RV-Archive.digest.vol-ky
June 14, 2001 - June 21, 2001
>engine compartment of these cars were always 40-60 degrees hotter than the
>preceding 240Zs. Just enough heat, and located near enough to the fuel
>lines that they got vapor lock. Not always, and typically not enough to shut
>down the entire car... just enough to make everybody worried and pissed.
>
>Back to airplanes: Its easier for me to say its not the pumps now that I
>know that your pumps are fine... , but my money has always been on the
>tubing, its bends, and internal flow characteristics (its always the problem
>with humans when we don't work right). An important point here, is that we
>cannot assume that in your application the liquid is always a liquid...
>(although we can assume this in the human body). In this situation you may
>have the following problem: gas traveling too close to a heat source, in an
>area which has a pipe diameter and length which is too big for its intended
>purpose. A size 6 pipe is probably not needed in your application since
>down stream it is a size 4... remember that you are fueling an O-320, and
>the same size 6 hose is used by AFP for their applications on O-360s,
>IO-540s, and even their applications for the big V8s and others!
>
>I think there is not enough flow through the size 6 hose near some bends
>which in turn are near some heat source. This adds up to a breakdown of
>laminar flow in the tube and subsequent bubbles vapors, etc. This is my
>theory on why you can't get it to do it on the ground... obviously not the
>right conditions.
>
> I'm going to go out on a limb here and suggest that you examine the routing
>of your tubes and their proximity to a heat source (s). If your current
>fixes do not fix the problem, I would suggest you make your FWF hoses a size
>4, at least make the one from the mechanical pump to the flow meter a size
>4... and keep them shielded from heat. Then buy me a big cold beer some
>time after this fixes the problem.
>
>jim
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
>RVer273sb(at)aol.com
>Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2001 7:55 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: fluctuating fuel pressure
>
>
>Listers,
> In case you were following this thread on fuel press problems on an
>injected
>0-320
>in my RV4.
> I have yet to determine a cause for this problem.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Friction |
In a message dated 6/13/01 5:56:35 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
johnw(at)hellerwiegenstein.com writes:
> The rudder bars aren't "difficult" to move, and it doesnlt
> feel like there is anything binding up; they're just not as butter
> smooth and friction free as the other control system components that
> I've built to date. I've drilled the tops of the bearing blocks for
> lubrication (Tri-Flow or similar), but this seems to make little
> difference.
>
> What say you listers regarding acceptable amounts of drag in the rudder
> bar system, and any suggested fixes if needed? TIA
>
> John and Laurie Wiegenstein
> Hansville, WA
>
John, I think they are a little tight too. I`ve re machined several
sets of these bearings for the local guys.
Fred LaForge RV-4 180 CS EAA tech counselor So. Cal.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: alternator for RV-4 |
In a message dated 6/14/01 4:20:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jollyd(at)teleport.com writes:
>
> can I ask a dumb question while we arte on the subject of alt's....mine
> also in a
> nippond...internal regulatoe..there are three wires coming out of the plug
> in the
> back of the alt...two are white, the other is black...which goes to
> which?...thanks
>
>
No dumb questions here.....you only use one of the three wires on the plug,
the one closest to the armature is the field wire and then there is the lug
terminal that connects to the battery....2 wires total
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)ticnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel stops |
Yep, sure would be nice to have the nose wheel fully castering and I
looked at the possibility. It would work great if you could be CERTAIN
that the prop is not rotating anytime the wheel pant is rotated
forward! My prop would destroy the wheel pant if the plane happened to
roll backward at any time the engine is runnning. Tooo big a risk to
take for even a lot of convenience.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
-6A flying past 360 hours
> Is anyone out there flying their RV-A around with the nosewheel stops
> removed? (ie. fully castering). It sure would be easier to back up into a
> crowded hanger that way. Any feedback would be appreciated.
>
> J. Ayres
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Wiegenstein" <johnw(at)hellerwiegenstein.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Friction |
Thanks to the listers who commented on reducing drag/friction in the
rudder pedal installation. The advice was right on. After cutting the
end blocks in half to make a removable "cap" section (probably an
excellent idea for possible future repairs/maintenance, based on recent
posts here), trimming just a touch off the end of the foreward (right)
rudder bar, and then reinstalling with washers between the block halves
to make up for the material lost to the cutting operation, the pedals
are now smooth and low drag. I used some of the AN 970-3 "fender"
style washers between the blocks to spread the load and give a wide
contact surface on the delrin, as compared to the AN 960s; the washers
took a bit of grinding to clear the rudder bar tubes and the forward
side skin. All in all, a quick and easy fix, and better maintainability
once its flying.
John and Laurie Wiegenstein
Hansville, WA
RV-6 S/N 23961 - finish kit ordered; rudder pedals swingin' smooth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Builder-wannabe Wants to Visit |
Rich,
If you are close to Dayton, stop by Moraine Airpark (between Dayton and
Cincinnati). There are a few RV's there.
James
.... sometimes visitor to Dayton
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rich
Corbett-MacJ
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2001 12:30 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Builder-wannabe Wants to Visit
Dwight and all,
Nice to hear the welcome wagon is out there. I'm in a similar boat Dwight,
but have not been looking as long as you. (my patience isn't that long)
Actually I'm sitting the fence on deciding on fabric or metal ... building
experience is zero either way. I'm experiencing the skill, $$$ and time
factor decision; although most production kits have come a long way. I've
been poking my nose in on a few folks but none have 'clicked' yet. I
personally think that a choice of plane will be based on finding someone who
has forged ahead of me in my new location as I'm a transplant to the
Cincinnati-Dayton, OH area. I do enjoy this list.
Rich
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump fitting question |
Hi Scott,
While looking for the same info last week I discovered the following:
The KB-090-T fitting is in the Van's accessories 2000 catalog in the middle
of page 7. the one on the right hand side is the one. Look close and you
will see that it is not exactly a tee but is drilled to accept a 1/4" pipe
thread fitting (AN or otherwise) thereby converting it to a tee type
fitting.
If you have a hydraulics repair and custom hose shop near enough to you will
find they have the exact same fittings in stock. It turns out that these are
standard hydraulic fittings.
If it happens that you would do better to have a 45 degree fitting at the
pump and need the tee fitting for fuel pressure and or primer supply you can
do as I did yesterday and drill and thread one for yourself.
I spent some unnecessary dollars before finding this out. I hope this
information might save some dollars for others.
Bye for now,
Jim in Kelowna
> I am looking at the fuel/oil hose diagram that Van's puts in the manuals
> now. One part is listed as KB-090-T. Where can I find this fitting?
Can't
> seem to find it in Wicks or Aircraft Sruce.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken" <n69kg(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ****Newly replaced Firewall is Buckling**** |
I once help a friend of mine who had an RV 4, back about 8+ years ago
replace some brackets on the bottom of motor mount, they were thicker and
longer to spread the load better, this was a mod from Van's, his fire wall
was buckled also, but not after the replacement.
Ken Gray
RV6, 0320, wood prop 575 hours flying
Bryan, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 11, 2001 4:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: ****Newly replaced Firewall is Buckling****
>
> are you sure the failure is a firewall problem? could it have been built
> incorrectly. in other words, some structural bolts to longeron missing?
> just get some other rv 4 builder to look at it very closely.
> scott
> tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rpflanze(at)iquest.net |
| Subject: | Condition Inspection checklist |
Fellow Listers,
I've compiled a comprehensive annual Condition Checklist that I would be happy
to share with anyone that might be interested. About six folks from the List
sent me their checklists and I spend the last week compiling one that combined,
what I thought anyway, was the best that each contributor provided. I would
like to single them out for thanks, but my email is at home and I don't remember
each person. I did respond to each individually with my thanks and appreciation.
The document is in Word 97 format. It contains a list of consummables used
to conduct the inspection, a place to log the install date/hours of periodic
replacement items like ELT batteries, etc, and a notes area in each section
to log what was found/replaced etc. I am using the checklist now to conduct
my inspection and I am about halfway through it.
If you'd like a copy just send me an email off list and I'd be more than happy
to share it with you.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (150 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
My -4 is fuel injected and I've done all those maneuvers on my right tank (no
flop tube) without any trouble, but I've also flown upside down with the
right side selected and the engine started coughing in about 2-3 seconds.
That's why I recommend building both tanks inverted now, you'll wish you had
later.
Go inverted!
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Builder-wannabe Wants to Visit |
| From: | Rich Corbett-MacJ <richcorbett(at)mac.com> |
Thanks James,
Just talked to one of the guys there last weekend about how full the
Airpark is getting with no room to expand. I'm planning on dropping in on
the next event anyway. Perhaps I'll kill some time nosing around as my wife
start her new job in Centerville next week anyway.
Thanks,
Rich
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Builder-wannabe Wants to Visit
>
> Rich,
>
> If you are close to Dayton, stop by Moraine Airpark (between Dayton and
> Cincinnati). There are a few RV's there.
>
> James
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Deits" <pdeits(at)home.com> |
What does building both or even one tank inverted mean (for the uninformed)?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rvmils(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 7:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: aerobatics
My -4 is fuel injected and I've done all those maneuvers on my right tank
(no
flop tube) without any trouble, but I've also flown upside down with the
right side selected and the engine started coughing in about 2-3 seconds.
That's why I recommend building both tanks inverted now, you'll wish you had
later.
Go inverted!
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd W. Rudberg" <todd_rudberg(at)yahoo.com> |
Inverted is just more fun...
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rvmils(at)aol.com>
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 3:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: aerobatics
>
> My -4 is fuel injected and I've done all those maneuvers on my right tank
(no
> flop tube) without any trouble, but I've also flown upside down with the
> right side selected and the engine started coughing in about 2-3 seconds.
> That's why I recommend building both tanks inverted now, you'll wish you
had
> later.
> Go inverted!
> Carey Mills
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | firewall oil canning |
*******snip********So the landing gear getting unloaded causes the
flexing... Could you maybe
jack up the aircraft so that it is fully off the ground and then slowly
lower it (with cowling off) to see if you can see where the relative
movement is? Or am I just covering old ground here?*******snip********
I could "oil can" my RV-4 firewall just by bouncing a wing up and down, or
bouncing the engine up and down with my shoulder. I couldn't really see
anything move, it just "oil canned"........
buuuuDump.....buuuuDump.......BuuuDump <<<<<------sound effects
I even went so far as to pound out the foreward corner of the firewall (near
your toes) in an attempt to stretch the metal a bit. It fixed the oil
canning for about 2 landings and it was back just the same as it was before.
A stiffener would probably have helped greatly but it was more trouble than
it's worth.
Mine only did it on the right side.
Vince Frazier
Harmon Rocket II ... the fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html <---- note: new
URL as of 5/30/01
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
> What does building both or even one tank inverted mean (for the
uninformed)?
Following is an answer from the unknowledgeable to the uninformed:
From a technical standpoint an aerobat wants to fly the airplane both right
side up and upside down - for more than a few seconds. My non-aerobatic
project has two main constraints. First, I have rigid pickup tubes which
are positioned at the bottom-most part of each tank. This minimizes the
amount of unusable fuel in each tank. Flying upside down means that the
pickup tube is pointing up in the air pocket while the fuel is fulled down
by gravity - actually resting at the top of the wing - which of course is
closer to the Earth. Look in Van's catalogue at the pickup tubes. There is
a picture of the above pickup tube (for non-aerobatic flight) - and a
picture of a "flop tube" which is flexible enough to flop in the direction
of gravity (same as the fuel for aerobatic operation). Second, the same
situation exists for carburating the fuel. My plane has a bowl and float -
only works well when right side up - same as a car. The archives provide
lots of opinions on solving this limitation for upside flying. There are
trade-offs to both systems (cost, complexity, etc.). You can still do some
aerobatics in a non-aerobatic plane - a couple of seconds or where the
motion pushes you and the fuel down in the seat (snap roll, etc.).
Ernest Kells RV-9A - Fuselage, O-235 Planning Wood Prop
Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rvmils(at)aol.com
> Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 7:14 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: aerobatics
>
>
> My -4 is fuel injected and I've done all those maneuvers on my right tank
> (no
> flop tube) without any trouble, but I've also flown upside down with the
> right side selected and the engine started coughing in about 2-3 seconds.
> That's why I recommend building both tanks inverted now, you'll wish you
had
> later.
> Go inverted!
> Carey Mills
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | fuel pump diapragm |
Unless you have some reason to suspect a defect I would not recommend
taking
the mechanical fuel pump apart. There is a diaphram inside that is
obviously wet around the center but dry around the outside where the cases
screw together. When you take the case apart the diaphram sticks to both
halfs, like a gasket, and could rip. Check the overboard dump fitting hole.
If there is no apparent fuel there, and no other apparent damage, it is
probably best to leave it alone.
One of the overhaulers told me that the fuel diapragm was pre-stretched
during installation and to disassemble it would be a poor idea. I can't
confirm this one though. Anybody know for sure?
I can say that the diapragm is pretty darned tough stuff and if you're man
enough to rip it then it was pretty badly deteriorated.
Mike has good advice though. Also, the darned things are relatively
cheap.... just replace it.
Vince in Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
Hello Paul,
For the uninformed:
When Cary says " building both tanks inverted " he means; while building the
tanks one should install aerobatic flop tubes in each tank, as apposed to
putting one flop tube in one tank and putting in the fixed fuel pick up as
described per plans in the remaining tank.
A flop tube is a weighted flexible fuel pick up that will tend to follow the
forces that will move the fuel around (from top to bottom) inside the tank
during aerobatic maneuvers.
Byefernow
Jim in Kelowna - Making holes in firewall
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Deits <pdeits(at)home.com>
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 8:06 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: aerobatics
>
> What does building both or even one tank inverted mean (for the
uninformed)?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rvmils(at)aol.com
> Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 7:14 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: aerobatics
>
>
> My -4 is fuel injected and I've done all those maneuvers on my right tank
> (no
> flop tube) without any trouble, but I've also flown upside down with the
> right side selected and the engine started coughing in about 2-3 seconds.
> That's why I recommend building both tanks inverted now, you'll wish you
had
> later.
> Go inverted!
> Carey Mills
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump fitting question |
Oops!
The email below that I sent earlier should have said the KB-090-T fitting
was drilled and tapped with 1/8" pipe threads not 1/4" pipe threads.
----- Original Message -----
From: jim jewell <jjewell(at)okanagan.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2001 11:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel pump fitting question
> Hi Scott,
>
> While looking for the same info last week I discovered the following:
>
> The KB-090-T fitting is in the Van's accessories 2000 catalog in the
middle
> of page 7. the one on the right hand side is the one. Look close and you
> will see that it is not exactly a tee but is drilled to accept a 1/4" pipe
> thread fitting (AN or otherwise) thereby converting it to a tee type
> fitting.
>
> If you have a hydraulics repair and custom hose shop near enough to you
will
> find they have the exact same fittings in stock. It turns out that these
are
> standard hydraulic fittings.
> If it happens that you would do better to have a 45 degree fitting at the
> pump and need the tee fitting for fuel pressure and or primer supply you
can
> do as I did yesterday and drill and thread one for yourself.
>
> I spent some unnecessary dollars before finding this out. I hope this
> information might save some dollars for others.
>
> Bye for now,
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
>
>
>
> > I am looking at the fuel/oil hose diagram that Van's puts in the manuals
> > now. One part is listed as KB-090-T. Where can I find this fitting?
> Can't
> > seem to find it in Wicks or Aircraft Sruce.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 6/15/01 10:53:34 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
kevinschlosser(at)msn.com writes:
> Has anyone ever developed dents in the tank skin from the flop tubes?
>
>
I thought of that same thing when I was building my tanks so to remity this I
replaced the o-ring at the end of the flop tube with a real fat viton o-ring,
then I prosealed it on to the flop tube....no problem now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: who knows this tail # its not listed |
B. Reg. No.: 322KE M/M: EXP Desc: EXP-1999 RV-6A
Activity: Pleasure Phase: Take-off GA-A/C: General Aviation
Descr: EXPERIMENTAL ACFT NOSED INTO THE GROUND AND BURNED JUST AFTER
TAKE-OFF, THE 2 POB SUFFERED FATAL INJURIES, THE ACFT WAS DESTROYED
BY FIRE, OTHER CIRCUMSTANCES ARE UNKNOWN, HAMMETT, ID.
WX: KMUO 141555Z 32012KT 30SM FEW150 SCT220 23/055 A3026
Damage: Destroyed
C2. Injury Data: # Crew: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
# Pass: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
# Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
D. Location. City: HAMMETT State: ID Country: US
E. Event Date: 06/14/2000 Time: 1500
F. Invest Coverage. IIC: ROUNTREE Reg/DO: NM11 DO City: BOISE
DO State: ID Others: NTSB (MCCREARY)
Dest: PRIVATE STRIP Last Radio Cont: NONE Flt Plan: NONE
Last Clearance: NONE WX Briefing: N
Other:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
06/15/2001 02:53:37 PM
Any advice from anyone that has retrofitted flop tubes into completed tanks
would be apreciated. Especially concerning the angles you put in that keep
the flop tube from binding up on the structure inside.
Thanks
Eric Henson
MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com@matronics.com on 06/15/2001 02:02:47 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: aerobatics
In a message dated 6/15/01 10:53:34 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
kevinschlosser(at)msn.com writes:
> Has anyone ever developed dents in the tank skin from the flop tubes?
>
>
I thought of that same thing when I was building my tanks so to remity this
I
replaced the o-ring at the end of the flop tube with a real fat viton
o-ring,
then I prosealed it on to the flop tube....no problem now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com |
Besides the flop tubes there are some minor differences in tank construction
to trap fuel in the inner section of the tank due to the dihedral when
inverted. My feeling is its best to build at least one tank for aerobatics
since it takes little extra time or money and is difficult to retrofit. The
only downside is maybe a quart or 2 less usable fuel. I normally use it for
positive G aerobatics unless balence dictates otherwise incase things get a
little wacky.
Dave Beizer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Schilling" <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | who knows this tail # its not listed |
It says that it was assigned to a RV-6A and that it was cancelled do to the
aircraft being destroyed on 10-18-2000.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 1:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: who knows this tail # its not listed
B. Reg. No.: 322KE M/M: EXP Desc: EXP-1999 RV-6A
Activity: Pleasure Phase: Take-off GA-A/C: General Aviation
Descr: EXPERIMENTAL ACFT NOSED INTO THE GROUND AND BURNED JUST AFTER
TAKE-OFF, THE 2 POB SUFFERED FATAL INJURIES, THE ACFT WAS DESTROYED
BY FIRE, OTHER CIRCUMSTANCES ARE UNKNOWN, HAMMETT, ID.
WX: KMUO 141555Z 32012KT 30SM FEW150 SCT220 23/055 A3026
Damage: Destroyed
C2. Injury Data: # Crew: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
# Pass: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
# Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
D. Location. City: HAMMETT State: ID Country: US
E. Event Date: 06/14/2000 Time: 1500
F. Invest Coverage. IIC: ROUNTREE Reg/DO: NM11 DO City: BOISE
DO State: ID Others: NTSB (MCCREARY)
Dest: PRIVATE STRIP Last Radio Cont: NONE Flt Plan: NONE
Last Clearance: NONE WX Briefing: N
Other:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | who knows this tail # its not listed |
http://162.58.35.241/acdatabase/NNumSQL.asp?NNumbertxt=322KE
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 12:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: who knows this tail # its not listed
B. Reg. No.: 322KE M/M: EXP Desc: EXP-1999 RV-6A
Activity: Pleasure Phase: Take-off GA-A/C: General Aviation
Descr: EXPERIMENTAL ACFT NOSED INTO THE GROUND AND BURNED JUST AFTER
TAKE-OFF, THE 2 POB SUFFERED FATAL INJURIES, THE ACFT WAS DESTROYED
BY FIRE, OTHER CIRCUMSTANCES ARE UNKNOWN, HAMMETT, ID.
WX: KMUO 141555Z 32012KT 30SM FEW150 SCT220 23/055 A3026
Damage: Destroyed
C2. Injury Data: # Crew: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
# Pass: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
# Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
D. Location. City: HAMMETT State: ID Country: US
E. Event Date: 06/14/2000 Time: 1500
F. Invest Coverage. IIC: ROUNTREE Reg/DO: NM11 DO City: BOISE
DO State: ID Others: NTSB (MCCREARY)
Dest: PRIVATE STRIP Last Radio Cont: NONE Flt Plan: NONE
Last Clearance: NONE WX Briefing: N
Other:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
| Subject: | who knows this tail # its not listed |
This happened in June 2000 not 2001
Ed Cole
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill VonDane [SMTP:bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com]
> Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 1:01 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: who knows this tail # its not listed
>
>
> http://162.58.35.241/acdatabase/NNumSQL.asp?NNumbertxt=322KE
>
> -Bill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
> Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 12:39 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: who knows this tail # its not listed
>
>
>
> B. Reg. No.: 322KE M/M: EXP Desc: EXP-1999 RV-6A
> Activity: Pleasure Phase: Take-off GA-A/C: General Aviation
> Descr: EXPERIMENTAL ACFT NOSED INTO THE GROUND AND BURNED JUST AFTER
> TAKE-OFF, THE 2 POB SUFFERED FATAL INJURIES, THE ACFT WAS DESTROYED
>
> BY FIRE, OTHER CIRCUMSTANCES ARE UNKNOWN, HAMMETT, ID.
>
> WX: KMUO 141555Z 32012KT 30SM FEW150 SCT220 23/055 A3026
> Damage: Destroyed
> C2. Injury Data: # Crew: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
> # Pass: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
> # Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
> D. Location. City: HAMMETT State: ID Country: US
> E. Event Date: 06/14/2000 Time: 1500
> F. Invest Coverage. IIC: ROUNTREE Reg/DO: NM11 DO City: BOISE
> DO State: ID Others: NTSB (MCCREARY)
> Dest: PRIVATE STRIP Last Radio Cont: NONE Flt Plan: NONE
> Last Clearance: NONE WX Briefing: N
> Other:
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Greener" <rgreener(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | who knows this tail # its not listed |
I beleive that this RV-6A was owned by Judd Lund of Boise ID. He was flying
off his private stip when the accident occured. It was he and his son who
were killed.
A great guy.
Regards - Rob Greener (RV-3B N 418RL (Reserved) - Almost finished !)
Do Not Achive.
Subject: Re: RV-List: who knows this tail # its not listed
B. Reg. No.: 322KE M/M: EXP Desc: EXP-1999 RV-6A
Activity: Pleasure Phase: Take-off GA-A/C: General Aviation
Descr: EXPERIMENTAL ACFT NOSED INTO THE GROUND AND BURNED JUST AFTER
TAKE-OFF, THE 2 POB SUFFERED FATAL INJURIES, THE ACFT WAS DESTROYED
BY FIRE, OTHER CIRCUMSTANCES ARE UNKNOWN, HAMMETT, ID.
WX: KMUO 141555Z 32012KT 30SM FEW150 SCT220 23/055 A3026
Damage: Destroyed
C2. Injury Data: # Crew: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
# Pass: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
# Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
D. Location. City: HAMMETT State: ID Country: US
E. Event Date: 06/14/2000 Time: 1500
F. Invest Coverage. IIC: ROUNTREE Reg/DO: NM11 DO City: BOISE
DO State: ID Others: NTSB (MCCREARY)
Dest: PRIVATE STRIP Last Radio Cont: NONE Flt Plan: NONE
Last Clearance: NONE WX Briefing: N
Other:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> |
| Subject: | who knows this tail # its not listed |
The date of the event was a year ago!
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill VonDane [mailto:bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com]
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 1:01 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: who knows this tail # its not listed
http://162.58.35.241/acdatabase/NNumSQL.asp?NNumbertxt=322KE
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 12:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: who knows this tail # its not listed
B. Reg. No.: 322KE M/M: EXP Desc: EXP-1999 RV-6A
Activity: Pleasure Phase: Take-off GA-A/C: General Aviation
Descr: EXPERIMENTAL ACFT NOSED INTO THE GROUND AND BURNED JUST AFTER
TAKE-OFF, THE 2 POB SUFFERED FATAL INJURIES, THE ACFT WAS DESTROYED
BY FIRE, OTHER CIRCUMSTANCES ARE UNKNOWN, HAMMETT, ID.
WX: KMUO 141555Z 32012KT 30SM FEW150 SCT220 23/055 A3026
Damage: Destroyed
C2. Injury Data: # Crew: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
# Pass: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
# Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
D. Location. City: HAMMETT State: ID Country: US
E. Event Date: 06/14/2000 Time: 1500
F. Invest Coverage. IIC: ROUNTREE Reg/DO: NM11 DO City: BOISE
DO State: ID Others: NTSB (MCCREARY)
Dest: PRIVATE STRIP Last Radio Cont: NONE Flt Plan: NONE
Last Clearance: NONE WX Briefing: N
Other:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
Just my opinion here, and that's worth what you paid for it, but if you're
not going to put an inverted oil system in, why would you put in flop tubes?
Ok, so the engine doesn't cough when inverted..instead it eats itself as it
starves for oil. I've flown inverted a bunch in a decathlon I rent (not
alot compared to some of you guys..I know) and I've found, in general,
inverted is a blast as long as I'm somewhat close to a positive G. Negative
G's don't thrill me all that much (I know...I was as shocked to find that
out as the next guy). I would much rather do a slightly positive inverted
maneuver than roll it over and stay there. My tanks are both fixed, because
I didn't want to take the weight penalty of the inverted oil system...and
without oil, who cares whether or not it's getting fuel. Lycosaurs are
expensive.
Bill
>
> My -4 is fuel injected and I've done all those maneuvers on my right tank
(no
> flop tube) without any trouble, but I've also flown upside down with the
> right side selected and the engine started coughing in about 2-3 seconds.
> That's why I recommend building both tanks inverted now, you'll wish you
had
> later.
> Go inverted!
> Carey Mills
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: just updated my panel pictures |
Listers,
many of you asked to see my instument panel / center console set up. although
not completed, here are some recent pictures to show the idea. the hole in
the console is for the throttle quad, ( anyone know where to get decent knobs
) the hole in the center under the radios, if for a garmin 295 ( in the mail
) the hole on the top left, is for a clock/temp gauge, ( still working on it.)
look for the album marked scott's panel
http://members5.clubphoto.com/scott351659/
scott
tampa
need to paint
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince" <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
Gentlemen,
I was looking and thinking again today (always a dangerous thing).
Where are the -8 drivers entering the firewall with cabin heat? I am
assuming that you are making a 2" hole for the flanged connection and
then running flexible hose to some point. Where are you making the
hole and how are you distributing the heat? I'm trying not to paint
myself into a corner here.
Vince Welch
RV-8A Fuselage
Roaming Shores, Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | I could have been a Glasair!!! |
This, from an aviation humor web site...
"Did anyone see one of the fiberglass port-a-johns at Oshkosh with the message
"I could have been a Glassair!" written on it?
Semper Fi
John
RV-6 (riveting flaps and ailerons together)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wood grain panel instructions |
Dear listers:
A few of you saw my panel pictures and inquired how I achieved this finish,
well rather than sending it out to everyone individually, I'll post it to the
list and save a lot of time.
It took me 6 trys to get that panel to that finish, so if your going to try
and do it I can save you a lot of time and money, from what I learned from my
first 5 tries. To do it right ( my opinion ) you need to follow these
instructions.
#1 have all your holes cut into your panel.
#2 install all your gauges and switches as if the panel was finished.
a,. that way if you need bolts protruding from the rear to hold brackets
or wire terminals, you can countersink the panel from the front and use a
counter sink screw or bolt. It will end up flush with the front side of the
panel.
#3. once you have everything in place and are satisfied, remove all
instruments and switches.
#4. clean the front side of your panel with Mek.
#5. install all countersunk screws and tighten them down with a nut on the
rear side.
#6. pick out what type of wood grain veneer your going to use, and stain if
preferred.
( mine is a cherry veneer with a red mahogany stain. )
#7. lay the veneer on the panel, and try to place the character grains
(unique patterns of the wood) in the places where there want be any
instruments.
#8. spread contact cement on the panel and on the rear of the veneer.
#9. once tacky, carefully apply veneer to panel and try not to leave any
bubbles.
#10. use an iron and run it all over, smoothing out the wood and cooking the
glue.
#11. once cooled down, you can sand with very fine sandpaper.
#12. apply stain and let stand until you achieve the color you desire.
#13. wipe off any excess stain, and let dry for 24 hours.
#14. use a dremel or roto zip tool to remove all the veneer covering the
holes for the instruments and switches.
#15. lightly sand, and clean very well. ( this is really important for a good
finish) no dust!
NOTE! if you want to install letters or numbers, now is the time to do it.,
if you see my panel pictures, you will see I used contact cement to glue the
gold numbers and letters from a craft store to label my panel. ( RV-6A ,
N747ES on left top, EXECUTIVE SWEET on left side top, CHT , EGT, with the
numbers 1, 2, 3, 4 for both rotary switches on the right side. It came out
nice, and it is flush with the top of the clear coating.
#16. use the decoupage material that comes in the 2 part canisters from home
depot. it is the equivalent of 50 coats of polyurethane
#17. the mix is 2 to 1, mix well and pour on the panel. use a sponge brush
only to spread the clear on evenly. hair brushes shed.
#18. get a propane or map gas torch and lightly go over the entire panel.
this eliminates any bubbles quickly, but don't hold the flame in 1 place to
long, the clear is flammable
#19. you should be pretty impressed with the results right about now.
#20. cover your work with a large box so no dust can settle on it for a
couple of days.
The neat thing about this stuff, is it looks like you used a router to
countersink all the instruments and gauges. The clear is about 1/4 inch thick
and it really looks good when cured. Note. Some may find the finish too
glossy, but I didn't trim my dash overhang so glare will not be a problem.
I tried with spray cans of polyurethane, but had to keep doing over because
it was never consistent.
hope this helps
Scott Reviere
Tampa
RV6A finishing N747ES
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: I could have been a Glasair!!! |
No, but I've seen the beer cans with the label, "I used to be an RV-6". :)
Bruce
Glasair III
John Lawson wrote:
>
> This, from an aviation humor web site...
>
> "Did anyone see one of the fiberglass port-a-johns at Oshkosh with the message
> "I could have been a Glassair!" written on it?
>
> Semper Fi
> John
> RV-6 (riveting flaps and ailerons together)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John & Teresa Huft" <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | wood grain panel instructions |
Scott, what happens to the screws? Will you just put nuts on the back of all
the instruments?...this sounds hard to do.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 5:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: wood grain panel instructions
Dear listers:
A few of you saw my panel pictures and inquired how I achieved this finish,
well rather than sending it out to everyone individually, I'll post it to
the
list and save a lot of time.
It took me 6 trys to get that panel to that finish, so if your going to try
and do it I can save you a lot of time and money, from what I learned from
my
first 5 tries. To do it right ( my opinion ) you need to follow these
instructions.
#1 have all your holes cut into your panel.
#2 install all your gauges and switches as if the panel was finished.
a,. that way if you need bolts protruding from the rear to hold
brackets
or wire terminals, you can countersink the panel from the front and use a
counter sink screw or bolt. It will end up flush with the front side of the
panel.
#3. once you have everything in place and are satisfied, remove all
instruments and switches.
#4. clean the front side of your panel with Mek.
#5. install all countersunk screws and tighten them down with a nut on the
rear side.
#6. pick out what type of wood grain veneer your going to use, and stain if
preferred.
( mine is a cherry veneer with a red mahogany stain. )
#7. lay the veneer on the panel, and try to place the character grains
(unique patterns of the wood) in the places where there want be any
instruments.
#8. spread contact cement on the panel and on the rear of the veneer.
#9. once tacky, carefully apply veneer to panel and try not to leave any
bubbles.
#10. use an iron and run it all over, smoothing out the wood and cooking the
glue.
#11. once cooled down, you can sand with very fine sandpaper.
#12. apply stain and let stand until you achieve the color you desire.
#13. wipe off any excess stain, and let dry for 24 hours.
#14. use a dremel or roto zip tool to remove all the veneer covering the
holes for the instruments and switches.
#15. lightly sand, and clean very well. ( this is really important for a
good
finish) no dust!
NOTE! if you want to install letters or numbers, now is the time to do it.,
if you see my panel pictures, you will see I used contact cement to glue the
gold numbers and letters from a craft store to label my panel. ( RV-6A ,
N747ES on left top, EXECUTIVE SWEET on left side top, CHT , EGT, with the
numbers 1, 2, 3, 4 for both rotary switches on the right side. It came out
nice, and it is flush with the top of the clear coating.
#16. use the decoupage material that comes in the 2 part canisters from home
depot. it is the equivalent of 50 coats of polyurethane
#17. the mix is 2 to 1, mix well and pour on the panel. use a sponge brush
only to spread the clear on evenly. hair brushes shed.
#18. get a propane or map gas torch and lightly go over the entire panel.
this eliminates any bubbles quickly, but don't hold the flame in 1 place to
long, the clear is flammable
#19. you should be pretty impressed with the results right about now.
#20. cover your work with a large box so no dust can settle on it for a
couple of days.
The neat thing about this stuff, is it looks like you used a router to
countersink all the instruments and gauges. The clear is about 1/4 inch
thick
and it really looks good when cured. Note. Some may find the finish too
glossy, but I didn't trim my dash overhang so glare will not be a problem.
I tried with spray cans of polyurethane, but had to keep doing over because
it was never consistent.
hope this helps
Scott Reviere
Tampa
RV6A finishing N747ES
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
Do it!!!!!!
We have had 3 RV-6s with rudder pedals failures in this local area, one in
which the aircraft was destroyed. I am about to check out another of our
members in a newly purchased award-winning -6 and I will not do this until
this aircraft is converted. Yes, it is a royal pain, but so is a totaled
airplane!!
Doug Weiler
pres, MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Condition Inspection checklist |
Randy's Condition Inspection checklist is now on my web site. The
Word 97 version is at:
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks/Annual_inspection_checklist.doc
A crudely formatted HTML version is at:
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks/Annual_inspection_checklist.htm
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
>Fellow Listers,
>
>I've compiled a comprehensive annual Condition Checklist that I would be happy
>to share with anyone that might be interested. About six folks from the List
>sent me their checklists and I spend the last week compiling one
>that combined,
>what I thought anyway, was the best that each contributor provided. I would
>like to single them out for thanks, but my email is at home and I
>don't remember
>each person. I did respond to each individually with my thanks and
>appreciation.
>
>
>The document is in Word 97 format. It contains a list of consummables used
>to conduct the inspection, a place to log the install date/hours of periodic
>replacement items like ELT batteries, etc, and a notes area in each section
>to log what was found/replaced etc. I am using the checklist now to conduct
>my inspection and I am about halfway through it.
>
>If you'd like a copy just send me an email off list and I'd be more than happy
>to share it with you.
>
>Randy Pflanzer N417G
>RV-6 (150 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
I was cleaning out a box from my old rec-room bar and found this old nail
used for railroad ties. It was slightly modified to function as a beer
bottle opener but proved to be perfect to rivet tight quarters -
particularly inboard and outboard trailing edge ribs in control surfaces.
Remember how tight that was? Yep, I no longer have to use my old axe :)
It may not be pretty, but works. You can see a picture here if you like:
http://www.ontariorvators.org/tools.html
I wonder if these nails are available somewhere... They must be cheap (or
free) compared to bucking bars.
FWIW,
Are
RV-8 Wings
www.ontariorvators.org VAF-OW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net> |
Hi Listers,
For those of you who built/are building a 6A or 8A, I have
a question about the brake line as it exits the fuselage.
Since the line has to come below the airfoil at some point near the
gear leg, how did you handle the intersection with the metal wing fairing
which wraps around past that point ?
I realize a glass fairing will cover all of it, but did you cut a
notch for the line to clear the metal wing fairing ? and also , did the
intersection fairing cover part of the wing fairing under there ?
Sound goofy ??
Any input appreciated.
Austin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: wood grain panel instructions |
In a message dated 6/15/01 7:53:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
writes:
<< The neat thing about this stuff, is it looks like you used a router to
countersink all the instruments and gauges. The clear is about 1/4 inch
thick
and it really looks good when cured. >>
Scott, How brittle is the cured coating? Can the panel flex without baking
the clear coating?
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6A Brake line |
| From: | "Denis (Bum) Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 1/6/80 21:08, Austin at 6430(at)axion.net wrote:
>
> Hi Listers,
> For those of you who built/are building a 6A or 8A, I have
> a question about the brake line as it exits the fuselage.
> Since the line has to come below the airfoil at some point near the
> gear leg, how did you handle the intersection with the metal wing fairing
> which wraps around past that point ?
> I realize a glass fairing will cover all of it, but did you cut a
> notch for the line to clear the metal wing fairing ? and also , did the
> intersection fairing cover part of the wing fairing under there ?
> Sound goofy ??
> Any input appreciated.
> Austin
>
>
Austin,
Yes to your observations. I put a notch in the wing root fairing, and it
works fine. I think you could also just saw off the whole fairing, just
short of the line, since the top cuff fairing will surely cover it up
anyway. This would be a better solution to avoid the possibilty of chafing
even better.
On a related matter, I did have my gear leg fairings saw(cut) through this
same brake line at the top of the leg. So be sure you have it fitted very
good and well protected, not matter how you do it. It took several hundred
hours to do it but that da_n puny littly .016 fairing sawed right on through
that soft aluminum tube! It could have been an embarrassing moment, since
the 6A is rather more dependent on brakes than most machines.
Good Luck
Denis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
Listers:
We have had some great ideas posted from various contributors for
operational checklists, weight & balance spread sheets, and most recently
Randy Pflanzer's very complete annual inspection checklist.
Has anyone developed templates or other formats for an aircraft logbook? To
be complete it would combine the features of individual flight entries with
a method of recording malfunctions, clearing actions, and a modification
record. Then, if it were formated to something like 5" X7", it could be
carried in the aircraft. Taking the military log book concept as an
example, a single page would be dedicated to each flight's record with as
much or as little operational information recorded as desired. At the end
of a flight, total time/landings/etc. is forwarded to the next page. If a
significant section of the flight record page were just blank lines it would
provide a great place to record anything memorable about the flight.
Write-ups (malfunctions) would be transferred from the flight record page to
a separate section where they are recorded until the clearing action is
completed and recorded. Only a few pages would actually be carried in the
airplane in a small book, the remainder would be archieved at home base.
Any creative ideas?
Dick Sipp
RV4 N250DS 220 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Bucking bar for tight quarters |
I originally posted this with the wrong Subject. My apologies for the double
posting.
I was cleaning out a box from my old rec-room bar and found this old nail
used for railroad ties. It was slightly modified to function as a beer
bottle opener but proved to be perfect to rivet tight quarters -
particularly inboard and outboard trailing edge ribs in control surfaces.
Remember how tight that was? Yep, I no longer have to use my old axe :)
It may not be pretty, but works. You can see a picture here if you like:
http://www.ontariorvators.org/tools.html
I wonder if these nails are available somewhere... They must be cheap (or
free) compared to bucking bars.
FWIW,
Are
RV-8 Wings
www.ontariorvators.org VAF-OW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Mosher" <tgmosher(at)earthlink.net> |
Just walk any railroad line - dozens will be on the ground.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca>
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 9:36 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Rudder fix
>
> I was cleaning out a box from my old rec-room bar and found this old nail
> used for railroad ties. It was slightly modified to function as a beer
> bottle opener but proved to be perfect to rivet tight quarters -
> particularly inboard and outboard trailing edge ribs in control surfaces.
> Remember how tight that was? Yep, I no longer have to use my old axe :)
>
> It may not be pretty, but works. You can see a picture here if you like:
> http://www.ontariorvators.org/tools.html
>
> I wonder if these nails are available somewhere... They must be cheap (or
> free) compared to bucking bars.
>
> FWIW,
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
> www.ontariorvators.org VAF-OW
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: I could have been a Glasair!!! |
>
> Well, at least a broken RV6 can be recycled into something useful!
> What could you possibly use busted fiberglass for?
Insulating your dog house.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: fluctuating fuel pressure |
Jim,
I would agree with you if were not for the fact.......
I have flown this eng/injection combo for 520 hrs
as it was originally installed by me.
Never a burble like this before. I used all -6 tubbing
and hoses all the way to the throttle body.......
I am used to the typical heat soaking after taxing and shutdown
Typical fuel injection especially in the tightly cowled RV4..
I would gladly buy you a beer if your suggestion cured the problem!
Without installing all sorts of monitoring equipment I can only use
the flight test as a means of determining if I am getting any improvment
from the things I try. Big pucker factor don't you know!
Stewart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
Perhaps I'm paranoid, but I think your best protected with minimum entries in
the aircraft maintenance logbook. The more details you provide, the more
ammunition you give the FAA and insurance companies to hang you out to dry if
anything happens. So, I plan to only use that language and entries that are
required by regulations.
BTW, I'm not advocating not keeping records. Keep a record of everything, just
don't write it in the 'logbook'.
Bruce
Glasair III
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald Vandervort" <ronvandervort(at)earthlink.net> |
The inverted tank has a pickup tube that is fexible and can flop to the top
of the tank for fuel pickup when the aircraft is upside down. Normally the
fuel pickup tube in the tank is rigid.
Hope that helps.
Ron
----------
>From: "Paul Deits" <pdeits(at)home.com>
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: aerobatics
>Date: Fri, Jun 15, 2001, 8:06 AM
>
>
> What does building both or even one tank inverted mean (for the uninformed)?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rvmils(at)aol.com
> Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 7:14 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: aerobatics
>
>
> My -4 is fuel injected and I've done all those maneuvers on my right tank
> (no
> flop tube) without any trouble, but I've also flown upside down with the
> right side selected and the engine started coughing in about 2-3 seconds.
> That's why I recommend building both tanks inverted now, you'll wish you had
> later.
> Go inverted!
> Carey Mills
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com> |
Listers,
I just got my Sam James Cowl yesterday, and I must tell you this is the
nicest piece of fiberglass that I have ever seen. Not a single pin hole or
flaw. The inlets and prop face are perfectly square, etc. It matches the
firewall of my 6 perfectly. I'll let you know how the mounting goes...
looks like it should be typical cowl mounting...
jim
Tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
Hey Bill,
I do have a full inverted oil system and only the left tank setup with a flop
tube. My point was if your going this route, go ahead and set up both tanks
with the flop tube. Just yesterday I was doing some Acro with 7 gal in the
left and 9 in the right, after 20 min the left tank was to the point that the
engine was sputtering on the knife edge (left wing down). It would have been
nice to just switch tanks. On that same note, and I think somone has already
mention this, you can do Acro all day with no inverted systems including the
injector or throttle body, just stay positive. I would say at least 0.3 G's.
Blue Skies,
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sam James Cowl |
Okay... now give us the info on "Sam James"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Spark Plug Gasketst |
| From: | b green <rvinfo(at)juno.com> |
Is there a procedure to reuse plug gaskets? I have been told to heat
them up and then cool them in water and I have also been told to slow
cool them. So far I have just been buying new ones, but I am curios as
to the proper procedure.
Bruce Green
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Bell" <rv4bell(at)door.net> |
| Subject: | Terry Jantzi's RV/Rocket Steering Link |
I just installed the above item on my RV4. Not test flow as of yet but the
materials and construction are first rate. Terry is a pleasant man to do
business with. Everything is included for the installation. This is only for
VANS FULL SWIVEL tail wheel. For information see www.iwantarocket.com.
Bruce Bell
Lubbock, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Just yesterday I was doing some Acro with 7 gal in the
> left and 9 in the right, after 20 min the left tank was to the point that
the
> engine was sputtering on the knife edge (left wing down). It would have
been
> nice to just switch tanks.
Uh, I think in a left knife edge the right tank would have worked quite
nicely....
:
)
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Gasketst |
> Is there a procedure to reuse plug gaskets? I have been told to heat
> them up and then cool them in water and I have also been told to slow
> cool them. So far I have just been buying new ones, but I am curios as
> to the proper procedure.
>
John Schwaner, the author of the Skyranch Engineering Manual says not to
reuse them. He says that annealing them does not bring them back to their
original softness and also usually softens them unevenly, degrading the
quality of the seal into the cylinder which can cause compression loss and
air leaks.
When I read this, I just started buying new ones. They are cheap enough.
andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Gasketst |
Hi Bruce.
The suggestion that said to heat then dunk them in cold water is right.
If after inspection for physical condition you are satisfied that the
Sparkplug Seals / Gaskets are not excessively crushed due to age or over
torquing you can anneal them.
Bend a coat hanger or some welding rod to hang them on.
Heat them to a soft red glow then quickly submerge them into a can of water
or under a tap. they will come out of the water looking like new copper.
With the small propane torch that I have I heat 4 at a time.
If using oxy acetylene or similar high heat source take care not to melt
them.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: b green <rvinfo(at)juno.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2001 12:39 PM
Subject: RV-List: Spark Plug Gasketst
>
> Is there a procedure to reuse plug gaskets? I have been told to heat
> them up and then cool them in water and I have also been told to slow
> cool them. So far I have just been buying new ones, but I am curios as
> to the proper procedure.
>
> Bruce Green
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Gasketst |
Heat till red with a propane torch and cool at ANY rate you wish. Copper is
annealed but not hardened by heat or cooling. I drop in water as this
removed the scale. Don't heat too hot as you can melt the copper.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "b green" <rvinfo(at)juno.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2001 2:39 PM
Subject: RV-List: Spark Plug Gasketst
Is there a procedure to reuse plug gaskets? I have been told to heat
them up and then cool them in water and I have also been told to slow
cool them. So far I have just been buying new ones, but I am curios as
to the proper procedure.
Bruce Green
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
I'm spraying corlar on etched aluminum, and I'm having a bit of difficulty
getting a smooth surface. It is mixed with about 35% reducer, and seems to
go on nicely. After about 30 seconds, it becomes sort of a cross between
orange peel and a light wrinkle surface. I'm putting on a thin coat. The
dew point is 55F, 57%RH. The paint is brand new. The roughness is
generally covered by the color and clear coats, but it is bugging me.
Any ideas?
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Gasketst |
>
> Is there a procedure to reuse plug gaskets? I have been told to heat
> them up and then cool them in water and I have also been told to slow
> cool them. So far I have just been buying new ones, but I am curios as
> to the proper procedure.
>
> Bruce Green
>
C'mon. A lifetime supply bag of these things is CHEAP. Is it really worth
hassling with?
Of course a local federal government licensed mechanic just uses the old
ones. That is really cheap.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Spark Plug Deposit |
Have you ever seen something like this? I just finished my annual
condition inspection.....I have a Lycoming O-320 160HP with dual electronic
ignition.
The top plugs - all fired from one unit - were good...nice color.
The bottom plugs - fired from the second unit - had a crunchy deposit on
the side of the insulator that could easily be removed...I suspect (but do
not know) that it was a lead deposit. Whatever it was didn't seem to affect
operation.
Why just on the bottom plugs I wonder? I use 100LL and do not do prolonged
idle or taxi and lean aggressively during taxi and in flight (aided by an
oxygen sensor in one of the exhaust pipes.)
Ideas?
John Salida, CO RV6A
Ready for OSH !
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
Orange peal comes from drying too fast. You didn't say what the temp
was.
Barry Pote RV9a Wings
After about 30 seconds, it becomes sort of a cross between
> orange peel and a light wrinkle surface. I'm putting on a thin coat. The
> dew point is 55F, 57%RH. The paint is brand new. The roughness is
> generally covered by the color and clear coats, but it is bugging me.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Mounting the engine |
I mounted my engine today, and learned a few things worth sharing.
I bolted the mount to the engine first, then bolted the mount and
engine to the airframe. This worked very well, and I highly
recommend this approach. I did the whole job without any assistance
- it took me about 40 minutes, not including the time to final torque
the bolts.
I used some duct tape to hold the cups that go between the mount and
engine to the mount, as well as the big washers that go between the
lower cups and the engine. The first mount was assembled and
tightened most of the way. It was then fairly easy to use a 3/8
punch and some hand pressure to align the holes in the other forward
cups with the engine and then get the bolt started, then tightened
most of the way. The 3/8 punch is small enough to allow it to slip
in the holes when the cup is almost aligned - you can then move it
sideways to get the holes to line up. A block of wood and hammer was
used to tap the bolts the rest of the way in. (the bolts are 7/16, so
the smaller punch simplifies the alignment.
It took me about 30 minutes working alone to get the mount bolted to
the back of the engine, the first time. Then I realized that all
four bolts are not the same length, and that I had managed to get top
bolts in the bottom holes :( Pay attention to the bolt callouts on
the drawings!!
I was able to get a box wrench on three of the nuts easily, but the
upper left one was a problem. I modified a wrench by grinding a thin
spot on the box end so I could get it to fit between the end of the
bolt and the pushrod tube. I've got an IO-360A - I'm not sure if the
O-360s are the same in this area or not.
It was a pain getting the cotter pin in the lower left bolt, but I
managed to get it done.
It took me about 10 minutes, working alone, to get the engine mount
bolted to the aircraft. I haven't torqued the bolts that hold the
mount to the airframe yet, because I'm betting the mount will have to
come off to allow me drill a few more holes through the firewall.
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (mounting engine)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
----- Original > Orange peal comes from drying too fast. You didn't say
what the temp
> was.
> Barry Pote RV9a Wings
About 75F temp, 55 dew point, real pleasant day. Dupont recommends up to
35% reducer, but the body shop guys here say to put more in. I think I'll
try that next.
Alex Peterson
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Deposit |
> The bottom plugs - fired from the second unit - had a crunchy deposit on
> the side of the insulator that could easily be removed...I suspect (but do
> not know) that it was a lead deposit. Whatever it was didn't seem to
affect
> operation.
The deposit is what color?
>(aided by an oxygen sensor in one of the exhaust pipes.)
How does this setup work? Can you give full details or point me?
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Gasketst |
In a message dated 6/16/01 9:43:29 AM Pacific Daylight Time, rvinfo(at)juno.com
writes:
> Is there a procedure to reuse plug gaskets? I have been told to heat
> them up and then cool them in water and I have also been told to slow
> cool them. So far I have just been buying new ones, but I am curios as
> to the proper procedure.
>
> Bruce Green
>
>
>
Bruce, Heat them up with a torch to a dull red, then drop them
in water. that anneals them, as good as new.
Fred LaForge RV-4 180 CS EAA tech counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Deposit |
>
> > The bottom plugs - fired from the second unit - had a crunchy deposit on
> > the side of the insulator that could easily be removed...I suspect (but do
> > not know) that it was a lead deposit. Whatever it was didn't seem to
>affect
> > operation.
>
>The deposit is what color?
>
> >(aided by an oxygen sensor in one of the exhaust pipes.)
>
>How does this setup work? Can you give full details or point me?
Kempthorne is wasting valuable cyberspace/time. He can look this answer up
in the archives. (However, you can tell the rest of us how you do it, and
save us research time) :-).
Louis
Louis I. Willig
larywil(at)home.com
RV-4, N180PF, 115 hrs. and climbing fast
I0-360, Hartzell C/S
(610) 668-4964
Penn Valley, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVanLaak(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Tailwheels, rudder pedals, and groundloops (long) |
Two weeks ago today I returned from another lovely flight in my RV 6 and
settled in for a routine crosswind landing at my home strip, a narrow private
field near Houston. The landing was straight and safe, but a bit bumpy due
to a crosswind that burbles around the hangars located very close to the
runway. But aside from poor style points, the landing was quite acceptable
and I was content to put it up for the night.
About halfway down the runway, at about 35 mph, there was a bang and the
plane swerved strongly to the right. I immediately nailed full left rudder
and brake trying to stop the swerve. Even with all the leg I have it was not
enough, and I departed the runway into a neighbor's back yard headed for the
hangar where he keeps his RV-6A. I was thinking "so this is what a
groundloop looks like", since in 4400 hours of flying I have never seen one
when I was flying. Fortunately for all, I stopped about 20 feet from the
hangar and without nosing over (a concern with the wet ground around here
sometimes).
My neighbors all magically appeared and looked over the damage. The cause of
the problem was the bolt that holds the tailwheel spring from rotating had
apparently broken, allowing the spring to rotate, effectively giving me a
rudder hardover condition. My neighbors helped me hoist the tail and push
the plane back to my hangar. A few minutes work proved that the source of
the problem was in fact the shearing of that bolt, but when I dug out the
plans (I did not build the plane but got the full set, including builder's
notes to himself) I saw that it was called out as an AN-4 while the fragments
I dug out of the spring were AN-3. The plane had 350 hours of flying on it
with an undersized bolt.
It only took a few hours to disassemble the tail enough to get to the bolt
area and check for damage (none) and ream out the weldment for the larger
bolt. I pulled the tailspring and drilled it in the drill press and put it
all back togther. Amazingly, the only damage was a tiny scratch on the
rudder bottom fiberglass and a slightly ground arm on the tailwheel. I was
one lucky guy.
The next week or so was occupied with Tropical Storm Allison and the flood
waters got within a couple hundred feet of the hangar, but aside from a
little water on the floor because the yard could not keep up with 6 inch per
hour rainfall rates, there was no damage from that either.
This morning I took the plane out to fly and performed a thorough preflight
inspection of the tail area to make sure I put it all back together
correctly. With everything in order, I strapped in and got ready to go. But
somehow I had managed to goof up the rudder cables since the left rudder
pedal was against the firewall. I climbed back out and got a light to
inspect, only to get quite a surprise. The left rudder pedal was broken
almost completely off the torque tube!
I have overhead rudder pedals and have not performed the repair called out in
the service bulletin, but I have inspected the pedals several times using a
mirror and closely examining the back side, looking for buckling. With all
of the conversation on the subject recently I had convinced myself that I
would perform the mod at annual time in September. Now I had no choice.
It only took about 2 hours to remove the seats, left stick, etc., and get the
pedals out. I was then able to clean up the torque tube and weld the pedal
back on, and with the old fashioned acetylene way I learned to weld there is
a nice, large, well tapered filet between the tubes. I also carefully
normallized the weld so it was undoubtedly stronger than when new. But I was
also determined to make sure this could not happen again. So I made small
trapezoidal doublers for both sides of all of the pedals, and another 2 hours
or so got them welded, cleaned, primed, and painted. If the paint is dry
tomorrow I will get them back in, but I suspect it will be much harder than
when I removed them.
The reasons for this long note are twofold:
1. I did not build this plane, but the builder did a fine job overall. The
quality of the sheetmetal work and engine installation are very good, much
better than you should be able to expect from a first time builder. I know
many of you on the list are hard at work improving the level of average
workmanship, but my point is that I have great confidence in the integrity of
the workmanship. And yet there was a hidden flaw in the rudder spring.
Fortunately I was spared a serious accident along the way to finding it.
Annual condition inspections give the opportunity to review the configuration
of the plane to make sure it has not deteriorated due to wear or damage, but
it is also an opportunity to make sure the plans were followed. I am not
sure that I will always be conscientious about using it for that, but we all
ought to think about it.
2. The rudder pedal issue is real. I have been very careful to not push too
hard on the pedals in normal operations, not using them to push out of the
seat on exit, etc. I am absolutely relaxed during ackro, don't do snap
maneuvers, etc., so I thought there was nothing to worry about with the
service letter, and was only going to do the work this fall to put the belt
with the suspenders. But now I am concerned that the design of the pedals
may not be as strong as we all would think it is. The pedal supports pulled
cleanly out of the torque tube at the edge of the heat affected zone, right
where theory says the material is at its weakest. I know that I pushed hard
when trying to stop the swerve, but not so hard that an excited person might
not push as hard in a spin recovery or snap roll.
I took pictures of the damaged pedals to share on-line, but alas they did not
come out well enough to be worth the trouble. I will email Vans and share
this experience with them, as I think it may reflect on the welding technique
in use. Perhaps not, but that is for them to investigate.
Now I can look forward to going flying again, without worrying about the
rudder pedals or feeling guilty about not complying with the service letter.
And those of you on the fence, time to get off.
Jim Van Laak
N1KJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PlaneWizz(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheels, rudder pedals... |
Jim:
Thanks for sharing your story and congratulations on a safe landing.
You mentioned the pictures you took (of the damaged pedal?) did not turn out
very well. I am wondering however, if the pictures of your modifications to
the rudder pedals turned out and if so, could you please post them.
Thanks in advance
Dave Pohl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Deposit |
Hal,
The color of the deposit was grayish...definitely not black like an oil
deposit would be. I am fairly convinced that it is lead, but why only on the
bottom plugs is what's puzzling me.
The oxygen sensor is a pollution control ox sensor from an automobile
system. It is mounted on the aft, nr 4, cylinder's exhaust. When it senses
oxygen it produces a small voltage. That is amplified by a simple transistor
circuit and lights a light on the instrument panel. The presumption works
like this: If there is ox coming out of the cylinder, all the gas was burned
and there is still ox left, and that is being expelled, so the mixture must
be too lean...enrichen it until the sensor no longer sees ox and you have
the precise mixture.
The ox sensor costs about $20 and the 100LL slowly fouls it...after 150
hours or so a new one is simply screwed in.
You can buy such a system from Aircraft Spruce....I find it handy to cross
check RPM increase and the ox sensor indications during run-up and initial
mixture setting (I fly off a 7,500 ft airport so we lean always)...also
during let down, as you need to periodically enrich, the light comes on to
remind you to richen the mixture a bit.Seems to work well, but claims of
fuel savings don't seem to amount to much.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com> |
. After about 30 seconds, it becomes sort of a cross between
> orange peel and a light wrinkle surface.
To much material and too little air pressure.
Put the pressure to about 40/50psi. adjust your gun to just under half for
the material.
Marcel de Ruiter
RV4/G-RVMJ
ACFT Painter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Tank Ring Proseal??? |
Happy Fathers Day Dads!
When attaching the tank ring to the inside of the rib with the
platenuts, should I use proseal during assembly or after?
Thanks,
Jack Textor
RV8, tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Goldberg" <n95mf(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 project for sale |
Listers: Four or five days ago I posted about a RV-8 project for sale due to
the builder passing away. Yesterday, I borrowed a digital camera, visited
his widow's house and took my first digital pictures of his project.
This morning my 16 year old son created a Web site on Tripod where he placed
the pictures for all interested to view. I included the description of what
is included in the project, and what work remains to be done. Look at:
http://rv-8project.tripod.com/index.html
The asking price is $40,000. I can be reached at this e-mail address or
512/261-4122 (home) or 512/626-7886 (cell). I will be out of town from
Wednesday until the following Monday. Mark Frederick of Team Rocket also is
familiar with the project and can be reached at 512/365-8131(Work). I
believe he also will be out of town the later part of the week. You could be
flying in a very few months of work. Mark Goldberg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 project for sale |
Mark,
The pictures will not load. I tried both Netscape and Internet Explorer.
Bruce
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Tank Ring Proseal??? |
I applied Pro-Seal to the edges of the ring after assembly but it would have
been easier if I had used it before. It doesn't leak though so I'm happy
with it. Just screw in the screws into the platenuts while you appply
Pro-Seal. This prevents the Pro-Seal from getting on the threads inside the
platenuts.
I seem to remember that the manual and Orndorff have conflicting ways of
doing this. I think the manual say that the cork gasket (or Pro-Sealed
access cover) will seal the platenut rivets while Orndorff Pro-Seals the
ring before assembly.
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jack Textor
Sent: June 18, 2001 4:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: Tank Ring Proseal???
Happy Fathers Day Dads!
When attaching the tank ring to the inside of the rib with the
platenuts, should I use proseal during assembly or after?
Thanks,
Jack Textor
RV8, tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Spark Plug Deposit |
| From: | Gary Graham <beeb(at)teleport.com> |
John,
How do you get an Oxygen sensor to work in the 100LL environment? How many
hours before cleaning or changing? Can you tell from the display when the
readings loose their validity?
Can anyone on the list comment on the use of O2 sensors with leaded fuel?
Gary, Digest
RV-4FB Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd W. Rudberg" <todd_rudberg(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | aft tooling hole for antenna coax? |
All,
I cannot see a problem with using the aft tooling hole on the ribs for
running coax. I want it back there so it is away from the strobe wiring
in the forward area. The control pushrod for the aileron clears...but I
am not sure how this will affect the flap stuff. Comments?
Also, what diameter is the coax for the antenna (eg what bushing size
should I install)?
Sorry for the rookie factor here.
Todd W. Rudberg
RV-8 Wings (N232TB Reserved)
mailto:todd_rudberg(at)yahoo.com
www.electroimpact.com
Home: (425)290-7526
Work: (425)348-8090
Cell: (425)870-5300
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Ring Proseal??? |
Jack, you shouldn't have to proseal the inside reinforcement ring at all.
The outside coverplate and gasket should provide all the sealing necessary.
That's how I did mine recently and no leaks during testing.
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM (res) Building Flaps
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
> When attaching the tank ring to the inside of the rib with the
> platenuts, should I use proseal during assembly or after?
> Thanks,
> Jack Textor
> RV8, tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Goldberg" <n95mf(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 project for sale |
Guys, I am sorry. One of the listers told my son what the problem is and he
will fix it in a few hours. Sorry to waste your bandwidth. Mark
>From: Bruce Gray <bruce.gray(at)snet.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 project for sale
>Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 13:34:57 -0400
>
>
>Mark,
>
>The pictures will not load. I tried both Netscape and Internet Explorer.
>
>Bruce
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com> |
I'm looking for Rich Janikowski's phone number (Risky Business) Treasure
Coast AirPark, FL.
thanks,
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Deposit |
I have been following this thread with great interest. I realize there are
different types of 02 sensors, but I thought (likely wrong) that they are
all pretty much the same thing...some are heated, some are not, yada yada
yada. I can tell you from my own experience that as soon as my 02 sensor
sees lead...it goes straight to sleep. I use one in a turbo charged race
car to tell me if something goes wrong in the fuel system....because going
lean will pop an engine pretty quickly while at full throttle (new porsche
engine in a box complete with head, valves, 400hp etc....$5K - I hate
Lycoming). Problem is, as soon as I introduce race fuel (leaded) to the
tank (race fuel) the 02 sensor goes straight to sleep. I just assumed that
the sensors didn't like lead. 50 miles of so after the leaded burns out and
unleaded replaces it the sensor comes back alive. I switched to a heated
version hoping to cook the lead off...but it didn't do anything differently.
I'll keep following the thread...maybe I'll learn something. Is the sensor
a specific 'leaded is ok' type sensor? Hmmm, I wonder if it's something
else besides the lead putting mine to sleep when I use race fuel.....dammit,
I hate when I have to consider I've been wrong for years. :-)
Bill
-4 wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Graham" <beeb(at)teleport.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2001 2:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: Spark Plug Deposit
>
> John,
>
> How do you get an Oxygen sensor to work in the 100LL environment? How
many
> hours before cleaning or changing? Can you tell from the display when the
> readings loose their validity?
>
> Can anyone on the list comment on the use of O2 sensors with leaded fuel?
>
> Gary, Digest
> RV-4FB Oregon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ClecoToo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 a "trainer" - that hurts! |
Greg, congrats on your RV9A. I have two friends building the 9A and both are
darn good tailwheel guys. They chose the 9A for it's performance envelope,
especially slow speed and it's excellent cross country capability. I have
chosen to build the new RV7A and I too am a pretty good tailwheel pilot.
First, I like the looks of the trike gear at least as much as the tailwheel
maybe more. Two, for long days in the saddle after getting tired and your
sharpness dulled a bit it is nice to have trike gear. three, the full castor
trike gear is more manuverable on the ground at least than the older type
Van's tailwheel and the airplane will be having good visibilty over the nose
also during taxi.
As to the acro--I need it--I want it--I must have it--- but I also fully
understand the great appeal of the 9A to my two friends to whom that is not
an issue. I doubt the 9A really is faster horsepower to horsepower than a 6
but who cares if it is 2.234678 MPH slower!
I just went through 6 years of pilots making fun of my last choice in
homebuilts and I put up with it politely but when I get my 7A done and the
first smartXXXX makes fun of my new baby they may find my foot up their rear.
We are all pilots, can we respect others choices? cleco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: RV-8 project for sale |
Hi Mark,
Sorry about the passing of you friend and hopefully you'll be able to see
his project for his widow quickly.
I noticed that the project is located near the Austin area and I had a
question about that area. My wife and I might have a business opportunity
that could take us to the Austin area and we were curious about living in
the area. Do you know if there are any "Aero Communities" in the immediate
vicinty of Austin? If so do you know if they have a web site or other means
of getting information about homes for sale at those communities?
I'm currently completing the wings on my RV6 project and while I don't
relish the idea of relocating myself and my wife "again", we might do it if
the job opportunity is right.
Thanks
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM (res) Building Flaps
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 a "trainer" - that hurts! |
Don't be so testy.Most of the people who kid about"Oh--you need a
training wheel"___.do so with in good natured ribbing.If you build a
tricycle or a tail dragger you made the right choice.You are going to
love it no matter which.
Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Gasketst |
| From: | b green <rvinfo(at)juno.com> |
>.
> Where are you getting new 14mm washers at I need some new ones.
>
> Jim Selby
> jimscjs(at)mbay.net
>
I got a hundred of them from Chief for about $25.00. So as I said
initially, I think new ones are the way to go, but I am curious as to the
right procedure. So far 5 people have said to cool them quickly, 2 have
said to cool them slowly and one person has said that the cooling rate
doesn't matter. And of couse three people have told me how cheap I am
for even being curious about the topic.
I will look it up in Marks Mechanical Engineering handbook, and perhaps
consult with some engineer friends.
Bruce Green
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: phone number |
| From: | james freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
on 6/17/01 7:46 PM, Jim Norman, MD at jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com wrote:
>
> I'm looking for Rich Janikowski's phone number (Risky Business) Treasure
> Coast AirPark, FL.
>
> thanks,
>
> Jim
JIm-- don't know of this helps, but Bernie Kerr (flying RV6A) and
beaglaviation.com are located at treasure Coast Airpark. Bernie may still
be on his alaskan odyssey and I'm embarrassed to say I don't rememeber the
guy's name who was running Beagle Aviation but he was very pleasant to talk
to when Bernie took me to his hangar and introduced us--He probabably didn't
realize I'd forget his name this quickly ;-)
James Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | proseal question |
I made a boo boo aprox 6 weeks ago with my first experience with pro seal. I
mixed half of the accelerator (hardener) than recommended. I was told by
many, "give it time." Sloooooooooowly it is getting harder. Now it is almost
impossible to make a dent it although it is NOT "rock hard."
Question: Should this goo be hard as metal?
All that I prosealed has been the stiffs, gas cap, and drain.
Question 2: Will I not break the seal if I continue to finish the tank?
I understand I could go on with other sections (first wing) and come back to
the tank.
I just need some assurance that this stuff will ever get to the hardness that
is needed-if not already.
Thanks, Bob in Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | proseal question |
1) It should not get rock-hard (then it would break when flexed). It sounds
like it is cured right now.
2) The seal won't break.
The accelerator is just that: It will *accelerate* the curing process, not
make it harder or better.
Are
RV-8 Wings
www.ontariorvators.org VAF-ORG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
Sent: June 17, 2001 6:41 PM
Subject: RV-List: proseal question
I made a boo boo aprox 6 weeks ago with my first experience with pro seal. I
mixed half of the accelerator (hardener) than recommended. I was told by
many, "give it time." Sloooooooooowly it is getting harder. Now it is almost
impossible to make a dent it although it is NOT "rock hard."
Question: Should this goo be hard as metal?
All that I prosealed has been the stiffs, gas cap, and drain.
Question 2: Will I not break the seal if I continue to finish the tank?
I understand I could go on with other sections (first wing) and come back to
the tank.
I just need some assurance that this stuff will ever get to the hardness
that
is needed-if not already.
Thanks, Bob in Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 a "trainer" - that hurts! |
>
> The military, airlines, bizjets, Beeches, Pipers, Cessnas, and even most
RVs
> etc etc are *****ALL***** nose wheel airplanes.
Yes they are, but like any decent plane stricken with a nose wheel,
military, bizjets, and airliners tuck theirs away when not on the ground.
They would be to embarrassed to be seen in the air with a growth hanging off
their nose. Cessna? Well, what can I say? They've got their wings on the
roof too....
Ever seen a bald eagle land with it's head on the ground?
I just can't help it....I'm a pilot...I have to make fun of other pilots.
Page three of the pilot rulebook says specifically that tailwheel pilots
must make fun of tri-gear trainers at every given opportunity. I'm just
following the rules. You can feel free to make fun of my pounced landings.
Oh, and disregard your wife's longing glances down the tarmac...at our tail
draggers. :-)
Ok, maybe wife jokes are a bit of a stretch..but hey we're RV guys..not
Glasair snobs. Well, all of us but Eric Henson....he's posing.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Gasket Sealant? |
What is the best type of sealant to use with cork gastkets?
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, N.C. N80910 res
Wiring & Plumbing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Gasket Sealant? |
Len,
I used Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket and had great results as far as not
leaking during testing. My buddy Paul has been flying his RV6 for about 55
hours now (2.5 with me today ..... grin) after having completed his wings
several years ago and so far everything is fine.
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM (res) Building Flaps
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
> What is the best type of sealant to use with cork gastkets?
>
> Len Leggette, RV-8A
> Greensboro, N.C. N80910 res
> Wiring & Plumbing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Deposit |
Bill Shook wrote:
>
>
> I have been following this thread with great interest. I realize there are
> different types of 02 sensors, but I thought (likely wrong) that they are
> all pretty much the same thing...some are heated, some are not, yada yada
> yada. I can tell you from my own experience that as soon as my 02 sensor
> sees lead...it goes straight to sleep. I use one in a turbo charged race
> car to tell me if something goes wrong in the fuel system....because going
> lean will pop an engine pretty quickly while at full throttle (new porsche
> engine in a box complete with head, valves, 400hp etc....$5K - I hate
> Lycoming). Problem is, as soon as I introduce race fuel (leaded) to the
> tank (race fuel) the 02 sensor goes straight to sleep. I just assumed that
> the sensors didn't like lead. 50 miles of so after the leaded burns out and
> unleaded replaces it the sensor comes back alive. I switched to a heated
> version hoping to cook the lead off...but it didn't do anything differently.
>
> I'll keep following the thread...maybe I'll learn something. Is the sensor
> a specific 'leaded is ok' type sensor? Hmmm, I wonder if it's something
> else besides the lead putting mine to sleep when I use race fuel.....dammit,
> I hate when I have to consider I've been wrong for years. :-)
>
> Bill
> -4 wings
snip
Bill,
try this site:
http://www.rotaryaviation.com
& find the O2 sensor link.
Tracy has used one & burned avgas. He has about 1000 hrs
experience with one & will probably be happy to discuss his
experience with you.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
> . After about 30 seconds, it becomes sort of a cross between
> > orange peel and a light wrinkle surface.
>
> To much material and too little air pressure.
> Put the pressure to about 40/50psi. adjust your gun to just under half for
> the material.
>
>
> Marcel de Ruiter
> RV4/G-RVMJ
> ACFT Painter
Thanks for the comments, seems like what worked was more reducer. I have a
turbine HVLP, which tends to blow warm air, drying things out faster.
Alex Peterson
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Moore <WP2J(at)swbell.net> |
| Subject: | Anybody near Kalispell, Montana? |
I will be going up to Kalispell, Montana on July 11 for three weeks and would
like to visit any RV projects. Does anybody on the list live in the area?
Bob Moore
Austin, Texas
RV-6 empennage (soon to be -7)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Deposit |
The oxygen sensor does not work properly until it has reached about 300
degrees fahrenheit. In the unheated version, this can take a minute or two
depending on ambient temperature. The heated versions are used in
automobiles to get their output as soon as possible, a few seconds. In
aircraft, using the simple output meter system, the heated ox sensor is not
necessary because you don't even fly until the engine is warm.
Garth Shearing
VariEze and RV6A
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Shook <billshook(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: June 17, 2001 1:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Spark Plug Deposit
>
> I have been following this thread with great interest. I realize there
are
> different types of 02 sensors, but I thought (likely wrong) that they are
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Plexiglass Repair |
List: About a week ago I thought I saw something on the list about a
product used to fill holes in Plexiglas?
I have a small #40 hole that I would like to fill in a Duckworth
Landing light lens. (Drilled wrong) The product was said to be clear and
even though the repair won't be seen it should be compatible to Plexi (Not
say Bondo).
After searching the archives I only came up with crack sealer which
appears too thin to work in a hole.
Thanks
Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Vince,
Dave and I cut our hole in the lower right corner (looking foward from the
cockpit), since our battery is in the rear baggae area. We also cut the hole
for the cable above it (you may want to route the cable from below.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (almost done wiring)
Niantic, CT (Westerly airport)
*************************
>
>I was looking and thinking again today (always a dangerous thing).
>Where are the -8 drivers entering the firewall with cabin heat? I am
>assuming that you are making a 2" hole for the flanged connection and
>then running flexible hose to some point. Where are you making the
>hole and how are you distributing the heat? I'm trying not to paint
>myself into a corner here.
>
>Vince Welch
>RV-8A Fuselage
>Roaming Shores, Ohio
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Fellow listers,
Please prepare yourself for many, many questions from a newbie.
The shop is ready; EAA standardized table and Emp jig built, Avery tool kit
received, Orndorf videos studied the way I used to study Playboy, RV7A emp
kit in the corner of the garage calling my name. Tomorrow begins practice
sessions with scrap, various metal working tools, and the rivet gun.
Having never driven a rivet in my life, and with zero experience reading
plans, it seems to me that the rudder is somewhat simpler than the Horizontal
Stab. (fewer parts to replace in the event of a mistake.) I anticipate
success with the project, but I am prepared for some failures as I gain
experience. My question for the day:
Is there any reason why I should not start with the rudder before the
horizontal stab?
John McDonnell (RV7A QB)
PS ... I'm on a three week vacation. Do you think I'll be able to get this
thing flying before I go back to work?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Getting Started |
Go slow start w/vert stab its easy 3x gun no more that 45 lbs reg air take
all the time you need get comfortable.
Pat N324EP RV-6-A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Getting Started |
> Please prepare yourself for many, many questions from a newbie.
Welcome aboard.
You will not be in the air before you get back to work.
:)
If you are in touch with your local EAA folks, see if one of them will
come over (perhaps another RV builder) and give you a quickie version
of the Building workshop George Orndorf puts on. Drilling, deburring,
dimpling, riveting (back-rivet, buck and squeeze).
After that, you'll just have to do what the rest of us have done: Start
banging away!
BTW, I have a friend who has just started a -7. Seems you are
_supposed_ to do the horizontal stab first, by the instructions...
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward (and a little interior)
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
Spot the hottest trends in music, movies, and more.
http://buzz.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: proseal question |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
06/18/2001 09:26:19 AM
Bob, been there dunnit. It will eventually harden.
I spoke with a person that makes a living as a chemist in these types of
materials. She said if you have mixed in hardener it will eventually fully
cure, the amount of hardener adjusts the time required not the cure. I
found her statement to be accurate. I have been burned three times now from
proseal. I now keep a color sample around that is well cured proseal. I
just match the color and that is good enough. I have tried the scales and
the balance beam method and just never had much luck.
Hope it helps
Eric
Bobpaulo(at)aol.com@matronics.com on 06/17/2001 06:40:46 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: proseal question
I made a boo boo aprox 6 weeks ago with my first experience with pro seal.
I
mixed half of the accelerator (hardener) than recommended. I was told by
many, "give it time." Sloooooooooowly it is getting harder. Now it is
almost
impossible to make a dent it although it is NOT "rock hard."
Question: Should this goo be hard as metal?
All that I prosealed has been the stiffs, gas cap, and drain.
Question 2: Will I not break the seal if I continue to finish the tank?
I understand I could go on with other sections (first wing) and come back
to
the tank.
I just need some assurance that this stuff will ever get to the hardness
that
is needed-if not already.
Thanks, Bob in Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Gasket Sealant? |
>
>What is the best type of sealant to use with cork gastkets?
>
>Len Leggette, RV-8A
>Greensboro, N.C. N80910 res
>Wiring & Plumbing
The best gasket is made thusly:
1. Deposit cork gasket in nearest trash receptacle.
2. Acquire can of Proseal, Black Death, Tank Sealant, or whatever you choose
to call this icky yet wondrous stuff.
3. Slather mixed Proseal where cork gasket is supposed to go and be done
with it.
There you have it. Guaranteed no leaks.
Just my opinion....derived from having to yank off leaky cork gaskets from a
finished airplane!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
212 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Getting Started |
> Is there any reason why I should not start with the rudder before the
> horizontal stab?
John,
The horizontal stap is a thicker skin than the rudder and elevators, and
therefore somewhat more immune to damage from a beginner's nervous hands. That's
why Van has you start there.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://buildersbooks.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith and Jean Williams" <kandjwilliams(at)earthlink.net> |
John,
You are gonna like this project! Based on long ago experience with RV6, my
suggestion is to start with the H. Stab. Its tougher and more forgiving.
Keith Williams
RV6
Moline, IL
-----Original Message-----
My question for the day:
Is there any reason why I should not start with the rudder before the
horizontal stab?
John McDonnell (RV7A QB)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Goldberg" <n95mf(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 project for sale |
Listers, yesterday I posted a message about my late friend's rv-8 almost
finished project for sale. My son attempted to load up some digital
pictures on a website. Several people contacted me off-list that the text
was there, but no pictures.
Well my son says he has the pictures loaded correctly now for your viewing
pleasure. (Thanks Bill VonDane & Cy Galley).
Info on the project and the pictures are at:
http://rv-8project.tripod.com/index.html
I had hoped to make yall laugh with some antecdotes of my friend. But I am
leaving town shortly. No time. Please spread the word to interested people
so my friend's widow can sell the project. Asking price $40,000. My
numbers are: 512/261-4122 (hm)& 512/626-7886 (cell) Mark Goldberg RV-8
N982RV flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Brake line |
Austin,
Dave did the breaks, but as best I can remember he bent the brake linr to
clear any obstructions. We had also used a fitting as the connection popint
between the lines inside the fuselage and the outside.
Take Care & Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (about 10 hours left on wiring)
Niantic, CT (Westerly, RI airport)
>Subject: RV-List: 6A Brake line
>Date: Sun, 6 Jan 1980 19:08:12 -0800
>
>
>Hi Listers,
> For those of you who built/are building a 6A or 8A, I
>have
>a question about the brake line as it exits the fuselage.
> Since the line has to come below the airfoil at some point near
>the
>gear leg, how did you handle the intersection with the metal wing fairing
>which wraps around past that point ?
> I realize a glass fairing will cover all of it, but did you cut a
>notch for the line to clear the metal wing fairing ? and also , did the
>intersection fairing cover part of the wing fairing under there ?
>Sound goofy ??
>Any input appreciated.
>Austin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald R. Eaves" <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com> |
John
Being the smallest of what you have at this point it - In my humble
opinion - the rudder is a good starting point.
Its skin is thinner and easier to screw up but most of the rivets are driven
with the backing plate.
Also if you screw something up it will cost you less to replace.
I don't have any experience with pre-punch but 3 weeks sounds like enough -
I have read where someone finished it in one weekend, but they were "Repeat
Offenders" (2nd> RV)
Good Luck
Don Eaves
RV6 Flying 46 hrs
Still working on leg fairings & Painting trim colors....
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of JTAnon(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2001 8:04 AM
Subject: RV-List: Getting Started
Fellow listers,
Please prepare yourself for many, many questions from a newbie.
The shop is ready; EAA standardized table and Emp jig built, Avery tool kit
received, Orndorf videos studied the way I used to study Playboy, RV7A emp
kit in the corner of the garage calling my name. Tomorrow begins practice
sessions with scrap, various metal working tools, and the rivet gun.
Having never driven a rivet in my life, and with zero experience reading
plans, it seems to me that the rudder is somewhat simpler than the
Horizontal
Stab. (fewer parts to replace in the event of a mistake.) I anticipate
success with the project, but I am prepared for some failures as I gain
experience. My question for the day:
Is there any reason why I should not start with the rudder before the
horizontal stab?
John McDonnell (RV7A QB)
PS ... I'm on a three week vacation. Do you think I'll be able to get this
thing flying before I go back to work?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Are Barstad <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Getting Started |
You may get many different opinions on this. Some will probably suggest you follow
the order in the manual.
Personally I would think that the Horizontal Stabilizer was the easiest in the
RV-8. This should get you off to a relatively easy start. The rudder involves
bending and some 'hard-to-reach' rivets (if it's the same as the -8).
Are
RV-8 Wings
>
> From: JTAnon(at)aol.com
> Date: 2001/06/18 Mon AM 09:04:13 EDT
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Getting Started
>
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> Please prepare yourself for many, many questions from a newbie.
>
> The shop is ready; EAA standardized table and Emp jig built, Avery tool kit
> received, Orndorf videos studied the way I used to study Playboy, RV7A emp
> kit in the corner of the garage calling my name. Tomorrow begins practice
> sessions with scrap, various metal working tools, and the rivet gun.
>
> Having never driven a rivet in my life, and with zero experience reading
> plans, it seems to me that the rudder is somewhat simpler than the Horizontal
> Stab. (fewer parts to replace in the event of a mistake.) I anticipate
> success with the project, but I am prepared for some failures as I gain
> experience. My question for the day:
>
> Is there any reason why I should not start with the rudder before the
> horizontal stab?
>
> John McDonnell (RV7A QB)
>
> PS ... I'm on a three week vacation. Do you think I'll be able to get this
> thing flying before I go back to work?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Getting Started |
In my opinion, the Rudder is the most difficult of the tail pieces to build. I'd
save it for last. The Vertical Stab is the easiest! Your looking
at about 250 Hrs including the fiberglass tips to complete the tail feathers.
Tommy
6A Ridgetop, TN
BTDT
----- Original Message -----
From: JTAnon(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2001 8:29 AM
Subject: RV-List: Getting Started
Fellow listers,
Please prepare yourself for many, many questions from a newbie.
The shop is ready; EAA standardized table and Emp jig built, Avery tool kit
received, Orndorf videos studied the way I used to study Playboy, RV7A emp
kit in the corner of the garage calling my name. Tomorrow begins practice
sessions with scrap, various metal working tools, and the rivet gun.
Having never driven a rivet in my life, and with zero experience reading
plans, it seems to me that the rudder is somewhat simpler than the Horizontal
Stab. (fewer parts to replace in the event of a mistake.) I anticipate
success with the project, but I am prepared for some failures as I gain
experience. My question for the day:
Is there any reason why I should not start with the rudder before the
horizontal stab?
John McDonnell (RV7A QB)
PS ... I'm on a three week vacation. Do you think I'll be able to get this
thing flying before I go back to work?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Calling the -9A a trainer |
Whats all the hub-ub? I dont see anything wrong with calling it a trainer. I
built a -9A for all the reasons Van designed it for, I thought a 6A would be
too much airplane for a low time pilot like me. If it wasnt for the 9 I
probably would have built a Murphy. Another damn fine airplane, but I think
my 9A is a whole lot sexier and should be faster, as well as fly just as
slow.
The T-6 was a trainer, and I know any one of us would give his left nad to
own one.
Kevin
getting real close
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 6/16/01 2:00:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
alexpeterson(at)usjet.net writes:
>
> I'm spraying corlar on etched aluminum, and I'm having a bit of difficulty
> getting a smooth surface. It is mixed with about 35% reducer, and seems to
> go on nicely. After about 30 seconds, it becomes sort of a cross between
> orange peel and a light wrinkle surface. I'm putting on a thin coat. The
> dew point is 55F, 57%RH. The paint is brand new. The roughness is
> generally covered by the color and clear coats, but it is bugging me.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> 6A
>
>
>
I used Corlar on my -4. Dupont Tech group said do not use reducer. Spray it
on at the 2-1 mix and after it is completely dried go over with a scotch
brite pad the primer will smooth out nicely for your paint job.
Good Luck
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: Gasket Sealant? |
> The best gasket is made thusly:
>
> 1. Deposit cork gasket in nearest trash receptacle.
> 2. Acquire can of Proseal, Black Death, Tank Sealant, or whatever you
choose
> to call this icky yet wondrous stuff.
> 3. Slather mixed Proseal where cork gasket is supposed to go and be done
> with it.
>
> There you have it. Guaranteed no leaks.
>
> Just my opinion....derived from having to yank off leaky cork gaskets from
a
> finished airplane!
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> 212 hours
I second that, and can speak as one who has removed Prosealed inspection
covers and fuel senders. 10 minutes to remove, an hour to clean properly. No
biggie, and more importantly NO LEAKS.
Randy Lervold
RV-8 N558RL, 43.2 hours
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 a "trainer" - that hurts! |
In a message dated 6/17/01 4:21:33 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
kempthornes(at)home.com writes:
>
Now is that an F1 RV9A or a HR RV9A ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
BAD MOVE and BAD ADVISE. You will only get dinged by what you don't enter.
Not by what you do. Also, check your Operating Limitations. All the newer
ones and a lot of older ones have language that require you to make all
maintenance entries.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: Bruce Gray <bruce.gray(at)snet.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Logbook
>Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 00:44:25 -0400
>
>
>Perhaps I'm paranoid, but I think your best protected with minimum entries
>in
>the aircraft maintenance logbook. The more details you provide, the more
>ammunition you give the FAA and insurance companies to hang you out to dry
>if
>anything happens. So, I plan to only use that language and entries that are
>required by regulations.
>
>BTW, I'm not advocating not keeping records. Keep a record of everything,
>just
>don't write it in the 'logbook'.
>
>Bruce
>Glasair III
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Getting Started |
I am just finishing up my right elevator on my RV-7 emp kit. I followed the
order in the manual and I am glad that I did and here is why...
The VS is by far the easiest part of the tail kit, but is has no bottom so
screw ups will be more visible. I pounded the rivets on the top of the HS
skin first (with help from my lovely wife) and those went well because they
are fairly easy. That left the bottom of the HS to do while contorting
myself in all the various shapes needed to reach in there and buck those
rivets on the second side. These did not look as good as the top skin
rivets but they are on the bottom. This gave me the needed practice for the
VS which turned out much better.
Another reason that I would follow the manual is because the author of the
manual assumes that you will, and the hand-holding details start
disappearing as you progress through the kit. Not really a big deal since
you can simply go back and read.
I would not build any of the control surfaces of the -7 until you have the
corresponding stabilizer finished because you need something to get the
counterbalance skin aligned with. The older -6 kits this didn't matter with
the rudder but it does with the -7 because of the CB rudder. Personally I
found the rudder to be the most difficult thus far. I am not sure why but
it seemed to cause more hair pulling than the HS. Of course I havn't
started the left elevator yet.
Above all have fun I am loving this, I am sure you will too.
Phil Birkelbach
RV-7 Wing kit on it's way, almost done on the tail.
http://phil.petrasoft.net/rv
----- Original Message -----
From: <JTAnon(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2001 8:04 AM
Subject: RV-List: Getting Started
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> Please prepare yourself for many, many questions from a newbie.
>
> The shop is ready; EAA standardized table and Emp jig built, Avery tool
kit
> received, Orndorf videos studied the way I used to study Playboy, RV7A emp
> kit in the corner of the garage calling my name. Tomorrow begins practice
> sessions with scrap, various metal working tools, and the rivet gun.
>
> Having never driven a rivet in my life, and with zero experience reading
> plans, it seems to me that the rudder is somewhat simpler than the
Horizontal
> Stab. (fewer parts to replace in the event of a mistake.) I anticipate
> success with the project, but I am prepared for some failures as I gain
> experience. My question for the day:
>
> Is there any reason why I should not start with the rudder before the
> horizontal stab?
>
> John McDonnell (RV7A QB)
>
> PS ... I'm on a three week vacation. Do you think I'll be able to get
this
> thing flying before I go back to work?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Armstrong" <armstrong(at)coastside.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Ring Proseal??? |
I am a long ways from doing my tanks, but I worked as a maintenance
machinist for many years. I found that Permatex #2 on both sides of a cork
gasket almost always works. Spread it as thin as possible. If you need to
redo it for any reason, carb cleaner cuts permatex.
George Armstrong
RV6A on hold till I pass my Instrument checkride.
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Nellis <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2001 11:37 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tank Ring Proseal???
>
> Jack, you shouldn't have to proseal the inside reinforcement ring at all.
> The outside coverplate and gasket should provide all the sealing
necessary.
> That's how I did mine recently and no leaks during testing.
>
> Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
> Plainfield, IL
> RV6 N699BM (res) Building Flaps
> Stinson 108-2 N9666K
>
> > When attaching the tank ring to the inside of the rib with the
> > platenuts, should I use proseal during assembly or after?
> > Thanks,
> > Jack Textor
> > RV8, tanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ClecoToo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Getting Started |
In a message dated 6/18/01 8:11:33 AM Central Daylight Time, JTAnon(at)aol.com
writes:
<< JTAnon(at)aol.com >>
I suggest you get some scrap metal and practice there. Time spent on scrap
now will prevent the construction scrap or conversion of nice shiney aluminum
into scrap. Of course it will be a learning process the whole way but the
steepest part is the first strides so do those on things that will not be in
your new 7A--best dang airplane in the universe. cleco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
I'll second that. I have a fair amount of sheet metal experience so I just
dived in on my HS and went to work. Sheet metal experience is helpful but
working on an aluminum plane is unique. You can tell what side I did first
and the quality improves on each part. One thing I found that practice won't
improve--experienced builders have little tricks and secrets that they've
learned or developed from previous projects. If you can find a local builder
that knows some of these--or can see a project near completion and like the
quality of work--talk to the builder and get him/her to share!
Greg Tanner
RV-9A WINGS
O-320 D1A/CATTO
N80BR RESERVED
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ClecoToo(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2001 11:05 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Getting Started
In a message dated 6/18/01 8:11:33 AM Central Daylight Time, JTAnon(at)aol.com
writes:
<< JTAnon(at)aol.com >>
I suggest you get some scrap metal and practice there. Time spent on scrap
now will prevent the construction scrap or conversion of nice shiney
aluminum
into scrap. Of course it will be a learning process the whole way but the
steepest part is the first strides so do those on things that will not be in
your new 7A--best dang airplane in the universe. cleco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Condition Inspection |
Just a quick word of thanks to Randy for offering and Kevin for posting
the Condition Inspection.
Looks great and like randy said should be able to be modified for all RV's
Thanks again guys,
Jim Duckett
Heading to Van's for 7A parts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 a "trainer" - that hurts! |
Oh, golly! I almost lost out on a chance to tick somebody off!!! I
just caught this thread and see somebody else has had his/her
feelings hurt. Boy, that sure happens often enough. I know my own
skin isn't nearly tough enough, either. Been burned a lot because I
stick my nose into things too much. :-)
Alas, as much as some of us hate to admit it, the RV-9A was given
the billing as being Van's trainer. Granted, it's a mighty fine ship that
does wonders when compared to a Cessna, Piper, etc.; but, it isn't
like any of the other RVs in the fleet. The sad thing is that it came
along way too many years after I started building my RV. Unlike old
Rick Caldwell, I'm a timid pilot who is quite happy going from point A
to point B in something that just looks neat. Rick likes to mix it up.
I like the -9A since it does just exactly what I want and looks great.
Right now, I'm waiting to see what Van cooks up for a four place.
I'm hoping it's a nice ship. However, if I weren't so stuck on that
idea, I'd be torn between the RV-9A and the RV-7A. I like both. I'll
hold off as long as I can by helping Pat Patterson in his shop, from
time to time; but, I know I'm going to order a kit one of these days.
The choice will be tough. Seems the RV-7A may be a tad easier to
build; but, the RV-9A gives me the airplane for my mission. Boy, I
sure can see why you folks have trouble deciding. :-)
>Think about all those RV-6A guys flying around in VanGrummans,
>now they should have something to complain about. :)
Uh, Jerry, I resemble that remark; or, is that resent that remark? :-)
I had a Grumman Cheetah and found it to be a nice airplane. In fact,
I thought about calling my RV-6A the "Ugly Yankee" for the (now
notice this isn't a Grumman) American Yankee, the parent to the little
two and four placer Grummans. Alas, I decided to be more kind and
didn't call it ugly. I decided on "Scooter Two." The other Scooter is
my Miata. :-) I sure miss my Cheetah, though.
Gotta go. You guys cool it out there. This is no place for ruffled
feathers.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Deposit |
A Canadian company, Iceman Aviation Supplies, 160 Industrial Avenue,
Carleton Place, Ontario K7C 3T2, makes and O2 sensor system with an O2
probe in the exhaust and a "brain box" that claculates when the mixture
setting is stoichiometric at cruise settings, a panel light illuminates,
and you then richen the mixture until the light just goes out. This
should be your "optimum" cruise mixture setting and max fuel efficiency.
They claim their sensor will last for approx. 200 hrs with 100LL. I
have the unit but have not installed it, yet. I will get you feedback
when the unit is in and working.
I believe it's listed in the ACS catalogue under AVMIX Mixture Sensing System.
I had bookmarked their URL: http://www.dica.ca/iceindex.htm
They also make a carb ice sensor/alert system.
Boyd Braem
ripped her apart for the 3 yr "annual"
Bill Shook wrote:
>
>
> I have been following this thread with great interest. I realize there are
> different types of 02 sensors, but I thought (likely wrong) that they are
> all pretty much the same thing...some are heated, some are not, yada yada
> yada. I can tell you from my own experience that as soon as my 02 sensor
> sees lead...it goes straight to sleep. I use one in a turbo charged race
> car to tell me if something goes wrong in the fuel system....because going
> lean will pop an engine pretty quickly while at full throttle (new porsche
> engine in a box complete with head, valves, 400hp etc....$5K - I hate
> Lycoming). Problem is, as soon as I introduce race fuel (leaded) to the
> tank (race fuel) the 02 sensor goes straight to sleep. I just assumed that
> the sensors didn't like lead. 50 miles of so after the leaded burns out and
> unleaded replaces it the sensor comes back alive. I switched to a heated
> version hoping to cook the lead off...but it didn't do anything differently.
>
> I'll keep following the thread...maybe I'll learn something. Is the sensor
> a specific 'leaded is ok' type sensor? Hmmm, I wonder if it's something
> else besides the lead putting mine to sleep when I use race fuel.....dammit,
> I hate when I have to consider I've been wrong for years. :-)
>
> Bill
> -4 wings
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gary Graham" <beeb(at)teleport.com>
> To: "RV List"
> Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2001 2:02 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Spark Plug Deposit
>
> >
> > John,
> >
> > How do you get an Oxygen sensor to work in the 100LL environment? How
> many
> > hours before cleaning or changing? Can you tell from the display when the
> > readings loose their validity?
> >
> > Can anyone on the list comment on the use of O2 sensors with leaded fuel?
> >
> > Gary, Digest
> > RV-4FB Oregon
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)cannondesign.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 / 6a kit for sale |
RV-6 / 6a kit for sale.
Empennage: Complete except for fiberglass tips. Includes electric elevator trim
kit. All parts are alodined and primed with Marhyde primer.
Wings & Phlogiston Spar: Both skeletons assembled. Skins drilled to left wing.
ALL parts (assembled or not) are alodined and primed with Deft epoxy primer
(Mil-P-23377G).
Both kits are the pre-punched versions purchased in 1997 & 1998 by myself. Construction
is excellent. Preview plans and Orndorff videos included for both kits.
Priced to sell: $5000
If all items were purchased separately the price would be more than $6500 for unassembled
kits. The reason for selling is that my wife and I have our first
child on the way and an old house to rebuild first. The tools are not for sale;
I will be keeping them to guarantee that I will build another RV in the near
future!
Scott Kuebler
716-695-1987 home
716-510-0318 cell
skuebler(at)cannondesign.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: groundloops etc - A broken tailwheel spring bolt |
It was with great surprise that I read of someones problem with his
tailwheel spring this weekend. I had a similar thing happen to me this
weekend. I was departing a very short airstrip in southeastern CT and did
my normal short field procedure. Partial flaps, etc. I also like to get
the nose of the plane right up to the end of the runway pivot on one wheel.
Normally, my tailwheel swings around onto the grass which leaves me
positioned with themains on the pavement and the tailwheel on the grass.
(whats that saying about the usefulness of runway behind ) This time it
didn't work exactly that way. As I pivoted I heard a loud bang and the
rudder went hard left. I pushed on the pedals and it wouldn't move. I shut
down the engine, got out, and dragged the airplane off the runway. upon
examination I found the tailwheel had spun about 90 degrees on the spring.
Thankfully, the spring didn't spin and no disassembly was required. I
removed the bolt fragments, checked the spring and replaced the bolt. Good
as new. However it got me thinking. Spining like that over rough ground
applies a twisting force to the tailwheel spring isn't really meant to
handle. Live and learn.
Don Mei
RV-4 N92CT
Chester, CT 3B9
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <tomvelvick(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | shipping engines |
I am getting ready to ship a Lycoming engine from Phoenix, AZ to
Mass. Roadway wants $760 to ship it. I wonder if anyone out there knows
of a cheaper carrier or better way to ship an engine.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
Peoria, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Tate" <tate(at)onlinemac.com> |
| Subject: | shipping engines |
I just had one shipped from NC to Oregon for $220 on Yellow Freight. This
was dock to dock. To your door will be much higher.
Ed Tate
NW Oregon
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Thomas Velvick
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2001 12:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: shipping engines
I am getting ready to ship a Lycoming engine from Phoenix, AZ to
Mass. Roadway wants $760 to ship it. I wonder if anyone out there knows
of a cheaper carrier or better way to ship an engine.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
Peoria, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Father's Day |
randy,
that was a great story, if you keep that up, i'll start calling your corsair
2 or austin 2.
poetry in motion !!!
scott
tampa
rv6a finishing, 0360 c/s N747ES
ALMOST READY TO PAINT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Calling the -9A a trainer |
WOW RICK,
you go boy !! your doing cuban eights in your rv now. man i wish i still had
rivits to squish, cause i'd be out there squishing them. i guess i'll grab a
soldering iron and get after it.
come up to tampa soon & bring bill shook, i'll buy you guys lunch.
scott
tampa
rv6a finishing,
0360 c/s almost ready for paint.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
Now THIS ONE I feel is worthy of the archives...
Very nicely done Randy...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
Subject: RV-List: Father's Day
On Sunday, I had resolved myself to staying at home, enjoying my family (it
was
Father's Day after all), and maybe getting a few chores done around the
house.
However, the high pressure system dominating weather in Central Indiana
refused
to go away and the result was a spectacular evening of unlimited visibility,
warm temperatures, and zero wind. I just HAD to fly.
A call to son number one produced the usual "Sure, I'll go" so off we headed
to the airport. Franklin Flying Field is a throw back to the old days. It
is a quiet country airport with just a bunch of small airplanes, a few
ultralights,
and a jump school. The grass had just been cut and its sweet smell
permeated
the air. We quickly prepped the airplane and taxied out past fellow RV'er
Carl
Schilling and friends, who were relaxing in their fold up chairs by their
hangar,
judging the evening's takeoffs and landings.
Something about the evening felt special. All the sights, sounds, and
smells
were......well, they were just RIGHT. It's just the way you dream it when
you
dream about flying. We took off into the still air and headed out for
dinner
at a fancy-smancy airport restaurant about 20 minutes away. We probably
never
got higher than 1500' AGL the whole way. It was a perfect evening for
gazing
at the rolling landscape just above cell tower height.
We landed and taxied up to the restaurant on the field, parking right in
front
of their big picture windows. We enjoyed a great steak dinner while we
watched
other airplanes land and take off. We departed just at dusk as the sun was
slowly sinking behind some high cirrus clouds on the horizon. The farm
fields
below us glowed in an orange hue. Following a left turn departure, I let
Alex
fly the airplane all the way back to our home field. To tell you the truth,
I was nearly in tears as I gazed out the left side of the canopy, breathing
in all the sensations I could.
After a low approach down the runway to scare away any critters, we circled
overhead and landed. Back at the hangar, I reluctantly pulled the mixture
to
bring the big noise maker to a halt. I really, really, didn't want to climb
out of the cockpit.
If we are lucky, we encounter days when when all of the hard work and pain
it
took to get our birds in the air is paid back to us in one moment. When the
love of flying, family, and life itself is perfectly intertwined with the
moment.
For me, that day was Father's Day 2001. I'm amazed as how many times I'm
asked
the question "Was it worth it to build your own airplane?" Now when I'm
asked,
I'm just going to grin from ear to ear, close my eyes, and say "Yeah, it was
worth it. It was WAY worth it!"
Okay, now get back in the garage and get back to work!!
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (161 hours and still grinning)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gregory Scott" <gregory.scott1(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: groundloops etc - A broken tailwheel spring bolt |
Don,
You wrote "bolt" do I take it that you only have one bolt on your tailwheel?
Should be 2 bolts I think you'll find.
Greg Scott
UK RV - 4
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2001 7:36 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: groundloops etc - A broken tailwheel spring bolt
>
> It was with great surprise that I read of someones problem with his
> tailwheel spring this weekend. I had a similar thing happen to me this
> weekend. I was departing a very short airstrip in southeastern CT and did
> my normal short field procedure. Partial flaps, etc. I also like to get
> the nose of the plane right up to the end of the runway pivot on one
wheel.
> Normally, my tailwheel swings around onto the grass which leaves me
> positioned with themains on the pavement and the tailwheel on the grass.
> (whats that saying about the usefulness of runway behind ) This time it
> didn't work exactly that way. As I pivoted I heard a loud bang and the
> rudder went hard left. I pushed on the pedals and it wouldn't move. I
shut
> down the engine, got out, and dragged the airplane off the runway. upon
> examination I found the tailwheel had spun about 90 degrees on the spring.
> Thankfully, the spring didn't spin and no disassembly was required. I
> removed the bolt fragments, checked the spring and replaced the bolt.
Good
> as new. However it got me thinking. Spining like that over rough ground
> applies a twisting force to the tailwheel spring isn't really meant to
> handle. Live and learn.
>
> Don Mei
> RV-4 N92CT
> Chester, CT 3B9
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Calling the -9A a trainer |
Scott...
I got plenty of rivets to squish. For next time you really get that
urge...know what I mean? :-)
Bill
-4 wings
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2001 5:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Calling the -9A a trainer
>
> WOW RICK,
> you go boy !! your doing cuban eights in your rv now. man i wish i still
had
> rivits to squish, cause i'd be out there squishing them. i guess i'll grab
a
> soldering iron and get after it.
> come up to tampa soon & bring bill shook, i'll buy you guys lunch.
> scott
> tampa
> rv6a finishing,
> 0360 c/s almost ready for paint.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lucite etc <letc(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plexiglass Repair |
hi tom & cathy,
there is something on the market called acrylic cement, its in a red tube.
i use it in my shop for acrylic fabrication on thicker material. it stays
clear.
i can tell you who makes it, just have to get back in my shop in the morning.
you can call me @ 602-352-1180 ( sass acrylic).
tom
Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
>
> List: About a week ago I thought I saw something on the list about a
> product used to fill holes in Plexiglas?
> I have a small #40 hole that I would like to fill in a Duckworth
> Landing light lens. (Drilled wrong) The product was said to be clear and
> even though the repair won't be seen it should be compatible to Plexi (Not
> say Bondo).
> After searching the archives I only came up with crack sealer which
> appears too thin to work in a hole.
> Thanks
>
> Tom in Ohio
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> |
| Subject: | shipping engines |
I know you can save some money if you ship to a business rather than a
private residence. I had mine shipped to the plant where I work and saved
$85.
-----Original Message-----
From: Thomas Velvick [mailto:tomvelvick(at)home.com]
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2001 12:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: shipping engines
I am getting ready to ship a Lycoming engine from Phoenix, AZ to
Mass. Roadway wants $760 to ship it. I wonder if anyone out there knows
of a cheaper carrier or better way to ship an engine.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
Peoria, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | looking for electrical schematic |
dear listers,
i'm looking for a rotory switch wiring schematic for my egt & cht. i have 4
egt's and 4 cht's.
how do they work? is 1 wire ground and the other an output signal. could i
tie all together ( just 1 of the wires per set ) and hook the other wires to
the rotory switch?
are d both wires need to go to a seperate guage?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: groundloops etc - A broken tailwheel spring bolt |
Where is this "bolt" in the tail wheel assembly that you and JVanLaak
report as broken? My springs are attached to the tail wheel steering
horn and to the rudder horn by chain links. The bolt that fits into the
rudder horn is a 3/16 with a cotter pin and is free to turn/swivel
inside the hole with very little friction and is under very little tension.
Is this perhaps the older style tail wheel with the "hook" into the tail
wheel swivel was curved rather than the newer right-angle zerk-fitted
tail wheel fork?
Donald Mei wrote:
>
>
> It was with great surprise that I read of someones problem with his
> tailwheel spring this weekend. I had a similar thing happen to me this
> weekend. I was departing a very short airstrip in southeastern CT and did
> my normal short field procedure. Partial flaps, etc. I also like to get
> the nose of the plane right up to the end of the runway pivot on one wheel.
> Normally, my tailwheel swings around onto the grass which leaves me
> positioned with themains on the pavement and the tailwheel on the grass.
> (whats that saying about the usefulness of runway behind ) This time it
> didn't work exactly that way. As I pivoted I heard a loud bang and the
> rudder went hard left. I pushed on the pedals and it wouldn't move. I shut
> down the engine, got out, and dragged the airplane off the runway. upon
> examination I found the tailwheel had spun about 90 degrees on the spring.
> Thankfully, the spring didn't spin and no disassembly was required. I
> removed the bolt fragments, checked the spring and replaced the bolt. Good
> as new. However it got me thinking. Spining like that over rough ground
> applies a twisting force to the tailwheel spring isn't really meant to
> handle. Live and learn.
>
> Don Mei
> RV-4 N92CT
> Chester, CT 3B9
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | electrical connectors |
dear listers,
i was wondering if there is another source for a 15 pin computer type
connector ( 2 rows of pins ) radio shak sells them in 3 row of pins. for my
terra tri nav.
on another note, i need a rotory switch for my clock/temp gauge. the radio
shak rotory switches doesn't have enough thread to get the nut on. i need one
with a longer threaded area.
anybody have a clue?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electrical connectors |
http://www.digi-key.com has it all. Highly recommend
one of their catalogs, cause they have pictures of
everything with clear details on different specs of
each item.
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Inspection soon
--- ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> dear listers,
> i was wondering if there is another source for a 15
> pin computer type
> connector ( 2 rows of pins ) radio shak sells them
> in 3 row of pins. for my
> terra tri nav.
> on another note, i need a rotory switch for my
> clock/temp gauge. the radio
> shak rotory switches doesn't have enough thread to
> get the nut on. i need one
> with a longer threaded area.
> anybody have a clue?
> scott
> tampa
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Spot the hottest trends in music, movies, and more.
http://buzz.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: looking for electrical schematic |
Check out: http://www.rkymtn.com/minstall.pdf
Scroll down to page 11. There is a schematic for the
Rocky Mountain, but I assume the same logic applies
for other gauges. You need adobe acrobat reader to
read it. If you don't have it, you can download it
from http://www.adobe.com for free.
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Inspection soon!
--- ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> dear listers,
> i'm looking for a rotory switch wiring schematic for
> my egt & cht. i have 4
> egt's and 4 cht's.
> how do they work? is 1 wire ground and the other an
> output signal. could i
> tie all together ( just 1 of the wires per set ) and
> hook the other wires to
> the rotory switch?
> are d both wires need to go to a seperate guage?
> scott
> tampa
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Spot the hottest trends in music, movies, and more.
http://buzz.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Schlosser" <kevinschlosser(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electrical connectors |
1-800-digikey or www.digikey.com
----- Original Message -----
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2001 6:09 PM
Subject: RV-List: electrical connectors
dear listers,
i was wondering if there is another source for a 15 pin computer type
connector ( 2 rows of pins ) radio shak sells them in 3 row of pins. for
my
terra tri nav.
on another note, i need a rotory switch for my clock/temp gauge. the radio
shak rotory switches doesn't have enough thread to get the nut on. i need one
with a longer threaded area.
anybody have a clue?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: looking for electrical schematic |
In a message dated Mon, 18 Jun 2001 5:38:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
writes:
dear listers,
i'm looking for a rotory switch wiring schematic for my egt & cht. i have 4
egt's and 4 cht's.
how do they work? is 1 wire ground and the other an output signal. could i
tie all together ( just 1 of the wires per set ) and hook the other wires to
the rotory switch?
are d both wires need to go to a seperate gauge?>>
They are separate entities and must not be bussed together. These are bi-metal
thermocouples and Bob Nuckolls has always said that whatever you do to one lead
of the thermocouple you must do to the other lead of the thermocouple. If
one side goes thru a given circuit (switch, contact pair, etc.) the other side
must go thru an identical circuit, meaning in this case that the switch must
be a two circuit rotary switch. Treat them both the same and you will preserve
the differential voltage characteristics that are required to get an accurate
reading at the gauge.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVanLaak(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: groundloops etc - A broken tailwheel spring bolt |
The one in my plane is the one in the weldment forward of the rudder post.
When it broke the rod tailwheel spring rotated 90 degrees and the tailwheel
laid down flat.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <glassman(at)tns.net> |
Kim wrote:-
From: Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: RV9 a "trainer" - that hurts!
At the last minute, I got an invitation to fly (in a Cessna - sorry) to
the
Scappose, Oregon RV fly in yesterday. Lots of very wonderful RV's
attended.
When I mentioned to an RV6 driver that I am builiding a RV9, he
referred to
it as the "Van's trainer". In fairness, he was partly joking. I may
not go
as fast or do aerobatics, (I throw up...) I am still glad I am building
the
9.
Kim Nicholas
RV9 wings
Mildly humbled in Seattle
Hi Kim,
I had one of Vans tech guys, Ken maybe, describe the RV9 as a
"Babycarriage". He also admiited that it's a popular ride with the guys
at the factory. When I review all the features the plane offers it fits
my needs more closely than anything else anywhere. A terrific plane
which I hope to use as a real babycarriage for a couple of Very Young
Eagles I know.
Nihil illigitime te carborundum.
Fly safe.
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Father's Day |
This weekend, north Alabama enjoyed the same remarkable dome of high
pressure that covered Indiana Sunday. Matter of fact, Saturday was
probably the clearest summer day I have seen in Alabama since I began
flying ten years ago!
I likewise made a late decision to visit the airport. My daughter
decided to accompany me since it had been months since she had been in
the RV. We had a great flight that ended about dark thirty, and she
enjoyed flying the RV-6 over the Elk river near the Tennessee state
line.
As Randy has stated, the evening light was spectacular. It reminded me
of the special flight Melanie and I made three years ago in our old J-3:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/beat.html
It is flights such as these that make me mentally pinch myself to see if
flying my homebuilt plane is reality or just a fantastic dream. The
capabilities of our little planes to allow us to make long flights over
memorable terrain, and short flights with memorable people is
astounding, and can only be fully appreciated after several hours have
accumulated on the clock.
Those of you still building, stay with it. The payoff is far greater
than you can imagine!
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 275 hrs)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
===================
rpflanze(at)iquest.net wrote:
>
>
> On Sunday, I had resolved myself to staying at home, enjoying my family (it was
> Father's Day after all), and maybe getting a few chores done around the house.
> However, the high pressure system dominating weather in Central Indiana refused
> to go away and the result was a spectacular evening of unlimited visibility,
> warm temperatures, and zero wind. I just HAD to fly.
>
> A call to son number one produced the usual "Sure, I'll go" so off we headed
> to the airport. Franklin Flying Field is a throw back to the old days. It
> is a quiet country airport with just a bunch of small airplanes, a few ultralights,
> and a jump school. The grass had just been cut and its sweet smell permeated
> the air. We quickly prepped the airplane and taxied out past fellow RV'er Carl
> Schilling and friends, who were relaxing in their fold up chairs by their hangar,
> judging the evening's takeoffs and landings.
>
> Something about the evening felt special. All the sights, sounds, and smells
> were......well, they were just RIGHT. It's just the way you dream it when you
> dream about flying. We took off into the still air and headed out for dinner
> at a fancy-smancy airport restaurant about 20 minutes away. We probably never
> got higher than 1500' AGL the whole way. It was a perfect evening for gazing
> at the rolling landscape just above cell tower height.
>
> We landed and taxied up to the restaurant on the field, parking right in front
> of their big picture windows. We enjoyed a great steak dinner while we watched
> other airplanes land and take off. We departed just at dusk as the sun was
> slowly sinking behind some high cirrus clouds on the horizon. The farm fields
> below us glowed in an orange hue. Following a left turn departure, I let Alex
> fly the airplane all the way back to our home field. To tell you the truth,
> I was nearly in tears as I gazed out the left side of the canopy, breathing
> in all the sensations I could.
>
> After a low approach down the runway to scare away any critters, we circled
> overhead and landed. Back at the hangar, I reluctantly pulled the mixture to
> bring the big noise maker to a halt. I really, really, didn't want to climb
> out of the cockpit.
>
> If we are lucky, we encounter days when when all of the hard work and pain it
> took to get our birds in the air is paid back to us in one moment. When the
> love of flying, family, and life itself is perfectly intertwined with the moment.
> For me, that day was Father's Day 2001. I'm amazed as how many times I'm asked
> the question "Was it worth it to build your own airplane?" Now when I'm asked,
> I'm just going to grin from ear to ear, close my eyes, and say "Yeah, it was
> worth it. It was WAY worth it!"
>
> Okay, now get back in the garage and get back to work!!
>
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G
> RV-6 (161 hours and still grinning)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <glassman(at)tns.net> |
| Subject: | Tank reinforcing ring proseal. |
From: "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RV-List: Tank Ring Proseal???
Happy Fathers Day Dads!
When attaching the tank ring to the inside of the rib with the
platenuts, should I use proseal during assembly or after?
Rob W M Shipley. glassman(at)tns.net
Hi Jack,
I called Vans with the same question and they said "No' .
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: groundloops etc - A broken tailwheel spring bolt |
In a message dated 6/18/01 5:43:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time, bcbraem(at)home.com
writes:
>
> Where is this "bolt" in the tail wheel assembly that you and JVanLaak
> report as broken? My springs are attached to the tail wheel steering
> horn and to the rudder horn by chain links. The bolt that fits into the
> rudder horn is a 3/16 with a cotter pin and is free to turn/swivel
> inside the hole with very little friction and is under very little tension.
>
From the context, I think the "broken bolt" is the one that goes throught the
weldment and "pins in" the tailwheel spring (the tapered rod). This bolt is
in the last bay in the aft fuse.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: electrical connectors/THANKS |
THANKS,
I found Digitkeys webpage, but does any one know what the correct terminology
for the Computer type printer cable connector with 15 pins in 2 row thingy?
scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electrical connectors/THANKS |
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> THANKS,
> I found Digitkeys webpage, but does any one know what the correct terminology
> for the Computer type printer cable connector with 15 pins in 2 row thingy?
> scott
>
Common names are 'sub-D' or 'D-sub' (D shaped housing).
The 25 pin versions were used as serial interface connectors
long before IBM 'misused' them as parallel connectors on the
1st IBM PC's.
Try Digikey's 800 number & ask for a 15 pin sub-D serial
connector.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
Listers:
Guess I should have been more detailed in my original message .... I am
speaking about cork gaskets on the rocker panels on the engine .
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Greensboro, N.C.
Plumbing & Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | C&F Hiatt <hiattcf(at)earthlink.net> |
I have an RV-6A project that I am forced to abandon due to health
reasons. Empenage-95% complete, wings-50% complete, Phlogiston spar,
Barnard quick build parts, many extras, construction videos, tons of
RV-List building info, and complete tool set. Top notch construction,
wing skins fitted, heated pitot mounted, wing levelor servo mount
installed, includes low fuel warning sensors for both wings. Invested
$7800, make offer.
If interested, please contact me off list for details.
Thanks,
Fred
--
Fred & Carolynn Hiatt Tel: (952) 898-4328
hiattcf(at)earthlink.net
Fax: (952) 898-5895
http://home.earthlink.net~hiattcf/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | C&F Hiatt <hiattcf(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6/6A project for sale |
I have an RV-6A project that I am forced to abandon due to health
reasons. Empenage-95% complete, wings-50% complete, Phlogiston spar,
Barnard quick build parts, many extras, construction videos, tons of
RV-List building info, and complete tool set. Top notch construction,
wing skins fitted, heated pitot mounted, wing levelor servo mount
installed, includes low fuel warning sensors for both wings. Invested
$7800, make offer.
If interested, please contact me off list for details.
Thanks,
Fred
--
Fred & Carolynn Hiatt Tel: (952) 898-4328
hiattcf(at)earthlink.net
Fax: (952) 898-5895
http://home.earthlink.net~hiattcf/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tripp Myrick" <tmyrick(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Aileron pushrod lengths |
Listers,
I am getting ready to cut my aileron pushrod tubes and want to verify the
correct lengths before I cut. Maybe someone with newer plans than 1996
could verify this for me. This is on RV-8 Dwg 15. The latest revision is
from the Dec 97 RVator and says the W-816 length is 69 3/8" end-to-end and
72 11/16" C/L to C/L. Is this correct or have there been any newer
revisions? Also the W-818 is shown to be 23 13/16" end-to-end and 27 5/8"
C/L to C/L. Is this correct? I don't believe that all the revisions are
being published and made available to builders and since I have made several
errors because of older plans I want to verify before I cut. Thanks in
advance for any help.
Tripp Myrick
RV-8 80085
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JD Newsum <jdnewsum(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: electrical connectors/THANKS |
Try connectors under the type D-Sub or D-Subminiature
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> THANKS,
> I found Digitkeys webpage, but does any one know what the correct terminology
> for the Computer type printer cable connector with 15 pins in 2 row thingy?
> scott
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gasket Sealant |
>
>Listers:
>
>Guess I should have been more detailed in my original message .... I am
>speaking about cork gaskets on the rocker panels on the engine .
Spend the money to get a set of the red silicone gaskets (Sorry, I don't
remember their proper name). They will last forever, never need sealant,
allow you to remove and replace your rocker covers a zillion times with out
any sticking. The product used is the same product that I use in my bakery.
These are liners that go into my baking pans and allow me to bake
croissants and bread at 400 degrees with no sticking. They are guaranteed
to last through several thousand hours at this temperature. Ask your
friendly A & P.
Louis
Louis I. Willig
larywil(at)home.com
RV-4, N180PF, 115 hrs. and climbing fast
I0-360, Hartzell C/S
(610) 668-4964
Penn Valley, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: shipping engines |
Thomas Velvick wrote:
>
>
> I am getting ready to ship a Lycoming engine from Phoenix, AZ to
> Mass. Roadway wants $760 to ship it. I wonder if anyone out there knows
> of a cheaper carrier or better way to ship an engine.
>
> Regards,
> Tom Velvick
> Peoria, AZ
>
I don't have personal experience, but several people have
said that in certain circumstances, the overnight air
freight companies can actually be cheaper than ground
freight. Try the archives.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Aileron pushrod lengths |
My drawings was delivered to me from Van's in October 2000. All the numbers
you mentioned are correct. The latest revisions for the pushrod lenghths
have not been modified since '97.
I do however have 9 revisions on this drawing. Rev 5-9 are all from
sometimes in '99. If you need to know what these are, you can write the list
again so I can post them here for archive purposes.
Are
RV-8 Wings
www.ontariorvators.org VAF-OW
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tripp Myrick
Sent: June 18, 2001 10:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: Aileron pushrod lengths
Listers,
I am getting ready to cut my aileron pushrod tubes and want to verify the
correct lengths before I cut. Maybe someone with newer plans than 1996
could verify this for me. This is on RV-8 Dwg 15. The latest revision is
from the Dec 97 RVator and says the W-816 length is 69 3/8" end-to-end and
72 11/16" C/L to C/L. Is this correct or have there been any newer
revisions? Also the W-818 is shown to be 23 13/16" end-to-end and 27 5/8"
C/L to C/L. Is this correct? I don't believe that all the revisions are
being published and made available to builders and since I have made several
errors because of older plans I want to verify before I cut. Thanks in
advance for any help.
Tripp Myrick
RV-8 80085
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Schlosser" <kevinschlosser(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electrical connectors/THANKS |
AMP D-Sub DB-15 Male or Female depending on what you need.
You can also refer to it as an IBM joystick or game controller plug.
If you are using it for a wiring harness for a GPS, etc... be sure to order shielded
headshells and screws for it too.
-< PropellerHead >-
----- Original Message -----
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2001 8:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: electrical connectors/THANKS
THANKS,
I found Digitkeys webpage, but does any one know what the correct terminology
for the Computer type printer cable connector with 15 pins in 2 row thingy?
scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: proseal question |
In a message dated 6/17/01 3:43:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
writes:
<< . Now it is almost impossible to make a dent it although it is NOT "rock
hard."
Question: Should this goo be hard as metal? >>
My understanding and my observation is that Pro Seal and it's equivalents are
rubber like compounds when cured (sort of like tire rubber). They will never
get "as hard as metal." When fully cured it is resilient to a thumb nail
(the dent won't stay). Hope this is correct because that's the way all my
tank sealant has cured.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Getting Started |
In a message dated 6/18/01 6:11:33 AM Pacific Daylight Time, JTAnon(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Is there any reason why I should not start with the rudder before the
horizontal stab? >>
IMHO you would be wise to stick to the instruction manual and recommended
build sequence at this stage. I found the rudder to be more difficult, but
of course that was six years ago on a non-predrilled slow build -6.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ClecoToo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 a "trainer" - that hurts!--Springer |
Well, nasty or not Mr. Springer, if the shoe fits wear it, you seem to be the
kind of person who likes to make others feel bad about themselves, make light
of others choices so you can make yourself feel superior at others expense. I
think your posts on this subject are clear. You are a bully and like all
bullies when they get called on it they run to momma or in this case crying
to the list with the "I was only kidding around or jesting or ribbing" or
whatever--rib your buddy if you want, like I told you, I am not your buddy,
and I do not think we would get along well at all. In fact I know we would
not. No tolerance here for bullies or bashers. I'll be your Daisy. Do not
archive. Cleco
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: electrical connectors/THANKS |
thanks kevin
thats exactly what i was looking for
scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron pushrod lengths |
TRIPP-VANS WILL SELL EACH BUILDER ONE TIME A NEW SET OF PLANS FOR$50.00 ITS
WORTH IT -TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 a "trainer" - that hurts!--Springer |
-----Original Message-----
From: ClecoToo(at)aol.com <ClecoToo(at)aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 3:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV9 a "trainer" - that hurts!--Springer
>
>Well, nasty or not Mr. Springer, if the shoe fits wear it, you seem to be
the
>kind of person who likes to make others feel bad about themselves, make
light
>of others choices so you can make yourself feel superior at others expense.
I
>think your posts on this subject are clear. You are a bully and like all
>bullies when they get called on it they run to momma or in this case crying
>to the list with the "I was only kidding around or jesting or ribbing" or
>whatever--rib your buddy if you want, like I told you, I am not your buddy,
>and I do not think we would get along well at all. In fact I know we would
>not. No tolerance here for bullies or bashers. I'll be your Daisy. Do not
>archive. Cleco
Gentlemen, please. Many years ago in Ft. Bliss, Texas, I was a buck private
who owned an MG TD. I was proud of that car. At $90 per month pay it was at
least as much as I could afford. We rallied and hill climbed and even raced
a bit. In time appeared a hotshot who knew everything and had been a
CALIFORNIA racer. Of course he didn't own a car. His standard salutation
to me was "how's the mechanical cockroach doing". It kind of ticked me off
at first. Then I figured out that it didn't really matter very much. We do
what we do for our own good reasons and need not apologize or explain. I
didn't have a Jaguar XK120M which was what I wanted. I never wanted a
Porsche. I have had a bit of fun referring to Glasairs and Lancairs as
compost airplanes and certain wooden airplanes as berry boxes as well as
using the standard "Wichita spam can" as a mild pejorative. Yet, if the
mission required it, I would choose any of the above without hesitation.
Lets not get too exercised about this.
Relax.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: proseal question |
In a message dated 6/19/01 12:21:36 AM Eastern Daylight Time, HCRV6(at)aol.com
writes:
<< My understanding and my observation is that Pro Seal and it's equivalents
are
rubber like compounds when cured (sort of like tire rubber). They will
never
get "as hard as metal." When fully cured it is resilient to a thumb nail
(the dent won't stay). Hope this is correct because that's the way all my
tank sealant has cured.
>>
ProSeal is a polysulfide polymer I believe......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: electrical connectors/THANKS |
DB-15
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2001 7:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: electrical connectors/THANKS
THANKS,
I found Digitkeys webpage, but does any one know what the correct
terminology
for the Computer type printer cable connector with 15 pins in 2 row thingy?
scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
Reading the following post made me smile. Remember a similar exchange you
and I had way back when? Turns out we not only got along but like the same
kinda beer. For the lists info, I went to Denver on vacation. Gary picked
me up (an hour from his house) took me out to see his beautiful plane, flew
me around looking at missile silos, wouldn't take a dime for gas, and drove
me back. On the way back we were ambushed by a beer joint and proceeded to
slam back several pitchers while lying about what great pilots we are and
how easily we assemble airplanes.
It's a funny thing this internet. It's real easy to let your emotions get
the better of you, or draw a conclusion on the type of person someone is,
simply by their writing style. Keep in mind folks, none of us in here are
professional writers..Ok, I take that back. MOST of us are not. That means
things are typed that are not meant the way they sound, or you sitting at
your computer with a coffee in your hand at 5:30am read it wrong. Don't
assume you will not get along with someone based strictly on what you read
from thousands of miles away from them. Gary and I got along fine, and
believe me once upon a time we told each other off most effectively. Now,
after meeting him, I invited the Bahamas flight to stay at my house while in
Florida. I am pretty convinced that most RV guys would get along fine with
most other RV guys. We just need to keep our pilot egos in check a bit. We
are all pilots...and as such our egos take some control.
Cleco, I doubt Jerry was attacking you personally. Yes, he does tend to be
a bit gruff at times. He is a close personal friend of Van's...so his
loyalty to him shows when we say something slighting Van's Aircraft (like
why are the -4 plans so bad - hehehe, sorry I had to). I don't hold that
against him...hell, loyalty is a GOOD thing. I would bet you a beer if you
and Jerry met at a fly in and didn't know who the other was, you would get
along just fine. In any event, telling him off here hardly makes you look
good.
Bill
-4 wings
----- Original Message -----
From: <ClecoToo(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 3:30 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV9 a "trainer" - that hurts!--Springer
>
> Well, nasty or not Mr. Springer, if the shoe fits wear it, you seem to be
the
> kind of person who likes to make others feel bad about themselves, make
light
> of others choices so you can make yourself feel superior at others
expense. I
> think your posts on this subject are clear. You are a bully and like all
> bullies when they get called on it they run to momma or in this case
crying
> to the list with the "I was only kidding around or jesting or ribbing" or
> whatever--rib your buddy if you want, like I told you, I am not your
buddy,
> and I do not think we would get along well at all. In fact I know we would
> not. No tolerance here for bullies or bashers. I'll be your Daisy. Do not
> archive. Cleco
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Alex:
What is Corlar? I was planning on using Variprime over non alioded skin &
under the base/clear.
I have a Dupont book but it does not have any information on Corlar.
Don Jordan - 6A - N6DJ
Arlington, TX
*********************************
>
> In a message dated 6/16/01 2:00:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> alexpeterson(at)usjet.net writes:
>
>
>
> >
> > I'm spraying corlar on etched aluminum, and I'm having a bit of
> difficulty
> > getting a smooth surface. It is mixed with about 35% reducer, and
> seems to
> > go on nicely. After about 30 seconds, it becomes sort of a cross
> between
> > orange peel and a light wrinkle surface. I'm putting on a thin
> coat. The
> > dew point is 55F, 57%RH. The paint is brand new. The roughness
> is
> > generally covered by the color and clear coats, but it is bugging
> me.
> >
> > Any ideas?
> >
> > Alex Peterson
> > Maple Grove, MN
> > 6A
> >
> >
> >
>
> I used Corlar on my -4. Dupont Tech group said do not use reducer.
> Spray it
> on at the 2-1 mix and after it is completely dried go over with a
> scotch
> brite pad the primer will smooth out nicely for your paint job.
>
> Good Luck
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Gentlemen,
Thanks much for your advice. Many pointed out details I did not consider. I
hear your admonishment to practice, practice, practice on scrap and will do
so.
By the way ... my question concerning whether I could be flying in three
weeks was a JOKE. My goal in building is not speed of completion. My goal
is to enjoy driving every rivet, find satisfaction in completing each
component, and in general just enjoy the process.
John McDonnell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 a "trainer" - that hurts!--Springer |
In a message dated 6/19/01 12:35:51 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
ClecoToo(at)aol.com writes:
> Well, nasty or not Mr. Springer, if the shoe fits wear it, you seem to be
> the
> kind of person who likes to make others feel bad about themselves, make
> light
> of others choices so you can make yourself feel superior at others expense.
> I
> think your posts on this subject are clear. You are a bully and like all
> bullies when they get called on it they run to momma or in this case crying
> to the list with the "I was only kidding around or jesting or ribbing" or
> whatever--rib your buddy if you want, like I told you, I am not your buddy,
> and I do not think we would get along well at all. In fact I know we would
> not. No tolerance here for bullies or bashers. I'll be your Daisy. Do not
> archive. Cleco
>
>
>
Hey ClecoToo@aol.....reading your post sounds like you are the bully /
basher....nobody really gives a shit if an RV has a tailwheel or a nose
wheel, you buy build and fly what you want. It sucks to read a negative post
like yours. Your comments and opinions are welcome but keep your personal
feelings off the list.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron pushrod lengths |
It might be wise to trim them to fit after wings are on etc.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron pushrod lengths |
Tom Green, at Vans, told me the same thing. Trim to fit.
Barry Pote RV9a Wings
kempthornes wrote:
>
>
> It might be wise to trim them to fit after wings are on etc.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 a "trainer" - that hurts!--Springer |
>Well as the "Mother of all Bullies" on this list for my attempts to make
>people feel guilty enough to make a contribution to Matt to keep this list
>running I would just like to say Jerry is a pretty astute poster when it
>comes to things RV and things that irritate him. He is a very experienced
>member of both the RV and RV-List communities. I may or may not always
>agree with him but he has the right to post his comments, as do all of
>you. I consider Jerry as one of my RV friends. We have had a number of off
>list conversations in the past and he's really a great guy. Let's just
>keep things a little more civil if we can. Personally I get a kick out of
>seeing who has to get in the last word!
I have found that there is always someone in the thousands of List
subscribers who's sense of humor isn't exactly shall we say on the same
frequency as mine or others. I have also learned that a whole lot of others
take every post very personally. If we would just step back and look at the
situation in the big picture and not personalize things so much we would
probably all be better off. Also try to remember that in many cases a
posters real intent of the post can easily be misunderstood since the
medium does not lend itself to conveying a lot of emotion.
I have seen many friendships formed across the country because of the
RV-List but I always find it very disturbing when people declare their
dislike for others without ever meeting them or looking them in the eye.
Somehow it just doesn't seem right. I like to joke around a lot and a lot
of times it's taken wrong and I apologize for that. I wish I had the talent
of Eric Henson (The List Jester) for writing with such a tongue-in-cheek
style. He has given me a lot of really good laughs. I met Eric once over
Charlie Kuss's RV-8 project. (Or is that an 8A?) Anyway Eric left thinking
I was a lawyer. What does that tell you? Let's just calm down a little and
take stock in the fact that we all love ALL of the RV models with the wheel
in front or back and try a little better to get along in such a public forum.
Off the soap box. Al
PS. I am planning the most friendly fund raiser for this November with a
goal of not ticking anyone off or making anyone feel guilty about their
choice. It's going to be a real challenge for this ditto head! Stay
tuned...........
Al Mojzisik
InAir Instruments, LLC
Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI)
AOA and SO much more!
http://www.liftreserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ClecoToo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 a "trainer" - that hurts!--Meangreen |
It seems to me Meangreen I am the one that does not care if it has a
nosewheel or not as stated in my earlier post and you guys like to bash those
of us who have nose gear projects so you can feel all puffed up about your
self. Some part of you inside must be very small to fixate on such things and
choose to attack people you do not know just because they chose a trike gear
airplane. What a bunch of crap. Oh, you can shove your bloated opinion too,
do like your airplane though. Jerry said "bring it on" and I assure you that
some of you guys come up to me at a flyin after sweating blood to build
something and start ribbing a total stranger about a sissy nose gear and
other baloney--I will not be the one who politely sits there and takes it. Do
not archive. cleco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ClecoToo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 a "trainer" - that hurts!--Springer |
I tell you what Don, you want to try and "spank my ass" and it will be the
day you find a new horizon to fly over, trust me on that one. I tell you, I
think the bunch of you rather than welcoming fellow pilots as one fraternity
like to divide into little cliques. Springer is such a "God" the Yankee is
easy to fly--trike gear airplane owners deserve putdowns for their choices
and are not as "worthy" as you great tailgear guys, You are so utterly big
with yourself it is surely a compensation for something else. I was warned
this list is an ego trip for the vaunted few. Oh, yes it seems I have an
opinion you do not like--deal with it. My opinion is I am as good as you and
will not bow to your phoney pecking order. Looking forward to the day you try
to "spank my ass," you better bring Jerry and what's his name with you for
help, you will need them. I'll be your Daisy.
Lessons learned from this list---
1. Only certain people are allowed an opinion and it must be that of the
collective
2. Tailgear pilots have a right to rib and jest trikegear owners but cannot
take it back themselves without getting all snotty
3. Jerry Springers opinion is the only one that counts.
4. Anyone who is building something different from you guys is an inferior
being, including non-RV types
5. You guys have some kind off thing going on about primer, I think a few of
you have sniffed perhaps to much
6. Jerry, Meangrean and Don like to spank guys asses--I just like to kick
them.
cleco, that is my name and I will be easy to find, I will be your Daisy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 a "trainer" - that hurts!--Meangreen |
Will Rogers said, Never miss an opportunity to shut up.
Take this crap off-line amongst yourselves if you feel you have to keep
playing last word.
None of you, one side of this or the other, is doing your images any good.
It's to the point where even deleting this crap before reading is getting
old and you morons wonder why so many of the people who used to contribute
substance to this list have left...
do no archive
lucky macy
>From: ClecoToo(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV9 a "trainer" - that hurts!--Meangreen
>Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 13:26:45 EDT
>
>
>It seems to me Meangreen I am the one that does not care if it has a
>nosewheel or not as stated in my earlier post and you guys like to bash
>those
>of us who have nose gear projects so you can feel all puffed up about your
>self. Some part of you inside must be very small to fixate on such things
>and
>choose to attack people you do not know just because they chose a trike
>gear
>airplane. What a bunch of crap. Oh, you can shove your bloated opinion too,
>do like your airplane though. Jerry said "bring it on" and I assure you
>that
>some of you guys come up to me at a flyin after sweating blood to build
>something and start ribbing a total stranger about a sissy nose gear and
>other baloney--I will not be the one who politely sits there and takes it.
>Do
>not archive. cleco
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ClecoToo(at)aol.com |
At this point your apology is to hollow, Springer, it is NOT accepted. Keep
whatever you want for future reference, I have done that also, I have the
posts also where you guys are going to "spank my ass" etc for future
reference and looking forward to it I might add. cleco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 a "trainer" - that hurts!--Springer |
In a message dated 6/19/01 8:49:50 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com writes:
> Hey ClecoToo@aol.....reading your post sounds like you are the bully /
> basher....nobody really gives a shit if an RV has a tailwheel or a nose
> wheel, you buy build and fly what you want. It sucks to read a negative
post
>
> like yours. Your comments and opinions are welcome but keep your personal
> feelings off the list.
>
HA! This is getting hilarious, you were just calling me a wussy for building
a 9 a few weeks ago Mr MeanGreenRV4(at)aol.com. Maybe you should grow up too
Kevin Shannon
-9A
Apex Wa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | thought for the day..... |
As a famous philospher once stated:
"The problem with arguing with a fool is that to a bystander, it looks
like two fools arguing."
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Extra or Missing Holes |
On my 9A kit on a coupla of different parts I have had extra or missing
holes punched in them by the factory. One rudder skin had a hole missing
and 2 extra ones punched nearby. Now I note the bottom center skin had a
missing hole. It's not hard to add a hole but extra holes are a bit more of
a problem. Is this a common occurance in the pre-punched kits? I guess I
thought once the equipment was programmed with the proper hole locations,
they would all come out perfect.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
Working on fuse.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | wing/fuselage (center section) bolts |
Hey builders ...
I am finally final-bolting the wings in my RV-6A. It seems to me that each
of the AN3 bolts in my 'center section' bag from Van's is an 1/8th inch too
short. That is, just a little short, but the threads appear to be in that
wing spar, gear mount and bulkhead instead of going through the material
completely.
The remedy is obvious, just replace the AN3-15A bolts with AN3-16A and the
AN3-17A bolts with AN3-18A bolts, etc. The big 3/8 bolts in the very middle
are just fine.
I just wondered if any of the other builders out there in RV land had the
same or similar experience.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 a "trainer" - that hurts!--Springer |
Take consolidation in the fact that there are only two kinds of taildragger
pilots;
one kind has groundlooped, the other kind will groundloop !!
I am a follower of Murphy's Law and therefore an optimist....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Graham <beeb(at)teleport.com> |
I am looking for Bill Grimm, late of Santa Paula. RV N-658BG. He is the
purveyor the Cool Collar concept of additional engine cooling. Please send
me contact info for this lad. An e-mail address would be good. Thanks in
advance.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Scary Noises |
Austin,
Thank you so much for relieving the tension a little. What a great story that
made me chuckle.:>) This list has gotten very tense the last few days and we needed
some relief. Thanks and keep up the good work.
Eric Newton, Long Beach, MS
RV-6A - N57ME (reserved) (Baffles)
www.ericsrv6a.com
In a message dated Tue, 19 Jun 2001 2:33:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Austin"
<6430(at)axion.net> writes:
<>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wing/fuselage (center section) bolts |
I had the same issue. My kit didn't come with enough
bolts, so I had to buy new ones anyway. I have found
many cases where the bolts in the plans are too
short/long and some builder intervention is required.
If I recall correctly, I put washers on both sides of
the bolts as well.
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Getting real close
--- "Stephen J. Soule" wrote:
>
>
> Hey builders ...
>
> I am finally final-bolting the wings in my RV-6A. It
> seems to me that each
> of the AN3 bolts in my 'center section' bag from
> Van's is an 1/8th inch too
> short. That is, just a little short, but the threads
> appear to be in that
> wing spar, gear mount and bulkhead instead of going
> through the material
> completely.
>
> The remedy is obvious, just replace the AN3-15A
> bolts with AN3-16A and the
> AN3-17A bolts with AN3-18A bolts, etc. The big 3/8
> bolts in the very middle
> are just fine.
>
> I just wondered if any of the other builders out
> there in RV land had the
> same or similar experience.
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, VT
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Spot the hottest trends in music, movies, and more.
http://buzz.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: thought for the day..... |
It also sounds like my immature students. (He took my pencil. Make him
give it back to me or I will tell my mommy)
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> As a famous philospher once stated:
>
> "The problem with arguing with a fool is that to a bystander, it looks
> like two fools arguing."
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | wing/fuselage (center section) bolts |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: wing/fuselage (center section) bolts
Thread-Index: AcD49z/J1VaLMCmvRaek4BHNoWok7QAA1yww
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Steve,
Try using one AN960-10L thin washer under the nut, and no washer under
the head of the bolt. Washers are only necessary on the side that is
being turned to prevent galling.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen J. Soule [mailto:SSoule(at)pfclaw.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 1:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: wing/fuselage (center section) bolts
Hey builders ...
I am finally final-bolting the wings in my RV-6A. It seems to me that
each
of the AN3 bolts in my 'center section' bag from Van's is an 1/8th inch
too
short. That is, just a little short, but the threads appear to be in
that
wing spar, gear mount and bulkhead instead of going through the material
completely.
The remedy is obvious, just replace the AN3-15A bolts with AN3-16A and
the
AN3-17A bolts with AN3-18A bolts, etc. The big 3/8 bolts in the very
middle
are just fine.
I just wondered if any of the other builders out there in RV land had
the
same or similar experience.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Smokin' deal on RV6/6A wing/tail |
| From: | Scott.Fink(at)microchip.com |
06/19/2001 01:16:11 PM,
Serialize complete at 06/19/2001 01:16:11 PM
For those wannabees out there from Trade-A-Plane:
MD
RV 6/6A WING KIT, still in box. Also complete tail kit, worked on
some. $1600 OBO. 301, 565-3022 (afternoons best). MD/jy2
Note that you don't have to decide where the third wheel goes untill you
get to the fuselage, I would suggest that when you get there you ask the
listers for their opinions!
N N OOOO TTTTTTTTT !
NN N O O T !
N N N O O T !
N NN O O T
N N OOOO T !
;-)
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: jerrys apology |
Hey Cleco... lighten up, have a drink... finish your RV... it will make you a
happier person!!
Walt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wbradrich(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 a "trainer" - that hurts!--Meangreen |
Bye bye, I am done with this list.
Brad
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wing/fuselage (center section) bolts |
thats typical
van still trying to save weight.
just kidding
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Bill Shook's well writen posting |
Re: the following post. PERFECT. Best written "feel good" post in months.
Perfectly captures how I think most of us feel.
Regards,
Don Mei
p.s. Learning to fly a tailwheel airplane DID make me a better pilot. But
who cares, we're all on the same team. Friends don't let friends fly
plastic airplanes.
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV9 a "trainer" - that hurts!
I'm pretty sure I read in the newsletter that Van's intended it to be a
trainer. Wasn't that it's original purpose? They even did a direct
comparison with the 150, it's intended competition. What is wrong with
that? Doesn't mean it's not a great plane. The 150 was intended as a
trainer, the 9A walks all over that plane. I've done more spins and
hammerheads in a 150 then I can count...just be gentle. I would do the same
in the 9A without hesitation. Not aerobatic...please. If you keep a
positive G on the plane, it has no idea it's upside down. I've been upside
down in planes so non aerobatic it's funny....just keep a G on them...they
don't know the difference.
I agree with Jerry on this one...people need to stop being so thin skinned.
The original poster didn't seem offended to me. He knew when he chose the
9A that it wasn't going to be a 7. It gives up some things, has some
definite advantages as well and builds a lot easier. Not a bad trade. I
chose the 4, even though I could have gone prepunched with the 8 and had
some actual decent plans. Believe me I've paid some price for that .... but
all in all I'm happy with my choice. No, I don't get offended when people
call the 4 old school...that is what it is. It fits me, so I'm building
one. I wanted the most aerobatic, stout, tandem placed plane that Van's
had....after telling them that they said buy the 4 without hesitation. You
pays your money and you gets what you pay for. The 4 cost me thousands less
than an 8...and I got a kit that's merely a century behind the 8 in
development with no intent on improving it. They warned me...I think it's
crap and had no idea they meant the plans are this bad, but they did warn
me. The parts are fine, but the manual and plans fall way short of what a
professional engineer would consider horrible. They warned me....sorta. In
any event, I bull forward.....it will be a plane one day.
So what does this all mean? Well, one day I'll have my old school Van's
plane in the air, and I'll meet up with the original poster at a fly in
somewhere. I'll buy him a beer, he'll buy me a beer and we'll do a drag
race as we take off. I'll have more horsepower, he'll have more
wing...we'll clear the ground in roughly the same time arguing back and
forth as to which actually left earth quicker. Neither of us will really
care. I'll climb better with my constant speed but pull the power sooner
because my lycosaur and prop cost too much. He will have his hand on his
wife's thigh...while I can't even see mine. All in all, we'll both be
grinning like high school boys the day after prom night. The only
discernable differences will be when our flight paths diverge. I'll roll
right and bank left...and he'll smile knowing I spent three times as long
building that plane just so that I could do that. Oh, and we will both
smirk about how glad we are we're not in the 4 seater family sedan we saw
parked all by itself in the grass. ;-)
Lighten up gents...we're all in this for fun.
Bill
*****************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing/fuselage (center section) bolts |
I think it happens with some frequency to everyone. I know I had to
"substitute" slightly shorter or longer bolts on many occasions. IMHO the
easiest, cheapest, and most likely to keep you sane answer is to buy the AN
nut and bolt kit from Aircraft Spruce, (or anyone else) get a storage box
with little slide-out drawers, label them all, and smile the next time a
"called-out" bolt isn't quite right. Then put the ones from that weren't
right back in the drawers for next time.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)micron.net
> I am finally final-bolting the wings in my RV-6A. It seems to me that each
> of the AN3 bolts in my 'center section' bag from Van's is an 1/8th inch
too
> short. That is, just a little short, but the threads appear to be in that
> wing spar, gear mount and bulkhead instead of going through the material
> completely.
>
> The remedy is obvious, just replace the AN3-15A bolts with AN3-16A and the
> AN3-17A bolts with AN3-18A bolts, etc. The big 3/8 bolts in the very
middle
> are just fine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Scary Noises |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net>
Subject: RV-List: Scary Noises
>...I was made to recall an event which nearly made me change my pants when
I was flying my 6...
In flying and racing, a "moment" is not a moment unless it is accompanied by
a "movement"...
E. Buck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
Maybe I wasn't clear. The bolt that broke was the bolt that holds the
aluminum casting that the tailwheel swivel is on to the steel tailwheel
spring that extends from the rear fuse. My tailwheel is an aviaiton
products full swivel tailwheel. An aluminum casting slips over the rod and
is secured by one bolt. That is what broke.
Don Mei
Where is this "bolt" in the tail wheel assembly that you and JVanLaak
report as broken? My springs are attached to the tail wheel steering
horn and to the rudder horn by chain links. The bolt that fits into the
rudder horn is a 3/16 with a cotter pin and is free to turn/swivel
inside the hole with very little friction and is under very little tension.
Is this perhaps the older style tail wheel with the "hook" into the tail
wheel swivel was curved rather than the newer right-angle zerk-fitted
tail wheel fork?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kyle Clark <kyle_clark(at)rocketmail.com> |
Does anybody have a set of the King school private
pilot tapes or DVD's they would be willing to part
with?
Thanks,
Kyle Clark
Student Pilot & RV7 dreamer
Spot the hottest trends in music, movies, and more.
http://buzz.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Extra or Missing Holes |
There were a few holes in the main spar that were off by a 1/32th or so
with the skins. Vans said that it was the result of a 2 pass system to
do the spars (spar was too long for the machine). I think I found one
hole extra, but as I reflect, it may have turned out to be the tiedown
hole, that needed enlarging. This is a beautiful kit!
What I am about to say, I suggest you take with a grain of salt, until
you talk to someone at Vans; At Sun N Fun several Van's employees
offered up that many people are choosing (on the NINE) to not match
drill. Just dimple the parts (the hole gets bigger anyhow, when you
dimple). That saves a lot of drilling and deburring. I have tried it a
number of times since Sun N Fun, and can tell no difference. I asked
Van (himself) what he thought about the practice, and he gave (what I
think) was Van's conservative approach, but he didn't say, "Don't do
it".
I would be interested to hear from others on this.
Barry Pote RV9a Wings (almost done)
One rudder skin had a hole missing
> and 2 extra ones punched nearby. Now I note the bottom center skin had a
> missing hole. It's not hard to add a hole but extra holes are a bit more of
> a problem. Is this a common occurance in the pre-punched kits?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
> What is Corlar? I was planning on using Variprime over non alioded skin &
> under the base/clear.
>
> I have a Dupont book but it does not have any information on Corlar.
> Don Jordan - 6A - N6DJ
> Arlington, TX
>
Hi Don, Corlar is Dupont's epoxy primer. Occasionally, people will
(incorrectly) call Veriprime epoxy primer. Corlar is the recommended primer
under Imron, and their technical folks told me it is best under their
Chromasystem base/clear on aluminum. Their base/clear literature doesn't
cover Corlar, because it is from a different (fleet/aviation) department.
Alex Peterson
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail wheel spring problems |
This is an interesting thread to add to the rudder pedal breakage. Mr.
van Laak's bolt broke at the near (proximal) end of the tail wheel
spring and he determined it was undersized. Mr. Mei's bolt broke at the
far (distal) end of the tail wheel spring, which was only held by one
bolt. On my -6 and just about all others I can remember seeing there
should be two (2) bolts thru the tail wheel spring attaching to the tail
wheel swivel fork/bracket--correct me if I'm wrong, but, please don't
Cleco me.
Any comments from others on how their tail wheel spring/tail wheel
swivel is attached???
Boyd Braem
RV-Super 6 (95# on the tailwheel in 3-point position)
Just installed Terry Jantzi's TailWheel Steering Link--a thing of
beauty!
Donald Mei wrote:
>
>
> Maybe I wasn't clear. The bolt that broke was the bolt that holds the
> aluminum casting that the tailwheel swivel is on to the steel tailwheel
> spring that extends from the rear fuse. My tailwheel is an aviaiton
> products full swivel tailwheel. An aluminum casting slips over the rod and
> is secured by one bolt. That is what broke.
>
> Don Mei
>
>
> Where is this "bolt" in the tail wheel assembly that you and JVanLaak
> report as broken? My springs are attached to the tail wheel steering
> horn and to the rudder horn by chain links. The bolt that fits into the
> rudder horn is a 3/16 with a cotter pin and is free to turn/swivel
> inside the hole with very little friction and is under very little tension.
>
> Is this perhaps the older style tail wheel with the "hook" into the tail
> wheel swivel was curved rather than the newer right-angle zerk-fitted
> tail wheel fork?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | RV 9A "Trainer" that hurts |
To all those on the list that are dedicated to flying and show a bit of
professionalism on the side:
Over the years my time is split more or less equally between
taildraggers and tri-gear. One is as easy as the other to fly with a
proper check out and a bit of experience.
The decision for me was never based on ease of handling but rather on
what is it going to be used for. Going into unpaved strips with
possible soft spots or gravel the tail dragger is the best choice or if
putting it on skis is a requirement. If it is flown from pavement or
good improved grass or dirt strips either one is a good choice.
There have been times when flying a taildragger that I had wished it was
a tri-gear like when parking a P-51 in a tight corner.
Over the years the thought never occurred to me that anyone would care
what I was flying when taxiing on to the ramp wheather it was a C 140 ,
185, DC 3, or my P51 - C 152, Navion, Twin Bonanza or what have you. In
fact it was irrelevant because each one was chosen to do a specific
job.
In the case of the RV's it is still the same the choice is up to the
individual and each person has a specific reason for which one he
chooses. A pilot's skills can not be judged by the type of aircraft he
fly's. The other day I met a fellow flying a C182 for fun and it turned
out he fly's a B 747 for a living.
Lets just give credit to Van for giving us such a wide choice of top
notch aircraft at a price the a lot of us can afford.
I am sure that the person that started this thread did so with good
intentions but as has happened in the past for some reason it triggers
a barrage that sure doesn't do much for the quality of the list.
I usually don't get involved in this sort of discussion and by doing so
may be just adding more to a thread that is already far to long. For me
flying is still as great for me as it was fifty years ago and it hurts
to see a bit of the gloss taken away from it by discussions like this.
Respectfully
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Extra or Missing Holes |
I have thought of this myself but not done it. I have so far drilled and
deburred every single hole. I think I will continue with this since I
noticed that for instance stamped lightening holes needs to be deburred. I
don't see any reason why the small holes wouldn't be just as 'rough' as the
lightening holes although we might not see it. I don't think the 9 (or the
7) is different from the 8 since I would think the pre-punching is performed
with the same CNC equipment.
Come to think of it, sometimes the drilling of the PP'ed holes gives some
latitude to make small adjustments when needed.
Just my opinion of course (I can see this easily turn into another
controversial thread!),
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of barry pote
Sent: June 19, 2001 6:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Extra or Missing Holes
There were a few holes in the main spar that were off by a 1/32th or so
with the skins. Vans said that it was the result of a 2 pass system to
do the spars (spar was too long for the machine). I think I found one
hole extra, but as I reflect, it may have turned out to be the tiedown
hole, that needed enlarging. This is a beautiful kit!
What I am about to say, I suggest you take with a grain of salt, until
you talk to someone at Vans; At Sun N Fun several Van's employees
offered up that many people are choosing (on the NINE) to not match
drill. Just dimple the parts (the hole gets bigger anyhow, when you
dimple). That saves a lot of drilling and deburring. I have tried it a
number of times since Sun N Fun, and can tell no difference. I asked
Van (himself) what he thought about the practice, and he gave (what I
think) was Van's conservative approach, but he didn't say, "Don't do
it".
I would be interested to hear from others on this.
Barry Pote RV9a Wings (almost done)
One rudder skin had a hole missing
> and 2 extra ones punched nearby. Now I note the bottom center skin had a
> missing hole. It's not hard to add a hole but extra holes are a bit more
of
> a problem. Is this a common occurance in the pre-punched kits?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Way back years ago, when learning to fly in a Cessna 140, my first takeoff
was interesting to say the least. Then after a couple lessons, little ole
N89867, my instructor and I were on the active, when he said, "welllll Jack
you sure we are ready to go", now overconfident, I replied, " you bet! I
advanced the power, and about 2 minutes later we were finally up to about 40
knots and the loudest banging and clanging scared the bijesus out of me. I
elected to abort, caused a United to go around and about ran off the runway
as I got on the binders. You guessed it......The 140 had 1 lap belt for us
both, and my half was hanging outside my door.
Live and learn...or is it...Learn and live!
Jack
DSM
RV8, tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Bill Shook's well writen posting |
>He will have his hand on his wife's thigh...while I can't even see mine.
Keep an eye on them RV9A guys, Bill. He might have his hand on *your*
wife's thigh too!
--
Scott (fellow old-school RV-4 builder) VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Adminstrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
"Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant,
for those who foolishly think that somehow they
can achieve success without paying the price."
-----Original Message-----
From: Donald Mei [mailto:don_mei(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 2:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: Bill Shook's well writen posting
Re: the following post. PERFECT. Best written "feel good" post in months.
Perfectly captures how I think most of us feel.
Regards,
Don Mei
p.s. Learning to fly a tailwheel airplane DID make me a better pilot. But
who cares, we're all on the same team. Friends don't let friends fly
plastic airplanes.
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV9 a "trainer" - that hurts!
I'm pretty sure I read in the newsletter that Van's intended it to be a
trainer. Wasn't that it's original purpose? They even did a direct
comparison with the 150, it's intended competition. What is wrong with
that? Doesn't mean it's not a great plane. The 150 was intended as a
trainer, the 9A walks all over that plane. I've done more spins and
hammerheads in a 150 then I can count...just be gentle. I would do the same
in the 9A without hesitation. Not aerobatic...please. If you keep a
positive G on the plane, it has no idea it's upside down. I've been upside
down in planes so non aerobatic it's funny....just keep a G on them...they
don't know the difference.
I agree with Jerry on this one...people need to stop being so thin skinned.
The original poster didn't seem offended to me. He knew when he chose the
9A that it wasn't going to be a 7. It gives up some things, has some
definite advantages as well and builds a lot easier. Not a bad trade. I
chose the 4, even though I could have gone prepunched with the 8 and had
some actual decent plans. Believe me I've paid some price for that .... but
all in all I'm happy with my choice. No, I don't get offended when people
call the 4 old school...that is what it is. It fits me, so I'm building
one. I wanted the most aerobatic, stout, tandem placed plane that Van's
had....after telling them that they said buy the 4 without hesitation. You
pays your money and you gets what you pay for. The 4 cost me thousands less
than an 8...and I got a kit that's merely a century behind the 8 in
development with no intent on improving it. They warned me...I think it's
crap and had no idea they meant the plans are this bad, but they did warn
me. The parts are fine, but the manual and plans fall way short of what a
professional engineer would consider horrible. They warned me....sorta. In
any event, I bull forward.....it will be a plane one day.
So what does this all mean? Well, one day I'll have my old school Van's
plane in the air, and I'll meet up with the original poster at a fly in
somewhere. I'll buy him a beer, he'll buy me a beer and we'll do a drag
race as we take off. I'll have more horsepower, he'll have more
wing...we'll clear the ground in roughly the same time arguing back and
forth as to which actually left earth quicker. Neither of us will really
care. I'll climb better with my constant speed but pull the power sooner
because my lycosaur and prop cost too much. He will have his hand on his
wife's thigh...while I can't even see mine. All in all, we'll both be
grinning like high school boys the day after prom night. The only
discernable differences will be when our flight paths diverge. I'll roll
right and bank left...and he'll smile knowing I spent three times as long
building that plane just so that I could do that. Oh, and we will both
smirk about how glad we are we're not in the 4 seater family sedan we saw
parked all by itself in the grass. ;-)
Lighten up gents...we're all in this for fun.
Bill
*****************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
"BSILVER05(at)aol.com" ,
Arthur Glaser
My rv-4 canopy cracked during construction.
I spoke to Todd at Todd's Canopies and arranged to send him my old one
as a model.
The new canopy is beautiful. The fit is great and the optics appear
better than the original (perfect). It also seems a little thicker and
stiffer than the original and therefore was much easier to handle and
cut.
If you are an extra tall pilot, he is willing to make height
modifications and will work with you in any reasonable manner.
Dealing with him has been a pleasure. His prices are excellent at $450
shipped for the clear canopy. He also states on his web site that he
will replace a canopy if it cracks during installation which shows he
has confidence in his materials and procedures.
He has a web site at www.kgarden.com/todd/ His phone is 954-579-0874
Art Glaser
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
I watched helplessly while a friend dragged a 20+ lb concrete tie down block
down the run way and up in the air in a Navion (he untied the wing blocks,
but missed the tail). He made a fairly quick trip down wind and landed; the
only damages were some minor dents in the lower empennage area, a severely
bent tied down bolt, and a totally crushed ego... (names/dates/etc..
with-held for obvious reasons).
----- Original Message -----
From: Jack Textor <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 6:00 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Scary Noises
>
> Way back years ago, when learning to fly in a Cessna 140, my first takeoff
> was interesting to say the least. Then after a couple lessons, little ole
> N89867, my instructor and I were on the active, when he said, "welllll
Jack
> you sure we are ready to go", now overconfident, I replied, " you bet! I
> advanced the power, and about 2 minutes later we were finally up to about
40
> knots and the loudest banging and clanging scared the bijesus out of me.
I
> elected to abort, caused a United to go around and about ran off the
runway
> as I got on the binders. You guessed it......The 140 had 1 lap belt for
us
> both, and my half was hanging outside my door.
> Live and learn...or is it...Learn and live!
> Jack
> DSM
> RV8, tanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVanLaak(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Tailwheel and rudder pedal problems |
Let me clarify the description of my problems one more time.
The tailwheel bolt that failed was the one at the front of the spring where
it is anchored in the fuselage. There is a weldment that conects the rear
two bulkheads, and this bolt goes vertically through that and the spring. I
would guess that the spring and weldment are delivered with pilot holes
(again, I did not build the plane) and somehow the builder put in an AN3
instead of an AN4.
The rudder pedal broke essentially cleanly off the torque tube by tearing the
weld out at the edge of the heat affected zone in the torque tube. I doubt
the sevice bulletin would have been sufficient to have prevented this
failure. I probably pushed hard, but at 175 lbs I am not unusually strong of
leg.
After reattaching the pedal, I welded small (1 inch) trapezoidal gussets to
both the front and back of each rudder pedal vertical member where it
attaches to the torque tube. This spreads out the load over a greater area,
increases the beam depth where the load is attached to the tube, and stress
relieves the metal (acetylene welding). I cannot quantify the increase in
strength, but I am certain it will take substantially more load than the
original configuration.
And I should note that my plane is set up to solo from the right, so when
this left pedal failed it was reacting the whole force through this welded
area. The "outside" pedals have the rudder cables attached, so when you push
hard on them the load is shared between the torque tube and the rudder cable.
If I had it to do over again I would probably increase the size of the
gusset for the "inside" pedals as further insurance.
Brings up the question of whether the service bulletin calls out the inner
pedals or all of the pedals. All pedals are not created equal in this case.
So you tandem folks are one up on this one.
Jim Van Laak
N1KJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVanLaak(at)aol.com |
In 30 years of flying I have heard lots of scary noises, and they always get
my heart pumping. One of the silliest is the following.
As I was climbing through 7000 in our Cherokee Arrow (compromises must be
made until Vans makes a 4 seater), there was a loud bang. I was IFR at the
time and instantly reduced power, selected nearest airports on the GPS, and
scanned the guages. Everything seemed OK so I increased the search to
include the whole cabin. The back seat was covered with Lays potatoe chips
from the bag exploding. I always knew those greasy chips were not good for
the heart. Silliest part is it happened again a couple years later and my
reaction was exactly the same. Now I eat mostly Baked Lays, and I puncture
the bag before takeoff.
Jim
N1KJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Getting started |
JTAnon(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> Thanks much for your advice. Many pointed out details I did not consider. I
> hear your admonishment to practice, practice, practice on scrap and will do
> so.
>
> By the way ... my question concerning whether I could be flying in three
> weeks was a JOKE. My goal in building is not speed of completion. My goal
> is to enjoy driving every rivet, find satisfaction in completing each
> component, and in general just enjoy the process.
>
> John McDonnell
>
John the "find satisfaction in completing each component" is a very healthy
attitude to have while building. If you look at the whole project it can
almost be overwhelming. I found the best thing for me was to look at the
completion of each component as a victory and also tried to always make a
little bit of headway each time I worked on my RV-6. One day I looked around
and realized that there was not anything left to do but fly it. :)
Jerry S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald R. Eaves" <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com> |
On the 3rd flight of my RV6 after turning crosswind and announcing I was
departing the pattern to the west.
Something grabbed my right shoulder and pinned me to the back of the seat!
My first thought was -
"GOD had his hand on my shoulder and was about to tell me it was My Turn!"
Then I saw my shoulder harness had caught on the corner of the seat back.
After getting it unhooked, I debated telling approach - Sorry for poking my
nose in to class B -
God grabbed my shoulder to tell me it was my turn and I pulled back on the
stick. But as soon as he got a good look at my crooked RV grin and said:
"Sorry Son I thought you were flying a Glass Air!"
I knew they would never believe it.
Lighten Up Boys - Life Is Short!
Enjoy that RV whatever number it is!
Don Eaves
RV6 Still Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Flap dimpling and riveting |
I'm just about to rivet my flaps and found one hole I can't get at to dimple
or buck. The hole is on the top flap skin, trailing edge, on the most
inboard rib. This hole is almost all the way back into the trailing edge
bend.
The same goes for the outboard rib, but I can reach this since it's almost
flush with the skin.
Did all of you put a pop rivet in this location? Any advice would be
appreciated.
Are
RV-8 Wings
www.ontariorvators.org VAF-OW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd W. Rudberg" <todd_rudberg(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap dimpling and riveting |
Pop rivet. So does Van's. Look at the RV7. That one is particularly tough
bc it is way back in there.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 3:55 AM
Subject: RV-List: Flap dimpling and riveting
>
> I'm just about to rivet my flaps and found one hole I can't get at to
dimple
> or buck. The hole is on the top flap skin, trailing edge, on the most
> inboard rib. This hole is almost all the way back into the trailing edge
> bend.
> The same goes for the outboard rib, but I can reach this since it's almost
> flush with the skin.
>
> Did all of you put a pop rivet in this location? Any advice would be
> appreciated.
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
> www.ontariorvators.org VAF-OW
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Mosher" <tgmosher(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap dimpling and riveting |
Pop rivet? Try a cherry lock - remember, equivalent or better.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 9:55 PM
Subject: RV-List: Flap dimpling and riveting
>
> I'm just about to rivet my flaps and found one hole I can't get at to
dimple
> or buck. The hole is on the top flap skin, trailing edge, on the most
> inboard rib. This hole is almost all the way back into the trailing edge
> bend.
> The same goes for the outboard rib, but I can reach this since it's almost
> flush with the skin.
>
> Did all of you put a pop rivet in this location? Any advice would be
> appreciated.
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
> www.ontariorvators.org VAF-OW
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | RV9 a "trainer" - that hurts!--Springer |
I'm wondering if the Faa allows pilots who require large amounts of Prozac
to hold a current medical ??
Steven DiNieri
Niagara Falls, New York
RV-6A, P28A-160
Well, nasty or not Mr. Springer, if the shoe fits wear it, you seem to be
the
kind of person who likes to make others feel bad about themselves, make
light
of others choices so you can make yourself feel superior at others expense.
I
think your posts on this subject are clear. You are a bully and like all
bullies when they get called on it they run to momma or in this case crying
to the list with the "I was only kidding around or jesting or ribbing" or
whatever--rib your buddy if you want, like I told you, I am not your buddy,
and I do not think we would get along well at all. In fact I know we would
not. No tolerance here for bullies or bashers. I'll be your Daisy. Do not
archive. Cleco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: thought for the day..... |
>As a famous philospher once stated:
>"The problem with arguing with a fool is that to a bystander, it looks
>like two fools arguing."
>Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
Well put Sam,
Amen to that!
Bob McC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tail wheel spring problems |
In a message dated 6/19/01 3:51:23 PM Pacific Daylight Time, bcbraem(at)home.com
writes:
<< Any comments from others on how their tail wheel spring/tail wheel swivel
is attached??? >
My RV-6 tail wheel spring (1998 fuselage kit) has one AN4 bolt at the forward
end and two AN3s where the aluminum swivel casting attaches to the spring.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: thought for the day..... |
In a message dated 6/19/01 9:37:31 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< How about this one Never argue with a fool because he (she) will drag you
down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Tom >>
Or, "There can be a fine line between 'hobby' and mental illness."
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | deltaB(at)erols.com |
| Subject: | Re: Scary Noises |
Me too.
Returning from Ocean City Md. Takeoff power, clanging noise,
reduced power. It went away. I could tell it was on the left
side. A lot like a really out of balance or out of round
wheel, but louder. And it wasn't like that when I left home.
I looked left, the tire was still there so I tried again. The
noise came back, reduced power. I then realized that the tail
end of the seatbelt was outside the door. Opened the door
(Spam can), and retrieved the belt end. At this point about
half the runway was behind me. Finally my short field
training paid off. Ten flaps and Vx before the opposing
raised approach lights, piece of cake. Now the "seatbelts
fastened" part of the pre-takeoff checklist has more
significance.
Bernie C.
Jack Textor wrote:
>
>
> Way back years ago, when learning to fly in a Cessna 140, my first takeoff
> was interesting to say the least. Then after a couple lessons, little ole
> N89867, my instructor and I were on the active, when he said, "welllll Jack
> you sure we are ready to go", now overconfident, I replied, " you bet! I
> advanced the power, and about 2 minutes later we were finally up to about 40
> knots and the loudest banging and clanging scared the bijesus out of me. I
> elected to abort, caused a United to go around and about ran off the runway
> as I got on the binders. You guessed it......The 140 had 1 lap belt for us
> both, and my half was hanging outside my door.
> Live and learn...or is it...Learn and live!
> Jack
> DSM
> RV8, tanks
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Meketa" <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | King Glideslope Indicator |
Hello Yall
A friend is installing an autopilot and needs to know which pins are the
LEFT RIGHT
STEER inputs to a King KI-209 VOR/Localizer indicator. There are 12 pins and
it is much easier to tie in at the indicator than to access the terminals at
the NAV radio. Any help would be appreciated.
George Meketa
RV8 installing canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
>
> I'm wondering if the Faa allows pilots who require large amounts of Prozac
> to hold a current medical ??
>
HAHAA.....oh man...I laughed straight out at this one. Geeze, what a
wonderful sense of humor some of this list have. This list enjoys some of
the best senses of humor I've seen in a long time. It's funny, as with
anything there are also the polar opposites in here as well. Those so
devoid of any sense of humor as to take complete offense from any comment
made, even one not directed at them..... Ah yes, where would the world be
without the moon to offset the sun, the lottery to offset the IRS, the
glasair to pale in comparison to the RV, and the clecos to offset the
Stevens and the Steve Judds, and the Austins, and the Denis Walshs and even
the jarheaded Eric Henson types......where would we be indeed without one
humorless guy to make us appreciate the trully gifted humorous guys in here.
Today has been a very exciting day on the RV list. We've got people
bouncing off of all the rafters, and dozens of do-gooders trying to diffuse
the bomb (myself included). It's been a fun ride, and I thank you all very
much. I have laughed more today at emails than I have in a long time. It
seems, the worst on this list always brings out the best to offset them.
Hey, I love the occasional conflict in here...call it a pissing contest or a
b*tch slapping of the more anal retentive types....either way...it shows the
rest of us who the really nice guys are, as well as those with a wonderful
sense of humor. Will I poke fun at the nose draggers in here from time to
time...you bet I will. Hell, I sat there in Gary Zilik's wonderful plane
and straight faced made fun of the training wheel hanging off the front.
Did he get upset? Nah, he smiled (like a real man) and made fun of me right
back. That is good natured ribbing...and it's what friendly types do from
time to time. He even let me fly his beautiful bird (I'm not kidding
folks..he did a really NICE job), I found it to be a truly impressive piece
of work, we discussed the drawbacks of both gear configs and slapped each
other on the back for being the genius' we are. Afterwards we laughed over
lots of beer at the asses we had been only months before while telling each
other off on this list.
I've seen an apology come across here from Jerry (for no reason) in the
hopes that this conflict would be diffused at the source. The response was
less than gentleman like......but damned funny. I can't help it...I laugh
at clowns in the circus too. Prozac? Hahaha...oh man...that is funny.
Come on guys...you know it is. All hail those that make us laugh.....if
only I laughed this much every day.
Bill
laughing myself to sleep
>
> Steven DiNieri
> Niagara Falls, New York
> RV-6A, P28A-160
>
>
> Well, nasty or not Mr. Springer, if the shoe fits wear it, you seem to be
> the
> kind of person who likes to make others feel bad about themselves, make
> light
> of others choices so you can make yourself feel superior at others
expense.
> I
> think your posts on this subject are clear. You are a bully and like all
> bullies when they get called on it they run to momma or in this case
crying
> to the list with the "I was only kidding around or jesting or ribbing" or
> whatever--rib your buddy if you want, like I told you, I am not your
buddy,
> and I do not think we would get along well at all. In fact I know we would
> not. No tolerance here for bullies or bashers. I'll be your Daisy. Do not
> archive. Cleco
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd W. Rudberg" <todd_rudberg(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap dimpling and riveting |
Sorry...MK319BS is equivalent to 3/32" AN426AD. This Monel "pop" rivet will
be fine and stronger.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thomas Mosher" <tgmosher(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 4:41 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap dimpling and riveting
>
> Pop rivet? Try a cherry lock - remember, equivalent or better.
>
> Tom
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 9:55 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Flap dimpling and riveting
>
>
> >
> > I'm just about to rivet my flaps and found one hole I can't get at to
> dimple
> > or buck. The hole is on the top flap skin, trailing edge, on the most
> > inboard rib. This hole is almost all the way back into the trailing edge
> > bend.
> > The same goes for the outboard rib, but I can reach this since it's
almost
> > flush with the skin.
> >
> > Did all of you put a pop rivet in this location? Any advice would be
> > appreciated.
> >
> > Are
> > RV-8 Wings
> > www.ontariorvators.org VAF-OW
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: bless the humor |
> I'm wondering if the Faa allows pilots who require large amounts of Prozac
> > to hold a current medical ??
>
> Prozac? Hahaha...oh man...that is funny.
> Come on guys...you know it is. All hail those that make us laugh.....if
> only I laughed this much every day.
>
>
> i think bill just answered that question.
>
> just kidding bill,
> i love you man !!
> scott
> tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: RV-List: thought for the day.....
As a famous philospher once stated:
"The problem with arguing with a fool is that to a bystander, it looks
like two fools arguing."
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
Amen, Sam.....
Sign me
Ed Winne
RV-9A (the REALLY FAST trainer with the NOSE wheel (you got a problem wid
that!?!?)
Palmyra PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | D.A.R. inspection |
Listers,
The D.A.R. (actually, a man-and-wife team here) inspected my airplane
yesterday and issued me my airworthyness certificate. Here are the things I
found most interesting.
They spent a good bit of time talking about my engine and prop combination.
I have an Aerosport 0-360 A-1-A and a rebuilt Hartzell. Neither are
"certified." When I heard them talking about it, I expected him to give me
40 hours for the phase I flight test period. However, he gave me 25 hours.
His explanation was that there are a number of RV-8's that are flying with
this engine-prop combination.
He did not like the location of my ELT antenna on the right passenger
armrest, but did not make me move it.
He was amused by my engine logbook. If you get an engine from Aerosport,
you get that big, yellow log with part numbers and stuff stapled inside.
I did not know that you can put your plane back into phase I flight testing
at any time in the future simply by making a logbook entry. This is
important if you want to do any maneuver (such as aerobatics) which was not
done during the original phase I flight test period.
He made a number of simple correction suggestions - a dangling wire here, a
loose something there, but no major squawks.
His wife picked up my wing-root intersection fairing and looked at it. I
thought the expression on her face was like somebody holding a dirty diaper.
My fiberglass skills suck.
Anyway, it's done, and N851JC has the pink paper saying it's ready to fly.
Unfortunately, I'm having to annual my C-182 at the same time, which will
delay flight for a few days - it will take me a whole day to get everything
put together and ready to fly.
Jerry Carter
Memphis, TN
My RV-8A website:
http://rv8asite.homestead.com/mainpage.html
P.S. What do I do with all these leftover parts in the box? :>)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
I'm ready to order a whole bunch of stuff for my engine installation.
I suddenly realized that perhaps I might be able to take advantage of
OSH show specials on the expensive items.
Can anyone recall whether they have seen show specials from B&C
Specialties or LightSpeed Engineering (Klaus Savier electronic
ignitions)?
Thanks,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: bless the humor |
That's it...I'm coming over there and UN-hanging your engine. Don't think I
won't.
Freaking tampa guys...you have to keep them in check sometimes. :-)
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 4:47 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: bless the humor
>
>
> > I'm wondering if the Faa allows pilots who require large amounts of
Prozac
> > > to hold a current medical ??
> >
> > Prozac? Hahaha...oh man...that is funny.
> > Come on guys...you know it is. All hail those that make us
laugh.....if
> > only I laughed this much every day.
> >
> >
> > i think bill just answered that question.
> >
> > just kidding bill,
> > i love you man !!
> > scott
> > tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | stank-1(at)webtv.net (frank stankiewicz) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 78 Msgs - 06/19/01 |
Please unsubscribe me from the rv list
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Murphy <jgmurphy(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap dimpling and riveting |
Are
Forget the dimpling at these trailing edge locations.
I used universal head rivets at the aft 2 locations on my flaps and
elevators/rudder, aint gonna make a scrap of difference. give me a well
formed uni head rivet there over a badly done flush head one. They are
only 3/32" dia, tiny little heads.
Graham Murphy
RV-6A
Blenheim
New Zealand.
Are Barstad wrote:
>
>
> I'm just about to rivet my flaps and found one hole I can't get at to dimple
> or buck. The hole is on the top flap skin, trailing edge, on the most
> inboard rib. This hole is almost all the way back into the trailing edge
> bend.
> The same goes for the outboard rib, but I can reach this since it's almost
> flush with the skin.
>
> Did all of you put a pop rivet in this location? Any advice would be
> appreciated.
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
> www.ontariorvators.org VAF-OW
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Flap dimpling and riveting |
Are,
Have you tried the Avery close quarters pop dimpler? Try it just using the
dies and tape them to duckbill pliers if you can reach with those.
Jack
DSM
RV8, tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com> |
Kevin,
I tried this exact method last month at Sun n Fun.
B&C simply refused to give me any discount for the show, and I had to come
back every day for 3 days to get a 10% discount, on the most expensive
alternator on the market. I went with the one from Niagra instead.
I did not talk to Lightspeed, since I already bought it.
Almost everybody else gives at least a 10% discount, even on the Electronics
International stuff, they give you a cupon which you take to any of their
re-sellers...
I'd definately wait on any expensive item until Oshkosh, if you can.
jim
tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 6:51 AM
Subject: RV-List: OSH deals?
I'm ready to order a whole bunch of stuff for my engine installation.
I suddenly realized that perhaps I might be able to take advantage of
OSH show specials on the expensive items.
Can anyone recall whether they have seen show specials from B&C
Specialties or LightSpeed Engineering (Klaus Savier electronic
ignitions)?
Thanks,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Barstad, Are" <BarstadA(at)bis.adp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap dimpling and riveting |
Thanks to all that replied.
It looks like I won't look like a rookie then (although I am one!) when I
show up at Oshkosh or S&F with a pop rivet in this location.
I'm not obsessed with using flush rivets everywhere but thought I'd ask
first in case there was an obvious cure. As Rick (and someone else) said;
it's silly to beat up skin and rivets just to avoid using a pop rivet.
I'll try to use the pop dimpler as Jack suggested and then use a flush pop
or cherry lock but not sure if I can reach.
Are
RV-8 Wings
www.ontariorvators.org <http://www.ontariorvators.org> VAF-OW
Are,
Have you tried the Avery close quarters pop dimpler? Try it just using the
dies and tape them to duckbill pliers if you can reach with those.
Jack
DSM
RV8, tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Eugene Fly-In Aug 25th |
If at all possible, could some one attending this event tape Tracy
Saylor's talk for me on cassette tape?
I'll pay you for the tape and postage and even reimburse you the $10 for
the lunch! How about that for a deal?
Boyd Braem
804 Longbow Trail
Osprey, FL 34229
941-966-6015
Thanks.
Ross Mickey wrote:
>
>
> The Eugene Area RV Builders Group and EAA Chapter 31 are please to announce
> the Second Annual Eugene Area Fly-In and Forum: A Fly-In with Purpose
> promoting Beauty, Speed, Efficiency, and Safety
>
> website: http://home.earthlink.net/~wallyander/flyin.html
>
> S p e c i a l G u e s t s
>
> Tracy Saylor: Maker of the worlds fastest stock 180 hp RV-6 will speak on
> how to increase the speed and efficiency of your aircraft
> Tyler Feldman: Oshkosh, Sun n' Fun & Arlington Grand Champion RV-6 builder
> will speak on the making of an award-winning aircraft.
> Len Fox: Navy Test Pilot and currently one of Vans Test Pilots will talk
> on First Flights and Flight Testing Procedures.
> Van's Aircraft: Vans Aircraft staff will bring the RV-7 and RV-9 for demo
> rides.
>
> WHERE: Eugene Municipal Airport
> Eugene, Oregon (EUG)
> South end near control tower
> Wally & Hank Anderson's Hanger
> (east of Flightcraft)
> WHEN: Saturday, August 25, 10am - 3pm
> WHAT: Lunch & Informational Forums
> COST: $10 - Includes BBQ Lunch
> (the $10 cover charge will be collected to cover the cost of lunch and to
> help defray presenters travel cost.)
>
> Ross
> N9PT
> RV-6A
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
"Rocket-List Digest (E-mail)" ,
"RV-List Digest (E-mail)"
| Subject: | oil cooler cool collar |
Subject: RV-List: Pilot Search
From: Gary Graham <beeb(at)teleport.com>
I am looking for Bill Grimm, late of Santa Paula. RV N-658BG. He is the
purveyor the Cool Collar concept of additional engine cooling. Please send
me contact info for this lad. An e-mail address would be good. Thanks in
advance.
Gary
**************************************
Gary,
I'm not sure if this is what you're looking for or not. My JC Whitney
catalog (who knew they had so many airplane parts?) has a Cool Collar listed
on page 202 of their most recent catalog which is #647J-02. The front of
the catalog has a silver Pontiac GTO (drool, slobber, covet....) on it. Or
check online at www.jcwhitney.com
The cool collar is an extruded aluminum set of fins that clamp around your
oil filter to provide additional oil cooler area. Looks very simple and
should work fine, though I've not used one. The cost is only $17.95...
practically free in airplane dollars... and the part number is 81BU4694Y.
For even better thermal conduction, you might try adding a layer of silicone
heat sink compound (get it at Radio Shack) between the cooler and the
filter. Of course, a blast tube and shroud would help too.
Wouldn't it be cool (pun intended) if you could eliminate your oil cooler
with its weight and hoses by using one of these......... I probably could
have done it on my cool running RV-4. Just thinking out loud here...
Vince Frazier
Harmon Rocket II ... the fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html <---- note: new
URL as of 5/30/01
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Stribling" <bbattery(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | rv list Prop Engine Conbination |
I was talking to a D.A.R. for my inspection and he wanted me to show him a
list of planes that have been certified with my engine prop combination for
the 25 hour fly-off. I am not sure if he was talking about production
planes or any planes so I am asking the group. If any one has a E/P combo of
a H2ad and a Sensenich Prop (70cm759-078) I would like to here from you off
list I would probable need A/C # and date of certification. Thanks in
Advance
E-Mail=== bbattery(at)bendcable.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: D.A.R. inspection |
Jerry, did they look closely at your checklists and POH for accuracy and
completeness?
Kevin -9A
Apex WA
mine's tomorrow
> Listers,
>
> The D.A.R. (actually, a man-and-wife team here) inspected my airplane
> yesterday
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Thanks for sharing your story, Jim! You're not alone, listen to this:
One day when I was working the gas pumps at the airport (offsetting the cost
of my maintenance) I got a call from Stockton Approach. They said that they
were handling an aircraft which declared an emergency and we were the
closest field. Approach wanted me to give them a call back when the
airplane had landed safely. No problem. What is the emergency I asked.
Approach said there was an explosion in the cockpit. Geez! We got the fire
extinguishers and blankets ready, called the fire department just in case,
got some blankets, etc. Well, the Cessna 210 finally showed up on final
just as the fire trucks were pulling up. The plane touched down and I
called approach back and told them the plane was down safely. They came
rolling into our ramp area with the engine shut down and all jumped out and
ran about 50 ft from the airplane. Fire crews rushed in but there was no
smoke, no fire, nothing. We asked the pilot where the explosion had taken
place. In the luggage area. We got his keys and opened up the luggage
compartment... you guessed it, a huge bag of potato chips had given up the
ghost! It was all I could do to keep from laughing. The firemen felt no
such restrictions and were having a grand time at this poor pilot's expense!
One of our senior flight instructors helped the pilot pull the plane towards
the hangar and was being very understanding towards the guy telling him he
did the right thing (but even the CFI later had to come in and laugh his
head off for a while.) We gave him our vacuum and let him clean up his
plane. The really fun part for me was calling Stockton Approach again to
tell them the cause of the explosion. The controller was so tickled he told
everyone else there. Lots of raucous laughter in the background as the
controller thanked me for calling back.
Some days at the airport are just perfect! I know that may sound mean but
there is an old Chinese proverb that says, "Happiness is watching your
neighbor fall off his roof." Or something like that.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Adminstrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
"Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant,
for those who foolishly think that somehow they
can achieve success without paying the price."
-----Original Message-----
From: JVanLaak(at)aol.com [mailto:JVanLaak(at)aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 6:55 PM
Subject: RV-List: Scary noises
In 30 years of flying I have heard lots of scary noises, and they always get
my heart pumping. One of the silliest is the following.
As I was climbing through 7000 in our Cherokee Arrow (compromises must be
made until Vans makes a 4 seater), there was a loud bang. I was IFR at the
time and instantly reduced power, selected nearest airports on the GPS, and
scanned the guages. Everything seemed OK so I increased the search to
include the whole cabin. The back seat was covered with Lays potatoe chips
from the bag exploding. I always knew those greasy chips were not good for
the heart. Silliest part is it happened again a couple years later and my
reaction was exactly the same. Now I eat mostly Baked Lays, and I puncture
the bag before takeoff.
Jim
N1KJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV6A QB control stick installation questions |
Folks,
As I'm fitting my F633 (L&R) for drilling per dwg 40 with bearings
up...my control stick weldment WD610 contacts the F618 and F619 floor
ribs - even with the amount that they are already cut out.
Remember that this is a QB - I think that these parts should fit without
additional cutting/grinding/filing.
I see three alternatives:
1. Mount the F633(L&R) with the bearings down. This will lower the
WD610 by about 1 1/2 ". I don't think this is the correct answer since
the elevator pushrod will hit the lower skin.
2. Mount the F633(L&R) lower by removing some of the bottom of each
part. I don't think that this will provide enough to cure what ails
me...
3. Open up the F618 and F619 floor rib cutouts to fit. The plans
provided show a different cutout than what is actually provided with the
QB kit - that might be the difference.
What say ye fellow RV6 (6A, maybe 7, 7A, 9 & 9A) builders.
Ralph Capen
N822AR (rsvd) Richardson, TX
MT prop gets delivered tomorrow!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Thanks Alex:
I learn something everyday. My "Dupont" people recommend the self etching
Variprime under the base/clear.
I guess if I was asking for the Imron I would have the Corlar
recommended.
I am having a terrible time trying to decide on the colors, the scheme, &
the types of paint.
I am using a auto painter & his shop so I am having to go with the
base/clear, mainly cause they use it everyday & I haven't shot a car
since my 56 chev. back in 1966. The counter people are some help but
every once in a while you realize they don't know what they are talking
about. I offered to leave my first born to borrow there color book and
was turned down. I guess I will have to bring the wife to the store.
Don Jordan - 6A - N6DJ - dons6a(at)juno.com - Arlington, TX
*************************************************************************
***
writes:
>
>
> > What is Corlar? I was planning on using Variprime over non alioded
> skin &
> > under the base/clear.
> >
> > I have a Dupont book but it does not have any information on
> Corlar.
> > Don Jordan - 6A - N6DJ
> > Arlington, TX
> >
>
> Hi Don, Corlar is Dupont's epoxy primer. Occasionally, people will
> (incorrectly) call Veriprime epoxy primer. Corlar is the
> recommended primer
> under Imron, and their technical folks told me it is best under
> their
> Chromasystem base/clear on aluminum. Their base/clear literature
> doesn't
> cover Corlar, because it is from a different (fleet/aviation)
> department.
>
> Alex Peterson
>
>
> ------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From
> $8.99/mo! ------
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | RV6A QB control stick installation questions |
Ralph,
I ran into something similar with my slo-build RV-6A and concluded that I
needed to make a cut out that looked somewhat different than the plans and
manual depicted. I asked the folks at Van's and was told that I should make
the cutout to fit. Keep cutting and filing those floor ribs I say. If you
feel nervous, call Van's.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
RV-6A still chasing details.
-----Original Message-----
As I'm fitting my F633 (L&R) for drilling per dwg 40 with bearings
up...my control stick weldment WD610 contacts the F618 and F619 floor
ribs - even with the amount that they are already cut out.
Remember that this is a QB - I think that these parts should fit without
additional cutting/grinding/filing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: While you guys were arguing about RV-9's etc..... |
>While you guys were all bashing each other and arguing about T/W vs
>Nosewheel, an argument as pointless as whether blondes or brunettes are
>better..... (the answer is, it depends which one will let you fly the most,
>to both questions.....) I went to Wahpeton ND and flew a P-51C. WOW! What
>a machine! 61 inches of Manifold Pressure is a wonderful thing!
>
>As I said in this venue when I first flew the Corsair, It just makes me
>appreciate my RV even more.
>
>If you get to fly an RV you should consider yourself blessed. No matter
>where the extra wheel is or how long the wings are. They truely are
>marvelous machines and capture the feel of the fighters for pennies on the
>dollar of what it costs to fly with the big dogs.
>
>I know this is not RV related but they say we pilots dance to the beat of a
>different drum, I needed to tell some folks who can hear the music...
>
>Tailwinds
>Doug Rozendaal
Doug,
THANK YOU so much for snapping us out of this stupid flame war. I do,
indeed consider myself blessed for having a most groovy airplane like an RV8
to play around with. Escorting your flight of B-25's out of Double Eagle
was a great experience...although I couldn't keep up! Those Mitchells are
fast!
Having a seat in that -25 you were flying was also a treat. What a
beautiful airplane..with a massive, military brutish feel but also has the
lines and grace of an Italian sportscar. North American made some really
sweet airplanes, huh? ;)
Oh, and thanks for the chain link clip idea for my tailwheel chains. Worked
GREAT and looks ever so much better than those yucky spring clips that fail
at the worst possible time.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Albuquerque, NM
Loves ALL RV's...tailwheel or not. But those plastic airplanes? Hmmm...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <DonH(at)axonn.com> |
| Subject: | RV6A QB control stick installation questions |
I'm pretty sure the manual (yes, there is one) with my 6AQB said to trim the
cutouts to fit. That's what I did, and it took a fair amount of trimming.
I also had to trim some of the cutouts for the wing attach bolts, since they
weren't even big enough to accomodate the nuts, much less a wrench to turn
them.
It says "quick build" not "easy build" or "no trimming needed". They only
did some of the work for you, and left plenty of annoying trimming for you
to do to make sure you work for your 51%.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ralph E. Capen [mailto:recapen(at)earthlink.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 8:28 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV6A QB control stick installation questions
>
>
>
>
> Folks,
>
> As I'm fitting my F633 (L&R) for drilling per dwg 40 with bearings
> up...my control stick weldment WD610 contacts the F618 and F619 floor
> ribs - even with the amount that they are already cut out.
> Remember that this is a QB - I think that these parts should
> fit without
> additional cutting/grinding/filing.
>
> I see three alternatives:
>
> 1. Mount the F633(L&R) with the bearings down. This will lower the
> WD610 by about 1 1/2 ". I don't think this is the correct
> answer since
> the elevator pushrod will hit the lower skin.
>
> 2. Mount the F633(L&R) lower by removing some of the bottom of each
> part. I don't think that this will provide enough to cure what ails
> me...
>
> 3. Open up the F618 and F619 floor rib cutouts to fit. The plans
> provided show a different cutout than what is actually
> provided with the
> QB kit - that might be the difference.
>
> What say ye fellow RV6 (6A, maybe 7, 7A, 9 & 9A) builders.
>
> Ralph Capen
> N822AR (rsvd) Richardson, TX
> MT prop gets delivered tomorrow!
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Ran across this aerial photo of LongmontCo. Thought the list might like it.
Terry E. Cole
http://www.capnhq.gov/airfield/ViewAirport.asp?view=Thumb&state=CO&code=2V2&fi
l
http://www.capnhq.gov/airfield/ViewAirport.asp?view=Thumb&state+CO&code=2V2&fi
l
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 a "trainer" - that hurts!--Springer |
In a message dated 6/19/01 11:13:33 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Im7shannon(at)aol.com writes:
> HA! This is getting hilarious, you were just calling me a wussy for
> building
> a 9 a few weeks ago Mr MeanGreenRV4(at)aol.com. Maybe you should grow up too
> Kevin Shannon
> -9A
> Apex Wa
>
>
>
Hey Kevin you need to go back and read the post you called your self a wussy,
I used your words not mine.
PS I have absolutely positively no problem with the RV-9. Build on!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Zercher" <ez(at)sensenich.com> |
| Subject: | rv list Prop Engine Conbination |
Ken and all,
According to FAA Order 8130.2D CHG 2, section 134 (b) (3):
NOTE: The FAA requires a minimum of 25 hours of flight testing for an
aircraft with a type certified engine and propeller combination installed or
a minimum of 40 hours when a non-type certificated engine, propeller, or
engine/propeller combination is installed. Inspectors may assign longer test
hours when it is necessary to determine compliance with 91.319(b).
If the propeller and engine are type certified, which the 70CM is, and the
O-320-H2AD is, the DAR should give you a 25 hour flyoff. You will not be
able to find a production aircraft using this engine/propeller combination
because the 70CM was designed specifically for the RV series aircraft!
Unfortunately, I do not know which of our customers are using the H2AD
flavor. The only info I get from Vans' is the HP and bolt diameter.
If I can help discuss this with your DAR, I would be more then happy to.
Ed Zercher
>I was talking to a D.A.R. for my inspection and he wanted me to show him a
list of planes that have been certified with my engine prop combination for
the 25 hour fly-off. I am not sure if he was talking about production
planes or any planes so I am asking the group. If any one has a E/P combo of
a H2ad and a Sensenich Prop (70cm759-078) I would like to here from you off
list I would probable need A/C # and date of certification. Thanks in
Advance
E-Mail=== bbattery(at)bendcable.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A QB control stick installation questions |
Yep..you need open up those holes. I just used a
scotchbrite wheel on a die grinder and worked fine.
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Getting Close
--- "Ralph E. Capen" wrote:
>
>
> Folks,
>
> As I'm fitting my F633 (L&R) for drilling per dwg 40
> with bearings
> up...my control stick weldment WD610 contacts the
> F618 and F619 floor
> ribs - even with the amount that they are already
> cut out.
> Remember that this is a QB - I think that these
> parts should fit without
> additional cutting/grinding/filing.
>
> I see three alternatives:
>
> 1. Mount the F633(L&R) with the bearings down.
> This will lower the
> WD610 by about 1 1/2 ". I don't think this is the
> correct answer since
> the elevator pushrod will hit the lower skin.
>
> 2. Mount the F633(L&R) lower by removing some of
> the bottom of each
> part. I don't think that this will provide enough
> to cure what ails
> me...
>
> 3. Open up the F618 and F619 floor rib cutouts to
> fit. The plans
> provided show a different cutout than what is
> actually provided with the
> QB kit - that might be the difference.
>
> What say ye fellow RV6 (6A, maybe 7, 7A, 9 & 9A)
> builders.
>
> Ralph Capen
> N822AR (rsvd) Richardson, TX
> MT prop gets delivered tomorrow!
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | chain link clip idea |
Okay,
Fill me in on the chain link clip idea for the tail springs on the RV8.
What's it all about?
Keith--Perpetually prepping for paint. Geez, I'm ready to fly!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A QB control stick installation questions |
In a message dated 6/20/01 11:16:01 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
recapen(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< 3. Open up the F618 and F619 floor rib cutouts to fit. The plans
provided show a different cutout than what is actually provided with the
QB kit - that might be the difference. >>
Ralph,
If I remember correctly I trimmed the floor rib flanges on my QB6A to make
room for the control stick travel and then riveted a .062 angle on the
opposite side of the rib cutout to replace the remove flange. Seems like that
was in the plans somewhere or was an idea suggested in the RVator maybe?
Dale Ensing
6A project on hold waiting for hangar to be built
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A QB control stick installation questions |
Ralph, I mounted the bottom of my 633's 1/4" off the floor without alteration to
them. I had to cut out about 1/2" of the top of the floor ribs to get them
to clear. People that have "been there done that" say that's normal. I reinforced
each rib with a 4" piece of .063 angle. They seem to
be rock solid, better that before. The problem I have now is that the first outboard
seat rib from the control sticks needs to be trimmed in the bottom of the
lightning about 1/4" for the aileron push tubes to clear properly. I wouldn't
go any lower than I have described cause you'll have trouble with the push tube
clearance. Hope this helps!
Tommy Walker
6A (finishing fuselage)
Ridgetop, TN WeasekWorks
----- Original Message -----
From: Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 10:35 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV6A QB control stick installation questions
Folks,
As I'm fitting my F633 (L&R) for drilling per dwg 40 with bearings
up...my control stick weldment WD610 contacts the F618 and F619 floor
ribs - even with the amount that they are already cut out.
Remember that this is a QB - I think that these parts should fit without
additional cutting/grinding/filing.
I see three alternatives:
1. Mount the F633(L&R) with the bearings down. This will lower the
WD610 by about 1 1/2 ". I don't think this is the correct answer since
the elevator pushrod will hit the lower skin.
2. Mount the F633(L&R) lower by removing some of the bottom of each
part. I don't think that this will provide enough to cure what ails
me...
3. Open up the F618 and F619 floor rib cutouts to fit. The plans
provided show a different cutout than what is actually provided with the
QB kit - that might be the difference.
What say ye fellow RV6 (6A, maybe 7, 7A, 9 & 9A) builders.
Ralph Capen
N822AR (rsvd) Richardson, TX
MT prop gets delivered tomorrow!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6A QB control stick installation questions |
In a message dated 6/20/01 8:16:01 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
recapen(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< Open up the F618 and F619 floor rib cutouts to fit. >>
That's what I did on my definitely non-QB -6. The only QB I have seen at
that stage had the same rib cutouts as my F618/619 ribs, i.e., they had to be
cut out more also.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Longmont Fly-in |
I look forward to seeing you there.
For those not familiar with the Rocky mtn fly-in, this is a very nice event
with many planes attending. Usually lots of RV's. Van's is going to be
there, but I don't know which planes they are bringing.
Cliff
RV9A wings
Erie, CO
> Anybody coming to the Rocky Mtn Fly-in this weekend, please be sure to
come say
> hello. We'll be in the exhibit hall on the right side (as you walk in)
with most
> items from both Builder's Bookstore and eCharts.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Longmont Fly-in |
Andy,
My wife and I will stop by and say hello.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A O360-A1A/Hartzell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A QB control stick installation questions |
<>
Mine is a slow build, but I had to open the floor rib holes significantly to allow
the control weldment to clear. I would not reposition the weldment as it
may cause alignment problems for the control pushrods. Just open up the rib holes
until it clears. I used a drill mounted round wood rasp to grind away the
rib holes and once clear, I smoothed the edges with some emory cloth and re-primed.
Hope this helps,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A - N57ME (reserved) (Carb Airbox)
www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com> |
I've talked to these people several times over the past 12 months, and quite
frequently during the past4-6 months. As of 4 months ago (Feb, 2001), they
had NOT delivered their FIRST engine. Thus, none in RVs yet. This was
confirmed by talking with them face to face at Sun-n-Fun this year.
The price is actually a couple of thousand dollars MORE than a brand new one
from Vans, and they will actually tell you that they are not trying to
compete for RV business because they can't compete with Van's OEM prices on
Lycomings. It is an experimental engine, and thus you cannot sell it to
anybody else except an experimental plane builder. They are making their
own crankcase from scratch, thus it is not simply a lycoming with new
cylinders.... but it WAS copied from the lycoming crankcase, and thus uses
most Lycoming parts.
In the end, I researched this Lynosour engine thing about as much as I did
my first (and only) wife! I eventually went with a custom piece put
together by Bart at AeroSport Power. I could see NOTHING which made the
Superior XP-360 a better engine than what we already have access to: power,
reliability, 'newness', price, customization, etc. My opinion: Its not
worth you spending your time looking at this engine.
Please DO archive.
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 1:58 PM
Subject: RV-List: superior XP-360
Hello folks, can anyone tell me something good or bad about this engine?
Does
anyone have one or know of any being used in RV's or similar homebuilt
aircraft? Are the Sensenich props useable on these engines? Thank you for
the info in advance.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: superior XP-360 |
I read that they will sell the parts for customer to assemble, any idea what
the parts kit will cost?
Cliff
RV9A wings
>
> Had the opportunity the other day to examine all of the parts that go into
> this engine. When assembled it will look exactly the same as a 0360. Will
do
> the same job and accommodate the same props as a certified engine.
>
> There are several minor changes internally such as a beefier case and
> improved lubrication , particularly to the cam shaft, all in all it looks
> like it will be even a better engine than it's counter part.
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Dimpling the floor |
Listers,
I have pulled another of my fovorite stunts (riveting an assembly, then
discovering something I should have done first!). On the RV8A, as I am
finishing the bottom forward skins, the instructions call out to dimple the
flanges for what will be the inside floor so 426 type rivets will leave the
inside flat where the pedals slide in adjustment. The problem is, that part
has been riveted in for some time and, to say the least, I do not want to
take the floor out to use the C-frame tool to do this. Has anyone run into
this and come up with a technique to dimple this? The floor is pretty thick
and could probably be countersunk, but I'd rather avoid that if possible.
Thanks,
Bill Christie, Phoenix, RV8A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: chain link clip idea |
>Okay,
>
>Fill me in on the chain link clip idea for the tail springs on the RV8.
>What's it all about?
>
>Keith--Perpetually prepping for paint. Geez, I'm ready to fly!
Keith,
The little spring steel clips that come with the tail wheel springs work
fine on the forward ends of the chains..where they attach to the rudder
horn. They tend to pull apart, however, at the rear ends where they connect
the chains to the steering arm. I had one pull apart during a crosswind
landing and it sure felt strange having tailwheel steering control to one
side only. It could have been a lot worse if I was rolling faster.
You can replace these flimsy little clips with chain link replacement links
from Home Depot, Lowes, etc. (Just look in the aviation department.) They
are just a simple little affair, that look like a chain link, with a
threaded nut to allow it to couple two lengths of chain together. A drop of
loctite on the threads and the nut is secured, positively securing your
tailwheel chains. You may have to open up the steering arm holes to allow
the links to slip through. I just opened them up with the next size larger
drill bit and they went right in. The whole thing looks and feels much
better now. I had to remove one of the chain links on each chain to allow
for the extra length the couplings added, but it worked out great, and the
steering feels much more solid and precise now. I had some slack in the
chains previously and it had quite a bit of deadband around neutral.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Hartzell (was) Longmont Fly-in |
Andy,
My wife and I will stop by and say hello.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A O360-A1A/Hartzell
Gary,
Isn't that nice to be able to say "RV-6a/Hartzell"
How did the installation go and what are your impressions of the difference?
(Hey...Let's start a p**sing contest about props - Myyy props better that yourr
prop! On second thought.....I think everyone my be out of p**s off by now)
Laird
RV-6/Hartzell 260 hrs
SoCal
(now I can't kid you about your prop, and Jim and I won't have to hear "HEY...Slow
down!) ;-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Irwin" <erici(at)bigfoot.com> |
I visited the Superior booth at Sun 'n Fun. I'm almost certain I was told
they had just started delivering engines to customers. The price of their
carbureted engine at Sun 'n Fun was $21,500 - this is only $200 more than
what Van's has listed on their web site for a new 0-360-A1A. They were
asking $26,380 for the engine with fuel injection and $29,900 for the engine
with FADEC.
Mattituck is building the engines for Superior. They list some of the
advantages of this engine (such as Millennium Cylinders) on their web site
at http://www.mattituck.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Norman, MD
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 2:43 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: superior XP-360
I've talked to these people several times over the past 12 months, and quite
frequently during the past4-6 months. As of 4 months ago (Feb, 2001), they
had NOT delivered their FIRST engine. Thus, none in RVs yet. This was
confirmed by talking with them face to face at Sun-n-Fun this year.
The price is actually a couple of thousand dollars MORE than a brand new one
from Vans, and they will actually tell you that they are not trying to
compete for RV business because they can't compete with Van's OEM prices on
Lycomings. It is an experimental engine, and thus you cannot sell it to
anybody else except an experimental plane builder. They are making their
own crankcase from scratch, thus it is not simply a lycoming with new
cylinders.... but it WAS copied from the lycoming crankcase, and thus uses
most Lycoming parts.
In the end, I researched this Lynosour engine thing about as much as I did
my first (and only) wife! I eventually went with a custom piece put
together by Bart at AeroSport Power. I could see NOTHING which made the
Superior XP-360 a better engine than what we already have access to: power,
reliability, 'newness', price, customization, etc. My opinion: Its not
worth you spending your time looking at this engine.
Please DO archive.
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 1:58 PM
Subject: RV-List: superior XP-360
Hello folks, can anyone tell me something good or bad about this engine?
Does
anyone have one or know of any being used in RV's or similar homebuilt
aircraft? Are the Sensenich props useable on these engines? Thank you for
the info in advance.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: superior XP-360 |
I guess I have another angle on this. I'm newly retired, and I'm about to
increase substantially the rate of progress on my RV-8. I'll be using some
retirement savings to complete the project, knowing that someday when I'm 85
years old, or so, I'll be selling the plane and getting my money back. I
don't intend to pass up my one chance to buy a brand new Lycoming IO-360 at
the OEM price. It will be a substantial factor in the resale value.
Steve Johnson
RV-8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Irwin" <erici(at)bigfoot.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 3:26 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: superior XP-360
>
> I visited the Superior booth at Sun 'n Fun. I'm almost certain I was told
> they had just started delivering engines to customers. The price of their
> carbureted engine at Sun 'n Fun was $21,500 - this is only $200 more than
> what Van's has listed on their web site for a new 0-360-A1A. They were
> asking $26,380 for the engine with fuel injection and $29,900 for the
engine
> with FADEC.
>
> Mattituck is building the engines for Superior. They list some of the
> advantages of this engine (such as Millennium Cylinders) on their web site
> at http://www.mattituck.com/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Todd's Canopies---RV-8/8A builders listen up! |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Almost fell off my chair when I saw Art's post about Todd's
Canopies....after 3 days of pointless flame wars it was nice to find a
reason to keep reading the list! I have decided to order my RV-8A canopy
from Todd after spending a lot of time looking at his work and
corresponding with other builders who have nothing but good to say about
him and his product. I asked him to send me a free tint sample and I got
a big box with the entire front half of a Berkut canopy in it. It is
beautiful. If you want a clear canopy, it is $450 including shipping,
handling, crating, etc....AND comes with an unconditional guarantee that
if you crack it during installation, Todd will send you a new one free of
charge. A tinted canopy is $600. (Vans canopies are around $800 I
believe, and another $800 + S&H if you break one). Furthermore, if you
are worried about bird strikes, Todd can also make your canopy from 1/4"
plastic (instead of 3/16" that Van's provides) at no additional charge.
The Berkut sample Todd sent me is 1/4" and it appears a LOT tougher than
the 3/16", however it does add 5 lb to the canopy weight. Todd will do
either 1/4" or 3/16" your choice.
Here's the kicker.....since he is a small operation right now, he usually
does one canopy at a time and it's somewhat labor intense for him to set
everything up for a certain type of canopy....so if we can get together a
group order of -8/8A canopies, he will provide us a quantity discount
depending on the number ordered. I am willing to serve as the contact
point to coordinate a group order. Even if you are several months away
from ordering your finishing kit it might be worth your while to save
some significant $$ on your canopy by participating in a group order.
Obviously whenever you order your finish kit from Van's just have them
leave out the canopy and credit you for its value.
One other thing....currently if you want tint instead of clear, Todd only
offers one shade of tint, and it's a bit darker than what Vans sells
(which is about what I'd like on my -8A). If enough of us are interested
in a lighter shade of tint Todd says it will make it worthwhile for him
to order a shipment of lighter tint plastic.
If you are interested, check out Todd's website at www.kgarden.com/todd/
or call him at 954-579-0874 or e-mail him at bsilver05(at)aol.com (he has
been very responsive to all my inquiries).
E-mail me off-list if interested in group order.
Regards,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"
(my apologies for not having anything inflammatory to say about the -9A,
or taildraggers or nosedraggers.... : )
_______
From: Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net>
"BSILVER05(at)aol.com" ,
Arthur Glaser
Subject: RV-List: Todd's Canopies
My rv-4 canopy cracked during construction.
I spoke to Todd at Todd's Canopies and arranged to send him my old one
as a model.
The new canopy is beautiful. The fit is great and the optics appear
better than the original (perfect). It also seems a little thicker and
stiffer than the original and therefore was much easier to handle and
cut.
If you are an extra tall pilot, he is willing to make height
modifications and will work with you in any reasonable manner.
Dealing with him has been a pleasure. His prices are excellent at $450
shipped for the clear canopy. He also states on his web site that he
will replace a canopy if it cracks during installation which shows he
has confidence in his materials and procedures.
He has a web site at www.kgarden.com/todd/ His phone is 954-579-0874
Art Glaser
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 6/20/01 6:53:29 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
khorton(at)cyberus.ca writes:
> I'm ready to order a whole bunch of stuff for my engine installation.
> I suddenly realized that perhaps I might be able to take advantage of
> OSH show specials on the expensive items.
>
> Can anyone recall whether they have seen show specials from B&C
> Specialties or LightSpeed Engineering (Klaus Savier electronic
> ignitions)?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
Kevin,
I did get a discount from Klaus last year. I don't recall his regular retail
price but a dual plasma I system with crank sensor plus timining indicator
was a grand total of $2238. According to his current prices that would run
$2648. I think that was close to last years price so you may want to wait a
month.
Rick McBride
80027
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Reiff" <Reiff(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Trim cable installation |
I'm installing the manual trim cable to the trim tab, and am interested in
the modified method in which the cable runs along the elevator root rib
rather than through the HS spar and inside the elevator per plans. Does
anyone know of a site with a photo of this installation?
I'm wondering about the geometry...the plans method places the cable
perpendicular to the trim tab hinge so the cable moves fore and aft
linearly. With the modified method, the cable is parallel to the root rib
which is NOT perpendicular to the hinge, so as the cable end moves fore and
aft it also swings right and left, ie. it bends the cable. Does this stress
the cable, or is it nothing to worry about?
Bob Reiff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Dimpling the floor |
I dimpled a few holes in the forward floor with a pop rivet dimple die set.
I thought the floor was too thick for this method but when I tried it, it
worked fine. Pretty quick, too- should take you 10-15 minutes to do those
holes.
Matthew
8A fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Christie
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 1:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: Dimpling the floor
Listers,
I have pulled another of my fovorite stunts (riveting an assembly, then
discovering something I should have done first!). On the RV8A, as I am
finishing the bottom forward skins, the instructions call out to dimple the
flanges for what will be the inside floor so 426 type rivets will leave the
inside flat where the pedals slide in adjustment. The problem is, that part
has been riveted in for some time and, to say the least, I do not want to
take the floor out to use the C-frame tool to do this. Has anyone run into
this and come up with a technique to dimple this? The floor is pretty thick
and could probably be countersunk, but I'd rather avoid that if possible.
Thanks,
Bill Christie, Phoenix, RV8A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Barstad, Are" <BarstadA(at)bis.adp.com> |
| Subject: | Building Quality (long) |
When I was taking my flying lessons I was often frustrated when the dang
fuel tester or fuel dipstick was nowhere to be found when I did the walk
around the 172 I was flying. I used to wander around the tarmac looking for
testers in one of the 15 aircraft that the club had. Sometimes it took me a
while to get one. I was always wondering how they would disappear. Do people
feed them to their dogs? Do charter passengers keep them as souvenirs? It
sure beats me! I thought to myself that this is reason enough for myself to
have my own aircraft. I would then a) not have to look for the fuel tester
ever again and b) have a reason to steal one myself, when I rent the 172 for
the last time... well, I will personally buy one from the shelf but maybe
that's how they disappear: People spend a quarter million dollars on a plane
and steal a $5.95 plastic cup!?! They even take the wooden dipstick that can
easily be manufactured by 'adjusting' and marking your spouse's wooden
spoon.
At this time I couldn't see any way I could afford to buy a plane of my own
so I started thinking of building one. Luckily, I stumbled upon Van's line
of aircraft. After much research I decided that I wanted an RV. My new plane
had to be fast, 'semi-aerobatic', have a good range and have 3 wheels, that
was my requirement. Nose or tail did not matter but I had to choose one
since it wouldn't be appropriate to have both at the same time. I thought
since I have so far been flying with the training wheel up front, it's time
to get a plane with a training wheel festooned to the tail. Much like chess
and golf, as long as I fly I will learn and get better at what I like. If I
ever get so good that I consider myself 'trained', it is time to find
another hobby that will challenge me. So there I am, building an RV-8 with a
training wheel on the tail.
When I was still kicking tires and hadn't begun my project yet I was around
at various fly-ins and events looking at all RV's. I drooled at all of them
and they all looked like superior workmanship had gone into them. Everyone
was shiny, perfect and had nice panels and seats. And if that wasn't
enough... they were all airworthy and looked perfectly safe. Now, if I could
only do this myself - maybe after my 2nd or 3rd...
After I began building, I found that I many times came to areas where I
would question my own workmanship and quality. I would run out to the first
place RV's were to be found and verify that "yep, I'm not the only one that
did that!". All of a sudden all these perfect planes had small (or large!)
evidences in them proving that a human being was behind the creation. When I
was building my elevator, all I was looking at was elevators... on -3's, 4's
6's and 8's. Did the fiberglass line up perfectly with the stabilizers? Is
the 'cut' between the trim tab and elevator uniform and perfectly square?
Did they make a rib or did they make a perfect trim-tab bend? Is there even
a slight hint of oil canning? (I would not squeeze anybody's control
surfaces!), was the elevator horns aligned perfectly? Did he use pop rivets
on the trim tab spar? So many questions and so few answers - until I went on
field trips, studying.
At that time, the wings and everything else on these RV's looked perfect.
Not until I begun the wings did I notice that not all RV wings aren't 100%
perfect either - they are very nice but not _perfect_. This means a lot to
me. Firstly: I'm not the only person that wasn't able to have a perfect,
smooth transition between the fuel tank and the leading edge and secondly,
but most important!: Passengers, family, friends and other bystanders will
probably look at my RV the way I looked at all of them before I started
building - a very nicely built, perfectly safe aircraft!
I even find production aircraft in many cases to be 'disgusting' with their
long lines of protruding rivets when I look close at them after spending
countless nights drilling, deburring, dimpling and flush-riveting thousands
of holes. A couple of weeks ago, two RV pilots and myself saw a C-310 with a
new paintjob that looked like a million dollars. After closer examination we
noticed that the 310's ailerons made my botched ailerons (that I rebuilt)
look like 10 pointers, the wing skins made mine look like the luxury model
of all aircraft. This is not the only example but what is important to me is
that I realized we are building aircraft in our houses, garages etc. and
able to compete with factory built wonders.
I say we have a damn good reason to feel good about ourselves!
Are
RV-8 (the model with 3 wheels)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
Any suggestions for perhaps a good primer that is available in a spray can for
doing a lot of the internal small parts ( ribs,spars etc), without
having to set up a spray gun each time? Thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: Stephen Johnson
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 2:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: superior XP-360
I guess I have another angle on this. I'm newly retired, and I'm about to
increase substantially the rate of progress on my RV-8. I'll be using some
retirement savings to complete the project, knowing that someday when I'm 85
years old, or so, I'll be selling the plane and getting my money back. I
don't intend to pass up my one chance to buy a brand new Lycoming IO-360
at
the OEM price. It will be a substantial factor in the resale value.
Steve Johnson
RV-8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Irwin" <erici(at)bigfoot.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 3:26 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: superior XP-360
>
> I visited the Superior booth at Sun 'n Fun. I'm almost certain I was told
> they had just started delivering engines to customers. The price of their
> carbureted engine at Sun 'n Fun was $21,500 - this is only $200 more than
> what Van's has listed on their web site for a new 0-360-A1A. They were
> asking $26,380 for the engine with fuel injection and $29,900 for the
engine
> with FADEC.
>
> Mattituck is building the engines for Superior. They list some of the
> advantages of this engine (such as Millennium Cylinders) on their web site
> at http://www.mattituck.com/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
Sherwin Williams 988. About $5 a can from a Sherwin
Williams Automotive paint store.
====
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Getting Close
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy.karmy(at)home.com> |
Sherwin Williams makes a product called GPB988 and you can get it from their
automotive supply stores. It works very nicely for small parts.
- Andy Karmy
Seattle WA
RV9A - Tail
----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 6:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: Priming
>
> Any suggestions for perhaps a good primer that is available in a spray ca> n
for doing a lot of the internal small parts ( ribs,spars etc), without
> having to set up a spray gun each time? Thanks
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Stephen Johnson
> Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 2:13 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: superior XP-360
>
>
> I guess I have another angle on this. I'm newly retired, and I'm about t> o
> increase substantially the rate of progress on my RV-8. I'll be using so> me
> retirement savings to complete the project, knowing that someday when I'm> 85
> years old, or so, I'll be selling the plane and getting my money back. I
> don't intend to pass up my one chance to buy a brand new Lycoming IO-360
> at
> the OEM price. It will be a substantial factor in the resale value.
>
> Steve Johnson
> RV-8
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Eric Irwin" <erici(at)bigfoot.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 3:26 PM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: superior XP-360
>
>
> >
> > I visited the Superior booth at Sun 'n Fun. I'm almost certain I was t> old
> > they had just started delivering engines to customers. The price of th> eir
> > carbureted engine at Sun 'n Fun was $21,500 - this is only $200 more th> an
> > what Van's has listed on their web site for a new 0-360-A1A. They were
> > asking $26,380 for the engine with fuel injection and $29,900 for the
> engine
> > with FADEC.
> >
> > Mattituck is building the engines for Superior. They list some of the
> > advantages of this engine (such as Millennium Cylinders) on their web s> ite
> > at http://www.mattituck.com/
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Todd's Canopies---RV-8/8A builders listen up! |
I was interested in same post and e-mailed Todd myself. He verified that he
does not include 'scrap plastic' meaning that it will be pre-cut and
finished. We only have to cut where the roll bar goes.
I may be interested but it is still early for me. Please don't confuse the
price of Van's tinted canopy though (in all fairness to Van's excellent
prices). It is $577 w/tint and not $800 as you thought.
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
czechsix(at)juno.com
Sent: June 20, 2001 5:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: Todd's Canopies---RV-8/8A builders listen up!
If you want a clear canopy, it is $450 including shipping,
handling, crating, etc....AND comes with an unconditional guarantee that
if you crack it during installation, Todd will send you a new one free of
charge. A tinted canopy is $600. (Vans canopies are around $800 I
believe, and another $800 + S&H if you break one).
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Building Quality (long) |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Building Quality (long)
Thread-Index: AcD518LcWSufgLKTSoeX9GPDg9cGgwAAb0Qg
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Are,
Funny that you mentioned that because I thought the same thing last
Saturday when I was at a flyin breakfast. I was speaking with a
gentleman who was thinking about building an RV and told me several
times how beautiful my airplane is. The whole time I was thinking nope,
it ain't that pretty; but I have a trained eye. To the untrained eye,
which is probably 95% of the eyes that will look your airplane over, its
pretty. Like Randy Pflanzer says, nowadays it's hard not to build a
nice RV. I used to say I'm going to rebuild my elevators, going to
rebuild this and that because I'm not happy with the way something
looks. After you start flying, the story changes. If you don't need to
fix it, it won't get fixed. My elevators oil can a little but it makes
no difference in flying or safety, so now I say they're on there for
good. There's literally hundreds of things I will do differently on my
F1, but so far I've been good and not screwed anything up yet (knock on
wood). I say that's why you build your first for someone else, and the
second one for yourself.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: superior XP-360 |
Jim,
I did the same research as you and came to the same conclusion. Actually, I
wanted to buy a kit engine and save a few thousand, but they continually put
that off and at this point, it looks as though the savings will not be
material.
Bill Christie, RV8A Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Norman, MD <jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 11:42 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: superior XP-360
>
> I've talked to these people several times over the past 12 months, and
quite
> frequently during the past4-6 months. As of 4 months ago (Feb, 2001),
they
> had NOT delivered their FIRST engine. Thus, none in RVs yet. This was
> confirmed by talking with them face to face at Sun-n-Fun this year.
>
> The price is actually a couple of thousand dollars MORE than a brand new
one
> from Vans, and they will actually tell you that they are not trying to
> compete for RV business because they can't compete with Van's OEM prices
on
> Lycomings. It is an experimental engine, and thus you cannot sell it to
> anybody else except an experimental plane builder. They are making their
> own crankcase from scratch, thus it is not simply a lycoming with new
> cylinders.... but it WAS copied from the lycoming crankcase, and thus uses
> most Lycoming parts.
>
> In the end, I researched this Lynosour engine thing about as much as I did
> my first (and only) wife! I eventually went with a custom piece put
> together by Bart at AeroSport Power. I could see NOTHING which made the
> Superior XP-360 a better engine than what we already have access to:
power,
> reliability, 'newness', price, customization, etc. My opinion: Its not
> worth you spending your time looking at this engine.
>
> Please DO archive.
>
> jim
> Tampa
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of JRWillJR(at)aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 1:58 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: superior XP-360
>
>
> Hello folks, can anyone tell me something good or bad about this engine?
> Does
> anyone have one or know of any being used in RV's or similar homebuilt
> aircraft? Are the Sensenich props useable on these engines? Thank you for
> the info in advance.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: D.A.R. inspection |
Yes, they did look at both my POH and my construction log. Fortunately, I
used Mike Robertson's POH and adapted it to my plane, inserting the
appropriate weight and balance data. They were very complimentary (thanks,
Mike!). They did what I thought a D.A.R. should do, asking questions to see
if I actually built the plane, like "what kind of rivets did you use on the
step, did you balance the elevator?" He also asked questions like "what is
your rotation speed...what is your accelerate-stop distance, what is your
maneuvering speed?" The things that I was iffy on, he said he just wanted me
to think about these things. Good luck.
Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: <Im7shannon(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 7:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: D.A.R. inspection
>
> Jerry, did they look closely at your checklists and POH for accuracy and
> completeness?
> Kevin -9A
> Apex WA
> mine's tomorrow
>
> > Listers,
> >
> > The D.A.R. (actually, a man-and-wife team here) inspected my airplane
> > yesterday
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: superior XP-360 |
Someone wrote:
> I visited the Superior booth at Sun 'n Fun. I'm almost certain I was told
> they had just started delivering engines to customers. The price of their
> carbureted engine at Sun 'n Fun was $21,500
I wish Superior every success. Lycoming has a monopoly on this segment of
the market. I have forgotten the exact definition of monopoly but there is
a definition, it has the force of law, and they fit easily. We should all
abhor the monopolist as he makes prices high for what he provides. If there
were a more lively market these little four cylinder horizontally opposed
air cooled engines would cost us half or less than what they do.
Whenever a new product is introduced into a monopolized market prospective
buyers ought to at least consider it fairly. It is in their own best
interests to do so. Yeah, but.... how long will they survive etc. The
market for these engines is small for the amount of effort it takes to
develop, test and market them so the costs per unit are high. Making the
engines is simple enough, especially since the cylinders already exist. The
case halves could be machined from a billet! To make the case halves as
castings and to make other castings in small volumes means making the
patterns of wood. Think how simple it must be to make a lycoming case half
of wooden bits and pieces glued together. You don't even need to own a
foundry, just hire one to do the pour for you.
Van sells the O360 for about $21,000. Lycoming must make them for under
$15.000. Not only does Superior have an investment in design and
facilities, they must also have a good sized war chest to put aside.
Additionally, they must undercut Lycoming who probably has a sizeable war
chest to fight off intruders to their monopoly or the fed. Lyc is not a
small company but part of Textron whose sales are about ten billion bucks a
year. I believe it is clear that with the Lyc division they are "milking
the cow".
So, while I wish Superior success, and feel that we all should, it is a
risky adventure. Should they succeed and get a reputation for being better
than Lycomings, it may be hard to give away an O360A1A, especially one built
up from used parts.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING --- worrying about my new Lycoming.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling the floor |
>
>Listers,
>I have pulled another of my fovorite stunts (riveting an assembly, then
>discovering something I should have done first!). On the RV8A, as I am
>finishing the bottom forward skins, the instructions call out to dimple the
>flanges for what will be the inside floor so 426 type rivets will leave the
>inside flat where the pedals slide in adjustment. The problem is, that part
>has been riveted in for some time and, to say the least, I do not want to
>take the floor out to use the C-frame tool to do this. Has anyone run into
>this and come up with a technique to dimple this? The floor is pretty thick
>and could probably be countersunk, but I'd rather avoid that if possible.
>
>Thanks,
>Bill Christie, Phoenix, RV8A fuselage
>
I dimpled a couple of holes in my floor using the male die in the
long rivet set from the C-Frame tool, and the female die in a piece
of scrap steel with a hole drilled in it. I used a hammer on the
C-Frame tool set, and my wife held the piece of scrap steel with the
other die. It worked like a charm.
Good luck,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A QB control stick installation questions |
Steve: I agree with Ralph that's what I did on my RV6-A-QB and I believe the
Orindorf Tape shows this also.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: Stephen J. Soule <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 11:48 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV6A QB control stick installation questions
>
> Ralph,
>
> I ran into something similar with my slo-build RV-6A and concluded that I
> needed to make a cut out that looked somewhat different than the plans and
> manual depicted. I asked the folks at Van's and was told that I should
make
> the cutout to fit. Keep cutting and filing those floor ribs I say. If you
> feel nervous, call Van's.
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, VT
> RV-6A still chasing details.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> As I'm fitting my F633 (L&R) for drilling per dwg 40 with bearings
> up...my control stick weldment WD610 contacts the F618 and F619 floor
> ribs - even with the amount that they are already cut out.
> Remember that this is a QB - I think that these parts should fit without
> additional cutting/grinding/filing.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary and Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell (was) Longmont Fly-in |
Laird,
The installation went well. The hardest part was cleaning all the gunk that had
built up in the nose of the crank so I could replace the "pierced" rear plug.
Who needs an oil filter when we have this great centrifuge cleaning our oil on
the front of the engine! The spinner is a little close for comfort so I'll pull
the prop some day and shave about .063" off of the rear flange and spinner when
I get a chance.
Impressions: Boy does it accelerate down the runway and keeps accelerating a fast
clip once off the ground. It is nice to point the nose up or down and the
engine RPM always stays the same. My first approach to landing was a little dicey
as I no longer had the sound clues coming from the engine that I was so
accustomed too. I also glanced at the wrong instrument, the tach, and not the manifold
pressure when reducing power for that first landing. The second was much
better. I find it easier to maintain a constant speed on approach and it slows
down much faster, even on the ground.
I wonder why I ever put a FP prop on the nose. Oh, I remember, ran out of money.
In short, I like it!!!
Gary
RV-6 (3 wheeler) O360/Hartzell
"Owens, Laird" wrote:
>
>
> Andy,
>
> My wife and I will stop by and say hello.
>
> Gary Zilik
> RV-6A O360-A1A/Hartzell
>
> Gary,
>
> Isn't that nice to be able to say "RV-6a/Hartzell"
>
> How did the installation go and what are your impressions of the difference?
>
> (Hey...Let's start a p**sing contest about props - Myyy props better that yourr
prop! On second thought.....I think everyone my be out of p**s off by now)
>
> Laird
> RV-6/Hartzell 260 hrs
> SoCal
> (now I can't kid you about your prop, and Jim and I won't have to hear "HEY...Slow
down!) ;-)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: thought for the day..... |
Very well said, Sam.
John Danielson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 Canopy, how to attach to frame ?? |
I recently got a good start on doing the windscreen and the canopy. Currently
I am
faced with drilling and attaching the canopy to the frame. Vans suggests using
AACQ4-4 blind rivits to temporarily attach the canopy to the frame, then fit
the
skirt, then drill out the AACQ4-4 rivits, then drill the skirt using a hole
duplicator.
I figure that I can do the above, however I am very much worried about
ruining
the canopy when drilling out the AACQ4-4. Can someone give me reason not
to worry ?
The other question: Somewhere in the past I saw reference to some builders
using screws instead of rivits to attach the canopy. If this is the case I
would
much appreciate hearing about the details.
Thanks much.
Tom Diede
N848TD
down to canopy, engine cowling, fairings, and numerous odds and ends.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling the floor |
Avery has a dimpling/riveting block set, page 23 of their current catalog,
that is made to do just what Kevin describes, They want $32.00 for the set.
It has a block of steel with a couple of holes in it to accept rivet or
dimple sets, and a bar to go in the rivet gun that is also drilled to holt
the sets.
I have one but haven't used it yet.
Terry
RV-8A fuselage floors
Seattle
>
>
> I dimpled a couple of holes in my floor using the male die in the
> long rivet set from the C-Frame tool, and the female die in a piece
> of scrap steel with a hole drilled in it. I used a hammer on the
> C-Frame tool set, and my wife held the piece of scrap steel with the
> other die. It worked like a charm.
>
> Good luck,
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine)
> Ottawa, Canada
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: superior XP-360 |
In a message dated 6/20/01 1:44:12 PM Central Daylight Time,
jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com writes:
<< jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com >>
Jim, if possible and I am not trying to be nosey but could you elabororate on
Bart at Custom aero please. I know you do not want to give an exact price but
ballpark would be helpful. Thanks. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ClecoToo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fwd: Blow it out your ass |
Another typical love letter from the bully crowd who dominate your rv list
list. This one from MeangreenRV4 sent to my private e-mail and I am just
returning it as a favor. cleco
From: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com
Full-name: MeangreenRV4
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 23:43:52 EDT
Subject: Blow it out your ass
It seems to me Meangreen I am the one that does not care if it has a
nosewheel or not as stated in my earlier post and you guys like to bash those
of us who have nose gear projects so you can feel all puffed up about your
self. Some part of you inside must be very small to fixate on such things and
choose to attack people you do not know just because they chose a trike gear
airplane. What a bunch of crap. Oh, you can shove your bloated opinion too,
do like your airplane though. Jerry said "bring it on" and I assure you that
some of you guys come up to me at a flyin after sweating blood to build
something and start ribbing a total stranger about a sissy nose gear and
other baloney--I will not be the one who politely sits there and takes it. Do
not archive. cleco
Your an idiot...I don't care if your nose wheel is up front, in the back or
up your ass. It pisses every body off (me included) when somebody like you
post bullshit like this on a public service.
-- RV-List message posted by: ClecoToo(at)aol.com
It seems to me Meangreen I am the one that does not care if it has a
nosewheel or not as stated in my earlier post and you guys like to bash those
of us who have nose gear projects so you can feel all puffed up about your
self. Some part of you inside must be very small to fixate on such things and
choose to attack people you do not know just because they chose a trike gear
airplane. What a bunch of crap. Oh, you can shove your bloated opinion too,
do like your airplane though. Jerry said "bring it on" and I assure you that
some of you guys come up to me at a flyin after sweating blood to build
something and start ribbing a total stranger about a sissy nose gear and
other baloney--I will not be the one who politely sits there and takes it. Do
not archive. cleco
Your an idiot...I don't care if your nose wheel is up front, in the back or
up your ass. It pisses every body off (me included) when somebody like you
post bullshit like this on a public service.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Todd's Canopies---RV-8/8A builders listen up! |
Are
It should be pointed out that Todd's tinted canopy price of $600 INCLUDES
shipping. He gaurantees his canopies against cracking during installation and
offers canopies in the standard 3/16" (before forming) and a thicker 1/4"
(before forming).
Charlie Kuss
>
> I was interested in same post and e-mailed Todd myself. He verified that he
> does not include 'scrap plastic' meaning that it will be pre-cut and
> finished. We only have to cut where the roll bar goes.
>
> I may be interested but it is still early for me. Please don't confuse the
> price of Van's tinted canopy though (in all fairness to Van's excellent
> prices). It is $577 w/tint and not $800 as you thought.
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> czechsix(at)juno.com
> Sent: June 20, 2001 5:18 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Todd's Canopies---RV-8/8A builders listen up!
>
>
> If you want a clear canopy, it is $450 including shipping,
> handling, crating, etc....AND comes with an unconditional guarantee that
> if you crack it during installation, Todd will send you a new one free of
> charge. A tinted canopy is $600. (Vans canopies are around $800 I
> believe, and another $800 + S&H if you break one).
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy, how to attach to frame ?? |
Tom . . . one caution, when you drill out the AACQ4-4 it may start to "spin"
on you, which will heat the plexi and enlargen the hole. I didn't have any
problems with cracks, either during the initial drill (used slow speed
electric drill and plexi bits) or removing some of the rivets. However, I
put as few of the temporary rivets in place as possible while doing the
skirt fit. By the way, I found working with the skirt much more difficult
than working with the canopy!
Rick Jory
----- Original Message -----
From: <Tdiede(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 10:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Canopy, how to attach to frame ??
>
> I recently got a good start on doing the windscreen and the canopy.
Currently
> I am
> faced with drilling and attaching the canopy to the frame. Vans suggests
using
> AACQ4-4 blind rivits to temporarily attach the canopy to the frame, then
fit
> the
> skirt, then drill out the AACQ4-4 rivits, then drill the skirt using a
hole
> duplicator.
>
> I figure that I can do the above, however I am very much worried about
> ruining
> the canopy when drilling out the AACQ4-4. Can someone give me reason not
> to worry ?
>
> The other question: Somewhere in the past I saw reference to some
builders
> using screws instead of rivits to attach the canopy. If this is the case
I
> would
> much appreciate hearing about the details.
>
> Thanks much.
>
> Tom Diede
> N848TD
> down to canopy, engine cowling, fairings, and numerous odds and ends.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | Etch and Alodine Question |
Several other RV builders and I have a one-time opportunity to purchase etch
and alodine at a discount. What quantity of each is needed to treat the
exterior of one RV-6? Since some products require/allow dilution before
use, I am looking for the quantity of chemical in its ready-to-apply state.
Suggestions from those who have experience with this will be appreciated.
Ken Harrill
RV-6
Columbia, SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Todd's Canopies---RV-8/8A builders listen up! |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
06/21/2001 09:08:28 AM
FYI - Todd will be dropping by my hangar on Saturday to start the workup
for an rv-6 canopy mold. Little does he know that he gets to help me take
it off and put it on a zillion times until I get the optimum position
nailed down. Then we'll split it, boy it feels good to know I have a free
spare if I crack this sucker. You can expect an rv-6 canopy from him soon,
sounds like he's chomping at the bit.
Eric Henson
czechsix(at)juno.com@matronics.com on 06/20/2001 05:18:08 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Todd's Canopies---RV-8/8A builders listen up!
Almost fell off my chair when I saw Art's post about Todd's
Canopies....after 3 days of pointless flame wars it was nice to find a
reason to keep reading the list! I have decided to order my RV-8A canopy
from Todd after spending a lot of time looking at his work and
corresponding with other builders who have nothing but good to say about
him and his product. I asked him to send me a free tint sample and I got
a big box with the entire front half of a Berkut canopy in it. It is
beautiful. If you want a clear canopy, it is $450 including shipping,
handling, crating, etc....AND comes with an unconditional guarantee that
if you crack it during installation, Todd will send you a new one free of
charge. A tinted canopy is $600. (Vans canopies are around $800 I
believe, and another $800 + S&H if you break one). Furthermore, if you
are worried about bird strikes, Todd can also make your canopy from 1/4"
plastic (instead of 3/16" that Van's provides) at no additional charge.
The Berkut sample Todd sent me is 1/4" and it appears a LOT tougher than
the 3/16", however it does add 5 lb to the canopy weight. Todd will do
either 1/4" or 3/16" your choice.
Here's the kicker.....since he is a small operation right now, he usually
does one canopy at a time and it's somewhat labor intense for him to set
everything up for a certain type of canopy....so if we can get together a
group order of -8/8A canopies, he will provide us a quantity discount
depending on the number ordered. I am willing to serve as the contact
point to coordinate a group order. Even if you are several months away
from ordering your finishing kit it might be worth your while to save
some significant $$ on your canopy by participating in a group order.
Obviously whenever you order your finish kit from Van's just have them
leave out the canopy and credit you for its value.
One other thing....currently if you want tint instead of clear, Todd only
offers one shade of tint, and it's a bit darker than what Vans sells
(which is about what I'd like on my -8A). If enough of us are interested
in a lighter shade of tint Todd says it will make it worthwhile for him
to order a shipment of lighter tint plastic.
If you are interested, check out Todd's website at www.kgarden.com/todd/
or call him at 954-579-0874 or e-mail him at bsilver05(at)aol.com (he has
been very responsive to all my inquiries).
E-mail me off-list if interested in group order.
Regards,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"
(my apologies for not having anything inflammatory to say about the -9A,
or taildraggers or nosedraggers.... : )
_______
From: Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net>
"BSILVER05(at)aol.com" ,
Arthur Glaser
Subject: RV-List: Todd's Canopies
My rv-4 canopy cracked during construction.
I spoke to Todd at Todd's Canopies and arranged to send him my old one
as a model.
The new canopy is beautiful. The fit is great and the optics appear
better than the original (perfect). It also seems a little thicker and
stiffer than the original and therefore was much easier to handle and
cut.
If you are an extra tall pilot, he is willing to make height
modifications and will work with you in any reasonable manner.
Dealing with him has been a pleasure. His prices are excellent at $450
shipped for the clear canopy. He also states on his web site that he
will replace a canopy if it cracks during installation which shows he
has confidence in his materials and procedures.
He has a web site at www.kgarden.com/todd/ His phone is 954-579-0874
Art Glaser
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Barstad, Are" <BarstadA(at)bis.adp.com> |
| Subject: | RV-poll Results... |
After 214 votes in only a short period I have decided to close the RV-Poll
with the subject: "If you were to start building a new RV, which one would
you prefer?" I should have included Rockets and 6's I guess but it was too
late. Anyway, here are the results with the RV in most demand on the top:
RV-7A: 66 votes
RV-7: 47 votes
RV-8: 41 votes
RV-9A: 28 votes
RV-8A: 16 votes
RV-4: 14 votes
RV-3: 2 votes
Total 214 votes
Please keep in mind that my idea of the poll was not to find out which RV is
the best. Personally I think the survey proves what most of us already knew:
There are several reasons for building what we like. From a quick glance at
the survey, you will see that there are a broad variety of RV enthusiasts.
This is good! Otherwise our RV gatherings would be extremely boring. Imagine
106 RV-8's or 106 RV-9A's at one fly-in? The bottom line is that you end up
building what you like, not what the other guy like. He doesn't have to fly
it, does he? We should always respect each other for our own personal
preferences since this is a big part of who we are.
I apologize in advance if I stir up negative posts as a result of this.
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
I have enjoyed this list for a long time, I have learned from it and I hope
I contributed worthwhile information to it also, but this is over the line.
Everyone take a deep breath This subject is closed. Anyone who is inclined
to continue the bashing, before you start typing, go to the airport and go
flying. If that doesnt do it, type away and when you are done, you have
totally vented, hit the delete button instead of the send button.
This is not the first time the list has gotten personal, nor will it be the
last. but this topic needs to end! I am sure Matt could confirm there have
been lots of unsubscribtions in the last week as a result of this nonsense.
Otherwise keep arguing. I will go fly the Mustang, (a big, blind, RV that
goes 400 mph)
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy, how to attach to frame ?? |
Tom,
You are correct to worry - But - you can do it - we did.
Here is the Good - Bad and saving grace:
We heated the garage to about 95 and sweated like pigs, but the canopy loved
it. We had a hard time identifying the cut line on the skirt and cut it
alittle to high, which didn't make a difference on the windscreen but
wouldn't reach the bottom of the canopy frame (forward end). We called Van's
and they said this happens with some regularity. This forced us to shorten
the cnopy frame about 1/4" just ahead of the rear bow. The result was our
one piece canopy skirt didn't fit. The new skirts are two piece - if your
have the one piece skirt I'd recommend that you make a piece unit by cutting
it vertically at the very rear center.
We drilled all the holes with #40 drill and opened them up with a Unibit
(which doesn't grab). We used the Aluminmum pop rivits (you tell them by
their weight or a magnet. We used a hole duplicator tool to drill the skirt.
Dave & I were concerned about the stress points (particularly at the rear of
the canopy - read potential cracking) and decided not to use screws and
also do some Internet searching for a better solution.
What Dave found was that a number of aircraft (such as Christian Eagles and
some Pitts) attach their canopies solely with semi-weld (Proseal), which you
can get in a tube. We used this method with about 6 keeper rivits (AACQ4-4
rivits) and it worked Super. Strong and flexible. Since we had drilled the
holes in the skirt we had alittle patching to do. We highly recommend this
method and feel very comfortable that we will not see any cracking.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A ( finishing wiring this weekend)
Niantic, CT (Westerly airport)
>I recently got a good start on doing the windscreen and the canopy.
>Currently
>I am
>faced with drilling and attaching the canopy to the frame. Vans suggests
>using
>AACQ4-4 blind rivits to temporarily attach the canopy to the frame, then
>fit
>the
>skirt, then drill out the AACQ4-4 rivits, then drill the skirt using a
>hole
>duplicator.
>
>I figure that I can do the above, however I am very much worried about
>ruining
>the canopy when drilling out the AACQ4-4. Can someone give me reason not
>to worry ?
>
>The other question: Somewhere in the past I saw reference to some builders
>using screws instead of rivits to attach the canopy. If this is the case I
>would
>much appreciate hearing about the details.
>
>Thanks much.
>
>Tom Diede
>N848TD
>down to canopy, engine cowling, fairings, and numerous odds and ends.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | RV-poll Results... |
RV-4's only got 14 votes?! I demand a recount! I want to personally check
each chad! Are you sure there weren't dimpled ballots?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Adminstrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
"Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant,
for those who foolishly think that somehow they
can achieve success without paying the price."
-----Original Message-----
From: Barstad, Are [mailto:BarstadA(at)bis.adp.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 6:18 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-poll Results...
June 14, 2001 - June 21, 2001
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ky