RV-Archive.digest.vol-kq
April 26, 2001 - May 02, 2001
I have Van's wiring harness kit. Unfortunately (for me) the plans show
the location of the terminal block (WH-801) for the tilt up canopy. On
the slider, the instrument subpanel is different, so that location won't
work ... it would overlap the joint where the two halves of the subpanel
are joined.
I could pick a somewhat arbitrary location of the terminal block, but
with my luck, that would guarantee that the pre-fab wires in the wiring
harness would be too short. Has someone else already figured out a good
location for the terminal block, so that the wires in the wiring harness
still reach?
Thanks,
Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Garrett" <rlgarrett7(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Mounting terminal block on RV-6A slider |
I have Van's wiring harness kit. Unfortunately (for me) the plans show
the location of the terminal block (WH-801) for the tilt up canopy. On
the slider, the instrument subpanel is different, so that location won't
work ... it would overlap the joint where the two halves of the subpanel
are joined.
I could pick a somewhat arbitrary location of the terminal block, but
with my luck, that would guarantee that the pre-fab wires in the wiring
harness would be too short. Has someone else already figured out a good
location for the terminal block, so that the wires in the wiring harness
still reach?
Thanks,
Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Remaining |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 4/25/01 22:54, Gary A. Sobek at rv6flier(at)yahoo.com wrote:
>
> --- wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net wrote:
>>
>> Listers,
>> How much is 5.5 gals left in the tank?
>> I've always felt reserved after about 2.5 hours of flying with my
>> O-320/160.
>> 9.5gal/hr. I always feel silly when refueling because both tanks
>> would only
>> take 20 gals or so to fill up. I came back from SnF this year with
>> an
>> additional data point - 3.0 hours engine start to stop. 27 gals when
>> refueled. That left 11 gals total, or 5.5 gals in each tank. How
>> much is
>> that at the bottom?
>> I'm worried about getting to the destination in choppy wx and the
>> ball is
>> off centered. How low can I affort to go before the pickup tube is
>> exposed
>> to air off and on? I'd hate to think of having only 30 minutes of
>> reserve,
>> or roughly 5 gals total - 2.5 gals in each tank.
>> Appreciate all comments....
>> Anh
>> -6
>> N985VU
>> Maryland
>
> Before I flew 7GS, I leveled the airplane and filled one tank full. It
> took 19.1 gallons. I disconnected the hose from the carb and pumped
> all but 0.5 gallons out. I have inverted fuel pickups in both tanks.
> The fuel pumped out was placed in the empty tank and the process
> repeated with same results.
>
> I have flown the aircraft 4 hours and when I filled up, calculated that
> the remaining fuel would have take me 47 minutes longer.
>
> I switch tanks every 30 minutes. If I were to run more endurance
> tests, I would run one tank dry while still having 5 gallons (or more)
> in one tank. Unfortunately I have run both tank down to a point that I
> only had 5.5 gallons total on board.
>
> 5 gallons in one of my tanks looks like there is no fuel in the tank
> when viewed from the filler cap.
>
> I use the MicroMonitor to watch fuel. I am running 3% accuracy. It is
> programmed that I only have 36 gallons and it gives me a low fuel alarm
> at 5 gallons remaining. The 5 gallons remaining alarm is actually 6
> gallons usable. When the alarm goes off, I switch to the lowest tank
> till I get 5 miles from the airport. I then switch to the fullest tank
> and land.
>
> I tend to not do touch and goes with less than 1/2 fuel. I have done
> 65 KIAS full power climbs with 10 gallons on board (5 each side) but
> was chicken to go any lower. There was no problem with the steep (30
> degrees nose up angle of attack @ 65 KIAS) and fuel flow. Engine ran
> fine.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
>
> ====
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> 788+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Dear Anh,
I feel your pain. As a retired (and unemployed) air force pilot who spent
all his flying career managing and worrying over fuel considerations, I had
trouble grappling with the RV situation.
My opinion is that van has the best fuel system I have had teh privelege to
fly with. . You have two completely independant sources of fuel, with two
pumps going for you, either of which will do the job from either tank. Even
with one tank dry, you are still as well off as folks with a header tank, or
most other systems! The electric pump is located low so it is gravity
primed by either tank. Only two controls, a manual switch and a boost pump.
A really great system. Not to mention you have four hours of fuel on board
which is well beyond the bladder duration of most of the old coots using
these planes. SO, you have brought forth a great question: How best to
test and use it??
I like Gary's suggestions and think they should be of great value to all.
Two things I would offer in addition:
First. I do not change tanks every half hour. Most of my flying is solo
and I start by feeding the left tank, which helps balance the load in my 6A.
I use the left tank until it gets to 3.5 gallons, which is about where the
needle hits 1/4 on the Vans cheap gage. (Which I love). Then I switch to
the right tank. When it gets between half and quarter it is time to refuel.
This practice has given me a lot more confidence that the gage is
predictable and that I will recognize my fuel state. Still I use all the
techniques Gary mentioned to cross check. It is just a matter of preference
and choice of having to trim more or less. Even if you like to switch a
lot, I think you could benefit by burning down to this low value enough
times to be confident in your gages, and other fuel tending methods. Which
leads to the other point.
Second. I highly recommend one more test of the system. It took me six
months to work up my courage enough to do it, but everyone should do it!!
I found a great little airport not too far away that is seldom used but has
plenty of runway and no controlled airspace. I flew over to it and orbited
at 5,000 feet over the field and ran one tank dry. (the other was near full
and had been checked just minutes before.) I then returned to base and
carefully filled the tank to note useable fuel for that tank. As a bonus I
found out how to restart after running a tank dry.
One last thng. As Gary pointed out. the best way to get maximum range if
you have to have it, would be to run one tank dry. The next time I ran this
test, I found you can do this safely and neatly by monitoriing the fuel
pressure gage, as the tank nears empty. When it starts a frenetic jittering
dance, turn on the boost pump and switch tanks, and the engine will not even
sputter.
Having said all that I still don't like to fly around with only one source
of fuel available ( I have in line filters). So I never do this (run a tank
dry). But if I got caught where I knew I would be flyign for four hours
with no other alternatives, I would run a tank dry, with confidence since I
know how, now.
FWIW, in my 6A with 180 HP, my longest flight was 3+52 minutes and I put in
33.5 gallons at the pump. It was shortly after that when I did the test
mentioned above. In other words teh thought that occured to me at the gas
pump was: "Gee it sure would be a lot better to have all your fuel in one
tank when you get down to 5 gallons!" You see the problem is, even with 3%
accuracy, you still ain't sure where which tank has what at five gallons and
you fear the possibility of doing the switch trick on base to final with a
quiet sound in front and not enough airspeed to get a restart. Ouch.
I hope this helps
Denis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Field <jfield(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump question (RV-4) |
I had the same concern and wound up using a 90deg hose fitting on the 90deg
fuel pump fitting.
John Field RV-4 Engine
>
>My engine mount interferes with the hose that runs from the engine driven
>fuel pump output to the carburetor. It fits but the hose is pretty snug up
>against the engine mount. Any other 4 builders/flyers have this problem?
>What did you do to correct it? The fitting on the fuel pump that the hose
>attaches to is a 90 deg fitting. I was thinking of replacing it with a 45
>deg fitting. Good idea or not?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: tank gasket sealer |
In a message dated 4/26/01 6:59:00 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca writes:
> Great post!! Vans recent data (RV-9A Wings instrutions on page 7-9) states;
> "Clean the screws with solvent and dab sealant on the threads. Many
> builders seal the gasket to the tank with sealant as well, viewing the cork
> ring as sacrificial if the cover is removed. Similarily, install the
fitted
> tank sender and gasket with sealant on all the screws."
> Based on this I was planning to either use Proseal or use nothing on the
> cork and follow other instructions exactly. I can only waffle for another
> two days. Now I have the Fulelube option, as well. ARGGH! The fulelube
> approach seems the best - - but a pretty important decision. If I can't
> decide then I'll use Proseal for peace of mind.
>
Earnest, I tried using the cork gaskets and they would not hold air. I then
made gaskets out of a thick automotive gasket paper and they still would not
hold air. I then took off the paper gaskets, soaked them in fuel lube for 24
hours and put them back on. That was last summer and the balloons I used to
air test still have positive pressure in them.
Kevin in WA -9A finshing stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Lundin <rlundin46(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | wing & tail fairings |
I recently went to look at an RV6 that had excellent
wing and tail fairings. These were custom done. I am
considering making a mold and producing them. Please
give me feedback on whether you would be interested
and at what costs. Tail fairing= wing fairingsThanks,
Rick
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jimandkathy" <jimandkathy(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: dumb question # 44499776 |
Try Sam James, he provides a nice alternative.
Jim Stone
SDF
----- Original Message -----
From: old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 9:57 PM
Subject: RV8-List: dumb question # 44499776
> --> RV8-List message posted by: old ogre
>
> has anyone decided to replace the van's supplied cowl with a different
> cowl?...I sure would like to change mine, but havn't heard of anyone
> around the portland-salem washington aerea doing it...any
> comments?...thanks...jolly
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MD-42 BS rivets |
In a message dated 4/24/01 9:52:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bicyclop(at)pacbell.net writes:
<< The plans call for MD-42 BS pop rivets to hold the ends of the elevator
pushrods into the aluminum tube. I can't find enough of those in my kit to
do the job but I have a whole bunch of MSP -42's. >>
MSP-42s have replaced the MD-42 BS.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | House of Kolor question |
PLEASE do not flame me for asking a (stupid?) question, put I could not find
a clear answer in the archives. I have fallen in love with some colors made
by House of Kolor, used on show cars and custom motorcycles. Will these
urethane & polyurethane paints be tough enough for an RV airplane?
Thank you.
Kim Nicholas
RV9 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jordan_mel(at)ti.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: Wanted Garmin 195 |
12:35:44 PM
Do any of you happen to have a Garmin 195 that you would like to sell? If
so, please contact me off list.
Thanks,
Mel Jordan
Tucson, AZ
Phone 520 575 0738
n6jx(at)earthlink.net
Do Not Archieve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: House of Kolor question |
Kim, at Sun N Fun a couple of weeks ago, one of the seminars that I
dropped into on a "lark", was the painting seminar. It was hosted by
the owner of Poly Fiber. He was a powerful and gifted speaker. Amongst
other things, he said (and Van says the same thing): choose a
manufacturer's system and use their whole system...from the primer on
up. Follow their directions . Don't mix and match. He also said that
polyurethanes are the only way to go.
So I guess the real question is...are House of Color products good to
use on airplanes? They are very big in custom cars and motorcycles.
You'd have to get an opinion from an airplane guy that used their stuff.
Barry Pote RV9a Wings
Knicholas2(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> PLEASE do not flame me for asking a (stupid?) question, put I could not find
> a clear answer in the archives. I have fallen in love with some colors made
> by House of Kolor, used on show cars and custom motorcycles. Will these
> urethane & polyurethane paints be tough enough for an RV airplane?
>
> Thank you.
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9 wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Hiers" <craig-rv4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Fantasy of flight RV flyin |
Ok all you listers, here's an opportunity to fly into Fantasy of
Flight, you know the place we all wished we owned.
Sam James, Fiberglass guru and all around good guy some how
got the Florida RV builders an invatation to have an RV flyin at
Fantasy of Flight. As most of you know it is closed to all traffic
unless prior arrangments have been made.
The details were worked out by Laura Crook (yes, Tracy's wife)
and are as follows.
If you have any questions please contact me or Laura.
Remember, you must RSVP, and if you are still building and want
to rent a spammer to fly thats ok too.
craig-rv4(at)worldnet.att.net
laura_crook(at)hotmail.com
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee,FL.
> We have finalized the plans for the RV Flyout to Fantasy of Flight on May
> 26, 2001 (Saturday of Memorial Day weekend) at 10:00 am. Group members
who
> arenot currently flying an RV and want to rent a plane to fly in, or who
> want to drive in are welcome but PLEASE give me an RSVP.
>
> Admission to the facility will be $24.95 each ($22.95 if you want to admit
> to being over 60 years old..); $13.95 for kids. Tour guides will be
> provided for our group. A buffet lunch will be served for $7.10 per
person.
>
> I have provided a $100 deposit to hold the date for us, and they require a
> minimum of 10 planes to open the private strip to us, so lets work towards
a
> good turn out (don't want to loose my $100..). If you plan to attend and
> have not provided an RSVP yet, PLEASE SEND ME AN RSVP (or call me at
> 904/935-2973) by May 19th (I need a count for lunch)
>
> Here are the details of the arrival procedure:
> NO FLY BYS
> Fantasy of flights runways are TURF and are 5000 and 2600 feet long and
kept
> in top condition. No fuel or maintenance is available. This is a private
> airstrip and you must be part of our group (RSVP to me) in order to fly
in.
>
> Coordinates: N 28 10' W 81 48.5' Elevation: 139 ' msl
> Radio 122.75
> FULL LENGTH OF RUNAY 31/13 CLOSED FOR TAKE OFF AND LANDINGS.
>
> Arrivals: Runway 4: Right hand pattern. This is the PREFERRED RUNWAY to
> eliminate back taxi down the runway to parking.
> Runway 22: Left hand pattern. Back taxi to intersection; turn RIGHT to
> parking
>
> Departures: The preferred runway will be 22. If runway 4 is used,
aircraft
> will back taxi in groups of 5.
>
> Parking: Guest aircraft parking is on the southeast end of the CLOSED
> runway 13/31.
>
> Runways remain hard after heavy rain, however, braking is poor and it will
> spray your airplane with mud. Call ahead for conditions if desired.
>
> Lighted tower mile west of the runway 4 threshold.
>
> Vehicle parked in the intersection of the runways indicates the airport is
> CLOSED to arrivals and departures.
>
> Avoid flying over the houses along the lakeshore and the trailer park
> adjacent.
> Questions or concerns: Jack McCloy 863-984-3500 ext 226
> Cell phone 863-287-5328
> Email jsm180(at)webcombo.net
________________________________________________________________________________
I am getting ready to build an RV-7. I was planning on using zinc chromate
for corrosion proofing. Are there any opinions on whether this is the right
thing to use or is there something better? Thanks, Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: House of Kolor question |
In a message dated 4/26/01 11:59:52 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Knicholas2(at)aol.com writes:
> PLEASE do not flame me for asking a (stupid?) question, put I could not
> find
> a clear answer in the archives. I have fallen in love with some colors
> made
> by House of Kolor, used on show cars and custom motorcycles. Will these
> urethane & polyurethane paints be tough enough for an RV airplane?
>
> Thank you.
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9 wings
>
>
>
If you live in California your pretty much screwed when it comes to urethane
paints. Painting your plane is expensive and hard work. Polyurethane (single
stage) paints are about one of the best paints to use on your plane. Most any
auto paint store can mix any color of any paint in any quantity, use the good
stuff because you will not want to do it twice.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: House of Kolor question |
I forgot one thing. The guy from Poly Fiber said that Urethanes can kill
you. Normal cartridge type breathers are not enough. He recommends Hobby
Air System.
Barry Pote
MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 4/26/01 11:59:52 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> Knicholas2(at)aol.com writes:
>
> > PLEASE do not flame me for asking a (stupid?) question, put I could not
> > find
> > a clear answer in the archives. I have fallen in love with some colors
> > made
> > by House of Kolor, used on show cars and custom motorcycles. Will these
> > urethane & polyurethane paints be tough enough for an RV airplane?
> >
> > Thank you.
> >
> > Kim Nicholas
> > RV9 wings
> >
> >
> >
>
> If you live in California your pretty much screwed when it comes to urethane
> paints. Painting your plane is expensive and hard work. Polyurethane (single
> stage) paints are about one of the best paints to use on your plane. Most any
> auto paint store can mix any color of any paint in any quantity, use the good
> stuff because you will not want to do it twice.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: House of Kolor question |
In a message dated 4/26/01 1:30:17 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
barrypote(at)home.com writes:
>
> I forgot one thing. The guy from Poly Fiber said that Urethanes can kill
> you. Normal cartridge type breathers are not enough. He recommends Hobby
> Air System.
> Barry Pote
>
>
I live in California and who ever it is (paint police) that regulates the
type of paints used has made it illegal to buy the good stuff. I used Corlar
Epoxy primer / Imron 5000 and was please with the product. I most definitely
would not want to spray this stuff for a living. I agree that gloves, apparel
and proper breathing apparatus's are a must.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVilla <jodyvilla(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ADC filter & chip detection and prop governors |
Thanks Richard,
I put in my order today for the ADC.
Anyone want to purchase an Airwolf remote filter kit for an IO360?
Jody Villa
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "JVilla" <jodyvilla(at)worldnet.att.net>
>To:
>Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 3:42 PM
>Subject: RV-List: ADC filter & chip detection and prop governors
>
>Jody:
>
>I have 200 hours on the ADC oil filter system in a 4 with an O-320. I have
>had no problems and like it for all the reasons you listed. Just as they
>predicted the "bypass" light came on twice in the first 20 hours on the
>engine. The filter had picked up a small amount of lint/gasket material
>etc.
>The bypass light will also come on for a few minutes after a cold (20F or
>so) start. It goes out as the oil temp starts to rise. Filter screen
>cleaning is easy but one does have to exercise care in re-assemble of the
>components, the screen is not bi-directional. I also believe their claims
>that the filter lowers oil temps 10 degrees or so. With the cooler on the
>rear baffle behind #4 cyl I have it 90% closed by a plate on the exit side
>in all but the hottest weather. This was necessary to get the oil up to
>180. Along with the cost it is also heavier than a stock system, about 6
>lbs if I recall correctly. The additional hoses and connections represent
>added potential failure points; but I think the early oil contamination
>warning is worth the down side factors.
>
>Dick Sipp
>RV-4 200 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | House of Kolor question |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: House of Kolor question
Thread-Index: AcDOi4qe1jCc/e2JSq+iUkpKWsYxngABBA6A
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Kim,
You will find the House of Kolor stuff is REALLY expensive stuff ($400
for a pint of some of their metallics; for the matter, Dupont
Chromalusion is similarly priced, it's the stuff that changes color
depending on the angle you're looking at it from). I asked my
auto-painter friend who guided me during the painting process about it
when I was painting... He uses many of their funky metallics in
painting custom cars (base-coat-clear-coat) for stripes and airbrushing
but will use it with a less-expensive base-coat and clear coat, like
Dupont Chroma-One (chroma-base? I can't remember). Their metallic
flakes come in small clear jars (I think they cost around $100 per jar)
and can be added to other-brand paints to really give some neat effects,
but I couldn't use them since I used Dupont Centauri (single stage) to
paint my bird.
One of my do-overs on my next project will be to use a
base-coat-clear-coat system. Clear coats really bring out the shine,
plus they're a bit softer which allows for buffing. I would think since
almost all auto manufactures use base-coat-clear-coat systems they
should be as durable as the polyurethanes (Imron, JetGlo, etc.) Maybe
others who used clear-coats can comment on durability.
Lately I've heard that Sikkens is very good paint to use. It was a
topic of conversation at SNF with a friend of mine and he said you can
take a can of Sikkens clear coat and look in the can and it's clear,
unlike other clear-coats that have a yellow tint to them. This was
coming from a guy who used SW Sunfire paint on his RV-8.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
F1 tail kit on order
-----Original Message-----
From: Knicholas2(at)aol.com [mailto:Knicholas2(at)aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2001 1:56 PM
Subject: RV-List: House of Kolor question
PLEASE do not flame me for asking a (stupid?) question, put I could not
find
a clear answer in the archives. I have fallen in love with some colors
made
by House of Kolor, used on show cars and custom motorcycles. Will
these
urethane & polyurethane paints be tough enough for an RV airplane?
Thank you.
Kim Nicholas
RV9 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Schilling" <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: Wanted Garmin 195 |
There are a couple on the E-bay aviation page.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
jordan_mel(at)ti.com
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2001 7:37 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: Wanted Garmin 195
Do any of you happen to have a Garmin 195 that you would like to sell? If
so, please contact me off list.
Thanks,
Mel Jordan
Tucson, AZ
Phone 520 575 0738
n6jx(at)earthlink.net
Do Not Archieve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: House of Kolor question |
I am sorry to not have done this in just one message, but......
ref Sun N Fun painting seminar:
Other things he said.
There are no 1 part poly Urethanes. The good stuff is 2 parts.
Don't use clear coat on polyurethanes. It is not needed with correct
technique. They chalk and grey faster.
Don't use acyrlics on planes. They are too brittle (not flexible).
Barry Pote
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
I sent an email off to Larry Vetterman but I thought I would tap into the
collective wisdom of the list as well. I need to install a heat muff on my
Vetterman 4-pipe exhaust system. I was wondering if anyone had any
suggestions. Would the universal heat muff sold by Van's fit the 4-pipe
exhaust? Is there another muff more suited to this?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
Mark & listers,
The Galls model GR120 only produces 20 watts (16 2/3 Joules). It will only
support two strobes. Is this the unit you are referring to Keith? If not,
what is the model you are referring to?
Whelan's model U-GR083 has also been mentioned lately ($100 new) It produces
45 watts (37.5 Joules) These units aren't even close to being in the same
catagory as the Nova X-Pac 904 or the Whelen HDA-CF It's an apples to
oranges comparison. My hat is off to Mark for finding a unit which compares
to the aviation Whelen HDA-CF for less money!!!!
One question for you Mark. How can we contact Strobes N' More? Do they have
a web site? Email? Phone??
Charlie Kuss
> Keith,
>
> I looked at Galls in my search for high-watt power supplies and didn't
> find anything equivalent to Whelen's HDA-CF system....Whelen does make a
> number of power supplies that have lower power ratings though. I'd be
> surprised if Galls has a system for $89 that does what my 90 Watt NOVA
> system does but if so please let me know what it is.
>
> One comment I would make is that if the Galls system is in a plastic box,
> it will probably create a lot of noise in your comm radio. The NOVA
> system (like Whelen) is enclosed completely in metal and according to the
> installation instructions, if you ground the case to the airframe (or
> "Chassis ground") you should not have any noise.
>
> Regards,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"
>
>
> >If it's not too late...
> >
> >From Galls, inc. www.galls.com or 1-800-477-7766. Galls supplies
> >equipment to police and fire departments. They sell a Whelin strobe
> >power supply that is the same as the aircraft version except that it's
> >in a plastic box as opposed to a metal one and it sells for $89. Same
> >inside, just doesn't say "Aircraft" on it. If you are interested I'll
> >post the part number.
> >
> >Keith Hughes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
Kim,
Our company has been painting everything from race cars to dental office
equipment for 30 years. As a few of the other folks have said Urethanes
should be handled (and sprayed) for what they are, Hazardous Materials.
They contain Isocyanates and other things that make you, and the
enviroment sick if misused.
To answer your intial question...I personally would not use H Of K
products for several reasons. First is the price. Production urethanes
are expensive enough let alone small batch producers like H of K.
Number two, The level of UV inhibitors may not bee as high in the "show
colors" as is in the O.E.M. type paint. Third, all the pretty pearls,
flip/flops, and candies are mainly added components to the primary
mixing formula or is introduced to the color coat and or clear during
coats. So far we have never had a color or texture we couldn't match
through Dupont or PPG. All the additives such as pearl and flake is
also availible through them.
There are several newer brands on the market now. One of them is called
Omni. It is a one stage poly-urethane. It's real nice stuff to work
with and the cost is comparible to acrylic enamel. We've done several
street rods in it and to date (about 3 years) these daily drivers have
held up even with the road gunk of winter. Talk with your local auto
paint supply house rep. They should be able to answer most if not all
your questions.
Jim Duckett
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
Mark,
I didn't read all of your posts carefully enough. After re reading them, I see
your mention of a link off of Nova's site. You can reach Strobes N' More
directly at:
http://strobeguy.safeshopper.com/index.htm?116
For a few dollars more than the 4 head X-Pac 904 ($159.95) you mention (see web
page below)
http://strobeguy.safeshopper.com/11/cat11.htm?116
you can purchase the Super Pac 906 ($168.95) 6 head power supply. (see web page
below)
http://strobeguy.safeshopper.com/10/cat10.htm?116
Since you can then power 3 heads off of this 6 head supply, all 3 strobes can
receive equal power from the supply. (3 X 30 watts [25 joules] per sequence)
You won't have to diminish the power going to the 2 wingtip strobes as the X-Pac
904 does (22.5 + 22.5 + 45 watts [18.75 + 18.75 + 37.5 joules per sequence)
This would seem to be a better unit for those folks who need a 3 strobe system.
Charlie Kuss
Charlie Kuss wrote:
> Mark & listers,
> The Galls model GR120 only produces 20 watts (16 2/3 Joules). It will only
> support two strobes. Is this the unit you are referring to Keith? If not,
> what is the model you are referring to?
> Whelan's model U-GR083 has also been mentioned lately ($100 new) It produces
> 45 watts (37.5 Joules) These units aren't even close to being in the same
> catagory as the Nova X-Pac 904 or the Whelen HDA-CF It's an apples to
> oranges comparison. My hat is off to Mark for finding a unit which compares
> to the aviation Whelen HDA-CF for less money!!!!
> One question for you Mark. How can we contact Strobes N' More? Do they have
> a web site? Email? Phone??
> Charlie Kuss
>
> > Keith,
> >
> > I looked at Galls in my search for high-watt power supplies and didn't
> > find anything equivalent to Whelen's HDA-CF system....Whelen does make a
> > number of power supplies that have lower power ratings though. I'd be
> > surprised if Galls has a system for $89 that does what my 90 Watt NOVA
> > system does but if so please let me know what it is.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 4/26/01 3:45:12 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
"versadek"@earthlink.net writes:
> Scott,
> Call Rick Robins, (303-422-9389) he is the Heat Muff Guru, Larry Vetterman
> Gave me
> this tip, when I asked whether to use Van's muffs or what? Rick is great to
> work
> with. He helped me set up the inlet and outlet on a pair of them configured
> to run
> in series, one on each side with a 2" sceet cross-over behind the carb, to
> get max
> heat.
>
I bought one of Rick Robbins Heat Muff and will say there is no better muff
made, he puts out real good stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: House of Kolor question |
In a message dated 4/26/01 2:03:26 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com writes:
>
> Kim,
>
> You will find the House of Kolor stuff is REALLY expensive stuff ($400
> for a pint of some of their metallics; for the matter, Dupont
> Chromalusion is similarly priced, it's the stuff that changes color
> depending on the angle you're looking at it from). I asked my
> auto-painter friend who guided me during the painting process about it
> when I was painting... He uses many of their funky metallics in
> painting custom cars (base-coat-clear-coat) for stripes and airbrushing
> but will use it with a less-expensive base-coat and clear coat, like
> Dupont Chroma-One (chroma-base? I can't remember). Their metallic
> flakes come in small clear jars (I think they cost around $100 per jar)
> and can be added to other-brand paints to really give some neat effects,
> but I couldn't use them since I used Dupont Centauri (single stage) to
> paint my bird.
>
> One of my do-overs on my next project will be to use a
> base-coat-clear-coat system. Clear coats really bring out the shine,
> plus they're a bit softer which allows for buffing. I would think since
> almost all auto manufactures use base-coat-clear-coat systems they
> should be as durable as the polyurethanes (Imron, JetGlo, etc.) Maybe
> others who used clear-coats can comment on durability.
>
> Lately I've heard that Sikkens is very good paint to use. It was a
> topic of conversation at SNF with a friend of mine and he said you can
> take a can of Sikkens clear coat and look in the can and it's clear,
> unlike other clear-coats that have a yellow tint to them. This was
> coming from a guy who used SW Sunfire paint on his RV-8.
>
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
>
The only problem wit base coat clear coat is if you ever have damage like a
bird or a rock strike you have to repaint the whole area (no spot painting)
as to where on single stage you can spot repair and then buff out the area.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV6 fuselage Jig -Free |
| From: | "Ted" <blunist(at)flash.net> |
I have a beautiful RV6 fuselage Jig that I will give to the first builder
who picks it up.
Ted Gauthier
Pontiac, Michigan
1-248-249-1780 Cell daytime
1-248-681-8184 home
blunist(at)flash.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
Scott,
I am using Larry's four-n2-two exhaust with his heat muff. The quality of
the muff equals his exhaust. The "out" tube is restricted to build back
pressure for better heating. I am not flying yet, but do have it installed.
Here are the dimensions: length = 8 inches diameter = 3 inches. It is
mounted just below a slip joint and you need a straight section long enough
to fit the 8" length. The part of the muff nearest the engine sets off the
exhaust about 3/4". I have about 1" clearance between the engine and the
muff at this time. I also have 2 stainless steel pan scrubbing pads stuffed
in the muff to help with increasing heat.
Hopes this helps.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage/finish kit
----- Original Message -----
From: Van Artsdalen, Scott <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2001 4:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: Heat muff
>
> I sent an email off to Larry Vetterman but I thought I would tap into the
> collective wisdom of the list as well. I need to install a heat muff on
my
> Vetterman 4-pipe exhaust system. I was wondering if anyone had any
> suggestions. Would the universal heat muff sold by Van's fit the 4-pipe
> exhaust? Is there another muff more suited to this?
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | windsaloft(at)rmisp.com (Terri Watson) |
| Subject: | scoring the angle aluminum - HS-610 |
When cutting out the AA6 3/4 x 3/4 angle iron to fabricate the HS-610 for
the front spar, I let the saw blade drift a bit and got a bit of a score
across the flange tongue of the aluminum. It is 1-5/16" from the tip, and
appears to be 1/64" deep, going all the way across. Two rivets would be
outside this when fastened to the forward spar.
There are a couple of other nicks and scores, mostly scotchbrite-able, from
clamps, etc.
I am learning lots on this educational project, and am pretty certain that I
should get another aluminum angle and start again as the score above seems
like it would focus stress and be the ideal fracture spot for the spar.
But, I wanted to ask -- how deep is too deep for something like that? If
you can't smooth it out with scotch brite, is it so deep that it will
concentrate force and fracture? Is there some rule of thumb of score depth
vs. bar thickness?
While I am striving for perfection, I am also trying to learn when to sweat
it and when to not!
Thanks, feel free to reply on or off line.
Terri Watson
Lander, WY
RV-6 to 7 fwd spar, HS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated Thu, 26 Apr 2001 5:38:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Van Artsdalen,
Scott" writes:
I sent an email off to Larry Vetterman but I thought I would tap into the
collective wisdom of the list as well. I need to install a heat muff on my
Vetterman 4-pipe exhaust system. I was wondering if anyone had any
suggestions. Would the universal heat muff sold by Van's fit the 4-pipe
exhaust? Is there another muff more suited to this?>>
Scott-
Go with Rick Robbins' muffs.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
In a message dated 4/26/01 3:06:50 PM Central Daylight Time, Slgmjg1(at)cs.com
writes:
<< I am getting ready to build an RV-7. I was planning on using zinc chromate
for corrosion proofing. Are there any opinions on whether this is the right
thing to use or is there something better? Thanks, Mark >>
Mark,
This is a MUCH debated subject. To get a good idea, go into the archives and
type in "primer" as your search topic. Settle in with a nice cup of coffee
and start reading. You'll be there for a while. While you are reading the
different posts, take note of where the poster is from geographically. It
seams that opinions vary from dry climates recommending little or no primer
to those living in sea air climates recommending the full acid
etch/alodine/two part mil spec epoxy primer.
You read it all and then decide for yourself. Thats one of the best parts of
building one of these. You get a great education.
Good luck,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (panel wiring)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
Eric is correct!!! Everyone has an opinon. I tried just about every method as
many of us have. Your gonna have to decide for yourself. FYI, I ended up with
Variprime. To me the easiest and sticks best. Others will debate that, so in
order from keep all the started-takes Erics advise read the archives. Oh, the
archives may leave you still undecided. Contact me off list if you want my
loooooooooooong story of priming. Bob in Ark sealing tanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
| Subject: | Fuel Remaining (thanks) |
Thanks to all who responded! Lots of useful info.
Anh
-6
N985VU
Maryland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com> |
Scott,
I think there's information on heat muffs in the archives. If I remember
correctly, Vans universal heat muff is too long to fit on the Vetterman
cross over system. It is also my understanding that the exhaust systems
sold by Vans (supplied by Vetterman) are now shipped with the Robbins heat
muff.
John Warren
RV-6Q N645W
LaCenter, WA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2001 2:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: Heat muff
>
> I sent an email off to Larry Vetterman but I thought I would tap into the
> collective wisdom of the list as well. I need to install a heat muff on
my
> Vetterman 4-pipe exhaust system. I was wondering if anyone had any
> suggestions. Would the universal heat muff sold by Van's fit the 4-pipe
> exhaust? Is there another muff more suited to this?
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
Hi all...
Anybody out there overhaul gyros? I have a DG and AI that I need checked
out at least, and probably overhauled...
Please contact me off list: bill(at)vondane.com
And... Thanks Mike and Bill!
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
In a message dated 4/26/01 10:24:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jwdub(at)teleport.com writes:
> >
> > I sent an email off to Larry Vetterman but I thought I would tap into the
> > collective wisdom of the list as well. I need to install a heat muff on
> my
> > Vetterman 4-pipe exhaust system. I was wondering if anyone had any
> > suggestions. Would the universal heat muff sold by Van's fit the 4-pipe
> > exhaust? Is there another muff more suited to this?
> > --
I haven't been following this thread, but recommend that you call Larry
Vetterman. He knows what's available and helped me with my exhaust and heat
muff needs.
Brian Eckstein
6A getting close
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: scoring the angle aluminum - HS-610 |
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
Terri:
I damaged my HS610 and had to make another. It seemed like a painful choice
at the time, because it was the first mistake like that I'd made. But it
wasn't the last, and I'm sure there will be many more.
Without looking at the part I don't want to venture an opinion. But I will
say that if you feel at all uncomfortable about it you should probably redo
it. It's not that big a deal in the overall scheme of things, and you'll
probably feel better about it afterward.
By the way, I prevented further nicks and scratches by taping strips of beer
can material to the surfaces I wanted to protect each time I used a file or
saw blade. It worked like a charm. You can file the flange stub right down
to a few thou thick that way, and then the Scotchbrite wheel easily takes
the remainder right off.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Pseudo Fly-in (NW GA, This weekend) |
There is a Boy Scout camporee at the Rome GA airport this weekend. On
Saturday morning, the local EAA chapters are giving Young Eagle rides, with
Experimentals and other non-certified riff-raff invited as display aircraft.
(The Boy Scouts can't take rides in experimentals and ultralights as part of
an official Scout activity).
There will be food availible on the field (Pancakes, I think), and there is a
cafe' on the for lunch. The main area of activity will be on the East side
of the field, near the campground and jump base.
The activities start as 8:00 AM on Saturday if anyone wants to drop by.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
I have Vans ammeter with 40 amp shunt. Wiring is from battery to shunt to
Elec. Bobs fuse panel, with ammeter wired at shunt.
I have only installed fuses for radios, elec. turn coord., panel lights and
dimmer.
With the radios turned off and I turn the master on the ammeter goes directly
to -40.
I am going to check amps with a multimeter but am wondering what could be
causing this. I know the master solinoid draws quite a bit of current as does
the gyro but why -40. Everything else seems to work fine. (engine is not
installed)
Any hints?
John Danielson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: House of Kolor question |
house of colors....
oshkosh award winner 1999.
enuf said....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: scoring the angle aluminum - HS-610 |
>
>When cutting out the AA6 3/4 x 3/4 angle iron to fabricate the HS-610 for
>the front spar, I let the saw blade drift a bit and got a bit of a score
>across the flange tongue of the aluminum. It is 1-5/16" from the tip, and
>appears to be 1/64" deep, going all the way across. Two rivets would be
>outside this when fastened to the forward spar.
>
>There are a couple of other nicks and scores, mostly scotchbrite-able, from
>clamps, etc.
>
>I am learning lots on this educational project, and am pretty certain that I
>should get another aluminum angle and start again as the score above seems
>like it would focus stress and be the ideal fracture spot for the spar.
>But, I wanted to ask -- how deep is too deep for something like that? If
>you can't smooth it out with scotch brite, is it so deep that it will
>concentrate force and fracture? Is there some rule of thumb of score depth
>vs. bar thickness?
>
>While I am striving for perfection, I am also trying to learn when to sweat
>it and when to not!
>
>Thanks, feel free to reply on or off line.
>
>Terri Watson
>Lander, WY
>RV-6 to 7 fwd spar, HS
>
Terri,
Typical structural repair manuals (Boeing, etc) will say to use a 10
to 1 slope when dressing out scratches, to avoid having the reduced
thickness cause a significant stress concentration. For example, if
the damage is 1/64 deep, the area dressed out should extend to 5/32
(10 times 1/64) each side of the damage. Even if you solve the
stress concentration/risk of cracking problem, you would lose some
strength because of the reduced thickness in this area.
The best bet is to talk with Vans. The engineers at Vans should be be
able to say whether the part will be strong enough considering the
reduced thickness.
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (mounting wings)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: scoring the angle aluminum - HS-610 |
I had a problem with the HS-614 and ended up ordering another piece from
Van's. If I had it to do all over again, I would just order a longer piece
of the same material from Wicks, Aircraft Spruce, etc.
As far as the strength aspect of that part, why take chances? If Van's
tells you it's ok as long as you dress the scoring, how do you know if you
will be doing the repair correctly? I'd get a new part and start over.
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A Wings
>From: windsaloft(at)rmisp.com (Terri Watson)
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: scoring the angle aluminum - HS-610
>Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 18:55:07 -0600
>
>
>When cutting out the AA6 3/4 x 3/4 angle iron to fabricate the HS-610 for
>the front spar, I let the saw blade drift a bit and got a bit of a score
>across the flange tongue of the aluminum. It is 1-5/16" from the tip, and
>appears to be 1/64" deep, going all the way across. Two rivets would be
>outside this when fastened to the forward spar.
>
>There are a couple of other nicks and scores, mostly scotchbrite-able, from
>clamps, etc.
>
>I am learning lots on this educational project, and am pretty certain that
>I
>should get another aluminum angle and start again as the score above seems
>like it would focus stress and be the ideal fracture spot for the spar.
>But, I wanted to ask -- how deep is too deep for something like that? If
>you can't smooth it out with scotch brite, is it so deep that it will
>concentrate force and fracture? Is there some rule of thumb of score depth
>vs. bar thickness?
>
>While I am striving for perfection, I am also trying to learn when to sweat
>it and when to not!
>
>Thanks, feel free to reply on or off line.
>
>Terri Watson
>Lander, WY
>RV-6 to 7 fwd spar, HS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: House of Kolor question |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
04/27/2001 08:52:35 AM
barry pote (at)matronics.com on 04/26/2001 05:14:48 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: House of Kolor question
Hey Barry, some of this is pretty weird. This is not a flame, I'm not
arguing with you, just some of his statements are a little odd.
>>I am sorry to not have done this in just one message, but......
ref Sun N Fun painting seminar:
>>Other things he said.
>>There are no 1 part poly Urethanes. The good stuff is 2 parts.
One part, did he mean one stage? By one part I think of open the can and
put it on without mixing it with anything. If that's what he meant then
well no sh**. If he meant one stage he's wrong, there are both single and
double stage polyurethanes. A single stage is a paint that has the color
and the clear already mixed together. A dual stage is one that you apply
the color base, which dries very flat. Then you apply the clear over it.
Basically they are the same paints, one is just separated from the other so
you can have greater control over the paint process.
>>Don't use clear coat on polyurethanes. It is not needed with correct
technique. They chalk and grey faster.
See above, I have no idea what he's basing this on. If you put five heavy
coats of clear on and park the plane in the sun it will start to grey on
you. If you follow the manufacturers recipe this will not happen.
>>Don't use acrylics on planes. They are too brittle (not flexible).
One of the most commonly used aircraft paints is Sherwin Williams AcryGlow.
Its good stuff, as a matter of fact I'm getting ready to place an order for
some. Why Acrylic? Its a little easier to repair than poly (theoretically)
and its a little less scary than polys in the paint booth. It will still
mess you up plenty if you get a good snoot full. All these things will hurt
you if you don't take care of yourself. Its also more friendly to color
sanding the base coat before applying the clear coat. It allows you to
actually color sand your base coat and still get a chemical bond with the
clear coat after the sanding process if done within a certain time frame.
This is the recipe for a dynamite paint job.
One last thing about clears. A good reason to use a base coat clear coat is
to seal the edges of your striping. All of us have seen nice paint jobs
where the edges of paint stripes are chipping off. The wind sun and weather
works non stop on these edges trying to separate the two. With a two stage
paint process the edges are sealed from the elements, oil and dirt will
never collect in the small edge where your masking tape once was. This
makes for a more durable paint job.
Ok, really the last thing. "But using a clear adds unnecessary weight to
your plane." B.S! If done properly a single stage will come out to the same
paint depth as a dual stage paint job. You are intended to use the same
amount of clear as is put into a single stage paint at the factory. Its
apples to apples, the method of application is the only difference. In
addition to that, a clear coat is lighter and thinner than a normal coat of
paint. Why? much less solids in a clear coat. A gallon of clear if sprayed
to the point of just flowing out, will go much farther than a gallon of
base, it just goes on thinner.
I am not a paint professional, just a paint junkie. I love the stuff and
find the whole art of painting one of the most fulfilling things I have
learned. This is all just my opinion, but I'll put my money where my mouth
is since I just told you exactly how my plane will be painted.
Eric Henson
Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rpflanze(at)iquest.net |
Hey Guys,
I need some help from those of you that have sent an oil sample out to be analyzed.
I bought a couple of analysis packets at Sun-n-Fun this year, and when I got
back home, I changed my oil and sent a sample away per the instructions. This
is the first time I've ever had my oil analyzed. The engine is a Bart O-320
with 140 hours on it.
Yesterday, I got a letter from the company with a list of the trace elements
found in the oil. That's it!! So I'm thinking to myself, where is the analysis
at? Am I supposed to look at these number of about 7 elements and deduce something
from it? I could find nothing else on the sheet to tell me what the numbers
meant.
Is this what I get for my $25 or is there supposed to be more to it? I would
have thought that I would at least get one sentence that says "everything looks
normal" or "have a mechanic check out your engine" or something.
Help please.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 Indianapolis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming Crankshaft woes |
Listers,
FYI
MORE CRANKSHAFT WOES, THIS TIME IT'S LYCOMING
Reminiscent of last year's Teledyne Continental crankshaft problems,
Textron Lycoming recently released Service Bulletin (SB) 549 highlighting
a "potential metallurgical condition" on crankshafts installed in four-
cylinder 360-series engines or shipped as spare parts. The suspect
crankshafts were shipped from the Lycoming factory May 1, 1997, through
April 30, 2000, and are listed by serial number in the SB. Lycoming
requires that affected airplanes undergo nondestructive testing at
one of several Lycoming-certified facilities listed in the SB, and will
extend warranty coverage for cost of the required inspections through
October 31 of this year. Lycoming has supplied AOPA with additional
information not found in the SB, including the failure events leading up
to this SB, the nature of the defect, and testing methods. For more, see
AOPA
Online ( http://www.aopa.org/whatsnew/regulatory/reglycoming_crank.html ).
Jack
RV8, wings
DSM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: House of Kolor question |
1. He said there are no one part polyurethanes. In other words there is
one part of paint and another part (catalyst?). He said nothing about
stages. He even went so far as to say that a can of 'polyurethane' from
Home Depot, is not really polyurethane.
2. As for clear coating, I just report what he said.
He also said he did not believe in waxing polyurethanes.
He also said he would hold off on using waterbourne's till they are
perfected.
Barry Pote (just reporting what was said)
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
>
>
> barry pote (at)matronics.com on 04/26/2001 05:14:48 PM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> cc:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: House of Kolor question
>
>
> Hey Barry, some of this is pretty weird. This is not a flame, I'm not
> arguing with you, just some of his statements are a little odd.
>
> >>I am sorry to not have done this in just one message, but......
> ref Sun N Fun painting seminar:
>
> >>Other things he said.
>
> >>There are no 1 part poly Urethanes. The good stuff is 2 parts.
>
> One part, did he mean one stage? By one part I think of open the can and
> put it on without mixing it with anything. If that's what he meant then
> well no sh**. If he meant one stage he's wrong, there are both single and
> double stage polyurethanes. A single stage is a paint that has the color
> and the clear already mixed together. A dual stage is one that you apply
> the color base, which dries very flat. Then you apply the clear over it.
> Basically they are the same paints, one is just separated from the other so
> you can have greater control over the paint process.
>
> >>Don't use clear coat on polyurethanes. It is not needed with correct
> technique. They chalk and grey faster.
>
> See above, I have no idea what he's basing this on. If you put five heavy
> coats of clear on and park the plane in the sun it will start to grey on
> you. If you follow the manufacturers recipe this will not happen.
>
> >>Don't use acrylics on planes. They are too brittle (not flexible).
>
> One of the most commonly used aircraft paints is Sherwin Williams AcryGlow.
> Its good stuff, as a matter of fact I'm getting ready to place an order for
> some. Why Acrylic? Its a little easier to repair than poly (theoretically)
> and its a little less scary than polys in the paint booth. It will still
> mess you up plenty if you get a good snoot full. All these things will hurt
> you if you don't take care of yourself. Its also more friendly to color
> sanding the base coat before applying the clear coat. It allows you to
> actually color sand your base coat and still get a chemical bond with the
> clear coat after the sanding process if done within a certain time frame.
> This is the recipe for a dynamite paint job.
>
> One last thing about clears. A good reason to use a base coat clear coat is
> to seal the edges of your striping. All of us have seen nice paint jobs
> where the edges of paint stripes are chipping off. The wind sun and weather
> works non stop on these edges trying to separate the two. With a two stage
> paint process the edges are sealed from the elements, oil and dirt will
> never collect in the small edge where your masking tape once was. This
> makes for a more durable paint job.
>
> Ok, really the last thing. "But using a clear adds unnecessary weight to
> your plane." B.S! If done properly a single stage will come out to the same
> paint depth as a dual stage paint job. You are intended to use the same
> amount of clear as is put into a single stage paint at the factory. Its
> apples to apples, the method of application is the only difference. In
> addition to that, a clear coat is lighter and thinner than a normal coat of
> paint. Why? much less solids in a clear coat. A gallon of clear if sprayed
> to the point of just flowing out, will go much farther than a gallon of
> base, it just goes on thinner.
>
> I am not a paint professional, just a paint junkie. I love the stuff and
> find the whole art of painting one of the most fulfilling things I have
> learned. This is all just my opinion, but I'll put my money where my mouth
> is since I just told you exactly how my plane will be painted.
>
> Eric Henson
> Canopy
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | -360 crankshaft "potential metallurgical condition" |
23 March 2001
Lycoming issued MANDATORY Service Bulletin number 549.
NOTE: Affects only 4-cylinder crankshafts in -360 series engines.
(There were some crankshafts not heat treated properly.)
This effects crankshafts shipped from the factory between May 1, 1997,
and April 30, 2000.
Read about the issue:
http://www.aopa.org/whatsnew/regulatory/reglycoming_crank.html
Read the SB:
http://www.aopa.org/whatsnew/regulatory/lycoming_crankshaft_sb.pdf
So far, only 1 of 3 RVs in SoCAL with new engines from Van's is
effected. He will be having his crankshaft inspected FREE today in
Santa Monica (if we are VFR). It was reported that the prop must be
removed and that it takes 1 hour to do the inspection. After the work
is complete, there is a 6 hour wait to reinstall the prop and fly away.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
788+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
I would be looking for a short. Somewhere the insulation is cut or scraped
off and a wire is touching the airframe. It is in the wiring after the
ammeter.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: <JDaniel343(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2001 11:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: Ammeter
>
> I have Vans ammeter with 40 amp shunt. Wiring is from battery to shunt to
> Elec. Bobs fuse panel, with ammeter wired at shunt.
> I have only installed fuses for radios, elec. turn coord., panel lights
and
> dimmer.
> With the radios turned off and I turn the master on the ammeter goes
directly
> to -40.
> I am going to check amps with a multimeter but am wondering what could be
> causing this. I know the master solinoid draws quite a bit of current as
does
> the gyro but why -40. Everything else seems to work fine. (engine is not
> installed)
> Any hints?
>
> John Danielson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Higgins, John J." <john_higgins(at)merck.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 QB Kit For Sale |
Fellow listers - I was an active lister a couple of years ago when I began
an RV-8 kit - work gradually took more and more time - couldn't build so I
kept buying parts - I've finally and reluctantly come to the conclusion that
I will never have time to finish the airplane - so I'm finally putting it up
for sale
It's a complete RV-8 QB including the finishing kit - the emp is finished -
includes engine mounts, exhaust, Sensenich prop/spinner for O-360, Airflow
Performance injection kit, vac pump, VM-1000 & annunciator, PSS Sport AOA
kit, Andair gascolator/valve, flight instruments (ex-gyros), RMD tip lights,
3 strobe Whelen kit, intercom, Hooker belts, Johanson seats, electrical
parts, construction tapes, some tools - located in New Jersey
If anyone is interested, pls contact me off line at: john_higgins(at)merck.com
John Higgins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Analysis |
Randy,
Aviation Consumer recently (this year) reviewed 5-6 companies offering oil
analysis. It was a pretty good article and yes you should be getting an
analysis of what the counts mean.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (almost done with F/G)
Niantic, CT (Westerly airport)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: House of Kolor question |
I think some of the confusion over the statements forwarded by Barry is
due to the source of his info. He stated that he attended a Poly Fiber
forum, and Poly Fiber markets finish materials almost exclusively to the
builders of fabric covered aircraft. Since I have built two fabric
covered planes and refinished a J-3, I am familiar with Poly Fiber's
products and John's forums.
The statements reported by Barry are generally true if you are working
with fabric. Acrylic is indeed too brittle for fabric, but is totally
acceptable for a metal plane.
The water-borne products are a hot topic (and source of competition to
Poly Fiber) among the fabric builders, so obviously Poly Fiber is taking
a "wait and see" attitude.
Experimental fabric builders have painted planes with everything from
Rustoleum to latex house paint. That is the reason for John's statement
concerning Home Depot paint.
Hopefully this will clear the water a bit. The Poly Fiber forum was not
a very appropriate site for info concerning painting our metal RVs.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 Classic)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
=====================
barry pote wrote:
>
>
> 1. He said there are no one part polyurethanes. In other words there is
> one part of paint and another part (catalyst?). He said nothing about
> stages. He even went so far as to say that a can of 'polyurethane' from
> Home Depot, is not really polyurethane.
>
> 2. As for clear coating, I just report what he said.
>
> He also said he did not believe in waxing polyurethanes.
>
> He also said he would hold off on using waterbourne's till they are
> perfected.
>
> Barry Pote (just reporting what was said)
>
> Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > barry pote (at)matronics.com on 04/26/2001 05:14:48 PM
> >
> > Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >
> > Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > cc:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: House of Kolor question
> >
> >
> > Hey Barry, some of this is pretty weird. This is not a flame, I'm not
> > arguing with you, just some of his statements are a little odd.
> >
> > >>I am sorry to not have done this in just one message, but......
> > ref Sun N Fun painting seminar:
> >
> > >>Other things he said.
> >
> > >>There are no 1 part poly Urethanes. The good stuff is 2 parts.
> >
> > One part, did he mean one stage? By one part I think of open the can and
> > put it on without mixing it with anything. If that's what he meant then
> > well no sh**. If he meant one stage he's wrong, there are both single and
> > double stage polyurethanes. A single stage is a paint that has the color
> > and the clear already mixed together. A dual stage is one that you apply
> > the color base, which dries very flat. Then you apply the clear over it.
> > Basically they are the same paints, one is just separated from the other so
> > you can have greater control over the paint process.
> >
> > >>Don't use clear coat on polyurethanes. It is not needed with correct
> > technique. They chalk and grey faster.
> >
> > See above, I have no idea what he's basing this on. If you put five heavy
> > coats of clear on and park the plane in the sun it will start to grey on
> > you. If you follow the manufacturers recipe this will not happen.
> >
> > >>Don't use acrylics on planes. They are too brittle (not flexible).
> >
> > One of the most commonly used aircraft paints is Sherwin Williams AcryGlow.
> > Its good stuff, as a matter of fact I'm getting ready to place an order for
> > some. Why Acrylic? Its a little easier to repair than poly (theoretically)
> > and its a little less scary than polys in the paint booth. It will still
> > mess you up plenty if you get a good snoot full. All these things will hurt
> > you if you don't take care of yourself. Its also more friendly to color
> > sanding the base coat before applying the clear coat. It allows you to
> > actually color sand your base coat and still get a chemical bond with the
> > clear coat after the sanding process if done within a certain time frame.
> > This is the recipe for a dynamite paint job.
> >
> > One last thing about clears. A good reason to use a base coat clear coat is
> > to seal the edges of your striping. All of us have seen nice paint jobs
> > where the edges of paint stripes are chipping off. The wind sun and weather
> > works non stop on these edges trying to separate the two. With a two stage
> > paint process the edges are sealed from the elements, oil and dirt will
> > never collect in the small edge where your masking tape once was. This
> > makes for a more durable paint job.
> >
> > Ok, really the last thing. "But using a clear adds unnecessary weight to
> > your plane." B.S! If done properly a single stage will come out to the same
> > paint depth as a dual stage paint job. You are intended to use the same
> > amount of clear as is put into a single stage paint at the factory. Its
> > apples to apples, the method of application is the only difference. In
> > addition to that, a clear coat is lighter and thinner than a normal coat of
> > paint. Why? much less solids in a clear coat. A gallon of clear if sprayed
> > to the point of just flowing out, will go much farther than a gallon of
> > base, it just goes on thinner.
> >
> > I am not a paint professional, just a paint junkie. I love the stuff and
> > find the whole art of painting one of the most fulfilling things I have
> > learned. This is all just my opinion, but I'll put my money where my mouth
> > is since I just told you exactly how my plane will be painted.
> >
> > Eric Henson
> > Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Alternator puzzle- oscillating voltage |
| From: | "John Allen" <fliier(at)onebox.com> |
I am having some trouble with the alternator on my RV-6A and I am wondering
if anyone might offer some advice.
When I ran the engine the voltage in the system went to about 14.7 volts
and the needle on the voltmeter was "waving" with a 1-2 volt fluctuation.
I put a VOM on the electrical system and verified the voltage. The panel
lights also dim with the same frequency.
I removed the alternator and voltage regulator and took them to an alternator
shop. The fellow there put them both on the bench and ran them at high
speed (big electric motor turning the alternator with a belt). The voltage
was smooth as glass and pegged around 13.9 volts.
I put the alternator back on the engine and saw the same readings as
before, voltage oscillating around 14.7 volts plus or minus 1 volt.
I then ran a ground wire directly from the alternator case (the voltage
regulator is mounted on but not in the alternator)to the ground bus on
the firewall, which in turn is ground to the battery. No change. I
then disabled the OV protection Zener Diode. No change.
I am running Bob Nuckoll's electrical system with a primary (critical)
buss and secondary bus. I have a Cessna-tpe split master switch. The
Field wire also goes through a 5A CB. The B lead on the alternator goes
through a 60A CB. The alternator is a auto alternator conversion purchased
from Mark Landoll, and the voltage regulator is a small flat pack mounted
externally on the alternator which has a Ford part number.
I'm looking for ideas on why the voltage on the airplane would be higher
than on the bench, or why I would see voltage oscillations on the airplane
and not the bench. Any help would be appreciated.
John Allen
RV-6A
Signed off and ready to fly (boy,it feels good to say that)
Sign Up Now! http://www.onebox.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: House of Kolor question |
Sam, the FORUM was a Painting Forum. It so happened the the owner of
Poly Fiber was the speaker. The Axis (HVLP and the Hobby Air) were there
too. 95% of the attendees were 'aluminum plane' people. There was a Poly
Fiber forum in another tent, but this was not that.
Some of the things discussed: (quoting him)
LAQUER: soaks through previous coats and makes soft again
ENAMEL: are hard paints.
Acrylics: harder yet. good for cars. not good for planes that flex
more than cars.
Water Bourne: soft. doesn't weather well.
Aerothane,Randthane, Imron,Airtech are all good polyurethanes.
Don't wash down the floor just before painting. The humidity destroys
paint jobs.
Keep lights (the more lights the better) out of the paint booth. Let
them shine throught the plastic walls. You don't want one exploding
inside the booth while painting.
Many people in attendence said packing tape was better than duct tape
for making plastic/pvc paint booths.
The best way to paint is to spray so you can look into it and see the
reflection of the light in it as you go.
Left to right and then right to left with over lapping strokes.
Cris-cross pattern is only used with metalics, not with urethanes.
Gravity is your friend. Best results are obtained by laying objects to
be painted, FLAT. Avoid verticle painting. Paint the fuselage on a
roteserie.
Practice on luan paneling WITH THE GOOD, EXPENSIVE PRODUCT you are going
to use on the plane.
77 degrees with zero humidity is the best conditions to paint. Avoid
humid days. 70-80 degrees is OK.
3 coats are best on airplanes.
'Tach' coats are not needed with polyurethanes.
"more paint jobs are ruined by rushing to get it ready for OSH or Sun N
Fun!" do not rush!!! "Some great home paint jobs take 5 months".
Nothing at all was mentioned about POLY FIBERing fabric planes.
That was pretty much the whole seminar.
The man seemed very knowledgeable.
Barry (just reporting....not confused about what I heard) Pote
RV 9a Wings
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
>
> I think some of the confusion over the statements forwarded by Barry is
> due to the source of his info. He stated that he attended a Poly Fiber
> forum, and Poly Fiber markets finish materials almost exclusively to the
> builders of fabric covered aircraft. Since I have built two fabric
> covered planes and refinished a J-3, I am familiar with Poly Fiber's
> products and John's forums.
>
> The statements reported by Barry are generally true if you are working
> with fabric. Acrylic is indeed too brittle for fabric, but is totally
> acceptable for a metal plane.
>
> The water-borne products are a hot topic (and source of competition to
> Poly Fiber) among the fabric builders, so obviously Poly Fiber is taking
> a "wait and see" attitude.
>
> Experimental fabric builders have painted planes with everything from
> Rustoleum to latex house paint. That is the reason for John's statement
> concerning Home Depot paint.
>
> Hopefully this will clear the water a bit. The Poly Fiber forum was not
> a very appropriate site for info concerning painting our metal RVs.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6 Classic)
> "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
> =====================
>
> barry pote wrote:
> >
> >
> > 1. He said there are no one part polyurethanes. In other words there is
> > one part of paint and another part (catalyst?). He said nothing about
> > stages. He even went so far as to say that a can of 'polyurethane' from
> > Home Depot, is not really polyurethane.
> >
> > 2. As for clear coating, I just report what he said.
> >
> > He also said he did not believe in waxing polyurethanes.
> >
> > He also said he would hold off on using waterbourne's till they are
> > perfected.
> >
> > Barry Pote (just reporting what was said)
> >
> > Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > barry pote (at)matronics.com on 04/26/2001 05:14:48 PM
> > >
> > > Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >
> > > Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > >
> > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > cc:
> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: House of Kolor question
> > >
> > >
> > > Hey Barry, some of this is pretty weird. This is not a flame, I'm not
> > > arguing with you, just some of his statements are a little odd.
> > >
> > > >>I am sorry to not have done this in just one message, but......
> > > ref Sun N Fun painting seminar:
> > >
> > > >>Other things he said.
> > >
> > > >>There are no 1 part poly Urethanes. The good stuff is 2 parts.
> > >
> > > One part, did he mean one stage? By one part I think of open the can and
> > > put it on without mixing it with anything. If that's what he meant then
> > > well no sh**. If he meant one stage he's wrong, there are both single and
> > > double stage polyurethanes. A single stage is a paint that has the color
> > > and the clear already mixed together. A dual stage is one that you apply
> > > the color base, which dries very flat. Then you apply the clear over it.
> > > Basically they are the same paints, one is just separated from the other
so
> > > you can have greater control over the paint process.
> > >
> > > >>Don't use clear coat on polyurethanes. It is not needed with correct
> > > technique. They chalk and grey faster.
> > >
> > > See above, I have no idea what he's basing this on. If you put five heavy
> > > coats of clear on and park the plane in the sun it will start to grey on
> > > you. If you follow the manufacturers recipe this will not happen.
> > >
> > > >>Don't use acrylics on planes. They are too brittle (not flexible).
> > >
> > > One of the most commonly used aircraft paints is Sherwin Williams AcryGlow.
> > > Its good stuff, as a matter of fact I'm getting ready to place an order for
> > > some. Why Acrylic? Its a little easier to repair than poly (theoretically)
> > > and its a little less scary than polys in the paint booth. It will still
> > > mess you up plenty if you get a good snoot full. All these things will hurt
> > > you if you don't take care of yourself. Its also more friendly to color
> > > sanding the base coat before applying the clear coat. It allows you to
> > > actually color sand your base coat and still get a chemical bond with the
> > > clear coat after the sanding process if done within a certain time frame.
> > > This is the recipe for a dynamite paint job.
> > >
> > > One last thing about clears. A good reason to use a base coat clear coat
is
> > > to seal the edges of your striping. All of us have seen nice paint jobs
> > > where the edges of paint stripes are chipping off. The wind sun and weather
> > > works non stop on these edges trying to separate the two. With a two stage
> > > paint process the edges are sealed from the elements, oil and dirt will
> > > never collect in the small edge where your masking tape once was. This
> > > makes for a more durable paint job.
> > >
> > > Ok, really the last thing. "But using a clear adds unnecessary weight to
> > > your plane." B.S! If done properly a single stage will come out to the same
> > > paint depth as a dual stage paint job. You are intended to use the same
> > > amount of clear as is put into a single stage paint at the factory. Its
> > > apples to apples, the method of application is the only difference. In
> > > addition to that, a clear coat is lighter and thinner than a normal coat
of
> > > paint. Why? much less solids in a clear coat. A gallon of clear if sprayed
> > > to the point of just flowing out, will go much farther than a gallon of
> > > base, it just goes on thinner.
> > >
> > > I am not a paint professional, just a paint junkie. I love the stuff and
> > > find the whole art of painting one of the most fulfilling things I have
> > > learned. This is all just my opinion, but I'll put my money where my mouth
> > > is since I just told you exactly how my plane will be painted.
> > >
> > > Eric Henson
> > > Canopy
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: House of Kolor question |
Just, my input here. May not mean much but...
In a message dated 4/27/2001 10:10:02 AM Central Daylight Time,
barrypote(at)home.com writes:
>
> Sam, the FORUM was a Painting Forum. It so happened the the owner of
> Poly Fiber was the speaker. The Axis (HVLP and the Hobby Air) were there
> too. 95% of the attendees were 'aluminum plane' people. There was a Poly
> Fiber forum in another tent, but this was not that.
>
> Some of the things discussed: (quoting him)
> LAQUER: soaks through previous coats and makes soft again
> ENAMEL: are hard paints.
> Acrylics: harder yet. good for cars. not good for planes that flex
> more
> Water Bourne: soft. doesn't weather well.
> Aerothane,Randthane, Imron,Airtech are all good polyurethanes.
> Don't wash down the floor just before painting. The humidity destroys
> paint jobs.
> Keep lights (the more lights the better) out of the paint booth. Let
> them shine throught the plastic walls. You don't want one exploding
> inside the booth while painting.
Lights can be in the paint booth. THe connections just have to be sealed,
aka enclosed in pipes.
> Many people in attendence said packing tape was better than duct tape
> for making plastic/pvc paint booths.
> The best way to paint is to spray so you can look into it and see the
> reflection of the light in it as you go.
> Left to right and then right to left with over lapping strokes.
> Cris-cross pattern is only used with metalics, not with urethanes.
> Gravity is your friend. Best results are obtained by laying objects to
> be painted, FLAT. Avoid verticle painting. Paint the fuselage on a
> roteserie.
Right, but thats easier said then done, but if you dont overspray it wont
run, so....
> Practice on luan paneling WITH THE GOOD, EXPENSIVE PRODUCT you are going
> to use on the plane.
> 77 degrees with zero humidity is the best conditions to paint. Avoid
> humid days. 70-80 degrees is OK.
The catalyst in the paint can be changed to correct for teperature and humity
> 3 coats are best on airplanes.
Depends on the paint color and product
> 'Tach' coats are not needed with polyurethanes.
> "more paint jobs are ruined by rushing to get it ready for OSH or Sun N
> Fun!" do not rush!!! "Some great home paint jobs take 5 months".
>
> Nothing at all was mentioned about POLY FIBERing fabric planes.
>
Also nothing was said about venting the booth so that overspray doenst fall
back on the aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: House of Kolor question |
Barry, my apologies for mis-characterizing your statements.
Your quote "It was hosted by the owner of Poly Fiber" lead me to
erroneously jump to the conclusion it was a Poly Fiber forum. I assumed
the statements quoted were primarily intended for Poly Fiber customers.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, PPG Concept, DP50 primer, S/W wash primer, Rustoleum
whenever the mood struck me.....)
========================
barry pote wrote:
>
>
> Sam, the FORUM was a Painting Forum. It so happened the the owner of
> Poly Fiber was the speaker. The Axis (HVLP and the Hobby Air) were there
> too. 95% of the attendees were 'aluminum plane' people. There was a Poly
> Fiber forum in another tent, but this was not that.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Las Vegas/Henderson/Boulder City RVers) |
Change of plans. NORTH Las Vegas would now be my preferred airport. So....
anyone?
Randall Henderson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2001 8:37 AM
Subject: RV-List: Las Vegas/Henderson/Boulder City RVers
>
> I'm taking a trip down to Nevada (Las Vegas area) in late July . Will be
> needing to park my RV-6 for 8-9 days. Is there anyone in that area who can
> help me with finding a hangar to keep it in for that time?
>
> Best for me would be Boulder City, but if there's nothing there, Henderson
> would probably work. I suppose McCarran Int'l could work but I'd just as
> soon not go into the big Int'l airport (and they'd probably just as soon I
> didn't as well)....
>
> Anyone have any ideas, please contact me off-line.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~200 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: House of Kolor question |
CW, you are right. I forgot that. Over spray in the air should be
vacated from the booth, before it falls into the paint job. Some people
used airconditioning filters to clean the air. If you use a fan as a
'sucker', make real sure it is a sealed unit (no sparks). Even if you
use it as a "PUSHER" to push air into the booth, you should be careful
with the kind of fan.
He also gave a nice idea on a paint booth. 'Make a rectangle of PVC'.
Hang the plastic from it. Pull the PVC pipe rectangle to the ceiling.
Tape the plastic walls to it. You can roll up the 'walls' when not in
use and store your paint booth on the ceiling between uses.
That's it! I have a plane to build.
Barry
>
> Also nothing was said about venting the booth so that overspray doenst fall
> back on the aircraft
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
Randy,
This will not be an easy or short answer to your question. Chemical
annalysis had been around for years. It is primarily used to determine
the condition of an engine where teardown inspections are not practical
or cost prohibitive. I do have a few questions though. Did the lab ask
what oil you where using? Application where it was used, ie,
air-cooled, water-cooled, Fuel type used and so on. Without having a
standard or base in which to gauge the findings, true all you get is a
bunch of numbers. You also need to know what things are made of and
what is being produced during combustion. Two inert components can and
most times do ionize into harmful elements such as acids, which is normal.
If you have new oil that has 0ppm of say Cu and you get your findings
back and there is 380 ppm of Cu then there is a good probability that
something is really going bad with the bearings or something that has a
lot of copper in it. Same is true if you use a low ash oil and you get
a high ppm of carbon in the findings. A little C is okay and normal but
if it's real high then somethings not right.
In short the oil annalysis is just a "tool" you use with many other
things to determine the health of an engine and how it is performing or
being used. It does help steer you in where to start looking.
The lab we use charges $135.00 for both coolant and oil but, when we get
the results back we can see how the engine was used, what temps is was
run at, even if the oil was changed regularly by knowing what elements
and compounds to look for.
I'd call the lab and ask if they have a comparitive to the oil you use
so you have something to go by.
Sorry about the length.
Jim D.
Peformance Engineering
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Analysis |
I have my oil analyzed by AOA. I buy the kits from Aircraft Spruce. Their
reports come back with a good listing of what the general limits are on the
different metals, trend analysis, and notes and alerts on any anomalies.
There are a number of articles out there too -- search the web for aircraft
engine oil analysis.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~200 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <tomvelvick(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator puzzle- oscillating voltage |
>I'm looking for ideas on why the voltage on the airplane would be higher
>than on the bench, or why I would see voltage oscillations on the airplane
>and not the bench. Any help would be appreciated.
I had a thought, if it runs fine on the bench, then I wonder if your
battery is affecting it and is just low causing it to charge at a higher
rate?
Regards,
Tom Velvick
Peoria, AZ
rv-4
rv-6a wiring panel still
>John Allen
>RV-6A
>Signed off and ready to fly (boy,it feels good to say that)
>
>
>Sign Up Now! http://www.onebox.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator puzzle- oscillating voltage |
Check for a bad connection or bad ground. Make sure you have a ground strap
from engine to airframe. Check to see if the regulator is correctly
grounded. Some regulators use just the case, others have a ground wire. If
you don't find a bad connection then start checking for a high resistance
master relay.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Allen" <fliier(at)onebox.com>
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 10:00 AM
Subject: RV-List: Alternator puzzle- oscillating voltage
>
> I am having some trouble with the alternator on my RV-6A and I am
wondering
> if anyone might offer some advice.
>
> When I ran the engine the voltage in the system went to about 14.7 volts
> and the needle on the voltmeter was "waving" with a 1-2 volt fluctuation.
> I put a VOM on the electrical system and verified the voltage. The panel
> lights also dim with the same frequency.
>
> I removed the alternator and voltage regulator and took them to an
alternator
> shop. The fellow there put them both on the bench and ran them at high
> speed (big electric motor turning the alternator with a belt). The
voltage
> was smooth as glass and pegged around 13.9 volts.
>
> I put the alternator back on the engine and saw the same readings as
> before, voltage oscillating around 14.7 volts plus or minus 1 volt.
>
> I then ran a ground wire directly from the alternator case (the voltage
> regulator is mounted on but not in the alternator)to the ground bus on
> the firewall, which in turn is ground to the battery. No change. I
> then disabled the OV protection Zener Diode. No change.
>
> I am running Bob Nuckoll's electrical system with a primary (critical)
> buss and secondary bus. I have a Cessna-tpe split master switch. The
> Field wire also goes through a 5A CB. The B lead on the alternator goes
> through a 60A CB. The alternator is a auto alternator conversion
purchased
> from Mark Landoll, and the voltage regulator is a small flat pack mounted
> externally on the alternator which has a Ford part number.
>
> I'm looking for ideas on why the voltage on the airplane would be higher
> than on the bench, or why I would see voltage oscillations on the airplane
> and not the bench. Any help would be appreciated.
>
>
> John Allen
> RV-6A
> Signed off and ready to fly (boy,it feels good to say that)
>
>
> Sign Up Now! http://www.onebox.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
Guys,
I don't want to jump in the middle of Barry and Eric BUT... having
started with DUCO back in the late 60's, I think I've got a little
experience under my belt using automotive and aircraft finishes.
First , it seems like the speaker from fun 'n sun is confusing the
discussion with using different terminology and comparing "industrial
finishes" (Home Depot?) with A&A finishes. Eric brings out good points
about stages not "parts". If you look at "parts" with Imron say, you
technically have 4 parts but it is considered a 1 stage system.
We us both 1 & 2 stage systems. generally 2 stage because we can "seal"
the entire surface with clear and we can do so much more as far as
stripes, graphics and such with the base coat and it's fast and smooth.
Single stage is fine but, if your laying out several colors, you to have
to wait a couple of days curing before you lay each color and you will
always have a "seam" at the color borders.
As far as weight of single stage Vs. two-stage...it's nominal. the real
weight is in the primers and sealers, about 60-70% of total.
As far as "chalking" generally it only happens when there isn't enough
clear applied or the finish was forced dried improperly. The clear is
what contains 90% of the UV inhibitor in A&A finishes. Wheather it's a
1 or 2 stage system. Most "industrial finishes" (Home Depot?) have
little or no UV protection. So yeah, I can see where the speaker says
that it will chalk if you use it.
I just can't see myself painting a beutiful thing as an airplane with
Home Depot "house paint".
Nuff Said!....Where's that roller?
Jim D.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass question |
I hear that the beauty of working with fiberglass is that it is easy to fix
your mistakes. Hopefully that will be true. I began cutting my cowl last
weekend. I made the cut and the top half fits beautifully against the top
skin! So what's the problem? I didn't keep the gap between colw and
spinner equal all the way around! I need to shift the colw a bit to make
the gap equal. However, when I do that a gap appears between the edge of
the cowl and top skin on the left side! Looks to be about 1/8 inch at the
widest. So fiberglass gurus, how can I build that edge back up to meet the
top skin again? Thanks. (again)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass question |
Can't answer your question . . . just a reminder to leave a small gap ( .025
perhaps? I think Van's says 1/16th inch but this seems like the Grand
Canyon) around all of the cowl edges to accommodate painting. I fit my cowl
as perfectly as possible, THEN I did the light sanding to make the small
clearance for paint.
Rick Jory
----- Original Message -----
From: Van Artsdalen, Scott <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 11:04 AM
Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass question
>
> I hear that the beauty of working with fiberglass is that it is easy to
fix
> your mistakes. Hopefully that will be true. I began cutting my cowl last
> weekend. I made the cut and the top half fits beautifully against the top
> skin! So what's the problem? I didn't keep the gap between colw and
> spinner equal all the way around! I need to shift the colw a bit to make
> the gap equal. However, when I do that a gap appears between the edge of
> the cowl and top skin on the left side! Looks to be about 1/8 inch at the
> widest. So fiberglass gurus, how can I build that edge back up to meet
the
> top skin again? Thanks. (again)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Schilling" <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass question |
You sure can! I did it more than once to get the fit that I wanted. What
worked well for me was to take a piece of alum. and cover it with some clear
packing tape and then tape and clamp it to the edge of the piece. This gave
me a surface to layup over. Much eaiser this way. Karl
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass question |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
17, 2001) at 04/27/2001 02:05:34 PM
I had a similar problem as I fitted the (epoxy) cowl to my -4. After
"re-fitting" the cowl, I was left with a gap that went from zero to 1/8" at
the aft edge of the top cowl where it met with the cheek piece on the left
side. Here is what I did:
Using a scrap of glass that I had cut off early in the fitting process, I
made a "wedge" and glued back on using a structural adhesive. Because I
used a scrap originally cut from the same area, it fit quite well. The
piece I glued on was oversize, so I carefully sanded it to match the
cheekpiece. The bonded joint was a butt-joint (not very strong), so I
added a patch of very lightweight glass on the (outside) top surface of the
cowl. After feathering the edges of the additional layer of glass, it was
not noticeable. You may be able to glass the underside instead of, or in
addition to the top side. I didn't want to add thickness to the underside
as that surface rested on the cheekpiece.
I hope this helps. If you have additional questions, please feel free to
contact me offline.
Dean Pichon
RV-4
Arlington, MA
|--------+---------------------------------->
| | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" |
| | |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
| | ronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 04/27/01 01:04 PM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv-list |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------------->
|
|
| To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
|
| cc:
|
| bcc:
|
| Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass question
|
I hear that the beauty of working with fiberglass is that it is easy to fix
your mistakes. Hopefully that will be true. I began cutting my cowl last
weekend. I made the cut and the top half fits beautifully against the top
skin! So what's the problem? I didn't keep the gap between colw and
spinner equal all the way around! I need to shift the colw a bit to make
the gap equal. However, when I do that a gap appears between the edge of
the cowl and top skin on the left side! Looks to be about 1/8 inch at the
widest. So fiberglass gurus, how can I build that edge back up to meet the
top skin again? Thanks. (again)
**** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one of
Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may contain
confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee
only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not
the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternator puzzle- oscillating voltage |
| From: | Scott.Fink(at)microchip.com |
04/27/2001 11:05:27 AM,
Serialize complete at 04/27/2001 11:05:27 AM
John,
A very common reason for the fluctuating voltage is a dirty master switch
or a bad connection somewhere else in the field winding circuit. I had
this problem in my Piper and verified that jumpering around the alternator
side of the split master switch fixed the problem.
Scott
RV6
"John Allen"
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
04/27/2001 08:00 AM
Please respond to rv-list
To: rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Alternator puzzle- oscillating voltage
I am having some trouble with the alternator on my RV-6A and I am
wondering
if anyone might offer some advice.
When I ran the engine the voltage in the system went to about 14.7 volts
and the needle on the voltmeter was "waving" with a 1-2 volt fluctuation.
I put a VOM on the electrical system and verified the voltage. The panel
lights also dim with the same frequency.
I removed the alternator and voltage regulator and took them to an
alternator
shop. The fellow there put them both on the bench and ran them at high
speed (big electric motor turning the alternator with a belt). The
voltage
was smooth as glass and pegged around 13.9 volts.
I put the alternator back on the engine and saw the same readings as
before, voltage oscillating around 14.7 volts plus or minus 1 volt.
I then ran a ground wire directly from the alternator case (the voltage
regulator is mounted on but not in the alternator)to the ground bus on
the firewall, which in turn is ground to the battery. No change. I
then disabled the OV protection Zener Diode. No change.
I am running Bob Nuckoll's electrical system with a primary (critical)
buss and secondary bus. I have a Cessna-tpe split master switch. The
Field wire also goes through a 5A CB. The B lead on the alternator goes
through a 60A CB. The alternator is a auto alternator conversion
purchased
from Mark Landoll, and the voltage regulator is a small flat pack mounted
externally on the alternator which has a Ford part number.
I'm looking for ideas on why the voltage on the airplane would be higher
than on the bench, or why I would see voltage oscillations on the airplane
and not the bench. Any help would be appreciated.
John Allen
RV-6A
Signed off and ready to fly (boy,it feels good to say that)
Sign Up Now! http://www.onebox.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Analysis |
Randy,
If you would be willing to post your results I could help you and maybe
everyone would have a little insight. It is not very hard to tell if
something is going haywire. The best information however comes from a
consistent baseline on your engine.
Fortunately in airplanes the kind of oil you use is not really relevant
because it is all ashless. (read, no metallic additives)
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
snip
> Is this what I get for my $25 or is there supposed to be more to it? I
would
> have thought that I would at least get one sentence that says "everything
looks
> normal" or "have a mechanic check out your engine" or something.
>
> Help please.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil Analysis |
Randy and others, there is a man in Tulsa named Howard Fenton who does oil analysis.
His company is, I believe, called Engine Oil Analysis. He only does aircraft
engines. He has a lot of experience with aircraft engines, having worked
in the overhaul business for a long time.
I strongly recommend this service because he has been very helpful and given useful
advice in the past. Mark Goldberg RV-8 N982RV 130 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roy Glass <rlglass(at)alaska.net> |
| Subject: | Alaska trip planning |
Members of EAA's Chapter 42 in Anchorage, Alaska would love to meet
those traveling to our beautiful state and will enthusiastically assist
you any way we can. Many members are willing to help provide housing.
Tools and a float-plane slip can also be provided. Tours of local RV
projects can also be arranged. Chapter 42 members do not need much of an
excuse to gather for story telling and eating and would love to meet a
group of travelers. Several Chapter 42 hang out at Birchwood airport,
located about 20 miles northeast of downtown Anchorage. Contact me
off-list if you're coming up this way. Fly carefully.
Roy Glass
Anchorage, AK
RV-6, sanding and filling the tip-up canopy frame's f/g and running out
of excuses not to cut the plexi
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nice.....smart .... |
--- Bill Shook wrote:
>
>
> Uh...damn...sorry guys...thought I was sending this to Eric only.
> Foot in
> mouth syndrome...it's a terrible thing to taste.
Never apologize for stating the truth.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Cherroff" <sam(at)videoassist.com> |
| Subject: | "Flexible Fiberglass" ?? |
Hey listers,
Does anyone know of a fabric/polymer composite solution that can
be hand laid, but after curing becomes more like hard rubber than
stiff fiberglass? I need to make a fairing in a location that will have to
endure some impact without shattering.
Would laminations of glass cloth with RTV silicone as the liquid
component work? Is there a two-part version of RTV, instead of the
air-dry type? Different hardnesses? What does the stuff cost? How
can it be finshed/painted?
Thanks,
--Sam
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: "Flexible Fiberglass" ?? |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
17, 2001) at 04/27/2001 04:46:25 PM
I have seen air ducts made with fiberglass and two-part silicone resin.
The silicone will not likely accept paint, but you could pigment the
resin...
There are an infinite number of silicone casting resins available. You
might also try two part urethane casting resins. A web-search will turn up
many choices. Hapco is an east coast company that makes tooling resins.
Most fiberglass has a sizing to help the resin wet it. You may have to
experiment to find a good combination of cloth and resin. Finally, vinyl
ester resins can be modified to be quite "rubbery". Talk to Dow Chemicals
about their Derakane resin.
Good Luck,
Dean
|--------+---------------------------------->
| | "Sam Cherroff" |
| | |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
| | ronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 04/27/01 04:02 PM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv-list |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------------->
|
|
| To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
|
| cc:
|
| bcc:
|
| Subject: RV-List: "Flexible Fiberglass" ??
|
Hey listers,
Does anyone know of a fabric/polymer composite solution that can
be hand laid, but after curing becomes more like hard rubber than
stiff fiberglass? I need to make a fairing in a location that will have to
endure some impact without shattering.
Would laminations of glass cloth with RTV silicone as the liquid
component work? Is there a two-part version of RTV, instead of the
air-dry type? Different hardnesses? What does the stuff cost? How
can it be finshed/painted?
Thanks,
--Sam
**** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one of
Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may contain
confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee
only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not
the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator puzzle- oscillating voltage |
Check to see if the regulator battery sense input is connected to the main
bus through the master switch. If you have it connected to the back-up or
"essential bus", the output to the main bus will be too high. The regulator
will be trying to regulate the essential bus which is about .8 volts lower
than the main bus since there is a power diode between the two.
Garth Shearing
VariEze and 75% RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: John Allen <fliier(at)onebox.com>
Sent: April 27, 2001 8:00 AM
Subject: RV-List: Alternator puzzle- oscillating voltage
> When I ran the engine the voltage in the system went to about 14.7 volts
> and the needle on the voltmeter was "waving" with a 1-2 volt fluctuation.
> I put a VOM on the electrical system and verified the voltage. The panel
> lights also dim with the same frequency.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "Flexible Fiberglass" ?? |
About 20 years ago I played with a "Conformal Coating" material made by Dow
Chemicals originally marketed as an electronic potting compound. I
custom-made a complex air hose shape which was laid up much like any other
glass lay-up using BID glass.
Unfortunately I don't remember the part number, but I have a 1995 issue of
a Newark Electronics catalogue which lists a two-part silicone rubber
material which looks like it is an equivalent, made by GE. The following
part numbers for various viscosities are as follows:
RTV-615, "Low viscosity"
RTV-630, "Medium viscosity"
RTV-60, "Cures to a hard rubber"
I would probably go for the low viscosity version for easy wetting out. The
disadvantages are high cost, in the order of $100 for a 1 lb. package, and
relatively high weight. Cure time is 24-36 hours. They do withstand quite
high temperatures, up to 600 degrees F.
By the way, I have heard of people using MEK to thin out one part silicon
rubber, but I have no personal experience with it. Perhaps someone else on
the list can enlighten us.
Garth Shearing
VariEze and 75% RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: Sam Cherroff <sam(at)videoassist.com>
Sent: April 27, 2001 1:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: "Flexible Fiberglass" ??
>
> Hey listers,
> Does anyone know of a fabric/polymer composite solution that can
> be hand laid, but after curing becomes more like hard rubber than
> stiff fiberglass? I need to make a fairing in a location that will have
to
> endure some impact without shattering.
>
> Would laminations of glass cloth with RTV silicone as the liquid
> component work? Is there a two-part version of RTV, instead of the
> air-dry type? Different hardnesses? What does the stuff cost? How
> can it be finshed/painted?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Sam
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Vortex generators - long |
Fellow Listers:
I just came back from a day spent with Larry Vetterman. He flew his RV-4
from Hot Springs SD and I met him in my -4 in Madison, SD.
As you know Larry has installed VGs on his -4 and since his -4 is very
similar to mine (180 hp, CS prop, nearly identical empty weights), I wanted
to fly in his airplane and compare to a non-VG equipped RV-4.
We were at gross weight with the two of us in the airplane. T/O roll is
very short, even compared to mine which accelerates like a dragster.
Probably less than 300'. We climbed up to altitude and Larry did some slow
flight demos. The airplane is rock solid at an IAS of 40 mph (granted
highly inaccurate at this speed). Aileron control is superb, certainly more
responsive than mine at this speed. Stall break is pretty much the same as
mine. I really could not detect any significant difference in top end speed
(Larry says his IAS that day at 9500 ft was 178 mph at full throttle and
2400 rpm... same as mine).
The approach was really about the same although we certainly could fly a
little slower. But the touchdown speed was slower than mine and we did use
less runway.
The most significant difference I noticed was the much improved yaw
stability. In turbulence my RV-4 has a pronounced tail wag. Larry's had
none. It just bumped along perfectly straight in yaw. It was much more
comfortable in the back seat than mine for that reason. Larry has no
aerodynamic reason for this improvement (his airplane had the usual RV yaw
prior to installing the VGs). But whatever the reason, it is greatly
improved in turbulence and would make the VGs worthwhile for that reason
alone.
Anyway, I'm not sure if I will install them on my -4 yet, but I am very
tempted.
Thought you all might be interested.
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Higgins, John J." <john_higgins(at)merck.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 QB Kit For Sale |
Folks - this is a completely amazing list - the kit has been sold already
John Higgins
-----Original Message-----
From: Higgins, John J. [mailto:john_higgins(at)merck.com]
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 9:27 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 QB Kit For Sale
Fellow listers - I was an active lister a couple of years ago when I began
an RV-8 kit - work gradually took more and more time - couldn't build so I
kept buying parts - I've finally and reluctantly come to the conclusion that
I will never have time to finish the airplane - so I'm finally putting it up
for sale
It's a complete RV-8 QB including the finishing kit - the emp is finished -
includes engine mounts, exhaust, Sensenich prop/spinner for O-360, Airflow
Performance injection kit, vac pump, VM-1000 & annunciator, PSS Sport AOA
kit, Andair gascolator/valve, flight instruments (ex-gyros), RMD tip lights,
3 strobe Whelen kit, intercom, Hooker belts, Johanson seats, electrical
parts, construction tapes, some tools - located in New Jersey
If anyone is interested, pls contact me off line at: john_higgins(at)merck.com
John Higgins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vortex generators - long |
One question. You quoted a top speed of 178 with an 0-360 and constant
speed? Was that a typo or did I miss something? If that's true, Van's
numbers are GROSSLY inaccurate and I thought that wasn't the case. Van's
quotes a 75% cruise speed of 189 with a 150hp engine.....what gives?
Bill
-4 wings and hoping for a top speed of better than 178....van's numbers say
a cruise of 200 !!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com>
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 6:22 PM
Subject: RV-List: Vortex generators - long
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> I just came back from a day spent with Larry Vetterman. He flew his RV-4
> from Hot Springs SD and I met him in my -4 in Madison, SD.
>
> As you know Larry has installed VGs on his -4 and since his -4 is very
> similar to mine (180 hp, CS prop, nearly identical empty weights), I
wanted
> to fly in his airplane and compare to a non-VG equipped RV-4.
>
> We were at gross weight with the two of us in the airplane. T/O roll is
> very short, even compared to mine which accelerates like a dragster.
> Probably less than 300'. We climbed up to altitude and Larry did some
slow
> flight demos. The airplane is rock solid at an IAS of 40 mph (granted
> highly inaccurate at this speed). Aileron control is superb, certainly
more
> responsive than mine at this speed. Stall break is pretty much the same
as
> mine. I really could not detect any significant difference in top end
speed
> (Larry says his IAS that day at 9500 ft was 178 mph at full throttle and
> 2400 rpm... same as mine).
>
> The approach was really about the same although we certainly could fly a
> little slower. But the touchdown speed was slower than mine and we did
use
> less runway.
>
> The most significant difference I noticed was the much improved yaw
> stability. In turbulence my RV-4 has a pronounced tail wag. Larry's had
> none. It just bumped along perfectly straight in yaw. It was much more
> comfortable in the back seat than mine for that reason. Larry has no
> aerodynamic reason for this improvement (his airplane had the usual RV yaw
> prior to installing the VGs). But whatever the reason, it is greatly
> improved in turbulence and would make the VGs worthwhile for that reason
> alone.
>
> Anyway, I'm not sure if I will install them on my -4 yet, but I am very
> tempted.
>
> Thought you all might be interested.
>
> Doug Weiler
> MN Wing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vortex generators - long |
Bill Shook wrote:
>
>
> One question. You quoted a top speed of 178 with an 0-360 and constant
> speed? Was that a typo or did I miss something? If that's true, Van's
> numbers are GROSSLY inaccurate and I thought that wasn't the case. Van's
> quotes a 75% cruise speed of 189 with a 150hp engine.....what gives?
>
> Bill
> -4 wings and hoping for a top speed of better than 178....van's numbers say
> a cruise of 200 !!
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com>
> To: "RV List"
> Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 6:22 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Vortex generators - long
>
> >
> > Fellow Listers:
> >
> > I just came back from a day spent with Larry Vetterman. He flew his RV-4
> > from Hot Springs SD and I met him in my -4 in Madison, SD.
> >
> > As you know Larry has installed VGs on his -4 and since his -4 is very
> > similar to mine (180 hp, CS prop, nearly identical empty weights), I
> wanted
> > to fly in his airplane and compare to a non-VG equipped RV-4.
> >
> > We were at gross weight with the two of us in the airplane. T/O roll is
> > very short, even compared to mine which accelerates like a dragster.
> > Probably less than 300'. We climbed up to altitude and Larry did some
> slow
> > flight demos. The airplane is rock solid at an IAS of 40 mph (granted
> > highly inaccurate at this speed). Aileron control is superb, certainly
> more
> > responsive than mine at this speed. Stall break is pretty much the same
> as
> > mine. I really could not detect any significant difference in top end
> speed
> > (Larry says his IAS that day at 9500 ft was 178 mph at full throttle and
> > 2400 rpm... same as mine).
> >
> > The approach was really about the same although we certainly could fly a
> > little slower. But the touchdown speed was slower than mine and we did
> use
> > less runway.
> >
> > The most significant difference I noticed was the much improved yaw
> > stability. In turbulence my RV-4 has a pronounced tail wag. Larry's had
> > none. It just bumped along perfectly straight in yaw. It was much more
> > comfortable in the back seat than mine for that reason. Larry has no
> > aerodynamic reason for this improvement (his airplane had the usual RV yaw
> > prior to installing the VGs). But whatever the reason, it is greatly
> > improved in turbulence and would make the VGs worthwhile for that reason
> > alone.
> >
> > Anyway, I'm not sure if I will install them on my -4 yet, but I am very
> > tempted.
> >
> > Thought you all might be interested.
> >
> > Doug Weiler
> > MN Wing
> >
> >
>
Bill I am guessing he quoted indicated speed, his true airspeed is probably
much faster than that, at least it is in my 180hp RV-6. Ah I went back and
read his post and it does say IAS.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vortex generators - long |
>
> One question. You quoted a top speed of 178 with an 0-360 and constant
> speed? Was that a typo or did I miss something? If that's true, Van's
> numbers are GROSSLY inaccurate and I thought that wasn't the case. Van's
> quotes a 75% cruise speed of 189 with a 150hp engine.....what gives?
>
> Bill
> -4 wings and hoping for a top speed of better than 178....van's numbers
say
> a cruise of 200 !!
No, no, no.. that was 178 mph IAS at 9500' which translates to a TAS of 207
mph (180 knots)
Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vortex generators - long |
I assume 178 mph was indicated airspeed (IAS) at 9500'. At that altitude, True
Airspeed (TAS) is 203 mph, which is still a bit slow for a 180 hp CS RV-4, but
in the ball park and close to Van's numbers.
Andy
>
> One question. You quoted a top speed of 178 with an 0-360 and constant
> speed? Was that a typo or did I miss something? If that's true, Van's
> numbers are GROSSLY inaccurate and I thought that wasn't the case. Van's
> quotes a 75% cruise speed of 189 with a 150hp engine.....what gives?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vortex generators - long |
What Doug said was INDICATED airspeed at 9500, true airspeed will be
significantly more than that. I'd calculate it but I don't know the temp or
pressure.
Mike Nellis
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
RV-6 N699BM (reserved)N
Plainfield, IL (LOT)
Building Flaps
http://bmnellis.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 5:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Vortex generators - long
>
> One question. You quoted a top speed of 178 with an 0-360 and constant
> speed? Was that a typo or did I miss something? If that's true, Van's
> numbers are GROSSLY inaccurate and I thought that wasn't the case. Van's
> quotes a 75% cruise speed of 189 with a 150hp engine.....what gives?
>
> Bill
> -4 wings and hoping for a top speed of better than 178....van's numbers
say
> a cruise of 200 !!
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com>
> To: "RV List"
> Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 6:22 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Vortex generators - long
>
>
> >
> > Fellow Listers:
> >
> > I just came back from a day spent with Larry Vetterman. He flew his
RV-4
> > from Hot Springs SD and I met him in my -4 in Madison, SD.
> >
> > As you know Larry has installed VGs on his -4 and since his -4 is very
> > similar to mine (180 hp, CS prop, nearly identical empty weights), I
> wanted
> > to fly in his airplane and compare to a non-VG equipped RV-4.
> >
> > We were at gross weight with the two of us in the airplane. T/O roll is
> > very short, even compared to mine which accelerates like a dragster.
> > Probably less than 300'. We climbed up to altitude and Larry did some
> slow
> > flight demos. The airplane is rock solid at an IAS of 40 mph (granted
> > highly inaccurate at this speed). Aileron control is superb, certainly
> more
> > responsive than mine at this speed. Stall break is pretty much the same
> as
> > mine. I really could not detect any significant difference in top end
> speed
> > (Larry says his IAS that day at 9500 ft was 178 mph at full throttle and
> > 2400 rpm... same as mine).
> >
> > The approach was really about the same although we certainly could fly a
> > little slower. But the touchdown speed was slower than mine and we did
> use
> > less runway.
> >
> > The most significant difference I noticed was the much improved yaw
> > stability. In turbulence my RV-4 has a pronounced tail wag. Larry's
had
> > none. It just bumped along perfectly straight in yaw. It was much more
> > comfortable in the back seat than mine for that reason. Larry has no
> > aerodynamic reason for this improvement (his airplane had the usual RV
yaw
> > prior to installing the VGs). But whatever the reason, it is greatly
> > improved in turbulence and would make the VGs worthwhile for that reason
> > alone.
> >
> > Anyway, I'm not sure if I will install them on my -4 yet, but I am very
> > tempted.
> >
> > Thought you all might be interested.
> >
> > Doug Weiler
> > MN Wing
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
Hello All,
I just read Doug W.'s post about VG's & his mention of tail wag. Not too
long ago I discovered that if I keep pressure on both rudder pedals while in
the pattern, especially on final, the tail wag is much reduced. You can tell
I'm slow. I've been flying a little over a yr. & just now figured this out.
Guess you would call this the "peddle fixed" rudder case. Makes the VS &
rudder act as one big VS.
Rick Caldwell
-6 214 hrs & frustrated with more broken avionics. Don't buy Chinese!
Melbourne, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gyros Anyone? |
In a message dated Thu, 26 Apr 2001 10:36:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Bill VonDane"
writes:
Hi all...
Anybody out there overhaul gyros? I have a DG and AI that I need checked
out at least, and probably overhauled...
Please contact me off list: bill(at)vondane.com
And... >>
Bill-
Try Jeff Chambliss @ California Gyro in Livermore, CA 925-426-0555.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Analysis |
In a message dated Fri, 27 Apr 2001 8:58:37 AM Eastern Daylight Time, rpflanze(at)iquest.net
writes:
Hey Guys,
I need some help from those of you that have sent an oil sample out to be analyzed.
I bought a couple of analysis packets at Sun-n-Fun this year, and when I got
back home, I changed my oil and sent a sample away per the instructions. This
is the first time I've ever had my oil analyzed. The engine is a Bart O-320
with 140 hours on it.
Yesterday, I got a letter from the company with a list of the trace elements
found in the oil. That's it!! So I'm thinking to myself, where is the analysis
at? Am I supposed to look at these number of about 7 elements and deduce something
from it? I could find nothing else on the sheet to tell me what the numbers
meant.
Is this what I get for my $25 or is there supposed to be more to it? I would
have thought that I would at least get one sentence that says "everything looks
normal" or "have a mechanic check out your engine" or something.>>
If you went to Howard Fenton at Engine Oil Analysis in Tulsa, OK you would get
commentary in addition to analysis. Howard does oil anaysis of aircraft engines
only and has many years of experience in this field. Contact info is (where
else?) in the Yeller Pages.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Mounting terminal block on RV-6A slider |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
From: "Randy Garrett" <rlgarrett7(at)home.com>
Subject: RV-List: Mounting terminal block on RV-6A slider
I have Van's wiring harness kit. Unfortunately (for me) the plans show
the location of the terminal block (WH-801) for the tilt up canopy. On
the slider, the instrument subpanel is different, so that location won't
work ... it would overlap the joint where the two halves of the subpanel
are joined.
I could pick a somewhat arbitrary location of the terminal block, but
with my luck, that would guarantee that the pre-fab wires in the wiring
harness would be too short. Has someone else already figured out a good
location for the terminal block, so that the wires in the wiring harness
still reach?
Thanks,
Randy
Randy,
It doesn't matter if it overlaps the joint in the sub panel bulkhead.
The terminal block is slightly flexible and wont break on the slightly
irregular surface.
It was designed for either canopy style to use the same measurements for
component locations.
Scott McDaniels
Aurora, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vortex generators - long |
Thanks Jerry...I did indeed miss that. Sorry for the confusion....but you
gotta love the way several of you straightened me out. This list is
incredible. Wish I had you guys around for finals week back in college.
:-)
Bill
-4 relieved
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 6:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Vortex generators - long
>
> Bill Shook wrote:
> >
> >
> > One question. You quoted a top speed of 178 with an 0-360 and constant
> > speed? Was that a typo or did I miss something? If that's true, Van's
> > numbers are GROSSLY inaccurate and I thought that wasn't the case.
Van's
> > quotes a 75% cruise speed of 189 with a 150hp engine.....what gives?
> >
> > Bill
> > -4 wings and hoping for a top speed of better than 178....van's numbers
say
> > a cruise of 200 !!
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com>
> > To: "RV List"
> > Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 6:22 PM
> > Subject: RV-List: Vortex generators - long
> >
> > >
> > > Fellow Listers:
> > >
> > > I just came back from a day spent with Larry Vetterman. He flew his
RV-4
> > > from Hot Springs SD and I met him in my -4 in Madison, SD.
> > >
> > > As you know Larry has installed VGs on his -4 and since his -4 is very
> > > similar to mine (180 hp, CS prop, nearly identical empty weights), I
> > wanted
> > > to fly in his airplane and compare to a non-VG equipped RV-4.
> > >
> > > We were at gross weight with the two of us in the airplane. T/O roll
is
> > > very short, even compared to mine which accelerates like a dragster.
> > > Probably less than 300'. We climbed up to altitude and Larry did some
> > slow
> > > flight demos. The airplane is rock solid at an IAS of 40 mph (granted
> > > highly inaccurate at this speed). Aileron control is superb,
certainly
> > more
> > > responsive than mine at this speed. Stall break is pretty much the
same
> > as
> > > mine. I really could not detect any significant difference in top end
> > speed
> > > (Larry says his IAS that day at 9500 ft was 178 mph at full throttle
and
> > > 2400 rpm... same as mine).
> > >
> > > The approach was really about the same although we certainly could fly
a
> > > little slower. But the touchdown speed was slower than mine and we
did
> > use
> > > less runway.
> > >
> > > The most significant difference I noticed was the much improved yaw
> > > stability. In turbulence my RV-4 has a pronounced tail wag. Larry's
had
> > > none. It just bumped along perfectly straight in yaw. It was much
more
> > > comfortable in the back seat than mine for that reason. Larry has no
> > > aerodynamic reason for this improvement (his airplane had the usual RV
yaw
> > > prior to installing the VGs). But whatever the reason, it is greatly
> > > improved in turbulence and would make the VGs worthwhile for that
reason
> > > alone.
> > >
> > > Anyway, I'm not sure if I will install them on my -4 yet, but I am
very
> > > tempted.
> > >
> > > Thought you all might be interested.
> > >
> > > Doug Weiler
> > > MN Wing
> > >
> > >
> >
> Bill I am guessing he quoted indicated speed, his true airspeed is
probably
> much faster than that, at least it is in my 180hp RV-6. Ah I went back and
> read his post and it does say IAS.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Analysis |
>
>Hey Guys,
>
>I need some help from those of you that have sent an oil sample out to be
>analyzed.
> I bought a couple of analysis packets at Sun-n-Fun this year, and when I got
>back home, I changed my oil and sent a sample away per the instructions. This
>is the first time I've ever had my oil analyzed. The engine is a Bart O-320
>with 140 hours on it.
>
>Yesterday, I got a letter from the company with a list of the trace elements
>found in the oil. That's it!! So I'm thinking to myself, where is the
>analysis
>at? Am I supposed to look at these number of about 7 elements and deduce
>something
>from it? I could find nothing else on the sheet to tell me what the numbers
>meant.
>
>Is this what I get for my $25 or is there supposed to be more to it? I would
>have thought that I would at least get one sentence that says "everything
>looks
>normal" or "have a mechanic check out your engine" or something.
>
>Help please.
>
>Randy Pflanzer N417G
>RV-6 Indianapolis
Randy,
I bought my sample kits at Oshkosh & then some more at Sun 'n Fun this
year. They are from Aviation Laboratories in Louisiana - maybe they are
the same as yours.
Both reports include the sentence "Result ** normal sample, send next
sample at the normal interval".
Here are the detailed analysis results at 105 & 150 hrs on a new O-360-A1A:
Tot
Hrs Hrs Oil Hrs/qt Iron Cu Nickel Cr Silver Mag Al Lead Si
Ti Tin Moly
105 43 3 14 25.8 34.4 3.3 5.6 0.0 6.0 7.8
4481 8.4 0.1 2.7 0.2
150 45 2.5 18 20.0 26.8 1.4 3.2 0.0 3.2 5.8
4198 6.1 0.0 1.2 0.1
I would be interested to know how these figures compare with others. All
I can tell is that all the trace element quantities were lower in the
second sample - I hope that's a good thing!
Regards,
Chris Good, http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
West Bend, WI
RV6A-QB N86CG, 185 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Analysis |
I should have guessed that my oil analysis table would get garbled by the
time it reached the list. I've added a link to my web site, in case anyone
would like to see the results more clearly.
Regards,
Chris Good, http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
West Bend, WI
RV6A-QB N86CG, 185 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Awhile back there was a discussion about tail wag with the RV-3's. One list
member said he did a rudder squeeze similar to when squeezing ailerons for heavy
wing conditions. Well I thought my 6A tail wagged a little so I bummed a ride in
another 6A in similar thermal conditions and noted that his tail didn't wag as
much, or so it seemed. So I did the rudder squeeze after a afternoon flight and
went right back up. The difference was amazing. I still have a happy tail but
not quite so ecstatic as it had been before.
Gary Zilik
Rick Caldwell wrote:
>
> Hello All,
>
> I just read Doug W.'s post about VG's & his mention of tail wag. Not too
> long ago I discovered that if I keep pressure on both rudder pedals while in
> the pattern, especially on final, the tail wag is much reduced. You can tell
> I'm slow. I've been flying a little over a yr. & just now figured this out.
> Guess you would call this the "peddle fixed" rudder case. Makes the VS &
> rudder act as one big VS.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Stribling" <bbattery(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gyros Anyone? |
Try Instrument overhaul service of San Diego inc.
1-800-466-OVHL
They also have good prices on attitude ind. and giros and will set the tilt
for you
Ken S. Down to all the little stuff and stuff and.....
> Hi all...
>
> Anybody out there overhaul gyros? I have a DG and AI that I need checked
> out at least, and probably overhauled...
>
> Please contact me off list: bill(at)vondane.com
>
> And... >>
>
> Bill-
>
> Try Jeff Chambliss @ California Gyro in Livermore, CA 925-426-0555.
>
> -GV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rscott(at)involved.com (Richard Scott) |
Chris,
I do oil analysis for the Oregon Air Guard. We only work on jets, but I
have checked samples for my own plane (Interstate Cadet, C-75) and a couple
of other engines. So I can't give you much engine specific info, but that
isn't too important anyway.
The readout looks almost exactly the same way ours do, so they are probably
using a similar spectrometer. Different spectrometers can give SLIGHTLY
different results.
Individually, all the numbers look OK (but see the note about lead, below),
but the trend is the important thing, which means to get useful information,
you need to continue sampling at regular intervals. If a bearing or other
part starts to wear abnormally, you should see a large jump in one or more
elements. With the combination of elements in hand, you can then call
Lycoming and they can probably tell you which parts are made of those
elements.
The numbers are parts per million. The readings of .1 and .2 in titanium
and molydenum are measurement errors and do not represent any real presence
of either of those elements. Some metals, however, are used by refiners to
improve oil performance and may show up in your oil sample even though those
metals were not used in manufacturing your engine. So if you change brands
of oil, you might find something that was zero before.
I presume you use 100LL, which would explain why the lead is so high. If
not, then maybe there is a problem, but I don't know where else lead would
come from. I usually find only a few hundred parts per million of lead, but
I burn 80/87.
Oil analysis looks at the concentrations of metals that disperse in the oil
through wear. It can not predict catastrophic failure-it can't tell you if
your crankshaft is about to break.
To get best results, always sample the oil in the same way. The best is
probably to sample right after running the engine. Surprisingly, even
though we are measuring molecule sized particles, they do settle out, so
mixing the oil in some way for sampling is important. The standards we use
(oil having known concentrations) to check our spectrometer have to be
shaken for a full minute to get proper results, so you can see that thorough
mixing is important.
Si is silicon and represents dirt. Dirt may come from your oil or may have
been in dust in the bottle you put your oil in. These low readings suggest
it was in the oil. But if you get an unexplained jump in silicon, perhaps
your sampling technique contaminated the oil. In F-15's our crew chiefs
have to clean off the tube they get their samples from or we could ground a
jet for high aluminum readings when all they did was sample it carelessly.
So keep things clean. A very small amount of aluminum oxide from the tube
on a quick drain could get you needlessly concerned.
I hope this helps.
Richard Scott
Starting RV-7
Flying 1941 Interstate Cadet
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chris Good
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 5:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Analysis
>
>Hey Guys,
>
>I need some help from those of you that have sent an oil sample out to be
>analyzed.
> I bought a couple of analysis packets at Sun-n-Fun this year, and when I
got
>back home, I changed my oil and sent a sample away per the instructions.
This
>is the first time I've ever had my oil analyzed. The engine is a Bart
O-320
>with 140 hours on it.
>
>Yesterday, I got a letter from the company with a list of the trace
elements
>found in the oil. That's it!! So I'm thinking to myself, where is the
>analysis
>at? Am I supposed to look at these number of about 7 elements and deduce
>something
>from it? I could find nothing else on the sheet to tell me what the
numbers
>meant.
>
>Is this what I get for my $25 or is there supposed to be more to it? I
would
>have thought that I would at least get one sentence that says "everything
>looks
>normal" or "have a mechanic check out your engine" or something.
>
>Help please.
>
>Randy Pflanzer N417G
>RV-6 Indianapolis
Randy,
I bought my sample kits at Oshkosh & then some more at Sun 'n Fun this
year. They are from Aviation Laboratories in Louisiana - maybe they are
the same as yours.
Both reports include the sentence "Result ** normal sample, send next
sample at the normal interval".
Here are the detailed analysis results at 105 & 150 hrs on a new O-360-A1A:
Tot
Hrs Hrs Oil Hrs/qt Iron Cu Nickel Cr Silver Mag Al Lead Si
Ti Tin Moly
105 43 3 14 25.8 34.4 3.3 5.6 0.0 6.0 7.8
4481 8.4 0.1 2.7 0.2
150 45 2.5 18 20.0 26.8 1.4 3.2 0.0 3.2 5.8
4198 6.1 0.0 1.2 0.1
I would be interested to know how these figures compare with others. All
I can tell is that all the trace element quantities were lower in the
second sample - I hope that's a good thing!
Regards,
Chris Good, http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
West Bend, WI
RV6A-QB N86CG, 185 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Start key vs. switch... |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys,
Along the lines of the recent thread on using ignition keys vs. toggle
switch / starter button, I am wondering if anyone knows of a source for a
keyed ignition switch that has only two positions (off / on) that could
be used for the starter only. I don't want to use the standard ignition
switch because I'm planning to use at least one Lightspeed system, so I
want toggles for the mag and Lightspeed. But for the starter I'd like to
have a key instead of just a button for safety reasons previously
discussed.
Obviously the key would have to be robust enough to handle the starter
solenoid current (not sure how much that is?). Most ignition switches
for cars and airplanes have multiple positions so if anyone knows where I
could find something with only two positions please let me know.
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Hi Charlie,
I considered the SuperPak 906 as well when I was looking at power
supplies, but it actually does NOT give you any advantage in a 3 strobe
system. If you look at the specs for this power supply at
http://www.strobe.com/pdfs/spak906-install.pdf it says that heads 1,3
and 5 flash together, heads 2, 4 and 6 flash together, and heads 1,3,5
alternate with 2,4,6. So if you want to only drive 3 strobes you have
more choices in terms of which outlets you populate, but the resulting
power output will be identical to the XPAK 904 that I got. The total
power output is the same (90 W), so the first half of the cycle will put
out 45 W and the second half will put out 45 W. Two of the strobes will
still have to be flashing simultaneously and so each will get 22.5 W.
The third strobe will get the full 45 W.
So the SuperPak 906 will cost a bit more and probably weigh a bit more
but unless you are planning to put five or six strobes on your airplane,
the XPak is a better deal. On the other hand......hmmm, let's
see.....with six strobes, you could make a couple of them blue and red,
have some really cool flash patterns, and start playing "Air Police"...
: )
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"
-------------------------------
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: strobes
Mark,
I didn't read all of your posts carefully enough. After re reading them,
I see
your mention of a link off of Nova's site. You can reach Strobes N' More
directly at:
http://strobeguy.safeshopper.com/index.htm?116
For a few dollars more than the 4 head X-Pac 904 ($159.95) you mention
(see web
page below)
http://strobeguy.safeshopper.com/11/cat11.htm?116
you can purchase the Super Pac 906 ($168.95) 6 head power supply. (see
web page
below)
http://strobeguy.safeshopper.com/10/cat10.htm?116
Since you can then power 3 heads off of this 6 head supply, all 3
strobes can
receive equal power from the supply. (3 X 30 watts [25 joules] per
sequence)
You won't have to diminish the power going to the 2 wingtip strobes as
the X-Pac
904 does (22.5 + 22.5 + 45 watts [18.75 + 18.75 + 37.5 joules per
sequence)
This would seem to be a better unit for those folks who need a 3 strobe
system.
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | d.meloche(at)att.net |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: scoring the angle aluminum - HS-610 |
A .015" deep cut in .063" stock reduces the area in the
affected section 25%. This will increase the stresses by
the same factor (not including stress concentration
effects). Since this part of the stabilizer is highly
loaded (root end) I would replace the part. Anyway by
the time you blended out the cut by a 10/1 ratio you
could have made a new part. Get used to it, you'll be
doing a lot more replacing by the time your done.
Good luck
Doug Meloche
rv6 ordering finish kit
> --> RV6-List message posted by: windsaloft(at)rmisp.com (Terri Watson)
>
> When cutting out the AA6 3/4 x 3/4 angle iron to fabricate the HS-610 for
> the front spar, I let the saw blade drift a bit and got a bit of a score
> across the flange tongue of the aluminum. It is 1-5/16" from the tip, and
> appears to be 1/64" deep, going all the way across. Two rivets would be
> outside this when fastened to the forward spar.
>
> There are a couple of other nicks and scores, mostly scotchbrite-able, from
> clamps, etc.
>
> I am learning lots on this educational project, and am pretty certain that I
> should get another aluminum angle and start again as the score above seems
> like it would focus stress and be the ideal fracture spot for the spar.
> But, I wanted to ask -- how deep is too deep for something like that? If
> you can't smooth it out with scotch brite, is it so deep that it will
> concentrate force and fracture? Is there some rule of thumb of score depth
> vs. bar thickness?
>
> While I am striving for perfection, I am also trying to learn when to sweat
> it and when to not!
>
> Thanks, feel free to reply on or off line.
>
> Terri Watson
> Lander, WY
> RV-6 to 7 fwd spar, HS
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: scoring the angle aluminum - HS-610 |
As previous posters said, the part is critical enough that I would replace
it. Also, order the angle stock from wicks or ACS and get some extra to have
around the shop. Believe me you will use it eventually not just for any
mistakes you might make, but you'll also find that as you near completion you
are having to fabricate a lot of things (i.e. radio stacks, supports for
firewall mounted items, etc.)
Replace it and move on with confidence that it was done right.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (wiring)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Start key vs. switch... |
Mark,
Digi-Key and Allied electronics have these switches. You will have a hard
time finding one to handle the starter solenoid current however. While you
in the same catalogs, by a small normally open 12V relay (about $4) and have
the switch operate the relay, the relay contacts operating the starter
solenoid. This set up opens up a whole range of switch options.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (systems install)
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
czechsix(at)juno.com
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 11:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: Start key vs. switch...
Guys,
Along the lines of the recent thread on using ignition keys vs. toggle
switch / starter button, I am wondering if anyone knows of a source for a
keyed ignition switch that has only two positions (off / on) that could
be used for the starter only. I don't want to use the standard ignition
switch because I'm planning to use at least one Lightspeed system, so I
want toggles for the mag and Lightspeed. But for the starter I'd like to
have a key instead of just a button for safety reasons previously
discussed.
Obviously the key would have to be robust enough to handle the starter
solenoid current (not sure how much that is?). Most ignition switches
for cars and airplanes have multiple positions so if anyone knows where I
could find something with only two positions please let me know.
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mail" <michelboucher594(at)home.com> |
Does anybody have any suggestion where we could find a ring gear for the
O-320 H2AD.
Thanks
Michel
1983 RV3
C-GGRV 1,014 hrs and still hummin'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Start key vs. switch... |
You might want to look at repair parts for electric emergency
generators, specially the bigger rigs, 10kw, 15 kw etc. They do exactly
that AND are designed to be used with hefty starter solenoids.
I was going to do similar thing.....off, on, start....that would be a 3
pos. switch.
Gert
czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
>
>
> Guys,
>
> Along the lines of the recent thread on using ignition keys vs. toggle
> switch / starter button, I am wondering if anyone knows of a source for a
> keyed ignition switch that has only two positions (off / on) that could
> be used for the starter only. I don't want to use the standard ignition
> switch because I'm planning to use at least one Lightspeed system, so I
> want toggles for the mag and Lightspeed. But for the starter I'd like to
> have a key instead of just a button for safety reasons previously
> discussed.
>
> Obviously the key would have to be robust enough to handle the starter
> solenoid current (not sure how much that is?). Most ignition switches
> for cars and airplanes have multiple positions so if anyone knows where I
> could find something with only two positions please let me know.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Hall" <robjhall(at)earthlink.net> |
>
> Does anybody have any suggestion where we could find a ring gear for the
> O-320 H2AD.
>
Try:
BOBBY'S PLANES AND PARTS (BOBBY OSBURN) 940-682-4220 USED AIRCRAFT ENGINES
AND PARTS
He is a good source for O-320 H2AD engines, I got mine from him.
Bob Hall, RV-6
Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Wanted: RV Construction videos |
Wanted used George Orndorff RV Construction Videos:
Aircraft Sheet Metal Tools
Pre-Punched Empennage
E-Mail me directly at bhester(at)apex.net
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/
And see my Rans S12xl experimental aircraft
Updated 9/22/00 - New Look!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Start key vs. switch... |
In a message dated 4/27/01 8:20:23 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
czechsix(at)juno.com writes:
<< I am wondering if anyone knows of a source for a keyed ignition switch
that has only two positions (off / on) that could be used for the starter
only >>
Mark: I got one at a local lock and key shop and had the canopy lock
rekeyed to
use the same key. I haven't made a final decision to use the key switch yet
but that that was my idea at the time. I also found similar keyed two
position switches at a local electronics store and have been told that
boating equipment stores sometimes carry them. Let me know if you can't
locate one in your area.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
http://www.niagaraairparts.com/ may have them.
>
>>
>> Does anybody have any suggestion where we could find a ring gear for the
>> O-320 H2AD.
>>
>
>Try:
>
>BOBBY'S PLANES AND PARTS (BOBBY OSBURN) 940-682-4220 USED AIRCRAFT ENGINES
>AND PARTS
>
>He is a good source for O-320 H2AD engines, I got mine from him.
>
>Bob Hall, RV-6
>Colorado Springs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SixShooters1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | rocket kit for sale |
Listers, I have a rocket qb kit for sale. If you are interested, please
respond off-line. thanks!
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Vortex generators - long |
Who makes a set for the RV's?
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
-----Original Message-----
Anyway, I'm not sure if I will install them on my -4 yet, but I am very
tempted.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Start key vs. switch... |
Then again, you could use Leccy' Bob's book setup and use the switch for
only on-off and use one of the magneto switches as the starter switch
too.
Gert
HCRV6(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 4/27/01 8:20:23 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> czechsix(at)juno.com writes:
>
> << I am wondering if anyone knows of a source for a keyed ignition switch
> that has only two positions (off / on) that could be used for the starter
> only >>
>
> Mark: I got one at a local lock and key shop and had the canopy lock
> rekeyed to
> use the same key. I haven't made a final decision to use the key switch yet
> but that that was my idea at the time. I also found similar keyed two
> position switches at a local electronics store and have been told that
> boating equipment stores sometimes carry them. Let me know if you can't
> locate one in your area.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, finish kit stuff
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | #19 countersink question |
I have just finished installing platenuts for the tank on the spar (both
rows). The plans call for the most aft row (screw holes) to be either dimpled
OR countersunk. I bought from Cleveland a #19 100 degree contersink bit. I
thought I was going to countersink but ended up dimpling (screw holes). The
reason I changed was that the contersink bit made a very very large hole. I
does not seem to give that countersink angle that the smaller bits provide.
IS THIS NORMAL? Yes it holds the #8 screw head, and yes I realize no bigee
being that the nutplate is going to hold the screw. But before I conter that
last row on the tank skin, I want to make sure I am not missing something.
Thanks guys, Bob in Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | close qtr. dimple die |
For those of you that used the Avery close qtr. dimple die to dimple wing
spars, I have on more curious question. After doing that, will not the
platenuts lose some of their self-locking ability? I did this with the inner
most 6 screw holes on both sides.
Anything one would do other than keep an eye on this area when flying?
Bob-last question for a while :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
try Kenny Faeth 1-916-368-1832...he's great!
Mail wrote:
>
> Does anybody have any suggestion where we could find a ring gear for the
> O-320 H2AD.
>
> Thanks
> Michel
> 1983 RV3
> C-GGRV 1,014 hrs and still hummin'
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | close qtr. dimple die |
I'm not sure I understand the question right but think you're concerned that
the platenuts will loose locking ability after you dimple the platenuts
itself with the close quarter dies.
It will be fine. If you're not convinced you should put a phillips bit on
your torque wrench (with an adapter) and see how much torque is required to
screw in the screw before and after dimpling the platenut while you hold the
platenut in a vise. I haven't tried this myself but doubt you'll find a
difference.
Are
RV-8 Wings
Loretto, ON
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
Sent: April 28, 2001 7:08 PM
Subject: RV-List: close qtr. dimple die
For those of you that used the Avery close qtr. dimple die to dimple wing
spars, I have on more curious question. After doing that, will not the
platenuts lose some of their self-locking ability? I did this with the inner
most 6 screw holes on both sides.
Anything one would do other than keep an eye on this area when flying?
Bob-last question for a while :)
________________________________________________________________________________
AIRTECK
in orlando florida makes ring gears for the 122 and 149 tooth paterns for
many lycoming engines,
if you need their number let me know.
scott
tampa rv6a finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: close qtr. dimple die |
Arie, yes I have done so. That is why I am concerned. The platenuts do not
seem to require as MUCH torque the second time after a screw is used. Thanks,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Analysis |
"THE AVIATION CONSUMER", December, 2000 has a review of oil analysis labs.
"LIGHT PLANE MAINTENANCE", October, 2000 has a definitive guide to what
the metal particles in your oil analysis/oil filter means as far as
various types of possible engine damage/wear.
Boyd Braem
N600SS
why do planes need to be constantly rebuilt?
>
>
> In a message dated Fri, 27 Apr 2001 8:58:37 AM Eastern Daylight Time, rpflanze(at)iquest.net
writes:
>
>
> Hey Guys,
>
> I need some help from those of you that have sent an oil sample out to be analyzed.
> I bought a couple of analysis packets at Sun-n-Fun this year, and when I got
> back home, I changed my oil and sent a sample away per the instructions. This
> is the first time I've ever had my oil analyzed. The engine is a Bart O-320
> with 140 hours on it.
>
> Yesterday, I got a letter from the company with a list of the trace elements
> found in the oil. That's it!! So I'm thinking to myself, where is the analysis
> at? Am I supposed to look at these number of about 7 elements and deduce something
> from it? I could find nothing else on the sheet to tell me what the numbers
> meant.
>
> Is this what I get for my $25 or is there supposed to be more to it? I would
> have thought that I would at least get one sentence that says "everything looks
> normal" or "have a mechanic check out your engine" or something.>>
>
> If you went to Howard Fenton at Engine Oil Analysis in Tulsa, OK you would get
commentary in addition to analysis. Howard does oil anaysis of aircraft engines
only and has many years of experience in this field. Contact info is (where
else?) in the Yeller Pages.
> O
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> |
| Subject: | Re: close qtr. dimple die |
>
> For those of you that used the Avery close qtr. dimple die to dimple wing
> spars, I have on more curious question. After doing that, will not the
> platenuts lose some of their self-locking ability? > Bob-last question for
a while :)
>snip
Bob,
I just dedicated one platenut to the dimpling task and in fact ran a tap
through it to make it easier to use.
Stan Blanton
RV-6
stanb(at)door.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | close qtr. dimple die |
Are you using the AN509-8R8 with K1100-08 platenuts? Mine are also a bit
easy (they're not dimpled on the RV-8) but I will definately not have to
worry about them while flying.
Back to the hockey game...
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
Sent: April 28, 2001 8:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: close qtr. dimple die
Arie, yes I have done so. That is why I am concerned. The platenuts do not
seem to require as MUCH torque the second time after a screw is used.
Thanks,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: close qtr. dimple die |
yes same nuts/screw-go pittsburgh!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Hello, I'm a bonehead..nice to meet you |
There is only one group who would completely appreciate the short story I am
about to confess. I'm mounting the aileron on my wing for the first time.
I'm so excited and happy...bouncing around the garage and singing to the
radio. So, I look at the plan and it says the end of the 406 is 1/4 inch
from the end of the last rib. No sweat....I just need the proper spacer.
So, I measure the thickness of the 414 (1/8") and the 406 (1/16") and my
superior math skills come into play...where I figure out I need a 1/16"
spacer in between the 406 and the 414. Hey, that's not going to be
fun....but I can do it. So, I proceed to spend 15 minutes cutting 1/16" off
of a spacer rod and cleaning up the cut with my emery wheel. It is
then...after I've burned my fingers twice holding that rod that I figure out
what I've just made. I just made....an AN washer. Yup, exactly the same
size as the 50 washers I have right in front of me. Damn, I'm good. Toss
the newly built washer in the garbage, put an AN washer where it was
supposed to be in the first place and laugh at myself for my genius. Now
you can all laugh at me too. Hey...you've done worse so just take it easy.
:-)
Ok, so the aileron is on the wing. I'm happy and it's time to break out
that Jamaican rum I've been saving for a good enough reason. I'll celebrate
being a bonehead.....a bonehead with a control surface hanging off a
wing...all of which built by my own hand. Life is good...and so, by the
way, is this rum. :-)
7:30am eastern tomorrow...Formula one. What was it that everyone was
saying about there only being two real contenders? Life is really
good...go Ralfy go.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hello, I'm a bonehead..nice to meet you |
bonehead here many times-nice to meet you too.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Primers (oh no!) |
I'm replying on list even though this has been discussed a lot, since I've
tried multiple systems and can compare them to each other- this isn't to say
that any of these are the best, just that I have a basis for comparison
between them. Some other primer might be better but these are all I've
used, and like others have said you probably don't need to prime most of the
parts anyway.
1) I've used the Tempo zinc chromate cans on alodined parts. Hated it.
Took forever to dry and wasn't very tough. Hexavalent chromium is also one
of the most carcinogen/mutagenic substances you can buy. I wouldn't use
this stuff again even if someone paid me $100 a can to spray it.
2) I've also used the Sherwin-Williams GBP 988 self-etching primer in the
spray cans. No need to etch or alodine, just clean the parts good and spray
it. This stuff is tougher than the Tempo ZC, dries quicker, and doesn't
need alodine first. Very convenient.
3) I've also used Lesonal Self-Etching Primer 072244, a two-part
self-etching epoxy primer made by AKZO-NOBEL. Tougher than the above, and
you don't need to alodine first. Expensive at $135 per 2-gallon kit.
4) And lastly the AKZO primer sold in the Aircraft Spruce catalog (they
only carry one). A two-part epoxy primer, but you need to etch and alodine
first. Incredible stuff, dries almost immediately and is bulletproof tough.
Supposedly Boeing uses it inside its planes. Also expensive, I think $80 or
so for a 2-gallon kit.
Like I said, this should be taken with a grain of salt since I haven't used
any other primers, but if I were to build another RV (a 4-seater, maybe?),
I'd use #4 on every small part that I could alodine without too much
trouble, say everything up to the size of a wing rib. I'd use #3 on the
skins which due to their size are difficult to alodine. And I'd have a
couple cans of #2 handy for when I have a single small part I need to prime
but don't want to mix up a whole batch.
Another piece of advice, I highly recommend, when getting a kit, deburring
all edges and priming parts right out of the box. Just get it all over with
all at once. Probably saves a lot of time. Primer #4 above is also way
harder to scratch than the aluminum itself so the parts won't get scratched.
Sorry if this is beating a dead horse. I'm not trying to advocate any of
these, I just wanted to offer them a comparison.
Matthew
-8A fuse (just out of jig!)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Slgmjg1(at)cs.com
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2001 1:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: (no subject)
I am getting ready to build an RV-7. I was planning on using zinc chromate
for corrosion proofing. Are there any opinions on whether this is the right
thing to use or is there something better? Thanks, Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Primers (oh no!) |
Mathew, you make many good points. I am not trying to get another priming
thread started, but you left out the one that I finally ended up
with-Variprime.
No etch, other than cleaning with some Coleman Lant Fluid. It dries very
quickly and sticks very very well. How it will do over the years? We are
going to have to check back in a 100 yrs. or so. :) Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Primers (oh no!) |
I just read my post again and in reading it. it sounds like I'm advocating
using these primers- I'm not. I posted those opinions in case anyone ever
does an archive search they'll get a pseudo-data point. I guess I should
have made these generic points instead of specific paint comments-
1) some self-etching rattle can primer is nice for the odd part or two
2) alodining skins is a pain (yes, I alodined all my wing skins)
2.5) alodining smaller parts is easy and quick
3) Chromate is hideously toxic, I'm surprised its still legal, avoid avoid
avoid
4) Two-part epoxies are tougher/harder than single-part paints.
5) All of these paints are toxic enough to destroy your liver if you don't
use proper protection- e.g full mask, gloves, long sleeves. Safer to use
them outside, too...
6) I hate painting so much I'm going to try for the polished finish...
Sorry,
Matthew
-8A fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Matthew Gelber
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2001 7:30 PM
Subject: RV-List: RE: Primers (oh no!)
Blah blah blah blah
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Primers (oh no!) |
Good points!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Primers (oh no!) |
> 3) Chromate is hideously toxic, I'm surprised its still legal, avoid avoid
> avoid
Just another data point.....I love the stuff. I find it's fairly tough if
applied correctly and I have a piece of steel sitting out in the weather 75
yards from the salt water in Ormond Beach that I put there over a year
ago....still no rust. I just took that piece of steel off my shop floor,
sprayed the Tempo Chromate on it without prepping it and asked my friend to
leave it sitting out in his back yard (you can hit the sand with a rock from
his house).....just to see how well it took it. Still looks like the day I
sprayed it. The two part epoxy is tougher (I did some parts with that too,
before I decided which to use)...but the tempo isn't exactly fragile...and I
can always just spray it again just before I assemble. The exterior will be
done in epoxy primer and topcoated (base-clear)...but the interior is zinc
chromate....cut my assembly time in half too. The stuff dries FAST....here
in Orlando. Much faster than epoxy.
Like I said...just a datapoint...worth what you paid for it
Bill
-4 wings
master washer fabricator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | deltab(at)erols.com |
Hey, what format is that? I downloaded week 3 (I have 1 & 2
on tape) as a .asf. Win doze media player wouldn't open it.
When I double clicked in my browser, it just opened a window
to show me the binary junk. Not much help.
Bernie C.
Steven DiNieri wrote:
>
>
> To view the rv-8 video try nextelwny.com , I'll be there for a few days.
>
> Steven DiNieri
> Niagara Falls, New York
> RV-6A, P28A-160
>
--
Go Pens!!
Go Pens!!Go Pens!!Go Pens!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | nutplates lost their locking ability |
For those of you that used the Avery close qtr. dimple die to dimple wing
spars, I have a curious question. After doing that, the platenuts seem to
have lost some of their self-locking ability. I did this with the inner most
6 screw holes on both sides. You have to screw in the female die with a screw
into the platenut-all provided from Avery which make a nice dimple.
Anything one would do other than keep an eye on this area when flying? Pehaps
something around the screw like teflon tape, used on refigeration fittings?
If I squeeze the end of the platenut with a pair of pliers the squeeze will
not be hoizontal but vertical, which is the opposite of the way the platenuts
come. I cant get pliers up there due to spar flange strips. Suggestion??
Bob-last question for a while :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <allnumbers01(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Dear eBusiness Professional |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | safety wiring cowl pins |
Hi,
I have to figure out a way to safety the 1/8" Alum cowl pins that are
used on the bottom and back of the lower RV-6 cowl. I have to bend some
loops into them, but I was wondering if the 1/8" Alum pin will hold up
well to that type of bending or if I should get some 1/8 304" stainless
rod to use in its place. Suggestions?
Thanks!
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: safety wiring cowl pins |
3/32 coil pins(steel) might serve you better than 1/8 aluminum.
Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gary francis <bumby31(at)yahoo.com> |
Is the Tempo Zinc Chromate REALLY that toxic if used
properly? I've talked to many old timers that used to
use it regularly with no mask, no gloves...and despite
all, are still with use at a ripe old age. Yet, I I've
also heard horror stories about self etching and two
part primers actually KILLING people when used
improperly(no mask, etc.) Bottom line, aren't hey all
about equally toxic...but we reduce most risks with
safety precautions...any thoughts?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
Ok, I'm a little confused about switches... SPDT, DPDT, 3PDT, C3PO,
AHHHH!!!!!
Where is a good place to get switches? For a simple OFF/ON of say your NAV
lights, is a SPST ok? And what about the switches Nuckolls uses for mags,
one is an OFF/ON and one is an OFF/ON/MOM-ON, where do I get these? I am
also looking for some mini-bat switches for things like map lights...
Thanks...
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage - Finish kit on the way...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon Robertson <gordon(at)safemail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 42 Msgs - 04/28/01 |
As for my $.02, I use the Zinc Oxide from Tempo. Much less toxic, and apparently
works the same. I scrub each part using a scotchbrite pad and Coleman fluid
to degrease and provide a rough surface.
Advantage: Very convenient. Can buy it from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty, you
can prime parts right then, not mix up then clean up the spray gun, etc. I
like the ability to dab a quick prime on countersunk holes etc. before riveting.
Disadvantage: Not very tough, although it gets very much tougher after a few days.
But you can always respray immediately before installing. Biggest disadvantage,
extensively discussed in this list, is CLOGGING. But I have found
the fix! a) always drop your
nozzle into a jar of MEK until you need it again, and b) if the can clogs internally,
remove the nozzle, turn the can upside down and push a sharp object like
a nail into the nozzle end. This will blast out the obstructing material,
usually non-mixed paint solids,
(gets all over your hand, so wear a glove) and clear the clog. Until I discovered
this, I was cursing and throwing away can after can. Now I can use them
all up.
Gordon Robertson
RV8 fuse.
1) I've used the Tempo zinc chromate cans on alodined parts. Hated it.
Took forever to dry and wasn't very tough. Hexavalent chromium is also one
of the most carcinogen/mutagenic substances you can buy. I wouldn't use
this stuff again even if someone paid me $100 a can to spray it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: safety wiring cowl pins |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2001 7:39 AM
Subject: RV-List: safety wiring cowl pins
I was wondering if the 1/8" Alum pin will hold up
> well to that type of bending or if I should get some 1/8 304" stainless
> rod to use in its place. Suggestions?
>
> Thanks!
> -Glenn Gordon
>
> Glen, those Aluminun pins that come inside the 1/8 piano hinge is not
to be used. It is to be replaced with a 1/8 stainless pin. except along the
top
of the cowl, where it is replaced with 3/32 stell pin. Terry B.
________________________________________________________________________________
bill,
<< Ok, I'm a little confused about switches... SPDT, DPDT, 3PDT, C3PO >>
SPDT Single Pole Double Throw
DPDT Double Pole Double Throw
3PDT 3 Poles Double Throw
C3PO cyborg 3rd genertion personal orbitron
radio shack has some lightweight switches that have the schematic of thier
functions on back of the package, a good place to learn how switches work.
keep in mind how many amps these switches must carry. amps is what burns the
switch contact points.
hope this helps
scott
tampa
rv6a finishing, down with a bad back , in bed for 7 days now. ouchhhh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
Look at CK switches available via Digi-Key or Allied electronics. Both have
web sites where you can order a free catalog.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (systems install)
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2001 10:57 AM
Subject: RV-List: Switches?
Ok, I'm a little confused about switches... SPDT, DPDT, 3PDT, C3PO,
AHHHH!!!!!
Where is a good place to get switches? For a simple OFF/ON of say your NAV
lights, is a SPST ok? And what about the switches Nuckolls uses for mags,
one is an OFF/ON and one is an OFF/ON/MOM-ON, where do I get these? I am
also looking for some mini-bat switches for things like map lights...
Thanks...
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage - Finish kit on the way...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Meangreen RV-4 Flys at last... |
That's right Meangreen is no longer a hangar virgin.After 9 years of building
at 7:31 am on 4-28-01 Meangreen left the ground on its maiden flight. I wish
I could bottle and sell the high I was on because I would be richer than Bill
Gates. Here is some of the recorded data:
Stall 55mph full flaps
58mph Clean
Ground speed 180mph @ 156 Indicated
200mph @ 183 " " "
220mph @ 185 " " "
Oil Temp 180 degrees
Oil Pressure 75psi
Fuel Pressure 25psi
Many Thanks to John Harmon for all his help.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Primers(oh no!) |
Be smart/safe-ALWAYS USE A RESPIRATOR!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Tempo rattle cans |
I have used about 7 cans now and I have yet to not get completely all the
paint out without clogging. One thing I always do though is tilt the can
upside down and spray until clear (couple seconds) then wipe the tip with a
rag. Works for me.....your mileage may vary.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon Robertson" <gordon(at)safemail.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2001 11:06 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 42 Msgs - 04/28/01
>
> As for my $.02, I use the Zinc Oxide from Tempo. Much less toxic, and
apparently works the same. I scrub each part using a scotchbrite pad and
Coleman fluid to degrease and provide a rough surface.
>
> Advantage: Very convenient. Can buy it from Aircraft Spruce and
Specialty, you can prime parts right then, not mix up then clean up the
spray gun, etc. I like the ability to dab a quick prime on countersunk
holes etc. before riveting.
>
> Disadvantage: Not very tough, although it gets very much tougher after a
few days. But you can always respray immediately before installing.
Biggest disadvantage, extensively discussed in this list, is CLOGGING. But
I have found the fix! a) always drop your
> nozzle into a jar of MEK until you need it again, and b) if the can clogs
internally, remove the nozzle, turn the can upside down and push a sharp
object like a nail into the nozzle end. This will blast out the
obstructing material, usually non-mixed paint solids,
> (gets all over your hand, so wear a glove) and clear the clog. Until I
discovered this, I was cursing and throwing away can after can. Now I can
use them all up.
>
> Gordon Robertson
> RV8 fuse.
>
>
> 1) I've used the Tempo zinc chromate cans on alodined parts. Hated it.
> Took forever to dry and wasn't very tough. Hexavalent chromium is also
one
> of the most carcinogen/mutagenic substances you can buy. I wouldn't use
> this stuff again even if someone paid me $100 a can to spray it.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: close qtr. dimple die |
In a message dated 4/28/01 4:10:39 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
writes:
<< For those of you that used the Avery close qtr. dimple die to dimple wing
spars, I have on more curious question. After doing that, will not the
platenuts lose some of their self-locking ability? >>
I'm not sure I understand your question Bob, but I used new plate nuts after
making the dimples with the close quarter tool and it's platenut.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: safety wiring cowl pins |
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
> I have to figure out a way to safety the 1/8" Alum cowl pins that are
> used on the bottom and back of the lower RV-6 cowl. I have to bend some
> loops into them, but I was wondering if the 1/8" Alum pin will hold up
> well to that type of bending or if I should get some 1/8 304" stainless
> rod to use in its place. Suggestions?
>
> Thanks!
> -Glenn Gordon
>
You can use stainless welding rod for the pins. To safety
wire them, you can flatten the end & drill for the safety
wire. That's how the top cowl pins on my -4 were done. The
loops would probably be more useful on the lower cowl pins.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Start key vs. switch... |
I don't remember for sure, but I think my first legal car, a $60 '51 chevy
sedan had an ignition switch with which you either locked the ignition so it
needed the key, or unlocked it so that just turning the little projection
that held the key engaged the starter. That might work to lock or leave
unlocked the electrical connection to toggle switches for the mags and a
toggle or push button for the starter, or you could use it as the starter
switch, with or without the key. If I am remembering correctly, all GM
vehicles of about that vintage probably worked the same way.
Terry
> czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> >
> > Guys,
> >
> > Along the lines of the recent thread on using ignition keys vs. toggle
> > switch / starter button, I am wondering if anyone knows of a source for
a
> > keyed ignition switch that has only two positions (off / on) that could
> > be used for the starter only. I don't want to use the standard ignition
> > switch because I'm planning to use at least one Lightspeed system, so I
> > want toggles for the mag and Lightspeed. But for the starter I'd like
to
> > have a key instead of just a button for safety reasons previously
> > discussed.
> >
> > Obviously the key would have to be robust enough to handle the starter
> > solenoid current (not sure how much that is?). Most ignition switches
> > for cars and airplanes have multiple positions so if anyone knows where
I
> > could find something with only two positions please let me know.
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "Flexible Fiberglass" ?? |
Sam Cherroff wrote:
>
>
> Hey listers,
> Does anyone know of a fabric/polymer composite solution that can
> be hand laid, but after curing becomes more like hard rubber than
> stiff fiberglass? I need to make a fairing in a location that will have to
> endure some impact without shattering.
>
> Would laminations of glass cloth with RTV silicone as the liquid
> component work? Is there a two-part version of RTV, instead of the
> air-dry type? Different hardnesses? What does the stuff cost? How
> can it be finshed/painted?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Sam
>
I've read of guys making induction system ducts with
fiberglas & RTV & wondered about using it for gear leg
fairings & such. How about trying some of the new paintable
silicone caulk & let us know how it works? :-)
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Analysis |
OK, at the risk of showing that I know nothing, I think the idea behind oil
sampling is to get a history and track the elements over time. When
something starts to let go it will show up as a sudden increase in the
element. There are many parts that can be identified by the content of the
metal the engine is making. At least that is my understanding after hanging
around CAT dealers. Maybe your local CAT dealer can provide this service for
less cost. Of course the commentary would not be there since they are
"geared up" for Diesel engines.
Marty in Brentwood, TN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2001 6:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Analysis
>
>
> "THE AVIATION CONSUMER", December, 2000 has a review of oil analysis labs.
>
> "LIGHT PLANE MAINTENANCE", October, 2000 has a definitive guide to what
> the metal particles in your oil analysis/oil filter means as far as
> various types of possible engine damage/wear.
>
> Boyd Braem
> N600SS
> why do planes need to be constantly rebuilt?
> >
> >
> > In a message dated Fri, 27 Apr 2001 8:58:37 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
rpflanze(at)iquest.net writes:
> >
> >
> > Hey Guys,
> >
> > I need some help from those of you that have sent an oil sample out to
be analyzed.
> > I bought a couple of analysis packets at Sun-n-Fun this year, and when
I got
> > back home, I changed my oil and sent a sample away per the instructions.
This
> > is the first time I've ever had my oil analyzed. The engine is a Bart
O-320
> > with 140 hours on it.
> >
> > Yesterday, I got a letter from the company with a list of the trace
elements
> > found in the oil. That's it!! So I'm thinking to myself, where is the
analysis
> > at? Am I supposed to look at these number of about 7 elements and
deduce something
> > from it? I could find nothing else on the sheet to tell me what the
numbers
> > meant.
> >
> > Is this what I get for my $25 or is there supposed to be more to it? I
would
> > have thought that I would at least get one sentence that says
"everything looks
> > normal" or "have a mechanic check out your engine" or something.>>
> >
> > If you went to Howard Fenton at Engine Oil Analysis in Tulsa, OK you
would get commentary in addition to analysis. Howard does oil anaysis of
aircraft engines only and has many years of experience in this field.
Contact info is (where else?) in the Yeller Pages.
> > O
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Analysis |
My experience with oil analysis in the '70s on a 235 Cherokee.
We routinely sampled oil at each oil change and sent it to the analyst.
It continued uneventfully for many oil changes. The analyst, whose name
I have since lost, would comment on the source of each element detected
such as bearings, rings, cylinder walls, connecting rods, etc.
Then, one analysis came back with a significant increase in one
combination of elements. Their comments were that we probably had a
cylinder scored by a broken ring. Bore scope examination found the
scored cylinder. The repair required replacement of piston and cylinder.
My conclusion was then to continue the regular analysis and is now, when
my 6A is finished and flying I will start with the first oil change and
continue.
A baseline is needed in order to detect changes. There will probably be
an initial higher level of elements from a new or overhauled engine
during the break-in period decreasing to some steady state. If you have
and engine with no oil analysis history, a few analyses will establish a
baseline. Large changes after from the baseline will result from
increased wear or deteriorating parts. An analyst with experience in
your type of engine should be able to suggest the reason(s) for
increases in specific elements. That will help to diagnose or anticipate
problems.
RHDudley
6A fuselage
Emrath wrote:
>
>
> OK, at the risk of showing that I know nothing, I think the idea behind oil
> sampling is to get a history and track the elements over time. When
> something starts to let go it will show up as a sudden increase in the
> element. There are many parts that can be identified by the content of the
> metal the engine is making. At least that is my understanding after hanging
> around CAT dealers. Maybe your local CAT dealer can provide this service for
> less cost. Of course the commentary would not be there since they are
> "geared up" for Diesel engines.
>
> Marty in Brentwood, TN
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2001 6:54 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Analysis
>
> >
> >
> > "THE AVIATION CONSUMER", December, 2000 has a review of oil analysis labs.
> >
> > "LIGHT PLANE MAINTENANCE", October, 2000 has a definitive guide to what
> > the metal particles in your oil analysis/oil filter means as far as
> > various types of possible engine damage/wear.
> >
> > Boyd Braem
> > N600SS
> > why do planes need to be constantly rebuilt?
> > >
> > >
> > > In a message dated Fri, 27 Apr 2001 8:58:37 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> rpflanze(at)iquest.net writes:
> > >
> > >
> > > Hey Guys,
> > >
> > > I need some help from those of you that have sent an oil sample out to
> be analyzed.
> > > I bought a couple of analysis packets at Sun-n-Fun this year, and when
> I got
> > > back home, I changed my oil and sent a sample away per the instructions.
> This
> > > is the first time I've ever had my oil analyzed. The engine is a Bart
> O-320
> > > with 140 hours on it.
> > >
> > > Yesterday, I got a letter from the company with a list of the trace
> elements
> > > found in the oil. That's it!! So I'm thinking to myself, where is the
> analysis
> > > at? Am I supposed to look at these number of about 7 elements and
> deduce something
> > > from it? I could find nothing else on the sheet to tell me what the
> numbers
> > > meant.
> > >
> > > Is this what I get for my $25 or is there supposed to be more to it? I
> would
> > > have thought that I would at least get one sentence that says
> "everything looks
> > > normal" or "have a mechanic check out your engine" or something.>>
> > >
> > > If you went to Howard Fenton at Engine Oil Analysis in Tulsa, OK you
> would get commentary in addition to analysis. Howard does oil anaysis of
> aircraft engines only and has many years of experience in this field.
> Contact info is (where else?) in the Yeller Pages.
> > > O
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: "Flexible Fiberglass" ?? |
In a message dated 4/29/01 6:00:41 PM, cengland(at)netdoor.com writes:
>> Hey listers,
>> Does anyone know of a fabric/polymer composite solution that can
>> be hand laid, but after curing becomes more like hard rubber than
>> stiff fiberglass? I need to make a fairing in a location that will have
>to
>> endure some impact without shattering.
>>
>> Would laminations of glass cloth with RTV silicone as the liquid
>> component work? Is there a two-part version of RTV, instead of the
>> air-dry type? Different hardnesses? What does the stuff cost? How
>> can it be finshed/painted?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> --Sam
>>
>
>I've read of guys making induction system ducts with
>fiberglas & RTV & wondered about using it for gear leg
>fairings & such. How about trying some of the new paintable
>silicone caulk & let us know how it works? :-)
>
Have you thought about trying Pro- seal?
Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Cherroff" <sam(at)videoassist.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "Flexible Fiberglass" ?? |
>
> I've read of guys making induction system ducts with
> fiberglas & RTV & wondered about using it for gear leg
> fairings & such. How about trying some of the new paintable
> silicone caulk & let us know how it works? :-)
>
>
I sure wish there was something a little less nasty than MEK to use
as a silicone thinner!!! About three years ago I was using a lot of that
stuff (and probably not being as careful as I could have been) and
managed to give myself a case of eczema on my hands that is only
now going away.
Always wear gloves when you are handling invasive solvents!!!
... and use milder ones if they are available.
--Sam
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: "Flexible Fiberglass" ?? |
There is a poyerster based glazing putty that is used for repairing rubber
bumpers. It is called "Poly-flex". Let me know if you need more info.
-Glenn Gordon
----- Original Message -----
From: <Im7shannon(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2001 10:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: "Flexible Fiberglass" ??
>
>
> In a message dated 4/29/01 6:00:41 PM, cengland(at)netdoor.com writes:
>
> >> Hey listers,
> >> Does anyone know of a fabric/polymer composite solution that can
> >> be hand laid, but after curing becomes more like hard rubber than
> >> stiff fiberglass? I need to make a fairing in a location that will
have
> >to
> >> endure some impact without shattering.
> >>
> >> Would laminations of glass cloth with RTV silicone as the liquid
> >> component work? Is there a two-part version of RTV, instead of the
> >> air-dry type? Different hardnesses? What does the stuff cost? How
> >> can it be finshed/painted?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> --Sam
> >>
> >
> >I've read of guys making induction system ducts with
> >fiberglas & RTV & wondered about using it for gear leg
> >fairings & such. How about trying some of the new paintable
> >silicone caulk & let us know how it works? :-)
> >
> Have you thought about trying Pro- seal?
> Kevin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Meangreen RV-4 Flys at last... |
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Finishing F/G fairings)
Niantic, CT (Westerly airport)
>From: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Meangreen RV-4 Flys at last...
>Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 13:28:35 EDT
>
>
>That's right Meangreen is no longer a hangar virgin.After 9 years of
>building
>at 7:31 am on 4-28-01 Meangreen left the ground on its maiden flight. I
>wish
>I could bottle and sell the high I was on because I would be richer than
>Bill
>Gates. Here is some of the recorded data:
>
>Stall 55mph full flaps
> 58mph Clean
>
>Ground speed 180mph @ 156 Indicated
> 200mph @ 183 " " "
> 220mph @ 185 " " "
>
>Oil Temp 180 degrees
>Oil Pressure 75psi
>Fuel Pressure 25psi
>
>Many Thanks to John Harmon for all his help.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Typical Manifold Pressures |
--- "Jones, Bryan D." <bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com> wrote:
>
> Let me rephrase my question - what drop in manifold pressure can be
> expected
> through the Van's stock filter air box. I believe I may be having an
> excessive drop and was wondering what was typical. For example, I've
> seen
> 29" before startup. Then at full throttle and little airspeed
> (takeoff),
> I'm seeing 25 or 26". This seems like a lot of loss. Anyone have
> experience with a bypass around the filter? How about new and
> improved
> filter elements (bigger, better)?
>
> Bryan Jones -8 765BJ
> Pearland, Texas
>
Brian:
I think I made a post several years ago about one test I did at 10,000.
I slowed to MCA just above stall. I went to full throttle and read
manifold pressure. Maintaining level flight, I accelerated till speed
stabilized. Manifold pressure was then recorded. I do not remember
what the actual manifold pressure was (I think about 20" and then
20.5") but I do remember that I had one-half inch more manifold
pressure at speed. This was at 10,000 feet MSL.
Your request go me thinking about trying what you suggested. I flew
chase for the first Flight of John Allen RV-6A N602JA on Sunday. I had
planned on taking the readings during one of the take-offs but kept
forgetting. When I returned home to Cable (CCB) I conducted your test.
Here is the data that my observer on board recorded:
29 April 2001
1600 local time (2300 Z)
29.97
25 C
1,440 field elevation
Taxi back for take-off.
Idle 1040 RPM 10" MP
Pull on to runway, advance throttle to full open.
27.3" MP
Lift off
27.7" MP
End of runway climbing at 80 KIAS
27.9" MP
Landed put the airplane away.
Got ready to leave and saw the data. Missing data point of MP with
engine off.
1730 Local (0030 Z)
Recored MP with engine shut off.
28.4" MP
Hope this helps with the info you are looking for. I read the data
that there is very little loss through the filter. The divergent duct
air filter box converts ram air to an increase in manifold pressure
over static. There is more loss in the filter at static than I thought
there was. One test on one airplane is not enough data to draw a
statical analysis.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
788+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Remaining and engine out glides |
Item 1
Returning from Sun N Fun, I experienced a situation that relates to this
thread. I won't go through the entire story, but I strongly recommend
adding the following steps to your test flight routine - run your tanks dry
(individually, at altitude and with plenty in the remaining tank of course)
and know the characteristics of the system with this low level tank
situation.
I did much of what was described previously as far as filling the new tanks
with measured quantities of fuel and checking the gauges - but... when your
motoring along and the fuel gauges begin to drop and respond a little
differently than you expect - and you're beyond the point of return between
fuel stops (over a bunch of really tall pine trees!), it would be very
helpful to know exactly how long the engine will run (at cruise, max
endurance, or whatever) when the gauge shows 20, 10, 5% and ZERO!, etc.
As it turned out, we landed with almost 45 minutes of reserve (based upon
what we put back in the tanks), but it was beginning to get a little
unnerving looking for that airport as the gauges began dropping quicker than
expected.
Item 2
For engine out glides, I learned something this last weekend regarding
descents at no or very low power settings with a constant speed prop. With
the engine out or idling, pull the prop full coarse/low rpm. The increase
in gliding distance is tremendous. If the engine is rotating, it'll be
developing oil pressure and the prop will respond. Just be careful when
reapplying power - high rpm first! This may be obvious to some, but it was
very impressive to me when I tried it for the first time.
hope this info helps
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Meangreen RV-4 Flys at last... |
Congratulations! You lucky son of a Green!
I hope to be writing my first flight note in the not too distant future...
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com [mailto:MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2001 10:29 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Meangreen RV-4 Flys at last...
That's right Meangreen is no longer a hangar virgin.After 9
years of building
at 7:31 am on 4-28-01 Meangreen left the ground on its
maiden flight. I wish
I could bottle and sell the high I was on because I would be
richer than Bill
Gates. Here is some of the recorded data:
Stall 55mph full flaps
58mph Clean
Ground speed 180mph @ 156 Indicated
200mph @ 183 " " "
220mph @ 185 " " "
Oil Temp 180 degrees
Oil Pressure 75psi
Fuel Pressure 25psi
Many Thanks to John Harmon for all his help.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "skybolt-aviator" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
For anyone looking for engine,JB Aircraft Service @ Sebring has 160hp Lyc
O-320 D3G that was made up for a RV and then the fellow 180 and didn't take
it.This is a good shop that I have no interestin except I was there to
observe some work and told them I would put it on the list
Call them @ 863 655 5000
Ollie&Lorene Washburn
RV6-A,N795LW,@FD77.
O-360,180HP,C/S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: House of Kolor question |
If you're going to vent the booth with a fan, then you'll have to have a rigid
frame for the booth (a box) since the plastic "curtain" will just blow out or
suck in depending on whether the fan pushes or pulls the air. I used 2x4's and
stapled the plastic to it.
Dave, flying in SoCal
barry pote wrote:
>
> CW, you are right. I forgot that. Over spray in the air should be
> vacated from the booth, before it falls into the paint job. Some people
> used airconditioning filters to clean the air....
>
> He also gave a nice idea on a paint booth. 'Make a rectangle of PVC'.
> Hang the plastic from it. Pull the PVC pipe rectangle to the ceiling.
> Tape the plastic walls to it. You can roll up the 'walls' when not in
> use and store your paint booth on the ceiling between uses....
>
________________________________________________________________________________
After reading the various responses to the oil analysis issue, I thought I'd
throw my hat into the ring. I have a small business in which I perform
reliability consulting and full service lube oil analysis.
Full service means I collect the samples and supply the interpretation -
verbally if necessary and graphical/tabular written reports. Most of my
11-years of experience has been in the industrial arena, however in 1999 I
branched out into the aviation world.
Anyone interested or having questions can reach me at rii(at)pdq.net. I can
tailor the service to meet most circumstances.
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ
Reliability Innovations Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Primers(oh no!) |
The NAPA stores carry a gray self-etching primer in a spray can that I've
had good success with, sticks quite well and I'm able to use the complete
can with out clogging the tip (so far). I've used about 5 cans of the stuff
although I mainly use PPG epoxy primer.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
Working on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Primers(oh no!) |
I haven't heard anyone mention SEM Self Etching Primer. I've been using it
and can't see anything wrong with it. Has all the good attributes desired.
It needs to be used in a well ventilated area however, or with a mask. I'm
on my third case (RV9A tail and wings done!). By it by the case and ask the
auto body supplier for the case discount. You should get it for around
$7.50 a can. If you don't, go to the next supplier. One supplier here in
town sells it to me for $7.13 a can by the case.
Chuck Weyant
----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 8:30 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Primers(oh no!)
>
> The NAPA stores carry a gray self-etching primer in a spray can that I've
> had good success with, sticks quite well and I'm able to use the complete
> can with out clogging the tip (so far). I've used about 5 cans of the
stuff
> although I mainly use PPG epoxy primer.
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
> RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
> Working on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Fwd: [SoCAL-RVlist] The airplane finally flies |
--- John Allen wrote:
> Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 10:53:21 -0700
> Subject: [SoCAL-RVlist] The airplane finally flies
>
> My RV N602JA took its first flight on Sunday.
>
> Dennis Ashby, with Gary Sobek and Bob Bohn flying chase, flew the
> initial
> test flight. Take-off was at 12:30 pm from El Monte and the flight
> proceeded
> to Apple Valley per the operating limitations. After determining the
> airplane performed satisfactorily, and once over the test area,
> Dennis
> proceeded to execute some performance tests (stalls) and minimal
> aerobatics
> (aileron roll) to determine its handling characteristics.
>
> The airplane flew beautifully through its maiden flight. Cylinder
> break
> in on the factory new cylinders occurred after about 5 minutes. The
> airplane flew hands-off in its roll axis, with only a half ball yaw
> in cruise. All systems worked properly. The airplane exhibited no
> adverse
> operating characteristics, and the squawk list is very short.
>
> There are no words to describe the feeling of watching your 8-year
> project
> lift into the air and to have it perform so well.
>
> After the initial flight I flew the airplane for approximately 4
> hours.
> Gary Barta flew in formation for much of that period with his
> Mooney.
> We were flying over the Mojave Desert at 8,500 ft at 150Kts true
> (173
> mph) and 2400 RPM. The sun was shining, the visibility was
> unlimited,
> and big fan out front just kept turning. Its a wonderful thing to
> own
> an airplane.
>
> Special thanks to my wife Bernadette. For 8 years she has let me
> open
> the spigot to the family savings and spend endless hours with my
> aluminum
> mistress. Those hours belonged to her and to the kids and they gave
> them back ungrudgingly. Where do you find a woman like that?
>
> John Allen
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> socal-rvlist-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com
Another successful first flight. Dennis Ashby is a repeat RV builder
and professional pilot. This is the 6th or 7th RV that he made first
flight on. Dennis reported that this one flew the best on the first
flight of all the others that he test flew.
The airplane did fly hands off. We took a photo of this. If it tunrs
out, I will post it to the SoCAL RV web site.
Congradulations John.
To all the builders, keep pounding those rivets. The finished product
is worth it.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
788+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Fwd: [SoCAL-RVlist] The airplane finally flies |
> --- John Allen wrote:
> Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 10:53:21 -0700
> Subject: [SoCAL-RVlist] The airplane finally flies
>
> My RV N602JA took its first flight on Sunday.
>
> Dennis Ashby, with Gary Sobek and Bob Bohn flying chase, flew the >
initial
> test flight. Take-off was at 12:30 pm from El Monte and the flight
> proceeded
> to Apple Valley per the operating limitations. After determining the
> airplane performed satisfactorily, and once over the test area,
Dennis
> proceeded to execute some performance tests (stalls) and minimal
> aerobatics
> (aileron roll) to determine its handling characteristics.
>
> The airplane flew beautifully through its maiden flight. Cylinder
> break
> in on the factory new cylinders occurred after about 5 minutes. The
> airplane flew hands-off in its roll axis, with only a half ball yaw
> in cruise. All systems worked properly. The airplane exhibited no >
adverse
> operating characteristics, and the squawk list is very short.
>
> There are no words to describe the feeling of watching your 8-year >
project
> lift into the air and to have it perform so well.
>
> After the initial flight I flew the airplane for approximately 4 >
hours.
> Gary Barta flew in formation for much of that period with his Mooney.
> We were flying over the Mojave Desert at 8,500 ft at 150Kts true (173
> mph) and 2400 RPM. The sun was shining, the visibility was
unlimited,
> and big fan out front just kept turning. Its a wonderful thing to
own
> an airplane.
>
> Special thanks to my wife Bernadette. For 8 years she has let me
open
> the spigot to the family savings and spend endless hours with my >
aluminum
> mistress. Those hours belonged to her and to the kids and they gave
> them back ungrudgingly. Where do you find a woman like that?
>
> John Allen
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> socal-rvlist-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com
Another successful first flight. Dennis Ashby is a repeat RV builder
and professional pilot. This is the 6th or 7th RV that he made first
flight on. Dennis reported that this one flew the best on the first
flight of all the others that he test flew.
The airplane did fly hands off. We took a photo of this. If it
tunrs out, I will post it to the SoCAL RV web site.
Congradulations John.
To all the builders, keep pounding those rivets. The finished
product is worth it.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
788+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Aircraft Insurance Increase |
Well, just got my premium increase from AVEMCO and it is up 23% over last
year. Anyone else finding similar increases in their insurance?? Maybe
more important, is anyone with a company where the increase is not so
unreasonable. At this rate of increase the premium will doubled in less
than 5 years time.
Ed Anderson
Matthews, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Insurance Increase |
In a message dated 4/30/2001 5:09:26 PM Central Daylight Time,
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com writes:
> Well, just got my premium increase from AVEMCO and it is up 23% over last
> year. Anyone else finding similar increases in their insurance?? Maybe
> more important, is anyone with a company where the increase is not so
> unreasonable. At this rate of increase the premium will doubled in less
> than 5 years time.
>
> Ed Anderson
> Matthews, NC
Standard increase in the industry this year is around 20% so your not out of
line.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Insurance Increase |
Try Skysmith for a quote. They are in the yeller pages.
John Henley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Hunt" <robinrmh(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Aircraft Insurance Increase |
try sky smith 515/289-1439 e-mail ins(at)skysmith.com
Robin Hunt
Decatur, AL
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 4:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: Aircraft Insurance Increase
Well, just got my premium increase from AVEMCO and it is up 23% over last
year. Anyone else finding similar increases in their insurance?? Maybe
more important, is anyone with a company where the increase is not so
unreasonable. At this rate of increase the premium will doubled in less
than 5 years time.
Ed Anderson
Matthews, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
Just checking to see if I can post to the list after a change
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/
And see my Rans S12xl experimental aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Insurance Increase |
My Avemco policy also went up about 25%, so it was goodbye Avemco and hello
to the Nationwide Van-guard policy. This year's premium is now actually less
than last year's bill for double the coverage amount.
There were also some issues about the Avemco policy's fine print which
drastically reduced coverage of passengers in your plane, (vs. people on the
ground) and then cut it even more if those passengers were family members.
Check the max limit per person vs. the max limit per passenger provisions in
your policy. You want it to read "per person" without reference to whether
that person is a passenger or someone else on the ground.
Andy
> Well, just got my premium increase from AVEMCO and it is up 23% over last
> year. Anyone else finding similar increases in their insurance??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KRAMEFISH(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 QB Kit For Sale |
Give me an idea oh what you are asking for your RV8 QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Insurance Increase |
>
>Well, just got my premium increase from AVEMCO and it is up 23% over last
>year. Anyone else finding similar increases in their insurance?? Maybe
>more important, is anyone with a company where the increase is not so
>unreasonable. At this rate of increase the premium will doubled in less
>than 5 years time.
>
>Ed Anderson
>Matthews, NC
Ouch! That's ridiculous. I paid for my second year of full coverage last
December, and the rate went DOWN. I insure through Nationair's Vanguard
program.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: [SoCAL-RVlist] The airplane finally flies |
In a message dated 4/30/01 11:33:00 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv6flier(at)yahoo.com writes:
>
> --- John Allen wrote:
> > Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 10:53:21 -0700
> > Subject: [SoCAL-RVlist] The airplane finally flies
> >
> > My RV N602JA took its first flight on Sunday.
>
I know better than anyone how you feel because my RV-4 flew on
Saturday....Congrats, Job Well Done.....
Tim Barnes
N39TB
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Shortening oil filler |
I emailed Bart LeBlonde with this problem earlier and he said it's fairly
common. My oil filler neck sticks out my oil access door on my -4 cowling.
He said a lot of guys just cut it and put it back together with some rubber
tubing, oh, and shorten the dipstick too. Anybody want to email me a brief
description of how they did it? I was thinking, rubber hose and SS clamps,
any better ideas out there?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Insurance Increase |
Is the 23% or so an increase in hull coverage, liability, or both?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Bowling Green, KY - RV Builders? |
Are any of the Bowling Green, KY - RV builders on the list? I'd like to
talk with you.
Hopeing to start building a RV7A soon :-)
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/
And see my Rans S12xl experimental aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Insurance Increase |
AOPA has been treating me fairly.
Anh
-6
N985VU
Maryland
At 11:11 PM 04/30/2001, you wrote:
>
>
>>
>>Well, just got my premium increase from AVEMCO and it is up 23% over last
>>year. Anyone else finding similar increases in their insurance?? Maybe
>>more important, is anyone with a company where the increase is not so
>>unreasonable. At this rate of increase the premium will doubled in less
>>than 5 years time.
>>
>>Ed Anderson
>>Matthews, NC
>
>Ouch! That's ridiculous. I paid for my second year of full coverage last
>December, and the rate went DOWN. I insure through Nationair's Vanguard
>program.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Insurance Increase |
In a message dated 4/30/2001 6:16:00 PM Central Daylight Time,
akroguy(at)hotmail.com writes:
> Ouch! That's ridiculous. I paid for my second year of full coverage last
> December, and the rate went DOWN. I insure through Nationair's Vanguard
> program.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
Brian,
It should go down in the second year if this is your first rv do to time in
type etc etc etc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Insurance Increase |
In a message dated Mon, 30 Apr 2001 6:09:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Ed Anderson"
writes:
Well, just got my premium increase from AVEMCO and it is up 23% over last
year. Anyone else finding similar increases in their insurance?? Maybe
more important, is anyone with a company where the increase is not so
unreasonable. At this rate of increase the premium will doubled in less
than 5 years time.>>
This year Chaparral beat out Falcon with my AIG policy. No increase full coverage.
I was with Falcon for two years.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6A N602JA First Flight Photos |
A few photos of John Allen's RV-6A N602JA on its first flight can be
found at:
http://members3.clubphoto.com/socal230330/N602JA_First_Flight/
Photos were taken by Trish Russell from RV-6 N157GS.
Enjoy.
Feel free to download for use on the World Wide Wing or the RVATOR.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
788+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Here's a list of allegedly bigger salvage yards that have websites:
Westcan in Kamloops BC
http://www.westcanaircraft.com/index.html
Upper Valley Aviation in Chilliwack BC
http://www.uppervalleyaviation.com/
Global Aircraft Industries
http://www.globalparts.com/index.html
Discount Aircraft Salvage in Deer Park Washington
http://www.discountaircraftsalvage.com/
I'm now looking for the bigger yards from all over the States. Can anyone
supply some more links?
Thank-you,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Salvage Yards |
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm check here and your will find
many salvage yards.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 9:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: Salvage Yards
>
> Here's a list of allegedly bigger salvage yards that have websites:
>
> Westcan in Kamloops BC
> http://www.westcanaircraft.com/index.html
>
> Upper Valley Aviation in Chilliwack BC
> http://www.uppervalleyaviation.com/
>
> Global Aircraft Industries
> http://www.globalparts.com/index.html
>
> Discount Aircraft Salvage in Deer Park Washington
> http://www.discountaircraftsalvage.com/
>
>
> I'm now looking for the bigger yards from all over the States. Can anyone
> supply some more links?
>
> Thank-you,
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Stuck Slip-Joint on Exhaust System |
I had the cowl off today to inspect and make a few tweaks. While going over
things, I noticed that one of the slip joints in my exhaust system was
frozen. Some penetrating oil, and a bit of manipulation, and it unfroze.
It probably rusted because of excess exposure to dihydrogen monoxide during
under cowl cleaning.
In any case, what can I do (other than not get the exhaust wet) to prevent
this from happening again? Will anti-sieze help, or will it just burn off?
Thanks,
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PlaneWizz(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Summer flying events |
In a message dated 4/30/2001 9:55:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jkitz(at)greenapple.com writes:
> http://www.dot.state.oh.us/aviation
John:
Thanks for the Ohio webb site. I copied the event list .
I live in Michigan, but frequently travel Northern Ohio.
Dave Pohl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lkyswede(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Summer flying events |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Com Antenna Placement |
I've got a Bob Archer com antenna in one wing tip connected to a Bob Archer
splitter then serving two com radios. I want to try this uncertified method
to eliminate external antennas. I've heard enough good reports on his
products to be satisfied. However, I would like to run RG-400 from the stack
to under the seats in case it isn't good enough. I want to make it quick and
easy to add a com ant. Is this the best spot in a RV6A? Who is happy with
his com ant below the belly?
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
My thanks to all who responded to my question concerning rate increases and
who offered alternatives. I will now go explore some of those alternatives.
Ed Anderson
Matthews, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <davidrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Aircraft Insurance Increase |
Just renewed by policy with Skysmith for $1208, $70,000 hull coverage, same
as last year. I used Avemco the first year, then changed when they increased
the premium 30%.
Dave Hudgins
RV-6A (For Sale)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 4:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: Aircraft Insurance Increase
Well, just got my premium increase from AVEMCO and it is up 23% over last
year. Anyone else finding similar increases in their insurance?? Maybe
more important, is anyone with a company where the increase is not so
unreasonable. At this rate of increase the premium will doubled in less
than 5 years time.
Ed Anderson
Matthews, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Com Antenna Placement |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 4/30/01 23:43, Norman Hunger at nhunger(at)sprint.ca wrote:
>
> I've got a Bob Archer com antenna in one wing tip connected to a Bob Archer
> splitter then serving two com radios. I want to try this uncertified method
> to eliminate external antennas. I've heard enough good reports on his
> products to be satisfied. However, I would like to run RG-400 from the stack
> to under the seats in case it isn't good enough. I want to make it quick and
> easy to add a com ant. Is this the best spot in a RV6A? Who is happy with
> his com ant below the belly?
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
>
>
I am
DLW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stuck Slip-Joint on Exhaust System |
>>
>I had the cowl off today to inspect and make a few tweaks. While going
>over
>things, I noticed that one of the slip joints in my exhaust system was
>frozen. Some penetrating oil, and a bit of manipulation, and it unfroze.
>
>It probably rusted because of excess exposure to dihydrogen monoxide during
>under cowl cleaning.
>
>In any case, what can I do (other than not get the exhaust wet) to prevent
>this from happening again? Will anti-sieze help, or will it just burn off?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
>RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
Kyle,
I had the same experience last December when I had to pull cylinder #1 for
repair. The slip joint in front of the oil sump was stuck. I sprayed some
WD-40 into it and it broke free. I had to pull cylinder #2 last weekend,
and the joint came apart without needing more WD. I guess that first shot
of lube did the trick.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
My kingdom for a turbine!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shouldn't Be Allowed ?? |
>
>Hey Austin,
>
>The sword cuts both ways ya know. What do they really have to say that is
>of interest to you. Know what I mean? I'm a gear head from way back but if
>it does not fly, it all seems so dull and utilitarian now. Maybe there is
>such a thing as an RV snob??? I spend all day and night thinking about RV's
>and loops and rolls and panel toys. Then when I hear the average joe
>spouting off about something, I know this sounds bad, but I can't help but
>feel sorry for him being all exited about something so mundaine as a souped
>up grocery getter. I literally find myself avoiding conversations with
>non-builders. Their earthbound minds cannot grasp my desires and passions
>and they always say something like, "how do you know it will fly?" Why is
>it so small?" Blah blah. The very best you can hope for from a ground
>pounder is a simple "Neat". I mean, I never go up to the average Joe and
>say "dude, how can you be a spectator of life and let the remote control
>dictate who you are that day? Don't you ever want to look back and see some
>kind of accomplishment?"
>
>Face it gang, we're a cult. Do you know the difference between a cult and a
>religion? Public acceptance. We are about as close to being accepted by the
>general public as a cult of gypsy O.J. Simpson worshipers. Well, so be it.
>The sooner we all come to the realization that we will always be viewed by
>our neighbors as the wacko plane builder, the better off we'll be. I will
>continue to avoid conversations with non-builders (this includes spam
>pilots) that will lead to disclosing my unusual level of confidence in my
>own abilities. Ya know, if it weren't for the rest of you cultist, I just
>really wouldn't have much use for humanity at all.
>
>Now everyone put on your new Nike's and grab some Cool-Aid.
>
>Eric Henson
>
VERRRRY well stated, Eric. It's just about impossible for the typical
ground pounder who has never felt the exhilaration of personal flight, to
understand WHY we do what we do. I tend to offer the same reply to their
questions as my Harley riding friends when asked the same thing: "if I have
to explain, you won't understand anyway".
If we're a cult, then we're a bunch of the best behaved wackos on the
planet! Hey, this reminds me, an upcoming RV "cult" gathering is being held
in WACO, Texas, ya know. Hmmmmm.....
Bar B Que anyone?? hehehe..
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Kool-Aid fueled with Nike scuffs on my rudder pedals.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Moore" <robm440(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Start key vs. switch... |
I purchased a 2 position switch from West Marine. Quality was good but
heavy. I was using it in my boat.
Rob
>From: czechsix(at)juno.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Start key vs. switch...
>Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 22:17:35 -0500
>
>
>Guys,
>
>Along the lines of the recent thread on using ignition keys vs. toggle
>switch / starter button, I am wondering if anyone knows of a source for a
>keyed ignition switch that has only two positions (off / on) that could
>be used for the starter only. I don't want to use the standard ignition
>switch because I'm planning to use at least one Lightspeed system, so I
>want toggles for the mag and Lightspeed. But for the starter I'd like to
>have a key instead of just a button for safety reasons previously
>discussed.
>
>Obviously the key would have to be robust enough to handle the starter
>solenoid current (not sure how much that is?). Most ignition switches
>for cars and airplanes have multiple positions so if anyone knows where I
>could find something with only two positions please let me know.
>
>Thanks,
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Com Antenna Placement |
Norman Hunger wrote:
>
> I've got a Bob Archer com antenna in one wing tip connected to a Bob Archer
> splitter then serving two com radios. I want to try this uncertified method
> to eliminate external antennas. I've heard enough good reports on his
> products to be satisfied. However, I would like to run RG-400 from the stack
> to under the seats in case it isn't good enough. I want to make it quick and
> easy to add a com ant. Is this the best spot in a RV6A? Who is happy with
> his com ant below the belly?
>
>
I have mine mounted on the belly right behind the rear spar attatch bulkhead.
Works great on the ground and in the air.
--
Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado
RV-6A N99PZ Flying
Engine: Aerosport Power O-360-A1A
Prop: Sensenich 72FM8S9-1-83
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Com Antenna Placement |
> I have mine mounted on the belly right behind the rear spar attatch
bulkhead.
> Works great on the ground and in the air.
Good news, thanks everybody, I'm going to run a line down there for future
hook up if I need it......Norman........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Listers,
Well, the diagnosis came back from Gibson Aviation on my SECOND failed O-360
jug: cracked.
This is cylinder #2, and #1 was replaced last December with the same
problem.
Anyone out there had similar experiences with the front cylinders in an RV?
I'm now thinking I need to add CHT probes to all four cylinders instead of
just the (supposedly) hottest cyliner #3. I wonder if operating
technique...too lean, too rich, too hot, too cold, too fast, too
slow...whatever...is killing off these things? I try to lean to best
operating smoothness in cruise flight and plan my descents to allow gradual
power reduction. Maybe it's the occasional aerobatics with all the
associated throttle jockeying (fixed pitch prop) that goes along with it.
Hell, who knows.
The engine now has about 500 hours SMOH, and I have no idea what the history
is on the original cylinders. They are chrome, so they are not new...but
just HOW old they actually are is a mystery.
Man, this is killing me financially. And these Lycosaurs are supposed to be
the BEST engines for our airplanes????
Just venting.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
two jugs down...two to go???
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Com Antenna Placement |
Gary when you put that antenna on the belly didn't you listen to the pundits who
said your ground transmission wouldn't work very well? Neither did I! Mine is
exactly where yours is and works great on the ground (in garage with metal door
closed and all sorts of metal things hanging on walls Reid Hillveiw tower 2 1/2
miles away). They report it's crystal clear same for receiving. Radio is a Terra
720.
Garry, only two "r" on the list
Gary Zilik wrote:
>
> Norman Hunger wrote:
>
> >
> > I've got a Bob Archer com antenna in one wing tip connected to a Bob Archer
> > splitter then serving two com radios. I want to try this uncertified method
> > to eliminate external antennas. I've heard enough good reports on his
> > products to be satisfied. However, I would like to run RG-400 from the stack
> > to under the seats in case it isn't good enough. I want to make it quick and
> > easy to add a com ant. Is this the best spot in a RV6A? Who is happy with
> > his com ant below the belly?
> >
> >
>
> I have mine mounted on the belly right behind the rear spar attatch bulkhead.
> Works great on the ground and in the air.
>
> --
> Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado
> RV-6A N99PZ Flying
> Engine: Aerosport Power O-360-A1A
> Prop: Sensenich 72FM8S9-1-83
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
05/01/2001 11:17:03 AM
Anyone know of an RV-6 for sale that is well built and well maintained?
Local guy has the checkbook out but just can't find a clean one.
Thanks
Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
Any one looking for an RV to buy might try
Trade-A-Plane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Com Antenna Placement |
--- Norman Hunger wrote:
>
> > I have mine mounted on the belly right behind the rear spar attatch
> bulkhead.
> > Works great on the ground and in the air.
>
> Good news, thanks everybody, I'm going to run a line down there for
> future
> hook up if I need it......Norman........
Mine are mounted just FORWARD of the main spar and work great.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
788+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
> Anyone know of an RV-6 for sale that is well built and well maintained?
> Local guy has the checkbook out but just can't find a clean one.
Try Denny Harjehausen . He lost his medical about 4
months after he finished his 6. Very sad. He lives in Albany, Oregon.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked jugs |
Brian just a suggestion. I am guessing but here it is
anyway
1. I bet your paying about 700.00 per cylinder or in
that area.
2. you can buy brand new lycoming cylinders for
roughly 1100.00 and they come complete with new
pistons, wrist pin, valves and springs.
3. as you know our cylinders run the gammet of hot and
cold operations, but what alot of people do not know
is how close the temps are to each other: (let me
explain)
your intake side is pulling frigid air into the head
at extremely cold temperatures, on the exhaust side it
is extremely hot and can be as high as 1700 degrees.
They meet in the middle right between the spark plug
holes and cause metal fatigue to occur there and this
is what causes the cracking. This is why lycoming
reccomends new cylinders be installed, and they have a
limited warranty.
4. Although I am sure some of the "new" manufacturers
out there put out a great product, I have trouble in
my mind messing with technology that may be old but is
"proven" (if it aint broke don't fix it)
5. If you decide to go with "new" cylinders one thing
I would check is the piston weight and connecting rod
weight of opposite cylinders. The weight of the new
piston in the lycoming cylinder will be stamped on the
box, watch this closely as the oppsing cylinders
should be within 1 gram of each other. ( by opposing I
mean the left and right cylinders in the front of the
engine not side to side.
6. Althought the weight will not cause cracking of
your cylinders it makes for a pleasant running engine
and will save you in the long run on avionics
overhauls caused by excessive vibration.
7. Brian although not all of this is aimed at you as I
know some of your background, I am giving this
information to help fellow listers from falling into
this "money pit".
8. following up, as you are aware you now have had to
take apart your baffling and engine cylinders twice
now, and if you were to put this into dollars and
cents I believe it would be well worth the extra money
to buy new cylinders and the resulting "peace of mind"
as you know the history of your cylinder and you will
have a greater opportunity to make it to T.B.O. as we
all know the top end is the weak link and the bottom
end will go a long time.
I hope this helps
regards
Glenn Williams
--- Brian Denk wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> Well, the diagnosis came back from Gibson Aviation
> on my SECOND failed O-360
> jug: cracked.
>
> This is cylinder #2, and #1 was replaced last
> December with the same
> problem.
>
> Anyone out there had similar experiences with the
> front cylinders in an RV?
> I'm now thinking I need to add CHT probes to all
> four cylinders instead of
> just the (supposedly) hottest cyliner #3. I wonder
> if operating
> technique...too lean, too rich, too hot, too cold,
> too fast, too
> slow...whatever...is killing off these things? I try
> to lean to best
> operating smoothness in cruise flight and plan my
> descents to allow gradual
> power reduction. Maybe it's the occasional
> aerobatics with all the
> associated throttle jockeying (fixed pitch prop)
> that goes along with it.
> Hell, who knows.
>
> The engine now has about 500 hours SMOH, and I have
> no idea what the history
> is on the original cylinders. They are chrome, so
> they are not new...but
> just HOW old they actually are is a mystery.
>
> Man, this is killing me financially. And these
> Lycosaurs are supposed to be
> the BEST engines for our airplanes????
>
> Just venting.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> two jugs down...two to go???
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Insurance Increase |
>
> Just renewed by policy with Skysmith for $1208, $70,000 hull coverage,
same
> as last year. I used Avemco the first year, then changed when they
increased
> the premium 30%.
>
> Dave Hudgins
> RV-6A (For Sale)
>
>
Thanks Dave,
I will submit a request a quote from Skysmith
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked jugs |
Brian Denk wrote:
>
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> two jugs down...two to go???
>
Sure wish I could offer some good advice. But you have to look on the bright
side of things, at least it aint a 6 cylinder.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shouldn't Be Allowed ?? |
Y'all get sorta worked up when meeting skeptics, don't you!
I used to be a non-believer, so I know how they felt. I flew my Debonair
to Oshkosh and talked to some nice builders about their airplanes and was
eventually hooked. If those builders had all be as vitriolic as some of
you, I might not have built Valentine.
Try to remain calm,
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | FW: fuel pump fitting & oil filler neck problem |
Thought I would forward the exchange between Bart LeBlonde and myself to the
list for archive searches. Bart sent me the fitting referenced in the
following emails. He sent me a 45 deg fitting and a straight through
fitting so I could use either one. That's $20 + shipping friends and
neighbors that he did NOT bill me for. He said to keep whatever fittings I
don't use and pass them on to another RV builder who might need them. Think
Lycoming would do that? I tell you what, nowhere else will you find this
level of customer support. If you are thinking about buying an engine, I
cannot recommend Bart highly enough.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: sue gregor [mailto:hailey67(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 9:44 AM
Subject: RE: fitting & new problem (not too bad)reply
Scott my only concern would be that the glue would break down from the heat
and or the oil and the dip stick tube could fall apart making a big mess at
the least.
Bart
>From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com
>
>To: sue gregor >
>Subject: RE: fitting & new problem (not too bad)reply
>
>Thanks! I talked to someone else who used a PVC sleeve to hold the
two
>halves of the filler neck together. Would this and PVC cement
work? If
>you
>think the hose is best then that's what I'll go with.
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
>Network Administrator
>Union Safe Deposit Bank
>209-946-5116
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: sue gregor [mailto:hailey67(at)hotmail.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 8:05 AM
> To: svanarts(at)unionsafe.com
> Subject: RE: fitting & new problem (not too
bad)reply
>
> Scott others have used standard hose clamps to
secure the
>hose. This seems
> to work well.
> Bart
>
>
> >From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott"
>
> >To: sue gregor >
> >Subject: RE: fitting & new problem
(not too bad)reply
> >
> >Sounds good, Bart. Do you secure the hose
with steel hose
>clamps? I'm
> >pretty bad at this stuff without
instructions!
> >--
> >Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> >Network Administrator
> >Union Safe Deposit Bank
> >209-946-5116
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: sue gregor
>[mailto:hailey67(at)hotmail.com]
> > Sent: Monday, April 30,
2001 1:31 PM
> > To:
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com
> > Subject: RE: fitting
& new problem
>(not too bad)reply
> >
> > Scott keep the other
fitting. You may be
>able to help
> >another builder out
> > with it. Most guys are
cutting the dip
>sticks on RV4s and
> >shortening to the
> > desired length. You will
need a short
>section of 1-1/8the
> >hose to reconnect
> > the two sections left. This
works out better
>than finding a
> >shorter tube as
> > it usually hits the engine
mount anyways.
>Just remember to
> >shorten the dip
> > stick the same amount you
shorten the tube.
> >
>Bart
> >
> >
> > >From: "Van
Artsdalen, Scott"
> >
> > >To: sue gregor
>
> > >Subject: RE:
fitting & new problem (not too
>bad)
> > >Date: Mon, 30 Apr
> > >
> > >Great! I'll send
you the one back that I
>don't use. Got
> >one other
> > >problem.
> > >The oil filler tube
sticks out above my top
>cowling on my
> >rv-4. I had to
> > >go
> > >ahead and cut the
opening for the oil door
>before I could
> >fit the top cowl.
> > >It looks like it
sticks up a good 2 inches.
>I took some
> >pictures over the
> > >weekend and can
send them to you if you
>need a better idea
> >of what I'm
> > >talking about. Is
there a shorter filler
>tube/dipstick
> >combo that I can
> > >put
> > >on? I need it to
be probably about 6
>inches shorter. Any
> >ideas?
> > >--
> > >Scott VanArtsdalen,
MCSE, CCNA
> > >Network
Administrator
> > >Union Safe Deposit
Bank
> > >209-946-5116
> > >
> > >
> > >
-----Original Message-----
> > >
From: sue gregor
> >[mailto:hailey67(at)hotmail.com]
> > >
Sent: Wednesday, April 25,
>2001 1:30 PM
> > > To:
>svanarts(at)unionsafe.com
> > >
Subject: RE: fitting
> > >
> > >
Scott fitting on way.
> > >
>Bart
> > >
> > >
> > >
>From: "Van Artsdalen,
>Scott"
> > >
> > >
>To: sue gregor
> >
> > >
>Subject: RE: fitting
> > >
> > >
>
> > >
>Well, I don't know what the
>part number
> >would be but I
> > >think that 90 deg
> > >
>fitting on the exit side of
>the fuel pump
> >needs to be a 45
> > >deg fitting. I
> > >
>was going to order a KB-045
>from Aircraft
> >Spruce. If that
> > >sounds right to
> > >
>you, then if you could send
>me one I'd
> >really appreciate
> > >it!
> > >
>--
> > >
>Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE,
>CCNA
> > >
>Network Administrator
> > >
>Union Safe Deposit Bank
> > >
>209-946-5116
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
>-----Original Message-----
* > > > From: sue
>gregor
> >
>[mailto:hailey67(at)hotmail.com]
* > > > Sent:
>Wednesday, April 25,
> >2001 9:55 AM
* > > > To:
> >svanarts(at)unionsafe.com
* > > > Subject:
>fitting
> > >
>
* > > > Scott let me
>know what you
> >need for a
> > >fitting and
I will
> > >
>mail you one.
> > >
>
> > >Bart
> > >
>
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>_________________________________________________________________________
* > > > Get Your
>Private, Free
> >E-mail from MSN
> > >Hotmail at
> > >
>http://www.hotmail.com.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>_________________________________________________________________________
> > > Get
Your Private, Free
>E-mail from MSN
> >Hotmail at
> >
>http://www.hotmail.com.
> >
> >
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________________
E-mail from MSN
>Hotmail at
> >http://www.hotmail.com.
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________________
>http://www.hotmail.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Cracked jugs
Thread-Index: AcDSVvEJcEIrHemoRtqs7ElSfHRNoAAAfUhw
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Hi Brian,
If I were you, I'd be raising some serious hell with whomever you bought
the engine from and let them buy you a new cylinder. I'm sure you
bought the engine expecting it to go to TBO, and if doesn't then the
seller didn't live up to his end of the deal. Period. I can understand
one cylinder going out, but when you have another that does the same
thing I wouldn't just write it off as a freak occurrence. I've heard
horror stories where some salvage yards put together engines out of
parts laying around the barn which would have no business in any
airplane but since they know they're going to sell it as an experimental
engine they do it anyway. There's a lot of junk floating around, folks.
It sounds like you're not doing anything wrong, Brian; I run around with
guys who do acro and have 1500 hours on their engines and no engine
problems whatsoever. You could give the cylinder serial number to a
Lycoming rep to find out when it was produced, but that won't tell you
how many hours are on it obviously. I'm guessing that that your
cylinders have high time on them and are past their fatigue life. Your
best bet would be to try to get the seller to partially finance the cost
of four new lyc or superior cylinders, bolt them on, and be done with
your engine woes. If the establishment you purchased the engine from
doesn't help you, then by all means spread the word so that others don't
deal with them. Your life is worth a lot more than four grand, and you
certainly don't want that voice in the back of your mind saying well, I
hope a cylinder doesn't disintegrate today while you're flying over
something where there's no place to land. At the very least with new
cylinders you'll be buying a lot less oil than with the non-chrome
cylinders.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 123 hours
Kokomo, IN
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Denk [mailto:akroguy(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 10:05 AM
Subject: RV-List: Cracked jugs
Listers,
Well, the diagnosis came back from Gibson Aviation on my SECOND failed
O-360
jug: cracked.
This is cylinder #2, and #1 was replaced last December with the same
problem.
Anyone out there had similar experiences with the front cylinders in an
RV?
I'm now thinking I need to add CHT probes to all four cylinders instead
of
just the (supposedly) hottest cyliner #3. I wonder if operating
technique...too lean, too rich, too hot, too cold, too fast, too
slow...whatever...is killing off these things? I try to lean to best
operating smoothness in cruise flight and plan my descents to allow
gradual
power reduction. Maybe it's the occasional aerobatics with all the
associated throttle jockeying (fixed pitch prop) that goes along with
it.
Hell, who knows.
The engine now has about 500 hours SMOH, and I have no idea what the
history
is on the original cylinders. They are chrome, so they are not
new...but
just HOW old they actually are is a mystery.
Man, this is killing me financially. And these Lycosaurs are supposed
to be
the BEST engines for our airplanes????
Just venting.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
two jugs down...two to go???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Eric,
Local where? The Bakersfield Bunch has numerous birds, all extremely
well built/cared for, I'm sure there's at least one 6 available.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
Since we are on the subject, I am considering the foil windscreen comm antennae
like Van's uses on some of their prototypes. Anyone have good or bad comments
on this setup? My airplane is an RV-6A Slider and I have a Terra 720.
Thanks,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A - N57ME (reserved) (Panel Wiring)
www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked jugs |
Brian,
A gentleman named Deakins has a very interesting column on Lycoming's latest
bulletin. He writes columns for www.avweb.com. It doesn't specifically
address your concern, but does provide insight in how to operate these
engines for best life.
Bill Christie, RV8A fuselage, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 3:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: Cracked jugs
>
> Listers,
>
> Well, the diagnosis came back from Gibson Aviation on my SECOND failed
O-360
> jug: cracked.
>
> This is cylinder #2, and #1 was replaced last December with the same
> problem.
>
> Anyone out there had similar experiences with the front cylinders in an
RV?
> I'm now thinking I need to add CHT probes to all four cylinders instead of
> just the (supposedly) hottest cyliner #3. I wonder if operating
> technique...too lean, too rich, too hot, too cold, too fast, too
> slow...whatever...is killing off these things? I try to lean to best
> operating smoothness in cruise flight and plan my descents to allow
gradual
> power reduction. Maybe it's the occasional aerobatics with all the
> associated throttle jockeying (fixed pitch prop) that goes along with it.
> Hell, who knows.
>
> The engine now has about 500 hours SMOH, and I have no idea what the
history
> is on the original cylinders. They are chrome, so they are not new...but
> just HOW old they actually are is a mystery.
>
> Man, this is killing me financially. And these Lycosaurs are supposed to
be
> the BEST engines for our airplanes????
>
> Just venting.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> two jugs down...two to go???
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cracked jugs |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
05/01/2001 01:06:09 PM
Hey Brian,
Where did they crack? The old exhaust port crack trick? Seems thats the
first place lots of the engine guys look. Best money maker Lyco ever made.
"Brian Denk" (at)matronics.com on 05/01/2001 11:05:02 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Cracked jugs
Listers,
Well, the diagnosis came back from Gibson Aviation on my SECOND failed
O-360
jug: cracked.
This is cylinder #2, and #1 was replaced last December with the same
problem.
Anyone out there had similar experiences with the front cylinders in an RV?
I'm now thinking I need to add CHT probes to all four cylinders instead of
just the (supposedly) hottest cyliner #3. I wonder if operating
technique...too lean, too rich, too hot, too cold, too fast, too
slow...whatever...is killing off these things? I try to lean to best
operating smoothness in cruise flight and plan my descents to allow gradual
power reduction. Maybe it's the occasional aerobatics with all the
associated throttle jockeying (fixed pitch prop) that goes along with it.
Hell, who knows.
The engine now has about 500 hours SMOH, and I have no idea what the
history
is on the original cylinders. They are chrome, so they are not new...but
just HOW old they actually are is a mystery.
Man, this is killing me financially. And these Lycosaurs are supposed to
be
the BEST engines for our airplanes????
Just venting.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
two jugs down...two to go???
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Comm Antenae |
Eric ,
Last fall I talked to Gus, I think that's his name (english accent), at Vans he
said he gave up trying to make it work properly ( it squealed in his headset
and had poor reception and transmission properties) and installed an outside
antenna. I've got a Terra 720 with bell mounted antenna that works great, on the
ground at least.
Garry
RV6 Finishing
ENewton57(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Since we are on the subject, I am considering the foil windscreen comm antennae
like Van's uses on some of their prototypes. Anyone have good or bad comments
on this setup? My airplane is an RV-6A Slider and I have a Terra 720.
> Thanks,
>
> Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
> RV-6A - N57ME (reserved) (Panel Wiring)
> www.ericsrv6a.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked jugs |
I just read Deakins article. He's right in that we can't operate our Lyc's
LOP 'cause the engine runs too rough before we get there. Oh well, helped
kill lunch hr. anyway.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 O-320-D1A C/S leaned to ROP 'cause that's all there is.
>Brian,
>A gentleman named Deakins has a very interesting column on Lycoming's
>latest
>bulletin. He writes columns for www.avweb.com. It doesn't specifically
>address your concern, but does provide insight in how to operate these
>engines for best life.
>Bill Christie, RV8A fuselage, Phoenix
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Cracked jugs
Thread-Index: AcDSZKF7FzEV4G2kQ4af3BPuuHkVwAAAAymw
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Hi Scott,
A little typo...take the word "non" out of the sentence. I hardly read
whatever I type.
Engines that have chrome cylinders tend to consume oil. This is
conventional wisdom that I didn't know about until after I bought my
engine (does that mean I'm not wise???). Don't know the exact technical
reason why. Mine goes through a quart about every 8-10 hours, it has
chrome cylinders; most of it ends up on the belly, but the engine isn't
burning the oil. I have a separator which helps, but not much. A
friend with an IO-360 with chrome cylinders in his -8 uses about the
same amount of oil.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
-----Original Message-----
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com [mailto:ABAYMAN(at)aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 12:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cracked jugs
<< At the very least with new
cylinders you'll be buying a lot less oil than with the non-chrome
cylinders. >>
Bob,
what do you mean by this statement, my engine has chrome cylinders, and
i
haven't started it up yet to find out the oil consumption, . Do chrome
cylinders go through more oil?
scott
tampa
rv6a finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Yowsa, here is something I don't ever want to deal with.
B. Reg. No.: 26RK M/M: RV4 Desc: 1987 VAN GRUNSEN RV-4
Activity: Pleasure Phase: Cruise GA-A/C: General Aviation
Descr: EXP AIRCRAFT HAD PROPELLER COME OFF IN FLIGHT, LANDED ON FOOTBALL
FIELD, ONAGA, KS
--
Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado
RV-6A N99PZ Flying
Engine: Aerosport Power O-360-A1A
Prop: Sensenich 72FM8S9-1-83
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV4 partially complete--- 4 sale---- bargain price---- will |
accept any resonable offer
Phone 620-431-1874 evenings -- Kansas
Ask for Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
Hi all...
I just posted the first draft of my wiring diagram... I am interested in
your feedback, but go easy on me, I'm a virgin!
What I am looking for is a cheap, simple, and reliable night VFR system...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/panel/wd1/N8VD-WD-1.htm
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked jugs |
>
>
>Brian,
>A gentleman named Deakins has a very interesting column on Lycoming's
>latest
>bulletin. He writes columns for www.avweb.com. It doesn't specifically
>address your concern, but does provide insight in how to operate these
>engines for best life.
>Bill Christie, RV8A fuselage, Phoenix
Bill,
Funny you should mention that. I read that article just yesterday! I would
have never thought that running on the LEAN side of peak was a good idea.
Quite a paradigm shift for me. I've been running just rich of peak, as far
as my #3 cylinder EGT tells me on a carbureted engine...which is certainly
not uniform for all cylinders. It does, however, give me a reference point
along with overall smoothness of operation.
Along these lines, I received a response from Bart Lalonde just a while ago.
His recommendations, which I value greatly, are to have EGT/CHT
indications for all four cylinders. Also, he stated that when replacing
jugs, do all you can to insure that you use new cylinders or first runout
overhauls only. New cylinders are certainly doable, but at a cost premium.
Finding first runout overhauls might be a daunting task. Either you'd have
to find the cylinders yourself, or trust that they are indeed taking all
reasonable measures to assure you that they are truly first runout.
Hmm...Eclipse Aviation is going to be building those new jets here pretty
soon. I wonder if they'd notice if one of their William's jet engines
disappeared from stock.....??? Oooh...gimme gimme..
Brian Denk
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | uEncoder power supply |
Listers,
Just a heads up for those using Rocky Mountain Instruments MicroEncoders so
they don't make the same mistake I did: make sure you power your unit from
your avionics master switch or bus, which you will normally switch on
*after* engine start. I powered mine from a breaker on the main bus which is
energized whenever the master switch is on. During starter engagement your
bus voltage will drop to approximately 9.7 volts (measured mine). According
to Ron Mowrer at RMI anything below about 10.5 will cause the uEncoder to
reset itself to 29.92. Whenever it does this you not only lose your local
altimeter setting, and get an incorrect altitude of course, but the thing
sits there and flashes. Of course the display goes crazy during this reset.
It would have been no problem to wire it this way from the get go, but
nowhere in the manual does it mention this problem, and now I have all
breakers permanently mounted and placards engraved... grrr. The temporary
workaround is to move the power supply up to one of my avionics appliances.
This will function fine but leave my placarding incorrect and give me no way
to pull the breaker/power to just the uEncoder for troubleshooting. I'll
probably gang it on my intercom circuit.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, first flight probably thursday
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WCruiser1(at)aol.com |
If you find one, order two, they are as rare as hens teeth. I am just about ready
to write the elephant check to Vans for a 0-time engine.
G
2
RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "McShurley, Donald" <dgm(at)slac.stanford.edu> |
| Subject: | uEncoder power supply |
<76A109862EAED4119176009027EECD1E04381F7C(at)AGAMEMNON.SLAC.Stanford.EDU>
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy Lervold [mailto:randy@rv-8.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 1:09 PM
aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: uEncoder power supply
Listers,
Just a heads up for those using Rocky Mountain Instruments MicroEncoders so
they don't make the same mistake I did: make sure you power your unit from
your avionics master switch or bus, which you will normally switch on
*after* engine start. I powered mine from a breaker on the main bus which is
energized whenever the master switch is on. During starter engagement your
bus voltage will drop to approximately 9.7 volts (measured mine). According
to Ron Mowrer at RMI anything below about 10.5 will cause the uEncoder to
reset itself to 29.92. Whenever it does this you not only lose your local
altimeter setting, and get an incorrect altitude of course, but the thing
sits there and flashes. Of course the display goes crazy during this reset.
Randy, No big problem. Just put a small automotive d.c. relay in line with the
circuit breaker. Switch the relay with power from the avionics buss. This will
give you c.b. protection and you won't have to change your labeling
Don McShurley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com> |
Does anyone have one of those fuel tank dimple dies from Cleveland tools
that they would like to sell for half price?
Cliff
RV9A (tanks)
www.barefootpilot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | david <davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae> |
| Subject: | Plans for metal fuselage jig - RV6A |
Greetings Listers from the Persian Gulf,
I am just finishing my wings and will commence on fuselage within next few
weeks. Good straight lumber is about as rare as Rocking Horse Manure here in
the UAE, so I have to make it out of steel. Does anyone have any plans or a
material list, as I tend to over engineer things and don't want to spend a
lot of unnecessary time/effort on the jig. My initial thoughts is to make it
as per plans but use steel square tubing of the same dimensions. Being here
in the Arabian Gulf makes it impossible to view anyone else's efforts - talk
about out on a limb !!
Any help would sure be appreciated.
Finishing RV6A Wings
David Roseblade
Persian Gulf , getting hotter by the day !
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: uEncoder power supply |
Hey Randy,
I got kinda lucky hear and found out about this early on when I was have
some conversation with the folks and Rocky Mountain. Can't rememnber now
but not important. Anyway, what I did was tie it into the transponder
circuit breaker because that is how most standard encoders are wired, FWIW.
Mike Robertson
Former RV-8A owner
P.S. I am now firmly entrenched in Portland and look forward to all the RV
activity here.
>From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: , ,
>
>Subject: RV-List: uEncoder power supply
>Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 13:09:08 -0700
>
>
>Listers,
>
>Just a heads up for those using Rocky Mountain Instruments MicroEncoders so
>they don't make the same mistake I did: make sure you power your unit from
>your avionics master switch or bus, which you will normally switch on
>*after* engine start. I powered mine from a breaker on the main bus which
>is
>energized whenever the master switch is on. During starter engagement your
>bus voltage will drop to approximately 9.7 volts (measured mine). According
>to Ron Mowrer at RMI anything below about 10.5 will cause the uEncoder to
>reset itself to 29.92. Whenever it does this you not only lose your local
>altimeter setting, and get an incorrect altitude of course, but the thing
>sits there and flashes. Of course the display goes crazy during this reset.
>
>It would have been no problem to wire it this way from the get go, but
>nowhere in the manual does it mention this problem, and now I have all
>breakers permanently mounted and placards engraved... grrr. The temporary
>workaround is to move the power supply up to one of my avionics appliances.
>This will function fine but leave my placarding incorrect and give me no
>way
>to pull the breaker/power to just the uEncoder for troubleshooting. I'll
>probably gang it on my intercom circuit.
>
>Randy Lervold
>RV-8, #80500, first flight probably thursday
>www.rv-8.com
>Home Wing VAF
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Comm Antenae |
Eric,
Didn't work for me. Too much RF getting into the headset causing a loud
squeal during transmit. Even capacitors didn't help. Finally moved the ant.
to the belly where it works great.
Bill, RV-8 N48WD
----- Original Message -----
From: <ENewton57(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 1:00 PM
Subject: RV-List: Comm Antenae
>
> Since we are on the subject, I am considering the foil windscreen comm
antennae like Van's uses on some of their prototypes. Anyone have good or
bad comments on this setup? My airplane is an RV-6A Slider and I have a
Terra 720.
> Thanks,
>
> Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
> RV-6A - N57ME (reserved) (Panel Wiring)
> www.ericsrv6a.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked jugs |
In a message dated 05/01/2001 1:06:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
billc(at)dancris.com writes:
> A gentleman named Deakins has a very interesting column on Lycoming's latest
> bulletin. He writes columns for www.avweb.com. It doesn't specifically
> address your concern, but does provide insight in how to operate these
> engines for best life.
>
I read Deakins' post with interest yesterday, but after one read-through, I
am not certain it really has much relevance to us flat-four carbureted
guys... we can't really operate LOP without unacceptable roughness most of
the time. Comments??
Bill B
New carby just installed.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP
Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PlaneWizz(at)cs.com |
Louis:
Just go to Van's web site for banquet info.
www.vansaircraft.com
On the right hand side, there is a specific "Oshkosh" heading you can click
on and get the details for getting tickets.
Good Luck
Dave Pohl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: uEncoder power supply |
Randy, the uEncoder on my RV-6 is wired through the main bus since I
have no avionics switch. I have seen the uEncoder "reset" maybe three or
four times in 260 hrs of operation, and each time it was only necessary
to push the ACK knob to get the unit to display properly (well....seems
I remember having to reset the altimeter setting a couple of times).
I had heard of the possibility of the calibration tables being corrupted
by the reset, but it has never happened with my unit.
Before you mess up your nice placards and wiring architecture, you may
want to fly for a while to see if you do indeed have a problem with
resets. I suspect the unit will be very reliable as you have it wired
now.
Good luck with your tests flights!
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, and very happy with the RMI stuff!)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
===============
Randy Lervold wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> Just a heads up for those using Rocky Mountain Instruments MicroEncoders so
> they don't make the same mistake I did: make sure you power your unit from
> your avionics master switch or bus, which you will normally switch on
> *after* engine start. I powered mine from a breaker on the main bus which is
> energized whenever the master switch is on. During starter engagement your
> bus voltage will drop to approximately 9.7 volts (measured mine). According
> to Ron Mowrer at RMI anything below about 10.5 will cause the uEncoder to
> reset itself to 29.92. Whenever it does this you not only lose your local
> altimeter setting, and get an incorrect altitude of course, but the thing
> sits there and flashes. Of course the display goes crazy during this reset.
>
> It would have been no problem to wire it this way from the get go, but
> nowhere in the manual does it mention this problem, and now I have all
> breakers permanently mounted and placards engraved... grrr. The temporary
> workaround is to move the power supply up to one of my avionics appliances.
> This will function fine but leave my placarding incorrect and give me no way
> to pull the breaker/power to just the uEncoder for troubleshooting. I'll
> probably gang it on my intercom circuit.
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, #80500, first flight probably thursday
> www.rv-8.com
> Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Krhooper(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Stuck Slip-Joint on Exhaust System |
Milk of Magnesia may be used as a high temp antisieze. It is used on turbine
engine igniters.
Randy Hooper
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked jugs |
>
>Listers,
>
>Well, the diagnosis came back from Gibson Aviation on my SECOND failed O-360
>jug: cracked.
>
>This is cylinder #2, and #1 was replaced last December with the same
>problem.
>
>=======================
This can be a tough nut to crack (ahem). We have planes that are made to
go up and play around with and that means sometimes getting all over the
throttle. Powering up one side of a loop and shutting it down on the back
side puts these air cooled gas burners through real steep thermal
cycles. The heating up isn't so bad but the shock cooling is a killer. I
remember a maximum cooling rate from some time ago was about 1 degree per
three seconds. That's near impossible when you're up playing around. The
4 cyl cht recommended by Bart will help you see the thermal cycle you are
putting your engine through. Maybe this is part of your problem and maybe
not, I've never seen you fly. I know there are plenty of pilots that are
not cognizant of the cooling rate of their engine. Not their fault, they
were never taught it was something to worry about. In another life I ran a
skydiving operation and that is one of the toughest duty cycles you can put
on a plane. The first thing they learned from us was to take care of the
engine. Many cylinders could be trashed by a ham fisted pilot in a hurry
to get back down after a long hard climb. Makes your cash flow turn red in
a hurry. The trick was to cool them off slowly at first. Once the temps
stabilized you could come down faster. The last three years we were in
business we had no cracked cylinders, the first couple of years were
expensive lessons. I know how I fly my RV-4 and if I saw or heard one of
our jump pilots moving the throttle that fast I would have been all over
him/her about buying me some new cylinders. Again, it's a tough nut to
crack as these planes are not intended to do straight and level flying.
Just sharing lessons learned..
Blue skies,
Mike
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Aurora, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Stribling" <bbattery(at)bendcable.com> |
I am down to plumbing my brake system and am a mechanic by trade so why does
the bleed valve for the calipers show as being on the bottom when the
trapped air will be at the top
Ken S. Down to little things and looking for hanger in bend>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: uEncoder power supply |
> Randy, the uEncoder on my RV-6 is wired through the main bus since I
> have no avionics switch. I have seen the uEncoder "reset" maybe three or
> four times in 260 hrs of operation, and each time it was only necessary
> to push the ACK knob to get the unit to display properly (well....seems
> I remember having to reset the altimeter setting a couple of times).
>
> I had heard of the possibility of the calibration tables being corrupted
> by the reset, but it has never happened with my unit.
>
> Before you mess up your nice placards and wiring architecture, you may
> want to fly for a while to see if you do indeed have a problem with
> resets. I suspect the unit will be very reliable as you have it wired
> now.
> Good luck with your tests flights!
Sam,
I have engaged the starter six times now with pressurizing the engine and
actually starting it twice and the uEncoder has gone through a reset every
time. Nevertheless I will leave it wired as it is for a week or so as you
suggest. I can simply pull the breaker prior to starting and then push it in
after I start the engine, which I'll probably do the first few times. Then
I'll do as you suggest and try starting with the unit hot. If it does indeed
reset every time I'll change the power sourse... it can't be good for it to
reset like that. Ron at RMI kind of cringed when I told him 9.6 volts.
First flight very likely Thursday morning, second flight same day.
Thanks!
Randy
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Austin's soliloquy... |
< And 20 minutes from there, we skim the forest at a slower speed and
peer below to see if we can see anything of another yellow Harvard, missing
for 50 years, or any of the other "missings" still sleeping there.
These granite cliffs that continue their steep plunge far below the green
surface of the sea, a great place to fish , and beautiful and dangerous to
dive..>
Pure poetry, old timer...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked jugs (GAMI) |
Bill,
LOP does make sence, But you need to address the roughness issue first.
Based on what I've read - the best way (with IO engines)is with the GAMI
injectors, which are now available for Lycomings. They resolve the roughness
issue by eliminating early over leaning on the first cylinders in the
injection system by having all Cyl lean at the same time.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (finishing F/G)
Niantic, CT & Westerly airport
>
>I read Deakins' post with interest yesterday, but after one read-through, I
>am not certain it really has much relevance to us flat-four carbureted
>guys... we can't really operate LOP without unacceptable roughness most of
>the time. Comments??
>
>Bill B
>New carby just installed.
>
>
>Bill Boyd
>RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: uEncoder power supply |
Randy Lervold wrote:
>
>
> > Randy, the uEncoder on my RV-6 is wired through the main bus since I
> > have no avionics switch. I have seen the uEncoder "reset" maybe three or
> > four times in 260 hrs of operation, and each time it was only necessary
> > to push the ACK knob to get the unit to display properly (well....seems
> > I remember having to reset the altimeter setting a couple of times).
> >
> > I had heard of the possibility of the calibration tables being corrupted
> > by the reset, but it has never happened with my unit.
> >
> > Before you mess up your nice placards and wiring architecture, you may
> > want to fly for a while to see if you do indeed have a problem with
> > resets. I suspect the unit will be very reliable as you have it wired
> > now.
> > Good luck with your tests flights!
>
> Sam,
> I have engaged the starter six times now with pressurizing the engine and
> actually starting it twice and the uEncoder has gone through a reset every
> time. Nevertheless I will leave it wired as it is for a week or so as you
> suggest. I can simply pull the breaker prior to starting and then push it in
> after I start the engine, which I'll probably do the first few times. Then
> I'll do as you suggest and try starting with the unit hot. If it does indeed
> reset every time I'll change the power sourse... it can't be good for it to
> reset like that. Ron at RMI kind of cringed when I told him 9.6 volts.
>
> First flight very likely Thursday morning, second flight same day.
>
> Thanks!
> Randy
> www.rv-8.com
>
Mine actually dumped the tables and I had to reload them all. I just went to
radio shack and got a very small unobtrusive toggle switch and wired it
through that. The switch is in my panel unmarked, I just turn it on
after start.
Jerry Springer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Harmonic balancer for sale? |
Does anyone out there in RV land have a Landoll harmonic balancer for an
O-320 that (1) they are not using and (2) want to sell?
Steve Soule
Huntington, V T
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Ken Stribling wrote:
>
> I am down to plumbing my brake system and am a mechanic by trade so why does
> the bleed valve for the calipers show as being on the bottom when the
> trapped air will be at the top
>
> Ken S. Down to little things and looking for hanger in bend>
>
> _
Ken,
Common practice is to bleed the brakes from the bottom up. Starting with an
empty system fill a pump oil can with fluid and attach a hose from the bleed
valve to the oil can. Open the bleed valve and start pumping fluid in. Watch
the air bubbles rise and when there are no bubbles in the line you are done.
Make sure you keep an I on the fluid resevoir so it does no over flow.
--
Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado
RV-6A N99PZ Flying
Engine: Aerosport Power O-360-A1A with H2AD Pistons
Prop: Sensenich 72FM8S9-1-83
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
Ken - The bleed valve needs to be at the bottom as you need to push fluid up
through the system. The air in the system will be pushed out at the
reservoir. You will need to do both sides the same way. Bleeding the system
from the top down as in automotive applications is extremely difficult if
not impossible as the master cylinders are not at the top as in an auto and
cannot push fluid through the system above the cylinders.
Hope this helps,
Douglas G. Murray RV-6 C-GRPA
Southern Alberta (a fellow Automotive Technician)
>
> I am down to plumbing my brake system and am a mechanic by trade so why
does
> the bleed valve for the calipers show as being on the bottom when the
> trapped air will be at the top
>
> Ken S. Down to little things and looking for hanger in bend>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Benson, Bradley" <bbenson(at)trane.com> |
Or how about down one of the gear leg fairings? I've seen a number of
folks make reference to doing this and this is what I plan to do with mine.
At this early point in the game, I think I'll be able to keep most of the
antennas inside, save for the GPS disk.
Cheers,
Brad
RV6A Underway...
> Since we are on the subject, I am considering the foil windscreen comm
antennae like
> Van's uses on some of their prototypes. Anyone have good or bad comments
on this
> setup? My airplane is an RV-6A Slider and I have a Terra 720.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
We have always been satisfied with the rates and service for over 10
years with AUA. Give Mac McGee a call at 800-727-3823.
George and Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | polished aluminum spinner |
We are pleased to offer a polished aluminum spinner made the same size
and shape as Van's spinner. The price is $210 plus shipping. Please email
or call (940) 648-0841 for further information.
George and Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "skybolt-aviator" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
Because aircraft brakes are usually bled from bottom which pushes air and
fluid up through brakes, lines and master cylinders.
Ollie&Lorene Washburn
RV6-A,N795LW,@FD77.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Stribling" <bbattery(at)bendcable.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 12:03 AM
Subject: RV-List: bleed valve
>
> I am down to plumbing my brake system and am a mechanic by trade so why
does
> the bleed valve for the calipers show as being on the bottom when the
> trapped air will be at the top
>
> Ken S. Down to little things and looking for hanger in bend>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
If Austin's writing is prose or poetry,I like it,It brightens my day.
Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: polished aluminum spinner |
> We are pleased to offer a polished aluminum spinner made the same
size
> and shape as Van's spinner. The price is $210 plus shipping. Please
email
> or call (940) 648-0841 for further information.
>
> George and Becki Orndorff
How much does it weigh?
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
I have a space problem in the panel of my RV4 .I need to replace my
Terra com.Was there an Aussy com.radio of a small dimension a few months
ago on the list?
Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank, Dan" <DFrank(at)dfwairport.com> |
| Subject: | Instrument Repair |
Well I started wiring the plane last night and joined the bonehead club, as
if I weren't already a member. I am using Van's new 2 1/4" gauges which
have the 6/32 studs protruding from the back of the instrument for
attachment of the wires with ring terminals. I was working along, proud
that I was finally starting to wire the plane and got a little over zealous
when tightening one of the nuts on the manifold pressure gauge. It sheared
the 6/32 stud in two pieces near the back of the instrument. There is just
enough stud remaining to connect the ring terminal without the double nut
set up that the other terminals have. To explain that a little clearer.
With the normal setup, as the stud protrudes from the back of the instrument
there is a nut, washer, ring terminal, washer, star washer, and finally a
nut. I can only get the ring terminal, washer, star washer and then the nut
with little to no thread protruding from the nut. I think this setup with
work, but I would like to replace the stud if this can be easily completed.
My question is, can the studs be easily removed or replaced or would I have
to replace the instrument itself? Is this something I could easily do my
self or do I need to find an avionics repair shop?
Thanks in advance.
Dan Frank RV-8 finish kit
Trophy Club, TX
http:\\n808vr.homestead.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8/A WITH 0-235 |
Based upon the performance I see in my O-320 powered -8, you'd probably be
looking at something between 500-1000 fpm climb performance and maybe
150-160-mph top speeds.
just an educated guess
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RION BOURGEOIS" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Microair has a comm radio that fits into a 2.25 inch panel hole. Electric
Bob markets it on his website. You can read Jim Weir's review there. Rion
----- Original Message -----
From: "BOBE." <RVPilot4(at)webtv.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 9:12 AM
Subject: RV-List: Radio
>
> I have a space problem in the panel of my RV4 .I need to replace my
> Terra com.Was there an Aussy com.radio of a small dimension a few months
> ago on the list?
>
> Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: polished aluminum spinner |
Glad to hear that guys. I will be in contact in the future re: the spinner.
Just what I wanted. Bob in Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
Bob, check out MicroAir at http://www.microair.com.au/home.asp
Mike
>
> I have a space problem in the panel of my RV4 .I need to replace my
> Terra com.Was there an Aussy com.radio of a small dimension a few months
> ago on the list?
>
> Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Navratil <czechsix(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Throttle Quadrant |
Guys, I have a couple questions about the throttle quadrant setup on an 8/8A
(sent an e-mail to Vans a few days ago and haven't heard back yet...)
I purchased Vans 2 lever throttle quadrant. The quadrant bolts to the left
side console F-8100A (RV-8 has a different part number here), and I am
wondering if the inboard plate on the quadrant could just be removed and
left out? The plans aren't real clear on this....seems like redundant
weight to me, and the F-8100A appears more than strong enough to handle the
loads here (albeit a bit thinner than the plate currently on the quadrant).
Also, on the plans it shows the throttle cable anchor F-864E with 3 holes.
Since I am not using a prop lever, I assume that I need only two holes and
that these are the top 2? And if so, can I put the holes closer together or
will the nuts anchoring the cable housing interfere with each other? Just
curious because the plans show a 1" spacing between the top two holes, but
my throttle and mixture levers are only 3/4 " apart.
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Lundin <rlundin46(at)yahoo.com> |
Wanted: Rv-8 tail group. Please respond offline.
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-8A Quickbuild Kit for sale |
We have an -8A quickbuild kit for sale for $23,000. For more
information, please call 940-648-0841.
George and Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | " theslumlord" <theslumlord(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | thinner for silicone |
turpentine can be used as a thinner for silicone sealant. You will get some
shrinkage in proportion to the amount of turpentine used when the mixture
sets up.
Ralph Bookout, Certified Slumlord
RV 6 finishing- Visalia, Ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Mack" <don(at)dmack.net> |
J.A. Air Center in Dupage IL, is selling the Microairs for $749.00. Tel
1-800-323-5966
There is a dealer selling them in Australia. At current $ conversion rates
(conversion rate link is on the site's webpage), the cost in US dollars is
$571. http://www.mcp.com.au/microair/
I have one in my Ercoupe and it works fine. It's the only radio I know of
that is short enough to fit in standard coupe panel. I will probably put one
in my 6A.
Don Mack don(at)dmack.net www.dmack.net
> >
> > I have a space problem in the panel of my RV4 .I need to replace my
> > Terra com.Was there an Aussy com.radio of a small dimension a few months
> > ago on the list?
> >
> > Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Bleeding the brakes is a mis-nomer. You force fluid in the bottom at the
"bleed" valve using a oil pump can to fill the system until your master
cylinder is at the correct level. This forces the air out at the top. Once
you have an air free system you can add fluid at the master cylinder as long
as you still have fluid in the master. Once the fluid level is down in the
lines, you have to repeat the pump up routine.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Stribling" <bbattery(at)bendcable.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 11:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: bleed valve
>
> I am down to plumbing my brake system and am a mechanic by trade so why
does
> the bleed valve for the calipers show as being on the bottom when the
> trapped air will be at the top
>
> Ken S. Down to little things and looking for hanger in bend>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Yes, Its called a MicroAir 760. Its total weight is 14 oz. and fits in a 2
1/4 inch hole. The US distributer is EDMO Distributers out of spokane, WA.
Their Number is 1-800-235-3300. They won't sell to you idrectly but will be
able to give you who your closest shop is. I actually went down to the EDMO
shop and held this little jewel in my hands. While I haven't tried it on an
aircraft yet, it is very small, very light weight, and the switches are easy
to move. There were two versions, an unlite and a lighted. I would
recommend the lighted one. The price was also very nice. At that time it
was $850-$950 depending on which version. The company is also making a
tranponder although it was not out yet when I was there.
Mike Robertson
Former RV-8A owner
>From: RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.)
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Radio
>Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 11:12:42 -0500 (CDT)
>
>
>I have a space problem in the panel of my RV4 .I need to replace my
>Terra com.Was there an Aussy com.radio of a small dimension a few months
>ago on the list?
>
>Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "BOBE." <RVPilot4(at)webtv.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 5:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: Radio
>
> I have a space problem in the panel of my RV4 .I need to replace my
> Terra com.Was there an Aussy com.radio of a small dimension a few months
> ago on the list?
>
> Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
>
There's an advert in Sport Aviation for this radio. It fits in a standard
size hole in your panel (2 3/4" I believe)
Marcel de Ruiter
Rv4/ G-RVMJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Quadrant |
Mark,
You might be able to take out inboard plate but you may have to re-rig the
friction. Then again it may be easy. The two holes you would need are the
two that are most inline with the quadrant levers so you get a straight line
for the cables reducing the chances of binding. As far as hole distance I
found that the only think I had to worry about was getting the wrench on the
jam nuts to tighten them down. I ran into a bit of a problem with the
inboard on and ended up using a hydraulic line wrench and a pair of needle
nose pliers. Really...putting the two holes for the cables anywhere on the
mounting plate will work fine as long as you can get the wrenches in there.
Mike Robertson
former RV-8A owner
>From: Mark Navratil <czechsix(at)juno.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Throttle Quadrant
>Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 13:20:26 -0400 (EDT)
>
>
>Guys, I have a couple questions about the throttle quadrant setup on an
>8/8A
>(sent an e-mail to Vans a few days ago and haven't heard back yet...)
>
>I purchased Vans 2 lever throttle quadrant. The quadrant bolts to the left
>side console F-8100A (RV-8 has a different part number here), and I am
>wondering if the inboard plate on the quadrant could just be removed and
>left out? The plans aren't real clear on this....seems like redundant
>weight to me, and the F-8100A appears more than strong enough to handle the
>loads here (albeit a bit thinner than the plate currently on the quadrant).
>
>Also, on the plans it shows the throttle cable anchor F-864E with 3 holes.
>Since I am not using a prop lever, I assume that I need only two holes and
>that these are the top 2? And if so, can I put the holes closer together
>or
>will the nuts anchoring the cable housing interfere with each other? Just
>curious because the plans show a 1" spacing between the top two holes, but
>my throttle and mixture levers are only 3/4 " apart.
>
>Thanks,
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
At Sun N Fun, I talked to the manufacturer. They are making avail the
same unit in a different format (rectangular). The digity read out was a
little bigger, and thus, better for my tired old eyes. As I understand
it, it has the same guts.
Barry Pote RV9a Wings
Mike Robertson wrote:
>
>
> Yes, Its called a MicroAir 760. Its total weight is 14 oz. and fits in a 2
> 1/4 inch hole. The US distributer is EDMO Distributers out of spokane, WA.
> Their Number is 1-800-235-3300. They won't sell to you idrectly but will be
> able to give you who your closest shop is. I actually went down to the EDMO
> shop and held this little jewel in my hands. While I haven't tried it on an
> aircraft yet, it is very small, very light weight, and the switches are easy
> to move. There were two versions, an unlite and a lighted. I would
> recommend the lighted one. The price was also very nice. At that time it
> was $850-$950 depending on which version. The company is also making a
> tranponder although it was not out yet when I was there.
>
> Mike Robertson
> Former RV-8A owner
>
> >From: RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.)
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: Radio
> >Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 11:12:42 -0500 (CDT)
> >
> >
> >I have a space problem in the panel of my RV4 .I need to replace my
> >Terra com.Was there an Aussy com.radio of a small dimension a few months
> >ago on the list?
> >
> >Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Constant Speed Prop for Sale |
I've decided I would like to go with an MT prop on my -8. Accordingly, I
have a McCauley B2D34C214-B constant speed propeller for sale. This is
similar to the prop Lewis Smith used on his RV-8 -- see
http://members.aol.com/lousmith/page/rv.html. This propeller has been
overhauled by East Coat Propeller Service and has 1122 TT and 0 SMOH. Asking
$3900/offer. I will ship CONUS.
Rick McBride
rickrv6(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris & Susie" <rv6(at)ssc.net.au> |
The new radio will be avialable at Oshkosh we have been told.. It has been
completely re designed and has a proper intercom. Look at there site for
details and photos. Will be putting the new model in our 6. It is much
better than older model but you might get old model heaps cheaper.
Chris RV6
VH-MUM Reserved
----- Original Message -----
From: barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 7:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Radio
>
> At Sun N Fun, I talked to the manufacturer. They are making avail the
> same unit in a different format (rectangular). The digity read out was a
> little bigger, and thus, better for my tired old eyes. As I understand
> it, it has the same guts.
> Barry Pote RV9a Wings
>
> Mike Robertson wrote:
> >
> >
> > Yes, Its called a MicroAir 760. Its total weight is 14 oz. and fits in
a 2
> > 1/4 inch hole. The US distributer is EDMO Distributers out of spokane,
WA.
> > Their Number is 1-800-235-3300. They won't sell to you idrectly but
will be
> > able to give you who your closest shop is. I actually went down to the
EDMO
> > shop and held this little jewel in my hands. While I haven't tried it
on an
> > aircraft yet, it is very small, very light weight, and the switches are
easy
> > to move. There were two versions, an unlite and a lighted. I would
> > recommend the lighted one. The price was also very nice. At that time
it
> > was $850-$950 depending on which version. The company is also making a
> > tranponder although it was not out yet when I was there.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> > Former RV-8A owner
> >
> > >From: RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.)
> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >Subject: RV-List: Radio
> > >Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 11:12:42 -0500 (CDT)
> > >
> > >
> > >I have a space problem in the panel of my RV4 .I need to replace my
> > >Terra com.Was there an Aussy com.radio of a small dimension a few
months
> > >ago on the list?
> > >
> > >Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Comm Antenae |
I think putting the antenna in the gear leg fairings is a very bad idea. As a
rule of thumb, any antenna (especially the tip) wants to be at least 1/4
wavelength away from the nearest conductive thing. (There are some exceptions
here as with a bent whip antenna.) At 120MHz, 1/4 wavelength is about 2 feet.
Having it a couple of inches away from a conductor that runs its whole length
is going to grossly distort the antenna pattern. It may well not work at all.
You can't just put an antenna anywhere that there's room for it. Mine is going
to be on the belly just forward of the bagage area to get it as far away from
the gear legs as possible. The transponder and GPS operate wavelengths of
about 10 inches, so 1/4 wavelength is 2.5" so you have many more choices of
where to put those.
--
Tom Sargent. RV-6A - Wings done.
"Benson, Bradley" wrote:
>
> Or how about down one of the gear leg fairings? I've seen a number of
> folks make reference to doing this and this is what I plan to do with mine.
> At this early point in the game, I think I'll be able to keep most of the
> antennas inside, save for the GPS disk.
>
> Cheers,
> Brad
> RV6A Underway...
>
>
> > Since we are on the subject, I am considering the foil windscreen comm
> antennae like
> > Van's uses on some of their prototypes. Anyone have good or bad comments
> on this
> > setup? My airplane is an RV-6A Slider and I have a Terra 720.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Stribling <bbattery(at)bendcable.com>
Subject: RV-List: bleed valve
>I am down to plumbing my brake system and am a mechanic by trade so why
does
>the bleed valve for the calipers show as being on the bottom when the
>trapped air will be at the top
Ken: Near as I can figure out, the so called bleed valve is on the bottom
because the brake line is on top. The calipers appear to be the same,
whether used on the right or on the left. Whether you fill from the top or
from the bottom, there is a good chance that you will not purge all the air
from the fitting on the top, which is typically a 90 degree elbow. The only
way I was able to eliminate the last bit of air was by cracking the fitting
nut and in effect, bleeding it there.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Hobenshield <edhob(at)kermode.net> |
>
>
>Anyone know of an RV-6 for sale that is well built and well maintained?
>Local guy has the checkbook out but just can't find a clean one.
>
>Thanks
>
>Eric
>
Try barnstormers2000.com. I have my 6 lisred and there are others also.
Ed H.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 02/23/01 |
Gentlemen, and ladies,
I looking for 3/8 prop bolts. I think I need AN6 -82. Suggestions? Using
Aymar Demuth prop and Van's 2 1/4 extension and crush plate.
Thanks,
Dan
81243 Finishing kit
N417SN reserved.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: S-Cowl Browning 6A |
I was reading some archive letters on the topic of exhaust heat overheating
the cowl. Several people talked about ways to combat it, here are two.
> > 3) The solution was to RTV on a pair (one each side) of 0.020 aluminum
pads
> > onto the cowl. Larry said to use high temp RTV and put a bead around
the
> > perimeter and a few dabs on the inside to space it off the cowl. The
idea
> > is to make a dead air space between aluminum and cowl like a Thermopane
> > window. Larry also advised me to use aluminum instead of stainless
steel
> > because the aluminum has better thermal properties in this application.
> >
>
> Just a thought: There are a couple of products in the ACS catalog which
are
> appropriate for this application: Fiberfrax and Koolmat. My
understanding
> is that many people have adhesion problems with Fibrefax and the
recommended
> glue. The Koolmat glues on with RTV and I've got a couple of linear feet
of
> the stuff just waiting to be installed...
So is this necessary? What are you flying guys finding?
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
Hi Chris and others,
I am beginning to look into and make decisions re the panel. The Microair is
on the list of items that as yet have not been eliminated. the fact that
they might have a transponder in the offing has kept them on the list. If
they now have gone over to the standard aviation radio equipment layout with
the new radio and transponder I will advance them up the list.
Am I right in interpreting from what I've seen on the list today that their
new product line will fit the standard radio stack?
Flying is fun, Take off eh!
Jim in Kelowna, fiddling with LSE ignition system fitting
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris & Susie <rv6(at)ssc.net.au>
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 3:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Radio
>
> The new radio will be avialable at Oshkosh we have been told.. It has been
> completely re designed and has a proper intercom. Look at there site for
> details and photos. Will be putting the new model in our 6. It is much
> better than older model but you might get old model heaps cheaper.
>
> Chris RV6
> VH-MUM Reserved
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 7:34 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Radio
>
>
> >
> > At Sun N Fun, I talked to the manufacturer. They are making avail the
> > same unit in a different format (rectangular). The digity read out was a
> > little bigger, and thus, better for my tired old eyes. As I understand
> > it, it has the same guts.
> > Barry Pote RV9a Wings
> >
> > Mike Robertson wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Yes, Its called a MicroAir 760. Its total weight is 14 oz. and fits
in
> a 2
> > > 1/4 inch hole. The US distributer is EDMO Distributers out of
spokane,
> WA.
> > > Their Number is 1-800-235-3300. They won't sell to you idrectly but
> will be
> > > able to give you who your closest shop is. I actually went down to
the
> EDMO
> > > shop and held this little jewel in my hands. While I haven't tried it
> on an
> > > aircraft yet, it is very small, very light weight, and the switches
are
> easy
> > > to move. There were two versions, an unlite and a lighted. I would
> > > recommend the lighted one. The price was also very nice. At that
time
> it
> > > was $850-$950 depending on which version. The company is also making
a
> > > tranponder although it was not out yet when I was there.
> > >
> > > Mike Robertson
> > > Former RV-8A owner
> > >
> > > >From: RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.)
> > > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > >Subject: RV-List: Radio
> > > >Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 11:12:42 -0500 (CDT)
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >I have a space problem in the panel of my RV4 .I need to replace my
> > > >Terra com.Was there an Aussy com.radio of a small dimension a few
> months
> > > >ago on the list?
> > > >
> > > >Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Fairing |
Glenn,
I hope the fairing you refer to was one of mine. I'm pretty good with
fiberglass but the paperwork is a whole other story. Just got to get
ORGANIZED.
It is designed to have three screws in front, one in front of each stabalizer
and four on each side in back. This would be what I would consider minimum.
If there is any place where there are gaps between the fairing and the plane
it might be a good idea to put one there. I think I would put six small, #6
screws , in the lower fairings, more or less evenly spaced in pairs.
More questions just ask.
Sorry for the delay answering. With a 40 hour job, the fairings, four flight
students,and taking Sonya's Cessna 150 apart so we can bring it home to paint
it, I didn't get to the e-mail when I should.
Your order[ come to think of it] probably wound up in the "new stuff
notification" book.
Bob
Web site www.fairings-etc.com
another e-mail bob@fairings-etc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Fairing screws, BUT |
I think my fairing would stay on with two screws in back, but, think what a
hell-of-a speed brake it would make if the front did get loose.
Please, everyone that has mine, put three in front. I like the idea of four
on each side in back.
Bob
Fairings-Etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Size of FI servo vs. carb |
I'm considering putting the PowerLink FADEC system on my RV-8A. I would
strip the fuel injection system and mags off a new IO-360-A1B6 and install
the FADEC system in their place.
The FADEC throttle bottle is dimensionally the same as the Marvel carb that
comes on the O-360-A1A - they anticipate a big upgrade market in this area
so this makes sense.
So here's the question: how do the dimensions of the IO-360-A1B6 throttle
body compare to the Marvel carb on the O-360-A1A? My worry is that the
FADEC throttle body, since it's sized to match the carb, would be a lot
bigger than that on the stock IO-360-A1B6. This engine has a forward
mounted intake, and extending it forward would make it difficult/impossible
to fit in the stock cowling, which is pretty tight to start out with.
Basically I'm too lazy to get involved in a big cowl project. I know this
will earn me the scorn of the rotary guys, but this is my first plane and
I'd like to get it flying.
Also, if anyone has any idea what the mags and FI system from the
IO-360-A1B6 would be worth if I sold them I'm curious...
Also if anyone's interested there's a bunch of new info up on their site at
www.fadec.com . The price of the system has gone up a bunch since I put my
deposit down- I think it's around $8K at this point once you add it all up.
Ouch! Technological progress may have to wait, at least for me...
Matthew
-8A canoe - er - I mean fuselage!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
I have a friend with a LongEze that was concerned that my 6 was going to
be faster than his airplane so he upgraded to an O-320 and now has his
235 for sale. The prop probably won't do you RV-9 guys any good tho.
Dave
Following is what he gave me:
O-235 for sale, 1500 TTSN
Originally an L2C, modified with custom high compression pistons, 125
hp.
B&C starter, oil cooler, carburetor, motor driven and electric fuel
pump,
etc. complete less mags and harness.
$5500
Also available, 6 inch prop extension and propeller, removed from LongEz
call Ron at (310) 532-3596
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 5/2/2001 10:46:34 PM Central Daylight Time,
jjewell(at)okanagan.net writes:
> I am beginning to look into and make decisions re the panel. The Microair is
> on the list of items that as yet have not been eliminated. the fact that
> they might have a transponder in the offing has kept them on the list. If
> they now have gone over to the standard aviation radio equipment layout with
> the new radio and transponder I will advance them up the list.
> Am I right in interpreting from what I've seen on the list today that their
> new product line will fit the standard radio stack?
>
> Flying is fun, Take off eh!
>
> Jim in Kelowna, fiddling with LSE ignition system fitting
there is a company in australia selling the radio for 550 us shipped.
Australian dollar is really low so there are great buy right now
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aerox Oxygen System |
--- Norman Hunger wrote:
>
> Does any one have one of these? Comments?
>
> http://www.aerox.com/
>
> I'm a couple of years away from flying but I at least want to get the
> mounting bracket installed. Any comments on putting the bracket on
> the right
> side of the RV6 luggage area?
>
> Thank-you,
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
April 26, 2001 - May 02, 2001
RV-Archive.digest.vol-kq