RV-Archive.digest.vol-kz
June 21, 2001 - June 25, 2001
After 214 votes in only a short period I have decided to close the RV-Poll
with the subject: "If you were to start building a new RV, which one would
you prefer?" I should have included Rockets and 6's I guess but it was too
late. Anyway, here are the results with the RV in most demand on the top:
RV-7A: 66 votes
RV-7: 47 votes
RV-8: 41 votes
RV-9A: 28 votes
RV-8A: 16 votes
RV-4: 14 votes
RV-3: 2 votes
Total 214 votes
Please keep in mind that my idea of the poll was not to find out which RV is
the best. Personally I think the survey proves what most of us already knew:
There are several reasons for building what we like. From a quick glance at
the survey, you will see that there are a broad variety of RV enthusiasts.
This is good! Otherwise our RV gatherings would be extremely boring. Imagine
106 RV-8's or 106 RV-9A's at one fly-in? The bottom line is that you end up
building what you like, not what the other guy like. He doesn't have to fly
it, does he? We should always respect each other for our own personal
preferences since this is a big part of who we are.
I apologize in advance if I stir up negative posts as a result of this.
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HUBBLUGG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Scotchbrite wheels |
Hi, I see mentioned builders using "scotchbrite" wheels. I remember using
them way back when I was a car mechanic, but now can't seem to find them.
Anybody have suppliers, part no's , etc. where I can get them? Thanks
Ben Hubbard Quogue N.Y. -8 empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ryan Severance" <ryanseverance(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Scotchbrite wheels |
I ordered mine from Cleaveland Aircraft tool.
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/catalog/deburing.html
3MW7A1 - 3M CUTTING & POLISHING WHEEL 1" - $4.50
3MW7A2S - 3M CUTTING & POLISHING WHEEL 2" - $6.00
3MW7A6 - 3M CUTTING & POLISHING WHEEL 6" - $49.00
Ryan Severance
RV-7 Empennage
Hi, I see mentioned builders using "scotchbrite" wheels. I remember using
them way back when I was a car mechanic, but now can't seem to find them.
Anybody have suppliers, part no's , etc. where I can get them? Thanks
Ben Hubbard Quogue N.Y. -8 empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
I don't know if Bart Lalonde can help you, but the
difference in engine price for an overhaul crank and a
new one was $3500.
====
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Getting Close
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy, how to attach to frame ?? |
> The other question: Somewhere in the past I saw reference to some
builders
> using screws instead of rivits to attach the canopy. If this is the case
I
> would
> much appreciate hearing about the details.
Tom,
I used screws for permanent attachment on my 6A. Stainless with nylocs.
Nuts are visible on the inside of the canopy and it doesn't bother me but
does others. Ideally there would be no holes drilled in the plexi. The
design should be such that plexi is held just as you would glass, like a
window with a frame.
Using pop rivets as temp fasteners seems really wrong to me. One of the
features of threaded fasteners to build anything is that it can be taken
back apart for service. Van's fabulous little airplanes are not meant to be
serviced, I guess. When it breaks, build another.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Building Quality (long) |
<>
That is absolutely true. I just got through repairing the small dings in my vertical
stabilizer. Want to know how I did it with no weight penalties? I learned
this trick from looking at some other builder's projects:
I placed my "N" numbers right over the dings and like magic - they disappeared.
Now I just have to figure out a paint strip sceme that will "hide" the other
flaws and I too will have that "perfect" airplane that everyone looks at while
at Sun 'n Fun and Osh.
Regards,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (carb airbox and engine baffles)
www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Scotchbrite wheels |
Try Avery Tools www.averytools.com
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A - N57ME (carb airbox & engine baffles)
www.ericsrv6a.com
In a message dated Thu, 21 Jun 2001 10:58:46 AM Eastern Daylight Time, HUBBLUGG(at)aol.com
writes:
Hi, I see mentioned builders using "scotchbrite" wheels. I remember using
them way back when I was a car mechanic, but now can't seem to find them.
Anybody have suppliers, part no's , etc. where I can get them? Thanks
Ben Hubbard Quogue N.Y. -8 empennage
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | RV-poll Results... |
Well I guess there are less "Manly Men" on this list then I thought.
"LEGAL DISCLAIMER"
p.s. "That was meant only as an attempt at humor (despite how pathetic).
No real or imaginary RV pilots were hurt, killed, nor injured in any way
during the writing of this lame post. Any similarity to actual humor is
merely coincidental and should not be miss-con-screwed as a flame of any
kind towards any plane without retractable gears (whether or not the little
wheel is before or aft of the mains).
----- Original Message -----
From: Van Artsdalen, Scott <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 9:19 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-poll Results...
>
> RV-4's only got 14 votes?! I demand a recount! I want to personally
check
> each chad! Are you sure there weren't dimpled ballots?
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Adminstrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
> "Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant,
> for those who foolishly think that somehow they
> can achieve success without paying the price."
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Barstad, Are [mailto:BarstadA(at)bis.adp.com]
> Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 6:18 AM
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RV-List: RV-poll Results...
>
>
> After 214 votes in only a short period I have decided to close the RV-Poll
> with the subject: "If you were to start building a new RV, which one would
> you prefer?" I should have included Rockets and 6's I guess but it was too
> late. Anyway, here are the results with the RV in most demand on the top:
>
> RV-7A: 66 votes
> RV-7: 47 votes
> RV-8: 41 votes
> RV-9A: 28 votes
> RV-8A: 16 votes
> RV-4: 14 votes
> RV-3: 2 votes
>
> Total 214 votes
>
> Please keep in mind that my idea of the poll was not to find out which RV
is
> the best. Personally I think the survey proves what most of us already
knew:
> There are several reasons for building what we like. From a quick glance
at
> the survey, you will see that there are a broad variety of RV enthusiasts.
> This is good! Otherwise our RV gatherings would be extremely boring.
Imagine
> 106 RV-8's or 106 RV-9A's at one fly-in? The bottom line is that you end
up
> building what you like, not what the other guy like. He doesn't have to
fly
> it, does he? We should always respect each other for our own personal
> preferences since this is a big part of who we are.
>
> I apologize in advance if I stir up negative posts as a result of this.
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Scotchbrite wheels |
There's actually several places they can be purchased. Two of our local
automotive paint supply houses have them. Our local welding supply does
also. MacMaster Carr, MSC, Enco, and others.
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
ENewton57(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 8:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Scotchbrite wheels
Try Avery Tools www.averytools.com
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A - N57ME (carb airbox & engine baffles)
www.ericsrv6a.com
In a message dated Thu, 21 Jun 2001 10:58:46 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
HUBBLUGG(at)aol.com writes:
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
That is my point exactly, I did not, but Mr. Van G. did. The RVs have
captured the "fighter feel" We should all thank our lucky stars we live in
a country where you can build an RV in your garage and fly it like a
fighter, and quit worrying about where the little wheel is.
Doug
>
>
> "Doug Rozendaal" (at)matronics.com on 06/21/2001
> 09:39:57 AM
> Now THAT hurts man, really cruel. <;-)
>
> Did you bring enough Mustang to share with the rest of the class?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | RV-poll Results... |
Geez, Chuck, don't get 'em started again. Besides, when everyone else sees
how much fun we're having with our obscure manual, non-revised plans,
non-prepunched kits, AND tailwheels, everyone will want to build a 4! Oh,
did I forget to mention the cramped cockpit? Yes, this is the kind of
airplane that lumberjacks want to fly.
PS. I'm borrowing Chuck's disclaimer.
--
Scott (a manly man) VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Adminstrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
"Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant,
for those who foolishly think that somehow they
can achieve success without paying the price."
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Rabaut [mailto:crabaut(at)coalinga.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 6:46 AM
Subject: Fw: RV-List: RV-poll Results...
Well I guess there are less "Manly Men" on this list then I thought.
"LEGAL DISCLAIMER"
p.s. "That was meant only as an attempt at humor (despite how pathetic).
No real or imaginary RV pilots were hurt, killed, nor injured in any way
during the writing of this lame post. Any similarity to actual humor is
merely coincidental and should not be miss-con-screwed as a flame of any
kind towards any plane without retractable gears (whether or not the little
wheel is before or aft of the mains).
----- Original Message -----
From: Van Artsdalen, Scott <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 9:19 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-poll Results...
>
> RV-4's only got 14 votes?! I demand a recount! I want to personally
check
> each chad! Are you sure there weren't dimpled ballots?
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Adminstrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
> "Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant,
> for those who foolishly think that somehow they
> can achieve success without paying the price."
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Barstad, Are [mailto:BarstadA(at)bis.adp.com]
> Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 6:18 AM
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RV-List: RV-poll Results...
>
>
> After 214 votes in only a short period I have decided to close the RV-Poll
> with the subject: "If you were to start building a new RV, which one would
> you prefer?" I should have included Rockets and 6's I guess but it was too
> late. Anyway, here are the results with the RV in most demand on the top:
>
> RV-7A: 66 votes
> RV-7: 47 votes
> RV-8: 41 votes
> RV-9A: 28 votes
> RV-8A: 16 votes
> RV-4: 14 votes
> RV-3: 2 votes
>
> Total 214 votes
>
> Please keep in mind that my idea of the poll was not to find out which RV
is
> the best. Personally I think the survey proves what most of us already
knew:
> There are several reasons for building what we like. From a quick glance
at
> the survey, you will see that there are a broad variety of RV enthusiasts.
> This is good! Otherwise our RV gatherings would be extremely boring.
Imagine
> 106 RV-8's or 106 RV-9A's at one fly-in? The bottom line is that you end
up
> building what you like, not what the other guy like. He doesn't have to
fly
> it, does he? We should always respect each other for our own personal
> preferences since this is a big part of who we are.
>
> I apologize in advance if I stir up negative posts as a result of this.
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Cherroff" <sam(at)videoassist.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Todd's Canopies---RV-8/8A builders listen up! |
Does Todd use Lexan or acrylic?
>
> Are
> It should be pointed out that Todd's tinted canopy price of $600 INCLUDES
> shipping. He gaurantees his canopies against cracking during installation and
> offers canopies in the standard 3/16" (before forming) and a thicker 1/4"
> (before forming).
> Charlie Kuss
>
> >
> > I was interested in same post and e-mailed Todd myself. He verified that he
> > does not include 'scrap plastic' meaning that it will be pre-cut and
> > finished. We only have to cut where the roll bar goes.
> >
> > I may be interested but it is still early for me. Please don't confuse the
> > price of Van's tinted canopy though (in all fairness to Van's excellent
> > prices). It is $577 w/tint and not $800 as you thought.
> >
> > Are
> > RV-8 Wings
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> > czechsix(at)juno.com
> > Sent: June 20, 2001 5:18 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Todd's Canopies---RV-8/8A builders listen up!
> >
> >
> > If you want a clear canopy, it is $450 including shipping,
> > handling, crating, etc....AND comes with an unconditional guarantee that
> > if you crack it during installation, Todd will send you a new one free of
> > charge. A tinted canopy is $600. (Vans canopies are around $800 I
> > believe, and another $800 + S&H if you break one).
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Krhooper(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Scotchbrite wheels |
If anyone needs a 3M Scotch-Brite wheel, I have a few that I can sell for
$10 each. These are the 6x1x5/16 inch, 7A MED rated to 6000 RPM. If
interested please respond off list to krhooper(at)aol.com
Randy Hooper
RV-8
closing wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Building Quality (long) |
Probably the hardest thing about building an airplane for the first time is
knowing what the acceptable standards are. Everyone wants to build a safe
airplane, and everyone *starts out* wanting to build a perfect airplane.
Sooner rather than later you realize that this isn't going to happen and you
start trying to figure out what is excellent/good/acceptable/unairworthy.
So you start really paying attention to the construction of every airplane
you can get near.
Early on I was fortunate enough to be able to bend the ear of an I/A that I
really respect. I would bring him parts that I was crushed over "screwing
up". Some of them were in fact screwed up, while on others would cause him
to look at me funny and say "You're worried about that? That will outlast
every other piece of the airframe!" I poked my nose into a C210 wing
inspection hole one day and was amazed by the huge spar rivets that had
their shop heads driven almost flat! I asked the I/A about it and he said
they certainly should be thicker but that it only compromises about 5% of
their integrity and it would cause more damage to drill them out and put new
ones in. After seeing that, NONE of my work seemed less than perfect.
Some people think that only the best is good enough. That's great for those
people. Unfortunately sometimes those people make it difficult for us
mortals to believe that we will ever finish an airplane if those standards
have to be met. I still give a friend of mine a hard time about an event
that happened in my hangar one day. This person is *very* meticulous and
had been having some difficulty getting a non-structural part to arrive at
his satisfaction. He wanted to look at the part on my airplane to see how I
did it. (I don't even remember what it was now) As he was looking at it,
the proverbial light bulb went off over his head and he said "Oh, it doesn't
HAVE to be perfect!". I started laughing, and he looked mortified and kept
saying, "I didn't mean it like that!
I still keep that in mind to this day. Sure, there are some things that
have to be perfect but most don't, and *merely* very good is plenty good
enough. You just need to find out what the differences are.
Build it strong and safe, and then balance cosmetic perfection against how
long you want to be on the ground.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)micron.net
> The other day we were boarding a B737 to go on a trip with her family when
I
> pointed out some of the rivets that you can see from inside the jetway to
> her. (Door parts and a few flush rivets in the skin)
>
> She said, "I can do a better job than that!", and she is right. Her
brother
> laughed thinking that she was joking. When I told him that, in fact, she
> has DONE better than that, he got this very unusual look on his face. It
> was interesting to see the facial expressions made by the crew as well.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Scotchbrite wheels |
| From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
get some catologs from Avery, Brown, Clevland, Wicks, & ASS.
Don Jordan - 6A - N6DJ - dons6a(at)juno.com - Arlington, TX
*************************************************************************
***
>
> Hi, I see mentioned builders using "scotchbrite" wheels. I
> remember using
> them way back when I was a car mechanic, but now can't seem to find
> them.
> Anybody have suppliers, part no's , etc. where I can get them?
> Thanks
> Ben Hubbard Quogue N.Y. -8 empennage
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Building Quality |
Eric wrote:
> I placed my "N" numbers right over the dings and like magic - they
disappeared. >Now I just have to figure out a paint strip sceme that will
"hide" the other flaws and >I too will have that "perfect" airplane that
everyone looks at while at Sun 'n Fun and >Osh.
One of the planes at OSH had several parallel dark paint stripes running
from nose back. The total stripe was about an inch wide and it made the
cowl halves joint vanish completely!
The other night there was a show on TV about a magician in England named
something like 'Mazelin'. He was the master of camoflage. Then there is
this stuff called 'trompe de loi' or fool the eye. The other trick is to
lead the eye to somewhere else. Still, the best trick is craftsmanship.
Mine is a student project.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
For Sale -- 1965 Beech Debonair see
www.aerobotix.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ryan Severance" <ryanseverance(at)hotmail.com> |
I got this from a friend....any ideas?
>>
A test of your pilot knowledge. I thought maybe you could point me to a
source of data. I'm working on a project that we need to determine how
often the airports in some of our key cities have clear weather, and thus we
could fly using VFR. Are you aware of any data sources that show what
percentage of time an airports has clear weather allowing for VFR. These
would obviously be major airports such as MSP, LAS, DFW, DTW, etc...
>>
Thanks,
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Navratil" <czechsix(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Todd's Canopies---RV-8/8A builders listen up! |
Are, thanks for the correction, and my apologies for spreading misinformation on
the list. I checked Van's prices several months ago and thought the -8 canopies
were around $800, but apparently they have either changed or else I was looking
at the wrong thing. Maybe I got mixed up with the -6 prices which are
in the $800-900 range. At any rate, I think Todd still has a good deal going
with his free replacement guarantee, and if we can get a group order he promises
a "significant discount" making his prices even better.....you will certainly
save $$ vs. Vans prices, good as they are.
Regards,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Todd's Canopies---RV-8/8A builders listen up!
I was interested in same post and e-mailed Todd myself. He verified that he
does not include 'scrap plastic' meaning that it will be pre-cut and
finished. We only have to cut where the roll bar goes.
I may be interested but it is still early for me. Please don't confuse the
price of Van's tinted canopy though (in all fairness to Van's excellent
prices). It is $577 w/tint and not $800 as you thought.
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
czechsix(at)juno.com
Sent: June 20, 2001 5:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: Todd's Canopies---RV-8/8A builders listen up!
If you want a clear canopy, it is $450 including shipping,
handling, crating, etc....AND comes with an unconditional guarantee that
if you crack it during installation, Todd will send you a new one free of
charge. A tinted canopy is $600. (Vans canopies are around $800 I
believe, and another $800 + S&H if you break one).
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Are Barstad <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-poll Results... |
Incidently... tallying up the numbers, it shows that 110 of us wants the training
wheel up front and _only_ 104 of us wants the training wheel on the tail.
There you have it!
If you like to see the official graph of the survey, you can see it here (so there
will be no doubt that ballots from Florida weren't counted :) ):
http://pub.alxnet.com/poll?id=2103619&q=view
Are
RV-8 Wings
www.ontariorvators.org VAF-OW
>
> From: "Barstad, Are" <BarstadA(at)bis.adp.com>
> Date: 2001/06/21 Thu AM 09:17:52 EDT
> To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
> Subject: RV-List: RV-poll Results...
>
>
> After 214 votes in only a short period I have decided to close the RV-Poll
> with the subject: "If you were to start building a new RV, which one would
> you prefer?" I should have included Rockets and 6's I guess but it was too
> late. Anyway, here are the results with the RV in most demand on the top:
>
> RV-7A: 66 votes
> RV-7: 47 votes
> RV-8: 41 votes
> RV-9A: 28 votes
> RV-8A: 16 votes
> RV-4: 14 votes
> RV-3: 2 votes
>
> Total 214 votes
>
> Please keep in mind that my idea of the poll was not to find out which RV is
> the best. Personally I think the survey proves what most of us already knew:
> There are several reasons for building what we like. From a quick glance at
> the survey, you will see that there are a broad variety of RV enthusiasts.
> This is good! Otherwise our RV gatherings would be extremely boring. Imagine
> 106 RV-8's or 106 RV-9A's at one fly-in? The bottom line is that you end up
> building what you like, not what the other guy like. He doesn't have to fly
> it, does he? We should always respect each other for our own personal
> preferences since this is a big part of who we are.
>
> I apologize in advance if I stir up negative posts as a result of this.
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | efortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Blow it out your ass |
I havent gotten into this and won't have any further replys but I do wish you guys
would clean up your language and get over it and back to RV's.
Earl RV4
ClecoToo(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Another typical love letter from the bully crowd who dominate your rv list
> list. This one from MeangreenRV4 sent to my private e-mail and I am just
> returning it as a favor. cleco
>
> From: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com
> Full-name: MeangreenRV4
> Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 23:43:52 EDT
> Subject: Blow it out your ass
> To: ClecoToo(at)aol.com
>
>
> It seems to me Meangreen I am the one that does not care if it has a
> nosewheel or not as stated in my earlier post and you guys like to bash those
> of us who have nose gear projects so you can feel all puffed up about your
> self. Some part of you inside must be very small to fixate on such things and
> choose to attack people you do not know just because they chose a trike gear
> airplane. What a bunch of crap. Oh, you can shove your bloated opinion too,
> do like your airplane though. Jerry said "bring it on" and I assure you that
> some of you guys come up to me at a flyin after sweating blood to build
> something and start ribbing a total stranger about a sissy nose gear and
> other baloney--I will not be the one who politely sits there and takes it. Do
> not archive. cleco
>
> Your an idiot...I don't care if your nose wheel is up front, in the back or
> up your ass. It pisses every body off (me included) when somebody like you
> post bullshit like this on a public service.
>
> -- RV-List message posted by: ClecoToo(at)aol.com
>
>
It seems to me Meangreen I am the one that does not care if it has a
>
nosewheel or not as stated in my earlier post and you guys like to bash those
>
of us who have nose gear projects so you can feel all puffed up about your
>
self. Some part of you inside must be very small to fixate on such things and
>
choose to attack people you do not know just because they chose a trike gear
>
airplane. What a bunch of crap. Oh, you can shove your bloated opinion too,
>
do like your airplane though. Jerry said "bring it on" and I assure you that
>
some of you guys come up to me at a flyin after sweating blood to build
>
something and start ribbing a total stranger about a sissy nose gear and
>
other baloney--I will not be the one who politely sits there and takes it. Do
>
not archive. cleco
>
>
Your an idiot...I don't care if your nose wheel is up front, in the back or
>
up your ass. It pisses every body off (me included) when somebody like you
>
post bullshit like this on a public service.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Building Quality (long) |
Ed Bundy says:
> Probably the hardest thing about building an airplane for the first time
is
> knowing what the acceptable standards are.
Well spoken!
Boeing's plans and those of all thriving manufacturers include information
on what is acceptable. Dimensions read like:
13.25 + 0.0 - 0.25
meaning - length is 13.25 and no more but can be as short as 13.0
Rivet spacing might be specified as 1.25 +0.0 - 0.25 for example. Builder
experience applies meaning that builder knows what others do, what
inspectors will go for and what makes for a safe product.
Someone with organizing skills should get rvlisters to put together some
acceptable standards for RV builders. Some standards already exist, of
course, (FAA part 43?) so no need to repeat all that. No need either to
specify appearance standards as those are really builder decisions.
A former co-worker said, "Best is the enemy of better". I wonder how many
builders fail to complete their RV due to their demand for excessive
standards? I suspect that many RVs are overbuilt meaning too much time and
money expended and too heavy.
We builders need more skills than A&Ps or even IAs. We need engineering
skills since we *do* make engineering decisions every day.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Scotchbrite wheels |
Van's also carries them Check in the accesories catalog.
Laird
RV-6 SoCal
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Thu, Jun 21, 2001 10:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Scotchbrite wheels
>
> Hi, I see mentioned builders using "scotchbrite" wheels. I
> remember using
> them way back when I was a car mechanic, but now can't seem to find
> them.
> Anybody have suppliers, part no's , etc. where I can get them?
> Thanks
> Ben Hubbard Quogue N.Y. -8 empennage
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Guys,
Just a reminder that the Jackpot Air Race is coming up on July 7-9. Gary
Hanson and I are coordinating the Home Wing's participation since we
attended last year. Gary has booked a block of rooms at a good rate. If
you're interested please let Gary know at slhanson(at)onemain.com and call
Cactus Pete's to guarantee the room in your name. So far we have six planes
committed and several maybes. We also have a couple of back seats open if
any non-flying builders are interested. At least some of us will be
departing from Twin Oaks after the Chapter 105 breakfast at 9:30-10:00 on
7/7 to fly over.
Lest you get the wrong idea, this is not a hard core intimidating event, but
rather a casual fun event that does indeed find out who's airplane is the
fastest. I wrote an article on my participation as a non-pilot last year for
the Home Wing newsletter. If you're interested you can go to the Home Wing
web site at www.vanshomewing.org and download the August 200 issue.
We hope to have a respectable turnout of RVs this year (the Eze guys put it
on) and hope to see you there.
Randy Lervold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Blow it out your ass |
In a message dated 6/21/01 12:37:08 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
ClecoToo(at)aol.com writes:
>
> Another typical love letter from the bully crowd who dominate your rv list
> list. This one from MeangreenRV4 sent to my private e-mail and I am just
> returning it as a favor. cleco
>
>
It was said best by Sam Buchanan
The problem with arguing with a fool is that to a bystander, it looks like
two fools arguing.
"I'm not going to be the other fool"
Signed (AKA) bully crowd "one of the dominate ones"
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV-4
N39TB (Flying Every Day)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roy Vosberg <Roy.Vosberg(at)veritas.com> |
| Subject: | RV-poll Results... |
But the interesting stat is that for centerline seating only 16 want the
other wheel up front, while 57 want it at the back. That's a huge margin
for those wannabe P-51 type driver's (Doug R. not included).
Roy idle RV-6 emp builder (next project will be centerline seating)
-----Original Message-----
From: Are Barstad [mailto:abarstad(at)sympatico.ca]
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 12:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-poll Results...
Incidently... tallying up the numbers, it shows that 110 of us wants the
training wheel up front and _only_ 104 of us wants the training wheel on the
tail.
There you have it!
If you like to see the official graph of the survey, you can see it here (so
there will be no doubt that ballots from Florida weren't counted :) ):
http://pub.alxnet.com/poll?id=2103619&q=view
Are
RV-8 Wings
www.ontariorvators.org VAF-OW
>
> From: "Barstad, Are" <BarstadA(at)bis.adp.com>
> Date: 2001/06/21 Thu AM 09:17:52 EDT
> To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
> Subject: RV-List: RV-poll Results...
>
>
> After 214 votes in only a short period I have decided to close the RV-Poll
> with the subject: "If you were to start building a new RV, which one would
> you prefer?" I should have included Rockets and 6's I guess but it was too
> late. Anyway, here are the results with the RV in most demand on the top:
>
> RV-7A: 66 votes
> RV-7: 47 votes
> RV-8: 41 votes
> RV-9A: 28 votes
> RV-8A: 16 votes
> RV-4: 14 votes
> RV-3: 2 votes
>
> Total 214 votes
>
> Please keep in mind that my idea of the poll was not to find out which RV
is
> the best. Personally I think the survey proves what most of us already
knew:
> There are several reasons for building what we like. From a quick glance
at
> the survey, you will see that there are a broad variety of RV enthusiasts.
> This is good! Otherwise our RV gatherings would be extremely boring.
Imagine
> 106 RV-8's or 106 RV-9A's at one fly-in? The bottom line is that you end
up
> building what you like, not what the other guy like. He doesn't have to
fly
> it, does he? We should always respect each other for our own personal
> preferences since this is a big part of who we are.
>
> I apologize in advance if I stir up negative posts as a result of this.
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Building Quality (long) |
Sorry for intrusion. My Message to Ed bounced when sent off list.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 1:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Building Quality (long)
Ed, can I use your message as part of our Technical Counselor inspection
program?
It will appear in an Experimenter issue.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 11:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Building Quality (long)
Probably the hardest thing about building an airplane for the first time is
knowing what the acceptable standards are. Everyone wants to build a safe
airplane, and everyone *starts out* wanting to build a perfect airplane.
Sooner rather than later you realize that this isn't going to happen and you
start trying to figure out what is excellent/good/acceptable/unairworthy.
So you start really paying attention to the construction of every airplane
you can get near.
Early on I was fortunate enough to be able to bend the ear of an I/A that I
really respect. I would bring him parts that I was crushed over "screwing
up". Some of them were in fact screwed up, while on others would cause him
to look at me funny and say "You're worried about that? That will outlast
every other piece of the airframe!" I poked my nose into a C210 wing
inspection hole one day and was amazed by the huge spar rivets that had
their shop heads driven almost flat! I asked the I/A about it and he said
they certainly should be thicker but that it only compromises about 5% of
their integrity and it would cause more damage to drill them out and put new
ones in. After seeing that, NONE of my work seemed less than perfect.
Some people think that only the best is good enough. That's great for those
people. Unfortunately sometimes those people make it difficult for us
mortals to believe that we will ever finish an airplane if those standards
have to be met. I still give a friend of mine a hard time about an event
that happened in my hangar one day. This person is *very* meticulous and
had been having some difficulty getting a non-structural part to arrive at
his satisfaction. He wanted to look at the part on my airplane to see how I
did it. (I don't even remember what it was now) As he was looking at it,
the proverbial light bulb went off over his head and he said "Oh, it doesn't
HAVE to be perfect!". I started laughing, and he looked mortified and kept
saying, "I didn't mean it like that!
I still keep that in mind to this day. Sure, there are some things that
have to be perfect but most don't, and *merely* very good is plenty good
enough. You just need to find out what the differences are.
Build it strong and safe, and then balance cosmetic perfection against how
long you want to be on the ground.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)micron.net
> The other day we were boarding a B737 to go on a trip with her family when
I
> pointed out some of the rivets that you can see from inside the jetway to
> her. (Door parts and a few flush rivets in the skin)
>
> She said, "I can do a better job than that!", and she is right. Her
brother
> laughed thinking that she was joking. When I told him that, in fact, she
> has DONE better than that, he got this very unusual look on his face. It
> was interesting to see the facial expressions made by the crew as well.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | I am very sorry I started this.... |
I am the poor sucker that started the RV9 argument. The guy that made the
"trainer" comment was JOKING!! Good natured fun. I was NOT offended. I
took it in the ribbing nature that was intended - I wish you all would. I
only mentioned it here to create some fun banter but sadly it got out of
hand. I apologize to all for opening the can of worms. One of you offered
to buy me a beer and enjoy the conradry of RV flying. I accept!
...sheepish in Seattle
Kim Nicholas
RV9 wings
(address withheld for security reasons....)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> |
| Subject: | RV-poll Results... |
RV-4 builders were too busy trying to read the !
##$@% plans to vote.
Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, finishing.
-----Original Message-----
From: Van Artsdalen, Scott [mailto:svanarts(at)unionsafe.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 7:20 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-poll Results...
RV-4's only got 14 votes?! I demand a recount! I want to personally check
each chad! Are you sure there weren't dimpled ballots?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Adminstrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
"Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant,
for those who foolishly think that somehow they
can achieve success without paying the price."
-----Original Message-----
From: Barstad, Are [mailto:BarstadA(at)bis.adp.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 6:18 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-poll Results...
After 214 votes in only a short period I have decided to close the RV-Poll
with the subject: "If you were to start building a new RV, which one would
you prefer?" I should have included Rockets and 6's I guess but it was too
late. Anyway, here are the results with the RV in most demand on the top:
RV-7A: 66 votes
RV-7: 47 votes
RV-8: 41 votes
RV-9A: 28 votes
RV-8A: 16 votes
RV-4: 14 votes
RV-3: 2 votes
Total 214 votes
Please keep in mind that my idea of the poll was not to find out which RV is
the best. Personally I think the survey proves what most of us already knew:
There are several reasons for building what we like. From a quick glance at
the survey, you will see that there are a broad variety of RV enthusiasts.
This is good! Otherwise our RV gatherings would be extremely boring. Imagine
106 RV-8's or 106 RV-9A's at one fly-in? The bottom line is that you end up
building what you like, not what the other guy like. He doesn't have to fly
it, does he? We should always respect each other for our own personal
preferences since this is a big part of who we are.
I apologize in advance if I stir up negative posts as a result of this.
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Reiff" <Reiff(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Trim cable installation |
I didn't see any replies on the list to my question yesterday, but I asked
Van's and here is Gus Funnell's answer in case anyone is interested:
> 1) I am interested in the modified method in which the manual trim
> cable runs along the elevator root rib rather than through the HS spar
> and inside the elevator per plans. But I'm wondering about the
> geometry...the plans method places the cable perpendicular to the trim
> tab hinge so the cable moves fore and aft linearly. With the modified
> method, the cable is parallel to the root rib which is NOT
> perpendicular to the hinge, so as the cable end moves fore and aft it
> also swings right and left, ie. it bends the cable. Does this stress
> the cable, or is it nothing to worry about?
It would be OK. The cable is free to move about 8 degrees at the
end.
> 2) It's probably in the manual but I can't find it...what is the
> degree of travel required for the RV4 trim tab (degrees up and down).
>
I don't think it is specified. The cable travel and horn geometry set
it, and you won't use full up or down trim unless the airplane is way
out of CG limits
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: D.A.R. inspection |
Jerry,
Congrats! And Thanks!
Mike
>From: "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: D.A.R. inspection
>Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 19:24:34 -0700
>
>
>Yes, they did look at both my POH and my construction log. Fortunately, I
>used Mike Robertson's POH and adapted it to my plane, inserting the
>appropriate weight and balance data. They were very complimentary (thanks,
>Mike!). They did what I thought a D.A.R. should do, asking questions to see
>if I actually built the plane, like "what kind of rivets did you use on the
>step, did you balance the elevator?" He also asked questions like "what is
>your rotation speed...what is your accelerate-stop distance, what is your
>maneuvering speed?" The things that I was iffy on, he said he just wanted
>me
>to think about these things. Good luck.
>
>Jerry
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Im7shannon(at)aol.com>
>To:
>Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 7:27 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: D.A.R. inspection
>
>
> >
> > Jerry, did they look closely at your checklists and POH for accuracy and
> > completeness?
> > Kevin -9A
> > Apex WA
> > mine's tomorrow
> >
> > > Listers,
> > >
> > > The D.A.R. (actually, a man-and-wife team here) inspected my airplane
> > > yesterday
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Reiff" <Reiff(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | RV-poll Results... |
It would be interesting to see what the results would be if the question
were posed as "Assuming all kits were brought up to current state of the
art, which one would you prefer?" That is, all kits are CAD designed, are
equally prepunched, and have CAD drawings. I wonder how many of the RV8
responses would be RV4 if the 4 kit was more current (easier).
> After 214 votes in only a short period I have decided to close the RV-Poll
> with the subject: "If you were to start building a new RV, which one would
> you prefer?" I should have included Rockets and 6's I guess but it was too
> late. Anyway, here are the results with the RV in most demand on the top:
>
> RV-7A: 66 votes
> RV-7: 47 votes
> RV-8: 41 votes
> RV-9A: 28 votes
> RV-8A: 16 votes
> RV-4: 14 votes
> RV-3: 2 votes
>
> Total 214 votes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I and some friends bent my longerons this morning according to the template
on drawing 17A. The next step is to put the F-721 B Aft Canopy Deck piece
on the longeron curve and drill the longeron to fit F-721 B.
Problem is the curve on F-721 B is slightly shallower than on the template.
Tom at Van's said it is not a problem and to go ahead and the longeron is
likely overbent on purpose. What have others done at this point? I would
have to flatten the curve a bit to be able to match drill F-721 B to the
longeron.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
Working on fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | RV-poll Results... |
Or---how about if money were no object---I'd go for a 4 and wait for the 4
seater---since I probably won't be able to own 2 planes. I opted for the 9A.
But---there's always the option to sell one and build another. That's why my
172 is gone now. Always other options.
Greg Tanner
RV-9A WINGS
O-320 D1A/CATTO
N80BR RESERVED
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bob Reiff
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 2:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-poll Results...
It would be interesting to see what the results would be if the question
were posed as "Assuming all kits were brought up to current state of the
art, which one would you prefer?" That is, all kits are CAD designed, are
equally prepunched, and have CAD drawings. I wonder how many of the RV8
responses would be RV4 if the 4 kit was more current (easier).
> After 214 votes in only a short period I have decided to close the RV-Poll
> with the subject: "If you were to start building a new RV, which one would
> you prefer?" I should have included Rockets and 6's I guess but it was too
> late. Anyway, here are the results with the RV in most demand on the top:
>
> RV-7A: 66 votes
> RV-7: 47 votes
> RV-8: 41 votes
> RV-9A: 28 votes
> RV-8A: 16 votes
> RV-4: 14 votes
> RV-3: 2 votes
>
> Total 214 votes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John & Teresa Huft" <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Canopy, how to attach to frame ?? |
Has anyone used riv-nuts set in the frame to hold the canopy on? Seems like
that would be the way to control the tension of the fasteners, without nuts
on the inside....
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of kempthornes
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 9:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Canopy, how to attach to frame ??
> The other question: Somewhere in the past I saw reference to some
builders
> using screws instead of rivits to attach the canopy. If this is the case
I
> would
> much appreciate hearing about the details.
Tom,
I used screws for permanent attachment on my 6A. Stainless with nylocs.
Nuts are visible on the inside of the canopy and it doesn't bother me but
does others. Ideally there would be no holes drilled in the plexi. The
design should be such that plexi is held just as you would glass, like a
window with a frame.
Using pop rivets as temp fasteners seems really wrong to me. One of the
features of threaded fasteners to build anything is that it can be taken
back apart for service. Van's fabulous little airplanes are not meant to be
serviced, I guess. When it breaks, build another.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Swiss Cheese Sub Panel |
It appears to me that the sub panel (on the 6 tip up)
is there soley for the aft row of rivets of the
forward skin. Mine is hacked all to hell..the whole
bottom portion removed. There is just enough to keep
it rigid...sounds like it could be a Van's question,
though.
====
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Getting Close
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9 Longerons Problem Solved |
Problem Solved:
The difficulty I experienced came about because I erroneously assumed the
template and F-721 B to be concerned with the same part of the curve. F-721
B incorporates part of the uncurved portion on the longeron. The error
probably arose from trying to bend the longerons and measure the result
without any lubricant. = :
)
Albert Gardner
----- Original Message -----
> I and some friends bent my longerons this morning according to the
template
> on drawing 17A. The next step is to put the F-721 B Aft Canopy Deck piece
> on the longeron curve and drill the longeron to fit F-721 B.
> Problem is the curve on F-721 B is slightly shallower than on the
template.
> Tom at Van's said it is not a problem and to go ahead and the longeron is
> likely overbent on purpose. What have others done at this point? I would
> have to flatten the curve a bit to be able to match drill F-721 B to the
> longeron.
> Albert Gardner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Projects in lower Michigan? |
I'll be leaving the heat and humidity of the SC Lowcountry and enjoying the lovely
summer Michigan weather during the 4th of July week...am driving up ('cause
I'm not finished with my RV-6!!!!) and will be in Hudsonville (near Grand Rapids
Monday 7/2 and Tuesday 7/3, and Roseville (Detroit suburb) Thursday 7/5 and
Friday 7/6 (possibly Saturday, too). In between golf in GR, and in-law visits
in
Roseville, I'd love to see a project or completed RV...anyone willing to lower
their standards enough to invite me out?
Semper Fi
John
RV-6 (ailerons and flaps...dinging up my fingers, riveting them together...)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Canopy, how to attach to frame ?? |
I've seen some on the web that have done it that way. Maybe Randy L.?
I've never used a rivnut, so maybe this is a dumb question, but wouldn't
they be prone to spin in the hole after you've screwed and unscrewed them a
couple times. Or if you over tightened. I don't know why you would do
either, but you never know.....
Larry Bowen
RV-8 canoe
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John & Teresa
> Huft
> Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 6:15 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-8 Canopy, how to attach to frame ??
>
>
>
>
> Has anyone used riv-nuts set in the frame to hold the canopy on?
> Seems like
> that would be the way to control the tension of the fasteners,
> without nuts
> on the inside....
>
> John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: I am very sorry I started this.... |
Knicholas2(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I am the poor sucker that started the RV9 argument. The guy that made the
> "trainer" comment was JOKING!! Good natured fun. I was NOT offended. I
> took it in the ribbing nature that was intended - I wish you all would. I
> only mentioned it here to create some fun banter but sadly it got out of
> hand. I apologize to all for opening the can of worms. One of you offered
> to buy me a beer and enjoy the conradry of RV flying. I accept!
>
> ...sheepish in Seattle
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9 wings
> (address withheld for security reasons....)
>
Hi Kim
If you go to the Arlington, WA flyin come by and say hello to my wife and I.
Jerry Springer
RV-6 N906GS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Yohannes Kayir" <yohannkayir(at)hotmail.com> |
Fellow Listers,
has anyone had experience recoating imron after it's cured?
Dupont imron specs. state that after imron has dried over 16 hours, it needs
to be sanded before recoating. It also states that imron may be applied
over older imron (meaning 8-10 years old).
Can good results be achieved by sanding and recoating or is it impossible?
What one does for repairs? Spot repairs or larger areas that have to be
blended in?
I started painting this week, just curious, if I make a Boo-Boo then
what???
Well, I might as well come out and say it, the job on the top and sides of
the fuselage turned out to my satisfaction. However on the belly of the
aircraft I did not do as good a job. No runs per say, but I have wet
streaks that stand out on the dry background. As opposed to a uniform wet
look throughout. It has been over 16 hours. Would I make a bigger mess by
playig with it? Shall I just leave it alone?
Thanks in advance
Yohann Kayir
RV4, finishing, painting
in Pcola.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Paint cowl interior? |
I'm up to my elbows in fiberglass (literally)
and was wondering...is it worthwhile to
paint the interior of the cowl? If not,
doesn't is soak up oil and the assorted sludge
that we find in other engine compartments?
If so, whaddya use?
Dave 'anonymous goo'Hyde
nauga(at)brick.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-poll Results... |
I didn't see the poll....so make that 15. Even with the lacking plans I
would still build the 4 if I started today. They're just not lacking enough
to discourage me....completely
Bill
-4 wings
> RV-4's only got 14 votes?! I demand a recount! I want to personally
check
> each chad! Are you sure there weren't dimpled ballots?
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Adminstrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
> "Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant,
> for those who foolishly think that somehow they
> can achieve success without paying the price."
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Barstad, Are [mailto:BarstadA(at)bis.adp.com]
> Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 6:18 AM
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RV-List: RV-poll Results...
>
>
> After 214 votes in only a short period I have decided to close the RV-Poll
> with the subject: "If you were to start building a new RV, which one would
> you prefer?" I should have included Rockets and 6's I guess but it was too
> late. Anyway, here are the results with the RV in most demand on the top:
>
> RV-7A: 66 votes
> RV-7: 47 votes
> RV-8: 41 votes
> RV-9A: 28 votes
> RV-8A: 16 votes
> RV-4: 14 votes
> RV-3: 2 votes
>
> Total 214 votes
>
> Please keep in mind that my idea of the poll was not to find out which RV
is
> the best. Personally I think the survey proves what most of us already
knew:
> There are several reasons for building what we like. From a quick glance
at
> the survey, you will see that there are a broad variety of RV enthusiasts.
> This is good! Otherwise our RV gatherings would be extremely boring.
Imagine
> 106 RV-8's or 106 RV-9A's at one fly-in? The bottom line is that you end
up
> building what you like, not what the other guy like. He doesn't have to
fly
> it, does he? We should always respect each other for our own personal
> preferences since this is a big part of who we are.
>
> I apologize in advance if I stir up negative posts as a result of this.
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 6/21/01 10:06:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
yohannkayir(at)hotmail.com writes:
> Well, I might as well come out and say it, the job on the top and sides of
> the fuselage turned out to my satisfaction. However on the belly of the
> aircraft I did not do as good a job. No runs per say, but I have wet
> streaks that stand out on the dry background. As opposed to a uniform wet
> look throughout. It has been over 16 hours. Would I make a bigger mess by
> playig with it? Shall I just leave it alone?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Yohann Kayir
> RV4, finishing, painting
> in Pcola.
I had to sand and re-shoot a few areas in the interior where the Imron dried
too fast (hint...don't spray in 100 degree weather). It turned out well. If
it somewhere less visible, I wouldn't have bothered. If you're not going for
a grand champion paint job, leave the fuselage belly alone. Nobody is gonna
notice.
On the other hand, if any part of my plane is championship quality, it is the
paint on the underside... Go figure.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy, how to attach to frame ?? |
----- Original Message -----
From: John & Teresa Huft <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com>
> Has anyone used riv-nuts set in the frame to hold the canopy on? Seems
like
> that would be the way to control the tension of the fasteners, without
nuts
> on the inside....
>
> John
>
I did. See my project on Randy L's web site: www.rv-8.com
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 N88MJ firewall stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
Fellow Listers:
Has anyone had any experience with David Clark's ENR headsets. I'm thinking
of upgrading and would like an unbiased opinion.
Thanks
Doug
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John & Teresa Huft" <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Canopy, how to attach to frame ?? |
Mike, very nice. Looks like you're coming right along.
So, how did the riv-nuts work out. Did any spin on you? Could you control
the tension of the screws? Would you do it again?
Thanks, John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michael J. Robbins
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 8:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Canopy, how to attach to frame ??
----- Original Message -----
From: John & Teresa Huft <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com>
> Has anyone used riv-nuts set in the frame to hold the canopy on? Seems
like
> that would be the way to control the tension of the fasteners, without
nuts
> on the inside....
>
> John
>
I did. See my project on Randy L's web site: www.rv-8.com
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 N88MJ firewall stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Todd's Canopies---RV-8/8A builders listen up! |
Sam
Todd uses acrylic (aka Plexiglass) as does Van's vendor.
Charlie Kuss
>
> Does Todd use Lexan or acrylic?
>
> >
> > Are
> > It should be pointed out that Todd's tinted canopy price of $600 INCLUDES
> > shipping. He gaurantees his canopies against cracking during installation
and
> > offers canopies in the standard 3/16" (before forming) and a thicker 1/4"
> > (before forming).
> > Charlie Kuss
> >
> > >
> > > I was interested in same post and e-mailed Todd myself. He verified that
he
> > > does not include 'scrap plastic' meaning that it will be pre-cut and
> > > finished. We only have to cut where the roll bar goes.
> > >
> > > I may be interested but it is still early for me. Please don't confuse the
> > > price of Van's tinted canopy though (in all fairness to Van's excellent
> > > prices). It is $577 w/tint and not $800 as you thought.
> > >
> > > Are
> > > RV-8 Wings
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> > > czechsix(at)juno.com
> > > Sent: June 20, 2001 5:18 PM
> > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > Subject: RV-List: Todd's Canopies---RV-8/8A builders listen up!
> > >
> > >
> > > If you want a clear canopy, it is $450 including shipping,
> > > handling, crating, etc....AND comes with an unconditional guarantee that
> > > if you crack it during installation, Todd will send you a new one free of
> > > charge. A tinted canopy is $600. (Vans canopies are around $800 I
> > > believe, and another $800 + S&H if you break one).
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint cowl interior? |
>I'm up to my elbows in fiberglass (literally)
>and was wondering...is it worthwhile to
>paint the interior of the cowl? If not,
>doesn't is soak up oil and the assorted sludge
>that we find in other engine compartments?
>If so, whaddya use?
>Dave 'anonymous goo'Hyde
>nauga(at)brick.net
Mr. Naugahyde (cool email address!)
I used a few rattle cans of white, high temp engine enamel as found at a
local auto parts store. It helps to seal that carbon pre-preg material which
WILL indeed soak up oil. The white color also brightens up the inside of
the cowling, making preflight inspection easier. It will also readily show
where you have oil leaks.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Longmont bound
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon Robertson <gordon(at)safemail.com> |
Hi folks,
Does anyone know the URL of a PPG website that describes the Concept
range of paints and primers? The www.ppg.com site is very confusing,
and it is difficult to find anything.
Using Google, I was able to find specific data sheets, for example DPLF
series primers at www.ppg.com/refinishftpsite/docs/p-196.pdf. But you
have to know what paint you want first, and I am not able to find a
general descripton of all their Concept series paints, what they are
used for, colors available, etc.
Anyone on the list who has researched this subject? Do you have the
URL ?
Gordon Robertson
RV8 fuse still upside down
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PPG Web-site ? |
Try http://www.ppg.com/cr-refinish/Phase1/frmHome.asp
Bruce
Glasair III
Gordon Robertson wrote:
>
> Hi folks,
>
> Does anyone know the URL of a PPG website that describes the Concept
> range of paints and primers? The www.ppg.com site is very confusing,
> and it is difficult to find anything.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FW:[SoCAL-RVlist] Let's go camping.... |
In a message dated 6/21/01 5:08:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Owens(at)aerovironment.com writes:
<< If your in the neighborhood, some of the SoCal gang are going to be
camping at Oceano (just north of Vandenburg) this Saturday night. We should
get there in the afternoon sometime and leave sometime Sunday. (We don't
like to plan TOO much)!
Just thought some of our friends up north might want to join in or stop bye
and say hi. >>
Laird-
I'm going to try and make it. I have a BFR scheduled in the morning but
should be finished around noon.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint cowl interior? |
Dave,
We will be spraying a white sealer/primer on the inside this weekend.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (final wiring)
Niantic, CT
>
>I'm up to my elbows in fiberglass (literally)
>and was wondering...is it worthwhile to
>paint the interior of the cowl? If not,
>doesn't is soak up oil and the assorted sludge
>that we find in other engine compartments?
>If so, whaddya use?
>
>Dave 'anonymous goo'Hyde
>nauga(at)brick.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: DC ANR headsets |
I've upgraded my DC headsets with the ANR upgrade available from
www,headsetsins.com
They work great!
-Glenn Gordon
N442E (reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 10:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: DC ANR headsets
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> Has anyone had any experience with David Clark's ENR headsets. I'm
thinking
> of upgrading and would like an unbiased opinion.
>
> Thanks
>
> Doug
>
> ================
> Doug Weiler
> Hudson, WI
> 715-386-1239
> dougweil(at)pressenter.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hey Charlie! RV-8 Canopy, how to attach to frame ?? |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
06/22/2001 07:59:54 AM
Larry, I have not used them either but fellow lister Charlie Kuss has a wiz
bang rivnut tool with a notching device that is supossed to prevent the nut
from spinning. I'm not clear how that works exactly because I have not yet
screwed up a dozen of them but I will soon. Maybe ole Charlie can give us a
run down on that.
Eric
"Larry Bowen" (at)matronics.com on 06/21/2001 07:35:25 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-8 Canopy, how to attach to frame ??
I've seen some on the web that have done it that way. Maybe Randy L.?
I've never used a rivnut, so maybe this is a dumb question, but wouldn't
they be prone to spin in the hole after you've screwed and unscrewed them a
couple times. Or if you over tightened. I don't know why you would do
either, but you never know.....
Larry Bowen
RV-8 canoe
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John & Teresa
> Huft
> Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 6:15 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-8 Canopy, how to attach to frame ??
>
>
>
>
> Has anyone used riv-nuts set in the frame to hold the canopy on?
> Seems like
> that would be the way to control the tension of the fasteners,
> without nuts
> on the inside....
>
> John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-6 Projects in lower Michigan? |
| From: | "blunist(at)pop.flash.net" <blunist(at)pop.flash.net> |
Hi John,
I am building an RV6 and would love to visit with you, however the Forth of July
week, I will be flying a hot air balloon in the United States Team Hot Air Balloon
Championships in Battle Creek, Mi. If you have any other dates, please
feel free to contact me.
Ted Gauthier
Pontiac, Mich
Fuselage
Original Message:
-----------------
From: John Lawson jwlawson(at)hargray.com
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 19:08:49 -0500
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Projects in lower Michigan?
I'll be leaving the heat and humidity of the SC Lowcountry and enjoying the lovely
summer Michigan weather during the 4th of July week...am driving up ('cause
I'm not finished with my RV-6!!!!) and will be in Hudsonville (near Grand Rapids
Monday 7/2 and Tuesday 7/3, and Roseville (Detroit suburb) Thursday 7/5 and
Friday 7/6 (possibly Saturday, too). In between golf in GR, and in-law visits
in
Roseville, I'd love to see a project or completed RV...anyone willing to lower
their standards enough to invite me out?
Semper Fi
John
RV-6 (ailerons and flaps...dinging up my fingers, riveting them together...)
Mail2Web - Check your email from the web at
http://www.mail2web.com/ .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint cowl interior? |
Dave,
You should not only paint the interior of the cowl, but also put some heat
resistant material in there. After 235 hrs on my S-cowl, I now have a large
blister on the outside of the cowl from the #2 pipe. I knew I should have
put some fiberfax in there but just couldn't get it together in time. Don't
make my mistake.
Rick Caldwell
-6 Melbourne, FL
>From: nauga(at)brick.net
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Paint cowl interior?
>Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 21:08:15 -0500
>
>
>I'm up to my elbows in fiberglass (literally)
>and was wondering...is it worthwhile to
>paint the interior of the cowl? If not,
>doesn't is soak up oil and the assorted sludge
>that we find in other engine compartments?
>If so, whaddya use?
>
>Dave 'anonymous goo'Hyde
>nauga(at)brick.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rpflanze(at)iquest.net |
| Subject: | Re: Paint cowl interior? |
Yes, it's a good idea. There are pin holes in the epoxy layer on the inside
and if any amount of oil is left there, it will eventually soak into the cowling.
I don't think it's a big deal really, but it will look ugly.
I used the same Imron that I used to paint the outside. I did glue on some
Fiberfrax where the exhaust is close to the bottom. Imron is good to 450 degrees
continuous and 500 degrees max.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (160 hours)
>
>I'm up to my elbows in fiberglass (literally)
>and was wondering...is it worthwhile to
>paint the interior of the cowl? If not,
>doesn't is soak up oil and the assorted sludge
>that we find in other engine compartments?
>If so, whaddya use?
>
>Dave 'anonymous goo'Hyde
>nauga(at)brick.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: DC ANR headsets |
Doug,
I have a 10-13XLS (Stereo) that is almost new that you can try and if you
like it you can buy. I bought it a couple years ago and was never satisfied
with it. I sent it in for warranty and they sent me a brand new one this
spring and it is not much better. Don't get me wrong, it works, but it will
not handle the Warbirds.
That offer goes to anyone on the list, We could agree to a price and I will
ship it to you on trial and if you like it send me a check if you don't send
it back.
I think the Headsets Inc conversion is the best unit out there except the
Bose and if you are in really hi noise airplane Headsets inc will take a
higher noise level before it overloads.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> Has anyone had any experience with David Clark's ENR headsets. I'm
thinking
> of upgrading and would like an unbiased opinion.
>
> Thanks
>
> Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "morganhetrick" <morganhetrick(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy, how to attach to frame ?? |
Rivnuts have a key that fits a keyway cut into the drilled hole.
Morgan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A QB control stick installation questions |
Fellow listers,
Thanks to all who responded to this...I've got the 633's in - now I gotta
make it work smoooooothly!
Ralph Capen
RV6A N822AR (rsvd) Got my MT prop yesterday too...yeeeehaw!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 6/21/01 10:25:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
KBoatri144(at)aol.com writes:
<< No runs per say, but I have wet
> streaks that stand out on the dry background. As opposed to a uniform wet
> look throughout. >>
On a previous project, that I am still flying, I have had similar situations
where I made repairs. I wet sanded with 400 and then 600 after the Imron had
dried for a week or so. It did not give the wet look of the Imron done
properly but did give a uniform appearance that was close. This might be
acceptable to you on the belly. You could try a small inconspicuous area to
see for your self.
Dale Ensing
6a - wishing I was ready to paint!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JCTV <jctv(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | New RV7a Bulider Needs Advice |
I need help setting up my work area. It is not very
big, but it's all I have. The room is 12ft x 22ft and
currently empty.
My question is what do I need in the way of a work
area? Work bench? Table? Tool area? Etc.
Thanks in advance.
Jeff Cook
(soon to be RV7a builder)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 wing & emp for sale |
Too much overtime at work and working on all my flying certs for the
forseeble future has me switching plans from a standard kit to a quick build
kit so I have a RV 8 wing for sale and empennage too if you want it.
The wing kit is untouched except for inventory. All parts still in original
bags and bundled up in original tape. It's essentially new though I've had
it for about 5 months now.
Any reasonable offer.
I live in Philadelphia.
Work # 610-591-5532
Lucky Macy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy, how to attach to frame ?? |
Where do I find a keyway makin' tool?
--- morganhetrick wrote:
>
> Rivnuts have a key that fits a keyway cut into the drilled hole.
>
> Morgan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New RV7a Bulider Needs Advice |
Jeff,
Sounds about like the size of a 1-car garage? This will work OK, others
have used less. I would make a work bench across the back of the12'
dimension for drill press, grinding wheel, disk sander, etc. In addition,
what I have found useful is an old drafting table that I converted into a
portable work bench that I can move around depending on what I'm working on.
I find that I do most of my work on the smaller work bench (about 3' by 5').
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hours TT
O-320, Hartzell C/S
RV-6, Fuselage
O-360, Hartzell C/S
>
> I need help setting up my work area. It is not very
> big, but it's all I have. The room is 12ft x 22ft and
> currently empty.
>
> My question is what do I need in the way of a work
> area? Work bench? Table? Tool area? Etc.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Jeff Cook
> (soon to be RV7a builder)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
The search feature in the PPG site doesn't work very well. I searched with
no keywords specified and got a listing of all spec sheets. Try clicking
this link:
http://www.ppg.com/cr-refinish/phase1/frmFindProduct.asp
This will provide a listing of all available spec sheets. Then use the
"Find" feature of your browser (under the Edit tab in IE) to search for
specific words such as "concept".
Here is the link for the Concept DCC spec sheet that I found using this
method:
http://www.ppg.com/refinishftpsite/docs/P-168.pdf
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
no more room in garage - building hangar
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
Hi folks,
Does anyone know the URL of a PPG website that describes the Concept
range of paints and primers? The www.ppg.com site is very confusing,
and it is difficult to find anything.
Using Google, I was able to find specific data sheets, for example DPLF
series primers at www.ppg.com/refinishftpsite/docs/p-196.pdf. But you
have to know what paint you want first, and I am not able to find a
general descripton of all their Concept series paints, what they are
used for, colors available, etc.
Anyone on the list who has researched this subject? Do you have the
URL ?
Gordon Robertson
RV8 fuse still upside down
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Barstad, Are" <BarstadA(at)bis.adp.com> |
| Subject: | New RV-Poll - primer choices |
Thanks to all that voted in our recent RV-Poll. I added a new poll last
night. The question is: "What type of primer did you use/are you primarily
using during building? (not external)". I hope I covered most of the
commonly used primer types. Your votes are greatly appreciated and again,
this is anonymous and I am not collecting e-mail addresses etc. Only 2 mouse
clicks are required.
You can get to it here: www.ontariorvators.org
<http://www.ontariorvators.org>
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: New RV7a Bulider Needs Advice |
If I may give an opinion to setting up a work area to new builders.Van
will give you a list of builders.visit 2 or 3 of them. The RV
people are the best bunch in all of aviation bar none.They will suprise
you , the quality of the people in RV builder groups are the best in the
world.
Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | New RV7a Bulider Needs Advice |
Jeff,
You have about the same area I do in my family room, which will work for the
empennage and wings but I will have to do the fuselage in the garage (poor
wife's car). I have 2 benches which are basically solid oak office doors.
They provide excellent support for back riveting. Most large office
buildings will give them to you for nothing. My 3rd bench is actually the
crate for my wing kit. I turned it upside-down and clamped it into those
portable sawhorse tables, one on each end. I can raise and lower it to
match my other benches. You will want to gat all the staples out of it or
drive them below the wood surface so you wont scratch your skins. You can
see some pictures of the shop at http://members5.clubphoto.com/jack381669/.
Have fun!
Jack
RV8, tanks
DSM
Subject: RV-List: New RV7a Bulider Needs Advice
I need help setting up my work area. It is not very
big, but it's all I have. The room is 12ft x 22ft and
currently empty.
My question is what do I need in the way of a work
area? Work bench? Table? Tool area? Etc.
Thanks in advance.
Jeff Cook
(soon to be RV7a builder)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New RV7a Bulider Needs Advice |
There is a HUGE amount of info on setting up the shop in the RV-list
archives. A couple of searches will yield the answers to nearly all
questions in this regard.
Scanning through various builder websites will also be very helpful. You
can get a list of builder sites on the Van's "Links" page.
Welcome to the group of crazies known as "RV Builders"!
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/sbuc/journal
===========
pat_hatch wrote:
>
>
> Jeff,
>
> Sounds about like the size of a 1-car garage? This will work OK, others
> have used less. I would make a work bench across the back of the12'
> dimension for drill press, grinding wheel, disk sander, etc. In addition,
> what I have found useful is an old drafting table that I converted into a
> portable work bench that I can move around depending on what I'm working on.
> I find that I do most of my work on the smaller work bench (about 3' by 5').
>
> Pat Hatch
> RV-4, N17PH @ VRB, 700 hours TT
> O-320, Hartzell C/S
> RV-6, Fuselage
> O-360, Hartzell C/S
>
> >
> > I need help setting up my work area. It is not very
> > big, but it's all I have. The room is 12ft x 22ft and
> > currently empty.
> >
> > My question is what do I need in the way of a work
> > area? Work bench? Table? Tool area? Etc.
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Jeff Cook
> > (soon to be RV7a builder)
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rivnut in canopy frame |
| From: | "John Allen" <fliier(at)onebox.com> |
I also used Rivnuts in the canopy frame to attach the plexi, but only
in the back of my slider. The holes in the plexi are drilled oversize
and there are nylon washers between the plexi and the lip of the rivnuts.
I used Pro-seal on the underside of the aft canopy skirt so the aluminum
is not sitting on the plexi.
If I were to do it again I would probably use nutserts. Functionally
they are are the same as a rivnut and are applied with the same tool.
However, the head is almost flush with the surface. They require a slightly
bigger hole to be drilled, though I think the required working depth
is less.
--
John Allen
RV6A. 37.5 hours into a 40 hour test period
Sign Up Now! http://www.onebox.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 Canopy, how to attach to frame ?? |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: RV-8 Canopy, how to attach to frame ??
Thread-Index: AcD7IRpRoGC21MyES5qYmb7KvFKqPgADJ6kg
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
I did a test a while back with a rivnut and an AN3 bolt. I just drilled
a hole per the instructions (no keyway) into a piece of .032 scrap and
used the pop-riveter mandrel to pull the rivnut. I then installed the
bolt and really cranked it down and got it to turn, but it took some
effort. For practical purposes if you follow the recommended torque
values for the screw or bolt then you should be fine. Especially if you
use them on them on the canopy frame where you want your screws barely
snug.
Bob Japundza
RV6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
-----Original Message-----
From: morganhetrick [mailto:morganhetrick(at)msn.com]
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 8:03 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Canopy, how to attach to frame ??
Rivnuts have a key that fits a keyway cut into the drilled hole.
Morgan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint cowl interior? |
Another reason for painting the inside of the cowl
(especially the lower) is that it aids in the smooth
flow of air out the cowl. Larry Vetterman swears that
it gives you 3-4 mph if you get the inside smooth.
====
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Getting Close
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Benson, Bradley" <bbenson(at)trane.com> |
| Subject: | New RV7a Bulider Needs Advice |
Hi Jeff,
I faced this same decision last November when I ordered my RV6A - I have
almost exactly the same workspace that you do. Here's what I came up with
:
1) I built two of the 'EAA Standardized Workbenches'. These are 2'x5'
benches; I used one for my bench-mounted tools (drill press, vise, grinder,
etc.) and the other is my work table. Total cost was about $80 for lumber
for the two of them. You can find plans on the web (search for the EAA
workbench) or from Sport Aviation.
2) The benches are up against the side wall (20' long) and are space about
four feet apart. In between the benches lives my air compressor. It
doesn't take up any extra room in this location, and is easily accessible
from either bench.
3) I hung a 4x4 pegboard for tools above one of the benches. This is where
my most-used tools go and I have wrenches, pliers, snips, hammers, etc.
hanging here.
4) I hung some shelves above the second bench. I got the heavy duty double
row shelf brackets for three shelves. The top shelf is 22" deep and is
where my flaps, ailerons, and elevators are currently stored (yes they all
fit quite easily!) The middle shelf has my plans, binders, and useful
reference stuff. The bottom shelf has the organizer cabinets which contain
the small tools (numbered drill bits, dimple die and rivet sets, etc.) and
small parts (rivets, nuts, bolts, etc.).
5) Along the back wall are two screws about five feet or so apart with
safety wire strung between them. Along with a couple of alligator clips,
it holds the plan sheet I am using in a location where I can easily refer to
it and where it is not in the way of anything else.
I'm still getting the hang of building, but I am really pleased with my shop
layout so far. Welcome to the club!
Cheers,
Brad Benson
RV6AQB...
-----Original Message-----
From: JCTV [mailto:jctv(at)yahoo.com]
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 8:59 AM
Subject: RV-List: New RV7a Bulider Needs Advice
I need help setting up my work area. It is not very
big, but it's all I have. The room is 12ft x 22ft and
currently empty.
My question is what do I need in the way of a work
area? Work bench? Table? Tool area? Etc.
Thanks in advance.
Jeff Cook
(soon to be RV7a builder)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | FW:[SoCAL-RVlist] Let's go camping.... |
Hi Gary,
Glad your going to try to make it. You can see the live weather at L52 at:
www.aircamp.com
One of the guys on the list has some pictures of L52 at:
http://www.m20j.com/camping/l52.html
Looks like we'll get up there sometime around noon to 2 or so.
See you there.
Laird
----------
From the SoCal list:
Saturday camping at Oceano
Hello all,
We are not sure yet what time everyone is planning to leave.
Probably late morning (like 11 -12). So far there are 9 airplanes
going, 6 RV's and 3 Cessna's (Brad RV-4, Werner RV-6A, John RV-6, Laird
RV-6, Dwain RV-6, Tom RV-6, Van C-175, Todd C-172, and a C-150 - watch
your 6!). The weather looks ok so far and you can go to www.aircamp.com
for a live web cam of Oceano, then click on the camping report by Dan
Checkoway (rvlist participant). Looks like there are showers and hot
water. We won't be roughing it very much. Any Cable Squadron going?
Someone gave me my cold back, so I'm pounding the Vitamin C. Hope to
see you all in Oceano around 2.
Redtail
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Fri, Jun 22, 2001 7:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: FW:[SoCAL-RVlist] Let's go camping....
In a message dated 6/21/01 5:08:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Owens(at)aerovironment.com writes:
<< If your in the neighborhood, some of the SoCal gang are going to be
camping at Oceano (just north of Vandenburg) this Saturday night. We should
get there in the afternoon sometime and leave sometime Sunday. (We don't
like to plan TOO much)!
Just thought some of our friends up north might want to join in or stop bye
and say hi. >>
Laird-
I'm going to try and make it. I have a BFR scheduled in the morning but
should be finished around noon.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PPG Web-site ? |
Try http://www.ppg.com/cr-refinish/phase1/frmProductInfo.asp?Cat=9
Note that Concept is part of the Deltron family.
Randy Lervold
>
> Hi folks,
>
> Does anyone know the URL of a PPG website that describes the Concept
> range of paints and primers? The www.ppg.com site is very confusing,
> and it is difficult to find anything.
>
> Using Google, I was able to find specific data sheets, for example DPLF
> series primers at www.ppg.com/refinishftpsite/docs/p-196.pdf. But you
> have to know what paint you want first, and I am not able to find a
> general descripton of all their Concept series paints, what they are
> used for, colors available, etc.
>
> Anyone on the list who has researched this subject? Do you have the
> URL ?
>
> Gordon Robertson
> RV8 fuse still upside down
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paint cowl interior? |
> I'm up to my elbows in fiberglass (literally)
> and was wondering...is it worthwhile to
> paint the interior of the cowl? If not,
> doesn't is soak up oil and the assorted sludge
> that we find in other engine compartments?
> If so, whaddya use?
I agree with the other responses that it should be sealed and/or painted to
keep oil from permeating the glass. I simply painted mine with the same
white PPG Concept I did the exterior with, then added adhesive back aluminum
foil. Here's a pic...
http://www.rv-8.com/Pictures/Mvc-515x.jpg
When I pull the plane back in the hangar after flying it the lower cowling
is barely warm to the touch, so I think that heat shield is working.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, N558RL, 46 hrs and lovin it!
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy, how to attach to frame ?? |
Some rivnuts have the key, some don't. You can use a small fine to make the
notch. There are other brands that really do a better job. Never had much
luck with
"Rivnuts"tm as they are all aluminum and will turn when the screw gets a
little corrosion.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 9:32 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Canopy, how to attach to frame ??
Where do I find a keyway makin' tool?
--- morganhetrick wrote:
>
> Rivnuts have a key that fits a keyway cut into the drilled hole.
>
> Morgan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
A short while ago, a few listers had installed VG's on their RV's
Does anyone have any updates? Were the results positive or negative?
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New RV7a Bulider Needs Advice |
Table space is key...as much as you can. Hang tools
on the wall, get them out of the way. Hang up your
plans, too. You can get some shop ideas on my
webpage..the link is below.
====
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Getting Close
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Are Barstad <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
If you haven't already, make sure to check out the extensive test/report from terry Jantzi. You can get to it by clicking 'Vortex Generators' on the main menu at this site: www.ontariorvators.org
Are
RV-8 Wings
>
> From: "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com>
> Date: 2001/06/22 Fri AM 11:58:42 EDT
> To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
> Subject: RV-List: VG Reports
>
>
> A short while ago, a few listers had installed VG's on their RV's
> Does anyone have any updates? Were the results positive or negative?
>
> Ed Cole
> RV6A N2169D Flying
> RV6A N648RV Finishing
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Paint cowl interior? |
Painting the inside is a good Idea. Painting it white is even a better idea.
This also applies to the inside of your sub panel, if you paint everything
white behind the panel it will be alot easier to see what you need to see
after the plane is done and you are crawling under the panel to work on it.
Kevin
> >I'm up to my elbows in fiberglass (literally)
> >and was wondering...is it worthwhile to
> >paint the interior of the cowl? If not,
> >doesn't is soak up oil and the assorted sludge
> >that we find in other engine compartments?
> >If so, whaddya use?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "morganhetrick" <morganhetrick(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy, how to attach to frame ?? |
One source is:
Cardinal Components
6130 W. Donges Bay Road
Mequon, WI 53092
Phone: 262.242.3200
Fax: 262.242.9030
TOLL FREE - 1-800-236-3200
Morgan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: New RV7a Bulider Needs Advice |
Get an air compressor with an upright tank, and put it in the laundry room.
Run a hose into your work room, and put an air dryer on it. If you have a
wife, make her go to the laundromat. This will keep her busy while you are
trying to work. If you dont have a wife, take your laundry to the cleaners,
you dont have time to do it yourself anyway since you are building an
airplane.
Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Swiss Cheese Sub Panel |
Paul wrote:
> It appears to me that the sub panel (on the 6 tip up)
> is there soley for the aft row of rivets of the
> forward skin.
However, the skin is stressed isn't it? Don't loads placed upon the skin
translate to the underlying structure - that is, the sub panel? I'd surely
put rings around large holes such as for radios.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PPG Web-site ? |
| From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
You found it if you can just convert it to english. Check out Randy's
homepage. I think he does a better job than the PPG comapany does. I
think it is RV-8.com.
Don Jordan - 6A - N6DJ - dons6a(at)juno.com - Arlington, TX
***********************************************************************
writes:
>
> Hi folks,
>
> Does anyone know the URL of a PPG website that describes the Concept
> range of paints and primers? The www.ppg.com site is very
> confusing,
> and it is difficult to find anything.
>
> Using Google, I was able to find specific data sheets, for example
> DPLF
> series primers at www.ppg.com/refinishftpsite/docs/p-196.pdf. But
> you
> have to know what paint you want first, and I am not able to find a
> general descripton of all their Concept series paints, what they are
> used for, colors available, etc.
>
> Anyone on the list who has researched this subject? Do you have
> the
> URL ?
>
> Gordon Robertson
> RV8 fuse still upside down
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paint cowl interior? |
| From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I did mine in epxoy & left over white acyrlic enamel. I highley
reccommend it.
Don Jordan - 6A - N6DJ - dons6a(at)juno.com - Arlington, TX
***********************************************************************
>
> I'm up to my elbows in fiberglass (literally)
> and was wondering...is it worthwhile to
> paint the interior of the cowl? If not,
> doesn't is soak up oil and the assorted sludge
> that we find in other engine compartments?
> If so, whaddya use?
>
> Dave 'anonymous goo'Hyde
> nauga(at)brick.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I tryed to spot a tip tank on a Bonanza one time & had to do the hole
tank. I would plain on doing a hole panel.
600 wet should give a good bold. the 2 things you need for the
polyurethanes are a clean shop cause it dries & flows for hours and needs
to be shoot wet.
Don Jordan - 6A - N6DJ - dons6a(at)juno.com - Arlington, TX
***********************************************************************
writes:
>
>
> Fellow Listers,
>
> has anyone had experience recoating imron after it's cured?
>
> Dupont imron specs. state that after imron has dried over 16 hours,
> it needs
> to be sanded before recoating. It also states that imron may be
> applied
> over older imron (meaning 8-10 years old).
>
> Can good results be achieved by sanding and recoating or is it
> impossible?
> What one does for repairs? Spot repairs or larger areas that have to
> be
> blended in?
>
> I started painting this week, just curious, if I make a Boo-Boo
> then
> what???
>
> Well, I might as well come out and say it, the job on the top and
> sides of
> the fuselage turned out to my satisfaction. However on the belly of
> the
> aircraft I did not do as good a job. No runs per say, but I have
> wet
> streaks that stand out on the dry background. As opposed to a
> uniform wet
> look throughout. It has been over 16 hours. Would I make a bigger
> mess by
> playig with it? Shall I just leave it alone?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Yohann Kayir
> RV4, finishing, painting
> in Pcola.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Swiss Cheese Sub Panel |
Yes, but you have 3 bulkheads/ribs that tie the sub
panel to the firewall. As long as the attach points
for the three ribs are in tact, I can't see where
underlying structure of the subpanel itself would
matter. From about 3 inches down all the way around my
sub panel has been eliminated. I can not flex that
panel anywhere along the row of rivets. Just a
thought, but mine sure did come out very strong. Once
again, I think some feedback from the Man at Van's
might be in order here.
====
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Getting Close
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <s6es116(at)yahoo.com> |
Could someone please clarify the proper assembly
procedure for OPTION #3 mentioned below? I think it
will prove most helpful in addressing my ongoing CG
problem, but I can't seem to find ANY reference to it
in my plans.
From: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com
Full-name: MeangreenRV4
Subject: Blow it out your ass
Your an idiot...I don't care if your nose wheel is up
front, in the back or up your ass......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gear placement |
The answer to scenario #3 is a simple law of physics. The mass of the wheel
will not fit in the same area your head is already occupying.
Kevin 994KS
Apex Airport WA
> Could someone please clarify the proper assembly
> procedure for OPTION #3 mentioned below? I think it
> will prove most helpful in addressing my ongoing CG
> problem, but I can't seem to find ANY reference to it
> in my plans.
>
>
> From: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com
> Full-name: MeangreenRV4
> Subject: Blow it out your ass
>
> Your an idiot...I don't care if your nose wheel is up
> front, in the back or up your ass......
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | stupid engine question |
Thread-Topic: stupid engine question
Thread-Index: AcD7RhqdT24W9vayQii1lhafyCLfvw=
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Hi Folks,
For any of you guys out there that have built a Lycoming up from
scratch, how do you know what length of pushrods you will need? I've
rebuilt a Jeep engine and had problems with valve float and pushrod
length, and am wondering how that works with the Lycosaurs. I guess
what I'm really asking is how do you measure for the right length when
putting the engine together. In the car world you can get adjustable
pushrods for measurement purposes, put them in temporarily and adjust
them, then measure. I'm starting to shop/educate myself on engine parts
that I will use in a 540. With the talk on crank prices recently I was
checking out the prices on cranks for 540's and they're significantly
cheaper than on the four-banger engines, around $3 grand for
yellow-tagged cranks.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
F1 tail in progress
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | stupid engine question |
I'm not sure on Lycomings because I haven't done one yet but on
Continentals, You collapse the lifter and install everything, rotate the
engine until the follower is on the heel of the cam and measure the
clearance at the valve stem. There's a min/max dimension and you have to
fall between that range. BTW---if you need custom length pushrods, I can
help!
Greg Tanner
RV-9A WINGS
O-320 D1A/CATTO
N80BR RESERVED
Greg Tanner
Smith Brothers Pushrods
800-367-1533
541-389-8840 fax
www.pushrods.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bob Japundza
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 11:07 AM
Subject: RV-List: stupid engine question
Hi Folks,
For any of you guys out there that have built a Lycoming up from
scratch, how do you know what length of pushrods you will need? I've
rebuilt a Jeep engine and had problems with valve float and pushrod
length, and am wondering how that works with the Lycosaurs. I guess
what I'm really asking is how do you measure for the right length when
putting the engine together. In the car world you can get adjustable
pushrods for measurement purposes, put them in temporarily and adjust
them, then measure. I'm starting to shop/educate myself on engine parts
that I will use in a 540. With the talk on crank prices recently I was
checking out the prices on cranks for 540's and they're significantly
cheaper than on the four-banger engines, around $3 grand for
yellow-tagged cranks.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
F1 tail in progress
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV-Aviation <RV-Aviation(at)gsm.uci.edu> |
| Subject: | FW:[SoCAL-RVlist] Let's go camping.... |
Hello,
Just talked to my wife, and we'd like to join you folks too tomorrow.
We'll be in a Cessna ... (I have pieces of an RV6 all over my dinning
room...one day).
Brent Allen
Brent_Allen(at)yahoo.com
FYI: I just rolled out Blackberry to our company yesterday, and Dan's site
has some neat wireless options (metars, ...) you can get while flying with
it. (I'd also like to buy an m20j while I'm building...)
http://www.m20j.com/wirelesstools.html
-----Original Message-----
From: Owens, Laird [mailto:Owens(at)aerovironment.com]
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 8:36 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: FW:[SoCAL-RVlist] Let's go camping....
Hi Gary,
Glad your going to try to make it. You can see the live weather at L52 at:
www.aircamp.com
One of the guys on the list has some pictures of L52 at:
http://www.m20j.com/camping/l52.html
Looks like we'll get up there sometime around noon to 2 or so.
See you there.
Laird
----------
From the SoCal list:
Saturday camping at Oceano
Hello all,
We are not sure yet what time everyone is planning to leave.
Probably late morning (like 11 -12). So far there are 9 airplanes
going, 6 RV's and 3 Cessna's (Brad RV-4, Werner RV-6A, John RV-6, Laird
RV-6, Dwain RV-6, Tom RV-6, Van C-175, Todd C-172, and a C-150 - watch
your 6!). The weather looks ok so far and you can go to www.aircamp.com
for a live web cam of Oceano, then click on the camping report by Dan
Checkoway (rvlist participant). Looks like there are showers and hot
water. We won't be roughing it very much. Any Cable Squadron going?
Someone gave me my cold back, so I'm pounding the Vitamin C. Hope to
see you all in Oceano around 2.
Redtail
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Fri, Jun 22, 2001 7:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: FW:[SoCAL-RVlist] Let's go camping....
In a message dated 6/21/01 5:08:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Owens(at)aerovironment.com writes:
<< If your in the neighborhood, some of the SoCal gang are going to be
camping at Oceano (just north of Vandenburg) this Saturday night. We should
get there in the afternoon sometime and leave sometime Sunday. (We don't
like to plan TOO much)!
Just thought some of our friends up north might want to join in or stop bye
and say hi. >>
Laird-
I'm going to try and make it. I have a BFR scheduled in the morning but
should be finished around noon.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gear placement |
In a message dated 6/22/01 11:09:00 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Im7shannon(at)aol.com writes:
> The answer to scenario #3 is a simple law of physics. The mass of the wheel
> will not fit in the same area your head is already occupying.
> Kevin 994KS
> Apex Airport WA
>
This list is turning into a real waste of time.... (another case of where a
FEW ruin it for the MANY!) hope this junk stops or I will soon be
"un-subscribing".
Suggestion: You guys ( are you REALLY "RV People"?) who seem to enjoy
arguing, fighting, whining, insulting each other, name calling etc etc.... do
it directly with each other, NOT on this list. I don't think this is what
Matt had in mind.
Thanks,
Walt RV-6A N79WH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | Re: New RV7a Bulider Needs Advice |
Hi Jeff, welcome to the family!
I'm building in about the same space, have a 3-1/2 x 8 foot workbench,
drill press, band saw and small table (movable) for files, clamps, drink
coaster etc. Prints are stapled to one long wall, shelves on the
other. Compressor is located in "her" part of the garage. One thing I
did that has worked very well is to build shelves (cubby-holes) under my
workbench where I keep all my hand tools, squeezer, drills (air &
battery) rivet gun, bucking bar collection etc. Very close at hand when
you need them and out of the way. It's a little crowded with the fuse
taking shape in there, but we're getting by. Still trying to figure out
how to mount the gear legs, tho!
Best of Luck from the PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips, nosewheel, MarHyde, tip-up, fixed-pitch, 'lectric trim,
all-electric, Lycosaur, amatuer-bilt 6A! -N321PW reserved!
JCTV wrote:
>
> I need help setting up my work area. It is not very
> big, but it's all I have. The room is 12ft x 22ft and
> currently empty.
>
> My question is what do I need in the way of a work
> area? Work bench? Table? Tool area? Etc.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Jeff Cook
> (soon to be RV7a builder)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
--- "Cole, Ed" wrote:
>
> A short while ago, a few listers had installed VG's on their RV's
> Does anyone have any updates? Were the results positive or negative?
>
> Ed Cole
Contact George Orndorf. I notice he had installed VG's on his bird
when I was up there to fly with Mike Seager. George liked them for the
low end, and said they had no affect he could tell on the high end.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "morganhetrick" <morganhetrick(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy, how to attach to frame ?? |
Rivnuts come in steel, stainless steel and aluminum.
They also come keyed or not keyed.
Morgan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: stupid engine question |
Building a Rocket huh? COOL! Pushrod lengths need to be determined after the
jugs are torqued onto the case, there are a variety of lengths available from
any Lyc. engine source. My engine guru calls it "playing musical pushrods"
Kevin
> Hi Folks,
>
> For any of you guys out there that have built a Lycoming up from
> scratch, how do you know what length of pushrods you will need? I've
> rebuilt a Jeep engine and had problems with valve float and pushrod
> length, and am wondering how that works with the Lycosaurs. I guess
> what I'm really asking is how do you measure for the right length when
> putting the engine together. In the car world you can get adjustable
> pushrods for measurement purposes, put them in temporarily and adjust
> them, then measure. I'm starting to shop/educate myself on engine parts
> that I will use in a 540. With the talk on crank prices recently I was
> checking out the prices on cranks for 540's and they're significantly
> cheaper than on the four-banger engines, around $3 grand for
> yellow-tagged cranks.
>
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
> F1 tail in progress
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Vincent,
Yes I must confess I got addicted to the Rocket first... then I found
out the difference in cost between building/operating. And of course
during my last stay at "Garden Pavilion Psychiatric Center", when the
counselor assured me that Rocket guys are just using those big IO-540's to
compensate for smaller genitalia; I decided I could live with an RV-4...
(at least until old age takes my sex drive or my bank account can support a
Rocket for me).
Chuck
"May you always fly with a tailwind, except on final."
----- Original Message -----
From: Frazier, Vincent A <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 8:54 AM
Subject: Manly Men
> Chuck,
>
> That's just because all the "manly men" are too busy building Rockets to
> reply! :-)
>
> I wonder how many of those RV-4 responses are really Rockets????
>
> Take care,
>
> Vince Frazier
> 3965 Caborn Road
> Mount Vernon, IN 47620
> 812-985-7309 home
> 812-464-1839 work
> Harmon Rocket II ... the fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
> http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html <---- note: new
> URL as of 5/30/01
>
> From: "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
> Subject: Fw: RV-List: RV-poll Results...
>
>
> Well I guess there are less "Manly Men" on this list then I thought.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
"RV-List Digest (E-mail)"
| Subject: | plating bolts to fix oversize spar bolt holes |
For all you guys that have to build your own wing spar:
I was cleaning the Stits epoxy primer paint out of my spar bolt holes using
an appropriately sized reamer (0.373" for the 3/8" holes, and so on). It
was going fine, until I inadvertantly picked up a stepped reamer that was
0.377" on the top part of the shank. Sure enough, I reamed one bolt hole
out to 0.377" and the NAS bolt was a sloppy fit. I hate when that happens!
I realize that one bolt probably wouldn't make any difference but I wanted
to fix it anyway. I thought about reaming up to the next size (10mm, IIRC),
but wasn't wild about that option. I could always do that later, and
besides, who wants one odd bolt in their spar?
Here's what worked for me: I contacted Caswell Plating
(www.caswellplating.com) and bought an 8oz. bottle of their CopyChrome
nickel plating solution. Following their directions, I plated the bolt up
to 0.377" then baked it at 400 F for 4 hours to take care of any hydrogen
embrittlement. It worked great.
I also plated some 4130 steel scraps and was pleased with their appearance.
It's not quite chrome, but it looks pretty good. The plating also looked
like it should be pretty durable. I even soaked a plated 4130 piece in
saltwater overnight and saw no effect.
I work in a lab and have access to all the power supplies, ovens, etc. I
needed, so it was an easy job. Any good scrounger can find the stuff needed
or Caswell will happily sell it to you.
If you want your piece to really shine you must polish it BEFORE you plate
it. I wouldn't attempt to plate anything much larger than you can submerge
in a gallon of liquid or less. The control sticks would probably be about
the max size I would attempt.
Vince Frazier
Harmon Rocket II ... the fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html <---- note: new
URL as of 5/30/01
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New RV7a Bulider Needs Advice |
jeff
remember my invitation to you, your welcome to come by my shop anytime and
have a look see.
scott
tampa
rv6a finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PlaneWizz(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Eugene Fly-In Aug 25th Tracy Saylor's Talk |
Boyd:
Good idea on having someone tape Tracy Saylor. I wouldn't mind having a copy
of such a tape myself.
Does anyone know if Tracy has ever been taped, made a video or published a
book on his RV6?
Dave Pohl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: plating bolts to fix oversize spar bolt holes |
Good site. They even have Aluminum Anodizing, gold plating, and chrome
plating kits at very reasonable prices.
>From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "Rocket-List Digest (E-mail)" ,
>"RV-List Digest (E-mail)"
>Subject: RV-List: plating bolts to fix oversize spar bolt holes
>Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 14:08:38 -0500
>
>
>For all you guys that have to build your own wing spar:
>
>I was cleaning the Stits epoxy primer paint out of my spar bolt holes using
>an appropriately sized reamer (0.373" for the 3/8" holes, and so on). It
>was going fine, until I inadvertantly picked up a stepped reamer that was
>0.377" on the top part of the shank. Sure enough, I reamed one bolt hole
>out to 0.377" and the NAS bolt was a sloppy fit. I hate when that happens!
>
>I realize that one bolt probably wouldn't make any difference but I wanted
>to fix it anyway. I thought about reaming up to the next size (10mm,
>IIRC),
>but wasn't wild about that option. I could always do that later, and
>besides, who wants one odd bolt in their spar?
>
>Here's what worked for me: I contacted Caswell Plating
>(www.caswellplating.com) and bought an 8oz. bottle of their CopyChrome
>nickel plating solution. Following their directions, I plated the bolt up
>to 0.377" then baked it at 400 F for 4 hours to take care of any hydrogen
>embrittlement. It worked great.
>
>I also plated some 4130 steel scraps and was pleased with their appearance.
>It's not quite chrome, but it looks pretty good. The plating also looked
>like it should be pretty durable. I even soaked a plated 4130 piece in
>saltwater overnight and saw no effect.
>
>I work in a lab and have access to all the power supplies, ovens, etc. I
>needed, so it was an easy job. Any good scrounger can find the stuff
>needed
>or Caswell will happily sell it to you.
>
>If you want your piece to really shine you must polish it BEFORE you plate
>it. I wouldn't attempt to plate anything much larger than you can submerge
>in a gallon of liquid or less. The control sticks would probably be about
>the max size I would attempt.
>
>Vince Frazier
>Harmon Rocket II ... the fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
>http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html <---- note: new
>URL as of 5/30/01
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Terra Avionics |
Dear Listers,
I just came back from Gulf Coast Avionics, and thought you guys that haven't
bought your nav /com radios, would be interested in this.
Todd showed me 2 sets of Terra nav coms with the Tri Nav C indicator. 1 set
has the glide slope receiver buit in, the other set doesn't have glide slope.
He has many Tri Nav's and a few Tri Nav C's.
These Terra radios are in high demand due to the small size and the tight
stacking qualities, perfect for the RV's with their limited panel space. He
also has a couple Terra 350 and 340 audio panels. sorry no transponders, they
are impossible to find.
I saw them with my own eyes and they look brand new, and are yellow tagged
ready for service.
If i didn't already have my Terra stack, I would have bought them myself.
if interested go to their webpage and give Todd a call. Tell him Scott sent
ya, he will probably give you a discount, ( since i spent a ka-trillion
dollars with him ).
Hope this helps someone.
SCOTT
TAMPA
RV- 6A 0360 C/S TIPPER
TAMPA
FINISHING
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ANTENNA'S AGAIN |
dear listers,
I just bought a few antenna's, in my effort to hide all the antenna's out of
the wind, what do you experts think about this?
1. mount the com wingtip antennia in the left wing tip. ( its the flexable
fiberglass tape kind.)
2. mount the marker beacon ant. ( boat ) under the engine inside the cowl.
3. mount the transponder ant. between the exhaust stacks right behind the
scoop.
4. mount the nav/loc/gs/vor ant. at the tail, underneath pointing rearward.
5. the ELT ant will stay a fixed wire that comes with the unit, and mount the
unit behind the passenger seat in the baggage area, pointing straight up.
that would leave only 1 ant. out in the wind (nav).
wow so many ants, i'll have to call Orcan.
scott
trampa
rv6a stomping ants one at a time.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Eugene Fly-In Aug 25th Tracy Saylor's Talk |
> Does anyone know if Tracy has ever been taped, made a video or
> published a book on his RV6?
Would be a good companion to Paser's Speed with Economy!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Garrett" <rlgarrett7(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | MT prop governor bracket |
I picked up my MT prop yesterday. It will go on a RV6A with an O-360
engine. I also got the MT governor, which is supposed to be a little
smaller, lighter, and newer design. Unfortunately, the prop cable
mounting bracket from Van's is only for the Woodward governor.
Naturally, it does not fit MT's governor. Has someone else already
solved the problem of building a mounting bracket for the MT governor?
Thanks!
Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | deltaB(at)erols.com |
| Subject: | paint, polished aluminum look-alike |
List,
Does anybody know what paint was used on the plastic parts of
the plane on the calendar from may 2001? I was thinking of
something similar.
Bernie C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paint cowl interior? |
Mix up some epoxy and a bit of micro balloons to increase the volume,
not too much micro as you want the mix to be wet enough to easily
squeegee around. Squeegee this mix on to the cowl in 12" sections. You
don't want to fill the pin holes or the weave, you just want to wet the
surface with epoxy so the foil will stick. Go steal your wife's aluminum
foil and carefully lay on one piece at a time, overlapping a 1/2" or so.
Use a 2" paint brush to seat the foil into the epoxy. Before you do this
you might want to glue a few pieces of Fiberfrax onto the cowl where the
pipes are a little too close. It's easy cheap and lite. The only
downside is you can gouge the foil it you aren't careful when doing
maintenance.
Garry RV6 Feds here next Wednesday!!!
nauga(at)brick.net wrote:
>
> I'm up to my elbows in fiberglass (literally)
> and was wondering...is it worthwhile to
> paint the interior of the cowl? If not,
> doesn't is soak up oil and the assorted sludge
> that we find in other engine compartments?
> If so, whaddya use?
>
> Dave 'anonymous goo'Hyde
> nauga(at)brick.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: New RV7a Bulider Needs Advice |
> Get an air compressor with an upright tank, and put it in the laundry
room.
> Run a hose into your work room, and put an air dryer on it. If you have a
> wife, make her go to the laundromat. This will keep her busy while you are
> trying to work.
If you are putting your compressor in the workshop - or the house I would
strongly suggest that you buy an oil bath (not "oiless") type of compressor.
The few extra bucks will save your marriage. If space is that tight mount
the compressor really close to the ceiling. It won't be a problem - just
unplug it at night. Just don't forget to climb up once in awhile to check
the oil level. You can vary the pressure at the gun with an in-line air
regulator (Avery Tools about $13.00). Good luck.
Ernest Kells RV-9A - Fuselage, O-235 Wood Prop
Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
After two and a half years, my RV-8A flew today for the first time. I'll
post numbers and pics on my website later. For now, I'll just say it was a
GAS! I don't think I've ever had that kind of rush flying. I'll repeat what
everyone before me has said - it's worth all the work!
Jerry Carter
Memphis, TN
My RV-8A website:
http://rv8asite.homestead.com/mainpage.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy, how to attach to frame ?? |
Larry,
I bought my Rivnut installer and the key notch tool for $72 including shipping
on EBay about 6 months ago. It works very nicely. I've already loaned it to a
local 8 builder. He used it to install keyed rivnuts into his canopy frame. It
worked out quite well.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A fuselage
Boca Raton, Fl.
> Where do I find a keyway makin' tool?
>
> --- morganhetrick wrote:
> >
> > Rivnuts have a key that fits a keyway cut into the drilled hole.
> >
> > Morgan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net> |
| Subject: | Alex Petersen at Maple Grove |
Hello Alex if you are out there.
I wanted to ask you a question about an old post of yours re the
nose wheel fairing, but cannot contact due to spam blocker.
Sorry to use the list for this, but if Alex is out there, please
email me if possible.
Thanks,
Austin Tinckler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: stupid engine question |
What you do is install the lifter assemblies dry so they
dont pump up. Then you measure the rocker arm to valve
clearance. LYC has clearance ranges that are acceptable
and specified.
Stewart RV4 CO, still working on fuel press problems
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
What is this stuff I keep hearing about?
====
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Getting Close
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Terra Avionics |
No Terra Avionics listed on his web page. At least that I could locate.
Help?
>
> Dear Listers,
> I just came back from Gulf Coast Avionics, and thought you guys that
haven't
> bought your nav /com radios, would be interested in this.
> Todd showed me 2 sets of Terra nav coms with the Tri Nav C indicator. 1
set
> has the glide slope receiver buit in, the other set doesn't have glide
slope.
> He has many Tri Nav's and a few Tri Nav C's.
> These Terra radios are in high demand due to the small size and the tight
> stacking qualities, perfect for the RV's with their limited panel space.
He
> also has a couple Terra 350 and 340 audio panels. sorry no transponders,
they
> are impossible to find.
> I saw them with my own eyes and they look brand new, and are yellow tagged
> ready for service.
> If i didn't already have my Terra stack, I would have bought them myself.
> if interested go to their webpage and give Todd a call. Tell him Scott
sent
> ya, he will probably give you a discount, ( since i spent a ka-trillion
> dollars with him ).
>
> Hope this helps someone.
>
> SCOTT
> TAMPA
> RV- 6A 0360 C/S TIPPER
> TAMPA
> FINISHING
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 6/22/01 7:16:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
pbesing(at)yahoo.com writes:
>
> What is this stuff I keep hearing about?
>
Fiberfrax is a glue-on flexible insulation that comes in thin sheets. It is
said to be useful for protecting cowlings from extremely high temperature
heat sources (up to 2300f according to the spec's), such as close by exhaust
systems. Aircraft Spruce and others sell it, along with a special glue.
I purchased an alternate product (koolmat) because the Aircraft Spruce rep I
spoke with said some people had trouble getting fiberfrax to stay attached.
The koolmat is good to 1000f, and has worked well for me. It is fairly
heavy, compared to fiberfrax.
Others on the list have reported success with fiberfrax.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N851JC flies |
> After two and a half years, my RV-8A flew today for the first time. I'll
> post numbers and pics on my website later. For now, I'll just say it was a
> GAS! I don't think I've ever had that kind of rush flying. I'll repeat
what
> everyone before me has said - it's worth all the work!
>
Damn!!! I just passed by Memphis twice today! I went to Pine Bluff, Ark.
I might have seen a new RV in flight had my timing been right. :-)
Congrats!
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
>
>
> Tom, you need to get AOPA to take a big lesson from the AARP (American
> Association of Retired People) in order to represent the pilots in the
> United States more effectively. Down here in S. Florida the blue hairs
> have a right to wreak havoc and mayhem throughout our community. A person
> can spend their entire lives taking public transportation around the big
> apple, then when they are retired and their eyes and reflexes are shot,
> they can then start to drive. Pass the test once and you are in until its
> your turn to to kill a carload of teenagers. Yeah, yeah Morey I know,
> you've been driving for sixty years but you still suck at it. Want to see a
> politician freeze with fear? Try to pass a law testing the elderly for
> ability to drive. The AARP will nuke anyone that dares incinuate an 80 year
> old person should be deprived of their right to drive based on age. The
> American pilots should take a lesson from these folks. If they have a right
> to drive then why don't we have a right to fly? The difference is, we are
> not organized, we ask politely for permission to fly. Unlike the AARP which
> kicks the door down and demands it. Lead the charge Tom, I'll cover ya.
>
> Eric
>
The only thing we lack to make this work is several tens of
millions more pilots, to equal the number of senior citizens
& gun owners.
Just making more noise probably won't work for us, because
not many could be convinced to feel sorry for us.
Charlie
RV-4 sold
RV2+2 bought; adding lightness
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paint cowl interior? |
whats fiberfrax?
scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Terra Avionics |
chuck
i meant to get his phone number off the web page. he just got these in and
are not on his webpage yet.
scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale & Cathy Lamport" <cn755(at)freenet.carleton.ca> |
| Subject: | Garmin 195/Navaid Data Cable Installation |
Has anyone coupled their Garman 195 to their Navaid Devices autopilot?
I have the power data cable but need information on specifically which wire
from the data cable is used for power, ground and data connection. In other
words, how do you hook it up?
Dale Lamport
RV6A
C-GLRV
Nepean, Ontario, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Flap skins - misaligned? |
This is weird! I must be missing something obvious. I tried to call Van's
for this one but just missed them (or they left earlier today). I'm
assembling my flaps and have been scratching my head over this for a few
days.
1)The pre-punched holes for the inboard rib on the top skin are tapered so
the trailing edge hole is 1/8" closer to the inboard edge of the skin than
the forward hole. This means that the inboard spar is supposed to be
installed on a slight angle (in relation to flap spar). This is also what
drawing 14 (top view) shows. All this is OK except drawing 9 shows it on a
90 degfree angle to the flap spar.
2)The Flap Spar is shaped (also according to drawings) with a taper from
bottom to top. Drawing 14 - Section C-C also shows that the rib should be
bent slighly over to follow the edge of the spar. This is also OK.
3) The bottom skin also have pre-punched holes for the inboard rib BUT they
are straight on a 90 degree angle from the spar - just like all the other
rib holes. This is NOT OK.
Everything dictates that the bottom holes should be further outboard than
the top holes but they are not (Section C-C shows clearly that bottom flange
of rib is further outboard than top flange) - instead only the top row is
tapered, not the bottom. Both rows should be tapered AND the bottom row
should be further outboard.
For me to get the inboard rib to fit over the PP'ed holes (with center
lines) it must have a wicked twist on it! Can anyone measure their RV-8 flap
skins and verify that the top, inboard trailing edge hole is 1/8" closer the
the inboard edge of the skin than the bottom inboard trailing hole?
I hope I didn't confuse this too much but I find it difficult to explain.
And I was told the flaps were the easiest part of the wing kit!
Please tell me I'm missing something obvious!
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MT prop governor bracket |
don't feel lonely..the BRAKET FOR THE 0320 DOSN'T FIT STOCK EITHER....IF
ANYONE IS INTERISTED i HAVE A SPARE HAM STANDARD GOV, THAT HAS SUPPOSEDLY
LO HRS ON IT...SALE OR TRADE?..THANKS.
Randy Garrett wrote:
>
> I picked up my MT prop yesterday. It will go on a RV6A with an O-360
> engine. I also got the MT governor, which is supposed to be a little
> smaller, lighter, and newer design. Unfortunately, the prop cable
> mounting bracket from Van's is only for the Woodward governor.
> Naturally, it does not fit MT's governor. Has someone else already
> solved the problem of building a mounting bracket for the MT governor?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Randy
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
Fiberfrax is a pressed fiber product that repels high temperatures. It is
kind of like a safe version of asbestos. It comes in rolls and is about
1/16 of an inch thick. Is is very fragile though and must be protected.
You can poke your finger right through it. I glued some of it to the bottom
of my cowl and then protected the fiberfrax with aluminum foil. You can
find it in the AC$ catalog.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (160 hours)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 6:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: FiberFrax
>
> What is this stuff I keep hearing about?
>
>
> ====
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A 197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Getting Close
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com> |
| Subject: | FiberFrax ALTERNATIVE |
All,
I would like to STRONGLY suggest this as an alternative to Fiberfrax. This
product line comes in rolls, sheets, sticky, not sticky, etc... AND, it has
the aluminum sheet already on it. (its the Design Engineering stuff, and
look at the listing of "Aluminized Materials"
http://www.martelbros.com/cgi-bin/store/ws400CS.cgi?no_search=y&category=dei
/dei.htm&cart_id=1010622084008300&dci
Note that the parent site (www.martelbros.com) has a LOT of good stuff. The
stuff I am referring to is only one product line they carry (the Design
Engineering line). They have the BEST online catalog I know of, and when I
ordered my K&N air filter this week online, it was at my door in 3 days.
They have lites, switches, Aeroquip fittings, etc, etc.
There you have it... My contribution for the week. And to think I cam very
near quitting the list this week!
jim
Tampa 6A, FWF.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy J.
Pflanzer
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 9:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: FiberFrax
Fiberfrax is a pressed fiber product that repels high temperatures. It is
kind of like a safe version of asbestos. It comes in rolls and is about
1/16 of an inch thick. Is is very fragile though and must be protected.
You can poke your finger right through it. I glued some of it to the bottom
of my cowl and then protected the fiberfrax with aluminum foil. You can
find it in the AC$ catalog.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (160 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wes" <whays(at)camalott.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear placement |
>This list is turning into a real waste of time.... (another >case of where
a FEW ruin it for the MANY!) hope this >junk stops or I will soon be >
"un-subscribing".
>Walt RV-6A N79WH
Walt, I have had some of the same feelings and did leave for a while. I
usually just hit the delete key on these things and go on.
However, may I relate a personal example of why NOT to unsubscribe. Becky
and I recently flew to Farmington NM to meet some friends for a little golf
and R&R. Before we left, I noticed on the list that Larry Hawkins from
Farmington had a post, so I e-mailed Larry to get some information about
hangars, accommodations, etc.at Farmington since we had never been there. He
e-mailed me right back with the information. He and Sabrina (his wife)
invited us out to supper, we visited about our favorite subject (RV's)(Larry
is building a -4).We met some wonderful people and made some new friends
that would not have been possible without the list. Soooooo? Hang in! It
gets a bit tedious at times, but there are a lot of super folks out there
like Larry and Sabrina. Larry just went on and on about Brian Denk and how
much help he has been on his project.
So for me? I'll just use the delete key. I know we will meet some more
wonderful folks out there who love their planes as much as we love ours.
Thanks Larry and Sabrina for a great time!
Wes & Becky Hays
Winters, TX
N844WB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
listers,
Is anyone incorporating a muffler in their exhaust system? It seems that
most USA builders are going for max performance over confort. European
builders of course have tough noise laws to deal with. The archive has
little or nothing on this topic.
Jim Bean
RV-8 Wiring fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
I'd be really interested in this as well... the biggest threat to general
aviation is the fact that no one wants us around cause we're so darn noisy.
The people who complain about airports and airplanes would probably complain
a lot less if they couldn't hear us. The reason snowmobiles, jetskis, and
off-road vehicles have lost so much access is because they never put
mufflers on, because they didn't want to lose horsepower. Will we be next?
I'd also be interested in the percentage of the noise that comes out of the
prop versus the engine. A lot of people claim there's no point in muffling
the engine since the prop is so noisy but I'm not buying it- motorcycles
don't have props and a lot of them will make you go deaf...
Matthew
8A fuse nutplate installer
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Bean
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 8:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: Mufflers
listers,
Is anyone incorporating a muffler in their exhaust system? It seems that
most USA builders are going for max performance over confort. European
builders of course have tough noise laws to deal with. The archive has
little or nothing on this topic.
Jim Bean
RV-8 Wiring fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Flap skins - misaligned? |
Hi Are-
It's OK- they're supposed to be that way. The two rivets rows should not be
parallel - the inboard flap rib gets a slight twist in it. You may have to
adjust the flanges of the rib to get everything to fit. If Ii's badly
twisted, you may be using it on the wrong flap (i.e a bunch of parts are
specific to the r and l flaps but look very similiar). Or you might have
the spar upside down. Don't drill anything till you're sure you've got it
all right, it should make sense when you've got all the parts put together
tight. It's kind of a neat assembly.
Matthew
8A fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Are Barstad
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 6:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Flap skins - misaligned?
.......
For me to get the inboard rib to fit over the PP'ed holes (with center
lines) it must have a wicked twist on it! Can anyone measure their RV-8 flap
skins and verify that the top, inboard trailing edge hole is 1/8" closer the
the inboard edge of the skin than the bottom inboard trailing hole?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Flap skins - misaligned? |
Thanks for the info Matthew.
I did manage to get it all lined up and even riveted tonight. I had every
piece right since I already clecoed together the left flap. It didn't seem
right and takes a bit of work (plus a small twist in the inboard rib) but
was fine once all in place.
The flaps are sure a strong design. I guess it only makes sense since we can
drop them at 120.
For a while I was questioning whether the parts was correctly marked (L & R)
but it turned out in the end that they were correct. The drawings are just
not as accurate and comprehensive as they were on the empennage kit. I
shouldn't complain I guess since the -8 is better by far than the older 3's
and 4's. We're spoiled with PP'ed parts :) Another lesson learned!
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Matthew Gelber
Sent: June 23, 2001 1:21 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-8 Flap skins - misaligned?
Hi Are-
It's OK- they're supposed to be that way. The two rivets rows should not be
parallel - the inboard flap rib gets a slight twist in it. You may have to
adjust the flanges of the rib to get everything to fit. If Ii's badly
twisted, you may be using it on the wrong flap (i.e a bunch of parts are
specific to the r and l flaps but look very similiar). Or you might have
the spar upside down. Don't drill anything till you're sure you've got it
all right, it should make sense when you've got all the parts put together
tight. It's kind of a neat assembly.
Matthew
8A fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Are Barstad
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 6:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Flap skins - misaligned?
.......
For me to get the inboard rib to fit over the PP'ed holes (with center
lines) it must have a wicked twist on it! Can anyone measure their RV-8 flap
skins and verify that the top, inboard trailing edge hole is 1/8" closer the
the inboard edge of the skin than the bottom inboard trailing hole?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | re: New RV-7 Builder Needs Advice |
About the workbench questions...maybe one or more of you RV webmasters (Doug?
Are?) could add a page dedicated to "workbench" photos and layout suggestions?
Semper Fi
John
RV-6 (getting flaps and ailerons inspected by the tech counselor soon...)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | No flames, just flying |
Just for grins, I posted a few pics of yesterday's first flights at
http://rv8asite.homestead.com/flying.html
Jerry Carter
RV-8A
N851JC
1.4 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Analysis |
Randy--
See if you can find the October, 2000 issue of "Light Plane
Maintenance", pg. 18,--a very comprehensive discussion of oil analysis
metal by metal.
If you can't find it, contact me and I'll send you a copy.
Boyd Braem
rpflanze(at)iquest.net wrote:
>
>
> Hey Guys,
>
> I need some help from those of you that have sent an oil sample out to be analyzed.
> I could find nothing else on the sheet to tell me what the numbers
> meant.
>
> Is this what I get for my $25 or is there supposed to be more to it? I would
> have thought that I would at least get one sentence that says "everything looks
> normal" or "have a mechanic check out your engine" or something.
>
> Help please.
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G
> RV-6 Indianapolis
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michel" <michelboucher594(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin 195/Navaid Data Cable Installation |
Dale a three years ago when I installed my Stec I hooked up the DG and the
KX125 nav to it and found it very simple. But when I inquired to the radio
shop about hooking up the GPS III I was told and could not be done,
something about digital signal to analogue??. Let me know if you hear
different, you could also try the Aeroelectric list!
Michel Boucher
C-GGRV RV3 1000+
RV8 Fiberglass...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dale & Cathy Lamport
Sent: June 22, 2001 9:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: Garmin 195/Navaid Data Cable Installation
Has anyone coupled their Garman 195 to their Navaid Devices autopilot?
I have the power data cable but need information on specifically which wire
from the data cable is used for power, ground and data connection. In other
words, how do you hook it up?
Dale Lamport
RV6A
C-GLRV
Nepean, Ontario, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Flap skins - misaligned? |
Are,
I just measured mine and the top set of holes does taper front to back and
the bottom set is straight. The rib is tipped slightly inboard as well. I
did my flaps quite a while ago but I don't remember having any problems with
the inboard section except maybe that I wanted to use solid rivets in the
bottom but finally gave up and used pull rivets.
Bob
RV8 #423
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Are Barstad
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 8:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Flap skins - misaligned?
This is weird! I must be missing something obvious. I tried to call Van's
for this one but just missed them (or they left earlier today). I'm
assembling my flaps and have been scratching my head over this for a few
days.
1)The pre-punched holes for the inboard rib on the top skin are tapered so
the trailing edge hole is 1/8" closer to the inboard edge of the skin than
the forward hole. This means that the inboard spar is supposed to be
installed on a slight angle (in relation to flap spar). This is also what
drawing 14 (top view) shows. All this is OK except drawing 9 shows it on a
90 degfree angle to the flap spar.
2)The Flap Spar is shaped (also according to drawings) with a taper from
bottom to top. Drawing 14 - Section C-C also shows that the rib should be
bent slighly over to follow the edge of the spar. This is also OK.
3) The bottom skin also have pre-punched holes for the inboard rib BUT they
are straight on a 90 degree angle from the spar - just like all the other
rib holes. This is NOT OK.
Everything dictates that the bottom holes should be further outboard than
the top holes but they are not (Section C-C shows clearly that bottom flange
of rib is further outboard than top flange) - instead only the top row is
tapered, not the bottom. Both rows should be tapered AND the bottom row
should be further outboard.
For me to get the inboard rib to fit over the PP'ed holes (with center
lines) it must have a wicked twist on it! Can anyone measure their RV-8 flap
skins and verify that the top, inboard trailing edge hole is 1/8" closer the
the inboard edge of the skin than the bottom inboard trailing hole?
I hope I didn't confuse this too much but I find it difficult to explain.
And I was told the flaps were the easiest part of the wing kit!
Please tell me I'm missing something obvious!
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New RV7a Bulider Needs Advice |
Jeff,
Here is a tip I borrowed from another builder.
Cut your table a little shorter than the length of your HS.
That way, when you are installing your elevators, the
counterbalances wont hit the table. This allows you to
move the elevators up and down easily.
Larry Mac Donald
Rochester N.Y.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 195/Navaid Data Cable Installation |
I think Jim at porcine.com could help you with your problem he has a device
called a smart coupler that converts the data stream to left and right
my 195 works just fine with this device
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: paint, polished aluminum look-alike |
-----Original Message-----
Date: Friday, June 22, 2001 6:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: paint, polished aluminum look-alike
>Does anybody know what paint was used on the plastic parts of
>the plane on the calendar from may 2001?
The paint on the RV-4 to which you refer (May calender photo) is Imron
Silver #45406, one of two truck colors in the palette at the time (1990).
Still available. Don't know if cross references are available to other
labels.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 195/Navaid Data Cable Installation |
> Has anyone coupled their Garman 195 to their Navaid Devices autopilot?
>
> I have the power data cable but need information on specifically which
wire
> from the data cable is used for power, ground and data connection. In
other
> words, how do you hook it up?
>
> Dale Lamport
> RV6A
> C-GLRV
> Nepean, Ontario, Canada
Dale,
I hooked up my Garmin Pilot III this way and it works GREAT. First off, your
Navaid needs the optional Smart Coupler, either internal or external, to
make it work. Sorry, but I can't recall the exact wires on the Garmin cable,
but it was very simple: +12v, Ground, and one wire that goes to the
multiconnector on the Navaid. Be advised that there are also some jumper
wires needed on the Navaid when used in this manner. Call Navaid, ask for
Horace, and tell him what you want to do. He will tell you about the
jumpers.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, N558RL, 46 hours
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Serge Boucher" <serge.boucher4(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: No flames, just flying |
CONGRADS WELL DONE
Serge Boucher
RV6
C-GRVB
160hrs
Just for grins, I posted a few pics of yesterday's first flights at
http://rv8asite.homestead.com/flying.html
Jerry Carter
RV-8A
N851JC
1.4 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FiberFrax ALTERNATIVE |
Radiation:
What we are trying to prevent is radiant heat from the exhaust pipes
reaching the cowl. Radiant heat is best reflected away by something such
as aluminum or silver. Aluminum foil has been recommended for the
reflector.
I wonder if a very thin sheet of aluminum such 0.016 wouldn't make a better
reflector as it could be mounted a slight distance away (0.50 inch?) from
the cowl surface. Then, the heat conducted thru the reflector, as some will
be, could be carried away by the air.
If there is space enough, the reflector could be mounted directly upon the
exhaust pipes. Maybe even just a quarter inch would do.
A simple experiment: Hold your hand near a light bulb. Now, apply aluminum
foil to your hand and try it. Better. Now, remove the foil from hand and
hold it half an inch away. Best?
So, what would make neat standoffs? How to mount the aluminum?
Or are there reasons why this would not work well??
Have you checked out Jerry Carter's new RV8?
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ANTENNA'S AGAIN |
> 1. mount the com wingtip antennia in the left wing tip. ( its the flexable
> fiberglass tape kind.)
Can you then comm to the right? I mounted mine under - bent whip
> 2. mount the marker beacon ant. ( boat ) under the engine inside the cowl.
Usually in a wing tip - mine is See archives.
> 3. mount the transponder ant. between the exhaust stacks right behind the
> scoop.
I'm anxious to hear how Garry Legares works mounted inside the cowl.
> 4. mount the nav/loc/gs/vor ant. at the tail, underneath pointing
rearward.
NO mount this one in the wing tip using the Bob Archer design.
> that would leave only 1 ant. out in the wind (nav).
only the com.
Still not enough antennae for some. GPS - Second comm - but surely no ADF.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | RV Watering Holes |
Just wanted to let people know about a recent addition to Doug Reeves' site
(www.vansairforce.net) -- an "RV Watering Holes" section, where people can
post info about recurring get-togethers -- you know, the regular Saturday
morning meeting at the local restaraunt, first Saturday of the month
fly-out, that sort of thing. Nice to have this stuff in one place so someone
who's traveling can go find some local "action". Not too much there yet, so
if you have a recurring activity please post it there so others can find out
where to find RVers when they travel!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~250 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin Connector |
Does anyone know if there's a commercially available connector that will fit
the power/data port on a Garmin GPS Pilot III? Their web site says they're
not available except by buying their $26 cigarette lighter adapter. I'm not
cheap, but paying $26 for what should be an $8 cable, when I only need the
($2) connector to wire it into my A/C power, kind of sticks in my craw.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~250 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
The left floorboard in my RV-3 was getting so hot from the muffler hanging
directly underneath it that the heal of my left sneaker melted!
I sandwiched 1/16" FiberFrax between the alu floorboard and .005" stainless
steel shim stock (from MSC), using pop rivets. Works great!
Alu foil will not protect your cowl if your exhaust system springs a leak. The
SS foil will, I hope. Also it's harder to punch holes in.
Finn
KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 6/22/01 7:16:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> pbesing(at)yahoo.com writes:
>
> >
> > What is this stuff I keep hearing about?
> >
>
> Fiberfrax is a glue-on flexible insulation that comes in thin sheets. It is
> said to be useful for protecting cowlings from extremely high temperature
> heat sources (up to 2300f according to the spec's), such as close by exhaust
> systems. Aircraft Spruce and others sell it, along with a special glue.
>
> I purchased an alternate product (koolmat) because the Aircraft Spruce rep I
> spoke with said some people had trouble getting fiberfrax to stay attached.
> The koolmat is good to 1000f, and has worked well for me. It is fairly
> heavy, compared to fiberfrax.
>
> Others on the list have reported success with fiberfrax.
>
> Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
> RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
NetZero Platinum
No Banner Ads and Unlimited Access
Sign Up Today - Only $9.95 per month!
http://www.netzero.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dan <dan(at)oregon.com> |
RV6 emp kit for sale. Partially complete. McMinnville, Oregon
Make offer.
503.789.9063
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin Connector |
I just said:
> Does anyone know if there's a commercially available connector that will
fit
> the power/data port on a Garmin GPS Pilot III?
Wups! I just went and did a quick web search and answered my own question.
In case others are interested, they can be found at:
http://www.blue-hills-innovations.com/blmstr.htm.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~250 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
> Any advice from anyone that has retrofitted flop tubes into completed
tanks
> would be apreciated. Especially concerning the angles you put in that keep
> the flop tube from binding up on the structure inside.
Not sure this can be done. I made one of my tanks with the flop tube and I
recall the instructions required extra ribbing to ensure the tip can never
hang up. I had to make two guides that deflected the tip away from where it
would get hung up. With a completed tank, I wouldn't think you could do this
right without removing the back baffle; major surgery.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Christina Lake BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Control Cable Nut Removal |
I have an A-770 button lock control cable that I bought from ACS for my
surge control valve, and I can't figure out how to remove the nut and lock
washer for installation. I'm sure it is obvious, but it's over my head.
Also, can you shorten this kind of cable - it has a 3/16 threaded end.
Anyone else have one of these?
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 N88MJ Seattle area
-----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aerobatics/Gyros |
----- Original Message -----
From: Norman <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
My gyros will all be on a separate toggle that I will leave off
for the local fun flights where the world is likely to rotate. No power,
no
spinning gyros, no damage during aerobatics.
I believe that even when they are not spinning they will flop around,
and could cause damage. I can cage my horizon, but not my HSI. Mine
are on a removable panel.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 N88MJ
Seattle area
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Help with fuel lines |
List:
I have ruined about all the 3/8" aluminum fuel lines I care to. I just can't
seem to get the bends right and when I finally get close I put a kink in it.
Can I use some type of aeroquip hose for the lines to run from the fuel
selector to each fitting for the wings?
Right now I have a standing order with ACS to send me 15' or 3/8" tubing
everyday until otherwise advised !!! At this rate maybe my great grandkids
can finish this plane for their kids !!
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, North Carolina (N901LL res)
Wiring & Plumbing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd W. Rudberg" <todd_rudberg(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | standard work tables from eaa1000 |
Recently somebody asked about standard work tables. I searched the
archive and did not see them, but happened to have the article nearby.
You can get the plans here:
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/worktabl/tablefig.htm
Judging from comments on the list a lot of us have used these
plans...that is because they are useful tables.
Todd W. Rudberg
RV-8 Wings (N232TB Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Garmin Connector |
My understanding is that that is a proprietary plug/connector. I paid the
$26. Are you sure you don't want the combo data/power cable so you can use
the NMEA output for a Navaid or something?
Randy Lervold
RV-8, N558RL, 46 hrs
www.rv-8.com
> Does anyone know if there's a commercially available connector that will
fit
> the power/data port on a Garmin GPS Pilot III? Their web site says they're
> not available except by buying their $26 cigarette lighter adapter. I'm
not
> cheap, but paying $26 for what should be an $8 cable, when I only need the
> ($2) connector to wire it into my A/C power, kind of sticks in my craw.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~250 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Help with fuel lines: bending 'em |
>I have ruined about all the 3/8" aluminum fuel lines I care to. I just can't
>seem to get the bends right and when I finally get close I put a kink in it.
What are you using to bend the tubing? You need a tubing bender. If you are
doing it by hand, you'll kink them.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Cable Nut Removal |
Mike, I'm not exactly sure what your specific issue is, but I did have to
grind a few places on some of those cables to get the nuts off.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A
> I have an A-770 button lock control cable that I bought from ACS for my
> surge control valve, and I can't figure out how to remove the nut and lock
> washer for installation. I'm sure it is obvious, but it's over my head.
> Also, can you shorten this kind of cable - it has a 3/16 threaded end.
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aerobatics/Gyros |
>My gyros will all be on a separate toggle that I will leave off for the
>local fun flights where the world is likely to rotate. No power,
>no spinning gyros, no damage during aerobatics.
>I believe that even when they are not spinning they will flop around, and
>could cause damage. I can cage my horizon, but not my HSI. Mine are on a
>removable panel.
Hard on those little bearings not to be spinning. They will wear out faster
if not being used. Like a lot of things...............
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan&Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
I have done this on several occasions, it is not easy but with really
flexible wrists it can be done. The biggest problem can come in the big
attach bracket at the leading edge. You have to drill a big hole in to to
pass the fuel line though. Most often the rivet spacing that is used to
attach this bracket will not allow the hole. Look at this carefully...it can
be a real problem. The anti hang up guides can be installed with pop
rivets...again, not easy but possible. Lastly, the fuel sending unit opening
has to be moved to the rear baffle. This means that you will have to install
the nutplates with countersunk pop rivets. I always put a stiffening plate
behind the baffle. just cut this out of the inspection plate that came on
the tank. It will already have the right pattern. Remember that this pattern
is not concentric so mark which way is up before cutting it out of the
plate. You will have to cut the ring in half and feed it through the big
hole...then cleco a couple of the holes. Some of this is hard to cover in
writing so if you are interested, email me directly and I will send you my
phone number.
You can do it with patience.
Evan
----- Original Message -----
From: Norman <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 11:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flop Tubes
>
> > Any advice from anyone that has retrofitted flop tubes into completed
> tanks
> > would be apreciated. Especially concerning the angles you put in that
keep
> > the flop tube from binding up on the structure inside.
>
> Not sure this can be done. I made one of my tanks with the flop tube and I
> recall the instructions required extra ribbing to ensure the tip can never
> hang up. I had to make two guides that deflected the tip away from where
it
> would get hung up. With a completed tank, I wouldn't think you could do
this
> right without removing the back baffle; major surgery.
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Christina Lake BC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Help with fuel lines |
In a message dated 6/23/01 2:10:34 PM, Lenleg(at)aol.com writes:
>I have ruined about all the 3/8" aluminum fuel lines I care to. I just
>can't
>seem to get the bends right and when I finally get close I put a kink in
>it.
>Can I use some type of aeroquip hose for the lines to run from the fuel
>
>selector to each fitting for the wings?
Are you using the tubing benders that slide on over the tubing to keep it
from kinking? I had pretty good luck using those. They are locally available
at car parts stores.
Kevin -9A
Apex Airport WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jayeandscott" <jayeandscott(at)home.com> |
Does anyone know if I paint the top of the new "S" cowl flat black, will it
reach a high enough temperature through heat-soaking after shutdown coupled
with the sun to ssag a little? Van's doesn't know.
----- Original Message -----
From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2001 10:50 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: FiberFrax
>
> The left floorboard in my RV-3 was getting so hot from the muffler hanging
> directly underneath it that the heal of my left sneaker melted!
>
> I sandwiched 1/16" FiberFrax between the alu floorboard and .005"
stainless
> steel shim stock (from MSC), using pop rivets. Works great!
>
> Alu foil will not protect your cowl if your exhaust system springs a leak.
The
> SS foil will, I hope. Also it's harder to punch holes in.
>
> Finn
>
> KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> > In a message dated 6/22/01 7:16:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> > pbesing(at)yahoo.com writes:
> >
> > >
> > > What is this stuff I keep hearing about?
> > >
> >
> > Fiberfrax is a glue-on flexible insulation that comes in thin sheets.
It is
> > said to be useful for protecting cowlings from extremely high
temperature
> > heat sources (up to 2300f according to the spec's), such as close by
exhaust
> > systems. Aircraft Spruce and others sell it, along with a special glue.
> >
> > I purchased an alternate product (koolmat) because the Aircraft Spruce
rep I
> > spoke with said some people had trouble getting fiberfrax to stay
attached.
> > The koolmat is good to 1000f, and has worked well for me. It is fairly
> > heavy, compared to fiberfrax.
> >
> > Others on the list have reported success with fiberfrax.
> >
> > Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
> > RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
>
>
> NetZero Platinum
> No Banner Ads and Unlimited Access
> Sign Up Today - Only $9.95 per month!
> http://www.netzero.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Garmin 195/Navaid Data Cable Installation |
> Has anyone coupled their Garman 195 to their Navaid Devices autopilot?
>
> I have the power data cable but need information on specifically which
> wire from the data cable is used for power, ground and data
> connection. In other words, how do you hook it up?
See the Navaid web site. The Navaid is available with the Smart
Coupler II built in. The Smart Coupler will do the digital (Garmin 195
NMEA) to analog (CDI) conversion for you. Mine works great.
Alternately, you can buy the Smart Coupler from Porcine directly,
www.procine.com.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Help with fuel lines: bending 'em |
I got so frustrated trying to make the lines follow
the contours of the airplane and look nice, that I
went with SS braided hose for the whole
airplane...kind of pricy, but very easy to install,
remove. In the building process I have had to remove
them 2 or three times...looks cool, too..just a
thought..
====
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Getting Close
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aerobatics/Gyros |
>I believe that even when they are not spinning they will flop around,
>and could cause damage. I can cage my horizon, but not my HSI. Mine
>are on a removable panel.
>
>Mike Robbins
>RV8Q 80591 N88MJ
>Seattle area
Mike,
My understanding is that the purpose of caging a gyro Horizon is to quickly
reset it if it becomes upset while being used. Otherwise it can take
several minutes to re-stabilize. This was done during the days of
dogfighting. The caging mechanism does not truly protect the gyro from the
adverse forces introduced during hard aerobatics. Will the real engineers
please stand up and give us some guidance. Thanks
Louis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "T Bronson" <bipetype(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi Folks,
Product question: Have any of you in RV-land ever used a hard-shell helmet
with ANR circuitry installed? They are available from Flightsuits, Inc. in
CA, among others. I wondered if anyone could provide me with some feedback
(no pun intended) on how well they work, pro's and con's, etc.
Thanks,
Tim - Pittsburgh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin Connector |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2001 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin Connector
>
> I just said:
> > Does anyone know if there's a commercially available connector that will
> fit
> > the power/data port on a Garmin GPS Pilot III?
>
> Wups! I just went and did a quick web search and answered my own question.
> In case others are interested, they can be found at:
> http://www.blue-hills-innovations.com/blmstr.htm.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~250 hrs)
> Portland, OR
Garmin also offers a power connector for your 12V lighter socket. It is
much smaller than the Yoke mount connector which I had been using to provide
the power while flying and had to lay the unit in the passengers seat. I
stuck some super strong Velcro (from Radio Shack) to one of the plastic hole
covers for an instrument hole and then also to the back of this connector
(measure approx 1 1/2" x 3" wide). The connector is now velcroed to the
instrument panel and my Garmin 195 now resides right in front of me rather
than sitting on the passengers seat. Cost approx $25.00 Gives a lot of
flexibility where to mount the 195. Could mount it to panel with screws
also.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494B@ 100 hrs
http://shop.garmin.com/
Look under "accessories" for the GPS 105 and the part number.
Cigarette lighter adapter
Save batteries and keep your handheld GPS powered when you're on the fly.
This adapter plugs into any standard cigarette lighter receptacle.
Part No. 010-10135-01 $25.00
________________________________________________________________________________
Listers,
I have been lurking the list for almost three years now, gathering
information and assessing my ability to build my own plane. It has been an
informative and interesting place to visit. The knowledge, obvious support
for neophytes, and experience represented by this list were big factors in
making my decision to build. I've even established my own personal "archive"
of tips and techniques discussed here. I look forward to using the list to
fill in the WIDE gaps in my ability and knowledge. However ....
I've got to say it is anoying to wade through 80 messages on the list to find
the ones that actually have something to do with building or flying. The
list has been around long before I arrived, so I guess the members can do
what they want, but that's not what I thought the list was for.
Wouldn't some of the "discussions" which go on be more appropriate in a "Chat
Room" on the internet? Or should those of us who are building agree to go
some place else where things stay on topic. Am I alone in this line of
thinking?
John McDonnell RV7A - Starting Emp kit, hoping for the QB kit in October
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Helmet w/ANR |
Tim,
As a retired Military Pilot, the helmet we used worked fine without ANR. I
bet they work GREAT with ANR.
The cost is too high for me. A properly fitted helmet feels much better
than a headset for long flights but can be very hot in the summer.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "T Bronson" <bipetype(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2001 5:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: Helmet w/ANR
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> Product question: Have any of you in RV-land ever used a hard-shell helmet
> with ANR circuitry installed? They are available from Flightsuits, Inc.
in
> CA, among others. I wondered if anyone could provide me with some
feedback
> (no pun intended) on how well they work, pro's and con's, etc.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim - Pittsburgh
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Yeller Pages |
Hey Gang!
I'm getting real close to posting my most recent revision to the Yeller Pages
and wanted to again beat the bushes for the more obscure companies that make
those special things for our planes that we can't possibly live without.
Please send to me directly (not via the RV-List!!). I need the company name,
who to contact there (if possible), toll free number, normal phone number,
e-mail address/website URL and what commodity they provide.
I always catch the manufacturers and distributor data that gets posted to the
list (although this week I swear I too was close to bagging the RV-List, but
as in that old David Crosby tune where he decides against cutting his hair, I
couldn't bear to do it), those that I find in various publications and
sometimes the suppliers e-mail me begging to be listed (we collectively
represent a huge buying base after all).
Also note that I will be delisting Audio Flight Avionics (AFA) and now
Wultrad (Falcon Gauge) due to lack of adequate customer/product support. I
don't generally like to do this but there have been too many reports of
dissatisfaction. If anyone has a persuasive alternate view, I'll happily
reconsider.
Thanks for helping me to help you,
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: My Two Cents |
Doesn't your delete key work? I get over 500 messages a day. Not all are
pearls so I delete. No big deal.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: <JTAnon(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2001 7:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: My Two Cents
Listers,
I have been lurking the list for almost three years now, gathering
information and assessing my ability to build my own plane. It has been an
informative and interesting place to visit. The knowledge, obvious support
for neophytes, and experience represented by this list were big factors in
making my decision to build. I've even established my own personal
"archive"
of tips and techniques discussed here. I look forward to using the list to
fill in the WIDE gaps in my ability and knowledge. However ....
I've got to say it is anoying to wade through 80 messages on the list to
find
the ones that actually have something to do with building or flying. The
list has been around long before I arrived, so I guess the members can do
what they want, but that's not what I thought the list was for.
Wouldn't some of the "discussions" which go on be more appropriate in a
"Chat
Room" on the internet? Or should those of us who are building agree to go
some place else where things stay on topic. Am I alone in this line of
thinking?
John McDonnell RV7A - Starting Emp kit, hoping for the QB kit in October
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ANTENNA'S AGAIN |
hal
i didn't mention the garmin 295 ant, because it will go on top of the dash.
does you wing tip nav have glideslope?
i didn't want to mount the comm in the right since my navais servo will be
there.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: N851JC flies |
In a message dated 6/22/01 3:45:38 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com writes:
>
> After two and a half years, my RV-8A flew today for the first time. I'll
> post numbers and pics on my website later. For now, I'll just say it was a
> GAS! I don't think I've ever had that kind of rush flying. I'll repeat what
> everyone before me has said - it's worth all the work!
>
>
> Jerry Carter
> Memphis, TN
>
>
Congrads on your accomplishment.
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:GPS on E-Bay / trouble |
Dear Listers,
did any of you guys recently bid on a Garmin 295 on e-bay. i won a new one
from a guy who had 5 on the auction all at once. At the time i won, he had a
perfect record, but i haven't heard from him since i sent out my money order.
today i got about 5 e-mails from various people who won his stuff off e-bay,
all claiming that they never received any of the merchandise, and are tring
to get the New Jersey Police involved.
i've since checked this guys feedback profile and he already has 2 negatives,
and i'm sure the list will be growing quickly.
so i went to e-bay and typed in garmin 295 in the search area, there are 3
units there now, one going for 1025.00. if you do a history search you will
see that he is there bidding on that gps. Why would he sell 5 units a week
ago and today be bidding on the same unit?
the people who contacted me were scammed for cam corders, playsations, and
avionics.
Does anyone on this list live in New Jersey?
scott
pissed off and want some a$$.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 6/22/01 4:15:55 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
pbesing(at)yahoo.com writes:
>
>
> What is this stuff I keep hearing about?
>
>
>
It is a ceramic fiber mat that is approximately 1/4" thick. It can withstand
a direct flame up to around 1,000 degree's. It can and will heat soak.
Hope this helps
Tim Barnes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca> |
| Subject: | RE: Cowl Side Hinges |
The plans say to raise the side cowling hinges at the rear of the cowling to
make the cowling easier to install.
Looks to me like it would be better to keep the bottom hinge eyes raised for
the full length, in other words leave the hinge raised and level from back
to front with all the bottom hinge eyes above the join line.
Anyone done that or see any pitfalls??
Also what gap should I leave between top & bottom cowl halves for paint?
Thanks,
George McNutt
Langley B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Cowl Side Hinges |
In a message dated 6/23/01 9:47:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca writes:
> The plans say to raise the side cowling hinges at the rear of the cowling to
> make the cowling easier to install.
>
> Looks to me like it would be better to keep the bottom hinge eyes raised for
> the full length, in other words leave the hinge raised and level from back
> to front with all the bottom hinge eyes above the join line.
>
> Anyone done that or see any pitfalls??
You need to make sure the hinge is centered along the split at the front, or
you're gonna find it hard to get the pins in or out...
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:GPS on E-Bay / trouble |
I thought E-Bay had some protection setup for this situation. Have you
e-mailed them?
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2001 8:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List:GPS on E-Bay / trouble
Dear Listers,
did any of you guys recently bid on a Garmin 295 on e-bay. i won a new one
from a guy who had 5 on the auction all at once. At the time i won, he had a
perfect record, but i haven't heard from him since i sent out my money
order.
today i got about 5 e-mails from various people who won his stuff off e-bay,
all claiming that they never received any of the merchandise, and are tring
to get the New Jersey Police involved.
i've since checked this guys feedback profile and he already has 2
negatives,
and i'm sure the list will be growing quickly.
so i went to e-bay and typed in garmin 295 in the search area, there are 3
units there now, one going for 1025.00. if you do a history search you will
see that he is there bidding on that gps. Why would he sell 5 units a week
ago and today be bidding on the same unit?
the people who contacted me were scammed for cam corders, playsations, and
avionics.
Does anyone on this list live in New Jersey?
scott
pissed off and want some a$$.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:GPS on E-Bay / trouble |
In a message dated 6/23/2001 8:54:39 PM Central Daylight Time,
cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes:
> I thought E-Bay had some protection setup for this situation. Have you
> e-mailed them?
>
yea but it only pays up to like 200 dollars
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Kunkel <rvator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:GPS on E-Bay / trouble |
Hi Scott,
Depending on where you got the Money Order you can, in fact, stop payment on them
- yes, you can! It could also become postal fraud & a couple of other violations
of interstate commerce. Just a couple of other options you might pursue.
Best of luck w/ this matter!
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Dear Listers,
> did any of you guys recently bid on a Garmin 295 on e-bay. i won a new one
> from a guy who had 5 on the auction all at once. At the time i won, he had a
> perfect record, but i haven't heard from him since i sent out my money order.
> today i got about 5 e-mails from various people who won his stuff off e-bay,
> all claiming that they never received any of the merchandise, and are tring
> to get the New Jersey Police involved.
> i've since checked this guys feedback profile and he already has 2 negatives,
> and i'm sure the list will be growing quickly.
> so i went to e-bay and typed in garmin 295 in the search area, there are 3
> units there now, one going for 1025.00. if you do a history search you will
> see that he is there bidding on that gps. Why would he sell 5 units a week
> ago and today be bidding on the same unit?
> the people who contacted me were scammed for cam corders, playsations, and
> avionics.
> Does anyone on this list live in New Jersey?
>
> scott
> pissed off and want some a$$.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:GPS on E-Bay / trouble |
cy
there is really no help from e-bay, just file a complaint and they will stop
the guy from selling or buying using the name he registered with. he already
is using another name. they insure any product up to 200 dollars. that want
help me for the 1k i lost.
scott
although i have bought sucessfully many times on e-bay, the 1 time they will
get you will hurt, and no help after that.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:GPS on E-Bay / trouble |
Who is this individual? His e-bay sellers name please.
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2001 8:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List:GPS on E-Bay / trouble
Dear Listers,
did any of you guys recently bid on a Garmin 295 on e-bay. i won a new one
from a guy who had 5 on the auction all at once. At the time i won, he had a
perfect record, but i haven't heard from him since i sent out my money
order.
today i got about 5 e-mails from various people who won his stuff off e-bay,
all claiming that they never received any of the merchandise, and are tring
to get the New Jersey Police involved.
i've since checked this guys feedback profile and he already has 2
negatives,
and i'm sure the list will be growing quickly.
so i went to e-bay and typed in garmin 295 in the search area, there are 3
units there now, one going for 1025.00. if you do a history search you will
see that he is there bidding on that gps. Why would he sell 5 units a week
ago and today be bidding on the same unit?
the people who contacted me were scammed for cam corders, playsations, and
avionics.
Does anyone on this list live in New Jersey?
scott
pissed off and want some a$$.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: My Two Cents |
In a message dated 6/23/01 5:53:59 PM Pacific Daylight Time, JTAnon(at)aol.com
writes:
>
>
If you have been lurking that long then you know that not every post will be
taylor made for you....so if you have a question post it you will get many
good answers and when someone pops off some crap delete it. That's about how
it works. When it gets boring post something about a nosewheel or tailwheel
or something.
Tim Barnes
N39TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:GPS on E-Bay / trouble |
stevensrb(at)hotmail.com (robert stevens) was the one he was using when he had 5
garmin 295 on e-bay,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:GPS on E-Bay / trouble |
He now as a -3 rating and he has changed his name in the last 30 days.
stevensrb (-3) with dark glasses to show the name change
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2001 8:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List:GPS on E-Bay / trouble
Dear Listers,
did any of you guys recently bid on a Garmin 295 on e-bay. i won a new one
from a guy who had 5 on the auction all at once. At the time i won, he had a
perfect record, but i haven't heard from him since i sent out my money
order.
today i got about 5 e-mails from various people who won his stuff off e-bay,
all claiming that they never received any of the merchandise, and are tring
to get the New Jersey Police involved.
i've since checked this guys feedback profile and he already has 2
negatives,
and i'm sure the list will be growing quickly.
so i went to e-bay and typed in garmin 295 in the search area, there are 3
units there now, one going for 1025.00. if you do a history search you will
see that he is there bidding on that gps. Why would he sell 5 units a week
ago and today be bidding on the same unit?
the people who contacted me were scammed for cam corders, playsations, and
avionics.
Does anyone on this list live in New Jersey?
scott
pissed off and want some a$$.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | rv9 degrees of operation ailerons |
Doing the little things that take forever, before putting on the bottom
wing skins.
On of them is installing the little 914 aileron stop. The drawing shows
a rotation of 32 degrees, limited by the 914 stop.
My concern is: going the other direction I only have 26 degrees of
travel before the nose of the aileron hits the aileron fairing.
Do they travel further in one direction than the other, because of a
different ratio in the bellcrank?
Barry Pote RV9a Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | SW 980 Primer Going Off in Gun |
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
I'm using Sherwin-Williams E2G 980 Etching Filler with SW R7K 981 Standard
Reducer. I mixed up the primer and reducer per the instructions (50/50),
and tried a few test pieces. It came out full of flecks, and very quickly
the gun clogged. Inside the paint cup there was a sediment on the bottom,
same flecks of stuff.
Here's my theory: before starting, I cleaned the gun with SW R7K 156 Sovent
Cleaner, the same cleaner I'm using on my parts; I suspect the solvent
hadn't completely dried before I started painting, and that caused the paint
to "curdle." Does that sound right?
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Help with fuel lines: bending 'em |
Mike, at the local ac/heating/plumbing supply center they sell springs that
slide over the tubing that prevents the kinking. Can get almost a pretzel
shape if you felt so inclined....they're only a few bucks. Also don't forget
to hold off on flaring one side so the spring can be removed..
Steven DiNieri
Niagara Falls, New York
RV-6A, P28A-160
>I have ruined about all the 3/8" aluminum fuel lines I care to. I just
can't
>seem to get the bends right and when I finally get close I put a kink in
it.
What are you using to bend the tubing? You need a tubing bender. If you are
doing it by hand, you'll kink them.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Help with fuel lines: bending 'em |
another tip is to fill the tube with sand, it will never kink. i got that tip
out of custom planes.just be sure to clean the inside of the tube when done!
scott
tampa
on a man hunt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: SW 980 Primer Going Off in Gun |
>I suspect the solvent hadn't completely dried before I started
painting, and that >caused the paint to "curdle." Does that sound
right?
>Tedd McHenry
>Surrey, BC
Tedd;
Don't know about these particular components specifically, but yes if
there is a trace of an incompatible material in the gun it could cause
the paint to "curdle". Have had this happen several times at work when
someone cleaned out the gun with MEK and didn't dry it properly before
loading the paint and exactly what you describe happened.
Bob McC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Hackleman" <bkh(at)rochester.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:GPS on E-Bay / trouble |
I just read an article about E-bay going after fraudulent users. If you
report it, they will try to catch and prosecute the person. Based on the
amount of resources in place and the coordination with local and federal
agencies, I'd say they are very serious about catching the crooks. Your
probably just one of many this person has scammed, and every reported
instance helps them build a case.
Thanks for the warning, and I hope you cancel your money order in time.
Brian
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2001 10:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List:GPS on E-Bay / trouble
cy
there is really no help from e-bay, just file a complaint and they will stop
the guy from selling or buying using the name he registered with. he already
is using another name. they insure any product up to 200 dollars. that want
help me for the 1k i lost.
scott
although i have bought sucessfully many times on e-bay, the 1 time they will
get you will hurt, and no help after that.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rv9 degrees of operation ailerons |
In a message dated 6/23/01 8:00:37 PM, barrypote(at)home.com writes:
>On of them is installing the little 914 aileron stop. The drawing shows
>a rotation of 32 degrees, limited by the 914 stop.
>
>My concern is: going the other direction I only have 26 degrees of
>travel before the nose of the aileron hits the aileron fairing.
>
>Do they travel further in one direction than the other, because of a
>different ratio in the bellcrank?
>
>Barry Pote RV9a Wings
>
Barry, the down travel is quite abit less than the up travel. I dont have the
info in front of me but I think it is about 19 degrees. If you get the up
travel right for both wings, the down travel will be correct at final
assembly.
Kevin
-9A Apex Airport WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv9 degrees of operation ailerons |
> On of them is installing the little 914 aileron stop. The drawing shows
> a rotation of 32 degrees, limited by the 914 stop.
>
> My concern is: going the other direction I only have 26 degrees of
> travel before the nose of the aileron hits the aileron fairing.
>
> Do they travel further in one direction than the other, because of a
> different ratio in the bellcrank?
>
That's entirely possible; but, you say it hits a fairing. Since I'm not
building a RV-9A, I'm not sure what you mean here. Is it supposed to do
that? Anyway, I think one who is going to fly a RV-9A will find that a
small of travel will not be missed. I use very little of the travel in the
ailerons in my -6A. I don't fly aerobatics and don't need the large amounts
of travel. Since you're flying a RV-9A that is not stressed for aerobatics,
it becomes a moot point. If the fairing is a problem, you might try to
resolve that. If not, continue building.
If I remember correctly, differential should give more up that down. Seems
I remember that down is drag. It's been a while; so, don't take my words as
gospel. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | My two cents (chat room) |
John: Doug Reeves has an "instant messaging" page on his web site (http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/vaf.htm) that might work almost as well...in fact, maybe a
bit better...when another list member is offline, the message you send him will
be delivered the next time the member goes on line. Click on "instant messaging"
in the column on the left side of Doug's page.
As for having to sort out the wheat from the chaff...unless the chat room is VERY
focussed (perhaps moderated?), the same thing will happen...you end up having
to sort thru a lot of drivel. And I don't think anyone would have the time to
run a moderated chat room, we're all too busy out in the garage/hangar working
on
our projects :-)
Try the instant messaging feature...Doug has a contact list of RV builders already
made up. It might just be what you're looking for.
Semper Fi
John
(RV-6...waiting for tech counselor inspection on ailerons and flaps...started the
wing spars/ribs yesterday evening...woooooooohooooooooooooo)
>
> From: JTAnon(at)aol.com
> Subject: RV-List: My Two Cents
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I have been lurking the list for almost three years now, gathering
> information and assessing my ability to build my own plane. It has been an
> informative and interesting place to visit. The knowledge, obvious support
> for neophytes, and experience represented by this list were big factors in
> making my decision to build. I've even established my own personal "archive"
> of tips and techniques discussed here. I look forward to using the list to
> fill in the WIDE gaps in my ability and knowledge. However ....
>
> I've got to say it is anoying to wade through 80 messages on the list to find
> the ones that actually have something to do with building or flying. The
> list has been around long before I arrived, so I guess the members can do
> what they want, but that's not what I thought the list was for.
>
> Wouldn't some of the "discussions" which go on be more appropriate in a "Chat
> Room" on the internet? Or should those of us who are building agree to go
> some place else where things stay on topic. Am I alone in this line of
> thinking?
>
> John McDonnell RV7A - Starting Emp kit, hoping for the QB kit in October
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:GPS on E-Bay / trouble |
The dark glasses means he has used that name for 30 days or less, I
believe. How do you know it is the same person?
Barry Pote
PS Seems like with the co-op pf Ebay and the postal service, a certified
letter gets sent to him with a 'winner's' money and they nab him when he
signs.
Cy Galley wrote:
>
>
> He now as a -3 rating and he has changed his name in the last 30 days.
> stevensrb (-3) with dark glasses to show the name change
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2001 8:31 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List:GPS on E-Bay / trouble
>
>
> Dear Listers,
> did any of you guys recently bid on a Garmin 295 on e-bay. i won a new one
> from a guy who had 5 on the auction all at once. At the time i won, he had a
> perfect record, but i haven't heard from him since i sent out my money
> order.
> today i got about 5 e-mails from various people who won his stuff off e-bay,
> all claiming that they never received any of the merchandise, and are tring
> to get the New Jersey Police involved.
> i've since checked this guys feedback profile and he already has 2
> negatives,
> and i'm sure the list will be growing quickly.
> so i went to e-bay and typed in garmin 295 in the search area, there are 3
> units there now, one going for 1025.00. if you do a history search you will
> see that he is there bidding on that gps. Why would he sell 5 units a week
> ago and today be bidding on the same unit?
> the people who contacted me were scammed for cam corders, playsations, and
> avionics.
> Does anyone on this list live in New Jersey?
>
> scott
> pissed off and want some a$$.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:GPS on E-Bay / trouble |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Laurence" <plaurencepc(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hey Charlie! RV-8 Canopy, how to attach to frame ?? |
----- Original Message -----
From: Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 8:09 AM
Subject: RV-List: Hey Charlie! RV-8 Canopy, how to attach to frame ??
Larry, I have not used them either but fellow lister Charlie Kuss has a wiz
bang rivnut tool with a notching device that is supossed to prevent the nut
from spinning. I'm not clear how that works exactly because I have not yet
screwed up a dozen of them but I will soon. Maybe ole Charlie can give us a
run down on that.
Eric
Eric,
I think it's rather rude to call Charlie old. Come to think of it, by the time
he fininishes his rv8 he will be old.
peter
/explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv9 degrees of operation ailerons |
Thanks, that is just what I wanted to hear.
Barry
Im7shannon(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 6/23/01 8:00:37 PM, barrypote(at)home.com writes:
>
> >On of them is installing the little 914 aileron stop. The drawing shows
> >a rotation of 32 degrees, limited by the 914 stop.
> >
> >My concern is: going the other direction I only have 26 degrees of
> >travel before the nose of the aileron hits the aileron fairing.
> >
> >Do they travel further in one direction than the other, because of a
> >different ratio in the bellcrank?
> >
> >Barry Pote RV9a Wings
> >
> Barry, the down travel is quite abit less than the up travel. I dont have the
> info in front of me but I think it is about 19 degrees. If you get the up
> travel right for both wings, the down travel will be correct at final
> assembly.
> Kevin
> -9A Apex Airport WA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List:GPS on E-Bay / trouble |
Sorry you were robbed. I've been lucky so far with transactions on EBay,
but I know it's just a matter of time bfore my luck runs out.
In the future, maybe consider EBay's escrow service. It's not free, but for
high-dollar transactions it may be worth it. See
http://pages.ebay.com/help/community/escrow.html for more details. If the
seller is not willing to do it, there's a red flag right there.
Good luck,
Larry Bowen
RV-8 canoe
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2001 8:31 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List:GPS on E-Bay / trouble
>
>
> Dear Listers,
> did any of you guys recently bid on a Garmin 295 on e-bay. i won a new one
> from a guy who had 5 on the auction all at once. At the time i
> won, he had a
> perfect record, but i haven't heard from him since i sent out my money
> order.
> today i got about 5 e-mails from various people who won his stuff
> off e-bay,
> all claiming that they never received any of the merchandise, and
> are tring
> to get the New Jersey Police involved.
> i've since checked this guys feedback profile and he already has 2
> negatives,
> and i'm sure the list will be growing quickly.
> so i went to e-bay and typed in garmin 295 in the search area, there are 3
> units there now, one going for 1025.00. if you do a history
> search you will
> see that he is there bidding on that gps. Why would he sell 5 units a week
> ago and today be bidding on the same unit?
> the people who contacted me were scammed for cam corders, playsations, and
> avionics.
> Does anyone on this list live in New Jersey?
>
> scott
> pissed off and want some a$$.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:GPS on E-Bay / trouble |
Scott,
I was involved in a similar situation on EBay about 18 months ago. It related
to
a Dutch auction of computer sound cards. The seller had 20 for sale. I won the
bid on 2 of them. I sent my money but never got my merchandise. I contacted all
of the other winning bidders to find out if anyone had received their sound
cards. About half had gotten delivery and half had been "stiffed", as I had.
EBay's rules state that a buyer or seller must allow the other party 21 days
before the auction terms are considered violated.
Numerous emails and phone calls later, I learned the whereabouts of the seller.
All this took about 6 weeks. I got no satisfaction till I contacted the U.S.
Postal Service. I had paid via U.S. Postal Money Order. I filed a complaint with
the post office. When you use a U.S. Postal Money Order for payment, any fraud
becomes a Federal offense. The seller had moved from the Chicago area to
California. The Postal Service found him and made him aware of the consequences
of non delivery of goods sold under Federal law. I received my computer parts
within 1 week of their contacting this scum bag.
Moral of this story
Always pay via credit card (Pay Pal, etc.) or via U.S. Postal Money Order.
CYA A phone call or visit from the Federal Marshals or Postal Inspector
has a very real effect on less than honorable folks. Credit card companies also
give you 60 days to complain about unfair sales or purchases made.
Keep us apprised of this situation Scott.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A fuselage
Boca Raton, Fl.
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Dear Listers,
> did any of you guys recently bid on a Garmin 295 on e-bay. i won a new one
> from a guy who had 5 on the auction all at once. At the time i won, he had a
> perfect record, but i haven't heard from him since i sent out my money order.
> today i got about 5 e-mails from various people who won his stuff off e-bay,
> all claiming that they never received any of the merchandise, and are tring
> to get the New Jersey Police involved.
> i've since checked this guys feedback profile and he already has 2 negatives,
> and i'm sure the list will be growing quickly.
> so i went to e-bay and typed in garmin 295 in the search area, there are 3
> units there now, one going for 1025.00. if you do a history search you will
> see that he is there bidding on that gps. Why would he sell 5 units a week
> ago and today be bidding on the same unit?
> the people who contacted me were scammed for cam corders, playsations, and
> avionics.
> Does anyone on this list live in New Jersey?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Avoiding trouble on eBay |
I have a few suggestions if you're using eBay. In an effort to pay for my
RV I've been involved in about 50,000 transactions (my userid is rgelber -
sorry no airplane stuff but if you want baubles for the missus I got 'em) so
these suggestions should carry some weight if you're considering buying
big-ticket items. Also, the risk on eBay is very very low and if you keep a
couple things in mind you can pretty much eliminate it.
1) Investigate the seller thoroughly. Make sure they got their feedback as
a seller, not as a buyer. Look for a long history of selling, otherwise
they may have created an artificial feedback profile with dummy auctions.
Look at what they used to sell and compare it to what you're considering
buying. For instance, if they used to sell Find-Out-Anything-About-Anyone
CDs and now they're selling diamond rings, think twice.
2) The only safe way to pay is with a credit card. That means directly,
not using an intermediate service like PayPal, Billpoint, BidPay, etc. The
fraud protection is great if you use a card directly but meager if you use a
third-party service. (e.g.- PayPal offers no fraud protection for
electronics). People don't seem to understand- if you use a credit card
directly you can't get screwed. Your credit card company will cover it. I
can't emphasize this enough- using PayPal etc is like sending cash in an
envelope, the fraud protection is almost nonexistent. Really, trust me, I
know what I'm talking about. Sometimes people will say they take Visa/MC
but they really mean they take PayPal- ask before you bid on a big-ticket
item.
3) If you can't pay with a credit card directly, use a Postal Money Order.
They'll actually investigate fraud. But you'll probably not get their money
back if they're a real dirtbag- they'll have spent it already.
All that said, the best deals happen when you violate these rules... small
sellers don't take credit cards directly, and are often new so have no
history- but know that you're taking a risk and price accordingly. That
said, the risk is very very small. I've bought numerous items in the
several hundred dollar range, often with personal checks (no fraud
protection at all) and not had problems. Its all about taking the risk into
account when you bid.
Matthew
8A fuse (Holy shit! You want me to put WHAT on the lower floor parts when I
rivet them?)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:GPS on E-Bay / trouble |
You won't see me on ebay. A few bucks saved here and there are hard to make
up when you take a two or five hundered dollar hit. Not me! I'll stick with
my friends trying to make a reputable living serving us --- even if it costs
me a little more!
Chuck Weyant
> cy
> there is really no help from e-bay, just file a complaint and they will
stop
> the guy from selling or buying using the name he registered with. he
already
> is using another name. they insure any product up to 200 dollars. that
want
> help me for the 1k i lost.
> scott
>
> although i have bought sucessfully many times on e-bay, the 1 time they
will
> get you will hurt, and no help after that.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ANTENNA'S AGAIN |
Scott and all,
There is a VOR-ILS nav antenna design by Bob Archer that is made of a few
short strips of thin aluminum. Make it from drawings in Bob Nuckolls book
or buy it from Archer. It picks up VOR and ILS signals. Glide slope is
picked off thru use of a spliter. It mounts flat in a wingtip.
I haven't installed nav radio(s) yet.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aerobatics/Gyros |
I'm planning on electrical gyros with removable sub panel. It's the safest
alternative. The horizon and DG will be stacked so that's fairly easy. I'm
considering going with an S-Tec autopilot, and removing the gyro for that
may be more involved.
Steve Johnson
RV-8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Louis Willig" <larywil(at)home.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2001 7:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: aerobatics/Gyros
>
>
> >I believe that even when they are not spinning they will flop around,
> >and could cause damage. I can cage my horizon, but not my HSI. Mine
> >are on a removable panel.
> >
> >Mike Robbins
> >RV8Q 80591 N88MJ
> >Seattle area
>
>
> Mike,
>
> My understanding is that the purpose of caging a gyro Horizon is to
quickly
> reset it if it becomes upset while being used. Otherwise it can take
> several minutes to re-stabilize. This was done during the days of
> dogfighting. The caging mechanism does not truly protect the gyro from the
> adverse forces introduced during hard aerobatics. Will the real engineers
> please stand up and give us some guidance. Thanks
>
> Louis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Elsa Soliz" <ssracer1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Garmin 195 , ICOM A-22 With VOR and helmet for sale. |
I have a Garmin 195 and a ICOM A-22 and also a Govt. Sales Inc. Flight
Helmet with dark visor and adapter cord for GA use, also have adapter cord
to use it with the Icom A-22 . All three items were bought new in 1998 and
have never been used, they are still in the boxes. I sold my -6a project and
don't need these items. $ 1,000.00 for all
Ken Crabtree, Melbourne, FL
ssracer1(at)bellsouth.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Is carb enrich circuit adjustable |
I couldn't find this answered in the archives:
O-320-E2G (150 HP) with a Marvel Schebler 10-5009 carb
Is the enrichening circuit adjustable on this carb?
I am finding that at low altitudes (1000'-3000') as I come out of full
throttle it seems that the enrichening circuit comes off too soon. The EGT
being fine (~1460) at full throttle will screem up to the mid 1500's when I
drop just out of the enrichening range. I'm still at full rich on my
mixture setting. I have to drop back to about 24-25 inches to get the EGT
back under 1500. This leaves a fairly large speed range that I am staying
out of at these altitudes (10-15 kts) and it is really annoying when flying
in a group. This is only this high on #3, the other cylinders are staying
well below 1500. I was very precise when I installed the EGT probes at
1-1/2" below the flanges.
Any words of wisdom from the carb experts?
Thanks in advance.
Mike
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Aurora, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Know your fuel system-long |
I would like to relay an incident I went through this weekend in the hopes
of preventing someone else for making a mistake that is not too uncommon.
One of our Flight members bought his RV-4 last year. Today I found out he
didn't get the knowledge transfer from the previous owner on how the fuel
system works. All is well at the end nut it could have easily ended in
disaster.
Yesterday, we briefed our Flight of 4, and each went to our planes to start
our engines. Pilot #4 walked past #2 in his -4 as he was cranking his
engine. #4 said he saw a lot of fuel coming out of the bottom of the cowl.
He didn't say anything because #2 was cranking & he didn't want to get near
the plane as it fired up. When it started, he said the fuel stopped flowing
from the cowl. We (the others) didn't know of this at that time.
Our formation took off 3 together with #4 taking off afterwards. We climbed
to get to cool air. As we passed thru 4,000 ft, #2 said he had a problem in
is RV-4. Since I was flying #3 position, I glanced over to see his prop stop
as he peeled off out of formation. We were about five miles from the
airport. Lead called #2 to switch tanks, fuel boost on and crank. No engine
start. #2 called the tower & was cleared in to land on any runway. #2
declined to call it an emergency. Formation was broke as Lead stayed with #2
while I went away from #4 to establish lots of elbow room. Went #2 was
gliding on base with plenty of altitude left, he cranked his engine again.
This time it started. He landed safely and taxied back to the hanagar.
Within minutes we were all down and talking about what just happened.
This is when #4 mentioned seeing all the fuel earlier. I asked if he pumped
the throttle. He said he gave it six pumps and I said yes, that will send
plenty of fuel overboard and dismissed it as that.
We pulled the cowl off then took the fuel hose off the crab & stuck it in a
bucket. #2 then switched back to the questioned tank & turned on the fuel
pump. Fuel squirted out the drain from the gascolator. Yep, it was
twist-to-lock open. I asked #2 if he turned on the boost pump when he
drained the gascolator. No. He just reached up in the cowl with a
screwdriver to push it in to drain some fuel. He didn't realize it had a
twist lock on it nor that fuel pressure is needed to drain much out of it.
He knows now.
There are several things that can be picked up here. If you see something
odd, don't dismis it. Say something. Know your fuel system, if nothing else,
especially if you bought your RV. Why would you need a twist-to-lock fuel
drain? Install the one Van's sells, it turns off whenever you stop pushing
on it. Altitude is your friend. Fly the plane.
Rick Caldwell
-6 Melbourne, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "House of D's" <durosset(at)fidnet.com> |
| Subject: | Tony Bingelis On Engines for sale |
FYI
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1158458417
D. DuRossette
RV-3 (3rd owner - barely started by others not yet touched by me)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim hurd" <hurd(at)boernenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aerobatics/Gyros |
> . Will the real engineers
> please stand up and give us some guidance. Thanks
>
> Louis
Please. And could a gyro-guru also address the phenomenon which causes my
DG to become a roulette wheel *sometimes* after a high-G turn or roll and
*sometimes* return to normal after another turn. Instrument performs
normally at other times. No problem with AH.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AV8TURDON(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Sport Pilot Medical |
Hey Tom,
Count me in......having been a fighter pilot, an airline pilot for 33
years and a general aviation pilot since 16 it's time to let me fly till I
know I can't anymore safely. Not because the drive to Dr. office was in bad
traffic, or I'm having a bad day only to fail my BP test. We all know when it
will be time to quit. Not Oklahoma.
Don Champagne
N767DC RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "morganhetrick" <morganhetrick(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv9 degrees of operation ailerons |
Jim:
The low pressure on top of the wing and the higher pressure
on the bottom makes equal movement cause more drag on
the bottom, the opposite of what you wnat since the down aileron is on
the outside of the turn. Therefore more up than down. This is called
aileron differential. It is used is most modern planes. Enjoy.
Morgan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Campout at Tom Martin's - Pictures |
RV-4 and 2-time HR-II builder Tom Martin was kind enough to host a RV/Rocket
campout at his farm which is only about 1 mile from St. Thomas airport in
Ontario, Canada. Of the 18 RV's/Rockets that arrived, there were many
Indiana RV's in addition to Mark Frederick's HR-II from Texas. We also had a
good attendenace from the Ontario Wing. It wasn't near the participation of
the Texas events (isn't *everything* large there? :) ) but we had a great
time!
I also had the pleasure of meeting Vince Frazier, Bob Japundza and Randy
Pflanzer w/son. I can attest that both Randy and Bob have very nice RV-6's!
You can see some pictures here while I update the Ontario Wing website:
http://members6.clubphoto.com/are393304/Jun_24_2001/
Are
RV-8 Wings
www.ontariorvators.org VAF-OW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aerobatics/Gyros |
>Please. And could a gyro-guru also address the phenomenon which causes my
>DG to become a roulette wheel *sometimes* after a high-G turn or roll and
>*sometimes* return to normal after another turn. Instrument performs
>normally at other times. No problem with AH.
>
>Jim
I'm not an engineer, but I play one on TV. *rimshot*
But seriously folks, I have also noticed my DG card spinning like mad during
a steep turn. Sometimes it recovers on heading, and sometimes it doesn't.
Pretty much a crap shoot...which is akin to being a roulette wheel. Hmm...
My AH has now become unreliable after 217 hours of operation with occasional
aerobatic shenanigans. It now tumbles at random intervals. One minute I'm
cruising along, straight and level and it's fine. Then, I look away for a
moment to admire the world slipping by at 190mph, look back at the panel,
and it's totally whacked. Flopped over. Dead. Kaputt. Taking a nap.
Sleeping with da fishes, etc.
So, in my experience, it seems you can get a couple of years from
non-cageable gyros, with only occasional aerobatics, but they won't last
much beyond that. I now wish I had made a removable gyro panel with
quick-connects for the hose connections. Oh well, live and learn.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
preparing for Arlington trip.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Is carb enrich circuit adjustable |
Mike,
It has been my experience tha some model carbs
suffer from the efficent ram air inlet on these RV's
I have known several people who experienced lean
and rich problems. Seems some carbs have the vent
hole for the float bowl on the inlet side of the throat and
some on the other side of the throttle plate. Switching to
a carb with the vent after the t/plate helped alot.
Stewart RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: aerobatics/Gyros |
do you guys think an electric gyro, turned of while doing acro , will get
damaged? it seems to me that it like holding it in your hand a turning it
over a few times, like when it is in shipping, that it want get damaged.
scott
tampa
all electric panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aerobatics/Gyros |
The gyros in the Attitude Indicator and the Directional Gyro are
positioned 90 degrees from each other. Thus, the the AI gets slammed in
a loop and the DG gets slammed in a roll. It makes no difference to the
bearings and vanes (vacuum) whether the gyros are on/off during
aerobatics--they still get slammed around. The best answer, as many
others have stated, is to put your AI/DG gyros in a removable rack and
take them out when you go 'batic. Caging a gyro is not a fix because it
is meant to be a momentary "stop" for a tumbling gyro and then released.
It is not meant to be used as a permanent lock for the gyros, as during
aerobatics, altho some use it this way. Caging it in this manner can
also damage the bearings. I am unaware of any DG's that are cageable.
Precession in a gyro can be a range of movements from "accelerated
precession" (which is what happens to your DG in a roll or steep turn)
to "tumbling".
The military surplus gyros (like the Navy AJB-3A attitude system), which
are virtually bullet proof for any maneuver are too heavy and expensive
for our aircraft.
Two-axis maneuvers (snap rolls, etc.) are even worse as is any other
type of "gyroscopic" maneuver in aerobatics. That also applies to your
prop extension. Hartzell recommends no more than +4 g's with a 2-2.5"
prop extension, as found on the HC-M2YR-1BF prop/hub that Van's sells.
Currently, electric gyros are more stable in unusual flight attitudes
than vacuum gyros, tho their life span is still unpredictable when doing
the more strenuous aerobatic routines.
Digital AHRS systems will be the answer--we just have to wait for the
price to come down.
Boyd Braem
RV-S6
N600SS
Venice, FL
Brian Denk wrote:
>
>
> >Please. And could a gyro-guru also address the phenomenon which causes my
> >DG to become a roulette wheel *sometimes* after a high-G turn or roll and
> >*sometimes* return to normal after another turn. Instrument performs
> >normally at other times. No problem with AH.
> >
> >Jim
>
> I'm not an engineer, but I play one on TV. *rimshot*
>
> But seriously folks, I have also noticed my DG card spinning like mad during
> a steep turn. Sometimes it recovers on heading, and sometimes it doesn't.
> Pretty much a crap shoot...which is akin to being a roulette wheel. Hmm...
>
> My AH has now become unreliable after 217 hours of operation with occasional
> aerobatic shenanigans. It now tumbles at random intervals. One minute I'm
> cruising along, straight and level and it's fine. Then, I look away for a
> moment to admire the world slipping by at 190mph, look back at the panel,
> and it's totally whacked. Flopped over. Dead. Kaputt. Taking a nap.
> Sleeping with da fishes, etc.
>
> So, in my experience, it seems you can get a couple of years from
> non-cageable gyros, with only occasional aerobatics, but they won't last
> much beyond that. I now wish I had made a removable gyro panel with
> quick-connects for the hose connections. Oh well, live and learn.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> preparing for Arlington trip.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot Medical |
HEAR! HEAR!
AV8TURDON(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hey Tom,
> Count me in......having been a fighter pilot, an airline pilot for 33
> years and a general aviation pilot since 16 it's time to let me fly till I
> know I can't anymore safely. Not because the drive to Dr. office was in bad
> traffic, or I'm having a bad day only to fail my BP test. We all know when it
> will be time to quit. Not Oklahoma.
>
> Don Champagne
> N767DC RV-6
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Ebay GPS-Good Deals |
If shopping for a GPS on Ebay, look for one with the
username seaero. Great place to deal with. They even
loaded the new database on my 195. It was advertised
new, and was in perfect condition. I even got a
christmas card thanking for my business. They also
have a website, http://www.seaerospace.com
====
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Getting Close
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aerobatics/Gyros |
Michael wrote:
> Hard on those little bearings not to be spinning. They will wear out
faster
> if not being used.
So, does this mean that they wear out sitting on the shelf in the hangar
when you remove them?
Is there anything like a "fact" concerning akro damage to AIs & DGs & TCs?
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aerobatics/Gyros |
>My AH has now become unreliable after 217 hours of operation with occasional
>aerobatic shenanigans. It now tumbles at random intervals. One minute I'm
>cruising along, straight and level and it's fine. Then, I look away for a
>moment to admire the world slipping by at 190mph, look back at the panel,
>and it's totally whacked. Flopped over. Dead. Kaputt. Taking a nap.
>Sleeping with da fishes, etc.
>
>So, in my experience, it seems you can get a couple of years from
>non-cageable gyros, with only occasional aerobatics, but they won't last
>much beyond that. I now wish I had made a removable gyro panel with
>quick-connects for the hose connections. Oh well, live and learn.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>preparing for Arlington trip.
Brian,
I have seen many Horizon gyros go bad after a few years. All of them in
aircraft that never exceed 60 deg. of bank or 20 deg. pitch. There are
many reasons for gyros to go bad other than light aerobatics. Air
cleanliness is the chief culprit, and a filter can not always clean
completely. The repair shops report seeing poor gyro life expectancy in
aircraft with pilots who are smokers. The other source of gyro death is
from the installer. If you ever drop a gyro, or smack it hard (even if its
in its original package), you will shorten the life-span dramatically.
Louis
Louis I. Willig
larywil(at)home.com
RV-4, N180PF, 115 hrs. and climbing fast
I0-360, Hartzell C/S
(610) 668-4964
Penn Valley, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Laurence" <plaurencepc(at)hotmail.com> |
mail test
//explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aerobatics/Gyros |
That's a stupid question, Hal--
The gyros are only removed when aerobatic flight is planned--all other
times they are in the aircraft, whether turned on or not. It is well
known that gyros, esp. the cheap ones, wear on the bearings during
prolonged stasis or excessive wear and tear from eccentric forces.
As previously stated by prior posters, all (or almost all) competition
aero pilots have removeable gyro panels or no gyros. They put them back
in when they have to ferry the plane between events, wich is most of the
time. Some guys just keep buying new gyros. Airplanes are expensive,
always have been, always will.
Boyd Braem
kempthornes wrote:
>
>
> Michael wrote:
> > Hard on those little bearings not to be spinning. They will wear out
> faster
> > if not being used.
>
> So, does this mean that they wear out sitting on the shelf in the hangar
> when you remove them?
>
> Is there anything like a "fact" concerning akro damage to AIs & DGs & TCs?
>
> Hal Kempthorne
> RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: aerobatics/Gyros |
In a message dated 6/24/01 7:32:59 PM Pacific Daylight Time, larywil(at)home.com
writes:
<< >So, in my experience, it seems you can get a couple of years from
>non-cageable gyros, with only occasional aerobatics, but they won't last
>much beyond that. I now wish I had made a removable gyro panel with
>quick-connects for the hose connections. Oh well, live and learn.
>
>Brian Denk >>
Well I do light acro virtually every time I go up (3 yrs and 430 hrs) and my
always running IFR brand vacuum artificial horizon and directional gyros
still perform as new. No problemo. Don't worry, be happy and go fly your
birds however you like. If the gyros go, Grasshopper, it will be their time
to leave.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot Medical |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Knoll" <tripodcat(at)msn.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2001 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sport Pilot Medical
>
> I am sure that the several pilots that have replied to this subject are p> robably
blessed with the knowledge to know when to quit and the honesty t> o do
so at that time. I was an AME for about 18 years +/- and I can tell
> you that there are those that are not so blessed or honest. The human an> imal
is a funny thing when it comes to self discipline and not all are ab> le to
deny themselves. Hence the medical, or some type of neutral third p> arty evaluation
is necessary.
Bruce,
While what you say is true, what is the harm. If I am "safe" to drive a car
why not a plane.
The odds of me having a heart attack while driving and plowing into the
forty kids waiting for the school bus is much higher than me crashing my
plane into the school. There is NO RIGHT ANSWER but several ways to view
the problem.
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | 4.3 hour report (long) please read and comment |
N851JC has flown her first 4 hours. I stopped by the airport last night on
the way home from work to do a little late afternoon flying, taking
advantage of the ultra-smooth air at dusk. What a rush! Flying along the
Mississippi river as the sun went down in glass-smooth air somehow reminded
me of when I was a kid water-skiing, when all the ripples disappeared from
the surface, and you could speed along, just making turns on the silky
surface. I stayed out till just after dark, never venturing too far from
home. I've always loved flying at night, and in the RV it's better than
ever. I was happy to see that the glareshield did its job, and there were no
reflections from the panel lights on the windscreen to distract me.
First the good stuff. The airplane flies like a dream. Yeah, yeah, I know
you've heard it from everybody else, but I'll say it too: "you're gonna love
this airplane!" Nothing tricky here. Everything is easy. I like to slowly
add throttle on takeoff over about five seconds then advance to full
throttle. By the time the throttle is all the way in, she wants to fly.
Anything less than about 100 kts (I use kts because that's what I'm used to)
yields what feels like a very steep climb. To someone accustomed to flying
Cessnas for about 1,300 hours, this feels like climbing like a bat out of
hell! I'll publish all the numbers that I end up with on my website later.
Stalls are clean and easy, occurring just under 50 kts. No scary wingdrop -
recovery is quick and easy with just release of back pressure on the stick.
I'm breaking the newly rebuilt Aerosport 0-360 A1A in by running it at 25
square - I've been told by everyone not to baby it. I usually stay between
3 and 4 thousand feet so that I can maintain 25" of manifold pressure.
Cylinder head temps have been good despite ambient temps near 90 degrees. I
guess all that work on the cooling baffles paid off - the cowl does not
bulge out anywhere during flight as I have heard others complain of.
Leaning back to about ten gallons per hour gives me cylinder head temps of
just under 400 degrees. No. 1 cylinder is, as expected, the coolest (around
375) and no. 3 is hottest (around 400). EGT's are all in the same range,
around 1375 in my installation. I LOVE the Electronics International
Ultimate Analyzer instrument. I have the GEM bar-graph style analyzer in my
C-182, and the E.I. instrument gives me so much more information! I like the
actual numbers rather than the bar graph. She has used one quart of oil
since startup.
She flies very well at slow speed, although I'd appreciate suggestions on
how to slow this thing down in the pattern. I try to gradually reduce power
prior to landing to avoid shock-cooling the engine. The CS prop helps, but
flap speed sure is slow - I mean, I've got to be back at 10 - 12 inches of
M.P. and point the nose up to get into the white arc.
Now for the profound statement: This is the easiest plane to land that I
have ever flown. I'm comparing it to Cessna 152's through 182's, Piper
Warriors, Archers, Bonanzas, Vikings and anything else I can think of. I
think it has to do with the control effectiveness through the wide range of
speeds. Whereas the spam cans tend to wallow around at low speed, this baby
flies great right down to the numbers at 70 kts. One thing that I've noticed
is that I use full aft elevator trim on final to keep the nose up. This
substantiates my crude bathroom-scale weighing which gave me a pretty
forward C.G. I've been flying with 50 lbs of lead shot in the aft baggage
compartment.
After main wheel touchdown, I need full aft stick to keep the nose from
clunking down. Full back stick, and it eases down gently.
I have a number of bugs to work out.
1. The left fuel gauge (cheap Westach gauge) is inop - don't know if it's
the sender or the wire.
2. Something is screwy with the Microencoder - UPS SL 70 transponder. It
works fine on the ground. The SL 70 reads out the same as the Microencoder
when the encoder is set to 29.92. After takeoff, however, the transponder
does not seem to be correct. The altitude readouts are negative on the
transponder at low altitude and read about 6,000 ft at 3,000 ft. The encoder
altitude (i.e., my "altimeter") seems to be correct. The airspeed on the
encoder is the same as my backup conventional airspeed indicator. At first
I thought I might have the pitot and static connections reversed on the back
of the encoder, but this is not the case.
3. The oil pressure indication fluctuates wildly. Could I have a little
leftover preservative oil in the line between the cylinder and the oil
pressure transducer? Also, the pressure transducer is located on the
firewall at a place that is physically lower than the port from which the
line comes off the cylinder. Is this a problem?
4. My expensive R.C. Allen electric artif horizon works like crap. I was
careful to run it about once a month during the year I had it in my panel
during construction. You have to pull the cage knob to make it "center."
Then it works fine for a few minutes but then rolls over and down and has to
be reset. I noticed last night that the cage knob is not quite flush with
the instrument. I'll fix that this morning and see if it helps. If not,
then it's going back to the Gyro House!
5. The digital compass part of the Microencoder seems to only work going
southbound - probably some magnetic interference from something on the
panel.
There are probably a few other things that I can't think of right now - I
left my squawk list at the airport. Sun is coming up - gotta go fly!
Jerry Carter
Memphis, TN
My RV-8A website:
http://rv8asite.homestead.com/mainpage.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N851JC flies |
Jerry,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Cowl painted - panel in - finishing elect hookups)
Niantic, CT (Westerly airport)
****************
>After two and a half years, my RV-8A flew today for the first time. I'll
>post numbers and pics on my website later. For now, I'll just say it was a
>GAS! I don't think I've ever had that kind of rush flying. I'll repeat what
>everyone before me has said - it's worth all the work!
>
>
>Jerry Carter
>Memphis, TN
>
>My RV-8A website:
>http://rv8asite.homestead.com/mainpage.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
06/25/2001 08:01:52 AM
Jim, I spoke with the manager of Powerflow systems at SNF. Do a search on
powerflow in the archives and see the discussion on these exhaust systems.
The consensus was that they work. They are currently working on a small
homebuilt system for an RV but there is no expected time. This is a tuned
exhaust system that is suposed to give you in the area of 20% more HP.
Personally I was pretty skeptical about this but lots of people say its
true.
Eric
Jim Bean (at)matronics.com on 06/22/2001 11:45:56 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Mufflers
listers,
Is anyone incorporating a muffler in their exhaust system? It seems that
most USA builders are going for max performance over confort. European
builders of course have tough noise laws to deal with. The archive has
little or nothing on this topic.
Jim Bean
RV-8 Wiring fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rpflanze(at)iquest.net |
Listers,
Are Barstad posted a message Sunday about the Indy group going north over the
weekend to meet up with the Ontario wing of Van's Air Force. I'd reference
his message but it's on my computer at home and I'm at work.
This trip had been in the works for a little while and the airshow at London,
Ontario was a good reason for the Indy group to make the trip north. We had
a fantastic time! We had about 7 ships from Indiana make it and we met up with
Mark Frederick from Team Rocket along the way.
Our Canadian friends set a new standard for hospitality. Tom Martin and his
new HR Rocket was our host. He greeted us at St Thomas airport with a cookout
on Saturday. He then tossed us the keys to three cars so we could drive over
to London for the airshow. He even had some free passes to the show too. When
we got back, he secured some hangars for us and off we went to his family farm
for an evening cookout. Steaks, fresh strawberries and ice cream, and plenty
of liquid refreshments were served followed by a gathering around the bon fire.
The weather was superb and all the Ontario group were more friendly than my
best friend! In the morning, Tom escorted us to a breakfast flyin at Reese's
Corner to meet more of the local flying crowd.
On behalf of the Indianapolis First Air Force, I would like to gratefully thank
the Ontario Wing of Van's Air Force and Tom Martin in particular, for hosting
us and putting up with our tall tales.
You meet the nicest people in an RV. I'm proud to say that during the entire
weekend, not one person got clecoed either.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (170 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-6 Initial Canopy Fit |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
06/25/2001 09:16:42 AM
For the archives:
Finally cut the canopy this weekend. Pretty much followed Jim Cone's
directions with the exception of the initial fit. I think I came up with a
pretty easy way to do the initial fit on an RV-6 canopy.
First when the canopy comes out of the crate the guy that molded it puts
marks on the front and rear part that gets cut off. Be sure to continue
those marks up on the canopy before you trim the mold overhang off. Be sure
to get the marks up on the canopy to the point that its extending past the
radius on the front of the canopy.
Initially fit the canopy with the fwd top skin off so that the fwd lower
corners will not interfere with the top skin. You are safe to cut the fwd
part at the radius where the mold skirt turns up into the actual
windscreen. What really matters is the canopy goes on straight and the
curvature of the canopy fits the center support bar. The first time you put
the canopy on, align the marks that go down the center (this is after you
have trimmed it enough so that it fits on the frame without contacting the
fuselage) and get the canopy "eyeball level and symmetrical". Run a 3/4
inch strip of tape along the canopy rollbar to get a general position of
how the rollbar will lay (this is not for the cut). Now measure along the
tape from each lower mark made by the mold until you find a center line at
the top of the canopy. Mark this center position.
I really did not want to cut the handle post off like Jim cone talks about.
With this thing sticking up it makes it pretty tough to fit the canopy
bubble so that the center bar curvature is correct to the canopy. On my
canopy that little post stuck up exactly 1/4 inch. Go back to the very aft
end of the center bar support and tape a 1 in. length of 1/4 in. dowel on
top of the bar back where it gets flat. Cover the dowel and the handle post
with about 3 layers of duct tape each. Now have two helpers set the canopy
on the plane with you in the cockpit. Place the center mark you made
directly on the handle post and align the marks at either end of the canopy
to get it straight. Now run your hand along the center bar and you will be
able to feel any variance in shape between the center support bar and the
canopy. Have your helpers move the canopy fwd and aft on the plane until
the 1/4 in gap is uniform. When you are convinced, have them lift the front
just a little and remove the duct tape. Set the center mark back on the
handle post and draw a line with a sharpie up through the center of the
post. Take the canopy off and set it in the sun if you can.
Predrill the circle you made for the post then open it up with a unibit and
sandpaper. BE VERY CAREFUL OF THE WELD BEAD ON THE CENTER POST, grind it
flush to the frame so it does not hit the hole you just drilled. That could
be a huge point of stress.
Set the canopy on the frame, true it up and really tape it into position
tight against the fuselage side, run tape again just flush with the rollbar
and as Jim said, make the giant leap of faith. Before cutting, the canopy
is a misshaped unmoving bubble. When you split the thing, its a wet dish
rag, it just falls into position. Be very careful to leave as much material
back on the slider as you can. If you have to cut something short, cut the
canopy too close to the roll bar. You can make all kinds of adjustments
with the windscreen but your canopy slider will not adjust, what you have
is what you got.
After this just follow Jims instructions in "My Canopy, oh my canopy, part
deux"? A MUST READ FOR SLIDER BUILDERS" (yes, I'm yelling).
Hope it helps
Eric Henson
Gater RVater
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
06/25/2001 09:20:04 AM
Oops, I meant to say 20 more HP NOT 20% more HP. That was a pre-coffee
post.
Eric
Eric J. Henson/CHASE(at)CHASE@matronics.com on 06/25/2001 07:59:00 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Mufflers
This is a tuned exhaust system that is suposed to give you in the area of
20% more HP.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AV8TURDON(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot Medical |
And I sir, have to agree with you in part. Isn't it a shame we all have to
pay the price for a few.
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gas colator/Oil cooler installation question |
Hi Bert,
I also have the Niagra and I bought the oil cooler firewall install kit from
Vans. It comes with all the necessary instructions, hardware and the flange
for the scat tube to hook to. You can see pictures of my install here:
www.ericsrv6a.com
Go to the firewall forward page 1 and scroll down.
I am still reconsidering the gascolator install (see it on the same page). I
installed directly under the oil cooler which means the hot air from the oil
cooler will dump right on the gascolator. So I'll either remove it in favor
of in line fuel filters or build a cooling shroud around it and run a blast
tude to it. Haven't decided yet.
Regards,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Engine Baffles)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
In a message dated 6/24/01 8:32:14 PM Central Daylight Time,
bertrv6(at)yahoo.com writes:
<< I am ready to start the installation of oil cooler
(I have the Niagara unit) and also gas colator..
I like the idea of installing oil cooler on the
fire wall; just because it seems easy to me..
but would like to hear comments and or suggestions
as to best to do this... Do I rivet angles (will be
two right? top and bottom)with plate nuts, to support
oil cooler. Or is best to Plate nuts in fire wall
and bolts, both oil cooler and angles?
Gas colator question; would like to know best
location, some of you have used...need to use
reinforce
plate, to attach braket? I guess, as low as one
can, without interfering with engine mount?..
I have heard some people, use heavy plate, so
gas colator is moved forward, from fire wall...
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Cowl Side Hinges |
In a message dated 6/23/01 6:47:18 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca writes:
> The plans say to raise the side cowling hinges at the rear of the cowling to
> make the cowling easier to install.
>
> Looks to me like it would be better to keep the bottom hinge eyes raised
for
> the full length, in other words leave the hinge raised and level from back
> to front with all the bottom hinge eyes above the join line.
>
> Anyone done that or see any pitfalls??
>
> Also what gap should I leave between top & bottom cowl halves for paint?
>
> Thanks,
> George McNutt
> Langley B.C.
George,
Leaving them high in the back is a good idea, much easier to get the cowling
on and off. It should also work to leave them high in the front if your pins
are inserted from the back through the firewall.
Kevin -9A
Apex, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hey Charlie! RV-8 |
Canopy, how to attach to frame ??
Listers,
Tonight I will bring the above mentioned tools home and scan them. This way
anyone who is interested can see what they look like. I had hoped that they
would still be on sale on EBay (so I could simply provide a web link for you to
see) Since there are none currently for sale on EBay, I'll be happy to send a
scanned image of these tools and answer questions to anyone who is interested.
Please respond OFF list.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 Fuselage
Boca Raton, Fl.
PS You should soon be able to get an unbiased appraisal of these tools from
Eric Hensen, after he finishes using them!
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
>
> Larry, I have not used them either but fellow lister Charlie Kuss has a wiz
> bang rivnut tool with a notching device that is supossed to prevent the nut
> from spinning. I'm not clear how that works exactly because I have not yet
> screwed up a dozen of them but I will soon. Maybe ole Charlie can give us a
> run down on that.
> Eric
>
>
> > Has anyone used riv-nuts set in the frame to hold the canopy on?
> > Seems like
> > that would be the way to control the tension of the fasteners,
> > without nuts
> > on the inside....
> >
> > John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot Medical |
The danger from an incapacitated person flying a general aviation plane is
FAR LESS than that of driving a car because of the reduced probablility of
hitting someone. Even with the assumption that a light plane has more
kinetic energy than a car, the odds of hurting someone with a light plane
crash are much less as compared to driving. Much of the time, you are
almost always within 100 or 200-feet of another person while driving. Not
the case while flying.
Imagine for a moment while driving what you'd hit if you passed out at any
given time. Odds are it would be a house in a neighborhood or another
oncoming car. Think about it while flying... almost always it would be a
field or vacant land (at least until the urban sprawl takes up all the open
land in the US - I guess that's another rant). I know I try to avoid dense
urban areas when flying single engine planes, just bacause I wouldn't want
to have to make a forced landing in these areas should the engine quit.
Sorry - but I totally reject the need for a once-every-two or three year
health evaluation for private pilots, when each and every pilot makes a
self-assessment each day he or she flies.
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Davis" <jd(at)lri.sjhc.london.on.ca> |
| Subject: | looking for Delrin... |
Just wondered if there were any homebuilders subscribed to this list who
might have surplus Delrin they would like to sell. A square foot of 3/4"
would be more than enough. I will happily pick up postage charges on top of
the cost of the piece. (phenolic or UHMW would also do) Thanks.
Regards, J.
flying: Zenair STOL CH701/582 C-IGGY , >100 hrs.
building: Sonex #325, engine undecided, probably Jab 2200
| J. Davis, M.Sc. (comp_sci) | email: jd(at)uwo.ca |
| SysMgr, research programmer | voice: (519) 646 6100 x64166 |
| Lawson Research Institute | fax: (519) 646 6135 |
| London, Ontario | lriweb.sjhc.london.on.ca/~jd |
Failure to plan ahead on someone else's part does not constitute an
emergency on my part.
- David W. Barts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 4.3 hour report (long) please read and comment |
Hi Jerry,
Glad to hear everything is going so well. The trickiest part of flying an
RV is slowing it down. Of course *real* men fly behind FP props because
it's more difficult. (Note, the foregoing statement is a feeble attempt at
humor in light of recent posts and should not be misconstrued as a flame to
anyone's choice of wheel position, penis size, or parents naming them after
sheet metal tools)
Personally, I also try to keep power reductions as gradual as possible and
the best tip I can give you is to plan ahead. Most of my cross country
flying is in the West, so I do a lot of high altitude cruising. I plan my
descent at 6 miles per 1000' of altitude. If I need to descend to a TPA of
4000' while cruising at 13,500 I start down around 57 miles out. This
allows a 500fpm descent at 20"MAP. I keep adjusting the throttle to 19-20"
and I'll increase the descent rate slightly toward the end so that I reach
pattern altitude around 3 miles from the airport. Then I gradually decrease
MAP to 15" and this will generally get the airplane slowed to flap speed as
I enter the pattern. With a CS prop you don't even have to be this careful.
Obviously you can't always plan that far ahead, but that's what I shoot for.
An RV (at least with FP) can't *go* down and *slow* down at the same time,
so I always try to do one or the other.
There are times when it just doesn't come together and you need to
aggressively pull the power - I just try to be as gentle with the ol' girl
as possible.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)micron.net
> She flies very well at slow speed, although I'd appreciate suggestions on
> how to slow this thing down in the pattern. I try to gradually reduce
power
> prior to landing to avoid shock-cooling the engine. The CS prop helps,
but
> flap speed sure is slow - I mean, I've got to be back at 10 - 12 inches of
> M.P. and point the nose up to get into the white arc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Help with fuel lines |
| From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Try filling with play sand. don't forget to clean the sand out.
Don Jordan - 6A - N6DJ - dons6a(at)juno.com - Arlington, TX
***********************************************************************
>
> List:
>
> I have ruined about all the 3/8" aluminum fuel lines I care to. I
> just can't
> seem to get the bends right and when I finally get close I put a
> kink in it.
> Can I use some type of aeroquip hose for the lines to run from the
> fuel
> selector to each fitting for the wings?
>
> Right now I have a standing order with ACS to send me 15' or 3/8"
> tubing
> everyday until otherwise advised !!! At this rate maybe my great
> grandkids
> can finish this plane for their kids !!
>
> Len Leggette, RV-8A
> Greensboro, North Carolina (N901LL res)
> Wiring & Plumbing
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rv9 degrees of operation ailerons |
| From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
writes:
>
> Doing the little things that take forever, before putting on the
> bottom
> wing skins.
>
> On of them is installing the little 914 aileron stop. The drawing
> shows
> a rotation of 32 degrees, limited by the 914 stop.
>
> My concern is: going the other direction I only have 26 degrees of
> travel before the nose of the aileron hits the aileron fairing.
>
$################
I don't think it is to hit anything.
> Do they travel further in one direction than the other, because of a
> different ratio in the bellcrank?
> ###########
Yes the angle of the bellcrank determines the movement of the down ailron
based on the stop of the up.
I am on a 6A so the angles are likely different.
Don Jordan - 6A - N6DJ - dons6a(at)juno.com - Arlington, TX
***********************************************************************
> Barry Pote RV9a Wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
Northeast Listers,
I'm on vacation 6/30 - 7/8 and plan on flying around the Northeast. If
anybody is interested in a ride in an RV-6A, email me at the address's
below.
Sat/Sun, 6/30-7/1, I'll be in Oswego, NY, giving a few rides to some
friends, and enjoying the EAA Chapter breakfast on Sunday Morning. Other
locations during the week will be Beverly Mass, and CHatham Mass......
Depending on the wind, I let those who have pilot certificates, sit in the
left seat.....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV (1730 hrs/7.75 Yrs)
E. Windsor, CT 06088
WK Email: stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com
Hm/Travel Email: wstucklen1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Root Fairings |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Ok, is it just me, or are the wing root fairings that
>Van's provides don't even closely resemble the
>curvature of the fuselage? What is the best way to
>install these?
Like many parts, they are not intended to fit out of the box. One method
is too fix them in place as close to the fuselage as possible and measure
back from the fuselage a fixed amount in many places. Mark these places
and trim to the marks. Many also trim the outer edges with a jog so the
edge distance to the screws is about the same everywhere.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)cannondesign.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 / 6a kit for sale |
RV-6 / 6a kit for sale.
Empennage: Complete except for fiberglass tips. Includes electric elevator trim
kit. All parts are alodined and primed with Marhyde primer.
Wings & Phlogiston Spar: Both skeletons assembled. Skins drilled to left wing.
ALL parts (assembled or not) are alodined and primed with Deft epoxy primer
(Mil-P-23377G).
Both kits are the pre-punched versions purchased in 1997 & 1998 by myself. Construction
is excellent. Preview plans and Orndorff videos included for both kits.
Priced to sell: $5000
If all items were purchased separately the price would be more than $6500 for unassembled
kits. The reason for selling is that my wife and I have our first
child on the way and an old house to rebuild first. The tools are not for sale;
I will be keeping them to guarantee that I will build another RV in the near
future!
Scott Kuebler
Buffalo, NY
716-695-1987 home
716-510-0318 cell
skuebler(at)cannondesign.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AV8TURDON(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Root Fairings |
Paul,
Lay the fairing parallel to the fuselage within 1/8 inch of touching
then take a protractor with pencil in it and open it about 1/4 inch. Score
the fairing while holding it against the fuselage. Viola a perfect line on
the fairing matching the curvature of the fuselage.
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
SNIP I have ruined about all the 3/8" aluminum fuel lines I care to. SNIP
Get a tubing bender or....
Another alternative is to fill the tube with very fine, packed sand, put a
plug in each end and bend carefully. Be sure to clean it out well when
finished. You can steal the sand out of your beadblaster and return it
when finished.
Or get some low temperature melting alloy, and fill the tube with molten
alloy. This works great for 4130 tubing. You'll need to be careful when
you melt (use a hot airgun) it out of aluminum tubing.
There's always more than one way to skin a cat.
Vince in Indiana
HRII under constr.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
I am seriously considering using Aeroquip hoses for these lines as they seem
almost impossible to cut, bend and fit in this space. I'd like to hear from
someone who has used flex hose here.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
-----Original Message-----
SNIP I have ruined about all the 3/8" aluminum fuel lines I care to. SNIP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 4.3 hour report (long) please read and comment |
Jerry,
Two quick notes here. Please be careful about flying after legal sunset. I
believe that if you check you Operating Limitations for Phase I test flights
it will state DAY/VFR only. Please be careful and don't get caught.
For the transponder, I had something of the same type problem. I found that
the data wires from the microEncoder to the transponder were incorrectly
pinned. So you may want to check the wiring harness and double check the
pins. It sounds like the transponder is getting information but in the
wrong sequence.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
todd_rudberg(at)yahoo.com, czechsix(at)juno.com, menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com
| Subject: | Todd's Canopies---RV-8/8A builders listen up! |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Ok guys,
I asked Todd Silver at Todd's Canopies about a group discount on -8/8A
canopies. Here is his reply:
"If I get to sell 4 at a time, I'll take $100 off the listed
price. For 6 at a time I'll take $125 off the price. This discount
applies to
the tint and clear that I have now. I will have to have a bunch of orders
for
me to drop the price any more.
The lighter tint? I will have to order enough plastic to make 12
canopies.
The only way I want to do that is with some really firm commitments."
Translation of above:
For 4 orders, a clear canopy is $350, tinted is $500. For 6 orders,
clear canopy is $325 and tinted is $475. Remember this includes shipping
and a free replacement guarantee if you break it during installation, and
you can choose either 3/16 or 1/4" plastic.
I need some firm commitments to place a group order. Please reply
off-list and tell me (1) what thickness you want and (2) what tint
(clear, or light tint like Vans sells, or darker tint). I'm hoping we
can get enough commitments for the light tint like Vans sells to convince
Todd to provide this option.
FYI, I am only trying to gather commitments, I'm not taking your
money....Todd will handle the transactions directly. Once again if you
want to contact Todd directly for questions you can reach him at
www.kgarden.com/todd/ or call him at 954-579-0874 or e-mail him at
bsilver05(at)aol.com.
Regards,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage, O-360-A4A, Sensenich 87"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Firewall Battery Box... |
After a quick search of the archives it seems that I must once again poll
the collective knowledge of the fellow listers....so.... I have a PC-680
batter that I am planning on putting on the firewall of the 6A. I have build
a box out for the battery that is attached to the firewall by 4 bolts. The
box is stout, supported on the bottom with .125 x 1.5 x 1.5 angle and a
straight piece of .125 alum along the backside. Rest of box is mainly .063
alum with 3/4 x 3/4 x .125 angle. My question is: When attaching the
battery box to the firewall what is the best way to do this. My initial
thought was to align the angle to the stiffeners on the back side of the
firewall to provide support. But this only allows 3 of the 4 bolts to be
attached this way. Im not sure of what size of bolts to use (an A&P friend
suggested #6). I thinking now maybe 4 of the #6 bolts with a .125 spacer
(about 2.5in by 2.5 in) on the rear of the firewall for support. The battery
and box are about 16 lbs and at 6 gs that is almost 100lbs of force on the
box. Any ideas...?
Kurt in OKC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 4.3 hour report (long) please read and comment |
Jerry, these kind of detailed reports are great, I'm sure the other listers
appreciate them. I've made a few comments embedded below...
> Stalls are clean and easy, occurring just under 50 kts. No scary
wingdrop -
> recovery is quick and easy with just release of back pressure on the
stick.
Did you notice any shaking of the HS? From talking to other RV-8 builders it
seems that about 50% of the planes demonstrate this and 50% don't. I have
spoken with Ken Krueger at Van's on this and will take him up in mine for
further study. I volunteered to let Van the Man take it up but I don't think
he'd fit in it with my fixed rudder pedals all the way aft.
> I'm breaking the newly rebuilt Aerosport 0-360 A1A in by running it at 25
> square - I've been told by everyone not to baby it. I usually stay
between
> 3 and 4 thousand feet so that I can maintain 25" of manifold pressure.
> Cylinder head temps have been good despite ambient temps near 90 degrees.
> I guess all that work on the cooling baffles paid off - the cowl does not
> bulge out anywhere during flight as I have heard others complain of.
> Leaning back to about ten gallons per hour gives me cylinder head temps of
> just under 400 degrees. No. 1 cylinder is, as expected, the coolest
(around
> 375) and no. 3 is hottest (around 400). EGT's are all in the same range,
> around 1375 in my installation. I LOVE the Electronics International
> Ultimate Analyzer instrument. I have the GEM bar-graph style analyzer in
my
> C-182, and the E.I. instrument gives me so much more information! I like
the
> actual numbers rather than the bar graph. She has used one quart of oil
> since startup.
Your CHTs will likely drop further by 10 hours. Mine run consisntently in
the mid-300 range now (Also a Bart Lalonde O-360 A1A).
> She flies very well at slow speed, although I'd appreciate suggestions on
> how to slow this thing down in the pattern. I try to gradually reduce
power
> prior to landing to avoid shock-cooling the engine. The CS prop helps,
but
> flap speed sure is slow - I mean, I've got to be back at 10 - 12 inches of
> M.P. and point the nose up to get into the white arc.
Flap speed indeed seems slow! I slow down before entering the pattern by
pulling power back to 15-17" as I approach the pattern area and just letting
the speed decay. At that MAP level there is still a load on the engine so
I'm
not worried about shock cooling (other experts feel free to comment on
this). As I'm setting up my 45 I am now at 15-16" (15 solo, 16" with bubba
on board), then nudge the prop to full fine *after* the MAP has settled and
some speed has been lost. I like to do this so the pax can't tell I adjusted
the prop. I then fly the pattern at 15" which yields about 125-135 mph
depending on load. This is slightly faster than the Cessnas but still
integrates you into the flow nicely. Any lower power setting and the tail
will start to sag as you begin to fall off the back of the power curve. It
can be done though if you get behind a slower aircraft.
> Now for the profound statement: This is the easiest plane to land that I
> have ever flown. I'm comparing it to Cessna 152's through 182's, Piper
> Warriors, Archers, Bonanzas, Vikings and anything else I can think of. I
> think it has to do with the control effectiveness through the wide range
of
> speeds. Whereas the spam cans tend to wallow around at low speed, this
baby
> flies great right down to the numbers at 70 kts.
This is where the -8A shines. With the taildragger I've found that for the
3-4 second period just after your mains touch it is absolutely critical to
keep your eyes locked down the runway... don't blink, don't look at the flap
switch, just stay focused down the runway and on keeping it straight and
continuing to bring the stick back. After that your speed has decayed to the
point where correcting directional deviations is easier. With the -8A I
would imagine this is not as critical. I've also found that 80-85 mph (70-73
kts) is indeed the best approach speed.
> One thing that I've noticed
> is that I use full aft elevator trim on final to keep the nose up. This
> substantiates my crude bathroom-scale weighing which gave me a pretty
> forward C.G.
One of the nice surprises about putting bubba in the back is that you don't
need to trim at all
> I have a number of bugs to work out.
> 4. My expensive R.C. Allen electric artif horizon works like crap. I was
> careful to run it about once a month during the year I had it in my panel
> during construction. You have to pull the cage knob to make it "center."
> Then it works fine for a few minutes but then rolls over and down and has
to
> be reset. I noticed last night that the cage knob is not quite flush with
> the instrument. I'll fix that this morning and see if it helps. If not,
> then it's going back to the Gyro House!
The *exact same thing* happened to me! My electric DG would also drift off
about 40 degrees in ten minutes. They both went back to RC Allen and tab was
$450. Apparently based on manufacture date one of them was under warranty
and the other (the horizon) was not. The DG was discovered to have some true
defects, but they told me that the horizon was bad from sitting for 9
months. Wasn't it nice of Pacific Coast Avionics to tell me about this? And
of course RC Allen helped by putting this in their documentation (kidding,
there is NO DOCUMENTATION). As you can tell I'm pretty happy about this. My
horizon has been returned and now functions well. The DG is due back this
week, and I'm $450 poorer.
> There are probably a few other things that I can't think of right now - I
> left my squawk list at the airport. Sun is coming up - gotta go fly!
Seems my squawk, or "want to change" list, is perpetual. Go fly!
Randy Lervold
RV-8, N558RL, 50-5 hrs.
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
Ryan,
Check the NOAA web site. I know that the NOAA station as well as FSS
here at GTF maintains records of VMC/IMC days. The last one I got from
them also had a chart showing the best times to fly. As a matter of
fact we have an average 328 days VMC as long as you don't count the wind
factor. ( Chigago is not the windiest city...Great falls is!)
Jim Duckett
Working on the new 7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot Medical |
WEll said Bruce
Any Government by nature will never give up it's
right to dictate to the people. Obliviously private
pilots need to be watched very closely lest they go
flying without a medical and hurt them self. And more
important what would happen to all the government
bureaucrats associated with the processing of third
class medicals do. I pedal my bike out to the airport
and at times I feel the government should create a 4th
class license for biker's (God forbid if I should lose
my equilibrium and crash into a 18 wheeler.)
RV6A CP Spining and grining
Retired ATC (Center)
NRA LIFE MEMBER
--- Tom Gummo wrote:
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bruce Knoll" <tripodcat(at)msn.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2001 8:04 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Sport Pilot Medical
>
>
>
> >
> > I am sure that the several pilots that have
> replied to this subject are p> > robably blessed with the knowledge to know when
to
> quit and the honesty t> > o do so at that time. I was an AME for about 18
> years +/- and I can tell
> > you that there are those that are not so blessed
> or honest. The human an> > imal is a funny thing when it comes to self
> discipline and not all are ab> > le to deny themselves. Hence the medical, or
some
> type of neutral third p> > arty evaluation is necessary.
>
> Bruce,
> While what you say is true, what is the harm. If I
> am "safe" to drive a car
> why not a plane.
> The odds of me having a heart attack while driving
> and plowing into the
> forty kids waiting for the school bus is much higher
> than me crashing my
> plane into the school. There is NO RIGHT ANSWER but
> several ways to view
> the problem.
> Tom
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Laurence" <plaurencepc(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hey Charlie! RV-8 |
Canopy, how to attach to frame ??
charlie.
just a response. my mail does not to be geeting through
peter
dot nor archive
>>Listers,
> Tonight I will bring the above mentioned tools home and scan them. This
>way
>anyone who is interested can see what they look like. I had hoped that they
>would still be on sale on EBay (so I could simply provide a web link for
>you to
>see) Since there are none currently for sale on EBay, I'll be happy to send
>a
>scanned image of these tools and answer questions to anyone who is
>interested.
>Please respond OFF list.
>Charlie Kuss
>RV-8 Fuselage
>Boca Raton, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rpflanze(at)iquest.net |
Wow, I think this is overkill a little. Here's what I see as drawbacks, in no
particular order:
1) Cost. You can buy a lot of tubing benders, flaring tools, and aluminum
tubing for the price of hose fittings, mandrels, and hose.
2) Cost. I mention it twice because those darn mandrels and fittings are expensive.
3) Wear. Aeroquip hose has a life span. It must be replaced every so often.
Aluminum tubing will last indefinetely.
4) Application. For penetration points, you now have to drill a much larger
hole in support of a much larger grommet.
5) Installation. An aluminum tube can be bent into a smaller diameter loop
than what you can bend an Aeroquip hose.
I think it's pretty easy to bend the tubing if you just buy those spring tubing
benders. They're pretty cheap too. But hey, it's your bird, do what ever you'd
prefer.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (170 hours)
>
>I am seriously considering using Aeroquip hoses for these lines as they seem
>almost impossible to cut, bend and fit in this space. I'd like to hear from
>someone who has used flex hose here.
>
>Steve Soule
>Huntington, VT
>
>-----Original Message-----
>
>SNIP I have ruined about all the 3/8" aluminum fuel lines I care to. SNIP
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Ervin <n57wc(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slowing Down |
This is just a question and not meant to elicit crude
or insulting remarks.
Has anyone tried those electric spoilers that pop up
out of the wings, I've seen them used on plastic
airplanes!!
I can't remember what the brand name is, but I had a
friend that had some on his lancair and he could slow
down to Vfe in a heartbeat or lose altitude and still
keep power up to avoid cooling shock.
Just a thought!
Bill Ervin
Artesia NM
RV-6 FUS
(Still in the box until I'm moved in)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
Yohannes,
First, is the exterior one color or is there stripes or color break?
If it's the latter then it's an easy fix.
The first thing is to leave the finish alone for a few days ( let the
new finish have time to cure completely) before you sand the repair
area. I'd recommend a couple of weeks if you can stand it. It just
makes things sand easier.
Next, mask off the repair area with 3M's "Fine Line" tape at the break.
This is a plastic tape and we use it for all our color break masking.
It leaves a sharp break line and doesn't look fuzzy like normal masking
tape. We use 1/2" "Fine Line" over masked with 3/4" masking tape
leaving a 1/4" set back.
If the repair is really bad we generally DA it with 320 before we wet
sand. Then wet sand with 400 to 600 grit. What your after is a smooth
sanded surface ( no "shiny" spots) when it's dry. Generally with Imron,
400 works fine. Just try not to cut through the color coat into the
primer/sealer.
It's hard to explain 30 some years of painting technique and product
knowledge on the list but, here's a quick shot at it.
Work the bad area out to where your going to make your break. Where the
color and finish is good you don't have to sand down as much ( just no
shines). If you have to blend, that's a whole other procedure and
prep. I won't get into it now hoping you don't have to.
Du pont makes several reducer/activators depending on temperature. They
also make retarders that slow the reaction time of the paint if your
shooting in a real hot and or humid condition.
Think of your repair area as a target, with each coat extending out past
the last or going from medium coat in the center out to a mist coat at
your break. Imron flows out when mixed properly so how it goes on is
not necessarily how it cures. We generally mist a light cover coat
first to soften the area and act as a binder for the following coats and
see if there is any reaction with the old finish. We follow it with
another light coat to make up the first medium coat before the first
completely flashes. Then finish as per recommendations. Apply enough
material so that you have a smooth shiny coat ( no dry spots-not enough
or tiger stripes-too much). Watch the material as you spray it on. Is
it acting like dust on the previous pass or is it being absorbed and the
pass staying shiny.
Just remember to clean, clean, clean the prepped area before you shoot.
Imron, like most urethanes do not like contaminates ( water, silicone,
oil, etc.) and it will show it.
Hope this helps...
Jim Duckett
Performance Engineering
Starting the new 7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
I've got the spring benders, but can't seem to get the length and kinks
right. I've gone through a lot of tubing and still have two long runs left
to go. One problem is that I don't have any plans to tell me what the
finished product is supposed to look like or where it is supposed to be
clamped. The absolute worst part is the short stub that runs from the
fuselage to the tank itself. This doesn't line up no matter what. A flex
hose would be a snap to connect and disconnect in that limited space.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
RV-6A
-----Original Message-----
Wow, I think this is overkill a little. Here's what I see as drawbacks, in
no
particular order:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Ervin <n57wc(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Slowing Down |
After a brief search I found the spoilers
(Speedbrakes) They are made by precise flight in
Oregon and called "SPEEDBRAKES", DOH!!
See them at http://www.preciseflight.com/sb.html
====
Bill Ervin
Artesia NM
RV-6 FUS
(Still in the box until I'm completely moved in
and have a place to work)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slowing Down |
Bill,
I can't answer your question, but I can say that I really don't find such a
thing necessary. Yes, you need to plan on slowing down further ahead, but it
can be done without any problem. I don't think I've noticed my CHTs going
below 300 degrees yet (at least on the hottest cylinder that I typically
monitor) in a descent with 15" MAP.
Personal opinion,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, N558RL, 50.5 hours
www.rv-8.com
> This is just a question and not meant to elicit crude
> or insulting remarks.
>
> Has anyone tried those electric spoilers that pop up
> out of the wings, I've seen them used on plastic
> airplanes!!
>
> I can't remember what the brand name is, but I had a
> friend that had some on his lancair and he could slow
> down to Vfe in a heartbeat or lose altitude and still
> keep power up to avoid cooling shock.
>
> Just a thought!
> Bill Ervin
> Artesia NM
> RV-6 FUS
> (Still in the box until I'm moved in)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mitchf(at)netscape.com (Mitchell Faatz) |
My order for Sealube is on backorder for another month, can someone sell
me a film canister full in the short term?
Mitch Faatz RV-6A Finish Kit
San Mateo, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <DonH(at)axonn.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Slowing Down |
You can buy a big piece of a constant-speed prop for that price!!!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill Ervin [mailto:n57wc(at)yahoo.com]
> Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 3:32 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RE: Slowing Down
>
>
>
> After a brief search I found the spoilers
> (Speedbrakes) They are made by precise flight in
> Oregon and called "SPEEDBRAKES", DOH!!
>
> See them at http://www.preciseflight.com/sb.html
>
>
> ====
> Bill Ervin
> Artesia NM
> RV-6 FUS
> (Still in the box until I'm completely moved in
> and have a place to work)
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Slowing Down |
My turn to show some ignorance - and maybe learn...
Will a constant speed prop slow you down as well as a set of spoilers?
Next, how?
Ralph Capen
My MT three blade "spoiler" arrived last week and I don't know how to use it
yet!
SNIP...
> You can buy a big piece of a constant-speed prop for that price!!!
SNIP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot Medical |
IF YOU THINK THIS IS STUPID, HOW ABOUT THE SENATOR OR REPRESENTATIVE WHO
WANTED SEAT BELTS ON MOTORCYCLES AND A FLIGHT PLAN TO BE FILED FOR EVERY
TAKE OFF AND LANDING.
joe wiza wrote:
>
> WEll said Bruce
> Any Government by nature will never give up it's
> right to dictate to the people. Obliviously private
> pilots need to be watched very closely lest they go
> flying without a medical and hurt them self. And more
> important what would happen to all the government
> bureaucrats associated with the processing of third
> class medicals do. I pedal my bike out to the airport
> and at times I feel the government should create a 4th
> class license for biker's (God forbid if I should lose
> my equilibrium and crash into a 18 wheeler.)
>
> RV6A CP Spining and grining
> Retired ATC (Center)
> NRA LIFE MEMBER
>
> --- Tom Gummo wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bruce Knoll" <tripodcat(at)msn.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2001 8:04 PM
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Sport Pilot Medical
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I am sure that the several pilots that have
> > replied to this subject are p> > > robably blessed with the knowledge to know
when to
> > quit and the honesty t> > > o do so at that time. I was an AME for about 18
> > years +/- and I can tell
> > > you that there are those that are not so blessed
> > or honest. The human an> > > imal is a funny thing when it comes to self
> > discipline and not all are ab> > > le to deny themselves. Hence the medical,
or some
> > type of neutral third p> > > arty evaluation is necessary.
> >
> > Bruce,
> > While what you say is true, what is the harm. If I
> > am "safe" to drive a car
> > why not a plane.
> > The odds of me having a heart attack while driving
> > and plowing into the
> > forty kids waiting for the school bus is much higher
> > than me crashing my
> > plane into the school. There is NO RIGHT ANSWER but
> > several ways to view
> > the problem.
> > Tom
> >
> >
> >
> > through
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> > Matronics!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I am trying to rivet the top skin on. Been putting it off for a year.
Anyone invent something to support your sholders & head while in there?
I could only last for about 30 minutes yesterday.
Don Jordan - 6A - N6DJ - dons6a(at)juno.com - Arlington, TX
***********************************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Got Sealube?
Thread-Index: AcD9vGrbyxQvIZyqQtyMcK04QHL53QAAA/ig
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Hi Mitch,
My experience with Sealube is that it doesn't work. Just about every
NPT pipe fitting on my airplane leaked if it was dry or with sealube on
the threads. Several times on my leaking oil senders I cleaned the
threads and reapplied the sealube and they still leaked. An A&P told me
get some TiteSeal (medium weight), which is sold by Chief Aircraft. I
redid all my threaded fittings with TiteSeal and it worked like magic.
No more leaks. If you want I'd gladly send you my can of sealube for
free, but I'd be doing you wrong...
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 162 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: Mitchell Faatz [mailto:mitchf(at)netscape.com]
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 3:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: Got Sealube?
My order for Sealube is on backorder for another month, can someone sell
me a film canister full in the short term?
Mitch Faatz RV-6A Finish Kit
San Mateo, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
Steve -
I hate to not answer your question, but I agree with some of the others
about use of hose versus tubing. I ended up making a couple of the more
complex tubing runs 4 or 5 times before getting them just right. One way to
help with the cost of wasted soft aluminum tubing is to get a roll of the
stuff from an air conditioning or other industrial supply. I got 60 or so
feet of 3/8" dia for ~$25. you can mess up a lot and not cost yourself too
much.
I honestly can't speak about use of the spring benders, but the conventional
two-handle benders I used work great. Conventional benders might help.
just make sure the tubing is comparable to that which Van supplies - right
wall thickness, diameter and soft (annealed) aluminum. hope this helps.
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ
CFI, RV Transition Training
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: looking for Delrin... |
McMaster Carr Supply seels 12x12 cuts of UHMW, Delrin, Teflon, PETG, PVC, or
anything else you may need.
Their Phone # is 630-833-0300
-Glenn Gordon
----- Original Message -----
From: "J. Davis" <jd(at)lri.sjhc.london.on.ca>
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 10:12 AM
Subject: RV-List: looking for Delrin...
>
> Just wondered if there were any homebuilders subscribed to this list who
> might have surplus Delrin they would like to sell. A square foot of 3/4"
> would be more than enough. I will happily pick up postage charges on top
of
> the cost of the piece. (phenolic or UHMW would also do) Thanks.
>
> Regards, J.
>
> flying: Zenair STOL CH701/582 C-IGGY , >100 hrs.
> building: Sonex #325, engine undecided, probably Jab 2200
>
> | J. Davis, M.Sc. (comp_sci) | email: jd(at)uwo.ca |
> | SysMgr, research programmer | voice: (519) 646 6100 x64166 |
> | Lawson Research Institute | fax: (519) 646 6135 |
> | London, Ontario | lriweb.sjhc.london.on.ca/~jd |
>
>
> Failure to plan ahead on someone else's part does not constitute an
> emergency on my part.
> - David W. Barts
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: bending tubing |
Steve, I used a method very similar to what you are describing. While I
had access to a nice set of tubing benders, and the lines connected to
the fuel valve were pretty easy to fabricate, the space between the fuse
and wing looked like a very confining space to work in while getting
aluminum lines to fit properly.
I ran the aluminum out into the wing root area, then used braided flex
hose from the aluminum to the tank. Here is a photo showing the
installation:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/airport2.html
Scroll down to the second photo and you can see that I also used rubber
automotive fuel line for hooking up the vent lines. Since there is no
pressure on these lines, a set of good quality hose clamps is adequate
for making the connections. Just make sure you make the flex hoses long
enough to avoid kinking then. I put some heat shrink sleeve on the
exposed end of the braid so it wouldn't bring blood during the course of
an annual inspection.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 280 hrs)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
===============
"Stephen J. Soule" wrote:
>
>
> I've got the spring benders, but can't seem to get the length and kinks
> right. I've gone through a lot of tubing and still have two long runs left
> to go. One problem is that I don't have any plans to tell me what the
> finished product is supposed to look like or where it is supposed to be
> clamped. The absolute worst part is the short stub that runs from the
> fuselage to the tank itself. This doesn't line up no matter what. A flex
> hose would be a snap to connect and disconnect in that limited space.
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, VT
> RV-6A
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Wow, I think this is overkill a little. Here's what I see as drawbacks, in
> no
> particular order:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jayeandscott" <jayeandscott(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slowing Down |
All the aerobatic aircraft use Lycomings and routinely go from full power,
low airspeed to idle power, high airspeed several times each sequence is
flown. I realize it's relatively short term but cracked cylinders caused by
shock cooking are very rare. But big-bore Continentals have to be treated
very carefully to avoid cracking. IMHO.
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy Lervold <randy@rv-8.com>
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Slowing Down
>
> Bill,
>
> I can't answer your question, but I can say that I really don't find such
a
> thing necessary. Yes, you need to plan on slowing down further ahead, but
it
> can be done without any problem. I don't think I've noticed my CHTs going
> below 300 degrees yet (at least on the hottest cylinder that I typically
> monitor) in a descent with 15" MAP.
>
> Personal opinion,
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, N558RL, 50.5 hours
> www.rv-8.com
>
>
> > This is just a question and not meant to elicit crude
> > or insulting remarks.
> >
> > Has anyone tried those electric spoilers that pop up
> > out of the wings, I've seen them used on plastic
> > airplanes!!
> >
> > I can't remember what the brand name is, but I had a
> > friend that had some on his lancair and he could slow
> > down to Vfe in a heartbeat or lose altitude and still
> > keep power up to avoid cooling shock.
> >
> > Just a thought!
> > Bill Ervin
> > Artesia NM
> > RV-6 FUS
> > (Still in the box until I'm moved in)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PlaneWizz(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Slowing Down |
Bill<
I just opened Sport Aviation and on p.99, Barry Palmer's RV8 is pictured with
speed brakes which he said he designed and installed.
Dave Pohl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Complete RV-6 wings for sale |
I saw this ad in COPA (Canada's version of AOPA)
RV-6 Wings, 100% complete and inspected, inverted options installed,
ailerons rigged and fuel tanks pressure checked OK. Excellent workmanship.
$8,000 (approx US$5200 - unless this guy priced it in US$'s but I doubt it).
E-mail me offline for phone number if you're interested. The phone number is
from South Western Ontario.
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Got Sealube? |
Bakerseal works very well, and lubes the threads for
ease of installation. I've got that and fuel lube,
and prefer the bakerseal. It's made by Gunk, and sold
through spruce and the like, but I bet a high quality
auto parts store would have it.
====
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Getting Close
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 4.3 hour report (long) please read and comment |
Mike,
Interesting. You know, my D.A.R made a point of telling me that I could only
do with the airplane what was done in Phase I (e.g., each aerobatic maneuver
wood need to be done in order to do it later), and he specifically mentioned
that if I wanted to fly at night, that the plane would have to be flown at
night during Phase I. Perhaps I misunderstood the sequence. If that is the
case, then when should one fly at night?
Thanks,
Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 11:01 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 4.3 hour report (long) please read and comment
>
> Jerry,
>
> Two quick notes here. Please be careful about flying after legal sunset.
I
> believe that if you check you Operating Limitations for Phase I test
flights
> it will state DAY/VFR only. Please be careful and don't get caught.
>
> For the transponder, I had something of the same type problem. I found
that
> the data wires from the microEncoder to the transponder were incorrectly
> pinned. So you may want to check the wiring harness and double check the
> pins. It sounds like the transponder is getting information but in the
> wrong sequence.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott.Fink(at)microchip.com |
| Subject: | Re: Slowing Down |
06/25/2001 04:11:08 PM,
Serialize complete at 06/25/2001 04:11:09 PM,
Serialize by Router on USMail1/US/Microchip(Release 5.0.5 |September 22,
2000) at
06/25/2001 04:11:09 PM
Just one datapoint, but all of the hard-core aerobatic guys I have talked
to rarely get more than 600 hrs out of an engine. I'm not necessarily
saying it is due to shock cooling, but more likely from slaming the
pistons into the side of the cylinders.
Scott
"jayeandscott"
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
06/25/2001 03:12 PM
Please respond to rv-list
To:
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Slowing Down
All the aerobatic aircraft use Lycomings and routinely go from full power,
low airspeed to idle power, high airspeed several times each sequence is
flown. I realize it's relatively short term but cracked cylinders caused
by
shock cooking are very rare. But big-bore Continentals have to be treated
very carefully to avoid cracking. IMHO.
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy Lervold <randy@rv-8.com>
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Slowing Down
>
> Bill,
>
> I can't answer your question, but I can say that I really don't find
such
a
> thing necessary. Yes, you need to plan on slowing down further ahead,
but
it
> can be done without any problem. I don't think I've noticed my CHTs
going
> below 300 degrees yet (at least on the hottest cylinder that I typically
> monitor) in a descent with 15" MAP.
>
> Personal opinion,
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, N558RL, 50.5 hours
> www.rv-8.com
>
>
> > This is just a question and not meant to elicit crude
> > or insulting remarks.
> >
> > Has anyone tried those electric spoilers that pop up
> > out of the wings, I've seen them used on plastic
> > airplanes!!
> >
> > I can't remember what the brand name is, but I had a
> > friend that had some on his lancair and he could slow
> > down to Vfe in a heartbeat or lose altitude and still
> > keep power up to avoid cooling shock.
> >
> > Just a thought!
> > Bill Ervin
> > Artesia NM
> > RV-6 FUS
> > (Still in the box until I'm moved in)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: back support |
A wife
Mine did the rear and top front fuselage cant
tell you how she came about doing this
RV6A
--- Don R Jordan wrote:
>
>
> I am trying to rivet the top skin on. Been putting
> it off for a year.
>
> Anyone invent something to support your sholders &
> head while in there?
> I could only last for about 30 minutes yesterday.
>
> Don Jordan - 6A - N6DJ - dons6a(at)juno.com -
> Arlington, TX
>
***********************************************************************
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | IPAQ 'abuse' feedback needed |
Listers,
Does anyone have experience with a Compaq Ipaq's
survivability when dropped? Mine didn't. I had just received
it (it was a gift; I'm a really great guy :->) & it did not
survive a fall from waist height to a hard surface floor.
If my experience is a fluke & others have had them survive
this kind of 'test' then I will consider keeping it. The
AnywhereMap software is really nice.
If they aren't rugged enough to survive short falls like
this, I'll have to return it & go for a conventional a/c
GPS.
Thanks for your input.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bmaynard507(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | RV-6 Crash in Hammond, LA |
Just saw and heard on the nightly news about a yellow RV-6 that crashed after
takeoff. According to the news commentary, the pilot made an emergency
landing earlier in the day. He apparently fixed his problem and went up
again. The airplane crashed in the woods approx. 300 yards from the field.
No survivors.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 4.3 hour report (long) please read and comment |
Ok, I'm going to go on the limb a bit here because I don't know exactly
what your DAR told you.
According to Order 8130.2D (for certification) ALL test flights are to be
conducted day VFR. Any aerobatic manuvers you wish to conduct must be
conducted during the test flight period. Fortunately you can now place the
aircraft back in the test flight phase yourself by a simple logbook entry so
if you miss some manuver you can simply go up one time by yourself, conduct
the manuver, and sign it off.
You should not do any night flights until after the test flight period. To
check the lights, strobes , and instrument lights does not require a test
flight. I think somehow the information somewhere between you and the DAR
got mixed up.
While I love evening flights, and can understand wanting to do them, I would
recommend staying away from them until the Phase I test flight period is
signed off.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: 4.3 hour report (long) please read and comment
>Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 18:09:48 -0700
>
>
>Mike,
>
>Interesting. You know, my D.A.R made a point of telling me that I could
>only
>do with the airplane what was done in Phase I (e.g., each aerobatic
>maneuver
>wood need to be done in order to do it later), and he specifically
>mentioned
>that if I wanted to fly at night, that the plane would have to be flown at
>night during Phase I. Perhaps I misunderstood the sequence. If that is the
>case, then when should one fly at night?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jerry
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
>To:
>Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 11:01 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: 4.3 hour report (long) please read and comment
>
>
> >
> > Jerry,
> >
> > Two quick notes here. Please be careful about flying after legal
>sunset.
>I
> > believe that if you check you Operating Limitations for Phase I test
>flights
> > it will state DAY/VFR only. Please be careful and don't get caught.
> >
> > For the transponder, I had something of the same type problem. I found
>that
> > the data wires from the microEncoder to the transponder were incorrectly
> > pinned. So you may want to check the wiring harness and double check
>the
> > pins. It sounds like the transponder is getting information but in the
> > wrong sequence.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> > RV-8A
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: sport pilot?? |
Yes, the FAA signed off on the Sport Pilot and sent it up to Dept of
Transportation which has 60 days to act/kill/comment....also some other
government folks have input...maybe this fall if all goes well from what I
read.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IPAQ 'abuse' feedback needed |
Charlie:
I sell a similar pocket pc unit, yet rugged product
made by Symbol (they are the ones who make the bar
code scanners you see in many stores) and quite often
I am going against the Ipaq. (Our company sells the
Ipaq too).
I have heard the problems with these not being too
rugged. We use this as a sales tool, that it is known
that if you drop an Ipaq, it will break. I have heard
of many of customers complaining that after a short
drop that the unit broke (the screen element is what
goes bad usually) So, I don't think your experience
is unique, based on my experience. I would use a
Symbol unit, but the problem is, they are monochrome
screen, which won't really compete in the GPS world
nowadays.
====
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Getting Close
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
Attn: Mike Robertson:
Mike, did 8130-2D supersede 8130-1D? If so, what does that do to the
thousands of us that had our operation limitations specifically stated as
8130-1D IF that order no longer "legally" exists? Are we automatically
under the 8130-2D if 1D was replaced, or do we continue under a superseded
order that no long is in effect? All very confusing.
John Rv6A Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Crash in Hammond, LA |
> Top Stories
1 dies in plane crashJune 25, 2001
A plane crashed north of the Hammond Municipal Airport shortly before 11 a.m.
today, fire department officials confirmed.
Reportedly, one victim walked away from the crash and one person died.
The crash was apparently north of Vineyard Road in the Natalbany Fire
Department District.
Firefighters from Natalbany, Hammond and Independence responded to the smoke
seen billowing from the wooded area.
Other details were not immediately available.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: back support |
When I back drilled those skins, I threw a bunch of cushions and pillows and
stuff back there because I didn't want to dent the bottom skins with elbows
and knees. I think I might have started with some pieces of 1" styrofoam
which was used in the shipping of the kit.
Ed Holyoke
6QB
----- Original Message -----
From: "joe wiza" <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 4:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: back support
>
> A wife
> Mine did the rear and top front fuselage cant
> tell you how she came about doing this
>
> RV6A
>
> --- Don R Jordan wrote:
> >
> >
> > I am trying to rivet the top skin on. Been putting
> > it off for a year.
> >
> > Anyone invent something to support your sholders &
> > head while in there?
> > I could only last for about 30 minutes yesterday.
> >
> > Don Jordan - 6A - N6DJ - dons6a(at)juno.com -
> > Arlington, TX
> >
> ***********************************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Slowing Down |
I am not a RV pilot (yet) and I don't play one on TV. :-)
However, here is a trick used by the fighter pilots flying jets. We entered
the pattern at 300 KIAS and had to slow to 250 for the gear, 230 for the
flaps and 180 as downwind speed. What we did was a 3 to 4 G 180 degree
turn. The airspeed just melted away. So, I plan on making a 90 degree plus
turn several miles from the pattern to reduce the speed of my plane. A 90
degree to the left followed by a 90 right should help slow down.
Boyd,
You do hard manuvering on most of your flights. How does the speed
decay under G's???
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Root Fairings |
Paul Besing wrote:
> Ok, is it just me, or are the wing root fairings that
> Van's provides don't even closely resemble the
> curvature of the fuselage?
Mine didn't resemble much of anything till I took the snips to them. I
scratched away a good few hairs on that.
> What is the best way to install these
"Make them fit". I made the mistake of setting the distance from the fuse
equal to the amount of rubber. As a result, the rubber just touches but it
ought to push lightly against the fuse. In other words, my fairing strips
are too far from the fuse.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK (Valentine) FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Slowing Down |
My recipe for slowing down:
1) Establish yourself at pattern altitude a couple of miles outside the
pattern. (With a fixed pitch prop, it is tough to descend and slow down at
the same time, so eliminate one variable). This also avoids the (arguably)
dangerous practice of descending into the pattern.
2) Pull the power back and decelerate as you approach the pattern.
3) Use your turn to the downwind (45 degrees?) to bleed off a few more MPH.
By this time, the power is usually at idle.
4) If necessary, lift the nose slightly, and climb a hundred feet or so.
5) Voila... 100 mph. Drop the flaps, fly the pattern, put it on the ground.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Slowing Down |
In a message dated 6/25/01 6:21:11 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
t.gummo(at)verizon.net writes:
> So, I plan on making a 90 degree plus
> turn several miles from the pattern to reduce the speed of my plane. A 90
> degree to the left followed by a 90 right should help slow down.
>
>
OR.... you could just pull the throttle! :) Works every time!
Walt RV-6A 420 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Root Fairings |
I simply taped the fairings in place a few inches outboard of their final
position, then transferred the shape of the fuselage to the fairing. I taped
a pencil to one end of a spacer, and used the other end of the spacer to
follow the fuselage contour. The pencil (or was it a Sharpie?) made a useful
reference line on the fairing.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 4.3 hour report (long) please read and comment |
> Did you notice any shaking of the HS? From talking to other RV-8 builders
it
> seems that about 50% of the planes demonstrate this and 50% don't. I have
> spoken with Ken Krueger at Van's on this and will take him up in mine for
> further study. I volunteered to let Van the Man take it up but I don't
think
> he'd fit in it with my fixed rudder pedals all the way aft.
I stalled it several times today and can't say that I noticed any shaking of
the HS, although I'll admit that I was not looking back at it! I certainly
did not feel any thing unusual.
June 21, 2001 - June 25, 2001
RV-Archive.digest.vol-kz