RV-Archive.digest.vol-ki
March 03, 2001 - March 11, 2001
So if you are the manufacturer or builder or owner or whatever you can
do the transponder check yourself IF you have the required license.
If the rules have changed I have no knowledge of them being changed.
If anyone has any questions re: electronics or radio antennas I might be
of some help with 15 years or so of real experience in the field.
RV9A hopefull soon
I can be had at hoe-thing(at)echoweb.net
(forget the return address at top)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Heinrich Gerhardt" <hgerhardt(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV6-List: RV6 Rear Top Skin |
Drill the bulkheads and longerons first and backdrill the skin after you
strap it down. You need a snake drill to do some of the holes. I did that
with all my skins and it worked out great.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2001 12:25 PM
Subject: RV6-List: RV6 Rear Top Skin
--> RV6-List message posted by: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
Sorry if this question has been asked dozens of times, but didn't find it in
the archives. Anyway, I'm working on the r. top fuse skin and notice Van's
says you can either drill the bulkheads first then match drill the skin, or
mark the skin from the inside after strapping it down. Any thoughts from you
experienced builders out there? Orndorff's video only shows the latter
method, but seems to me you could get more accuracy by drilling the
bulkheads
first.
Thanx all..
Jerry Cochran
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 55 Msgs - 03/02/01 |
In a message dated 3/3/01 2:29:22 PM Pacific Standard Time, K9HXT(at)msn.com
writes:
<< I have not been able to get a response via e-mail from the guy
(Ken) listed in Van's catalog. Are there other sources for a good (light) tow
bar for a tri gear?? >>
Has someone broken your phone?
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Tools, etc. for sale |
RVers,
I've been on the list for a couple of weeks or so just seeing what's
going on. There are a lot of new RV's flying. Congratulations to all my
old RV friends who have gotten airborne since I left the list. It's great
to see so many of you having fun with your new RVs. I'm tickled that so
many of you "old hands" have stuck around to help your fellow RVers. I'd
say the list is in great shape with a lot of helpful, knowledgable builders
helping others.
I got the word to get my shop (garage) cleaned up and have found more
tools, etc. that I need to sell. Below is a list with item and quantity.
I'll be darned if I can figure out how to export a spreadsheet into Eudora
so the columns line up, etc. so there are no prices. So, if anyone is
interested, e-mail me off list at: bskinner(at)vcn.com. I can send out an
attachment with quattro, Excel, 123, files that lists the prices. I tried
to put things into packages that new builders might be interested in and
would like to sell them intact. The last group I will sell individually.
I priced the stuff at 70 percent of the prices I found in 1995 catalogs.
Most of the stuff is used but in good shape. I do have some dies that I've
never used.
I will be in and out over the next couple of weeks but will try to get
lists & prices e-mailed out in a timely manner to the first builders who
end up in my "inbox".
Thanks,
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (former RV6 builder, now trout bum)
(no not archive)
**********************
Item & Quantity
Sets/bars/rivet cutter
Heavy duty rivet cutter 1
Bucking bar (similar to Avery #615) 1
Bucking bar (similar to Avery #620) 1
Bucking bar ACS TP 1112 (similar to Avery #625) 1
Bucking bar ACS TP 721 (similar to Avery #645) 1
Bucking bar, 1" square, long taper (good for trailing edges-ailerons,
flaps, elevators) 1
#3 straight set .401 shank 1
#5 straight set .401 shank 1
#6 straight set .401 shank 1
#4 cupped set (squeezer set) 1
1/4" flat set (squeezer set) 1
3/32" dimple dies (given to me by Art Chard-as good as Cleavlands-use for
skins) 1
#3 dimple dies (new) 1
#4 dimple dies (new) 1
#6 dimple dies (new) 1
mushroom, off set flush set (.401 shank) 1
behive rivet gun set retainer 1
quick change rivet gun set retainer 1
flush sets- 3/8, 5/15, 1/4, 3/16 height by 1/2 inch face (new) 5
roll of riveter tape 1
Drill, bits, cutters
1/2 to 1 inch Unibit (almost new) 1
.250 chucking reamer 1
old 3/8 inch air drill 1
fly cutter, 1/4 inch shank, 6" dia. hole 1
#40 strap duplicator (used & bent to fit but still works) *
(additional discount)* 1
threaded deburr bit (used) 1
rivet shaver threaded bits (used) *
(additional discount)* 1
5/32" threaded, piloted countersink 1
1/8" threaded, piloted countersink 2
3/32" threaded, piloted countersink 1
#19 threaded drill bit 1
#30 threaded drill bit 1
#40 threaded drill bit 4
US Tools snake drill for use with threaded drill bits 1
12" long drill bits: two #30, one 3/16" and one 1/4" (1/4" needs
sharpening) * 4
#40 and #30 drill stops 2
mainly 30,40, 41, used drill bits. Letter "D" bit & misc (some long and
threaded) * 52
bolt gauge 1
Wiss straight snip 1
Clamps
ratcheting web band clamps 2 Pony, 1 Craftsman 3
1 inch "C" clamps 7
2 inch "C" clamps 21
spring clamps (Avery) 1" jaw opening 8
Misc. Available individually
3/32 dimple dies (Avery) 1
#4 dimple dies (new) 1
Aircraft Spruce swivel cockpit light, red (adhesive not used) 1
30 inch long, ACS ratcheting red handled, .050 wire end control cable 1
Rolo flare tool (Avery) will do 1/8 inch primer lines 1
Avery spring tubing bender set 1
Piper blade type pitot/static tube (used) 1
Plunger type engine primer 1
Flexitallic SL 776611 exhaust gaskets 4
oil/air separator & homemade attach bracket 1
keyed, off-on-left, right, both mag switch (no start position) salvage out
of Cherokee 1
Heavy duty, welded angle wing spar mounts with angle supports 4
Ruggles aircraft scales 3
Heavy duty, screw in anchors (suitable for Super cub, etc. Too big for
RV's) 1
non swivel, Van's tailwheel fork (primed) 1
Prestolite starter (off a Cherokee 140)
alternator (off a Cherokee 140)
Hobby Air fresh air system
right mag (no gear) about 250 hours since overhaul
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insurance Solictation |
Well as I am an insurance agent, I will try to help straighten out some stuff
her. Also before I hear to many complaints I can spell, I just can't type.
Now that thats out of the way here goes.
In a message dated 3/3/2001 1:48:25 PM Central Standard Time,
dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
> Today I received an unsolicited insurance application form from SkySmith.
> It perhaps came because during the building phase, I inquired at SkySmith
> about builder's risk insurance.
Its a application for a quote, anyone can send them to you and they really
mean nothing.
His quote was wholly uncompetitive with > Avemco's.
Thats going to be true for any company for builders risk. Every company but
Avemco requires liability on the aircraft while building. Thats makes avemco
cheaper, however its not always the best casue you can have liability issues
while building.
However, due to unpublished conventions in the aviation insurance
> industry, once you fill out a form with one broker, he may have claim to a
> commission if you later purchase your insurance from another broker.
>
this is not true, he has no claim to commission and can not be paid on
something he didnt write. However some companies will require a agent of
record letter to let you get a quote from the same company though a different
agent. There is a reason for this as there are only 10 companies including
avemco writing aviation insurance.
> advise builders to research the insurance issue carefully.
Very good idea.
>
> I am always surprised at the number of builders who have no builder's risk
> insurance during the building period. However, given that Van's recommended
> against builder's risk -- "a waste of money" in the words of one of Van's
> technical assistants -- maybe it is not too surprising. Note that
> homeowner's insurance specifically excludes airplanes and airplane parts.
Well this is true, I know with my F1 rocket the kit is 30,000 plus. I want
it insured, the risk is slight that it will be damaged, but 382 bucks a year
for 50,000 in coverage is worth while. Since tornados and fires do happen.
Insurance is only a waste of money if you have enough money to replace what
you lose. And that is called self insuring.
Homeowners insurance does excluded aircraft and parts. Also stuff in your
hanger is not covered beyond a certain amount by your homeowners insurance.
Generally that amount is 2500. I know my tools and toys that i use out there
are worth more then 2500 dollars.
If you decide to insure its a matter of personal risk management. If i was
building a slow build kit I would not insure right away, however I personally
cant afford to lose the 40,000 i have into my kit. Nor do i want to rebuild
it, i would pay to have that down and that also is covered in my builders
risk policy.
thanks
chris wilcox, President f1 rocket builder ki yf 000
CGW Insurance/Investments
www.cgwi.com
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 47 hours
> Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Rear Top Skin |
The drilling the bulkheads method is what I used for my slow build for the entire
fuselage. Works great
Gary
Jerry2DT(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Sorry if this question has been asked dozens of times, but didn't find it in
> the archives. Anyway, I'm working on the r. top fuse skin and notice Van's
> says you can either drill the bulkheads first then match drill the skin, or
> mark the skin from the inside after strapping it down. Any thoughts from you
> experienced builders out there? Orndorff's video only shows the latter
> method, but seems to me you could get more accuracy by drilling the bulkheads
> first.
>
> Thanx all..
>
> Jerry Cochran
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Bell" <dbell(at)manisteenational.com> |
| Subject: | Ellison Throttle Body |
Guys,
Hate to ask again, but I am not finding many resources for fliers using
the Ellison Throttle Body....Thanks to the two responses that I recieved
from my earlier post.
Do any of you know anyone currently flying using an Ellison Throttle
body? I have a marvel carb as well and have spent many hours trying to
adapt to the throttle bodies unique installation. The unknown is
starting to bother me and I am considering just shelfing it and putting
the carb on. If any of do know of someone, in an rv or any other type,
please respond off list if need be.
Thanks,
Doug Bell, PGA
8 QB
A little of all the firewall forward stuff
( A golf pro pushing hard to get all possible things done before the
snow melts)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance Solictation |
-----Original Message-----
From: CW9371(at)AOL.COM <CW9371(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Saturday, March 03, 2001 9:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Insurance Solictation
>
>Well as I am an insurance agent, I will try to help straighten out some
stuff
>her. Also before I hear to many complaints I can spell, I just can't type.
>Now that thats out of the way here goes.
>
>
>In a message dated 3/3/2001 1:48:25 PM Central Standard Time,
>dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
>
>
>> Today I received an unsolicited insurance application form from SkySmith.
>> It perhaps came because during the building phase, I inquired at SkySmith
>> about builder's risk insurance.
>
>Its a application for a quote, anyone can send them to you and they really
>mean nothing.
>
> His quote was wholly uncompetitive with > Avemco's.
>
>Thats going to be true for any company for builders risk. Every company
but
>Avemco requires liability on the aircraft while building. Thats makes
avemco
>cheaper, however its not always the best casue you can have liability
issues
>while building.
>
> >
>thanks
>chris wilcox, President f1 rocket builder ki yf 000
>CGW Insurance/Investments
>www.cgwi.com
>
>>
>> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 47 hours
>> Hampshire, IL C38
>
Thanks for clearing things up Chris. There is just one nagging point in
your comments, however. That is the bit about "you can have liability
issues while building". Now in the sample policies I read, the liability
applied only to aircraft in motion, and with issued airworthiness
certificates. So please explain how such liability insurance would apply to
a shop full of parts. It certainly escapes me! I would certainly like to
know how I misread the sample policies because to my layman's understanding,
they were intended for flying aircraft and added not one iota of added
insurance to my unfinished plane. This view, by the way, was supported by my
insurance broker, whom I trust. He told me to go to Avemco while building
and turn to him when it was time to fly. That's what I did.
Dennis Persyk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | " theslumlord" <theslumlord(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | PVC pipe used as air lines |
Air pressure inside PVC pipe accelerates a process where the PVC becomes
brittle. When it explodes, shards of plastic fly everywhere. A plumber
showed me some normal looking PVC he had removed from an air line that he
said had been imbrittled by compressed air. He threw a piece on the floor
and stomped on it, breaking it into many plastic daggers! I remember seeing
a CAL-OSHA bulletin some years back warning of the dangers of PVC used as
compressed air lines.
Ralph Bookout, Certified Slumlord
RV6 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tip Ribs Alignment (Was "Tank...Jim Bower) |
Builders,
Here is much simpler and faster method for spacing and aligning tip and tank
ribs, learned from professional and multiple RV builder, Paul Irlbeck.
String two taunt lengths of strong masking or filament tape between the jig
ends about four to five inches down from the tips along both the upper and
lower (airfoil) sides. Space and adhere the rib flanges to both tapes. Using
this two "sticky" contact and hold method you will also be able to take out
any moderate amount of rib(s) twist.
Jack Blomgren, Red Wing, MN
-8 wings, Twin City Wing (hmm, so many "wings")
>From: Jan Lundberg <Jan.Lundberg(at)tfhs.lu.se>
>Subject: RV-List: Tank rib question-Jim Bower
>Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2001 16:03:58 +0100 (MET)
(Snip) a threaded bar...through the tooling holes after having put two nuts
between each rib.
(Snip)
>Jan Lundberg
>RV 6 just starting my canopy ordeal!
>
>Jan Lundberg
>Trafikflyghskolan, TFHS
>School of Aviation Lund University
>SE.260 70 LJUNGBYHED
>WWW.ldc.lu.se/tfhs
>e-mail:jan.lundberg(at)tfhs.lu.se
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com> |
| Subject: | Insurance Solictation (sic). |
You don't have to spell. You just need to know how to click on the "Tools"
menu and pick "spelling". Lets face it, your message would be better
received if it was spelled correctly.
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of CW9371(at)AOL.COM
Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2001 10:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Insurance Solictation
Well as I am an insurance agent, I will try to help straighten out some
stuff
her. Also before I hear to many complaints I can spell, I just can't type.
Now that thats out of the way here goes.
In a message dated 3/3/2001 1:48:25 PM Central Standard Time,
dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
> Today I received an unsolicited insurance application form from SkySmith.
> It perhaps came because during the building phase, I inquired at SkySmith
> about builder's risk insurance.
Its a application for a quote, anyone can send them to you and they really
mean nothing.
His quote was wholly uncompetitive with > Avemco's.
Thats going to be true for any company for builders risk. Every company but
Avemco requires liability on the aircraft while building. Thats makes
avemco
cheaper, however its not always the best casue you can have liability issues
while building.
However, due to unpublished conventions in the aviation insurance
> industry, once you fill out a form with one broker, he may have claim to a
> commission if you later purchase your insurance from another broker.
>
this is not true, he has no claim to commission and can not be paid on
something he didnt write. However some companies will require a agent of
record letter to let you get a quote from the same company though a
different
agent. There is a reason for this as there are only 10 companies including
avemco writing aviation insurance.
> advise builders to research the insurance issue carefully.
Very good idea.
>
> I am always surprised at the number of builders who have no builder's
risk
> insurance during the building period. However, given that Van's
recommended
> against builder's risk -- "a waste of money" in the words of one of Van's
> technical assistants -- maybe it is not too surprising. Note that
> homeowner's insurance specifically excludes airplanes and airplane parts.
Well this is true, I know with my F1 rocket the kit is 30,000 plus. I want
it insured, the risk is slight that it will be damaged, but 382 bucks a year
for 50,000 in coverage is worth while. Since tornados and fires do happen.
Insurance is only a waste of money if you have enough money to replace what
you lose. And that is called self insuring.
Homeowners insurance does excluded aircraft and parts. Also stuff in your
hanger is not covered beyond a certain amount by your homeowners insurance.
Generally that amount is 2500. I know my tools and toys that i use out
there
are worth more then 2500 dollars.
If you decide to insure its a matter of personal risk management. If i was
building a slow build kit I would not insure right away, however I
personally
cant afford to lose the 40,000 i have into my kit. Nor do i want to rebuild
it, i would pay to have that down and that also is covered in my builders
risk policy.
thanks
chris wilcox, President f1 rocket builder ki yf 000
CGW Insurance/Investments
www.cgwi.com
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 47 hours
> Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: archive question |
In a message dated 3/3/2001 11:58:30 AM Pacific Standard Time, tedd(at)telus.net
writes:
> I just did that, and got 202 messages. That's a
> logical "and." If you want to broaden your search even more, you can enter
> "corrosion | protection" (a logial "or"). Then the engine will search for
> an message that has either the word corrosion or the word protection in it.
> I just did that, and got 1682 messages!
>
Where is the vertical line found for logical or ??? I don't have one of
these on my keyboard.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV prototypes excluded from the EAA museum! |
> In all probability they are stored inside waiting until they can be
restored
> with a new pristine paint job. They make every effort to make them a good
> looking as they can and of course this all takes money.
Well, when our EAA chapter (105) finished with the restoration it sure
didn't need paint, or anything else for that matter. It was painted in
original colors at Van's just before being trucked to Wisconson. I played a
small part, but lots of other people worked REALLY hard to get it out there
in "museum quality" condition in time for its 25th anniversary. I didn't
realize it hadn't made it into the museum yet. And they're giving priority
to the V-Jet? Amazing. My letter will be forthcoming.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insurance Solictation |
In a message dated 3/3/2001 10:13:29 PM Central Standard Time,
dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
> That is the bit about "you can have liability
> issues while building".
A couple of different ways, you are working on your kit with a friend or
friends. The airframe falls off the stand and someone gets injured. Or your
your testing the engine and someone is in the way of the prop. Some of this
could be covered under the liability of your hanger policy. Basically its
murphy's law, if it can happen it will to someone. I had a friend who had
his aircraft totaled when some one started up there kit plane. It wasnt
finished wasnt suppose to move all that good stuff, well it did and came
right out of the hanger and his plane.
It also depends on each companies policy. They are all different. Also in
regards to Avemco, I am staying with them since they will insure my F1 rocket
when its finished and the quote was 2850 a year and other companies wanted
over 5000 a year if they would even do it.
Chris Wilcox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 55 Msgs - 03/02/01 |
I just bought the "Deluxe Cessna Towbar" from Aircraft Spruce. It had the
advantage of being the lowest priced of any I looked at. I got some leads
on sources for towbars for the RV-6A from others on the RV List a few weeks
ago, but found that each of the vendors would have to build me one from
scratch. I guess the demand is not great enough to keep them in stock. I
got a very nice set of photos off list of a towbar that a gentleman made
himself. That was tempting. I like to build things. In the end, I didn't
want to wait, and I didn't want to build one myself. Save a few bucks and
buy the towbar from Aircraft Spruce.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
ready to roll the RV-6A out into the daylight (without wings)
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Rush [mailto:K9HXT(at)msn.com]
Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2001 5:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 55 Msgs - 03/02/01
I am about ready to take my RV-6A to the airport for assmy etc and need a tow bar.
I have not been able to get a response via e-mail from the guy
(Ken) listed in Van's catalog. Are there other sources for a good (light) tow bar
for a tri gear??
Larry, RV-6A Avon,IN....gettin close now!
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BERNIE KERR" <KERRJB(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Rear Top Skin |
Hi Jerry,
The problem seems to me after doing two RV 6's is that the bulkheads are so
flexible that they do not wish to stay in plane. It is difficult to drill
holes from the outside and miss all the nuances of fluting spots and breaks
in the bulkhead. If I was doing one today, believe I would drill from the
inside, but would temporarily clamp a piece of plywood to the bulkhead to
hold it in plane and drill from the inside. You can also see that the skin
is being pulled snug to the bulkhead if you are inside.
Bernie Kerr, 6A flying
>>Anyway, I'm working on the r. top fuse skin and notice Van's
says you can either drill the bulkheads first then match drill the skin, or
mark the skin from the inside after strapping it down. Any thoughts from you
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roger Embree <rembree(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Ellison Throttle Body |
Doug Bell wrote:
> Guys,
> Hate to ask again, but I am not finding many resources for fliers using
> the Ellison Throttle Body....
Doug,
The only person I recall that installed and flew with the ETB was James
Cone. I just looked through the Tri-State Wing Newsletters and found a photo
of Jim's installation in the July 1996 issue.
Try JamesCone(at)aol.com
Does anyone know if the Tri-State Newslette is still published?
Roger Embree
6A looking for M3414M's
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan McFarland" <mcfarland_bryan(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | British Columbia visit |
I would like to see and visit any RV's that are in the Vancouver and
Vancouver Island area. Will arrive in the area on the 22nd of March. Need a break
and want to visit home (WA) and BC. Contact me off line.
thanks
Bryan
mcfarland_bryan(at)hotmail.com
donot archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Retractable gear RV 4 for sale |
>
> Does any one know who the original builder of this 1988 RV4 is?
> Is this Brian Carr's that used to have a red interior?
> How did they get the gross weight up to 1800 lbs?
As a home builders (at least in the US), we may set the gross weight at
anything we want to. It would appear that with an empty weight of 1128, the
builder had to set it that high to be able to carry anthing. Whether that
high a weight is wise or not is up to the individual. Personally, I would
consider it a normal category airplane; sort of out of character for an
RV-4.
> Isn't 1128 lbs a little heavy for an RV4?
It certainly is for a fixed gear RV-4. This airplane may be a good
illustration of airplane design tradeoffs. It is heavy, and I notice the
cruise speed is not mentioned. I would guess it is little if any higher
than a fixed gear RV. That Van is a pretty smart guy.
> Is this a custom tinted canopy?
> Too bad about the paint job.
> Do these A/C actually fetch 90K USD?
>
As to whether these airplanes fetch 90K US or not, we are dealing with a
very unusual airplane. There is not much to go on. I guess the seller will
find out if it fetches that or not. I would be willing to pay more for a
nice fixed gear 4 than for this particular airplane.
My comments are not meant to deprecate this airplane. I don't know anything
about it other than what I have read. It certainly has a unique and
interesting look.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Stafford" <dstafford98(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: archive question |
I think that the collection of lists RV-6, RV-4, etc... are all archived
into the common RV-List. When searching you may get more hits by searching
the RV-List archive and not the RV-6 list. Also, the RV-List has been
archived for much longer period of time.
Also, on my keyboard the vertical bar is the shifted case of ' \ '
(backslash). This is used sometimes to represent a logical OR.
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: JusCash(at)AOL.COM <JusCash(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Sunday, March 04, 2001 12:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV6-List: archive question
>
>In a message dated 3/3/2001 11:58:30 AM Pacific Standard Time,
tedd(at)telus.net
>writes:
>
>
>> I just did that, and got 202 messages. That's a
>> logical "and." If you want to broaden your search even more, you can
enter
>> "corrosion | protection" (a logial "or"). Then the engine will search
for
>> an message that has either the word corrosion or the word protection in
it.
>> I just did that, and got 1682 messages!
>>
>
>Where is the vertical line found for logical or ??? I don't have one of
>these on my keyboard.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl Fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 fuel gauge "problem" |
Sounds like a poor connection somewhere in the fuel gauge circuit.
Could be corrosion on a terminal. Just my thoughts after many years
of troubleshooting intermittent circuits in the two way radio business.
I think you checked the ground connection but that is where I would
start. You might won't to go to the AeroElectric Connection and run
it by electric Bob.
Earl RV4 still on the canopy side skirts
Doug Weiler wrote:
>
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> I recently replaced the old Isspro fuel gauges on my flying RV-4 with Van's
> new Isspro gauges. I really like their readability and accuracy, but was
> puzzled by this oddity. Initially they worked perfect (full tanks), but on
> the second or third flight, the left fuel gauge would swing to near zero
> after takeoff. After level off it would slowly increase sometime back to
> the "correct" reading, sometimes it would linger and lag around 1/4 full.
> If I turned off the master and back on, it would come back up to normal (had
> about 3/4 tanks). I checked wiring, grounds, etc and thought I had a bad
> gauge. Replaced it and same problem. After thinking that the sender may be
> bad, it dawned on me today that this aircraft has inverted tanks (actually I
> think it is just the left with the flop tube). I topped off the tanks, and
> the problem does not occur.
>
> For the RV-4 experts, do you think that the placement of the left sender, in
> light of the inverted pickup, may result in the fuel sloshing back during
> this lightning fast acceleration of this airplane and causing the low
> reading? I don't know why it is so slow to come back to normal though after
> level off, but jumps right to where it below after turning off and on the
> electrical power. The right tank shows no such anomaly.
>
> Your comments?
>
> Doug Weiler
> MN Wing
>
> ================
> Doug Weiler
> Hudson, WI
> 715-386-1239
> dougweil(at)pressenter.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dougr(at)petroblend.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ellison Throttle Body |
> Guys,
> Hate to ask again, but I am not finding many resources for fliers using
> the Ellison Throttle Body....Thanks to the two responses that I recieved
> from my earlier post.
I flew a Cassutt type airplane with an O-290D2 and VO-435 Jugs for about 200 hours.
The engine was kinda wild but worked well, as did the Ellison. If you set
up an Ellison TBI make sure you include an alternate air system. That is the
reason I quit flying it.....
The Ellison is an brilliant design and on the O-290 the fuel distribution was so
good that I could set wide open throttle and then control the power very easily
on the lean side of peak. It would peak at about 3100 rpms and then I could
pull it back to nearly 2000 rpms. It would run smoothly, all the way back till
it quit. I did not run it lean of peak, but I sure could have.
From an operational standpoint it worked like a cross between fuel injection and
a carb. A primer is imperative as the TBI will not deliver fuel until the engine
is running. Just like any fuel injection system, with a fixed pitch propellor,
any change in configuration, ie power, speed, or altitude requires attention
to the mixture. It worked better if you leaned it during taxi too. Typically,
even at low altitudes I leaned the engine on take off, then would richen
it up as I accelertated in climb. (again, just like my bendix on the RV-4)
The Ellison is light, simple, workable and had tremendous fuel distribution. It
requires more operator intervention than a carb, but I am certian it would yield
more power than a carb for much less weight, and it would work upside down.
I would not hesitate to buy or fly an airplane with an Ellison TBI.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan McKeen" <amckeen(at)twcny.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Ellison Throttle Body |
Doug, do not put the Ellison on the self. If you do not use it, then
offer it for sale to the RV-List.
I have an Ellison on my O-320 powered RV-6 that functions very well. It
came on the salvaged engine that I acquired. Because it was used with
about 500 hours of service, I sent it back to the Ellison shop for
overhaul. Cost overhaul cost was small. This Ellison has functioned
flawless for over 410 hours on my RV-6.
From: "Doug Bell" <dbell(at)manisteenational.com>
Subject: RV-List: Ellison Throttle Body
Guys,
Hate to ask again, but I am not finding many resources for fliers using
the Ellison Throttle Body....Thanks to the two responses that I recieved
from my earlier post.
Do any of you know anyone currently flying using an Ellison Throttle
body? I have a marvel carb as well and have spent many hours trying to
adapt to the throttle bodies unique installation. The unknown is
starting to bother me and I am considering just shelfing it and putting
the carb on. If any of do know of someone, in an rv or any other type,
please respond off list if need be.
Thanks,
Doug Bell, PGA
8 QB
A little of all the firewall forward stuff
( A golf pro pushing hard to get all possible things done before the
snow melts)
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 3/3/01 9:16:40 AM Pacific Standard Time, Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
writes:
>
> Not at all. I was speaking of specific screws. All bolts seem fine. Just
> some of the smaller screws that are supplied are of questionable parentage.
>
> Some have found that the #8 screws supplied (such as the tank access plate
> hardware) are unusually soft and have experienced twisting off and/or head
> driving recesses camming out when attempting to thread them into nutplates.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
>
>
I would like to coment here, I replaced some of the 8-32 flat
head screws that Van supplies with stainless, I have no problem with the
tensil strength, but they are soft, the phillips head strips out a lot
easier, I`m going to put the steel ones back in
Fred LaForge RV-4 180 CS EAA tech counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Parker43rp(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Ellison Throttle Body |
Doug-- I am using an Ellison on my RV-6 and also one on my aerobatic Laser.
I have used one of Van's custom air boxes coupled to the Ellison on the RV-6.
This has been designed to fit the cowl and also contains the required carb
heat provision. Also a very fine fuel filter is required upstream in the
system[see Ellison about this]. For best results you should install a primer
system on the engine. I am well satisfied with my setup after ~90hrs.
The Laser is powered with an 0-360 Lyc. and I had to mfg. my own air
induction system along the lines recomended by Ellison. I am also satisfied
with this setup. It works fine both in normal and inverted flight.
Some users have added a vapor return setup, but I found it unnecessary for my
applications. Visit Ellison 's web site for more info.
Ray Parker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | deltab(at)erols.com |
I pulled out my 6A preview plans. The tank
drawing doesn't show the slot. The fuselage
drawing does. It has a T-405 with a note, "Slot
to allow tank to pull away from fuselage in case
of accident" from a 3-98 revision, and refers you
to the Tank drawing. It doesn't appear that the
F-696 which the T-405 attaches to is similarly
slotted. Maybe that note is on the Tank drawing.
HAH!!
Bernie C.
deltab(at)erols.com wrote:
>
> I don't have any views with me, but if your
> question is "Why is this slotted?" it's so the
> tank can separate without tearing open when the
> wing hits something.
>
> Bernie C.
>
> Albert Gardner wrote:
> >
> >
> > I haven't received the preview plans set so I don't know why T-905 Attach
> > Bracket is the shape it is. (This bracket attaches to the inboard leading
> > edge of the fuel tank and estends into the wing root/fuselage area.) Are we
> > just trying to remove extra material or is the shape critical for some
> > reason?
> > Albert Gardner
> > Yuma, AZ
> > RV-9A: Tail done, working on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Kyle,
CONGRATULATIONS WELL DONE !!!!!!!
Chuck Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (F/G work almost done)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Rear Top Skin |
What I did here was much like Bernie. I laid out the holes on the bulkhead
and drilled them before hand. I used a piece of plywood to pull the bulkhead
straight and just clecoed through the bulkhead into the plywood for clamps.
That way you have the plywood on the other side of the bulkhead from the
flange. Then I strapped the skin on. I used a combination of a long drill
bit on a regular drill and 90 degree angle drill with short bit with my wife
backing the location outside with a piece of wood and clecoing. I laid on a
bunch of pillows. Put plywood or something on the baggage floor skins to
avoid denting them with elbows and stuff. Saftey glasses are needed for all
the chaff that falls right in your face.
Ed Holyoke
RV-6 QB
----- Original Message -----
From: "BERNIE KERR" <KERRJB(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2001 6:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6 Rear Top Skin
>
> Hi Jerry,
>
> The problem seems to me after doing two RV 6's is that the bulkheads are
so
> flexible that they do not wish to stay in plane. It is difficult to drill
> holes from the outside and miss all the nuances of fluting spots and
breaks
> in the bulkhead. If I was doing one today, believe I would drill from the
> inside, but would temporarily clamp a piece of plywood to the bulkhead to
> hold it in plane and drill from the inside. You can also see that the skin
> is being pulled snug to the bulkhead if you are inside.
>
> Bernie Kerr, 6A flying
>
>
> >>Anyway, I'm working on the r. top fuse skin and notice Van's
> says you can either drill the bulkheads first then match drill the skin,
or
> mark the skin from the inside after strapping it down. Any thoughts from
you
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
This was also covered recently in an issue of RVATOR.
Marty
----- Original Message -----
From: <deltab(at)erols.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 11:51 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-9A T-905
>
> I pulled out my 6A preview plans. The tank
> drawing doesn't show the slot. The fuselage
> drawing does. It has a T-405 with a note, "Slot
> to allow tank to pull away from fuselage in case
> of accident" from a 3-98 revision, and refers you
> to the Tank drawing. It doesn't appear that the
> F-696 which the T-405 attaches to is similarly
> slotted. Maybe that note is on the Tank drawing.
> HAH!!
>
> Bernie C.
>
> deltab(at)erols.com wrote:
> >
> > I don't have any views with me, but if your
> > question is "Why is this slotted?" it's so the
> > tank can separate without tearing open when the
> > wing hits something.
> >
> > Bernie C.
> >
> > Albert Gardner wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > I haven't received the preview plans set so I don't know why T-905
Attach
> > > Bracket is the shape it is. (This bracket attaches to the inboard
leading
> > > edge of the fuel tank and estends into the wing root/fuselage area.)
Are we
> > > just trying to remove extra material or is the shape critical for
some
> > > reason?
> > > Albert Gardner
> > > Yuma, AZ
> > > RV-9A: Tail done, working on wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | New web site:www.fairings-etc.com |
To all RV builders,
My web site up and running. It is: http://www.fairings-etc.com
I also have a new e-mail address. It is: bob@fairings-etc.com
Look the web site over and let me know what you think. Being new at this, I
would like your input.
If you wish to order something feel free to do so. I will confirm the order
by phone or e-mail. If I don't get back to you within four days rattle my
cage at the above e-mail or at imfairings(at)aol.com I will keep this old
address for some time.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
In the middle of doing my conditional inspection, decided after 3 years on
the same faithful battery, a new one was due. Ordered a Concord RG-25 from
Vans. Got it out of the box today as I was pulling the old one and noticed
that the top of the new one is WAY different. The old batteries had a black
rectangular cover to cover the cell openings with a cord handle for
carrying. The original plans call for a "U" shaped hold-down bar that fits
down on top of that black cover. A fairly hefty chunk of aluminum to hold
that lug of a battery down.
Problem: the new battery has a build-in handle moulded into the top of the
battery that precludes using my old hold-down bar.
What do the current plans show for battery hold down? Does there need to be
that big of a chunk of metal holding it down? You don't want the battery
going anywhere.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Extending the time I am not taking advantage of this good
weather...............
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 fuel gauge "problem" |
Earl Fortner wrote:
> Sounds like a poor connection somewhere in the fuel gauge circuit.
I recall some time ago a lister mentioned that the ground path for the
fuel sender was by design through the mounting screws for the sender,
and suggested a tapped hole in the sender plate itself to locate a
ground wire return to the airframe or system ground. I tapped a 10-32
hole between two of the sender mounting holes for a screw just long
enough to pass through the plate (flush on gasket side). Will attach
ground wire with ring lug here with star washer. Long way from finding
out, but this should be sufficient. Perhaps even a similar wire under
one of the mount screws would suffice...
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Didn't someone say that the new sealed batteries do not need a box? My
aluminum standard box had to be severely hacked to allow installation.
Worse, on installing the box, it would short to the battery plus post
yielding fireworks! I then added tape to prevent that.
I am considering removing the top of the box completely and adding 2 or 3
rubber stretch cords to hold the battery down.
The ideal box (if any!) would be plastic, at least the top.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/03/01 |
Heres a win-win offer!
I am about to embark on a first-time Rocket kit build and this may be my only
one. I
would like to save $ by acquiring used tools from a Vans or derivative
builder who is
finished or about to complete, and also may not be planning another.
Please do not reply through the list, but directly to me: DvdBock(at)AOL.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Retractable gear RV 4 for sale |
In a message dated 3/4/01 7:37:57 AM Pacific Standard Time, cgalley(at)qcbc.org
writes:
<< With an experimental, you can state ANY Gross you want! Whether it will
fly
correctly at that weight is another matter. >>
I would think that you would want to demonstrate whatever gross you establish
during the initial test period to verify all the data for your POH. I wonder
how heavy Jon Johansons's (sp) 4 is when loaded for ocean crossing? There's
one 6 at Livermore with an established 2100 lb gross weight (he's got the
IO-360 angle valve engine and a big wedge shaped long range fuel tank between
the seat backs and the baggage area). He flies nonstop to Mulege, Mexico.
The 1900 gross weight of my 6A with 100 lbs of sand in the baggage area and
my 230 buddy in the right seat has been demonstrated in flight. No problems
in stalls, or any other normal flight conditions, although we did fly it
around for an hour or so to lighten it up a little for landing. We normally
fly cross country loaded to about 1800 lbs. I still have the original nose
gear installed and just pulled it out for inspection yesterday at 400 hrs and
360 landings. All A-OK.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Coatings in Dallas area |
Can anyone help this fellow? Please contact him directly.
I would like to bright-coat of the tips of my exhaust where they protrude
through the cowl---about the last 6 or 8" of the stacks on my C-145. I've
found Jet-Hot Coatings and High Performance Coatings (this is the hi-temp
ceramic stuff) but would like to find a smaller shop nearby. I'm in Dallas.
Any ideas?
Bud England
Swift Association
dalswift1(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit Changes |
What great timing. I just finished doing the exact same thing yesterday.
It wasn't too bad, just time consuming removing all of the cables from the
engine, pulling them out, and running them back in. I wouldn't use the
original channel though, because it's really thin and would probably flop
around something fierce. I used a piece of 1"X2" angle that was about
.125" thick (Thanks Rob!). This is plenty thick enough to support itself,
and my panel didn't need any reinforcement because my radio trays are
mounted near the center and they are attached firmly to the panel and the
sub-panel, giving very firm support.
I used the very bottom part of the vertical channel to mount the trim knob
as low as possible above the fuel selector It's a little bit flexible, but
I think it should be fine. If not, I'll re-make it out of something
thicker. BTW, it was MUCH easier running the cables back through the
firewall without the vertical channel in the way. I'm *very* happy with the
results.
Unfortunately I forgot to take my digital camera with me, but I'll try to
get some pictures in the next few days and send them to you.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
ebundy(at)micron.net
> First (and easiest) I want to move the throttle, prop and mixture
controls.
> I built the plane per plans with the vertical channel for engine controls
> and the manual trim knob. I now want to move the engine controls to a new
> horizontal subpanel, eliminating the portion of the vertical bar above the
> manual trim control. With the vertical channel in place it is just too
> difficult to get under the panel for inspections and maintenance. Also, I
> have long legs and the vertical bar prevents me from getting full right
> aileron due to interference between the stick and my right leg.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
Put a piece of angle on the inside battery box wall at the hight of the
battery. I just got one of the new batteries, and had the old one you
mentioned and had to retro fit mine.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 1:23 PM
Subject: RV-List: New Battery
>
> In the middle of doing my conditional inspection, decided after 3 years on
> the same faithful battery, a new one was due. Ordered a Concord RG-25 from
> Vans. Got it out of the box today as I was pulling the old one and noticed
> that the top of the new one is WAY different. The old batteries had a
black
> rectangular cover to cover the cell openings with a cord handle for
> carrying. The original plans call for a "U" shaped hold-down bar that fits
> down on top of that black cover. A fairly hefty chunk of aluminum to hold
> that lug of a battery down.
>
> Problem: the new battery has a build-in handle moulded into the top of the
> battery that precludes using my old hold-down bar.
>
> What do the current plans show for battery hold down? Does there need to
be
> that big of a chunk of metal holding it down? You don't want the battery
> going anywhere.
>
> Michael
>
> RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
> Extending the time I am not taking advantage of this good
> weather...............
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <edwardmcole(at)home.com> |
LIsters,
I don't know how many of you were familiar with Amelia Reid, but she was
quite a legend in the San Jose, CA area. One of the students she was most
proud
of was Shawn D. Tucker.
Amelia recently had a stroke and sadly passed away on March 3rd at 2pm.
The funeral will be at 2 PM on Saturday, March 10th at the Oak Hill
Cemetery, and there will be a Memorial for her in her hangar on Sunday,
March 11th.
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary J. Strong" <gstrong(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Ellison Throttle Body |
Alan,
what difference do you notice w/ the Ellison over a carburated engine
(smoothness, starting, power, etc)? Also carb heat mentioned by someone,
and my impression is that with a throttle body there would be no need since
there isn't a venturi. Is this correct? I'm interested in one when I get
ready for my engine (hopefully this summer), but I didn't know how acurate
their advertisement was.
Gary S. - RV6AQB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: High Altitude Operation |
The outside air was fairly warm....OAT said 27-degrees F. The heater was
fine....I usually wear insulated coveralls as a "flight suit" in the winter,
and I didn't even notice any discomfort....I was so darn taken by the
scenery and the first time use of oxygen that I probably wouldn't have
noticed how cold I was!
Actually, it was quite comfortable.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
Thanks for posting this Ed. I used to rent from Amelia when I was going to
San Jose State in the late '60s. I think her Bird biplane is still at
Reid-Hillview. She was an amazing woman.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q
Seattle area
do not achive
----- Original Message -----
From: Edward Cole <edwardmcole(at)home.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 5:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: Amelia Reid
>
> LIsters,
> I don't know how many of you were familiar with Amelia Reid, but she was
> quite a legend in the San Jose, CA area. One of the students she was most
> proud
> of was Shawn D. Tucker.
>
> Amelia recently had a stroke and sadly passed away on March 3rd at 2pm.
>
> The funeral will be at 2 PM on Saturday, March 10th at the Oak Hill
> Cemetery, and there will be a Memorial for her in her hangar on Sunday,
> March 11th.
>
> Ed Cole
> RV6A N2169D Flying
> RV6A N648RV Finishing
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 canopy crack |
If you get set up to do a Harmon Rocket II canopy, I'd be interested.
Russ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jody J Edwards" <jodyedwards(at)juno.com>
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 5:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 canopy crack
>
> Noel,
>
> Hi. I saw your discussion about repairing canopies. I think the main
> reason builders attempt to do this is because the canopy costs so much to
> buy and ship.
>
> I started a canopy manufacturing business about a year ago. My company is
> called Todd's Canopies. So far all the canopies I have sold have been for
> composite, canard type aircraft.
>
> A builder in Ft. Lauderdale, FL is building an RV-8. He received his
> canopy and let me look at it and take measurements.
> I reproduced it perfectly.
>
> An RV-4 builder from Illinois cracked his canopy and sent it to me to
> reproduce. I am working on the tooling for this.
>
> I can manufacture RV-8 canopies now and will be able to manufacture RV-4
> canopies soon.
>
> Price? $450 for clear and $600 for a light grey tint. This price includes
> the crate and shipping in the Continental US.
> If one of my canopies crack during the installation process, I replace it
> for free.
>
> Am at my friend Jody Edward's computer cruising his RV list.
>
> Check out my web site: www.kgarden.com/todd
>
> Todd
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 canopy crack - Sorry |
Sorry, I didn't intend that to go the the list. I couldn't hit ESC fast
enough!
Russ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | tank stiffner tapper |
Where in the world are you guys seeing the dimensions for the TAPER (each end
of each) for tank stiffeners? In the ix it is obvious, but I have looked and
looked for in the drawings.
Thanks, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | tank stiffner tapper |
I didn't find it either. It shouldn't require a special taper though. I
measured 3/4" in from the end, marked it and drew a diagonal line from the
mark to the tip and cut with snips. Worked well for me and FWIW, it looks
close to what Orndorf did.
Are
RV-8 Fuel Tanks
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
Sent: March 4, 2001 11:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: tank stiffner tapper
Where in the world are you guys seeing the dimensions for the TAPER (each
end
of each) for tank stiffeners? In the ix it is obvious, but I have looked and
looked for in the drawings.
Thanks, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV prototypes excluded from the EAA museum |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> In all probability they are stored inside waiting until they can be
restored
> with a new pristine paint job. They make every effort to make them a
good
> looking as they can and of course this all takes money.
Well, when our EAA chapter (105) finished with the restoration it sure
didn't need paint, or anything else for that matter. It was painted in
original colors at Van's just before being trucked to Wisconson. I played
a
small part, but lots of other people worked REALLY hard to get it out
there
in "museum quality" condition in time for its 25th anniversary. I didn't
realize it hadn't made it into the museum yet. And they're giving
priority
to the V-Jet? Amazing. My letter will be forthcoming.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- - - -
Randall is right, The RV-3 looked great.
In fact if I remember correctly Van said it wasn't a very authentic
restoration because the paint job looked better than it did when it was
first painted.
The RV-4 that was donated was the first (proof of concept) RV-4 that was
built. The second one which is still in inventory at Van's was painted
exactly like the first one. This has caused many people over the years
to think that it was the orig prototype but it isn't. The first one had
a combination sliding/tilt to the side canopy. The fwd portion for the
pilot seat tilted over to the side and the aft portion for the canopy
slid back for the passenger. If you have seen the RV story I think there
is some video of it. It has a split line in the canopy just behind the
pilots head.
Hows that for some interesting RV trivia that you can amaze your buddies
with... :-)
It was a very tired looking airplane when donated but that is not likely
a reason that it is not in the museum. Many of the historically
significant homebuilts on display ( orig Varieze, orig Glasair TD,
etc.) are displayed in the original as received condition.
Scott McDaniels
Aurora, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: High Altitude Operation |
Actually.....John had that O2 turned up so high he was feelin' GOOD!
:-)
Sam Buchanan (gotta try high altitude RV6 flyin' some day....)
==========================
John wrote:
>
>
> The outside air was fairly warm....OAT said 27-degrees F. The heater was
> fine....I usually wear insulated coveralls as a "flight suit" in the winter,
> and I didn't even notice any discomfort....I was so darn taken by the
> scenery and the first time use of oxygen that I probably wouldn't have
> noticed how cold I was!
>
> Actually, it was quite comfortable.
> John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mdelano" <mdelano(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Coatings in Dallas area |
I had a conversation with Larry Vetterman of High Country exhaust on this
subject. I recomend you call him and hear the story for your self. Larry's
advice is DON'T do it. He has some very sound reasons to back up his position.
Mark Delano
EAA Tech. Councilor
6A Finish kit
Vanremog(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Can anyone help this fellow? Please contact him directly.
>
> I would like to bright-coat of the tips of my exhaust where they protrude
> through the cowl---about the last 6 or 8" of the stacks on my C-145. I've
> found Jet-Hot Coatings and High Performance Coatings (this is the hi-temp
> ceramic stuff) but would like to find a smaller shop nearby. I'm in Dallas.
> Any ideas?
>
> Bud England
> Swift Association
> dalswift1(at)aol.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mdelano" <mdelano(at)qwest.net> |
I have an RV6 Fuse. jig that needs a good home. Located on Centennial
Airport Denver CO. It is a well made jig used on 5 projects. Free to the
first one willing to haul it away.
Mark Delano
Ph#
303-797-1373
6A finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jayeandscott" <jayeandscott(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: RV6 Rear Top Skin |
I agree- because of the many tabs of varying length rather than the
continuous flange found on ribs, it's better to predrill the tabs to ensure
proper edge distance then backdrill the skin. I used a 12" No.40 drill and
was pleased with the results.
----- Original Message -----
From: Heinrich Gerhardt <hgerhardt(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2001 7:06 PM
Subject: RE: RV6-List: RV6 Rear Top Skin
> --> RV6-List message posted by: "Heinrich Gerhardt"
>
> Drill the bulkheads and longerons first and backdrill the skin after you
> strap it down. You need a snake drill to do some of the holes. I did
that
> with all my skins and it worked out great.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
> Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2001 12:25 PM
> To: rv6-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV6-List: RV6 Rear Top Skin
>
> --> RV6-List message posted by: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
>
> Sorry if this question has been asked dozens of times, but didn't find it
in
> the archives. Anyway, I'm working on the r. top fuse skin and notice Van's
> says you can either drill the bulkheads first then match drill the skin,
or
> mark the skin from the inside after strapping it down. Any thoughts from
you
> experienced builders out there? Orndorff's video only shows the latter
> method, but seems to me you could get more accuracy by drilling the
> bulkheads
> first.
>
> Thanx all..
>
> Jerry Cochran
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
03/05/2001 08:00:57 AM
The other day we were talking about manual trim levers and I thought I had
an original idea of using a RV-4 throttle quad attached to the arm rest.
Well heres a dandy picture of how Eustace did just that compliments of Mike
Nellis' excellent web site. Notice the long lever arm to take out the
sensitivity. So much for original ideas, I do have this cool idea about
putting an RV on floats, amphibious floats, yeah thats the ticket......
Eric Henson
Eric Henson on 03/05/2001 09:50:14 AM
cc:
Subject: Arm rest trim
http://bmnellis.com/BuilderIdeas/Images/Quadrant1.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rpflanze(at)iquest.net |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 fuel gauge "problem" |
Try gounding the fuel sender mounting plate to the airframe directly with a 22
gauge wire underneath one of the mounting screws.
>> I recently replaced the old Isspro fuel gauges on my flying RV-4 with Van's
>> new Isspro gauges. I really like their readability and accuracy, but was
>> puzzled by this oddity. Initially they worked perfect (full tanks), but
on
>> the second or third flight, the left fuel gauge would swing to near zero
>> after takeoff. After level off it would slowly increase sometime back to
>> the "correct" reading, sometimes it would linger and lag around 1/4 full.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Parker43rp(at)AOL.COM |
Also note that the polarity is opposite from the typical gel-cell battery.
Ray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelsonhoffrv9(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Follow-up to "rivet in tight spots" |
Just to let all you folks know I tried the good ideas. I had a piece of 3" X
3" angle about a foot long. I polished a corner of one of the flanges up a
little and used it to slide in between the shop end of the rivet and the
flange. Two nice whacks with my trusty hammer and a perfect rivet. Now I'm
thinking, maybe I should use this even where I can reach with a bucking bar.
It produces the same nice result as regular back riveting does.
Thanks again.
Curt Hoffman Loveland, OH
RV-9A (N912WK reserved)
Working on Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Arm Rest Trim |
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
>
>
> The other day we were talking about manual trim levers and I thought I had
> an original idea of using a RV-4 throttle quad attached to the arm rest.
> Well heres a dandy picture of how Eustace did just that compliments of Mike
> Nellis' excellent web site. Notice the long lever arm to take out the
> sensitivity. So much for original ideas, I do have this cool idea about
> putting an RV on floats, amphibious floats, yeah thats the ticket......
>
> Eric Henson
>
> Eric Henson on 03/05/2001 09:50:14 AM
>
> To: Eric J. Henson/CHASE@CHASE
> cc:
> Subject: Arm rest trim
>
> http://bmnellis.com/BuilderIdeas/Images/Quadrant1.jpg
>
I hate to tell you this but the long arm well make it more sensitive not
not less sensitive.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Required test flight hours (25 or 40?) |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
17, 2001) at 03/05/2001 09:54:44 AM
I am installing an IO-360 A1A in my RV-4. The injection system is an
after-market unit from Airflow Performance. The engine arrived from Van's
as an O-360 (carburetor) engine. The propeller is the Hartzell constant
speed offered by Van's. Here is my question:
Is the FAA likely to consider this set-up an "approved" engine/propeller
combination and require 25 hours flight testing or will I have to
accumulate 40 hours?
Thanks in advance for the help.
Dean Pichon
RV-4
Arlington, MA
Intersection fairings!
**** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one of
Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may contain
confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee
only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not
the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Required test flight hours (25 or 40?) |
Since you do not have a fuel injection system
that is certified you will have to do the 40 hrs.
Stewart RV4 Colo.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | pop rivet question |
Bob,
Each rivet has a grip range. That's the total thickness of the pieces to
be riveted.
You can't tell by looking at the rivet sticking through the hole because of
the different mandrels used in the rivets. You need the specs for the rivet
you are going to use.
Bob
RV8#423 working of fuselage pieces in my hotel room
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2001 9:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: pop rivet question
I have posted this question a couple of times, and no one responds.
What are the rules for the correct length of a pop rivet prior to pulling?
Thanks, Bob building first tank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Whitaker <rmwhitaker(at)lanl.gov> |
| Subject: | Riveting in tight spots |
Gang,
I did pretty much the same thing as described below. However,
I used a C-clamp on a custom bucking bar and "squeezed" the rivets
instead of using a hammer or rivet gun. I used a 3/4" by 3/4" bar about
7" long with the end cut down to reach in between the flanges at the
trailing end of the rudder ribs (top & bottom). It worked well for me. I'll
probably use this technique when needed in the future.
Regards,
Rob - Los Alamos, NM
RV-9 Emp.
Curt and List,
Here's a method I got from a friend that he used on his -4 control surfaces
near the trailing edges. As you'll see, this only works on the end ribs
where you have access from the ends:
Get out your trusty back-riveting plate, and set up your flap (in this case)
as if you were going to back-rivet the rivet in question. You need a thin
steel bar to use (1/8 or 1/4 or whatever works) that's around one inch wide
and 8 inches or more long. The bucking end of this bar can be ground down
and rounded if needed to make it fit between the unset rivet and the
opposite rib flange. With the rivet in the hole (as in back-riveting), place
one end of this bar on top of the rivet shank, extend the bar out away from
the flap and block up the other end so that it (the bar) is level with your
workbench and square to the rivet. The idea here (and I know this may sound
a bit scary) is to strike the bar with a hammer somewhere in between the
block supports and the rivet itself. This is why a long bar is needed so
that you can comfortably strike this bar a safe distance away from the flap.
The force of this blow will be transferred to the rivet. Just for peace of
mind, I used a piece of 2x4 on top of the flap skin along the edge adjacent
to where the hammering/bucking would occur in case of a REALLY bad shot with
the hammer. A 3/32 rivet only takes a couple of light/moderate whacks to
set, and I found the results outstanding.
Hope the above makes sense, because it's a bit tough to describe in words
only. Unfortunately, I don't have a website to post a pic of the setup to
(the pics are packed away anyway as I'm in the process of moving), but I
could make a rough sketch and scan/email it to anyone who is interested.
Happy bucking!
Jay Sewell
RV-6 wings (and itching to get set up in the new house and get back to
building.)
Ft. Worth, Tx.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Required test flight hours (25 or 40?) |
Dean, while there are guidelines for the inspectors and Dars to use it is
really up the the person who inspects the plane as to how many hours one
gets. I ended up with 40 hrs (no big deal) with my Aerosport Powered
Sensenich FP prop while another guy with the same engine, two Electroair
ignitions (with no backup battery) and a CS prop got 25.
Gary Zilik
pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com wrote:
>
> I am installing an IO-360 A1A in my RV-4. The injection system is an
> after-market unit from Airflow Performance. The engine arrived from Van's
> as an O-360 (carburetor) engine. The propeller is the Hartzell constant
> speed offered by Van's. Here is my question:
>
> Is the FAA likely to consider this set-up an "approved" engine/propeller
> combination and require 25 hours flight testing or will I have to
> accumulate 40 hours?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Wing Assembly |
> For my RV8 wing, I have thought about just clecoing the main ribs to the
> front and rear spars, then placing it in the jig to drill the skins. Then
> disassemble and prime the ribs. Anybody else try this route?
> Thanks in advance,
> Jack Textor
> RV8
> DSM
Jack,
You could do that but it would result in a lot more work on your part.
Jigging your wings can be fairly time consuming to get everything exactly
plumb. The time you would save in priming everything as a batch would be
less than the time spent re-jigging. Bottom line: I wouldn't do it.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, finishing details, fly in May(?)
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | Nyalox abrasive impregnated nylon bristle brush, coarse (gray |
bri
stles)
Listers,
I'm sure many of you have seen these before, but in my stubborness I had
never tried one before. I was prepping the 6061 stuff prior to spraying on
the Stits epoxy primer. I've never been happy with the flap sanders,
scotchbrite or other techniques for getting the oxidation off the 6061
before painting. So I went hunting for another way.
I found a GREAT tool at Home depot this weekend. Go IMMEDIATELY to the tool
section and find a Nyalox abrasive impregnated nylon bristle brush, coarse
(gray bristles). It looks like a wire wheel that you'd put in your drill
motor. It works GREAT to remove the oxidation and small scratches from your
6061 angles and barstock prior to priming. It works so much better than
sandpaper that you'll never use sandpaper or scotchbrite for this job again.
The wheel leaves the aluminum looking like it had been beadblasted. It
removes the oxidation twice as fast as the flap sander I used to use and
leaves the surface in better shape. I was very pleased.
Afterwards I etched the parts and primed them using my airbrush. Yeehah,
another job done.
Vince in Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Required test flight hours (25 or 40?) |
RVer273sb(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> Since you do not have a fuel injection system
> that is certified you will have to do the 40 hrs.
> Stewart RV4 Colo.
>
Not necessarily, I think it well depend upon the examiner more than anything.
A friend of mine here only had to do 25 hours with his Lancair 360 with the same
setup. The prop/engine combination seems to be the big factor in determining if
you get 25 or 40 hours. I notice a lot of posts on the list wondering if a person
has to do 25 or 40 hours. I personally don't see the big deal, when you first
start flying your RV it well be so much fun that you can do 40 hours in no time
at all.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Static system test |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
>
> Has anyone with the Van's static system--RTV to pop-rivet had any
> problems passing the IFR static system tests?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6
>
I have been on my static leak test "only" for 10 hours last week, so I
havn't got to the repair stattion tests yet.
I used the polyethene & brass fittings. After I fixed the leak in the
VSI, it holds pressure OK now.
I installed the plastic from Van;s without any RTV or clamps.
Don Jordan RV6A Arlington, Tx
*****************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Tim wrote:
> I have Ken's light or medium one (can't remember which). It used to
> bend all the time when I tried to use it to turn the nose wheel while
> pushing the plane backwards via the prop hub. The tow bar just
> wasn't strong enough. I ended up riveting a big piece of aluminum
> from the "T" handle all the way down to the "U" saddle that clamps
> the wheel. Ugly, but it works.
I think a 4 inch steel triangle welded across the point where the handle
attaches to the "U" would really improve the Barto Towbar.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Required test flight hours (25 or 40?) |
Even if it's 40 hours, how long can that possibly take? ;-)
I'll probably have my 40 flown off in a couple of weeks, depending.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com
[mailto:pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com]
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 6:41 AM
To: RV-List(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Required test flight hours (25 or
40?)
I am installing an IO-360 A1A in my RV-4. The injection
system is an
after-market unit from Airflow Performance. The engine
arrived from Van's
as an O-360 (carburetor) engine. The propeller is the
Hartzell constant
speed offered by Van's. Here is my question:
Is the FAA likely to consider this set-up an "approved"
engine/propeller
combination and require 25 hours flight testing or will I
have to
accumulate 40 hours?
Thanks in advance for the help.
Dean Pichon
RV-4
Arlington, MA
Intersection fairings!
**** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one
of
Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may
contain
confidential business information. It is intended for the
addressee
only and may not be copied without our permission. If you
are not
the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as
possible.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Hanging the Engine |
Maybe it's because I didn't throw a party but I am one of those who is
having a bear of a time hanging my O360 A1A on my 6A. I spent three hours
wrestling with it yesterday and another 1.5 hour on the internet searching
the archive and web sites. There is nothing anywhere to give me an idea of
what to try next. This is what I have tried.
1. Van's instructions ... put the top two mounts in place and lift the
engine to compress them and then fit the lower two mounts.
I put the two top mounts in place and threaded the bolt with only a couple
of threads. I lifted the engine and the holes line up horizontally but are
shifted right by about .5 inches. I tried lifting one side of the engine in
an effort to twist it...no luck. I have Avery's engine installation
"bullets"...no luck. The angle of the lower bolts is to severe that neither
tapping with a hammer or screwing them does anything.
2. Spoke with the local EAA Tech Councilor. It took him 20 minutes to hang
his engine by doing the following.
Keep the rubber mounts out of the sockets and get all four bolts started.
Then push the top rubber mounts into place and push these bolts through.
Then do the same for the lower mounts. I got all four started with the
rubber mounts out of the sockets and got the rubber mount on one top side in
place. I can not get the bolt to move.
I will hold a engine hanging party this weekend with beer and hotdogs if
that is the offering the engine hanging gods need but if anyone has any
suggestions in the meantime they would be appreciated.
Ross
For archive searching: engine installation, engine hanging, xx@#@##,
installing the engine, hang the engine, hang me
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Alternate air for injected engines? |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
17, 2001) at 03/05/2001 01:11:42 PM
I have not installed an alternate air source in my RV-4 (IO-360 w/Airflow
Performance injection). It doesn't appear that the system Van designed is
appropriate for injected engines. If any portion of the air intake path
were to clog with ice, it seems to me the air filter would be the most
likely. With the standard "flapper door" configuration, the filter is
still in the path of the incoming air regardless of the position of the
door. In my Citabria, the alternate air door by-passed the filter. I am
unsure how to proceed.
For those of you with injected engines, I would appreciate your
suggestions, concerns, and/or perspectives on this issue.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Dean Pichon
RV-4
Arlington, MA
Fairings
**** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one of
Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may contain
confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee
only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not
the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BELTEDAIR(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Lyc engine and parts |
Rvers 0-320-A 1966 new never run but has the 7/16 ex valves narrow deck
and various engine parts cyls, fuel pumps. $9000.00 for engine or best offer
listing for a friend used to work for Lycoming
Contact
Clair Cohick
(702) 648-4613
he's on pacific time.
Jess Meyers
Belted Air Power
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sandra Baggett <accuracy(at)earthlink.net> |
I have for sale the following items.
1. 3 inch prop extension for IO360. for use with James Cowling. Bolts
included. Cost me $400 sell for $235.00
2. New Starter for IO360. Never used $150.00
3. Alternator never used for IO360 (came with engine) $100.00
4. RV6A wing & tail feathers with some fuselage parts & empennage. Wings
are 99% finished. With empennage $5600.00. Without empennage $5000.00
Call Bob at 615-643-1030 or email off list to accuracy(at)earthlink.net.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hanging the Engine |
ROSS
i paid tribute to the engine gods twice. the correct way to install the
engine is as follows.
#1 make sure you have the correct bushings on the right mounting hole.
#2 make sure you have the correct washers in sequence
#3 make sure you have the right length bolt, they are different
#4 facing the prop, mount the top right mount and tighten till it bottoms out.
#5 facing the prop, mount the left top mount and tighten till it bottoms out.
#6 facing the prop, mount the bottom right and tighten almost bottomed out,
but has a little slack to move a little
#7 loosen all bolts a very little to allow for movement
#8 facing the prop, mount the bottom left and tighten all the way
#9 retighten all the bolts, torque and cotter key
good luck
Scott
Tampa
rv6a looking for hanger to mount wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Required test flight hours (25 or 40?) |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
03/05/2001 02:45:53 PM
A friend of mine only had to do 25 hours on a Kitfox with a Suburu & PSRU.
This came from the FAA rep.
Jerry Springer (at)matronics.com on 03/05/2001 12:09:17
PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Required test flight hours (25 or 40?)
RVer273sb(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> Since you do not have a fuel injection system
> that is certified you will have to do the 40 hrs.
> Stewart RV4 Colo.
>
Not necessarily, I think it well depend upon the examiner more than
anything.
A friend of mine here only had to do 25 hours with his Lancair 360 with the
same
setup. The prop/engine combination seems to be the big factor in
determining if
you get 25 or 40 hours. I notice a lot of posts on the list wondering if a
person
has to do 25 or 40 hours. I personally don't see the big deal, when you
first
start flying your RV it well be so much fun that you can do 40 hours in no
time
at all.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Hanging the Engine |
Ross,
I hung my engine the traditional way (engine mount on firewall, hoist
engine to mount, wrestle the engine mounts into submission). The next
engine hung was on a friends RV-8. We attached the engine mount to the
engine, then the engine/engine mount assembly to the firewall. It took less
than an hour to hang the engine. The now moveable engine mount frame is
much easier to wrestle than a suspended engine.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (systems install)
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ross Mickey
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 12:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: Hanging the Engine
Maybe it's because I didn't throw a party but I am one of those who is
having a bear of a time hanging my O360 A1A on my 6A. I spent three hours
wrestling with it yesterday and another 1.5 hour on the internet searching
the archive and web sites. There is nothing anywhere to give me an idea of
what to try next. This is what I have tried.
1. Van's instructions ... put the top two mounts in place and lift the
engine to compress them and then fit the lower two mounts.
I put the two top mounts in place and threaded the bolt with only a couple
of threads. I lifted the engine and the holes line up horizontally but are
shifted right by about .5 inches. I tried lifting one side of the engine in
an effort to twist it...no luck. I have Avery's engine installation
"bullets"...no luck. The angle of the lower bolts is to severe that neither
tapping with a hammer or screwing them does anything.
2. Spoke with the local EAA Tech Councilor. It took him 20 minutes to hang
his engine by doing the following.
Keep the rubber mounts out of the sockets and get all four bolts started.
Then push the top rubber mounts into place and push these bolts through.
Then do the same for the lower mounts. I got all four started with the
rubber mounts out of the sockets and got the rubber mount on one top side in
place. I can not get the bolt to move.
I will hold a engine hanging party this weekend with beer and hotdogs if
that is the offering the engine hanging gods need but if anyone has any
suggestions in the meantime they would be appreciated.
Ross
For archive searching: engine installation, engine hanging, xx@#@##,
installing the engine, hang the engine, hang me
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine hanging |
ross
the reason you tighten all the bolts down as you go is it centers the next
hole.
yes to have to lift, wiggle, twist, grunt, yell and scream until you cry,
then it will go in. if ever you watch the orndolf tapes, you will notice that
the film is cut after he attemps to insert the 1st bolt, when he is done, you
see a set of torches, a crowbar, a sledge hammer etc in the background.
i used a ratchet wrench and screwed while pushing. it wasn't really that bad.
good luck
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hanging the Engine |
It's really a multi-person job but shouldn't be as bad as you describe it.
As a bizarre thought, your comment about the angle being too severe could
apply if you somehow have a Dynafocal 2 mount instead of Dynafocal 1. It's a
real long shot since the D-2 is rare (I think they were on some twins).
Maybe someone knows how to check the angle just in case you got the wrong
mount.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) wiring & systems
>
> Maybe it's because I didn't throw a party but I am one of those who is
> having a bear of a time hanging my O360 A1A on my 6A. I
> spent three hours
> wrestling with it yesterday and another 1.5 hour on the
> internet searching
> the archive and web sites. There is nothing anywhere to give
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Arm Rest Trim |
>> http://bmnellis.com/BuilderIdeas/Images/Quadrant1.jpg
>>
>I hate to tell you this but the long arm well make it more sensitive not
>not less sensitive.
More sensitive in terms of the force required, but less in terms of the
movement. For stong but clumsy guys (like me) this would be better than
a shorter arm. (Van's venier (sp?) is even better for this)
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
RV-8A 80091 Riviting firewall
1/4 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Required test flight hours (25 or 40?) |
Well it isn't really a big deal... But have you tried to stay in that
"confined area" for very long? It is difficult as sweet, fast, smooth, as
these things fly... At least my 4's anyway.
Chuck
Subject: Re: RV-List: Required test flight hours (25 or 40?)
>
>
> A friend of mine only had to do 25 hours on a Kitfox with a Suburu & PSRU.
> This came from the FAA rep.
> > Since you do not have a fuel injection system
> > that is certified you will have to do the 40 hrs.
> > Stewart RV4 Colo.
> >
>
> Not necessarily, I think it well depend upon the examiner more than
> anything.
> A friend of mine here only had to do 25 hours with his Lancair 360 with
the
> same
> setup. The prop/engine combination seems to be the big factor in
> determining if
> you get 25 or 40 hours. I notice a lot of posts on the list wondering if a
> person
> has to do 25 or 40 hours. I personally don't see the big deal, when you
> first
> start flying your RV it well be so much fun that you can do 40 hours in no
> time
> at all.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
>
> Tim wrote:
> > I have Ken's light or medium one (can't remember which). It used to
> > bend all the time when I tried to use it to turn the nose wheel while
> > pushing the plane backwards via the prop hub. The tow bar just
> > wasn't strong enough. I ended up riveting a big piece of aluminum
> > from the "T" handle all the way down to the "U" saddle that clamps
> > the wheel. Ugly, but it works.
>
> I think a 4 inch steel triangle welded across the point where the handle
> attaches to the "U" would really improve the Barto Towbar.
>
> Hal Kempthorne
> RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
I agree, Hal.
I have one of Ken's light tow bars (which I do like), however, it
started to bend where the handle attaches to the "U". I had two triangular
pieces of 4130 plate welded to the "U" and each side of the handle and it
has performed just fine since.
Ed Anderson
RV-6a N494BW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Collins <collins(at)pali.com> |
And she was still instructing until her stroke in January. I know
because I am one of her students.
The San Jose Mercury News has the story at the top of the "B" section.
Here is a link:
http://www0.mercurycenter.com/premium/local/docs/flyer05a.htm
Bob Collins
Sunnyvale CA
Edward Cole wrote:
>
>
> LIsters,
> I don't know how many of you were familiar with Amelia Reid, but she was
> quite a legend in the San Jose, CA area. One of the students she was most
> proud
> of was Shawn D. Tucker.
>
> Amelia recently had a stroke and sadly passed away on March 3rd at 2pm.
>
> The funeral will be at 2 PM on Saturday, March 10th at the Oak Hill
> Cemetery, and there will be a Memorial for her in her hangar on Sunday,
> March 11th.
>
> Ed Cole
> RV6A N2169D Flying
> RV6A N648RV Finishing
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Hanging the Engine |
This was one area of my project where I had LESS trouble than most.
What I did was get 4 long undersized bolts with washers and nuts. Then, I
used the first one of the undersized bolts to locate and begin tightening the
first doughnut, did a second one, then a third one, and finally a fourth one.
The undersized bolts let you deal with the alignment problems, and by
tightening them, you can compress all 4 doughnuts, bringing the whole mess
into rough alignment. Once you've done this, remove one of the undersized
bolts, insert the correct diameter bolt, and tighten. Repeat 3 times.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hanging the Engine |
I had 2 other people helping me, (thanks to Larry Olson and Kevin H.) One
lifted and lowered the hoist, while the other two positioned and put the
bolts in. Took maybe 30 minutes..piece of cake with help.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 10:49 AM
Subject: RV-List: Hanging the Engine
>
> Maybe it's because I didn't throw a party but I am one of those who is
> having a bear of a time hanging my O360 A1A on my 6A. I spent three hours
> wrestling with it yesterday and another 1.5 hour on the internet searching
> the archive and web sites. There is nothing anywhere to give me an idea
of
> what to try next. This is what I have tried.
>
> 1. Van's instructions ... put the top two mounts in place and lift the
> engine to compress them and then fit the lower two mounts.
> I put the two top mounts in place and threaded the bolt with only a couple
> of threads. I lifted the engine and the holes line up horizontally but
are
> shifted right by about .5 inches. I tried lifting one side of the engine
in
> an effort to twist it...no luck. I have Avery's engine installation
> "bullets"...no luck. The angle of the lower bolts is to severe that
neither
> tapping with a hammer or screwing them does anything.
>
> 2. Spoke with the local EAA Tech Councilor. It took him 20 minutes to
hang
> his engine by doing the following.
> Keep the rubber mounts out of the sockets and get all four bolts started.
> Then push the top rubber mounts into place and push these bolts through.
> Then do the same for the lower mounts. I got all four started with the
> rubber mounts out of the sockets and got the rubber mount on one top side
in
> place. I can not get the bolt to move.
>
> I will hold a engine hanging party this weekend with beer and hotdogs if
> that is the offering the engine hanging gods need but if anyone has any
> suggestions in the meantime they would be appreciated.
>
> Ross
>
> For archive searching: engine installation, engine hanging, xx@#@##,
> installing the engine, hang the engine, hang me
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternate air for injected engines? |
This is long, but there is a point.
I had a Cassutt type airplane with and an Ellison TBI. It did not have an
alternate air system. It also did not have an air filter, just a 1/4"
hardware cloth screen to keep out the birds. I did not believe alternate
air was needed because I did not fly IFR, there was no venturi to make ice,
and if there was I could move the throttle and clear the ice. Good to go I
surmised.
I never had any trouble at all, until, I was flying to an airport runway
dedication. I announced on Unicom 5 mi. north. The Mayor was planning to
clip a ribbon with his Gullwing Stinson and it would not start. He asked if
I would cut it. I said I would. I made a low pass to size it up and turned
around. I set up on the ribbon, I could not see it, but I could see the
poles. My plan was to put the ribbon above the spinner, I keyed on the
poles. When I saw the ribbon it was sagging enough to put it below the
spinner. Too late to be fiddling around at the speed I was going.
I blasted through the ribbon at about 240 mph and hauled back on the stick.
Typically this airplane would go nearly straight up to about 2000 ft AGL.
The deacceleration was so strong I felt like I would go through the
windshield. I shoved the nose over, resisted the urge to try to turn back
to the runway. (don't start that thread again!) I landed in a soybean field,
went up on the nose and cartwheeled. I totaled the airplane and my right
knee.
I will admit the airplane was low on fuel and if you read the NTSB report,
it will tell you I unported the fuel tank. Trouble is, the NTSB never
looked at the airplane, and the FAA investigator (who I know) never realized
the airplane had a header tank. I had fuel visible in the main tank so the
header tank had to be full. I was not busted for being low on gas, I was
busted for flying within 500 ft of persons, but thanks to the NASA card, I
took my immunity and that went away too. What I believe happened is that
the ribbon went in the air intake and the airplane went rich and would not
run. More than one witness reported some black smoke puffing from the
engine.
The point is, no matter how much you think that you can get by shortcutting
the standards there is a price to be paid. Alternate air is kinda like dual
mags, I don't see anyone asking the list if they should fly with one mag to
save weight?
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com\dougr
> >
> > For those of you with injected engines, I would appreciate your
> > suggestions, concerns, and/or perspectives on this issue.
> >
> > Thanks in advance for the help.
> >
> > Dean Pichon
> > RV-4
> > Arlington, MA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
Hi,
I would like to begin work on my spinner inside the house (garage is
still really cold). Does it need to be done on the airplane/engine? Is
the scribed line at the base of the spinner accurate for ensuring axial
alignment with the engine/spinner backplate?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
N442E reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spinner Stuff |
Do not, under any circumstances, use the scribed line as a trim line! My
theory is that some clever employee at Van's scribes the line so that you
get to pay Van's $84 to replace the too-short spinner. I happen to have a
brand new spinner for sale if anyone was dumb enough to use the scribed line
as a trim line.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
Date: Monday, March 05, 2001 8:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: Spinner Stuff
>
>Hi,
>I would like to begin work on my spinner inside the house (garage is
>still really cold). Does it need to be done on the airplane/engine? Is
>the scribed line at the base of the spinner accurate for ensuring axial
>alignment with the engine/spinner backplate?
>
>Thanks,
>Glenn Gordon
>N442E reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternate air for injected engines? |
>
>This is long, but there is a point.
>
<--long, but very relevant story about crash due to lack of alternate
air snipped -->
Great post Doug!
Now I suppose we'll get a bunch of "Well, this has never happened to
me, so figure I'm OK without an alternate air door". I can't believe
how many people figure no lesson is worth learning unless it happens
to them.
Most of the "standards" are written in someone's blood.
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "stephen grossman" <flyboy2(at)amexol.net> |
| Subject: | rv6a/9a cad models |
i'm designing a plane at home that will use, with van's permisson, the 6a/9a
canopy, cowling, and other firewall forward parts. i'm designing in
solidworks and am looking for cad models of the above. thanks
steve grossman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TAZKBOYKIN(at)AOL.COM |
PLEASE TAKE ME OFF OF YOUR E-MAIL LIST.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gusndale(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Hanging the Engine |
Ross,
From reading your post, I'm assuming that you have the engine mount
already bolted to the airframe. Most of the people I have talked to
recommend mounting the engine mount to the engine first and then bolting the
mount up to the airframe. I did it that way and found it to work well. You
can lift the engine up just off the floor or a workbench and then slide the
engine mount up into position and put in the top bushings and bolts/nuts
loosely. Then if you brace the engine carefully with wood blocks, etc. you
can lever the mount a bit by hand to get the lower bushings and bolts to fit.
I did it by myself in 20-30 minutes. After that it is a five minute job to
mount or dismount the engine/mount unit to the fuselage.
I think you'll find this method works much better.
Good Luck.
Dale Wotring
Vancouver, WA
RV6A,
Lycoming 0-360A2A
Sensennich Fixed Pitch (84)
working on panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: o-320 ENGINE |
Does anyone on the list have an O-320 engine they want to sell? Runout is
okay. I can overhaul it. I am swamped with mail on the RV list, so I am
removing myself from it, but please contact me direct at: JimRV6A(at)aol.com.
Have cash and need to find an engine. Thanks. Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Fitting axle bearings |
Hello Listers,
Recently I saw a posting asking how to deal with wheel bearings that fitted
too tight.
I finally found the brain cell that held the answer when I tried to fit mine
tonight.
Back in the days when I needed to polish a crankshaft bearing or two but
could not afford to dismantle the engine and have it polished professionally
I used a leather boot strap, some solvent and some different grades of wet
and dry sand paper.
In the case of these RV6 axles first I cut a strip of wet and dry 400 grit
wide enough to cover half the axle length and soaked it with solvent
Then I wrapped the sandpaper around the axel.
I then looped the leather bootlace around the sandpaper about three times.
By pulling the strap tight and alternately pulling the two bootlace ends The
sandpaper will spin quite fast and remove the unwanted material.
When doing this remember to pull from at least four different angles so that
material is removed uniformly.
You will find that you can concentrate on specific areas along the shaft so
try to make or let the sandpaper travel back and forth along the length of
the axle shaft area.
Go carefully it's surprising to see how much material will be removed.
If you want to be fussy about it you can use a micrometer. I just polished
till the bearing was a hand push fit the whole way.
I'm sorry if I'm late for the fellow that posted the original question but
maybe this will be of use to the others coming along.
Flying is fun, Take off eh!.
Jim in Kelowna -Just built and tested RMI's uEncoder and Monitor Great Kits
and easy for a first timer with electronics of any sort.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Required test flight hours (25 or 40?) |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
03/06/2001 08:03:23 AM
Forgot to mention, the guy with the suburu Kitfox got a 150 mile area also.
Pretty giving of the FAA, by the way the inspection was free, fast, and
curtious. He was scheduled to get his inspection three weeks after the
plane was done, but they called that week saying they were in the area and
asked if he wouldn't mind if they did it that day. Kinda makes your head
swim doesn't it. You can bet, I won't be giving $500.00 to any DAR's.
Heres a thought, I have a partner in my RV-6 (new engine, new CS prop = new
partner). He's a high time CFI that specializes in tail wheel checkouts so
of course I want him to do the first flight and transition me into it. Can
we both legally fly off the time on the plane? I seem to remember Van
mentioning several times that some of their fly off periods were done by
the entire staff. Ain't no way I can sit and watch while the ace of the
base flys off my 25 hours.
Eric Henson
"Chuck Rabaut" (at)matronics.com on 03/05/2001 03:59:42
PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Fw: RV-List: Required test flight hours (25 or 40?)
Well it isn't really a big deal... But have you tried to stay in that
"confined area" for very long? It is difficult as sweet, fast, smooth, as
these things fly... At least my 4's anyway.
Chuck
Subject: Re: RV-List: Required test flight hours (25 or 40?)
>
>
> A friend of mine only had to do 25 hours on a Kitfox with a Suburu &
PSRU.
> This came from the FAA rep.
> > Since you do not have a fuel injection system
> > that is certified you will have to do the 40 hrs.
> > Stewart RV4 Colo.
> >
>
> Not necessarily, I think it well depend upon the examiner more than
> anything.
> A friend of mine here only had to do 25 hours with his Lancair 360 with
the
> same
> setup. The prop/engine combination seems to be the big factor in
> determining if
> you get 25 or 40 hours. I notice a lot of posts on the list wondering if
a
> person
> has to do 25 or 40 hours. I personally don't see the big deal, when you
> first
> start flying your RV it well be so much fun that you can do 40 hours in
no
> time
> at all.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spinner Stuff |
I used the scribed line without a problem. You need to have some sort of
straight reference to mount it. You could do your own, but the spinner
needs to be done while on the airplane/engine. You can't really do much
otherwise. You have to align the spinner with the rotation of the engine,
and with the bulkheads tightened down on the prop. I wouldn't do it if you
are not really ready..it's a tough job. Put it off as long as you can,
because there really is not chronological reason to do it until you are
close to being finished.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 7:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: Spinner Stuff
>
> Hi,
> I would like to begin work on my spinner inside the house (garage is
> still really cold). Does it need to be done on the airplane/engine? Is
> the scribed line at the base of the spinner accurate for ensuring axial
> alignment with the engine/spinner backplate?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
> N442E reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Required test flight hours (25 or 40?) |
>A friend of mine only had to do 25 hours on a Kitfox with a Suburu & PSRU.
>This came from the FAA rep.
>I think it well depend upon the examiner more than anything.
Seems to be so. It is a lot like referees in a hockey game: same rules but
they all call it differently.
>I personally don't see the big deal, when you first start flying your RV
>it well be so much fun that you can do 40 hours in no time at all.
Agreed. I found that 40 hours wasn't enough to adequately gather in the
information I needed. The time seems to fly (!) by. And I had fun the whole
time. You need as big an area as you can talk them in to, however.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spinner Stuff |
I'm not sure what you're building, but my scribed line was "right on",
however, on a C/S prop you need to do the fitting, material relief for the
prop, fitting of the filler plates, etc. on the engine/prop. One "in house"
job is to figure out location of the screws for the front plate plus back
plate. A big sheet of paper, ruler, and protractor (dividing measured
angles by # of screws) works great.
Rick Jory RV8A QB
----- Original Message -----
From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 7:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: Spinner Stuff
>
> Hi,
> I would like to begin work on my spinner inside the house (garage is
> still really cold). Does it need to be done on the airplane/engine? Is
> the scribed line at the base of the spinner accurate for ensuring axial
> alignment with the engine/spinner backplate?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
> N442E reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
Glenn,
If only we could. You need to have the prop mounted on the engine, and
be
able to rotate the prop so you don't end up with an off center spinner. The
scribe line is there only to make you wonder why you end up with a final cut
that in no way resembles the scribe line.
If you are using the Sensenich FP prop, I recommend you send the spinner
back to Van's for credit and get the Sensenich spinner. After I spent far
to many hours on my Van's spinner, a was with a local RV-8 builder as he
simply bolted on his new Sensenich spinner. You need to do the final
polishing of these if you want a polished spinner. If not, paint away.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (systems install)
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Glenn & Judi
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 9:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: Spinner Stuff
Hi,
I would like to begin work on my spinner inside the house (garage is
still really cold). Does it need to be done on the airplane/engine? Is
the scribed line at the base of the spinner accurate for ensuring axial
alignment with the engine/spinner backplate?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
N442E reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spinner Stuff |
I used the scribe line on my spinner with no ill effects. I placed the back
plate in the spinner and it fit snug and even with the line so I trimmed to the
line.
Gary Zilik
Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
> Do not, under any circumstances, use the scribed line as a trim line! My
> theory is that some clever employee at Van's scribes the line so that you
> get to pay Van's $84 to replace the too-short spinner. I happen to have a
> brand new spinner for sale if anyone was dumb enough to use the scribed line
> as a trim line.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Schilling" <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Required test flight hours (25 or 40?) |
Anyone who is qualified to fly the airplane can fly off the hours!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Nose Wheel Inflation |
The other day I was visiting with some RV folks and the topic came
around to tire inflation pressures. I stated that I ran all my tires at
45 psi and that I let the mains leak down to about 25 psi before I top
them off again. Russ was agast that I would run my nose wheel at 45 psi
and proceeded to show me his new tire (from Van's) that stated a max
inflation pressure of 22 psi on the side wall. Well this concearned me
and as soon as I got back to my home field I checked my nose tire and
found that it stated a max inflation pressure of 70 psi. Both tires are
Chen Shin (sp) and of the proper size. Russ's tire while looking the
same seemed a little more whimpy than than my 70 psi version. At 22 my
nosewheel would look flat, I mean real flat.
Has anybody else noticed this low inflation pressure tire?
How bout you new finish kit builders. What does your 6A, 8A or 9A Nose
wheel tire state as maximum inflation pressure?
This could be a saftey issue for those installing new nose wheel tires.
I would have inflated it to my normal 45 psi and been running at twice
the max pressure stated on the tire.
--
Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado
RV-6A N99PZ Flying
Engine: Aerosport Power O-360-A1A
Prop: Sensenich 72FM8S9-1-83
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Ray" <str(at)us.ibm.com> |
03/06/2001 08:38:15 AM
Bob
Have you heard what will happen to her business?
>And she was still instructing until her stroke in January. I know
>because I am one of her students.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
Her son Robin Reid is trying to keep it together. He is a pilot with
Northwest
so his time is limited.
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sam Ray [SMTP:str(at)us.ibm.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 7:38 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Amelia Reid
>
>
>
> Bob
> Have you heard what will happen to her business?
>
>
> >And she was still instructing until her stroke in January. I know
> >because I am one of her students.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Inflation |
I think the wrong tire got in there by mistake. I used to have an
ultralight that had a similar nose tire and I think it was only rated around
20-30 lbs. There are similar sized tires that have lower ratings. In fact,
I don't think my nose tire goes to 70, I think it's around 45. It sounds
like he might have received an ultralight type tire by mistake.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
ebundy(at)micron.net
> and proceeded to show me his new tire (from Van's) that stated a max
> inflation pressure of 22 psi on the side wall. Well this concearned me
> and as soon as I got back to my home field I checked my nose tire and
> found that it stated a max inflation pressure of 70 psi. Both tires are
> Chen Shin (sp) and of the proper size. Russ's tire while looking the
> same seemed a little more whimpy than than my 70 psi version. At 22 my
> nosewheel would look flat, I mean real flat.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
"Rv8list(at)Egroups. Com" ,
"Rv-List"
| Subject: | Where to order seats? |
I can't put it off any longer, I need to order the interior for my RV-8A. I
don't want to start a war, I'd just like some observations from those who
had the opportunity to compare the various offerings, balancing quality with
value. I and not interested in a leather interior.
I'm familiar with Cleveland tool interiors, good quality, somewhat pricey.
I'm not familiar with Avery's interiors other than they are somewhat less
expensive. I have not talked with anyone who has done it themselves or used
a local car shop.
Recommendations?
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (systems install)
Vienna, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Required test flight hours (25 or 40?) |
>I have a partner in my RV-6. He's a high time CFI that specializes in tail
>wheel checkouts Can we both legally fly off the time on the plane? Ain't
>no way I can sit and watch while the ace of the base flys off my 25 hours.
You bet!! I would advise to get as much time as you can "flying off" the
time. You are getting to know your airplane, it is getting to know you.
Makes me crazy to hear builders getting someone else to fly off the test
flight time, as if it was a burden. (Yours case is different, though, cuz
it's your partner.) It is a chance for you to explore your airplane as you
may never choose to do again. Perhaps it isn't necessary to "know" your
airplane that well, but it will make you a better pilot.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Bell" <dbell(at)manisteenational.com> |
| Subject: | Thanks on the Ellison Question |
Guys,
Thanks to all who responded on the Ellison. I will probably contact some
of you direct when I have a little time. Your comments have been great to
read.
If any of you need golf advice, don't hesitate to ask or email direct...its
the least I can do.
Doug Bell, PGA
8 qb'er
Manistee, MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spinner Stuff |
> I would like to begin work on my spinner inside the house (garage is
> still really cold). Does it need to be done on the airplane/engine? Is
> the scribed line at the base of the spinner accurate for ensuring axial
> alignment with the engine/spinner backplate?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
> N442E reserved
Fitting any part like this without the parts it will be attached to is
dangerous. And DO NOT rely on their scribe line... it would have been
slightly too short on mine.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, finishing
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Inflation |
| From: | "Denis (Bum) Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 3/6/01 8:06, Gary Zilik at zilik(at)bewellnet.com wrote:
>
> The other day I was visiting with some RV folks and the topic came
> around to tire inflation pressures. I stated that I ran all my tires at
> 45 psi and that I let the mains leak down to about 25 psi before I top
> them off again. Russ was agast that I would run my nose wheel at 45 psi
> and proceeded to show me his new tire (from Van's) that stated a max
> inflation pressure of 22 psi on the side wall. Well this concearned me
> and as soon as I got back to my home field I checked my nose tire and
> found that it stated a max inflation pressure of 70 psi. Both tires are
> Chen Shin (sp) and of the proper size. Russ's tire while looking the
> same seemed a little more whimpy than than my 70 psi version. At 22 my
> nosewheel would look flat, I mean real flat.
>
> Has anybody else noticed this low inflation pressure tire?
>
> How bout you new finish kit builders. What does your 6A, 8A or 9A Nose
> wheel tire state as maximum inflation pressure?
>
> This could be a saftey issue for those installing new nose wheel tires.
> I would have inflated it to my normal 45 psi and been running at twice
> the max pressure stated on the tire.
>
> --
> Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado
> RV-6A N99PZ Flying
> Engine: Aerosport Power O-360-A1A
> Prop: Sensenich 72FM8S9-1-83
>
>
Yoo whooo GAry, this is your conciencious speaking.
I saw some signs of your presence in my hangar during the sabbath, perhaps
due to the extraction of Brad's engine. I also saw you ford there on
saturday but no sign of your self.
Did you get my previous message regarding the need of a president's page and
details of Lothar's directions for a newsletter??? I also spoke to Tom
Redfield and offered him my five pages. he is also apparently avoiding me.
It is a little pst time to go to press for a meeting one week hence.
FYI I just oredered and received a nose wheel tire from Van so we can check
it out. I believe Rus got his (at a discount) from Aircraft Spruce?
Hmmmmmm
I am now on for Sun N fun as my nephew has come through. ;+))
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Where to order seats? |
I went with Becki Orndorff. Real nice lady to deal with. Nice seats too.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Adminstrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
"Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant,
for those who foolishly think that somehow they
can achieve success without paying the price."
-----Original Message-----
From: Carl Froehlich [mailto:carlfro(at)erols.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 9:25 AM
Subject: RV-List: Where to order seats?
I can't put it off any longer, I need to order the interior for my RV-8A. I
don't want to start a war, I'd just like some observations from those who
had the opportunity to compare the various offerings, balancing quality with
value. I and not interested in a leather interior.
I'm familiar with Cleveland tool interiors, good quality, somewhat pricey.
I'm not familiar with Avery's interiors other than they are somewhat less
expensive. I have not talked with anyone who has done it themselves or used
a local car shop.
Recommendations?
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (systems install)
Vienna, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dfmorrow(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Ellison Carburetor and Carburetor heat |
The Ellison people are pretty insistent that an installation of their
carburetor must have provision for carburetor heat. See
http://www.ellison-fluid-systems.com/faqs/carburetor_heat.htm. They say
their carburetor ices up less frequently than other carburetors, but the
difference between "less frequently" and "never" can be fatal.
Dan Morrow
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Where to order seats? |
> I can't put it off any longer, I need to order the interior for my RV-8A.
I
> don't want to start a war, I'd just like some observations from those who
> had the opportunity to compare the various offerings, balancing quality
with
> value. I and not interested in a leather interior.
>
> I'm familiar with Cleveland tool interiors, good quality, somewhat pricey.
> I'm not familiar with Avery's interiors other than they are somewhat less
> expensive. I have not talked with anyone who has done it themselves or
used
> a local car shop.
>
> Recommendations?
>
> Carl Froehlich
> RV-8A (systems install)
> Vienna, VA
Carl,
You will likely get many favorable recommendations for DJ's seats from
Cleaveland. I went this way and am very glad I did. The quality and service
are both first rate. I went with primarily vinyl with fabric inserts
precisely for the reasons Brian Denk points out... you end up stepping on
them.
You can see my seats at...
http://www.rv-8.com/Interior.htm
Note the extra little headrest I put in. Your passengers might appreciate
such a device.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, finishing
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Where to order seats? |
Subject: RV-List: Where to order seats?
> Recommendations?
After looking into Cleveland, Sam Knight and Becky Orndorff, I went with
Becky. It really depends on what you want. Sam Knight uses Oregon Aero's
seats and upholsters these. They are 100% temperfoam and a bit on the heavy
side. Becky's standard seats don't use temperfoam but she will build to
your specifications. I am using 1" pink and 1" blue temperfoam on the
bottom and 1" Sunmate and 1" regular foam on the backs. Becky and I must
have emailed each other 30 times figuring things out. Another difference is
how the stick boot is handled. Becky's seats have a hole cut in them and
the boots are part of the seat. Sam Knight's have a U shape cutout and
incorporates the boots into the floor. All of these folks do fine work. I
would email them all with your specifications and see what prices you get.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Hanging the Engine Summary |
Listers,
Thanks so much for all your suggestions. Below is a compilation of all the
responses for the benefit of the archives.
Ross Mickey
For archive searching: engine installation, engine hanging, xx@#@##,
installing the engine, hang the engine, hang me
*****************************************
Are you ready? I.E. have you installed the oil pressure fitting on the
backside of the engine by the #1 bolt. Is it a 45 degree fitting turned down
and slightly aft so that you can get the oil line on after the engine is
bolted on? Have you done everything that is possible on the back of the
engine and the front of the firewall that you can do without the engine
bolted on? It is only going to get much more difficult once it is in place.
First let's number the bolts. #1 will be the upper left hand hole looking
aft toward the firewall. Number the remainder going clockwise so that #4 is
the bottom left one.
Next lay out the parts so that #'s 1&2 have the short bolts and a single
washer under the bolt head and the pucks as shown on the mount's instruction
sheet. #'s 3&4 have the longer bolts and two washers. Do not mix these up or
you will be unbolting which is also difficult!!
Get a set of the tapered pins (bullet looking). You will only need them
once, but they are worth their price if they are only used once. You can
sell them at a reasonable price to you friends before they try it without
them or an exaggerated price after they have tried it without the little
rascals.
Lift the engine in place. You can use the clevis on top of the engine at the
case bolt split line. DO NOT LIFT THE AIRPLANE AND ENGINE BY THIS CLEVIS!!
Install bolt #1 simply line it up and insert it with all the items on the
bolt as shown in the instructions.
Install bolt #3 by driving the longer Avery bullet in and following it with
the bolt stack. Make sure the extra washer is between the puck and the rear
of the engine's lug. Drive the bolt in and bullet out the front side. Add
nut.
Follow the same procedure for bolt #4.
Now use a tie down strap with a levered tensioner. Wrap it outside the #2
lug and across to the welded intersection on the engine mount that is on top
by bolt one. By tightening the tension, the holes should line up until you
can tap the bolt in.
Tighten the nuts to the recommended level and insert the cotter keys!!
******************************************
What I did was get 4 long undersized bolts with washers and nuts. Then, I
used the first one of the undersized bolts to locate and begin tightening
the
first doughnut, did a second one, then a third one, and finally a fourth
one.
The undersized bolts let you deal with the alignment problems, and by
tightening them; you can compress all 4 doughnuts, bringing the whole mess
into rough alignment. Once you've done this, remove one of the undersized
bolts, insert the correct diameter bolt, and tighten. Repeat 3 times.
*******************************
I had 2 other people helping me, one lifted and lowered the hoist, while
the other two positioned and put the bolts in. Took maybe 30 minutes. Piece
of cake with help.
*******************************
From reading your post, I'm assuming that you have the engine mount
already bolted to the airframe. Most of the people I have talked to
recommend mounting the engine mount to the engine first and then bolting the
mount up to the airframe. I did it that way and found it to work well. You
can lift the engine up just off the floor or a workbench and then slide the
engine mount up into position and put in the top bushings and bolts/nuts
loosely. Then if you brace the engine carefully with wood blocks, etc. you
can lever the mount a bit by hand to get the lower bushings and bolts to
fit.
I did it by myself in 20-30 minutes. After that it is a five minute job to
mount or dismount the engine/mount unit to the fuselage.
I think you'll find this method works much better.
***********************************
I paid tribute to the engine gods twice. the correct way to install the
engine is as follows.
#1 make sure you have the correct bushings on the right mounting hole.
#2 make sure you have the correct washers in sequence
#3 make sure you have the right length bolt, they are different
#4 facing the prop, mount the top right mount and tighten till it bottoms
out.
#5 facing the prop mount the left top mount and tighten till it bottoms out.
#6 facing the prop, mount the bottom right and tighten almost bottomed out,
but has a little slack to move a little
#7 loosen all bolts a very little to allow for movement
#8 facing the prop, mount the bottom left and tighten all the way
#9 retighten all the bolts, torque and cotter key
***********************
Leveled the airframe. Put the engine on a hoist and moved it into position.
I put the upper left bolt in, and screwed the castle nut on just enough to
hold it on the bolt. I then put in the upper right bolt and torqued the nut
down just enough so that the bolt was completely engaged but not enough to
compress the bushings (did this for the other bolt too). I then raised the
hoist to where the wheels where just about to come off the floor. The lower
left bolt required me to rock the engine just a bit but I was able to get it
through the bushings and started in the hole. I had to tap it in with a
hammer. I put the nut on very loose just like the first time. On the last
bolt I first used a drift pin which I tapped in with a hammer, rocked the
engine around a bit raised and then lowered the hoist until the drift pin
looked pretty much centered. I removed the drift pin and then tapped in my
last bolt.
****************************
I hung my engine the traditional way (engine mount on firewall, hoist
engine to mount, wrestle the engine mounts into submission). The next
engine hung was on a friends RV-8. We attached the engine mount to the
engine, then the engine/engine mount assembly to the firewall. It took less
than an hour to hang the engine. The now moveable engine mount frame is
much easier to wrestle than a suspended engine.
****************************************
My 1st assumption is that you have the mount bolted to the firewall and the
fuselage is pretty stable. I will also assume that you do have the right
dynafocal mount for the A1A. Install the top bolts and rubber mounts, as
these are easy. Install nuts on the bolts engaging only 3 or so threads.
Install one of the lower mounts, bolts and washers. Don't forget to install
the thick one that came with the mount between the rubber donut and the
engine. The first 3 are easy, the last one is a little tougher. Install
the last rubber mount and washer between the engine and the mount. The hole
in the engine will be off by quite a ways but you should be able to get a
small diameter pin or something inserted to keep the large thick washer from
falling out. Now, starting with the top mount that is opposite of the last
bottom mount remove the nut, install two AN970-6 washers and tighten the
bolt as tight as you can get it. Do the same for the remaining two mounts
that have bolts installed. The last mount still will not line up, but if
you pry the rubber puck and washer to line up with the hole in the engine
you should now be able to get the bolt, outer puck and crush spacer
installed. On some engines it will just slide in, others need a slight
tapping with a mallet. The small Avery bullet may also help here
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Enhanced Engine Air Flow |
The flow of air through the engine compartment can be enhanced by smoothing
the transition at the bottom of the firewall where the air exits the engine
compartment. The RV-8 (and maybe the 9??) have this built in as a piece of
aluminum in the shape of a half of a cylinder. The air then flows more
smoothly out of the engine compartment.
I have seen similar setups on RV-6's. Pretty easy. I have a 6-A and this
area is complicated by the nose gear. Has anyone made this mod on a 6-A and
if so do you have pictures?
Ross Mickey
N9PT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Inflation |
My Cheng Shin (wheelbarrow?) tire is stamped maximum inflation 70 psi. I
keep it at 30 PSI along with the mains. I note that it leaks down much more
slowly than the mains, possibly because its non-aircraft tube is not natural
rubber.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 48 hours
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 9:51 AM
Subject: RV-List: Nose Wheel Inflation
>
>The other day I was visiting with some RV folks and the topic came
>around to tire inflation pressures. I stated that I ran all my tires at
>45 psi and that I let the mains leak down to about 25 psi before I top
>them off again. Russ was agast that I would run my nose wheel at 45 psi
>and proceeded to show me his new tire (from Van's) that stated a max
>inflation pressure of 22 psi on the side wall. Well this concearned me
>and as soon as I got back to my home field I checked my nose tire and
>found that it stated a max inflation pressure of 70 psi. Both tires are
>Chen Shin (sp) and of the proper size. Russ's tire while looking the
>same seemed a little more whimpy than than my 70 psi version. At 22 my
>nosewheel would look flat, I mean real flat.
>
>Has anybody else noticed this low inflation pressure tire?
>
>How bout you new finish kit builders. What does your 6A, 8A or 9A Nose
>wheel tire state as maximum inflation pressure?
>
>This could be a saftey issue for those installing new nose wheel tires.
>I would have inflated it to my normal 45 psi and been running at twice
>the max pressure stated on the tire.
>
>--
>Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado
>RV-6A N99PZ Flying
>Engine: Aerosport Power O-360-A1A
>Prop: Sensenich 72FM8S9-1-83
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Ayala" <gregory(at)bak.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Where to order seats? |
Carl,
I read all the responses thus far on the subject. It is my professional
opinion that you can get the work done locally to your standards and within
your price range. Most upholstery shops can do the work you want done and
have the experience to do the job right. A local crsftsman gives you the
ability to oversee the work. You can check out their work and references
and choose the one that you are comfortable with.
I am sure that Becky Orndorf and the others all do first class work, as is
evidenced by the examples flying around our skies. I just like the idea of
having more control over the finished product. You may choose the fabrics
of your choice regardless of where or who does the work. The one benefit of
using someone like Becky Orndorf is she already has patterns for the layout
work.
Greg Ayala
A&P, RV6 soon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Required test flight hours (25 or 40?) |
Eric,
There's nothing in the Operating Limitations about how many different pilots
you can use to fly off the test flight period, just a restriction about more
than one person in the aircraft at the same time unless essential to that
flight. Go fly it!!!
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Required test flight hours (25 or 40?)
>Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 07:58:23 -0500 03/06/2001 08:03:23 AM
>
>
>Forgot to mention, the guy with the suburu Kitfox got a 150 mile area also.
>Pretty giving of the FAA, by the way the inspection was free, fast, and
>curtious. He was scheduled to get his inspection three weeks after the
>plane was done, but they called that week saying they were in the area and
>asked if he wouldn't mind if they did it that day. Kinda makes your head
>swim doesn't it. You can bet, I won't be giving $500.00 to any DAR's.
>
>Heres a thought, I have a partner in my RV-6 (new engine, new CS prop = new
>partner). He's a high time CFI that specializes in tail wheel checkouts so
>of course I want him to do the first flight and transition me into it. Can
>we both legally fly off the time on the plane? I seem to remember Van
>mentioning several times that some of their fly off periods were done by
>the entire staff. Ain't no way I can sit and watch while the ace of the
>base flys off my 25 hours.
>
>Eric Henson
>
>
>"Chuck Rabaut" (at)matronics.com on 03/05/2001 03:59:42
>PM
>
>Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>
>To:
>cc:
>Subject: Fw: RV-List: Required test flight hours (25 or 40?)
>
>
>Well it isn't really a big deal... But have you tried to stay in that
>"confined area" for very long? It is difficult as sweet, fast, smooth, as
>these things fly... At least my 4's anyway.
>
> Chuck
>
>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Required test flight hours (25 or 40?)
>
>
> >
> >
> > A friend of mine only had to do 25 hours on a Kitfox with a Suburu &
>PSRU.
> > This came from the FAA rep.
> > > Since you do not have a fuel injection system
> > > that is certified you will have to do the 40 hrs.
> > > Stewart RV4 Colo.
> > >
> >
> > Not necessarily, I think it well depend upon the examiner more than
> > anything.
> > A friend of mine here only had to do 25 hours with his Lancair 360 with
>the
> > same
> > setup. The prop/engine combination seems to be the big factor in
> > determining if
> > you get 25 or 40 hours. I notice a lot of posts on the list wondering if
>a
> > person
> > has to do 25 or 40 hours. I personally don't see the big deal, when you
> > first
> > start flying your RV it well be so much fun that you can do 40 hours in
>no
> > time
> > at all.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Where to order seats? |
Try to get an idea from your seat supplier about the height of the seat. My
seats for the RV-6A leave my head about 1 inch away from the canopy even
with the seat in the full back position. I would have preferred lower
seats. BTW, I'm about 5' 10" tall on a good day.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Prop/Spinner Question |
Hi,
Is there a nominal dimension for the distance between the two spinner
bulkheads so that they both contact the inside of the spinner
simultaneously? I have the regular spinner for a fixed pitch prop.
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
N442E reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Prop/Spinner Question |
4 3/8"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
| Subject: | Old o-320 flange bushings? |
Help, I have an OLD 0-320-nothing, with 3/8 bushings on the prop flange.
Van's catalog says they need to be replaced with 7/16. Where in the heck
can I get them, or do I need to drill and tap them out?
Thanks all,
Dan Ward
81243
finishing kit (about half way)
TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: rv6a/9a cad models |
> i'm designing a plane at home that will use, with van's permisson, the
6a/9a
> canopy, cowling, and other firewall forward parts. i'm designing in
> solidworks and am looking for cad models of the above. thanks
>
> steve grossman
I have a solidworks model of the firewall and a modified engine mount if it
would help.
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: rv-list: paint job - (Painting School) |
Greg,
That would be me,
http://hometown.aol.com/robhickman/index.html
What started out as a good idea quickly turned into the paint job from hell.
On the positive side I moved the airplane back to the airport last weekend
and the wings are back on. With any luck I should be flying this weekend and
I will update the pictures.
The expert painter that I hired and paid, turned out to be a good artist but
not much of a painter. Since he completely quit working on the plane in
December I have had to strip all the control surfaces and repaint them
myself, wet sand the entire plane, and add more base and clear coat.
The plane still needs to be buffed out, but its 70 and sunny in Portland and
I need to go flying.
-Rob Hickman
RV-4 Painted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Old o-320 flange bushings? |
I would suggest that you get the new bushings FIRST. The old bushings have
to be pressed out. You can use a bolt and socket to pull the bushing out.
You should ream out the holes in the flange so that you have a press fit
for the new bushings. Do NOT DRILL. Depending the O.D. of the old bushings
and the desired I.D. of the new hole which should be about 0.001 smaller
than the new bushing O.D. you might have to ream in steps. If you are lucky,
you will be able to buy the final reamer such that you get an interferance
fit. Otherwise, you will get to buy an adjustable reamer for the final fit.
If the crank is out of the engine, I would send it to an aircraft crank
grinding service so that it will be done correctly. They will even cad
plate the new holes so that you don't get any corrosion. They also will
have the correct drive lugs.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "TwoAviators" <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 5:39 PM
Subject: RV-List: Old o-320 flange bushings?
>
> Help, I have an OLD 0-320-nothing, with 3/8 bushings on the prop flange.
> Van's catalog says they need to be replaced with 7/16. Where in the heck
> can I get them, or do I need to drill and tap them out?
>
> Thanks all,
>
> Dan Ward
> 81243
> finishing kit (about half way)
>
> TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Old o-320 flange bushings? |
If you are lucky the holes in the flange can also be used for the new larger
drive lugs. Then all that has to happen is press out the old and press the
lugs with the larger threaded hole.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "TwoAviators" <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 5:39 PM
Subject: RV-List: Old o-320 flange bushings?
>
> Help, I have an OLD 0-320-nothing, with 3/8 bushings on the prop flange.
> Van's catalog says they need to be replaced with 7/16. Where in the heck
> can I get them, or do I need to drill and tap them out?
>
> Thanks all,
>
> Dan Ward
> 81243
> finishing kit (about half way)
>
> TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Old o-320 flange bushings? |
| From: | daviddla(at)juno.com |
Don, do not drill and tap the propeller bushings. The 0-320 engines will
have either 3/8 or 7/16 propeller bushings and you can get propellers for
either of these bushing sizes. If you already have a propeller drilled
for the larger 7/16 bushings , then you will need to replace the
propeller bushings. This is not difficult, but you do have to be careful
to not damage the propeller flange, also the bushings themselves are
expensive. Advise if you need more information, DavidDLA(at)Juno.com
writes:
>
>
> Help, I have an OLD 0-320-nothing, with 3/8 bushings on the prop
> flange.
> Van's catalog says they need to be replaced with 7/16. Where in the
> heck
> can I get them, or do I need to drill and tap them out?
>
> Thanks all,
>
> Dan Ward
> 81243
> finishing kit (about half way)
>
> TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis /Fran Flamini" <flamini2(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Old o-320 flange bushings? |
just curious, does your 0-320 have a finned sump and starter and gen on the
back? Dennis Flamini RV-10, Chicago
----- Original Message -----
From: "TwoAviators" <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 5:39 PM
Subject: RV-List: Old o-320 flange bushings?
>
> Help, I have an OLD 0-320-nothing, with 3/8 bushings on the prop flange.
> Van's catalog says they need to be replaced with 7/16. Where in the heck
> can I get them, or do I need to drill and tap them out?
>
> Thanks all,
>
> Dan Ward
> 81243
> finishing kit (about half way)
>
> TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Ellison Carburetor and Carburetor heat |
I think the reason the TBI needs carb heat and regular fuel injection does
not, is because the fuel is being introduced at the venturi and not
downstream at the cylinder. It's my understanding that carb ice occurs
because of the lowering of temperature due to evaporation when the fuel is
introduced at the venturi.
Dave
Dfmorrow(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> The Ellison people are pretty insistent that an installation of their
> carburetor must have provision for carburetor heat. See
> http://www.ellison-fluid-systems.com/faqs/carburetor_heat.htm. They say
> their carburetor ices up less frequently than other carburetors, but the
> difference between "less frequently" and "never" can be fatal.
>
> Dan Morrow
> RV-8A
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Collins <collins(at)pali.com> |
Her son, Robin, is operating the business. He is also a 747 pilot
for Northwest, but he is getting help from the instructors and
others in the RHV community.
I am still taking lessons there and I hope the business stays
around a good long time. There are not enough places that you
can get primary training in a Citabria.
Bob Collins
Sunnyvale CA
Sam Ray wrote:
>
>
> Bob
> Have you heard what will happen to her business?
>
> >And she was still instructing until her stroke in January. I know
> >because I am one of her students.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Where to order seats? |
> I read all the responses thus far on the subject. It is my professional
> opinion that you can get the work done locally to your standards and
within
> your price range. Most upholstery shops can do the work you want done and
> have the experience to do the job right. A local crsftsman gives you the
> ability to oversee the work. You can check out their work and references
> and choose the one that you are comfortable with.
>
> I am sure that Becky Orndorf and the others all do first class work, as is
> evidenced by the examples flying around our skies. I just like the idea
of
> having more control over the finished product. You may choose the fabrics
> of your choice regardless of where or who does the work. The one benefit
of
> using someone like Becky Orndorf is she already has patterns for the
layout
> work.
For all the reasons stated above, I went with a local aircraft upholsterer.
And although I ended up with a very nice looking and very comfortable
interior, I would not do it the same way again.
First of all, this guy had already done a few RVs so I figured he knew the
ins and outs of RV-ness. Which was true to a point, but not completely.
Right off the bat I told him I was concerned about weight, and he responded
that he didn't know how much it would weigh. I pressed him for a ballpark
and he said "not more than 100 pounds. I figured he was pulling my leg but
realize now he really had no clue. It didn't come anywhere near 100 lbs of
course but it still ended up way heavier than I expected or hoped for. But
the point is he had no concept of the fact that these are really light
airplanes, and extra ounces are more important than in, say, a Cessna.
For the seats, he used 100% conforfoam, and they are REALLY heavy -- nearly
10 lbs a side! He told me he patterned them after Oregon Aero seats, which
may be true, but I believe they've since switched from 100% conforfoam to a
combination conforfoam on top and lighter urethane foam underneath.
He made one seat cushion up and I sat in it to see how the feel was, and was
able to have him adjust it. It was great to be able to do that and have him
custom fit it. At the time I noticed that the stick cutout was too small and
didn't provide for full travel but I ASSUMED he'd cut it out larger since
this was just for trial fit and he'd done RVs before hadn't he? Bad
assumption. He did not cut it out, and once I put the finished seat in the
plane and discovered this, I had to make him go back in and redo that part.
Partly my fault I suppose, but then again, he'd done RVs before, so....?
Didn't help that he was grumpy about having to change it.
When making up the side panels they didn't fit right at first -- he'd used
patterns from the last RV he had done. This was just when trial fitting the
kydek, but even so when he discovered he had to change them he grumbled "why
do you RV builders have to build them all different?" I frankly couldn't
even come up with a response to that one.
He also used 1/16" kydek with fabric over it for the side panels. Still more
weight. .016 AL or just sticking it to the sidewalls will be a lot lighter.
I do have to say that my interior is really nice looking, and the seats are
extremely comfortable. But I sure wish it weighed less, and it was a drag
having to deal with things like stick interference along the way.
I have to admit some fault in all this -- I was frankly a bit burnt out and
wanted to just let someone else take care of that part, so I didn't take
action when the alarm bells started to go off. Perhaps knowing know what I
do now I might be willing to give someone like this a go again, but only if
he was willing to do it MY way.
Or just go with Becky Orndorf or DJ Lauritsen who have been making RV
interiors for a long time, and know all the issues.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: interior cost - was - Where to order seats? |
Folks,
I've been lurking in the background on the interior thread and have a
good idea which way I'm headed. Light and too thick (head/leg room) and
probably Becky. But............inquiring minds (my wife...........the banker
$$$) keeps asking me how much the interior is going to cost. Obviously, it
can range from $10 for a Walmart pillow right on up to the big bucks for the
side panels and carpet. What can I expect for cloth seats/panels and some fur
on the floor (I could get my own Buffalo hide for
free..................hhmmmm you westerners might like that.........nice and
cozy in the winter................I see a business in my future
:
)..........maybe some horns on the front for when I go down to the Texas
border :
)..........)
Thanks in advance.
Rick Gray RV6 QB engine baffles today (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Where to order seats? |
I am in the furniture manufacturing business and this is great advice from
Randall. Although I am building my seats, da ! It is the business I am in .
I went with the Oregon Aero cores simply to have the hard part of sizing, etc
done for me.
I will then have my upholsterers apply the leather .
Go with the experience and quality people that have done many before !!!
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, North Carolina (N901LL res)
Engine Hung - On to Accessories!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)theriver.com> |
| Subject: | Hartzell c/s prop cutout available |
After spending a couple of hours getting my spinner cut out for the Hartzell
constant speed prop, I thought I'd trace the outline and let all of you have
it. This is for Van's 13" fiberglass spinner on the Lyc. O-360 A1A.
Just get the file here, print it, verify the measurement shown, and use
it...
http://personal.riverusers.com/~ludwig/rv-8/prop_cut.htm
Bill in Tucson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Use a thin punch (about 1/16" dia) to drive the steel core out. The rest
drills out easily.
Chris Heitman
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
fuel and brake lines
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----by: old ogre
does anyone have a good method for removing cherry-max rivets?...riveted
before mind was in gear{:~)
RV8A finishing???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
| Subject: | Santa Ynez Airport |
A question for the west coast flyers, particularly the Southern CA flyers.
Has anyone been into Santa Ynez Airport near Solvang, CA. ?
If so, is there ground transportation available?
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Where to order seats? |
--- "Stephen J. Soule" wrote:
>
> Try to get an idea from your seat supplier about the height of the
> seat. My
> seats for the RV-6A leave my head about 1 inch away from the canopy
> even
> with the seat in the full back position. I would have preferred
> lower
> seats. BTW, I'm about 5' 10" tall on a good day.
When you order from Becki, part of the measurements is she gets your
standing height, then has you sit on a hard floor and get the height to
the top of your head.
That tells her the breakdown between your trunk length and the length
of your legs, and (I suppose) she varies the thickness of the seat
accordingly to give some pre-determined clearance to the
standard-height canopy on the particular aircraft you're ordering for,
probably also allowing for the cushion material you've specified.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Panel (and Becki seats in progress - I hope)
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Enhanced Engine Air Flow |
> Hey Ross, I'll try to get a pic from Rich Jankowski, he picked up about
> 8MPH from doing this. This is the biggest speed mod he and tracy saylor
> did. Haven't seen it personally yet.
Thanks, Eric.
That is what I had heard and spurred me on to doing it. I also understand
that they shortened the exhaust pipes so that they are flush or above the
bottom of the fuse. The exhaust then helps propell the cowl air out.
I actually spent last night fabricating three separate pieces to fit around
the bottom of the engine mount and around the gear leg. I am pretty happy
with how it turned out. It took a lot of fitting grinding and starting over
to get it like I wanted it. I am not, however, going to go cutting on my
Vetterman exhausts......yet.
Ross
6-A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Randall achieves fame and good fortune |
| From: | "Denis (Bum) Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
In case the rest of you didn't notice, Randall Henderson of Portland is the
cover person for the SIXTH AND FINAL(LY) ISSUE, 2000 of The RVator. In
fairness to the dummy mine WAS postmarked 1 March, 2001 which he described
as December the 65th.
Great Plane, great pose. Way to go Randall.
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Where to order seats? |
In a message dated 3/6/01 2:14:50 PM Pacific Standard Time, SSoule(at)pfclaw.com
writes:
<< My seats for the RV-6A leave my head about 1 inch away from the canopy >>
Steve: Just curious, but I have read (RVator I think) that this is the
seating position that Van recommends for visibility reasons. What don't you
like about it?
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Required test flight hours (25 or 40?) |
While standing around OSH 5 years ago, with my then
brand-new RV4 a RV6 guy quoted his confined area in TX
was stretched a bit to include the bahamas one day...
I told him I had strayed slightly from FL to OSH on
mine....
Rob
--- Chuck Rabaut wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Chuck Rabaut"
>
>
> Well it isn't really a big deal... But have you
> tried to stay in that
> "confined area" for very long? It is difficult as
> sweet, fast, smooth, as
> these things fly... At least my 4's anyway.
>
> Chuck
>
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Required test flight hours (25
> or 40?)
>
>
> Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
> >
> >
> > A friend of mine only had to do 25 hours on a
> Kitfox with a Suburu & PSRU.
> > This came from the FAA rep.
> > > Since you do not have a fuel injection system
> > > that is certified you will have to do the 40
> hrs.
> > > Stewart RV4 Colo.
> > >
> >
> > Not necessarily, I think it well depend upon the
> examiner more than
> > anything.
> > A friend of mine here only had to do 25 hours with
> his Lancair 360 with
> the
> > same
> > setup. The prop/engine combination seems to be the
> big factor in
> > determining if
> > you get 25 or 40 hours. I notice a lot of posts on
> the list wondering if a
> > person
> > has to do 25 or 40 hours. I personally don't see
> the big deal, when you
> > first
> > start flying your RV it well be so much fun that
> you can do 40 hours in no
> > time
> > at all.
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 3/6/01 4:54:08 PM Pacific Standard Time, lm4(at)juno.com
writes:
<< one control horn appears to be about a half inch in front of the other. >>
This appears to be fairly common, although half an inch does sound like a
lot. Mine were out of line by about 3/16 inch at the tip of the horns (which
I originally assumed on first panicked glance was closer to 3/8 inch). I
stewed over what to do about it for two years. After seriously considering
cutting and rewelding one of the horns, which I think at least one our fellow
listers has done, I finally called Van's and following their advise went
ahead and drilled them according to the plans revision shown in second issue,
2000 RVator (p 17) and moved on. Check with Van's and good luck.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Santa Ynez Airport |
Hi Ed,
I've been into Santa Ynez, but flew in and out. My Flitesoft database
suggests that the airport has taxi and bus service as well as rental cars, but
you should call Santa Ynez Aviation at (805) 688-8390 for details.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Los Angeles
RV-6A N333JA "LOT$A JACK" Flying
"Cole, Ed" wrote:
>
> A question for the west coast flyers, particularly the Southern CA flyers.
> Has anyone been into Santa Ynez Airport near Solvang, CA. ?
> If so, is there ground transportation available?
>
> Ed Cole
> RV6A N2169D Flying
> RV6A N648RV Finishing
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Enhanced Engine Air Flow |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Enhanced Engine Air Flow
Thread-Index: AcCnM3/DJoVsqQs1RE+2+P9ceOFETQAAIRpA
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Free speed, gotta like that. It's like free beer, only better.
Have either of these guys removed the exit fairing to see if it slowed
them down? I know they run the holy-cowls and plenums, is the claimed
speed increase of 8 mph including the cowl mods or did they get the
increase from the exit fairing only?
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
skating out of work early today to go fly.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ross Mickey [mailto:rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 11:57 AM
> To: RV-List; Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Enhanced Engine Air Flow
>
>
>
> > Hey Ross, I'll try to get a pic from Rich Jankowski, he
> picked up about
> > 8MPH from doing this. This is the biggest speed mod he and
> tracy saylor
> > did. Haven't seen it personally yet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Where to order seats? |
(boink)...Probably...(boink)...(boink)...turbulence....(b-b-b-boink) (boink)
(boink)
--
Scott (installing the padded canopy option) VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: HCRV6(at)AOL.COM [mailto:HCRV6(at)AOL.COM]
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 10:02 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Where to order seats?
In a message dated 3/6/01 2:14:50 PM Pacific Standard Time,
SSoule(at)pfclaw.com
writes:
<< My seats for the RV-6A leave my head about 1 inch away
from the canopy >>
Steve: Just curious, but I have read (RVator I think)
that this is the
seating position that Van recommends for visibility reasons.
What don't you
like about it?
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Where to order seats? |
When I wear headphones they rub against the plastic canopy. I hate to see
the canopy get scratched, but I don't see flying without headphones as an
option so I guess I'll have to live with the situation. Or shrink, I guess.
I would have preferred more headroom.
I did send in my standing and seated heights as part of the ordering
process.
If I had to do it over again, I would build my own seats and covered them.
Jon Hovan had a website that included cutting plans for the foam. I would
have made the seat cushion 1.5 inches lower. This project has been an
education and upholstery is a useful skill to have.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
RV-6A rolled out of the shop and into the sunshine on Saturday ... ready to
go the airport, when the airport gets shoveled out
-----Original Message-----
Steve: Just curious, but I have read (RVator I think) that this is the
seating position that Van recommends for visibility reasons. What don't you
like about it?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Enhanced Engine Air Flow |
> Have either of these guys removed the exit fairing to see if it slowed
> them down?
I don't know. I know they tested it the other way...before and after.
>I know they run the holy-cowls and plenums, is the claimed
> speed increase of 8 mph including the cowl mods or did they get the
> increase from the exit fairing only?
My understanding is that the results of adding the plenum was disappointing.
Helping the air get out of the cowl seems to result in a higher payoff for
far less money and time.
I heard (through the grapevine...NO VALIDATION) that some have shortened the
tailpipes so the exhaust will help pull the cowl air out.
The exit fairing seems to be well accepted as seen by its incorporation into
the RV8...( Is it on the 9???) That's why I am adding it to my 6A.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Inflation |
A follow up on the suspect nose wheel tire proved that it was ordered from AS&S
and not Van's. So a word of caution if ordering tires thru AS&S, check to make
sure you get what you ordered. The 22 PSI version aquired from AS&S is not fit
for RV nosewheels
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AV8TURDON(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Enhanced Engine Air Flow |
Ross,
Just happened to see your e-mail and was curious. I'm having a cooling
problem with #3 cylinder and have thought of opening the cowl in the exhaust
pipe area. This fairing may be something I should try. Do you have a site or
drawing available. Would appreciate the help.
Thanks in advance.
Don Champagne
RV-6 O-360 C/S
177hrs N767DC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Enhanced Engine Air Flow |
> Ross,
> Just happened to see your e-mail and was curious. I'm having a
cooling
> problem with #3 cylinder and have thought of opening the cowl in the
exhaust
> pipe area. This fairing may be something I should try. Do you have a site
or
> drawing available. Would appreciate the help.
I just sent this to someone else. Hope it helps.
Ross
++++++++++++++++++++
Here is the theory (as I understand it)
Air does not like to make sharp changes in direction. Sharp changes cause
turbulence that slows down the flow of air. Creating smooth transitions
decrease turbulence and increases flow. A lot of the drag we experience in
RV's is cooling drag. This can be lessened by decreasing the resistance of
air as it move through the cowl.
If you look at the bottom of the firewall where the air from the cowl exits
(a 15" x 3" rectangle formed by the air box scoop) you will notice that the
air goes down the firewall, past the engine/gear leg mount and then makes a
sharp turn towards the rear of the plane. What we want to do here is
decrease the turbulence created by this transition. Thus, the "exit
fairing." On the RV-8, Van has built this into the design. All it is is
one half of a 15" long 1"-1 1/2" diameter cylinder of light sheet metal.
This is placed lengthwise on the firewall so that one edge meets the bottom
of the fuselage. The air now goes down the firewall, hits this bump and
then "flows" around the half circle and exits the cowl. It actually looks
like a speed bump.
On the 6-A, it is a bit more complex. The nose gear gets in the way of
being able to make one piece and fit it in place. I ended up using three
pieces, one in the center and one on each side of the gear weldement. They
wrap around the engine mount. I
spent three hours grinding and fitting until I ended up with something
acceptable. These pieces started as semicircles with a 1/2" tab along one
edge bent at a 90 degree angle. This 1/2" tap will be screwed into the
firewall with nutplates on the inside of the firewall. I will attach
nutplates to the inside of the other edge of the fairing and screw it, up
from the bottom of the fuselage into these nutplates.
Sorry, no pictures.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AV8TURDON(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Enhanced Engine Air Flow |
Ross,
Thanks. I was thinking the other day of trying something just like
that. I hadn't seen Van's idea. Now I will definitely try it to see if it
helps. Glad I saw your post on here. Thanks again. I'll let you know if it
helps. I'm into my annual now so it's a good time to do it.
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV domains available |
Listers,
About a year ago a buddy of mine at work and I discovered that many of the
RV aircraft names were still available as Internet domains. Since he was
considering building a -6A or a -9A, and I was well into construction of my
RV-8, we did what any self respecting Internet opportunists would do, we
reserved them. I proceeded to put my web site at that url and also adopt it
as my personal POP3 e-mail domain. I suppose this is the same mentality as
personalized license plates. Of course only other RV builders would be
impressed with my e-mail address, but it's easy to remember and I also have
other plans for my web site some day such as a formal RV-8 Registry.
Anyway, my friend has since bought a C172 and decided he's not going to
build an RV. Therefore he is willing to sell the domains he reserved. The
following domains are available for sale and transfer at $100 each...
www.rv-6a.com
www.rv6a.com
www.rv-9.com
www.rv-9a.com
www.rv9a.com
If you are reading this message that means you are an RV-person and would
probably appreciate the uniqueness and value of owning one of these domains.
If you're interested just contact Bruce Beauchamp at bruceb528(at)home.com.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Crawford <toys(at)ufl.edu> |
| Subject: | Looking for local builders |
Are there any RV6 or 6A builders on the list that live in the
Gainesville, FL area?
--
Tom Crawford
Gainesville, FL
N262TC
Mailto:toys(at)ufl.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Control Cable Product Comparision |
I purchased Van's control cables for my 6A. A friend is building a 6-A also
and aid he wasn't impressed with Van's throttle cable. I decided to get a
set from Aircraft Spruce. I ordered stock 48" A-1760 cables from them so I
could use Van's brackets. I just got the ACS cables and guess what? Van
gets his from ACS and the two sets are identical except for the following.
Van's are custom lengths
Van's have a rubber coating around the cable
Vans have a shorter throw. The ACS throw is 3 3/8". I didn't measure Vans.
Van's cost $47 for the throttle and $52 for the others...ACS cost $62.
Again.....Van's is the better value.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Enhanced Engine Air Flow |
>
>Ross,
> Just happened to see your e-mail and was curious. I'm having a cooling
>problem with #3 cylinder and have thought of opening the cowl in the exhaust
>pipe area. This fairing may be something I should try. Do you have a site or
>drawing available. Would appreciate the help.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Don Champagne
>RV-6 O-360 C/S
>177hrs N767DC
>
If you want to see what it looks like on the RV-8, go to:
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/fuselage/f10.html
There are a couple of pictures of the cooling exit ramp on the upside
down fuselage near about half-way down the web page. Obviously
things will be more complicated on an RV-6A, but this will at least
give you an idea of what you are trying to build.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TVConrad(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: blind rivets |
Cherry Max rivet removal is a breeze after the lock ring is removed. The
trick is the lock ring. Easiest way is to use a carbide tip, round burr to
grind off the stem & lock ring. After ring is removed, knock out center with
a punch, than drill off the rivet head. Protect the skin by placing furance
tape around the rivet before you start this process.
Tim (buildin' an RV8 in Indiana)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Enhanced Engine Air Flow |
Has anyone done this on an RV-4? I hope that's not a dumb question, I
didn't see this in the plans.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Horton [mailto:khorton(at)cyberus.ca]
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 3:21 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Enhanced Engine Air Flow
>
>Ross,
> Just happened to see your e-mail and was curious.
I'm having a cooling
>problem with #3 cylinder and have thought of opening the
cowl in the exhaust
>pipe area. This fairing may be something I should try. Do
you have a site or
>drawing available. Would appreciate the help.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Don Champagne
>RV-6 O-360 C/S
>177hrs N767DC
>
If you want to see what it looks like on the RV-8, go to:
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/fuselage/f10.html
There are a couple of pictures of the cooling exit ramp on
the upside
down fuselage near about half-way down the web page.
Obviously
things will be more complicated on an RV-6A, but this will
at least
give you an idea of what you are trying to build.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Santa Ynez Airport |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 5:03 PM
Subject: Re: [SoCAL-RVlist] FW: RV-List: Santa Ynez Airport
> It's been some years since I went into IZA (Santa Ynez). We flew in to
hang
> out in Solvang. I think we took a taxi into town. It's about 4 miles. My
> pilot's guide shows Yellow Cab 805 688-0069 and car rental at Sunwest
> Aviation 805 688-2437. Airport office is 805 688-8390.
> Good luck,
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Owens, Laird" <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 10:16 AM
> Subject: [SoCAL-RVlist] FW: RV-List: Santa Ynez Airport
>
>
> > Can anyone help Ed out?
> >
>
> ___
> > From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Wed, Mar 7, 2001 9:38 AM
> > Subject: RV-List: Santa Ynez Airport
> > To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> >
> >
> >
> > A question for the west coast flyers, particularly the Southern CA
flyers.
> > Has anyone been into Santa Ynez Airport near Solvang, CA. ?
> > If so, is there ground transportation available?
> >
> > Ed Cole
> > RV6A N2169D Flying
> > RV6A N648RV Finishing
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > socal-rvlist-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Betty & Pat Murphy <pmurpcomm114(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Gertz elevator trim - RV-8 |
Has anyone installed Gertz electric trim on a RV-8? What did you think
of the installation?
Patrick Murphy
Michigan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | RV-8 LG Box heads up |
I picked the brains of several RV-8 builders prior to building the LG
boxes for my RV-8. They gave me lots of good advice, which I put on
the web at:
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/fuselage/f06.html
I started to permanently install my LG legs this weekend, and
discovered a glitch. I had gotten advice from earlier builders to
swap a rivet location for an AN509 screw location. I did that to
sort out an apparent interference problem, but it has created a bit
of a domino effect. I now discover that the reason Van put that
rivet where he did is that it is next to the nut on the NAS bolts
that attach the U-803s. Now I have an AN509 screw at that location,
and the nut gets in the way. I see four options:
1. insert the NAS bolts the other way, with the nuts on the bottom.
The cover will have to be shortened, as the bolt ends will protrude,
but that area gets covered with a fairing anyway. I'll need to
remove several AN509 screws to get the bolts in, but I can put them
all back afterwards.
2. Put an AN426 5-X rivet in place of the AN509 screw. You lose a
tiny bit of strength, but there are a lot of fasteners in that area,
so I suspect the loss of strength is in the noise.
3. Put a CherryMax rivet in place of the AN509 screw. This has more
strength than option 2, but I'm not sure how big the pulled head is
on the rivet. It might be long enough to still get in the way.
4. Remove the AN509 screws, and replace them after the NAS bolts are
torqued. I'm not yet sure if I could get all the AN509 screws back
in, and they would have to come out every time you retorqued those
bolts. Not fun.
I'm leaning towards option 1. Options 2 or 3 should probably be run
by Van's first.
I updated my Landing Gear Box notes to reflect this latest info.
Lesson of the day - don't assume you are smarter than Van ;-)
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing landing gear)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KingAirPilot1(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/06/01 |
Hi all one seat lovers,
I finally made the decision: the RV-3 is gonna be my plane.
I ordered the preview plans (a bunch of photo copies) and hopefully
will start to order the empenage really soon.
The archive seems to be a great help but it would be even better to
seem some more web-addresses with "build stories".
Hope to see some of you soon on one of the air shows.
/Hans Altena
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derrick W. Vogt" <dvogt(at)kscable.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/06/01 |
I have been watching this RV-3 group for almost a year now with little or no
postings from any active builders.
At one time I was trying to build an RV-3 but health problems diverted me to
being a spectator.
I am located in Wichita, KS. I know of at least one flying RV-3 and there
may be more projects flying around the area. I just don't get out and enjoy
the pleasure of meeting the guys any more.
The one Flying RV-3 that I know of is based at an airport in Newton, KS.
Newton is north of Wichita by forty miles or so.
This RV-3 is constructed from the drawings, that is what as known as a
"Scratch built" RV. The plane has been flown VERY CONSERVATIVELY for over
ten years now. I will need the wing root mods to bring it up to standards
of the current RV-3 specifications.
Keep in touch with the group. This may stimulate interest in RV-3 and
produce some nice discussions.
Derrick W. Vogt, Wichita, KS.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv3-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv3-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
KingAirPilot1(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 10:03 PM
Subject: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/06/01
--> RV3-List message posted by: KingAirPilot1(at)aol.com
Hi all one seat lovers,
I finally made the decision: the RV-3 is gonna be my plane.
I ordered the preview plans (a bunch of photo copies) and hopefully
will start to order the empenage really soon.
The archive seems to be a great help but it would be even better to
seem some more web-addresses with "build stories".
Hope to see some of you soon on one of the air shows.
/Hans Altena
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: RV-8 LG Box heads up |
Kevin:
Can you replace the offending screw with an AN426-5X riven AND drill out the
rivet you had swapped for it and replace it with and AN509 screw? That
should leave you a little stronger than Van intended.
For sure don't do option 4. Once you have the tank vent tubes, wiring and
avionics coax cable running through those LG boxes and have the windshield
and forward fuselage riveted in place you'll not want to do any repetitive
maintenance jobs in that area.
I'd also recommend you talk to Vans: preferably Ken Krueger, whom I've found
to have a solid engineering knowledge of the plane as well as a very
pragmatic approach to problem solving.
There's no problem on this airplane that can't be fixed.
George Kilishek
N888GK (reserved)- endless firewall forward almost ended.
>From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv8list(at)egroups.com
>Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 LG Box heads up
>Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 21:48:31 -0500
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
>
>I picked the brains of several RV-8 builders prior to building the LG
>boxes for my RV-8. They gave me lots of good advice, which I put on
>the web at:
>
>http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/fuselage/f06.html
>
>I started to permanently install my LG legs this weekend, and
>discovered a glitch. I had gotten advice from earlier builders to
>swap a rivet location for an AN509 screw location. I did that to
>sort out an apparent interference problem, but it has created a bit
>of a domino effect. I now discover that the reason Van put that
>rivet where he did is that it is next to the nut on the NAS bolts
>that attach the U-803s. Now I have an AN509 screw at that location,
>and the nut gets in the way. I see four options:
>
>1. insert the NAS bolts the other way, with the nuts on the bottom.
>The cover will have to be shortened, as the bolt ends will protrude,
>but that area gets covered with a fairing anyway. I'll need to
>remove several AN509 screws to get the bolts in, but I can put them
>all back afterwards.
>
>2. Put an AN426 5-X rivet in place of the AN509 screw. You lose a
>tiny bit of strength, but there are a lot of fasteners in that area,
>so I suspect the loss of strength is in the noise.
>
>3. Put a CherryMax rivet in place of the AN509 screw. This has more
>strength than option 2, but I'm not sure how big the pulled head is
>on the rivet. It might be long enough to still get in the way.
>
>4. Remove the AN509 screws, and replace them after the NAS bolts are
>torqued. I'm not yet sure if I could get all the AN509 screws back
>in, and they would have to come out every time you retorqued those
>bolts. Not fun.
>
>I'm leaning towards option 1. Options 2 or 3 should probably be run
>by Van's first.
>
>I updated my Landing Gear Box notes to reflect this latest info.
>
>Lesson of the day - don't assume you are smarter than Van ;-)
>
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing landing gear)
>Ottawa, Canada
>http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Santa Ynez Airport |
In a message dated 3/7/01 8:38:49 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com writes:
<< A question for the west coast flyers, particularly the Southern CA flyers.
Has anyone been into Santa Ynez Airport near Solvang, CA. ?
If so, is there ground transportation available? >>
Ed-
It just so happens that the latest issue (spring 2001) of Pilot Getaways
magazine has the data you requested, including an
article about this airport and the surrounding area. They cover places to
eat, drink, sleep, etc. For transportation they list Solvang Taxi
805-688-5900 and SunWest Aviation rents mid-sized cars 805-688-2437.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Enhanced Engine Air Flow |
> Has anyone done this on an RV-4? I hope that's not a dumb question, I
> didn't see this in the plans.
You won't see it in the plans. Looking over the pictures of the RV-9 on
Vans website, it doesn't look like he has incorporated it there either. I
guess those 8 builders are the only lucky ones.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Hanging the Engine...sucess |
After finishing my exit fairings I decided to try hanging the engine again.
The biggest change in procedure was one that should have been obvious but I
neglected to do the first time..... leveling the plane. This meant that the
main wheel were off the ground of my 6A. With that done and the engine
hanging at the right height, I was able to get it all done in about an hour.
Thanks to all again......I would still be fighting it without you...
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Old o-320 flange bushings? |
I had that on a 0290...I pressed them out, then went to western propeller in
troughtdale ore, and he gave (read sold) me new bushings I needed...I am
told the old 0320's are the same...good luck
RV8A fininshing...I think
do not aechive
TwoAviators wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: TwoAviators
>
> Help, I have an OLD 0-320-nothing, with 3/8 bushings on the prop flange.
> Van's catalog says they need to be replaced with 7/16. Where in the heck
> can I get them, or do I need to drill and tap them out?
>
> Thanks all,
>
> Dan Ward
> 81243
> finishing kit (about half way)
>
> TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
March 10, Abilene TX (ABI) : Flyin breakfast and poker run with lunch to
follow. NW side of airport. Abilene EAA Chapter.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Meacham" <bruce_meacham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/06/01 |
There are two change notices: CN-1 (Wing root modification) and CN-2 (main
spar). CN-2 supplements CN-1, so they are both necessary to fly aerobatics
safely (and to some extent legally) in an RV-3.
There have been enough questions over the years that I think we should scan
them both and submit to Doug Reeves on the RV World Wide Wing. This will
greatly increase access to this critical information.
It's very easy to verify that the RV-3 you bought/fly has the CN-2
modification. You take off either left or right access panel beside the
stick and poke your head down through the whole for the ailerons into the
innards of the wing root area, the lightning wholes in the spar should be
covered over by an aluminum sheet. That's how I did it anyway.
Bruce Meacham
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Derrick W. Vogt" <dvogt(at)kscable.com>
Subject: RE: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/06/01
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 22:20:14 -0600
--> RV3-List message posted by: "Derrick W. Vogt"
I have been watching this RV-3 group for almost a year now with little or no
postings from any active builders.
At one time I was trying to build an RV-3 but health problems diverted me to
being a spectator.
I am located in Wichita, KS. I know of at least one flying RV-3 and there
may be more projects flying around the area. I just don't get out and enjoy
the pleasure of meeting the guys any more.
The one Flying RV-3 that I know of is based at an airport in Newton, KS.
Newton is north of Wichita by forty miles or so.
This RV-3 is constructed from the drawings, that is what as known as a
"Scratch built" RV. The plane has been flown VERY CONSERVATIVELY for over
ten years now. I will need the wing root mods to bring it up to standards
of the current RV-3 specifications.
Keep in touch with the group. This may stimulate interest in RV-3 and
produce some nice discussions.
Derrick W. Vogt, Wichita, KS.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: RV-8 LG Box heads up |
George,
I hadn't thought of that one. The problem would be that the head for
the AN509 screw is bigger than the dimple for the 1/8 rivet. So, I
would have to countersink the dimple, and I might be setting things
up for a crack later on, as I think I would end up with a sharp edge
on the skin. I don't think I'll try this one.
This isn't a real major problem. Just a minor speed bump.
Thanks for the idea though.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing landing gear)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
>Kevin:
>
>Can you replace the offending screw with an AN426-5X riven AND drill out the
>rivet you had swapped for it and replace it with and AN509 screw? That
>should leave you a little stronger than Van intended.
>
>For sure don't do option 4. Once you have the tank vent tubes, wiring and
>avionics coax cable running through those LG boxes and have the windshield
>and forward fuselage riveted in place you'll not want to do any repetitive
>maintenance jobs in that area.
>
>I'd also recommend you talk to Vans: preferably Ken Krueger, whom I've found
>to have a solid engineering knowledge of the plane as well as a very
>pragmatic approach to problem solving.
>
>There's no problem on this airplane that can't be fixed.
>
>George Kilishek
>N888GK (reserved)- endless firewall forward almost ended.
>
>
>>From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
>>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv8list(at)egroups.com
>>Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 LG Box heads up
>>Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 21:48:31 -0500
>>
>>--> RV8-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
>>
>>I picked the brains of several RV-8 builders prior to building the LG
>>boxes for my RV-8. They gave me lots of good advice, which I put on
>>the web at:
>>
>>http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/fuselage/f06.html
>>
>>I started to permanently install my LG legs this weekend, and
>>discovered a glitch. I had gotten advice from earlier builders to
>>swap a rivet location for an AN509 screw location. I did that to
>>sort out an apparent interference problem, but it has created a bit
>>of a domino effect. I now discover that the reason Van put that
>>rivet where he did is that it is next to the nut on the NAS bolts
>>that attach the U-803s. Now I have an AN509 screw at that location,
>>and the nut gets in the way. I see four options:
>>
>>1. insert the NAS bolts the other way, with the nuts on the bottom.
>>The cover will have to be shortened, as the bolt ends will protrude,
>>but that area gets covered with a fairing anyway. I'll need to
>>remove several AN509 screws to get the bolts in, but I can put them
>>all back afterwards.
>>
>>2. Put an AN426 5-X rivet in place of the AN509 screw. You lose a
>>tiny bit of strength, but there are a lot of fasteners in that area,
>>so I suspect the loss of strength is in the noise.
>>
>>3. Put a CherryMax rivet in place of the AN509 screw. This has more
>>strength than option 2, but I'm not sure how big the pulled head is
>>on the rivet. It might be long enough to still get in the way.
>>
>>4. Remove the AN509 screws, and replace them after the NAS bolts are
>>torqued. I'm not yet sure if I could get all the AN509 screws back
>>in, and they would have to come out every time you retorqued those
>>bolts. Not fun.
>>
>>I'm leaning towards option 1. Options 2 or 3 should probably be run
>>by Van's first.
>>
>>I updated my Landing Gear Box notes to reflect this latest info.
>>
>>Lesson of the day - don't assume you are smarter than Van ;-)
>>
>>Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing landing gear)
>>Ottawa, Canada
>>http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
> >
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Hi there,
My overhauled IO-360-A1B6 should arrive later this month, and I am
starting to think about what documentation I should track down to
help me install it, operate it and maintain it.
Looking at Lycoming's list of publications
<http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/serviceltrs/SL114AK.pdf>
I see several that look like they might be useful:
Installation Drawing $35
Operator's Manual $15
Overhaul Manual $55
Parts Catalog $30
Schematic - RSA-5 and RSA-10 Fuel Injector System $5
Index of Service Bulletins, Letters and Instructions $5
Questions:
1. Has anyone used the installation drawing? Is there important info
there that isn't available somewhere else? I'm not sure I want to
spend $35 for it.
2. Is there any point to purchasing an overhaul manual if I won't be
working on the engine internals?
3. I assume the parts catalog would be useful to help identify
external components. Please confirm this is so.
Is there a better place to buy this stuff than Lycoming?
Thanks,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
> March 10, Abilene TX (ABI) : Flyin breakfast and poker run with lunch to
> follow. NW side of airport. Abilene EAA Chapter.
>
Hello Terry,
I wondered where you and the whole Lubbock crowd had been. The poker run
would be pretty early for me but I am thinking about making it for the lunch
(I got Wes's mailing).
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine manuals? |
>
> Hi there,
>
> My overhauled IO-360-A1B6 should arrive later this month, and I am
> starting to think about what documentation I should track down to
> help me install it, operate it and maintain it.
>
> Looking at Lycoming's list of publications
> <http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/serviceltrs/SL114AK.pdf>
>
> I see several that look like they might be useful:
>
Kevin,
You did not mention anything about the operator's manual except the price,
probably because you are familiar with it. I purchased that manual for my
engine and can think of about 20,000 better ways to spend $15. The manual
consists primarily of tiny, poorly reproduced, illegible charts for just
about every 4 cylinder engine Lycoming has ever produced.
The other parts of the manual are vague generalities that any pilot is
familiar with. The Lycoming web site is far more useful.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine manuals? |
Kevin
You can get a copy of you carburator manual online for free at:
http://www.pacpac.com/html/manual.htm
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A fuselage
Boca Raton, Fl.
>
> Hi there,
>
> My overhauled IO-360-A1B6 should arrive later this month, and I am
> starting to think about what documentation I should track down to
> help me install it, operate it and maintain it.
>
> Looking at Lycoming's list of publications
> <http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/serviceltrs/SL114AK.pdf>
>
> I see several that look like they might be useful:
>
> Installation Drawing $35
> Operator's Manual $15
> Overhaul Manual $55
> Parts Catalog $30
> Schematic - RSA-5 and RSA-10 Fuel Injector System $5
> Index of Service Bulletins, Letters and Instructions $5
>
> Questions:
>
> 1. Has anyone used the installation drawing? Is there important info
> there that isn't available somewhere else? I'm not sure I want to
> spend $35 for it.
>
> 2. Is there any point to purchasing an overhaul manual if I won't be
> working on the engine internals?
>
> 3. I assume the parts catalog would be useful to help identify
> external components. Please confirm this is so.
>
> Is there a better place to buy this stuff than Lycoming?
>
> Thanks,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for local builders |
Tom,
Have you looked at the Van's Air Force White Pages? You can view them by
state, city, aircraft type, etc. Happy building!
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/vaf.htm#rvwp
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A Wings
>From: Tom Crawford <toys(at)ufl.edu>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Looking for local builders
>Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 17:49:48 -0500
>
>
>Are there any RV6 or 6A builders on the list that live in the
>Gainesville, FL area?
>
>
>--
>Tom Crawford
>Gainesville, FL
>N262TC
>Mailto:toys(at)ufl.edu
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Enhanced Engine Air Flow |
Good. Because I am infamous at overlooking important details in the plans.
Yes, I *do* know that the wings have to be held on with bolts not tape!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Ross [mailto:rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 10:12 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Enhanced Engine Air Flow
> Has anyone done this on an RV-4? I hope that's not a dumb
question, I
> didn't see this in the plans.
You won't see it in the plans. Looking over the pictures of
the RV-9 on
Vans website, it doesn't look like he has incorporated it
there either. I
guess those 8 builders are the only lucky ones.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | WTB: Prop extension |
Looking to buy the 2.25" x 7" dia. prop extension preferably with crush
plate for wood prop. I'm using an O320 so I need the 7/16" bolt holes in
it. Anyone have one they want to sell?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Old o-320 flange bushings? |
----- Original Message -----
From: "TwoAviators" <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 6:39 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Old o-320 flange bushings?
> --> RV8-List message posted by: TwoAviators
>
> Help, I have an OLD 0-320-nothing, with 3/8 bushings on the prop flange.
> Van's catalog says they need to be replaced with 7/16. Where in the heck
> can I get them, or do I need to drill and tap them out?
>
You only need the 7/16 bushings if you are going to a CS. If that is what
you are
doing, then you will need 3 different bushings. You can get the #s out of
the LYC.
parts book. They are not cheap! NO DRILLING OF OLD BUSHINGS!
the original threads are rolled.Terry B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/06/01 |
Once additional point to note when assessing an RV-3 for purchase or
operation is that there were two types of RV-3 spar construction provided in
Van's kits over the years that RV-3 kits were offered for sale.
The original kits used a number of 1/8" thick by 1 1/4" aluminum bars
laminated or fastened together and to the spar web with 1/8" rivets (Van's
calls these type I spars). Later kits used 3/16" x 1 1/4" bar and 3/16"
rivets (called type II spars by Van's). A glance at the wing center section
(where the steel splice plates are located) should show how many and how
thick the bars in the wing you are looking at are.
The situation is that CN-2 referred to below is ONLY applicable to RV-3 with
type II spars. Implementation of CN-2 will apparently (and Van's has done
extensive testing to confirm this) increase the strength of type II spars to
the point such that aerobatic category load limits apply to that aircraft.
(Note that the aircraft weight must remain below 1050 lbs. for this to
apply; heavier RV-3s simply do not qualify.)
Those of us with type I spars are simply out of luck as Van's feels there is
no practical way to increase the strength of these spars to meet aerobatic
category specs. This is regardless of whether CN-1 (the root rib and aft
spar modification) has been implemented or not.
The best idea is to obtain copies of Van's correspondence and service
bulletins regarding the RV-3 wing strength issue. Note that CN-1 goes back
to 1982. The spar strength issue was discussed in Vans Aircraft letters
dated 13 Nov 1995, 25 Mar 1996, and 22 Aug 1996. CN-2 was announced in a
letter dated 8 Oct 1996.
I fly an RV-3 with type I spars and CN-1 modifications added during the
latter stages of construction. I simply choose to restrict my flying to low
G maneuvers only and accept that I have a great little standard category
aircraft to fly. The Canadian regs also do not allow aerobatics to be flown
in an RV-3 regardless of the spar modification status.
Finally, I am impressed and personally very grateful that Vans Aircraft is
still paying attention to and supporting kit purchasers from 20 years or
more ago. That's one reason I am now building an RV-6A to teach my kids to
fly on. Glasair builders should be so lucky!
Jim Oke
RV-3, C-FIZM
Winnipeg Canada
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Meacham" <bruce_meacham(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 3:30 AM
Subject: RE: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/06/01
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Bruce Meacham"
>
> There are two change notices: CN-1 (Wing root modification) and CN-2 (main
> spar). CN-2 supplements CN-1, so they are both necessary to fly
aerobatics
> safely (and to some extent legally) in an RV-3.
>
> There have been enough questions over the years that I think we should
scan
> them both and submit to Doug Reeves on the RV World Wide Wing. This will
> greatly increase access to this critical information.
>
> It's very easy to verify that the RV-3 you bought/fly has the CN-2
> modification. You take off either left or right access panel beside the
> stick and poke your head down through the whole for the ailerons into the
> innards of the wing root area, the lightning wholes in the spar should be
> covered over by an aluminum sheet. That's how I did it anyway.
>
> Bruce Meacham
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: "Derrick W. Vogt" <dvogt(at)kscable.com>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/06/01
> Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 22:20:14 -0600
>
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Derrick W. Vogt"
>
> I have been watching this RV-3 group for almost a year now with little or
no
> postings from any active builders.
>
> At one time I was trying to build an RV-3 but health problems diverted me
to
> being a spectator.
>
> I am located in Wichita, KS. I know of at least one flying RV-3 and there
> may be more projects flying around the area. I just don't get out and
enjoy
> the pleasure of meeting the guys any more.
>
> The one Flying RV-3 that I know of is based at an airport in Newton, KS.
> Newton is north of Wichita by forty miles or so.
>
> This RV-3 is constructed from the drawings, that is what as known as a
> "Scratch built" RV. The plane has been flown VERY CONSERVATIVELY for over
> ten years now. I will need the wing root mods to bring it up to standards
> of the current RV-3 specifications.
>
> Keep in touch with the group. This may stimulate interest in RV-3 and
> produce some nice discussions.
>
> Derrick W. Vogt, Wichita, KS.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
| Subject: | Santa Ynez Airport |
I knew I should have tried you first! Thanks for the input.
Ed Cole
Maxim Integrated Products
Bldg. 120 Ext. 6605
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM [SMTP:Vanremog(at)AOL.COM]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 9:21 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Santa Ynez Airport
>
>
> In a message dated 3/7/01 8:38:49 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com writes:
>
> << A question for the west coast flyers, particularly the Southern CA
> flyers.
> Has anyone been into Santa Ynez Airport near Solvang, CA. ?
> If so, is there ground transportation available? >>
>
> Ed-
>
> It just so happens that the latest issue (spring 2001) of Pilot Getaways
> magazine has the data you requested, including an
> article about this airport and the surrounding area. They cover places to
>
> eat, drink, sleep, etc. For transportation they list Solvang Taxi
> 805-688-5900 and SunWest Aviation rents mid-sized cars 805-688-2437.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: static ports |
Thanks for the reply Kevin. My interest in the fuse static port is so I can
test the accuracy of the built in static port on the pitot tube.
Thanks again,
Mike Nellis
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
RV-6 N699BM (res) Gooping up the tanks
Plainfield, IL (LOT)
http://bmnellis.com
>
> Mike,
>
> I think the concept is good, but you'll find that every plane will
> need a slightly different rivet height to give the smallest error.
> Simplest way to accuracy might be to start out with a fairly big
> rivet (3/16 is probably a good bet) and do the flight testing to
> check the error. Use a small scotchbrite wheel to flatten the head
> incrementally until you get the error near zero at what ever speed
> you are most interested in. You'd probably want to disconnect the
> static lines before polishing the rivet down to keep from getting
> crud in the system.
>
> You ask a question about the hole size in the rivet. I'd just take a
> look at a light aircraft with aft fuselage static ports to see what
> size they use. 1/16 sounds like a winner to me.
>
> Take care,
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
> >
> >Vince and any others that are out there. I thought of this same thing a
> >month or so ago and whipped one up on my little jewelers lathe. I didn't
> >know how I was going to secure it in the fuselage (was thinking about
using
> >proseal)but using the lock washer that came in the kit is the obvious
> >choice. Thanks for that tip Vince.
> >
> >Since I'm a long way from flying still, I'd be glad to send one to
someone
> >with a flying RV if they want to try it out and check out the accuracy.
If
> >it works I'd be glad to make up a small batch run for those interested a
> >couple bucks + shipping or something. You can see a picture of it here
> >http://www.bmnellis.com/BuilderIdeas.htm at the bottom of the page.
> >
> >Mike Nellis
> >Stinson 108-2 N9666K
> >RV-6 N699BM (res) Gooping up the tanks
> >Plainfield, IL (LOT)
> >http://bmnellis.com
> >
> >>
> >> I plan to install a 3/4 inch long 3/16" dome head rivet using the nice
> >> little star washers that held them to my wing spar during shipping.
That
> >> way no bucking is required.
> >>
> >> First I plan to chuck up the rivet in my drill press and use my dremel
> >tool
> >> (sort of a poor man's milling machine) to cut a few small grooves in
the
> >> shank to give the hose a place to bite (i.e. make my own hose barbs).
> >Next
> >> drill a small hole through the center, install in the fuselage, and
> >connect
> >> your choice of hose.
> >>
> >> It certainly should be more secure than the pop rivet and glue that
held
> >the
> >> hose on my RV-4's static system and hopefully will have similar
accuracy
> >to
> >> the ugly pop rivet.
> >>
> > > Vince in Indiana
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Stewart <bruces(at)shoalhaven.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/06/01 |
Hi Jim,
wouldn't there actually be 3 Spar types with the new RV3B wings
offered by Van's? the pre view set I have shows drwg dates around
1998/ 1999.
I've had a close look at the RV 8 wings and the RV 3B designs looks
"very" close.
I guess what I'm trying to say is maybe the latest design is the
better fix for them all, I gather there would be a hell of a lot of work
in adapting the "new" wings and spar etc to an 20 year old airframe.
Bruce
>--> RV3-List message posted by: "Jim Oke"
>
>Once additional point to note when assessing an RV-3 for purchase or
>operation is that there were two types of RV-3 spar construction provided in
>Van's kits over the years that RV-3 kits were offered for sale.
>
>The original kits used a number of 1/8" thick by 1 1/4" aluminum bars
>laminated or fastened together and to the spar web with 1/8" rivets (Van's
>calls these type I spars). Later kits used 3/16" x 1 1/4" bar and 3/16"
>rivets (called type II spars by Van's). A glance at the wing center section
>(where the steel splice plates are located) should show how many and how
>thick the bars in the wing you are looking at are.
>
>The situation is that CN-2 referred to below is ONLY applicable to RV-3 with
>type II spars. Implementation of CN-2 will apparently (and Van's has done
>extensive testing to confirm this) increase the strength of type II spars to
>the point such that aerobatic category load limits apply to that aircraft.
>(Note that the aircraft weight must remain below 1050 lbs. for this to
>apply; heavier RV-3s simply do not qualify.)
>
>Those of us with type I spars are simply out of luck as Van's feels there is
>no practical way to increase the strength of these spars to meet aerobatic
>category specs. This is regardless of whether CN-1 (the root rib and aft
>spar modification) has been implemented or not.
>
>The best idea is to obtain copies of Van's correspondence and service
>bulletins regarding the RV-3 wing strength issue. Note that CN-1 goes back
>to 1982. The spar strength issue was discussed in Vans Aircraft letters
>dated 13 Nov 1995, 25 Mar 1996, and 22 Aug 1996. CN-2 was announced in a
>letter dated 8 Oct 1996.
>
>I fly an RV-3 with type I spars and CN-1 modifications added during the
>latter stages of construction. I simply choose to restrict my flying to low
>G maneuvers only and accept that I have a great little standard category
>aircraft to fly. The Canadian regs also do not allow aerobatics to be flown
>in an RV-3 regardless of the spar modification status.
>
>Finally, I am impressed and personally very grateful that Vans Aircraft is
>still paying attention to and supporting kit purchasers from 20 years or
>more ago. That's one reason I am now building an RV-6A to teach my kids to
>fly on. Glasair builders should be so lucky!
>
>Jim Oke
>RV-3, C-FIZM
>Winnipeg Canada
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Old o-320 flange bushings? |
How do you "roll" internal threads? Specially ones less than 1/2"??? -Old
engineer wants to know!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 8:43 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: Old o-320 flange bushings?
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "TwoAviators" <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 6:39 PM
> Subject: RV8-List: Old o-320 flange bushings?
>
>
> > --> RV8-List message posted by: TwoAviators
> >
> > Help, I have an OLD 0-320-nothing, with 3/8 bushings on the prop flange.
> > Van's catalog says they need to be replaced with 7/16. Where in the heck
> > can I get them, or do I need to drill and tap them out?
> >
> You only need the 7/16 bushings if you are going to a CS. If that is what
> you are
> doing, then you will need 3 different bushings. You can get the #s out of
> the LYC.
> parts book. They are not cheap! NO DRILLING OF OLD BUSHINGS!
> the original threads are rolled.Terry B.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: static ports |
Are, when installing the Heated Pitot tube you need to consider
serviceability. I installed it on bay outboard of the inspection plate. I
can reach through the inspection plate and through the rib holes to get to
the fittings and wire connector. The other consideration that has to be
made is for the tie down rings. You need to mount the tube so that the tie
down ropes will not interfere with the pitot tube.
>
> Thanks for the info Mike. It looks encouraging.
> Where did you install it? Is it aft of the main spar in the first bay
> outboard from the aileron belcrank?
>
> Are
> RV-8 Fuel Tanks
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Robertson [mailto:mrobert569(at)hotmail.com]
> Sent: March 1, 2001 1:48 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: static ports
>
>
> We installed a heated pitot-static tube in our full IFR RV-8a. Although
we
> didn't get it from Warren it is the same one. After 30 hours of testing
and
>
> a proficiency race we have found it to be very accurate.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A N809RS
>
>
> >From: Ewinne(at)AOL.COM
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: static ports
> >Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 05:36:18 EST
> >
> >
> >Here's a question for everyone debating which static port to use-
Wouldn't
> >the most elegant solution (especially for those building IFR birds) be to
> >install Warren Gretz's heated pitot/static system? That way, there is no
> >"extra" plumbing to do, no worry about flush or domed ports, and the
heated
> >system means no problems with accidental ice.
> >
> >Has anyone installed and used one of these, and how well do they do the
> >job?
> >I'm about to open my wing crates, so I guess it's time for me to think
> >about
> >this stuff!
> >
> >Ed Winne
> >RV-9A Wings (almost)
> >Palmyra PA
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Meacham" <bruce_meacham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/06/01 |
I'm under the impression that building and attaching new wet wings was a
significant but straight forward task. The mounts hadn't changed. Can
anyone proove me wrong?
Bruce Meacham
----Original Message Follows----
From: Bruce Stewart <bruces(at)shoalhaven.net.au>
Subject: Re: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/06/01
Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2001 07:32:42 +1100
--> RV3-List message posted by: Bruce Stewart
Hi Jim,
wouldn't there actually be 3 Spar types with the new RV3B wings
offered by Van's? the pre view set I have shows drwg dates around
1998/ 1999.
I've had a close look at the RV 8 wings and the RV 3B designs looks
"very" close.
I guess what I'm trying to say is maybe the latest design is the
better fix for them all, I gather there would be a hell of a lot of work
in adapting the "new" wings and spar etc to an 20 year old airframe.
Bruce
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Old o-320 flange bushings? |
Cy,
We roll internal threads with our Browne & Sharpe's almost daily. We roll
1/4 32 and 5/16 32 threads using a thread rolling tap. The internal
dimension of the pre-threaded hole is different than on a thread cutting tap
as the rolling tap actually displces some of the metal from the valleys
(minor) to the ridges (major) The tap itself is not like a cutting tap in
that it doesn't have a fluted leading edge. It looks like a tapered bolt
with waves in the threads--almost as if you placed the threads in a 3 jaw
chuck and squeezed it without damaging the threads.
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Cy Galley
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 12:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: Old o-320 flange bushings?
How do you "roll" internal threads? Specially ones less than 1/2"??? -Old
engineer wants to know!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 8:43 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: Old o-320 flange bushings?
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "TwoAviators" <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 6:39 PM
> Subject: RV8-List: Old o-320 flange bushings?
>
>
> > --> RV8-List message posted by: TwoAviators
> >
> > Help, I have an OLD 0-320-nothing, with 3/8 bushings on the prop flange.
> > Van's catalog says they need to be replaced with 7/16. Where in the heck
> > can I get them, or do I need to drill and tap them out?
> >
> You only need the 7/16 bushings if you are going to a CS. If that is what
> you are
> doing, then you will need 3 different bushings. You can get the #s out of
> the LYC.
> parts book. They are not cheap! NO DRILLING OF OLD BUSHINGS!
> the original threads are rolled.Terry B.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: static ports |
Mike,
The best way to test the accuracy of that static source is to use the
"speed course" method I describe at:
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks/ssec.html
It is important to follow all the steps (calibrate the ASI, good leak
checks of pitot and static systems, etc). The ASI calibration is
particularly important, but often overlooked. For example, if you
find a 5 kt error, you don't know whether you've got a 5 kt error in
the ASI and a perfectly accurate static source, or a perfectly
accurate ASI and an error in the static source. It is important to
know the error in the static source if you fly IFR, because any error
in the static source affects your altimeter too.
The fact that each aircraft is different means you can't count on
Van's static source being accurate unless you actually verify it on
your aircraft.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing landing gear)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
>Thanks for the reply Kevin. My interest in the fuse static port is so I can
>test the accuracy of the built in static port on the pitot tube.
>
>Thanks again,
>
>Mike Nellis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Old o-320 flange bushings? |
Terry B
I am using a Dermuth wood prop, and they can make my hole pattern anything
I need. Tell me how it will not effect the crush plate and the 2 1/2inch
prop extention. I need to let the prop people know. It would be great if I
didn't have to change it.
Thanks,
Dan W
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "Terry Burch"
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "TwoAviators" <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
>To:
>Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 6:39 PM
>Subject: RV8-List: Old o-320 flange bushings?
>
>
>> --> RV8-List message posted by: TwoAviators
>>
>> Help, I have an OLD 0-320-nothing, with 3/8 bushings on the prop flange.
>> Van's catalog says they need to be replaced with 7/16. Where in the heck
>> can I get them, or do I need to drill and tap them out?
>>
>You only need the 7/16 bushings if you are going to a CS. If that is what
>you are
>doing, then you will need 3 different bushings. You can get the #s out of
>the LYC.
>parts book. They are not cheap! NO DRILLING OF OLD BUSHINGS!
>the original threads are rolled.Terry B.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: RV-8 LG Box heads up |
> >>
>>>I picked the brains of several RV-8 builders prior to building the LG
>>>boxes for my RV-8. They gave me lots of good advice, which I put on
>>>the web at:
>>>
>>>http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/fuselage/f06.html
>>>
>>>I started to permanently install my LG legs this weekend, and
>>>discovered a glitch. I had gotten advice from earlier builders to
>>>swap a rivet location for an AN509 screw location. I did that to
>>>sort out an apparent interference problem, but it has created a bit
>>>of a domino effect. I now discover that the reason Van put that
>>>rivet where he did is that it is next to the nut on the NAS bolts
>>>that attach the U-803s. Now I have an AN509 screw at that location,
>>>and the nut gets in the way. I see four options:
>>>
>>>1. insert the NAS bolts the other way, with the nuts on the bottom.
>>>The cover will have to be shortened, as the bolt ends will protrude,
>>>but that area gets covered with a fairing anyway. I'll need to
>>>remove several AN509 screws to get the bolts in, but I can put them
>>>all back afterwards.
>>>
>>>2. Put an AN426 5-X rivet in place of the AN509 screw. You lose a
>>>tiny bit of strength, but there are a lot of fasteners in that area,
>>>so I suspect the loss of strength is in the noise.
>>>
>>>3. Put a CherryMax rivet in place of the AN509 screw. This has more
>>>strength than option 2, but I'm not sure how big the pulled head is
>>>on the rivet. It might be long enough to still get in the way.
>>>
>>>4. Remove the AN509 screws, and replace them after the NAS bolts are
>>>torqued. I'm not yet sure if I could get all the AN509 screws back
>>>in, and they would have to come out every time you retorqued those
>>>bolts. Not fun.
>>>
>>>I'm leaning towards option 1. Options 2 or 3 should probably be run
>>>by Van's first.
>>>
>>>I updated my Landing Gear Box notes to reflect this latest info.
>>>
>>>Lesson of the day - don't assume you are smarter than Van ;-)
>>>
>>>Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing landing gear)
>>>Ottawa, Canada
>>>http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>> >
> >>
>
Update - I went with option 1 (reverse the bolts that attach the
U-803). Tonight I got all the bolts in the holes. I had to lightly
tap a couple of the NAS bolts, using a long piece of wood. I didn't
get all the nuts torqued, as my back started to complain about
working above my head. But, I'm definitely over the hump. I'll
finish this off on Saturday.
I'll probably need shorter AN509s and the thinner AN 364 nuts for a
couple of those holes.
Thanks for the comments from other builders.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing landing gear)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <edwardmcole(at)home.com> |
For Manuals,
Try our own Andy Gold..Builder's Bookstore
Sacramento Skyranch
Chief Aircraft
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 4:35 AM
Subject: RV-List: Engine manuals?
Hi there,
My overhauled IO-360-A1B6 should arrive later this month, and I am
starting to think about what documentation I should track down to
help me install it, operate it and maintain it.
Looking at Lycoming's list of publications
<http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/serviceltrs/SL114AK.pdf>
I see several that look like they might be useful:
Installation Drawing $35
Operator's Manual $15
Overhaul Manual $55
Parts Catalog $30
Schematic - RSA-5 and RSA-10 Fuel Injector System $5
Index of Service Bulletins, Letters and Instructions $5
Questions:
1. Has anyone used the installation drawing? Is there important info
there that isn't available somewhere else? I'm not sure I want to
spend $35 for it.
2. Is there any point to purchasing an overhaul manual if I won't be
working on the engine internals?
3. I assume the parts catalog would be useful to help identify
external components. Please confirm this is so.
Is there a better place to buy this stuff than Lycoming?
Thanks,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ciolino <jbc1(at)pop.snet.net> |
| Subject: | Bevel main skins |
Listers,
I dimpled the outboard top wing skin before I remembered that you have to
bevel the forward edge where the two main skins overlap.
Can I :
File the corner with the dimples in place?
Flatten the dimples (there are only 2 in the "triangle") and re-dimple
after I file?
Or did I miss the opportunity for a Oshkosh Grand Champion?
TIA for your advise.
John Ciolino
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Svajda" <dsvajda(at)home.com> |
I'm a long way from having to move out of the garage, but I took a tour
of area airports today to get on their hangar waiting lists. Looks like
average wait in the K.C. area is 3 years. Any listers have any clever
ways to arrange hangar space besides signup, wait, pray?
Dave Svajda
6A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: WTB: Prop extension |
Sabre Mfg. 817 326-6293 ask for sam tillman, he
makes the best extensions made. I just got his 4x7 and it's pure artwork. I
like you am using a catto prop and craig recommends him.
mike rv-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Old o-320 flange bushings? |
The closest thing to a "rolled" internal thread is one formed with a forming tap
which displaces
material as opposed to using a "cutting" tap which actually removes material to
create the thread.
(this is a very common method of creating threads where great strength is required.)
see item 5 in
list of taps at the following site. http://asher.hypermart.net/Default.htm
Also see the explanation at this site, particularly paragraph 2.
http://www.baldwinfilters.com/engineering/tsb_94-3r.html
At this site you can see that threads as small as #4 can be formed without material
removal. (during
threading or drilling)
http://www.flowdrill.com/manual.htm
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net> |
| Subject: | Landing gear box |
Kevin,
I vote for option 2. with option 1 you may find that you have to make
the intersection fairings deeper than you want to because of the nuts
and threads on the bolt hanging down too far.
While you are at it, do yourself a big favor and tie those two nuts
together so they can be torqued periodically without having to get a
wrench on them, something thats very difficult to do once all of the
tubing, wires, and cables are in there. It's difficult enough without
all that stuff in there. I used a piece of .063 shaped,for lack of a
better word, like a dog bone. It takes a little bit of time to file
those hex holes in each end but the contemplation is worse than the
doing. As I recall, the center connecting part had to be offset
slightly. The dogbone should be epoxied to the nuts with them snugged up
in position and should be up near the top of the flats. You will be
very glad that you did this.
Regards, Bill RV-8 N48WD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Bevel main skins |
John, here is what I did and it came out great! Go ahead and cut a square
piece from the skin that is being overlapped-in my case it is the inboard
skin that I had to cut (1.25 inch from the top and 1.5 inches over. I just
went out there and measured for you. Try it on the bottom of the wing
first-if you do it correctly you will like mucho. I read in the archives that
Bill Bendict recommended this. The heck with the filing and the dims should
not matter.BTW, some guys don't even bother with this. I am a couple of weeks
ahead of you so this is still fresh in my mind. Contact me off list if I can
be of more help. Bob in Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
Probably a lot of you already know about this web site but for those that don't
here it is. Lot of useful stuff here.
http://registry.faa.gov
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Pilla" <mpilla(at)maine.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hangar Space |
Try sharing a hangar. I had my RV-4 project in a hangar with a
high-winged bird. We fit rather nice, together and one-half the rent.
Michael Pilla
----- Original Message -----
From: David Svajda <dsvajda(at)home.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 9:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: Hangar Space
>
> I'm a long way from having to move out of the garage, but I took a
tour
> of area airports today to get on their hangar waiting lists. Looks
like
> average wait in the K.C. area is 3 years. Any listers have any clever
> ways to arrange hangar space besides signup, wait, pray?
>
> Dave Svajda
> 6A Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Old o-320 flange bushings? |
In a message dated 3/8/01 2:01:07 PM Pacific Standard Time,
gtanner(at)bendcable.com writes:
<< We roll internal threads with our Browne & Sharpe's almost daily. We roll
1/4 32 and 5/16 32 threads using a thread rolling tap. The internal
dimension of the pre-threaded hole is different from on a thread cutting tap
as the rolling tap actually displaces some of the metal from the valleys
(minor) to the ridges (major) The tap itself is not like a cutting tap in
that it doesn't have a fluted leading edge. It looks like a tapered bolt
with waves in the threads--almost as if you placed the threads in a 3 jaw
chuck and squeezed it without damaging the threads. >>
I've heard these referred to as "Express" taps. I've seen them often used
for tapping aluminum STI for threaded inserts (helicoils) where they cold
flow material and make a nicer work hardened thread in soft materials that is
less prone to stripping.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
Find someone to share a hanger with. The RV is small enough to fit with
many GA planes.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (systems install)
Vienna, VA (where someone has to die before a hanger becomes available)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Svajda
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 9:14 PM
Subject: RV-List: Hangar Space
I'm a long way from having to move out of the garage, but I took a tour
of area airports today to get on their hangar waiting lists. Looks like
average wait in the K.C. area is 3 years. Any listers have any clever
ways to arrange hangar space besides signup, wait, pray?
Dave Svajda
6A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Hangar Space |
Another way is to BUY a hangared plane to fly while you are building, then
sell when you are ready to assemble so you have the hangar to work in. This
only works if you keep the hangar that the plane is presently hangared.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Pilla" <mpilla(at)maine.rr.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 9:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hangar Space
>
> Try sharing a hangar. I had my RV-4 project in a hangar with a
> high-winged bird. We fit rather nice, together and one-half the rent.
>
> Michael Pilla
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: David Svajda <dsvajda(at)home.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 9:13 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Hangar Space
>
>
> >
> > I'm a long way from having to move out of the garage, but I took a
> tour
> > of area airports today to get on their hangar waiting lists. Looks
> like
> > average wait in the K.C. area is 3 years. Any listers have any clever
> > ways to arrange hangar space besides signup, wait, pray?
> >
> > Dave Svajda
> > 6A Wings
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Vans Strobe Molex Connectors |
In a message dated 3/8/01 10:47:09 PM Eastern Standard Time,
nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes:
> Can any one give me a play by play on how to install Molex connectors?
>
> I have a Whelen strobe power supply from Van with the installation package.
> I need to connect the three strobe light leads and the power/ground lines to
> the connectors.
>
> Thank-you,
>
Norman,
I assume you have the installation instructions. If not, let me know and
I'll dig mine up tomorrow and scan 'em for you. That said...
There are two sets of ears on each pin. One set should be crimped around the
stripped end of the wire, with the other set of ears crimped around the
insulation - I suspect this acts as a strain relief. With a little fiddling,
you can get a nice crimp using a set of needle nose pliars. Or, if you know
someone with the appropriate crimpers, borrow 'em, and do it in 1/2 the time.
A key is to make sure you use the correct type of pin (there are two - one
has an open end, one has a closed end. They are not interchangable). Take
the appropriate colored wire, and also the appropriate pin (several times I
did a nice crimp job, only to realize I'd crimped the wrong kind of pin on a
particular wire) and get started... Compared to some of the stuff you've
gotta do, this one is pretty easy.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Reece" <ReeceRV3(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/06/01 |
Hello Jim & et al!
Rob Reece here also from Wichita with RV-3 SN45 under construction.
Van has the CN-2-I out and is available to all builders of the type I spars
at no cost. The letter from Vans dated Jan 20, 1997 describes the CN-2-I in
detail and the kits from Vans include all the parts, materials and
instructions for the type I spars. The letter does reinforce Jim's
statement that although the CN-2-I will increase the (spar) strength, it
WILL NOT be sufficient to support the overweight condition at aerobatic
G-limits.
The mod is not difficult and can be done in a LONG three day weekend with
some experienced help and prep work (drilling off bottom skin and/or
removing wing tanks).
There are a few other concerns with the older 1/8" x 1 1/4" type one wing
spars in that there were one or two "AD" type notices put out in Vans
newsletters. One is (especially if you are buying an older type 1 spar
RV-3) that cracks have developed in the #3 bulkhead inside lower corners
where the bulkhead transitions to attach to the spar. A doubler is
recommended in this area. All #3 bulkheads supplied by Vans after 1979 had
a larger inside radius similar to the gusset recommended and have not had
the cracking problems. I have a sketch from RVator #19 if anyone is
interested. (NOTE: The earlier type I spar design numbered the bulkhead
#1, #2, #3, etc. The #2 and #3 bulkheads are the ones that incase and
attach to the spar).
For those of you in the process of doing CN-2-1 or II, the late Bill
Benedict suggested utilizing a one piece angle when doing CN-2 in lieu of
cutting the angle to fit between the ribs. At the time of our conversation
they (?) were considering this method of spar mod to the Chard 6 which had
similar spar construction to the RV-3 type I spars. I don't know if it was
ever done on the Chard 6 or not? Bill's opinion was that "if it was me
doing the mod that's the way I would do it". . . take it for what you think
it's worth, but it sure means a lot to me.
I found CN-I to be very simple with the most challenging part was to drill
out my baggage floor to get access to the back side of the rear
spar/bulkhead #5. With the fuselage inverted it was very easy to get the
right "posture" to make the mods. I also cut access holes in my seat bottom
to access the front of bulkhead #5 so that I could look at and verify that
the bolts were in correctly. I will put doublers on and perhaps access
panels there for future inspections of the bolts.
Best regards,
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN45
Wichita KS
316-773-5762
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)home.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 2:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/06/01
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Jim Oke"
>
> The situation is that CN-2 referred to below is ONLY applicable to RV-3
with
> type II spars. Implementation of CN-2 will apparently (and Van's has done
> extensive testing to confirm this) increase the strength of type II spars
to
> the point such that aerobatic category load limits apply to that aircraft.
> (Note that the aircraft weight must remain below 1050 lbs. for this to
> apply; heavier RV-3s simply do not qualify.)
>
> Those of us with type I spars are simply out of luck as Van's feels there
is
> no practical way to increase the strength of these spars to meet aerobatic
> category specs. This is regardless of whether CN-1 (the root rib and aft
> spar modification) has been implemented or not.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
| Subject: | Re: Hangar Space |
It depends on your airport and the hangar manager but....
Try meeting and talking to the hangar owners often and tell them your
thoughts. Do the hangars allow for more than one airplane per hangar? That
makes it easier to get a spot. Do the leg work for the manager since not
all airplanes will share tight spaces together well. You'll be surprise at
the advantage of 21' wingspans that RV's have. Your manager will also
appreciate the leg work that you did to figure out who you can share space
with. Of course special circumstances happen always. I was told the
waiting list was 2 years and the manager called me in two weeks. I just
arranged for a hotel for Sun-n-fun 2001 this week-I made a dozen or so calls
to the same places for 3 days in a row and sure enough, someone canceled.
Did the same last year.
Good luck.
>
>I'm a long way from having to move out of the garage, but I took a tour
>of area airports today to get on their hangar waiting lists. Looks like
>average wait in the K.C. area is 3 years. Any listers have any clever
>ways to arrange hangar space besides signup, wait, pray?
>
>Dave Svajda
>6A Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans Strobe Molex Connectors |
>From: KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Vans Strobe Molex Connectors
>Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 23:15:55 EST
>
>
>In a message dated 3/8/01 10:47:09 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes:
>
>
> > Can any one give me a play by play on how to install Molex connectors?
> >
> > I have a Whelen strobe power supply from Van with the installation
>package.
> > I need to connect the three strobe light leads and the power/ground
>lines to
> > the connectors.
> >
> > Thank-you,
> >
>
>Norman,
>
>I assume you have the installation instructions. If not, let me know and
>I'll dig mine up tomorrow and scan 'em for you. That said...
>
>There are two sets of ears on each pin. One set should be crimped around
>the
>stripped end of the wire, with the other set of ears crimped around the
>insulation - I suspect this acts as a strain relief. With a little
>fiddling,
>you can get a nice crimp using a set of needle nose pliars. Or, if you
>know
>someone with the appropriate crimpers, borrow 'em, and do it in 1/2 the
>time.
>
>A key is to make sure you use the correct type of pin (there are two - one
>has an open end, one has a closed end. They are not interchangable). Take
>the appropriate colored wire, and also the appropriate pin (several times I
>did a nice crimp job, only to realize I'd crimped the wrong kind of pin on
>a
>particular wire) and get started... Compared to some of the stuff you've
>gotta do, this one is pretty easy.
>
>Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
>RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
>
A molex pin crimp tool can be found at an electronics supply store. They
really do make for a high quality crimp on the pins but it is important to
strip just the right amount of insulation off the wires, so that the strain
relief crimp grabs the insulation properly. You'll get the hang of it in
short order.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/06/01 |
Hi Jim,
Where did you get that piece of (mis)information? The whole point of doing the
CN-2-I (CN-301 Type I) for the Type I spars (is to get then up to +6, -3 Gs.
If I'm mistaken I'd definitely like to hear it before pulling 5 - 6 Gs! So far
I've only done rolls and steep turns, not more than 2.5 to 3 Gs.
As to gross weight, yes keep it below 1050 pounds + any wing tank fuel.
Finn
Jim Oke wrote:
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Jim Oke"
> The situation is that CN-2 referred to below is ONLY applicable to RV-3 with
> type II spars. Implementation of CN-2 will apparently (and Van's has done
> extensive testing to confirm this) increase the strength of type II spars to
> the point such that aerobatic category load limits apply to that aircraft.
> (Note that the aircraft weight must remain below 1050 lbs. for this to
> apply; heavier RV-3s simply do not qualify.)
>
> Those of us with type I spars are simply out of luck as Van's feels there is
> no practical way to increase the strength of these spars to meet aerobatic
> category specs. This is regardless of whether CN-1 (the root rib and aft
> spar modification) has been implemented or not.
Shop online without a credit card
http://www.rocketcash.com
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/06/01 |
You have to drill out the two fuselage bulkheads (which boxes in the spars) and
rivit in the two new ones which come matched to the spars.
Finn
Bruce Meacham wrote:
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Bruce Meacham"
>
> I'm under the impression that building and attaching new wet wings was a
> significant but straight forward task. The mounts hadn't changed. Can
> anyone proove me wrong?
Shop online without a credit card
http://www.rocketcash.com
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon Robertson <gordon(at)safemail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: interior cost - was - Where to order seats? |
Bill,
I am with you. By the way, here is a link to the Jon Johanson seats
http://tabshred.com/moe/jonsseat.htm
What seats are you using in your car? Have you measured them and do you
think they will fit in the plane? I am building an RV-8 and am very
interested in Jon's seats, but they are in Australia and the hassle of
getting them shipped seems to be big.
Gordon Robertson
RV8 Fuse
$1600. Whoa. Ok, I have to ask, in case I'm missing something. The
race
seats in my car are more supportive, set up for 5 point harnesses and I
presume lighter (12 lbs per seat) than the stock RV seats......oh, and
they
cost $250 each. I have not seen a picture of the seats in Jon
Johanson's
(spelling?) plane, but I understand them to be car racing seats. My
question is why wouldn't you just buy $500 worth of racing seats and put
them in? That doesn't include interior fabric of course, but I have
little
doubt that $100 in fabric and aluminum would cover the interior and take
less than a day to put in.
I am building the wings currently, so I ADMIT I am more asking about
this
than I am stating an opinion. Are there fit issues with a standard
racing
seat? Why are people paying so much for seats when racing seats seem to
offer more advantage for less cost?
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Here's why the RV-9A is so fast! |
I was browsing the FAA registry and came across this. Check the Horsepower.
Typo or Van's little secret?
N-Number 129RV
Amateur-Built? Yes
Aircraft Make Vans Aircraft Inc
Aircraft Model RV-9A
Serial Number 2
Year Manufactured 2000
Aircraft Type Land
Engine Make Lycoming
Engine Model 0-320 SERIES
Horsepower 180
Seats 2
Type of Ownership Corporation
Owner Name Vans Aircraft Inc
Street Po Box 160
City North Plains, OR 97133-0160
FAA Region Northwest-Mountain
Country US
Registration Date 29-Mar-2000
Last Activity Date 29-Mar-2000
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
fuel and brake lines and wiring
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Spun Aluminum Spinner |
For those who were recently talking about spinners, I saw a spun aluminum
spinner for $145 on the Murphy site. Goto the very bottom of this page:
http://www.murphyair.com/Product%20Info/Super/SR_pricing.htm
I was researching more on their new SR3500. Check it out at:
http://www.murphyair.com/Product%20Info/Super/SRinfo.htm
Russian 9 cylinder supercharged 360 hp radial engine. Looks like a little
Beaver. Cool.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Seward747(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Santa Ynez Airport |
Years ago, Santa Ynez had an entire fleet of gray '58 Chevys for rent by
transient pilots. Must have been at least 10 or 15 of them, all battleship
gray with "Santa Ynez Airport" stenciled in black, military style, on the
front doors. I just happened to see, again this was years ago, the entire
fleet up for sale in the classifieds in the L. A. Times one day. Anyone know
where they ended up? Truly the end of an era, too bad.
Doug Seward
Seattle area
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine manuals? |
>The manual
> consists primarily of tiny, poorly reproduced, illegible charts for just
> about every 4 cylinder engine Lycoming has ever produced.
>
> The other parts of the manual are vague generalities that any pilot is
> familiar with. The Lycoming web site is far more useful.
I agree that the Operators Manual is pretty lame, but I still think it is
useful. It contains things like temp. and pressure limits (useful for making
the green marks on your gauge), maintenance intervals, recommended oil
grades for different temps, etc. My memory's not so good that I remember all
those little things so I do refer to the book from time to time.
As for the other ones -- I got the installation drawings and haven't found
them to be all that useful. I have found both the overhaul manual and the
parts manual to be useful. Although IMHO the fact that they charge anything
at all, never mind $35 ea. for 2.50 worth of photocopied sheets, is
shameful. At the very least these books should be included with your
$20,000+ engine. If it weren't illegal I'd suggest finding someone who
already has the manuals and photocopying them yourself....
It would also be good to get a magneto manual. My Operators manual talks
about Bendix mags (my engine came with Slicks) and doesn't even say much
about those. Anyone know if the Slick manuals are on the web?
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Brewster" <kevin(at)synelec.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans Strobe Molex Connectors |
If you are going to do this with pliers rather than the proper crimp-tool I
suggest you also solder the wire in place. It is very hard to get the
crimp-flanges to curl over into the wire for a secure connection using
pliers. Lots of voltage in those wires ... I wouldn't want them coming out
:)
Kevin Brewster
www.synelec.com.au/mustang
Australia
> insulation - I suspect this acts as a strain relief. With a little
fiddling,
> you can get a nice crimp using a set of needle nose pliars. Or, if you
know
> someone with the appropriate crimpers, borrow 'em, and do it in 1/2 the
time.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Hodgson" <bob(at)hodgson252.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | RV3B wings on old fuselage |
> From: "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)home.com>
> So, any one out there tackling the retrofit of RV-3B wings to an older
RV-3
> fuselage ?
>
> Please speak up and let us know how it goes.
Jim and all,
I plead guilty - I've got new 3B wings and an old kit (originally type I
wings). To save time, I went for the QB option on the wings. You may know
that Van's give a discount to existing builders (to repay them for their
frustrations and long-term loyalty over the years ?)
The wings are as nice as all QB kits are, and the spar is much much simpler,
with only 4 basic parts; -
1 channel section web (now .063, up from .040)
2 solid spar booms (machined down in thickness in steps along their
length)
1 1/8 thick "waffle plate" which goes on the aft side of the web and
fulfills the functions of web-stiffeners, rib mounts, doublers etc in one
piece
This is similar to the RV-8, but still incorporates a centre-line join with
4 steel splice plates as before (unlike the -8). The bolts are now bigger
(3/8 not 5/16), and on the QB, the holes are drilled and reamed for you
(though a couple on mine are a little over-reamed).
As Finn said, you have to build a new centre-section bulkhead assembly, as
this has to be drilled/reamed in situ with the spar splice, but changing the
bulkhead is easier than trying to drill the spar splice accurately with the
wings on the aeroplane.
While the original design was easier for Van and us to build with hand
tools, it was labour-intensive, and this new design I suppose only became
possible when the company had grown enough to afford the CNC cutting, boom
thicknessing, etc.
Bonuses -
Ailerons and flaps come ready-made (adding to my existing collection of OK,
not-OK and nearly-OK ailerons !)
New-style aileron hinges (aluminium plate)
and, best of all, *** wing tanks made, sealed and tested ***.
Possibility of using existing fuselage tank as well as these (with
permission for overweight take-offs from Van's and the PFA here in the UK)
to gave bladder-busting endurance for those escort missions to Berlin . . .
Negatives -
Can't any longer say 'I did it all myself' (although the work I will have
done is probably equivalent to at least 2 complete aeroplanes ??)
Aileron bell-cranks are now -8 items, which rotate on cylindrical bushings.
Would have preferred ball-bearings as per original, for absolutely minimum
friction.
(Not so sure about this one) - Solid booms don't allow any 'fail-safe'
capability for cracks, although even with the anodising I suspect fatigue
would only start to be a factor many years down the road.
And the old wings which you spent months / years lovingly crafting, back in
your youth ? Well, I guess they could be modified later for a new aeroplane
to use up all those extra bits you made along the way :-) I didn't find it
easy to do the CN-2 mod to a satisfactory standard (limited access for
reaming etc on a completed 'dry' wing), but if you removed the inboard
leading edge for access to the front side of the spar, it would be easy.
Then build wing tanks to replace the LE ?
Jim, CN-2-1 does apply to Type I wings to allow aerobatics +6/-3 at 1050
lbs, as far as Van is concerned - I don't know about the Canadian regs
though.
I'm the world's slowest builder, but hope the combination of these new
wings, existing fuselage and tail, and extra tankage will result in the
world's best single-seater.
Bob Hodgson
RV3B, Lyc 0-320-A2B, Pacesetter 68x69
(UK)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Meacham" <bruce_meacham(at)hotmail.com> |
Speeking of bladder busting...
I wrote up my trip accross the US last summer and submitted it to Douge
Reeves at the World Wide Wing. The RV-3 makes a sweet long haul cross
country machine when the weather is in your favore.
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/rv_travel/brucemeacham_usa.htm
Bruce
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6a accident |
B. Reg. No.: 46KA M/M: RV6 Desc: RV-6A VANS
Activity: Unknown Phase: Unknown GA-A/C: General Aviation
Descr: AIRCRAFT DECLARED EMERGENCY BECAUSE OF A ROUGH RUNNING ENGINE AT
062200PST, REQUESTED VECTOR TO NID, RADIO AND RADAR CONTACT LOST AT
4,700 FT AS ACFT WAS LOSING ALTITUDE, 2 FATAL, RIDGECREST, CA
WX: KNID 070538Z 18005KT 6SM RA BR FEW025 BKN029 OVC043 A3006 RMK SLP173
Damage: Destroyed
C2. Injury Data: # Crew: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
# Pass: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
# Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
D. Location. City: RIDGECREST State: CA Country: US
E. Event Date: 03/07/2001 Time: 0600
F. Invest Coverage. IIC: Reg/DO: WP01 DO City: VAN NUYS
DO State: CA Others: NTSB PLAGENS
Dest: BISHOP, CA Last Radio Cont: 35-38-16/117-54-31 Flt Plan: IFR
Last Clearance: FLY HEADING 071 DEG, MAINT 13000 WX Briefing: U
Other:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine manuals? |
All temps and pressures are listed on the Type Certificate so you don't need
the manuals for that bit of info.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2001 1:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine manuals?
>
> >The manual
> > consists primarily of tiny, poorly reproduced, illegible charts for just
> > about every 4 cylinder engine Lycoming has ever produced.
> >
> > The other parts of the manual are vague generalities that any pilot is
> > familiar with. The Lycoming web site is far more useful.
>
> I agree that the Operators Manual is pretty lame, but I still think it is
> useful. It contains things like temp. and pressure limits (useful for
making
> the green marks on your gauge), maintenance intervals, recommended oil
> grades for different temps, etc. My memory's not so good that I remember
all
> those little things so I do refer to the book from time to time.
>
> As for the other ones -- I got the installation drawings and haven't found
> them to be all that useful. I have found both the overhaul manual and the
> parts manual to be useful. Although IMHO the fact that they charge
anything
> at all, never mind $35 ea. for 2.50 worth of photocopied sheets, is
> shameful. At the very least these books should be included with your
> $20,000+ engine. If it weren't illegal I'd suggest finding someone who
> already has the manuals and photocopying them yourself....
>
> It would also be good to get a magneto manual. My Operators manual talks
> about Bendix mags (my engine came with Slicks) and doesn't even say much
> about those. Anyone know if the Slick manuals are on the web?
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~175 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> www.vanshomewing.org
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Doble" <mark_doble(at)hp.com> |
| Subject: | Vans NACA airscoop dimensions |
Does anyone have a scan and/or dimensions of the NACA airscoop provided by
Vans. I've seen refs in the archives but can't find the scan...
I can't wait any longer for parts to arrive!
thanks,
Mark
mark_doble(at)hp.com
Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/06/01 |
Hi all;
Several listers have written to me stating that there is indeed a CN-2-1
modification out that is intended for the earlier "type I" RV-3 spars (the
ones using 1/8" x 1 1/4' stock). My last correspondence from Vans on this
topic was in August and October of 1996 and which stated the prospects for a
type I spar mod were poor. I have heard nothing since on this topic from
Vans but it sounds like there is indeed more recent info available.
Anyway I stand corrected and can only say check with Vans re: the latest and
greatest on RV-3 wing modifications.
Jim Oke
Rv3-, C-FIZM
----- Original Message -----
From: "Finn Lassen" <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 11:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/06/01
>
> Hi Jim,
>
> Where did you get that piece of (mis)information? The whole point of doing
the
> CN-2-I (CN-301 Type I) for the Type I spars (is to get then up to +6, -3
Gs.
>
> If I'm mistaken I'd definitely like to hear it before pulling 5 - 6 Gs! So
far
> I've only done rolls and steep turns, not more than 2.5 to 3 Gs.
>
> As to gross weight, yes keep it below 1050 pounds + any wing tank fuel.
>
> Finn
>
> Jim Oke wrote:
>
> > --> RV3-List message posted by: "Jim Oke"
>
> > The situation is that CN-2 referred to below is ONLY applicable to RV-3
with
> > type II spars. Implementation of CN-2 will apparently (and Van's has
done
> > extensive testing to confirm this) increase the strength of type II
spars to
> > the point such that aerobatic category load limits apply to that
aircraft.
> > (Note that the aircraft weight must remain below 1050 lbs. for this to
> > apply; heavier RV-3s simply do not qualify.)
> >
> > Those of us with type I spars are simply out of luck as Van's feels
there is
> > no practical way to increase the strength of these spars to meet
aerobatic
> > category specs. This is regardless of whether CN-1 (the root rib and aft
> > spar modification) has been implemented or not.
>
>
> Shop online without a credit card
> http://www.rocketcash.com
> RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Engine manuals? |
>
>I see several that look like they might be useful:
>
>Installation Drawing $35
>Operator's Manual $15
>Overhaul Manual $55
>Parts Catalog $30
>Schematic - RSA-5 and RSA-10 Fuel Injector System $5
>Index of Service Bulletins, Letters and Instructions $5
>
>Questions:
>
>1. Has anyone used the installation drawing? Is there important info
>there that isn't available somewhere else? I'm not sure I want to
>spend $35 for it.
>
>
Kevin,
I bit the bullet and purchased the installation drawing for my O-320.
It is an 8 to 10 foot long, three or four view, dimensioned drawing of
the engine and accessories.
For me the drawing was a necessity. When I received my engine, I had
never even seen an aircraft engine "up close and personal". I didn't
have a clue as to which port was for what. With the drawing, I was
able to install and engine and plumbing without other assistance.
I would say that if you are familiar with Lycomings (or if you can get
assistance from someone who is familiar with them), you can get along
without the drawing. Otherwise, you need either the drawing or some
other reference to tell you what goes where.
Mark Nielsen
RV-6, 618 hours
Green Bay, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moshe Lichtman" <moshe_lichtman(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spun Aluminum Spinner |
They have several spinners. The one I ordered is 13" diam, 16" long. Nice
folks to deal with
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 11:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: Spun Aluminum Spinner
>
> For those who were recently talking about spinners, I saw a spun aluminum
> spinner for $145 on the Murphy site. Goto the very bottom of this page:
> http://www.murphyair.com/Product%20Info/Super/SR_pricing.htm
> I was researching more on their new SR3500. Check it out at:
> http://www.murphyair.com/Product%20Info/Super/SRinfo.htm
> Russian 9 cylinder supercharged 360 hp radial engine. Looks like a little
> Beaver. Cool.
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Old o-320 flange bushings? |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 3:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: Old o-320 flange bushings?
>
> How do you "roll" internal threads? Specially ones less than 1/2"??? -Old
> engineer wants to know!
>
With a roll tap. From a machinist.Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
Larry: I just got home- noon friday and tired looks like I will be going
back to Clovis at midnight to catch another train to Childress. I doubt
seriously if I will be able to make ABI. Boy this work thing is really
cutting into my free time. But at least I'm back to work and making a living
instead of depleating savings. Rick , Judy , Tim , James , Joel and probably
several more will try and get there. Weather right now doesen't look good.
Tomarrow is another day. Are you planning to go to Sun And Fun? Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spun Aluminum Spinner |
Has anyone used one of these? i.e.. If I order one will I be looking at
reinventing the wheel installing it?
Ross
> For those who were recently talking about spinners, I saw a spun aluminum
> spinner for $145 on the Murphy site. Goto the very bottom of this page:
> http://www.murphyair.com/Product%20Info/Super/SR_pricing.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Spun Aluminum Spinner |
Ross, I just spoke with Murphy, the spinner kit with bulkheads etc is $205
CN. it is not polished, but is "polishable". I put in a call to Catto to ask
him if he could set it up for me to fit my prop. Originally he was going to
use the BNC 12 1/8 polished spinner which might have resulted in cowling
modifications.
Kevin -9A
> as anyone used one of these? i.e.. If I order one will I be looking at
> reinventing the wheel installing it?
>
> Ross
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: semco 250a air gun for proseal |
BARRY-YES USE THE 6.OZ TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Parking Brake Valve |
I recently took delivery of Van's parking brake valve. Cute little bugger.
However, typical of Van's stuff, there were no instructions or plans as
to how to hook it up, where to put it, etc.
Any suggestions?
Charlie Brame
RV6A-QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bevel main skins |
> John, here is what I did and it came out great! Go ahead and cut a square
> piece from the skin that is being overlapped-in my case it is the inboard
> skin that I had to cut (1.25 inch from the top and 1.5 inches over. I just
> went out there and measured for you. Try it on the bottom of the wing
> first-if you do it correctly you will like mucho. I read in the archives
that
> Bill Bendict recommended this. The heck with the filing and the dims
should
> not matter.BTW, some guys don't even bother with this. I am a couple of
weeks
> ahead of you so this is still fresh in my mind. Contact me off list if I
can
> be of more help. Bob in Arkansas
John & Bob,
I am one of the guys that didn't bother with this... just let the skins
overlap fully. I did then take a 3" Scotbrite wheel and bevel the aft edge
down to nothing. It rides on the flap just fine and looks fine.
FWIW,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, transporting to the hangar tomorrow
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Vetterman exhaust question |
I have a question you racing gurus might know the answer to: (are ya listenin
Tannerman?) I buffed my stainless exhaust pipes so they are shiny, is there
anything a guy can put on them to keep them shiny?
Thanks,
Kevin -9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Vetterman exhaust question |
The only thing I can suggest (and I wouldn't do it to mine) is have them
high temp clear powder coated. I had something similar done to my headers on
my Nova.(in color though--not clear) The problem is---Vetterman doesn't want
his exhaust coated.
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2001 4:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Vetterman exhaust question
I have a question you racing gurus might know the answer to: (are ya
listenin
Tannerman?) I buffed my stainless exhaust pipes so they are shiny, is there
anything a guy can put on them to keep them shiny?
Thanks,
Kevin -9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Any RVs at VCT? (Victoria, Texas) |
Just wondering if any builders are building or flying an RV6 or 6A in
Victoria, Texas. I thought I saw one when I was taxing out the other day.
If there are please drop me an email. I overnight in VCT every Tuesday in
March and would love to stop by and check one out. Thanks...
Kurt in OKC....
Building the worlds slowest Quickbuild 6A......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Vetterman exhaust question |
Regular applications of elbow grease is probably your best solution.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Spun Aluminum Spinner |
In a message dated 3/9/01 10:51:21 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< Ross, I just spoke with Murphy, the spinner kit with bulkheads etc is $205
CN. it is not polished, but is "polishable". I put in a call to Catto to ask
him if he could set it up for me to fit my prop. >>
When you get this spinner from Murphy you will be astonished (as we were when
my buddy put one on his Rebel) at the heavy weight of this bad boy. It must
3X the weight of Van's fiberglass spinner.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Spun Aluminum Spinner |
Thanks for the tip, I had not considered that there may be a weight penalty.
I had better research this some more before I order one. I have not heard
back from Catto yet either, he may very well have already figured this out.
Kevin -9A
>When you get this spinner from Murphy you will be astonished (as we were
>when
>my buddy put one on his Rebel) at the heavy weight of this bad boy. It
>must
>3X the weight of Van's fiberglass spinner.
>
>-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terminaltown(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Terminal Town is For Sale |
We are in Seattle, Wa. and I just finished putting in order more than
100,000 terminals and other inventory items that launched off their shelves
and formed up into a pile during our quake last week when most of our system
fell over due to a 6.8 earth shaking. It was truly scary and awesome all at
the same moment.
As it says above, Terminal Town is for sale. The site and inventory. It's a
good, small easy to run business that you can run out of a garage size
building. The price is between $10 and $15K depending on the final value of
the present inventory.
Why is it for sale? My wife and I started this business together about 8
years ago and have enjoyed growing it. But our interests have changed.
If you are interested in having an up and running fun
E business that meets a market need. Contact me at
206-242-2527 or E mail me at terminaltown(at)aol.com!
In the mean time I have shut the shopping cart off to stop any further
orders from coming in so I can get a handle on the inventory.
Best regards,
John @ Terminal Town's Home Page!
From: Terminaltown(at)aol.com
Full-name: Terminaltown
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 02:46:23 EST
Subject: Terminal Town is For Sale
We are in Seattle, Wa. and I just finished putting in order more than 100,000
terminals and other inventory items that launched off their shelves and
formed up into a pile during our quake last week when most of our system fell
over due to a 6.8 earth shaking. It was truly scary and awesome all at the
same moment.
As it says above, Terminal Town is for sale. The site and inventory. It's a
good, small easy to run business that you can run out of a garage size
building. The price is between $10 and $15K depending on the final value of
the present inventory.
Why is it for sale? My wife and I started this business together about 8
years ago and have enjoyed growing it. But our interests have changed.
If you are interested in having an up and running fun
E business that meets a market need. Contact me at
206-242-2527 or E mail me at terminaltown(at)aol.com!
In the mean time I have shut the shopping cart off to stop any further orders
from coming in so I can get a handle on the inventory.
Best regards,
John @ Terminal Town's Home Page!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SALNED71(at)AOL.COM |
What software do I need to use to play with paint schemes for the RV-8. I'm
not very computer literate, but with help from our kids we can usually get
through stuff.
I would appreciate any help in drawing lines and filling with paint on
the three view drawings of the RV-8 from Van's.
Thanks!!! Ed Kowalski...#80127
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | drilling tank ribs |
grrrrrrrrrrr...I'm building an RV-6...I got ahead of myself and missed this in
the plans and the supplemental instructions...the latter call for 11 holes to
be drilled in the flanges that attach the end tank ribs to the baffles...and 8
for the interior tank ribs. Guess what I did? Yup, I got on a roll and
drilled 8. I drilled them with a #40 drill, thinking that I would drill them to
take a 1/8" rivet or pop rivet later on, but I also see on Mike Nellis' web
site that they're supposed to take 3/32" rivets anyway.
So...the obvious questions:
1) Do I need to get new tank ribs so I can drill the holes properly? Or can I
add some holes in between the 8 that I drilled?
2) Where in the plans/directions does it say to drill 11 for the end ribs, vice
8? If I missed that, then I might be missing other things...
Semper Fi
John
RV-6 (scratching his head again)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | baffles, engine primer lines |
I just posted a few pics of my baffles on a web page at
http://rv8asite.homestead.com/baffles.html.
I updated my plumbing page with a few pics of my engine primer at
http://rv8asite.homestead.com/plumbing.html.
Jerry Carter
RV-8A
FAB and other finishing details
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: drilling tank ribs |
In a message dated 3/10/01 6:33:16 AM Central Standard Time,
jwlawson(at)hargray.com writes:
Hi John,
<< 1) Do I need to get new tank ribs so I can drill the holes properly? Or
can I add some holes in between the 8 that I drilled?
No big deal. Just drill holes in between. The reason for the extra rivets
is to have a smaller space between rivets and lessen the chance of a leak.
Drill the holes inbetween and use #40 rivets and you will be fine.
2) Where in the plans/directions does it say to drill 11 for the end ribs,
vice 8? If I missed that, then I might be missing other things...
>>
I don't want to dig out the plans but If my rusty old memory serves me
correctly, it was on the tank drawing and didn't say specifically say 11
rivets. I believe it called out the rivet size and spacing in inches which
would net you 11 rivets. If I remeber correctly, it was in the 3D drawing
toward the top.
happy building,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Finish Kit - engine hung)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Huft" <iflygood(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Aluminum Gear Legs |
Hi all
I know we have discussed this before, but there is a bit of a new wrinkle to
tell you about.
DISCLAIMER -- Robbie Grove is my brother's brother-in-law.
I have been working with Robbie Grove of Grove Aircraft for the last year on
his aluminum gear legs for the RV8. He sent me a set of the ones he has been
selling. They are drilled for internal brake lines, and tapered in width and
thickness. They save about 18 pounds over the stock steel ones that van's
sell. They have been drop tested to FAR part 23 standards, and I think he
has sold about 20 sets. One set is at vans for testing, but I don't think
they have done anything yet.
The new wrinkle is that I have finally convinced him to make a set that have
an airfoil shape cross section. He has a CNC mill that can do this, in
addition to the two-dimensional taper. They are a little heavier, and so
only save about 11 pounds over the stock legs. They do not need leg
fairings, so maybe that is another pound saved.
It would be fun to polish them, if you had other polished metal on the
airplane. Also, it is easier to clamp on to them to jack up a wheel, without
taking the fairings off.
You can see some pictures of them on my web site at
http://skywagon.homestead.com/rv8.html
Robbie needs to make them in batches of 5 or more, there is contact
information on the web page. He is going to charge $1495 a set, including
brackets and hardware.
Happy building and flying... John Huft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: drilling tank ribs |
Don't be alarmed, just use a -4 rivet on the end rib. I believe either Wil
Cretsinger, or "The Bunny" covered this is their Wing Notes. Vans used
the -3 rivets with closer spacing maybe because these rivets are easier to
set. The sealant is going to hold the baffle in any event. Push on and don't
worry about it. I am not aware of any interference problems in this area
caused by using a Universal Rivet Head in this place.
Marty in Brentwood, TN RV6A Fuselage.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Lawson" <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 7:30 AM
Subject: RV-List: drilling tank ribs
>
>
> grrrrrrrrrrr...I'm building an RV-6...I got ahead of myself and missed
this in the plans and the supplemental instructions...the latter call for 11
holes to be drilled in the flanges that attach the end tank ribs to the
baffles...and 8 for the interior tank ribs. Guess what I did? Yup, I got on
a roll and
> drilled 8. I drilled them with a #40 drill, thinking that I would drill
them to take a 1/8" rivet or pop rivet later on, but I also see on Mike
Nellis' web site that they're supposed to take 3/32" rivets anyway.
>
> So...the obvious questions:
>
> 1) Do I need to get new tank ribs so I can drill the holes properly? Or
can I add some holes in between the 8 that I drilled?
>
> 2) Where in the plans/directions does it say to drill 11 for the end
ribs, vice 8? If I missed that, then I might be missing other things...
>
> Semper Fi
> John
> RV-6 (scratching his head again)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: drilling tank ribs |
The plans on drawing 18 don't specifically state 11 holes but you can count
up the "x's" and see 11. The plans do state that 3/4" spacing as opposed to
1" spacing on the inner ribs. I used 1/4" spacing to start then 3/4"
spacing between the rivets (that was of course on the second one, after I
botched the first).
Mike Nellis
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
RV-6 N699BM (res) Gooping up the tanks
Plainfield, IL (LOT)
http://bmnellis.com
>
> Hi John,
>
> << 1) Do I need to get new tank ribs so I can drill the holes properly?
Or
> can I add some holes in between the 8 that I drilled?
> No big deal. Just drill holes in between. The reason for the extra
rivets
> is to have a smaller space between rivets and lessen the chance of a leak.
> Drill the holes inbetween and use #40 rivets and you will be fine.
>
> 2) Where in the plans/directions does it say to drill 11 for the end
ribs,
> vice 8? If I missed that, then I might be missing other things...
> >>
>
> I don't want to dig out the plans but If my rusty old memory serves me
> correctly, it was on the tank drawing and didn't say specifically say 11
> rivets. I believe it called out the rivet size and spacing in inches
which
> would net you 11 rivets. If I remeber correctly, it was in the 3D drawing
> toward the top.
>
> happy building,
> Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
> RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Finish Kit - engine hung)
> http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: drilling tank ribs |
John,
I would just add a couple of additional holes as necessary. My first tank
checked out with no leaks.
Carry on.
Mike Nellis
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
RV-6 N699BM (res) Gooping up the tanks
Plainfield, IL (LOT)
http://bmnellis.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Lawson" <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 7:30 AM
Subject: RV-List: drilling tank ribs
>
>
> grrrrrrrrrrr...I'm building an RV-6...I got ahead of myself and missed
this in the plans and the supplemental instructions...the latter call for 11
holes to be drilled in the flanges that attach the end tank ribs to the
baffles...and 8 for the interior tank ribs. Guess what I did? Yup, I got on
a roll and
> drilled 8. I drilled them with a #40 drill, thinking that I would drill
them to take a 1/8" rivet or pop rivet later on, but I also see on Mike
Nellis' web site that they're supposed to take 3/32" rivets anyway.
>
> So...the obvious questions:
>
> 1) Do I need to get new tank ribs so I can drill the holes properly? Or
can I add some holes in between the 8 that I drilled?
>
> 2) Where in the plans/directions does it say to drill 11 for the end
ribs, vice 8? If I missed that, then I might be missing other things...
>
> Semper Fi
> John
> RV-6 (scratching his head again)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Ford <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | canopy deck--slider |
I'm working on the canopy deck for a slider and have question about
rivet type and size for the f6113 & f6110--it's not laid out in plans.
Also where f6110 is laid on the longeron at f602 there are already an470
rivets there per plans. Has anyone else run into this?
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: drilling tank ribs |
John, NO PROBLEM. I did the same, called Vans and Scott said the only reason
they did that was to cut down a little on expense with the pops. Someone else
said they called and was told the 1/8ths will make it even stronger. Just
make sure you seal them good. I was really disappointed when I did that too.
No Bigee, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: drilling tank ribs |
If you have 8 make them 1/8 or you could actually squeeze in some more 3/32.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
I am building a 6 pre punched with tank ribs/baffle drilled. I see in the
plans it says to drill #30 for the screws at this time. When do I drill up to
#19 size holes for the nutplates? l can not find anywhere later that this is
to be done. Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | windsaloft(at)rmisp.com (Terri Watson) |
Growing old is mandatory
Growing up is optional.
Terri Watson
Lander, Wyoming
RV-6 HS underway
Knocked out a bedroom wall to make two rooms into one, and the workshop
bigger....................
:=)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Parking Brake Valve |
Charles,
I think the choice is yours. I put mine were the flex hose meets the
aluminum lines. There are pictures on my website...I don't know if it will
work on a -6.
>
>I recently took delivery of Van's parking brake valve. Cute little bugger.
>
>However, typical of Van's stuff, there were no instructions or plans as
>to how to hook it up, where to put it, etc.
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>Charlie Brame
>RV6A-QB
>
>
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo
(570)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tank nutplates |
After drilling the #30 holes in the spar flanges you need to drill the holes
to mount the nutplates. After the nut plate mounting holes are drilled but
BEFORE you rivet the nutplates into position you can drill the #19 hole
size. You can use the #30 hole and a cleco to hole the nutplate in place
while you drill the nutplate mount holes.
Sam Buchanan put together a nice demo on how on how to install nutplates.
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/tanks.html
Mike Nellis
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
RV-6 N699BM (res) Gooping up the tanks
Plainfield, IL (LOT)
http://bmnellis.com
>
> I am building a 6 pre punched with tank ribs/baffle drilled. I see in the
> plans it says to drill #30 for the screws at this time. When do I drill up
to
> #19 size holes for the nutplates? l can not find anywhere later that this
is
> to be done. Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: tank nutplates |
Hi Bob,
The reason to drill to #30 intially is that it makes it easier to drill the
nut plates. You can cleco the nut plate in place throughy the threaded part
and into the #30 hole, then using a long #40, drill the nut plate for its
rivets. Once done, take it apart and open the #30 hole up with a 19 drill.
Sam Buchannan has some good pictures of this technique on his web site in the
tank section.
Good luck.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Finish Kit)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Tank nutpates-SOLVED! |
Thanks guys I finally figured it out. Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | tank attach angle specs. |
Is there a hidden place in DWG's or plans that gives me dimensions of the
tank attach angle other than the one pic. in the DWG's? I see the 1 inch
radius and total specs but the distance from the top (radius) to the base and
the radius on both sides near the base is not clear to diss hillbilly. Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Hodgson" <bob(at)hodgson252.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | RV-3 Type I wing mod |
> Several listers have written to me stating that there is indeed a CN-2-1
> modification out that is intended for the earlier "type I" RV-3 spars (the
> ones using 1/8" x 1 1/4' stock). My last correspondence from Vans on this
> topic was in August and October of 1996 and which stated the prospects for
a
> type I spar mod were poor.
Jim,
I've looked up the correspondence you refer to, and as I read it:
The letter of Aug 22, 1996 says the fix for Type II spars is designed and
about to be static tested, but they were still working on Type I.
Letter of Oct 8, 1996 says Type II fix now tested OK, and to be issued as
CN-2-II. Also a note that 1050 lbs plus wing fuel is definite limit for
aerobatics.
Letter of Jan 20, 1997 (which I don't think you have) says testing of mod
for Type I wings has been successful, and will be issued as CN-2-I. (Plus
same warning about overweight operation as before).
Also the paperwork which came with the mod kit says:
" . . . RV-3 wing spars modified to conform to CN-2-I, and which have been
built to aircraft standards, of aircraft quality materials, will permit
aerobatic flight at or below flying weights of 1050 lbs gross (1050 lbs plus
wing fuel) . . ."
A call to Van's should put your mind at rest - and they'll send you the mod
kit for nothing !
Bob H (UK)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: tank attach angle specs. |
>
>Is there a hidden place in DWG's or plans that gives me dimensions of the
>tank attach angle other than the one pic. in the DWG's? I see the 1 inch
>radius and total specs but the distance from the top (radius) to the base and
>the radius on both sides near the base is not clear to diss hillbilly. Bob
>
Which model RV?
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing wheels and brakes)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Early observations: Lightspeed ignition install |
Howdy folks,
I've put a couple hours on my RV8 (O-360/Sensenich 83") since installing a
Lightspeed Plasma II ignition in place of the right magneto. The
installation went very well, and is very easy indeed. I had to modify the
method in which the coils are attached to the supplied angle bracket so that
they would clear the spine of the crankcase. No big deal, just had to
insert a few washers and use two, slightly longer AN-3 bolts. Pulling the
magneto drive gear from the old Bendix mag and placing it on the sensor
module drive shaft was simple as well. An el cheapo bearing puller from
Harbor Freight did the job nicely. Once I had two magneto mounting clamps
(THANKS a bunch, Randy Pflanzer!), mounting the sensor module was a snap. I
placed the black box on the back side of the firewall, inside the forward
baggage hold and just slightly left of the baggage door hingeline. I
disconnected the P-lead wire from the right toggle switch and used it
instead to switch power to the unit. So, I now start the engine on the right
switch, and bring the remaining left mag online once the engine
starts...which is quick and smooth. There isn't nearly as much shaking and
wobbling around with the electronic sparking away.
In flight operations, at all power settings from low to high cruise power,
the mag makes little rpm difference whether on or off. Keeping the mag
firing seems to ever so slightly boost rpm, but my tach doesn't show
anything measurable. It's something that can be heard though....I
think....hard to say for sure. During runup, switching the Plasma off
reduces engine speed 100 rpm. Switching the mag off drops only 10 or 15 rpm
with the Plasma on. The mag does help light the fires for sure, but not by
much. High altitude cruise feels exactly the same. I haven't noted any
speed increase or anything noteworthy in the performance regime. The first
takeoff did seem pretty energetic. Of course, I had half tanks, no bags and
just me aboard. RV's climb nicely. Oh yeah, you betcha. Fuel consumption
hasn't been checked yet. So far, I'm pleased with the unit. A high energy
ignition system with only one moving part and fully automatic spark advance
for just over $700 is a pretty cool deal. Beats spending the same bucks to
swap out both Bendix mags for new Slicks with the same level of Neanderthal
technology. Oh, and getting rid of four, $20 aircraft plugs for automotive
plugs reduces the long term operating costs even more. Gotta love that.
Clean plugs? Why bother? Buy new ones!
Oh, the EAA's "Aluminum Overcast" B-17 will be at AEG next week. I feel the
need to don my genuine AAF Crush cap and fly high cover. "Boeing B-17....RV
Niner Four Bravo Delta has top cover. Have a nice flight". :)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Tech counselor card just received. Please hold your applause. ;)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: tank attach angle specs. |
6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: tank attach angle specs. |
I went ahead and trimmed the portion of the attach angle so that it fits snug
up into the tip of the rib and have it 2 inches from the tip of the rib to
the rear ot the angle. I noticed in drawings that there are two radius flares
on each side slightly above the base of the angle. I had to come a little
lower in order for rivets to come though ribs. I did not get into the base
but is not exactly like plans. Anyone see any structural type problems here?
Thanks, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: tank attach angle specs. |
PROBLEM SOLVED! Sorry guys, I guess I need to take my time more. Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AvTek Pulsar Wigwag system |
| From: | Marvin C Scott <mscott7545(at)juno.com> |
Ronald I have the AVtek Pulsar light system in my 182 for the last 8
years. It was a simple install . With no Radio noise. I'm very happy with
it. I will Install another in My RV4 when completed. Marv Scott RV4
fuselage in jig Tacoma
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SSPRING83(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List Digest: |
Hi Folks,
Does any one know of a good remote automotive oil
filter set up for an RV4? And does it make a difference if the oil goes thru
the filter BEFORE it goes thru the cooler or AFTER? Have been looking for a
way to mount the filter on the firewall next to the cooler as there is,nt the
room to mount it on the the accessorie case on the engine. Any tips would be
appreciated............ Thanks, George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Huft" <iflygood(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List Digest: |
How about an aircraft one? www.airwolf.com
>From: SSPRING83(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: RV4-List Digest:
>Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 08:49:39 EST
>
>
> Hi Folks,
> Does any one know of a good remote automotive
>oil
>filter set up for an RV4? And does it make a difference if the oil goes
>thru
>the filter BEFORE it goes thru the cooler or AFTER? Have been looking for
>a
>way to mount the filter on the firewall next to the cooler as there is,nt
>the
>room to mount it on the the accessorie case on the engine. Any tips would
>be
>appreciated............ Thanks, George
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
Fellow Listers:
A friend who is finishing his RV-4 asked me to post this: He is about to
start work on the empennage fairing. Have any of you found the need to
re-adjust the angle of incidence of the HS after test flying which would
thus require a new fairing to be built. He intends to fly his airplane
unpainted and thought to avoid making two of these fairings (if adjustments
were needed) that he might make a quick and dirty example and speed tape it
on or something like that for the test phase.
Any thoughts.
Doug
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fairings again |
In a message dated 3/11/01 7:09:21 AM Pacific Standard Time,
doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com writes:
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> A friend who is finishing his RV-4 asked me to post this: He is about to
> start work on the empennage fairing. Have any of you found the need to
> re-adjust the angle of incidence of the HS after test flying which would
> thus require a new fairing to be built. He intends to fly his airplane
> unpainted and thought to avoid making two of these fairings (if adjustments
> were needed) that he might make a quick and dirty example and speed tape it
> on or something like that for the test phase.
>
> Any thoughts.
>
> Doug
>
Yes Doug, I did that, Had to re shim the front horizontal spar, then I
made the fairing to fit.
Fred LaForge RV-4 180 CS EAA tech counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Intercom Kit? |
Hi Bill,
Jim Weir is the man! You can contact him at:
http://www.rst-engr.com/
He is a frequent contributor of articles to Kitplanes Magazine and will
answer questions about electronics and avionics posted on
rec.aviation.homebuilt.
Dave Burton
RV6A, wings
Seattle area
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mdelano" <mdelano(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vetterman exhaust question |
Why?
Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> I have a question you racing gurus might know the answer to: (are ya listenin
> Tannerman?) I buffed my stainless exhaust pipes so they are shiny, is there
> anything a guy can put on them to keep them shiny?
> Thanks,
> Kevin -9A
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Hagen" <chagen(at)hagenrealestate.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tank baffle rib question |
Bob,
I hope it is ok. I did the same thing. get good coverage on the proseal and
keep moving.
CH
RV-6A
Wings (just finishing tanks)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 5:23 PM
Subject: RV-List: tank baffle rib question
>
> In viewing Mike Nellis tank construction I see I did the same as he, in
that
> I drilled both end ribs with 1/8 holes and 8 holes instead of 11. Can
anyone
> see any reason at all that I cannot proceed by using universal 1/8 rivets
for
> these two ribs???
> Thanks Gents, Bob in Ark
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: [rv8list] Intercom Kit? |
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone used the RST intercom kit?
>
> http://www.rst-engr.com
>
> -Bill
I have (or rather, my wife now has) had one of their kit
headsets for about 10 years. The David Clarks stay in the
closet. I also built one of the intercoms for a friend. They
make good, simple, reliable stuff.
There should be more info in the archives.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles L. Cotton" <charles(at)cottonfamily.com> |
| Subject: | Which fuel sending unit? |
I am ordering my RV-9A empennage kit this week and will probably order the
wing kit at the same time. From everything I've read about the RV-9A,
including posts to this list, it looks like I'll be finished with the tail
kit before the 10-12 week delivery time for the wings.
At this point, I plan to use the Vision Microsystems VM 1000 as well as
their fuel gauges. Van's order form has an optional capacitive fuel
sending units, but indicates they are for use only with the EI FL-2C
gauges. I take it I don't need/want this sending unit, but I would like to
verify this before the order goes out. Is there a common or preferred
sending unit?
Thanks,
Chas.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tank nutplates |
In a message dated 3/10/01 12:15:04 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< When do I drill up to #19 size holes for the nutplates? >>
If I remember correctly I did it after the tanks were assembled and the
sealant was cured. I put the tanks back on the wings and match drilled for
the nut plates (which by the way install on the spar flange, not on the tank
skin). I was pleased with the fit I got doing it this way.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Glover" <wirraway2(at)bravo.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: AvTek Pulsar Wigwag system |
<<< I visited Avtek's booth at the Northwest
Aviation Expo last week and his
> system sounds like a good one.
>
> Has anyone had any experience with, or knowledge
of this system. I am
> looking for an installation for my RV-6.>>>
Hi Ron,
I have one of Bob Hann's wig wag units and I like
it very much, because of the built in reduncy
features.
The unit is solid state and compact in size. The
wig wag cycle rate is 60/min which is slower than
the Star unit I had in the RV4 (approx 100/min),
which allows the L/Light filiment to come up to
full power during each cycle.
I have both L/lights wired and fused seperately,
and if the the wig wag fails at any time, you have
one L/Light always available. Switches..... one
switch to operate both L/lights in wig wag mode
and seperate switches to operate each
L/Light........both L/Lights ON or one L/Light,
for taxi.......both lights are set for straight
ahead. L/Lights are Duckworth in the wing, located
in the outer bay, fitted as per the plans.
Once flight testing is complete, I plan on doing
some comparative testing, 4 vs 6A (Star and Haan
wig wag) fast vs slow, whelan strobes vs wig wags,
in varying light conditions. Very little hard data
is available, so that people can make and
"informed" decision.
Cheers and take care,
Ken Glover Hunter Valley RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: EAA tech counselor, Seattle |
In a message dated 3/11/2001 10:34:51 AM Pacific Standard Time,
tcwatson(at)seanet.com writes:
<< Can anyone tell me who would be an EAA Tech Couselor with RV experience in
the Seattle area? >>
Check to local Seatte EAA web site - they have a list (and photos!) of
several inspectors. I am sorry to hear that John has cut back. He inspected
the emp. on my RV9 - very nice man!
Kim Nicholas
Seattle area
RV9 wings. (the tanks are done - YAY!!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: [rv8list] Intercom Kit? |
Tom Barnes wrote:
>
>
> Bill
> I have one of these intercoms and find it a very good unit. I get the most
> value when I rent Cessna 140's without much electronics.
> One drawback that I can see is that you may forget to turn it off. This
> allows the backup 9v battery to discharge.
> If you order one, ask Jim Wier if there is a mod you can make in order to
> connect the power only when a headset is plugged in. If so, I would like to
> hear the answer.
>
> Tom Barnes -6 electrical stuff
Tom,
Try a local well-stocked electronic supply house (not the
Shack for this one) who sells Switchcraft or similar quality
connectors. Ask them to let you look through their master
catalog & find the 1/4" phone jacks. You need one with an
extra pair of switched contacts which are electrically
isolated from the phone jack terminals. What you *don't*
want is a 'normalized' jack. It will look similar at first
glance. Try to get some help interpreting the diagrams. A
lot of intercoms use this jack as the only power switch.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
Hi gang,
My finished RV-4 has no built in map/junk pockets on either side. My
attempt to attach fabric map pocket bags with velcro strips doesn't seem
to work well ( they keep falling off). The glue on the velcro does not
adhere to the interior epoxy paint... especially in hot weather. I don't
want to rivet through a nice paint job. Any Ideas??
Louis
Louis I. Willig
larywil(at)home.com
RV-4, N180PF, 70 hrs. and climbing fast
I0-360, Hartzell C/S
(610) 668-4964
Penn Valley, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis /Fran Flamini" <flamini2(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 N196SM air to air SW of Chicago 3-11-01 |
Mike and Beth we missed you for breakfast at Marshall Co in Lacon, IL,
see the pics of Mark's RV-6 at pictures(at)matronics.com Dennis in
Chicago, RV-10
Dennis and Fran
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl Fortner <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Re: RV4-List Digest: |
I have a screwon adapter on my O-320 and there is about 2 1/2 inches clearance
between the end of filter and firewall.
Earl RV4
SSPRING83(at)aol.com wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: SSPRING83(at)aol.com
>
> Hi Folks,
> Does any one know of a good remote automotive oil
> filter set up for an RV4? And does it make a difference if the oil goes thru
> the filter BEFORE it goes thru the cooler or AFTER? Have been looking for a
> way to mount the filter on the firewall next to the cooler as there is,nt the
> room to mount it on the the accessorie case on the engine. Any tips would be
> appreciated............ Thanks, George
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
I flew in another RV6 today and noticed that this ship had velcro pockets on
the front edge of the seats below your legs. Maybe that would be a good
place?
Marty in Brentwood TN.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Louis Willig" <larywil(at)home.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2001 5:35 PM
Subject: RV-List: Stick um up
>
> Hi gang,
>
> My finished RV-4 has no built in map/junk pockets on either side. My
> attempt to attach fabric map pocket bags with velcro strips doesn't seem
> to work well ( they keep falling off). The glue on the velcro does not
> adhere to the interior epoxy paint... especially in hot weather. I don't
> want to rivet through a nice paint job. Any Ideas??
>
> Louis
>
> Louis I. Willig
> larywil(at)home.com
> RV-4, N180PF, 70 hrs. and climbing fast
> I0-360, Hartzell C/S
> (610) 668-4964
> Penn Valley, PA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
Here's a neat idea for a map holder. One of my RV-6 buddies went down to
the local Office Depot and bought a couple clipboards with a very low
profile chrome wire clip at the top. He removed the clip from the board
part of it and attached it to the bottom flange of the instrument panel
right in front of him. He can then hold his charts in place (they are
displayed neatly above his knees) and you cannot see the clips at all. I'm
sure you could do the same on the RV-4. This doesn't take the place of a
map "pocket", but it does hold your charts in place and in view.
Doug Weiler
>
> My finished RV-4 has no built in map/junk pockets on either side. My
> attempt to attach fabric map pocket bags with velcro strips doesn't seem
> to work well ( they keep falling off). The glue on the velcro does not
> adhere to the interior epoxy paint... especially in hot weather. I don't
> want to rivet through a nice paint job. Any Ideas??
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
Remove the paint where you will attach the velcro, and put some epoxy on the
velcro.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Louis Willig" <larywil(at)home.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2001 4:35 PM
Subject: RV-List: Stick um up
>
> Hi gang,
>
> My finished RV-4 has no built in map/junk pockets on either side. My
> attempt to attach fabric map pocket bags with velcro strips doesn't seem
> to work well ( they keep falling off). The glue on the velcro does not
> adhere to the interior epoxy paint... especially in hot weather. I don't
> want to rivet through a nice paint job. Any Ideas??
>
> Louis
>
> Louis I. Willig
> larywil(at)home.com
> RV-4, N180PF, 70 hrs. and climbing fast
> I0-360, Hartzell C/S
> (610) 668-4964
> Penn Valley, PA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 N196SM air to air SW of Chicago 3-11-01 |
Beth and I missed flying with you guys even more. We had in laws staying
over and couldn't get rid of them fast enough. It must have been a great
day. I look forward to the recap. I'll check out the pictures.
Mike Nellis
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
RV-6 N699BM (res) Gooping up the tanks
Plainfield, IL (LOT)
http://bmnellis.com
>
> Mike and Beth we missed you for breakfast at Marshall Co in Lacon, IL,
> see the pics of Mark's RV-6 at pictures(at)matronics.com Dennis in
> Chicago, RV-10
> Dennis and Fran
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
Sheet metal screws through "U" shaped Tinnerman fasteners (NAS 395) would
work nice. You've still got to drill the holes though.
Mike Nellis
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
RV-6 N699BM (res) Gooping up the tanks
Plainfield, IL (LOT)
http://bmnellis.com
>
> Hi gang,
>
> My finished RV-4 has no built in map/junk pockets on either side. My
> attempt to attach fabric map pocket bags with velcro strips doesn't seem
> to work well ( they keep falling off). The glue on the velcro does not
> adhere to the interior epoxy paint... especially in hot weather. I don't
> want to rivet through a nice paint job. Any Ideas??
>
> Louis
>
> Louis I. Willig
> larywil(at)home.com
> RV-4, N180PF, 70 hrs. and climbing fast
> I0-360, Hartzell C/S
> (610) 668-4964
> Penn Valley, PA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I have an oil leak on one of my cylinders that I would like some advice on
from some of you engine Gurus out there in RV land. This is an O320 and it is
an internal leak. The exhaust track downstream of the exhaust valve is coated
with wet oil. The cavity that the gasses go into after they leave the exhaust
valve as well an the inside of the exhaust pipe are wet. The compression is
good at 76/80. I am thinking that this has to be one of three things: Bad oil
control ring, oil is being sucked into the cylinder past the intake valve, or
oil is being sucked into the cylinder past the exhaust valve. The latter two
would mean what? A bad valve guide? Has anyone seen this before? The engine
has 430 hrs since I overhauled it and the other cylinders are allright. I am
sure that I will have to remove the cylinder to get to the bottom of this
problem. Just wondering if anyone has thoughts on this. BTW, what prompted me
to start looking was a persistent oil leak on this cylinder at the exhault
pipe fitting that has been there since I overhauled the engine. I removed the
cylinder recently, glass beaded it and examined it for cracks--none found.
Thanks in advance,
John Henley, N6LD, 430 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis /Fran Flamini" <flamini2(at)home.com> (by way of Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>) |
| Subject: | RV-6 N196SM air to air SW of Chicago 3-11-01 |
ftp://ftp.matronics.com/pub/Public/flamini(at)home.com/p3110002.jpg
ftp://ftp.matronics.com/pub/Public/flamini(at)home.com/p3110004.jpg
Dennis and Fran
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | C/S Spinner fitting |
I am fitting the rear spinner bulkhead onto the back of my Hartzell CS prop.
I have read the archives and am still a bit confused. When I lay the
bulkhead on the back of the prop, it hits the prop casing before it hits the
1/4" S-604 spacers. I am assuming that I just file the bulkhead so that it
will rest on the S-604's. This, however, may not be entirely correct. From
the archives, I gather that I want 1/8" clearance between the prop blades at
full coarse and the bulkhead. This may require additional washers on top of
the S-604's. My prop is still in the box and I would like to be able to
make this determination prior to putting the prop on the plane. This may
not be possible as I don't know if I can cycle the prop while it sits in the
box.
Suggestions?
Ross Mickey
O360 C/S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Rivet floor skin or wait. |
> To those 6 builders that have completed their fuselage..
> should I rivet the floor skin (F672) with side skins(F670)
> and be done with it??????
>
> OR
> rivet side skins on and cloche bottom skin on till later
> ones that I may remove floor skin for access??
> Thanks
> John McMahon
Never rivet anything until you simply can't go forward without doing so.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Re: RV4-List Digest: |
I use a standard Lycoming adapter on my -4 with an
0-320 dash nothing/CH48110 filter and conical mounts.
Clearance is 5 inches. Make sure to seat the
vernatherm to the adapter by lapping or machining to
prevent oil leakage past the vernatherm and less
efficient cooling.
Rob Ray
N557RR
--- Earl Fortner wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: Earl Fortner
>
>
> I have a screwon adapter on my O-320 and there is
> about 2 1/2 inches clearance
> between the end of filter and firewall.
> Earl RV4
>
> SSPRING83(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: SSPRING83(at)aol.com
> >
> > Hi Folks,
> > Does any one know of a
> good remote automotive oil
> > filter set up for an RV4? And does it make a
> difference if the oil goes thru
> > the filter BEFORE it goes thru the cooler or
> AFTER? Have been looking for a
> > way to mount the filter on the firewall next to
> the cooler as there is,nt the
> > room to mount it on the the accessorie case on the
> engine. Any tips would be
> > appreciated............ Thanks, George
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
March 03, 2001 - March 11, 2001
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ki