RV-Archive.digest.vol-ku
May 24, 2001 - May 30, 2001
length with connectors and terminals already attached? And if so, what
panel layout must I use to put switches and gauges in the right place? Is
it set up for Van's engine gauges? Etc etc etc. Any info appreciated.
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Auxier <gary.auxier(at)wcom.com> |
| Subject: | Electronic Filight computers |
Hello Lister's
I would appreciate your recommendations / preferences / observations
in making a selection choice of 3 possible Flight Computers.
1. Jeppesen Flight Star
2. Sporty's E6BA
3. ASA's CX - 2 Pathfinder
Thanks in advance,
Gary
Gary.Auxier(at)wcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave" <dhrycauk(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tempo rattle cans |
I have seen plugging as well, but only when the ambient temperature of the
stored cans were around 10 C, after I warmed the can to around 18C I never
had another problem.
Dave Hrycauk
RV-8 Wings 95% (Fuse Here)
Lacombe, AB Canada
http://www.telusplanet.net/public/dhrycauk/index.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Shook <billshook(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2001 12:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: Tempo rattle cans
>
> I have used about 7 cans now and I have yet to not get completely all the
> paint out without clogging. One thing I always do though is tilt the can
> upside down and spray until clear (couple seconds) then wipe the tip with
a
> rag. Works for me.....your mileage may vary.
>
> Bill
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gordon Robertson" <gordon(at)safemail.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2001 11:06 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 42 Msgs - 04/28/01
>
>
> >
> > As for my $.02, I use the Zinc Oxide from Tempo. Much less toxic, and
> apparently works the same. I scrub each part using a scotchbrite pad and
> Coleman fluid to degrease and provide a rough surface.
> >
> > Advantage: Very convenient. Can buy it from Aircraft Spruce and
> Specialty, you can prime parts right then, not mix up then clean up the
> spray gun, etc. I like the ability to dab a quick prime on countersunk
> holes etc. before riveting.
> >
> > Disadvantage: Not very tough, although it gets very much tougher after
a
> few days. But you can always respray immediately before installing.
> Biggest disadvantage, extensively discussed in this list, is CLOGGING.
But
> I have found the fix! a) always drop your
> > nozzle into a jar of MEK until you need it again, and b) if the can
clogs
> internally, remove the nozzle, turn the can upside down and push a sharp
> object like a nail into the nozzle end. This will blast out the
> obstructing material, usually non-mixed paint solids,
> > (gets all over your hand, so wear a glove) and clear the clog. Until I
> discovered this, I was cursing and throwing away can after can. Now I
can
> use them all up.
> >
> > Gordon Robertson
> > RV8 fuse.
> >
> >
> > 1) I've used the Tempo zinc chromate cans on alodined parts. Hated it.
> > Took forever to dry and wasn't very tough. Hexavalent chromium is also
> one
> > of the most carcinogen/mutagenic substances you can buy. I wouldn't use
> > this stuff again even if someone paid me $100 a can to spray it.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Toggle Switch for Electronic vs Magneto |
In a message dated Thu, 24 May 2001 12:13:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Charles
Brame writes:
I am planning to install a Jeff Rose electronic ignition and one impulse
mag along with dual toggle switches for the EI and the Mag. I also would
like to install a Sky-Tec starter, but...
I have read that the Sky-Tec can spin the engine and the impulse mag
fast enough (before an actual start) to cause the impulse mag to revert
back to the 25 degree before TDC thus incurring the possibility of a
kickback.>>
From my experience with the Sky-Tec this is not the case.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AV8TURDON(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Filight computers |
Don't buy the Jeppeson you can't see it in the bright light. I have one and
hate it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Toggle Switch for Electronic vs Magneto |
>
>
>I am planning to install a Jeff Rose electronic ignition and one impulse
>mag along with dual toggle switches for the EI and the Mag. I also would
>like to install a Sky-Tec starter, but...
>
>I have read that the Sky-Tec can spin the engine and the impulse mag
>fast enough (before an actual start) to cause the impulse mag to revert
>back to the 25 degree before TDC thus incurring the possibility of a
>kickback. The logical sequence would be to start with the mag - OFF.
>Jeff Rose is not a proponent of the Sky-Tec starter because of its
>current draw which may cause a voltage drop sufficient enough to prevent
>the electronic ignition from firing - particularly with a weak battery.
>In a low bat situation, it might be prudent to start with the impulse
>mag rather than the EI. This brings up a bunch of questions.
>
>Can any of you flying builders comment on your:
>(1) Installation of Sky-Tecs, electronic ignition, mags, and switches
>(2) Starting procedures with Sky-Tecs and electronic ignitions
>(3) Experiences with Sky-Tec starters and any combination of electronic
>ignition and mags.
>
>Charlie Brame
>RV-6AQB, N11CB (Res.)
>San Antonio
>
>Charlie,
I have a Lightspeed ignition on the right side, an impulse coupled Bendix
mag on the left, and a Skytech lightweight starter. I find that the engine
will start with either sparker unit, but it likes the mag the best when
cold. I use several squirts of primer and it seems that the fuel ends up
down by the lower plugs, which are fired by the mag, and lights off quicker
as a result. Once the engine is warm, it starts beautifully on either
system. I have not noted any kick back at all at any time.
So, when the engine is cold, I start with the mag. When it's hot, I start
with the electronic.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
206 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
At the risk of sounding like a smart aleck, I am going to make a radical
suggestion:
Call Vans. :-)
Sam Buchanan
===========================
Mark Navratil wrote:
>
>
> Guys,
>
> I am interested in using Van's ES WH-8 FWD wiring kit for my RV-8A, but the
> catalog tells me almost nothing about what I get for my $240 as compared to
> the basic wiring kit at $180. Does it include extra items (switches,
> breakers, master/starter solenoid, etc)? Is the harness complete and cut to
> length with connectors and terminals already attached? And if so, what
> panel layout must I use to put switches and gauges in the right place? Is
> it set up for Van's engine gauges? Etc etc etc. Any info appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Schlosser" <kevinschlosser(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Filight computers |
Don't forget, if you have a Palm based PDA, there are many great programs for this
as well.
-< PropellerHead >-
Aka: Kevin Schlosser (Possible RV-7 builder)
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Auxier
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 3:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: Electronic Filight computers
Hello Lister's
I would appreciate your recommendations / preferences / observations
in making a selection choice of 3 possible Flight Computers.
1. Jeppesen Flight Star
2. Sporty's E6BA
3. ASA's CX - 2 Pathfinder
Thanks in advance,
Gary
Gary.Auxier(at)wcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <DonH(at)axonn.com> |
| Subject: | RV6A-QB Flap Rib Question |
Well, in the interest of being a good boy and all, I made those and the wing
tip ribs, then compared the factory parts to the parts I made and chose the
better ones to install in my plane. Guess which ones I picked.
The rules say that the 51% rule is for the educational benefits, so I figure
I got the educational benefits, plus the benefit of the better tooling and
experience of the folks who made the parts in the factory. I now know that,
if I had to, I could make all the ribs myself, and they'd be OK, but I'm
glad I didn't have to.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Benson, Bradley [mailto:bbenson(at)trane.com]
> Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 1:09 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV6A-QB Flap Rib Question
>
>
>
> G'Day,
>
> So I'm starting on the flaps on my RV6AQB, and the
> instructions call out for
> the fabrication of the FL-404 inboard flap ribs. It then
> goes on to say
> that the ribs already installed in the flaps are "identical
> to airworthy
> ribs" but installed for "shipping purposes only". Upon a
> casual inspection
> (I didn't remove the pop-rivet holding it in place yet), it
> appears to be
> the same thickness, etc. as the stuff I'm supposed to fab the
> ribs out of.
> The installed ribs are also drilled to match the skin holes.
>
> My question then, is this: how many folks just use the installed ribs
> instead of forming their own? The instructions almost imply
> that you do
> this in a nudge-nudge, wink-wink way.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad Benson, The Trane Company BAS
> Phone: x4285 (external 651.407.4285)
> "Thou shalt not follow the Null Pointer, for at it's end
> Madness and Chaos
> dwell."
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RMI CHT probe |
Is there supposed to be a spring in the end of the connector that attaches
the CHT probe to the fitting that screws into the cyl head? Mine goes on too
easy and feels loose. Is this normal?
Thanks
Kevin
-9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Toggle Switch for Electronic vs Magneto |
Ok, I'm safe here.
My RV-8A has pretty much the same set-up you are talking about except we
have the LSE Ignition system. Now here you definitely want to start your
engine on just one system, the electronic one, if possible, because it
adjusts timing to TDC for start and then adjusts as necessary based on
manifold pressure. It is recommended by the ignition manf. that you don't
use an impulse coupling magneto in combination with the electronic although
I don't personally see any reason why not just as long as you only start on
one ignition system. We used a non-impulse coupling Slick magneto in our
system and everything has worked well to date.
LSE even says that you can hand start with the electronic as long as it has
the minimum power needed. If no power at all then the impulse would come in
handy.
There have been problems in some cases where the high torque starters will
spin the engine fast enough to override the impulse coupling. With an
IO-360 engine in a -8(a) you have to use the Sky-Tec starter because of the
intake snorkel. Personally I love it and wouldn't think of using any of the
old boat anchor starters now. FWIW
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV List
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Toggle Switch for Electronic vs Magneto
>Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 11:05:18 -0500
>
>
>I am planning to install a Jeff Rose electronic ignition and one impulse
>mag along with dual toggle switches for the EI and the Mag. I also would
>like to install a Sky-Tec starter, but...
>
>I have read that the Sky-Tec can spin the engine and the impulse mag
>fast enough (before an actual start) to cause the impulse mag to revert
>back to the 25 degree before TDC thus incurring the possibility of a
>kickback. The logical sequence would be to start with the mag - OFF.
>Jeff Rose is not a proponent of the Sky-Tec starter because of its
>current draw which may cause a voltage drop sufficient enough to prevent
>the electronic ignition from firing - particularly with a weak battery.
>In a low bat situation, it might be prudent to start with the impulse
>mag rather than the EI. This brings up a bunch of questions.
>
>Can any of you flying builders comment on your:
>(1) Installation of Sky-Tecs, electronic ignition, mags, and switches
>(2) Starting procedures with Sky-Tecs and electronic ignitions
>(3) Experiences with Sky-Tec starters and any combination of electronic
>ignition and mags.
>
>Charlie Brame
>RV-6AQB, N11CB (Res.)
>San Antonio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RMI CHT probe |
I recall an spring on my probe, and it locks the the connector in place.
Blue Skies,
Carey Mills
-4, 135hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Read on
>
>Guys,
>
>I am interested in using Van's ES WH-8 FWD wiring kit for my RV-8A, but the
>catalog tells me almost nothing about what I get for my $240 as compared to
>the basic wiring kit at $180. Does it include extra items (switches,
>breakers, master/starter solenoid, etc)?
YES, all the basic set of C/B switches come with it as well as both
solenoids. Order your kit with the battery location in mind as their are
two different kits depending on location as the main battery cables come
precut and the ends attached.
>Is the harness complete and cut to length with connectors and terminals
> >already attached?
NO, you're on you're own here.
And if so, what
>panel layout must I use to put switches and gauges in the right place?
The kits come with a couple of plans that pretty much lay out everything for
you, as far as the wiring kit goes.
>Is it set up for Van's engine gauges? Etc etc etc. Any info >appreciated.
The wiring kits are generic and can be adjusted depending on what you want.
Glad to see you are coming along. Good building.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com> |
Chapter 130 is holding it's fly-in on Saturday, June 2 at DXR (Danbury
Municipal
Airport) Danbury,CT. Rain date is Sunday June 3.
Time is 0900 to 1600 EDST
For more info and updates, Phone (203) 799-1273
We hope to see a good turnout or RV's.
Tony Castellano
tcastella(at)juno.com
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6 N401TC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Toggle Switch for Electronic vs Magneto |
| From: | Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com> |
I have a Jeff Rose ignition in place of the right mag, a Slick mag with
impulse on the
left, a Skytech starter, two lockable toggle switches and an Airflow
performance fuel
injection system on my O360-A1A.
I always start on the mag and then switch to the Jeff Rose. I have not
had any starting
problems or kick back. Even hot starts are a non event (purge valve). I
forgot to mention
that my battery is several years old.
Regards,
Tony Castellano
tcastella(at)juno.com
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6 N401TC
writes:
>
>I am planning to install a Jeff Rose electronic ignition and one
>impulse
>mag along with dual toggle switches for the EI and the Mag. I also
>would
>like to install a Sky-Tec starter, but...
>
>I have read that the Sky-Tec can spin the engine and the impulse mag
>fast enough (before an actual start) to cause the impulse mag to
>revert
>back to the 25 degree before TDC thus incurring the possibility of a
>kickback. The logical sequence would be to start with the mag - OFF.
>Jeff Rose is not a proponent of the Sky-Tec starter because of its
>current draw which may cause a voltage drop sufficient enough to
>prevent
>the electronic ignition from firing - particularly with a weak
>battery.
>In a low bat situation, it might be prudent to start with the impulse
>mag rather than the EI. This brings up a bunch of questions.
>
>Can any of you flying builders comment on your:
>(1) Installation of Sky-Tecs, electronic ignition, mags, and switches
>(2) Starting procedures with Sky-Tecs and electronic ignitions
>(3) Experiences with Sky-Tec starters and any combination of
>electronic
>ignition and mags.
>
>Charlie Brame
>RV-6AQB, N11CB (Res.)
>San Antonio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Airpath Compass |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
This is an old post I have.
Don Jordan N6DJ 6A Arlington, Tx
*****************************************
On Sat, 30 Jan 1999, dgates wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Does anybody have a step by step procedure one would use to swing a
compass?
This isn't on a web site but here is how I have done it in the past.
1. Carefully align the aircraft with magnetic north. The accuracy with
which you perform this step will determine the accuracy of the rest of
the
process. Use a good compass rose painted on the ground with plumb bobs
from nose and tail or use a really good hand-bearing compass sighting
along the plumb lines at nose and tail.
2. Set both the N/S and E/W adjustment screws in the compass to their
neutral position..
3. Start the aircraft.
4. Turn on the lights and radios.
5. Get the DG up-to-speed and set it for N.
6. Using a nonmagnetic screwdriver, adjust the N/S adjustment screw to
eliminate any error.
7. Using the DG as a reference, turn the aircraft to a heading of 180.
8. Adjust the N/S adjustment screw to eliminate 1/2 (that's right, half)
the error.
9. Turn to a heading of 270.
10. Adjust the E/W adjustment screw to eliminate any error.
11. Turn the aircraft to a heading of 090.
12. Adjust the E/W adjustment screw to eliminate 1/2 the error.
13. Turn to a heading of 000 and write down the error on your compass
correction card. Do this for each 30 degrees.
It is a good idea to plan this whole thing out ahead of time so you can
run through the steps quickly. Remember, you are dependent on the
accuracy of the DG during this procedure so you want it to precess as
little as possible.
If you have a helper and a compass rose you can do this without using the
DG but it is a lot more difficult.
Brian Lloyd Lucent Technologies
brian(at)lloyd.com 3461 Robin Lane
(916) 676-6399 - voice Suite 1
(916) 676-3442 - fax Cameron Park, CA 95682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com> |
My 2 cents,
My wife has phd's in physiology and TOXICOLOGY! She won't let me come near
MEK without gloves and a respirator. The stuff is really bad for your liver.
The other items mentioned are bad also.
nuff said?
Cliff
>
> Please be aware of the skin absorption characteristics/hazards of the
> chemicals you touch. I know most folks are aware that exposure to this
> stuff is bad, but the absorption of these chemicals through your skin can
> really cause your body, liver, etc. problems. I worked in a vinyl
chloride
> monomer plant for almost 10 years. Those folks used to wash their hands
in
> that stuff - until they found out that it causes liver cancer and
> degenerative bone disease. I know VCM, MEK, acetone, lacquer thinner are
> all different, but I believe they can have similar detrimental effects on
> your body when absorbed through the skin.
>
> sorry to you RV purists since this isn't strictly RV related, but I felt
> compelled to make this comment.
>
> Bryan Jones -8 765BJ
> Pearland, Texas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
| Subject: | Prop bolts, help! |
I have a 0-320 with 3/8 prop bolts. After being discouraged from changing
to 7/16, I now have not been able to find AN6-73's 0r An6W73 bolts. They
are 3/8 bolts 7 1/2 " long. I have my prop, and spacer and hate to change
now. Aircraft Spruce has 8" bolts for a measly $40 each (Geeeezzzzzzzzz) I
have called bolt suppliers and they don't want to talk if its for an airplane.
Please anyone have any ideas???
Thanks
Dan Ward
81432
N417SN(reserved)
Finishing Kit, (about half finished with peoject)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Which mag has the impulse coupling? |
In a message dated 5/24/01 2:17:47 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
SSoule(at)pfclaw.com writes:
<< I thought this would be easy! I don't have a mag timer, so will have to use
an ohm meter. Where do I connect it? Can I read it while turning the engine
by hand (I hope?) >>
It can't really be done with an ohmmeter. Just look at your magnetos and see
if one has an additional aluminum spacer between it and the accessory case.
This is the one with the impulse coupling.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Prop bolts, help! |
> I have a 0-320 with 3/8 prop bolts. After being discouraged from changing
> to 7/16, I now have not been able to find AN6-73's 0r An6W73 bolts. They
> are 3/8 bolts 7 1/2 " long. I have my prop, and spacer and hate to change
> now. Aircraft Spruce has 8" bolts for a measly $40 each (Geeeezzzzzzzzz) I
> have called bolt suppliers and they don't want to talk if its for an
> airplane.
>
> Please anyone have any ideas???
>
> Thanks
>
> Dan Ward
> 81432
> N417SN(reserved)
> Finishing Kit, (about half finished with peoject)
Have you tried Saber Mfg 817-326-6293
They make prop extensions and stock bolts
Kevin -9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical kit |
I gotta disagree with Mike on this one. I saw his response, so I went out
to the shop and got the packing list from my ES-WH-8 FWD electrical harness
that came a couple of days ago. No switches, no circuit breakers. None in
the box either.
I went to Van's website and see that they have an additional kit, Part
Number ES-WH-SW for an additional $164.00, which they describe as a "Switch
kit for above WH kits." I don't see any description of the "Basic wiring
kit for all models, Part Number ES EWC-KIT, which costs $180.
Terry
RV-8A fuselage
Seattle
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 2:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re:
>
> Read on
>
>
> >
> >Guys,
> >
> >I am interested in using Van's ES WH-8 FWD wiring kit for my RV-8A, but
the
> >catalog tells me almost nothing about what I get for my $240 as compared
to
> >the basic wiring kit at $180. Does it include extra items (switches,
> >breakers, master/starter solenoid, etc)?
>
> YES, all the basic set of C/B switches come with it as well as both
> solenoids. Order your kit with the battery location in mind as their are
> two different kits depending on location as the main battery cables come
> precut and the ends attached.
>
>
> >Is the harness complete and cut to length with connectors and terminals
> > >already attached?
>
> NO, you're on you're own here.
>
> And if so, what
> >panel layout must I use to put switches and gauges in the right place?
>
> The kits come with a couple of plans that pretty much lay out everything
for
> you, as far as the wiring kit goes.
>
>
> >Is it set up for Van's engine gauges? Etc etc etc. Any info
>appreciated.
>
> The wiring kits are generic and can be adjusted depending on what you
want.
>
>
> Glad to see you are coming along. Good building.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop bolts, help! |
I've been told that Sensenich http://www.sensenichprop.com/ has prop bolts
but Wag Aero has a limited reasonable supply as well.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "TwoAviators" <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 4:32 PM
Subject: RV-List: Prop bolts, help!
I have a 0-320 with 3/8 prop bolts. After being discouraged from changing
to 7/16, I now have not been able to find AN6-73's 0r An6W73 bolts. They
are 3/8 bolts 7 1/2 " long. I have my prop, and spacer and hate to change
now. Aircraft Spruce has 8" bolts for a measly $40 each (Geeeezzzzzzzzz) I
have called bolt suppliers and they don't want to talk if its for an
airplane.
Please anyone have any ideas???
Thanks
Dan Ward
81432
N417SN(reserved)
Finishing Kit, (about half finished with peoject)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Prop bolts, help! |
I was able to buy a new set of prop bolts (7/16x7-1/2") from Sensenich.
Denise was very helpful, and even gave me an OEM discount (15%)without my
asking. Price was $225 for the set (not cheap, even discounted). Their
phone # is 717-569-0435.
Good luck.
George
N888GK (reserved).
99% finished. End still not in sight.
>From: TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Prop bolts, help!
>Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 17:32:04 -0400
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: TwoAviators
>
>I have a 0-320 with 3/8 prop bolts. After being discouraged from changing
>to 7/16, I now have not been able to find AN6-73's 0r An6W73 bolts. They
>are 3/8 bolts 7 1/2 " long. I have my prop, and spacer and hate to change
>now. Aircraft Spruce has 8" bolts for a measly $40 each (Geeeezzzzzzzzz) I
>have called bolt suppliers and they don't want to talk if its for an
>airplane.
>
>Please anyone have any ideas???
>
>Thanks
>
>Dan Ward
>81432
>N417SN(reserved)
>Finishing Kit, (about half finished with peoject)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCN44257(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Which mag has the impulse coupling? |
Steve,
The impulse coupling is most likely on the left mag. If you can come up
with a stethoscope (medical or mechanics) listen to the mags as the engine is
rotated slowly. I am sure you can tell witch mag has the coupling.
Karl Rigdon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical kit |
As seems usual lately, I wasn't clear enough. I was refering to the
enhanced, read expensive, kit.
Mike
>From: "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Electrical kit
>Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 15:49:07 -0700
>
>
>I gotta disagree with Mike on this one. I saw his response, so I went out
>to the shop and got the packing list from my ES-WH-8 FWD electrical harness
>that came a couple of days ago. No switches, no circuit breakers. None in
>the box either.
>
>I went to Van's website and see that they have an additional kit, Part
>Number ES-WH-SW for an additional $164.00, which they describe as a "Switch
>kit for above WH kits." I don't see any description of the "Basic wiring
>kit for all models, Part Number ES EWC-KIT, which costs $180.
>
>Terry
>RV-8A fuselage
>Seattle
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
>To:
>Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 2:21 PM
>Subject: RV-List: Re:
>
>
> >
> > Read on
> >
> >
> > >
> > >Guys,
> > >
> > >I am interested in using Van's ES WH-8 FWD wiring kit for my RV-8A, but
>the
> > >catalog tells me almost nothing about what I get for my $240 as
>compared
>to
> > >the basic wiring kit at $180. Does it include extra items (switches,
> > >breakers, master/starter solenoid, etc)?
> >
> > YES, all the basic set of C/B switches come with it as well as both
> > solenoids. Order your kit with the battery location in mind as their
>are
> > two different kits depending on location as the main battery cables come
> > precut and the ends attached.
> >
> >
> > >Is the harness complete and cut to length with connectors and terminals
> > > >already attached?
> >
> > NO, you're on you're own here.
> >
> > And if so, what
> > >panel layout must I use to put switches and gauges in the right place?
> >
> > The kits come with a couple of plans that pretty much lay out everything
>for
> > you, as far as the wiring kit goes.
> >
> >
> > >Is it set up for Van's engine gauges? Etc etc etc. Any info
> >appreciated.
> >
> > The wiring kits are generic and can be adjusted depending on what you
>want.
> >
> >
> > Glad to see you are coming along. Good building.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> > RV-8A
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John M Brooker" <jmb(at)mylink.net> |
Thanks to all . The 97A sold to the first person I received a email
from which was only some 15 minutes.
http://www.mylink.net/sitemap.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John M Brooker" <jmb(at)mylink.net> |
Thanks to all. The 97A sold to the first person to send a email which
was only some 15 minutes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Altimeter/transponder calibration |
I just spoke to my radio guy, he says he cant calibrate the altimeter to the
transponder and encoder. I have the inexpensive one from Vans (the chinese
one) .
This is the second altimeter I have bought, the first one was used and was
told the same thing by the radio shop, so I bought the new one and now told I
have same problem. Anyone else had this experience? Should I bite the bullet
and buy a higher quality unit, or can I run it the way it is in experimental
category?
Do we have to remove our altimeters, encoders, and transponders every two
years for calibration? I thought it was just the transponder that had to be
checked out Bi-annually.
Thanks in advance oh almighty list
Kevin -9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
ALSO CALLED "LIVER SOLVENT"
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
Debonair for sale - see www.aerobotix.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mel Jordan" <tmeljordan(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Aluminum Spinner |
I just received my aluminum spinner from George and Becki Orndorff, and
it is really a nice units. It is polished reasonably well, but I will
probably work on it a little more, because I want it to be perfect.
However, the heavy duty work is certainly done.
It weighs 846 grams, which is about 1.86511 pounds if my calculator is
right. I can not get to my vans fiberglass units at the moment, but
this can't be very much heavier and is probably lighter when you fill
pin holes and add paint.
To use this spinner you still need Vans spinner kit, or at least the
bulkheads from their kit, as this one does not come with any. The
shape is just the same as vans and you still have to cut the clearance
holes for the prop.
Cost was $210 and $7 to ship, pretty reasonable for a nice polished
aluminum addition to the nose and now I don't have to mess with that
fiberglass or decide what color to paint it! If you want to go polished
aluminum, this looks like a good solution.
Anyone need a big fiberglass dunce cap?
Mel Jordan
Tucson
RV6A QB Wiring and Avionics
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Altimeter/transponder calibration |
> I just spoke to my radio guy, he says he cant calibrate the altimeter to
the
> transponder and encoder. I have the inexpensive one from Vans (the chinese
> one) .
I just had a glass of fine California wine so am not thinking too clearly
but,
WHAT are you trying to do? The altimeter has **NO** relationship to the txp
and encoder. None, zip, zero, zilch. NADA. Too strong but there is, to
my knowledge, no such thing as calibrating them together. I guess if you
set your altimeter to 29.92 they are within a few hundred feet (200?) of
each other.
If you set the station pressure in the altimeter and you are sitting on the
ramp -- well read the FARs or AIM or whatever. Must be within 50 feet,
right?
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Altimeter/transponder calibration |
No. and the txp is not removed for the test. Hoses hook airplane to
tester.
Maybe your radio guy doesn't know what he is doing? I hope my did as he
does lots of corp jets.
hal
> Do we have to remove our altimeters, encoders, and transponders every two
> years for calibration? I thought it was just the transponder that had to
be
> checked out Bi-annually.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
Hi all... I have a few questions...
I bought Van's hour meter and oil pressure switch with light provision and
am looking for a wiring diagram that shows how to hook that baby up...
Where can I get the little screws for mounting instruments? Also, the
little screws that hold things like the hour meter and elt?
Where can I get the toggle switch anti-rotation washers? I called B&C and
they are out...
I know there was something else, but can't remember right now...
Thanks in advance!
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Wiring & Finish Kit
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Questions... |
> Where can I get the little screws for mounting instruments? Also,
> the
> little screws that hold things like the hour meter and elt?
Should have come with the instruments - mine did.
Try hobby shop for small screws (for securing RC equipment and such).
Trick: Attach instrument with screw and nut behind, JB weld nut onto
back of panel. Overnight blind nut!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis /Fran Flamini" <flamini2(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Altimeter/transponder calibration |
> i covered this in the past from Sport Aviation they listed the FAR that
stated the owner or builder is the one to certify that all IFR equipment is
ok to use. i just call up the local tower guy with radar and he calls off my
alt as i climb, can anyone think of a better way? Dennis Flamini RV-10,
N564DF race #53 Chicago
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Markert" <rv6av8r(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | prosealing over cured proseal |
Has anyone prosealed over proseal that is already fully cured? I would
like to apply more proseal over my already sealed and cured rivets just
to be extra sure that I won't have any leaks. Will the proseal stick to
the cured proseal?
Tanks,
Mike
BTR, La
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald R. Eaves" <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Engine baffles RV6A |
No - No difference in looking in the oil door - Only difference - You see
aluminum when looking in the inlets.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of James D. Ivey
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 1:04 PM
Subject: RV-List: RE: Engine baffles RV6A
> Don Eaves here in Memphis did exactly that on his RV6. AFAIK
> it's working
> well. I have some pictures of his installation I'd be happy
> to e-mail you
> or post somewhere if somebody will host them.
There's also www.zing.com, www.photoworks.com, www.ofoto.com,
www.shutterfly.com, www.idrive.com, etc.
I'd love to see the pics. Does the baffle interfere with preflight
inspections?
Jim Ivey
jim(at)iveylaw.com;
Oakland, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Altimeter/transponder calibration |
----- Original Message -----
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 9:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Altimeter/transponder calibration
> WHAT are you trying to do? The altimeter has **NO** relationship to the
txp
> and encoder. None, zip, zero, zilch. NADA. \
Just so you know, the FAR's require that, any new installation of an
altimeter and
encoder, be bench tested together. They are checking to see that the
altimeter
and encoder go up at the same rate.Terry B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | RV6A-QB Flap Rib Question |
On my QB (not yet flying), I made all the required pieces to stay in the
spirit of what is set up for us as (not always) "quick" builders.
In **some** cases, I then went back and REPLACED my piece with one from
Van's and in *some* cases, I thought mine fit better so I went with mine as
final. I have all those "replaced" pieces so an inspector can see that I did
in fact do my "51%" (and then went on to upgrade with something better).
I think you will feel better if you do the pieces and it will be an
"educational experience". ;-)
Just one person's view.
James
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Benson, Bradley
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 2:09 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV6A-QB Flap Rib Question
G'Day,
So I'm starting on the flaps on my RV6AQB, and the instructions call out for
the fabrication of the FL-404 inboard flap ribs. It then goes on to say
that the ribs already installed in the flaps are "identical to airworthy
ribs" but installed for "shipping purposes only". Upon a casual inspection
(I didn't remove the pop-rivet holding it in place yet), it appears to be
the same thickness, etc. as the stuff I'm supposed to fab the ribs out of.
The installed ribs are also drilled to match the skin holes.
My question then, is this: how many folks just use the installed ribs
instead of forming their own? The instructions almost imply that you do
this in a nudge-nudge, wink-wink way.
Thanks!
Brad Benson, The Trane Company BAS
Phone: x4285 (external 651.407.4285)
"Thou shalt not follow the Null Pointer, for at it's end Madness and Chaos
dwell."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
Here are some pictures James Freeman sent of a plenum job.
http://www.geocities.com/aaafrag/plenumdon.jpeg
http://www.geocities.com/aaafrag/aftlplenum.jpeg
http://www.geocities.com/aaafrag/plenumrfw.jpeg
I hope you can see them OK.
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Wings
SER #90186 N80BR RESERVED
O-320 D1A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Prop bolts, help! |
> Dan Ward
> 81432
> N417SN(reserved)
> Finishing Kit, (about half finished with peoject)
What does that mean, you have another year to go?! I don't think so!
Larry Bowen
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Altimeter/transponder calibration |
My encoder/transponder, static/pitot and altimeter systems were checked
for IFR compliance. This is how they wrote it up in the aircraft log:
"The trasnonder, Trimble model blah, blah, blah was tested and inspected
I.A.W. FAR 91.413 and was found to comply with FAR 43, appendix "F".
Test was made using a certified ATC Transponder Treater. The static
pressure system, the altimeter and the auto. pressure altitude reporting
system was inspected I.A.W. FAR 91.411."
(Tests performed were:
Altitude Scale Error
Altitude Friction
Pressure Altitude Difference
Hyteresis Test
After Effect
Case Leak)
"1. The static pressure system was tested on 10/30/00.
2. The altimeter was tested per part 43 "E": sn 399075 to 20,000' on
10/30/
00.
3. The auto matic pressure altitude reporting system was tested to
20,000' on
10/30/00."
The test was performed with the instruments in the airplane. They did
not have to be removed.
Hal, can you send me the name of that wine?--on some days it would
really come in handy:):)
Boyd Braem
RV-Super 6
Terry Burch wrote:
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 9:13 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Altimeter/transponder calibration
>
> > WHAT are you trying to do? The altimeter has **NO** relationship to the
> txp
> > and encoder. None, zip, zero, zilch. NADA. \
>
> Just so you know, the FAR's require that, any new installation of an
> altimeter and
> encoder, be bench tested together. They are checking to see that the
> altimeter
> and encoder go up at the same rate.Terry B.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)ticnet.com> |
I am having a continuing problem with nose wheel vibration with my -6A
in speed range of 17 through 25 knots on landing rollout, and while
taxiing in this speed range. The vibration is not noticeable on
takeoff run.
A new nose wheel tire has been installed and the wheel assy has been
statically balanced. The new tire does not appear to be out-of-round.
This is not the conventional shimmy problem. Vibration seems to be
caused by vertical movement combined with a little lateral movement.
The Bellville washer tension has been properly adjusted. Tire inflation
has been varied with no positive result.
Nose tire is the same type as was provided in the kit...Cheng-Shin
(formerly Lamb) 11.400-5, 6 ply. I wonder if 8 ply would make any
difference. I cannot find this tire listed as being manufactured by any
other tire maker.
When viewed as the plane is taxiing past, the NLG leg seems to be very
flexible in responding to the vibration, or could it be causing the
vibration? I have never heard of anyone having a problem similar to
this unless this is the same problem that wooden legs were supposed to
remedy...I have no wooden stiffeners. My NLG leg is not one of the new
beefed up legs.
I would appreciate your comments on my problem.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
-6A flying past 360 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
Cliff's wife is correct and there is not enough attention given to this
subject from the companies that sell amateur built aircraft--the
professional A&P world is just starting to enforce definitive protective measures.
BAD#1: acetone
BAD#2: laquer thinner
--do no use these products to "flush" or "wash off" other
paintable/primeable/epoxy based products on unprotected hands. Do not
breath urethanes paints without a full respiration garment. This is
only the tip of the iceberg. This stuff will get the toxins thru your
skin/lungs faster than you can say liver transplant or, in some cases,
leukemia, and a variety of in-between maladies that yould not be happy
with. COVER UP AND FILTER BREATH. Live long and prosper. \\\ //
Boyd C. Braem, MD
Clifford Begnaud wrote:
>
>
> My 2 cents,
> My wife has phd's in physiology and TOXICOLOGY! She won't let me come near
> MEK without gloves and a respirator. The stuff is really bad for your liver.
> The other items mentioned are bad also.
> nuff said?
> Cliff
>
> >
> > Please be aware of the skin absorption characteristics/hazards of the
> > chemicals you touch. I know most folks are aware that exposure to this
> > stuff is bad, but the absorption of these chemicals through your skin can
> > really cause your body, liver, etc. problems. I worked in a vinyl
> chloride
> > monomer plant for almost 10 years. Those folks used to wash their hands
> in
> > that stuff - until they found out that it causes liver cancer and
> > degenerative bone disease. I know VCM, MEK, acetone, lacquer thinner are
> > all different, but I believe they can have similar detrimental effects on
> > your body when absorbed through the skin.
> >
> > sorry to you RV purists since this isn't strictly RV related, but I felt
> > compelled to make this comment.
> >
> > Bryan Jones -8 765BJ
> > Pearland, Texas
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle mixture cable |
> Could someone guide me through how to work out what length throttle and
> mixture cable I need ..
> Building a 6 With a 0-320D2A Going to mount cotrols to a bracket under
> instrument panel.
> I need to get it right as dont want to have to return them to Vans from
> Australia.
No kidding.
The answer will depend on which type cable you are using. I know how it
works with the "standard Aircraft" type vables (e.g. CT BLK THROTTLE, CT RED
VMIXTURE, etc.). If you're using those, and Van's VA-149-320 bracket, then
start with the Aircraft Spruce and Specialty catalog. If memory serves, the
above mentioned cables are ACS cables -- the Throttle is an ACS type A-800
(friction lock) and the mixture and prop are type A-750 (vernier). Measure
them per the instructions in the ACS catalog and go from there. Use a
bowden cable or lawnmower cable or something like that that to double-check
routing and length. If Van's standard cables are close to the right length
and fit your routing then you're home free. If you can't make it work using
Van's standard lengths then you'll need to order custom from Vans or ACS.
Hope this helps.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~200 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Altimeter/transponder calibration |
Thanks for the replys guys, my intent was to have my used transponder and
encoder checked out before my DAR encounter and first flight. The radio guy
I took it to called me back and said he needed the altimeter too. I dont know
if he listened when I told him I was experomental and VFR. All I am trying to
accomplish is to be legal. I dont care if my altimeter says Im at 10,082'
when I really am at 10,024'.
So do I need another new altimeter, or just a new radio guy?
Kevin
tems were checked
>for IFR compliance. This is how they wrote it up in the aircraft log:
>
>"The trasnonder, Trimble model blah, blah, blah was tested and inspected
>I.A.W. FAR 91.413 and was found to comply with FAR 43, appendix "F".
>Test was made using a certified ATC Transponder Treater. The static
>pressure system, the altimeter and the auto. pressure altitude reporting
>system was inspected I.A.W. FAR 91.411."
>
>(Tests performed were:
>
>Altitude Scale Error
>Altitude Friction
>Pressure Altitude Difference
>Hyteresis Test
>After Effect
>Case Leak)
>
>
>"1. The static pressure system was tested on 10/30/00.
> 2. The altimeter was tested per part 43 "E": sn 399075 to 20,000' on
>10/30/
> 00.
> 3. The auto matic pressure altitude reporting system was tested to
>20,000' on
>
> 10/30/00."
>
>The test was performed with the instruments in the airplane. They did
>not have to be removed.
>
>Hal, can you send me the name of that wine?--on some days it would
>really come in handy:):)
>
>Boyd Braem
>RV-Super 6
>
>Terry Burch wrote:
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
>> To:
>> Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 9:13 PM
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Altimeter/transponder calibration
>>
>> > WHAT are you trying to do? The altimeter has **NO** relationship to
>the
>> txp
>> > and encoder. None, zip, zero, zilch. NADA. \
>>
>> Just so you know, the FAR's require that, any new installation of an
>> altimeter and
>> encoder, be bench tested together. They are checking to see that the
>> altimeter
>> and encoder go up at the same rate.Terry B.
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
| Subject: | Switch Console... |
Hi all...
I just finished fitting all the switches in my switch console... I made a
custom spacer of sorts to help in separating different groups of switches...
I also am using the dimmer as a switch separator...
Have a look here:
http://vondane.com/rv8a/wiring/index.htm
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Wiring & Finish Kit
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Altimeter/transponder calibration |
Kevin--
If you're flying VFR in an experimental you DON'T have to have your
altitude system checked for squat. I did mone solely for piece of mind
and with the intention of adding a Navaid/Porcine and an EZ Trim, and
wanted to make sure I was working with good numbers. Controlled flight
into terrain is not pleasant.
Boyd.
Im7shannon(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Thanks for the replys guys, my intent was to have my used transponder and
> encoder checked out before my DAR encounter and first flight. The radio guy
> I took it to called me back and said he needed the altimeter too. I dont know
> if he listened when I told him I was experomental and VFR. All I am trying to
> accomplish is to be legal. I dont care if my altimeter says Im at 10,082'
> when I really am at 10,024'.
> So do I need another new altimeter, or just a new radio guy?
> Kevin
>
> tems were checked
> >for IFR compliance. This is how they wrote it up in the aircraft log:
> >
> >"The trasnonder, Trimble model blah, blah, blah was tested and inspected
> >I.A.W. FAR 91.413 and was found to comply with FAR 43, appendix "F".
> >Test was made using a certified ATC Transponder Treater. The static
> >pressure system, the altimeter and the auto. pressure altitude reporting
> >system was inspected I.A.W. FAR 91.411."
> >
> >(Tests performed were:
> >
> >Altitude Scale Error
> >Altitude Friction
> >Pressure Altitude Difference
> >Hyteresis Test
> >After Effect
> >Case Leak)
> >
> >
> >"1. The static pressure system was tested on 10/30/00.
> > 2. The altimeter was tested per part 43 "E": sn 399075 to 20,000' on
> >10/30/
> > 00.
> > 3. The auto matic pressure altitude reporting system was tested to
> >20,000' on
> >
> > 10/30/00."
> >
> >The test was performed with the instruments in the airplane. They did
> >not have to be removed.
> >
> >Hal, can you send me the name of that wine?--on some days it would
> >really come in handy:):)
> >
> >Boyd Braem
> >RV-Super 6
> >
> >Terry Burch wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
> >> To:
> >> Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 9:13 PM
> >> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Altimeter/transponder calibration
> >>
> >> > WHAT are you trying to do? The altimeter has **NO** relationship to
> >the
> >> txp
> >> > and encoder. None, zip, zero, zilch. NADA. \
> >>
> >> Just so you know, the FAR's require that, any new installation of an
> >> altimeter and
> >> encoder, be bench tested together. They are checking to see that the
> >> altimeter
> >> and encoder go up at the same rate.Terry B.
> >>
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Wiring Kit |
Mark;
I bought the kit for my 8 and ended up cutting off most of the connectors
and resizing the wires. Only about two (big battery cables) were usable
as is for my wiring design. Some of the other components were useful, but
were obtainable from other sources. Keep in mind it is designed for a basic
day VFR airplane and mine is a day/night IFR machine. It wasn't cost
effective for me. I'd just buy the drawings.
And Mark, it would help if you always put in a subject. I normally delete
any messages without a subject.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 wiring and other stuff
(I)O-360 C/S prop all the bells and whistles
Seattle area
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Navratil <czechsix(at)juno.com>
> Guys,
>
> I am interested in using Van's ES WH-8 FWD wiring kit for my RV-8A, but
the
> catalog tells me almost nothing about what I get for my $240 as compared
to
> the basic wiring kit at $180. Does it include extra items (switches,
> breakers, master/starter solenoid, etc)? Is the harness complete and cut
to
> length with connectors and terminals already attached? And if so, what
> panel layout must I use to put switches and gauges in the right place? Is
> it set up for Van's engine gauges? Etc etc etc. Any info appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: plenum pictures |
Greg,
I hope James has reinforced his oil cooler to mount it by only one flange or
maybe the shots are just a temporary installation. Most folks are adding a
steel spacer between the two and using a long bolt to capture both mounting
flanges.
Ross
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com>
> http://www.geocities.com/aaafrag/aftlplenum.jpeg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Austin Tinckler's Musings |
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
Many of us have enjoyed postings by Austin Tinckler over the years (also
known as "Buster" or "Corsair"). With Austin's permission, I've gathered
some of his best works onto a web page,
http://www.vansairforce.org/6430/
If you enjoy Austin's poetic musings about RVs and flying in general, stop
by and have a read. I will continue to add to the archive as Austin writes,
and perhaps even dig up a few more from the RV List archives.
Tedd McHenry
Van's Air Force
Western Canada Wing
tedd(at)vansairforce.org
www.vansairforce.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Altimeter/transponder calibration |
If you are flying into any controled airspace such as Class B it would be
pretty silly to do that and not have any idea if your encoder is telling
ATC the correct altitude you are flying at.
I could be wrong because I don't have the FAR right here in front of me
but I believe that if you are going to use the system you need to have your
system checked.
Jerry S
"Boyd C. Braem" wrote:
>
>
> Kevin--
>
> If you're flying VFR in an experimental you DON'T have to have your
> altitude system checked for squat. I did mone solely for piece of mind
> and with the intention of adding a Navaid/Porcine and an EZ Trim, and
> wanted to make sure I was working with good numbers. Controlled flight
> into terrain is not pleasant.
>
> Boyd.
>
> Im7shannon(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > Thanks for the replys guys, my intent was to have my used transponder and
> > encoder checked out before my DAR encounter and first flight. The radio guy
> > I took it to called me back and said he needed the altimeter too. I dont know
> > if he listened when I told him I was experomental and VFR. All I am trying
to
> > accomplish is to be legal. I dont care if my altimeter says Im at 10,082'
> > when I really am at 10,024'.
> > So do I need another new altimeter, or just a new radio guy?
> > Kevin
> >
> > tems were checked
> > >for IFR compliance. This is how they wrote it up in the aircraft log:
> > >
> > >"The trasnonder, Trimble model blah, blah, blah was tested and inspected
> > >I.A.W. FAR 91.413 and was found to comply with FAR 43, appendix "F".
> > >Test was made using a certified ATC Transponder Treater. The static
> > >pressure system, the altimeter and the auto. pressure altitude reporting
> > >system was inspected I.A.W. FAR 91.411."
> > >
> > >(Tests performed were:
> > >
> > >Altitude Scale Error
> > >Altitude Friction
> > >Pressure Altitude Difference
> > >Hyteresis Test
> > >After Effect
> > >Case Leak)
> > >
> > >
> > >"1. The static pressure system was tested on 10/30/00.
> > > 2. The altimeter was tested per part 43 "E": sn 399075 to 20,000' on
> > >10/30/
> > > 00.
> > > 3. The auto matic pressure altitude reporting system was tested to
> > >20,000' on
> > >
> > > 10/30/00."
> > >
> > >The test was performed with the instruments in the airplane. They did
> > >not have to be removed.
> > >
> > >Hal, can you send me the name of that wine?--on some days it would
> > >really come in handy:):)
> > >
> > >Boyd Braem
> > >RV-Super 6
> > >
> > >Terry Burch wrote:
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> ----- Original Message -----
> > >> From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
> > >> To:
> > >> Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 9:13 PM
> > >> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Altimeter/transponder calibration
> > >>
> > >> > WHAT are you trying to do? The altimeter has **NO** relationship to
> > >the
> > >> txp
> > >> > and encoder. None, zip, zero, zilch. NADA. \
> > >>
> > >> Just so you know, the FAR's require that, any new installation of an
> > >> altimeter and
> > >> encoder, be bench tested together. They are checking to see that the
> > >> altimeter
> > >> and encoder go up at the same rate.Terry B.
> > >>
> > >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Prop bolts, help! |
Try Van's, I think they have all kinds of prop bolts.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
-----Original Message-----
I have a 0-320 with 3/8 prop bolts. After being discouraged
from changing
to 7/16, I now have not been able to find AN6-73's 0r An6W73
bolts. They
are 3/8 bolts 7 1/2 " long. I have my prop, and spacer and
hate to change
now. Aircraft Spruce has 8" bolts for a measly $40 each
(Geeeezzzzzzzzz) I
have called bolt suppliers and they don't want to talk if
its for an airplane.
Please anyone have any ideas???
________________________________________________________________________________
Don't know about Jep or ASA, but Sporty's is very difficult to see and a
little clunky to use. I bought it but I don't use it.
Ed Winne
RV-9A
Palmyra PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald R. Eaves" <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com> |
It's not James - He took the pictures - James hangar is next to mine.
I did reinforce the oil cooler, both the inside and outside flanges are on
long bolts with tube supports extending from the front flange to the aft on
each side -
Don Eaves
RV6 Flying 45+ hours
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ross
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 11:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: plenum pictures
Greg,
I hope James has reinforced his oil cooler to mount it by only one flange or
maybe the shots are just a temporary installation. Most folks are adding a
steel spacer between the two and using a long bolt to capture both mounting
flanges.
Ross
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com>
> http://www.geocities.com/aaafrag/aftlplenum.jpeg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Murphy <jgmurphy(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Dimpling Firewall |
folks
Have people experienced any difficulty dimpling the stainless steel
firewall using the C Frame tool??
I ask because the drawings do not state whether the stainless is
annealed or the extent of cold working e.g. 1/4 or 1/2 hard etc.
If the stainless is cold worked it may be impossible to dimple by hand,
but if annealed, (which I suspect),it shouldnt be a problem.
Thanks
Graham Murphy -6A
Blenheim
New Zealand.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Dimpling Firewall |
I used the C-frame and don't recall any problems. Drilling the firewall is
difficult, though.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
RV-6A
-----Original Message-----
Have people experienced any difficulty dimpling the stainless steel
firewall using the C Frame tool??
I ask because the drawings do not state whether the stainless is
annealed or the extent of cold working e.g. 1/4 or 1/2 hard etc.
If the stainless is cold worked it may be impossible to dimple by hand,
but if annealed, (which I suspect),it shouldnt be a problem.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV6A-QB Flap Rib Question |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
05/25/2001 08:20:09 AM
Dear Mr. Hyde,
I am the local FAA representative in your area, because of your blatant
disregard for our 51% rule I have no choice but to come to your house this
weekend and confiscate your quick build kit. Normally we don't like to go
to extremes like this, but you sir have gone too far beyond the grey area
of the law. Your blackmarket flap rib operation greatly endangers the grade
schools and orphanages in your area and this we cannot over look out of
concern for the childrens safety. Please have your kit ready to transport
to the confiscation facility by 12:00 tomorrow, in addition the law demands
that you surrender your paint gun, rivet gun and compressor since guns are
not allowed in the hands of hardened criminals like yourself. In addition
Federal law requires a twelve pack of Canadian beer (cold of course) to be
made avilable to the confiscation officials.
I hope this will serve as a warning to all rogue homebuilders out there
that big brother is watching, think about this next time you order that
extra rib from your kit manufacturer.
Officially
Eric Henson
HMFIC Federal Aviation Administration
Don Hyde (at)matronics.com on 05/24/2001 04:01:00 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV6A-QB Flap Rib Question
Well, in the interest of being a good boy and all, I made those and the
wing
tip ribs, then compared the factory parts to the parts I made and chose the
better ones to install in my plane. Guess which ones I picked.
The rules say that the 51% rule is for the educational benefits, so I
figure
I got the educational benefits, plus the benefit of the better tooling and
experience of the folks who made the parts in the factory. I now know
that,
if I had to, I could make all the ribs myself, and they'd be OK, but I'm
glad I didn't have to.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Benson, Bradley [mailto:bbenson(at)trane.com]
> Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 1:09 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV6A-QB Flap Rib Question
>
>
> G'Day,
>
> So I'm starting on the flaps on my RV6AQB, and the
> instructions call out for
> the fabrication of the FL-404 inboard flap ribs. It then
> goes on to say
> that the ribs already installed in the flaps are "identical
> to airworthy
> ribs" but installed for "shipping purposes only". Upon a
> casual inspection
> (I didn't remove the pop-rivet holding it in place yet), it
> appears to be
> the same thickness, etc. as the stuff I'm supposed to fab the
> ribs out of.
> The installed ribs are also drilled to match the skin holes.
>
> My question then, is this: how many folks just use the installed ribs
> instead of forming their own? The instructions almost imply
> that you do
> this in a nudge-nudge, wink-wink way.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad Benson, The Trane Company BAS
> Phone: x4285 (external 651.407.4285)
> "Thou shalt not follow the Null Pointer, for at it's end
> Madness and Chaos
> dwell."
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: plenum pictures |
| From: | james freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
on 5/25/01 4:56 AM, Ross at rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com wrote:
> Greg,
> I hope James has reinforced his oil cooler to mount it by only one flange or
> maybe the shots are just a temporary installation.
I took these pictures very early in Don's fabrication/installation process.
The oil cooler is properly mounted ;-)
Although Don frequently protests that his airplane is "for -go- not -show-"
he is very methodical and certainly over qualified as a RV builder. He is a
technical counselor and his day job is as in airline "aircraft recovery."
If he doesn't mind, I'll take some updated pictures next time his cowl is
off and post those.
James Freeman
RV8 "QB" and no, I don't have my engine hung yet
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Boone RV Fly-in and Swap Meet June 9th |
The Boone RV boys are at it again! Coffee and doughnuts in the AM and lunch
at noon with donation. If you have aircraft tools, parts etc you would like
to swap or sell bring them along. Tag them with your name and price and we
will have a table for display. Boone airport number is 515-432-1018.
Jack
RV8, tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tobin Micki <n8275d(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Questions... |
You could try a company called Microfasteners follow
this link to their online catalog.
http://www.microfasteners.com/
Tobin Genung
Stafford VA
--- Bill VonDane wrote:
>
>
> Hi all... I have a few questions...
>
> I bought Van's hour meter and oil pressure switch
> with light provision and
> am looking for a wiring diagram that shows how to
> hook that baby up...
>
> Where can I get the little screws for mounting
> instruments? Also, the
> little screws that hold things like the hour meter
> and elt?
>
> Where can I get the toggle switch anti-rotation
> washers? I called B&C and
> they are out...
>
> I know there was something else, but can't remember
> right now...
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A, N8VD, Wiring & Finish Kit
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
Bill,
I had the same problem with the anti rotation washers. I finally found the
website for Carlingswitch, the manufacturer of the switches from B & C.
There I found part numbers for the washers and the local distributor, who
ordered the parts for me. http://www.carlingtech.com/index.htm I
ordered screws from http://www.aaronsmachinescrews.com/. This was the only
place I could find black #6 & # 4 screws in the length needed.
I hope this helps.
Ken Harrill
RV - 6, electrical
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill VonDane [mailto:n8vd(at)earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 9:16 PM
Subject: RV-List: Questions...
Hi all... I have a few questions...
I bought Van's hour meter and oil pressure switch with light provision and
am looking for a wiring diagram that shows how to hook that baby up...
Where can I get the little screws for mounting instruments? Also, the
little screws that hold things like the hour meter and elt?
Where can I get the toggle switch anti-rotation washers? I called B&C and
they are out...
I know there was something else, but can't remember right now...
Thanks in advance!
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Wiring & Finish Kit
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wiring to Heated Pitot |
With all the discussion about heated pitot, what wire are you using to wire
to the pitot. Standard Tefzel is not rated to handle these high temps. I
have asked this question before and never got a definitive answer. If using
high temp wire, what is it and where to get it?
Thanks
Dave Burnham
Lincolnshire, IL
Fuse >50% I hope
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Altimeter/transponder calibration |
> If you are flying into any controled airspace such as Class B it would be
> pretty silly to do that and not have any idea if your encoder is telling
> ATC the correct altitude you are flying at.
We all do it all the time. I guess that is why we all report our altitude
from our altimeter to the controller when we first contact her. "Stockton
approach, experimental N7HK level four thousand five hundred." She sees me
at 4300 and is happy.
I did install the new Garmin 327 which does show my flight level. Cute but
I never look at it. Maybe some hot, sunny day my altimeter will fall out
over Modesto and the txp will save me, my loved ones and an orphanage.
Mine was officially calibrated as the airplane will soon be IFR certified.
Otherwise, my understanding is that nothing need be done.
In some controlled airspace, the transponder can be turned off. Right?
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Schlosser" <kevinschlosser(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Questions... |
Why not try calling or logging in to DigiKey? They are an electronics supplier.
They would definitely have the anti-rotation washers. They also have an excellent
selection of hardware. If you are looking for really
eners.
-< PropellerHead >-
Aka: Kevin Schlosser (Possible RV7 Builder)
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Harrill
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 11:08 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Questions...
Bill,
I had the same problem with the anti rotation washers. I finally found the
website for Carlingswitch, the manufacturer of the switches from B & C.
There I found part numbers for the washers and the local distributor, who
ordered the parts for me. http://www.carlingtech.com/index.htm I
ordered screws from http://www.aaronsmachinescrews.com/. This was the only
place I could find black #6 & # 4 screws in the length needed.
I hope this helps.
Ken Harrill
RV - 6, electrical
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill VonDane [mailto:n8vd(at)earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 9:16 PM
Subject: RV-List: Questions...
Hi all... I have a few questions...
I bought Van's hour meter and oil pressure switch with light provision and
am looking for a wiring diagram that shows how to hook that baby up...
Where can I get the little screws for mounting instruments? Also, the
little screws that hold things like the hour meter and elt?
Where can I get the toggle switch anti-rotation washers? I called B&C and
they are out...
I know there was something else, but can't remember right now...
Thanks in advance!
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Wiring & Finish Kit
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heated pitot current draw |
> Mike, thanks for the pitot amps curve.
>
> What "system" did you use to record all those points?
You're welcome,
I used my handy, dandy Radio Shack Multimeter. The meter has a PC interface
on it and comes with some software that allows you monitor and track the
readings. It saves those readings to a *.txt file that is in a table format
but will also show the reading on a graph. I used Excel to graph the table
file then converted it to *.html format.
I had to borrow my wife's laptop and lug it to the basement but otherwise
it's pretty simple.
After reading some responses I got on/offline and thinking about it a
little more, I realize that the curve may not be valid in flight. The cool
air (found when icing might occur) will probably keep the pitot tube
significantly cooler than the conditions on the bench. I can therefore
assume that the current draw will be consistently higher and the pitot tube
cooler. I have used 14 gauge wire for the pitot tube heater and I'll be
using a 20 amp fuse for circuit protection.
Bob Nuckolls mentioned a circuit design that would allow automatic control
of the pitot temperature so that might be an interesting option.
Mike Nellis
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM (res) Building Flaps
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Altimeter/transponder calibration |
Kevin asked,
> So do I need another new altimeter, or just a new radio guy?
Check your altimeter on the ramp per FAR regs. For VFR, no more is
required. Your altimeter does not even need a Kollsman window.
Has anyone ever had an altimeter failure? I flew a rented clunker years ago
that would stick at 4200 and not show higher for several hundred feet. They
are pretty simple and reliable.
Beringer Founders' Estate 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon - about $10.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring to Heated Pitot |
Even thought the body of the pitot tube was at 425 degrees on the bench (it
will be much less in flight) the "L" portion of the tube that attaches to
the mounting bracket was hot but not so hot that I could not touch it. I
used 14 guage wire and it did not get warm at all (at least not that I could
feel). I feel comfortable that the tefzel wire is more than adaquate for
this application.
BTW, for those interested, I used a motorcycle battery for this test with
a charger connected to it and running. Without the charger, the pitot tube
will suck the life out of this battery within about 5 minutes. This battery
has been around for a few years in my wife's motorcycle so it might not be
as healthy as it should be.
Mike
>
> With all the discussion about heated pitot, what wire are you using to
wire
> to the pitot. Standard Tefzel is not rated to handle these high temps. I
> have asked this question before and never got a definitive answer. If
using
> high temp wire, what is it and where to get it?
>
> Thanks
> Dave Burnham
> Lincolnshire, IL
> Fuse >50% I hope
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling Firewall |
No problems dimpling or drilling. Must be those cobalts.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 5:04 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Dimpling Firewall
>
> I used the C-frame and don't recall any problems. Drilling the firewall is
> difficult, though.
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, VT
> RV-6A
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Have people experienced any difficulty dimpling the stainless steel
> firewall using the C Frame tool??
>
> I ask because the drawings do not state whether the stainless is
> annealed or the extent of cold working e.g. 1/4 or 1/2 hard etc.
> If the stainless is cold worked it may be impossible to dimple by hand,
> but if annealed, (which I suspect),it shouldnt be a problem.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Saber Mfg prop extension |
I've got a question for those of you who bought the Saber prop extension.
Whas I the only on who apparently ordered it without the slots for the
safety wire? I can't figure out how I am going to safety the bolts that
hold the extension to the crankshaft. Any ideas? Otherwise I'm going to
send it back to him and ask that he cut the groves in for the safety wire.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Saber Mfg prop extension |
Scott-----------what grooves for safety wire? Wire the bolt
heads together, two at a time. Does your prop flange not have threaded
inserts? mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kenneth beene <kbeene(at)citilink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Altimeter/transponder calibration |
> We all do it all the time. I guess that is why we all report our altitude
> from our altimeter to the controller when we first contact her. "Stockton
> approach, experimental N7HK level four thousand five hundred." She sees me
> at 4300 and is happy.
>
Hal,
If you have the proper altimeter setting, she should see you very close to 4500
since her ATC display shows your transponded altitude after correction for the
local pressure in your flight area. (when below the transition altitude)
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling Firewall |
Hi Graham,
The firewall stainless is annealed.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: Graham Murphy <jgmurphy(at)xtra.co.nz>
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 4:20 AM
Subject: RV-List: Dimpling Firewall
>
> folks
>
> Have people experienced any difficulty dimpling the stainless steel
> firewall using the C Frame tool??
>
> I ask because the drawings do not state whether the stainless is
> annealed or the extent of cold working e.g. 1/4 or 1/2 hard etc.
> If the stainless is cold worked it may be impossible to dimple by hand,
> but if annealed, (which I suspect),it shouldnt be a problem.
>
> Thanks
>
> Graham Murphy -6A
> Blenheim
> New Zealand.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rpflanze(at)iquest.net |
| Subject: | Annual Inspection Checklist |
Anyone out there have an electronic version of a checklist for performing the
annual inspection? I have the general checklist from appendix 1 in the FAA
guideline for amateur-built aircraft. I was looking for one that someone might
have modified specifically for a RV-6. If so, could you please email it to
me? Thanks.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (152 hours and ready for an annual)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Throttle mixture cable |
To add to Randall's reply, if you need to order from Aircraft Spruce, you'll
probably want the A-1760 (pg 153 in 2000/2001 catalog) to have the same
mounting method as Van's cables, i.e. threaded bulkhead fitting at the end
instead of the notched fitting. BTW even the "stock" lengths I ordered from
ACS were backordered, so plan ahead.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) FWF
>
> > Could someone guide me through how to work out what length
> throttle and
> > mixture cable I need ..
> > Building a 6 With a 0-320D2A Going to mount cotrols to a
> bracket under
> > instrument panel.
> > I need to get it right as dont want to have to return them
> to Vans from
> > Australia.
>
> No kidding.
>
> The answer will depend on which type cable you are using. I
> know how it
> works with the "standard Aircraft" type vables (e.g. CT BLK
> THROTTLE, CT RED
> VMIXTURE, etc.). If you're using those, and Van's VA-149-320
> bracket, then
> start with the Aircraft Spruce and Specialty catalog. If
> memory serves, the
> above mentioned cables are ACS cables -- the Throttle is an
> ACS type A-800
> (friction lock) and the mixture and prop are type A-750
> (vernier). Measure
> them per the instructions in the ACS catalog and go from there. Use a
> bowden cable or lawnmower cable or something like that that
> to double-check
> routing and length. If Van's standard cables are close to the
> right length
> and fit your routing then you're home free. If you can't make
> it work using
> Van's standard lengths then you'll need to order custom from
> Vans or ACS.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
I really like the way Austin captures the way I feel about RV's and
flying.Way to go Austin
!. I hope I can meet you sometime.
Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic E6B |
I have Sporty's EB6 electronic unit...was a present...I call it a battery
eater...they go fast...but while they're 'up' it does the job well enough.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Heated pitot current draw |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Heated pitot current draw
Thread-Index: AcDlNIitsWCcDOaBSaqMvSPuEHUK6AAEATXA
| From: | "Todd Wenzel" <TWenzel(at)hsdinc.com> |
I don't recall if there is a difference between DC amps and AC amps and
wire sizes, but in standard house 120VAC wiring, you would want to use a
12 gauge wire for 20 amp draws.
Todd Wenzel
twenzel(at)hsdinc.com
Delafield, Wisconsin
RV-8AQB, Still Building
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike [mailto:mnellis(at)peoplepc.com]
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 10:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Heated pitot current draw
> Mike, thanks for the pitot amps curve.
>
> What "system" did you use to record all those points?
You're welcome,
I used my handy, dandy Radio Shack Multimeter. The meter has a PC
interface
on it and comes with some software that allows you monitor and track the
readings. It saves those readings to a *.txt file that is in a table
format
but will also show the reading on a graph. I used Excel to graph the
table
file then converted it to *.html format.
I had to borrow my wife's laptop and lug it to the basement but
otherwise
it's pretty simple.
After reading some responses I got on/offline and thinking about it a
little more, I realize that the curve may not be valid in flight. The
cool
air (found when icing might occur) will probably keep the pitot tube
significantly cooler than the conditions on the bench. I can therefore
assume that the current draw will be consistently higher and the pitot
tube
cooler. I have used 14 gauge wire for the pitot tube heater and I'll be
using a 20 amp fuse for circuit protection.
Bob Nuckolls mentioned a circuit design that would allow automatic
control
of the pitot temperature so that might be an interesting option.
Mike Nellis
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM (res) Building Flaps
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Please remove me from all RV lists |
| From: | Eugene A DeGrazia <eanthonyd(at)juno.com> |
Please unsubscribe me/remove me from all of the RV lists asap!
I appreciate your work and the input, but other assignments have made it
impossible for me to read and accept hundreds of e-mails weekly.
My e-mail address is EanthonyD(at)juno.com
Tony D.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Schlosser" <kevinschlosser(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Please remove me from all RV lists |
For future reference: Here's how you do it...
- Go here: http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
- Enter your email address.
- Click all the radio buttons for unsubscribe.
Wala! You're done.
----- Original Message -----
From: Eugene A DeGrazia
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 3:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: Please remove me from all RV lists
Please unsubscribe me/remove me from all of the RV lists asap!
I appreciate your work and the input, but other assignments have made it
impossible for me to read and accept hundreds of e-mails weekly.
My e-mail address is EanthonyD(at)juno.com
Tony D.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring to Heated Pitot |
In a message dated Fri, 25 May 2001 10:48:28 AM Eastern Daylight Time, DJB6A(at)cs.com
writes:
With all the discussion about heated pitot, what wire are you using to wire
to the pitot. Standard Tefzel is not rated to handle these high temps. I
have asked this question before and never got a definitive answer. If using
high temp wire, what is it and where to get it?>>
The following are maximum wire temp ratings:
Tin Plated Vinyl ins wire 105 deg C
Silver Plated Tefzel ETFE ins wire 150 deg C
Silver Plated Teflon PTFE or FEP ins wire 200 deg C
Nickel Plated PTFE ins wire 260 deg C
Higher temps than this would have to be Polyimide, Fiberglass or Silicone insulated
and are only available from specialty supply houses or from aircraft salvage
yards.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
Thanks for the tip Kevin!
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Schlosser
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 9:13 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Questions...
Why not try calling or logging in to DigiKey? They are an electronics supplier.
They would definitely have the anti-rotation washers. They also have an excellent
selection of hardware. If you are looking for really
eners.
-< PropellerHead >-
Aka: Kevin Schlosser (Possible RV7 Builder)
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Harrill
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 11:08 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Questions...
Bill,
I had the same problem with the anti rotation washers. I finally found the
website for Carlingswitch, the manufacturer of the switches from B & C.
There I found part numbers for the washers and the local distributor, who
ordered the parts for me. http://www.carlingtech.com/index.htm I
ordered screws from http://www.aaronsmachinescrews.com/. This was the only
place I could find black #6 & # 4 screws in the length needed.
I hope this helps.
Ken Harrill
RV - 6, electrical
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill VonDane [mailto:n8vd(at)earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 9:16 PM
Subject: RV-List: Questions...
Hi all... I have a few questions...
I bought Van's hour meter and oil pressure switch with light provision and
am looking for a wiring diagram that shows how to hook that baby up...
Where can I get the little screws for mounting instruments? Also, the
little screws that hold things like the hour meter and elt?
Where can I get the toggle switch anti-rotation washers? I called B&C and
they are out...
I know there was something else, but can't remember right now...
Thanks in advance!
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Wiring & Finish Kit
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 05/24/01 |
Re the prop bolts....
Find out what material they're made from (must be gold :-)) and any machine
shop can machine the threads for you. Heck, it can't be THAT exotic, can it?
Jerry Cochran
RV6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 05/24/01 |
<
Be carefull there - the threads for prop bolts should be a "Rolled" thread, not
cut like would be done with a die.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (reserved) (Fitting Cowling)
www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <DonH(at)axonn.com> |
| Subject: | RV6A-QB Flap Rib Question |
Well, as a hardened criminal, you're gonna have to fight me for my stuff if
you're man enough.
But, as far as the beer is concerned...
Around here we drink Abita Amber, not that watery Canadian stuff, and if
you'd like to sample some, you're welcome to drop by my shop. I might be
able to scare up some crawfish, too.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com [mailto:Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com]
> Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 7:18 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RV6A-QB Flap Rib Question
>
>
>
>
> Dear Mr. Hyde,
>
> I am the local FAA representative in your area, because of
> your blatant
> disregard for our 51% rule I have no choice but to come to
> your house this
> weekend and confiscate your quick build kit. Normally we
> don't like to go
> to extremes like this, but you sir have gone too far beyond
> the grey area
> of the law. Your blackmarket flap rib operation greatly
> endangers the grade
> schools and orphanages in your area and this we cannot over
> look out of
> concern for the childrens safety. Please have your kit ready
> to transport
> to the confiscation facility by 12:00 tomorrow, in addition
> the law demands
> that you surrender your paint gun, rivet gun and compressor
> since guns are
> not allowed in the hands of hardened criminals like yourself.
> In addition
> Federal law requires a twelve pack of Canadian beer (cold of
> course) to be
> made avilable to the confiscation officials.
>
> I hope this will serve as a warning to all rogue homebuilders
> out there
> that big brother is watching, think about this next time you
> order that
> extra rib from your kit manufacturer.
>
> Officially
>
> Eric Henson
> HMFIC Federal Aviation Administration
>
>
> Don Hyde (at)matronics.com on 05/24/2001 04:01:00 PM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> cc:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RV6A-QB Flap Rib Question
>
>
>
> Well, in the interest of being a good boy and all, I made
> those and the
> wing
> tip ribs, then compared the factory parts to the parts I made
> and chose the
> better ones to install in my plane. Guess which ones I picked.
>
> The rules say that the 51% rule is for the educational benefits, so I
> figure
> I got the educational benefits, plus the benefit of the
> better tooling and
> experience of the folks who made the parts in the factory. I now know
> that,
> if I had to, I could make all the ribs myself, and they'd be
> OK, but I'm
> glad I didn't have to.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Benson, Bradley [mailto:bbenson(at)trane.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 1:09 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: RV6A-QB Flap Rib Question
> >
> >
> >
> > G'Day,
> >
> > So I'm starting on the flaps on my RV6AQB, and the
> > instructions call out for
> > the fabrication of the FL-404 inboard flap ribs. It then
> > goes on to say
> > that the ribs already installed in the flaps are "identical
> > to airworthy
> > ribs" but installed for "shipping purposes only". Upon a
> > casual inspection
> > (I didn't remove the pop-rivet holding it in place yet), it
> > appears to be
> > the same thickness, etc. as the stuff I'm supposed to fab the
> > ribs out of.
> > The installed ribs are also drilled to match the skin holes.
> >
> > My question then, is this: how many folks just use the
> installed ribs
> > instead of forming their own? The instructions almost imply
> > that you do
> > this in a nudge-nudge, wink-wink way.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Brad Benson, The Trane Company BAS
> > Phone: x4285 (external 651.407.4285)
> > "Thou shalt not follow the Null Pointer, for at it's end
> > Madness and Chaos
> > dwell."
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A-QB Flap Rib Question |
Attention all viewers:
This has been another public service announcement by the 'Smart Ass Leather
Neck Club of America (SALNCA)'. We here at SALNCA wish you the best of
holiday weekends, and should there arise a need for yet another smart ass
remark, you can rest assured that Eric Henson, our founder, father and Grand
Master Poobaa, will either make such a remark, or delegate it to one of his
many underlings. We take our duty, which entails but is not limited to
being general smart asses (or is that Assi?), very seriously. Please
forward all donations to our treasurer (Bill Shook) and all complaints to
our complaint department (care of George Bush - 1600 Reck the Planet Drive,
Sissyfied DC 10010).
Thank you for your patronage, your generosity and Ali McBeal's posterior.
Good day and happy building.
Now, back to the margaritas. :-)
Sir William of Orlando
>
>
> Dear Mr. Hyde,
>
> I am the local FAA representative in your area, because of your blatant
> disregard for our 51% rule I have no choice but to come to your house this
> weekend and confiscate your quick build kit. Normally we don't like to go
> to extremes like this, but you sir have gone too far beyond the grey area
> of the law. Your blackmarket flap rib operation greatly endangers the
grade
> schools and orphanages in your area and this we cannot over look out of
> concern for the childrens safety. Please have your kit ready to transport
> to the confiscation facility by 12:00 tomorrow, in addition the law
demands
> that you surrender your paint gun, rivet gun and compressor since guns are
> not allowed in the hands of hardened criminals like yourself. In addition
> Federal law requires a twelve pack of Canadian beer (cold of course) to be
> made avilable to the confiscation officials.
>
> I hope this will serve as a warning to all rogue homebuilders out there
> that big brother is watching, think about this next time you order that
> extra rib from your kit manufacturer.
>
> Officially
>
> Eric Henson
> HMFIC Federal Aviation Administration
>
>
> Don Hyde (at)matronics.com on 05/24/2001 04:01:00 PM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> cc:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RV6A-QB Flap Rib Question
>
>
> Well, in the interest of being a good boy and all, I made those and the
> wing
> tip ribs, then compared the factory parts to the parts I made and chose
the
> better ones to install in my plane. Guess which ones I picked.
>
> The rules say that the 51% rule is for the educational benefits, so I
> figure
> I got the educational benefits, plus the benefit of the better tooling and
> experience of the folks who made the parts in the factory. I now know
> that,
> if I had to, I could make all the ribs myself, and they'd be OK, but I'm
> glad I didn't have to.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Benson, Bradley [mailto:bbenson(at)trane.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 1:09 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: RV6A-QB Flap Rib Question
> >
> >
> >
> > G'Day,
> >
> > So I'm starting on the flaps on my RV6AQB, and the
> > instructions call out for
> > the fabrication of the FL-404 inboard flap ribs. It then
> > goes on to say
> > that the ribs already installed in the flaps are "identical
> > to airworthy
> > ribs" but installed for "shipping purposes only". Upon a
> > casual inspection
> > (I didn't remove the pop-rivet holding it in place yet), it
> > appears to be
> > the same thickness, etc. as the stuff I'm supposed to fab the
> > ribs out of.
> > The installed ribs are also drilled to match the skin holes.
> >
> > My question then, is this: how many folks just use the installed ribs
> > instead of forming their own? The instructions almost imply
> > that you do
> > this in a nudge-nudge, wink-wink way.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Brad Benson, The Trane Company BAS
> > Phone: x4285 (external 651.407.4285)
> > "Thou shalt not follow the Null Pointer, for at it's end
> > Madness and Chaos
> > dwell."
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Mixture Cable Solution |
When I was fussing with the lengths of my mixture cable(s) I found out that
the cable for RV-9A is perfect length for an RV-6 with an O-360 and Van's
bracket. Don't waste your money ordering a custom cable. It is slightly
longer than the one intended for the -6. I don't know how it will work on
an O-320 installation, though...food for thought.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Throttle mixture cable
>
> > Could someone guide me through how to work out what length throttle and
> > mixture cable I need ..
> > Building a 6 With a 0-320D2A Going to mount cotrols to a bracket under
> > instrument panel.
> > I need to get it right as dont want to have to return them to Vans from
> > Australia.
>
> No kidding.
>
> The answer will depend on which type cable you are using. I know how it
> works with the "standard Aircraft" type vables (e.g. CT BLK THROTTLE, CT
RED
> VMIXTURE, etc.). If you're using those, and Van's VA-149-320 bracket, then
> start with the Aircraft Spruce and Specialty catalog. If memory serves,
the
> above mentioned cables are ACS cables -- the Throttle is an ACS type A-800
> (friction lock) and the mixture and prop are type A-750 (vernier). Measure
> them per the instructions in the ACS catalog and go from there. Use a
> bowden cable or lawnmower cable or something like that that to
double-check
> routing and length. If Van's standard cables are close to the right length
> and fit your routing then you're home free. If you can't make it work
using
> Van's standard lengths then you'll need to order custom from Vans or ACS.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~200 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Finish Kit ( Was Prop bolts, help!) |
FWIW, I've been on my finish kit for 2 years...ugh..almost done
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finishing up...I think.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 7:56 PM
Subject: RV-List: RE: Prop bolts, help!
>
> > Dan Ward
> > 81432
> > N417SN(reserved)
> > Finishing Kit, (about half finished with peoject)
>
> What does that mean, you have another year to go?! I don't think so!
>
> Larry Bowen
> Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> Web: http://BowenAero.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Schad" <schad(at)cooke.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 05/24/01 |
you got to be kidding, have a machine shop make the prop bolts! My life is
worth more than a set of bolts.... Tom Schad A&P IA
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jerry2DT(at)aol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 3:33 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 05/24/01
> --> RV8-List message posted by: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
>
> Re the prop bolts....
>
> Find out what material they're made from (must be gold :-)) and any
machine
> shop can machine the threads for you. Heck, it can't be THAT exotic, can
it?
>
> Jerry Cochran
> RV6a wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A-QB Flap Rib Question |
I called Van's after frustration with my ribs on the rudder, and proceeded
to order the bulkheads/ribs that you are supposed to order. Tom Green said,
"Oh, you must be building a quickbuild"
I don't think Van's really cares if you order the parts afterwards.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 7:33 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV6A-QB Flap Rib Question
>
> On my QB (not yet flying), I made all the required pieces to stay in the
> spirit of what is set up for us as (not always) "quick" builders.
>
> In **some** cases, I then went back and REPLACED my piece with one from
> Van's and in *some* cases, I thought mine fit better so I went with mine
as
> final. I have all those "replaced" pieces so an inspector can see that I
did
> in fact do my "51%" (and then went on to upgrade with something better).
>
> I think you will feel better if you do the pieces and it will be an
> "educational experience". ;-)
>
> Just one person's view.
>
> James
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Benson, Bradley
> Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 2:09 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV6A-QB Flap Rib Question
>
>
> G'Day,
>
> So I'm starting on the flaps on my RV6AQB, and the instructions call out
for
> the fabrication of the FL-404 inboard flap ribs. It then goes on to say
> that the ribs already installed in the flaps are "identical to airworthy
> ribs" but installed for "shipping purposes only". Upon a casual
inspection
> (I didn't remove the pop-rivet holding it in place yet), it appears to be
> the same thickness, etc. as the stuff I'm supposed to fab the ribs out of.
> The installed ribs are also drilled to match the skin holes.
>
> My question then, is this: how many folks just use the installed ribs
> instead of forming their own? The instructions almost imply that you do
> this in a nudge-nudge, wink-wink way.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad Benson, The Trane Company BAS
> Phone: x4285 (external 651.407.4285)
> "Thou shalt not follow the Null Pointer, for at it's end Madness and Chaos
> dwell."
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ray Richardson Jr." <ray(at)powersportaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Powersport 20B tests, dry sumps |
Dear engine enthusiast;
Many people have been asking Powersport if our reduction
drive is suitable for the 20B ( 3 rotor Mazda)
We had wanted to delay the cost of the engineering study and
the Torsional testing required to properly answer that question,
while we bring our 2 rotor, 215 hp product to market.
Of course the responce has included, Why did you design your
reduction drive to handle over 300 horsepower for 2000 hours
when your engine is a 215 hp. 2 rotor engine. Well we were
just thinking a little ahead of our selves.
We have went ahead with testing a customer supplied, turbo charged
376 hp engine who wanted our reduction drive and had agreeded to
help pay for the engineering and testing.
The testing is done the reports are written and yes, the 20 B does
require a torsional dampener to protect a 3rd order responce
at the top rpm, on the accesory drive side, (waterpump, alt).
All lower and mid rpm range is perfectly smooth.
The next step to allow the 20B engines to be used safely in aircraft
is to design the dampener into the auxiliary drive pulley, tuned to
the natural frequency occuring at that speed range.
We would like to know how many of you would be interested
in the 3 rotor engines. With our systems we would be at 325 hp
without the complications of turbo charging.
Also Powersport has just completed dry sumps for 2 rotor and 3 rotor
engines. This replaces the front (rear for aircraft) cover.
Our system has 2 scavage gear pumps and 1 pressure pump.
All inline gear pumps are heilical gear driven from the E shaft.
This will allow the engine to run inverted or at any attitude continuous.
We have just updated our web site to include the 3 rotor testing,
dry sump systems and showing engine production.
Ray Richardson Jr.
www.powersportaviation.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Altimeter/transponder calibration |
kempthornes wrote:
>
>
> Kevin asked,
> > So do I need another new altimeter, or just a new radio guy?
>
> Check your altimeter on the ramp per FAR regs. For VFR, no more is
> required. Your altimeter does not even need a Kollsman window.
>
> Has anyone ever had an altimeter failure?
snipped
Yes
RV4 N4375J
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Annual Inspection Checklist |
My RV-8 POH with a condition inspection checklist is posted on Kevin
Horton's website. You will need winzip after downloading it to un-compress
it then modify as you see fit. Go to:
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks.html#FT
Scroll down to the Misc. block and you will see it.
Mike Robertson
>From: rpflanze(at)iquest.net
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Annual Inspection Checklist
>Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 12:00:49 est
>
>
>Anyone out there have an electronic version of a checklist for performing
>the
>annual inspection? I have the general checklist from appendix 1 in the FAA
>guideline for amateur-built aircraft. I was looking for one that someone
>might
>have modified specifically for a RV-6. If so, could you please email it to
>me? Thanks.
>
>Randy Pflanzer N417G
>RV-6 (152 hours and ready for an annual)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mixture Cable Solution |
>
> When I was fussing with the lengths of my mixture cable(s) I found out
that
> the cable for RV-9A is perfect length for an RV-6 with an O-360 and Van's
> bracket. Don't waste your money ordering a custom cable. It is slightly
> longer than the one intended for the -6. I don't know how it will work on
> an O-320 installation, though...food for thought.
>
But keep in mind it matters what mounting system you are using in the
cockpit. I have an RV-6 with O-360 and have been battling this issue.
Neither Van's cable is long enough for my system and the Van's carb bracket.
I have a small subpanel for the controls, similar to what the original
poster indicated he has. I am in the process of moving my controls down and
forward so I will be able to use the Van's cables, which is convenient
because they work with the Van's bracket. Van's cables are apparently
dimensioned to work with the center console system, that few people seem to
use.
I think the only way to know is to measure with your own setup. As someone
else indicated any old kind of lawnmower cable works for this. If you can't
use a Van's control cable it is a big hassle because every other source
seems to have little differences that make it difficult to adapt. I am
changing to all Van's stuff because I have never had enough confidence in
the jury rigged system I have been using.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying (again soon I hope)
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 05/24/01 |
Cut threads are weaker than rolled threads. Rolling the threads doesn't cut
through the grain of the metal; the process also cold works the steel which
helps strength to small degree. Cut threads disrupt the grain of the metal;
what's worse, they also form nasty stress risers due to the small radius at
the bottom of the thread grooves. This effect is particularly bad where the
threaded portion of the shaft ends. The fatigue life of a machined bolt
will be many many times shorter than a rolled bolt, even if it is made from
the correct material
In a prop bolt, a machined bolt would probably result in failure in short
order. Given the consequences, you should pay whatever it takes to get the
right ones.
Matthew
-8A fuse
Re the prop bolts....
Find out what material they're made from (must be gold :-)) and any machine
shop can machine the threads for you. Heck, it can't be THAT exotic, can it?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
Hi all...
I just posted Revision 4 of my wiring diagram to my website...
REV 4 includes more spike suppression details, specific switch connection
details, and a revised [after testing] and more detailed wig-wag circuit
diagram... I have less than $20 in this wig-wag circuit and it works like a
charm!
Check it out...
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Wiring & Finish Kit
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
Thanks, Mathew. Your response was a lot more helpful than Tom Shad A&P IA's
earlier comment.
Terry
Not an "A&P IA", just trying to build a good airplane
"you got to be kidding, have a machine shop make the prop bolts! My life
is
worth more than a set of bolts.... Tom Schad A&P IA"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew Gelber" <mgelber(at)pacbell.net>
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 9:46 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 05/24/01
>
> Cut threads are weaker than rolled threads. Rolling the threads doesn't
cut
> through the grain of the metal; the process also cold works the steel
which
> helps strength to small degree. Cut threads disrupt the grain of the
metal;
> what's worse, they also form nasty stress risers due to the small radius
at
> the bottom of the thread grooves. This effect is particularly bad where
the
> threaded portion of the shaft ends. The fatigue life of a machined bolt
> will be many many times shorter than a rolled bolt, even if it is made
from
> the correct material
>
> In a prop bolt, a machined bolt would probably result in failure in short
> order. Given the consequences, you should pay whatever it takes to get
the
> right ones.
>
> Matthew
> -8A fuse
>
>
> Re the prop bolts....
>
> Find out what material they're made from (must be gold :-)) and any
machine
> shop can machine the threads for you. Heck, it can't be THAT exotic, can
it?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Leak |
I have decided to make an access hole in the baffle plate to gain access to
the tank interior to fix a leaky rivet. I made a cover plate of .063"
with a circle of 24 rivets. That many rivets puts them on about 9/16"
centers which is slightly closer together than the tank skin to baffle plate
row of rivets on the RV-9A. I plan on using 1/8" blind rivets to fasten the
cover plate on. Any suggestions as to which of the many blind rivets Vans
supply's would be a good choice?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
Working on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | PPG Concept cleanup solvent |
I am about to spray some interior parts with PPG Concept DCC Acrylic
Urethane. The PPG spec sheet says to use DX590 All Purpose Cleanup Solvent.
My question: Can I use laquer thinner as a cleanup solvent?
Question 2: I am using DX685 flattening agent to reduce the gloss on the
interior parts. This can result in semi-gloss, eggshell or flat finish
depending on how much DX685 is added. Any recommendations on which level of
gloss works best for interior parts?
Chris Heitman
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Finish kit
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Leak |
In a message dated 5/26/01 1:18:06 AM Central Daylight Time,
albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< I have decided to make an access hole in the baffle plate to gain access to
the tank interior to fix a leaky rivet. I made a cover plate of .063"
with a circle of 24 rivets. That many rivets puts them on about 9/16"
centers which is slightly closer together than the tank skin to baffle plate
row of rivets on the RV-9A. I plan on using 1/8" blind rivets to fasten the
cover plate on. Any suggestions as to which of the many blind rivets Vans
supply's would be a good choice? >>
Don,
I would use the AD 42H closed head rivet if the conbined thickness of the
cover and tank baffle plate is 1/16" or more. If the combined thickness is
less that 1/16" go with the AD 41H closed head. Use lots of proseal.
Happy building,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Engine Cowling)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mixture Cable Solution |
> I think the only way to know is to measure with your own setup. As
someone
> else indicated any old kind of lawnmower cable works for this. If you
can't
> use a Van's control cable it is a big hassle because every other source
> seems to have little differences that make it difficult to adapt. I am
> changing to all Van's stuff because I have never had enough confidence in
> the jury rigged system I have been using.
Some considerations re control cables -
It is surprisingly easy to order them direct from ACS in Lake Havasu City,
Arizona (this is not Aircraft Spruce..). You can tell them that you want
"Van's" style and they will know what you want, since they make them for
Van's (except the big black knobbed, green covered sort like the trim
cable). One important thing to note is that the amount of travel is
diminished by the total amount of degrees of bend in the cable. Van's are
really marginal in this regard, and are designed for almost straight through
use.
When you order, you need to specify overall length, end type (Van's, with
the 10-32 thread), red/black/blue/vernier/etc, covering, and total straight
travel. I think the Aircraft Spruce catalog discusses the reduction in
travel with curves, otherwise ACS can help.
My custom order took 3 days, no kidding, and I don't have their telephone
number handy.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PPG Concept cleanup solvent |
> I am about to spray some interior parts with PPG Concept DCC Acrylic
> Urethane. The PPG spec sheet says to use DX590 All Purpose Cleanup
Solvent.
> My question: Can I use laquer thinner as a cleanup solvent?
Laquer thinner works very well for cleanup of your spray gun etc, but don't
use it to clean the surfaces to be painted. For best results make sure you
clean your gun thoroughly. Concept is pretty easy to clean up, the various
primers are more difficult.
> Question 2: I am using DX685 flattening agent to reduce the gloss on the
> interior parts. This can result in semi-gloss, eggshell or flat finish
> depending on how much DX685 is added. Any recommendations on which level
of
> gloss works best for interior parts?
I've shot this several times on others planes. My *personal* preference is
to go with the eggshell (which is the medium setting, correct?). Other
builders here have mixed it for the full flat and are happy with it though.
This is a judgement call... of course you could always shoot a test piece
and decide for yourself.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, N558RL, 23.1 hrs, relocating fuel flow sensor today instead of flying
;-(
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | f4av8r(at)netscape.net |
RV-4 kit forsale: All subkits, approx. 45percent complete. Excellent workmanship.
Lost time/momentum. Plan to buy or trade for a flying 4. $10,500 obo.
512-328-3631(D) 512-892-8895(E).
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape Webmail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
Bill,
On your wig wag schematic, you show GE 50 watt low voltage track lighting
bulbs. Are these what your landing/light taxi lights are? I have the
Duckworth lights and was planning on swapping the 50 watt bulbs for some 100
watters. Would this overload the wig wag system?
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 10:00 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wiring REV 4
Hi all...
I just posted Revision 4 of my wiring diagram to my website...
REV 4 includes more spike suppression details, specific switch connection
details, and a revised [after testing] and more detailed wig-wag circuit
diagram... I have less than $20 in this wig-wag circuit and it works like a
charm!
Check it out...
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Wiring & Finish Kit
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mixture Cable Solution |
Forgot to mention, I am not using Van's center console. I just have an
extension off the bottom of the panel. So, for that exact configuration,
RV-6, O-360, Van's Mixture bracket (for the O-360), and the cable mounted at
the bottom of the panel, it will work perfectly.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 9:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Mixture Cable Solution
>
>
> >
> > When I was fussing with the lengths of my mixture cable(s) I found out
> that
> > the cable for RV-9A is perfect length for an RV-6 with an O-360 and
Van's
> > bracket. Don't waste your money ordering a custom cable. It is
slightly
> > longer than the one intended for the -6. I don't know how it will work
on
> > an O-320 installation, though...food for thought.
> >
>
>
> But keep in mind it matters what mounting system you are using in the
> cockpit. I have an RV-6 with O-360 and have been battling this issue.
> Neither Van's cable is long enough for my system and the Van's carb
bracket.
> I have a small subpanel for the controls, similar to what the original
> poster indicated he has. I am in the process of moving my controls down
and
> forward so I will be able to use the Van's cables, which is convenient
> because they work with the Van's bracket. Van's cables are apparently
> dimensioned to work with the center console system, that few people seem
to
> use.
>
> I think the only way to know is to measure with your own setup. As
someone
> else indicated any old kind of lawnmower cable works for this. If you
can't
> use a Van's control cable it is a big hassle because every other source
> seems to have little differences that make it difficult to adapt. I am
> changing to all Van's stuff because I have never had enough confidence in
> the jury rigged system I have been using.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying (again soon I hope)
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi Greg...
Both the flasher and relay are rated for up to 25A, so I would guess if you
didn't exceed this rating, it would be fine...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Greg Tanner
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 9:19 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Wiring REV 4
Bill,
On your wig wag schematic, you show GE 50 watt low voltage track lighting
bulbs. Are these what your landing/light taxi lights are? I have the
Duckworth lights and was planning on swapping the 50 watt bulbs for some 100
watters. Would this overload the wig wag system?
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 10:00 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wiring REV 4
Hi all...
I just posted Revision 4 of my wiring diagram to my website...
REV 4 includes more spike suppression details, specific switch connection
details, and a revised [after testing] and more detailed wig-wag circuit
diagram... I have less than $20 in this wig-wag circuit and it works like a
charm!
Check it out...
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Wiring & Finish Kit
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Schlosser" <kevinschlosser(at)msn.com> |
Would you have any pictures available of your work? What stage are you at? 45%
could be wings and tail done with fuse started knowing how much work these things
take. When was original kit purchased?
-< PropellerHead >-
----- Original Message -----
From: f4av8r(at)netscape.net
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 10:41 AM
Subject:
RV-4 kit forsale: All subkits, approx. 45percent complete. Excellent workmanship.
Lost time/momentum. Plan to buy or trade for a flying 4. $10,500 obo.
512-328-3631(D) 512-892-8895(E).
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape Webmail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 05/25/01 |
In a message dated 5/25/01 10:54:05 PM, rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<< you got to be kidding, have a machine shop make the prop bolts! My life is
worth more than a set of bolts.... Tom Schad A&P IA >>
With all due respect.... ANY material such as stainless or nitrided steel or
whatever can be EXACTLY duplicated. This is not rocket science, although with
the prices folks like Cessna charge, you'd think it was. I totally respect
your point of using only the "expensive brand" prop bolts, and when it comes
time for mine, I'll probably do the same thing, but just because of the
convenience, nothing else. But no doubt in my mind someone with the expertise
and inclination could easily duplicate those. Any materials engineers or
machinists out there want to weigh in on this one?
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR (that's right, 10 min. from Van's, lucky me.)
RV6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mixture Cable Solution |
In a message dated 5/26/01 8:48:54 AM Pacific Daylight Time, pbesing(at)rmi.net
writes:
<< I just have an extension off the bottom of the panel. So, for that exact
configuration, RV-6, O-360, Van's Mixture bracket (for the O-360), and the
cable mounted at the bottom of the panel, it will work perfectly. >>
Paul: Thanks for the tip on the RV-9A mixture cable. What have you found
that works for the throttle cable in your set up? I am using the same
arrangement for the mixture and throttle that you describe but I am also
using a modified Van's center console for auxiliary controls (carb heat,
manual trim, cabin heat, etc.)
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 05/25/01 |
Jerry2DT(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 5/25/01 10:54:05 PM, rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
>
> << you got to be kidding, have a machine shop make the prop bolts! My life is
> worth more than a set of bolts.... Tom Schad A&P IA >>
>
> With all due respect.... ANY material such as stainless or nitrided steel or
> whatever can be EXACTLY duplicated. This is not rocket science, although with
> the prices folks like Cessna charge, you'd think it was. I totally respect
> your point of using only the "expensive brand" prop bolts, and when it comes
> time for mine, I'll probably do the same thing, but just because of the
> convenience, nothing else. But no doubt in my mind someone with the expertise
> and inclination could easily duplicate those. Any materials engineers or
> machinists out there want to weigh in on this one?
>
> Jerry Cochran
> Wilsonville, OR (that's right, 10 min. from Van's, lucky me.)
> RV6a wings
>
Jerry
Anyone can duplicate them if they have the right equipment. And the
quality control of material is a big factor. The point he was trying
to make is that anybody cannot just take some material and cut threads
they need to be rolled threads and not many of us have the equipment to
do that.
Jerry Springer
Hillsboro, OR (5 minutes from Van's shop by RV, lucky me, I can fly there. :))
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Leak |
Hey Al,
why not use screws and nut plates and a gasket, what if someday you need to
get in there again?
Kevin
Fiberglass is driving me to drink
-9A
>I have decided to make an access hole in the baffle plate to gain access
>to
>the tank interior to fix a leaky rivet. I made a cover plate of .063"
>with a circle of 24 rivets. That many rivets puts them on about 9/16"
>centers which is slightly closer together than the tank skin to baffle
>plate
>row of rivets on the RV-9A. I plan on using 1/8" blind rivets to fasten
>the
>cover plate on. Any suggestions as to which of the many blind rivets
>Vans
>supply's would be a good choice?
>Albert Gardner
>Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Leak |
Many thanks for the advice on the tank leak from several people, some who
replied privately. Although it sounds like the circle of 24 blind rivets is
overkill, it will match the 2 gallons of proseal I'm going to put into that
part of the tank. ;-)
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
Working on tanks, again.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg V Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: RV-8 Vx & Vy? |
I'm using Vx=75 and Vy=95 knots. Best glide is about Vy too. Here are some
other numbers collected:
7000 ft, 78% power, 2780 RPM, full throttle, GPS speed check: 163, 175,
177, 191average high cruise ground speed of 176 knots = 202.4 mph
45% power to maintain 65KI at full flaps
25% power to maintain 65KI at flaps
21% power to maintain 65KI at 0 flaps
Stall, 6500 ft, no flaps, GPS speed check: 50KI, 51 knots into wind; 51KI,
71 knots downwindcall it 50 KI and 60 knots ground speed (= 70 mph)
Stall, 6500 ft, full flaps, GPS speed check: 40KI, 42 knots into wind;
40KI, 56 knots downwindcall it 40 KI and 49 knots groundspeed (= 56 mph)
Level 100 KI at 5000 ft took 23% power
Using Technology Kitchen Engine Power Monitor
Greg Miller
RV8 N89GM, 55 hrs TT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 11:19 AM
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Vx & Vy?
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Flying RV-8ers,
What are you using for Vx and Vy?
Also, what have you determined as "best glide" speed?
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg V Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: insurance |
I have insurance through AIG: $60K hull and $1M liability for $1300/yr. Had
to fly the first 25 hr without insurance though, since that was their
minimum.
Greg Miller
RV8 N89GM, 55 hr
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 9:35 PM
Subject: RE: RV8-List: insurance
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen"
Whoops. Spoke to soon. I just received a cancellation notice from
GreatAmerican, the underwriter for my renters insurance from
NationAir/VanGuard. "Because we have discontinued writing your class and
type of risk."
In my book, insurance rates right up there with taxes and root canals!!
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
> Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 11:26 AM
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV8-List: insurance
>
>
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen"
>
> The Van's-sponsered insurance, VanGuard, offers project coverage.
> I have my
> renters ins through them too. So far, so good. There is more
> info on Van's
> website.
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 fuse
> Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> Web: http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 05/24/01 |
Jerry:
Yes, I think they can be that exotic. These bolts operate in an extremely
difficult environment: shock, vibration, oscillating loads and more. They
must be free of all residual stress, have no crystalline faults in the
material and be corrosion proof, among other things. Your average machine
shop can't come close.
The suppliers of these things are probably making more than a good buck on
them, but after paying for the product liability insurance they may not be
doing as well as we think.
Just my opinion.
George Kilishek
N888GK (reserved)
99% done. Probably never be finished.
>From: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 05/24/01
>Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 16:33:54 EDT
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
>
>Re the prop bolts....
>
>Find out what material they're made from (must be gold :-)) and any machine
>shop can machine the threads for you. Heck, it can't be THAT exotic, can
>it?
>
>Jerry Cochran
>RV6a wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PPG Concept cleanup solvent |
Concept is a *great* paint. I just finished painting the trim on my 6A and
I'm amazed at how easy that stuff is to use. Ask the guy at the paint store
what they recommend for gun cleaner. The place I bought my paint
recommended MS100 general purpose cleaner. It worked great and was only
$9/gallon. Probably a lot cheaper than the PPG product.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours (Finally painted!)
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)micron.net
> I am about to spray some interior parts with PPG Concept DCC Acrylic
> Urethane. The PPG spec sheet says to use DX590 All Purpose Cleanup
Solvent.
> My question: Can I use laquer thinner as a cleanup solvent?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Crawford <toys(at)ufl.edu> |
Does anyone know what kind of wire is used in the RV fuel tanks that
have the capacitive fuel senders? I am on the second tank, and came up
short. Is the unshielded MIL W-22759/16 adequate in terms of fuel
resistance? 20 gauge?
Thanks
--
Tom Crawford
Gainesville, FL
N262TC Flying
N???TC Wings
Mailto:toys(at)ufl.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Root Gascolator & Primer LInes |
Am wanting to mount the boost pump and gascolator in the left wing root
area of my -6 fuselage as many have, to get the fuel pump and
connections out of the cockpit and to get the gascolator out of the
engine compartment - but I also want to use the top port of the
gascolator for priming.
Priming from there will require routing primer line along with fuel
line back into the cockpit and forward.
Have any done that? Problems, real or anticipated?
Thanks!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Van's tachometer wiring |
To those who are using Van's tach....
I cannot locate my instruction sheet for Van's tach. Is the wire between
the sender and the tach shielded? The short length of wire protruding from
the sender appears to be shielded. If shielded is required....it must be
hiding with my instruction sheet!
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
The capacitive sender kit comes with 18AWG. I can't see any reason why you
couldn't use thinner but why not use the prescribed wire?
Are
RV-8 Wings
www.ontariorvator.org VAF-OW
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tom Crawford
Sent: May 26, 2001 5:39 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wire
Does anyone know what kind of wire is used in the RV fuel tanks that
have the capacitive fuel senders? I am on the second tank, and came up
short. Is the unshielded MIL W-22759/16 adequate in terms of fuel
resistance? 20 gauge?
Thanks
--
Tom Crawford
Gainesville, FL
N262TC Flying
N???TC Wings
Mailto:toys(at)ufl.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Saber Mfg prop extension |
In a message dated 5/25/2001 11:40:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com writes:
> I've got a question for those of you who bought the Saber prop extension.
> Whas I the only on who apparently ordered it without the slots for the
> safety wire? I can't figure out how I am going to safety the bolts that
> hold the extension to the crankshaft. Any ideas? Otherwise I'm going to
> send it back to him and ask that he cut the groves in for the safety wire
Scott, I installed a Saber prop extension not long ago. The bolts that hold
the extension to the crankshaft are captured by the rear spinner plate and
prop. They cannot loosen. Only the prop bolts that hold the prop to the
extension have to be safety wired two by two.
Hope this helps - Tom Benton
Treasure Coast Airpark
Port St. Lucie, Florida
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Root Gascolator & Primer LInes |
Hi Mike,
You can tap off the fuel line at the out put of the mechanical engine fuel
pump by using a KB-90-T fitting( Vans 2000 accessories catalog ), or any
place along the fuel line from the fire wall forward. This shortens the
amount primer line that will be exposed to the engine area environment. It
also reduces 1/8' primer line internal resistance.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 3:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wing Root Gascolator & Primer LInes
>
> Am wanting to mount the boost pump and gascolator in the left wing root
> area of my -6 fuselage as many have, to get the fuel pump and
> connections out of the cockpit and to get the gascolator out of the
> engine compartment - but I also want to use the top port of the
> gascolator for priming.
>
> Priming from there will require routing primer line along with fuel
> line back into the cockpit and forward.
>
> Have any done that? Problems, real or anticipated?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Firewall Forward
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | fuel press fluctuation |
I have a good problem for you fellow RVers.
I experienced fuel press fluctuations on the way home from
a 100 mile trip. (fuel injected) I had pressures from 18 to 28
on the engine driven pump. Seemed to be mostly on the right
tank. I had a bouncy fuel press gage anyway so I installed a
new gage. Same problem... Installed a new engine driven pump.
Same problem... Removed the right tank and opened up inboard
access plate. Checked flop tube for security and vaccuum checked
for leaks, none found. Ran a wire thru the vent tube and also blew it
out and found no problem. Closed up and sealed the tank. Filled it
up and flew today. Same problem with even some engine stumbling
thrown in... All fuel lines to the boost pump are 3/8 alum...
Any suggestions out there in RV land???
Stewart RV4 N273SB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John & Teresa Huft" <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | fuel press fluctuation |
Stew
I take it the electric boost pump fixes it?
How about temps - is this just starting with summer warm temps? Does it
happen right away, or after the engine warms up? Up high, or only on climb
and decents in the warmer air (vapor lock?).
What if you switch tanks -- does it change? You mention right tank
suspicions -- if switching tanks fixes it, it would still point at the vent
system. If it just happens all the time, I would borrow a KNOWN good
mechanical pump to try. You never know about those new ones.
You aren't running that car gas stuff are you?
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 6:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: fuel press fluctuation
I have a good problem for you fellow RVers.
I experienced fuel press fluctuations on the way home from
a 100 mile trip. (fuel injected) I had pressures from 18 to 28
on the engine driven pump. Seemed to be mostly on the right
tank. I had a bouncy fuel press gage anyway so I installed a
new gage. Same problem... Installed a new engine driven pump.
Same problem... Removed the right tank and opened up inboard
access plate. Checked flop tube for security and vaccuum checked
for leaks, none found. Ran a wire thru the vent tube and also blew it
out and found no problem. Closed up and sealed the tank. Filled it
up and flew today. Same problem with even some engine stumbling
thrown in... All fuel lines to the boost pump are 3/8 alum...
Any suggestions out there in RV land???
Stewart RV4 N273SB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel press fluctuation |
Sounds like a leak on the vacuum side of the fuel pump. If you can
pressurize the intake line from the tank to the pump, you might find gas
coming out at the leak. Generally, gages bounce when there is air in the
line. Find and fix before the air bubble causes engine stoppage.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: <RVer273sb(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 7:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: fuel press fluctuation
I have a good problem for you fellow RVers.
I experienced fuel press fluctuations on the way home from
a 100 mile trip. (fuel injected) I had pressures from 18 to 28
on the engine driven pump. Seemed to be mostly on the right
tank. I had a bouncy fuel press gage anyway so I installed a
new gage. Same problem... Installed a new engine driven pump.
Same problem... Removed the right tank and opened up inboard
access plate. Checked flop tube for security and vaccuum checked
for leaks, none found. Ran a wire thru the vent tube and also blew it
out and found no problem. Closed up and sealed the tank. Filled it
up and flew today. Same problem with even some engine stumbling
thrown in... All fuel lines to the boost pump are 3/8 alum...
Any suggestions out there in RV land???
Stewart RV4 N273SB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's tachometer wiring |
Jerry: You don't need to use Sheilded Wire. Per Vans instruction use 18 ga.
wire.
Tom
in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Calvert <rv6bldr(at)home.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 6:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: Van's tachometer wiring
>
> To those who are using Van's tach....
>
> I cannot locate my instruction sheet for Van's tach. Is the wire between
> the sender and the tach shielded? The short length of wire protruding
from
> the sender appears to be shielded. If shielded is required....it must be
> hiding with my instruction sheet!
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok
> -6 finish kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel press fluctuation |
Stewart,
Have you seen the Lycoming service letter about the high pressure engine
pumps? They have had 3 of them fail in the test cell. Suspect numbers are
listed. I don't have the letter in front of me, it is out at the hangar.
Bill N48WD
----- Original Message -----
From: <RVer273sb(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 8:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: fuel press fluctuation
>
> I have a good problem for you fellow RVers.
> I experienced fuel press fluctuations on the way home from
> a 100 mile trip. (fuel injected) I had pressures from 18 to 28
> on the engine driven pump. Seemed to be mostly on the right
> tank. I had a bouncy fuel press gage anyway so I installed a
> new gage. Same problem... Installed a new engine driven pump.
> Same problem... Removed the right tank and opened up inboard
> access plate. Checked flop tube for security and vaccuum checked
> for leaks, none found. Ran a wire thru the vent tube and also blew it
> out and found no problem. Closed up and sealed the tank. Filled it
> up and flew today. Same problem with even some engine stumbling
> thrown in... All fuel lines to the boost pump are 3/8 alum...
> Any suggestions out there in RV land???
> Stewart RV4 N273SB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: PPG Concept cleanup solvent |
I too am using PPG Concept, an MS100 was recommended for cleanup
John Danielson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's tachometer wiring |
Thanks Tom.
Jerry
do not archieve
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom & Cathy Ervin <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 8:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's tachometer wiring
>
> Jerry: You don't need to use Sheilded Wire. Per Vans instruction use 18
ga.
> wire.
> Tom
> in Ohio
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jerry Calvert <rv6bldr(at)home.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 6:15 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Van's tachometer wiring
>
>
> >
> > To those who are using Van's tach....
> >
> > I cannot locate my instruction sheet for Van's tach. Is the wire
between
> > the sender and the tach shielded? The short length of wire protruding
> from
> > the sender appears to be shielded. If shielded is required....it must
be
> > hiding with my instruction sheet!
> >
> > Jerry Calvert
> > Edmond Ok
> > -6 finish kit
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jay Sewell" <sewell_fw(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 53 Msgs - 05/25/01 |
>Prop bolts, help!
>
>
>Try Van's, I think they have all kinds of prop bolts.
>
>Steve Soule Huntington, VT
>
>-----Original Message-----
>
>I have a 0-320 with 3/8 prop bolts. After being discouraged from changing
>to 7/16, I now have not been able to find AN6-73's 0r An6W73 bolts. They
>are 3/8 bolts 7 1/2 " long. I have my prop, and spacer and hate to change
>now. Aircraft Spruce has 8" bolts for a measly $40 each (Geeeezzzzzzzzz) I
>have called bolt suppliers and they don't want to talk if its for an
>airplane.
>
>Please anyone have any ideas???
Not many suppliers stock these bolts with drilled heads. Try contacting Sam
Tilleman at Saber Mfg. He makes prop extensions and stocks the bolts you're
looking for. His website is www.sabermfg.com
Jay Sewell
RV6
(Wishing I was far enough along to need prop bolts!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel press fluctuation |
The resistance gauges on my 6 have always fluxuated. I would suspect the
pressure sender.
John Henley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Crawford <toys(at)ufl.edu> |
Are Barstad wrote:
>
>
> The capacitive sender kit comes with 18AWG. I can't see any reason why you
> couldn't use thinner but why not use the prescribed wire?
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
> www.ontariorvator.org VAF-OW
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tom Crawford
> Sent: May 26, 2001 5:39 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Wire
>
>
> Does anyone know what kind of wire is used in the RV fuel tanks that
> have the capacitive fuel senders? I am on the second tank, and came up
> short. Is the unshielded MIL W-22759/16 adequate in terms of fuel
> resistance? 20 gauge?
>
> Thanks
>
> --
> Tom Crawford
> Gainesville, FL
> N262TC Flying
> N???TC Wings
> Mailto:toys(at)ufl.edu
Are,
Thank you for answering one of my questions- the size of wire. Can
anyone answer the rest so I can order some wire? Is MIL-W-22759/16 OK in
terms of fuel resistance? What would you recommend?
Tom Crawford
Gainesville, FL
N262TC Flying
N???TC Wings
Mailto:toys(at)ufl.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Root Gascolator & Primer LInes |
--- ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> mike
> go to
> http://bmnellis.com/BuilderIdeas/DonHughes.htm
> to see a pix of don hughes installation, he by the way is on this
> list
> sometimes.
Yep. Had that one bookmarked.
Don't see any primer line coming from the top of that gascolator
though...
Am I missing something?
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Root Gascolator & Primer LInes |
--- jim jewell wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> You can tap off the fuel line at the out put of the mechanical engine
> fuel
> pump by using a KB-90-T fitting( Vans 2000 accessories catalog ), or
> any
> place along the fuel line from the fire wall forward.
Well, there you go!
Guess I was fixated on the gascolator as source... what you say makes
sense.
Another order off to Van's - have to find something to add to make the
shipping worthwhile!
:)
Thanks El Mucho.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tailwheel springs |
>
>Hi All,
>
>Getting really close to flying my RV-4 and wanted to see how tight the
>springs should be on the tailwheel?
>I have about the width of the control arm on the tailwheel slack, is
>this too much?
Jim,
John Bank's reply was really insightful. There has always been some
dispute about how tight the spring/chain combo should be set up. Different
people have different ideas, and most have some valid reasons. But John is
correct in saying that for the first few hours, the lack of excess play
will be one less problem for you to deal with.
After that, you may want to add a link or two to each side. Here is what I
have found:
There seems to be too much feedback vibration to the arms and eventually to
the airframe if the chains are too tight. Any minor wear, runout, or out of
balance in the tail wheel will be transmitted. I have actually had a shimmy
condition manifest itself immediately after tightening my chains. Please
note, the tighter chains did not cause the shimmy, but they made an
imperfect tail wheel feel like a broken tail wheel.
When I loosened the chains, the shimmy disappeared. After 30-40 hours, I
replaced the tail wheel. Just for educational purposes, I tightened the
chains, and found smooth results. If tail wheels didn't wear unevenly, I
would leave the chain in the "tighter" condition. However, tail wheels do
not wear evenly. Van selected a very small and, thus, less durable tail
wheel for the RV series. The bearings are 5 & 10 cent and the hard rubber
wears unevenly. The tail wheels become less than perfect fairly quickly.
Hell, they start off less than perfect. But this is what we have.
Anyway, some people, myself included, suggest that there will be less wear
to the rudder and towhee arms if the chain has a little slack. Once you are
used to your aircraft, you will find that you can have a lot of slack and
never really notice it.
All this being said, Terry Jantzi has just introduced a steering arm to
replace the chains. I'll bet it works like a dream. Check out his web site
at: <http://www.iwantarocket.com>.
Louis
Louis I. Willig
larywil(at)home.com
RV-4, N180PF, 115 hrs. and climbing fast
I0-360, Hartzell C/S
(610) 668-4964
Penn Valley, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
Ooops - sorry about that Tom. The mil spec on the wire they supplied is:
M22759/16|18 so it looks like you have the right idea.
Are
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tom Crawford
Sent: May 27, 2001 9:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wire
Are Barstad wrote:
>
>
> The capacitive sender kit comes with 18AWG. I can't see any reason why you
> couldn't use thinner but why not use the prescribed wire?
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
> www.ontariorvator.org VAF-OW
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tom Crawford
> Sent: May 26, 2001 5:39 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Wire
>
>
> Does anyone know what kind of wire is used in the RV fuel tanks that
> have the capacitive fuel senders? I am on the second tank, and came up
> short. Is the unshielded MIL W-22759/16 adequate in terms of fuel
> resistance? 20 gauge?
>
> Thanks
>
> --
> Tom Crawford
> Gainesville, FL
> N262TC Flying
> N???TC Wings
> Mailto:toys(at)ufl.edu
Are,
Thank you for answering one of my questions- the size of wire. Can
anyone answer the rest so I can order some wire? Is MIL-W-22759/16 OK in
terms of fuel resistance? What would you recommend?
Tom Crawford
Gainesville, FL
N262TC Flying
N???TC Wings
Mailto:toys(at)ufl.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
| Subject: | Questions answer |
Hi all...
I found the anti-rotation washers here in town at a electronics surplus
place...
About the hobbs meter / oil pressure switch.....I have been thinking, what
about instead of a light, you use a buzzer or dinger like you have in your
car, you know when you leave your keys in, the car is not running, and you
open a door... On a bright day, you could easily overlook the light, and
what if your not in the plane and you turn on the master for some reason?
The dinger would be going and going and you would hear it, but I don't think
you would see the light unless you looked for it...
I also found a local electronics store that has a great supply of electrical
stuff; terminals, connectors, etc., and a really good supply of screws
too...
Thanks to all for the help!
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tailwheel springs |
Thought I would add my thoughts on tailwheel springs. When I bought my -4 I
felt the tailwheel steering was less than ideal. First the springs
themselves were just too strong and resulted in the airplane being far too
sensitive (BTW I do have lots of tailwheel time in C-180s, Citabrias, etc).
There was slack in the chain which I did not care for either. My solution
was to toss out Van's tailwheel springs and I bought a set of springs for
the Citabria from Safe Air Repair (p/n SAR2-1525) (507-373-7129). I then
set the chains such that there is just a little tension on the springs. It
now handles just fine. (This is with a Aviation Products double fork
tailwheel).
A lot of this is personal preference BTW.
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Knight <knightair(at)lv.rmci.net> |
| Subject: | Knight Upholstery for RV Builders |
Re: RV Upholstery Products
RV Builders:
I have been in the upholstery business for 28 years and have been making
upholstery products for kitplanes for 16 years. I have interior kits
available for RV-4, RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8. I also have cabin covers and
other items. I am the supplier of upholstery products for several kitplane
manufacturers. A list of other kitplane interior products available upon
request.
For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (702)
207-6681 or e-mail me at knightair(at)lv.rmci.net. If you e- mail for
information, please mention either "Knight" or "Upholstery" in your
reference line so I can give your request my immediate attention. Photos
available upon request.
Sincerely,
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
"Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
Sam Knight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: insurance |
I'm insured through NationAir (Vanguard group), for $65K hull, $1M
liability, for $1479/year. First year was $1605. That first year of no
claims and getting over the 300 hour total pilot time seemed to help. They
required a five hour checkout in an RV with a CFI. I completed this
requirement with Jeff Ludwig and highly recommend him AND his awesome RV-8.
I also had thirteen total hours (dual) in three different tailwheel
aircraft.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
208 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Knight Upholstery for RV Builders |
I will vouch for this "Fly by Knight" operation... he did the interior of
my RV-4; good quality & a very reasonable price.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Sam Knight <knightair(at)lv.rmci.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2001 11:32 AM
Subject: RV-List: Knight Upholstery for RV Builders
>
> Re: RV Upholstery Products
>
>
> RV Builders:
>
> I have been in the upholstery business for 28 years and have been making
> upholstery products for kitplanes for 16 years. I have interior kits
> available for RV-4, RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8. I also have cabin covers and
> other items. I am the supplier of upholstery products for several
kitplane
> manufacturers. A list of other kitplane interior products available upon
> request.
>
> For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (702)
> 207-6681 or e-mail me at knightair(at)lv.rmci.net. If you e- mail for
> information, please mention either "Knight" or "Upholstery" in your
> reference line so I can give your request my immediate attention. Photos
> available upon request.
>
> Sincerely,
> KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
> "Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
>
> Sam Knight
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
My Norton quarantined a file sent by you as being a virus. Thought you
might want to know.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | fuel press problems |
Listers,
Thank you for all your input on this matter!
I have tried drilling a hole in the tank caps to be
sure it was not a vent problem. It didn't help.
Have have had loss of power 4 times on test
hops. It is getting exciting to say the least.
The elec boost pump so far has restored engine
operation. I will try pressurizing the system next
before sending the theottle body in for flow testing.
Thanks again!
Stewart RV4 N273SB 520 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel press problems |
In a message dated 5/27/01 4:57:34 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
RVer273sb(at)aol.com writes:
> The elec boost pump so far has restored engine
> operation. I will try pressurizing the system next
> before sending the theottle body in for flow testing.
> Thanks again!
> Stewart RV4 N273SB 520 hrs
>
>
>
Have you inspected the fuel strainer in the throttle body?
Fred LaForge RV-4 180 CS EAA tech counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
sorry the plane has been sold
barry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Wiring Through Main Spar... |
Hello All,
Question on wiring. Im building a QB 6A, and the wing spar has a small
hole through which (I assume) to run some wires. I am planning on running
some coax and Autopilot Servo wires, inside some of vans plastic conduit,
through this hole in the spar. If I wire it now with the wing not installed
(fishing the conduit through the bulkhead hole just below the control horn
going to the elevator) when it comes time to install the wings I will have to
undo my coax connectors and AP connectors to shove them back through the hole
to install the wing. My idea (and hence my question) is to simply cut the
inboard side of the circular hole all the way to the end of the spar so that
it slides over the conduit which is currently in place. My concern is of
course should I do this? The distance is very small, about 1/2 in, and it
is through only the very thin portion of the spar. In short, I expand their
existing hole to make a notch instead. Any comments, suggestions, or better
ideas? I have worked most of my other wires through a small center console
to the panel, but am running out of room for the bigger coax.
Thanks for the inputs...
Kurt, OKC, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wiring Through Main Spar... |
That's the way I did it
Cash Copeland
In a message dated 5/27/2001 8:34:37 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
KAKlewin(at)aol.com writes:
My idea (and hence my question) is to simply cut the
> inboard side of the circular hole all the way to the end of the spar so that
> it slides over the conduit which is currently in place. My concern is of
> course should I do this? The distance is very small, about 1/2 in, and it
> is through only the very thin portion of the spar. In short, I expand
> their
> existing hole to make a notch instead. Any comments, suggestions, or
> better
> ideas?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Murphy <jgmurphy(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Listers.
Thanks for your replies about dimpling the firewall.
Next dumb question. Whereabouts on the firewall, apart from around the
engine mount "feet", can you get away with using universal head rivets
without adversley affecting attachment of accessories to the firewall. I
will flush rivet the diagonal angles, but seems to me we could use
universal head rivets down the side angles and across the bottom angle.
What say you??
Thanks
Graham Murphy
RV-6 Bits & pieces
Blenheim
New Zealand
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Norton <Keith(at)genesysdev.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel press fluctuation |
This is a scary problem. I once lost power on climb out due to a loss of
fuel pressure.
When I had this problem, we finally found out that air was getting into the
fuel lines. I had no fuel leaks, even with the boost pump on. Check to
ensure all fuel line fittings are tight. You can determine if you are
getting air by putting a section of clear tube in-line with the fuel lines
and holding it up so that the clear section is the high point of the system.
I've also seen another case like this where it was caused by vapor lock in
the fuel lines. It only happened on hot days or on climb out. Insulating
the lines fixed the problem.
Please be very careful while you are diagnosing this!
Keith Norton
Spam Can Flyer and RV Wanna Be
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Wiring Through Main Spar... |
After talking to vans , it was deemed acceptable to notch the spar web for
the wiring. I was told if I needed more, I could do the same for the other
spar. This allowed me to separate the current carrying wires from the
antennae leads.
Steven DiNieri
Niagara Falls, New York
RV-6A, P28A-160
Hello All,
Question on wiring. Im building a QB 6A, and the wing spar has a
small
hole through which (I assume) to run some wires. I am planning on running
some coax and Autopilot Servo wires, inside some of vans plastic conduit,
through this hole in the spar. If I wire it now with the wing not
installed
(fishing the conduit through the bulkhead hole just below the control horn
going to the elevator) when it comes time to install the wings I will have
to
undo my coax connectors and AP connectors to shove them back through the
hole
to install the wing. My idea (and hence my question) is to simply cut the
inboard side of the circular hole all the way to the end of the spar so that
it slides over the conduit which is currently in place. My concern is of
course should I do this? The distance is very small, about 1/2 in, and it
is through only the very thin portion of the spar. In short, I expand their
existing hole to make a notch instead. Any comments, suggestions, or
better
ideas? I have worked most of my other wires through a small center console
to the panel, but am running out of room for the bigger coax.
Thanks for the inputs...
Kurt, OKC, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 tip-up roll bar |
I am working on the cabin frame (= roll bar) for mt 6A tip-up and
wondering how important the thickness dimension is. I guess the major
problems derive from the fact that these F-631A curved channels are
inevitably a little warped like a potato chip and, especially, the curve
where they formed the flange has a rather large radius that makes it
hard to fit the F631B straps in there flat. I have the aft side clecoed
together and am trying to get the forward side to fit over it so that it
is 1.5" thick at all places and so the straps that splice the two
sections together are flush against the flanges of the F-631's etc.
I've got the aft portion screwed down to the bench to make sure it stays
flat.
What I have right now - after beveling the outside edges of the straps
with my belt sander to make it better lie in the curve where the flange
meets the web of the f-631A - is 1.5" thickness at the bottom ends
(where it attaches to the fuselage), but elsewhere it runs 1/16 to
perhaps 3/32 thicker. I think the edge distances of the rivets are going
to be OK.
Is this typical? Seems like it's hard to get right. What have you
tip-up folks seen as far as the thickness & straightness of your roll
bar? I don't know if it's time to leave well-enough alone.
--
Tom Sargent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Rivets |
Hello Graham,
I chose to use the called out flush rivets because:
Aside from the conveniences of the flat surface that flush rivets provide,
the issue of mechanical structural integrity does theoretically come into
play.
Any and all vibration that is created up forward be it from engine or
landing gear to some extent will be first felt by and transmitted through
the firewall.
The dimpled flush riveting process mechanically locks the various layers of
materials together in such a way as to somewhat preclude the lateral
movement of the "layers".
The stainless steel sheet used in the firewall is quite thin in proportion
the aluminum that is used in conjunction with it.
The thin edge of the stainless sheeting when subjected to high, low and
harmonic vibration might or could allow the stainless sheeting to saw and or
fret at the shanks of "universal rivets"
By dimpling and flush riveting the areas in question the probability of the
above mentioned fretting is noticeably reduced.
In light of the fact that harmonic vibration tends to focus itself in
unpredictable areas it would seem to be best to flush rivet all of the
firewall.
Besides the little extra work will pay off in less repeated effort during
mounting of equipment and future cleanups.
Listers, if this information is flawed or leaves any points unmentioned
please chime in and help out
Keep on building Graham
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: Graham Murphy <jgmurphy(at)xtra.co.nz>
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2001 3:55 AM
Subject: RV-List: Firewall Rivets
Next dumb question. Whereabouts on the firewall, apart from around
the
> engine mount "feet", can you get away with using universal head rivets
> without adversley affecting attachment of accessories to the firewall. I
> will flush rivet the diagonal angles, but seems to me we could use
> universal head rivets down the side angles and across the bottom angle.
>
> What say you??
> Thanks
>
> Graham Murphy
> RV-6 Bits & pieces
> Blenheim
> New Zealand
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: 8A spar center section rivets |
Matt:
Did you ever get a definitive answer on this? My bird is about ready to fly
and I haven't put those rivets in yet.
George
N888GK (reserved)
>From: Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: 8A spar center section rivets
>Date: Sat, 19 May 2001 09:12:26 -0700
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: Matthew Gelber
>
>I'm currently installing the floors and control tube in my -8A, and am
>wondering when I rivet the two halves of the wing center section (F-804A
>and
>F-804B) together. I'm referring to the row of 12, 1/8" rivets that attach
>the upper forward flanges together. The bottom side was riveted together
>when I put the skins on, but I can't seem to find a reference to this top
>row of rivets in the manual. Hopefully I didn't overlook it.
>
>I ask because I'm about to drill the bolt holes for the rear stick support.
>Since the front stick support attaches to the front of the center section,
>I
>was wondering if the rivets I'm asking about should already be in.
>
>Matthew
>-8A fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Warren" <jwdub(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 tip-up roll bar |
In my opinion, I think if you're within 1/8" you won't have any problems
with edge distance or with the ultimate fit. There will be 1/4" between the
F631 cabin frame and the canopy frame. Also, once the cabin frame is
rivited together it should be possible to tweek it a bit if necessary.
John Warren
RV-6Q N645W
LaCenter WA
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2001 11:23 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 tip-up roll bar
>
> I am working on the cabin frame (= roll bar) for mt 6A tip-up and
> wondering how important the thickness dimension is. I guess the major
> problems derive from the fact that these F-631A curved channels are
> inevitably a little warped like a potato chip and, especially, the curve
> where they formed the flange has a rather large radius that makes it
> hard to fit the F631B straps in there flat. I have the aft side clecoed
> together and am trying to get the forward side to fit over it so that it
> is 1.5" thick at all places and so the straps that splice the two
> sections together are flush against the flanges of the F-631's etc.
> I've got the aft portion screwed down to the bench to make sure it stays
> flat.
>
> What I have right now - after beveling the outside edges of the
straps
> with my belt sander to make it better lie in the curve where the flange
> meets the web of the f-631A - is 1.5" thickness at the bottom ends
> (where it attaches to the fuselage), but elsewhere it runs 1/16 to
> perhaps 3/32 thicker. I think the edge distances of the rivets are going
> to be OK.
>
> Is this typical? Seems like it's hard to get right. What have
you
> tip-up folks seen as far as the thickness & straightness of your roll
> bar? I don't know if it's time to leave well-enough alone.
> --
> Tom Sargent.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: 8A spar center section rivets |
George-
I heard from about a half dozen people, who all said you can put them in
anytime after flipping the fuse right side up (once it looks like a canoe),
as long as you have a correctly sized spacer (mine are machined aluminum),
or the wings installed and bolted up snugly. I went ahead and drilled and
riveted mine in place.
Matthew
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sally and George
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2001 2:41 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: 8A spar center section rivets
Matt:
Did you ever get a definitive answer on this? My bird is about ready to fly
and I haven't put those rivets in yet.
George
N888GK (reserved)
>From: Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: 8A spar center section rivets
>Date: Sat, 19 May 2001 09:12:26 -0700
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: Matthew Gelber
>
>I'm currently installing the floors and control tube in my -8A, and am
>wondering when I rivet the two halves of the wing center section (F-804A
>and
>F-804B) together. I'm referring to the row of 12, 1/8" rivets that attach
>the upper forward flanges together. The bottom side was riveted together
>when I put the skins on, but I can't seem to find a reference to this top
>row of rivets in the manual. Hopefully I didn't overlook it.
>
>I ask because I'm about to drill the bolt holes for the rear stick support.
>Since the front stick support attaches to the front of the center section,
>I
>was wondering if the rivets I'm asking about should already be in.
>
>Matthew
>-8A fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mixture Cable Solution |
The longer of the two throttle cables from Van's (47"?) worked perfectly.
The only issue was the mixture cable.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: <HCRV6(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 10:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Mixture Cable Solution
>
> In a message dated 5/26/01 8:48:54 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
pbesing(at)rmi.net
> writes:
>
> << I just have an extension off the bottom of the panel. So, for that
exact
> configuration, RV-6, O-360, Van's Mixture bracket (for the O-360), and the
> cable mounted at the bottom of the panel, it will work perfectly. >>
>
>
> Paul: Thanks for the tip on the RV-9A mixture cable. What have you
found
> that works for the throttle cable in your set up? I am using the same
> arrangement for the mixture and throttle that you describe but I am also
> using a modified Van's center console for auxiliary controls (carb heat,
> manual trim, cabin heat, etc.)
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, finish kit stuff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring Through Main Spar... |
The best way I found was to cut a rectangular notch in the middle of the
spar. Half of the rectangle will be on one wing and the other half on the
other. This way, you can take the wings out without taking out wire. Then
you cut a matching hole on the bulkhead. I made a template with bolt holes
in it, and matched it up to the wing, drew the one half rectangle, and then
repeated the process with the other wing. Then you take that template and
put it on the bulkhead and draw your rectangle and they will match up
perfectly. If you need pics, let me know, I'll shoot and send 'em.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: <KAKlewin(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2001 8:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wiring Through Main Spar...
>
> Hello All,
>
> Question on wiring. Im building a QB 6A, and the wing spar has a
small
> hole through which (I assume) to run some wires. I am planning on running
> some coax and Autopilot Servo wires, inside some of vans plastic conduit,
> through this hole in the spar. If I wire it now with the wing not
installed
> (fishing the conduit through the bulkhead hole just below the control horn
> going to the elevator) when it comes time to install the wings I will have
to
> undo my coax connectors and AP connectors to shove them back through the
hole
> to install the wing. My idea (and hence my question) is to simply cut
the
> inboard side of the circular hole all the way to the end of the spar so
that
> it slides over the conduit which is currently in place. My concern is of
> course should I do this? The distance is very small, about 1/2 in, and
it
> is through only the very thin portion of the spar. In short, I expand
their
> existing hole to make a notch instead. Any comments, suggestions, or
better
> ideas? I have worked most of my other wires through a small center
console
> to the panel, but am running out of room for the bigger coax.
>
> Thanks for the inputs...
>
> Kurt, OKC, OK
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 tip-up roll bar |
You are not alone..it was hard...get it as close as you can and be done with
it.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2001 11:23 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 tip-up roll bar
>
> I am working on the cabin frame (= roll bar) for mt 6A tip-up and
> wondering how important the thickness dimension is. I guess the major
> problems derive from the fact that these F-631A curved channels are
> inevitably a little warped like a potato chip and, especially, the curve
> where they formed the flange has a rather large radius that makes it
> hard to fit the F631B straps in there flat. I have the aft side clecoed
> together and am trying to get the forward side to fit over it so that it
> is 1.5" thick at all places and so the straps that splice the two
> sections together are flush against the flanges of the F-631's etc.
> I've got the aft portion screwed down to the bench to make sure it stays
> flat.
>
> What I have right now - after beveling the outside edges of the
straps
> with my belt sander to make it better lie in the curve where the flange
> meets the web of the f-631A - is 1.5" thickness at the bottom ends
> (where it attaches to the fuselage), but elsewhere it runs 1/16 to
> perhaps 3/32 thicker. I think the edge distances of the rivets are going
> to be OK.
>
> Is this typical? Seems like it's hard to get right. What have
you
> tip-up folks seen as far as the thickness & straightness of your roll
> bar? I don't know if it's time to leave well-enough alone.
> --
> Tom Sargent.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Questions answer |
Bill,
I used Lectric' Bob's wiring diagram located at:
http://aeroelectric.com/Catalog/switch/switch.html#s710-1
The oil pressure switch serves as a ground switch for a warning device. I
used a small Spezio buzzer that has the option of a steady tone or
alternating tone. I went with the alternating tone and I also added a small
toggle switch between the bus and the buzzer so I can turn off the buzzer if
for some reason I want to turn on the master without starting the engine. I
just have to remember to flip the switch back on afterwards!! Guess I will
add it to the pre-flight checklist.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 finish kit
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane <n8vd(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2001 9:33 AM
Subject: RV-List: Questions answer
>
> Hi all...
>
> I found the anti-rotation washers here in town at a electronics surplus
> place...
>
> About the hobbs meter / oil pressure switch.....I have been thinking, what
> about instead of a light, you use a buzzer or dinger like you have in your
> car, you know when you leave your keys in, the car is not running, and you
> open a door... On a bright day, you could easily overlook the light, and
> what if your not in the plane and you turn on the master for some reason?
> The dinger would be going and going and you would hear it, but I don't
think
> you would see the light unless you looked for it...
>
> I also found a local electronics store that has a great supply of
electrical
> stuff; terminals, connectors, etc., and a really good supply of screws
> too...
>
> Thanks to all for the help!
>
> -Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fwd: Fuel Supply |
kieth and listers
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Full-name: RVer273sb
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 19:00:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Fuel Supply
Gary,
This is an airflow performance system. Fuel goes from
each side to the selector, thru the selector to the 100 micron
filter to the electric boost pump module. The module is an
assembly which consists of the pump, pressure relief and
check valve. The fuel from the press relief returns back to
the inlet of the filter. From the boost pump fuel goes to the inlet
of the engine pump and out of this to the throttle body, then to
the purge valve (shuts of the fuel to the flow divider and dumps
it back to the rigjt tank, (between the tank and the selector
valve) From the purge valve fuel goes to the flow divider ect.
I' ve pressure checked the lines and vents as well as a new
engine pump and gage. This problem just started and is getting
worse it seems. The boost pump has always restored fuel press
so far. I have disconnected the boost pump from the eng pump
and used the boost pump to empty the tanks, No appreciable
flow difference here.
Thanks, Stewart
From
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph Koger" <kogrh(at)willinet.net> |
>Sat around 3:30 PM, Keith Campbell took to the air with N215KC for the
first
time! His RV-6 with a 150 HP Lycoming preformed like a champion. Keith has
many years of building airplanes, for this is his fourth one. He has built
an early RV-4, another RV-6 and now this RV-6. His two previous RV's were
award winners at many shows and I would expect that this one will be also in
the running. Before RV's, he built and flew for many years a single place
Rand KR, that was painted and looked like a military fighter plane.
Keith is not on the web so I can relay messages to him.
Remember the Boone, IA RV fly-in that will be held June 9. Just an informal
day with a catered lunch severed at noon.
Ralph Koger
RV-6A N16RK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: 8A spar center section rivets |
Mathew
According to the drawings, one has to install a platenut on each side
for the front seat support. With the platenuts installed, how does the
landing gear bracket fit...looks like I will have to install these
platenuts after the landing gear brackets are installed. I am kinda
thinking leaving the platenuts off and putting # 8 locknuts instead.
Gert
Matthew Gelber wrote:
>
>
> George-
>
> I heard from about a half dozen people, who all said you can put them in
> anytime after flipping the fuse right side up (once it looks like a canoe),
> as long as you have a correctly sized spacer (mine are machined aluminum),
> or the wings installed and bolted up snugly. I went ahead and drilled and
> riveted mine in place.
>
> Matthew
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sally and George
> Sent: Monday, May 28, 2001 2:41 PM
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: 8A spar center section rivets
>
>
> Matt:
>
> Did you ever get a definitive answer on this? My bird is about ready to fly
> and I haven't put those rivets in yet.
>
> George
> N888GK (reserved)
>
> >From: Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net>
> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV8-List: 8A spar center section rivets
> >Date: Sat, 19 May 2001 09:12:26 -0700
> >
> >--> RV8-List message posted by: Matthew Gelber
> >
> >I'm currently installing the floors and control tube in my -8A, and am
> >wondering when I rivet the two halves of the wing center section (F-804A
> >and
> >F-804B) together. I'm referring to the row of 12, 1/8" rivets that attach
> >the upper forward flanges together. The bottom side was riveted together
> >when I put the skins on, but I can't seem to find a reference to this top
> >row of rivets in the manual. Hopefully I didn't overlook it.
> >
> >I ask because I'm about to drill the bolt holes for the rear stick support.
> >Since the front stick support attaches to the front of the center section,
> >I
> >was wondering if the rivets I'm asking about should already be in.
> >
> >Matthew
> >-8A fuse
> >
> >
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | First Flight of N747BS |
Another first flight. After 2825 hours and 5 years, N747BS took to the sky.
Control surfaces appear to be in trim and I don't remember using any rudder.
I did look back and see the elevator nicely lined up with the H.S. in level
flight. Vso is known to be less than 55 mph since that is when I gave it
power again. Unfortunately, all of the messing I did with the Fuel injection
seems to have caused a miss at higher RPM, so I have no idea of top end.
Temps and pressures were fine.
Flying and tinkering,
Brian Eckstein
6A IO-360
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 tip-up roll bar |
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2001 6:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6 tip-up roll bar
I decided after two sets of straps that this is pretty much a bastard part!! I
did it like Paul said "Got it as close as I could and moved on". My roll bar is
about 1/16" too wide (as compared w/ the plans). After worrying with it for
a day or two I finally said "F___ It, I'm building an airplane not a space shuttle"
Tommy
Ridgetop, Tn WeaselWorks
RV 6A Finishing Fuselage
You are not alone..it was hard...get it as close as you can and be done with
it.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2001 11:23 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 tip-up roll bar
>
> I am working on the cabin frame ( roll bar) for mt 6A tip-up and
> wondering how important the thickness dimension is. I guess the major
> problems derive from the fact that these F-631A curved channels are
> inevitably a little warped like a potato chip and, especially, the curve
> where they formed the flange has a rather large radius that makes it
> hard to fit the F631B straps in there flat. I have the aft side clecoed
> together and am trying to get the forward side to fit over it so that it
> is 1.5" thick at all places and so the straps that splice the two
> sections together are flush against the flanges of the F-631's etc.
> I've got the aft portion screwed down to the bench to make sure it stays
> flat.
>
> What I have right now - after beveling the outside edges of the
straps
> with my belt sander to make it better lie in the curve where the flange
> meets the web of the f-631A - is 1.5" thickness at the bottom ends
> (where it attaches to the fuselage), but elsewhere it runs 1/16 to
> perhaps 3/32 thicker. I think the edge distances of the rivets are going
> to be OK.
>
> Is this typical? Seems like it's hard to get right. What have
you
> tip-up folks seen as far as the thickness & straightness of your roll
> bar? I don't know if it's time to leave well-enough alone.
> --
> Tom Sargent.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring Through Main Spar... |
OK, that gets the wires through the spar. How are you guys taking the wires
back to the tail? On my QB, the hole through the rear spar is pretty much
taken up with push pull tube movement. And then you have the same situation
at the baggage bulkhead. Another question I have is, if you bring the wires
forward through the main spar and you don't have a center console, what
then?
Ed Holyoke
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net>
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2001 4:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wiring Through Main Spar...
>
> The best way I found was to cut a rectangular notch in the middle of the
> spar. Half of the rectangle will be on one wing and the other half on the
> other. This way, you can take the wings out without taking out wire.
Then
> you cut a matching hole on the bulkhead. I made a template with bolt
holes
> in it, and matched it up to the wing, drew the one half rectangle, and
then
> repeated the process with the other wing. Then you take that template and
> put it on the bulkhead and draw your rectangle and they will match up
> perfectly. If you need pics, let me know, I'll shoot and send 'em.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Finish Kit (Still)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <KAKlewin(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2001 8:31 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Wiring Through Main Spar...
>
>
> >
> > Hello All,
> >
> > Question on wiring. Im building a QB 6A, and the wing spar has a
> small
> > hole through which (I assume) to run some wires. I am planning on
running
> > some coax and Autopilot Servo wires, inside some of vans plastic
conduit,
> > through this hole in the spar. If I wire it now with the wing not
> installed
> > (fishing the conduit through the bulkhead hole just below the control
horn
> > going to the elevator) when it comes time to install the wings I will
have
> to
> > undo my coax connectors and AP connectors to shove them back through the
> hole
> > to install the wing. My idea (and hence my question) is to simply cut
> the
> > inboard side of the circular hole all the way to the end of the spar so
> that
> > it slides over the conduit which is currently in place. My concern is
of
> > course should I do this? The distance is very small, about 1/2 in, and
> it
> > is through only the very thin portion of the spar. In short, I expand
> their
> > existing hole to make a notch instead. Any comments, suggestions, or
> better
> > ideas? I have worked most of my other wires through a small center
> console
> > to the panel, but am running out of room for the bigger coax.
> >
> > Thanks for the inputs...
> >
> > Kurt, OKC, OK
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MicreDude(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 tip-up roll bar |
I have lots of RV questions. I am considering the QB 7 I would like to talk
to some one who is building one. this would be my first project. any input
would be helpful Thanks Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring Through Main Spar... |
The wires went down to the floor, along the bulkheads to just aft of the
lightening holes. Then I have snap busings installed where they take a turn
outboard into the area under the seats. You can then run them back between
the seat ribs. For the wires, I have a piece of Van's conduit running along
the floor, up the battery box, and behind the panel. I may fabricate some
type of channel to screw to the floor to cover it, but it doesn't really
bother me.
Let me know if you would like pictures. I have all of my floor pans off
right now.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Finish Kit (Still)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2001 5:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wiring Through Main Spar...
>
> OK, that gets the wires through the spar. How are you guys taking the
wires
> back to the tail? On my QB, the hole through the rear spar is pretty much
> taken up with push pull tube movement. And then you have the same
situation
> at the baggage bulkhead. Another question I have is, if you bring the
wires
> forward through the main spar and you don't have a center console, what
> then?
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)rmi.net>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, May 28, 2001 4:00 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Wiring Through Main Spar...
>
>
> >
> > The best way I found was to cut a rectangular notch in the middle of the
> > spar. Half of the rectangle will be on one wing and the other half on
the
> > other. This way, you can take the wings out without taking out wire.
> Then
> > you cut a matching hole on the bulkhead. I made a template with bolt
> holes
> > in it, and matched it up to the wing, drew the one half rectangle, and
> then
> > repeated the process with the other wing. Then you take that template
and
> > put it on the bulkhead and draw your rectangle and they will match up
> > perfectly. If you need pics, let me know, I'll shoot and send 'em.
> >
> > Paul Besing
> > RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> > Finish Kit (Still)
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <KAKlewin(at)aol.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2001 8:31 PM
> > Subject: RV-List: Wiring Through Main Spar...
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Hello All,
> > >
> > > Question on wiring. Im building a QB 6A, and the wing spar has
a
> > small
> > > hole through which (I assume) to run some wires. I am planning on
> running
> > > some coax and Autopilot Servo wires, inside some of vans plastic
> conduit,
> > > through this hole in the spar. If I wire it now with the wing not
> > installed
> > > (fishing the conduit through the bulkhead hole just below the control
> horn
> > > going to the elevator) when it comes time to install the wings I will
> have
> > to
> > > undo my coax connectors and AP connectors to shove them back through
the
> > hole
> > > to install the wing. My idea (and hence my question) is to simply
cut
> > the
> > > inboard side of the circular hole all the way to the end of the spar
so
> > that
> > > it slides over the conduit which is currently in place. My concern is
> of
> > > course should I do this? The distance is very small, about 1/2 in,
and
> > it
> > > is through only the very thin portion of the spar. In short, I expand
> > their
> > > existing hole to make a notch instead. Any comments, suggestions, or
> > better
> > > ideas? I have worked most of my other wires through a small center
> > console
> > > to the panel, but am running out of room for the bigger coax.
> > >
> > > Thanks for the inputs...
> > >
> > > Kurt, OKC, OK
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight of N747BS |
Congrats man....live it up
Bill
-4 wings
>
> Another first flight. After 2825 hours and 5 years, N747BS took to the
sky.
> Control surfaces appear to be in trim and I don't remember using any
rudder.
> I did look back and see the elevator nicely lined up with the H.S. in
level
> flight. Vso is known to be less than 55 mph since that is when I gave it
> power again. Unfortunately, all of the messing I did with the Fuel
injection
> seems to have caused a miss at higher RPM, so I have no idea of top end.
> Temps and pressures were fine.
>
> Flying and tinkering,
> Brian Eckstein
> 6A IO-360
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Fuel Supply |
> Gary,
> This is an airflow performance system. Fuel goes from
> each side to the selector, thru the selector to the 100 micron
> filter to the electric boost pump module.
Don Rivera (Airflow Perf.) recommends that the filter be between the boost
pump and the engine pump. This way, if the pump does get clogged, at least
the boost pump will be pushing through it instead of sucking through it.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
It is still a work in progress (lots of stuff to add), but I've created a
website. Most of it relates to a little RV-6 project I worked on...
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6/
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight of N747BS |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: tailwheel springs |
In a message dated 5/26/01 11:00:32 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bakerje(at)kfalls.net writes:
> Hi All,
>
> Getting really close to flying my RV-4 and wanted to see how tight the
> springs should be on the tailwheel?
> I have about the width of the control arm on the tailwheel slack, is
> this too much?
>
> thanks
>
> Jim Baker
> N513J
>
>
I set mine a little lose with reasonably weak springs so I have a little more
rudder input than tailwheel and it works fine for me but it is more of a
personal setup. If you live in an area that is windy and or cross winds it
might be better to set up a little tighter spring. Here is a question.....how
are the RV pilots in your area setting there planes up?.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: How much room needed for -6A gear mounts? |
In a message dated 5/29/01 6:31:53 AM Central Daylight Time,
rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< I am a ways from having to do this task, but I was wondering how my fellow
listers accomplished installing their RV-6A main gear mounts in a cramped
space. I have a standard (22 x 22) 2-car garage, and I don't think I can
put both wings on with the fuse upside down in the jig. (Even if it would
fit with the wings ON, there is the matter of having to back the wing off
the distance of the spar stub in order to attach it.)
I am interested in how others have solved this problem. >>
Hi Jim,
I took everything that wasn't fastened down out of the garage and turned the
fuselage diagonally across the garage. I found that I could just barely
slide the wings on. My garage has kind of an entryway and one wing actually
protruded a little into it. The other option is to keep an eye on the
weather forecasts and pick a nice weekend to move it out in the driveway.
The whole process can be done in a day with help and the proper equipment all
set up and ready to go.
It sure is fun to watch the neighbors drive by and see an upside down
airplane in your driveway :>)
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Engine Cowling)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: tailwheel springs |
Jim;
Some people have actually removed their springs in
lieu of direct cables. Less drag, simplicity and
aesthetics. Not recommended for folks who fly off
rough strips though.
Rob Ray
N557RR
--- MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com
>
> In a message dated 5/26/01 11:00:32 PM Pacific
> Daylight Time,
> bakerje(at)kfalls.net writes:
>
>
> > Hi All,
> >
> > Getting really close to flying my RV-4 and wanted
> to see how tight the
> > springs should be on the tailwheel?
> > I have about the width of the control arm on the
> tailwheel slack, is
> > this too much?
> >
> > thanks
> >
> > Jim Baker
> > N513J
> >
> >
>
> I set mine a little lose with reasonably weak
> springs so I have a little more
> rudder input than tailwheel and it works fine for me
> but it is more of a
> personal setup. If you live in an area that is windy
> and or cross winds it
> might be better to set up a little tighter spring.
> Here is a question.....how
> are the RV pilots in your area setting there planes
> up?.
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PPG Concept cleanup solvent |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
05/29/2001 08:18:05 AM
Chris, one of the reasons they call for that type of solvent (prepsol,
acryliclean, etc) is it will not break down your primer, laquer thinner can
be pretty harsh, especially for fresh primer. It may not cut your epoxy
primer but why risk it. IMHO, you are at the most critical point of the
paint job. You will want to remove every fingerprint, and every particle of
contaminant. I would not use anything they don't call for. When you do use
it, put it in a cup and pour it on the surface until flooded, then wipe it
away with a fresh lint free rag or baby diaper. Turn the rag over and don't
reuse the surface of the rag. Defeats the purpose.
Eric
"C J Heitman" (at)matronics.com on 05/26/2001 08:25:40 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: PPG Concept cleanup solvent
I am about to spray some interior parts with PPG Concept DCC Acrylic
Urethane. The PPG spec sheet says to use DX590 All Purpose Cleanup Solvent.
My question: Can I use laquer thinner as a cleanup solvent?
Question 2: I am using DX685 flattening agent to reduce the gloss on the
interior parts. This can result in semi-gloss, eggshell or flat finish
depending on how much DX685 is added. Any recommendations on which level of
gloss works best for interior parts?
Chris Heitman
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Finish kit
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel press fluctuation |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
05/29/2001 08:26:59 AM
Hey Bill,
Can you send me the #s listed? I have an IO-320 and this high pressure
makes me a little nervous. Is this the engine driven pump?
Thanks
Eric
"William Davis" (at)matronics.com on 05/26/2001 09:38:34
PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: fuel press fluctuation
Stewart,
Have you seen the Lycoming service letter about the high pressure engine
pumps? They have had 3 of them fail in the test cell. Suspect numbers are
listed. I don't have the letter in front of me, it is out at the hangar.
Bill N48WD
----- Original Message -----
From: <RVer273sb(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 8:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: fuel press fluctuation
>
> I have a good problem for you fellow RVers.
> I experienced fuel press fluctuations on the way home from
> a 100 mile trip. (fuel injected) I had pressures from 18 to 28
> on the engine driven pump. Seemed to be mostly on the right
> tank. I had a bouncy fuel press gage anyway so I installed a
> new gage. Same problem... Installed a new engine driven pump.
> Same problem... Removed the right tank and opened up inboard
> access plate. Checked flop tube for security and vaccuum checked
> for leaks, none found. Ran a wire thru the vent tube and also blew it
> out and found no problem. Closed up and sealed the tank. Filled it
> up and flew today. Same problem with even some engine stumbling
> thrown in... All fuel lines to the boost pump are 3/8 alum...
> Any suggestions out there in RV land???
> Stewart RV4 N273SB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV8-List Digest: non-OEM prop bolts |
>>Any materials engineers or
>>machinists out there want to weigh in on this one?
You have to be joking!!! no way I'd jump into this one! I learned a long
time ago, everyone who's changed an air filter on their lawn mower qualifies
themselves as a mechanical engineer. ;)
However, I did use new OEM prop bushings and bolts, and I don't worry about
the prop flying off. There are plenty of other things to worry about!
Bryan Jones
Professional Engineer
RV-8 765BJ
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Ralph,
Please extend our congratulations & Well Done to Keith.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (painting the wings)
Niantic, CT (Westerly airport
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight of N747BS |
Brian,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (painting wings)
Niantic, CT (Westerly airport)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: tailwheel springs |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: tailwheel springs
Thread-Index: AcDoQBGhnyo+YmhdQVG4Zu+D3dUBYAAC2Ljw
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Removing the springs would make taxiing a little more exciting!
My tailwheel springs are a bit loose, only because they've loosened up
since I started flying. I don't think the tightness/looseness of the
springs makes any difference during takeoffs and landings. Usually I
have the tail off the ground 1-2 seconds after applying power, and wheel
land so the rudder effectiveness makes more of a difference than the
tailwheel steering does.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 144 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 7:04 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: tailwheel springs
Jim;
Some people have actually removed their springs in
lieu of direct cables. Less drag, simplicity and
aesthetics. Not recommended for folks who fly off
rough strips though.
Rob Ray
N557RR
--- MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com
>
> In a message dated 5/26/01 11:00:32 PM Pacific
> Daylight Time,
> bakerje(at)kfalls.net writes:
>
>
> > Hi All,
> >
> > Getting really close to flying my RV-4 and wanted
> to see how tight the
> > springs should be on the tailwheel?
> > I have about the width of the control arm on the
> tailwheel slack, is
> > this too much?
> >
> > thanks
> >
> > Jim Baker
> > N513J
> >
> >
>
> I set mine a little lose with reasonably weak
> springs so I have a little more
> rudder input than tailwheel and it works fine for me
> but it is more of a
> personal setup. If you live in an area that is windy
> and or cross winds it
> might be better to set up a little tighter spring.
> Here is a question.....how
> are the RV pilots in your area setting there planes
> up?.
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How much room needed for -6A gear mounts? |
This is the point at which I hauled mine to the hangar. I could not see
enough gain to putting the wings on and then taking them off.
Maybe you can taxi to the runway from your garage?
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
> I am a ways from having to do this task, but I was wondering how my fellow
> listers accomplished installing their RV-6A main gear mounts in a cramped
> space. I have a standard (22 x 22) 2-car garage, and I don't think I can
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wiring Through Main Spar... |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
go for it. I have two holes, one on each side.
Don Jordan N6DJ 6A Arlington, Tx
*****************************************
>
> Hello All,
>
> Question on wiring. Im building a QB 6A, and the wing spar
> has a small
> hole through which (I assume) to run some wires. I am planning on
> running
> some coax and Autopilot Servo wires, inside some of vans plastic
> conduit,
> through this hole in the spar. If I wire it now with the wing not
> installed
> (fishing the conduit through the bulkhead hole just below the
> control horn
> going to the elevator) when it comes time to install the wings I
> will have to
> undo my coax connectors and AP connectors to shove them back through
> the hole
> to install the wing. My idea (and hence my question) is to simply
> cut the
> inboard side of the circular hole all the way to the end of the spar
> so that
> it slides over the conduit which is currently in place. My concern
> is of
> course should I do this? The distance is very small, about 1/2 in,
> and it
> is through only the very thin portion of the spar. In short, I
> expand their
> existing hole to make a notch instead. Any comments, suggestions,
> or better
> ideas? I have worked most of my other wires through a small center
> console
> to the panel, but am running out of room for the bigger coax.
>
> Thanks for the inputs...
>
> Kurt, OKC, OK
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
>
>Bill,
>On your wig wag schematic, you show GE 50 watt low voltage track lighting
>bulbs. Are these what your landing/light taxi lights are? I have the
>Duckworth lights and was planning on swapping the 50 watt bulbs for some 100
>watters. Would this overload the wig wag system?
>
>Greg
Greg,
Very important question. To be seen well in daylight, the
wigwaging lights should be at least 100 watts each side and they must come
up to full bright. If the WIgWag rate is to fast, they will not get to
full bright.
Bob
Bob Haan
http://easystreet.com/~bhaan/
bhaan(at)easystreet.com
Portland, OR
RV6A 24461 Wiring the panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Off-On-(On) Switch |
I am trying to find an OFF-ON-(ON) switch to use with my fuel pump / primer
system but have been unable to find one. Everything seems to have center off.
Anywhere I can find one?
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Plumbing & Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "morganhetrick" <morganhetrick(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Root Gascolator & Primer LInes |
consider electric primer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How much room needed for -6A gear mounts? |
Just following the builder's manual to correctly locate the main landing
gear weldments. There is a lot more construction to follow before the
wings go on permanently (and we taxi to the airport :-)
RHDudley
kempthornes wrote:
>
>
> This is the point at which I hauled mine to the hangar. I could not see
> enough gain to putting the wings on and then taking them off.
>
> Maybe you can taxi to the runway from your garage?
>
> Hal Kempthorne
> RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
>
> > I am a ways from having to do this task, but I was wondering how my fellow
> > listers accomplished installing their RV-6A main gear mounts in a cramped
> > space. I have a standard (22 x 22) 2-car garage, and I don't think I can
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Off-On-(On) Switch |
--- Lenleg(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I am trying to find an OFF-ON-(ON) switch to use with my fuel pump /
> primer
> system but have been unable to find one. Everything seems to have
> center off.
>
> Anywhere I can find one?
I recall that same trouble... the solution was to use an ON-ON-(ON), a
2-50 available from Aeroelectric/BC:
http://aeroelectric.com/Catalog/BCcatalog.html
Just leave the bottom ON position disconnected.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | c/s prop techniques |
Listers,
Just wanted to compare notes with those of you flying with constant speed
props on a couple of things: descent technique, and low/slow flight. First
though let me mention that I have an O-360 A1A with a Hartzell HC-C2YK-1BF.
According to the TCDS sheets this combo carries the "No continuous operation
between 2000 and 2250 rpm" restriction, which I have duly placarded above my
tach.
DESCENT: Of course the ability to just point the nose down when it's time
to descend and now worry about overspeeding the engine is one of the
benefits of a c/s prop. In clear air this is easy, just leave the power and
prop alone, dial in some down trim, set up a 1,000 fpm descent and enjoy the
extra speed. When it's bumpy however and you don't want to go that fast (in
order to keep your head off the canopy), I've come up with another
technique. I reduce manifold pressure to around 16", dial the prop back to
1900 rpm, and trim for the same 1,000-1,500 fpm descent. This results in a
slower (airspeed) and very quiet descent. My thinking is that keeping some
manifold pressure on to keep the cylinders warm will help prevent shock
cooling. By slowing the prop way down you can keep more manifold pressure on
for the same horsepower to generate heat and keep cylinder pressures up. Of
course the quiet is an added benefit. I do not go oversquare, ie. I always
keep the manifold pressure in InHg below the rpm in thousands, which is why
1900 rpm with 16" inches seems to work quite well. Anyone tried this? Does
this technique make sense?
SLOW/LOW: Although RVs are all about speed and efficiency there are times
it is fun to just loaf along and look at the scenery. I've found that I can
use the same settings as above, 15-16" MAP and 1900 rpm, which results in
about 135 mph IAS, to just fly low & slow and enjoy the view. The plane
seems quite happy and harmonious in this mode... it's very quiet, and is
just sipping fuel. Anyone know of any problem with this, or tried it
themselves?
Now don't get me wrong, I'm making sure to run the thing hard during the
early hours for proper break-in. I'm at 28 hours now and changed the mineral
oil at 23.1 hours to ashless dispersant type (Aeroshell 80W). I've run it
hard and fast the majority of the time but have been playing with these
reduced power settings recently as I'm returning to the pattern.
What say ye?
Randy Lervold
RV-8, N558RL, 28.2 hrs
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Off-On-(On) Switch |
Hi Len...
I ended up buying mine from B&C:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/switch/switch.html
P/N S700-2-50 Double Pole, Three Position, ON-ON-(ON) Switch . . . . . . .
$19.50
You can see how I wired it here:
http://vondane.com/rv8a/wiring/wd_r4/n8vd_wdwg_r4_frame.htm - select DWG4
Where did you get your primer solenoid?
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lenleg(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 10:25 AM
Subject: RV-List: Off-On-(On) Switch
I am trying to find an OFF-ON-(ON) switch to use with my fuel pump / primer
system but have been unable to find one. Everything seems to have center
off.
Anywhere I can find one?
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Plumbing & Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Off-On-(On) Switch |
Hi Len,
Bob sells them on his website,
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/switch/switch.html#switch
Mike Nellis
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM (res) Building Flaps
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 11:24 AM
Subject: RV-List: Off-On-(On) Switch
>
> I am trying to find an OFF-ON-(ON) switch to use with my fuel pump /
primer
> system but have been unable to find one. Everything seems to have center
off.
>
> Anywhere I can find one?
>
> Len Leggette RV-8A
> N901LL (res)
> Plumbing & Wiring
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | P&W Canada PT-6A on RV-8A |
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
05/29/2001 12:38:29 PM
I'm posting this for a fellow RV builder who is having e-mail problems...
- Jim
While I'm still building my empennage I'm looking
forward. I've planned to use a Lycoming O-360 but
exploring my options.
Does anyone know of a RV-8 with a tubine mounted?
Would this be feasable?
Davidk
David B. Kumhyr
dkumhyr(at)tivoli.com
Telephone +1 512/436-1268
Mobile +1 512/IBM-8900
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Catto Props visit |
This weekend I visited Craig Catto. He has a beautiful home nestled deep,
deep, deep (really deep) in California's gold country. If you ever fly into
Caleveras County Airport ( 0O3 ), look to the hills just to the North, he's
in there somewhere. I say it is deep in gold country because the last 6
miles or so is along Jesus Maria Rd. If you ever drive that road you will
know why it is named as it is.
Craig was very friendly and personable. He walked me out to his workshop
and did some last minute work on my prop (drill the bolt holes to the
correct size.) The whole point of my visit was that Craig offered to cut
the clearance holes for my prop blades into my spinner. Which he did, quite
quickly! He also notched my front spinner plate. He cut the holes in the
spinner such that there was no need for the patch that usually goes behind
the propeller blade. I'll take a picture and post it so you can see what
I'm talking about. He also trued up my spinner and drilled some pilot holes
for me.
He had left the propeller in primer so as not to scratch the paint. He's
painting it up this week and it should be ready next Sunday. (I think I'll
have him meet me in town this time.) While he worked on my spinner I walked
around his small shop, he had 3 three-bladed props in the works, and 4
two-bladed props. He had a wall full of clipboards with orders. He said
most of his business right now is coming from RV builders. The only
clipboard I saw with and RV on it though, was a man named Hawkins who is
building an RV-9A. Are you on the RV list?
Craig was a real good guy to deal with. Did I also mention that he talked
to Saber Mfg and for me and pretty much arranged for delivery of my prop.
ext. and crush plate? If you are considering a wood prop, give Craig a
call. You'll find him very easy to deal with.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: c/s prop techniques |
Nice story Randy. One thing though, these engines are quite happy over square.
Think about it, next time you make your next 'over square' takeoff.
Bruce
Glasair III
Randy Lervold wrote:
>
> for the same horsepower to generate heat and keep cylinder pressures up. Of
> course the quiet is an added benefit. I do not go oversquare, ie. I always
> keep the manifold pressure in InHg below the rpm in thousands, which is why
> 1900 rpm with 16" inches seems to work quite well. Anyone tried this? Does
> this technique make sense?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Catto Props visit |
Scott, He should have been working on mine. I sent him a depost about a
month ago. He should have had Kevin Shannon's prop there pretty much done
unless he already shipped it out.
Greg Tanner
RV-9A WINGS
O-320 D1A/CATTO
N80BR RESERVED
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Van Artsdalen,
Scott
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 11:12 AM
Subject: RV-List: Catto Props visit
This weekend I visited Craig Catto. He has a beautiful home nestled deep,
deep, deep (really deep) in California's gold country. If you ever fly into
Caleveras County Airport ( 0O3 ), look to the hills just to the North, he's
in there somewhere. I say it is deep in gold country because the last 6
miles or so is along Jesus Maria Rd. If you ever drive that road you will
know why it is named as it is.
Craig was very friendly and personable. He walked me out to his workshop
and did some last minute work on my prop (drill the bolt holes to the
correct size.) The whole point of my visit was that Craig offered to cut
the clearance holes for my prop blades into my spinner. Which he did, quite
quickly! He also notched my front spinner plate. He cut the holes in the
spinner such that there was no need for the patch that usually goes behind
the propeller blade. I'll take a picture and post it so you can see what
I'm talking about. He also trued up my spinner and drilled some pilot holes
for me.
He had left the propeller in primer so as not to scratch the paint. He's
painting it up this week and it should be ready next Sunday. (I think I'll
have him meet me in town this time.) While he worked on my spinner I walked
around his small shop, he had 3 three-bladed props in the works, and 4
two-bladed props. He had a wall full of clipboards with orders. He said
most of his business right now is coming from RV builders. The only
clipboard I saw with and RV on it though, was a man named Hawkins who is
building an RV-9A. Are you on the RV list?
Craig was a real good guy to deal with. Did I also mention that he talked
to Saber Mfg and for me and pretty much arranged for delivery of my prop.
ext. and crush plate? If you are considering a wood prop, give Craig a
call. You'll find him very easy to deal with.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> |
| Subject: | Catto Props visit |
Yup, but it's a -4 not a 9A
Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, finishing.
-----Original Message-----
From: Van Artsdalen, Scott [mailto:svanarts(at)unionsafe.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 11:12 AM
Subject: RV-List: Catto Props visit
This weekend I visited Craig Catto. He has a beautiful home nestled deep,
deep, deep (really deep) in California's gold country. If you ever fly into
Caleveras County Airport ( 0O3 ), look to the hills just to the North, he's
in there somewhere. I say it is deep in gold country because the last 6
miles or so is along Jesus Maria Rd. If you ever drive that road you will
know why it is named as it is.
Craig was very friendly and personable. He walked me out to his workshop
and did some last minute work on my prop (drill the bolt holes to the
correct size.) The whole point of my visit was that Craig offered to cut
the clearance holes for my prop blades into my spinner. Which he did, quite
quickly! He also notched my front spinner plate. He cut the holes in the
spinner such that there was no need for the patch that usually goes behind
the propeller blade. I'll take a picture and post it so you can see what
I'm talking about. He also trued up my spinner and drilled some pilot holes
for me.
He had left the propeller in primer so as not to scratch the paint. He's
painting it up this week and it should be ready next Sunday. (I think I'll
have him meet me in town this time.) While he worked on my spinner I walked
around his small shop, he had 3 three-bladed props in the works, and 4
two-bladed props. He had a wall full of clipboards with orders. He said
most of his business right now is coming from RV builders. The only
clipboard I saw with and RV on it though, was a man named Hawkins who is
building an RV-9A. Are you on the RV list?
Craig was a real good guy to deal with. Did I also mention that he talked
to Saber Mfg and for me and pretty much arranged for delivery of my prop.
ext. and crush plate? If you are considering a wood prop, give Craig a
call. You'll find him very easy to deal with.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: c/s prop techniques |
Bruce,
Correctomundo of course. I guess I should have said "other than takeoff mode
etc.". Or said differently I would not run it oversquare at low rpm.
Randy
> Nice story Randy. One thing though, these engines are quite happy over
square.
> Think about it, next time you make your next 'over square' takeoff.
>
> Bruce
> Glasair III
>
> Randy Lervold wrote:
>
> >
> > for the same horsepower to generate heat and keep cylinder pressures up.
Of
> > course the quiet is an added benefit. I do not go oversquare, ie. I
always
> > keep the manifold pressure in InHg below the rpm in thousands, which is
why
> > 1900 rpm with 16" inches seems to work quite well. Anyone tried this?
Does
> > this technique make sense?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Schlosser" <kevinschlosser(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Off-On-(On) Switch |
Try C&K switches. These folks manufacture switches for any industry from gaming to aerospace. They also make custom switches to spec. http://www.ckcorp.com/ I've used thier switches many times before and you get what you pay for... Quality stuff.
I used thier switch builder system and it gave me a part number. You can literally
build any switch you like.
You can pick the actuator, mount type, bushing type, contact type, finishes of
the actuator and the bushing, contact scheme (on-off-on or on-on-off, etc.).
-< PropellerHead >-
----- Original Message -----
From: Lenleg(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 12:58 PM
Subject: RV-List: Off-On-(On) Switch
I am trying to find an OFF-ON-(ON) switch to use with my fuel pump / primer
system but have been unable to find one. Everything seems to have center off.
Anywhere I can find one?
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Plumbing & Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Off-On-(On) Switch |
I used the S700-2-50 which is on-on-(on). They are about $20 and available
from B&C Specialty Products
http://aeroelectric.com/Catalog/BCcatalog.html
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 finish kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 11:24 AM
Subject: RV-List: Off-On-(On) Switch
>
> I am trying to find an OFF-ON-(ON) switch to use with my fuel pump /
primer
> system but have been unable to find one. Everything seems to have center
off.
>
> Anywhere I can find one?
>
> Len Leggette RV-8A
> N901LL (res)
> Plumbing & Wiring
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: c/s prop techniques |
If your talking full power take-off with a cruise FP prop (ie,
overmatched for climb), these engines "are not happy" making over square
take offs. Eustace Bowhay has an article in the archives that lists the
problems with high MAP/low RPM take offs and the potential damage that
cumulatively builds up over time with excess BMEP affecting the
cylinders and associated parts. Unfortunately, with a FP prop there's
not a whole lot that you can do about it. It's a fact of life.
Take offs with a C/S speed prop can be squeaking over square if the prop
control is not set at fine pitch (firewall forward), but not enough to
even hint at engine damage, hence the reason for the control. A recent
full power take off in my plane had 28.30" MAP and 2800 rpm, and that's
with ram air. If it was filtered air, the MAP would've been 27.0" or a
little lower. That's not oversquare.
The more HP your engine produces, the more concerned you have to be
about "oversquare" and if you have a turbo, God help you.
Are we all sure what the definition of "oversquare" is? It is the MAP
of the engine in inches Hg above the rpm of the engine, at any point in
flight, but, considering engine damage, esp. during acceleration! Ask
any pilot who flies a turbocharged airplane.
I'm retired, I'm having another Memorial Day party tommorrow.
Boyd Braem
325 horses and 10:1 pistons
Bruce Gray wrote:
>
>
> Nice story Randy. One thing though, these engines are quite happy over square.
> Think about it, next time you make your next 'over square' takeoff.
>
> Bruce
> Glasair III
>
> Randy Lervold wrote:
>
> >
> > for the same horsepower to generate heat and keep cylinder pressures up. Of
> > course the quiet is an added benefit. I do not go oversquare, ie. I always
> > keep the manifold pressure in InHg below the rpm in thousands, which is why
> > 1900 rpm with 16" inches seems to work quite well. Anyone tried this? Does
> > this technique make sense?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Keeping the Tax Bite Down on your RV |
I've been fighting a running battle with my State's tax authorities regarding
sales tax on my airplane.
Long story short: They sent me a form to fill out for the airplane I bought.
The form indicated that once I filled it out, I could do the math, and send
them a check. Being no dummy, I pointed out that I didn't buy an airplane, I
built it. So, where could I return the blank form? This was not the
anticipated answer, and after some hemming and hawing, they told me that I
need to pay tax on whatever I purchased, i.e. the kit. They didn't bring up
the subject of engine and avionics, so neither did I (although I built all of
these items from scratch... mined the bauxite and iron myself in my
backyard).
In the end, I'll probably pay tax on the subkits I bought from Van's (fuse
and finish). Everything else was either purchased in state, or used, or over
the Internet (no taxes on Internet purchases...). Which brings up the key
point: If your state has sales tax, order everything possible (including
Van's subkits) over the internet. Keep good records and you can minimize
your eventual sales tax liability.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
www.anglefire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: c/s prop techniques |
HEY RANDY
if you went to sun - n - fun or I'm sure it will be there at Oshkosh, the
Lycoming booth. i picked up their lycoming flyer, which more like a book of
compiled flyers. in it is a tremendous amount of info pertaining to the
engine and props. they are trying to put to bed the oversquare myth. in fact
they recommend you run it oversquare because the engine likes it there. this
flyer is a must have, if you own a lycoming and a constant speed prop.
if you can't find it at Oshkosh, I'm sure if you give them a call they will
send one to you. it was free at sun-n-fun.
hope this helps
Scott
Tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Keeping the Tax Bite Down on your RV |
Let me get this straight...if I order by calling Van's I have to pay
tax....if I order by typing to Van's I don't? Come on...you serious?
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 6:17 PM
Subject: RV-List: Keeping the Tax Bite Down on your RV
>
> I've been fighting a running battle with my State's tax authorities
regarding
> sales tax on my airplane.
>
> Long story short: They sent me a form to fill out for the airplane I
bought.
> The form indicated that once I filled it out, I could do the math, and
send
> them a check. Being no dummy, I pointed out that I didn't buy an
airplane, I
> built it. So, where could I return the blank form? This was not the
> anticipated answer, and after some hemming and hawing, they told me that I
> need to pay tax on whatever I purchased, i.e. the kit. They didn't bring
up
> the subject of engine and avionics, so neither did I (although I built all
of
> these items from scratch... mined the bauxite and iron myself in my
> backyard).
>
> In the end, I'll probably pay tax on the subkits I bought from Van's (fuse
> and finish). Everything else was either purchased in state, or used, or
over
> the Internet (no taxes on Internet purchases...). Which brings up the key
> point: If your state has sales tax, order everything possible (including
> Van's subkits) over the internet. Keep good records and you can minimize
> your eventual sales tax liability.
>
> Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
> RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
>
> www.anglefire.com/my/rv6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Keeping the Tax Bite Down on your RV |
Georgia tax authorities, no helpful?! Say it ain't so!
From a former denizen of Brunswick, the armpit of the South.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com [mailto:KBoatri144(at)aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 3:17 PM
To: Rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Keeping the Tax Bite Down on your
RV
I've been fighting a running battle with my State's tax
authorities regarding
sales tax on my airplane.
Long story short: They sent me a form to fill out for the
airplane I bought.
The form indicated that once I filled it out, I could do the
math, and send
them a check. Being no dummy, I pointed out that I didn't
buy an airplane, I
built it. So, where could I return the blank form? This was
not the
anticipated answer, and after some hemming and hawing, they
told me that I
need to pay tax on whatever I purchased, i.e. the kit.
They didn't bring up
the subject of engine and avionics, so neither did I
(although I built all of
these items from scratch... mined the bauxite and iron
myself in my
backyard).
In the end, I'll probably pay tax on the subkits I bought
from Van's (fuse
and finish). Everything else was either purchased in state,
or used, or over
the Internet (no taxes on Internet purchases...). Which
brings up the key
point: If your state has sales tax, order everything
possible (including
Van's subkits) over the internet. Keep good records and you
can minimize
your eventual sales tax liability.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
www.anglefire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)ticnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 tip-up roll bar |
Tom, long ago I wrote some notes re the tip-up canopy. They may not
help you at all but they might be worth a look. They are at
courtesy of Gil Alexander.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
-6A flying past 360 hours
tom sargent wrote:
>
>
> I am working on the cabin frame (= roll bar) for mt 6A tip-up and
> wondering how important the thickness dimension is. I guess the major
> problems derive from the fact that these F-631A curved channels are
> inevitably a little warped like a potato chip and, especially, the curve
> where they formed the flange has a rather large radius that makes it
> hard to fit the F631B straps in there flat. I have the aft side clecoed
> together and am trying to get the forward side to fit over it so that it
> is 1.5" thick at all places and so the straps that splice the two
> sections together are flush against the flanges of the F-631's etc.
> I've got the aft portion screwed down to the bench to make sure it stays
> flat.
>
> What I have right now - after beveling the outside edges of the straps
> with my belt sander to make it better lie in the curve where the flange
> meets the web of the f-631A - is 1.5" thickness at the bottom ends
> (where it attaches to the fuselage), but elsewhere it runs 1/16 to
> perhaps 3/32 thicker. I think the edge distances of the rivets are going
> to be OK.
>
> Is this typical? Seems like it's hard to get right. What have you
> tip-up folks seen as far as the thickness & straightness of your roll
> bar? I don't know if it's time to leave well-enough alone.
> --
> Tom Sargent.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Keeping the Tax Bite Down on your RV |
In my state at least the only thing the sales tax people know is that
you -registered- an AC, the Feds tell them. So if you paid on the kit
that should settle it. I certainly wouldn't volunteer anything.
Jim Bean
RV-8 controls
KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I've been fighting a running battle with my State's tax authorities regarding
> sales tax on my airplane.
>
> Long story short: They sent me a form to fill out for the airplane I bought.
> The form indicated that once I filled it out, I could do the math, and send
> them a check. Being no dummy, I pointed out that I didn't buy an airplane, I
> built it. So, where could I return the blank form? This was not the
> anticipated answer, and after some hemming and hawing, they told me that I
> need to pay tax on whatever I purchased, i.e. the kit. They didn't bring up
> the subject of engine and avionics, so neither did I (although I built all of
> these items from scratch... mined the bauxite and iron myself in my
> backyard).
>
> In the end, I'll probably pay tax on the subkits I bought from Van's (fuse
> and finish). Everything else was either purchased in state, or used, or over
> the Internet (no taxes on Internet purchases...). Which brings up the key
> point: If your state has sales tax, order everything possible (including
> Van's subkits) over the internet. Keep good records and you can minimize
> your eventual sales tax liability.
>
> Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
> RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
>
> www.anglefire.com/my/rv6
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
Hi everyone,
My question is regarding the 1/8" hinge pins for the cowl. They seem very
flexible and soft. When you bend them even slightly, they stay bent. They
obviously are not made out of the same material as the other hinge which are
very stiff and springy. Are they made from a different material? Seems kind
of weak to me. They bend fairly easy while I try to push them into the
hinges and seem to be getting distorted somewhat.
Thanks,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Engine Cowling)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
Does anybody know how many oops rivets you can use in a row without
weakening the structure?
Mark Schrimmer
RV-9A
Irvine, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How much room needed for -6A gear mounts? |
Quickbuilder here. Pardon my ignorance as my gear towers were already in.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
> Just following the builder's manual to correctly locate the main landing
> gear weldments
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Hinge Pins |
In a message dated 5/29/01 8:30:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ENewton57(at)aol.com writes:
> Hi everyone,
> My question is regarding the 1/8" hinge pins for the cowl. They seem very
> flexible and soft. When you bend them even slightly, they stay bent. They
> obviously are not made out of the same material as the other hinge which
> are
> very stiff and springy. Are they made from a different material? Seems
> kind
> of weak to me. They bend fairly easy while I try to push them into the
> hinges and seem to be getting distorted somewhat.
>
> Thanks,
> Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
> RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Engine Cowling)
> http://www.ericsrv6a.com
Those are aluminum... Replace the pin material with the "extra" steel pin
provided in the kit.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: c/s prop techniques |
have u guys ever flown radial engines...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Keeping the Tax Bite Down on your RV |
Anyone know how this works in California? When I had my Champ they assessed
my taxes based on the average value of Champs in Trade-A-Plane. We got the
taxes lowered after we convinced them it wasn't worth what they thought it
was.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Bean [mailto:jim-bean(at)att.net]
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 5:28 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Keeping the Tax Bite Down on
your RV
In my state at least the only thing the sales tax people
know is that
you -registered- an AC, the Feds tell them. So if you paid
on the kit
that should settle it. I certainly wouldn't volunteer
anything.
Jim Bean
RV-8 controls
KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I've been fighting a running battle with my State's tax
authorities regarding
> sales tax on my airplane.
>
> Long story short: They sent me a form to fill out for the
airplane I bought.
> The form indicated that once I filled it out, I could do
the math, and send
> them a check. Being no dummy, I pointed out that I didn't
buy an airplane, I
> built it. So, where could I return the blank form? This
was not the
> anticipated answer, and after some hemming and hawing,
they told me that I
> need to pay tax on whatever I purchased, i.e. the kit.
They didn't bring up
> the subject of engine and avionics, so neither did I
(although I built all of
> these items from scratch... mined the bauxite and iron
myself in my
> backyard).
>
> In the end, I'll probably pay tax on the subkits I bought
from Van's (fuse
> and finish). Everything else was either purchased in
state, or used, or over
> the Internet (no taxes on Internet purchases...). Which
brings up the key
> point: If your state has sales tax, order everything
possible (including
> Van's subkits) over the internet. Keep good records and
you can minimize
> your eventual sales tax liability.
>
> Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
> RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
>
> www.anglefire.com/my/rv6
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ooops rivets |
In a message dated Tue, 29 May 2001 8:30:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Mark Schrimmer
writes:
Does anybody know how many oops rivets you can use in a row without
weakening the structure?>>
3.46516, but only if it is a straight row of rivets. If it is an arc or romboid,
only 3.214 of them can be oopses (that is plural of oops, right?). I have
this on good authority.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kenneth beene <kbeene(at)citilink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How much room needed for -6A gear mounts? |
Jim Bower wrote:
> I am a ways from having to do this task, but I was wondering how my fellow
> listers accomplished installing their RV-6A main gear mounts in a cramped
Jim,
This can be done without fitting the wings. I made false spars and did the
alignment in my basement. The wings and gear fit perfectly during the final
installation in the hanger. The false spars need to be the exact same
dimensions as real ones, but need to stick out only about 2 feet on each side
to allow dropping the line from the legs. They must be drilled perfectly. I
marked the hole centers with the proper size hole guide and drilled them on a
drill press. I can put some pictures on my web page if you are interested.
Ken
N94KB.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Off-On-(On) Switch |
Look on the drawings of Van's wiring diagrams, and they will show Van's part
number for the switch. It's a great solution for the fuel pump/primer
solenoid scenario.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Keeping the Tax Bite Down on your RV |
In a message dated Tue, 29 May 2001 8:57:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Van Artsdalen,
Scott" writes:
Anyone know how this works in California? When I had my Champ they assessed
my taxes based on the average value of Champs in Trade-A-Plane. We got the
taxes lowered after we convinced them it wasn't worth what they thought it
was.>>
We're talking about sales/use tax here. Personal Property tax is a different issue.
When I told the state tax person that I built the plane, they actually
volunteered that I could pay tax based on the airframe kit price only and that
they could be persuaded that the engine and instruments were accessories. I
paid 8.25% of $12500K. $1000 for the airframe sure beats $4500 for the total.
But don't tell them I told you this! Now when the county catches up with you
for collecting personal property tax (read graft), most base the a/c value on
prevailing asking prices listed in Trade-a-Plane. You have to talk them down
from there.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: c/s prop techniques |
Randy,
I have an RV-4 with the exact set-up as you. Never having flown behind a
C/S prop before, this has been a real learning experience. The only advice
given to me prior to flying my -4 was: "Push the pitch before the power."
Since then I have used common sense and a gentle feel to discover the best
operation( I have not always succeeded). The Results are just about exactly
what you have expressed. I didn't know about the 2000-2300 RPM restriction,
but I have always felt an uncomfortable slapping vibration in this range
anyway. Coincidently, several people have told me that 20" and 2300 RPM is
a nice combo for a slow cruise set-up. They just never said why.
Your slowdown technique works well for me, too. I did have to develop a
technique to cut down the over speeding prop when the time comes to push in
the prop lever. What I do is to first pull the prop lever back to slow the
RPM's to about 1500 or so, and then push the prop forward. This eliminates
those few seconds of low MP and 2700 RPM that usually occur if you just
push the prop forward.
Lastly, be careful of the slow flight situation of 15-16 "/1900 RPM. The
ship feels silky smooth in this condition, but she is close to the bottom
of the power curve. If you pull up quickly, she will loose A/S very
quickly. If you attempt to give power, you will have to push the prop first
and maybe wait a few seconds before giving full power.This is an unnatural
set of movements when your brain is telling you to pull up fast and give
full power fast. I don't know the solution to this, but perhaps, guys like
Doug Rozendaal and Eustace Bowhay will step in here and give us some
important do's and don'ts. Fixed pitch props are certainly easier to
handle, but the immense take-off and climb power of the C/S is unbeatable.
So is the ability to slow down a little faster.
Louis I. Willig
larywil(at)home.com
RV-4, N180PF, 115 hrs. and climbing fast
I0-360, Hartzell C/S
(610) 668-4964
Penn Valley, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Hinge Pins |
In a message dated 5/29/01 7:41:05 PM Central Daylight Time,
KBoatri144(at)aol.com writes:
<< Those are aluminum... Replace the pin material with the "extra" steel pin
provided in the kit.
>>
Kyle,
I read your post and thought myself, "He's on drugs (and probably doesn't
share them), there is no extra steel pin". Then I went out to my shop and
what to my wondering eyes appear on my parts shelf but two lengths of steel
1/8" steel pin (6' and 3' long). My apologies and thanks to you sir.
Thought I was going loco there for a minute. Must be the fiberglass dust ;>)
Thanks,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Engine Cowling)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Keeping the Tax Bite Down on your RV |
In a message dated 5/29/2001 7:38:11 PM Central Daylight Time,
jim-bean(at)att.net writes:
> Everything else was either purchased in state, or used, or over
> > the Internet (no taxes on Internet purchases...
thats not true if your state has a sales tax, you suppose to pay that on
your tax forms
like anyone does lmao
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Johnson" <scottjohnson345(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Powersport 20B tests, dry sumps |
I am interested.
I am building an RV8A.
I would be interested in a firewall forward package with the 3 rotor Mazda.
Scott Johnson 847-985-3772
P.S. I would want the package within one year and have cash.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ray Richardson Jr." <ray(at)powersportaviation.com>
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 6:22 PM
Subject: RV-List: Powersport 20B tests, dry sumps
>
> Dear engine enthusiast;
>
> Many people have been asking Powersport if our reduction
> drive is suitable for the 20B ( 3 rotor Mazda)
>
> We had wanted to delay the cost of the engineering study and
> the Torsional testing required to properly answer that question,
> while we bring our 2 rotor, 215 hp product to market.
>
> Of course the responce has included, Why did you design your
> reduction drive to handle over 300 horsepower for 2000 hours
> when your engine is a 215 hp. 2 rotor engine. Well we were
> just thinking a little ahead of our selves.
>
> We have went ahead with testing a customer supplied, turbo charged
> 376 hp engine who wanted our reduction drive and had agreeded to
> help pay for the engineering and testing.
>
> The testing is done the reports are written and yes, the 20 B does
> require a torsional dampener to protect a 3rd order responce
> at the top rpm, on the accesory drive side, (waterpump, alt).
> All lower and mid rpm range is perfectly smooth.
>
> The next step to allow the 20B engines to be used safely in aircraft
> is to design the dampener into the auxiliary drive pulley, tuned to
> the natural frequency occuring at that speed range.
>
> We would like to know how many of you would be interested
> in the 3 rotor engines. With our systems we would be at 325 hp
> without the complications of turbo charging.
>
> Also Powersport has just completed dry sumps for 2 rotor and 3 rotor
> engines. This replaces the front (rear for aircraft) cover.
>
> Our system has 2 scavage gear pumps and 1 pressure pump.
> All inline gear pumps are heilical gear driven from the E shaft.
> This will allow the engine to run inverted or at any attitude continuous.
>
> We have just updated our web site to include the 3 rotor testing,
> dry sump systems and showing engine production.
>
> Ray Richardson Jr.
> www.powersportaviation.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | another dumb question |
I have a RV8A...the fuse is almost finished, with the engine hung,
wired, plumbed, ect...the wings are still off...is it safe to run the
engine with the wings off, or will sturcture damage result?....thanks..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: c/s prop techniques |
>
>have u guys ever flown radial engines...
>
I used to fly Grumman S-2 Trackers. We ran 2800 rpm and 53 " hg MP
for take-off. We could have run 56" if we could have found 115/145
avgas. Max continous power was something like 2500 rpm and 48
inches, IIRC. We generally cruised at about 1800 rpm and 30 inches.
How about you? Which radials have you flown, and what power setting
limitations did it have?
Every engine model has its own limitations, and best operating
procedures, so info on radials isn't really useful for us. "Don't
operate oversquare" might be a good rule of thumb for some engines.
Lycoming doesn't think it applies to our engines. See:
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/publications/old_wives_tales.html.
The power charts in the back of Lycoming Opertor's manual show max
allowable MP as a function of rpm for some engine models. That line
is substantially "over square" at some rpms.
There is a long list of Lycoming Flyer articles on their web site at:
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/publications/index.html
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (mounting wings)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight of N747BS |
In a message dated 5/28/01 10:12:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ENewton57(at)aol.com writes:
> Let us know how it works out with the fuel
> injection.
A bit of dirt found in the injector nozzle and the miss is gone. I moved the
fuel distributor so am therefore guilty of introducing the dirt.
Wow, what a difference. No real data yet, but 25" and 2500 produced 195mph
or so indicated with no wheel pants or leg fairings. Temps and pressures
good.
What a kick on takeoff run with the Hartzell/200hp combo. I'm very glad to
have had training with Mike Seager.
Brian Eckstein
6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: another dumb question |
Don't think you'll do any structural damage. Why not wait till the wings
are hung, though. Then you won't have to rig a fuel tank and feed. How you
gonna tie it down?
George
N888GK
>From: old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV-8-List (E-mail)"
>Subject: RV8-List: another dumb question
>Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 18:43:51 -0700
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: old ogre
>
>I have a RV8A...the fuse is almost finished, with the engine hung,
>wired, plumbed, ect...the wings are still off...is it safe to run the
>engine with the wings off, or will sturcture damage result?....thanks..
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ray sheffield" <1052a(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Hinge Pins |
You may want to use stainless steel, I think spruce sells them.
ray rv6a
----- Original Message -----
From: <ENewton57(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 8:22 PM
Subject: RV-List: Cowl Hinge Pins
>
> Hi everyone,
> My question is regarding the 1/8" hinge pins for the cowl. They seem very
> flexible and soft. When you bend them even slightly, they stay bent.
They
> obviously are not made out of the same material as the other hinge which
are
> very stiff and springy. Are they made from a different material? Seems
kind
> of weak to me. They bend fairly easy while I try to push them into the
> hinges and seem to be getting distorted somewhat.
>
> Thanks,
> Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
> RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Engine Cowling)
> http://www.ericsrv6a.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Keeping the Tax Bite Down on your RV |
I started this thread, and after a few questioning (off-list) responses,
checked a few more facts.
The fact is that (unlike what I wrote a couple of hours ago), internet
purchases are subject to sales/use tax. What I was remembering is that there
IS a 1998 law on the books prohibiting new taxes on e-commerce. So, if your
state didn't have a sales/use tax before 1998, and has imposed one since,
internet purchases would be exempt. Otherwise, pay up...
Apologies for spreading what turned out to be an urban legend.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
Dear list,
If anyone has a new 0-360 carb for sale good , I'm looking for one please
write or call me at 940-648-0841...George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: another dumb question |
Didn't somebody a couple of years back wreck an rv by running the engine
without wings. If I remember well the fuse rolled when the engine did a
major hickup....could be wrong though...but ever since reading this
somewhere I have wondered about that....
Gert
Sally and George wrote:
>
>
> Don't think you'll do any structural damage. Why not wait till the wings
> are hung, though. Then you won't have to rig a fuel tank and feed. How you
> gonna tie it down?
>
> George
> N888GK
>
> >From: old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: "RV-8-List (E-mail)"
> >Subject: RV8-List: another dumb question
> >Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 18:43:51 -0700
> >
> >--> RV8-List message posted by: old ogre
> >
> >I have a RV8A...the fuse is almost finished, with the engine hung,
> >wired, plumbed, ect...the wings are still off...is it safe to run the
> >engine with the wings off, or will sturcture damage result?....thanks..
> >
> >
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald R. Eaves" <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | another dumb question |
When I was much younger and inexperienced I ran a PA25-235 up with the wings
off.
When I did a Take Off Power check - stick in my gut the tail came up and I
did the fastest power chop on record.
The wings add weight and as they say in NASCAR down force behind the CG:
So have fun - But as they said in the Right Stuff - Don't Screw The Pooch...
Don Eaves
RV6 Flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of old ogre
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 8:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: another dumb question
I have a RV8A...the fuse is almost finished, with the engine hung,
wired, plumbed, ect...the wings are still off...is it safe to run the
engine with the wings off, or will sturcture damage result?....thanks..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: tailwheel springs |
I'd hate to take the responsibility of recommending it, but
I flew my -4 for around 200 hrs without chains or springs
(free castoring). I got tired of picking up the tail
whenever I needed to move the plane backward. It's really a
personal preferance thing, but It had a much more natural &
honest feel on the ground. I put them on for the buyer when
I sold the plane. Drove me crazy trying to taxi. The only
thing I ever worried about was losing a brake.
Charlie
Bob Japundza wrote:
>
>
> Removing the springs would make taxiing a little more exciting!
>
> My tailwheel springs are a bit loose, only because they've loosened up
> since I started flying. I don't think the tightness/looseness of the
> springs makes any difference during takeoffs and landings. Usually I
> have the tail off the ground 1-2 seconds after applying power, and wheel
> land so the rudder effectiveness makes more of a difference than the
> tailwheel steering does.
>
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 144 hours
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 7:04 AM
> To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: tailwheel springs
>
>
> Jim;
>
> Some people have actually removed their springs in
> lieu of direct cables. Less drag, simplicity and
> aesthetics. Not recommended for folks who fly off
> rough strips though.
>
> Rob Ray
> N557RR
snips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
"Bourgeouis, Gene" ,
"Crook, Tracy" ,
Dave Berryhill , David Hood ,
Dee Gilliland ,
"ENewton57(at)AOL.COM" ,
Kendall Stall , "Kerr, Bernie" ,
"mustangaero(at)yahoogroups.com" ,
"Walley, Pete" , RV list
| Subject: | EAA Flyin Saturday June 2 |
The Lower Slobovians at Slobovia Outernational Airport
(MS71) just north of Jackson MS are hosting an EAA flyin
this Saturday. The fun starts at 10:00 AM, & burgers are at
noon.
Ya'll come!
Charlie
RV-4 (sold)
BD-4 (bought)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I am embarassed to ask this question half way through my fuselage kit, but
here goes.
Am I the only one that has been putting a washer under the nut only, and not
under the head of the bolt? Until recently I felt sure that typical
situation called for one bolt, one washer, and one nut. I don't remember
how a came to this conclusion. May be in the videos...
On page 103 of my AC standard handbook, it reads "Be sure that washers are
used under the heads of bolts and nuts unless their omission is specified.
A washer guards against mechanical damage to the material being bolted and
prevents corrosion of the structural members."
Larry Bowen
RV-8 canoe
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: tailwheel springs |
I believe Dick Martin has the same no-spring set up on his RV-8
Larry Bowen
RV-8 canoe
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie and
> Tupper England
> Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 7:54 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: tailwheel springs
>
>
>
>
> I'd hate to take the responsibility of recommending it, but
> I flew my -4 for around 200 hrs without chains or springs
> (free castoring). I got tired of picking up the tail
[snip]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 5/29/01 10:06:37 PM Central Daylight Time,
Larry(at)bowenaero.com writes:
<< Am I the only one that has been putting a washer under the nut only, and
not
under the head of the bolt? Until recently I felt sure that typical
situation called for one bolt, one washer, and one nut. I don't remember
how a came to this conclusion. >>
I have followed the plans exactly throughout my project and it almost always
calls for a washer under the nut only and not the bolt head. I thought it
was to allow the nut to be turned and acheive proper torque without hanging
up on the surface of the material being bolted together.
Maybe some engineering gurus can comment. As for me, I'm faithfully
following Van's drawings and hardware callouts.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Engine Cowling)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: another dumb question |
>
> I have a RV8A...the fuse is almost finished, with the engine hung,
> wired, plumbed, ect...the wings are still off...is it safe to run the
> engine with the wings off, or will sturcture damage result?....thanks..
>
When I was at your stage I ran my engine with the wings off (I had seen
George O. do this in a video). Immediately after I made a post about doing
this I received many messages on and off the list about it. People said
elevators and/or horizontal stabilizers had been damaged this way. I don't
remember any specific names given of who it had happened to. My airplane
was not damaged.
Truth or old wives tale? Don't know.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: c/s prop techniques |
Unless I'm missing something 16"and 1900 rpm is about the same power setting as
11" and 2400 rpm so why would you be developing any more heat with this power
setting than you would at 11@2400?
Dave
Randy Lervold wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> Just wanted to compare notes with those of you flying with constant speed
> props on a couple of things: descent technique, and low/slow flight. First
> though let me mention that I have an O-360 A1A with a Hartzell HC-C2YK-1BF.
> According to the TCDS sheets this combo carries the "No continuous operation
> between 2000 and 2250 rpm" restriction, which I have duly placarded above my
> tach.
>
> DESCENT: Of course the ability to just point the nose down when it's time
> to descend and now worry about overspeeding the engine is one of the
> benefits of a c/s prop. In clear air this is easy, just leave the power and
> prop alone, dial in some down trim, set up a 1,000 fpm descent and enjoy the
> extra speed. When it's bumpy however and you don't want to go that fast (in
> order to keep your head off the canopy), I've come up with another
> technique. I reduce manifold pressure to around 16", dial the prop back to
> 1900 rpm, and trim for the same 1,000-1,500 fpm descent. This results in a
> slower (airspeed) and very quiet descent. My thinking is that keeping some
> manifold pressure on to keep the cylinders warm will help prevent shock
> cooling. By slowing the prop way down you can keep more manifold pressure on
> for the same horsepower to generate heat and keep cylinder pressures up. Of
> course the quiet is an added benefit. I do not go oversquare, ie. I always
> keep the manifold pressure in InHg below the rpm in thousands, which is why
> 1900 rpm with 16" inches seems to work quite well. Anyone tried this? Does
> this technique make sense?
>
> SLOW/LOW: Although RVs are all about speed and efficiency there are times
> it is fun to just loaf along and look at the scenery. I've found that I can
> use the same settings as above, 15-16" MAP and 1900 rpm, which results in
> about 135 mph IAS, to just fly low & slow and enjoy the view. The plane
> seems quite happy and harmonious in this mode... it's very quiet, and is
> just sipping fuel. Anyone know of any problem with this, or tried it
> themselves?
>
> Now don't get me wrong, I'm making sure to run the thing hard during the
> early hours for proper break-in. I'm at 28 hours now and changed the mineral
> oil at 23.1 hours to ashless dispersant type (Aeroshell 80W). I've run it
> hard and fast the majority of the time but have been playing with these
> reduced power settings recently as I'm returning to the pattern.
>
> What say ye?
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, N558RL, 28.2 hrs
> www.rv-8.com
> Home Wing VAF
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: another dumb question |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Keeping the Tax Bite Down on your RV |
Keep in mind, we are probably talking about "USE TAXES" not Sales Taxes when
you purchase items outside of your home state. Colorado has an exemption
from this tax when purchasing "aircraft parts" according to past messages in
the archives. Ask your state authorities what the statute of limitation
is for your state. It may be only 3 years, so anything purchased more than
3 years ago is then probably not taxable. Also, items you purchase at
"garage sales" are exempted as I understand, so if you purchase something
from a private individual, it may be exempt. This advise is worth just what
you paid for it.
Marty in Brentwood TN.
----- Original Message -----
From: <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 5:17 PM
Subject: RV-List: Keeping the Tax Bite Down on your RV
>
> I've been fighting a running battle with my State's tax authorities
regarding
> sales tax on my airplane.
>
> Long story short: They sent me a form to fill out for the airplane I
bought.
> The form indicated that once I filled it out, I could do the math, and
send
> them a check. Being no dummy, I pointed out that I didn't buy an
airplane, I
> built it. So, where could I return the blank form? This was not the
> anticipated answer, and after some hemming and hawing, they told me that I
> need to pay tax on whatever I purchased, i.e. the kit. They didn't bring
up
> the subject of engine and avionics, so neither did I (although I built all
of
> these items from scratch... mined the bauxite and iron myself in my
> backyard).
>
> In the end, I'll probably pay tax on the subkits I bought from Van's (fuse
> and finish). Everything else was either purchased in state, or used, or
over
> the Internet (no taxes on Internet purchases...). Which brings up the key
> point: If your state has sales tax, order everything possible (including
> Van's subkits) over the internet. Keep good records and you can minimize
> your eventual sales tax liability.
>
> Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
> RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
>
> www.anglefire.com/my/rv6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: another dumb question |
listers
when Don Hughes was running his engine without the wings, we tied it to a
tree, but it was a good thing i was standing at the rear of the plane, for
when he ran it up, the tail came up and it took me for a short ride, all 270
pounds of me was lifted off the ground. other than that, i don't see any
problem running without wings, just be sure everything is secure.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: another dumb question |
I ran the engine in my 6 with the wings off - but be careful - do not run
it with the empenage installed - it does a LOT of shaking (read twisting)
and you can damage the tail. Oh, and don't forget to tie it down and chock
it!
Dave
old ogre wrote:
>
> I have a RV8A...the fuse is almost finished, with the engine hung,
> wired, plumbed, ect...the wings are still off...is it safe to run the
> engine with the wings off, or will sturcture damage result?....thanks..
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: c/s prop techniques |
> Unless I'm missing something 16"and 1900 rpm is about the same power
setting as
> 11" and 2400 rpm so why would you be developing any more heat with this
power
> setting than you would at 11@2400?
>
> Dave
Take the same amount of work (horsepower over time) and break it up into
fewer pieces. Therefore each piece will need to be bigger to get the same
work done and will therefore generate more heat. I do not know this from
test data, only from theoretical speculation.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, N558RL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 5/29/01 8:06:26 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Larry(at)bowenaero.com writes:
<< On page 103 of my AC standard handbook, it reads "Be sure that washers are
used under the heads of bolts and nuts unless their omission is specified.
A washer guards against mechanical damage to the material being bolted and
prevents corrosion of the structural members." >>
Unless a washer is needed to expand the diameter (meaning it is bigger in
diameter than the bolt head) to spread the load when fastening thru softer
materials, adding a washer under the head in most cases is unnecessary.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com> |
"Joel" , "BD4 Newsletter" ,
"Bourgeouis, Gene" ,
"Crook, Tracy" ,
"Dave Berryhill" ,
"David Hood" ,
"Dee Gilliland" ,
"ENewton57(at)AOL.COM" ,
"Kendall Stall" , ,
"Walley, Pete" , "RV list"
| Subject: | Re: EAA Flyin Saturday June 2 |
Hi Charlie and Tupper,
I am going to try for Waco TX for the Cougar Landing RV flyin on Sat. I may
give you a call tonight to see if it's possible for me to stay at your place
Thursday night if weather patterns still look the same this evening. Is your
phone still 601-879-9596?
Bernie Kerr
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie and Tupper England" <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
"Bourgeouis, Gene" ; "Crook, Tracy"
; "Dave Berryhill" ;
"David Hood" ; "Dee Gilliland"
; "ENewton57(at)AOL.COM" ; "Kendall
Stall" ; "Kerr, Bernie" ;
; "Walley, Pete" ; "RV
list"
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 9:58 PM
Subject: EAA Flyin Saturday June 2
> The Lower Slobovians at Slobovia Outernational Airport
> (MS71) just north of Jackson MS are hosting an EAA flyin
> this Saturday. The fun starts at 10:00 AM, & burgers are at
> noon.
>
> Ya'll come!
>
> Charlie
>
> RV-4 (sold)
> BD-4 (bought)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
"Rocket List"
Smoke Test
Everybody knows that when you hook up electrical components for the first
time, there is a danger that something will go wrong and burn up the unit,
i.e., the smoke test. Strange popping sounds, funny smells and, of course,
smoke are signs that the smoke test has gone bad for you.
As I know nothing about the electrical world (I know nothing about building
a plane either), I decided I needed help with wiring the rocket. My wife's
best friend's husband is an electrical engineer, Bud. One day in a moment
of weakness, Bud said that he would help with the wiring. I REALLY thought
it would be a couple of weekend project. Anyway, six months later, all the
wiring has been done and it is now time to test the system before connecting
the battery. Bud had a power supply with built-in protection so it was
thought that it would be better to use than the battery. It turns out the
12 volt supply was generating over 15 volts (it can't be adjusted) so Bud
decided to use the battery after all.
As a safety factor, he was using the "volt meter" inside the circuit and it
also measured the load of each unit. Anyway, as he was isolating another
unit to test, I hear "Oh Sh_t" and turn to see him jumping around try to
disconnect the meter and see smoke rising from the cockpit area. The whole
idea was to have a qualified person doing the wiring so that there would be
NO smoke or bad smells. The wires for the EGT and CHT sensors have a braded
metal outsides and he knocked them against a hot connection and sparks flew.
Hopefully, the only thing that got zapped was a very small gauge wire with
two clips which Bud was using to connect things together.
After more testing, only the intercom doesn't work. Of course, it wasn't
working before the test either, so it may not be a victim of this event. As
Bud was leaving, he was heard to say, "I am really feeling DUMB."
Back the hangar today to see if I can find a reason the intercom is not
working. Be careful put there. I think Bud is going to stay home.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
Doing all those last 90 percent things.
HR-II N561FS (561 Fighter Squadron) reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Wings, final installation, difficult bolt |
Looking at Bill Vondane's gear pictures reminded me of the difficulty I had
last Saturday installing one of the left wing bolts during final assembly.
On the 8A, all of you guys should get down there and look where the large
NAS bolt on the left wing, that is the LOWER INBOARD large bolt, comes out
forward of the spar. It took us about two hours to get that nut installed
using a variety of homemade tools. There is just no room to get a wrench in
there, especially after the fuel lines and wires are run near that area.
Ideally, one would fashing some sort of "platenut" or something to hold the
nut stationary over the hole so that the bolt can be screwed in from the
rear. Don't even think of getting a torque wrench down there!
Jerry Carter
Memphis, TN
My RV-8A website:
http://rv8asite.homestead.com/mainpage.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Hinge Pins |
So does your friendly local welding supply. (stainless
welding rod)
ray sheffield wrote:
>
>
> You may want to use stainless steel, I think spruce sells them.
>
> ray rv6a
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <ENewton57(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 8:22 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Cowl Hinge Pins
>
> >
> > Hi everyone,
> > My question is regarding the 1/8" hinge pins for the cowl. They seem very
> > flexible and soft. When you bend them even slightly, they stay bent.
> They
> > obviously are not made out of the same material as the other hinge which
> are
> > very stiff and springy. Are they made from a different material? Seems
> kind
> > of weak to me. They bend fairly easy while I try to push them into the
> > hinges and seem to be getting distorted somewhat.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
> > RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Engine Cowling)
> > http://www.ericsrv6a.com
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: another dumb question |
In a message dated 5/29/01 8:50:24 PM Central Daylight Time,
jollyd(at)teleport.com writes:
<< I have a RV8A...the fuse is almost finished, with the engine hung,
wired, plumbed, ect...the wings are still off...is it safe to run the
engine with the wings off, or will sturcture damage result?....thanks. >>
Hi Jolly,
I have 6A (may be a different animal) and started mine with the wings off.
No damage, no problem. I limited the RPM to 1700 or less, chocked the wheels
and held the brakes.
One problem I did encounter is that when I installed the nose wheel I hadn't
yet installed the stops so it was able to caster around full circle. When we
pushed the plane out and backed it up, the nose wheel fully reversed and
ended up leaving the wheel directly under the prop. When I ran it up to 1700
rpm, the nose dipped down enough for the prop to slice a nice little groove
right across the tire. Needless to say, I bought a new tire.
You can check out my first engine start by going to my website and clicking
on "Engine" then scroll down. You can see the reversed nose wheel in the
pictures. This may qualify for the lame brain award of the year.
Good luck,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Engine Cowling)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Keeping the Tax Bite Down on your RV |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
05/30/2001 08:54:38 AM
We talked to the Florida tax man on this. He started the conversation with
what are you building? An RV-6 we reply. "Hey, did you see that red and
white RV-6 at SNF last week, what a beauty he replies." Gulp, says us. The
point is he was very aware that an RV-6 goes for more than 40K.
He pretty much told us that the state just want you to pay something into
the pot. They were not trying to reconcile your tax payment to the real
value of the aircraft when finished. This whole episode was started by of
course, the registration of the N number. The notice came with a letter
saying that you are in violation of the law, that you are subject to taxes
and penalties for non-compliance. When asked about that he said that they
put that in the letter to get people to call, although he did charge a $75
penalty.
Lesson learned, at some point maybe near the finishing kit, register that
number. Take the tax hit and pay on what you have got. They do not know
that I have a used engine. My wing kit was purchased uses for $1,500 (yeah
thats the ticket). My defense will be that I will not pay taxes on
something I have not yet purchased. So I will step up and take a hit on
about $8,000 worth of kit. After which I have punched their ticket and I
feel pretty sure they will leave me alone. I feel quite fortunate that the
tax man is triggered by the N-number, not by the issuing of the
airworthyness certificate. That would really be bad, lets all keep this our
little seceret.
Eric Henson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <DonH(at)axonn.com> |
| Subject: | Keeping the Tax Bite Down on your RV |
I'm in the process of paying up to Louisiana. This state basically has the
highest sales taxes in the country, but low property and income taxes, so
they are very agressive in collecting sales taxes. When I moved here, they
collected the difference between the sales tax I had paid on my car in
Illinois and what they would have collected here.
Incidentally, a cursory check of the schools, roads, and public buildings
would give you the false impression that this is overall a low-tax state.
I couldn't figure out what to do with the form they sent me when my
registration number hit them, so I called them (with great trepidation). I
learned:
The tax is a "use tax" expressly so that it won't count under internet
"sales tax" exemptions.
As long as you send them some kind of bill of sale and some money, they
don't check up on you.
They have actually heard of kit planes before, and they want their money.
I'm supposed to keep sending them receipts and checks along with my annual
income tax forms.
This is the state only. Technically, I should also be paying sales tax
money to the parish (county in other states), but they advised me that it
would be more trouble than it was worth to try to figure out how to do so.
This person actually advised me to ignore this local tax since she knew that
none of the parishes actually had anybody to check up on it. She advised me
not to wake any sleeping dogs.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com [mailto:KBoatri144(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 5:17 PM
> To: Rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Keeping the Tax Bite Down on your RV
>
>
>
> I've been fighting a running battle with my State's tax
> authorities regarding
> sales tax on my airplane.
>
> Long story short: They sent me a form to fill out for the
> airplane I bought.
> The form indicated that once I filled it out, I could do the
> math, and send
> them a check. Being no dummy, I pointed out that I didn't
> buy an airplane, I
> built it. So, where could I return the blank form? This was not the
> anticipated answer, and after some hemming and hawing, they
> told me that I
> need to pay tax on whatever I purchased, i.e. the kit. They
> didn't bring up
> the subject of engine and avionics, so neither did I
> (although I built all of
> these items from scratch... mined the bauxite and iron myself in my
> backyard).
>
> In the end, I'll probably pay tax on the subkits I bought
> from Van's (fuse
> and finish). Everything else was either purchased in state,
> or used, or over
> the Internet (no taxes on Internet purchases...). Which
> brings up the key
> point: If your state has sales tax, order everything possible
> (including
> Van's subkits) over the internet. Keep good records and you
> can minimize
> your eventual sales tax liability.
>
> Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
> RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
>
> www.anglefire.com/my/rv6
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Found a website... |
"Rv8list@Egroups" , Rv-List
Hi all...
I just found this website and I though I would pass it along...
http://www.tiewraps.com/index.html
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Wiring & Plumbing
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Securing the prop extension |
I spoke with Sam Tillman of Saber Mfg. yesterday. I was asking him how I
can secure the bolts that hold the extension to the crankshaft as there is
no way to use safety wire to safety these bolts. He said that most builders
use Loc-Tite on the threads of the bolts and then torque them down to 37
ft-lbs. Does this sound like an acceptable practice? I also have the
option of sending the extension back and having him machine in grooves so I
can run safety wire between the bolts. I'd appreciate some opinions, lore,
wive's-tales, or even good old fashioned wisdom on this one.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Securing the prop extension |
Scott, my gut instincts trust safety wire alot more than loc tite. Maybe you
should run a test by loc titing a nut on a similar size bolt then seeing how
much torque is necessary to remove it. I went with the cylindrical extension
and thru-bolts saftied at the head. Havent flown yet but looks like a
foolproof setup.
Kevin -9A
> I also have the
> option of sending the extension back and having him machine in grooves so I
> can run safety wire between the bolts. I'd appreciate some opinions, lore,
> wive's-tales, or even good old fashioned wisdom on this one.
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
If you look at the backside of an AN bolt head (or nut, for that matter), it
should look like it has a round washer formed into it. This smooth round
bottom allows you to use the bolt without a washer underneath the head, at
least when bolting metal. Since you pick long enough bolts to avoid having
the threaded part of the shank inside the bolted joint, you'll need to use a
washer to allow the nut to tighten without bottoming on the threads.
Normally you tighten the nut, so the washer goes underneath the nut to
prevent galling as the bolt is tightened. If you ever have a situation
where you have to torque the bolt while holding the nut stationary (normally
avoided like the plague), you place the washer under the head of the bolt
instead of the nut, since that's where the galling would occur. Or use two
light washers, one on each end...
Matthew
8A canoe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
I follow everything you say, but the statements in my aircraft standards book
still bother me. They were referring to AN hardware when they said use washers
on both ends.
Thanks for your input.
-Larry
RV-8 canoe
--- Matthew Gelber wrote:
>
> If you look at the backside of an AN bolt head (or nut, for that matter), it
> should look like it has a round washer formed into it. This smooth round
> bottom allows you to use the bolt without a washer underneath the head, at
> least when bolting metal. Since you pick long enough bolts to avoid having
> the threaded part of the shank inside the bolted joint, you'll need to use a
> washer to allow the nut to tighten without bottoming on the threads.
> Normally you tighten the nut, so the washer goes underneath the nut to
> prevent galling as the bolt is tightened. If you ever have a situation
> where you have to torque the bolt while holding the nut stationary (normally
> avoided like the plague), you place the washer under the head of the bolt
> instead of the nut, since that's where the galling would occur. Or use two
> light washers, one on each end...
> Matthew
> 8A canoe
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | c/s prop techniques |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
snipped++++++++++
My thinking is that keeping some manifold pressure on to keep the
cylinders warm will help prevent
> shock cooling.
###################
I think the RPM AND MP will control you cooling rate.
I reduce rpm about 200 for 20-30 seconds each till I get to the reduced
setting I want.
Don Jordan N6DJ 6A Arlington, Tx
*****************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Matthew wrote:
> Normally you tighten the nut, so the washer goes underneath the nut to
> prevent galling as the bolt is tightened. If you ever have a situation
> where you have to torque the bolt while holding the nut stationary
(normally
> avoided like the plague), you place the washer under the head of the bolt
> instead of the nut, since that's where the galling would occur.
Often the only way to get nut & bolt tight is to turn the bolt, or maybe
both, so put a washer under its head. Always a washer under the nut. When
a bolt is used as a cap screw (screwed into a threaded part with no nut) a
washer goes under the head.
Bolts and nuts with soft materials like wood or plastic may want oversize
washers to spread the load (AN917?). Seems to me that AN960 standard
washers do that to a small extent and aluminum is soft compared to 4130.
Too many washers add weight.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: c/s prop techniques |
When I got training for flying a complex aircraft I found the constant speed
prop a very difficult thing to understand. I must have tried half a dozen
instructors and none fully understood the thing.
Some thought the constant speed name meant that the prop would turn a
constant speed while the engine varied. Some that the prop speed varied
forcing the engine to stay constant etc. Some just said fly by the manual
as thinking about it gets the pilot all discombobulated. Further confusion
comes from flat pitch, high setting, climb pitch and other terms tossed
around.
Eventually I learned to fly the airplane in gaits, like a horse. Climb,
cruise climb, low cruise, high cruise. One mp/rpm setting for each.
Is there a competent flight instructor in the house?
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Odyssey Battery... |
"Rv8list@Egroups" , Rv-List
Hi all...
I just bought an Odyssey PC625 Drycell battery from http://abatterystore.com
for $73.95 (free shipping)... They also sell the PC680 for $98.54 (free
shipping)... Just call them at 1-888-228-8379 and tell them what you
want...
You can find specs on this battery here:
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/motorcycle.htm
and
http://www.batteriesplus.com/Product/slacidrechg.html
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Wiring & Plumbing
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Securing the prop extension |
Loctite comes in many different types and grades. There are mild and strong
thread sealing compounds, low & hi temp, thread locking, etc.
http://www.loctite.com/catalog/category1.html?ProductLine=10
I'd consider using one of the Loctite thread locking compound, but, 1. if
you do a good job locking the threads, you might twist the bolt off trying
to get it out, and 2. you might be better off buying/making some of the
tabbed bolt locking devices. Making them out of stainless shim stock might
work well.
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Odyssey Battery... |
"Rv8list@Egroups" , Rv-List
I just got a call back from Battery Specialist, Inc telling me that they are
going to put a full charge on it and ship it to me tomorrow... He also told
me that they put their own label on it that will say Guardian, but it is in
fact an Odyssey Drycell battery made by Hawker Energy Products...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill VonDane [mailto:bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2001 11:33 AM
Subject: EAA Chapter 72: Odyssey Battery...
Hi all...
I just bought an Odyssey PC625 Drycell battery from http://abatterystore.com
for $73.95 (free shipping)... They also sell the PC680 for $98.54 (free
shipping)... Just call them at 1-888-228-8379 and tell them what you
want...
You can find specs on this battery here:
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/motorcycle.htm
and
http://www.batteriesplus.com/Product/slacidrechg.html
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Wiring & Plumbing
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "W. Granville Batte" <wgranville.batte(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Flashing lights to full brightness |
Bill, Greg,
For getting full brightness out of flashing incandescent lights, you may
want to consider biasing them with a "low level" "on". This could be
achieved by inserting a light dimmer circuit (similar to a recent article in
Kit Plane) in the manner of a logical "OR" where the level is turned up just
enough to get the filament to barely glow, but not enough put out any
significant light. Thereby, the filament doesn't have to "ramp-up" as far,
and the response time to full brightness is much quicker.
Just a thought, hope it helps.
Granville
From: Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Wiring REV 4
>
>Bill,
>On your wig wag schematic, you show GE 50 watt low voltage track lighting
>bulbs. Are these what your landing/light taxi lights are? I have the
>Duckworth lights and was planning on swapping the 50 watt bulbs for some
100
>watters. Would this overload the wig wag system?
>
>Greg
Greg,
Very important question. To be seen well in daylight, the
wigwaging lights should be at least 100 watts each side and they must come
up to full bright. If the WIgWag rate is to fast, they will not get to
full bright.
Bob
Bob Haan
http://easystreet.com/~bhaan/
bhaan(at)easystreet.com
Portland, OR
RV6A 24461 Wiring the panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Benson, Bradley" <bbenson(at)trane.com> |
| Subject: | c/s prop techniques |
I would have asked the CFI to show me how the prop could turn at a different
speed than the crankshaft it was attached to :-).
Cheers,
Brad
-----Original Message-----
From: kempthornes [mailto:kempthornes(at)home.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2001 11:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: c/s prop techniques
- snip -
May 24, 2001 - May 30, 2001
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ku