RV-Archive.digest.vol-kh
February 25, 2001 - March 03, 2001
vertical stabilizer is the optimum position for a COM antenna. I made the
fairing to enclose Bob Archer's Sportcraft antenna COM model 2.
I had also just installed a COM antenna to the top rib of the vertical stab.
However, calculations showed that it had 4 times more drag than the fairing.
(But this deluxe model COM antenna only cost me $3 to make.)
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | LeastDrag93066(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re(2): RV-3 Vert Stab COM Antenna |
In a message dated 02/25/2001 6:14:24 AM Pacific Standard Time,
crabaut(at)coalinga.com writes:
> Jim,
>
> Does "Less Drag Inc." sell fairings? What's their email or phone #?
>
> Chuck
>
Hi All,
It would sure be nice if the RV-3 List didn't "spill over" onto the RV-List.
That is, messages posted specifically to the RV3-List also get posted to the
RV-List.
I am making a mold to produce RV-3 vertical stabilizer (VS) fairings for a VS
COM antenna. The COM antenna used is Bob Archer's VS COM antenna. The VS
fairing replaces the top fiberglass caps that are normally installed on the
RV-3 VS and rudder.
The homebuilt aircraft paradigm that antenna's have to stick out all over the
aircraft to function properly is VERY strong. I don't believe the idea of
mounting a COM antenna on the top of the VS in a fairing will be accepted.
It hasn't been in general aviation.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Parking brake valve |
I couldn't find a parking brake valve in the Cleaveland catalog or on their
website. Are you sure you got it from them? Also, is it steel like the Van's
valve?
I just found the answer to my own question in the Aircraft Spruce catalog. I
thought you meant Cleaveland Tool, not Cleveland Brakes. Never mind.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Fuselage
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | LeastDrag93066(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re(3): RV-3 Vert Stab COM Antenna |
In a message dated 02/25/2001 9:51:16 AM Pacific Standard Time,
gtanner(at)bendcable.com writes:
>
> Just thinking aloud here but what about the possibility of putting the com
> antenna in one of the main gear fairings?
>
> Greg
>
Hi All,
It should be very directional, unless it is two feet, or more, away from the
gear leg itself. Expect a strong signal away from the gear leg with a very
weak signal getting past the gear leg.
Of course, when you are close to the what you are talking too, it won't
matter much what you use for an antenna. That's why you'll have people
report that their antenna "works". :-)
An earlier issue of the RVator identified that the windshield COM antenna
(tape) received Hillsboro ATIS 40 miles away, and Van's wingtip COM antenna
received it 30 miles away. The article didn't say what altitude they were
at, or direction of flight to Hillsboro.
The VS COM antenna in my RV-3 was receiving Hillsboro ATIS from 86 miles
(GPS) at 4,500', while heading directly towards Hillsboro.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
Subject: | Re: Wing Rocking with Nav Aid Autopilot |
Dennis,
I have the *exact* same problem. I posted the same symptoms to the list
about a year ago and didn't really get back much response. A couple of
people said they get a little movement, but not the sharp "pop" of the stick
returning one way (mine slowly goes right, and then there's a quick jerk to
the left). Like yours, it's very small, but irritating.
I've spent a lot of time tweaking the pots, and I've eventually gotten some,
but not all of it to go away. Now, it doesn't actually change the roll
attitude of the airplane, but I feel the slight pulses in the stick. I also
find that it's less severe when tracking the GPS as opposed to W/L mode.
I've gotten used to it and my passengers never even notice it. I haven't
been able to fly with anyone that has a Navaid (nor have any of my
passengers been familiar with another unit) so I don't know if maybe I'm
just overly sensitive to it.
I've gotten a resistor from Navaid, but haven't bothered to install it yet.
Did yours change anything at all? Like the speed of operation, etc.?
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
ebundy(at)micron.net
> For the past 45 flying hours I have observed an annoying tendency with my
> NavAid Devices autopilot in my 6A. In track, wing lever and commanded
turn
> modes, the wings rock. The rocking period is about 2 seconds. The roll
> amplitude is only a degree or so, very tiny, but the abrupt recovery and
> consequent overshoot is annoying. The rocking is asymmetrical, in that it
> slowly rolls off-level and then, BANG, returns to level. Then it does the
> same thing, rolling slightly to the other side and abruptly recovering.
When
> I turn off the A/P, the plane flys hands-off straight and level with no
> control input for up to a minute in calm air with no wing rocking. It is
an
> autopilot problem.
>
> I received a resistor from NAD which I installed to reduce gain. It did
> nothing whatever to alleviate the problem. NAD has requested that I send
> the unit back to them, but before I do, I want to make sure this is not a
> fundamental design problem with the unit.
>
> My question is, do others observe this with their NAD autopilots or am I
the
> only one? I'd like some honest inputs before I invest in an S-Tec!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | F-689 interference |
With the F-689 front push/pull tube installed in my QB, and the stick
pulled aft, the rod end bearing fouls agains the inside of the control
column preventing the bottom end of the column from rotating forward all
the way to the F-602 bulkhead. Van's directions say that with the
elevator installed, that it's supposed to stop at full up elevator about
1/8" away from the bulkhead. It's fouling at about 1/2" now. The only
way I can see to get any more travel would be to grind out the control
column in the clevis area for clearance of the rod end bearing. What do
you think? Has anybody else had this clearance issue and how did you
deal with it?
Ed Holyoke
6QB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: F-689 interference |
In a message dated 2/25/01 1:27:49 PM Eastern Standard Time,
bicyclop(at)pacbell.net writes:
> Van's directions say that with the
> elevator installed, that it's supposed to stop at full up elevator about
> 1/8" away from the bulkhead. It's fouling at about 1/2" now. The only
> way I can see to get any more travel would be to grind out the control
> column in the clevis area for clearance of the rod end bearing. What do
> you think? Has anybody else had this clearance issue and how did you
> deal with it?
>
> Ed Holyoke
> 6QB
>
Get out the grinder. Sadly, you've gotta do a substantial amount of what
appears to be butchery when you install your control systems. The flap
actuator holes are really nasty...
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Subject: | Re: 12v Dry Cells... |
Matt,
What's the email address or phone #?
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Parking brake valve |
Cleveland Product Catalog, Section 6, Parking Valve, p 6-3. --- several
pages of exploded views. I also used this valve and recommend it.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 47 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: C J Heitman <cjh(at)execpc.com>
Date: Sunday, February 25, 2001 12:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: Parking brake valve
>
><position
><<line).
>
>I couldn't find a parking brake valve in the Cleaveland catalog or on their
>website. Are you sure you got it from them? Also, is it steel like the
Van's
>valve?
>
>Chris Heitman
>Dousman WI
>RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
>Fuselage
>http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob <rv3(at)swbell.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Re(2): RV-3 Vert Stab COM Antenna |
Hi Jim,
I'm taking this subject private with this post.
As an electronic technician for over 40 years, I am familiar with
much of my craft since the days of tube radios.
Antenna design was a favored hobby of mine for many years.
I don't know Bob Archer, nor have I seen PUBLISHED and DOCUMENTED DATA
concerning radiation patterns and specs for this unique antenna across the
comm spectrum.
I do know an antenna needs to be OMNI DIRECTIONAL for my comm purposes.
Until there is real proof that this antenna is such, it is just another
nicely hidden antenna of undocumented performance and value.
Good luck in having omni directional performance directly behind the RV3.
Anyone can build/hide an antenna, but good luck in achieving
omni directional performance.... ESPECIALLY, directly behind the RV3.
Whatever speed increase may be achieved, it has never proved to be worth
the COMPROMISED reception in directions that could prove to be critical.
However, snake oil comes in many flavors and usually the unwary and
uniformed buyer is psychologically prepared to be very satisfied with
his favorite flavor.
My fond wish is that most owners will discover that a comm antenna
mounted between the landing gear legs is about as good as it gets using
a simple and reliable swept back design.
There are LOW PROFILE designs, like the Sinclair used on many locomotives,
but that is whole 'nother story.
Best wishes,
Bob Urban
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
LessDragProd(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> --> RV3-List message posted by: LessDragProd(at)aol.com
>
> In a message dated 02/24/2001 9:54:58 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> rv3(at)swbell.net writes:
>
> > I'm interested in how well it can perform ELECTRICALLY, being located in the
> > field of so much metal to detune and distort the radiation pattern.
> >
> >
> > Bob Urban
> >
>
> According to Bob Archer, from the radiation patterns he has measured, the
> vertical stabilizer is the optimum position for a COM antenna. I made the
> fairing to enclose Bob Archer's Sportcraft antenna COM model 2.
>
> I had also just installed a COM antenna to the top rib of the vertical stab.
> However, calculations showed that it had 4 times more drag than the fairing.
> (But this deluxe model COM antenna only cost me $3 to make.)
>
> Jim Ayers
> RV-3 N47RV
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Parking brake valve |
For those without the catalog, here's what Chris is talking about.
The Cleveland valve is one of many things in my "If I were doing it again"
file.
Aircraft Spruce 2000-2001 (red) catalog page 214.
Cleveland Parking Brake Valve P/N 60-5 $185 USD
Aluminum and includes AN flare fittings. Weight 8 oz.
I have Vans P/N N PB-601N $95 USD.
Made of steel and seems quite heavy but I don't have a small scale.
Could some one else who does post the weight please?
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
> I couldn't find a parking brake valve in the Cleaveland catalog or on
their
> website. Are you sure you got it from them? Also, is it steel like the
Van's
> valve?
>
> I just found the answer to my own question in the Aircraft Spruce catalog.
I
> thought you meant Cleaveland Tool, not Cleveland Brakes. Never mind.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Wing Rocking with Nav Aid Autopilot |
The resistor did NOTHING (except require about 3 hours of wasted time to
install).
My builder helper is going to make a ten-second AVI of the wing rocking in
flight. Maybe we can get Mike Nellis, RV Web Site unannounced Grammy
Winner, to post it. Then you can all see for yourself. Sick sacks are the
responsibility of the viewer.
I find it interesting that my builder helper finds the wing rocking quite
objectionable. He flys an Extra 200 and often lands with over 8 Gs on the
g-meter. The guy is never in a non-unusual attitude for more than a few
seconds except during take off and landing. Yet he says he'd get airsick if
he were on instruments in my RV and the wing-rocking was going on!
Dennis Persyk N600DP
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Bundy <ebundy(at)micron.net>
Date: Sunday, February 25, 2001 12:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing Rocking with Nav Aid Autopilot
>
>Dennis,
>I have the *exact* same problem. I posted the same symptoms to the list
>about a year ago and didn't really get back much response. A couple of
>people said they get a little movement, but not the sharp "pop" of the
stick
>returning one way (mine slowly goes right, and then there's a quick jerk to
>the left). Like yours, it's very small, but irritating.
>
>I've spent a lot of time tweaking the pots, and I've eventually gotten
some,
>but not all of it to go away. Now, it doesn't actually change the roll
>attitude of the airplane, but I feel the slight pulses in the stick. I
also
>find that it's less severe when tracking the GPS as opposed to W/L mode.
>I've gotten used to it and my passengers never even notice it. I haven't
>been able to fly with anyone that has a Navaid (nor have any of my
>passengers been familiar with another unit) so I don't know if maybe I'm
>just overly sensitive to it.
>
>I've gotten a resistor from Navaid, but haven't bothered to install it yet.
>Did yours change anything at all? Like the speed of operation, etc.?
>
>Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
>160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
>ebundy(at)micron.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: F-689 interference |
Ed,
Many of us have experienced this problem in the slow build kits. My answer
was to change the forward and aft pushrod lengths. This allows the full
elevator movement without grinding away any of the clevis area. The pushrod
dimensions in my plans were incorrect for the geometry of the supplied
parts.
You will find the answers in the archives, although it is becoming quite a
hassle to search them due to the vast number of messages. I believe GV has
posted an analysis of the problem and it was from his post that I learned to
modify the pushrod lengths.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 47 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Date: Sunday, February 25, 2001 12:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: F-689 interference
>
>With the F-689 front push/pull tube installed in my QB, and the stick
>pulled aft, the rod end bearing fouls agains the inside of the control
>column preventing the bottom end of the column from rotating forward all
>the way to the F-602 bulkhead. Van's directions say that with the
>elevator installed, that it's supposed to stop at full up elevator about
>1/8" away from the bulkhead. It's fouling at about 1/2" now. The only
>way I can see to get any more travel would be to grind out the control
>column in the clevis area for clearance of the rod end bearing. What do
>you think? Has anybody else had this clearance issue and how did you
>deal with it?
>
>Ed Holyoke
>6QB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Van's Pitot Static System Kit |
>
>
>Bill,
>For what its worth... I bought this kit and installed it (per the drawings
>in the manual...SK something...very simple). IMHO, its not a very good
>quality kit. I was so un-impressed with it that after I had it completely
>installed, I tore it out and threw it in the garbage. I would suggest you do
>what I did, and go to Home Depot and get some tubing and plastic fittings
>from the plumbing section and do it right (less than $12 total for better
>quality stuff). Get your money back from Van's and spend it on the metal
>ports that Avery and others sell. You will be much happier in the end than
>if you put a couple of big rivets in the side of your plane with some cheap
>tubing glued to them.
>
>jim
>Tampa
>
One small note about the use of the nice looking static ports sold by
several vendors: they certainly look nice, but they might not work
nearly as well as Van's ugly pop rivets. The purpose of a static
system is to provide an accurate source of ambient pressure for the
various flight instruments. Several RV-4, -6/-6A and -8 flyers have
reported significant errors in airspeed and altitude due to the use
of the nice looking flush static ports. The errors were greatly
reduced by gluing domed rivet heads over the holes in the static
ports.
I don't have any reports from RV-3s, so I'm not sure whether these
results would apply to that model or not.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Extended Panel on RV-6/6A |
Listers: I am in the process making a deeper instrument panel in my -6
(slider) by 1.75 inches to provide more room for a map box and other goodies.
This seems to be about the depth added by many of the add-on switch panels
that I have seen hung below -6/6A panels, and I am curious what the general
feeling about this modification is among those that have done it or
considered it. (I am 5' 9'' in height so I don't think I'll have a knee
clearance problem.)
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Compressor Decision |
In a message dated 2/24/01 3:33:58 PM Pacific Standard Time, JTAnon(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< Will this be adequate?? >>
Absolutely, and you will be thankful that you did not get an oil free
compressor.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Wing Conduit |
Jack, I am doing just as you describe, however I decided to go with a much
smaller diam. pcv. (1/2) outside-heavy stuff used for hot water. I don't
think you need as large as you mentioned. I have read of guys using this
small stuff, and still running coax. Best of Luck, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | windsaloft(at)rmisp.com (Terri Watson) |
Subject: | pneumatic squeezer wanted |
Saw a post a few days ago, one for sale.
Is is still for sale, or anyone getting rid of one?
reply off-list: windsaloft(at)rmisp.com
Terri Watson
Lander, WY
H.S. underway in the guestroom, RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Extended Panel on RV-6/6A |
> Listers: I am in the process making a deeper instrument panel
> in my -6 (slider) by 1.75 inches to provide more room for a map box
> and other goodies.
> This seems to be about the depth added by many of the add-on switch
> panels
> that I have seen hung below -6/6A panels, and I am curious what the
> general feeling about this modification is among those that have done
> it or considered it. (I am 5' 9'' in height so I don't think I'll
> have a knee clearance problem.)
I'm glad I put the sub panel on my 6A. The extra real estate is
invaluable.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Van's Pitot Static System Kit |
I took to heart previous post about static error due to using flush static
ports. I am using ACS static ports that are mounted from the back through a
1/4" hole. Before mounting I chucked them in the drill press and rounded the
1/4" part over to replicate the dome shape of a pop rivet. Hopefully this
will alleviate static errors that have been reported when using flush static
ports.
Cash Copeland
RV6 Final assy
In a message dated 2/25/2001 11:27:01 AM Pacific Standard Time,
khorton(at)cyberus.ca writes:
> One small note about the use of the nice looking static ports sold by
> several vendors: they certainly look nice, but they might not work
> nearly as well as Van's ugly pop rivets. The purpose of a static
> system is to provide an accurate source of ambient pressure for the
> various flight instruments. Several RV-4, -6/-6A and -8 flyers have
> reported significant errors in airspeed and altitude due to the use
> of the nice looking flush static ports. The errors were greatly
> reduced by gluing domed rivet heads over the holes in the static
> ports.
>
> I don't have any reports from RV-3s, so I'm not sure whether these
> results would apply to that model or not.
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt)
> Ottawa, Canada
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Extended Panel on RV-6/6A |
Harry,
Van's has an oversize instrument panel part # F-603 OVSZ. $42.48. I sent the
original back for credit. I added 1 1/2" and have plenty of room (5' 11").
Cash Copeland
RV6 Final assy
In a message dated 2/25/2001 12:13:06 PM Pacific Standard Time, HCRV6(at)AOL.COM
writes:
>
> Listers: I am in the process making a deeper instrument panel in my
> -6
> (slider) by 1.75 inches to provide more room for a map box and other
> goodies.
> This seems to be about the depth added by many of the add-on switch panels
> that I have seen hung below -6/6A panels, and I am curious what the general
> feeling about this modification is among those that have done it or
> considered it. (I am 5' 9'' in height so I don't think I'll have a knee
> clearance problem.)
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, finish kit stuff
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Extended Panel on RV-6/6A |
I added a 2 inch Z-channel below the panel in my 6A. I have several Bowden
cables on the right (passenger) side in the channel, as well as the
centrally-located carb heat, throttle, prop and mixture. They include oil
door (useless), cabin air and cabin heat. When passengers unfamiliar with my
plane get in, I always push in all controls, lest they snag the extended
controls with their pants leg or even bump them with their foot. Getting out
is less troublesome.
I even push in the throttle, as it sometimes is in the way for some people
during entry when extended. It is not a problem for my wife (frequent flyer)
or my builder helper, who is 6 feet tall, but the first-time passenger will
inevitably have a problem. I'd not change anything if I were doing it
again, but be aware of the potential entry difficulty.
I also had to cut down my sticks from the plans length by about 2 inches but
I am considering shortening them even more so that is not a problem for me.
It would be best if you could sit in someone's plane to get a feel for what
the extended panel will do. I had that opportunity and I went ahead with
the extension knowing what it would be like to get in and out.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 47 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: HCRV6(at)AOL.COM <HCRV6(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Sunday, February 25, 2001 2:34 PM
Subject: RV-List: Extended Panel on RV-6/6A
>
>Listers: I am in the process making a deeper instrument panel in
my -6
>(slider) by 1.75 inches to provide more room for a map box and other
goodies.
> This seems to be about the depth added by many of the add-on switch panels
>that I have seen hung below -6/6A panels, and I am curious what the general
>feeling about this modification is among those that have done it or
>considered it. (I am 5' 9'' in height so I don't think I'll have a knee
>clearance problem.)
>
>Harry Crosby
>Pleasanton, California
>RV-6, finish kit stuff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mward(at)peaknet.net |
Subject: | RV6 kit for sale |
Vans Aircraft RV6 Kit for sale
Price: Best offer
Empennage: 95% Complete
Wings: 75% Complete
Videos:
Orndorff Construction Videos
Enpennage Construction (parts 1 and 2)
Wing Construction (parts 1 and 2)
Fuselage Construction (parts 1, 2 and 3)
Pictures: http://www.peaknet.net/~mward/rv6/images.html
Why I am selling it.
I purchased the kit wanting to build a plane that would give me both
performance and affordability. As a low time VRF pilot I have become frustrated
with renting planes that were either poorly maintained, cost too much, or not
available. After considerable thought I intended to spend around 5 hours a week
building the RV. However I failed to understand the implications of having
another child. Now with two children, I have no time and do not foresee having
any time in the next 10 to 15 years. So instead of having the money tied up in
the parts and sitting in the garage just waiting to be dinged by children or
friends, I have decided to sell. Some day I hope to build an RV, it's just not
practical at this point.
I purchased the kit from a builder in Dallas, Texas. He already was building
two other planes and realized he just didn't have the time to commit to another
plane. I purchased the kit from him in August of 2000 and drove it to
Minneapolis in a Ryder rental. I unloaded the parts and made a jig to hold the
wings. However that is the extent of my work.
Location:
Lakeville, Minnesota (20 miles from downtown Minneapolis)
Contact Information:
Phone:
612-347-4094 (work)
952-953-6116 (home)
612-600-6116 (mobile) Email:
mike.ward(at)co.hennepin.mn.us (primary)
mward(at)peaknet.net (secondary)
---------------------------------------------
This message was sent from Peak Internet Access.
http://www.peaknet.net/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Van's Pitot Static System Kit |
In a message dated 2/25/01 10:06:19 AM Pacific Standard Time,
jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com writes:
<< Get your money back from Van's and spend it on the metal
ports that Avery and others sell. You will be much happier in the end than
if you put a couple of big rivets in the side of your plane with some cheap
tubing glued to them. >>
I would second this 100%. It has been alleged that some people have had
errors with the flush mounts, but I suspect that they have leaks or some
other problem that would explain the error, am not one of them. Mine work
perfectly in exactly the position that Van's states.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: pneumatic squeezer wanted |
I got mine from "The Yard" last year for $250. Refurb with yoke.
Lasted 1.5 weeks. Expected them to say that it was 'as-is' for the price
but nope.
Send an email with the problem and got an answer back almost immidiately
with the request to send back for repair and/or exchange.
Mine got fixed and send back within 5 working days from me sending it,
free of charge. It's working great for almost a year of almost every day
usage.
They have a website but better yet, give them a call and tell them what
you are looking for.
obligatory statement ;-) I am not affiliated with the yard, just a
happy customer.....Did I tell that they trew in a 24 inch 'white on
black' scale for my trouble.....
Gert
Terri Watson wrote:
>
>
> Saw a post a few days ago, one for sale.
> Is is still for sale, or anyone getting rid of one?
> reply off-list: windsaloft(at)rmisp.com
>
> Terri Watson
> Lander, WY
> H.S. underway in the guestroom, RV-6
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Subject: | Re: Van's Pitot Static System Kit |
Kevin Horton wrote:
snips
> >
>
> One small note about the use of the nice looking static ports sold by
> several vendors: they certainly look nice, but they might not work
> nearly as well as Van's ugly pop rivets. The purpose of a static
> system is to provide an accurate source of ambient pressure for the
> various flight instruments. Several RV-4, -6/-6A and -8 flyers have
> reported significant errors in airspeed and altitude due to the use
> of the nice looking flush static ports. The errors were greatly
> reduced by gluing domed rivet heads over the holes in the static
> ports.
>
> I don't have any reports from RV-3s, so I'm not sure whether these
> results would apply to that model or not.
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
I can testify that Kevin knows what he's talking about. When
I added the rivet heads over my flush ports, I picked up 10
kts in cruise, and my high speed low passes at my home
airport went from 75 ft under ground to a much safer 20 ft
agl!
Seriously, I knew that my cruise airspeed was off, but a 100
+ ft error in altitude when at cruise power got my
attention. Adding the rivet heads cured both.
Charlie
flying -4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com> |
Subject: | RE: Adding rivet heads to static ports |
"Seriously, I knew that my cruise airspeed was off, but a 100
+ ft error in altitude when at cruise power got my
attention. Adding the rivet heads cured both."
Can you elaborate on how you (and others) "added" rivet heads to your "nice"
ports. I'm sure there are lots of these types of static ports out there, so
possibly this is what we should all do... but how did you do it?
jim
Tampa 6-A (wiring)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mark Phillips" <mphill(at)fgi.net> |
Well, Ive finally done it. While setting up to drill the top skin to the
W-625, I somehow drilled the 7 rivet holes one rib over. Now Ive got 7 holes
that contribute nothing. Anybody got any ideas??????? Should I just install
7 rivets in the holes and cover them up.
Goin great until now!
Mark Phillips
Williamsville,Illinois
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
Mark, that's what I would do. As far as I know, your only other option is
another skin, but that would be borderline crazy. Hey, I bet you will be the
only one that will ever know the difference. Bob in Ark-fuel tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
When you say cover-I would not cover except rivets only-no putty!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Edward Cole" <edwardmcole(at)home.com> |
Does anyone know what the length of the mixture cable is on an RV6A
using the stock center console and a 160hp 0320?
Also, what type end do I need? 10/32 or wire clamp?
Van's lists two lengths 43 or 48"
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Van's Pitot Static System Kit |
>
>
>Kevin Horton wrote:
>snips
>> >
>>
>> One small note about the use of the nice looking static ports sold by
>> several vendors: they certainly look nice, but they might not work
>> nearly as well as Van's ugly pop rivets. The purpose of a static
>> system is to provide an accurate source of ambient pressure for the
>> various flight instruments. Several RV-4, -6/-6A and -8 flyers have
>> reported significant errors in airspeed and altitude due to the use
>> of the nice looking flush static ports. The errors were greatly
>> reduced by gluing domed rivet heads over the holes in the static
>> ports.
>>
>> I don't have any reports from RV-3s, so I'm not sure whether these
>> results would apply to that model or not.
>> --
>> Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt)
>> Ottawa, Canada
>> http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>>
>I can testify that Kevin knows what he's talking about. When
>I added the rivet heads over my flush ports, I picked up 10
>kts in cruise, and my high speed low passes at my home
>airport went from 75 ft under ground to a much safer 20 ft
>agl!
>
>Seriously, I knew that my cruise airspeed was off, but a 100
>+ ft error in altitude when at cruise power got my
>attention. Adding the rivet heads cured both.
>
>Charlie
>flying -4
>
We need to keep this in perspective. Every aircraft will have a
slightly different error in the static system, due to the effect of
small differences in contour. You see this with production aircraft
made on hard tooling, and the differences are likely even larger on
homebuilts.
So, I'm not surprised that some people will find the flush static
ports give good accuracy. On the other hand I've got a collection of
RV-list messages from people who reported better results with the pop
rivets than the flush ports.
Lets face it - I bet 99% of builders don't really know how accurate
their static system really is. They may know what their airspeed
error is, but they don't know how much of that is due to errors in
the indicator, and how much is due to the static source.
If you prefer the look of the flush static ports, by all means use
them. I just suggest that you do a proper test of the static system
accuracy after you get flying. A static system error will affect
airspeed and altitude - it would be quite easy to have a 100 - 200 ft
error in the indicated altitude due to errors in the static source.
If you want to do a proper check of the static system accuracy, have a look at:
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks/ssec.html
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
Thats the way we do it. No one will ever know.
Cecil
Should I just
> install
> 7 rivets in the holes and cover them up.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mark Phillips" <mphill(at)fgi.net> |
Well, I have finally done it. While installing the top skin to drill the
W-625, I drilled the next rib over and now have 7 rivets holes that
contribute nothing. Is it permissable to install rivets there even thou they
serve no purpose?????? Cheeeezzzzzzz
Mark Phillips
Williamsville,Illinois
mphill(at)fgi.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: F-689 interference |
In a message dated 2/25/01 12:27:52 PM Central Standard Time,
bicyclop(at)pacbell.net writes:
<< The only
way I can see to get any more travel would be to grind out the control
column in the clevis area for clearance of the rod end bearing. What do
you think? Has anybody else had this clearance issue and how did you
deal with it? >>
Ed,
Had the same exact problem. Thats how I fixed it. Just grind it out a
little so the bearing clears. Shouldn't be a problem as long as you keep it
to a minimum.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Finish Kit)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
I'de use some oops rivets with the smaller heads to fill the holes
Gert
Mark Phillips wrote:
>
>
> Well, Ive finally done it. While setting up to drill the top skin to the
> W-625, I somehow drilled the 7 rivet holes one rib over. Now Ive got 7 holes
> that contribute nothing. Anybody got any ideas??????? Should I just install
> 7 rivets in the holes and cover them up.
>
> Goin great until now!
> Mark Phillips
> Williamsville,Illinois
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
Listers:
I have some RG400 left over from my RV4. I think I paid 1.95 or 2.00Ft.
I'll let it go for a buck a foot to get it out of my shop. I think I've
got about 120ft. I always buy alot because everything I do takes two or
three times the material (due to my excellent workmanship and very high
quality control efforts of course). Let me know off of the list if you
would like to purchase the entire amount or just some of it. Do Not
Archive!
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
The cowling is interesting work!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
Gert:
If you look at a bunch of RV-4,6,8 aircraft, all in a row, you'll find
several with the same sort of goof. I have several "rivets for no
reason" on my 4. Get back to work and don't even think about redoing
something. I left out the RV3 as those people never make a mistake!
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
gert wrote:
>
>
> I'de use some oops rivets with the smaller heads to fill the holes
>
> Gert
>
> Mark Phillips wrote:
> >
> >
> > Well, Ive finally done it. While setting up to drill the top skin to the
> > W-625, I somehow drilled the 7 rivet holes one rib over. Now Ive got 7 holes
> > that contribute nothing. Anybody got any ideas??????? Should I just install
> > 7 rivets in the holes and cover them up.
> >
> > Goin great until now!
> > Mark Phillips
> > Williamsville,Illinois
> >
>
> --
>
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "dave ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
Have any of you winter flyers seen the need for installing defrost ducts
and/or fans for the canopy windscreen?
Dave Ford
RV6 slider
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com> |
Subject: | Van's Pitot Static System Kit |
I think the point of this thread is not that one system really "looks"
better than another, but that the Van's static kit leaves a bit to be
desired...especially the way it all hooks together. My original point was
NOT about the actual port, but about the way the system fits together.
Several persons on this thread have made very good points about the accuracy
of ALL static systems, regardless of how it looks to one builder or another.
However, you'll have a hard time getting your static system to be accurate
if you can't make it fit together in the first place. IMHO, Van's static kit
is junk and it is not worthy of any of our airplanes. Anybody who can build
one of these planes can make a better one cheaper on their own in 10
minutes. I wish somebody would have saved me $35 by reading one email.
jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2001 10:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's Pitot Static System Kit
>
>
>Kevin Horton wrote:
>snips
>> >
>>
>> One small note about the use of the nice looking static ports sold by
>> several vendors: they certainly look nice, but they might not work
>> nearly as well as Van's ugly pop rivets. The purpose of a static
>> system is to provide an accurate source of ambient pressure for the
>> various flight instruments. Several RV-4, -6/-6A and -8 flyers have
>> reported significant errors in airspeed and altitude due to the use
>> of the nice looking flush static ports. The errors were greatly
>> reduced by gluing domed rivet heads over the holes in the static
>> ports.
>>
>> I don't have any reports from RV-3s, so I'm not sure whether these
>> results would apply to that model or not.
>> --
>> Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt)
>> Ottawa, Canada
>> http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>>
>I can testify that Kevin knows what he's talking about. When
>I added the rivet heads over my flush ports, I picked up 10
>kts in cruise, and my high speed low passes at my home
>airport went from 75 ft under ground to a much safer 20 ft
>agl!
>
>Seriously, I knew that my cruise airspeed was off, but a 100
>+ ft error in altitude when at cruise power got my
>attention. Adding the rivet heads cured both.
>
>Charlie
>flying -4
>
We need to keep this in perspective. Every aircraft will have a
slightly different error in the static system, due to the effect of
small differences in contour. You see this with production aircraft
made on hard tooling, and the differences are likely even larger on
homebuilts.
So, I'm not surprised that some people will find the flush static
ports give good accuracy. On the other hand I've got a collection of
RV-list messages from people who reported better results with the pop
rivets than the flush ports.
Lets face it - I bet 99% of builders don't really know how accurate
their static system really is. They may know what their airspeed
error is, but they don't know how much of that is due to errors in
the indicator, and how much is due to the static source.
If you prefer the look of the flush static ports, by all means use
them. I just suggest that you do a proper test of the static system
accuracy after you get flying. A static system error will affect
airspeed and altitude - it would be quite easy to have a 100 - 200 ft
error in the indicated altitude due to errors in the static source.
If you want to do a proper check of the static system accuracy, have a look
at:
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks/ssec.html
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
> Have any of you winter flyers seen the need for installing defrost ducts
> and/or fans for the canopy windscreen?
Absolutely. My -6 fogs up good on those cold mornings. It clears up pretty
quickly upon takeoff and I've never had fogged windows in flight, but
taxiing around I need to crack the canopy to clear things out. I put a
defroster vent in the glareshield on the pilots side with a SCAT tube going
down to the heater vent but its not connected there, kind of just pointing
at the heater inlet, and it doesn't do any good. I need to make a heat
shuttle and plumb it in. Others on the list have reported using computer
fans in the past with good success -- check the archives for more on that.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Not so far. Coldest day was about 10F on the ground and overcast. About 5 F
OAT at altitude. What surprised me is that with two of us in the plane and
canopy closed, there was no condensation on the canopy even with a several
minute delay to engine start! In my C172 under similar conditions, I think
I'd have to open a window or suffer lots of condensate on the windshield. I
do have a hole in the glare shield where I was going to mount a fan, but so
far no need for it.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP -- love winter flying
-----Original Message-----
From: dave ford <dford(at)michweb.net>
Date: Sunday, February 25, 2001 10:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: Defrost
>
>Have any of you winter flyers seen the need for installing defrost ducts
>and/or fans for the canopy windscreen?
>
>Dave Ford
>RV6 slider
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pre Inspection Paperwork/Checklist |
> Not needed for flight within the US. However if you plan on international
> flights you will need to get it.
True. However, I called AOPA to ask this very question and their answer was
that technically you do need it but nobody ever asks you for it and nobody
in Canda cares. I think it costs $70 or something which is a lot to spend
for something that nobody ever asks to see.
I haven't tried going into Canada though to find out myself -- if anyone
does and gets busted let me know :-)
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: ELT antenna location on RV-6 |
I asked Van's about ELT installation in my RV-6A. I had seen a lot of RV6s with
ELTs installed inside the baggage compartment. Seems to me that would
seriously affect antenna performance. Van's recommended mounting the ELT on
the end rib of the wing, so it is essentially inside the fiberglass wingtip.
That is what I did. The antenna sticks out straight and just gets bent back a
bit by the wingtip - like a bent wip com. antena. A SWR measurement indicated
it was a good installation. I'm not flying yet, so that's all I can say at this
point.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Pound seven small rivets into your holes and then forget about them. Move
on. You are building a custom airplane. Have fun.......Norman........
> Well, I have finally done it. While installing the top skin to drill the
> W-625, I drilled the next rib over and now have 7 rivets holes that
> contribute nothing. Is it permissable to install rivets there even thou
they
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
I'd use regular rivets and nothing special. I use oops rivets when I have
drilled out holes and then have a larger diam. though the material.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
Hello David,
Gosh!, I guess I ordered the wrong kit (an RV6A) when I should have ordered
a 3 because I'm just like the RV3 builders you mentioned, I never make
mistreaks.
Happy trails, Vapor Trails, that is!
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2001 8:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: W-625
>
> Gert:
> If you look at a bunch of RV-4,6,8 aircraft, all in a row, you'll find
> several with the same sort of goof. I have several "rivets for no
> reason" on my 4. Get back to work and don't even think about redoing
> something. I left out the RV3 as those people never make a mistake!
> Dave Aronson
> RV4 N504RV
>
> gert wrote:
> >
> >
> > I'de use some oops rivets with the smaller heads to fill the holes
> >
> > Gert
> >
> > Mark Phillips wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Well, Ive finally done it. While setting up to drill the top skin
to the
> > > W-625, I somehow drilled the 7 rivet holes one rib over. Now Ive got 7
holes
> > > that contribute nothing. Anybody got any ideas??????? Should I just
install
> > > 7 rivets in the holes and cover them up.
> > >
> > > Goin great until now!
> > > Mark Phillips
> > > Williamsville,Illinois
> > >
> >
> > --
> >
> > is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Extended Panel on RV-6/6A |
You might want to consider your passengers too. I'm 6'3" and am very
uncomfortable as a pax trying to keep my feet back off the rudder pedals
when there's a 1 1/2 or 2" subpanel.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) wiring & systems
>
> Listers: I am in the process making a deeper
> instrument panel in my -6
> (slider) by 1.75 inches to provide more room for a map box
> and other goodies.
> This seems to be about the depth added by many of the add-on
> switch panels
> that I have seen hung below -6/6A panels, and I am curious
> what the general
> feeling about this modification is among those that have done it or
> considered it. (I am 5' 9'' in height so I don't think I'll
> have a knee
> clearance problem.)
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Graham Murphy <jgmurphy(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Mark
It is important to fill those holes with rivets, PROVIDING that they are
not less than 4 to 6 rivet diameters from another rivet. A rivet in the
hole lowers the stress concentration compared with an open hole, and
your aeroplane is full of similar rivets filled holes.
Graham M in New Zealand
finishing empennage v slowly.
Mark Phillips wrote:
>
>
> Well, I have finally done it. While installing the top skin to drill the
> W-625, I drilled the next rib over and now have 7 rivets holes that
> contribute nothing. Is it permissable to install rivets there even thou they
> serve no purpose?????? Cheeeezzzzzzz
>
> Mark Phillips
> Williamsville,Illinois
> mphill(at)fgi.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
Subject: | low oil pressure switch |
I am using the low oil pressure switch that is available from 'lectric Bob.
This will be used to drive a buzzer to warn if the master is left on. I had
planned on using it on Van's 3-port manifold but the pressure switch is too
large to screw in. I've looked in ACS and Wicks for a reducer to no avail.
Any ideas on how to plumb these?
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage/finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Mixture cable |
ed
the 43" is for mixture and throttle the 48" is for the prop govenor.
scott
tampa
rv6a finishing, yes still finishing, seems like i will always be finishing
stupid fiberglass
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: ELT antenna location on RV-6 |
Have you considered the likelihood of losing part or all of the structural
integrity of a wing in a crash? I went with the rear turtledeck location,
later moved it inside to the baggage compartment to streamline things a bit.
No plans to test in actual field conditions!
> Van's recommended mounting the ELT on
> the end rib of the wing, so it is essentially inside the fiberglass
wingtip.
> That is what I did.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/FP Sensenich
Hop-Along Airfield - 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | LE, tank, top skins joint |
Thread-Topic: LE, tank, top skins joint
Thread-Index: AcCgBRdYk8Z5wOk4QnaBHbwadILTVQ=
Take a look at the link below.
http://home.earthlink.net/~ctpaulson/images/rv6a/rv-list/joint.htm
This is my leading edge, tank, inboard and outboard skin joint. As you
can see, I have a 1/8" gap between the tank and the outboard top skin.
This is due to my inaccurate fitting of the tank skin while drilling. I
suspect this is not an uncommon problem. I have good edge distance for
all of the skins in this area. How have others dealt with this problem?
I'm assuming it's a cosmetic issue only as I can't see any reasons for
decreased strength because of this gap. Any comments appreciated.
Craig Paulson
rv-6a, wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: LE, tank, top skins joint |
Craig,
I would say its cosmetic opnly and won't affect strength. I also suspect
once you paint it it won't be very noticible because the skin and the
ulderlying space will be the same color. If you are real finicky about it,
you could fill the gap with a light weight filler and then cut a small groove
in the cured filler to simulate the joint, but personally I wouldn't worry
about it. When you look at the big picture and your airplane is completed
and sitting on the ramp, very few will even notice it.
Happy Building,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Finish Kit - hanging engine soon)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: ELT antenna location on RV-6 |
> Van's recommended mounting the ELT on
> the end rib of the wing, so it is essentially inside the fiberglass
wingtip.
This is interesting since all of their demo aircraft have them inside the
empennage intersection. Also, the likelihood of losing a wing in a crash is
significant making me question the wingtip location... severed cables cannot
xmit.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, finishing
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: LE, tank, top skins joint |
Craig this is not an issue, My tank has an 1/8 inch
gap on the bottom and It was pulled tight with
ratcheting straps. I believe that when the metal was
formed it was somehow formed at an angle by the
factory. At any rate since you are at the finishing
stage what I would do is take some tape and mask off
right at the mtetal's edge leaving about a thumbnails
worth of metal showing on both sides of the seam.
Either use fiberfill or mix some proseal and fill in
the gap only after final fitting of the tanks has been
accomplished. Smooth out the excess with a squeegee
and then when your a/c is painted it will not show. If
you have to take the tanks back off after painting,
simply score the proseal or fiberfill with an x-acto
knife being carefull not to score the metal or use a
composite piece sanded to an edge to score the seam.
After reassembly repeat the process to fill in the gap
and touch up with paint. If you score the metal using
an x-acto knife just prime the scored metal and use
the above mentioned process to hide your gap. This is
how it is done on the corporate side of the house and
it works great lasts a long time.
Glenn Williams
--- Craig Paulson <cpaulson@paulson-training.com>
wrote:
> <cpaulson@paulson-training.com>
>
> Take a look at the link below.
>
>
http://home.earthlink.net/~ctpaulson/images/rv6a/rv-list/joint.htm
>
> This is my leading edge, tank, inboard and outboard
> skin joint. As you
> can see, I have a 1/8" gap between the tank and the
> outboard top skin.
> This is due to my inaccurate fitting of the tank
> skin while drilling. I
> suspect this is not an uncommon problem. I have good
> edge distance for
> all of the skins in this area. How have others dealt
> with this problem?
> I'm assuming it's a cosmetic issue only as I can't
> see any reasons for
> decreased strength because of this gap. Any comments
> appreciated.
>
> Craig Paulson
> rv-6a, wings
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> |
Radio shack sells a 12volt fan for about ten bucks. I
installed it in the glare shield works fine no scat
tube, just picks up the warm air which comes in from
the heater through the fire wall.
RV6A 135hrs
--- Randall Henderson wrote:
>
>
> > Have any of you winter flyers seen the need for
> installing defrost ducts
> > and/or fans for the canopy windscreen?
>
> Absolutely. My -6 fogs up good on those cold
> mornings. It clears up pretty
> quickly upon takeoff and I've never had fogged
> windows in flight, but
> taxiing around I need to crack the canopy to clear
> things out. I put a
> defroster vent in the glareshield on the pilots side
> with a SCAT tube going
> down to the heater vent but its not connected there,
> kind of just pointing
> at the heater inlet, and it doesn't do any good. I
> need to make a heat
> shuttle and plumb it in. Others on the list have
> reported using computer
> fans in the past with good success -- check the
> archives for more on that.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: LE, tank, top skins joint |
In a message dated 2/26/01 7:02:48 AM, cpaulson@paulson-training.com writes:
>
>This is my leading edge, tank, inboard and outboard skin joint. As you
>can see, I have a 1/8" gap between the tank and the outboard top skin.
>This is due to my inaccurate fitting of the tank skin while drilling. I
>suspect this is not an uncommon problem. I have good edge distance for
>all of the skins in this area. How have others dealt with this problem?
>I'm assuming it's a cosmetic issue only as I can't see any reasons for
>decreased strength because of this gap. Any comments appreciated.
>
>Craig Paulson
>rv-6a, wings
>
Craig,
Fill the gap with Pro Seal, it wont crack or fall out
Kevin -9A starting to finish
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
Joe,
Do you have a compass near the fan and if so, have you noticed any
interaction with the compass. I planned on attaching a 3" or so DC
brushless fan on the bottom of glare shield, blowing air through a few
holes. This ends up placing the fan 6" or so from the pedestal compass
mounted on top of the glare shield.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (systems install)
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of joe wiza
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 11:13 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Defrost
Radio shack sells a 12volt fan for about ten bucks. I
installed it in the glare shield works fine no scat
tube, just picks up the warm air which comes in from
the heater through the fire wall.
RV6A 135hrs
--- Randall Henderson wrote:
>
>
> > Have any of you winter flyers seen the need for
> installing defrost ducts
> > and/or fans for the canopy windscreen?
>
> Absolutely. My -6 fogs up good on those cold
> mornings. It clears up pretty
> quickly upon takeoff and I've never had fogged
> windows in flight, but
> taxiing around I need to crack the canopy to clear
> things out. I put a
> defroster vent in the glareshield on the pilots side
> with a SCAT tube going
> down to the heater vent but its not connected there,
> kind of just pointing
> at the heater inlet, and it doesn't do any good. I
> need to make a heat
> shuttle and plumb it in. Others on the list have
> reported using computer
> fans in the past with good success -- check the
> archives for more on that.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | oil filter cutter |
AC Spruce lists cutters from $24-$109. Do I get what I pay for? Suggestions
on adequate model for a guy who maintians only one aircraft?
Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
Have located a 0320 E2D first run core, anyone interested give me a call at
250 675 4428 .
Eustace Bowhay
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Garrett Bray" <braygarrett(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: oil filter cutter |
a hammer and a sharp cold chisel does the trick.
Gary Bray
RV-6
>From: SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: oil filter cutter
>Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 12:25:57 EST
>
>
>AC Spruce lists cutters from $24-$109. Do I get what I pay for?
>Suggestions
>on adequate model for a guy who maintians only one aircraft?
>
>Thanks.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
Eustace: I tried to call you but got voice mail. how
much is the individual asking? Would he consider a
trade? call me at 214-435-9149
Glenn Williams
--- Eustace Bowhay wrote:
>
>
> Have located a 0320 E2D first run core, anyone
> interested give me a call at
> 250 675 4428 .
>
> Eustace Bowhay
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: oil filter cutter |
>From: SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: oil filter cutter
>Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 12:25:57 EST
>
>
>AC Spruce lists cutters from $24-$109. Do I get what I pay for?
>Suggestions
>on adequate model for a guy who maintians only one aircraft?
>
>Thanks.
I bought a filter can cutter and holder from Skyranch. Works great! Very
well made unit and slices the can open cleanly. You can see it on their
website at sacskyranch.com
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Subject: | Re: RE: Adding rivet heads to static ports |
"James Norman, MD" wrote:
>
>
> "Seriously, I knew that my cruise airspeed was off, but a 100
> + ft error in altitude when at cruise power got my
> attention. Adding the rivet heads cured both."
>
> Can you elaborate on how you (and others) "added" rivet heads to your "nice"
> ports. I'm sure there are lots of these types of static ports out there, so
> possibly this is what we should all do... but how did you do it?
>
> jim
> Tampa 6-A (wiring)
My ports were flush holes in the sides of my fuselage. I
used 3/16" shank oval head aluminum pop rivets. I cut the
shank off flush with the head, leaving a 'button' with a
hole in the middle. I inserted a toothpick in each static
port (to keep it clear of adhesive), dabbed a bit of clear
RTV on the flat side of my rivet head, & slid it over the
toothpick & let the RTV cure, holding the head to the
fuselage. I removed the toothpick a few hours later, & have
been flying that way for about 2 years.
BTW, the errors in both indicated airspeed & altitude were
not exaggerated. Setting the altimeter to field elevation
before flight & then flying a high speed pass down the
runway yielded an indicated altitude 75 to 100 feet below
field altitude.
Charlie
ps
Kevin, if you ever make it back down south, I owe you
supper.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: oil filter cutter |
You might consider oil spectral analysis and forget about cutting open the
filter. In my case, I don't know how to interpret what I see in the filter
paper. I don't know what the stuff is and I don't know how much is
reasonable. Fortunately, I have a very knowable IA nearby with a
professional cutter to help me with that. But I still like the quantitative
results from the analysis and I do both.
If you change oil every 50 hours I believe you can buy 200 to 250 fifty
hours of oil analysis for the price of a good cutter. And you will know a
lot more about your engine's health when you are done.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 47 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM <SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Monday, February 26, 2001 11:52 AM
Subject: RV-List: oil filter cutter
>
>AC Spruce lists cutters from $24-$109. Do I get what I pay for?
Suggestions
>on adequate model for a guy who maintians only one aircraft?
>
>Thanks.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: oil filter cutter |
-- SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> AC Spruce lists cutters from $24-$109. Do I get what I pay for?
> Suggestions
> on adequate model for a guy who maintians only one aircraft?
>
> Thanks.
The AirWolf one is the one I have and it is the best VALUE that I could
find. Yes there are cheaper and more expensive but IMHO this is the one
that is as good as the most expensive one.
I only have one airplane that I maintain. A friend that maintains 5
aircraft has this one and I agree with him that it is the Best Value.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
766+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> |
No, But I installed it as far forward as possible
RV6a
--- Carl Froehlich wrote:
>
>
> Joe,
>
> Do you have a compass near the fan and if
> so, have you noticed any
> interaction with the compass. I planned on
> attaching a 3" or so DC
> brushless fan on the bottom of glare shield, blowing
> air through a few
> holes. This ends up placing the fan 6" or so from
> the pedestal compass
> mounted on top of the glare shield.
>
> Carl Froehlich
> RV-8A (systems install)
> Vienna, VA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf
> Of joe wiza
> Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 11:13 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Defrost
>
>
>
>
> Radio shack sells a 12volt fan for about ten bucks.
> I
> installed it in the glare shield works fine no scat
> tube, just picks up the warm air which comes in from
> the heater through the fire wall.
>
> RV6A 135hrs
>
> --- Randall Henderson wrote:
> >
> >
> > > Have any of you winter flyers seen the need for
> > installing defrost ducts
> > > and/or fans for the canopy windscreen?
> >
> > Absolutely. My -6 fogs up good on those cold
> > mornings. It clears up pretty
> > quickly upon takeoff and I've never had fogged
> > windows in flight, but
> > taxiing around I need to crack the canopy to clear
> > things out. I put a
> > defroster vent in the glareshield on the pilots
> side
> > with a SCAT tube going
> > down to the heater vent but its not connected
> there,
> > kind of just pointing
> > at the heater inlet, and it doesn't do any good. I
> > need to make a heat
> > shuttle and plumb it in. Others on the list have
> > reported using computer
> > fans in the past with good success -- check the
> > archives for more on that.
> >
> > Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
> > Portland, OR
> > http://www.edt.com/homewing
> >
> >
> > through
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> > Matronics!
> >
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 2/25/01 6:55:52 PM Pacific Standard Time, mphill(at)fgi.net
writes:
<< Anybody got any ideas? >>
If it was me and the shop heads would not interfere with anything I would
think about putting seven 3/32 "oops" rivets in there (small factory heads)
and move on.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Subject: | Does an O-320 E2D, wide deck, fit an RV-4 cowling? |
To anyone who knows... Does an O-320 E2D, wide deck, fit an RV-4 cowling?
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Does an O-320 E2D, wide deck, fit an RV-4 cowling? |
Hi Chuck;
Yes, the E2D fits nicely under the -4 cowling. The
wide deck is only 2.5 inches wider overall than my
narrow-deck dash nothing. The -4 was actually designed
to cowl the wide deck E2D, E3D and D2J and you should
have no worries getting it to fit. Keep in mind that
some guys have shoe-horned an angle valve IO-360 in
there!
Rob Ray
N557RR
--- Chuck Rabaut wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Chuck Rabaut"
>
>
> To anyone who knows... Does an O-320 E2D, wide deck,
> fit an RV-4 cowling?
>
> Chuck
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net> |
Subject: | Re: Mixture cable |
Also Van's cable has 2 1/8 inch of travel, on my engine, I needed 2 1/4
inches. My FAA inspector who did a precheck for me, told me I must have
105% travel or he would not pass my airplane. He wants to see some spring
back in both directions. I bought both a mixture and throttle cables from
Van's, neither worked. I have gotten a cable from ACS that works for
mixture, but I am yet to find a push/pull (non vernier) cable that will
work for the throttle.
Bob Busick
>
> Does anyone know what the length of the mixture cable is on an RV6A
> using the stock center console and a 160hp 0320?
> Also, what type end do I need? 10/32 or wire clamp?
>
> Van's lists two lengths 43 or 48"
>
> Ed Cole
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net> |
Subject: | Re: IK Technologies Engine Monitor (EIS input) |
GRT now offers instructions on how to wire the Auxilary inputs for either
type of fuel senders most of us have in the tanks. The EIS gives you 4 Aux
inputs, I use two, one for manifold pressure and the other for fuel
pressure. The fuel flow capability is part of the basic system and does not
use one of the four Aux inputs. The only thing that the EIS does not have
is an Ammeter, but it does have a voltmeter.
I decided to also put Van's fel guages in the plane so that I can check the
fuel without powering up the EIS. This certainly can be considered
overkill.
When you order the EIS you do not have to get the fuel totalizer at that
time. If you buy it later they will send you the fuel flow sensor and a
software code to make the EIS display fuel flow. Overall, the GRT EIS is
one of the best systems I have installed on my plane, it is easy to install
and the instructions make sense. Unlike other things I have bought for the
plane (don't fit, don't work, no instructions etc) this thing really does
what it is supposed to do.
Bob Busick
. I have every option Grand Rapids offers for the EIS and
> still have 2 aux inputs available so... I could <
> route the
> senders in parallel to the aux's to get the quantity displayed on the
EIS -
> but I'll leave that for someone else to work out.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Earl Fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Does an O-320 E2D, wide deck, fit an RV-4 cowling? |
I sure hope so because I got one and was told it would fit.
Earl RV4
Chuck Rabaut wrote:
>
>
> To anyone who knows... Does an O-320 E2D, wide deck, fit an RV-4 cowling?
>
> Chuck
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
One small note about the use of the nice looking static ports sold
by several vendors: they certainly look nice, but they might not work nearly
as well as Van's ugly pop rivets. The purpose of a static system is to
provide an accurate source of ambient pressure for the various flight
instruments. Several RV-4, -6/-6A and -8 flyers have reported significant
errors in airspeed and altitude due to the use of the nice looking flush
static ports. The errors were greatly reduced by gluing domed rivet heads
over the holes in the static ports.
I can testify that Kevin knows what he's talking about. When I added the
rivet heads over my flush ports, I picked up 10 kts in cruise, and my high
speed low passes at my home airport went from 75 ft under ground to a much
safer 20 ft agl!
Seriously, I knew that my cruise airspeed was off, but a 100 + ft error in
altitude when at cruise power got my attention. Adding the rivet heads cured
both.
****************************************************************************
*****************************
FWIW, I didn't like the pop rivets either and the reported errors of the
nice looking ports didn't thrill me either. My HRII will use a compromise
when it flies.
I plan to install a 3/4 inch long 3/16" dome head rivet using the nice
little star washers that held them to my wing spar during shipping. That
way no bucking is required.
First I plan to chuck up the rivet in my drill press and use my dremel tool
(sort of a poor man's milling machine) to cut a few small grooves in the
shank to give the hose a place to bite (i.e. make my own hose barbs). Next
drill a small hole through the center, install in the fuselage, and connect
your choice of hose.
It certainly should be more secure than the pop rivet and glue that held the
hose on my RV-4's static system and hopefully will have similar accuracy to
the ugly pop rivet.
Vince in Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Subject: | Re: oil filter cutter |
I sell filter cutters for $43.04 plus UPS, what the hay, I will throw in
the UPS for RV-listers
These are machined aluminum and will last a lifetime. They will cut
anything but the filters with the stud protruding. You would have to remove
the stud or drill a hole in the cutter. This cutter will work on your car,
your diesel truck or your farm tractor.
Cutting filters and analyzing oil is the cheapest insurance and the best way
to stay out of a cornfield short of keeping gas in the tank!
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert Moser" <moserr(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Oops, I dimpled an extra hole |
I had no problems dimpling all of the rudder and hs skin, until one of the
last holes. I hammered on the dimpling tool a little too quick and found myself
with a new hole about 3/32" away from the edge of the original hole. I was able
to flatten out the unwanted dimple, but the hole is still there. How should I
handle such a mistake? Does the new hole need a rivet in it or is it ok? It does
not have much distance from the original hole.
Bob Moser
East Bethel, MN
RV-8 Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Bell" <dbell(at)manisteenational.com> |
Subject: | Ellison Throttle body use |
Fellow builders and Flyers,
Are their any of you currently flying with an Ellison Throttle Body
installed verses a reg carb. I have an O360 A4M and would love to talk to
some of you fro installation thoughts.
You can reply direct if you would like.
Thanks,
Doug Bell
8qb
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
I accidentally deleted the post that gave a web site which had detailed
instructions/suggestions on checking your pitot/static system. Can some kind
soul please give me that site address again? Thank you.
John Rv6A Flying, Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Bell" <dbell(at)manisteenational.com> |
Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Seat Heating Pads ? |
I have just recieved two sets or heated seat elements in for my seats. They
look very simple to install as I am having a local boat seat builder make
mine. The wiring harness comes complete from the pads to the switches and
the price was $75.00 per seat (for back and bottom)....my pops is going to
love them when he uses them, although right now he thinks I'm excessive,
nuts, and extravagant....oh well.
Company is found at www.skylitesunroofs.com and look for carbotex seat
heaters.
I have the deluxe model with OFF/HIGH/LOW settings....
Doug Bell
8QB
----- Original Message -----
From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 1:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: AeroElectric-List: Seat Heating Pads ?
>
> There's a decent thread going on right now over at the AeroElectric List.
>
>
> >
> > Some aircraft have eating pads embedded in the seats to supplement
heated
> > air. Is there a source for such pads ? Has anyone adapted automobile
seat
> > heating pads for this purpose ? How much heat power do these pads
provide
> ?
> >
>
>
> I put automotive heated seat pads into my leather seats. They don't work
if
> you are doing thick woolen sheepskin but they work great with any thinner
> material.
>
> Mine have two settings, high, low and off. The kit includes a very nice
> lighted switch. The high setting uses 4 amps (per seat) and each seat has
> it's own control. The high setting is great for the first ten minutes in
> normal cool temps but will eventually cook your butt if it is any warmer
> than -10 Celsius. The low setting is perfect for long term use even on
days
> up to +10 Celsius. I have a friend that uses them in the summer when
driving
> home from a game of golf. He swears by them but swearing isn't nice....
>
> Also available are heated vests that plug into a cig lighter socket.
> Available at most motorcycle shops. Again, they don't work unless you wear
> them under your clothes near your skin, perhaps just on top of a T-shirt.
>
> I recently rented a snowmobile that used this same technology to heat the
> handgrips. They were great.
>
> I am now spoiled and will not buy a car without these but any good
> automotive upholstery shop can add them for around $200 USD per seat. My
> wife's car has them and she has declared I can never get her a car without
> them ever again. Ho-hum.......
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
Subject: | Oops, I dimpled an extra hole |
Bob,
Just add another rivet and you will be ok. 3/32" is sufficient edge
distance. Besides, you're ADDING a rivet as opposed to leaving too little
edge distance on a hole that is required.
Is it on the top side of the HS skin? (Murphy's law)
In any case, you'll forget about it soon and it will become a distant
memory... :) People will probably only notice if you point it out.
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert Moser
Sent: February 26, 2001 3:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Oops, I dimpled an extra hole
I had no problems dimpling all of the rudder and hs skin, until one of the
last holes. I hammered on the dimpling tool a little too quick and found
myself
with a new hole about 3/32" away from the edge of the original hole. I was
able
to flatten out the unwanted dimple, but the hole is still there. How should
I
handle such a mistake? Does the new hole need a rivet in it or is it ok? It
does
not have much distance from the original hole.
Bob Moser
East Bethel, MN
RV-8 Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | static ports & Piper Pitot Tube |
I have a Piper pitot tube with a static port built in. I was planning on
using the cabin as the alternate static source realizing there would be some
error introduced and also realizing it would only be used if the primary
failed. Thoughts??
Ross
6A -N9PT
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> |
Subject: | Engine Hanging Party Clearwater Florida RV-8A March 11 12:00 |
No
on
The time has finally arrived, time to mount that new 0-360A1A to the
airframe. Been waiting
a long time for this day. We plan on 12 Noon Sunday March 11 complete w/
hamburgers cokes,
and maybe some beers. I'm renting a engine hoist to do the deed. Here's how
to get here...
From HWY 60 and Gulf to Bay Blvd, go North on HWY 19 about 10 miles to Palm
Harbor, it's
just a little bit South of Tarpon Springs. After you pass Tampa Road going
north, two traffic
lights bring you to Alderman Road, turn left, West to Alt 19 (dead ends) go
North 1/8 Mi to
the top of a small hill, exit alt 19 bend to left adjacent to the Moose
Club. Go two streets
and turn left on Oceanview Av. It dead ends on a small island, go clockwise
and we are at the
3 o'clock position, on left at 123 Carlyle Drive, a stilt house. Park here
or across the street
at the vacant lot. Please RSVP by friday 3/9 please. If you cant's make nonn
we will be here all day.
Regards,
Doug Gardner -8A #80717
0-360/CS
Phone 727 784 2600
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fran Malczynski" <ebafm(at)yahoo.com> |
I have 2 Radio Shack DC brushless motors about 2.5" square mounted on my
glareshield appoximately 5.5" either side of the compass and about 3"
forward. I've tested them in my shop to see whether they would have any
effect on the compass and I see no effect whatsoever with both fans running.
Of course, once I get my entire panel powered up I may see some swing, but
right now I'm liking it. The motors are rated at 12V, 0.13A.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 - N594EF (finish work)
Olcott, NY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com>
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 12:19
Subject: RE: RV-List: Defrost
>
> Joe,
>
> Do you have a compass near the fan and if so, have you noticed any
> interaction with the compass. I planned on attaching a 3" or so DC
> brushless fan on the bottom of glare shield, blowing air through a few
> holes. This ends up placing the fan 6" or so from the pedestal compass
> mounted on top of the glare shield.
>
> Carl Froehlich
> RV-8A (systems install)
> Vienna, VA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of joe wiza
> Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 11:13 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Defrost
>
>
> Radio shack sells a 12volt fan for about ten bucks. I
> installed it in the glare shield works fine no scat
> tube, just picks up the warm air which comes in from
> the heater through the fire wall.
>
> RV6A 135hrs
>
> --- Randall Henderson wrote:
> >
> >
> > > Have any of you winter flyers seen the need for
> > installing defrost ducts
> > > and/or fans for the canopy windscreen?
> >
> > Absolutely. My -6 fogs up good on those cold
> > mornings. It clears up pretty
> > quickly upon takeoff and I've never had fogged
> > windows in flight, but
> > taxiing around I need to crack the canopy to clear
> > things out. I put a
> > defroster vent in the glareshield on the pilots side
> > with a SCAT tube going
> > down to the heater vent but its not connected there,
> > kind of just pointing
> > at the heater inlet, and it doesn't do any good. I
> > need to make a heat
> > shuttle and plumb it in. Others on the list have
> > reported using computer
> > fans in the past with good success -- check the
> > archives for more on that.
> >
> > Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
> > Portland, OR
> > http://www.edt.com/homewing
> >
> >
> > through
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> > Matronics!
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
Subject: | Re: static ports |
Vince and any others that are out there. I thought of this same thing a
month or so ago and whipped one up on my little jewelers lathe. I didn't
know how I was going to secure it in the fuselage (was thinking about using
proseal)but using the lock washer that came in the kit is the obvious
choice. Thanks for that tip Vince.
Since I'm a long way from flying still, I'd be glad to send one to someone
with a flying RV if they want to try it out and check out the accuracy. If
it works I'd be glad to make up a small batch run for those interested a
couple bucks + shipping or something. You can see a picture of it here
http://www.bmnellis.com/BuilderIdeas.htm at the bottom of the page.
Mike Nellis
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
RV-6 N699BM (res) Gooping up the tanks
Plainfield, IL (LOT)
http://bmnellis.com
>
> I plan to install a 3/4 inch long 3/16" dome head rivet using the nice
> little star washers that held them to my wing spar during shipping. That
> way no bucking is required.
>
> First I plan to chuck up the rivet in my drill press and use my dremel
tool
> (sort of a poor man's milling machine) to cut a few small grooves in the
> shank to give the hose a place to bite (i.e. make my own hose barbs).
Next
> drill a small hole through the center, install in the fuselage, and
connect
> your choice of hose.
>
> It certainly should be more secure than the pop rivet and glue that held
the
> hose on my RV-4's static system and hopefully will have similar accuracy
to
> the ugly pop rivet.
>
> Vince in Indiana
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BPattonsoa(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: ELT antenna location on RV-6 |
I put a rubber duckie type from a portable aircraft radio near the top of the
baggage bulkhead, offset about 6" to clear the sliding canopy rail. Antenna
faces forward, into the baggage area but is not in the way. The antenna
twist-off fitting is on the bulkhead, and the corrugated skins can be removed
with the antenna in place. The "control" panel for the ELT is mounted on the
top corrugated skin and the wires to it are a "phone" type that are easily
unplugged when the top skin is removed. The test switch can be reached, in a
stretch, from the pilots seat to meet the letter of the law. The ELT is
mounted just behind the elevator pushrod bellcrank.
Very unobtrusive setup for a useless piece of equipment.
Bruce Patton
596S -6A
Flying, even in the rain
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Subject: | Re: Static Checking |
Try: http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks/ssec.html
Dave
John wrote:
>
> I accidentally deleted the post that gave a web site which had detailed
> instructions/suggestions on checking your pitot/static system. Can some kind
> soul please give me that site address again? Thank you.
> John Rv6A Flying, Salida, CO
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Does an O-320 E2D, wide deck, fit an RV-4 cowling? |
Rob,
Thanks for the info. Now I "might" have an engine lined up.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: Mixture cable |
Shorten the carb arm, move the attach point to a hole closer to the
butterfly shaft.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
EAA Chapter 75 helping fellow aviators
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net>
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 3:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Mixture cable
>
> Also Van's cable has 2 1/8 inch of travel, on my engine, I needed 2 1/4
> inches. My FAA inspector who did a precheck for me, told me I must have
> 105% travel or he would not pass my airplane. He wants to see some spring
> back in both directions. I bought both a mixture and throttle cables from
> Van's, neither worked. I have gotten a cable from ACS that works for
> mixture, but I am yet to find a push/pull (non vernier) cable that will
> work for the throttle.
>
> Bob Busick
>
> >
> > Does anyone know what the length of the mixture cable is on an RV6A
> > using the stock center console and a 160hp 0320?
> > Also, what type end do I need? 10/32 or wire clamp?
> >
> > Van's lists two lengths 43 or 48"
> >
> > Ed Cole
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net> |
I think it is more useful if you plan to leave your airplane parked outdoors
in the weather.
My buddy with the hanger doesn't need one. My buddy that parks outside
often uses it while on the ground.
Tom Barnes -6 with two quicker builder friends.
----- Original Message -----
From: "dave ford" <dford(at)michweb.net>
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 1:01 AM
Subject: RV-List: Defrost
>
> Have any of you winter flyers seen the need for installing defrost ducts
> and/or fans for the canopy windscreen?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6 slider
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
Subject: | LE, tank, top skins joint |
All the replies that was posted on the list were great. I just like to add
another point:
My skins fit very nice and snug except on the bottom where I could only pull
the tank skin to be about 1/8" away from the main skins. Here's were you may
get surprised: I filed all other skins (yes, the snug ones!) on purpose to
get a ~1/16" gap between all skins.
Reason? I've seen skins that are super-snug and many of them have dime-sized
paint chips on both side of the skin joints. A small gap like yours is much
less noticeable than paint chips caused by skins touching in flight as a
result of flexing wings.
Good luck!
Are
RV-8 Pro-sealing left tank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Craig Paulson
Sent: February 26, 2001 10:00 AM
Subject: RV-List: LE, tank, top skins joint
<cpaulson@paulson-training.com>
Take a look at the link below.
http://home.earthlink.net/~ctpaulson/images/rv6a/rv-list/joint.htm
This is my leading edge, tank, inboard and outboard skin joint. As you
can see, I have a 1/8" gap between the tank and the outboard top skin.
This is due to my inaccurate fitting of the tank skin while drilling. I
suspect this is not an uncommon problem. I have good edge distance for
all of the skins in this area. How have others dealt with this problem?
I'm assuming it's a cosmetic issue only as I can't see any reasons for
decreased strength because of this gap. Any comments appreciated.
Craig Paulson
rv-6a, wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
Subject: | low oil pressure switch |
Just a thought on this.... I was considering adding this switch, but after I
installed that LED that Bob sends as a low voltage warning, I figured that
it sort of serves the same purpose - it blinks very brightly when the master
is turned on and the alternator is not running, and it seems to be a pretty
good reminder that the master is on although you may prefer an audible
warning....
Jerry Carter
I am using the low oil pressure switch that is available from 'lectric Bob.
This will be used to drive a buzzer to warn if the master is left on. I had
planned on using it on Van's 3-port manifold but the pressure switch is too
large to screw in. I've looked in ACS and Wicks for a reducer to no avail.
Any ideas on how to plumb these?
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage/finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Donald R. Eaves" <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com> |
Subject: | low oil pressure switch |
Jerry:
I have the same switch.
I found my fitting by taking it to Auto Zone with examples of the 2 sizes.
Don Eaves
RV6
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jerry Calvert
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 6:28 AM
Subject: RV-List: low oil pressure switch
I am using the low oil pressure switch that is available from 'lectric Bob.
This will be used to drive a buzzer to warn if the master is left on. I had
planned on using it on Van's 3-port manifold but the pressure switch is too
large to screw in. I've looked in ACS and Wicks for a reducer to no avail.
Any ideas on how to plumb these?
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage/finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
Subject: | Re: Mixture cable |
Van's cables have historically been too short...the mixture cable for the
RV-9A is the one I used..it's 45 inches long, and was perfect on my O-360
with Van's mixture bracket.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert Bristol" <bbristol(at)sympatico.ca> |
>
>I have 2 Radio Shack DC brushless motors about 2.5" square mounted on my
>glareshield appoximately 5.5" either side of the compass and about 3"
>forward. I've tested them in my shop to see whether they would have any
>effect on the compass and I see no effect whatsoever with both fans
running.
>
>Of course, once I get my entire panel powered up I may see some swing, but
>right now I'm liking it. The motors are rated at 12V, 0.13A.
>
>Fran Malczynski
-------------------
I am using two 2 inch fan motors as well and have them mounted similarly
to Fran. My units are 12V and 0.07 amps with a rating of 56 CFM (IIRC). They
do not affect my glareshield mounted compass and have been quite effective
when required. They are not plumbed to the cabin heat and simply circulate
the warm air that is trapped under the instrument panel. Total cost of the 2
fans and Home Depot (aluminum soffit) vents was about $20.
Bob Bristol
RV6A C-GCTZ 220 hours
Ontario, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-4 canopy crack |
From: | Jody J Edwards <jodyedwards(at)juno.com> |
Noel,
Hi. I saw your discussion about repairing canopies. I think the main
reason builders attempt to do this is because the canopy costs so much to
buy and ship.
I started a canopy manufacturing business about a year ago. My company is
called Todd's Canopies. So far all the canopies I have sold have been for
composite, canard type aircraft.
A builder in Ft. Lauderdale, FL is building an RV-8. He received his
canopy and let me look at it and take measurements.
I reproduced it perfectly.
An RV-4 builder from Illinois cracked his canopy and sent it to me to
reproduce. I am working on the tooling for this.
I can manufacture RV-8 canopies now and will be able to manufacture RV-4
canopies soon.
Price? $450 for clear and $600 for a light grey tint. This price includes
the crate and shipping in the Continental US.
If one of my canopies crack during the installation process, I replace it
for free.
Am at my friend Jody Edward's computer cruising his RV list.
Check out my web site: www.kgarden.com/todd
Todd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: low oil pressure switch |
Don,
Wouldn't you know it....I was just at Auto Zone this weekend buying some
thread sealer in the aviation section! If I would have known, I could have
picked up the fitting too!
Thanks for the tip.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage/finish kit
----- Original Message -----
From: Donald R. Eaves <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com>
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 8:38 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: low oil pressure switch
>
> Jerry:
> I have the same switch.
> I found my fitting by taking it to Auto Zone with examples of the 2 sizes.
>
> Don Eaves
> RV6
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jerry Calvert
> Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 6:28 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: low oil pressure switch
>
>
> I am using the low oil pressure switch that is available from 'lectric
Bob.
> This will be used to drive a buzzer to warn if the master is left on. I
had
> planned on using it on Van's 3-port manifold but the pressure switch is
too
> large to screw in. I've looked in ACS and Wicks for a reducer to no
avail.
> Any ideas on how to plumb these?
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok
> -6 fuselage/finish kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: oil filter cutter |
In a message dated 2/26/01 11:04:13 AM Pacific Standard Time,
rv6flier(at)yahoo.com writes:
<< The AirWolf one is the one I have and it is the best VALUE that I could
find. Yes there are cheaper and more expensive but IMHO this is the one
that is as good as the most expensive one.
I only have one airplane that I maintain. A friend that maintains 5
aircraft has this one and I agree with him that it is the Best Value. >>
The KRC1203 that I got from Chief works great and it's half the price of the
AirWolf.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: low oil pressure switch |
Jerry,
I have B&C's regulator with the low warning light too. I already have the
buzzer and added a switch to my panel to turn it off when I get tired of
hearing it squeal, so guess I will go ahead with it. Donald Eaves clued me
in a source for the fitting I'm needing so I will surge forward to the next
problem.
Thanks for responding,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage/finish kit
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Carter <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com>
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 10:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: low oil pressure switch
>
> Just a thought on this.... I was considering adding this switch, but after
I
> installed that LED that Bob sends as a low voltage warning, I figured that
> it sort of serves the same purpose - it blinks very brightly when the
master
> is turned on and the alternator is not running, and it seems to be a
pretty
> good reminder that the master is on although you may prefer an audible
> warning....
>
>
> Jerry Carter
>
>
> I am using the low oil pressure switch that is available from 'lectric
Bob.
> This will be used to drive a buzzer to warn if the master is left on. I
had
> planned on using it on Van's 3-port manifold but the pressure switch is
too
> large to screw in. I've looked in ACS and Wicks for a reducer to no
avail.
> Any ideas on how to plumb these?
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok
> -6 fuselage/finish kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
I had the same problem 'cept the throttle cable was too short also. So I
purchased the alternate throttle cable(2" vernier knob) from vans and was
plenty long enough. But, I still find the throw on the mix cable is just
short. I've tried the acs and still no joy. Then I thought the mix arm on my
carb was somehow different, but after purchasing an only crashed once
replacement arm from an A1A at wentworth they seemed to be the same. I've
given up and will order a custom cable. Anybody know a cable manufacturer
that can produce a cable in less than 6 months??
Steve
Also Van's cable has 2 1/8 inch of travel, on my engine, I needed 2 1/4
inches. My FAA inspector who did a precheck for me, told me I must have
105% travel or he would not pass my airplane. He wants to see some spring
back in both directions. I bought both a mixture and throttle cables from
Van's, neither worked. I have gotten a cable from ACS that works for
mixture, but I am yet to find a push/pull (non vernier) cable that will
work for the throttle.
Bob Busick
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Mixture cable |
Try CableCraft at, http://controls.tuthill.com/cablecraft/Gen_Air/
Bruce
Glasair III
Steven DiNieri wrote:
>
> I had the same problem 'cept the throttle cable was too short also. So I
> purchased the alternate throttle cable(2" vernier knob) from vans and was
> plenty long enough. But, I still find the throw on the mix cable is just
> short. I've tried the acs and still no joy. Then I thought the mix arm on my
> carb was somehow different, but after purchasing an only crashed once
> replacement arm from an A1A at wentworth they seemed to be the same. I've
> given up and will order a custom cable. Anybody know a cable manufacturer
> that can produce a cable in less than 6 months??
> Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
Subject: | Re: static ports & Piper Pitot Tube |
----- Original Message -----
From: Ross Mickey <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 3:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: static ports & Piper Pitot Tube
>
> I have a Piper pitot tube with a static port built in. I was planning on
> using the cabin as the alternate static source realizing there would be
some
> error introduced and also realizing it would only be used if the primary
> failed. Thoughts??
>
> Ross
> 6A -N9PT
>
Hi Ross
I am also using a Piper pitot tube off a Aztec and Vans static system.
I believe that if you measure the angle on the bottom face of the Piper
pitot tubes you will find that they are made with different angles for
different models of Piper aircraft. I am not sure how accurate mine will be.
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
(wiring inst pnl)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Mixture cable |
I found that Van's cable were long enogh and that as long as the cables
aren't to short, the exact lenghth is not critical. I was not thrilled by
Van's cables so I have ordered some 48" ones from ACS. These are like the
750's with 3+ inches of travel but have the treaded bulkhead ends instead of
the clamp style. I haven't recieved them yet.
05-09948 A-1760 BLACK 48" $61.75
05-10048 A-1760 RED 48" $61.75
05-10148 A-1760 BLUE 48" $61.75
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Static Checking (FARs) |
Okay here's one for all you FAR geeks (yeah I know I'm one too...): It looks
to me from FAR 91.411 that it's perfectly legal for us in the experimental
world (the actual builders anyway) to perform and sign off our own
pitot-static tests. Anyone disagree?
Assuming that's true, now all I have to do is wade through all that stuff on
Kevin Horton's site, make a test set-up and do the thing. Easier said than
done I'm sure, but then once it's done it seems like it would save some $$
every 2 years especially for IFR. Thoughts?
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
Here's a question for everyone debating which static port to use- Wouldn't
the most elegant solution (especially for those building IFR birds) be to
install Warren Gretz's heated pitot/static system? That way, there is no
"extra" plumbing to do, no worry about flush or domed ports, and the heated
system means no problems with accidental ice.
Has anyone installed and used one of these, and how well do they do the job?
I'm about to open my wing crates, so I guess it's time for me to think about
this stuff!
Ed Winne
RV-9A Wings (almost)
Palmyra PA
________________________________________________________________________________
Here's a question for everyone debating which static port to use- Wouldn't
the most elegant solution (especially for those building IFR birds) be to
install Warren Gretz's heated pitot/static system? That way, there is no
"extra" plumbing to do, no worry about flush or domed ports, and the heated
system means no problems with accidental ice.
Has anyone installed and used one of these, and how well do they do the job?
I'm about to open my wing crates, so I guess it's time for me to think about
this stuff!
Ed Winne
RV-9A Wings (almost)
Palmyra PA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
Subject: | Static Checking (FARs) |
Well I guess I must be a FAR, CAR, CAA geek too :) But at least in Canada,
you must be a CAR geek (and follow the rules) to be able to use a homebuilt
aircraft under the IFR regulations.
You are absolutely right Randall, as a homebuilder you can sign off your own
work. However... I'm not sure about the US, but in Canada a homebuilt
aircraft must be signed off in the same manner as a certified aircraft in
order to be IFR certified.
So in conclusion, I think you will be ok for VFR but not for IFR by signing
off your own pitot-static test.
I am frequently consulting with my inspector and the government to make sure
my RV-8 will pass for IFR as I add lights, doublers for antennas, autopilot,
pitot etc.
If anyone know differently, please correct me. I know there are many IFR
approved US RV's out there but also think that Canadian reg's are more
stringent.
Are
RV-8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randall
Henderson
Sent: March 1, 2001 2:33 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Static Checking (FARs)
Okay here's one for all you FAR geeks (yeah I know I'm one too...): It looks
to me from FAR 91.411 that it's perfectly legal for us in the experimental
world (the actual builders anyway) to perform and sign off our own
pitot-static tests. Anyone disagree?
Assuming that's true, now all I have to do is wade through all that stuff on
Kevin Horton's site, make a test set-up and do the thing. Easier said than
done I'm sure, but then once it's done it seems like it would save some $$
every 2 years especially for IFR. Thoughts?
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Static/Transponder Checking (FARs) |
How about the transponder/encoder check? If properly equipped, can a
non-certified person do this for an experimental? The way I read the FAR's,
no. It says something about a certified technician being required. Anyone
know for sure?
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ
Pearland, Texas
-----Original Message-----
From: Are Barstad [mailto:abarstad(at)bconnex.net]
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 6:46 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Static Checking (FARs)
Well I guess I must be a FAR, CAR, CAA geek too :) But at least in Canada,
you must be a CAR geek (and follow the rules) to be able to use a homebuilt
aircraft under the IFR regulations.
You are absolutely right Randall, as a homebuilder you can sign off your own
work. However... I'm not sure about the US, but in Canada a homebuilt
aircraft must be signed off in the same manner as a certified aircraft in
order to be IFR certified.
So in conclusion, I think you will be ok for VFR but not for IFR by signing
off your own pitot-static test.
I am frequently consulting with my inspector and the government to make sure
my RV-8 will pass for IFR as I add lights, doublers for antennas, autopilot,
pitot etc.
If anyone know differently, please correct me. I know there are many IFR
approved US RV's out there but also think that Canadian reg's are more
stringent.
Are
RV-8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randall
Henderson
Sent: March 1, 2001 2:33 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Static Checking (FARs)
Okay here's one for all you FAR geeks (yeah I know I'm one too...): It looks
to me from FAR 91.411 that it's perfectly legal for us in the experimental
world (the actual builders anyway) to perform and sign off our own
pitot-static tests. Anyone disagree?
Assuming that's true, now all I have to do is wade through all that stuff on
Kevin Horton's site, make a test set-up and do the thing. Easier said than
done I'm sure, but then once it's done it seems like it would save some $$
every 2 years especially for IFR. Thoughts?
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 canopy crack |
Jody,
Thanks for letting Todd "cruise" the RV-list and provide us with a
viable alternative ($450 canopies).
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Vacuum pump cover |
The fuselage is at the airport, the wings are getting prepared for paint.
and the last final details are all that's left. I decided to not put in a
vacuum system and haven't got a cover for the blank hole in the accessory
cover on my 320-e2d.
If anyone has one to sell let me know.
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Fuselage done, wiring done, fuselage painted, wings being preped
- just have to put it together and fly it.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "skybolt-aviator" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: oil filter cutter |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 4:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: oil filter cutter
>
> I sell filter cutters for $43.04 plus UPS, what the hay, I will throw in
> the UPS for RV-listers
>
> These are machined aluminum and will last a lifetime. They will cut
> anything but the filters with the stud protruding.
That figures, mine has the stud.
Ollie&Lorene Washburn
RV6-A,N795LW,@FD77.
O-360,180HP,C/S,300+hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
Subject: | Static Checking (FARs) |
The regs are the quite specific for IFR. The plane must pass the required
tests done by a certified avionics shop to be able to fly in the system. You
cannot sign off your own static system test(This includes the altimeter
accuracy test) just like you cannot sign off your own transponder test.
VFR- have at it. Just don't hit anything.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Are Barstad
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 6:46 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Static Checking (FARs)
Well I guess I must be a FAR, CAR, CAA geek too :) But at least in Canada,
you must be a CAR geek (and follow the rules) to be able to use a homebuilt
aircraft under the IFR regulations.
You are absolutely right Randall, as a homebuilder you can sign off your own
work. However... I'm not sure about the US, but in Canada a homebuilt
aircraft must be signed off in the same manner as a certified aircraft in
order to be IFR certified.
So in conclusion, I think you will be ok for VFR but not for IFR by signing
off your own pitot-static test.
I am frequently consulting with my inspector and the government to make sure
my RV-8 will pass for IFR as I add lights, doublers for antennas, autopilot,
pitot etc.
If anyone know differently, please correct me. I know there are many IFR
approved US RV's out there but also think that Canadian reg's are more
stringent.
Are
RV-8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randall
Henderson
Sent: March 1, 2001 2:33 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Static Checking (FARs)
Okay here's one for all you FAR geeks (yeah I know I'm one too...): It looks
to me from FAR 91.411 that it's perfectly legal for us in the experimental
world (the actual builders anyway) to perform and sign off our own
pitot-static tests. Anyone disagree?
Assuming that's true, now all I have to do is wade through all that stuff on
Kevin Horton's site, make a test set-up and do the thing. Easier said than
done I'm sure, but then once it's done it seems like it would save some $$
every 2 years especially for IFR. Thoughts?
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sandra Baggett <accuracy(at)earthlink.net> |
I have a Toyota alternator #R-018366 and also has a #9760218-454. I want
to install this on my RV6A which has a Lycoming IO360. Is there any way
to reverse the rotation of this alternator or does it matter which way
it turns. Any help will be greatly appreciated
Bob Baggett
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "skybolt-aviator" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: low oil pressure switch |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com>
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 11:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: low oil pressure switch
> Jerry Carter
>
>
> This will be used to drive a buzzer to warn if the master is left on. >
>
> If you have strobe lites or rotating beacon never turn them off. Best
master sw. warning you can get,cause someone will always tell you you left
the master on.
Ollie&Lorene Washburn
RV6-A,N795LW,@FD77.
O-360,180HP,C/S,300+hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
Subject: | static system leak test |
I got to change the subject. I have Vans static system & been trying
to
run a leak test on the system.
My Glasair buddy suggested I test it so I don't have a $50 per hour
technition trying to tear up the plane.
We found leaks. I thought his technique was cool. He puts tape over the
static holes, then use a needle to punch a hole in one side. Get a second
piece of tape ready to seal off the pump hole. I used my vaccum hand
pump.
If you don't have your vacuum pump handy, do this. It's cheap, easy and
somewhat disgusting.
Tape over one static port. Put your lips over the other one and suck.
After your buddy in the cockpit stops making lewd comments have him call out
the altimeter readings. Stick your tongue in the static hole when the
desired altitude is reeached and stay that way for a minute to see if the
altitude leaks down.
Test the pitot tube the same way.
If you're lucky you won't find any leaks and nobody will have remembered to
bring a camera.
Vince in Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Static Checking (FARs) |
I'm all for saving $'s and I have performed the static systems test myself
prior to flight (details in archives). However, I believe the altitude
reporting equipment tests of 91.411 and especially the ATC transponder tests
of 91.413 are well beyond the scope of us homebuilders -- not due to skill
but directly due to equipment costs. That gadget that checks the transponder
and Mode C operation is a costly little box! Since the test facility has to
hook up the box to the static system anyway, the incremental cost of
checking out the static system is tiny.
Am I incorrect in assuming that we still need the transponder tests every
two years?
Note by the way that the VFR test is easy to pass. The IFR test is far more
stringent.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 47 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Randall Henderson <randallh(at)home.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 2:07 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Static Checking (FARs)
>
>Okay here's one for all you FAR geeks (yeah I know I'm one too...): It
looks
>to me from FAR 91.411 that it's perfectly legal for us in the experimental
>world (the actual builders anyway) to perform and sign off our own
>pitot-static tests. Anyone disagree?
>
>Assuming that's true, now all I have to do is wade through all that stuff
on
>Kevin Horton's site, make a test set-up and do the thing. Easier said than
>done I'm sure, but then once it's done it seems like it would save some $$
>every 2 years especially for IFR. Thoughts?
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
>Portland, OR
>http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Static Checking (FARs) |
What you say is true unless you plan on having your aircraft IFR ready.
Then you must have the Pitot Static system checked with a certified
calibrated system. You could make your own but the cost of calibration for
the gauges would probably not make it worth it.
MIke Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
>From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Static Checking (FARs)
>Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 23:32:33 -0800
>
>
>Okay here's one for all you FAR geeks (yeah I know I'm one too...): It
>looks
>to me from FAR 91.411 that it's perfectly legal for us in the experimental
>world (the actual builders anyway) to perform and sign off our own
>pitot-static tests. Anyone disagree?
>
>Assuming that's true, now all I have to do is wade through all that stuff
>on
>Kevin Horton's site, make a test set-up and do the thing. Easier said than
>done I'm sure, but then once it's done it seems like it would save some $$
>every 2 years especially for IFR. Thoughts?
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
>Portland, OR
>http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Vacuum pump cover |
Check with Klaus at Lightspeed...
http://www.pro.lightspeedengineering.com/index.htm
Tel: 805 933 3299
e-mail klaus(at)lightspeedengineering.com
Ross
> I decided to not put in a
> vacuum system and haven't got a cover for the blank hole in the accessory
> cover on my 320-e2d.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Vacuum pump cover |
Ignore my last email. I just got my Lightspeed electronic ignition and
there was a cover for the mag hole accidentally included so this was on my
mind when I read your email. I have a cover for the vacuum pad for my O-360
A1A that the factory had on it. I don't know if it is the same size but you
are welcome to it.
Ross
> I decided to not put in a
> vacuum system and haven't got a cover for the blank hole in the accessory
> cover on my 320-e2d.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Static Checking (FARs) |
Mike,
Could you please comment on the transponder and encoder checks for VFR?
Thanks.
Dennis Persyk N600DP
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 11:44 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Static Checking (FARs)
>
>What you say is true unless you plan on having your aircraft IFR ready.
>Then you must have the Pitot Static system checked with a certified
>calibrated system. You could make your own but the cost of calibration for
>the gauges would probably not make it worth it.
>
>MIke Robertson
>RV-8A N809RS
>
>
>>From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>To:
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Static Checking (FARs)
>>Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 23:32:33 -0800
>>
>>
>>Okay here's one for all you FAR geeks (yeah I know I'm one too...): It
>>looks
>>to me from FAR 91.411 that it's perfectly legal for us in the experimental
>>world (the actual builders anyway) to perform and sign off our own
>>pitot-static tests. Anyone disagree?
>>
>>Assuming that's true, now all I have to do is wade through all that stuff
>>on
>>Kevin Horton's site, make a test set-up and do the thing. Easier said than
>>done I'm sure, but then once it's done it seems like it would save some $$
>>every 2 years especially for IFR. Thoughts?
>>
>>Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
>>Portland, OR
>>http://www.edt.com/homewing
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jakent(at)unison.ie |
Subject: | RV List Static Port Thread |
Hi dedicated scroungers! The ultimate (and cheapest and technically superior way
to do your static ports is:
1: Go to your nearest light aircraft maintenance faciity.
2: Find the junkyard (pile of broken/unfixable aircraft)
3: Locate the Grumman/men (very hard to fix, honeycomb structure etc).
4: Liberate the static ports and pipework (and some eyeball vents for good measure.
5: Negotiate a good price for this dirty looking stuff.
6:Clean it up and you have a beautiful system, all aircraft quality, external 'almost'
flush mounted- it should not have the alleged error of the fully flush
mounted vents and is a breeze to install (one AN nut and lock washer).The vents
polish up very nicely if they have not been damaged or attacked by the dread
tin-worm.
I did just this and it isworth the effort.
John Kent RV4 finish kit ready to fly any year now!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Oops, I dimpled an extra hole |
In a message dated 2/26/01 1:51:27 PM Pacific Standard Time,
moserr(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
>
>
> I had no problems dimpling all of the rudder and hs skin, until one of the
> last holes. I hammered on the dimpling tool a little too quick and found
> myself
> with a new hole about 3/32" away from the edge of the original hole. I was
> able
> to flatten out the unwanted dimple, but the hole is still there. How should
> I
> handle such a mistake? Does the new hole need a rivet in it or is it ok? It
> does
> not have much distance from the original hole.
>
>
>
If you are a perfectionist...throw away your work and start over
If you are not put a rivit in it and use "Bondo"
________________________________________________________________________________
> Here's a question for everyone debating which static port to use- Wouldn't
> the most elegant solution (especially for those building IFR birds) be to
> install Warren Gretz's heated pitot/static system? That way, there is no
> "extra" plumbing to do, no worry about flush or domed ports, and the
heated
> system means no problems with accidental ice.
>
> Has anyone installed and used one of these, and how well do they do the
job?
> I'm about to open my wing crates, so I guess it's time for me to think
about
> this stuff!
>
> Ed Winne
> RV-9A Wings (almost)
> Palmyra PA
Indeed the Gretz solution is simple and elegant, and was my plan. Several
builders (Tim Lewis, and I can't remember who else) tested this however and
found significant error. Based on their experience I installed the stock
Van's static system in addition, which is what I will use for starters. At
some point in the future I'll probably plumb in the wing static port and do
some xperimenting. Check the archives for more... there should be lots
there.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, transporting to the hangar within a couple of weeks
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Subject: | Re: Static Checking (FARs) |
Yes, please do. Also, can a non-builder/repairman do the
work like he can normal maintenance?
Charlie
Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
>
> Mike,
> Could you please comment on the transponder and encoder checks for VFR?
> Thanks.
> Dennis Persyk N600DP
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 11:44 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Static Checking (FARs)
>
> >
> >What you say is true unless you plan on having your aircraft IFR ready.
> >Then you must have the Pitot Static system checked with a certified
> >calibrated system. You could make your own but the cost of calibration for
> >the gauges would probably not make it worth it.
> >
> >MIke Robertson
> >RV-8A N809RS
> >
> >
> >>From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
> >>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >>To:
> >>Subject: Re: RV-List: Static Checking (FARs)
> >>Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 23:32:33 -0800
> >>
> >>
> >>Okay here's one for all you FAR geeks (yeah I know I'm one too...): It
> >>looks
> >>to me from FAR 91.411 that it's perfectly legal for us in the experimental
> >>world (the actual builders anyway) to perform and sign off our own
> >>pitot-static tests. Anyone disagree?
> >>
> >>Assuming that's true, now all I have to do is wade through all that stuff
> >>on
> >>Kevin Horton's site, make a test set-up and do the thing. Easier said than
> >>done I'm sure, but then once it's done it seems like it would save some $$
> >>every 2 years especially for IFR. Thoughts?
> >>
> >>Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
> >>Portland, OR
> >>http://www.edt.com/homewing
> >>
> >>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: MIKE SEAGER TRAINNING |
Dear Listers
Mikes schedule is now full for the week prior to S-N-F.
If any openings come up i'll let you know.
if you are participating and would like a final copy of the schedule, please
provide a fax # and i'll get it right out to you.
thanks
scott
tampa
rv6a still finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> |
I have a toyota alternator and have been running it
backward 18 months. So far no prob
Joe
RV6A
--- Sandra Baggett wrote:
>
>
> I have a Toyota alternator #R-018366 and also has a
> #9760218-454. I want
> to install this on my RV6A which has a Lycoming
> IO360. Is there any way
> to reverse the rotation of this alternator or does
> it matter which way
> it turns. Any help will be greatly appreciated
> Bob Baggett
> RV-6A
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Could someoene please send em the website for the gentleman that was making
the canopies for the cozies and the rv aircraft
thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | tank baffle shims |
Am I correct in that the shims are only temporary-to make sure baffle is not
sitting to low? AND, I assume that the shims can be made from anything, as
long as they don't compress? The pieces of scrap bundle I got with wings (6,
pre punched), would it be that these were sent for shim purposes. Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RV8bldr" <RV8bldr(at)email.msn.com> |
Try
http://www.kgarden.com/todd/
Russ
RV-8 Emp
SoCal
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of CW9371(at)AOL.COM
> Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 2:00 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: canopies
>
>
>
> Could someoene please send em the website for the gentleman that
> was making
> the canopies for the cozies and the rv aircraft
>
> thanks
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I haven't received the preview plans set so I don't know why T-905 Attach
Bracket is the shape it is. (This bracket attaches to the inboard leading
edge of the fuel tank and estends into the wing root/fuselage area.) Are we
just trying to remove extra material or is the shape critical for some
reason?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: Tail done, working on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Subject: | RV Related MSN Web Community |
At the risk of having too many forums I have started a MSN Web Community
page called RV Builders Central at MSN.com. I'm going to post some of my
extra building photos and maybe my building logs. If anyone uses MSN or
Hotmail or anyone else for that matter feel free to join and post your
photos and ideas as well.
Not trying to compete with anyone, just give yet another convenient venue to
share information about building RV's.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Adminstrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
"Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant,
for those who foolishly think that somehow they
can achieve success without paying the price."
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | tank baffle rib question |
In viewing Mike Nellis tank construction I see I did the same as he, in that
I drilled both end ribs with 1/8 holes and 8 holes instead of 11. Can anyone
see any reason at all that I cannot proceed by using universal 1/8 rivets for
these two ribs???
Thanks Gents, Bob in Ark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: tank baffle rib question |
Excuse me... I am re: to the inboard and outboard tank ribs when I say, "end
ribs."
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Sun and Fun Transition Training |
Listners,
I just read the message stating that Mike Seager is booked up prior to
S & F. If anyone is interested, I still have some openings during the week of
S & F. I have a RV6
and am a duly licenced CFI with the exemption to provide training in my
aircraft. I tenatively plan on arriving Monday and am scheduling training
flights out of Plant City Airport which is about 7 miles west of Lakeland.
If interested, reply off line with your needs so I can put together a
schedule.
John Henley, N6LD, 500 Hrs RV Time
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | RV-9A: T-905 Attach Bracket |
I haven't received the preview plans set so I don't know why T-905 Attach
Bracket is the shape it is. (This bracket attaches to the inboard leading
edge of the fuel tank and estends into the wing root/fuselage area.) Are we
just trying to remove extra material or is the shape critical for some
reason?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: Working on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: tank baffle shims |
Bob,
Correct. You can see what I used for shims in the tanks section of my wedsite
if you want.
Eric Newton
RV-6A
www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Builder Assistance available!! |
Builder Assistance is now available in Wichita Kansas. Wiechman Aircraft
Inc. has an opening available for any RV-series aircraft. Can help build
entire kit to flying condition or help with any stage along the way. I am an
Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic with Inspection Authorization and have more
than 12 years experience with building metal aircraft. If you need
assistance, please call Todd at 316-721-5670 and we can discuss your
specific needs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Subject: | Re: Static Checking (FARs) |
According to 91.413, your transponder must be tested every 2 years by a certified
repair station.
Dave
Charlie and Tupper England wrote:
>
> Yes, please do. Also, can a non-builder/repairman do the
> work like he can normal maintenance?
>
> Charlie
>
> Dennis Persyk wrote:
> >
> >
> > Mike,
> > Could you please comment on the transponder and encoder checks for VFR?
> > Thanks.
> > Dennis Persyk N600DP
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Date: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 11:44 AM
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Static Checking (FARs)
> >
> > >
> > >What you say is true unless you plan on having your aircraft IFR ready.
> > >Then you must have the Pitot Static system checked with a certified
> > >calibrated system. You could make your own but the cost of calibration for
> > >the gauges would probably not make it worth it.
> > >
> > >MIke Robertson
> > >RV-8A N809RS
> > >
> > >
> > >>From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
> > >>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >>To:
> > >>Subject: Re: RV-List: Static Checking (FARs)
> > >>Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 23:32:33 -0800
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>Okay here's one for all you FAR geeks (yeah I know I'm one too...): It
> > >>looks
> > >>to me from FAR 91.411 that it's perfectly legal for us in the experimental
> > >>world (the actual builders anyway) to perform and sign off our own
> > >>pitot-static tests. Anyone disagree?
> > >>
> > >>Assuming that's true, now all I have to do is wade through all that stuff
> > >>on
> > >>Kevin Horton's site, make a test set-up and do the thing. Easier said than
> > >>done I'm sure, but then once it's done it seems like it would save some $$
> > >>every 2 years especially for IFR. Thoughts?
> > >>
> > >>Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
> > >>Portland, OR
> > >>http://www.edt.com/homewing
> > >>
> > >>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | warren gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
Subject: | Re: Manual Elevator Trim |
Check out my website for a kit to change from manual trim to electric trim.
With Bill's system this would be excellent!
My web address is http://www.gretzaero.com
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
William Davis wrote:
>
> Bernie,
>
> Why don't you do what I did, use a low range differential press. switch to
> automatically switch your trim servo into low speed when above a certain
> airspeed (in my case-120MPH). TheD/P switch ties into the pitot and static
> lines. It works great. Steve Ave incorporated this into his 8 also.
>
> Bill RV-8 N48WD
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "BERNIE KERR" <KERRJB(at)email.msn.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 7:13 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Manual Elevator Trim
>
> >
> > Hi Jack,
> >
> > When I did 60WM, originally ordered manual trim. Changed to electric to
> > eliminate the console, which is a good idea. I have not been really
> > satisfied with the electric. If you slow it down to where
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
Bob
It does not care which way it turns.
Joe Hine
RV4 (honda alternator turning backwards)
>
> I have a Toyota alternator #R-018366 and also has a #9760218-454. I want
> to install this on my RV6A which has a Lycoming IO360. Is there any way
> to reverse the rotation of this alternator or does it matter which way
> it turns. Any help will be greatly appreciated
> Bob Baggett
> RV-6A
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Static Checking (FARs) |
>
>If I may add to the comments here, it is true that
>flying vfr you can certify the system yourself however
>I have seen when flying in class b with such a system
>when compared to the gps data there has been a lot of
>errors on these systems.
One small comment - I wouldn't be at all surprised to see significant
differences between GPS indicated altitude, and the barometric
altitude from an altimeter, because they are measuring very different
things. The GPS altitude is going to be fairly close to the actual
altitude, plus or minus the vertical error in the GPS signal. GPS
vertical accuracy is on the order of 40 ft with the selective
availability turned off. This is a one sigma value from
<http://www.cnde.iastate.edu/staff/swormley/gps/check_accuracy.html>.
[This error can be expressed in a lot of different ways (one sigma,
three sigma, 95% probability, etc.), and the declared value will
depend on the exact way that it is expressed.]
But altitude from your altimeter is simply a measurement of the local
air pressure converted to an altitude, with a small correction for
the variation in the local pressure (altimeter setting). If the
temperature of the air mass differs from standard temperatures you
can end up with a big difference between the indicated altitude and
the true altitude. This error can easily be more than 1000 ft in
some conditions. But, every one's altimeter will have the same
temperature error, so it doesn't matter from a traffic separation
point of view. It can be significant from a terrain clearance point
of view, and hopefully people who fly in mountainous terrain in
winter weather are up to speed on this stuff. For more info, see:
<http://www.mmac.jccbi.gov/afs/afs420/colddonpate/AC-coldb.pdf>
<http://www.faa.gov/ATpubs/AIM/Chap7/aim0702.html>
Of course we still have the instrument error (hopefully on the order
of 50 ft or less), and the static source position error.
Bottom line - differences between GPS altitude and barometric
altitude are to be expected. They don't necessarily mean that you
have a problem with your aircraft's static system or the quality of
the "certification".
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
>
>> Here's a question for everyone debating which static port to use- Wouldn't
>> the most elegant solution (especially for those building IFR birds) be to
>> install Warren Gretz's heated pitot/static system? That way, there is no
>> "extra" plumbing to do, no worry about flush or domed ports, and the
>heated
>> system means no problems with accidental ice.
>>
>> Has anyone installed and used one of these, and how well do they do the
>job?
>> I'm about to open my wing crates, so I guess it's time for me to think
>about
>> this stuff!
>>
>> Ed Winne
>> RV-9A Wings (almost)
>> Palmyra PA
>
>
>Indeed the Gretz solution is simple and elegant, and was my plan. Several
>builders (Tim Lewis, and I can't remember who else) tested this however and
>found significant error. Based on their experience I installed the stock
>Van's static system in addition, which is what I will use for starters. At
>some point in the future I'll probably plumb in the wing static port and do
>some xperimenting. Check the archives for more... there should be lots
>there.
>
>Randy Lervold
>RV-8, #80500, transporting to the hangar within a couple of weeks
>www.rv-8.com
>Home Wing VAF
>
Go to the archives and do a search on Heated Pitot tube mounting
brackets. Look for the original message in that thread on Apr. 12,
2000 by Tim Lewis. He calculated that he was getting about a 170 ft
altitude error and an 11 kt airspeed error at about 150 KCAS using
the static source on the pitot tube. He got somewhat better (but not
great) accuracy from the pop rivet static ports (about 100 ft
altitude error and 7 kt airspeed error).
It is interesting to note that his IAS was higher than the CAS. ASIs
simply measure the difference between the pitot pressure and the
static pressure. Tim's ASI is seeing too high a difference between
these two pressures, which means that his static source is reading a
lower pressure than the true value. The protruding pop rivet makes
the air accelerate around it, which lowers the pressure. The
accuracy on Tim's aircraft would likely be improved by polishing a
bit off the pop rivets to make them flatter (or maybe even trying the
flush static ports).
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: static ports |
Mike,
I think the concept is good, but you'll find that every plane will
need a slightly different rivet height to give the smallest error.
Simplest way to accuracy might be to start out with a fairly big
rivet (3/16 is probably a good bet) and do the flight testing to
check the error. Use a small scotchbrite wheel to flatten the head
incrementally until you get the error near zero at what ever speed
you are most interested in. You'd probably want to disconnect the
static lines before polishing the rivet down to keep from getting
crud in the system.
You ask a question about the hole size in the rivet. I'd just take a
look at a light aircraft with aft fuselage static ports to see what
size they use. 1/16 sounds like a winner to me.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
>Vince and any others that are out there. I thought of this same thing a
>month or so ago and whipped one up on my little jewelers lathe. I didn't
>know how I was going to secure it in the fuselage (was thinking about using
>proseal)but using the lock washer that came in the kit is the obvious
>choice. Thanks for that tip Vince.
>
>Since I'm a long way from flying still, I'd be glad to send one to someone
>with a flying RV if they want to try it out and check out the accuracy. If
>it works I'd be glad to make up a small batch run for those interested a
>couple bucks + shipping or something. You can see a picture of it here
>http://www.bmnellis.com/BuilderIdeas.htm at the bottom of the page.
>
>Mike Nellis
>Stinson 108-2 N9666K
>RV-6 N699BM (res) Gooping up the tanks
>Plainfield, IL (LOT)
>http://bmnellis.com
>
>>
>> I plan to install a 3/4 inch long 3/16" dome head rivet using the nice
>> little star washers that held them to my wing spar during shipping. That
>> way no bucking is required.
>>
>> First I plan to chuck up the rivet in my drill press and use my dremel
>tool
>> (sort of a poor man's milling machine) to cut a few small grooves in the
>> shank to give the hose a place to bite (i.e. make my own hose barbs).
>Next
>> drill a small hole through the center, install in the fuselage, and
>connect
>> your choice of hose.
>>
>> It certainly should be more secure than the pop rivet and glue that held
>the
>> hose on my RV-4's static system and hopefully will have similar accuracy
>to
>> the ugly pop rivet.
>>
> > Vince in Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: static ports & Piper Pitot Tube |
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Ross Mickey <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
>To:
>Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 3:13 PM
>Subject: RV-List: static ports & Piper Pitot Tube
>
>
>>
>> I have a Piper pitot tube with a static port built in. I was planning on
>> using the cabin as the alternate static source realizing there would be
>some
>> error introduced and also realizing it would only be used if the primary
>> failed. Thoughts??
>>
>> Ross
>> 6A -N9PT
>>
>
>Hi Ross
>
>I am also using a Piper pitot tube off a Aztec and Vans static system.
>
>I believe that if you measure the angle on the bottom face of the Piper
>pitot tubes you will find that they are made with different angles for
>different models of Piper aircraft. I am not sure how accurate mine will be.
>
>George McNutt
>Langley, B.C.
>(wiring inst pnl)
>
There are indeed several different Piper pitot-static tubes with
different angles. I know that Diamond Aircraft tried them all during
the DA-20 Katana flight testing, and they eventually ended up
modifying one of the Piper parts to give it a custom angle to get
acceptable accuracy. We joked about offering one of the other ones
as a high performance option, as it gave ridiculously low indicated
stall speeds, and added about 20 kt indicated to the top speed.
Marketing would have loved it. :-)
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 2/27/01 3:16:04 PM Pacific Standard Time,
albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
> I haven't received the preview plans set so I don't know why T-905 Attach
> Bracket is the shape it is. (This bracket attaches to the inboard leading
> edge of the fuel tank and estends into the wing root/fuselage area.) Are we
> just trying to remove extra material or is the shape critical for some
> reason?
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
> RV-9A: Tail done, working on wings
>
>
>
Albert, That tab contour is not critical, It is bolted to
another similar tab attached to the fusilage.
Fred LaForge RV-4 180 CS EAA tech counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"12v Dry Cells..." (Feb 23, 4:38pm)
avionics-list(at)matronics.com, aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: | Re: 12v Dry Cells... |
Hum, a couple of people pointed out that I was asleep when I posted
this and forgot to include the URL. Here's the URL for real this
time... ;-)
http://www.performancedistributors.com/batteries.htm
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
>--------------
>Hi Listers,
>
>This might have been discussed already, but a friend of mine passed the
>URL below on to me today and it seemed like something that might be
>handy for saving a few lbs in a plane. Anyone tried these drycells in
>an aircraft enviroment?
>
>Best regards,
>
>Matt Dralle
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
Is there a way to modify the Gretz static port to work with the RV's?
I think this would be the slickest installation by far of the ones I have
seen. If it's simply not possible to make this work, I will leave it alone.
If it will work, I wouldn't mind to keep both Gretz and a fuselage port for
an alternate static source.
I plan on ordering the Pitot tube from Gretz this or next week so I'm trying
to make up my mind.
Are
RV-8 Fuel Tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mell" <kitplane(at)tradezone.com> |
Subject: | Nose Wheel Fairing |
Hey,
Here are some shots of a real cool RV6 nosewheel fairing I saw on Briegleb's
RV-6.
http://kitairplaneforum.com/gal/rbrv6/nosefair.html
Cya,
Mell
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | tank rib rivet sizes |
In looking at several building photos, I see several builders that went on
and drilled the 1/8 inch holes in the inboard and outboard tank ribs. These
two call for about 11 3/32 holes in the plans. DOES IT MATTER? I thought
about adding a few 3/32 in between the 1/8s. Thoughts guys???? Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
Subject: | Re: tank baffle shims |
Hi Bob,
Hers an idea that worked out well for me:
When I came upon this part of the tank fitting I used some short pieces of
PVC tubing for shims. I cut about ten or fifteen pieces of 3/4" white tubing
to the suggested length that that is called out in the manual.
Care must be taken to ensure that the pieces are all the same dimension and
cut square.
I then placed them on end on the spar centered over the rivets. I made sure
that the "spacers" were placed under the outer corners of each rib position.
When ready I lowered the tank baffle and rib assembly onto the spar checked
under the baffle with a flashlight in case any had slipped out of position
and fitted the skins.
The white PVC tubing is strong enough and very inexpensive and it cuts easy.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 2:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: tank baffle shims
>
> Am I correct in that the shims are only temporary-to make sure baffle is
not
> sitting to low? AND, I assume that the shims can be made from anything, as
> long as they don't compress? The pieces of scrap bundle I got with wings
(6,
> pre punched), would it be that these were sent for shim purposes. Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com> |
I just took one of these Nippon Denso alternators apart to have a look at
it. If you reverse its rotation, two minor things happen. If the fan is
still attached, it will be pulling air through the alternator instead of
pushing it. This will only be significant if there is pressure differential
from one side of the alternator to the other (baffling?). The fan could be
trying to push against the pressure differential. The other thing involves
the field rotor brushes. These brushes do not point at the center of the
rotating shaft. They are a little off center so that instead of "dragging"
on the rings they will be "pushing" on the rings if rotated in the opposite
direction. The brushes may wear a little faster if the alternator is
rotating in the wrong direction.
Another thing. If one keeps the original pulley, the alternator could be
turning at around 16,000 rpm. This is just a wee bit too fast! I'm going
to change our pulley to get it down to around 6,000 rpm. using a machined
pulley to keep the rotating mass well balanced for bearing longevity.
Garth Shearing
VariEze and 75% RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: Joe Hine <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca>
Sent: February 27, 2001 5:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: alternator
does it matter which way
> > it turns. Any help will be greatly appreciated
> > Bob Baggett
> > RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Roberto Giusti" <roby(at)mail.com> |
Subject: | Re: canopy crack |
Todd,
Would you be able to fabricate a THICKER windshield for the RV8?
Not the whole canopy, just the fixed windshield part.
This could help protect the pilot in the event of a bird strike.
>A builder in Ft. Lauderdale, FL is building an RV-8. He received his
>canopy and let me look at it and take measurements.
>I reproduced it perfectly.
Roberto Giusti
roby(at)mail.com
RV8QB Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
Brass Fittings - Don't Use Them!
I just need to air my frustration. I'm doing an Annual on an RV-4 on which
the builder used whatever fittings he could dredge up off his hangar floor
when assembling the fuel & oil systems. As I was well on my way of removing
all that crap, made up new hoses & bought Steel AN fittings, I ran into a
problem caused by one of those brass fittings. The builder used 3/8" hose
instead of 1/2" hose to the oil cooler. Therefore, he used a brass reducing
bushing in the accessory case to get from 3/8 NPT to 1/4 NPT. Last night
while trying to remove it, the bushing broke apart, leaving the threaded
portion inside the case. Tonight I'll try an easy-out to remove the rest of
it. If that doesn't work, guess I'll scratch my head and look stupid for a
while and hope the light bulb in my head turns on.
Rick Caldwell
-6 Flying occasionally, working mostly
Melbourne, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re:Offering free RV4 rides in Houston! |
Gentlemen:
The above offer is valid indefinitely to anyone that may be
interested, but I need your help. No, you don't have to come finish my
airplane. It seems I am evolving into a damn Yankee. I am moving from Monroe,
New York to Houston, Texas. The RV community has become a part of my life
and I am looking to make some new friends and get to know other homebuilders
builders and pilots in the Houston area. It appears that we will be living
in the Woodlands area on the North side. I am looking to base the RV4 nearby
at either Williams or Hooks field.
If anyone can help me locate a hanger or just wants to meet to say
hello, I would welcome the opportunity and appreciate your help. I am also
looking to join a local EAA chapter. Houston appears to be big with many
airports surrounding the metro area. I am not sure where the hot beds of
homebuilt activity are located. I am also interested in hooking up with some
people to learn formation flying techniques.
Looking forward to hearing from some Houstonians. If it makes a difference,
I am bringing all my tools including the machine shop with me. No, its not
possible to just send the tools!
Cheers,
Tom Brown
RV4 N854TB 85 hours
RV4Brown(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
Subject: | Vacuum pump cover |
Pat,
What ever you do, be sure to use the CORRECT cover. There is a VERY high
pressure oil port under this cover, and if you use the wrong one, you WILL
have a very bad oil leak. I know from experience - lost 6 Quarts in 12
minutes of flight!
Fred Stucklen
N925RV (1730 hrs/7.75 Yrs)
E. Windsor, CT 06088
WK Email: stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com
Hm/Travel Email: wstucklen1(at)juno.com
___
From: "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Vacuum pump cover
The fuselage is at the airport, the wings are getting prepared for
paint.
and the last final details are all that's left. I decided to not
put in a
vacuum system and haven't got a cover for the blank hole in the
accessory
cover on my 320-e2d.
If anyone has one to sell let me know.
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Fuselage done, wiring done, fuselage painted, wings
being preped
- just have to put it together and fly it.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: Brass Fittings |
Might take a hair dry to warm the case before attempting the ez-out as
aluminum expands faster than brass.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
EAA Chapter 75 helping fellow aviators
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 1:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: Brass Fittings
>
> Brass Fittings - Don't Use Them!
>
> I just need to air my frustration. I'm doing an Annual on an RV-4 on
which
> the builder used whatever fittings he could dredge up off his hangar floor
> when assembling the fuel & oil systems. As I was well on my way of
removing
> all that crap, made up new hoses & bought Steel AN fittings, I ran into a
> problem caused by one of those brass fittings. The builder used 3/8" hose
> instead of 1/2" hose to the oil cooler. Therefore, he used a brass
reducing
> bushing in the accessory case to get from 3/8 NPT to 1/4 NPT. Last night
> while trying to remove it, the bushing broke apart, leaving the threaded
> portion inside the case. Tonight I'll try an easy-out to remove the rest
of
> it. If that doesn't work, guess I'll scratch my head and look stupid for
a
> while and hope the light bulb in my head turns on.
>
> Rick Caldwell
> -6 Flying occasionally, working mostly
> Melbourne, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Seat Heating Pads ? |
Doug:
Can you tell us where you got them for $75. I was recently quoted $150 each
!!!
Thanks !!
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, North Carolina (N901LL res)
Engine Hung - On to Accessories!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Randy Simpson <airtime(at)proaxis.com> |
Subject: | Titanium "Ti-down" note |
Hi RV-Listers,
Just when I thought everyone on this list who was gonna buy a set of
Ti-downs had already done so, I got my biggest response yet, from my
wintertime deal. About 30 Ti-down kit orders this past week. Thanks to all
of you who responded. Today's the last day for the extra $10 sale. Not to
late to join the growing crowd of Titanium protected RV flyers.
I appreciate all the kind notes I've recieved from my customers on this
list, regarding the Ti-downs.
Sincerely,
Randy Simpson
Airtime Mfg.
http://www.airtimemfg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 2/27/01 10:14:54 PM Pacific Standard Time,
garth(at)Islandnet.com writes:
>
>
Good Post, Info that all of us Nipo Dinso users can use.
Tim Banes
N39TB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | windsaloft(at)rmisp.com (Terri Watson) |
Subject: | use for broken tipped countersinks? |
I just got handed a small handfull of countersink cutters, the tips broken
off, generally at the base of the tips.
Was thinking of smoothing them out and turning them into deburrers.
As I am a rank amateur at all this, anyone done this or have any other
suggested use for them?
Or, are they just interesting things best left in my pants pockets to later
clank around noisily in the dryer?
Terri Watson
Lander, WY
HS frame on the table
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Alternator dust |
Gentlemen:
Pulled the cowl last night for an oil change and noticed some reddish
brown dust on my alternator stud boot and alternator cable for about 3
inches. I am using a B&C 40 amp alternator. The dust looked like it covered
part of the back of the alternator casing near the ventilation ports.
Am I seeing normal debris from brush wear or is my alternator about to
give up the ghost. Haven't seen any indications electrically - yet.
Tom Brown RV4
RV4Brown(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: use for broken tipped countersinks? |
I saved all my chipped but usable cutting tools for the fiberglass work.
Nothing dulls tools like fiberglass! I spray paint the fiberglass-only
tools (drills, countersinks) with white paint and keep them segregated.
Dennis Persyk N600DP -still doing fiberglass -- it never stops
-----Original Message-----
From: Terri Watson <windsaloft(at)rmisp.com>
Date: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 12:00 PM
Subject: RV-List: use for broken tipped countersinks?
>
>I just got handed a small handfull of countersink cutters, the tips broken
>off, generally at the base of the tips.
>Was thinking of smoothing them out and turning them into deburrers.
>As I am a rank amateur at all this, anyone done this or have any other
>suggested use for them?
>Or, are they just interesting things best left in my pants pockets to later
>clank around noisily in the dryer?
>
>Terri Watson
>Lander, WY
>HS frame on the table
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Pitot & static tube source |
From: | Rick_Smith(at)tivoli.com |
02/28/2001 01:14:09 PM
Dwyer Instruments makes a stainless pitot static tube for measuring flow
velocity in ducts that works great on a RV. I have one on my -6 and get
very accurate low and high speed measurments. Stall at 48 mph indicated
and max at 212 mph indicated. These numbers have been compared side by
side with various planes many times and seem to be right on. It says a lot
for the RV versatility that I had to fly with a Cessna 152 then with a
Baron to confirm these numbers. It sure was nice to hear the Mooney 201
driver say "you have to pull it back some so I can catch up if you want to
compare airspeed readings"
http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/flow/160.html
The model 160-8 is the one I am using although there is a RV-3 owner on the list
using one of the
one-eight-inch diameter ones and it seems to work well also. His may even stick
up from the vertical fin like the T-18 guys do.
Is that right Jim?
This text came from their website. Note that it is designed to read pitot pressures
at 15 degrees of misalignment.
Ideal for use with our precision manometers and air velocity gages, Dwyer Pitot
Tubes are constructed
from corrosion resistant, stainless steel for a lifetime of service. ASME design
meets AMCA and
ASHRAE specifications for maximum accuracy over a wide variety of flow conditions.
No correction
factors required as ASHRAE tip design yields a calibration factor of 1. ASHRAE
design needs no
calibration! Permanent, stamped insertion depth graduations on sides of 160 series
facilitate accurate
positioning. Static pressure port is parallel to sensing tube allowing quick, easy
alignment of tube with
air flow. Low sensitivity to misalignment gives accurate reading even when tube
is misaligned up to 15
degrees. Various standard sizes are available for use in ducts as small as 4" diameter
or as large as 36'
diameter. A universal model fits user supplied " schedule 40 (standard) pipe in
any length. Several
convenient mounting options are available for permanent installations.
? No calibration needed.
? Precisely located, butt-free static pressure holes.
? Hemispherical tip design, best for accuracy if imperfectly aligned and nearly
impossible to damage.
? Long lasting 304 stainless steel construction.
? Silver soldered connections for leak-proof operation.
? ASME design meets AMCA and ASHRAE specification.
? Coefficient of "1."
? 5/16" models rated to 1500F, 1/8" models to 800F.
? Extended static connection helps guide tip within recommended 15 of air flow
direction.
? Inch graduations on sides of 160 series to quickly determine exact insertion
depth.
? Dwyer Air Velocity Calculator, direct reading flow charts and instructions
included.
? Use 1/8" models in ducts as small as 4", 5/16" models in ducts 10" or larger.
? Optional mounting gland or split flange make permanent installation fast and
simple.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Retractable gear RV 4 for sale |
http://www.easternaircraft.com/plane/n8du/n8du.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Subject: | Photos of my project |
I posted some photos of some of the trials and tribulations I'm going
through right now with my RV4. You can find them here:
http://communities.msn.com/RVBuildersCentral
<http://communities.msn.com/RVBuildersCentral>
If you feel like laughing at a fellow builder go on in and take a look. Go
to the Photo Album section. I have a few pictures of some problems I've run
into to which I'd appreciate some solutions.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Fuel fitting torque values...again |
There was a thread a short while ago concerning the proper torque for AN
fuel fittings, but I cannot find it in the archives. Could someone
point me towards the right place to find the torque values?
Jeff Point
-6 wings
Milwaukee, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: Brass Fittings |
Might take a hair dry to warm the case before attempting the ez-out as
aluminum expands faster than brass.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
EAA Chapter 75 helping fellow aviators
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 1:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: Brass Fittings
>
> Brass Fittings - Don't Use Them!
>
> I just need to air my frustration. I'm doing an Annual on an RV-4 on
which
> the builder used whatever fittings he could dredge up off his hangar floor
> when assembling the fuel & oil systems. As I was well on my way of
removing
> all that crap, made up new hoses & bought Steel AN fittings, I ran into a
> problem caused by one of those brass fittings. The builder used 3/8" hose
> instead of 1/2" hose to the oil cooler. Therefore, he used a brass
reducing
> bushing in the accessory case to get from 3/8 NPT to 1/4 NPT. Last night
> while trying to remove it, the bushing broke apart, leaving the threaded
> portion inside the case. Tonight I'll try an easy-out to remove the rest
of
> it. If that doesn't work, guess I'll scratch my head and look stupid for
a
> while and hope the light bulb in my head turns on.
>
> Rick Caldwell
> -6 Flying occasionally, working mostly
> Melbourne, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
Subject: | Re: Pitot & static tube source |
How does this work? The web site from the maker gives the impression that
the system is designed to work in conduits, pipes, or other known air cross
sectional areas, and speaks to 'depth of insertion' - how does this thing
work out in unconfined air ... where and how is it mounted? Do you have any
photos you could post?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Brass Fittings |
You might try to heat the case and if you are going to
use an ez out, I would try and locate the snap on ez
out as you can but a 9/16 wrench or socket on it and
it will drive the thing out if you are using the tap
in kind (good luck) worst case scenario squirt the
fitting with some penetrating oil and use a ball burr
to just get the brass cut to the threads of the case
then pry out with a small awl or screwdriver then
retap the threads.
Glenn
--- Cy Galley wrote:
>
>
> Might take a hair dry to warm the case before
> attempting the ez-out as
> aluminum expands faster than brass.
>
> Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair,
> Oshkosh
> EAA Chapter 75 helping fellow aviators
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 1:37 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Brass Fittings
>
>
>
> >
> > Brass Fittings - Don't Use Them!
> >
> > I just need to air my frustration. I'm doing an
> Annual on an RV-4 on
> which
> > the builder used whatever fittings he could dredge
> up off his hangar floor
> > when assembling the fuel & oil systems. As I was
> well on my way of
> removing
> > all that crap, made up new hoses & bought Steel AN
> fittings, I ran into a
> > problem caused by one of those brass fittings.
> The builder used 3/8" hose
> > instead of 1/2" hose to the oil cooler.
> Therefore, he used a brass
> reducing
> > bushing in the accessory case to get from 3/8 NPT
> to 1/4 NPT. Last night
> > while trying to remove it, the bushing broke
> apart, leaving the threaded
> > portion inside the case. Tonight I'll try an
> easy-out to remove the rest
> of
> > it. If that doesn't work, guess I'll scratch my
> head and look stupid for
> a
> > while and hope the light bulb in my head turns on.
> >
> > Rick Caldwell
> > -6 Flying occasionally, working mostly
> > Melbourne, FL
> >
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
Subject: | 7.0 earthquake in Seattle |
Not very RV related, but reports that the windows of the control tower
at our International airport were blown out and the airports in the area are
closed. I don't know what you do if you are airborne. I assume the GA
airports were still landing planes.
Reports are indicating that not much happened other then minor damage.
200,000 people without power and some injuries from falling debris.
I'm going back to pounding rivets....
Dave Burton,
RV6a, wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 12:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel fitting torque values...again
>
> There was a thread a short while ago concerning the proper torque for AN
> fuel fittings, but I cannot find it in the archives. Could someone
> point me towards the right place to find the torque values?
>
> Jeff Point
> -6 wings
> Milwaukee, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: 7.0 earthquake in Seattle |
Dave,
I live in Tacoma, WA, just north of the epicenter. No damage other than a
couple of small items knocked off a shelf. The ground roll was very evident,
lasting probably 30 to 40 seconds.
Back to wiring and plumbing.
Bill Bruton
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
>
>Is there a way to modify the Gretz static port to work with the RV's?
>I think this would be the slickest installation by far of the ones I have
>seen. If it's simply not possible to make this work, I will leave it alone.
>If it will work, I wouldn't mind to keep both Gretz and a fuselage port for
>an alternate static source.
>I plan on ordering the Pitot tube from Gretz this or next week so I'm trying
>to make up my mind.
>
>Are
>RV-8 Fuel Tanks
>
Are,
It is really a question of location (how far aft of the leading edge,
and how far below the wing surface). There likely is a location that
will work, but it would take a lot of trial and error to find it.
How about using the fuselage port as the primary, and the one on the
tube as the alternate? Aft fuselage static ports have a pretty good
service history at not icing up, so that shouldn't be a big issue.
You can't fly in icing conditions anyway, except while you are
getting out of the conditions that you encountered inadvertently.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
All this talk about static ports and locations etc has me wondering--I'm not
that far yet but does Vans specify a location for the port? My 172 has it on
the fuse on the left side about 20 inches ahead of the pilot's door centered
vertically. I know you want a location without any pressure or vacuum
influence so how does one test for that condition?
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 2:35 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: static port
>
>Is there a way to modify the Gretz static port to work with the RV's?
>I think this would be the slickest installation by far of the ones I have
>seen. If it's simply not possible to make this work, I will leave it alone.
>If it will work, I wouldn't mind to keep both Gretz and a fuselage port for
>an alternate static source.
>I plan on ordering the Pitot tube from Gretz this or next week so I'm
trying
>to make up my mind.
>
>Are
>RV-8 Fuel Tanks
>
Are,
It is really a question of location (how far aft of the leading edge,
and how far below the wing surface). There likely is a location that
will work, but it would take a lot of trial and error to find it.
How about using the fuselage port as the primary, and the one on the
tube as the alternate? Aft fuselage static ports have a pretty good
service history at not icing up, so that shouldn't be a big issue.
You can't fly in icing conditions anyway, except while you are
getting out of the conditions that you encountered inadvertently.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
Hi Greg,
Yes Vans gives you the best location in thier diagram. The static ports (there
is one on each side) are located on the fuselage sides just aft of the baggage
compartment on my 6A. I would imagine the 9A is similar. They picked this
location after many years of trial and error.
Eric Newton
RV-6A (finish - hanging engine)
www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
Yes, I do intend using the fuselage static port as the primary port since
it's proven and seem to work well for others. The other port (on the pitot
tube) will then be alternate. I suppose it will be good enough as long as I
record and document the discrepancy if any. And yes, we will not be able to
equip the RV's for known icing - at least not without exceeding gross before
fuel and pilot :)
This may be a silly question: If the Pitot tube on the RV's are installed in
such a location that it works well, why won't the static port work as well?
I thought the pitot also required a position without pressure and vacuum
influence. Now, I know from reports that it doesn't work well but it doesn't
make a lot of sense unless the pitot tube doesn't care about turbulence,
pressure or vacuum.
Are
RV-8 First Fuel Tank (I'm doing one wing at the time)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
Are,
It is really a question of location (how far aft of the leading edge,
and how far below the wing surface). There likely is a location that
will work, but it would take a lot of trial and error to find it.
How about using the fuselage port as the primary, and the one on the
tube as the alternate? Aft fuselage static ports have a pretty good
service history at not icing up, so that shouldn't be a big issue.
You can't fly in icing conditions anyway, except while you are
getting out of the conditions that you encountered inadvertently.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Fuel fitting torque values...again |
Hi Jeff,
Chris Good has a reference table on his website with this information. I
once found this info in AC43-13 after searching for a while but it's easier
to just print Chris' reference table. Here is the link:
http://www.slinger.net/rv-6a/ Click "Reference Tables" on the left side
menu.
BTW, doesn't Chris Good's new paint job look great!
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
There was a thread a short while ago concerning the proper torque for AN
fuel fittings, but I cannot find it in the archives. Could someone
point me towards the right place to find the torque values?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
>This may be a silly question: If the Pitot tube on the RV's are installed in
>such a location that it works well, why won't the static port work as well?
>I thought the pitot also required a position without pressure and vacuum
>influence. Now, I know from reports that it doesn't work well but it doesn't
>make a lot of sense unless the pitot tube doesn't care about turbulence,
>pressure or vacuum.
This is not a simple question to answer, so bear with me as I try to
find a clear way to explain.
Bernoulli's Law tells us that the air pressure changes as the
velocity of the air changes. The air must accelerate and decelerate
as it moves around the aircraft, which causes the static pressure to
change. This is why it is difficult to find a good location to put a
static port, as it should be in a location where the pressure is as
close as possible to the free stream ambient pressure (i.e the
pressure the air was at before the aircraft came along and messed
with it). Things get even more difficult when you consider that the
flow around the aircraft changes as you change the angle of attack,
or extend the flaps. So it is pretty much impossible to find a
location that gives an accurate static pressure reading over the
range of airspeeds between stall speed and VNE. Static pressure
errors are one of the big reasons why most aircraft have big errors
in the indicated airspeed at the stall.
Pitot tubes have it quite a bit easier. There is essentially no flow
through the pitot tube, as the airspeed indicator blocks the other
end of the system. The air that hits the pitot tube must come to a
stop inside the tube. The pressure increases as it slows down to a
stop (Bernoulli's Law). Let's say that the aircraft is going 100 mph
true airspeed. It doesn't matter whether you have the pitot tube on
a long boom sticking out ahead of the aircraft (where it will get hit
by air moving 100 mph), or somewhere where the air has had to
accelerate to 110 mph. The air that accelerated to 110 mph had its
pressure decrease. If that air slows back down to 100 mph, its
pressure will be right back where it was at the start. In both
cases, the pressure will be the same when it slows down to a stop in
the pitot tube.
So, it is easy to find an accurate location for a pitot tube. As
long as it is not located behind a propeller, in the wing wake, in a
boundary layer, or in a region of localized supersonic flow, the
errors due to the position of the pitot tube are usually negligible
(assuming it is reasonably well aligned with the local flow - up to a
15 degree misalignment is usually OK).
Hopefully this makes sense.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WCruiser1(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Change of Life RV8 Wing Kit For Sale |
To all early stage RV8 Builders.
I have come to the conclusion that for me to build my RV8 will require a
critical decision at this time. I had purchased, unpacked and inventoried an
RV8 wing kit and now realize that a Quick Build is the only way for me to
reach my goal. I am looking for interested buyers in the Ohio Area who would
be interested in a virgin RV8 kit less shipping crate. (you pick it up West
Side Suburb of Cleveland)
Willing to work out a deal so I can get my QB on order.
Contact me off line at Wcruiser1(at)aol.com.
Gary Gembala
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Doug Shenk <dshenk3(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Titanium "Ti-down" note |
Just got mine today. They are solid, nicely finished and lightweight. The
service from Randy is great. They are better than I expected! Thanks, Randy.
Doug S. RV6Abuilding.
Randy Simpson wrote:
>
> Hi RV-Listers,
> Just when I thought everyone on this list who was gonna buy a set of
> Ti-downs had already done so, I got my biggest response yet, from my
> wintertime deal. About 30 Ti-down kit orders this past week. Thanks to all
> of you who responded. Today's the last day for the extra $10 sale. Not to
> late to join the growing crowd of Titanium protected RV flyers.
> I appreciate all the kind notes I've recieved from my customers on this
> list, regarding the Ti-downs.
> Sincerely,
> Randy Simpson
> Airtime Mfg.
> http://www.airtimemfg.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re:Offering free RV4 rides in Houston! |
Tom,
Welcome to north Houston. Hooks (DWH) is my field and a hot bed of RV
activity. There's also a number of RV's, other experimentals and EAA Chapter
302 at Conroe (CXO). A year or so ago, we counted over 26 RV's (almost all
flying) between Hooks and Conroe. There are at least 3 very near completion
on Hooks, an -8, a -6a and my -6. I'm obviously biased but I'd vote for
Hooks. It's an easy drive down I45 to FM2920 to Hooks. There should be
hangar space available on Hooks as a number of large multi-plane hangars
have recently been built. I'm planning to build one as well with completion
in roughly 6 months. Wherever you eventually base, come visit us at Hooks.
The focal point for RVs is Charlie Winn's hangar (next to the Baker-Hughes
hangar near the center of the field) or look me up at the F-6 T-hangar.
Around 10am on Sat is when the RV bunch is typically contemplating where to
launch for lunch.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) wiring & systems
>
> Gentlemen:
>
> The above offer is valid indefinitely to anyone that may be
> interested, but I need your help. No, you don't have to come
> finish my
> airplane. It seems I am evolving into a damn Yankee. I am
> moving from Monroe,
> New York to Houston, Texas. The RV community has become a
> part of my life
> and I am looking to make some new friends and get to know
> other homebuilders
> builders and pilots in the Houston area. It appears that we
> will be living
> in the Woodlands area on the North side. I am looking to
> base the RV4 nearby
> at either Williams or Hooks field.
>
> If anyone can help me locate a hanger or just wants to
> meet to say
> hello, I would welcome the opportunity and appreciate your
> help. I am also
> looking to join a local EAA chapter. Houston appears to be
> big with many
> airports surrounding the metro area. I am not sure where the
> hot beds of
> homebuilt activity are located. I am also interested in
> hooking up with some
> people to learn formation flying techniques.
>
> Looking forward to hearing from some Houstonians. If it
> makes a difference,
> I am bringing all my tools including the machine shop with
> me. No, its not
> possible to just send the tools!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Tom Brown
> RV4 N854TB 85 hours
> RV4Brown(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | tank rib question |
Ok boys, how in the ... do you manipulate (adjust/move) the tank ribs when
drilling ribs (skinning)?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: tank rib question |
In a message dated 2/28/01 10:44:33 PM Central Standard Time,
Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< Ok boys, how in the ... do you manipulate (adjust/move) the tank ribs when
drilling ribs (skinning)? >>
Sounds crude & low tech, but I used a wooden yardstick and slid it up between
the skin and baffle and pushed as needed. Of course you can reach the second
rib through the inspection hole and kind of reach the 4th one through the
fuel filler hole.
Good luck,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Finish Kit)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: canopy crack |
Roberto,
I know Todd. His RV canopies are made from 1/4" material.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A fuselage
Boca Raton, Fl.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roberto Giusti" <roby(at)mail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 4:05 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: canopy crack
>
> Todd,
>
> Would you be able to fabricate a THICKER windshield for the RV8?
>
> Not the whole canopy, just the fixed windshield part.
> This could help protect the pilot in the event of a bird strike.
>
> >A builder in Ft. Lauderdale, FL is building an RV-8. He received his
> >canopy and let me look at it and take measurements.
> >I reproduced it perfectly.
>
> Roberto Giusti
> roby(at)mail.com
> RV8QB Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: tank rib question |
Bob,
First, the bottom (trailing edge) of the tank ribs should be properly spaced
on the baffle per the skin holes. Transfer that spacing to the leading
edges of the ribs by making spacers. I used 1/2" PVC pipe that I had laying
around with string passed through the pipe and through the forward rib
tooling holes, then tied off tightly at the end ribs. With the proper
spacing, you should be able to see the rib flange centerlines through the
skin holes. As you lay the skin across the ribs and tighten it down with
the straps, you can move them back and forth a little, but once that puppy
is down tight, forget about it!
Good luck and happy building.
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A Wings
>From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: tank rib question
>Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 23:39:29 EST
>
>
>Ok boys, how in the ... do you manipulate (adjust/move) the tank ribs when
>drilling ribs (skinning)?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Brass Fittings |
Success! I bought a screw extractor from Sears and that got the broken
fitting out in one piece. Thanks to those who offered their input.
Rick Caldwell
>From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Brass Fittings
>Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 14:09:06 -0800 (PST)
>
>
>You might try to heat the case and if you are going to
>use an ez out, I would try and locate the snap on ez
>out as you can but a 9/16 wrench or socket on it and
>it will drive the thing out if you are using the tap
>in kind (good luck) worst case scenario squirt the
>fitting with some penetrating oil and use a ball burr
>to just get the brass cut to the threads of the case
>then pry out with a small awl or screwdriver then
>retap the threads.
>
>Glenn
>
>--- Cy Galley wrote:
> >
> >
> > Might take a hair dry to warm the case before
> > attempting the ez-out as
> > aluminum expands faster than brass.
> >
> > Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair,
> > Oshkosh
> > EAA Chapter 75 helping fellow aviators
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 1:37 PM
> > Subject: RV-List: Brass Fittings
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Brass Fittings - Don't Use Them!
> > >
> > > I just need to air my frustration. I'm doing an
> > Annual on an RV-4 on
> > which
> > > the builder used whatever fittings he could dredge
> > up off his hangar floor
> > > when assembling the fuel & oil systems. As I was
> > well on my way of
> > removing
> > > all that crap, made up new hoses & bought Steel AN
> > fittings, I ran into a
> > > problem caused by one of those brass fittings.
> > The builder used 3/8" hose
> > > instead of 1/2" hose to the oil cooler.
> > Therefore, he used a brass
> > reducing
> > > bushing in the accessory case to get from 3/8 NPT
> > to 1/4 NPT. Last night
> > > while trying to remove it, the bushing broke
> > apart, leaving the threaded
> > > portion inside the case. Tonight I'll try an
> > easy-out to remove the rest
> > of
> > > it. If that doesn't work, guess I'll scratch my
> > head and look stupid for
> > a
> > > while and hope the light bulb in my head turns on.
> > >
> > > Rick Caldwell
> > > -6 Flying occasionally, working mostly
> > > Melbourne, FL
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > through
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> > Matronics!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>====
>Glenn Williams
>8A
>A&P
>N81GW
>
>Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
Subject: | Re: Titanium "Ti-down" note |
I received my second set yesterday. Thing of beauty and lightness!
Finn
Randy Simpson wrote:
>
> Hi RV-Listers,
> Just when I thought everyone on this list who was gonna buy a set of
> Ti-downs had already done so, I got my biggest response yet, from my
> wintertime deal. About 30 Ti-down kit orders this past week. Thanks to all
> of you who responded. Today's the last day for the extra $10 sale. Not to
> late to join the growing crowd of Titanium protected RV flyers.
> I appreciate all the kind notes I've recieved from my customers on this
> list, regarding the Ti-downs.
> Sincerely,
> Randy Simpson
> Airtime Mfg.
> http://www.airtimemfg.com
>
Shop online without a credit card
http://www.rocketcash.com
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re:Offering free RV4 rides in Houston! |
Good morning Greg,
Thank you for the kind response! I am traveling to Houston next week
( 5th through the 9th) for a house hunting venture with my wife. As part of
the house hunting trip, I am planning on doing some airport exploring to look
for a home for the airplane. The Realtor says he expects to be done with us
by Wednesday. If you are available sometime between Wednesday and Friday
afternoon, I would be delighted to meet with you. I am planning on visiting
Hooks sometime during the trip. Your insight will be most helpful. Do you
have an idea what hanger fees are going for at Hooks?
My home phone is (845) 783-2518. The cell unit that I will have with
me is (914) 907-8398.
Cheers,
Tom Brown
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | GRGSCHMIDT(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Static Checking (FARs) |
Mike, you mentioned the "Pitot" test." Actually the regulations never mention
this being tested. It is in the test due to the connection of the static
system but does not have to be certified. Correct me if I'm wrong, only the
Transponder, encoder, altimeter, and static system require certification?
Thank you for your valuable input,
Greg Schmidt
PHX RV-6S wiring and fiber glass
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
Subject: | FS: EI OPT-1 & US-8A |
Two Electronics International instruments for sale. Both are unused and
in their original boxes with all parts & pieces in as-received
condition.
OPT-1 Oil Pressure/Temperature $500
US-8A Ultimate Analyzer $1000
I'll pay for shipping anywhere in the continental US.
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
canopy & panel
www.egroups.com/files/bostonrvbuilders
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
Subject: | moving ribs and other alignment problems |
You can use a sharp instrument, like a dental pick, to move the ribs
around
through the holes in the skins too...
Go immediately to the wife's, grandma's or, my first choice, mother-in-law's
kitchen utensil drawer. Stealth away with at least two ice picks. Use
these ice picks to align rivet holes, walk ribs into position by sticking
the ice picks through the rivet holes, or just keep them handy in case any
Glastar builders show up and try to drink all your beer.
Vince in Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
Subject: | rivet hole and rib alignment tool |
You can use a sharp instrument, like a dental pick, to move the ribs
around
through the holes in the skins too...
Go immediately to the wife's, grandma's or, my first choice, mother-in-law's
kitchen utensil drawer. Stealth away with at least two ice picks. Use
these ice picks to align rivet holes, walk ribs into position by sticking
the ice picks through the rivet holes, or just keep them handy in case any
Glastar builders show up and try to drink all your beer.
Vince in Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
Subject: | Re: canopy crack |
Yes, but that doesn't mean that the thickness at the windshield will be
1/4". If you start with a 1/4" sheet, it'll have to shrink in thickness
when blown (expanded) into shape. I imagine that a blown canopy with 1/4"
thick windshield will be quite heavy. A molded canopy with varying
thickness (if such a thing is possible) is probably going to be very
expensive.
Finn
Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
> Roberto,
> I know Todd. His RV canopies are made from 1/4" material.
> Charlie Kuss
> RV-8A fuselage
> Boca Raton, Fl.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roberto Giusti" <roby(at)mail.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 4:05 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Re: canopy crack
>
> >
> > Todd,
> >
> > Would you be able to fabricate a THICKER windshield for the RV8?
> >
> > Not the whole canopy, just the fixed windshield part.
> > This could help protect the pilot in the event of a bird strike.
> >
> > >A builder in Ft. Lauderdale, FL is building an RV-8. He received his
> > >canopy and let me look at it and take measurements.
> > >I reproduced it perfectly.
> >
> > Roberto Giusti
> > roby(at)mail.com
> > RV8QB Elevators
Shop online without a credit card
http://www.rocketcash.com
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Subject: | Re: Engine Unpacking... |
Bill,
What no fuel pump? But seriously, It sounds like you got a "great
deal". I hope I'm so lucky.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
" rv-list(at)matronics.com"
Subject: | Re: FW: [rv8list] Getting started |
The major problem with using PVC of any weight is what happens when it
bursts and sends plastic shrapnell everywhere. Proper installation using
cleaners, primers and the proper glue make the installation safer but
most people drop the cleaner and primer step from the sequence so every
joint is a bomb just waiting to explode. Also what happens when your
shovel falls against the plastic pipe? Or maybe you trip over your hose
and pull the coupler right out of the plastic connection.
Black pipe or copper are better alternatives. I plumbed my garage and
shop with copper, easy to do and not very expensive. The choice is
yours.
Gary Zilik
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> What's wrong with using PVC for plumbing the compressed air? I used
> SCH40 PVC to plumb mine here in Colorado, and have had no problems in
> 17 months.. I believe Sam Buchanan used the same thing to plumb
> his...SCH 40 is rated to 600 PSI @ 73 deg F, I am sure as the
> temperature goes down, the rated pressure does too, but I am sure it
> is still well above the 125 PSI your compressor is putting out... Bill
> VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: FS: EI OPT-1 & US-8A |
Ken,
I'll take them if available...tried your e-mail address and it bounced.
Pat Hatch
pat_hatch(at)msn.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Balch" <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 9:30 AM
Subject: RV-List: FS: EI OPT-1 & US-8A
>
> Two Electronics International instruments for sale. Both are unused and
> in their original boxes with all parts & pieces in as-received
> condition.
>
> OPT-1 Oil Pressure/Temperature $500
>
> US-8A Ultimate Analyzer $1000
>
> I'll pay for shipping anywhere in the continental US.
>
>
> --
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
> canopy & panel
> www.egroups.com/files/bostonrvbuilders
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: static ports |
We installed a heated pitot-static tube in our full IFR RV-8a. Although we
didn't get it from Warren it is the same one. After 30 hours of testing and
a proficiency race we have found it to be very accurate.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
>From: Ewinne(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: static ports
>Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 05:36:18 EST
>
>
>Here's a question for everyone debating which static port to use- Wouldn't
>the most elegant solution (especially for those building IFR birds) be to
>install Warren Gretz's heated pitot/static system? That way, there is no
>"extra" plumbing to do, no worry about flush or domed ports, and the heated
>system means no problems with accidental ice.
>
>Has anyone installed and used one of these, and how well do they do the
>job?
>I'm about to open my wing crates, so I guess it's time for me to think
>about
>this stuff!
>
>Ed Winne
>RV-9A Wings (almost)
>Palmyra PA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
03/01/2001 02:14:29 PM
Seeking help on a crank issue. Got a line on two O-360 engines that have
been rebuilt. Both are in wrecked planes, a Mooney and a Cardinal. The
Mooney got wiped with the engine at idle and it contains a prop strike on a
windmilling engine. The Cardinal is a Tornado victim. The dial calipers put
the cranks on both of them at 3 thousanths, I'm told the limit is 5. Both
have been recently remanned top and bottom within a couple hundred hours.
Is 3 thousandths over an indicator that its soon to be needing a crank or
is this a common middle ground that the plane might remain at for years of
normal flying. Any info you guys can send my way would sure be helpfull.
Thanks
Eric Henson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Static Checking (FARs) |
We need to take a look at FAR 91.411 for Pitot-Static Tests and 91.413 for
the transponder tests.
On the pitot-static test/inspections if you fly VFR only anyone can do it
and it need only be done once or whenever the system has been worked on. If
you fly IFR then it must be done every two years by either the manufacturer,
a repair station that is authorized to do it, or an certificated mechanic
with an airframe rating. Having a Repairman's certificate is not the same
because of the "airframe rating" part. And for the purposes of this reg
"manufacturer" means the manufacturer with a Type Certificate like Cessna,
Beech, etc..
The Transponder must be inspected and tested every two years per the reg.
This must be done by an appropriately rated repair station, the holder of a
continuous airworthiness maintenance program approved under FAR 121, 127, or
135.411(a)(2), or the manufacturer of the aircraft if they installed the
transponder. Again, for the purposed of this reg we are not the
manufacturer.
Given the cost of what your local repair statin charges you for these
inspections IMHO it just isn't worth buying the equipment and maintaining
it.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
RV-8A N809RS
>From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Static Checking (FARs)
>Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 12:01:20 -0600
>
>
>Mike,
>Could you please comment on the transponder and encoder checks for VFR?
>Thanks.
>Dennis Persyk N600DP
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 11:44 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Static Checking (FARs)
>
>
> >
> >What you say is true unless you plan on having your aircraft IFR ready.
> >Then you must have the Pitot Static system checked with a certified
> >calibrated system. You could make your own but the cost of calibration
>for
> >the gauges would probably not make it worth it.
> >
> >MIke Robertson
> >RV-8A N809RS
> >
> >
> >>From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
> >>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >>To:
> >>Subject: Re: RV-List: Static Checking (FARs)
> >>Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 23:32:33 -0800
> >>
> >>
> >>Okay here's one for all you FAR geeks (yeah I know I'm one too...): It
> >>looks
> >>to me from FAR 91.411 that it's perfectly legal for us in the
>experimental
> >>world (the actual builders anyway) to perform and sign off our own
> >>pitot-static tests. Anyone disagree?
> >>
> >>Assuming that's true, now all I have to do is wade through all that
>stuff
> >>on
> >>Kevin Horton's site, make a test set-up and do the thing. Easier said
>than
> >>done I'm sure, but then once it's done it seems like it would save some
>$$
> >>every 2 years especially for IFR. Thoughts?
> >>
> >>Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
> >>Portland, OR
> >>http://www.edt.com/homewing
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Barstad, Are" <BarstadA(at)bis.adp.com> |
Thanks for the info Mike. It looks encouraging.
Where did you install it? Is it aft of the main spar in the first bay
outboard from the aileron belcrank?
Are
RV-8 Fuel Tanks
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Robertson [mailto:mrobert569(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: March 1, 2001 1:48 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: static ports
We installed a heated pitot-static tube in our full IFR RV-8a. Although we
didn't get it from Warren it is the same one. After 30 hours of testing and
a proficiency race we have found it to be very accurate.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
>From: Ewinne(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: static ports
>Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 05:36:18 EST
>
>
>Here's a question for everyone debating which static port to use- Wouldn't
>the most elegant solution (especially for those building IFR birds) be to
>install Warren Gretz's heated pitot/static system? That way, there is no
>"extra" plumbing to do, no worry about flush or domed ports, and the heated
>system means no problems with accidental ice.
>
>Has anyone installed and used one of these, and how well do they do the
>job?
>I'm about to open my wing crates, so I guess it's time for me to think
>about
>this stuff!
>
>Ed Winne
>RV-9A Wings (almost)
>Palmyra PA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: static ports |
I am into the wings of my RV9a. I am (already fitted) installing
Warren's Heated Pitot. He's a gentleman, by the way. I'd like to attempt
to summarize this thread. I may miss something, so please excuse me. At
least one person has gotten the following to work, and at least one says
it has errors.
1. Van's static system.
a. it works
b. it doesn't work
c. it is ugly
d. it is hard to get it leak free
2. Other suppliers flush mount static system
a. it works
b. it doesn't work
c. it works if you install a rivet in it, like Van's
3. Pirate one off a Grumman (I don't think anyone said they didn't get
this to work, but maybe only one person tried it.
4. One person offered to share a better looking RIVET with grooves
notched in it to better grab the tubing.
THIS BRINGS ME TO THE POINT. MOST THREADS, ON THE 'LIST', HAVE
PROPONENTS AND DETRACTORS.
IT WOULD BE NICE TO HEAR, PARTICULARLY FROM THOSE WHO GOT SOMETHING TO
WORK AND ARE SATISFIED, :
1. How did you test it to know it was right?
2. How do you account (what did you do when installing the device) for
your success?
While I am at the poteum (get it? Barry Pote) Many of us write questions
and answers, assuming that readers know what model RV we are working on.
I know it would help me, if posters would say..."6" "6a" "3" "4" "8"
"8a" "9a", since not all posts are uinversal. I yield the floor.
Mike Robertson wrote:
> We installed a heated pitot-static tube in our full IFR RV-8a. Although we
> didn't get it from Warren it is the same one. After 30 hours of testing and
> a proficiency race we have found it to be very accurate.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Static Checking (FARs) |
Greg,
You're right. Old age force of habit makes me say Pitot-static irregardless
of whether I am talking about pitot or static. The Reg only mentions
static system.
Mike Robertson
>From: GRGSCHMIDT(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Static Checking (FARs)
>Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 08:49:42 EST
>
>
>Mike, you mentioned the "Pitot" test." Actually the regulations never
>mention
>this being tested. It is in the test due to the connection of the static
>system but does not have to be certified. Correct me if I'm wrong, only the
>Transponder, encoder, altimeter, and static system require certification?
>
>Thank you for your valuable input,
>
>Greg Schmidt
>PHX RV-6S wiring and fiber glass
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
We mounted it very close to where Van's recommends it. Because of the
doubler plate it can't go in the exact same place but within about 2 inches.
Mike R.
>From: "Barstad, Are" <BarstadA(at)bis.adp.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
>Subject: RE: RV-List: static ports
>Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 15:05:30 -0500
>
>
>Thanks for the info Mike. It looks encouraging.
>Where did you install it? Is it aft of the main spar in the first bay
>outboard from the aileron belcrank?
>
>Are
>RV-8 Fuel Tanks
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Mike Robertson [mailto:mrobert569(at)hotmail.com]
>Sent: March 1, 2001 1:48 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: static ports
>
>
>We installed a heated pitot-static tube in our full IFR RV-8a. Although we
>didn't get it from Warren it is the same one. After 30 hours of testing
>and
>
>a proficiency race we have found it to be very accurate.
>
>Mike Robertson
>RV-8A N809RS
>
>
> >From: Ewinne(at)AOL.COM
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: static ports
> >Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 05:36:18 EST
> >
> >
> >Here's a question for everyone debating which static port to use-
>Wouldn't
> >the most elegant solution (especially for those building IFR birds) be to
> >install Warren Gretz's heated pitot/static system? That way, there is no
> >"extra" plumbing to do, no worry about flush or domed ports, and the
>heated
> >system means no problems with accidental ice.
> >
> >Has anyone installed and used one of these, and how well do they do the
> >job?
> >I'm about to open my wing crates, so I guess it's time for me to think
> >about
> >this stuff!
> >
> >Ed Winne
> >RV-9A Wings (almost)
> >Palmyra PA
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: static ports |
> We installed a heated pitot-static tube in our full IFR RV-8a. Although
we
> didn't get it from Warren it is the same one. After 30 hours of testing
and
> a proficiency race we have found it to be very accurate.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A N809RS
Mike,
Are you saying that you are using the static port built into the Piper-style
pitot tube? If so then there is hope for the rest of us. The critical
information then is the exact location you have it mounted. Any way you
could measure the hole relative to the skin line for us? Also, please
confirm that this is the AN5814 tube.
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, transporting to the hangar soon
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kelsonhoffrv9(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Riveting in tight spots |
What are folks using to rivet in those tight little spots where your squeezer
won't fit, a (normal?) bucking bar won't fit, etc. My current issue is the
last rivet at the trailing edge of a flap rib. There is a 1/4" between the
un-driven shop end of the flush rivet and the inside of the other side of the
rib. I was thinking about investing in one of the narrow squeezer jaws.
10 years ago when I built the tail of a -6 I remember using a piece of
polished angle iron as a bucking bar, but don't recall it being fun. Any
other neat tricks people are using.
Curt Hoffman Loveland, OH
RV-9A (N912WK reserved)
Working on Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
>
>
> Seeking help on a crank issue. Got a line on two O-360 engines that have
> been rebuilt. Both are in wrecked planes, a Mooney and a Cardinal. The
> Mooney got wiped with the engine at idle and it contains a prop strike on a
> windmilling engine. The Cardinal is a Tornado victim. The dial calipers put
> the cranks on both of them at 3 thousanths, I'm told the limit is 5. Both
> have been recently remanned top and bottom within a couple hundred hours.
> Is 3 thousandths over an indicator that its soon to be needing a crank or
> is this a common middle ground that the plane might remain at for years of
> normal flying. Any info you guys can send my way would sure be helpfull.
>
> Thanks
>
> Eric Henson
>
Eric
3 thousandths is in tolerance and the Cardinal is probably ok but
the Mooney engine will be a manditory tear down because of the prop
strike even if it was windmilling.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
Subject: | Re: Riveting in tight spots |
I have found that I prefer a pop rivet to a messed up skin. You can solder
or epoxy the hole to dress it up.
Brian Eckstein
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary J. Strong" <gstrong(at)qwest.net> |
Subject: | Riveting in tight spots |
I used a cold chisle on a couple of rivets I couldn't reach. It worked
pretty well.
Gary S. - RV6A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Art Waldal" <awaldal(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Riveting in tight spots |
From: awaldal(at)hotmail.com
rework a set of vice grips to a narrow set of pinchers and it works great to
squeeze them in tight places. just grind them inside and outside till they
fit in the area and squeeze away. Good luck
From: BSEckstein(at)cs.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Riveting in tight spots
Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 20:01:53 EST
I have found that I prefer a pop rivet to a messed up skin. You can solder
or epoxy the hole to dress it up.
Brian Eckstein
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
Subject: | Riveting in tight spots |
I use a yoke from Avery that is completely flat on the top side. You can't
put dies in the top side, but it's ideal for 426 flush rivets. I measured it
to give me 1/4" clearance above an unfinished rivet. It's been a life saver
in many tight areas - especially around the trailing edges in the rudder and
elevators.
If not, you can use pop rivets or a cold chisle as Gary mentioned.
Are
RV-8 Fuel Tanks
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Kelsonhoffrv9(at)AOL.COM
Sent: March 1, 2001 7:41 PM
Subject: RV-List: Riveting in tight spots
What are folks using to rivet in those tight little spots where your
squeezer
won't fit, a (normal?) bucking bar won't fit, etc. My current issue is the
last rivet at the trailing edge of a flap rib. There is a 1/4" between the
un-driven shop end of the flush rivet and the inside of the other side of
the
rib. I was thinking about investing in one of the narrow squeezer jaws.
10 years ago when I built the tail of a -6 I remember using a piece of
polished angle iron as a bucking bar, but don't recall it being fun. Any
other neat tricks people are using.
Curt Hoffman Loveland, OH
RV-9A (N912WK reserved)
Working on Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: static ports |
Randy,
We installed the "bullet" style heated pitot-static tube not the "blade"
style Piper pitot tube. I willl need to go take a look to get some
measurements but it is as close to Van's recommended spot as possible and as
close to the rib and main spar as the doubler in Warren's install kit will
allow.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: static ports
>Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 16:19:22 -0800
>
>
> > We installed a heated pitot-static tube in our full IFR RV-8a. Although
>we
> > didn't get it from Warren it is the same one. After 30 hours of testing
>and
> > a proficiency race we have found it to be very accurate.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> > RV-8A N809RS
>
>
>Mike,
>
>Are you saying that you are using the static port built into the
>Piper-style
>pitot tube? If so then there is hope for the rest of us. The critical
>information then is the exact location you have it mounted. Any way you
>could measure the hole relative to the skin line for us? Also, please
>confirm that this is the AN5814 tube.
>
>Thanks,
>Randy Lervold
>RV-8, #80500, transporting to the hangar soon
>www.rv-8.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
Subject: | Re: Riveting in tight spots |
Flush pop rivets.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kelsonhoffrv9(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 5:41 PM
Subject: RV-List: Riveting in tight spots
>
> What are folks using to rivet in those tight little spots where your
squeezer
> won't fit, a (normal?) bucking bar won't fit, etc. My current issue is
the
> last rivet at the trailing edge of a flap rib. There is a 1/4" between the
> un-driven shop end of the flush rivet and the inside of the other side of
the
> rib. I was thinking about investing in one of the narrow squeezer jaws.
> 10 years ago when I built the tail of a -6 I remember using a piece of
> polished angle iron as a bucking bar, but don't recall it being fun. Any
> other neat tricks people are using.
>
> Curt Hoffman Loveland, OH
> RV-9A (N912WK reserved)
> Working on Wing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
N46KB flew today. It was a brief flight - 30 minutes or so.
Looks like I've got 3 bugs to work out:
1) Light right wing. Even with full manual trim, I was still holding a
pound or two of stick force.
2) I need to add a washer to the oil pressure relief valve to get a few more
PSI.
3) There is a small oil leak somewhere. I have not pulled the cowl, so I'm
not sure if we're talking a loose fitting or what.
First flight observations:
Takeoff acceleration wasn't blistering, and I'm only getting around 2200 RPM
on climbout. I didn't check the VSI, but it climbed well. Obviously, I've
got a fair amount of pitch in the prop.
In cruise, once I got it wound up, I saw 2700 RPM @ 24+ inches of MP
straight and level, and 170 Knots indicated @ 5000'. CHT's were below 400
degrees all the way around, and the oil temp topped out at 210 or 215
degrees. All of these readings are subject to calibration errors.
The takeoff and landing were great (OK, ugly, but at least I don't have to
make any structural repairs before I fly again.).
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | GRGSCHMIDT(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Static Checking (FARs) |
Mike,
It really should say Pitot because we end up checking the airspeed indicator
by evacuating the static system anyway. At our facility, we typically find
leaks in some aircraft in both systems during the two year inspections and I
suppose one may find it's way into my RV and I plan on going through the full
IFR certification process just as if it were a Wichita Spam can.
I can only think about how important this information may be for an aircraft
equipped with TCAD or TCAS who is trying to avoid occupying the same airspace
as me.
Greg Schmidt
PHX DVT airport
RV6S Wiring and fiberglassing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | NavAid Wing Rocking |
I had reported earlier that aileron trim did not alter wing rocking with
NavAid Devices autopilot engaged. Yesterday my builder friend suggested we
try right trim as last time we only tried left trim. Success! Sort of.
With considerable right manual aileron trim bias, there was no wing rocking
in wing level, track and turn modes. That is the good news.
When the autopilot is disengaged, hands off, the plane rolls right at about
8 degrees per second. That is the bad news.
I'm awaiting news from fellow lister John Furey who sent his NAD autopilot
back for the same problem before I send mine in for repair. By the way
John, did they confirm the problem and tell you what they fixed/changed?
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
Way to go Kyle! Be sure to post some pics and keep us posted on test phase.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage/finish kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 8:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: It Flies!
>
>
> N46KB flew today. It was a brief flight - 30 minutes or so.
>
> Looks like I've got 3 bugs to work out:
>
> 1) Light right wing. Even with full manual trim, I was still holding a
> pound or two of stick force.
> 2) I need to add a washer to the oil pressure relief valve to get a few
more
> PSI.
> 3) There is a small oil leak somewhere. I have not pulled the cowl, so
I'm
> not sure if we're talking a loose fitting or what.
>
> First flight observations:
>
> Takeoff acceleration wasn't blistering, and I'm only getting around 2200
RPM
> on climbout. I didn't check the VSI, but it climbed well. Obviously,
I've
> got a fair amount of pitch in the prop.
>
> In cruise, once I got it wound up, I saw 2700 RPM @ 24+ inches of MP
> straight and level, and 170 Knots indicated @ 5000'. CHT's were below 400
> degrees all the way around, and the oil temp topped out at 210 or 215
> degrees. All of these readings are subject to calibration errors.
>
> The takeoff and landing were great (OK, ugly, but at least I don't have to
> make any structural repairs before I fly again.).
>
> Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
> RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Svajda" <dsvajda(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Riveting in tight spots |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kelsonhoffrv9(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 6:41 PM
Subject: RV-List: Riveting in tight spots
>
> What are folks using to rivet in those tight little spots where your
squeezer
> won't fit, a (normal?) bucking bar won't fit, etc. >
Curt,
I've had good success on AD-3 rivets with a 3/8 inch thick piece of steel I
found in the bucking bar bin at Airparts, the place that advertises with the
picture of the lady in the roll of aluminum. I also have a broken crescent
wrench that I ground down to a little thicker than 1/4 of an inch. Works
great near the pointy end of the control surfaces. If it's so tight that
it looks like I can only buck one side of the control surface, the bottom
side gets the pop rivet that Paul Bessing suggests.
Dave Svajda
6/6A Flaps
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Storo" <ERSF2b(at)oregoncoast.com> |
ALAS! Alas! I can not find my log book. I have tried blaming the dog,
wife, Corriolus effect, and finally myself.
Does anyone know how, or what to do to re-establish a new log book? The
good news is that I only have 60 hours on the machine, and have the
engine log. (My repairman's certificate was stapled to the last page so
I wouldn't loose it).
Ed Storo RV-8 60hrs (or so says the tach)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | LeastDrag93066(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Riveting in tight spots |
In a message dated 03/01/2001 4:45:56 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Kelsonhoffrv9(at)AOL.COM writes:
> What are folks using to rivet in those tight little spots where your
> squeezer
> won't fit, a (normal?) bucking bar won't fit, etc. My current issue is the
> last rivet at the trailing edge of a flap rib. There is a 1/4" between the
> un-driven shop end of the flush rivet and the inside of the other side of
> the
> rib. I was thinking about investing in one of the narrow squeezer jaws.
> 10 years ago when I built the tail of a -6 I remember using a piece of
> polished angle iron as a bucking bar, but don't recall it being fun. Any
> other neat tricks people are using.
>
> Curt Hoffman Loveland, OH
> RV-9A (N912WK reserved)
> Working on Wing
>
Hi Curt and All,
I bought two narrow yokes from Sid Golden for the pneumatic squeezer; one
with a machined dimple, and one with a flat surface. Unfortunely, Sid died a
couple years back.
I believe Avery has these yokes available.
I have also made another set of similar yokes for myself. If there is any
interest, I might be persuaded to make a short term loan of a set of yokes to
anyone that already has a pneumatic squeezer. Of course, if I don't get them
back, they wouldn't be available for the next person.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
jeayers1(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Static Checking (FARs) |
On 1 Mar 2001, at 9:30, Mike Robertson wrote:
> And for the purposes of this reg
> "manufacturer" means the manufacturer with a Type Certificate like
> Cessna, Beech, etc..
> Again, for the purposed
> of this reg we are not the manufacturer.
I'd like to know what information you have to support that assertion.
Has the FAA published guidance that makes the manufacturer (the
builder) somehow not-the-manufacturer for the purpose of the
transponder check regulation? I'm not familiar with such guidance,
but there's certainly a lot of stuff I don't know about.
Thanks,
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | rivets in tight places |
>What are folks using to rivet in those tight little spots where your
squeezer
won't fit,
Where it fits, I use my back-rivet plate as a bucking bar, though this
usually leaves the last rivet, and I've had some success on that one using a
three-foot crowbar. I polished the backside of the pointy end and buck
against that. Not the best bar, but it fits in there, and it does work!
Ed Winne
RV-9A wing
Palmyra PA
inventorying parts this weekend
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au> |
Subject: | Riveting in tight spots |
>There is a 1/4" between the un-driven shop end of the flush rivet and >the inside
of the other side of the rib.
Pleanty of room.
>Any other neat tricks people are using.
An axe!!! Every worthy toolkit has an axe. I'll let you decide how to
use it.. :)
Doug Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fran Malczynski" <ebafm(at)yahoo.com> |
>
> N46KB flew today. It was a brief flight - 30 minutes or so.
>
Way to go Kyle, keep us posted on how the test flights go. Congratulations
Fran Malczynski
RV6 - N594EF (finishing)
Olcott, Ny
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
Subject: | Re: NavAid Wing Rocking |
Dennis,
the weather and schedule look good for me to test the autopilot this
weekend. I am as anxious as you to know the results. I will report ASAP.
Best wishes,
John
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
Subject: | Re: Riveting in tight spots |
Hi Curt-
A neat trick my tech advisor suggested was to get a splitting wedge and
modify it as a tight area bucking bar. Grind it so one side at the end
is reasonably flat, polish the surface, and radius all the edges. Also
worked great to do the line of skin rivets on the flap bottom (your -9
is probably different here) and other tight spots. Also makes a really
cool ringing sound when you use it! ;)
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark
Kelsonhoffrv9(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> What are folks using to rivet in those tight little spots where your squeezer
> won't fit, a (normal?) bucking bar won't fit, etc. My current issue is the
> last rivet at the trailing edge of a flap rib. There is a 1/4" between the
> un-driven shop end of the flush rivet and the inside of the other side of the
> rib. I was thinking about investing in one of the narrow squeezer jaws.
> 10 years ago when I built the tail of a -6 I remember using a piece of
> polished angle iron as a bucking bar, but don't recall it being fun. Any
> other neat tricks people are using.
>
> Curt Hoffman Loveland, OH
> RV-9A (N912WK reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jan Lundberg <Jan.Lundberg(at)tfhs.lu.se> |
Subject: | Tank rib question-Jim Bower |
Regarding how to keep/adjust the tankribs during fitting of the skin you
might want to try inserting a threaded bar(is that the word?) which you
insert through the tooling holes after having put two nuts between each
rib. You can then easily and precisely position the ribs and if youre not
satified you can easily reposition them, even though you need to remve the
skin to do that. If you also put large washers under each nut they will
help keeping the rib perpendicular to the threaded bar/tank baffle/tank
skin. (The bars are easily available at any hardware store here I Sweden
and Im convinced they must be in the US as well).
The only problem with this is that it takes a lot of screwing (no pun intended)
to get the nuts in the proper place between the ribs, however if you can
find nuts intended to join threaded bars together, you could cut it in
smaller pieces and make a joint between each rib. (I didnt use those
"longer" nuts myself but made do with the ordinary nut, which of course
necessitated a clean cut of the bar to give enough strength to hold them
together).
Happy landings!
Jan Lundberg
RV 6 just starting my canopy ordeal!
Jan Lundberg
Trafikflyghskolan, TFHS
School of Aviation Lund University
SE.260 70 LJUNGBYHED
WWW.ldc.lu.se/tfhs
e-mail:jan.lundberg(at)tfhs.lu.se
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Subject: | Re: Static Checking (FARs) |
I think the bottom line here is that WHOEVER does the transponder check
whether it's the manufactuer or the radio shop, must be certified and use
certified equipment to do the test.
Dave
Tim Lewis wrote:
>
> On 1 Mar 2001, at 9:30, Mike Robertson wrote:
>
> > And for the purposes of this reg
> > "manufacturer" means the manufacturer with a Type Certificate like
> > Cessna, Beech, etc..
>
> > Again, for the purposed
> > of this reg we are not the manufacturer.
>
> I'd like to know what information you have to support that assertion.
> Has the FAA published guidance that makes the manufacturer (the
> builder) somehow not-the-manufacturer for the purpose of the
> transponder check regulation? I'm not familiar with such guidance,
> but there's certainly a lot of stuff I don't know about.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
> ******
> Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
> RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
> http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
> ******
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert Whitaker <rmwhitaker(at)lanl.gov> |
Subject: | RV-6 Empennage For Sale |
Several years back I bought a completed RV-6 empennage from
an AP in anticipation of building a 6. Soon thereafter, Van's
introduced the RV-9 and I changed my mind on what airplane to
build. I'm well along on my RV-9 empennage and my wife says that
I have to rid the spare bedroom of the RV-6 tail feathers.
So here's the deal. I'll let the empennage go for $650. I'll even
throw in the RV-6 preview plans. I'm located in northern New
Mexico. Contact me off line at the above address and/or at
rkwhit1(at)msn.com.
Regards
Rob
RV-9 Emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Kyle,
Congratulations on becoming airborne. It sure sounds like you have a lot of
pitch in that prop. Now its time to enjoy.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A 30+ hours
>From: KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: It Flies!
>Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 21:54:43 EST
>
>
>N46KB flew today. It was a brief flight - 30 minutes or so.
>
>Looks like I've got 3 bugs to work out:
>
>1) Light right wing. Even with full manual trim, I was still holding a
>pound or two of stick force.
>2) I need to add a washer to the oil pressure relief valve to get a few
>more
>PSI.
>3) There is a small oil leak somewhere. I have not pulled the cowl, so
>I'm
>not sure if we're talking a loose fitting or what.
>
>First flight observations:
>
>Takeoff acceleration wasn't blistering, and I'm only getting around 2200
>RPM
>on climbout. I didn't check the VSI, but it climbed well. Obviously, I've
>got a fair amount of pitch in the prop.
>
>In cruise, once I got it wound up, I saw 2700 RPM @ 24+ inches of MP
>straight and level, and 170 Knots indicated @ 5000'. CHT's were below 400
>degrees all the way around, and the oil temp topped out at 210 or 215
>degrees. All of these readings are subject to calibration errors.
>
>The takeoff and landing were great (OK, ugly, but at least I don't have to
>make any structural repairs before I fly again.).
>
>Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
>RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Static Checking (FARs) |
I can't agree with you more about the TCAS aircraft, especially if you are
operating in Class B airspace. Thats one of the reasons I wanted to add a
few more checks on our -8A.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: GRGSCHMIDT(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Static Checking (FARs)
>Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 22:09:29 EST
>
>
>Mike,
>It really should say Pitot because we end up checking the airspeed
>indicator
>by evacuating the static system anyway. At our facility, we typically find
>leaks in some aircraft in both systems during the two year inspections and
>I
>suppose one may find it's way into my RV and I plan on going through the
>full
>IFR certification process just as if it were a Wichita Spam can.
> I can only think about how important this information may be for an
>aircraft
>equipped with TCAD or TCAS who is trying to avoid occupying the same
>airspace
>as me.
>
>Greg Schmidt
>PHX DVT airport
>RV6S Wiring and fiberglassing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lost log book |
Ed,
Check with your local FSDO for copies of your original logbook entires and
for a replacement of your Repairman's certificate. The repairman's
certificate is easy but not all offices make copies of the original page. I
always do because I make the second entry after the builder's initial
entry. If not then they will have enough data on file to help you at least
reconstruct the all important first couple of pages in a new logbook.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
RV-8a
>From: "Ed Storo" <ERSF2b(at)oregoncoast.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Lost log book
>Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 20:50:58 -0800
>
>
>ALAS! Alas! I can not find my log book. I have tried blaming the dog,
>wife, Corriolus effect, and finally myself.
>Does anyone know how, or what to do to re-establish a new log book? The
>good news is that I only have 60 hours on the machine, and have the
>engine log. (My repairman's certificate was stapled to the last page so
>I wouldn't loose it).
>
>Ed Storo RV-8 60hrs (or so says the tach)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gordon Robertson <gordon(at)safemail.com> |
Subject: | Riveting in tight spots |
What are folks using to rivet in those tight little spots where your
squeezer
won't fit, a (normal?) bucking bar won't fit, etc. My current issue is
the
last rivet at the trailing edge of a flap rib. There is a 1/4" between
the
un-driven shop end of the flush rivet and the inside of the other side
of the
rib. I was thinking about investing in one of the narrow squeezer jaws.
10 years ago when I built the tail of a -6 I remember using a piece of
polished angle iron as a bucking bar, but don't recall it being fun. Any
other neat tricks people are using.
Curt Hoffman Loveland, OH
RV-9A (N912WK reserved)
Working on Wing
Curt,
I just happened to have a large and heavy cold chisel in my shop,
originally intended for splitting flagstones. It weights about 3 lbs,
and comes to a chisel point at the end.
I polished the sharp end on the scotchbrite wheel, and it is exactly the
right angle to fit into those wing tips. I suggest you go to the
hardware store and look for a similar chisel. Mine is very useful.
Gordon Robertson
RV8 - fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
An oldtimer told me that you could "whack it with a sledge" to do away with
excess runout!
I conclude that dialed runout might not mean much unless you know it hasn't
been whacked.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dean <dweb5(at)adams.net> |
Subject: | RV-8A Quick Build Wings and Fuselage for Sale |
For Sale
RV8A Quick Build Wings and Fuselage for sale. All parts in new condition.
Purchased in April of 2000. Fuselage has never been out of the shipping
crate. All parts have been inventoried. The only work that has been done is
on the left wing. The bottom skin has been drilled on and dimpled but not
riveted. The wings are back in the shipping crate. So pick up will be very
easy for someone in the Midwest. The kit was received from Vans in May
of 2000.
An unexpected job change and move forces sale. Since August, I have had
little time to work on the airplane.
A new kit from Vans is $17,425.00 plus shipping. It would cost a thousand
dollars to have it shipped from Vans to the Midwest.
Please e-mail me a reasonable offer at dweb5(at)adams.net .
Located in Illinois.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jay Sewell" <sewell_fw(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Riveting in tight spots |
Curt and List,
Here's a method I got from a friend that he used on his -4 control surfaces
near the trailing edges. As you'll see, this only works on the end ribs
where you have access from the ends:
Get out your trusty back-riveting plate, and set up your flap (in this case)
as if you were going to back-rivet the rivet in question. You need a thin
steel bar to use (1/8 or 1/4 or whatever works) that's around one inch wide
and 8 inches or more long. The bucking end of this bar can be ground down
and rounded if needed to make it fit between the unset rivet and the
opposite rib flange. With the rivet in the hole (as in back-riveting), place
one end of this bar on top of the rivet shank, extend the bar out away from
the flap and block up the other end so that it (the bar) is level with your
workbench and square to the rivet. The idea here (and I know this may sound
a bit scary) is to strike the bar with a hammer somewhere in between the
block supports and the rivet itself. This is why a long bar is needed so
that you can comfortably strike this bar a safe distance away from the flap.
The force of this blow will be transferred to the rivet. Just for peace of
mind, I used a piece of 2x4 on top of the flap skin along the edge adjacent
to where the hammering/bucking would occur in case of a REALLY bad shot with
the hammer. A 3/32 rivet only takes a couple of light/moderate whacks to
set, and I found the results outstanding.
Hope the above makes sense, because it's a bit tough to describe in words
only. Unfortunately, I don't have a website to post a pic of the setup to
(the pics are packed away anyway as I'm in the process of moving), but I
could make a rough sketch and scan/email it to anyone who is interested.
Happy bucking!
Jay Sewell
RV-6 wings (and itching to get set up in the new house and get back to
building.)
Ft. Worth, Tx.
From: Kelsonhoffrv9(at)AOL.COM
Subject: RV-List: Riveting in tight spots
"What are folks using to rivet in those tight little spots where your
squeezer
won't fit, a (normal?) bucking bar won't fit, etc..........."
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jay Sewell" <sewell_fw(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Riveting in tight spots |
Curt and List,
Here's a method I got from a friend that he used on his -4 control surfaces
near the trailing edges. As you'll see, this only works on the end ribs
where you have access from the ends:
Get out your trusty back-riveting plate, and set up your flap (in this case)
as if you were going to back-rivet the rivet in question. You need a thin
steel bar to use (1/8 or 1/4 or whatever works) that's around one inch wide
and 8 inches or more long. The bucking end of this bar can be ground down
and rounded if needed to make it fit between the unset rivet and the
opposite rib flange. With the rivet in the hole (as in back-riveting), place
one end of this bar on top of the rivet shank, extend the bar out away from
the flap and block up the other end so that it (the bar) is level with your
workbench and square to the rivet. The idea here (and I know this may sound
a bit scary) is to strike the bar with a hammer somewhere in between the
block supports and the rivet itself. This is why a long bar is needed so
that you can comfortably strike this bar a safe distance away from the flap.
The force of this blow will be transferred to the rivet. Just for peace of
mind, I used a piece of 2x4 on top of the flap skin along the edge adjacent
to where the hammering/bucking would occur in case of a REALLY bad shot with
the hammer. A 3/32 rivet only takes a couple of light/moderate whacks to
set, and I found the results outstanding.
Hope the above makes sense, because it's a bit tough to describe in words
only. Unfortunately, I don't have a website to post a pic of the setup to
(the pics are packed away anyway as I'm in the process of moving), but I
could make a rough sketch and scan/email it to anyone who is interested.
Happy bucking!
Jay Sewell
RV-6 wings (and itching to get set up in the new house and get back to
building.)
Ft. Worth, Tx.
From: Kelsonhoffrv9(at)AOL.COM
Subject: RV-List: Riveting in tight spots
"What are folks using to rivet in those tight little spots where your
squeezer
won't fit, a (normal?) bucking bar won't fit, etc..........."
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
Subject: | Riveting in tight spots |
This is kind of what I did. I used a piece of an alternator bracket from a
Chevy and laid it on top of the rivet (like back riveting) and used my rivet
gun as close to the skin as possible with the mushroom set. I used a 1/4"
pice of steel on the other end of the plate to make the "drive" plate level.
Works pretty good.
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jay Sewell
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2001 7:17 PM
Subject: RV-List: Riveting in tight spots
Curt and List,
Here's a method I got from a friend that he used on his -4 control surfaces
near the trailing edges. As you'll see, this only works on the end ribs
where you have access from the ends:
Get out your trusty back-riveting plate, and set up your flap (in this case)
as if you were going to back-rivet the rivet in question. You need a thin
steel bar to use (1/8 or 1/4 or whatever works) that's around one inch wide
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> |
Subject: | Engine Shipping crate avail. Florida area |
Guy's, After un-crating my new 0-360A1A from Van's, I hate destroying the
nice shipping crate.
Anyone what it ??
Doug Gardner
Palm Harbor Florida
BTW: Engine Hanging Party 3/11, don't miss it !!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RJCLIFF77(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly |
Posting]
Hi,
Just a quick question: I'm not sure how to ask a question on the RV List.
Could you tell me the procedure to access it?
Thanks,
Russ Clifford
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
Subject: | Twin Cities RV Forum |
Fellow Listers:
Just want to announce the upcoming Twin Cities RV Forum. The MN Wing will
again be sponsoring our 7th annual gathering. This will take place on
Saturday April 21 at the Red Wing Municipal Airport in Red Wing, MN.
Hours are from 8:00 am to 5 pm. The Forum consists of guest
speakers throughout the day (beginning at 9 am), product information
displays, door prizes, Van's merchandise for sale, and our soon to be
famous RV Discount Desk where one can fax in orders to Aircraft Spruce,
Wick's Aircraft, Avery Tool, and Cleveland Tool and receive a 10% discount
the day of the Forum. We plan to have a program for wives at 10 am with
"Wife Rides" for those wives who have never been in an RV. Of course there
will be lots of RVs on display (last year we have about 27 RVs there and
about 200 people). Our afternoon guest speaker will be Jerry VanGrunsven
representing Van's Aircraft. In the evening we have a very nice banquet at
the St. James Hotel in Red Wing. Our banquet guest speaker will be Wolfgang
Irmscher from Kitchener, Ontario, Wolf was a WWII German Luftwaffe pilot and
he, along with his friend and RV builder Terry Jantzi, will give a talk on
his experiences during WWII.
The cost of the Forum is $20 for the first family member, $5 for each family
member and includes breakfast and all the activities throughout the day.
Lunch is available on site. The banquet is $25 per person. We also have
rooms available at the St. James for Saturday night and there are other
accommodations in the local area. For further
information we have a website with the details at
http://www.pressenter.com/~dougweil/rvforum.html.
Or one can contact me at 715-386-1239 or email at dougweil(at)pressenter.com.
Thanks
Doug Weiler
pres Mn Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
Subject: | Loose rivets in Pro-Seal |
I started the Pro-Seal sessions a few days ago and don't mind it at all. It
doesn't really smell that bad (except just when the large container is open)
and I find it relatively easy to work with. It sets up well in my ~65 degree
work-shop.
A problem though: When I went to rivet the fuel filler neck, I noticed that
one of the rivets seemed loose (as in spinning in its hole - not length
wise) although it looked ok. I sealed it up and ignored it. I then went on
to rivet on the filler-mounted clip that holds the fuel vent line. My
earlier observation was verified when I could easily turn the rivet around
in its hole by turning the clip.
The rivet itself is properly seated in the dimple and the shop head looks
good. Does the Pro-Seal make it do this? Even more importantly, will the
Pro-Seal hold it in place?
Are
RV-8 Fuel Tanks
C-GQRV (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kelsonhoffrv9(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Riveting in tight spots |
Thanks for all the great ideas. How many times have I said "why didn't I
think of that?" Now if I can only figure out what to do with the axe.
Curt Hoffman Loveland, OH
RV-9A (N912WK reserved)
Working on Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert Hall" <robjhall(at)earthlink.net> |
I am posting this for a friend and non-computer person, Greg
Vanderputte. This his second completed project.
RV6 N8GV TTAF 75 TTE ~1900, Lyc O-320D2A 160hp, Aymar-Deymuth (sp?)
prop, tip-up canopy, full gyro panel, KY97 comm, KT76A xpndr, Narco Nav
11 VOR/LOC, Garrmin GPS Pilot III, White w/ two-tone blue trim. $50K
US Located Colorado Springs, 719-380-7500.
This is a quality airplane and a steal IMHO. See it on our EAA chapter
web site:
http://eaa72.org/flights/index.htm
Bob Hall
RV-6, Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
Subject: | Rudder Cable Questions |
List: I am getting ready to install the Rudder Cables on my RV6-A-QB and
have a question concerning the placement of parts F-6114B&C (Plastic Strips
2" long).
As best as I can determine these strips mount vertically along the
F-610 Bulkhead via Pop Rivets?
Any one have pictures on their WebSite? On second thought how would
you get a camera positioned!!
I have all of George Orindorf's Tapes but can't remember if he
showed how the Plastic Strips are installed.
Thanks in advance Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
Subject: | Randall Henderson / RVator |
Hey Randall,
Nice shot on the cover of the 6th (and final for 2000) issue of the
RVator! Your RV-6 is looking REAL good! AL
Al Mojzisik
InAir Instruments, LLC
Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI)
AOA and SO much more!
http://www.liftreserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly |
Posting]
You just did...
Ross
----- Original Message -----
From: <RJCLIFF77(at)aol.com>
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2001 12:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly
Posting]
> --> RV6-List message posted by: RJCLIFF77(at)aol.com
>
> Hi,
>
> Just a quick question: I'm not sure how to ask a question on the RV List.
> Could you tell me the procedure to access it?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Russ Clifford
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
Subject: | Loose rivets in Pro-Seal - Problem solved! |
I solved the problem. Sorry about the hasty post to the list.
Here's what happened:
I initially forgot to install the clip for the fuel vent line and had to
drill out one of the filler neck rivets. I then fabricated the clip and
installed it. The original hole didn't get much larger as a result of
drilling the rivet out but slightly larger than the newly drilled hole in
the clip. As a result, the rivet expanded enough to stick nicely to the clip
but it was loose in the other holes (skin and neck). I drilled it out again,
drilled it out to 1/8" and replaced it with an oops rivet and it's solid
(phew!).
I spoke with Tom from Van's and he suggested that I just leave it alone
since the Pro-Seal would hold it rock solid once cured, and since it was on
the top of the tank where there shouldn't be any pressure. I felt uneasy
about it though and replaced it anyway.
Are
RV-8 Fuel Tanks
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Are Barstad
Sent: March 2, 2001 4:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: Loose rivets in Pro-Seal
I started the Pro-Seal sessions a few days ago and don't mind it at all. It
doesn't really smell that bad (except just when the large container is open)
and I find it relatively easy to work with. It sets up well in my ~65 degree
work-shop.
A problem though: When I went to rivet the fuel filler neck, I noticed that
one of the rivets seemed loose (as in spinning in its hole - not length
wise) although it looked ok. I sealed it up and ignored it. I then went on
to rivet on the filler-mounted clip that holds the fuel vent line. My
earlier observation was verified when I could easily turn the rivet around
in its hole by turning the clip.
The rivet itself is properly seated in the dimple and the shop head looks
good. Does the Pro-Seal make it do this? Even more importantly, will the
Pro-Seal hold it in place?
Are
RV-8 Fuel Tanks
C-GQRV (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Static Checking (FARs) |
Subject: Re: RV-List: Static Checking (FARs)
I have been watching this thread and wondering about the newer transponders
such as my Apollo, SL70
that display the altitude that is being reporting.
Seens to me that if the static system and altimeter are certified every two
years, and if ATC is recieving the transponder return, and the transponder
is displaying the altitude that the encoder is reporting, and this agrees
with a certified altimeter/static system this should suffice as a "self
test" of the encoder and transponder.
What say you, are the feds lagging behind technology?
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
rv-list
Just received a parts order from Van's with amongst others bags of
AN515-8R8 screws.
Funny thing is that one of the bags contains silver colored bolts all
other hardware seems to be gold colored.
Anybody seen this before??
I thought the cadnium plating is what colored them golden.
Any input is appriciated
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
Maybe this is why I build so slow. I always wanted there to be a wiff of
kerosene around my little fighter. From this morning's AOPA newsletter, for
those that missed it:
FRENCH COMPANY TO PRODUCE DIESEL ENGINE
A French company has received Design Organization Approval in Europe for its
SR 305
230-horsepower diesel engine that offers improved performance, longer TBO,
and the
ability to run on jet fuel. SMA, Societe de Motorisation Aeronautiques,
created four years
ago by Aerospatiale and Renault for the development and sales of a range of
piston
aircraft engines, plans to go into production soon. All of the testing has
been completed.
Following an administrative process, the company expects to have
certification under
the Joint Aviation Authorities (JAA) by the end of the month, said a company
official.
Through a reciprocal agreement, SMA also plans to receive FAA certification
in the
United States later this year. A price has not been announced. For more, see
the Web
site ( http://www.smaengines.com/ ).
They talk about 200 to 300 hp models. No word yet on weight, price, or
availability.
Terry
RV-8A #80729
about ready to rivet fuselage skins
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Flap mounting trick |
Hi all,
I just finished mounting my flap, and used a trick I haven't seen mentioned.
I used a 1 1/2" x 48" aluminum right angle extrusion 1/8" thick available
from Home Depot. The extrusion is perfectly straight. Check the pieces
before you buy, because one I have has a very slight kink in it. Drill the
1 1/4" spaced holes for mounting the flap in the extrusion 1/4" from one
edge using a #41 drill. Clamp the extrusion to the flap brace and rear
bottom skin with lots of cleco side grip clamps, aligning the edge of the
extrusion with the rear edge of the bottom skin. Use the extrusion as a
guide and drill the skin and flap brace with #41. Bring the flap into
position and line it up with the aileron in the neutral position and note
the gap between the rear bottom skin and the flap skin. You should see in
the neighborhood of 3/16". Now just clamp the extrusion to the hinge with
the same gap and drill. Check by just drilling 3 holes for starters and
checking the flap fit. Mount the flap and enlarge holes to #40. I plan to
use the same technique on the aileron gap fairing to assure a perfectly
straight edge.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Static Checking (FARs) |
George,
This is not quite accurate. Seeing as how your encoder for the transponder
is usig the same static source as everything else then the error could be
the same throughout the system. The ATC radar unit gets its altitude
readout from your tranponder. So if your static source is off then
everything is off to include ATC.
Mike Robertson
>From: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Static Checking (FARs)
>Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2001 15:21:22 -0800
>
>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Static Checking (FARs)
>
>I have been watching this thread and wondering about the newer transponders
>such as my Apollo, SL70
>that display the altitude that is being reporting.
>
>Seens to me that if the static system and altimeter are certified every two
>years, and if ATC is recieving the transponder return, and the transponder
>is displaying the altitude that the encoder is reporting, and this agrees
>with a certified altimeter/static system this should suffice as a "self
>test" of the encoder and transponder.
>
>What say you, are the feds lagging behind technology?
>
>George McNutt
>Langley, B.C.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 02/23/01 |
Here=E2=80=99s a win-win offer!
I am about to embark on a first-time Rocket kit build and this may be my
only one. I
would like to save $ by acquiring used tools from a Van=E2=80=99s or derivative
builder who is
finished or about to complete, and also may not be planning another.
Please do not reply through the list, but directly to me: DvdBock(at)AOL.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Builder Assistance available!! |
Builder Assistance is now available in Wichita Kansas. Wiechman Aircraft
Inc. has an opening available for any RV-series aircraft. Can help build
entire kit to flying condition or help with any stage along the way. I am an
Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic with Inspection Authorization and have more
than 12 years experience with building metal aircraft. If you need
assistance, please call Todd at 316-721-5670 and we can discuss your
specific needs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com> |
Tail kit, wing kit, and fuselage kit.
Tail complete minus fiberglass, firewall, spars, and F-404 completed.
Everything primered inside. A&P IA built in Wichita Kansas. Must sale due to
buying nearly completed RV-4..
Can build to suit for you (help you that is). Asking $8500.00. Please
contact me online or offline at 316-721-5670 and ask for Todd.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Questions |
Tom I don't remember any such part for the rudder cables on my 6A. There are
plastic tubes that allow the cable to pass through the fuselage skin. I am
guessing (don't want to dig through my plans) that the F-6114B&C are the UHMW
strips that are installed on the rear baggage wall/bulkhead and allow a pass
through for the shoulder harness cables
Gary Zilik
Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
>
> List: I am getting ready to install the Rudder Cables on my RV6-A-QB and
> have a question concerning the placement of parts F-6114B&C (Plastic Strips
> 2" long).
> As best as I can determine these strips mount vertically along the
> F-610 Bulkhead via Pop Rivets?
> Any one have pictures on their WebSite? On second thought how would
> you get a camera positioned!!
> I have all of George Orindorf's Tapes but can't remember if he
> showed how the Plastic Strips are installed.
> Thanks in advance Tom in Ohio
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | pop rivet question |
I have posted this question a couple of times, and no one responds.
What are the rules for the correct length of a pop rivet prior to pulling?
Thanks, Bob building first tank.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Subject: | Re: Static Checking (FARs) |
George,
The static system and altimeter are not certified every two years unless you
are flying IFR. For VFR, the only thing that is checked is the transponder and
that can be bench checked in the shop. There is no requirement for the
pitot-static system or the encoder to be checked on a regular basis unless you
are IFR.
Ref: 91.411, 91.413, Appendix F of part 43.
Dave
George McNutt wrote:
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Static Checking (FARs)
>
> I have been watching this thread and wondering about the newer transponders
> such as my Apollo, SL70
> that display the altitude that is being reporting.
>
> Seens to me that if the static system and altimeter are certified every two
> years, and if ATC is recieving the transponder return, and the transponder
> is displaying the altitude that the encoder is reporting, and this agrees
> with a certified altimeter/static system this should suffice as a "self
> test" of the encoder and transponder.
>
> What say you, are the feds lagging behind technology?
>
> George McNutt
> Langley, B.C.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: pop rivet question |
In a message dated 3/2/01 7:28:01 PM Pacific Standard Time, Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< I have posted this question a couple of times, and no one responds.
What are the rules for the correct length of a pop rivet prior to pulling? >>
The rivets are rated by the manufacturer as accommodating a particular grip
range. You could attempt to get the original manufacturer's datasheet or
refer to those sizes that are sold in the ACS catalog.
Provided the mandrel can produce an adequate shop head (at least the same
bulk as the manufactured head) then at least they're not too short. Too long
is just butt ugly looking.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 3/2/01 3:43:04 PM Pacific Standard Time, gert(at)execpc.com
writes:
<< Just received a parts order from Van's with amongst others bags of
AN515-8R8 screws.
Funny thing is that one of the bags contains silver colored bolts all
other hardware seems to be gold colored.
Anybody seen this before??
I thought the cadmium plating is what colored them golden. >>
This is incorrect. Cadmium is a very silver/white soft metal. The golden
hue you see is the chromate chem film (like alodine on aluminum) oxide
treatment that they get afterwards. Hardware store Grade 8 bolts and the
like also get the chromate treatment but they are probably zinc plated steel.
So you see, the golden color is not an indication of anything related to the
quality of the fastener. Now having said that, take the AN515-8R8 screws
that Van's sent you and run (don't walk) to the nearest trash can. Drop them
in and then get some equivalent real fasteners (I recommend stainless) from
ACS or another supplier.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Static Checking (FARs) |
Hi Mike
(I haven't followed this whole thread so maybe we are both saying the same
thing).
You are correct, the altimeter and encoder are on the same static system,
therefore if that static system
is certified (leak checked) by a certified shop and the altimeter is bench
checked within limits (hysteresis
and that stuff) and the encoder can be visually verified on my transponder
readout to be sending the same
altitude information as the certified altimeter is reporting then all is
well within the encoder/transponder
combination and no further check of these components should be required.
(The only other worthwile thing that could be checked on a modern
transponder is frequency shift but that
really is redundant if ATC is getting a good transponder return).
In Canada all the bi-annual certification ensures is that the altimeter is
correct on a test bench, there are no
leaks in system, no deforimities around the static ports and that both
systems (altimeter & transponder/encoder)
are reporting the same information.
Due to design and installation of components on homebuilt aircraft the
information being displayed and transmitted
by the altimetry system(s) may or may not be correct, it will just be the
same after a bi-annual certification.
Anyone not using the manufacturers static ports & location really requires
much more sophisticated testing
than the bi-annual check requirements.
I am using Vans static ports & location, however I will probably test my
installation by flying to altitude beside
a aircraft that has been properly tested, maybe Kevin H could suggest a type
as I believe most spam cans would not qualify.
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
----------------------------------
> >George,
> > This is not quite accurate. Seeing as how your encoder for the
transponder
> is usig the same static source as everything else then the error could be
> the same throughout the system. The ATC radar unit gets its altitude
> readout from your tranponder. So if your static source is off then
> everything is off to include ATC.
>
> Mike Robertson
------
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Static Checking (FARs)
> >
> >I have been watching this thread and wondering about the newer
transponders
> >such as my Apollo, SL70
> >that display the altitude that is being reporting.
> >
> >Seens to me that if the static system and altimeter are certified every
two
> >years, and if ATC is recieving the transponder return, and the
transponder
> >is displaying the altitude that the encoder is reporting, and this agrees
> >with a certified altimeter/static system this should suffice as a "self
> >test" of the encoder and transponder.
> >
> >What say you, are the feds lagging behind technology?
> >
> >George McNutt
> >Langley, B.C.
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Michael Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly |
Posting]
>--> RV6-List message posted by: RJCLIFF77(at)aol.com
>
>Hi,
>
>Just a quick question: I'm not sure how to ask a question on the RV List.
>Could you tell me the procedure to access it?
Sure! First, to be sure you get your answer, subscribe to the list by
going to:
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
and subscribe to the list(s) you are interested in.
Then, post your question to the list by addressing it to:
rvlist(at)matronics.com
You'll get your answer via the list mail. Unless you question is very
unique, you should check the archives first. The address is linked from
the matronics.com page. It is very annoying, and considered bad form, to
ask a question that has been answered thousands of times. Questions about
which primer to use seem especially taboo.
Hope this helps
- Mike
hartmann(at)sound.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly |
Posting]
> >Hi,
> >
> >Just a quick question: I'm not sure how to ask a question on the RV
List.
> >Could you tell me the procedure to access it?
>
>
> Sure! First, to be sure you get your answer, subscribe to the list by
> going to:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
>
Uhh, how is someone who isn't on the list going to get this message? (I
copied them on this message)
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
> So you see, the golden color is not an indication of anything related to
the
> quality of the fastener. Now having said that, take the AN515-8R8 screws
> that Van's sent you and run (don't walk) to the nearest trash can. Drop
them
> in and then get some equivalent real fasteners (I recommend stainless)
from
> ACS or another supplier.
Gary, can you please provide us with some factual basis for potentially
scaring hundreds of builders with this post? Are you really telling
everyone that Van's is sending substandard, dangerous hardware for their
kits that have been carefully engineered to use this specific hardware in
this specific application?
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
ebundy(at)micron.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Thanks to all for the info.
No, I am not worried about Van's Hardware, I just thought it odd to have
a different color all of a sudden between an order of misc golden
hardware.
Is there any note of this in the AC43.13 ??
Oh Yeah Bill,
Mine happen to be for the floor also and guess what, mine is also gray,
sorry.
I probably also would need a few more as I made my floor a 3 piece
removable, but that's a different story.
Thanks for the info !!!
Gert
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: pop rivet question |
Bob,
The poprivet manufacturer will specify a range of material thickness for a
given rivet. You measure the thickness and choose the rivet accordingly.
In the case of the pop rivets supplied by Van's, I contacted Avex and
requested data sheets on their product so I knew what the shear and tensile
strength values were. Other pop rivet data is available from the ACS, Avery
or Wicks catalogs.
I used pop rivets more and more as I got closer and closer to flying! I
could have save lots of hours by using them more liberally in the early
stages of construction.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Friday, March 02, 2001 10:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: pop rivet question
>
>I have posted this question a couple of times, and no one responds.
>What are the rules for the correct length of a pop rivet prior to pulling?
>Thanks, Bob building first tank.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
Lots of fasteners are strong enough for the job. Many of them are not
corrosion proof. If you are going to use hardware that is not going to get
painted, you may want to use a similar strength part made out of something
like stainless. This applies especially to cosmetic fasteners where
strength is not really a factor. As always, check with Van before
substituting a part of the structure. As I am learning, there are lots of
reasons things get done in an airplane structure that are important, and not
obvious....
Dave Burton
RV6A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 05, 2000 11:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: AN hardware
>
> > So you see, the golden color is not an indication of anything related
to
> the
> > quality of the fastener. Now having said that, take the AN515-8R8
screws
> > that Van's sent you and run (don't walk) to the nearest trash can. Drop
> them
> > in and then get some equivalent real fasteners (I recommend stainless)
> from
> > ACS or another supplier.
>
>
> Gary, can you please provide us with some factual basis for potentially
> scaring hundreds of builders with this post? Are you really telling
> everyone that Van's is sending substandard, dangerous hardware for their
> kits that have been carefully engineered to use this specific hardware in
> this specific application?
>
> Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
> 160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
> ebundy(at)micron.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 3/3/01 1:10:09 AM Pacific Standard Time,
gregory(at)bak.rr.com writes:
<< As I am not familiar with Van's hardware, what is wrong with it? It's not
of
asian grade metallurgy, is it? I am in the planning stages for a 6, and am
an A&P. Is Van's AN hardware garbage? >>
Not at all. I was speaking of specific screws. All bolts seem fine. Just
some of the smaller screws that are supplied are of questionable parentage.
Some have found that the #8 screws supplied (such as the tank access plate
hardware) are unusually soft and have experienced twisting off and/or head
driving recesses camming out when attempting to thread them into nutplates.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 3/3/01 7:37:26 AM Pacific Standard Time, ebundy(at)micron.net
writes:
<< > So you see, the golden color is not an indication of anything related to
the
> quality of the fastener. Now having said that, take the AN515-8R8 screws
> that Van's sent you and run (don't walk) to the nearest trash can. Drop
them
> in and then get some equivalent real fasteners (I recommend stainless)
from
> ACS or another supplier.
Gary, can you please provide us with some factual basis for potentially
scaring hundreds of builders with this post? Are you really telling
everyone that Van's is sending substandard, dangerous hardware for their
kits that have been carefully engineered to use this specific hardware in
this specific application? >>
Ed-
Did you actually read my posting? I was speaking of specific fasteners.
Unless you used entirely 8-32 hardware to build your plane you should not be
concerned.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
> << > So you see, the golden color is not an indication of anything
related to
> the
> > quality of the fastener. Now having said that, take the AN515-8R8
screws
> > that Van's sent you and run (don't walk) to the nearest trash can.
Drop
> them
> > in and then get some equivalent real fasteners (I recommend stainless)
> from
> > ACS or another supplier.
>
>
> Gary, can you please provide us with some factual basis for potentially
> scaring hundreds of builders with this post? Are you really telling
> everyone that Van's is sending substandard, dangerous hardware for their
> kits that have been carefully engineered to use this specific hardware in
> this specific application? >>
>
> Ed-
>
> Did you actually read my posting? I was speaking of specific fasteners.
> Unless you used entirely 8-32 hardware to build your plane you should not
be
> concerned.
Yes, Gary, I read your post - I was speaking about the specific fasteners
you claim need to be disposed of at running speed. Allow me to re-quote
you: "take the AN515-8R8 screws that Van's sent you and run (don't walk) to
the nearest trash can." My question still stands (did you read *my*
post?) - What basis are you using to state that Van is supplying
substandard, and/or dangerous hardware for this *particular* application?
And by the way, I'm not concerned, I just don't want anyone else to be
unless you have some empirical data to support you claim.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russ Clifford" <russ_clifford(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | archive question |
For those who answered my question about how access the list, I appreciate
your help! . I looked at the archives and there is a search engine. I
typed in "corrosion protection" and it came back with 0 entries. Was that a
bad topic???? Could you give me an example of 3-4 topics that can be
searched? I think that would clear up my unfamiliarity. Thank you.
Russ Clifford
Laguna Niguel, CA
RV9 soon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Hartmann" <hartmann(at)sound.net>
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2001 11:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly
Posting]
> --> RV6-List message posted by: Michael Hartmann
>
> >--> RV6-List message posted by: RJCLIFF77(at)aol.com
> >
> >Hi,
> >
> >Just a quick question: I'm not sure how to ask a question on the RV
List.
> >Could you tell me the procedure to access it?
>
>
> Sure! First, to be sure you get your answer, subscribe to the list by
> going to:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
>
> and subscribe to the list(s) you are interested in.
>
> Then, post your question to the list by addressing it to:
>
> rvlist(at)matronics.com
>
> You'll get your answer via the list mail. Unless you question is very
> unique, you should check the archives first. The address is linked from
> the matronics.com page. It is very annoying, and considered bad form, to
> ask a question that has been answered thousands of times. Questions about
> which primer to use seem especially taboo.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> - Mike
> hartmann(at)sound.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Insurance Solictation |
Today I received an unsolicited insurance application form from SkySmith.
It perhaps came because during the building phase, I inquired at SkySmith
about builder's risk insurance. His quote was wholly uncompetitive with
Avemco's. However, due to unpublished conventions in the aviation insurance
industry, once you fill out a form with one broker, he may have claim to a
commission if you later purchase your insurance from another broker. I'd
advise builders to research the insurance issue carefully.
I am always surprised at the number of builders who have no builder's risk
insurance during the building period. However, given that Van's recommended
against builder's risk -- "a waste of money" in the words of one of Van's
technical assistants -- maybe it is not too surprising. Note that
homeowner's insurance specifically excludes airplanes and airplane parts.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 47 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV6-List: archive question |
Try different combinations like "corrosion & protection" or if you want to
get about a zillion hits try "primer"
Ross
> For those who answered my question about how access the list, I
appreciate
> your help! . I looked at the archives and there is a search engine. I
> typed in "corrosion protection" and it came back with 0 entries. Was that
a
> bad topic???? Could you give me an example of 3-4 topics that can be
> searched? I think that would clear up my unfamiliarity. Thank you.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Trusty" <dtrusty(at)iname.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV6-List: archive question |
Try something related to corrosion control, like primer or just plain old
corrosion.
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry2DT(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | RV6 Rear Top Skin |
Sorry if this question has been asked dozens of times, but didn't find it in
the archives. Anyway, I'm working on the r. top fuse skin and notice Van's
says you can either drill the bulkheads first then match drill the skin, or
mark the skin from the inside after strapping it down. Any thoughts from you
experienced builders out there? Orndorff's video only shows the latter
method, but seems to me you could get more accuracy by drilling the bulkheads
first.
Thanx all..
Jerry Cochran
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
The color of the Zinc Cromate is determined by the coating. It can be silver
or gold. It has NO BEARING on the quality of the fastener.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Bundy <ebundy(at)micron.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 06, 2000 1:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: AN hardware
>
> > So you see, the golden color is not an indication of anything related
to
> the
> > quality of the fastener. Now having said that, take the AN515-8R8
screws
> > that Van's sent you and run (don't walk) to the nearest trash can. Drop
> them
> > in and then get some equivalent real fasteners (I recommend stainless)
> from
> > ACS or another supplier.
>
>
> Gary, can you please provide us with some factual basis for potentially
> scaring hundreds of builders with this post? Are you really telling
> everyone that Van's is sending substandard, dangerous hardware for their
> kits that have been carefully engineered to use this specific hardware in
> this specific application?
>
> Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
> 160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
> ebundy(at)micron.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken Glover" <wirraway2(at)bravo.net.au> |
<<< N46KB flew today. It was a brief flight - 30
minutes or so. >>>
Kyle,
Congratulations and well done. It would be nice to
know what your final weight was.......
Cheers and take care,
Ken Glover Hunter Valley Australia RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 3/3/01 4:16:40 PM Eastern Standard Time,
wirraway2(at)bravo.net.au writes:
> <<< N46KB flew today. It was a brief flight - 30
> minutes or so. >>>
>
> Kyle,
>
> Congratulations and well done. It would be nice to
> know what your final weight was.......
>
> Cheers and take care,
> Ken Glover Hunter Valley Australia RV6A
>
Too darned much, that's for sure! 1040 lbs, to be exact. This in spite of
the wood prop, which saved quite a few pounds. The "adds" included a bunch
of steam gauges, a full interior including firewall and floorboard
insulation, the heavy Prestolite starter, and far too much paint and primer.
I was hoping for 1025 lbs or less...
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Insurance Solictation |
I dont carry insurance @ the black jack tables in
Lasvag either because the odd's are much better. do
not archieve
Joe
RV6A
--- Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
>
> Today I received an unsolicited insurance
> application form from SkySmith.
> It perhaps came because during the building phase, I
> inquired at SkySmith
> about builder's risk insurance. His quote was wholly
> uncompetitive with
> Avemco's. However, due to unpublished conventions
> in the aviation insurance
> industry, once you fill out a form with one broker,
> he may have claim to a
> commission if you later purchase your insurance from
> another broker. I'd
> advise builders to research the insurance issue
> carefully.
>
> I am always surprised at the number of builders
> who have no builder's risk
> insurance during the building period. However,
> given that Van's recommended
> against builder's risk -- "a waste of money" in the
> words of one of Van's
> technical assistants -- maybe it is not too
> surprising. Note that
> homeowner's insurance specifically excludes
> airplanes and airplane parts.
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 47 hours
> Hampshire, IL C38
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Rush" <K9HXT(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 55 Msgs - 03/02/01 |
I am about ready to take my RV-6A to the airport for assmy etc and need a tow bar.
I have not been able to get a response via e-mail from the guy
(Ken) listed in Van's catalog. Are there other sources for a good (light) tow bar
for a tri gear??
Larry, RV-6A Avon,IN....gettin close now!
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
Subject: | RV-4 fuel gauge "problem" |
Fellow Listers:
I recently replaced the old Isspro fuel gauges on my flying RV-4 with Van's
new Isspro gauges. I really like their readability and accuracy, but was
puzzled by this oddity. Initially they worked perfect (full tanks), but on
the second or third flight, the left fuel gauge would swing to near zero
after takeoff. After level off it would slowly increase sometime back to
the "correct" reading, sometimes it would linger and lag around 1/4 full.
If I turned off the master and back on, it would come back up to normal (had
about 3/4 tanks). I checked wiring, grounds, etc and thought I had a bad
gauge. Replaced it and same problem. After thinking that the sender may be
bad, it dawned on me today that this aircraft has inverted tanks (actually I
think it is just the left with the flop tube). I topped off the tanks, and
the problem does not occur.
For the RV-4 experts, do you think that the placement of the left sender, in
light of the inverted pickup, may result in the fuel sloshing back during
this lightning fast acceleration of this airplane and causing the low
reading? I don't know why it is so slow to come back to normal though after
level off, but jumps right to where it below after turning off and on the
electrical power. The right tank shows no such anomaly.
Your comments?
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 55 Msgs - 03/02/01 |
I steal the Cessna tow bar from my C172 sometimes. It works very well. I
may consider getting a used one for permanent use in the 6A. Wentworth or
other used parts houses should have them.
Dennis Persyk N600DP
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Rush <K9HXT(at)msn.com>
Date: Saturday, March 03, 2001 4:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 55 Msgs - 03/02/01
>
>I am about ready to take my RV-6A to the airport for assmy etc and need a> tow
bar. I have not been able to get a response via e-mail from the guy
>(Ken) listed in Van's catalog. Are there other sources for a good (light)> tow
bar for a tri gear??
>Larry, RV-6A Avon,IN....gettin close now!
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
Get your FREE downlo>ad of MSN Explorer at http://explorer>.msn.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV prototypes excluded from the EAA museum! |
In a message dated 3/3/2001 4:02:00 PM Central Standard Time,
wirraway2(at)bravo.net.au writes:
> Thanks Ed for bringing this important message to
> the list's attention. I have just logged off from
> Doug's www.vansairforce.net website and read the
> same storey.
>
> It is vital, that these two aircraft are housed
> inside the museum ASAP. I like many others thought
> they were "inside the museum" from day one in
> 1997.
>
Have you ever been in the museum. Its not that large and they cover all
aviation. It would be nice to see the RV3 in there, but I don't really think
they need to display an RV4. All you have to do is go to an airshow and you
will see a RV4. I would rather see planes that are rare or have a high
historical value.
But then again on the other hand the EAA could rotate the home build aircraft
they have. Thats most likely the best option.
Chris
Oshkosh, wi
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: archive question |
>
>For those who answered my question about how access the list, I appreciate
>your help! . I looked at the archives and there is a search engine. I
>typed in "corrosion protection" and it came back with 0 entries. Was that a
>bad topic???? Could you give me an example of 3-4 topics that can be
>searched? I think that would clear up my unfamiliarity. Thank you.
>
>Russ Clifford
>Laguna Niguel, CA
>RV9 soon
>
Russ,
The search engine is quite particular. If you type "corrosion
protection", with the quotes, it is looking for instances of
"corrosion protection", with quotes. If you type "corrosion
protection" without quotes, it is looking for that phrase, and you'll
get a bunch of hits. If you type "corrosion & protection", without
the quotes, it is looking for messages with both of those words in it.
There are a bunch of corrosion protection articles on the EAA Chapter
1000 web site. See:
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/corrosion/corridx.htm
There are a bunch of RV type links on my web site at:
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks.html
Good luck,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | tank skin butt joint question |
HELP!!!! I just finished drilling my tank skin to the ribs and spar (pre
punched 6). To make a long day/story short, I have a 1/32-2/32 gap between my
outboard leading edge skin and my tank skin-begining at the curve (leading
edge) and proceeding toward the aft of the tank on the bottom of the wing
ONLY. The top alignments are perfect, and the chord of the wing looks fine.
At the extreme center of leading edge I am approx. 1/32 off and continues to
2/32 at the extreme back (aft)-bottom of the wing. Is the a big deal or am I
being to picky? No one will ever see it I know. All ribs are drilled fine and
skin aligns well with all other skins except the one mentioned. Thanks in
advance, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "dave ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
Subject: | Static system test |
Has anyone with the Van's static system--RTV to pop-rivet had any
problems passing the IFR static system tests?
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
Subject: | Re: tank skin butt joint question |
Bob
I'd personally say you are being too picky. 2/32 is not much of a gap. If
that was the only mistake I had on my four I would be very pleased. Don't
worry about it and move on.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
Subject: RV-List: tank skin butt joint question
>
> HELP!!!! I just finished drilling my tank skin to the ribs and spar (pre
> punched 6). To make a long day/story short, I have a 1/32-2/32 gap between
my
> outboard leading edge skin and my tank skin-begining at the curve (leading
> edge) and proceeding toward the aft of the tank on the bottom of the wing
> ONLY. The top alignments are perfect, and the chord of the wing looks
fine.
> At the extreme center of leading edge I am approx. 1/32 off and continues
to
> 2/32 at the extreme back (aft)-bottom of the wing. Is the a big deal or am
I
> being to picky? No one will ever see it I know. All ribs are drilled fine
and
> skin aligns well with all other skins except the one mentioned. Thanks in
> advance, Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rocky <hoe-thing(at)echoweb.net> |
Subject: | transponder checks |
I'm not a builder YET! But the questions concerning the transponder
checks must be conducted by a person/shop with a First class
radiotelephone operators license. I was in the 2 way radio business and
a broadcast engineer for many years and was going to get the above
license but was told by the FAA "unless I worked on aircraft, marine or
international broadcast equipment - don'y bother with the license".
February 25, 2001 - March 03, 2001
RV-Archive.digest.vol-kh