N442E reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More on priming |
I bought a touch up sprayer from Harbor Freight (advertised at $19.99,
frequently less.) It works great for priming, easy to use, and cleans up
quickly and easily. You can tilt the sprayer nearly horizontal without
spilling anything. It uses regular compressor air and I usually keep the
pressure around 30 psi. I have used it with Sherman Williams Wash Primer
for interior areas, and with DuPont Co-Lar Sandable primer on external skins.
Charlie Brame
6AQB, Canopy
San Antonio
--------------------------------------------------
> From: Kelsonhoffrv9(at)AOL.COM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: More on priming
>
>
> I've been using a cheap gun called a Docken sprayer. I bought it many years
> ago and haven't actually seen it lately. It is merely a pistol grip device
> with a small syphon tube that sits down in a paper cup that you fillwith
> paint. The cup attaches to the gun via a c clip about 3" in diameter. Once
> you are done painting you throw away the paper cup and run a little lacquer
> thinner through the gunand you're done. Not much more than putting the cap
> back on the spray can. My biggest problem right now is finding paper cups.
> Everyone has gone to plastic and they dissolve in a heartbeat with thinners
> and epoxy paints. I have actually written to Sweetheart cup co to see where I
> can buy the right size. Now that I have the right formula for thinning and
> pressure I think this is the way to go for easy priming. Not so good for
> finish painting. Also. you can't tilt it much or the paint will run out the
> top of the cup.
>
> Curt Hoffman Loveland, OH
> RV-9A (N912WK reserved)
> Working on Wing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler doors - final answer |
Uh, Oh. Jerry Springer caught me when I made a misleading
statement about temps. My oil temp was not 450F. The cylinder
temps were. Hey, it was written well before many of you wake up;
so, forgive me. Here is another pass at it with the corrected info.
Sorry about that. Thanks for catching that, Jerry!
BTW, I went flying today and got the oil to almost 180F using the
door. Without it, I couldn't get it there. The temps were below 30F.
Thank goodness for the new EZ-heat I installed recently. Nice to
start with warmed oil.
Jim in KY
>>We do not have thermostatically controlled valves accessing the
>>oil cooler. Its just an open hose and oil flows through the circuit at
>>all imes.
>
>A false statement Andy. The vernatherm is the valve that regulates
>oil to the cooler to maintain oil temps. My O-360 has one and it
>stuck closed, real hi temps then.
Boy, this thread just won't die. :-)
Actually, this lister has found that both statements can be true.
When I found a used O320-E2D for my RV-6A, the oil screen
housing did not have a vernatherm by design. During my early test
flights, the oil temps went way up. We realized the oil wasn't getting
to the oil cooler as well as it should because the oil was flowing back
to the sump. With that, I replaced the housing with one that had a
vernatherm installed. The oil temps immediately went down to normal
for that time of year. BTW, the time of year was winter; so, oil temps
well over 200F should not have been seen. Without the vernatherm,
I saw oil temps rise to over 225F on a 35F day. Not good.
If memory serves me, and it sometimes doesn't do that very well, the
vernatherm expands as it gets hot. When it gets hot enough, it
closes off a hole back to the oil sump and forces the oil to the cooler.
Since the vernatherm is very much like the thermostat in a car
cooling system, there must be huge differences in the temps that we'll
see in our systems. Mine has to have the oil cooler door so that I
can warm the oil because the vernatherm opens the flow to the
cooler well below the 180F mark. Others don't. If the vernatherm
sticks at the cold position, the oil can't get to the oil cooler and could
possibly heat up the oil to dangerous levels, even on very cold days.
Mine did just that when there was no vernatherm; so, it stands to
reason that a stuck one would have to do the same thing. As I said,
my memory banks may fail me; but, that's what I experienced.
I did a lot of head scratching before I realized how the vernatherm
controlled things and still may have it wrong. I'm not an expert. :-)
I'm going to archive this note because others may have similar
problems in the future.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: F 635 layout problem |
In a message dated 2/17/01 10:25:59 PM Pacific Standard Time,
bicyclop(at)pacbell.net writes:
<< s that the overall length to the bolt centers or the cut length of the
tubing itself? >>
There was a long thread on this subject awhile back. Check the archives, but
what I did in the end was to haul out my trust tape measure and make sure for
my installation that I was cutting the tubes to the correct length. I
recommend that.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | F 635 layout problem |
Ed,
I went out and looked at my setup. I have no rivets near the holes. In
fact the holes for mounting the bellcrank appear evenly spaced between
the existing rivets on both the F628 and the F629 angles.
I'd double check where you are laying out your holes. The plans didn't
give dimensions as to where the holes should be, just the drawing. I
remember some consternation while figuring out exactly where to locate
the holes.
If the rivet spacing is screwed up on your F629, it wouldn't be the
first error found on a QB.
Charlie Brame
6AQB, Canopy
San Antonio
------------------------------------
> From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
> Subject: RV-List: F 635 layout problem
>
>
> Hi list,
> I'm working on a 6 QB.I've built up the F635 bellcrank for the elevator
> push/pull tubes and I believe that there is a problem with where it
> mounts on the F629. If I'm reading the plans right, it should mount
> through the horizontal angle in line with the rivets which are spaced
> about 1 1/2" on center and through the (basically) vertical angle on the
> F628. My problem is that when I lay it out, the location of the hole in
> the F629 is only about 9/64" from the center of the last rivet. With a
> 3/16" hole, I'm drilling into the edge of the rivet. Then there is a 3"
> gap where I'm guessing they thought that the bellcrank is supposed to
> mount. On the F628 they left several rivets out at the bottom, but the
> bellcrank layout appears to be between two of the ones they put in and
> clear by about a half inch so that one should be OK. What now?
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vibrations (floor stiffners) |
Bernie
The prints show the stiffners attached to the spar I
believe its second from the outboard on each side.
This is part of the structural integrity for this
area. (very easy to overlook on the print)without it
the only thing holding the floor to the fuselage are
the rivets at rear of floor. In addition I also
anchored my fuel selector gage bracket to the floor
stiffner but dont believe this is required. With my
200lbs pushing down on the floor exiting the cockpit I
think These attach points help. BTW thanks for the
picture on the lowered fuel valve, just completed mine
and works fine.
RV6A 135hrs still smiling
--- BERNIE KERR wrote:
>
>
> Joe,
>
> this is the same question you ask me when I sent you
> the picture of my
> lowered fuel valve. Is there a message associated
> with this question? My
> stiffners are not fastened to the spar. I spoke to
> Ken Green about this and
> he did not think it necessary.
>
> Bernie, 6A, no gear vibrations yet at 85 hours , SE
> Fla
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "joe wiza" <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 7:15 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: vibrations
>
>
>
> >
> > are your floor stiffners anchored to the spar.
> >
> >
> > RV6A 135 hrs
> >
> >
> > --- Andy wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I've been starting to pick up some vibrations in
> my
> > > 6A. Its not that noticeable
> > > yet, but I can feel an increased overall
> roughness.
> > > I can also definitely feel
> > > it if I touch the panel, as do the instruments,
> as
> > > the altimeter needle is
> > > starting to bounce around. My mag checks are
> good
> > > and my 4 egts appear normal
> > > within less than 100 degrees of each other.
> > >
> > > I suspect that my 4 1/2 year old wood prop is
> > > starting to go out of balance,
> > > mostly because when we used to have these
> problems
> > > with ultralights, a good prop
> > > balance job or a new prop would typically make
> it go
> > > away. Then, when I
> > > switched to Composite props which stay in
> balance,
> > > the periodic vibration
> > > problems never returned.
> > >
> > > Any comments? Is re-balancing of wood props
> > > considered standard maintenance
> > > every 4-5 years?
> > >
> > > Andy
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > through
> > >
> > > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> > >
> > > Matronics!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PLTDBEEZER(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Tip up, Roll Bar |
Glenn
I used some silicone sealent and they on the threads and screw head and
its hanging in there.
Dave Beizer
Rv6A 80 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler doors solve a symptom not the problem |
On 17 Feb 2001, at 18:24, bcbraem(at)home.com wrote:
> For those following this thread, the last two posts by Jerry Springer
> and Bruce Gray bring up a very serious potential problem for RV
> owner/operators: it appears that very few of our current or future
> "certificated repairman" have never (sic) seen the inside of the Lycoming
> Engine Operator's Manual, the Overhaul Manual or the Parts Catalog
Hmmm. That sounds like "you don't agree with my conclusion,
therefore you didn't do your homework." It's an interesting argument,
but it's only true if you are infallible. Unlikely.
> If you look at the
> Lubrication diagrams in the Overhaul Manual (2-3, 2-4) it is obvious
> that a vernatherm valve between the oil pump and the oil cooler
> (items#1 & 2) in the oil flow journey would allow the the oil temp to
> reach 180 deg. F before the oil was diverted to the oil cooler.
Wow, what a great idea. You should write Lycoming and tell them to
redesign the engine so it is configured as you describe, then it would
work the way YOU think it should.
Here in the real world where the rest of us live, the oil cooler bypass
valve is NOT located "between the oil pump and the oil cooler".
Instead, Figure 2-3 on page 2-2 of the (current) Lycoming overhaul
manual shows that the oil cooler bypass valve is in fact installed in a
path between the input and the output connections leading to the oil
cooler (in other words, the bypass valve is in parallel with the oil
cooler). By the way, Bob Ohnmeiss (Lycoming tech support) told me
that the vernatherm (oil cooler bypass valve) is installed stock on the
O-360 A1A as shipped from Van's. The vernatherm ("Valve
Assembly, Temp control oil cooler bypass", Lycoming part number
75944) is part number 44 on figure 15, page 2-10 of the O-360-A series
parts catalog. Bob told me that even though the parts catalog doesn't
show it, part 44 is installed into the bottom of part 29, the Oil Filter
Base Assembly.
>This
> is an inexpensive part that is very simple to install, BUT it has to
> be on the engine to work. You can use this neat device called a
> telephone to order these manuals from Lycoming or call/email Andy at
> Builders' Bookstore (Yeller Pages). The same device will get you the
> vernatherm from Lycoming or maybe your local FBO.
Or, you could do a little research and discover that the part is
probably already installed (and doesn't work the way Boyd thinks it
should anyway), and not waste your money buying a duplicate part.
> It's incomprehensible to me how people can spend thousands of dollars
> and hours on a project and not be able to fork over $50-60 for the
> material that will actually save their bacon, while they page thru a
> POH (downloaded from the 'Net) compiled by somebody else and probably
> has a totally different engine and engine controls/devices.
Senseless rant. Not germane to the topic.
> Boyd Braem
> N600SS
> flame away--at least it will increase your chances of staying alive
False. But correcting disinformation may help people understand the
way the engine really works.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | oil cooler doors - final answer |
On 18 Feb 2001, at 8:56, Larry Bowen wrote:
>
> So...is it fair to say that those who are fooling with oil cooler
> doors and duct tape, etc. are doing so because they do not have a
> vernatherm installed or have one that is malfunctioned?
No.
> I wouldn't
> know a vernatherm if it bit me, but if it's a in-line thermostat type
> thing, like I imagine, that would seem to be a much better route to go
> than to little doors and duct tape. What am I missing?
The vernatherm is in *parallel* with the oil cooler, not in *series* with
it. The vernatherm does not shut off the flow of oil to the oil cooler, it
provides an alternate path circumventing (somewhat) oil flow through
the oil cooler if the oil is already too cold.
When the oil is too hot, the vernatherm restricts the circumventing
path, forcing more of the oil through the oil cooler.
>Are
> vernatherms standard on some/all engines?
I understand that they are standard on the O-360 A1A as shipped
from Van's. I've not researched other configurations.
> Larry Vernatherm
> RV-8 fuse
> Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> Web: http://BowenAero.com
Tim Vernatherm
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | warren gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gretz Pitot Questions... |
The solder with silver in it is available from Radio Shack. It is stock number
64-013 and is 1.5 oz.. It is .022 diameter. On the label it says it is silver
bearing. It will be anything from 1-3% silver.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Quick question for ya folks...Im installing the gretz aero AN5812 heated
> pitot tube (with mount extension) and have a couple questions.
>
> 1. Is says what spec wire to use, but what is the consensus on the
> gauge that everyone has been using?
>
> 2. It also says to use "lead-silver solder, Federal Spec
> QQ-S-571"....cant seem to find much info on this in the catalogs I have....
>
> Thanks as always for the help!!!!
>
> Kurt, OKC, OK
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
Well fellas, the events of yesterday should require an update...IT'S
ALIVE! Yes, I started the dormant engine for the first time after
having it for over 2 painful years...can't believe it took me that long
to start the damn thing! I have a Jeff Rose ignition, and come to find
out, the ignition was the only thing running it..I had trouble with my
left mag...the only other problems were a bad oil temperature xducer,
and no ammeter readout...other than that, she fired right up, and ran
very smooth, considering it was running on one set of plugs. I
pre-oiled the engine with an insecticide sprayer turned into pressure
oiler, and all was great....really helps in the motivational category!
Hope to have her flying before it gets hot here..
Hope all is doing well...keep us updated on progress...
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted French" <ted_french(at)canada.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Outboard Wing Rib.. |
Another reason not to do this is that the FG wing tip mounts to the 1/2" or
so of skin that overlaps the tip rib. The wing tip has an indentation
moulded into it that is about the thickness of the wing skin. The skin would
sit way above the wing tip surface if the root rib were reversed.
Ted French
Prince George BC
----- Original Message -----
From: <ENewton57(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2001 4:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Outboard Wing Rib..
>
> In a message dated 2/17/01 2:27:26 PM Central Standard Time,
KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM
> writes:
>
> << Am in the process of finishing a QB wing and the plans seem to show
that
> the flange of the most outboard rib is to the inside of the wing.
(making
> riveting very difficult). Is there any problem with switching the left
and
> right outboard ribs so that the flange is to the outboard side to make
> riveting easier?? Hate to deviate from the plans...but....
> >>
>
> Hi Kurt,
> I'm not familiar with the RV-8 but on the RV6 the outboard aileron bracket
is
> "L" shaped and fits with one leg of the "L" on the rear spar and the other
> leg of the "L" is flush against the outboard rib web. If you were to
reverse
> it, the aileron bracket would no longer sit flush against the outboard
rib.
> It may be different on the 8 so check it out.
> Good luck,
>
> Eric Newton Long Beach, MS,
> RV-6A N57ME (reserved) (canopy done -finish kit)
> http://www.ericsrv6a.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine install help |
Mike,
The pressure tap on the distribution spider is not for fuel pressure-it's
for a fuel flow guage (actually a pressure guage that's calibrated in GPH)
Your fuel pressure line should be taken from the downstream side of the
engine driven pump or at the inlet to the bendix.
For your MAP line, use automotive fuel hose of the appropriate size.
Regards, Bill RV-8 N48WD
----- Original Message -----
From: <mwiebe(at)sympatico.ca>
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001 7:40 AM
Subject: RV-List: Engine install help
>
> Listers....
>
> Will you allow a non-RV guy to infiltrate with a couple of pi**-a**ed
> questions?
>
> I'm doing the engine install on my 180HP injected Lycoming. First up, a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Oil Cooler Doors Techniques |
Listers:
I have decided to get off my rear and add something to the list. It
will be a techniques web site, with good photos and always following the
list interests. The first is the subjuct of Oil cooler doors. I
suggest an Oil Cooler Air Controller. See the following web site for a
preliminary look at what I suggest. This is for an RV4 but could easily
be adapted to others. http://www.solanopilots.com/new_page_8.htm
Good Building
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504 RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: blue vacuum hose |
Sacramento Sky Ranch has the exact stuff.
PN 50-038 Silicone Hose 3/8" $2.70/ft
Ask for Ray
916-421-7672
>Anyone know if Rapco will sell only the blue hose or perhaps know of a
>source for the blue hose? I'm using Sigma Tek pump, but would like to use
>the blue hose.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Beveling skins-pre punched 6 |
I am skinning first wing. Directions direct to bevel the inboard and outboard
skin corners on the bottom of the wing. Two questions: 1. How does one bevel
a skin edge? 2. Is it implied that I must bevel both the bottom and top of
the wing where the inboard and outboard skins overlap? Thanks, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Tip up, Roll Bar |
Hi Glenn
If you use any substance that has cyanoacrylate as a componant, it will not
craze or crack the plastic canopy, but you will get very nice white
fingerprints where ever anyone has touched the inside of the canopy.
Crazy Glue, or a cyanoacrylate compound special formulated for the purpose,
is use by crime scene examiners to process plastic exhibits for
fingerprints. Nothing works better.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
(RCMP crime scene examiner in my day job)
>
> Hi,
> I have decided to tap the holes on the rollbar to which the rear canopy
> will attach to. I would like to secure those screws to keep them from
> vibrating out. Any suggestions? I think Locktite uses cyanacrylate
> (SP?) ester, similar to crazyglue. Will the vapors from that craize or
> otherwise adversely affect the acrylic window? I was also thinking
> about using a latex or silicone caulk. Any suggestions or comments?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
> N442E reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Beveling skins-pre punched 6 |
In a message dated 2/18/01 9:39:39 PM Central Standard Time, Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< I am skinning first wing. Directions direct to bevel the inboard and
outboard
skin corners on the bottom of the wing. Two questions: 1. How does one
bevel
a skin edge? 2. Is it implied that I must bevel both the bottom and top of
the wing where the inboard and outboard skins overlap? Thanks, Bob >>
Bob,
Only bevel the corner where the two skins meet right behind the tank skin on
the spar flange. This is only about a 2" square area. Don't bevel the skins
full length or it could weaken the splice. The goal is to make the area
where the skins overlap each other and rest on the main spar, to be at the
same level as the tank skins. I beveled them by filing the skin thinner. I
placed the skin on my workbench so the corner to be filed was in the corner
of my workbench. Then using a file, I filed the skin in that corner only,
down to where it was about as thin as the aileron skin. Then when the two
are overlapped together, they lay flat and level with the tank skins.
Yes, you do the top of the wing the same way.
Hope this helps - its hard to explain
and even harder to photograph.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (canopy done - landing gear is next)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler doors solve a symptom not the problem |
> it is obvious that a vernatherm valve between the oil pump and the oil
> cooler (items#1 & 2) in the oil flow journey would allow the the oil
> temp to reach 180 deg. F before the oil was diverted to the oil cooler.
> This is an inexpensive part that is very simple to install, BUT it has
> to be on the engine to work.
Well, that's what I used to think, but I DO have a Vernatherm AND too cool
oil temps. I was stumped as to why blocking the door would help but it did.
Eventually someone explained to me how the two paths are parellel (as
someone else just did on the list so I won't go over that again.) At any
rate adding a door did help on my plane.
> It's incomprehensible to me how people can spend thousands of dollars
> and hours on a project and not be able to fork over $50-60 for the
> material that will actually save their bacon, while they page thru a POH
> (downloaded from the 'Net) compiled by somebody else and probably has a
> totally different engine and engine controls/devices.
Agreed. Although it kind of irks me that even if you pay the big $$$ for a
brand new engine you still have to fork out that $50-60 for $4 or so worth
of photocopied material (but yes, I did).
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | warren gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for Edwin L. French |
If anyone knows how to contact Edwin L. French please tell me or contact
him to tell him I am trying to contact him.
He ordered parts from me and did not give me a address, phone number, or
e-mail address.
Thanks.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
303-770-3811
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: C/S spinner fit |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: C/S Spinner Fit
If you're polling the audience I vote for #2 but I will add that I have
no
experience in this area.......Norman.....
> We have a small problem (I hope) with the fit of our spinner.
>
> We are finishing up fitting the spinner and have drilled the front and
read
> bulkhead holes and while making sure there was enough of an opening for
the
> blades to twist we noticed that the blades were contacting and slightly
> flexing the rear bulkhead.
>
> A call to Van's resulted in don't worry about it - less than a perfered
> answer. Of course we should have thought to check this in the beginning
-
> But.
>
> We've fitted the cowl and have a good 1/4" clearance the bulkhead.
>
> As we see it we have three options: (Would appreciate additional ones)
>
> 1. Cut out the center of the front bulkhead and rivet in a 1/8" spacer
plate
> to shift the spinner 1/8" closer to the cowl. This will allow us to add
a
> couple washers - giving clearence between the prop blades and and the
rear
> bulkhead in flat pitch and retain 1/8' clearence between the rear
> bulkhead?rear of spinner and the cowl.
>
> 2. Cut out or relieve the small area on the rear bulk head that is in
> contact with the prop. Not sure sure how. This retains the 1/4"
clearence
> between the rear bulkhead & and cowl.
>
> 3. Follow Van's advice and forget about the fact that our C/S prop
contacts
> the rear bulkhead and flexes it.
>
> We are leaning toward option # 1, but would appreciate any
> commments/suggestions.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
> RV-8A (having fun with F/G)
> Niantic, CT
>
Chuck and Dave,
If it were me I would use option 4 (assuming you choose to not just leave
it).
The bulkheads are made with a softer aluminum that what the rest of the
airplane is so it allows for some adjustment.
First add spacer washers on the rear bulkhead to get the clearance you
want, but I recommend that you don't get the spinner bulkhead to cowl gap
any smaller than 1/8".
Now using you hands you can slightly "dish" the shape of the fwd bulkhead
so that the flange moves aft by the amount that you moved the aft
bulkhead.
This is most easily done with the prop mounted on the engine. Using your
hands, lightly lean/push on the outer edges of the fwd bulkhead. Keep
moving your hands so that you work your way around it's entire diam.
Keep checking with the spinner.Do just a little at a time until you get
all of the holes to once again line up.
Scott McDaniels
Aurora, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wood gear leg stiffeners on RV-8A? |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
Subject: RE: RV-List: Wood gear leg stiffeners on RV-8A?
Mike,
The gear arrangement on the 8A is very similar to the 6A. Van
does
recommend using the wood stiffeners on the 8A.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
I think the company position on use of stiffeners for all models is to
install them if you find that your particular airplane has a need for
them.
The only airplane at Van's that has them is the RV-6 used by Mike for
transition training and possibly the RV-4 (can't remember).
The Blue RV-6A (N666RV), The RV-8A (N58VA), and the RV-9A (N129RV), do
not have them installed.
Scott McDaniels
Aurora, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler doors solve a symptom not the problem |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
From: bcbraem(at)home.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: oil cooler doors solve a symptom not the problem
For those following this thread, the last two posts by Jerry Springer
and Bruce Gray bring up a very serious potential problem for RV
owner/operators: it appears that very few of our current or future
"certificated repairman" have never seen the inside of the Lycoming
Engine Operator's Manual, the Overhaul Manual or the Parts Catalog
(Mazda and Chevy guys are off the hook, for now.. If
you look at the Lubrication diagrams in the Overhaul Manual (2-3, 2-4)
it is obvious that a vernatherm valve between the oil pump and the oil
cooler (items#1 & 2) in the oil flow journey would allow the the oil
temp to reach 180 deg. F before the oil was diverted to the oil cooler.
This is an inexpensive part that is very simple to install, BUT it has
to be on the engine to work. You can use this neat device called a
telephone to order these manuals from Lycoming or call/email Andy at
Builders' Bookstore (Yeller Pages). The same device will get you the
vernatherm from Lycoming or maybe your local FBO.
It's incomprehensible to me how people can spend thousands of dollars
and hours on a project and not be able to fork over $50-60 for the
material that will actually save their bacon, while they page thru a POH
(downloaded from the 'Net) compiled by somebody else and probably has a
totally different engine and engine controls/devices.
Boyd Braem
N600SS
flame away--at least it will increase your chances of staying alive
Boyd,
This is not at all meant as a flame but just to point out that it is much
more complicated than you imply.
I am very familiar with the schematic in the Lycoming overhaul man. I
am also familiar with the fact that it doesn't tell the whole story.
If you ever sit down with just an accessory case cover and look at were
oil passages go you can finally get a good idea about what is going on.
Now it has been a while since I did this my self so every thing that
follows is from memory (meaning I could be totally wrong) but I think it
is pretty close.
First of all most Lycomings that RV builders are using probably have a
vernatherm installed (unless they are really old).
Some may have a washable filter screen and many probably have a spin on
filter adapter but either one of these can and probably are using a
vernatherm.
One of the big misunderstandings about the vernatherm is how it directs
oil to the cooler (Lots of stuff in the archives about this. Some by me,
and some by others). When the engine oil gets up to a temp matching the
value of the vernatherm that is installed the vernatherm grows in length
an closes off a by pass path. If you are using a spin on adapter this
also closes the bypass for the oil filter (thick cold oil doesn't like to
flow through a paper filter element very well).
What this means is that there are two paths for the oil when it is cold
(through the filter and cooler or through the by pass path that allows it
to flow around it. When the vernatherm elongates and entirely closes off
(assuming the seat surface and the end of the vernatherm are in good
shape) the bypass, forcing all of the oil to go through the filter and
the cooler.
Here is the problem... when the oil gets somewhat warmed up (say 120 deg
F.) it is warm enough to flow through the filter, but the temp is not
high enough for the vernatherm to do any regulating yet.
Since the cooler is mounted in the warm engine compartment, maybe even
directly attached to the baffles which get heated up by the engine cyl.,
it gets warmed enough to warm the oil in the cooler and the lines. This
in turn means that there is now much less resistance to oil flowing in
the cooler circuit, even though it has a by pass path to flow through
since the vernatherm has not yet closed the bypass path.
More simply...a vernatherm does NOT keep the path to the cooler closed
until the oil warms up.
What it does do is close the path which allows the oil to not flow
through the cooler.
If you want to test for your self... run your engine on a cold day, just
long enough to get the oil temp. up to about 120 deg. Then disconnect
the oil hose that returns to your engine from your cooler.
Put a cap on the open fitting on the engine. Now start the engine and
run it for about 5 seconds.
I think you will have a big mess to clean up (but maybe I'm wrong).
The main problem is that until you can get near the vernatherm temp, you
have two paths for the oil.
The oil will tend to take the path of least resistance but not all of
goes that way.
Because every RV (and engine) is a little different sometimes this little
bit of residual cooling is just enough to keep the temp from ever getting
high enough for the vernatherm to do its regulating job.
Devising a means to variably block air into the cooler seems to work well
for alleviating the problem though I highly recommend that you not do
anything to deal with the problem until you are flying and you find out
that you really have a problem (many builders do not, as attested to here
on the list), and then only after you verify every other possibility
(gage error, etc.).
Scott McDaniels
Aurora, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler door |
"rv-list(at)matronics.com"
Tom:
Hey, relax..... I think that you have really lost the whole concept of
the terms "custom built" and even experimental. It is given that
everything we do is with the intention to do something a bit more
refined or better. We all strive to do our best, I am sure you even
tried a few things that the plans didn't specify on your RV3. (maybe
not) At any rate I agree that I may know absolutely little but I
disagree that sharing ideas is detremental or a disservice. I guess we
can let all the listers decide. Have a great day
Dave Aronson
RV4 Still in the process of getting built, sorry I am so unworthy!!!!!
Thomas McIntyre wrote:
>
> Dave
> You've got the concept correct but the materials and proposed way of
> forming are failure prone. Listing material thikness and construction
> photos without first in-flight testing them is doing a disservice to
> the list and its eager readers.
> Tom
> RV3 1700+ PROVEN hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beveling skins-pre punched 6 |
Bob,
Check the archives for a procedure that I used and worked great. I can't
remember the poster's name, but there was a thread I started sometime around
the end of the year regarding this very topic. One of the replies was to
cut a small square out of the inboard skin (that's the one that lies under
the outboard skin per plans). The inside of this square is even with the
outboard skin, so they lie flush together on the spar.
The original post even contains a diagram. Works great! Looks great!
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A, Wings
>From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Beveling skins-pre punched 6
>Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 22:36:07 EST
>
>
>I am skinning first wing. Directions direct to bevel the inboard and
>outboard
>skin corners on the bottom of the wing. Two questions: 1. How does one
>bevel
>a skin edge? 2. Is it implied that I must bevel both the bottom and top of
>the wing where the inboard and outboard skins overlap? Thanks, Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beveling skins-pre punched 6 |
--- Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> I am skinning first wing. Directions direct to bevel the inboard and
> outboard
> skin corners on the bottom of the wing. Two questions: 1. How does
> one bevel
> a skin edge? 2. Is it implied that I must bevel both the bottom and
> top of
> the wing where the inboard and outboard skins overlap? Thanks, Bob
I offer my posted reply to a similar question back in December 2000:
"e
I tried both methods of getting a single layer where the skins meet. I
tried overlapping them - I used my finishing palm sander; I think a
belt sander might be too aggressive.
The joint was not very good even though I started thinning some
distance from the actual overlap area.
On the bottoms, I figured few would get on their backs and look at that
joint, so I trimmed them to a butt joint (notched one side). You know
what? That was a better looking joint and truly _was_ a single layer
thick. I was so impressed that I did my other top skins the same way,
and I recommend it.
Cut your notch and trim a bit at a time, and then use a scotchbrite
wheel on the die grinder to finish. You can get the joint so it is
barely noticeable.
"e
If you check the archives (use the word "chamfer" as well as "bevel")
you will get a lot of hits and some more view points.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Panel
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming on Vernitherms |
The following are questions I asked Lycoming regarding Vernitherm operation and
oil temps. My questions are in lower case. The answers are in upper case:
my 0-360 A4M installed in an RV-6A, has very low oil temps (just over 140,
even in long climbs). I have been advised that the vernitherm may be stuck in
the open position thus allowing oil into the cooler, even when it does not need
to be. because I am unfamiliar with this part please answer these questions.
THE VERNITHERM IS ALWAYS OPEN, UNTIL THE TEMP GETS TO HOT!!!
1] is this a likely scenario?
NO!
2] Is the vernitherm adjustable or will it simply need replacement? If
adjustable, how?
NO!
3] I was also advised that there is an AD on this part. If so, where can I
find a copy?
THE FAA.
4] Another person suggested that the vernitherm also restricts or adjusts oil
flow into the screw on oil filter. Is this true?
NO.
An alternative or additional step might be to construct a cabin adjustable
door to open and close air intake into the oil cooler; Your comments on this?
THE VERNITHERM ONLY CONTROLS MAX OIL TEMP. IT HAS
NOTHING TO DO WITH LOW TEMPS. THE AIRFRAME CONTROLS THE LOW TEMPS.
JAMES MATTHEWS
TECH REP
TEXTRON LYCOMING
Also, I've been looking for a copy of the relevent AD. The FAAs on-line search
engine is not working. Does anybody know where else a copy of this can be
obtained, or maybe you have one and can post it or fax it to me? 970-887-2197
Thanks,
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Greg Tanner wrote:
> Just mounted my elevators on to my HS and moved them up and down. >Man am
I jazzed to get further. Looks so cool!
You think you are jazzed now, think how it will be when you move the
elevators and the horizon falls away!
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Browne" <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Pneumatic Squeezer/C-Frame for Sale |
Pneumatic Squeezer with 2.5" flange nose yoke and 2.5" thin nose yoke.
Also includes adjustable set holder. $652.00 new, first $550.00 gets
it.
C-Frame Tool, $129.00 new, will take $75.
Chris Browne
w 770 497 8818
h 770 887 5642
exRV-6A Builder, Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Scott R McDaniels' Assistance |
Scott has recently cleared up a number of ongoing questions for the RV-List.
He is a great asset to the list and to Van's. We appreciate the donation of
your knowledge and personal time to the list, Scott. From all of us,
thanks!
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 44 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming on Vernitherms |
This has been a pretty interesting thread to say the least. It appears those
trying to control the air flow across the cooler itself have been correct.
Lets add another wrinkle to this solution, instead of controlling the air,
how about installing a ball valve right at the oil cooler which would direct
all, some, or none of the oil either through the cooler or divert back into
the return line. This valve would be controlled from the cockpit via a cable.
Just like the valves that control the hot water that flows to the heater
cores of our millions of automobiles. Same principle, different objective.
Boy, ya gotta love the experimental category.
Kevin Shannon
-9A getting ready to hang engine and
planning oil cooler mounting logistics
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Paul,
Congratulations!
With a little luck Dave & I will try and do as well as you by the end of
April. Please keep us informed of future runs & results.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
Niantic, CT
*************
>
>Well fellas, the events of yesterday should require an update...IT'S
>ALIVE! Yes, I started the dormant engine for the first time after
>having it for over 2 painful years...can't believe it took me that long
>to start the damn thing! I have a Jeff Rose ignition, and come to find
>out, the ignition was the only thing running it..I had trouble with my
>left mag...the only other problems were a bad oil temperature xducer,
>and no ammeter readout...other than that, she fired right up, and ran
>very smooth, considering it was running on one set of plugs. I
>pre-oiled the engine with an insecticide sprayer turned into pressure
>oiler, and all was great....really helps in the motivational category!
>Hope to have her flying before it gets hot here..
>
>Hope all is doing well...keep us updated on progress...
>
>Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Browne" <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Pneumatic Squeezer/C-Frame for Sale |
Pneumatic Squeezer with 2.5" flange nose yoke and 2.5" thin nose yoke.
Also includes adjustable set holder. $652.00 new, will take $550.00.
C-Frame Tool, $129.00 new, will take $75.
Chris Browne
w 770 497 8818
h 770 887 5642
exRV-6A Builder, Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <DonH(at)axonn.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming on Vernitherms |
I sure don't get a warm fuzzy feeling about having yet another knob in the
cockpit to adjust something that seems like it should be automatic.
Doesn't there exist a reliable thermostatically-controlled valve that could
control the flow of oil through the oil cooler, to do what a lot of people
seem to think the "vernatherm" should be doing? From the sound of the
Lycoming reply, it sounds like the "vernatherm" is sort of an emergency
backup in case whatever the airframe mfr put in series with the oil cooler
got stopped up. If so, then maybe they were assuming a thermostatic valve?
I don't know about anybody else, but I think a hundred-dollar-or-so valve
that let me concentrate on flying the plane rather than messing about with
the engine would be a safety enhancement, especially if there was already a
backup device to slow it down from destroying the engine if it failed.
I guess I'm biased. I earn my living automating stuff a thousand times more
complicated than a thermostatic valve, and have make it cost under $10 most
of the time. It's galling that to get a reliable airplane I'm having to
install so much 1940's-vintage control stuff.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM [mailto:Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM]
> Sent: Monday, February 19, 2001 10:40 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming on Vernitherms
>
>
>
> This has been a pretty interesting thread to say the least.
> It appears those
> trying to control the air flow across the cooler itself have
> been correct.
> Lets add another wrinkle to this solution, instead of
> controlling the air,
> how about installing a ball valve right at the oil cooler
> which would direct
> all, some, or none of the oil either through the cooler or
> divert back into
> the return line. This valve would be controlled from the
> cockpit via a cable.
> Just like the valves that control the hot water that flows to
> the heater
> cores of our millions of automobiles. Same principle,
> different objective.
> Boy, ya gotta love the experimental category.
> Kevin Shannon
> -9A getting ready to hang engine and
> planning oil cooler mounting logistics
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming on Vernitherms |
Kevin,
After mulling this thread over, controlling the air to the oil cooler seems
like the right way to go. Besides the benefit of bringing all the oil up to
a temperature that will drive off moisture, a inlet air control valve has
the secondary benefit of redirecting cooling air no longer going to the oil
cooler back to cool the cylinder heads.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (systems install)
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2001 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming on Vernitherms
This has been a pretty interesting thread to say the least. It appears those
trying to control the air flow across the cooler itself have been correct.
Lets add another wrinkle to this solution, instead of controlling the air,
how about installing a ball valve right at the oil cooler which would direct
all, some, or none of the oil either through the cooler or divert back into
the return line. This valve would be controlled from the cockpit via a
cable.
Just like the valves that control the hot water that flows to the heater
cores of our millions of automobiles. Same principle, different objective.
Boy, ya gotta love the experimental category.
Kevin Shannon
-9A getting ready to hang engine and
planning oil cooler mounting logistics
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Found this at Chief aircraft. $252 for a 4 oz part or $1008/lb.
http://www.chiefaircraft.com/Aircraft/OilSystem/VernithermValve.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for a Dyna-Focal Engine for my RV-4 |
Hi Guys (and Gals),
My last two engine purchases went south on me. The H2AD's don't fit
and I found an O-235 but it subsequently turned out to be a conical mount.
Sooo I'm back in the market, cash at the ready, plane justa sittin'
waitin', and I'm still looking for an O-320, O-290, or even an O-235,
dyna-focal mount engine. Please, if you can refer me to someone or refer
them to me I'd appreciate it. Thank you, in advance, for your assistance.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Allegro Engine Monitor |
| From: | "Bruce Uvanni" <buvanni(at)us.ibm.com> |
02/19/2001 02:15:25 PM
Hi Listers:
I've been looking at engine monitors, and I really like the Allegro
Avionics M816 engine monitor. The problem is that I tried to reach
them at 520-327-3695 but the number is no longer in service. Did they
change their number or are they out of business?
Folks that have this unit, How do you like it? Was it easy to install? Was
the hookup instructions easy to understand?
Thanks for your help
BRUCE UVANNI
RV6A QB Finish kit
BUVANNI(at)US.IBM.COM
PHONE: (802) 769-2822
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming on Vernitherms |
In a message dated 2/19/01 10:50:28 AM, DonH(at)axonn.com writes:
>I guess I'm biased. I earn my living automating stuff a thousand times
>more
>complicated than a thermostatic valve, and have make it cost under $10
>most
>of the time. It's galling that to get a reliable airplane I'm having to
>install so much 1940's-vintage control stuff.
There ya go, lets get busy designing one for us. $10 sounds fair, I'll take
one.
Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: making a cowling |
In a message dated 2/17/01 11:24:23 AM Pacific Standard Time,
teetimeah64(at)hotmail.com writes:
> -- RV-List message posted by: "Tim Sweemer" teetimeah64(at)hotmail.com This is
for the cowling on the junction between the vertical and horizontal stabilizers.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: making a cowling |
In a message dated 2/17/01 11:24:23 AM Pacific Standard Time,
teetimeah64(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
> This is for the cowling on the junction between the vertical and horizontal
> stabilizers. Has anyone tried spraying that expanding foam in there,
>
Way to messy....don't go there. Block up the gap with some foam/paper/tape
then use modeling clay to get your shape. After you get the shape your
looking for wax any exposed metal taping off all other area's, then lay up
your glass. Don't let the clay dry out, and wait for the glass to cure before
you remove it from your plane then trim. That's how I did mine and it came
out nice.
Tim Barnes
N39TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Oil Pressure Valve |
test
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Balanced wheel pants benefits and How to land this thing! |
| From: | Rick_Smith(at)tivoli.com |
02/19/2001 02:53:31 PM
My 180 hp. RV-6 (N1150S) has 215 hours on it now and it has been quite an
enjoyable learning experience.
Concerning gear leg shimmy and balancing wheel pants there are a couple
observations I can relate.
Some gear legs shimmy fore and aft while taxing and some don't. If I have
greater than 30 psi in the tires they shimmy all the time while taxiing
with or without wheel pants. At 25 psi shimmy very rarely occurs and it is
much easier to land. A wooden stiffener bonded to the gear leg may prevent
the symptom but it appears the causative factors are brake disks that are
not perfectly true and hard tires on smooth pavement.
Balancing the wheel pants for and aft so the CG is at the axle does a
couple neat things. One is it prevents a torque load from being applied to
the mounting points when the wheel gets deflected vertically by a bump. If
you operate out of rough hard fields you will notice that the mounting
attachments get torn up and the pant mounting develops play allowing the
pants to tilt up and down. Theoretically, balancing may also cause them to
be directionally stable in flight just like an airfoil which may reduce
drag some minuscule amount. My second set of pants are not balanced and I
have not experienced shimmy and since they fit so close to the wheel
(quarter inch gap all around the tire) I don't go into dirt strips anymore
but it sure is fast.
Now for a question I have been struggling with.
How do you wheel land a RV-6 taildragger. My normal attempt scenario is to
approach at about 85 with half flaps, level off as close to the runway as
possible and try to kiss the runway with the tires and relieve back
pressure or try to feed in forward stick to plant it. Hasn't worked yet!..
As soon as the wheels touch it bounces into the air before you can feed in
forward stick to suppress it. Should I just feed in forward stick while
holding off and fly it into the concrete while saying "damn the decent
rate, I wanna wheel land"?
Last week I flew in a F1 Rocket with Titanium gear legs and it soaks up the
decent rate like oleos and wheel lands perfectly. Feels like you couldn't
bounce it if you tried. Apparently the Sonex guys also use titanium gear
legs and they also claim similar rebound dampening performance.
If that is really what I am experiencing my next venture may be building a
set of RV-6 titanium gear legs.
The gear legs on the F1 are not bent but use a welded axle fitting that
lets you adjust the wheel alignment with shims. Very clever.
Sorry for the long post but not being able to land my own plane is getting
embarrassing.
Regards,
Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Looking for a Dyna-Focal Engine for my RV-4 |
Hi Chuck;
Try a buddy of mine in AL who builds Lycomings. His
name is Don and he told me he could build you an
engine in a short period of time you if would like...
Call him @1-800-344-7918. Don's Engines. Good Luck
Rob Ray
N557RR
--- Chuck Rabaut wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Chuck Rabaut"
>
>
> Hi Guys (and Gals),
>
> My last two engine purchases went south on me.
> The H2AD's don't fit
> and I found an O-235 but it subsequently turned out
> to be a conical mount.
> Sooo I'm back in the market, cash at the ready,
> plane justa sittin'
> waitin', and I'm still looking for an O-320, O-290,
> or even an O-235,
> dyna-focal mount engine. Please, if you can refer
> me to someone or refer
> them to me I'd appreciate it. Thank you, in
> advance, for your assistance.
>
> Chuck
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Gretz Pitot Questions... |
Thanks Warren!!!
Kurt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | X-over exhaust from Aircraft Spruce |
Has anyone used the crossover exhaust that Aircraft Spruce sells on an RV4
with an O-320? I'm having trouble figuring out how to secure my throttle
and mixture cables. The crossover pipe is right behind the mixture control
on the carb. I even tried modifying Van's cable bracket so that it would
fit with the crossover pipe but the pipe is still in the way of the cable.
Any suggestions?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: High altitude operation |
> How much fuel consumption reduction do you actually see operating VFR at
17,500
Generally, the winds are stronger the higher you go, right?? Fly high and
save gas in terms of mpg but not in terms of gph.
Plus! We all love speed!
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Balanced wheel pants benefits and How to land this thing! |
>
>
> Now for a question I have been struggling with.
> How do you wheel land a RV-6 taildragger. My normal attempt scenario is
to
> approach at about 85 with half flaps, level off as close to the runway as
> possible and try to kiss the runway with the tires and relieve back
> pressure or try to feed in forward stick to plant it. Hasn't worked
yet!..
> As soon as the wheels touch it bounces into the air before you can feed in
> forward stick to suppress it. Should I just feed in forward stick while
> holding off and fly it into the concrete while saying "damn the decent
> rate, I wanna wheel land"?
Rick,
Well you know, maybe it's like the old joke. "Doc, it hurts when I do
this." Doc says; "don't do that."
You will get many opinions but mine is that it is never NECESSAY to wheel
land an RV. That includes a 20 knot gusty direct crosswind. That being
said I understand why one would want to be able to do it. I can do it five
times in a row perfectly and the next one will completely humble me. Mostly
I don't try it anymore. I think the only trick is that the descent rate
must be very low or you will be relaunched halfway into orbit.
There is nothing more impressive to a passenger than a really well executed
one but the potential for complete humiliation is far too great. My only go
around to date was with a new passenger and a botched wheely.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
I chatted with a F-117 pilot today in Alamogordo, NM. He changed from his
old job of just flying the U-2. We chatted cuz he has an RV-4 and he came
to look at my 6. His words were about how much fun, and how much enjoyment
he gets from the RV-4. I also gave a ride to a lady who is considering
building an RV with her husband who is recently retired from the German Air
Force. It is interesting what airplane has a great reputation among the
fighter pilots in these parts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming on Vernitherms |
>
> An alternative or additional step might be to construct a cabin adjustable
> door to open and close air intake into the oil cooler; Your comments on
this?
> THE VERNITHERM ONLY CONTROLS MAX OIL TEMP. IT HAS
> NOTHING TO DO WITH LOW TEMPS. THE AIRFRAME CONTROLS THE LOW TEMPS.
>
This makes no sense. What does it do, tell the oil to get cool or hot?
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Engine Baffle pictures? |
Does anyone have any pictures of their engine baffle
installation...especially the front.
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo
(570)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Too Short Cam-Loc Fasteners |
One of the last things on my pre-inspection punch list was to do the final
installation of the Cam-loc fasteners for the oil filler door.
On installation, I found out that the %!!$?!! studs are too short! There is
no way to make the -3 length studs supplied with the kit work on MY cowling.
This despite countersinking the cowling to accept the little toothed
retaining washer. The -4 length studs I just ordered from ACS should work
($2.50 for the studs, $4.00 or so for shipping). Not a big expense, but one
of those frustrating things that shouldn't happen.
Posted to the RV-list for information purposes, sent to Van's to provide
feedback for a problem that should be easy to eliminate.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | full swivel tail wheel question |
A question for those who have taken the full swivel tailwheel assembly
apart.
I was taking the tail wheel assembly apart to paint it and when I pulled the
fork and shaft assemble out of the bushing hole, springs and things flew
everywhere! I have retrieved a small spring and a little metal piece that
it fits into. Is there anything else that flew out of that hole that I am
missing??? I put it back together with parts found and it seems to work
properly.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage/finish kit....it sure looks different now that it's on the
landing gear! My wife walked by it and even made airplane noises.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: full swivel tail wheel question |
In a message dated 2/19/01 9:15:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, rv6bldr(at)home.com
writes:
>
> A question for those who have taken the full swivel tailwheel assembly
> apart.
>
> I was taking the tail wheel assembly apart to paint it and when I pulled the
> fork and shaft assemble out of the bushing hole, springs and things flew
> everywhere! I have retrieved a small spring and a little metal piece that
> it fits into. Is there anything else that flew out of that hole that I am
> missing??? I put it back together with parts found and it seems to work
> properly.
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok
>
Nope, Just a pawl (that's the "official" name for the little pin), and a
spring.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Help! RV-4 Fuse Bulkhead Line Up Problem |
OK, I have a problem and can't figure it out. I was wondering if anyone else
had this problem.
On my RV-4 Fuse, the .125 AL angle on F413 does not line up with the .063
angle on F404. These AL angle should meet approx. 90 degrees and have one
rivet attaching them. They are about 1/4 off or so and thus I cannot get a
rivet between them. I have the F413 aligned with the bottom of the firewall
and the bottom of F404, but the top side appears to be 1/4 too tall thus not
permitting the AL angles to line up.
I am having the same problem on the back side, the AL angle on the F415 does
not line up well with the .063 angle on the back of F404. Again the F415 is
lined up on the bottom of F404 and F407, but it too appears too tall as the
AL angle on F415 is higher than the attaching angle on the back of F404.
I assume that is a very important rivet as it ties the heavy AL angle from
the firewall to the wingspar and then back to F407. Is it safe to just rivet
the rest of the rib bulkheads but not the AL angles together? Any
help/advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
-Mike
was doing good on the fuse, now frustrated....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Twin Cities RV Forum 2000 Pics |
I added a couple of pages to my web site today of last years Twin Cities
RV Forum in Red Wing, MN. There are a boatload of pictures but the
initial pages load pretty quickly so you can pick and choose which ones
you want to see.
http://bmnellis.com/FlyIns/TwinCity.htm
BTW, in case you haven't noticed, I got my own domain name now so my
website address has, hopefully, changed for the last time. If you have
my site linked or bookmarked please make the appropriate changes so
you'll get the latest information and updates. I've also updated the
site to reflect more consistency from page to page and improve the
navigation structure. I appreciate your patience while I've gone
through some recent ISP changes.
Thanks also to Bill Vondane for helping me through this process.
Mike Nellis
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
RV-6 N699BM (res) Gooping up the tanks
Plainfield, IL (LOT)
http://bmnellis.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming on Vernitherms |
It actually does make sense. If you've followed this l-o-n-g thread it has been
explained that there
two parallel paths for the oil to follow. One path is through the cooler and filter,
the other is
via a bypass passage the size of which is controlled by the vernatherm (sp?) valve.
Hence the
minimum or low oil temps are controlled by the airframe i.e. how much cold air
passes over the
cooler etc. and the maximum temp is (hopefully) kept in check by the vernatherm
(sp?) whose function
causes ALL of the oil flow to be through the cooler when the temps get up to it's
set point. Thus at
lower oil temps the vernatherm is wide open and the oil has two paths to follow.
Hopefully enough
bypasses the cooler for the temperature to rise to acceptable levels. If not then
reducing cooler
efficiency by blocking airflow comes into play to help raise temps. Thus the "winterizing
plate"
installed on most aircraft in the north where we get WINTER. At higher oil temperatures
the
vernatherm gradually, as the temp rises, reduces those choices of flow path to
one. Namely through
the cooler thus hopefully keeping a fixed ceiling on what temperature the oil can
attain by forcing
all of it to be cooled.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Baffle pictures? |
Jim Cimino wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone have any pictures of their engine baffle
> installation...especially the front.
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/engine3.html
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: full swivel tail wheel question |
What brand tail wheel do you have? The Aircraft Spruce has cut-a-way
drawings of several different assemblies.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com>
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2001 8:11 PM
Subject: RV-List: full swivel tail wheel question
>
> A question for those who have taken the full swivel tailwheel assembly
> apart.
>
> I was taking the tail wheel assembly apart to paint it and when I pulled
the
> fork and shaft assemble out of the bushing hole, springs and things flew
> everywhere! I have retrieved a small spring and a little metal piece that
> it fits into. Is there anything else that flew out of that hole that I am
> missing??? I put it back together with parts found and it seems to work
> properly.
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok
> -6 fuselage/finish kit....it sure looks different now that it's on the
> landing gear! My wife walked by it and even made airplane noises.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Baffle pictures? |
Try Phil Arters RV-8 site.
http://shell.rmi.net/~arter/cowling.html
Mike Nellis
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
RV-6 N699BM (res) Gooping up the tanks
Plainfield, IL (LOT)
http://bmnellis.com
>
> Does anyone have any pictures of their engine baffle
> installation...especially the front.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com> |
Today I made the first flight of my RV-6 from DXR. It was perfectly
trimmed and flew
hands and feet off.
Engine is a O360-A!A with Airflow Performance fuel injection and
Electroair (Jeff Rose)
electronic ignition. Prop is a new Hartzell constant speed.
Thank you Van for designing a wonderful airplane.
Tony Castellano
tcastella(at)juno.com
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6 N401TC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
Congrats Tony---
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Anthony J
Castellano
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2001 7:00 PM
Subject: RV-List: First Flight
Today I made the first flight of my RV-6 from DXR. It was perfectly
trimmed and flew
hands and feet off.
Engine is a O360-A!A with Airflow Performance fuel injection and
Electroair (Jeff Rose)
electronic ignition. Prop is a new Hartzell constant speed.
Thank you Van for designing a wonderful airplane.
Tony Castellano
tcastella(at)juno.com
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6 N401TC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Tank screws - lose fit |
I'm trial-fitting the fuel tank and was surprised to find that the tank
screws that fastens the tank to the main spar are not difficult to fasten -
in fact, they almost seem too easy. This is the first time since I started
the RV-8 that I've encountered 'easy' plate-nuts. They are not lose, but I
bet my 7 year old son could fasten them.
I used AN509-8R8 screws and K1100-08 plate-nuts.
Anyone else?
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine install help |
> Second question, manifold pressure. Never had one before. I understand
> that I take the readings from the primer port on the right rear
> cylinder. Question is, what material can I hook up to that 1/8th" AN
> fitting?
Can't help you with the first question but as for the MP, I made up some
hoses from the 701 stuff Vans sells. The smallest hose they sell is 1/4" so
I used that although you can get 1/8" as well I believe (from Aircraft
Spruce?) which would probably be better. At any rate the flexible hose gives
me a better feeling than the copper or whatever. Got the fittings for the
port from Vans as well.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald R. Eaves" <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Balanced wheel pants benefits and How to land this thing! |
Rick -
Add the gear stiffeners.
It will do the trick on the bounce problem.
Will take less time than building titanium gear legs and Cost much less.
Try it - You'll Like It -
Ask me why I know -
Don Eaves
RV6 Flying
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick_Smith(at)tivoli.com
Subject: RV-List: Balanced wheel pants benefits and How to land this thing!
Now for a question I have been struggling with:
How do you wheel land a RV-6 taildragger.
As soon as the wheels touch it bounces into the air before you can feed in
forward stick to suppress it
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Allegro Engine Monitor |
Check the archives on this. I tried contacting Peter at Allegro for months
and never got him. I finally went with the GRT unit. Not as sexy looking
but a good value
Ross
> Hi Listers:
> I've been looking at engine monitors, and I really like the Allegro
> Avionics M816 engine monitor. The problem is that I tried to reach
> them at 520-327-3695 but the number is no longer in service. Did they
> change their number or are they out of business?
> Folks that have this unit, How do you like it? Was it easy to install? Was
> the hookup instructions easy to understand?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Way to go! Congratulations. Don't forget to let us know how the test
flights go.
Marty in Brentwood TN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Anthony J Castellano" <tcastella(at)juno.com>
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2001 9:00 PM
Subject: RV-List: First Flight
>
> Today I made the first flight of my RV-6 from DXR. It was perfectly
> trimmed and flew
> hands and feet off.
> Engine is a O360-A!A with Airflow Performance fuel injection and
> Electroair (Jeff Rose)
> electronic ignition. Prop is a new Hartzell constant speed.
> Thank you Van for designing a wonderful airplane.
> Tony Castellano
> tcastella(at)juno.com
> Hopewell Junction, NY
> RV-6 N401TC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump o/hauler? |
Hi Kevin:
Little late replying on this, generally speaking the cost to overhaul is
about the same as a new pump. The pump for the 0320 & 0360 run around $
200.00 US. If you call 1-800 822 3200 they can take care of you. I believe
they are located in North Carolina, they supply most of the pumps that come
up our way or get one from ACS the part # 41271 and the price is 193.00 in
their current catalog.
Eustace Bowhay
-----Original Message-----
From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM <Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 3:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel pump o/hauler?
>
>Hey guys where is a good place to send a fuel pump to get an overhaul? Just
>found out my mechanic wont do it.
>Kevin in WA
>-9A O-320 catto prop
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Too Short Cam-Loc Fasteners |
> One of the last things on my pre-inspection punch list was to do the final
> installation of the Cam-loc fasteners for the oil filler door.
>
> On installation, I found out that the %!!$?!! studs are too short!
Yeah I had this problem too and I know others have had. Its actually pretty
close (depending on the thickness of the f-glass in that area). I used a
bench mounted disk sander to sand down the mounting surface on the
receptacle by 1/32" or so before riveting on; problem solved.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Too Short Cam-Loc Fasteners |
> > One of the last things on my pre-inspection punch list was to do the
final
> > installation of the Cam-loc fasteners for the oil filler door.
> >
> > On installation, I found out that the %!!$?!! studs are too short!
>
> Yeah I had this problem too and I know others have had. Its actually
pretty
> close (depending on the thickness of the f-glass in that area). I used a
> bench mounted disk sander to sand down the mounting surface on the
> receptacle by 1/32" or so before riveting on; problem solved.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
Same problem here too, but I didn't want to grind down the inside like
Randall because the interior of my cowling is PAINTED so I went with the -4s
also. Randall's paint job might look better on the outside than mine (he has
a gorgeous Craig Roberts clearcoat job), but mine looks better on the
inside. ;-)
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, finish wiring
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | vibrations (floor stiffeners) |
I installed these brackets a couple weeks ago... I did all 4 stiffeners even
though only the outboards show on the plans. In discussing this with my
local RV bunch we finally snapped to the fact that Van's standard center
console ties the inboard stiffeners to the spar. If you leave out the
console as I did, then add the brackets to the inboard stiffeners. They make
a noticeable difference in oil canning. I crawled underneath before
installing the brackets and got a fair amount of flex & oil canning when I
pressed up on the skin. After installation, it's almost non-existent. Plus,
it's gotta help withstand my 10+ bubba factor.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) get'n close... waiting on my #!@$)* engine shop
>
> Bernie
> The prints show the stiffeners attached to the spar I
> believe its second from the outboard on each side.
> This is part of the structural integrity for this
> area. (very easy to overlook on the print)without it
> the only thing holding the floor to the fuselage are
> the rivets at rear of floor. In addition I also
> anchored my fuel selector gage bracket to the floor
February 14, 2001 - February 20, 2001
RV-Archive.digest.vol-kf