RV-Archive.digest.vol-kp
April 20, 2001 - April 26, 2001
Johnny,
For everyone's sake on the list, there is only one specific situation that can
cause me to go aft CG and I have the airplane placarded for that situation.
If I have both pilot and passenger on the wrong side of 240, then the baggage
compartment is limited to 30 lbs and fuel is limited to 24 gallons.
While it is possible to load more baggage, to do so would exceed my certificated
gross weight of 1725 lbs and would cause an aft CG condition if you flew it
down to 5 gallons of fuel.
I have this situation described in my Pilot Operating Handbook and I have a
sample Weight and Balance calculation for it there as well.
Regardless of your bubba factor, but expecially if you are a bubba (I am), it
is extremely important to understand the situations that might lead to aft or
forward CG situations and appropriately placard for those. It is easy to get
complacent once you've been flying the same airplane for awhile. On my recent
Florida trip, I carefully weighed each bag even though my son is < 160 and I
knew I would not run into aft CG or gross weight issues.
Thanks for the advice Johnny, but I'm already swinging a Sensenich metal prop.
My only option is to get as CS prop, but I think I'll save that for my RV-7A.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (144 hours)
>Randy, seriously, I would put something heavy up front, maybe a harmonic
>balancer (I assume you have a wood prop??) or something. As Finn pointed
>out, you need to be within the CG envelope at flameout... you and Bubba will
>be in deep dodo if the fog rolls in and you need to burn below 10 gallons to
>get to an alternate, etc etc...
>
>Johnny Johnson
>49MM RV-3 flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
Vans tested a three blade on the -9A, then put a 2-blade on for a comparison.
Three weeks ago I noticed they put the 3-blade back on it for the trip to SNF
Kevin -9A
> I am currently rebuilding an RV6A damaged in a hard landing. Has
> anyone experience with 3 blade props vs 2 blades. Performance?????
> Vibration????? There seems to be a considerable amount of controversy
> when using 3 blades on Mooney's ???? Composite vs aluminum. To be used
> on a 0-360 C/S . Also if anyone has a constant speed prop for the above
> and is looking to sell???? Dick Jason
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "B. Hukari" <bhuk(at)gorge.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air/Oil seperator |
GRENIER(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Listers, I am thinking of installing an air-oil separator in my -4......
>
> Ray Grenier
>
> RV-4 the last and endless 90%
No answers, only more questions....sorry. Most of the SuperCubs around here
have a small tube welded at an angle into the exhaust pipe, with the oil
breather hose attached. The idea, obviously, being that any oil will be burned
in the exhaust stream before attaching itself to the belly. Just wondering if
any of ya'll have tried this on a RV?
Bruce Huk.
RV-4 ( the same last and endless.....)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
I'm not positive but I got the impression that they did that for crowd
appeal. (The MT prop has the "look")
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 8:41 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Props???
Vans tested a three blade on the -9A, then put a 2-blade on for a
comparison.
Three weeks ago I noticed they put the 3-blade back on it for the trip to
SNF
Kevin -9A
> I am currently rebuilding an RV6A damaged in a hard landing. Has
> anyone experience with 3 blade props vs 2 blades. Performance?????
> Vibration????? There seems to be a considerable amount of controversy
> when using 3 blades on Mooney's ???? Composite vs aluminum. To be used
> on a 0-360 C/S . Also if anyone has a constant speed prop for the above
> and is looking to sell???? Dick Jason
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Peltor Headset Question (not building related) |
>A friend of mine who has Lightspeed 25XL ANR headsets flew with
>me not too long ago and he said that they were more comfortable
>than his Lightspeeds, and came close to being as quiet.
Right now, I'm using the Peltor 7004 headsets and was using Telex
Pro Air 2000 (?) headsets when I owned my Cheetah. While I was at
Sun-n-Fun, I finally tried out the Bose headsets during one of their
demonstrations. When the demo was done, I was asking my buddy
Pat Patterson if he liked them. He did. However, I didn't get much
out of the demonstration. I tried holding the cups away from my ear
and putting them back on just to see if there really was that much
difference. For the life of me, I didn't get much out of them. When I
got home, I tried Pat's Telex ANR headsets in my RV and came
away with the same conclusion. Except for maybe being a bit lighter
headset with less squeeze on the ears, I got nothing to brag about
from either of them. I told Pat I'd rather have my old Telex or my
Peltors than to pay the extra money for the ANRs. I've read a lot
about ANRs and have finally gotten to try them. I just don't see what
the big deal is. Of course, I know the theory; but, I don't see the
results I expected. Am I missing something? Was I expecting too
much from headsets that cost a lot more than a good set of passive
headsets? Am I by myself on this?
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air/Oil seperator |
Ray,
Some time ago I installed an STC'd Walker oil separator in my 182 that had a
wet vacuum system. The return line was routed to the valve cover nearest
the separator. This allows the oil to drain down the pushrod tubes along
with the regular oil supply to the rockers. All of the required fittings
were supplied with the kit. If memory serves, it was a 3/8" aluminum line.
John Warren
RV-6Q N645W
LaCenter WA
----- Original Message -----
From: <GRENIER(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 5:29 AM
Subject: RV-List: Air/Oil seperator
>
> Listers, I am thinking of installing an air-oil separator in my -4. The
> device I have has three inputs/outputs. One is used to connect to the
engine
> breather port on the engine ( 360 A1A ), there is a small hose fitting for
> the water drain, and a third that I assume is to return the recovered oil
to
> the engine. My question is where to plumb the oil return line? Any
answers?
> Thanks.
>
> Ray Grenier
>
> RV-4 the last and endless 90%
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Air/Oil seperator |
In a message dated 4/20/01 5:32:50 AM Pacific Daylight Time, GRENIER(at)AOL.COM
writes:
>
> Listers, I am thinking of installing an air-oil separator in my -4. The
> device I have has three inputs/outputs. One is used to connect to the
> engine
> breather port on the engine ( 360 A1A ), there is a small hose fitting for
> the water drain, and a third that I assume is to return the recovered oil
> to
> the engine. My question is where to plumb the oil return line? Any
> answers?
> Thanks.
>
> Ray Grenier
>
> RV-4 the last and endless 90%
>
>
>
water drain? you kind of lost me there, take a look at how the Christen
Oil/Air Seporator (Inverted oil system) hooks up there should be some
simularities there. There is a picture of it in the Aircraft Spruce Catolog.
On my Christen Inverted Oil System the Oil/Air Seporator the connections are
as follows:
1. Top of the seporator: is the breather line from the motor.
2. Bottom of the seporator: is the oil return to the engine sump
3. Side outlet: is the breather line
Good Luck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Peltor Headset Question (not building related) |
Jim Sears wrote:
>
>
> I've read a lot
> about ANRs and have finally gotten to try them. I just don't see what
> the big deal is. Of course, I know the theory; but, I don't see the
> results I expected. Am I missing something? Was I expecting too
> much from headsets that cost a lot more than a good set of passive
> headsets? Am I by myself on this?
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS
>
No your not by yourself on this Jim, that was the same reaction I had also.
While instructing and doing flight reviews I have had the opportunity to try
many different brands and styles of headsets with and without ANR. I still
come back to my Peltor 7004's for comfort and outside sound blocking.
It sounds like the 7006 my be even better than the 7004. I cannot understand
why anyone would want to wear DCs for very long they feel like they are
clamping your head in a vise. IMO
Jerry Springer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Peltor Headset Question (not building related) |
Maybe there is nothing left for the ANR to protect; HUH!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 11:42 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Peltor Headset Question (not building related)
>
> Jim Sears wrote:
> >
> >
> > I've read a lot
> > about ANRs and have finally gotten to try them. I just don't see what
> > the big deal is. Of course, I know the theory; but, I don't see the
> > results I expected. Am I missing something? Was I expecting too
> > much from headsets that cost a lot more than a good set of passive
> > headsets? Am I by myself on this?
> >
> > Jim Sears in KY
> > RV-6A N198JS
> >
>
> No your not by yourself on this Jim, that was the same reaction I had
also.
> While instructing and doing flight reviews I have had the opportunity to
try
> many different brands and styles of headsets with and without ANR. I still
> come back to my Peltor 7004's for comfort and outside sound blocking.
> It sounds like the 7006 my be even better than the 7004. I cannot
understand
> why anyone would want to wear DCs for very long they feel like they are
> clamping your head in a vise. IMO
>
> Jerry Springer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larygagnon(at)AOL.COM |
I got a good price from Pacific Coast on a GTX 327. They did require making
the harness to the encoder for a reasonable (95.00) cost. My SL 40 com radio
was the same price ($1295) from Vans as all of the major suppliers.
RV6 Finishing Kit N6LG (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank & Marilyn Hutchins" <rvflyers(at)frontier.net> |
Would you be related to Ernier Fortner of So. Calif. probably retired from
SCE?
----- Original Message -----
From: EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 04, 1999 11:16 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Santa
>
> It sure would be nice if Santa came up with a finish kit video for the
> RV-4 but I doubt if his elves will ever find the time.
>
> OrndorffG(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > Yes there is a finish kit video - it was done on an -8, but mostly
everything
> > is the same. If you have questions, give us a call.
> >
> > And, by the way, the man with the builder assist shop who has built and
> > helped with numerous RVs also got tools for XMAS - a socket light and a
snake
> > driver and clench wrenches. Guess what - you never have enough tools!
> >
> > Becki Orndorff
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Peltor Headset Question (not building related) |
Comfort aside, I have the DC 13.4's and recently had a chance to try out
some DC ANR headsets in my Stinson. There was no comparison between the
two. Towards the end of the flight I put the non ANR's back on and couldn't
believe the difference! Maybe hearing a difference has to do with overall
hearing sensitivity for any given individual. At OSH this past summer I
tried out the Bose demo as well and could tell a big difference. In my
case, that demo was backed up during my tryout of the ANR's in flight as
well.
Mike Nellis
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
RV-6 N699BM (reserved)N
Plainfield, IL (LOT)
Building Flaps
http://bmnellis.com
> >
> > I've read a lot
> > about ANRs and have finally gotten to try them. I just don't see what
> > the big deal is. Of course, I know the theory; but, I don't see the
> > results I expected. Am I missing something? Was I expecting too
> > much from headsets that cost a lot more than a good set of passive
> > headsets? Am I by myself on this?
> >
> > Jim Sears in KY
> > RV-6A N198JS
> >
>
> No your not by yourself on this Jim, that was the same reaction I had
also.
> While instructing and doing flight reviews I have had the opportunity to
try
> many different brands and styles of headsets with and without ANR. I still
> come back to my Peltor 7004's for comfort and outside sound blocking.
> It sounds like the 7006 my be even better than the 7004. I cannot
understand
> why anyone would want to wear DCs for very long they feel like they are
> clamping your head in a vise. IMO
>
> Jerry Springer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
You should investigate the TBOs as well... for me (200 hp IO-360) the TBOs
were:
Hartzell- 2200 hours
MT 3 blade - 1800 hours
MT 2 blade - 600 hours
Which immediately removed the MT 2-blade from my choices. Also, it's
probably a lot harder to get the MT worked on.
Matthew
-8A fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Greg Tanner
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 8:49 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Props???
I'm not positive but I got the impression that they did that for crowd
appeal. (The MT prop has the "look")
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 8:41 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Props???
Vans tested a three blade on the -9A, then put a 2-blade on for a
comparison.
Three weeks ago I noticed they put the 3-blade back on it for the trip to
SNF
Kevin -9A
> I am currently rebuilding an RV6A damaged in a hard landing. Has
> anyone experience with 3 blade props vs 2 blades. Performance?????
> Vibration????? There seems to be a considerable amount of controversy
> when using 3 blades on Mooney's ???? Composite vs aluminum. To be used
> on a 0-360 C/S . Also if anyone has a constant speed prop for the above
> and is looking to sell???? Dick Jason
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Aileron Gap Seal |
Quick Question,
Want to avoid the pop-rivits on the top of the skin that hold the
gap seal to the wing skin. What is the best way to assemble without using
them? I am thinking of back riveting the gap seal to the skin and then
mounting the skin to the wing and then pull back the gap seal back a bit to
slide a bucking bar in to finish the last row of rivets. Then go back and
use the pop rivets underneath. Sound good.? Bad?? Other ideas?
Thanks,
Kurt in OKC
Building the Worlds Slowest Built Quick Build 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <DonH(at)axonn.com> |
At SNF, I talked to the pilot who flew the it there (sorry, I didn't catch
his name), and he didn't think he could tell any difference between the
Hartzell and the MT. He thought the only important difference was the
price, with the MT being much more expensive. But it did look cool.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Greg Tanner [mailto:gtanner(at)bendcable.com]
> Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 10:49 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Props???
>
>
>
> I'm not positive but I got the impression that they did that for crowd
> appeal. (The MT prop has the "look")
>
> Greg
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
> Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 8:41 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Props???
>
>
>
> Vans tested a three blade on the -9A, then put a 2-blade on for a
> comparison.
> Three weeks ago I noticed they put the 3-blade back on it for
> the trip to
> SNF
> Kevin -9A
>
> > I am currently rebuilding an RV6A damaged in a hard landing. Has
> > anyone experience with 3 blade props vs 2 blades. Performance?????
> > Vibration????? There seems to be a considerable amount of
> controversy
> > when using 3 blades on Mooney's ???? Composite vs
> aluminum. To be used
> > on a 0-360 C/S . Also if anyone has a constant speed prop
> for the above
> > and is looking to sell???? Dick Jason
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Prop Balancer |
Mike;
Good call. Dynamic balancing really works, even with
wood props. There are alot of prop shops with the
equipment and usually require about an hour with the
cowling off and two run-ups to 2200 to determine where
to put the washers on the spinner backplate.
The Harmonic "Dampener" does help too and gives the
wood prop a little more inertia.
Rob Ray
N557RR
--- Mike Plecenik wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Mike Plecenik"
>
>
> Actually, Mark sells a Harmonic Dampener - not a
> balancer. They're not the
> same and you should still have the prop balanced if
> you go this route.
>
>
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
>
> >
> > Jim;
> >
> > Grab a Sport Aviation Magazine and look in the
> > classified ads under Props. Look for Mark
> Landoll's
> > Harmonic balancers. They really work and add 12
> pounds
> > to the nose on -4's which is a plus.
> >
> > Rob Ray
> > N557RR
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | RST website location?? |
Listers,
I've lost my bookmark for Radio System Technologies web site (Jim Weir)
Could someone please send it to me??
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Everybody went to S & F except me! |
Steve;
I don't think Van would publically pick favorites of
the "litter", but he still owns a -4...and commutes to
work in it.
--- Steve Mullins wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Steve Mullins"
>
>
> Double AMEN to the flight characteristics and looks
> of the -4. I have only
> had mine for a few weeks (4 flight hours or so) and
> I can't wipe the silly
> grin from my face when thinking about, let alone
> actually flying, it!!!
>
> Steve Mullins, Ph.D.
> Associate Professor of Economics
> Drury University
> 417.889.5609 (home)
> 417.873.7299 (office)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "rob ray" <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 6:43 PM
> Subject: Re: Fw: RV4-List: Fw: RV-List: Everybody
> went to S & F except me!
>
>
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
>
> >
> > Chuck;
> >
> > Amen Brother. I guess the -4's sales sealed the
> deal
> > so to speak. Quick builds and matched drilling go
> to
> > the high sellers. Talking with the Van's folks at
> SNF,
> > it's easy to see the direction Van's is going,
> away
> > from jigs and drilling. I personally think the 7,8
> and
> > 9 and the future 10 are the new breed.
> > I agree, the RV4 is still the best looking and
> flying
> > of the bunch and I plan on keeping mine a long
> > time....
> >
> > Rob Ray
> > N557RR
> > --- Chuck Rabaut wrote:
> > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Chuck Rabaut"
> > >
> > >
> > > Rob,
> > >
> > > I'm glad you had fun and that's great to
> hear,
> > > but you should've
> > > reminded him that a Quick Build 4 is what's
> really
> > > needed (I mean I'm not
> > > complaining {well not at this moment} but God
> knows
> > > the 4 is way cool but
> > > God also knows you sure suffer trying to figure
> out
> > > how to get it together).
> > >
> > > Chuck
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
> > > To:
> > > Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 9:34 PM
> > > Subject: Re: RV4-List: Fw: RV-List: Everybody
> went
> > > to S & F except me!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Hi Chuck;
> > > >
> > > > Coming from a No-Cal'r who flew his RV4 to
> SNF,
> > > the
> > > > Dash Seven looked mighty nice, even if all you
> > > have to
> > > > do is dump a bucket of clecoes in the box,
> shake
> > > it
> > > > and an airplane pops out....Bottom line: RV's
> > > ruled,
> > > > others drooled.
> > > > The Cross country of two RV4's from NoCal out
> to
> > > > Lakeland was an adventure all it's own. 12
> hours
> > > of
> > > > flying and five fuel stops. I counted 38 RV's
> on
> > > the
> > > > grass Sunday plus the four in front of Van's
> tent
> > > and
> > > > Bruce Bohannons Tiger and -4. Alot more came
> and
> > > went
> > > > during the week. I even had a chance to visit
> > > with
> > > > the man himself for a casual chat on several
> > > subjects.
> > > > I asked him if he was going to discontinue the
> -4
> > > now
> > > > that the -8 was so popular. He responded with
> a
> > > > chuckle: If I did that, how would the Harmon
> > > Rocket
> > > > guys get parts...
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- Chuck Rabaut wrote:
> > > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Chuck
> Rabaut"
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Jim,
> > > > >
> > > > > You are oh so right!!!
> > > > >
> > > > > Chuck
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: Jim Bower <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
> > > > > > Anyhoo, that's why Van's makes RVs in so
> many
> > > > > flavors, right? At least we
> > > > > > have to study plans, measure, make jigs,
> > > measure,
> > > > > drill, measure, sweat,
> > > > > > measure, and curse to build our airplanes
> like
> > > > > real men do! (Instead of
> > > > > > those wussy -7 & -9 guys!)
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Jim
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > through
> > > > >
> > > > > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > > > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> > > > >
> > > > > Matronics!
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at
> great
> > > prices
> > > > http://auctions.yahoo.com/
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > through
> > >
> > > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> > >
> > > Matronics!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great
> prices
> > http://auctions.yahoo.com/
> >
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
>
=== message truncated ==
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "spenner" <spenner(at)olimpo.com.br> |
I am in need of a Carb for the O360, if you are upgrading to FI, I=B4ll
buy yours.
Contact of list e-mail or fone.
spenner(at)olimpo.com.br or in USA 619-2238444/2252300 with Marcos
Werner
RV-6A Engine
Brazil
DNA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh(at)qualcomm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air/Oil seperator |
I am building a F1 Rocket and I have purchased but haven't yet received a 6
into 1 exhaust system from Sky Dynamics. They offer an optional fitting at
the exhaust collector to connect the vent line. This allows any excess oil
to be burned off and not get on the belly of the airplane. The air/oil
separators do a great job but they are not perfect. Additionally, the
collector fitting creates a vacuum on the crank case that seems to help the
piston rings seat better, giving more horsepower and less oil loss. The
guys at Lycon like this concept. They say that the Nascar guys figured
this out and have a vacuum pump on-board to pull a very large vacuum on the
crankcase vent to really improve ring sealing. I'll see how it works when
the bird is flying.
scot
>
>
>GRENIER(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> >
> > Listers, I am thinking of installing an air-oil separator in my -4......
> >
> > Ray Grenier
> >
> > RV-4 the last and endless 90%
>
>No answers, only more questions....sorry. Most of the SuperCubs around here
>have a small tube welded at an angle into the exhaust pipe, with the oil
>breather hose attached. The idea, obviously, being that any oil will be
>burned
>in the exhaust stream before attaching itself to the belly. Just wondering if
>any of ya'll have tried this on a RV?
>
>Bruce Huk.
>RV-4 ( the same last and endless.....)
>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RST website location?? |
www.rst-engr.com/
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 1:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: RST website location??
>
> Listers,
> I've lost my bookmark for Radio System Technologies web site (Jim Weir)
> Could someone please send it to me??
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Gap Seal |
Kurt,
You need to be able to bend the top skin to rivet it onto the ribs, so do not
rivet gap seal on before that is done.
What I did was to rivet top skin on, then back rivet aileron gap seal on.
The gap seal is quite flexible, and depending on where you drilled the attach
holes, you should be able to get to the rivets.
You will need to support the gap seal on either side of the hole you are
riveting. What I did was make 4, 1" square .032 pieces, drill and dimple.
Then place these on the inside of the gap seal and cleco from the front
through the wing skin and gap seal (this is a two man operation).
I have a long back rivet set, but I think you should be able to do it with a
short one. I also have a spare 3X rivet gun, like a 2X better, so I put a
small flush rivet set in the gun and used that as a bucking bar (wing skin
side) - using a small round bucking surface you wont get any unsightly dings
on the top skin.
Once the gap seal was done I pop riveted the seal to the spar. Turned out
pretty well.
Take your time, you don't want to mess up that top skin.
Dave Burnham
6A Fuse 50%
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <DonH(at)axonn.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron Gap Seal |
I figured out that I could squeeze a bucking bar in to get the top row of
rivets, and it worked, but it was very hard to do. I was not pleased with
the results I got, and by the time I got done I had ruined the nice smooth
radius on the trailing edge. And the fit was still lousy.
When I did the second wing, I went with the pop rivets, and it went so
smoothly and easily and came out so well, I would never, never consider
trying to do it with solid rivets again. When I get the wings out of
storage for trial fit to the fuse, I am planning on drilling out the first
one and doing it all over again with the pop rivets.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM [mailto:KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM]
> Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 12:55 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Aileron Gap Seal
>
>
>
>
> Quick Question,
>
> Want to avoid the pop-rivits on the top of the skin
> that hold the
> gap seal to the wing skin. What is the best way to assemble
> without using
> them? I am thinking of back riveting the gap seal to the
> skin and then
> mounting the skin to the wing and then pull back the gap seal
> back a bit to
> slide a bucking bar in to finish the last row of rivets.
> Then go back and
> use the pop rivets underneath. Sound good.? Bad?? Other ideas?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kurt in OKC
> Building the Worlds Slowest Built Quick Build 6A
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | RST website location?? |
http://www.rst-engr.com/
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 12:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: RST website location??
Listers,
I've lost my bookmark for Radio System Technologies web site (Jim Weir)
Could someone please send it to me??
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Micah Froese" <mfroese(at)hotmail.com> |
RV-6 tail kit and tools for sale. Horizontal stabilizer started on, rest of
the parts untouched. All top of the line tools including pneumatic squeezer.
E-mail me off list if interested in part or whole. I can email back an Excel
spreadsheet of everything I have including the price paid.
Micah Froese
(803) 755-7845
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jeffrey davis <jeffreymbdavis(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | looking for tools |
Hi all:
I'm planning on building either -6A or -7A, first time
builder in San Diego, California.
Looking for a complete set of building tools.
Thanks for any info!
Jeffrey Davis
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | pneumatic squeezer |
Does anybody have any experience using the alligator type squeezer for
dimpling? Does the plyer type action cause any problems with bring the dies
together?
Greg Tanner
RV-9A WINGS
O-320 D1A N80BR RESERVED
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
Hello,
how much for the pneumatic squeezer?
lucky
>From: "Micah Froese" <mfroese(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: for sale
>Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 18:58:58
>
>
>RV-6 tail kit and tools for sale. Horizontal stabilizer started on, rest of
>the parts untouched. All top of the line tools including pneumatic
>squeezer.
>E-mail me off list if interested in part or whole. I can email back an
>Excel
>spreadsheet of everything I have including the price paid.
>
>Micah Froese
>(803) 755-7845
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Gap Seal |
Hi Kurt,
If I remember correctly, I installed the gap seal as follows.
with the top skin riveted on I fitted then drilled the gap seal to the top
wing skin first. I then put cleacos into the all the wing skin holes. Next,
using the footed bucking bar Avery Catalog #620 I started from the center
out riveted the seal to the wing skin. Then I checked the fit and the shop
heads and installed the pop rivets into the bottom of the rear spar.
this was one of the few times that I found the #620 bucking bar truly
useful, bless it's little pointy head. It paid for it's keep.
At first I thought that using the #620 in this way might over stress the
wing skin or the gap seal and might leave the area distorted looking. The
finished job looks great and gets complements.
Hope it Helps,
Jim in kelowna - fitting engine baffles and cowlings.
----- Original Message -----
From: <KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM>
Subject: RV-List: Aileron Gap Seal
> Quick Question,
I Want to avoid the pop-rivits on the top of the skin that hold the gap seal
to the wing skin. What is the best way to assemble without using them? <
snip > Other ideas?
Thanks,
Kurt in OKC
Building the Worlds Slowest Built Quick Build 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Peltor Headset Question (not building related) |
I have an old pair of DC10-40s with the Headsets Inc ANR conversion kit. I
also have a pair of DC 10-13XL ANR and I would sell the 10-13XL in a
heartbeat to anyone who would offer me anything close to what I paid for
them, They are brand new cause I complained to DC and they sent me a brand
new pair, These are no better than the ones I sent back.
The Headsets Inc conversion works GREAT!!! Even in the B-25 which most
believe is the loudest of all the WWII airplanes they can handle the noise
at T/O power, Even the Bose won't take that. At extremely high noise levels
ANR headsets can be over powered and start to make noise instead of cancel
it. (ie B-25 at Take-off Power)
I have a pair of Lightspeed 15K for my wife and they cancel noise very well,
but in the RV-4 the mic picks up so much noise that the intercom is barely
useable. In normal GA airplanes they work great and they don't clamp your
head at all.
Of all the headsets I have ever used, David Clark wins the mic war hands
down! The M-4 mic on the old 10-40 was the best for a high noise
environment. The new M-7 mic on the new sets is very good too, but picks up
more noise than the M-4. (a DC engineer at OSH admitted this to me).
I have also used the Peltors and was pretty happy with them, but I never
felt they were as durable as the DC's.
I have never used any of the knock off DC look-a-likes that were
satisfactory. Most of them have cheap cords and the first time it gets
pulled on or tripped over you will have an intermittent open in your
headset.
A final thing that most people don't know about the DC 10-30 headset. There
is a hole in the front of the mic that has a pot in it to adjust the output
of your mic. This is a really nice feature so you can balance your mic to
the other mics in the airplane you are flying. Also in a high noise
airplane you can turn the gain way down and talk louder to lower the noise
level on the intercom or radio.
Sorry for the long post, but I tire of people showing up to fly a million
dollar noisy airplane with a $69 headset that blows out your eardrums, or
worse, doesn't work. You just break ground, call "gear up" and the co-pilot
can not hear you. Then instead of flying the airplane using previously
briefed hand signals, turns the intercom full up and starts yelling, "I
can't hear! I can't hear!!!!.
Nothing personal, but if the shoe fits.....
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Induction Systems |
Hi all...
Was wonder what people think of using a NACA vent for feeding the carburetor
vs. the standard snorkel configuration vs. the induction system used by the
IO360 vs. using ambient air from inside the cowl?
Thanks...
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CiminoJim" <CiminoJim(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: looking for tools |
Jeffery,
J.J. Banks has all kinds of tools for sale, give him a try. J.J. Banks
E-mail Address(es):
tinmanjj(at)ptdprolog.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "jeffrey davis" <jeffreymbdavis(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 3:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: looking for tools
>
> Hi all:
>
> I'm planning on building either -6A or -7A, first time
> builder in San Diego, California.
>
> Looking for a complete set of building tools.
>
> Thanks for any info!
> Jeffrey Davis
>
>
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Peltor Headset Question (not building related) |
You old guys have been flying in open cockpits for too long! ;>)
On my Lightspeed 25XLs, all I have to do is push the button on the battery
case to turn them off and turn them into regular headsets. The difference
is astounding. If the batteries were dead in my headset, I wouldn't fly.
Period.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (144 hours)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com>
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 11:36 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Peltor Headset Question (not building related)
>
> >A friend of mine who has Lightspeed 25XL ANR headsets flew with
> >me not too long ago and he said that they were more comfortable
> >than his Lightspeeds, and came close to being as quiet.
>
> Right now, I'm using the Peltor 7004 headsets and was using Telex
> Pro Air 2000 (?) headsets when I owned my Cheetah. While I was at
> Sun-n-Fun, I finally tried out the Bose headsets during one of their
> demonstrations. When the demo was done, I was asking my buddy
> Pat Patterson if he liked them. He did. However, I didn't get much
> out of the demonstration. I tried holding the cups away from my ear
> and putting them back on just to see if there really was that much
> difference. For the life of me, I didn't get much out of them. When I
> got home, I tried Pat's Telex ANR headsets in my RV and came
> away with the same conclusion. Except for maybe being a bit lighter
> headset with less squeeze on the ears, I got nothing to brag about
> from either of them. I told Pat I'd rather have my old Telex or my
> Peltors than to pay the extra money for the ANRs. I've read a lot
> about ANRs and have finally gotten to try them. I just don't see what
> the big deal is. Of course, I know the theory; but, I don't see the
> results I expected. Am I missing something? Was I expecting too
> much from headsets that cost a lot more than a good set of passive
> headsets? Am I by myself on this?
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pneumatic squeezer |
Greg,
Are you talking about the vise grip pliers with a dimple die welded on?
If so, they work great. They are welded on very precisely so that they line
up perfectly when closed with piece of aluminum between the two dies.
Regards,
Cliff
RV9 (wings, fuel tanks)
www.barefootpilot.com
>
> Does anybody have any experience using the alligator type squeezer for
> dimpling? Does the plyer type action cause any problems with bring the
dies
> together?
>
> Greg Tanner
> RV-9A WINGS
> O-320 D1A N80BR RESERVED
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Gap Seal |
In a message dated 4/20/01 1:58:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time, KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM
writes:
> ,
>
> Want to avoid the pop-rivits on the top of the skin that hold the
> gap seal to the wing skin. What is the best way to assemble without using
> them? I am thinking of back riveting the gap seal to the skin and then
> mounting the skin to the wing and then pull back the gap seal back a bit to
> slide a bucking bar in to finish the last row of rivets. Then go back and
> use the pop rivets underneath. Sound good.? Bad?? Other ideas?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kurt in OKC
> Building the Worlds Slowest Built Quick Build 6A
>
Worked for me.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Peltor Headset Question (not building related) |
>No your not by yourself on this Jim, that was the same reaction I
>had also. While instructing and doing flight reviews I have had the
>opportunity to try many different brands and styles of headsets with
>and without ANR. I still come back to my Peltor 7004's for comfort
>and outside sound blocking.
As I said, I guess I don't know what I should be looking for. I know
my Peltor and my Telex passives do the job for me. If I could figure
out what I should be missing, I'd buy the ANRs. It just seems that my
ears detect another kind of noise rather than a reduction in noise. I
just read an article that said one can't have passive and ANR. It has
to be one or the other. Maybe the passive is better for me, just as
the ANR is better for some of you who swear by them.
>Maybe there is nothing left for the ANR to protect; HUH!
That could be true for some of us; but, I still pass my hearing tests
just fine. In fact, my AME gives the tests in a sound booth. I don't
get the whisper test like some of you are lucky enough to get. As far
as I can tell, I can still hear the low frequencies just fine. I may lose a
little on the higher ones; but, the lower ones I have. Maybe my old
ears have been somewhat saved by my using hearing protection on
the lawn tractor, while using the chain saw, and while flying my
airplane. It could also be pure luck since I came through the '60s
and '70s like many of you. :-)
Of course, many of us tend to listen when we want to and only what
we want to. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Peltor Headset Question (not building related) |
--- "Randy J. Pflanzer" wrote:
>
>
> You old guys have been flying in open cockpits for too long! ;>)
>
> On my Lightspeed 25XLs, all I have to do is push the button on the
> battery
> case to turn them off and turn them into regular headsets. The
> difference
> is astounding. If the batteries were dead in my headset, I wouldn't
> fly.
> Period.
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G
> RV-6 (144 hours)
I have been flying with DC H10-40 for over 12 years. They are GREAT.
I have flown with a friend in his RV-4 using Peltor. They were just as
good and lighter.
Being cheap, I was reluctant to spend $515 each for two Lightspeed 25XL
but did. With the noise cancelling turned off, they are not as quiet
as my old DC. With the noise cancelling turned on, you can actually
hear airframe noises in my RV-6. They are VERY quiet. The first time
we flew my airplane with the 25XL headsets, I was in the right seat
along for the ride. When you find a woman that likes to fly, you will
let her fly your airplane also. We typically enter the pattern by the
left crosswind at Cable (CCB). On the slowing turn to downwind, it
sounded like the airplane was backfiring. It was not, the canopy was
rattling.
Where did I get the 25XL for $515? From one of the suppliers at:
http://www.avweb.com. The supplier is: http://www.avionicswest.com/
but they do not advertise this price.
The only thing that I do not like about the light speed is that the mic
is on the left hand side. You cannot switch the mic.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
780+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Peltor Headset Question (not building related) |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 4/20/01 14:07, jim jewell at jjewell(at)okanagan.net wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> ANR. retro fit kits are available, can someone point to the supplier for us?
> I remember the price being near $150.00 which seems reasonable if they work
> well.
>
> Jim in Kelowna
I have the older 7003 headsets, which I have been very pleased with. They
are light, and very effective.
ANR is another story. I really like it, and it is definitely a factor for
fatigue and for better understanding of radio transmissios. Biggest gain
for me was way better sounding marching music.
I have retrofitted both my 7003s with the Headsets, Inc, add on ANR kit.
these work very well and seem comparable to the other ANR systems. I did
this because I like my Peltors so well. My tired old ears have been
assaulted by jet noise for many years; however I find the 180 HP lyc and the
RV echo chamber/ whistle machine is especially suitable for the ANR. BTW
these ANRs are only effective at the lower range of freqs so it won't do
much for your hearing loss which is usually in the higher freqs, IMHO.
Someone has already given the web site. It costs $200 for the peltor kit
which is a little higher than other kits. It only made sense for me because
I loved the feel and passive capability of my Peltors. Otherwise I would
have been tempted to just buy a new NR headset.
Denis Walsh.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Gap Seal |
I put the top skins on first, then the gap seal by pulling back the bottom
that attached to the rear spar, then attached to the rear spar, then rivet
on the bottom skin.
Marty in Brentwood, TN
----- Original Message -----
From: <KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 5:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aileron Gap Seal
>
> In a message dated 4/20/01 1:58:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM
> writes:
>
>
> > ,
> >
> > Want to avoid the pop-rivits on the top of the skin that hold
the
> > gap seal to the wing skin. What is the best way to assemble without
using
> > them? I am thinking of back riveting the gap seal to the skin and then
> > mounting the skin to the wing and then pull back the gap seal back a bit
to
> > slide a bucking bar in to finish the last row of rivets. Then go back
and
> > use the pop rivets underneath. Sound good.? Bad?? Other ideas?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Kurt in OKC
> > Building the Worlds Slowest Built Quick Build 6A
> >
>
>
> Worked for me.
>
>
> Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
> RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pre wire harness relays |
Chris,
It appears that the schematic on OP10 shows the position of the contactor
and the master realy inverted compared to their depiction on OP12. I
believe, if you look closely and position them as shown you can see the
relative positions of the terminals change depending upon the orientation of
the contactor and the master relay.
John Warren
RV-6Q N645W
LaCenter WA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris & Susie" <rv6(at)ssc.net.au>
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 3:16 AM
Subject: RV-List: Pre wire harness relays
>
>
> Need help on orientation of wiring.
>
>
> Got the Pre wiring harness . Have put relays on firewall run leads all
> looked great until I found
>
> Drawing OP12 Section A-A Top Left
>
> Please look at starter and master relay. Shown is P17 going from left
> hand side of the starter relay to starter. It also shows P16 going from
> right of starter relay to right of master relay. This is also shown in
> the photos and plans showing how to set out the firewall to run wire,
> and in the RVator, Number 1 - 2000.
>
>
> Problem
> Now look at drawing OP - 10, bottom left hand side and Lightweight
> starter circuit diagram. This shows the opposite to all the other
> drawings and photos. e.g: P17 goes from the right hand side of the
> starter relay to the starter. P16 goes from the right of the master
> relay to the left of the starter relay.
>
> So what is the go? Which is the correct way? Is OP12 and the photos
> wrong or are they both right.
>
> Thankyou
>
> Chris RV 6 Australia
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Air/Oil seperator |
In a message dated Fri, 20 Apr 2001 8:32:50 AM Eastern Daylight Time, GRENIER(at)AOL.COM
writes:
Listers, I am thinking of installing an air-oil separator in my -4. The
device I have has three inputs/outputs. One is used to connect to the engine
breather port on the engine ( 360 A1A ), there is a small hose fitting for
the water drain, and a third that I assume is to return the recovered oil to
the engine. My question is where to plumb the oil return line? Any answers? >>
Yes, and they are all in the archives.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Aileron Gap Seal |
Kurt: I have done the Aileron Gap seal both ways. As other listers
have indicated you will need to lift the outboard skin up for riveting the skin,
so the gap seal needs to be delayed until the top skin is
completed. Trying to pull the gap seal back to use solid rivets makes it
very easy to put smiles in the top skin, which every body will see. Using
the pop rivets works very well and if you have concern about the appearance they
can be filled before painting. My view only.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB - Ready for first flight.
----- Original Message -----
From:
Sent: 4/20/2001 9:54:55 AM
Subject: RV-List: Aileron Gap Seal
-- RV-List message posted by: KAKlewin(at)aol.com
Quick Question,
Want to avoid the
pop-rivets on the top of the skin that hold the
gap seal to the wing skin. What is the best way to assemble
without using
them? I am thinking of back riveting the gap seal to the skin
and then
mounting the skin to the wing and then pull back the gap seal back a bit to
slide a bucking bar in to finish the last row of rivets. Then go
back and
use the pop rivets underneath. Sound
good.? Bad?? Other ideas?
Thanks,
Kurt in OKC
Building the Worlds Slowest Built Quick Build 6A
http://www.matronics.com/order
--- Harvey Sigmon
--- flyhars(at)earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kim Record" <record(at)hbeark.com> |
| Subject: | please take me off your mailing list. |
Please take me off your mailing list
Thank you
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | please take me off your mailing list. |
Kim,
You have to do that yourself.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kim Record
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 12:30 PM
Subject: RV-List: please take me off your mailing list.
Please take me off your mailing list
Thank you
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Air/Oil seperator |
In a message dated 4/20/01 8:32:50 AM Eastern Daylight Time, GRENIER(at)AOL.COM
writes:
> My question is where to plumb the oil return line?
I tapped a 1/8" NPT hole in the oil filler neck and screwed in a 90 degree
1/4" nylon fitting that accepts the return oil.
Brian Eckstein
6A details....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Hobenshield <edhob(at)kermode.net> |
I was wondering if others that fly with a 320 160 HP have had #3
cylinder lose air on compression checks thru the exhaust after 400
hrs or so?
I am not an engine expert and am only learning to use my new
compression tester. The engine runs fine, uses next to no oil. I
noticed that one cylinder pulled thru somewhat easier than the rest
while cold. Once warm there is no difference ( by hand ). I have 500
hrs on the engine and only just started to learn how to conduct
compression tests.
There is very little air escaping but seems to be heard on the exhaust outlet.
what are my problems? Is it expensive to fix?
Thanks for your advise or help in advance.
Ed H.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air/Oil seperator |
Ray,
Normally, the middle connection goes to the crankcase vent, the top one
vents overboard at the cowling exit air, and the bottom one is the oil
drain. I dont recommend draining that back into the engine, it will have
water in it and possibly some acid and it's only a small amount any how.
Just drain it periodically. You could attach a foot or two of clear plastic
tubing with a pet cock on the end, that way you can see just how much oil
you are trapping.
The efficiency of the thing will go way up if you stuff a copper scouring
pad inside. This gives the oil something to condense on and drip to the
bottom. Since I did this on mine-nary a drop on the belly.
Bill RV-8 N48WD
----- Original Message -----
From: <GRENIER(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 8:29 AM
Subject: RV-List: Air/Oil seperator
>
> Listers, I am thinking of installing an air-oil separator in my -4. The
> device I have has three inputs/outputs. One is used to connect to the
engine
> breather port on the engine ( 360 A1A ), there is a small hose fitting for
> the water drain, and a third that I assume is to return the recovered oil
to
> the engine. My question is where to plumb the oil return line? Any
answers?
> Thanks.
>
> Ray Grenier
>
> RV-4 the last and endless 90%
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Generally, valve leakage only gets worse. For example, Continental permits
43 over 80 as being acceptable IF IT ISN'T valve leakage. I'd be willing to
bet that you have a sticking exhaust valve and after the guide warms up, the
stickiness goes away.
Why? because the guide being bronze expands more than the steel stem of the
valve. If this stickiness makes the cylinder miss when cold, it is time to
learn how to clean the guide.
Lycoming Service Instruction 1425 tells one how to remove valve cover,
rocker arm, keepers, springs and push the valve into the cylinder so you can
ream the guide. after reaming, you use safety wire, forceps, and other tools
to put the stem back into the guide so you can reverse the process.
You will need to stuff a rope in the cylinder to hold the valve closed while
removing the keepers and again to gently push the valve back into the guide
after starting it by hand. Of course you will need to use the rope trick to
hold the valve shut while replacing the keepers.
When I told our mechanics at are local FBO that this was the way I wanted it
done instead of removing the cylinder, they thought I was crazy and although
they did it, they charged 3 hours of labor. I have a man on my convention
staff that can do it easily in 30 minutes.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
For further info click on www.sacskyranch.com/stuck.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Hobenshield" <edhob(at)kermode.net>
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 8:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: #3 cylinder
>
> I was wondering if others that fly with a 320 160 HP have had #3
> cylinder lose air on compression checks thru the exhaust after 400
> hrs or so?
> I am not an engine expert and am only learning to use my new
> compression tester. The engine runs fine, uses next to no oil. I
> noticed that one cylinder pulled thru somewhat easier than the rest
> while cold. Once warm there is no difference ( by hand ). I have 500
> hrs on the engine and only just started to learn how to conduct
> compression tests.
> There is very little air escaping but seems to be heard on the exhaust
outlet.
> what are my problems? Is it expensive to fix?
> Thanks for your advise or help in advance.
>
> Ed H.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCN44257(at)AOL.COM |
I have seen this done by tying fishing line to the keeper grove. When the
valve is in the cylinder a hook is used through the spark plug hole to pull
the line through the plug hole. After the guide is cleaned the hook is passed
through the guide to pull the line out the guide. Then you work the valve
back into the guide and reassemble.
Karl Rigdon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | New web site location & content |
Listers,
My web site has been moved to http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
I've added a brief trip report with a few photos. Wisconsin to Sun n' Fun,
Key West & North Carolina.
Also added my Pilot Operating Handbook. Thanks to Gary R. VanRemortel &
Scott Gesele for posting their POHs to the web. It's always easier to edit
something than to start from scratch. Thanks also to Tom
Gummo for the CG calculator program, used to generate a couple of
illustrations in
my handbook.
Hope to see a few of you at the Red Wing Fly-in tomorrow.
Regards,
Chris Good, http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
West Bend, WI
RV6A-QB N86CG, 185 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
| Subject: | Peltor Headset Question (not building related) |
I bought a pair of 7006 for my passenger side (wife) a few years ago
because of the light weight. Never used them until my last trip to SnF.
I've always used a pair of Softcomm which I bought used 10+ yrs ago as a
student. I never knew better so I didn't miss anything - until trying my
wife's set. Well, I picked up a pair of Peltor 8014 at SnF for myself. So
now we have his and hers.
I do want to interject one technical comment about headsets in general.
Non-ANR headsets: the major contributor in a good pair is in the seals. I
tried them all on at SnF and Peltor won in my opinion. David Clark has
never impressed me - especially considering the prices they ask for them.
Now ANR is a bit difficult to judge. First of all, the ANR function only
cancels out certain frequencies (engine noise). But again, if the seals are
horrible, the ANR function might as well be set aside. For an extra
$200-300 I'm not willing to say ANR headsets are worth it just yet.
One suggestion.... Try wearing ear plugs in addition to your headsets.
Some like them, others don't. I think the speakers in your headsets are so
close to your ears that the plugs don't affect the volume much. They block
out other noises by many folds, and prepare your ears for later years.
Anh
N985VU-6
Maryland
>
>Harry,
>
>I use the Peltor 7006 headsets. Over the years I've owned various
>brands of headsets (david clark 13.4's, peltor 7004's.) Recently I
>bought a pair of Lightspeed QFR passive headsets, but didn't like them
>because the strain relief on the cord coming out of the earcup would rub
>on my shoulder harnesses, and if you turned your head quickly they'd
>come off. Light, but not as comfortable as the Peltors. I bought the
>7006's from Chief Aircraft (ask for the web special price of $180.00)
>about three months ago and love them. They are the most comfortable and
>quiet headsets I've owned, much more comfortable than the 7004's I have
>due to the larger earcups. Dave Clarks are like strapping a boat anchor
>to your head compared to the Peltors IMO. A friend of mine who has
>Lightspeed 25XL ANR headsets flew with me not too long ago and he said
>that they were more comfortable than his Lightspeeds, and came close to
>being as quiet.
>
>Bob Japundza
>RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 113 hours
>
>>Hope no one gets upset at my asking this, but I am considering buying a
>
>>Peltor 7006 headset and would sure appreciate any good, bad or
>indifferent
>>comments from the list on these units. Thanks.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Pittman" <SPITTMAN(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Sheared Wingtips for RV-4 |
Does anyone know whether Vans is planning to offer sheared wing tips for
models other than the 7, specifically the RV-4? Are the airfoils all the
same?
I realize that the lengths are vary.
Scott Pittman
Waiting on RV-4 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cometflash on a beer budget |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Ok cheapskates, here ya go:
I surfed the net far and wide looking for a less expensive strobe power
supply equivalent to Whelen's high-powered HDA-CF Cometflash system. The
only one I could find is the X-PAK 904, a 4-head power supply built by
NOVA Electronics (www.strobe.com). All the info is on their website
including links to distributors. I paid $159 for it from Strobes 'n'
More. It has a good 5 year warranty, the quality appears to be very
good, and the installation directions are outstanding. It uses the exact
same AMP connectors as Whelen does, so I also bought some connectors and
30' of cable from Strobes 'n' More bringing my total to $200 including
S&H. (note: the cable is nice quality, shielded, looks identical to the
"aviation" stuff but it's a fraction of the cost at $0.35 per foot).
Then I got some used #A650 Whelen nav/strobe assemblies from White air
salvage in KS City, total $140 (they look and work good, just need
paint). I already had a white tail nav light that came with my
second-hand empennage kit. So I'm out $340 for the complete system which
is about half of what the equivalent setup costs from Whelen.
Some info on the power supply....it's rated at 90 Watts output or 75
Joules total. The specs are very close to the 3-head Whelen HDA-CF
Cometflash system in terms of output power. But the NOVA power supply
has several other features that I like, primarily the ability to select
multiple flash patterns. I plan to use the Quintuple Flash mode
alternating between the two wingtip strobes. This gives a very long,
high-powered quintuple burst to each strobe which looks from a distance
like a brighter, longer flash. The flash rate of each strobe in this
mode appears to be 70 flashes per minute (of course it's actually 70 X 5
bursts but you can't distinguish that unless you're close to it). 70
flashes per minute falls right into the acceptable flash rate for strobes
per FAR 23.1401 which says the system "must give an effective flash
frequency of not less than 40, nor more than 100, cycles per minute. The
effective flash frequency is the frequency at which the airplane's
complete anticollision light system is observed from a distance, and
applies to each sector of light including any overlaps that exist when
the system consists of more than one light source. In overlaps, flash
frequencies may exceed 100, but not 180, cycles per minute." So you
could also use this system to drive both wingtips simultaneously and a
third strobe in the tail, and it would still fall within the regs....that
is, you would see a combined wingtip/tail flashrate of 140 per minute.
Another selectable feature on this system is a "low power mode" that you
can activate with a switch. The advantage to this is twofold: at night,
you can use the lower power mode on the ramp so you don't blind yourself
and everyone around you; and you could also prolong your flashtube life
by using this mode whenever you are on the ground and you don't have the
benefit of lots of cooling airflow. In the quintuple flash mode (high
power) the heads get very hot very fast in still air. And on that note,
I'd also recommend against using Aeroflash strobes with this power
supply, since they are not rated to take the same kind of energy the
Whelen strobes are. I think you'd burn up the Aeroflash strobes pretty
quick in the high power mode. For example, if you are using the
quintuple flash mode but only have two of the four strobe outputs
connected, each of the two strobes will get 45 W or 37 Joules (which on
my airplane is the desired effect : ). It will not hurt the power supply
at all to leave two outputs disconnected according to NOVA, but their
installation instructions say not to do it because most emergency vehicle
strobe heads are only rated to 32 W or 25 Joules, so you'd burn them out
very quickly if you connected them this way.
Disclaimer: since my airplane isn't flying yet I can't do a side by side
comparison from a distance with the Whelen HDA-CF system, but since I'm
using the same strobes and the power supplies have comparable specs, I
believe they will be too close to tell the difference, except that the
NOVA system has the quintuple flash mode (vs. Whelen's quadflash) so the
NOVA system might appear to have a slightly longer--hence more
visible--flash. NOVA's flashrate is also higher (if I understand
Whelen's specs correctly). One thing I can guarantee, the NOVA system is
absolutely blinding to look at up close even in daylight, and is
certainly MUCH brighter than the strobe systems I've seen from Aeroflash
or on the typical spamcan.
My last comment is that Nova Electronics has great tech support, I
dialogued quite a bit with Eugene Abel at Nova, trying to understand the
effects of connecting different combinations of strobes, flashrates and
energy delivered, etc....he was very helpful and gave me too much good
info to write on the list but if anyone has more specific questions feel
free to ask (him or me).
This one's for the archives and hopefully will save somebody else the
amount of time it's taken me to figure it all out...if money's not an
issue I'd recommend just getting the complete Whelen system and save
yourself a bit of time/effort. Or, if brightness doesn't matter, go with
Aeroflash.....there was debate a while back on the list where some people
thought that brighter strobes didn't make any real difference....NOT
trying to start that thread again. : )
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87", and some pretty bright flashy
things on the wingtips....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aussie visit to US |
Hello Chris And Susie,
If while "popping" into Canada you happen to find yourself planning to be in
Kelowna BC. Please do stop by and give us a nod. If you call ahead some
pillows can be fluffed up for a good rest.
Warning!, I'm building a 6A and will show it off with only the slightest
provocation.
My wife Chris rides Dressage and is very much a horse and a people person.
In any case have a great time on your trip.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris & Susie <rv6(at)ssc.net.au>
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 3:24 AM
Subject: RV-List: Aussie visit to US
>
> My wife and I will be travelling around the states for approximately 3
> months. We will be landing at LA, going to Portland, going to Vans of
> course, then pop into Canada. Then flying to Florida, spend a couple of
> weeks there, buy an old bomb (car), and spend about 6 weeks travelling
> to Evergreen, Colorado. We will be in Evergreen for a month.
>
> We would love to meet any RV builders and flyers along the way. Once in
> Colorado my wife is doing a course, so I am free for the month, if
> anyone needs a hand. Would also like to go to Oshkosh if anyone would
> like to share expenses.
>
> If anyone has any suggestions of places that we must see please let us
> know.
>
> Please respond off the list.
>
> Thanks
>
> Chris and Susie
>
> P.S: We are building an RV 6, just finishing off the canopy.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | tank reinforce ring/rib question |
The reinforcement ring is exactly 5.25 inches diameter (inside). I cut my
inboard rib where the reinforce ring is attached the exact same amount. In
other words, my reinforcment ring, cork gasket and RIB are all the exact same
size-that's from the inside diameter of course. Is this correct?The pix in
the manual/drawings are a little fuzzy. The show that more of the rib is
removed, but I see no specs. Thanks, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roger Embree <rembree(at)sympatico.ca> |
Ed Hobenshield wrote:
> I was wondering if others that fly with a 320 160 HP have had #3
> cylinder lose air on compression checks thru the exhaust after 400
> hrs or so? ..... snip>
Ed,
Go to
http://www.prime-mover.org/Engines/Marvel/index.html
The articles here describe the problem you have and the methodical approach Bill
Scott and Bill Marvel took to discover the cause. It is a fairly lenthy read but
is worth the time. It identifies the source of premature valve guide wear as a
lack of sufficient oil flow to the rocker box area. The only source of oil to this
area is from bleed down of the hydraulic lifters. Lycoming borrowed their lifter
design from the flat head era. Continental looked at more modern automotive
designs and have different lifters. They get as much as 20 times the amount of
oil
to the number 3 cylinder. In Lycoming's case the number 3 cylinder gets the least
amount of oil. Unfortunately there is no cheap solution except pulling the numbers
1 and 3 cylinders long before numbers 2 and 4. Has Lycoming ever fixed the faulty
design? No. They have chosen to pass the bucks, yours and mine.
Roger Embree
6A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airbatix(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Air/Oil seperator |
\bill wrote....
"Ray,
Normally, the middle connection goes to the crankcase vent, the top one
vents overboard at the cowling exit air, and the bottom one is the oil
drain. I dont recommend draining that back into the engine, it will have
water in it and possibly some acid and it's only a small amount any how.
Just drain it periodically. You could attach a foot or two of clear plastic
tubing with a pet cock on the end, that way you can see just how much oil
you are trapping.
The efficiency of the thing will go way up if you stuff a copper scouring
pad inside. This gives the oil something to condense on and drip to the
bottom. Since I did this on mine-nary a drop on the belly.
....concur...you spent alot of time, money, and firewall space to trap the
crap from your breather...its nasty stuff...dont return it to your
engine...either capture it in a tube like ray or drip it off onto a hot
exhaust pipe...
paul
n632m/rv6a/180/cs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Streit <wooody98(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | RV-9 wing parts list |
To all my fellow RV-9 builders out there.
I have copied the RV-9 wing part list into Excel and have sorted the the
list 3 ways.
1. the original listing from Vans
2. sorted by part number
3. sorted by part description
It makes it a lot easier to find parts when listed by part number or
part description. I hope this list will be helpful to others here on
the list
Jim Streit
90073 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
Ed Hobenshield wrote:
>
> I was wondering if others that fly with a 320 160 HP have had #3
> cylinder lose air on compression checks thru the exhaust after 400
> hrs or so?
> I am not an engine expert and am only learning to use my new
> compression tester. The engine runs fine, uses next to no oil. I
> noticed that one cylinder pulled thru somewhat easier than the rest
> while cold. Once warm there is no difference ( by hand ). I have 500
> hrs on the engine and only just started to learn how to conduct
> compression tests.
> There is very little air escaping but seems to be heard on the exhaust outlet.
> what are my problems? Is it expensive to fix?
> Thanks for your advise or help in advance.
>
> Ed H.
>
> Ed: I have been having trouble with my #2 cylinder for nearly a year now. It
> kept sticking about every ten hours of flying time. I took it off and had Sentry
> Aircraft Cylinder rebuild it. (They are in Ft Worth, TX) New valve guides, new
> valve seats. and rocker arm bushings.
Cost was $267 but it should be servicable for a long while now.
At least I hope so. Carroll Bird, Buffalo Gap TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
One solution to the low oil flow to the #1 and #3 cylinder rockers is to use
High leak down rate lifters of that side. Why? because the leak down oil is
the source of oil for the overheads up thru the push rods. Use low leak
down rate on the #2 and #4 as oil gallery on that side only supplies the
lifters. On the other side, the gallery does the same plus all the cam and
crank bearings which it the reason for lower pressure and lower volume of
oil thru the lifters.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Embree" <rembree(at)sympatico.ca>
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2001 6:48 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: #3 cylinder
>
> Ed Hobenshield wrote:
>
> > I was wondering if others that fly with a 320 160 HP have had #3
> > cylinder lose air on compression checks thru the exhaust after 400
> > hrs or so? ..... snip>
>
> Ed,
>
> Go to
> http://www.prime-mover.org/Engines/Marvel/index.html
>
> The articles here describe the problem you have and the methodical
approach Bill
> Scott and Bill Marvel took to discover the cause. It is a fairly lenthy
read but
> is worth the time. It identifies the source of premature valve guide wear
as a
> lack of sufficient oil flow to the rocker box area. The only source of oil
to this
> area is from bleed down of the hydraulic lifters. Lycoming borrowed their
lifter
> design from the flat head era. Continental looked at more modern
automotive
> designs and have different lifters. They get as much as 20 times the
amount of oil
> to the number 3 cylinder. In Lycoming's case the number 3 cylinder gets
the least
> amount of oil. Unfortunately there is no cheap solution except pulling the
numbers
> 1 and 3 cylinders long before numbers 2 and 4. Has Lycoming ever fixed the
faulty
> design? No. They have chosen to pass the bucks, yours and mine.
>
> Roger Embree
> 6A fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | AN3 bolt edge distance |
Builder's what is the edge min edge distance for an AN3 bolt through .125
material, is it 2x like rivet's
Chris RV8 Drilling horiz & vert stab.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | AN3 Bolt edge dist |
Builder's What is the min edge distance for an AN3 bolt through .125 alum
material, is it the same as rivets, 2x
Chris RV8 Mounting horiz an vert stab.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Streit <wooody98(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9 parts list |
oops, forgot to include the emp. parts
Jim Streit wrote:
>
> To all my fellow RV-9 builders out there.
> I have copied the RV-9 wing part list into Excel and have sorted the the
> list 3 ways.
> 1. the original listing from Vans
> 2. sorted by part number
> 3. sorted by part description
>
> It makes it a lot easier to find parts when listed by part number or
> part description. I hope this list will be helpful to others here on
> the list
>
> Jim Streit
> 90073 wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Streit <wooody98(at)bellsouth.net> |
To all my fellow RV-9 builders out there.
I have copied the RV-9 parts list into Excel and have sorted the the
list 3 ways.
oops forgot the empanage parts
1. the original listing from Vans
2. sorted by part number
3. sorted by part description
It makes it a lot easier to find parts when listed by part number or
part description. I hope this list will be helpful to others here on
the list
Jim Streit
90073 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: AN3 bolt edge distance |
>
>Builder's what is the edge min edge distance for an AN3 bolt through .125
>material, is it 2x like rivet's
>
>Chris RV8 Drilling horiz & vert stab.
>
Chris,
The answer to that question will depend on the type of material
(steel can handle a smaller edge distance than aluminum), and the
direction of the loads on the bolt (i.e. will the loads tend to tear
the bolt out the side of the material or not).
So, given that the engineers at Vans are better placed to know which
direction the loads are, they are the best guys to answer your
question.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (mounting wings)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terminaltown(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Sites up and running |
cadet-list(at)matronics.com, cessna-list(at)matronics.com,
czech-list(at)matronics.com, ez-list(at)matronics.com, glasair-list(at)matronics.com,
homebuilt-list(at)matronics.com, kolb-list(at)matronics.com,
piper-list(at)matronics.com, pitts-list(at)matronics.com,
rocket-list(at)matronics.com, rvcanada-list(at)matronics.com,
rveurope-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com,
seaplane-list(at)matronics.com, skymaster-list(at)matronics.com,
smithmini-list(at)matronics.com, sonerai-list(at)matronics.com,
yak-list(at)matronics.com, zenith-list(at)matronics.com,
lancair-list(at)matronics.com
Hello Listers:
Terminal Town's Shopping Cart is up
and running!
Or http://www.terminaltown.com
Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
Will pass on a few tips that I have picked up over the years from
mechanics, truckers and AME's and my own experience with wheel bearings.
Using this info as it applies to the bearings we have in the RV wheels
or any light duty applications I install them as follows:
Wash thoroughly in clean solvent (varsol) even if you are starting with
new bearings that have grease on them.The reason for this is you don't
know how they were packed or the type of grease that is on them, it may
be nothing more than rust protection. Dry by blowing air through them
if available, but don't allow them to spin.
Pack with a good grade of wheel bearing grease. Ideally this is done
with a bearing packer that forces grease through the bearing, something
that most of us don't have or access to. The usual way is to put a small
quantity in the palm of the left hand and with the bearing held flat in
the right hand force grease through the containing ring and rollers
until it comes all the way through the bearing. This is done
progressively turning the bearing a bit at a time until you have it
packed all the way around then lay them on a clean piece of paper.
Bearings that have been in use should be put back in the same place they
came out off.
Make sure the part of the bearing in the wheels are clean. No grease
need be applied here as the bearings properly packed will have all you
need. Install the inside bearing with its grease retainer in the wheel
and slide it on the axle then the outside bearing and nut and washer if
applicable.
Tighten the nut finger tight as you turn the wheel then with a wrench
tighten to take out all the slack in the assembly, by turning the wheel
while tightening with the wrench you will feel it start to get stiffer
to turn, stop tightening at this point and then back the nut off one
space to line up with the cotter pin hole. The wheel should turn freely
at this point, remember there will be a bit of drag from the grease
retainers. If it is still a bit stiff back the nut off one more space
and install the cotter pin.
This is probably not the most scientific way to tension these bearings
but I have found that it works well. I used this method for years on my
pick-ups and travel trailers repacking them about every 10000 miles. In
the case of our RV's these bearings are only carrying less than 400
pounds apiece and the mileage is minimal. I think the main concern is
not to over tighten them.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. Working on cowlings on the 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Armstrong" <armstrong(at)coastside.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Beaings |
I would like to add my two cents. I spent a wonderful (not!) day in the
middle of nowhere Nevada replacing the front wheel bearings on my Harley
because I used a brand of grease that didn't have good water resistance.
The factory made the same mistake in 1985. Most cans of grease now list
their water resistance.
----- Original Message -----
From: Eustace Bowhay <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2001 9:27 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wheel Beaings
>
> Will pass on a few tips that I have picked up over the years from
> mechanics, truckers and AME's and my own experience with wheel bearings.
> Using this info as it applies to the bearings we have in the RV wheels
> or any light duty applications I install them as follows:
>
> Wash thoroughly in clean solvent (varsol) even if you are starting with
> new bearings that have grease on them.The reason for this is you don't
> know how they were packed or the type of grease that is on them, it may
> be nothing more than rust protection. Dry by blowing air through them
> if available, but don't allow them to spin.
>
> Pack with a good grade of wheel bearing grease. Ideally this is done
> with a bearing packer that forces grease through the bearing, something
> that most of us don't have or access to. The usual way is to put a small
> quantity in the palm of the left hand and with the bearing held flat in
> the right hand force grease through the containing ring and rollers
> until it comes all the way through the bearing. This is done
> progressively turning the bearing a bit at a time until you have it
> packed all the way around then lay them on a clean piece of paper.
> Bearings that have been in use should be put back in the same place they
> came out off.
>
> Make sure the part of the bearing in the wheels are clean. No grease
> need be applied here as the bearings properly packed will have all you
> need. Install the inside bearing with its grease retainer in the wheel
> and slide it on the axle then the outside bearing and nut and washer if
> applicable.
>
> Tighten the nut finger tight as you turn the wheel then with a wrench
> tighten to take out all the slack in the assembly, by turning the wheel
> while tightening with the wrench you will feel it start to get stiffer
> to turn, stop tightening at this point and then back the nut off one
> space to line up with the cotter pin hole. The wheel should turn freely
> at this point, remember there will be a bit of drag from the grease
> retainers. If it is still a bit stiff back the nut off one more space
> and install the cotter pin.
>
> This is probably not the most scientific way to tension these bearings
> but I have found that it works well. I used this method for years on my
> pick-ups and travel trailers repacking them about every 10000 miles. In
> the case of our RV's these bearings are only carrying less than 400
> pounds apiece and the mileage is minimal. I think the main concern is
> not to over tighten them.
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. Working on cowlings on the 6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Hughes" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cometflash on a beer budget |
Nice job, Mark. I love cheap stuff.
As an addition to all you other cheapskates, Galls Inc. supplies stuff to
police and fire departments. They sell Whelen power supplies that you might
find "remarkably similar" to the aircraft version. In fact the difference
seems to be a plastic box as opposed to the aluminum one. Well, that and
the price. $79.99 plus shipping. Part number GR120 if you are interested.
To contact them, try WWW.galls.com or 1-800-477-7766.
Oh, get their catalog. They have lots of handcuffs that you can use as
"layover toys".
Later,
Keith Hughes
RV-6 Finish
Parker, CO
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 11:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: Cometflash on a beer budget
>
> Ok cheapskates, here ya go:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
I'm shying away from Garmin products until they change their warranty
policy. 1 year from TIME OF PURCHASE. They need to get real and understand
where a lot of their business is coming from (i.e. homebuilders). UPSs is
MUCH better -- 28 months FROM TIME PLACED IN SERVICE. Too bad Garmin has the
coolest handhelds....
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~200 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
| Subject: | Whelen Wingtip Lights For Sale! |
Hi all...
I sold the Whelen lights I had, but I still have a Kuntzleman two strobe
power supply...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/wing/ps.jpg
http://www.kestrobes.com/New/Doublex.html
This power supply's output is slightly better than the AeroFlash equivalent
and uses industry standard AMP connectors... It cost me $140, I'll let it
go for $110 including shipping...
Since I am changing my lighting configuration, I now need a power supply
that will drive three strobes...
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Peltor Headset Question (not building related) |
Good point, the softer ear plugs are very comfortable and really do help. I
spent a few years behind a P & W 985 in a Beaver and used the shaped soft foam
plugs plus a DC headset and still have good hearing. I prefer the shaped foam
plugs to the cut foam style plug. They are much more comfortable even after 5 or
6 hr..
Garry LeGare
RV6 Finishing
wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net wrote:
>
> I bought a pair of 7006 for my passenger side (wife) a few years ago
> because of the light weight. Never used them until my last trip to SnF.
> I've always used a pair of Softcomm which I bought used 10+ yrs ago as a
> student. I never knew better so I didn't miss anything - until trying my
> wife's set. Well, I picked up a pair of Peltor 8014 at SnF for myself. So
> now we have his and hers.
> I do want to interject one technical comment about headsets in general.
> Non-ANR headsets: the major contributor in a good pair is in the seals. I
> tried them all on at SnF and Peltor won in my opinion. David Clark has
> never impressed me - especially considering the prices they ask for them.
> Now ANR is a bit difficult to judge. First of all, the ANR function only
> cancels out certain frequencies (engine noise). But again, if the seals are
> horrible, the ANR function might as well be set aside. For an extra
> $200-300 I'm not willing to say ANR headsets are worth it just yet.
> One suggestion.... Try wearing ear plugs in addition to your headsets.
> Some like them, others don't. I think the speakers in your headsets are so
> close to your ears that the plugs don't affect the volume much. They block
> out other noises by many folds, and prepare your ears for later years.
> Anh
> N985VU-6
> Maryland
>
> >
> >Harry,
> >
> >I use the Peltor 7006 headsets. Over the years I've owned various
> >brands of headsets (david clark 13.4's, peltor 7004's.) Recently I
> >bought a pair of Lightspeed QFR passive headsets, but didn't like them
> >because the strain relief on the cord coming out of the earcup would rub
> >on my shoulder harnesses, and if you turned your head quickly they'd
> >come off. Light, but not as comfortable as the Peltors. I bought the
> >7006's from Chief Aircraft (ask for the web special price of $180.00)
> >about three months ago and love them. They are the most comfortable and
> >quiet headsets I've owned, much more comfortable than the 7004's I have
> >due to the larger earcups. Dave Clarks are like strapping a boat anchor
> >to your head compared to the Peltors IMO. A friend of mine who has
> >Lightspeed 25XL ANR headsets flew with me not too long ago and he said
> >that they were more comfortable than his Lightspeeds, and came close to
> >being as quiet.
> >
> >Bob Japundza
> >RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 113 hours
> >
> >>Hope no one gets upset at my asking this, but I am considering buying a
> >
> >>Peltor 7006 headset and would sure appreciate any good, bad or
> >indifferent
> >>comments from the list on these units. Thanks.
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Yes, too much coffee can do powerful things..... :-)
One thing it can do is dramatically reduce the range of an aircraft, but
I digress. :-(
Keith, I sympathize with your "sticker shock" concerning prices of
Lycomings (even though I wonder how you could be building or flying an
RV6 without having already researched the going prices of engines). Most
of us have had to take a few deep breaths when getting ready to shell
out serious cash for an engine.
However, in spite of the engines being seemingly overpriced, I must
defend their reliability. It is true that the basic technology of the
Lycoming is rooted in 1930's agriculture (Continental made a good
reputation building tractor motors), but it is also true that the
technology still works very well. Yes, the design of the engine and
components is archaic, but it still works better than any current
alternatives, all things considered. There are various auto and other
conversions available, but they require much more engineering on the
part of the builder than a Lycoming installation, and they have yet to
prove in huge numbers of hours and installations their long-term
viability. Most of the conversion folks admit that in the long run, they
have not saved a great deal of money over a Lycoming when all the R&D is
considered.
Flying an airplane is expensive. Period.
Before we get too torqued out of shape over the antiquity of the design
of our engines, we need to remember that the RV's we love to build and
fly likewise possess archaic roots. The basic, aluminum, monocoque tail
plane airframe dates back to, well........, the 1930's, same as our
engines! The basic flight instruments in most RV's likewise trace their
roots to 1930 pitot instruments.
I realize I have not soothed your pain. However, I don't think Lycoming
is in any danger of being driven out of business soon because the market
just hasn't produced a good alternative, yet......, to a Lycoming. The
"lawnmower" carb will give you hundreds of hours of reliable service, as
will the "tractor" magnetos.
Good luck with your engine hunting,
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with mostly 1930's technology except the RMI stuff
and the Lowrance 100)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
==================
Keith Hughes wrote:
>
>
> Permit me to vent a little, here (too much coffee).
>
> As someone who is in the middle of searching for my first quality,
> affordable engine, I am astounded at the price that Lycoming is demanding
> for these engines. My wife's BMW was less than the cost of a new Lycosaur
> and is light-years ahead in technology. Hell, my truck engine is the Star
> Ship Enterprise compared to these things. I recently had the "opportunity"
> to see a carb (Marvell, I think) and I'm not sure I'd put that thing on a
> lawnmower. So now to hear that these guys have known that their design of
> dripping oil, is less than perfect comes as little shock. Well, I guess
> they have only had 40 or so years to fix it. I know, I can hear all the old
> A&P's out there chuckling, saying , "The kid is just now getting it." I
> guess I was thinking that the free market would correct it. (Thank you trial
> lawyers).
>
> To sum up this little rant, if there is anyone from Lycoming out there, I
> can't wait for the day at some fly-in where we are all sitting around over
> our pancakes, chuckling at the memory of your defunct company while we all
> have some new, reasonable engine tucked under the hood.
>
> And I hope you guys are all selling used pintos. With O-320's under the
> hood.
>
> Keith (Geeeeze, man. Switch to de-caf.) Hughes
> Parker, CO
> RV-6 (still searching)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Induction Systems |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 4:38 PM
Subject: RV-List: Induction Systems
>
> Hi all...
>
> Was wonder what people think of using a NACA vent for feeding the
carburetor
> vs. the standard snorkel configuration vs. the induction system used by
the
> IO360 vs. using ambient air from inside the cowl?
>
Bill, dont bother with the NACA. I worked with them on glasairs for years.
They are very particular to their location and generaly will not make as
much manifold
pressure. For a carb., Vans ramair is excellent. Ive just started testing an
"8" with the
internal induction and forward facing injection and am very surprised to
find that the
MP is at least as good as the ramair. Terry B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: tank reinforce ring/rib question |
In a message dated Sat, 21 Apr 2001 2:23:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
writes:
The reinforcement ring is exactly 5.25 inches diameter (inside). I cut my
inboard rib where the reinforce ring is attached the exact same amount. In
other words, my reinforcment ring, cork gasket and RIB are all the exact same
size-that's from the inside diameter of course. Is this correct?The pix in
the manual/drawings are a little fuzzy. The show that more of the rib is
removed, but I see no specs.
Hi Bob,
FWIW - I cut mine the same inside diameter as the ring. No leaks on pressure check
but no fuel has been introduced yet. Time will tell.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A - N57ME (reserved) (Wiring)
www.ericsrv6a.com
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Hollifield <billhollifield(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Noise Cancelling Headset Conversion |
http://www.headsetsinc.com/
Headsets Incorporated
supplies the conversion kits for noise cancelling headsets.
I put one in My Dave Clark H10-20 and am very, very happy with it.
Bill H.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rscott(at)involved.com (Richard Scott) |
Good writeup from Eustace. One tip: To make the packing process a little
less messy, put the bearing and grease in a plastic sandwich bag. You can
then work it from outside the bag and keep mostly clean hands. The plastic
also helps to work the grease between the bearings, since the grease can't
slip past it.
Dick Scott
Starting a 6A, but planning to look at the 7.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | proseal mix ratio screw up |
I was wondering why my proseal is not curing some after several hrs. I just
remembered phone rang during the mix, got in a hurry and probably mixed only
half the hardener. It ended up being 10:.5 instead of 10:1. My options are to
drill out stiffiners and filler cap (first stage) of sealing. How stupid can
one be? DON'T ANSWER THAT. Anyone know if this stuff will still work with
ratio I used?
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Induction Systems |
Terry,
Can you tell me if the RV-8 "internal" induction system you're working on is
similar to the system used in the RV-7 with fuel injection? I'm building an
RV-6 with an IO-360B1B (bendix fuel injected 180 hp) and would like to
eliminate the standard induction scoop on the bottom of the cowl.
John Warren
RV-6 N645W
LaCenter WA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2001 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Induction Systems
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill VonDane" <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
> To: "Rv8list@Egroups" ; "Rv-List"
>
> Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 4:38 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Induction Systems
>
>
> >
> > Hi all...
> >
> > Was wonder what people think of using a NACA vent for feeding the
> carburetor
> > vs. the standard snorkel configuration vs. the induction system used by
> the
> > IO360 vs. using ambient air from inside the cowl?
> >
> Bill, dont bother with the NACA. I worked with them on glasairs for
years.
> They are very particular to their location and generaly will not make as
> much manifold
> pressure. For a carb., Vans ramair is excellent. Ive just started testing
an
> "8" with the
> internal induction and forward facing injection and am very surprised to
> find that the
> MP is at least as good as the ramair. Terry B.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | EGT probes, IO-360, RV-8 |
I'm preparing to install the EGT probes for the VM1000 system. The recommendation
is to place the probes 3.5" to 4.0" inches from the exhaust flange. For those
of you who have the Vetterman Cross over system on the IO-360, cylinder #3
precludes placing the probe in this location due to the slip joint in the exhaust.
Others may be similar. Since having a consistent distance from the flange
is key for balanced EGT readings and the 3.5" - 4.0" recommended range is
out due to the #3 slip joint issue. Is is better to go closer or farther from
the flange? I'm talking about either being 1.5" or closer, or at least 4.5".
Comments?
Regards,
-Don RV-8 NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Yarbrough" <pyarbroug(at)earthlink.net> |
Jim
I don't see the list. If you attached it as a file I believe matronics
removes attachment from posted messages. You need to put the list on a web
site and then put the URL in your message on the list so we can get to it.
I just ordered my RV-9a wings last week. I still have a lot to do on my
empanage but thought since it takes a couple months for the wings I should
go ahead and order.
Paul Yarbrough
RV-9a Emp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Streit
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2001 9:28 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-9 parts list
To all my fellow RV-9 builders out there.
I have copied the RV-9 parts list into Excel and have sorted the the
list 3 ways.
oops forgot the empanage parts
1. the original listing from Vans
2. sorted by part number
3. sorted by part description
It makes it a lot easier to find parts when listed by part number or
part description. I hope this list will be helpful to others here on
the list
Jim Streit
90073 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com> |
| Subject: | proseal mix ratio screw up |
It will work just fine. ProSeal is GREAT stuff. Mix more black stuff and
hit hardens quicker. Less, and its slower. But as long as its a shade of
grey and not white... it WILL harden.
Stop worrying... it may take a few days to harden, but it will last longer
than you or your plane. I mixed some tonite to hold farings on the bottom of
my firewall. I use it all the time.
jim
Tampa
ProSeal lover, FWF
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2001 10:39 PM
Subject: RV-List: proseal mix ratio screw up
I was wondering why my proseal is not curing some after several hrs. I just
remembered phone rang during the mix, got in a hurry and probably mixed only
half the hardener. It ended up being 10:.5 instead of 10:1. My options are
to
drill out stiffiners and filler cap (first stage) of sealing. How stupid can
one be? DON'T ANSWER THAT. Anyone know if this stuff will still work with
ratio I used?
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: proseal mix ratio screw up |
Hi Bob:
There is no need to drill out your stiffeners and filler cap. The ratio
that you used will eventually cure. Just give it some time....like a few
days even. Ambient temperature will also play a role....the warmer, the
faster the set. I read once that Proseal will set even if you do not mix
the hardener in...it will just take forever.
Glad you mentioned that you got in a hurry and neglected to mix in enough
hardener. That is exactly the reason why I did my tanks in several more
sessions than the 4 that are suggested in the manual. My feeling regarding
getting along with Proseal is to take your time and don't try to do too much
at once. It was easier for me to spend a bit more time on the tanks than it
would have taken to redo something.
Hang in there, and put the phone off the hook next time! ;
)
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuse
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: Bobpaulo(at)aol.com <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com>
Date: Saturday, April 21, 2001 10:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: proseal mix ratio screw up
>
>I was wondering why my proseal is not curing some after several hrs. I just
>remembered phone rang during the mix, got in a hurry and probably mixed
only
>half the hardener. It ended up being 10:.5 instead of 10:1. My options are
to
>drill out stiffiners and filler cap (first stage) of sealing. How stupid
can
>one be? DON'T ANSWER THAT. Anyone know if this stuff will still work with
>ratio I used?
>Thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Keith,
I looked at Galls in my search for high-watt power supplies and didn't
find anything equivalent to Whelen's HDA-CF system....Whelen does make a
number of power supplies that have lower power ratings though. I'd be
surprised if Galls has a system for $89 that does what my 90 Watt NOVA
system does but if so please let me know what it is.
One comment I would make is that if the Galls system is in a plastic box,
it will probably create a lot of noise in your comm radio. The NOVA
system (like Whelen) is enclosed completely in metal and according to the
installation instructions, if you ground the case to the airframe (or
"Chassis ground") you should not have any noise.
Regards,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"
writes:
>Mark,
>
>If it's not too late...
>
>From Galls, inc. www.galls.com or 1-800-477-7766. Galls supplies
>equipment to police and fire departments. They sell a Whelin strobe
>power supply that is the same as the aircraft version except that it's
>in a plastic box as opposed to a metal one and it sells for $89. Same
>inside, just doesn't say "Aircraft" on it. If you are interested I'll
>post the part number.
>
>Keith Hughes
>RV-6 Finish
>Parker CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cometflash on a beer budget |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Bill,
Looks like you found the specs...they are all accessible online for both
Whelen and NOVA (and Galls, and other systems as well....).
And yes, you can use only 3 strobes (or just 2) even though it's a 4 head
power supply. I specifically asked the NOVA tech rep about this because
I was worried about burning up or somehow damaging the power supply. He
said that it doesn't create a problem at all for the power supply, which
is sorta like a big capacitor that charges up and only discharges if it
has a path (strobe head).....if there's no path to discharge into the
charge just remains constant inside the supply and doesn't hurt anything.
The problem is if you strap the unit to select all four outputs as
active, it will put out all of its power into whatever you have hooked up
to it, so if you only have two or three strobes rated for normal
automotive emergency vehicle use you will burn up the strobes. Whelen
strobes on the other hand should be rated to take this higher power (I
haven't seen the ratings for the Whelen strobes, but since they make an
equivalent high-watt power supply I assume the strobes must also be rated
to handle it). I think the airflow cooling the bulbs helps them
dissipate more heat than a strobe on a ground-bound emergency vehicle
can.
As far as the power dissipated into a 3 strobe system, the NOVA system
can be set up to work just like the Whelen HDA-CF system. The NOVA flash
pattern when strapped for high power quintuple flash mode is heads 1and 3
(flashing simultaneously) alternating with heads 2 and 4
(simultaneously). So for example you could set up the system with heads
1 and 3 going to your two wingtips, and head 2 going to your tail strobe,
and just leave 4 disconnected. The result will be that your wingtip
strobes will flash together at 70 fpm and each strobe will get 22.5 W /
18.75 J, and your tail strobe will also flash 70 fpm but alternating the
wingtips and it will get 45 W / 37.5 J (since strobe 4 is disconnected,
the tail strobe gets twice the energy). Even though the Whelen system is
only a 3 head system it does the exact same thing (with *slightly* more
power).....each wingtip gets 21 joules simulatneously and then the tail
gets 42 joules).
I had intended to use the system this way with 3 strobes since the tail
light assembly I received with my second-hand empennage kit is a Whelen
A500 assembly that has the strobe/white nav light combination. But after
connecting it to the power supply I found that the strobe does not work
and it costs about $110 to replace it (gasp!) so I decided to just use it
as a nav light for now and only run the wingtip strobes. This still
works pretty well because if you alternate the wingtip strobes (lets say
you connect the wingtips to 1 and 2 and leave 3 and 4 disconnected) then
you get 45 W / 37.5 J into EACH wingtip which is twice what the wingtips
get in the 3 strobe setup. Eliminating the tail strobe saves a bit of
wiring weight to the tail and the wingtip strobes still provide 360
degree coverage around the aircraft. So this is how I'm going for now.
(Side note: you might ask if I'm only running two strobes, why not get a
2-strobe power supply instead of 4-strobe? Because I'm not aware of a 90
watt 2 strobe power supply....you can get 2- strobe supplies but they are
usually rated more like 40-50 W. Remember the whole trick here is to use
a commercial / non-aviation supply to get HIGH POWER like we want in an
airplane.....which in this case means taking the energy intended for 4
emergency vehicle strobes and dump it all into 2 or 3 aviation strobes.)
Sorry if this is long and wordy but I don't know how else to clarify it,
and this stuff is all info that I had the same questions about. Hope
it's clear and helpful, if not ask me again and I'll try again....or call
me (319) 393-4234.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"
p.s.--went scud-running today with a flight of two -6A's trying to make
it to the Red Wing, MN fly-in....it got pretty bad around the MN-IA
border so we had to turn around.....hope others had better luck....
writes:
>Mark...
>
>Ok, now I see the specifications... Wow, these really seem like a
>good way
>to go... I guess if your only using 3 strobes, it will be ok?
>
>-Bill
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bill VonDane [mailto:n8vd(at)earthlink.net]
>Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2001 8:39 AM
>To: czechsix(at)juno.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Cometflash on a beer budget
>
>
>Mark...
>
>How did you determine the brightness of these power supplies? I don't
>see
>where they rate theirs by joules... And I don't see on Whelen's site
>where
>they do any rating in watts...
>
>These PS's seem like a great deal, I just need more info...
>
>Thanks...
>
>Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
>RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage, O320-E3D/Sterba
>http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
Hey Kieth, someday when your butt is suspended a few thousand feet above the
ground in an aluminum shell you pounded together yourself in your garage, you
will find some peace of mind knowing that the big fan is being powered by the
most reliable internal combustion device currently available. Money matters
at this time should soon dis-appear.
Just my opinion
Kevin in WA finishing 994KS
O-320 D2J
In a message dated 4/21/01 5:06:05 PM, sbuc(at)hiwaay.net writes:
>Yes, too much coffee can do powerful things..... :-)
>
>One thing it can do is dramatically reduce the range of an aircraft, but
>I digress. :-(
>
>Keith, I sympathize with your "sticker shock" concerning prices of
>Lycomings (even though I wonder how you could be building or flying an
>RV6 without having already researched the going prices of engines). Most
>of us have had to take a few deep breaths when getting ready to shell
>out serious cash for an engine.
>
>However, in spite of the engines being seemingly overpriced, I must
>defend their reliability. It is true that the basic technology of the
>Lycoming is rooted in 1930's agriculture (Continental made a good
>reputation building tractor motors), but it is also true that the
>technology still works very well. Yes, the design of the engine and
>components is archaic, but it still works better than any current
>alternatives, all things considered. There are various auto and other
>conversions available, but they require much more engineering on the
>part of the builder than a Lycoming installation, and they have yet to
>prove in huge numbers of hours and installations their long-term
>viability. Most of the conversion folks admit that in the long run, they
>have not saved a great deal of money over a Lycoming when all the R&D is
>considered.
>
>Flying an airplane is expensive. Period.
>
>Before we get too torqued out of shape over the antiquity of the design
>of our engines, we need to remember that the RV's we love to build and
>fly likewise possess archaic roots. The basic, aluminum, monocoque tail
>plane airframe dates back to, well........, the 1930's, same as our
>engines! The basic flight instruments in most RV's likewise trace their
>roots to 1930 pitot instruments.
>
>I realize I have not soothed your pain. However, I don't think Lycoming
>is in any danger of being driven out of business soon because the market
>just hasn't produced a good alternative, yet......, to a Lycoming. The
>"lawnmower" carb will give you hundreds of hours of reliable service, as
>will the "tractor" magnetos.
>
>Good luck with your engine hunting,
>
>Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with mostly 1930's technology except the RMI stuff
>and the Lowrance 100)
>"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
>==================
>
>
>Keith Hughes wrote:
>>
>>
>> Permit me to vent a little, here (too much coffee).
>>
>> As someone who is in the middle of searching for my first quality,
>> affordable engine, I am astounded at the price that Lycoming is demanding
>> for these engines. My wife's BMW was less than the cost of a new Lycosaur
>> and is light-years ahead in technology. Hell, my truck engine is the
>Star
>> Ship Enterprise compared to these things. I recently had the "opportunity"
>> to see a carb (Marvell, I think) and I'm not sure I'd put that thing
>on a
>> lawnmower. So now to hear that these guys have known that their design
>of
>> dripping oil, is less than perfect comes as little shock. Well, I guess
>> they have only had 40 or so years to fix it. I know, I can hear all
>the old
>> A&P's out there chuckling, saying , "The kid is just now getting it."
> I
>> guess I was thinking that the free market would correct it. (Thank you
>trial
>> lawyers).
>>
>> To sum up this little rant, if there is anyone from Lycoming out there,
>I
>> can't wait for the day at some fly-in where we are all sitting around
>over
>> our pancakes, chuckling at the memory of your defunct company while we
>all
>> have some new, reasonable engine tucked under the hood.
>>
>> And I hope you guys are all selling used pintos. With O-320's under
>the
>> hood.
>>
>> Keith (Geeeeze, man. Switch to de-caf.) Hughes
>> Parker, CO
>> RV-6 (still searching)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: proseal mix ratio screw up |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fran Malczynski" <ebafm(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
Mark, sorry this is late, but thanks for the reply on the part number for
the primer induction tube clamps.
Really appreciate it.
Finished my wiring today.....
Fran Malczynski
RV6 - N594EF
Olcott, NY
----- Original Message -----
From: <Markdews(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 09:04
Subject: RV-List: (no subject)
>
>
> >I'm just about finished plumbing up my engine and I'm looking for a
primer
> line >clamp .that I heard about that goes around the induction tubes and
has
> a dimple or >indentation on it that pefectly clamps an 1/8 in. primer line
> against the induction >tubes. I've searched the archives and cannot find
> anything that references these.
> >Has anyone done this and if you have do you have a part number and source
> where >I can get a couple of these?
> >I'm running an 0360-A2A
> >Thanks
>
> >Fran Malczynski
> >RV6 - N594EF (finishing)
> >Olcott, NY
>
> According to the Lycoming parts manual the part you want are
LW-18959-175-25
>
> Mark Dews 885SM (Reserved)
> RV-6A Finishing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
I really want to see a breakthrough in light aircraft engines,whether it
be auto conversions,diesel,turbine,or whatever.At the same time I cain't
help but notice that the people who sit behind Lycosaurs spend a lot of
time flying. A Lycoming will do it's very best to keep running ,
sometimes in spite of our best efforts.
Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
,
| Subject: | ANR Headset Conversion |
I have been thinking of converting two of my DC's to this exact system.
http://www.avweb.com/sponsors/headsets/index.html
They've been around a few years now and I've yet to hear anything bad about
them.
They run off a 9v battery that will last 20 hours. Does that mean a 9v
rechargeable will last slightly under 20 hours?
What I would like to source is a 9v battery charger that is very small and
runs on 12v. Does anyone know of one and a source? I want to run
re-chargeable batteries and have the ability to charge up dead ones in my
airplane. I have two cig lighter sockets in a really neat side panel in the
luggage compartment. There are two more on the bottom right of my panel just
above a pocket. I'll buy three batteries and rotate them when one dies.
I have ten year old DC 10-30's and 10-40's in perfect condition and would
rather upgrade these quality pieces than spend another couple of thousand
dollars on new fashion pieces.
Thanks,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Beaings |
All great tips need another. Go down to your local auto parts store and buy a
wheel bearing packer. It only cost a couple of bucks and makes bearing packing
a breeze. When not in use store the packer in a 1 gallon zip lock bag.
Gary
Richard Scott wrote:
>
> Good writeup from Eustace. One tip: To make the packing process a little
> less messy, put the bearing and grease in a plastic sandwich bag. You can
> then work it from outside the bag and keep mostly clean hands. The plastic
> also helps to work the grease between the bearings, since the grease can't
> slip past it.
>
> Dick Scott
> Starting a 6A, but planning to look at the 7.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
I just saw the new Super Rebel SR-3500 at my local airport yesterday (ten
thousands of pop rivets!). It uses a 9 cylinder radial engine made for
experimental aircraft. It produces 360hp and is surprisingly affordable at
~$15,000. I doubt you could fit it on any of the RV's but here's a link
anyway:
http://www.shadetreeusa.com/m14.htm
Are
RV-8 Wings
Will be using an IO-360 & C/S prop.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of BOBE.
Sent: April 22, 2001 10:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: #3 cylinder
I really want to see a breakthrough in light aircraft engines,whether it
be auto conversions,diesel,turbine,or whatever.At the same time I cain't
help but notice that the people who sit behind Lycosaurs spend a lot of
time flying. A Lycoming will do it's very best to keep running ,
sometimes in spite of our best efforts.
Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 4/22/01 10:46:13 AM, abarstad(at)sympatico.ca writes:
>I just saw the new Super Rebel SR-3500 at my local airport yesterday (ten
>thousands of pop rivets!). It uses a 9 cylinder radial engine made for
>experimental aircraft. It produces 360hp and is surprisingly affordable
>at
>~$15,000. I doubt you could fit it on any of the RV's but here's a link
>anyway:
>http://www.shadetreeusa.com/m14.htm
Are, I have been following this too, just wondering how wide the fuse is
going to be on the 4-place.. would make an interesting looking AC dont you
think?
Kevin in WA -9A finishing stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Hollifield <billhollifield(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | VARSOL vs. Paint Thinner |
Any difference between using VARSOL and plain old paint thinner (i.e.
mineral spirits) available usually as a house brand at most home or paint
stores?
Bill Hollifield
Owning a Bonanza, thinking about an RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Peltor Headset Question (not building related) |
> Good point, the softer ear plugs are very comfortable and really do help.
I
> spent a few years behind a P & W 985 in a Beaver and used the shaped soft
foam
> plugs plus a DC headset and still have good hearing. I prefer the shaped
foam
> plugs to the cut foam style plug. They are much more comfortable even
after 5 or
> 6 hr..
I spent five years wearing the cut foam ear plugs (untapered cylinders) for
ten hours a day driving ready mix concrete trucks. They were alright but
late in that career the shaped (tapered) ones came out (pink only) and they
were more comfortable. I beleived in never taking them out to keep the
insides of my ears cleaner. Even the back of the truck is noisy as the sound
of the concrete going down the chute is like fingernails on a chalkboard to
me. Also most loads go into the back of a stiff boom pump truck that is very
loud as well.
> > >
> > >>Hope no one gets upset at my asking this, but I am considering buying
a
> > >
> > >>Peltor 7006 headset and would sure appreciate any good, bad or
> > >indifferent
> > >>comments from the list on these units. Thanks.
And for the original poster, no one who matters is going to get upset at a
post like this. Do you see how large a thread it has become? You must be
proud at how much information sharing you just generated, it has been a
great thread.
I'm still building but I cherish the posts that are more slanted towards
flying RV's. It is interesting and motivational. I used to subscribe to 6
aviation mags a year, now I just read my computer. This list is a great
place to talk about flying and especially the optional equipment people are
using to do it. We all benefit when the good and bad get sorted out by
respectful public forum. Often with aviation products it's just the good and
the better though. I use this list as a way to determine the best value
between different products.
Stick around and don't be shy to post.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
I don't think that it is an experimental engine as the Chinese and Russia
have made thousands of them. I believe that the engine is found on some of
the Certified Russian acrobatic planes.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca>
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 12:42 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: #3 cylinder
>
> I just saw the new Super Rebel SR-3500 at my local airport yesterday (ten
> thousands of pop rivets!). It uses a 9 cylinder radial engine made for
> experimental aircraft. It produces 360hp and is surprisingly affordable at
> ~$15,000. I doubt you could fit it on any of the RV's but here's a link
> anyway:
> http://www.shadetreeusa.com/m14.htm
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
> Will be using an IO-360 & C/S prop.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of BOBE.
> Sent: April 22, 2001 10:11 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: #3 cylinder
>
>
> I really want to see a breakthrough in light aircraft engines,whether it
> be auto conversions,diesel,turbine,or whatever.At the same time I cain't
> help but notice that the people who sit behind Lycosaurs spend a lot of
> time flying. A Lycoming will do it's very best to keep running ,
> sometimes in spite of our best efforts.
>
> Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ANR Headset Conversion |
Norm,
You can do like I have done and get a DC voltage reducer that plugs into
a hidden cigarette lighter socket. Cost $10 @ Wal-Mart or radio Shack. When
the cigarette lighter socket is powered, so is the ANR.
John Henley, N6LD, 450 Hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: proseal mix ratio screw up |
In a message dated 4/21/01 7:41:11 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
writes:
<< I was wondering why my proseal is not curing some after several hrs >>
Bob: I can't tell you whether yours will set up or not but I can tell you
that when I did my tanks I very carefully proportioned the sealer and
hardener by weight and the stuff invariably took at least 48 hours or so to
set up. If I were in your position I would not do anything drastic for at
least four or five days to see if it won't harden. Good luck.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | proseal mix ratio screw up |
I sent this last night but it was rejected by the list for some reason. Matt
fixed it so Here goes again...
DO NOT drill out stiffeners and filler neck! It may take a bit longer for
full cure with your ratio but will still be ok. The end result (long time
before you fly) will be a full cure. You will have to wait a few days before
you see a good cure regardless. I think it took me almost 5-6 days in a 65
degree workshop to get a solid cure. After 36-48 hr's you may be able to
touch without getting it on you.
Are
RV-8 WIngs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
Sent: April 21, 2001 10:39 PM
Subject: RV-List: proseal mix ratio screw up
I was wondering why my proseal is not curing some after several hrs. I just
remembered phone rang during the mix, got in a hurry and probably mixed only
half the hardener. It ended up being 10:.5 instead of 10:1. My options are
to
drill out stiffiners and filler cap (first stage) of sealing. How stupid can
one be? DON'T ANSWER THAT. Anyone know if this stuff will still work with
ratio I used?
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT probes, IO-360, RV-8 |
Don,
Go with the longer distance. Your probes will last longer.
Bill RV-8 N48WD
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rv8don(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2001 10:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: EGT probes, IO-360, RV-8
>
> I'm preparing to install the EGT probes for the VM1000 system. The
recommendation is to place the probes 3.5" to 4.0" inches from the exhaust
flange. For those of you who have the Vetterman Cross over system on the
IO-360, cylinder #3 precludes placing the probe in this location due to the
slip joint in the exhaust. Others may be similar. Since having a
consistent distance from the flange is key for balanced EGT readings and the
3.5" - 4.0" recommended range is out due to the #3 slip joint issue. Is is
better to go closer or farther from the flange? I'm talking about either
being 1.5" or closer, or at least 4.5". Comments?
>
> Regards,
>
> -Don RV-8 NJ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Source for Oops rivets |
Does anyone know of a source of the 3/32 1097 Oops rivets? I called
Avery this week, but was told that they are no longer stocking rivets.
I also tried AC$, Wicks and Cleveland. Van's only has the 1/8 size.
The 3/32 are very handy in setting nutplates, as I'm sure many of you
know.
Jeff Point
-6 wings
Milwaukee WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Source for Oops rivets |
Jeff, I'd be glad to put a few in the mail to you. Contact me off list. Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan McKeen" <amckeen(at)twcny.rr.com> |
Regardless of the published warranty, I have found the GARMIN service to
be excellent. I purchased and installed one of the very earliest GNC
250 panel mounted GPS/Com. The unit had some early serial number
trouble that GARMIN has serviced three time over the past five years for
no charge. Their service department manager called me the last service
and stated that if this specific unit came back again that I would
receive a new GNC 250XL as a slide in replacement. The moving map would
be nice, but the unit has performed okay since that last repair.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
Anyone know of an RV-4 for sale? A friend is looking for one.
Let me know by e-mail.
Jerry Springer
jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Boost Pump Placement |
Charlie,
I am also installing an Airflow Performance fuel injection system. I mounted
the fuel pump assembly forward of the right side rudder pedals as low as
possible. My rudder pedal placement allows for plenty of clearence. Send
e-mail address. I will gladly send you pictures of what I have done.
Dave Gasper
Canton, Ohio
Dgcan2(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: VARSOL vs. Paint Thinner |
--> Any difference between using VARSOL and plain old paint thinner (i.e. mineral
spirits) available
usually as a house brand at most home or paint stores? <--
"Varsol" is a brand name for mineral spirits marketed by Imperial Oil and Exxon
Corp. and therefore
is identical and interchangeable.
Bob McC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel bearings -was Wheel Beaings |
Info seeking listers,
Some recent messages to do with wheel bearings have been
archived under the subject title Wheel beaings by mistreak.
this message is intended as a pointer just in case some of them would be
missed by searching under the correct spelling
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 10:02 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wheel Beaings
>
> All great tips need another. Go down to your local auto parts store and
buy a
> wheel bearing packer. It only cost a couple of bucks and makes bearing
packing
> a breeze. When not in use store the packer in a 1 gallon zip lock bag.
>
> Gary
>
> Richard Scott wrote:
>
> >
> > Good writeup from Eustace. One tip: To make the packing process a
little
> > less messy, put the bearing and grease in a plastic sandwich bag. You
can
> > then work it from outside the bag and keep mostly clean hands. The
plastic
> > also helps to work the grease between the bearings, since the grease
can't
> > slip past it.
> >
> > Dick Scott
> > Starting a 6A, but planning to look at the 7.
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: VARSOL vs. Paint Thinner |
Hello listers,
Please Avoid the use of Any low flash point chemicals as a parts cleaning
medium. And don't think you can get away with it "just this once". I have a
friend that is hard to recognize now, he was in a rush but static
electricity caught up to him.
His home was insured, but it didn't cover his hand and face!
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca>
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 8:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: VARSOL vs. Paint Thinner
>
> --> Any difference between using VARSOL and plain old paint thinner (i.e.
mineral spirits) available
> usually as a house brand at most home or paint stores? <--
>
> "Varsol" is a brand name for mineral spirits marketed by Imperial Oil and
Exxon Corp. and therefore
> is identical and interchangeable.
>
> Bob McC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: VARSOL vs. Paint Thinner |
What are some examples of... Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cometflash on a beer budget |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Bill,
According to Eugene Abel at NOVA (quote from an e-mail he sent me):
"Yes, quintuple flash is only available with all outlets enabled.
You won't damage the power supply, but it will damage the heads:
It will overheat the strobe heads if you connect only 2 strobe heads
(each head will receive 45 Watts of power).
Standard heads are rated at 32 Watts, Microthin heads are
only rated at 20 Watts max."
Eugene was responding to my first inquiry in this e-mail and I had not
told him I was using aviation strobes, hence the warning that I would
damage the heads. But to answer your first question, the rating for the
power supply is 90 W / 80 J (my installation guide says 75 Joules) for
the ENTIRE FLASH CYCLE that it goes through. Since the quintuple flash
mode cycle is 1& 3 alternating with 2&4 to complete ONE CYCLE, the 90 W /
80 J energy would be divided equally between the two wingtip strobes if
you hooked the wingtips up to 1 and 2 and left 3 and 4 disconnected.
I know the Whelen Cometflash HDA-CF 3 strobe power supply when used with
all three strobes puts out 21 Joules to EACH wingtip strobe at the same
time, and then 42 joules to the tailstrobe which is an A500 in the kit
Vans and other companies sell. So you won't have any problem if you use
the NOVA X-PAK 904 with the Whelen strobes....you'll send approx 20
Joules to each wingtip at the same time and then 40 joules to the tail.
You would hook the wingtips up to 1&3, the tail to 2, and leave 4
disconnected. At least this is the way Eugene at NOVA explained it.
In response to your last question, when I spoke with Eugene by phone I
did (reluctantly) tell him I was putting the X-PAK in an experimental
aircraft. He didn't seem to have a problem with this, but remember, he's
in tech support so he's just thinking technically and not about defending
it in court. I did NOT tell the vendor I bought the system from (Strobes
N' More) that I was putting it in an aircraft, I suspect like many
vendors they might refuse to sell it to me if I said the word "aircraft."
But I don't think it will affect the warranty at all.....the warranty
doesn't say you can't put it in an airplane and there's no way they'll
know unless you tell them. If it quits in the next 5 years, send it back
to them and they'll repair or replace it. Unless you physically broke it
or dunked it in water, there's not much you can do to hurt it since it
has all the standard protection features (reverse voltage, output shorts,
strobe failures, etc).
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"
---------------------------
writes:
>Hey Mark... Ok, I have a question...
>
> "if you alternate the wingtip strobes (lets say you connect
>the wingtips to
>1 and 2 and leave 3 and 4 disconnected) then you get 45 W /
>37.5 J into
>EACH wingtip which is twice what the wingtips get in the 3
>strobe setup."
>
>In looking at the specs on the Nova site, if you get the X-Pack 904
>@90
>watts & 80 joules and you set it up to power the wings alternately,
>you will
>be pushing 80 joules to each strobe and I don't think even the Whelens
>will
>take that for too long...
>
>I am going to be installing Van's sheared wingtips with Whelen A650's
>recessed into the tips (just like on the new RV-7), and an A500 on
>the
>tail...
>
>Before I go with a Nova PS, I will want to contact Whelen to see how
>much
>the A500 will take and get a PS that will put that out to one strobe,
>it
>will Probably be the Micro-Pak 404MF or 504MF...
>
>Did you tell the tech you were planning on installing it in an
>airplane?
>Did he say anything about warranty?
>
>Thanks...
>
>-Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lycoming competition....was #3 cylinder |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
On the subject of competition to Lycoming, it looks like both ECI and
Superior are going ahead with improved versions of the O-360 at a lower
cost than Lycoming. From what I've read they have incorporated
improvements in the oil lubrication system in the crankcase (which could
solve the issue of #1 and #3 lube problems), plus other advances in
metallurgy, etc. I wholeheartedly agree that overall the Lyc is still a
pretty reliable powerplant but I also think that in spite of the costs of
certification, litigation, etc, Lycoming could have done a LOT to improve
their powerplants over the years. Many improvements, such as the
crankcase lubrication system, would have been relatively simple and
inexpensive to improve.....these aren't radical design changes that carry
a lot of R&D and risk to implement. I have sensed an attitude of
disinterest on their part in actively improving their product, and this
is probably because of a lack of competition. Well, now competition is
on the way and as long as Superior and ECI are going head to head with
the newer O-360's I wouldn't mind if Lycoming just went the way of the
dinosaurs (in fact it might even be satisfying : )
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, overpriced runout Lycosaur O-360-A4A, and Sensenich 87"
-------------
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: #3 cylinder
I realize I have not soothed your pain. However, I don't think Lycoming
is in any danger of being driven out of business soon because the market
just hasn't produced a good alternative, yet......, to a Lycoming. The
"lawnmower" carb will give you hundreds of hours of reliable service, as
will the "tractor" magnetos.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with mostly 1930's technology except the RMI stuff
and the Lowrance 100)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cometflash on a beer budget |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Rob,
The phone number for White Aircraft Salvage in KS City is 1-800-821-7733.
I talked to Jeremy Nation there and he was very helpful, even sent me
nice pictures by e-mail of the strobes before I purchased them. At the
time he had several sets to choose from. One of my friends called him a
few days ago though, and he was all out. Of course almost every aircraft
they get has Whelen strobes so he should have more in soon. You could
also try Wentworth in Minneapolis at 1-800-493-6896. Or Air Salvage of
Dallas (don't have their phone number in front of me but it's on their
website at www.asod.com......call them and ask for Lucky).
At NOVA Electronics I spoke with Eugene Abel in tech support. Their
number is (860) 537-3471 or e-mail nova(at)strobe.com. I actually bought
the X-PAK 904 power supply, the strobe wiring, and AMP connectors from
"Strobes N' More" (there's a link for them on NOVA's website at
http://www.strobe.com/ordering.htm).
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"
-----------------
>> Then I got some used #A650 Whelen nav/strobe assemblies from White
>air
>> salvage in KS City, total $140 (they look and work good, just need
>> paint). I already had a white tail nav light that came with my
>> second-
>
>Mark,
>
>Thanks so much for sharing your research and findings to the RV list.
>Now
>that Mr. Taxman has taken all my airplane finishing money, I'm
>definitely on
>a beer budget (generic label is fine thank you ).
>
>Do you have a contact phone number (for White Air salvage), and
>possibly a
>name of who you worked with (both at White Air and Nova) that would
>be
>familiar with your setup? I want the same setup on my bird.
>
>Thanks, Rob (RV-6QB, painting and then finishing interior).
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Induction Systems LONG |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
04/23/2001 08:19:32 AM
Hi Bill,
You have hit on my most recent research project. I am starting to install
an IO-320 out of a twin comanche in my -6. I absolutely want to retain the
bendix injection and I absolutely do NOT want the cowl snout inlet that
most RV's have. My motivation is purely cosmetic and has no basis in
percieved performance gains or other wizbang things like that.
While at SNF I spoke with anyone I could about this. If you notice lots of
tubo aircraft are using NACA ducts for their induction. Look at the Lancair
IV and many Glassair III's. I spoke with a company (sorry cant remember the
name) that installed turbo systems and specifically asked their engineer if
a NACA duct on the lower cowl would work. He said it absolutely would just
be sure your inlet would be about 20% larger than the inlet on the
induction. The goal is to not loose MP. Along that line I asked several
airflow types how much MP increase was it realistically possible to gain
from ram air effect, both said less than 1 inch of MP. I was a little
suprised at that, I told them I expected 1.5 or so. They both laughed at me
and politely said that I was in turbo territory at a 1.5 gain. They both
told me to just try not to loose above ambient.
The Twin Comanche uses the air off the rear right baffle much like most oil
coolers are mounted. I still have the baffeling on the engine and it would
be a breeze to hook this up. The consensus was that this is not really what
I want to do. Everyone really shyed away from stealing warmed air from the
cylinders. The favorite food of inductions systems seems to be cool air. So
the back baffle is out.
Now look at the new Piper single engines. All have naca ducts on the sides
of the cowl. So does Mooney, LoPresti mod cowls, Lancair IV the NACA
induction seems to be the thing. The Piper uses a real easy setup. I've got
some photos I'll send if you'd like.
Last option, which is really tempting me. I spoke with Mark Frederick and
his cowling guru. First look at the induction on the cowl of Marks Rocket.
Its right off a P-51. He runs over six feet of scat tubing off of that. It
runs from the induction down the cowl and around the rear at the firewall
to his rear mounted servo. He said its a real bitch to get his lower cowl
off. But the setup works fine. His F-1 kits are starting to use a forward
mounted servo and because of this the F-1's have a new induction scoop that
is really slick. It is still under the prop but is slightly removed from
the cowl line. It has its own neat inline air filter and then will rund
directly into your servo. I believe your servo is forward mounted. This is
the installation for you. If not I'll bet you can change your sump to make
it forward mounted. All you need is a the sump from a Decathalon. I spoke
with Marks cowl guy, Marcus. They might come up with an induction add on
specifically for RV's. In the mean time the F-1 induction system is a
smaller sub unit that is not part of the cowl. It was three pieces and the
whole thing was about a foot wide by about 2.5 feet long. It would be worth
checking out I think.
So thats what I know so far about the induction game. Everything else will
be learned shortly with the help of West Marine resin, elbow grease,
profanity and the blatant theft of other peoples ideas.
One point I want to make that I have always asked anyone I spoke with. If
you get it wrong you are not going to loose you engine, just some MP. I
have not spoken with anyone that has said this is dangerous if you approach
it with some common sense. As one guy put it, does your engine quit at the
top of a hammer head? You've got noting but ambient induction air at that
point.
I'll keep ya posted
Eric Henson
Bill VonDane (at)matronics.com on 04/20/2001 04:38:34
PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Induction Systems
Hi all...
Was wonder what people think of using a NACA vent for feeding the
carburetor
vs. the standard snorkel configuration vs. the induction system used by the
IO360 vs. using ambient air from inside the cowl?
Thanks...
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Benson, Bradley" <bbenson(at)trane.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 QB lead times |
You got lucky! I ordered my 6AQB November 11th of last year, and took
delivery of it in mid March. Some people have all the luck :-).
Cheers,
Brad - RV6AQB
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary J. Strong [mailto:gstrong(at)qwest.net]
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 7:57 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-8 QB lead times
Ben,
you want to call to be sure. When I ordered my RV6QB, the web said 6 months
lead, and it shipped about 3 weeks after I ordered it. I asked about why
the web said 6 months, and the person said that way people don't get
aggravate if it takes longer.
Gary - RV6AQB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Twin Comanche Prop |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
04/23/2001 10:06:28 AM
Anyone know of anyone flying a CS prop off a twin comanche on their Rv? I
know lots of Lancair 320's use the props with stops on the prop and
governor to prevent feathering. Just wondering if anyone had put one on an
RV yet.
Any stories about alternate CS props would be apreciated
Thanks
Eric Henson
Wheel Pants
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net> |
| Subject: | AN Fittings etc. |
Hi You all,
I searched all my notes and pieces of paper laying
around and could not find some old scribblings about how to join plastic
tubing to AN fittings, such as joining the plastic pitot line from the
airspeed etc., to the 1/4" aluminum line coming from the wing.
Anybody remember how its done ?
Another example is, I have a bulkhead tee feeding air to a manifold pressure
gauge, and need another plastic air supply from the tee that must attach to
a push-on barb fitting on another device...any ideas ?
The push-on barb fitting is built into the unit and I can't change it.
Austin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Twin Comanche Prop |
--- Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
>
>
> Anyone know of anyone flying a CS prop off a twin comanche on their
> Rv? I
> know lots of Lancair 320's use the props with stops on the prop and
> governor to prevent feathering. Just wondering if anyone had put one
> on an
> RV yet.
>
> Any stories about alternate CS props would be apreciated
>
> Thanks
>
> Eric Henson
> Wheel Pants
>
Eric:
Randy Thorne put a Twin Comanche firewall forward installation on an
RV-4 (N144RS) about 8-10 years ago. Required sump (induction system)
change on the engine. (changed to an updraft configuration)
The prop blades were used with a different hub. The prop extension on
the Twin Comanche prop was way too long to fit in the old standard (not
constant speed) cowl that the RV-4 use to use. To fit in the cowl, an
extended hub is still needed. This extended hub is rated at only 3.8
or 4.4 G so it limits your aerobatic capabilities.
The bottom line is that it can be made to work but it will not just
bolt right on. Unless you work in a prop shop, this installation may
cost more in the long run.
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Twin Comanche Prop |
I am fitting one to my RV8A, now, and trying to use the nice spinner and
backing plate it came with...however on examination it looks like the cowl
won't fit as it is...I am also using the conical mount 0320 engine...do you
know of anyone who might help with this cowl..I also want to use cam
locks....jolly
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
>
> Anyone know of anyone flying a CS prop off a twin comanche on their Rv? I
> know lots of Lancair 320's use the props with stops on the prop and
> governor to prevent feathering. Just wondering if anyone had put one on an
> RV yet.
>
> Any stories about alternate CS props would be apreciated
>
> Thanks
>
> Eric Henson
> Wheel Pants
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nick Harris" <nharris25(at)yahoo.com> |
----- Original Message -----
From: Nick Harris
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 10:15 AM
Subject: RV-7
WHAT'S EVERYONE THINK OF THE RV-7?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AN Fittings etc. |
Try this link and see if it answers some of your questions.
Mike Nellis
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
RV-6 N699BM (reserved)N
Plainfield, IL (LOT)
Building Flaps
http://bmnellis.com
>
> Hi You all,
> I searched all my notes and pieces of paper laying
> around and could not find some old scribblings about how to join plastic
> tubing to AN fittings, such as joining the plastic pitot line from the
> airspeed etc., to the 1/4" aluminum line coming from the wing.
> Anybody remember how its done ?
> Another example is, I have a bulkhead tee feeding air to a manifold
pressure
> gauge, and need another plastic air supply from the tee that must attach
to
> a push-on barb fitting on another device...any ideas ?
> The push-on barb fitting is built into the unit and I can't change it.
> Austin.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "russell parr" <rrparr12(at)hotmail.com> |
seaok71302(at)juno.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | 1979 AA5A for sale |
1979 AA5A for Sale:
The good part: 380 hr SMOH, new lycoming cylinders massaged by Bill Scott,
burns one quart of oil every 15 hours, I think most goes down the belly, oil
analysis since new (all good), engine compartment "Carolized" by Carol
Scott, 160 hp conversion, all internal engine machine work done by ASA in
Tulsa, engine internally balanced, Peterson auto fuel STC for 91 octane gas
for the 160 hp conversion(runs great on car gas), EDM 700 engine monitor,
skytech starter, all engine accessories new or yellow tagged. New aft
spinner bulkhead. New ELT. New Sigronics four place portable intercom
included, spin on oil filter conversion, I'm throwing in eight gallons of
Phillips 20W/50W, DG spins but I'm including an extra yellow tagged DG, 52
gallon fuel. Annual due in August, I can get a fresh annual on it when sold.
I bought it in Nov 1999. It had 950 hrs TT, now has 1330 TT. It flys
great and runs strong.
The truth in advertising part: original paint, white with orange and tan
stripes, could be better, original upholstry, in OK shape but tan and
orange, original windows are somewhat dark from age and sun damage, master
cylinders on brakes need to be rebuilt, they leak but are flyable, rudder
trailing edge near top dinged by me pushing it out of the hanger (flown it
150 hours since the ding), main wheel pants removed (they are the original
Royalite and the left one is broken, nose wheel pant original and installed,
its OK), original radios and transponder, all work (the frequency view
window on one radio is inaccurate but the radio tunes and works fine, the
left tank has a leak at the outboard rib under the main spar, it seeps fuel
with more than 8 gallons in the tank.
If I were keeping the airplane I would: paint it, replace the windows,
change the ugly orange interior, buy and install fiberglass wheel pants,
rebuild the brake master cylinders, buy a new rudder from Fletchair ($900),
get the prop yellow tagged.
Selling it because my kids are too big now to all ride in it and I am about
to finish my RV-4, two airplanes would be cool but I can't afford it.
Airplane is in Enid, OK. Asking $55,000 Please e-mail directly to me if
interested. Russ Parr rrparr12(at)hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AN Fittings etc. |
Oopppsss, no linky no worky.
http://bmnellis.com/WingSkinning3.htm
>
> Try this link and see if it answers some of your questions.
>
> >
> > Hi You all,
> > I searched all my notes and pieces of paper laying
> > around and could not find some old scribblings about how to join plastic
> > tubing to AN fittings, such as joining the plastic pitot line from the
> > airspeed etc., to the 1/4" aluminum line coming from the wing.
> > Anybody remember how its done ?
> > Another example is, I have a bulkhead tee feeding air to a manifold
> pressure
> > gauge, and need another plastic air supply from the tee that must attach
> to
> > a push-on barb fitting on another device...any ideas ?
> > The push-on barb fitting is built into the unit and I can't change it.
> > Austin.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Induction Systems LONG |
Eric--
You talked to the wrong people at SNF about ram air. The Super 6 has a
straight line inlet tube from the cowling to the Bendix FI body. The
cowl inlet was designed by a guy who works up heating/cooling
systems--the main goal was to reduce turbulence at the cowl inlet. I
get a proven 1.5 - 1.7 increase in MAP with the ram air as opposed to
filtered air. The ram air tube has a door that is operated from the
cockpit, so it can be closed while taxiing to prevent FOD ingestion.
The filtered air enters behind the ram air door. The air filter is a
standard Brackett unit with a square inch filter area more than adequate
for a pumped up IO-540.
I can send you photos and dimensions, if you're interested.
Boyd Braem
N600SS
RAM AIR SUCKS!!!!
>
>
> Hi Bill,
>
> You have hit on my most recent research project. I am starting to install
> an IO-320 out of a twin comanche in my -6. I absolutely want to retain the
> bendix injection and I absolutely do NOT want the cowl snout inlet that
> most RV's have. My motivation is purely cosmetic and has no basis in
> percieved performance gains or other wizbang things like that.
>
> While at SNF I spoke with anyone I could about this. If you notice lots of
> tubo aircraft are using NACA ducts for their induction. Look at the Lancair
> IV and many Glassair III's. I spoke with a company (sorry cant remember the
> name) that installed turbo systems and specifically asked their engineer if
> a NACA duct on the lower cowl would work. He said it absolutely would just
> be sure your inlet would be about 20% larger than the inlet on the
> induction. The goal is to not loose MP. Along that line I asked several
> airflow types how much MP increase was it realistically possible to gain
> from ram air effect, both said less than 1 inch of MP. I was a little
> suprised at that, I told them I expected 1.5 or so. They both laughed at me
> and politely said that I was in turbo territory at a 1.5 gain. They both
> told me to just try not to loose above ambient.
>
>
> Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
> S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Source for Oops rivets |
Jeff,
Van's does have 3/32" oops rivets in -3, -3.5 and -4 lengths. For some
reason I couldn't find them in the online catalog but they are on page 54 of
the 2000 printed catalog. I recently ordered some of all three lengths. I
can bring some to tomorrow's Chapter 18 meeting if you need a few.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Canopy
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
Does anyone know of a source of the 3/32 1097 Oops rivets? I called
Avery this week, but was told that they are no longer stocking rivets.
I also tried AC$, Wicks and Cleveland. Van's only has the 1/8 size.
The 3/32 are very handy in setting nutplates, as I'm sure many of you
know.
Jeff Point
-6 wings
Milwaukee WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Twin Comanche Prop |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
04/23/2001 01:35:32 PM
Jolly,
I called a guy at a reputable prop shop, he said I would find what you are
finding. The prop won't fit the cowl. Get ready to start glassin, maybe
changing out the prop hub is an option. This might lead you to changing out
your governor too. If you want to talk to a good prop shop you can call
Palm beach Propeller @ 561-965-7767
old ogre (at)matronics.com on 04/23/2001 10:41:58 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Twin Comanche Prop
I am fitting one to my RV8A, now, and trying to use the nice spinner and
backing plate it came with...however on examination it looks like the cowl
won't fit as it is...I am also using the conical mount 0320 engine...do you
know of anyone who might help with this cowl..I also want to use cam
locks....jolly
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
>
> Anyone know of anyone flying a CS prop off a twin comanche on their Rv? I
> know lots of Lancair 320's use the props with stops on the prop and
> governor to prevent feathering. Just wondering if anyone had put one on
an
> RV yet.
>
> Any stories about alternate CS props would be apreciated
>
> Thanks
>
> Eric Henson
> Wheel Pants
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Brick" <jbrick(at)wolfenet.com> |
Contact Bob Brooks Olympia Washington, (360) 866-8058. He is helping the
family of RV builder Al Hastings who passed away recently due to heart
problems. The RV-4 project is in the finishing kit stage. The engine is
hung, an AEIO-360-A1B with constant speed prop and electronic ignition. $40
K...will sell engine separately.
jb
Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jerry Springer
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 7:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: Need RV-4
Anyone know of an RV-4 for sale? A friend is looking for one.
Let me know by e-mail.
Jerry Springer
jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Typical Manifold Pressures |
What are typical manifold pressures (normally aspirated and carbureted) seen
with Lycoming powered RV's having a conventional air intake? I've checked
the archives and can't find a specific answer to this question.
For example, assuming MAP gauge shows 30.0 before startup, what would one
expect at full throttle when beginning takeoff roll? 29"? 28"? less?
What about the MAP boost from ram air pressure? 1"? 2"?
Thanks
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | angle drill rebuilding |
Thread-Topic: angle drill rebuilding
Thread-Index: AcDMJ7TNaxP3KtInS4OKYSJEds7UWA=
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Hi Folks,
I need to have my Thor angle drill rebuilt. Can any of you guys out
there point me to someone who can rebuild it, for cheaper than what it
would cost me to just get another used one? The threaded portion which
takes the drill bit seems to be a bit sloppy, looks like new oversize
ball-bearings would fix it. There are no carriers for the balls or
rollers so when I took the drill apart they all fell out, and it would
be a job to get it all back together.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 115 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | MA-4-SPA carb questions |
Listers:
I believe I have pinpointed my rough engine trouble that I thought was vapor
lock but apparently isn't. Recall from my latest post that the vapor
pressure tests on the mogas (and avgas) that I've been burning showed no
problems with high volatility.
Yesterday, while showing a non-pilot passenger what the controls did, I
performed a gentle pull-up followed by a gentle push-over. I estimate we got
down to maybe 1/4 G; nothing was floating in the cockpit, but the engine
responded with an immediate and sustained return to rough running like I had
experienced before in moderately choppy air. It took several seconds to
smooth out, but return to full positive G seemed to do it. The boost pump
was already on, and no throttle changes had been made, so it wasn't ice.
I combine this observation with one I made last week, that my plane, on
random and rare occasions during roll-out on turf runways, exhibitrs lots of
black smoke and stoppage or near-stoppage of the engine if things get a bit
bouncy on the ground. There seems to be no escaping the conclusion that
things are set up too rich in there...
My O-320 has a Cessna-172 carb with the main jet drilled out to #37 (it was
#43 at first), and I was having a serious case of the in-flight stumbles and
could only lean about 50 degrees worth of EGT delta before the modification.
Unlike Gary Corde, who has posted much on this problem, I was not willing to
remove, open, modify, reassemble and reinstall the carb each time I changed
the jet orifice one drill size, so I bit it off all in one piece, went
straight to #37 bore - Woah! - probably overshot a bit. Now I lean about 1/2
inch of mixture travel at all times just to compensate.
Until I tear into the carb this weekend, I won't really know if this is a jet
problem, or a float setting, or a damaged needle and seat (rubber and mogas
issue?) or something else I haven't thought of yet. I am thinking of backing
up a few sizes on the jet diameter, and wonder if it is feasible to braze or solder some metal back into the jet so I can redrill
it smaller (like the carpenter who throws the 2x4 back down to his helper and
says "Cut it longer!") I hate to part with over $100 for a new jet,
especially if I am going to wind up taking a drill to the new one eventually.
I hoped that the 160hp upgrade was going to take up some of the slack in the
jetting (I am told they require more fuel or a richer mix at 160 hp that at
150.) If the compression hop-up made any difference in the richness, I can't
really tell it. It seems I am still too rich at the jet and having to
compensate by leaning more aggressively.
I just know someone is going to ask me the EGT temp spread I now get at 160
hp from full rich to lean-rough, and I don't recall, but it used to be well
over 200 degrees at 150 hp, and somewhat less with the new pistons, since
peak EGT's dropped about 100 degrees with the mod. Let me guess it's about
150 degrees, okay? I will look next time I'm up.
Personally, my hunch is that the jet is a minor issue compared to the floats
and needle/seat, as far as my particular problem is concerned. My hope is to
have on hand all replacement parts I am likely to need when I tear into this
project this Friday. Yeah, right... Any tips on how to proceed, whom to ask
for specifications/jetting recommendations, where to source parts, shared war
stories, etc would be appreciated. Should I just swap my carb out for a
rebuilt with a different jet? I have searched the archives on the carb
jetting and rich/lean issues; some of what is in there is of dubious value
since I was the author. I do plan to call Precision Airmotive and perhaps
even Van's tech help desk, but the List just seems so much faster and in many
ways more valuable as a resource.
Thanks again, gang!
Bill Boyd
RV-6A 175 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Induction Systems LONG |
Boyd,
I would be interested in seeing pics and drawings. Sounds like a good
system.
John Henley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Buckling Firewall on an RV-4 |
Hi Guys & Gals,
I have 2 RV-4's, one I bought and one I built (and continue to build).
- Problem is the one I bought has a firewall that has buckled on both sides
(right down by the gear leg/engine mount attach)
- Question is "Has anyone else seen this, is so what causes it, and if I
tear her apart & put in a new firewall will it happen again?"
Thank you, in advance, for your assistance. Oh yeah, I did call
Van's... their response was that it is not a common problem but it is also
not un-heard of and that the firewall is not structural so no big deal just
watch it and see what happens. I have been and the buckles continue to
grow.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rscott(at)involved.com (Richard Scott) |
| Subject: | Switching from -6 to -7 |
I visited Van's this morning (only 37 miles away for me) and had a good chat
with Scott Ryerson about the -7 and tried it on for size. Turns out that
the only work done so far on my kit, the horizontal stab, (I bought a
partially completed tail kit a week before the -7 was announced) is the only
work not wasted by changing over to a -7. Cost of the thicker elevator skin
and the VS & rudder is only $530 and I could use the greater head & leg
room, so I am now a -7 builder!
Dick Scott
Starting RV-7
Soon to be selling an Interstate Cadet
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MA-4-SPA carb questions |
Bill: I have a converted I0-320 back to a carb, I was wondering what dash
number you are using. It should take something like a -32 for the 160. I
found a new carb that come off a 0-320 D1A that I am trying to use. It
seems to work fine but when I put a MA4-SPA-32 it was a little richer and
would not stumble as much.
Harvey Sigmon - RV-6AQB - ready to fly
----- Original Message -----
From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 4:58 PM
Subject: RV-List: MA-4-SPA carb questions
>
> Listers:
>
> I believe I have pinpointed my rough engine trouble that I thought was
vapor
> lock but apparently isn't. Recall from my latest post that the vapor
> pressure tests on the mogas (and avgas) that I've been burning showed no
> problems with high volatility.
>
> Yesterday, while showing a non-pilot passenger what the controls did, I
> performed a gentle pull-up followed by a gentle push-over. I estimate we
got
> down to maybe 1/4 G; nothing was floating in the cockpit, but the engine
> responded with an immediate and sustained return to rough running like I
had
> experienced before in moderately choppy air. It took several seconds to
> smooth out, but return to full positive G seemed to do it. The boost pump
> was already on, and no throttle changes had been made, so it wasn't ice.
>
> I combine this observation with one I made last week, that my plane, on
> random and rare occasions during roll-out on turf runways, exhibitrs lots
of
> black smoke and stoppage or near-stoppage of the engine if things get a
bit
> bouncy on the ground. There seems to be no escaping the conclusion that
> things are set up too rich in there...
>
> My O-320 has a Cessna-172 carb with the main jet drilled out to #37 (it
was
> #43 at first), and I was having a serious case of the in-flight stumbles
and
> could only lean about 50 degrees worth of EGT delta before the
modification.
> Unlike Gary Corde, who has posted much on this problem, I was not willing
to
> remove, open, modify, reassemble and reinstall the carb each time I
changed
> the jet orifice one drill size, so I bit it off all in one piece, went
> straight to #37 bore - Woah! - probably overshot a bit. Now I lean about
1/2
> inch of mixture travel at all times just to compensate.
>
> Until I tear into the carb this weekend, I won't really know if this is a
jet
> problem, or a float setting, or a damaged needle and seat (rubber and
mogas
> issue?) or something else I haven't thought of yet. I am thinking of
backing
> up a few sizes on the jet diameter, and wonder if it is feasible recommended> to braze or solder some metal back into the jet so I can
redrill
> it smaller (like the carpenter who throws the 2x4 back down to his helper
and
> says "Cut it longer!") I hate to part with over $100 for a new jet,
> especially if I am going to wind up taking a drill to the new one
eventually.
> I hoped that the 160hp upgrade was going to take up some of the slack in
the
> jetting (I am told they require more fuel or a richer mix at 160 hp that
at
> 150.) If the compression hop-up made any difference in the richness, I
can't
> really tell it. It seems I am still too rich at the jet and having to
> compensate by leaning more aggressively.
>
> I just know someone is going to ask me the EGT temp spread I now get at
160
> hp from full rich to lean-rough, and I don't recall, but it used to be
well
> over 200 degrees at 150 hp, and somewhat less with the new pistons, since
> peak EGT's dropped about 100 degrees with the mod. Let me guess it's
about
> 150 degrees, okay? I will look next time I'm up.
>
> Personally, my hunch is that the jet is a minor issue compared to the
floats
> and needle/seat, as far as my particular problem is concerned. My hope is
to
> have on hand all replacement parts I am likely to need when I tear into
this
> project this Friday. Yeah, right... Any tips on how to proceed, whom to
ask
> for specifications/jetting recommendations, where to source parts, shared
war
> stories, etc would be appreciated. Should I just swap my carb out for a
> rebuilt with a different jet? I have searched the archives on the carb
> jetting and rich/lean issues; some of what is in there is of dubious value
> since I was the author. I do plan to call Precision Airmotive and perhaps
> even Van's tech help desk, but the List just seems so much faster and in
many
> ways more valuable as a resource.
>
> Thanks again, gang!
>
> Bill Boyd
> RV-6A 175 hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV6A Firewall Speed Mod |
There was some discussion about a month ago about smoothing the firewall
airflow whre it exits the cowling. I tried an experiment with this and it
seems to have worked. I wrapped the engine mount tube that runs along the
bottom of the the firewall with fireproof pipe insulation covered with tin
foil. The insulation is thick enough to provide a rounded exit area. My
speed at full throttle at 7000 ft went from 165 knots to 171 knots. Rpm went
from 2750 to 2800. Oil temps seem to be a little cooler also. The 6A has a
lot of tubes and junk in the air exit area and this may be one of the causes
of high oil temps on some 6A's (like mine) during warm weather as well as
other heat related problems like vaper lock.
Dave Beizer
RV6A 150 hp/Props Inc Wood Prop
Steubenville Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: AN Fittings etc. |
Austin,
Try these links:
http://bmnellis.com/images/Wings/Dcp01628.jpg
http://bmnellis.com/images/Wings/DCP01629.JPG
Mike Nellis has done an excellent job of describing this and helping us all
by posting it. Thanks Mike!
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Building a few Cessna 185's right now but it's a long story.
> I searched all my notes and pieces of paper laying
> around and could not find some old scribblings about how to join plastic
> tubing to AN fittings, such as joining the plastic pitot line from the
> airspeed etc., to the 1/4" aluminum line coming from the wing.
> Anybody remember how its done ?
> Another example is, I have a bulkhead tee feeding air to a manifold
pressure
> gauge, and need another plastic air supply from the tee that must attach
to
> a push-on barb fitting on another device...any ideas ?
> The push-on barb fitting is built into the unit and I can't change it.
> Austin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
gverse(at)juno.com, dhicks_67(at)yahoo.com, jimhoisjr(at)juno.com, jellis(at)cswnet.com,
rv-list(at)matronics.com, marvin_swanson(at)hotmail.com, mmurphys(at)juno.com,
MJBad(at)LRNet1.com, Jonesr2(at)osc.army.mil, richard.verellen(at)motorola.com,
Ognir(at)pacbell.net, s3937f(at)dellepro.com, theresabwright(at)yahoo.com,
T18WGH(at)aol.com
| Subject: | Fwd: social security |
Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
smtpin-101-3.bryant.webtv.net (WebTV_Postfix+sws) with ESMTP id
From: WIRE4(at)aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 23:52:12 EDT
Subject: social security
Eagle11476(at)aol.com, SIDEPOCKETSDTJ(at)aol.com, kenwone(at)telebot.com,
RVPILOT4(at)webtv.net, pipe244(at)prodigy.net, davidpresley(at)geotec.net,
rms1(at)worldspy.net
Subject: Social Security
>
>
> > This will make your day!
> >
> > Our Senators/Congressmen do not pay into Social Security, and, therefore
> > they do not collect from it. Social Security benefits were not suitable
> > for them.
> > They felt they should have a special plan. Many years ago they voted in
> >
> > their benefit plan. In more recent years, no congressperson has felt
> > the
> > need to change it. After all, it is a great plan. For all practical
> > purposes their plan works like this: When they retire no matter how long
> > they have been in office, they continue to draw their same pay until
> > they die, except it may be increased from time to time by the cost of
> > living adjustments. For example, former Senator Bradley and his wife may
> > be expected to draw $7,900,000.00 over an average life span, with Mrs.
> > Bradley drawing $275,000.00
> > during the last year of her life. Their cost for this excellent plan is
> > "0", nada, zilch.
> >
> > This little perk they voted in for themselves is free to them. You and I
> > pick
> > up the tab for this plan. Retirement plan funds come directly from the
> > General Funds.
> >
> > Our tax dollars at work!
> >
> > Social Security, which you and I pay into every payday for our own
> > retirement, with an equal amount matched by our employer, we can expect
> > to
> > get an average of $1,000.00 per month. Or, we would have to collect our
> > benefits for 68 years and 1 month to equal the Bradley's benefits.
> > Imagine
> > for a moment that you could structure a retirement plan so desirable, a
> > retirement plan that worked so well, that Railroad Employees, Postal
> > Workers, and others who were not in the plan would clamor to be
> > included.
> >
> > This is how good Social Security could be, if only one small change was
> > made. That change would be to jerk the Golden Fleece Retirement Plan out
> > from under the Senators/Congressmen. Put them into the Social Security
> > plan with the rest of us. Watch how fast they fix it!!! If enough
> > people receive this, maybe a seed will be planted, and maybe good
> > changes will evolve.
> >
> > How many people can YOU send this to?
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Brake Lining Replacment |
Listers,
I just go my 8A back into the air after being down 5 weeks for paint.
It was a great feeling to be up again.
In the re-assembly process, after paint I noticed my brakes had been
leaking, so I took them apart & I needed to replace the linings.
I have 110 hours on my 8A & I just counted in the log book 250 landings.
Is this normal wear & tear or am I just a little aggressive in the breaking
department.
I might add I still have the original Aero Trainer Tires that came from
Van's & they look to be able to go another 100 or so hours.
Mark Steffensen
8A Dallas, TX 110 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Induction Systems LONG |
Eric,
At 175 kt CAS you have 1.5 in. hg of ram pressure to work with (e.g
an airspeed indicator at 175 kt CAS sees 1.5 in. hg of differential
pressure). So, the best you could hope for is 1.5 inches more
manifold pressure at 175 kt during a low pass down the runway than
the manifold pressure you had when doing a full power runup on the
ramp (apples and apples comparison with same induction system). Now,
if you start comparing different induction systems, one with a filter
and one without, I'm not surprised to see you might get results such
as Boyd described.
Van has a pretty good filtered air box. I suspect he gets a lot of
benefit from the ram air, but there will be some pressure loss going
through that filter. You are going to want some way to filter the
air at lower altitudes though.
I certainly agree with you that the snouts on the lower cowl detract
from the appearance. Some people even resort to putting a nose gear
on to draw the eye away from that area. :) I wasn't willing to go
that far, so I went with the IO-360A on my RV-8 so that I could use
Van's neat "snorkle" to get air from the left cowl inlet.
The NACA scoop sounds like a neat experiment - just be mentally
prepared for lots of extra fibreglas work after you start flying as
you optimize things.
Good luck,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (mounting wings)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
>
>Eric--
>
>You talked to the wrong people at SNF about ram air. The Super 6 has a
>straight line inlet tube from the cowling to the Bendix FI body. The
>cowl inlet was designed by a guy who works up heating/cooling
>systems--the main goal was to reduce turbulence at the cowl inlet. I
>get a proven 1.5 - 1.7 increase in MAP with the ram air as opposed to
>filtered air. The ram air tube has a door that is operated from the
>cockpit, so it can be closed while taxiing to prevent FOD ingestion.
>The filtered air enters behind the ram air door. The air filter is a
>standard Brackett unit with a square inch filter area more than adequate
>for a pumped up IO-540.
>
>I can send you photos and dimensions, if you're interested.
>
>Boyd Braem
>N600SS
>RAM AIR SUCKS!!!!
>>
>>
>> Hi Bill,
> >
> > I asked several
> > airflow types how much MP increase was it realistically possible to gain
>> from ram air effect, both said less than 1 inch of MP. I was a little
>> suprised at that, I told them I expected 1.5 or so. They both laughed at me
>> and politely said that I was in turbo territory at a 1.5 gain. They both
>> told me to just try not to loose above ambient.
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com> |
| Subject: | RV6A Firewall Speed Mod |
Dave,
I'm one of the guys who was propagating the thread about the lower firewall
speed mods, so am very pleased to hear your results. 6 knots at that speed
is a LOT of speed gain and obviously worth the trouble.
I haven't put my engine on yet, so instead of wasting time (that remains to
be seen), I've fabricated a fairly complex speed mod to cover this whole
area. I looked at all of the FAST planes at Sun-n-Fun, and they ALL have
this! Most, however, are about 3 or 4 inches out from the firewall...
(unlike the RV8 which is only about 2 inches. I take it from your note that
yours is about 2 inches.
I got under Tracey Saylor's RV-6 and his clearly is 4 inches out from the
firewall... a nice smooth curve that then goes fairly up on the firewall.
I made mine with a 4 inch radius, and then continued it up to the very
bottom of the firewall cut out for the oil filter/CS governor.
The interesting thing is this:
1) it now is a FUNCTIONAL device in more ways than one... it serves to keep
my fuel lines and fuel pump (fuel injection) cooler and out of the hot air
flow because I continued it fairly far over to the left (pilot's side).
2) Most of the engine mount is covered (I also have a 6A).... its amazing
how many screws, bolts, and pieces of metal are on that engine mount... you
don't realize it until you try to make a fairing around it!
3) I can route almost all of my wires and tubes, and conduits which are on
the bottom half of the firewall under this device, thus they are all out of
the air flow.
Of course, I don't know if it will work or not...since I am not flying yet.
However, your findings sure support all that has gone on before us in this
regards.
Here is one more idea regarding the main tube of the front gear support that
resides inside the cowling area... put a fairing around it just like you did
for the landing gear. We would never leave 8 inches of landing gear
un-faired, but that is exactly what that thing is!!! ...An 8 inch piece of
un-faired landing gear strut in an area where we are wanting the airflow to
quickly return to laminar flow. If you haven't done this and decide to do
so, let us know if it helps.
jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 8:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV6A Firewall Speed Mod
There was some discussion about a month ago about smoothing the firewall
airflow whre it exits the cowling. I tried an experiment with this and it
seems to have worked. I wrapped the engine mount tube that runs along the
bottom of the the firewall with fireproof pipe insulation covered with tin
foil. The insulation is thick enough to provide a rounded exit area. My
speed at full throttle at 7000 ft went from 165 knots to 171 knots. Rpm
went
from 2750 to 2800. Oil temps seem to be a little cooler also. The 6A has a
lot of tubes and junk in the air exit area and this may be one of the causes
of high oil temps on some 6A's (like mine) during warm weather as well as
other heat related problems like vaper lock.
Dave Beizer
RV6A 150 hp/Props Inc Wood Prop
Steubenville Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Firewall Speed Mod |
Great idea, Dave
Thanks for the report, I have wanted to try that out but had been put
off by the perceived problem of getting around all the motor mount tubing
with a formed metal part. Of course, it does not have to be metal and your
foam tubing idea sounds like it works fine.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: <PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 8:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV6A Firewall Speed Mod
>
> There was some discussion about a month ago about smoothing the firewall
> airflow whre it exits the cowling. I tried an experiment with this and it
> seems to have worked. I wrapped the engine mount tube that runs along the
> bottom of the the firewall with fireproof pipe insulation covered with tin
> foil. The insulation is thick enough to provide a rounded exit area. My
> speed at full throttle at 7000 ft went from 165 knots to 171 knots. Rpm
went
> from 2750 to 2800. Oil temps seem to be a little cooler also. The 6A has
a
> lot of tubes and junk in the air exit area and this may be one of the
causes
> of high oil temps on some 6A's (like mine) during warm weather as well as
> other heat related problems like vaper lock.
>
> Dave Beizer
> RV6A 150 hp/Props Inc Wood Prop
> Steubenville Ohio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Lining Replacment |
Mark,
I have amost 200 hours in mine. I do keep track of number of landings but
not sure what it is. Should be around 350 or so. Just did my annual 2
months ago and the linings are only about 50% spent. Your numbers do seem a
tad low.
Anh
N985VU
-6
Maryland
>
>Listers,
>
>I just go my 8A back into the air after being down 5 weeks for paint.
>
>It was a great feeling to be up again.
>
>In the re-assembly process, after paint I noticed my brakes had been
>leaking, so I took them apart & I needed to replace the linings.
>
>I have 110 hours on my 8A & I just counted in the log book 250 landings.
>
>Is this normal wear & tear or am I just a little aggressive in the breaking
>department.
>
>I might add I still have the original Aero Trainer Tires that came from
>Van's & they look to be able to go another 100 or so hours.
>
>Mark Steffensen
>8A Dallas, TX 110 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
I stopped by Van's tent at SnF and talked to one of his reps. He let out a
few uhhhs and ahhhs and told me to talk to Van directly for technical
quetions. Since I was more curious than interested, I didn't proceed
further. So, I don't know what to think.
Anh
-6
N985VU
Maryland
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Nick Harris
>To: RV-List
>Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 10:15 AM
>Subject: RV-7
>
>
>WHAT'S EVERYONE THINK OF THE RV-7?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Buckling Firewall on an RV-4 |
Chuck,
I have seen another RV-4 with this condition. It was caused by a hard
landing. The landing was hard enough that the wheel pants dented the bottom
of the wings. This particular airplane has been repaired and is flying fine
now. I am not sure what all repairs he had to make.
Ted
RV-4 (finishing kit)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 1:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Buckling Firewall on an RV-4
>
> Hi Guys & Gals,
>
> I have 2 RV-4's, one I bought and one I built (and continue to build).
> - Problem is the one I bought has a firewall that has buckled on both
sides
> (right down by the gear leg/engine mount attach)
> - Question is "Has anyone else seen this, is so what causes it, and if I
> tear her apart & put in a new firewall will it happen again?"
>
> Thank you, in advance, for your assistance. Oh yeah, I did call
> Van's... their response was that it is not a common problem but it is also
> not un-heard of and that the firewall is not structural so no big deal
just
> watch it and see what happens. I have been and the buckles continue to
> grow.
>
>
> Chuck
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Kunkel <rvator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: angle drill rebuilding |
Hi Bob,
I think you'll find that it's probably going to be better to get another
one. New, oversize bearings won't work w/ the race inside the head & the
gear is probably too worn to mess with by now. Best of luck in any case.
Fred
Bob Japundza wrote:
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> I need to have my Thor angle drill rebuilt. Can any of you guys out
> there point me to someone who can rebuild it, for cheaper than what it
> would cost me to just get another used one? The threaded portion which
> takes the drill bit seems to be a bit sloppy, looks like new oversize
> ball-bearings would fix it. There are no carriers for the balls or
> rollers so when I took the drill apart they all fell out, and it would
> be a job to get it all back together.
>
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 115 hours
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: MA-4-SPA carb questions |
In a message dated 04/23/2001 7:31:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
flyhars(at)earthlink.net writes:
> Bill: I have a converted I0-320 back to a carb, I was wondering what dash
> number you are using. It should take something like a -32 for the 160. I
> found a new carb that come off a 0-320 D1A that I am trying to use. It
> seems to work fine but when I put a MA4-SPA-32 it was a little richer and
> would not stumble as much.
> Harvey Sigmon - RV-6AQB - ready to fly
MA-4-SPA 10-5135
It's for sale, by the way.
Going with a new carb this week end, and more mods to follow if that doesn't
take care of it. It did "it" again today, at 75% cruise power with the boost
pump on, twice in quick succession, over unlandable terrain, sounded as if
the mixture had been pulled nearly all the way out- major, MAJOR pucker
factor! Shoved the throttle in and wheeled around for home without further
incident, even after reducing power again in the pattern. While I'm at it,
the fuel pump is going to get two additional blast tubes, one on each side,
in addition to the tube/shroud I have aimed at it from above. I will also
check the maximum fuel flow from each tank while I have the carb off.
I'm also considering the possibility of exhaust valve sticking or a mag
cross-firing. The rpm drop is way too much to be one mag simply going
off-line, and it even seems like more than (what I'm told) you get with a
stuck valve. My gut says it's fuel, not spark, but my gut is tied in several
knots right now. This has certainly taken 110% of the fun out of RVating, at
least temporarily.
While I'm at this, I might just get a new engine. Seems (in a bizarre way)
to make more sense than replacing the existing engine piece by piece. Okay,
okay, I'm giving in to despair and self-pity... mustn't do that. For the
record, I'm very thankful that the Lord has seen me back to terra firma
unscathed every time my little RV has developed a hiccup. But it is getting
a bit too exciting lately.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP
Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Typical Manifold Pressures |
>
>What are typical manifold pressures (normally aspirated and carbureted)
>seen
>with Lycoming powered RV's having a conventional air intake? I've checked
>the archives and can't find a specific answer to this question.
>
>For example, assuming MAP gauge shows 30.0 before startup, what would one
>expect at full throttle when beginning takeoff roll? 29"? 28"? less?
>
>What about the MAP boost from ram air pressure? 1"? 2"?
>
>Thanks
>
>Bryan Jones -8 765BJ
>Pearland, Texas
Bryan,
I get just the typical pressure for the field or flight elevation I happen
to be at. If at sea level, somewhere around 29". Here at my home field in
Albuquerque, about 23". I don't notice any ram increase when the plane is
moving.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Another.....RV6A Cowl Speed Mod |
Here is another idea for cleaning up the cowl.
The area above the opening of the ram air carb intake is very flat almost
like a piece of board. It seems this would cause a lot of drag. What about
cleaning this up by making a fairing for this area and glass it into the
cowl?
Ross
Cowling and Cowling
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cometflash on a beer budget |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Bill,
Don't feel bad, I talked to the Nova tech rep on the phone for 20 minutes
before I understood how the power distribution works. At least now I
*think* I understand how it works.... : ) If anyone believes me to be
hopelessly confused and can help correct my logic, speak up. Let me try
again to explain it....
If you read carefully my earlier posts, I don't think I said that "if the
PS puts out 80 joules to two strobes *simultaneously* for one flash, each
would get 40 joules". This is not the case. For each strobe to get 40
joules you have to have them ALTERNATING.
Maybe it will make more sense if I describe how the PS is intended to
work in an emergency vehicle in the quintuple flash mode (for
simplicity's sake I'm not going to discuss any of the other flash modes
or it gets REALLY confusing).
In an emergency vehicle you would connect 4 strobes to the power supply.
The system will then go through a flash CYCLE where it dissipates a total
of 80 joules of energy. One CYCLE occurs when: strobe #1 and #3 flash
simultaneously with 5 quick bursts (a.k.a. one "quintuple flash") and
this is followed by strobe #2 and #4 flashing 5 quick bursts
simultaneously. End of one CYCLE. In this example if you had all four
strobes connected, each strobe would dissipate 20 Joules per "quintuple
flash". If you wanted to break this down even further, each of the five
bursts in the "quintuple flash" is probably 4 joules each (I don't have
this specific info from Nova.....the burst-energy distribution in the
quintuple flash may be more like 8-3-3-3-3 to make up the 20 Joules per
"quintuple flash"). I do know that Whelen's Cometflash sytem works on
the exact same principle, the idea being to use a series of lower powered
bursts to give the visual impression of a LONGER flash, which appears to
the eye to be more visible than a single 20 Joule burst that only lasts a
fraction of a second.
OK, keeping in mind the CYCLE above, now what happens if you don't
connect all four strobes? The answer is a little tricky because the
power distribution depends on what combination of strobes you leave out.
The way Eugene at Nova explained it to me is that the strobes which flash
simultaneously.....lets take #1 and #3 for example....are connected to
the same electrical "bus" in the power supply. So this bus is putting
out 40 Joules of energy in one "quintuple flash" which is intended to be
split evenly between #1 and #3 at the same time. IF however you did not
connect #3, then all 40 Joules would go into #1. The same goes for the
second half of the CYCLE, if you leave out say strobe #2, then #4 will
get all 40 Joules dissipated in that half of the CYCLE. So when I talk
about 40 Joules into the two wingtip strobes on my airplane, it will be
an ALTERNATING pattern. I will connect the left wingtip to #1 which will
get 40 Joules in one "quintuple flash" in the first half of the CYCLE,
and then the right wingtip connected to #2 will get 40 Joules in the
second half of the CYCLE. Using strobes #1 and #2 is just one way of
doing it......you would get the EXACT same results by using the
combinations of 1 & 4, or 3 & 2, or 3 & 4. If you keep the flash pattern
described above in mind this will make sense.
I you've figured it out by now, it's not too hard to understand what
happens when you connect 3 strobes. You could connect strobes 1 and 3 to
the left wingtip and right wingtip respectively and then each of these
strobes would get 20 Joules per "quintuple flash" in the first half of
the CYCLE. Then if you connected #2 to the tail, this strobe would get
all 40 Joules dissipated in the second half of the CYCLE (since the tail
is getting all the energy intended for both #2 and #4).
And finally, if you ONLY connected two strobes and want them to flash
simultaneously, you cannot get 40 Joules per strobe this way. Lets say
you connect the wingtips to #1 and #3, they will flash together in the
first half of the CYCLE but will get only 20 Joules each. The second
half of the cycle where #2 and #4 would normally flash will NOT release
any energy if there are no strobes attached....the 40 Joule charge saved
up for the second half of the cycle will be retained (harmlessly) inside
the PS but you won't benefit from the extra energy potential of this big
90 Watt PS if you do it this way. You would be better off getting a
lower powered 2-strobe PS is you wanted to run only 2 strobes
*simultaneously*. This is why I'm ALTERNATING the two wingtips because
then you can get 40 Joules to each strobe in a CYCLE.
Sorry I don't know how to make it easier to understand. If it's still
confusing I'd try phone instead....maybe I can explain it better
verbally, or perhaps Eugene at Nova can explain it better. Or maybe I'm
full of baloney. : ) Or you could just buy one, plug it in, and watch
in amazement as it knocks your eyes out. It's a fun toy at least!
Good luck,
--Mark Navratil (319) 393-4234
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"
---------------------------------
writes:
>I'm still not sure I understand...
>
>If the PS puts out 80 joules to two strobes simultaneously for one
>flash,
>each would get 40 joules? So if you use the quintuple pattern, and
>you used
>the same math, you would you get 8 joules? I am usually not this
>stupid,
>but seem to be completely confused at the moment...
>
>Thanks...
>
>-Bill
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: czechsix(at)juno.com [mailto:czechsix(at)juno.com]
>Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 12:01 AM
>To: bill(at)vondane.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Cc: czechsix(at)juno.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Cometflash on a beer budget
>
>
>Bill,
>
>According to Eugene Abel at NOVA (quote from an e-mail he sent me):
>
>"Yes, quintuple flash is only available with all outlets enabled.
>You won't damage the power supply, but it will damage the heads:
>It will overheat the strobe heads if you connect only 2 strobe heads
>(each head will receive 45 Watts of power).
>
>Standard heads are rated at 32 Watts, Microthin heads are
>only rated at 20 Watts max."
>
>Eugene was responding to my first inquiry in this e-mail and I had
>not
>told him I was using aviation strobes, hence the warning that I would
>damage the heads. But to answer your first question, the rating for
>the
>power supply is 90 W / 80 J (my installation guide says 75 Joules)
>for
>the ENTIRE FLASH CYCLE that it goes through. Since the quintuple
>flash
>mode cycle is 1& 3 alternating with 2&4 to complete ONE CYCLE, the 90
>W /
>80 J energy would be divided equally between the two wingtip strobes
>if
>you hooked the wingtips up to 1 and 2 and left 3 and 4 disconnected.
>
>I know the Whelen Cometflash HDA-CF 3 strobe power supply when used
>with
>all three strobes puts out 21 Joules to EACH wingtip strobe at the
>same
>time, and then 42 joules to the tailstrobe which is an A500 in the
>kit
>Vans and other companies sell. So you won't have any problem if you
>use
>the NOVA X-PAK 904 with the Whelen strobes....you'll send approx 20
>Joules to each wingtip at the same time and then 40 joules to the
>tail.
>You would hook the wingtips up to 1&3, the tail to 2, and leave 4
>disconnected. At least this is the way Eugene at NOVA explained it.
>
>In response to your last question, when I spoke with Eugene by phone
>I
>did (reluctantly) tell him I was putting the X-PAK in an experimental
>aircraft. He didn't seem to have a problem with this, but remember,
>he's
>in tech support so he's just thinking technically and not about
>defending
>it in court. I did NOT tell the vendor I bought the system from
>(Strobes
>N' More) that I was putting it in an aircraft, I suspect like many
>vendors they might refuse to sell it to me if I said the word
>"aircraft."
> But I don't think it will affect the warranty at all.....the
>warranty
>doesn't say you can't put it in an airplane and there's no way
>they'll
>know unless you tell them. If it quits in the next 5 years, send it
>back
>to them and they'll repair or replace it. Unless you physically broke
>it
>or dunked it in water, there's not much you can do to hurt it since
>it
>has all the standard protection features (reverse voltage, output
>shorts,
>strobe failures, etc).
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"
>
>
-
>---------------------------
>
>writes:
>>Hey Mark... Ok, I have a question...
>>
>> "if you alternate the wingtip strobes (lets say you connect
>>the wingtips to
>>1 and 2 and leave 3 and 4 disconnected) then you get 45 W /
>>37.5 J into
>>EACH wingtip which is twice what the wingtips get in the 3
>>strobe setup."
>>
>>In looking at the specs on the Nova site, if you get the X-Pack 904
>>@90
>>watts & 80 joules and you set it up to power the wings alternately,
>>you will
>>be pushing 80 joules to each strobe and I don't think even the
>Whelens
>>will
>>take that for too long...
>>
>>I am going to be installing Van's sheared wingtips with Whelen
>A650's
>>recessed into the tips (just like on the new RV-7), and an A500 on
>>the
>>tail...
>>
>>Before I go with a Nova PS, I will want to contact Whelen to see how
>>much
>>the A500 will take and get a PS that will put that out to one
>strobe,
>>it
>>will Probably be the Micro-Pak 404MF or 504MF...
>>
>>Did you tell the tech you were planning on installing it in an
>>airplane?
>>Did he say anything about warranty?
>>
>>Thanks...
>>
>>-Bill
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cometflash on a beer budget |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Greg,
I do not have a Whelen installation harness so I can't guarantee from
first-hand experience that it will work, but I can't see any reason why
it wouldn't. The Whelen strobe / nav light assemblies that I bought from
White Aircraft Salvage have a standard AMP connector (male) for the
strobes, and it plugs right into the female AMP connectors on the Nova
systems all use the AMP connectors and I imagine the installation harness
from Vans (or other supplier) would have a male AMP connector on one end
to plug into the power supply and a female connector on the other end to
plug into the strobes. It should work identically for either the Whelen
or Nova power supplies.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"
-----------------------------------
writes:
>Do you know if the Whelen installation harness will work with the Nova
>power
>supply?
>
>Greg
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | Regulator Wiring |
Vans adjustable voltage regulator P/N ES M5-150A has four color coded wires,
Red, Green, Black and Yellow.
Can't find any wiring documentation, can someone tell me which color goes
where.
Thanks,
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
(6A - Systems)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Buckling Firewall on an RV-4 |
In a message dated 4/23/01 3:36:44 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
crabaut(at)coalinga.com writes:
> Hi Guys & Gals,
>
> I have 2 RV-4's, one I bought and one I built (and continue to build).
> - Problem is the one I bought has a firewall that has buckled on both sides
> (right down by the gear leg/engine mount attach)
> - Question is "Has anyone else seen this, is so what causes it, and if I
> tear her apart & put in a new firewall will it happen again?"
>
> Thank you, in advance, for your assistance. Oh yeah, I did call
> Van's... their response was that it is not a common problem but it is also
> not un-heard of and that the firewall is not structural so no big deal just
> watch it and see what happens. I have been and the buckles continue to
> grow.
>
Could possibly your 4 be an older plane? The reason I say this is on the
older 4's the motor mount brackets that connect to the longerons and firewall
were not very strong (compared the newer design). That might be an area to
start with. I know of people that have replaced them with the new brackets
(ouch) .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Typical Manifold Pressures |
Let me rephrase my question - what drop in manifold pressure can be expected
through the Van's stock filter air box. I believe I may be having an
excessive drop and was wondering what was typical. For example, I've seen
29" before startup. Then at full throttle and little airspeed (takeoff),
I'm seeing 25 or 26". This seems like a lot of loss. Anyone have
experience with a bypass around the filter? How about new and improved
filter elements (bigger, better)?
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Inverted Tanks?? |
Morning friends,
Is there a standard or preference for which side the inverted tank should
be?
Thanks,
Jack
DSM
RV8, wings
Jack Textor
President
PERSONNEL INCORPORATED
604 Locust, Suite 516
Des Moines, IA 50309-3720
515-243-7687 wk
515-243-3350 fax
pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Typical Manifold Pressures |
"Jones, Bryan D." wrote:
>
> Let me rephrase my question - what drop in manifold pressure can be expected
> through the Van's stock filter air box. I believe I may be having an
> excessive drop and was wondering what was typical. For example, I've seen
> 29" before startup. Then at full throttle and little airspeed (takeoff),
> I'm seeing 25 or 26". This seems like a lot of loss. Anyone have
> experience with a bypass around the filter? How about new and improved
> filter elements (bigger, better)?
>
> Bryan Jones -8 765BJ
> Pearland, Texas
>
> _
Brian,
If you suspect that the filter is causing the drop in manifold pressure you might
try removing the element from the airbox for a couple of test flights.
--
Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado
RV-6A N99PZ Flying
Engine: Aerosport Power O-360-A1A
Prop: Sensenich 72FM8S9-1-83
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Lining Replacment |
As to high brake lining wear,maybe your disc are kind of rough .It
helped me when I installed
Chrome discs,you pay a little more but sometimes its worth it.
Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Inverted Tanks?? |
Jack,
Definitely "LEFT"... because you never want to be in the air (verted or
inverted) without any fuel left.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gear leg fairings -9A |
Hi all, where is everyone today, not WORKING I hope. (unless its on your
planes)
When fitting the main leg fairings last night, I encountered interference
with the brake lines. Vans drawings show them penetrating the fuse forward of
the leg, bending around and following down the aft side , then turning
forward again and looping back to brake caliper. Question: is there a
specific reason why the line can not just be run down the forward side of the
gear leg if enough slack is left for flexing? I have already bled the brakes
and dont want to take the lines back apart (for obvious reasons)
Thanks in advance for any input
Kevin in WA -9A
994KS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Key Switch or No... |
>
>It's kinda quite in here this morning...
>
>How about a discussion on the advantages/disadvantages of the key
>[mags/start] switch vs. toggle switches...
>
>Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
>RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
For me, toggle switches all the way. I see no use whatsoever in a
keyswitch, especially with one mag and one electronic ignition that I
currently have. I want to freely choose which one is on for starting. Also,
a keyswitch is larger, more complex and definitely can be defeated by
someone commited to stealing the airplane who knows what he's doing. So,
the key function is of questionable use. A throttle or mixture lock of some
sort might be a better security measure.
My two cents. Adjusted for inflation, taxes, etc.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
200+ hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Typical Manifold Pressures |
Bryan--
Just for anecedotal info, on a recent flight I recorded the following at
take off:
Atmospheric Pressure 30.33"
MAP (ram air) 28.30"
did not record filtered air MAP
RPM 2750
fuel consumption 27.6 gal/hr
IO-540-EXP
Boyd Braem
N600SS
>
>
> Let me rephrase my question - what drop in manifold pressure can be expected
> through the Van's stock filter air box. I believe I may be having an
> excessive drop and was wondering what was typical. For example, I've seen
> 29" before startup. Then at full throttle and little airspeed (takeoff),
> I'm seeing 25 or 26". This seems like a lot of loss. Anyone have
> experience with a bypass around the filter? How about new and improved
> filter elements (bigger, better)?
>
> Bryan Jones -8 765BJ
> Pearland, Texas
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Bill,
About a month ago I asked Grand Rapids if one of the aux. inputs to their
EIS could be used as an ammeter with an appropriate shunt or hall effect
sensor and I received a reply that they were working on a hall effect sensor
that was expected to cost about $40. I don't know if it is available yet.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Canopy
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
Hi all...
Question... Do I need to install an Ammeter in my basic VFR night RV? If
yes, then why? For those of you that have installed the EIS, have you
installed an additional Ammeter?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Key Switch or No... |
Me too! Had an IM session with Bill earlier on this. Told him my reasons
for going with toggle switches rather than key switch:
1) More flexible - can be easily adapted to electronic ignition systems
2) Simpler - look at electric Bob's diagrams, nothing could be simpler
to wire
Why not have a key switch since I'm going to lock my canopy anyway? That
way they can share the same key. Well the answer is, I'm not going to lock
my canopy. If someone wants something they can just reach in and take it.
I don't want anyone smashing up *my* canopy to get at something. I'd rather
buy another handheld GPS than build a new canopy.
I know there are builders out there with more expensive toys in their
airplanes than I have. However, this is going to work for me and may work
for others as well.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Denk [mailto:akroguy(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2001 7:37 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Key Switch or No...
>
>It's kinda quite in here this morning...
>
>How about a discussion on the advantages/disadvantages of
the key
>[mags/start] switch vs. toggle switches...
>
>Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
>RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
For me, toggle switches all the way. I see no use
whatsoever in a
keyswitch, especially with one mag and one electronic
ignition that I
currently have. I want to freely choose which one is on for
starting. Also,
a keyswitch is larger, more complex and definitely can be
defeated by
someone commited to stealing the airplane who knows what
he's doing. So,
the key function is of questionable use. A throttle or
mixture lock of some
sort might be a better security measure.
My two cents. Adjusted for inflation, taxes, etc.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
200+ hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Project for sale |
Fellow Listers:
One of our MN Wing members has his RV-6 project for sale. Everything is
included to complete the aircraft except avionics. 0-320 powered. $35K.
For details, contact me at my email below.
Thanks
Doug,
pres, MN Wing
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AN Fittings etc. |
> Austin,
>
> Try these links:
> http://bmnellis.com/images/Wings/Dcp01628.jpg
> http://bmnellis.com/images/Wings/DCP01629.JPG
>
> Mike Nellis has done an excellent job of describing this and helping us
all
> by posting it. Thanks Mike!
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
>
Thanks Norman...these are great photos...
Austin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another.....RV6A Cowl Speed Mod |
I've talked to a lot of 6 pilots, most agree that the area above the carb air
inlet is a drag producer. One of the ways to check for drag on a flying airframe
is to look for areas where the bugs haven't gotten out of the way. The area
above the carb inlet is always splattered with bugs.
I have modified the air intake on my epoxy/glass cowl by extending it forward
and making it removable. This allows me to make a more gentle transition above
the air intake, (less drag) slow down the air box inside wall transition (less
turbulent air flow into the filter) and, use a longer tighter fitting rubber
piece between the air box and cowl ( less vibration transferred from the engine
to the cowl and less ram air pressure loss).
Added benefits are you don't have to go through the ordeal of removing the lower
cowl as often. You can do a very thorough engine check, adjust carb and change
oil by just removing the snorkel (held on with nut plates and screws). And if
you do want to remove the lower cowl you don't need to remove the prop or cover
the front of the cowl with cardboard to protect it.
The only Two "R" Garry on "The List".
Garry LeGare EAA 94585
Tech Counselor
RV6 Finishing
Ross wrote:
>
> Here is another idea for cleaning up the cowl.
>
> The area above the opening of the ram air carb intake is very flat almost
> like a piece of board. It seems this would cause a lot of drag. What about
> cleaning this up by making a fairing for this area and glass it into the
> cowl?
>
> Ross
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Judd <sjudd(at)ffd2.com> |
| Subject: | Fwd: social security) |
Hola,
On Mon, 23 Apr 2001, BOBE. wrote:
>
> > > Our Senators/Congressmen do not pay into Social Security, and, therefore
It's a hoax:
http://urbanlegends.about.com/science/urbanlegends/library/blcongress.htm
Moreover, for what it's worth, Social Security is not a retirement plan,
but a wealth transfer system.
As a basic rule of thumb, everything that is forwarded through email is
false (except RV building tips :).
-Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Switching from -6 to -7 |
Dick,
Do you have any figures on how much tall and wider the 7 cockpit is and
how much additional leg room there is? Is the baggage compartment larger also.
John Henley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Info needed on Van's OEM O-320 |
Help needed.
Any lister with a new Lyc 160 hp from Van, please tell me what carburetor
came with it. Amazingly, Van's tech help cannot answer this ("We don't open
the boxes before we ship them out"), and Lycoming tech support referred me to
Precision Airmotive, who in turn said maybe I could use this one, or no,
maybe that one, or just try one of these here...
My best choice seems to be the replacement for the 10-5135, which is now
called a 10-5217; or else there's the slightly richer 10-3678-32 but they
wouldn't really recommend that since it is not listed for the O-320-E2D, but
of course my engine is no longer an E2D since it was hopped up to 160 hp, and
so on. Furthermore, the man at Precision says we only need drill out the
jets one or two thousandths to go from lean to rich, and he was aghast that
some of us had taken a drill bit several sizes different to our $150 main jet
nozzles.
At least everyone at the various help desks agrees that my frightening
in-flight experiences do sound like float or other types of carburetor
problems; I draw some consolation from that.
I plan to replace this carb and do an autopsy on the core 10-5135 which I
will be returning; maybe the tear-down will confirm that I have found and
fixed the problem :-) Before I order, I want very badly to know the answer
to the question: what comes standard on a 160 hp O-320 set up for the RV
airframe these days?
Thanks in advance.
Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Info needed on Van's OEM O-320 |
Bill,
I have an O-320 D1A in my shop that's going in my 9A. When I get home, I'll
look at the carb and see what it is. It's a 1993 model but I would think the
carb is the same.
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
SportAV8R(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2001 1:36 PM
Subject: RV-List: Info needed on Van's OEM O-320
Help needed.
Any lister with a new Lyc 160 hp from Van, please tell me what carburetor
came with it. Amazingly, Van's tech help cannot answer this ("We don't open
the boxes before we ship them out"), and Lycoming tech support referred me
to
Precision Airmotive, who in turn said maybe I could use this one, or no,
maybe that one, or just try one of these here...
My best choice seems to be the replacement for the 10-5135, which is now
called a 10-5217; or else there's the slightly richer 10-3678-32 but they
wouldn't really recommend that since it is not listed for the O-320-E2D, but
of course my engine is no longer an E2D since it was hopped up to 160 hp,
and
so on. Furthermore, the man at Precision says we only need drill out the
jets one or two thousandths to go from lean to rich, and he was aghast that
some of us had taken a drill bit several sizes different to our $150 main
jet
nozzles.
At least everyone at the various help desks agrees that my frightening
in-flight experiences do sound like float or other types of carburetor
problems; I draw some consolation from that.
I plan to replace this carb and do an autopsy on the core 10-5135 which I
will be returning; maybe the tear-down will confirm that I have found and
fixed the problem :-) Before I order, I want very badly to know the answer
to the question: what comes standard on a 160 hp O-320 set up for the RV
airframe these days?
Thanks in advance.
Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Key Switch or No... |
I like my key switch. I put the keys in my pocket and my 3 year old
can putter around in the cockpit to his heart's content. (I have to reset
EVERYTHING after he's done, but there's no chance he'll start the
engine while I'm working on it).
They key switch provides some level of protection against theft, but
certainly wouldn't stop anybody who is determined and has a copy of
the switch wiring diagram.
I like having the canopy lock and the ignition lock on the same key.
On the other hand... switches are lighter, and perhaps less expensive.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Inverted Tanks?? |
I would set both tanks up for inverted flight now. I have just my left one
and I can't tell you how often I wished I'd done both.
Carey Mills
RV4 130hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Aussie visit to US |
Chris & Susie,
San Antonio, Texas is not far off the direct path between Florida and
Colorado. We would love to have you visit. We have several RV builders
here plus an active EAA chapter (35.) I am building a 6A and am working
on the canopy.
You didn't mention a date for your trip. The Texas Wing of Van's Air
Force is having a fly-in near Waco, TX on June 6th. Lots of other RV hot
beds throughout Texas. Y'all come.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A QB, N11CB (reserved)
San Antonio
-----------------------------------------------
> From: "Chris & Susie" <rv6(at)ssc.net.au>
> Subject: RV-List: Aussie visit to US
>
>
> My wife and I will be travelling around the states for approximately 3
> months. We will be landing at LA, going to Portland, going to Vans of
> course, then pop into Canada. Then flying to Florida, spend a couple of
> weeks there, buy an old bomb (car), and spend about 6 weeks travelling
> to Evergreen, Colorado. We will be in Evergreen for a month.
>
> We would love to meet any RV builders and flyers along the way. Once in
> Colorado my wife is doing a course, so I am free for the month, if
> anyone needs a hand. Would also like to go to Oshkosh if anyone would
> like to share expenses.
>
> If anyone has any suggestions of places that we must see please let us
> know.
>
> Please respond off the list.
>
> Thanks
>
> Chris and Susie
>
> P.S: We are building an RV 6, just finishing off the canopy.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Info needed on Van's OEM O-320 |
Hi Bill,
The carb that came with my 0-320 from Van's is:
Precision Airmotive Corp.
Model MA--4SPA Part #10-5217. I'll sell it fi you want. I have installed
Airflow Performance fuel injection
Dave Gasper
Dgcan2(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | proseal or not tank reiforcement ring |
Anyone have any thoughts about prosealing the reinforcement ring? I plan to
put a little on the outer of the ring. It appears in the last pic of vans
manual that proseal was used. Guess it does not matter as long as I do not
get any in the nutpate screw holes. Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Inverted Tanks?? |
I did both my tanks inverted. This way I have one less thing to think about
(what tank the fuel is on) and I like symmetry..... The more common the
parts, the better in my opinion. This way if there is a difference in the
fuel indication between an inverted setup and an upright setup, mine will at
least be the same for both sides.
-Mike Kraus
gettin' ready to unjig my fuse...... and they say I'm only 1/2 done.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nancy and Walter Shipley" <wshipley(at)esper.com> |
| Subject: | Inverted Oil System |
A while back, I bought an IO-360 complete with a Christen Inverted Oil
System to install in my 8A. Since I'm not big into serious aerobatics, the
inverted oil system is for sale.
Van's new price for the entire system - basic 4 cylinder system + deluxe
hose & fitting kit + sump kit, shown in van's catalog, page 6, is
$1,537.44. I will sell for $850, including freight to anywhere in the lower
48.
If interested email me direct or call at (865) 458-9959
Walt Shipley N314TS
Engine Installation Soon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Inverted Tanks?? |
In a message dated 4/24/01 5:55:19 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com writes:
> Morning friends,
> Is there a standard or preference for which side the inverted tank should
> be?
> Thanks,
> Jack
> DSM
> RV8, wings
>
> Jack Textor
>
Right Side..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Inverted Tanks?? |
In a message dated 4/24/01 5:00:34 PM Pacific Daylight Time, N8292W(at)aol.com
writes:
>
> I did both my tanks inverted. This way I have one less thing to think
> about
> (what tank the fuel is on) and I like symmetry..... The more common the
> parts, the better in my opinion. This way if there is a difference in the
> fuel indication between an inverted setup and an upright setup, mine will
> at
> least be the same for both sides.
> -Mike Kraus
> gettin' ready to unjig my fuse...... and they say I'm only 1/2 done.....
>
>
>
I think what they said was when you have your motor hung, wings on rolling on
its gear you are only 1/2 done.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | proseal or not tank reiforcement ring |
Per Van's manual for the RV-8 I did not use Pro-Seal on the ring or any of
the rivets holding the platenuts. I noticed (after I installed the ring)
that George Orndorff used Pro-Seal here. So... after the ring was installed
I applied an even coat of Pro-Seal around the inside and outside edge of the
ring. I also put screws in the holes and covered the rivets and the
platenuts. The result was no leaks. It probably wouldn't have been a problem
leaving it as it was but better safe than sorry.
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
Sent: April 24, 2001 7:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: proseal or not tank reiforcement ring
Anyone have any thoughts about prosealing the reinforcement ring? I plan to
put a little on the outer of the ring. It appears in the last pic of vans
manual that proseal was used. Guess it does not matter as long as I do not
get any in the nutpate screw holes. Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Typical Manifold Pressures |
In a message dated Tue, 24 Apr 2001 8:15:36 AM Eastern Daylight Time, "Jones,
Bryan D." <bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com> writes:
Let me rephrase my question - what drop in manifold pressure can be expected
through the Van's stock filter air box. I believe I may be having an
excessive drop and was wondering what was typical. For example, I've seen
29" before startup. Then at full throttle and little airspeed (takeoff),
I'm seeing 25 or 26". This seems like a lot of loss. Anyone have
experience with a bypass around the filter? How about new and improved
filter elements (bigger, better)?>>
I have the standard Van's airbox and get MP readings of 29 inHg at my 400 ft elev
airport on my 6A at liftoff and initial climbout. I bring it back to 25 square
so I don't blow thru the troposphere ;
).
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Info needed on Van's OEM O-320 |
In a message dated 04/24/2001 5:05:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
gtanner(at)bendcable.com writes:
> Bill,
> I have an O-320 D1A in my shop that's going in my 9A. When I get home, I'll
> look at the carb and see what it is. It's a 1993 model but I would think the
> carb is the same.
>
> Greg
>
Greg- not necessarily a valid assumption unless that engine left the Lycoming
factory intended for an RV. There's different carb setups for different
airframes and cruise speeds, as both the Lycoming man and the Precision
Airmotive man explained to me today (and as I already knew from hanging out
on the list for 6 years.) I think Dave answered my question in a later post
this evening. Thanks again.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP
Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | One more on Nova Power Supplies.... |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys, sorry if this is overkill on strobe power supplies, for those not
interested hit "delete".....for the rest of you here's a response from
Eugene Abel at Nova Electronics to the post I sent to the list yesterday.
I asked him to verify if I was understanding it correctly. He
elaborated a bit and I learned a few new things myself. It looks like
you can't go wrong with either the quadflash or quintuple flash modes.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"
--------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Eugene Abel <eabel(at)strobe.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 08:19:15 -0400
Subject: RE: Please check my math....
Mark,
Your explaination below is correct.
Yes, the website specs are probably off a bit - looks like someone
rounded
up instead of down.
It's acutally 75 Joules total.
So with 2 heads hooked up, Quint mode, each one will get 37.5 Joules (45
Watts power dissipation)
With 3 heads, the two that fire at same time will get 18.75 Joules (22.5
Watts), and the 3rd head
will get the full 37.5 Joules (45 Watts).
Some more info:
Each burst of a Quintuple flash on the 90W supply is 7 Joules.
7-7-7-7-7
Quad flash, Primary is about 15 Joules, secondaries are 7 Joules.
15-7-7-7
It's also important to consider the time between flashes.
In Quintuple flash, the flashes occur 85 milliseconds apart.
On Quad flash, the time between primary to secondary and from secondary
to
secondary
is also 85 milliseconds, but the time from last secondary to next primary
is
160 milliseconds.
It's all about timing. The longer the time between flashes, the more time
the discharge capacitor
has to store a charge. The higher the voltage on the discharge cap the
more
energy (joules) it has
to fire through the strobe tube.
When the capacitor discharges through a single flash tube, that tube gets
all the energy.
When the capacitor discharges through two flashtubes, the energy divides
equally between them.
Wattage on the other hand is just a rating of energy discharging at a
certain rate.
Or, more precicely: Joules * Frequency
For example:
If you discharge 10 Joules through a strobe tube once every second it
equals
10 Watts of power output.
If you discharge 5 Joules through a strobe tube twice every second it
still
equals 10 Watts of
output power.
10 * 1 = 10
5 * 2 = 10
Hope this doesn't confuse things more...
________________________
Eugene Abel
Nova Electronics, Inc.
Technical Assistance Dept.
-----Original Message-----
From: czechsix(at)juno.com [mailto:czechsix(at)juno.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2001 2:10 AM
Subject: Please check my math....
Hi Eugene,
I spoke to you on the phone last Friday about your X-PAK 904 power supply
trying to understand how the flash energy distribution works. I THINK I
understood it but in discussing it with a friend, he has had questions so
I wrote it all out in explicit detail. Now I'm second-guessing myself
and wondering if you could verify if what I wrote is correct, or if not
please help us understand this better. We are only looking at the
quintuple flash high power mode here....
Thanks!
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
day (319) 295-9390
eve (319) 393-4234
P.S.--just as a side comment, there is a discrepancy between your website
(www.strobe.com) which rates the X-PAK 904 at 80 Joules and the
Installation Info that came with my power supply that rates it at 75
Joules (I don't have it in front of me but if I recall correctly it was
more like 74.6 Joules to be exact). For simplicity's sake in the
following discussion we refer to it as an 80 Joule supply. (But which is
it?).
P.P.S-- If you'd like to see what our airplane projects will look like
when they are complete, here's an example:
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/rvoftheweek/2001/wk17_2001_b.jpg
-------------------------
Bill,
Don't feel bad, I talked to the Nova tech rep on the phone for 20 minutes
before I understood how the power distribution works. At least now I
*think* I understand how it works.... : ) If you believe me to be
hopelessly confused and can help correct my logic, speak up. Let me try
again to explain it....
Maybe it will make more sense if I describe how the PS is intended to
work in an emergency vehicle in the quintuple flash mode (for
simplicity's sake I'm not going to discuss any of the other flash modes
or it gets REALLY confusing).
In an emergency vehicle you would connect 4 strobes to the power supply.
The system will then go through a flash CYCLE where it dissipates a total
of 80 joules of energy. One CYCLE occurs when: strobe #1 and #3 flash
simultaneously with 5 quick bursts (a.k.a. one "quintuple flash") and
this is followed by strobe #2 and #4 flashing 5 quick bursts
simultaneously. End of one CYCLE. In this example if you had all four
strobes connected, each strobe would dissipate 20 Joules per "quintuple
flash". If you wanted to break this down even further, each of the five
bursts in the "quintuple flash" is probably 4 joules each (I don't have
this specific info from Nova.....the burst-energy distribution in the
quintuple flash may be more like 8-3-3-3-3 to make up the 20 Joules per
"quintuple flash"). I do know that Whelen's Cometflash sytem works on
the exact same principle, the idea being to use a series of lower powered
bursts to give the visual impression of a LONGER flash, which appears to
the eye to be more visible than a single 20 Joule burst that only lasts a
fraction of a second.
OK, keeping in mind the CYCLE above, now what happens if you don't
connect all four strobes? The answer is a little tricky because the
power distribution depends on what combination of strobes you leave out.
The way Eugene at Nova explained it to me is that the strobes which flash
simultaneously.....lets take #1 and #3 for example....are connected to
the same electrical "bus" in the power supply. So this bus is putting
out 40 Joules of energy in one "quintuple flash" which is intended to be
split evenly between #1 and #3 at the same time. IF however you did not
connect #3, then all 40 Joules would go into #1. The same goes for the
second half of the CYCLE, if you leave out say strobe #2, then #4 will
get all 40 Joules dissipated in that half of the CYCLE. So when I talk
about 40 Joules into the two wingtip strobes on my airplane, it will be
an ALTERNATING pattern. I will connect the left wingtip to #1 which will
get 40 Joules in one "quintuple flash" in the first half of the CYCLE,
and then the right wingtip connected to #2 will get 40 Joules in the
second half of the CYCLE. Using strobes #1 and #2 is just one way of
doing it......you would get the EXACT same results by using the
combinations of 1 & 4, or 3 & 2, or 3 & 4. If you keep the flash pattern
described above in mind this will make sense.
I you've figured it out by now, it's not too hard to understand what
happens when you connect 3 strobes. You could connect strobes 1 and 3 to
the left wingtip and right wingtip respectively and then each of these
strobes would get 20 Joules per "quintuple flash" in the first half of
the CYCLE. Then if you connected #2 to the tail, this strobe would get
all 40 Joules dissipated in the second half of the CYCLE (since the tail
is getting all the energy intended for both #2 and #4).
And finally, if you ONLY connected two strobes and want them to flash
simultaneously, you cannot get 40 Joules per strobe this way. Lets say
you connect the wingtips to #1 and #3, they will flash together in the
first half of the CYCLE but will get only 20 Joules each. The second
half of the cycle where #2 and #4 would normally flash will NOT release
any energy if there are no strobes attached....the 40 Joule charge saved
up for the second half of the cycle will be retained (harmlessly) inside
the PS but you won't benefit from the extra energy potential of this big
90 Watt PS if you do it this way. You would be better off getting a
lower powered 2-strobe PS is you wanted to run only 2 strobes
*simultaneously*. This is why I'm ALTERNATING the two wingtips because
then you can get 40 Joules to each strobe in a CYCLE.
Sorry I don't know how to make it easier to understand. If it's still
confusing I'd try phone instead....maybe I can explain it better
verbally, or perhaps Eugene at Nova can explain it better. Or maybe I'm
full of baloney. : ) Or you could just buy one, plug it in, and watch
in amazement as it knocks your eyes out. It's a fun toy at least!
Good luck,
--Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net> |
| Subject: | Slider Canopy /Roll Bar Fit |
I have a RV6 QB with a slider canopy and am at the point of putting the
plexiglass canopy on the canopy frame for cutting and fitting. The roll bar
is in the correct position and is exactly perpendicular to the fuselage
deck. I've installed the canopy frame in position and on it's rollers and
centered. However, when I bring the canopy frame all the way forward and
lock the latch, the latch pulls the aft end of the canopy bow frame work up
above the aft deck skin rather high. In George Orndorff's videos, he
doesn't show locking the latch while he fits and drills the canopy, and he
talks about being able to move the aft slider rail to adjust the aft end of
the canopy frame up or down to fit the plexiglass correctly. But with the
front latch locked, the canopy frame is nearly immovable, and it pulls the
aft slider rail forward a couple inches more than I think it should be. Any
suggestions on what I'm doing wrong here?
Thanks
Duane Bentley
West Chester, OH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
To view the rv-8 video try nextelwny.com , I'll be there for a few days.
Steven DiNieri
Niagara Falls, New York
RV-6A, P28A-160
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Induction Systems |
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2001 10:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Induction Systems
>
> Terry,
>
> Can you tell me if the RV-8 "internal" induction system you're working on
is
> similar to the system used in the RV-7 with fuel injection?
John, I can only guess that Van used the "200" induction system from
the RV8 on the RV7. I know that the cowl for the 200 hp "7" is different
than the standard cowl.
As for you engine, you will have problems. The engine in the "8" I just
finished is
an O-360 180hp converted to use the sump and injection off the 200 hp
engine. This
sounds great , but it turned out that because the cylinders on the 180 are
shorter
than the ones on the 200, the induction from Vans did not fit and had to be
highly
modified. I can not remember the configuration of the B1B, but if it is
foward facing,
I doubt that you can fit an internal induction in the stock "6" cowl.Terry
B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy /Roll Bar Fit |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2001 10:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: Slider Canopy /Roll Bar Fit
>
> I have a RV6 QB with a slider canopy and am at the point of putting the
> plexiglass canopy on the canopy frame for cutting and fitting. The roll
bar
> is in the correct position and is exactly perpendicular to the fuselage
> deck. I've installed the canopy frame in position and on it's rollers and
> centered. However, when I bring the canopy frame all the way forward and
> lock the latch, the latch pulls the aft end of the canopy bow frame work
up
> above the aft deck skin rather high. In George Orndorff's videos, he
> doesn't show locking the latch while he fits and drills the canopy, and
he
> talks about being able to move the aft slider rail to adjust the aft end
of
> the canopy frame up or down to fit the plexiglass correctly. But with the
> front latch locked, the canopy frame is nearly immovable, and it pulls the
> aft slider rail forward a couple inches more than I think it should be.
Any
> suggestions on what I'm doing wrong here?
>
Dont feel alon e We are at the same stage with exactly the same
problems.Terry B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Switching from -6 to -7 |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rv6plt(at)cs.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2001 2:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Switching from -6 to -7
>
> Dick,
> Do you have any figures on how much tall and wider the 7 cockpit is
and
> how much additional leg room there is? Is the baggage compartment larger
also.
>
> John Henley
>
> No more width.Terry B.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: proseal or not tank reiforcement ring |
Bob,
I didn't proseal the reinforcement ring. What's the purpose? You've got a
big hole there that gets sealed up with a gasket and plate from the outside.
I used permetex aviation gasket sealer on both sides of the cork gasket.
The nut plates are a potential source for weeping gas so I used NAS 1473A08
floating nutplates so seal the screws. You can see that here.
http://bmnellis.com/wings_tanks_assembly2.htm
No leaks in this area at all during testing.
Mike
>
> Anyone have any thoughts about prosealing the reinforcement ring? I plan
to
> put a little on the outer of the ring. It appears in the last pic of vans
> manual that proseal was used. Guess it does not matter as long as I do not
> get any in the nutpate screw holes. Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Cantrell <kcflyrv(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Another.....RV6A Cowl Speed Mod |
"2R" Garry...
I think you really have a great idea. I've alway thought this is a real
speed improvement opportunity. For such a clean design, the flat spot above
the carb air inlet seems way too big. Do you have any pictures on a website
and/or more particular information to ad? How does it attach to the lower
cowl and how much speed did you gain?
Ken Cantrell
RV6-cowl & baffles, No Ca.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Garry LeGare" <versadek(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2001 8:55 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Another.....RV6A Cowl Speed Mod
>
> I've talked to a lot of 6 pilots, most agree that the area above the carb
air
> inlet is a drag producer. One of the ways to check for drag on a flying
airframe
> is to look for areas where the bugs haven't gotten out of the way. The
area
> above the carb inlet is always splattered with bugs.
>
> I have modified the air intake on my epoxy/glass cowl by extending it
forward
> and making it removable. This allows me to make a more gentle transition
above
> the air intake, (less drag) slow down the air box inside wall transition
(less
> turbulent air flow into the filter) and, use a longer tighter fitting
rubber
> piece between the air box and cowl ( less vibration transferred from the
engine
> to the cowl and less ram air pressure loss).
>
> Added benefits are you don't have to go through the ordeal of removing the
lower
> cowl as often. You can do a very thorough engine check, adjust carb and
change
> oil by just removing the snorkel (held on with nut plates and screws). And
if
> you do want to remove the lower cowl you don't need to remove the prop or
cover
> the front of the cowl with cardboard to protect it.
>
> The only Two "R" Garry on "The List".
>
> Garry LeGare EAA 94585
> Tech Counselor
> RV6 Finishing
>
> Ross wrote:
>
> >
> > Here is another idea for cleaning up the cowl.
> >
> > The area above the opening of the ram air carb intake is very flat
almost
> > like a piece of board. It seems this would cause a lot of drag. What
about
> > cleaning this up by making a fairing for this area and glass it into the
> > cowl?
> >
> > Ross
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
Hey list,
The plans call for MD-42 BS pop rivets to hold the ends of the elevator
pushrods into the aluminum tube. I can't find enough of those in my kit to
do the job but I have a whole bunch of MSP -42's. They look very similar.
Are they interchangable or should I order a small handfull from Van's?
Ed Holyoke
6QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy /Roll Bar Fit |
I had a similar problem. If I had it to do over again, I'd tilt the roll bar a
bit to make the slider frame (aft) align with the fuselage skin.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Inverted Tanks?? |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
04/25/2001 07:52:25 AM
Anyone retrofitted the flop tubes into completed tanks? How big a process
is this. In my great wisdom I decided I'd never have a fuel injected engine
so why bother. My IO-320 is cleaning up nicely.
Eric Henson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: proseal or not tank reiforcement ring |
--- Mike Nellis wrote:
>
> Bob,
>
> I didn't proseal the reinforcement ring. What's the purpose? You've got a
> big hole there that gets sealed up with a gasket and plate from the outside.
> I used permetex aviation gasket sealer on both sides of the cork gasket.
> The nut plates are a potential source for weeping gas so I used NAS 1473A08
> floating nutplates so seal the screws. You can see that here.
> http://bmnellis.com/wings_tanks_assembly2.htm
>
> No leaks in this area at all during testing.
>
> Mike
>
I used the same nutplates...had to remove two of them per tank because they
interfered with the fuel pick-up tube. Next time, I will probably just use
standard nutplates and generous proseal.
====
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy /Roll Bar Fit |
In a message dated 4/24/01 9:56:15 PM Central Daylight Time,
dbentley(at)fuse.net writes:
<< have a RV6 QB with a slider canopy and am at the point of putting the
plexiglass canopy on the canopy frame for cutting and fitting. The roll bar
is in the correct position and is exactly perpendicular to the fuselage
deck. I've installed the canopy frame in position and on it's rollers and
centered. However, when I bring the canopy frame all the way forward and
lock the latch, the latch pulls the aft end of the canopy bow frame work up
above the aft deck skin rather high. >>
Hi Duane,
Make sure the canopy frame is about 1/4" to 1/8" from the roll bar at the
bottom. The roller mechanism was touching the roll bar in mine and I had to
trim the lip on the roller mechanism so the frame would slide all the way
closed. If it is still pulling the aft end up, you will probably need to
tweek the frame a little. Set it on the floor with the roller mechanisms
touching the floor and forward top end off the floor and lean your weight
into the frame pushing down. The key is to have an even 1/8" to 1/4" gap
between the frame and the roll bar from top to bottom all the way around.
Its normal to have to tweek the frame on the sliders - most of us had to do
it to some degree.
Hope this helps.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (panel wiring)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy /Roll Bar Fit |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
04/25/2001 08:26:01 AM
Tim,
Let me make sure I'm clear on this. You would allow the slider front bow to
tilt aft? In other words having a constant gap between the roll bar and the
slider bow does not really count for anything. For some reason I'm kind of
hung up on that. I guess the glass will over lap and cover the differeing
angles. Am I on track here?
Thanks
Eric
"Tim Lewis" (at)matronics.com on 04/25/2001 03:18:25 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Slider Canopy /Roll Bar Fit
I had a similar problem. If I had it to do over again, I'd tilt the roll
bar a
bit to make the slider frame (aft) align with the fuselage skin.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Hello all,
I've just sold my RV-4, so the search is on for a
replacement.
My preference is a flying 200 hp RV-7, if someone's got one
for sale :-)
Seriously, if you know of a well built -6 that's for sale
(show planes not required or affordable), please respond off
list to:
cengland(at)netdoor.com
Thanks,
Charlie
flying -4, sold :-(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy /Roll Bar Fit |
> However, when I bring the canopy frame all the way forward
> and
> lock the latch, the latch pulls the aft end of the canopy bow frame
> work up above the aft deck skin rather high.
My experience with my -6 slider leads me to suggest you let the canopy
roll bar float to fit the frame. IOW, don't drill and secure the brace
to the roll bar first - lock the frame closed and get the aft end 1/8
to 1/4 inch lower than the aft skin - so that with the plexi on the
rear skins will be flush with the skin.
Then you can drill the roll bar brace and fit shims for the front holes
of the roll bar base. Mine tilted aft of perpendicular a bit when all
was said and done, but it fit the frame.
I think the whole canopy fitting thing is driven by that canopy frame,
and some are better than others.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy /Roll Bar Fit |
> However, when I bring the canopy frame all the way forward
> > and
> > lock the latch, the latch pulls the aft end of the canopy bow frame
> > work up above the aft deck skin rather high.
I think you are trying to latch it too soon. I fit the windscreen, canopy,
slider rail and canopy skirts before I tried to install and adjust the latch
. It sounds to me that your roller mounts are hitting the roll bar and
latching it is just pulling the canopy frame into the roll bar up at the top.
Adjusting the latch throw and forward portion of slider rail should be final
adjustments to pull everything tight in my HUMBLE opinion.
Kevin in WA -9a finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug and Kelly Snead <kellyndoug(at)yahoo.com> |
rv9-list(at)matronics.com
To any new RV builder,
> I have some basic tools for sale that I bought
> from Avery and from the Yard. If you would like
more
> information please write or call at:
>
> kellyndoug(at)yahoo.com
> 580-233-8997
>
>
> Doug
> Enid, OK
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug and Kelly Snead <kellyndoug(at)yahoo.com> |
rv9-list(at)matronics.com
To any new RV builder,
> I have some basic tools for sale that I bought
> from Avery and from the Yard. If you would like
more
> information please write or call at:
>
> kellyndoug(at)yahoo.com
> 580-233-8997
>
>
> Doug
> Enid, OK
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug and Kelly Snead <kellyndoug(at)yahoo.com> |
rv9-list(at)matronics.com
To any new RV builder,
> I have some basic tools for sale that I bought
> from Avery and from the Yard. If you would like
more
> information please write or call at:
>
> kellyndoug(at)yahoo.com
> 580-233-8997
>
>
> Doug
> Enid, OK
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Century Air Parts |
I am preparing to make a purchase from Century Air Parts of Staunton, IL.
They have been easy to deal with. I researched them through the archives
and other search engines. I haven't found out anything about them. Before
making a major purchase I would like to know whether this will be a good
experience. Anyone have any war stories - or accolades???
Ernest Kells RV-9A - Starting Fuselage, Planning: O-235 Wood Prop
Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: Century Air Parts |
I have done buisness with these people.I would recommend them.
Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another.....RV6A Cowl Speed Mod |
Ken,
Jim Blake contacted me off list yesterday requesting pics of the snorkel, so I
took my new digital camera and shot 4 pics, them transferred them into Microsoft
Picture it 2.0 and sent them to him. I don't know if it worked as I didn't hear
back from him. I've sent him a note this morning. As soon as he replies I'll
know it it worked or not. Any of you internet wizards care to help this old
dinosaur with getting the pics, your help would be most appreciated.
The snorkel is held on with K1000 nut plates and countersunk screws spaced about
6" apart.
I must caution you that this mod requires substantial work with
fiberglass/epoxy. If your not comfortable with composites you may want to
befriend someone who is.
No idea as to how it will effect performance as business pressures kept me from
working on the "6" for months. Just got back to working on it this weekend so,
I'm still FINISHING which translates into sanding, filling, sanding, filling
etc. Hope to fly this summer.
Garry LeGare EAA 94585
Tech Consular
RV6 Finishing
Ken Cantrell wrote:
>
> "2R" Garry...
> I think you really have a great idea. I've alway thought this is a real
> speed improvement opportunity. For such a clean design, the flat spot above
> the carb air inlet seems way too big. Do you have any pictures on a website
> and/or more particular information to ad? How does it attach to the lower
> cowl and how much speed did you gain?
>
> Ken Cantrell
> RV6-cowl & baffles, No Ca.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Garry LeGare" <versadek(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2001 8:55 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Another.....RV6A Cowl Speed Mod
>
> >
> > I've talked to a lot of 6 pilots, most agree that the area above the carb
> air
> > inlet is a drag producer. One of the ways to check for drag on a flying
> airframe
> > is to look for areas where the bugs haven't gotten out of the way. The
> area
> > above the carb inlet is always splattered with bugs.
> >
> > I have modified the air intake on my epoxy/glass cowl by extending it
> forward
> > and making it removable. This allows me to make a more gentle transition
> above
> > the air intake, (less drag) slow down the air box inside wall transition
> (less
> > turbulent air flow into the filter) and, use a longer tighter fitting
> rubber
> > piece between the air box and cowl ( less vibration transferred from the
> engine
> > to the cowl and less ram air pressure loss).
> >
> > Added benefits are you don't have to go through the ordeal of removing the
> lower
> > cowl as often. You can do a very thorough engine check, adjust carb and
> change
> > oil by just removing the snorkel (held on with nut plates and screws). And
> if
> > you do want to remove the lower cowl you don't need to remove the prop or
> cover
> > the front of the cowl with cardboard to protect it.
> >
> > The only Two "R" Garry on "The List".
> >
> > Garry LeGare EAA 94585
> > Tech Counselor
> > RV6 Finishing
> >
> > Ross wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Here is another idea for cleaning up the cowl.
> > >
> > > The area above the opening of the ram air carb intake is very flat
> almost
> > > like a piece of board. It seems this would cause a lot of drag. What
> about
> > > cleaning this up by making a fairing for this area and glass it into the
> > > cowl?
> > >
> > > Ross
> > >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Attaway" <attaway(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV6-List: tools for sale |
Hey Doug, Thanks for the offer on those tools but I don't need any. But if
I here of someone I will send them to you.
Thanks, Robbie
PS check out my web site www.attawayair.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug and Kelly
Snead
Sent: 4/25/2001 7:34:38 AM
Subject: RV6-List: tools for sale
-- RV6-List message posted by: Doug and Kelly Snead kellyndoug(at)yahoo.com
To any new RV builder,
I have some basic tools for sale that I
bought
from Avery and from the Yard. If you would like
more
information please write or call at:
kellyndoug(at)yahoo.com
580-233-8997
Doug
Enid, OK
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
http://www.matronics.com/order
--- Robert Attaway
--- attaway(at)earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Century Air Parts |
I ordered most of my flight instruments from them and was happy with the
prices and service. This was 5 years ago, but I wouldn't hesitate to order
from them again.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)micron.net
> I am preparing to make a purchase from Century Air Parts of Staunton, IL.
> They have been easy to deal with. I researched them through the archives
> and other search engines. I haven't found out anything about them.
Before
> making a major purchase I would like to know whether this will be a good
> experience. Anyone have any war stories - or accolades???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel pump question (RV-4) |
My engine mount interferes with the hose that runs from the engine driven
fuel pump output to the carburetor. It fits but the hose is pretty snug up
against the engine mount. Any other 4 builders/flyers have this problem?
What did you do to correct it? The fitting on the fuel pump that the hose
attaches to is a 90 deg fitting. I was thinking of replacing it with a 45
deg fitting. Good idea or not?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Threaded rod extensions |
Recently I had a problem when mounting my engine control cables. The
bulkhead that I used to anchor the cables in the cockpit of my RV-4 put them
too far away from my throttle quadrant. I had already drilled out the
rivets and was relocating my quadrant when I found something that will save
my bacon in the Aircraft Spruce catalog. On page 155 they sell threaded rod
extensions. Part number is 10376-n where n is the length in inches.
Available lengths are 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 inches. They should show up in a
few days.
Maybe this will help another builder out there facing the same problem.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: proseal or not tank reiforcement ring |
Mike, where did you find the permetex aviation sealer?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Hughes" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MD-42 BS rivets |
They are interchangeable. I had to call Van's to order some of the ones
called on the plans. They told me that are using the MSP-42's.
Keith Hughes
Unpacking my FINISH (never thought I'd say that!!!) kit!
Parker, CO
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2001 10:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: MD-42 BS rivets
>
> Hey list,
> The plans call for MD-42 BS pop rivets to hold the ends of the elevator
> pushrods into the aluminum tube. I can't find enough of those in my kit to
> do the job but I have a whole bunch of MSP -42's. They look very similar.
> Are they interchangable or should I order a small handfull from Van's?
>
> Ed Holyoke
> 6QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | innertube replacement |
Thread-Topic: innertube replacement
Thread-Index: AcDNtbbxwVhF3+8uTjethiuRaGjJtg=
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Hi Folks,
Those of you who have flying airplanes, are you replacing the tubes when
you put new tires on? I just ran down to the local aviation supply shop
in Indy during lunch and picked up a new set of tires, and they say that
Michelin recommends replacing the tube when you change tires. I haven't
decided if I should go ahead and replace the tubes, but bought them
anyway because I like to spend money on anything that is deemed worthy
for an airplane. Six-ply condors ran $38.00 each, but the tubes were
just as much!
I have 116 hours on my tires, and have rotated them once. Looks like I
can get another 40-50 hours out of them before those suckers are bald.
My bird lives on a grass strip which dramatically improves tire life.
It's those darn paved runways that eat up my tires.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 116 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: innertube replacement |
--- Bob Japundza wrote:
>
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> Those of you who have flying airplanes, are you replacing the tubes
> when
> you put new tires on? I just ran down to the local aviation supply
> shop
> in Indy during lunch and picked up a new set of tires, and they say
> that
> Michelin recommends replacing the tube when you change tires. I
> haven't
> decided if I should go ahead and replace the tubes, but bought them
> anyway because I like to spend money on anything that is deemed
> worthy
> for an airplane. Six-ply condors ran $38.00 each, but the tubes were
> just as much!
>
> I have 116 hours on my tires, and have rotated them once. Looks like
> I
> can get another 40-50 hours out of them before those suckers are
> bald.
> My bird lives on a grass strip which dramatically improves tire life.
> It's those darn paved runways that eat up my tires.
>
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 116 hours
Bob:
As I approach 800 hours, I have not replaced my tubes yet.
Original tires were Condor and they lasted about 250 hours. 2nd Set
were Goodyear and they were on 400 hours. 3rd set is also Goodyear.
I have only landed on grass about 3 times. All the others are paved.
My airplane averages about 1.1 flight hours per landing. Yes I do go
out and do TAG. (Touch And Goes)
The Condor tires are cheaper than the Goodyear and they may be a better
value. (cost per landing) I picked up the Goodyear tires on the
airplane now at Arlington last year at a good price.
99% of the landings are 3 point full stall so there is minimum ground
roll and tire speed.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
780+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: innertube replacement |
Another question along this line:
Has anybody found a source for inner tubes that are synthetic instead of
natural rubber?
The "aircraft" natural rubber tubes are porous enough to leak down in a
few weeks. I would like to install synthetic rubber tubes for less leak
down since very low temperature operations are not a factor in my case.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 Classic)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiway.net/~sbuc/journal
====================
Bob Japundza wrote:
>
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> Those of you who have flying airplanes, are you replacing the tubes when
> you put new tires on? I just ran down to the local aviation supply shop
> in Indy during lunch and picked up a new set of tires, and they say that
> Michelin recommends replacing the tube when you change tires. I haven't
> decided if I should go ahead and replace the tubes, but bought them
> anyway because I like to spend money on anything that is deemed worthy
> for an airplane. Six-ply condors ran $38.00 each, but the tubes were
> just as much!
>
> I have 116 hours on my tires, and have rotated them once. Looks like I
> can get another 40-50 hours out of them before those suckers are bald.
> My bird lives on a grass strip which dramatically improves tire life.
> It's those darn paved runways that eat up my tires.
>
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 116 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | tank gasket sealer |
I have searched archives and can find little re: the type of sealant used for
the rubberized cork gaskets. Van says to use a commercial gasket sealer. I
would like to know what has been successful. I WILL NOT use pro seal for
this. I was thinking about using a permatex gasket sealer that NAPPA offers,
yet I have seen some that say use permatex aviation gasket sealer. I can not
find that in Wicks. Suggestions Guys? Thanks, Bob in AR
BTW (earlier post), the proseal I mixed with only 1/2 the recommended
accelerator is curing but very slowly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: innertube replacement |
Bob,
You will be impressed with the life of the Condors. About 3 times the
number of landings as the Aero Trainers. It is not necessary to replace the
innertubes when replacing tires but I had a leak problem with my original
tubes from Vans. Replaced them with Goodyears and that problem is gone. Also,
to extend tire life, when about 1/4 tread is left on the outside of the
tires, take the tires off the wheel and put the part that was on the outside,
on the inside. They will last a long time.
John Henley, N6LD, 450 HRS and waiting on RV7 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: innertube replacement |
>
> Those of you who have flying airplanes, are you replacing the tubes when
> you put new tires on? I just ran down to the local aviation supply shop
> in Indy during lunch and picked up a new set of tires, and they say that
> Michelin recommends replacing the tube when you change tires. I haven't
> decided if I should go ahead and replace the tubes, but bought them
> anyway because I like to spend money on anything that is deemed worthy
> for an airplane. Six-ply condors ran $38.00 each, but the tubes were
> just as much!
>
> I have 116 hours on my tires, and have rotated them once. Looks like I
> can get another 40-50 hours out of them before those suckers are bald.
> My bird lives on a grass strip which dramatically improves tire life.
> It's those darn paved runways that eat up my tires.
>
> Bob Japundza
Bob:
Personally I would always buy new tubes when I replace the tires as a
precaution again wear and deterioration. My RV-4 have 150 hours on Goodyear
tires and they probably are about 1/2 of their life (all flying on paved
surface). I would recommend high quality tires (Goodyear or Michelin). I
had a set of Michelins on my Cessna 180 that lasted many years. They are
great tires.
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: tank gasket sealer |
clairifcation........ The stuff that NAPA sells is called Aviation
Form-A-Gasket.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVilla <jodyvilla(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | ADC filter & chip detection and prop governors |
Does anyone have first hand experience with the ADC screen oil filter and
chip detection system? If you do, do you think it is worth the money? I
like the idea of getting a heads up if there might be a catastrophic
failure of my engine but the costs are twice an Airwolf or some other
remote oil filtering system. The other plus for the ADC system is the
simplicity of oil changes and the savings on the expense of filters. If I
go this route I will have an Airwolf remote system for an IO360 for sale.
Your comments gladly accepted.
One other item I would like comment on are prop governors. I know Van's use
to sell Woodward governors and doesn't anymore. Spoke to Dale today and he
said that Woodward raised their prices by 50% so they elected not to carry
them anymore. Somewhere in the back of my mind I remember some bad things
being said about McCauley governors but can't remember specifics. Is a new
McCauley as good as a rebuilt Woodward? Any comments on the differences in
the two?
TIA
Jody Villa
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | innertube replacement |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: innertube replacement
Thread-Index: AcDNw7OjuprbiPrQSiCYO+Q6UyYCiwAAA1PQ
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Hi Sam,
The tubes I bought today are Michelin tubes and their claim to fame is
their tubes are made of butyl rubber which don't leak down as bad
through diffusion like the "other" tubes do. I too have to air up my
tires every few weeks.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 116 hours
>Has anybody found a source for inner tubes that are synthetic instead
of
>natural rubber?
>
>The "aircraft" natural rubber tubes are porous enough to leak down in a
>few weeks. I would like to install synthetic rubber tubes for less leak
>down since very low temperature operations are not a factor in my
case.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | O-320 E2D Carburetor |
| From: | Gary Graham <beeb(at)teleport.com> |
This subject as it relates to the problem of engine rough running warranted
a question to Pugsley, my dog. He said he would talk about O-320's for a
milk bone, but it would take a filet to talk about O-360 carbs. I went for
the milk bone. Then I told him what I had been reading on the Net.
Pugsley said: Well Clem. The O-320 E2D started out with a 10-5009. An
optional field mod (to improve engine roughness under certain conditions) of
the atomizer made it a 5009N which was called a 10-5135 as a new unit. Then
it changed to a 10-5217(Havn't got a parts list for this model). Don't
forget that along the way, a new one piece venturi and a metal float were AD
changed/added (with varying success by the repairman).
These MA-4 SPA carburetors(in good shape with no mods) should work fine on
320 cubic inch engines from sea level (high pressure days) through the
service ceiling of common light aircraft (Producing whatever power is
normal). If you can't lean/enrichen the carb enough to get the appropriate
mixture for your altitude and atmospheric conditions, look to equipment
problems first ( i.e. induction system leaks, fuel supply that can't keep
up, float adjustment (good needle/seat) or miss alignment of the mixture arm
on it's valve). I know of one human whose MA-4 bottom half almost fell off
the RV-4 before he couldn't keep the engine running smoothly with mixture
control and had to pull the cowl and look ( the mixture control can hide
problems right up to the point you become a glider). Another fellow with an
intermittent rough engine almost had replaced or checked everything before
he found that brand new plug that acted out now and then. If you operate
from a high altitude airpark on a regular basis, I would think that
drilling the main jet smaller would be a good idea. Not.
O-360's with Ma4.5's that have the Economizer circuit is another story of
adjustment to the application. They are to complex for this old
dog......................
Mans best friend, Pugsley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Schilling" <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | tank gasket sealer |
Any good auto parts store should have it.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 2:08 PM
Subject: RV-List: tank gasket sealer
I have searched archives and can find little re: the type of sealant used
for
the rubberized cork gaskets. Van says to use a commercial gasket sealer. I
would like to know what has been successful. I WILL NOT use pro seal for
this. I was thinking about using a permatex gasket sealer that NAPPA offers,
yet I have seen some that say use permatex aviation gasket sealer. I can not
find that in Wicks. Suggestions Guys? Thanks, Bob in AR
BTW (earlier post), the proseal I mixed with only 1/2 the recommended
accelerator is curing but very slowly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: proseal or not tank reiforcement ring |
My buddy Paul gave me some he used for his -6 but you can get it from ACS
and Wicks. It's called Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket no 3.
Mike Nellis
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
RV-6 N699BM (reserved)N
Plainfield, IL (LOT)
Building Flaps
http://bmnellis.com
>
> Mike, where did you find the permetex aviation sealer?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tank gasket sealer |
Top of page 89 in the current Wicks catalog and bottom of page 297 in ACS.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 2:07 PM
Subject: RV-List: tank gasket sealer
>
> I have searched archives and can find little re: the type of sealant used
for
> the rubberized cork gaskets. Van says to use a commercial gasket sealer. I
> would like to know what has been successful. I WILL NOT use pro seal for
> this. I was thinking about using a permatex gasket sealer that NAPPA
offers,
> yet I have seen some that say use permatex aviation gasket sealer. I can
not
> find that in Wicks. Suggestions Guys? Thanks, Bob in AR
> BTW (earlier post), the proseal I mixed with only 1/2 the recommended
> accelerator is curing but very slowly.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump question (RV-4) |
I used a straight fitting and went around the exhaust to the injector. I
fire sleeved the hose and fab two heat shields and mounted to the exhaust.
Carey Mills
RV4 130hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Inclination on fuel pump |
Kevan,
I don't know what happened but I just received this post. I think I had something
to
do with my switch over to Sprint Broad band as it was posted on the same day as
the
switch was made.
I would just like to add that I agree with you completely. The Q2 and RV6 fuel
systems are very different, that is why I said so and made the comparison in my
post.
I think the significant difference is that the RV system must pull (suck) a much
longer distance, through many more restrictions than the Q2 system. This type of
pump prefers pushing to pulling, so this is significant.
You said "it seems that you have never ran the pump dry and then immediately had
it
reprime in the Q2." Actually when the lower tank would start to run low on fuel,
the
pump would run dry, as there was little sump effect, in the bottom tank. The pump
would be turned off. Later while flying straight and level, and after the overflow
fuel from the top tank found it's way down to the lower tank, the pump would be
turned back on, reprime itself, run dry and eventually be turned off.
The pump on the Q2 system had no problem priming itself, But and it's an important
but, The RV6 system has to pull (suck) a much longer way each time, to reprime
itself, and if it doesn't the engine quits. On the Q2 the carb was gravity fed
by
the top tank. If the pump stopped for what ever reason, it didn't really matter,
as
I still had almost 2 hours fuel left.
I applaud your suggestion that they test their fuel systems actual performance.
I
would just add that they should probably start the test, at least 5000 feet AGL.
Another test that all builders should perform is a max fuel flow test. To do this
fill your fuel tanks to about half full and then jig up your aircraft in a normal
climb attitude. Disconnect the fuel line at the carb. While you sit in the cockpit,
have someone hold a 5 gallon container so that any fuel that comes out of the fuel
line will go into the container. With the fuel selector on the left tank, turn
on
the fuel pump for 10 minutes, measure and record the amount of fuel pumped and
repeat for the right tank. Multiply the amount of fuel pumped from each tank by
6 to
get your total gallons per hour fuel flow. This amount should be 1 1/2 times the
maximum fuel flow for your particular engine. You don't want to use your cruise
fuel
flow numbers. You want to use the manufactures max fuel flow numbers
Sorry for the long winded post, but I think it was needed to clarify the situation.
Garry LeGare EAA94585
Tech Counselor
RV6 Finishing
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
> Garry,
>
> While your Q2 experience does give a certain level of comfort, the
> differences between the Q2 and RV design and operation make it
> difficult to take full credit for the Q2 service history when
> considering our aircraft. For example, it seems that you have never
> ran the pump dry and then immediately had it reprime in the Q2. Even
> if your fuel system was installed as Van recommended, it would be a
> good idea to find out what happens when you run a tank dry. I would
> rather do this test under controlled conditions than to find out the
> hard way when this happens and you are not expecting it.
> ==========================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ADC filter & chip detection and prop governors |
----- Original Message -----
From: "JVilla" <jodyvilla(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 3:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: ADC filter & chip detection and prop governors
Jody:
I have 200 hours on the ADC oil filter system in a 4 with an O-320. I have
had no problems and like it for all the reasons you listed. Just as they
predicted the "bypass" light came on twice in the first 20 hours on the
engine. The filter had picked up a small amount of lint/gasket material
etc.
The bypass light will also come on for a few minutes after a cold (20F or
so) start. It goes out as the oil temp starts to rise. Filter screen
cleaning is easy but one does have to exercise care in re-assemble of the
components, the screen is not bi-directional. I also believe their claims
that the filter lowers oil temps 10 degrees or so. With the cooler on the
rear baffle behind #4 cyl I have it 90% closed by a plate on the exit side
in all but the hottest weather. This was necessary to get the oil up to
180. Along with the cost it is also heavier than a stock system, about 6
lbs if I recall correctly. The additional hoses and connections represent
added potential failure points; but I think the early oil contamination
warning is worth the down side factors.
Dick Sipp
RV-4 200 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
Hi,
I have my tail fairing fitting beautifully! :-) I have used the screw
hold-down pattern that Van's shows on the plans. The fairing fits so
well, that I want to fill sone of the hold down screw holes that I made,
they really don't seem necessary. What is the minimum number of
holddown screws I can get away with? Also which ones are the most
critical?
-Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
N442E Reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joel_Haynes(at)powderject.com |
04/25/2001 06:10:14 PM
Listers:
Long time lurker is now a builder!
I received my 7 emp kit (#30) recently and have launched into the HS. I
fall into the conservative group and want to use a mil spec epoxy primer.
I would appreciate any listers' comments on Sterling's U-1201 strontium
chromate epoxy primer. Likes, dislikes, ease of use, etc.
TIA
Joel Haynes
7a emp
Mazomanie, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Fairing |
> What is the minimum number of
> holddown screws I can get away with?
Would you believe two?
:)
Some of the best fairing-fit examples fit like a glove and have but two
screws holding them down at the back.
Good luck!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Everyone please be civil in answering our new friends question!! If you're
tired of primer questions then don't answer, but please don't flame him!
--
Scott (defender of the faith) VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Joel_Haynes(at)powderject.com
[mailto:Joel_Haynes(at)powderject.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 4:10 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Sterling U-1201
Long time lurker is now a builder!
I received my 7 emp kit (#30) recently and have launched
into the HS. I
fall into the conservative group and want to use a mil spec
epoxy primer.
I would appreciate any listers' comments on Sterling's
U-1201 strontium
chromate epoxy primer. Likes, dislikes, ease of use, etc.
TIA
Joel Haynes
7a emp
Mazomanie, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Fairing |
Glenn,
Take a look at this web page and you can get an idea of how little screws
are needed to hold the emp. fairing on. If I recall correctly there was
only 3 per side.
http://www.bmnellis.com/FlyIns/Morris.htm
Mike Nellis
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
RV-6 N699BM (reserved)N
Plainfield, IL (LOT)
Building Flaps
http://bmnellis.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 4:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: Tail Fairing
>
> Hi,
>
> I have my tail fairing fitting beautifully! :-) I have used the screw
> hold-down pattern that Van's shows on the plans. The fairing fits so
> well, that I want to fill sone of the hold down screw holes that I made,
> they really don't seem necessary. What is the minimum number of
> holddown screws I can get away with? Also which ones are the most
> critical?
>
> -Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
> N442E Reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: tank gasket sealer |
I used Fuel Lube for the gaskets and all of the screw threads and fittings.
No fuel in tanks yet but sealed against air during leak tests. All the old
timers seem to recommend it so that was good enough for me. Can't beat the
wisdom of the old for knowing what works.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (wiring)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Holley Questions |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Holley Questions |
Hello All,
I have a few questions on using the Holley 2Bbl. on the Chevy 4.3L, Such
as in Jess Meyers' RV and several Stardusters I've read about. First,
where are they getting the air for induction? Most of the pictures
I've seen has a "foam and mesh" type air cleaner on it. I know that
Meyers uses plenum ducting to the radiator but, what about the carb?
Also, does anyone have a source on the mixture block used on the
Holley? My automotive suppliers don't seem to have a clue...
Jim Duckett
Sun River, MT.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | tank gasket sealer |
> I have searched archives and can find little re: the type of sealant
> used for the rubberized cork gaskets. Van says to use a commercial
> gasket sealer. I would like to know what has been successful.
>I was thinking about using a permatex
> gasket sealer that NAPPA offers, yet I have seen some that say use
> permatex aviation gasket sealer. I can not find that in Wicks.
I used Permatex gasket sealer, as recommended during a phone call
with Van's. Mistake. After 6 months of flying the permatex
deteriorated, leaked, and gunked up the fuel tank. I tried new gaskets
with fuel lube. Still leaked.
>I WILL
> NOT use pro seal for this.
IMO you're depriving yourself of the simplest solution. Pro seal
works great in this application, and if the tanks have to be opened up
you can remove the access plate with a sharp putty knife (a hint I got
from Scott McDaniels, as I recall).
Tim
220 hours (flew to Boston and back today, Uncle Sam paid for the gas)
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | dumb question # 44499776 |
has anyone decided to replace the van's supplied cowl with a different
cowl?...I sure would like to change mine, but havn't heard of anyone
around the portland-salem washington aerea doing it...any
comments?...thanks...jolly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: tank gasket sealer |
There are few things more frustrating than having to repair your new toy. I
sealed my tank access plates with proseal. No leaks.
A buddy used permatex. It leaked after 100 LL was added to the equation.
Then he used fuel lube. It leaked after a few hours. Now he's using
proseal. No leaks so far. As someone posted earlier, go with the solution
that is most likely to work (proseal). This isn't a fun area to mess with
after the airplane is assembled.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy /Roll Bar Fit |
In a message dated 4/25/01 3:22:58 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net writes:
<<
I had a similar problem. If I had it to do over again, I'd tilt the roll
bar a
bit to make the slider frame (aft) align with the fuselage skin.
>>
I agree with Tim Lewis. I went back and refit mine with roll bar tilted back
to match slider frame angle when slider frame was in alignment with rear
skin. You cannot tell by looking at it that it is not perpendicular to side
decks.
Dale Ensing
6A finishing wiring
Aero Plantation NC21
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inverted Tanks?? |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 7:51 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Inverted Tanks??
>
>
> Anyone retrofitted the flop tubes into completed tanks? How big a process
> is this. In my great wisdom I decided I'd never have a fuel injected
engine
> so why bother. My IO-320 is cleaning up nicely.
>
> Eric Henson
>
The tube is easy. The hard part is moving the sender to the next bay. And
worse than that is tring to get all the chips out.Terry B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | tank gasket sealer |
I elected to use the Pro-Seal method (as opposed to just the cork and lube)
after one 3 time RV builder and one 4 time RV builder advised me to do this.
As far as I recall, both builders/pilots experienced leaks after a few
months flying otherwise.
Of course, there may be many RV builders that have flown for hundreds of
hours without Pro-Seal and no leaks. I'm sure there are various qualities of
the lube/sealer being used.
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Lewis
Sent: April 25, 2001 9:37 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: tank gasket sealer
> I have searched archives and can find little re: the type of sealant
> used for the rubberized cork gaskets. Van says to use a commercial
> gasket sealer. I would like to know what has been successful.
>I was thinking about using a permatex
> gasket sealer that NAPPA offers, yet I have seen some that say use
> permatex aviation gasket sealer. I can not find that in Wicks.
I used Permatex gasket sealer, as recommended during a phone call
with Van's. Mistake. After 6 months of flying the permatex
deteriorated, leaked, and gunked up the fuel tank. I tried new gaskets
with fuel lube. Still leaked.
>I WILL
> NOT use pro seal for this.
IMO you're depriving yourself of the simplest solution. Pro seal
works great in this application, and if the tanks have to be opened up
you can remove the access plate with a sharp putty knife (a hint I got
from Scott McDaniels, as I recall).
Tim
220 hours (flew to Boston and back today, Uncle Sam paid for the gas)
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: innertube replacement |
Sam,
It is my understanding that the Michelin tubes are made of synthetic rubber.
Bill RV-8 N48WD
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 3:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: innertube replacement
>
> Another question along this line:
>
> Has anybody found a source for inner tubes that are synthetic instead of
> natural rubber?
>
> The "aircraft" natural rubber tubes are porous enough to leak down in a
> few weeks. I would like to install synthetic rubber tubes for less leak
> down since very low temperature operations are not a factor in my case.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6 Classic)
> "The RV Journal" http://home.hiway.net/~sbuc/journal
>
> ====================
>
> Bob Japundza wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi Folks,
> >
> > Those of you who have flying airplanes, are you replacing the tubes when
> > you put new tires on? I just ran down to the local aviation supply shop
> > in Indy during lunch and picked up a new set of tires, and they say that
> > Michelin recommends replacing the tube when you change tires. I haven't
> > decided if I should go ahead and replace the tubes, but bought them
> > anyway because I like to spend money on anything that is deemed worthy
> > for an airplane. Six-ply condors ran $38.00 each, but the tubes were
> > just as much!
> >
> > I have 116 hours on my tires, and have rotated them once. Looks like I
> > can get another 40-50 hours out of them before those suckers are bald.
> > My bird lives on a grass strip which dramatically improves tire life.
> > It's those darn paved runways that eat up my tires.
> >
> > Bob Japundza
> > RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 116 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Fairing |
In a message dated 4/25/01 6:34:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net writes:
<< I have my tail fairing fitting beautifully! :-) >>
Good work Glenn. Did you use Van's fairing?
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Tip-Up Canopy Sealing |
Hi,
Besides using a "Targa" strip at the tip-up canopy/rear window junction
on an RV-6, what are some other methods of sealing this area up from
rain and wind? The rear window/roll bar junction is an easy one, but
how about the canopy to the roll bar junction?
Thanks,
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MD-42 BS rivets |
In a message dated 4/24/01 9:53:02 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bicyclop(at)pacbell.net writes:
> Hey list,
> The plans call for MD-42 BS pop rivets to hold the ends of the elevator
> pushrods into the aluminum tube. I can't find enough of those in my kit to
> do the job but I have a whole bunch of MSP -42's. They look very similar.
> Are they interchangable or should I order a small handfull from Van's?
>
>
I didn`t like those rivets there, I had my tube ends tig welded.
Fred LaForge RV-4 180 CS EAA tech counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: dumb question # 44499776 |
sir, I think Rocket Engineering has a cowling, though I wonder why you
don't use Vans. I am finishing my -8, and will use Vans cowling with some
modification. Good Luck.
dan
81243 finishing
N417SN reserved
>--> RV8-List message posted by: old ogre
>
>has anyone decided to replace the van's supplied cowl with a different
>cowl?...I sure would like to change mine, but havn't heard of anyone
>around the portland-salem washington aerea doing it...any
>comments?...thanks...jolly
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | tank gasket sealer |
There are really two issues to consider when installing gaskets and what
sealer to use. Do you use cork or paper for your gasket? And should you
use a hardening (pro seal) or non hardening ( fuel lube etc.) sealer.
Fwiw I used 1/8" paper and Permatex non hardening gasket sealer on my
tanks and after 7 years and 1400+ hours I have yet too have a leak.
Should you ever have to "go in" you will have to chip out the pro seal
but the non hardening permatex will clean a lot easier.
Your mileage may vary.
Tom
RV3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: dumb question # 44499776 |
Randy Lervold is using an alternate cowl and to the best of my knowledge
Camas, WA is still pretty close to Ptld.
When I used to live in Gresham we always wanted to blow the place up to get
rid of the smell but I don't think anyone every went through with it.
Sorry Randy, had to be said.
Mike Nellis
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
RV-6 N699BM (reserved)N
Plainfield, IL (LOT)
Building Flaps
http://bmnellis.com
>
> has anyone decided to replace the van's supplied cowl with a different
> cowl?...I sure would like to change mine, but havn't heard of anyone
> around the portland-salem washington aerea doing it...any
> comments?...thanks...jolly
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rscott(at)involved.com (Richard Scott) |
| Subject: | Switching from -6 to -7 |
They said the cockpit has 1.5" more leg room, 2" (I think) more headroom.
Width they said was the same. We didn't discuss baggage room, as that was
not a concern for me. Space and cost were my concerns and the price to
switch was right: $105 for the elevator skins & $425 for new rudder & vert.
stab. This is in spite of their web page saying someone in my situation
might as well start over.
RS
Beginning
Subject: Re: RV-List: Switching from -6 to -7
Dick,
Do you have any figures on how much tall and wider the 7 cockpit is and
how much additional leg room there is? Is the baggage compartment larger
also.
John Henley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rscott(at)involved.com (Richard Scott) |
Compared to the -6:
Advantages:
Faster build because almost everything is prepunched. Requires little or no
jigging and aligning. They list the minimum build time as 1,000 hrs. This
is probably for QB, but I didn't ask, since I know I won't spend the extra
for a QB.
If you dent a part, the prepunch feature lets you replace it with another
exact fit part from the factory. But on the -6 if you want to replace a
fuselage skin you will have a job drilling the skin to match existing
bulkhead holes.
A little more leg & head room.
Higher VNE.
Disadvantage: A little spendier, probably $2,000 more.
Probably some other advantages and disadvantages, but this is what I got
from the factory.
RS
Starting a -7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Nick Harris
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 8:17 AM
Subject: RV-List: Fw: RV-7
----- Original Message -----
From: Nick Harris
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 10:15 AM
Subject: RV-7
WHAT'S EVERYONE THINK OF THE RV-7?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: innertube replacement |
Bob,
I think it depends on where you're located and what type of strip you
usually land at. For example, if you live in an especially hot climate
like the desert southwest and operate primarily off of paved strips, I would
tend to be conservative and change the tubes with the tires. If you live in
a cooler climate and operate primarily off of grass strips, then as long as
there's no evidence of chaffing or stress at the valve stem, I would be
inclined to reuse the tube.
I operate off of a grass strip with a 182 and reuse my tubes. For what its
worth.
John Warren
RV-6 N645W (not flying yet!)
LaCenter WA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 11:29 AM
Subject: RV-List: innertube replacement
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> Those of you who have flying airplanes, are you replacing the tubes when
> you put new tires on? I just ran down to the local aviation supply shop
> in Indy during lunch and picked up a new set of tires, and they say that
> Michelin recommends replacing the tube when you change tires. I haven't
> decided if I should go ahead and replace the tubes, but bought them
> anyway because I like to spend money on anything that is deemed worthy
> for an airplane. Six-ply condors ran $38.00 each, but the tubes were
> just as much!
>
> I have 116 hours on my tires, and have rotated them once. Looks like I
> can get another 40-50 hours out of them before those suckers are bald.
> My bird lives on a grass strip which dramatically improves tire life.
> It's those darn paved runways that eat up my tires.
>
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 116 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: innertube replacement |
In a message dated 4/25/01 12:04:33 PM Pacific Daylight Time, sbuc(at)hiwaay.net
writes:
>
> Has anybody found a source for inner tubes that are synthetic instead of
> natural rubber?
>
> The "aircraft" natural rubber tubes are porous enough to leak down in a
> few weeks. I would like to install synthetic rubber tubes for less leak
> down since very low temperature operations are not a factor in my case.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6 Classic)
> "The RV Journal" http://home.hiway.net/~sbuc/journal
>
>
Sam, I found an industrial tube (wheelbarrow or something) It`s not
quit the correct size and I havent installed then yet. One day I`ll get brave
and put them on.
Fred LaForge RV-4 180 CS EAA tech counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
Listers,
How much is 5.5 gals left in the tank?
I've always felt reserved after about 2.5 hours of flying with my O-320/160.
9.5gal/hr. I always feel silly when refueling because both tanks would only
take 20 gals or so to fill up. I came back from SnF this year with an
additional data point - 3.0 hours engine start to stop. 27 gals when
refueled. That left 11 gals total, or 5.5 gals in each tank. How much is
that at the bottom?
I'm worried about getting to the destination in choppy wx and the ball is
off centered. How low can I affort to go before the pickup tube is exposed
to air off and on? I'd hate to think of having only 30 minutes of reserve,
or roughly 5 gals total - 2.5 gals in each tank.
Appreciate all comments....
Anh
-6
N985VU
Maryland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Remaining |
In a message dated 4/26/01 12:03:29 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net writes:
> I'm worried about getting to the destination in choppy wx and the ball is
> off centered. How low can I affort to go before the pickup tube is exposed
> to air off and on? I'd hate to think of having only 30 minutes of reserve,
> or roughly 5 gals total - 2.5 gals in each tank.
> Appreciate all comments....
> Anh
> -6
> N985VU
> Maryland
>
A good piece of advise I got once upon a time was not to run both tanks low.
In the example you cite, run one tank almost dry, then fly off of the
remaining tank for the rest of the flight. That will reduce the chances of
running a tank dry or unporting a pickup at an inconvenient time (like at low
altitude nearing the field, or in the pattern).
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy /Roll Bar Fit |
> when I bring the canopy frame all the way forward and lock the latch, the
>latch pulls the aft end of the canopy bow framework up
> above the aft deck skin rather high
The frame is mis-manufactured, Duane. Mine was too and I believe all are.
I cut the bow (the fore and aft center bow that is) just behind the lock.
Then I added a piece to lengthen the bow. Do this before attaching the
plastic. All should work B4 installing plastic.
Didn't you find the front bow to be too wide?
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Remaining |
--- wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net wrote:
>
> Listers,
> How much is 5.5 gals left in the tank?
> I've always felt reserved after about 2.5 hours of flying with my
> O-320/160.
> 9.5gal/hr. I always feel silly when refueling because both tanks
> would only
> take 20 gals or so to fill up. I came back from SnF this year with
> an
> additional data point - 3.0 hours engine start to stop. 27 gals when
> refueled. That left 11 gals total, or 5.5 gals in each tank. How
> much is
> that at the bottom?
> I'm worried about getting to the destination in choppy wx and the
> ball is
> off centered. How low can I affort to go before the pickup tube is
> exposed
> to air off and on? I'd hate to think of having only 30 minutes of
> reserve,
> or roughly 5 gals total - 2.5 gals in each tank.
> Appreciate all comments....
> Anh
> -6
> N985VU
> Maryland
Before I flew 7GS, I leveled the airplane and filled one tank full. It
took 19.1 gallons. I disconnected the hose from the carb and pumped
all but 0.5 gallons out. I have inverted fuel pickups in both tanks.
The fuel pumped out was placed in the empty tank and the process
repeated with same results.
I have flown the aircraft 4 hours and when I filled up, calculated that
the remaining fuel would have take me 47 minutes longer.
I switch tanks every 30 minutes. If I were to run more endurance
tests, I would run one tank dry while still having 5 gallons (or more)
in one tank. Unfortunately I have run both tank down to a point that I
only had 5.5 gallons total on board.
5 gallons in one of my tanks looks like there is no fuel in the tank
when viewed from the filler cap.
I use the MicroMonitor to watch fuel. I am running 3% accuracy. It is
programmed that I only have 36 gallons and it gives me a low fuel alarm
at 5 gallons remaining. The 5 gallons remaining alarm is actually 6
gallons usable. When the alarm goes off, I switch to the lowest tank
till I get 5 miles from the airport. I then switch to the fullest tank
and land.
I tend to not do touch and goes with less than 1/2 fuel. I have done
65 KIAS full power climbs with 10 gallons on board (5 each side) but
was chicken to go any lower. There was no problem with the steep (30
degrees nose up angle of attack @ 65 KIAS) and fuel flow. Engine ran
fine.
Hope this helps.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
788+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Good Day At Work |
Had a good day at work, thought I'd share. Issues relating to my job have
recently had me hanging out at a hanger with some pro's. Today I was
watching a mechanic install brake lines in a C-185 that we are converting to
amphibious floats. I asked a few questions and he gave me a lesson on flairs
and AN fittings. This is one of the areas that first time builders like my
self can be fairly daunted about. How can we be sure our fuel lines aren't
going to leak? Well this guy put my fears to rest. If you do it right it
won't leak. He uses his machine countersinks in a hand tool with a crank on
the side. He starts by giving the inside of the tubing a very light buzz. He
then polishes the end with red scotchbrite.He kept saying how important it
is for all the edges of the tube to be smooth. His flaring tool appears to
be identical to the one I bought at Avery. Both the tube end and the flair
maker get some grease. He said this is also important. I can see why.
A little while later I was outside and looked up to see a RV6A enter mid
field for downwind 06. The pilot/builder turned out to be a guy I have run
into twice before. I gawked at his plane for awhile then he offered me a
ride. Wow. First ride. First time in a flying RV. I've been building my 6A
for five and a half years , 2200 hours but had never been for a ride.
First impressions, sure don't need much land to take off but ya need a alot
more to land. Gains altitude fast. Moves along well. Controls feel
incredibly light. It's small inside. Visibility is great in the slider. One
of my main reasons for opting the tip up was visibility. I thought the roll
bar and brace would be obstructions but they are not. If I were doing it
again I would go slider. I don't think much of the map on the GX55. It is a
great unit for performance and data but the map display is dated.
Later, back in the shop I got a reinforcement to my phobia of fitting my
canopy. I've had the frame built for about six months but I haven't fit the
bubble. I watched three guys install a new windshield in a different C-185.
It seemed awkward to fit into it's slots. The youngest tapped it with the
palm of his hand to force it and POP, it had a crack a foot long. Just like
that, start again.
Anyhow, interesting day at work.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Fairing |
> What is the minimum number of
> > holddown screws I can get away with? Also which ones are the most
> > critical?
Has any body tried using double sided structural tape and no screws?
Doesn't 3M make a tape that is rated for skin repairs?
Has anybody glued theirs on?
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Fairing |
Dale,
Yes, I used Van's fairing and I didn't even have to cut it apart. However,
I did do A LOT of underfilling and sanding. I have been working on it on
and off for a couple of months.
-Glenn
----- Original Message -----
From: <DWENSING(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 9:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tail Fairing
>
> In a message dated 4/25/01 6:34:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net writes:
>
> << I have my tail fairing fitting beautifully! :-) >>
> Good work Glenn. Did you use Van's fairing?
> Dale Ensing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Fairing |
>
>
> > What is the minimum number of
> > > holddown screws I can get away with? Also which ones are the most
> > > critical?
>
> Has any body tried using double sided structural tape and no screws?
> Doesn't 3M make a tape that is rated for skin repairs?
> Has anybody glued theirs on?
>
Personally, I consider the tail fairing an inspection plate. It is real
nice to get in here at inspections to look at tail attach bolts and
structure and, in my case, access to the elevator trim connect wiring. It
also helps give access to the elevator control attachment. Wouldn't want it
permantly attached.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sterling U-1201 |
Joel
I've been using the Sterling U-1201/1202 Mil Spec primer. I use a Harbor
Freight HVLP gun to spray it. It is easy to spray & tough as nails (as are
most Mil Spec epoxy primers). One other lister who used another "yellow" Mil
Spec primer told me that he found that the Sterling stayed in suspension
(didn't separate after mixing) much better than the primer he had used
originally.
When applied "wet" (heavy) it will dry to a gloss finish. At the Mil Spec
coating thickness (1 mil) it is translucent & semi gloss. Most Mil Spec
primers do not provide a moisture barrier at 1 mil. When Sterling U-1201/1202
is applied at 2.5 mils, it will dry glossy and be thick enough to provide a
moisture barrier. This can be advantageous to the inside areas of the
empennage and wings if you live in a high corrosion area. These areas are
difficult or impossible to make corrosion repairs without removing lots of
rivets later. The down side to heavier coatings are extra weight and reduced
elasticity of the primer.
U-1201/1202 is difficult to mix with a standard paint stick. It has a high
solids content which will be sitting on the bottom of the gallon can. I
recommend you purchase a paint mixer (attaches to your electric drill) from
Home Depot (or similar). These devises make this task quick and easy.
You really can't go wrong by choosing any of the non water miscible Mil Spec
epoxy primers, no matter what brand. They are all great products.
Charlie Kuss
>
> Listers:
>
> Long time lurker is now a builder!
>
> I received my 7 emp kit (#30) recently and have launched into the HS. I
> fall into the conservative group and want to use a mil spec epoxy primer.
> I would appreciate any listers' comments on Sterling's U-1201 strontium
> chromate epoxy primer. Likes, dislikes, ease of use, etc.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <john.bright(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Remaining |
I wonder about a second pickup higher in the tank like motorcycles and old
VW Beetles.
John Bright
RV6A wings
Newport News, VA
john.bright(at)bigfoot.com
757-886-1161
>
> In a message dated 4/26/01 12:03:29 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net writes:
>
>
> > I'm worried about getting to the destination in choppy wx and the ball
is
> > off centered. How low can I affort to go before the pickup tube is
exposed
> > to air off and on
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: tank gasket sealer |
Thomas McIntyre and Others:
> There are really two issues to consider when installing gaskets and what
> sealer to use. Do you use cork or paper for your gasket? And should you
> use a hardening (pro seal) or non hardening ( fuel lube etc.) sealer.
> Fwiw I used 1/8" paper and Permatex non hardening gasket sealer on my
> tanks and after 7 years and 1400+ hours I have yet too have a leak.
> Should you ever have to "go in" you will have to chip out the pro seal
> but the non hardening permatex will clean a lot easier.
Great post!! Vans recent data (RV-9A Wings instrutions on page 7-9) states;
"Clean the screws with solvent and dab sealant on the threads. Many
builders seal the gasket to the tank with sealant as well, viewing the cork
ring as sacrificial if the cover is removed. Similarily, install the fitted
tank sender and gasket with sealant on all the screws."
Based on this I was planning to either use Proseal or use nothing on the
cork and follow other instructions exactly. I can only waffle for another
two days. Now I have the Fulelube option, as well. ARGGH! The fulelube
approach seems the best - - but a pretty important decision. If I can't
decide then I'll use Proseal for peace of mind.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Garrett" <rlgarrett7(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Mounting terminal block on RV-6A slider |
April 20, 2001 - April 26, 2001
RV-Archive.digest.vol-kp