RV-Archive.digest.vol-kt
May 18, 2001 - May 24, 2001
| Subject: | Re: Rudder skin repair |
I have it and it was so bulky, that it was creating its own problems.
I have been having the best results with the rubber encircled one.
But most of my problems have come from trying to control the work piece.
When it is solid and not moving in the air, I get pretty good results.
Earlier problems, I believe, were caused by pushing too hard with the
gun, and bending stuff by pushing. Does 25 lbs sound right for a 3x gun
with 3 32ths rivets? White sport tape on the head of the mushroom has
helped hold things from moving around, also.
Barry
John Sheppard wrote:
>
>
> Barry,
>
> Are you using a "swivel rivet set" - makes all the difference in the world.
>
> John Sheppard
> RV8 - almost out of the fus jig
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of barry pote
> Sent: Friday, May 18, 2001 1:58 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder skin repair
>
>
> While on the subject of repairs......
>
> 1. How do you test (immediately after some damage, particularly around a
> rivet areas...where you may or...may not have put a small smilie in the
> near approximate skin area) to see that normal paint prep later, will
> fix the problem?
>
> 2. Do you make these repairs to the bare aluminum using....Bondo? Epoxy
> filled with ballons? Or do you wait till primer time and use automotive
> glaze putties?
>
> I was thinking of spreading something like peanut butter (creamy style)
> over the rivet area with with a smooth plastic applicator to see how it
> would look, but we have lots of squirrels in the area!!
>
> My rivets (3/32ths type) are getting better now that I took the brass
> regulator off my 3X gun and turned the pressure down to 25 pounds (when
> trigger is ON). Should I have to go lower than that? Whe I try to go
> lower, the regulator, near the tank, does not maintain a
> consistant,trigger ON, pressure. It just dives down.
>
> Last; I am beginnig to get consistantly good rivets, when working by
> myself, when I have a way of holding the part still. i.e. Working on the
> flaps of my NINE, the nose in the cradle, working from the wide end of
> the ribs, heading towards the trailing edge... when near the cradle,
> everything goes ok. But getting up near the trailing edge, with nothing
> to support the work, with bucking bar on one side and gun on the other,
> I have made boo boo's. Is there a trick...just wait for help?
>
> I ask all of this, as I am about to head into the wing skins.
>
> Your help is much appreciated.
> Barry POte
> RV9a wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: making hoses |
when all else fails I have used marvel mystery oil..seems to work...
Tom Gummo wrote:
>
> Guys,
> I am making my 303 hoses for fuel and oil lines.
> I seem to remember that there was a special oil used during assembly.
> I searched the archives but didn't find my answer.
> Is there anybody out there who can help me??
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Tom Gummo
> Apple Valley, CA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy" <skydog-8(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 10.8 hr report |
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2001 5:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 10.8 hr report
>
> Still, if Randy can make this work well for him and save some panel space,
> then by all means go for it buddy! I just love experimental...we get to
> freely choose how we want to fly and by what means our panels tell us
what's
> going on with our airplanes.
> _-
You guys are just plain missing it. All you really need to do is spend about
25 years as a model-maker machinist stareing at a digital readout, and it'll
start comming to you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Randy Griffin
RV-8 (some day N925RG)
Canopy wars
Hanging around Randy Lervold's hanger, making moaning sounds.
===========================================================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Hughes" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
Would someone more intelligent than I tell me what the hell this has to do
with building or flying airplanes?
Keith Hughes
Puzzled RV-6 builder
----- Original Message -----
From: <MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2001 6:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Virus
>
> i like chicken, i like liver, meow mix meow mix please deliver
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder skin repair |
Proseal a stiffener on the inside of the skin. Or maybe a dollup of proseal
alone will be enough to stop the oilcanning.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> >From: PeterHunt1(at)aol.com
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: RV-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: Rudder skin repair
> >Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 12:04:05 EDT
> >
> >
> >Ouch! Ouch!
> >
> >I accidentally creased my rudder skin while installing stiffeners. I
> >worked
> >the one-inch long crease out with my fingers until it was hardly
> >noticeable.
> >But then I laid it on my back riveting plate thinking I could hammer the
> >rest
> >of the crease out. Instead, I stretched the skin slightly. Now this
> >stretched area, about the size of a quarter, can be popped in
> and out about
> >1/16 th of an inch with slight finger pressure. (1) I can add a
> three-inch
> >stiffener to eliminate this oil canning, but this means three
> rivets where
> >there shouldn't be any. (2) I can glue a strip of aluminum on
> the inside
> >of
> >the skin, but precisely what glue should I use. (3) I can let
> it go until
> >finish painting and fill the ever so slight indentation with body filler.
> >
> >Any suggestions?
> >
> >Pete - RV-6
> >Completing empennage
> >Clearwater, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | tank access gasket sealer |
I need some info from some of the completed builders that have time in the RV.
I need some advise as to either pro seal access gasket or to use aircraft
gasket sealer. I have read that the sealer does not work that great. Yes, I
realize that once prosealed its in for good. Thoughts? Thanks, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tank access gasket sealer |
> I need some advise as to either pro seal access gasket or to use aircraft
> gasket sealer.
I've been on this list since the beginning, and I can tell you there have
been a lot more reports from people who used gaskets/fuel lube etc. and
ended up with leaks around the plates, than from people who used proseal and
had to get the plates off for any reason. If you use proseal it will be a
bit more difficult to get the plate off, but "on there for good"? Not true.
I know a few people who've done it and said it wasn't a big deal. So my
recommendation would be to proseal em. Mine's prosealed on and no leaks
there or anywhere else.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~200 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
> Anyone have a single or two axis auto pilot for sale, or know of a auto
> supplier? I am thinking of installing a wings leveler or better in my
> RV9A and would like to do it while the bottom skins are off my new
> wings. Any ideas or thoughts on the matter would be gratefully
> received.
The most popular low cost autopilot is the Navaid wing leveler with heading
track. I've got mine mounted under the seat where it will stay dry. It
connects to the copilot's stick via the short shaft supplied in the kit. I
am on the verge of replacing it with a long one over to the pilots stick. It
is said to make it work better in turbulence. When I last talked to Navaid
they were developing an altitude hold as an add on. I don't know how they
are coming along with it though.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Cherroff" <sam(at)videoassist.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder skin repair |
You can find it at www.clickbond.com. What did you expect? :-)
I've used this stuff on all sorts of racing applications. It's fast and
very good. And I believe that it has been STC'd.
>
> What is "click-bond" and where do you get it?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
It is a heavy, out of production engine. The horse power rating in
> optimistic, with poor gas consumption that is very prone to carb icing.
Yes, the Continental 0-300 is prone to icing, but I managed with one in my
Skyhawk without too much trouble. The thing I liked about that engine was
that it ALWAYS started without fuss, it was SMOOOOOTH (6 cylinders will do
that) and parts are (relatively) cheap- there are so many out there that
jugs, etc. are easy to come by.
Ed Winne
RV-9A
Palmyra PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder skin repair |
One thing I don't understand; 3x gun 25 lbs "LIGHT BUCKING BAR", 1x gun
"HEAVY BAR". What is the theory behind the weight of the bars? I thought
the 3x gun was 'stronger' and would bounce a light bar. I thought the
best thing was to always use as heavy of a bar as you can get in the
spot???
Barry Pote RV9a Wings
Emrath wrote:
>
>
> What is "click-bond" and where do you get it?
>
> Also, I use 25# of air at the tank with a 50' hose with my 3X rivet gun on
> 3/32 rivets. Sometimes even less on curved surfaces. I trigger the gun
> very slow, use short bursts to control the bucking bar, and use a light
> bucking bar. Not a lot of pressure at the gun I'm sure. Works well for me,
> "your mileage may vary". Also, I'm having excellent results with a 1X gun on
> my fuselage (borrowed from Shelby Smith, thanks buddy) at 35-40# tank
> pressure and a heavier bucking bar !
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Electric Fuel Pump Mounting |
List: I am mounting the Electric Fuel Pump and note the plans call
for Doubler behind the fuel pump on the inside of the fuselage and a piece
of angle on the outside?
Seems like overkill adding a lot of weight? I noticed most
builders don't seem to use the doubler on the inside just angle on the
outside of the fuselage.
What say you? Any pictures depicting a nice installation on the
Builder Websites?
Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
I have been told there is construction insurance available...can anyone
please tell me which one is the best to get...if there is one...thanks
j. dawson
RV8A finishing?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Don't know if it is the only source for builder's insurance, but here is
one:
http://avemco.com/
I found the premiums to be reasonable; however, once the RV-6 was ready
to fly, I went elsewhere since there are better options (my opinion
only) for flight insurance.
New builders, keep in mind that as a general rule homeowners insurance
will not cover an aircraft project.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
==================
old ogre wrote:
>
>
> I have been told there is construction insurance available...can anyone
> please tell me which one is the best to get...if there is one...thanks
> j. dawson
> RV8A finishing?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Navaid has been talking about the altitude module for YEARS!
Here is something that might warrant a second look:
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/ccady/eztrim.htm
I have heard no reports from the field as to how well this device works.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, accurately guided by Navaid and Lowrance 100,
altitude hold via thumb and forefinger)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
========================
Norman wrote:
>
>
> > Anyone have a single or two axis auto pilot for sale, or know of a auto
> > supplier? I am thinking of installing a wings leveler or better in my
> > RV9A and would like to do it while the bottom skins are off my new
> > wings. Any ideas or thoughts on the matter would be gratefully
> > received.
>
> The most popular low cost autopilot is the Navaid wing leveler with heading
> track. I've got mine mounted under the seat where it will stay dry. It
> connects to the copilot's stick via the short shaft supplied in the kit. I
> am on the verge of replacing it with a long one over to the pilots stick. It
> is said to make it work better in turbulence. When I last talked to Navaid
> they were developing an altitude hold as an add on. I don't know how they
> are coming along with it though.
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: insurance |
The Van's-sponsered insurance, VanGuard, offers project coverage. I have my
renters ins through them too. So far, so good. There is more info on Van's
website.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of old ogre
> Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 9:21 AM
> To: RV-8-List (E-mail)
> Subject: RV8-List: insurance
>
>
> --> RV8-List message posted by: old ogre
>
> I have been told there is construction insurance available...can anyone
> please tell me which one is the best to get...if there is one...thanks
> j. dawson
> RV8A finishing?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 5/19/01 6:26:38 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
jollyd(at)teleport.com writes:
<< I have been told there is construction insurance available...can anyone
please tell me which one is the best to get >>
Don't know about "the best", but I have construction insurance with Nation
Air and it is substantially less expensive than I was quoted by Avemco. Call
John (JT) Helms at 636-532-0023. Nation Air seems to specialize in RV
coverage, at least that's my impression.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | 8A spar center section rivets |
I'm currently installing the floors and control tube in my -8A, and am
wondering when I rivet the two halves of the wing center section (F-804A and
F-804B) together. I'm referring to the row of 12, 1/8" rivets that attach
the upper forward flanges together. The bottom side was riveted together
when I put the skins on, but I can't seem to find a reference to this top
row of rivets in the manual. Hopefully I didn't overlook it.
I ask because I'm about to drill the bolt holes for the rear stick support.
Since the front stick support attaches to the front of the center section, I
was wondering if the rivets I'm asking about should already be in.
Matthew
-8A fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Tank rib rivet spacing |
Hi all,
For the RV8, the manual states to get the tank rib rear flange rivets as
close to the top and bottom edge as possible. I assume the minimum
distance would be 1/4". In the plans and the video it looks like the
rivets are about a 1/2" from the edge. A'm I missing something here?
Should I stick with the manuals advice?
Thanks from DSM
Jack
RV8, wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 8A spar center section rivets |
> I'm currently installing the floors and control tube in my -8A, and am
> wondering when I rivet the two halves of the wing center section (F-804A
and
> F-804B) together. I'm referring to the row of 12, 1/8" rivets that
attach
> the upper forward flanges together. The bottom side was riveted together
> when I put the skins on, but I can't seem to find a reference to this top
> row of rivets in the manual. Hopefully I didn't overlook it.
>
> I ask because I'm about to drill the bolt holes for the rear stick
support.
> Since the front stick support attaches to the front of the center section,
I
> was wondering if the rivets I'm asking about should already be in.
>
> Matthew
> -8A fuse
Mathew,
Not sure if you have a Quickbuild or regular, but it is *very important*
that the 804 be spaced to match your wing spar stubs EXACTLY. The manual
tells you to make some spacers that match the thickness of the spar stubs
and bolt them in there. If this has already been done then you can rivet the
top edge you're describing.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, N558RL, 12.4 hrs
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
Flying RV-8ers,
What are you using for Vx and Vy?
Also, what have you determined as "best glide" speed?
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Tank rib rivet spacing |
I'd put them 1/4" from the edge. There's no downside to moving them closer
to the edge (as long as you don't lose edge distance).
Matthew
8A fuse
Hi all,
For the RV8, the manual states to get the tank rib rear flange rivets as
close to the top and bottom edge as possible. I assume the minimum
distance would be 1/4". In the plans and the video it looks like the
rivets are about a 1/2" from the edge. A'm I missing something here?
Should I stick with the manuals advice?
Thanks from DSM
Jack
RV8, wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Sheppard" <jtshepp(at)lvnworth.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder skin repair |
I don't know what psi is best. I run the flat set in the palm of my hand and
adjust the pressure with the valve at the gun. I leave the tank pressure at
90 psi. The thickness of the material being riveted, the rivet size, and the
bucking bar size all seem to call for varying pressures. By fare most
important factor is the bucking bars position and room to bounce to properly
forming the shop head. I use enough force with the gun hand to just keep the
set from wandering. I hold the bucking bar straight but loosely, planing on
the "bounce". If you find yourself forcing the gun to the bucking bar -
things get ugly quick. I'm also using a 3X gun.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tank access gasket sealer |
>
> > I need some advise as to either pro seal access gasket or to use
aircraft
> > gasket sealer.
>
> I've been on this list since the beginning, and I can tell you there have
> been a lot more reports from people who used gaskets/fuel lube etc. and
> ended up with leaks around the plates, than from people who used proseal
and
> had to get the plates off for any reason. If you use proseal it will be a
> bit more difficult to get the plate off, but "on there for good"? Not
true.
> I know a few people who've done it and said it wasn't a big deal. So my
> recommendation would be to proseal em. Mine's prosealed on and no leaks
> there or anywhere else.
>
I first used fuel lube on the cork gaskets. One tank last about 50 hours
and the other about 250 hours. On the first tank that started leaking I
used proseal with no cork gasket. Now that one is leaking also.
Is there anyone that has been flying for quite a few hundred hours that can
tell me the secret? Maybe I'm not using enough proseal. Did you first put
some proseal, then tighen the screws a little more? Did you put a proseal
fillet on the outside of the access plate? Did you use proseal and a
gasket? Enquiring minds want to know.
I humbly bow at the spectacle of your superior knowledge!
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying, but down for annual
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Rivet Guns and bucking bars, was "Rudder skin repair" |
Great Post John, this would be a big help to a beginning riveter. I have
found that the 3X gun has a longer stroke and slower hits than my 1X. Thus,
to get enough pressure to form the shop head when using my 1X gun, I seem to
need a heavier bar, since there is less "bounce". That's just my thought on
the subject and seems to work for me. The lighter bar is easier to control
when using the 3X and so it doesn't get away from me and ding up something.
The best bar I have is one I made from Sam Buchannan suggestion on his www
site for riveting the ailerons. I've been using it ever since in all kinds
of applications. One face is 80 degrees (10 degrees from perpendicular) and
I find it quite useful! I agree with John about not holding everything real
tight. On my fuselage, where the parts are held very snugly to the jig,
sometimes the rivets don't seem to want to set, and it's because there is
not enough movement permitted.
Marty in Brentwood TN
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Sheppard" <jtshepp(at)lvnworth.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 2:55 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Rudder skin repair
>
> I don't know what psi is best. I run the flat set in the palm of my hand
and
> adjust the pressure with the valve at the gun. I leave the tank pressure
at
> 90 psi. The thickness of the material being riveted, the rivet size, and
the
> bucking bar size all seem to call for varying pressures. By fare most
> important factor is the bucking bars position and room to bounce to
properly
> forming the shop head. I use enough force with the gun hand to just keep
the
> set from wandering. I hold the bucking bar straight but loosely, planing
on
> the "bounce". If you find yourself forcing the gun to the bucking bar -
> things get ugly quick. I'm also using a 3X gun.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
I'm trying to get one of the engine manufactures to sell me a Jet A
burning Diesel. I recently hassled Lycombing and they told me they are
developing a six cylinder diesel of around 360 cubes and making 230 hp.
This has to be smoother than an O-360. They said it will achieve
certification in 2004. I have been asking if it will mount the same as a
O-320/O-360. Still waiting for that answer. Is 230 hp too much for a
RV6A?
If you know anything new on diesels please pipe up. I want a new engine
that is actually new.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Oberst" <joberst(at)columbus.rr.com> |
I have a policy from AVEMCO. I have not comparison shopped.
----- Original Message -----
From: "old ogre" <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 9:20 AM
Subject: RV-List: insurance
>
> I have been told there is construction insurance available...can anyone
> please tell me which one is the best to get...if there is one...thanks
> j. dawson
> RV8A finishing?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Dysinger" <larrykdysinger(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: insurance |
Go to van's web page and click on the web link for NationAir.
Good builder's insurance rates.
From: old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
Subject: RV8-List: insurance
Date: Sat, 19 May 2001 06:20:48 -0700
--> RV8-List message posted by: old ogre
I have been told there is construction insurance available...can anyone
please tell me which one is the best to get...if there is one...thanks
j. dawson
RV8A finishing?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tank access gasket sealer |
Larry Pardue wrote:
>
> Is there anyone that has been flying for quite a few hundred hours that can
> tell me the secret? Maybe I'm not using enough proseal. Did you first put
> some proseal, then tighen the screws a little more? Did you put a proseal
> fillet on the outside of the access plate? Did you use proseal and a
> gasket? Enquiring minds want to know.
>
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying, but down for annual
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
Larry 13 years ago I prosealed the end plate on my tanks and so far I have not
had to take them off. I used generous amounts of proseal and you also have to
use it around the screw threads or the fuel well wick out around the screws.
This has worked well for me, I know others cringe at the thoughts of proseal.
Jerry Springer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Primers, internal/external |
Fred,
Are you on crack? Coleman Fuel? I'm suprised what ever primer you used
stuck at all!
As a guy who paints for a living, I'll give you what we do.
Let me perface by saying that these are not the only systems or brands
to use but we've had very good results with both of them.
First, forget about shopping at Home Depot for your corrosion protection
products (primers and paints). I have never seen one of their ads for
aircraft or automotive parts or supplies. Go to your local PBE supplier
or look under Automotive Paint or Body Shop suppliers in the phone book.
Second, what ever system you decide to use, use the whole system from
start to finish unless your versed in the properties and reactions of
the components as they relate to other brands, ie. Dupont will react
with S.M. ( Martin-senyour). PPG will react with some Randolph's.
We use both PPG and DuPont systems but, mainly use DuPont for priming
aluminum. If done right we feel the only thing better is power coated
protection.
We start with washing the entire job with soap and water, dry, and then
wipe down with wash thinner. We use 225S followed by 226S to etch and
convert the al-cad. No big deal, just follow directions. Then use
Vari-Prime 615S (it's green) to prime. If we're putting a topcoat
finish on it we always undercoat over the Vari-prime with 2670
Prime-n-Seal, then top coat with the finish product.
If you live in Scott V.'s "Repblic of Granola" then you can use
Variprime 625S which is Lead and Chromate free. Long live Fienstien?
We haven't used 625S so I can't tell you if it is as good as the 615S or
not. We use 615S because it has high Chromate in it.
You might have to really press the sales rep. at the paint store but all
major producers put out a tech manual on their systems. It will answer
a lot of questions and fix alot of problems before they happen.
Sorry this got a little long . Hope this answered some of your questions.
Jim Duckett
Performance Engineering
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 5/19/2001 8:26:46 AM Central Daylight Time,
jollyd(at)teleport.com writes:
> I have been told there is construction insurance available...can anyone
> please tell me which one is the best to get...if there is one...thanks
> j. dawson
> RV8A finishing?
avemco, only company that doesnt require liability
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder skin repair (Long Post) |
Barry,
It looks like your getting a handle on your riveting technique so I'll
address the question regarding repairing dings, or more specifically what to
use and what not to use.
Never use Bondo or any of the other automotive type Polyester based fillers.
They are heavy, they shrink and their bond strength is extremely poor.
Try not to use automotive glaze putties. They are in most cases a lacquer
base and over time will harden and shrink.
On your project you have two or three very different materials, fiberglass
reinforced polyester, fiberglass reinforced epoxy and aluminum, that are
going to need fillers etc. The materials that will work on one may not work
on the other.
To fill larger dents etc. use a mixture of epoxy and microballons (micro) if
the dent is at an edge the micro is to soft and will not stand up to daily
stresses instead use a epoxy and cotton flox mixture. It is much harder( and
harder to sand), but it is also heavier so go easy with it.
You can also use Poly Fiber Superfill which is a epoxy micro blend that is
pre mixed for you. The only problem with Superfil is that you can't change
the ration of microballons to epoxy, if you want to harden up the surface a
little, like you can with the hand mixed micro. Be sure to rough up the area
that your going to work on with a Scotch Brite Pad. If you don't. I
guaranteed you that it will come off.
For pinholes, scratches or small depressions, I like the new Poly Fiber UV
Smooth Prime. It's a waterborne polyurethane that is easily applied using a
roller or spray gun. It's easy to dry sand and cleans up using water. Poly
Fiber tells you to thin for spraying but not for rolling. I disagree. If
your working in temperatures of 70 and above you should thin it as if you
are going to spray it. This allows the material to penetrate better and get
into the smaller pinholes before drying. You can use the UV Smooth Prime on
aluminum, but only in small areas (such as the dings you filled earlier) and
if the temperature is over 70. The reason for this is UV Smooth Prime is a
waterborne product, and has no inhibitors in it to stop the surface from
oxidizing if it takes too long to dry.
Poly Fiber has a great manual for finishing your airplane, I think it's
free.
Hope this has helped.
Garry LeGare
RV6 Finishing
barry pote wrote:
>
> While on the subject of repairs......
>
> 1. How do you test (immediately after some damage, particularly around a
> rivet areas...where you may or...may not have put a small smilie in the
> near approximate skin area) to see that normal paint prep later, will
> fix the problem?
>
> 2. Do you make these repairs to the bare aluminum using....Bondo? Epoxy
> filled with ballons? Or do you wait till primer time and use automotive
> glaze putties?
>
> I was thinking of spreading something like peanut butter (creamy style)
> over the rivet area with with a smooth plastic applicator to see how it
> would look, but we have lots of squirrels in the area!!
>
> My rivets (3/32ths type) are getting better now that I took the brass
> regulator off my 3X gun and turned the pressure down to 25 pounds (when
> trigger is ON). Should I have to go lower than that? Whe I try to go
> lower, the regulator, near the tank, does not maintain a
> consistant,trigger ON, pressure. It just dives down.
>
> Last; I am beginnig to get consistantly good rivets, when working by
> myself, when I have a way of holding the part still. i.e. Working on the
> flaps of my NINE, the nose in the cradle, working from the wide end of
> the ribs, heading towards the trailing edge... when near the cradle,
> everything goes ok. But getting up near the trailing edge, with nothing
> to support the work, with bucking bar on one side and gun on the other,
> I have made boo boo's. Is there a trick...just wait for help?
>
> I ask all of this, as I am about to head into the wing skins.
>
> Your help is much appreciated.
> Barry POte
> RV9a wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Primers, internal/external |
Here I go again... One of these days I'll get barred of the list :)
Jim,
I think the term "Coleman" fuel is a bit ambigious. I also use "Coleman"
fuel although it is straight, clean Naphta. It contains no oils (I was
concerned so I called the manufacturer - they *do* call it "lamp-oil",
right?) and does an excellent job - you can see spots from fingerprints
disappear as you clean. The surface is left nice and dry with no oils on it.
I think the term "Coleman" is sorta like "SkiDoo" and "Kleenex". There are
many types. I.e., some include rust inhibitors and some don't.
Just my opinion!
Are
RV-8 with primer that has been sticking for 1 full year on Coleman camp
fuel. I'll bring leftovers to Oshkosh for my lamp.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Duckett
Sent: May 19, 2001 8:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Primers, internal/external
Fred,
Are you on crack? Coleman Fuel? I'm suprised what ever primer you used
stuck at all!
As a guy who paints for a living, I'll give you what we do.
Let me perface by saying that these are not the only systems or brands
to use but we've had very good results with both of them.
First, forget about shopping at Home Depot for your corrosion protection
products (primers and paints). I have never seen one of their ads for
aircraft or automotive parts or supplies. Go to your local PBE supplier
or look under Automotive Paint or Body Shop suppliers in the phone book.
Second, what ever system you decide to use, use the whole system from
start to finish unless your versed in the properties and reactions of
the components as they relate to other brands, ie. Dupont will react
with S.M. ( Martin-senyour). PPG will react with some Randolph's.
We use both PPG and DuPont systems but, mainly use DuPont for priming
aluminum. If done right we feel the only thing better is power coated
protection.
We start with washing the entire job with soap and water, dry, and then
wipe down with wash thinner. We use 225S followed by 226S to etch and
convert the al-cad. No big deal, just follow directions. Then use
Vari-Prime 615S (it's green) to prime. If we're putting a topcoat
finish on it we always undercoat over the Vari-prime with 2670
Prime-n-Seal, then top coat with the finish product.
If you live in Scott V.'s "Repblic of Granola" then you can use
Variprime 625S which is Lead and Chromate free. Long live Fienstien?
We haven't used 625S so I can't tell you if it is as good as the 615S or
not. We use 615S because it has high Chromate in it.
You might have to really press the sales rep. at the paint store but all
major producers put out a tech manual on their systems. It will answer
a lot of questions and fix alot of problems before they happen.
Sorry this got a little long . Hope this answered some of your questions.
Jim Duckett
Performance Engineering
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
Are,
Well Bud, we both may be banned...I just get a little nervous when guys
are trying to make products do what they ain't 'sposed ta do. We get a
lot of customers that bring in parts to full vehicles and airframes that
want us to fix the problems caused by using the wrong or non-intended
products. Generally they are trying to save a buck or two (auto and
aircraft stuff isn't cheap) by going to " the big orange box store" but,
lets face it folks, you don't buy attaching hardware that's sold by the
pound in a hardware store do you? Why should what you protect and
finish you "labor of love" with be any different? The cost difference
will actually be a savings in the long run when you consider what mother
nature can do to you and how long the "substitutes' hold up to her.
Just know the components, properties and reactivity of the products your
using...
'nuff said!
Jim D.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tank access gasket sealer |
> > I need some advise as to either pro seal access gasket or to use
aircraft
> > gasket sealer.
>
> I've been on this list since the beginning, and I can tell you there have
> been a lot more reports from people who used gaskets/fuel lube etc. and
> ended up with leaks around the plates, than from people who used proseal
and
> had to get the plates off for any reason. If you use proseal it will be a
> bit more difficult to get the plate off, but "on there for good"? Not
true.
> I know a few people who've done it and said it wasn't a big deal. So my
> recommendation would be to proseal em. Mine's prosealed on and no leaks
> there or anywhere else.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~200 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> www.vanshomewing.org
I just removed my right sender (not the whole cover) due to a defective
sender, and they were Prosealed on. I had it off and cleaned up in 20
minutes. MEK worked great for taking off what the razor blade did not. It
then took maybe 20 more minutes to Proseal it back on.
Randy Lervold,
RV-8, N558RL, 14.2 hrs
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
Maybe we should start our own list :)
You're absolutely right Jim, As long as each individual researh the
particular product it may be ok. After all, there are many 'lamp-oil'
products out there that can't be used for our use and would cause the primer
to not stick. I too know of far too many cases where people save a few
measly dollars and jeopardizes their otherwise costly projects (not
necessarily RV related).
p.s.
I just (5 minutes ago) put on-line a new version of the VAF Ontario Wing
website. Check it out if you have time.
Are
RV-8 Wings
www.ontariorvators.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Duckett
Sent: May 19, 2001 10:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: Paint List ?
Are,
Well Bud, we both may be banned...I just get a little nervous when guys
are trying to make products do what they ain't 'sposed ta do. We get a
lot of customers that bring in parts to full vehicles and airframes that
want us to fix the problems caused by using the wrong or non-intended
products. Generally they are trying to save a buck or two (auto and
aircraft stuff isn't cheap) by going to " the big orange box store" but,
lets face it folks, you don't buy attaching hardware that's sold by the
pound in a hardware store do you? Why should what you protect and
finish you "labor of love" with be any different? The cost difference
will actually be a savings in the long run when you consider what mother
nature can do to you and how long the "substitutes' hold up to her.
Just know the components, properties and reactivity of the products your
using...
'nuff said!
Jim D.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: insurance |
Whoops. Spoke to soon. I just received a cancellation notice from
GreatAmerican, the underwriter for my renters insurance from
NationAir/VanGuard. "Because we have discontinued writing your class and
type of risk."
In my book, insurance rates right up there with taxes and root canals!!
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
> Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 11:26 AM
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV8-List: insurance
>
>
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen"
>
> The Van's-sponsered insurance, VanGuard, offers project coverage.
> I have my
> renters ins through them too. So far, so good. There is more
> info on Van's
> website.
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 fuse
> Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> Web: http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Guns and bucking bars, was "Rudder skin repair" |
I think Marty has something here. I have had a very difficult time setting
just a couple of the rivets that fasten the steel weldments between the
firewall and the longerons. These also go through a couple of layers of
skin. I just couldn't get them to form a decent shop head. I am about to
put the rivet gun on that side and a bucking bar on the outside and
backrivet them. Any suggestions?
Terry
RV-8A Seattle
----- Original Message -----
From: "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 2:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: Rivet Guns and bucking bars, was "Rudder skin repair"
On my fuselage, where the parts are held very snugly to the jig,
> sometimes the rivets don't seem to want to set, and it's because there is
> not enough movement permitted.
>
> Marty in Brentwood TN
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Guns and bucking bars, was "Rudder skin repair" |
I'd say go for it and let us know how you made out. I've a friend that has
back-riveted using the standard universal rivet set for -4 or -5 rivets in
the gun instead of the back-rivet set from Avery. Works fine he said, but
I've not done it. I'd go slow, trigger the gun gentle and hold that bar
still, but not too hard against the skin.
Marty
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 10:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rivet Guns and bucking bars, was "Rudder skin repair"
>
> I think Marty has something here. I have had a very difficult time
setting
> just a couple of the rivets that fasten the steel weldments between the
> firewall and the longerons. These also go through a couple of layers of
> skin. I just couldn't get them to form a decent shop head. I am about to
> put the rivet gun on that side and a bucking bar on the outside and
> backrivet them. Any suggestions?
>
> Terry
> RV-8A Seattle
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 2:31 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Rivet Guns and bucking bars, was "Rudder skin repair"
>
>
> On my fuselage, where the parts are held very snugly to the jig,
> > sometimes the rivets don't seem to want to set, and it's because there
is
> > not enough movement permitted.
> >
> > Marty in Brentwood TN
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Aileron design- NOT RV RELATED |
This has nothing to do with RVs so you may want to skip it... and, DO NOT
ARCHIVE
I'm posting it here, since others more educated may have an answer for me...
I've been reading books about airplane design, just the basics mind you, and
have been on a very boring nutplating spree with my mind mulling things
over. I was wondering:
1) Why do we put ailerons on both side of the plane? Couldn't you just use
one (bigger) aileron on one wing and leave the other blank? I don't know
why you'd want to do this, I was just wondering.
2) Has anyone every made a plane without ailerons, where the entire wing
rotates about the main spar for roll control? Then you could put flaps all
the way down the wing. Other than the fact that it would be fiendishly
difficult to design and build, would it work?
There's plenty more questions where those came from but I'll stop for now...
I hope Van doesn't read this, he might stop selling to me.
Matthew
8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 5/18/01 5:23:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com writes:
>
> i like chicken, i like liver, meow mix meow mix please deliver
>
>
>
Puzzled?
According to my son who posted this without my presence it has absolutely
nothing to do with a virus or building an RV. Teenagers........
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rudder skin repair (Long Post)] |
Date: Sat, 19 May 2001 17:56:25 -0700
From: Garry LeGare <"versadek"@ earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder skin repair (Long Post)
Barry,
It looks like your getting a handle on your riveting technique so I'll
address the question regarding repairing dings, or more specifically what to
use and what not to use.
Never use Bondo or any of the other automotive type Polyester based fillers.
They are heavy, they shrink and their bond strength is extremely poor.
Try not to use automotive glaze putties. They are in most cases a lacquer
base and over time will harden and shrink.
On your project you have two or three very different materials, fiberglass
reinforced polyester, fiberglass reinforced epoxy and aluminum, that are
going to need fillers etc. The materials that will work on one may not work
on the other.
To fill larger dents etc. use a mixture of epoxy and microballons (micro) if
the dent is at an edge the micro is to soft and will not stand up to daily
stresses instead use a epoxy and cotton flox mixture. It is much harder( and
harder to sand), but it is also heavier so go easy with it.
You can also use Poly Fiber Superfill which is a epoxy micro blend that is
pre mixed for you. The only problem with Superfil is that you can't change
the ration of microballons to epoxy, if you want to harden up the surface a
little, like you can with the hand mixed micro. Be sure to rough up the area
that your going to work on with a Scotch Brite Pad. If you don't. I
guaranteed you that it will come off.
For pinholes, scratches or small depressions, I like the new Poly Fiber UV
Smooth Prime. It's a waterborne polyurethane that is easily applied using a
roller or spray gun. It's easy to dry sand and cleans up using water. Poly
Fiber tells you to thin for spraying but not for rolling. I disagree. If
your working in temperatures of 70 and above you should thin it as if you
are going to spray it. This allows the material to penetrate better and get
into the smaller pinholes before drying. You can use the UV Smooth Prime on
aluminum, but only in small areas (such as the dings you filled earlier) and
if the temperature is over 70. The reason for this is UV Smooth Prime is a
waterborne product, and has no inhibitors in it to stop the surface from
oxidizing if it takes too long to dry.
Poly Fiber has a great manual for finishing your airplane, I think it's
free.
Hope this has helped.
Garry LeGare
RV6 Finishing
barry pote wrote:
>
> While on the subject of repairs......
>
> 1. How do you test (immediately after some damage, particularly around a
> rivet areas...where you may or...may not have put a small smilie in the
> near approximate skin area) to see that normal paint prep later, will
> fix the problem?
>
> 2. Do you make these repairs to the bare aluminum using....Bondo? Epoxy
> filled with ballons? Or do you wait till primer time and use automotive
> glaze putties?
>
> I was thinking of spreading something like peanut butter (creamy style)
> over the rivet area with with a smooth plastic applicator to see how it
> would look, but we have lots of squirrels in the area!!
>
> My rivets (3/32ths type) are getting better now that I took the brass
> regulator off my 3X gun and turned the pressure down to 25 pounds (when
> trigger is ON). Should I have to go lower than that? Whe I try to go
> lower, the regulator, near the tank, does not maintain a
> consistant,trigger ON, pressure. It just dives down.
>
> Last; I am beginnig to get consistantly good rivets, when working by
> myself, when I have a way of holding the part still. i.e. Working on the
> flaps of my NINE, the nose in the cradle, working from the wide end of
> the ribs, heading towards the trailing edge... when near the cradle,
> everything goes ok. But getting up near the trailing edge, with nothing
> to support the work, with bucking bar on one side and gun on the other,
> I have made boo boo's. Is there a trick...just wait for help?
>
> I ask all of this, as I am about to head into the wing skins.
>
> Your help is much appreciated.
> Barry POte
> RV9a wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Living proof that RV building DOES mess up your mind...
1)=A0 Why do we put ailerons on both side of the plane?=A0 Couldn't you just use
one (bigger) aileron on one wing and leave the other blank?=A0 I don't know
why you'd want to do this, I was just wondering.
I think you oughta try it and tell us how you make out!!
2)=A0 Has anyone every made a plane without ailerons, where the entire wing
rotates about the main spar for roll control?=A0 Then you could put flaps all
the way down the wing.=A0 Other than the fact that it would be fiendishly
difficult to design and build, would it work?
This is what the Wright Brothers did- it's called "wing warping" and all of
their early planes used this system for control.
There's plenty more questions where those came from but I'll stop for now...
No. Please.... Keep them coming!!
Ed Winne
RV-9A
Palmyra PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder skin repair |
The problem is that you should be using a back rivet set. Avery sells a very
good one. It allows you to push down to keep the stiffener against the skin.
It also has a guard to keep from slipping off your work. And finally 30# is
more than enough pressure to set those rivets. Trust me, I learned that one
the hard way. Hope this helps.
Ken -7 wings mid-state NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alison and Neil" <alisonandneil(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron design- NOT RV RELATED |
They do both in RC models. The one aileron design is used in racing where
you only turn in one direction. I'm not sure what they use the wingeron
design for other than awesome roll rate.
Neil
-7 emp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew Gelber" <mgelber(at)pacbell.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 9:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: Aileron design- NOT RV RELATED
>
> This has nothing to do with RVs so you may want to skip it... and, DO NOT
> ARCHIVE
>
> I'm posting it here, since others more educated may have an answer for
me...
>
> I've been reading books about airplane design, just the basics mind you,
and
> have been on a very boring nutplating spree with my mind mulling things
> over. I was wondering:
>
> 1) Why do we put ailerons on both side of the plane? Couldn't you just
use
> one (bigger) aileron on one wing and leave the other blank? I don't know
> why you'd want to do this, I was just wondering.
>
> 2) Has anyone every made a plane without ailerons, where the entire wing
> rotates about the main spar for roll control? Then you could put flaps
all
> the way down the wing. Other than the fact that it would be fiendishly
> difficult to design and build, would it work?
>
> There's plenty more questions where those came from but I'll stop for
now...
> I hope Van doesn't read this, he might stop selling to me.
>
> Matthew
> 8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: Electric Fuel Pump Mounting |
I forgot to mention this installation is on an RV6-A. Any ideas would be
appreciated.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom & Cathy Ervin <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 9:19 AM
Subject: Electric Fuel Pump Mounting
> for Doubler behind the fuel pump on the inside of the fuselage and a piece
> of angle on the outside?
> Seems like overkill adding a lot of weight? I noticed most
> builders don't seem to use the doubler on the inside just angle on the
> outside of the fuselage.
> What say you? Any pictures depicting a nice installation on
the
> Builder Websites?
>
>
> Tom in Ohio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron design- NOT RV RELATED |
Hi Matt:
I'll take a stab here. As to ailerons on both wings, I believe it has to do
with balancing out drag. One aileron's deflection would induce some adverse
yaw. Correct me if I am wrong here guys.....I'm just a hack rivet smasher
at best.
Regarding warping the whole wing, that is exactly what the Wright Flyer used
for roll control, so yes. there is an airplane that uses (used) that
configuration. Course that was with a fabric covered wing....a bit hard to
do with aluminum.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuse
Peshtigo, WI
>1) Why do we put ailerons on both side of the plane? Couldn't you just
use
>one (bigger) aileron on one wing and leave the other blank? I don't know
>why you'd want to do this, I was just wondering.
>
>2) Has anyone every made a plane without ailerons, where the entire wing
>rotates about the main spar for roll control? Then you could put flaps all
>the way down the wing. Other than the fact that it would be fiendishly
>difficult to design and build, would it work?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tail shake nonsense |
Bruce,
Airplanes make all kinds of racket we never hear. Work up your courage and
try this.
Take your 172 to an altitude high enough to be comfortable with with this, I
would use 5000 AGL. Shut down the engine after running reduced power for
cooling. Then do a stall to stop the prop. Now listen to the noise the plane
is making. You should hear control cables bumping against the airframe,
panels oil canning and who knows what else. Try different air speeds and
attitudes to hear the differances. An accelerated stall is interesting sound
wise.
The point is, airplanes make racket that we don't hear and it doesn't hurt
them or us at all.
Don't worry. Build your -7 and fly it hard. Van designes a damn fine plane
that is safe and fun.
By the way, don't forget to restart the 172 before the houses get big.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: making hoses |
Tom--
The makers of 303 recommend "light grease, petrolatum or "lubricating oil"".
>
>
> Guys,
> I am making my 303 hoses for fuel and oil lines.
> I seem to remember that there was a special oil used during assembly.
> I searched the archives but didn't find my answer.
> Is there anybody out there who can help me??
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Tom Gummo
> Apple Valley, CA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "john white" <jakeaire(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | manifold pressure line |
does anyone know what size drain hole should be in the line that travels
from the firewall to the cylinder(engine)??
this line provides the vacuum necessary to get a manifold pressure reading. i'd
appreciate your help!!!
"http://explorer.msn.com">http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: making hoses |
I keep a bottle of STP oil elixer in the shop. This is the slickest,
slimiest stuff this side of gorrila snot.
At the suggestion of a local A&P, I used the STP while assembling the
oil hoses for my RV-6.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
=====================
"Boyd C. Braem" wrote:
>
>
> Tom--
>
> The makers of 303 recommend "light grease, petrolatum or "lubricating oil"".
> >
> >
> > Guys,
> > I am making my 303 hoses for fuel and oil lines.
> > I seem to remember that there was a special oil used during assembly.
> > I searched the archives but didn't find my answer.
> > Is there anybody out there who can help me??
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Tom Gummo
> > Apple Valley, CA
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys,
I've been told that Van's has two tints available for RV-8/8A canopies.
Apparently if you don't specify, you just get the 'standard tint' which
is what I assume most people have since it's not even listed as an option
on the order form. I'm just wondering if anyone has ordered the optional
darker tint, and if so, do you have a picture of it? Would it still work
for night VFR? I'm just thinking it might make things slightly cooler
inside on a sunny day.
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BERNIE KERR" <kerrjb(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | FW: Final plans for June Alaska trip(Long non-building DNA) |
-----Original Message-----
From: BERNIE KERR [mailto:kerrjb(at)msn.com]
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2001 9:16 PM
Subject: Final plans for June Alaska trip(Long non-building DNA)
I will be departing Fla around the first of June for a 9-10 thousand mile
trip in my RV. Plan on being in Waco June 2, to see how they do an RV flyin
TEXAS style. From there, plan on flying up by Denver and overnighting in
Wyoming at North Big Horn Co airport. Fom there it is Cutbank, Montana and
on to Lethbridge Canada to check customs. Probably overnite around Calcary
or Edmonton.From there will pickup the Alcan to Northway, AK. After that it
will probably be Anchorage, Kenai, and Lake Clarke for a week or two. Might
go to Fairbanks if the weather is good by Denali.
On the way home will swing more eastward, probably Madison, SD and to
Memphis to meet wife, to NC for a week and then home after about 5 weeks
living with my RV.
Plan on lots of nights in the tent. If I can find showers, am actually more
comfortable in my tent.
If my itinerary brings me close by you, write me off line and if the
opportunity comes, maybe we can get together for some hangar flying while I
am waiting for weather.
Thanks to Gar Pessel for his info package he mailed me plus all the other
input others have provided.
Bernie Kerr, 6A, N60WM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: manifold pressure line |
You should use same size bulkhead fitting that is on the back of your
manifold pressure gage. This fitting will determine the size of the hole.
Avoid going thru your firewall with any tubing without using a bulkhead
fitting. Costs a bit, but you will not have to worry about chaffing, or
fluids, gases (CO) or even fire coming thru the firewall into the pilot's
compartment from that tube.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "john white" <jakeaire(at)msn.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2001 11:56 AM
Subject: RV-List: manifold pressure line
does anyone know what size drain hole should be in the line that travels
from the firewall to the cylinder(engine)??
this line provides the vacuum necessary to get a manifold pressure reading. i'd
appreciate your help!!!
"http://explorer.msn.com">http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: RV-List tank access gasket sealer |
____________________
>
> I first used fuel lube on the cork gaskets. One tank last
> about 50 hours
> and the other about 250 hours. On the first tank that
> started leaking I
> used proseal with no cork gasket. Now that one is leaking also.
>
> Is there anyone that has been flying for quite a few
> hundred hours that can
> tell me the secret? Maybe I'm not using enough proseal.
> Did you first put
> some proseal, then tighen the screws a little more? Did
> you put a proseal
> fillet on the outside of the access plate? Did you use
> proseal and a
> gasket? Enquiring minds want to know.
>
> I humbly bow at the spectacle of your superior knowledge!
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
Larry,
I will mention this because I have not seen it before on the list. I
used cork gaskets with Aviation Permatex gasket sealer painted on both
sides of the gasket and on the screws. (I don't remember the Permatex
number, but I found it at an autoparts store.)
No leaks in 4 years and 645 hours.
An A&P recommended that I use this sealer to stop an oil leak on one
of the through bolts at the front of my engine. It worked.
Mark Nielsen
RV-6
Green Bay, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron design- NOT RV RELATED |
-----Original Message-----
From: Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Aileron design- NOT RV RELATED
>I've been reading books about airplane design, just the basics mind you,
and
>have been on a very boring nutplating spree with my mind mulling things
>over. I was wondering:
>
>1) Why do we put ailerons on both side of the plane? Couldn't you just
use
>one (bigger) aileron on one wing and leave the other blank? I don't know
>why you'd want to do this, I was just wondering.
>
>2) Has anyone every made a plane without ailerons, where the entire wing
>rotates about the main spar for roll control? Then you could put flaps all
>the way down the wing. Other than the fact that it would be fiendishly
>difficult to design and build, would it work?
>Matthew
>8A
Matthew: More years ago than I would like to think, I asked Dick Schreder
(designer and builder of high performance sailplanes)your second question.
While not giving me a comprehensive answer, he said enough to make me think
it not a good idea. The difficulty comes at high lift coefficients (low
speed or high altitude flight). When operating close to the stall the need
to raise a wing could easily result in a stall of that wing. The condition
then is tailor made for a spin. I have no idea what the recovery from such
a condition would be like. I can imagine that it would be imperative to
center the stick and the rudder would be all you could rely upon until
sufficient airspeed (low enough lift coefficient) is in hand so that normal
control inputs would not result in a repeat of the process. I believe the
early wing warping method of roll control was a process somewhat akin to an
aileron in that it affected the outer portion of the wing, although it may
or may not have caused a change in wing camber. Tip stalls must have been a
lot of fun. This brings us back to the aileron.
A flap achieves its effectiveness by changing the camber (mean curvature) of
the surface, whether it is a wing with a flap or aileron, or a stabiliser
with an elevator or rudder attached. The maximum lift achievable is
substantially greater than that of the unflapped surface; for a plain flap
on Van'r airfoil it is in the order of 50% increase. With the increase in
lift comes an increase in drag and with ailerons this gives rise to adverse
yaw. We need a rudder to manage this. This also means that control
authority in roll is greater and this control can be applied where it is
most effective, near the outer end of the wing. That doesn't mean the
inboard portion of the wing should be ignored, but for the kind of flying we
do the inboard portion is better used for flaps. In striving for maximum
performance some aircraft have combined flap and aileron functions in some
ways. The Venture, I believe, used full span ailerons which could be
deflected or reflexed to improve wing efficiency in certain flight
conditions. The PIK20B sailplane that I once owned had flaps that could be
set from minus 12 degrees to plus 70 degrees and the ailerons were centered
with the flaps between minus 12 and about plus 20 ( I forget exactly) and
beyond that the flaps went on alone. The flaps did not have any roll
control function. Not all airfoils respond well to this treatment. The
23xxx airfoil on Van's birds is one that does not respond well.
With regard to the single aileron, the above suggests some things. If you
wish to lift the wing with the aileron on it, you deflect the aileron down,
increasing lift and drag on that side. You would use rudder against that
drag. If you wished to lift the other wing, deflecting the aileron up would
reduce lift on the side with the aileron and the non-aileron wing would
rise. I am not smart enough to know what the drag consequences would be,
but I suspect it would depend, in part, on the airfoil being used and the
aileron geometry. In any case it would be different from the first
condition. It also likely would result in entirely different control
responses for reasons cited above. The unflapped panel will have a
different lift curve than the flapped one. With symmetrically placed
ailerons control responses will be about the same right and left and by
using more up deflection than down and using the protruding leading edges it
is possible to reduce adverse yaw dramatically. Additionally, the method of
roll control that depends on reducing lift rather than increasing it, as
with spoilers for roll control, has not been very successful on small
aircraft. The most prominent example I can think of is the MU2. There is
no tendency to self center and the responses tend not to be very near
linear.
I hope I have not started a fire with these remarks. I would look forward
to professional comments on the subject. Perhaps B. Wainfan would write
about it in Kitplanes.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron design- NOT RV RELATED |
>
>This has nothing to do with RVs so you may want to skip it... and, DO NOT
>ARCHIVE
>
>I'm posting it here, since others more educated may have an answer for me...
>
>I've been reading books about airplane design, just the basics mind you, and
>have been on a very boring nutplating spree with my mind mulling things
>over. I was wondering:
>
>2) Has anyone every made a plane without ailerons, where the entire wing
>rotates about the main spar for roll control? Then you could put flaps all
>the way down the wing. Other than the fact that it would be fiendishly
>difficult to design and build, would it work?
>
A few additional considerations for your second question:
1. You could only use a single spar, so it wouldn't be as
structurally efficient as designs with two or more spars.
2. All the wing bending loads would be going through the pivot, so
there would be a lot of friction in that joint. This would likely
give very high stick forces to deflect the "wingerons", especially
when pulling more than one g. Powered controls would probably be a
necessity, which would add a lot of weight, and complication. Having
powered controls adds some interesting new failure modes too.
3. I suspect there could be flutter difficulties with the "wingeron"
type design. Solving the flutter problems would probably require
mass balancing the "wingeron" around the pivot point, which adds a
lot of weight. More weight = less performance + higher cost.
All in all, this is one of those configurations that is interesting
to ponder, but probably not worthwhile building for a manned
aircraft, unless pure experimentation is more important than the
performance to cost ratio.
Full span, wide chord ailerons comes somewhat close to the "wingeron"
design, with somewhat less complications (I said less complications,
not zero complications).
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (mounting wings)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Guns and bucking bars, was "Rudder skin repair" |
Terry,
One common solution there is to use structural screws with small all-metal
locknuts. They can be dimpled/countersunk fine and seem to be a great way
to pull all the layers together at the corners.
Aloha,
Russ
Maui
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 5:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rivet Guns and bucking bars, was "Rudder skin repair"
>
> I think Marty has something here. I have had a very difficult time
setting
> just a couple of the rivets that fasten the steel weldments between the
> firewall and the longerons. These also go through a couple of layers of
> skin. I just couldn't get them to form a decent shop head. I am about to
> put the rivet gun on that side and a bucking bar on the outside and
> backrivet them. Any suggestions?
>
> Terry
> RV-8A Seattle
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 2:31 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Rivet Guns and bucking bars, was "Rudder skin repair"
>
>
> On my fuselage, where the parts are held very snugly to the jig,
> > sometimes the rivets don't seem to want to set, and it's because there
is
> > not enough movement permitted.
> >
> > Marty in Brentwood TN
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Virus Protection |
Norman
Virus Scan won't enable email protection if you are using Netscape
Messenger. It isn't an option and it isn't needed for Messenger. It is
needed for Outlook Distress (assuming normal defaults) because VBS files run
automaticly in Outlook Distress. Netscape doesn't do this, so it isn't
needed. If I am wrong about ASSuming you are using Netscape, you do indeed
have a problem. I've used both McAfee and Norton. Both are good. Norton is
easier to use. McAfee writes fixes for new viruses in much less time than
Norton. Take your pick, they both work.
Charlie Kuss
>
> So I bought Mcafee Virus protection and the thing won't enable email
> scan. People are still sending me viruses. What a junk program. I try to
> update it and it gets errors and it won't do anything. There are no
> phone numbers to call for help, they want more money for that. What
> junk, and try to get it out of the computer, it is a maze. It doesn't
> work and I'm out $40. So here's my only recourse, slam the bad product.
> Please don't buy Mcafee, go for Norton. Mcafee is junk.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
Listers
Does anyone know of the email address to contact Jon Johanson?
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
Listers
Does anyone know of the email address to contact Jon Johanson?
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
Mark:
I have the darker tint but it still has the wrapping on it and I don't think
a picture would show you the difference. It is legal for night .
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Plumbing & Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "drjoe" <colizoli(at)starband.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Virus Protection |
I caught the worm Saturday morning. I never open email attachments but I
still got it somehow!?
I lurk in the matronics lancair,rv and zenith groups.
My virus detection (systemsuite2000) detected but could not clear the
worm..re. only detected by "real time virus scanner' and not the 'deep scan'
which enables removal.
I have been able to remove the worm through changes in the registry and
win.ini files and deleting 2 files in windows\system while in DOS.
If anyone needs specifics email (without attachments)....Here is the info on
the worm caught in matronics:
Win32.Badtrans.13312
Badtrans is a worm spreading via e-mail. The worm replies to all unread
messages and attaches itself using one of the following 16 names:
fun.pif
Humor.TXT.pif
docs.scr
s3msong.MP3.pif
Sorry_about_yesterday.DOC.pif
Me_nude.AVI.pif
Card.pif
SETUP.pif
searchURL.scr
YOU_are_FAT!.TXT.pif
hamster.ZIP.scr
news_doc.scr
New_Napster_Site.DOC.scr
README.TXT.pif
images.pif
Pics.ZIP.scr
When a user opens the attachment, the worm copies itself to the Windows
directory as:
inetd.exe
and modifies the file win.ini by including the line executing that program.
Additionally, the Badtrans worm, drops a backdoor trojan
(Win32.Badtrans.21882 Trojan). The worm creates and executes a 21882-byte
file in the Windows System directory:
kern32.exe
and modifies the registry in order to run it on the next reboot:
HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\RunOnce\kernel32=kern32.exe
The Trojan, which is in fact a backdoor server also uses its own library:
hksdll.dll (a 5632-byte file created in the same directory).
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 8:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Virus Protection
>
> Right On Norm!
> I purchased 2 versions of Mcafee, both were junk. They have told me
> numerous times they would send me a form for a refund, never seen it.
Have
> been very happy with Norton. No lock-ups or glitches.
> ...snip....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
Mark,
I'm not sure about this but also interested so I went looking at some
pictures and found one that looks like I can't have a tint and one that
looks like it *may* have a tint. You can judge for yourself. Maybe if we're
lucky, the owners sees my post and will comment.
No tint (I'm pretty sure):
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/rv_travel/EdHicks/EdHicksHomecoming2000/RV8
AN888VR_1.jpg
Tint (I think):
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/rv_travel/EdHicks/FL_2001/24.jpg
If the link wraps around, just highlight all of it and copy and paste it
into your browser.
Both photos are by Ed Hicks - who else? :)
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
czechsix(at)juno.com
Sent: May 20, 2001 2:17 PM
Subject: RV-List: Canopy tint
Guys,
I've been told that Van's has two tints available for RV-8/8A canopies.
Apparently if you don't specify, you just get the 'standard tint' which
is what I assume most people have since it's not even listed as an option
on the order form. I'm just wondering if anyone has ordered the optional
darker tint, and if so, do you have a picture of it? Would it still work
for night VFR? I'm just thinking it might make things slightly cooler
inside on a sunny day.
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Virus Protection |
Hate to disagree But Outlook what ever you call it does NOT automatically
run VBS attached files! I Run Outlook Express, have for many years and
although everyone keeps sending weird files, I don't open them and I haven't
gotten a virus yet.
P.S. Some one from one of the many lists is infected with the "Snow White"
virus. It comes as an attachment once or twice a day with many different
extents like... exe,pif,vbs,etc. I just delete and go on!
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org
or
experimenter(at)eaa.org
The Landings
Newsletter Editor & EAA TC for Chapter 75
http://members.tripod.com/~EAA_Chapter_75
Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2001 6:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Virus Protection
Norman
Virus Scan won't enable email protection if you are using Netscape
Messenger. It isn't an option and it isn't needed for Messenger. It is
needed for Outlook Distress (assuming normal defaults) because VBS files run
automaticly in Outlook Distress. Netscape doesn't do this, so it isn't
needed. If I am wrong about ASSuming you are using Netscape, you do indeed
have a problem. I've used both McAfee and Norton. Both are good. Norton is
easier to use. McAfee writes fixes for new viruses in much less time than
Norton. Take your pick, they both work.
Charlie Kuss
>
> So I bought Mcafee Virus protection and the thing won't enable email
> scan. People are still sending me viruses. What a junk program. I try to
> update it and it gets errors and it won't do anything. There are no
> phone numbers to call for help, they want more money for that. What
> junk, and try to get it out of the computer, it is a maze. It doesn't
> work and I'm out $40. So here's my only recourse, slam the bad product.
> Please don't buy Mcafee, go for Norton. Mcafee is junk.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
Boyd,
Do you have your EZ Trim driving a "stock" Van's elevator trim? Are
you satisfied with the performance delivered by the EZ Trim? What
level of altitude accuracy do you see using it? How's it respond in
turbulence?
Thanks!
Tim Lewis
RV-6A N47TD - 240 hours
> I have the EZTrim installed and it works very well. Chris Cady just
> lives up the road from me (well, about an hour). It marks altitude
> changes in 25' increments and since it senses relative, not absolute
> pressure changes, you aren't "required" to hook to your pitot/static
> line, you can just leave the port open to ambient cockpit pressure.
> >
> > Navaid has been talking about the altitude module for YEARS!
> > Here is something that might warrant a second look:
> > http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/ccady/eztrim.htm
> > I have heard no reports from the field as to how well this device
> > works.
> >
> > Sam Buchanan (RV-6, accurately guided by Navaid and Lowrance 100,
> > altitude hold via thumb and forefinger) "The RV Journal"
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Virus Protection |
Cy
I qualified my statement (assuming normal defaults). If you don't set Outlook
up with the normal defaults OR have installed any of the many security updates
for Microsoft, this feature is turned off.
Charlie Kuss
>
> Hate to disagree But Outlook what ever you call it does NOT automatically
> run VBS attached files! I Run Outlook Express, have for many years and
> although everyone keeps sending weird files, I don't open them and I haven't
> gotten a virus yet.
>
> P.S. Some one from one of the many lists is infected with the "Snow White"
> virus. It comes as an attachment once or twice a day with many different
> extents like... exe,pif,vbs,etc. I just delete and go on!
> Cy Galley
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley(at)qcbc.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Mounting gear leg fairings |
RE: RV-6 Landing Gear/Fuselage Intersection fairing mounting.
Hi,
I am looking for an alternative means of mounting the RV-6 Landing
Gear/Fuselage Intersection fairings. I am not impressed with the
suggested use of springs and safety wire as depicted in the manual. My
fairings split up the trailing edge and I don't think the spring/safety
wire method would hold it together well.
I was considering putting one screw hold on the inboard side and one on
the outboard side. The screw would go through the fairing into a
plate-nut in the fuselage side or the gear leg cover. Has anyone tried
either of these methods. I am thinking that a plate-nut mounted into
the fuse side would hold up better but I would like to hear from some
other builders.
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
N442E reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: manifold pressure line |
In a message dated 05/20/2001 8:27:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bj034(at)lafn.org writes:
> I wouldn't put any holes in the manifold pressure line. It will give you an
> erroneous reading and will not let the oil out unless it's a pretty big
hole.
>
> Make the line travel upward from the cylinder so that any oil will run back
> down. There is no reason for oil to travel into the line since the
pressure
> is
> lower at the cylinder end.
>
> Dave
>
Amen to that! The pressure in this line will always be less than or equal to
atmospheric. A hole would only suck air and give an erroneous reading. Oil
could drain out of the hole only after engine shut-down. Not sure how oil
could migrate up there in the first place. Maybe a very tiny hole would be
acceptable, but there will be a leaner cylinder and a higher than true MP
reading as a trade-off.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/FP Sensenich
Hop-Along Airfield - 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sink Rate (was 10.8 hr report) |
In a message dated 05/20/2001 6:15:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com writes:
> I decided one warm day while at max gross
> weight to try stabilizing at 80 mph on final. Well, approx 20-30 ft above
> the runway, I left airspeed drift down to 75 mph and found the sink rate
> rose rather alarming and had to really pulled back on the stick to flare.
> Can you say bent rear tie-down ring? No other damage and the landing was
> not hard, just had to really rotate to break the rate of decent and flare
> for landing. Of course trying it at max gross weight on a high density
> altitude day was not a smart move in the first place. Live and learn.
>
> Ed Anderson
Ed - FWIW, I always try to shoot a stabilized approach at 65 mph IAS with
full flaps on final to my home field. It really shortens the landing roll,
which is nice because it beats plunging over the cliff into the river at the
far end of the strip, but it's true that the sink rate with engine idling is
about 850 fpm at the beginning of the flare. You learn to judge when to haul
back, and you only get one chance to do it right. I have had to straighten
my tie down ring twice, out of maybe 500 landings.
My main dislike about this "approach to RV approaches:" the nose attitude at
65 is so high, you cannot see your touchdown point for awhile after the final
speed reduction coming out of the final turn, causing a powerful illusion
that you are going to overshoot. Then the sink kicks in, you feel like you
are trying to glide on a manhole cover and you start feeding in power to
compensate... I usually add too much. My second dislike: the way the
airplane starts hunting for trim speed once the flaps are run all the way
out. Phugoids of up to 10 mph amplitude are frequent, and mimic a gusty wind
condition on final. One learns to get out of sync with them and actively
cancel them out. Do this wrong and you have a PIO. (Am I the only one this
happens to?) The 6A is a cinch to land on a long paved runway at 90 over the
fence with half flaps like Mike Seager taught me, but that won't do on short
grass strips. My $.02 anyhow.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/FP Sensenich
Hop-Along Airfield - 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2001 3:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: virus vdx
>
> Dear listers:
> I week ago a lister gave instructions to remove a program or string
relating
> to virtual device drivers so viruses couldn't be activated, I did as he
> suggested not thinking the results. Well, I was downloading a fix to a
> joystick problem today, and I can't open this program, because it keeps
> asking me to "open with?". I know if I hadn't have deleted that program, I
> would not be having this problem.
> if the lister remembers this incident, please respond off list. I need to
get
> my Force Feedback Joystick fixed.
>
> sorry not rv related
>
> Scott
> Tampa
>
Scott,
I am not certain if you are referring to the same thing that I think you
are - or not. But, I renamed the WSCRIPT.EXE file in the C:\WINDOWS and the
C:\WINDOWS\VCM to WSCRIPT-NOVIRUS.EXE. based on a suggestion by someone.
This apparently prevents the virus from finding and using the scripting
capability. I figured I could rename the files back to their original name
if need be.
If you deleted them, I don't know how you would get them back other than a
possible reload of Windows. Perhaps someone with more savvy about computers
could suggest an approach.
Ed Anderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Setting Norton to Scan for e mail virues |
If you are using Norton's Anti-Virus, you need to set it up properly to
scan your e mails for viruses or else it will not catch them. Norton just
caught the Humor.TXT.pif message and quarantined it automatically and then
notified me. Of course I deleted the sucker. But, if you don't go to
"option" menu on the Norton Window and select the "e mail protection
option", then "Enable email Protection" then check Microsoft Outlook under
the Protect email clients,then Norton will not be able to catch those
rascals.
Note you should have your Outlook Express closed when doing this. Its
worked for me.
Ed Anderson
Matthews, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <john.bright(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jon Johanson |
jonj(at)writeme.com
John Bright
RV6A pre-punched, wings
Newport News, VA
john.bright(at)bigfoot.com
757-886-1161
> Does anyone know of the email address to contact Jon Johanson?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV-List tank access gasket sealer |
Me too! 7+ hours and no problems! Aviation Permatex is made for this and
remains flexible and easily removed.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
Mark Neilsen wrote:
> I used cork gaskets with Aviation Permatex gasket sealer painted on both
> sides of the gasket and on the screws. (I don't remember the Permatex
> number, but I found it at an autoparts store.)
>
> No leaks in 4 years and 645 hours.
>
> An A&P recommended that I use this sealer to stop an oil leak on one
> of the through bolts at the front of my engine. It worked.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting gear leg fairings |
> I am looking for an alternative means of mounting the RV-6 Landing
> Gear/Fuselage Intersection fairings.
I used two screws, one in front and one in back, and platenuts inside the
fuselage. Take a look at http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/fairings.html
There are two pictures of the intersection fairings in there -- one showing
the finished fairing from the side -- you can kind of see where the screw in
front is. The one with the fairings still in primer shows (sort of) how the
rear part overlaps -- There's one screw in the back that goes through the
overlapping parts. To fabricate, I made the fairing then went a few
iterations with little strips of glass making up the overlapping part on the
bench.
Email me offline if you want any clarification.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~200 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sink Rate (was 10.8 hr report) |
>
> Ed - FWIW, I always try to shoot a stabilized approach at 65 mph IAS with
> full flaps on final to my home field. It really shortens the landing
roll,
> which is nice because it beats plunging over the cliff into the river at
the
> far end of the strip, but it's true that the sink rate with engine idling
is
> about 850 fpm at the beginning of the flare. You learn to judge when to
haul
> back, and you only get one chance to do it right. I have had to
straighten
> my tie down ring twice, out of maybe 500 landings.
>
> My main dislike about this "approach to RV approaches:" the nose attitude
at
> 65 is so high, you cannot see your touchdown point for awhile after the
final
> speed reduction coming out of the final turn, causing a powerful illusion
> that you are going to overshoot. Then the sink kicks in, you feel like
you
> are trying to glide on a manhole cover and you start feeding in power to
> compensate... I usually add too much. My second dislike: the way the
> airplane starts hunting for trim speed once the flaps are run all the way
> out. Phugoids of up to 10 mph amplitude are frequent, and mimic a gusty
wind
> condition on final. One learns to get out of sync with them and actively
> cancel them out. Do this wrong and you have a PIO. (Am I the only one
this
> happens to?) The 6A is a cinch to land on a long paved runway at 90 over
the
> fence with half flaps like Mike Seager taught me, but that won't do on
short
> grass strips. My $.02 anyhow.
>
> Bill Boyd
> RV-6A O-320/FP Sensenich
> Hop-Along Airfield - 12VA
> Clifton Forge, VA
>
>
Hi Bill,
Thanks for the information. I can see where in some situations that
the risks of a high sink rate is more than offset by other risks (such as
going into the river {:>)). However, 65 mph is only 7 mph above my
indicated stall speed with full flaps at gross weight. My personal risk
profile just would not let me fly your landing profile with any comfort. On
the other hand, it sounds like you have thought it out and know what clues
to watch out for. I have no problem with the aircraft hunting, but then my
C.G is way forward (at the forward C.G. limit empty - which adds to
stability even if it detracts from top speed) and then also I am not flying
at 65 IAS. Does your aircraft bob at higher approach speeds?
when I bent my tail tie-down the landing roll was very short. Guess I need
to practice short landings on a long runway a bit more. I imagine that a
AOA indicator would enable one to really nail down the approach angle/speed.
would like to have one, but just don't feel they are necessary in an RV
Thanks
Ed Anderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Virus Protection |
I looked for this feature... I can't find what you are talking about.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2001 7:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Virus Protection
Cy
I qualified my statement (assuming normal defaults). If you don't set
Outlook
up with the normal defaults OR have installed any of the many security
updates
for Microsoft, this feature is turned off.
Charlie Kuss
>
> Hate to disagree But Outlook what ever you call it does NOT automatically
> run VBS attached files! I Run Outlook Express, have for many years and
> although everyone keeps sending weird files, I don't open them and I
haven't
> gotten a virus yet.
>
> P.S. Some one from one of the many lists is infected with the "Snow White"
> virus. It comes as an attachment once or twice a day with many different
> extents like... exe,pif,vbs,etc. I just delete and go on!
> Cy Galley
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley(at)qcbc.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Sink Rate (was 10.8 hr report) |
>
>FWIW,
>A friend of mine with an RV-8/IO-360/CS tells me that he wasn't comfortable
>with the high sink-rate just as he cuts the throttle at flare. He told me he
>'fixed it' by not having the prop quite full fine on approach. According to
>him, this gives him much smoother landings and he can still pull the power
>all the way back. Again, I can't comment - only forward his words of wisdom.
>Well, except that his landings when I fly with him are IMO superb. He told
>me that both his RV-3 and RV-4 didn't sink quite as fast as the -8.
>Obviously, due to a heavier airplane.
>
>Are
Do his -3 and -4 have CS or FP props? CS props go to a much finer
pitch at idle than you will find on most FP props. So, the CS prop
will really produce a lot of drag at idle. This is even worse if you
have the fine pitch stop set finer than it needs to be. If they are
set too fine, they could possibly disrupt the airflow over the inner
wing, increasing the stall speed.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (mounting wings)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting gear leg fairings |
This link will show the installation of the Team Rocket fairings which
fit in a similar manner to the Vans parts:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/fairings.htm
Scroll down the page to see a couple of photos with the upper fairings
clecoed to the fuse in preparation for plate nut installation. The upper
fairings on my plane are also split at the trailing edge.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
==========================
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
>
> RE: RV-6 Landing Gear/Fuselage Intersection fairing mounting.
>
> Hi,
> I am looking for an alternative means of mounting the RV-6 Landing
> Gear/Fuselage Intersection fairings. I am not impressed with the
> suggested use of springs and safety wire as depicted in the manual. My
> fairings split up the trailing edge and I don't think the spring/safety
> wire method would hold it together well.
>
> I was considering putting one screw hold on the inboard side and one on
> the outboard side. The screw would go through the fairing into a
> plate-nut in the fuselage side or the gear leg cover. Has anyone tried
> either of these methods. I am thinking that a plate-nut mounted into
> the fuse side would hold up better but I would like to hear from some
> other builders.
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
> N442E reserved
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Sink Rate (was 10.8 hr report) |
You're right Kevin. The -3 and the -4 doesn't have constant speed props. The
particular case I talked about would only apply to the -8's with C/S props -
actually probably only to his -8 with his fine stop adjustment etc. As you
mentioned, they will all be different depending on airspeed gauge, weight,
technique and preference.
He also mentioned that the -8 stops much quicker on the runway but this is
of course also due to the C/S prop. Where he had to use brakes before with
the -4, he now has to apply throttle to make it to the same exit.
Are
RV-8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
Sent: May 20, 2001 10:43 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Sink Rate (was 10.8 hr report)
>
>FWIW,
>A friend of mine with an RV-8/IO-360/CS tells me that he wasn't comfortable
>with the high sink-rate just as he cuts the throttle at flare. He told me
he
>'fixed it' by not having the prop quite full fine on approach. According to
>him, this gives him much smoother landings and he can still pull the power
>all the way back. Again, I can't comment - only forward his words of
wisdom.
>Well, except that his landings when I fly with him are IMO superb. He told
>me that both his RV-3 and RV-4 didn't sink quite as fast as the -8.
>Obviously, due to a heavier airplane.
>
>Are
Do his -3 and -4 have CS or FP props? CS props go to a much finer
pitch at idle than you will find on most FP props. So, the CS prop
will really produce a lot of drag at idle. This is even worse if you
have the fine pitch stop set finer than it needs to be. If they are
set too fine, they could possibly disrupt the airflow over the inner
wing, increasing the stall speed.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (mounting wings)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Ramblings from a Long X/C |
I took my first long XC this weekend. From Cartersville, GA (NW of Atlanta)
to West Palm Beach FL. Something like 470 nautical miles. Maneuvering to
avoid weather and airspace added a few extra miles, but I still completed the
journey in 3.5 hours going South, and 3.25 hours going North. On the
Southbound leg, I burned 28 gallons, which was a little less than I expected,
but tells me that the airplane has a comfortable 500 nautical mile range.
I'm not sure why, but my bum was aching after 2.5 hours on both trips. I
pity Jon Johannson.
I never imagined I'd want an oxygen system, but at one point, I was at
13,500', keeping an eye on my watch (and fingernails), trying to get over or
around clouds that I estimate went to 15,500... Eventually, I had to put the
nose down and give up 5,000 hard won feet. To add insult to injury, there
was a 20 kt wind advantage at 13,500. Later in the trip, I was back up to
11,500 when a DC-9 went by on a parallel course at 12,000 and a mile off my
right wing. I imagine the passengers got a good look!
Speaking of altitude, I remember that the FAR's requiring oxygen are based on
absolute altitude. When I was "up high" at 13,500, where the density
altitude was probably 15,000, it occurred to me that my lungs probably
thought it was 15,000 feet too. Anyone care to comment?
Fuel pressure is an altitude related topic that comes up from time to time on
the list. Many people report that their fuel pressure drops signifciantly
after a lengthy climb. Mine does too, but after a long descent it goes way
up. It seems to me that what's going on here is that the pressure sender
must have a source for static pressure which is poorly vented. As the
airplane climbs, the reference pressure source in the sender doesn't equalize
as fast as the airplane climbs, giving an artificially high reference
pressure. This causes a low fuel pressure reading. On the way back down,
the situation is reversed, with the reference source being underpressurized,
and leading to an incorrect (high) fuel pressure reading.
One more thing... If you expect to use box fans to ventilate your paint
booth, this is the best time of year to buy 'em. I needed a couple of box
fans late last summer, and the stores (even the BIG discount chains) were
completely out.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Guns and bucking bars, was "Rudder skin repair" |
Thanks, Russ. I tried backriveting it today, and it worked just fine. I am
embarrassed that I didn't realize earlier that there is so much inertia in
that mass of aluminum and steel that of course it is not going to bounce the
bucking bar with my little 2x rivet gun beating on the outside.
Terry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2001 3:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rivet Guns and bucking bars, was "Rudder skin repair"
>
> Terry,
>
> One common solution there is to use structural screws with small all-metal
> locknuts. They can be dimpled/countersunk fine and seem to be a great way
> to pull all the layers together at the corners.
>
> Aloha,
>
> Russ
> Maui
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sink Rate (was 10.8 hr report) |
When talking about sink rate, you need one more piece of the pruzzle.
What type of prop is on the airplane. A fixed pitch, wood or metal, still
provides thrust at idle. A constant speed prop can act as a speed brake,
i.e., there may be no or almost no thrust at idle and lots more drag. The
effect is a much increased sink rate. Boyd, who started this tread, has a
constant speed equiped aircraft and therefore has a higher sink rate at
idle. By carrying power on final, the sink rate can be reduced.
My thought would be to find the airspeed you want to fly final at and then
adjust the power to cause the sink rate you want too.
Tom Gummo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "drjoe" <colizoli(at)starband.net> |
Copy the missing files off another computer onto a disk then paste into the
appropiate folder(s)...on your machine.
drjoe
PS. Testing for an attachment with this email. If an attaachment is
present...DO NOT OPEN and inform me please.
drjoe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2001 9:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: virus vdx
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2001 3:39 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: virus vdx
>
>
> >
> > Dear listers:
> > I week ago a lister gave instructions to remove a program or string
> relating
> > to virtual device drivers so viruses couldn't be activated, I did as he
> > suggested not thinking the results. Well, I was downloading a fix to a
> > joystick problem today, and I can't open this program, because it keeps
> > asking me to "open with?". I know if I hadn't have deleted that program,
I
> > would not be having this problem.
> > if the lister remembers this incident, please respond off list. I need
to
> get
> > my Force Feedback Joystick fixed.
> >
> > sorry not rv related
> >
> > Scott
> > Tampa
> >
> Scott,
> I am not certain if you are referring to the same thing that I think
you
> are - or not. But, I renamed the WSCRIPT.EXE file in the C:\WINDOWS and
the
> C:\WINDOWS\VCM to WSCRIPT-NOVIRUS.EXE. based on a suggestion by someone.
>
> This apparently prevents the virus from finding and using the scripting
> capability. I figured I could rename the files back to their original
name
> if need be.
> If you deleted them, I don't know how you would get them back other than
a
> possible reload of Windows. Perhaps someone with more savvy about
computers
> could suggest an approach.
>
> Ed Anderson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Drjoe
I have received 5 emails on the RV list from Martin Heisler that also
had virues attached. Your e mail did not have any attachments attached so I
would presume you are clean.
Ed Anderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Listers,
This is somewhat off topic. How many of you have experience with taking a
pet along on a trip in your RV, or any other light aircraft for that matter?
My wife and I have a most enjoyable Yorshire Terrier and are wondering
about the pros and cons of attempting to take the critter along with us on
trips this summer.
I'm most concerned with the noise level and possible damage to the dog's
hearing. I've seen folks with larger dogs in light aircraft but have never
had the opportunity to talk with them.
Any veterinarian RV drivers out there? Any manufacturers of canine noise
reduction headsets? (In this case, a wee tiny little one!)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
207 hrs.
CLEAR PROP! WOOF WOOF!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | 10.8 hr report (digital airspeed/altitude presentation) |
This looks good but it doesn't include any sensors. Might want to chaeck
how much a full set are.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: 10.8 hr report (digital airspeed/altitude
>presentation)
>Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 16:02:44 -0400
>
>
>
>
>Listers, I want to jump into this digital instrument discussion. There are
>a
>lot of cool things for us experimentalists!
>
>I saw a new product at Sun-n-Fun which I've decided to put into my plane.
>Its the I-K Technolgies IK2000. I was planning on putting in the VM1000,
>but I'm going with this instead. Nice people, new and *cool* product. Does
>everything the VM1000 does, and a half-dozen more... for $1000 less.
>
>http://www.i-ktechnologies.com/
>
>jim
>Tampa
>FWF
>
>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>Anyone seen this new hybrid?
>http://www.aircraftinstruments.com/AITI_Instruments.htm
>
>This has me VERY interested -- might be the best of both worlds. I'd
>appreciate hearing from anyone that has any experience with it.
>
>Randy Lervold
>RV-8, N558RL, 10.8 hrs
>www.rv-8.com
>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>..
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Puckett <rv8er(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Mounting Electric Fuel Pump |
I'm getting ready to rivet the lower forward belly skins in my RV-8.
I'm using an IO-360 and have the Airflow Performance electric pump and I'm
wondering what is the best way to mount this thing? It was supplied with 2 large
adel clamps. Is this sufficient as a mount? The Van's drawings show a bracket
made from angle and a aluminum cradle welded to the angle. I don't have an easy
way to fabricate this piece. Does any know of a pre-fabricated mount for this?
I would like to solve the mounting issues before I close the forward belly skin.
What has everyone else done for this?
Thanks,
Greg Puckett (80081)
rv8er(at)concentric.net
Elizabeth, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sink Rate (was 10.8 hr report) |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Sink Rate (was 10.8 hr report)
Thread-Index: AcDh/tzVypDx4loETT2ZBLUIQLen0QAASu8Q
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Hi Guys,
On short final, I always look for a 300-400 fpm descent on short final,
and adjust power to make it happen. I also have the prop control
screwed out about a quarter of an inch, not full forward; I just leave
it from a cruise setting of 2400 RPM. The constant speed prop makes a
difference on your approaches. I go full forward and idle throttle on a
high, steep approach, but then I have to use quite a bit more power so I
can be in the right attitude to wheel land as the sink rate is really
high. I don't like doing that because my 360 backfires like a harley at
idle on approach. Airspeed can fluctuate 10 mph easily in turbulent
conditions, but is easily manageable.
This weekend I went 8 for 8 good landings, most with just a small skip
upon touchdown. Larry's right; every once in a while, I test the
strength of the landing gear by making an incredibly bad bouncing
landing.
I've found 75 mph works well on final, with a little power to stabilize
things and keep the engine warm, also helps prevent the stumble when
adding go-around power. Power back to idle about a foot above the
runway. 65 works well for short-field ops, but you're well behind the
power curve, and visibility diminishes. Anything above 80 eats up too
much runway.
That's what works for me. Your mileage may vary.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 136 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
Boyd,
Glad to see your response. I've been considering the EZTrim for awhile,
and your comment is the first report I've seen about it. Couple of questions:
I understand that the EZTrim uses the electric elevator trim for
control. From all the noise on the RV list about high speed trim rates,
I wonder how you have the EZTrim hooked up? Do you have a trim speed
reducer? How abrupt are the altitude hold inputs?
By the way, I like your last name, but you spell it funny.
Charlie Brame
RV-6AQB N11CB (reserved)
San Antonio
------------------------------------
> From: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Auto Pilot
>
>
>
> Sam--
>
> I have the EZTrim installed and it works very well. Chris Cady just
> lives up the road from me (well, about an hour). It marks altitude
> changes in 25' increments and since it senses relative, not absolute
> pressure changes, you aren't "required" to hook to your pitot/static
> line, you can just leave the port open to ambient cockpit pressure.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John & Teresa Huft" <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com> |
Brian, we have been taking our Siberian Husky for almost 8 years now. I
would guess she has at least 100 hours flight time, starting at 10 weeks
old. It doesn't seem to bother her at all, noise or pressure changes. Her
only problem is that I won't open the window so she can stick her head out
:-).
I know quite a few people who fly with their own dogs, but I would hesitate
to take a strange dog. Make sure your wife is with you the first time, in
case your dog does something unexpected.
jh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Denk
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 2:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: Pets in an RV
Listers,
This is somewhat off topic. How many of you have experience with taking a
pet along on a trip in your RV, or any other light aircraft for that matter?
My wife and I have a most enjoyable Yorshire Terrier and are wondering
about the pros and cons of attempting to take the critter along with us on
trips this summer.
I'm most concerned with the noise level and possible damage to the dog's
hearing. I've seen folks with larger dogs in light aircraft but have never
had the opportunity to talk with them.
Any veterinarian RV drivers out there? Any manufacturers of canine noise
reduction headsets? (In this case, a wee tiny little one!)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
207 hrs.
CLEAR PROP! WOOF WOOF!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
I'd like to preface this post by stating that I am a fairly new private
pilot. My unimpressive credentials are:
Private ticket 4/2000 with 60 hours
Current time 250 hours with all of the balance in my RV-4.
190 hours in RV-4 in last 12 months.
I give these numbers not to show what a great pilot I am. On the contrary I
am convinced that with proper training, currency and practice, even a
mediocre pilot can fly their airplane safely at the edges of the envelope.
I learned too fly my RV with a very patient and practiced instructor. The
FIRST thing we did was approach to landing stalls at 80mph.
Then we tried a landing. We used 80mph as a good starting point. With
power off (the only proper way to land an RV) my sink rate was too high for
ME to handle. I was intimidated. My instructor, Joe Gauthier suggested we
use some power on approach. We flew final at the same 80 mph with some
power. The sink rate was manageable and I got more comfortable. As time
went on, we used less and less throttle until I was landing with the power
off at 80 mph. At 80 there was considerable float on landing. Since I fly
out of a strip that is barely 2000 ft in one diriction, i started to
experiment.
First thing was to confirm the speed at which MY plane stalled. With flaps
down and power off, my rv stalls at about 47mph indicated. So, by
practicing slower approaches I still had a good safety margin.
(Remember that your instructor told you to fly final at 1.3 Vso, which is
61mph and I' wasn't planning to get even close to that)
On a fairly calm day, I flew a final at 75 with some power. It was much
shorter. Then once comfortable, I decreased power until my approach was
power off. Yes, the sink rate is intimidating, even alarming to the
uninitiated, but it is completely manageable. There is even some float left
at that speed.
Try it at altitude and you will see it is manageable, and you won't even
have the cushioning ground effect to help you.
Then I repeated it at 70 mph indicated. I'd consider this a maximum
performance maneuver. With the power off, there was just enough energy left
after the flare to stop the sink and settle softly to the ground. I don't
try this unless the wind is steady or calm and I am having an "on" day.
I have settled on 75 mph as my target final airspeed. At that speed I can
get the plane on the ground and slowed to taxi speed in about 1200 feet
without braking, about 800 ft with braking.
In summary, don't believe what I said. Don't believe what anyone says about
this topic. Go out and TRY IT FOR YOURSELF at altitude. Totally
unintimidating, with no risk to yourself or the airplane if your rusty. See
what she'll do on "final" (at 3000 ft) at 60 mph. See if you can arrest the
sink.
It is a great source of entertainment every summer when the "doctors in
bonanzas" stop at our airport after taking off from some large GA airport
like Teterboro, on their way to Martha's Vineyard, Nantuckett, or the cape.
First they come in about 10 knotts too hot and float all the way down the
runway. Then they go around and drag it in on the prop at the proper speed
to ensure they don't have do go around again.
If you're on speed the plane will take care of you if you are up to the
task.
Best regards,
Don Mei
RV-4
3B9 Chester, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 6:29 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: virus vdx
>
>
> Drjoe
>
> I have received 5 emails on the RV list from Martin Heisler that also
> had virues attached. Your e mail did not have any attachments attached so
I
> would presume you are clean.
>
> Ed Anderson
>
>
Same thing happened to me. So far, everyone that reported this virus,
including me, submitted something to the RV-list yesterday. Somehow the
evil thing seems to be sending to people who submit to the list. I
installed Norton Antiviral over the weekend, or I might have tried opening
the attachment thinking it was from one of the RV-8 lists that does allow
attachments.
The messages I received were a copy of something on the list, plus a note at
the end, "look at the attachment."
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Hi Brian,
Not sure how it might work in an RV but can tell you that for years we
hauled a St Bernard, Lab and small Poodle in our Baron. They were great
travelers. As soon as we cranked her up they would lay down to sleep. The
St Bernard got the floor by the 5th and 6th seat. The Lab and Poodle got
the floor by the center seats. Just within cg. Can't recall any problems
with ears etc.
Jack in DSM
RV8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Denk
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 9:13 AM
Subject: RV-List: Pets in an RV
Listers,
This is somewhat off topic. How many of you have experience with taking a
pet along on a trip in your RV, or any other light aircraft for that matter?
My wife and I have a most enjoyable Yorshire Terrier and are wondering
about the pros and cons of attempting to take the critter along with us on
trips this summer.
I'm most concerned with the noise level and possible damage to the dog's
hearing. I've seen folks with larger dogs in light aircraft but have never
had the opportunity to talk with them.
Any veterinarian RV drivers out there? Any manufacturers of canine noise
reduction headsets? (In this case, a wee tiny little one!)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
207 hrs.
CLEAR PROP! WOOF WOOF!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | RV-9A Fuel Tank Leak |
I have 2 leaks in my fuel tank that show up when filled with water, 1 at the
center of the BNC connector and the other at the center rib just back from
the leading edge on the upper side. I was aware of the BNC problem and had
used a connector with a solid center pin and put a lot of Proseal not only
on the connector but also on the wire itself so I guess I will open the
cover and redo that area.
Fixing the leaky rivet is another matter. Is replacing the rivet with a
blind rivet the only answer? Removing the baffle plate is a lot of work but
is it realistic to do that or cut an access hole in it and put a cover over
it afterward?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
Working on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com> |
| Subject: | 10.8 hr report (digital airspeed/altitude presentation) |
Mike,
You are mostly correct, but its an important point that I didn't make clear
on my last post. The cost of the I-K 2000 unit does not include all of the
sensors, but they do sell them and they'll put them all in the package for
you, or they will tell you what to buy so you can try to buy it cheaper from
somebody else. I have spoken to them at length about this and have their
price list in front of me now: Oil Temp: $29, Oil Press $49, Fuel Press
$49, Type K CHT $49 (need 4), Flo-Scan Fuel Flow Sensor: $179.
Thus you can see that even with the best sensors available, you are still
$800 to $900 less than a VM1000 (at its best price). And, this system has 4
independent chips so if one section fails, the entire system does not fail.
Also, this system displays a couple more items that the VM1000 does
(altitude, TAS, etc) and it is programmable for warnings for each perameter.
Obviously I've not been flying with one of these yet, but I will be putting
one in my plane. Even if it was the same money as the VM1000, I would
choose this... I think its a little better.
I'd love to know what others think about this item.
jim
Tampa
This looks good but it doesn't include any sensors. Might want to chaeck
how much a full set are.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: 10.8 hr report (digital airspeed/altitude
>presentation)
>Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 16:02:44 -0400
>
>
>
>
>Listers, I want to jump into this digital instrument discussion. There are
>a
>lot of cool things for us experimentalists!
>
>I saw a new product at Sun-n-Fun which I've decided to put into my plane.
>Its the I-K Technolgies IK2000. I was planning on putting in the VM1000,
>but I'm going with this instead. Nice people, new and *cool* product. Does
>everything the VM1000 does, and a half-dozen more... for $1000 less.
>
>http://www.i-ktechnologies.com/
>
>jim
>Tampa
>FWF
>
>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>Anyone seen this new hybrid?
>http://www.aircraftinstruments.com/AITI_Instruments.htm
>
>This has me VERY interested -- might be the best of both worlds. I'd
>appreciate hearing from anyone that has any experience with it.
>
>Randy Lervold
>RV-8, N558RL, 10.8 hrs
>www.rv-8.com
>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>..
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Lundin <rlundin46(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pets in an RV |
I used to fly on a regular basis with a woman whos
dog flew in the baggage compartment of the 182RG. The
dog was always happy to jump in and go for another
ride so it must have been working for the dog.
Rick
--- Brian Denk wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> This is somewhat off topic. How many of you have
> experience with taking a
> pet along on a trip in your RV, or any other light
> aircraft for that matter?
> My wife and I have a most enjoyable Yorshire
> Terrier and are wondering
> about the pros and cons of attempting to take the
> critter along with us on
> trips this summer.
>
> I'm most concerned with the noise level and possible
> damage to the dog's
> hearing. I've seen folks with larger dogs in light
> aircraft but have never
> had the opportunity to talk with them.
>
> Any veterinarian RV drivers out there? Any
> manufacturers of canine noise
> reduction headsets? (In this case, a wee tiny little
> one!)
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> 207 hrs.
> CLEAR PROP! WOOF WOOF!!
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Puckett <rv8er(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Inaccessible Bolts |
Hello everyone,
I'm working on the fwd belly skins on my RV-8 and I'm noticing that the 4 AN3-5
bolts that hold the floor skin(F-822PP) to the lower longeron( F-843) and the lower
firewall weldment(WD-803) seem to be inaccessible after the F-851 belly skins are
riveted in place.
Am I missing something here?
I really do not like the idea of having removable fasteners where I cannot
inspect/tighten them. I guess you could you could possible see them through the
(optional) lightening holes in the 802K z angle but I cannot imagine how you would
get a wrench on them.
Has anyone thought about putting the nuts on top with a 4 pos. bent tab holding
washer on the bolt heads at the bottom or am I getting just a bit too anal? (hardly
seems possible) :-)
Greg Puckett 80081
rv8er(at)concentric.net
Elizabeth, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ramblings from a Long X/C |
Hi Kyle,
I found your message especially interesting. A few weeks ago, I completed a trip
from Santa Monica, CA to St. Louis, MO and return via Hobbs, NM and Norman, OK,
my first long XC. My first two legs were flown at 11000 feet, but I didn't use
oxygen simply because I hadn't yet serviced or functionally checked my oxygen
system.
After servicing the system and tightening up a couple of connectors, I decided
to
try to understand better what my real oxygen needs are. I flew from Santa Monica
to Lincoln, CA (a little NE of Sacramento and due W of Lake Tahoe) at 10000
feet. Prior to turning on the oxygen, I checked the percent oxygen in my blood
with a Nonin pulse oximeter and found it to be 83 percent. I can't guess what
it
might have been at higher altitudes. I turned on the oxygen and the percentage
increased immediately to 93 percent and remained between 93 and 95 percent the
rest of the flight and during the return flight at 9000 as well.
An article I read on AvWeb by Brent Blue on the need for oxygen suggests, as I
recall (perhaps incorrectly), that a pilot should maintain a 90 percent oxygen
level in the bloodstream for best mental efficiency. I suspect this
"requirement" varies a lot among individuals. I'm 69 years old now, and in my
younger days smoked a pack a day for 20 years, so my respiration system may be
less efficient than many; on the other hand, I quit smoking more than 30 years
ago and exercise regularly. All in all, I'd guess that a person who lives
anywhere near sea level incurs a significant risk flying at 13500 without oxygen,
especially if one stays at that altitude very long.
Having the benefit of a pulse oximeter and a first-class oxygen system from
Mountain High probably shapes my attitude toward this topic somewhat, but I
intend to use oxygen at or above 10000 feet and from the ground up at night. I
don't usually fly above 10000 except on a fairly long flight. The cannulas I
have are quite comfortable to use; I am hardly aware of wearing one except for
the little pulse of oxygen I feel (and hear) at the beginning of every
inhalation. Over the long run, I plan to cross the Rockies quite routinely at
altitudes from 11000 to 15000, so I will use oxygen quite routinely as well. My
intentions may change over time as I accumulate additional knowledge about my
body's need for supplemental oxygen, but for now I intend to err on the side of
safety.
I'm leaving this week on my second long cross-country from Santa Monica to Taos,
NM; St. Louis, MO; Champaign and Chicago, IL; Valley Forge, PA; Washington, DC;
Dayton, OH; St. Louis again, and return. I anticipate using oxygen both ways
across the Rockies. Perhaps I can offer some additional observations when I get
back.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I took my first long XC this weekend. From Cartersville, GA (NW of Atlanta)
> to West Palm Beach FL. Something like 470 nautical miles. Maneuvering to
> avoid weather and airspace added a few extra miles, but I still completed the
> journey in 3.5 hours going South, and 3.25 hours going North. On the
> Southbound leg, I burned 28 gallons, which was a little less than I expected,
> but tells me that the airplane has a comfortable 500 nautical mile range.
> I'm not sure why, but my bum was aching after 2.5 hours on both trips. I
> pity Jon Johannson.
>
> I never imagined I'd want an oxygen system, but at one point, I was at
> 13,500', keeping an eye on my watch (and fingernails), trying to get over or
> around clouds that I estimate went to 15,500... Eventually, I had to put the
> nose down and give up 5,000 hard won feet. To add insult to injury, there
> was a 20 kt wind advantage at 13,500. Later in the trip, I was back up to
> 11,500 when a DC-9 went by on a parallel course at 12,000 and a mile off my
> right wing. I imagine the passengers got a good look!
>
> Speaking of altitude, I remember that the FAR's requiring oxygen are based on
> absolute altitude. When I was "up high" at 13,500, where the density
> altitude was probably 15,000, it occurred to me that my lungs probably
> thought it was 15,000 feet too. Anyone care to comment?
>
> Fuel pressure is an altitude related topic that comes up from time to time on
> the list. Many people report that their fuel pressure drops signifciantly
> after a lengthy climb. Mine does too, but after a long descent it goes way
> up. It seems to me that what's going on here is that the pressure sender
> must have a source for static pressure which is poorly vented. As the
> airplane climbs, the reference pressure source in the sender doesn't equalize
> as fast as the airplane climbs, giving an artificially high reference
> pressure. This causes a low fuel pressure reading. On the way back down,
> the situation is reversed, with the reference source being underpressurized,
> and leading to an incorrect (high) fuel pressure reading.
>
> One more thing... If you expect to use box fans to ventilate your paint
> booth, this is the best time of year to buy 'em. I needed a couple of box
> fans late last summer, and the stores (even the BIG discount chains) were
> completely out.
>
> Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
> RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I have 2 leaks in my fuel tank that show up when filled with water, 1 at the
center of the BNC connector and the other at the center rib just back from
the leading edge on the upper side. I was aware of the BNC problem and had
used a connector with a solid center pin and put a lot of Proseal not only
on the connector but also on the wire itself so I guess I will open the
cover and redo that area.
Fixing the leaky rivet is another matter. Is replacing the rivet with a
blind rivet the only answer? Removing the baffle plate is a lot of work but
is it realistic to do that or cut an access hole in it and put a cover over
it afterward?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
Working on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sink Rate (was 10.8 hr report) |
In a message dated 05/20/2001 10:04:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com writes:
<< Hi Bill,
Thanks for the information. I can see where in some situations that
the risks of a high sink rate is more than offset by other risks (such as
going into the river {:>)). However, 65 mph is only 7 mph above my
indicated stall speed with full flaps at gross weight. My personal risk
profile just would not let me fly your landing profile with any comfort. >>
I should have mentioned that my 6A stalls power off full flaps at 50 mph
indicated, so I am flying approaches at 1.3 times Vso. Fully loaded, I use
70 mph, but there is a noticeable increase in energy at that speed and
weight, which translates into more hot approaches, go-arounds, and longer
landing rolls in that configuration.
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Brooks" <kdbrv8r(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Jon Johanson's e-mail address |
jonj(at)writeme.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
We got some from Avemco. I know there are others but I don't know which
ones.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>
>
>I have been told there is construction insurance available...can anyone
>please tell me which one is the best to get...if there is one...thanks
>j. dawson
>RV8A finishing?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: 8A spar center section rivets |
Matthew,
I'm in about the same area you are and have been wondering the same thing. I
have read through the entire instruction set for the fuselage and can't find
it either. I have come close to going ahead and doing it, but remembered how
many rivets I have drilled out and passed. Maybe it is in the finish kit???
Bill C., RV8A fuselage, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 9:12 AM
Subject: RV8-List: 8A spar center section rivets
> --> RV8-List message posted by: Matthew Gelber
>
> I'm currently installing the floors and control tube in my -8A, and am
> wondering when I rivet the two halves of the wing center section (F-804A
and
> F-804B) together. I'm referring to the row of 12, 1/8" rivets that
attach
> the upper forward flanges together. The bottom side was riveted together
> when I put the skins on, but I can't seem to find a reference to this top
> row of rivets in the manual. Hopefully I didn't overlook it.
>
> I ask because I'm about to drill the bolt holes for the rear stick
support.
> Since the front stick support attaches to the front of the center section,
I
> was wondering if the rivets I'm asking about should already be in.
>
> Matthew
> -8A fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 5/21/01 8:57:02 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
don_mei(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
>
Your numbers match exactly to mine
Tim Barnes
RV-4 Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
Tom--
Your comments are correct. However, you can get around the "prop speed
brake" problem by keeping it in coarse pitch. You basically can double
your glide distance by going to coarse pitch v. fine pitch, if you're
carrying idle/partial power. But, you better make da** sure that you
firewall the prop control before you add significant power, as in a go
around--and the the more horsepower you have, the more you need to pay
attention to this. Bob Japundza mentions he keeps his prop control at
the 2400 rpm cruise position on final. That setting would seriously
damage my engine (2800 rpm, max), at 325 HP if I had to add power very
quickly. Blame it on those BMEPs.
My observations concerning newbie RV fliers is that they come in to hot,
at first, and then bounce, skip or float down the runway (this is a very
general statement, folks, and I know a lot of you can nail your landings
from the get-go)--then they start to slow down and eventually reach
"sink rate hell" and bounce/crow-hop down the runway, and maybe need a
prop replaced. Luckily, we don't have the problems that the early
Lancair folks had with approach turn stalls, inverted snap rolls and an
even greater low speed sink rate with their higher aspect ratio, thin
airfoils (shades of F-104s), until the company started its flight
training program--they were crashing their way out of business!!!
I don't mean to sound pompous, but if you're a low time pilot you NEED
to spend lots of time: (1) learning how to slow the airplane down (just
for fun, try the "Cobra" maneuver); and, (2) practice, practice,
practice landings--with/without flaps and experiment, experiment,
experiment with different power settings and get the "feel" for your
airplane's desire to come back to Earth. Also, experiment with your
tire pressure and practice one-wheel crosswind landings, even if there's
no crosswind--that really makes you fine tune the power setting.
John Harmon is a merciless pilot when it comes to using his C/S prop
attached to a high horsepower -540 and a lightweight modified -4. Rumor
has it that he can make the thing stop on a down line!!! (joking)--ask
Tom Gummo about his ride.
>
>
> When talking about sink rate, you need one more piece of the pruzzle.
> What type of prop is on the airplane. A fixed pitch, wood or metal, still
> provides thrust at idle. A constant speed prop can act as a speed brake,
> i.e., there may be no or almost no thrust at idle and lots more drag. The
> effect is a much increased sink rate. Boyd, who started this tread, has a
> constant speed equiped aircraft and therefore has a higher sink rate at
> idle. By carrying power on final, the sink rate can be reduced.
> My thought would be to find the airspeed you want to fly final at and then
> adjust the power to cause the sink rate you want too.
>
> Tom Gummo
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | >>>NOT RV RELATED - BUT GOOD<<< |
Hi All...
I got some new information from AeroPlanner today... They are really doing
some cool thing on their site now and I urge you to take a look... Just
follow the links below...
Later...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Munsell [mailto:mark(at)aeroplanner.com]
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 3:22 PM
Subject: RE: Premium PDF TripTicks on AeroPlanner - try it!
The whole thing - including downloading charts into Ozi, and unlimited trip
ticks, the advanced trip planner, etc... will be 99.95 a year.
I can't list all the stuff, but it's a bunch - like exporting your route to
your GPS, FS2000, etc...
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill VonDane [mailto:bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com]
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 4:15 PM
Subject: RE: Premium PDF TripTicks on AeroPlanner - try it!
Hey Mark.....How's it going?
This is REALLY COOL! You guys are doing some great things with this site...
How much is this going to cost me to subscribe to, and will it include the
option to download the data for my OziExplorer?
Thanks...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: info(at)Aeroplanner.com [mailto:info(at)Aeroplanner.com]
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 3:42 PM
Subject: Premium PDF TripTicks on AeroPlanner - try it!
Two weeks ago we launched a new product for only folks that have an account
on AeroPlanner.com - Premium PDF tripticks.
AeroPlanner.com users have created hundreds of thousands of tripticks over
the last year, and the number one suggestion was to put them all together
into one downloable file. So we've started with that suggest and built a
PDF package that combines chart panels, airport diagrams, services
information, METARS, TAFS, area forecasts weather plots and enroute NOTAMS.
Check out this example:
http://www.aeroplanner.com/temp/aeroplanner_example.pdf
To try the PDFs for free you must login first:
http://www.aeroplanner.com/signup/signup1.cfm
then go to the trip planner:
http://www.aerochart.com/mapping/route/index.cfm
After plotting your course, press the Download PDF TripTick Button!
Any kind of feedback is appreciated! Thanks much for using
http://www.aeroplanner.com
Mark
http://www.aeroplanner.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allen Checca" <achecca(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | step installation |
I'm having trouble getting the step flange to conform to the fuselage.
Any
suggestions?
Allen Checca
6A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
Vans just called and my fuse and finish kits are ready to pick up--I'm
waiting till next Friday to go over--now it's just time and effort---time
and effort---need lots more time and way more effort!!
Greg Tanner
RV-9A WINGS
O-320 D1A/CATTO
N80BR RESERVED
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: step installation |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen Checca" <achecca(at)concentric.net>
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 5:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: step installation
>
>
> I'm having trouble getting the step flange to conform to the
fuselage. Any
> suggestions?
>
>
> Allen Checca
> 6A QB
>
>
> Allen,
I placed my step flange inside the fuselage skin and had to file the
outside edges to a smooth curve to get it to fit.
Ed Anderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Morrissey, John (ITS, Limestone Av)" <John.Morrissey(at)its.csiro.au> |
Hi Brian,
A mate of mine used to take his little terrier everywhere, on the motorbike he
would sit on the fuel tank and in the RV6 he was quite happy laying down behind
the seat. One thing though, the owner used to use a Dog Car Harness like the
ones
you can buy from the RSPCA - check out the following
http://www.rspcashop.co.uk/cgi-bin/es_moreinfo.pl?ProductID=599603&charity=68
Cheers
John M in OZ
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jack Textor [mailto:pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, 22 May 2001 1:14
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Pets in an RV
>
>
>
> Hi Brian,
> Not sure how it might work in an RV but can tell you that for years we
> hauled a St Bernard, Lab and small Poodle in our Baron. They
> were great
> travelers. As soon as we cranked her up they would lay down
> to sleep. The
> St Bernard got the floor by the 5th and 6th seat. The Lab
> and Poodle got
> the floor by the center seats. Just within cg. Can't recall
> any problems
> with ears etc.
> Jack in DSM
> RV8
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Denk
> Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 9:13 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Pets in an RV
>
>
>
> Listers,
>
> This is somewhat off topic. How many of you have experience
> with taking a
> pet along on a trip in your RV, or any other light aircraft
> for that matter?
> My wife and I have a most enjoyable Yorshire Terrier and
> are wondering
> about the pros and cons of attempting to take the critter
> along with us on
> trips this summer.
>
> I'm most concerned with the noise level and possible damage
> to the dog's
> hearing. I've seen folks with larger dogs in light aircraft
> but have never
> had the opportunity to talk with them.
>
> Any veterinarian RV drivers out there? Any manufacturers of
> canine noise
> reduction headsets? (In this case, a wee tiny little one!)
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> 207 hrs.
> CLEAR PROP! WOOF WOOF!!
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: step installation |
> I'm having trouble getting the step flange to conform to the
fuselage. Any
> suggestions?
This is quite common. My solution was to move it around to get the best fit
then file and bend for final fit. The lower, rear corner is rounded
significanly. I also used flush head rivets.
Ross
6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | another Trojan virus attempt |
Everyone,
I just got another trojan virus attempt from an email I sent to the list
earlier today. His address is:
Martin Heisler" .
Look OUT!!!!!!!!
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ramblings from a Long X/C |
In a message dated 5/20/01 11:25:28 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
KBoatri144(at)aol.com writes:
> Speaking of altitude, I remember that the FAR's requiring oxygen are based
on
>
> absolute altitude. When I was "up high" at 13,500, where the density
> altitude was probably 15,000, it occurred to me that my lungs probably
> thought it was 15,000 feet too. Anyone care to comment?
>
Kyle,
I routinely fly at 13500 on XC's, sometimes even at 15500. I base this off
my individual limits. I spent 9 years on the Army Parachute Chute Team, the
Golden Knights and we had to do altitude chamber quals once a year to
recognize the onset of hypoxia. Your biggest indicator will be loss of color
vision and for me that would happen around 22k at 10 mins, and 27 at 2 mins.
I think if your in reasonably shape and your not doing push ups in your
plane, which is impossible in my RV4, your fine at 13500. I have flown at
that altitude on XC's for over 3hrs and it's nice to see a 7 GPH fuel burn at
2450 RPM and 185 TAS on a 0360. Again, keep in mind that everyone
experiences the onset of hypoxia different so use caution.
Blue Skies,
Carey Mills
RV4, 135hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Dogs in RV's: Vet advice |
Listers,
As an update to my earlier request for information on dogs in an RV, it
appears that it's perfectly fine to do so. I called the Veterinarian who
cares for our little Yorkie and he says that a dog's hearing will not be
harmed by the cabin noise and they equalize pressure inside their tiny
little noggins just fine. It's only a matter of their individual
personality (doganality?) as to how they will handle the confines and
sensations. A sedative can be prescribed if they get too wired, which
mellows them out for about 4 hours. Hey, I could use some of that stuff.
Anyway, I think we'll try a bit of taxiing around initially, just to see how
she (the dog) does in her (my wife's) lap. She (the dog) only weighs five
pounds so I don't think the weight and balance will be a problem! Now, just
gotta rig a harness so she doesn't get launched onto my lap in turbulence.
The dog that is...wouldn't mind the wife in my lap..but that's an entirely
different subject. *rimshot* ;)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
woof! woof! Grrrr.... Cleared for takeoff!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | another Trojan virus attempt |
Everyone,
Until this virus peters out this is going to be happening. Please don't
think it will ever happen to you. Sure you're careful you don't download
viruses. But your friends, family, coworkers do. And the virus will be
emailed to you simply because you are in someone's address book. You get
the attachment and think, "Wow, this must really be cool if Dad sent it to
me!" Only Dad didn't send it. Someone sent Dad something, and now
something sent itself to you!
The best thing to do is to make sure you have an up-to-date antivirus
program running on your computer. Just remember, if you get an email from
the rv-list with an attachment, it ain't from the rv-list. A discreet email
direct to the offender, notifying him of his infectiousness is probably
best. Though, you can probably expect another couple of infected emails
from him as soon as you send your email!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Robertson [mailto:mrobert569(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 4:17 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: another Trojan virus attempt
Everyone,
I just got another trojan virus attempt from an email I sent
to the list
earlier today. His address is:
Martin Heisler" .
Look OUT!!!!!!!!
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: another Trojan virus attempt |
I wonder if you guys are getting this from the list (no attachments) or from
having each others names in your address books from posts outside of the
list? Trimming attachments does not occur there.
Tim Bryan, CNE
RV6 Slider finishing kit N616TB
tim(at)bryantechnology.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 4:16 PM
Subject: RV-List: another Trojan virus attempt
>
> Everyone,
>
> I just got another trojan virus attempt from an email I sent to the list
> earlier today. His address is:
> Martin Heisler" .
>
> Look OUT!!!!!!!!
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: step installation |
Allen: I used a Body Hammer holding the flange against a 3 in. pipe. Hammer
the flange to slowly conform to the fuselage. Hammer, fit- Hammer,- fit.
You will take about 10 min. a side when you get the hang of it.
Tom (Canopy) in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: Allen Checca <achecca(at)concentric.net>
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 5:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: step installation
>
>
> I'm having trouble getting the step flange to conform to the
fuselage. Any
> suggestions?
>
>
> Allen Checca
> 6A QB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Electric Fuel Pump |
Greg,
I mounted mine on the floor in the space between the left landing gear tower
and the firewall. The large Adel clamps are sufficient if you anchor them
with a couple of K 1000-3 plate nuts and AN3 bolts. The lines, when hooked
up , tend to steady it more.
Bill RV-8 N48WD
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Puckett" <rv8er(at)concentric.net>
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 10:28 AM
Subject: RV-List: Mounting Electric Fuel Pump
>
> I'm getting ready to rivet the lower forward belly skins in my RV-8.
>
> I'm using an IO-360 and have the Airflow Performance electric pump and I'm
> wondering what is the best way to mount this thing? It was supplied with 2
large
> adel clamps. Is this sufficient as a mount? The Van's drawings show a
bracket
> made from angle and a aluminum cradle welded to the angle. I don't have an
easy
> way to fabricate this piece. Does any know of a pre-fabricated mount for
this?
>
> I would like to solve the mounting issues before I close the forward belly
skin.
>
> What has everyone else done for this?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Greg Puckett (80081)
> rv8er(at)concentric.net
> Elizabeth, Colorado
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | speedunlimited <speedunlimited(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: >>>NOT RV RELATED - BUT GOOD<<< |
For any of the Pilots that are into Remote Control airplanes. Great
Planes has just released the RV-4 in kit form. They will be
available around the June timeframe from
http://www.towerhobbies.com/ for $99.99. I would imagine that
sometime in the future the RV-6 and remaining RV models will be
available also.
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | another Trojan virus attempt |
No, once the virus has infected your system, it automatically replies to any
incoming email. Also looks up addresses in your address book and send
itself to those addresses.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Bryan [mailto:timbryan(at)oregontrail.net]
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 5:01 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: another Trojan virus attempt
I wonder if you guys are getting this from the list (no
attachments) or from
having each others names in your address books from posts
outside of the
list? Trimming attachments does not occur there.
Tim Bryan, CNE
RV6 Slider finishing kit N616TB
tim(at)bryantechnology.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
To:
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 4:16 PM
Subject: RV-List: another Trojan virus attempt
>
> Everyone,
>
> I just got another trojan virus attempt from an email I
sent to the list
> earlier today. His address is:
> Martin Heisler" .
>
> Look OUT!!!!!!!!
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 10.8 hr report (digital airspeed/altitude presentation) |
How about visibility in bright sunlight?
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com>
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 9:13 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: 10.8 hr report (digital airspeed/altitude
presentation)
>
>
> Mike,
> You are mostly correct, but its an important point that I didn't make
clear
> on my last post. The cost of the I-K 2000 unit does not include all of the
> sensors, but they do sell them and they'll put them all in the package for
> you, or they will tell you what to buy so you can try to buy it cheaper
from
> somebody else. I have spoken to them at length about this and have their
> price list in front of me now: Oil Temp: $29, Oil Press $49, Fuel Press
> $49, Type K CHT $49 (need 4), Flo-Scan Fuel Flow Sensor: $179.
>
> Thus you can see that even with the best sensors available, you are still
> $800 to $900 less than a VM1000 (at its best price). And, this system has
4
> independent chips so if one section fails, the entire system does not
fail.
> Also, this system displays a couple more items that the VM1000 does
> (altitude, TAS, etc) and it is programmable for warnings for each
perameter.
>
> Obviously I've not been flying with one of these yet, but I will be
putting
> one in my plane. Even if it was the same money as the VM1000, I would
> choose this... I think its a little better.
>
> I'd love to know what others think about this item.
>
> jim
> Tampa
>
>
> This looks good but it doesn't include any sensors. Might want to chaeck
> how much a full set are.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A
>
>
> >From: "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: RE: RV-List: 10.8 hr report (digital airspeed/altitude
> >presentation)
> >Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 16:02:44 -0400
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Listers, I want to jump into this digital instrument discussion. There
are
> >a
> >lot of cool things for us experimentalists!
> >
> >I saw a new product at Sun-n-Fun which I've decided to put into my plane.
> >Its the I-K Technolgies IK2000. I was planning on putting in the
VM1000,
> >but I'm going with this instead. Nice people, new and *cool* product.
Does
> >everything the VM1000 does, and a half-dozen more... for $1000 less.
> >
> >http://www.i-ktechnologies.com/
> >
> >jim
> >Tampa
> >FWF
> >
> >
>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >Anyone seen this new hybrid?
> >http://www.aircraftinstruments.com/AITI_Instruments.htm
> >
> >This has me VERY interested -- might be the best of both worlds. I'd
> >appreciate hearing from anyone that has any experience with it.
> >
> >Randy Lervold
> >RV-8, N558RL, 10.8 hrs
> >www.rv-8.com
> >
> > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>..
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: another Trojan virus attempt |
I'm convinced that it is coming from posts to this list. I have never sent
to or received email from the person who's computer is sending the virus,
but I have EVERY time recently that I have posted to this list. I expect I
will this time too.
Don't open attachments from people you don't know, or now perhaps even from
people you aren't expecting them from!
Terry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net>
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 5:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: another Trojan virus attempt
>
> I wonder if you guys are getting this from the list (no attachments) or
from
> having each others names in your address books from posts outside of the
> list? Trimming attachments does not occur there.
>
> Tim Bryan, CNE
> RV6 Slider finishing kit N616TB
> tim(at)bryantechnology.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 4:16 PM
> Subject: RV-List: another Trojan virus attempt
>
>
> >
> > Everyone,
> >
> > I just got another trojan virus attempt from an email I sent to the list
> > earlier today. His address is:
> > Martin Heisler" .
> >
> > Look OUT!!!!!!!!
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> > RV-8A
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
Listers,
Does anyone know this Martin Hiesler or seen him on the list before?
He had some items post for sale on here. Just wondering if he's for
real or not.
Jim D.
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ramblings from a Long X/C |
Just a friendly reminder for anyone that is flying their RVs at a altitude
above 12,500 ft.
Jerry Springer
Sec. 91.211 Supplemental oxygen.
(a) General. No person may operate a civil aircraft of U.S. registry--
(1) At cabin pressure altitudes above 12,500 feet (MSL) up to and including
14,000 feet (MSL) unless the required minimum flight crew is provided with
and uses supplemental oxygen for that part of the flight at those altitudes
that is of more than 30 minutes duration;
(2) At cabin pressure altitudes above 14,000 feet (MSL) unless the required
minimum flight crew is provided with and uses supplemental
oxygen during the entire flight time at those altitudes; and
Rvmils(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 5/20/01 11:25:28 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> KBoatri144(at)aol.com writes:
>
> > Speaking of altitude, I remember that the FAR's requiring oxygen are based
> on
> >
> > absolute altitude. When I was "up high" at 13,500, where the density
> > altitude was probably 15,000, it occurred to me that my lungs probably
> > thought it was 15,000 feet too. Anyone care to comment?
> >
> Kyle,
> I routinely fly at 13500 on XC's, sometimes even at 15500. I base this off
> my individual limits. I spent 9 years on the Army Parachute Chute Team, the
> Golden Knights and we had to do altitude chamber quals once a year to
> recognize the onset of hypoxia. Your biggest indicator will be loss of color
> vision and for me that would happen around 22k at 10 mins, and 27 at 2 mins.
> I think if your in reasonably shape and your not doing push ups in your
> plane, which is impossible in my RV4, your fine at 13500. I have flown at
> that altitude on XC's for over 3hrs and it's nice to see a 7 GPH fuel burn at
> 2450 RPM and 185 TAS on a 0360. Again, keep in mind that everyone
> experiences the onset of hypoxia different so use caution.
> Blue Skies,
> Carey Mills
> RV4, 135hrs
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | a better rv 4 link (RC) |
http://www.greatplanes.com/airplanes/gpma0180.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Streit <wooody98(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder skin repair |
Peter, Just proseal a stiffener on the inside. rivets are not necessary
Jim Streit 90073 flaps
PeterHunt1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Ouch! Ouch!
>
> I accidentally creased my rudder skin while installing stiffeners. I worked
> the one-inch long crease out with my fingers until it was hardly noticeable.
> But then I laid it on my back riveting plate thinking I could hammer the rest
> of the crease out. Instead, I stretched the skin slightly. Now this
> stretched area, about the size of a quarter, can be popped in and out about
> 1/16 th of an inch with slight finger pressure. (1) I can add a three-inch
> stiffener to eliminate this oil canning, but this means three rivets where
> there shouldn't be any. (2) I can glue a strip of aluminum on the inside of
> the skin, but precisely what glue should I use. (3) I can let it go until
> finish painting and fill the ever so slight indentation with body filler.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Pete - RV-6
> Completing empennage
> Clearwater, FL
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
Listers,
First thanks to Marty for clearing his virus. Just got an e-mail from
him and it was clean (free of attachments) Thanks Russ for confirming
that Marty was trying to sell stuff.
The reason I asked for conformation was our shop e-mail got cloned
several years ago and someone was e-mailing everyone with viruses using
our address. kinda bad for business if you know what I mean. Just
don't open any attachments unless you know the folks and know it's
coming I guess.
Jim Duckett
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
Makes a guy wonder what things have become in this country. Went to the
site that Rick Gray posted about this guy parting out his Avid rather
than take the risk of being sued by the new owner if he sold it
outright. looks like a beautiful bird from the pictures. Just wish we
could do something about this liability thing...common sense maybe.
Wow! What a concept!
Jim D.
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ramblings from a Long X/C |
> Speaking of altitude, I remember that the FAR's requiring oxygen are based
on
> absolute altitude. When I was "up high" at 13,500, where the density
> altitude was probably 15,000, it occurred to me that my lungs probably
> thought it was 15,000 feet too. Anyone care to comment?
One time I was flying in a C-182 at 14,500 feet. Don't know the density
altitude but it was warm so it was certainly higher. Was on oxygen but was
having trouble focusing on the instruments and focusing my mind in general.
I kept checking the flow meter and it looked right. I finally said something
like "I can't think straight" to my copilot, and he said "Well, turn up your
oxygen!" I wasn't even thinking clearly enough to do that -- just fixated
on the fact that the gauge looked right so what could it be? Turned it up
and was fine within a few minutes.
A factor probably was that I'd flown at this altitude more than once and had
also hiked close to that altitude without oxygen and never had a problem.
That experience sure did open my eyes to the dangers of hypoxia!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~200 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Product review- lycoming publications |
OK, its not much of a review, but I just purchased a couple of publications
from Lycoming and wanted to comment on them since a lot of people might not
know about them. I bought them on a whim, since I'd like to do as much of
the work on the engine as I can - I really don't trust someone else to do it
right.
You can get operators manuals and overhaul guides from buildersbooks.com,
and those are worth getting, but these two items are available only from
Lycoming and aren't publicized.
The first is part number BS-148, the complete set of active service
bulletins, letters, and instructions on all of their engines- $125.00
including updates for 1 year. It's just what it sounds like, but I had no
idea how big it was- it's a stack of paper about 7 inches high. Must be a
couple thousand pages, and there's a lot of good stuff in there. Certainly
worth the money considering the massive cost of the engine itself. A lot of
it covers engines other than the ones most of us are using, but probably
half the stack applies to us. I'd highly recommend this, even if you aren't
planning on doing your own engine maintainence- at the very least, you can
put it in the "reading room" and browse through it here and there- its
mostly 2-3 page articles. It doesn't come with binders- I imagine it'll
take 5 or 6 big binders to hold it all.
The second is the CD-ROM training guide to the IO-360. I'm embarrassed to
say I shelled out $250 for this piece-o-shite. Like their engines, it comes
with a service bulletin- you're supposed to do a duplicate install of
acrobat to "make the buttons work". So maybe that started me off on the
wrong foot, but it's really not that great- I was expecting something
fantastic considering the price. It totally fails to take advantage of the
computer medium- there's not much to it. Granted I haven't gone through the
whole thing but I think all the information could be presented in a 60-page
booklet for about $10. I'm returning it tomorrow.
Just thought people might be interested - oh, their number is (717)
323-6181. And S/H is $15.00, it took about 3 weeks to get to me.
Oh.... Maybe this never gets mentioned 'cause it comes with the engine? If
so please don't one tell me or I'll feel stupid for wasting the cash.
Matthew
8A fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Trutrak autopilots in the RV-8 |
I made an earlier incorrect statement about the trutrak autopilot
installation in an RV-8, so I wanted to post the true facts so someone
searching the archives will hopefully find this as well.
The incorrect statement was that the trutrak pitch servo was located behind
the left footwell, underneath the floor. It's not- instead, it's located in
the center section just to the left of the control tube, in the area that is
left uncovered. So if you read my post about how I was making the entire
floor removable so I could access the autopilot ... well, you don't have to-
it's easy to get at as is.
I've ordered the servos and install kit and will post a follow up in a month
or so after I put them in.
Matthew
-8A fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <n8rv(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: insurance |
Larry--
Hey, watch that ROOT CANAL comment, bub ... I take serious exception to being
lumped together with tax collectors and other sinners!
--Don McNamara
Ver-r-r-y slow RV-8 builder and dentist (who just happens to enjoy doing
exceptionally painless root canals!)
Larry Bowen wrote:
In my book, insurance rates right up there with taxes and root canals!!
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 fuse
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | ProSeal-Tanks-Rivets?? |
Just a quick question before starting my tank assembly. After reading the
401 hits in the archives, the manual and plans I have one dumb question.
When ProSealing the tanks, I understand that a thin layer needs to be
applied on each surface being joined, but do I need to place a dab of
ProSeal in each rivet hole/dimple also?
Thanks from DSM
Jack
RV8, tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
I'm no lawyer but I wonder if this guy is doing the right thing or just
being overly paranoid. Does the assembled airplane carry significantly more
liability than the individual parts?Anyone can sue anyone else for pretty
much any reason - like perhaps the used radio I buy from him fails to work
so I can't get a current weather report and subsequently crash into a
mountain.
I realize that he is technically the"manufacturer of the airplane" but even
so. I manufactured my work shop but I'm not going to worry for the rest of
my life that if I sell my house that some guy might kill himself in my old
workshop and then his family is going to sue me. In fact, I have been
repairing and manufacturing things my entire life. I have fixed toilets,
appliances, automobiles - my God there are people out there driving
automobiles that I have owned and repaired and modified! (I hope the brakes
hold out. Should have bought the premium linings). - So I guess am just ripe
for the picking.
Suing is one thing, actually getting a frivolous case into a court and being
judged liable is another thing altogether.
Of course I am speaking from the relatively litigation-free zone of Canada,
where we don't much put up with that sort of thing. (With the Canadian
dollar being worth what it is, why bother? Here, take my money. I'll get you
a wheelbarrow.)
Curt
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2001 12:18 AM
Subject: RV-List: Parting out
>
> Makes a guy wonder what things have become in this country. Went to the
> site that Rick Gray posted about this guy parting out his Avid rather
> than take the risk of being sued by the new owner if he sold it
> outright. looks like a beautiful bird from the pictures. Just wish we
> could do something about this liability thing...common sense maybe.
> Wow! What a concept!
> Jim D.
> RV-6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | ProSeal-Tanks-Rivets?? |
Nah... Even if you were to apply pro-seal sparingly to your tank ribs,
plenty will still slop onto the rivet. Starting your tanks, eh? You are
about to be baptized into the faith, brother. I plan to wear my pro-seal
stained shirt on my first flight...
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Jack Textor [mailto:pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2001 7:11 AM
To: RV-List (E-mail)
Subject: RV-List: ProSeal-Tanks-Rivets??
Just a quick question before starting my tank assembly.
After reading the
401 hits in the archives, the manual and plans I have one
dumb question.
When ProSealing the tanks, I understand that a thin layer
needs to be
applied on each surface being joined, but do I need to place
a dab of
ProSeal in each rivet hole/dimple also?
Thanks from DSM
Jack
RV8, tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | ProSeal-Tanks-Rivets?? |
Jack,
No, the proseal will squeeze out everywhere when you drive the rivet. I
did both tanks with less than one can and they didn't leak. If you use a
plumber's flux brush with the bristles cut down in half, you can "paint" the
proseal on the rivet line and that itself will get the proseal to ooze into
the holes. Once you drive the rivets, paint the shop head with proseal and
you're done.
Bob RV8#423
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jack Textor
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2001 9:11 AM
Subject: RV-List: ProSeal-Tanks-Rivets??
Just a quick question before starting my tank assembly. After reading the
401 hits in the archives, the manual and plans I have one dumb question.
When ProSealing the tanks, I understand that a thin layer needs to be
applied on each surface being joined, but do I need to place a dab of
ProSeal in each rivet hole/dimple also?
Thanks from DSM
Jack
RV8, tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com> |
| Subject: | ProSeal-Tanks-Rivets?? |
Jack,
I can say that by far the most important issue is that ProSeal MUST be
applied to BOTH surfaces that are being put together on the tanks. This is
really the ONLY issue. If you only apply it to one surface (as I did) you
will have leaks all over the place. I used plenty of ProSeal on the inside
of the skins where the ribs would hit, and then put in the ribs and riveted
away.
When checked for leaks several weeks later, they were all over. When I
called Vans, they said "oh yea, you have to put ProSeal on both surfaces".
DUH! I was forced to cut a 3 inch hole in the back plate between bays 2,3 &
4 on one of my tanks to give me access to the rivet lines to address it. It
sounds terrible, but it was actually the easiest part of the whole
tank-making experience.
Bottom line. Put ProSeal on both the skin and the ribs, then put the ribs
in and rivet them. There will be plenty of ProSeal gooping through the holes
when you do this so that you do not have to put ProSeal on each rivet... it
stands no chance of getting through this without being covered in black
goop.
As a final thought, once I figured out how to use ProSeal, I fell in love
with it. I use it for all sorts of things here and there on the plane. Its
great stuff.
jim
Tampa 6A
New engine came yesterday from Bart... a beautiful blue IO-360. WOW!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jack Textor
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2001 10:11 AM
Subject: RV-List: ProSeal-Tanks-Rivets??
Just a quick question before starting my tank assembly. After reading the
401 hits in the archives, the manual and plans I have one dumb question.
When ProSealing the tanks, I understand that a thin layer needs to be
applied on each surface being joined, but do I need to place a dab of
ProSeal in each rivet hole/dimple also?
Thanks from DSM
Jack
RV8, tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
Eric,don't let anyone kid you .It you build or even modify a plane you
set yourself up for possible liability. About12 years ago a gentleman in
Oshkosh told a horror story of building a kitplane and selling it.
Years later ,after it had been sold 4 more times,the fourth owner
aurgered it into the ground.His widow sued the builder,for manufacturing
a defective airplane.He spent over 50,000 of his retirement money
defending himself but he did not pay the widow.Now,lets see,the widow
gets nothing,he's out 50 grand,who do you suppose won?
Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Hypoxia is real. Just because you flew up high with out air once, or even
several times, and got buy with it does not mean it is smart.
I was flying a photo mission in the Rockies in a B-25 shooting a King Air
(the ones you see in Raytheon ads). We were working from 10K to 13.5K. The
other pilot was a Dr. and he had a Pulse Oximeter. Over the course of a
week we took turns without air and checked our blood ox levels. On one
flight I used no Oxygen at all. After an hour my nails were nice and pink
and I felt fine, but my oxygen saturation was pretty low. I don't recall
the numbers but the Dr. said I would not be thinking very well.
I was flying and proceeded to Santa Fe and screwed up a normal pattern for
landing and had to go around. It is pretty scary to think what would happen
if I was IFR and had an engine failure. That would require quite a bit of
physical exertion and some fast thinking to navigate among the rocks to a
successful outcome. Not likely!
If you are a flat-lander and slightly out of shape, 12,500 is no place to be
fooling around with out Oxygen for long periods of time.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com> |
Ever wonder why there are no lawyers on this list of great people?
Geeezzzz, let me think about that statement for a while...
jim
Tampa
Do no archive (in case a nice lawyer shows up some time in the next
decade).
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of BOBE.
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2001 11:58 AM
Eric,don't let anyone kid you .It you build or even modify a plane you
set yourself up for possible liability. About12 years ago a gentleman in
Oshkosh told a horror story of building a kitplane and selling it.
Years later ,after it had been sold 4 more times,the fourth owner
aurgered it into the ground.His widow sued the builder,for manufacturing
a defective airplane.He spent over 50,000 of his retirement money
defending himself but he did not pay the widow.Now,lets see,the widow
gets nothing,he's out 50 grand,who do you suppose won?
Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rpflanze(at)iquest.net |
Nothing like a good ole lawyer thread to get us off of the primer and virus threads
for awhile.
Since I have experience in this area, I'll comment. Mike Robertson was right.
My lawyer cannot find a successful litigation of an experimental builder except
in cases of gross negligence. As long as you don't represent the airplane as
something it's not, then you are not overly exposed.
Face it, someone can sue you for any reason they want. Most times, they just
want to see if you (or your insurance company) will rollover for them. Cut
your airplane up if you want, but I'll sell mine without a second thought of
litigation.
The EAA has information on their site about clauses that should be put into
a sales contract. All they really say is:
1) It's amateur-built
2) It's registered as an "experimental"
3) It's being bought "as is"
4) The buyer has been given a chance to inspect it before purchasing it.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (For Sale)
>
>Eric,don't let anyone kid you .It you build or even modify a plane you
>set yourself up for possible liability. About12 years ago a gentleman in
>Oshkosh told a horror story of building a kitplane and selling it.
>Years later ,after it had been sold 4 more times,the fourth owner
>aurgered it into the ground.His widow sued the builder,for manufacturing
>a defective airplane.He spent over 50,000 of his retirement money
>defending himself but he did not pay the widow.Now,lets see,the widow
>gets nothing,he's out 50 grand,who do you suppose won?
>
>Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greco4949M(at)aol.com |
Could you please take me off of the RVlist...but leave me on the Rocket
list.......Thank you very much.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AV8TURDON(at)aol.com |
You tell them Doug.........It's time these guys realize the importance of O2
at altitude
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | step installation |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Won't believe me, but put it in the vise & bend it to fit the fuselage.
That was one of the times I thought about selling her.
Don Jordan N6DJ 6A Arlington, Tx
*****************************************
writes:
>
>
>
> I'm having trouble getting the step flange to conform to the
> fuselage. Any
> suggestions?
>
>
> Allen Checca
> 6A QB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
No it's not possible we are a little hyper-sensitive to the legal boogey
man. It's plain you have never had an experience with a blood sucking leach
(attorney). To go to court and defend yourself is a very, very expensive
occurance. You pay the leach even if you're successful in your defense, and
those suckers (pun intended) walk away with a pocket full of your money, the
title to your car house or whatever they can suck up. Who wins no matter
the outcome? The blood sucker does.
It always amazes me how we continue to vote members of the Bar into public
office, watch as they make laws, then hire them to defend us from their
laws. Can you say, "Conflict of interest"? To me, it's like having the wolf
defend the hen house.
The only way to change our rediculous torte system, is to stop electing
leaches into public office. Then we need to revoke 75% of their licenses to
steal from the American working man.
Chuck (as he steps down from the soap box to go pound more rivets on his
RV9A fuselage)
> Has there been a successfull suit of an experimental builder yet?
> Personally I have not heard of one yet where the experimental status did
> not hold up in court. Loved the gyro company that was sued by a dead
layers
> firm/family. Not only did the experamental release hold up but a jurror
> bought a kit. A friend of mines dad lost his medical and actually cut the
> spar on his Kitfox and gave it to a restaurant to display. To me that is
> really going overboard. Is it possible we are a little hyper-sensitive to
> the legal boogey man?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
05/22/2001 02:18:36 PM
Except of course for our pal Al, who breaks his back to help out this list.
I'm pretty sure in the legal world he wears a white hat and rides a white
horse.
Eric
"Jim Norman, MD" (at)matronics.com on 05/22/2001
12:35:53 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Ever wonder why there are no lawyers on this list of great people?
Geeezzzz, let me think about that statement for a while...
jim
Tampa
Do no archive (in case a nice lawyer shows up some time in the next
decade).
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of BOBE.
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2001 11:58 AM
Eric,don't let anyone kid you .It you build or even modify a plane you
set yourself up for possible liability. About12 years ago a gentleman in
Oshkosh told a horror story of building a kitplane and selling it.
Years later ,after it had been sold 4 more times,the fourth owner
aurgered it into the ground.His widow sued the builder,for manufacturing
a defective airplane.He spent over 50,000 of his retirement money
defending himself but he did not pay the widow.Now,lets see,the widow
gets nothing,he's out 50 grand,who do you suppose won?
Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
Then I vote to keep him as one of the 25%!
Chuck : )
> Except of course for our pal Al, who breaks his back to help out this
list.
> I'm pretty sure in the legal world he wears a white hat and rides a white
> horse.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | windsaloft(at)rmisp.com (Terri Watson) |
| Subject: | capacitive fuel sending units? |
I am trying to decide if I "need" these.
Opinions sought.
I like simple, but I also like reliable. How are reliable are these
compared to float-type?
How much easier/harder are they to install?
What have most people decided to do --- use them or not?
Terri Watson
RV-7
Ordering wings, working on emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Tate" <tate(at)onlinemac.com> |
| Subject: | ProSeal-Tanks-Rivets?? |
Just brought home a "3" project and have a question on this subject. My
wing tanks were the early ones that had Kreem sloshed to seal them. Bad
idea. The Kreem has been all cleaned out now so the tanks are clean inside.
What is the chance of successfully sealing them by applying Pro-Seal through
the cut-outs to all rib-skin intersections and rivet heads?
Ed Tate
NW Oregon
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Norman, MD
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2001 8:12 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: ProSeal-Tanks-Rivets??
Jack,
I can say that by far the most important issue is that ProSeal MUST be
applied to BOTH surfaces that are being put together on the tanks. This is
really the ONLY issue. If you only apply it to one surface (as I did) you
will have leaks all over the place. I used plenty of ProSeal on the inside
of the skins where the ribs would hit, and then put in the ribs and riveted
away.
When checked for leaks several weeks later, they were all over. When I
called Vans, they said "oh yea, you have to put ProSeal on both surfaces".
DUH! I was forced to cut a 3 inch hole in the back plate between bays 2,3 &
4 on one of my tanks to give me access to the rivet lines to address it. It
sounds terrible, but it was actually the easiest part of the whole
tank-making experience.
Bottom line. Put ProSeal on both the skin and the ribs, then put the ribs
in and rivet them. There will be plenty of ProSeal gooping through the holes
when you do this so that you do not have to put ProSeal on each rivet... it
stands no chance of getting through this without being covered in black
goop.
As a final thought, once I figured out how to use ProSeal, I fell in love
with it. I use it for all sorts of things here and there on the plane. Its
great stuff.
jim
Tampa 6A
New engine came yesterday from Bart... a beautiful blue IO-360. WOW!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jack Textor
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2001 10:11 AM
Subject: RV-List: ProSeal-Tanks-Rivets??
Just a quick question before starting my tank assembly. After reading the
401 hits in the archives, the manual and plans I have one dumb question.
When ProSealing the tanks, I understand that a thin layer needs to be
applied on each surface being joined, but do I need to place a dab of
ProSeal in each rivet hole/dimple also?
Thanks from DSM
Jack
RV8, tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
Take this to heart.
The problem with hypoxia and carbon monoxide poisoning is that your
"judgement/self awareness" areas of the brain are the first to go. As a
Navy Flight Surgeon, I've witnessed countless people in the altitude
chamber who couldn't write or remember their name but stated that they
felt "perfectly normal". For smokers, current evidence has shown that
O2 is probably a good idea at 8,000' during the day and a definite must
at night. On long trips, many older people, exposed to toxic lung
conditions earlier in their life, should also consider 8,000' as their
O2 limit. This becomes even more important when flying IFR. Because
vision and judgement are the most sensitive indicators of hypoxia, even
tho I'm in "good" health and a non-smoker (quit in 1980), I would use
O2, at night, above 10,000' feet and at or above 12,000' feet during the
daytime--even though I did not feel personally impaired. On long
minutes before shooting an approach. It's just something you got to get
used to, like wearing safety belts.
Boyd Braem, MD
Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
>
> Hypoxia is real. Just because you flew up high with out air once, or even
> several times, and got buy with it does not mean it is smart.
>
> I was flying a photo mission in the Rockies in a B-25 shooting a King Air
> (the ones you see in Raytheon ads). We were working from 10K to 13.5K. The
> other pilot was a Dr. and he had a Pulse Oximeter. Over the course of a
> week we took turns without air and checked our blood ox levels. On one
> flight I used no Oxygen at all. After an hour my nails were nice and pink
> and I felt fine, but my oxygen saturation was pretty low. I don't recall
> the numbers but the Dr. said I would not be thinking very well.
>
> I was flying and proceeded to Santa Fe and screwed up a normal pattern for
> landing and had to go around. It is pretty scary to think what would happen
> if I was IFR and had an engine failure. That would require quite a bit of
> physical exertion and some fast thinking to navigate among the rocks to a
> successful outcome. Not likely!
>
> If you are a flat-lander and slightly out of shape, 12,500 is no place to be
> fooling around with out Oxygen for long periods of time.
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
> dougr(at)petroblend.com
> www.petroblend.com/dougr
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: capacitive fuel sending units? |
I am going capacitive. No moving parts should equal reliable. Down side
is the EI, very accurate and programable, dual fuel gauge is expensive.
Barry Pote RV9a Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "morganhetrick" <morganhetrick(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Keep Dialog Polite and Respectful... |
Keep your words soft and tender
so that when you have to eat them--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Deisel Engines |
Norman you might want to check with Continental Motors (334-438-3411), they
have a Diesel under development. It is a 200 HP four cylinder horizontally
opposed direct drive 2200 RPM two stroke. It is liquid cooled and it is my
understanding that the installed weight will be close to a Lycoming 0360. It
has been running in test for a couple of years now. I am not up to date on
it but it will be interesting to see how it works out.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 2:22 PM
Subject: RV-List: Deisel Engines
>
> I'm trying to get one of the engine manufactures to sell me a Jet A
> burning Diesel. I recently hassled Lycombing and they told me they are
> developing a six cylinder diesel of around 360 cubes and making 230 hp.
> This has to be smoother than an O-360. They said it will achieve
> certification in 2004. I have been asking if it will mount the same as a
> O-320/O-360. Still waiting for that answer. Is 230 hp too much for a
> RV6A?
>
> If you know anything new on diesels please pipe up. I want a new engine
> that is actually new.
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: capacitive fuel sending units? |
Terri,
The capacitive senders are easy to install, but never having installed the
other type I can't compare them. The downside seems to be that you are
restricted to a pretty expensive fuel gauge, although that may have changed
by now. I can't speak to the reliability, but it seemed to me that
electronic should be more reliable than mechanical.
Nice name, but you spell it funny.
Terry Watson
RV-8A fuselage
Seattle
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terri Watson" <windsaloft(at)rmisp.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2001 12:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: capacitive fuel sending units?
>
> I am trying to decide if I "need" these.
> Opinions sought.
>
> I like simple, but I also like reliable. How are reliable are these
> compared to float-type?
> How much easier/harder are they to install?
> What have most people decided to do --- use them or not?
>
> Terri Watson
> RV-7
> Ordering wings, working on emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Hall" <robjhall(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ProSeal-Tanks-Rivets?? |
>When ProSealing the tanks, I understand that a thin layer needs to be
> applied on each surface being joined, but do I need to place a dab of
> ProSeal in each rivet hole/dimple also?
Call me paranoid, but I did. I dipped the tip of each rivet in proseal,
then using the rivet I smeared the inside of each dimple before inserting
the rivet. A lot of it squished out when the rivet was driven. I also
covered the shop head of each rivet before closing the tank. May be
overkill, but no leaks after 2.5 years and hours.
Bob Hall, RV-6
Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ProSeal-Tanks-Rivets?? |
In a message dated 5/22/01 7:16:30 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com writes:
> but do I need to place a dab of
> ProSeal in each rivet hole/dimple also?
> Thanks from DSM
> Jack
> RV8, tanks
>
>
>
Most definitely!!!!!!!!!
Fred LaForge RV-4 180 CS EAA tech counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allen, Brent" <BAllen(at)uci.edu> |
Hello,
Following up on this last post, you might want to check out this pet
carrier:
http://webboard.aopa.org:81/upload/TabbyTote.jpg
Brent
-----Original Message-----
From: Frazier, Vincent A [mailto:VFrazier(at)usi.edu]
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2001 7:57 AM
Subject: RV-List: Pets in an RV
Pets in an RV?......
The obvious solution to having a pet taking up valuable baggage space is to
use the tie down rings, similar to what Chavy Chase did in National
Lampoon's "Vacation" movie.
Make sure to balance the load so yaw isn't a problem. You might have to
borrow a neighbor's pet if you don't own two of similar size.
With apologies to any thin-skinned PETA types out there.... it's just a
joke.
Seriously though, your pet may not enjoy it much if they have sensitive ears
due to altitude and noise. On other hand, wasn't it Roscoe Turner who took
a lion with him when flying.
Vince in Indiana
HRII wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-4 project for sale |
Posting for the owner:
=======
RV-4 project is available due to unfortunate demise of the builder. It
is for sale for $40K as a complete package to cover outstanding cost on
aircraft investment. Would not take someone long to finish as most of the
high time / high dollar stuff is done.
Airframe is complete and in finishing stage on the gear with instrument
panel and engine mounted. Includes most panel equipment needed (a list of
stuff). Engine is a fresh rebuilt IO-360 (200 HP) with performance work
(200+ HP). Includes custom stainless 4:1 exhaust, SkyDynamics Induction
System with AirFlow Performance Injector, SkyDynamics aerobatic magnesium
oil sump plus Christen Inverted oil system. Also includes B&C starter, B&C
Alternator. Cowl is light weight carbon fiber (Wilson design, Composites
Unlimited produced) specifically for the RV-4 and this engine. Cowl has been
professionally mounted and all plumbing fitted to installation. Package
includes a fresh rebuilt Hartzel CS prop and governor (short hub for this
cowl). The wings are done, I think the top skins still needs riveting
(allows easy inspection). Seats are Oregon Aero with Pacific Arrow harness.
Many more items go with the package (i.e. many finish items and more). This
guy knew what he wanted and this will make someone a ripen airplane. This is
a good value for the long list of items.
Contact Dr Hastings at: (360) 456-4496
=======
Mike Wilson, RV-4 with AIO-360 - getting inspected for test flight next
week. ==
Yes, I designed the cowling. The cowl on my plane and the one on this plane
are the only ones made so far. It is carbon fiber from pre-preg material at
Composites Unlimited. It takes a standard (short) hub CS prop.
No, I'm not selling the aircraft. I did know the builder and have some
history on his project.
I can answer questions on request, my Email is james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com.
I have pictures of my plane if you want to see what the cowl looks like.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Lawyers aren't the problem...
The problem is the citizens of this country who elect presidents,
representatives and senators who refuse to pass tort reform legislation like
every other democracy in the world has.
Providing one has not built irresponsibly, selling a homebuilt is a crap
shoot like every other enjoyable thing in the world. How many suits per
homebuilt sold? Not many. Nothing is without risk.
Alex Peterson
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trutrak autopilots in the RV-8 |
> I've ordered the servos and install kit and will post a follow up in a
month
> or so after I put them in.
How much do these cost?
Ross
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ProSeal-Tanks-Rivets?? |
> What is the chance of successfully sealing them by applying Pro-Seal
through
> the cut-outs to all rib-skin intersections and rivet heads?
This is one area that I wish I didn't have an answer. I needed to do just
this and used the technique folks were using to clean out the slosh. I used
a fly cutter to cut a hole big enough to get my arm through on each bay. I
then cleaned, roughed up and put a fillet of proseal along all seams. Then
I cut an oversize cover for the holes and pop riveted them on using LOTS of
proseal. My tanks pass the ballon test. Not flying yet.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy" <skydog-8(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: insurance |
If your root canal work is as good as the work I saw on your "8", then you
could tickle my ivories anytime.
Griff.
DNA
----- Original Message -----
From: Don McNamara <n8rv(at)gte.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2001 9:35 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: insurance
>
> Larry--
>
> Hey, watch that ROOT CANAL comment, bub ... I take serious exception to
being
> lumped together with tax collectors and other sinners!
>
> --Don McNamara
> Ver-r-r-y slow RV-8 builder and dentist (who just happens to enjoy
doing
> exceptionally painless root canals!)
>
>
> Larry Bowen wrote:
>
> In my book, insurance rates right up there with taxes and root canals!!
>
> >
> > Larry Bowen
> > RV-8 fuse
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
Well, by now , if we didn't know it before, we know that we might be
found culpable if we do something stupid, deceitful or something really
neglectful. We also know that we can be sued for any and everything, for
no reason. How about some insites on protective measures? We heard that
there is liability insurance, if you own for 5 years (?).
What about this..... I am thinking of forming a Delaware corporation to
own the plane. Does that do anything for protection?
Barry POte RV9a Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
A few years back a Rockford ILL. attorney gave a forum in Oskosh on
selling an experimental homebuilt.He said it could be a mistake to get a
type class repair certificate to do your own annuals.His
suggestion.---Get your first annual at a well established FBO or repair
facility. The following year do the same , only a different facility
maybe 50 or more miles away.Do this for 5 years .Now get your repairmans
ticket and do your own annuals.Now you have left a paper trail.---If you
sell and later on you tine yourself being sued for building a defective
airplane you have stacked the odds in your favor by having 5
professionals in the arcraft repair buisness signed statements that this
bird was airworthy.
Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | stereo headphones |
just when I thought I was running out of stupid questions....
I am planning my panel and am trying to decide on the intercom. If I get a
stereo intercom to listen to my favorite tunes, can my old Dave Clark's be
rewired to stereo? Can I use mono headphones with a stereo system?
my ignorance is boundless....
Kim Nicholas
RV9A wings
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stan and Pat Roberts <pastaroberts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: step installation |
Don, that step was a learning point for me. I didn't
want to bend the flange but that's what it took. I
clamped that thing in the vise and gently adjusted the
flange with hand seamers until it matched the contour
of the fuse. Turned out fine.
Stan Roberts, 6a, finish
--- Don Jordan wrote:
>
>
> Won't believe me, but put it in the vise & bend it
> to fit the fuselage.
> That was one of the times I thought about selling
> her.
>
> Don Jordan N6DJ 6A Arlington, Tx
> *****************************************
>
> writes:
> >
> >
> >
> > I'm having trouble getting the step flange
> to conform to the
> > fuselage. Any
> > suggestions?
> >
> >
> > Allen Checca
> > 6A QB
> >
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | stereo headphones |
Yes to both questions.
You can re-wire the headset if you like to make it stereo. If you like, you
can also just plug in the mono jack. You *may* only hear one channel
although in both ear pieces, but this can also be wired to work properly.
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Sent: May 22, 2001 7:23 PM
Subject: RV-List: stereo headphones
just when I thought I was running out of stupid questions....
I am planning my panel and am trying to decide on the intercom. If I get a
stereo intercom to listen to my favorite tunes, can my old Dave Clark's be
rewired to stereo? Can I use mono headphones with a stereo system?
my ignorance is boundless....
Kim Nicholas
RV9A wings
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Clearman" <dclearman(at)hotmail.com> |
Hey, just wanted to answer up and let you know that I am a lawyer/ builder.
It's been my observation that justice pretty much prevails. Of course,
that means that many people injured by the negligence of others ( including
mundane traffic accidents) receive nothing for disabling injuries. Too,
there are those who have done nothing wrong and expend large sums to prove
that fact. Our system works well. Usually, the "somebody told me" cases
didn't tell the entire story. Remember that for every $50,000 spent by a
successful Defendant there is a Plaintiff or his attorney who sucked up a
similar loss in time and expenses. It's poor economics to take a frivolous
case. Of course, only the other guy's case is frivolous! Mine, and I'm
sure yours, is ALWAYS just!! By the way, Doc....ever hear of a doctor
amputating the wrong leg!!! :)
>From: "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 12:35:53 -0400
>
>
>
>Ever wonder why there are no lawyers on this list of great people?
>
>Geeezzzz, let me think about that statement for a while...
>
>jim
>Tampa
>
>Do no archive (in case a nice lawyer shows up some time in the next
>decade).
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of BOBE.
>Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2001 11:58 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>Eric,don't let anyone kid you .It you build or even modify a plane you
>set yourself up for possible liability. About12 years ago a gentleman in
>Oshkosh told a horror story of building a kitplane and selling it.
>Years later ,after it had been sold 4 more times,the fourth owner
>aurgered it into the ground.His widow sued the builder,for manufacturing
>a defective airplane.He spent over 50,000 of his retirement money
>defending himself but he did not pay the widow.Now,lets see,the widow
>gets nothing,he's out 50 grand,who do you suppose won?
>
>Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: stereo headphones |
kim
i don't think the stereo intercomes play music unless you hook up a external
music source to them.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ProSeal-Tanks-Rivets?? |
One asked "do i need to put proseal in each rivet hole and ferd answered:
> Most definitely!!!!!!!!!
>
I was told the rivet would just squeeze it out so why do it?
Is there some experimental or even anecdotal evidence to support such
excruciating detail?
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: stereo headphones |
>
> just when I thought I was running out of stupid questions....
>
> I am planning my panel and am trying to decide on the intercom. If I
> get a
> stereo intercom to listen to my favorite tunes, can my old Dave
> Clark's be
> rewired to stereo? Can I use mono headphones with a stereo system?
>
> my ignorance is boundless....
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9A wings
> Seattle
I have a Pioneer AM/FM Cassette stereo in my RV-6 and have been flying
with mono David Clark H10-40 headsets for 3 years.
I purchased XL-25 Stereo headsets this year. I have not and do not
plan to re-wire my mono intercom for stereo in my stereo headsets.
The fidelity of the XL-25 is FANTASTIC in mono. Yes the Stereo would
be nice but I do not feel like re-wiring to accept it.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
798+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ProSeal-Tanks-Rivets?? |
In a message dated 5/22/01 8:45:21 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
kempthornes(at)home.com writes:
> One asked "do i need to put proseal in each rivet hole and ferd answered:
>
> > Most definitely!!!!!!!!!
> >
> I was told the rivet would just squeeze it out so why do it?
>
> Is there some experimental or even anecdotal evidence to support such
> excruciating detail?
>
> Hal Kempthorne
> RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
>
Probably not. However, the rivet holes and the seams between the various
parts are the ONLY places where the tank can possibly leak. I put proseal
under every rivet head, and don't have any leaks. That doesn't mean it would
have leaked if I hadn't put proseal under every rivet head, but it only takes
a few seconds per rivet, and could save hours of frustration in the future.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Trutrak autopilots in the RV-8 |
The install kit for a wing leveler is $1000; for a two-servo autopilot
$2250; for a 3-servo, $3250.
I was looking at the two-axis autopilot, which runs around $6250 all told
(though the prices just disappeared from the web sites, I hope they're not
raising them). This is for an autopilot that that can track a glideslope,
or hold a rate of climb or descent, and will level itself out at a chosen
altitude. An STEC autopilot that does all that runs around $10000 by the
time you buy the install kit.
The best part is, the unit is solid state- it senses rates of change via
solid-state electronics, it has no gyros or other moving parts to wear out.
See their website at http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/ttfsproducts.html
The down side is obvious- it's a new company and if something happens to the
guys behind it, it might be hard to get parts for it a few years down the
road. Seems a worthwhile gamble to me, though. Gyros are the devil's
business. The install drawings they faxed me (which I've since misplaced or
I'd post them) were very good, and they were great on the phone, a lot
better than S-tec IMHO. And, they have an actual install kit for the 8
which last time I called STEC they didn't have.
Again, I'll post a follow up in a few weeks after I get and install the kit.
Matthew
8A fuse
-----Original Message-----
> I've ordered the servos and install kit and will post a follow up in a
month
> or so after I put them in.
How much do these cost?
Ross
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
If you listen to the plaintiff, the builder is an irresponsible incompetent
.
If you listen to the defendant, the plaintiff has filed a frivolous suit.
So, how do we decide who is right??
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Which RV? - RV Poll |
Well, so far the majority of voters (24 votes) says the RV-7A.
For those of you who don't know, I added an RV-Poll on the Van's Air Force,
Ontario Wing web site. It's completely anonymous and you will only be able
to make one vote. I'm not able to gather addresses (if I can, I don't know
how) with this so your vote will not trigger junk mail - guaranteed!
I thought it would be interesting to see what an existing builder or RV
pilot would build if they were to start right now.
You can choose between the 3, 4, 7, 7A, 8, 8A and 9A. I intentionally left
out the 6's since Van's no longer accept orders for these. Although it's not
planned, I may send the results to Van's at some point.
Have a look if you like: www.ontariorvators.org . You don't have to vote if
you just like to look at the results once in a while.
I apologize if there has already been a similar poll.
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Which RV? - RV Poll |
are
i voted for the 7-a simply because there was no option for the 6-a . i don't
like the spar set up on the 7a , and if i really had an option to build
another, and the rv6a was still available, thats what i would do.
i think if you were to turn this info into vans, and you wanted an accurate
vote, include the rv6 and rv6a in there, it might convince van to continue
selling them.
just my 2 cents
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <glassman(at)tns.net> |
Brian Denk wrote.
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Pets in an RV
Listers,
This is somewhat off topic. How many of you have experience with taking
a
pet along on a trip in your RV, or any other light aircraft for that
matter?
My wife and I have a most enjoyable Yorshire Terrier and are wondering
about the pros and cons of attempting to take the critter along with us
on
trips this summer.
I'm most concerned with the noise level and possible damage to the dog's
hearing. I've seen folks with larger dogs in light aircraft but have
never
had the opportunity to talk with them.
Any veterinarian RV drivers out there? Any manufacturers of canine
noise
reduction headsets? (In this case, a wee tiny little one!)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
207 hrs.
CLEAR PROP! WOOF WOOF!!
From Rob W M Shipley.
Terrific question. I'm still building but when Steff and I go
travelling we would really like to take our pooch - an 80lb Shepheard
mix.
Rob. glassman(at)tns.net
RV9A wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <glassman(at)tns.net> |
| Subject: | Trim motor speed. |
Charlie wrote
From: Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: EZTrim system
Boyd,
Glad to see your response. I've been considering the EZTrim for awhile,
and your comment is the first report I've seen about it. Couple of
questions:
I understand that the EZTrim uses the electric elevator trim for
control. From all the noise on the RV list about high speed trim rates,
I wonder how you have the EZTrim hooked up? Do you have a trim speed
reducer? How abrupt are the altitude hold inputs?
By the way, I like your last name, but you spell it funny.
Charlie Brame
RV-6AQB N11CB (reserved)
San Antonio
Hi Charlie,
I'm still building so have not had the opportunity to test trim speed in
flight. Vans, (Gus I think), warned me that full bus voltage gave
rather fast trim changes and that I should think of some form of voltage
control. Have tried the servo with a 9v NiCad I had been thinking of
building a fixed 9v supply to the servo to slow it down some. Has
anyone else tried this?
Rob
Rob W M Shipley glassman(at)tns.net
RV9A wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Trutrak autopilots in the RV-8 |
Yeah the prices are gone, and wasn't there a DFC100 model? That's the one I
was considering -- just a simple wing leveler. It's no longer on the web
page. Wonder what's going on??
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Matthew Gelber
> Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2001 7:07 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Trutrak autopilots in the RV-8
>
>
> The install kit for a wing leveler is $1000; for a two-servo autopilot
> $2250; for a 3-servo, $3250.
>
> I was looking at the two-axis autopilot, which runs around $6250 all told
> (though the prices just disappeared from the web sites, I hope they're not
> raising them). [snip]
________________________________________________________________________________
----- Original Message -----
| From: | "BOBE." <RVPilot4(at)webtv.net> |
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2001 10:58 AM
>
> Eric,don't let anyone kid you .It you build or even modify a plane you
> set yourself up for possible liability. About12 years ago a gentleman in
> Oshkosh told a horror story of building a kitplane and selling it.
> Years later ,after it had been sold 4 more times,the fourth owner
> aurgered it into the ground.His widow sued the builder,for manufacturing
> a defective airplane.He spent over 50,000 of his retirement money
> defending himself but he did not pay the widow.Now,lets see,the widow
> gets nothing,he's out 50 grand,who do you suppose won?
>
> Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
>
This is one major reason to write your representatives to pass "loser pays"
legislation: and, if the losing plaintiff pleads penury, then the loser's
lawyer must pay. The nuisance suits would disappear in the dust; only
strong suits remain.
E. Buck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
The defendant. Because the plaintiff signed a bill of sale that stated that
the aircraft was amateur-built and that he was purchasing it as-is. If the
defendant *didn't* make the plaintiff sign said piece of paper, then he
truly IS incompetent and will lose his hide.
Unfortunately, as-is doesn't really mean anything anymore. It should mean
that the new owner either has the expertise to inspect the plane himself, or
can pay someone to do it for him. Even in the event of a gross building
error, the burden should *still* be on the purchaser, as he understands that
he is purchasing the craft as-is.
There are a lot of good ideas floating around on this issue, and I think
that another important one is that people should be held responsible for the
words they put their signature to.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)micron.net
> If you listen to the plaintiff, the builder is an irresponsible
incompetent
> .
>
> If you listen to the defendant, the plaintiff has filed a frivolous suit.
>
> So, how do we decide who is right??
>
> Hal Kempthorne
> RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Trutrak autopilots in the RV-8 |
There was a simple wing leveler which has disappeared...
Matthew
8A fuse
message posted by: "Larry Bowen"
Yeah the prices are gone, and wasn't there a DFC100 model? That's the one I
was considering -- just a simple wing leveler. It's no longer on the web
page. Wonder what's going on??
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
>
> The install kit for a wing leveler is $1000; for a two-servo autopilot
> $2250; for a 3-servo, $3250.
>
> I was looking at the two-axis autopilot, which runs around $6250 all told
> (though the prices just disappeared from the web sites, I hope they're not
> raising them). [snip]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | High voltage strobe wire size and weight |
The high voltage wires for the whelen strobes have three conductors inside
(two for power and one for the timing). They are 1/4" in diameter and are
surprisingly heavy- the 60' roll that came with my kit weighs 36 ounces.
I'm posting this 'cause its something I was wondering about while I was
building my wings but couldn't find it in the archives and was too cowardly
to ask.
Matthew
-8A fuse.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Electric Fuel Pump |
> I'm using an IO-360 and have the Airflow Performance electric pump and I'm
> wondering what is the best way to mount this thing? It was supplied with 2
large
> adel clamps. Is this sufficient as a mount? >
> What has everyone else done for this?
I used the two large Adell clamps. I think they were extra. Not flying yet.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Electric Primer Solenoid |
Guys:
My stupid question for the list. I have read the archives on the use of the
solenoid for the electric primer, its location, etc. What I have not seen
anything on is how it is activated. Can someone explain to me exactly how it
works? Is it connected to a switch, selector valve ......???? Thanks !!
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Plumbing & Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | stereo headphones |
Kim,
One of the nice features of the DRE 244e intercomm is that it senses whether
mono or stereo headphones are plugged in and adjusts accordingly. Works
great. It is a very high fidelity intercom, too.
Ken Harrill
RV-6, electrical system & instruments
just when I thought I was running out of stupid questions....
I am planning my panel and am trying to decide on the intercom. If I get a
stereo intercom to listen to my favorite tunes, can my old Dave Clark's be
rewired to stereo? Can I use mono headphones with a stereo system?
my ignorance is boundless....
Kim Nicholas
RV9A wings
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: stereo headphones |
> just when I thought I was running out of stupid questions....
>
> I am planning my panel and am trying to decide on the intercom. If I get
a
> stereo intercom to listen to my favorite tunes, can my old Dave Clark's
be
> rewired to stereo? Can I use mono headphones with a stereo system?
>
> my ignorance is boundless....
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9A wings
See www.rv-8.com/IdeasProducts.htm
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, N558RL, 21 hrs
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Electric Primer Solenoid |
Hi Len...
How I am going to do it is with a double pole, three position switch,
OFF/ON/(ON)... Down is off, center is boost pump on, top is a momentary on
which activates the primer...
Take a look at my wiring diagram on DWG6:
http://vondane.com/rv8a/panel/dwg_v3/n8vd_wdwg_r3_frame.htm
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Wiring & Finish Kit
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lenleg(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 6:29 AM
Subject: RV-List: Electric Primer Solenoid
Guys:
My stupid question for the list. I have read the archives on the use of the
solenoid for the electric primer, its location, etc. What I have not seen
anything on is how it is activated. Can someone explain to me exactly how
it
works? Is it connected to a switch, selector valve ......???? Thanks !!
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Plumbing & Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Primer Solenoid |
Lenleg(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Guys:
>
> My stupid question for the list. I have read the archives on the use of the
> solenoid for the electric primer, its location, etc. What I have not seen
> anything on is how it is activated. Can someone explain to me exactly how it
> works? Is it connected to a switch, selector valve ......???? Thanks !!
>
> Len Leggette RV-8A
> N901LL (res)
> Plumbing & Wiring
The way that mine works in my -4 is: the electric pump pressures up the
system. After it is pressured (which takes just a few seconds), I have a
momentary push button switch that I press for a few seconds and that primes the
cylinders, (three 1,2,4). What happens is the primer solinoid opens and lets fuel
through the primer lines. Simple, no fuel in the cockpit, all is contained in the
engine compartment.
Hope this helps. Carroll Bird Buffalo Gap, TX RV-4 160 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Primer Solenoid |
Len,
Here's how I did mine: I put the boost pump switch (breaker type) in
the row with my 'other' switches (near my throttle) in the inst. panel. I put
in a momentary switch for the primer solenoid down by the fuel selector
switch. The momentary switch is wired so it will only work when the electric
fuel pump is on. I also included a light that comes on when the momentary
switch makes contact...............this at least lets me know that power is
going to the solenoid. Mounted the solenoid on the rear of the engine baffle
behind #3 cylinder.
Bill Vondane's method looks good too............but I do like my little green
light :
)
Rick Gray (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm
please archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trutrak autopilots in the RV-8 |
Larry,
I saw a working demo of the TruTrak Flight System and met one of the
developers at the recent Twin Cities RV Forum. I've got some information
and price lists here and, at that time, they were having an "RV Special" on
the DFC 100, $2575 and the DFC100P $3975. I do recall them saying something
about changing the DFC 100 but I don't remember the details.
Best bet would probably be to give them a call.
TruTrak flight Systems, Inc.
Phone (501) 751 0250
FAX (501) 751 3379
1500 S. Old Missouri Rd
Springdale, AR 72764
http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2001 10:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Trutrak autopilots in the RV-8
>
> Yeah the prices are gone, and wasn't there a DFC100 model? That's the one
I
> was considering -- just a simple wing leveler. It's no longer on the web
> page. Wonder what's going on??
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 fuse
> Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> Web: http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Matthew Gelber
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2001 7:07 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: Trutrak autopilots in the RV-8
> >
> >
> >
> > The install kit for a wing leveler is $1000; for a two-servo autopilot
> > $2250; for a 3-servo, $3250.
> >
> > I was looking at the two-axis autopilot, which runs around $6250 all
told
> > (though the prices just disappeared from the web sites, I hope they're
not
> > raising them). [snip]
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Magnetos on toggle switches |
Those of you who have the mags on toggle switches, which one is active
during starting? I understand that only one mag should be active during
engine start, but can't figure out which.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Parting out (YIKES!) |
YIKES..............I didn't know I was an attorney! If you see me at
Oshkosh my hat is "Safety" green and a few listers have suggested a sexual
act for me and the horse they think I rode in on. (Any color!) Anyway, to
keep the record straight I am NOT a lawyer and the only reason I am stating
this is so I don't get sued for impersonating one.
Two other points I would like to make (since I'm going to get some viruses
thrown at me anyway for posting) are as follows:
1) I agree that there is an inherent conflict of interest in allowing
lawyers to make laws and I have preached this for 20 years at least to
anyone who would listen. (Not many people care, I guess I made them feel bad.)
2) John Fasching is one of the finest RV builders and pilots I have ever
met. I sat next to John at Van's dinner last year and spent quite some time
talking to him about several topics before the dinner. John is a real
gentleman and quality individual and if he happens to be an attorney then I
would say the profession probably can use a lot more like him. Before you
take any more shots at John, I would suggest you get to know him first to
spare yourself the embarrassment when you finally do meet him. Reading
John's post and knowing him you realize that he is as fair and honest a
person as you can ever meet. We can probably all learn something from this
man.
Gotta go plan a kinder and gentler fund raiser for this November so we
don't hurt anyones feelings........................AL
>
>
>Except of course for our pal Al, who breaks his back to help out this list.
>I'm pretty sure in the legal world he wears a white hat and rides a white
>horse.
>
>Eric
Al Mojzisik
InAir Instruments, LLC
Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI)
AOA and SO much more!
http://www.liftreserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
"aerobatic-list(at)matronics.com"
| Subject: | Re: Aerobatic-List: RVs for aerobatics |
A commercial or military airplane is never flown "to flutter"
because that is usually a terminal event and the pilot would only
survive if
nested in a nice Martin-Baker ejection seat.
Vc (cruise speed), Vne and Vd (max dive speed) are determined by
calculating wing loading excess at gust speeds of +50 ft/sec and + 25
ft/sec (FAR part 23). Generally speaking, FAR 23.335 says for normal
category aircraft, Vd = 1.4 Vc; utility aircraft Vd = 1.5 Vc; for
aerobatic aircraft Vd = 1.55 Vc. For most aircraft Vc is a little
higher than Va, but Vc needs to be known to confirm the calculation of
Vd. As a comparison, a 50 ft/sec gust is
around 3,000 ft/min or 35 mph up/down. Vc is the max 50 ft/sec limit
and Vd is the max 25 ft/sec limit. Vne is 90% of Vd. Again, I repeat
that flutter
does not have to be demonstrated and if the control surfaces are well
designed and constructed, flutter may not occur at all, even at speeds
100 mph above Vne. There may be other parts of the aircraft that limit
Vne due to other structural concerns. But, the FAA requires that the
plane be flown to Vd without any signs of flutter.
Also remember that the "limit load" is specified by the manufacturer (it
may be you) and the "ultimate load" is 1.5 x limit load. There are many
experimental aircraft that can and are built to load limits in excess of
those in production aircraft. Determining the V-n diagram/profile for
an aircraft is not that complicated. I have done it for my modified
RV-6. There are software programs available that will predict your
aircraft's performance and then you verify thru flight testing. If
there are major discrepancies, it may help you isolate a construction
flaw, change a design parameter or, simply, find a software glitch. If
your flight data is good, the software can help you confirm certain "AOA
speeds": max L/D, best glide, best endurance, approach speed, etc.
Boyd Braem
RV-Super 6
Brian Lloyd wrote:
>
> --> Aerobatic-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd
>
> At 01:22 PM 5/22/2001, you wrote:
> >--> Aerobatic-List message posted by: "Alan Bradley"
> >
> >Rick,
> >
> >My two cents on RVs: They are clean, like a Bonanza. That means they build
> >up speed quickly. Someone earlier mentioned that he flew one 100 mph past
> >VNE! Since it's a homebuilt, no one can tell what standard was used for
> >establishing VNE.
>
> I was the one who mentioned that my RV-4 had exceeded Vne by 100 mph. As a
> qualifier, I was not in the aircraft. It was the builder and someone else.
>
> >If it was a production plane, VNE would be determined by
> >flutter testing. Once the slowest flutter speed is detected, VNE is
> >established at 90% thereof.
>
> Are you 100% sure about that? I was under the impression that Vne was set
> by the designer based on calculated dynamic load factors and then the
> aircraft was tested at 110% of Vne (Vd -- maximum dive speed) to determine
> that there was no flutter at that speed. Flutter is not something you want
> to try to induce since it can be divergent and result in catastrophic
> airframe failure more rapidly than the pilot can respond. All they try to
> determine is whether there is sufficient flutter margin at Vne. The speed
> at the onset of flutter may be substantially higher than Vd so they just
> mark the area beyond Vd as "here be dragons."
>
> (Disclaimer: I am repeating this from memory and I could very well be
> wrong. I invite correction since I don't like to promulgate incorrect
> information.)
>
> >If you adhere to that formula in an RV, I would
> >doubt that you could survive an excursion 100 mph beyond VNE. Thus some
> >other method must have been used to determine VNE.
>
> That is what I was thinking.
>
> >Or the pilot must have been very lucky!
>
> I suspect that this is also true. The only sign of damage was a single
> spanwise crack along the trailing edge of the elevator. We built a new
> elevator for it.
>
> >Personally, I prefer to stick to production planes for
> >aerobatics. They are thoroughly flight tested. (I too am a very rank amateur
> >when it comes to aerobatics.)
>
> I think you will find that Dick VanGrunsven did substantial testing of the
> RV line. Their safety record is admirable.
>
> As to acro in the RV-6 and RV-7, Van's recommends against spins in the RV-6
> so that might be a consideration for someone. As I recall from discussions
> of spins on the rv-list a couple of years ago, the RV-6 winds up pretty
> quickly and the turbulent airflow over the tail results in reduced control
> effectiveness and a somewhat rough ride. I have never spun an RV-6 so I
> can't comment directly.
>
> The RV-4 spins nicely. I haven't heard anything pro or con WRT the RV-7,
> RV-8, or RV-9.
>
> Brian Lloyd
> brian(at)lloyd.com
> +1.530.676.1113 - voice
> +1.360.838.9669 - fax
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Knoll" <tripodcat(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe Try this address. BFK DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: Greco4949M(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2001 10:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: (no subject)
Could you please take me off of the RVlist...but leave me on the Rocket
list.......Thank you very much.
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCN44257(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Magnetos on toggle switches |
Steve,
The mag with the impulse coupling, generaly the left mag has the impulse
coupling. If both mags have impulse couplings, use both.
Karl Rigdon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Magnetos on toggle switches |
In a message dated 5/23/01 7:40:59 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
SSoule(at)pfclaw.com writes:
<< Those of you who have the mags on toggle switches, which one is active
during starting? I understand that only one mag should be active during
engine start, but can't figure out which. >>
The magneto with the impulse (usually the left) coupling should be active.
The other should be grounded. This happens automatically during cranking
with the proper key switch when the grounding shunt is installed.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Magnetos on toggle switches |
In a message dated 5/23/01 7:40:53 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
SSoule(at)pfclaw.com writes:
>
> Those of you who have the mags on toggle switches, which one is active
> during starting? I understand that only one mag should be active during
> engine start, but can't figure out which.
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
>
>
>
It is the mag with the impulse coupler.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Magnetos on toggle switches |
Steve,
If you are running dual magnetos, then only one of them will have an impluse
coupling. You can start with both "on" as the impluse coupling magneto will
be the "starting" one and the other one will start sparking as soon as the
rpm comes up. If you want to start on only one magneto then it is the one
with the impulse coupling.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>
>Those of you who have the mags on toggle switches, which one is active
>during starting? I understand that only one mag should be active during
>engine start, but can't figure out which.
>
>Steve Soule
>Huntington, Vermont
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Magnetos on toggle switches |
On my RV-6 it is the left mag, the one with the impulse coupling. Check
your mags, one will probably have a thicker "mounting plate" which is
the impulse.
Once the engine starts, I flip on the right mag. I really like the
toggle switch arrangement.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
---------------
"Stephen J. Soule" wrote:
>
>
> Those of you who have the mags on toggle switches, which one is active
> during starting? I understand that only one mag should be active during
> engine start, but can't figure out which.
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
I can't begin to tell you how un fascinating I have found this thread. It
seems to be so popular that you great opinionated philosophers and
apologists should consider starting your own list.
I sure wish you would. If you can't do that, how about growing up or
getting some other life?
Personally I would lilke to find more RV and building related threads on
this list.
Go ahead and bash away........ I won't be opening any more of these
messages anyway. ;+))
Denis L. Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCN44257(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Magnetos on toggle switches |
You should not use both with one impulse as the non-impulse mag will fire
well before TDC and will kick back. This can break starter drives and
housings.
Karl Rigdon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Magnetos on toggle switches |
Do not use the non-impulse mag when starting--switch it on after the
engine is running. Otherwise, you could wind up paying for lots of
starters and/or ring gears due to engine kickback.
Boyd.
Mike Robertson wrote:
>
>
> Steve,
>
> If you are running dual magnetos, then only one of them will have an impluse
> coupling. You can start with both "on" as the impluse coupling magneto will
> be the "starting" one and the other one will start sparking as soon as the
> rpm comes up. If you want to start on only one magneto then it is the one
> with the impulse coupling.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A
>
> >
> >Those of you who have the mags on toggle switches, which one is active
> >during starting? I understand that only one mag should be active during
> >engine start, but can't figure out which.
> >
> >Steve Soule
> >Huntington, Vermont
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | doyal plute <dplute(at)onemain.com> |
| Subject: | Engine baffles RV6A |
I am just finishing the engine baffles as provided by Vans. I am
wondering...instead of trying to seal top of baffles to top cowl with
fabric like Van shows... why not even up top of baffles bend over a lip
and put an alluminum top cover on with plate nuts to seal baffle
system? The advantages I see are: tighter sealing with no pressure on
top cowl, and better fire containment in case of engine fire. However
there may be a (gotcha) in there somewhere that I do not know about!
I would welcome any feedback from anyone who has, (been-there-done-that)
Thanks:
Doyal RV6A N4DP (res) 1003 hrs on project to date
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Magnetos on toggle switches |
What happens if you accidently use both mags while cranking?
-Larry
--- Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> On my RV-6 it is the left mag, the one with the impulse coupling. Check
> your mags, one will probably have a thicker "mounting plate" which is
> the impulse.
>
> Once the engine starts, I flip on the right mag. I really like the
> toggle switch arrangement.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
> "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
> ---------------
>
> "Stephen J. Soule" wrote:
> >
> >
> > Those of you who have the mags on toggle switches, which one is active
> > during starting? I understand that only one mag should be active during
> > engine start, but can't figure out which.
> >
> > Steve Soule
> > Huntington, Vermont
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lawyer Bashing |
In a message dated 5/23/01 9:20:26 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
> I can't begin to tell you how un fascinating I have found this thread. It
> seems to be so popular that you great opinionated philosophers and
> apologists should consider starting your own list.
>
> I sure wish you would. If you can't do that, how about growing up or
> getting some other life?
>
> Personally I would lilke to find more RV and building related threads on
> this list.
>
> Go ahead and bash away........ I won't be opening any more of these
> messages anyway. ;+))
>
> Denis L. Walsh
>
>
>
Oh great! now he has gone off the list. that means I will only have 102
emails to look at today
Tim Barnes
Meengreen Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine baffles RV6A |
Doyal,
I did just what you propose, 'cept I used S-glass/epoxy. No problems
provided you have proper clearance away from top cowl. Mine slightly touches
in some spots but no visible wear after 224 hrs. The plenum was the easy
part. That was a one day build job. Then I spend the next week figuring out
how to seal around the stock inlets on Van's S cowl. I finally have a good
solution that seals well and easy to install both cowl halves. My engine is
not super cool like you'd expect with no leaks. I have a new Lycoming O-320
D1A and it runs 200 - 210 C in cruise for #3 CHT. It's 220 - 230 C in climb.
At 230 C, I back off & cool down, so this limits my climbs. Fortunately, the
RV climbs so well that I'm at my "maneuvering altitude" of 4500' when this
happens, provided I started with a cool engine.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 Flying whenever I can.
Melbourne, FL
>From: doyal plute <dplute(at)onemain.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rv6-list(at)matronics.com"
>Subject: RV-List: Engine baffles RV6A
>Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 11:50:37 -0500
>
>
>I am just finishing the engine baffles as provided by Vans. I am
>wondering...instead of trying to seal top of baffles to top cowl with
>fabric like Van shows... why not even up top of baffles bend over a lip
>and put an alluminum top cover on with plate nuts to seal baffle
>system? The advantages I see are: tighter sealing with no pressure on
>top cowl, and better fire containment in case of engine fire. However
>there may be a (gotcha) in there somewhere that I do not know about!
>I would welcome any feedback from anyone who has, (been-there-done-that)
>
>Thanks:
>Doyal RV6A N4DP (res) 1003 hrs on project to date
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine baffles RV6A |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Engine baffles RV6A
Thread-Index: AcDjrM+fOI4pcQHDQoSRVM9s9AEBSAAABlNw
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Doyal,
It has been done successfully as you describe and if I had to do mine
over I would do it that way.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
-----Original Message-----
From: doyal plute [mailto:dplute(at)onemain.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 11:51 AM
Subject: RV-List: Engine baffles RV6A
I am just finishing the engine baffles as provided by Vans. I am
wondering...instead of trying to seal top of baffles to top cowl with
fabric like Van shows... why not even up top of baffles bend over a lip
and put an alluminum top cover on with plate nuts to seal baffle
system? The advantages I see are: tighter sealing with no pressure on
top cowl, and better fire containment in case of engine fire. However
there may be a (gotcha) in there somewhere that I do not know about!
I would welcome any feedback from anyone who has, (been-there-done-that)
Thanks:
Doyal RV6A N4DP (res) 1003 hrs on project to date
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Engine baffles RV6A |
What you're describing is a plenum cover--widely used and much more
efficient than the baffle strips. Mine is made out of fiberglass, but
the idea is the same. Go for it!!
Boyd
doyal plute wrote:
>
> --> RV6-List message posted by: doyal plute
>
> I am just finishing the engine baffles as provided by Vans. I am
> wondering...instead of trying to seal top of baffles to top cowl with
> fabric like Van shows... why not even up top of baffles bend over a lip
> and put an alluminum top cover on with plate nuts to seal baffle
> system? The advantages I see are: tighter sealing with no pressure on
> top cowl, and better fire containment in case of engine fire. However
> there may be a (gotcha) in there somewhere that I do not know about!
> I would welcome any feedback from anyone who has, (been-there-done-that)
>
> Thanks:
> Doyal RV6A N4DP (res) 1003 hrs on project to date
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine baffles RV6A |
| From: | james freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
on 5/23/01 4:50 PM, doyal plute at dplute(at)onemain.com wrote:
> I am just finishing the engine baffles as provided by Vans. I am
> wondering...instead of trying to seal top of baffles to top cowl with
> fabric like Van shows... why not even up top of baffles bend over a lip
> and put an alluminum top cover on with plate nuts to seal baffle
> system?
Don Eaves here in Memphis did exactly that on his RV6. AFAIK it's working
well. I have some pictures of his installation I'd be happy to e-mail you
or post somewhere if somebody will host them.
He did mention at one point rather than use 4 million nutplates he should
have used piano hinge... ;-)
James Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Magnetos on toggle switches |
And if you wired it right, with a double pole right mag switch controlling the
ground of the starter button. The starter button would only engage with the left
mag on and the right mag off.
Bruce
Glasair III
"Boyd C. Braem" wrote:
>
> Do not use the non-impulse mag when starting--switch it on after the
> engine is running. Otherwise, you could wind up paying for lots of
> starters and/or ring gears due to engine kickback.
>
> Boyd.
>
> Mike Robertson wrote:
> >
> >
> > Steve,
> >
> > If you are running dual magnetos, then only one of them will have an impluse
> > coupling. You can start with both "on" as the impluse coupling magneto will
> > be the "starting" one and the other one will start sparking as soon as the
> > rpm comes up. If you want to start on only one magneto then it is the one
> > with the impulse coupling.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> > RV-8A
> >
> > >
> > >Those of you who have the mags on toggle switches, which one is active
> > >during starting? I understand that only one mag should be active during
> > >engine start, but can't figure out which.
> > >
> > >Steve Soule
> > >Huntington, Vermont
> > >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Which mag has the impulse coupling? |
Thanks for all the replies. I compared my magneto bases and both appear to
have the same thickness. Is there any other way to figure out which has the
impulse coupling? (Maybe I'm not looking at the right part of the base.)
Steve Soule
RV-6A
Huntington, VT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Engine baffles RV6A |
Check out these two site for information on this:
http://www.homestead.com/RV8A/files/index.html
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/5379/index.html - firewall
forward section
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Wiring & Finish Kit
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of doyal plute
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 10:51 AM
Subject: RV-List: Engine baffles RV6A
I am just finishing the engine baffles as provided by Vans. I am
wondering...instead of trying to seal top of baffles to top cowl with
fabric like Van shows... why not even up top of baffles bend over a lip
and put an alluminum top cover on with plate nuts to seal baffle
system? The advantages I see are: tighter sealing with no pressure on
top cowl, and better fire containment in case of engine fire. However
there may be a (gotcha) in there somewhere that I do not know about!
I would welcome any feedback from anyone who has, (been-there-done-that)
Thanks:
Doyal RV6A N4DP (res) 1003 hrs on project to date
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James D. Ivey" <jim(at)iveylaw.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Engine baffles RV6A |
> Don Eaves here in Memphis did exactly that on his RV6. AFAIK
> it's working
> well. I have some pictures of his installation I'd be happy
> to e-mail you
> or post somewhere if somebody will host them.
There's also www.zing.com, www.photoworks.com, www.ofoto.com,
www.shutterfly.com, www.idrive.com, etc.
I'd love to see the pics. Does the baffle interfere with preflight
inspections?
Jim Ivey
jim(at)iveylaw.com;
Oakland, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Engine baffles RV6A |
Gary did something similar to what you describe (I think). I was kind of waiting
to see if he responded - Gary? you out there? Anyway, you can check it out
at his wedsite at:
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/5379/index.html
Click on Firewall Forward and scroll down.
Eric Newton - Long Beach. MS
RV-6A (Cowl)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine baffles RV6A |
Should work just fine. Lots of others doing this same thing. Dave Anderts
for one.
One gotcha. Access to the top spark plugs.
Jim Ayers
LessDragProds(at)aol.com
RV-3 N47RV LOM M332A (Engine "airbox" mounted on the engine separate from
cowl; standard from the factory. Sliding plate provides direct access to the
sparkplugs.)
In a message dated 05/23/2001 9:55:42 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
dplute(at)onemain.com writes:
>
> I am just finishing the engine baffles as provided by Vans. I am
> wondering...instead of trying to seal top of baffles to top cowl with
> fabric like Van shows... why not even up top of baffles bend over a lip
> and put an alluminum top cover on with plate nuts to seal baffle
> system? The advantages I see are: tighter sealing with no pressure on
> top cowl, and better fire containment in case of engine fire. However
> there may be a (gotcha) in there somewhere that I do not know about!
> I would welcome any feedback from anyone who has, (been-there-done-that)
>
> Thanks:
> Doyal RV6A N4DP (res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com> |
| Subject: | Toggle Switch for Electronic vs Magneto |
Since we are having an interesting thread here, how about this question...
My new IO-360 from Bart came 2 days ago. It has lightspeed CDI in place of
one mag, and then a standard Slick mag.
Surprisingly, there is absolutely no form of instruction on how to wire this
ignition system. I found lots of info on the Lighspeed web site on how to
wire their system, but it stops way short of saying how to switch it, or
what to do with the magneto.
What say all of you?
jim
Tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James D. Ivey" <jim(at)iveylaw.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV6-List: RE: Engine baffles RV6A |
> There's also www.zing.com, www.photoworks.com, www.ofoto.com,
> www.shutterfly.com, www.idrive.com, etc.
Don't know why, but the first line of my message got clipped off.
All these sites are free.
Looking forward to the pics.
Jim Ivey
jim(at)iveylaw.com
Oakland, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Which mag has the impulse coupling? |
I think the thickness test only works with Bendix as both my Slicks have
impulses and I had to remove the adapter plates when I removed the Bendix
mags.
If you hear 2 clicks then no problem. Only one, you can check with a mag
timer to see which mag fires 2nd as the impulse delays firing. You can also
check with an ohm meter to see when the points open. Be careful as you can
blow an ohm meter or a mag timer when the impulse fires.
OR just remove a mag or two. Will have to retime.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 12:47 PM
Subject: RV-List: Which mag has the impulse coupling?
Thanks for all the replies. I compared my magneto bases and both appear to
have the same thickness. Is there any other way to figure out which has the
impulse coupling? (Maybe I'm not looking at the right part of the base.)
Steve Soule
RV-6A
Huntington, VT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)ticnet.com> |
I feel the venom should be directed toward the individuals who bring
lawsuits, not the attorneys. The attorney who is engaged to bring the
lawsuit is usually working on commission and will make nothing if the
suit fails.
The attorney who is assisting the defendant is hired by the hour and is
certainly entitled to compensation for his assistance, whatever the
marketplace dictates. The defendant can shop around for the best hourly
rate or for the most experienced attorney, his choice.
It is regrettable that the person bringing suit does not have to bear
the defense cost if the suit fails. I understand that is the practice
in Great Britain.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
-6A flying past 360 hours
Chuck Weyant wrote:
>
>
> No it's not possible we are a little hyper-sensitive to the legal boogey
> man. It's plain you have never had an experience with a blood sucking leach
> (attorney). To go to court and defend yourself is a very, very expensive
> occurance. You pay the leach even if you're successful in your defense, and
> those suckers (pun intended) walk away with a pocket full of your money, the
> title to your car house or whatever they can suck up. Who wins no matter
> the outcome? The blood sucker does.
>
> It always amazes me how we continue to vote members of the Bar into public
> office, watch as they make laws, then hire them to defend us from their
> laws. Can you say, "Conflict of interest"? To me, it's like having the wolf
> defend the hen house.
>
> The only way to change our rediculous torte system, is to stop electing
> leaches into public office. Then we need to revoke 75% of their licenses to
> steal from the American working man.
>
> Chuck (as he steps down from the soap box to go pound more rivets on his
> RV9A fuselage)
>
> > Has there been a successfull suit of an experimental builder yet?
> > Personally I have not heard of one yet where the experimental status did
> > not hold up in court. Loved the gyro company that was sued by a dead
> layers
> > firm/family. Not only did the experamental release hold up but a jurror
> > bought a kit. A friend of mines dad lost his medical and actually cut the
> > spar on his Kitfox and gave it to a restaurant to display. To me that is
> > really going overboard. Is it possible we are a little hyper-sensitive to
> > the legal boogey man?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine baffles RV6A |
Sam James (in Florida & in the Yeller Pages--863-675-4493--Sam doesn't
have much time for computers, so there's no Web page) makes a copy of
Dave Ander's plenum set-up (200 hp) and also a 180 hp plenum design from
Bill Davis. The plenum inlets were designed at the Mississippi State
Aerospce Engineering Department.
Boyd Braem
LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Should work just fine. Lots of others doing this same thing. Dave Anderts
> for one.
>
> One gotcha. Access to the top spark plugs.
>
> Jim Ayers
> LessDragProds(at)aol.com
> RV-3 N47RV LOM M332A (Engine "airbox" mounted on the engine separate from
> cowl; standard from the factory. Sliding plate provides direct access to the
> sparkplugs.)
>
> In a message dated 05/23/2001 9:55:42 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> dplute(at)onemain.com writes:
> >
> > I am just finishing the engine baffles as provided by Vans. I am
> > wondering...instead of trying to seal top of baffles to top cowl with
> > fabric like Van shows... why not even up top of baffles bend over a lip
> > and put an alluminum top cover on with plate nuts to seal baffle
> > system? The advantages I see are: tighter sealing with no pressure on
> > top cowl, and better fire containment in case of engine fire. However
> > there may be a (gotcha) in there somewhere that I do not know about!
> > I would welcome any feedback from anyone who has, (been-there-done-that)
> >
> > Thanks:
> > Doyal RV6A N4DP (res)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
Methyl Ethyl Keytone (or something similiar like that). Purchase at any
hardware store.
> Where can you get MEK? Does it go by another name?
>
> wHAT DOES mek STAND FOR?
>
> mY FAVORITE AUTO PARTS STORE HAS NOT HEARD OF IT, BUT THEY ARE FROM A
> FOREIGN COUNTRY, MUCH LIKE CALIFORNIA.
>
> hOME DEPOT DOES NOT KNOW WHAT IT IS.
>
> bARRY pOTE rV 9A WINGS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
Thanks Chuck.
Barry
Chuck Weyant wrote:
>
>
> Methyl Ethyl Keytone (or something similiar like that). Purchase at any
> hardware store.
>
> > Where can you get MEK? Does it go by another name?
> >
> > wHAT DOES mek STAND FOR?
> >
> > mY FAVORITE AUTO PARTS STORE HAS NOT HEARD OF IT, BUT THEY ARE FROM A
> > FOREIGN COUNTRY, MUCH LIKE CALIFORNIA.
> >
> > hOME DEPOT DOES NOT KNOW WHAT IT IS.
> >
> > bARRY pOTE rV 9A WINGS
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Toggle Switch for Electronic vs Magneto |
>snip
> My new IO-360 from Bart came 2 days ago. It has lightspeed CDI in place
of
> one mag, and then a standard Slick mag.
>
> Surprisingly, there is absolutely no form of instruction on how to wire
this
> ignition system.
snip
> jim
> Tampa
>
Give Klaus at Lightspeed (Ck. the yeller pages) a call with the serial
number of your unit in hand. His units normally are set up to use toggle
switches but can be ordered to be compatible with the traditional key
switch. He should be able to tell you which you have and get you some
installation instructions.
Stan Balnton
Rv-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James D. Ivey" <jim(at)iveylaw.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV6-List: RE: Engine baffles RV6A |
> Don't know why, but the first line of my message got clipped off.
Jeez! Cut off again. Anyone know why? Let's see if this gets through the
thought-police....
H T T P :
two slashes
photos
dot
y a h o o
dot
com
Treat that as an experimental URL kit -- quickbuild....
Jim Ivey
jim(at)iveylaw.com
Oakland, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Magnetos on toggle switches |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Now Mike , you better retrack that one. Continital has got rich selling
starter adapters after a kick back. Buy the way, are you in the main
land now? I haven't heard much from you lately.
I finally got my N number after 9 months with OK.
I am about to go to the paint shop. I have built 3 tail fairings. The
last one looks like crap, so after I get flying I think I will buy one
from Bob at fairings. etc.
Don Jordan N6DJ 6A Arlington, Tx
*****************************************
writes:
>
>
> Steve,
>
> If you are running dual magnetos, then only one of them will have an
> impluse
> coupling. You can start with both "on" as the impluse coupling
> magneto will
> be the "starting" one and the other one will start sparking as soon
> as the
> rpm comes up. If you want to start on only one magneto then it is
> the one
> with the impulse coupling.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A
>
>
>
> >
> >Those of you who have the mags on toggle switches, which one is
> active
> >during starting? I understand that only one mag should be active
> during
> >engine start, but can't figure out which.
> >
> >Steve Soule
> >Huntington, Vermont
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Magnetos on toggle switches |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I got Bob's wiring that will not allow the starter to crank if the RH mag
is on. You need a note to remind you if you want it in the air.
Don Jordan N6DJ 6A Arlington, Tx
*****************************************
writes:
>
> What happens if you accidently use both mags while cranking?
>
> -Larry
>
>
> --- Sam Buchanan wrote:
> >
> > On my RV-6 it is the left mag, the one with the impulse coupling.
> Check
> > your mags, one will probably have a thicker "mounting plate" which
> is
> > the impulse.
> >
> > Once the engine starts, I flip on the right mag. I really like the
> > toggle switch arrangement.
> >
> > Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
> > "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
> >
> > ---------------
> >
> > "Stephen J. Soule" wrote:
> > >
>
> > >
> > > Those of you who have the mags on toggle switches, which one is
> active
> > > during starting? I understand that only one mag should be active
> during
> > > engine start, but can't figure out which.
> > >
> > > Steve Soule
> > > Huntington, Vermont
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: stereo headphones |
In a message dated 5/22/01 4:25:41 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Knicholas2(at)aol.com writes:
> I am planning my panel and am trying to decide on the intercom. If I get a
> stereo intercom to listen to my favorite tunes, can my old Dave Clark's be
> rewired to stereo? Can I use mono headphones with a stereo system?
>
> my ignorance is boundless....
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9A wings
> Seattle
>
>
>
Kim, a good way to do this is to buy the active noise reduction
(anr) conversion kits from Headsets Incorperated in texas, and wire them in
stereo. I didn`t wire mine stereo but the noise reduction is unreal. They
come with clear directions to wire them several different ways.
Fred LaForge RV-4 180 CS EAA tech counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ProSeal-Tanks-Rivets?? |
In a message dated 5/22/01 5:45:21 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
kempthornes(at)home.com writes:
> One asked "do i need to put proseal in each rivet hole and ferd answered:
>
> > Most definitely!!!!!!!!!
> >
> I was told the rivet would just squeeze it out so why do it?
>
> Is there some experimental or even anecdotal evidence to support such
> excruciating detail?
>
> Hal Kempthorne
> RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
>
>
Hal, It squeezes MOST of it out. That is why some people use
tank dies to dimple their fuel tanks. I didn`t use tank dies and had to shave
some of the rivets, because they sat a little higher, but thank goodness, no
leaks.
Fred LaForge RV-4 180 CS EAA tech counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Toggle Switch for Electronic vs Magneto |
Jim,
On the lightspeed ignition be careful. I spoke with Klaus on this in depth.
Unless specificially requested the LSE ignition comes where you have to
turn it on (read add power) to it to make it work, exactly opposite from a
magneto, which, of course, you un-ground it to turn it on. He will change
over the ignition module to work exactly like a mag, but for a modification
price. If you have switches for your magntos then leave it like it is and
turn the switch upside down compared to the magneto switch. Then when the
switches are in the up/on position they will both be hot. If you are using
a key switch then you will need to get the module modified (which is what we
had to do). Call Klaus directly for more help. He is typically German (as
in short and straight to the point) but very helpful.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
Red faced about my earlier magneto goof. More later.
>From: "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Toggle Switch for Electronic vs Magneto
>Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 14:38:00 -0400
>
>
>
>Since we are having an interesting thread here, how about this question...
>
>My new IO-360 from Bart came 2 days ago. It has lightspeed CDI in place of
>one mag, and then a standard Slick mag.
>
>Surprisingly, there is absolutely no form of instruction on how to wire
>this
>ignition system. I found lots of info on the Lighspeed web site on how to
>wire their system, but it stops way short of saying how to switch it, or
>what to do with the magneto.
>
>What say all of you?
>
>jim
>Tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris & Susie" <rv6(at)ssc.net.au> |
| Subject: | Throttle mixture cable |
Could someone guide me through how to work out what length throttle and
mixture cable I need ..
Building a 6 With a 0-320D2A Going to mount cotrols to a bracket under
instrument panel.
I need to get it right as dont want to have to return them to Vans from
Australia.
Thanks
Chris aaand Susie
VH-MUM reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Magnetos on toggle switches |
Don and all,
You are all right. I stand red-faced. I forgot about the ato cut-out on
the aircraft that I have been flying. I stand corrected. If your aircraft
does not have the auto cut-out or similar device, by all means start only on
the mag that has the impulse coupling.
Humbly,
Mike R.
>From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Magnetos on toggle switches
>Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 14:57:23 -0500
>
>
>Now Mike , you better retrack that one. Continital has got rich selling
>starter adapters after a kick back. Buy the way, are you in the main
>land now? I haven't heard much from you lately.
>I finally got my N number after 9 months with OK.
>I am about to go to the paint shop. I have built 3 tail fairings. The
>last one looks like crap, so after I get flying I think I will buy one
>from Bob at fairings. etc.
>
>Don Jordan N6DJ 6A Arlington, Tx
>*****************************************
>
>
> writes:
> >
> >
> > Steve,
> >
> > If you are running dual magnetos, then only one of them will have an
> > impluse
> > coupling. You can start with both "on" as the impluse coupling
> > magneto will
> > be the "starting" one and the other one will start sparking as soon
> > as the
> > rpm comes up. If you want to start on only one magneto then it is
> > the one
> > with the impulse coupling.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> > RV-8A
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > >Those of you who have the mags on toggle switches, which one is
> > active
> > >during starting? I understand that only one mag should be active
> > during
> > >engine start, but can't figure out which.
> > >
> > >Steve Soule
> > >Huntington, Vermont
> > >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine baffles RV6A |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Jordan" <dons6a(at)juno.com>
> > The plenum was the easy
> > part. That was a one day build job. Then I spend the next week
> > figuring out
> > how to seal around the stock inlets on Van's S cowl. I finally have
> > a good
> > solution that seals well and easy to install both cowl halves.
Don ...and others who have done it
How is this done. I want to do install an aluminum top to the Van baffle
but have not figured how the top cowl will mate with it. The bottom cowl
looks like I can stay with the stock setup.
Ross
6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
Barry,
If your hardware or auto parts house doesn't have try any one that
carries Fiberglas and or marine repair supplies.
One of the ugys were right. If you have anything like this you'll pay
through the nose for Haz-Mat handling.
Jim D.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Primer Solenoid |
Len,
My fuel boost pump toggle switch has three
positions...off...on...on(momentary). The on position activates the fuel
boost pump and push the toggle all the way up to the momentary position and
it activates the primer solenoid and allows fuel from the pressurized
gascolator to go to 3 cylinders. Release the toggle and it goes back to the
on position.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 finish kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 7:28 AM
Subject: RV-List: Electric Primer Solenoid
>
> Guys:
>
> My stupid question for the list. I have read the archives on the use of
the
> solenoid for the electric primer, its location, etc. What I have not seen
> anything on is how it is activated. Can someone explain to me exactly how
it
> works? Is it connected to a switch, selector valve ......???? Thanks !!
>
> Len Leggette RV-8A
> N901LL (res)
> Plumbing & Wiring
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVanLaak(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Sink rate (long) |
Listers,
I have been watching these comments to see if anyone would mention the
benefit of the sink rates that relatively low aspect ratios can offer. Used
properly sink rate is a powerful tool for accurate landings power off.
About 30 years ago I read a piece by Richard Collins in Flying about how he
learned to perform the power off spot landings required for the Commercial
license. He used the technique suggested in the old faithful "Stick and
Rudder" of using careful airspeed control to adjust his sink rate and thereby
get to the spot on the ground every single time. It does not require, in
fact is better done without, large and agressive speed changes. Small
changes will make significant differences in glide angle.
The basic idea is to start out relatively high and then slow slightly below
the best glide speed to increase the sink and steepen the glide. If you are
still high you slow a little more, always maintaining adequate margin above
the stall. If you get low you increase the speed slightly to flatten out the
glide. A change of 100 fpm in sink rate is very noticable and useful if
applied at the right time. You also need to set a gate above the landing
zone, I use 100 feet, where you transition to the flare airspeed and perform
a normal landing. Again, these are small speed adjustments, 2 mph normally
and no more than 5 mph maximum, and it works great. But it does require some
practice to be able to control to the degree required to be effective, and to
get the final flare speed nailed so that the actual flare is predictable. I
would recommend getting with an instructor if you wish to investigate this
technique.
The same thing can be done with a high aspect ratio wing, but the effect is
more subtle. I have never flown a sailplane but I am sure some of our
listers have and can comment on how it works for them. When I was a lad I
used to fly the F-106, a low aspect ratio delta, and with this technique I
could put the practice flame-out pattern flare within 100-200 feet of the
same spot routinely, even at a final approach of 200 knots and a sink rate of
6000 fpm. All that is different is the scale and the angle.
So the other comments on how to handle the flare are good and informative,
but if you learn to make sink rate your friend you can increase your
deadstick accuracy significantly.
BTW, I used this technique for real to make a night deadstick landing into a
grass field in a Cessna 180 about 23 years ago. Landed exactly in the middle
of the 2000 foot unlit strip right next to the light of the coke machine in
front of the office (I was very familiar with the place and lost the engine
at 5000 feet overhead). Worked like a champ, but I have to admit it was
about 5 minutes before I had the strength in my legs to get out of the plane.
One last thing. I always make my best landings when I either do not look at
the airspeed instrument (or AOA) or when it is not working. That is because
at those times my senses are working overtime to feel the small changes in
sink rate that come into play and which tell volumes about how much flare
energy is left. One of my civilian instructors many years ago forced me to
learn that by sending me up in a Champ without a functioning A/S, and
although it was just a Champ I was scared stiff the first time. Best thing
he could have done for me. But it is easy to get lazy now and use the
instrument and then my landings are just average. Someday I will learn the
lesson again.
Jim
N1KJ RV-6 flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net> |
| Subject: | Northwest Fly-in |
I don't have an address for the Scapoose guys, so I would like to say here
that I appreciate very much the invites that I have received to attend the
Scapoose fly-in on June 16.
They must have gotten a "completions" list and invited guys like me.
A special hand written and stamped etc. invite to like minded Rvers within
striking distance.
If I go, I would have to drive since I sold my RV and used the Dinero to get
me a good engine and another kit which should be ready in a year...
I always felt guilty about it, but short of winning a lottery, I just could
not build another RV without losing my "flyer"....if I could, I would surely
build a Rocket, since that would be the culmination of my "Walter Mitty"
fantasy of roaring off into the blue, despite being a "golden ager",
whatever the hell that is supposed to pigeon hole me at.
I find too, that I even lust after a throaty motorcycle when the
weather turns good, and sport bikes appear in twos and threes on the road.
Sensibility being what it is though, even if I do see grey hairs
ripping down the hiway on a chrome beauty, I would probably think that the
10 grand it would take for the bike would get me an engine or a good panel
which I can fly all year 'round, where the bike is a short season ride where
I live and a rather "kamikaze" risk to boot with the crazies we see on the
road now.
The Scapoose fly-in is a candy store for any flying nut and RV
lover...they had 85 show up last year...
Can you imagine what it is like to fawn over luscious RVs all day and have a
dinner at night on the grass with a steak and A1 sauce and the smell of new
cut grass to ingest with a good drink ??
Years ago, I took 2 kids to a fly-in where we saw airplanes all
day, had hot-dogs and drinks and steak and cob corn at night, watched late
flyers take a last spin around the patch when the sun plays gold and rich on
the paint jobs and makes them photograph dark and dramatic...lights come on
and yawns prevail and the time to crawl in the tent prompts no
dissent....engines idle and go quiet and props blow the last wisps of grass
by and we are zonked for the night, dreaming of flapjacks in the dewy morn.
I am partial to be sure of RVs at a fly-in, but remember, that RVs were
not always there for us to enjoy....think of a polished Ryan
ST......anything that smells of airplane was as a narcotic to me and those
like me who drifted all day, tired of carrying a camera bag, getting sun
roasted and needing to find a place to pee, only to replace that with
another cool drink and another row of airplanes and pilots to talk to.......
I even felt a tug of nostalgia when studying a mint Ercoupe, since I
remembered flying one to Mexico when I was a kid.......the only airplane
some-one would trust to me, a foreigner at that, when all others told me to
get lost.........
The man who trusted me and gave me memories that lasted over 50 years was
killed in a B25 while fighting fires and now has a road at the airport named
for him...but still has another memorial in the minds of those who were
fortunate to meet him...a man who gave you a chance..
Airfields and fly-ins are what keeps the dream alive for most of us..
Lots of this pleasure provided by volunteer flying nuts..........the 2 kids
today are now working in aviation, their idea of "art" is a picture of an
airplane on the walls of home, their idea of music is the sound of a radial
and they must run out to see what it is......perfume to them is the special
smell of an airplane and the fuel and oil that somehow is different than
cars.......
Fly-ins are the food for the soul of a body captured by
airplanes..and as was said once before about music..that if music be the
food of love....."Play On" ....well if fly-ins are the food of love for
aviators....then please do..."Play On"....
Go to a fly-in......
Austin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald R. Eaves" <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Engine baffles RV6A |
Yes the bottom remains stock.
Follow Vans recommended clearance for the baffle to top cowl then add the
top.
The following sites look as if we were on the same wave link when we
designed our aluminum plenum:
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/5379/index.html
http://www.homestead.com/RV8A/files/index.html
The top cowl baffle material is attached as the bottom and it seals up when
the air pressure builds up even though it droops down somewhat when the
engine is not running. After 44 hrs the material is beginning to take a set
and remain up even when the engine is not running.
It works great - My Cylinder Head temps are all normal and after blocking
the #1 of they remain about 290 - 340.
I have my oil cooler attached to the left rear baffle and my temps are 180+-
both winter & currently on a 90 degree day. I have tested it in a steep
climb and it remains 180+-.
As James Freeman stated - I used screws so when I have the time I will
replace the screws with piano hinge.
An added benefit is the top cowl is not under air pressure caused by the
cooling air lifting up on it. Those stresses on the forward piano hinges
have caused many builders problems with pulled rivets. That's why those
piano hinges are extruded aluminum. Has to withstand a lot of stress. This
setup eliminates this.
I'm happy I took the time to make this modification. I would do it again.
Don Eaves
RV6 Flying 44 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ross Mickey
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 5:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine baffles RV6A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Jordan" <dons6a(at)juno.com>
> > The plenum was the easy
> > part. That was a one day build job. Then I spend the next week
> > figuring out
> > how to seal around the stock inlets on Van's S cowl. I finally have
> > a good
> > solution that seals well and easy to install both cowl halves.
Don ...and others who have done it
How is this done. I want to do install an aluminum top to the Van baffle
but have not figured how the top cowl will mate with it. The bottom cowl
looks like I can stay with the stock setup.
Ross
6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MARIWILL1(at)aol.com |
MEK is methylethylketone, can be purchased in some general building stores
such as Lowes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine baffles RV6A |
In a message dated 5/23/01 9:55:42 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
dplute(at)onemain.com writes:
> I am just finishing the engine baffles as provided by Vans. I am
> wondering...instead of trying to seal top of baffles to top cowl with
> fabric like Van shows... why not even up top of baffles bend over a lip
> and put an alluminum top cover on with plate nuts to seal baffle
> system? The advantages I see are: tighter sealing with no pressure on
> top cowl, and better fire containment in case of engine fire. However
> there may be a (gotcha) in there somewhere that I do not know about!
> I would welcome any feedback from anyone who has, (been-there-done-that)
>
> Thanks:
> Doyal RV6A N4DP (res) 1003 hrs on project to date
>
>
>
Been there, done that, Works fine.
Fred LaForge RV-4 180 CS EAA tech counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
MEK stands for Methyl Ethyl Keytone.
Not sure if its spelled right, but you get the idea.
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <tomvelvick(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Northwest Fly-in |
>
>I don't have an address for the Scapoose guys, so I would like to say here
>that I appreciate very much the invites that I have received to attend the
>Scapoose fly-in on June 16.
Hi Austin,
Where do you live at? Maybe someone is close to you or on the way and will
volunteer to give you a ride in their rv to the fly-in?
Regards,
Tom Velvick
Peoria, AZ
N9233A rv-4
N188KJ rv-6a wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <tomvelvick(at)home.com> |
I have a naca vent installed on the right side of the canopy on my
rv-4. When I open it, it sucks air out instead of letting air in. Has
anyone else had this problem and is there an easy solution for
it? Wondering if I create an airflow path through the rear bulkheads out
the tail, if that would change the pressures to allow the naca vent to work
or is it just in the wrong area?
Regards,
Tom Velvick
Peoria, AZ
N9233A rv-4
N188KJ rv-6a wiring.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Compton" <rdcompton(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Virus Protection |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2001 11:54 AM
Subject: RV-List: Virus Protection
>
> So I bought Mcafee Virus protection and the thing won't enable email
> scan. People are still sending me viruses. What a junk program.
COULD NOT AGREE MORE!! I also had a miserable experience and a waste of
money with McAfee.
I bought McAfee after getting "virused" by an email on this list. Well, the
installation was a complete pain, once installed it would not run as
advertised, tech support is an oxymoron, and the uninstall was a total
nightmare. Had to call my computer manufacturer's tech support to get it
all untangled.
Stay far, far away from McAfee. Go with Norton. It's worked 4.0 from the
get-go. Norton has caught the viruses running around on this list and
safely disposed of them as I've downloaded email.
Randy Compton
RV-3A N148CW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SHenry2029(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Please unsubscribe me thanks |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv-4 air flow |
>
>rv-4. When I open it, it sucks air out instead of letting air in. Has
>anyone else had this problem and is there an easy solution for
>it? Wondering if I create an airflow path through the rear bulkheads out
>the tail, if that would change the pressures to allow the naca vent to work
>or is it just in the wrong area?
>
>
>Tom Velvick>
Tom,
My RV-4 had a NACA vent installed in the lower, left cowl cheek by the
builder. It absolutely did NOT work. He told me about this prior to my
purchasing the aircraft (it had 3 hours Total Time at that point) I
suggested that he make a pair of vortex generators and play around with
them to see if they helped. On his first try, they worked perfectly. He
glued them on, painted the aircraft, and they look like they were conceived
of, and designed by Van's aircraft. Your idea of creating a flow path
through the rear bulkheads have be tried and proven by a fellow in New
Jersey. These ideas are in the archives somewhere. The concept of the
vortex generators has been floating around and may have been tried and
proven by other's (besides myself) They are really easy to make and
temporarily glue on. Good luck.
Louis
Louis I. Willig
larywil(at)home.com
RV-4, N180PF, 70 hrs. and climbing fast
I0-360, Hartzell C/S
(610) 668-4964
Penn Valley, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian E. Adams" <md11plt(at)attglobal.net> |
| Subject: | New Engine Monitoring System |
Ladies and Gentlemen,
I have been looking at putting in a new type of engine instrument panel
in my homebuilt. I have been talking to these folks for almost a year now
and they are about ready to have a production model. For the builders who
wants new things, it comes in both a 4 and 6 cylinder version.
If you have not purchased any of your engine instruments and are
looking for something new, take a look at the following web page. It will
give you a lot of info on the unit.
http://I-KTechnologies.com/
Brian Adams
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
| Subject: | RE: [rv8list] RV-8(A) Manual Trim Cable... |
Well.....I went ahead and called Brian Denk on the phone, he told me where
he put his, and I put mine is as close to where he did as I could... I will
post pictures and details to my website in the morning...
Thanks Brian!
And thanks to all of you who visited my web cam! There were at least 4
voyeurs on all night...
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Wiring & Finish Kit
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | GOING TO DISNEY LAND! |
OH YEAH... I will definitely have to check that out!
Thanks... And thanks to everyone who has contacted me about my Florida
trip!
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of jim jewell
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: GOING TO DISNEY LAND!
Hello David,
If you have any of the day left after the War Museum at Kissimmee got to
Kermit Weeks Place called The Fantasy of Flight Museum.
All the varied aircraft on display are flying examples. Lots to see and do
there. Good for a few hours.
Jim in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
remove
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Heated pitot current draw |
In an effort to gather information regarding the current draw for my
5814 heated pitot/static tube, I put together a setup on my bench and
gathered some figures.
If anyone is interested in the current draw trend form this particular
pitot/static tube you might find the graph interesting. I'll be running
this test later on and documenting the heat rise across the pitot tube
vs. time.
My basic electronics is a little weak and I was somewhat surprised at
the results. The peak draw as I started the test turned out to be
almost 19 amps and after stabilizing for 10 minutes the current draw was
approximately 9 amps. The temperature across he pitot (as measured by a
digital pyrometer) was about 425 degrees and slowly rising. Does anyone
have any information on what the temperature of a pitot tube is suppose
to be? I suppose the airflow across the tube once in the air will tend
to keep things quite a bit cooler but I don't think ice will stand a
chance against this setup.
I don't know why, but I was expecting the current draw to be consistent
whether the pitot tube was hot or cold.
Anyway, check it out here and follow the links.
http://bmnellis.com
Mike Nellis
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM (res) Building Flaps
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Heated pitot current draw |
>>I don't know why, but I was expecting the current draw to be
consistent
>>whether the pitot tube was hot or cold.
Mike;
The results you obtained are exactly consistant with what would be
expected. The electrical resistance of almost all materials rises with
an increase in temperature and therefore the current vs. time graph will
be as you have experimentally proven. This resistance characteristic is
why there is a large inrush current when you turn on a cold light bulb
but the current quickly stabilizes at a much lower value as the
fillament temperature rapidly rises.
Bob McC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Carburetor Fitting |
I need a new fitting for connecting fuel supply to my Marvel carburetor on
an O-360A4M.
Anybody know a source for these?
Do they have the same thread as the fuel pump fittings which are available
from Van's? If not, does anyone know what the thread is?
Thanks for any help.
George Kilishek
99% done. A lot left to do.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John M Brooker" <jmb(at)mylink.net> |
A couple of months ago a friend of mind bought my RV6.He replaced the
97A with a SL30 and would like to sell the 97A.The radio was bought new
by me in 1995 .When the radio was removed the aircraft had 375 hrs on
it. The radio is in like new condition and has the wiring necessary to
install.It also has installation manual. He is asking 500 dollars.This
would be a good buy for somebody.If anyone is interested you can email
John Brooker bbp(at)mylink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Meketa" <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8(A) Manual Trim Cable... |
Hello Yall
Rans Aircraft makes a manuel trim system that can be purchased from Aircraft
Spruce
or from them directly. The wheel assembly is available individually and
would be much easier than adapting a certified unit or fabricating one. They
had one at their Oshkosh booth and it was well made. The price was about
$100.00.
I planned on installing one, but opted for the easier to route electric
trim.
George Meketa
RV8 still finishing
> I built my elevator for electric trim but *may* change it to manual trim.
> Now, without starting another manual/electric trim thread...
> The slickest cockpit installation I have seen for manual trim must be the
> one that Lyle Hefel did. I went over to the picture archives to see if I
> could see details (which I didn't) and noticed that you uploaded them
> yourself. Did you ask Lyle if he took detailed pictures of the
installation?
> I seem to recall seeing that particular -8 for sale a while ago so I'm not
> even sure if he still has it.
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Northwest Fly-in |
Now that's an idea. I live in Bend but since I sold my 172 I would have to
drive over--if I could hitch a ride in an RV---PERFECT--but I would settle
for just flying in--not driving.
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Wings
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
O-320 D1A/Catto
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Thomas Velvick
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 6:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Northwest Fly-in
>
>I don't have an address for the Scapoose guys, so I would like to say here
>that I appreciate very much the invites that I have received to attend the
>Scapoose fly-in on June 16.
Hi Austin,
Where do you live at? Maybe someone is close to you or on the way and will
volunteer to give you a ride in their rv to the fly-in?
Regards,
Tom Velvick
Peoria, AZ
N9233A rv-4
N188KJ rv-6a wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent S. Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
Hello,
Check Archive for procedure Scott McDaniels suggests. Yes it is the blind
rivet method but it is better than rebuilding the tanks. I used it and
found it fairly quick and easy, and I was so relieved I didn't have to tear
into the tanks that I didn't care if it was a blind(solid shank or
shaft)rivet. Besides, you'll soon have other mistakes to worry about.
The type of rivet you use is important. I had some left over from the tank
baffle that I used. Good luck!
Regards
Vince Himsl
RV8 Fuselage
Moscow, ID USA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 9:29 AM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Tank Leak
I have 2 leaks in my fuel tank that show up when filled with water, 1 at the
center of the BNC connector and the other at the center rib just back from
the leading edge on the upper side. I was aware of the BNC problem and had
used a connector with a solid center pin and put a lot of Proseal not only
on the connector but also on the wire itself so I guess I will open the
cover and redo that area.
Fixing the leaky rivet is another matter. Is replacing the rivet with a
blind rivet the only answer? Removing the baffle plate is a lot of work but
is it realistic to do that or cut an access hole in it and put a cover over
it afterward?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
Working on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Which mag has the impulse coupling? |
Cy, and others ...
I thought this would be easy! I don't have a mag timer, so will have to use
an ohm meter. Where do I connect it? Can I read it while turning the engine
by hand (I hope?) By the way, I only hear one click, so only one of those
suckers has the impulse coupling. Unless, perhaps, both have impulse
couplings and both are clicking at the same time. If so, then can I activate
both mags for startup?
Sorry to be so full of questions, but up until now the only experience I had
with magnetos was on my old motorcycles. They had one per engine.
Steve Soule
RV-6A Huntington, VT
-----Original Message-----
From: Cy Galley [mailto:cgalley(at)qcbc.org]
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 3:16 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Which mag has the impulse
coupling?
I think the thickness test only works with Bendix as both my
Slicks have
impulses and I had to remove the adapter plates when I
removed the Bendix
mags.
If you hear 2 clicks then no problem. Only one, you can
check with a mag
timer to see which mag fires 2nd as the impulse delays
firing. You can also
check with an ohm meter to see when the points open. Be
careful as you can
blow an ohm meter or a mag timer when the impulse fires.
OR just remove a mag or two. Will have to retime.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
To: "Rv-List (E-mail)"
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 12:47 PM
Subject: RV-List: Which mag has the impulse coupling?
Thanks for all the replies. I compared my magneto bases and
both appear to
have the same thickness. Is there any other way to figure
out which has the
impulse coupling? (Maybe I'm not looking at the right part
of the base.)
Steve Soule
RV-6A
Huntington, VT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
Thanks. Finally located it yesterday afternoon.
Barry
PGLong(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> MEK stands for Methyl Ethyl Keytone.
> Not sure if its spelled right, but you get the idea.
>
> Pat
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
Thanks. Finally located it yesterday afternoon.
Barry
MARIWILL1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> MEK is methylethylketone, can be purchased in some general building stores
> such as Lowes.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Which mag has the impulse coupling? |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>Cy, and others ...
>
>I thought this would be easy! I don't have a mag timer, so will have to use
>an ohm meter. Where do I connect it? Can I read it while turning the engine
>by hand (I hope?) By the way, I only hear one click, so only one of those
>suckers has the impulse coupling. Unless, perhaps, both have impulse
>couplings and both are clicking at the same time. If so, then can I activate
>both mags for startup?
>
I haven't actually tried this, but couldn't you just listen, maybe using
a steel rod or something touching the mag.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Carburetor Fitting |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
They are regular AN fittings ( 90 or 45) with a NPT & a 37degree flare.
Don Jordan N6DJ 6A Arlington, Tx
*****************************************
writes:
>
>
> I need a new fitting for connecting fuel supply to my Marvel
> carburetor on
> an O-360A4M.
>
> Anybody know a source for these?
>
> Do they have the same thread as the fuel pump fittings which are
> available
> from Van's? If not, does anyone know what the thread is?
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> George Kilishek
>
> 99% done. A lot left to do.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
I use the naptha/Coleman for light cleaning in prep for primer, but use the MEK
when heavy-duty cleanup is needed -- like removing proseal or the blue print on
the one side of the AL sheet.
MEK is powerful to the point of being scary. I always wear gloves and a mask
when using it. You too, right?
-Larry
--- glenn williams wrote:
>
> I have been reading with interest your M.E.K. thread
> that is beginning to be a rope. I have a better
> suggestion for you and I was myself sceptical at
> first. Use coleman lantern fluid. To prove it to
> yourself take a piece of clean or dirty aluminum sheet
> wipe it with a rag immersed with M.E.K. and after it
> dries notice the film left behind. Now take another
> piece of aluminum and do the same with the coleman
> lantern fluid and there is no residue left behind.
> Cheaper too and less toxic to your body than M.E.K.
>
> for what it's worth
>
> Glenn Williams
>
> --- pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com wrote:
> > pichon.dean(at)adlittle.com
> >
> >
> > MEK is Methyl Ethyl Ketone. It is available at many
> > hardware stores and
> > most automotive paint stores.
> >
> > Dean
> > [snip]
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gary francis <bumby31(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | please remove from list |
Please remove me from the rv lists. thanx, GSF
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | EAA Bakersfield Chapter # 71 Fly-Inn June 2, 2001 |
EAA Bakersfield Chapter # 71 will be holding a Fly-Inn / BBQ June 2, 2001,
BBQ served at around 2:00 pm, Outback Restraunt will be catering the food
this year. BBQ Prices are $10.00 and that includes the drink and dessert. All
are welcome, this is the HRll Rocket capital of the world and there will also
be many RV's
(all types) also. The BBQ is located at the north end of the field of (L45)
Bakersfield Muni. 122.8
Hope to see you all there.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WPAerial(at)aol.com |
Home depot in Oregon has MEK.
Be carefull with it. It will make you sick a lot faster than Lacquer thinner.
I know from experience.
Jerry Wilken
Finishing kit 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Rupe <trupe(at)ridgenet.net> |
Anyone have the procedures for aligning a Airpath wet compass. I have a
compass rose available at a nearby airport, but have lost the procedures
that come with a new compass.
Please send to my email address.
Thanks
Tom Rupe N3882N s/n 62
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Toggle Switch for Electronic vs Magneto |
I am planning to install a Jeff Rose electronic ignition and one impulse
mag along with dual toggle switches for the EI and the Mag. I also would
like to install a Sky-Tec starter, but...
I have read that the Sky-Tec can spin the engine and the impulse mag
fast enough (before an actual start) to cause the impulse mag to revert
back to the 25 degree before TDC thus incurring the possibility of a
kickback. The logical sequence would be to start with the mag - OFF.
Jeff Rose is not a proponent of the Sky-Tec starter because of its
current draw which may cause a voltage drop sufficient enough to prevent
the electronic ignition from firing - particularly with a weak battery.
In a low bat situation, it might be prudent to start with the impulse
mag rather than the EI. This brings up a bunch of questions.
Can any of you flying builders comment on your:
(1) Installation of Sky-Tecs, electronic ignition, mags, and switches
(2) Starting procedures with Sky-Tecs and electronic ignitions
(3) Experiences with Sky-Tec starters and any combination of electronic
ignition and mags.
Charlie Brame
RV-6AQB, N11CB (Res.)
San Antonio
________________________________________________________________________________
Please be aware of the skin absorption characteristics/hazards of the
chemicals you touch. I know most folks are aware that exposure to this
stuff is bad, but the absorption of these chemicals through your skin can
really cause your body, liver, etc. problems. I worked in a vinyl chloride
monomer plant for almost 10 years. Those folks used to wash their hands in
that stuff - until they found out that it causes liver cancer and
degenerative bone disease. I know VCM, MEK, acetone, lacquer thinner are
all different, but I believe they can have similar detrimental effects on
your body when absorbed through the skin.
sorry to you RV purists since this isn't strictly RV related, but I felt
compelled to make this comment.
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 5/23/01 12:00:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
barrypote(at)home.com writes:
<< Where can you get MEK? Does it go by another name? >>
Strange? I get mine at Home Depot. Stands for Methyl Ethyl Keytone (I
think, but then I darn near flunked chemistry).
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Airpath Compass |
Tom;
Remove the front plate from the compass exposing
two small screws. find a place in the RV4 cockpit
where having ALL your electrical equipment on and the
engine doesn't affect the compass (good luck, I never
found one). Then with the compass in place and
everything on including engine, align the airplane
with each of the 4 compass directions as close as you
can on the compass rose. Using a brass screwdriver (if
you have one) adjust the small screws until the
direction matches the heading. Note: your mileage may
vary depending on magnetic variation in your area. If
in doubt, look at a sectional, it's marked next to a
dashed line. Once you're happy, replace the front
plate, turn on the GPS and navigate.....
Rob Ray
N557RR
--- Thomas Rupe wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: Thomas Rupe
>
>
> Anyone have the procedures for aligning a Airpath
> wet compass. I have a
> compass rose available at a nearby airport, but have
> lost the procedures
> that come with a new compass.
>
> Please send to my email address.
>
> Thanks
> Tom Rupe N3882N s/n 62
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Toggle Switch for Electronic vs Magneto |
I have had no problems with starting a carbureted O-320, 160hp with
impulse mag and Sky-Tec starter.
Sam Buchanan (Rv-6, 265 hrs)
========================
Charles Brame wrote:
>
>
> I am planning to install a Jeff Rose electronic ignition and one impulse
> mag along with dual toggle switches for the EI and the Mag. I also would
> like to install a Sky-Tec starter, but...
>
> I have read that the Sky-Tec can spin the engine and the impulse mag
> fast enough (before an actual start) to cause the impulse mag to revert
> back to the 25 degree before TDC thus incurring the possibility of a
> kickback. The logical sequence would be to start with the mag - OFF.
> Jeff Rose is not a proponent of the Sky-Tec starter because of its
> current draw which may cause a voltage drop sufficient enough to prevent
> the electronic ignition from firing - particularly with a weak battery.
> In a low bat situation, it might be prudent to start with the impulse
> mag rather than the EI. This brings up a bunch of questions.
>
> Can any of you flying builders comment on your:
> (1) Installation of Sky-Tecs, electronic ignition, mags, and switches
> (2) Starting procedures with Sky-Tecs and electronic ignitions
> (3) Experiences with Sky-Tec starters and any combination of electronic
> ignition and mags.
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6AQB, N11CB (Res.)
> San Antonio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Benson, Bradley" <bbenson(at)trane.com> |
| Subject: | RV6A-QB Flap Rib Question |
G'Day,
So I'm starting on the flaps on my RV6AQB, and the instructions call out for
the fabrication of the FL-404 inboard flap ribs. It then goes on to say
that the ribs already installed in the flaps are "identical to airworthy
ribs" but installed for "shipping purposes only". Upon a casual inspection
(I didn't remove the pop-rivet holding it in place yet), it appears to be
the same thickness, etc. as the stuff I'm supposed to fab the ribs out of.
The installed ribs are also drilled to match the skin holes.
My question then, is this: how many folks just use the installed ribs
instead of forming their own? The instructions almost imply that you do
this in a nudge-nudge, wink-wink way.
Thanks!
Brad Benson, The Trane Company BAS
Phone: x4285 (external 651.407.4285)
"Thou shalt not follow the Null Pointer, for at it's end Madness and Chaos
dwell."
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| From: | Mark Navratil <czechsix(at)juno.com> |
Guys,
I am interested in using Van's ES WH-8 FWD wiring kit for my RV-8A, but the
catalog tells me almost nothing about what I get for my $240 as compared to
the basic wiring kit at $180. Does it include extra items (switches,
breakers, master/starter solenoid, etc)? Is the harness complete and cut to
May 18, 2001 - May 24, 2001
RV-Archive.digest.vol-kt