RV-Archive.digest.vol-ks
May 09, 2001 - May 18, 2001
testing of your new baby. The pictures are great too! Sounds like you've
put a lot of thought into diagnosing some problems and I'm sure with a little
more time and persistence, you will find the proper fixes.
Good luck with the upcoming flight testing.
Dave Pohl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
For what it is worth, after we added the strakes, I did a whole stall
series. This included all kinds of power on accelerated stalls. What
was really amazing was that ,in a banked stall, the aircrft righted it
self to wings level flight. We did spins up to 3 turns. Recovery from
the spin was near instant. The stall itself was much milder than any RV
I have flown.(I competed in IAC Sportsman competition with my 6).The
wing dropped appeared to be less and the plane was flying sooner. The
indicated stall was a couple of knots slower. Terry B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Do you have pictures of your strake installation?
Larry Bowen
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Terry Burch
> Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 8:50 PM
> To: Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com
> Subject: RV-List: RV8 tail shake
>
>
>
> For what it is worth, after we added the strakes, I did a whole stall
> series. This included all kinds of power on accelerated stalls. What
> was really amazing was that ,in a banked stall, the aircrft righted it
> self to wings level flight. We did spins up to 3 turns. Recovery from
> the spin was near instant. The stall itself was much milder than any RV
> I have flown.(I competed in IAC Sportsman competition with my 6).The
> wing dropped appeared to be less and the plane was flying sooner. The
> indicated stall was a couple of knots slower. Terry B.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
Thanks for your input Terry.
I recall you started this thread just earlier today. It looked to me that
you didn't know anything about it except for your own experience with a tail
shake. Did you actually notice the problem, diagnose it, have an
aerodynamicist figure it out, purchase the proper parts, install them and
test fly in one day? All I accomplished today was the installation of a few
ribs in my right wing :)
What did the aerodynamicist say was wrong with the wing and how the location
of the gear legs will make the tail shake? I'm sure he knows what he's
talking about but it doesn't make a lot of sense to me (I'm not very good
with advanced aerodynamics).
In any case, I would suggest that the aerodynamicist submit his calculations
(or thoughts) to Van's for review. I'd be interested to hear wjat the
response is since I'm sure Van's must have stalled the RV-8 power on/no
flaps hundreds of times - even with potential customers.
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Terry Burch
Sent: May 9, 2001 6:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: Rv8 tail shake
OK, enough with the trailing edge radius. That is not it. We took this
problem to an aerodynamicist. It is absolutely the wing. This problem
is only on the 8. The other RV tail draggers do not have the problem
because the gear is farther foward. Most people dont no it is there
because it is less pronounced when the flaps are down and there is some
power applied. The fix for it is a body strake that was designed by the
same man that does the VG's that Vetterman sells. This completely gets
rid of all the shaking and reduces the actual stall by a couple of
knots. This is the second RV8 I have finished and both plane were
exactly the same. I have had 4 other expert RV pilots fly the plane and
it scared all of them. The plane is now great and spins just fine.I just
dont understand why Van always leave these problems for the builders to
figure out.Terry B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 tail shake |
For those who may not know it there is an RV-8 that was built here in WA
state that had strakes installed on both sides of the fuselage just forward
of the wing leading edge, which seemed to minimize the buffeting. Terry has
flown it so maybe he can expand on his experience. That 8 has since been
sold and I think in somewhere in Texas.
Terry, are you going to do the same on the 8 you've been testing? I was
hoping you were so I can copy it.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 wiring and firewall forward stuff
Seattle area
----- Original Message -----
From: Terry Burch <rv6man(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2001 6:17 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV8 tail shake
>
> Has anyone flying an RV8 noticed the violent tail shake yet?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 66 Msgs - 05/09/01 |
'RV-List Digest Server' wrote:- *
- RV-List Digest Archive
- ---
- Total Messages Posted Wed 05/09/01: 66
-
-
-
_______
- From: "W. Granville Batte" <wgranville.bat ...'> Take a look to the
attachment.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wes" <whays(at)camalott.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim switch mounts how? |
> Feels best how I have it. Am I just weird?
Hal,
Not to me, that is how I wired mine.
Wes Hays
Winters, TX
N844WB Flying
0-360 w/Hartzell c/s
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Yohannes Kayir" <yohannkayir(at)hotmail.com> |
In my RV-4 I decided to go with a single CHT and EGT probe. What is the
preferred cylinder number respectively when it comes to using one of each?
Replies from other models are welcome, but I would think that due to the
differences in cowling the RV-4 may or may not have the same cylinders used
as the other RV's.
Additionally, for the Manifold Pressure pickup point Vans recommends the
lower port on #3 cylinder. Is there a particular reason for this? Would
the upper port be acceptable or what about using the upper/lower ports on #4
cylinder for MAP pickup?
Thanks in advance
Yohann
Pensacola, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Blum <bob(at)theblums.net> |
| Subject: | Rose Electronic Ignition Infor wanted |
Can I get some feedback on anyone using the Rose Electronic ignition in an
o-320 a2hd.
Thanks Bob Blum
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Blum <bob(at)theblums.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rose Electronic Ignition Infor wanted |
My plane is a 6A, and the engine is an O320 a2hd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
"'rv-list(at)matronics.com '"
| Subject: | Doug Bell no Virus now |
Doug's virus was in the form of a visual basic script. It's not necessary
to even open the email to catch the virus IF you have autopreview enabled on
MS Outlook. The best thing is to disable auto-preview, and never open any
attachments that have a .vbs or a .exe extension. What makes it more
insidious is that you have to be careful going to web pages that a friend
might forward to you, it could be that your friend got infected by another
friend, and the virus sent you the web page where it can be downloaded.
These little freaks are definately keeping the antivirus guys busy.
-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie and Tupper England
Sent: 5/9/01 6:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Doug Bell no Virus now
Bill Shook wrote:
>
>
> A friend of mine got one that was really nasty this past week. Funny
thing
> is, his Macafee didn't catch it either and he claims he NEVER opens
> attachments. He said it gets in by just READING the email it comes
in. I
> find that hard to believe from the old school definition of a
virus...but
> hey, I could be wrong. I know I keep my Norton updated every week.
It's a
> dangerous world out there in Net land.
>
> Bill
>
>
Bet you are using Outlook as a mail reader. MS wrote it to
allow 'macros' which (I've been told) are imbedded text
files which work at the command line level in Windows. Get
another email reader & then you won't be vulnerable when you
simply open an email. Hope this helps...
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 05/09/01 |
'RV8-List Digest Server' wrote:- *
- RV8-List Digest Archive
- ---
- Total Messages Posted Wed 05/09/01: 3
-
-
-
_______
- From: "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com ...'> Take a look to the attachment.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 66 Msgs - 05/09/01 |
'RV-List Digest Server' wrote:- *
- RV-List Digest Archive
- ---
- Total Messages Posted Wed 05/09/01: 66
-
-
-
_______
- From: "W. Granville Batte" <wgranville.bat ...'> Take a look to the
attachment.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: NACA vent???? |
Bill,
Pro-seal is paintable, I see it painted all the time on larger aircraft, but
it is a place where I also note that the paint has a tendency to crack, not
on the pro-seal so much as on the junction between it and the aluminum.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hours TT
O-320, Hartzell C/S
RV-6, Fuselage
O-360, Hartzell C/S
"Bill Shook"
>
> My understanding of the reason for using Pro-seal is that it's paintable
> once dry. True or false?
>
> Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Doug Bell no Virus now |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Doug Bell no Virus now
Thread-Index: AcDY+ckzOJJdaMb9Qx2bKOv2bMLAiwAbKoiw
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Internet Explorer version 4.0 and later install Windows Scripting Host
(wscript.exe), which allows script execution of files with a .vbs or .js
or .scr. If you see a file attachment with those extensions, don't open
them. Also, it helps to have file extensions turned on so you can see
the extensions to the filenames. You could rename the wscript.exe file
that is located in your windows/system32 directory as a workaround, but
if you're on a corporate LAN this may piss some of the administrators
off since some companies used scripts to map network drives when you log
on.
People, just don't open attachments unless it is something you're
expecting or if you can positively it is benign.
>Bet you are using Outlook as a mail reader. MS wrote it to
>allow 'macros' which (I've been told) are imbedded text
>files which work at the command line level in Windows. Get
>another email reader & then you won't be vulnerable when you
>simply open an email. Hope this helps...
>Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 CHT & EGT |
Yohann,
For the CHT & EGT you might consider the #3 cylinder due to it's
placement and the fact that historically that is the hottest cylinder.
However I prefer having a probe on each. I have individual probes and a
select switch for my gauge. Periodically I will check on the other
cylinders, but I leave my select switch on #3 and that gives me a good idea
of what the other cylinders are proportionately.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Canopy Installation |
Bruno wrote:
>I would like to
> know if anyone has used countersinks screws instead of blind rivets to
hold
> the canopy attach to the tubing.
From my reading, my conversations with very experienced pros, and my own
experience installing plexi I conclude that rivets through plexi are a big
no-no. In fact, drilling little holes in plexi, especially near the edge is
also shakey.
The best way to mount it is in a frame, with some uhkumpucky (dum-dum), so
that the glass can float, expand, contract without pressure points. No
rivets, screws, bolts etc restraining the acrylic plastic. Since we don't
have that in the RV designs, the best we can do is use screws, gently
snugged then backed off. The holes for the screws need to be oversized so
the plexi can move around.
If you have a screw of diameter 0.164 (#6?) in a hole 0.25 with a washer on
the outside and the frame on the inside then the plexi is clamped. The
screw should not be so tight as to prevent movement of the glass.
My RV6a has screws into the roll bar. The outside 'washer' in mine is an
aluminum strip that goes across the windshield. Usually this is done with
fiberglass. On mine this part is not a compound curve part but a 'C' shaped
piece of aluminum. The plexi windshield is clamped at the front by another
aluminum strip. The sliding part has screws through the fore and aft center
tube and the back bow. They go clear thru the tubes. The front bow is
riveted per Van's design. I wish, knowing what I know now, that I had used
screws here too. Threading these thin tubes might have worked.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Navratil <czechsix(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Rv8 / (-8A?) tail shake |
Terry,
Is the tail shake on the -8 really a problem that needs to be fixed? I
suppose if you frequently fly the aircraft just above stall speeds (or if
you are doing spins and such) it could be considered undesirable, but I
always thought Van was a genius for designing this "FEATURE" into the -8.
The first RV I ever flew in was a -6A, and I did a number of stalls (power
on, off, flaps, no flaps, etc). One of the things that concerned me was
that there is almost no 'seat of the pants' warning of impending stall. I'm
not saying that there's anything wrong with the stall characteristics, and
I'm sure after flying any RV for a while I would pick up on more subtle cues
(stick 'softening' etc). But personally I liked the vibration on the -8
that I rode in a couple years ago, it didn't seem violent or scary to me, it
was just a nice, natural stall-warning system as far as I was concerned.
Why fix it?
I while back I asked the list if anyone with an -8A was experiencing the
same thing, and can't recall getting a good answer. Anybody out there (Das
Fed?) with a flying -8A who can answer this? If the -8A exhibits the same
characteristics it would imply that it is in fact related to the
wing/empennage interaction (which is slightly different from the 3/4/6
series). If not, then the -8 landing gear would be the most logical
explanation. I'm not sure if I understand your aerodynamicist
though....he's saying "It is absolutely the wing" and then "The other RV
tail draggers do not have the problem
because the gear is farther foward". Is it the wing, or the gear ? Or
maybe he meant the gear/wing intersection?
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"....hoping my tail will shake
someday....
From: "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Rv8 tail shake
OK, enough with the trailing edge radius. That is not it. We took this
problem to an aerodynamicist. It is absolutely the wing. This problem
is only on the 8. The other RV tail draggers do not have the problem
because the gear is farther foward. Most people dont no it is there
because it is less pronounced when the flaps are down and there is some
power applied. The fix for it is a body strake that was designed by the
same man that does the VG's that Vetterman sells. This completely gets
rid of all the shaking and reduces the actual stall by a couple of
knots. This is the second RV8 I have finished and both plane were
exactly the same. I have had 4 other expert RV pilots fly the plane and
it scared all of them. The plane is now great and spins just fine.I just
dont understand why Van always leave these problems for the builders to
figure out.Terry B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv8 / (-8A?) tail shake |
My -8A has a noticable but gentle buffet just prior to stalling. The only
difference I noticed was that on a power-off stall there was a little more
wing break than with a power-on stall. But nothing that would scare or
bother you.
Mikie R.
>From: Mark Navratil <czechsix(at)juno.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Rv8 / (-8A?) tail shake
>Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 12:32:22 -0400 (EDT)
>
>
>Terry,
>
>Is the tail shake on the -8 really a problem that needs to be fixed? I
>suppose if you frequently fly the aircraft just above stall speeds (or if
>you are doing spins and such) it could be considered undesirable, but I
>always thought Van was a genius for designing this "FEATURE" into the -8.
>The first RV I ever flew in was a -6A, and I did a number of stalls (power
>on, off, flaps, no flaps, etc). One of the things that concerned me was
>that there is almost no 'seat of the pants' warning of impending stall.
>I'm
>not saying that there's anything wrong with the stall characteristics, and
>I'm sure after flying any RV for a while I would pick up on more subtle
>cues
>(stick 'softening' etc). But personally I liked the vibration on the -8
>that I rode in a couple years ago, it didn't seem violent or scary to me,
>it
>was just a nice, natural stall-warning system as far as I was concerned.
>Why fix it?
>
>I while back I asked the list if anyone with an -8A was experiencing the
>same thing, and can't recall getting a good answer. Anybody out there (Das
>Fed?) with a flying -8A who can answer this? If the -8A exhibits the same
>characteristics it would imply that it is in fact related to the
>wing/empennage interaction (which is slightly different from the 3/4/6
>series). If not, then the -8 landing gear would be the most logical
>explanation. I'm not sure if I understand your aerodynamicist
>though....he's saying "It is absolutely the wing" and then "The other RV
>tail draggers do not have the problem
>because the gear is farther foward". Is it the wing, or the gear ? Or
>maybe he meant the gear/wing intersection?
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"....hoping my tail will shake
>someday....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv8 / (-8A?) tail shake |
> >I while back I asked the list if anyone with an -8A was experiencing the
> >same thing, and can't recall getting a good answer. Anybody out there
(Das
> >Fed?) with a flying -8A who can answer this?
From my ride in Mike Robertson's beautiful 8A (thanks Mike!) there was
no, none, zip, tail shake or noise during stalls, power on or off. He may
have noticed something I didn't when solo.
We might need some more data points here, but there is one 8A out there
that doesn't do it...
Dave Burton
RV-6a, wings
Seattle area
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rose Electronic Ignition Infor wanted |
I have the Rose ignition on a H2AD. Is this what you meant? Contact me off
line.
John Henley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Doug Bell no Virus now |
another extent not to open is .pif
Doug's virus was in the form of a visual basic script. It's not necessary
to even open the email to catch the virus IF you have autopreview enabled on
MS Outlook. The best thing is to disable auto-preview, and never open any
attachments that have a .vbs or a .exe extension. What makes it more
insidious is that you have to be careful going to web pages that a friend
might forward to you, it could be that your friend got infected by another
friend, and the virus sent you the web page where it can be downloaded.
These little freaks are definately keeping the antivirus guys busy.
-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie and Tupper England
Sent: 5/9/01 6:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Doug Bell no Virus now
Bill Shook wrote:
>
>
> A friend of mine got one that was really nasty this past week. Funny
thing
> is, his Macafee didn't catch it either and he claims he NEVER opens
> attachments. He said it gets in by just READING the email it comes
in. I
> find that hard to believe from the old school definition of a
virus...but
> hey, I could be wrong. I know I keep my Norton updated every week.
It's a
> dangerous world out there in Net land.
>
> Bill
>
>
Bet you are using Outlook as a mail reader. MS wrote it to
allow 'macros' which (I've been told) are imbedded text
files which work at the command line level in Windows. Get
another email reader & then you won't be vulnerable when you
simply open an email. Hope this helps...
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCN44257(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rv8 / (-8A?) tail shake |
Mark and all,
Look up Jim Zannger in CID. He has a Taylorcraft and try a stall in that
airplane. It has nearly the same wing and the only warning you get at times
is the fabric on the wing will rumble as the air separates. If you ever get
to DBQ to check Lyle, s project, he can tell you how get in touch with me and
I will demonstrate the Tcraft stall for you. I flew Lyle, s 6 and his 4 and I
thought the stalls were straight forward however I have been the same Tcraft
for 32+ years and I am used to that type of stall.
Karl Rigdon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | A new virus on the RV list? |
I received a message from Terry Burch and three messages from Harvey Sigmon.
All of these is a partial quote of one of my posts to the RV list and have a
sentence on the bottom that says exactly: ">Take a look to the attachment.
"
All of these messages contain attachments. They are .pif files. Terry's is
called images.pif and Harvey's are called... well..err.. 'Me_nudeA.pif' I
haven't opened the attachments of course.
Anyone else?
Are
RV-8 Wings
========================================
'Are Barstad' wrote:
===
-
- Thanks for your input Terry.
-
- I recall you started this thread just earlier today. It looked to me that
- you didn't know anything about it except for your own experience with a
tail ...'
> Take a look to the attachment.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Brake caliper orientation question |
I have seen pictures of RV's with the brake calipers located on the back side
(pointing rearward), top side (pointing upward, as Van's recommends) and
front side (pointing forward) of the wheel. Is there a reason for these
differences? I am getting ready to mount them and wanted to do what 'is
best.' Thanks for any advice you can provide.
-Mike
RV-4 Fuse....but doing some finish kit stuff....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: A new virus on the RV list? |
I received some from Harvey as well....attachment was called something
different. I alerted him that he was sending attachments and that likely
means a virus. Funny thing is, my Norton let them all through..... :-(
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca>
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2001 6:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: A new virus on the RV list?
>
> I received a message from Terry Burch and three messages from Harvey
Sigmon.
> All of these is a partial quote of one of my posts to the RV list and have
a
> sentence on the bottom that says exactly: ">Take a look to the
attachment.
> "
>
> All of these messages contain attachments. They are .pif files. Terry's is
> called images.pif and Harvey's are called... well..err.. 'Me_nudeA.pif' I
> haven't opened the attachments of course.
>
> Anyone else?
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
>
> ========================================
>
> 'Are Barstad' wrote:
> ===
> -
> - Thanks for your input Terry.
> -
> - I recall you started this thread just earlier today. It looked to me
that
> - you didn't know anything about it except for your own experience with a
> tail ...'
>
>
> > Take a look to the attachment.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: A new virus on the RV list? |
THERE'S A FUNGUS AMONG US.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Parsons" <DAP(at)DParsons.com> |
| Subject: | A new virus on the RV list? |
More than likely the virus you received is not in the version of the virus
database you have installed. Most of the current virus scanning software can
download updates from over the Internet. Since there are new viruses that
come out each week, it is important to update your virus scanner frequently.
Since you are using a Norton product, see if you have something called
"LiveUpdate". If you find it, while connected to the Internet, try to use
it. If you don't have it, you may have an older version of Norton.
Don Parsons
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Shook
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2001 6:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: A new virus on the RV list?
I received some from Harvey as well....attachment was called something
different. I alerted him that he was sending attachments and that likely
means a virus. Funny thing is, my Norton let them all through..... :-(
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | A new virus on the RV list? |
Hi Guys,
I've been getting them too... but they have no attachment when the come
through the RV-list so I suppose I have nothing to worry about. I don't
think I catching any virus just because I read the email (I open them in
"Outlook Express").
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Shook <billshook(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2001 6:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: A new virus on the RV list?
>
> I received some from Harvey as well....attachment was called something
> different. I alerted him that he was sending attachments and that likely
> means a virus. Funny thing is, my Norton let them all through.....
:-(
>
> Bill
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2001 6:21 PM
> Subject: RV-List: A new virus on the RV list?
>
>
> >
> > I received a message from Terry Burch and three messages from Harvey
> Sigmon.
> > All of these is a partial quote of one of my posts to the RV list and
have
> a
> > sentence on the bottom that says exactly: ">Take a look to the
> attachment.
> > "
> >
> > All of these messages contain attachments. They are .pif files. Terry's
is
> > called images.pif and Harvey's are called... well..err.. 'Me_nudeA.pif'
I
> > haven't opened the attachments of course.
> >
> > Anyone else?
> >
> > Are
> > RV-8 Wings
> >
> > ========================================
> >
> > 'Are Barstad' wrote:
> > ===
> > -
> > - Thanks for your input Terry.
> > -
> > - I recall you started this thread just earlier today. It looked to me
> that
> > - you didn't know anything about it except for your own experience with
a
> > tail ...'
> >
> >
> > > Take a look to the attachment.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: A new virus on the RV list? |
Here is the low down on the virus amongst us:
http://www.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/w32.badtrans.13312@mm.html
The page also give directions for purging the little worm.
Sam Buchanan
======================
Are Barstad wrote:
>
>
> I received a message from Terry Burch and three messages from Harvey Sigmon.
> All of these is a partial quote of one of my posts to the RV list and have a
> sentence on the bottom that says exactly: ">Take a look to the attachment.
> "
>
> All of these messages contain attachments. They are .pif files. Terry's is
> called images.pif and Harvey's are called... well..err.. 'Me_nudeA.pif' I
> haven't opened the attachments of course.
>
> Anyone else?
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
>
> ========================================
>
> 'Are Barstad' wrote:
> ===
> -
> - Thanks for your input Terry.
> -
> - I recall you started this thread just earlier today. It looked to me that
> - you didn't know anything about it except for your own experience with a
> tail ...'
>
> > Take a look to the attachment.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I sent a test phrase to the RV list, and what is happening is whatever e-mail
I send out, comes back to me with a note saying to look at the attachment, of
which I can't open. Have I caught the virus?
Scott
Tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PlaneWizz(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: A new virus on the RV list? |
Yes, exactly.
DRP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: NACA vent???? |
Jack:
The reason for using pop rivets is the very difficult access to this point.
If you can get to it to buck it, there's no reason not to use flush rivets
(but you won't gain much other than a certain smugness).
I don't think that you need a screen (Just my opinion).
I also don't think a second vent would help much, and will give you major
space and layout problems in the rear cockpit.
George
N888GK
Finishing cooling baffles
>From: "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV-8-List (E-mail)"
>Subject: RV8-List: NACA vent????
>Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 13:49:01 -0500
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "Jack Textor"
>
>Hello listers,
>Close to closing my right wing (rv8). The manual says to install the vent
>with proseal and pop rivets. Would it be better to countersink the skin
>(.032) and use flush rivets? Also, should I install a screen of some type,
>just below the skin or the inlet or outlet of the hose? Size of screen?
>and
>last but not least, it sounds like the RV series is hot, should I plan a
>vent in the left wing also for extra air? Thanks!
>Jack
>DSM
>RV8, wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruno" <fo320(at)sympatico.ca> |
Hello everyone
Well it looks like 2001 is not shaping up to be a good light
plane flying year for me.After having the canopy cracked now I believe I
found a hairline crack on my prop.
1.- The prop I have is a B.Warke so my question is:Does he
still make prop and if so is there anyone on the list who knows how I can
contact him and how much are his props?
2.- I aslo saw a three blade wood prop on an RV-4 when I looked
a the "RV'S of the week"on Van's web site,anyone knows who makes these
props?
3.- Are there any RV-4 drivers on the list who have install one
of these "Composite props" i;e "MT'S or any other kind and knows how much
they are??
You may contact me off list if you wish
Thank you
Bruno
fo320(at)sympatico.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 5/10/01 9:42:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
fo320(at)sympatico.ca writes:
<< After having the canopy cracked now I believe I
found a hairline crack on my prop.
1.- The prop I have is a B.Warke so my question is:Does he
still make prop and if so is there anyone on the list who knows how I can
contact him and how much are his props?>>
He is deceased, but my understanding is that his daughter Margie is still
making props.
<< 2.- I aslo saw a three blade wood prop on an RV-4 when I
looked
a the "RV'S of the week"on Van's web site,anyone knows who makes these
props?>>
Catto makes a good one.
<< 3.- Are there any RV-4 drivers on the list who have install one
of these "Composite props" i;e "MT'S or any other kind and knows how much
they are? >>
Contact info for all of these sources and more is at
<http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm>
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Fit Question |
I seem to recall a note in Frank Justice's wing notes about bending the top
flange of the rear spar a little more from 90 degrees so that the skin
follows the rib contour better. If you have all ready riveted the skin on,
you might still be able to do this.
Marty in Brentwood TN
----- Original Message -----
From: <pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2001 11:41 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap Fit Question
>
>
> Hi Scott,
>
> I have recently discovered a similar situation as I installed the flaps on
> my -4. I have the same nominal 1/16" gap at the trailing edge of the top
> skin when the flaps are fully retracted. The bottom skin of the wing
> appears, however, to line up with the bottom skin of the flap. I have
> convinced myself the problem is due to a little "turn-up" of the portion
of
> the top skin that extends aft of the rear spar. For some reason, this
> portion of the skin does not seem to follow the contour established by the
> wing ribs. As soon as I get my nerve up, I will make a simple fixture
and
> attempt to bend the trailing edge skin slightly -just enough to make it
> follow the rib contour.
>
> That being said, you may have a totally different problem, but it should
be
> fairly easy to check. Good luck.
>
> Dean Pichon
> RV-4
> Arlington, MA
>
>
> |--------+---------------------------------->
> | | "Scott Pittman" |
> | | |
> | | Sent by: |
> | | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
> | | ronics.com |
> | | |
> | | |
> | | 05/08/01 09:46 AM |
> | | Please respond to |
> | | rv-list |
> | | |
> |--------+---------------------------------->
> |
|
> | To:
|
> | cc:
|
> | bcc:
|
> | Subject: RV-List: Flap Fit Question
|
>
>
> I am doing some final tweaking to my wings before storing them. I
> noticed that the top of the flaps
> do not quite fit flush with the top skins when in the retracted
> position. There is an approximately .060" gap
> at the root end that tapers to .030" at the tip end. Both flaps have
> this gap. Both the top and bottom
> skins are straight beyond the rear spar and the rear spar angles are
> oriented correctly.
>
> I realize that this is a cosmetic issue. Has anyone else encountered
> this? I am considering shimming
> the flap hinges to remove the gap.
>
> Thanks for the input.
>
> Scott Pittman
> RV-4
>
>
> **** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one of
> Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may contain
> confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee
> only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not
> the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.****
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
Larry-
See dwg 27, View E-E'... F810D is shown as a dashed line. Piece o cake,
just make a spacer out of sheet to fill the space between the main
longerons, the same goes for the one at F811 as well.
Matthew
-8A cockpit floor
I'm fabricating all the angles and spacers that go on the very aft of the
fuse. Plans 27 says the specs for the F810D spacer are on plans 27A.
Where's that? I don't seem to have it...or am I too tired to realize I
do.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gusndale(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: A new virus on the RV list? |
In a message dated 5/10/01 5:09:11 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
crabaut(at)coalinga.com writes:
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> I've been getting them too... but they have no attachment when the come
> through the RV-list so I suppose I have nothing to worry about. I don't
> think I catching any virus just because I read the email (I open them in
> "Outlook Express").
>
> Chuck
>
>
>
I got the Terry Burch one too!
Dale Wotring
Vancouver, WA
RV6A,
Lycoming 0-360A2A
Sensennich Fixed Pitch (84)
working on panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jakent(at)unison.ie |
| Subject: | Aero-conversions ACV-C05 carb. |
Has anyone out there in RV-Land used or even considered this unit? It sounds very
"promising", sort of a poor-man's substitute for fuel injection or an ellison
as it is said to operate well in all attitudes. I am considering it instead
of my MA4SPA in my RV4 (QB+ stage) and am talking to the company to try and get
some details of any testing done with Lyc O-320s. The unit is so simple and
at $350= it sounds almost too good to be true. In the field experience anyone??
________________________________________________________________________________
>If you're using Norton AntiVirus (NAV) (I'm sure a lot of you are), make
sure you've set up the email scan. It isn't always done when you install,
and has to be redone whenever you change mail servers or accounts.<
I got sent the dreaded virus too (three times), but My McAfee virus shield
caught it and deleted it before I opened anything. I subscribe to their
"virus clinic" for $29.00 a year, and it does a scheduled check-out of my
system at 5:30 every morning (while I'm getting ready for work and reading my
rv-list messages) and downloads an update whenever one is available (usually
once a week). I highly recommend this service- it's kept me clean (so far!)!
Ed Winne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "W. Granville Batte" <wgranville.batte(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Infected attachments |
Are,
Day before yesterday I received a message from Harvey Sigmon, and the same
thing happened, except the ATTACHMENT ('you_are_fat.pif') was VIRUS INFECTED
(caught by my virus checker).
W. Granville Batte
RV-8 emp
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: RV-List: A new virus on the RV list?
I received a message from Terry Burch and three messages from Harvey Sigmon.
All of these is a partial quote of one of my posts to the RV list and have a
sentence on the bottom that says exactly: ">Take a look to the attachment.
"
All of these messages contain attachments. They are .pif files. Terry's is
called images.pif and Harvey's are called... well..err.. 'Me_nudeA.pif' I
haven't opened the attachments of course.
Anyone else?
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd" <tmrv6(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Key Switch Failures |
Norman,
My Vans/ACS switch failed (on the right mag position-intermittent ground) at
about 300 hours.
Todd N92TM RV-6 Flying in Southern MD
> I have one of Van's key/mags/start switches. It seems very similar to the
> ones in all the Cessnas I have ever rented. I am finalizing my fuseblock
> panel and for some reason I have been fixating on having two toggles and a
> push button mounted on this new hidden panel to back up the factory key
> switch on the panel. The primary purpose of my aircraft is travel and I
> don't want to get stuck anywhere. I would like to wire these extra
switches
> in parallel to all the functions of the key switch.
>
> I would like to hear from anyone who has had one of these switches fail. I
> met one guy recently and his start function cratered on his. How many of
you
> have had one quit?
NetZero Platinum
No Banner Ads and Unlimited Access
Sign Up Today - Only $9.95 per month!
http://www.netzero.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Free Anti-Virus Software |
Well now that I have all of your attention from the word "Free", if you
would go to:
http://antivirus.cai.com/
you can download some free anti-virus software. I also promise not to
panhandle for any donations if you use this "Free" software. I have found
it very useful and user friendly and un-installed my Norton and McAfee
software and replaced it with this free one. If you use it and it helps
find a virus drop me a line and let me know.
Thanks, AL
(Now I'll just sit back and wait until I get an E-mail from HaHaHa with the
"Snow White" virus in it like I always do after I post to the list.)
Al Mojzisik
InAir Instruments, LLC
Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI)
AOA and SO much more!
http://www.liftreserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jacob Lauser <jrlauser(at)postoffice.pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Support and Criticism... |
I wanted to thank you all for your numerous responses to my initial
e-mails. Some folks blasted my efforts and even called me "a disgrace to
my chosen profession", while others were very supportive. Overall, the
responses were very positive! But to allay the fears of those of you who
have scrimped and saved for many years, I'm not looking for a free ride.
I realize that it will take some hard work to get the plane I want, both
in saving to buy the kit, and in building the thing. But I would like to
make a point for those nay-sayers in the crowd. How many of you could
honestly say that you would refuse the kit of your dreams if it was
handed to you free of charge? Would you say, "No thanks, I didn't earn
it and sacrifice half of my income for the last 10 years to buy it," or
would you enthusiastically shake your benefactor's hand and start
clearing space in your garage? As I said, it never hurts to ask. On that
note, I just thought I'd say that I have purchased the information pack,
reviewed it thoroughly, ordered a subscription to the RV-ator, and am
awaiting the arrival of my preview plans for the RV-8. I should be
ordering the empennage kit from Van's in mid-July. And I will be
purchasing it myself after saving up the money. I'll have to be more
creative with the other kits, but since I will have so much time to kill
between periods of saving and spending, I plan to fully detail the kits
I'm working on. Aloding, painting, etc. So, that's the story. I have the
use of tools, a place to work, and now I'll wait.
Jake Lauser
jrlauser(at)pacbell.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PlaneWizz(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Support and Criticism... |
Jake:
Nice message and good luck to you on your RV project. And remember, the
person who never gets criticized never tried or did anything of significance.
Dave Pohl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Support and Criticism... |
Jacob: good show, Just to let you know if you look at
the vans air force world list under the classifides
there are many 8, 8A builders who are going it appears
to the new 7 and there are deals to be had there on
wings and such. Keep in touch.
Glenn Williams
--- Jacob Lauser
wrote:
>
>
> I wanted to thank you all for your numerous
> responses to my initial
> e-mails. Some folks blasted my efforts and even
> called me "a disgrace to
> my chosen profession", while others were very
> supportive. Overall, the
> responses were very positive! But to allay the fears
> of those of you who
> have scrimped and saved for many years, I'm not
> looking for a free ride.
> I realize that it will take some hard work to get
> the plane I want, both
> in saving to buy the kit, and in building the thing.
> But I would like to
> make a point for those nay-sayers in the crowd. How
> many of you could
> honestly say that you would refuse the kit of your
> dreams if it was
> handed to you free of charge? Would you say, "No
> thanks, I didn't earn
> it and sacrifice half of my income for the last 10
> years to buy it," or
> would you enthusiastically shake your benefactor's
> hand and start
> clearing space in your garage? As I said, it never
> hurts to ask. On that
> note, I just thought I'd say that I have purchased
> the information pack,
> reviewed it thoroughly, ordered a subscription to
> the RV-ator, and am
> awaiting the arrival of my preview plans for the
> RV-8. I should be
> ordering the empennage kit from Van's in mid-July.
> And I will be
> purchasing it myself after saving up the money. I'll
> have to be more
> creative with the other kits, but since I will have
> so much time to kill
> between periods of saving and spending, I plan to
> fully detail the kits
> I'm working on. Aloding, painting, etc. So, that's
> the story. I have the
> use of tools, a place to work, and now I'll wait.
>
>
> Jake Lauser
> jrlauser(at)pacbell.net
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 tail shake |
> For those who may not know it there is an RV-8 that was built here in WA
> state that had strakes installed on both sides of the fuselage just
forward
> of the wing leading edge, which seemed to minimize the buffeting. Terry
has
> flown it so maybe he can expand on his experience. That 8 has since been
> sold and I think in somewhere in Texas.
>
> Terry, are you going to do the same on the 8 you've been testing? I was
> hoping you were so I can copy it.
Guys,
Let's not confuse wing buffeting with the tail shake, they are two different
things. Do the strakes help the wing buffeting (which really isn't a
problem), or the tail shake (which isn't a problem either, just unusual)?
Sounds like Terry B. and crew have done a fair amount of research and
testing here. I for one would like to hear more about it and see some pics.
Will parts eventually be avialable commercially? And do the gear legs on the
regular -8 somehow come into the equation?
Randy Lervold
RV-8 #80500, N558RL, 6.3 hrs
www.rv-8.com
ps. Mike "das fed" Robertson is now a Home Wing member... he attended his
first meeting last night - glad to have you Mike!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | phil <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Government Publications on Amatuer Aircraft |
http://av-info.faa.gov/dst/amateur/ is the URL to our tax dollar list
of free government publications on amatuer built aircraft and related
subject mater. All data is available via .pdf format. ALL-N-ALL not a
bad site and having all the government aviation publications available
under one linkable URL is nice.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Government Publications on Amatuer Aircraft |
>
>
> http://av-info.faa.gov/dst/amateur/ is the URL to our tax dollar list
> of free government publications on amatuer built aircraft and related
> subject mater. All data is available via .pdf format. ALL-N-ALL not a
> bad site and having all the government aviation publications available
> under one linkable URL is nice.
>
>
This list just never ceases to amaze me. I just spent an hour searching the
FAA website and the archives for this and came up skunked. Then I get this
just emailed to me out of the blue. Thanks Phil.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
Did you fly your -8 yet without wheel pants? I wonder if that would make a
difference. Your pictures are very nice by the way. Paintjob is superb and
very sharp!
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
Sent: May 11, 2001 2:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 tail shake
> For those who may not know it there is an RV-8 that was built here in WA
> state that had strakes installed on both sides of the fuselage just
forward
> of the wing leading edge, which seemed to minimize the buffeting. Terry
has
> flown it so maybe he can expand on his experience. That 8 has since been
> sold and I think in somewhere in Texas.
>
> Terry, are you going to do the same on the 8 you've been testing? I was
> hoping you were so I can copy it.
Guys,
Let's not confuse wing buffeting with the tail shake, they are two different
things. Do the strakes help the wing buffeting (which really isn't a
problem), or the tail shake (which isn't a problem either, just unusual)?
Sounds like Terry B. and crew have done a fair amount of research and
testing here. I for one would like to hear more about it and see some pics.
Will parts eventually be avialable commercially? And do the gear legs on the
regular -8 somehow come into the equation?
Randy Lervold
RV-8 #80500, N558RL, 6.3 hrs
www.rv-8.com
ps. Mike "das fed" Robertson is now a Home Wing member... he attended his
first meeting last night - glad to have you Mike!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lee <borgny(at)rconnect.com> |
Dear list,
After accumulating over 20,000 in military and civilian aircraft, I
still found it prudent to take some flight training. I just returned
from Vernonia, OR with 3.5 hours of the most enjoyable flying I've ever
experienced. Mike Seager is an excellent instructor; having given him
many opportunities, he never got excited. The RV is different from any
other aircraft that I've flown. I'm not saying it's difficult, just
different. Anyway, Mike is a great fellow and instructor and I highly
recommend him. Part of the training entailed landing on every airfield
along the Oregon coast. What beautiful scenery!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
I goofed tooand got the virus but with the help Symantec on the internet and
Tom "Gummibear" Gummo, we (I watched, he did) cleared and cleaned my PC. I
hope we got it all, at least it's working now. Am very sorry I caused
someone else a problem. I don't send blind attachments so if you got any
attachments with my name on it, go to Symantec and follow directions and DO
NOT attempt to open anything from me. Jack Starn, aka: KABONG.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Gusndale(at)aol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2001 8:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Virus Alert
>
> Listers,
>
> Just want to let you all know that I figured out that I shouldn't
open
> an unexpected attachment from Terry Burch (well, from his computer anyway)
________________________________________________________________________________
"
\"Jeff Jasinsky\"" ,
, ,
"Jerry VanGrunsven" ,
"Bruce Beauchamp"
| Subject: | 7.3 hrs, left roll fixed |
Listers,
For those of you following my early hours you may recall I was disturbed by
a left rolling tendency, hypothetically diagnosed soon thereafter as a left
outboard aileron mount being a bit too high. Well, I removed my left
wingtip, removed the bracket, positioned the aileron exactly where I wanted
it, measured it about ten times, looked at it about twenty times, marked the
new bracket, and drilled it. When I mounted it it was still off just a bit.
Heck with it. I went to Van's and bought two more just in case. The next one
nailed it perfectly and I remounted the wing tip. I then removed/replaced a
sticking right fuel sender and waited two days for the Proseal to cure.
We finished calibrating the right fuel gauge tonight now that the sender is
working and I went flying. I am *very* pleased to report that with dead even
fuel that sucker flies perfectly straight. Man, was I glad about that! As I
burned fuel out of the left tank it began a very slight roll to the right.
It took about a 5-6 gallon differential, which is about 1/4 tank, to really
notice it. To my mind this is perfect... a gentle little reminder to change
tanks. I was curious how much you could feel fuel imbalance, now I know.
I only flew an hour tonight due to encroaching darkness, so tomorrow it's
time to burn some fuel and put a bit of a dent in that 40 hours, and to keep
building my knowledgebase.
Blue skies,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, N558RL, 7.3 hrs and one happy camper!
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Murphy <jgmurphy(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Hinge attachment to flap. |
Listers
Dwg 17 specifies a 3/4" dimension from the hinge C/L to the spar
(presumably fwd face). On my -6 with prepunched skins and the -3 Hinge
this results in the hinge rivets having an edge distance of approx 0.17"
to the hinge aft edge, which is just under 2D. Obviously moving the
hinge slightly aft improves this, but at the expense of the 3/4"
dimension.
The problem is caused by the prepunched holes being further aft than on
the drg so that the 3/8" dimn is incompatible with the 3/4" one.
My question is; How closely have builders been following the 3/4"
dimension. Also I note that some builders dont rivet the hinge to the
flap until installation to the wing which is probably a good idea. No
doubt there are many opinions.
FWIW I am going to use universal head rivets thru the flap and brace
hinges, I dont believe they will have any measurable affect on drag so
far back on the wing, and simplifies construction.
Looking fwd to your advice.
Graham Murphy, -6A
building interupted by planting Olive trees, restarted finishing
empennage & controls surfaces. Gotta extend the wshop b4 I can start on
bigger bits.
Blenheim
New Zealand
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net> |
| Subject: | Slider Canopy / Rollbar Fit |
A couple of weeks ago I asked for information whether anyone else had
experienced difficulty with their RV6, fitting the slider canopy frame with
the windscreen roll bar. I received nearly a dozen responses on and off the
web of people with the same frustrations., and was asked to respond back
with what I found worked. I really appreciate the suggestions, running
from several who cut up and rewelded the canopy frame to those who managed
to "push and bend". Deciding that the "cut and reweld" would be my last
solution, I found that I could get an acceptable final fit after putting the
front end of the canopy frame on the floor, with the top on a 2 x 4, and
pushing down slightly from the rear, rechecking, and re-bending. Final
installation, with the slider blocks, is within the correct envelope. Jim
Cones and Frank Justice' supplemental instructions are very useful as well.
Now with the plexiglass canopy trimmed and in position, I also find that the
shape of the plexiglass is substantially different from the "recurved" shape
of the canopy frame center bar, and I know I didn't bend that 5/8" dia. bar.
The plexiglass canopy hits the bar at the front and rear, but has a
progressive gap in between up to about 1/2". A fellow RV6 builder in the
area offered his conduit bender - which was his solution to the same
problem. My guess is that I would end up with a "reshaped" frame and back
into a compromised fit with the roll bar if I used that solution. Jim
Cone's notes proposes Marine Tex epoxy to fill the gap. I can push the
plexiglass down to the bar, but with about 30-40 lbs of "thumb pressure". I
don't think that's a good solution in the end, and will go with the epoxy
gap filler. This is definitely one area that Van did not excel in his
design.
Duane Bentley
N515DB (Res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy / Rollbar Fit |
In a message dated 5/12/01 9:25:45 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
dbentley(at)fuse.net writes:
> Now with the plexiglass canopy trimmed and in position, I also find that the
> shape of the plexiglass is substantially different from the "recurved" shape
> of the canopy frame center bar, and I know I didn't bend that 5/8" dia. bar.
> The plexiglass canopy hits the bar at the front and rear, but has a
> progressive gap in between up to about 1/2". A fellow RV6 builder in the
> area offered his conduit bender - which was his solution to the same
> problem. My guess is that I would end up with a "reshaped" frame and back
> into a compromised fit with the roll bar if I used that solution. Jim
> Cone's notes proposes Marine Tex epoxy to fill the gap. I can push the
> plexiglass down to the bar, but with about 30-40 lbs of "thumb pressure". I
> don't think that's a good solution in the end, and will go with the epoxy
> gap filler. This is definitely one area that Van did not excel in his
> design.
>
> Duane Bentley
> N515DB (Res)
The gap filler is a good solution. Others (not me) have simply left out the
rivets that attach the canopy to the center bar.
Did the canopy fit the profile of the canopy frame before you bent the frame?
Too late now, but it is very important to properly fit the canopy to the
frame in the fore/aft direction before you begin cutting.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy / Rollbar Fit |
In a message dated 5/12/01 8:25:48 AM Central Daylight Time,
dbentley(at)fuse.net writes:
<< Jim
Cone's notes proposes Marine Tex epoxy to fill the gap. I can push the
plexiglass down to the bar, but with about 30-40 lbs of "thumb pressure". I
don't think that's a good solution in the end, and will go with the epoxy
gap filler. This is definitely one area that Van did not excel in his
design. >>
Duane,
I agree. I used the marine tex epoxy and it worked great. Very easy to use
and it drilled and tapped (I used screws and no rivets) well.
Good luck,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (electrical stuff)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <john.bright(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hinge attachment to flap. |
Graham:
I'll tell you what I, a first-time builder who has not mounted the flaps
yet, did.
Assume the 3/4" is to the spar web front face.
Measure spar flange height to be 19/32.
Plan to make skin edge flush with spar flange.
Put hinge on bench with skin on top and determine distance between hinge eye
OD and skin to get hinge pin center-line 5/32 from skin edge (19/32 + 5/32
3/4).
Assume skin edge is straight (cut on a straight shear). Assume spar flange
is straight in respect to a plane normal to the wing chord (bent an a
straight brake).
Locate hinge eye OD from skin edge with feeler gage and drill through
pre-punched skin hole and hinge into bench. Cleco to bench and repeat for
the rest of the holes.
On the finished assembly using my scale graduated in 1/32" it looks like the
edge distance on the hinge is exactly 3/16.
Also sighting through all the hinge eyes I can't say the hinge is not
exactly straight.
I don't understand how waiting until installation with the wing to rivet the
hinge to the flap will help. The hinge pin needs to be straight. A matched
curvature with the other half is not the goal. If the (my) assumptions about
the skin edge and spar being straight are correct, hanging the flap to the
wing when drilling the wing hinge will work. The inboard bottom wing skin
could be assumed straight but the hinge extends over the intersection with
the outboard bottom wing skin.
BTW, the fact that the flap hinge extends over the inboard and outboard wing
skins tells something of how parallel the wing skin edges need to be in
order to respect hinge straightness and rivet edge distance. So straight
wing spar is important in respect to a plane containing the wing chord.
John Bright
RV6A pre-punched, wings
Newport News, VA
john.bright(at)bigfoot.com
757-886-1161
----- Original Message -----
From: Graham Murphy <jgmurphy(at)xtra.co.nz>
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2001 7:07 AM
Subject: RV-List: Hinge attachment to flap.
>
> Listers
>
> Dwg 17 specifies a 3/4" dimension from the hinge C/L to the spar
> (presumably fwd face). On my -6 with prepunched skins and the -3 Hinge
> this results in the hinge rivets having an edge distance of approx 0.17"
> to the hinge aft edge, which is just under 2D. Obviously moving the
> hinge slightly aft improves this, but at the expense of the 3/4"
> dimension.
> The problem is caused by the prepunched holes being further aft than on
> the drg so that the 3/8" dimn is incompatible with the 3/4" one.
>
> My question is; How closely have builders been following the 3/4"
> dimension. Also I note that some builders dont rivet the hinge to the
> flap until installation to the wing which is probably a good idea. No
> doubt there are many opinions.
>
> FWIW I am going to use universal head rivets thru the flap and brace
> hinges, I dont believe they will have any measurable affect on drag so
> far back on the wing, and simplifies construction.
>
> Looking fwd to your advice.
>
> Graham Murphy, -6A
> building interupted by planting Olive trees, restarted finishing
> empennage & controls surfaces. Gotta extend the wshop b4 I can start on
> bigger bits.
> Blenheim
> New Zealand
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
Fellow Listers:
A thought for the tandem airplane folks (-4, -8)... I have just installed a
Garmin GPS III with one of the RAM mounts in the rear of my flying RV-4. I
attached it to the rear of the front seat so the GPS III is positioned
neatly just above the rear stick. I was wondering if it would receive the
satellites OK being somewhat sheltered by the rollover structure and the
canopy frame, but it works perfect. A set of rechargeable AA batteries
provides 7 hours of time. Gives the seat pax something to pass the time.
Doug Weiler
N464EM flying
N722DW under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy / Rollbar Fit |
RE: Duane Bentley's plexi not fits the slider canopy frame center bar
recurve
Suggestions:
First: Be sure the frame fits the airplane, slides right, latches, doesn't
overhang the fuse etc.
Second: Move the plexi back and forth on the frame. Mine fit the center
bow perfectly without stuffing it with bondo like stuff ala Jim Cone. Maybe
they are just all different or maybe you really do need to cut and lengthen
the center bow. I did mine without welding by using a bar inside the tube
to join the two parts and with bolts thru the bar.
But, as Van's tech support folks say, "Just make it fit!"
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
Larry (or anyone else),
It is a long time since you sent this email. However, I'm interested in
a web address, snailmail address or phone number for VanGuard insuranc.
I did not readily find it on Van's website.
Thanks in advance.
Richard Dudley
-6A almost ready to take the fuselage off the jig.
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
>
> So far, my experience with the Van's sponsered "VanGuard" has been good. I
> have my project ins. with them as well as my renters ins. There is more info
> on Van's website. I use to be with Avemco.
>
> -Larry
>
> > jerryb wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Hello All,
> > > I just got a notice that my Insurance Co. is not gonna renew
> > > Ins. on
> > > experimentals.
> > > I need some advice and companies that insure RV's. Phone
> > > numbers would
> > > also be helpful.
> > > Thanks, JerryB
> > > RV6 N40JP
>
> >From homework help to love advice, Yahoo! Experts has your answer.
> http://experts.yahoo.com/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Try this: http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/insure.htm
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse...
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Dudley
> Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2001 3:12 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Insurance
>
>
> Larry (or anyone else),
> It is a long time since you sent this email. However, I'm interested in
> a web address, snailmail address or phone number for VanGuard insuranc.
> I did not readily find it on Van's website.
> Thanks in advance.
> Richard Dudley
> -6A almost ready to take the fuselage off the jig.
>
> Larry Bowen wrote:
> >
> >
> > So far, my experience with the Van's sponsered "VanGuard" has
> been good. I
> > have my project ins. with them as well as my renters ins.
> There is more info
> > on Van's website. I use to be with Avemco.
> >
> > -Larry
> >
> > > jerryb wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Hello All,
> > > > I just got a notice that my Insurance Co. is not gonna renew
> > > > Ins. on
> > > > experimentals.
> > > > I need some advice and companies that insure RV's. Phone
> > > > numbers would
> > > > also be helpful.
> > > > Thanks, JerryB
> > > > RV6 N40JP
> >
> > >From homework help to love advice, Yahoo! Experts has your answer.
> > http://experts.yahoo.com/
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | RV6 to RV7 tail? |
I have found a good deal on an RV6 tail kit that has not been started
yet. It is about two years old and to order the parts to make it a 7
tail should cost about $350-$400 dollars. I would have to replace the
elevator skins and all the parts of the vertical stab and rudder in the
kit. I could save a few hundred dollars by doing this has anyone else
done this and does it sound like an ok thing to do or should I just
order the 7 tail?
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/
And see my Rans S12xl experimental aircraft - Hope to be building a RV7A
soon :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6 to RV7 tail? |
I just finished doing it and you save about $700. To me, that is worth it.
John Henley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net> |
| Subject: | Slider Canopy / Rollbar Fit-Epilogue |
A follow-up to my earlier note today. Thanks for the suggestions on
warming up the shop. It was in the low 70's and I brought the kerosene
heater back out of the shed to address the sudden change in weather. I
warmed the garage up til I was sweating, but no change in the
fit.....until......
I went ahead with strapping down and clamping the canopy, drilled and
clecoed at top dead center one hole, both in the roll bar and canopy forward
frame, and rechecked the gap between the plexiglass and the center canopy
frame bar, aft of the lock. The 1/2" max gap was still there and no
indication of any less force to push it down. I went ahead and cut the
windscreen from the aft section of plexiglass. I completed the drilling and
clecoing of the windscreen, and went back to look at the gap again between
the plexiglass and the top canopy bar. Several people told me that the
plexiglass becomes substantially more flexible after the cut is made, but I
didn't think it would have any great affect this location behind the lock.
I was wrong. The canopy plexiglass as dropped down onto the frame, with at
most a 1/8" gap over a small area, which can easily be pushed into place.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Duane Bentley
N515DB (Res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 tail shake |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2001 2:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 tail shake
> Guys,
> Let's not confuse wing buffeting with the tail shake, they are two
different
> things. Do the strakes help the wing buffeting (which really isn't a
> problem), or the tail shake (which isn't a problem either, just unusual)?
This not wing buffet. This is root seperation of the wing. First it
happens at 75mph.
Second , I can turn my head and watch the tail physicaly shaking on the
fuse. Not to mention the loud banging.
with thestrake installed the actual indicated stall clean is about 62 mph.
There is a little wing root
buffet just before stall. This is not my first experience with this on an 8.
The last one did the same. intersection fairings make no difference. Terry B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Gusndale(at)aol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2001 11:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Virus Alert
>
> Listers,
>
> Just want to let you all know that I figured out that I shouldn't
open
> an unexpected attachment from Terry Burch (well, from his computer anyway)
> about 30 seconds too late
Just for the record, some one off the list infected me. The virus then goes
after all people that email me.
I have gotten rid of it. Norton's web site has easy fixI had no damage. I'll
never go without
virus protection again. Terry B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin Heisler" <majh(at)islandtelecom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy / Rollbar Fit-Epilogue |
I just had my pc mess up and lost the list of builders who wanted to know
what parts i had for sale.
this will cover most of it for now , there is more.
if you are interested in any please let me know and we can arrive at a fair
price for both of us.
this is all from various purchases made in the last couple of years.
garmin gps model 150
century auto pilot model 2000 from a mooney m20j no servo's
century altitude select ( 2000 )
king kx 155 nav/comm no glideslope
king kn62a dme
annunciator - international avionics inc. # 500 d 0061-000 14 volt
graphic engine monitor gem-602-egt-cht 4 cylinder no probes
electronics international fuel flow / pressure
tachometer / mechanical new 0 hours
king ka 518 slaving switch
altimeter ( condition unknown - at least good for core exchange)
airspeed kts 40 - 260 mph 40 - 300
would like to keep this terra package as one
terra audio panel tma 340 d
2- terra comm tx760 d
terra nav tm 200 d
terra transponder trt 250 d
trinav c vor/loc/gs/elc converter indicator
headset
2- dave clark h-10-40
1-dave clark h-10-20
1-softcom c-40
itercom portable AVIALL 4 place battery power with auxiliary audio
handheld electronic checklist - currently set up for mooney m20j/201
also have for rv-6
set of plans ( like new condition)
tail kit completed except for tip fairings that are fitted but not riveted
on yet.
for the plans and tail kit - 2000. dollars , will crate and get ready for
shipment
thanks.......
-----Original Message-----
From: Duane Bentley <dbentley(at)fuse.net>
Date: Saturday, May 12, 2001 9:27 PM
Subject: RV-List: Slider Canopy / Rollbar Fit-Epilogue
>
>A follow-up to my earlier note today. Thanks for the suggestions on
>warming up the shop. It was in the low 70's and I brought the kerosene
>heater back out of the shed to address the sudden change in weather. I
>warmed the garage up til I was sweating, but no change in the
>fit.....until......
>
>I went ahead with strapping down and clamping the canopy, drilled and
>clecoed at top dead center one hole, both in the roll bar and canopy
forward
>frame, and rechecked the gap between the plexiglass and the center canopy
>frame bar, aft of the lock. The 1/2" max gap was still there and no
>indication of any less force to push it down. I went ahead and cut the
>windscreen from the aft section of plexiglass. I completed the drilling
and
>clecoing of the windscreen, and went back to look at the gap again between
>the plexiglass and the top canopy bar. Several people told me that the
>plexiglass becomes substantially more flexible after the cut is made, but I
>didn't think it would have any great affect this location behind the lock.
>I was wrong. The canopy plexiglass as dropped down onto the frame, with at
>most a 1/8" gap over a small area, which can easily be pushed into place.
>
>Thanks for the suggestions.
>
>Duane Bentley
>N515DB (Res)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
Hi all...
I am getting ready to drill my RH switch console, and was wondering if you
can tell me how much room I need for Van's Dimmer to fit in there... I plan
on spacing my switches 1" apart on center. Can I fit the dimmer in there at
a 1" spacing on the center of the knob too?
Thanks in advance...
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Wiring & Finish Kit
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Virus Got Me |
The only virus that got me is one I can't shake. Flying my RV-6A is the best
bug that I ever caught.
Gary Zilik - boycott Microsoft, use Unix,. no bugs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 tail shake |
> > Guys,
> > Let's not confuse wing buffeting with the tail shake, they are two
> different
> > things. Do the strakes help the wing buffeting (which really isn't a
> > problem), or the tail shake (which isn't a problem either, just
unusual)?
>
> This not wing buffet. This is root seperation of the wing. First it
> happens at 75mph.
> Second , I can turn my head and watch the tail physicaly shaking on the
> fuse. Not to mention the loud banging.
> with thestrake installed the actual indicated stall clean is about 62
mph.
> There is a little wing root
> buffet just before stall. This is not my first experience with this on an
8.
> The last one did the same. intersection fairings make no difference. Terry
B
Terry, these strakes sound very interesting. I know what you mean about the
tail, I've seen it myself both as a backseater in another RV-8, and in my
own. Will you make them available commercially? I'm in the Portland area and
could easily fly up to check them out. If you don't have a web site I'd be
happy to put pics and a story about them on my site as well.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 tail shake |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 12:37 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 tail shake
>
> Terry, these strakes sound very interesting. I know what you mean about
the
> tail, I've seen it myself both as a backseater in another RV-8, and in my
> own. Will you make them available commercially?
Right now the strake that we are using ae adapted from another application.
They take some rework to make them work. We are in the proccess of
making the new tooling for the 8. They will be avaliable from the same
company
that makes the VG's for Larry Vettermam. I will try and post some pics on
my
website soon.Terry B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hinge attachment to flap. |
Graham,
Your assumption that there are many ways to do this is absolutely correct!
I used a method I read in the RVator that goes something like this:
I built the flap bottom skin and ribs (except for the inboard rib). I left
off the top flap skin, spar, and hinge. After locating the outboard AILERON
bracket to the wing in its correct spot, I clamped the inboard aileron
bracket to the rear spar and used the trailing edge of the aileron to locate
the fore/aft position of the flap. This actually complied with the 3/4"
distance measurement on the plans! My real goal here was to make sure the
t.e. of the flap and aileron were lined up. The reason for leaving off the
top skin is that there is some fore/aft adjustment you can make to achieve
the trailing edge position.
Now for the down side: Once the flap was located, mounted, and drilled, I
found that I ran out of edge distance on the top of the spar. This is due
to having to conform to those dang prepunched holes (I HAD to drill the spar
to those holes). The fix was to add material to the spar which extended its
top flange back far enough to allow proper edge distance. Anyhow, the hinge
went on fine, it mounts to the wing properly and looks good. Your results
may vary.
Cheers!
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A Wings
>From: Graham Murphy <jgmurphy(at)xtra.co.nz>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV-List
>Subject: RV-List: Hinge attachment to flap.
>Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 23:07:49 +1200
>
>
>Listers
>
>Dwg 17 specifies a 3/4" dimension from the hinge C/L to the spar
>(presumably fwd face). On my -6 with prepunched skins and the -3 Hinge
>this results in the hinge rivets having an edge distance of approx 0.17"
>to the hinge aft edge, which is just under 2D. Obviously moving the
>hinge slightly aft improves this, but at the expense of the 3/4"
>dimension.
>The problem is caused by the prepunched holes being further aft than on
>the drg so that the 3/8" dimn is incompatible with the 3/4" one.
>
>My question is; How closely have builders been following the 3/4"
>dimension. Also I note that some builders dont rivet the hinge to the
>flap until installation to the wing which is probably a good idea. No
>doubt there are many opinions.
>
>FWIW I am going to use universal head rivets thru the flap and brace
>hinges, I dont believe they will have any measurable affect on drag so
>far back on the wing, and simplifies construction.
>
>Looking fwd to your advice.
>
>Graham Murphy, -6A
>building interupted by planting Olive trees, restarted finishing
>empennage & controls surfaces. Gotta extend the wshop b4 I can start on
>bigger bits.
>Blenheim
>New Zealand
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Dimmer |
Bill,
The dimmer pot is 5/8" wide. The dimmer doesn't come with a knob. I found
knobs at Radio Shack that are 5/8" in diameter but flare out at the base to
3/4". So, the dimmer is more than likely not going to be what will dictate
the distance...it will be the knob. I have 1 5/8" between my dimmers, but
it's way more than enough. With the Radio Shack knobs at 1" spacing you
will have about 1/4" between the knobs at the base and about 3/8" between
the top of the knobs. Is 3/8" enough room to grasp the knob? I personally
think about 1 1/4" would be about right if I had it to do over again.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage/finish
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane <n8vd(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2001 9:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: Van's Dimmer
>
> Hi all...
>
> I am getting ready to drill my RH switch console, and was wondering if you
> can tell me how much room I need for Van's Dimmer to fit in there... I
plan
> on spacing my switches 1" apart on center. Can I fit the dimmer in there
at
> a 1" spacing on the center of the knob too?
>
> Thanks in advance...
>
> Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A, N8VD, Wiring & Finish Kit
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
Are you sure this is specific to the design of the RV-8? Did you show your
results to Van and ask for comments? Could it be possible that e.g. the
counterweight on the rudder (just as an example) will cause this at one
specific weight range that you, Randy and Brian happen to have in common?
You mentioned that the position of the gear is involved. Did you try the
same tests without wheel pants?
This does definitely not happen to ALL RV-8's. Is it then safe to assume it
can't be the design? Terry seem to get this shaking and loud bangs (yikes!)
consistently below 75mph while others don't get it at all. One of the RV-8
builders/pilots I spoke to yesterday has spun his RV-8 several times and
there was definetaly not any sign of "rattle-rattle-KABOOM".
This issue still baffles me since I once again (just yesterday) flew in the
back seat of an -8 to and from the Ontario Wing annual meeting. We had to
slow down considerably as we came in to Waterloo airport due to other
traffic and flew for a long period between 65 and 75 mph. There was not even
a hint of vibration, loud bangs or physical movement of the tail. And yes, I
was paying close attention to it - even once while we were below 75 with no
flaps. We did a full stall landing and still no vibration, bangs or physical
movement of the tail. The first noise I could hear (other than the engine)
was when the tail wheel started rolling.
I also asked an other RV-8 pilot yesterday. He have not even heard of this
phenomenon, never mind experienced it - even through his test flying of
the -8 through different scenarios.
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Terry Burch
Sent: May 12, 2001 10:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 tail shake
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 12:37 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 tail shake
>
> Terry, these strakes sound very interesting. I know what you mean about
the
> tail, I've seen it myself both as a backseater in another RV-8, and in my
> own. Will you make them available commercially?
Right now the strake that we are using ae adapted from another application.
They take some rework to make them work. We are in the proccess of
making the new tooling for the 8. They will be avaliable from the same
company
that makes the VG's for Larry Vettermam. I will try and post some pics on
my
website soon.Terry B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 tail shake |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca>
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 11:22 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV8 tail shake
>
> Are you sure this is specific to the design of the RV-8? Did you show your
> results to Van and ask for comments? Could it be possible that e.g. the
> counterweight on the rudder (just as an example) will cause this at one
> specific weight range that you, Randy and Brian happen to have in common?
> You mentioned that the position of the gear is involved. Did you try the
> same tests without wheel pants?
>
> This does definitely not happen to ALL RV-8's. Is it then safe to assume
it
> can't be the design? Terry seem to get this shaking and loud bangs
(yikes!)
> consistently below 75mph while others don't get it at all. One of the
RV-8
> builders/pilots I spoke to yesterday has spun his RV-8 several times and
> there was definetaly not any sign of "rattle-rattle-KABOOM".
>
> This issue still baffles me since I once again (just yesterday) flew in
the
> back seat of an -8 to and from the Ontario Wing annual meeting. We had to
> slow down considerably as we came in to Waterloo airport due to other
> traffic and flew for a long period between 65 and 75 mph. There was not
even
> a hint of vibration, loud bangs or physical movement of the tail. And yes,
I
> was paying close attention to it - even once while we were below 75 with
no
> flaps. We did a full stall landing and still no vibration, bangs or
physical
> movement of the tail. The first noise I could hear (other than the engine)
> was when the tail wheel started rolling.
>
> I also asked an other RV-8 pilot yesterday. He have not even heard of this
> phenomenon, never mind experienced it - even through his test flying of
> the -8 through different scenarios.
>
I can tell you that the only way others are not having this problem is that
they are
duplicating the test. It requires complete power off. Also , as I have said
before,
flaps down reduce the shake. This is also not a tail induced problem. The
lastest 8
is not painted and I can watch the bad air ripple over the wing and hit the
tail in waves.
I have Email'd Van,s and got the standard answer. "We no nothing". They said
the same
thing when I broke an over head rudder pedal on my 6.
I am not saying that this problem is life threating. I am sure that for the
majority
of the pilots that fly the 8, they will never see this happen. But for the
pilots that do
fly their planes to the edge of the envelope, It could take it's toll. It is
not right
and now there is a fix, why not fix it.Terry B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
All--
In addition to the .pif virus, I got a virus attachment from the
Kempthorne's computer with the notation "Take a look to the attachment"
and the attachment was labeled "searchURL.scr"
Boyd Braem
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
What is the wing span of a RV-6A (should be same as RV-7A) WITHOUT
fiberglass wing tips on?
I'm house shopping and want to ensure I can get the wings on in the garage.
Steve Hurlbut
shurlbut(at)island.net
RV-7A
Comox, BC
moving to Kingston, Ont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rscott(at)involved.com (Richard Scott) |
| Subject: | RV6 to RV7 tail? |
I have a 2 yr old tail kit. Stopped by Van's recently & was quoted $530 for
the thicker elevator skins & new vert. stab & rudder.
Fortunately for me, when I bought my kit, the only thing that had been
completed was the horizontal stab, the only part that I can use on a -7
unmodified.
Dick Scott
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobby Hester
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2001 3:00 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV6 to RV7 tail?
I have found a good deal on an RV6 tail kit that has not been started
yet. It is about two years old and to order the parts to make it a 7
tail should cost about $350-$400 dollars. I would have to replace the
elevator skins and all the parts of the vertical stab and rudder in the
kit. I could save a few hundred dollars by doing this has anyone else
done this and does it sound like an ok thing to do or should I just
order the 7 tail?
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/
And see my Rans S12xl experimental aircraft - Hope to be building a RV7A
soon :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
Well this summer is going to be something else.
I'm moving across Canada in July. I'm going to take attend both EAA NW in
Arlington as well as Airventure in Oshkosh.
I'm excited already. I've been to Arlington, but never the big one!
A question about Airventure. I want to camp while I'm there (me and my tent,
no airplane).
The website says no pre-registration. Does this mean a camping spot will be
open when I get there?
Any idea who to talk to? Just want to make sure I have a piece of earth to
lay my head.
Thankx to all those Airventure experts.
Steve Hurlbut
shurlbut(at)island.net
RV-7A
Comox, BC, Canada
on my way east
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 5/13/01 1:09:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
shurlbut(at)island.net writes:
> What is the wing span of a RV-6A (should be same as RV-7A) WITHOUT
> fiberglass wing tips on?
>
> I'm house shopping and want to ensure I can get the wings on in the garage.
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> shurlbut(at)island.net
> RV-7A
> Comox, BC
> moving to Kingston, Ont
>
Removing the tips cuts the wingspan by a total of 2', so the overall span
will go down to 21'.
With careful scheduling, it really isn't necessary to have both wings mounted
for more than 2-3 days until the final mounting at the airport, so getting
both wings on in the garage isn't THAT big of a deal (pick a warm and dry
weekend and go for it!) On the other hand, it is VERY helpful to have a
garage where you can put the entire fuselage, with empennage attached and
firewall forward complete. In my garage, I had to remove the HS and turn the
fuselage diagonal once the engine/prop/spinner and tailspring were attached.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
The -7 has -8 wings.
Steve Hurlbut wrote:
>
>
> What is the wing span of a RV-6A (should be same as RV-7A) WITHOUT
> fiberglass wing tips on?
>
> I'm house shopping and want to ensure I can get the wings on in the garage.
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> shurlbut(at)island.net
> RV-7A
> Comox, BC
> moving to Kingston, Ont
>
> _
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 tail shake |
can you tell me ...is this common to ALL RV8, and the 8A's...or is it likely to
only happen on a "8"...thanks
j. dawson
finishing (forever) RV8A
Are Barstad wrote:
>
> Are you sure this is specific to the design of the RV-8? Did you show your
> results to Van and ask for comments? Could it be possible that e.g. the
> counterweight on the rudder (just as an example) will cause this at one
> specific weight range that you, Randy and Brian happen to have in common?
> You mentioned that the position of the gear is involved. Did you try the
> same tests without wheel pants?
>
> This does definitely not happen to ALL RV-8's. Is it then safe to assume it
> can't be the design? Terry seem to get this shaking and loud bangs (yikes!)
> consistently below 75mph while others don't get it at all. One of the RV-8
> builders/pilots I spoke to yesterday has spun his RV-8 several times and
> there was definetaly not any sign of "rattle-rattle-KABOOM".
>
> This issue still baffles me since I once again (just yesterday) flew in the
> back seat of an -8 to and from the Ontario Wing annual meeting. We had to
> slow down considerably as we came in to Waterloo airport due to other
> traffic and flew for a long period between 65 and 75 mph. There was not even
> a hint of vibration, loud bangs or physical movement of the tail. And yes, I
> was paying close attention to it - even once while we were below 75 with no
> flaps. We did a full stall landing and still no vibration, bangs or physical
> movement of the tail. The first noise I could hear (other than the engine)
> was when the tail wheel started rolling.
>
> I also asked an other RV-8 pilot yesterday. He have not even heard of this
> phenomenon, never mind experienced it - even through his test flying of
> the -8 through different scenarios.
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Terry Burch
> Sent: May 12, 2001 10:28 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 tail shake
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 12:37 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 tail shake
> >
> > Terry, these strakes sound very interesting. I know what you mean about
> the
> > tail, I've seen it myself both as a backseater in another RV-8, and in my
> > own. Will you make them available commercially?
>
> Right now the strake that we are using ae adapted from another application.
> They take some rework to make them work. We are in the proccess of
> making the new tooling for the 8. They will be avaliable from the same
> company
> that makes the VG's for Larry Vettermam. I will try and post some pics on
> my
> website soon.Terry B
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Which spark plugs? |
Guys,
Just wondering which spark plugs you O-360 A1x drivers are running. The
Lycoming engine manual does not provide a spec. My understanding is that the
REM40E is hotter than the REM38E and that either of these are the correct
plug, true?
Also, anyone other than Brian Denk had a problem with lead fouling that
would make the use of TCP warranted?
Lastly, any experience or thoughts on the new Unison plugs?
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, 9.3 hrs
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
> What is the wing span of a RV-6A (should be same as RV-7A) WITHOUT
> fiberglass wing tips on?
>
> I'm house shopping and want to ensure I can get the wings on in the
garage.
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> shurlbut(at)island.net
> RV-7A
> Comox, BC
> moving to Kingston, Ont
Steve,
According to Van's web page the wing span of the RV-6 is 23 ft (with
wingtips) and is 25 ft on the RV-7A (same wing as the RV-8)
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
> What is the wing span of a RV-6A (should be same as RV-7A) WITHOUT
> fiberglass wing tips on?
About 21 feet, but you need additional clearance to insert them into the
fuse, maybe 2 feet.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
Terry,
Please don't take the following as criticism. I know you have much
experience and involvment with the Vetterman products but this doesn't make
sense to me. I'm only trying to be logical. Please see response embedded in
your message below:
"I can tell you that the only way others are not having this problem is that
they are not duplicating the test. It requires complete power off."
I am absolutely sure that every single RV-8 driver must have done no
flap/power off stalls - at least once. I don't think for a minute anyone
would build an aircraft without stalling it.
" Also , as I have said before, flaps down reduce the shake. This is also
not a tail induced problem. The lastest 8 is not painted and I can watch
the bad air ripple over the wing and hit the tail in waves. I have Email'd
Van,s and got the standard answer. "We no nothing". They said the same thing
when I broke an over head rudder pedal on my 6."
Pardon my ignorance, but how can you see 'bad air'? What does it look like?
And why can you only see the air flow towards your tail in an unpainted
aircraft?
"I am not saying that this problem is life threating."
Maybe not so, but you did mention that 4 other 'expert RV pilots' got
scared. I would think that 'expert pilots' wouldn't get scared if it wasn't
at all threatening.
"I am sure that for the majority of the pilots that fly the 8, they will
never see this happen. "
I am sure the majority of the pilots that fly the 8 will ALWAYS see this
happen if it happens in all 8's. Otherwise, how could they stall the
aircraft power off witout flaps? I would think this would be the very first
stall you would do. Am I wrong?
"But for the pilots that do fly their planes to the edge of the envelope, It
could take it's toll."
I would not consider stalling power off, no flaps or practice dead-stick
landings with no flap equals: 'taking their planes to the edge of the
envelope'. I can't believe a responsible pilot would not practice/test these
things - especially if they built it.
" It is not right and now there is a fix, why not fix it.Terry B"
I agree. But I only think the -8 pilots that have this problem w/no flaps
and power off should bother with a fix since it doesn't seem to be
neccessary in all cases. It has been proven to me that not all RV-8's has
this problem. As you know: If it ain't broke...
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <tomvelvick(at)home.com> |
Flew from Phoenix to Payson, AZ for the Payson Airfare event. There were
more rv's there than any other homebuilt. I arrived early since I still
don't have many hours in the 4 and wanted to avoid the congestion. After
departing back to Phoenix, the winds had really picked up and visibility
decreased from the dust in the air. Had full left rudder in on final to
hold the plane straight due to strong crosswind. Airplane landed just fine
in a 3 point attitude and felt real solid on the ground even with the
gusting cross winds.
Today I took a friend and we flew up the Verde River following its curves
through the mountains almost to Sedona AZ and then came back. First flight
with a passenger. Plane took more forward trim in climb, cruise and ran
out of trim if increased rpms over 2300 in cruise. Incredible scenery,
incredible flight. Carried a little more power into the landing. My
friend is 5' 10" 165 lbs. Though he would be real cramped in the rear
seat, but he said it was comfortable and he would have no problem staying
in it for 3 hours. I had raised the rear seat 2" with a temperfoam
pad. Of course, he wants me to take him with me to Catalina Island next
month. Lets see, scantily clad members of the opposite sex, the ocean, and
rvs, who says you can't have heaven on Earth. .
Passengers left foot is really in the way of the manual flap. Decided to
replace the flap and trim with electric flap and trim. Need to figure out
how to install an intermediate latch opening on the canopy so it will stay
open a couple of inches while on the ground. otherwise you will bake. With
the windshield only a short distance from your face, you really see every
bug that spatters on the canopy. Going to carry some canopy cleaning
supplies with me on all trips.
Not getting too much work done on the rv-6a, gonna have to put the rv-4
away for a while, I guess.
Having way too much fun in Phoenix,
Tom Velvick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Great Summer |
With over 2 square miles of camping sites, you will have a place to camp.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 12:07 PM
Subject: RV-List: Great Summer
Well this summer is going to be something else.
I'm moving across Canada in July. I'm going to take attend both EAA NW in
Arlington as well as Airventure in Oshkosh.
I'm excited already. I've been to Arlington, but never the big one!
A question about Airventure. I want to camp while I'm there (me and my tent,
no airplane).
The website says no pre-registration. Does this mean a camping spot will be
open when I get there?
Any idea who to talk to? Just want to make sure I have a piece of earth to
lay my head.
Thankx to all those Airventure experts.
Steve Hurlbut
shurlbut(at)island.net
RV-7A
Comox, BC, Canada
on my way east
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "skybolt-aviator" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Great Summer |
It is first come first served.Should have no problem finding space for
tent.--Going for 31st year.Ollie&Lorene Washburn
RV6-A,N795LW,@FD77.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 1:07 PM
Subject: RV-List: Great Summer
>
> Well this summer is going to be something else.
>
> I'm moving across Canada in July. I'm going to take attend both EAA NW in
> Arlington as well as Airventure in Oshkosh.
> I'm excited already. I've been to Arlington, but never the big one!
>
> A question about Airventure. I want to camp while I'm there (me and my
tent,
> no airplane).
> The website says no pre-registration. Does this mean a camping spot will
be
> open when I get there?
> Any idea who to talk to? Just want to make sure I have a piece of earth to
> lay my head.
>
> Thankx to all those Airventure experts.
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> shurlbut(at)island.net
> RV-7A
> Comox, BC, Canada
> on my way east
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jacob Lauser <jrlauser(at)postoffice.pacbell.net> |
I am only now recovering from my experience in an RV-4 yesterday, but
I'm still grinning from ear to ear! I was down at Livermore yesterday
helping a friend patch up a Q2 he bought in Wisonsin last week, and the
proud owner of an RV-4 offered to take me on a test flight when he heard
I was going to build an 8. We taxied out and straight up (well, almost).
Woohoo! 1200 fpm up and we were out of Livermore airspace in no time. We
headed northeast past Mount Diablo and at about 5500 agl he let me have
the stick for about 20 minutes. I just zoomed around by my house and
over the Concord airport at Buchanan Field. 30 degree banked turns and
some gentle climbing/diving. Overall I was most impressed. But then Greg
took the controls back and asked me if I had ever felt 4 g's? In no time
at all he was buzzing around in lazy 8's and rolls and then he did this
brutal 180 degree something or other that left me with tunnel vision and
a squashed seat cushion. WOOOOOHOOOOO!!!!! We landed at Byron, took off,
and then headed back to Livermore. 2 things came to me as I dozed back
at the hanger waiting for everyone else to get back from lunch. First, I
HAVE TO GET ME ONE OF THESE!!! And Second, I think the choice of the 8
is a good one since I felt a bit cramped after an hour and a half
flight. Excellent ride, and I am now fully sold on building a Van's
RV-8. *GRIN GRIN*
P.S. I don't know how fighter pilots do it. We pulled a tad over 4 g's
and I
was exhausted for the rest of the day! Brutal, but fun... )
- Jake Lauser
jrlauser(at)postoffice.pacbell.net
________________________________________________________________________________
I recieved a voice mail message from John Chandler, an RV-6A builder who is
interested in the prop I have for sale. He forgot to leave his phone number.
If he reads this or if an acquaintance could relay this message, please call
me.
Thanks,
Rick McBride
(703) 322-1868
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dn" <rv6flyn(at)dellepro.com> |
RV6 kit # 22276 took to the air today (yes mothers day) for her first
flight. Flew fine, little heavy left wing, and about 1/2 a ball of trim
needed for the rudder. I logged just over 1 hour in 2 flights. Landed with
a big smile each time.
Dustin Norlund
Owasso, OK
RV6 - N555DN
Flying - 1.2 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The RV Grin... |
>
>I am only now recovering from my experience in an RV-4 yesterday, but
>I'm still grinning from ear to ear! I was down at Livermore yesterday
>helping a friend patch up a Q2 he bought in Wisonsin last week, and the
>proud owner of an RV-4 offered to take me on a test flight when he heard
>I was going to build an 8. We taxied out and straight up (well, almost).
>Woohoo! 1200 fpm up and we were out of Livermore airspace in no time. We
>headed northeast past Mount Diablo and at about 5500 agl he let me have
>the stick for about 20 minutes. I just zoomed around by my house and
>over the Concord airport at Buchanan Field. 30 degree banked turns and
>some gentle climbing/diving. Overall I was most impressed. But then Greg
>took the controls back and asked me if I had ever felt 4 g's? In no time
>at all he was buzzing around in lazy 8's and rolls and then he did this
>brutal 180 degree something or other that left me with tunnel vision and
>a squashed seat cushion. WOOOOOHOOOOO!!!!! We landed at Byron, took off,
>and then headed back to Livermore. 2 things came to me as I dozed back
>at the hanger waiting for everyone else to get back from lunch. First, I
>HAVE TO GET ME ONE OF THESE!!! And Second, I think the choice of the 8
>is a good one since I felt a bit cramped after an hour and a half
>flight. Excellent ride, and I am now fully sold on building a Van's
>RV-8. *GRIN GRIN*
>
>P.S. I don't know how fighter pilots do it. We pulled a tad over 4 g's
>and I
> was exhausted for the rest of the day! Brutal, but fun... )
>
>- Jake Lauser
Uh oh, now you did it. You took a ride. Your fate is sealed! My first RV
ride was also in a -4. I loved the handling of the airplane but also felt
very cramped back there. The -8 with it's larger interior would only
improve my appreciation of the RV design so I was convinced I had picked the
right airplane to build. I was already well into the wings so it was too
late to turn back! Sometimes you just gotta have faith.
The G's are something you just get used to in time. G conditioning is
something that can go away entirely in just a short time of no flying. If
I've been flying regularly, I can toss the -8 around with three and four G's
being applied and feel just fine afterwards. It's a strange sort of
affliction....you learn to love it! Good job on not hurling by the way. I
simply don't put that kind of G loading on my passengers as most will turn
green very quickly. I know I sure do when someone else is doing the yanking
and banking.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
206 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
Plus 2 feet
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Boyd C. Braem
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 10:20 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing span
The -7 has -8 wings.
Steve Hurlbut wrote:
>
>
> What is the wing span of a RV-6A (should be same as RV-7A) WITHOUT
> fiberglass wing tips on?
>
> I'm house shopping and want to ensure I can get the wings on in the
garage.
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> shurlbut(at)island.net
> RV-7A
> Comox, BC
> moving to Kingston, Ont
>
> _
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Which spark plugs? |
In a message dated 5/13/01 10:39:25 AM Pacific Daylight Time, randy@rv-8.com
writes:
<< Just wondering which spark plugs you O-360 A1x drivers are running. The
Lycoming engine manual does not provide a spec. My understanding is that the
REM40E is hotter than the REM38E and that either of these are the correct
plug, true?>>
True. My new O-360-A1A came with REM38E plugs and they seem fine. I lean
aggressively on the ground and 50 deg rich of peak in cruise. I seldom have
any fouling if I keep the idle above 1000 rpm to help the regular lead
scavengers in the fuel work, but maybe the REM40E plugs might be a little
more resistant to fouling. I believe that the REM37BY are specifically sold
as a more foul resistant plug, but I have no experience with them.
<< Also, anyone other than Brian Denk had a problem with lead fouling that
would make the use of TCP warranted? >>
I clean and gap plugs at 25 hr intervals (along with oil changes, filter at
50 hrs) and add TCP when I fuel up at my home field (which I don't usually do
because of the high cost/gallon) but don't use it on the "road" as I don't
like carrying in the plane. It definitely works.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelsonhoffrv9(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Great Summer |
As mentioned, there will always be a spot. Depending on when you get there,
the spot may seem to be in another state.
I used to always get there Sunday about noon and had my pick of spots since
so many people leave early. I came once on a Saturday night and had to camp
out almost to the main road, although I have to admit it was around Midnight
and I had a little trouble seeing what was empty. There were plenty of spots
but quite a ways away from the gate. I always bring a bike so it's at worst a
2 minute bike ride.
With the repositioning of the event to earlier in the week I am going to try
before the weekend this year. Will actually go to the Van's dinner for a
change. Figured if I showed up Sunday this year all I would be able to do is
help clean up. Probably could get a good camping spot though.
Curt Hoffman Loveland, OH
RV-9A (N912WK reserved)
Working on Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Can someone point me to an easy to use web site to research
AD's?
I'm looking for info on a Hartzell HC-C2YK-1BF with S7666A-4
blades & Lyc O-360 A1D.
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PlaneWizz(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 tail shake |
Terry, good points.
I am not an engineer and don't know a lot about aircraft engineering. I have
not ever flown in a RV, but have piloted Cessnas, Pipers, Beechcraft and
sailplanes and have never experienced tail shake. After flying all these
type of aircraft and stalling them all, I have a very difficult time
believing tail shake would be purposely engineered into an airframe. There
are enough stresses placed on the metal structure without purposely adding
more stress. This seems like it would have the effect of leading to
premature metal fatigue and failure.
As you stated, I would hope that anyone experiencing Tail Shake as described
in these posts would consult Van's. But, what do I know? Experiencing tail
shake would really shake me up.
Dave Pohl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Help with AD's |
http://www.tc.gc.ca/aviation/ad/ad_e.htm
This is a Canadian site but has ALL the US ADs! Go figure. FAA wants to
sell subscriptions. If you want I can look up any on my CD service.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org
or
experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie and Tupper England" <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 7:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: Help with AD's
Can someone point me to an easy to use web site to research
AD's?
I'm looking for info on a Hartzell HC-C2YK-1BF with S7666A-4
blades & Lyc O-360 A1D.
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Help with AD's |
Here is a list thru 98
Engine,Textron Lycoming,O-360 - 23 ADs.
Propeller,Hartzell,HC-C2 - 4 ADs.
* = Recurring AD
%=Superceded AD
59-10-07 - Cylinder baffle clamps
64-16-05 - Oil seal failure
64-20-01 - Plastic pitch change blocks
*66-20-04 - Oil filter adaptor gasket
73-23-01 - Piston pin failures
75-08-09 - Oil pump
79-10-03 R2 - Engine mounting bolts
79-15-02 - Economizer channel plug
80-04-03 R2 - Push rods
*80-14-07 - Exhaust valve spring seats
81-18-04 R2 - Oil pump
%85-14-10 R2 - Blade clamp assemblies
*87-10-06 R1 - Rocker arm assemblies
90-02-23 - Propeller hub cracks
*90-04-06 R1 - Prop governor oil line
91-14-22 - Crankshaft gear retaining bolt
*92-12-05 - Piston pin failure
93-11-11 - AC, Textron, Rajay fuel pumps
94-14-13 - Low octane detonation
%94-17-13 - Prop hub failure
*95-07-01 - Connecting rod bolts
95-26-02 - Low octane detonation
96-09-10 - Oil Pumps
97-01-03 - Piston pin
%97-15-11 - Piston pin
98-02-08 - Crankshaft corrosion
*98-17-11 - Crankshafts
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie and Tupper England" <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 7:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: Help with AD's
Can someone point me to an easy to use web site to research
AD's?
I'm looking for info on a Hartzell HC-C2YK-1BF with S7666A-4
blades & Lyc O-360 A1D.
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald R. Eaves" <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Air-Tec Great Customer Service! |
I'm writing this to show to my satisfaction with Air-Tec's Customer Service.
After 31 hours of operation of my RV6 I had to remove my Air-Tec starter to
perform other maintenance. And I discovered one of the mounting ears broken
from the automotive starter.
After a call to Air-Tec to find out which automotive starter I would need to
replace it. Dennis asks me how many hours I had on it. Even after
explaining I had purchased it a long time ago he stated it should not of
failed that way or that early.
He insisted I give him my address so he could ship me a replacement.
Air-Tec did not have to replace the starter.
This understanding indicates Air-Tec knows Home Builders buy things, install
and fly them months or years later.
So when we do experience premature failure that would have been covered in
normal situations. It is no different than someone who bought it 3 months
and 30 hours ago.
Thanks Dennis & Air-Tec!
For Great Customer Service!
PS - The starter works great! And is well worth the money.
And if it fails I can go to my friendly Auto Zone and get a replacement for
about $52.
Don Eaves
RV6 Flying about 41+ Big RV Grin Hours
Memphis TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | True Airspeed instrument |
Here's a bone-head question from someone who should know better, but can't
seem to clarify his confusion:
I have a TAS instrument in my Rv. Bought it from Van I believe. You set the
outside temperature opposite your altitude and it introduces a correction
for non-standard temperature, and non-standard pressure, thus giving you a
TAS reading. But the lowest that the white "TAS" band goes is 140MPH...no
correction below that number. Why?
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 tail shake |
I dont know about rv's but next time your in a cessna 150 with 40 degrees of
flaps out ,take a look see over your right shoulder. Better yet, side slip
the 150 with forty degrees of flaps and take a look, and you will see why
they say "not recommended". By the way Vans shipped my -7 wing kit on 5-8-01.
Cant wait.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 tail shake |
In a message dated 5/13/2001 9:46:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Kdh347(at)aol.com
writes:
> Better yet, side slip
> the 150 with forty degrees of flaps and take a look, and you will see why
> they say "not recommended".
ok i'll bite, why?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVanLaak(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Engine problem solved |
About a year ago I wrote to the list seeking help with a problem I was having
with the O-360 in my RV6. When I would level out and let the engine wind up
a roughness would start and then the engine would lose power. Like most
people who wrote me, I thought I had a stuck valve, but in over a year of
trouble shooting and test flying I could not get rid of it completely.
Sometimes it would go away for a while but then it would come back. I had
the fuel injection and ignition systems overhauled, and put in a graphic
engine analyzer to localize the problem to the right cylinder (#1). Then I
had that cylinder professionally rebuilt. Talked to the Lycoming reps at Sun
N Fun, and even the Lycoming guru at Mattituck. After a lot of talking he
suggested swapping the cylinders on that side to prove once and for all that
it was the cylinder before buying a new one.
Lo and behold, when I went to swap the cylinders I had to move a manifold
pressure sensor from one to the other. It goes into the hole that can hold a
primer but is plugged on most of the cylinders I have seen, and often
requires heat to remove. The plug in the offending cylinder was finger
tight!!. Obviously as the head got hot and the cylinder really started
sucking as the engine wound up, the plug would leak and the cylinder would
get leaner, and hotter, and leaner still, and hotter... Now that the plug is
tight the engine is purring better than ever (with all of the new spark
plugs, rebuilt injectors, etc, etc I wasted money on before finding the
problem).
I can't tell you how many folks went over the engine and the cylinder with me
and none of us thought to test these plugs for tightness. The others were
none to tight either, but all have been torqued now. Even though I have
built and rebuilt several airplanes and have been an A&P for almost 20 years,
you can always learn something new.
Add this one to your bag of tricks.
Jim Van Laak
N1KJ - 330 hours and flying again
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Moore" <robm440(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 tail shake |
I read another posting that stated when Van's Aircraft was asked about
tail shake they (Van's) never heard of the problem. Is there a problem here?
Didn't Van's Aircraft have there RV-8 crash on a demo ride. If I remember
correctly the tail section came off in flight, the plane tumbled, a wing
broke off, then crashing killing the two people aboard. I think they had
just completed a high speed pass but were slowing down or were in slow
flight when the accident happened.
I hope this is not taboo to talk about this but there could be a problem
with the RV-8. Vans aircraft could be keeping quiet on the subject as there
was/are lawsuits involved. This has been bothering me since I first read
about tail shake.
Suffering from foot in mouth disease
Robert Moore
>Terry, good points.
>I am not an engineer and don't know a lot about aircraft engineering. I
>have
>not ever flown in a RV, but have piloted Cessnas, Pipers, Beechcraft and
>sailplanes and have never experienced tail shake. After flying all these
>type of aircraft and stalling them all, I have a very difficult time
>believing tail shake would be purposely engineered into an airframe. There
>are enough stresses placed on the metal structure without purposely adding
>more stress. This seems like it would have the effect of leading to
>premature metal fatigue and failure.
>
>As you stated, I would hope that anyone experiencing Tail Shake as
>described
>in these posts would consult Van's. But, what do I know? Experiencing
>tail
>shake would really shake me up.
>
>Dave Pohl
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 tail shake |
HOLY CRAP! Everyone HIT THE DECK..........INCOMING!! This is going to be
ugly....I'm going to crawl under my desk and wait for the all clear.
For clarity though, the wing snapped...the tail did not come off...and it's
thought the rear seater pulled the 'remove wings' lever between his knees.
That's all I'm saying....now I'm climbing under the desk.
Bill
-4 wings
>
> I read another posting that stated when Van's Aircraft was asked about
> tail shake they (Van's) never heard of the problem. Is there a problem
here?
> Didn't Van's Aircraft have there RV-8 crash on a demo ride. If I remember
> correctly the tail section came off in flight, the plane tumbled, a wing
> broke off, then crashing killing the two people aboard. I think they had
> just completed a high speed pass but were slowing down or were in slow
> flight when the accident happened.
> I hope this is not taboo to talk about this but there could be a problem
> with the RV-8. Vans aircraft could be keeping quiet on the subject as
there
> was/are lawsuits involved. This has been bothering me since I first read
> about tail shake.
>
> Suffering from foot in mouth disease
>
> Robert Moore
>
>
> >Terry, good points.
> >I am not an engineer and don't know a lot about aircraft engineering. I
> >have
> >not ever flown in a RV, but have piloted Cessnas, Pipers, Beechcraft and
> >sailplanes and have never experienced tail shake. After flying all these
> >type of aircraft and stalling them all, I have a very difficult time
> >believing tail shake would be purposely engineered into an airframe.
There
> >are enough stresses placed on the metal structure without purposely
adding
> >more stress. This seems like it would have the effect of leading to
> >premature metal fatigue and failure.
> >
> >As you stated, I would hope that anyone experiencing Tail Shake as
> >described
> >in these posts would consult Van's. But, what do I know? Experiencing
> >tail
> >shake would really shake me up.
> >
> >Dave Pohl
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 tail shake |
----- Original Message -----
From: "old ogre" <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 1:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 tail shake
>
> can you tell me ...is this common to ALL RV8, and the 8A's...or is it
likely to
> only happen on a "8"...thanks
> j. dawson
> finishing (forever) RV8A
>
only 8"s. It,s a landing gear thing.Terry B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 tail shake |
Whoa! Let's not start any new rumours about the RV-8 crash. Go to Van's
web site and read what they have to say about the crash.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/58rvconc.htm
The link to the NTSB Final Report on that page is out of date. The current
link is:
http://www.ntsb.gov/NTSB/brief.asp?ev_id 001211X10121&key=1
Read the NTSB report.
The tail did not come off. The only discussion about the tail has to do
with a trim servo found in the full tab up position (equivalent to full
nose down trim). The clevis on the trim tab arm was broken.
Now, I have no idea how the trim on that aircraft was set up. Was full
nose down trim normal for higher speed and aft CG? Maybe, or maybe
not. Some aircraft run out of nose down trim at aft CG at high speed, some
don't. But, if that clevis failed in the air with the trim in the full
nose down position, there would be a sudden, large change in the stick
force as the tab moved to the neutral position. The stick would tend to
come back suddenly. At high speed the aerodyanamics can produce a lot more
g than the structure can withstand.
As far as the "tail shake" goes, I'll reserve my judgement until I get my
aircraft flying. A bit or natural stall warning would be a good thing, as
long as it was not going to put too much load on the structure.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/
>
> I read another posting that stated when Van's Aircraft was asked about
>tail shake they (Van's) never heard of the problem. Is there a problem here?
>Didn't Van's Aircraft have there RV-8 crash on a demo ride. If I remember
>correctly the tail section came off in flight, the plane tumbled, a wing
>broke off, then crashing killing the two people aboard. I think they had
>just completed a high speed pass but were slowing down or were in slow
>flight when the accident happened.
>I hope this is not taboo to talk about this but there could be a problem
>with the RV-8. Vans aircraft could be keeping quiet on the subject as there
>was/are lawsuits involved. This has been bothering me since I first read
>about tail shake.
>
>Suffering from foot in mouth disease
>
>Robert Moore
>
>
> >Terry, good points.
> >I am not an engineer and don't know a lot about aircraft engineering. I
> >have
> >not ever flown in a RV, but have piloted Cessnas, Pipers, Beechcraft and
> >sailplanes and have never experienced tail shake. After flying all these
> >type of aircraft and stalling them all, I have a very difficult time
> >believing tail shake would be purposely engineered into an airframe. There
> >are enough stresses placed on the metal structure without purposely adding
> >more stress. This seems like it would have the effect of leading to
> >premature metal fatigue and failure.
> >
> >As you stated, I would hope that anyone experiencing Tail Shake as
> >described
> >in these posts would consult Van's. But, what do I know? Experiencing
> >tail
> >shake would really shake me up.
> >
> >Dave Pohl
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 tail shake |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Moore" <robm440(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 11:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 tail shake
>
> I read another posting that stated when Van's Aircraft was asked about
> tail shake they (Van's) never heard of the problem. Is there a problem
here?
> Didn't Van's Aircraft have there RV-8 crash on a demo ride. If I remember
> correctly the tail section came off in flight, the plane tumbled, a wing
> broke off, then crashing killing the two people aboard. I think they had
> just completed a high speed pass but were slowing down or were in slow
> flight when the accident happened.
Wrong,Wrong,Wrong! Absolutely not!. That accident had nothing to do with
the tail.
Van proved beyond a doubt that it was an over stress that caused the wing to
fail.
No one knows for sure why , but some one in that plane pulled hard enough to
take the plane over the design limits. This is nothing to do with what I am
talking about.Terry B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 tail shake |
Robert Moore wrote:
>
>
> I read another posting that stated when Van's Aircraft was asked about
> tail shake they (Van's) never heard of the problem. Is there a problem here?
> Didn't Van's Aircraft have there RV-8 crash on a demo ride. If I remember
> correctly the tail section came off in flight, the plane tumbled, a wing
> broke off, then crashing killing the two people aboard. I think they had
> just completed a high speed pass but were slowing down or were in slow
> flight when the accident happened.
> I hope this is not taboo to talk about this but there could be a problem
> with the RV-8. Vans aircraft could be keeping quiet on the subject as there
> was/are lawsuits involved. This has been bothering me since I first read
> about tail shake.
>
> Suffering from foot in mouth disease
>
> Robert Moore
>
Shit where do you people get information anyway, you have a computer why don't
you
use it? Look up the facts before spouting crap. I well stop here now while still
being
nice. Geez I well not even put the D---N---A because that message did not have
it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 tail shake |
Kdh347(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I dont know about rv's but next time your in a cessna 150 with 40 degrees of
> flaps out ,take a look see over your right shoulder. Better yet, side slip
> the 150 with forty degrees of flaps and take a look, and you will see why
> they say "not recommended". By the way Vans shipped my -7 wing kit on 5-8-01.
> Cant wait.
> Ken
>
>
Your are right Ken it well shake like h*** but that is not the reason that it
is recommeneded NOT to slip with full flaps. The reason is the blanking effect
on the elevator.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Shankle" <bshankle(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Tail shake concerns |
Hi all,
I just ordered my RV7 empennage kit and I just joined this list about 3 days ago.
Now everyone's going on about tail-shake in the RV8.
Imagine how that makes me feel....worried....
Please someone, tell me, this isn't going to be a problem with the RV7. :(
I've got a 172 and I've stalled it many different configs and I've spun it several
times (on purpose to practice recovery) and I've never heard a "bang". And
if I did I probably wouldn't fly it again.
Someone posted the going theory is it's due to the landing gear. Someone else said
they "saw" the air "buffeting" back and hitting the tail. Does anyone have
a wind-tunnel we could test a model in?
I'd be willing to take it over the the University's wind tunnel if someone has
a scale model of an RV8 so we could try to pin down what's going on.
Concerened,
Bruce Shankle
RV7 - Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Moore" <robm440(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 tail shake |
I am totally guilty of not getting the facts first and listening to rumours.
Robert Moore
>
>
>Whoa! Let's not start any new rumours about the RV-8 crash. Go to Van's
>web site and read what they have to say about the crash.
>
>http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/58rvconc.htm
>
>The link to the NTSB Final Report on that page is out of date. The current
>link is:
>
>http://www.ntsb.gov/NTSB/brief.asp?ev_id 001211X10121&key=1
>
>Read the NTSB report.
>
>The tail did not come off. The only discussion about the tail has to do
>with a trim servo found in the full tab up position (equivalent to full
>nose down trim). The clevis on the trim tab arm was broken.
>
>Now, I have no idea how the trim on that aircraft was set up. Was full
>nose down trim normal for higher speed and aft CG? Maybe, or maybe
>not. Some aircraft run out of nose down trim at aft CG at high speed, some
>don't. But, if that clevis failed in the air with the trim in the full
>nose down position, there would be a sudden, large change in the stick
>force as the tab moved to the neutral position. The stick would tend to
>come back suddenly. At high speed the aerodyanamics can produce a lot more
>g than the structure can withstand.
>
>As far as the "tail shake" goes, I'll reserve my judgement until I get my
>aircraft flying. A bit or natural stall warning would be a good thing, as
>long as it was not going to put too much load on the structure.
>
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
>khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
>Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
>http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/
>
>
> >
> > I read another posting that stated when Van's Aircraft was asked about
> >tail shake they (Van's) never heard of the problem. Is there a problem
>here?
> >Didn't Van's Aircraft have there RV-8 crash on a demo ride. If I remember
> >correctly the tail section came off in flight, the plane tumbled, a wing
> >broke off, then crashing killing the two people aboard. I think they had
> >just completed a high speed pass but were slowing down or were in slow
> >flight when the accident happened.
> >I hope this is not taboo to talk about this but there could be a problem
> >with the RV-8. Vans aircraft could be keeping quiet on the subject as
>there
> >was/are lawsuits involved. This has been bothering me since I first read
> >about tail shake.
> >
> >Suffering from foot in mouth disease
> >
> >Robert Moore
> >
> >
> > >Terry, good points.
> > >I am not an engineer and don't know a lot about aircraft engineering.
>I
> > >have
> > >not ever flown in a RV, but have piloted Cessnas, Pipers, Beechcraft
>and
> > >sailplanes and have never experienced tail shake. After flying all
>these
> > >type of aircraft and stalling them all, I have a very difficult time
> > >believing tail shake would be purposely engineered into an airframe.
>There
> > >are enough stresses placed on the metal structure without purposely
>adding
> > >more stress. This seems like it would have the effect of leading to
> > >premature metal fatigue and failure.
> > >
> > >As you stated, I would hope that anyone experiencing Tail Shake as
> > >described
> > >in these posts would consult Van's. But, what do I know?
>Experiencing
> > >tail
> > >shake would really shake me up.
> > >
> > >Dave Pohl
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail shake concerns |
Relax Bruce,
Like most groups of people that gather to confer on most any given subject,
from time to time this list crowd finds some bones to pick and before you
know it they manage to assemble a never before seen dinosaur that ends up
stored in the archives.
In the last few years we've all seen a few come and go. There are times when
its all I can do to back away from the keyboard and just let whatever
subject or issue die as it should.
I've also seen some folks take this or that subject all so seriously that
they actually threw in the towel and quit the list!
Gee's!,,, just another day on the list!!
There is good stuff and bad stuff on "the list" just like in real life.
For the most part the good stuff out numbers the bad. I think that over all
you'll find it to be a useful resource.
Take out what you need and give back in what you can.
I hope you find building your aircraft as enthralling and as much fun as I
do. It's a shame though that you will be deprived of all the jig building,
layout and drilling etc that I got to do. Some of us are just luckier than
others I guess.
Life is a joke, the punch line comes at the end. {;-]
Now get busy and build build build, your already wasting way too much time
on this list! {:-)!
Oh!, by the way Welcome Aboard.
Flying is fun, Take off eh!
Jim in Kelowna - RV6a- hooking up engine stuff.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Shankle <bshankle(at)nc.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 9:57 PM
Subject: RV-List: Tail shake concerns
>
> Hi all,
>
> I just ordered my RV7 empennage kit and I just joined this list about 3
days ago.
>
> Now everyone's going on about tail-shake in the RV8.
>
> Imagine how that makes me feel....worried....
>
> Please someone, tell me, this isn't going to be a problem with the RV7. :(
>
> I've got a 172 and I've stalled it many different configs and I've spun it
several times (on purpose to practice recovery) and I've never heard a
"bang". And if I did I probably wouldn't fly it again.
>
> Someone posted the going theory is it's due to the landing gear. Someone
else said they "saw" the air "buffeting" back and hitting the tail. Does
anyone have a wind-tunnel we could test a model in?
>
> I'd be willing to take it over the the University's wind tunnel if someone
has a scale model of an RV8 so we could try to pin down what's going on.
>
> Concerened,
> Bruce Shankle
> RV7 - Empennage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
Also note that the aircraft was slightly over gross and that the aircraft was flying
at 191 knots...and the maneuvering speed was 142.
Semper Fi
John
RV-6 (ailerons and flaps done by Memorial Day?)
> From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 tail shake
>
>
> Whoa! Let's not start any new rumours about the RV-8 crash. Go to Van's
> web site and read what they have to say about the crash.
>
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/58rvconc.htm
>
> The link to the NTSB Final Report on that page is out of date. The current
> link is:
>
> http://www.ntsb.gov/NTSB/brief.asp?ev_id 001211X10121&key=1
>
> Read the NTSB report.
>
> The tail did not come off. The only discussion about the tail has to do
> with a trim servo found in the full tab up position (equivalent to full
> nose down trim). The clevis on the trim tab arm was broken.
>
> Now, I have no idea how the trim on that aircraft was set up. Was full
> nose down trim normal for higher speed and aft CG? Maybe, or maybe
> not. Some aircraft run out of nose down trim at aft CG at high speed, some
> don't. But, if that clevis failed in the air with the trim in the full
> nose down position, there would be a sudden, large change in the stick
> force as the tab moved to the neutral position. The stick would tend to
> come back suddenly. At high speed the aerodyanamics can produce a lot more
> g than the structure can withstand.
>
> As far as the "tail shake" goes, I'll reserve my judgement until I get my
> aircraft flying. A bit or natural stall warning would be a good thing, as
> long as it was not going to put too much load on the structure.
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
> Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
> http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/
>
> >
> > I read another posting that stated when Van's Aircraft was asked about
> >tail shake they (Van's) never heard of the problem. Is there a problem here?
> >Didn't Van's Aircraft have there RV-8 crash on a demo ride. If I remember
> >correctly the tail section came off in flight, the plane tumbled, a wing
> >broke off, then crashing killing the two people aboard. I think they had
> >just completed a high speed pass but were slowing down or were in slow
> >flight when the accident happened.
> >I hope this is not taboo to talk about this but there could be a problem
> >with the RV-8. Vans aircraft could be keeping quiet on the subject as there
> >was/are lawsuits involved. This has been bothering me since I first read
> >about tail shake.
> >
> >Suffering from foot in mouth disease
> >
> >Robert Moore
> >
> >
> > >Terry, good points.
> > >I am not an engineer and don't know a lot about aircraft engineering. I
> > >have
> > >not ever flown in a RV, but have piloted Cessnas, Pipers, Beechcraft and
> > >sailplanes and have never experienced tail shake. After flying all these
> > >type of aircraft and stalling them all, I have a very difficult time
> > >believing tail shake would be purposely engineered into an airframe. There
> > >are enough stresses placed on the metal structure without purposely adding
> > >more stress. This seems like it would have the effect of leading to
> > >premature metal fatigue and failure.
> > >
> > >As you stated, I would hope that anyone experiencing Tail Shake as
> > >described
> > >in these posts would consult Van's. But, what do I know? Experiencing
> > >tail
> > >shake would really shake me up.
> > >
> > >Dave Pohl
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy / Rollbar Fit |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
05/14/2001 09:24:04 AM
Hey Hal
Did you cut the latch handle tube on the top of the center bar flush with
the bar?
Thanks
Eric
"kempthornes" (at)matronics.com on 05/12/2001 02:32:23
PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Slider Canopy / Rollbar Fit
RE: Duane Bentley's plexi not fits the slider canopy frame center bar
recurve
Suggestions:
First: Be sure the frame fits the airplane, slides right, latches, doesn't
overhang the fuse etc.
Second: Move the plexi back and forth on the frame. Mine fit the center
bow perfectly without stuffing it with bondo like stuff ala Jim Cone.
Maybe
they are just all different or maybe you really do need to cut and lengthen
the center bow. I did mine without welding by using a bar inside the tube
to join the two parts and with bolts thru the bar.
But, as Van's tech support folks say, "Just make it fit!"
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | FW: Microair Transponder Update |
FYI. I ordered a T2000 transponder from these guys a while back. Looks
like the MicroAir xponder may finally see the light of day...
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Coates [mailto:mcoates(at)mcp.com.au]
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 5:13 PM
Subject: Microair Transponder Update
G'day Guys,
Just an update on the Microair T2000 Transponder and the new Microair VHF
760-8.33 transceiver.
The T2000 is on the last day of testing as i write and so far everything has
been OK with the TSO program, Microair have advised the T2000 will be
available to us in approx 2 weeks with delivery in the following week to our
customers. so we are looking at the first to the second week of June at the
moment.
At the time of ordering most customers just ordered a T2000 transponder and
did not select which model they required so this email is not only to update
you on delivery but to also find out which model you require.
_____
T2000 Transponder.
T2000SFL
Is a 57mm round faced unit which can be fitted to any standard 2 "
instrument hole. The SF has a dual line LCD display with 8 characters on
each line, the display is backlit.
T2000SF
Is a 57mm round faced unit which can be fitted to any standard 2 "
instrument hole. The SF has a dual line LED display with 8 characters on
each line. The SF is available as an integrated unit, and can operate with a
fully functional remote display head.
A flat pack will be available in approx 6 to 8 weeks from now.
_____
The Microair 760-8.33 VHF Transceiver
The new radio is available in three versions as follows....
760-8.33SFL
Is a 57mm round face unit which can be fitted to any standard 2 "
instrument hole. The SFL has a dual line LCD display with 8 characters on
each line with backlighting.
760-8.33SF
Is a 57mm round face unit which can be fitted to any standard 2 "
instrument hole. The SF has a dual line LED display with 8 characters on
each line with backlighting.
760-8.33SL
The 760-8.33SL Is a flat pack, cradle mounted unit with a single line 16
character high resolution LED display.
Availability on both the round radios will be approx 3 weeks from today with
the flat pack adding another week to delivery.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Normanjd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/13/01 |
Hi, I am building an RV6 and am at the point of assembling the cabin frame.
I have seen some RV6's that used flush head screws to attach the Plexiglas to
the cabin frame (tip up canopy). Does this require installing platenuts
prior to closing this assembly? I have had difficulty straightening the
frame parts and getting the outside surface smooth for contact with the
Plexiglas. Has anyone had any experience in these areas that would help me?
Thanks, Norman Donaldson Grosse Ile Michigan.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: True Airspeed instrument |
I am guessing here that the designer of the A/S indicator figured that if
you get below 140 in an RV, or anything else that goes these speeds, then
you are probably in the traffic pattern or doing air work where you don't
really care about TAS. Where TAS comes in most handy for most aircraft is
cross country flights. Not always but most. Just my opinion.
Mike Robertson
>From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: True Airspeed instrument
>Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 18:42:02 -0600
>
>
>Here's a bone-head question from someone who should know better, but can't
>seem to clarify his confusion:
>
>I have a TAS instrument in my Rv. Bought it from Van I believe. You set the
>outside temperature opposite your altitude and it introduces a correction
>for non-standard temperature, and non-standard pressure, thus giving you a
>TAS reading. But the lowest that the white "TAS" band goes is 140MPH...no
>correction below that number. Why?
>
>John
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Dimmer |
Bill,
It depends on how large of a diameter the dimmer rheostat is. Fortuantely
with the -8A the console is long enough to be able to play around a bit.
With a -8 console you may not have enough room to even put it there.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com" , "Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
>
>Subject: RV-List: Van's Dimmer
>Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 20:24:05 -0600
>
>
>Hi all...
>
>I am getting ready to drill my RH switch console, and was wondering if you
>can tell me how much room I need for Van's Dimmer to fit in there... I
>plan
>on spacing my switches 1" apart on center. Can I fit the dimmer in there
>at
>a 1" spacing on the center of the knob too?
>
>Thanks in advance...
>
>Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
>RV-8A, N8VD, Wiring & Finish Kit
>http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/13/01 |
FWIW, I used flush head #6 screws and tinnerman washers in the cabin frame.
Based on advice from Van's, I tapped them into the cabin frame. I think that
platenuts would have been a much better idea, but the folks at Van's say
that the attachment around the base of the canopy are what really holds the
thing in place. The cabin frame screws should not be torqued very hard,
obviously, or else they'll pull out.
Steve Soule
RV-6A
-----Original Message-----
Hi, I am building an RV6 and am at the point of assembling the cabin frame.
I have seen some RV6's that used flush head screws to attach the Plexiglas
to
the cabin frame (tip up canopy). Does this require installing platenuts
prior to closing this assembly? I have had difficulty straightening the
frame parts and getting the outside surface smooth for contact with the
Plexiglas. Has anyone had any experience in these areas that would help me?
Thanks, Norman Donaldson Grosse Ile Michigan.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 tail shake |
> > I read another posting that stated when Van's Aircraft was asked about
> > tail shake they (Van's) never heard of the problem. Is there a problem
here?
> > Didn't Van's Aircraft have there RV-8 crash on a demo ride. If I
remember
> > correctly the tail section came off in flight, the plane tumbled, a wing
> > broke off, then crashing killing the two people aboard. I think they had
> > just completed a high speed pass but were slowing down or were in slow
> > flight when the accident happened.
> > I hope this is not taboo to talk about this but there could be a problem
> > with the RV-8. Vans aircraft could be keeping quiet on the subject as
there
> > was/are lawsuits involved. This has been bothering me since I first read
> > about tail shake.
Guys,
One, *please* get your facts straight when discussing things such as this. I
am concerned that newbies might actually take the above comments away as
what happened when in fact it is not even close.
Two, let's not make this tail shake thing into something it's not. I have
personally felt it in two RV-8's, one in which I flew 6 hrs from the back
seat, and in my own which now has 9.4 hours. This is NOT a big deal or
threatening in any way. The shake is not bad enough to hurt anything if
that's what some are thinking. In fact it could be looked at as an
additional stall warning and as such a safety factor. When I first felt it
it did not scare me at all, rather made me think "well, the stall warning is
certainly noticeable".
I will be following Terry Burch's theory about the gear legs causing this
effect with interest. Frankly, my interest is not in eliminating the shake,
but rather in some method of lowering stall speed if it's possible. I would
love to fly a comparably equipped -8A to get some additional data on this
and see how it feels in comparison.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, N558RL, 9.4 hours, learning every flight, bugs almost stamped
out.
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Engine problem solved |
Thanks for telling us about that, Jim. I takes a big man to admit he spent
a lot of money trying to fix a "finger-tight" problem. I'll be sure to
double check all my fittings.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: JVanLaak(at)aol.com [mailto:JVanLaak(at)aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 8:05 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Engine problem solved
About a year ago I wrote to the list seeking help with a
problem I was having
with the O-360 in my RV6. When I would level out and let
the engine wind up
a roughness would start and then the engine would lose
power. Like most
people who wrote me, I thought I had a stuck valve, but in
over a year of
trouble shooting and test flying I could not get rid of it
completely.
Sometimes it would go away for a while but then it would
come back. I had
the fuel injection and ignition systems overhauled, and put
in a graphic
engine analyzer to localize the problem to the right
cylinder (#1). Then I
had that cylinder professionally rebuilt. Talked to the
Lycoming reps at Sun
N Fun, and even the Lycoming guru at Mattituck. After a lot
of talking he
suggested swapping the cylinders on that side to prove once
and for all that
it was the cylinder before buying a new one.
Lo and behold, when I went to swap the cylinders I had to
move a manifold
pressure sensor from one to the other. It goes into the
hole that can hold a
primer but is plugged on most of the cylinders I have seen,
and often
requires heat to remove. The plug in the offending cylinder
was finger
tight!!. Obviously as the head got hot and the cylinder
really started
sucking as the engine wound up, the plug would leak and the
cylinder would
get leaner, and hotter, and leaner still, and hotter... Now
that the plug is
tight the engine is purring better than ever (with all of
the new spark
plugs, rebuilt injectors, etc, etc I wasted money on before
finding the
problem).
I can't tell you how many folks went over the engine and the
cylinder with me
and none of us thought to test these plugs for tightness.
The others were
none to tight either, but all have been torqued now. Even
though I have
built and rebuilt several airplanes and have been an A&P for
almost 20 years,
you can always learn something new.
Add this one to your bag of tricks.
Jim Van Laak
N1KJ - 330 hours and flying again
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Alternator puzzle- oscillating voltage - Answer |
| From: | "John Allen" <fliier(at)onebox.com> |
A couple of weeks ago I posted a question to the group about a fluctuating
voltage on my RV-6A. I received several responses from the group which
were excellent. Over the weekend I solved the problem and wanted to
post this message so as to close the loop on this eMail thread in the
Archives.
The problem was encountered using a Mark Landoll alternator converted
to use an external voltage regulator. This was a Ford part which Mark
provided. The alternator tested good on the bench and put out 14 volts.
On the airplane the voltage ocillated from 14.2 to 14.7 volts. I replaced
the split master and the voltage regulator. I ran a direct ground to
the alternator case from the ground bus. I verified that the voltage
received on the field wire equaled the battery voltage to within 0.1
volt. I bypassed the zener diode that provides voltage overprotection.
None of these things revealed the problem. I then bypassed all the wiring
in the cockpit by running the power wire from the voltage regulator directly
from the "B" lead of the alternator. This effectively allows the voltage
regulator to sense voltage directly from the alternator. I shut off
all the electronics and fired it up. The voltage was steady at 13.5
volts on the new (unadjusted) voltage regulator. Thus I new that the
problem was somewhere between the positive lead of the battery and the
voltage regulator, but that the voltage regulator was OK. By progressively
bypassing sections of the alternator control wiring I was able to isolate
the problem.
The problem was fixed by running a new wire from the fuse to the hot
side of the alternator master switch. I do not know why this worked.
Perhaps the original wire was subject to some induced voltage from something
else in the wire bundle, or there was some defect in the wire or associated
connections, which was problematic for the solid state voltage regulator.
Otherwise the flight testing of N602JA proceeds well. There are now
10 hours on the airplane, so I can de-emphasize engine break-in and focus
on pilot skills. #1 problem is speed control in the pattern. When you
put the nose of this airplane down with the flaps down you are almost
immediately at or over the maximum flap expension speed. Also, the control
effectiveness is completely different at slow speeds than in cruise.
My natural tendency when the wings atart wagging (problem 2) is to put
the nose down (thereby causing problem 1). This is not a Cessna.
Having said that, the airplane is very fun to fly. When I flew with Mike
Seager it was in the 6A with constant speed prop. That thing really pinned
you to your seat on take-off. The fixed pitch is less spectacular.
It only allows about 2200 rpm static so you're giving up a lot of horsepower
at the beginning of the take-off roll. I typically only climb at 700
fpm at 105 kts in order to keep the cylinders cool, but it will climb
at around 1800 fpm solo in a pinch. In cruise it will turn around 2550
RPM and yield 155 to 160 knots (CAS). Usually I'm flying it at 2400
RPM and truing out at 150kts. . .this is not a Cessna.
--
John Allen
Sign Up Now! http://www.onebox.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aero-conversions ACV-C05 carb. |
Jake,
Give some more details, a company web site, or something... we may (I
am) be interested in getting more information. Thanks,
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail shake concerns |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Shankle" <bshankle(at)nc.rr.com>
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2001 12:57 AM
Subject: RV-List: Tail shake concerns
>
> Hi all,
>
> I just ordered my RV7 empennage kit and I just joined this list about 3
days ago.
>
> Now everyone's going on about tail-shake in the RV8.
>
> Imagine how that makes me feel....worried....
>
> Please someone, tell me, this isn't going to be a problem with the RV7. :(
>
Bruce, there is no reason to worry. The shake on the 8 is caused by landing
gear location.
The 7 is just a refined 6. Great plane. Terry B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternator puzzle- oscillating voltage - Answer |
Thanks for the update and comments, especially the "this is not a Cessna".
Hopefully you'll induce more people to take transition training.
Garry LeGare
RV6 Finishing Again.
John Allen wrote:
>
> A couple of weeks ago I posted a question to the group about a fluctuating
> voltage on my RV-6A. I received several responses from the group which
> were excellent. Over the weekend I solved the problem and wanted to
> post this message so as to close the loop on this eMail thread in the
> Archives.
>
> The problem was encountered using a Mark Landoll alternator converted
> to use an external voltage regulator. This was a Ford part which Mark
> provided. The alternator tested good on the bench and put out 14 volts.
> On the airplane the voltage ocillated from 14.2 to 14.7 volts. I replaced
> the split master and the voltage regulator. I ran a direct ground to
> the alternator case from the ground bus. I verified that the voltage
> received on the field wire equaled the battery voltage to within 0.1
> volt. I bypassed the zener diode that provides voltage overprotection.
> None of these things revealed the problem. I then bypassed all the wiring
> in the cockpit by running the power wire from the voltage regulator directly
> from the "B" lead of the alternator. This effectively allows the voltage
> regulator to sense voltage directly from the alternator. I shut off
> all the electronics and fired it up. The voltage was steady at 13.5
> volts on the new (unadjusted) voltage regulator. Thus I new that the
> problem was somewhere between the positive lead of the battery and the
> voltage regulator, but that the voltage regulator was OK. By progressively
> bypassing sections of the alternator control wiring I was able to isolate
> the problem.
>
> The problem was fixed by running a new wire from the fuse to the hot
> side of the alternator master switch. I do not know why this worked.
> Perhaps the original wire was subject to some induced voltage from something
> else in the wire bundle, or there was some defect in the wire or associated
> connections, which was problematic for the solid state voltage regulator.
>
> Otherwise the flight testing of N602JA proceeds well. There are now
> 10 hours on the airplane, so I can de-emphasize engine break-in and focus
> on pilot skills. #1 problem is speed control in the pattern. When you
> put the nose of this airplane down with the flaps down you are almost
> immediately at or over the maximum flap expension speed. Also, the control
> effectiveness is completely different at slow speeds than in cruise.
> My natural tendency when the wings atart wagging (problem 2) is to put
> the nose down (thereby causing problem 1). This is not a Cessna.
>
> Having said that, the airplane is very fun to fly. When I flew with Mike
> Seager it was in the 6A with constant speed prop. That thing really pinned
> you to your seat on take-off. The fixed pitch is less spectacular.
> It only allows about 2200 rpm static so you're giving up a lot of horsepower
> at the beginning of the take-off roll. I typically only climb at 700
> fpm at 105 kts in order to keep the cylinders cool, but it will climb
> at around 1800 fpm solo in a pinch. In cruise it will turn around 2550
> RPM and yield 155 to 160 knots (CAS). Usually I'm flying it at 2400
> RPM and truing out at 150kts. . .this is not a Cessna.
>
> --
> John Allen
>
> Sign Up Now! http://www.onebox.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> |
| Subject: | Aero-conversions ACV-C05 carb. |
www.AeroConversions.com Here is their websight looks like a great product.
Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, finishing.
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Rabaut [mailto:crabaut(at)coalinga.com]
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2001 6:32 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aero-conversions ACV-C05 carb.
Jake,
Give some more details, a company web site, or something... we may (I
am) be interested in getting more information. Thanks,
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Dustin,
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (priming the cowling today)
Niantic, CT (Westerly airport)
>From: "dn" <rv6flyn(at)dellepro.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: First Flight
>Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 17:10:41 -0500
>
>
>RV6 kit # 22276 took to the air today (yes mothers day) for her first
>flight. Flew fine, little heavy left wing, and about 1/2 a ball of trim
>needed for the rudder. I logged just over 1 hour in 2 flights. Landed
>with
>a big smile each time.
>
>Dustin Norlund
>Owasso, OK
>RV6 - N555DN
>Flying - 1.2 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Free Anti-Virus Software |
Al,
Did you get my ("Van's) emp. fairing yet?
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | tailwheel bearing |
Thread-Topic: tailwheel bearing
Thread-Index: AcDcm1CNABECV+cWRzGS+Y9w/NEYLg=
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Hi folks,
After 132 hours of abuse, my tailwheel bearings are starting to make
grinding noises, which I noticed when I was pushing my plane back into
the hangar last night.
I searched the archives for a better replacement alternative, and found
the posts about getting better (sealed) replacements from Whistler
Bearing...my question is, do the replacements from Whistler require a
bushing for the axle bolt?
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/13/01 |
Norman
I'll explain how I did mine, also a tip up. You know the black plastic
strips you have that came with the kit for the sides of the canopy plexi
mounts. I just purchased more of the same material (at a local plastic shop)
and used it inside the roll bar. You'll need 2 pieces for the inside of the
roll bar , , expoxied into place with some clamps until set. i also used the
same material on the rear part of the canopy (rear window ). a strip along
the inside of the rounded sides and rear of the rear window. the drill and
tap nicely, and it is one continuos piece instead of a bunch of plate nuts or
aluminum strips.
i can't show you pictures as it is all closed up now.
hope this helps
Scott
Tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tail shake/virus (humor) |
Randall
I'm afraid you are doomed. You have only expereinced phase 1 of the virus. Next
it will delete all waypoints in your GPS database, reset all your radio
frequencies and then propagate itself to other nearby aircraft via your
transponder!! :-) The end is near! Repent!
Charlie Kuss
PS Thanks for the grin
do not archieve this silliness
>
> I didn't used to have the tail shake but then I opened some email
> attachments from this list and now I have it on my -6. My hangar mate got it
> too on his RV-4 -- I'm afraid I passed it on to him. Norton didn't detect
> it -- does anyone know if McAffe will get rid of it?
>
> :-)
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~200 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Free Anti-Virus Software |
Haven't seen it yet Chuck. I'll let you know as soon as it
arrives. Thanks.....AL
>
>Al,
>
> Did you get my ("Van's) emp. fairing yet?
>
> Chuck
>
>
Al Mojzisik
InAir Instruments, LLC
Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI)
AOA and SO much more!
http://www.liftreserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Construction Videos for Sale |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
17, 2001) at 05/14/2001 02:56:40 PM
Listers,
I have the following construction videos for sale:
RV Wing Construction by George and Becki Orndorff, 2 video set
RV-6 Fuselage Construction by George and Becki Orndorff, 3 video set
Aircraft Engine Systems by George and Becki Orndorff, 2 video set
Fiberglass 101 by Sam James, 1 video set
Some of these tapes are applicable to all RV's others may be rather dated
due to the fancy pre-punched kits Van now supplies. Make me an offer for
any or all
Dean Pichon
**** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one of
Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may contain
confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee
only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not
the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tailwheel bearing |
>
>Hi folks,
>
>After 132 hours of abuse, my tailwheel bearings are starting to make
>grinding noises, which I noticed when I was pushing my plane back into
>the hangar last night.
>
>I searched the archives for a better replacement alternative, and found
>the posts about getting better (sealed) replacements from Whistler
>Bearing...my question is, do the replacements from Whistler require a
>bushing for the axle bolt?
>
>Bob Japundza
>RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
Bob,
Same deal here. Tailwheel bearings got pretty crunchy. Stewart Bergner
(RV4) found some sealed, precision bearings that fit the hub with a bit of
grinding of the wheel hub to seat them. He also provided an axle bushing.
I searched locally and could not find an exact replacement for those
shopping cart grade bearings. He might be able to send you a set of the
good ones.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Stewart Bergner email: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
| Subject: | TRAFFIC ALERT ATD-200 |
I found this today while browsing around... Looks pretty interesting...
http://www.monroyaero.com/detect.html
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Wiring & Finish Kit
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Issue closed! (Was RV8 tail shake) |
I apologize for not giving up on this issue for so long - particularly since
I don't have a flying 8. The very graphic description of the problem was
enough for me to be concerned though and some of the posts didn't make sense
to me (I'm not going to re-type any of it). I had really hoped that others
on the list with flying -8's would have offered their comments but guess
it's not about to happen.
I have officially given up on this entire tail shake/loud bang thing and
will just keep building so I can try it myself one day in my own -8 - with
and without wheel pants or whatever it takes. It can't be as severe as the
description since nobody seem to worry about it enough to narrow it down by
proper testing. I think by just adding strakes, we would make a 'band-aid'
around a potential problem that could be fixed/avoided in other, proper
ways. At least the builders and RV-8's I know of, have never experienced it
throughout the entire test program. This is enough to put my mind to rest.
Issue closed! (in my books anyways)
Back to the dungeon,
Are
RV-8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert Moore
Sent: May 14, 2001 2:09 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 tail shake
I am totally guilty of not getting the facts first and listening to rumours.
Robert Moore
>
>
>Whoa! Let's not start any new rumours about the RV-8 crash. Go to Van's
>web site and read what they have to say about the crash.
>
>http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/58rvconc.htm
>
>The link to the NTSB Final Report on that page is out of date. The current
>link is:
>
>http://www.ntsb.gov/NTSB/brief.asp?ev_id 001211X10121&key=1
>
>Read the NTSB report.
>
>The tail did not come off. The only discussion about the tail has to do
>with a trim servo found in the full tab up position (equivalent to full
>nose down trim). The clevis on the trim tab arm was broken.
>
>Now, I have no idea how the trim on that aircraft was set up. Was full
>nose down trim normal for higher speed and aft CG? Maybe, or maybe
>not. Some aircraft run out of nose down trim at aft CG at high speed, some
>don't. But, if that clevis failed in the air with the trim in the full
>nose down position, there would be a sudden, large change in the stick
>force as the tab moved to the neutral position. The stick would tend to
>come back suddenly. At high speed the aerodyanamics can produce a lot more
>g than the structure can withstand.
>
>As far as the "tail shake" goes, I'll reserve my judgement until I get my
>aircraft flying. A bit or natural stall warning would be a good thing, as
>long as it was not going to put too much load on the structure.
>
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
>khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
>Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
>http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/
>
>
> >
> > I read another posting that stated when Van's Aircraft was asked about
> >tail shake they (Van's) never heard of the problem. Is there a problem
>here?
> >Didn't Van's Aircraft have there RV-8 crash on a demo ride. If I remember
> >correctly the tail section came off in flight, the plane tumbled, a wing
> >broke off, then crashing killing the two people aboard. I think they had
> >just completed a high speed pass but were slowing down or were in slow
> >flight when the accident happened.
> >I hope this is not taboo to talk about this but there could be a problem
> >with the RV-8. Vans aircraft could be keeping quiet on the subject as
>there
> >was/are lawsuits involved. This has been bothering me since I first read
> >about tail shake.
> >
> >Suffering from foot in mouth disease
> >
> >Robert Moore
> >
> >
> > >Terry, good points.
> > >I am not an engineer and don't know a lot about aircraft engineering.
>I
> > >have
> > >not ever flown in a RV, but have piloted Cessnas, Pipers, Beechcraft
>and
> > >sailplanes and have never experienced tail shake. After flying all
>these
> > >type of aircraft and stalling them all, I have a very difficult time
> > >believing tail shake would be purposely engineered into an airframe.
>There
> > >are enough stresses placed on the metal structure without purposely
>adding
> > >more stress. This seems like it would have the effect of leading to
> > >premature metal fatigue and failure.
> > >
> > >As you stated, I would hope that anyone experiencing Tail Shake as
> > >described
> > >in these posts would consult Van's. But, what do I know?
>Experiencing
> > >tail
> > >shake would really shake me up.
> > >
> > >Dave Pohl
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Marty , Ralph ,
Rick(at)earthlink.net, The List
| Subject: | [Fwd: Cowl Pictures And Brake Bleeder] |
This is the last one hope this is helpful.
Garry LeGare
RV6 Finishing
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 15:59:47 -0700
From: Garry LeGare <"versadek"@ earthlink.net>
Subject: Cowl Pictures And Brake Bleeder
Paul,
Well I finally got around to shooting the cowl and bleeder pictures.
Also I put together some instructions on how to modify and use the
bleeder.
The bleeder bottle is a "R L Flowmaster Home And Garden Sprayer Home &
Garden Sprayer Model 1998. This is a revised version of mine, but the
changes don't appear to be significant.
Before this bottle will work for bleeding brakes you'll need to modify
it.
Take off just the very end of the nozzle (part with the spray orifice
in it) and from the outside carefully drill it out to 1/4". I found a
Unibit worked quite well, just go real slow so it doesn't grab.
Cut a two foot piece of 1/4" O.D. X 1/8" I.D. clear poly (vinyl) tube.
Cut a piece of 3/16" O.D. Nyla Seal tube exactly .625 (5/8") long.
Make sure all the ends are cut square, other wise the connection will
leak.
Slide the nozzle piece, that you previously drilled, over the 1/4" tube
about 2", make sure the threaded end is towards the 2" side.
Heat the 2" end of the 1/4" tube in a cup of boiled water for about 3
minutes. This will soften it and allow the .625" piece of Nyla Flow to
be inserted into it easily. Be sure to quickly push the Nyla Flow all
the way into the Ploy tube so the ends are flush, you must do this
before poly tube has a chance to heat up the Nyla Flow piece.
Let this assembly cool for ten minutes, and then, insert it into nozzle
holder and tighten the nozzle nut. That's it, your ready to bleed
brakes. Helpful hint, use a 1/8" rivet to plug the poly tube when not in
use.
Here is the procedure I use to use the Bleeder.
Fill the tank with fluid.
Pump up the pressure ( you don't need much).
Press on the discharge button until the fluid fills up the clear poly
tube.
Stop pressing on the button and slide the end of the poly hose onto the
bleeder fitting on the bottom of the caliper.
Open the bleeder fitting then press on the discharge button until the
fluid reservoir is about 1/4 full, then stop filling. Some times the
check valves in the brake cylinders stick and it is necessary to pump
lightly once or twice to free them so that the fluid will start flowing.
It is much easier if you have someone with a flashlight look into the
reservoir and tell you when to stop. Tighten the bleeder nut and move to
the other side. This is were the 1/8" rivet comes in handy.
Repeat, but this time let the fluid fill to about 3/4 full.
Check pedal pressure, it should be quite hard, and check for leaks.
That's it.
Hope this helps save some time and effort. Which leaves more time for
flying.
Garry LeGare
Stop filling at about 1/4 full.
.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oops, sorry I ment to send this to Tim Lewis |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | first inflight problem |
After a low high speed pass, I pulled up and than experience a lot of
vibrations. I pulled the power back and that seem to help, I than eased it
in for a landing with no problems. On the ground everything seemed OK, I
pulled the cowl and notice no problems there. I than ran the engine on the
ground and only notice slight vibrations. As I was installing the cowl I
finely notice the problem, I slung a leading edge laminate to my prop. I
have a Culver and called the number and it was disconnected. Does anyone
know how I can get in touch with him or is there someone that can repair my
prop? I will post this under a different subject, hopefully for more
responses.
Blue Skies,
Carey Mills
-4, 130hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Need Prop repair ph # (help) |
I slung the leading edge laminate out of one side of my prop today.
I have a Culver and called the number and it was disconnected. Does anyone
know how I can get in touch with him or is there someone that can call to
repair my prop?
Carey Mills
RV4 130hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | TRAFFIC ALERT ATD-200 |
This looks real cool. It almost looks like an automotive radar detector
modified and priced for aviation :)
My #1 worry is almost always getting in the way of another plane! They are
dang hard to see from a cockpit on a hazy day. It gets real busy around my
local airport and it's not controlled so nobody is there to tell you about
traffic when there is 6 or 7 of them in the circuit and many going to and
from the field.
Page has been bookmarked. Thanks for the info!
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
Sent: May 14, 2001 4:16 PM
Subject: RV-List: TRAFFIC ALERT ATD-200
I found this today while browsing around... Looks pretty interesting...
http://www.monroyaero.com/detect.html
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Wiring & Finish Kit
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: tailwheel bearing |
Bob,
I use the GEN 21506-88 sealed bearings I got from
Whistler Bearing here in Denver. The smallest i/d they come in
is 1/2 inch so a full length bushing is required for the 3/8 axle
bolt. I have 340 hrs on mine without a problem. I have sent them
to others on a limited basis with a bushing. Some tail wheel units
require that you remove the taper from the casting bore so these
bearings seat fully as they have a longer stepped portion.
Easily done with a drill press and a 1 in. sanding drum by spinning
the drum with the wheel lying on the table so the drum removes
the material from the center only.. The wheel is rotated against the
rotation of the drum.
Stewart RV4 CO. N273SB.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: TRAFFIC ALERT ATD-200 |
In some of the other aviation e-sites, there have been reports that this
device has one little problem: It always shows the nearest transponder - the
one in its own aircraft!
In a message dated 5/14/01 8:45:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
abarstad(at)sympatico.ca writes:
> >
>
> This looks real cool. It almost looks like an automotive radar detector
> modified and priced for aviation :)
> My #1 worry is almost always getting in the way of another plane! They are
> dang hard to see from a cockpit on a hazy day. It gets real busy around my
> local airport and it's not controlled so nobody is there to tell you about
> traffic when there is 6 or 7 of them in the circuit and many going to and
> from the field.
>
> Page has been bookmarked. Thanks for the info!
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
>
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Prop repair ph # (help) |
Rvmils(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I slung the leading edge laminate out of one side of my prop today.
> I have a Culver and called the number and it was disconnected. Does anyone
> know how I can get in touch with him or is there someone that can call to
> repair my prop?
> Carey Mills
> RV4 130hrs
>
Carey I can't help you with Culver but I have had Props Inc. located at
Newport, OR do work on my wood prop and his work was excellent. If you
want to talk to him his # is 541-265-3032.
He also has a web site address is http://skybusiness.com/props_inc
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Help - RV-4 Instrument Panel Mount |
I am assembling my RV-4 IP and had a question. Reference Print #27 detail
"A" (or your memory)
Van's directions say to rivet the F421A flange to the top foreword skin F421,
then drill clearance holes in the instrument panel flange F403 to clear these
shop heads. Is there a reason why I cannot rivet the F421A flange to the
Instrument panel flange (F403) instead of the top skin? Then I don't have to
cut clearance holes and if I elect to use it to mount some small lighting
underneath it, it would be part of the IP, not the removable top skin.
I called Van's and Scott said he never though of it and could not see why it
would not work. He thought it was a good idea, but I think he was a little
surprised no one has ever asked. Can anyone think of a reason why this would
not work? Please let me know either way. Thanks
-Mike
FW back.........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Clearman" <dclearman(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TRAFFIC ALERT ATD-200 |
I have one of these units. It does occasionally pick up my own transponder,
but not too often. Also, these spurious signals are easy to distinguish
since they suddenly show a very close aircraft, and absent a space shuttle
or SST encounter, most planes take more than 2 or 3 seconds to come from 4
or 5 miles to .5 mile. I often get signals from aircraft I don't see, but
I've never seen an aircraft likely to have a transponder that the device
didn't pick up. It gives me a lot of comfort on hazy days and around
uncontrolled fields. You really can tell if someone is close. Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Complete tail assembly |
One of my best A&P workers at Oshkosh has a complete RV-4 tail assembly for
sale for just the price of the parts. Call Bobby Green @ 303-659-5829
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Need Culver Props PH # |
I slung the leading edge laminate out of one side of my prop today.
I have a Culver and called the number and it was disconnected. Does anyone
know how I can get in touch with him or is there someone that can call to
repair my prop?
Carey Mills
RV4 130hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Graves <rlgbee(at)fnbnet.net> |
Have a Warnke prop in need of refinishing, but cannot seen to get in
touch with the
Warnke's. Need help or advice.
Robert
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Help - RV-4 Instrument Panel Mount |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
17, 2001) at 05/15/2001 08:19:12 AM
I did my -4 panel per the plans, but did consider fabricating it as you
describe. I chose to go per the plans thinking that the F421A flange would
(cosmetically) protect the edge of the forward skin. If I were to do it
again, I would probably assemble it as you describe. Protecting the edge
does not seem to be an issue.
|--------+---------------------------------->
| | N8292W(at)aol.com |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
| | ronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 05/14/01 09:18 PM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv-list |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------------->
|
|
| To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
|
| cc:
|
| bcc:
|
| Subject: RV-List: Help - RV-4 Instrument Panel Mount
|
I am assembling my RV-4 IP and had a question. Reference Print #27 detail
"A" (or your memory)
Van's directions say to rivet the F421A flange to the top foreword skin
F421,
then drill clearance holes in the instrument panel flange F403 to clear
these
shop heads. Is there a reason why I cannot rivet the F421A flange to the
Instrument panel flange (F403) instead of the top skin? Then I don't have
to
cut clearance holes and if I elect to use it to mount some small lighting
underneath it, it would be part of the IP, not the removable top skin.
I called Van's and Scott said he never though of it and could not see why
it
would not work. He thought it was a good idea, but I think he was a little
surprised no one has ever asked. Can anyone think of a reason why this
would
not work? Please let me know either way. Thanks
-Mike
FW back.........
**** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one of
Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may contain
confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee
only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not
the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
Robert: Go to Clark Lydick, Performance Propellers, P.O.Box 486,Patagonia,
AZ, 85624....520-394-2059...Knows Warnke props very well.... Jim Brown, 3 &
4...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Need Culver Props PH # |
Carey: See Aymar-Demuth, PO Box 853, Ellicott City, MD,
21041.....410-461-4329....Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Lundin <rlundin46(at)yahoo.com> |
Their address from Sport Aviation Magazine is:
Margie Warnke Propellers
P.M.B. 193
3906 west Ina Rd. #200
Tucson AZ 85741-2295
520-884-8132
Hope that helps.
Rick
--- Robert Graves wrote:
>
>
> Have a Warnke prop in need of refinishing, but
> cannot seen to get in
> touch with the
> Warnke's. Need help or advice.
> Robert
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Help - RV-4 Instrument Panel Mount |
Mike,
I did exactly as you describe. But it was because I misread the plans! At
any rate it seems to be working out just fine. There really isn't enough
room on mine to mount any lighting but you're probably more clever than I
am. You'll be amazed how close you actually sit to that panel!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
RV-4 Finishing up canopy, engine, cowling, all that other stuff.
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: N8292W(at)aol.com [mailto:N8292W(at)aol.com]
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2001 6:19 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Help - RV-4 Instrument Panel Mount
I am assembling my RV-4 IP and had a question. Reference
Print #27 detail
"A" (or your memory)
Van's directions say to rivet the F421A flange to the top
foreword skin F421,
then drill clearance holes in the instrument panel flange
F403 to clear these
shop heads. Is there a reason why I cannot rivet the F421A
flange to the
Instrument panel flange (F403) instead of the top skin?
Then I don't have to
cut clearance holes and if I elect to use it to mount some
small lighting
underneath it, it would be part of the IP, not the removable
top skin.
I called Van's and Scott said he never though of it and
could not see why it
would not work. He thought it was a good idea, but I think
he was a little
surprised no one has ever asked. Can anyone think of a
reason why this would
not work? Please let me know either way. Thanks
-Mike
FW back.........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny M. Dennison" <Denny(at)DennisonSoftware.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail shake concerns |
Since pre-stall buffet is caused by air alternating between being
attached and detached from the wing's boundary layer it would seem the
solution, if one was desired, would be to reduce the size of the waves.
Vortex generators are one way of the more successful devices for
decreasing the amplitude of these waves.
Regards,
Denny M. Dennison
building RV-8 empennage
flying Baby Ace Model D & Falcon 195 Hang glider
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Puckett <rv8er(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Instrument panel gap??? |
Hello,
I'm in the process of fitting my F-803 instrument panel. I've got a
pretty big gap between the F-803B's and the top skin at the main
longeron F-887 portion of the sub panel. The gap is a little over 1/8th
inch at the longeron and tapers to no gap about 4 rivets up. Being that
the 803C is pre punched to the 803B's I can't just adjust the space
there.
Has anyone else had this???
The gap itself does not really worry me. I'm planning to just use
different thickness spaces when riveting. I more concerned that my
longerons are too far apart and something is going to bite me later. I
can't see how this could be the case with the gear box upper Z supports
in place and fitting perfectly and the main spar bulkhead being pre
punched. I'm guessing my panel is not positioned high enough but there
is no way to get it any higher. I did not have to widen the longeron
cutouts at all and the panel would have to go up quite a bit to eat up
the 1/8 inch on the side.
Anybody have any ideas or insight?
Thanks,
Greg Puckett 80081
Elizabeth, Colorado
rv8er(at)concentric.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
Here you go Brian... If it will fit in a bike...
http://www.marineturbine.com/y2kinnov.htm
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Instrument panel gap??? |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Instrument panel gap??? |
Gary
I have the same. Just gonna shim since averything else fits just right. I
have heard of this before.
Dennis
80473
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 firewall view |
Eugene, Or. area listers,
I have an engine mounted to an "8" fuselage. I understand there are lots of
tubes, wires, rods, linkage etc. that connect the two. I've not felt this
ignorant since my first date. Is there anyone in the area (100 mi.) who has
a finished 8, planning to remove the cowl soon, who would identify things my
partner points to and maybe say why its there as opposed to somewhere else,
as I video the process?
It would be worth lunch, or a brew, or both. You probably don"t want my
firstborn, he eats like a horse.
Thanks,
Dennis
Eugene, OR
80473 (living in fear of too many holes in the wrong places)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Instrument panel gap??? |
Greg,
Getting a gap in that area is not uncommon. What you may want to do just to
double check that everything is ok is put the canopy rollbar in place and
see how close that fits. As you have probably already seen/heard the
rollbars don't always fit tight either so if the gap on the rollbar mounts
is within about 3/8 of an inch then you should be in the ball park.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: Greg Puckett <rv8er(at)concentric.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Instrument panel gap???
>Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 10:09:23 -0600
>
>
>Hello,
>
>I'm in the process of fitting my F-803 instrument panel. I've got a
>pretty big gap between the F-803B's and the top skin at the main
>longeron F-887 portion of the sub panel. The gap is a little over 1/8th
>inch at the longeron and tapers to no gap about 4 rivets up. Being that
>the 803C is pre punched to the 803B's I can't just adjust the space
>there.
>
>Has anyone else had this???
>
>The gap itself does not really worry me. I'm planning to just use
>different thickness spaces when riveting. I more concerned that my
>longerons are too far apart and something is going to bite me later. I
>can't see how this could be the case with the gear box upper Z supports
>in place and fitting perfectly and the main spar bulkhead being pre
>punched. I'm guessing my panel is not positioned high enough but there
>is no way to get it any higher. I did not have to widen the longeron
>cutouts at all and the panel would have to go up quite a bit to eat up
>the 1/8 inch on the side.
>
>Anybody have any ideas or insight?
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>Greg Puckett 80081
>Elizabeth, Colorado
>rv8er(at)concentric.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
I have lost the email address of the nation wide airport fuel prices.Can
someone help me?
Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
Goto http://fillupflyer.com and you should be able to find it. For instant,
daily updated, prices by region, goto http://www.wdia.com/ff/avgfuel.htm
Hope this helps,
Are
RV-8 Wings (Ailerons)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of BOBE.
Sent: May 15, 2001 6:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Prices
I have lost the email address of the nation wide airport fuel prices.Can
someone help me?
Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
Speaking of fuel prices.... was up in Oregon the other day, landed at
Cottage Grove, ( Just south of Eugene) ... 100LL was $1.99!!! As a contrast,
at Medford it was $2.85!
Walt RV-6A N79WH (412 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
Anyone have a single or two axis auto pilot for sale, or know of a auto
supplier? I am thinking of installing a wings leveler or better in my
RV9A and would like to do it while the bottom skins are off my new
wings. Any ideas or thoughts on the matter would be gratefully
received.
Chuck Weyant RV9A Started the fuselage yesterday!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Instrument panel gap??? |
Greg,
This problem seems to be common on RV-8's, you haven't screwed up. Just make
some tapered shims out of any old 1/8" aluminum, doesn't have to be aircraft
grade. I used a belt sander.
Bill RV-8 N48WD
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Puckett" <rv8er(at)concentric.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2001 12:09 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Instrument panel gap???
>
> Hello,
>
> I'm in the process of fitting my F-803 instrument panel. I've got a
> pretty big gap between the F-803B's and the top skin at the main
> longeron F-887 portion of the sub panel. The gap is a little over 1/8th
> inch at the longeron and tapers to no gap about 4 rivets up. Being that
> the 803C is pre punched to the 803B's I can't just adjust the space
> there.
>
> Has anyone else had this???
>
> The gap itself does not really worry me. I'm planning to just use
> different thickness spaces when riveting. I more concerned that my
> longerons are too far apart and something is going to bite me later. I
> can't see how this could be the case with the gear box upper Z supports
> in place and fitting perfectly and the main spar bulkhead being pre
> punched. I'm guessing my panel is not positioned high enough but there
> is no way to get it any higher. I did not have to widen the longeron
> cutouts at all and the panel would have to go up quite a bit to eat up
> the 1/8 inch on the side.
>
> Anybody have any ideas or insight?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Greg Puckett 80081
> Elizabeth, Colorado
> rv8er(at)concentric.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | rv6 sliding canopy frame |
A question: how much trimming is necessary of the aft top skin for the
canopy frame to clear without the guide pin & lower frame rubbing &
scraping the top skin? The plans show to trim to 1 1/2 inches forward
of f606 but it's unclear the radius & length at the bottom forward of
skin 6112. For those with the slider how did you work through this so
the canopy frame slides back without hitting the aft skin at the lower
sides? I'm a little afraid of trimming too much.
Dave Ford
RV6
beginning finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
Rvator97(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Speaking of fuel prices.... was up in Oregon the other day, landed at
> Cottage Grove, ( Just south of Eugene) ... 100LL was $1.99!!! As a contrast,
> at Medford it was $2.85!
>
> Walt RV-6A N79WH (412 hrs)
>
Walt
I was down in your area last Friday and Sat. I flew a friend down to Corona
to pick up an RV-4 he bought. Gas prices seemed to average about 2.45
everywhere in CA. Maybe we passed in the air. :)
Jerry Springer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv6 sliding canopy frame |
> A question: how much trimming is necessary of the aft top skin for
> the
> canopy frame to clear without the guide pin & lower frame rubbing &
> scraping the top skin? The plans show to trim to 1 1/2 inches
> forward
> of f606 but it's unclear the radius & length at the bottom forward
> of
> skin 6112.
I cut the top skin by setting he canopy frame on top and marking a line
2 1/2 to 3 inches behind it, following the curve. Then just re-curve
that down to the longeron. My skin stops 6 1/4 inches behind F604.
Some folks cut it straight, some curve it. Once the canopy is on with
skirts, you'll never really see this area again.
> For those with the slider how did you work through this
> so
> the canopy frame slides back without hitting the aft skin at the
> lower
> sides? I'm a little afraid of trimming too much.
Trim and fit, trim and fit. Get used too it.
:)
Email me and I'll send you photos of mine if you like. I don't have a
web site.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
| Subject: | Pneumatic Squeezer |
The search continues.
I'm looking for a pneumatic squeezer.
Must be able to squeeze at least 1/8" rivets.
Steve Hurlbut
Comox, BC
shurlbut(at)island.net
Rv-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rv6 sliding canopy frame |
In a message dated 5/15/01 6:02:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
dford(at)michweb.net writes:
<< A question: how much trimming is necessary of the aft top skin for the
canopy frame to clear without the guide pin & lower frame rubbing &
scraping the top skin? The plans show to trim to 1 1/2 inches forward
of f606 but it's unclear the radius & length at the bottom forward of
skin 6112. For those with the slider how did you work through this so
the canopy frame slides back without hitting the aft skin at the lower
sides? I'm a little afraid of trimming too much. >>
My opinion only, right now trim as little as you can, provided that you are
able to maneuver the frame in and out. Later, you can remove a little more
to get the frame and glass to slide fore and aft on the rail as you position
it. Ultimately, after you have placed the reinforcing arcs on the skin edges
and fitted the canopy rear skirts, you can remove the excess to allow a 1/2"
to 1" overlap.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 5/15/01 5:53:03 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
chuck(at)chuckdirect.com writes:
<< Anyone have a single or two axis auto pilot for sale, or know of a auto
supplier? I am thinking of installing a wings leveler or better in my
RV9A and would like to do it while the bottom skins are off my new
wings. >>
No need to do it this way. The units commonly used are easily retrofitted
either in the fuselage (under the seat) or at the wing tip.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
| Subject: | S A N J O S E visit 5/15 |
Hi,
I am in San Jose. I would like to visit an RV Project. I know it is short
notice, but perhaps it will work. If you would like to share ideas and shop
methods, please give me a call.
I can visit 5/15 or 5/16.
Call my mobile phone 503-720-1132.
I am building an RV6A. We are doing the final testing of the
electronics. See URL below.
Bob Haan
http://easystreet.com/~bhaan/
bhaan(at)easystreet.com
Portland, OR
RV6A 24461 Wiring the panel
________________________________________________________________________________
Got a call from the trucking company today. My -7 wing kit will be at my door
tommorow. Can't wait!!
Ken
#000710
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <tomvelvick(at)home.com> |
>
>Speaking of fuel prices.... was up in Oregon the other day, landed at
>Cottage Grove, ( Just south of Eugene) ... 100LL was $1.99!!! As a contrast,
>at Medford it was $2.85!
The fueling there is ran by Mark Clark. Nice guy and the A&P who did my
annual condition inspection. Says anyone is welcome to camp on the grass
there on the way to Arlington if you want.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
Peoria, AZ
N9233A rv-4
N188KJ rv-6a wiring panel
>Walt RV-6A N79WH (412 hrs)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com> |
| Subject: | rv6 sliding canopy frame |
A question: how much trimming is necessary of the aft top skin for the
canopy frame to clear without the guide pin & lower frame rubbing &
scraping the top skin? The plans show to trim to 1 1/2 inches forward
of f606 but it's unclear the radius & length at the bottom forward of
skin 6112. For those with the slider how did you work through this so
the canopy frame slides back without hitting the aft skin at the lower
sides? I'm a little afraid of trimming too much.
----
Dave,
I agree with the last message to you... Don't worry too much, 'cause once
the canopy is on you will never see this area much...and you have to make
the fairing to cover the area anyway.
I cut mine as suggested, about 2 1/2 inches aft of the canopy frame. This is
a good starting point. Mine also dragged the pins across the edge of the aft
skin, but I only had to trim about another inch in that area... therefore, I
ended up with a nice curve at the bottom part, and it looks very nice.
Bottom line, cut a bit, then (like everything else on this plane) measure,
fit, and cut a little bit more.
jim
Tampa
FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "john white" <jakeaire(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV6-List Digest: 2main wheel fairings & 3 gear leg fairings for |
sale
1) i spent a considerable amount for new fairings(the big ones)
2) -the small amount of increased speed, say 2 or 3 mph is probably
not worth all that work. that is the old ones are about as good as
the new!!!!
3) anyway the old ones are for sale -2 main wheel & 3 gearleg fairings, and
since they are constructed already- just screw them on. $
100.
contact jake on jakeaire(at)msn.com
"http://explorer.msn.com">http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
>
> Anyone have a single or two axis auto pilot for sale, or know of a auto
> supplier?
Ford, Chevy, BMW, Chrysler, etc.
I am thinking of installing a wings leveler or better in my
> RV9A and would like to do it while the bottom skins are off my new
> wings. Any ideas or thoughts on the matter would be gratefully
> received.
Why not leave the bottom skins clecoed until everything else is done? I
just riveted my last skins on, and I'm ready to paint now. Everything else
is done, and leaving them off made installing the A/P servo much easier, and
delays the expense until much later.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Dremel Flex Drive For Sale |
Hi,
I have an extra Dremel flexible extension shaft. It is new in the box
and has never been used. I bought an extra one by accident because I didn't
realize an extension shaft comes with the Dremel kit I bought. If you are
interested I will sell it for $15 plus shipping. E-mail me off list.
Ted
RV-4 (using my Dremel tool all the time)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lee Beale <leebeale(at)earthlink.net> |
stop these emails
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Alex Peterson
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2001 7:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Auto Pilot
>
> Anyone have a single or two axis auto pilot for sale, or know of a auto
> supplier?
Ford, Chevy, BMW, Chrysler, etc.
I am thinking of installing a wings leveler or better in my
> RV9A and would like to do it while the bottom skins are off my new
> wings. Any ideas or thoughts on the matter would be gratefully
> received.
Why not leave the bottom skins clecoed until everything else is done? I
just riveted my last skins on, and I'm ready to paint now. Everything else
is done, and leaving them off made installing the A/P servo much easier, and
delays the expense until much later.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lee Beale <leebeale(at)earthlink.net> |
stop sending these emails
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Thomas Velvick
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2001 7:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Prices
>
>Speaking of fuel prices.... was up in Oregon the other day, landed at
>Cottage Grove, ( Just south of Eugene) ... 100LL was $1.99!!! As a
contrast,
>at Medford it was $2.85!
The fueling there is ran by Mark Clark. Nice guy and the A&P who did my
annual condition inspection. Says anyone is welcome to camp on the grass
there on the way to Arlington if you want.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
Peoria, AZ
N9233A rv-4
N188KJ rv-6a wiring panel
>Walt RV-6A N79WH (412 hrs)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lee Beale <leebeale(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | rv6 sliding canopy frame |
stop sending these emails
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mike Thompson
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2001 6:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: rv6 sliding canopy frame
> A question: how much trimming is necessary of the aft top skin for
> the
> canopy frame to clear without the guide pin & lower frame rubbing &
> scraping the top skin? The plans show to trim to 1 1/2 inches
> forward
> of f606 but it's unclear the radius & length at the bottom forward
> of
> skin 6112.
I cut the top skin by setting he canopy frame on top and marking a line
2 1/2 to 3 inches behind it, following the curve. Then just re-curve
that down to the longeron. My skin stops 6 1/4 inches behind F604.
Some folks cut it straight, some curve it. Once the canopy is on with
skirts, you'll never really see this area again.
> For those with the slider how did you work through this
> so
> the canopy frame slides back without hitting the aft skin at the
> lower
> sides? I'm a little afraid of trimming too much.
Trim and fit, trim and fit. Get used too it.
:)
Email me and I'll send you photos of mine if you like. I don't have a
web site.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lee Beale <leebeale(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV6-List Digest: 2main wheel fairings & 3 gear leg |
fairings for sale
stop these emails
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of john white
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2001 7:34 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV6-List Digest: 2main wheel fairings & 3 gear leg
fairings for sale
1) i spent a considerable amount for new fairings(the big ones)
2) -the small amount of increased speed, say 2 or 3 mph is probably
not worth all that work. that is the old ones are about as good as
the new!!!!
3) anyway the old ones are for sale -2 main wheel & 3 gearleg fairings, and
since they are constructed already- just screw them on. $
100.
contact jake on jakeaire(at)msn.com
"http://explorer.msn.com">http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lee Beale <leebeale(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Pneumatic Squeezer |
stop sending these emails
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Steve Hurlbut
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2001 6:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: Pneumatic Squeezer
The search continues.
I'm looking for a pneumatic squeezer.
Must be able to squeeze at least 1/8" rivets.
Steve Hurlbut
Comox, BC
shurlbut(at)island.net
Rv-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lee Beale <leebeale(at)earthlink.net> |
stop sending these emails
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Vanremog(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2001 6:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Auto Pilot
In a message dated 5/15/01 5:53:03 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
chuck(at)chuckdirect.com writes:
<< Anyone have a single or two axis auto pilot for sale, or know of a auto
supplier? I am thinking of installing a wings leveler or better in my
RV9A and would like to do it while the bottom skins are off my new
wings. >>
No need to do it this way. The units commonly used are easily retrofitted
either in the fuselage (under the seat) or at the wing tip.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lee Beale <leebeale(at)earthlink.net> |
stop sending these emails
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chuck Weyant
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2001 5:58 PM
Subject: RV-List: Auto Pilot
Anyone have a single or two axis auto pilot for sale, or know of a auto
supplier? I am thinking of installing a wings leveler or better in my
RV9A and would like to do it while the bottom skins are off my new
wings. Any ideas or thoughts on the matter would be gratefully
received.
Chuck Weyant RV9A Started the fuselage yesterday!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lee Beale <leebeale(at)earthlink.net> |
stop sending these emails
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jerry Springer
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2001 6:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Prices
Rvator97(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Speaking of fuel prices.... was up in Oregon the other day, landed at
> Cottage Grove, ( Just south of Eugene) ... 100LL was $1.99!!! As a
contrast,
> at Medford it was $2.85!
>
> Walt RV-6A N79WH (412 hrs)
>
Walt
I was down in your area last Friday and Sat. I flew a friend down to Corona
to pick up an RV-4 he bought. Gas prices seemed to average about 2.45
everywhere in CA. Maybe we passed in the air. :)
Jerry Springer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | stop sending these emails |
In a message dated 5/15/01 10:05:34 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
leebeale(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
> stop sending these emails
>
>
Lee if you want off the list go into the matrix web site / RV list and cancel
your subscription that way. There's no need respond each e-mail you get and
post "stop sending these emails"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Don't miss the Tenth Annual Northwest RV Fly-In! |
Don't Miss the Tenth Annual Northwest RV Fly-In!
RVs! T-Shirts! RVs! Food! RVs! Flybys! RVs! Cameraderie! RVs!
Saturday June 16 2001, Scappoose, Oregon Airport (SPB)
Go to www.vanshomewing.org for all the details
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 2main wheel fairings & 3 gear leg fairings |
for sale
You need to read to stop these e-mails. No human reading these can do it
for you. Scroll down tot he bottom and follow the directions. You can do
it. remember you signed on, now sign off.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Beale" <leebeale(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2001 11:59 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV6-List Digest: 2main wheel fairings & 3 gear leg
fairings for sale
stop these emails
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of john white
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2001 7:34 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV6-List Digest: 2main wheel fairings & 3 gear leg
fairings for sale
1) i spent a considerable amount for new fairings(the big ones)
2) -the small amount of increased speed, say 2 or 3 mph is probably
not worth all that work. that is the old ones are about as good as
the new!!!!
3) anyway the old ones are for sale -2 main wheel & 3 gearleg fairings, and
since they are constructed already- just screw them on. $
100.
contact jake on jakeaire(at)msn.com
"http://explorer.msn.com">http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fred boss" <newrver(at)hotmail.com> |
I've deicded to rebuild my empennage for 2 reasons.
The work could be much better and now I feel confident.
But more importantly I'm not at all happy with the primer
I've used on internal parts and the interior of the skins.
I prepared the skins with Coleman fuel and used Zinc Chromate
Aluminum primer. I can remove the primer with a simple scratch
with my finger nail.
So please:
1. What is the best way to prepare the surface?
Alumiprep?
Scotch Brite pads?
Coleman fuel?
Etching?
2. What is the BEST primer?
I live near the ocean and want to protect this project the best
I possibly can.
I know the opinions are diverse but please help me out.
Thankx
Fred
newrver(at)hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Jantzi" <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
Listers,
After any years of development and hundreds of hours of flying, I have
completed version 8.21 of my steering link. It fits all RV's with the
standard full swivel tail wheel assembly and a version for other types is in
the works. The steering link cleans up the aft end considerably and allows
for nimble ground handling without using the brakes. Pictures of the
installation can be found at <http://www.iwantarocket.com>. The link will
fit Harmon/F1 Rockets as well.
Terry Jantzi
RV-6 C-GZRV
Kitchener ON
--
<http://www.iwantarocket.com>
<http://www.netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/> Home Page
<http://www.ontariorvators.org> VAFOW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
You mentioned coleman fluid, but did you scuff the surface with scotch pads
first?? I've had tremendous results with simply scuffing with scotch red
pads then a quick swipe with degreaser then a shot with rattle cans of
marhyde self etch primer. I've used vari-prime exclusively on the exterior
only as a base for top coating. The finish of the marhyde is not a chalky
"primer like" finish but almost a semi gloss. FWIW
Steven DiNieri
capsteve(at)wzrd.com
rvv6a p28a
So please:
1. What is the best way to prepare the surface?
Alumiprep?
Scotch Brite pads?
Coleman fuel?
Etching?
2. What is the BEST primer?
I live near the ocean and want to protect this project the best
I possibly can.
I know the opinions are diverse but please help me out.
Thankx
Fred
newrver(at)hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Internal Primer |
>2. What is the BEST primer?
> I live near the ocean and want to protect this project the best
> I possibly can.
>
>I know the opinions are diverse but please help me out.
>
>Thankx
>Fred
>newrver(at)hotmail.com
EaaaAGgHHH!!! Look out...this is the most hotly debated subject on this
list. Please check the archives for hundreds...maybe thousands of posts on
this subject.
Personally, I started with Dupont Variprime after scuffing the surface
lightly with a green Scotchbrite pad and a solvent wipedown. Later, I
changed to Marhyde and SEM primer, since they don't require any mixing. Just
pour and shoot.
Worked for me.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
206 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | seal pitot tube connectors??? |
I am in the process of plumbing in the pitot tube ram and static tubing in my
wing. Should I seal the joints of the connectors with something like
Loctite, RTV or proseal?
Kim Nicholas
RV9 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Internal Primer |
In a message dated 5/16/01 6:54:09 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
newrver(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
> I've deicded to rebuild my empennage for 2 reasons.
> The work could be much better and now I feel confident.
> But more importantly I'm not at all happy with the primer
> I've used on internal parts and the interior of the skins.
> I prepared the skins with Coleman fuel and used Zinc Chromate
> Aluminum primer. I can remove the primer with a simple scratch
> with my finger nail.
>
> So please:
>
> 1. What is the best way to prepare the surface?
> Alumiprep?
> Scotch Brite pads?
> Coleman fuel?
> Etching?
>
> 2. What is the BEST primer?
> I live near the ocean and want to protect this project the best
> I possibly can.
>
>
What is the best way to prepare the surface......
1. Scotch Brite the surface
2. Alumiprep (acid etch) to clean the aluminum
3. Alodine to kill the etch
4. Prime, you can use Dupont Vari prime / Zinc Chromate, Wash primer or a
number of good quality primers
5. Remember this is an airplane you don't have to apply a lot of primer to
protect the aluminum from corrosion
**Save the Coleman fuel for the next camping trip**
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Internal Primer |
While I know this could potentially open a opinion war, I have found that
the old tried and true method of Alumiprep applied with a scotchbrite pad
then alodine is the best method for prepping the aluminum. As to a primer,
IMHO a good epoxy primer is probably your best bet. As to which individual
company's primer to use it is probably best to ask some of the mechanics or
paint shop folks in your area. Personally I like PPG or Sherwin Williams.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "fred boss" <newrver(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Internal Primer
>Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 13:50:09 -0000
>
>
>I've deicded to rebuild my empennage for 2 reasons.
>The work could be much better and now I feel confident.
>But more importantly I'm not at all happy with the primer
>I've used on internal parts and the interior of the skins.
>I prepared the skins with Coleman fuel and used Zinc Chromate
>Aluminum primer. I can remove the primer with a simple scratch
>with my finger nail.
>
>So please:
>
>1. What is the best way to prepare the surface?
> Alumiprep?
> Scotch Brite pads?
> Coleman fuel?
> Etching?
>
>2. What is the BEST primer?
> I live near the ocean and want to protect this project the best
> I possibly can.
>
>I know the opinions are diverse but please help me out.
>
>Thankx
>Fred
>newrver(at)hotmail.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: seal pitot tube connectors??? |
Kim,
Initially I would recommend that you do none of the above. The connectors
normally seal themselves whether they are nylon or aluminum.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: Knicholas2(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: seal pitot tube connectors???
>Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 10:50:33 EDT
>
>
>I am in the process of plumbing in the pitot tube ram and static tubing in
>my
>wing. Should I seal the joints of the connectors with something like
>Loctite, RTV or proseal?
>
>Kim Nicholas
>RV9 wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
I went with SEM Self-etching gray primer after they banned Marhyde in
California.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Denk [mailto:akroguy(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 7:48 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Internal Primer
>2. What is the BEST primer?
> I live near the ocean and want to protect this
project the best
> I possibly can.
>
>I know the opinions are diverse but please help me out.
>
>Thankx
>Fred
>newrver(at)hotmail.com
EaaaAGgHHH!!! Look out...this is the most hotly debated
subject on this
list. Please check the archives for hundreds...maybe
thousands of posts on
this subject.
Personally, I started with Dupont Variprime after scuffing
the surface
lightly with a green Scotchbrite pad and a solvent wipedown.
Later, I
changed to Marhyde and SEM primer, since they don't require
any mixing. Just
pour and shoot.
Worked for me.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
206 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Instrument panel gap??? |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Puckett" <rv8er(at)concentric.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2001 12:09 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Instrument panel gap???
>
> Hello,
>
> I'm in the process of fitting my F-803 instrument panel. I've got a
> pretty big gap between the F-803B's and the top skin at the main
> longeron F-887 portion of the sub panel. The gap is a little over 1/8th
> inch at the longeron and tapers to no gap about 4 rivets up. Being that
> the 803C is pre punched to the 803B's I can't just adjust the space
> there.
>
Dont worry about it. Ive benn involved in 5 RV8 projects and they were all
that way.
2 of them were 1/2" too wide. I think the panels are made wrong. Everything
else
fit fine.Terry B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
Okay, then where do I find autopilots? I've looked thru Kitplanes, and
Sport Aviation with no luck. I've asked around the airport and none of the
guys here know where to go. I can't afford the PMA'd products --- I don't
think. I'm thinking there must me someone out there producing a nice
dependable product perfect for experimentals at a reasonable price.
As you probably can tell, I don't know much about autopilots. Don't know
how they work, how they install, or even if I can afford one. I do hear
pilots say they're glad they had one on that long trip though. And when the
nine is complete (a year from now I hope), we are going flying! My plan
(dream) is to tour this country and an autopilot sounds like a necessity.
Chuck Weyant --- RV9A Firewall
> No need to do it this way. The units commonly used are easily retrofitted
> either in the fuselage (under the seat) or at the wing tip.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Internal Primer |
I agree. SEM Self Etching primer is working for me quite well. I use
alchohol to degrease and can't see why everyone doesn't use it, and it won't
maim or kill you with toxic fumes --- SEM will though!
Chuck
> I went with SEM Self-etching gray primer after they banned Marhyde in
> California.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Carb Intake Snorkel And Brake Bleeder Pictures |
To anyone waiting for the pics of these . I finally Emailed the updated
(read painted) pictures of the carb air intake and brake bleeder bottle
to Paul Bessing yesterday. He should have them posted within a few days.
Thanks for your patience
Garry LeGare
RV6 Finishing "close"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Internal Primer |
Fred wrote:
> I prepared the skins with Coleman fuel and used Zinc Chromate
> Aluminum primer. I can remove the primer with a simple scratch
> with my finger nail.
DAMN!
What's done is done but for others - Coleman fuel contains **OIL**. Don't
clean with it.
FIX:
1 - Reprime after scuff up
2 - Wait for some corrosion before rebuilding
3 - Keep fingernails away from emp. :-)
4 - Keep on building and don't worry about it. Next year you may move to
the Mojave anyway.
5 - Redoing and redoing is okay for repeat offenders but first time builders
need to keep at it lest they fall by the wayside and never build an
airplane.
6 - If you dilly dally too much, fuel will be so expensive you won't be able
to fly anyway.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Now that I am flying I am ready to think about things like autopilots too.
I will get one that is simple and IFR capable. For VFR I would surely get a
Navaid wing leveler if I got one at all. For under $2000 you can probably
get one installed in a flying airplane. For IFR, I like the STEC at about
$3000 uninstalled. Of course, if you can build an RV you can do anything
including install a simple autopilot.
There are several capabilities of these gadgets:
1 - keep wings level
2 - hold a heading
3 - track a VOR - keep you on a radial to or from one
4 - hold a heading
and more that I can't afford.
Get flying first.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Internal Primer |
Chuck wrote:
>I use alchohol to degrease and can't see why everyone doesn't use it, and
it won't
> maim or kill you
I use aircraft quality alcohol - Jack Daniels Black Label! I put some on
the airplane too.
Seriously, is alcohol that good a degreaser? Be sure you aren't dissolving
the oils, spreading the oil-alcohol mix around and then letting it dry. Hot
water and non-corrosive detergents such as Woolite work well and can be used
in quantity enough to actually cause the oils to be carried away.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
So Hal, there is no real advantage to installing the autopilot/wingsleveler
prior to closing out the bottom wing panels? If so, that's good news since
money is a consideration and I'd like to purchase/install after I've been
flying provided the install will be no more difficult after wing completion.
Chuck
> Navaid wing leveler if I got one at all. For under $2000 you can probably
> get one installed in a flying airplane. For IFR, I like the STEC at about
> $3000 uninstalled. Of course, if you can build an RV you can do anything
> including install a simple autopilot.
> Get flying first.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
I am not Hal but I will reply anyway. I have seen these installed in three
places. One is under the seat area...the favorite for those retrofitting
completed aircraft. The other is in the wing near the inspection
plate....the favorite for those how have not riveted their wing skins on.
The third is in the outer bay of the wing using a long pushrod....another
option for those retrofitting completed airplanes.
Another consideration for autopilots is that the biggest help during IFR
work is altitude hold as these planes gain or loss altitude very quickly.
Ross
> So Hal, there is no real advantage to installing the
autopilot/wingsleveler
> prior to closing out the bottom wing panels? If so, that's good news
since
> money is a consideration and I'd like to purchase/install after I've been
> flying provided the install will be no more difficult after wing
completion.
>
> Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
Try
http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/
--- Chuck Weyant wrote:
>
> Okay, then where do I find autopilots? I've looked thru Kitplanes, and
> Sport Aviation with no luck. I've asked around the airport and none of the
> guys here know where to go. I can't afford the PMA'd products --- I don't
> think. I'm thinking there must me someone out there producing a nice
> dependable product perfect for experimentals at a reasonable price.
>
> As you probably can tell, I don't know much about autopilots. Don't know
> how they work, how they install, or even if I can afford one. I do hear
> pilots say they're glad they had one on that long trip though. And when the
> nine is complete (a year from now I hope), we are going flying! My plan
> (dream) is to tour this country and an autopilot sounds like a necessity.
>
> Chuck Weyant --- RV9A Firewall
>
> > No need to do it this way. The units commonly used are easily retrofitted
> > either in the fuselage (under the seat) or at the wing tip.
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Drilling holes in alum. skirt on RV-4 canopy |
Just thought I'd pass along what I did to transfer the holes from the
Plexiglas canopy to the aluminum skirt that goes around the canopy on my
RV-4. I was discussing this with another builder on the list and he said he
didn't go in the same sequence I did. I thought I was following Van's
procedures but who knows? So if you find yourself in the same predicament
as I was in, you can use this to get you out of it. Here's how I drilled my
holes from start to finish.
1. Clamp the bubble in place on the frame where I want it.
2. Use two drills, one with plexi bit, one with regular bit
3. Drill hole through plexi using plexi bit drill
4. Drill hole through alum. frame using regular bit drill
5. Cleco in place
6. Did this all the way around until bubble was cleco'd on.
7. Removed all the clecos on one side (start with the right ... unlike
me)
8. Take some painter's wide finishing tape (the type used to mask off
windows and such) and mask off the bottom edge of the canopy.
9. Poke holes in the tape where your already drilled holes are
10. Make a transfer line an inch above the holes
11. Draw lines down through your transfer line down through the middle
of your holes on the tape.
12. Fit your alum side skins and make another transfer line down an inch
from your canopy transfer line
13. Align your metal ruler with the vertical lines you drew on the tape
and continue them down across your alum skin to the transfer line you made.
14. You should now be able to drill through these transfer marks and
have the holes line up.
15. I drilled with the alum skins in place on the side of the canopy. I
used a metal ruler as a backing plate to keep the drill from drilling into
the plexi.
Almost all of the holes lined up pretty darn good except where I wasn't
careful about my measurements.
Well there it is. Take it or leave it.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Benson, Bradley" <bbenson(at)trane.com> |
At the risk of starting a flame war, I'd like to ask who on the list uses a
Navaid wing leveler during IFR? I know it's not approved, etc. but if
you're flying IFR and need to unfold/fold a chart, is it really less safe
than letting go of the stick?
Cheers,
Brad Benson
RV6AQB underway...
-----Original Message-----
From: kempthornes [mailto:kempthornes(at)home.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Auto Pilot
Now that I am flying I am ready to think about things like autopilots too.
I will get one that is simple and IFR capable. For VFR I would surely get a
Navaid wing leveler if I got one at all. For under $2000 you can probably
get one installed in a flying airplane. For IFR, I like the STEC at about
$3000 uninstalled. Of course, if you can build an RV you can do anything
including install a simple autopilot.
There are several capabilities of these gadgets:
1 - keep wings level
2 - hold a heading
3 - track a VOR - keep you on a radial to or from one
4 - hold a heading
and more that I can't afford.
Get flying first.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | A-950 control cable |
I am using an A-950 control cable with a threaded rod end and clevis
attached to my three lever throttle quadrant for carb heat. The only
problem is that I need a sturdy way to mount the A-950 to my bulkhead.
Van's cables are threaded and have two nuts that allow for easy bulkead
installation. The A-950 cable I have doesn't seem to have any way to mount
it. Any ideas?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Another consideration for autopilots is that the biggest help during IFR
>work is altitude hold as these planes gain or loss altitude very quickly.
>
>Ross
>
Although it can indeed gain or lose altitude quickly, in my own airplane
the wingleveler function is what I consider, by far, most important for
IFR. My airplane has good pitch stability and is capable of holding
altitude for a long time in smooth air. On the other hand roll stability
is neutral and it must be flown all the time in that axis. In other
words, if I take my hands of the stick and look away for a few seconds
when I look back the airplane will be at about the same altitude but will
likely be in a 30 degree bank.
Because of this I consider the Navaid Devices autopilot a great aid
during IFR flight. I know Navaid does not encourage this (CYA?) but not
turning it on would be about like not looking at the moving map on your
handheld GPS. Penalizing yourself to prove some kind of point? I
certainly know of no law that would be broken by turning on the Navaid
autopilot during IFR flight.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Gunn" <ggunn(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | RMD wingtip landing light installation |
Does anyone have any pictures of the RMD wing tip landing light
installation? Appreciate any comments.
Thank,
Gary Gunn
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
> My airplane has good pitch stability and is capable of holding
> altitude for a long time in smooth air.
I got my instrument rating out of the Reno Nevada Airport. Smooth air was
hard to come by.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | Re: Internal Primer |
One thing I have noticed while scuffing surfaces before cleaning/priming- if
you have fingerprints on the surface before using Scotchbrite pads, the oil in
the fingerprint will prevent the pads from doing much scuffing- now I wipe
lightly with naphtha (supposed to be the same as Coleman Fuel?!), then scuff,
wearing cotton gloves to prevent more fingerprints, them wipe once more with
naphtha. My Marhyde is sticking tenaciously!
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark
Steven DiNieri wrote:
>
> You mentioned coleman fluid, but did you scuff the surface with scotch pads
> first?? I've had tremendous results with simply scuffing with scotch red
> pads then a quick swipe with degreaser then a shot with rattle cans of
> marhyde self etch primer. I've used vari-prime exclusively on the exterior
> only as a base for top coating. The finish of the marhyde is not a chalky
> "primer like" finish but almost a semi gloss. FWIW
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Navaid Auto Pilot |
dear listers,
anyone have a current e-mail ot website address for Navaid. It seems the one
I have is outdated as it is the same link on Sam Bucannon's webpage.
Scott
Tampa
Rv6A finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid Auto Pilot |
The number is (423) 267-3311. I've always had MUCH better sucess with them when
I've called them on the phone.
Eric
In a message dated Wed, 16 May 2001 4:56:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
writes:
dear listers,
anyone have a current e-mail ot website address for Navaid. It seems the one
I have is outdated as it is the same link on Sam Bucannon's webpage.
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Internal Primer |
Mike, I hope your not talking about suffing INSIDES? I hope your are re:
preping for final paint. If its inside, contact me off list. Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Internal Primer |
I use Variprime and sticks great. If I understood correctly the skins have a
thin layer of a high % of aluminum to aid in corrosion protection. I would
not scuff!!!! Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Internal Primer |
The archives are loaded with info on this subject. You will see everyone has
an opinon and some are 180 degrees different.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
I'm just curious - why was Marhyde banned in California?
FWIW,
I also scuff with Scotchbrite, degrease with Naphta and then spray a light
coat with Marhyde - for the interior only. Exterior will be 2 part epoxy. I
used to clean all surfaces with MEK but stopped using it when I realized
that new aluminum isn't dirty enough to bother. MEK might be good for
cleaning surfaces that once was primed/painted though. Be careful using it!
Are
RV-8 Wings (Ailerons)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Van Artsdalen,
Scott
Sent: May 16, 2001 11:19 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Internal Primer
I went with SEM Self-etching gray primer after they banned Marhyde in
California.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Denk [mailto:akroguy(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 7:48 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Internal Primer
>2. What is the BEST primer?
> I live near the ocean and want to protect this
project the best
> I possibly can.
>
>I know the opinions are diverse but please help me out.
>
>Thankx
>Fred
>newrver(at)hotmail.com
EaaaAGgHHH!!! Look out...this is the most hotly debated
subject on this
list. Please check the archives for hundreds...maybe
thousands of posts on
this subject.
Personally, I started with Dupont Variprime after scuffing
the surface
lightly with a green Scotchbrite pad and a solvent wipedown.
Later, I
changed to Marhyde and SEM primer, since they don't require
any mixing. Just
pour and shoot.
Worked for me.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
206 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Discover Aviation Days |
Fellow Listers:
Just a reminder for RV pilots in the MN/WI area. This weekend is Discover
Aviation Days at Anoka County Airport in Blaine, MN (ANE). They are
featuring RV aircraft so I'm trying to spread the word. I'll be there
around 8:30 am Saturday with my RV-4 (N464EM). Free breakfast and a chance
to win a ride in the EAA's Ford Tri Motor.
Hope to see a RV crowd.
For details check out their website at
http://www.goldenwingsmuseum.com/DAD.html
Doug Weiler
pres, MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI. Rocky Mountain Instruments |
To all of you out there in List Land:
Recently I made the decision to purchase both of the Rocky mountain
Instruments, the uMonitor and the uEncoder.
To conserve cash I chose to buy the kits that they offer, this saved me US
$600.00 under the price of the pre-assembled units.
Keep in mind that I have had no experience with electronics at all! I didn't
know a resister from a ranglplaster.
I do however know how to use a soldering iron.
I asked for special shipping (into Canada) and received it with complete
satisfaction.
I received the units and set about building them both. I placed a few phone
calls to ask some simple questions and was given the best of attention each
time.
The Kits went together quickly due to the very high Quality of the
instructions and the components. After assembly I took a deep breath and
powered them up,.. They worked!!, both of them functioned as described.
Next I began to put the units through the tests in the manual. All went well
until I got to the standby battery test. I plugged the 12.Volt power into
the wrong socket, in this instance the map sensor, (definitely my own
foolishness) and poof the panel went blank and a stinky little smoke devil
was seen leaving the premises. Let me tell you, This! was not a smiley face
moment! For the rest of the evening I beat myself up, That sinking feeling
just would not go away.
The next morning I phoned Ron and told him what I had done. His response was
lightly matter of fact he said that he would send out two chips that with
luck would fix it. If not then I would have to send it back to be repaired.
The chips He sent brought back some life to the unit but it became obvious
that it had to go back. I packed it up and sent it off.
While it was gone I phoned and asked them to send me some extra Crimp
terminals. The local suppliers terminals are not quite the same.
After a shorter time than I expected the repaired unit came back..
I opened the packing list and found the repairs listed as warranty repair-
replace (CPU)., check/set all voltages, bench test unit, all functions...
OK. No charges were applied.
A few days later an envelope arrived with the Crimp terminals I had
requested. again no charge
All together The extra postal fees alone were quite noticeable!.
Now that! folks. is what I call customer service above and beyond the call
of duty.
So many good people out there and so few ways to say thanks. Again this year
at air shows etc. I'll happily pick up some of the trash that accidentally
falls outside of others attention.
My thanks to Ron and company, you really made my days better!
Thanks for listening Listers,
Jim in Kelowna
P.S.
RMI. can be found at http://rkymtn.com or phone(307) 864 9300
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | The Razers <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI. Rocky Mountain Instruments |
I have been using both RMI units in my 6A for 3.4 years and 325 hours.
Not one gripe and the units have never failed. When I build again I'll
use both units again.
chet razer, Miss Chiquita 320 hrs
jim jewell wrote:
>
>
> To all of you out there in List Land:
>
> Recently I made the decision to purchase both of the Rocky mountain
> Instruments, the uMonitor and the uEncoder.
> To conserve cash I chose to buy the kits that they offer, this saved me US
> $600.00 under the price of the pre-assembled units.
>
> Keep in mind that I have had no experience with electronics at all! I didn't
> know a resister from a ranglplaster.
> I do however know how to use a soldering iron.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com> |
Tail kit, wing kit, and fuselage kit.
Tail complete minus fiberglass, firewall, spars, and F-604 completed.
Everything primered inside. A&P IA built in Wichita Kansas. Must sale due to
buying nearly completed RV-4..
Can build to suit for you (help you that is). Asking $8500.00. Please
contact me online or offline at 316-721-5670 or 316-210-5670(cell) and ask
for Todd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 JIG FOR FREE!! |
RV-4 jig is yours for free. Pick up in Wichita Kansas.Contact me online or
offline at 316-721-5670 or 316-210-5670(cell) and ask for Todd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RMD wingtip landing light installation |
| From: | "Ronald Vandervort" <ronvandervort(at)earthlink.net> |
Gary Gunn,
I installed the RMD landing lights in my RV-6 after flying it a couple
of hundred hours. I am most pleased with the fit and finish of the
components and they also look and work great. A perfect flush fit all
around.
Ron Vandervort RV-6 430 hrs, Seattle area.
----------
>From: "Gary Gunn" <ggunn(at)uswest.net>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RMD wingtip landing light installation
>Date: Wed, May 16, 2001, 1:28 PM
>
>
> Does anyone have any pictures of the RMD wing tip landing light
> installation? Appreciate any comments.
>
> Thank,
>
> Gary Gunn
> RV-6
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rywessel(at)aol.com |
I am considering the purchase of 5-pt Camlock harnesses from Simson. Can
anyone tell me if you need the Y style shoulder harness or the V style (roll
bar) shoulder harness? This will be going into an RV-6A.
thanks,
Robin Wessel
Tigard, OR
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
"RV-List Digest (E-mail)"
| Subject: | PWIII ..... primer war III |
I use Stits Polyfiber epoxy primer from Wicks. page 231 of their 1999
catalog. You WILL NOT be able to scratch it off unless you use steel tools.
I am very happy with the results and the price is reasonable. I use it on
steel and aluminum.
Aluminum : clean off greasy fingerprints and tape residue, scrub until
slightly dull with scotchbrite, phosphoric acid wash (optional), scrub off
with a sponge and small amount of dish soap, then rinse well with clean
water, alodine (optional) and rinse again.
Steel: clean off grease and tape residue, bead blast, solvent wipe with
degreaser until clean.
I use a hobby type airbrush to spray angle aluminum, other small parts and
weldments. It does a great job, wastes little and is easy to use and clean.
A regular spray gun is fine for sheet parts.
Spray everything at once as soon as it comes out of the box. It will save
you time in the long run. Don't worry about touch ups unless you are
really, really, really anal.
Or you can surf over to www.caswellplating.com and buy yourself an aluminum
anodizing kit. You'll need a big, flat tank for those skins though!
Vince Frazier
Harmon Rocket II ... the fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
http://www.usi.edu/CHEM/FACULTY/vfrazier/page1.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat belt types |
Watch out for the weight. I bought some auto racing belts and they were
incredibly heavy.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: PWIII ..... primer war III |
In a message dated 5/17/01 9:04:20 AM Central Daylight Time, VFrazier(at)usi.edu
writes:
<< I use Stits Polyfiber epoxy primer from Wicks. page 231 of their 1999
catalog. You WILL NOT be able to scratch it off unless you use steel tools.
I am very happy with the results and the price is reasonable. I use it on
steel and aluminum. >>
Thats the same stuff I use and it is outstanding. It comes in white or
green. The white is an off white color and it really is almost bullet proof.
I slipped with a drill and it went across some primed aluminum. There
wasn't even a scratch in it. I put it on very light on the interior surfaces
of the wings and fuselage and it dries to a hard shell.
I liked it so I decided to use this for the final paint of the interior of my
cockpit area. My wife wanted it a little more gray so I called the Poly
Stits tech people and they said to take some to my local automotive paint
store have them put a small amount of their tinting agent (for urethane) in
it. I did and got just the color she wanted. I sprayed on 3 or 4 medium
coats and found that when put on this thick it dries to a sort of semi gloss
sheen which is perfect for a cockpit interior (no glare).
I don't have many pictures of the cockpit on my website yet but you can get
kind of a preview of what it will look like by going here:
http://enewton.addr.com/finish/instrument.html
and scrolling down to the picture of the panel installed in the plane.
just my not so humble opinion );>)
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (electrical stuff)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | Don't forget...RV fly-in, May 26 at 3EV |
> Guys,
>
> Don't forget the RV fly-in Saturday, May 26th, at Skylane airport just
> northwest of Evansville, Indiana. Lunch, flying contests, wild women.....
> all the usual fly-in stuff. Hope to see you all there. Should be a great
> time.
>
2400' turf, runways 36 and 18, fuel available.
Of course, you don't have to show up in your RV. You just gotta want to
show up in an RV!!!
> Vince Frazier
> 3965 Caborn Road
> Mount Vernon, IN 47620
> 812-985-7309 home
> 812-464-1839 work
> Harmon Rocket II ... the fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
> http://www.usi.edu/CHEM/FACULTY/vfrazier/page1.html
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid Auto Pilot |
It's working now.
Sam Buchanan
==============
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> dear listers,
> anyone have a current e-mail ot website address for Navaid. It seems the one
> I have is outdated as it is the same link on Sam Bucannon's webpage.
> Scott
> Tampa
> Rv6A finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Seat belt types |
In a message dated 5/16/01 11:12:53 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Rywessel(at)aol.com writes:
>
> I am considering the purchase of 5-pt Camlock harnesses from Simson. Can
> anyone tell me if you need the Y style shoulder harness or the V style
> (roll
> bar) shoulder harness? This will be going into an RV-6A.
>
> thanks,
>
> Robin Wessel
> Tigard, OR
> RV-6A
>
>
>
5-Point harness is about the best your going to get, I have the Simpson
5-point myself, but the camlock is a solid round chunk of metal that loves to
chip/dint interior aluminum & paint that's why the lever type might work
better in your airframe.
Tim Barnes
N39TB Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Internal Primer |
I think one thing that's getting lost in this discussion is that most of us
probably put too much emphasis on priming in the first place. There are a
lot of new guys continually coming on the list and I'd hate for them to get
the idea that if they don't prime all of the interior parts to the Nth
degree then their plane will corrode all to hell. Unless you live in a
particularly corrosive climate, it just ain't so. Especially if you hangar
your plane, which 95% or more of RV owners do.
Alclad aluminum has a layer of nearly pure aluminum on the top, so if you
keep the scratches to a minimum, you have pretty good corrosion protection
without any further steps.
I'm not saying its wrong to prime. Good corrosion protection is one of those
unseen marks of a quality airplane. Just trying to put some perspective on
it here -- the original poster mentioned that he wanted to rebuild his tail
MAINLY because of the poor priming job he did on it. IMHO that's not a good
enough reason to rebuild an empenage. Most of us are too anal about priming,
and I include myself and my etched/alodyned/boeing-epoxy primed plane in
this group!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~200 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny M. Dennison" <Denny(at)DennisonSoftware.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Internal Primer |
1. Wash with Castrol Super Clean and a scotch bright pad; rinse and dry.
2. Etch with Metal Prep No. 79 and a scotch bright pad; rinse and dry.
3. Add chromate coating with Alodine, rinse and dry OR spray metal
conversion wash primer (Sherwin Williams 484-684/120-789).
4. Spray corrosion resistant epoxy primer (Sherwin Williams
CM0483928/CM0120828).
These high solids materials are legal here in San Jose, California. The
result is rock solid. This primer base is compatible with Sherwin
Williams JetGlo/AcryGlo polyurethanes. JetGlo/AcryGlo are used on most
airliners and many corporate and military jets. This primer base plus
high solids AcryGlo produced a beautiful fininsh on my Baby Ace aluminum
cowling.
Regards,
Denny M. Dennison
building RV-8 empennage
flying Baby Ace Model D & Falcon 195 Hang glider
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
I was at the DSM FSDO this morning for a check ride, the word there was an
RV-6 went down last nite. Lost power, no serious injuries. No other
details.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Internal Primer |
yep, i've come around to the conclusion myself that a basic course of action
consisting of not scratching the Alclad, applying an oil/grease cleaner
followed by a simple application of Rustoleum's Professional High
Performance Enamel (found in large rattle cans at any Home Depot) is
probably more that adequate on interior pieces which aren't subject to a lot
of human contact (so I would not do this in the cockpit interior). I go one
step further by using Sherwin Williams GBP 988 self-etching primer out of
rattle cans that I can buy for < $6.00 a can from an auto paint supply store
before applying the Rustoleum on all the extruded parts and all parts that
rub directly onto other parts such as where rib flanges get riveted to Al
sheets or spars. That coupled with the Alclad surfaces should hold up well
enough even in corrosive environments. NO spray gun expense/mess/clean up
downtime so far.
I lived for 18 years overseas in the Azores Islands out in the middle of the
Atlantic Ocean. Sideways rain in the winter. NEVER a good hair day thanks
to the year around high humidity. You can scrape your car's windshield
daily for your dinner salt. As corrosive a place as you'll find anywhere
people live - much more so than the Satellite Beach Florida area where I
also once lived. Any environmental barrier that remains intact will do an
amazing job - even lowly Rustoleum. The key isn't what kind of primer/paint
you put on as much as how well you prep it before you apply it so it will
stay on cycle after cycle. The fact that most of these parts we've been
discussing in this thread are internal (next to no direct UV caused damage)
and because you will hopefully supply drainage in low lying areas you should
be all right for a couple of airplane lifetimes. My Dad was in charge of
the electrical and metal shop for the aircraft there for many years and I've
heard this all before.
I will do the 2 part epoxy route when I get to the high traffic internal
areas and spend the big bucks and time investment on the external surfaces.
But I don't loose sleep anymore over the empennage/wing areas.
Lucky
8 Wings
>From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Internal Primer
>Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 08:55:19 -0700
>
>
>I think one thing that's getting lost in this discussion is that most of us
>probably put too much emphasis on priming in the first place. There are a
>lot of new guys continually coming on the list and I'd hate for them to get
>the idea that if they don't prime all of the interior parts to the Nth
>degree then their plane will corrode all to hell. Unless you live in a
>particularly corrosive climate, it just ain't so. Especially if you hangar
>your plane, which 95% or more of RV owners do.
>
>Alclad aluminum has a layer of nearly pure aluminum on the top, so if you
>keep the scratches to a minimum, you have pretty good corrosion protection
>without any further steps.
>
>I'm not saying its wrong to prime. Good corrosion protection is one of
>those
>unseen marks of a quality airplane. Just trying to put some perspective on
>it here -- the original poster mentioned that he wanted to rebuild his tail
>MAINLY because of the poor priming job he did on it. IMHO that's not a good
>enough reason to rebuild an empenage. Most of us are too anal about
>priming,
>and I include myself and my etched/alodyned/boeing-epoxy primed plane in
>this group!
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~200 hrs)
>Portland, OR
>http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
LOCAL NEWS ON RV6 CRASH
Two hurt in plane crash near Muscatine
Posted at 10:15 on 05/17/2001Two people suffered minor injuries in a small
single-engine plane crash Wednesday night near the Muscatine airport.
Pilot Jim Hughes told officials that his plane lost power while he was
attempting to land. The plane fell 600 feet and landed on its top in a field
one-fourth of a mile south of the airport around 6 p.m.
Hughes and passenger Carol Hughes were taken to Unity Hospital. Jim Hughes
was treated for minor injuries and released. Carol Hughes was in good
condition Thursday.
- The Associated Press
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Internal Primer |
Well said, Randall.
Just in case the new builders need to have the waters muddied more, here
is my rant concerning priming:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/priming.html
Just doing my part to keep the eternal priming flame burning....... :-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 Classic, still uncorroded)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
=================
Randall Henderson wrote:
>
>
> I think one thing that's getting lost in this discussion is that most of us
> probably put too much emphasis on priming in the first place. There are a
> lot of new guys continually coming on the list and I'd hate for them to get
> the idea that if they don't prime all of the interior parts to the Nth
> degree then their plane will corrode all to hell. Unless you live in a
> particularly corrosive climate, it just ain't so. Especially if you hangar
> your plane, which 95% or more of RV owners do.
>
> Alclad aluminum has a layer of nearly pure aluminum on the top, so if you
> keep the scratches to a minimum, you have pretty good corrosion protection
> without any further steps.
>
> I'm not saying its wrong to prime. Good corrosion protection is one of those
> unseen marks of a quality airplane. Just trying to put some perspective on
> it here -- the original poster mentioned that he wanted to rebuild his tail
> MAINLY because of the poor priming job he did on it. IMHO that's not a good
> enough reason to rebuild an empenage. Most of us are too anal about priming,
> and I include myself and my etched/alodyned/boeing-epoxy primed plane in
> this group!
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~200 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PWIII ..... primer war III |
Anyone using this system? How would parts anodized with this compare to
professionally done parts, such as the Phlogiston (sp?) spars?
Jeff Point
-6 wings
Milwaukee WI
"Frazier, Vincent A" wrote:
> Or you can surf over to www.caswellplating.com and buy yourself an aluminum
> anodizing kit. You'll need a big, flat tank for those skins though!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
> At the risk of starting a flame war, I'd like to ask who on the list
> uses a Navaid wing leveler during IFR?
I do
> I know it's not approved, etc.
Mine is approved. I approve of the use of my Navaid each time I
decide to use it. ;<)
It's not *TSO'd*, but it doesn't have to be.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 05/17/2001 4:29:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bertrv6(at)yahoo.com writes:
>
> Hi:
>
> I read some time ago, cannot remember where,
> that there is now a Nav Antena , which would fit
> perfectly on the tip of the V.S.
>
Hi All,
The V.S. antenna is a COM antenna from Sportcraft Antenna's. It needs a
fairing designed for this location.
The Sportcraft NAV antenna mounts inside the RV wingtips.
No drag.
IMHO, There isn't a better designed NAV antenna available.
Jim Ayers
LessDragProd(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <glassman(at)tns.net> |
| Subject: | Continental engines. |
Continental engines for RVs?
I noticed with some interest the sale on e-bay of a Continental O-300
for $4,000. I have never heard of any RV using Continentals. They seem
substantially cheaper than the much sought after Lycomings. and would
seem a better non Lycoming choice than some of the auto conversions.
Has anyone heard of a Continental installation or tried it themselves
and what are the snags?
Rob W M Shipley glassman(at)tns.net
RV9A wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Continental engines. |
In a message dated 5/17/01 7:54:31 PM, glassman(at)tns.net writes:
>Continental engines for RVs?
>I noticed with some interest the sale on e-bay of a Continental O-300
>for $4,000. I have never heard of any RV using Continentals. They seem
>substantially cheaper than the much sought after Lycomings. and would
>seem a better non Lycoming choice than some of the auto conversions.
>Has anyone heard of a Continental installation or tried it themselves
>and what are the snags?
>Rob W M Shipley glassman(at)tns.net
>RV9A wings
Hi Rob, I think the cost of fabbing your own engine mount and fabbing or
modifying the cowling would offset the cost savings considerably.
Kevin in WA
-9A FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | A bad day in the workshop... |
Long rambling - please press delete now. Could be useful to new builders
though so I will archive. I paid my dues for Matt Dralle to keep buying hard
drives :)
Well, here I am about 720 hr's, 718.9 to be exact into my RV-8 project and
_still_ learning from my mistakes. I have so far completed the entire
empennage minus fibreglass tips and one of my wings plus the skeleton of the
other wing.
Fuel tank was not a big problem but admittingly a bit tedious at times. The
goop (Pro-Seal)? Well, not that bad! I now have what I like to think about
as a 'new aircraft smell' in my workshop. It only smells like a good ole
fart until it gets mixed. After that it doesn't smell bad at all.
Slowly but surely my project has transformed from being a crate 'o parts
into an aircraft missing some parts - well, actually a lot of parts but to
me it starts to look like something that will fly some day.
I spent the past 4 days and 12.3 hours building ailerons. All this time was
spent mostly matching and drilling already prepunched parts together,
deburring all the holes (yes, both sides), dimpling all the holes and then
finally scuff, clean thoroughly and prime. I sure notice I'm getting older
after an hour on my knees on the floor with the c-frame dimpling tool! I
takes me a good 5-10 minutes to lubricate my joints again after I stand up.
A pair of them dar knee pads would be handy but an expired pillow is doing
the trick for now.
3 days later I stood back and admired a job well done. Dimples in the .020
aileron skins were perfect. No little dents around the holes and I used my
el-cheapo electric screwdriver with a deburring bit on each dimple just a
revolution or two to ensure perfect fit of the rivets. I even went over my
back rivet plate with a sander to ensure a smooth and even surface. So far
so good...
Day 4: After I came home from work I thought I do the dreaded bend of the
trailing edge. It's not really a difficult task but one can easily ruin a
perfectly good aileron/elevator or rudder skin if not careful and soft with
hands yet you have to use brute force to squeeze and crunch your hard work -
intentionally.
After 4 or 5 tries the bend was complete. I placed the spar in the opening
of the aileron skin and watched the top of the skin resting loosely on top
of it. Perfect! I used my 12" steel rule and went through the entire surface
to find it only needed a slight hand-tweaking a couple of places to be to
spec. These ailerons are not going to 'snatch ' or 'float'! Next I clecoed
the spar to the skin to get a picture for my files. As I did this I could
hear the awful sound of loud oil canning. Gasp! What could have went wrong?
Almost as an instinct I checked the archives for previous experience from
other builders but the consensus was that there shouldn't be any if
everything was done right. What could I have done wrong? 3 panels on the top
of both ailerons were bad while the bottom was as tight as a drum?!? I went
over the trailing edge many times and double checked the consistency of the
bend. It looked fine. After 2 hours of friggin' around I observed that both
ailerons had oil canning on the exact same side and exact same panels,
weird! After further investigation I found that the trailing edge has an
ever so slight bow to it - this is getting goofy... At that stage I decided
to order new skins and stiffeners from Van's but was afraid to do the same
thing again - especially since I did it twice, in only a couple of days! The
culprit had to be found!
The only common denominator except myself was my brake. Could it be the
brake? Nah... I used it on both of my elevators, my rudder and trim tab. It
worked fine then. I made it by ripping a 2x8 into two 2x4's and put hinges
between them and made sure to space the 2x4's 1/8" apart so I wouldn't
accidentally squeeze the control surfaces flat although I like to use a 1/8"
dowel for extra safety measures. But... looking closer I found that it had
warped ever so slightly over the winter. My ailerons are proof and a copy of
it. Who would have thought of that? Maybe other builders, but I was to
anxious in getting my ailerons completed that I never even thought of
inspecting the brake for trueness.
Oh well, so the damage is done. Can I use the ailerons as is? Well, yes.
They would work just fine. After all, I have seen other RV's at Oshkosh with
ailerons in even worse shape that made me think the plane would corkscrew
through the air. Yet, they fly just fine - and have for years. I could just
press on and deal with it later. But... they will create unnecessary drag,
besides to redo them later I need much more parts than I need now just
half-way through the construction. And even worse, they will go
"bop-bop-bop" every time another builder comes to my plane to see what
standards (s)he should aim for. My next brake will be sandwiched plywood and
dead straight. The so-called 'dry' wood these days aren't too dry and _will_
warp with time.
Another day in the RV workshop and another lesson; although valuable (and
costly), learned...
Regards,
Are
RV-8 Wings (Flaps tomorrow and until I get new aileron skins and stiffeners
from Van's) Come to think of it: Why did I have to do BOTH of them before I
realized it? Argh! :)
________________________________________________________________________________
"
\"Jeff Jasinsky\"" ,
"Bruce Beauchamp" ,
"Jeff Ludwig" ,
Guys, (long narrative coming)
N558RL now has 10.8 hours on it after putting 1.4 on it tonight. Since most
of my squawks are now under control I thought it would be a good time for
another report. First let's recap the squawks...
HIGH #3 CHT: Traced to an incorrect #3 sensor which is a two output type
for the LASAR system and E.I. gauge. Troubleshot by putting the #1 sensor in
#3 socket and temps were fine. Installed correct sensor ("K" version) sent
by Sue at Aero Sport Power and everything is fine. In fact CHTs run within a
40 degree range in the low 300s during cruise and the high 300s during
climb. I haven't seen 400 on any cylinder since about the third hour. It
does seem to be true that the CHTs settle right down with a few hours use.
LEFT WING HEAVY: Traced to the outboard left aileron being mounted 1/8" too
high. This doesn't sound like much, but those ailerons are very sensitive
and any change in them makes a big difference. It flies dead level now with
even fuel and having done no squeezing of the trailing edges.
BAD COMM ANTENNA: Poor radio transmit and reception on my brand new UPSAT
SL40 was traced to a partially shorted BNC connector at the antenna end.
Cut-off and replaced, works great.
BAD FUEL SENDER: Actually had two problems here. On the left side I had
inadvertently pinched the sender wire under a bolt resulting in a dead
short. Quickly found and fixed it. Then on the right side I discovered a
legitmately defective sender... it has abnormally high friction and took all
night to float up. Replaced, fuel gauge calibrated, working fine.
ELECTRIC GYROS NOT WORKING: Once I started to look over my panel a bit more
I discoverd that both my electric horizon and DG were not working properly.
The horizon would drift off indicating a right turn after about ten minutes,
and the DG would drift 30 degrees in ten minutes... not acceptable, and
especially not at that price! A call to Pacific Coast Avionics where I
bought them yielded a "sorry, your warranty has expired, and you're not
supposed to let them sit for 9 months like that. Sorry for not telling you
that. You'll have to send them back to get the flat spots on the bearings
fixed". Hmm. A call to Kelly Manufacturing who makes them was a bit more
positive. Shirley said to send them back and she'd see what she could do.
Even though the horizon now seems to be working I'd feel better if it was
checked so she agreed to do some sort of certification check and send the
paperwork back with it. They were both sent off 2nd day UPS yesterday and I
have no idea how much the tab will be.
ERRONEOUS FUEL FLOW READINGS WHEN FUEL PUMP ON: Again on closer scrutiny of
the panel and playing with the gauges I discovered that the Electronics
International FP-5 fuel flow analyzer would give an erroneously high flow
reading whenever the boost pump was on. Dave Campbell, their relatively new
tech support guy, was most helpful. He asked me to change a couple
programming parameters, which I did prior to flying tonight, and all is
well. There's a reason that E.I. stuff is expensive... it works, it's
accurate, and the company stands behind it.
LEFT TO DO: Other than the normal oil changes and maintenance, just the
upper gear leg intersection fairings need to be laid up and finished. My
ongoing to-do list is unbelieveably short, kind of spooky.
*** FLYING ***
Ok, let's get to the good stuff. Tonight I flew over the house where my
wife, daughter, dog, and neighbors were all out waving. I was at 1,200 ft
msl which is about 500 ft agl due to the hill we live on. I'm not sure who
was more amazed that the very machine that spent so long 500 feet down there
in that garage is now actually up here with no visible means of support.
Really weird, at least for me. My wife said it looked and sounded really
cool (right thing to say!).
The digital airspeed and altitude presentation of the MicroEncoder took some
getting used to, mostly the altitude for some reason. But I think I'm over
the hump now and they seem fine. I'm also getting more of a handle on
alitutde control which I had a problem with at first. For some reason I was
fairly on top of the airspeed right away, but altitude control took awhile.
Don't get me wrong, I have light years to go in learning to fly this plane,
but I'm not quite as all over the sky as I was.
Now if I could just learn how to land it! I've made two good landings: #1
and #10. The other 20 or so have all been variations on the bouncer theme.
I've done three go-rounds. Not because I necessarily needed to, just to make
sure I knew how, and more importantly, that I *would*. I'm trying to make
three pointers as I learned in my transition training, and I'm setting the
airplane down in more or less the right attitude, I just can't seem to get
it smooth. This may sound like an excuse, but the only two greasers I've had
were both on wind-less days, the rest have all had our typical spring
swirling winds. Still, I don't think winds are the sole reason, I just don't
have this completely figured out yet. I did six T&Gs in a row tonight with
no one around but didn't seem to improve. I think I need to find a long
runway and just practice flying it a foot above the runway.
My takeoffs on the other hand are getting better. While doing touch & goes
tonight I'd land, get the flaps up, screw the trim in quickly, push forward
stick a bit, and get back on the throttle a bit. I'd use only enough
throttle to get back up to 50-60 mph and hold it there, mains on the runway,
and just fly the tail for a while. This seemed like good practice and seems
to help get the feel for both the stick and the rudder. The treat comes when
you then feed in the remaining 3/4 throttle. Man, that thing just surges
forward... you can hear the constant speed prop struggling to control the
revs as that Lycoming picks up the pace. Since the plane is almost at flying
speed before you firewall it, it just leaps forward and up off the ground.
Remember when you drove your first fast car and put your foot in it? Same
deal. Makes you feel like a kid again.
On my way home I decided to see what it would do at low altitude. With an
OAT of 45 degrees I firewalled throttle/prop/mixture at 1,300 msl. Once
trimmed it stabilized at 217 mph IAS. Van's number for my 180 hp model is
214 mph, I assume TAS. This compares well, I'm a happy camper. I forgot to
check my GPS groundspeed, but there wasn't much wind tonight.
Before signing off let me mention that I've just done some updating to my
web site. On the Flying & Testing page (http://www.rv-8.com/Flying.htm) I've
listed some of the numbers testing has yielded, and on the Ideas & Products
page (http://www.rv-8.com/IdeasProducts.htm) I just posted pics of the
baggage door prop solution I came up with.
I can hardly believe that I will be *flying* to the Home Wing fly-in in June
rather than driving. Of course you're all coming to this great event, right?
(more info at www.vanshomewing.org) There's lots of other activities to
attend, and I'm even considering OSH. It's gonna be a great summer!
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, N558RL, 10.8 hrs
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Continental engines. |
It is a heavy, out of production engine. The horse power rating in
optimistic, with poor gas consumption that is very prone to carb icing.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob W M Shipley" <glassman(at)tns.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2001 9:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: Continental engines.
Continental engines for RVs?
I noticed with some interest the sale on e-bay of a Continental O-300
for $4,000. I have never heard of any RV using Continentals. They seem
substantially cheaper than the much sought after Lycomings. and would
seem a better non Lycoming choice than some of the auto conversions.
Has anyone heard of a Continental installation or tried it themselves
and what are the snags?
Rob W M Shipley glassman(at)tns.net
RV9A wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Continental engines. |
| From: | Shelby Smith <rvaitor(at)home.com> |
I believe Art Chard installed an IO 346(?) Cont. in his side by side RV.
These are also out of production although I think cylinders are available.
165HP.
--
Shelby Smith
rvaitor(at)home.com
RV6A - Landing Mounts Drilled - 200HP
N95EB - reserved
> From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 06:44:20 -0500
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Continental engines.
>
>
> It is a heavy, out of production engine. The horse power rating in
> optimistic, with poor gas consumption that is very prone to carb icing.
>
> Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rob W M Shipley" <glassman(at)tns.net>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2001 9:54 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Continental engines.
>
>
>
> Continental engines for RVs?
> I noticed with some interest the sale on e-bay of a Continental O-300
> for $4,000. I have never heard of any RV using Continentals. They seem
> substantially cheaper than the much sought after Lycomings. and would
> seem a better non Lycoming choice than some of the auto conversions.
> Has anyone heard of a Continental installation or tried it themselves
> and what are the snags?
> Rob W M Shipley glassman(at)tns.net
> RV9A wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
I use it all the time. But I keep an eye on it the same as I do in the
certified planes with expensive flight directors. It allows me to relax and
be the "copilot".
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 10.8 hr report |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Guys, (long narrative coming)
>
Randy,
Thank you for the great reports.
>
>The digital airspeed and altitude presentation of the MicroEncoder took some
>getting used to, mostly the altitude for some reason. But I think I'm over
>the hump now and they seem fine. I'm also getting more of a handle on
>alitutde control which I had a problem with at first. For some reason I was
>fairly on top of the airspeed right away, but altitude control took awhile.
>Don't get me wrong, I have light years to go in learning to fly this plane,
>but I'm not quite as all over the sky as I was.
I have an old fashioned analog altimeter that works poorly. This is a
replacement for my first altimeter, of a different brand, that also
worked poorly. Because of these problems I have to use my Microencoder
readout for the altimeter most of the time. I detest it, and I have
hundreds of hours of practice. Some people seem to be able to do it but
I will never be able to use a digital readout near as easily as a hand.
Every time you glance at the display you must make a mental calculation.
Is that number greater than or less than the desired number. Once you
get the direction of error you must make a mental subtraction and then
decide how to correct. With the analog altimeter you just glance at the
hand, no calculations necessary.
I know many people, and the Van's factory, use all digital readouts, and
don't complain much. Me, I complain a lot.
>
>Now if I could just learn how to land it! I've made two good landings: #1
>and #10. The other 20 or so have all been variations on the bouncer theme.
>I've done three go-rounds. Not because I necessarily needed to, just to make
>sure I knew how, and more importantly, that I *would*. I'm trying to make
>three pointers as I learned in my transition training, and I'm setting the
>airplane down in more or less the right attitude, I just can't seem to get
>it smooth. This may sound like an excuse, but the only two greasers I've had
>were both on wind-less days, the rest have all had our typical spring
>swirling winds. Still, I don't think winds are the sole reason, I just don't
>have this completely figured out yet. I did six T&Gs in a row tonight with
>no one around but didn't seem to improve. I think I need to find a long
>runway and just practice flying it a foot above the runway.
I think some of the learning here may be to learn to accept a somewhat
lower standard. In my opinion the RV taildraggers are fairly challenging
to grease on every time. They are not hard to land, just hard to land
real real smooth every time. Myself, I have streaks of many greasers in
a row, than streaks where it seems like I'm not doing anything really
wrong but the landings are not that satisfying, like maybe the tailwheel
will bounce a few times after a seemingly good landing. About one
landing out of thirty is just bad. I particularly remember one when
giving a demo ride to Steve Judd. Trying to impress, only to make a
stinker. Oh well!
Mostly, I try to just relax about it, and completely ignore what my rider
says. I don't judge my piloting ability by the smoothness of the landing
and if they do, well, that's their opinion, and I don't agree.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PeterHunt1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Rudder skin repair |
Ouch! Ouch!
I accidentally creased my rudder skin while installing stiffeners. I worked
the one-inch long crease out with my fingers until it was hardly noticeable.
But then I laid it on my back riveting plate thinking I could hammer the rest
of the crease out. Instead, I stretched the skin slightly. Now this
stretched area, about the size of a quarter, can be popped in and out about
1/16 th of an inch with slight finger pressure. (1) I can add a three-inch
stiffener to eliminate this oil canning, but this means three rivets where
there shouldn't be any. (2) I can glue a strip of aluminum on the inside of
the skin, but precisely what glue should I use. (3) I can let it go until
finish painting and fill the ever so slight indentation with body filler.
Any suggestions?
Pete - RV-6
Completing empennage
Clearwater, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John & Teresa Huft" <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com> |
Randy and Larry and all
I have flown about 20 different taildraggers now, including 1200 hours in
C-180s, and I am right where you guys are with landings.
The test of the copilot/passenger is to say "nice landing" while they are
still searching for their back teeth. ( My wife likes to say "OK, now you're
current" after three bounces).
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Pardue
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2001 9:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 10.8 hr report
>
>
>Guys, (long narrative coming)
>
Randy,
Thank you for the great reports.
>
>The digital airspeed and altitude presentation of the MicroEncoder took
some
>getting used to, mostly the altitude for some reason. But I think I'm over
>the hump now and they seem fine. I'm also getting more of a handle on
>alitutde control which I had a problem with at first. For some reason I was
>fairly on top of the airspeed right away, but altitude control took awhile.
>Don't get me wrong, I have light years to go in learning to fly this plane,
>but I'm not quite as all over the sky as I was.
I have an old fashioned analog altimeter that works poorly. This is a
replacement for my first altimeter, of a different brand, that also
worked poorly. Because of these problems I have to use my Microencoder
readout for the altimeter most of the time. I detest it, and I have
hundreds of hours of practice. Some people seem to be able to do it but
I will never be able to use a digital readout near as easily as a hand.
Every time you glance at the display you must make a mental calculation.
Is that number greater than or less than the desired number. Once you
get the direction of error you must make a mental subtraction and then
decide how to correct. With the analog altimeter you just glance at the
hand, no calculations necessary.
I know many people, and the Van's factory, use all digital readouts, and
don't complain much. Me, I complain a lot.
>
>Now if I could just learn how to land it! I've made two good landings: #1
>and #10. The other 20 or so have all been variations on the bouncer theme.
>I've done three go-rounds. Not because I necessarily needed to, just to
make
>sure I knew how, and more importantly, that I *would*. I'm trying to make
>three pointers as I learned in my transition training, and I'm setting the
>airplane down in more or less the right attitude, I just can't seem to get
>it smooth. This may sound like an excuse, but the only two greasers I've
had
>were both on wind-less days, the rest have all had our typical spring
>swirling winds. Still, I don't think winds are the sole reason, I just
don't
>have this completely figured out yet. I did six T&Gs in a row tonight with
>no one around but didn't seem to improve. I think I need to find a long
>runway and just practice flying it a foot above the runway.
I think some of the learning here may be to learn to accept a somewhat
lower standard. In my opinion the RV taildraggers are fairly challenging
to grease on every time. They are not hard to land, just hard to land
real real smooth every time. Myself, I have streaks of many greasers in
a row, than streaks where it seems like I'm not doing anything really
wrong but the landings are not that satisfying, like maybe the tailwheel
will bounce a few times after a seemingly good landing. About one
landing out of thirty is just bad. I particularly remember one when
giving a demo ride to Steve Judd. Trying to impress, only to make a
stinker. Oh well!
Mostly, I try to just relax about it, and completely ignore what my rider
says. I don't judge my piloting ability by the smoothness of the landing
and if they do, well, that's their opinion, and I don't agree.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 10.8 hr report |
Randy,
Ditto, it's reports like this by builders and now flyers like yourself that make
the list worthwhile.
Thanks.
Garry
Larry Pardue wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >Guys, (long narrative coming)
> >
>
> Randy,
>
> Thank you for the great reports.
>
> >
> >The digital airspeed and altitude presentation of the MicroEncoder took some
> >getting used to, mostly the altitude for some reason. But I think I'm over
> >the hump now and they seem fine. I'm also getting more of a handle on
> >alitutde control which I had a problem with at first. For some reason I was
> >fairly on top of the airspeed right away, but altitude control took awhile.
> >Don't get me wrong, I have light years to go in learning to fly this plane,
> >but I'm not quite as all over the sky as I was.
>
> I have an old fashioned analog altimeter that works poorly. This is a
> replacement for my first altimeter, of a different brand, that also
> worked poorly. Because of these problems I have to use my Microencoder
> readout for the altimeter most of the time. I detest it, and I have
> hundreds of hours of practice. Some people seem to be able to do it but
> I will never be able to use a digital readout near as easily as a hand.
> Every time you glance at the display you must make a mental calculation.
> Is that number greater than or less than the desired number. Once you
> get the direction of error you must make a mental subtraction and then
> decide how to correct. With the analog altimeter you just glance at the
> hand, no calculations necessary.
>
> I know many people, and the Van's factory, use all digital readouts, and
> don't complain much. Me, I complain a lot.
>
> >
> >Now if I could just learn how to land it! I've made two good landings: #1
> >and #10. The other 20 or so have all been variations on the bouncer theme.
> >I've done three go-rounds. Not because I necessarily needed to, just to make
> >sure I knew how, and more importantly, that I *would*. I'm trying to make
> >three pointers as I learned in my transition training, and I'm setting the
> >airplane down in more or less the right attitude, I just can't seem to get
> >it smooth. This may sound like an excuse, but the only two greasers I've had
> >were both on wind-less days, the rest have all had our typical spring
> >swirling winds. Still, I don't think winds are the sole reason, I just don't
> >have this completely figured out yet. I did six T&Gs in a row tonight with
> >no one around but didn't seem to improve. I think I need to find a long
> >runway and just practice flying it a foot above the runway.
>
> I think some of the learning here may be to learn to accept a somewhat
> lower standard. In my opinion the RV taildraggers are fairly challenging
> to grease on every time. They are not hard to land, just hard to land
> real real smooth every time. Myself, I have streaks of many greasers in
> a row, than streaks where it seems like I'm not doing anything really
> wrong but the landings are not that satisfying, like maybe the tailwheel
> will bounce a few times after a seemingly good landing. About one
> landing out of thirty is just bad. I particularly remember one when
> giving a demo ride to Steve Judd. Trying to impress, only to make a
> stinker. Oh well!
>
> Mostly, I try to just relax about it, and completely ignore what my rider
> says. I don't judge my piloting ability by the smoothness of the landing
> and if they do, well, that's their opinion, and I don't agree.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder skin repair |
----- Original Message -----
From: <PeterHunt1(at)aol.com>
> Ouch! Ouch!
>
> I accidentally creased my rudder skin while installing stiffeners
> Any suggestions?
Yeah... move on, you'll make worse boo boos in the future (god knows I
have). Save your stress, worries, brain power, money, etc... for them.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 10.8 hr report |
>
>I have an old fashioned analog altimeter that works poorly. This is a
>replacement for my first altimeter, of a different brand, that also
>worked poorly. Because of these problems I have to use my Microencoder
>readout for the altimeter most of the time. I detest it, and I have
>hundreds of hours of practice. Some people seem to be able to do it but
>I will never be able to use a digital readout near as easily as a hand.
>Every time you glance at the display you must make a mental calculation.
>Is that number greater than or less than the desired number. Once you
>get the direction of error you must make a mental subtraction and then
>decide how to correct. With the analog altimeter you just glance at the
>hand, no calculations necessary.
>
>I know many people, and the Van's factory, use all digital readouts, and
>don't complain much. Me, I complain a lot.
I'm also of the old-school..even though I'm not NEARLY as old as ole Larry.
;) I find that scanning a bank of analog gauges is so much easier than
interpreting a numeric value. If the needles are pointing in the usual
direction, then all is well. Although, a nice compromise seems to be the
digital bar graph type engine analyzers. You can see a numeric value as
well as a graphical representation.
I'm also not sure how I would handle a numeric altitude and airspeed display
for getting out of IMC or unusual attitudes. It seems that it would take
more time to note just how fast those numbers are changing and if they are
increasing or decreasing in value. I can tell immediately in what direction
at at what rate the needles are moving.
Still, if Randy can make this work well for him and save some panel space,
then by all means go for it buddy! I just love experimental...we get to
freely choose how we want to fly and by what means our panels tell us what's
going on with our airplanes.
>
> >
>
>I think some of the learning here may be to learn to accept a somewhat
>lower standard. In my opinion the RV taildraggers are fairly challenging
>to grease on every time.
Agreed. I'm currently in the middle (or hopefully the END) of a bad streak
of landings. I must be missing something fundamental or just suffering a
bad case of cranial-rectalitis. I might be having a subconscious battle of
three-point vs. wheelie. I can usually wheel the -8 on very smoothly, but
three pointers are a battle. If I don't whack the tailwheel down
prematurely, I end up touching down mains first, then the tailwheel bounces
a few times. Feels like hell and certainly doesn't impress the back
seaters. Now that it's getting hot out here, the density altitude is
getting up there and ground speed on final approach is getting higher. It
seems like I'm smoking down the runway as if I'm landing an F-105 or
something! You guys down low got it made. All that nice, thick air to slow
you down. :)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
206 hrs and still trying to figure it out.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
Guys,
I am making my 303 hoses for fuel and oil lines.
I seem to remember that there was a special oil used during assembly.
I searched the archives but didn't find my answer.
Is there anybody out there who can help me??
Thanks in advance.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder skin repair |
Aluminum can be stretched as you did but it can also be shrunk.
A CBE method is to put a deep ding in the center of the stretched area and
fill it with aero-bondo stuff. (CBE - crude but effective) Is this a good
place for some fancy graphics?
> But then I laid it on my back riveting plate thinking I could hammer the
rest
> of the crease out. Instead, I stretched the skin slightly.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 10.8 hr report (digital airspeed/altitude presentation) |
> >I have an old fashioned analog altimeter that works poorly. This is a
> >replacement for my first altimeter, of a different brand, that also
> >worked poorly. Because of these problems I have to use my Microencoder
> >readout for the altimeter most of the time. I detest it, and I have
> >hundreds of hours of practice. Some people seem to be able to do it but
> >I will never be able to use a digital readout near as easily as a hand.
> >Every time you glance at the display you must make a mental calculation.
> >Is that number greater than or less than the desired number. Once you
> >get the direction of error you must make a mental subtraction and then
> >decide how to correct. With the analog altimeter you just glance at the
> >hand, no calculations necessary.
> >
> >I know many people, and the Van's factory, use all digital readouts, and
> >don't complain much. Me, I complain a lot.
>
> I'm also of the old-school..even though I'm not NEARLY as old as ole
Larry.
> ;) I find that scanning a bank of analog gauges is so much easier than
> interpreting a numeric value. If the needles are pointing in the usual
> direction, then all is well. Although, a nice compromise seems to be the
> digital bar graph type engine analyzers. You can see a numeric value as
> well as a graphical representation.
>
> I'm also not sure how I would handle a numeric altitude and airspeed
display
> for getting out of IMC or unusual attitudes. It seems that it would take
> more time to note just how fast those numbers are changing and if they are
> increasing or decreasing in value. I can tell immediately in what
direction
> at at what rate the needles are moving.
>
> Still, if Randy can make this work well for him and save some panel space,
> then by all means go for it buddy! I just love experimental...we get to
> freely choose how we want to fly and by what means our panels tell us
what's
> going on with our airplanes.
Anyone seen this new hybrid?
http://www.aircraftinstruments.com/AITI_Instruments.htm
This has me VERY interested -- might be the best of both worlds. I'd
appreciate hearing from anyone that has any experience with it.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, N558RL, 10.8 hrs
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Continental engines. / Thank you for AD help |
The up-side is that C172 drivers say that with 6 cylinders,
it's much smoother than an O-320. I have seen at least one
Bushby Mustang II flying with an O-300. (Good luck with
building RV motor mounts for it)
BTW, thanks to Cy & the others who responded to my request
for web sites with AD info. I've learned what I needed to
know.
Charlie
RV-4, sold :-(
Cy Galley wrote:
>
>
> It is a heavy, out of production engine. The horse power rating in
> optimistic, with poor gas consumption that is very prone to carb icing.
>
> Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rob W M Shipley" <glassman(at)tns.net>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2001 9:54 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Continental engines.
>
>
> Continental engines for RVs?
> I noticed with some interest the sale on e-bay of a Continental O-300
> for $4,000. I have never heard of any RV using Continentals. They seem
> substantially cheaper than the much sought after Lycomings. and would
> seem a better non Lycoming choice than some of the auto conversions.
> Has anyone heard of a Continental installation or tried it themselves
> and what are the snags?
> Rob W M Shipley glassman(at)tns.net
> RV9A wings.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Topic: RV-List: making hoses
Thread-Index: AcDfxDBvQnxFXNVrRyWtYS9ysVJiUAAABQ2g
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Hi Tom,
Earl's Performance Products makes an assembly lube you can get at your
local speed shop. Here in Indy where they have a retail store (near the
famous brickyard, of course) they gave me a free bottle and some cool
stickers for my toolbox when I picked up some fittings. I would be
inclined to substitute air-tool oil, which is pretty light if you
couldn't get the real stuff. An old-timer told me when making hoses,
turn the wrench continuously and don't stop while assembling them until
the fittings are tight; doing so will prevent bits of the rubber from
shearing off inside the hose.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder skin repair |
Pete,
How about combining ideas #1 and 3. You could rivet a short piece of angle
on then us filler to cover the rivets at finishing. Nobody will ever know
they are there then.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: PeterHunt1(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Rudder skin repair
>Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 12:04:05 EDT
>
>
>Ouch! Ouch!
>
>I accidentally creased my rudder skin while installing stiffeners. I
>worked
>the one-inch long crease out with my fingers until it was hardly
>noticeable.
>But then I laid it on my back riveting plate thinking I could hammer the
>rest
>of the crease out. Instead, I stretched the skin slightly. Now this
>stretched area, about the size of a quarter, can be popped in and out about
>1/16 th of an inch with slight finger pressure. (1) I can add a three-inch
>stiffener to eliminate this oil canning, but this means three rivets where
>there shouldn't be any. (2) I can glue a strip of aluminum on the inside
>of
>the skin, but precisely what glue should I use. (3) I can let it go until
>finish painting and fill the ever so slight indentation with body filler.
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>Pete - RV-6
>Completing empennage
>Clearwater, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder skin repair |
While on the subject of repairs......
1. How do you test (immediately after some damage, particularly around a
rivet areas...where you may or...may not have put a small smilie in the
near approximate skin area) to see that normal paint prep later, will
fix the problem?
2. Do you make these repairs to the bare aluminum using....Bondo? Epoxy
filled with ballons? Or do you wait till primer time and use automotive
glaze putties?
I was thinking of spreading something like peanut butter (creamy style)
over the rivet area with with a smooth plastic applicator to see how it
would look, but we have lots of squirrels in the area!!
My rivets (3/32ths type) are getting better now that I took the brass
regulator off my 3X gun and turned the pressure down to 25 pounds (when
trigger is ON). Should I have to go lower than that? Whe I try to go
lower, the regulator, near the tank, does not maintain a
consistant,trigger ON, pressure. It just dives down.
Last; I am beginnig to get consistantly good rivets, when working by
myself, when I have a way of holding the part still. i.e. Working on the
flaps of my NINE, the nose in the cradle, working from the wide end of
the ribs, heading towards the trailing edge... when near the cradle,
everything goes ok. But getting up near the trailing edge, with nothing
to support the work, with bucking bar on one side and gun on the other,
I have made boo boo's. Is there a trick...just wait for help?
I ask all of this, as I am about to head into the wing skins.
Your help is much appreciated.
Barry POte
RV9a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com> |
| Subject: | 10.8 hr report (digital airspeed/altitude presentation) |
Listers, I want to jump into this digital instrument discussion. There are a
lot of cool things for us experimentalists!
I saw a new product at Sun-n-Fun which I've decided to put into my plane.
Its the I-K Technolgies IK2000. I was planning on putting in the VM1000,
but I'm going with this instead. Nice people, new and *cool* product. Does
everything the VM1000 does, and a half-dozen more... for $1000 less.
http://www.i-ktechnologies.com/
jim
Tampa
FWF
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Anyone seen this new hybrid?
http://www.aircraftinstruments.com/AITI_Instruments.htm
This has me VERY interested -- might be the best of both worlds. I'd
appreciate hearing from anyone that has any experience with it.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, N558RL, 10.8 hrs
www.rv-8.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>..
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| Subject: | Re: 10.8 hr report (digital airspeed/altitude presentation) |
jim
they must not be too proud of thier equipment, not putting pictures on thier
website.
scott
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| From: | Steve Judd <sjudd(at)ffd2.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 10.8 hr report |
Hola Larry,
On Fri, 18 May 2001, Larry Pardue wrote:
>
> landing out of thirty is just bad. I particularly remember one when
> giving a demo ride to Steve Judd. Trying to impress, only to make a
> stinker. Oh well!
Still turned out to be a $30,000 free ride.
If you want to feel good about your landings, just fly with me a couple of
times. I set the standard, so to speak.
Of course, if you ever want more practice I could probably take a few more
demo rides!
-S
P.S. I -- a young digital-age high-tech guy -- vastly prefer analog
instrument readouts too, for what it's worth.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com> |
| Subject: | 10.8 hr report (digital airspeed/altitude presentation) |
Scott, et al,
They just re-made their web site... this week, and the pictures are gone. I
talked to them a few minutes ago and they will be putting the pics up there
ASAP.
Trust me, this is a cool set up.
jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2001 4:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 10.8 hr report (digital airspeed/altitude
presentation)
jim
they must not be too proud of thier equipment, not putting pictures on thier
website.
scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
i like chicken, i like liver, meow mix meow mix please deliver
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| From: | "John Sheppard" <jtshepp(at)lvnworth.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder skin repair |
Barry,
Are you using a "swivel rivet set" - makes all the difference in the world.
John Sheppard
RV8 - almost out of the fus jig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of barry pote
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2001 1:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder skin repair
While on the subject of repairs......
1. How do you test (immediately after some damage, particularly around a
rivet areas...where you may or...may not have put a small smilie in the
near approximate skin area) to see that normal paint prep later, will
fix the problem?
2. Do you make these repairs to the bare aluminum using....Bondo? Epoxy
filled with ballons? Or do you wait till primer time and use automotive
glaze putties?
I was thinking of spreading something like peanut butter (creamy style)
over the rivet area with with a smooth plastic applicator to see how it
would look, but we have lots of squirrels in the area!!
My rivets (3/32ths type) are getting better now that I took the brass
regulator off my 3X gun and turned the pressure down to 25 pounds (when
trigger is ON). Should I have to go lower than that? Whe I try to go
lower, the regulator, near the tank, does not maintain a
consistant,trigger ON, pressure. It just dives down.
Last; I am beginnig to get consistantly good rivets, when working by
myself, when I have a way of holding the part still. i.e. Working on the
flaps of my NINE, the nose in the cradle, working from the wide end of
the ribs, heading towards the trailing edge... when near the cradle,
everything goes ok. But getting up near the trailing edge, with nothing
to support the work, with bucking bar on one side and gun on the other,
I have made boo boo's. Is there a trick...just wait for help?
I ask all of this, as I am about to head into the wing skins.
Your help is much appreciated.
Barry POte
RV9a wings
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| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
May 09, 2001 - May 18, 2001
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ks