RV-Archive.digest.vol-kg

February 20, 2001 - February 25, 2001



      > stiffner but dont believe this is required. With my
      > 200lbs pushing down on the floor exiting the cockpit I
      > think These attach points help. BTW thanks for the
      > picture on the lowered fuel valve, just completed mine
      > and works fine.
      >
      >
      > RV6A 135hrs still smiling
      > --- BERNIE KERR  wrote:
      > > 
      > >
      > >  Joe,
      > >
      > > this is the same question you ask me when I sent you
      > > the picture of my
      > > lowered fuel valve. Is there a message associated
      > > with this question? My
      > > stiffeners are not fastened to the spar. I spoke to
      > > Ken Green about this and
      > > he did not think it necessary.
      > >
      > > Bernie, 6A, no gear vibrations yet at 85 hours , SE
      > > Fla
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 20, 2001
Subject: Re: Beveling skins-pre punched 6
In a message dated 2/18/01 8:39:58 PM Pacific Standard Time, ENewton57(at)AOL.COM writes: << I beveled them by filing the skin thinner. I placed the skin on my workbench so the corner to be filed was in the corner of my workbench. Then using a file, I filed the skin in that corner only, down to where it was about as thin as the aileron skin. Then when the two are overlapped together, they lay flat and level with the tank skins. >> I would just add for additional clarification (I hope), that you bevel the bottom corner of the top skin and the top corner of the bottom skin. Top or bottom depends on whether you lap the outboard over the inboard or vice versa, it's optional. Now if you aren't thoroughly confused you should be. Do not archive Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, finish kit stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com>
Subject: IK Technologies Engine Monitor
Date: Feb 20, 2001
I stopped by a booth at OSH last summer and spent a fair amount of time talking with the developer and chief bottle washer of the IK Technologies Engine Monitor. It's an interesting looking product, you either like it or hate it, but it is another option. During my conversation with the developer/owner he asked me for my honest opinion of the product. At that time, I told him I thought it needed some work as it looked like an "Alpha" or "Beta" version of the product. The LED's didn't look bright enough and the display panel didn't look quite right. At the time I was thinking it looked like something that you might find on a computer flight simulator. Feature and functions wise, it looked like a good product though. It was complete and overly expensive. The other day I received an email from the company that went to all those that signed up to receive future information. I don't think the company has a web site and I haven't seen any ads for the product in the aviation rags or elsewhere. I thought I would publish everything I got from them on my web site so others could have a look and get the contact information if they wanted. Follow the links to check out some cockpit photos and propaganda. I'm not associated with the company at all and I'll only leave it on the web site for a week or so. I just thought other might be interested in seeing alternative products that are on the market. I don't know anything more about the product other than what on the web page. I'd like to see the product do well because we can't have to many choices out there. Mike Nellis Stinson 108-2 N9666K RV-6 N699BM (res) Gooping up the tanks Plainfield, IL (LOT) http://bmnellis.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "BERNIE KERR" <KERRJB(at)email.msn.com>
\"laura crook\"" , "ROB IRVIN" , "SHERRILL GLENN LANEY"
Subject: Re: IK Technologies Engine Monitor (EIS input)
Date: Feb 20, 2001
I continue to find neat things that my EIS does. I just installed Van's new fuel gages that work with the original senders and decided to see how good they were at "zero" fuel pick up. Drained my left tank on the ground and added 1 gallon of fuel. Climbed to 8500 feet over KOBE on the right tank, switched to left which was indicating a little over 1 gal on the gage. The gage dropped down to the peg in short order and then the engine ran for another few minutes before the EIS red light starting blinking. I switched tanks and engine sputtered just slightly a few seconds later. NEAT to have two independent systems saying hey, you are running a fuel tank dry. I was able to put 18.9 gallons into the left tank, which is real close to 19 gallons useable out of a 6 tank. Bernie Kerr, 6A , SE Fla ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 1:57 AM Subject: RV-List: IK Technologies Engine Monitor > > I stopped by a booth at OSH last summer and spent a fair amount of time > talking with the developer and chief bottle washer of the IK > Technologies Engine Monitor. It's an interesting looking product, you > either like it or hate it, but it is another option. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "BERNIE KERR" <KERRJB(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Prop Decision O-320
Date: Feb 20, 2001
If you are in the process of determining which prop you are going to purchase for your O-320 and are concerned about the 2600 RPM Sensenich metal prop limit. There is a strong possibility that the limit will be increased after they complete a retest they are currently scheduling the end of March. Bernie Kerr, 6A flying with Sensenich prop, SE Fla ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: zen and the art of landing
Date: Feb 20, 2001
Thread-Topic: zen and the art of landing Thread-Index: AcCbNJjeFQvFMFhpRFSouS3QmqiKNA=
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
hey, I say why not start another super-long thread, maybe I'll throw in some talk on primer just to watch some people get going at it. After spending some considerable time in the state of suspended animation between bounces, I think I've finally figured out how to land smoothly. At least 85% of the time, when no one else is watching and my wife's not riding with me. I come in full flaps, 70 mph on short final, with enough power on short final to maintain a 300-400 fpm descent. The descent rate will make/break your landing. Wanna bounce? All you have to do is pull power on short final. With some power in a stabilized approach, the airplane comes in at a much flatter angle of attack, so you don't have to work as much to stop a rapid descent. When I'm about a foot above the runway, I GENTLY start a flare while at the same time slowly reducing power to idle. This will result in a tail-low 'modified' wheel landing, which seems to be the ideal technique to land a RV. Once the mains kiss the runway, I hold the attitude I'm in for a few seconds then push forward on the stick GENTLY while GENTLY and progressively applying brakes. Now that I'm pushing harder on the brakes I let the tail down GENTLY to grease the tailwheel on. Sounds simple, huh? If you do it the same way every time and do things smoothly, you won't be the guy walking into the FBO trying to explain yourself to a bunch of old farts judging your landings. At least that was my motivation for getting the landings to be manageable. Bob Japundza RV-6 O-360C/S flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: First Flight
Date: Feb 20, 2001
Tony, CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!!!! Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A (Finishing cowl & fairings) Niantic, CT (Westerly airport) >From: Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: First Flight >Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 22:00:02 -0500 > > >Today I made the first flight of my RV-6 from DXR. It was perfectly >trimmed and flew >hands and feet off. >Engine is a O360-A!A with Airflow Performance fuel injection and >Electroair (Jeff Rose) >electronic ignition. Prop is a new Hartzell constant speed. >Thank you Van for designing a wonderful airplane. >Tony Castellano >tcastella(at)juno.com >Hopewell Junction, NY >RV-6 N401TC > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: rpflanze(at)iquest.net
Date: Feb 20, 2001
Subject: Re: Balanced wheel pants benefits and How to land this thing!
Hey Rick, My experience has been just the opposite. I can grease a wheel landing nearly every time, but I can't three point the thing for nothing! The thing that I've found that works is to make a normal descent towards your touchdown point at about 70 kts with 20 degrees of flaps. Then kind of dive towards the end of the runway. Mike Seager told me to fly it down to the runway, not flair it all the way down like a Cessna. The key is to level out just above the ground. When the wheels touch, immediately release back pressure and she'll usually stay put. I know that this is a little fast, but when I come in slower, the nose is pretty high and the sink rate becomes too much. Recently, I've been working on my three-point landings and I think I've finally found a technique that works for me. To be sure, the three-pointers use a lot less runway. My last three landings have been pretty good. I just have to get used to hauling back on the stick that far. Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (120 hours) >Now for a question I have been struggling with. >How do you wheel land a RV-6 taildragger ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 2001
From: Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Help! RV-4 Fuse Bulkhead Line Up Problem
N8292W(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > OK, I have a problem and can't figure it out. I was wondering if anyone else > had this problem. > > On my RV-4 Fuse, the .125 AL angle on F413 does not line up with the .063 > angle on F404. These AL angle should meet approx. 90 degrees and have one > rivet attaching them. They are about 1/4 off or so and thus I cannot get a > rivet between them. I have the F413 aligned with the bottom of the firewall > and the bottom of F404, but the top side appears to be 1/4 too tall thus not > permitting the AL angles to line up. > > I am having the same problem on the back side, the AL angle on the F415 does > not line up well with the .063 angle on the back of F404. Again the F415 is > lined up on the bottom of F404 and F407, but it too appears too tall as the > AL angle on F415 is higher than the attaching angle on the back of F404. > > I assume that is a very important rivet as it ties the heavy AL angle from > the firewall to the wingspar and then back to F407. Is it safe to just rivet > the rest of the rib bulkheads but not the AL angles together? Any > help/advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks > -Mike > was doing good on the fuse, now frustrated.... > Mike, I had the same problem with my -4. I think you need to get in touch with Van's. In this particular area I had 3 or 4 problems. I tried to get it changed on the prints but is seem to no avail. This was at least 4 years ago. There is a solution because my -4 is flying, but I can't seem to remember just what I did to fix it. Sorry I can't be of more help. E-mail me direct and give a little more detail. I am really kinda confused about the entire problem. Carroll Bird RV-4 150 hours and counting. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Tank screws - lose fit
Date: Feb 20, 2001
-----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Are Barstad Sent: Monday, February 19, 2001 9:27 PM Subject: RV-List: Tank screws - lose fit Hi Are, I'm not at the tank stage, but have installed the plate-nuts. When trial fitting for the skin dimple I tried a few screws. Mine too seem "easy". I wonder if it is because they are larger than any we used yet on the tail. Larger screw driver, leverage etc. Jack DSM RV8, wings I'm trial-fitting the fuel tank and was surprised to find that the tank screws that fastens the tank to the main spar are not difficult to fasten - in fact, they almost seem too easy. This is the first time since I started the RV-8 that I've encountered 'easy' plate-nuts. They are not lose, but I bet my 7 year old son could fasten them. I used AN509-8R8 screws and K1100-08 plate-nuts. Anyone else? Are RV-8 Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 2001
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: intimidator for sale
Listers I hate to capitalize on Dale Earnhardts passing but I have a snap on intimidator tool box for sale asking $7000.00 or trade for a timed out 0-360 or 0-320 (not the H2AD) call or e-mail me at 214-435-9149 (cell) or e-mail at willig10(at)yahoo.com thanks Glenn Williams ==== Glenn Williams 8A A&P N81GW Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 20, 2001
Subject: Re: full swivel tail wheel question
The Vans unit is a great light weight product! 273SB RV 4 Colo. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 2001
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: zen and the art of landing
Bob, I like your observation about "spending some considerable time in the state of suspended animation between bounces"! I suspect only the liars among RV-6 pilots will deny ever having spent much time in that particular time/space warp. :-D I know how to land my RV-6 smoothly; all the techniques are burned into my brain and all the synapses snap at the proper time every landing. Give me calm air and I can demonstrate an enviable grasp on the zen of great landings in an RV-6, two-wheel, three-point, or single wheel (take your pick of which wheel). However............throw some wind into the equation and all bets are off. The trick to landing a conventional-geared RV is to hit the exact airspeed that yields the proper combination of sink rate and angle of attack so the plane neither plops down or returns to the air as the tires kiss (slap?) the runway. In calm air this is not a major impediment in the development of the compleat RV pilot. But when the wind starts blowing, as it almost always does, the one airspeed that produces perfect landings becomes a moving target. If someone can enlighten us on how to smoothly land a conventional gear RV in gusty wind (and no snide remarks about simply adding a wheel to the nose of the plane, please.....), I will be anxious to listen. Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with more landings than actually logged) "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal =================== Bob Japundza wrote: > > > hey, I say why not start another super-long thread, maybe I'll throw in > some talk on primer just to watch some people get going at it. > > After spending some considerable time in the state of suspended > animation between bounces, I think I've finally figured out how to land > smoothly. At least 85% of the time, when no one else is watching and my > wife's not riding with me. > > I come in full flaps, 70 mph on short final, with enough power on short > final to maintain a 300-400 fpm descent. The descent rate will > make/break your landing. Wanna bounce? All you have to do is pull > power on short final. With some power in a stabilized approach, the > airplane comes in at a much flatter angle of attack, so you don't have > to work as much to stop a rapid descent. When I'm about a foot above > the runway, I GENTLY start a flare while at the same time slowly > reducing power to idle. This will result in a tail-low 'modified' wheel > landing, which seems to be the ideal technique to land a RV. Once the > mains kiss the runway, I hold the attitude I'm in for a few seconds then > push forward on the stick GENTLY while GENTLY and progressively applying > brakes. Now that I'm pushing harder on the brakes I let the tail down > GENTLY to grease the tailwheel on. Sounds simple, huh? If you do it > the same way every time and do things smoothly, you won't be the guy > walking into the FBO trying to explain yourself to a bunch of old farts > judging your landings. At least that was my motivation for getting the > landings to be manageable. > > Bob Japundza > RV-6 O-360C/S flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Tow Bar
Date: Feb 20, 2001
Listers: Has anyone out there in the e-world found a tow bar that works well for a RV-6A? If so, where did you get it? Steve ________________________________________________________________________________
From: rpflanze(at)iquest.net
Date: Feb 20, 2001
Subject: LASAR Ignition Problem (Long post)
About a month ago, there was a thread about the pros and cons of the various electronic ignition vendors. Someone posted a comment that perhaps service was an important factor to consider. Little did I know how prophetic that statement would turn out to be for me. Two weeks ago, I was returning on a flight when the manual magneto mode light on my LASAR electronic ignition module turned on. The engine also began to run a little rough. Upon landing, a visual inspection did not turn up anything. Two days later when I tried to start the airplane, the ignition was dead. The engine turned over just fine, but there wasnt any spark. After a careful inspection of the fuse, ignition switch, wiring, etc. I concluded that the problem was either with the module or the mags. Since the problem now exceeded my knowledge to correct, a telephone call was in order. I made a telephone call to John Neumman at Unison and discussed the problem with him. He promptly overnighted a LASAR timing light to me to check the mags and I found that the contact points in the left mag where always open. When I called John back, he said that they have occasionally had a problem where grease from the cam gets fouled in the points. He again promply overnighted a new mag to me with a return FedEx voucher to return ship the bad mag back. I installed the new mag and the engine started right up, but the manual mag mode light remained on. Darn (more profuse language was used!). Called John again and described the problem. This one was stumping them. In our discussion, he asked if there was some way for me to get the airplane to Rockford. I said sure, how about in two hours!! Flew up to Rockford where John met me at the airport with his trusty PC. After a few minutes, he had diagnosed the problem as an electrical output problem in the new left mag. This time, he had a new mag tested and brought out to the airport. For my trouble, he also gave me a new wiring harness in blue to match my airplane, eight new spark plugs, gas for my trip, and an offer to buy me lunch. Now Im not thrilled with the problems Ive had, but I could not ask for more in terms of the service Ive received. John always returned my telephone calls very promptly, was very helpful, and made sure that I didnt have to pay for anything. He said that Unison had a few hardware problems early on with the LASAR system, but said that things have quieted down a lot in the last year and they are beginning to see the type of reliability they expected. If you are considering electronic ignition for your bird, the folks at Unison have been fantastic to deal with and they understand experimentals. They are willing to work closely with us even though our names are not Piper or Cessna. I dont want to dredge up all the pros and cons of the LASAR system. You can pull up the 3,000 comments from the archives if you have a few days to kill. But Im impressed with Unisons approach to customer service. You can do much worse out there. Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (120 hours) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DThomas773(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 20, 2001
Subject: Re: Tank screws - lose fit
Interesting question and I have had a similiar experiance. I just checked the fit of a some screws and nutplates in preparation for attaching the glass tips to my stabilizers. Thay seemed very loose and I was doubting that I was pairing up the proper pieces of hardware. I'm hoping those with some experiance can pass on some info. Dennis Thomas RV-9 Emp ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Tank screws - lose fit
Date: Feb 20, 2001
I received a bag of 155 nutplates with my fuselage kit that should have contained 8-32 nutplates but actually contained 10-32 nutplates. Van's exchanged them and indicated that I wasn't the only one that this had happened to. Chris Heitman Dousman WI RV-9A N94ME (reserved) Fuselage http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html -----Original Message----- Interesting question and I have had a similiar experiance. I just checked the fit of a some screws and nutplates in preparation for attaching the glass tips to my stabilizers. Thay seemed very loose and I was doubting that I was pairing up the proper pieces of hardware. I'm hoping those with some experiance can pass on some info. Dennis Thomas ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bbrut55(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 20, 2001
Subject: First flight RV-4 N190 DL
RV-4 builders beware, DAVE LATHAM of Puyallup, WA had his RV-4 powered by a Bart 0-360 with hi comp pistons and electronic ignition twirling a Hartsell C/S prop successfully flown by test pilot Jose Andrews (RV-4 Builder, retired airline pilot) on Saturday, February 17 from Thun Field. According to Jose the aircraft flew hands off the first time. During the break in period for the engine, 180 mph without fairings has been seen on the airspeed. A couple of minor oil leaks were fixed and the airplane flown again on Sunday. Rate of Climb is in excess of 2200 fpm. Congratulations to Dave, the president of EAA Chapter 326 (http:// EAA326(at)iwarp.com). Now if we can just keep him on the ground without grinning. Bill Bruton, EAA 326 Photographer RV-8 Wiring ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 2001
From: "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: Re: Lycoming on Vernitherms
> Hence the > minimum or low oil temps are controlled by the airframe Let's face it, Van's airplanes are just too efficient, and us cold weather flyers just have to pay the price. Think that's going to make me want to move to Texas? I think not. Andy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net>
Subject: Position lights
Date: Jan 20, 2000
Hi listers, I want to mount nav lights on the fibreglass wingtips. I see one wire coming out of the body of the lamp which is the power supply, but should I provide a ground wire from the case to the airframe ? Looks like the bulb would be grounded by the case internally, but can't get to the airframe because of the fibreglass tip....sound right ?? Austin. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 20, 2001
Subject: Re: Scott R McDaniels' Assistance
In a message dated 2/19/01 8:34:13 AM Pacific Standard Time, dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes: << Scott has recently cleared up a number of ongoing questions for the RV-List. He is a great asset to the list and to Van's. We appreciate the donation of your knowledge and personal time to the list, Scott. From all of us, thanks! >> Well, said Dennis, and I add my thanks to Scott. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, finish kit stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "BERNIE KERR" <KERRJB(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Tow Bar
Date: Feb 20, 2001
Steve, I made one that weighs under 2 pounds with al from HomeDepot. Will send you a picture. Bernie ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 10:21 AM Subject: RV-List: Tow Bar > > Listers: > > Has anyone out there in the e-world found a tow bar that works well for a > RV-6A? If so, where did you get it? > > Steve > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 20, 2001
Subject: Re: Lycoming on Vernitherms
Do oil temps less than the desired 180 degree range have adverse effects on engine performance or cause premature failure? Will flying around with 140 degree oil harm the engine? Kevin in WA -9A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: A Great Plane
Date: Feb 20, 2001
We just had a great weekend that I couldn't help but want to share with everyone. This RV-8A is one great aircraft. And a testament to how accurate Van's numbers are. Last Thursday, at 3:40 PM, we finished the 25 hour test flight period and a 4:00pm we checked in for The Great Hawaiian Air Race. Mind you, we had no cross country time in the -8A to use for true numbers so this race was going to be the first. We used Van's numbers and subtracted the 15 knots for no leg and wheel fairings. Gang, after 500 NM, we were within 80 seconds and 1.5 gallons of our guess and placed second out of 35 aircraft. And neither of us had ever raced before. We had estimated 4+20 for the 500 and 38.1 gallons of fuel. At the finish line it took us 4hours 21 minutes and 20 seconds and we burned 36.6 gallons. The power settings varied from about 50 % power to about 80% power. That works out to an average of 120 Kts and 8.4 gph. There were no mechanical problems and the oil temp stayed between 190 and 212 depending on speeds and climbing. The winds on Friday, the first leg, were 060 at 30+ knots, right in out face, and on Sunday they were 060 at 15-20 kts. What a machine, and what a gas. I highly recommend a proficiency race for anyone who wants to see just how weel your machine is doing and to sharpen up your planning skills. One other note here too. I just got notified that I will be transfering to the Portland FSDO at the end of next month. I will be living in the Hillsboro area and look forward to meeting everyone up there. Mike Robertson RV-8A N809RS 30 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Lycoming on Vernitherms
Date: Feb 20, 2001
Kevin, In a sense it can hurt the engine in that any moisture in the oil won't burn off and can cause premature rust. Mike Robertson RV-8A N809RS >From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming on Vernitherms >Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 13:08:29 EST > > >Do oil temps less than the desired 180 degree range have adverse effects on >engine performance or cause premature failure? Will flying around with 140 >degree oil harm the engine? >Kevin in WA -9A > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 2001
From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Want to buy Wood prop
I'm in search of a servicable wood cruise prop for O-320/160hp RV-4. Please reply off list to cengland(at)netdoor.com or call Charlie at h 601-879-9596 w 601-351-7066 Thanks Charlie England ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Oxygen Systems
Date: Feb 20, 2001
I have searched the archives and found that folks like the Aerox and Mountain High systems. Any Comments? Recommendations? Aerox 13 Cubic Foot Tank 2 oxysaver cannulas 2 emergency face masks 2 inline adjustable flow meters calibrated to altitude 1 - 2 port regulator lines etc 2 mounting brackets Price Aircraft Spruce....$481 Rocky Mountain 14 Cubic Foot Tank 2 oxysaver cannulas 2 emergency face masks 2 inline adjustable flow meters calibrated to altitude 1 - 4 port piston/servo type regulator lines etc 2 mounting brackets Price Rocky Mountain....$525 Rick at Rocky Mountain says that their regulator is superior and not as susceptible to dirt as the butterfly type valves used by Aerox. Ross RV6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 2001
From: "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Position lights
Yes, sounds right. Best wishes, Jack Abell Austin wrote: > > Hi listers, > I want to mount nav lights on the fibreglass wingtips. > I see one wire coming out of the body of the lamp which is the power supply, > but should I provide a ground wire from the case to the airframe ? > Looks like the bulb would be grounded by the case internally, but can't get > to the airframe because of the fibreglass tip....sound right ?? > Austin. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 2001
From: KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Subject: Re: Lycoming on Vernitherms
Do oil temps less than the desired 180 degree range have adverse effects on >engine performance or cause premature failure? Will flying around with 140 >degree oil harm the engine? Not directly. The problems are the products of combustion. There is water and acids that get mixed in with the oil that low temperatures do not allow to boil off. They can accumulate at low oil temperatures and harm the engine that way. Eating away at stuff. SO: warming up the engine to higher temperatures is preferred to get rid of said garbage. Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 2001
Subject: Oil Temp Important
From: Gary Graham <beeb(at)teleport.com>
If you have anything but a new engine from the factory, Please become familiar with the following Lycoming documents: S.I. 1008B Oil Cooler Bypass, Thermostatic, Instructions for Installation S.I. 1255 Oil Cooler Bypass Valve, Thermostatic, Replacement S.I. 1423 Oil Cooler Bypass Valve P/N 75944, Thermostatic S.I. 1316A Oil Cooler Bypass Valve Seat, Repair of S.B. 518C Thermostatic Valve periodic inspection There have been at least three systems for oil temp bypass that I have seen. 1. Spring and piston (O-320 E2D et al, circa 1970's) 2. Oil Screen with Thermostatic Bypass 3. Oil Filter with Thermostatic Bypass (going to #'s 2. or 3. requires the removal of #1.) 4. Other after market systems e.g. Remote Filters There have been Improved Thermostatic Valves e.g. 75944-1, -YD, -L ; SL53E19600(no AD that I know of) CHECK YOUR VALVE(S.B.518C). Please read the above documents. Beware of outdated or used valves and adaptors. (these documents may have been updated or new ones issued under the same subject) Good Luck finding this stuff at FAA or Local Shop (if you find on-line please report) Gary, Hillsboro, OR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tow Bar
Date: Feb 20, 2001
Steve, We picked up the deluxe (2 piece) Cessna tow bar from ACS - ($35 if I remember). Works great. Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A (finishing F/G) Niantic, CT & (Westerly airport) p.s. If it doesn't work you're only out the shipping ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: First flight RV-4 N190 DL
Date: Feb 20, 2001
Please pass on our CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE to Dave. Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A (finishing F/G) Niantic, CT & (Westerly airport) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: "pre-owned" clekos wanted!
Date: Feb 20, 2001
I'm building 2 wings at once.I NEED MORE CLEKOS! :-) Anyone wanting to sell any of theirs please contact me off list! lucky rv8 wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fran Malczynski" <ebafm(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: First Flight
Date: Feb 20, 2001
Tony, that's great. Another one for the Empire State. How did you manage to get a break in the weather to even make a first flight? Here in western NY we havnen't had a decent flying day in weeks. Congratulations , hopefully I'll join you in the skies sometime mid year. Fran Malczynski Olcott, NY RV6 - N594EF (finishing the 10,000 details) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Anthony J Castellano" <tcastella(at)juno.com> Sent: Monday, February 19, 2001 22:00 Subject: RV-List: First Flight > > Today I made the first flight of my RV-6 from DXR. It was perfectly > trimmed and flew > hands and feet off. > Engine is a O360-A!A with Airflow Performance fuel injection and > Electroair (Jeff Rose) > electronic ignition. Prop is a new Hartzell constant speed. > Thank you Van for designing a wonderful airplane. > Tony Castellano > tcastella(at)juno.com > Hopewell Junction, NY > RV-6 N401TC > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 20, 2001
Subject: Re: A Great Plane
Mike, I too am interested in what the costs are to get the plane over here from there. Could you post this on the list? Thanks, Kevin in WA. -9A starting to finish ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: Lasar and Rocky Mountain Micromonitor
Date: Feb 20, 2001
Does anyone out there have the temperature sensing Lasar system and the RMI Micromonitor? I have a two-in-one probe from Unison for plugging into the CHT fitting on the cylinder . This probe has four wires - two from a thermistor which tell the Lasar what the CHT is doing and two thermocouple wires. The problem is that the thermocouple is not of the grounded variety, which most are. Ron M. told me to try it, and maybe add a resistor to that probe if it misbehaves, but he wasn't really sure if it would work. Anyone run into this? Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN 6A ------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 2001
From: Tom Moore <qba321tm(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Clecoes for Sale
Dean, I'm just getting started, so I'm not familiar with the #3 and #4 terms. If the #3 is a 3/32 and a #4 is a 1/8, I'd like to take you up on your offer. If they are available, I'd like 200 of 3/32 and 100 of the 1/8. Let me know, Thanks, Tom Moore ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: A Great Plane
Date: Feb 20, 2001
Kevin, 20 foot containers are running right around $1200 from Honolulu to Seattle. Add about $225 for pickup and delivery at this end and then whatever it would be at that end and lumber for wing and empenage cradles and you have it. Mike Robertson >From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: A Great Plane >Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 18:19:37 EST > > >Mike, I too am interested in what the costs are to get the plane over here >from there. Could you post this on the list? >Thanks, >Kevin in WA. >-9A starting to finish > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 20, 2001
Subject: Initial Engine Run Questions
After a couple of engine runs on my freshly overhauled O-320, I've got a couple of questions: 1) I can't get my oil temps up above 120 degrees before my CHT's get to 375 or so, which I'm using as a ground run limit. Lycoming recommends getting temps to 140 degrees or so during ground runs. I've blocked airflow to the oil cooler, so what else is a guy to do? 2) I've got one mag and one ElectroAir ignition. At idle, the engine runs much smoother and will idle at much lower RPM with the Electronic Ignition (E.I.)than it will with the mag. I expected this. The odd thing is that I get an RPM increase when I shut the E.I. off during a runup. The only thing I can think of (and Jeff Rose agreed with this) is that the E.I. may be miss-timed. It doesn't seem to be a fouling problem, as the engine is still very smooth. Are there any other possibilities beyond a timing issue? 3) How long am I gonna have to put up with smoke from *curing* engine enamel or fingerprints. After my last (warmest) engine run, I was, um, apprehensive because of the amount of smoke coming from the intakes on shut-down... And, no, it didn't smell like burning oil... An observation: If the plane flys as good as it taxis, I'll never make a bad landing... Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 2001
From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Lycoming on Vernitherms
Kevin, If you shut off ( or nearly so ) the flow through the cooler, the oil that's in there could sludge up on you and not want to flow when you open it later at lower altitude and perhaps warmer temperature. Personally, I like the idea of controling the airflow better. On another note; a friend of mine rode his Triumph Trident motorcyle through the mountains of Colorado with snow on the ground and siezed his engine. So he removed his oil tank and cooked it over a fire on the side of the road until the oil was liquid again. He covered the cooler completely and rode away. About six months later it siezed again probably from bearing damage incurred the first time. Ed Holyoke ----- Original Message ----- From: <Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Monday, February 19, 2001 8:39 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming on Vernitherms > > This has been a pretty interesting thread to say the least. It appears those > trying to control the air flow across the cooler itself have been correct. > Lets add another wrinkle to this solution, instead of controlling the air, > how about installing a ball valve right at the oil cooler which would direct > all, some, or none of the oil either through the cooler or divert back into > the return line. This valve would be controlled from the cockpit via a cable. > Just like the valves that control the hot water that flows to the heater > cores of our millions of automobiles. Same principle, different objective. > Boy, ya gotta love the experimental category. > Kevin Shannon > -9A getting ready to hang engine and > planning oil cooler mounting logistics ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 2001
From: Earl Fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Help! RV-4 Fuse Bulkhead Line Up Problem
I sent a pic to your email site of my RV4 on the inside where the 413 angle meets F404. Hope it helps. Just wanted you to know because I dont open attachments from people I dont know. Cheers, Earl RV4 N8292W(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > > OK, I have a problem and can't figure it out. I was wondering if anyone else > had this problem. > > On my RV-4 Fuse, the .125 AL angle on F413 does not line up with the .063 > angle on F404. These AL angle should meet approx. 90 degrees and have one > rivet attaching them. They are about 1/4 off or so and thus I cannot get a > rivet between them. I have the F413 aligned with the bottom of the firewall > and the bottom of F404, but the top side appears to be 1/4 too tall thus not > permitting the AL angles to line up. > > I am having the same problem on the back side, the AL angle on the F415 does > not line up well with the .063 angle on the back of F404. Again the F415 is > lined up on the bottom of F404 and F407, but it too appears too tall as the > AL angle on F415 is higher than the attaching angle on the back of F404. > > I assume that is a very important rivet as it ties the heavy AL angle from > the firewall to the wingspar and then back to F407. Is it safe to just rivet > the rest of the rib bulkheads but not the AL angles together? Any > help/advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks > -Mike > was doing good on the fuse, now frustrated.... > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BSEckstein(at)cs.com
Date: Feb 20, 2001
Subject: Re: Oxygen Systems
Before you buy, check the price at Chief. They had the 22 liter Aerox system for the same price as the 13 liter. Brian Eckstein ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
Subject: New Pictures
Date: Feb 20, 2001
To those that were interested, I just finished uploading a series of pictures of my engine compartment. These include photos of the springs on the throttle arm and mixture arm (although we know these aren't needed), photos of my oil cooler installation with cockpit controlled door controlling air into the cooler, and my gascolator installation which allows me to drain the gascolator via a small trap door in the side of the cowling. Go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-6and6a/files Look for N417G - Randy Pflanzer's RV-6 and click on it. Then look for N417G (RV-6) Engine Details. The pictures are in this folder. Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (120 hours) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Oxygen Systems
Date: Feb 20, 2001
> Before you buy, check the price at Chief. They had the 22 liter Aerox system > for the same price as the 13 liter. > > Brian Eckstein I have decided on the 13-14 cf because it fits my profile better. The only difference in the Rocky Mountain and Aerox systems is the regulator. Is the piston driven Rocky Mountain better as advertised by them? Ross ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Another first flight.
Date: Feb 20, 2001
RV8 N83JD flys! It flew perfect. Almost no trim adjustment needed. We did have one small problem. There was oil on the belly. Luckily I had a chase plane to alert me to the potential problem. After landing ( a perfect 10) we pulled the cowl only to find the right side mag laying in the cowl. WOW! This engine is a hopped up 360 with LASAR ignition. There was no power loss at all. I cant decide if this is good or bad. Not sure why the nuts came loose as there where installed by the shop that installed the LASAR. The big lesson here is to keep the first flight short.I like to keep them down 30 min. max. Also ,if you can get a chase plane, it is invaluable. Had it not been for my chase, I would have been up there fat, dumb, and happy.TerryB. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Too Short Cam-Loc Fasteners
Date: Feb 20, 2001
> Same problem here too, but I didn't want to grind down the inside like > Randall because the interior of my cowling is PAINTED so I went with the -4s > also. I guess I wasn't clear. What I ground down was the camlock receptacle itself -- the base of it where it gets riveted to the door. Not saying going with -4s is wrong either but it saved me having to order the other ones. Randall ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Subject: Re: Oxygen Systems
In a message dated 2/20/01 6:20:46 PM Pacific Standard Time, BSEckstein(at)cs.com writes: << Before you buy, check the price at Chief. They had the 22 liter Aerox system for the same price as the 13 liter. >> FYI, the capacity of these O2 cylinders is measured in cf (cu ft), not liters. You're going to get people confused. Indeed one of the 22 cu ft cylinders (the M size) is a good fit for the RV if you do a lot of high altitude cruising. I make several trips per year over the tall stuff here in CA and installed the Aerox 13 cu ft (the D size), as it takes up a little less room in the luggage area. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Subject: Re: Tow Bar
In a message dated 2/20/01 7:23:11 AM Pacific Standard Time, SSoule(at)pfclaw.com writes: << Has anyone out there in the e-world found a tow bar that works well for a RV-6A? If so, where did you get it? >> Ken Barto makes a good one, but I recommend the heavy duty one for regular use. Ken is listed in the Yeller Pages under JAK's Products. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Glover" <wirraway2(at)bravo.net.au>
Subject: Re: First Flight
Date: Feb 21, 2001
<< trimmed and flew > hands and feet off.>>> Congratulations and well done......... Cheers, Ken Glover Hunter Valley Australia RV6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Glover" <wirraway2(at)bravo.net.au>
Subject: Re: Another first flight.
Date: Feb 21, 2001
<<>> Congratulations and well done......... Cheers, Ken Glover Hunter Valley Australia RV6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Manual Elevator Trim
Date: Feb 21, 2001
From: Jack <jgh(at)iavbbs.com>
The feel and simplicity of the manual elevator vernier is great but I'm trying to eliminate the center console normally used to mount it and the engine controls. Is it possible to mount all of these controls on a recessed subpanel hung from the instrument panel without stick interference? Does anybody have a sketch or photo showing how they did it? Can the manual trim knob be reduced in diameter? Jack H. RV-6A - panel jgh(at)iavbbs.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 2001
From: Randy Simpson <airtime(at)proaxis.com>
Subject: Re: Titanium Tie Down winter deal...
Hi RV-listers, I thank my recent Ti-down customers for the kind words below. This is a reminder that my special RV-List wintertime deal is almost over. Thru the end of this month, my Titanium Ti-downs are $20 off the list price for RV-list customers. The present price is: $60 for the five coil set (#5165-3), and $70 for the kit (#5165-3K)(and I pay for the shipping and handling). Repeat customers reduce those prices by $10. Please send me a private email for ordering details. Something to think about...I've had 2 RV-List customers buy a second set to take to fly-ins to use on the planes on either side of them, to tie their outer wings down. If the neighbor plane's cheapo doggie tie down breaks, the plane will flip the opposite way of my customers plane. I like that kind of thinking *smile* I've been working extra hard lately, trying to get as many sets/kits made as possible before Sun-N-Fun. I presently have 40+ sets ready to go, and am trying to average 2 sets a day on my small scale, one man production line. Here's a pile of about 30 polished sets: http://www.airtimemfg.com/Images/pile-o-Ti-downs.jpg I've also added a new gold/yellow color to the choice for bag color. That brings it up to 10 different colors available for the bags. I will probably soon drop the $10 off price for unpolished Ti-downs. I've made a little machine to polish the coil part of the Ti-downs. This little machine does a better job than I can do by hand, and it's ALOT easier. Here's a couple of pics of the machine, before I made a better clamp than the rubberband method shown. http://www.airtimemfg.com/Images/polisher1.jpg http://www.airtimemfg.com/Images/polisher2.jpg My sales to RV-Listers is slowing, as most people here who like the Titanium Ti-down idea already have sprung for a kit (I'd estimate 20-25 percent of you), so I'll begin advertising in flying magazines this spring. Sincerely, Randy Simpson Airtime Mfg. http://www.airtimemfg.com hopeing to make it to Sun-N-Fun this year, and deaming of owning and flying my own RV someday... p.s. I had a computer glitch and lost a block of emails during the flurry of orders I recieved after my previous spamlike note to the RV-List, so if you inquired about the Ti-downs and didn't recieve a reply from me, please re-inquire...Thanks, and sorry for any delay/non reply if you were ignored, accidently. -------------------- At 01:53 AM 2/18/01, you wrote: >We have just rec'd our Ti tie down kit from Randy and we couldn't be more pleased. I think we've figured out why he provides free shipping - They are so darn light they look great. The kit which includes a carry bag & rope is first rate. >Highly recommended !>ChucK & Dave Rowbotham >RV-8A ( finishing F/G work ) > and Robert McCallum wrote: Couldn't agree more. Randy's tiedowns are beautiful. The complete kit of three tiedowns, a cheater bar for extra leverage, the necessary ropes, and the storage bag weigh next to nothing, nest together so that they take up virtually no space (they easily fit into a 2.5 x 2.5 x 18 inch box) and are amazingly strong. The storage bag is equally well made of what appears to be very durable material so that not only will it last but it will prevent the tiedowns from marring your interior. I highly recommend them to any one interested. BTW he also shipped free to me in Canada. Bob please archive ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "BERNIE KERR" <KERRJB(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Manual Elevator Trim
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Hi Jack, When I did 60WM, originally ordered manual trim. Changed to electric to eliminate the console, which is a good idea. I have not been really satisfied with the electric. If you slow it down to where it is practical at cruise, it seems too slow when you are slowing down in the pattern and initiating the flaps (maybe a variable speed switch?) Am currently helping a friend with a 6QB and we are going to try a 24 inch shorter cable and let it come out of the spar under the pilot's right knee. We will move the fuel selector to the right a few inches so that the pilot can reach down by his right leg and twist the trim knob. There is not any normal ergonomic reaction as to which way to twist the knob, so even though this will be reversed to the current direction do not beleive this will be a problem. Bernie Kerr, 6A flying, SE Fla ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack" <jgh(at)iavbbs.com> Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 6:07 AM Subject: RV-List: Manual Elevator Trim > > The feel and simplicity of the manual elevator vernier is great but I'm > trying to eliminate the center console normally used to mount it and the > engine controls. Is it possible to mount all of these controls on a > recessed subpanel hung from the instrument panel without stick > interference? Does anybody have a sketch or photo showing how they did > it? Can the manual trim knob be reduced in diameter? > > Jack H. > RV-6A - panel > jgh(at)iavbbs.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Another first flight.
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Terry, CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!!!! Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A (finishing F/G) Niantic, CT >From: "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> > >RV8 N83JD flys! It flew perfect. Almost no trim adjustment needed. We >did have one small problem. There was oil on the belly. Luckily I had a >chase plane to alert me to the potential problem. After landing ( a >perfect 10) we pulled the cowl only to find the right side mag laying in >the cowl. WOW! >This engine is a hopped up 360 with LASAR ignition. There was no power >loss at all. I cant decide if this is good or bad. Not sure why the nuts >came loose as there where installed by the shop that installed the >LASAR. The big lesson here is to keep the first flight short.I like to >keep them down 30 min. max. Also ,if you can get a chase plane, it is >invaluable. Had it not been for my chase, I would have been up there >fat, dumb, and happy.TerryB. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 2001
From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Manual Elevator Trim
Jack, I'm planning to do a trim lever in the armrest. Positive, intuititive and much lighter than that big heavy vernier cable. I bet you could do the same thing between the seats if you're carefull to avoid the push/pull tube. Or you could get a shorter vernier cable and set it facing forward between the seats in front of the electric flap mechanizm (if so equipped). I've seen them set in the fuel selector console, too. Sit in the airplane and let your mind run wild. You can probably come up with more ideas and one of them might work for you. Ed Holyoke RV-6 QB push/pull tube ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack" <jgh(at)iavbbs.com> Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 3:07 AM Subject: RV-List: Manual Elevator Trim > > The feel and simplicity of the manual elevator vernier is great but I'm > trying to eliminate the center console normally used to mount it and the > engine controls. Is it possible to mount all of these controls on a > recessed subpanel hung from the instrument panel without stick > interference? Does anybody have a sketch or photo showing how they did > it? Can the manual trim knob be reduced in diameter? > > Jack H. > RV-6A - panel > jgh(at)iavbbs.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ENewton57(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Subject: Re: Another first flight.
In a message dated 2/20/01 10:54:20 PM Central Standard Time, rv6man(at)earthlink.net writes: << RV8 N83JD flys! >> Terry, Congratulations and thanks for the great tip. Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Finish Kit - hanging engine) http://www.ericsrv6a.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Tow Bar
Date: Feb 21, 2001
GV wrote: > Ken Barto makes a good one, but I recommend the heavy duty one for regular > use. Ken is listed in the Yeller Pages under JAK's Products. I wondered. I just got a Barto Tobar :-) and it is very professionally made and nice and light for hauling around. I might make a heavier one for the hangar of heavier stuff. Ken's design is a U with a T. The U has pins, one fixed, one moveable, at the ends. The pins go INTO the sockets of the Allen bolts that hold on the nose wheel skirt. The T handle attaches to the curve of the U, of course. One big sweeping bend (the U) and two welds does it. Hal Kempthorne RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "skybolt-aviator" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Tow Bar
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Yes,the deluxe cessna towbar as shown on page 490 of aircraft spruce catalog (p/n13-01540).The bottom lugs may need slight modifacation.I also made overcenter bar to hold it open to attach to nosewheel.I can explain better over phone ,813 633 0250. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 10:21 AM Subject: RV-List: Tow Bar > > Listers: > > Has anyone out there in the e-world found a tow bar that works well for a > RV-6A? If so, where did you get it? > > Steve > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ENewton57(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Subject: Gear Leg Wobble
I just finished installing my landing gear on the RV-6A and have noticed that for some reason the bolt that holds the right one is a little loose in the hole. The left one is tight enough that I had to lightly tap the bolt in with a wooden mallet. Funny thing is, I used the same 5/16" drill bit for both so i can't figure how one is loose and the other tight. Anyway, I put it all together and torqued the nuts down to 90 inch pounds and it still has play. I can move the wheel about 1/32" back and forth (toe in and toe out). I searched the archives and found two possible solutions. One is to put a tack weld at the top of the gear where the mount and gear leg meet. The other is a taper pin sold by ACS that has threads on one end and is tapered to fit the hole after using a special taper reamer on it. Anyone have suggestions or recommendations? I'll call Vans and see what they say also. Thanks guys (and/or gals), Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Finish Kit - slop in gear leg) http://www.ericsrv6a.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 2001
From: "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Initial Engine Run Questions
KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > After a couple of engine runs on my freshly overhauled O-320, I've got a > couple of questions: > > 1) I can't get my oil temps up above 120 degrees before my CHT's get to 375 > or so, which I'm using as a ground run limit. Lycoming recommends getting > temps to 140 degrees or so during ground runs. I've blocked airflow to the > oil cooler, so what else is a guy to do? Fly the engine. Unless you have a proper cooling setup extended ground runs can cause more damage that good. Oil temps usually take about 20 minutes flight time to stabalize. Without proper equipment you can't get rated HP on the ground hence the oil temps will never come up. > > > 2) I've got one mag and one ElectroAir ignition. At idle, the engine runs > much smoother and will idle at much lower RPM with the Electronic Ignition > (E.I.)than it will with the mag. I expected this. The odd thing is that I > get an RPM increase when I shut the E.I. off during a runup. The only thing > I can think of (and Jeff Rose agreed with this) is that the E.I. may be > miss-timed. It doesn't seem to be a fouling problem, as the engine is still > very smooth. Are there any other possibilities beyond a timing issue? Timing is the problem. Have you checked that the MAP sensor on the EI is getting vacuum? If the sensor has no input then your timing on the EI is about 6 degrees shy of what it should be, or at the initial setting of around 18 BTDC. > > > 3) How long am I gonna have to put up with smoke from *curing* engine > enamel or fingerprints. After my last (warmest) engine run, I was, um, > apprehensive because of the amount of smoke coming from the intakes on > shut-down... And, no, it didn't smell like burning oil... Granted the paint has to cure but how hot do you really think that engine is getting without proper coolling airflow. Limit ground testing to breaking in the brake pads and one hi speed handling test. These engines need 75% or higher power settings and proper cooling for break in or youll glaze the cylinders and never get proper oil control. On Chrome majors short to no ground runs are even more important. Fly the airplane, or cook the engine on the ground. Gary Zilik ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Manual Elevator Trim
From: Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
Date: Feb 21, 2001
02/21/2001 09:55:51 AM Jack, your trim lever in the arm rest sounds like a good idea. You could use a Van's throttle quadrant with just one lever. Would make a nice smoothly tensioned trim mechanism. You would sure want to protect it so you could not inadvertantly bump it. That could be real bad at 200MPH. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Tow Bar
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Any chance of posting a picture of it? Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 44 hours Hampshire, IL C38 -----Original Message----- From: kempthornes <kempthornes(at)home.com> Date: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 8:22 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Tow Bar > >GV wrote: >> Ken Barto makes a good one, but I recommend the heavy duty one for regular >> use. Ken is listed in the Yeller Pages under JAK's Products. > >I wondered. I just got a Barto Tobar :-) and it is very professionally >made and nice and light for hauling around. I might make a heavier one for >the hangar of heavier stuff. > >Ken's design is a U with a T. The U has pins, one fixed, one moveable, at >the ends. The pins go INTO the sockets of the Allen bolts that hold on the >nose wheel skirt. The T handle attaches to the curve of the U, of course. >One big sweeping bend (the U) and two welds does it. > >Hal Kempthorne >RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Manual Elevator Trim
Date: Feb 21, 2001
The trim lever works well in my friend's -4. I would be concerned with overcontrolling using a trim lever on a 6A. I wonder if there are any 6es flying with a trim lever. I'd like to hear from you. Let me give you an example of the extreme sensitivity of my 6A to pitch trim. I have the Gretz electric trim mounted in the tail cone. It uses a Mac 8 servo with a displacement of 1.8 inches. It takes about 22 seconds to travel the 1.8 inches. I want to tell you that 22 seconds seems like an eternity when you are executing a touch-and-go or go-around. At level cruise the shortest possible blip on the trim toggle switch invariably overcontrols the pitch trim! I go from 100 fpm up to 100 fpm down, and back and forth, back and forth .... Now it seems to me that I am blipping for an effective pulse duration of only 1 nanosecond, but lets be realistic and say my blips are 50 milliseconds in duration. Then the trim cable is displaced (1.8 inches)x(0.05 second/22 seconds) = 0.005 inch. It seems to me that it would be hard to achieve this kind of vernier control with a trim lever. The next time I have the tail fairing off I'll measure the minimum servo displacement with a dial gauge and see what it is. Maybe another lister can do it sooner and report the results. Note by the way that I spent my first 200 hours or so of flying in a C150 that was out of rig. I had to constantly apply aileron correction. It was not until I worked on my instrument rating in that plane that I learned the need to properly trim a plane. I realize that many RV pilots fly with their planes slightly out of trim and it doesn't matter a bit to them. For those of you "picky" guys like me that want the plane to fly hands-off in calm air, be aware that achieving perfect pitch trim is not as easy as it might seem. Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 44 hours Hampshire, IL C38 -----Original Message----- From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> Date: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 8:06 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Manual Elevator Trim > >Jack, >I'm planning to do a trim lever in the armrest. Positive, intuititive and >much lighter than that big heavy vernier cable. I bet you could do the same >thing between the seats if you're carefull to avoid the push/pull tube. Or >you could get a shorter vernier cable and set it facing forward between the >seats in front of the electric flap mechanizm (if so equipped). I've seen >them set in the fuel selector console, too. Sit in the airplane and let your >mind run wild. You can probably come up with more ideas and one of them >might work for you. >Ed Holyoke >RV-6 QB push/pull tube > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Jack" <jgh(at)iavbbs.com> >To: "RV-list" >Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 3:07 AM >Subject: RV-List: Manual Elevator Trim > > >> >> The feel and simplicity of the manual elevator vernier is great but I'm >> trying to eliminate the center console normally used to mount it and the >> engine controls. Is it possible to mount all of these controls on a >> recessed subpanel hung from the instrument panel without stick >> interference? Does anybody have a sketch or photo showing how they did >> it? Can the manual trim knob be reduced in diameter? >> >> Jack H. >> RV-6A - panel >> jgh(at)iavbbs.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Browne" <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Pneumatic Squeezer - Sold/C-Frame still available
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Thanks for the response on the squeezer, it has sold. The C-frame tool is still available, $129 new will take $75. Chris Browne Atlanta ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Manual Elevator Trim
Date: Feb 21, 2001
[snip] > Is it possible to mount all of these controls on a > recessed subpanel hung from the instrument panel without stick > interference? Does anybody have a sketch or photo showing how they did > it? See http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/instp.html for how I did it. > Can the manual trim knob be reduced in diameter? Probably, although I didn't. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: exhaust failure..high EGT's
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Thread-Topic: exhaust failure..high EGT's Thread-Index: AcCcIpsC6cklvW5wRjW3NRXd6Hl10w=
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
Over the weekend, I had the #3 crossover pipe fail on my Vetterman exhaust. I was pretty close to my airport but other that a few moments of excitement trying to figure out what was going on the expedited landing was a non-event. Sure made a bunch of noise and the cowl vibrated quite a bit. Good thing there was no fire because the way the weld broke exhaust gases were pointed right at the carb. I spoke to Larry this morning as he was out of town for several days, and out of the 4000+ exhaust systems he's built, there's only one that has failed in the same manner mine has, in the area along the weld where the #4 crossover pipe connects to the #3 exhaust on the right side. The exhaust has 85 hours on it. When I pulled the cowl the pipe fell to the floor--it completely broke off. So, guys don't get your shorts in a wad and flood Larry or Van's or whoever with phone calls about this...it's truly an anomaly. I noticed a small crack along the weld some time ago, and have had others look at the tiny hairline crack that appeared. Both people told me to not worry about it; just keep an eye on it, if there's evidence of exhaust leaking out the crack then worry about it. I made a mistake in not listening to myself and had it repaired. So, on now to the cause. I think the failure was metallurgical in nature; either the pipe was not stress relieved correctly or there were faults in the composition of the stainless. I don't think the weld itself was bad, or caused by high EGT's (which, by the way, I discovered during this ordeal.) I agreed to remove the exhaust and send it to Larry for repairs. It sucks to be down again for another week and a half, but surely he'll fix what's broken and make it better. On topic I brought up in my conversation with Larry was having Jet-Hot coat my exhaust...His response was pretty much like 'hell no' based on opinions he got on the subject from a metallurgist with an extensive background in turbines. Now, on to my question. In discussing this failure with several people, unbeknownst previously to me I am running excessively high EGT's Typically in cruise my hottest cylinders run around 1520, burning 9.2-9.5 gal/hr (75% @ 3000ft) leaned out to roughness then backing off a little. CHT's run in the 320-370 range. My engine is a carbureted O-360, Electroair ignition, and runs very smooth in cruise. Two of the opinions I have received so far indicate a carburetor jetting problem, or maybe a problem with the 100LL I'm getting. According to the source of the latter, some manufacturers of avgas are using increased amounts of toluene in their fuel to combat lead fouling, and the side-effect is hotter EGT's. I'm not sure if I buy into that one. Seems to me I have a carb problem. With that being said in my long diatribe here, is there a way to check the jetting of the carb without sending it off to precision airmotive? I've thumbed through the carb overhaul manual and really don't want to 'fix what's not broke' in doing a complete overhaul. It is easy to check and adjust the jetting without dismantling the carb, if jetting can be a probable cause of my high EGT's? Bob Japundza RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Gear Leg Wobble
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Eric wrote: > I just finished installing my landing gear on the RV-6A and have noticed that > for some reason the bolt that holds the right one is a little loose in the > hole. The left one is tight enough that I had to lightly tap the bolt in > with a wooden mallet. Funny thing is, I used the same 5/16" drill bit for > both so i can't figure how one is loose and the other tight. More precise holes require something other than drill bits, especially in hard to drill materials. Reamers, for example. Maybe the plans should call for reaming here? Hal Kempthorne RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: exhaust failure..high EGT's
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Run LOP WOT Lean Of Peak, Wide Open Throttle ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 10:23 AM Subject: RV-List: exhaust failure..high EGT's > > Over the weekend, I had the #3 crossover pipe fail on my Vetterman > exhaust. I was pretty close to my airport but other that a few moments > of excitement trying to figure out what was going on the expedited > landing was a non-event. Sure made a bunch of noise and the cowl > vibrated quite a bit. Good thing there was no fire because the way the > weld broke exhaust gases were pointed right at the carb. > > I spoke to Larry this morning as he was out of town for several days, > and out of the 4000+ exhaust systems he's built, there's only one that > has failed in the same manner mine has, in the area along the weld where > the #4 crossover pipe connects to the #3 exhaust on the right side. The > exhaust has 85 hours on it. When I pulled the cowl the pipe fell to the > floor--it completely broke off. So, guys don't get your shorts in a wad > and flood Larry or Van's or whoever with phone calls about this...it's > truly an anomaly. I noticed a small crack along the weld some time ago, > and have had others look at the tiny hairline crack that appeared. Both > people told me to not worry about it; just keep an eye on it, if there's > evidence of exhaust leaking out the crack then worry about it. I made a > mistake in not listening to myself and had it repaired. > > So, on now to the cause. I think the failure was metallurgical in > nature; either the pipe was not stress relieved correctly or there were > faults in the composition of the stainless. I don't think the weld > itself was bad, or caused by high EGT's (which, by the way, I discovered > during this ordeal.) I agreed to remove the exhaust and send it to > Larry for repairs. It sucks to be down again for another week and a > half, but surely he'll fix what's broken and make it better. > > On topic I brought up in my conversation with Larry was having Jet-Hot > coat my exhaust...His response was pretty much like 'hell no' based on > opinions he got on the subject from a metallurgist with an extensive > background in turbines. > > Now, on to my question. In discussing this failure with several people, > unbeknownst previously to me I am running excessively high EGT's > Typically in cruise my hottest cylinders run around 1520, burning > 9.2-9.5 gal/hr (75% @ 3000ft) leaned out to roughness then backing off a > little. CHT's run in the 320-370 range. My engine is a carbureted > O-360, Electroair ignition, and runs very smooth in cruise. Two of the > opinions I have received so far indicate a carburetor jetting problem, > or maybe a problem with the 100LL I'm getting. According to the source > of the latter, some manufacturers of avgas are using increased amounts > of toluene in their fuel to combat lead fouling, and the side-effect is > hotter EGT's. I'm not sure if I buy into that one. Seems to me I have > a carb problem. With that being said in my long diatribe here, is there > a way to check the jetting of the carb without sending it off to > precision airmotive? I've thumbed through the carb overhaul manual and > really don't want to 'fix what's not broke' in doing a complete > overhaul. It is easy to check and adjust the jetting without > dismantling the carb, if jetting can be a probable cause of my high > EGT's? > > Bob Japundza > RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com>
Subject: Manual Elevator Trim
Date: Feb 21, 2001
I like the roll wheel like in my 172. I wonder if something like that could be retro-fitted. I'll have to look into it. Greg Tanner RV-9A Empennage SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 6:58 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Manual Elevator Trim Jack, your trim lever in the arm rest sounds like a good idea. You could use a Van's throttle quadrant with just one lever. Would make a nice smoothly tensioned trim mechanism. You would sure want to protect it so you could not inadvertantly bump it. That could be real bad at 200MPH. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Subject: Re: IK Technologies Engine Monitor (EIS input)
In a message dated 2/20/01 1:35:35 AM Pacific Standard Time, KERRJB(at)email.msn.com writes: << I continue to find neat things that my EIS does. I just installed Van's new fuel gages that work with the original senders and decided to see how good they were at "zero" fuel pick up. ---SNIP--- NEAT to have two independent systems saying hey, you are running a fuel tank dry. >> Bernie: I have decided to go with the EIS monitor based on all the capabilities I have read of and this sounds like icing on the cake, but help me out with something. My ignorance, but I don't understand what you did. Does the EIS have fuel quantity monitoring capability, and if so why did you install the Van's gages? Also, if so, are the gages and the EIS connected in parallel to the original senders. Thanks. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, finish kit stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Subject: Re: Tank screws - lose fit
In a message dated 2/20/01 8:12:26 AM Pacific Standard Time, DThomas773(at)AOL.COM writes: << I'm hoping those with some experience can pass on some info. >> O.K., I don't know if this will be any help or not but I'll toss it in anyway. Awhile back I found that I had somehow mixed some -3 nutplates in with my -08s. They look very similar at first glance. The way I discovered this was because of my habit of running a short -08 screw into my nutplates to secure them before riveting them. The short screw would not tighten up because it had not engaged the locking part of the nutplate and was slightly stripping. I hope this is not your problem but if so better to find it now! Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, finish kit stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 2001
From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: exhaust failure..high EGT's
Bob, How about describing you EGT setup to us to help with ideas. What type and brand of system are you using? How far down from the exhaust flange are the probes mounted. Anything else that is "different" than other systems you've seen? Is it just one cylinder or all of them running high? What do the plugs look like? I've always heard that the absolute # you see isn't really critical, as different positions (vertically along the exhaust) of the thermocouples will have great differences in measurement. It's really the difference (delta) that is important for trouble shooting. I get the feeling that you probably would have burnt a piston (just my opinion) by now if you really were running that hot. I normally see 1375 when peaked at cruise on my O-360 A1A. I would be worried about seeing an absolute #'s in the 1500's. BTW, I have Jet Hot 2000 deg coating on my Vetterman exhaust. I would not do it again on a stainless ehaust (although I would if it were mild steel). From what I've heard from welders, you can not reweld once the coating has been applied. So if it breaks, I get to get a new one. This comes from a gent on the field (who fabricates stainless exhausts for EZ's) and has tried to repair such. It does look good though. Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 165 hrs (still hurting from Earnhardt's death) O-360, Sensenich (83) Simi Valley, SoCal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Avery Tools - Support These Good People
Date: Feb 21, 2001
I just finished speaking with Bob Avery from Avery Tools. Best to start at the beginning of the story. I purchased my plane already flying so I didn't know which pads to get for the RV. I called Spruce. They didn't know which pads were for the RV. I called Vans, they said "call Avery". I called Avery and they knew EXACTLY what I needed. Even mentioned a brake pad tool they had for $26. Fine. Sold. The pad kit included the CORRECT rivets and the pads. With the tool, I was good to go. I screwed up. I squeezed too hard with the tool. I broke one of the anvils that is used to push the old rivet out and later, managed to crush a pad. (wrist wasn't calibrated properly yet) I called Avery asking for assistance. I got a very nice, helpful girl who really couldn't answer my questions. She wasn't sure about splitting up a kit, and had no idea how to get parts for the tool. BUT she did the next best thing. She promised to get back to me. She didn't, instead the Boss called me back. Bob offered to send me a pad and 3 rivets for 1/4 of the full cost of a kit and offered to make a replacement anvil on his lathe, NO CHARGE. Jesus, thats service, if there is EVER anything I need, and Avery tools carries it, I will buy it from them. Keep in mind, they didn't fix their own screw ups, they fixed MY screw ups. Good people. Buy lots of stuff from them. Best regards, Don Mei ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: GRT manifold pressure hookup
Date: Feb 21, 2001
How are folks securing the manifold pressure box for the GRT 4000 engine monitor? There are no holes or mounting brackets on this little baby. Also, how are you plumbing it? Are you using a standard flare fitting into the engine then transitioning somehow to the barb fitting of the unit? Ross RV6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis /Fran Flamini" <flamini2(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: exhaust failure..high EGT's
Date: Feb 21, 2001
i have an IO-360 wiyh CS and 1750hrs with two cracked pipes on same side in same place, it's my opinion you don,t have to look any further than how the pipes are supported and what RPM you run at. Most times i have just put a flex conn where it cracked and that solved the problem, Dennis RV-10 Chicago----- Original Message ----- From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 11:33 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: exhaust failure..high EGT's > > Run LOP WOT Lean Of Peak, Wide Open Throttle > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 10:23 AM > Subject: RV-List: exhaust failure..high EGT's > > > > > > Over the weekend, I had the #3 crossover pipe fail on my Vetterman > > exhaust. I was pretty close to my airport but other that a few moments > > of excitement trying to figure out what was going on the expedited > > landing was a non-event. Sure made a bunch of noise and the cowl > > vibrated quite a bit. Good thing there was no fire because the way the > > weld broke exhaust gases were pointed right at the carb. > > > > I spoke to Larry this morning as he was out of town for several days, > > and out of the 4000+ exhaust systems he's built, there's only one that > > has failed in the same manner mine has, in the area along the weld where > > the #4 crossover pipe connects to the #3 exhaust on the right side. The > > exhaust has 85 hours on it. When I pulled the cowl the pipe fell to the > > floor--it completely broke off. So, guys don't get your shorts in a wad > > and flood Larry or Van's or whoever with phone calls about this...it's > > truly an anomaly. I noticed a small crack along the weld some time ago, > > and have had others look at the tiny hairline crack that appeared. Both > > people told me to not worry about it; just keep an eye on it, if there's > > evidence of exhaust leaking out the crack then worry about it. I made a > > mistake in not listening to myself and had it repaired. > > > > So, on now to the cause. I think the failure was metallurgical in > > nature; either the pipe was not stress relieved correctly or there were > > faults in the composition of the stainless. I don't think the weld > > itself was bad, or caused by high EGT's (which, by the way, I discovered > > during this ordeal.) I agreed to remove the exhaust and send it to > > Larry for repairs. It sucks to be down again for another week and a > > half, but surely he'll fix what's broken and make it better. > > > > On topic I brought up in my conversation with Larry was having Jet-Hot > > coat my exhaust...His response was pretty much like 'hell no' based on > > opinions he got on the subject from a metallurgist with an extensive > > background in turbines. > > > > Now, on to my question. In discussing this failure with several people, > > unbeknownst previously to me I am running excessively high EGT's > > Typically in cruise my hottest cylinders run around 1520, burning > > 9.2-9.5 gal/hr (75% @ 3000ft) leaned out to roughness then backing off a > > little. CHT's run in the 320-370 range. My engine is a carbureted > > O-360, Electroair ignition, and runs very smooth in cruise. Two of the > > opinions I have received so far indicate a carburetor jetting problem, > > or maybe a problem with the 100LL I'm getting. According to the source > > of the latter, some manufacturers of avgas are using increased amounts > > of toluene in their fuel to combat lead fouling, and the side-effect is > > hotter EGT's. I'm not sure if I buy into that one. Seems to me I have > > a carb problem. With that being said in my long diatribe here, is there > > a way to check the jetting of the carb without sending it off to > > precision airmotive? I've thumbed through the carb overhaul manual and > > really don't want to 'fix what's not broke' in doing a complete > > overhaul. It is easy to check and adjust the jetting without > > dismantling the carb, if jetting can be a probable cause of my high > > EGT's? > > > > Bob Japundza > > RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gregory Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: IK Technologies Engine Monitor (EIS input)
Date: Feb 21, 2001
My EIS4000 has the fuel flow/totalizer option but I also elected to install Van's gauges. Just in case the EIS goes TU, if I've got a little battery power left, I'll at least know my fuel state. Gauges will also show a fuel leak that totalizers won't. They also satisfy the FAR requirement (OK, maybe it is, maybe it isn't) for a fuel level indicator in case the DAR won't accept a totalizer. I have every option Grand Rapids offers for the EIS and still have 2 aux inputs available so... I could < > route the senders in parallel to the aux's to get the quantity displayed on the EIS - but I'll leave that for someone else to work out. Regards, Greg Young RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) final systems, waiting on engine > > In a message dated 2/20/01 1:35:35 AM Pacific Standard Time, > KERRJB(at)email.msn.com writes: > > << I continue to find neat things that my EIS does. I just > installed Van's new > fuel gages that work with the original senders and decided > to see how good > they were at "zero" fuel pick up. ---SNIP--- NEAT to have > two independent systems saying hey, you are running a fuel > tank dry. >> > > Bernie: I have decided to go with the EIS monitor based > on all the > capabilities I have read of and this sounds like icing on the > cake, but help > me out with something. My ignorance, but I don't understand > what you did. > Does the EIS have fuel quantity monitoring capability, and if > so why did you > install the Van's gages? Also, if so, are the gages and the > EIS connected in > parallel to the original senders. Thanks. > > Harry Crosby > Pleasanton, California > RV-6, finish kit stuff > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gregory Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: GRT manifold pressure hookup
Date: Feb 21, 2001
I mounted it with Velcro. Pop-riveted 2 strips of Velcro to the rib and wrapped it around both ends of the box. Looks weird but the box is light and my pull test indicates it should be good for 10g+. I ran the rubber hose through the firewall and am also need to deal with the transition to the engine when I get my engine back. Regards, Greg Young RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) wiring & systems > > How are folks securing the manifold pressure box for the GRT > 4000 engine > monitor? There are no holes or mounting brackets on this little baby. > Also, how are you plumbing it? Are you using a standard > flare fitting into > the engine then transitioning somehow to the barb fitting of the unit? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: exhaust failure..high EGT's
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Thread-Topic: RV-List: exhaust failure..high EGT's Thread-Index: AcCcSSSTNlGFTBZMQ5+W51eNRvREKgAAK4EQ
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
> How about describing you EGT setup to us to help with ideas. > > What type and brand of system are you using? Audio Flight Avionics AV-10, 4 EGT's, 4 CHT's, probes are grounded-type Westach brand > How far down from the exhaust flange are the probes mounted. About 3 inches > Anything else that is "different" than other systems you've seen? Nope > Is it just one cylinder or all of them running high? The rear cylinders run slightly higher, but even the front cylinders run in the high 1400's > What do the plugs look like? They have a light brown color to them, just like they should be > I've always heard that the absolute # you see isn't really > critical, as different positions (vertically along the > exhaust) of the thermocouples will have great differences in > measurement. It's really the difference (delta) that is > important for trouble shooting. I haven't verified whether or not the engine monitor is really giving me accurate information at those temperatures. Yet. > I get the feeling that you probably would have burnt a piston > (just my opinion) by now if you really were running that hot. I've looked down into the plug holes, and all I've seen is some lead buildup on the face of the piston. No evidence of burning. The weird thing about my dilemma is my CHT's seem normal...320-370 range, #3 will hit 410 on takeoff; which seems to be normal in a RV. > I normally see 1375 when peaked at cruise on my O-360 A1A. I > would be worried about seeing an absolute #'s in the 1500's. > > BTW, I have Jet Hot 2000 deg coating on my Vetterman exhaust. > I would not do it again on a stainless ehaust (although I > would if it were mild steel). > > From what I've heard from welders, you can not reweld once > the coating has been applied. So if it breaks, I get to get > a new one. This comes from a gent on the field (who > fabricates stainless exhausts for EZ's) and has tried to repair such. > > It does look good though. Mine's a nice dull black color now. They did look nice prior to the first flight. > Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 165 hrs (still hurting from > Earnhardt's death) > O-360, Sensenich (83) > Simi Valley, SoCal > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Avery Tools - Support These Good People
From: Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
Date: Feb 21, 2001
02/21/2001 04:25:10 PM Yep, thats the Bob Avery I know. Just business as usual for them. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: exhaust failure..high EGT's
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Bob: My two cents from past RV experience. My last RV-6 when we were using the Toole exhaust systems they were failing at the juncture of the exhaust flanges and also where the two pipes connected at #4 cylinder. This would happen at about 50 hours. There were a lot of stories where #4 pipe fell off. Mine cracked at about 60 hours, what I did was remove all of the pipes and welded a fish mouth support at the base of the cylinder exhaust flange. After 400 hours no more cracks. The real secret is for the hangers supporting the pipe needs to be in the same plane as the engine so it can move with the engine. Your second question was most exhaust leaning max peak usually occurs at about 1400 degrees. When you lean the engine it will run smooth on either side of peak, but you really don't want to go above peak to the lean side. I like to lean to peak and then richen the mixture 25-50 degrees to stay on the rich side of peak to make sure I stay away for the danger of detonation, As it is possible to destroy the cylinder if you operate on the lean side too long. Sorry for the long post, but I spent my whole life looking at big round engines. Regards: Harvey Sigmon - RV-6AQB - (In the paint shop, finally) do not archive > [Original Message] > From: Bob Japundza <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> > To: > Date: 2/21/2001 11:49:35 AM > Subject: RV-List: exhaust failure..high EGT's > > > Bob Japundza > RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying > > > > > > --- Harvey Sigmon --- flyhars(at)earthlink.net --- EarthLink: It's your Internet. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jared Boone" <jboone(at)earfeast.com>
Subject: Alodine revelation...
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Perhaps this is common knowledge, but it wasn't for me... For those of you considering Alumiprep (acid etch) and Alodine (chromate conversion coating) for your plane, there's a way to avoid buying, handling and disposing of those chemicals yourself. You may be able to find a local outfit that will do the process for (what seems to me) a reasonable fee. Look in the Yellow Pages for companies specializing in "Metal Finishing" or "Anodizing". I got some ball-park estimates from a company called Sure Power Industries (http://www.surepower.com/finishing.html) in Tigard, Oregon. The salesman I spoke with said they charge $35 per lot (no matter how many pieces). On top of the lot fee, you pay either per-piece (for very small parts) or by how much of their tank rack you utilize. As an example, a 12"x12" sheet would cost about $1.50. A full rack (5ft x 2ft x 8.5ft) runs about $125. He also said parts with rivet or lightening holes are easier for them to work with (they'll hang those parts). They do not do any hand prep (filing or sanding -- no surprise), so you must bring parts in ready for the etch and conversion coating. Their turnaround is about two days usually (Boeing is keeping them very busy at the moment, so the wait is more like a week right now). They can also do priming, but I think I will do that myself a) because it's MUCH more expensive to have them do it, and b) they use a primer that may or may not be compatible with the topcoat I want to use. I don't see how I can have them Alodine skins. Since Sure Power uses a tank, I'd presume they'd have to Alodine both sides. And from what I understand, the conversion coating is fairly fragile -- I wouldn't want my outer skin surfaces only Alodined while I work with them for months (or years). I'm guestimating that my entire empennage (sans skins) will cost probably $60 to clean/etch/Alodine. While this is certainly more expensive than doing it myself, I get the peace of mind of knowing it was done by professionals (to Boeing/MIL specs), the time savings of not having to develop the expertise myself, and I have fewer toxic chemicals I have to buy/handle/breathe/explode/dispose of. Thoughts, opinions? Provided y'all don't talk me out of it, I will post my experiences to the list. - Jared Boone jboone(at)earfeast.com (RV-8 Empennage) P.S. I have no affiliation with Sure Power Industries, in case that wasn't obvious. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com>
Subject: RV Panel Visualization Tool
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Well, you didn't ask for it but you got it anyway. Through the magic of Instant messaging, Bill Vondane and I have collaborated on a web page that will allow you to play around with different panel scenarios. Using web magic you can move images of instruments around either an RV6 or RV8 panel and get an idea of how things might look. We've got a pretty good selection instruments to play with and we can always add more if there is the need to. This tool is not meant to replace Panel Planner, Autocad, Vision or any other tool out there. It's our way of trying to give a little something back to the RV list and have some fun also. RV8 Panel http://vondane.com/rv8a/rvpanel/ RV6 Panel http://www.bmnellis.com/rvpanel/ Enjoy yourself and let us know what you think. Mike & Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Instr Apch Speeds 6A w C/S
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Today in an effort to start regaining my long-lost instrument proficiency (lost due to too much building and not enough flying) I enlisted the aid of my trusty safety pilot and went up in the 6A. For starters my safety pilot asked me to demonstrate that I knew the power settings for a 500 fpm descent at approach speeds. Fair enough. It turned out I couldn't do it! I assumed approach speed in my 6A was 90K. I chose this because a) it seemed reasonable, b) I wanted an approach speed tabulated in the NOS charts, and c) 60K is too slow and 120K seems too fast. I have the Hartzell C/S prop that Van sells and an O360A1A. The prop has the usual prohibition against operation from 2000 to 2250 RPM. My problem was that at 90K and 500 fpm descent, I was right smack in the center of the prohibited band! I had set the RPM to 2300 for starters as I do for normal pattern work, but as I reduced MP to achieve 90K and 500 fpm descent, the prop could no longer servo and RPM decayed to within the prohibited band. Now I realize that a few seconds in the prohibited band is OK and it happens during each turn to base in the pattern. But in an instrument approach I'd be in the prohibited zone for several minutes -- say 5 or so for maneuvering to the FAF and then another 2 1/2 to 3 for the FAF to MAP. This does not seem OK. Now I know some 6/6A owners with C/S props fly instruments. My questions are, what power settings do you use and what speed do you fly the approach? Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 46 hours (all in severe clear VFR) Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 2001
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV Panel Visualization Tool
Mike and Bill, Very cool! And very useful. Only problem I could find is that it does not function when viewed with Netscape Communicator (tried v. 4.7 and 6.0) It works as advertised under Internet Explorer 5. Dunno if this is intentional or not. Jeff Point -6 wings Milwaukee, WI ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com>
Subject: HVLP GUN
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Here's a sale on one at Harbor Freight. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=43430&cid=79 0755 Greg Tanner RV-9A Empennage SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net>
Subject: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist
Date: Feb 21, 2001
I recently recall a webpage or file that dictates everything I need to have accomplished, and what paperwork to have done before final inspection. Anyone know where that is? Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB)Arizona http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Finishing Up ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV Panel Visualization Tool
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Oh no....the -4 is being left out? Ack....now I really fell abandoned. :-( Bill -4 wings. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 6:09 PM Subject: RV-List: RV Panel Visualization Tool > > Well, you didn't ask for it but you got it anyway. Through the magic of > Instant messaging, Bill Vondane and I have collaborated on a web page > that will allow you to play around with different panel scenarios. > Using web magic you can move images of instruments around either an RV6 > or RV8 panel and get an idea of how things might look. We've got a > pretty good selection instruments to play with and we can always add > more if there is the need to. > > This tool is not meant to replace Panel Planner, Autocad, Vision or any > other tool out there. It's our way of trying to give a little > something back to the RV list and have some fun also. > > RV8 Panel http://vondane.com/rv8a/rvpanel/ > RV6 Panel http://www.bmnellis.com/rvpanel/ > > Enjoy yourself and let us know what you think. > > Mike & Bill > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
"Bill VonDane (E-mail)"@matronics.com
Subject: RV Panel Visualization Tool
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Hey Bill and Mike! What's this? Discriminating against us lowly RV-4 builders? I already have my panel done...it's just the principle of the thing! Major :-) for those who don't understand my sarcastic wit. -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 -----Original Message----- From: Mike Nellis [mailto:mnellis(at)peoplepc.com] Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 3:09 PM To: RV-List Subject: RV-List: RV Panel Visualization Tool Well, you didn't ask for it but you got it anyway. Through the magic of Instant messaging, Bill Vondane and I have collaborated on a web page that will allow you to play around with different panel scenarios. Using web magic you can move images of instruments around either an RV6 or RV8 panel and get an idea of how things might look. We've got a pretty good selection instruments to play with and we can always add more if there is the need to. This tool is not meant to replace Panel Planner, Autocad, Vision or any other tool out there. It's our way of trying to give a little something back to the RV list and have some fun also. RV8 Panel http://vondane.com/rv8a/rvpanel/ RV6 Panel http://www.bmnellis.com/rvpanel/ Enjoy yourself and let us know what you think. Mike & Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Subject: Re: Tow Bar
> > Ken Barto makes a good one, but I recommend the heavy duty one for > > regular use. Ken is listed in the Yeller Pages under JAK's > > Products. I have Ken's light or medium one (can't remember which). It used to bend all the time when I tried to use it to turn the nose wheel while pushing the plane backwards via the prop hub. The tow bar just wasn't strong enough. I ended up riveting a big piece of aluminum from the "T" handle all the way down to the "U" saddle that clamps the wheel. Ugly, but it works. Tim ****** Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a ****** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: Alodine revelation...
Date: Feb 21, 2001
> I'm guestimating that my entire empennage (sans skins) will cost probably > $60 to clean/etch/Alodine. While this is certainly more expensive than > doing it myself, I get the peace of mind of knowing it was done by > professionals (to Boeing/MIL specs), the time savings of not having to > develop the expertise myself, and I have fewer toxic chemicals I have to > buy/handle/breathe/explode/dispose of. > > Thoughts, opinions? Provided y'all don't talk me out of it, I will post my > experiences to the list. > > - Jared Boone > jboone(at)earfeast.com > (RV-8 Empennage) Jared, This process sounds like it would yield a very high quality coating. A couple of downsides however are that it would add considerable time to the building process over the life of the project with transportation and all, you'd also probably feel like redoing many parts that you end up modifying as you assemble them, and you still need to deal with the skins. Why not just use one of the self-etching primers? On the other hand, you could do it for your empennage and then decide if you think it's worth it as you get into your wings and fuselage... you have the option of changing your mind then. Randy Lervold RV-8, #80500, finishing details www.rv-8.com Home Wing VAF ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "BERNIE KERR" <KERRJB(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Tow Bar(bending problems)
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Same problem my neighbor had with his. My simple one that I made from Home Depot parts has not shown and tendancy to bend when you are backing the airplane in soft turf. Bernie Kerr, 6A flying , SE Fla ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 7:45 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Tow Bar > > > > Ken Barto makes a good one, but I recommend the heavy duty one for > > > regular use. Ken is listed in the Yeller Pages under JAK's > > > Products. > > I have Ken's light or medium one (can't remember which). It used to > bend all the time when I tried to use it to turn the nose wheel while > pushing the plane backwards via the prop hub. The tow bar just > wasn't strong enough. I ended up riveting a big piece of aluminum > from the "T" handle all the way down to the "U" saddle that clamps > the wheel. Ugly, but it works. > > Tim > > ****** > Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA > RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 > http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a > ****** > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV Panel Visualization Tool
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Ah good... We need some panel dimensions for an RV3, RV4, and RV-9... Width at the bottom of the panel will do... No discrimination intended... -Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Van Artsdalen, Scott Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 5.32 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: RV Panel Visualization Tool Hey Bill and Mike! What's this? Discriminating against us lowly RV-4 builders? I already have my panel done...it's just the principle of the thing! Major :-) for those who don't understand my sarcastic wit. -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 -----Original Message----- From: Mike Nellis [mailto:mnellis(at)peoplepc.com] Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 3:09 PM To: RV-List Subject: RV-List: RV Panel Visualization Tool Well, you didn't ask for it but you got it anyway. Through the magic of Instant messaging, Bill Vondane and I have collaborated on a web page that will allow you to play around with different panel scenarios. Using web magic you can move images of instruments around either an RV6 or RV8 panel and get an idea of how things might look. We've got a pretty good selection instruments to play with and we can always add more if there is the need to. This tool is not meant to replace Panel Planner, Autocad, Vision or any other tool out there. It's our way of trying to give a little something back to the RV list and have some fun also. RV8 Panel http://vondane.com/rv8a/rvpanel/ RV6 Panel http://www.bmnellis.com/rvpanel/ Enjoy yourself and let us know what you think. Mike & Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Paul, I don't remember where the website is but the paperwork you will need is: 1) The Aircraft's Registration 2) FAA Form 8130-6, Application for Airworthiness Certificate 3) FAA Form 8130-12, Eligibility Statement (must be notarized) 4) Your Aircraft Logbook with the following statement (or something similiar): "I have inspection this aircraft in accordance with a yearly condition inspection and have found it to be in a condition for safe operation", Signature and your SSN, and the word "Builder". You do not have to have the repairman's certificate for the initial sign-off. 5) A current weight and balance. 6) A test flight program. 7) A three view sketch, drawing, or photograph 8) The data plate (while not paperwork it must be there). 9) And FAA Form 8610-2, Application for Airman's Certificate. I hope this helps. Mike Robertson RV-8A N809RS >From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: "Rv-List(at)Matronics. Com" >Subject: RV-List: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist >Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 17:27:43 -0700 > > > I recently recall a webpage or file that dictates everything I need to >have > accomplished, and what paperwork to have done before final inspection. > Anyone know where that is? > > > Paul Besing > RV-6A (197AB)Arizona > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing > Finishing Up > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: Internally regulated alternators
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Someone was kind enough to tell me before but I have since lost the email so perhaps someone can tell me again. I have the internally regulated alternator that Bart Lablonde uses. Someone told me how to hook it up to the idiot light but I can't remember now. One side of the light goes to the alternator and the other side goes to +12 or ground? -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Subject: Re: Instr Apch Speeds 6A w C/S
In a message dated 2/21/01 3:52:46 PM Pacific Standard Time, dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes: << I have the Hartzell C/S prop that Van sells and an O360A1A. The prop has the usual prohibition against operation from 2000 to 2250 RPM. My problem was that at 90K and 500 fpm descent, I was right smack in the center of the prohibited band! I had set the RPM to 2300 for starters as I do for normal pattern work, but as I reduced MP to achieve 90K and 500 fpm descent, the prop could no longer servo and RPM decayed to within the prohibited band. Now I realize that a few seconds in the prohibited band is OK and it happens during each turn to base in the pattern. But in an instrument approach I'd be in the prohibited zone for several minutes -- say 5 or so for maneuvering to the FAF and then another 2 1/2 to 3 for the FAF to MAP. This does not seem OK. Now I know some 6/6A owners with C/S props fly instruments. My questions are, what power settings do you use and what speed do you fly the approach? >> My personal take on this is that it is a non-issue. You are not "continuously" operating in this rpm zone. You are not creating rated thrust in this rpm zone at these speeds in the RV airframes. Further, the prohibited rpm zone is 2000 to 2250 not because the whole range is sensitive, it is likely because the offensive resonant frequency occurs somewhere around 2125 rpm. The manufacturer bilaterally extended the range to provide a safety band and to account for wide variations in the accuracy of the typical mechanical tachs of the time. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Subject: Re: exhaust failure..high EGT's
In a message dated 2/21/01 3:01:06 PM Pacific Standard Time, flyhars(at)earthlink.net writes: << My two cents from past RV experience. My last RV-6 when we were using the Toole exhaust systems they were failing at the juncture of the exhaust flanges and also where the two pipes connected at #4 cylinder. >> Actually, for those searching for data on these failures, they are on the Tolle (not Toole) exhaust systems. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BSEckstein(at)cs.com
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Subject: Re: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist
Just call your local FSDO and they will send you a packet. Brian Eckstein ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net>
Subject: Re: Manual Elevator Trim
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Bernie, Why don't you do what I did, use a low range differential press. switch to automatically switch your trim servo into low speed when above a certain airspeed (in my case-120MPH). TheD/P switch ties into the pitot and static lines. It works great. Steve Ave incorporated this into his 8 also. Bill RV-8 N48WD ----- Original Message ----- From: "BERNIE KERR" <KERRJB(at)email.msn.com> Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 7:13 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Manual Elevator Trim > > Hi Jack, > > When I did 60WM, originally ordered manual trim. Changed to electric to > eliminate the console, which is a good idea. I have not been really > satisfied with the electric. If you slow it down to where ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Subject: 6 vs 6a
I will be at the point soon of ordering my fuselage. I have NO tail wheel time, but I think the 6 looks much much better. My original intention was to build a 6, get some tail time (endorsement) and fly. After putting so much work into my project I hate the thought of tearing it up. What are the opinions of you tailwheelers? Yes, I know insurance would be cheaper on a 6a and they fly the same once in the air. I can't help the fact, although I hate it, I am leaning now toward a 6a. Thanks Guys, Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: Re: Instr Apch Speeds 6A w C/S
Date: Feb 21, 2001
> > I have the Hartzell C/S prop that Van sells and an O360A1A. The prop has > the usual prohibition against operation from 2000 to 2250 RPM. > Dennis, where does one find this information? Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN 6A ------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net>
Subject: Re: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Are these forms available online, or do I need to go to a FSDO to get them? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 6:17 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist > > Paul, > > I don't remember where the website is but the paperwork you will need is: > > 1) The Aircraft's Registration > 2) FAA Form 8130-6, Application for Airworthiness Certificate > 3) FAA Form 8130-12, Eligibility Statement (must be notarized) > 4) Your Aircraft Logbook with the following statement (or something > similiar): "I have inspection this aircraft in accordance with a yearly > condition inspection and have found it to be in a condition for safe > operation", Signature and your SSN, and the word "Builder". You do not have > to have the repairman's certificate for the initial sign-off. > 5) A current weight and balance. > 6) A test flight program. > 7) A three view sketch, drawing, or photograph > 8) The data plate (while not paperwork it must be there). > 9) And FAA Form 8610-2, Application for Airman's Certificate. > > I hope this helps. > > Mike Robertson > RV-8A N809RS > > >From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >To: "Rv-List(at)Matronics. Com" > >Subject: RV-List: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist > >Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 17:27:43 -0700 > > > > > > I recently recall a webpage or file that dictates everything I need to > >have > > accomplished, and what paperwork to have done before final inspection. > > Anyone know where that is? > > > > > > Paul Besing > > RV-6A (197AB)Arizona > > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing > > Finishing Up > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 6 vs 6a
Date: Feb 22, 2001
Bob, In my humble opinion, I say BUILD WHAT YOU REALLY WANT. If you build a -6A just because it's easier to control on the ground or because of insurance reasons, you won't be happy. There are a lot of compromises that must be made (I'd like a CS prop, but I really can't afford the purchase or maintenance costs), but if you don't like the design of your entire airplane, you can't go back. This applies to most other things in life too. Maybe you should try some tailwheel time to see if you would like to fly that configuration. Jim Bower St. Louis, MO RV-6A N143DJ Wings From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: 6 vs 6a Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 21:02:17 EST -- RV-List message posted by: Bobpaulo(at)aol.com I will be at the point soon of ordering my fuselage. I have NO tail wheel time, but I think the 6 looks much much better. My original intention was to build a 6, get some tail time (endorsement) and fly. After putting so much work into my project I hate the thought of tearing it up. What are the opinions of you tailwheelers? Yes, I know insurance would be cheaper on a 6a and they fly the same once in the air. I can't help the fact, although I hate it, I am leaning now toward a 6a. Thanks Guys, Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 2001
From: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: RV Panel Visualization Tool
Netscape 4.76 won't work, Internet Explorer 5.50.4522.1800 works perfectly and using Paint Shop Pro 7 you can print what you create. Thanks guys, great work, Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 2001
From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist
Paul Besing wrote: > > > Are these forms available online, or do I need to go to a FSDO to get them? > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 6:17 PM > Subject: Re: RV-List: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist > > > > > Paul, > > > > I don't remember where the website is but the paperwork you will need is: > > > > 1) The Aircraft's Registration > > 2) FAA Form 8130-6, Application for Airworthiness Certificate > > 3) FAA Form 8130-12, Eligibility Statement (must be notarized) > > 4) Your Aircraft Logbook with the following statement (or something > > similiar): "I have inspection this aircraft in accordance with a yearly > > condition inspection and have found it to be in a condition for safe > > operation", Signature and your SSN, and the word "Builder". You do not > have > > to have the repairman's certificate for the initial sign-off. > > 5) A current weight and balance. > > 6) A test flight program. > > 7) A three view sketch, drawing, or photograph > > 8) The data plate (while not paperwork it must be there). > > 9) And FAA Form 8610-2, Application for Airman's Certificate. > > > > I hope this helps. > > > > Mike Robertson > > RV-8A N809RS > > > > >From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> > > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > >To: "Rv-List(at)Matronics. Com" > > >Subject: RV-List: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist > > >Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 17:27:43 -0700 > > > > > > > > > I recently recall a webpage or file that dictates everything I need to > > >have > > > accomplished, and what paperwork to have done before final inspection. > > > Anyone know where that is? > > > > > > > > > Paul Besing > > > RV-6A (197AB)Arizona > > > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing > > > Finishing Up > > > > > > > > > > for the forms, try http://search.bts.gov/ntl/query.html?col=dotbot&qp=site%3Afaa.gov+site%3Ajccbi.gov&qs=&qc=dotbot&pw=100%25&ws=0&fs=&qt=8130-6&qm=0&ql=&st=11&nh=10&lk=1&rf=0 If that doesn't work, try http://www.faa.gov Type in the form # you want & then scroll through the selections until you see FAA Flight Standards - Forms Download Page click that & download the one you need. I just did it about 2 minutes ago. Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 2001
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist
Don't know if this link will have everything you are looking for, but maybe it will be helpful: http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/register.html Sam Buchanan (RV-6) "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal ================== Paul Besing wrote: > > > I recently recall a webpage or file that dictates everything I need to have > accomplished, and what paperwork to have done before final inspection. > Anyone know where that is? > > Paul Besing > RV-6A (197AB)Arizona > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing > Finishing Up ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 2001
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: exhaust failure..high EGT's
--- Bob Japundza wrote: > > > > How about describing you EGT setup to us to help with ideas. > > > > What type and brand of system are you using? > > Audio Flight Avionics AV-10, 4 EGT's, 4 CHT's, probes are > grounded-type Westach brand > > > How far down from the exhaust flange are the probes mounted. > > About 3 inches > > > Anything else that is "different" than other systems you've seen? > > Nope > > > Is it just one cylinder or all of them running high? > > The rear cylinders run slightly higher, but even the front > cylinders run in the high 1400's > > > What do the plugs look like? > > They have a light brown color to them, just like they should > be > > > I've always heard that the absolute # you see isn't really > > critical, as different positions (vertically along the > > exhaust) of the thermocouples will have great differences in > > measurement. It's really the difference (delta) that is > > important for trouble shooting. > > I haven't verified whether or not the engine monitor is > really > giving me accurate information at those temperatures. Yet. > > > > I get the feeling that you probably would have burnt a piston > > (just my opinion) by now if you really were running that hot. > > I've looked down into the plug holes, and all I've seen is > some > lead buildup on the face of the piston. No evidence of burning. > > The weird thing about my dilemma is my CHT's seem > normal...320-370 range, #3 will hit 410 on takeoff; which seems to be > normal in a RV. > > > I normally see 1375 when peaked at cruise on my O-360 A1A. I > > would be worried about seeing an absolute #'s in the 1500's. > > > > BTW, I have Jet Hot 2000 deg coating on my Vetterman exhaust. > > I would not do it again on a stainless ehaust (although I > > would if it were mild steel). > > > > From what I've heard from welders, you can not reweld once > > the coating has been applied. So if it breaks, I get to get > > a new one. This comes from a gent on the field (who > > fabricates stainless exhausts for EZ's) and has tried to repair > such. > > > > It does look good though. > > Mine's a nice dull black color now. They did look nice prior > to > the first flight. > > > Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 165 hrs (still hurting from > > Earnhardt's death) > > O-360, Sensenich (83) > > Simi Valley, SoCal I am using the RMI microMonitor with a switch to all 4 cylinders. I typically run at least 760 - 800 C (1400 - 1472 F) or more in cruise. At higher altitudes, I can lean to 830-860 C (1525-1580 F). I lean on full power climb to have about no less than 700 C (1292 F) and no more than 720 C (1328 F). Lycoming says that peak power is 100 F of peak. At the temperatures I run at, I will keep it about 60 C rich of peak. If you have a copy of the Cessna Pilot Association September 2000 issue, turn to page 5147 and read the article "How Engine Controls Affect Timing". To sum the article up, if you are leaning rich of peak, you are advancing the timing. Mike Busch (he wrote the article) show how if you do not lean enough, you can get detnotaion and higher EGT temperatures. His graphs and data were taken at the GAMI engine test facility. My probes are 2 or 3 inches from the exhaust flange. The numbers you get will vary with the instrument and probe location. My question would be what temperature do you peak at when you have are full throttle, full RPM and lean for peak EGT? I almost always run at full throttle in cruise and will pull the prop back to reduce noise and engine wear. Typically I cannot get more than 23 inches above 8,000 and will run 2300 to 2600 depending on how much of a hurry and fuel I wish to burn. 23 square is my favorite power setting and it only burns 7 GPH above 7,500 when leaned to almost peak (820 C) and yields 160 KTAS. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 766+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices. http://auctions.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Subject: Re: 6 vs 6a
Date: Feb 21, 2001
> > I will be at the point soon of ordering my fuselage. I have NO tail wheel > time, but I think the 6 looks much much better. My original intention was to > build a 6, get some tail time (endorsement) and fly. After putting so much > work into my project I hate the thought of tearing it up. What are the > opinions of you tailwheelers? Yes, I know insurance would be cheaper on a 6a > and they fly the same once in the air. I can't help the fact, although I hate > it, I am leaning now toward a 6a. Thanks Guys, Bob > Bob, Tailwheel airplanes are not really harder but they are different and somewhat less forgiving. Almost any pilot could learn to fly one. To be sure though, it would be a real good idea to get a tailwheel checkout now. That will give you the information you need. I know it may not be easy to find a suitable instructor and airplane but if you have to travel a little and take some time off won't it be worth it to feel confident enough to be able to build that beautiful 6. If you are really leaning toward the 6A it doesn't sound like a problem though. I do have first hand experience with someone that could not learn to fly a taildragger. I ran into him when I was RV-6 shopping before I finally decided to build. He was not a pilot at all and had completed a pretty nice RV-6. At this point he found he could not learn to land it, hence the reason for it being for sale. I also met a fellow who was a high time pilot who turned his RV-6A over on the first flight, so having a nose gear does not preclude the possibility of damaging an airplane. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP Flying http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 2001
From: Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: 6 vs 6a
Bob, Flying a tailwheel isn't difficult, just some training and practice and the RV6 is one of the easiest taildraggers I've ever flown. By the way, my wife learned to fly about 5 years ago in a Citabria and has never flown a nosewheeler. She now flies her Mustang II which is a LOT more difficult than an RV. Dave 6 in So.Cal Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > I will be at the point soon of ordering my fuselage. I have NO tail wheel > time, but I think the 6 looks much much better. My original intention was to > build a 6, get some tail time (endorsement) and fly. After putting so much > work into my project I hate the thought of tearing it up. What are the > opinions of you tailwheelers? Yes, I know insurance would be cheaper on a 6a > and they fly the same once in the air. I can't help the fact, although I hate > it, I am leaning now toward a 6a. Thanks Guys, Bob > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fran Malczynski" <ebafm(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: 10,000 Items to Finish
Date: Feb 21, 2001
As I work my way through the 10,000 items required to finish my RV, I keep coming across nagging little questions that won't leave me be. For instance, I read somewhere that the firesleeve ends need to be sealed. I can't remember where I read this but I looked at the fuel hose that was shipped with my Bart's 0360 and sure enough the ends are sealed. If anyone else is sealing their firesleeve, what are you using? Hi temp RTV? On the question of firesleeve. I've seen installations where every hose was firesleeved and I've seen others where only the fuel lines were firesleeved. Van's manual says only the fuel lines need to be firesleeved. Any opinions on this? Continuing the firesleeve thread, can I use safety wire to secure the ends of the firesleeve or do I spring for those stainless firesleeve straps? My #4 tefzel wire coming from my alternator comes to within 1.25 inches of my front crossover exhaust pipe. Can I leave this be or should I put some firesleeve around the wire or add a heatshield in this area? Any and all responses appreciated. Thanks Fran Malczynski Olcott, NY RV6 - N594EF (finishing the 10,000 items) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca>
Subject: Re: Internally regulated alternators
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Scott and all I am going to attempt to reply to this from memory so if I get it slightly wrong, I'm sorry in advance. I have the idiot light hooked up on my four. I use a fairly large red light and it functions very well as a master switch reminder light. To get the light to fuction properly, ie on when the engine is not running and off when the engine starts and the alternator is doing its thing properly, it is necessary to run a hot wire to the light that will cause it to illuminate when the master is turned on. The wire to the other side of the light goes to the alternator. When the alternator is not turning this acts as the ground. Once the alternator begins producing electricty, power is sent to the light through this wire as well. The light no longer is grounded and goes out. If the alternator fails, the light becomes grounded again and alerts you to the failure. I think this is how I wired it up in mine and its seems to work as advertised. Joe Hine RV4 C-FYTQ PS even with this light, I have managed to leave the master on twice. I have thought about hooking up a buzzer as well, but I think it would be too annoying those times when you have the master on to power up the radios etc. > > Someone was kind enough to tell me before but I have since lost the email so > perhaps someone can tell me again. I have the internally regulated > alternator that Bart Lablonde uses. Someone told me how to hook it up to > the idiot light but I can't remember now. One side of the light goes to the > alternator and the other side goes to +12 or ground? > > -- > Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA > Network Administrator > Union Safe Deposit Bank > 209-946-5116 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 2001
From: Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: Manual Elevator Trim
It doesn't seem like the armrest would be a very convenient place for the trim since your left hand will usually be on the stick (at least mine is) and you'd have to shuffle hands to trim or reach over with your right hand. Dave Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote: > > Jack, your trim lever in the arm rest sounds like a good idea. You could > use a Van's throttle quadrant with just one lever. Would make a nice > smoothly tensioned trim mechanism. You would sure want to protect it so you > could not inadvertantly bump it. That could be real bad at 200MPH. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "baremetl" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: Albuquerque FBO's
Date: Feb 21, 2001
Can anyone in the Albuquerque area recommend an FBO at the big airport (ALB). I'm flying in for a ski vacation and need to rent a car and leave the plane for a week. Or would one of the smaller airports ( Coronado or Double Eagle ???) have rental cars available? Thanks in advance. Ivan Haecker ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: RV Panel Visualization Tool
Date: Feb 21, 2001
No Bill, we would never intentionally leave out the -3 -4 or the -9. We just need someone to pass along the dimensions of those panels to us. Remember, Bill and I whipped this up in a little over a day. Full of coffee and running on an adrenalin high that we didn't want to lose, we might have missed a few things that we'll try to rectify. My heartfelt apologies to Matt for neglecting his Fuel Flow monitor (can I use the word FuelScan?) We'll fix that tomorrow. Mike Nellis Stinson 108-2 N9666K RV-6 N699BM (res) Gooping up the tanks Plainfield, IL (LOT) http://bmnellis.com > > Oh no....the -4 is being left out? Ack....now I really fell abandoned. > :-( > > Bill > -4 wings. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> > To: "RV-List" > Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 6:09 PM > Subject: RV-List: RV Panel Visualization Tool > > > > > > Well, you didn't ask for it but you got it anyway. Through the magic of > > Instant messaging, Bill Vondane and I have collaborated on a web page > > that will allow you to play around with different panel scenarios. > > Using web magic you can move images of instruments around either an RV6 > > or RV8 panel and get an idea of how things might look. We've got a > > pretty good selection instruments to play with and we can always add > > more if there is the need to. > > > > This tool is not meant to replace Panel Planner, Autocad, Vision or any > > other tool out there. It's our way of trying to give a little > > something back to the RV list and have some fun also. > > > > RV8 Panel http://vondane.com/rv8a/rvpanel/ > > RV6 Panel http://www.bmnellis.com/rvpanel/ > > > > Enjoy yourself and let us know what you think. > > > > Mike & Bill > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: RV Panel Visualization Tool
Date: Feb 21, 2001
You're welcome Robert, We didn't think to test it with Netscape but obviously the JavaScript and Netscape just don't like each other. Mike Nellis Stinson 108-2 N9666K RV-6 N699BM (res) Gooping up the tanks Plainfield, IL (LOT) http://bmnellis.com > > Netscape 4.76 won't work, Internet Explorer 5.50.4522.1800 works perfectly and using Paint Shop Pro > 7 you can print what you create. > Thanks guys, great work, > Bob > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 2001
From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Manual Elevator Trim
Dave, My plan is to have my right hand on the stick and left throttle and so a centrally located trim would entail hand swapping. Eric had a good point about not bumping the trim. I'll keep that in mind. I haven't built the armrest yet so still time to work it out. Ed Holyoke ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Bristol" <bj034(at)lafn.org> Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 7:42 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Manual Elevator Trim > > It doesn't seem like the armrest would be a very convenient place for the trim > since your left hand will usually be on the stick (at least mine is) and you'd > have to shuffle hands to trim or reach over with your right hand. > > Dave > > Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote: > > > > > Jack, your trim lever in the arm rest sounds like a good idea. You could > > use a Van's throttle quadrant with just one lever. Would make a nice > > smoothly tensioned trim mechanism. You would sure want to protect it so you > > could not inadvertantly bump it. That could be real bad at 200MPH. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Instr Apch Speeds 6A w C/S
Date: Feb 21, 2001
> I have the Hartzell C/S prop that Van sells and an O360A1A. The prop has > the usual prohibition against operation from 2000 to 2250 RPM. I have just combed through my Lycoming Operator's Manual and Hartzell Owner's Manual and can not find any reference to this prohibition. Where is it specified? Ross Mickey O360 A1A and Hartzell HC-C2YK-1BF F 7666A-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Instr Apch Speeds 6A w C/S
Date: Feb 21, 2001
> > I have the Hartzell C/S prop that Van sells and an O360A1A. The prop has > > the usual prohibition against operation from 2000 to 2250 RPM. > > > > Dennis, where does one find this information? > Okay, big breath: http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgMakeModel.nsf/0/ 049af0a4847bb68b852567120043adb2/$FILE/p-920.pdf. All of the FAA Type Certificate Data Sheets can be found on the FAA site, at http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rghtml.nsf/htmlmed ia/make_model_selection.html Note that the stupid email program will probably break the above links into multiple lines; you'll probably need to reassemble them to get to the doc. The documents can be somewhat difficult to decipher -- there can be a number of entries that LOOK like they're the one you're looking for but are not. Also the PDF conversion leaves something to be desired -- the lines don't all match up correctly in the Key. Just be patient, and get a copy directly from the FAA if in doubt. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 22, 2001
Subject: Re: 10,000 Items to Finish
In a message dated 2/21/01 7:41:03 PM Pacific Standard Time, ebafm(at)yahoo.com writes: << On the question of firesleeve. I've seen installations where every hose was firesleeved and I've seen others where only the fuel lines were firesleeved. Van's manual says only the fuel lines need to be firesleeved. Any opinions on this? >> My personal opinion is that if the line contains anything that supports a flame it should be firesleeved. Oil is also a fuel. I'm sure this could go into the primer vs no primer/trigear vs tailwheel/wheel landing vs threepoint/right throttle vs left throttle/gascolator vs filter/aluminum fitting vs steel fitting/analog vs digital gauges/oil cooler door vs none/(insert other contentious and intractable issue here) file. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca>
Subject: Re: Instr Apch Speeds 6A w C/S
Date: Feb 22, 2001
----- Original Message ----- From: Randall Henderson <randallh(at)home.com> Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 10:41 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Instr Apch Speeds 6A w C/S > > > > I have the Hartzell C/S prop that Van sells and an O360A1A. The prop > has > > > the usual prohibition against operation from 2000 to 2250 RPM. > > > Am setting up my 6A for instrument flight but will be some time before first flight. 90 Knots sounds like a good speed, thats what I use with a Cherokee Six. However I set the prop to 2500 rpm for approach. It is then set for a go-around at limits should that be necessary and may keep your prop out of caution range while it is riding the fine pitch stop on final approach. George McNutt Langley, B.C. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2001
From: John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Subject: Drilling holes in wing rib flanges
A question for the assembled multitudes... I was starting to follow the directions given by Frank "Bunny" van der Hulst in his construction notes, where I will drill the holes in the wing rib flanges that go against the main spar...he (and others) drill the holes in the flanges for both the leading edge/tank ribs and the main ribs by putting the ribs on a flat surface, matching up the flanges so the ribs are aligned as they will be when finally installed, and drilling the holes so they match. Just curious...I'm not 100% confident in my ability to drill the holes in the main spar straight and true enough to match both sets of flanges...would I be better off just drilling the holes in the leading edge/tank rib flanges, and leaving the holes in the main rib flanges to be drilled when I drill the main spar? Semper Fi John RV-6 (a'drillin' them holes...millyuns and millyuns of holes...) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "BERNIE KERR" <KERRJB(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Manual Elevator Trim
Date: Feb 22, 2001
HI Bill, Sounds like a neat idea. Where did you buy your switch ? Bernie ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net> Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 8:56 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Manual Elevator Trim > > Bernie, > > Why don't you do what I did, use a low range differential press. switch to > automatically switch your trim servo into low speed when above a certain > airspeed (in my case-120MPH). TheD/P switch ties into the pitot and static > lines. It works great. Steve Ave incorporated this into his 8 also. > > Bill RV-8 N48WD > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "BERNIE KERR" <KERRJB(at)email.msn.com> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 7:13 AM > Subject: Re: RV-List: Manual Elevator Trim > > > > > > Hi Jack, > > > > When I did 60WM, originally ordered manual trim. Changed to electric to > > eliminate the console, which is a good idea. I have not been really > > satisfied with the electric. If you slow it down to where > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Drilling holes in wing rib flanges
Date: Feb 22, 2001
John, First of all, you don't drill the tank ribs to the spar at all. They are drilled to the tank baffle plate. As to the main ribs, drill the mounting holes in their forward flanges first. I located the outboard main rib and lined up the skins with it, then located the rest of the main ribs as close to their stations as possible, given the limitations of the pre-drilled holes in the skins. After they were clamped in place, I drilled their forward flanges up through the spar. Then, I used the false skin method to line up the leading edge ribs with the main ribs, then back drilled their flanges (again up through the spar). Those LE ribs will magically line up with the holes in the LE skin, so don't worry about that. The worst problem I had was the fact that due to the pre-drilled holes, some main ribs were off-station. Some of them were so far off that I needed to grind down some nuts. In one case, a rib was off in the other direction, so I needed to put a spacer between the rib web and the mounting angle. Good luck. Jim Bower St. Louis, MO RV-6A Wings >From: John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Drilling holes in wing rib flanges >Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 05:52:52 -0600 > > >A question for the assembled multitudes... > >I was starting to follow the directions given by Frank "Bunny" van der >Hulst in his construction notes, where I will drill the holes in the wing >rib flanges that go against the main spar...he (and others) drill the holes >in the flanges for both the leading edge/tank ribs and the main ribs by >putting the ribs on a flat surface, matching up the flanges so the ribs are >aligned as they will be when finally installed, and drilling the holes so >they match. > >Just curious...I'm not 100% confident in my ability to drill the holes in >the main spar straight and true enough to match both sets of >flanges...would I be better off just drilling the holes in the leading >edge/tank rib flanges, and leaving the holes in the main rib flanges to be >drilled when I drill the main spar? > >Semper Fi >John >RV-6 (a'drillin' them holes...millyuns and millyuns of holes...) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Airbatix(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 22, 2001
Subject: Re: Instr Apch Speeds 6A w C/S
i keep hearing of this rpm range restriction, too...i have the van's hartzell hc-c2yk-1bf compact hub constant speed prop and the book that came with it doesn't speak of this restriction..or does it?...is there an advisory out?...is the advisory from lycoming?? thanx paul m/rv6a/180/cs/ready for inspection/n632m ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2001
From: phil <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Subject: Re: High CHT
REPOST for future e-searching Subject: RV-List: exhaust failure..high EGT's Thread-Topic: exhaust failure..high EGT's Thread-Index: AcCcIpsC6cklvW5wRjW3NRXd6Hl10w= From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> Over the weekend, I had the #3 crossover pipe fail on my Vetterman exhaust. I was pretty close to my airport but other that a few moments of excitement trying to figure out what was going on the expedited landing was a non-event. Sure made a bunch of noise and the cowl vibrated quite a bit. Good thing there was no fire because the way the weld broke exhaust gases were pointed right at the carb. I spoke to Larry this morning as he was out of town for several days, and out of the 4000+ exhaust systems he's built, there's only one that has failed in the same manner mine has, in the area along the weld where the #4 crossover pipe connects to the #3 exhaust on the right side. The exhaust has 85 hours on it. When I pulled the cowl the pipe fell to the floor--it completely broke off. So, guys don't get your shorts in a wad and flood Larry or Van's or whoever with phone calls about this...it's truly an anomaly. I noticed a small crack along the weld some time ago, and have had others look at the tiny hairline crack that appeared. Both people told me to not worry about it; just keep an eye on it, if there's evidence of exhaust leaking out the crack then worry about it. I made a mistake in not listening to myself and had it repaired. So, on now to the cause. I think the failure was metallurgical in nature; either the pipe was not stress relieved correctly or there were faults in the composition of the stainless. I don't think the weld itself was bad, or caused by high EGT's (which, by the way, I discovered during this ordeal.) I agreed to remove the exhaust and send it to Larry for repairs. It sucks to be down again for another week and a half, but surely he'll fix what's broken and make it better. On topic I brought up in my conversation with Larry was having Jet-Hot coat my exhaust...His response was pretty much like 'hell no' based on opinions he got on the subject from a metallurgist with an extensive background in turbines. Now, on to my question. In discussing this failure with several people, unbeknownst previously to me I am running excessively high EGT's Typically in cruise my hottest cylinders run around 1520, burning 9.2-9.5 gal/hr (75% @ 3000ft) leaned out to roughness then backing off a little. CHT's run in the 320-370 range. My engine is a carbureted O-360, Electroair ignition, and runs very smooth in cruise. Two of the opinions I have received so far indicate a carburetor jetting problem, or maybe a problem with the 100LL I'm getting. According to the source of the latter, some manufacturers of avgas are using increased amounts of toluene in their fuel to combat lead fouling, and the side-effect is hotter EGT's. I'm not sure if I buy into that one. Seems to me I have a carb problem. With that being said in my long diatribe here, is there a way to check the jetting of the carb without sending it off to precision airmotive? I've thumbed through the carb overhaul manual and really don't want to 'fix what's not broke' in doing a complete overhaul. It is easy to check and adjust the jetting without dismantling the carb, if jetting can be a probable cause of my high EGT's? Bob Japundza RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2001
Subject: Prop and Engine RPM Restrictions
From: "Denis (Bum) Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net>
on 2/21/01 23:46, Ross at rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com wrote: > >> I have the Hartzell C/S prop that Van sells and an O360A1A. The prop has >> the usual prohibition against operation from 2000 to 2250 RPM. > > I have just combed through my Lycoming Operator's Manual and Hartzell > Owner's Manual and can not find any reference to this prohibition. Where is > it specified? > > Ross Mickey > O360 A1A and Hartzell HC-C2YK-1BF F 7666A-4 > > Apparently the fellow who did us all a great favor and researched this subject is not monitoring the list. What a surprise. Anyway the "restriction" is found in neither the Lyc stuff nor the prop stuff. It is on a FAA site. FAA requires all prop and engine combos to be tested. The results of those tests are reflected in the charts. For the O-360 A1A that Van sells along with the Hartzell C?S for it, you should have a placard: "Avoid continuous operation between 2000 and 2250 RPM." Other combos are different. My plane has the warning and I heed it; however, when I turn base, I quit looking at the RPM. Hope this helps. D Walsh D Walsh ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 22, 2001
Subject: Re: FW: virus alert
In a message dated 2/21/01 12:29:59 PM, rowena(at)seanet.com writes: >Subject: FW: virus alert > > >>> >>A new virus has just been discovered that has been classified by > >>> >>> Microsoft (www.microsoft.com) and by McAfee (www.mcafee.com) as > >>> >>> the most destructive ever! This virus was discovered yesterday > >>> >>> afternoon by McAfee and no vaccine has yet been developed. This >virus > >>> >>> simply destroys Sector Zero from the hard disk, where vital > >>information > >>> >>> for its functioning are stored. This virus acts in the following > >>manner: > >>> >>It > >>> >>> sends itself automatically to all contacts on your list with the > >>title > >>> "A > >>> >>> Virtual Card for You". As soon as the supposed virtual card is > >>opened, > >>> >>> the computer freezes so that the user has to reboot. When the > >>> >>> ctrl+alt+del keys or the reset button are pressed, the virus destroys > >>> >>> Sector Zero, > >>> >>> thus permanently destroying the hard disk. Yesterday in just a few > >>hours > >>> >>> this virus caused panic in New York, according to news broadcast >by > >>> >>> CNN (www.cnn.com). This alert was received by an employee of > >>> >>> Microsoft itself. So don't open any mails with subject "A Virtual > >>Card > >>> >for > >>> >>> You". As soon as you get the mail, delete it. Please pass on this > >>mail > >>> to > >>> >>> all > >>> >>> your friends. Forward this to everyone in your address book. I would > >>> >>> rather receive this 25 times than not at all. Also: Intel announced > >>that > >>> >a > >>> >>> new and very destructive virus was discovered recently. If you > >>receive > >>> >>> an email called > >>> >>> "An Internet Flower For You", do not open it. Delete it right away! > >>This > >>> >>> virus removes all dynamic link libraries(.dll files) from > >>> >>> your computer. Your computer will not be able to boot up. SEND THIS > >>TO > >>> >>> EVERYONE ON YOUR CONTACT LIST!! > >>> >>> > >>> >> > >>> > > >> > >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 22, 2001
Subject: Re: Gear Leg Wobble
Eric, Would not reccomend tack welding it! If you have any slop in the gear leg it will not hold it. The taper pin is the best solution for sure. Watch the alignment as you ream to size. I fixed this problem for a guy by reaming the hole in the gear leg and pressing in a plug. Then welded doublers on the socket and then redrilled the assbly. Stewart RV4 Colo. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2001
From: "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: 10,000 Items to Finish
Fran, I used firesleeves on my oil lines as well. Best wishes, Jack Abell Fran Malczynski wrote: > > As I work my way through the 10,000 items required to finish my RV, I keep > coming across nagging little questions that won't leave me be. > > For instance, I read somewhere that the firesleeve ends need to be sealed. I > can't remember where I read this but I looked at the fuel hose that was > shipped with my Bart's 0360 and sure enough the ends are sealed. If anyone > else is sealing their firesleeve, what are you using? Hi temp RTV? > > On the question of firesleeve. I've seen installations where every hose was > firesleeved and I've seen others where only the fuel lines were firesleeved. > Van's manual says only the fuel lines need to be firesleeved. Any opinions > on this? > > Continuing the firesleeve thread, can I use safety wire to secure the ends > of the firesleeve or do I spring for those stainless firesleeve straps? > > My #4 tefzel wire coming from my alternator comes to within 1.25 inches of > my front crossover exhaust pipe. Can I leave this be or should I put some > firesleeve around the wire or add a heatshield in this area? > > Any and all responses appreciated. > > Thanks > > Fran Malczynski > Olcott, NY > RV6 - N594EF (finishing the 10,000 items) > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Alodine revelation...
From: pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com
Date: Feb 22, 2001
17, 2001) at 02/22/2001 11:20:44 AM I have been using local platers for Alodining since completion of the tail. It far quicker and less messy, though more expensive. In the Boston area, I pay $50-75 per lot. I had an aerospace plater Alodine both wing and fuselage skins. In several cases, I had the plater paint the skins as well. I have not access to a paint booth large enough to paint skins and the Boston weather is often not amenable to painting outside. I highly recommend using plating companies for this work. Dean Pichon Arlington, MA RV-4 "Jared Boone" (at)matronics.com on 02/21/2001 06:07:00 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com cc: Subject: RV-List: Alodine revelation... Perhaps this is common knowledge, but it wasn't for me... For those of you considering Alumiprep (acid etch) and Alodine (chromate conversion coating) for your plane, there's a way to avoid buying, handling and disposing of those chemicals yourself. You may be able to find a local outfit that will do the process for (what seems to me) a reasonable fee. Look in the Yellow Pages for companies specializing in "Metal Finishing" or "Anodizing". I got some ball-park estimates from a company called Sure Power Industries (http://www.surepower.com/finishing.html) in Tigard, Oregon. The salesman I spoke with said they charge $35 per lot (no matter how many pieces). On top of the lot fee, you pay either per-piece (for very small parts) or by how much of their tank rack you utilize. As an example, a 12"x12" sheet would cost about $1.50. A full rack (5ft x 2ft x 8.5ft) runs about $125. He also said parts with rivet or lightening holes are easier for them to work with (they'll hang those parts). They do not do any hand prep (filing or sanding -- no surprise), so you must bring parts in ready for the etch and conversion coating. Their turnaround is about two days usually (Boeing is keeping them very busy at the moment, so the wait is more like a week right now). They can also do priming, but I think I will do that myself a) because it's MUCH more expensive to have them do it, and b) they use a primer that may or may not be compatible with the topcoat I want to use. I don't see how I can have them Alodine skins. Since Sure Power uses a tank, I'd presume they'd have to Alodine both sides. And from what I understand, the conversion coating is fairly fragile -- I wouldn't want my outer skin surfaces only Alodined while I work with them for months (or years). I'm guestimating that my entire empennage (sans skins) will cost probably $60 to clean/etch/Alodine. While this is certainly more expensive than doing it myself, I get the peace of mind of knowing it was done by professionals (to Boeing/MIL specs), the time savings of not having to develop the expertise myself, and I have fewer toxic chemicals I have to buy/handle/breathe/explode/dispose of. Thoughts, opinions? Provided y'all don't talk me out of it, I will post my experiences to the list. - Jared Boone jboone(at)earfeast.com (RV-8 Empennage) P.S. I have no affiliation with Sure Power Industries, in case that wasn't obvious. **** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one of Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may contain confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.**** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 6 vs 6a
Date: Feb 22, 2001
>Bob, > >Tailwheel airplanes are not really harder but they are different and >somewhat less forgiving. Almost any pilot could learn to fly one. To be >sure though, it would be a real good idea to get a tailwheel checkout now. >That will give you the information you need. I know it may not be easy to >find a suitable instructor and airplane but if you have to travel a little >and take some time off won't it be worth it to feel confident enough to be >able to build that beautiful 6. If you are really leaning toward the 6A it >doesn't sound like a problem though. > >I do have first hand experience with someone that could not learn to fly a >taildragger. I ran into him when I was RV-6 shopping before I finally >decided to build. He was not a pilot at all and had completed a pretty >nice >RV-6. At this point he found he could not learn to land it, hence the >reason for it being for sale. I also met a fellow who was a high time >pilot >who turned his RV-6A over on the first flight, so having a nose gear does >not preclude the possibility of damaging an airplane. > >Larry Pardue >Carlsbad, NM > I concur with Larry. Great New Mexican minds think alike. ;) I had some time in a -6A before completing my -8 and found it was NOT as directionally stable as I thought it would be. With no direct link to the rudder cables, nor any shimmy dampener, it can and will wander off the runway if you let it. So, with that said, why not build the airplane that you truly LOVE to look at? Don't let the lack of tailwheel time deter you from your dream. Get some dual in a Citabria as I did, and you'll find it's not as bad as some would have you believe. I had a total of thirteen hours in a combination of Citabria, CAP10 and RV8 time, dual, before flying my -8 for the first time. It was most enjoyable and I'm very glad I did it. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD 175 hrs. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DThomas773(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 22, 2001
Subject: Re: 6 vs 6a
Hi again Bob. Someone on the list could probably help you out with an intoduction to a "taildragger". Where are located. If in California give me a yell. Dennis Thomas RV9-A Emp ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com>
Subject: Prop and Engine RPM Restrictions
Date: Feb 22, 2001
I too recalled an restriction, and found it under a Hartzell document I got from Brad Huelsman @ Hartzell (937) 778-4392, it read: "Stabilized operation is prohibited above 25" of MP between 2300 and 2550, and below 15"MP above 2600RPM" This restriction is not significant during normal operations" I just took delivery of a shiny new 0-360A1A yesterday. Tampa builders: Shooting for 3/10 "Engine hannging Party" Doug Gardner -8A #80717 0-360/CS FWF Palm Harbor Florida -----Original Message----- From: Denis (Bum) Walsh [mailto:deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net] Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 9:19 AM Subject: RV-List: Prop and Engine RPM Restrictions on 2/21/01 23:46, Ross at rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com wrote: > >> I have the Hartzell C/S prop that Van sells and an O360A1A. The prop has >> the usual prohibition against operation from 2000 to 2250 RPM. > > I have just combed through my Lycoming Operator's Manual and Hartzell > Owner's Manual and can not find any reference to this prohibition. Where is > it specified? > > Ross Mickey > O360 A1A and Hartzell HC-C2YK-1BF F 7666A-4 > > Apparently the fellow who did us all a great favor and researched this subject is not monitoring the list. What a surprise. Anyway the "restriction" is found in neither the Lyc stuff nor the prop stuff. It is on a FAA site. FAA requires all prop and engine combos to be tested. The results of those tests are reflected in the charts. For the O-360 A1A that Van sells along with the Hartzell C?S for it, you should have a placard: "Avoid continuous operation between 2000 and 2250 RPM." Other combos are different. My plane has the warning and I heed it; however, when I turn base, I quit looking at the RPM. Hope this helps. D Walsh D Walsh ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Albuquerque FBO's
Date: Feb 22, 2001
>From: "baremetl" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: "rv-list" >Subject: RV-List: Albuquerque FBO's >Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 22:26:59 -0600 > > >Can anyone in the Albuquerque area recommend an FBO at the big airport >(ALB). I'm flying in for a ski vacation and need to rent a car and leave >the plane for a week. Or would one of the smaller airports ( Coronado or >Double Eagle ???) have rental cars available? Thanks in advance. >Ivan Haecker > Ivan, I'm based at Double Eagle and you can get a rental car there. But I would advise calling ahead to assure one will be available. Call Sandy at the AeroWest Fuel desk at (505)352-0292 or toll free at 1-877-384-9813. Fuel is currently $2.35 self serve, or get it pumped for you for $1.99 from the West Mesa Aviation FBO. Quite a fuel price war going on! ABQ is certainly more convenient for ease of access to hotels and the heart of Albuquerque. I don't have any FBO experience there. Double Eagle is out in the middle of the west mesa with nothing much around it. It's a 25 minute drive via I-40 into the city. Coronado is completely falling apart and I would not recommend it. I'm talking potholes in the taxiway here. Sad. Have fun in Albuquerque! Brian Denk RV8 N94BD 175 hrs. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Instr Apch Speeds 6A w C/S
Date: Feb 22, 2001
PS There is a lot in the RV-List archives about this too. Search for "rpm & restriction & hartzell". Randall ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Don Winters <dwinters(at)acraline.com>
Subject: Re: High CHT
Date: Feb 22, 2001
Just wanted to add a little more fuel to the fire on exhaust coatings: I work for a company that manufactures land-based turbine components for General Electric. They coat the insides of the combustion liners that fire into the turbine blades. These operate at around 1900 deg F or more. It's referred to as TBC (Thermal Barrier Coating) by Praxair. They can do this process in Indianapolis. I'm not sure what they would charge to coat an exhaust system. Also note that the turbine components are made of exotic nickel based alloys (hasteloy and nimonic). I haven't gotten as far as to research how well it works on stainless steel. When I get a little closer to engine installation, I'll have a better idea of whether I'm going to use it or not. Don Winters (wings) -----Original Message----- From: phil [mailto:pcondon(at)mitre.org] Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 8:37 AM Subject: RV-List: Re: High CHT On topic I brought up in my conversation with Larry was having Jet-Hot coat my exhaust...His response was pretty much like 'hell no' based on opinions he got on the subject from a metallurgist with an extensive background in turbines. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2001
From: Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)ticnet.com>
Subject: Re: Manual Elevator Trim
Jack, my -6A has two fuel gages snugged side-by-side just forward of the fuel selector...a 45 degree tab then tilts forward and upward to grab the manual trim knob. Works quite well and is intuitive after a few hours use. I like the fuel gages adjacent to the selector. Throttle is on a subpanel below the instrument panel. Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas -6A flying past 320 hours Jack wrote: > > > The feel and simplicity of the manual elevator vernier is great but I'm > trying to eliminate the center console normally used to mount it and the > engine controls. Is it possible to mount all of these controls on a > recessed subpanel hung from the instrument panel without stick > interference? Does anybody have a sketch or photo showing how they did > it? Can the manual trim knob be reduced in diameter? > > Jack H. > RV-6A - panel > jgh(at)iavbbs.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Biddle" <dbiddle(at)wans.net>
Subject: EI fuel gauge LED dimmer
Date: Feb 22, 2001
I am using a Nuckols dimmer on my instrument panel. The EI fuel gauge FL-2R analog LED's get dimmer as all the other lighting gets brighter with increased voltage from the dimmer. I called EI, expecting to send back the unit for repair but they said that is how it is supposed to work. When I said it was backwards from all the rest, they offered to send a dimmer for the fuel gauge, which they did. (no charge) It is their model CP-1 which is priced at $29. It decreases voltage as the knob is turned to the right, which causes the LED's to increase in brightness. Just a heads up, so you don't have to go back and add this control later like I did, after I thought everything was done in the panel. Dave Biddle RV6A Fuselage, engine, instruments, systems done Phoenix AZ. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Biddle" <dbiddle(at)wans.net>
Subject: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist
Date: Feb 22, 2001
You can get the forms at: http://www.provide.net/~pratt/ambuilt/forms.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist
Date: Feb 22, 2001
I honestly don't know if these are available online. But if you call your local FSDO they will mail them to you. And if you are going to use a DAR he will have these also. Mike Robertson RV-8A >From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: Re: RV-List: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist >Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 19:26:08 -0700 > > >Are these forms available online, or do I need to go to a FSDO to get them? > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> >To: >Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 6:17 PM >Subject: Re: RV-List: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist > > > > > > Paul, > > > > I don't remember where the website is but the paperwork you will need >is: > > > > 1) The Aircraft's Registration > > 2) FAA Form 8130-6, Application for Airworthiness Certificate > > 3) FAA Form 8130-12, Eligibility Statement (must be notarized) > > 4) Your Aircraft Logbook with the following statement (or something > > similiar): "I have inspection this aircraft in accordance with a yearly > > condition inspection and have found it to be in a condition for safe > > operation", Signature and your SSN, and the word "Builder". You do not >have > > to have the repairman's certificate for the initial sign-off. > > 5) A current weight and balance. > > 6) A test flight program. > > 7) A three view sketch, drawing, or photograph > > 8) The data plate (while not paperwork it must be there). > > 9) And FAA Form 8610-2, Application for Airman's Certificate. > > > > I hope this helps. > > > > Mike Robertson > > RV-8A N809RS > > > > >From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> > > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > >To: "Rv-List(at)Matronics. Com" > > >Subject: RV-List: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist > > >Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 17:27:43 -0700 > > > > > > > > > I recently recall a webpage or file that dictates everything I need >to > > >have > > > accomplished, and what paperwork to have done before final >inspection. > > > Anyone know where that is? > > > > > > > > > Paul Besing > > > RV-6A (197AB)Arizona > > > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing > > > Finishing Up > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2001
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: EI fuel gauge LED dimmer
Dave Biddle wrote: > > > I am using a Nuckols dimmer on my instrument panel. > The EI fuel gauge FL-2R analog LED's get dimmer as all the other lighting > gets brighter with increased voltage from the dimmer. > I called EI, expecting to send back the unit for repair but they said that > is how it is supposed to work. When I said it was backwards from all the > rest, they offered to send a dimmer for the fuel gauge, which they did. (no > charge) > It is their model CP-1 which is priced at $29. It decreases voltage as the > knob is turned to the right, which causes the LED's to increase in > brightness. > > Just a heads up, so you don't have to go back and add this control later > like I did, after I thought everything was done in the panel. > > Dave Biddle > RV6A Fuselage, engine, instruments, systems done > Phoenix AZ. If memory serves me, the rational for the "backwards" dimming protocol is so you can wire the EI dimmer wire to your nav light circuit. When the nav lights are turned on, the EI gauge will dim. This is the setup I have on my plane and it works well; the amount of dimming of the EI unit in my RV-6 seem just right with no additional dimmers required. Sam Buchanan "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2001
From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: 6 vs 6a
Bob, I highly recommend reading an article on Doug's web site about tailwheel vs. nosegear. I pretty sure it's written by Ken Scott of Van's. Good reading. See it at: http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/articles/nosewheelvstailwheel_anon.htm Like Larry and Brian said, flying a RV-6 is a lot of fun. I kinda compare landing to playing golf. Somedays it's great, somedays.....I wanna kill something. If you ask me right now, I'd say 1, build what you really desire. That's what I did. There was no way anybody was going to talk me out of building a tailwheel RV. You put a lot of effort into making this great little flying machine. Better to build what you really want. That being said, sometimes I wonder if I did the right thing by building the taildragger. Somedays, I love it, somedays.... Last week the SoCal group went up to Harris Ranch in the Central Valley of CA. When we got there the winds were 90 deg to the runway and gusting. 2 of us tailwheel airplanes got down on the first try, but it wasn't pretty. The other one had to go around once, and the other finally got down on the third try. Very entertaining. I was wishing for a nose gear on short final. I also went out last night to shoot some night landings. I was all over the place. Just frustrating at times. Sometimes you get it all right, and sometimes you loose the handle on it and it takes awhile to get back. And then again, somedays it makes you feel like the greatest pilot in the world (ok, so I live in a small world). Make your decision carefully, and try not to let the macho attitude in while making the decision. You'll live with it a while. Like Brian said, go get some tailwheel time to help make the decision. Good luck with the decision. Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 165 hrs O-360, Sensenich (83) Simi Valley, SoCal From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Wed, Feb 21, 2001 6:59 PM Subject: RV-List: 6 vs 6a I will be at the point soon of ordering my fuselage. I have NO tail wheel time, but I think the 6 looks much much better. My original intention was to build a 6, get some tail time (endorsement) and fly. After putting so much work into my project I hate the thought of tearing it up. What are the opinions of you tailwheelers? Yes, I know insurance would be cheaper on a 6a and they fly the same once in the air. I can't help the fact, although I hate it, I am leaning now toward a 6a. Thanks Guys, Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2001
From: N13eer(at)AOL.COM
Subject: Re: 6 vs 6a
In a message dated Wed, 21 Feb 2001 9:06:18 PM Eastern Standard Time, Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM writes: I will be at the point soon of ordering my fuselage. I have NO tail wheel time, but I think the 6 looks much much better. My original intention was to build a 6, get some tail time (endorsement) and fly. After putting so much work into my project I hate the thought of tearing it up. What are the opinions of you tailwheelers? Yes, I know insurance would be cheaper on a 6a and they fly the same once in the air. I can't help the fact, although I hate it, I am leaning now toward a 6a. Thanks Guys, Bob Bob, When I started building my 8 I had not taken a single lesson. I know I could learn to fly faster than I could build. When it came time to order the fuselage I had the same delema your having. However, Van's made up my mind for me since the 8A was not in production. I know have 15 hours in a Citabria and feel fairly confortable but not ready to fly the 8 yet. I have flown and landed a 6A from the right seat and would not give a much thought to flying an 8A. Over all I am est. that it is going to cost around $1000 of extra training to get up to speed with a tailwheel over what it would cost for tri gear. I hope this is money well spent as I feel I have learned a lot. But if I were to do it again I can think of better places to put the grand (panel). Hope this helps Alan Kritzman Cedar Rapids, IA RV-8 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2001
From: Chuck Weyant <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com>
Subject: Re: Spar Attach Angles RV9
Okay, riveted the gas tank spar attach angles to the gas tank baffle. Set it on the jigged wing spar, clecoed everything down and match drilled "in assembly" the wing spar and tank attach angles (z bars). Now I've riveted the leading edge on. Next I am to install the tank along with half the screws and bolts. I am starting with the spar-to-attach-angle-nutplates. Nothing matches. I can't get the bolts into the nutplates. When riveting the nutplates I made sure everything was aligned and secure befor drilling and riveting. I don't understand how so many could be off alignment. Some align, perhaps three or four per tank, but most are off by 1/32 or so. 1. What went wrong? 2. What to do? Chuck Weyant ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 22, 2001
Subject: Re: Spar Attach Angles RV9
In a message dated 2/22/01 11:24:01 AM, chuck(at)chuckdirect.com writes: >Okay, riveted the gas tank spar attach angles to the gas tank baffle. >Set it on >the jigged wing spar, clecoed everything down and match drilled "in assembly" >the wing spar and tank attach angles (z bars). Now I've riveted the leading >edge >on. Next I am to install the tank along with half the screws and bolts. >I am >starting with the spar-to-attach-angle-nutplates. Nothing matches. I >can't get >the bolts into the nutplates. When riveting the nutplates I made sure >everything was aligned and secure befor drilling and riveting. I don't >understand how so many could be off alignment. Some align, perhaps three >or >four per tank, but most are off by 1/32 or so. > >1. What went wrong? >2. What to do? > >Chuck Weyant > Chuck, Mine werent perfectly aligned when I went to put the tanks on either. I just put a nut driver in a cordless drill and "persuaded" them all in there. Everything looks fine now that the wings are completed. The countersunk screws didnt look like they wanted to line up either, I just started at the splice strip and worked inboard, they too look fine Kevin Shannon -9A starting to finish ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JusCash(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 22, 2001
Subject: Re: Albuquerque FBO's
I allways stop at Cutter in Aibuquerque or El Paso when I travel east from California. Gas is high but the service is great. They allways find me a hotel with the best rate and take me there and pick me up. The gear on the Bonanza failed to extend on one trip. They made room in the shop and had it repaired the next morning. I would rather pay more for gas and have good service than get stuck at a small airport with no services or facilities. Just one pilots choice. Cash Copeland RV6 Final Assy Oakland, Ca In a message dated 2/21/2001 8:25:07 PM Pacific Standard Time, baremetl(at)gvtc.com writes: > > Can anyone in the Albuquerque area recommend an FBO at the big airport > (ALB). I'm flying in for a ski vacation and need to rent a car and leave > the plane for a week. Or would one of the smaller airports ( Coronado or > Double Eagle ???) have rental cars available? Thanks in advance. > Ivan Haecker > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Moser" <moserr(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Inspection and various required forms
Date: Feb 22, 2001
Someone was looking for govt. forms and such for the inspection and certification of homebuilt aircraft. (Maybe my memory is failing me). The EAA member's only page has some good links, and I found this one too: http://www.alaska.faa.gov/jnufsdo/forms.htm Seems as though many forms are available there. Hope this helps. Bob Moser East Bethel, MN RV-8 Empennage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2001
From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
rv-list
Subject: RV8A: Parking brake valve.
Hi Folks I am about to order a parking brake valve for my -8A. I think I will go with the Van's unit. Can anybody enlighten me on pro's and con's, alternatives from, say, Wicks, who sells two different kinds.?? Any feedback is apriciated Gert -- is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: EI fuel gauge LED dimmer
Date: Feb 22, 2001
Dave, I have EI instruments on my panel too. I have two dimmer controls for the cockpit. One dimmer is for general panel flood lights, on their own switch. The second dimmer is for the EI instruments. I have it wired through the panel flood light toggle switch. It works as follows.... If the Panel Flood Light TOGGLE switch is in the OFF position, then the EI incadescent lights are off, and the EI Leds are at full intensity. If the Panel Flood Light TOGGLE switch is in the ON position, the the EI incadescent lights are on, and the #2 dimmer becomes active and controls the intensity of the EI leds (except for the red ones which are always at full intensity) From what I have seen, you wouldn't want to dim the EI incadescent lights even at night. You also wouldn't want to have the EI Leds at full intensity at night. I didn't see any use in having the EI dimmer functional when the panel flood lights are not on. Hope this helps, -Glenn Gordon I have the dimmer wired into my Nav ---- Original Message ----- From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 12:09 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: EI fuel gauge LED dimmer > > > Dave Biddle wrote: > > > > > > I am using a Nuckols dimmer on my instrument panel. > > The EI fuel gauge FL-2R analog LED's get dimmer as all the other lighting > > gets brighter with increased voltage from the dimmer. > > I called EI, expecting to send back the unit for repair but they said that > > is how it is supposed to work. When I said it was backwards from all the > > rest, they offered to send a dimmer for the fuel gauge, which they did. (no > > charge) > > It is their model CP-1 which is priced at $29. It decreases voltage as the > > knob is turned to the right, which causes the LED's to increase in > > brightness. > > > > Just a heads up, so you don't have to go back and add this control later > > like I did, after I thought everything was done in the panel. > > > > Dave Biddle > > RV6A Fuselage, engine, instruments, systems done > > Phoenix AZ. > > > If memory serves me, the rational for the "backwards" dimming protocol > is so you can wire the EI dimmer wire to your nav light circuit. When > the nav lights are turned on, the EI gauge will dim. > > This is the setup I have on my plane and it works well; the amount of > dimming of the EI unit in my RV-6 seem just right with no additional > dimmers required. > > Sam Buchanan > "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: Re: FW: virus alert
Date: Feb 22, 2001
Please ignore any messages regarding this hoax and do not pass on messages. Passing on messages about the hoax only serves to further propagate it. For more information check: http://service1.symantec.com/sarc/sarc.nsf/html/Virtual.Card.for.You.html <http://service1.symantec.com/sarc/sarc.nsf/html/Virtual.Card.for.You.html> -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 -----Original Message----- From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM [mailto:Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM] Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 7:08 AM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Re: FW: virus alert In a message dated 2/21/01 12:29:59 PM, rowena(at)seanet.com writes: >Subject: FW: virus alert > > >>> >>A new virus has just been discovered that has been classified by > >>> >>> Microsoft (www.microsoft.com) and by McAfee (www.mcafee.com) as > >>> >>> the most destructive ever! This virus was discovered yesterday > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2001
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Prop and Engine RPM Restrictions
> > >I too recalled an restriction, and found it under a Hartzell document I got >from Brad Huelsman @ Hartzell (937) 778-4392, it read: > >"Stabilized operation is prohibited above 25" of MP between 2300 and 2550, >and below 15"MP above 2600RPM" This restriction is not significant during >normal operations" > >I just took delivery of a shiny new 0-360A1A yesterday. > >Tampa builders: Shooting for 3/10 "Engine hannging Party" > >Doug Gardner -8A #80717 0-360/CS FWF >Palm Harbor Florida The limitation varies depending on which combination of prop and engine dash number you have. The limitations are found in the FAA Type Certificate Data Sheet (TCDS) for the propeller. The limitation quoted above is the first one in TCDS P-920. It is appropriate if you have a HC-C2YR hub with F7068 blades installed on a Lycoming IO-360-B1A, -B1B, -B1C, -B1D, -B1E, -B1F, -E1A, -F1A or O-360-A1A, -A1AD, -A1C, -A1D, -A1F, -A1G, -A1H, -A1LD with a diameter between 67 and 68 inches. I doubt this applies to many RV builders, as Van sells a different prop than this. I won't try to paste the link to the TCDS here, as it will be truncated, which confuses some people. There is a link to it in the Engine and Propeller section of my RV Links page, which is found at: http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks.html Once you click on the link from my RV Links page, you need to click on the PDF icon in the upper left corner of the page. I won't go into the reason for the limitations, or the possible hazard if they are ignored. As Randall said, there is good coverage in the archives. Take care, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt) Ottawa, Canada http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WLPMAP(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 22, 2001
Subject: RV6A tail kit for sale !
RV6A tail kit for sale. Decided to build 9A instead. Opened to inventory only. Reply offline at WLPMAP(at)AOL.COM Thanks Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net>
Subject: 2 speed elevator trim
Date: Feb 22, 2001
Bernie,James,Denis, and others The pressure switch that I used was a "Herga" obtained from Newark Electronics. I dont have the part # here but will look it up and report tomorrow. Around $30 as I recall. Since it is a SPST switch, it was necessary to use a 12V relay to get SPDT action but this did not add too much complication. In essence it provides 2 power feeds to the servo, one (below 120MPH ) is straight 12V, the other (above 120) inserts the speed reducer. Bill RV-8 N48WD ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2001
Subject: Re: Albuquerque FBO's
From: james freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net>
on 2/22/01 2:33 PM, JusCash(at)AOL.COM at JusCash(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > I allways stop at Cutter in Aibuquerque or El Paso when I travel east from > California. Gas is high but the service is great. They allways find me a > hotel with the best rate and take me there and pick me up. The gear on the > Bonanza failed to extend on one trip. They made room in the shop and had it > repaired the next morning. I would rather pay more for gas and have good > service than get stuck at a small airport with no services or facilities. > Just one pilots choice. > > Cash Copeland > RV6 Final Assy > Oakland, Ca Same experience here. I've had almost unbelievable service from Cutter in ElPaso, including finding me a (no notice) hotel room on one trip and fixing a mechanical problem in record time on another, allowing me to complete my trip to CA as planned in a single day. Good folks James Freeman ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net>
Subject: Re: 2 speed elevator trim
Date: Feb 22, 2001
>snip > In essence it provides 2 power feeds to the servo, > one (below 120MPH ) is straight 12V, the other (above 120) inserts the > speed reducer. > > Bill RV-8 N48WD > Do you have it installed with a Matronics speed reducer/relay or one of the MAC units? Stan Blanton RV-6 stanb(at)door.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2001
From: Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: 6 vs 6a
Alan, Think about how little a grand will buy for your panel and remember, it will be obsolete in about a year. You'll be enjoying the tailwheel experience for the rest of your flying career! Dave RV6 > > When I started building my 8 I had not taken a single lesson. I know I could learn to fly faster than I could build. When it came time to order the fuselage I had the same delema your having. However, Van's made up my mind for me since the 8A was not in production. I know have 15 hours in a Citabria and feel fairly confortable but not ready to fly the 8 yet. I have flown and landed a 6A from the right seat and would not give a much thought to flying an 8A. Over all I am est. that it is going to cost around $1000 of extra training to get up to speed with a tailwheel over what it would cost for tri gear. I hope this is money well spent as I feel I have learned a lot. But if I were to do it again I can think of better places to put the grand (panel). > > Hope this helps > Alan Kritzman > Cedar Rapids, IA > RV-8 > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 22, 2001
Subject: Re: RV8A: Parking brake valve.
In a message dated 2/22/01 3:02:43 PM Pacific Standard Time, gert(at)execpc.com writes: << I am about to order a parking brake valve for my -8A. I think I will go with the Van's unit. Can anybody enlighten me on pro's and con's, alternatives from, say, Wicks, who sells two different kinds.?? Any feedback is appreciated >> My opinion is that the Cleveland unit has the in and out ports in a position that is better suited to mounting on the firewall (I put mine on the 6A in the area normally reserved for the transition bracket from flex to hard line). -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2001
From: Ken Cantrell <kcflyrv(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Fuel and oil hoses
I'm considering using #111 stratoflex hoses for my fuel and oil lines. I'm planning on firesleeve for fuel lines (gasgolator to f.p. and from f.p. to carb). Does this sound like a reasonable idea? I want to be safe but I wasn't planning on firesleeve for oil and pressure lines (not near exhaust manifold). Precision Hose Technology is making them up for me at what I think is a very reasonable price. Ken Cantrell RV6 w/ 0360 A1A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: RV8A: Parking brake valve.
Date: Feb 22, 2001
I bought the valve from Van. It is simple to install but made out of a block of steel. It is not big but still has some weight. If I was doing it again I would look around for something similar made from a block of aluminum. I would be willing to pay a little more for less weight. Norman Hunger RV6A Delta BC > > I am about to order a parking brake valve for my -8A. > > I think I will go with the Van's unit. > > Can anybody enlighten me on pro's and con's, alternatives from, say, > Wicks, who sells two different kinds.?? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: rpflanze(at)iquest.net
Date: Feb 23, 2001
Subject: Re: Starting with the LASAR
I got an update from Unison this morning, the LASAR system does use both mags at start-up....BUT.... if the system detects a problem with either of the mags, it will prevent the system from starting the engine. So, if one mag goes bad in flight, the system will revert to manual mag mode and continue running until you shut down. From that point forward, the system will prevent you from re-starting the engine until you replace the bad mag. Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (120 hours) >OK thanks Randy. There was an article on AV Web about the LASAR, and the >guy said both mags are used during start. I'm using the keyed ignition that >Van's sells. > >Mike > >----- Original Message ----- >From: <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> >To: Michael J. Robbins >Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 4:10 AM >Subject: Re: RV-List: LASAR Ignition Problem (Long post) > > >> I kind of thought the same thing, but my right mag was just fine when I >was debugging >> the problem. Only the left mag was bad.........but not spark. I am using >a >> keyed ignition switch, but I removed the jumper wire which grounds the >right >> max during start per the instructions. I have a call into Unison this >morning. >> I will get the straight scoop and write you back. >> >> Randy >> >> >> >Randy; > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com>
Subject: Catto Props
Date: Feb 23, 2001
Listers, I've searched the archives, but there is not much about Catto Props other than he is a good guy, knows a lot, and his props are cheaper than a CS Hartzell. I'm considering a 3 blade Catto prop for an IO-360 6A. I talked to Craig and he said he can make the prop any way that I wanted. I can see from the Archives that he is well regarded and liked, however, I can't see if anybody really is happy with the prop. He is selling them, and apparently a number of "us" are buying them because he has a 12 week waiting list. The vast majority of the props he is selling for RVs are to those who are NOT considering a CS prop, but rather for a "replacement" for wood or a Sensench fixed pitch prop. For those not knowing, the Catto props are 2 or 3 blade, can be customized for the engine and performance wanted, and are composite. But, they are fixed pitch. My goal is speed rather than climb (no mountains in Florida). So, the big question.... Do I have Craig Catto build me a custom 3 blade "speed" prop, or get a CS Hartzel like everybody else? Lots of other issues, but lets leave $$$$ out of it. Is anybody out there using his prop who didn't buy it because it was cheaper than the CS Hartzell? Is there somebody who actually bought it because it would make their plane go faster? Has anybody put a Catto prop on and then switched over to a CS Hartzell because they were not satisfied? Jim, Tampa 6A, waiting for engine. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Starting with the LASAR
Date: Feb 23, 2001
Kind of eliminates the need to try a mid-air restart. Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A (spinner done) Niantic, CT >From: rpflanze(at)iquest.net >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Re: Starting with the LASAR >Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 07:33:35 est > > >I got an update from Unison this morning, the LASAR system does use both >mags >at start-up....BUT.... if the system detects a problem with either of the >mags, >it will prevent the system from starting the engine. > >So, if one mag goes bad in flight, the system will revert to manual mag >mode >and continue running until you shut down. From that point forward, the >system >will prevent you from re-starting the engine until you replace the bad mag. > > >Randy Pflanzer N417G >RV-6 (120 hours) > > > >OK thanks Randy. There was an article on AV Web about the LASAR, and the > >guy said both mags are used during start. I'm using the keyed ignition >that > > >Van's sells. > > > >Mike > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> > >To: Michael J. Robbins > >Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 4:10 AM > >Subject: Re: RV-List: LASAR Ignition Problem (Long post) > > > > > >> I kind of thought the same thing, but my right mag was just fine when I > >was debugging > >> the problem. Only the left mag was bad.........but not spark. I am >using > > >a > >> keyed ignition switch, but I removed the jumper wire which grounds the > >right > >> max during start per the instructions. I have a call into Unison this > >morning. > >> I will get the straight scoop and write you back. > >> > >> Randy > >> > >> > >> >Randy; > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Forsale" <rv8aforsale(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV8A Divorce Sale
Date: Feb 23, 2001
RV8A Divorce Sale RV Fans my pending divorce is forcing the sale of my RV8A project. I am losing both my home and workshop and will very soon lack the resources to work on my project. Enough praise of my wife's skills. What I have is an RV8A tail, wing and fuselage kits for sale. Tail complete except for fiberglass. Wing kit nearly complete ready for bottom skin riveting. Fuselage kit firewall, bulkheads and floor assembly done ready for installation into jig. It has electric trim elevator and aileron, adjustable rudder peddles and rear peddles (both at wife's insistence) and Duckworth landing lights from Van's in both wings. Don't want to start the primer wars but... I am of the alodine and epoxy primer camp; all parts have been treated that way. I am an A&P and aviation professional and the project has been built in a correct and airworthy manor. Checked Van's wed site today and have found the price for the basic kits is $12007 looking for a "fair, honest, and reasonable offer" to jump start someone into an 8A. Please contact me off list at (rv8aforsale(at)hotmail.com) My tools are not for sale, as I WILL start again once I am reestablished. Shafted in Ohio ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: C/S Spinner fitted
Date: Feb 23, 2001
Thanks to all for your suggetsions. We finished the spinner last night. We decided to put a 1/8" spacer plate between the front bulkhead attachment area and the front bulhead flang area. This required that we seperate the front bulkhead flang from the attachment area (front) and cut out a circular 1/8" ring to go between the now (2) peice front bulk head. We also installed (2) washers (1/8") between the prop hub and rear bulkhead. This still left us with a 1/8" gap between the rear bulkhead and the cowling. In retrospect if we had made sure that there was no interference between the prop blades and the rear bulkhead (by manually twisting them) before we drilled the holes in the spinner and bulkheads this would not have been required, only the installation of spacers. Thanks again for all the suggestions. Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A (spinner done - finishing up F/G work) Niantic, CT (Westerly airport) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Russ Camtz ?
Date: Feb 23, 2001
Does anyone know how to contact Russ Camtz? We are looking for info on the seat covering on his RV-6A that was included in the Yahoo picture group Randy P. provided. Thanks, Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A (spinner done) Niantic, CT ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel and oil hoses
Date: Feb 23, 2001
> > >I'm considering using #111 stratoflex hoses for my fuel and oil lines. I'm >planning on firesleeve for fuel lines (gasgolator to f.p. and from f.p. to >carb). Does this sound like a reasonable idea? I want to be safe but I >wasn't planning on firesleeve for oil and pressure lines (not near exhaust >manifold). Precision Hose Technology is making them up for me at what I >think is a very reasonable price. > >Ken Cantrell >RV6 w/ 0360 A1A > Ken, I used Stratoflex as well. I firesleeved both fuel and oil lines. Sleeving the fuel lines is a must, sleeving the oil lines is optional. At least that's the way I approached it. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Starting with the LASAR
Date: Feb 23, 2001
I have been told that if the LASAR brain-box dies, both mags will operate but starting will be impossible due to lack of impulse coupler. I have been advised not to try starting the engine if the LASAR is inop due to possible kickback. We have all that potential redundancy but cannot use it! I have also heard that Bart will supply a LASAR system with an impulse coupler mag. You could then start and fly if the LASAR goes out. If so, this would be the ideal configuration. Unison would not supply me with an impulse coupled mag on my Bart's O360A1A with LASAR, so I'll try Bart next. If anyone has better info on LASAR let's hear it! Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 46 hours Hampshire, IL C38 -----Original Message----- From: rpflanze(at)iquest.net <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> Date: Friday, February 23, 2001 7:08 AM Subject: RV-List: Re: Starting with the LASAR > >I got an update from Unison this morning, the LASAR system does use both mags >at start-up....BUT.... if the system detects a problem with either of the mags, >it will prevent the system from starting the engine. > >So, if one mag goes bad in flight, the system will revert to manual mag mode >and continue running until you shut down. From that point forward, the system >will prevent you from re-starting the engine until you replace the bad mag. > > >Randy Pflanzer N417G >RV-6 (120 hours) > > >>OK thanks Randy. There was an article on AV Web about the LASAR, and the >>guy said both mags are used during start. I'm using the keyed ignition that > >>Van's sells. >> >>Mike >> >>----- Original Message ----- >>From: <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> >>To: Michael J. Robbins >>Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 4:10 AM >>Subject: Re: RV-List: LASAR Ignition Problem (Long post) >> >> >>> I kind of thought the same thing, but my right mag was just fine when I >>was debugging >>> the problem. Only the left mag was bad.........but not spark. I am using > >>a >>> keyed ignition switch, but I removed the jumper wire which grounds the >>right >>> max during start per the instructions. I have a call into Unison this >>morning. >>> I will get the straight scoop and write you back. >>> >>> Randy >>> >>> >>> >Randy; >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 23, 2001
From: "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: Builder's Clubs?
Local Builder's Clubs? I am renewing the list of local builders clubs for the 21 Years of the RV-ator book. I have some, but I'm sure I'm missing others. I need to have the following info on each club: state (or country) city contact name contact phone number web site or contact e-mail Here is the list I have so far. Please write back (off list) if I am missing or need informaion about yours. Links for each will also go in the RV Specific Links page on Builder's Bookstore Alabama, Decatur (need phone number) California, Bay Area California, Los Angeles (need phone number) California, Sacramento (need web or e-mail Colorado, Denver (need web or e-mail) Connecticut (need city and phone number) Florida, Tampa Illinois, Chicago Kansas, Olathe Massachusetts, Boston (need name and phone number Michigan, Livoinia (need web or e-mail) Minnesota, Hudson, WI Missouri, St Charles (need phone and web/email) North Carolina, Advance North Carolina, Matthews (need web or e-mail) Oklahoma, Tulsa (need phone and web/e-mail Oregon, Portland Texas, Houston Texas, Lewisville Utah, Salt Lake (need web or e-mail) Canada, Kitchener, ON Canada, Surrey, BC (need phone) France, La Testa De Buch New Zealand, Pukekohe, (need web or e-mail Thanks, Andy Builder's Bookstore info(at)buildersbooks.com http://buildersbooks.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Starting with the LASAR
Date: Feb 23, 2001
Have you talked to Harry Fenton? Harry(at)unisonindustries.com Unless he is the source, I would not place much credence in impossible to start. Harry is the better source when it comes to LAZAR. Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh EAA Chapter 75 helping fellow aviators ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 9:25 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Starting with the LASAR > > I have been told that if the LASAR brain-box dies, both mags will operate > but starting will be impossible due to lack of impulse coupler. I have been > advised not to try starting the engine if the LASAR is inop due to possible > kickback. We have all that potential redundancy but cannot use it! > > I have also heard that Bart will supply a LASAR system with an impulse > coupler mag. You could then start and fly if the LASAR goes out. If so, > this would be the ideal configuration. Unison would not supply me with an > impulse coupled mag on my Bart's O360A1A with LASAR, so I'll try Bart next. > > If anyone has better info on LASAR let's hear it! > > Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 46 hours > Hampshire, IL C38 > > -----Original Message----- > From: rpflanze(at)iquest.net <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Friday, February 23, 2001 7:08 AM > Subject: RV-List: Re: Starting with the LASAR > > > > > >I got an update from Unison this morning, the LASAR system does use both > mags > >at start-up....BUT.... if the system detects a problem with either of the > mags, > >it will prevent the system from starting the engine. > > > >So, if one mag goes bad in flight, the system will revert to manual mag > mode > >and continue running until you shut down. From that point forward, the > system > >will prevent you from re-starting the engine until you replace the bad mag. > > > > > >Randy Pflanzer N417G > >RV-6 (120 hours) > > > > > >>OK thanks Randy. There was an article on AV Web about the LASAR, and the > >>guy said both mags are used during start. I'm using the keyed ignition > that > > > >>Van's sells. > >> > >>Mike > >> > >>----- Original Message ----- > >>From: <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> > >>To: Michael J. Robbins > >>Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 4:10 AM > >>Subject: Re: RV-List: LASAR Ignition Problem (Long post) > >> > >> > >>> I kind of thought the same thing, but my right mag was just fine when I > >>was debugging > >>> the problem. Only the left mag was bad.........but not spark. I am > using > > > >>a > >>> keyed ignition switch, but I removed the jumper wire which grounds the > >>right > >>> max during start per the instructions. I have a call into Unison this > >>morning. > >>> I will get the straight scoop and write you back. > >>> > >>> Randy > >>> > >>> > >>> >Randy; > >> > >> > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 23, 2001
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Builder's Clubs?
Hi Andy, You can put me down as the Boston, MA contact guy. I started Boston RV Builders last September and it's morphing into the VAF - New England Wing. Both names should probably be listed. My contact info is: Ken Balch 15 Magnolia Pointe Ashland, MA 01721-2528 508-231-8021 kbalch1(at)mediaone.net groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders Let me know if you need any other info. Regards, Ken Builder's Bookstore wrote: > > Local Builder's Clubs? > > I am renewing the list of local builders clubs for the 21 Years of the RV-ator > book. I have some, but I'm sure I'm missing others. > > I need to have the following info on each club: > state (or country) > city > contact name > contact phone number > web site or contact e-mail > > Here is the list I have so far. Please write back (off list) if I am missing or > need informaion about yours. Links for each will also go in the RV Specific > Links page on Builder's Bookstore > > Alabama, Decatur (need phone number) > California, Bay Area > California, Los Angeles (need phone number) > California, Sacramento (need web or e-mail > Colorado, Denver (need web or e-mail) > Connecticut (need city and phone number) > Florida, Tampa > Illinois, Chicago > Kansas, Olathe > Massachusetts, Boston (need name and phone number > Michigan, Livoinia (need web or e-mail) > Minnesota, Hudson, WI > Missouri, St Charles (need phone and web/email) > North Carolina, Advance > North Carolina, Matthews (need web or e-mail) > Oklahoma, Tulsa (need phone and web/e-mail > Oregon, Portland > Texas, Houston > Texas, Lewisville > Utah, Salt Lake (need web or e-mail) > Canada, Kitchener, ON > Canada, Surrey, BC (need phone) > France, La Testa De Buch > New Zealand, Pukekohe, (need web or e-mail > > Thanks, > Andy > Builder's Bookstore > info(at)buildersbooks.com > http://buildersbooks.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: rpflanze(at)iquest.net
Date: Feb 23, 2001
Subject: Re: Starting with the LASAR
>I have been told that if the LASAR brain-box dies, both mags >will operate but starting will be impossible due to lack of >impulse coupler. I have been advised not to try starting the >engine if the LASAR is inop due to possible kickback. We have >all that potential redundancy but cannot use it! That's one way to look at it Dennis, but I think the likelihood that the brains are going to die is very rare, at least according to Unison. Also, there is no need to worry about kickback if the LASAR is inop because there is no spark. The mags will not fire unless instructed by the "brains" to do so. If power is off due to a blown fuse, etc, the engine will not start even if both mags are fine. Now, all of the preceding description relates to STARTING the engine. If the engine is already running when a failure occurs, it works differently. If the brains die or a mag goes bad or both, the good magneto(s) will continue to provide spark in manual mode until the engine is shut down. In my case, I had two different problems with the mags that the LASAR system warned me about. The first one, the engine would not start at all because the left mag was failing to make breaker contact. If I only had manual mags, I would have found the problem one of two ways. Either it wouldn't have started because the bad mag was the one the impulse coupling, or I would have discovered that it wasn't working when I did my mag check at run up. Either way, the LASAR system prevented me from overlooking the problem. The second problem occurred when my left mag was producing lower than normal current. In this case the engine started and ran fine but the LASAR system warned me with a manual mode light. I don't how I could have caught this problem with manual magnetos, although the argument could be made that this problem is only inherent with the LASAR magnetos and not manual ones. I don't know enough about the problem to say for sure. So the redundancy of the LASAR system is designed to keep you flying once you're flying, but it keeps you on the ground when it detects a problem. I am not uncomforatble with that approach. Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (120 hours) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: rpflanze(at)iquest.net
Date: Feb 23, 2001
Subject: Re: Starting with the LASAR
Harry and John work side-by-side at Unison. I met both of them when I went up to have my problem diagnosed. I gathered from my meeting that John is handling a bulk of the LASAR questions at this point. John is also very good and very helpful. They both will be at the Unison booth at Sun-n-Fun. Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (120 hours) > >Have you talked to Harry Fenton? Harry(at)unisonindustries.com > >Unless he is the source, I would not place much credence in impossible to >start. Harry is the better source when it comes to LAZAR. > > >Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh >EAA Chapter 75 helping fellow aviators > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> >To: >Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 9:25 AM >Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Starting with the LASAR > > >> >> I have been told that if the LASAR brain-box dies, both mags will operate >> but starting will be impossible due to lack of impulse coupler. I have >been >> advised not to try starting the engine if the LASAR is inop due to >possible >> kickback. We have all that potential redundancy but cannot use it! >> >> I have also heard that Bart will supply a LASAR system with an impulse >> coupler mag. You could then start and fly if the LASAR goes out. If so, >> this would be the ideal configuration. Unison would not supply me with an >> impulse coupled mag on my Bart's O360A1A with LASAR, so I'll try Bart >next. >> >> If anyone has better info on LASAR let's hear it! >> >> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 46 hours >> Hampshire, IL C38 >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: rpflanze(at)iquest.net <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >> Date: Friday, February 23, 2001 7:08 AM >> Subject: RV-List: Re: Starting with the LASAR >> >> >> > >> >I got an update from Unison this morning, the LASAR system does use both >> mags >> >at start-up....BUT.... if the system detects a problem with either of the >> mags, >> >it will prevent the system from starting the engine. >> > >> >So, if one mag goes bad in flight, the system will revert to manual mag >> mode >> >and continue running until you shut down. From that point forward, the >> system >> >will prevent you from re-starting the engine until you replace the bad >mag. >> > >> > >> >Randy Pflanzer N417G >> >RV-6 (120 hours) >> > >> > >> >>OK thanks Randy. There was an article on AV Web about the LASAR, and >the >> >>guy said both mags are used during start. I'm using the keyed ignition >> that >> > >> >>Van's sells. >> >> >> >>Mike >> >> >> >>----- Original Message ----- >> >>From: <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> >> >>To: Michael J. Robbins >> >>Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 4:10 AM >> >>Subject: Re: RV-List: LASAR Ignition Problem (Long post) >> >> >> >> >> >>> I kind of thought the same thing, but my right mag was just fine when >I >> >>was debugging >> >>> the problem. Only the left mag was bad.........but not spark. I am >> using >> > >> >>a >> >>> keyed ignition switch, but I removed the jumper wire which grounds the >> >>right >> >>> max during start per the instructions. I have a call into Unison this >> >>morning. >> >>> I will get the straight scoop and write you back. >> >>> >> >>> Randy >> >>> >> >>> >> >>> >Randy; >> >> >> >> >> > >> > >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV8bldr" <RV8bldr(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Flush Rivet Help
Date: Feb 23, 2001
Listers: I remember reading on the list a while back a way to clean up any slight roughness around the head of flush rivets. I have started my HS skin riveting and have a few rivets that are functionally fine, but have not set perfectly flush. I know after prime/paint it will probably smooth out, but I would like to get them as good as I can. I have searched the archives, but can't find the post I want. I seem to remember someone had a way to easily "polish" the rivet head to a flush finish. Ring any bells with anyone? Russ Christopher RV-8 Emp SoCal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: Pro-Seal alternative
Date: Feb 23, 2001
> Norm, > > I saw the bit you wrote in the RVator (I have the "18 Years of...") back in > '97 regarding the alternative to ProSeal available from Aircraft Spruce (p/n > 09-38500 or 09-38510). I wrote Van's and asked them if they thought the > stuff was ok to use and they referred me back to you. > > Have you used it? If so, how is it working out? Thanks. Used it and loved it. I started with the kit from van so have tried both. If I were doing it again I would buy a bunch of the small kits from ACS. They end up being more money but the difference is that the ACS kits simplify the whole process. You don't have to worry about mixing the 10 to 1 perfectly (Vans kit) and there is much less toxic smell as everything is contained. Pro-seal has seriously bad nerve damaging toxins in it and I found the ACS kits vastly reduced my exposure to it. The ACS kits have an internal mixing mechanism that is hard to describe but is totally trick. This is what the airlines use. Down side is cost and if you go with Vans kit and need a second kit (I would have) you will always have some kicking around for all the other small jobs that it is recommended for. The ACS kits are a throw away at the end of the day. Keep all pro-seal type garbage out of your house/shop. At the end of your day clean your shop of all of this toxic waste; get it outside. Norman Hunger RV6A Delta BC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Seat Heating Pads ?
Date: Feb 23, 2001
There's a decent thread going on right now over at the AeroElectric List. > > Some aircraft have eating pads embedded in the seats to supplement heated > air. Is there a source for such pads ? Has anyone adapted automobile seat > heating pads for this purpose ? How much heat power do these pads provide ? > I put automotive heated seat pads into my leather seats. They don't work if you are doing thick woolen sheepskin but they work great with any thinner material. Mine have two settings, high, low and off. The kit includes a very nice lighted switch. The high setting uses 4 amps (per seat) and each seat has it's own control. The high setting is great for the first ten minutes in normal cool temps but will eventually cook your butt if it is any warmer than -10 Celsius. The low setting is perfect for long term use even on days up to +10 Celsius. I have a friend that uses them in the summer when driving home from a game of golf. He swears by them but swearing isn't nice.... Also available are heated vests that plug into a cig lighter socket. Available at most motorcycle shops. Again, they don't work unless you wear them under your clothes near your skin, perhaps just on top of a T-shirt. I recently rented a snowmobile that used this same technology to heat the handgrips. They were great. I am now spoiled and will not buy a car without these but any good automotive upholstery shop can add them for around $200 USD per seat. My wife's car has them and she has declared I can never get her a car without them ever again. Ho-hum....... Norman Hunger RV6A Delta BC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Pro-Seal alternative
Date: Feb 23, 2001
-----Original Message----- From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> Date: Friday, February 23, 2001 12:24 PM Subject: RV-List: Re: Pro-Seal alternative > >> Norm, >> >> I saw the bit you wrote in the RVator (I have the "18 Years of...") back >in >> '97 regarding the alternative to ProSeal available from Aircraft Spruce >(p/n >> 09-38500 or 09-38510). I wrote Van's and asked them if they thought the >> stuff was ok to use and they referred me back to you. >> >> Have you used it? If so, how is it working out? Thanks. > > >Pro-seal has seriously bad nerve damaging toxins in it and I found the ACS >kits vastly reduced my exposure to it. The ACS kits have an internal mixing >mechanism that is hard to describe but is totally trick. This is what the >airlines use. > >Norman Hunger >RV6A Delta BC > I wonder what your source is regarding the "seriously bad nerve damaging toxins"? I have the Courtlands Aerospace MSDS for Pro-Seal 890 B-2 Base Compound and Accelerator in front of me as I type. It appears to me that the worst offender is toluene, present at 5% concentration. Under Section VIII, Special Protection Information, the MSDS calls out only "general ventilation to maintain vapors below TLV". I don't have an MSDS for the ACS product so I cannot compare the two products. However, I see nothing in the Courtlands MSDS that meets your description. I think you will find that you will encounter far more serious compounds in building an RV then Pro-Seal. Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 46 hours Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Karl Shiling" <k_schilling(at)iquest.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Seat Heating Pads ?
Date: Feb 23, 2001
Yes National Auto Spa 765-642-4399 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 23, 2001
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Pro-Seal alternative
To all who use the proseal or the acs system it is in essence the same product the acs mixes the two parts in a tube and then you use the nozzle on the tube to spread out the proseal mix. You still get the smell. In my experience (and there is a lot of experience here from me using both types) you may want to consult the M.S.D.Sheet to find out if there are any associated health risks involved. I dont foresee any health risks unless you get the stuff all over you and don't clean up after yourself and let the proseal cure on your skin. Just make sure you use plenty of rubber gloves and a long sleeve shirt to protect your arms from getting any on you and you will be fine. For you guys who are anal a respirator will keep the smell from making you gag. Glenn Williams --- Dennis Persyk wrote: > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Friday, February 23, 2001 12:24 PM > Subject: RV-List: Re: Pro-Seal alternative > > > > > > >> Norm, > >> > >> I saw the bit you wrote in the RVator (I have the > "18 Years of...") back > >in > >> '97 regarding the alternative to ProSeal > available from Aircraft Spruce > >(p/n > >> 09-38500 or 09-38510). I wrote Van's and asked > them if they thought the > >> stuff was ok to use and they referred me back to > you. > >> > >> Have you used it? If so, how is it working out? > Thanks. > > > > > >Pro-seal has seriously bad nerve damaging toxins in > it and I found the ACS > >kits vastly reduced my exposure to it. The ACS kits > have an internal mixing > >mechanism that is hard to describe but is totally > trick. This is what the > >airlines use. > > > >Norman Hunger > >RV6A Delta BC > > > > > I wonder what your source is regarding the > "seriously bad nerve damaging > toxins"? I have the Courtlands Aerospace MSDS for > Pro-Seal 890 B-2 Base > Compound and Accelerator in front of me as I type. > It appears to me that > the worst offender is toluene, present at 5% > concentration. Under Section > VIII, Special Protection Information, the MSDS calls > out only "general > ventilation to maintain vapors below TLV". I don't > have an MSDS for the > ACS product so I cannot compare the two products. > However, I see nothing in > the Courtlands MSDS that meets your description. I > think you will find that > you will encounter far more serious compounds in > building an RV then > Pro-Seal. > > Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 46 hours > Hampshire, IL C38 > > > > through > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > Matronics! > > > > > ==== Glenn Williams 8A A&P N81GW Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices! http://auctions.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WFACT01(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 23, 2001
Subject: Re: Pro-Seal alternative
NORMAN- IT WORKS EVEN BETTER WITH THE AIR GUN REGARDS TOM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 23, 2001
Subject: Re: 6 vs 6a (halfway humor-hit DELETE now)
In a message dated 02/23/2001 9:34:58 AM Eastern Standard Time, billshook(at)mindspring.com writes: << I want to be able to botch a landing and not be thinking of whether or not the gear is going to snap....if I really screw up a taildragger landing (which I've done many times), simply throttle up and you get to fly the plane a few more minutes as you make pattern to do it again. Besides, as has been stated many times....the RV taildragger is barely a taildragger by old world standards. Bill -4 wings >> that is also the best way to salvage a botched trigear landing in a 6A (yes, they happen, and yes, I learned this from experience.) Feed in the power, and before you can even proceed further into the go-around sequence, the porpoising stops, the ship stabilizes a foot or so off the turf, and she's ready for a smooth landing if there's runway remaining. Point well taken about the 6 being tame by taildragger standards. I have flown both. -Bill B ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Approach Power Settings.....again
Date: Feb 23, 2001
Dennis, Did you ever get an answer to your question? Since I was taught to fly IFR "by the numbers" I am inyerested in what others are doing? >My questions are, what power settings do you use and what speed do you fly the approach? >Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 46 hours (all in severe clear VFR) Ross ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Power charts/curves
Date: Feb 23, 2001
Kevin Horton, I was fooling around with your speadsheet and noticed that they end at 2000 rpm. Is the O360 never flown at lower than 2000 rpm? When Dennis started this (now extended) thread, he said.... "My problem was that at 90K and 500 fpm descent, I was right smack in the center of the prohibited band! I had set the RPM to 2300 for starters as I do for normal pattern work, but as I reduced MP to achieve 90K and 500 fpm descent, the prop could no longer servo and RPM decayed to within the prohibited band." I would suspect that another way to approach this problem is to set the rpm below the 2000 rpm "restriction" and run the manifold pressure up to the power setting you need. This may start a thread on running "over-squared" which would be fine (please rewrite the subject line). Is data available to extend your power chart into the teens? Ross ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 23, 2001
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Aircraft designators
The Diamond Katana's official designation was changed to DV-20 a few years ago to avoid confusion with the Dassault Falcon 20 (the 'real' DA-20). I wish I had a buck for every hour I spent instructing in the DV-20. Actually, that's about what I earned... :-) -- Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 #81125 (N118KB) canopy & panel www.egroups.com/files/bostonrvbuilders bcbraem(at)home.com wrote: > > As an additional aside, the original Katana (Diamond) DA-20 > single-engine trainer, also has the same designator as a popular > twin-engine business jet--so let those students rack up hours for the airlines. > > Boyd > N600SS ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Glover" <wirraway2(at)bravo.net.au>
Subject: Re: Jon's Tip Tanks Question..
Date: Feb 24, 2001
<<< Jon's Instructions say when mounting the tip tanks to just drill through > existing holes. Im building a QB 6A and obviously they dont already have > them installed, so my question is what spacing for the screws and platenuts > did you use? The plans show 2 1/2 in, but that is for a basic fiberglass tip > and I assume since it will put some stress on the tip spacing will need to be > shorter. >>> Hi Kurt, The 2.5 inch spacing is all that is necessary, and that is the way mine are done. There would be no problem in reducing the distance to 2 inches for greater distribution of weight/load. Jon's tanks have, what looks like a stainless steel metal band (tough to drill through), glassed into the edge where the nutplates are attached, and is VERY strong. Quality of the tanks are first class....... Cheers, Ken Glover Hunter Valley Australia RV6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "BERNIE KERR" <KERRJB(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Oil sump heater??
Date: Feb 23, 2001
I ordered an oil sump heater from Vans that plugs into 110 when you overnite in those shivering places that I wish to visit in the winter. I was underwhelmed by what I received. Do any of you poor northern types use this device with good results? Bernie Kerr, 6A, SE Fla ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PittsS1(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 23, 2001
Subject: Re: Catto Props
catto made composite fixed props for racers and aerobatic guys several years ago, there were several prop failures. no one i know uses them in aerobatics today because of the these prop failures. there is a guy who makes carbon fiber fixed props (his name escapes me) which have proven to be very good props. constant speed, talk to jim rust at whirlwind, 916-582-3725 in san diego. hes honest and produces a constant speed that is far superior others and at a price less expensive. CALL JIM... mike ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 23, 2001
From: "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: Re: Oil sump heater??
BERNIE KERR wrote: > > I ordered an oil sump heater from Vans that plugs into 110 when you > overnite in those shivering places that I wish to visit in the winter. I > was underwhelmed by what I received. > > Do any of you poor northern types use this device with good results? Mine is a 12 x 12" pad that RTV glues to the bottom of the sump. If I want to fly in the morning, I'll put it on a timer that starts it up about 3:00AM and I put a blanket over the cowl. When I get the the airport after breakfast, everything is toasty warm inside and the engine starts up quick and nice. I'm sure some would cite some technical reasons why other systems are better. But this seems to work for me. Andy Winter Park, CO ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com>
Subject: manual flaps
Date: Feb 23, 2001
I want to run Manual flaps on my 9A but Vans says no---any other 9 builders out there want manual? I'm going to check and see if the 6 set-up can be retrofitted. Greg Tanner RV-9A Empennage SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 23, 2001
From: Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Oil sump heater??
If your referring to a 4" square orange pad, yes it works well. Gary BERNIE KERR wrote: > > I ordered an oil sump heater from Vans that plugs into 110 when you > overnite in those shivering places that I wish to visit in the winter. I > was underwhelmed by what I received. > > Do any of you poor northern types use this device with good results? > > Bernie Kerr, 6A, SE Fla > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Feb 23, 2001
Subject: 12v Dry Cells...
Hi Listers, This might have been discussed already, but a friend of mine passed the URL below on to me today and it seemed like something that might be handy for saving a few lbs in a plane. Anyone tried these drycells in an aircraft enviroment? Best regards, Matt Dralle -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.)
Date: Feb 23, 2001
Subject: Re: manual flaps
No flame intended but once you have used Vans electric flaps will not want to go back.I removed the the manual and installed electric on RV4--282EM and they really work slick. 400 hours later and they still work great. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cliff Begnaud" <Shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com>
Subject: Re: manual flaps
Date: Feb 23, 2001
YES, YES, YES !!!! I bugged them about this also, I know of a -6A owner that switced to electric flaps and still has the mechanism for manual flaps. When I get to that stage I will see if the mechanism will work with the 9, but I doubt that it will, otherwise Vans could offer it. Please let me know what you discover. Regards, Cliff Just started wings, Erie, CO > I want to run Manual flaps on my 9A but Vans says no---any other 9 builders > out there want manual? I'm going to check and see if the 6 set-up can be > retrofitted. > > Greg Tanner > RV-9A Empennage > SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 23, 2001
Subject: Re: RV-6 vs 6A
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com>
>Bob, > >Tailwheel airplanes are not really harder but they are different and >somewhat less forgiving. Almost any pilot could learn to fly one. To be >sure though, it would be a real good idea to get a tailwheel checkout now. >That will give you the information you need. I know it may not be easy to >find a suitable instructor and airplane but if you have to travel a little >and take some time off won't it be worth it to feel confident enough to be >able to build that beautiful 6. If you are really leaning toward the 6A it >doesn't sound like a problem though. > >I do have first hand experience with someone that could not learn to fly a >taildragger. I ran into him when I was RV-6 shopping before I finally >decided to build. He was not a pilot at all and had completed a pretty >nice >RV-6. At this point he found he could not learn to land it, hence the >reason for it being for sale. I also met a fellow who was a high time >pilot >who turned his RV-6A over on the first flight, so having a nose gear does >not preclude the possibility of damaging an airplane. > >Larry Pardue >Carlsbad, NM Bob, Larry's advice is the best that you could get. Go get some dual in a tail dragger airplane and see what it is like for you. You can listen to other peoples opinions all day long about what model you should build or how difficult they are to fly, or etc., etc., Not every one ends up liking to fly tail draggers. Not every one ever gets that hang of it (and some people flying them now don't have the hang of it :-) ). Recently on the list was an RV-8 for sale. The builder waited until he was working on the fuselage before he got any time in a tail dragger and then found that he just couldn't get the hang of it. Now I hope I wont hear any listers saying "he must not be much of a pilot". That is not at all true. True... with enough dual most people can get up to speed but if they don't it doesn't mean they are not much of a pilot. Sometimes it is that old habits are hard to break and like Larry said "they are not necessarily harder but they are different. Considering the amount of money you will invest in building an RV... please don't take anyone else's word for it (mine included). Invest a comparable small amount of money and go find out what YOU think. Scott McDaniels Aurora, OR These opinions and ideas are my own and may not reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer. P.S. I think if you poll most all of the employees at Vans who fly they would all say they would build a trike if the were building again. After flying enough hours in all the models in all conditions I guess it is easier to use operational issues rather than ego when making the decision :-). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Approach Power Settings.....again
Date: Feb 23, 2001
No, I've not gotten any answers yet. In addition to knowing approach power settings, I'd be interested in knowing how to get the plane slowed down to maneuvering speed. It seems as though Van's Va is predicated upon 6G loading, but when flying with a passenger and baggage, it will of course be less. I'm not concerned about full control deflections but rather vertical gusts in turbulence. Any listers got Va numbers based on full gross they'd care to share? Today I determined that at 2000 RPM and 19 inches, my speed was 125 KIAS and fuel burn was about 6.5 gph. My power-off stall at gross is 50 KIAS so for 4.0 g loading, it seems that my Va would be down around 100 knots. That's pretty low power and a nose-high attitude! Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 47 hours Hampshire, IL C38 -----Original Message----- From: Ross Mickey <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> Date: Friday, February 23, 2001 3:20 PM Subject: RV-List: Approach Power Settings.....again > >Dennis, >Did you ever get an answer to your question? Since I was taught to fly IFR >"by the numbers" I am inyerested in what others are doing? > >>My questions are, what power settings do you use and what speed do you fly >the approach? >>Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 46 hours (all in severe clear VFR) > >Ross > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 23, 2001
From: Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Catto Props
Catto props are the props of choice in the Bi-Plane class at Reno. Tom PittsS1(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > catto made composite fixed props for racers and aerobatic guys several years > ago, there were several prop failures. no one i know uses them in aerobatics > today because of the these prop failures. > there is a guy who makes carbon fiber fixed props (his name escapes > me) which have proven to be very good props. constant speed, talk to jim rust > at whirlwind, 916-582-3725 in san diego. hes honest and produces a constant > speed that is far superior others and at a price less expensive. CALL JIM... > mike > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Wing Rocking with Nav Aid Autopilot
Date: Feb 23, 2001
For the past 45 flying hours I have observed an annoying tendency with my NavAid Devices autopilot in my 6A. In track, wing lever and commanded turn modes, the wings rock. The rocking period is about 2 seconds. The roll amplitude is only a degree or so, very tiny, but the abrupt recovery and consequent overshoot is annoying. The rocking is asymmetrical, in that it slowly rolls off-level and then, BANG, returns to level. Then it does the same thing, rolling slightly to the other side and abruptly recovering. When I turn off the A/P, the plane flys hands-off straight and level with no control input for up to a minute in calm air with no wing rocking. It is an autopilot problem. I received a resistor from NAD which I installed to reduce gain. It did nothing whatever to alleviate the problem. NAD has requested that I send the unit back to them, but before I do, I want to make sure this is not a fundamental design problem with the unit. Today in all modes, track, lever and turn, I added considerable manual aileron trim bias. This had the effect of increasing the period to about 5 seconds, an apparent improvement, but not a satisfactory solution. My question is, do others observe this with their NAD autopilots or am I the only one? I'd like some honest inputs before I invest in an S-Tec! Thanks! Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 47 hours Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net>
Subject: Re: 2 speed elevator trim
Date: Feb 23, 2001
Stan, I am using the MAC speed reducer but there is no reason why the Matronics unit would not work just as well or better. Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 9:55 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: 2 speed elevator trim > > >snip > > In essence it provides 2 power feeds to the servo, > > one (below 120MPH ) is straight 12V, the other (above 120) inserts the > > speed reducer. > > > > Bill RV-8 N48WD > > > > > Do you have it installed with a Matronics speed reducer/relay or one of the > MAC units? > > Stan Blanton > RV-6 > stanb(at)door.net > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net>
Subject: 2 speed trim
Date: Feb 23, 2001
Bernie, James, Denis, and others More info on the Herga pressure switch--Newark Electronics stock No.46WX771 ( or Farnell part No. 731912 ). (Farnell was bought out by Newark.) 1999 price was $33 Regards, Bill RV-8 N48WD ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brown, Ken" <Ken.Brown(at)cmtsd.mea.com>
Subject: Catto Props
Date: Feb 23, 2001
Just wanted to correct some information about Whirl Wind Propellers. The phone number is (619) 562-3725, and their website is http://whirlwindpropellers.com/ Don't know anything about the company, but I knew that the area code that Mike posted was not right for Sandy Eggo as I live here, so I looked them up on the web. Ken Brown > -----Original Message----- > From: PittsS1(at)AOL.COM [mailto:PittsS1(at)AOL.COM] > Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 3:31 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Catto Props > > > > catto made composite fixed props for racers and aerobatic > guys several years > ago, there were several prop failures. no one i know uses > them in aerobatics > today because of the these prop failures. > there is a guy who makes carbon fiber fixed props (his > name escapes > me) which have proven to be very good props. constant speed, > talk to jim rust > at whirlwind, 916-582-3725 in san diego. hes honest and > produces a constant > speed that is far superior others and at a price less > expensive. CALL JIM... > mike > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "skybolt-aviator" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: manual flaps
Date: Feb 23, 2001
----- Original Message ----- From: "Cliff Begnaud" <Shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com> Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 7:50 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: manual flaps > > > YES, YES, YES !!!! > > > I want to run Manual flaps on my 9A but Vans says no---any other 9 > builders > > out there want manual? I'm going to check and see if the 6 set-up can be > > retrofitted. > > > > Greg Tanner > > RV-9A Empennage > > SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED My question is why would you want the manual flaps when the electric are so simple and work so well.?? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "skybolt-aviator" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Wing Rocking with Nav Aid Autopilot
Date: Feb 23, 2001
----- Original Message ----- From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 8:17 PM Subject: RV-List: Wing Rocking with Nav Aid Autopilot > > For the past 45 flying hours I have observed an annoying tendency with my > NavAid Devices autopilot in my 6A. In track, wing lever and commanded turn > modes, the wings rock. The rocking period is about 2 seconds. Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 47 hours > Hampshire, IL C38 > > Mine flys the plane very well and tracks good also. Ollie&Lorene Washburn RV6-A,N795LW,@FD77. O-360,180HP,C/S,300+hrs. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 23, 2001
Subject: Re: Catto Props
I have ordered a catto 2-blade for speed because i can't afford a constant-spd. BUT--------------I am also told that a properly pitched fixed pitch is at least as fast as the constant-spd, just not as versatile.[ weight of cons-spd--vs--fixed ] mike--rv-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 23, 2001
Subject: Re: Catto Props
regarding catto failures on aerobatic planes in the past-------------------------get the full story about what happened and you'll see it was not craig catto's fault. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com>
Subject: manual flaps
Date: Feb 23, 2001
To those that wonder why anyone would want manual flaps, ever flown a 172 with johnson bar flaps then flown one with electric? I'd take my manual flaps any day over the electric. I can pull em on--any amount I want--and dump em in a flash if I need to. Try that with electric. Greg Tanner RV-9A Empennage SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of skybolt-aviator Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 6:10 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: manual flaps ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cliff Begnaud" <Shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com> Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 7:50 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: manual flaps > > > YES, YES, YES !!!! > > > I want to run Manual flaps on my 9A but Vans says no---any other 9 > builders > > out there want manual? I'm going to check and see if the 6 set-up can be > > retrofitted. > > > > Greg Tanner > > RV-9A Empennage > > SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED My question is why would you want the manual flaps when the electric are so simple and work so well.?? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com>
Subject: Russ Camtz ?
Date: Feb 23, 2001
And if you do get contact info, let me know ... I want to ask about the beautiful cowling work *and* the paint job! Thanks, James -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charles Rowbotham Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 3:00 PM Subject: RV-List: Russ Camtz ? Does anyone know how to contact Russ Camtz? We are looking for info on the seat covering on his RV-6A that was included in the Yahoo picture group Randy P. provided. Thanks, Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A (spinner done) Niantic, CT ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 23, 2001
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: manual flaps
--- Jerry Springer wrote: > > > > I want to run Manual flaps on my 9A but Vans says no---any other 9 > builders > > out there want manual? I'm going to check and see if the 6 set-up > can be > > retrofitted. > > > > Greg Tanner > > RV-9A Empennage > > SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED > > > > Just curious Greg why you want manual flaps? I run manual on my RV-6 > for the first couple hundred hours and then switched to electric, > I am much much happier with electric. > > Jerry Greg: I have manual flaps on my RV-6 and like the manual. I am about ready to change over to the electric as my girlfriend cannot get the last notch of flaps. When she flys the airplane (she flew more than half the hours since October) we never use more than 30 degrees of flaps unless I put them out. I like the manual flaps but they are not for everybody. My girlfriend pilot does not like the manual flaps. Over the last 3 months, she flew more RV PIC hours (in my RV-6) than I did. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 766+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Subject: Re: manual flaps
Date: Feb 23, 2001
> > To those that wonder why anyone would want manual flaps, ever flown a 172 > with johnson bar flaps then flown one with electric? I'd take my manual > flaps any day over the electric. I can pull em on--any amount I want--and > dump em in a flash if I need to. Try that with electric. > I couldn't agree with you more--about a 172. An RV is a bit different. More power to you if you really want to go to the trouble of retrofitting manual flaps to your RV but don't assume RV manual flaps are anything like 172 manual flaps; they are not. Try the manual flaps if possible. Some people are happy with them but many find them very awkward to use because of the position of the handle, the lack of leverage and the fact your elbow wants to go into your passenger's rib cage during actuation. Notice what posters have said who had manual and converted to electric. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP Flying http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gusndale(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 24, 2001
Subject: Re: Titanium Tie Down winter deal...
Randy, I would like to get one of the polished five coil Ti-down kits with an Navy blue bag for the RV-list price of $70 Dale Wotring Vancouver, WA RV6A, Lycoming 0-360A2A Sensennich Fixed Pitch (84) working on panel ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 23, 2001
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: manual flaps
Greg Tanner wrote: > > > To those that wonder why anyone would want manual flaps, ever flown a 172 > with johnson bar flaps then flown one with electric? I'd take my manual > flaps any day over the electric. I can pull em on--any amount I want--and > dump em in a flash if I need to. Try that with electric. > > Greg Tanner > RV-9A Empennage > SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED This is a very familiar argument for manual flaps since I said nearly the same thing three years ago when I was building my RV-6 with manual flaps. I had five years of flying a Warrior with the manual flaps and came to appreciate the advantages of the Johnson bar. However, after a hundred hours of manual flaps in my RV-6, I converted to electric. And I like the electric flaps! It only takes a couple of seconds to dump nearly all the residual lift immediately following touchdown if desired; matter of fact, for a really short field landing, I start retracting the flaps just before the wheels touch the ground. This is easy to do since the flap switch is mounted right below the throttle and can be massaged at the same the throttle is feathered. Also, I really like not having to fish around between the seats for the lever. Both systems work well, but after flying both, I really can't see any reason not to have the electric version. Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 240 hrs) "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 23, 2001
Subject: Re: Russ Camtz ?
From: "Denis (Bum) Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net>
on 2/23/01 21:23, James E. Clark at jclark(at)conterra.com wrote: > > And if you do get contact info, let me know ... I want to ask about the > beautiful cowling work *and* the paint job! > > Thanks, > > James > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charles > Rowbotham > Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 3:00 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Russ Camtz ? > > > > Does anyone know how to contact Russ Camtz? > > We are looking for info on the seat covering on his RV-6A that was included > in the Yahoo picture group Randy P. provided. > > Thanks, > > Chuck & Dave Rowbotham > RV-8A (spinner done) > Niantic, CT > Russ is hangared in Fort Collins-Loveland, Colorado (FNL). I get up there once in a while, and watched his work during construction; however I don't have his phone number. If I think I will ask him next week. He did do all that work (including the paint!) himself. A great craftsman. I believe he did the seats too! Or possibly had them done locally. He got the plenum and nose hole cowl parts from Sam James I believe and pretty much re did it altogether to get the perfect fit in the front. Recently he removed and replaced his gorgeous panel to achieve a little better arrangement, with a tilt on the right side gages. This is one marvelous RV. Bill Von Dane took a bunch of pictures when we visited a few months ago. Perhaps that is what got your attention. Oh yes he is redoing his lower wheel pant cuffs to make them more flush. Don't get the idea this is a hangar queen. he has had it to California and on several other fairly long cross countries. Flies it quite a bit. D Walsh (with the beat up green RV-6A) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 24, 2001
Subject: Re: Catto Props
You can get the full story from Craig Catto or from the guys that modified the prop installations causing the failure. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 24, 2001
Subject: Re: Wing Rocking with Nav Aid Autopilot
In a message dated 2/23/01 5:21:44 PM Pacific Standard Time, dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes: << My question is, do others observe this with their NAD autopilots or am I the only one? I'd like some honest inputs before I invest in an S-Tec! >> Dennis- Never had the problem you mention. I did install the resistor, but that was only to cure the well know shaking stick issue. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 24, 2001
Subject: Re: manual flaps
All right then, I think we have found a new topic for never ending debate. Kevin in WA NOSEWHEEL. SLIDER, PRIMED ON THE INSIDE, COMPOSITE PROP, and elec flaps -9A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 24, 2001
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: Power charts/curves
> >Kevin Horton, > >I was fooling around with your speadsheet and noticed that they end at 2000 >rpm. Is the O360 never flown at lower than 2000 rpm? > >When Dennis started this (now extended) thread, he said.... > >"My problem was that at 90K and 500 fpm descent, I was right smack in the >center of the prohibited band! I had set the RPM to 2300 for starters as I >do for normal pattern work, but as I reduced MP to achieve 90K and 500 fpm >descent, the prop could no longer servo and RPM decayed to within the >prohibited band." > >I would suspect that another way to approach this problem is to set the rpm >below the 2000 rpm "restriction" and run the manifold pressure up to the >power setting you need. This may start a thread on running "over-squared" >which would be fine (please rewrite the subject line). > >Is data available to extend your power chart into the teens? > >Ross Ross, The Lycoming power chart that my data came from only goes down to 2000 rpm. The spreadsheet could probably be modified to allow it to extrapolate to lower rpm. I don't have the time to do that - I'll leave it as an exercise for the reader :-) I looked at the Type Certificate Data Sheet for the O-360 and couldn't find any limits on operation at low rpm. I don't have the Operator's Manual here to look at. The Power Chart shows a curve of maximum allowable manifold pressure as a function of rpm. It goes from 29 inches at 2400 rpm to 25 inches at 2000 rpm. So, it looks like there may be no problem at the sort of manifold pressures you would get on approach. But, you would want to be very sure to push the prop forward before the power on a go-around, or you might get detonation. I'm not sure what range of control the prop governor would have. I.e. can it be set to governor at rpms below 2000? I've never played around in this range. Take care, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt) Ottawa, Canada http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 24, 2001
From: kenneth beene <kbeene(at)citilink.com>
Subject: Re: Wing Rocking with Nav Aid Autopilot
> I have not experienced this with my Navaid. Ken ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <dane3(at)ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Subject: S-TEC 30 in a RV-8a
Date: Feb 24, 2001
I needs some help locating someone's web site that has pictures of a installed SO-TEC servos in a RV-8a. I have seen them but can not find the web sight that has the pictures of the elevator servo. I have search the archives but have come up with nothing in regards to web sights. (I might have seen an RAVE elevator install). Can anyone help with any pictures of servo installs on RV's? Dane Sheahen RV-8a ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
Subject: Re: Wing Rocking with Nav Aid Autopilot
Date: Feb 24, 2001
I have the same problem in my 6A. I have just sent back the AP1 and servo for their inspection. I now have it back and installed but have not had a chance to test it yet. I sure hope it works because it's very annoying. John Furey RV6A O-360 65hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com>
Subject: manual flaps
Date: Feb 24, 2001
Greg, As you know, the -9 has about 14 feet of flap verses about 9 feet (I think) for the -6. Maybe Vans said no because they thought it would take too much physical effort. Did Vans mention this? Chris Heitman Dousman WI RV-9A N94ME (reserved) Fuselage http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html -----Original Message----- I want to run Manual flaps on my 9A but Vans says no---any other 9 builders out there want manual? I'm going to check and see if the 6 set-up can be retrofitted. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tdiede(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 24, 2001
Subject: ELT antenna location on RV-8
I am looking for a place to mount the ELT (ACK) antenna on my RV-8. If I take the suggestions from ACK at face value, the best I can come up with, is to place the antenna in front of the Vertical Stab (but far enough back so that the canopy doesn't contact it). Previous suggestions on this board have ranged from putting some kind of antenna in the wing, under the emmpenage fairing, on the right side of the cockpit, to having it in front of the roll bar. Has anyone implemented these suggestions ? How well do they work ? Thanks much. Tom Diede N848TD, hooking up systems, etc... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: E-609 and 605; drawings vs. instructions
Date: Feb 24, 2001
Hello, Figures this would happen when Van's is closed for the weekend. The drawings show and say 3 flush rivets for the E-605 rib and say/show nothing that I can find for the E-609 rib. Orndorff video and Van's instructions say to use 2 rivets. What's the answer? TIA, Lucky ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 24, 2001
From: Sam Knight <knightair(at)lv.rmci.net>
Subject: Knight Upholstery for RV
RV Builders: I have moved to Las Vegas. Please note my new telephone number and e-mail address. I have been in the upholstery business for 28 years and have been making upholstery products for kitplanes for 16 years. I have interior kits available for RV-4, RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8. I also have cabin covers and other items. I am the supplier of upholstery products for several kitplane manufacturers. A list of other kitplane interior products available upon request. For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (702) 207-6681 or e-mail me at knightair(at)lv.rmci.net. If you e- mail for information, please mention either "Knight" or "Upholstery" in your reference line so I can give your request my immediate attention. Photos available upon request. Sincerely, KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC. "Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products Sam Knight ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: S-Cowl Browning 6A
Date: Feb 24, 2001
I have the S-Cowl and Vetterman exhaust with increased clearance for the S-Cowl on my 6A. My cowl interior is painted white Centauri to show up oil leaks and generally make inspection easier. In the areas near the heat muffs (one each side) I noted a browning of the interior paint. After about 40 hours the paint on the interior was flaking off and the brown area was football-shaped and sized. When I sanded off the flaking paint, the honeycomb cowl was a very dark brown beneath the paint and it was a bulk rather than a surface defect. I thought the problem was the heat muffs' proximity to the cowl and was going to solve the problem with exhaust wrap on the heat muffs. I decided to call Larry and get his opinion. Larry said: 1) DON'T use exhaust wrap on his exhaust system -- EVER 2) My problem was the not the heat muff, but rather the exhaust pipe, radiating heat. 3) The solution was to RTV on a pair (one each side) of 0.020 aluminum pads onto the cowl. Larry said to use high temp RTV and put a bead around the perimeter and a few dabs on the inside to space it off the cowl. The idea is to make a dead air space between aluminum and cowl like a Thermopane window. Larry also advised me to use aluminum instead of stainless steel because the aluminum has better thermal properties in this application. My thanks to Larry for the advice. When I have the exterior painted, I can now rest assured that I won't have any blistering over time. Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 47 hours Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Wing Rocking with Nav Aid Autopilot
Date: Feb 24, 2001
John, Please post your results as soon as A/P is installed. I'd be interested in knowing what they changed. When I talked to them I didn't get the feeling that I was communicating the problem very well to them. I think I'll send along a video showing the effect. If the fix doesn't work I'll put in an S-Tec. I'd like altitude hold and wing leveling all in one instrument and besides, the S-Tec does a fine job of intercepting a course, while the NavAid must be aligned nearly exactly with the proper heading before engaging track mode. But for the money, it's a great autopilot -- if the wing rocking can be fixed. Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 47 hours Hampshire, IL C38 -----Original Message----- From: John Furey <john(at)fureychrysler.com> Date: Saturday, February 24, 2001 10:21 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing Rocking with Nav Aid Autopilot > >I have the same problem in my 6A. I have just sent back the AP1 and servo >for their inspection. I now have it back and installed but have not had a >chance to test it yet. I sure hope it works because it's very annoying. > >John Furey >RV6A O-360 65hrs > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 24, 2001
From: Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: manual flaps
After 32 years of flying I've had a lot of time with both and I prefer manual, mainly because I can pull on a notch of flaps and know exactly where the flaps are set without watching out the window or at an indicator while the flaps are going down. This is a distraction that I don't need-especially on final. I once flew a C-177 Cardinal that had a detent system on the flap switch. Just push it to the notch you wanted then turn your attention back to flying the airplane and the flaps would stop at the appropriate position. I could live with that kind of electric flap system otherwise I'll take manual. I don't have any problems with the flap handle in my 6. Dave skybolt-aviator wrote: > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Cliff Begnaud" <Shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com> > To: > Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 7:50 PM > Subject: Re: RV-List: manual flaps > > > > > > > > YES, YES, YES !!!! > > > > > I want to run Manual flaps on my 9A but Vans says no---any other 9 > > builders > > > out there want manual? I'm going to check and see if the 6 set-up can be > > > retrofitted. > > > > > > Greg Tanner > > > RV-9A Empennage > > > SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED > My question is why would you want the manual flaps when the electric are so > simple and work so well.?? > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 24, 2001
Subject: Re: manual flaps
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com>
From: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: manual flaps To those that wonder why anyone would want manual flaps, ever flown a 172 with johnson bar flaps then flown one with electric? I'd take my manual flaps any day over the electric. I can pull em on--any amount I want--and dump em in a flash if I need to. Try that with electric. Greg Tanner RV-9A Empennage SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Greg (and others wondering), Have you thought about why manual flaps are not being offered? I have read a lot of talk about manual flaps in cessnas, pipers, RV-6 and A's. None of these airplanes are the same, and the RV-6(A) is not the same as an RV-9A. compare the flaps... RV-6's - about 4 ft long / RV-9A's - about 7 feet long. RV-6's - plain flap / RV-9A's - slotted flap (more powerful hence the larger tail) The pull force on a manual flap bar in an RV-9A is likely to be quite a bit higher than it is in an RV-6 (which as you have read, many people already feel is too high). Unless you did some major redesign of the mechanism you would likely be disappointed, but since we didn't actually test it lets us know the results if you try it your self. Then we will know for sure :-) Scott McDaniels Aurora, OR These opinions and ideas are my own and may not reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer. P.S. I had manual flaps on my 6A and I liked them but I will probably use electric when I build again. I would not even consider manual if I was building an RV-9A. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Power charts/curves
Date: Feb 24, 2001
Thanks, Kevin. It is amazing to me that the curves provided by Lycoming are SOOO bad. But again, it was certified in 1955!!!! Ross ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 4:58 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Power charts/curves > > > > >Kevin Horton, > > > >I was fooling around with your speadsheet and noticed that they end at 2000 > >rpm. Is the O360 never flown at lower than 2000 rpm? > > > >When Dennis started this (now extended) thread, he said.... > > > >"My problem was that at 90K and 500 fpm descent, I was right smack in the > >center of the prohibited band! I had set the RPM to 2300 for starters as I > >do for normal pattern work, but as I reduced MP to achieve 90K and 500 fpm > >descent, the prop could no longer servo and RPM decayed to within the > >prohibited band." > > > >I would suspect that another way to approach this problem is to set the rpm > >below the 2000 rpm "restriction" and run the manifold pressure up to the > >power setting you need. This may start a thread on running "over-squared" > >which would be fine (please rewrite the subject line). > > > >Is data available to extend your power chart into the teens? > > > >Ross > > Ross, > > The Lycoming power chart that my data came from only goes down to > 2000 rpm. The spreadsheet could probably be modified to allow it to > extrapolate to lower rpm. I don't have the time to do that - I'll > leave it as an exercise for the reader :-) > > I looked at the Type Certificate Data Sheet for the O-360 and > couldn't find any limits on operation at low rpm. I don't have the > Operator's Manual here to look at. The Power Chart shows a curve of > maximum allowable manifold pressure as a function of rpm. It goes > from 29 inches at 2400 rpm to 25 inches at 2000 rpm. So, it looks > like there may be no problem at the sort of manifold pressures you > would get on approach. But, you would want to be very sure to push > the prop forward before the power on a go-around, or you might get > detonation. > > I'm not sure what range of control the prop governor would have. > I.e. can it be set to governor at rpms below 2000? I've never played > around in this range. > > Take care, > -- > Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt) > Ottawa, Canada > http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: ELT antenna location on RV-8
Date: Feb 24, 2001
Tom, I put mine on the right passenger armrest - this is a popular place, as I have seen three or four others put it there. It just misses the canopy when it closes, and you can secure it in place by putting a platenut and adele clamp in the bulkhead. Jerry Carter 8A, Finishing details I am looking for a place to mount the ELT (ACK) antenna on my RV-8. If I take the suggestions from ACK at face value, the best I can come up with, is to place the antenna in front of the Vertical Stab (but far enough back so that the canopy doesn't contact it). Previous suggestions on this board have ranged from putting some kind of antenna in the wing, under the emmpenage fairing, on the right side of the cockpit, to having it in front of the roll bar. Has anyone implemented these suggestions ? How well do they work ? Thanks much. Tom Diede N848TD, hooking up systems, etc... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: manual flaps
Date: Feb 24, 2001
Electric flaps with the switch on the joystick seems like the way to go.......Norman........ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Subject: ELT antenna location on RV-8
Date: Feb 24, 2001
Disclaimer: I have not tested range of ELT antennas in RV-8's! In Canada, Norway, Australia and most other countries there are laws and regulations explaining how an ELT antenna should be installed. I can't find any requirements for this in the FAR's but I still like to think that #1 priority is safety of you and your passengers - right? After a recent bad experience giving advice on COMM antenna locations I'll just post an extract from the CAA (New Zealand) regulations. I know most of us aren't in New Zealand but for lack of finding US reg's I'm posting this since I found it to agree with my own experience. If you use these reg's as a guideline, you should have a safe installation. Other installations are probably also good but I personally wouldn't favour cosmetics over safety. In any event, I'm just providing info. - Tom should decide for himself. Here goes: (please flame CAA and not me if you don't agree or experience in your own flying aircraft that i.e. 'rubber duckies' inside empennage works best - I'm only trying to help) ---------------------------------------------------- 4.6. Install the ELT antenna as follows: 4.6.1. Determine a suitable location for the ELT antenna using the following criteria: 4.6.1.1. The ELT antenna should be located on the upper fuselage and not within the manufacturers recommended distance from other antennas. In any case, the ELT antenna is not to be located within 0.6m (24 inches) from other VHF antennas. 4.6.1.2. The ELT antenna should be located so as to be vertically polarised. 4.6.1.3. The ELT antenna should be located as close as possible to the ELT transmitter. The antenna location should also ensure that the routing of the ELT transmitter-to- antenna coaxial cable does not cross any fuselage breaks. 4.6.1.4. If the ELT antenna is mounted internally in the aircraft, the antenna is to be exposed to an electronic window at least 0.3 m (1 foot) square and insulated from metal parts. ------------------------------------------------------ Mine will go on the upper fuselage just behind the canopy when fully open. FWIW, Are RV-8 Fuel Tanks -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tdiede(at)AOL.COM Sent: February 24, 2001 11:25 AM Subject: RV-List: ELT antenna location on RV-8 I am looking for a place to mount the ELT (ACK) antenna on my RV-8. If I take the suggestions from ACK at face value, the best I can come up with, is to place the antenna in front of the Vertical Stab (but far enough back so that the canopy doesn't contact it). Previous suggestions on this board have ranged from putting some kind of antenna in the wing, under the emmpenage fairing, on the right side of the cockpit, to having it in front of the roll bar. Has anyone implemented these suggestions ? How well do they work ? Thanks much. Tom Diede N848TD, hooking up systems, etc... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 24, 2001
From: Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: Power charts/curves
Check out Lycoming's Publications guide on low power operation at: http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/publications/low_power_low_rpm_cruise.html Dave > > The Lycoming power chart that my data came from only goes down to > 2000 rpm. The spreadsheet could probably be modified to allow it to > extrapolate to lower rpm. I don't have the time to do that - I'll > leave it as an exercise for the reader :-) > > I looked at the Type Certificate Data Sheet for the O-360 and > couldn't find any limits on operation at low rpm. I don't have the > Operator's Manual here to look at. The Power Chart shows a curve of > maximum allowable manifold pressure as a function of rpm. It goes > from 29 inches at 2400 rpm to 25 inches at 2000 rpm. So, it looks > like there may be no problem at the sort of manifold pressures you > would get on approach. But, you would want to be very sure to push > the prop forward before the power on a go-around, or you might get > detonation. > > I'm not sure what range of control the prop governor would have. > I.e. can it be set to governor at rpms below 2000? I've never played > around in this range. > > Take care, > -- > Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt) > Ottawa, Canada > http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 24, 2001
Subject: Re: S-Cowl Browning 6A
In a message dated 2/24/01 11:56:41 AM Eastern Standard Time, dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes: > 3) The solution was to RTV on a pair (one each side) of 0.020 aluminum pads > onto the cowl. Larry said to use high temp RTV and put a bead around the > perimeter and a few dabs on the inside to space it off the cowl. The idea > is to make a dead air space between aluminum and cowl like a Thermopane > window. Larry also advised me to use aluminum instead of stainless steel > because the aluminum has better thermal properties in this application. > Dennis, Can you give a little more detailed description of exactly where you were seeing the discoloration? On the sides of the cowl? In the exit duct? Where? Just a thought: There are a couple of products in the ACS catalog which are appropriate for this application: Fiberfrax and Koolmat. My understanding is that many people have adhesion problems with Fibrefax and the recommended glue. The Koolmat glues on with RTV and I've got a couple of linear feet of the stuff just waiting to be installed... Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 24, 2001
From: Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re: ELT antenna location on RV-8
Are, Sounds like these rules would not preclude installing it inside the cockpit. Dave Are Barstad wrote: > The antenna location should also ensure that the routing of the ELT > transmitter-to- > antenna coaxial cable does not cross any fuselage breaks. > 4.6.1.4. If the ELT antenna is mounted internally in the aircraft, the > antenna is to be > exposed to an electronic window at least 0.3 m (1 foot) square and > insulated > from metal parts. > ------------------------------------------------------ > Mine will go on the upper fuselage just behind the canopy when fully open. > FWIW, > Are > RV-8 Fuel Tanks > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tdiede(at)AOL.COM > Sent: February 24, 2001 11:25 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: ELT antenna location on RV-8 > > > I am looking for a place to mount the ELT (ACK) antenna on my RV-8. > > If I take the suggestions from ACK at face value, the best I can come up > with, is to place the antenna in front of the Vertical Stab (but far enough > back > so that the canopy doesn't contact it). > > Previous suggestions on this board have ranged from putting some kind of > antenna in the wing, under the emmpenage fairing, on the right side of the > cockpit, to having it in front of the roll bar. Has anyone implemented these > suggestions ? How well do they work ? > > Thanks much. > > Tom Diede > N848TD, hooking up systems, etc... > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Subject: ELT antenna location on RV-8
Date: Feb 24, 2001
You're right. Looking at the limited space on the fuselage top of the RV-8 (with canopy open), the inside may be a good spot for me also. I will look at RV-8 intallations at Oshkosh this year to see what is practical and working for others. I would imagine that today's extensive monitoring of 121.5 from both commercial aircraft and even satelite, even faint signals will be noticed and traceable. Are RV-8 Fuel Tanks -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Bristol Sent: February 24, 2001 4:47 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT antenna location on RV-8 Are, Sounds like these rules would not preclude installing it inside the cockpit. Dave Are Barstad wrote: > The antenna location should also ensure that the routing of the ELT > transmitter-to- > antenna coaxial cable does not cross any fuselage breaks. > 4.6.1.4. If the ELT antenna is mounted internally in the aircraft, the > antenna is to be > exposed to an electronic window at least 0.3 m (1 foot) square and > insulated > from metal parts. > ------------------------------------------------------ > Mine will go on the upper fuselage just behind the canopy when fully open. > FWIW, > Are > RV-8 Fuel Tanks > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tdiede(at)AOL.COM > Sent: February 24, 2001 11:25 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: ELT antenna location on RV-8 > > > I am looking for a place to mount the ELT (ACK) antenna on my RV-8. > > If I take the suggestions from ACK at face value, the best I can come up > with, is to place the antenna in front of the Vertical Stab (but far enough > back > so that the canopy doesn't contact it). > > Previous suggestions on this board have ranged from putting some kind of > antenna in the wing, under the emmpenage fairing, on the right side of the > cockpit, to having it in front of the roll bar. Has anyone implemented these > suggestions ? How well do they work ? > > Thanks much. > > Tom Diede > N848TD, hooking up systems, etc... > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: S-TEC 30 in a RV-8a
Date: Feb 24, 2001
Try the following: http://www.geocities.com/ghale5224/autopilt.htm Steve Johnson RV-8 #80121 ----- Original Message ----- From: <dane3(at)ATTGLOBAL.NET> Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 9:58 AM Subject: RV-List: S-TEC 30 in a RV-8a > > > I needs some help locating someone's web site that has pictures of a > installed SO-TEC servos in a RV-8a. I have seen them but can not find the > web sight that has the pictures of the elevator servo. I have search the > archives but have come up with nothing in regards to web sights. (I might > have seen an RAVE elevator install). Can anyone help with any pictures of > servo installs on RV's? > > Dane Sheahen > RV-8a ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: S-Cowl Browning 6A
Date: Feb 24, 2001
The geometrical center of the elliptical brown spot is under the aft part of the Wye junction and ball joint on the left hand side exhaust. The right side is a bit forward of the left. The browning area extends from the junction with the scoop to about 9 inches outward. I have an analog photo of the aluminum plates -- maybe Mike Nellis will scan them in sometime. I had considered Fiberfrax as well but was concerned about it absorbing oil. I think Larry's solution is the best as he has probably tested this on a plane and has a wealth of experience. Dennis -----Original Message----- From: KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM <KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM> Date: Saturday, February 24, 2001 4:05 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: S-Cowl Browning 6A > >In a message dated 2/24/01 11:56:41 AM Eastern Standard Time, >dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes: > > >> 3) The solution was to RTV on a pair (one each side) of 0.020 aluminum pads >> onto the cowl. Larry said to use high temp RTV and put a bead around the >> perimeter and a few dabs on the inside to space it off the cowl. The idea >> is to make a dead air space between aluminum and cowl like a Thermopane >> window. Larry also advised me to use aluminum instead of stainless steel >> because the aluminum has better thermal properties in this application. >> > >Dennis, > >Can you give a little more detailed description of exactly where you were >seeing the discoloration? On the sides of the cowl? In the exit duct? >Where? > >Just a thought: There are a couple of products in the ACS catalog which are >appropriate for this application: Fiberfrax and Koolmat. My understanding >is that many people have adhesion problems with Fibrefax and the recommended >glue. The Koolmat glues on with RTV and I've got a couple of linear feet of >the stuff just waiting to be installed... > >Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA >RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JTAnon(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 24, 2001
Subject: Compressor Decision
Ready to build an RV6A QB. Will oreder the standard tail next week to get started fast. I found a Cambell & H reconditioned compressor today at a great price $260. 120v 5hp 26 Gal tank Oiled 125 psi max 6.6 CFM @ 40 psi 5.8 @ 90 psi Model VT631300AJ Will this be adequate?? Quick advice appreciated. John McDonnell (ready to take the plunge) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net>
Subject: Re: Compressor Decision
Date: Feb 24, 2001
Yes, but...there is always a but...when you start to do finish fiberglass work and are working with die grinders, paint sprayers, d/a sanders, etc...it will not be near adequate. I ended up tossing my 5 HP compressor and bought an 8 HP 60 Gallon 10.5 CFM, and it just keeps up with a die grinder...It was only $400 at Home Depot..in my opinion, spend the extra $140 now instead of later. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Finish Kit (Still) ----- Original Message ----- From: <JTAnon(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 4:28 PM Subject: RV-List: Compressor Decision > > Ready to build an RV6A QB. Will oreder the standard tail next week to get > started fast. > > I found a Cambell & H reconditioned compressor today at a great price $260. > > 120v 5hp 26 Gal tank Oiled 125 psi max 6.6 CFM @ 40 psi 5.8 @ 90 psi > Model VT631300AJ > > Will this be adequate?? Quick advice appreciated. > > John McDonnell (ready to take the plunge) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CW9371(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 24, 2001
Subject: Re: Compressor Decision
In a message dated 2/24/2001 6:25:14 PM Central Standard Time, pbesing(at)rmi.net writes: > Yes, but...there is always a but...when you start to do finish fiberglass > work and are working with die grinders, paint sprayers, d/a sanders, > etc...it will not be near adequate. I ended up tossing my 5 HP compressor > and bought an 8 HP 60 Gallon 10.5 CFM, and it just keeps up with a die > grinder...It was only $400 at Home Depot..in my opinion, spend the extra > $140 now instead of later. > I have a 6 hp 30 gallon from sears and it keeps up just fine with a die grinder. If I was going to paint i would spend the extra money ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 24, 2001
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Compressor Decision
John, you are beginning a fascinating journey! The 25 gal compressor will be fine for everyting except painting your plane(priming is fine with the 25 gal unit); the tank is too small for the ideal paint setup. If you are not going to be doing the painting, then this is a moot point. Good luck with your project! Sam Buchanan (RV-6) "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal ============= JTAnon(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > > Ready to build an RV6A QB. Will oreder the standard tail next week to get > started fast. > > I found a Cambell & H reconditioned compressor today at a great price $260. > > 120v 5hp 26 Gal tank Oiled 125 psi max 6.6 CFM @ 40 psi 5.8 @ 90 psi > Model VT631300AJ > > Will this be adequate?? Quick advice appreciated. > > John McDonnell (ready to take the plunge) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LessDragProd(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 24, 2001
Subject: RV-3 Vert Stab COM Antenna
Hi All, Anyone interested in a Vertical Stabilizer COM Antenna for their RV-3? The vertical stabilizer is the optimum position for a COM antenna. And the VS fairing has about 1/4 the drag of a 1/8" dia. wire COM antenna. I just took the Vertical Stabilizer COM Antenna off of my RV-3, so I could get a mold made from it. The molded fairings will be available from Less Drag Products, Inc. (The price will be available, after the first fairings have been completed.) Jim Ayers RV-3 N47RV (of course, the first fairing goes back on my RV-3.) :-) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Subject: Compressor Decision
Date: Feb 24, 2001
I have the exact same compressor and it works great. I seem to remember I could drill all stiffeners on the rudder with the compressor starting only 2 or 3 times. I have never used my die-grinder except once since I have found my Dremel tool to be easier to use and control. This compressor is powerful enough to power all the tools you need in terms of CFM's. I have a pneumatic squeezer and can use it for a very long time before the compressor runs out of steam - same goes for the rivet gun. These tools doesn't require much. Good luck! You will have lot's of fun. Are RV-8 Fuel Tanks -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of JTAnon(at)AOL.COM Sent: February 24, 2001 6:29 PM Subject: RV-List: Compressor Decision Ready to build an RV6A QB. Will oreder the standard tail next week to get started fast. I found a Cambell & H reconditioned compressor today at a great price $260. 120v 5hp 26 Gal tank Oiled 125 psi max 6.6 CFM @ 40 psi 5.8 @ 90 psi Model VT631300AJ Will this be adequate?? Quick advice appreciated. John McDonnell (ready to take the plunge) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net>
Subject: wing rocking
Date: Feb 24, 2001
Dennis, It sounds like you might have just a bit of excess friction in your aileron controls, a small amount of breakout force. It could be caused by a mis-alignment of a rod end bearing or possibly some side force on one of the aileron bearings. why not go over this again with a critical eye. My Navaid works beautifully, rock solid, once the resister was installed to stop the shaking. Regards, Bill RV-8 N48WD ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Compressor Decision
Date: Feb 24, 2001
Yes, but...there is always a but...when you start to do finish fiberglass work and are working with die grinders, paint sprayers, d/a sanders, etc...it will not be near adequate. I ended up tossing my 5 HP compressor and bought an 8 HP 60 Gallon 10.5 CFM, and it just keeps up with a die grinder...It was only $400 at Home Depot..in my opinion, spend the extra $140 now instead of later. << Paul Besing and others: Actually, I believe that this is satified by the infamous question - - are you building to build - or ar you building to fly. For the "builders" you can justify the additional purchase - the spouse will even understand. However, if you are a flyer (buy what gets you in the air) then a 5 gal OIL type is totally sufficient. I use two Firestorm drills for almost everything, except for priming and riveting. I know that at some time that I will have to decide on how I apply the final coat of paint. I will probably do everything except blasting the final coat by a professional using an HVLP system. The timeframe will be very short, because I will do all the prep work. The decision - Manana!!! Hey, but maybe you plan to spray paint the truck, boat, cottage, cedar fence, another plane, sand blast the fireplace, etc. This smacks of "project creep". You know - Pneumatic squeezer, optical levels, autopilot, fuel management, etc.,etc. It's really up to you to decide on your toys. BTW: I am building to FLY. Ernest Kells - Fuselage Ordered RV-9A - Building Wings, Planning: O-235 Wood Prop Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 24, 2001
From: Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org>
Subject: Re: 6 vs 6a (halfway humor-hit DELETE now)
Good one. Actually, you know, the greater skill required is exactly why many drivers prefer the handling of cars such as the rear-engined Porsches. The jest you make is not as much of a jest as it might appear! Tedd McHenry Surrey, BC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: manual flaps
Date: Feb 24, 2001
Hey, Jim (the great poster) and Jerry - and others. > I get a real kick out of the various ideas you guys come up with to > control your flap positions. I used to own a AA-5A Cheetah. When I > first got it, I was taught to count out the flap positions. I'd count to > four and pretty much get ten degrees of flaps. I'd do this three times > for each landing. I just passed that on to my RV-6A. Just figure out > about how far to count for each ten degrees and forget all of those > fancy gizmos that can fail and maybe bite you later. KISS is the > better approach. If you figure it out, you don't even have to have > indicators on the flaps that you can't see during night landings. Very > simple, huh? I really like this answer. I have built both of my MANUAL flaps for my RV-9A. Yes, I understand that they are long. However, they are not elevators (electric) or ailerons (manual). You just set them, reset them after take off, and then repeat for landing. That's it ! ! You don't fiddle with them because one of the tanks is getting sucked from. Jim's post was absolutely right on. You develop a feel, you execute immediately, next task. You don't have to count, you don't worry about runaway servos, no added weight or cost. No LED display on the panel, no indicator on the wing. Actually have a feel for what you are doing! BTW: my brother just bought a loaded 4X4 with a lighted compass - - er -- if the setting sun is in my eyes am I goining West on I-70 or perhaps East ? ? Parden me for having some fun - back to DWG #12. Ernest Kells Ordered Fuselage RV-9A - Building Wings, Planning: O-235 Wood Prop Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: ELT antenna location on RV-8
Date: Feb 24, 2001
----- Original Message ----- From: <Tdiede(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 9:25 AM Subject: RV-List: ELT antenna location on RV-8 > > I am looking for a place to mount the ELT (ACK) antenna on my RV-8. > > If I take the suggestions from ACK at face value, the best I can come up > with, is to place the antenna in front of the Vertical Stab (but far enough > back > so that the canopy doesn't contact it). > > Previous suggestions on this board have ranged from putting some kind of > antenna in the wing, under the emmpenage fairing, on the right side of the > cockpit, to having it in front of the roll bar. Has anyone implemented these > suggestions ? How well do they work ? > > Thanks much. > > Tom Diede > N848TD, hooking up systems, etc... > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 24, 2001
From: Eshleman <Ronald.J.Eshleman-1(at)tc.umn.edu>
Subject: TEST NESSAGE
THIS IS A TEST ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: wing rocking
Date: Feb 24, 2001
I don't think that is the problem as I have taken great pains to ensure silky-smooth controls. Applying a restraining force by hand on the stick actually helps a bit. I think this is a some do, some don't deal. It is something my wife and I can live with on a long flight but it just isn't right. I hope NavAid has a fix. Note by the way that I never had the stick shaking problem -- always the wing rocking problem. Dennis -----Original Message----- From: William Davis <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net> Date: Saturday, February 24, 2001 7:50 PM Subject: RV-List: wing rocking > >Dennis, > >It sounds like you might have just a bit of excess friction in your >aileron controls, a small amount of breakout force. It could be caused >by a mis-alignment of a rod end bearing or possibly some side force on >one of the aileron bearings. why not go over this again with a critical >eye. My Navaid works beautifully, rock solid, once the resister was >installed to stop the shaking. > >Regards, Bill RV-8 N48WD > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 24, 2001
Subject: Re: Compressor Decision
Sorry I was incorrect in earlier info. I am using a 5 hp and 25 gal tank 110, works just fine. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Compressor Decision
Date: Feb 24, 2001
I have one of those loud oil less compressors... I had it in the garage for a while, but couldn't stand it anymore, so I re-located it to the basement and plumbed the air to the garage using 1/2" SCH 40 PVC. It's good to 600 PSI @ 73 deg F... Also, I tool and old extension cord, and used it to wire the compressor to a switch I put on the wall of the garage. Makes turning it off and on a breeze, but doesn't help me to remember to turn it of... One thing you could to there is wire it to a timer instead of an on/off switch so you don't need to remember to turn it off... You can see a pic of my installation here, I will have more soon: http://vondane.com/rv8a/horizontal/air.jpg -Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 8.43 PM Subject: Re: Fw: RV-List: Compressor Decision Sorry I was incorrect in earlier info. I am using a 5 hp and 25 gal tank 110, works just fine. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 25, 2001
Subject: Re: Compressor Decision
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 25, 2001
Subject: Re: Compressor Decision
In a message dated 2/24/01 8:32:36 PM, n8vd(at)earthlink.net writes: >I have one of those loud oil less compressors... I had it in the garage >for >a while, but couldn't stand it anymore, so I re-located it to the basement >and plumbed the air to the garage using 1/2" SCH 40 PVC. It's good to >600 >PSI @ 73 deg F... Also, I tool and old extension cord, and used it to >wire >the compressor to a switch I put on the wall of the garage. Makes turning >it off and on a breeze, but doesn't help me to remember to turn it of... >One thing you could to there is wire it to a timer instead of an on/off >switch so you don't need to remember to turn it off... > Bill, mine has an auto "remind me to turn it off" function, it comes on by itself when it looses pressure at about 3 AM. (I put mine in the laundry room) Oh BOY those things are noisy. Kevin in WA -9A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: More N83JD Testing
Date: Feb 24, 2001
Just finished the third flight. Some impressions. This plane has the parallel valve 360. Also Aluminum gear. We still left the battery in back. I know that there has been some discusion about the CG of the 8. I have flown the 8 with the 200hp and thought the cg was way to far foward. this plane is great. 3.5 gs is a little heavy for an acro plane but much better than the 200 plane. Was a little concerned about loosing back seat utility. 260lbs pilot, 220 lb. ballast in back seat was great. The stick forces were light with out being twitchy. Ive flown rvs at aft cg and didnt like it .This was nowhere close. There was a very nice balance between ailerons and elevator. The aluminum gear has surprised me. It is very nice feeling gear. I dont know about the life expectancy but it feels at least as good as the steel gear. I still cant help but worry about the first time somone someone drops it in and bends it.We are using the big Positech oil cooler on the back of the baffle . oil is only going to 160. will have to cover some up. Will report more after next flight. have the normal new plane bugs to take care of. Terry B. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 25, 2001
Subject: Perspective
I received this today, thought it was appropriate: 19 February 2001 On 18 February 2001, while racing for fame and fortune, Dale Earnhardt died in the last lap of the Daytona 500.=A0 It was surely a tragedy for his family, friends and fans.=A0 He was 49 years old with grown children, one, which was in the race.=A0 I am new to the NASCAR culture so much of what I know has come from the newspaper and TV.=A0 He was a winner and earned everything he had. This included more than "$41 million in winnings and ten times that from endorsements and souvenir sales".=A0 He had a beautiful home and a private jet.=A0 He drove the most sophisticated cars allowed and every part was inspected and replaced as soon as there was any evidence of wear.=A0 This is normally fully funded by the car and team sponsors.=A0 Today, there is no TV station that does not constantly remind us of his tragic end and the radio already has a song of tribute to this winning driver.=A0 Nothing should be taken away from this man, he was a professional and the best in his profession.=A0 He was in a very dangerous business but the rewards were great. Two weeks ago seven U.S. Army soldiers died in a training accident when two UH-60 Blackhawk helicopters collided during night maneuvers in Hawaii.=A0 The soldiers were all in their twenties, pilots, crewchiefs and infantrymen. Most of them lived in sub-standard housing.=A0 If you add their actual duty hours (in the field, deployed) they probably earn something close to minimum wage.=A0 The aircraft they were in were between 15 and 20 years old. Many times parts were not available to keep them in good shape due to funding.=A0 They were involved in the extremely dangerous business of flying in the Kuhuku mountains at night.=A0 It only gets worse when the weather moves in as it did that night.=A0 Most times no one is there with a yellow or red flag to slow things down when it gets critical. Their children where mostly toddlers who will lose all memory of who "Daddy" was as they grow up.=A0 They died training to defend our freedom. I take nothing away from Dale Earnhardt but ask you to perform this simple test.=A0 Ask any of your friends if they know who was the NASCAR driver killed on 18 February 2001.=A0 Then ask them if they can name one of the seven soldiers who died in Hawaii two weeks ago. 18 February 2001, Dale Earnhardt died driving for fame and glory at the Daytona 500.=A0 The nation mourns.=A0 Seven soldiers died training to protect our freedom.=A0 No one can remember their names. James V.=A0 Torney CW4, US Army, Retired ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Moshe Lichtman" <moshe_lichtman(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: wing rocking
Date: Feb 24, 2001
the way you describe the problem, it sounds like the gyro is not sensitive enough, misses slight wing-drop and "wakes up" only after the aircraft has deviated from course. i have ordered a navaid too (7 months backlog i was told). this discussion is very very useful ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 7:39 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: wing rocking > > I don't think that is the problem as I have taken great pains to ensure > silky-smooth controls. Applying a restraining force by hand on the stick > actually helps a bit. > I think this is a some do, some don't deal. It is something my wife and I > can live with on a long flight but it just isn't right. > I hope NavAid has a fix. > Note by the way that I never had the stick shaking problem -- always the > wing rocking problem. > Dennis > -----Original Message----- > From: William Davis <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Saturday, February 24, 2001 7:50 PM > Subject: RV-List: wing rocking > > > > > >Dennis, > > > >It sounds like you might have just a bit of excess friction in your > >aileron controls, a small amount of breakout force. It could be caused > >by a mis-alignment of a rod end bearing or possibly some side force on > >one of the aileron bearings. why not go over this again with a critical > >eye. My Navaid works beautifully, rock solid, once the resister was > >installed to stop the shaking. > > > >Regards, Bill RV-8 N48WD > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 24, 2001
From: Bob <rv3(at)swbell.net>
Subject: Re: RV3-List: RV-3 Vert Stab COM Antenna
I'm interested in how well it can perform ELECTRICALLY, being located in the field of so much metal to detune and distort the radiation pattern. Bob Urban +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ LessDragProd(at)aol.com wrote: > > --> RV3-List message posted by: LessDragProd(at)aol.com > > Hi All, > > Anyone interested in a Vertical Stabilizer COM Antenna for their RV-3? > The vertical stabilizer is the optimum position for a COM antenna. > And the VS fairing has about 1/4 the drag of a 1/8" dia. wire COM antenna. > > I just took the Vertical Stabilizer COM Antenna off of my RV-3, so I could > get a mold made from it. > > The molded fairings will be available from Less Drag Products, Inc. > (The price will be available, after the first fairings have been completed.) > > Jim Ayers > RV-3 N47RV > (of course, the first fairing goes back on my RV-3.) :-) > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 25, 2001
Subject: Re: Perspective
You're right--------------but its the same world that pays a drug addicted jerk millions a year to play ball and at the same time the doctor that can save your life only makes in the thousands. go figure!!! but this is also not the place for this, lets get back to building or this pile of aluminum in my hanger will remain a flower planter. hahaha ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Subject: ELT antenna location on RV-6
Date: Feb 25, 2001
Norman Hunger and other Canadian RV builders, here are the Canadian regulations (copied and pasted from the CAR's): (c) Installation (1) Where an aircraft of 5700 kg (12,500 pounds) maximum take-off weight or less is to carry passengers on a flight for which an ELT is required, a readily visible placard or equivalent means shall be installed in each passenger cabin to inform passengers of the location and operation of the ELT. (2) Types F, AF, AP Except where otherwise stated, the following requirements apply to type F, AF, AP ELT installations in aeroplanes and helicopters: (i) When installed in an aeroplane the ELT shall be mounted with its sensitive axis pointing in the direction of flight. (ii) When installed in a helicopter the ELT shall be mounted with its sensitive axis pointing approximately 45 degrees downward from the normal forward direction of flight. (iii) The ELT shall be installed to withstand ultimate inertia forces of 10g upward, 22.5g downward, 45g forward and 7.5g sideward. (iv) The location chosen for the ELT must be sufficiently free from vibration to prevent involuntary activation of the transmitter. (v) ELTs shall be located and mounted so as to minimise the probability of damage to the transmitter and antenna by fire or crushing as a result of crash impact. (vi) The ELT shall be accessible for manual activation and deactivation. If it is equipped with an antenna for portable operation, the ELT shall be easily detachable from inside the aircraft. (vii) The external surface of the aircraft shall be marked to indicate the location of the ELT. (viii) The ELT shall not use the antenna of another avionics system. (ix) The external antenna location shall be chosen considering the following factors: (A) The ELT antenna shall be mounted as far away as possible from other Very High Frequency (VHF) antennas. (B) The distance between the transmitter and antenna shall be in accordance with the ELT manufacturers installation instructions or other approved data. (C) The position of the antenna shall be such as to ensure essentially omni-directional radiation characteristics when the aircraft is in its normal ground or water attitude. (D) The antenna shall be mounted as far aft as possible. (x) The ELT antenna shall not foul other antennas in flight. (xi) The ELT shall be subjected to an operational test as specified in Appendix G, Chapter 571 of this manual. Here's the direct link: http://www.tc.gc.ca/aviation/regserv/carac/cars/cars/551se.htm#551_104 Are RV-8 Fuel Tanks -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Norman Hunger Sent: February 24, 2001 11:04 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT antenna location on RV-6 I want to put mine unside under the rear window of the RV6 tip up canopy but I fear that it is illegal in Canada. Does anyone know better? My ELT is mounted on the luggage compartment floor where it is very easy to get at. It is removable and then has another antenna that mounts on it for handheld operation. I can even talk one way. This seems like the way to go but what do I know? Norman Hunger RV6A Delta BC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Re: RV3-List: RV-3 Vert Stab COM Antenna
Date: Feb 25, 2001
Bob, Does "Less Drag Inc." sell fairings? What's their email or phone # ? Chuck ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
Subject: Re: S-Cowl Browning 6A
Date: Feb 25, 2001
I used the Fiberfrax and white high temp glue from AC$ and it has worked fine so far. The Fiberfrax is scourched brown but my cowl is untouched. Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (120 hours) > Just a thought: There are a couple of products in the ACS catalog which are > appropriate for this application: Fiberfrax and Koolmat. My understanding > is that many people have adhesion problems with Fibrefax and the recommended > glue. The Koolmat glues on with RTV and I've got a couple of linear feet of > the stuff just waiting to be installed... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Feb 25, 2001
Subject: Re: Wing Rocking with Nav Aid Autopilot
On 23 Feb 2001, at 19:17, Dennis Persyk wrote: > For the past 45 flying hours I have observed an annoying tendency with > my NavAid Devices autopilot in my 6A. In track, wing lever and > commanded turn modes, the wings rock. The rocking period is about 2 > seconds. The roll amplitude is only a degree or so, very tiny, but > the abrupt recovery and consequent overshoot is annoying. The rocking > is asymmetrical, in that it slowly rolls off-level and then, BANG, > returns to level. Then it does the same thing, rolling slightly to the > other side and abruptly recovering. When I turn off the A/P, the plane > flys hands-off straight and level with no control input for up to a > minute in calm air with no wing rocking. It is an autopilot problem. I've noticed similar behavior with my Navaid. I only notice it in dead solid air, and it's not perceptible unless I'm really looking for it. Mostly, I can feel it in the stick, but there is a barely perceptible rocking of the wings. I don't consider the "hunting" that my Navaid does to be a significant problem. Tim ****** Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a ****** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Re: RV-3 Vert Stab COM Antenna
Date: Feb 25, 2001
Jim, Does "Less Drag Inc." sell fairings? What's their email or phone #? Chuck ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 25, 2001
From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Compressor Decision
Don't forget to drain it every night. You don't want that water that's condensed inside to work on corroding the tank in the high pressure, high oxygen environment. Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: <Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 9:38 PM Subject: Re: RE: Fw: RV-List: Compressor Decision > > > In a message dated 2/24/01 8:32:36 PM, n8vd(at)earthlink.net writes: > > >I have one of those loud oil less compressors... I had it in the garage > >for > >a while, but couldn't stand it anymore, so I re-located it to the basement > >and plumbed the air to the garage using 1/2" SCH 40 PVC. It's good to > >600 > >PSI @ 73 deg F... Also, I tool and old extension cord, and used it to > >wire > >the compressor to a switch I put on the wall of the garage. Makes turning > >it off and on a breeze, but doesn't help me to remember to turn it of... > >One thing you could to there is wire it to a timer instead of an on/off > >switch so you don't need to remember to turn it off... > > > > Bill, mine has an auto "remind me to turn it off" function, it comes on by > itself when it looses pressure at about 3 AM. (I put mine in the laundry > room) Oh BOY those things are noisy. > Kevin in WA -9A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Compressor Decision
Date: Feb 25, 2001
John wrote: >I found a Cambell & H reconditioned compressor today at a great price $260. My RV6a flies just fine and I can't remember ***EVER*** having to wait on the compressor - a C-H 5hp 25 gal from monkey wards. I'm told it is too small for painting but I did some calculations (i r n injunir!) and they tell me it will do that job too. I couldn't run the C-H in my hangar in Stockton as the volts just weren't adequate so I used a 2hp jobby loaned me. It is most adequate given you take adequate coffee breaks. I did some riveting using only an air tank (bubble) and did several dozen 3/32nds as I recall. Painting is the only real issue for the compressor. Then, where is it written that you must paint continuously the whole plane? Painting **CAN** be done in pieces. Paint the wings separately with the wing root fairings dividing. Each side of the fuselage separately, likewise the cowl, and even the emp. Bigger is better but smaller is quite adequate. Hal Kempthorne RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Slick mag hold-down clamps needed
Date: Feb 25, 2001
Listers, I'm presently installing a Lightspeed ignition on my O-360. To mount the triggering sensor module, the clamps normally used to hold a Slick magneto in position are to be used. One small problem here: I'm removing a BENDIX mag and not a Slick! So, I need two of those little clamp doo dads to mount my sensor module. Anyone out there have some of these laying around in a parts bin somewhere? Wanna sell them? Brian Denk RV8 N94BD ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: O-320 Engine for sale advert
Date: Feb 25, 2001
Listers, I saw this ad on wingsonline.com today. Sounds like a good deal on an O-320A1A..... 2/13/101 - Tire Kickers, Please Ignore This Ad! For Sale: 173 hours since major overhaul on this narrow deck, conical mount engine. Overhauled 12/1/98 and removed in late 2000 for upgrade. Recent compression check: 80/78, 80/77, 80/78 & 80/76 on chrome cylinders. Price is $8500.00 outright for complete engine and accessories. The price is firm, so, serious inquiries only will be appreciated. p16pen(at)gte.net I also saw several other engines, mostly O-320's in various configurations for sale. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 25, 2001
From: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Compressor Decision
You should consider fixing the air leaks. Compressed air is about the most expensive power source there is and although in the overall scheme of things we don't spend much on compressing air why waste money on leaks? A properly set up system without leaks could be left on all the time and would only run when air was being consumed. Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 25, 2001
From: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Compressor Decision
An automatic drain works great for this and removes all danger of "I forgot". Also regular draining especially in times of high humidity does wonders for keeping your tools in top shape. When it comes to painting you definitely don't want ANY water in the system and a dryer as well as frequent draining is a must. Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LessDragProd(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 25, 2001
Subject: Re(2): RV-3 Vert Stab COM Antenna
In a message dated 02/24/2001 9:54:58 PM Pacific Standard Time, rv3(at)swbell.net writes: > I'm interested in how well it can perform ELECTRICALLY, being located in the > field of so much metal to detune and distort the radiation pattern. > > > Bob Urban > According to Bob Archer, from the radiation patterns he has measured, the vertical stabilizer is the optimum position for a COM antenna. I made the fairing to enclose Bob Archer's Sportcraft antenna COM model 2. I had also just installed a COM antenna to the top rib of the vertical stab. However, calculations showed that it had 4 times more drag than the fairing. (But this deluxe model COM antenna only cost me $3 to make.) Jim Ayers RV-3 N47RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Parking brake valve
Date: Feb 25, 2001
<http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com>
Subject: Re(2): RV-3 Vert Stab COM Antenna
Date: Feb 25, 2001
Just thinking aloud here but what about the possibility of putting the com antenna in one of the main gear fairings? Greg -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of LessDragProd(at)AOL.COM Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2001 9:35 AM Subject: RV-List: Re(2): RV-3 Vert Stab COM Antenna In a message dated 02/24/2001 9:54:58 PM Pacific Standard Time, rv3(at)swbell.net writes: > I'm interested in how well it can perform ELECTRICALLY, being located in the > field of so much metal to detune and distort the radiation pattern. > > > Bob Urban > According to Bob Archer, from the radiation patterns he has measured, the


February 20, 2001 - February 25, 2001

RV-Archive.digest.vol-kg