RV-Archive.digest.vol-kr
May 02, 2001 - May 09, 2001
I have been using one of their 9 cu feet units for the past 3 years. I
just sit mine behind the right seat but in front of the MANUAL flap. I
wrap it in a towel before I sit it in the airplane. I plug the pilot
(left seat) directly into the regulator and have an extension hose that
goes to the right of the right seat for the copilot. This separates
the needle valves and allows each pilot to adjust his own supply.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
788+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Fairing screws, BUT |
--- Imfairings(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I think my fairing would stay on with two screws in back, but, think
> what a
> hell-of-a speed brake it would make if the front did get loose.
> Please, everyone that has mine, put three in front. I like the idea
> of four
> on each side in back.
> Bob
> Fairings-Etc.
I made my own fairing and only have two (2) #4 screws in the front and
two (2) # 6 screws in the back. I have been using this set up for
almost 800 flying hours. Paul Rosales (April Sport Aviation "11 Hours
to Oshkosh") also only has 2 screws in the front and two in the back.
He has over 400 flight hours in 10 months. Both of us have the
fiberglass extending in front around the horizontal Stab. The design
is such that it will not leave the airplane will all the screws out.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
788+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nancy and Walter Shipley" <wshipley(at)esper.com> |
I installed the Microair radio in my 8A. I'm not flying yet so I can't
comment on how the unit works, but installation wise it was perfect for my
needs. I had originally considered other radios (Icom, King, etc) but
they're a lot heavier and protrude so far forward that wiring them can be a
hassle.
The Microair is only 5.2" long and is easily wired. Speaking of which, I
bought my radio from Electric Bob complete with a wiring harness, which is
a big time saver. Don't know if Bob still sells the Microair, but if not,
B&C may.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Walt Shipley RV 8A N314TS
Engine Installation Soon (I hope)
----------
> From: CW9371(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Radio
> Date: Thursday, May 03, 2001 1:21 AM
>
>
> In a message dated 5/2/2001 10:46:34 PM Central Daylight Time,
> jjewell(at)okanagan.net writes:
>
>
> > I am beginning to look into and make decisions re the panel. The
Microair is
> > on the list of items that as yet have not been eliminated. the fact
that
> > they might have a transponder in the offing has kept them on the list.
If
> > they now have gone over to the standard aviation radio equipment layout
with
> > the new radio and transponder I will advance them up the list.
> > Am I right in interpreting from what I've seen on the list today that
their
> > new product line will fit the standard radio stack?
> >
> > Flying is fun, Take off eh!
> >
> > Jim in Kelowna, fiddling with LSE ignition system fitting
>
> there is a company in australia selling the radio for 550 us shipped.
> Australian dollar is really low so there are great buy right now
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aerox Oxygen System |
Hi Norman, I have 13cu' system and I consider it one of the best bank for
the buck purchases I've ever made. I spent a long time trying to figure out
where to put it from a safety/ease of use/out of the way standpoint. I
finally ended up mounting it in the passenger-side rear corner of the
baggage compartment. It's out of the way and I can reach it in flight to
turn it on/off and adjust the flow valves. I can also look over my shoulder
and read the remaining pressure.
I didn't want the thing flying forward in an accident so I mounted the
bracket through the baggage wall and the bulkhead on the outboard side and
the wall on the inboard side. I also built a doubler behind the wall that
ties both bolts to the bulkhead. It's not coming out unless it pulls half
of the fuselage through the baggage wall. I only use it on trips, so I
always make sure I pack something snuggly between it and the passenger seat
as an added precaution.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)micron.net
> Does any one have one of these? Comments?
>
> http://www.aerox.com/
>
> I'm a couple of years away from flying but I at least want to get the
> mounting bracket installed. Any comments on putting the bracket on the
right
> side of the RV6 luggage area?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rpflanze(at)iquest.net |
Just a quick note to anyone that knows of someone interested in buying a flying
RV-6. Mine is up for sale so that I can build again (number three!)
Only one year old, but a proven cross-country machine. This airplane is top-of-the-line
in both performance and appearance. All new parts used in construction. Check
out http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-6and6a/files. Click on N417G to view
complete airplane description, parts list, and pictures.
In the mean time, I am still planning my two-week swing through the West in
June with my son. Got to get one more cross-county adventure in before building
again.
Thanks.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (145 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Size of FI servo vs. carb |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Size of FI servo vs. carb
Thread-Index: AcDTkzQ3pYAgzqRdS7O00pMxrwojiQARhpww
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
A few years ago I recall a short blurb in Sport Aviation about someone
who was developing an electronic engine control system (electronic
ignition and fuel injection) made from off-the-shelf automotive
components. I heard from a friend recently the same people are still at
it and the cost of the unit is $1500, it'd be worth taking a look at. I
don't know the name of the company or if they are on the web anywhere.
>Also if anyone's interested there's a bunch of new info up on their
site at
>www.fadec.com . The price of the system has gone up a bunch since I
put my
>deposit down- I think it's around $8K at this point once you add it all
up.
>Ouch! Technological progress may have to wait, at least for me...
>Matthew
>-8A canoe - er - I mean fuselage!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | broken hinge eyes |
Thread-Topic: broken hinge eyes
Thread-Index: AcDT21UI5PiepjhWSG6XsCqVths0zw=
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Hi Gang,
Last night I replaced a section of broken hinge on the bottom right side
of the cowl, and of the four hinge eyes that were broken (only the cowl
hinge eyes broke) none of them failed from the inside corners-they all
failed at the aft most tangent of the loop portion of the hinge. In my
case, filing/sanding the corners wouldn't have prevented the failures.
Just wanted to pass this on.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 123 hours
Kokomo, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Comm Antenae |
In the course of aerodynamically cleaning up my RV-6, I briefly tried a
gear leg com antenna. I had just installed new fiberglass gear leg
fairings, and the possibility of getting the com antenna out of the
breeze was attractive. Bernie Kerr, a Florida RV pilot, told me about
his successful use of a gear leg antenna (I saw him at S-N-F and he is
still using the antenna) so I decided to give it a try.
The antenna is merely a piece of RG-58 coax with the braid stripped back
22 inches. The exposed inner conductor is attached to the trailing edge
of the fiberglass fairing with a couple of nylon cable clamps and the
braid is grounded at the fuselage.
I only made one test flight with the intention of further tests.....but
I just haven't gotten around to further testing due to the pressing need
to attend as many pancake breakfasts as possible. Initial trials proved
the antenna worked, albeit with less efficiency than the external whip.
I flew out about ten miles from DCU, tuned in the AWOS, and flew in a
large shallow circle. There were definite nodes where the signal changed
strength as the orientation of the plane changed in respect to the
transmitter. The girls in the FBO said my radio transmissions sounded ok
but a little weaker than usual.
Bernie is pleased with the internal antenna on his plane, and I have
intentions of going back to the antenna to try to tweak it further. I
realize the antenna theoretically isn't supposed to work very well, but
there may be ways to get acceptable performance depending on how
efficient a particular installation needs to be.
Ah yes......experimental aircraft........ain't it fun!
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 Classic)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
========================
tom sargent wrote:
>
>
> I think putting the antenna in the gear leg fairings is a very bad idea. As
a
> rule of thumb, any antenna (especially the tip) wants to be at least 1/4
> wavelength away from the nearest conductive thing. (There are some exceptions
> here as with a bent whip antenna.) At 120MHz, 1/4 wavelength is about 2 feet.
> Having it a couple of inches away from a conductor that runs its whole length
> is going to grossly distort the antenna pattern. It may well not work at all.
> You can't just put an antenna anywhere that there's room for it. Mine is going
> to be on the belly just forward of the bagage area to get it as far away from
> the gear legs as possible. The transponder and GPS operate wavelengths of
> about 10 inches, so 1/4 wavelength is 2.5" so you have many more choices of
> where to put those.
>
> --
> Tom Sargent. RV-6A - Wings done.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | FW: Transponder certification |
The latest date from MicroAir on their new transponder. I'll not hold my
breath. They've been saying "It'll be certified in a couple of months..."
for over year now. I guess it isn't easy making all the certifying
authorities happy.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Neil Abernethy [mailto:nabernethy(at)microair.com.au]
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 6:12 PM
Subject: Re: Transponder certification
G"Day Scott
We will have Australia TSOand we hope US TSO by Oshkosh.
Thank's
Neil Abernethy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com
>
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 10:44 AM
Subject: Transponder certification
> Hello there. When are you blokes going to get that transponder
certified?
> I'm tired of looking at that hole in my panel! Looking forward to
it and
> best of luck!
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Comm Antenae |
In a message dated 05/03/2001 7:43:00 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
sbuc(at)hiwaay.net writes:
> Bernie is pleased with the internal antenna on his plane, and I have
> intentions of going back to the antenna to try to tweak it further. I
> realize the antenna theoretically isn't supposed to work very well, but
> there may be ways to get acceptable performance depending on how
> efficient a particular installation needs to be.
>
> Ah yes......experimental aircraft........ain't it fun!
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6 Classic)
> "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
Hi All,
It has been demonstrated the a standard coax connector will work as an
antenna for about a one mile range.
Tracy Saylor tried the gear leg antenna. It works also. But he has gone to
something else, because he didn't like only being able to talk to the tower
when he was close (about 10 to 15 miles range).
A RVator stated that Van's wingtip antenna received the Hillsboro ATIS for 30
miles and the windshield tape antenna for 40 miles.
If there is anyone is interested, I am in the process of making molds for Bob
Archer's vertical stabilizer COM antenna for the RV-3, RV-4 and RV-6(A).
Using Bob Archer's vertical stabilizer antenna, I was 86 miles out from the
Hillsboro Airport at 4,500' when I first tried to receive their ATIS, and it
was already there.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Tail Fairing screws, BUT |
I just bought an empennage fairing from Bob at Fairings-Etc.
Imfairings(at)aol.com
Man alive they fit like a glove... straight out of the box, best (and
cheapest) "Good Looking" investment I've made on my RV-4. Anyone want my
old Van's fairings contact me off list, cuz' I'll never need them.
Chuck
> --- Imfairings(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> > I think my fairing would stay on with two screws in back, but, think
> > what a
> > hell-of-a speed brake it would make if the front did get loose.
> > Please, everyone that has mine, put three in front. I like the idea
> > of four
> > on each side in back.
> > Bob
> > Fairings-Etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Okay, what's their email, phone #, or way to contact them. I want one too.
> there is a company in australia selling the radio for 550 us shipped.
> Australian dollar is really low so there are great buy right now
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 5/3/2001 10:45:54 AM Central Daylight Time,
crabaut(at)coalinga.com writes:
> Okay, what's their email, phone #, or way to contact them. I want one too.
>
>
> > there is a company in australia selling the radio for 550 us shipped.
> > Australian dollar is really low so there are great buy right now
it was in the homebuild experimental airplane news group. Propbably can do
a search on deja to find it.
rec.aviation.homebuilt is the newsgroup, just look for it
chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | When do I install the empennage fairing? |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
17, 2001) at 05/03/2001 01:31:57 PM
I am nearing completion of my -4 and would like some advice regarding
installation of the empennage fairing. It has been recommended to me by at
least one builder that I hold off building/installing the fairing until
after I have test flown the aircraft. The rationale is that with the 180hp
engine and constant speed prop, I may need to change the angle of incidence
of the horizontal stabilizer. I would like to install the fairing now and
be done with it, but don't want to wind up making two.
Can some of you -4 flyers with the big engines and C.S. props provide me
with some guidance. Thanks in advance.
Dean Pichon
RV-4
Arlington, MA
**** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one of
Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may contain
confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee
only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not
the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Compression Test |
I have a question for the engine gurus out there. I have completed a differential
compression check on my used, high time Lycoming engine. Per books I've read
I got the cylinder to be tested on the compression stroke brought the piston
to Top Dead Center by applying a about 15psi and moving the prop until there
was no resistance. The test on #1 cylinder net 62/80 and I could hear the air
in the oil filler hole and not any in the intake or exhause ports.
However, when I moved the prop past TDC then back the other way to the compression
stroke and then back to TDC again, the test was 72/80 with the piston at TDC.
Which reading is correct? Did my moving the piston back and forth seat the rings?
or did I somehow cause a false reading. Both readings were taken with the
piston at TDC and the prop had no resistance.
The other cylinders had 74/80, 72/80, 74/80.
Thanks,
Eric Newton
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 5/3/01 8:45:39 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
crabaut(at)coalinga.com writes:
<< Okay, what's their email, phone #, or way to contact them. >>
Try http://www.mcp.com.au/microair/
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Comm Antenna |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
05/03/2001 01:35:30 PM
Is there a golden rule that says you can only have one antenna per radio?
Can you split the signal and put one antenna in the wind screen and one in
the gear leg? There are lots of RV's around here that are using just one
antenna in the gear leg and have no problems, at least the function of the
radio fits their flying style. Then again Floridas highest peak is the
Coconut Creek Dump (breathtaking in the winter time). So what say ye
listers?
Eric Henson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Compression Test |
the correct reading was 72/80. I assume you did this
with the engine being cold. You will find with the
engine warm that your pressures will increase
somewhat. The hissing you heard was the air blowing by
the piston rings. When you put the engine in an
unloaded position that is where the valve overlap
begins i.e. the valve train is unloaded, and the air
is only pushing on the piston (in essence). What you
did by releasing the prop and bringing it back up to
top dead center was in essence preloading the piston
rings so they "took a seat" It is an indication
however that this cylinder is getting tired. I would
run the engine up to operating temperature and recheck
the differential pressure note the increased pressures
per cylinder and write these numbers down in a lead
pencil on your baffling or a place you won't forget
about, repeat the process every 25 hours and note the
decay. Once it reaches it's limits as per the engine
manual it is time to replace some cylinders. *note*:
the bottom end of your engine will more than likely be
okay but if the engine has reached it's T.B.O. it
would be a good idea to tear the engine down and send
everything out just to make sure all is okay with the
internal workings of the engine. (peace of mind) this
is a more costly adventure but it is your hind end in
the airplane up there.
for what it's worth
Glenn Williams
do not arvchive
--- ENewton57(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I have a question for the engine gurus out there. I
> have completed a differential compression check on
> my used, high time Lycoming engine. Per books I've
> read I got the cylinder to be tested on the
> compression stroke brought the piston to Top Dead
> Center by applying a about 15psi and moving the prop
> until there was no resistance. The test on #1
> cylinder net 62/80 and I could hear the air in the
> oil filler hole and not any in the intake or exhause
> ports.
> However, when I moved the prop past TDC then back
> the other way to the compression stroke and then
> back to TDC again, the test was 72/80 with the
> piston at TDC.
> Which reading is correct? Did my moving the piston
> back and forth seat the rings? or did I somehow
> cause a false reading. Both readings were taken
> with the piston at TDC and the prop had no
> resistance.
> The other cylinders had 74/80, 72/80, 74/80.
> Thanks,
> Eric Newton
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
I recently replaced a brake caliper on my -6A. Our fine Tech Counselor, Gary
LeGare, brought
over a "pressure brake bleeder" which is $6 garden spray bottle that has a
small pump .Gary
modified the spray tip to accept clear tubing that connects to the bleeder
screw.
The unit is filled with hydraulic fluid , pumped to pressurize, and attached
to the bleeder screw at
the bottom of the caliper.
I emptied the reservoir on the firewall, the bleeder screw was opened, and I
monitored the fluid as it backed
filled the reservoir. The whole process took a couple of minutes. I did have
to pump the pedals a couple of times
to open the path from the caliper to the reservoir.
The Garden Sprayer is available at the Home Depot for under $7. I have
already bought my own and will keep
it on hand for future use.
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gordon or Marge Comfort [SMTP:gcomfo(at)tc3net.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 4:56 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: bleed valve
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ken Stribling <bbattery(at)bendcable.com>
> Subject: RV-List: bleed valve
>
>
> >I am down to plumbing my brake system and am a mechanic by trade so why
> does
> >the bleed valve for the calipers show as being on the bottom when the
> >trapped air will be at the top
>
>
> Ken: Near as I can figure out, the so called bleed valve is on the bottom
> because the brake line is on top. The calipers appear to be the same,
> whether used on the right or on the left. Whether you fill from the top
> or
> from the bottom, there is a good chance that you will not purge all the
> air
> from the fitting on the top, which is typically a 90 degree elbow. The
> only
> way I was able to eliminate the last bit of air was by cracking the
> fitting
> nut and in effect, bleeding it there.
>
> Gordon Comfort
> N363GC
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Yikes on those prices! I certainly hope those are in Aussie dollars! I
bought my MicroAir 760 from Aircraft Spruce for $750. They have specials on
and off throughout the month. Depending on when you call it will range in
price from $750 - $850 US.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com [mailto:HCRV6(at)aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 10:35 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Fw: RV-List: Radio
In a message dated 5/3/01 8:45:39 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
crabaut(at)coalinga.com writes:
<< Okay, what's their email, phone #, or way to contact
them. >>
Try http://www.mcp.com.au/microair/
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Actually, if those prices are in Austrailian dollars, it appears to be much
cheaper to buy from them. Unless I'm missing something. That's quite
likely.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com [mailto:HCRV6(at)aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 10:35 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Fw: RV-List: Radio
In a message dated 5/3/01 8:45:39 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
crabaut(at)coalinga.com writes:
<< Okay, what's their email, phone #, or way to contact
them. >>
Try http://www.mcp.com.au/microair/
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 5/3/2001 1:45:06 PM Central Daylight Time,
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com writes:
> Yikes on those prices! I certainly hope those are in Aussie dollars! I
> bought my MicroAir 760 from Aircraft Spruce for $750. They have specials on
> and off throughout the month. Depending on when you call it will range in
> price from $750 - $850 US.
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
the us price from that company is 550 shipped. exchange rate
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: When do I install the empennage fairing? |
>
> I am nearing completion of my -4 and would like some advice regarding
> installation of the empennage fairing. It has been recommended to me by
at
> least one builder that I hold off building/installing the fairing until
> after I have test flown the aircraft. The rationale is that with the
180hp
> engine and constant speed prop, I may need to change the angle of
incidence
> of the horizontal stabilizer. I would like to install the fairing now and
> be done with it, but don't want to wind up making two.
>
> Can some of you -4 flyers with the big engines and C.S. props provide me
> with some guidance. Thanks in advance.
>
> Dean Pichon
> RV-4
Dean.
I just asked Larry Vetterman that same question. I too am building a 180 hp
C/S RV-4 and also own a flying version of the same configuration. In my
flying -4, the elevator is deflected down slightly in normal cruise flying
solo, and somewhat more with a passenger (HS angle of incidence as per
plans). The issue is to add a #10 washer under the HS attachment point to
bring the LE of the HS up slightly. The elevator would fly more in trail.
It's certainly not a big deal. Just depends on what you want to see when
you turn your head around and look. Larry recommended adding one washer,
make the fairing, and live with it.
Doug Weiler
N722DW building
N464EM flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Compression Test |
>
>I have a question for the engine gurus out there. I have completed a
>differential compression check on my used, high time Lycoming engine. Per
>books I've read I got the cylinder to be tested on the compression stroke
>brought the piston to Top Dead Center by applying a about 15psi and moving
>the prop until there was no resistance. The test on #1 cylinder net 62/80
>and I could hear the air in the oil filler hole and not any in the intake
>or exhause ports.
>However, when I moved the prop past TDC then back the other way to the
>compression stroke and then back to TDC again, the test was 72/80 with the
>piston at TDC.
>Which reading is correct? Did my moving the piston back and forth seat the
>rings? or did I somehow cause a false reading. Both readings were taken
>with the piston at TDC and the prop had no resistance.
>The other cylinders had 74/80, 72/80, 74/80.
>Thanks,
>Eric Newton
Eric,
With my experiences with TWO cracked cylinder jugs, I think I can help. It
does matter from which direction the prop comes up to TDC. The rings do
have a small bit of tilt and will seal differently depending on what
direction the TDC position is achieved...i.e, did you get there from going a
bit past TDC then coming backwards, or did you keep the prop moving in the
forward direction and stop at TDC without any amount of "hunting" to find
it?
I've found that it works best to come up slowly on TDC, in normal direction
of rotation..smoothly and note the max pressure on the bleed-down gauge as
you pass through TDC. This gives an idea of instantaneous compression.
Then, go ahead and feel around for TDC, with the prop telling you (by not
wanting to go either way on it's own) when you've gotten there. See how the
pressure holds now. Also, listen closely for air leaks. If you can hear
something in the oil filler tube, it's likely leaking past the rings. It IS
possible for the rings to get aligned with the ring gaps aligned, and thus
allow for excessive leakage. In a questionable situation like this, go run
the engine again for a few minutes, then check it and see if the same sound
of leakage can be heard again.
Try placing your hand over the exhaust pipe that is associated with this
particular cylinder. Does the sound change or can you feel anything on your
hand? If so, you have a leaking exhaust valve or (drumroll) a cracked jug.
Yikes.
For a quick check to see if your rings are the culprit, you can squirt some
oil into the plug hole, then run the compression test again. If the
compression improves, then the oil is helping to seal the rings. Time for a
ring job and/or perhaps a cylinder overhaul.
Also, with my latest cracked jug, I was showing 58/80, whereas the first jug
failure held only 10/80. Goes to show you that you can have cylinder cracks
and still produce power.
My gut instinct is that you just have a worn out set of rings. I'll say a
few prayers to the Cylinder gods for you today. ;)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
replacement jug going on tomorrow.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Comm Antenna |
Eric,
I do not know the civil practice, but in the Navy's aircraft, there is an
antenna on the top and one on the bottom. They are NOT just spliced together
but use an RF switch to shift from one antenna to the other. Theu use a
fairly expensive control circuit to switch back and forth and then lock to
one when a message is detected. The point is that the impedance match and
power out is adversely affected using other techniques such as splices or
splitters. I plan to use one on the bottom aft of the wing.
Bill Christie, RV8A fuselage, Phoenix.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 10:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Comm Antenna
>
>
> Is there a golden rule that says you can only have one antenna per radio?
> Can you split the signal and put one antenna in the wind screen and one in
> the gear leg? There are lots of RV's around here that are using just one
> antenna in the gear leg and have no problems, at least the function of the
> radio fits their flying style. Then again Floridas highest peak is the
> Coconut Creek Dump (breathtaking in the winter time). So what say ye
> listers?
>
> Eric Henson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 5/3/2001 1:47:57 PM Central Daylight Time,
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com writes:
> Actually, if those prices are in Austrailian dollars, it appears to be much
> cheaper to buy from them. Unless I'm missing something. That's quite
> likely.
it is cheaper to buy from them the us price is listed for 550 about, the
currency converter is on their website
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: When do I install the empennage fairing? |
In a message dated 5/3/01 10:34:11 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com writes:
>
> Can some of you -4 flyers with the big engines and C.S. props provide me
> with some guidance. Thanks in advance.
>
> Dean Pichon
> RV-4
>
I put Vans fairing on with duct tape and test flew it. I indeed had to
re shim the front stabilizer. About another 1/8 "
Fred LaForge RV-4 180 CS EAA tech counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Chris,
Thanks I just ordered one. Cost is about $550.oo plus $47.oo s&h, with
a total of $597.oo that's much better than I've found elsewhere. Now we'll
see how long it takes to get here.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 5/3/2001 5:26:58 PM Central Daylight Time,
crabaut(at)coalinga.com writes:
> Chris,
>
> Thanks I just ordered one. Cost is about $550.oo plus $47.oo s&h, with
> a total of $597.oo that's much better than I've found elsewhere. Now we'll
> see how long it takes to get here.
>
> Chuck
>
according to people in the news group that ordered them, it took less then a
week
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | rv9a trailing edge wedge problems |
Things were going really well on my rv9a ailerons until I went to do the
trailing edge double headed rivets.
When I clecoed the aileron flat to a very flat table, and put big bags
of dirt on the 1 x 4 that the manual suggests, it layed flat. It looked
good. And I drilled at the 84 degree angle, with a template. I deburred
and dimpled.
1st, there was no way to 'put the rivets in and tape them and use them
to align the skins It was not going to happen. With out the weights
holding the skins down, the trailing edge was very wavy. Is this what
others have experienced? If I explained it correctly to Ken at Van's
yesterday. He said it was normal.
Did you guys start in the middle and work out?
It almost seemed that the lenght of rivets called for were too short.
I tried the avery back rivet plate. It was coming out wavy so I stopped
and drilled out those rivets. I then made a 4 ft 3 x 3 angle iron
backing plate. It was straight as I riveted, but when I took the weight
off, it got wavy in several spots.
I fear the holes are getting too big from setting and being drilled
out. It was 90 degrees in NJ today and humid. Maybe I should not have
worked with it that hot, this early.
Are there any rivets that I can use to save this project?
Any suggestions about technique?
Any similar problems?
Barry V9a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
Where did you buy it from?
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chuck Rabaut
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 2:23 PM
Subject: Re: Fw: RV-List: Radio
Chris,
Thanks I just ordered one. Cost is about $550.oo plus $47.oo s&h, with
a total of $597.oo that's much better than I've found elsewhere. Now we'll
see how long it takes to get here.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Comm Antenna |
In a message dated 05/03/2001 10:40:49 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com writes:
> Is there a golden rule that says you can only have one antenna per radio?
> Can you split the signal and put one antenna in the wind screen and one in
> the gear leg? There are lots of RV's around here that are using just one
> antenna in the gear leg and have no problems, at least the function of the
> radio fits their flying style. Then again Floridas highest peak is the
> Coconut Creek Dump (breathtaking in the winter time). So what say ye
> listers?
>
> Eric Henson
>
Hi Eric,
I asked Bob Archer the same type of question for two wingtip COM antenna's.
He says there will be a dead spot for every two feet of separation between
the antenna's. Twenty feet apart, ten dead spots. Two feet apart, one dead
spot.
IMHO; one, or ten, you don't want dead (no reception) spots.
Jim Ayers
LessDragProd(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Higgins, John J." <john_higgins(at)merck.com> |
| Subject: | Airflow Performance Injection System |
Having sold the other pieces of my RV-8 QB, I still have a complete Airflow
Performance RV6/8 fuel injection kit (including purge valve option) for
sale. Will let it go for $400 below my cost of $2670. Interested parties,
pls reply off line
John Higgins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Weyant <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv9a trailing edge wedge problems |
I am just completing this task on the flaps and ailerons . Mine are
straight. I laid six bags of lead shot on flap skins at the ribs - not
inbetween the ribs - and drilled. Then when it came time to rivet I used
four bags of leadshot (again on the ribs evenly spaced with a bag on the end
ribs always. Everything worked out except Van's shorted me on the '3'
rivets. I suppose 3.5's will work okay. I'm just gonna keep on riveting!
Chuck RV9A (Starting the fuselage next week!)
barry pote wrote:
>
> Things were going really well on my rv9a ailerons until I went to do the
> trailing edge double headed rivets.
>
> When I clecoed the aileron flat to a very flat table, and put big bags
> of dirt on the 1 x 4 that the manual suggests, it layed flat. It looked
> good. And I drilled at the 84 degree angle, with a template. I deburred
> and dimpled.
>
> 1st, there was no way to 'put the rivets in and tape them and use them
> to align the skins It was not going to happen. With out the weights
> holding the skins down, the trailing edge was very wavy. Is this what
> others have experienced? If I explained it correctly to Ken at Van's
> yesterday. He said it was normal.
>
> Did you guys start in the middle and work out?
>
> It almost seemed that the lenght of rivets called for were too short.
>
> I tried the avery back rivet plate. It was coming out wavy so I stopped
> and drilled out those rivets. I then made a 4 ft 3 x 3 angle iron
> backing plate. It was straight as I riveted, but when I took the weight
> off, it got wavy in several spots.
>
> I fear the holes are getting too big from setting and being drilled
> out. It was 90 degrees in NJ today and humid. Maybe I should not have
> worked with it that hot, this early.
>
> Are there any rivets that I can use to save this project?
>
> Any suggestions about technique?
>
> Any similar problems?
>
> Barry V9a wings
>
--
Regards,
Chuck Weyant
WebSite: www.chuckdirect.com
EMail Me: chuck(at)chuckdirect.com
Santa Maria, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: S-Cowl Browning 6A |
| From: | Michael D Hilger <rvsixer(at)juno.com> |
Norman
I have a -6 with the S-cowl and Vetterman exhaust with Robbins muffs.
The left side was starting to cook a little (nicely browning) so I used
the .020 aluminum/RTV trick. Seems good after 20 hrs or so. There were no
external signs on the left and no evidence at all on the right side. Just
keep an eye on yours and if it starts to brown, make the fix. It's a
rather gradual process (at least it was on mine).
Mike Hilger
RV-6 N207AM
First flight - 12-21-00, 60 hrs to date
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
What do you all think about the VAL 760 TSO? You can get them for $595
Complete with tray, connector kit, wiring schematic and operator's manual,
$695 with 15' pre-wired tefzel wiring harness...
http://www.valavionics.com/com_760_tso.htm
They also recently started selling their INS 422 Integrated Navigation
System for $2695... It's a VOR, Localizer, Glideslope, & Marker Beacon all
in one...
http://www.valavionics.com/ins_422_tso.htm
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelsonhoffrv9(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rv9a trailing edge wedge problems |
The skins are pretty wavy prior to putting on the weight and riveting. I
haven't riveted the aileron yet but have riveted the flap which is
essentially the same process. I have drilled both ailerons and used the same
technique as below for the flap and plan to use it again when I rivet. I will
have to buy more seed since the little birdies in my yard have been eating my
weights.
I found that weighing it down uniformly helped. I used two 2X6" boards
sitting on the 2" edges about 6' long over the entire length of the flap
located between clecoes. Trying to be environmentally friendly I used 20#
bags of bird seed laid on top of the boards. I think I used 4 bags on the
flaps. Everything laid down nicely both for the drilling and for the
riveting. In a couple of places there is a very small gap between rivets but
nothing I'm going to worry about.
I used the recommeded length rivets and they seemed to work fine. While they
appear to be short they flatten down nice inside the dimple. I did the back
rivet and then flip over per the plan instructions. It was easy enough that I
wouldn't recommend putting a lot of effort into a more creative technique.
I didn't have the empennage kit yet so didn't have the drawing or template
mentioned in the plans to use as a guide. Vans assumes, incorrectly in my
case, that you have ordered the tail kit first. I just eyeballed it to drill
what looked like a line perpendicular with the chord line. it worked fine.
Curt Hoffman Loveland, OH
RV-9A (N912WK reserved)
Working on Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>What do you all think about the VAL 760 TSO? You can get them for $595
>Complete with tray, connector kit, wiring schematic and operator's manual,
>$695 with 15' pre-wired tefzel wiring harness...
>http://www.valavionics.com/com_760_tso.htm
That's what I have in my airplane. LOVE it. I bought mine from Chief
Aircraft. Only one glitch in 200 hours of operation. The middle segment in
a seven segment LED array burned out. I emailed the service department, and
they said if I wanted a quick fix, just pull the face plate off and swap it
out with the left-most LED unit. They are socketed so no soldering is
required. I'll likely do that this weekend. The newer units have the drive
current for the display lowered to reduce the wear on the LEDs.
>They also recently started selling their INS 422 Integrated Navigation
>System for $2695... It's a VOR, Localizer, Glideslope, & Marker Beacon all
>in one...
>http://www.valavionics.com/ins_422_tso.htm
I want one of these too! They have been unavailable for a long time and the
new one is updated. The original design engineer passed away, so it really
set them back. It looks like they've found a replacement. I received an
email from them recently stating that they have a deal for the first 100
orders. If you want one..you might want to jump on it now.
An RV-4 buddy of mine has one of the original models and has used it on
numerous instrument approaches and just loves it. It's got to be the best
bang for the buck out there.
I know that the COM is a pretty long unit, almost a foot long, and it was a
challenge to get the wiring harness at the end of the tray routed neatly so
it would not rub on the baggage hold bulkhead, but it worked out well. With
this in mind, the prewired harness might not be bundled to allow the wires
to make an immediate, hard 90 degree turn to the side or down. I'd check on
that before you order the prewired option. I wired it myself to suit the
application and had no difficulties.
>
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Fairing screws, BUT |
Gary,
Mine is designed the same way and I don't see how it could get loose. It may
be that I'm getting to be a conservative OLD POOP. However, I like the idea
of screws in front.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: broken hinge eyes |
> Last night I replaced a section of broken hinge on the bottom right side
> of the cowl, and of the four hinge eyes that were broken (only the cowl
> hinge eyes broke) none of them failed from the inside corners-they all
> failed at the aft most tangent of the loop portion of the hinge. In my
> case, filing/sanding the corners wouldn't have prevented the failures.
> Just wanted to pass this on.
>
> Bob Japundza
A while back someone posted a URL about hinges made out of epoxy fiberglass.
I went and took a look (http://www.flash.net/~infaero/) and they look pretty
promising. No one responded publicly to the original post which surprises
me. Seems like that could be a great solution to hinge-breaking problems...?
Is there really no one who's tried these things? I probably will if (when) I
have any cowl hinges break.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~200 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 5/3/01 9:48:36 PM Pacific Daylight Time, nhunger(at)sprint.ca
writes:
<< I'm unable to get the brass insert all the way in. What's the trick?
Lubricant? Heat? >>
Norman: I haven't done it yet but I just ran across an article that appeared
in RVator awhile back which said to put the end of the tube in "almost
boiling" water for "a full minute" before trying to push the insert in. I'm
sure you will get more knowledgeable answers from others on the list.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
"
\"Randy Griffin\"" ,
"Jeff Jasinsky" ,
"Bruce Beauchamp"
| Subject: | First flight report! |
Listers,
That day that every builder thinks about constantly for the entire duration
of the project, that day that is all that keeps us going sometimes, that day
that we plan a million times in advance, finally happened for me. The Great
Northwest gave me a break today with a bright sunny day, no wind, and
moderate temperatures... couldn't have been more perfect to bring the
results of all that work to a focal point. After taking my time in final
prep to make *sure* the plane was ready, and after proper transition
training to make sure that *I* was ready, it was time for the moment of
truth. Nervous? Heck yes. Excited? You bet. Focused? Absolutely.
I pulled N558RL onto runway 26, paused for a moment and re-checked yet again
all the controls, the fuel pump, the trim, the engine gauges, etc., etc.,
reviewed the flight plan yet again in my mind, then eased the throttle in.
It didn't miss a beat and lifted off perfectly. Man that O-360 and constant
speed prop really puts you back in the seat! Because of the odd airspace at
Pearson Airpark (VUO) where I am based my first flight was a few trips
around the pattern. It went perfectly though. The first landing was even a
greaser (lucky). I taxied back and enjoyed a celebratory bottle of water
with everyone and de-cowled it. Only one minor little oil leak on a rocker
box drain. The small crowd left and my buddy Bruce and I reviewed our plan
for the second flight which would get me out of Pearson airspace to do some
real flying.
About an hour later we departed Pearson for more open area. As I exited the
area at around 150 mph I began a climb to 5,000 feet. It felt great, just
like the RV-8 I had my dual in. I began to go through the checks on my
kneeboard. Power off stalls were 69 mph clean and 60 mph with full flaps. I
was noticing an abnormally high CHT reading on #3 which concerned me so I
kept the airspeed up, but all of the other cylinders were right around or
below 400 so I began to suspect the sensor I have on #3. It's different than
the other three because it has two leads: one for the E.I. gauge and one for
the Lasar system.
I formed up on Bruce's C172 for some airspeed comparisons. We flew at
exactly 70 and then 130... my indication matched his exactly, a good sign
since certified aircraft are supposed to have all the installation error
removed. Then I stabilized in a high speed cruise at 3,000 feet, 2,500 rpm
and 23" MAP and made some notes:
Rudder trim: dead center (I put an aluminum tab on and pre-bent it very
slightly to the left)
Aileron trim: slightly heavy left wing
Elevators: horns maybe 1/2" high of direct trail
Oil temp: 194 degrees F
CHTs: all around 390 except #3 which was 475 (yikes!)
EGTs: all around 1190 without any leaning
Airspeed: I forgot to record it (I know, this is what you really want to
know)
We landed at Scappoose, ate lunch, debriefed, discussed the CHT indication
problem, topped off, and I did another stall series, some cruise work to run
the engine, and back to the hangar. 1.9 hours on the plane today.
Squawks:
-#3 CHT sensor probably bad, need to switch sensors around to test it.
-Com antenna has a problem, already diagnosed as a bad connection at the
antenna, will fix tomorrow
-Fuel gauge is inop, but I have already ascertained that it is not the
sensors and just need to get into the wiring to find the problem.
There a lot left to do as well:
-Set center null on Navaid and make other adjustments, check operation (I
left it off today)
-Calibrate the E.I. fuel gauge once I get the wiring problem fixed.
-Figure out why my left fuel cap is weeping
-Swing the compass
-Make my upper gear leg intersection fairings
Whew, what a day! I can't tell you how happy I am with the plane. I am
thrilled that the oil temps are perfect and that it needs no trim
corrections other that probably squeezing the right aileron a tiny bit (I
think I'll call the guru in this area, Jerry VanGrunsven). My only conerns
were the #3 CHT and the com antenna. I should have the antenna fixed
tomorrow and will at least do some testing on the CHT situation tomorrow as
well.
I am using the RMI MicroEncoder as my sole pitot/static instrument. I found
the digital airspeed indication no problem to adapt to, but had a little
trouble adapting to the digital altitude... strange. I'm sure a few hours
will cure that. Then of course I need to work on my flying. I was
controlling my airspeeds fairly well today but my altitude control was not
good... need to work on that. Anyway, I've posted some pics at...
www.rv-8.com/CurrentStatus.htm
I'm beat, time for some sleep to dream about flying for real now.
Blue skies,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, N558RL, flying 1.9 hrs
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 5/3/01 11:48:48 PM Central Daylight Time,
nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes:
<< RV6A with the dual brakes; on the lines that go from the copilots pedals
over to the pilots pedals, I'm unable to get the brass insert all the way
in. What's the trick? Lubricant? Heat? >>
Norman,
I used a cup of boiling hot water. Have everything ready and dip the tip of
the tube into the hot water for about 30 seconds then quickly press the
fitting in. Don't forget to slip the nut part on the tube first.
Good luck
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (wiring)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: First flight report! |
In a message dated 5/4/01 1:07:46 AM Central Daylight Time, randy@rv-8.com
writes:
<< pulled N558RL onto runway 26, paused for a moment and re-checked yet again
all the controls, the fuel pump, the trim, the engine gauges, etc., etc.,
reviewed the flight plan yet again in my mind, then eased the throttle in.
It didn't miss a beat and lifted off perfectly. >>
Randy,
Excellent!!!! Congratulations - a real motivator for those of us looking
forward to that special day. Thanks for sharing with us.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (wiring)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv9a trailing edge wedge problems |
Barry,
I'm getting close to riveting flaps, ailerons won't be far behind. I don't
know if there is something fundamentally different about them compared to
the elevators and rudder. If it is the same, take a look at the technique I
used on the elevators; www.barefootpilot.com , click on photo link, look in
"Elevator" folder.
Note that the elevator is sitting on some plywood, set on edge, to get a
perfectly straight edge. The trailing edge of the elevator is clecoed to the
plywood, and notches are cut for the back rivet plate. You could do the same
thing on a table, but I didn't want to cut notches in my table for the back
rivet plate.
During the riveting process, the trailing edge started to get wavy and I
thought I would have to find another way, but as more rivets get installed,
it straightens out nicely.
Drop me a note if you have any questions.
Regards,
Cliff
>
> Things were going really well on my rv9a ailerons until I went to do the
> trailing edge double headed rivets.
>
> When I clecoed the aileron flat to a very flat table, and put big bags
> of dirt on the 1 x 4 that the manual suggests, it layed flat. It looked
> good. And I drilled at the 84 degree angle, with a template. I deburred
> and dimpled.
>
> 1st, there was no way to 'put the rivets in and tape them and use them
> to align the skins It was not going to happen. With out the weights
> holding the skins down, the trailing edge was very wavy. Is this what
> others have experienced? If I explained it correctly to Ken at Van's
> yesterday. He said it was normal.
>
> Did you guys start in the middle and work out?
>
> It almost seemed that the lenght of rivets called for were too short.
>
> I tried the avery back rivet plate. It was coming out wavy so I stopped
> and drilled out those rivets. I then made a 4 ft 3 x 3 angle iron
> backing plate. It was straight as I riveted, but when I took the weight
> off, it got wavy in several spots.
>
> I fear the holes are getting too big from setting and being drilled
> out. It was 90 degrees in NJ today and humid. Maybe I should not have
> worked with it that hot, this early.
>
> Are there any rivets that I can use to save this project?
>
> Any suggestions about technique?
>
> Any similar problems?
>
> Barry V9a wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rv9a trailing edge wedge problems |
> Are there any rivets that I can use to save this project?
>
> Any suggestions about technique?
>
> Any similar problems?
>
> Barry V9a wings
>
Barry,
I made a back rivet table with a piece of steel recessed into it that sat
flush with the table surface. During riveting of control surfaces the parts
were held flat with weights and slid along the steel plate. All my control
surfaces came out straight using this method. If your holes are getting a
little larger than 3/32 no problem, just use a longer rivet. There arent
enough 3-3 rivets in the kit anyway. I think I did start in the middle and
work both ways.
Kevin in WA -9A finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Chris,
I got a note from Michael Coates. Apparently most bank credit cards
block international sales without notice from their customers. I called
mine and they said after they left the block, the daily limit is between
$300-500. So I emailed Michael back and asked them to break it down to 2
separate transactions. I hope this works.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Bill,
I bought it on-line at http://www.mcp.com.au/microair/ also read the
other threads about using bank cards internationally.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Warm the line up with a hair dryer or heat gun & push into a wall or
something.
Don Jordan RV6A Arlington, Tx
*****************************************
writes:
>
> Hi guys,
>
> RV6A with the dual brakes; on the lines that go from the copilots
> pedals
> over to the pilots pedals, I'm unable to get the brass insert all
> the way
> in. What's the trick? Lubricant? Heat?
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
>Gary LeGare, brought over a "pressure brake bleeder" which is $6 garden
>spray bottle that has a
>small pump . The Garden Sprayer is available at the Home Depot for under
>$7. I have already bought my own and will keep
>it on hand for future use.
For years I have used a small pump oil can, the ones with a cylindrical
reservoir, a small pump handle and the spigot angled off at about 90
degrees, with some rubber tubing to connect to the brake nipple. It's metal
and can pump up some pretty good pressure. I wonder how durable the plastic
spray bottles would be...........
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
COM radio: consider the ICOM IC-A200, page 395 of ACS latest catalog.
Inexpensive, reliable, puts out some POWER. (Line boy: "I always know it's
you cuz your radio is so loud."). It has 9 memory channels, flip-flop to
stand-by. I have it wired to my Infinity control grip and can change and
flip-flop channels without touching the radio. Cool.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Oil filter maintenance |
Then at full throttle and little airspeed (takeoff), I'm seeing 25 or
26". This seems like a lot of loss. Anyone have
> > experience with a bypass around the filter? How about new and improved
> filter elements (bigger, better)?
Tis a good filter system, and probably the correct size for the engines we
use. However, one can be too generous with The Oil that makes the filter
work, which may slow the flow of air. Re oiling the filter is a practice of
Zen and the Art of Filter Maintenance. It should be done slowly over
several hours. It doesn't take much of The Oil to color the filter element,
which is all you want: in The Pink. So, you dab A LITTLE on the peaks of
the filter and go have a virtual smoke. Come back much later and see where
The Oil did ooz. Then add little drops in the areas that did not acquire
The Oil. If, after you install the filter you find a puddle of The Oil
under your airplane the next day, you have wasted precious Oil and stuffed
your filter with unnecessary goo. And your manifold pressure will show you
that.
Do not ask me how I have come to know these things......................
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aerox Oxygen System |
>I have 13cu' system and I consider it one of the best bang for the buck
>purchases I've ever made. I spent a long time trying to figure out where
>to put it from a safety/ease of use/out of the way standpoint...............
Anyone have one mounted in a -4?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Remaining and fuel gauges |
>it would be very helpful to know exactly how long the engine will run (at
>cruise, max
>endurance, or whatever) when the gauge shows 20, 10, 5% and ZERO..
Part of my fuel system preflight testing was to fill the tanks with a
gallon jug (!) and measure the exact amount of gas in the tanks, then drain
it out a gallon at a time to find how much came out (through the fuel line
to the engine). Now I know my unusable fuel (not much) and maximum flow in
gallons per minute. I also paused at each 4 gallons in and out (out of 16
per side) and did several tail-up tail-down configurations to see where on
the fuel gauges the needle sat at 4, 8, 12 and 16 gallons in level flight
and tail down. I listed the amount/indication in my flight manual. After
flying, I correlated that to actual conditions and it was very close. As
close as I would want to trust fuel gauges, which is not at all.
My fuel scanner is a Timex Triathlon watch cleverly attached to my panel.
Fits very nicely in the lower part of the Volt gauge to fill the blank
space there. Tanks are switched every half hour; the right tank is on when
the timer is on the (imaginary) right side of the clock face (first 30
minutes), left tank on when on the left side of the clock face. I can look
at the timer and confirm what tank I should have on.
I have a 2-3 hour butt. I plan my stops on butt time. Which coincides
nicely with a fuel reserve. At 3 hours I have over an hour of fuel left,
which, when you peer down into that tank is NOT MUCH but an adequate
reserve. (Great time to inspect the fuel tanks cuz they look EMPTY!) For
cross country I plan on 7.8 gph, even though I average 7.2.
I use the fuel gauges for amusement only.
Would I like a real Fuel Scanner (not JPI)? Yeah, I think about it now and
again. Maybe some day. The more information about vital fluids the better,
I think.
Fuel starvation sucks (no pun).
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
________________________________________________________________________________
Michael,
I used to use the same oil pump cans myself one for oil one for aircraft fluid.
But last time I lent out the aircraft one it never found its way back home (one
of the joys of being a Tech Counselor is being able to lend out your special
tools and then trying to remember to whom). Thus started the search for a
replacement. That was 6 years, about 10 airplanes and a couple of gallons of
the pink stuff ago, and it still works.
I like it better than the pump because;
You can see how much fluid is in it( it holds a quart, It's not one of those
big garden sprayers).
It's different enough looking that people remember to return it , at least so
far.
It makes bleeding the air out a lot easier.
You pump up the pressure once, open the bleeder valve, and press the button on
the tank to start the flow, have someone with a flashlight look in the
reservoir and tell you when the fluid starts to enter it. Shut the bleeder
valve off.
Repeat on the other side, your done.
Garry LeGare
RV6 Finishing
KostaLewis wrote:
>
> >Gary LeGare, brought over a "pressure brake bleeder" which is $6 garden
> >spray bottle that has a
> >small pump . The Garden Sprayer is available at the Home Depot for under
> >$7. I have already bought my own and will keep
> >it on hand for future use.
>
> For years I have used a small pump oil can, the ones with a cylindrical
> reservoir, a small pump handle and the spigot angled off at about 90
> degrees, with some rubber tubing to connect to the brake nipple. It's metal
> and can pump up some pretty good pressure. I wonder how durable the plastic
> spray bottles would be...........
>
> Michael
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Do your have a picture of your pressure bleeder or brand of sprayer, a
source?
I'd like to make one for the Emergency Aircraft Repair. Or maybe publish it
in the "Experimenter"
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org
or
experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Garry LeGare" <"versadek"@earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 1:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: bleed valve
>
> Michael,
> I used to use the same oil pump cans myself one for oil one for aircraft
fluid.
> But last time I lent out the aircraft one it never found its way back home
(one
> of the joys of being a Tech Counselor is being able to lend out your
special
> tools and then trying to remember to whom). Thus started the search for a
> replacement. That was 6 years, about 10 airplanes and a couple of gallons
of
> the pink stuff ago, and it still works.
> I like it better than the pump because;
> You can see how much fluid is in it( it holds a quart, It's not one of
those
> big garden sprayers).
> It's different enough looking that people remember to return it , at least
so
> far.
> It makes bleeding the air out a lot easier.
> You pump up the pressure once, open the bleeder valve, and press the
button on
> the tank to start the flow, have someone with a flashlight look in the
> reservoir and tell you when the fluid starts to enter it. Shut the bleeder
> valve off.
> Repeat on the other side, your done.
> Garry LeGare
> RV6 Finishing
>
>
> KostaLewis wrote:
>
> >
> > >Gary LeGare, brought over a "pressure brake bleeder" which is $6 garden
> > >spray bottle that has a
> > >small pump . The Garden Sprayer is available at the Home Depot for
under
> > >$7. I have already bought my own and will keep
> > >it on hand for future use.
> >
> > For years I have used a small pump oil can, the ones with a cylindrical
> > reservoir, a small pump handle and the spigot angled off at about 90
> > degrees, with some rubber tubing to connect to the brake nipple. It's
metal
> > and can pump up some pretty good pressure. I wonder how durable the
plastic
> > spray bottles would be...........
> >
> > Michael
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Cy,
I'll take a picture and get the brand & part number tonight. I will have to send
the picture direct to you as "The List" filters them out. I will also write up
how to install a piece of clear urethane tube permanently, so you it won't pop
off the tank. I think you'll like it.
Garry LeGare
RV6 Finishing
Cy Galley wrote:
>
> Do your have a picture of your pressure bleeder or brand of sprayer, a
> source?
>
> I'd like to make one for the Emergency Aircraft Repair. Or maybe publish it
> in the "Experimenter"
>
> Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley(at)qcbc.org
> or
> experimenter(at)eaa.org
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Garry LeGare" <"versadek"@earthlink.net>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 1:39 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: bleed valve
>
> >
> > Michael,
> > I used to use the same oil pump cans myself one for oil one for aircraft
> fluid.
> > But last time I lent out the aircraft one it never found its way back home
> (one
> > of the joys of being a Tech Counselor is being able to lend out your
> special
> > tools and then trying to remember to whom). Thus started the search for a
> > replacement. That was 6 years, about 10 airplanes and a couple of gallons
> of
> > the pink stuff ago, and it still works.
> > I like it better than the pump because;
> > You can see how much fluid is in it( it holds a quart, It's not one of
> those
> > big garden sprayers).
> > It's different enough looking that people remember to return it , at least
> so
> > far.
> > It makes bleeding the air out a lot easier.
> > You pump up the pressure once, open the bleeder valve, and press the
> button on
> > the tank to start the flow, have someone with a flashlight look in the
> > reservoir and tell you when the fluid starts to enter it. Shut the bleeder
> > valve off.
> > Repeat on the other side, your done.
> > Garry LeGare
> > RV6 Finishing
> >
> >
> > KostaLewis wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > >Gary LeGare, brought over a "pressure brake bleeder" which is $6 garden
> > > >spray bottle that has a
> > > >small pump . The Garden Sprayer is available at the Home Depot for
> under
> > > >$7. I have already bought my own and will keep
> > > >it on hand for future use.
> > >
> > > For years I have used a small pump oil can, the ones with a cylindrical
> > > reservoir, a small pump handle and the spigot angled off at about 90
> > > degrees, with some rubber tubing to connect to the brake nipple. It's
> metal
> > > and can pump up some pretty good pressure. I wonder how durable the
> plastic
> > > spray bottles would be...........
> > >
> > > Michael
> > >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight report! |
Randy: Good show Randy, looking forward to that day soon myself. My
RV-6AQB is finished certified, waiting for the airport to get the new runway
finished.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB N602RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
; "Jeff Jasinsky" ; "Bruce
Beauchamp"
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 2:05 AM
Subject: RV-List: First flight report!
>
> Listers,
>
> That day that every builder thinks about constantly for the entire
duration
> of the project, that day that is all that keeps us going sometimes, that
day
> that we plan a million times in advance, finally happened for me. The
Great
> Northwest gave me a break today with a bright sunny day, no wind, and
> moderate temperatures... couldn't have been more perfect to bring the
> results of all that work to a focal point. After taking my time in final
> prep to make *sure* the plane was ready, and after proper transition
> training to make sure that *I* was ready, it was time for the moment of
> truth. Nervous? Heck yes. Excited? You bet. Focused? Absolutely.
>
> I pulled N558RL onto runway 26, paused for a moment and re-checked yet
again
> all the controls, the fuel pump, the trim, the engine gauges, etc., etc.,
> reviewed the flight plan yet again in my mind, then eased the throttle in.
> It didn't miss a beat and lifted off perfectly. Man that O-360 and
constant
> speed prop really puts you back in the seat! Because of the odd airspace
at
> Pearson Airpark (VUO) where I am based my first flight was a few trips
> around the pattern. It went perfectly though. The first landing was even a
> greaser (lucky). I taxied back and enjoyed a celebratory bottle of water
> with everyone and de-cowled it. Only one minor little oil leak on a rocker
> box drain. The small crowd left and my buddy Bruce and I reviewed our
plan
> for the second flight which would get me out of Pearson airspace to do
some
> real flying.
>
> About an hour later we departed Pearson for more open area. As I exited
the
> area at around 150 mph I began a climb to 5,000 feet. It felt great, just
> like the RV-8 I had my dual in. I began to go through the checks on my
> kneeboard. Power off stalls were 69 mph clean and 60 mph with full flaps.
I
> was noticing an abnormally high CHT reading on #3 which concerned me so I
> kept the airspeed up, but all of the other cylinders were right around or
> below 400 so I began to suspect the sensor I have on #3. It's different
than
> the other three because it has two leads: one for the E.I. gauge and one
for
> the Lasar system.
>
> I formed up on Bruce's C172 for some airspeed comparisons. We flew at
> exactly 70 and then 130... my indication matched his exactly, a good sign
> since certified aircraft are supposed to have all the installation error
> removed. Then I stabilized in a high speed cruise at 3,000 feet, 2,500 rpm
> and 23" MAP and made some notes:
> Rudder trim: dead center (I put an aluminum tab on and pre-bent it very
> slightly to the left)
> Aileron trim: slightly heavy left wing
> Elevators: horns maybe 1/2" high of direct trail
> Oil temp: 194 degrees F
> CHTs: all around 390 except #3 which was 475 (yikes!)
> EGTs: all around 1190 without any leaning
> Airspeed: I forgot to record it (I know, this is what you really want to
> know)
>
> We landed at Scappoose, ate lunch, debriefed, discussed the CHT indication
> problem, topped off, and I did another stall series, some cruise work to
run
> the engine, and back to the hangar. 1.9 hours on the plane today.
>
> Squawks:
> -#3 CHT sensor probably bad, need to switch sensors around to test it.
> -Com antenna has a problem, already diagnosed as a bad connection at the
> antenna, will fix tomorrow
> -Fuel gauge is inop, but I have already ascertained that it is not the
> sensors and just need to get into the wiring to find the problem.
>
> There a lot left to do as well:
> -Set center null on Navaid and make other adjustments, check operation (I
> left it off today)
> -Calibrate the E.I. fuel gauge once I get the wiring problem fixed.
> -Figure out why my left fuel cap is weeping
> -Swing the compass
> -Make my upper gear leg intersection fairings
>
> Whew, what a day! I can't tell you how happy I am with the plane. I am
> thrilled that the oil temps are perfect and that it needs no trim
> corrections other that probably squeezing the right aileron a tiny bit (I
> think I'll call the guru in this area, Jerry VanGrunsven). My only conerns
> were the #3 CHT and the com antenna. I should have the antenna fixed
> tomorrow and will at least do some testing on the CHT situation tomorrow
as
> well.
>
> I am using the RMI MicroEncoder as my sole pitot/static instrument. I
found
> the digital airspeed indication no problem to adapt to, but had a little
> trouble adapting to the digital altitude... strange. I'm sure a few hours
> will cure that. Then of course I need to work on my flying. I was
> controlling my airspeeds fairly well today but my altitude control was not
> good... need to work on that. Anyway, I've posted some pics at...
> www.rv-8.com/CurrentStatus.htm
>
> I'm beat, time for some sleep to dream about flying for real now.
>
> Blue skies,
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, #80500, N558RL, flying 1.9 hrs
> www.rv-8.com
> Home Wing VAF
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | First flight report! |
Congrats Randy!
I'm happy to hear everything went well except a very few minor snags. It
must have been very exiting. Please keep us updated on your next test
flights.
Are (Working even faster on the wings...)
RV-8
C-GQRV (reserved)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
Sent: May 4, 2001 2:06 AM
Jeff Jasinsky; Bruce Beauchamp
Subject: RV-List: First flight report!
Listers,
That day that every builder thinks about constantly for the entire duration
of the project, that day that is all that keeps us going sometimes, that day
that we plan a million times in advance, finally happened for me. The Great
Northwest gave me a break today with a bright sunny day, no wind, and
moderate temperatures... couldn't have been more perfect to bring the
results of all that work to a focal point. After taking my time in final
prep to make *sure* the plane was ready, and after proper transition
training to make sure that *I* was ready, it was time for the moment of
truth. Nervous? Heck yes. Excited? You bet. Focused? Absolutely.
I pulled N558RL onto runway 26, paused for a moment and re-checked yet again
all the controls, the fuel pump, the trim, the engine gauges, etc., etc.,
reviewed the flight plan yet again in my mind, then eased the throttle in.
It didn't miss a beat and lifted off perfectly. Man that O-360 and constant
speed prop really puts you back in the seat! Because of the odd airspace at
Pearson Airpark (VUO) where I am based my first flight was a few trips
around the pattern. It went perfectly though. The first landing was even a
greaser (lucky). I taxied back and enjoyed a celebratory bottle of water
with everyone and de-cowled it. Only one minor little oil leak on a rocker
box drain. The small crowd left and my buddy Bruce and I reviewed our plan
for the second flight which would get me out of Pearson airspace to do some
real flying.
About an hour later we departed Pearson for more open area. As I exited the
area at around 150 mph I began a climb to 5,000 feet. It felt great, just
like the RV-8 I had my dual in. I began to go through the checks on my
kneeboard. Power off stalls were 69 mph clean and 60 mph with full flaps. I
was noticing an abnormally high CHT reading on #3 which concerned me so I
kept the airspeed up, but all of the other cylinders were right around or
below 400 so I began to suspect the sensor I have on #3. It's different than
the other three because it has two leads: one for the E.I. gauge and one for
the Lasar system.
I formed up on Bruce's C172 for some airspeed comparisons. We flew at
exactly 70 and then 130... my indication matched his exactly, a good sign
since certified aircraft are supposed to have all the installation error
removed. Then I stabilized in a high speed cruise at 3,000 feet, 2,500 rpm
and 23" MAP and made some notes:
Rudder trim: dead center (I put an aluminum tab on and pre-bent it very
slightly to the left)
Aileron trim: slightly heavy left wing
Elevators: horns maybe 1/2" high of direct trail
Oil temp: 194 degrees F
CHTs: all around 390 except #3 which was 475 (yikes!)
EGTs: all around 1190 without any leaning
Airspeed: I forgot to record it (I know, this is what you really want to
know)
We landed at Scappoose, ate lunch, debriefed, discussed the CHT indication
problem, topped off, and I did another stall series, some cruise work to run
the engine, and back to the hangar. 1.9 hours on the plane today.
Squawks:
-#3 CHT sensor probably bad, need to switch sensors around to test it.
-Com antenna has a problem, already diagnosed as a bad connection at the
antenna, will fix tomorrow
-Fuel gauge is inop, but I have already ascertained that it is not the
sensors and just need to get into the wiring to find the problem.
There a lot left to do as well:
-Set center null on Navaid and make other adjustments, check operation (I
left it off today)
-Calibrate the E.I. fuel gauge once I get the wiring problem fixed.
-Figure out why my left fuel cap is weeping
-Swing the compass
-Make my upper gear leg intersection fairings
Whew, what a day! I can't tell you how happy I am with the plane. I am
thrilled that the oil temps are perfect and that it needs no trim
corrections other that probably squeezing the right aileron a tiny bit (I
think I'll call the guru in this area, Jerry VanGrunsven). My only conerns
were the #3 CHT and the com antenna. I should have the antenna fixed
tomorrow and will at least do some testing on the CHT situation tomorrow as
well.
I am using the RMI MicroEncoder as my sole pitot/static instrument. I found
the digital airspeed indication no problem to adapt to, but had a little
trouble adapting to the digital altitude... strange. I'm sure a few hours
will cure that. Then of course I need to work on my flying. I was
controlling my airspeeds fairly well today but my altitude control was not
good... need to work on that. Anyway, I've posted some pics at...
www.rv-8.com/CurrentStatus.htm
I'm beat, time for some sleep to dream about flying for real now.
Blue skies,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, N558RL, flying 1.9 hrs
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | carburetor update and questions |
Listers:
I have replaced the 10-5135 drilled-out carburetor on my 160 hp O-320 with
the model the factory now ships to Van's OEM customers, namely the MA-4-SPA
10-5217 by Precision Airmotive (thanks, Dave Gasper). This was done in hopes
of correcting a vexing problem with sudden, brief engine roughness in cruise
that seemed to correlate better with warm weather than with any other
variable. I think it has fixed the problem, at least based on my one 20
minute flight so far after swapping the carbs. However, a change like this
brings with it a new set of problems as I try to dial in the new carb.
I need to know the proper temp range from rich to lean for EGT to be certain
this carb, as supplied, is not too lean, like the old 10-5135 off the Cessna
was. During my short flight at 60% power I found I could lean from full rich
to peak EGT with a resulting spread of 117 degrees F on cyl #3, which is the
one I usually watch as it peaks first. My recollection and a bit of digging
in the archives suggests this may not be enough spread. Is the carb behaving
too lean? It runs fine. I don't really want to take a drill to my new carb
jet! Do I have to go to higher power settings to get valid numbers? I plan
on flying a whole new set of tests to redetermine the leaning curves for all
4 cylinders since I have made this change - perhaps this weekend.
Another question: I tried to set the idle mixture on the carb by leaning to
stumbling point and then backing out a half-turn, but found that, at 700 rpm,
the idle set screw could be turned all the way in to the seat and the engine
still runs merrily along. The roughness at lean idle settings is so vague it
would be hard to use as a reference point. There is a wide spread (about 1
turn to about 2 turns out) where the idle rpm will give the desired 50 rpm
rise just before cutoff, so I don't find that particularly helpful either.
Can I just set it somewhere in the middle and forget it?
I experience a brief stumble somewhere around 1200 rpm as the throttle is
advanced. Ity is so mild, I doubt I will tinker with the accelerator pump
linkage setting, but maybe there are some pearls of wisdom for me there as
well.
Thanks in advance.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP
Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
Bill and All
I have a val com in my four and have been very pleased with it. I can talk
to other aircraft up to 100 miles away on a good day and constantly get
comments on how good it sounds.
The only slightly annoying feature is it does not hold the last frequency
entered when you turn it off, it defalts to the ground control frequency.
Good radio in my opinion.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
>
> What do you all think about the VAL 760 TSO? You can get them for $595
> Complete with tray, connector kit, wiring schematic and operator's manual,
> $695 with 15' pre-wired tefzel wiring harness...
> http://www.valavionics.com/com_760_tso.htm
>
> They also recently started selling their INS 422 Integrated Navigation
> System for $2695... It's a VOR, Localizer, Glideslope, & Marker Beacon
all
> in one...
> http://www.valavionics.com/ins_422_tso.htm
>
> Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: carburetor update and questions |
Bill: I have the same carbuerator you have off a new 0-320-D1A. I installed
it on my 0-320-B1A engine, initially I had a real bad stumble coming off
idle if I moved the throttle too fast. After adjusting the Idle mixture and
Idle speed (750RPM) it was a lot better but still a slight ruffness at about
1100RPM but not bad. It seemed like I had the mixture adjusted too lean.
The mixture and the idle speed must be adjusted togeather as one seems to
effect the other. After each Idle mixture check the engine needs to be
cleaned out by running up to about 1700RPM and then recheck. I have not
flown the aircraft yet, as you have but I feel it is going to meter a little
on the lean side. Let me know how you make out on your inflight testing.
What was the peak EGT? about 1400 degrees I would think. If so lean on the
rich side of peak, it should run smooth there. My opinion only.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB - Ready to fly.
----- Original Message -----
From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 7:47 PM
Subject: RV-List: carburetor update and questions
>
>
> Listers:
>
> I have replaced the 10-5135 drilled-out carburetor on my 160 hp O-320 with
> the model the factory now ships to Van's OEM customers, namely the
MA-4-SPA
> 10-5217 by Precision Airmotive (thanks, Dave Gasper). This was done in
hopes
> of correcting a vexing problem with sudden, brief engine roughness in
cruise
> that seemed to correlate better with warm weather than with any other
> variable. I think it has fixed the problem, at least based on my one 20
> minute flight so far after swapping the carbs. However, a change like
this
> brings with it a new set of problems as I try to dial in the new carb.
>
> I need to know the proper temp range from rich to lean for EGT to be
certain
> this carb, as supplied, is not too lean, like the old 10-5135 off the
Cessna
> was. During my short flight at 60% power I found I could lean from full
rich
> to peak EGT with a resulting spread of 117 degrees F on cyl #3, which is
the
> one I usually watch as it peaks first. My recollection and a bit of
digging
> in the archives suggests this may not be enough spread. Is the carb
behaving
> too lean? It runs fine. I don't really want to take a drill to my new
carb
> jet! Do I have to go to higher power settings to get valid numbers? I
plan
> on flying a whole new set of tests to redetermine the leaning curves for
all
> 4 cylinders since I have made this change - perhaps this weekend.
>
> Another question: I tried to set the idle mixture on the carb by leaning
to
> stumbling point and then backing out a half-turn, but found that, at 700
rpm,
> the idle set screw could be turned all the way in to the seat and the
engine
> still runs merrily along. The roughness at lean idle settings is so vague
it
> would be hard to use as a reference point. There is a wide spread (about
1
> turn to about 2 turns out) where the idle rpm will give the desired 50 rpm
> rise just before cutoff, so I don't find that particularly helpful either.
> Can I just set it somewhere in the middle and forget it?
>
> I experience a brief stumble somewhere around 1200 rpm as the throttle is
> advanced. Ity is so mild, I doubt I will tinker with the accelerator pump
> linkage setting, but maybe there are some pearls of wisdom for me there as
> well.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Bill Boyd
> RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP
> Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA
> Clifton Forge, VA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: carburetor update and questions |
> What was the peak EGT? about 1400 degrees I would think. If so lean on the
> rich side of peak, it should run smooth there. My opinion only.
> Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB - Ready to fly.
>
Harvey- I've learned from years on the list not to pay much attention to
absolute EGT readings; so much depends on probe location and other variables.
I did notice as a result of the recent piston change (7:1 to 8.5:1) that,
all else remaining the same, the EGT's dropped about 100 degrees at peak on
all cyls. I attribute this to more energy being released inside the
cylinders and less escaping down the exhaust pipes.
I may try a richer idle mix setting and see if it smooths out the transition
through 1200 rpm. One reason I have a bias toward lean idle is my old carb
was letting the engine run rough, belch black smoke, and even quit when
rolling out on bumpy turf runways. I suspect this (and my in-flight
anomalies) was due to a float problem rather than a mixture setting. Another
reason to favor lean idle mixture is plug fouling with avgas, which I try
always to use on takeoff and landing.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP
Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PlaneWizz(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: First flight report! |
Randy,
Congratulations!! Well Done!
Dave Pohl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
I have not been so lucky with my VAL 760. Have had it for 190 hours, 2.5
years. Just sent it to VAL two days ago for service for the second time.
Some of the segments of the LED's seem to go after about a year, one by one.
Before they burn out I would get comments from ATC and other aircraft that
they hear me clear but not so loud. Then the frequency of the comments
increased. In time I'd have to slowly crank the volume knob up to hear
others - to 3-4 o'clock position. Normally 10-11 o'clock position is
sufficient. Max volume is about 5 o'clock position. Then I'd get annoyed
and send it in. $200 each time. One more time and I would've spent enough
to buy a new one. I have a loran right underneath the VAL that may have
hindered cooling efficiency. VAL literature says that it shouldn't need
external cooling but... I may try to cool it externally and see if it helps.
Anh
N985VU
-6
Maryland
At 03:54 AM 05/04/2001, you wrote:
>
>
>>What do you all think about the VAL 760 TSO? You can get them for $595
>>Complete with tray, connector kit, wiring schematic and operator's manual,
>>$695 with 15' pre-wired tefzel wiring harness...
>>http://www.valavionics.com/com_760_tso.htm
>
>That's what I have in my airplane. LOVE it. I bought mine from Chief
>Aircraft. Only one glitch in 200 hours of operation. The middle segment in
>a seven segment LED array burned out. I emailed the service department, and
>they said if I wanted a quick fix, just pull the face plate off and swap it
>out with the left-most LED unit. They are socketed so no soldering is
>required. I'll likely do that this weekend. The newer units have the drive
>current for the display lowered to reduce the wear on the LEDs.
>
>>They also recently started selling their INS 422 Integrated Navigation
>>System for $2695... It's a VOR, Localizer, Glideslope, & Marker Beacon all
>>in one...
>>http://www.valavionics.com/ins_422_tso.htm
>
>I want one of these too! They have been unavailable for a long time and the
>new one is updated. The original design engineer passed away, so it really
>set them back. It looks like they've found a replacement. I received an
>email from them recently stating that they have a deal for the first 100
>orders. If you want one..you might want to jump on it now.
>An RV-4 buddy of mine has one of the original models and has used it on
>numerous instrument approaches and just loves it. It's got to be the best
>bang for the buck out there.
>
>I know that the COM is a pretty long unit, almost a foot long, and it was a
>challenge to get the wiring harness at the end of the tray routed neatly so
>it would not rub on the baggage hold bulkhead, but it worked out well. With
>this in mind, the prewired harness might not be bundled to allow the wires
>to make an immediate, hard 90 degree turn to the side or down. I'd check on
>that before you order the prewired option. I wired it myself to suit the
>application and had no difficulties.
>>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
OK, here's the situation, one's stuck halfway in and the ring thing is
nicely on the end. Should I try dipping this whole thing in boiling water?
And what about on the other end, do I dip it with the end thing on?
Thanks all for helping.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
> I used a cup of boiling hot water. Have everything ready and dip the tip
of
> the tube into the hot water for about 30 seconds then quickly press the
> fitting in. Don't forget to slip the nut part on the tube first.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph Zinkham" <reagle10(at)home.com> |
Norm,
Answer to first question, go for it!
Answer to second question, no ! Just the cut off end of tube, heat in the
boiling water then insert the bushing.
Ralph
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 11:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake Lines
>
> OK, here's the situation, one's stuck halfway in and the ring thing is
> nicely on the end. Should I try dipping this whole thing in boiling water?
>
> And what about on the other end, do I dip it with the end thing on?
>
> Thanks all for helping.
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
>
> > I used a cup of boiling hot water. Have everything ready and dip the
tip
> of
> > the tube into the hot water for about 30 seconds then quickly press the
> > fitting in. Don't forget to slip the nut part on the tube first.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
,
So I emailed these guys and asked what is coming out with a bigger screen.
I'm just trying to keep on top of the latest greatest color moving map. They
said Sharp is about to release a good 6 inch screen. Hitachi currently has
the Eplate at 8 inches but it is not very good in sunlight. They currently
recommend the 4 inch Ipaq.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
I have two Val's in my RV-6 and love them both. One has been in there since
1989 and the second one since about 1992. They are really great radios.
I have a very tight radio stack with no cooling and the radios get very hot
in the stack but so far no problems. I have to wonder if the problems you
have had are caused by some other problem in your electrical system?
Jerry Springer
>
>
> I have not been so lucky with my VAL 760. Have had it for 190 hours, 2.5
> years. Just sent it to VAL two days ago for service for the second time.
> Some of the segments of the LED's seem to go after about a year, one by one.
> Before they burn out I would get comments from ATC and other aircraft that
> they hear me clear but not so loud. Then the frequency of the comments
> increased. In time I'd have to slowly crank the volume knob up to hear
> others - to 3-4 o'clock position. Normally 10-11 o'clock position is
> sufficient. Max volume is about 5 o'clock position. Then I'd get annoyed
> and send it in. $200 each time. One more time and I would've spent enough
> to buy a new one. I have a loran right underneath the VAL that may have
> hindered cooling efficiency. VAL literature says that it shouldn't need
> external cooling but... I may try to cool it externally and see if it helps.
> Anh
> N985VU
> -6
> Maryland
>
> At 03:54 AM 05/04/2001, you wrote:
> >
> >
> >>What do you all think about the VAL 760 TSO? You can get them for $595
> >>Complete with tray, connector kit, wiring schematic and operator's manual,
> >>$695 with 15' pre-wired tefzel wiring harness...
> >>http://www.valavionics.com/com_760_tso.htm
> >
> >That's what I have in my airplane. LOVE it. I bought mine from Chief
> >Aircraft. Only one glitch in 200 hours of operation. The middle segment in
> >a seven segment LED array burned out. I emailed the service department, and
> >they said if I wanted a quick fix, just pull the face plate off and swap it
> >out with the left-most LED unit. They are socketed so no soldering is
> >required. I'll likely do that this weekend. The newer units have the drive
> >current for the display lowered to reduce the wear on the LEDs.
> >
> >>They also recently started selling their INS 422 Integrated Navigation
> >>System for $2695... It's a VOR, Localizer, Glideslope, & Marker Beacon all
> >>in one...
> >>http://www.valavionics.com/ins_422_tso.htm
> >
> >I want one of these too! They have been unavailable for a long time and the
> >new one is updated. The original design engineer passed away, so it really
> >set them back. It looks like they've found a replacement. I received an
> >email from them recently stating that they have a deal for the first 100
> >orders. If you want one..you might want to jump on it now.
> >An RV-4 buddy of mine has one of the original models and has used it on
> >numerous instrument approaches and just loves it. It's got to be the best
> >bang for the buck out there.
> >
> >I know that the COM is a pretty long unit, almost a foot long, and it was a
> >challenge to get the wiring harness at the end of the tray routed neatly so
> >it would not rub on the baggage hold bulkhead, but it worked out well. With
> >this in mind, the prewired harness might not be bundled to allow the wires
> >to make an immediate, hard 90 degree turn to the side or down. I'd check on
> >that before you order the prewired option. I wired it myself to suit the
> >application and had no difficulties.
> >>
> >Brian Denk
> >RV8 N94BD
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
I heated a coffee cup of water in the microwave for 3 minutes. Put the nut
on the line and submerged the end of the tube in the water for about 30
seconds(the nut is held out of the water), slide the ferrule on, then insert
the brass insert and use the longeron as a hard surface to push the insert
into the line.
Things to remember:
1. don't forget the nuts.
2. don't forget to thread the lines through the firewall support.
3. the ferrule must be very near the end of the line when the brass insert
is pressed in because there is no way the ferrule can be slid down if it is
too high!
4. don't tug on the line after it is screwed into the brass fitting until it
is cooled back down. If the line is still warm, you can actually pull the
line out of the ferrule. I know this to be true from experience!
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage/finish kit
> >
> > OK, here's the situation, one's stuck halfway in and the ring thing is
> > nicely on the end. Should I try dipping this whole thing in boiling
water?
> >
> > And what about on the other end, do I dip it with the end thing on?
> >
> > Thanks all for helping.
> >
> > Norman Hunger
> > RV6A Delta BC
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Crawford <toys(at)ufl.edu> |
wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net wrote:
>
>
> I have not been so lucky with my VAL 760.
Same here. Mine has been back to the shop 3 times. First it was the
burned out LED's, then I had lots of transmission problems that they
could never fix. Finally, I just told them to keep it, and I kept the
loaner. No problems since with the loaner, tho.
Next time, I'll go with the ICOM.
--
Tom Crawford
Gainesville, FL
N262TC
Mailto:toys(at)ufl.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jlock(at)centurytel.net |
----------
> From: Joe Hine <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Radio
> Date: Friday, May 04, 2001 7:32 PM
>
>
>
> Bill and All
>
> I have a val com in my four and have been very pleased with it. I can
talk
> to other aircraft up to 100 miles away on a good day and constantly get
> comments on how good it sounds.
>
> The only slightly annoying feature is it does not hold the last frequency
> entered when you turn it off, it defalts to the ground control frequency.
>
> Good radio in my opinion.
>
> Joe Hine
> RV4 C-FYTQ
>
>
> >
> > What do you all think about the VAL 760 TSO? You can get them for $595
> > Complete with tray, connector kit, wiring schematic and operator's
manual,
> > $695 with 15' pre-wired tefzel wiring harness...
> > http://www.valavionics.com/com_760_tso.htm
> >
> > They also recently started selling their INS 422 Integrated Navigation
> > System for $2695... It's a VOR, Localizer, Glideslope, & Marker Beacon
> all
> > in one...
> > http://www.valavionics.com/ins_422_tso.htm
> >
> > Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
> > RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
> > http://vondane.com/rv8a/
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Shear strength of #6 and #8 screws ... floor screws |
Does anyone know the shear strength of #6 and #8 screws? I've looked and
looked and can't find it anywhere. I'm replacing the LP-4 pop-rivets in my
floor with screws and am trying to figure out if I can use #6s or if #8s
would be required.
Matthew
-8A floor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
In a message dated Sat, 5 May 2001 10:31:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Norman Hunger"
writes:
<>
Try www.airnav.com
Eric Newton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tmosher" <tgmosher(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Shear strength of #6 and #8 screws ... floor screws |
Well, according to AC 43-13-1B:
"Self-tapping sheet metal screws (AN504, AN530, AN531 and NAS548)
may be used in blind applications for the temporary attachment of sheet
metal for riveting
and the permanent assembly of nonstructural assemblies."
"CAUTION: Self-tapping screws should never be used as a replacement
for standard screws, nuts, bolts, or rivets in any aircraft structure."
I assume you want to use self-tapping screws. Now, if you want to install a
bunch of nut-plates, you could use the appropriate AN screws.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew Gelber" <mgelber(at)pacbell.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2001 8:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: Shear strength of #6 and #8 screws ... floor screws
>
> Does anyone know the shear strength of #6 and #8 screws? I've looked and
> looked and can't find it anywhere. I'm replacing the LP-4 pop-rivets in
my
> floor with screws and am trying to figure out if I can use #6s or if #8s
> would be required.
>
> Matthew
> -8A floor
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shear strength of #6 and #8 screws ... floor screws |
Matt
I just went and did this. Go for the #8's....there is not that big a
weight diff. I drilled out a bunch of #6 platenuts. They ended up just
too finicky to install. I just do not thrust #6 screws in platenuts.
Too many sheared, even with boelube.
Gert
Matthew Gelber wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone know the shear strength of #6 and #8 screws? I've looked and
> looked and can't find it anywhere. I'm replacing the LP-4 pop-rivets in my
> floor with screws and am trying to figure out if I can use #6s or if #8s
> would be required.
>
> Matthew
> -8A floor
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Shear strength of #6 and #8 screws ... floor screws |
Hi Matthew,
After having a few #6s break off in the nut plates I'm inclined to suggest
using the #8s.
Jim in Kelowna
Does anyone know the shear strength of #6 and #8 screws? I've looked
and
> Matthew
> -8A floor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Shear strength of #6 and #8 screws ... floor screws |
In a message dated 5/5/01 6:54:24 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
mgelber(at)pacbell.net writes:
<< Does anyone know the shear strength of #6 and #8 screws? I've looked and
looked and can't find it anywhere. I'm replacing the LP-4 pop-rivets in my
floor with screws and am trying to figure out if I can use #6s or if #8s
would be required. >>
I would use 75% of tensile strength for shear. Tensile is 55,000 psi, so 40
Kpsi times the cross section in square inches would be the shear strength.
Minor diameter of #6 screw is around .100", #8 is around .126". Cross
section is 3.14159 X radius squared.
That calculates to 314 lbs for a #6 and 499 lbs for the #8.
Now having said all that, use the #8.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Shear strength of #6 and #8 screws ... floor screws |
RE: the dread...someone, somwehere told me that they wanted to do the
screws/nutplates on the floor, but couldn't bring themselves to do it
because of the increased work and small likelyhood of needing to remove the
floor. He ended up staying with the blind rivets. If the need to remove
the floor ever did occur, he would drill out the pops, enlarging the holes
to accept screws, then do all those nutplates.
Just another point of view.....
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
>
> #8 it is...
>
> Thanks a lot!
> PS- I've done the first twenty now and am eyeing the giant pile
> of nutplates
> that Vans sent me with a great deal of dread...
>
> Matthew
> -8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Wiegenstein" <johnw(at)hellerwiegenstein.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Brake Pedal Alignment |
OK, listers, I've been reading and lurking here off and on for some time
- and am trying to get this project moving again. Having recently
begun to apply the "work on it every day, at least a little, or it will
never get done" principle, I am at the point of mounting the brake
pedals (RV-6, O/H pedals) to the rudder bars. I understand the general
concept of aligning the brake pedals in the same plane, per the manual,
but I am having some difficulty seeing how this plays out given the fact
that the two rudder bars are mounted in different planes. It seems to
me that while you can align the bottom bars of the rudder pedals to be
in the same plane, the vertical angle of the 2 rudder bars is
necessarily going to differ, so that even if I align the brake pedals in
the same plane, that will only hold true for ONE position (presumably
neutral rudder) of the rudder bar assemblies. First, just what is the
alignment of the rudder pedals supposed to be, in terms of relationship
to vertical when at neutral rudder. Do the rudder cables automatically
set this via their length? Is there a risk of running out of rudder
travel (i.e., pedal towards firewall) if this is not done correctly?
Second, what rudder pedal location/position should I use when setting
the brake pedals in the same plane? Or, does none of this matter and
am I making this all a lot harder than it needs to be??
Couldn't find anything in the archives - and the plans/manual are pretty
sketchy here. Thanks in advance for your help!
John Wiegenstein
Hansville, WA
RV-6 S/N 23961
Almost ready to order finishing kit :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shear strength of #6 and #8 screws ... floor screws |
This is what I did:
drilled all holes #30.
got a small piece of steal, 1/8" thick.
drilled a #30 hole in it and locktite'd a piece of broken off #30 drill
in it. came from my 12" # 30 drillbit :-(
drilled the two #40 rivet holes in it.
your own $ 0.30 nutplate jig. ( did I ever tell you I have Dutch cheapo
genes )......( couldn't see spending $40 for a nutplate jig for the
occasion)
used small vicegrips to hold jig in place and just started drilling.
amazing how fast I drilled alll those nutplate holes.
I found an added benefit here. I could clamp the jig in place and have
two hands free to bend the long drillbit slightly to drill the plates
next to the skin.
Gert
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
>
> RE: the dread...someone, somwehere told me that they wanted to do the
> screws/nutplates on the floor, but couldn't bring themselves to do it
> because of the increased work and small likelyhood of needing to remove the
> floor. He ended up staying with the blind rivets. If the need to remove
> the floor ever did occur, he would drill out the pops, enlarging the holes
> to accept screws, then do all those nutplates.
>
> Just another point of view.....
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 fuse
> Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> Web: http://BowenAero.com
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> > #8 it is...
> >
> > Thanks a lot!
> > PS- I've done the first twenty now and am eyeing the giant pile
> > of nutplates
> > that Vans sent me with a great deal of dread...
> >
> > Matthew
> > -8A
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Brake Pedal Alignment |
John,
I played with this myself recently. When the rudder bars are at the nuetral
position, it is kind of hard to get the brake pedals to hang at the same
angle.You are right that the pedals will not remain parallal throughout
thier travel. As you push one forward, your toes want to push on the brake
even when you don't want it. In the archives I found some discussion of
this. Some builders have angled thier pedals forward a bit to avoid this. I
made several diferent brake pedal side tabs out of 1/4" plywood and tried
different configurations with the rudder bar assembly clamped to the bench
and numerous test fits into the fuselage to see what felt and looked right.
I ended up using the supplied side tab for one brake and making a very
different one out of flat stock for the other side. As for travel, I took
some measurements in a flying airplane, (Laird's - thanks, Pop) and if I
recall correctly, it was about 4 inches overall. That was about half of the
travel avalable before the rudder bars fouled each other. That means you can
mount the entire assembly further forward than the plans show, if you need
the legroom, with the limiting factor being the firewall on the right side
brake pedal. Laird made a few sets of mounting holes on the longerons for
adjustment. I haven't drilled mine yet pending final seating position. The
rudder bars hook up to the cables with flat links which you can make to
length for whatever position you mount them.
Good luck with it. It's not too hard once you get to playing around with it.
Ed Holyoke
6QB
From: "John Wiegenstein" <johnw(at)hellerwiegenstein.com>
>
> OK, listers, I've been reading and lurking here off and on for some time
> - and am trying to get this project moving again. Having recently
> begun to apply the "work on it every day, at least a little, or it will
> never get done" principle, I am at the point of mounting the brake
> pedals (RV-6, O/H pedals) to the rudder bars. I understand the general
> concept of aligning the brake pedals in the same plane, per the manual,
> but I am having some difficulty seeing how this plays out given the fact
> that the two rudder bars are mounted in different planes. It seems to
> me that while you can align the bottom bars of the rudder pedals to be
> in the same plane, the vertical angle of the 2 rudder bars is
> necessarily going to differ, so that even if I align the brake pedals in
> the same plane, that will only hold true for ONE position (presumably
> neutral rudder) of the rudder bar assemblies. First, just what is the
> alignment of the rudder pedals supposed to be, in terms of relationship
> to vertical when at neutral rudder. Do the rudder cables automatically
> set this via their length? Is there a risk of running out of rudder
> travel (i.e., pedal towards firewall) if this is not done correctly?
> Second, what rudder pedal location/position should I use when setting
> the brake pedals in the same plane? Or, does none of this matter and
> am I making this all a lot harder than it needs to be??
>
> Couldn't find anything in the archives - and the plans/manual are pretty
> sketchy here. Thanks in advance for your help!
>
> John Wiegenstein
> Hansville, WA
> RV-6 S/N 23961
> Almost ready to order finishing kit :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Brake Pedal Alignment |
John-
I will try to answer your concerns as you raise them --
>
>
First, just what is the
> alignment of the rudder pedals supposed to be, in terms of relationship
> to vertical when at neutral rudder.
The brake pedals should be vertical or slightly forward ( 2 degrees) when
the rudder pedals are centered. The reason for the slight forward incline of
the brake pedals is to assist some pilots feet from inavertantly applying
the brakes while taxiing. Some pilots set up the brake/ pedal combination
to vertical and then install a piece of heater hose over the rudder pedal
lower bar to give the extra spacing from the brake pedal. They also claim
that the hose gives better grip and less scuffing to their paint job.
Do the rudder cables automatically
> set this via their length?
The rudder cables will be the correct length after you make the adjustment
links that join the cable to the rudder pedals. Some adjustment can also be
made by moving the entire pedal assembly fore and aft on the longeron
angles. This will take care of most real tall or short pilots. By installing
the pedals at the extreme aft position - for someone short - you may run
into an interferance problem with the swaged end of the cable and the
vertical bulkhead the cable is routed through near the pedals. On the
extreme forward location you may find that you will have the pedals hit the
firewall.
Is there a risk of running out of rudder travel (i.e., pedal towards
firewall) if this is not done correctly?
Yes - see above answer. Usually the recommended method of installation is
to mount the rudder and the rudder stops, and then the length of pedal
travel will be made known to you at the forward end of the fuselage.
Depending on the length of your legs you can now determine what will fit at
the location you choose to install the pedal assembly. You may need to
comprimise a little either way. If you choose to move the pedals forward ,
be sure that on full extension of the pedal toward the firewall that you
still have enough room to apply the brakes. Usually it is a good practice to
leave at least one inch of extra space between the pedals and firwall when
you locate the pedals further forward than the plans specify.
> Second, what rudder pedal location/position should I use when setting
> the brake pedals in the same plane? Or, does none of this matter and
> am I making this all a lot harder than it needs to be??
This question is the same answer as the first on as far as I read your
question.
I hope this helps,
Douglas G. Murray RV-6 C-GRPA
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | re: Removable floor (was #6 and #8 screw size) |
Thought I should add the following comments to anyone contemplating the
removable floor:
Why do this? I wanted to make the floor at least partially removable in
case I install an autopilot. The trutrak install for the RV-8 goes behind
the footwell, so I wanted decent access to this area in case I wanted to get
there to install/service it.
Two factors come in pretty quick when you start studying the problem. The
first: with all the stiffeners riveted on, the floor skins cannot be
removed - they are trapped under the 805 and 806 bulkheads. The second- the
floor is structural so you have to be careful before you start modifying
anything it.
There was an earlier post (search archive on removable floor) about a way to
cut the floor into four pieces instead of two and hinging access doors, that
sounds like it makes a very nice install- but I was looking for something a
little easier even if it was a less elegant solution. The easiest thing I
could come up with was to cut two triangular pieces, about 1.5" on a side,
from each of the floor skins. These triangles are the parts that lie under
the 805 and 806 bulkheads. I will rivet these permanently to the floor, and
make a doubler underneath with nutplates that will tie this back in to the
main floor pieces.
With everything screwed down with number 8 screws this should be as strong
as the LP-4 rivets (but you should check with Vans).
If I could travel back in time 12 hours, I'd pop rivet the entire rear floor
down and only install the nutplates in front of the 806 bulkheads. Then if
I wanted autopilot access I could have just taken out the dozen nutplates in
that area and curled the floor out of the way providing great access to that
area with little trouble. I'd pop-rivet in the rest per Larry's suggestion
and install the nutplates later, if I ever had reason to go down in there.
I'm going the slow-build route so the loss of time installing the nutplates
is insignificant (I'd guess one longish day), but it does add weight, which
is a bad habit to get into...
Matthew
-8A fuse, nutplating, and clutching my lower back
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Brake Pedal Alignment |
> I understand the general
> concept of aligning the brake pedals in the same plane, per the manual,
> but I am having some difficulty seeing how this plays out given the fact
> that the two rudder bars are mounted in different planes. It seems to
> me that while you can align the bottom bars of the rudder pedals to be
> in the same plane, the vertical angle of the 2 rudder bars is
> necessarily going to differ, so that even if I align the brake pedals in
> the same plane, that will only hold true for ONE position (presumably
> neutral rudder) of the rudder bar assemblies. First, just what is the
> alignment of the rudder pedals supposed to be, in terms of relationship
> to vertical when at neutral rudder.
I started a big thread here when I was doing this about a year ago. By
polling opinions I decided to go with a slight tilt farward. Your feet don't
take a 90 degree at your ankles nor do your legs arrive at the pedals
parallel to the floor. I got enough replies from flying people to convince
me that the brake pedals need to lean forward a little. Pilots were
complaining of riding the brakes when they relaxed their feet. Some
mentioned that putting a rubber hose over the bottom rudder pedal frame bar
pulls their heels further rearward helping to tilt the pedals forward a bit.
I have done both and it feels natural and comphy. I can still easily apply
full brake travel but I am not flying yet.
Install the rudder frames into the fuse. Temp bolt them in. Install the
pedals and hang the master cylinders. Do not drill the .125 plate that joins
the master cylinders to the pedal frame; you are going to have to make new
ones (actually several times before I was happy). Use the factory ones as a
starting template. I positioned my brake pedals so that when looking
straight down on them, the top edge was even with the rear most edge of the
pipe. This is a slight angle. I get some more "Dutch" (tilt effect) by
adding the hose on the lower rudder pedal bar (also protecting the
inevitable paint rubbed off look there). I found nice black rubber hose that
looks like it belongs there. I slit it and glued it on. It will wear much
nicer than the bare paint spot I see in so many RV's.
Now once you have gotten them all the brake pedals lined up you can start
making new F-6117's. Like I said I had to do this a few times.
I am very happy with the results but I definately spent some extra time
here. My frames got painted twice because I had them painted the first time
when Van came out with the gusset mod. I religiosly sanded them down, mailed
them off, then repainted them when I got them back. I must have more time
than most invested in the pedals.
I also bought an extra pedal and mailed it to Steve Davis. This was last
year when he was still on this list and very willing to help RV builders. I
wanted him to use it as a template for a plastic overlay. I would love to
have custom "RV6A" covers on all of my pedals. It would give it a little
more "factory finish". If you paint your brake pedals they will wear through
very quickly and begin looking scruffly. A plastic overlay with custom
lettering would look very sharp there and it would have very good wear
properties with very little added weight. Call me vain but I think its a
great idea. Steve has yet to get back to me on this and it's been close to
a year. Any one else want to pick up the ball? I'll buy another one and mail
it off. I would prefer white writing inset on a medium grey surface. What do
others think?
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
nhunger(at)sprint.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Shear strength of #6 and #8 screws ... floor screws |
Hi Larry,
Most of us seem to come to the same conclusion regard to the cockpit floors.
The pop rivets are strong enough and in fact they can be drilled out if done
with care and re-riveted. this can in fact be done more than a few times
before having to go over to using screws and nutplates.
Waste a few pop rivets on a practice piece and you will see what I mean.
Jim in Kelowna
---- Original Message -----
From: Larry Bowen <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 5:25 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Shear strength of #6 and #8 screws ... floor screws
>
He ended up staying with the blind rivets. If the need to remove
> the floor ever did occur, he would drill out the pops, enlarging the holes
> to accept screws, then do all those nutplates.
>
> Just another point of view.....
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Shear strength of #6 and #8 screws ... floor screws |
I drilled holes #30 and clecoed nutplates on top and used the nutplate as a
drilling jig. You can cleco up a whole row and drill them quickly. Instead
of countersinking, I just dimpled both the rib and the nut plates. I used
the female die with one side ground off for dimpling the nutplates. Then
it's really easy to squeeze the rivets. The dimpled nutplate centers itself
and you can put a side grip clamp on the center of it and rivets in both
holes. Once again, prep a row of them and you can quickly squeeze them off
in sequence. Don't forget to drill the screw holes out to #19 before you
rivet the plates on.
Ed Holyoke
6QB
>
> This is what I did:
>
> drilled all holes #30.
>
> got a small piece of steal, 1/8" thick.
>
> drilled a #30 hole in it and locktite'd a piece of broken off #30 drill
> in it. came from my 12" # 30 drillbit :-(
>
> drilled the two #40 rivet holes in it.
> your own $ 0.30 nutplate jig. ( did I ever tell you I have Dutch cheapo
> genes )......( couldn't see spending $40 for a nutplate jig for the
> occasion)
>
> used small vicegrips to hold jig in place and just started drilling.
> amazing how fast I drilled alll those nutplate holes.
>
> I found an added benefit here. I could clamp the jig in place and have
> two hands free to bend the long drillbit slightly to drill the plates
> next to the skin.
>
> Gert
>
>
> Larry Bowen wrote:
> >
> >
> > RE: the dread...someone, somwehere told me that they wanted to do the
> > screws/nutplates on the floor, but couldn't bring themselves to do it
> > because of the increased work and small likelyhood of needing to remove
the
> > floor. He ended up staying with the blind rivets. If the need to
remove
> > the floor ever did occur, he would drill out the pops, enlarging the
holes
> > to accept screws, then do all those nutplates.
> >
> > Just another point of view.....
> >
> > Larry Bowen
> > RV-8 fuse
> > Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> > Web: http://BowenAero.com
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > >
> > > #8 it is...
> > >
> > > Thanks a lot!
> > > PS- I've done the first twenty now and am eyeing the giant pile
> > > of nutplates
> > > that Vans sent me with a great deal of dread...
> > >
> > > Matthew
> > > -8A
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jacob Lauser <jrlauser(at)postoffice.pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | It's worth a shot... |
Hey folks! I'm new here, so I won't waste your time with a really long
e-mail request. Here goes the short version:
I'm a 22-year-old student who is determined to attempt the construction
and flight of a Van's Aircraft RV-8 by the age of 25. I'm currently in A
& P school at Sierra Academy of Aeronautics in Oakland, California, and,
if all goes well, I will graduate from there in September with a brand,
spanking-new FAA A & P technician license and a 95% average. As a
student, however, I am quite broke. Most of my income is spent on car
insurance for my beat-up, old Subaru, health insurance, and rent (with
most of the rest paying for school). *cue the world's smallest violin*
Have you ever seen the bum on the street corner holding a sign that
reads, "Why lie, I need a beer?" Well, I would not be insulted in the
least if you imagined me extending a cup and holding a sign saying, "Why
lie, I need an RV." I know this is a long shot, but having secured the
use of several recently vacated jigs, all the metal working/rivetting
equipment I could ever need, and the generous donation of half a
garage's worth of workspace (thanks, Jason!), the only thing I lack is
the empennage kit itself. I should be gainfully employed at either
United Airlines, Boeing, or in general aviation by the end of the year,
thus facilitating the financial burden of the remaining RV-8 kits, but
in the meantime I'm searching for generous individuals willing to help
me finance the beginning of my plane (although I would be more than
delighted to accept further assistance). In exchange, I will incorporate
the names of those who sponsor me in the finished paint job (plus you'll
have the ultimate satisfaction of saying, "I helped get that kid going!"
while pointing at your name on the fuselage) So, if you're feeling
generous, or you have a kit to gift me, PLEASE CALL!!! (or drop me an
e-mail at the address below).
Ok, stop laughing; I'm quite serious! But don't worry, I do realize the
odds are slim to none so I won't be surprised when I have to hawk my
soul to Van in exchange for a plane. But, as a great individual once
said, "It never hurts to ask".
Take care, and thanks for your time...
Jake Lauser
jrlauser(at)pacbell.net
(925)957-0844 days
(925)229-9997 nights
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: It's worth a shot... |
Hahahaa, oh man.....you're killing me. You are asking 'aircraft builders'
for some spare money? When you get done with A&P school and into the real
world you will discover how expensive aircraft parts are. Once you begin
building an RV you will discover how fast your money goes away...then and
only then will you realize how funny this request is. Hell man, I mugged a
panhandler last week for his 'God bless and thank you' sign...which I used
to pay for another $300 worth of Avery tools at sun n fun. Hey, he didn't
really need the money anyway.
Ok, gotta run. Scott's wife, Farah, just called from my shower...it appears
she dropped the soap again.....duty calls. :-)
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jacob Lauser" <jrlauser(at)postoffice.pacbell.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 1:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: It's worth a shot...
>
> Hey folks! I'm new here, so I won't waste your time with a really long
> e-mail request. Here goes the short version:
>
> I'm a 22-year-old student who is determined to attempt the construction
> and flight of a Van's Aircraft RV-8 by the age of 25. I'm currently in A
> & P school at Sierra Academy of Aeronautics in Oakland, California, and,
> if all goes well, I will graduate from there in September with a brand,
> spanking-new FAA A & P technician license and a 95% average. As a
> student, however, I am quite broke. Most of my income is spent on car
> insurance for my beat-up, old Subaru, health insurance, and rent (with
> most of the rest paying for school). *cue the world's smallest violin*
>
> Have you ever seen the bum on the street corner holding a sign that
> reads, "Why lie, I need a beer?" Well, I would not be insulted in the
> least if you imagined me extending a cup and holding a sign saying, "Why
> lie, I need an RV." I know this is a long shot, but having secured the
> use of several recently vacated jigs, all the metal working/rivetting
> equipment I could ever need, and the generous donation of half a
> garage's worth of workspace (thanks, Jason!), the only thing I lack is
> the empennage kit itself. I should be gainfully employed at either
> United Airlines, Boeing, or in general aviation by the end of the year,
> thus facilitating the financial burden of the remaining RV-8 kits, but
> in the meantime I'm searching for generous individuals willing to help
> me finance the beginning of my plane (although I would be more than
> delighted to accept further assistance). In exchange, I will incorporate
> the names of those who sponsor me in the finished paint job (plus you'll
> have the ultimate satisfaction of saying, "I helped get that kid going!"
> while pointing at your name on the fuselage) So, if you're feeling
> generous, or you have a kit to gift me, PLEASE CALL!!! (or drop me an
> e-mail at the address below).
>
> Ok, stop laughing; I'm quite serious! But don't worry, I do realize the
> odds are slim to none so I won't be surprised when I have to hawk my
> soul to Van in exchange for a plane. But, as a great individual once
> said, "It never hurts to ask".
>
> Take care, and thanks for your time...
>
> Jake Lauser
> jrlauser(at)pacbell.net
> (925)957-0844 days
> (925)229-9997 nights
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: It's worth a shot... |
HAH! Yeah really. After I heard about some loon trying to auction off a
HUMAN KIDNEY (liver?) on Ebay, I thought to myself..."self, I still have
some useful life on my organs, I wonder what I could get for a kidney and
maybe a lung? Oooh! Can you say, NEW engine and NEW gyros??!!"
Still, I gotta admire the lad's spirit. Of course, once he get's employed,
he could do a coast to coast parts scavenging mission. Hell, just the RV
listers alone have probably scrapped enough parts to build a whole FLEET of
RV's!!
Hang in there, kiddo. Van's ain't goin' nowhere. The RV's will be
there...when you're ready to pay via paycheck, mortgage, loans, or selling
off wiggly, drippy bloody body bits. Hell, I sold my prized, rare Gretsch
guitar for my first junker car. Now THAT hurt. *sigh*
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
TWO jugs replaced and one set of tires...so far.
Man, is this a bizarre tangent or WHAT??!?
>Hahahaa, oh man.....you're killing me. You are asking 'aircraft builders'
>for some spare money? When you get done with A&P school and into the real
>world you will discover how expensive aircraft parts are. Once you begin
>building an RV you will discover how fast your money goes away...then and
>only then will you realize how funny this request is. Hell man, I mugged a
>panhandler last week for his 'God bless and thank you' sign...which I used
>to pay for another $300 worth of Avery tools at sun n fun. Hey, he didn't
>really need the money anyway.
>
>Ok, gotta run. Scott's wife, Farah, just called from my shower...it
>appears
>she dropped the soap again.....duty calls. :-)
>
>Bill
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jacob Lauser" <jrlauser(at)postoffice.pacbell.net>
>To:
>Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 1:13 PM
>Subject: RV-List: It's worth a shot...
>
>
>
> >
> > Hey folks! I'm new here, so I won't waste your time with a really long
> > e-mail request. Here goes the short version:
> >
> > I'm a 22-year-old student who is determined to attempt the construction
> > and flight of a Van's Aircraft RV-8 by the age of 25. I'm currently in A
> > & P school at Sierra Academy of Aeronautics in Oakland, California, and,
> > if all goes well, I will graduate from there in September with a brand,
> > spanking-new FAA A & P technician license and a 95% average. As a
> > student, however, I am quite broke. Most of my income is spent on car
> > insurance for my beat-up, old Subaru, health insurance, and rent (with
> > most of the rest paying for school). *cue the world's smallest violin*
> >
> > Have you ever seen the bum on the street corner holding a sign that
> > reads, "Why lie, I need a beer?" Well, I would not be insulted in the
> > least if you imagined me extending a cup and holding a sign saying, "Why
> > lie, I need an RV." I know this is a long shot, but having secured the
> > use of several recently vacated jigs, all the metal working/rivetting
> > equipment I could ever need, and the generous donation of half a
> > garage's worth of workspace (thanks, Jason!), the only thing I lack is
> > the empennage kit itself. I should be gainfully employed at either
> > United Airlines, Boeing, or in general aviation by the end of the year,
> > thus facilitating the financial burden of the remaining RV-8 kits, but
> > in the meantime I'm searching for generous individuals willing to help
> > me finance the beginning of my plane (although I would be more than
> > delighted to accept further assistance). In exchange, I will incorporate
> > the names of those who sponsor me in the finished paint job (plus you'll
> > have the ultimate satisfaction of saying, "I helped get that kid going!"
> > while pointing at your name on the fuselage) So, if you're feeling
> > generous, or you have a kit to gift me, PLEASE CALL!!! (or drop me an
> > e-mail at the address below).
> >
> > Ok, stop laughing; I'm quite serious! But don't worry, I do realize the
> > odds are slim to none so I won't be surprised when I have to hawk my
> > soul to Van in exchange for a plane. But, as a great individual once
> > said, "It never hurts to ask".
> >
> > Take care, and thanks for your time...
> >
> > Jake Lauser
> > jrlauser(at)pacbell.net
> > (925)957-0844 days
> > (925)229-9997 nights
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | vernatherm service bulletin |
There is a 3-4 year old Lycoming service bulletin which pertains to almost all
of us. It requires that the vernatherm be removed from the engine periodically
and the nut at the inside end be inspected for looseness. Supposedly this nut
can come loose and be sucked through the rest of the engine; which would
definitely be bad news.
The almost as bad news is that this thing is extremely hard to reach and
remove. As I've been doing some other work under the cowl for the past few
weeks, I've had several opportunities to try new ways to reach and remove the
vernatherm for the inspection. I can now reach it from the side with a cut off
open wrench with the oil filter off, or from below with a socket with the fuel
pump off. That's half the battle. The new fight is that it is in tight and
will not come out happily.
Now if this thing was mounted on anything other than my precious Lycoming, I'd
simply get out an impact wrench and make it come off. The problem is that it is
in so tight that I'm worried that banging too hard on the wrench might do some
damage to the brittle accessory case in which it sits. So... I'm starting to
think about just leaving it in.
My question is, for those of you who have removed and inspected your vernatherms
per this service bulletin; has anyone actually found the problem present on your
plane? Do you know anyone who has? Does this seem to be a frequent problem
that is worth risking the destruction of your accesary case to inspect for?
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Removable floor (was #6 and #8 screw size) |
Oh Yeah, I made my rear floor panels a 3 piecer. two identical outsides
and a separate center section.
a heck of a lor easier to install this way.
The rear seat hinges work out better too.
Gert
Matthew Gelber wrote:
>
>
> Thought I should add the following comments to anyone contemplating the
> removable floor:
>
> Why do this? I wanted to make the floor at least partially removable in
> case I install an autopilot. The trutrak install for the RV-8 goes behind
> the footwell, so I wanted decent access to this area in case I wanted to get
> there to install/service it.
>
> Two factors come in pretty quick when you start studying the problem. The
> first: with all the stiffeners riveted on, the floor skins cannot be
> removed - they are trapped under the 805 and 806 bulkheads. The second- the
> floor is structural so you have to be careful before you start modifying
> anything it.
>
> There was an earlier post (search archive on removable floor) about a way to
> cut the floor into four pieces instead of two and hinging access doors, that
> sounds like it makes a very nice install- but I was looking for something a
> little easier even if it was a less elegant solution. The easiest thing I
> could come up with was to cut two triangular pieces, about 1.5" on a side,
> from each of the floor skins. These triangles are the parts that lie under
> the 805 and 806 bulkheads. I will rivet these permanently to the floor, and
> make a doubler underneath with nutplates that will tie this back in to the
> main floor pieces.
>
> With everything screwed down with number 8 screws this should be as strong
> as the LP-4 rivets (but you should check with Vans).
>
> If I could travel back in time 12 hours, I'd pop rivet the entire rear floor
> down and only install the nutplates in front of the 806 bulkheads. Then if
> I wanted autopilot access I could have just taken out the dozen nutplates in
> that area and curled the floor out of the way providing great access to that
> area with little trouble. I'd pop-rivet in the rest per Larry's suggestion
> and install the nutplates later, if I ever had reason to go down in there.
>
> I'm going the slow-build route so the loss of time installing the nutplates
> is insignificant (I'd guess one longish day), but it does add weight, which
> is a bad habit to get into...
>
> Matthew
> -8A fuse, nutplating, and clutching my lower back
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Damm" <edamm(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | FOR SALE - RV-8 tail kit |
For Sale: Partially completed RV-8 pre-punched tail kit. HS,
VS, and Rudder completed. Elevators not completed. Includes
electric trim kit. All workmanship excellent. $1600
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vernatherm service bulletin |
--- Andy wrote:
>
> There is a 3-4 year old Lycoming service bulletin which pertains to
> almost all
> of us. It requires that the vernatherm be removed from the engine
> periodically
> and the nut at the inside end be inspected for looseness. Supposedly
> this nut
> can come loose and be sucked through the rest of the engine; which
> would
> definitely be bad news.
>
> The almost as bad news is that this thing is extremely hard to reach
> and
> remove. As I've been doing some other work under the cowl for the
> past few
> weeks, I've had several opportunities to try new ways to reach and
> remove the
> vernatherm for the inspection. I can now reach it from the side with
> a cut off
> open wrench with the oil filter off, or from below with a socket with
> the fuel
> pump off. That's half the battle. The new fight is that it is in
> tight and
> will not come out happily.
>
> Now if this thing was mounted on anything other than my precious
> Lycoming, I'd
> simply get out an impact wrench and make it come off. The problem is
> that it is
> in so tight that I'm worried that banging too hard on the wrench
> might do some
> damage to the brittle accessory case in which it sits. So... I'm
> starting to
> think about just leaving it in.
>
> My question is, for those of you who have removed and inspected your
> vernatherms
> per this service bulletin; has anyone actually found the problem
> present on your
> plane? Do you know anyone who has? Does this seem to be a frequent
> problem
> that is worth risking the destruction of your accesary case to
> inspect for?
>
> Andy
>
Andy:
I put a new one in when my engine was going together. It was made my
Superior and has a roll pin lock in the nut. (I think. I know it was
locked down.)
Lycoming Service Instruction 1423 issued 28 January 1983 is the one you
are talking about. It is not mandatory.
To check if it is complied with, it should have "the letter "L"
(approximately 1/4 inch high) vibro-peened on the hex head, below the
part number, to indicate compliance with this Service Instruction."
If there is another one, I did not see it in the May 1999 Index.
I am at the hangar and will take the SI home with me to email you a
copy.
Fittings that I have had a difficult time removing from the case, I
have used heat. It does not take a lot. When it starts getting
uncomfortable to touch, it usually comes out with moderate force.
Hope this is of some help.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
788+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bert murillo <bertrv6(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi:
With the recent death of Tony Bingelis,we have lost
a friend and great supporter of Experimental aircraf
building.
His books, are a must for any builder; his expertise
and the clarity of his writings have been for me and
thousands an invaluable help in the process of
puting together my rv6.
He was always happy to answer questions and
encourage those of us, new comers into the wonderful
world of "Custom building" our dream machines.
He will be missed; our condolance go to his
family.
Bert
Rv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Guys, if you've never been to Eagle Field, GO! It is a WWII training base
that is still pretty much in the condition that it was when the AAC walked
away from it. (Read that as run-down BUT they are trying to fix it up.)
There is an old wooden hangar with a small museum inside. Every year they
have a big party with all the old heros, swing band, a real old time hangar
dance. I just stumbled onto Eagle Field one day and was given a tour of the
place by one of the guys that volunteers there. I've never been to the
dance but I want to go one of these years.
Thanks for the update, Doug!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Rozendaal [mailto:dougr(at)petroblend.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 2:08 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Westward Ho!
On Tuesday May 8th the CAF Southern Mn Wing B-25 "Miss
Mitchell" is headed
West for the Doolittle Raider's Reunion at Fresno CA on May
12th. This is
not RV related, but if someone is looking for someplace to
fly to this week
or we are coming near your hometown you might be interested.
Our schedule is: (subject to major change.... WX Maint etc)
May 8
here
here
May 9
Depart KFFZ Mid morning,
Arrive ? Either Chino or Van Nuys Still up in the air.....
9 or 10 B 25s
here
Depart Mid afternoon
Arrive Freso later afternoon 16 B-25s here!!!!!!!!!!!
(we hope)
May 10 and 11 Local flying
Big Blowout Saturday May 12 see http://www.eaglefield.org/
May 13
Depart KFAT early AM
The way home will either be over Reno, Salt Lake, Rock
Springs or
return the way we came out. Depends on the WX and it will
be a race with
daylight to make it home Sunday night.
The point of this is, first of all this will be the biggest
gathering of
flying B25s in the since they made Catch 22. Secondly, lots
of you are out
on the Left coast there and I would love to put a face with
a name. So, if
you are burning up that precious AVgas anyway, drop in, find
Miss Mitchell
and say Hi, I will show you thru a really nice B25. do not
archive
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com\dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Garrett" <rlgarrett7(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | NM 2000 engine managment system |
I just saw an ad for a new (to me) engine management system on pg 25 of
the June 2001 Kitplanes ... It's called NM 2000 from CRG. I have never
heard of them, but the ad looks nice and I am right on the verge of
selecting a set of engine instruments. Does anyone have any more
information or experience with this system?
Thanks,
Randy
RV-6A QB
Installing Van's wiring harness
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | The Main Squeeze |
Is this thing new?
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/specials/themainsqueeze.htm
Half the setting pressure, 2/3rds the weight, quick release pins,
upgradeable to pneumatic, sounds great, has any one tried it?
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Van's sells the inserts. I couldn't find them anywhere. I had the same
problem. I cut the end off. Ordered a couple of new inserts from Van's,
then when I went to put the new inserts in, I stuck the tube in boiling
water for about 30 seconds, then pressed it against my back riveting plate.
Good luck.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Norman Hunger [mailto:nhunger(at)sprint.ca]
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 8:25 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake Lines
OK, here's the situation, one's stuck halfway in and the
ring thing is
nicely on the end. Should I try dipping this whole thing in
boiling water?
And what about on the other end, do I dip it with the end
thing on?
Thanks all for helping.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
> I used a cup of boiling hot water. Have everything ready
and dip the tip
of
> the tube into the hot water for about 30 seconds then
quickly press the
> fitting in. Don't forget to slip the nut part on the tube
first.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | It's worth a shot... |
Bill,
Tell Farrah that I miss her and that when she comes to her senses, she can
always come back home to me.
--
Scott (they're great once you're past the used part) VanArtsdalen, MCSE,
CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Shook [mailto:billshook(at)earthlink.net]
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 2:02 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: It's worth a shot...
Hahahaa, oh man.....you're killing me. You are asking
'aircraft builders'
for some spare money? When you get done with A&P school
and into the real
world you will discover how expensive aircraft parts are.
Once you begin
building an RV you will discover how fast your money goes
away...then and
only then will you realize how funny this request is. Hell
man, I mugged a
panhandler last week for his 'God bless and thank you'
sign...which I used
to pay for another $300 worth of Avery tools at sun n fun.
Hey, he didn't
really need the money anyway.
Ok, gotta run. Scott's wife, Farah, just called from my
shower...it appears
she dropped the soap again.....duty calls. :-)
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jacob Lauser" <jrlauser(at)postoffice.pacbell.net>
To:
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 1:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: It's worth a shot...
>
> Hey folks! I'm new here, so I won't waste your time with a
really long
> e-mail request. Here goes the short version:
>
> I'm a 22-year-old student who is determined to attempt the
construction
> and flight of a Van's Aircraft RV-8 by the age of 25. I'm
currently in A
> & P school at Sierra Academy of Aeronautics in Oakland,
California, and,
> if all goes well, I will graduate from there in September
with a brand,
> spanking-new FAA A & P technician license and a 95%
average. As a
> student, however, I am quite broke. Most of my income is
spent on car
> insurance for my beat-up, old Subaru, health insurance,
and rent (with
> most of the rest paying for school). *cue the world's
smallest violin*
>
> Have you ever seen the bum on the street corner holding a
sign that
> reads, "Why lie, I need a beer?" Well, I would not be
insulted in the
> least if you imagined me extending a cup and holding a
sign saying, "Why
> lie, I need an RV." I know this is a long shot, but having
secured the
> use of several recently vacated jigs, all the metal
working/rivetting
> equipment I could ever need, and the generous donation of
half a
> garage's worth of workspace (thanks, Jason!), the only
thing I lack is
> the empennage kit itself. I should be gainfully employed
at either
> United Airlines, Boeing, or in general aviation by the end
of the year,
> thus facilitating the financial burden of the remaining
RV-8 kits, but
> in the meantime I'm searching for generous individuals
willing to help
> me finance the beginning of my plane (although I would be
more than
> delighted to accept further assistance). In exchange, I
will incorporate
> the names of those who sponsor me in the finished paint
job (plus you'll
> have the ultimate satisfaction of saying, "I helped get
that kid going!"
> while pointing at your name on the fuselage) So, if you're
feeling
> generous, or you have a kit to gift me, PLEASE CALL!!! (or
drop me an
> e-mail at the address below).
>
> Ok, stop laughing; I'm quite serious! But don't worry, I
do realize the
> odds are slim to none so I won't be surprised when I have
to hawk my
> soul to Van in exchange for a plane. But, as a great
individual once
> said, "It never hurts to ask".
>
> Take care, and thanks for your time...
>
> Jake Lauser
> jrlauser(at)pacbell.net
> (925)957-0844 days
> (925)229-9997 nights
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Anyone building or flying in Maine? |
There is a guy in RAH that is interested in building an RV.
If there is anyone in the Maine area that would be interested
in letting him look at your airplane or project let me know
and I well put him in touch.
Thanks
Jerry Springer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The Main Squeeze |
Looks great and sounds great to me. How much is it, since the ad I pulled
up didn't state. I could not get to this from their catalog specials so I'm
wondering how you were able to pull this up.
Marty in Brentwood TN.
do no archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 7:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: The Main Squeeze
>
> Is this thing new?
>
> http://www.cleavelandtool.com/specials/themainsqueeze.htm
>
> Half the setting pressure, 2/3rds the weight, quick release pins,
> upgradeable to pneumatic, sounds great, has any one tried it?
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Aerox Oxygen System |
I'd be interested in knowing too. I'd like to add O2 to my bird. I was
thinking of strapping the cylinder to the top of my battery box between my
rudder pedals... Any -4 builders have any better locations?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: KostaLewis [mailto:mikel(at)dimensional.com]
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 7:37 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aerox Oxygen System
>I have 13cu' system and I consider it one of the best bang
for the buck
>purchases I've ever made. I spent a long time trying to
figure out where
>to put it from a safety/ease of use/out of the way
standpoint...............
Anyone have one mounted in a -4?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
| Subject: | Hangar space-China Lake Area |
Listers in China Lake, CA areas,
I recently got called to China Lake, CA to carry out work duties starting
June 15, for a month and a half (yuck). The problem, withdrawal! So I
thought that maybe this is an opportunity to be adventuresome and take my -6
out there from Maryland. Another problem, I can't get hangar space for this
duration and my baby has never been outdoor in such intense heat.
My arm needs a little twisting on this idea. I would be very tempted if I
know my baby is going to be well taken care of.
I will be in Inyokern area to be specific. If you could share or help me
get hangar space, please respond.
Thanks,
Anh
N985VU
-6
Maryland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The Main Squeeze |
Emrath wrote:
>
> Looks great and sounds great to me. How much is it, since the ad I pulled
> up didn't state. I could not get to this from their catalog specials so I'm
> wondering how you were able to pull this up.
> Marty in Brentwood TN.
> do no archive
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 7:25 PM
> Subject: RV-List: The Main Squeeze
>
> >
> > Is this thing new?
> >
> > http://www.cleavelandtool.com/specials/themainsqueeze.htm
> >
> > Half the setting pressure, 2/3rds the weight, quick release pins,
> > upgradeable to pneumatic, sounds great, has any one tried it?
> >
> > Norman Hunger
> > RV6A Delta BC
There is a link to it at the bottom of the front page
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/
And see my Rans S12xl experimental aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hangar space-China Lake Area |
Speaking of Hanger Space. EAA Chapter 162 in Nashville TN has built 24
hangers in the past year. These are rectangular in shape, 33'deep x42'wide
x12'door. If you need space to rent in Mid TN, contact me. Perhaps even
overnight stays could be accomodated. We are at MQY which is SE of
Nashville. Class C space with long ex-military runway.
Marty in Brentwood TN
----- Original Message -----
From: <wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2001 8:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: Hangar space-China Lake Area
>
> Listers in China Lake, CA areas,
>
> I recently got called to China Lake, CA to carry out work duties starting
> June 15, for a month and a half (yuck). The problem, withdrawal! So I
> thought that maybe this is an opportunity to be adventuresome and take
my -6
> out there from Maryland. Another problem, I can't get hangar space for
this
> duration and my baby has never been outdoor in such intense heat.
> My arm needs a little twisting on this idea. I would be very tempted if I
> know my baby is going to be well taken care of.
> I will be in Inyokern area to be specific. If you could share or help me
> get hangar space, please respond.
> Thanks,
>
> Anh
> N985VU
> -6
> Maryland
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruno" <fo320(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Canopy Installation |
Hello posters
As you know I had to replace my canopy on my RV-4 due to damage
caused by vandals.Well I'm in the process of doing that but I would like to
know if anyone has used countersinks screws instead of blind rivets to hold
the canopy attach to the tubing.
If yes,did you have to apply a specific torque to the screws to
prevent any cracking or did you just tight them enough to hold the whole
assy together.
You can contact me off list if you choose.
Thanks
Bruno
RV-4 C-GDBH
E-Mail# fo320(at)sympatico.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 5/6/01 10:05:28 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jrlauser(at)postoffice.pacbell.net writes:
<< I'll have to be just as
resourceful to pull this project off though. Time to start planning! At
least I'm trying. Most of my peers are out getting wasted and goofing
off. >>
Good luck Jake. Hope you succeed. Sorry, I can only offer you encouragement.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: It's worth a shot... |
Hi Jake,
Now now Son, you be sure to be a real good boy and maybe, just maybe, Santy
will stuff one down your, or is that, up your chimney?
Well anyhow, you do believe in Santy don't ya Li'll feller?
Maybe, just maybe you should not sit so close to them pals of yours when
their getting wasted like that.
Seems to me that if you sold all that brass you've got there you could buy
the RV8 your begging for.
Awh heck Hee Hee HaHaHa Oh! stop it your killing me! {:-)!
Good luck!
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: Jacob Lauser <jrlauser(at)postoffice.pacbell.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 10:13 AM
Subject: RV-List: It's worth a shot...
>
> Hey folks! I'm new here, so I won't waste your time with a really long
> e-mail request. Here goes the short version:
>
> I'm a 22-year-old student who is determined to attempt the construction
> and flight of a Van's Aircraft RV-8 by the age of 25. I'm currently in A
> & P school at Sierra Academy of Aeronautics in Oakland, California, and,
> if all goes well, I will graduate from there in September with a brand,
> spanking-new FAA A & P technician license and a 95% average. As a
> student, however, I am quite broke. Most of my income is spent on car
> insurance for my beat-up, old Subaru, health insurance, and rent (with
> most of the rest paying for school). *cue the world's smallest violin*
>
> Have you ever seen the bum on the street corner holding a sign that
> reads, "Why lie, I need a beer?" Well, I would not be insulted in the
> least if you imagined me extending a cup and holding a sign saying, "Why
> lie, I need an RV." I know this is a long shot, but having secured the
> use of several recently vacated jigs, all the metal working/rivetting
> equipment I could ever need, and the generous donation of half a
> garage's worth of workspace (thanks, Jason!), the only thing I lack is
> the empennage kit itself. I should be gainfully employed at either
> United Airlines, Boeing, or in general aviation by the end of the year,
> thus facilitating the financial burden of the remaining RV-8 kits, but
> in the meantime I'm searching for generous individuals willing to help
> me finance the beginning of my plane (although I would be more than
> delighted to accept further assistance). In exchange, I will incorporate
> the names of those who sponsor me in the finished paint job (plus you'll
> have the ultimate satisfaction of saying, "I helped get that kid going!"
> while pointing at your name on the fuselage) So, if you're feeling
> generous, or you have a kit to gift me, PLEASE CALL!!! (or drop me an
> e-mail at the address below).
>
> Ok, stop laughing; I'm quite serious! But don't worry, I do realize the
> odds are slim to none so I won't be surprised when I have to hawk my
> soul to Van in exchange for a plane. But, as a great individual once
> said, "It never hurts to ask".
>
> Take care, and thanks for your time...
>
> Jake Lauser
> jrlauser(at)pacbell.net
> (925)957-0844 days
> (925)229-9997 nights
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: It's worth a shot... |
You absolutely need different buddies. THATSAFACT!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
I'm 25 yrs old and have financed my RV project 100% on my own.
The fact is the project is run by available funds. Build when you can afford
it.
Until then, dream. If you really want it you'll have it someday.
Remember you could finance your project. If you complete it you can sell it
for more than you paid for it, pay off the loan, and start a second one debt
free.
Stay focused but do it honorably,
As an A&P you're golden,
Steve Hurlbut
Comox, BC
shurlbut(at)island.net
----- Original Message -----
From: <DWENSING(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 9:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hmmm....
>
> In a message dated 5/6/01 10:05:28 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> jrlauser(at)postoffice.pacbell.net writes:
>
> << I'll have to be just as
> resourceful to pull this project off though. Time to start planning! At
> least I'm trying. Most of my peers are out getting wasted and goofing
> off. >>
> Good luck Jake. Hope you succeed. Sorry, I can only offer you
encouragement.
> Dale Ensing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jacob Lauser <jrlauser(at)postoffice.pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: It's worth a shot... |
There is a difference between "peers" and "friends". A peer is defined as
"one belonging to the same societal group especially based on age, grade, or
status" whereas a friend is defined as "one with whom you have a friendship
or friendly relationship with." Rest assured I don't associate with my peers
who are out carousing their way through life...
Thanks for the note...
- Jake Lauser
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 9:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: It's worth a shot...
>
> You absolutely need different buddies. THATSAFACT!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight report! |
Randy,
CONGRATULATIONS !! & WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (almost ready for final painting)
Niantic, CT (Westerly airport)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
Speaking of the books, EAA National is having a 1/2 off sale on all books
and videos this month. You can pick up the entire Bingelis set for around
$40.
See you Chapter President for the catalog.
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
> -----Original Message-----
> From: bert murillo [SMTP:bertrv6(at)yahoo.com]
> Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 4:53 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Tony Bengilis
>
>
> Hi:
>
> With the recent death of Tony Bingelis,we have lost
> a friend and great supporter of Experimental aircraf
> building.
>
> His books, are a must for any builder; his expertise
> and the clarity of his writings have been for me and
> thousands an invaluable help in the process of
> puting together my rv6.
>
> He was always happy to answer questions and
> encourage those of us, new comers into the wonderful
> world of "Custom building" our dream machines.
>
> He will be missed; our condolance go to his
> family.
>
> Bert
> Rv6a
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
> Well, like I said, it's time to hawk my soul for a plane. You guys may
> think I'm naive, but I think I'm actually being realistic. I thought I'd
> at least ask. Sometimes you can find extremely generous people out
> there. Take, for instance, how I'm learning to fly. I bartered through
> ground school with my skills in radio equipment installation and
> maintenance (and I don't mean car stereos). I'll have to be just as
> resourceful to pull this project off though. Time to start planning! At
> least I'm trying. Most of my peers are out getting wasted and goofing
> off.
>
> - Jake Lauser
I would hang in there Jake, your newly aquired A&P skills should give you
plenty of bartering power. Most of us in here are working pretty much
paycheck- to -airplane and using every available resource to scrounge up
airplane parts. I for instance have heavy equipment readily available, and
traded my mechanic some land clearing and site work for his parts, labor and
advice.
Kevin in WA -9A scrounged up and finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Waalkes" <waalkes(at)netnitco.net> |
Had some trouble on my HS last night.
Problem #1 - While dimpling (and getting tired) I missed one of the
holes and hence I have a new hole where there shouldn't be one! I need
to fit the skin and see if it will hit a spar. What should I do with
this nasty hole? And worse, what to do if it does hit the spar???
Problem #2 - How do you dimple the holes near the leading edge? Take
the dimple dies out and try to tap or just bend the skin way back?
Thanks in advance for the help.
Bob Waalkes
RV-8 Emp - Going to stop when I get tired from now on!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 5/7/01 7:55:10 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
waalkes(at)netnitco.net writes:
> Had some trouble on my HS last night.
>
> Problem #1 - While dimpling (and getting tired) I missed one of the
> holes and hence I have a new hole where there shouldn't be one! I need
> to fit the skin and see if it will hit a spar. What should I do with
> this nasty hole? And worse, what to do if it does hit the spar???
>
> Problem #2 - How do you dimple the holes near the leading edge? Take
> the dimple dies out and try to tap or just bend the skin way back?
>
> Thanks in advance for the help.
>
> Bob Waalkes
> RV-8 Emp - Going to stop when I get tired from now on!
>
>
>
You have only 2 choices.......Put a rivet in it or throw it away, see that
wasn't to hard now was it.
________________________________________________________________________________
Had some trouble on my HS last night.
Hi Bob
Problem #1 - While dimpling (and getting tired) I missed one of the
holes and hence I have a new hole where there shouldn't be one! I need
to fit the skin and see if it will hit a spar. What should I do with
this nasty hole? And worse, what to do if it does hit the spar???
dimple the hole and put a flush rivit in it if it doesn't hit the spar, if it
hits the spar depending on where it hits the spar, i woud countersink a
recess for the shop head to fit in, or leave the hole open and when getting
ready for painting, put some body putty and prime over it.
Problem #2 - How do you dimple the holes near the leading edge? Take
the dimple dies out and try to tap or just bend the skin way back?
i bent the skins back to dimple, but.... if i were to do it again, i would
use the pop rivit dimple die sets from averys, they work great for
situations like this and other areas you will need them eventually so get
them now and do your skins nicely.
Thanks in advance for the help.
no problem
scott
tampa
rv6a finishing instrument panel wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
Cy, and others who emailed me requesting pics and specs of Bleed Bottle.
Unfortunately I ended up working this week end (not on "6") so pics will be
delayed a few days. Updated pics of snorkel intake will be sent at the same time
to Paul Bessing can post it all on his web site.
Thanks for your patience,
Garry LeGare, RV6 Getting back to "Finishing" tonight.
Cy Galley wrote:
> That is very good of you. I appreciate your effort.
>
> Cy Galley
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley(at)qcbc.org
> or
> experimenter(at)eaa.org
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Garry LeGare" <"versadek"@earthlink.net>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 2:50 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: bleed valve
>
> >
> > Cy,
> > I'll take a picture and get the brand & part number tonight. I will have
> to send
> > the picture direct to you as "The List" filters them out. I will also
> write up
> > how to install a piece of clear urethane tube permanently, so you it won't
> pop
> > off the tank. I think you'll like it.
> > Garry LeGare
> > RV6 Finishing
> >
> > Cy Galley wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Do your have a picture of your pressure bleeder or brand of sprayer, a
> > > source?
> > >
> > > I'd like to make one for the Emergency Aircraft Repair. Or maybe publish
> it
> > > in the "Experimenter"
> > >
> > > Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
> > > Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> > > cgalley(at)qcbc.org
> > > or
> > > experimenter(at)eaa.org
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Garry LeGare" <"versadek"@earthlink.net>
> > > To:
> > > Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 1:39 PM
> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: bleed valve
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Michael,
> > > > I used to use the same oil pump cans myself one for oil one for
> aircraft
> > > fluid.
> > > > But last time I lent out the aircraft one it never found its way back
> home
> > > (one
> > > > of the joys of being a Tech Counselor is being able to lend out your
> > > special
> > > > tools and then trying to remember to whom). Thus started the search
> for a
> > > > replacement. That was 6 years, about 10 airplanes and a couple of
> gallons
> > > of
> > > > the pink stuff ago, and it still works.
> > > > I like it better than the pump because;
> > > > You can see how much fluid is in it( it holds a quart, It's not one of
> > > those
> > > > big garden sprayers).
> > > > It's different enough looking that people remember to return it , at
> least
> > > so
> > > > far.
> > > > It makes bleeding the air out a lot easier.
> > > > You pump up the pressure once, open the bleeder valve, and press the
> > > button on
> > > > the tank to start the flow, have someone with a flashlight look in the
> > > > reservoir and tell you when the fluid starts to enter it. Shut the
> bleeder
> > > > valve off.
> > > > Repeat on the other side, your done.
> > > > Garry LeGare
> > > > RV6 Finishing
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > KostaLewis wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > >Gary LeGare, brought over a "pressure brake bleeder" which is $6
> garden
> > > > > >spray bottle that has a
> > > > > >small pump . The Garden Sprayer is available at the Home Depot for
> > > under
> > > > > >$7. I have already bought my own and will keep
> > > > > >it on hand for future use.
> > > > >
> > > > > For years I have used a small pump oil can, the ones with a
> cylindrical
> > > > > reservoir, a small pump handle and the spigot angled off at about 90
> > > > > degrees, with some rubber tubing to connect to the brake nipple.
> It's
> > > metal
> > > > > and can pump up some pretty good pressure. I wonder how durable the
> > > plastic
> > > > > spray bottles would be...........
> > > > >
> > > > > Michael
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Parsons" <DAP(at)DParsons.com> |
After reading this, I went straight to the EAA.org website to place my
order. The price on the website did not reflect the special, so I called.
The special you are referring to applies to purchases make through EAA
chapters. So, for those that are a member of an EAA chapter, you can contact
your chapter secretary / treasurer, and have them include your book/video
order that the chapter places to EAA.
Thanks for the info Ed.
Don Parsons
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Cole, Ed
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2001 9:28 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Tony Bengilis
Speaking of the books, EAA National is having a 1/2 off sale on all books
and videos this month. You can pick up the entire Bingelis set for around
$40.
See you Chapter President for the catalog.
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | It's worth a shot... |
Jake...
What can you do for me in trade for some tail kit parts? Here is a list of
things I am in need of to finish my -8:
VSI
G-meter
comm
intercom
encoder
exhaust / heating stuff
I also have an AI and DG in need of overhaul...
I have an almost complete (no horizontal stab parts), and fairly new (this
year), tail kit for an RV-8(A) that I may be willing to let go in exchange
for some of the above items...
By the way... Don't let people on the list get you down. It take a lot of
guts to do what you did, and the people that are bashing you just don't have
it in them to try it... Heck, I don't think I do either. :-) I respect
that in you! This RV list is a great resource, and there are a lot of great
people on the list, so for sure stick around, and just let all the flak just
roll of...
You can give me a call if you wish...
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
work: 719-540-1997
home: 719-392-2829
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jacob Lauser
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 11:13 AM
Subject: RV-List: It's worth a shot...
Hey folks! I'm new here, so I won't waste your time with a really long
e-mail request. Here goes the short version:
I'm a 22-year-old student who is determined to attempt the construction
and flight of a Van's Aircraft RV-8 by the age of 25. I'm currently in A
& P school at Sierra Academy of Aeronautics in Oakland, California, and,
if all goes well, I will graduate from there in September with a brand,
spanking-new FAA A & P technician license and a 95% average. As a
student, however, I am quite broke. Most of my income is spent on car
insurance for my beat-up, old Subaru, health insurance, and rent (with
most of the rest paying for school). *cue the world's smallest violin*
Have you ever seen the bum on the street corner holding a sign that
reads, "Why lie, I need a beer?" Well, I would not be insulted in the
least if you imagined me extending a cup and holding a sign saying, "Why
lie, I need an RV." I know this is a long shot, but having secured the
use of several recently vacated jigs, all the metal working/rivetting
equipment I could ever need, and the generous donation of half a
garage's worth of workspace (thanks, Jason!), the only thing I lack is
the empennage kit itself. I should be gainfully employed at either
United Airlines, Boeing, or in general aviation by the end of the year,
thus facilitating the financial burden of the remaining RV-8 kits, but
in the meantime I'm searching for generous individuals willing to help
me finance the beginning of my plane (although I would be more than
delighted to accept further assistance). In exchange, I will incorporate
the names of those who sponsor me in the finished paint job (plus you'll
have the ultimate satisfaction of saying, "I helped get that kid going!"
while pointing at your name on the fuselage) So, if you're feeling
generous, or you have a kit to gift me, PLEASE CALL!!! (or drop me an
e-mail at the address below).
Ok, stop laughing; I'm quite serious! But don't worry, I do realize the
odds are slim to none so I won't be surprised when I have to hawk my
soul to Van in exchange for a plane. But, as a great individual once
said, "It never hurts to ask".
Take care, and thanks for your time...
Jake Lauser
jrlauser(at)pacbell.net
(925)957-0844 days
(925)229-9997 nights
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
Bob,
When I dimpled a non-hole in my HS about 3 years ago, I put flush dies in
the C-frame and undimpled it. Probably the suggestions to just put a rivet
in it is a better idea.
As for dimpling near the leading edge, I used Avery's pop rivet dimple dies.
I think their vice grip dimpler would probably have worked better. It's
another one of those tools I bought after I needed it. If I ever do another
horizontal stabilizer, I'm all set.
Terry
RV8A fuselage right side up
Seattle
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Waalkes" <waalkes(at)netnitco.net>
> Problem #1 - While dimpling (and getting tired) I missed one of the
> holes and hence I have a new hole where there shouldn't be one! I need
> to fit the skin and see if it will hit a spar. What should I do with
> this nasty hole? And worse, what to do if it does hit the spar???
>
> Problem #2 - How do you dimple the holes near the leading edge? Take
> the dimple dies out and try to tap or just bend the skin way back?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jason baker <jjbaker(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Screw/Washers for wingtips |
All,
I've seen some excellent wingtips...some attached with flush screws and
a washer to facilitate removal and reassembly without scoring the
paintjobs. Two Questions:
1) What washers were used (size and where to purchase).
2) There will be a need for a larger dimple to offset the washer
size...what did u use.
Jason Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Primer line fittings |
I am getting ready to hook up primer and fuel lines, I am ordering a 5-way
splitter block from ACS with 1/8 NPT ports for the primer, is it necessary to
use NPT X flare on 1/8 copper or is it acceptable to use NPT X compression
fittings? The comp fittings are cheaper and easier, I think they would hold
up to vibration better too. I am also using the proper primer fitting at the
cylinders.
Thanks for the help almighty list
Kevin in WA -9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Screw/Washers for wingtips |
Jason,
The way to go is Tinnerman washers. They come with a countersink/dimple
already in them. They size according to the screw size you use. On mine I
used number 8 screws and washers. I'm not around the shop right now so,
sorry, I don't know the counter sink size.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>All,
>
>I've seen some excellent wingtips...some attached with flush screws and
>a washer to facilitate removal and reassembly without scoring the
>paintjobs. Two Questions:
>
>1) What washers were used (size and where to purchase).
>
>2) There will be a need for a larger dimple to offset the washer
>size...what did u use.
>
>
>Jason Baker
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
okay since we've been talking about bartering. Who
needs some A&P work done in the Dallas Fort Worth
area? I am in need of an engine for my 8A. So if any
of you are interested let me know. I am sure we could
work something out. I will perform the annual on your
rv (for non builder owners) flat rate + parts or
whatever you need in the way of A&P work. Give me a
call.
214-435-9149 cell
817-577-9596 home
leave a message
Glenn Williams
have tools will travel
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin Heisler" <majh(at)islandtelecom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: It's worth a shot... |
HI , i have just finished a couple of lancairs and will have many parts and
radio equipment left over. i bought a lot of stuff as packages. there are
some instruments as well.
i have also built an rv-4 and a harmon rocket so do know that many of the
things i have will suit the rv sircraft as well.
i will put a list together this week and if anyone is interested my email is
majh(at)islandtelecom.com
thanks.......marty
i also have a completed rv-6 tail section ready to install....
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
Date: Monday, May 07, 2001 1:51 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: It's worth a shot...
>
>Jake...
>
>What can you do for me in trade for some tail kit parts? Here is a list of
>things I am in need of to finish my -8:
>
>VSI
>G-meter
>comm
>intercom
>encoder
>exhaust / heating stuff
>I also have an AI and DG in need of overhaul...
>
>I have an almost complete (no horizontal stab parts), and fairly new (this
>year), tail kit for an RV-8(A) that I may be willing to let go in exchange
>for some of the above items...
>
>By the way... Don't let people on the list get you down. It take a lot of
>guts to do what you did, and the people that are bashing you just don't
have
>it in them to try it... Heck, I don't think I do either. :-) I respect
>that in you! This RV list is a great resource, and there are a lot of
great
>people on the list, so for sure stick around, and just let all the flak
just
>roll of...
>
>You can give me a call if you wish...
>
>Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
>RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
>http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>work: 719-540-1997
>home: 719-392-2829
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jacob Lauser
>Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 11:13 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: It's worth a shot...
>
>
>
>
>Hey folks! I'm new here, so I won't waste your time with a really long
>e-mail request. Here goes the short version:
>
>I'm a 22-year-old student who is determined to attempt the construction
>and flight of a Van's Aircraft RV-8 by the age of 25. I'm currently in A
>& P school at Sierra Academy of Aeronautics in Oakland, California, and,
>if all goes well, I will graduate from there in September with a brand,
>spanking-new FAA A & P technician license and a 95% average. As a
>student, however, I am quite broke. Most of my income is spent on car
>insurance for my beat-up, old Subaru, health insurance, and rent (with
>most of the rest paying for school). *cue the world's smallest violin*
>
>Have you ever seen the bum on the street corner holding a sign that
>reads, "Why lie, I need a beer?" Well, I would not be insulted in the
>least if you imagined me extending a cup and holding a sign saying, "Why
>lie, I need an RV." I know this is a long shot, but having secured the
>use of several recently vacated jigs, all the metal working/rivetting
>equipment I could ever need, and the generous donation of half a
>garage's worth of workspace (thanks, Jason!), the only thing I lack is
>the empennage kit itself. I should be gainfully employed at either
>United Airlines, Boeing, or in general aviation by the end of the year,
>thus facilitating the financial burden of the remaining RV-8 kits, but
>in the meantime I'm searching for generous individuals willing to help
>me finance the beginning of my plane (although I would be more than
>delighted to accept further assistance). In exchange, I will incorporate
>the names of those who sponsor me in the finished paint job (plus you'll
>have the ultimate satisfaction of saying, "I helped get that kid going!"
>while pointing at your name on the fuselage) So, if you're feeling
>generous, or you have a kit to gift me, PLEASE CALL!!! (or drop me an
>e-mail at the address below).
>
>Ok, stop laughing; I'm quite serious! But don't worry, I do realize the
>odds are slim to none so I won't be surprised when I have to hawk my
>soul to Van in exchange for a plane. But, as a great individual once
>said, "It never hurts to ask".
>
>Take care, and thanks for your time...
>
>Jake Lauser
>jrlauser(at)pacbell.net
>(925)957-0844 days
>(925)229-9997 nights
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer line fittings |
>
>I am getting ready to hook up primer and fuel lines, I am ordering a 5-way
>splitter block from ACS with 1/8 NPT ports for the primer, is it necessary
>to
>use NPT X flare on 1/8 copper or is it acceptable to use NPT X compression
>fittings? The comp fittings are cheaper and easier, I think they would hold
>up to vibration better too. I am also using the proper primer fitting at
>the
>cylinders.
>Thanks for the help almighty list
>Kevin in WA -9A
Kevin,
I used flared AN fittings on the copper lines coming from the gascolator, to
the primer pump, then from the pump up to a bulkhead "T" AN fitting. From
this point, the right side line goes straight to cylinder #1. (Cyl #3 has a
manifold pressure line on it). The left side line goes to a Swagelok
compression T fitting right under the intercylinder baffle between cylinders
2 and 4. From this fitting, short runs are made to each cylinder, with the
usual primer port fittings used. High quality compression fittings, of
which Swagelok has got to be one of the best, will work fine for small
tubing like this.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Field <jfield(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Canopy Installation |
I used countersunk screws only during construction to hold the conopy in
place while I fit the skirt etc. Later I used the rivets called for in the
plans. As far as torque values for the screws you might use I don't think
you could find a wrench that would go low enough. I would say snug them up
but NO more. I have some more ideas on the canopy. Mail me off the list if
you want.
John Field RV-4 Engine
>Hello posters
> As you know I had to replace my canopy on my RV-4 due to damage
>caused by vandals.Well I'm in the process of doing that but I would like to
>know if anyone has used countersinks screws instead of blind rivets to hold
>the canopy attach to the tubing.
> If yes,did you have to apply a specific torque to the screws to
>prevent any cracking or did you just tight them enough to hold the whole
>assy together.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canoe Impersonation vs. John Boat |
>
>Any body else out there have a good story? If so, I'm up for a good laugh.
>
Not much a story, but here goes. When folks ask me "you built this from a
quickbuild, right?" (This I take as a compliment.) I reply, "no, it's a
slow-build as quick as I could build it." Ain't much of a laugh generator,
but always gets a smile from the person. It pays to be courteous when
talking about our airplanes with newbies....to the tune of TWO $100
referrals from Van's for me....so far. hehe.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: It's worth a shot... |
Aww come on Bill, you serious? Guts? I think it takes more guts to get out
and earn it, not beg for it. Otherwise my kids have lots of guts. I don't
think so.
Chuck
> By the way... Don't let people on the list get you down. It take a lot
of
> guts to do what you did, and the people that are bashing you just don't
have
> it in them to try it... Heck, I don't think I do either. :-) I respect
> that in you!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Screw/Washers for wingtips |
-- jason baker wrote:
>
> All,
>
> I've seen some excellent wingtips...some attached with flush screws
> and
> a washer to facilitate removal and reassembly without scoring the
> paintjobs. Two Questions:
>
> 1) What washers were used (size and where to purchase).
>
> 2) There will be a need for a larger dimple to offset the washer
> size...what did u use.
>
>
> Jason Baker
I used the # 4 screw kit from Cleavland Aircraft Tools. For the
washers, I purchased NAS391B4P or WF-4 (I think they were the WF-4 as
they are cheaper.) that are 82 degree countersink. I recounter sinked
the Finishing washers with the dimple die I used on the wing skin. The
Finishing washers are smaller outside dia than your regular Tinnerman
washer. See page 96 in the 2000-2001 Spruce catalog.
Used the same dimple die.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
788+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
Hi Bob,
Don't be too hasty about throwing the "slightly" damaged skin out.
If the unwanted dimple turns out to be clear of the spar or any other
background structure put a -3 length rivet in the skin and move on. Later
you can hide it with some primer filler or you can loads of have fun telling
tall stories about it's secret reason for it's placement.
On the other hand, should it fall onto the spar area or some such background
structure that will not allow a rivet placement you can do as follows:
If the background structure is not primary in nature ( such as a spar )
dimple the mating rib flange and rivet as normal on assembly, then hide it
or tell stories as above.
If the rib flange edge distance is in question and you feel you can't see
drilling and dimpling the background structure you can
use just the tips of your rib fluting tool to make a relief for the unwanted
dimple.
lastly, you can carefully re- flatten the offending dimple so that the skin
will once again lay flat over the background structure, deburr the hole on
both sides and later Bondo that bugger. With care and a bit of Bondo or
filler of choice paint will hide the occasional screw up.
In all cases, when in doubt seek advice from someone that has the benefit of
trained expertise to evaluate and establish the advisability of your plan
for recovery. Failing that find that recent copy of Acceptable Methods,
Techniques, and Practices. Aircraft Inspection and Repair that you bought
before you started out on this RV adventure, and read, read, read.
As for Question #2; with a helper spread the skin open and dimple as normal
using the C-frame dimplier
You are right about stopping when tired. My most expensive mistreaks tend to
have been made when pushing to finish the task at hand..
Others will most likely have some other good and or better ways to fix this
minor dent in your HS and get you back sleeping and dreaming of loops and
rolls again at night.
My first mistreak on an outer surface, was just as you describe dead center
on my vertical stab.
If this helps we will both be happier.
Jim in Kelowna
-----Original Message -----
From: <MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2001 8:08 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dimpling..
>
> In a message dated 5/7/01 7:55:10 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> waalkes(at)netnitco.net writes:
>
>
> > Had some trouble on my HS last night.
> >
> > Problem #1 - While dimpling (and getting tired) I missed one of the
> > holes and hence I have a new hole where there shouldn't be one! I need
> > to fit the skin and see if it will hit a spar. What should I do with
> > this nasty hole? And worse, what to do if it does hit the spar???
> >
> > Problem #2 - How do you dimple the holes near the leading edge? Take
> > the dimple dies out and try to tap or just bend the skin way back?
> >
> > Thanks in advance for the help.
> >
> > Bob Waalkes
> > RV-8 Emp - Going to stop when I get tired from now on!
> >
> >
> >
>
> You have only 2 choices.......Put a rivet in it or throw it away, see that
> wasn't to hard now was it.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling/story |
Glenn,
<< Afterwards you release
the nail and female dye from your pop rivet gun and go
on to the next hole. If you break a nail just replace
with another nail. >>
When I first got my pop rivet dimple dye set, I was working away, as my wife
walked in I yelled, ( DAMN ) my wife said what's wrong honey, I said I just
broke a nail, She said ( Your kidding right!?)
true story
Scott
Tampa
rv6a finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
FYI -
http://www.airventure.org/2001/news/pop.html
====
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Watermellon Attack |
On the subject of watermelons,
Some old timers here in the 30's did a gig where they got a sucker out of
the audience and give him a pair of bightly colored coveralls. They loaded
the him up in a two hole biplane and taxied off to the far end of the
runway where, outta sight of the crowd the pax was unloaded.
The plane takes off, climbs up and comes by the crowd, nose up, over she
goes with a little forward stick at the inverted point, the engine quits and
a pair of bright colored coveralls full of watermelons falls out of the
airplane. One can imagine the impact, well needless to say it was a touch
too realistic and the crowd mobed the "body," women fainted, kids bawled and
had nightmares for months.
They never did it again. What a great show! even if it was only once....
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Watermellon Attack |
On the subject of tossing things out of airplanes - I read somewhere that
during WWII flight training it was considered fun to toss out a roll of
toilet paper which would turn into a very long vertical streamer and see who
could cut the paper the most times. I've always wanted to try it.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Watermellon Attack |
That's been known to happen well into the 21st century... Over an
unpopulated area I don't see what harm it could do. Not too many cows have
been killed by falling paper tubes. The farmer might want you to clean up
his field though. Job's not done until the paperwork is finished.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen Johnson [mailto:spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2001 2:29 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Watermellon Attack
On the subject of tossing things out of airplanes - I read
somewhere that
during WWII flight training it was considered fun to toss
out a roll of
toilet paper which would turn into a very long vertical
streamer and see who
could cut the paper the most times. I've always wanted to
try it.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | It's worth a shot..creative ways to finance an RV |
> From: Jacob Lauser <jrlauser(at)postoffice.pacbell.net>
> Subject: RV-List: It's worth a shot...
>
>
> Hey folks! I'm new here, so I won't waste your time with a really long
> e-mail request. Here goes the short version:
[remainder of unabashed and creative begging snipped for brevity :-) ]
Well, Jake did make me stop and think...maybe some of us have creative ways to
save
up for an RV...I'll throw a few out for consideration. None of 'em are giving
me
enough to buy the entire kit, but they'll finance some the engine and part of the
panel, if I keep at it...
- I've been sticking away a monthly allotment for savings bonds since before I
went
to the Gulf for the Southwest Asia War Games. I was going to use the $$ for my
instrument ticket, but now that I've gotten this far (not very!) on my airplane,
I'll just save it for the engine.
- I have a Gamewell fire alarm box that was given to me by the firefighters at
Cherry Point...the hole in the top is just a bit bigger than a quarter. Guess
where
all my spare change goes?
- Every time I make an ATM withdrawal, I try to remember to write the amount in
my
register for $5 more than the amount. When I balance the checkbook, voila'! A
few
bucks stashed away that I withdraw the next time I go tot he bank, and I put it
in
the fire alarm box.
Others may have more creative ideas. YMMV.
Semper Fi
John
RV-6 (flaps and ailerons, when I'm not on the road...)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PlaneWizz(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tony Bengilis |
Good info. Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <tomvelvick(at)home.com> |
Got to fly my previously owned rv-4 for the first time this morning
solo. I thought that I would tell the list how great it was to fly it.
Things I noticed.
Rudders seemed to be very effective on take off roll. Easy to
overcorrect. I advanced throttle slowly, plane was flying before I had the
throttle much more than 1/2 advanced. Controls are real light, lighter
that some other rv's I have been in. Climb was so much better than my
grumman Yankee that there is no comparison. Checked my stall speeds and
cruise speeds against gps. Seemed real close. I just replaced the pitot
tube and the static lines with vans standard setup. Top indicated speed I
saw was 165 knots at 5000 ft. Found a dirt road to use as a pratice runway
and did several approaches to it to get used to using flaps, etc. Had to
come almost all of the way off with power to get the speed down to 65 knots
on final. Nose angle to maintain 65 knots was a lot higher than I was used
to. Then went and explored around Lake Pleasant and returned to Deer
Valley. ATIS said winds were calm, but on final they were 70 degrees to
the left at 12 knots. After starting to flair the rv didnt even seem to
notice the crosswinds and it settled down nicely on all 3 tires. The
landing seemed to be way easier than landings Ive done in the Champ in a
crosswind. Surprised at how much effort it took to lower the manual
flaps. I cant tell you how delightful it was to fly. If felt perfectly
comfortable to be doing 45 degree or greater banks unlike some planes I
have flown. Visibility was great.
Things I didnt like:
HOT! only a 1 inch vent into cabin. Not near enough air for Phoenix,
AZ. Also need to find some kind of self adhesive sunsceen that I can move
around on the canopy to keep the sunlight off of head.
Trim is on the right side. Had to take right hand of stick to adjust it.
Noisier than my grumman.
GPS kept losing sync with satelittes because of being in my lap. Need to
remote mount the antenna up higher, probably on the roll bar.
Having to land and put it away until tomorrow.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
Peoria, AZ
N0233a rv-4
N188KJ rv-6a wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Thanks for the flight report! As a -4 builder I like to read things like
this so I know what I may run into in the future! Enjoy your -4!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Thomas Velvick [mailto:tomvelvick(at)home.com]
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2001 3:53 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: rv-4
Got to fly my previously owned rv-4 for the first time this
morning
solo. I thought that I would tell the list how great it was
to fly it.
Things I noticed.
Rudders seemed to be very effective on take off roll. Easy
to
overcorrect. I advanced throttle slowly, plane was flying
before I had the
throttle much more than 1/2 advanced. Controls are real
light, lighter
that some other rv's I have been in. Climb was so much
better than my
grumman Yankee that there is no comparison. Checked my stall
speeds and
cruise speeds against gps. Seemed real close. I just
replaced the pitot
tube and the static lines with vans standard setup. Top
indicated speed I
saw was 165 knots at 5000 ft. Found a dirt road to use as a
pratice runway
and did several approaches to it to get used to using flaps,
etc. Had to
come almost all of the way off with power to get the speed
down to 65 knots
on final. Nose angle to maintain 65 knots was a lot higher
than I was used
to. Then went and explored around Lake Pleasant and
returned to Deer
Valley. ATIS said winds were calm, but on final they were
70 degrees to
the left at 12 knots. After starting to flair the rv didnt
even seem to
notice the crosswinds and it settled down nicely on all 3
tires. The
landing seemed to be way easier than landings Ive done in
the Champ in a
crosswind. Surprised at how much effort it took to lower
the manual
flaps. I cant tell you how delightful it was to fly. If
felt perfectly
comfortable to be doing 45 degree or greater banks unlike
some planes I
have flown. Visibility was great.
Things I didnt like:
HOT! only a 1 inch vent into cabin. Not near enough air
for Phoenix,
AZ. Also need to find some kind of self adhesive sunsceen
that I can move
around on the canopy to keep the sunlight off of head.
Trim is on the right side. Had to take right hand of stick
to adjust it.
Noisier than my grumman.
GPS kept losing sync with satelittes because of being in my
lap. Need to
remote mount the antenna up higher, probably on the roll
bar.
Having to land and put it away until tomorrow.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
Peoria, AZ
N0233a rv-4
N188KJ rv-6a wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
SECONDED!!
> COM radio: consider the ICOM IC-A200, page 395 of ACS latest catalog.
> Inexpensive, reliable, puts out some POWER. (Line boy: "I always know it's
> you cuz your radio is so loud."). It has 9 memory channels, flip-flop to
> stand-by. I have it wired to my Infinity control grip and can change and
> flip-flop channels without touching the radio. Cool.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
Bob, CHILL!!!! We all make mistakes, and you will make more as time goes on.
You can fix your mistake and only you will know it. This is minor. When I
started I was like you, and to some degree I still am. As one finished
builder once told me, "you ain't going to make a perfect plane" at least not
your first one. Yes, we all want to and when stuff like this happens, chalk
it up to a lesson to be learned. Do not work when tired, and DON'T GET IN A
HURRY. All the pix and every mark on the drawings on the plans have a
purpose-STUDY THEM WELL! The guys here will help you in situations like this.
As for your problem, here is what I would do:
1. Question 1: Put a flush rivet in the hole and forget it.
or
fill it later with puddy-BTW, some guys cover all the rivets with a very
thin layer of puddy-time consuming and adds weight, but covers all your
mistakes along with some fine rivets. Some do it in the tail only, cause that
is when we make most of our mistakes. In your case you could putty the entire
HS.-I would put an extra rivet in it and cover only it with putty before
painting. If you only put a rivet in and left it with no putty, no one will
ever notice it.
If it is in line with the spar or rib and is not close to the edge drill
though and rivet all of it together.
I WOULD NOT REORDER ANOTHER SKIN!!!
2. I have another person holder the skin back as I dimple those up close to
the leading edge. However the pop rivet tool from Avery works great and that
is what I do now.
Bob, CHILL!!!!
Bob in Arkansas, doin wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
One of the things I've learned since starting my first plane--build the
first one for someone else and build another one to keep:-)
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2001 5:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dimpling..
Bhttp://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | C-792 "Dog House" for sliding canopy now available from Van's |
When I received my finish kit I thought Van's had shorted me the C-792 "Dog
House" that covers the aft canopy track. When I asked about it I was told
that Van's never has provided it but that they were planning on stamping
some out soon. Well, I just got mine so I thought I would let other builders
know that it's now available. The cost is $5.00 and the official part name
is "Canopy Slide Hood".
I don't have it installed yet but it looks as if it will be a fairly good
fit to the C-679 Slide Seal which is also available as an optional part from
Van's.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
wiring & waiting for engine from Aero Sport Power
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: When do I install the empennage fairing? |
Dean,
I have two molds for the -4, one is for a plane that had theleading edge
lowered, which is what you may have to do. We might be able to work something
out.
My web site is; www.fairings-etc.com
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Robert McCallum wrote:
>
>
>
> >FYI -
>
> >http://www.airventure.org/2001/news/pop.html
>
> Lets all hope this initiative is effective.
>
> Bob McC
>
I hate to play the role of the cynic here, but read the
'new' rules carefully & ask yourself what's really new here,
& why.
Hint: solicitation of more free labor is not new with the
EAA.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeffery Lorimor <jlorimor(at)willinet.net> |
The Boone, Iowa RV Bunch is going to have an RV flyin on Saturday, June 9.
We haven't had one for a couple of years now, so decided it's about time to
do it again. We'll have two new 6's flying since our last flyin. It will
be informal...stand around and talk to other RV'ers about building and
flying RV's. We plan to have a -7 empennage done for you to look at, and
could have some other RV parts and pieces available for your inspection.
Fly in or drive in.
For additional entertainment, there will be a new Kitfox to look at. It's
been built by a group of guys led by RV'er Keith Campbell, and is due to be
signed off by the FAA the same time Keith gets his new -6 signed off. They
should both be flying by the 9th.
Location: Boone Municipal Airport (BNW), Boone, Iowa
515-432-1018
Time: Sat. June 9, 10 AM til whenever the last person leaves
Food: coffee upon arrival. Lunch provided for free will donation
Program: nothing formal planned as of now
Raindate: Sunday, June 10.
See ya there.
Jeff & Peg Lorimor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry & Karen Gooding <GOODING(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Watermellon Attack |
>during WWII flight training it was considered fun to toss out a roll of
>toilet paper which would turn into a very long vertical streamer and see who
>could cut the paper the most times. I've always wanted to try it.
Steve - Cutting toilet paper is always on the schedule at Old Rheinbeck.
Be sure to buy new rolls and the good stuff fluffs out fastest. Spring of
99 they tried it with the previous season's supply and found themselves
chasing solid rolls to the ground.
RV toilet paper (as in Recreational Vehicle) will biodegrade more readily
than your standard house grade, and may be dissolved in rain or a body of
water by the time the farmer comes around.
If you have any left over you can "TP" a friend's plane at Sun n Fun or
Oskosh especially if a heavy dew is expected.
Karen Gooding
PA-17 PJ-3S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jdnewsum" <jdnewsum(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | RV6 QB kit question |
The RV6 QB kit ships with a 12 foot length of 3/4 X 3/4 X 0.063 angle.
After looking thru the plans I don't find anyplace that requires a
length longer than about 3 feet (seat back slot across the back of the
F-605). Can any 6 QB builders advise if there is any part of the kit
that will require a particular long piece of this angle before I trim
off a few small pieces from the 12 footer.
Thanks in advance
Dave Newsum
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The Main Squeeze |
I emailed Cleveland regarding the price. Here's their reply:
We still have the tool in production and have been unable to come up with a
firm price for it. Until we are sure of our cost it is difficult to find the
retail. We are hoping it will be around $150.00 with no yoke. If you would
like to send me your mailing info and phone number we will call you as soon
as we get a firm price and estimated delivery date.
Thank you,
Jensie Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, IA 50036
1-800-368-1822
Jensie(at)CleavelandTool.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Control Lock Idea |
For those that have yet to find a simple and easy control lock, I got
pictures of something that might interest you.
My buddy Paul Golias designed a very simple, easy to construct control
lock that can be installed without getting out of the plane.
Take a look and click on
Paul Golias Control Lock
http://bmnellis.com
Mike Nellis
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
RV-6 N699BM (reserved)N
Plainfield, IL (LOT)
Building Flaps
http://bmnellis.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Builder's Bookstore |
Listers-
Here's a short story about Builder's Bookstore. Remember how we got a message
about the new 21 years of the RV-ator being available? I placed an on-line
order Saturday for the update pages (because I'm a cheap kinda guy and didn't
want to spend the extra few bucks for the whole thing).
Well, yesterday my package showed up from builder's Bookstore with the whole
"21 years" book and an APLOLGY from Andy Gold. He said I'd have had to wait
for the supplement, and rather than have me wait, he sent the whole thing for
no extra charge.
Once again, he reinforces that some of the folks we deal with in this
business are the definition of integrity!
Ed Winne
RV-9A
Palmyra PA
________________________________________________________________________________
Listers-
A couple of years ago I bust a gut laughing at a Dave Barry article in the
newspaper about something called "car bowling", in which an old junk car is
parked on an unused runway somewhere, and planes bomb the car with old
bowling balls. The pilot/bombardier teams come in low and slow, and are
scored on direct hits.
One characteristic of the bowling balls is that "misses" that hit the runway
bounce back up almost as high as the plane that drops them! I can't wait to
find some yahoos and arrange a game! (have to build a bomb bay into my -9).
Ed Winne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vernatherm service bulletin |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 11:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: vernatherm service bulletin
Hi Andy,
I don't know what the actual SB says, but if you have such difficulty
removing it, have you considered to look up the correct torque-value and
loosen it with the torque-wrench to see if it has been over-torqued or
whether it is supposed to be that tight?
Marcel de ruiter
RV4/G-RVMJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 QB kit question |
Dave: I just completed a RV-6QB the .063 angle you inquired about will be
used all over the kit in small lengths, as a matter of fact I wasted some
and had to order more. Hope this helps.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB N602RV - Ready for first flight
----- Original Message -----
From: "jdnewsum" <jdnewsum(at)qwest.net>
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2001 11:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV6 QB kit question
>
> The RV6 QB kit ships with a 12 foot length of 3/4 X 3/4 X 0.063 angle.
> After looking thru the plans I don't find anyplace that requires a
> length longer than about 3 feet (seat back slot across the back of the
> F-605). Can any 6 QB builders advise if there is any part of the kit
> that will require a particular long piece of this angle before I trim
> off a few small pieces from the 12 footer.
>
> Thanks in advance
> Dave Newsum
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Control Lock Idea |
That guy Paul is some smart guy. You should keep him.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
Taking the RV-6A to the airport (I hope)
-----Original Message-----
For those that have yet to find a simple and easy control lock, I got
pictures of something that might interest you.
My buddy Paul Golias designed a very simple, easy to construct control
lock that can be installed without getting out of the plane.
Take a look and click on
Paul Golias Control Lock
http://bmnellis.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
>
>Had some trouble on my HS last night.
>
>Problem #2 - How do you dimple the holes near the leading edge? Take
>the dimple dies out and try to tap or just bend the skin way back?
One thing that I found helped a lot here was to put the nose of C-frame at
the edge of the bench, swap the male and female dies. Then you can do the
holes near the leading edge with the skin up side down. The other side of
the skin fit nicely under the top of my work bench. That way I didn't need
to bend the skin back as far.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Pittman" <SPITTMAN(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Flap Fit Question |
I am doing some final tweaking to my wings before storing them. I
noticed that the top of the flaps
do not quite fit flush with the top skins when in the retracted
position. There is an approximately .060" gap
at the root end that tapers to .030" at the tip end. Both flaps have
this gap. Both the top and bottom
skins are straight beyond the rear spar and the rear spar angles are
oriented correctly.
I realize that this is a cosmetic issue. Has anyone else encountered
this? I am considering shimming
the flap hinges to remove the gap.
Thanks for the input.
Scott Pittman
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rpflanze(at)iquest.net |
Jeff,
Make sure you go to www.vansairforce.net and post your event on Doug Reeves'
site. It's a great site that gets a bunch of traffic.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6
>
>The Boone, Iowa RV Bunch is going to have an RV flyin on Saturday, June 9.
>
>We haven't had one for a couple of years now, so decided it's about time to
>do it again. We'll have two new 6's flying since our last flyin. It will
>be informal...stand around and talk to other RV'ers about building and
>flying RV's. We plan to have a -7 empennage done for you to look at, and
>could have some other RV parts and pieces available for your inspection.
>Fly in or drive in.
>
>For additional entertainment, there will be a new Kitfox to look at. It's
>been built by a group of guys led by RV'er Keith Campbell, and is due to be
>signed off by the FAA the same time Keith gets his new -6 signed off. They
>should both be flying by the 9th.
>
>Location: Boone Municipal Airport (BNW), Boone, Iowa
> 515-432-1018
>Time: Sat. June 9, 10 AM til whenever the last person leaves
>Food: coffee upon arrival. Lunch provided for free will donation
>Program: nothing formal planned as of now
>Raindate: Sunday, June 10.
>
>See ya there.
>Jeff & Peg Lorimor
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Jantzi" <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | watermelons falling from the sky |
Shortly after I had the time flown off in my RV-6, a friend of mine was
married. I wanted to do something special for him and his new bride that was
aviation related. I had introduced him to flying 3-4 years earlier and he
got his private ticket not long after that. Anyway, I wanted to drop a load
of confetti out over the crowd at the reception which was held at a service
club in a rural area just north of the city of Hamilton ON. On further
reflection, another friend and I decided that sunflower seeds would be a
much more environmentally friendly thing to drop. Keep in mind this was in
the days before my RV was painted. So, we made two large tubes out of heavy
paper that we filled with about 60 pounds of seed each. A nylon fish line
was imbedded in each tube and threaded under the canopy into the cabin. The
five foot long tubes were duct taped into the wing root area on each side of
the fuselage. And away pilot and bombardier flew on a very secret but
important mission.
We located the target with some difficulty and I was a little dismayed to
learn how close it was to Hamilton (CYHM) airspace. There wasn't a soul in
sight outside the reception hall or in the parking lot. I hoped we had the
right location. I called Hamilton tower and told them I wanted to circle the
small hamlet of Rockton. No problem. We decided that we would have to do the
deed in one pass, and low, as we had no idea how far to lead the shot. I
have no idea what the terminal velocity of sunflower seeds is. The only
testing done was, dropping a handful out of a second story bedroom window on
to my unsuspecting wife. She was annoyed but uninjured. We lined up for the
pass and descended as low as I dared. About 200' from the target. My
passenger pulled the strings. From both sides of the airplane a dense black
cloud appeared and was gone, accompanied by a horrible noise. The low
pressure above the wing, it's a Bernoulli thing, sucked the seeds up in a
big plume and several thousand struck the leading edges of the tail in a
fraction of a second. The noise echoing back up the tail cone didn't sound
good. Hamilton tower called and wondered why we dropped off their radar.
Just prior to the run I had turned off the Mode C. Nothing, I "re-lied". We
are just heading back to Waterloo and I saw something of interest in a
field.
On the ground, the wedding reception dinner was just getting under way. The
minister was saying grace. Did I mention that the building had a tin roof?
We are still friends. There is lots of new sunflower growth in the area.
There wasn't any damage to the airplane.
Terry Jantzi
<<http://www.netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/>> Home Page
<<http://www.ontariorvators.org/>> VAFOW
<<http://www.iwantarocket.com>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rpflanze(at)iquest.net |
Keep the reports coming Tom. We all enjoy reading about new RVaitors learning
about their new bird.
BTW, where's Randy Lervold been since the first flight? I've been following
his progress on his web site to the point where I feel like part of the family.
Any new news???
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6
>
>Got to fly my previously owned rv-4 for the first time this morning
>solo. I thought that I would tell the list how great it was to fly it.
>Things I noticed.
>Rudders seemed to be very effective on take off roll. Easy to
>overcorrect. I advanced throttle slowly, plane was flying before I had the
>throttle much more than 1/2 advanced. Controls are real light, lighter
>that some other rv's I have been in. Climb was so much better than my
>grumman Yankee that there is no comparison. Checked my stall speeds and
>cruise speeds against gps. Seemed real close. I just replaced the pitot
>tube and the static lines with vans standard setup. Top indicated speed I
>saw was 165 knots at 5000 ft. Found a dirt road to use as a pratice runway
>and did several approaches to it to get used to using flaps, etc. Had to
>come almost all of the way off with power to get the speed down to 65 knots
>on final. Nose angle to maintain 65 knots was a lot higher than I was used
>to. Then went and explored around Lake Pleasant and returned to Deer
>Valley. ATIS said winds were calm, but on final they were 70 degrees to
>the left at 12 knots. After starting to flair the rv didnt even seem to
>notice the crosswinds and it settled down nicely on all 3 tires. The
>landing seemed to be way easier than landings Ive done in the Champ in a
>crosswind. Surprised at how much effort it took to lower the manual
>flaps. I cant tell you how delightful it was to fly. If felt perfectly
>comfortable to be doing 45 degree or greater banks unlike some planes I
>have flown. Visibility was great.
>
>Things I didnt like:
>HOT! only a 1 inch vent into cabin. Not near enough air for Phoenix,
>AZ. Also need to find some kind of self adhesive sunsceen that I can move
>around on the canopy to keep the sunlight off of head.
>Trim is on the right side. Had to take right hand of stick to adjust it.
>Noisier than my grumman.
>GPS kept losing sync with satelittes because of being in my lap. Need to
>remote mount the antenna up higher, probably on the roll bar.
>Having to land and put it away until tomorrow.
>
>Regards,
>Tom Velvick
>Peoria, AZ
>N0233a rv-4
>N188KJ rv-6a wiring
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <john.bright(at)bigfoot.com> |
Does anyone know what modifications I might do to my wings while I'm
building them to make the Jon Johanson tanks easier to install in the
future?
Anybody know a web address for Jon Johanson?
http://www.jonjohanson.on.net/ did not work for me.
John Bright
RV6A wings
Newport News, VA
john.bright(at)bigfoot.com
757-886-1161
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hangar space-China Lake Area |
Dale, here is a link to a photo I took yesterday in response to your
question:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/hangar16.html
Our hangar is almost exactly the same size as the one you are
considering. Two RVs fit very nicely and still give you room to walk
around.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
==================
DWENSING(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 5/6/01 10:08:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Emrath(at)home.com
> writes:
>
> << These are rectangular in shape, 33'deep x42'wide
> x12'door. >>
> To Marty in Brentwood TN.......can you get two RV's in that size hangar? Am
> currently putting together plans to build same size hangar on my home site
> and have wondered about size.
> Dale Ensing
> Aero Plantation NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Lock Idea |
What is that web site again. The one listed does not seem to work.
Thanks,
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Just sent a whole bunch of virus-ridden emails to me. Please check before
you open any attachments from him.
Doug, clean your system!
Now I have to clean mine!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "B. Jensen" <bjensen(at)integraonline.com> |
Jason,
> Have you ever seen the bum on the street corner
> holding a sign that
> reads, "Why lie, I need a beer?" Well, I would not
> be insulted in the
> least if you imagined me extending a cup and holding
> a sign saying, "Why
> lie, I need an RV."
At 22 years of age there is nothing wrong with dreaming. However, as
you "age", you will learn there is a big difference between "NEED" &
"WANT".
Right now you WANT an RV (I don't blame you) but you don't' NEED an
RV. If you really needed one, the friendly people on this forum would
gladly help you out.
Best,
BJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Gunn" <ggunn(at)uswest.net> |
Way to go Tom, thanks for the report. I guess this puts you one step closer to
flying your -6A. Can't wait to get there myself.
Gary Gunn
Thomas Velvick wrote:
>
> Got to fly my previously owned rv-4 for the first time this morning
> solo. I thought that I would tell the list how great it was to fly it.
> Things I noticed.
> Rudders seemed to be very effective on take off roll. Easy to
> overcorrect. I advanced throttle slowly, plane was flying before I had the
> throttle much more than 1/2 advanced. Controls are real light, lighter
> that some other rv's I have been in. Climb was so much better than my
> grumman Yankee that there is no comparison. Checked my stall speeds and
> cruise speeds against gps. Seemed real close. I just replaced the pitot
> tube and the static lines with vans standard setup. Top indicated speed I
> saw was 165 knots at 5000 ft. Found a dirt road to use as a pratice runway
> and did several approaches to it to get used to using flaps, etc. Had to
> come almost all of the way off with power to get the speed down to 65 knots
> on final. Nose angle to maintain 65 knots was a lot higher than I was used
> to. Then went and explored around Lake Pleasant and returned to Deer
> Valley. ATIS said winds were calm, but on final they were 70 degrees to
> the left at 12 knots. After starting to flair the rv didnt even seem to
> notice the crosswinds and it settled down nicely on all 3 tires. The
> landing seemed to be way easier than landings Ive done in the Champ in a
> crosswind. Surprised at how much effort it took to lower the manual
> flaps. I cant tell you how delightful it was to fly. If felt perfectly
> comfortable to be doing 45 degree or greater banks unlike some planes I
> have flown. Visibility was great.
>
> Things I didnt like:
> HOT! only a 1 inch vent into cabin. Not near enough air for Phoenix,
> AZ. Also need to find some kind of self adhesive sunsceen that I can move
> around on the canopy to keep the sunlight off of head.
> Trim is on the right side. Had to take right hand of stick to adjust it.
> Noisier than my grumman.
> GPS kept losing sync with satelittes because of being in my lap. Need to
> remote mount the antenna up higher, probably on the roll bar.
> Having to land and put it away until tomorrow.
>
> Regards,
> Tom Velvick
> Peoria, AZ
> N0233a rv-4
> N188KJ rv-6a wiring
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | RV-9A Right Elevator Question |
I've completed my right elevator except for the trailing edge, and I notice
the pre-drilled holes that are supposed to be on the top skin are actually
on the bottom! Has anyone else had this problem? It appears my right
elevator skin got punched upside down or bent inside out!
(Put down the flame throwers, I didn't get the right elevator mixed up with
the left!)
Anyway, I figure the way to fix the problem is to flip the elevator upside
down, and then put my 84 degree drill guide upside down on the bottom of the
elevator instead of the top. By my calculations, I should still get the
holes for the trailing edge rivets drilled at the correct angle, but being
mathematically challenged, I wanted to run this by the list before I
actually drill the holes.
Thanks in advance,
Mark Schrimmer
RV-9A
Irvine, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV8bldr" <RV8bldr(at)email.msn.com> |
Listers:
I used to believe that the Matronics list stripped attachments from e-mails,
but I received an e-mail this morning on this list that Norton identified as
containing a virus. The attachment was "New_Napster_Site.DOC.SCR". I don't
know if attachments can sneak through the list filter, or somehow come into
my machine via another e-mail and create the attachment after downloading,
but it's a fact that I wound up with an e-mail sitting in my RV-List mailbox
with an attachment that contained a virus. Norton recognized it, so no harm
done. Anyway, DO NOT open that attachment.
Russ Christopher
RV-8 Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Bell" <dbell(at)manisteenational.com> |
Guys,
I got hit with a virus on my email and I haven't even posted anything to the
list in a week or so....sorry, its that "open this attachment "one
I'll clean it up....
Sorry and be careful
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
John,
There are no special modifications needed to get the Jon Johansen tip
tanks in the wing. To make subsequent installation easier here's what I'd
suggest:
Drill the holes for running the fuel line from the tips to the main tank
before skinning the leading edge.
Put nut plates on the front of the spar in the first bay (from the tip) to
attach fuel pumps or check valves, whichever you decide to use.
I've put the tanks on my RV-8 wing and did it after the wing was done. The
whole plumbing job took only about two hours. I went with Facet fuel pumps
with internal check valves and the "smart switch" fuel transfer system.
If you like, I can send you copies of Jon's installation notes this
weekend and you can see what you need to do. His web address is in the
notes.
Bob
Rv8#423 working on fuselage.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
john.bright(at)bigfoot.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 9:04 AM
Subject: RV-List: Tip Tanks
Does anyone know what modifications I might do to my wings while I'm
building them to make the Jon Johanson tanks easier to install in the
future?
Anybody know a web address for Jon Johanson?
http://www.jonjohanson.on.net/ did not work for me.
John Bright
RV6A wings
Newport News, VA
john.bright(at)bigfoot.com
757-886-1161
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | RV-9A Quickbuild Fuselage |
I e-mailed Van's about a Quickbuild Fuselage for 9A builders who have
already started working on their wing kits and here's what they said:
Mark, we can do a 'fuse only' QB. It will cost about $3750 on top
of the standard fuse kit price. We will need the center section
bulkhead F-904 components sent back to us (these came with your wing
kit as they were match drilled with your spars) Then, the next time
we ship a batch of parts overseas (mid to late June), we will include
your 904 and an extra set of fuse parts. A fuse will then be built
up around your 904. If we sent it over in June, would probably take
4 months or so to get it back here to Van's. I'm guessing that it
would save you about 300-400hrs. on the build.
If you choose to do this, we will need to know within about two weeks
as we will be getting import clearances etc for the june shipment in
a couple weeks.
scott at van's
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap Fit Question |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
17, 2001) at 05/08/2001 12:41:03 PM
Hi Scott,
I have recently discovered a similar situation as I installed the flaps on
my -4. I have the same nominal 1/16" gap at the trailing edge of the top
skin when the flaps are fully retracted. The bottom skin of the wing
appears, however, to line up with the bottom skin of the flap. I have
convinced myself the problem is due to a little "turn-up" of the portion of
the top skin that extends aft of the rear spar. For some reason, this
portion of the skin does not seem to follow the contour established by the
wing ribs. As soon as I get my nerve up, I will make a simple fixture and
attempt to bend the trailing edge skin slightly -just enough to make it
follow the rib contour.
That being said, you may have a totally different problem, but it should be
fairly easy to check. Good luck.
Dean Pichon
RV-4
Arlington, MA
|--------+---------------------------------->
| | "Scott Pittman" |
| | |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
| | ronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 05/08/01 09:46 AM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv-list |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------------->
|
|
| To:
|
| cc:
|
| bcc:
|
| Subject: RV-List: Flap Fit Question
|
I am doing some final tweaking to my wings before storing them. I
noticed that the top of the flaps
do not quite fit flush with the top skins when in the retracted
position. There is an approximately .060" gap
at the root end that tapers to .030" at the tip end. Both flaps have
this gap. Both the top and bottom
skins are straight beyond the rear spar and the rear spar angles are
oriented correctly.
I realize that this is a cosmetic issue. Has anyone else encountered
this? I am considering shimming
the flap hinges to remove the gap.
Thanks for the input.
Scott Pittman
RV-4
**** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one of
Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may contain
confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee
only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not
the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV8bldr" <RV8bldr(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Virus not from Matronics list |
Listers:
I made a mistake thinking the e-mail I got this morning came through the
Matronics server. It was actually addressed to me, not the list, but it had
"RV-" in the subject which is the key for Outlook to file it in my "RV-List"
folder. Since it was sitting there with all my RV-List mail, I incorrectly
assumed it came through the Matronics server. It did not. It did contain a
virus, but it was sent directly to me, from another lister.
Sorry for any confusion I may have caused. I wonder if this is how some of
the other complaints of viruses making it through the RV-List could have
occurred???
Again, sorry if I caused any undue concern regarding the Matronics list.
Russ Christopher
RV-8 Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: C-792 "Dog House" for sliding canopy now available from Van's |
In a message dated 5/8/01 10:33:39 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
Im7shannon(at)aol.com writes:
<< got mine in the mail a week after I made and installed my own, so have an
extra one if any one needs it
Kevin >>
Kevin, I need one. Please contact me off list.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
I got hit with a bunch of emails from Doug this morning. They came directly
from his computer not through the RV-List server. The virus supplies the
subject line and it can appear to come from the Matronics server. I believe
Matt effectively blocks the viruses by banning attachments on email. If you
receive an email from the RV-List and it has an attachment, it ain't from
the RV-List!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: RV8bldr [mailto:RV8bldr(at)email.msn.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2001 9:20 AM
To: RV List
Subject: RV-List: Virus...
I used to believe that the Matronics list stripped
attachments from e-mails,
but I received an e-mail this morning on this list that
Norton identified as
containing a virus. The attachment was
"New_Napster_Site.DOC.SCR". I don't
know if attachments can sneak through the list filter, or
somehow come into
my machine via another e-mail and create the attachment
after downloading,
but it's a fact that I wound up with an e-mail sitting in my
RV-List mailbox
with an attachment that contained a virus. Norton recognized
it, so no harm
done. Anyway, DO NOT open that attachment.
Russ Christopher
RV-8 Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Navratil <czechsix(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | -8/8A Empennage wanted |
Wanted: FREE Empennage.
Ok, just kidding...but I am interested in a well-built, *straight* -8/8A
empennage if anyone has one for sale. My reason is that the empennage I
have was purchased secondhand, and while airworthy it is not pretty, or
straight. I am getting close to the point in my fuselage construction where
it's time to mount the empennage, and have been debating whether to use what
I've got (with lots of bondo, filler, etc) or reskin it, or just buy a new
one. Right now I don't really want to spend the time to rebuild what I have
so if anyone's got a completed empennage with GOOD workmanship let me know
asap....
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87", crappy empennage...
day (319) 295-9390
eve (319) 393-4234
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Parsons" <DAP(at)DParsons.com> |
I have tried a reverse lookup on the host name www.jonjohanson.on.net and am
getting an unknown host error. This means that there are no DNS servers
providing domain name services for that host name at this time. So... it is
clear that this is not just that the HTTP server www.jonjohanson.on.net is
down. It looks like the website has gone away unless the DNS server for that
host name is down for some reason. On.net is the domain name for Internode
Professional Access, and Australian ISP in Adelaide. I have checked it's
on-line directory of client websites. I did not find a listing for Jon
Johanson. I searched domain name databases for different combinations of Jon
Johanson and found nothing. It appears that he either no longer has a
website, or he has relocated, and it has not been picked up by the search
engines yet. I have sent an e-mail to the administrator for On.net net to
see if they have any helpful information. I will let you know what I get
back.
Don Parsons
-----Original Message-----
[...snip...]
Anybody know a web address for Jon Johanson?
http://www.jonjohanson.on.net/ did not work for me.
[...snip...]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris & Susie" <rv6(at)ssc.net.au> |
| Subject: | microair response |
To fellow RV builders I was not happy with the response some builders were
getting from Microair so I wrote to them and asked them what was going on.
Please read below. Seems a fair response.
Chris RV6
VH-MUM reserved
Dear Chris,
Thankyou for your email and the attached comments. As both a manuafacturer
and current pilots you always get exposure to user sentiment and you have
to
do your best to keep people happy. If there are problems out there then we
need to know , so our best advise is to contact us so we can work it out.
The little M760 was our first radio and alot of earlier units did have
problems , however, the current PMA'd versions seem to work fine . The new
760SL/SFL is a Tso'd unit , which should keep most happy.
The new unit is more expensive , but, unlike the A2000 , it has an inbuilt
Voice operated intercom with music input / fader etc as standard. Is 10
watts , Alphanumeric memories , voltage alerts and optional OAT. This is
the
reason for the price increase . Currently the M760 is USD $850.00 RRP and
the new com $1,300.00 RRP , but 10 or 15 % discount is the norm. AUD prices
are different due to the market place but are for internal sales only , not
export ( your price at $1,900 is quite a bit cheaper than the US ).
I hope the T2000 will be TSO'd soon , yes it has been always a few months
( more like 12 ! ) but what the USA pilots don't realise is that when a
foreign country applies for US TSO's , we get the back end of the stick ,
in
other words it's very hard. If a US tso'd product comes to Australia - it
gets accepted no questions asked - so much for a level playing field. If
more people knew this then they might be more sympathetic. Luckily, we have
a good following out there who ignore the few who carry on, orders for the
T2000 are now over 700 based on the need for a 57mm unit - so the odd few
that are carrying on need not buy one! The comments on customer service
seems a little strange , are these based on US distributors? If so then
that's out of our control , we have no control on individual operators who
sell our product and others. If this is a comment relating to Microair
directly then please forward the details of the person they talked to and it
will be delt with - I do not tollerate that type of service either!
If you want to please post this email response on the RV page, we have
nothing to hide here and welcome any good or bad feedback , my direct email
is n-andrews(at)microair.com.au if people want to contact me.
Thanks again for your interest.
Regards
Nigel Andrews
Technical Director
Ph 61 7 54635670
Fax 61 7 54635695
Mobile 0409098928
Email n-andrews(at)microair.com.au
www.microair.com.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Lock Idea |
The pic looks exactly on one of the two types of control locks commonly seen
on Stearmans. It's a great proven design.
-Glenn Gordon
N442E reserved
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2001 7:35 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Control Lock Idea
>
> That guy Paul is some smart guy. You should keep him.
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, VT
> Taking the RV-6A to the airport (I hope)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> For those that have yet to find a simple and easy control lock, I got
> pictures of something that might interest you.
>
> My buddy Paul Golias designed a very simple, easy to construct control
> lock that can be installed without getting out of the plane.
>
> Take a look and click on
> Paul Golias Control Lock
> http://bmnellis.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Car Bowling... |
> A couple of years ago I bust a gut laughing at a Dave Barry article in
the
> newspaper about something called "car bowling
A demonstration at an airshow in Germany made my entire week once. To show
the "lifting capacity" of a particular helicopter model, the Luftwaffe
lifted an old VW Bug painted in the white with green doors of the Polizei.
Gasp! Suddenly the VW "came loose", falling hundreds of feet to an
unoccupied field. Cheers from the crowd at the expense of the Polizei.
Ed Buck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | PSS AOA Indicator |
I'm almost finished my left wing (minus bottom skins) and making good
progress on the right wing (this one will be much quicker!). I plan to use
the PSS AOA system. I drilled 7/16" holes in the ribs for the standard 1/4"
grommets. I read that the AOA system requires 2 pcs. 1/8" tubes. Is this
outside diameter? Has anyone fitted both of these in ONE grommet?
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin Heisler" <majh(at)islandtelecom.com> |
HI , how about just building/extending the origional tank size by one or two
ribs outboard.?
-----Original Message-----
From: john.bright(at)bigfoot.com <john.bright(at)bigfoot.com>
Date: Tuesday, May 08, 2001 1:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Tip Tanks
>
>Does anyone know what modifications I might do to my wings while I'm
>building them to make the Jon Johanson tanks easier to install in the
>future?
>
>Anybody know a web address for Jon Johanson?
>
>http://www.jonjohanson.on.net/ did not work for me.
>
>
>John Bright
>RV6A wings
>Newport News, VA
>john.bright(at)bigfoot.com
>757-886-1161
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Right Elevator Question |
In a message dated 5/8/01 9:30:03 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net writes:
> Anyway, I figure the way to fix the problem is to flip the elevator upside
> down, and then put my 84 degree drill guide upside down on the bottom of the
> elevator instead of the top. By my calculations, I should still get the
> holes for the trailing edge rivets drilled at the correct angle, but being
> mathematically challenged, I wanted to run this by the list before I
> actually drill the holes.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Mark Schrimmer
> RV-9A
> Irvine, CA
>
>
>
Hey MARK...... just build it when you`re done, no one will ever know.. DNA
Fred LaForge RV-4 180 CS EAA tech counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | PSS AOA Indicator |
Are,
The tubes are 1/8" O.D.
Two of them will fit in a 1/4" I.D. grommet.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
I'm almost finished my left wing (minus bottom skins) and making good
progress on the right wing (this one will be much quicker!). I plan to use
the PSS AOA system. I drilled 7/16" holes in the ribs for the standard 1/4"
grommets. I read that the AOA system requires 2 pcs. 1/8" tubes. Is this
outside diameter? Has anyone fitted both of these in ONE grommet?
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Last - End Wing Rib |
Hi Guys (and Gals),
I'm looking for the last - end wing rib (left side & right side). I was
told the guys that buy the RV-4 to build Harmon Rockets or Rockets don't use
them because they have shorter wings. Anyone know a Rocket builder that has
a left over rib(s) let me know; I'm trying to fabricate up a new style of
sheared wing tips. Thanks,
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Parsons" <DAP(at)DParsons.com> |
I received a response from Internode Professional Access this evening. Jon
Johanson discontinued DNS services with Internode, and they don't have any
information regarding who he might have subsequently resumed services with.
So the URL http://www.jonjohanson.on.net/ is definitely no longer valid.
-----Original Message-----
[...snip...]
I have sent an e-mail to the administrator for On.net net to
see if they have any helpful information. I will let you know what I get
back.
[...snip...]
-----Original Message-----
[...snip...]
Anybody know a web address for Jon Johanson?
http://www.jonjohanson.on.net/ did not work for me.
[...snip...]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
I have the complete installation instructions for Jon's tip tanks here. I'll
send it over to you as a Word attachment off the list. If anyone else is
ionterested, please write me and I will promptly send you a copy.
Are
RV-8 WIngs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
john.bright(at)bigfoot.com
Sent: May 9, 2001 10:04 AM
Subject: RV-List: Tip Tanks
Does anyone know what modifications I might do to my wings while I'm
building them to make the Jon Johanson tanks easier to install in the
future?
Anybody know a web address for Jon Johanson?
http://www.jonjohanson.on.net/ did not work for me.
John Bright
RV6A wings
Newport News, VA
john.bright(at)bigfoot.com
757-886-1161
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Compton" <rdcompton(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | LIGHTSPEED QFR X/C |
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <JNice51355(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, May 07, 2001 10:25 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: LIGHTSPEED
>
>
> > Randy
> > Have you ever tried on a set of Lightspeed 15XL's. I have. The QFR
> series
> > has more passive attenuation, but comfort is the big question.
>
Jim:
I haven't tried the 15XL,s so I can't make a comparison. About the best
eval on comfort I can make is that for the max duration that I have flown
in
my RV-3 (about 2 1/2hrs) I have had no problems at all with comfort. No
"hot spots", vice grip feel, or any other nastiness. The QFR X/C feels
the
same in comfort as my Peltor 7004. Plus, the active attenuation reduces
noticably any fatigue due to operating in a noisy environment.
My only advice is to make sure that whoever you purchase from will let you
return the headset with no hassle if for some reason it does not work out.
I purchased mine from Marv Golden. They took the Denali back no questions
asked as long as it was still in new condition and all the stuff that comes
in the box was like new (ie. don't fill out the warranty card until you're
sure you're going to keep the headset.)
Hope this helps in your decision. Again, I'm a 100% satisfied QFR X/C
user.
Randy Compton
Gulf Breeze, FL
RV-3A N148CW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
I have sent out 5 of these already since my post and thought I'd make it
available for download for convenience. The instructions are comprehensive
and includes photos and a parts list. The instructions also describes how to
RETRO-FIT them.
Here's the link: www.avsim.com/hangar/fly/hangar/RVtiptanks.zip
You may want to check with your family doctor if you can get a bladder
implant or enlargement though. I have a 'party bladder' (I think it was
something I 'grew' in the Norwegian Navy) so I could do it. I drove to
Oshkosh last year. It took me 13 hours one-way and I only stopped ONCE for
relief each way. And NO, I did not have a relief tube (ala Harvard's and
Mustangs) in my truck. If you get a chance to fly in a Harvard by the way,
make sure you don't mistake this tube for an ol' fashion intercom.
Regards,
Are
RV-8 - Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Are Barstad
Sent: May 8, 2001 10:03 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Tip Tanks
I have the complete installation instructions for Jon's tip tanks here. I'll
send it over to you as a Word attachment off the list. If anyone else is
ionterested, please write me and I will promptly send you a copy.
Are
RV-8 WIngs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
john.bright(at)bigfoot.com
Sent: May 9, 2001 10:04 AM
Subject: RV-List: Tip Tanks
Does anyone know what modifications I might do to my wings while I'm
building them to make the Jon Johanson tanks easier to install in the
future?
Anybody know a web address for Jon Johanson?
http://www.jonjohanson.on.net/ did not work for me.
John Bright
RV6A wings
Newport News, VA
john.bright(at)bigfoot.com
757-886-1161
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Last - End Wing Rib |
just for the record. while the rocket wings are one bay shorter they still use
all the ribs. closer spacing is how this is done.
gary
Chuck Rabaut wrote:
>
> Hi Guys (and Gals),
>
> I'm looking for the last - end wing rib (left side & right side). I was
> told the guys that buy the RV-4 to build Harmon Rockets or Rockets don't use
> them because they have shorter wings. Anyone know a Rocket builder that has
> a left over rib(s) let me know; I'm trying to fabricate up a new style of
> sheared wing tips. Thanks,
>
> Chuck
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
Has anyone flying an RV8 noticed the violent tail shake yet? I cant
believe no one has mentioned this. For those who dont no what I am
talking about , It seems that the 8 has this funny little problem of
shaking its tail at about 75mph. The guess is that the new landing gear
location is causing flow seperation at high angles of attack. It is hard
enough to cause the tail to physically move . It also makes a hell of a
racket. Is it just me?Terry B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Key Switch Failures |
> I have one of Van's key/mags/start switches. It seems very similar to the
> ones in all the Cessnas I have ever rented. I am finalizing my fuseblock
> panel and for some reason I have been fixating on having two toggles and a
> push button mounted on this new hidden panel to back up the factory key
> switch on the panel.
[snip]
Norman,
My take on this is: KISS. Don't make it any more complicated than you have
to. The more crap you wire in, the more piotential failure points you have.
If it breaks you shouldn't be stuck -- it's easy to hot-wire. Carry a
screwdriver and some extra wire in your map box or even a patch cord with
alligator clip ends.
I went with just the toggles on the panel. No strong opinion either way,
just liked it better. I have had a key switch wear out in a Cessna but all
it meant was that the key wouldn't stay in and the switch could be turned
with any old thing. Didn't fail to ground or anything.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~200 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
Listers,
The panel planner that was put up for us to dream on really works quite well
for the intended use. Thanks Guys!!
Lately my RV is beginning to look more and more in need of paint. The
thought occurred that something similar to the panel planner could be done
for us non programmer/computer types.
The idea is that it would facilitate the trial and error type of planning
for paint job layouts. Right now for me is hard to picture pain schemes
using all the power my brain cell has on hand.
Every time I try to make this computer do graphics or any thing useful other
than email stuff I become very humbled and slink off back to my two car
garage that I call the RV Lair.
Is this an idea anybody out there would care to take on?
All my crayons are broke!
Jim in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Key Switch Failures |
In a message dated 5/8/01 7:58:45 PM Pacific Daylight Time, nhunger(at)sprint.ca
writes:
<< I have one of Van's key/mags/start switches. It seems very similar to the
ones in all the Cessnas I have ever rented. I am finalizing my fuseblock
panel and for some reason I have been fixating on having two toggles and a
push button mounted on this new hidden panel to back up the factory key
switch on the panel. The primary purpose of my aircraft is travel and I
don't want to get stuck anywhere. I would like to wire these extra switches
in parallel to all the functions of the key switch.
I would like to hear from anyone who has had one of these switches fail. I
met one guy recently and his start function cratered on his. How many of you
have had one quit?
I sought advice from an expert who questioned the need for the extra
switches. It's not too late for me to change my mind but I have to make the
decision soon. What's your opinion? >>
Contrary to Electric Bob, I like the key switch, provided you have the catch
diode on the starter contactor primary to prevent it's early demise. If it
failed it's still a no brainer to hot wire.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Last - End Wing Rib |
In a message dated 05/08/2001 5:59:06 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
crabaut(at)coalinga.com writes:
> Hi Guys (and Gals),
>
> I'm looking for the last - end wing rib (left side & right side). I was
> told the guys that buy the RV-4 to build Harmon Rockets or Rockets don't use
> them because they have shorter wings. Anyone know a Rocket builder that has
> a left over rib(s) let me know; I'm trying to fabricate up a new style of
> sheared wing tips. Thanks,
>
> Chuck
>
There are no left over ribs on the HR2. They are just spaced different than
on the RV-4 wing.
Jim Ayers
HR2 sn 269
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 tail shake |
> Has anyone flying an RV8 noticed the violent tail shake yet? I cant
> believe no one has mentioned this. For those who dont no what I am
> talking about , It seems that the 8 has this funny little problem of
> shaking its tail at about 75mph. The guess is that the new landing gear
> location is causing flow seperation at high angles of attack. It is hard
> enough to cause the tail to physically move . It also makes a hell of a
> racket. Is it just me?Terry B.
Yes, absolutely! I first noticed while in the back seat of an RV-8 doing my
transition training. It is part of the stall. The wings buffet very lightly
and then the entire empennage shakes noticeably -- makes you wish it was
attached with AN4 bolts instead of AN3! My plane does the same thing but
doesn't seem as bad as the plane I took my dual in. It may be just my
perception from the back seat though.
My no-power no-flaps stall speed is 71 mph and I get the shake concurrent
with that.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, 6.3 hrs.
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Key Switch Failures |
I went with switches instead of the key switch (thought either one is fine).
I agree with the KISS philosophy. Don't create any more potential points of
failure. Keep in mind that the airplane has two sets of spark plugs in case
either one fails or otherwise becomes disabled.
-Glenn Gordon
Office of Redundancy Office
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 12:20 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Key Switch Failures
>
> In a message dated 5/8/01 7:58:45 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
nhunger(at)sprint.ca
> writes:
>
> << I have one of Van's key/mags/start switches. It seems very similar to
the
> ones in all the Cessnas I have ever rented. I am finalizing my fuseblock
> panel and for some reason I have been fixating on having two toggles and
a
> push button mounted on this new hidden panel to back up the factory key
> switch on the panel. The primary purpose of my aircraft is travel and I
> don't want to get stuck anywhere. I would like to wire these extra
switches
> in parallel to all the functions of the key switch.
>
> I would like to hear from anyone who has had one of these switches fail.
I
> met one guy recently and his start function cratered on his. How many of
you
> have had one quit?
>
> I sought advice from an expert who questioned the need for the extra
> switches. It's not too late for me to change my mind but I have to make
the
> decision soon. What's your opinion? >>
>
> Contrary to Electric Bob, I like the key switch, provided you have the
catch
> diode on the starter contactor primary to prevent it's early demise. If
it
> failed it's still a no brainer to hot wire.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I get it a vibration at a little higher speed, but mine's not what I'd call
violent - just noticeable. BTW, how do you know for sure it's the tail? It
probably is, but I was wondering how you knew for sure. The only time I
notice it is when carrying passengers. Maybe this is a CG
related/aggravated thing? Or maybe I'm moving through this speed faster
when alone.
I have flown other planes that do this. A Cub I used to fly before
finishing my -8 did something like this, but I always thought it was some
harmonic between the engine and fuselage which showed at that low speed,
high power setting.
Maybe I'll try some different RPM settings next time and see if I can repeat
the vibration and what effect less RPM has. This might indicate what (or
what's not) exciting the vibration.
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
05/09/2001 09:48:34 AM
A post the other day talked about reducing the radius of your rudder in
order to stop the tail wagging in turbulence. Maybe your rudder trailing
edge is flying and since you have a longer fulcrum on the -8 it is more
exagerated than on other RV's therefore noticeable only on the -8. It could
be possible that your rudder trailing edge is stalling before the wing. We
know that trailing edges tend to "fly" as we can prove from squeezing the
ailerons. Look at Tracy Saylors six and you will see trailing edges that
are perfectly flat, he did this to eliminate drag since anything that flys
creates drag. Maybe one of you guys will volunteer to crimp the crap out of
your rudder (and buy the bridge I'm selling). Would be interesting to see.
So if this is the problem, and the rudder trailing edge is fluttering, does
the counterbalanced rudder help or hurt? Does a non-counterbalanced rudder
tend to dampen flutter faster than a counterbalanced? If you have two 50
pound brats sitting on a teeter-totter and you apply flutter to it, seems
it will move more than if you remove one of the brats and apply the same
force. Thats why those birds at Stuckeys that dip their beaks in the liquid
continously keep dipping. I wonder if Embry Riddle takes its students to
Stuckeys to study flutter?
Don't ask me, I'm just in charge of stirring the pot.
Eric Henson
"Jones, Bryan D." <bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>@matronics.com on
05/09/2001 08:28:38 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV8 tail shake
<bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
I get it a vibration at a little higher speed, but mine's not what I'd call
violent - just noticeable. BTW, how do you know for sure it's the tail?
It
probably is, but I was wondering how you knew for sure. The only time I
notice it is when carrying passengers. Maybe this is a CG
related/aggravated thing? Or maybe I'm moving through this speed faster
when alone.
I have flown other planes that do this. A Cub I used to fly before
finishing my -8 did something like this, but I always thought it was some
harmonic between the engine and fuselage which showed at that low speed,
high power setting.
Maybe I'll try some different RPM settings next time and see if I can
repeat
the vibration and what effect less RPM has. This might indicate what (or
what's not) exciting the vibration.
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Key Switch Failures |
> I would like to hear from anyone who has had one of these switches fail. I
> met one guy recently and his start function cratered on his. How many of
you
> have had one quit?
I'm in agreement with others that advocate KISS. Also, while redundancy is
a good thing it can be taken too far. I think a starter failure is far more
likely than a switch failure, but I wouldn't want to carry around a spare
one of those. As someone else mentioned, it would be a simple matter to pop
the key switch out and "jump" it if necessary. Since it isn't a safety of
flight issue, and is highly unlikely, I wouldn't add the extra weight and
failure points.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)micron.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
Consider how the fuel is going to enter the main tanks...
The instructions call for a check valve and a fitting in the outboard rib of
the main tank...if you haven't built the tanks yet, put the fittings in
during tank construction. With my QB I don't have that option, so I'm going
to cut out a plate similar to how the fuel guage sender is set up on the
other side of the tank to mount my fitting on. Putting the fitting on with
the tanks assembled looks like too much of a nightmare to me! The
alternative is to route the line all the way around the back of the tank and
feed in to a fitting on the fuel guage sender plate. I haven't made that
decision yet...
Ralph Capen
----- Original Message -----
From: <john.bright(at)bigfoot.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 9:03 AM
Subject: RV-List: Tip Tanks
>
> Does anyone know what modifications I might do to my wings while I'm
> building them to make the Jon Johanson tanks easier to install in the
> future?
>
> Anybody know a web address for Jon Johanson?
>
> http://www.jonjohanson.on.net/ did not work for me.
>
>
> John Bright
> RV6A wings
> Newport News, VA
> john.bright(at)bigfoot.com
> 757-886-1161
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
"RV-List Digest (E-mail)"
Jim,
This question gets asked all the time.
Lately my RV is beginning to look more and more in need of paint. The
thought occurred that something similar to the panel planner could be done
for us non programmer/computer types. The idea is that it would facilitate
the trial and error type of planning
for paint job layouts. Right now for me is hard to picture pain schemes
using all the power my brain cell has on hand.
You can easily use Microsoft Paint to color an electronic paint scheme for
your bird. I have several examples on my website. Many of the RV guys have
them on theirs too.
All you need to do is to find a site with a 3-view drawing of your RV type
and it's easy to copy it to your computer. Just right click on the drawing
from the website and then "save picture as" whatever name you want to
whatever folder you choose.
Then go to "Start", "programs", "acessories", and click on "Paint". Then
open your previously saved file and color away. It's easy.
Vince Frazier
Harmon Rocket II ... the fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
http://www.usi.edu/CHEM/FACULTY/vfrazier/page1.html
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Topic: RV-List: RV8 tail shake
Thread-Index: AcDYkg09xMLqO8GKTmqn0zDA3iyYawAAQADQ
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Hi Eric,
Take a look at the fast Glasairs and Lancairs and you will notice their
trailing edges are very blunt-they're sanded square. Those guys know
something about going fast. At SNF, I was parked a few planes down from
Tracy and talked to him about his trailing edges. He said he couldn't
tell if there was an increase in speed. I have a new rudder on the bench
that is complete but I have yet to do the fiberglass tips...been a
slacker lately, would rather spend the time flying rather than working
with that "other" stuff. I received my fuel bill yesterday for last
month and maybe I should be working on the rudder after all. Anyway, my
new rudder is .020 and the trailing edge has a larger radius than the
one on my plane; I anticipate the rudder forces will be lighter but
we'll see. On my airplane the tail wags in turbulence but if I keep my
feet on the pedals it dampens the oscillations.
I don't think the trailing edges are stalling, because if it were the
case it would be prevalent on all RV's. My guess is that the airflow
over the big canopy on the RV-8 is separating in conditions of certain
AOA and airspeed. Traumahawks exhibit the same behavior and that's
where they got their bad reputation.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 128 hours
F1 tail on order
>ailerons. Look at Tracy Saylors six and you will see trailing edges
that
>are perfectly flat, he did this to eliminate drag since anything that
flys
>creates drag. Maybe one of you guys will volunteer to crimp the crap
out of
>your rudder (and buy the bridge I'm selling). Would be interesting to
see.
>So if this is the problem, and the rudder trailing edge is fluttering,
does
>the counterbalanced rudder help or hurt? Does a non-counterbalanced
rudder
>tend to dampen flutter faster than a counterbalanced? If you have two
50
>pound brats sitting on a teeter-totter and you apply flutter to it,
seems
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Parsons" <DAP(at)DParsons.com> |
I would be interested. Thanks for offering. Is it something that can be
posted. If so, I know of some space where it can be posted for anyone to
download.
Don Parsons
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Are Barstad
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2001 9:03 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Tip Tanks
I have the complete installation instructions for Jon's tip tanks here. I'll
send it over to you as a Word attachment off the list. If anyone else is
ionterested, please write me and I will promptly send you a copy.
Are
RV-8 WIngs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
john.bright(at)bigfoot.com
Sent: May 9, 2001 10:04 AM
Subject: RV-List: Tip Tanks
Does anyone know what modifications I might do to my wings while I'm
building them to make the Jon Johanson tanks easier to install in the
future?
Anybody know a web address for Jon Johanson?
http://www.jonjohanson.on.net/ did not work for me.
John Bright
RV6A wings
Newport News, VA
john.bright(at)bigfoot.com
757-886-1161
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Bell" <dbell(at)manisteenational.com> |
| Subject: | Doug Bell no Virus now |
Guys,
My machine is now clean of the virus, I apologize to you all and thanks for
all the responses to the virus that I recieved....I got more reply's to the
note I didn't even send(i guess that what this thing did) than messages I
actually post. Well, the tech just left my office and says the virus was a
nasty little thing and is new and level 4, which is bad. Nothing a $60.00
service call won't handle!
Anyway, My machine is now clean and good to go,....now back to the
rv8...shooting for early June to spin the prop under its own power....
Doug Bell
________________________________________________________________________________
I'm looking for one of the red LED map lights that Van's used to sell a
couple of years ago. It's not the eyeball type - the one I need has three
LED's and is articulated for pan and tilt adjustment.
If anyone has one they'd sell me or knows where I could get one, please let
me know off the list.
Thanks
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
"
\"Jeff Jasinsky\"" ,
, "Brian Denk" ,
| Subject: | The first 6 hours |
Fellow listers,
First off let me apologize for taking so long to make this post. I hope you
understand, I've been thinking about nothing but getting the early bugs
worked out and flight testing. I've already posted about my first flight
last thursday and in it I mentioned that I had a very high indicated #3 CHT,
a left rolling tendency, and an inop fuel gauge (new that before flying), so
let's pick up where I left off.
Maybe it's just me, but at this point I'd really rather address some of the
squawks than fly the thing. Don't get me wrong, flying it is an absolute
joy, and I can see where this airplane and I will truly become one, but
having been a machine-head my whole life (cars, motorcycles, etc.) it really
bugs me to operate it with a known problem. There's just something wonderful
about having your prize machine cruising along in perfect harmony. Having
something out of whack somehow destroys that state of mechanical bliss.
Having now flown 6 hours it's time to get this stuff taken care of.
****SQUAWKS***
HIGH CHT ON #3:
On my second flight, where I left the pattern of my home
airport, during a climb to 5,000 feet my #3 CHT got up to 530 degrees F. I
was somewhat frantically switching cylinders and watching them all and
trying to decide if I should land immediately. All of them were around 380
so I strongly suspected a sender problem and continued but made sure I kept
my airspeed up for cooling. The reason I suspected the sender is that the 1,
2, and 4 are identical senders from Electronics International while the one
on #3 came from Unison and is a bayonet mount rather than a screw-in. This
is done to provide a CHT signal for the LASAR ignition as well as a signal
for the gauge. There were two versions of this twin tailed sender available
and I was never really clear that I was sent the proper one. Of course I
couldn't get ahold of anyone at Unison that day, and Bart Lalonde didn't
know for sure which one was correct. So I took matters into my own hands and
moved the #1 sensor, which I knew worked, and put into the #3 hole. I left
the #3 twin tail item tied back so it would essentially read air temp in the
engine compartment. On the next flight #1 on the gauge, which was of course
really #3 was running about 20 hotter than 1, 2, and 4. Ha, there never was
a problem. During a subsequent flight at high altitude cruise the #3
cylinder takes over as the hottest, otherwise #3 is. Harry Fenton from
Unison returned my call from the road yesterday and clarified which sender
is correct and Sue at Aero Sport Power is sending me another one in
exchange, n/c. Problem solved, on to the next one.
LEFT WING HEAVY:
Seems like many first flight reports indicate that the
left wing was heavy and that the solution ended up being a minor bit of
squeezing of the aileron trailing edge. I am fortunate enough to live in the
Portland area and be in the same builder's group and EAA chapter with Jerry
Vangrunsven, generally accepted guru of aileron tweaking. The timing was
perfect, I ran into him at the chapter pancake breakfast on Saturday and he
agreed to come over to Pearson midday. He showed up with his plastic ruler
in hand and proceed to scrutinize my ailerons. We found some very minor
areas of slight overbending and in fact did some light tapping on the left
aileron in an effort to lighten it up. Otherwise he pronounced "these
ailerons are so perfect I wouldn't mess with them". I was quite dismayed
when I took it up later that day and the left roll was completely unchanged.
In fact it was seeming worse because I was getting more sensitive to the
airplane. Hmm. The next day I was flying again after making a few more
changes and landed at Scappoose to visually check my fuel levels... I was
trying to run one tank out prepatory to removing the left sender (Prosealed
on, great) which I thought was bad. I hadn't done a very good job of keeping
track of time and didn't want to run that tank out when at low altitude.
Anyway, I got to talking with another builder there about the roll and he
started talking about how Giles (located at Scappoose also) adjusts their
ailerons up and down to both correct roll and also in search of speed. As I
was walking back to my plane I started thinking... were my ailerons mounted
correctly? I reached the plane and did a visual check. I was able to stick 3
keys between the aileron and wing skin at both ends of the right aileron
with the aileron held in trail. I switched to the other side, the same 3
keys fit in the inboard end just fine, but only two would fit in the
outboard end. To shorten the story I discovered that my left aileron is
mounted 1/8 - 3/16" high at the outboard end. Great news! this should be the
cause of the roll and is relatively easy to fix. Just remove the wing tip
and back drill another outboard bracket... glad it wasn't the inner! Last
night I did that but have yet to fly the plane. Keep your fingers crossed
for me, but I'm optimistic.
POOR COM PERFORMANCE:
My brand new UPSAT SL40 could barely raise Portland tower from about 5 miles
out. Also, my 172 buddy could get SPB ASOS from 10 miles out and I
couldn't... something obviously wrong. Troubleshot it to a shorted BNC
connector at the antenna. The short was not a dead short and was somewhat
intermittent. Apparently one little strand of that ground braid got caught
somewhere. Once again, builder error.
BAD FUEL SENDER: I have the E.I. FL-2R fuel gauge... I'm a sucker for trick
electronic stuff that makes your life easier. Anway, when I energized the
gauge for the first time the right tank read dead empty, as it should, and
the left tank read full. Hmm. Called EI and they said to disregard it until
I had done my programming. If you're unfamiliar with this unit you level the
plane, put the gauge in programming mode, and press a button with each two
gallons you put in. This creates a memory in the gauge that corresponds to
an impedance at the sender. It's even smart enough to know that the top few
gallons aren't readable due to the sender topping out. Anyway, programming
failed and the value the gauge displayed indicated a value out of range...
probably a short. The left side must be programmed before the right can be
completed so programming was aborted. To again shorten the story, I later
took a bunch of the interior out so I could search for the short and
troubleshoot the bad com antenna.
Methodically tracking it down we first determined that it was NOT the
sender... fantastic, don't have to take that Prosealed cover off. Working
upstream I found that the sender wire was caught under a nut and washer that
was tightened down on top of. Yep, me the meticulous builder did that. Ok,
left short solved, let's calibrate this sucker and get on with it. Fly the
left tank empty, drain the right tank, drag it out to the fuel dock and lift
up the back end... a huge hassle by the way. Left calibration goes
perfectly, switch to right. What's this, the values are not increasing as we
add fuel. Great. The next while measuring the impedance at the right
sender I discovered that the sender was sticking. It apparently too
overnight for the sender to raise up to the fuel level. And now with no fuel
it banging on the tank to get it to drop. Ok, gotta rip the sender out and
replace it. Last night I didn't have the right tools but will finish it
tonight, then wait two days for the Proseal to cure adequately.
FLYING:
Now to the good part! Having had 6 hrs of transition training I knew
how the airplane should feel. Frankly I can't even imagine attempting to
make a first flight in an RV without some transition training. They do not
perform like Cessnas! As a result I really wasn't anxious about flying the
plane, just that the engine would keep running or that some other sort of
systems failure would occur. Of course once you push that throttle forward
you forget all that and focus on the task at hand. Anyway, in terms of
flying it, the thing I found most difficult, and still haven't mastered, is
altitude control. As Brian Denk has pointed out your sight picture out the
front of the plane is very different than a spam can. Also, the range of
attitudes the plane flies at the various airspeeds takes some getting used
to. At 120 mph in the pattern it flies tail low and you begin to use it as a
reference. Then when you get out and get the airspeed up above 150 the tail
comes up quite a bit and it's a different picture thus if you use the other
reference you will be climbing, and fast. So watching the VSI and getting
tuned into the different attitudes becomes the rigor. Here's what really
shows it. Take off and hold it 50 feet off the runway. In the space of a
normal 3,000 foot runway the plane will continue to accelerate and gain
airspeed. In order to maintain that 50 feet you must continually keep
adjusting the nose down or it will climb. It feels like you will push the
plane over on it's nose but it's just the attitude it needs for the various
airspeeds. At the end of the runway you're doing maybe 150-160 and of course
you do a pull-up and you're at pattern altitude in about 3 seconds. Anyway,
suffice it to say that the range of attitudes the plane goes through as it
changes airspeed seems dramatic, more than any other plane I've flown, and
will take some getting used to.
Learning to land these planes in my transition training was interesting.
Again, almost all of my flight time to day has been in Cessnas and
Citabrias. What I learned is that you don't flare per se. Rather you bring
it in and round it out to takeoff (3 point) attitude and let it settle on.
To me a flare is a more dramatic maneuver whereas a roundout is more subtle.
My instructor was adamant that I become skilled at two things: the ability
to judge the 3 point attitude, and the ability/willlingness to execute a
go-round if I bounced too high. Oh, you *will* bounce by the way. When (not
if) you bounce it is imperative to resist the temptation to bring the nose
up further as you might with a Cessna. If you have it locked in at the 3
point attitude and give it a gentle nudge of power it will settle back down.
As seems common first flights my first landing was an absolute greaser. In
looking at the pics It wasn't a 3 point, the tail was still up maybe 6". I
still need a whole lotta practice at getting just the right attitude and
letting it settle on. In the maybe dozen landings I've made in my 6 hours I
think I'm also rushing things. Watching a Giles pilot skillfully glide his
plane onto the runway I could see that he was taking his time and using
plenty of runway. I am now convinced I need to take more time and not rush
to get on the ground. I've been exiting at the first taxiway... no reason
for that, especially while I'm learning.
Now for some numbers:
Empty weight: 1,118
Empty CG:
Cruise (7,500 ft, 2400 rpm, full throttle, 23.5" MAP)
IAS: 187 mph
TAS: 207 mph
CHTs: #2 307, #3 330, #4 298
Oil temp: 178 F.
Oil press: 72 psi
Stalls (power off):
no flaps: 71 mph IAS
w/flaps: 61 mph IAS
Stalls (part power):
no flaps: 65
w/flaps: 58
Oil temps and CHTs have been fantastic. My oil temps flying around at lower
altitudes, including 4,000 ft climbs, are usually 195 and have never gone
over 205. CHTs are also right in line with #3 being the hottest (typical as
I understand it) at 440 during a longer climb. My understanding is that
these will come down as I get more time on it.
Regarding these cruise speeds: my LASAR unit is in backup mode due to the
CHT sensor being disconnected. Harry Fenton at Unison tells me I'll gain
something when it's advancing properly. Also I have no upper gear leg
intersection fairings yet. I think there's another 3 mph here eventually.
Oh yea, the FAA inspector that my DAR reports to called me today. Seems he
didn't agree with the DAR's 25 hour test period and changed it to 40.
Technically he is correct as I have an uncertified Aero Sport Power O-360
AIA. He wasn't swayed by the fact that all ADs for the Lycoming version had
been checked and complied with, the data plate says "Aero Sport Power". Ok,
I expected that anyway even though several other local guys with Bart motors
got the 25. That 50 mile radius is already starting to feel small however.
Whew, sorry for all the rambling, but I wanted to get this posted. I just
updated my web site last night with more pics and have more to add over the
next few weeks.
Hope I haven't bored you!
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, N558RL, 6 hrs.
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PSS AOA Indicator |
Are,
I have the same system and ran mine as you are proposing. No problem.
Bill Christie, RV8A fuselage, Phoenix (getting warm here!!)
----- Original Message -----
From: Are Barstad <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2001 3:47 PM
Subject: RV-List: PSS AOA Indicator
>
> I'm almost finished my left wing (minus bottom skins) and making good
> progress on the right wing (this one will be much quicker!). I plan to use
> the PSS AOA system. I drilled 7/16" holes in the ribs for the standard
1/4"
> grommets. I read that the AOA system requires 2 pcs. 1/8" tubes. Is this
> outside diameter? Has anyone fitted both of these in ONE grommet?
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 tail shake |
> I don't think the trailing edges are stalling, because if it were the
> case it would be prevalent on all RV's. My guess is that the airflow
> over the big canopy on the RV-8 is separating in conditions of certain
> AOA and airspeed. Traumahawks exhibit the same behavior and that's
> where they got their bad reputation.
My guess is that the wings are sending turbulent air to the HS, and/or
blanking them, at that price angle of attack that they being to stall. I
don't know yet, but I think it's worse when two up.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, N558RL, 6.3 hrs.
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: DPDT? What the? |
bill
send me your fax number i will fax you a diagram
scott
tampa
rv6a fininshing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 tail shake |
>
>Has anyone flying an RV8 noticed the violent tail shake yet? I cant
>believe no one has mentioned this. For those who dont no what I am
>talking about , It seems that the 8 has this funny little problem of
>shaking its tail at about 75mph. The guess is that the new landing gear
>location is causing flow seperation at high angles of attack. It is hard
>enough to cause the tail to physically move . It also makes a hell of a
>racket. Is it just me?Terry B.
Nope, it's not just you. My airplane makes a helluva racket back in the
tail section but only as it approaches a stall. The first time I kicked it
into a spin, it REALLY made a lot of noise! It was kinda like a "rattle
rattle rattle kaBOOM!" Really got my attention. I think part of the noise
is coming from the belly skin between the 808 and 809 bulkheads, which is
pretty soft and oil cans alot.
I checked the tail structure quite thoroughly during my annual last December
and found absolutely no signs of stress or wear. So, it must just be a
unique, albeit alarming, behaviour of the RV8.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
203 hrs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Compression Test |
Eric,
The best reading - the most accurate way to determine the compression
capabilities of your engine is to run it on a dyno. Next best is to fly it!
Compression tests are, in my not very humble opinion, of much less value
than commonly thought. They tell us about the air compressing capabilities
of an engine that is in a state that we really don't care about. We care
about the ability of the engine to compress the air-fuel mixture at speed.
As long as each cylinder does the "suck - squeeze - bang - ptui" okay it is
okay as far as compression goes. One bad cylinder will, of course, show up
as reduced performance, especially in climb.
My understanding is that the proper reading is the **BEST** reading that can
be obtained without adding oil to the cylinder. Moving this way and that,
'staking' the valves etc is all proper to getting happy compression
readings. That is the one to put in your logbook.
Seems to me odd that we log compression but not oil pressure or vibration
analysis or other measures of overall engine health. Maybe they don't make
vibration analyzers that can deal with Lycs. :-)
hal
> Which reading is correct? Did my moving the piston back and forth seat
the rings? or did I somehow cause a false reading. Both readings were taken
with the piston at TDC and the prop had no resistance.
> The other cylinders had 74/80, 72/80, 74/80.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh(at)qualcomm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 tail shake |
This may not be related to your problem but on page 37 of "18 years of
RV-Ator" there is a comment titled "Elevator & Rudder Trailing Edge
Radius". The problem described is specific to RV-4's and talks about a
elevator shake at 175 mph. The solution, after very careful scrutiny, was
a very slight bulge in the trailing edge of the elevator. The bulge was so
small that it was missed the first few time it was inspected. Squeezing
the bulge down cured the problem.
I know the symptoms are different in that yours is an RV-8 and the shake is
happening at a much lower speed but..........
Hope this helps,
scot
>
>
> >
> >Has anyone flying an RV8 noticed the violent tail shake yet? I cant
> >believe no one has mentioned this. For those who dont no what I am
> >talking about , It seems that the 8 has this funny little problem of
> >shaking its tail at about 75mph. The guess is that the new landing gear
> >location is causing flow seperation at high angles of attack. It is hard
> >enough to cause the tail to physically move . It also makes a hell of a
> >racket. Is it just me?Terry B.
>
>Nope, it's not just you. My airplane makes a helluva racket back in the
>tail section but only as it approaches a stall. The first time I kicked it
>into a spin, it REALLY made a lot of noise! It was kinda like a "rattle
>rattle rattle kaBOOM!" Really got my attention. I think part of the noise
>is coming from the belly skin between the 808 and 809 bulkheads, which is
>pretty soft and oil cans alot.
>
>I checked the tail structure quite thoroughly during my annual last December
>and found absolutely no signs of stress or wear. So, it must just be a
>unique, albeit alarming, behaviour of the RV8.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>203 hrs.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paint planner ? |
| From: | Scott.Fink(at)microchip.com |
05/09/2001 10:28:01 AM,
Serialize complete at 05/09/2001 10:28:01 AM
I have the three view plan from Van scanned and made into a line drawing
in CorelDraw format so you can paint and play around with it if anybody
wants it. Let me know OFF LIST if you would like me to send it to you.
The progress drawing on my web site at:
http://www.users.qwest.net/~batfinks/RV.htm was derived from it if you
want an idea of what it looks like.
Scott Fink
RV-6 Preparing to close out the Left wing
"jim jewell"
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
05/08/2001 09:37 PM
Please respond to rv-list
To:
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Paint planner ?
Listers,
The panel planner that was put up for us to dream on really works quite
well
for the intended use. Thanks Guys!!
Lately my RV is beginning to look more and more in need of paint. The
thought occurred that something similar to the panel planner could be done
for us non programmer/computer types.
The idea is that it would facilitate the trial and error type of planning
for paint job layouts. Right now for me is hard to picture pain schemes
using all the power my brain cell has on hand.
Every time I try to make this computer do graphics or any thing useful
other
than email stuff I become very humbled and slink off back to my two car
garage that I call the RV Lair.
Is this an idea anybody out there would care to take on?
All my crayons are broke!
Jim in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Trim switch mounts how? |
I mounted my stock from Van's trim switch so that pushing the top of the
rocker makes the nose go down. Uh, I'm thinking later, shouldn't the up
part make the nose go up or????
Feels best how I have it. Am I just weird?
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
Something I do differently solo than with passengers is taking off with
flaps extended. Maybe this is a vortex off the flaps affecting the
horizontal stab. Has anyone else noticed a correlation between flap
settings and the vibration?
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ
Pearland, Texas
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy Lervold [mailto:randy@rv-8.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 11:26 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 tail shake
> I don't think the trailing edges are stalling, because if it were the
> case it would be prevalent on all RV's. My guess is that the airflow
> over the big canopy on the RV-8 is separating in conditions of certain
> AOA and airspeed. Traumahawks exhibit the same behavior and that's
> where they got their bad reputation.
My guess is that the wings are sending turbulent air to the HS, and/or
blanking them, at that price angle of attack that they being to stall. I
don't know yet, but I think it's worse when two up.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, N558RL, 6.3 hrs.
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | The first 6 hours -landings |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: The first 6 hours
Thread-Index: AcDYqYbT/J6moBnsTGGJ5WwP/Bd1dgABL2hg
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Heck, Randy, your email sure didn't bore me...make me want to leave work
and go play! Damn, I just got an email from a fellow RVer about going
flying this afternoon. Sucks when work gets in the way of flying.
About your adjustment of your test time to 40 hours, consider it a
blessing. You put a lot of pressure on yourself to get all the bugs
worked out, learning your plane, and getting comfortable with it. I had
a 25-hour test period, but it wasn't until I had 50-60 hours on the
plane where I felt all the bugs were worked out, and that I wasn't along
for the ride anymore. That 40 hours will give you more time to deflate,
and have some fun getting to know your bird. You'll probably have that
40 hours flown off in the next two weeks!
The biggest thing about landings is: RELAX. Eight out of ten landings
for me are greasers; the other two happen when I go to a fly-in or
somebody's watching--It's only because I'm uptight and I want to show
the onlookers that I can grease it on. Figure out what works for you.
When I'm on short final I mentally tell myself ok, don't flare too hard,
keep flying the airplane, and RELAX.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 128 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
I am not sure but on my fuselage in the aft section
there is some oil canning present there and will add a
stiffener to prevent this from occuring during flight.
I talked with George Orndorff the other day about the
stall vanes on his 6 he just installed them not to
long ago and he is extremely pleased with them. He
told me that the guy who makes them is having problems
getting the performance he wants on the 8 and the
reason appears to be at high angles of attack the
landing gear is blanketing the tail section, he told
me they are exploring the possibility of adding a
strake at the aft mid fuselage to keep the airflow
attached to the tail at high angles of attack and this
will allow the stall speeds to come down. I am
wondering out loud here, if the airflow seperates
would this cause the banging and possibly the stalling
of the tail? For what it's worth.
Glenn Williams
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Hello listers,
Close to closing my right wing (rv8). The manual says to install the vent
with proseal and pop rivets. Would it be better to countersink the skin
(.032) and use flush rivets? Also, should I install a screen of some type,
just below the skin or the inlet or outlet of the hose? Size of screen? and
last but not least, it sounds like the RV series is hot, should I plan a
vent in the left wing also for extra air? Thanks!
Jack
DSM
RV8, wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
Does the tail shake happen with both the 8 and 8A or just the 8?
Matthew
-8A fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Doug Bell no Virus now |
A friend of mine got one that was really nasty this past week. Funny thing
is, his Macafee didn't catch it either and he claims he NEVER opens
attachments. He said it gets in by just READING the email it comes in. I
find that hard to believe from the old school definition of a virus...but
hey, I could be wrong. I know I keep my Norton updated every week. It's a
dangerous world out there in Net land.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Bell" <dbell(at)manisteenational.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 11:27 AM
Subject: RV-List: Doug Bell no Virus now
>
> Guys,
> My machine is now clean of the virus, I apologize to you all and thanks
for
> all the responses to the virus that I recieved....I got more reply's to
the
> note I didn't even send(i guess that what this thing did) than messages I
> actually post. Well, the tech just left my office and says the virus was
a
> nasty little thing and is new and level 4, which is bad. Nothing a $60.00
> service call won't handle!
> Anyway, My machine is now clean and good to go,....now back to the
> rv8...shooting for early June to spin the prop under its own power....
> Doug Bell
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Trim switch mounts how? |
In a message dated 5/9/01 1:51:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
kempthornes(at)home.com writes:
<<
I mounted my stock from Van's trim switch so that pushing the top of the
rocker makes the nose go down. Uh, I'm thinking later, shouldn't the up
part make the nose go up or????
Feels best how I have it. Am I just weird?
Hal Kempthorne >>
I am with you Hal. I wired my first home built that way....still have it and
like it... and have done the same with the 6A. I relate it to the control
stick... pushing the stick forward (top of rocker switch) or pulling stick
backward (bottom of rocker).
Dale Ensing
6A finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
Hi all...
I just posted REV 2 of my wiring diagram...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Dysinger" <larrykdysinger(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: NACA vent???? |
Jack,
I dimpled the skin and used flush pop rivets. Also used Blue RTV.
I will insert a screen to keep the nasty bugs out.
Larry
RV-8QB 81251
From: "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RV8-List: NACA vent????
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 13:49:01 -0500
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Jack Textor"
Hello listers,
Close to closing my right wing (rv8). The manual says to install the vent
with proseal and pop rivets. Would it be better to countersink the skin
(.032) and use flush rivets? Also, should I install a screen of some type,
just below the skin or the inlet or outlet of the hose? Size of screen? and
last but not least, it sounds like the RV series is hot, should I plan a
vent in the left wing also for extra air? Thanks!
Jack
DSM
RV8, wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Key Switch Failures |
The back comes off and the switch contacts can be cleaned so you can use it
another 10 to 20 years.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 9:03 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Key Switch Failures
> I would like to hear from anyone who has had one of these switches fail. I
> met one guy recently and his start function cratered on his. How many of
you
> have had one quit?
I'm in agreement with others that advocate KISS. Also, while redundancy is
a good thing it can be taken too far. I think a starter failure is far more
likely than a switch failure, but I wouldn't want to carry around a spare
one of those. As someone else mentioned, it would be a simple matter to pop
the key switch out and "jump" it if necessary. Since it isn't a safety of
flight issue, and is highly unlikely, I wouldn't add the extra weight and
failure points.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)micron.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: NACA vent???? |
My understanding of the reason for using Pro-seal is that it's paintable
once dry. True or false?
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Dysinger" <larrykdysinger(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 4:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: NACA vent????
>
> Jack,
>
> I dimpled the skin and used flush pop rivets. Also used Blue RTV.
>
> I will insert a screen to keep the nasty bugs out.
>
> Larry
> RV-8QB 81251
>
>
> From: "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com>
> To: "RV-8-List (E-mail)"
> Subject: RV8-List: NACA vent????
> Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 13:49:01 -0500
>
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Jack Textor"
>
> Hello listers,
> Close to closing my right wing (rv8). The manual says to install the vent
> with proseal and pop rivets. Would it be better to countersink the skin
> (.032) and use flush rivets? Also, should I install a screen of some
type,
> just below the skin or the inlet or outlet of the hose? Size of screen?
and
> last but not least, it sounds like the RV series is hot, should I plan a
> vent in the left wing also for extra air? Thanks!
> Jack
> DSM
> RV8, wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> |
Our internet server is down (power supply went kaput) so I can't look at
what you posted. I'm leaving work now , I will send fax this evening.
L
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill VonDane [mailto:bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 1:34 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Wiring Diagram
Hi all...
I just posted REV 2 of my wiring diagram...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Key Switch Failures |
The contacts are also triangular and can be rotated if I remember the last
one I did. Actually, we have only done ONE in 30 years at the Emergency
Aircraft Repair.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 3:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Key Switch Failures
The back comes off and the switch contacts can be cleaned so you can use it
another 10 to 20 years.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 9:03 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Key Switch Failures
> I would like to hear from anyone who has had one of these switches fail. I
> met one guy recently and his start function cratered on his. How many of
you
> have had one quit?
I'm in agreement with others that advocate KISS. Also, while redundancy is
a good thing it can be taken too far. I think a starter failure is far more
likely than a switch failure, but I wouldn't want to carry around a spare
one of those. As someone else mentioned, it would be a simple matter to pop
the key switch out and "jump" it if necessary. Since it isn't a safety of
flight issue, and is highly unlikely, I wouldn't add the extra weight and
failure points.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)micron.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Tonnesen <robt(at)remote.pi-securities.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Doug Bell no Virus now |
Hi,
If you're using any version of Microsoft Windows and you want to make your
computer a lot more immune to virus attacks, here's what you do (besides
installing a virus scanner, which you should do anyway):
Click Start, Find, Files or Folders.
In the "Named:" box, type "wscript.exe" without the quotes.
Click Find Now.
If the file is not found, then don't worry. That means you're already a
lot more immune. You don't need to do anything else.
If the file is found, rename it or delete it. You can rename it by
clicking on the filename and pressing the F2 key. Then just type in a
different name, like "verybad.exe".
The wscript.exe file is the Windows Scripting Host, which runs VBS files,
otherwise known as Visual Basic Scripts, and a few other file types that
are basically the same thing. Microsoft thought it would be very
convenient for people to be able to write scripts that could do all sorts
of things. The problem is that they didn't consider that scripts could be
written to do very bad things. 99.9% of all Windows users have absolutely
no need for these scripts and removing this capability from your computer
stops a large percentage of current virus attacks dead in their tracks.
If Windows can't find wscript.exe on your system, then instead of a virus
running on your computer, you'll get an error message saying Windows can't
find the application needed to open a VBS file. That's a good thing.
Ideally, you should have a virus scanner running too, but removing support
for what seems to be the most common type of virus these days definitely
helps too. You should still avoid opening attachments when you don't know
who sent them or what they are. Also, if you have a virus scanner, make
sure it is up to date. Most virus scanners have updates almost daily that
are available for download from the Internet.
Last time I posted a message here it was also something about viruses, but
I added a quick note at the end of the message saying I was trying to make
up my mind between building an RV-6 or an RV-8. I lot of people sent me
replies telling me the pros and cons of both and I learned a lot from
those replies. Well, I've pretty much decided on the -7. It seems to
have the best of both. I'm not considering my decision final until I get
a chance to go down to Aurora and visit the fine folks at Vans though.
I'm looking forward to the day I can post something to this list that is
more RV related instead of virus related, but I hope this helps someone in
the meantime.
Later...
Rob Tonnesen
On Wed, 9 May 2001, Bill Shook wrote:
>
> A friend of mine got one that was really nasty this past week. Funny thing
> is, his Macafee didn't catch it either and he claims he NEVER opens
> attachments. He said it gets in by just READING the email it comes in. I
> find that hard to believe from the old school definition of a virus...but
> hey, I could be wrong. I know I keep my Norton updated every week. It's a
> dangerous world out there in Net land.
>
> Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
Don,
I did make it available for downloads it and posted a link here yesterday.
In any case, here it is: www.avsim.com/hangar/fly/hangar/RVtiptanks.zip
Please let me know if you have problems downloading it.
Regards,
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Don Parsons
Sent: May 9, 2001 11:03 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Tip Tanks
I would be interested. Thanks for offering. Is it something that can be
posted. If so, I know of some space where it can be posted for anyone to
download.
Don Parsons
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Are Barstad
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2001 9:03 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Tip Tanks
I have the complete installation instructions for Jon's tip tanks here. I'll
send it over to you as a Word attachment off the list. If anyone else is
ionterested, please write me and I will promptly send you a copy.
Are
RV-8 WIngs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
john.bright(at)bigfoot.com
Sent: May 9, 2001 10:04 AM
Subject: RV-List: Tip Tanks
Does anyone know what modifications I might do to my wings while I'm
building them to make the Jon Johanson tanks easier to install in the
future?
Anybody know a web address for Jon Johanson?
http://www.jonjohanson.on.net/ did not work for me.
John Bright
RV6A wings
Newport News, VA
john.bright(at)bigfoot.com
757-886-1161
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Last - End Wing Rib |
In a message dated 5/8/01 5:59:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
crabaut(at)coalinga.com writes:
> ),
>
> I'm looking for the last - end wing rib (left side & right side). I was
> told the guys that buy the RV-4 to build Harmon Rockets or Rockets don't use
> them because they have shorter wings. Anyone know a Rocket builder that has
> a left over rib(s) let me know; I'm trying to fabricate up a new style of
> sheared wing tips. Thanks,
>
> Chuck
>
>
>
Chuck, The rocket builders use all of the ribs, they just put
them on closer together.
Fred LaForge RV-4 180 CS EAA tech counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: NACA vent???? |
> My understanding of the reason for using Pro-seal is that it's paintable
> once dry. True or false?
True.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <tomvelvick(at)home.com> |
While doing t & g's today for my second flight in the rv-4, it was really
hard to get used to being at pattern altitude when turning on the upwind
leg. I might be at pattern altitude when I passed the numbers on the
downwind leg in my American Aviation aa1-a.(correct, Jim?) if I was
lucky. Flew over to Falcon Field in Mesa, AZ and watched a flight of
B-25s depart in formation for the west coast. Awesome.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
Peoria, AZ
N9233A rv-4
N188KJ rv-6a wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <tomvelvick(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Cool Air Ventilator location rv-4 |
Has anyone installed Vans CA LV-3 Cabin sidewall ventilator on their
rv-4? If so, what location did you use for it and how good did it work?
Regards,
Tom Velvick
Peoria, AZ
N9233A rv-4
N188KJ rv-6a wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
Found an interesting device new to the
market. mypilotstore.com has a form
of tcas reasonably priced. It sees other
aircraft xponders and tells you how close
they are to you. Check it out!
Stewart RV4 273SB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
I don't have a flying RV-8 (yet!) so I can't comment from long time
experience, BUT... I have flown as a passenger in 2 different RV-8's - both
with IO-360's and C/S prop's. I have been monitoring the speeds from the
backseat and been through a range from 60mph to over 200mph and have never
felt any type of shaking or noises myself but have felt slight tail-wagging
on approach as we lower flaps and get down below 100mph. This is very
insignificant though and just feels 'different' from the Cessna's I've
flown. I have also been in the backseat of an RV-4 and I had the exact same
feeling (slight tail-wagging). Please keep in mind that I never landed any
of these planes but certainly did fly them otherwise.
One of the RV-8 builders built 4 RV's and the other built 3 RV's. I was
informed by one of them that the tail could start shaking if the trailing
edges weren't completely flat. If there is a slight 'bow' on the skin
towards the trailing edge (which Van's warns against!), then I think it's
possible to get 'rudder snatch'. Rudder (or aileron) snatch occurs as air
passes over this 'bow' thus creating high pressure and pulls the rudder in
one direction. It will then reverse as the pressure from the other side
pulls the rudder back and finally make it resonate. Why it would only happen
at one speed range is beyond me.
NOTE: The above may be completely wrong (I'm not experienced with this) and
may also only occur at higher speeds.
FWIW,
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
Sent: May 9, 2001 1:57 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 tail shake
> Has anyone flying an RV8 noticed the violent tail shake yet? I cant
> believe no one has mentioned this. For those who dont no what I am
> talking about , It seems that the 8 has this funny little problem of
> shaking its tail at about 75mph. The guess is that the new landing gear
> location is causing flow seperation at high angles of attack. It is hard
> enough to cause the tail to physically move . It also makes a hell of a
> racket. Is it just me?Terry B.
Yes, absolutely! I first noticed while in the back seat of an RV-8 doing my
transition training. It is part of the stall. The wings buffet very lightly
and then the entire empennage shakes noticeably -- makes you wish it was
attached with AN4 bolts instead of AN3! My plane does the same thing but
doesn't seem as bad as the plane I took my dual in. It may be just my
perception from the back seat though.
My no-power no-flaps stall speed is 71 mph and I get the shake concurrent
with that.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, 6.3 hrs.
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Trim switch mounts how? |
Makes sense to me!
Weird also,
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of kempthornes
> Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 1:54 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Trim switch mounts how?
>
>
>
> I mounted my stock from Van's trim switch so that pushing the top of the
> rocker makes the nose go down. Uh, I'm thinking later, shouldn't the up
> part make the nose go up or????
>
> Feels best how I have it. Am I just weird?
>
> Hal Kempthorne
> RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: NACA vent???? |
Mine is on with proseal only. Other have assured me it's never coming off.
I'll put a screen over the round end when I install the hose.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jack Textor
> Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 2:49 PM
> To: RV-8-List (E-mail)
> Subject: RV8-List: NACA vent????
>
>
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Jack Textor"
>
> Hello listers,
> Close to closing my right wing (rv8). The manual says to install the vent
> with proseal and pop rivets. Would it be better to countersink the skin
> (.032) and use flush rivets? Also, should I install a screen of
> some type,
> just below the skin or the inlet or outlet of the hose? Size of
> screen? and
> last but not least, it sounds like the RV series is hot, should I plan a
> vent in the left wing also for extra air? Thanks!
> Jack
> DSM
> RV8, wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
OK, enough with the trailing edge radius. That is not it. We took this
problem to an aerodynamicist. It is absolutely the wing. This problem
is only on the 8. The other RV tail draggers do not have the problem
because the gear is farther foward. Most people dont no it is there
because it is less pronounced when the flaps are down and there is some
power applied. The fix for it is a body strake that was designed by the
same man that does the VG's that Vetterman sells. This completely gets
rid of all the shaking and reduces the actual stall by a couple of
knots. This is the second RV8 I have finished and both plane were
exactly the same. I have had 4 other expert RV pilots fly the plane and
it scared all of them. The plane is now great and spins just fine.I just
dont understand why Van always leave these problems for the builders to
figure out.Terry B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Doug Bell no Virus now |
Bill Shook wrote:
>
>
> A friend of mine got one that was really nasty this past week. Funny thing
> is, his Macafee didn't catch it either and he claims he NEVER opens
> attachments. He said it gets in by just READING the email it comes in. I
> find that hard to believe from the old school definition of a virus...but
> hey, I could be wrong. I know I keep my Norton updated every week. It's a
> dangerous world out there in Net land.
>
> Bill
>
>
Bet you are using Outlook as a mail reader. MS wrote it to
allow 'macros' which (I've been told) are imbedded text
files which work at the command line level in Windows. Get
another email reader & then you won't be vulnerable when you
simply open an email. Hope this helps...
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | radio and transponder |
I am getting ready to buy a radio and transponder. I am leaning
toward the ICS Plus radio that wag-aero sells and a Garmin GTX 320
transponder. If any body is using either of these I would like to know
the pros and cons about both and if you are satisfied with them. I am
in the painting stage of an RV6 . This month makes 10 yrs in the
project. Thanks in advance. Hal N333MH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv8 tail shake |
Terry Burch wrote:
>
>
> OK, enough with the trailing edge radius. That is not it. We took this
> problem to an aerodynamicist. It is absolutely the wing. This problem
> is only on the 8. The other RV tail draggers do not have the problem
> because the gear is farther foward. Most people dont no it is there
> because it is less pronounced when the flaps are down and there is some
> power applied. The fix for it is a body strake that was designed by the
> same man that does the VG's that Vetterman sells. This completely gets
> rid of all the shaking and reduces the actual stall by a couple of
> knots. This is the second RV8 I have finished and both plane were
> exactly the same. I have had 4 other expert RV pilots fly the plane and
> it scared all of them. The plane is now great and spins just fine.I just
> dont understand why Van always leave these problems for the builders to
> figure out.Terry B.
>
>
Terry did you ask him? And what did he say?
BTW what makes and "expert RV pilot"?
Jerry
do not archinve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv8 tail shake |
Terry
Are you saying the wing is at fault or that the relation of the gear to the
wing is at fault? What exactly did your aerodynamicist say?
Tom
Terry Burch wrote:
>
> OK, enough with the trailing edge radius. That is not it. We took this
> problem to an aerodynamicist. It is absolutely the wing. This problem
> is only on the 8. The other RV tail draggers do not have the problem
> because the gear is farther foward. Most people dont no it is there
> because it is less pronounced when the flaps are down and there is some
> power applied. The fix for it is a body strake that was designed by the
> same man that does the VG's that Vetterman sells. This completely gets
> rid of all the shaking and reduces the actual stall by a couple of
> knots. This is the second RV8 I have finished and both plane were
> exactly the same. I have had 4 other expert RV pilots fly the plane and
> it scared all of them. The plane is now great and spins just fine.I just
> dont understand why Van always leave these problems for the builders to
> figure out.Terry B.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PlaneWizz(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: The first 6 hours |
Randy:
Thanks for taking the time to write the informative report on the flight
May 02, 2001 - May 09, 2001
RV-Archive.digest.vol-kr