RV-Archive.digest.vol-kg
February 20, 2001 - February 25, 2001
> stiffner but dont believe this is required. With my
> 200lbs pushing down on the floor exiting the cockpit I
> think These attach points help. BTW thanks for the
> picture on the lowered fuel valve, just completed mine
> and works fine.
>
>
> RV6A 135hrs still smiling
> --- BERNIE KERR wrote:
> >
> >
> > Joe,
> >
> > this is the same question you ask me when I sent you
> > the picture of my
> > lowered fuel valve. Is there a message associated
> > with this question? My
> > stiffeners are not fastened to the spar. I spoke to
> > Ken Green about this and
> > he did not think it necessary.
> >
> > Bernie, 6A, no gear vibrations yet at 85 hours , SE
> > Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Beveling skins-pre punched 6 |
In a message dated 2/18/01 8:39:58 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ENewton57(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< I beveled them by filing the skin thinner. I placed the skin on my
workbench so the corner to be filed was in the corner of my workbench. Then
using a file, I filed the skin in that corner only, down to where it was
about as thin as the aileron skin. Then when the two are overlapped
together, they lay flat and level with the tank skins. >>
I would just add for additional clarification (I hope), that you bevel the
bottom corner of the top skin and the top corner of the bottom skin. Top or
bottom depends on whether you lap the outboard over the inboard or vice
versa, it's optional. Now if you aren't thoroughly confused you should be.
Do not archive
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
Subject: | IK Technologies Engine Monitor |
I stopped by a booth at OSH last summer and spent a fair amount of time
talking with the developer and chief bottle washer of the IK
Technologies Engine Monitor. It's an interesting looking product, you
either like it or hate it, but it is another option. During my
conversation with the developer/owner he asked me for my honest opinion
of the product. At that time, I told him I thought it needed some work
as it looked like an "Alpha" or "Beta" version of the product. The
LED's didn't look bright enough and the display panel didn't look quite
right. At the time I was thinking it looked like something that you
might find on a computer flight simulator. Feature and functions wise,
it looked like a good product though. It was complete and overly
expensive.
The other day I received an email from the company that went to all
those that signed up to receive future information. I don't think the
company has a web site and I haven't seen any ads for the product in the
aviation rags or elsewhere.
I thought I would publish everything I got from them on my web site so
others could have a look and get the contact information if they wanted.
Follow the links to check out some cockpit photos and propaganda.
I'm not associated with the company at all and I'll only leave it on the
web site for a week or so. I just thought other might be interested in
seeing alternative products that are on the market. I don't know
anything more about the product other than what on the web page. I'd
like to see the product do well because we can't have to many choices
out there.
Mike Nellis
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
RV-6 N699BM (res) Gooping up the tanks
Plainfield, IL (LOT)
http://bmnellis.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "BERNIE KERR" <KERRJB(at)email.msn.com> |
\"laura crook\"" ,
"ROB IRVIN" ,
"SHERRILL GLENN LANEY"
Subject: | Re: IK Technologies Engine Monitor (EIS input) |
I continue to find neat things that my EIS does. I just installed Van's new
fuel gages that work with the original senders and decided to see how good
they were at "zero" fuel pick up. Drained my left tank on the ground and
added 1 gallon of fuel. Climbed to 8500 feet over KOBE on the right tank,
switched to left which was indicating a little over 1 gal on the gage. The
gage dropped down to the peg in short order and then the engine ran for
another few minutes before the EIS red light starting blinking. I switched
tanks and engine sputtered just slightly a few seconds later. NEAT to have
two independent systems saying hey, you are running a fuel tank dry. I was
able to put 18.9 gallons into the left tank, which is real close to 19
gallons useable out of a 6 tank.
Bernie Kerr, 6A , SE Fla
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 1:57 AM
Subject: RV-List: IK Technologies Engine Monitor
>
> I stopped by a booth at OSH last summer and spent a fair amount of time
> talking with the developer and chief bottle washer of the IK
> Technologies Engine Monitor. It's an interesting looking product, you
> either like it or hate it, but it is another option.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "BERNIE KERR" <KERRJB(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Prop Decision O-320 |
If you are in the process of determining which prop you are going to
purchase for your O-320 and are concerned about the 2600 RPM Sensenich
metal prop limit. There is a strong possibility that the limit will be
increased after they complete a retest they are currently scheduling the
end of March.
Bernie Kerr, 6A flying with Sensenich prop, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | zen and the art of landing |
Thread-Topic: zen and the art of landing
Thread-Index: AcCbNJjeFQvFMFhpRFSouS3QmqiKNA=
From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
hey, I say why not start another super-long thread, maybe I'll throw in
some talk on primer just to watch some people get going at it.
After spending some considerable time in the state of suspended
animation between bounces, I think I've finally figured out how to land
smoothly. At least 85% of the time, when no one else is watching and my
wife's not riding with me.
I come in full flaps, 70 mph on short final, with enough power on short
final to maintain a 300-400 fpm descent. The descent rate will
make/break your landing. Wanna bounce? All you have to do is pull
power on short final. With some power in a stabilized approach, the
airplane comes in at a much flatter angle of attack, so you don't have
to work as much to stop a rapid descent. When I'm about a foot above
the runway, I GENTLY start a flare while at the same time slowly
reducing power to idle. This will result in a tail-low 'modified' wheel
landing, which seems to be the ideal technique to land a RV. Once the
mains kiss the runway, I hold the attitude I'm in for a few seconds then
push forward on the stick GENTLY while GENTLY and progressively applying
brakes. Now that I'm pushing harder on the brakes I let the tail down
GENTLY to grease the tailwheel on. Sounds simple, huh? If you do it
the same way every time and do things smoothly, you won't be the guy
walking into the FBO trying to explain yourself to a bunch of old farts
judging your landings. At least that was my motivation for getting the
landings to be manageable.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 O-360C/S flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Tony,
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!!!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Finishing cowl & fairings)
Niantic, CT (Westerly airport)
>From: Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: First Flight
>Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 22:00:02 -0500
>
>
>Today I made the first flight of my RV-6 from DXR. It was perfectly
>trimmed and flew
>hands and feet off.
>Engine is a O360-A!A with Airflow Performance fuel injection and
>Electroair (Jeff Rose)
>electronic ignition. Prop is a new Hartzell constant speed.
>Thank you Van for designing a wonderful airplane.
>Tony Castellano
>tcastella(at)juno.com
>Hopewell Junction, NY
>RV-6 N401TC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rpflanze(at)iquest.net |
Subject: | Re: Balanced wheel pants benefits and How to land this thing! |
Hey Rick,
My experience has been just the opposite. I can grease a wheel landing nearly
every time, but I can't three point the thing for nothing!
The thing that I've found that works is to make a normal descent towards your
touchdown point at about 70 kts with 20 degrees of flaps. Then kind of dive
towards the end of the runway. Mike Seager told me to fly it down to the runway,
not flair it all the way down like a Cessna. The key is to level out just above
the ground. When the wheels touch, immediately release back pressure and she'll
usually stay put.
I know that this is a little fast, but when I come in slower, the nose is pretty
high and the sink rate becomes too much.
Recently, I've been working on my three-point landings and I think I've finally
found a technique that works for me. To be sure, the three-pointers use a lot
less runway. My last three landings have been pretty good. I just have to
get used to hauling back on the stick that far.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (120 hours)
>Now for a question I have been struggling with.
>How do you wheel land a RV-6 taildragger
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: Help! RV-4 Fuse Bulkhead Line Up Problem |
N8292W(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> OK, I have a problem and can't figure it out. I was wondering if anyone else
> had this problem.
>
> On my RV-4 Fuse, the .125 AL angle on F413 does not line up with the .063
> angle on F404. These AL angle should meet approx. 90 degrees and have one
> rivet attaching them. They are about 1/4 off or so and thus I cannot get a
> rivet between them. I have the F413 aligned with the bottom of the firewall
> and the bottom of F404, but the top side appears to be 1/4 too tall thus not
> permitting the AL angles to line up.
>
> I am having the same problem on the back side, the AL angle on the F415 does
> not line up well with the .063 angle on the back of F404. Again the F415 is
> lined up on the bottom of F404 and F407, but it too appears too tall as the
> AL angle on F415 is higher than the attaching angle on the back of F404.
>
> I assume that is a very important rivet as it ties the heavy AL angle from
> the firewall to the wingspar and then back to F407. Is it safe to just rivet
> the rest of the rib bulkheads but not the AL angles together? Any
> help/advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
> -Mike
> was doing good on the fuse, now frustrated....
>
Mike, I had the same problem with my -4. I think you need to get in touch
with Van's. In this particular area I had 3 or 4 problems. I tried to get it
changed on the prints but is seem to no avail. This was at least 4 years ago.
There is a solution because my -4 is flying, but I can't seem to remember just
what I did to fix it.
Sorry I can't be of more help. E-mail me direct and give a little more
detail. I am really kinda confused about the entire problem.
Carroll Bird RV-4 150 hours and counting.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Tank screws - lose fit |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Are Barstad
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2001 9:27 PM
Subject: RV-List: Tank screws - lose fit
Hi Are,
I'm not at the tank stage, but have installed the plate-nuts. When trial
fitting for the skin dimple I tried a few screws. Mine too seem "easy". I
wonder if it is because they are larger than any we used yet on the tail.
Larger screw driver, leverage etc.
Jack
DSM
RV8, wings
I'm trial-fitting the fuel tank and was surprised to find that the tank
screws that fastens the tank to the main spar are not difficult to fasten -
in fact, they almost seem too easy. This is the first time since I started
the RV-8 that I've encountered 'easy' plate-nuts. They are not lose, but I
bet my 7 year old son could fasten them.
I used AN509-8R8 screws and K1100-08 plate-nuts.
Anyone else?
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | intimidator for sale |
Listers I hate to capitalize on Dale Earnhardts
passing but I have a snap on intimidator tool box for
sale asking $7000.00 or trade for a timed out 0-360 or
0-320 (not the H2AD) call or e-mail me at 214-435-9149
(cell) or e-mail at willig10(at)yahoo.com
thanks
Glenn Williams
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: full swivel tail wheel question |
The Vans unit is a great light weight product!
273SB RV 4 Colo.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: zen and the art of landing |
Bob, I like your observation about "spending some considerable time in
the state of suspended animation between bounces"! I suspect only the
liars among RV-6 pilots will deny ever having spent much time in that
particular time/space warp. :-D
I know how to land my RV-6 smoothly; all the techniques are burned into
my brain and all the synapses snap at the proper time every landing.
Give me calm air and I can demonstrate an enviable grasp on the zen of
great landings in an RV-6, two-wheel, three-point, or single wheel (take
your pick of which wheel).
However............throw some wind into the equation and all bets are
off. The trick to landing a conventional-geared RV is to hit the exact
airspeed that yields the proper combination of sink rate and angle of
attack so the plane neither plops down or returns to the air as the
tires kiss (slap?) the runway. In calm air this is not a major
impediment in the development of the compleat RV pilot. But when the
wind starts blowing, as it almost always does, the one airspeed that
produces perfect landings becomes a moving target.
If someone can enlighten us on how to smoothly land a conventional gear
RV in gusty wind (and no snide remarks about simply adding a wheel to
the nose of the plane, please.....), I will be anxious to listen.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with more landings than actually logged)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
===================
Bob Japundza wrote:
>
>
> hey, I say why not start another super-long thread, maybe I'll throw in
> some talk on primer just to watch some people get going at it.
>
> After spending some considerable time in the state of suspended
> animation between bounces, I think I've finally figured out how to land
> smoothly. At least 85% of the time, when no one else is watching and my
> wife's not riding with me.
>
> I come in full flaps, 70 mph on short final, with enough power on short
> final to maintain a 300-400 fpm descent. The descent rate will
> make/break your landing. Wanna bounce? All you have to do is pull
> power on short final. With some power in a stabilized approach, the
> airplane comes in at a much flatter angle of attack, so you don't have
> to work as much to stop a rapid descent. When I'm about a foot above
> the runway, I GENTLY start a flare while at the same time slowly
> reducing power to idle. This will result in a tail-low 'modified' wheel
> landing, which seems to be the ideal technique to land a RV. Once the
> mains kiss the runway, I hold the attitude I'm in for a few seconds then
> push forward on the stick GENTLY while GENTLY and progressively applying
> brakes. Now that I'm pushing harder on the brakes I let the tail down
> GENTLY to grease the tailwheel on. Sounds simple, huh? If you do it
> the same way every time and do things smoothly, you won't be the guy
> walking into the FBO trying to explain yourself to a bunch of old farts
> judging your landings. At least that was my motivation for getting the
> landings to be manageable.
>
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 O-360C/S flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Listers:
Has anyone out there in the e-world found a tow bar that works well for a
RV-6A? If so, where did you get it?
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rpflanze(at)iquest.net |
Subject: | LASAR Ignition Problem (Long post) |
About a month ago, there was a thread about the pros and cons of the various
electronic ignition vendors. Someone posted a comment that perhaps service
was an important factor to consider. Little did I know how prophetic that statement
would turn out to be for me.
Two weeks ago, I was returning on a flight when the manual magneto mode light
on my LASAR electronic ignition module turned on. The engine also began to
run a little rough. Upon landing, a visual inspection did not turn up anything.
Two days later when I tried to start the airplane, the ignition was dead. The
engine turned over just fine, but there wasnt any spark. After a careful inspection
of the fuse, ignition switch, wiring, etc. I concluded that the problem was
either with the module or the mags. Since the problem now exceeded my knowledge
to correct, a telephone call was in order.
I made a telephone call to John Neumman at Unison and discussed the problem
with him. He promptly overnighted a LASAR timing light to me to check the mags
and I found that the contact points in the left mag where always open. When
I called John back, he said that they have occasionally had a problem where
grease from the cam gets fouled in the points. He again promply overnighted
a new mag to me with a return FedEx voucher to return ship the bad mag back.
I installed the new mag and the engine started right up, but the manual mag
mode light remained on. Darn (more profuse language was used!). Called John
again and described the problem. This one was stumping them. In our discussion,
he asked if there was some way for me to get the airplane to Rockford. I said
sure, how about in two hours!!
Flew up to Rockford where John met me at the airport with his trusty PC. After
a few minutes, he had diagnosed the problem as an electrical output problem
in the new left mag. This time, he had a new mag tested and brought out to
the airport. For my trouble, he also gave me a new wiring harness in blue to
match my airplane, eight new spark plugs, gas for my trip, and an offer to buy
me lunch.
Now Im not thrilled with the problems Ive had, but I could not ask for more
in terms of the service Ive received. John always returned my telephone calls
very promptly, was very helpful, and made sure that I didnt have to pay for
anything. He said that Unison had a few hardware problems early on with the
LASAR system, but said that things have quieted down a lot in the last year
and they are beginning to see the type of reliability they expected.
If you are considering electronic ignition for your bird, the folks at Unison
have been fantastic to deal with and they understand experimentals. They are
willing to work closely with us even though our names are not Piper or Cessna.
I dont want to dredge up all the pros and cons of the LASAR system. You can
pull up the 3,000 comments from the archives if you have a few days to kill.
But Im impressed with Unisons approach to customer service. You can do much
worse out there.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (120 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Tank screws - lose fit |
Interesting question and I have had a similiar experiance. I just checked
the fit of a some screws and nutplates in preparation for attaching the glass
tips to my stabilizers. Thay seemed very loose and I was doubting that I was
pairing up the proper pieces of hardware. I'm hoping those with some
experiance can pass on some info.
Dennis Thomas
RV-9 Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Tank screws - lose fit |
I received a bag of 155 nutplates with my fuselage kit that should have
contained 8-32 nutplates but actually contained 10-32 nutplates. Van's
exchanged them and indicated that I wasn't the only one that this had
happened to.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Fuselage
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
Interesting question and I have had a similiar experiance. I just checked
the fit of a some screws and nutplates in preparation for attaching the
glass
tips to my stabilizers. Thay seemed very loose and I was doubting that I
was
pairing up the proper pieces of hardware. I'm hoping those with some
experiance can pass on some info.
Dennis Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | First flight RV-4 N190 DL |
RV-4 builders beware,
DAVE LATHAM of Puyallup, WA had his RV-4 powered by a Bart 0-360 with hi
comp pistons and electronic ignition twirling a Hartsell C/S prop
successfully flown by test pilot Jose Andrews (RV-4 Builder, retired airline
pilot) on Saturday, February 17 from Thun Field. According to Jose the
aircraft flew hands off the first time. During the break in period for the
engine, 180 mph without fairings has been seen on the airspeed. A couple of
minor oil leaks were fixed and the airplane flown again on Sunday. Rate of
Climb is in excess of 2200 fpm.
Congratulations to Dave, the president of EAA Chapter 326 (http://
EAA326(at)iwarp.com). Now if we can just keep him on the ground without
grinning.
Bill Bruton,
EAA 326 Photographer
RV-8 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lycoming on Vernitherms |
> Hence the
> minimum or low oil temps are controlled by the airframe
Let's face it, Van's airplanes are just too efficient, and us cold weather flyers
just have to pay the
price.
Think that's going to make me want to move to Texas? I think not.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net> |
Hi listers,
I want to mount nav lights on the fibreglass wingtips.
I see one wire coming out of the body of the lamp which is the power supply,
but should I provide a ground wire from the case to the airframe ?
Looks like the bulb would be grounded by the case internally, but can't get
to the airframe because of the fibreglass tip....sound right ??
Austin.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Scott R McDaniels' Assistance |
In a message dated 2/19/01 8:34:13 AM Pacific Standard Time,
dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< Scott has recently cleared up a number of ongoing questions for the
RV-List.
He is a great asset to the list and to Van's. We appreciate the donation of
your knowledge and personal time to the list, Scott. From all of us,
thanks! >>
Well, said Dennis, and I add my thanks to Scott.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "BERNIE KERR" <KERRJB(at)email.msn.com> |
Steve,
I made one that weighs under 2 pounds with al from HomeDepot. Will send you
a picture.
Bernie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 10:21 AM
Subject: RV-List: Tow Bar
>
> Listers:
>
> Has anyone out there in the e-world found a tow bar that works well for a
> RV-6A? If so, where did you get it?
>
> Steve
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Lycoming on Vernitherms |
Do oil temps less than the desired 180 degree range have adverse effects on
engine performance or cause premature failure? Will flying around with 140
degree oil harm the engine?
Kevin in WA -9A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
We just had a great weekend that I couldn't help but want to share with
everyone. This RV-8A is one great aircraft. And a testament to how accurate
Van's numbers are. Last Thursday, at 3:40 PM, we finished the 25 hour test
flight period and a 4:00pm we checked in for The Great Hawaiian Air Race.
Mind you, we had no cross country time in the -8A to use for true numbers so
this race was going to be the first. We used Van's numbers and subtracted
the 15 knots for no leg and wheel fairings. Gang, after 500 NM, we were
within 80 seconds and 1.5 gallons of our guess and placed second out of 35
aircraft. And neither of us had ever raced before. We had estimated 4+20
for the 500 and 38.1 gallons of fuel. At the finish line it took us 4hours
21 minutes and 20 seconds and we burned 36.6 gallons. The power settings
varied from about 50 % power to about 80% power. That works out to an
average of 120 Kts and 8.4 gph. There were no mechanical problems and the
oil temp stayed between 190 and 212 depending on speeds and climbing. The
winds on Friday, the first leg, were 060 at 30+ knots, right in out face,
and on Sunday they were 060 at 15-20 kts.
What a machine, and what a gas. I highly recommend a proficiency race for
anyone who wants to see just how weel your machine is doing and to sharpen
up your planning skills.
One other note here too. I just got notified that I will be transfering to
the Portland FSDO at the end of next month. I will be living in the
Hillsboro area and look forward to meeting everyone up there.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
30 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lycoming on Vernitherms |
Kevin,
In a sense it can hurt the engine in that any moisture in the oil won't burn
off and can cause premature rust.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
>From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming on Vernitherms
>Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 13:08:29 EST
>
>
>Do oil temps less than the desired 180 degree range have adverse effects on
>engine performance or cause premature failure? Will flying around with 140
>degree oil harm the engine?
>Kevin in WA -9A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Subject: | Want to buy Wood prop |
I'm in search of a servicable wood cruise prop for
O-320/160hp RV-4.
Please reply off list to
cengland(at)netdoor.com
or call Charlie at
h 601-879-9596
w 601-351-7066
Thanks
Charlie England
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
I have searched the archives and found that folks like the Aerox and
Mountain High systems. Any Comments? Recommendations?
Aerox
13 Cubic Foot Tank
2 oxysaver cannulas
2 emergency face masks
2 inline adjustable flow meters calibrated to altitude
1 - 2 port regulator
lines etc
2 mounting brackets
Price Aircraft Spruce....$481
Rocky Mountain
14 Cubic Foot Tank
2 oxysaver cannulas
2 emergency face masks
2 inline adjustable flow meters calibrated to altitude
1 - 4 port piston/servo type regulator
lines etc
2 mounting brackets
Price Rocky Mountain....$525
Rick at Rocky Mountain says that their regulator is superior and not as
susceptible to dirt as the butterfly type valves used by Aerox.
Ross
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
Subject: | Re: Position lights |
Yes, sounds right.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Austin wrote:
>
> Hi listers,
> I want to mount nav lights on the fibreglass wingtips.
> I see one wire coming out of the body of the lamp which is the power supply,
> but should I provide a ground wire from the case to the airframe ?
> Looks like the bulb would be grounded by the case internally, but can't get
> to the airframe because of the fibreglass tip....sound right ??
> Austin.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lycoming on Vernitherms |
Do oil temps less than the desired 180 degree range have adverse effects on
>engine performance or cause premature failure? Will flying around with 140
>degree oil harm the engine?
Not directly. The problems are the products of combustion. There is water
and acids that get mixed in with the oil that low temperatures do not allow
to boil off. They can accumulate at low oil temperatures and harm the
engine that way. Eating away at stuff. SO: warming up the engine to higher
temperatures is preferred to get rid of said garbage.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Oil Temp Important |
From: | Gary Graham <beeb(at)teleport.com> |
If you have anything but a new engine from the factory, Please become
familiar with the following Lycoming documents:
S.I. 1008B Oil Cooler Bypass, Thermostatic, Instructions for
Installation
S.I. 1255 Oil Cooler Bypass Valve, Thermostatic, Replacement
S.I. 1423 Oil Cooler Bypass Valve P/N 75944, Thermostatic
S.I. 1316A Oil Cooler Bypass Valve Seat, Repair of
S.B. 518C Thermostatic Valve periodic inspection
There have been at least three systems for oil temp bypass that I have seen.
1. Spring and piston (O-320 E2D et al, circa 1970's)
2. Oil Screen with Thermostatic Bypass
3. Oil Filter with Thermostatic Bypass (going to #'s 2. or 3. requires the
removal of #1.)
4. Other after market systems e.g. Remote Filters
There have been Improved Thermostatic Valves e.g. 75944-1, -YD, -L ;
SL53E19600(no AD that
I know of) CHECK YOUR VALVE(S.B.518C). Please read the above documents.
Beware of outdated or used valves and adaptors.
(these documents may have been updated or new ones issued under the same
subject)
Good Luck finding this stuff at FAA or Local Shop (if you find on-line
please report)
Gary, Hillsboro, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Steve,
We picked up the deluxe (2 piece) Cessna tow bar from ACS - ($35 if I
remember). Works great.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (finishing F/G)
Niantic, CT & (Westerly airport)
p.s. If it doesn't work you're only out the shipping
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: First flight RV-4 N190 DL |
Please pass on our CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE to Dave.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (finishing F/G)
Niantic, CT & (Westerly airport)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | "pre-owned" clekos wanted! |
I'm building 2 wings at once.I NEED MORE CLEKOS! :-)
Anyone wanting to sell any of theirs please contact me off list!
lucky
rv8 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fran Malczynski" <ebafm(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Tony, that's great. Another one for the Empire State. How did you manage to
get a break in the weather to even make a first flight? Here in western NY
we havnen't had a decent flying day in weeks. Congratulations , hopefully
I'll join you in the skies sometime mid year.
Fran Malczynski
Olcott, NY
RV6 - N594EF (finishing the 10,000 details)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Anthony J Castellano" <tcastella(at)juno.com>
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2001 22:00
Subject: RV-List: First Flight
>
> Today I made the first flight of my RV-6 from DXR. It was perfectly
> trimmed and flew
> hands and feet off.
> Engine is a O360-A!A with Airflow Performance fuel injection and
> Electroair (Jeff Rose)
> electronic ignition. Prop is a new Hartzell constant speed.
> Thank you Van for designing a wonderful airplane.
> Tony Castellano
> tcastella(at)juno.com
> Hopewell Junction, NY
> RV-6 N401TC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: A Great Plane |
Mike, I too am interested in what the costs are to get the plane over here
from there. Could you post this on the list?
Thanks,
Kevin in WA.
-9A starting to finish
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Lasar and Rocky Mountain Micromonitor |
Does anyone out there have the temperature sensing Lasar system and the RMI
Micromonitor? I have a two-in-one probe from Unison for plugging into the
CHT fitting on the cylinder . This probe has four wires - two from a
thermistor which tell the Lasar what the CHT is doing and two thermocouple
wires. The problem is that the thermocouple is not of the grounded variety,
which most are. Ron M. told me to try it, and maybe add a resistor to that
probe if it misbehaves, but he wasn't really sure if it would work.
Anyone run into this?
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tom Moore <qba321tm(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: Clecoes for Sale |
Dean,
I'm just getting started, so I'm not familiar with the #3 and #4 terms.
If the #3 is a 3/32 and a #4 is a 1/8, I'd like to take you up on your
offer.
If they are available, I'd like 200 of 3/32 and 100 of the 1/8.
Let me know,
Thanks,
Tom Moore
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: A Great Plane |
Kevin,
20 foot containers are running right around $1200 from Honolulu to Seattle.
Add about $225 for pickup and delivery at this end and then whatever it
would be at that end and lumber for wing and empenage cradles and you have
it.
Mike Robertson
>From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: A Great Plane
>Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 18:19:37 EST
>
>
>Mike, I too am interested in what the costs are to get the plane over here
>from there. Could you post this on the list?
>Thanks,
>Kevin in WA.
>-9A starting to finish
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Initial Engine Run Questions |
After a couple of engine runs on my freshly overhauled O-320, I've got a
couple of questions:
1) I can't get my oil temps up above 120 degrees before my CHT's get to 375
or so, which I'm using as a ground run limit. Lycoming recommends getting
temps to 140 degrees or so during ground runs. I've blocked airflow to the
oil cooler, so what else is a guy to do?
2) I've got one mag and one ElectroAir ignition. At idle, the engine runs
much smoother and will idle at much lower RPM with the Electronic Ignition
(E.I.)than it will with the mag. I expected this. The odd thing is that I
get an RPM increase when I shut the E.I. off during a runup. The only thing
I can think of (and Jeff Rose agreed with this) is that the E.I. may be
miss-timed. It doesn't seem to be a fouling problem, as the engine is still
very smooth. Are there any other possibilities beyond a timing issue?
3) How long am I gonna have to put up with smoke from *curing* engine
enamel or fingerprints. After my last (warmest) engine run, I was, um,
apprehensive because of the amount of smoke coming from the intakes on
shut-down... And, no, it didn't smell like burning oil...
An observation: If the plane flys as good as it taxis, I'll never make a bad
landing...
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | Re: Lycoming on Vernitherms |
Kevin,
If you shut off ( or nearly so ) the flow through the cooler, the oil that's
in there could sludge up on you and not want to flow when you open it later
at lower altitude and perhaps warmer temperature. Personally, I like the
idea of controling the airflow better.
On another note; a friend of mine rode his Triumph Trident motorcyle through
the mountains of Colorado with snow on the ground and siezed his engine. So
he removed his oil tank and cooked it over a fire on the side of the road
until the oil was liquid again. He covered the cooler completely and rode
away. About six months later it siezed again probably from bearing damage
incurred the first time.
Ed Holyoke
----- Original Message -----
From: <Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2001 8:39 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming on Vernitherms
>
> This has been a pretty interesting thread to say the least. It appears
those
> trying to control the air flow across the cooler itself have been correct.
> Lets add another wrinkle to this solution, instead of controlling the air,
> how about installing a ball valve right at the oil cooler which would
direct
> all, some, or none of the oil either through the cooler or divert back
into
> the return line. This valve would be controlled from the cockpit via a
cable.
> Just like the valves that control the hot water that flows to the heater
> cores of our millions of automobiles. Same principle, different objective.
> Boy, ya gotta love the experimental category.
> Kevin Shannon
> -9A getting ready to hang engine and
> planning oil cooler mounting logistics
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Earl Fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Help! RV-4 Fuse Bulkhead Line Up Problem |
I sent a pic to your email site of my RV4 on the inside where the 413
angle meets F404. Hope it helps. Just wanted you to know because I
dont open attachments from people I dont know.
Cheers, Earl RV4
N8292W(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> OK, I have a problem and can't figure it out. I was wondering if anyone else
> had this problem.
>
> On my RV-4 Fuse, the .125 AL angle on F413 does not line up with the .063
> angle on F404. These AL angle should meet approx. 90 degrees and have one
> rivet attaching them. They are about 1/4 off or so and thus I cannot get a
> rivet between them. I have the F413 aligned with the bottom of the firewall
> and the bottom of F404, but the top side appears to be 1/4 too tall thus not
> permitting the AL angles to line up.
>
> I am having the same problem on the back side, the AL angle on the F415 does
> not line up well with the .063 angle on the back of F404. Again the F415 is
> lined up on the bottom of F404 and F407, but it too appears too tall as the
> AL angle on F415 is higher than the attaching angle on the back of F404.
>
> I assume that is a very important rivet as it ties the heavy AL angle from
> the firewall to the wingspar and then back to F407. Is it safe to just rivet
> the rest of the rib bulkheads but not the AL angles together? Any
> help/advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
> -Mike
> was doing good on the fuse, now frustrated....
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
Subject: | Re: Oxygen Systems |
Before you buy, check the price at Chief. They had the 22 liter Aerox system
for the same price as the 13 liter.
Brian Eckstein
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
To those that were interested, I just finished uploading a series of
pictures of my engine compartment. These include photos of the springs
on the throttle arm and mixture arm (although we know these aren't
needed), photos of my oil cooler installation with cockpit controlled
door controlling air into the cooler, and my gascolator installation
which allows me to drain the gascolator via a small trap door in the
side of the cowling.
Go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-6and6a/files
Look for N417G - Randy Pflanzer's RV-6 and click on it.
Then look for N417G (RV-6) Engine Details. The pictures are in this
folder.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (120 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Oxygen Systems |
> Before you buy, check the price at Chief. They had the 22 liter Aerox
system
> for the same price as the 13 liter.
>
> Brian Eckstein
I have decided on the 13-14 cf because it fits my profile better. The only
difference in the Rocky Mountain and Aerox systems is the regulator. Is the
piston driven Rocky Mountain better as advertised by them?
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Another first flight. |
RV8 N83JD flys! It flew perfect. Almost no trim adjustment needed. We
did have one small problem. There was oil on the belly. Luckily I had a
chase plane to alert me to the potential problem. After landing ( a
perfect 10) we pulled the cowl only to find the right side mag laying in
the cowl. WOW!
This engine is a hopped up 360 with LASAR ignition. There was no power
loss at all. I cant decide if this is good or bad. Not sure why the nuts
came loose as there where installed by the shop that installed the
LASAR. The big lesson here is to keep the first flight short.I like to
keep them down 30 min. max. Also ,if you can get a chase plane, it is
invaluable. Had it not been for my chase, I would have been up there
fat, dumb, and happy.TerryB.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Too Short Cam-Loc Fasteners |
> Same problem here too, but I didn't want to grind down the inside like
> Randall because the interior of my cowling is PAINTED so I went with
the -4s
> also.
I guess I wasn't clear. What I ground down was the camlock receptacle
itself -- the base of it where it gets riveted to the door. Not saying
going with -4s is wrong either but it saved me having to order the other
ones.
Randall
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Oxygen Systems |
In a message dated 2/20/01 6:20:46 PM Pacific Standard Time,
BSEckstein(at)cs.com writes:
<< Before you buy, check the price at Chief. They had the 22 liter Aerox
system
for the same price as the 13 liter. >>
FYI, the capacity of these O2 cylinders is measured in cf (cu ft), not
liters. You're going to get people confused. Indeed one of the 22 cu ft
cylinders (the M size) is a good fit for the RV if you do a lot of high
altitude cruising. I make several trips per year over the tall stuff here in
CA and installed the Aerox 13 cu ft (the D size), as it takes up a little
less room in the luggage area.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 2/20/01 7:23:11 AM Pacific Standard Time,
SSoule(at)pfclaw.com writes:
<< Has anyone out there in the e-world found a tow bar that works well for a
RV-6A? If so, where did you get it? >>
Ken Barto makes a good one, but I recommend the heavy duty one for regular
use. Ken is listed in the Yeller Pages under JAK's Products.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken Glover" <wirraway2(at)bravo.net.au> |
Subject: | Re: First Flight |
<< trimmed and flew
> hands and feet off.>>>
Congratulations and well done.........
Cheers,
Ken Glover Hunter Valley Australia RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken Glover" <wirraway2(at)bravo.net.au> |
Subject: | Re: Another first flight. |
<<>>
Congratulations and well done.........
Cheers,
Ken Glover Hunter Valley Australia RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Manual Elevator Trim |
From: | Jack <jgh(at)iavbbs.com> |
The feel and simplicity of the manual elevator vernier is great but I'm
trying to eliminate the center console normally used to mount it and the
engine controls. Is it possible to mount all of these controls on a
recessed subpanel hung from the instrument panel without stick
interference? Does anybody have a sketch or photo showing how they did
it? Can the manual trim knob be reduced in diameter?
Jack H.
RV-6A - panel
jgh(at)iavbbs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Randy Simpson <airtime(at)proaxis.com> |
Subject: | Re: Titanium Tie Down winter deal... |
Hi RV-listers,
I thank my recent Ti-down customers for the kind words below.
This is a reminder that my special RV-List wintertime deal is almost over.
Thru the end of this month, my Titanium Ti-downs are $20 off the list price
for RV-list customers. The present price is: $60 for the five coil set
(#5165-3), and $70 for the kit (#5165-3K)(and I pay for the shipping and
handling). Repeat customers reduce those prices by $10. Please send me a
private email for ordering details.
Something to think about...I've had 2 RV-List customers buy a second set to
take to fly-ins to use on the planes on either side of them, to tie their
outer wings down. If the neighbor plane's cheapo doggie tie down breaks,
the plane will flip the opposite way of my customers plane. I like that
kind of thinking *smile*
I've been working extra hard lately, trying to get as many sets/kits made
as possible before Sun-N-Fun. I presently have 40+ sets ready to go, and am
trying to average 2 sets a day on my small scale, one man production line.
Here's a pile of about 30 polished sets:
http://www.airtimemfg.com/Images/pile-o-Ti-downs.jpg
I've also added a new gold/yellow color to the choice for bag color. That
brings it up to 10 different colors available for the bags.
I will probably soon drop the $10 off price for unpolished Ti-downs. I've
made a little machine to polish the coil part of the Ti-downs. This little
machine does a better job than I can do by hand, and it's ALOT easier.
Here's a couple of pics of the machine, before I made a better clamp than
the rubberband method shown.
http://www.airtimemfg.com/Images/polisher1.jpg
http://www.airtimemfg.com/Images/polisher2.jpg
My sales to RV-Listers is slowing, as most people here who like the
Titanium Ti-down idea already have sprung for a kit (I'd estimate 20-25
percent of you), so I'll begin advertising in flying magazines this spring.
Sincerely,
Randy Simpson
Airtime Mfg.
http://www.airtimemfg.com
hopeing to make it to Sun-N-Fun this year,
and deaming of owning and flying my own RV someday...
p.s. I had a computer glitch and lost a block of emails during the flurry
of orders I recieved after my previous spamlike note to the RV-List, so if
you inquired about the Ti-downs and didn't recieve a reply from me, please
re-inquire...Thanks, and sorry for any delay/non reply if you were ignored,
accidently.
--------------------
At 01:53 AM 2/18/01, you wrote:
>We have just rec'd our Ti tie down kit from Randy and we couldn't be more
pleased. I think we've figured out why he provides free shipping - They are
so darn light they look great. The kit which includes a carry bag &
rope is first rate.
>Highly recommended !>ChucK & Dave Rowbotham
>RV-8A ( finishing F/G work )
>
and Robert McCallum wrote:
Couldn't agree more. Randy's tiedowns are beautiful. The complete kit of
three tiedowns, a cheater
bar for extra leverage, the necessary ropes, and the storage bag weigh next
to nothing, nest
together so that they take up virtually no space (they easily fit into a
2.5 x 2.5 x 18 inch box)
and are amazingly strong. The storage bag is equally well made of what
appears to be very durable
material so that not only will it last but it will prevent the tiedowns
from marring your interior.
I highly recommend them to any one interested. BTW he also shipped free to
me in Canada.
Bob
please archive
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "BERNIE KERR" <KERRJB(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Manual Elevator Trim |
Hi Jack,
When I did 60WM, originally ordered manual trim. Changed to electric to
eliminate the console, which is a good idea. I have not been really
satisfied with the electric. If you slow it down to where it is practical at
cruise, it seems too slow when you are slowing down in the pattern and
initiating the flaps (maybe a variable speed switch?)
Am currently helping a friend with a 6QB and we are going to try a 24 inch
shorter cable and let it come out of the spar under the pilot's right knee.
We will move the fuel selector to the right a few inches so that the pilot
can reach down by his right leg and twist the trim knob. There is not any
normal ergonomic reaction as to which way to twist the knob, so even though
this will be reversed to the current direction do not beleive this will be a
problem.
Bernie Kerr, 6A flying, SE Fla
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack" <jgh(at)iavbbs.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 6:07 AM
Subject: RV-List: Manual Elevator Trim
>
> The feel and simplicity of the manual elevator vernier is great but I'm
> trying to eliminate the center console normally used to mount it and the
> engine controls. Is it possible to mount all of these controls on a
> recessed subpanel hung from the instrument panel without stick
> interference? Does anybody have a sketch or photo showing how they did
> it? Can the manual trim knob be reduced in diameter?
>
> Jack H.
> RV-6A - panel
> jgh(at)iavbbs.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Another first flight. |
Terry,
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!!!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (finishing F/G)
Niantic, CT
>From: "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net>
>
>RV8 N83JD flys! It flew perfect. Almost no trim adjustment needed. We
>did have one small problem. There was oil on the belly. Luckily I had a
>chase plane to alert me to the potential problem. After landing ( a
>perfect 10) we pulled the cowl only to find the right side mag laying in
>the cowl. WOW!
>This engine is a hopped up 360 with LASAR ignition. There was no power
>loss at all. I cant decide if this is good or bad. Not sure why the nuts
>came loose as there where installed by the shop that installed the
>LASAR. The big lesson here is to keep the first flight short.I like to
>keep them down 30 min. max. Also ,if you can get a chase plane, it is
>invaluable. Had it not been for my chase, I would have been up there
>fat, dumb, and happy.TerryB.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | Re: Manual Elevator Trim |
Jack,
I'm planning to do a trim lever in the armrest. Positive, intuititive and
much lighter than that big heavy vernier cable. I bet you could do the same
thing between the seats if you're carefull to avoid the push/pull tube. Or
you could get a shorter vernier cable and set it facing forward between the
seats in front of the electric flap mechanizm (if so equipped). I've seen
them set in the fuel selector console, too. Sit in the airplane and let your
mind run wild. You can probably come up with more ideas and one of them
might work for you.
Ed Holyoke
RV-6 QB push/pull tube
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack" <jgh(at)iavbbs.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 3:07 AM
Subject: RV-List: Manual Elevator Trim
>
> The feel and simplicity of the manual elevator vernier is great but I'm
> trying to eliminate the center console normally used to mount it and the
> engine controls. Is it possible to mount all of these controls on a
> recessed subpanel hung from the instrument panel without stick
> interference? Does anybody have a sketch or photo showing how they did
> it? Can the manual trim knob be reduced in diameter?
>
> Jack H.
> RV-6A - panel
> jgh(at)iavbbs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Another first flight. |
In a message dated 2/20/01 10:54:20 PM Central Standard Time,
rv6man(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< RV8 N83JD flys! >>
Terry,
Congratulations and thanks for the great tip.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Finish Kit - hanging engine)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
GV wrote:
> Ken Barto makes a good one, but I recommend the heavy duty one for regular
> use. Ken is listed in the Yeller Pages under JAK's Products.
I wondered. I just got a Barto Tobar :-) and it is very professionally
made and nice and light for hauling around. I might make a heavier one for
the hangar of heavier stuff.
Ken's design is a U with a T. The U has pins, one fixed, one moveable, at
the ends. The pins go INTO the sockets of the Allen bolts that hold on the
nose wheel skirt. The T handle attaches to the curve of the U, of course.
One big sweeping bend (the U) and two welds does it.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "skybolt-aviator" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
Yes,the deluxe cessna towbar as shown on page 490 of aircraft spruce catalog
(p/n13-01540).The bottom lugs may need slight modifacation.I also made
overcenter bar to hold it open to attach to nosewheel.I can explain better
over phone ,813 633 0250.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 10:21 AM
Subject: RV-List: Tow Bar
>
> Listers:
>
> Has anyone out there in the e-world found a tow bar that works well for a
> RV-6A? If so, where did you get it?
>
> Steve
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
I just finished installing my landing gear on the RV-6A and have noticed that
for some reason the bolt that holds the right one is a little loose in the
hole. The left one is tight enough that I had to lightly tap the bolt in
with a wooden mallet. Funny thing is, I used the same 5/16" drill bit for
both so i can't figure how one is loose and the other tight. Anyway, I put
it all together and torqued the nuts down to 90 inch pounds and it still has
play. I can move the wheel about 1/32" back and forth (toe in and toe out).
I searched the archives and found two possible solutions. One is to put a
tack weld at the top of the gear where the mount and gear leg meet. The
other is a taper pin sold by ACS that has threads on one end and is tapered
to fit the hole after using a special taper reamer on it.
Anyone have suggestions or recommendations? I'll call Vans and see what they
say also.
Thanks guys (and/or gals),
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Finish Kit - slop in gear leg)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Initial Engine Run Questions |
KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> After a couple of engine runs on my freshly overhauled O-320, I've got a
> couple of questions:
>
> 1) I can't get my oil temps up above 120 degrees before my CHT's get to 375
> or so, which I'm using as a ground run limit. Lycoming recommends getting
> temps to 140 degrees or so during ground runs. I've blocked airflow to the
> oil cooler, so what else is a guy to do?
Fly the engine. Unless you have a proper cooling setup extended ground runs can
cause more damage that good. Oil temps usually take about 20 minutes flight
time to stabalize. Without proper equipment you can't get rated HP on the
ground hence the oil temps will never come up.
>
>
> 2) I've got one mag and one ElectroAir ignition. At idle, the engine runs
> much smoother and will idle at much lower RPM with the Electronic Ignition
> (E.I.)than it will with the mag. I expected this. The odd thing is that I
> get an RPM increase when I shut the E.I. off during a runup. The only thing
> I can think of (and Jeff Rose agreed with this) is that the E.I. may be
> miss-timed. It doesn't seem to be a fouling problem, as the engine is still
> very smooth. Are there any other possibilities beyond a timing issue?
Timing is the problem. Have you checked that the MAP sensor on the EI is
getting vacuum? If the sensor has no input then your timing on the EI is about
6 degrees shy of what it should be, or at the initial setting of around 18
BTDC.
>
>
> 3) How long am I gonna have to put up with smoke from *curing* engine
> enamel or fingerprints. After my last (warmest) engine run, I was, um,
> apprehensive because of the amount of smoke coming from the intakes on
> shut-down... And, no, it didn't smell like burning oil...
Granted the paint has to cure but how hot do you really think that engine is
getting without proper coolling airflow. Limit ground testing to breaking in
the brake pads and one hi speed handling test. These engines need 75% or higher
power settings and proper cooling for break in or youll glaze the cylinders and
never get proper oil control. On Chrome majors short to no ground runs are
even more important. Fly the airplane, or cook the engine on the ground.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Manual Elevator Trim |
From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
02/21/2001 09:55:51 AM
Jack, your trim lever in the arm rest sounds like a good idea. You could
use a Van's throttle quadrant with just one lever. Would make a nice
smoothly tensioned trim mechanism. You would sure want to protect it so you
could not inadvertantly bump it. That could be real bad at 200MPH.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Any chance of posting a picture of it?
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 44 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: kempthornes <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Date: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 8:22 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tow Bar
>
>GV wrote:
>> Ken Barto makes a good one, but I recommend the heavy duty one for
regular
>> use. Ken is listed in the Yeller Pages under JAK's Products.
>
>I wondered. I just got a Barto Tobar :-) and it is very professionally
>made and nice and light for hauling around. I might make a heavier one for
>the hangar of heavier stuff.
>
>Ken's design is a U with a T. The U has pins, one fixed, one moveable, at
>the ends. The pins go INTO the sockets of the Allen bolts that hold on the
>nose wheel skirt. The T handle attaches to the curve of the U, of course.
>One big sweeping bend (the U) and two welds does it.
>
>Hal Kempthorne
>RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Manual Elevator Trim |
The trim lever works well in my friend's -4. I would be concerned with
overcontrolling using a trim lever on a 6A. I wonder if there are any 6es
flying with a trim lever. I'd like to hear from you.
Let me give you an example of the extreme sensitivity of my 6A to pitch
trim. I have the Gretz electric trim mounted in the tail cone. It uses a
Mac 8 servo with a displacement of 1.8 inches. It takes about 22 seconds to
travel the 1.8 inches. I want to tell you that 22 seconds seems like an
eternity when you are executing a touch-and-go or go-around.
At level cruise the shortest possible blip on the trim toggle switch
invariably overcontrols the pitch trim! I go from 100 fpm up to 100 fpm
down, and back and forth, back and forth .... Now it seems to me that I am
blipping for an effective pulse duration of only 1 nanosecond, but lets be
realistic and say my blips are 50 milliseconds in duration. Then the trim
cable is displaced
(1.8 inches)x(0.05 second/22 seconds) = 0.005 inch. It seems to me that it
would be hard to achieve this kind of vernier control with a trim lever.
The next time I have the tail fairing off I'll measure the minimum servo
displacement with a dial gauge and see what it is. Maybe another lister can
do it sooner and report the results.
Note by the way that I spent my first 200 hours or so of flying in a C150
that was out of rig. I had to constantly apply aileron correction. It was
not until I worked on my instrument rating in that plane that I learned the
need to properly trim a plane. I realize that many RV pilots fly with their
planes slightly out of trim and it doesn't matter a bit to them. For those
of you "picky" guys like me that want the plane to fly hands-off in calm
air, be aware that achieving perfect pitch trim is not as easy as it might
seem.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 44 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Date: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 8:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Manual Elevator Trim
>
>Jack,
>I'm planning to do a trim lever in the armrest. Positive, intuititive and
>much lighter than that big heavy vernier cable. I bet you could do the same
>thing between the seats if you're carefull to avoid the push/pull tube. Or
>you could get a shorter vernier cable and set it facing forward between the
>seats in front of the electric flap mechanizm (if so equipped). I've seen
>them set in the fuel selector console, too. Sit in the airplane and let
your
>mind run wild. You can probably come up with more ideas and one of them
>might work for you.
>Ed Holyoke
>RV-6 QB push/pull tube
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jack" <jgh(at)iavbbs.com>
>To: "RV-list"
>Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 3:07 AM
>Subject: RV-List: Manual Elevator Trim
>
>
>>
>> The feel and simplicity of the manual elevator vernier is great but I'm
>> trying to eliminate the center console normally used to mount it and the
>> engine controls. Is it possible to mount all of these controls on a
>> recessed subpanel hung from the instrument panel without stick
>> interference? Does anybody have a sketch or photo showing how they did
>> it? Can the manual trim knob be reduced in diameter?
>>
>> Jack H.
>> RV-6A - panel
>> jgh(at)iavbbs.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chris Browne" <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Pneumatic Squeezer - Sold/C-Frame still available |
Thanks for the response on the squeezer, it has sold.
The C-frame tool is still available, $129 new will take $75.
Chris Browne
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Manual Elevator Trim |
[snip]
> Is it possible to mount all of these controls on a
> recessed subpanel hung from the instrument panel without stick
> interference? Does anybody have a sketch or photo showing how they did
> it?
See http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/instp.html for how I did it.
> Can the manual trim knob be reduced in diameter?
Probably, although I didn't.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | exhaust failure..high EGT's |
Thread-Topic: exhaust failure..high EGT's
Thread-Index: AcCcIpsC6cklvW5wRjW3NRXd6Hl10w=
From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Over the weekend, I had the #3 crossover pipe fail on my Vetterman
exhaust. I was pretty close to my airport but other that a few moments
of excitement trying to figure out what was going on the expedited
landing was a non-event. Sure made a bunch of noise and the cowl
vibrated quite a bit. Good thing there was no fire because the way the
weld broke exhaust gases were pointed right at the carb.
I spoke to Larry this morning as he was out of town for several days,
and out of the 4000+ exhaust systems he's built, there's only one that
has failed in the same manner mine has, in the area along the weld where
the #4 crossover pipe connects to the #3 exhaust on the right side. The
exhaust has 85 hours on it. When I pulled the cowl the pipe fell to the
floor--it completely broke off. So, guys don't get your shorts in a wad
and flood Larry or Van's or whoever with phone calls about this...it's
truly an anomaly. I noticed a small crack along the weld some time ago,
and have had others look at the tiny hairline crack that appeared. Both
people told me to not worry about it; just keep an eye on it, if there's
evidence of exhaust leaking out the crack then worry about it. I made a
mistake in not listening to myself and had it repaired.
So, on now to the cause. I think the failure was metallurgical in
nature; either the pipe was not stress relieved correctly or there were
faults in the composition of the stainless. I don't think the weld
itself was bad, or caused by high EGT's (which, by the way, I discovered
during this ordeal.) I agreed to remove the exhaust and send it to
Larry for repairs. It sucks to be down again for another week and a
half, but surely he'll fix what's broken and make it better.
On topic I brought up in my conversation with Larry was having Jet-Hot
coat my exhaust...His response was pretty much like 'hell no' based on
opinions he got on the subject from a metallurgist with an extensive
background in turbines.
Now, on to my question. In discussing this failure with several people,
unbeknownst previously to me I am running excessively high EGT's
Typically in cruise my hottest cylinders run around 1520, burning
9.2-9.5 gal/hr (75% @ 3000ft) leaned out to roughness then backing off a
little. CHT's run in the 320-370 range. My engine is a carbureted
O-360, Electroair ignition, and runs very smooth in cruise. Two of the
opinions I have received so far indicate a carburetor jetting problem,
or maybe a problem with the 100LL I'm getting. According to the source
of the latter, some manufacturers of avgas are using increased amounts
of toluene in their fuel to combat lead fouling, and the side-effect is
hotter EGT's. I'm not sure if I buy into that one. Seems to me I have
a carb problem. With that being said in my long diatribe here, is there
a way to check the jetting of the carb without sending it off to
precision airmotive? I've thumbed through the carb overhaul manual and
really don't want to 'fix what's not broke' in doing a complete
overhaul. It is easy to check and adjust the jetting without
dismantling the carb, if jetting can be a probable cause of my high
EGT's?
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Wobble |
Eric wrote:
> I just finished installing my landing gear on the RV-6A and have noticed
that
> for some reason the bolt that holds the right one is a little loose in the
> hole. The left one is tight enough that I had to lightly tap the bolt in
> with a wooden mallet. Funny thing is, I used the same 5/16" drill bit for
> both so i can't figure how one is loose and the other tight.
More precise holes require something other than drill bits, especially in
hard to drill materials. Reamers, for example. Maybe the plans should
call for reaming here?
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: exhaust failure..high EGT's |
Run LOP WOT Lean Of Peak, Wide Open Throttle
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 10:23 AM
Subject: RV-List: exhaust failure..high EGT's
>
> Over the weekend, I had the #3 crossover pipe fail on my Vetterman
> exhaust. I was pretty close to my airport but other that a few moments
> of excitement trying to figure out what was going on the expedited
> landing was a non-event. Sure made a bunch of noise and the cowl
> vibrated quite a bit. Good thing there was no fire because the way the
> weld broke exhaust gases were pointed right at the carb.
>
> I spoke to Larry this morning as he was out of town for several days,
> and out of the 4000+ exhaust systems he's built, there's only one that
> has failed in the same manner mine has, in the area along the weld where
> the #4 crossover pipe connects to the #3 exhaust on the right side. The
> exhaust has 85 hours on it. When I pulled the cowl the pipe fell to the
> floor--it completely broke off. So, guys don't get your shorts in a wad
> and flood Larry or Van's or whoever with phone calls about this...it's
> truly an anomaly. I noticed a small crack along the weld some time ago,
> and have had others look at the tiny hairline crack that appeared. Both
> people told me to not worry about it; just keep an eye on it, if there's
> evidence of exhaust leaking out the crack then worry about it. I made a
> mistake in not listening to myself and had it repaired.
>
> So, on now to the cause. I think the failure was metallurgical in
> nature; either the pipe was not stress relieved correctly or there were
> faults in the composition of the stainless. I don't think the weld
> itself was bad, or caused by high EGT's (which, by the way, I discovered
> during this ordeal.) I agreed to remove the exhaust and send it to
> Larry for repairs. It sucks to be down again for another week and a
> half, but surely he'll fix what's broken and make it better.
>
> On topic I brought up in my conversation with Larry was having Jet-Hot
> coat my exhaust...His response was pretty much like 'hell no' based on
> opinions he got on the subject from a metallurgist with an extensive
> background in turbines.
>
> Now, on to my question. In discussing this failure with several people,
> unbeknownst previously to me I am running excessively high EGT's
> Typically in cruise my hottest cylinders run around 1520, burning
> 9.2-9.5 gal/hr (75% @ 3000ft) leaned out to roughness then backing off a
> little. CHT's run in the 320-370 range. My engine is a carbureted
> O-360, Electroair ignition, and runs very smooth in cruise. Two of the
> opinions I have received so far indicate a carburetor jetting problem,
> or maybe a problem with the 100LL I'm getting. According to the source
> of the latter, some manufacturers of avgas are using increased amounts
> of toluene in their fuel to combat lead fouling, and the side-effect is
> hotter EGT's. I'm not sure if I buy into that one. Seems to me I have
> a carb problem. With that being said in my long diatribe here, is there
> a way to check the jetting of the carb without sending it off to
> precision airmotive? I've thumbed through the carb overhaul manual and
> really don't want to 'fix what's not broke' in doing a complete
> overhaul. It is easy to check and adjust the jetting without
> dismantling the carb, if jetting can be a probable cause of my high
> EGT's?
>
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
Subject: | Manual Elevator Trim |
I like the roll wheel like in my 172. I wonder if something like that could
be retro-fitted. I'll have to look into it.
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 6:58 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Manual Elevator Trim
Jack, your trim lever in the arm rest sounds like a good idea. You could
use a Van's throttle quadrant with just one lever. Would make a nice
smoothly tensioned trim mechanism. You would sure want to protect it so you
could not inadvertantly bump it. That could be real bad at 200MPH.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: IK Technologies Engine Monitor (EIS input) |
In a message dated 2/20/01 1:35:35 AM Pacific Standard Time,
KERRJB(at)email.msn.com writes:
<< I continue to find neat things that my EIS does. I just installed Van's new
fuel gages that work with the original senders and decided to see how good
they were at "zero" fuel pick up. ---SNIP--- NEAT to have
two independent systems saying hey, you are running a fuel tank dry. >>
Bernie: I have decided to go with the EIS monitor based on all the
capabilities I have read of and this sounds like icing on the cake, but help
me out with something. My ignorance, but I don't understand what you did.
Does the EIS have fuel quantity monitoring capability, and if so why did you
install the Van's gages? Also, if so, are the gages and the EIS connected in
parallel to the original senders. Thanks.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Tank screws - lose fit |
In a message dated 2/20/01 8:12:26 AM Pacific Standard Time,
DThomas773(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< I'm hoping those with some experience can pass on some info. >>
O.K., I don't know if this will be any help or not but I'll toss it in
anyway. Awhile back I found that I had somehow mixed some -3 nutplates in
with my -08s. They look very similar at first glance. The way I discovered
this was because of my habit of running a short -08 screw into my nutplates
to secure them before riveting them. The short screw would not tighten up
because it had not engaged the locking part of the nutplate and was slightly
stripping. I hope this is not your problem but if so better to find it now!
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Subject: | exhaust failure..high EGT's |
Bob,
How about describing you EGT setup to us to help with ideas.
What type and brand of system are you using?
How far down from the exhaust flange are the probes mounted.
Anything else that is "different" than other systems you've seen?
Is it just one cylinder or all of them running high?
What do the plugs look like?
I've always heard that the absolute # you see isn't really critical, as different
positions (vertically along the exhaust) of the thermocouples will have great
differences in measurement. It's really the difference (delta) that is important
for trouble shooting.
I get the feeling that you probably would have burnt a piston (just my opinion)
by now if you really were running that hot.
I normally see 1375 when peaked at cruise on my O-360 A1A. I would be worried
about seeing an absolute #'s in the 1500's.
BTW, I have Jet Hot 2000 deg coating on my Vetterman exhaust. I would not do it
again on a stainless ehaust (although I would if it were mild steel).
From what I've heard from welders, you can not reweld once the coating has been
applied. So if it breaks, I get to get a new one. This comes from a gent on
the field (who fabricates stainless exhausts for EZ's) and has tried to repair
such.
It does look good though.
Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 165 hrs (still hurting from Earnhardt's death)
O-360, Sensenich (83)
Simi Valley, SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Avery Tools - Support These Good People |
I just finished speaking with Bob Avery from Avery Tools.
Best to start at the beginning of the story. I purchased my plane already
flying so I didn't know which pads to get for the RV. I called Spruce.
They didn't know which pads were for the RV. I called Vans, they said
"call Avery". I called Avery and they knew EXACTLY what I needed. Even
mentioned a brake pad tool they had for $26. Fine. Sold. The pad kit
included the CORRECT rivets and the pads. With the tool, I was good to go.
I screwed up. I squeezed too hard with the tool. I broke one of the anvils
that is used to push the old rivet out and later, managed to crush a pad.
(wrist wasn't calibrated properly yet) I called Avery asking for
assistance. I got a very nice, helpful girl who really couldn't answer my
questions. She wasn't sure about splitting up a kit, and had no idea how
to get parts for the tool. BUT she did the next best thing. She promised
to get back to me. She didn't, instead the Boss called me back. Bob
offered to send me a pad and 3 rivets for 1/4 of the full cost of a kit and
offered to make a replacement anvil on his lathe, NO CHARGE. Jesus, thats
service, if there is EVER anything I need, and Avery tools carries it, I
will buy it from them.
Keep in mind, they didn't fix their own screw ups, they fixed MY screw ups.
Good people. Buy lots of stuff from them.
Best regards,
Don Mei
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | GRT manifold pressure hookup |
How are folks securing the manifold pressure box for the GRT 4000 engine
monitor? There are no holes or mounting brackets on this little baby.
Also, how are you plumbing it? Are you using a standard flare fitting into
the engine then transitioning somehow to the barb fitting of the unit?
Ross
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis /Fran Flamini" <flamini2(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: exhaust failure..high EGT's |
i have an IO-360 wiyh CS and 1750hrs with two cracked pipes on same side in
same place, it's my opinion you don,t have to look any further than how the
pipes are supported and what RPM you run at. Most times i have just put a
flex conn where it cracked and that solved the problem, Dennis RV-10
Chicago----- Original Message -----
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 11:33 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: exhaust failure..high EGT's
>
> Run LOP WOT Lean Of Peak, Wide Open Throttle
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 10:23 AM
> Subject: RV-List: exhaust failure..high EGT's
>
>
> >
> > Over the weekend, I had the #3 crossover pipe fail on my Vetterman
> > exhaust. I was pretty close to my airport but other that a few moments
> > of excitement trying to figure out what was going on the expedited
> > landing was a non-event. Sure made a bunch of noise and the cowl
> > vibrated quite a bit. Good thing there was no fire because the way the
> > weld broke exhaust gases were pointed right at the carb.
> >
> > I spoke to Larry this morning as he was out of town for several days,
> > and out of the 4000+ exhaust systems he's built, there's only one that
> > has failed in the same manner mine has, in the area along the weld where
> > the #4 crossover pipe connects to the #3 exhaust on the right side. The
> > exhaust has 85 hours on it. When I pulled the cowl the pipe fell to the
> > floor--it completely broke off. So, guys don't get your shorts in a wad
> > and flood Larry or Van's or whoever with phone calls about this...it's
> > truly an anomaly. I noticed a small crack along the weld some time ago,
> > and have had others look at the tiny hairline crack that appeared. Both
> > people told me to not worry about it; just keep an eye on it, if there's
> > evidence of exhaust leaking out the crack then worry about it. I made a
> > mistake in not listening to myself and had it repaired.
> >
> > So, on now to the cause. I think the failure was metallurgical in
> > nature; either the pipe was not stress relieved correctly or there were
> > faults in the composition of the stainless. I don't think the weld
> > itself was bad, or caused by high EGT's (which, by the way, I discovered
> > during this ordeal.) I agreed to remove the exhaust and send it to
> > Larry for repairs. It sucks to be down again for another week and a
> > half, but surely he'll fix what's broken and make it better.
> >
> > On topic I brought up in my conversation with Larry was having Jet-Hot
> > coat my exhaust...His response was pretty much like 'hell no' based on
> > opinions he got on the subject from a metallurgist with an extensive
> > background in turbines.
> >
> > Now, on to my question. In discussing this failure with several people,
> > unbeknownst previously to me I am running excessively high EGT's
> > Typically in cruise my hottest cylinders run around 1520, burning
> > 9.2-9.5 gal/hr (75% @ 3000ft) leaned out to roughness then backing off a
> > little. CHT's run in the 320-370 range. My engine is a carbureted
> > O-360, Electroair ignition, and runs very smooth in cruise. Two of the
> > opinions I have received so far indicate a carburetor jetting problem,
> > or maybe a problem with the 100LL I'm getting. According to the source
> > of the latter, some manufacturers of avgas are using increased amounts
> > of toluene in their fuel to combat lead fouling, and the side-effect is
> > hotter EGT's. I'm not sure if I buy into that one. Seems to me I have
> > a carb problem. With that being said in my long diatribe here, is there
> > a way to check the jetting of the carb without sending it off to
> > precision airmotive? I've thumbed through the carb overhaul manual and
> > really don't want to 'fix what's not broke' in doing a complete
> > overhaul. It is easy to check and adjust the jetting without
> > dismantling the carb, if jetting can be a probable cause of my high
> > EGT's?
> >
> > Bob Japundza
> > RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | IK Technologies Engine Monitor (EIS input) |
My EIS4000 has the fuel flow/totalizer option but I also elected to install
Van's gauges. Just in case the EIS goes TU, if I've got a little battery
power left, I'll at least know my fuel state. Gauges will also show a fuel
leak that totalizers won't. They also satisfy the FAR requirement (OK, maybe
it is, maybe it isn't) for a fuel level indicator in case the DAR won't
accept a totalizer. I have every option Grand Rapids offers for the EIS and
still have 2 aux inputs available so... I could <
> route the
senders in parallel to the aux's to get the quantity displayed on the EIS -
but I'll leave that for someone else to work out.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) final systems, waiting on engine
>
> In a message dated 2/20/01 1:35:35 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> KERRJB(at)email.msn.com writes:
>
> << I continue to find neat things that my EIS does. I just
> installed Van's new
> fuel gages that work with the original senders and decided
> to see how good
> they were at "zero" fuel pick up. ---SNIP--- NEAT to have
> two independent systems saying hey, you are running a fuel
> tank dry. >>
>
> Bernie: I have decided to go with the EIS monitor based
> on all the
> capabilities I have read of and this sounds like icing on the
> cake, but help
> me out with something. My ignorance, but I don't understand
> what you did.
> Does the EIS have fuel quantity monitoring capability, and if
> so why did you
> install the Van's gages? Also, if so, are the gages and the
> EIS connected in
> parallel to the original senders. Thanks.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, finish kit stuff
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | GRT manifold pressure hookup |
I mounted it with Velcro. Pop-riveted 2 strips of Velcro to the rib and
wrapped it around both ends of the box. Looks weird but the box is light and
my pull test indicates it should be good for 10g+. I ran the rubber hose
through the firewall and am also need to deal with the transition to the
engine when I get my engine back.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) wiring & systems
>
> How are folks securing the manifold pressure box for the GRT
> 4000 engine
> monitor? There are no holes or mounting brackets on this little baby.
> Also, how are you plumbing it? Are you using a standard
> flare fitting into
> the engine then transitioning somehow to the barb fitting of the unit?
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | exhaust failure..high EGT's |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: exhaust failure..high EGT's
Thread-Index: AcCcSSSTNlGFTBZMQ5+W51eNRvREKgAAK4EQ
From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
> How about describing you EGT setup to us to help with ideas.
>
> What type and brand of system are you using?
Audio Flight Avionics AV-10, 4 EGT's, 4 CHT's, probes are
grounded-type Westach brand
> How far down from the exhaust flange are the probes mounted.
About 3 inches
> Anything else that is "different" than other systems you've seen?
Nope
> Is it just one cylinder or all of them running high?
The rear cylinders run slightly higher, but even the front
cylinders run in the high 1400's
> What do the plugs look like?
They have a light brown color to them, just like they should be
> I've always heard that the absolute # you see isn't really
> critical, as different positions (vertically along the
> exhaust) of the thermocouples will have great differences in
> measurement. It's really the difference (delta) that is
> important for trouble shooting.
I haven't verified whether or not the engine monitor is really
giving me accurate information at those temperatures. Yet.
> I get the feeling that you probably would have burnt a piston
> (just my opinion) by now if you really were running that hot.
I've looked down into the plug holes, and all I've seen is some
lead buildup on the face of the piston. No evidence of burning.
The weird thing about my dilemma is my CHT's seem
normal...320-370 range, #3 will hit 410 on takeoff; which seems to be
normal in a RV.
> I normally see 1375 when peaked at cruise on my O-360 A1A. I
> would be worried about seeing an absolute #'s in the 1500's.
>
> BTW, I have Jet Hot 2000 deg coating on my Vetterman exhaust.
> I would not do it again on a stainless ehaust (although I
> would if it were mild steel).
>
> From what I've heard from welders, you can not reweld once
> the coating has been applied. So if it breaks, I get to get
> a new one. This comes from a gent on the field (who
> fabricates stainless exhausts for EZ's) and has tried to repair such.
>
> It does look good though.
Mine's a nice dull black color now. They did look nice prior to
the first flight.
> Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 165 hrs (still hurting from
> Earnhardt's death)
> O-360, Sensenich (83)
> Simi Valley, SoCal
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Avery Tools - Support These Good People |
From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
02/21/2001 04:25:10 PM
Yep, thats the Bob Avery I know. Just business as usual for them.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | exhaust failure..high EGT's |
Bob: My two cents from past RV experience. My last RV-6 when we were using
the Toole exhaust systems they were failing at the juncture of the exhaust
flanges and also where the two pipes connected at #4 cylinder. This would
happen at about 50 hours. There were a lot of stories where #4 pipe fell
off. Mine cracked at about 60 hours, what I did was remove all of the
pipes and welded a fish mouth support at the base of the cylinder exhaust
flange. After 400 hours no more cracks. The real secret is for the
hangers supporting the pipe needs to be in the same plane as the engine so
it can move with the engine. Your second question was most exhaust leaning
max peak usually occurs at about 1400 degrees. When you lean the engine it
will run smooth on either side of peak, but you really don't want to go
above peak to the lean side. I like to lean to peak and then richen the
mixture 25-50 degrees to stay on the rich side of peak to make sure I stay
away for the danger of detonation, As it is possible to destroy the
cylinder if you operate on the lean side too long. Sorry for the long post,
but I spent my whole life looking at big round engines.
Regards: Harvey Sigmon - RV-6AQB - (In the paint shop, finally) do not
archive
> [Original Message]
> From: Bob Japundza <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
> To:
> Date: 2/21/2001 11:49:35 AM
> Subject: RV-List: exhaust failure..high EGT's
>
> > Bob Japundza
> RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
>
>
>
>
>
>
--- Harvey Sigmon
--- flyhars(at)earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jared Boone" <jboone(at)earfeast.com> |
Subject: | Alodine revelation... |
Perhaps this is common knowledge, but it wasn't for me...
For those of you considering Alumiprep (acid etch) and Alodine (chromate
conversion coating) for your plane, there's a way to avoid buying, handling
and disposing of those chemicals yourself. You may be able to find a local
outfit that will do the process for (what seems to me) a reasonable fee.
Look in the Yellow Pages for companies specializing in "Metal Finishing" or
"Anodizing".
I got some ball-park estimates from a company called Sure Power Industries
(http://www.surepower.com/finishing.html) in Tigard, Oregon. The salesman I
spoke with said they charge $35 per lot (no matter how many pieces). On top
of the lot fee, you pay either per-piece (for very small parts) or by how
much of their tank rack you utilize. As an example, a 12"x12" sheet would
cost about $1.50. A full rack (5ft x 2ft x 8.5ft) runs about $125. He also
said parts with rivet or lightening holes are easier for them to work with
(they'll hang those parts). They do not do any hand prep (filing or
sanding -- no surprise), so you must bring parts in ready for the etch and
conversion coating. Their turnaround is about two days usually (Boeing is
keeping them very busy at the moment, so the wait is more like a week right
now).
They can also do priming, but I think I will do that myself a) because it's
MUCH more expensive to have them do it, and b) they use a primer that may or
may not be compatible with the topcoat I want to use.
I don't see how I can have them Alodine skins. Since Sure Power uses a
tank, I'd presume they'd have to Alodine both sides. And from what I
understand, the conversion coating is fairly fragile -- I wouldn't want my
outer skin surfaces only Alodined while I work with them for months (or
years).
I'm guestimating that my entire empennage (sans skins) will cost probably
$60 to clean/etch/Alodine. While this is certainly more expensive than
doing it myself, I get the peace of mind of knowing it was done by
professionals (to Boeing/MIL specs), the time savings of not having to
develop the expertise myself, and I have fewer toxic chemicals I have to
buy/handle/breathe/explode/dispose of.
Thoughts, opinions? Provided y'all don't talk me out of it, I will post my
experiences to the list.
- Jared Boone
jboone(at)earfeast.com
(RV-8 Empennage)
P.S. I have no affiliation with Sure Power Industries, in case that wasn't
obvious.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
Subject: | RV Panel Visualization Tool |
Well, you didn't ask for it but you got it anyway. Through the magic of
Instant messaging, Bill Vondane and I have collaborated on a web page
that will allow you to play around with different panel scenarios.
Using web magic you can move images of instruments around either an RV6
or RV8 panel and get an idea of how things might look. We've got a
pretty good selection instruments to play with and we can always add
more if there is the need to.
This tool is not meant to replace Panel Planner, Autocad, Vision or any
other tool out there. It's our way of trying to give a little
something back to the RV list and have some fun also.
RV8 Panel http://vondane.com/rv8a/rvpanel/
RV6 Panel http://www.bmnellis.com/rvpanel/
Enjoy yourself and let us know what you think.
Mike & Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Instr Apch Speeds 6A w C/S |
Today in an effort to start regaining my long-lost instrument proficiency
(lost due to too much building and not enough flying) I enlisted the aid of
my trusty safety pilot and went up in the 6A. For starters my safety pilot
asked me to demonstrate that I knew the power settings for a 500 fpm descent
at approach speeds. Fair enough. It turned out I couldn't do it!
I assumed approach speed in my 6A was 90K. I chose this because a) it
seemed reasonable, b) I wanted an approach speed tabulated in the NOS
charts, and c) 60K is too slow and 120K seems too fast.
I have the Hartzell C/S prop that Van sells and an O360A1A. The prop has
the usual prohibition against operation from 2000 to 2250 RPM.
My problem was that at 90K and 500 fpm descent, I was right smack in the
center of the prohibited band! I had set the RPM to 2300 for starters as I
do for normal pattern work, but as I reduced MP to achieve 90K and 500 fpm
descent, the prop could no longer servo and RPM decayed to within the
prohibited band.
Now I realize that a few seconds in the prohibited band is OK and it happens
during each turn to base in the pattern. But in an instrument approach I'd
be in the prohibited zone for several minutes -- say 5 or so for maneuvering
to the FAF and then another 2 1/2 to 3 for the FAF to MAP. This does not
seem OK.
Now I know some 6/6A owners with C/S props fly instruments. My questions
are, what power settings do you use and what speed do you fly the approach?
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 46 hours (all in severe clear VFR)
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV Panel Visualization Tool |
Mike and Bill,
Very cool! And very useful. Only problem I could find is that it does not
function when viewed with Netscape Communicator (tried v. 4.7 and 6.0) It
works as advertised under Internet Explorer 5. Dunno if this is intentional
or not.
Jeff Point
-6 wings
Milwaukee, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
Here's a sale on one at Harbor Freight.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=43430&cid=79
0755
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
Subject: | Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist |
I recently recall a webpage or file that dictates everything I need to have
accomplished, and what paperwork to have done before final inspection.
Anyone know where that is?
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB)Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finishing Up
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV Panel Visualization Tool |
Oh no....the -4 is being left out? Ack....now I really fell abandoned.
:-(
Bill
-4 wings.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 6:09 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV Panel Visualization Tool
>
> Well, you didn't ask for it but you got it anyway. Through the magic of
> Instant messaging, Bill Vondane and I have collaborated on a web page
> that will allow you to play around with different panel scenarios.
> Using web magic you can move images of instruments around either an RV6
> or RV8 panel and get an idea of how things might look. We've got a
> pretty good selection instruments to play with and we can always add
> more if there is the need to.
>
> This tool is not meant to replace Panel Planner, Autocad, Vision or any
> other tool out there. It's our way of trying to give a little
> something back to the RV list and have some fun also.
>
> RV8 Panel http://vondane.com/rv8a/rvpanel/
> RV6 Panel http://www.bmnellis.com/rvpanel/
>
> Enjoy yourself and let us know what you think.
>
> Mike & Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
"Bill VonDane (E-mail)"@matronics.com
Subject: | RV Panel Visualization Tool |
Hey Bill and Mike! What's this? Discriminating against us lowly RV-4
builders? I already have my panel done...it's just the principle of the
thing!
Major :-) for those who don't understand my sarcastic wit.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Nellis [mailto:mnellis(at)peoplepc.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 3:09 PM
To: RV-List
Subject: RV-List: RV Panel Visualization Tool
Well, you didn't ask for it but you got it anyway. Through
the magic of
Instant messaging, Bill Vondane and I have collaborated on a
web page
that will allow you to play around with different panel
scenarios.
Using web magic you can move images of instruments around
either an RV6
or RV8 panel and get an idea of how things might look.
We've got a
pretty good selection instruments to play with and we can
always add
more if there is the need to.
This tool is not meant to replace Panel Planner, Autocad,
Vision or any
other tool out there. It's our way of trying to give a
little
something back to the RV list and have some fun also.
RV8 Panel http://vondane.com/rv8a/rvpanel/
RV6 Panel http://www.bmnellis.com/rvpanel/
Enjoy yourself and let us know what you think.
Mike & Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
> > Ken Barto makes a good one, but I recommend the heavy duty one for
> > regular use. Ken is listed in the Yeller Pages under JAK's
> > Products.
I have Ken's light or medium one (can't remember which). It used to
bend all the time when I tried to use it to turn the nose wheel while
pushing the plane backwards via the prop hub. The tow bar just
wasn't strong enough. I ended up riveting a big piece of aluminum
from the "T" handle all the way down to the "U" saddle that clamps
the wheel. Ugly, but it works.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Alodine revelation... |
> I'm guestimating that my entire empennage (sans skins) will cost probably
> $60 to clean/etch/Alodine. While this is certainly more expensive than
> doing it myself, I get the peace of mind of knowing it was done by
> professionals (to Boeing/MIL specs), the time savings of not having to
> develop the expertise myself, and I have fewer toxic chemicals I have to
> buy/handle/breathe/explode/dispose of.
>
> Thoughts, opinions? Provided y'all don't talk me out of it, I will post
my
> experiences to the list.
>
> - Jared Boone
> jboone(at)earfeast.com
> (RV-8 Empennage)
Jared,
This process sounds like it would yield a very high quality coating. A
couple of downsides however are that it would add considerable time to the
building process over the life of the project with transportation and all,
you'd also probably feel like redoing many parts that you end up modifying
as you assemble them, and you still need to deal with the skins. Why not
just use one of the self-etching primers?
On the other hand, you could do it for your empennage and then decide if you
think it's worth it as you get into your wings and fuselage... you have the
option of changing your mind then.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, finishing details
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "BERNIE KERR" <KERRJB(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Tow Bar(bending problems) |
Same problem my neighbor had with his. My simple one that I made from Home
Depot parts has not shown and tendancy to bend when you are backing the
airplane in soft turf.
Bernie Kerr, 6A flying , SE Fla
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 7:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tow Bar
>
> > > Ken Barto makes a good one, but I recommend the heavy duty one for
> > > regular use. Ken is listed in the Yeller Pages under JAK's
> > > Products.
>
> I have Ken's light or medium one (can't remember which). It used to
> bend all the time when I tried to use it to turn the nose wheel while
> pushing the plane backwards via the prop hub. The tow bar just
> wasn't strong enough. I ended up riveting a big piece of aluminum
> from the "T" handle all the way down to the "U" saddle that clamps
> the wheel. Ugly, but it works.
>
> Tim
>
> ******
> Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
> RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
> http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
> ******
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | RV Panel Visualization Tool |
Ah good...
We need some panel dimensions for an RV3, RV4, and RV-9... Width at the
bottom of the panel will do...
No discrimination intended...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Van Artsdalen,
Scott
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 5.32 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV Panel Visualization Tool
Hey Bill and Mike! What's this? Discriminating against us lowly RV-4
builders? I already have my panel done...it's just the principle of the
thing!
Major :-) for those who don't understand my sarcastic wit.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Nellis [mailto:mnellis(at)peoplepc.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 3:09 PM
To: RV-List
Subject: RV-List: RV Panel Visualization Tool
Well, you didn't ask for it but you got it anyway. Through
the magic of
Instant messaging, Bill Vondane and I have collaborated on a
web page
that will allow you to play around with different panel
scenarios.
Using web magic you can move images of instruments around
either an RV6
or RV8 panel and get an idea of how things might look.
We've got a
pretty good selection instruments to play with and we can
always add
more if there is the need to.
This tool is not meant to replace Panel Planner, Autocad,
Vision or any
other tool out there. It's our way of trying to give a
little
something back to the RV list and have some fun also.
RV8 Panel http://vondane.com/rv8a/rvpanel/
RV6 Panel http://www.bmnellis.com/rvpanel/
Enjoy yourself and let us know what you think.
Mike & Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist |
Paul,
I don't remember where the website is but the paperwork you will need is:
1) The Aircraft's Registration
2) FAA Form 8130-6, Application for Airworthiness Certificate
3) FAA Form 8130-12, Eligibility Statement (must be notarized)
4) Your Aircraft Logbook with the following statement (or something
similiar): "I have inspection this aircraft in accordance with a yearly
condition inspection and have found it to be in a condition for safe
operation", Signature and your SSN, and the word "Builder". You do not have
to have the repairman's certificate for the initial sign-off.
5) A current weight and balance.
6) A test flight program.
7) A three view sketch, drawing, or photograph
8) The data plate (while not paperwork it must be there).
9) And FAA Form 8610-2, Application for Airman's Certificate.
I hope this helps.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
>From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "Rv-List(at)Matronics. Com"
>Subject: RV-List: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist
>Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 17:27:43 -0700
>
>
> I recently recall a webpage or file that dictates everything I need to
>have
> accomplished, and what paperwork to have done before final inspection.
> Anyone know where that is?
>
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB)Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Finishing Up
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Subject: | Internally regulated alternators |
Someone was kind enough to tell me before but I have since lost the email so
perhaps someone can tell me again. I have the internally regulated
alternator that Bart Lablonde uses. Someone told me how to hook it up to
the idiot light but I can't remember now. One side of the light goes to the
alternator and the other side goes to +12 or ground?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Instr Apch Speeds 6A w C/S |
In a message dated 2/21/01 3:52:46 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< I have the Hartzell C/S prop that Van sells and an O360A1A. The prop has
the usual prohibition against operation from 2000 to 2250 RPM.
My problem was that at 90K and 500 fpm descent, I was right smack in the
center of the prohibited band! I had set the RPM to 2300 for starters as I
do for normal pattern work, but as I reduced MP to achieve 90K and 500 fpm
descent, the prop could no longer servo and RPM decayed to within the
prohibited band.
Now I realize that a few seconds in the prohibited band is OK and it happens
during each turn to base in the pattern. But in an instrument approach I'd
be in the prohibited zone for several minutes -- say 5 or so for maneuvering
to the FAF and then another 2 1/2 to 3 for the FAF to MAP. This does not
seem OK.
Now I know some 6/6A owners with C/S props fly instruments. My questions
are, what power settings do you use and what speed do you fly the approach?
>>
My personal take on this is that it is a non-issue. You are not
"continuously" operating in this rpm zone. You are not creating rated thrust
in this rpm zone at these speeds in the RV airframes. Further, the
prohibited rpm zone is 2000 to 2250 not because the whole range is sensitive,
it is likely because the offensive resonant frequency occurs somewhere around
2125 rpm. The manufacturer bilaterally extended the range to provide a
safety band and to account for wide variations in the accuracy of the typical
mechanical tachs of the time.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: exhaust failure..high EGT's |
In a message dated 2/21/01 3:01:06 PM Pacific Standard Time,
flyhars(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< My two cents from past RV experience. My last RV-6 when we were using
the Toole exhaust systems they were failing at the juncture of the exhaust
flanges and also where the two pipes connected at #4 cylinder. >>
Actually, for those searching for data on these failures, they are on the
Tolle (not Toole) exhaust systems.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
Subject: | Re: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist |
Just call your local FSDO and they will send you a packet.
Brian Eckstein
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Manual Elevator Trim |
Bernie,
Why don't you do what I did, use a low range differential press. switch to
automatically switch your trim servo into low speed when above a certain
airspeed (in my case-120MPH). TheD/P switch ties into the pitot and static
lines. It works great. Steve Ave incorporated this into his 8 also.
Bill RV-8 N48WD
----- Original Message -----
From: "BERNIE KERR" <KERRJB(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 7:13 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Manual Elevator Trim
>
> Hi Jack,
>
> When I did 60WM, originally ordered manual trim. Changed to electric to
> eliminate the console, which is a good idea. I have not been really
> satisfied with the electric. If you slow it down to where
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
I will be at the point soon of ordering my fuselage. I have NO tail wheel
time, but I think the 6 looks much much better. My original intention was to
build a 6, get some tail time (endorsement) and fly. After putting so much
work into my project I hate the thought of tearing it up. What are the
opinions of you tailwheelers? Yes, I know insurance would be cheaper on a 6a
and they fly the same once in the air. I can't help the fact, although I hate
it, I am leaning now toward a 6a. Thanks Guys, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Instr Apch Speeds 6A w C/S |
>
> I have the Hartzell C/S prop that Van sells and an O360A1A. The prop has
> the usual prohibition against operation from 2000 to 2250 RPM.
>
Dennis, where does one find this information?
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
Subject: | Re: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist |
Are these forms available online, or do I need to go to a FSDO to get them?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 6:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist
>
> Paul,
>
> I don't remember where the website is but the paperwork you will need is:
>
> 1) The Aircraft's Registration
> 2) FAA Form 8130-6, Application for Airworthiness Certificate
> 3) FAA Form 8130-12, Eligibility Statement (must be notarized)
> 4) Your Aircraft Logbook with the following statement (or something
> similiar): "I have inspection this aircraft in accordance with a yearly
> condition inspection and have found it to be in a condition for safe
> operation", Signature and your SSN, and the word "Builder". You do not
have
> to have the repairman's certificate for the initial sign-off.
> 5) A current weight and balance.
> 6) A test flight program.
> 7) A three view sketch, drawing, or photograph
> 8) The data plate (while not paperwork it must be there).
> 9) And FAA Form 8610-2, Application for Airman's Certificate.
>
> I hope this helps.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A N809RS
>
> >From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: "Rv-List(at)Matronics. Com"
> >Subject: RV-List: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist
> >Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 17:27:43 -0700
> >
> >
> > I recently recall a webpage or file that dictates everything I need to
> >have
> > accomplished, and what paperwork to have done before final inspection.
> > Anyone know where that is?
> >
> >
> > Paul Besing
> > RV-6A (197AB)Arizona
> > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> > Finishing Up
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
Bob,
In my humble opinion, I say BUILD WHAT YOU REALLY WANT. If you build a -6A just
because it's easier to control on the ground or because of insurance reasons,
you won't be happy. There are a lot of compromises that must be made (I'd like
a CS prop, but I really can't afford the purchase or maintenance costs), but
if you don't like the design of your entire airplane, you can't go back. This
applies to most other things in life too. Maybe you should try some tailwheel
time to see if you would like to fly that configuration.
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A N143DJ
Wings
From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: 6 vs 6a
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 21:02:17 EST
-- RV-List message posted by: Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
I will be at the point soon of ordering my fuselage. I have NO tail wheel
time, but I think the 6 looks much much better. My original intention was to
build a 6, get some tail time (endorsement) and fly. After putting so much
work into my project I hate the thought of tearing it up. What are the
opinions of you tailwheelers? Yes, I know insurance would be cheaper on a 6a
and they fly the same once in the air. I can't help the fact, although I hate
it, I am leaning now toward a 6a. Thanks Guys, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Re: RV Panel Visualization Tool |
Netscape 4.76 won't work, Internet Explorer 5.50.4522.1800 works perfectly and
using Paint Shop Pro
7 you can print what you create.
Thanks guys, great work,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist |
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> Are these forms available online, or do I need to go to a FSDO to get them?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 6:17 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist
>
> >
> > Paul,
> >
> > I don't remember where the website is but the paperwork you will need is:
> >
> > 1) The Aircraft's Registration
> > 2) FAA Form 8130-6, Application for Airworthiness Certificate
> > 3) FAA Form 8130-12, Eligibility Statement (must be notarized)
> > 4) Your Aircraft Logbook with the following statement (or something
> > similiar): "I have inspection this aircraft in accordance with a yearly
> > condition inspection and have found it to be in a condition for safe
> > operation", Signature and your SSN, and the word "Builder". You do not
> have
> > to have the repairman's certificate for the initial sign-off.
> > 5) A current weight and balance.
> > 6) A test flight program.
> > 7) A three view sketch, drawing, or photograph
> > 8) The data plate (while not paperwork it must be there).
> > 9) And FAA Form 8610-2, Application for Airman's Certificate.
> >
> > I hope this helps.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> > RV-8A N809RS
> >
> > >From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net>
> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To: "Rv-List(at)Matronics. Com"
> > >Subject: RV-List: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist
> > >Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 17:27:43 -0700
> > >
> > >
> > > I recently recall a webpage or file that dictates everything I need to
> > >have
> > > accomplished, and what paperwork to have done before final inspection.
> > > Anyone know where that is?
> > >
> > >
> > > Paul Besing
> > > RV-6A (197AB)Arizona
> > > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> > > Finishing Up
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
for the forms, try
http://search.bts.gov/ntl/query.html?col=dotbot&qp=site%3Afaa.gov+site%3Ajccbi.gov&qs=&qc=dotbot&pw=100%25&ws=0&fs=&qt=8130-6&qm=0&ql=&st=11&nh=10&lk=1&rf=0
If that doesn't work, try
http://www.faa.gov
Type in the form # you want & then scroll through the
selections until you see
FAA Flight Standards - Forms Download Page
click that & download the one you need.
I just did it about 2 minutes ago.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist |
Don't know if this link will have everything you are looking for, but
maybe it will be helpful:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/register.html
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
==================
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> I recently recall a webpage or file that dictates everything I need to have
> accomplished, and what paperwork to have done before final inspection.
> Anyone know where that is?
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB)Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Finishing Up
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | exhaust failure..high EGT's |
--- Bob Japundza wrote:
>
>
> > How about describing you EGT setup to us to help with ideas.
> >
> > What type and brand of system are you using?
>
> Audio Flight Avionics AV-10, 4 EGT's, 4 CHT's, probes are
> grounded-type Westach brand
>
> > How far down from the exhaust flange are the probes mounted.
>
> About 3 inches
>
> > Anything else that is "different" than other systems you've seen?
>
> Nope
>
> > Is it just one cylinder or all of them running high?
>
> The rear cylinders run slightly higher, but even the front
> cylinders run in the high 1400's
>
> > What do the plugs look like?
>
> They have a light brown color to them, just like they should
> be
>
> > I've always heard that the absolute # you see isn't really
> > critical, as different positions (vertically along the
> > exhaust) of the thermocouples will have great differences in
> > measurement. It's really the difference (delta) that is
> > important for trouble shooting.
>
> I haven't verified whether or not the engine monitor is
> really
> giving me accurate information at those temperatures. Yet.
>
>
> > I get the feeling that you probably would have burnt a piston
> > (just my opinion) by now if you really were running that hot.
>
> I've looked down into the plug holes, and all I've seen is
> some
> lead buildup on the face of the piston. No evidence of burning.
>
> The weird thing about my dilemma is my CHT's seem
> normal...320-370 range, #3 will hit 410 on takeoff; which seems to be
> normal in a RV.
>
> > I normally see 1375 when peaked at cruise on my O-360 A1A. I
> > would be worried about seeing an absolute #'s in the 1500's.
> >
> > BTW, I have Jet Hot 2000 deg coating on my Vetterman exhaust.
> > I would not do it again on a stainless ehaust (although I
> > would if it were mild steel).
> >
> > From what I've heard from welders, you can not reweld once
> > the coating has been applied. So if it breaks, I get to get
> > a new one. This comes from a gent on the field (who
> > fabricates stainless exhausts for EZ's) and has tried to repair
> such.
> >
> > It does look good though.
>
> Mine's a nice dull black color now. They did look nice prior
> to
> the first flight.
>
> > Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 165 hrs (still hurting from
> > Earnhardt's death)
> > O-360, Sensenich (83)
> > Simi Valley, SoCal
I am using the RMI microMonitor with a switch to all 4 cylinders.
I typically run at least 760 - 800 C (1400 - 1472 F) or more in cruise.
At higher altitudes, I can lean to 830-860 C (1525-1580 F). I lean on
full power climb to have about no less than 700 C (1292 F) and no more
than 720 C (1328 F). Lycoming says that peak power is 100 F of peak.
At the temperatures I run at, I will keep it about 60 C rich of peak.
If you have a copy of the Cessna Pilot Association September 2000
issue, turn to page 5147 and read the article "How Engine Controls
Affect Timing". To sum the article up, if you are leaning rich of
peak, you are advancing the timing. Mike Busch (he wrote the article)
show how if you do not lean enough, you can get detnotaion and higher
EGT temperatures. His graphs and data were taken at the GAMI engine
test facility.
My probes are 2 or 3 inches from the exhaust flange. The numbers you
get will vary with the instrument and probe location. My question
would be what temperature do you peak at when you have are full
throttle, full RPM and lean for peak EGT?
I almost always run at full throttle in cruise and will pull the prop
back to reduce noise and engine wear. Typically I cannot get more than
23 inches above 8,000 and will run 2300 to 2600 depending on how much
of a hurry and fuel I wish to burn. 23 square is my favorite power
setting and it only burns 7 GPH above 7,500 when leaned to almost peak
(820 C) and yields 160 KTAS.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
766+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
> I will be at the point soon of ordering my fuselage. I have NO tail wheel
> time, but I think the 6 looks much much better. My original intention was
to
> build a 6, get some tail time (endorsement) and fly. After putting so much
> work into my project I hate the thought of tearing it up. What are the
> opinions of you tailwheelers? Yes, I know insurance would be cheaper on a
6a
> and they fly the same once in the air. I can't help the fact, although I
hate
> it, I am leaning now toward a 6a. Thanks Guys, Bob
>
Bob,
Tailwheel airplanes are not really harder but they are different and
somewhat less forgiving. Almost any pilot could learn to fly one. To be
sure though, it would be a real good idea to get a tailwheel checkout now.
That will give you the information you need. I know it may not be easy to
find a suitable instructor and airplane but if you have to travel a little
and take some time off won't it be worth it to feel confident enough to be
able to build that beautiful 6. If you are really leaning toward the 6A it
doesn't sound like a problem though.
I do have first hand experience with someone that could not learn to fly a
taildragger. I ran into him when I was RV-6 shopping before I finally
decided to build. He was not a pilot at all and had completed a pretty nice
RV-6. At this point he found he could not learn to land it, hence the
reason for it being for sale. I also met a fellow who was a high time pilot
who turned his RV-6A over on the first flight, so having a nose gear does
not preclude the possibility of damaging an airplane.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Bob,
Flying a tailwheel isn't difficult, just some training and practice and the RV6
is one of the easiest taildraggers I've ever flown.
By the way, my wife learned to fly about 5 years ago in a Citabria and has never
flown a nosewheeler. She now flies her Mustang II which is a LOT more difficult
than an RV.
Dave 6 in So.Cal
Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> I will be at the point soon of ordering my fuselage. I have NO tail wheel
> time, but I think the 6 looks much much better. My original intention was to
> build a 6, get some tail time (endorsement) and fly. After putting so much
> work into my project I hate the thought of tearing it up. What are the
> opinions of you tailwheelers? Yes, I know insurance would be cheaper on a 6a
> and they fly the same once in the air. I can't help the fact, although I hate
> it, I am leaning now toward a 6a. Thanks Guys, Bob
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fran Malczynski" <ebafm(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | 10,000 Items to Finish |
As I work my way through the 10,000 items required to finish my RV, I keep
coming across nagging little questions that won't leave me be.
For instance, I read somewhere that the firesleeve ends need to be sealed. I
can't remember where I read this but I looked at the fuel hose that was
shipped with my Bart's 0360 and sure enough the ends are sealed. If anyone
else is sealing their firesleeve, what are you using? Hi temp RTV?
On the question of firesleeve. I've seen installations where every hose was
firesleeved and I've seen others where only the fuel lines were firesleeved.
Van's manual says only the fuel lines need to be firesleeved. Any opinions
on this?
Continuing the firesleeve thread, can I use safety wire to secure the ends
of the firesleeve or do I spring for those stainless firesleeve straps?
My #4 tefzel wire coming from my alternator comes to within 1.25 inches of
my front crossover exhaust pipe. Can I leave this be or should I put some
firesleeve around the wire or add a heatshield in this area?
Any and all responses appreciated.
Thanks
Fran Malczynski
Olcott, NY
RV6 - N594EF (finishing the 10,000 items)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Internally regulated alternators |
Scott and all
I am going to attempt to reply to this from memory so if I get it slightly
wrong, I'm sorry in advance.
I have the idiot light hooked up on my four. I use a fairly large red light
and it functions very well as a master switch reminder light.
To get the light to fuction properly, ie on when the engine is not running
and off when the engine starts and the alternator is doing its thing
properly, it is necessary to run a hot wire to the light that will cause it
to illuminate when the master is turned on. The wire to the other side of
the light goes to the alternator. When the alternator is not turning this
acts as the ground. Once the alternator begins producing electricty, power
is sent to the light through this wire as well. The light no longer is
grounded and goes out. If the alternator fails, the light becomes grounded
again and alerts you to the failure.
I think this is how I wired it up in mine and its seems to work as
advertised.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
PS even with this light, I have managed to leave the master on twice. I
have thought about hooking up a buzzer as well, but I think it would be too
annoying those times when you have the master on to power up the radios etc.
>
> Someone was kind enough to tell me before but I have since lost the email
so
> perhaps someone can tell me again. I have the internally regulated
> alternator that Bart Lablonde uses. Someone told me how to hook it up to
> the idiot light but I can't remember now. One side of the light goes to
the
> alternator and the other side goes to +12 or ground?
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Subject: | Re: Manual Elevator Trim |
It doesn't seem like the armrest would be a very convenient place for the trim
since your left hand will usually be on the stick (at least mine is) and you'd
have to shuffle hands to trim or reach over with your right hand.
Dave
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
>
> Jack, your trim lever in the arm rest sounds like a good idea. You could
> use a Van's throttle quadrant with just one lever. Would make a nice
> smoothly tensioned trim mechanism. You would sure want to protect it so you
> could not inadvertantly bump it. That could be real bad at 200MPH.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "baremetl" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com> |
Subject: | Albuquerque FBO's |
Can anyone in the Albuquerque area recommend an FBO at the big airport
(ALB). I'm flying in for a ski vacation and need to rent a car and leave
the plane for a week. Or would one of the smaller airports ( Coronado or
Double Eagle ???) have rental cars available? Thanks in advance.
Ivan Haecker
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV Panel Visualization Tool |
No Bill, we would never intentionally leave out the -3 -4 or the -9. We
just need someone to pass along the dimensions of those panels to us.
Remember, Bill and I whipped this up in a little over a day. Full of coffee
and running on an adrenalin high that we didn't want to lose, we might have
missed a few things that we'll try to rectify.
My heartfelt apologies to Matt for neglecting his Fuel Flow monitor (can I
use the word FuelScan?)
We'll fix that tomorrow.
Mike Nellis
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
RV-6 N699BM (res) Gooping up the tanks
Plainfield, IL (LOT)
http://bmnellis.com
>
> Oh no....the -4 is being left out? Ack....now I really fell abandoned.
> :-(
>
> Bill
> -4 wings.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com>
> To: "RV-List"
> Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 6:09 PM
> Subject: RV-List: RV Panel Visualization Tool
>
>
> >
> > Well, you didn't ask for it but you got it anyway. Through the magic of
> > Instant messaging, Bill Vondane and I have collaborated on a web page
> > that will allow you to play around with different panel scenarios.
> > Using web magic you can move images of instruments around either an RV6
> > or RV8 panel and get an idea of how things might look. We've got a
> > pretty good selection instruments to play with and we can always add
> > more if there is the need to.
> >
> > This tool is not meant to replace Panel Planner, Autocad, Vision or any
> > other tool out there. It's our way of trying to give a little
> > something back to the RV list and have some fun also.
> >
> > RV8 Panel http://vondane.com/rv8a/rvpanel/
> > RV6 Panel http://www.bmnellis.com/rvpanel/
> >
> > Enjoy yourself and let us know what you think.
> >
> > Mike & Bill
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV Panel Visualization Tool |
You're welcome Robert,
We didn't think to test it with Netscape but obviously the JavaScript and
Netscape just don't like each other.
Mike Nellis
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
RV-6 N699BM (res) Gooping up the tanks
Plainfield, IL (LOT)
http://bmnellis.com
>
> Netscape 4.76 won't work, Internet Explorer 5.50.4522.1800 works perfectly
and using Paint Shop Pro
> 7 you can print what you create.
> Thanks guys, great work,
> Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | Re: Manual Elevator Trim |
Dave,
My plan is to have my right hand on the stick and left throttle and so a
centrally located trim would entail hand swapping. Eric had a good point
about not bumping the trim. I'll keep that in mind. I haven't built the
armrest yet so still time to work it out.
Ed Holyoke
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Bristol" <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 7:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Manual Elevator Trim
>
> It doesn't seem like the armrest would be a very convenient place for the
trim
> since your left hand will usually be on the stick (at least mine is) and
you'd
> have to shuffle hands to trim or reach over with your right hand.
>
> Dave
>
> Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
>
> >
> > Jack, your trim lever in the arm rest sounds like a good idea. You could
> > use a Van's throttle quadrant with just one lever. Would make a nice
> > smoothly tensioned trim mechanism. You would sure want to protect it so
you
> > could not inadvertantly bump it. That could be real bad at 200MPH.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Instr Apch Speeds 6A w C/S |
> I have the Hartzell C/S prop that Van sells and an O360A1A. The prop has
> the usual prohibition against operation from 2000 to 2250 RPM.
I have just combed through my Lycoming Operator's Manual and Hartzell
Owner's Manual and can not find any reference to this prohibition. Where is
it specified?
Ross Mickey
O360 A1A and Hartzell HC-C2YK-1BF F 7666A-4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Instr Apch Speeds 6A w C/S |
> > I have the Hartzell C/S prop that Van sells and an O360A1A. The prop
has
> > the usual prohibition against operation from 2000 to 2250 RPM.
> >
>
> Dennis, where does one find this information?
>
Okay, big breath:
http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgMakeModel.nsf/0/
049af0a4847bb68b852567120043adb2/$FILE/p-920.pdf.
All of the FAA Type Certificate Data Sheets can be found on the FAA site, at
http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rghtml.nsf/htmlmed
ia/make_model_selection.html
Note that the stupid email program will probably break the above links into
multiple lines; you'll probably need to reassemble them to get to the doc.
The documents can be somewhat difficult to decipher -- there can be a number
of entries that LOOK like they're the one you're looking for but are not.
Also the PDF conversion leaves something to be desired -- the lines don't
all match up correctly in the Key. Just be patient, and get a copy directly
from the FAA if in doubt.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: 10,000 Items to Finish |
In a message dated 2/21/01 7:41:03 PM Pacific Standard Time, ebafm(at)yahoo.com
writes:
<< On the question of firesleeve. I've seen installations where every hose was
firesleeved and I've seen others where only the fuel lines were firesleeved.
Van's manual says only the fuel lines need to be firesleeved. Any opinions
on this? >>
My personal opinion is that if the line contains anything that supports a
flame it should be firesleeved. Oil is also a fuel. I'm sure this could go
into the primer vs no primer/trigear vs tailwheel/wheel landing vs
threepoint/right throttle vs left throttle/gascolator vs filter/aluminum
fitting vs steel fitting/analog vs digital gauges/oil cooler door vs
none/(insert other contentious and intractable issue here) file.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Instr Apch Speeds 6A w C/S |
----- Original Message -----
From: Randall Henderson <randallh(at)home.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 10:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Instr Apch Speeds 6A w C/S
>
> > > I have the Hartzell C/S prop that Van sells and an O360A1A. The prop
> has
> > > the usual prohibition against operation from 2000 to 2250 RPM.
> > >
Am setting up my 6A for instrument flight but will be some time before
first flight.
90 Knots sounds like a good speed, thats what I use with a Cherokee Six.
However I set
the prop to 2500 rpm for approach. It is then set for a go-around at limits
should that be
necessary and may keep your prop out of caution range while it is riding the
fine pitch stop
on final approach.
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
Subject: | Drilling holes in wing rib flanges |
A question for the assembled multitudes...
I was starting to follow the directions given by Frank "Bunny" van der Hulst in
his construction notes, where I will drill the holes in the wing rib flanges
that go against the main spar...he (and others) drill the holes in the flanges
for both the leading edge/tank ribs and the main ribs by putting the ribs on
a flat surface, matching up the flanges so the ribs are aligned as they will be
when finally installed, and drilling the holes so they match.
Just curious...I'm not 100% confident in my ability to drill the holes in the main
spar straight and true enough to match both sets of flanges...would I be better
off just drilling the holes in the leading edge/tank rib flanges, and leaving
the holes in the main rib flanges to be drilled when I drill the main spar?
Semper Fi
John
RV-6 (a'drillin' them holes...millyuns and millyuns of holes...)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "BERNIE KERR" <KERRJB(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Manual Elevator Trim |
HI Bill,
Sounds like a neat idea. Where did you buy your switch ?
Bernie
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 8:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Manual Elevator Trim
>
> Bernie,
>
> Why don't you do what I did, use a low range differential press. switch to
> automatically switch your trim servo into low speed when above a certain
> airspeed (in my case-120MPH). TheD/P switch ties into the pitot and static
> lines. It works great. Steve Ave incorporated this into his 8 also.
>
> Bill RV-8 N48WD
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "BERNIE KERR" <KERRJB(at)email.msn.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 7:13 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Manual Elevator Trim
>
>
> >
> > Hi Jack,
> >
> > When I did 60WM, originally ordered manual trim. Changed to electric to
> > eliminate the console, which is a good idea. I have not been really
> > satisfied with the electric. If you slow it down to where
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Drilling holes in wing rib flanges |
John,
First of all, you don't drill the tank ribs to the spar at all. They are
drilled to the tank baffle plate.
As to the main ribs, drill the mounting holes in their forward flanges
first. I located the outboard main rib and lined up the skins with it, then
located the rest of the main ribs as close to their stations as possible,
given the limitations of the pre-drilled holes in the skins. After they
were clamped in place, I drilled their forward flanges up through the spar.
Then, I used the false skin method to line up the leading edge ribs with the
main ribs, then back drilled their flanges (again up through the spar).
Those LE ribs will magically line up with the holes in the LE skin, so don't
worry about that. The worst problem I had was the fact that due to the
pre-drilled holes, some main ribs were off-station. Some of them were so
far off that I needed to grind down some nuts. In one case, a rib was off
in the other direction, so I needed to put a spacer between the rib web and
the mounting angle.
Good luck.
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A Wings
>From: John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Drilling holes in wing rib flanges
>Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 05:52:52 -0600
>
>
>A question for the assembled multitudes...
>
>I was starting to follow the directions given by Frank "Bunny" van der
>Hulst in his construction notes, where I will drill the holes in the wing
>rib flanges that go against the main spar...he (and others) drill the holes
>in the flanges for both the leading edge/tank ribs and the main ribs by
>putting the ribs on a flat surface, matching up the flanges so the ribs are
>aligned as they will be when finally installed, and drilling the holes so
>they match.
>
>Just curious...I'm not 100% confident in my ability to drill the holes in
>the main spar straight and true enough to match both sets of
>flanges...would I be better off just drilling the holes in the leading
>edge/tank rib flanges, and leaving the holes in the main rib flanges to be
>drilled when I drill the main spar?
>
>Semper Fi
>John
>RV-6 (a'drillin' them holes...millyuns and millyuns of holes...)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Airbatix(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Instr Apch Speeds 6A w C/S |
i keep hearing of this rpm range restriction, too...i have the van's hartzell
hc-c2yk-1bf compact hub constant speed prop and the book that came with it
doesn't speak of this restriction..or does it?...is there an advisory
out?...is the advisory from lycoming??
thanx
paul m/rv6a/180/cs/ready for inspection/n632m
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | phil <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
REPOST for future e-searching
Subject: RV-List: exhaust failure..high EGT's
Thread-Topic: exhaust failure..high EGT's
Thread-Index: AcCcIpsC6cklvW5wRjW3NRXd6Hl10w=
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
Over the weekend, I had the #3 crossover pipe fail on my Vetterman
exhaust. I was pretty close to my airport but other that a few moments
of excitement trying to figure out what was going on the expedited
landing was a non-event. Sure made a bunch of noise and the cowl
vibrated quite a bit. Good thing there was no fire because the way the
weld broke exhaust gases were pointed right at the carb.
I spoke to Larry this morning as he was out of town for several days,
and out of the 4000+ exhaust systems he's built, there's only one that
has failed in the same manner mine has, in the area along the weld where
the #4 crossover pipe connects to the #3 exhaust on the right side. The
exhaust has 85 hours on it. When I pulled the cowl the pipe fell to the
floor--it completely broke off. So, guys don't get your shorts in a wad
and flood Larry or Van's or whoever with phone calls about this...it's
truly an anomaly. I noticed a small crack along the weld some time ago,
and have had others look at the tiny hairline crack that appeared. Both
people told me to not worry about it; just keep an eye on it, if there's
evidence of exhaust leaking out the crack then worry about it. I made a
mistake in not listening to myself and had it repaired.
So, on now to the cause. I think the failure was metallurgical in
nature; either the pipe was not stress relieved correctly or there were
faults in the composition of the stainless. I don't think the weld
itself was bad, or caused by high EGT's (which, by the way, I discovered
during this ordeal.) I agreed to remove the exhaust and send it to
Larry for repairs. It sucks to be down again for another week and a
half, but surely he'll fix what's broken and make it better.
On topic I brought up in my conversation with Larry was having Jet-Hot
coat my exhaust...His response was pretty much like 'hell no' based on
opinions he got on the subject from a metallurgist with an extensive
background in turbines.
Now, on to my question. In discussing this failure with several people,
unbeknownst previously to me I am running excessively high EGT's
Typically in cruise my hottest cylinders run around 1520, burning
9.2-9.5 gal/hr (75% @ 3000ft) leaned out to roughness then backing off a
little. CHT's run in the 320-370 range. My engine is a carbureted
O-360, Electroair ignition, and runs very smooth in cruise. Two of the
opinions I have received so far indicate a carburetor jetting problem,
or maybe a problem with the 100LL I'm getting. According to the source
of the latter, some manufacturers of avgas are using increased amounts
of toluene in their fuel to combat lead fouling, and the side-effect is
hotter EGT's. I'm not sure if I buy into that one. Seems to me I have
a carb problem. With that being said in my long diatribe here, is there
a way to check the jetting of the carb without sending it off to
precision airmotive? I've thumbed through the carb overhaul manual and
really don't want to 'fix what's not broke' in doing a complete
overhaul. It is easy to check and adjust the jetting without
dismantling the carb, if jetting can be a probable cause of my high
EGT's?
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Prop and Engine RPM Restrictions |
From: | "Denis (Bum) Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 2/21/01 23:46, Ross at rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com wrote:
>
>> I have the Hartzell C/S prop that Van sells and an O360A1A. The prop has
>> the usual prohibition against operation from 2000 to 2250 RPM.
>
> I have just combed through my Lycoming Operator's Manual and Hartzell
> Owner's Manual and can not find any reference to this prohibition. Where is
> it specified?
>
> Ross Mickey
> O360 A1A and Hartzell HC-C2YK-1BF F 7666A-4
>
>
Apparently the fellow who did us all a great favor and researched this
subject is not monitoring the list. What a surprise.
Anyway the "restriction" is found in neither the Lyc stuff nor the prop
stuff. It is on a FAA site. FAA requires all prop and engine combos to be
tested. The results of those tests are reflected in the charts. For the
O-360 A1A that Van sells along with the Hartzell C?S for it, you should have
a placard: "Avoid continuous operation between 2000 and 2250 RPM."
Other combos are different.
My plane has the warning and I heed it; however, when I turn base, I quit
looking at the RPM.
Hope this helps.
D Walsh
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: FW: virus alert |
In a message dated 2/21/01 12:29:59 PM, rowena(at)seanet.com writes:
>Subject: FW: virus alert
>
>
>>> >>A new virus has just been discovered that has been classified by
>
>>> >>> Microsoft (www.microsoft.com) and by McAfee (www.mcafee.com) as
>
>>> >>> the most destructive ever! This virus was discovered yesterday
>
>>> >>> afternoon by McAfee and no vaccine has yet been developed. This
>virus
>
>>> >>> simply destroys Sector Zero from the hard disk, where vital
>
>>information
>
>>> >>> for its functioning are stored. This virus acts in the following
>
>>manner:
>
>>> >>It
>
>>> >>> sends itself automatically to all contacts on your list with the
>
>>title
>
>>> "A
>
>>> >>> Virtual Card for You". As soon as the supposed virtual card is
>
>>opened,
>
>>> >>> the computer freezes so that the user has to reboot. When the
>
>>> >>> ctrl+alt+del keys or the reset button are pressed, the virus destroys
>
>>> >>> Sector Zero,
>
>>> >>> thus permanently destroying the hard disk. Yesterday in just a few
>
>>hours
>
>>> >>> this virus caused panic in New York, according to news broadcast
>by
>
>>> >>> CNN (www.cnn.com). This alert was received by an employee of
>
>>> >>> Microsoft itself. So don't open any mails with subject "A Virtual
>
>>Card
>
>>> >for
>
>>> >>> You". As soon as you get the mail, delete it. Please pass on this
>
>>mail
>
>>> to
>
>>> >>> all
>
>>> >>> your friends. Forward this to everyone in your address book. I would
>
>>> >>> rather receive this 25 times than not at all. Also: Intel announced
>
>>that
>
>>> >a
>
>>> >>> new and very destructive virus was discovered recently. If you
>
>>receive
>
>>> >>> an email called
>
>>> >>> "An Internet Flower For You", do not open it. Delete it right away!
>
>>This
>
>>> >>> virus removes all dynamic link libraries(.dll files) from
>
>>> >>> your computer. Your computer will not be able to boot up. SEND THIS
>
>>TO
>
>>> >>> EVERYONE ON YOUR CONTACT LIST!!
>
>>> >>>
>
>>> >>
>
>>> >
>
>>
>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Wobble |
Eric,
Would not reccomend tack welding it!
If you have any slop in the gear leg it
will not hold it. The taper pin is the best
solution for sure. Watch the alignment
as you ream to size. I fixed this problem
for a guy by reaming the hole in the gear
leg and pressing in a plug. Then welded doublers
on the socket and then redrilled the assbly.
Stewart RV4 Colo.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
Subject: | Re: 10,000 Items to Finish |
Fran,
I used firesleeves on my oil lines as well.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Fran Malczynski wrote:
>
> As I work my way through the 10,000 items required to finish my RV, I keep
> coming across nagging little questions that won't leave me be.
>
> For instance, I read somewhere that the firesleeve ends need to be sealed. I
> can't remember where I read this but I looked at the fuel hose that was
> shipped with my Bart's 0360 and sure enough the ends are sealed. If anyone
> else is sealing their firesleeve, what are you using? Hi temp RTV?
>
> On the question of firesleeve. I've seen installations where every hose was
> firesleeved and I've seen others where only the fuel lines were firesleeved.
> Van's manual says only the fuel lines need to be firesleeved. Any opinions
> on this?
>
> Continuing the firesleeve thread, can I use safety wire to secure the ends
> of the firesleeve or do I spring for those stainless firesleeve straps?
>
> My #4 tefzel wire coming from my alternator comes to within 1.25 inches of
> my front crossover exhaust pipe. Can I leave this be or should I put some
> firesleeve around the wire or add a heatshield in this area?
>
> Any and all responses appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> Fran Malczynski
> Olcott, NY
> RV6 - N594EF (finishing the 10,000 items)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Alodine revelation... |
From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
17, 2001) at 02/22/2001 11:20:44 AM
I have been using local platers for Alodining since completion of the tail.
It far quicker and less messy, though more expensive. In the Boston area,
I pay $50-75 per lot. I had an aerospace plater Alodine both wing and
fuselage skins. In several cases, I had the plater paint the skins as
well. I have not access to a paint booth large enough to paint skins and
the Boston weather is often not amenable to painting outside. I highly
recommend using plating companies for this work.
Dean Pichon
Arlington, MA
RV-4
"Jared Boone" (at)matronics.com on 02/21/2001 06:07:00 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Alodine revelation...
Perhaps this is common knowledge, but it wasn't for me...
For those of you considering Alumiprep (acid etch) and Alodine (chromate
conversion coating) for your plane, there's a way to avoid buying, handling
and disposing of those chemicals yourself. You may be able to find a local
outfit that will do the process for (what seems to me) a reasonable fee.
Look in the Yellow Pages for companies specializing in "Metal Finishing" or
"Anodizing".
I got some ball-park estimates from a company called Sure Power Industries
(http://www.surepower.com/finishing.html) in Tigard, Oregon. The salesman
I
spoke with said they charge $35 per lot (no matter how many pieces). On
top
of the lot fee, you pay either per-piece (for very small parts) or by how
much of their tank rack you utilize. As an example, a 12"x12" sheet would
cost about $1.50. A full rack (5ft x 2ft x 8.5ft) runs about $125. He
also
said parts with rivet or lightening holes are easier for them to work with
(they'll hang those parts). They do not do any hand prep (filing or
sanding -- no surprise), so you must bring parts in ready for the etch and
conversion coating. Their turnaround is about two days usually (Boeing is
keeping them very busy at the moment, so the wait is more like a week right
now).
They can also do priming, but I think I will do that myself a) because it's
MUCH more expensive to have them do it, and b) they use a primer that may
or
may not be compatible with the topcoat I want to use.
I don't see how I can have them Alodine skins. Since Sure Power uses a
tank, I'd presume they'd have to Alodine both sides. And from what I
understand, the conversion coating is fairly fragile -- I wouldn't want my
outer skin surfaces only Alodined while I work with them for months (or
years).
I'm guestimating that my entire empennage (sans skins) will cost probably
$60 to clean/etch/Alodine. While this is certainly more expensive than
doing it myself, I get the peace of mind of knowing it was done by
professionals (to Boeing/MIL specs), the time savings of not having to
develop the expertise myself, and I have fewer toxic chemicals I have to
buy/handle/breathe/explode/dispose of.
Thoughts, opinions? Provided y'all don't talk me out of it, I will post my
experiences to the list.
- Jared Boone
jboone(at)earfeast.com
(RV-8 Empennage)
P.S. I have no affiliation with Sure Power Industries, in case that wasn't
obvious.
**** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one of
Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may contain
confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee
only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not
the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.****
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>Bob,
>
>Tailwheel airplanes are not really harder but they are different and
>somewhat less forgiving. Almost any pilot could learn to fly one. To be
>sure though, it would be a real good idea to get a tailwheel checkout now.
>That will give you the information you need. I know it may not be easy to
>find a suitable instructor and airplane but if you have to travel a little
>and take some time off won't it be worth it to feel confident enough to be
>able to build that beautiful 6. If you are really leaning toward the 6A it
>doesn't sound like a problem though.
>
>I do have first hand experience with someone that could not learn to fly a
>taildragger. I ran into him when I was RV-6 shopping before I finally
>decided to build. He was not a pilot at all and had completed a pretty
>nice
>RV-6. At this point he found he could not learn to land it, hence the
>reason for it being for sale. I also met a fellow who was a high time
>pilot
>who turned his RV-6A over on the first flight, so having a nose gear does
>not preclude the possibility of damaging an airplane.
>
>Larry Pardue
>Carlsbad, NM
>
I concur with Larry. Great New Mexican minds think alike. ;) I had some
time in a -6A before completing my -8 and found it was NOT as directionally
stable as I thought it would be. With no direct link to the rudder cables,
nor any shimmy dampener, it can and will wander off the runway if you let
it. So, with that said, why not build the airplane that you truly LOVE to
look at? Don't let the lack of tailwheel time deter you from your dream.
Get some dual in a Citabria as I did, and you'll find it's not as bad as
some would have you believe. I had a total of thirteen hours in a
combination of Citabria, CAP10 and RV8 time, dual, before flying my -8 for
the first time. It was most enjoyable and I'm very glad I did it.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
175 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
Hi again Bob. Someone on the list could probably help you out with an
intoduction to a "taildragger". Where are located. If in California give me
a yell.
Dennis Thomas
RV9-A
Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> |
Subject: | Prop and Engine RPM Restrictions |
I too recalled an restriction, and found it under a Hartzell document I got
from Brad Huelsman @ Hartzell (937) 778-4392, it read:
"Stabilized operation is prohibited above 25" of MP between 2300 and 2550,
and below 15"MP above 2600RPM" This restriction is not significant during
normal operations"
I just took delivery of a shiny new 0-360A1A yesterday.
Tampa builders: Shooting for 3/10 "Engine hannging Party"
Doug Gardner -8A #80717 0-360/CS FWF
Palm Harbor Florida
-----Original Message-----
From: Denis (Bum) Walsh [mailto:deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 9:19 AM
Subject: RV-List: Prop and Engine RPM Restrictions
on 2/21/01 23:46, Ross at rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com wrote:
>
>> I have the Hartzell C/S prop that Van sells and an O360A1A. The prop has
>> the usual prohibition against operation from 2000 to 2250 RPM.
>
> I have just combed through my Lycoming Operator's Manual and Hartzell
> Owner's Manual and can not find any reference to this prohibition. Where
is
> it specified?
>
> Ross Mickey
> O360 A1A and Hartzell HC-C2YK-1BF F 7666A-4
>
>
Apparently the fellow who did us all a great favor and researched this
subject is not monitoring the list. What a surprise.
Anyway the "restriction" is found in neither the Lyc stuff nor the prop
stuff. It is on a FAA site. FAA requires all prop and engine combos to be
tested. The results of those tests are reflected in the charts. For the
O-360 A1A that Van sells along with the Hartzell C?S for it, you should have
a placard: "Avoid continuous operation between 2000 and 2250 RPM."
Other combos are different.
My plane has the warning and I heed it; however, when I turn base, I quit
looking at the RPM.
Hope this helps.
D Walsh
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Albuquerque FBO's |
>From: "baremetl" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rv-list"
>Subject: RV-List: Albuquerque FBO's
>Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 22:26:59 -0600
>
>
>Can anyone in the Albuquerque area recommend an FBO at the big airport
>(ALB). I'm flying in for a ski vacation and need to rent a car and leave
>the plane for a week. Or would one of the smaller airports ( Coronado or
>Double Eagle ???) have rental cars available? Thanks in advance.
>Ivan Haecker
>
Ivan,
I'm based at Double Eagle and you can get a rental car there. But I would
advise calling ahead to assure one will be available. Call Sandy at the
AeroWest Fuel desk at (505)352-0292 or toll free at 1-877-384-9813. Fuel is
currently $2.35 self serve, or get it pumped for you for $1.99 from the West
Mesa Aviation FBO. Quite a fuel price war going on!
ABQ is certainly more convenient for ease of access to hotels and the heart
of Albuquerque. I don't have any FBO experience there. Double Eagle is out
in the middle of the west mesa with nothing much around it. It's a 25
minute drive via I-40 into the city. Coronado is completely falling apart
and I would not recommend it. I'm talking potholes in the taxiway here.
Sad.
Have fun in Albuquerque!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
175 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Instr Apch Speeds 6A w C/S |
PS There is a lot in the RV-List archives about this too. Search for "rpm &
restriction & hartzell".
Randall
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Don Winters <dwinters(at)acraline.com> |
Just wanted to add a little more fuel to the fire on exhaust coatings:
I work for a company that manufactures land-based turbine components for
General Electric. They coat the insides of the combustion liners that fire
into the turbine blades. These operate at around 1900 deg F or more.
It's referred to as TBC (Thermal Barrier Coating) by Praxair. They can do
this process in Indianapolis. I'm not sure what they would charge to coat
an exhaust system. Also note that the turbine components are made of exotic
nickel based alloys (hasteloy and nimonic). I haven't gotten as far as to
research how well it works on stainless steel. When I get a little closer
to engine installation, I'll have a better idea of whether I'm going to use
it or not.
Don Winters (wings)
-----Original Message-----
From: phil [mailto:pcondon(at)mitre.org]
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 8:37 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: High CHT
On topic I brought up in my conversation with Larry was having Jet-Hot
coat my exhaust...His response was pretty much like 'hell no' based on
opinions he got on the subject from a metallurgist with an extensive
background in turbines.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)ticnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Manual Elevator Trim |
Jack, my -6A has two fuel gages snugged side-by-side just forward of the
fuel selector...a 45 degree tab then tilts forward and upward to grab
the manual trim knob. Works quite well and is intuitive after a few
hours use. I like the fuel gages adjacent to the selector. Throttle is
on a subpanel below the instrument panel.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
-6A flying past 320 hours
Jack wrote:
>
>
> The feel and simplicity of the manual elevator vernier is great but I'm
> trying to eliminate the center console normally used to mount it and the
> engine controls. Is it possible to mount all of these controls on a
> recessed subpanel hung from the instrument panel without stick
> interference? Does anybody have a sketch or photo showing how they did
> it? Can the manual trim knob be reduced in diameter?
>
> Jack H.
> RV-6A - panel
> jgh(at)iavbbs.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Biddle" <dbiddle(at)wans.net> |
Subject: | EI fuel gauge LED dimmer |
I am using a Nuckols dimmer on my instrument panel.
The EI fuel gauge FL-2R analog LED's get dimmer as all the other lighting
gets brighter with increased voltage from the dimmer.
I called EI, expecting to send back the unit for repair but they said that
is how it is supposed to work. When I said it was backwards from all the
rest, they offered to send a dimmer for the fuel gauge, which they did. (no
charge)
It is their model CP-1 which is priced at $29. It decreases voltage as the
knob is turned to the right, which causes the LED's to increase in
brightness.
Just a heads up, so you don't have to go back and add this control later
like I did, after I thought everything was done in the panel.
Dave Biddle
RV6A Fuselage, engine, instruments, systems done
Phoenix AZ.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Biddle" <dbiddle(at)wans.net> |
Subject: | Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist |
You can get the forms at:
http://www.provide.net/~pratt/ambuilt/forms.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist |
I honestly don't know if these are available online. But if you call your
local FSDO they will mail them to you. And if you are going to use a DAR he
will have these also.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist
>Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 19:26:08 -0700
>
>
>Are these forms available online, or do I need to go to a FSDO to get them?
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
>To:
>Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 6:17 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist
>
>
> >
> > Paul,
> >
> > I don't remember where the website is but the paperwork you will need
>is:
> >
> > 1) The Aircraft's Registration
> > 2) FAA Form 8130-6, Application for Airworthiness Certificate
> > 3) FAA Form 8130-12, Eligibility Statement (must be notarized)
> > 4) Your Aircraft Logbook with the following statement (or something
> > similiar): "I have inspection this aircraft in accordance with a yearly
> > condition inspection and have found it to be in a condition for safe
> > operation", Signature and your SSN, and the word "Builder". You do not
>have
> > to have the repairman's certificate for the initial sign-off.
> > 5) A current weight and balance.
> > 6) A test flight program.
> > 7) A three view sketch, drawing, or photograph
> > 8) The data plate (while not paperwork it must be there).
> > 9) And FAA Form 8610-2, Application for Airman's Certificate.
> >
> > I hope this helps.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> > RV-8A N809RS
> >
> > >From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net>
> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To: "Rv-List(at)Matronics. Com"
> > >Subject: RV-List: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist
> > >Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 17:27:43 -0700
> > >
> > >
> > > I recently recall a webpage or file that dictates everything I need
>to
> > >have
> > > accomplished, and what paperwork to have done before final
>inspection.
> > > Anyone know where that is?
> > >
> > >
> > > Paul Besing
> > > RV-6A (197AB)Arizona
> > > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> > > Finishing Up
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: EI fuel gauge LED dimmer |
Dave Biddle wrote:
>
>
> I am using a Nuckols dimmer on my instrument panel.
> The EI fuel gauge FL-2R analog LED's get dimmer as all the other lighting
> gets brighter with increased voltage from the dimmer.
> I called EI, expecting to send back the unit for repair but they said that
> is how it is supposed to work. When I said it was backwards from all the
> rest, they offered to send a dimmer for the fuel gauge, which they did. (no
> charge)
> It is their model CP-1 which is priced at $29. It decreases voltage as the
> knob is turned to the right, which causes the LED's to increase in
> brightness.
>
> Just a heads up, so you don't have to go back and add this control later
> like I did, after I thought everything was done in the panel.
>
> Dave Biddle
> RV6A Fuselage, engine, instruments, systems done
> Phoenix AZ.
If memory serves me, the rational for the "backwards" dimming protocol
is so you can wire the EI dimmer wire to your nav light circuit. When
the nav lights are turned on, the EI gauge will dim.
This is the setup I have on my plane and it works well; the amount of
dimming of the EI unit in my RV-6 seem just right with no additional
dimmers required.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Bob,
I highly recommend reading an article on Doug's web site about tailwheel vs. nosegear.
I pretty sure it's written by Ken Scott of Van's. Good reading.
See it at:
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/articles/nosewheelvstailwheel_anon.htm
Like Larry and Brian said, flying a RV-6 is a lot of fun. I kinda compare landing
to playing golf. Somedays it's great, somedays.....I wanna kill something.
If you ask me right now, I'd say 1, build what you really desire. That's what
I did. There was no way anybody was going to talk me out of building a tailwheel
RV. You put a lot of effort into making this great little flying machine.
Better to build what you really want.
That being said, sometimes I wonder if I did the right thing by building the taildragger.
Somedays, I love it, somedays....
Last week the SoCal group went up to Harris Ranch in the Central Valley of CA.
When we got there the winds were 90 deg to the runway and gusting. 2 of us tailwheel
airplanes got down on the first try, but it wasn't pretty. The other
one had to go around once, and the other finally got down on the third try.
Very entertaining. I was wishing for a nose gear on short final.
I also went out last night to shoot some night landings. I was all over the place.
Just frustrating at times. Sometimes you get it all right, and sometimes
you loose the handle on it and it takes awhile to get back.
And then again, somedays it makes you feel like the greatest pilot in the world
(ok, so I live in a small world).
Make your decision carefully, and try not to let the macho attitude in while making
the decision. You'll live with it a while. Like Brian said, go get some
tailwheel time to help make the decision.
Good luck with the decision.
Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 165 hrs
O-360, Sensenich (83)
Simi Valley, SoCal
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Wed, Feb 21, 2001 6:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: 6 vs 6a
I will be at the point soon of ordering my fuselage. I have NO tail wheel
time, but I think the 6 looks much much better. My original intention was to
build a 6, get some tail time (endorsement) and fly. After putting so much
work into my project I hate the thought of tearing it up. What are the
opinions of you tailwheelers? Yes, I know insurance would be cheaper on a 6a
and they fly the same once in the air. I can't help the fact, although I hate
it, I am leaning now toward a 6a. Thanks Guys, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated Wed, 21 Feb 2001 9:06:18 PM Eastern Standard Time, Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
writes:
I will be at the point soon of ordering my fuselage. I have NO tail wheel
time, but I think the 6 looks much much better. My original intention was to
build a 6, get some tail time (endorsement) and fly. After putting so much
work into my project I hate the thought of tearing it up. What are the
opinions of you tailwheelers? Yes, I know insurance would be cheaper on a 6a
and they fly the same once in the air. I can't help the fact, although I hate
it, I am leaning now toward a 6a. Thanks Guys, Bob
Bob,
When I started building my 8 I had not taken a single lesson. I know I could learn
to fly faster than I could build. When it came time to order the fuselage
I had the same delema your having. However, Van's made up my mind for me since
the 8A was not in production. I know have 15 hours in a Citabria and feel
fairly confortable but not ready to fly the 8 yet. I have flown and landed a
6A from the right seat and would not give a much thought to flying an 8A. Over
all I am est. that it is going to cost around $1000 of extra training to get
up to speed with a tailwheel over what it would cost for tri gear. I hope this
is money well spent as I feel I have learned a lot. But if I were to do it
again I can think of better places to put the grand (panel).
Hope this helps
Alan Kritzman
Cedar Rapids, IA
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chuck Weyant <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
Subject: | Re: Spar Attach Angles RV9 |
Okay, riveted the gas tank spar attach angles to the gas tank baffle. Set it on
the jigged wing spar, clecoed everything down and match drilled "in assembly"
the wing spar and tank attach angles (z bars). Now I've riveted the leading edge
on. Next I am to install the tank along with half the screws and bolts. I am
starting with the spar-to-attach-angle-nutplates. Nothing matches. I can't get
the bolts into the nutplates. When riveting the nutplates I made sure
everything was aligned and secure befor drilling and riveting. I don't
understand how so many could be off alignment. Some align, perhaps three or
four per tank, but most are off by 1/32 or so.
1. What went wrong?
2. What to do?
Chuck Weyant
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Spar Attach Angles RV9 |
In a message dated 2/22/01 11:24:01 AM, chuck(at)chuckdirect.com writes:
>Okay, riveted the gas tank spar attach angles to the gas tank baffle.
>Set it on
>the jigged wing spar, clecoed everything down and match drilled "in assembly"
>the wing spar and tank attach angles (z bars). Now I've riveted the leading
>edge
>on. Next I am to install the tank along with half the screws and bolts.
>I am
>starting with the spar-to-attach-angle-nutplates. Nothing matches. I
>can't get
>the bolts into the nutplates. When riveting the nutplates I made sure
>everything was aligned and secure befor drilling and riveting. I don't
>understand how so many could be off alignment. Some align, perhaps three
>or
>four per tank, but most are off by 1/32 or so.
>
>1. What went wrong?
>2. What to do?
>
>Chuck Weyant
>
Chuck,
Mine werent perfectly aligned when I went to put the tanks on either. I just
put a nut driver in a cordless drill and "persuaded" them all in there.
Everything looks fine now that the wings are completed. The countersunk
screws didnt look like they wanted to line up either, I just started at the
splice strip and worked inboard, they too look fine
Kevin Shannon
-9A starting to finish
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Albuquerque FBO's |
I allways stop at Cutter in Aibuquerque or El Paso when I travel east from
California. Gas is high but the service is great. They allways find me a
hotel with the best rate and take me there and pick me up. The gear on the
Bonanza failed to extend on one trip. They made room in the shop and had it
repaired the next morning. I would rather pay more for gas and have good
service than get stuck at a small airport with no services or facilities.
Just one pilots choice.
Cash Copeland
RV6 Final Assy
Oakland, Ca
In a message dated 2/21/2001 8:25:07 PM Pacific Standard Time,
baremetl(at)gvtc.com writes:
>
> Can anyone in the Albuquerque area recommend an FBO at the big airport
> (ALB). I'm flying in for a ski vacation and need to rent a car and leave
> the plane for a week. Or would one of the smaller airports ( Coronado or
> Double Eagle ???) have rental cars available? Thanks in advance.
> Ivan Haecker
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert Moser" <moserr(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Inspection and various required forms |
Someone was looking for govt. forms and such for the inspection and
certification of homebuilt aircraft. (Maybe my memory is failing me). The EAA
member's only page has some good links, and I found this one too: http://www.alaska.faa.gov/jnufsdo/forms.htm
Seems as though many forms are available there.
Hope this helps.
Bob Moser
East Bethel, MN
RV-8 Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
rv-list
Subject: | RV8A: Parking brake valve. |
Hi Folks
I am about to order a parking brake valve for my -8A.
I think I will go with the Van's unit.
Can anybody enlighten me on pro's and con's, alternatives from, say,
Wicks, who sells two different kinds.??
Any feedback is apriciated
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
Subject: | Re: EI fuel gauge LED dimmer |
Dave,
I have EI instruments on my panel too. I have two dimmer controls for the
cockpit.
One dimmer is for general panel flood lights, on their own switch.
The second dimmer is for the EI instruments. I have it wired through the
panel flood light toggle switch. It works as follows....
If the Panel Flood Light TOGGLE switch is in the OFF position, then the EI
incadescent lights are off, and the EI Leds are at full intensity.
If the Panel Flood Light TOGGLE switch is in the ON position, the the EI
incadescent lights are on, and the #2 dimmer becomes active and controls the
intensity of the EI leds (except for the red ones which are always at full
intensity)
From what I have seen, you wouldn't want to dim the EI incadescent lights
even at night. You also wouldn't want to have the EI Leds at full intensity
at night. I didn't see any use in having the EI dimmer functional when the
panel flood lights are not on.
Hope this helps,
-Glenn Gordon
I have the dimmer wired into my Nav
---- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 12:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: EI fuel gauge LED dimmer
>
>
> Dave Biddle wrote:
> >
> >
> > I am using a Nuckols dimmer on my instrument panel.
> > The EI fuel gauge FL-2R analog LED's get dimmer as all the other
lighting
> > gets brighter with increased voltage from the dimmer.
> > I called EI, expecting to send back the unit for repair but they said
that
> > is how it is supposed to work. When I said it was backwards from all the
> > rest, they offered to send a dimmer for the fuel gauge, which they did.
(no
> > charge)
> > It is their model CP-1 which is priced at $29. It decreases voltage as
the
> > knob is turned to the right, which causes the LED's to increase in
> > brightness.
> >
> > Just a heads up, so you don't have to go back and add this control later
> > like I did, after I thought everything was done in the panel.
> >
> > Dave Biddle
> > RV6A Fuselage, engine, instruments, systems done
> > Phoenix AZ.
>
>
> If memory serves me, the rational for the "backwards" dimming protocol
> is so you can wire the EI dimmer wire to your nav light circuit. When
> the nav lights are turned on, the EI gauge will dim.
>
> This is the setup I have on my plane and it works well; the amount of
> dimming of the EI unit in my RV-6 seem just right with no additional
> dimmers required.
>
> Sam Buchanan
> "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Subject: | Re: FW: virus alert |
Please ignore any messages regarding this hoax and do not pass on messages.
Passing on messages about the hoax only serves to further propagate it.
For more information check:
http://service1.symantec.com/sarc/sarc.nsf/html/Virtual.Card.for.You.html
<http://service1.symantec.com/sarc/sarc.nsf/html/Virtual.Card.for.You.html>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM [mailto:Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM]
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 7:08 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: FW: virus alert
In a message dated 2/21/01 12:29:59 PM, rowena(at)seanet.com
writes:
>Subject: FW: virus alert
>
>
>>> >>A new virus has just been discovered that has been
classified by
>
>>> >>> Microsoft (www.microsoft.com) and by McAfee
(www.mcafee.com) as
>
>>> >>> the most destructive ever! This virus was discovered
yesterday
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Prop and Engine RPM Restrictions |
>
>
>I too recalled an restriction, and found it under a Hartzell document I got
>from Brad Huelsman @ Hartzell (937) 778-4392, it read:
>
>"Stabilized operation is prohibited above 25" of MP between 2300 and 2550,
>and below 15"MP above 2600RPM" This restriction is not significant during
>normal operations"
>
>I just took delivery of a shiny new 0-360A1A yesterday.
>
>Tampa builders: Shooting for 3/10 "Engine hannging Party"
>
>Doug Gardner -8A #80717 0-360/CS FWF
>Palm Harbor Florida
The limitation varies depending on which combination of prop and
engine dash number you have. The limitations are found in the FAA
Type Certificate Data Sheet (TCDS) for the propeller. The limitation
quoted above is the first one in TCDS P-920. It is appropriate if
you have a HC-C2YR hub with F7068 blades installed on a Lycoming
IO-360-B1A, -B1B, -B1C, -B1D, -B1E, -B1F, -E1A, -F1A or O-360-A1A,
-A1AD, -A1C, -A1D, -A1F, -A1G, -A1H, -A1LD with a diameter between 67
and 68 inches. I doubt this applies to many RV builders, as Van
sells a different prop than this.
I won't try to paste the link to the TCDS here, as it will be
truncated, which confuses some people. There is a link to it in the
Engine and Propeller section of my RV Links page, which is found at:
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks.html
Once you click on the link from my RV Links page, you need to click
on the PDF icon in the upper left corner of the page.
I won't go into the reason for the limitations, or the possible
hazard if they are ignored. As Randall said, there is good coverage
in the archives.
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RV6A tail kit for sale ! |
RV6A tail kit for sale.
Decided to build 9A instead.
Opened to inventory only.
Reply offline at WLPMAP(at)AOL.COM
Thanks
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net> |
Subject: | 2 speed elevator trim |
Bernie,James,Denis, and others
The pressure switch that I used was a "Herga" obtained from Newark
Electronics. I dont have the part # here but will look it up and report
tomorrow. Around $30 as I recall. Since it is a SPST switch, it was
necessary to use a 12V relay to get SPDT action but this did not add too
much complication. In essence it provides 2 power feeds to the servo,
one (below 120MPH ) is straight 12V, the other (above 120) inserts the
speed reducer.
Bill RV-8 N48WD
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Albuquerque FBO's |
From: | james freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
on 2/22/01 2:33 PM, JusCash(at)AOL.COM at JusCash(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> I allways stop at Cutter in Aibuquerque or El Paso when I travel east from
> California. Gas is high but the service is great. They allways find me a
> hotel with the best rate and take me there and pick me up. The gear on the
> Bonanza failed to extend on one trip. They made room in the shop and had it
> repaired the next morning. I would rather pay more for gas and have good
> service than get stuck at a small airport with no services or facilities.
> Just one pilots choice.
>
> Cash Copeland
> RV6 Final Assy
> Oakland, Ca
Same experience here. I've had almost unbelievable service from Cutter in
ElPaso, including finding me a (no notice) hotel room on one trip and fixing
a mechanical problem in record time on another, allowing me to complete my
trip to CA as planned in a single day. Good folks
James Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> |
Subject: | Re: 2 speed elevator trim |
>snip
> In essence it provides 2 power feeds to the servo,
> one (below 120MPH ) is straight 12V, the other (above 120) inserts the
> speed reducer.
>
> Bill RV-8 N48WD
>
Do you have it installed with a Matronics speed reducer/relay or one of the
MAC units?
Stan Blanton
RV-6
stanb(at)door.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Alan,
Think about how little a grand will buy for your panel and remember, it will be
obsolete in about a year. You'll be enjoying the tailwheel experience for the
rest of your flying career!
Dave RV6
>
> When I started building my 8 I had not taken a single lesson. I know I could
learn to fly faster than I could build. When it came time to order the fuselage
I had the same delema your having. However, Van's made up my mind for me
since the 8A was not in production. I know have 15 hours in a Citabria and feel
fairly confortable but not ready to fly the 8 yet. I have flown and landed
a 6A from the right seat and would not give a much thought to flying an 8A.
Over all I am est. that it is going to cost around $1000 of extra training to
get up to speed with a tailwheel over what it would cost for tri gear. I hope
this is money well spent as I feel I have learned a lot. But if I were to do
it again I can think of better places to put the grand (panel).
>
> Hope this helps
> Alan Kritzman
> Cedar Rapids, IA
> RV-8
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: RV8A: Parking brake valve. |
In a message dated 2/22/01 3:02:43 PM Pacific Standard Time, gert(at)execpc.com
writes:
<< I am about to order a parking brake valve for my -8A.
I think I will go with the Van's unit.
Can anybody enlighten me on pro's and con's, alternatives from, say,
Wicks, who sells two different kinds.??
Any feedback is appreciated >>
My opinion is that the Cleveland unit has the in and out ports in a position
that is better suited to mounting on the firewall (I put mine on the 6A in
the area normally reserved for the transition bracket from flex to hard line).
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Cantrell <kcflyrv(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | Fuel and oil hoses |
I'm considering using #111 stratoflex hoses for my fuel and oil lines. I'm
planning on firesleeve for fuel lines (gasgolator to f.p. and from f.p. to
carb). Does this sound like a reasonable idea? I want to be safe but I
wasn't planning on firesleeve for oil and pressure lines (not near exhaust
manifold). Precision Hose Technology is making them up for me at what I
think is a very reasonable price.
Ken Cantrell
RV6 w/ 0360 A1A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Subject: | Re: RV8A: Parking brake valve. |
I bought the valve from Van. It is simple to install but made out of a block
of steel. It is not big but still has some weight. If I was doing it again I
would look around for something similar made from a block of aluminum. I
would be willing to pay a little more for less weight.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
>
> I am about to order a parking brake valve for my -8A.
>
> I think I will go with the Van's unit.
>
> Can anybody enlighten me on pro's and con's, alternatives from, say,
> Wicks, who sells two different kinds.??
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rpflanze(at)iquest.net |
Subject: | Re: Starting with the LASAR |
I got an update from Unison this morning, the LASAR system does use both mags
at start-up....BUT.... if the system detects a problem with either of the mags,
it will prevent the system from starting the engine.
So, if one mag goes bad in flight, the system will revert to manual mag mode
and continue running until you shut down. From that point forward, the system
will prevent you from re-starting the engine until you replace the bad mag.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (120 hours)
>OK thanks Randy. There was an article on AV Web about the LASAR, and the
>guy said both mags are used during start. I'm using the keyed ignition that
>Van's sells.
>
>Mike
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
>To: Michael J. Robbins
>Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 4:10 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: LASAR Ignition Problem (Long post)
>
>
>> I kind of thought the same thing, but my right mag was just fine when I
>was debugging
>> the problem. Only the left mag was bad.........but not spark. I am using
>a
>> keyed ignition switch, but I removed the jumper wire which grounds the
>right
>> max during start per the instructions. I have a call into Unison this
>morning.
>> I will get the straight scoop and write you back.
>>
>> Randy
>>
>>
>> >Randy;
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com> |
Listers,
I've searched the archives, but there is not much about Catto Props other
than he is a good guy, knows a lot, and his props are cheaper than a CS
Hartzell.
I'm considering a 3 blade Catto prop for an IO-360 6A. I talked to Craig and
he said he can make the prop any way that I wanted. I can see from the
Archives that he is well regarded and liked, however, I can't see if anybody
really is happy with the prop. He is selling them, and apparently a number
of "us" are buying them because he has a 12 week waiting list. The vast
majority of the props he is selling for RVs are to those who are NOT
considering a CS prop, but rather for a "replacement" for wood or a Sensench
fixed pitch prop. For those not knowing, the Catto props are 2 or 3 blade,
can be customized for the engine and performance wanted, and are composite.
But, they are fixed pitch.
My goal is speed rather than climb (no mountains in Florida). So, the big
question.... Do I have Craig Catto build me a custom 3 blade "speed" prop,
or get a CS Hartzel like everybody else? Lots of other issues, but lets
leave $$$$ out of it. Is anybody out there using his prop who didn't buy it
because it was cheaper than the CS Hartzell? Is there somebody who actually
bought it because it would make their plane go faster? Has anybody put a
Catto prop on and then switched over to a CS Hartzell because they were not
satisfied?
Jim,
Tampa
6A, waiting for engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Starting with the LASAR |
Kind of eliminates the need to try a mid-air restart.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (spinner done)
Niantic, CT
>From: rpflanze(at)iquest.net
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Starting with the LASAR
>Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 07:33:35 est
>
>
>I got an update from Unison this morning, the LASAR system does use both
>mags
>at start-up....BUT.... if the system detects a problem with either of the
>mags,
>it will prevent the system from starting the engine.
>
>So, if one mag goes bad in flight, the system will revert to manual mag
>mode
>and continue running until you shut down. From that point forward, the
>system
>will prevent you from re-starting the engine until you replace the bad mag.
>
>
>Randy Pflanzer N417G
>RV-6 (120 hours)
>
>
> >OK thanks Randy. There was an article on AV Web about the LASAR, and the
> >guy said both mags are used during start. I'm using the keyed ignition
>that
>
> >Van's sells.
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
> >To: Michael J. Robbins
> >Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 4:10 AM
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: LASAR Ignition Problem (Long post)
> >
> >
> >> I kind of thought the same thing, but my right mag was just fine when I
> >was debugging
> >> the problem. Only the left mag was bad.........but not spark. I am
>using
>
> >a
> >> keyed ignition switch, but I removed the jumper wire which grounds the
> >right
> >> max during start per the instructions. I have a call into Unison this
> >morning.
> >> I will get the straight scoop and write you back.
> >>
> >> Randy
> >>
> >>
> >> >Randy;
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RV Forsale" <rv8aforsale(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | RV8A Divorce Sale |
RV8A Divorce Sale
RV Fans my pending divorce is forcing the sale of my RV8A project. I am
losing both my home and workshop and will very soon lack the resources to
work on my project. Enough praise of my wife's skills.
What I have is an RV8A tail, wing and fuselage kits for sale. Tail complete
except for fiberglass. Wing kit nearly complete ready for bottom skin
riveting. Fuselage kit firewall, bulkheads and floor assembly done ready for
installation into jig. It has electric trim elevator and aileron, adjustable
rudder peddles and rear peddles (both at wife's insistence) and Duckworth
landing lights from Van's in both wings. Don't want to start the primer wars
but... I am of the alodine and epoxy primer camp; all parts have been
treated that way. I am an A&P and aviation professional and the project has
been built in a
correct and airworthy manor.
Checked Van's wed site today and have found the price for the basic kits is
$12007 looking for a "fair, honest, and reasonable offer" to jump start
someone into an 8A.
Please contact me off list at (rv8aforsale(at)hotmail.com)
My tools are not for sale, as I WILL start again once I am reestablished.
Shafted in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | C/S Spinner fitted |
Thanks to all for your suggetsions.
We finished the spinner last night.
We decided to put a 1/8" spacer plate between the front bulkhead attachment
area and the front bulhead flang area. This required that we seperate the
front bulkhead flang from the attachment area (front) and cut out a circular
1/8" ring to go between the now (2) peice front bulk head. We also installed
(2) washers (1/8") between the prop hub and rear bulkhead. This still left
us with a 1/8" gap between the rear bulkhead and the cowling.
In retrospect if we had made sure that there was no interference between the
prop blades and the rear bulkhead (by manually twisting them) before we
drilled the holes in the spinner and bulkheads this would not have been
required, only the installation of spacers.
Thanks again for all the suggestions.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (spinner done - finishing up F/G work)
Niantic, CT (Westerly airport)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Does anyone know how to contact Russ Camtz?
We are looking for info on the seat covering on his RV-6A that was included
in the Yahoo picture group Randy P. provided.
Thanks,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (spinner done)
Niantic, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel and oil hoses |
>
>
>I'm considering using #111 stratoflex hoses for my fuel and oil lines. I'm
>planning on firesleeve for fuel lines (gasgolator to f.p. and from f.p. to
>carb). Does this sound like a reasonable idea? I want to be safe but I
>wasn't planning on firesleeve for oil and pressure lines (not near exhaust
>manifold). Precision Hose Technology is making them up for me at what I
>think is a very reasonable price.
>
>Ken Cantrell
>RV6 w/ 0360 A1A
>
Ken,
I used Stratoflex as well. I firesleeved both fuel and oil lines. Sleeving
the fuel lines is a must, sleeving the oil lines is optional. At least
that's the way I approached it.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Starting with the LASAR |
I have been told that if the LASAR brain-box dies, both mags will operate
but starting will be impossible due to lack of impulse coupler. I have been
advised not to try starting the engine if the LASAR is inop due to possible
kickback. We have all that potential redundancy but cannot use it!
I have also heard that Bart will supply a LASAR system with an impulse
coupler mag. You could then start and fly if the LASAR goes out. If so,
this would be the ideal configuration. Unison would not supply me with an
impulse coupled mag on my Bart's O360A1A with LASAR, so I'll try Bart next.
If anyone has better info on LASAR let's hear it!
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 46 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: rpflanze(at)iquest.net <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
Date: Friday, February 23, 2001 7:08 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Starting with the LASAR
>
>I got an update from Unison this morning, the LASAR system does use both
mags
>at start-up....BUT.... if the system detects a problem with either of the
mags,
>it will prevent the system from starting the engine.
>
>So, if one mag goes bad in flight, the system will revert to manual mag
mode
>and continue running until you shut down. From that point forward, the
system
>will prevent you from re-starting the engine until you replace the bad mag.
>
>
>Randy Pflanzer N417G
>RV-6 (120 hours)
>
>
>>OK thanks Randy. There was an article on AV Web about the LASAR, and the
>>guy said both mags are used during start. I'm using the keyed ignition
that
>
>>Van's sells.
>>
>>Mike
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
>>To: Michael J. Robbins
>>Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 4:10 AM
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: LASAR Ignition Problem (Long post)
>>
>>
>>> I kind of thought the same thing, but my right mag was just fine when I
>>was debugging
>>> the problem. Only the left mag was bad.........but not spark. I am
using
>
>>a
>>> keyed ignition switch, but I removed the jumper wire which grounds the
>>right
>>> max during start per the instructions. I have a call into Unison this
>>morning.
>>> I will get the straight scoop and write you back.
>>>
>>> Randy
>>>
>>>
>>> >Randy;
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Subject: | Builder's Clubs? |
Local Builder's Clubs?
I am renewing the list of local builders clubs for the 21 Years of the RV-ator
book. I have some, but I'm sure I'm missing others.
I need to have the following info on each club:
state (or country)
city
contact name
contact phone number
web site or contact e-mail
Here is the list I have so far. Please write back (off list) if I am missing or
need informaion about yours. Links for each will also go in the RV Specific
Links page on Builder's Bookstore
Alabama, Decatur (need phone number)
California, Bay Area
California, Los Angeles (need phone number)
California, Sacramento (need web or e-mail
Colorado, Denver (need web or e-mail)
Connecticut (need city and phone number)
Florida, Tampa
Illinois, Chicago
Kansas, Olathe
Massachusetts, Boston (need name and phone number
Michigan, Livoinia (need web or e-mail)
Minnesota, Hudson, WI
Missouri, St Charles (need phone and web/email)
North Carolina, Advance
North Carolina, Matthews (need web or e-mail)
Oklahoma, Tulsa (need phone and web/e-mail
Oregon, Portland
Texas, Houston
Texas, Lewisville
Utah, Salt Lake (need web or e-mail)
Canada, Kitchener, ON
Canada, Surrey, BC (need phone)
France, La Testa De Buch
New Zealand, Pukekohe, (need web or e-mail
Thanks,
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
info(at)buildersbooks.com
http://buildersbooks.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: Starting with the LASAR |
Have you talked to Harry Fenton? Harry(at)unisonindustries.com
Unless he is the source, I would not place much credence in impossible to
start. Harry is the better source when it comes to LAZAR.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
EAA Chapter 75 helping fellow aviators
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 9:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Starting with the LASAR
>
> I have been told that if the LASAR brain-box dies, both mags will operate
> but starting will be impossible due to lack of impulse coupler. I have
been
> advised not to try starting the engine if the LASAR is inop due to
possible
> kickback. We have all that potential redundancy but cannot use it!
>
> I have also heard that Bart will supply a LASAR system with an impulse
> coupler mag. You could then start and fly if the LASAR goes out. If so,
> this would be the ideal configuration. Unison would not supply me with an
> impulse coupled mag on my Bart's O360A1A with LASAR, so I'll try Bart
next.
>
> If anyone has better info on LASAR let's hear it!
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 46 hours
> Hampshire, IL C38
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rpflanze(at)iquest.net <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, February 23, 2001 7:08 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Re: Starting with the LASAR
>
>
> >
> >I got an update from Unison this morning, the LASAR system does use both
> mags
> >at start-up....BUT.... if the system detects a problem with either of the
> mags,
> >it will prevent the system from starting the engine.
> >
> >So, if one mag goes bad in flight, the system will revert to manual mag
> mode
> >and continue running until you shut down. From that point forward, the
> system
> >will prevent you from re-starting the engine until you replace the bad
mag.
> >
> >
> >Randy Pflanzer N417G
> >RV-6 (120 hours)
> >
> >
> >>OK thanks Randy. There was an article on AV Web about the LASAR, and
the
> >>guy said both mags are used during start. I'm using the keyed ignition
> that
> >
> >>Van's sells.
> >>
> >>Mike
> >>
> >>----- Original Message -----
> >>From: <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
> >>To: Michael J. Robbins
> >>Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 4:10 AM
> >>Subject: Re: RV-List: LASAR Ignition Problem (Long post)
> >>
> >>
> >>> I kind of thought the same thing, but my right mag was just fine when
I
> >>was debugging
> >>> the problem. Only the left mag was bad.........but not spark. I am
> using
> >
> >>a
> >>> keyed ignition switch, but I removed the jumper wire which grounds the
> >>right
> >>> max during start per the instructions. I have a call into Unison this
> >>morning.
> >>> I will get the straight scoop and write you back.
> >>>
> >>> Randy
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> >Randy;
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
Subject: | Re: Builder's Clubs? |
Hi Andy,
You can put me down as the Boston, MA contact guy. I started Boston RV Builders
last September and it's morphing into the VAF - New England Wing. Both names
should probably be listed.
My contact info is:
Ken Balch
15 Magnolia Pointe
Ashland, MA 01721-2528
508-231-8021
kbalch1(at)mediaone.net
groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders
Let me know if you need any other info.
Regards,
Ken
Builder's Bookstore wrote:
>
> Local Builder's Clubs?
>
> I am renewing the list of local builders clubs for the 21 Years of the RV-ator
> book. I have some, but I'm sure I'm missing others.
>
> I need to have the following info on each club:
> state (or country)
> city
> contact name
> contact phone number
> web site or contact e-mail
>
> Here is the list I have so far. Please write back (off list) if I am missing
or
> need informaion about yours. Links for each will also go in the RV Specific
> Links page on Builder's Bookstore
>
> Alabama, Decatur (need phone number)
> California, Bay Area
> California, Los Angeles (need phone number)
> California, Sacramento (need web or e-mail
> Colorado, Denver (need web or e-mail)
> Connecticut (need city and phone number)
> Florida, Tampa
> Illinois, Chicago
> Kansas, Olathe
> Massachusetts, Boston (need name and phone number
> Michigan, Livoinia (need web or e-mail)
> Minnesota, Hudson, WI
> Missouri, St Charles (need phone and web/email)
> North Carolina, Advance
> North Carolina, Matthews (need web or e-mail)
> Oklahoma, Tulsa (need phone and web/e-mail
> Oregon, Portland
> Texas, Houston
> Texas, Lewisville
> Utah, Salt Lake (need web or e-mail)
> Canada, Kitchener, ON
> Canada, Surrey, BC (need phone)
> France, La Testa De Buch
> New Zealand, Pukekohe, (need web or e-mail
>
> Thanks,
> Andy
> Builder's Bookstore
> info(at)buildersbooks.com
> http://buildersbooks.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rpflanze(at)iquest.net |
Subject: | Re: Starting with the LASAR |
>I have been told that if the LASAR brain-box dies, both mags >will operate but
starting will be impossible due to lack of >impulse coupler. I have been advised
not to try starting the >engine if the LASAR is inop due to possible kickback.
We have >all that potential redundancy but cannot use it!
That's one way to look at it Dennis, but I think the likelihood that the brains
are going to die is very rare, at least according to Unison. Also, there is
no need to worry about kickback if the LASAR is inop because there is no spark.
The mags will not fire unless instructed by the "brains" to do so. If power
is off due to a blown fuse, etc, the engine will not start even if both mags
are fine.
Now, all of the preceding description relates to STARTING the engine. If the
engine is already running when a failure occurs, it works differently. If the
brains die or a mag goes bad or both, the good magneto(s) will continue to provide
spark in manual mode until the engine is shut down.
In my case, I had two different problems with the mags that the LASAR system
warned me about. The first one, the engine would not start at all because the
left mag was failing to make breaker contact. If I only had manual mags, I
would have found the problem one of two ways. Either it wouldn't have started
because the bad mag was the one the impulse coupling, or I would have discovered
that it wasn't working when I did my mag check at run up. Either way, the LASAR
system prevented me from overlooking the problem. The second problem occurred
when my left mag was producing lower than normal current. In this case the
engine started and ran fine but the LASAR system warned me with a manual mode
light. I don't how I could have caught this problem with manual magnetos, although
the argument could be made that this problem is only inherent with the LASAR
magnetos and not manual ones. I don't know enough about the problem to say
for sure.
So the redundancy of the LASAR system is designed to keep you flying once you're
flying, but it keeps you on the ground when it detects a problem. I am not
uncomforatble with that approach.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (120 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rpflanze(at)iquest.net |
Subject: | Re: Starting with the LASAR |
Harry and John work side-by-side at Unison. I met both of them when I went up
to have my problem diagnosed. I gathered from my meeting that John is handling
a bulk of the LASAR questions at this point. John is also very good and very
helpful. They both will be at the Unison booth at Sun-n-Fun.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (120 hours)
>
>Have you talked to Harry Fenton? Harry(at)unisonindustries.com
>
>Unless he is the source, I would not place much credence in impossible to
>start. Harry is the better source when it comes to LAZAR.
>
>
>Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
>EAA Chapter 75 helping fellow aviators
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
>To:
>Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 9:25 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Starting with the LASAR
>
>
>>
>> I have been told that if the LASAR brain-box dies, both mags will operate
>> but starting will be impossible due to lack of impulse coupler. I have
>been
>> advised not to try starting the engine if the LASAR is inop due to
>possible
>> kickback. We have all that potential redundancy but cannot use it!
>>
>> I have also heard that Bart will supply a LASAR system with an impulse
>> coupler mag. You could then start and fly if the LASAR goes out. If so,
>> this would be the ideal configuration. Unison would not supply me with an
>> impulse coupled mag on my Bart's O360A1A with LASAR, so I'll try Bart
>next.
>>
>> If anyone has better info on LASAR let's hear it!
>>
>> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 46 hours
>> Hampshire, IL C38
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: rpflanze(at)iquest.net <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Date: Friday, February 23, 2001 7:08 AM
>> Subject: RV-List: Re: Starting with the LASAR
>>
>>
>> >
>> >I got an update from Unison this morning, the LASAR system does use both
>> mags
>> >at start-up....BUT.... if the system detects a problem with either of the
>> mags,
>> >it will prevent the system from starting the engine.
>> >
>> >So, if one mag goes bad in flight, the system will revert to manual mag
>> mode
>> >and continue running until you shut down. From that point forward, the
>> system
>> >will prevent you from re-starting the engine until you replace the bad
>mag.
>> >
>> >
>> >Randy Pflanzer N417G
>> >RV-6 (120 hours)
>> >
>> >
>> >>OK thanks Randy. There was an article on AV Web about the LASAR, and
>the
>> >>guy said both mags are used during start. I'm using the keyed ignition
>> that
>> >
>> >>Van's sells.
>> >>
>> >>Mike
>> >>
>> >>----- Original Message -----
>> >>From: <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
>> >>To: Michael J. Robbins
>> >>Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 4:10 AM
>> >>Subject: Re: RV-List: LASAR Ignition Problem (Long post)
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>> I kind of thought the same thing, but my right mag was just fine when
>I
>> >>was debugging
>> >>> the problem. Only the left mag was bad.........but not spark. I am
>> using
>> >
>> >>a
>> >>> keyed ignition switch, but I removed the jumper wire which grounds the
>> >>right
>> >>> max during start per the instructions. I have a call into Unison this
>> >>morning.
>> >>> I will get the straight scoop and write you back.
>> >>>
>> >>> Randy
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> >Randy;
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RV8bldr" <RV8bldr(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Flush Rivet Help |
Listers:
I remember reading on the list a while back a way to clean up any slight
roughness around the head of flush rivets. I have started my HS skin
riveting and have a few rivets that are functionally fine, but have not set
perfectly flush. I know after prime/paint it will probably smooth out, but I
would like to get them as good as I can. I have searched the archives, but
can't find the post I want. I seem to remember someone had a way to easily
"polish" the rivet head to a flush finish. Ring any bells with anyone?
Russ Christopher
RV-8 Emp
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Pro-Seal alternative |
> Norm,
>
> I saw the bit you wrote in the RVator (I have the "18 Years of...") back
in
> '97 regarding the alternative to ProSeal available from Aircraft Spruce
(p/n
> 09-38500 or 09-38510). I wrote Van's and asked them if they thought the
> stuff was ok to use and they referred me back to you.
>
> Have you used it? If so, how is it working out? Thanks.
Used it and loved it. I started with the kit from van so have tried both. If
I were doing it again I would buy a bunch of the small kits from ACS. They
end up being more money but the difference is that the ACS kits simplify the
whole process. You don't have to worry about mixing the 10 to 1 perfectly
(Vans kit) and there is much less toxic smell as everything is contained.
Pro-seal has seriously bad nerve damaging toxins in it and I found the ACS
kits vastly reduced my exposure to it. The ACS kits have an internal mixing
mechanism that is hard to describe but is totally trick. This is what the
airlines use.
Down side is cost and if you go with Vans kit and need a second kit (I would
have) you will always have some kicking around for all the other small jobs
that it is recommended for. The ACS kits are a throw away at the end of the
day. Keep all pro-seal type garbage out of your house/shop. At the end of
your day clean your shop of all of this toxic waste; get it outside.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Seat Heating Pads ? |
There's a decent thread going on right now over at the AeroElectric List.
>
> Some aircraft have eating pads embedded in the seats to supplement heated
> air. Is there a source for such pads ? Has anyone adapted automobile seat
> heating pads for this purpose ? How much heat power do these pads provide
?
>
I put automotive heated seat pads into my leather seats. They don't work if
you are doing thick woolen sheepskin but they work great with any thinner
material.
Mine have two settings, high, low and off. The kit includes a very nice
lighted switch. The high setting uses 4 amps (per seat) and each seat has
it's own control. The high setting is great for the first ten minutes in
normal cool temps but will eventually cook your butt if it is any warmer
than -10 Celsius. The low setting is perfect for long term use even on days
up to +10 Celsius. I have a friend that uses them in the summer when driving
home from a game of golf. He swears by them but swearing isn't nice....
Also available are heated vests that plug into a cig lighter socket.
Available at most motorcycle shops. Again, they don't work unless you wear
them under your clothes near your skin, perhaps just on top of a T-shirt.
I recently rented a snowmobile that used this same technology to heat the
handgrips. They were great.
I am now spoiled and will not buy a car without these but any good
automotive upholstery shop can add them for around $200 USD per seat. My
wife's car has them and she has declared I can never get her a car without
them ever again. Ho-hum.......
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Pro-Seal alternative |
-----Original Message-----
From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Date: Friday, February 23, 2001 12:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Pro-Seal alternative
>
>> Norm,
>>
>> I saw the bit you wrote in the RVator (I have the "18 Years of...") back
>in
>> '97 regarding the alternative to ProSeal available from Aircraft Spruce
>(p/n
>> 09-38500 or 09-38510). I wrote Van's and asked them if they thought the
>> stuff was ok to use and they referred me back to you.
>>
>> Have you used it? If so, how is it working out? Thanks.
>
>
>Pro-seal has seriously bad nerve damaging toxins in it and I found the ACS
>kits vastly reduced my exposure to it. The ACS kits have an internal mixing
>mechanism that is hard to describe but is totally trick. This is what the
>airlines use.
>
>Norman Hunger
>RV6A Delta BC
>
I wonder what your source is regarding the "seriously bad nerve damaging
toxins"? I have the Courtlands Aerospace MSDS for Pro-Seal 890 B-2 Base
Compound and Accelerator in front of me as I type. It appears to me that
the worst offender is toluene, present at 5% concentration. Under Section
VIII, Special Protection Information, the MSDS calls out only "general
ventilation to maintain vapors below TLV". I don't have an MSDS for the
ACS product so I cannot compare the two products. However, I see nothing in
the Courtlands MSDS that meets your description. I think you will find that
you will encounter far more serious compounds in building an RV then
Pro-Seal.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 46 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Karl Shiling" <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Seat Heating Pads ? |
Yes National Auto Spa 765-642-4399
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pro-Seal alternative |
To all who use the proseal or the acs system it is in
essence the same product the acs mixes the two parts
in a tube and then you use the nozzle on the tube to
spread out the proseal mix. You still get the smell.
In my experience (and there is a lot of experience
here from me using both types) you may want to consult
the M.S.D.Sheet to find out if there are any
associated health risks involved. I dont foresee any
health risks unless you get the stuff all over you and
don't clean up after yourself and let the proseal cure
on your skin. Just make sure you use plenty of rubber
gloves and a long sleeve shirt to protect your arms
from getting any on you and you will be fine. For you
guys who are anal a respirator will keep the smell
from making you gag.
Glenn Williams
--- Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, February 23, 2001 12:24 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Re: Pro-Seal alternative
>
>
>
> >
> >> Norm,
> >>
> >> I saw the bit you wrote in the RVator (I have the
> "18 Years of...") back
> >in
> >> '97 regarding the alternative to ProSeal
> available from Aircraft Spruce
> >(p/n
> >> 09-38500 or 09-38510). I wrote Van's and asked
> them if they thought the
> >> stuff was ok to use and they referred me back to
> you.
> >>
> >> Have you used it? If so, how is it working out?
> Thanks.
> >
> >
> >Pro-seal has seriously bad nerve damaging toxins in
> it and I found the ACS
> >kits vastly reduced my exposure to it. The ACS kits
> have an internal mixing
> >mechanism that is hard to describe but is totally
> trick. This is what the
> >airlines use.
> >
> >Norman Hunger
> >RV6A Delta BC
> >
>
>
> I wonder what your source is regarding the
> "seriously bad nerve damaging
> toxins"? I have the Courtlands Aerospace MSDS for
> Pro-Seal 890 B-2 Base
> Compound and Accelerator in front of me as I type.
> It appears to me that
> the worst offender is toluene, present at 5%
> concentration. Under Section
> VIII, Special Protection Information, the MSDS calls
> out only "general
> ventilation to maintain vapors below TLV". I don't
> have an MSDS for the
> ACS product so I cannot compare the two products.
> However, I see nothing in
> the Courtlands MSDS that meets your description. I
> think you will find that
> you will encounter far more serious compounds in
> building an RV then
> Pro-Seal.
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 46 hours
> Hampshire, IL C38
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices! http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Pro-Seal alternative |
NORMAN- IT WORKS EVEN BETTER WITH THE AIR GUN REGARDS TOM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: 6 vs 6a (halfway humor-hit DELETE now) |
In a message dated 02/23/2001 9:34:58 AM Eastern Standard Time,
billshook(at)mindspring.com writes:
<< I want to be able to botch a landing and not be
thinking of whether or not the gear is going to snap....if I really screw up
a taildragger landing (which I've done many times), simply throttle up and
you get to fly the plane a few more minutes as you make pattern to do it
again. Besides, as has been stated many times....the RV taildragger is
barely a taildragger by old world standards.
Bill
-4 wings >>
that is also the best way to salvage a botched trigear landing in a 6A (yes,
they happen, and yes, I learned this from experience.) Feed in the power,
and before you can even proceed further into the go-around sequence, the
porpoising stops, the ship stabilizes a foot or so off the turf, and she's
ready for a smooth landing if there's runway remaining.
Point well taken about the 6 being tame by taildragger standards. I have
flown both.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Approach Power Settings.....again |
Dennis,
Did you ever get an answer to your question? Since I was taught to fly IFR
"by the numbers" I am inyerested in what others are doing?
>My questions are, what power settings do you use and what speed do you fly
the approach?
>Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 46 hours (all in severe clear VFR)
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Power charts/curves |
Kevin Horton,
I was fooling around with your speadsheet and noticed that they end at 2000
rpm. Is the O360 never flown at lower than 2000 rpm?
When Dennis started this (now extended) thread, he said....
"My problem was that at 90K and 500 fpm descent, I was right smack in the
center of the prohibited band! I had set the RPM to 2300 for starters as I
do for normal pattern work, but as I reduced MP to achieve 90K and 500 fpm
descent, the prop could no longer servo and RPM decayed to within the
prohibited band."
I would suspect that another way to approach this problem is to set the rpm
below the 2000 rpm "restriction" and run the manifold pressure up to the
power setting you need. This may start a thread on running "over-squared"
which would be fine (please rewrite the subject line).
Is data available to extend your power chart into the teens?
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
Subject: | Re: Aircraft designators |
The Diamond Katana's official designation was changed to DV-20 a few years ago
to
avoid confusion with the Dassault Falcon 20 (the 'real' DA-20).
I wish I had a buck for every hour I spent instructing in the DV-20. Actually,
that's about what I earned... :-)
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
canopy & panel
www.egroups.com/files/bostonrvbuilders
bcbraem(at)home.com wrote:
>
> As an additional aside, the original Katana (Diamond) DA-20
> single-engine trainer, also has the same designator as a popular
> twin-engine business jet--so let those students rack up hours for the airlines.
>
> Boyd
> N600SS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken Glover" <wirraway2(at)bravo.net.au> |
Subject: | Re: Jon's Tip Tanks Question.. |
<<< Jon's Instructions say when mounting the tip
tanks to just drill through
> existing holes. Im building a QB 6A and
obviously they dont already have
> them installed, so my question is what spacing
for the screws and platenuts
> did you use? The plans show 2 1/2 in, but that
is for a basic fiberglass tip
> and I assume since it will put some stress on
the tip spacing will need to be
> shorter. >>>
Hi Kurt,
The 2.5 inch spacing is all that is necessary, and
that is the way mine are done. There would be no
problem in reducing the distance to 2 inches for
greater distribution of weight/load.
Jon's tanks have, what looks like a stainless
steel metal band (tough to drill through), glassed
into the edge where the nutplates are attached,
and is VERY strong. Quality of the tanks are first
class.......
Cheers,
Ken Glover Hunter Valley Australia RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "BERNIE KERR" <KERRJB(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Oil sump heater?? |
I ordered an oil sump heater from Vans that plugs into 110 when you
overnite in those shivering places that I wish to visit in the winter. I
was underwhelmed by what I received.
Do any of you poor northern types use this device with good results?
Bernie Kerr, 6A, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
catto made composite fixed props for racers and aerobatic guys several years
ago, there were several prop failures. no one i know uses them in aerobatics
today because of the these prop failures.
there is a guy who makes carbon fiber fixed props (his name escapes
me) which have proven to be very good props. constant speed, talk to jim rust
at whirlwind, 916-582-3725 in san diego. hes honest and produces a constant
speed that is far superior others and at a price less expensive. CALL JIM...
mike
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Oil sump heater?? |
BERNIE KERR wrote:
>
> I ordered an oil sump heater from Vans that plugs into 110 when you
> overnite in those shivering places that I wish to visit in the winter. I
> was underwhelmed by what I received.
>
> Do any of you poor northern types use this device with good results?
Mine is a 12 x 12" pad that RTV glues to the bottom of the sump. If I want
to fly in the morning, I'll put it on a timer that starts it up about 3:00AM
and I put a blanket over the cowl. When I get the the airport after
breakfast, everything is toasty warm inside and the engine starts up quick
and nice. I'm sure some would cite some technical reasons why other systems
are better. But this seems to work for me.
Andy
Winter Park, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
I want to run Manual flaps on my 9A but Vans says no---any other 9 builders
out there want manual? I'm going to check and see if the 6 set-up can be
retrofitted.
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Oil sump heater?? |
If your referring to a 4" square orange pad, yes it works well.
Gary
BERNIE KERR wrote:
>
> I ordered an oil sump heater from Vans that plugs into 110 when you
> overnite in those shivering places that I wish to visit in the winter. I
> was underwhelmed by what I received.
>
> Do any of you poor northern types use this device with good results?
>
> Bernie Kerr, 6A, SE Fla
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | 12v Dry Cells... |
Hi Listers,
This might have been discussed already, but a friend of mine passed the
URL below on to me today and it seemed like something that might be
handy for saving a few lbs in a plane. Anyone tried these drycells in
an aircraft enviroment?
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
Subject: | Re: manual flaps |
No flame intended but once you have used Vans electric flaps will not
want to go back.I removed the the manual and installed electric on
RV4--282EM and they really work slick. 400 hours later and they still
work great.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cliff Begnaud" <Shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com> |
Subject: | Re: manual flaps |
YES, YES, YES !!!!
I bugged them about this also, I know of a -6A owner that switced to
electric flaps and still has the mechanism for manual flaps. When I get to
that stage I will see if the mechanism will work with the 9, but I doubt
that it will, otherwise Vans could offer it.
Please let me know what you discover.
Regards,
Cliff
Just started wings,
Erie, CO
> I want to run Manual flaps on my 9A but Vans says no---any other 9
builders
> out there want manual? I'm going to check and see if the 6 set-up can be
> retrofitted.
>
> Greg Tanner
> RV-9A Empennage
> SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>Bob,
>
>Tailwheel airplanes are not really harder but they are different and
>somewhat less forgiving. Almost any pilot could learn to fly one. To
be
>sure though, it would be a real good idea to get a tailwheel checkout
now.
>That will give you the information you need. I know it may not be easy
to
>find a suitable instructor and airplane but if you have to travel a
little
>and take some time off won't it be worth it to feel confident enough to
be
>able to build that beautiful 6. If you are really leaning toward the 6A
it
>doesn't sound like a problem though.
>
>I do have first hand experience with someone that could not learn to fly
a
>taildragger. I ran into him when I was RV-6 shopping before I finally
>decided to build. He was not a pilot at all and had completed a pretty
>nice
>RV-6. At this point he found he could not learn to land it, hence the
>reason for it being for sale. I also met a fellow who was a high time
>pilot
>who turned his RV-6A over on the first flight, so having a nose gear
does
>not preclude the possibility of damaging an airplane.
>
>Larry Pardue
>Carlsbad, NM
Bob,
Larry's advice is the best that you could get.
Go get some dual in a tail dragger airplane and see what it is like for
you.
You can listen to other peoples opinions all day long about what model
you should build or how difficult they are to fly, or etc., etc.,
Not every one ends up liking to fly tail draggers. Not every one ever
gets that hang of it (and some people flying them now don't have the hang
of it :-) ).
Recently on the list was an RV-8 for sale. The builder waited until he
was working on the fuselage before he got any time in a tail dragger and
then found that he just couldn't get the hang of it.
Now I hope I wont hear any listers saying "he must not be much of a
pilot".
That is not at all true.
True... with enough dual most people can get up to speed but if they
don't it doesn't mean they are not much of a pilot. Sometimes it is that
old habits are hard to break and like Larry said "they are not
necessarily harder but they are different.
Considering the amount of money you will invest in building an RV...
please don't take anyone else's word for it (mine included).
Invest a comparable small amount of money and go find out what YOU think.
Scott McDaniels
Aurora, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
P.S. I think if you poll most all of the employees at Vans who fly they
would all say they would build a trike if the were building again. After
flying enough hours in all the models in all conditions I guess it is
easier to use operational issues rather than ego when making the decision
:-).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Approach Power Settings.....again |
No, I've not gotten any answers yet. In addition to knowing approach power
settings, I'd be interested in knowing how to get the plane slowed down to
maneuvering speed. It seems as though Van's Va is predicated upon 6G
loading, but when flying with a passenger and baggage, it will of course be
less. I'm not concerned about full control deflections but rather vertical
gusts in turbulence. Any listers got Va numbers based on full gross they'd
care to share?
Today I determined that at 2000 RPM and 19 inches, my speed was 125 KIAS and
fuel burn was about 6.5 gph. My power-off stall at gross is 50 KIAS so for
4.0 g loading, it seems that my Va would be down around 100 knots. That's
pretty low power and a nose-high attitude!
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 47 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Ross Mickey <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Date: Friday, February 23, 2001 3:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: Approach Power Settings.....again
>
>Dennis,
>Did you ever get an answer to your question? Since I was taught to fly IFR
>"by the numbers" I am inyerested in what others are doing?
>
>>My questions are, what power settings do you use and what speed do you fly
>the approach?
>>Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 46 hours (all in severe clear VFR)
>
>Ross
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
Catto props are the props of choice in the Bi-Plane class at Reno.
Tom
PittsS1(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> catto made composite fixed props for racers and aerobatic guys several years
> ago, there were several prop failures. no one i know uses them in aerobatics
> today because of the these prop failures.
> there is a guy who makes carbon fiber fixed props (his name escapes
> me) which have proven to be very good props. constant speed, talk to jim rust
> at whirlwind, 916-582-3725 in san diego. hes honest and produces a constant
> speed that is far superior others and at a price less expensive. CALL JIM...
> mike
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Wing Rocking with Nav Aid Autopilot |
For the past 45 flying hours I have observed an annoying tendency with my
NavAid Devices autopilot in my 6A. In track, wing lever and commanded turn
modes, the wings rock. The rocking period is about 2 seconds. The roll
amplitude is only a degree or so, very tiny, but the abrupt recovery and
consequent overshoot is annoying. The rocking is asymmetrical, in that it
slowly rolls off-level and then, BANG, returns to level. Then it does the
same thing, rolling slightly to the other side and abruptly recovering. When
I turn off the A/P, the plane flys hands-off straight and level with no
control input for up to a minute in calm air with no wing rocking. It is an
autopilot problem.
I received a resistor from NAD which I installed to reduce gain. It did
nothing whatever to alleviate the problem. NAD has requested that I send
the unit back to them, but before I do, I want to make sure this is not a
fundamental design problem with the unit.
Today in all modes, track, lever and turn, I added considerable manual
aileron trim bias. This had the effect of increasing the period to about 5
seconds, an apparent improvement, but not a satisfactory solution.
My question is, do others observe this with their NAD autopilots or am I the
only one? I'd like some honest inputs before I invest in an S-Tec!
Thanks!
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 47 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net> |
Subject: | Re: 2 speed elevator trim |
Stan,
I am using the MAC speed reducer but there is no reason why the Matronics
unit would not work just as well or better.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 9:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 2 speed elevator trim
>
> >snip
> > In essence it provides 2 power feeds to the servo,
> > one (below 120MPH ) is straight 12V, the other (above 120) inserts the
> > speed reducer.
> >
> > Bill RV-8 N48WD
> >
>
>
> Do you have it installed with a Matronics speed reducer/relay or one of
the
> MAC units?
>
> Stan Blanton
> RV-6
> stanb(at)door.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net> |
Bernie, James, Denis, and others
More info on the Herga pressure switch--Newark Electronics stock
No.46WX771 ( or Farnell part No. 731912 ). (Farnell was bought out by
Newark.) 1999 price was $33
Regards, Bill RV-8 N48WD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brown, Ken" <Ken.Brown(at)cmtsd.mea.com> |
Just wanted to correct some information about Whirl Wind Propellers. The
phone number is (619) 562-3725, and their website is
http://whirlwindpropellers.com/
Don't know anything about the company, but I knew that the area code that
Mike posted was not right for Sandy Eggo as I live here, so I looked them up
on the web.
Ken Brown
> -----Original Message-----
> From: PittsS1(at)AOL.COM [mailto:PittsS1(at)AOL.COM]
> Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 3:31 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Catto Props
>
>
>
> catto made composite fixed props for racers and aerobatic
> guys several years
> ago, there were several prop failures. no one i know uses
> them in aerobatics
> today because of the these prop failures.
> there is a guy who makes carbon fiber fixed props (his
> name escapes
> me) which have proven to be very good props. constant speed,
> talk to jim rust
> at whirlwind, 916-582-3725 in san diego. hes honest and
> produces a constant
> speed that is far superior others and at a price less
> expensive. CALL JIM...
> mike
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "skybolt-aviator" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: manual flaps |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cliff Begnaud" <Shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com>
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 7:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: manual flaps
>
>
> YES, YES, YES !!!!
>
> > I want to run Manual flaps on my 9A but Vans says no---any other 9
> builders
> > out there want manual? I'm going to check and see if the 6 set-up can be
> > retrofitted.
> >
> > Greg Tanner
> > RV-9A Empennage
> > SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
My question is why would you want the manual flaps when the electric are so
simple and work so well.??
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "skybolt-aviator" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wing Rocking with Nav Aid Autopilot |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 8:17 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wing Rocking with Nav Aid Autopilot
>
> For the past 45 flying hours I have observed an annoying tendency with my
> NavAid Devices autopilot in my 6A. In track, wing lever and commanded
turn
> modes, the wings rock. The rocking period is about 2 seconds. Dennis
Persyk 6A N600DP 47 hours
> Hampshire, IL C38
>
> Mine flys the plane very well and tracks good also.
Ollie&Lorene Washburn
RV6-A,N795LW,@FD77.
O-360,180HP,C/S,300+hrs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM |
I have ordered a catto 2-blade for speed because i can't afford a
constant-spd. BUT--------------I am also told that a properly pitched fixed
pitch is at least as fast as the constant-spd, just not as versatile.[ weight
of cons-spd--vs--fixed ] mike--rv-4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM |
regarding catto failures on aerobatic planes in the
past-------------------------get the full story about what happened and
you'll see it was not craig catto's fault.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
To those that wonder why anyone would want manual flaps, ever flown a 172
with johnson bar flaps then flown one with electric? I'd take my manual
flaps any day over the electric. I can pull em on--any amount I want--and
dump em in a flash if I need to. Try that with electric.
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of skybolt-aviator
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 6:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: manual flaps
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cliff Begnaud" <Shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com>
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 7:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: manual flaps
>
>
> YES, YES, YES !!!!
>
> > I want to run Manual flaps on my 9A but Vans says no---any other 9
> builders
> > out there want manual? I'm going to check and see if the 6 set-up can be
> > retrofitted.
> >
> > Greg Tanner
> > RV-9A Empennage
> > SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
My question is why would you want the manual flaps when the electric are so
simple and work so well.??
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
And if you do get contact info, let me know ... I want to ask about the
beautiful cowling work *and* the paint job!
Thanks,
James
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charles
Rowbotham
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 3:00 PM
Subject: RV-List: Russ Camtz ?
Does anyone know how to contact Russ Camtz?
We are looking for info on the seat covering on his RV-6A that was included
in the Yahoo picture group Randy P. provided.
Thanks,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (spinner done)
Niantic, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: manual flaps |
--- Jerry Springer wrote:
> >
> > I want to run Manual flaps on my 9A but Vans says no---any other 9
> builders
> > out there want manual? I'm going to check and see if the 6 set-up
> can be
> > retrofitted.
> >
> > Greg Tanner
> > RV-9A Empennage
> > SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
> >
>
> Just curious Greg why you want manual flaps? I run manual on my RV-6
> for the first couple hundred hours and then switched to electric,
> I am much much happier with electric.
>
> Jerry
Greg:
I have manual flaps on my RV-6 and like the manual. I am about ready
to change over to the electric as my girlfriend cannot get the last
notch of flaps. When she flys the airplane (she flew more than half
the hours since October) we never use more than 30 degrees of flaps
unless I put them out.
I like the manual flaps but they are not for everybody. My girlfriend
pilot does not like the manual flaps. Over the last 3 months, she flew
more RV PIC hours (in my RV-6) than I did.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
766+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
Subject: | Re: manual flaps |
>
> To those that wonder why anyone would want manual flaps, ever flown a 172
> with johnson bar flaps then flown one with electric? I'd take my manual
> flaps any day over the electric. I can pull em on--any amount I want--and
> dump em in a flash if I need to. Try that with electric.
>
I couldn't agree with you more--about a 172. An RV is a bit different.
More power to you if you really want to go to the trouble of retrofitting
manual flaps to your RV but don't assume RV manual flaps are anything like
172 manual flaps; they are not. Try the manual flaps if possible. Some
people are happy with them but many find them very awkward to use because of
the position of the handle, the lack of leverage and the fact your elbow
wants to go into your passenger's rib cage during actuation. Notice what
posters have said who had manual and converted to electric.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gusndale(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Titanium Tie Down winter deal... |
Randy,
I would like to get one of the polished five coil Ti-down kits with an
Navy blue bag for the RV-list price of $70
Dale Wotring
Vancouver, WA
RV6A,
Lycoming 0-360A2A
Sensennich Fixed Pitch (84)
working on panel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: manual flaps |
Greg Tanner wrote:
>
>
> To those that wonder why anyone would want manual flaps, ever flown a 172
> with johnson bar flaps then flown one with electric? I'd take my manual
> flaps any day over the electric. I can pull em on--any amount I want--and
> dump em in a flash if I need to. Try that with electric.
>
> Greg Tanner
> RV-9A Empennage
> SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
This is a very familiar argument for manual flaps since I said nearly
the same thing three years ago when I was building my RV-6 with manual
flaps. I had five years of flying a Warrior with the manual flaps and
came to appreciate the advantages of the Johnson bar.
However, after a hundred hours of manual flaps in my RV-6, I converted
to electric. And I like the electric flaps! It only takes a couple of
seconds to dump nearly all the residual lift immediately following
touchdown if desired; matter of fact, for a really short field landing,
I start retracting the flaps just before the wheels touch the ground.
This is easy to do since the flap switch is mounted right below the
throttle and can be massaged at the same the throttle is feathered.
Also, I really like not having to fish around between the seats for the
lever.
Both systems work well, but after flying both, I really can't see any
reason not to have the electric version.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 240 hrs)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Russ Camtz ? |
From: | "Denis (Bum) Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 2/23/01 21:23, James E. Clark at jclark(at)conterra.com wrote:
>
> And if you do get contact info, let me know ... I want to ask about the
> beautiful cowling work *and* the paint job!
>
> Thanks,
>
> James
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charles
> Rowbotham
> Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 3:00 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Russ Camtz ?
>
>
>
> Does anyone know how to contact Russ Camtz?
>
> We are looking for info on the seat covering on his RV-6A that was included
> in the Yahoo picture group Randy P. provided.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
> RV-8A (spinner done)
> Niantic, CT
>
Russ is hangared in Fort Collins-Loveland, Colorado (FNL). I get up there
once in a while, and watched his work during construction; however I don't
have his phone number. If I think I will ask him next week. He did do all
that work (including the paint!) himself. A great craftsman. I believe he
did the seats too! Or possibly had them done locally. He got the plenum
and nose hole cowl parts from Sam James I believe and pretty much re did it
altogether to get the perfect fit in the front. Recently he removed and
replaced his gorgeous panel to achieve a little better arrangement, with a
tilt on the right side gages. This is one marvelous RV. Bill Von Dane took
a bunch of pictures when we visited a few months ago. Perhaps that is what
got your attention. Oh yes he is redoing his lower wheel pant cuffs to make
them more flush. Don't get the idea this is a hangar queen. he has had
it to California and on several other fairly long cross countries. Flies
it quite a bit.
D Walsh (with the beat up green RV-6A)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM |
You can get the full story from Craig Catto or from the guys that modified
the prop installations causing the failure.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Wing Rocking with Nav Aid Autopilot |
In a message dated 2/23/01 5:21:44 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< My question is, do others observe this with their NAD autopilots or am I
the
only one? I'd like some honest inputs before I invest in an S-Tec! >>
Dennis-
Never had the problem you mention. I did install the resistor, but that was
only to cure the well know shaking stick issue.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: manual flaps |
All right then, I think we have found a new topic for never ending debate.
Kevin in WA
NOSEWHEEL. SLIDER, PRIMED ON THE INSIDE, COMPOSITE PROP, and elec flaps -9A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Power charts/curves |
>
>Kevin Horton,
>
>I was fooling around with your speadsheet and noticed that they end at 2000
>rpm. Is the O360 never flown at lower than 2000 rpm?
>
>When Dennis started this (now extended) thread, he said....
>
>"My problem was that at 90K and 500 fpm descent, I was right smack in the
>center of the prohibited band! I had set the RPM to 2300 for starters as I
>do for normal pattern work, but as I reduced MP to achieve 90K and 500 fpm
>descent, the prop could no longer servo and RPM decayed to within the
>prohibited band."
>
>I would suspect that another way to approach this problem is to set the rpm
>below the 2000 rpm "restriction" and run the manifold pressure up to the
>power setting you need. This may start a thread on running "over-squared"
>which would be fine (please rewrite the subject line).
>
>Is data available to extend your power chart into the teens?
>
>Ross
Ross,
The Lycoming power chart that my data came from only goes down to
2000 rpm. The spreadsheet could probably be modified to allow it to
extrapolate to lower rpm. I don't have the time to do that - I'll
leave it as an exercise for the reader :-)
I looked at the Type Certificate Data Sheet for the O-360 and
couldn't find any limits on operation at low rpm. I don't have the
Operator's Manual here to look at. The Power Chart shows a curve of
maximum allowable manifold pressure as a function of rpm. It goes
from 29 inches at 2400 rpm to 25 inches at 2000 rpm. So, it looks
like there may be no problem at the sort of manifold pressures you
would get on approach. But, you would want to be very sure to push
the prop forward before the power on a go-around, or you might get
detonation.
I'm not sure what range of control the prop governor would have.
I.e. can it be set to governor at rpms below 2000? I've never played
around in this range.
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kenneth beene <kbeene(at)citilink.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wing Rocking with Nav Aid Autopilot |
>
I have not experienced this with my Navaid.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <dane3(at)ATTGLOBAL.NET> |
Subject: | S-TEC 30 in a RV-8a |
I needs some help locating someone's web site that has pictures of a
installed SO-TEC servos in a RV-8a. I have seen them but can not find the
web sight that has the pictures of the elevator servo. I have search the
archives but have come up with nothing in regards to web sights. (I might
have seen an RAVE elevator install). Can anyone help with any pictures of
servo installs on RV's?
Dane Sheahen
RV-8a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wing Rocking with Nav Aid Autopilot |
I have the same problem in my 6A. I have just sent back the AP1 and servo
for their inspection. I now have it back and installed but have not had a
chance to test it yet. I sure hope it works because it's very annoying.
John Furey
RV6A O-360 65hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Greg,
As you know, the -9 has about 14 feet of flap verses about 9 feet (I think)
for the -6. Maybe Vans said no because they thought it would take too much
physical effort. Did Vans mention this?
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Fuselage
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
I want to run Manual flaps on my 9A but Vans says no---any other 9 builders
out there want manual? I'm going to check and see if the 6 set-up can be
retrofitted.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | ELT antenna location on RV-8 |
I am looking for a place to mount the ELT (ACK) antenna on my RV-8.
If I take the suggestions from ACK at face value, the best I can come up
with, is to place the antenna in front of the Vertical Stab (but far enough
back
so that the canopy doesn't contact it).
Previous suggestions on this board have ranged from putting some kind of
antenna in the wing, under the emmpenage fairing, on the right side of the
cockpit, to having it in front of the roll bar. Has anyone implemented these
suggestions ? How well do they work ?
Thanks much.
Tom Diede
N848TD, hooking up systems, etc...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | E-609 and 605; drawings vs. instructions |
Hello,
Figures this would happen when Van's is closed for the weekend.
The drawings show and say 3 flush rivets for the E-605 rib and say/show
nothing that I can find for the E-609 rib.
Orndorff video and Van's instructions say to use 2 rivets.
What's the answer?
TIA,
Lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Knight <knightair(at)lv.rmci.net> |
Subject: | Knight Upholstery for RV |
RV Builders:
I have moved to Las Vegas. Please note my new telephone number and e-mail
address.
I have been in the upholstery business for 28 years and have been making
upholstery products for kitplanes for 16 years. I have interior kits
available for RV-4, RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8. I also have cabin covers and
other items. I am the supplier of upholstery products for several kitplane
manufacturers. A list of other kitplane interior products available upon
request.
For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (702)
207-6681 or e-mail me at knightair(at)lv.rmci.net. If you e- mail for
information, please mention either "Knight" or "Upholstery" in your
reference line so I can give your request my immediate attention. Photos
available upon request.
Sincerely,
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
"Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
Sam Knight
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | S-Cowl Browning 6A |
I have the S-Cowl and Vetterman exhaust with increased clearance for the
S-Cowl on my 6A. My cowl interior is painted white Centauri to show up oil
leaks and generally make inspection easier. In the areas near the heat
muffs (one each side) I noted a browning of the interior paint. After about
40 hours the paint on the interior was flaking off and the brown area was
football-shaped and sized. When I sanded off the flaking paint, the
honeycomb cowl was a very dark brown beneath the paint and it was a bulk
rather than a surface defect. I thought the problem was the heat muffs'
proximity to the cowl and was going to solve the problem with exhaust wrap
on the heat muffs. I decided to call Larry and get his opinion.
Larry said:
1) DON'T use exhaust wrap on his exhaust system -- EVER
2) My problem was the not the heat muff, but rather the exhaust pipe,
radiating heat.
3) The solution was to RTV on a pair (one each side) of 0.020 aluminum pads
onto the cowl. Larry said to use high temp RTV and put a bead around the
perimeter and a few dabs on the inside to space it off the cowl. The idea
is to make a dead air space between aluminum and cowl like a Thermopane
window. Larry also advised me to use aluminum instead of stainless steel
because the aluminum has better thermal properties in this application.
My thanks to Larry for the advice. When I have the exterior painted, I can
now rest assured that I won't have any blistering over time.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 47 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Wing Rocking with Nav Aid Autopilot |
John,
Please post your results as soon as A/P is installed. I'd be interested in
knowing what they changed. When I talked to them I didn't get the feeling
that I was communicating the problem very well to them. I think I'll send
along a video showing the effect.
If the fix doesn't work I'll put in an S-Tec. I'd like altitude hold and
wing leveling all in one instrument and besides, the S-Tec does a fine job
of intercepting a course, while the NavAid must be aligned nearly exactly
with the proper heading before engaging track mode. But for the money, it's
a great autopilot -- if the wing rocking can be fixed.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 47 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: John Furey <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
Date: Saturday, February 24, 2001 10:21 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing Rocking with Nav Aid Autopilot
>
>I have the same problem in my 6A. I have just sent back the AP1 and servo
>for their inspection. I now have it back and installed but have not had a
>chance to test it yet. I sure hope it works because it's very annoying.
>
>John Furey
>RV6A O-360 65hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Subject: | Re: manual flaps |
After 32 years of flying I've had a lot of time with both and I prefer manual,
mainly because I can pull on a notch of flaps and know exactly where the flaps
are set without watching out the window or at an indicator while the flaps are
going down. This is a distraction that I don't need-especially on final.
I once flew a C-177 Cardinal that had a detent system on the flap switch. Just
push it to the notch you wanted then turn your attention back to flying the
airplane and the flaps would stop at the appropriate position. I could live with
that kind of electric flap system otherwise I'll take manual.
I don't have any problems with the flap handle in my 6.
Dave
skybolt-aviator wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cliff Begnaud" <Shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 7:50 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: manual flaps
>
>
> >
> >
> > YES, YES, YES !!!!
> >
> > > I want to run Manual flaps on my 9A but Vans says no---any other 9
> > builders
> > > out there want manual? I'm going to check and see if the 6 set-up can be
> > > retrofitted.
> > >
> > > Greg Tanner
> > > RV-9A Empennage
> > > SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
> My question is why would you want the manual flaps when the electric are so
> simple and work so well.??
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: manual flaps |
From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
From: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: manual flaps
To those that wonder why anyone would want manual flaps, ever flown a 172
with johnson bar flaps then flown one with electric? I'd take my manual
flaps any day over the electric. I can pull em on--any amount I want--and
dump em in a flash if I need to. Try that with electric.
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Greg (and others wondering),
Have you thought about why manual flaps are not being offered?
I have read a lot of talk about manual flaps in cessnas, pipers, RV-6 and
A's.
None of these airplanes are the same, and the RV-6(A) is not the same as
an RV-9A.
compare the flaps... RV-6's - about 4 ft long / RV-9A's - about 7
feet long.
RV-6's - plain flap / RV-9A's - slotted flap (more powerful
hence the larger tail)
The pull force on a manual flap bar in an RV-9A is likely to be quite a
bit higher than it is in an RV-6 (which as you have read, many people
already feel is too high). Unless you did some major redesign of the
mechanism you would likely be disappointed, but since we didn't actually
test it lets us know the results if you try it your self. Then we will
know for sure :-)
Scott McDaniels
Aurora, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
P.S. I had manual flaps on my 6A and I liked them but I will probably
use electric when I build again. I would not even consider manual if I
was building an RV-9A.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Power charts/curves |
Thanks, Kevin. It is amazing to me that the curves provided by Lycoming are
SOOO bad. But again, it was certified in 1955!!!!
Ross
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 4:58 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Power charts/curves
>
> >
> >Kevin Horton,
> >
> >I was fooling around with your speadsheet and noticed that they end at
2000
> >rpm. Is the O360 never flown at lower than 2000 rpm?
> >
> >When Dennis started this (now extended) thread, he said....
> >
> >"My problem was that at 90K and 500 fpm descent, I was right smack in the
> >center of the prohibited band! I had set the RPM to 2300 for starters as
I
> >do for normal pattern work, but as I reduced MP to achieve 90K and 500
fpm
> >descent, the prop could no longer servo and RPM decayed to within the
> >prohibited band."
> >
> >I would suspect that another way to approach this problem is to set the
rpm
> >below the 2000 rpm "restriction" and run the manifold pressure up to the
> >power setting you need. This may start a thread on running
"over-squared"
> >which would be fine (please rewrite the subject line).
> >
> >Is data available to extend your power chart into the teens?
> >
> >Ross
>
> Ross,
>
> The Lycoming power chart that my data came from only goes down to
> 2000 rpm. The spreadsheet could probably be modified to allow it to
> extrapolate to lower rpm. I don't have the time to do that - I'll
> leave it as an exercise for the reader :-)
>
> I looked at the Type Certificate Data Sheet for the O-360 and
> couldn't find any limits on operation at low rpm. I don't have the
> Operator's Manual here to look at. The Power Chart shows a curve of
> maximum allowable manifold pressure as a function of rpm. It goes
> from 29 inches at 2400 rpm to 25 inches at 2000 rpm. So, it looks
> like there may be no problem at the sort of manifold pressures you
> would get on approach. But, you would want to be very sure to push
> the prop forward before the power on a go-around, or you might get
> detonation.
>
> I'm not sure what range of control the prop governor would have.
> I.e. can it be set to governor at rpms below 2000? I've never played
> around in this range.
>
> Take care,
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
Subject: | ELT antenna location on RV-8 |
Tom,
I put mine on the right passenger armrest - this is a popular place, as I
have seen three or four others put it there. It just misses the canopy when
it closes, and you can secure it in place by putting a platenut and adele
clamp in the bulkhead.
Jerry Carter
8A, Finishing details
I am looking for a place to mount the ELT (ACK) antenna on my RV-8.
If I take the suggestions from ACK at face value, the best I can come up
with, is to place the antenna in front of the Vertical Stab (but far enough
back
so that the canopy doesn't contact it).
Previous suggestions on this board have ranged from putting some kind of
antenna in the wing, under the emmpenage fairing, on the right side of the
cockpit, to having it in front of the roll bar. Has anyone implemented these
suggestions ? How well do they work ?
Thanks much.
Tom Diede
N848TD, hooking up systems, etc...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Subject: | Re: manual flaps |
Electric flaps with the switch on the joystick seems like the way to
go.......Norman........
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
Subject: | ELT antenna location on RV-8 |
Disclaimer: I have not tested range of ELT antennas in RV-8's!
In Canada, Norway, Australia and most other countries there are laws and
regulations explaining how an ELT antenna should be installed. I can't find
any requirements for this in the FAR's but I still like to think that #1
priority is safety of you and your passengers - right?
After a recent bad experience giving advice on COMM antenna locations I'll
just post an extract from the CAA (New Zealand) regulations. I know most of
us aren't in New Zealand but for lack of finding US reg's I'm posting this
since I found it to agree with my own experience. If you use these reg's as
a guideline, you should have a safe installation. Other installations are
probably also good but I personally wouldn't favour cosmetics over safety.
In any event, I'm just providing info. - Tom should decide for himself.
Here goes: (please flame CAA and not me if you don't agree or experience in
your own flying aircraft that i.e. 'rubber duckies' inside empennage works
best - I'm only trying to help)
----------------------------------------------------
4.6. Install the ELT antenna as follows:
4.6.1. Determine a suitable location for the ELT antenna using the following
criteria:
4.6.1.1. The ELT antenna should be located on the upper fuselage and not
within the
manufacturers recommended distance from other antennas. In any case, the
ELT antenna is not to be located within 0.6m (24 inches) from other VHF
antennas.
4.6.1.2. The ELT antenna should be located so as to be vertically polarised.
4.6.1.3. The ELT antenna should be located as close as possible to the ELT
transmitter.
The antenna location should also ensure that the routing of the ELT
transmitter-to-
antenna coaxial cable does not cross any fuselage breaks.
4.6.1.4. If the ELT antenna is mounted internally in the aircraft, the
antenna is to be
exposed to an electronic window at least 0.3 m (1 foot) square and
insulated
from metal parts.
------------------------------------------------------
Mine will go on the upper fuselage just behind the canopy when fully open.
FWIW,
Are
RV-8 Fuel Tanks
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tdiede(at)AOL.COM
Sent: February 24, 2001 11:25 AM
Subject: RV-List: ELT antenna location on RV-8
I am looking for a place to mount the ELT (ACK) antenna on my RV-8.
If I take the suggestions from ACK at face value, the best I can come up
with, is to place the antenna in front of the Vertical Stab (but far enough
back
so that the canopy doesn't contact it).
Previous suggestions on this board have ranged from putting some kind of
antenna in the wing, under the emmpenage fairing, on the right side of the
cockpit, to having it in front of the roll bar. Has anyone implemented these
suggestions ? How well do they work ?
Thanks much.
Tom Diede
N848TD, hooking up systems, etc...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Subject: | Re: Power charts/curves |
Check out Lycoming's Publications guide on low power operation at:
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/publications/low_power_low_rpm_cruise.html
Dave
>
> The Lycoming power chart that my data came from only goes down to
> 2000 rpm. The spreadsheet could probably be modified to allow it to
> extrapolate to lower rpm. I don't have the time to do that - I'll
> leave it as an exercise for the reader :-)
>
> I looked at the Type Certificate Data Sheet for the O-360 and
> couldn't find any limits on operation at low rpm. I don't have the
> Operator's Manual here to look at. The Power Chart shows a curve of
> maximum allowable manifold pressure as a function of rpm. It goes
> from 29 inches at 2400 rpm to 25 inches at 2000 rpm. So, it looks
> like there may be no problem at the sort of manifold pressures you
> would get on approach. But, you would want to be very sure to push
> the prop forward before the power on a go-around, or you might get
> detonation.
>
> I'm not sure what range of control the prop governor would have.
> I.e. can it be set to governor at rpms below 2000? I've never played
> around in this range.
>
> Take care,
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: S-Cowl Browning 6A |
In a message dated 2/24/01 11:56:41 AM Eastern Standard Time,
dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
> 3) The solution was to RTV on a pair (one each side) of 0.020 aluminum pads
> onto the cowl. Larry said to use high temp RTV and put a bead around the
> perimeter and a few dabs on the inside to space it off the cowl. The idea
> is to make a dead air space between aluminum and cowl like a Thermopane
> window. Larry also advised me to use aluminum instead of stainless steel
> because the aluminum has better thermal properties in this application.
>
Dennis,
Can you give a little more detailed description of exactly where you were
seeing the discoloration? On the sides of the cowl? In the exit duct?
Where?
Just a thought: There are a couple of products in the ACS catalog which are
appropriate for this application: Fiberfrax and Koolmat. My understanding
is that many people have adhesion problems with Fibrefax and the recommended
glue. The Koolmat glues on with RTV and I've got a couple of linear feet of
the stuff just waiting to be installed...
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Subject: | Re: ELT antenna location on RV-8 |
Are,
Sounds like these rules would not preclude installing it inside the cockpit.
Dave
Are Barstad wrote:
> The antenna location should also ensure that the routing of the ELT
> transmitter-to-
> antenna coaxial cable does not cross any fuselage breaks.
> 4.6.1.4. If the ELT antenna is mounted internally in the aircraft, the
> antenna is to be
> exposed to an electronic window at least 0.3 m (1 foot) square and
> insulated
> from metal parts.
> ------------------------------------------------------
> Mine will go on the upper fuselage just behind the canopy when fully open.
> FWIW,
> Are
> RV-8 Fuel Tanks
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tdiede(at)AOL.COM
> Sent: February 24, 2001 11:25 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: ELT antenna location on RV-8
>
>
> I am looking for a place to mount the ELT (ACK) antenna on my RV-8.
>
> If I take the suggestions from ACK at face value, the best I can come up
> with, is to place the antenna in front of the Vertical Stab (but far enough
> back
> so that the canopy doesn't contact it).
>
> Previous suggestions on this board have ranged from putting some kind of
> antenna in the wing, under the emmpenage fairing, on the right side of the
> cockpit, to having it in front of the roll bar. Has anyone implemented these
> suggestions ? How well do they work ?
>
> Thanks much.
>
> Tom Diede
> N848TD, hooking up systems, etc...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
Subject: | ELT antenna location on RV-8 |
You're right. Looking at the limited space on the fuselage top of the RV-8
(with canopy open), the inside may be a good spot for me also. I will look
at RV-8 intallations at Oshkosh this year to see what is practical and
working for others. I would imagine that today's extensive monitoring of
121.5 from both commercial aircraft and even satelite, even faint signals
will be noticed and traceable.
Are
RV-8 Fuel Tanks
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Bristol
Sent: February 24, 2001 4:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT antenna location on RV-8
Are,
Sounds like these rules would not preclude installing it inside the cockpit.
Dave
Are Barstad wrote:
> The antenna location should also ensure that the routing of the ELT
> transmitter-to-
> antenna coaxial cable does not cross any fuselage breaks.
> 4.6.1.4. If the ELT antenna is mounted internally in the aircraft, the
> antenna is to be
> exposed to an electronic window at least 0.3 m (1 foot) square and
> insulated
> from metal parts.
> ------------------------------------------------------
> Mine will go on the upper fuselage just behind the canopy when fully open.
> FWIW,
> Are
> RV-8 Fuel Tanks
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tdiede(at)AOL.COM
> Sent: February 24, 2001 11:25 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: ELT antenna location on RV-8
>
>
> I am looking for a place to mount the ELT (ACK) antenna on my RV-8.
>
> If I take the suggestions from ACK at face value, the best I can come up
> with, is to place the antenna in front of the Vertical Stab (but far
enough
> back
> so that the canopy doesn't contact it).
>
> Previous suggestions on this board have ranged from putting some kind of
> antenna in the wing, under the emmpenage fairing, on the right side of the
> cockpit, to having it in front of the roll bar. Has anyone implemented
these
> suggestions ? How well do they work ?
>
> Thanks much.
>
> Tom Diede
> N848TD, hooking up systems, etc...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: S-TEC 30 in a RV-8a |
Try the following: http://www.geocities.com/ghale5224/autopilt.htm
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
----- Original Message -----
From: <dane3(at)ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 9:58 AM
Subject: RV-List: S-TEC 30 in a RV-8a
>
>
> I needs some help locating someone's web site that has pictures of a
> installed SO-TEC servos in a RV-8a. I have seen them but can not find the
> web sight that has the pictures of the elevator servo. I have search the
> archives but have come up with nothing in regards to web sights. (I might
> have seen an RAVE elevator install). Can anyone help with any pictures of
> servo installs on RV's?
>
> Dane Sheahen
> RV-8a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: S-Cowl Browning 6A |
The geometrical center of the elliptical brown spot is under the aft part of
the Wye junction and ball joint on the left hand side exhaust. The right
side is a bit forward of the left. The browning area extends from the
junction with the scoop to about 9 inches outward. I have an analog photo
of the aluminum plates -- maybe Mike Nellis will scan them in sometime.
I had considered Fiberfrax as well but was concerned about it absorbing oil.
I think Larry's solution is the best as he has probably tested this on a
plane and has a wealth of experience.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM <KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Saturday, February 24, 2001 4:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: S-Cowl Browning 6A
>
>In a message dated 2/24/01 11:56:41 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
>
>
>> 3) The solution was to RTV on a pair (one each side) of 0.020 aluminum
pads
>> onto the cowl. Larry said to use high temp RTV and put a bead around
the
>> perimeter and a few dabs on the inside to space it off the cowl. The
idea
>> is to make a dead air space between aluminum and cowl like a Thermopane
>> window. Larry also advised me to use aluminum instead of stainless steel
>> because the aluminum has better thermal properties in this application.
>>
>
>Dennis,
>
>Can you give a little more detailed description of exactly where you were
>seeing the discoloration? On the sides of the cowl? In the exit duct?
>Where?
>
>Just a thought: There are a couple of products in the ACS catalog which
are
>appropriate for this application: Fiberfrax and Koolmat. My understanding
>is that many people have adhesion problems with Fibrefax and the
recommended
>glue. The Koolmat glues on with RTV and I've got a couple of linear feet
of
>the stuff just waiting to be installed...
>
>Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
>RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Compressor Decision |
Ready to build an RV6A QB. Will oreder the standard tail next week to get
started fast.
I found a Cambell & H reconditioned compressor today at a great price $260.
120v 5hp 26 Gal tank Oiled 125 psi max 6.6 CFM @ 40 psi 5.8 @ 90 psi
Model VT631300AJ
Will this be adequate?? Quick advice appreciated.
John McDonnell (ready to take the plunge)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
Subject: | Re: Compressor Decision |
Yes, but...there is always a but...when you start to do finish fiberglass
work and are working with die grinders, paint sprayers, d/a sanders,
etc...it will not be near adequate. I ended up tossing my 5 HP compressor
and bought an 8 HP 60 Gallon 10.5 CFM, and it just keeps up with a die
grinder...It was only $400 at Home Depot..in my opinion, spend the extra
$140 now instead of later.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: <JTAnon(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 4:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: Compressor Decision
>
> Ready to build an RV6A QB. Will oreder the standard tail next week to get
> started fast.
>
> I found a Cambell & H reconditioned compressor today at a great price
$260.
>
> 120v 5hp 26 Gal tank Oiled 125 psi max 6.6 CFM @ 40 psi 5.8 @ 90
psi
> Model VT631300AJ
>
> Will this be adequate?? Quick advice appreciated.
>
> John McDonnell (ready to take the plunge)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Compressor Decision |
In a message dated 2/24/2001 6:25:14 PM Central Standard Time,
pbesing(at)rmi.net writes:
> Yes, but...there is always a but...when you start to do finish fiberglass
> work and are working with die grinders, paint sprayers, d/a sanders,
> etc...it will not be near adequate. I ended up tossing my 5 HP compressor
> and bought an 8 HP 60 Gallon 10.5 CFM, and it just keeps up with a die
> grinder...It was only $400 at Home Depot..in my opinion, spend the extra
> $140 now instead of later.
>
I have a 6 hp 30 gallon from sears and it keeps up just fine with a die
grinder. If I was going to paint i would spend the extra money
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Compressor Decision |
John, you are beginning a fascinating journey!
The 25 gal compressor will be fine for everyting except painting your
plane(priming is fine with the 25 gal unit); the tank is too small for
the ideal paint setup.
If you are not going to be doing the painting, then this is a moot
point.
Good luck with your project!
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
=============
JTAnon(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> Ready to build an RV6A QB. Will oreder the standard tail next week to get
> started fast.
>
> I found a Cambell & H reconditioned compressor today at a great price $260.
>
> 120v 5hp 26 Gal tank Oiled 125 psi max 6.6 CFM @ 40 psi 5.8 @ 90 psi
> Model VT631300AJ
>
> Will this be adequate?? Quick advice appreciated.
>
> John McDonnell (ready to take the plunge)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | LessDragProd(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | RV-3 Vert Stab COM Antenna |
Hi All,
Anyone interested in a Vertical Stabilizer COM Antenna for their RV-3?
The vertical stabilizer is the optimum position for a COM antenna.
And the VS fairing has about 1/4 the drag of a 1/8" dia. wire COM antenna.
I just took the Vertical Stabilizer COM Antenna off of my RV-3, so I could
get a mold made from it.
The molded fairings will be available from Less Drag Products, Inc.
(The price will be available, after the first fairings have been completed.)
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
(of course, the first fairing goes back on my RV-3.) :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
Subject: | Compressor Decision |
I have the exact same compressor and it works great. I seem to remember I
could drill all stiffeners on the rudder with the compressor starting only 2
or 3 times. I have never used my die-grinder except once since I have found
my Dremel tool to be easier to use and control. This compressor is powerful
enough to power all the tools you need in terms of CFM's.
I have a pneumatic squeezer and can use it for a very long time before the
compressor runs out of steam - same goes for the rivet gun. These tools
doesn't require much.
Good luck! You will have lot's of fun.
Are
RV-8 Fuel Tanks
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of JTAnon(at)AOL.COM
Sent: February 24, 2001 6:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: Compressor Decision
Ready to build an RV6A QB. Will oreder the standard tail next week to get
started fast.
I found a Cambell & H reconditioned compressor today at a great price $260.
120v 5hp 26 Gal tank Oiled 125 psi max 6.6 CFM @ 40 psi 5.8 @ 90 psi
Model VT631300AJ
Will this be adequate?? Quick advice appreciated.
John McDonnell (ready to take the plunge)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net> |
Dennis,
It sounds like you might have just a bit of excess friction in your
aileron controls, a small amount of breakout force. It could be caused
by a mis-alignment of a rod end bearing or possibly some side force on
one of the aileron bearings. why not go over this again with a critical
eye. My Navaid works beautifully, rock solid, once the resister was
installed to stop the shaking.
Regards, Bill RV-8 N48WD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Compressor Decision |
Yes, but...there is always a but...when you start to do finish fiberglass
work and are working with die grinders, paint sprayers, d/a sanders,
etc...it will not be near adequate. I ended up tossing my 5 HP compressor
and bought an 8 HP 60 Gallon 10.5 CFM, and it just keeps up with a die
grinder...It was only $400 at Home Depot..in my opinion, spend the extra
$140 now instead of later. <<
Paul Besing and others:
Actually, I believe that this is satified by the infamous question - - are
you building to build - or ar you building to fly. For the "builders" you
can justify the additional purchase - the spouse will even understand.
However, if you are a flyer (buy what gets you in the air) then a 5 gal OIL
type is totally sufficient. I use two Firestorm drills for almost
everything, except for priming and riveting. I know that at some time that
I will have to decide on how I apply the final coat of paint. I will
probably do everything except blasting the final coat by a professional
using an HVLP system. The timeframe will be very short, because I will do
all the prep work. The decision - Manana!!! Hey, but maybe you plan to
spray paint the truck, boat, cottage, cedar fence, another plane, sand blast
the fireplace, etc.
This smacks of "project creep". You know - Pneumatic squeezer, optical
levels, autopilot, fuel management, etc.,etc. It's really up to you to
decide on your toys. BTW: I am building to FLY.
Ernest Kells - Fuselage Ordered
RV-9A - Building Wings, Planning: O-235 Wood Prop
Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
Subject: | Re: 6 vs 6a (halfway humor-hit DELETE now) |
Good one.
Actually, you know, the greater skill required is exactly why many drivers
prefer the handling of cars such as the rear-engined Porsches. The jest
you make is not as much of a jest as it might appear!
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
Hey, Jim (the great poster) and Jerry - and others.
> I get a real kick out of the various ideas you guys come up with to
> control your flap positions. I used to own a AA-5A Cheetah. When I
> first got it, I was taught to count out the flap positions. I'd count to
> four and pretty much get ten degrees of flaps. I'd do this three times
> for each landing. I just passed that on to my RV-6A. Just figure out
> about how far to count for each ten degrees and forget all of those
> fancy gizmos that can fail and maybe bite you later. KISS is the
> better approach. If you figure it out, you don't even have to have
> indicators on the flaps that you can't see during night landings. Very
> simple, huh?
I really like this answer. I have built both of my MANUAL flaps for my
RV-9A. Yes, I understand that they are long. However, they are not
elevators (electric) or ailerons (manual). You just set them, reset them
after take off, and then repeat for landing. That's it ! ! You don't fiddle
with them because one of the tanks is getting sucked from. Jim's post was
absolutely right on. You develop a feel, you execute immediately, next
task. You don't have to count, you don't worry about runaway servos, no
added weight or cost. No LED display on the panel, no indicator on the
wing. Actually have a feel for what you are doing! BTW: my brother just
bought a loaded 4X4 with a lighted compass - - er -- if the setting sun is
in my eyes am I goining West on I-70 or perhaps East ? ?
Parden me for having some fun - back to DWG #12.
Ernest Kells Ordered Fuselage
RV-9A - Building Wings, Planning: O-235 Wood Prop
Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: ELT antenna location on RV-8 |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Tdiede(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 9:25 AM
Subject: RV-List: ELT antenna location on RV-8
>
> I am looking for a place to mount the ELT (ACK) antenna on my RV-8.
>
> If I take the suggestions from ACK at face value, the best I can come up
> with, is to place the antenna in front of the Vertical Stab (but far
enough
> back
> so that the canopy doesn't contact it).
>
> Previous suggestions on this board have ranged from putting some kind of
> antenna in the wing, under the emmpenage fairing, on the right side of the
> cockpit, to having it in front of the roll bar. Has anyone implemented
these
> suggestions ? How well do they work ?
>
> Thanks much.
>
> Tom Diede
> N848TD, hooking up systems, etc...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Eshleman <Ronald.J.Eshleman-1(at)tc.umn.edu> |
THIS IS A TEST
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: wing rocking |
I don't think that is the problem as I have taken great pains to ensure
silky-smooth controls. Applying a restraining force by hand on the stick
actually helps a bit.
I think this is a some do, some don't deal. It is something my wife and I
can live with on a long flight but it just isn't right.
I hope NavAid has a fix.
Note by the way that I never had the stick shaking problem -- always the
wing rocking problem.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: William Davis <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net>
Date: Saturday, February 24, 2001 7:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: wing rocking
>
>Dennis,
>
>It sounds like you might have just a bit of excess friction in your
>aileron controls, a small amount of breakout force. It could be caused
>by a mis-alignment of a rod end bearing or possibly some side force on
>one of the aileron bearings. why not go over this again with a critical
>eye. My Navaid works beautifully, rock solid, once the resister was
>installed to stop the shaking.
>
>Regards, Bill RV-8 N48WD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Compressor Decision |
Sorry I was incorrect in earlier info. I am using a 5 hp and 25 gal tank
110, works just fine.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Compressor Decision |
I have one of those loud oil less compressors... I had it in the garage for
a while, but couldn't stand it anymore, so I re-located it to the basement
and plumbed the air to the garage using 1/2" SCH 40 PVC. It's good to 600
PSI @ 73 deg F... Also, I tool and old extension cord, and used it to wire
the compressor to a switch I put on the wall of the garage. Makes turning
it off and on a breeze, but doesn't help me to remember to turn it of...
One thing you could to there is wire it to a timer instead of an on/off
switch so you don't need to remember to turn it off...
You can see a pic of my installation here, I will have more soon:
http://vondane.com/rv8a/horizontal/air.jpg
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 8.43 PM
Subject: Re: Fw: RV-List: Compressor Decision
Sorry I was incorrect in earlier info. I am using a 5 hp and 25 gal tank
110, works just fine.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Compressor Decision |
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Compressor Decision |
In a message dated 2/24/01 8:32:36 PM, n8vd(at)earthlink.net writes:
>I have one of those loud oil less compressors... I had it in the garage
>for
>a while, but couldn't stand it anymore, so I re-located it to the basement
>and plumbed the air to the garage using 1/2" SCH 40 PVC. It's good to
>600
>PSI @ 73 deg F... Also, I tool and old extension cord, and used it to
>wire
>the compressor to a switch I put on the wall of the garage. Makes turning
>it off and on a breeze, but doesn't help me to remember to turn it of...
>One thing you could to there is wire it to a timer instead of an on/off
>switch so you don't need to remember to turn it off...
>
Bill, mine has an auto "remind me to turn it off" function, it comes on by
itself when it looses pressure at about 3 AM. (I put mine in the laundry
room) Oh BOY those things are noisy.
Kevin in WA -9A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | More N83JD Testing |
Just finished the third flight. Some impressions. This plane has the
parallel valve 360. Also Aluminum gear. We still left the battery in
back. I know that there has been some discusion about the CG of the 8.
I have flown the 8 with the 200hp and thought the cg was way to far
foward. this plane is great. 3.5 gs is a little heavy for an acro plane
but much better than the 200 plane. Was a little concerned about loosing
back seat utility. 260lbs pilot, 220 lb. ballast in back seat was great.
The stick forces were light with out being twitchy. Ive flown rvs at aft
cg and didnt like it .This was nowhere close. There was a very nice
balance between ailerons and elevator. The aluminum gear has surprised
me. It is very nice feeling gear. I dont know about the life expectancy
but it feels at least as good as the steel gear. I still cant help but
worry about the first time somone someone drops it in and bends it.We
are using the big Positech oil cooler on the back of the baffle . oil is
only going to 160. will have to cover some up. Will report more after
next flight. have the normal new plane bugs to take care of. Terry B.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM |
I received this today, thought it was appropriate:
19 February 2001
On 18 February 2001, while racing for fame and fortune, Dale Earnhardt died
in the last lap of the Daytona 500.=A0 It was surely a tragedy for his
family,
friends and fans.=A0 He was 49 years old with grown children, one, which was
in the race.=A0 I am new to the NASCAR culture so much of what I know has
come
from the newspaper and TV.=A0 He was a winner and earned everything he had.
This included more than "$41 million in winnings and ten times that from
endorsements and souvenir sales".=A0 He had a beautiful home and a private
jet.=A0 He drove the most sophisticated cars allowed and every part was
inspected and replaced as soon as there was any evidence of wear.=A0 This is
normally fully funded by the car and team sponsors.=A0 Today, there is no TV
station that does not constantly remind us of his tragic end and the radio
already has a song of tribute to this winning driver.=A0 Nothing should be
taken away from this man, he was a professional and the best in his
profession.=A0 He was in a very dangerous business but the rewards were
great.
Two weeks ago seven U.S. Army soldiers died in a training accident when two
UH-60 Blackhawk helicopters collided during night maneuvers in Hawaii.=A0 The
soldiers were all in their twenties, pilots, crewchiefs and infantrymen.
Most of them lived in sub-standard housing.=A0 If you add their actual duty
hours (in the field, deployed) they probably earn something close to
minimum
wage.=A0 The aircraft they were in were between 15 and 20 years old.
Many times parts were not available to keep them in good shape due to
funding.=A0 They were involved in the extremely dangerous business of flying
in the Kuhuku mountains at night.=A0 It only gets worse when the weather
moves
in as it did that night.=A0 Most times no one is there with a yellow or red
flag to slow things down when it gets critical. Their children where mostly
toddlers who will lose all memory of who "Daddy" was as they grow up.=A0 They
died training to defend our freedom.
I take nothing away from Dale Earnhardt but ask you to perform this simple
test.=A0 Ask any of your friends if they know who was the NASCAR driver
killed
on 18 February 2001.=A0 Then ask them if they can name one of the seven
soldiers who died in Hawaii two weeks ago.
18 February 2001, Dale Earnhardt died driving for fame and glory at the
Daytona 500.=A0 The nation mourns.=A0 Seven soldiers died training to protect
our freedom.=A0 No one can remember their names.
James V.=A0 Torney
CW4, US Army, Retired
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Moshe Lichtman" <moshe_lichtman(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: wing rocking |
the way you describe the problem, it sounds like the gyro is not sensitive
enough, misses slight wing-drop and "wakes up" only after the aircraft has
deviated from course. i have ordered a navaid too (7 months backlog i was
told). this discussion is very very useful
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 7:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: wing rocking
>
> I don't think that is the problem as I have taken great pains to ensure
> silky-smooth controls. Applying a restraining force by hand on the stick
> actually helps a bit.
> I think this is a some do, some don't deal. It is something my wife and I
> can live with on a long flight but it just isn't right.
> I hope NavAid has a fix.
> Note by the way that I never had the stick shaking problem -- always the
> wing rocking problem.
> Dennis
> -----Original Message-----
> From: William Davis <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, February 24, 2001 7:50 PM
> Subject: RV-List: wing rocking
>
>
> >
> >Dennis,
> >
> >It sounds like you might have just a bit of excess friction in your
> >aileron controls, a small amount of breakout force. It could be caused
> >by a mis-alignment of a rod end bearing or possibly some side force on
> >one of the aileron bearings. why not go over this again with a critical
> >eye. My Navaid works beautifully, rock solid, once the resister was
> >installed to stop the shaking.
> >
> >Regards, Bill RV-8 N48WD
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob <rv3(at)swbell.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV3-List: RV-3 Vert Stab COM Antenna |
I'm interested in how well it can perform ELECTRICALLY, being located in the
field of so much metal to detune and distort the radiation pattern.
Bob Urban
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
LessDragProd(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> --> RV3-List message posted by: LessDragProd(at)aol.com
>
> Hi All,
>
> Anyone interested in a Vertical Stabilizer COM Antenna for their RV-3?
> The vertical stabilizer is the optimum position for a COM antenna.
> And the VS fairing has about 1/4 the drag of a 1/8" dia. wire COM antenna.
>
> I just took the Vertical Stabilizer COM Antenna off of my RV-3, so I could
> get a mold made from it.
>
> The molded fairings will be available from Less Drag Products, Inc.
> (The price will be available, after the first fairings have been completed.)
>
> Jim Ayers
> RV-3 N47RV
> (of course, the first fairing goes back on my RV-3.) :-)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM |
You're right--------------but its the same world that pays a drug addicted
jerk millions a year to play ball and at the same time the doctor that can
save your life only makes in the thousands. go figure!!! but this is
also not the place for this, lets get back to building or this pile of
aluminum in my hanger will remain a flower planter. hahaha
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
Subject: | ELT antenna location on RV-6 |
Norman Hunger and other Canadian RV builders, here are the Canadian
regulations (copied and pasted from the CAR's):
(c) Installation
(1) Where an aircraft of 5700 kg (12,500 pounds) maximum take-off weight or
less is to carry passengers on a flight for which an ELT is required, a
readily visible placard or equivalent means shall be installed in each
passenger cabin to inform passengers of the location and operation of the
ELT.
(2) Types F, AF, AP
Except where otherwise stated, the following requirements apply to type F,
AF, AP ELT installations in aeroplanes and helicopters:
(i) When installed in an aeroplane the ELT shall be mounted with its
sensitive axis pointing in the direction of flight.
(ii) When installed in a helicopter the ELT shall be mounted with its
sensitive axis pointing approximately 45 degrees downward from the normal
forward direction of flight.
(iii) The ELT shall be installed to withstand ultimate inertia forces of 10g
upward, 22.5g downward, 45g forward and 7.5g sideward.
(iv) The location chosen for the ELT must be sufficiently free from
vibration to prevent involuntary activation of the transmitter.
(v) ELTs shall be located and mounted so as to minimise the probability of
damage to the transmitter and antenna by fire or crushing as a result of
crash impact.
(vi) The ELT shall be accessible for manual activation and deactivation.
If it is equipped with an antenna for portable operation, the ELT shall be
easily detachable from inside the aircraft.
(vii) The external surface of the aircraft shall be marked to indicate the
location of the ELT.
(viii) The ELT shall not use the antenna of another avionics system.
(ix) The external antenna location shall be chosen considering the following
factors:
(A) The ELT antenna shall be mounted as far away as possible from other Very
High Frequency (VHF) antennas.
(B) The distance between the transmitter and antenna shall be in accordance
with the ELT manufacturers installation instructions or other approved
data.
(C) The position of the antenna shall be such as to ensure essentially
omni-directional radiation characteristics when the aircraft is in its
normal ground or water attitude.
(D) The antenna shall be mounted as far aft as possible.
(x) The ELT antenna shall not foul other antennas in flight.
(xi) The ELT shall be subjected to an operational test as specified in
Appendix G, Chapter 571 of this manual.
Here's the direct link:
http://www.tc.gc.ca/aviation/regserv/carac/cars/cars/551se.htm#551_104
Are
RV-8 Fuel Tanks
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Norman Hunger
Sent: February 24, 2001 11:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT antenna location on RV-6
I want to put mine unside under the rear window of the RV6 tip up canopy but
I fear that it is illegal in Canada. Does anyone know better? My ELT is
mounted on the luggage compartment floor where it is very easy to get at. It
is removable and then has another antenna that mounts on it for handheld
operation. I can even talk one way. This seems like the way to go but what
do I know?
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV3-List: RV-3 Vert Stab COM Antenna |
Bob,
Does "Less Drag Inc." sell fairings? What's their email or phone # ?
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
Subject: | Re: S-Cowl Browning 6A |
I used the Fiberfrax and white high temp glue from AC$ and it has worked
fine so far. The Fiberfrax is scourched brown but my cowl is untouched.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (120 hours)
> Just a thought: There are a couple of products in the ACS catalog which
are
> appropriate for this application: Fiberfrax and Koolmat. My
understanding
> is that many people have adhesion problems with Fibrefax and the
recommended
> glue. The Koolmat glues on with RTV and I've got a couple of linear feet
of
> the stuff just waiting to be installed...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Wing Rocking with Nav Aid Autopilot |
On 23 Feb 2001, at 19:17, Dennis Persyk wrote:
> For the past 45 flying hours I have observed an annoying tendency with
> my NavAid Devices autopilot in my 6A. In track, wing lever and
> commanded turn modes, the wings rock. The rocking period is about 2
> seconds. The roll amplitude is only a degree or so, very tiny, but
> the abrupt recovery and consequent overshoot is annoying. The rocking
> is asymmetrical, in that it slowly rolls off-level and then, BANG,
> returns to level. Then it does the same thing, rolling slightly to the
> other side and abruptly recovering. When I turn off the A/P, the plane
> flys hands-off straight and level with no control input for up to a
> minute in calm air with no wing rocking. It is an autopilot problem.
I've noticed similar behavior with my Navaid. I only notice it in dead
solid air, and it's not perceptible unless I'm really looking for it.
Mostly, I can feel it in the stick, but there is a barely perceptible
rocking of the wings. I don't consider the "hunting" that my Navaid
does to be a significant problem.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-3 Vert Stab COM Antenna |
Jim,
Does "Less Drag Inc." sell fairings? What's their email or phone #?
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | Re: Compressor Decision |
Don't forget to drain it every night. You don't want that water that's
condensed inside to work on corroding the tank in the high pressure, high
oxygen environment.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: <Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 9:38 PM
Subject: Re: RE: Fw: RV-List: Compressor Decision
>
>
> In a message dated 2/24/01 8:32:36 PM, n8vd(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
> >I have one of those loud oil less compressors... I had it in the garage
> >for
> >a while, but couldn't stand it anymore, so I re-located it to the
basement
> >and plumbed the air to the garage using 1/2" SCH 40 PVC. It's good to
> >600
> >PSI @ 73 deg F... Also, I tool and old extension cord, and used it to
> >wire
> >the compressor to a switch I put on the wall of the garage. Makes
turning
> >it off and on a breeze, but doesn't help me to remember to turn it of...
> >One thing you could to there is wire it to a timer instead of an on/off
> >switch so you don't need to remember to turn it off...
> >
>
> Bill, mine has an auto "remind me to turn it off" function, it comes on by
> itself when it looses pressure at about 3 AM. (I put mine in the laundry
> room) Oh BOY those things are noisy.
> Kevin in WA -9A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Compressor Decision |
John wrote:
>I found a Cambell & H reconditioned compressor today at a great price
$260.
My RV6a flies just fine and I can't remember ***EVER*** having to wait on
the compressor - a C-H 5hp 25 gal from monkey wards. I'm told it is too
small for painting but I did some calculations (i r n injunir!) and they
tell me it will do that job too.
I couldn't run the C-H in my hangar in Stockton as the volts just weren't
adequate so I used a 2hp jobby loaned me. It is most adequate given you
take adequate coffee breaks. I did some riveting using only an air tank
(bubble) and did several dozen 3/32nds as I recall.
Painting is the only real issue for the compressor. Then, where is it
written that you must paint continuously the whole plane? Painting **CAN**
be done in pieces. Paint the wings separately with the wing root fairings
dividing. Each side of the fuselage separately, likewise the cowl, and
even the emp.
Bigger is better but smaller is quite adequate.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Slick mag hold-down clamps needed |
Listers,
I'm presently installing a Lightspeed ignition on my O-360. To mount the
triggering sensor module, the clamps normally used to hold a Slick magneto
in position are to be used. One small problem here: I'm removing a BENDIX
mag and not a Slick! So, I need two of those little clamp doo dads to mount
my sensor module. Anyone out there have some of these laying around in a
parts bin somewhere? Wanna sell them?
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | O-320 Engine for sale advert |
Listers,
I saw this ad on wingsonline.com today. Sounds like a good deal on an
O-320A1A.....
2/13/101 - Tire Kickers, Please Ignore This Ad! For Sale: 173 hours since
major overhaul on this narrow deck, conical mount engine. Overhauled 12/1/98
and removed in late 2000 for upgrade. Recent compression check: 80/78,
80/77, 80/78 & 80/76 on chrome cylinders. Price is $8500.00 outright for
complete engine and accessories. The price is firm, so, serious inquiries
only will be appreciated. p16pen(at)gte.net
I also saw several other engines, mostly O-320's in various configurations
for sale.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Compressor Decision |
You should consider fixing the air leaks. Compressed air is about the most expensive
power source
there is and although in the overall scheme of things we don't spend much on compressing
air why
waste money on leaks? A properly set up system without leaks could be left on all
the time and would
only run when air was being consumed.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Compressor Decision |
An automatic drain works great for this and removes all danger of "I forgot". Also
regular draining
especially in times of high humidity does wonders for keeping your tools in top
shape. When it comes
to painting you definitely don't want ANY water in the system and a dryer as well
as frequent
draining is a must.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | LessDragProd(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re(2): RV-3 Vert Stab COM Antenna |
In a message dated 02/24/2001 9:54:58 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rv3(at)swbell.net writes:
> I'm interested in how well it can perform ELECTRICALLY, being located in the
> field of so much metal to detune and distort the radiation pattern.
>
>
> Bob Urban
>
According to Bob Archer, from the radiation patterns he has measured, the
vertical stabilizer is the optimum position for a COM antenna. I made the
fairing to enclose Bob Archer's Sportcraft antenna COM model 2.
I had also just installed a COM antenna to the top rib of the vertical stab.
However, calculations showed that it had 4 times more drag than the fairing.
(But this deluxe model COM antenna only cost me $3 to make.)
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Parking brake valve |
<http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
Subject: | Re(2): RV-3 Vert Stab COM Antenna |
Just thinking aloud here but what about the possibility of putting the com
antenna in one of the main gear fairings?
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
LessDragProd(at)AOL.COM
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2001 9:35 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re(2): RV-3 Vert Stab COM Antenna
In a message dated 02/24/2001 9:54:58 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rv3(at)swbell.net writes:
> I'm interested in how well it can perform ELECTRICALLY, being located in
the
> field of so much metal to detune and distort the radiation pattern.
>
>
> Bob Urban
>
According to Bob Archer, from the radiation patterns he has measured, the
February 20, 2001 - February 25, 2001
RV-Archive.digest.vol-kg