RV-Archive.digest.vol-lc
July 05, 2001 - July 12, 2001
>
> Extremley bad luck that the aircraft was destroyed in fire when the root
cause was a stuck control surface and noticed while still on ground. In
retrospect, he was lucky that it didn't jam while airborne.
> I am curious as to why it stuck. I have no reason to think the cause was a
jammed stick but I will definitely install a cover around the rear stick
area (as many do). Something as big as a movie camera can otherwise easily
fit in that area, jamming the stick.
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
>
> >
> > From: ENewton57(at)aol.com
> > Date: 2001/07/05 Thu PM 02:23:12 EDT
> > To:
> > Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Accident FYI
> >
> >
> > **** 7/5/01 Preliminary Accident/Incident Data Record 19 ****
> > A. Type: A Mid Air: N Missing: N Entry date: 7/5/01
> > From: SOUTHWEST REGION OPERATIONS CENTER
> >
> > B. Reg. No.: 50FG M/M: EXP Desc: EXP-1999 RV-8
> > Activity: Pleasure Phase: Take-off GA-A/C: General Aviation
> > Descr: EXPERIMENTAL ACFT WAS ON TAKE-OFF ROLL WHEN THE ELEVATOR JAMMED
> > FORWARD, THE PILOT ABORTED TAKE-OFF AND APPLIED THE BRAKES, THE
> > ACFT WAS UNABLE TO STOP AND TURNED LEFT ON RY17, THE RIGHT WING
> > STRUCK THE RWY DURING THE TURN AND CAUGHT FIRE, THE PILOT STOPPED
> > THE ACFT ON THE RWY AND GOT OUT BEFORE THE ACFT WAS DESTROYED BY
> > FIRE, MINERAL WELLS, TX.
> >
> > WX: METAR MWL 041553Z AUTO 26010G15KT 10SM CLR 32/17 A3016
> > Damage: Destroyed
> > C2. Injury Data: # Crew: 1 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
> > # Pass: 1 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
> > # Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
> > D. Location. City: MINERAL WELLS State: TX Country: US
> > E. Event Date: 7/4/01 Time: 1615
> > F. Invest Coverage. IIC: Reg/DO: SW19 DO City: FORT WORTH
> > DO State: TX Others: NTSB
> > G. Flt Handling. Dep Pt: MINERAL WELLS, TX Dep Date: 7/4/01 Time: 1615
> > Dest: UNKN Last Radio Cont: NONE Flt Plan: NONE
> > Last Clearance: NONE WX Briefing: N
> > Other:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil hose lengths |
A tip that I am publishing in the August Experimenter that I picked up on
the RV list is to use plastic coated Wire clothes Line to make a template.
Use it to determine the length and placement, then use it for the real
thing. Although it was originally suggested for Aluminum tubing line, I
can't see why it can't be used for flexible oil and fuel lines.
Two things to remember. Don't install with a twist. better to be just a tad
long than a tad short.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2001 1:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: Oil hose lengths
Anyone have any good suggestions on how to determine flexible oil/fuel hose
lengths? A friend has the mandrels to build the hoses but has to return
them soon. I need to build my hoses now. I haven't done the baffling yet
either. Anyone have standard hose lengths for an RV-4? Is there such a
thing? I mean for oil hoses going to oil cooler when it is mounted behind
the rear cylinder, etc. Thanks for any (helpful) suggestions you can give
me!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | New Builder's Log |
Listers, I am currently working with a software
developer who is just about finished with a builder's
log similar to what was posted, however is much more
robust. There will be several added features that
will serve to be a great organizational tool, that can
be used as a one solution product for your inspection
and presentation purposes. It will inlcude all FAA
docs, weight and balance, and much more. Stay tuned
for further developments!
====
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Getting Close
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil hose lengths |
Scott, I just went through this, I made "templates" from plastic tubing, and
had 5 of the hoses fabbed in three different sizes, -4, -6 and -8 . they all
came out too short. I wound up having the engine wizard custom fit each one
on the plane. I suppose the moral is, if you have to guess, make them a
couple inches longer than you guessed.
Kevin -9a
Apex, WA
> Anyone have any good suggestions on how to determine flexible oil/fuel hose
> lengths? A friend has the mandrels to build the hoses but has to return
> them soon. I need to build my hoses now. I haven't done the baffling yet
> either. Anyone have standard hose lengths for an RV-4? Is there such a
> thing? I mean for oil hoses going to oil cooler when it is mounted behind
> the rear cylinder, etc. Thanks for any (helpful) suggestions you can give
> me!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Covering the holes for the RV-6A flap pushrod |
In a message dated 7/5/01 2:24:19 AM Pacific Daylight Time, SSoule(at)pfclaw.com
writes:
<< Has anyone made boots to cover the holes for the flap pushrod in the bottom
of the fuselage? I cut one yesterday and it looks pretty big. Although it is
covered when the flap is up, I still expect a lot of air to come whooshing
up through there.
I am interested in learning how to make a boot of some kind to allow the rod
to make full movement. The boot will have to be attached to the floor and
the side of the fuselage. >>
I have a full size CAD drawn version of this boot that works well. It was
made out of rain poncho material (OD green lite urethane sealed nylon) RTV'd
to an aluminum ring for attachment to the fuselage. You tape wrap and screw
clamp it to the push rod. No air at all comes thru and it has no affect at
all on the control feel down to subzero temperatures.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
... I have to confess that some of you folks are WAY ahead of me in terms of
the importance you all place on the accuracy of computations, TAS, etc. It
makes my head spin!!
In one way, I'm in the same camp as Sam Buchanan and Paul Besing- "close
enough" will be good enough for me. Also, GPS is a great reference for speed,
and I'm sure even an inaccurate gauge will be good enough to calculate DA..
One item that nobody but Tim Bronson and Norman Hunger mentioned that IS
important to me is OAT when flying in clouds. I really do want a
close-to-accurate warning when the temp is getting close to freezing. That's
the true utility of a fairly accurate OAT probe to me. I don't want an
inadvertent encounter of the icy kind!
There- now I can go back to worrying about how to slow down...
Ed ("where the hell are the brakes on this thing?") Winne
RV-9A wings
Palmyra PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Accident FYI |
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Accident FYI
I agree, glad no was one hurt. It seems like a lot of experimentals have
problems, but I'm sure it is just because we focus on them. One thing I
made sure of is when I (enclosed) glassed the tips on the elevators and HS
it is very secure so as not to dislodge and bind with one another.
Jack
RV8, tanks
DSM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slowing Down |
Roy,
What a small world. That was me in the Mustang last night after I flew over
the Edina MN Fireworks opening ceremonies. The other airplane was a T-6 we
were using a for a photo ship.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com\dougr
----- Original Message -----
From: Roy Vosberg <Roy.Vosberg(at)veritas.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2001 11:05 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Slowing Down
>
> I understand the "overhead approach" thing now that I have actually seen
it
> done. Yesterday, the 4th of July, I was sitting on my deck watching some
> warbirds land at Fleming Field. They were doing overhead approaches and
it
> was NOT the hotshot, violent maneuver that some discussions on this list
had
> lead me to believe it was.
Snip.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Kitz" <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
| Subject: | Computing Weight and Balance |
No one has mentioned it yet to my knowledge, but put tape on the floor and
use a plumb bob to mark the leading edge of the wing. Also mark tape for
the centerline of each wheel and mearure to the wheel marks. You need that
info for the moment arms.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net> |
RV-8 builders & flyers,
So many people have asked me to build them a canopy latch like the one in
"Tiger-Kat" that I finally relented and produced a batch.You can see what
they look like at Sam Buchanan's web site
http://home.HiWAAY.net./~sbuc/journal/rv8-latch.html
Price is $25 + $2 S&H
If it looks good to you, send a check to : 119 Ridgeview Dr.
Eustis, FL 32726
Thanks, Bill Davis N48WD
Thanks to Sam for posting the pictures.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Horizontal Stab. Question |
Working on my tail section. The plans call out for the HS 606 rib (Outboard rib)
to be trimmed to fit the fiberglass tip. I am not sue when to trim. I am ready
to rivet ribs in place. Do I trim it now, or when all together and ready to
install the tip? It seems it would be best to trim before installed, but how
much? Thanks to all. Al Grajek
----- Original Message -----
From: Are Barstad
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2001 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Accident FYI
Unless of course he had wing tanks...
Are
RV- 8 Wings
>
> From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
> Date: 2001/07/05 Thu PM 03:12:03 EDT
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Accident FYI
>
>
> > Descr: EXPERIMENTAL ACFT WAS ON TAKE-OFF ROLL WHEN THE ELEVATOR
> > JAMMED FORWARD, THE PILOT ABORTED TAKE-OFF AND APPLIED THE BRAKES,
> > THE ACFT WAS UNABLE TO STOP AND TURNED LEFT ON RY17, THE RIGHT
> > WING STRUCK THE RWY DURING THE TURN AND CAUGHT FIRE, THE PILOT
> > STOPPED THE ACFT ON THE RWY AND GOT OUT BEFORE THE ACFT WAS DESTROYED
> > BY FIRE, MINERAL WELLS, TX.
>
> Lucky guy that he didn't get it off the deck...
>
> Have to wonder how much damage the wing took - had to have breached the
> fuel tank and then perhaps sparks ignited. Never heard of a ground
> loop doing that much damage...
>
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Firewall Forward
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Horizontal Stab. Question |
Hi Al-
Trim now. Just trim back to minimum edge distance on the rivet holes- on a
3/32 rivet, the center of the hole needs to be at least 6/32 from the edge
of the sheet. So now that the holes are drilled, you can trim back to that
line (or give a little extra room for error if you're like me and trim at
1/4"). At leas that's what I did. Others have said you don't need to trim
at all...
Matthew
-8A fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Al Grajek
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2001 7:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Horizontal Stab. Question
Working on my tail section. The plans call out for the HS 606 rib (Outboard rib)
to be trimmed to fit the fiberglass tip. I am not sue when to trim. I am ready
to rivet ribs in place. Do I trim it now, or when all together and ready to
install the tip? It seems it would be best to trim before installed, but how
much? Thanks to all. Al Grajek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Horizontal Stab. Question |
Hi Al-
Trim now. Just trim back to minimum edge distance on the rivet holes- on a
3/32 rivet, the center of the hole needs to be at least 6/32 from the edge
of the sheet. So now that the holes are drilled, you can trim back to that
line (or give a little extra room for error if you're like me and trim at
1/4"). At leas that's what I did. Others have said you don't need to trim
at all...
Matthew
-8A fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Al Grajek
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2001 7:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Horizontal Stab. Question
Working on my tail section. The plans call out for the HS 606 rib (Outboard rib)
to be trimmed to fit the fiberglass tip. I am not sue when to trim. I am ready
to rivet ribs in place. Do I trim it now, or when all together and ready to
install the tip? It seems it would be best to trim before installed, but how
much? Thanks to all. Al Grajek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Can-Amer in Blaine, Washington? |
> I'm about to pick up my RV-7A fuselage and wings from Can-Amer
> in Blaine, Washington on the way from the Arlington airshow to Vancouver
> Island, BC.
>
> Anybody know a phone/contact number I can get hold of Can-Amer at?
>
> I believe their address is 1160 Yew St.
360-332-6525
Canadians on the west coast take note:
Steve has discovered the best way to get aircraft parts into the Vancouver
BC area. Can-Amer costs next to nothing. Using them avoids all customs
brokerage fees. When you drive your own parts over the border and declare
them, you are the customs broker. Shipping companies charge brokerage fees
for doing the paperwork on top of the taxes. There is no duty on aircraft
parts, just 7% provincial sales tax and 7% goods and services tax. The
biggest savings is that your shipment from Van is now a domestic. It never
leaves the States. Almost all shipping companies have a much higher rate for
International shipments. In most cases the difference is worth renting a
pick-up truck (or cube van). Eastern Canadians who live close to the border
might want to investigate this too. Search an American border town for
Freight Forwarders.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Hedley BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Accident FYI |
A few years back, there was a report of an Australian pilot in an RV
(forget which) that was involved in a fatal accident. The accident
investigation indicated (as best I recall) that the rear bottom of the
fiberglass empenage fairing apparently flair out sufficiently far from the
side of the fuselage to hang up over the elevator. That when the elevator
when down past the fiberglass fairing, the end of the fairing pop out on top
of the elevator (now in the down position) and the pilot was unable to
recovered elevator control. I have two screws holding in that portion of my
fairing on each side. FWIW. Of course, have no idea whether the RV-8
incident encountered anything similar. What a bummer. But, at least he can
build an another. Hope he had insurance.
Ed Anderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 - IO-360 Intake/Air-filter? |
Isn't there a difference between the 180 and the 200 hp io360 ????
Mike Robertson wrote:
>
>
> Jim,
>
> Are you saying that the "toilet bowl" intake tube from Van's won't fit? All
> the -8's I've seen so far using IO-360 engines have the "tolet bowl" intake
> tube from Van's that mounts a K&S airfilter to the intake baffle in front of
> the #2 cylinder. Mind you, with this intake tube you have to use the
> Sky-Tec (or similar) light weight starter.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A
>
> >From: "CiminoJim" <CiminoJim(at)email.msn.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: "RV-LIST"
> >Subject: RV-List: RV-8 - IO-360 Intake/Air-filter?
> >Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 18:14:19 -0400
> >
> >
> >What have the people with IO-360 RV-8's using for air filters or intake
> >air. My IO-360 is 180 HP and Van's air filter kit will not fit.
> >
> >
> >Jim Cimino
> >RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
> >http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
> >(570)842-4057
> >
> >
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich <houndsfour(at)mediaone.net> |
I have been trying to find information on the Navaid in the archive but
I'm
doing something wrong. My question is about the "stick shake".
As soon as I the unit on, it starts the stick shake. I can stop it by
just
holding the stick in neutral. If I try to trim a left or right turn, it
starts again.
I seem to remember something about adding a resistor somewhere.
The riffraff at the airport, "my friends" said that I built in an auto
shake so
I had an excuse for any poor landings. I am planing on a first flight
sometime
this month.
Thanks
Rich
RV-6 N721ET
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Rich, don't worry about the stick jittering unless it is still present
when your plane is flying. More than likely, once the ailerons are
subject to inflight airloads, there will be enough resistance in the
system to stop the jittering.
If the jittering is still present, there are adjustments you can make to
trim it out.
You are going to like the Navaid!
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, Naviad, 280 hrs)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
==================
Rich wrote:
>
>
> I have been trying to find information on the Navaid in the archive but
> I'm
> doing something wrong. My question is about the "stick shake".
> As soon as I the unit on, it starts the stick shake. I can stop it by
> just
> holding the stick in neutral. If I try to trim a left or right turn, it
> starts again.
> I seem to remember something about adding a resistor somewhere.
>
> The riffraff at the airport, "my friends" said that I built in an auto
> shake so
> I had an excuse for any poor landings. I am planing on a first flight
> sometime
> this month.
>
> Thanks
> Rich
> RV-6 N721ET
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Computing Weight and Balance |
> No. This cannot work. "Adding the three corners" will not give you the
weight of
> the aircraft.
Yes it will. When I origionaly asked the question I had already figured out
the other two wheels would have to be at the same height as the scale. I
mentioned that I would make blocks the same thickness as the scale.
Other great pionts brought up by other Listers:
- Use a beam level to check for continuity constantly.
- Make the two pads with built in wheel chocks.
- Do indoors to avoid wind.
- Do the whole procedure twice.
Then you can get your total weight by simply adding the weights of the three
wheels.
In the end I'll probably stumble into some one who lends me three
appropriate scales...........
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
> Imagine lifting one wheel until the plane balanced on the remaining two
wheels.
> Now zero wt. will be recorded from the wheel that is raised. I guess
everybody
> would agree so far.
> Now, do something less than that: lift one wheel ...say 4 or 5 inches, or
> whatever... to place it on your scale, the CG has shifted toward some
point closer
> to the remaining two wheels and you will get a number lower than it should
be at
> the scale on the raised wheel.
> For wt. and balance /CG calculations... you DO need three scales. Fewer
scales
> will work for weight alone if you use planks, or something, to place the
entire
> weight of the plane on the scales.
> For either calculation, the airplane needs to be supported at all three
points.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 7/5/01 8:12:20 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
houndsfour(at)mediaone.net writes:
<< I have been trying to find information on the Navaid in the archive but
I'm
doing something wrong. My question is about the "stick shake".
As soon as I the unit on, it starts the stick shake. I can stop it by
just
holding the stick in neutral. If I try to trim a left or right turn, it
starts again.
I seem to remember something about adding a resistor somewhere. >>
The resistor is added in series with the servo motor. Navaid will send it to
you free with instructions. It takes about 20 minutes to install and will
solve the problem in the air (still may shake when not air loaded).
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Cherroff" <sam(at)videoassist.com> |
| Subject: | Re: magnetic hole finder |
Bob,
Radio Shack sells some small but incredibly strong samariam-cobalt
magnets. They are probably too big (.19"dia) for your holes, but
here's a suggestion: Glue it on the end of a shaft of some kind
(could be a bolt that's the size of your holes) and then chuck it up in
the drill and while it's spinning take a dremel tool to it with an
abrasive wheel. After you're done soak it in solvent or crack it off the
shaft. Or just leave it on there-- maybe it'll keep you from losing it!
I'm really curious about this needle finder device of yours! Would it
be possible to point me to a picture of it or email it to me?
(planet10(at)juno.com)
Thanks,
--Sam
P.S. Those magnets are the same ones that are used in the tiny
speakers in the "ear buds" style of walkman headphones. If you
have a junk pair you can pop the magnet out pretty easily...
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> I have a wonderful hole-finder tool that consists of a bracket with a
> pivoting needle mounted on it. I believe I bought it from Aircraft
> Spruce, and they no longer carry them. The way it works is you place
> some very small #30 or #40 sized magnets in the underlying hole and the
> needle will center over the magnet when you pass over it. Trouble is
> the magnets are small and they're easy to lose. Does anyone know of a
> source for these magnets, or anywhere else I could get some tiny but
> strong magnets from?
________________________________________________________________________________
rich,
i'm aware of 2 resistors on the Navaid. 1 goes to the push to talk switch to
eliminate noise in the comm radio. the other is used when you use 2 of thier
rocker switches.
i've heard of the shaking problem, but most say it is a problem when the
plane is sitting still. as soon as air flow goes over the control surface the
shaking goes away. if there is a resistor that illiminates this problem,
please pass on the information to me as i am finishing wiring my panel.
scott
tampa
rv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Covering the holes for the RV-6A flap pushrod |
Good morning GV,
I'd like a copy of that CAD drawing, please. How best to get it? Is it
posted on the WWW somewhere?
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com [mailto:Vanremog(at)aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2001 5:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Covering the holes for the RV-6A flap pushrod
In a message dated 7/5/01 2:24:19 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
SSoule(at)pfclaw.com
writes:
<< Has anyone made boots to cover the holes for the flap pushrod in the
bottom
of the fuselage? I cut one yesterday and it looks pretty big. Although it
is
covered when the flap is up, I still expect a lot of air to come whooshing
up through there.
I am interested in learning how to make a boot of some kind to allow the
rod
to make full movement. The boot will have to be attached to the floor and
the side of the fuselage. >>
I have a full size CAD drawn version of this boot that works well. It was
made out of rain poncho material (OD green lite urethane sealed nylon) RTV'd
to an aluminum ring for attachment to the fuselage. You tape wrap and screw
clamp it to the push rod. No air at all comes thru and it has no affect at
all on the control feel down to subzero temperatures.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: magnetic hole finder |
BOB THE MAGNETS YOU ARE LOOKNG FOR-1/8 AND 3/32 -U&G CO-TEL 305-255-2992 OR
FAX 305-251-5113-TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
Gary, can you elaborate on the instructions? I received the resistor
without any instructions at all. I assumed that it just needs to be wired
in series with either motor power wire. Is there more to it than this?
Thanks,
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> The resistor is added in series with the servo motor. Navaid will send it
to
> you free with instructions. It takes about 20 minutes to install and will
> solve the problem in the air (still may shake when not air loaded).
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Computing Weight and Balance |
Norman wrote:
>
> Other great pionts brought up by other Listers:
> - Use a beam level to check for continuity constantly.
> - Make the two pads with built in wheel chocks.
> - Do indoors to avoid wind.
> - Do the whole procedure twice.
I haven't tried this but I suspect that one "fine tuning" method of leveling the
airplane may be to let air in/out of the tires.
Finn
NetZero Platinum
No Banner Ads and Unlimited Access
Sign Up Today - Only $9.95 per month!
http://www.netzero.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Computing Weight and Balance |
> I haven't tried this but I suspect that one "fine tuning" method of
> leveling the
> airplane may be to let air in/out of the tires.
This works great - you can get a full bubble and still not have a flat
tire...
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
irewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 - IO-360 Intake/Air-filter? |
OK, After a little research I am now on the same sheet of music. The IO-360
180 horse engines are the same basic engine as the O-360 engines but with a
fuel injection system, which means the fuel injection is on the bottom.
Which also means that the "toilet bowl" intake won't fit. I checked on the
Lycoming website for dimensions and found that the IO-360 180 horse engine
is supposedly 24.84 inches tall and the O-360 engine is supposedly 24.59.
That makes the IO-360 1/4 inch taller.
So the answer to the original question is that Van's updraft air filter kit
won't fit as is but will need to have a different base plate made but the
air box and filter should work as is.
Gert, sorry about my initial confusion but the ole gray matter forgot that
the 180 horse IO-360's are up draft.
Mike Robertson
>From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 - IO-360 Intake/Air-filter?
>Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2001 21:08:50 -0500
>
>
>Isn't there a difference between the 180 and the 200 hp io360 ????
>
>Mike Robertson wrote:
> >
> >
> > Jim,
> >
> > Are you saying that the "toilet bowl" intake tube from Van's won't fit?
>All
> > the -8's I've seen so far using IO-360 engines have the "tolet bowl"
>intake
> > tube from Van's that mounts a K&S airfilter to the intake baffle in
>front of
> > the #2 cylinder. Mind you, with this intake tube you have to use the
> > Sky-Tec (or similar) light weight starter.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> > RV-8A
> >
> > >From: "CiminoJim" <CiminoJim(at)email.msn.com>
> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To: "RV-LIST"
> > >Subject: RV-List: RV-8 - IO-360 Intake/Air-filter?
> > >Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 18:14:19 -0400
> > >
> > >
> > >What have the people with IO-360 RV-8's using for air filters or intake
> > >air. My IO-360 is 180 HP and Van's air filter kit will not fit.
> > >
> > >
> > >Jim Cimino
> > >RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
> > >http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
> > >(570)842-4057
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>--
>is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com> |
Tail kit, wing kit, and fuselage kit.
Tail complete minus fiberglass, firewall, spars, and F-604 completed.
Everything primered inside. A&P IA built in Wichita Kansas. Must sale due to
buying nearly completed RV-4..
Can build to suit for you (help you that is). Asking $8300.00. Please
contact me online or offline at 316-721-5670 or 316-210-5670(cell) and ask
for Todd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 JIG FOR FREE!! |
RV-4 jig is yours for free. Pick up in Wichita Kansas.Contact me online or
offline at 316-721-5670 or 316-210-5670(cell) and ask for Todd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Weight & Balance Program |
Listers,
Fellow RV builder Greg Hale has created a great weight and balance program
that will work for any RV. It will even figure out your estimated weight and
balance at the end of a trip based on estimated fuel burn.
Thanks Greg for a valuable contribution. You can download the program and
instructions at Greg's site here:
http://www.geocities.com/ghale5224
Regards,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (Engine Baffles)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Dorm room available for OSH |
Listers,
We have an extra room at the dorms at OSH this year. If anyone can
use it, please give us a call at 940-648-0841.
Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Narco AT50 Transponder |
I have a Narco AT50 Transponder for sale on eBay...
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1614348519
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Plecenik" <nanchang(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Overhead Patterns |
To prevent further confusion I might have caused with my last post, let me
say that by "roll into the initial turn" I meant the turn to downwind, NOT
the turn onto initial. My writing skills need help. Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | RV-9A Rudder and Brake Pedals |
I'm about to drill holes for the rudder pedal bearing blocks. The
Construction Manual says to drill several hole patterns so the fore and aft
location can be changed as necessary but don't give a starting point. Since
you can't sit in the fuse at this point (and it's upside down as well) I'm
wondering what others have done. Kevin, your'e no. 2 in the air, did you
keep track of where you drilled? I'm 5' 11" which is about average I
suppose. Would you put the holes so that the pedals could be adjusted in
about 1" increments?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
Working on fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | RV Builders in Needles, CA |
Ron Kinner, a pilot here in Yuma, told me there might be several RV
builders near Needles at Eagle Air Park. Does anyone know these guys?
Assuming they have the wheel on the proper end of the fuse, I'd like to
visit them.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
Working on fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 7/6/01 4:22:43 AM Pacific Daylight Time, ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
writes:
<< I'm aware of 2 resistors on the Navaid. 1 goes to the push to talk switch
to
eliminate noise in the comm radio. the other is used when you use 2 of their
rocker switches.
I've heard of the shaking problem, but most say it is a problem when the
plane is sitting still. as soon as air flow goes over the control surface
the
shaking goes away. if there is a resistor that eliminates this problem,
please pass on the information to me as i am finishing wiring my panel. >>
In the RV there is not a problem with the radio, so you needn't install that
resistor. The resistor I am referring to is a third resistor (I think it is
a 5 ohm 10 W wirewound resistor) and is placed in series with the motor and
decreases motor response for use with the RV's low friction control system.
Navaid will send it to you free.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Rudder and Brake Pedals |
> Kevin, your'e no. 2 in the air, did you
> keep track of where you drilled? I'm 5' 11" which is about average I
> suppose. Would you put the holes so that the pedals could be
> adjusted in about 1" increments?
> Albert Gardner
Al,
Don't know if -6 measurements help, but I just went out and checked
mine. I had the same concern at 6'0". I drilled a set at 4 inches
from the firewall to the front end of the mounting block, and another
when the front end was 3 inches from the firewall. Since the 4-inch
measurement is standard I bolted them there. I've learned it fits me
fine - and I'm thinking much closer to the firewall would cause
problems with full rudder.
Hope this helps.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich <houndsfour(at)mediaone.net> |
I call Navaid today, explained my problem and was told a "resistor and
instructions would be mailed today.
Thanks for the help everyone. But I do have another question.
When I registered my plane with the feds., I received a "User Fee" tax
bill of $2,600.00 from the state of Ill.. has this happened to anyone else?
Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 7/6/01 4:22:43 AM Pacific Daylight Time, ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
> writes:
>
> << I'm aware of 2 resistors on the Navaid. 1 goes to the push to talk switch
> to
> eliminate noise in the comm radio. the other is used when you use 2 of their
> rocker switches.
> I've heard of the shaking problem, but most say it is a problem when the
> plane is sitting still. as soon as air flow goes over the control surface
> the
> shaking goes away. if there is a resistor that eliminates this problem,
> please pass on the information to me as i am finishing wiring my panel. >>
>
> In the RV there is not a problem with the radio, so you needn't install that
> resistor. The resistor I am referring to is a third resistor (I think it is
> a 5 ohm 10 W wirewound resistor) and is placed in series with the motor and
> decreases motor response for use with the RV's low friction control system.
> Navaid will send it to you free.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CiminoJim" <CiminoJim(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 - IO-360 Intake/Air-filter? |
Mike,
My IO-360 is forward facing injection...not updraft. It used to be rear
facing, but I put an IO-360 200HP sump on. The problem is that the toilet
bowl sticks out past the top of my cylinder as well as the baffle by about
two inches. I can make both ends fit, but would need to shorten it by about
two inches. My question was...did anyone using an IO-360 (200HP) use
anything besides Van's air filter kit? I was hoping that someone put the
intake straight out, but I think I will just have to modify this to make it
work.
Thanks,
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, July 06, 2001 11:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 - IO-360 Intake/Air-filter?
>
> OK, After a little research I am now on the same sheet of music. The
IO-360
> 180 horse engines are the same basic engine as the O-360 engines but with
a
> fuel injection system, which means the fuel injection is on the bottom.
> Which also means that the "toilet bowl" intake won't fit. I checked on the
> Lycoming website for dimensions and found that the IO-360 180 horse engine
> is supposedly 24.84 inches tall and the O-360 engine is supposedly 24.59.
> That makes the IO-360 1/4 inch taller.
>
> So the answer to the original question is that Van's updraft air filter
kit
> won't fit as is but will need to have a different base plate made but the
> air box and filter should work as is.
>
> Gert, sorry about my initial confusion but the ole gray matter forgot that
> the 180 horse IO-360's are up draft.
>
> Mike Robertson
>
>
> >From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 - IO-360 Intake/Air-filter?
> >Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2001 21:08:50 -0500
> >
> >
> >Isn't there a difference between the 180 and the 200 hp io360 ????
> >
> >Mike Robertson wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Jim,
> > >
> > > Are you saying that the "toilet bowl" intake tube from Van's won't
fit?
> >All
> > > the -8's I've seen so far using IO-360 engines have the "tolet bowl"
> >intake
> > > tube from Van's that mounts a K&S airfilter to the intake baffle in
> >front of
> > > the #2 cylinder. Mind you, with this intake tube you have to use the
> > > Sky-Tec (or similar) light weight starter.
> > >
> > > Mike Robertson
> > > RV-8A
> > >
> > > >From: "CiminoJim" <CiminoJim(at)email.msn.com>
> > > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > >To: "RV-LIST"
> > > >Subject: RV-List: RV-8 - IO-360 Intake/Air-filter?
> > > >Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 18:14:19 -0400
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >What have the people with IO-360 RV-8's using for air filters or
intake
> > > >air. My IO-360 is 180 HP and Van's air filter kit will not fit.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Jim Cimino
> > > >RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
> > > >http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
> > > >(570)842-4057
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >--
> >is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 7/6/01 6:45:54 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
ebundy(at)velocitus.net writes:
<< Gary, can you elaborate on the instructions? I received the resistor
without any instructions at all. I assumed that it just needs to be wired
in series with either motor power wire. Is there more to it than this? >>
Ed-
That's pretty much it. The instructions they sent with mine say to install
inside the case in series with the motor itself. Probably the best physical
location for the resistor is next to the servo motor. Unsolder one wire from
the motor (it doesn't matter which one). One lead of the resistor is
soldered to the empty motor terminal and the just removed wire is soldered to
the opposite end of the resistor.
Attach to a mounting surface with a little RTV and you should be in business.
The stick shake seems to occur more in the RV series aircraft because the
geometry and mass of the of the control system is just right to feed the
natural recovery frequency of the wing leveler and there isn't sufficient
friction on the ground to damp this out. The combination of air loads and
this resistor is just enough to smooth out the jitters in flight.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:avionics expert |
Dear listers.
I'm almost complete with the wiring on my panel. but I'm having trouble
knowing the terminology of some of the communication wires from the audio
panel to the nav, com, GPS, navaid, intercom, and tri nav c. it seems there
are multiple grounds, sheilds, and power to all above mentioned componets.
if there is an expert on avionics on this list, please e-mail me directly so
we can chat for a spell.
thanks
scott
tampa
rv6a scratching my head
abayman(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | HS 411 Rivet size |
I was about to rivet the HS 411 together when I decided to try out my handy
dandy rivet gauges. Found out that the gauge said the rivet called for in
the plans (470 -4-5) was too short. Squeezed a practice rivet in a right
thickness piece of scrap and the head wouldn't form. Seems you need a
470-4-6 to get the proper head. The archives indicate the same thing.
How hard would it be for Van to correct a detail like this when plans for a
new airplane are drawn up?
John McDonnell RV7A working on emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: HS 411 Rivet size |
In a message dated 7/6/01 9:12:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, JTAnon(at)aol.com
writes:
>
> I was about to rivet the HS 411 together when I decided to try out my handy
> dandy rivet gauges. Found out that the gauge said the rivet called for in
> the plans (470 -4-5) was too short. Squeezed a practice rivet in a right
> thickness piece of scrap and the head wouldn't form. Seems you need a
> 470-4-6 to get the proper head. The archives indicate the same thing.
>
> How hard would it be for Van to correct a detail like this when plans for a
> new airplane are drawn up?
>
> John McDonnell RV7A working on emp
Send a note to the tech support line at Van's. Until someone informs them of
a problem, they can't fix it.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HS 411 Rivet size |
I am building a NINE. I was seeing so much of that same thing with the
firewall. Called for 6's I had to use 7's. Called for 7's I had to use
8's. the 426-4-14 (a biggie) that holds the big thick anodized block in
the aft center section of the fuselage needed 15's.
Any other NINERs find the same?
Not to change the subject, but I will.....1st a disclaimer: I love Van's
Co. I love Van. I love this NINE kit. I love Van's employees.
But I think it would be so easy to make things less confusing, and YES,
maybe save Van's tech line about 8000 calls a year.....
1. Van, please convert your 'BAG' inventory to the tech age. Put all
365-1032a nuts in one bag instead of 3 or 4 different bags within a
given kit (i.e. wing kit). Put all washers of the same part number in
one bag. Rivets the same. This alone would save 2-5 hours per section of
the kit. Maybe more. Logging in the inventory is way tougher than need
be. Open a bag and dump the contents on the table. 93 of this nut, 10 of
that nut, 24 washers, 2 cotter pins etc. You play for 10 minutes sorting
into piles LIKIE, NOT LIKIE.!! its crazy. Then you go to another bag and
find some of the same hardware.
2. The inventory list: needs to be in part number sequence. Period. 5
pages of random numbers to do an inventory??? It, again, is most
noticeable when doing bag inventory. It appears that Van's part number
is "BAG and then number of the bag". But the numbers are not right
justified.
Bag 826
Bag 1926
Bag 1937
should be Bag 0826
Bag 1926
Bag 1937
that way you can sort and print out in a sequence that makes sense.
3. When the plans tell you to make a part out of xyz material, how hard
would it be to say, "Out of the 8" piece"? Sometimes you have 8 foot
lenghts of angle and 2 or 3 short pieces too. It's easy to find the big
piece, but do you need that for a big piece, later? So you go looking
for the little pieces. Wasted time!
If I am to make half a dozen pieces out of 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8" angle. Tell
me to make it out of the 10 foot piece supplied. Forget giving me a 6
foot piece and 4 or 5 6" pieces.
From my mouth to Van's ears.
Barry Pote RV9a Wings/Fuseslage
JTAnon(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I was about to rivet the HS 411 together when I decided to try out my handy
> dandy rivet gauges. Found out that the gauge said the rivet called for in
> the plans (470 -4-5) was too short. Squeezed a practice rivet in a right
> thickness piece of scrap and the head wouldn't form. Seems you need a
> 470-4-6 to get the proper head. The archives indicate the same thing.
>
> How hard would it be for Van to correct a detail like this when plans for a
> new airplane are drawn up?
>
> John McDonnell RV7A working on emp
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HS 411 Rivet size |
John,
You have just learned an important lesson. The plans are not 100% accurate
in all respects. Personally, I adhered to the rivet diameters, spacing,
head type, etc., fairly close. But, I always checked the rivet lengths
called out in the plans with a rivet guage. In many instances, they were
incorrect. When you think about it though, it should be the builder's
responsibility to insure that good building practices and standards are
used. I used the plan's rivet guidelines as a starting point and went from
there.
Another area to watch is dimension call outs for drilling rivet holes.
There will be times that you may end up with less than desirable edge
distance on an underlying structure if plan dimensions are used. The RV7/7a
is considerably pre-punched, so this issue may not be quite as much a
problem as in the past.
Jerry Calvert
RV-6 finish kit
Edmond Ok
----- Original Message -----
From: <JTAnon(at)aol.com>
Sent: Friday, July 06, 2001 8:07 PM
Subject: RV-List: HS 411 Rivet size
>
> I was about to rivet the HS 411 together when I decided to try out my
handy
> dandy rivet gauges. Found out that the gauge said the rivet called for in
> the plans (470 -4-5) was too short. Squeezed a practice rivet in a right
> thickness piece of scrap and the head wouldn't form. Seems you need a
> 470-4-6 to get the proper head. The archives indicate the same thing.
>
> How hard would it be for Van to correct a detail like this when plans for
a
> new airplane are drawn up?
>
> John McDonnell RV7A working on emp
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Rudder and Brake Pedals |
In a message dated 7/6/01 2:12:44 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
>
> I'm about to drill holes for the rudder pedal bearing blocks. The
> Construction Manual says to drill several hole patterns so the fore and aft
> location can be changed as necessary but don't give a starting point. Since
> you can't sit in the fuse at this point (and it's upside down as well) I'm
> wondering what others have done. Kevin, your'e no. 2 in the air, did you
> keep track of where you drilled? I'm 5' 11" which is about average I
> suppose. Would you put the holes so that the pedals could be adjusted in
> about 1" increments?
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
> RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
> Working on fuse
>
>
>
Al` It`s pretty easy to do this when you turn the fusillage back
over
Fred LaForge RV-4 180 CS EAA tech counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HS 411 Rivet size |
Don't hold your breath. There are errors on the -4 plans that have been
there for a decade. Every single builder calls Van's about it...and before
you even get the description of what you've agonized over for 3 hours...they
tell you, "oh yeah..that's an error...the dimension should read from the
other side of the stiffener" Oh well thanks a TON for the hours I just
spent staring at the plans like a moron...it really ticks me off. SO, I
don't even bother now...if it looks wrong to me, I just call them and
ask...most of the time it is wrong. Sometimes I missed something and they
think I've lost my mind...but hey, if the plans were not so full of mistakes
I would doubt myself first instead of the plans. On things like rivet
lengths it's no big deal....you get used to taking a look at it and knowing
what size to go get.
Bill
-4 wings
> From my mouth to Van's ears.
> Barry Pote RV9a Wings/Fuseslage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:avionics expert |
> Dear listers.
> I'm almost complete with the wiring on my panel. but I'm having trouble
> knowing the terminology of some of the communication wires from the audio
> panel to the nav, com, GPS, navaid, intercom, and tri nav c. it seems
there
> are multiple grounds, sheilds, and power to all above mentioned componets.
> if there is an expert on avionics on this list, please e-mail me directly
so
> we can chat for a spell.
> thanks
> scott
> tampa
> rv6a scratching my head
Scott,
If I might offer a suggested approach: do yourself a favor and have your
intercom harness wired for you. It is the only thing with multiple linked
grounds that are hard to connect. I spent $145 having mine done and then did
everything else myself.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, N558RL, 54 hrs, off to the Jackpot air races tomorrow
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Collins" <steveco(at)houston.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beginner question - Thanks |
Thanks to all who responded...
I guess I was being too paranoid. But thanks for the advice and
encouragement.
With a little practice and your tips (using my left hand as a guide and
"drill stop", etc.), it looks like I won't need the drill stops most of
the time (especially for just drilling the pre-punched holes to final
size). And it's good to know the circles from the dimple dies are
indicators and are SUPPOSED to be there. Anyway, as one of you
suggested, I used a Scotchbrite pad to scuff up one of my practice
pieces (as I would before priming), and sure enough, all the scratches
disappeared.
Yesterday I started with some "real" fun (vs. just using practice
pieces). So now I'm 2 days in and well on my way to finishing the HS
rear spar, and everything has gone great! (Yeah, I know this is
probably the easiest part of the whole project - but it's nice to have
some sucess and actually be making progress).
Thanks for welcoming me to the club!
Steve
Houston, TX
RV-7A, empennage.
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Collins
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2001 12:15 AM
Subject: Beginner question
I'm just starting the empennage on an RV7A, and did some practice
drilling and dimpling today. These seem like basic questions, but I
didn't find anything in the archives...When I drill, I'm using those
spring-type drill stops (from Avery). And in every hole I drill, I get
scratches on the surface around the hole (not huge, but definitely
noticeable, and you can feel them will your fingernail). I think it's
from metal filings between the surface and the drill stop when the bit
finally breaks through. Is this normal? Or is it so insignificant that
I shouldn't worry about it? I've also tried just wrapping some duct
tape around the drill bit to act as a stop, but had the same end
results. Any way to prevent this? Also, on all my practice dimples
(only hand squeezer so far), I ended up with circles (scratches?) around
the holes. Again, is this normal? Anything to worry about or do
anything about? By the way, I tried drilling with and without the
plastic on the skin - same results. All the dimples were done with the
plastic off. Maybe I'm just being overly cautious. But if I'm doing
something wrong, I'd rather find out now instead of x,000 holes and
dimples later.
Thanks,
Steve
Houston, TX
RV-7A, starting empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:avionics expert |
Randy hit it dead on..the intercom/audio panel harness
should DEFINATELY be wired professionally..not saying
that us builder's can't do it, lets just say money
very, very well spent. PS Engineering does it, or any
avionics shop. Not to mention, the
grounding/shielding that goes on there will tell how
clean sounding your radio is. I had Aerotronics wire
my basic harness from the GPS to include all necessary
leads, and leave out the unecessary leads..best 100
bucks I spent on the airplane..if you have a local
avionics shop that can just wire all of the Dsubs for
your installation it will save you dozens of hours of
work, headaches, tracing wires, noises, etc. I did my
intercom harness by myself and really wish I wouldn't
have. Martin at Aerotronics walked me through it.
But, if you are determined to do it yourself, give me
a call sometime and I'll give you some tips that I
learned.
Paul "Plexi" Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Inspection in 2 weeks!
--- Randy Lervold <randy@rv-8.com> wrote:
> <randy@rv-8.com>
>
> > Dear listers.
> > I'm almost complete with the wiring on my panel.
> but I'm having trouble
> > knowing the terminology of some of the
> communication wires from the audio
> > panel to the nav, com, GPS, navaid, intercom, and
> tri nav c. it seems
> there
> > are multiple grounds, sheilds, and power to all
> above mentioned componets.
> > if there is an expert on avionics on this list,
> please e-mail me directly
> so
> > we can chat for a spell.
> > thanks
> > scott
> > tampa
> > rv6a scratching my head
>
>
> Scott,
> If I might offer a suggested approach: do yourself a
> favor and have your
> intercom harness wired for you. It is the only thing
> with multiple linked
> grounds that are hard to connect. I spent $145
> having mine done and then did
> everything else myself.
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, N558RL, 54 hrs, off to the Jackpot air races
> tomorrow
> www.rv-8.com
> Home Wing VAF
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Norman wrote:
>
>
> > The
> > only time I have seen an airplane with almost
> > invisible rivet lines is that of Tyler Feldman, and
> > that is because he was so meticulous, that he used a
> > thicker top wing skin and countersunk every hole.
>
snips
There was an article in SA (I think it was a couple of
decades ago) detailing a Smythe Sidwinder. The builder had
painted the entire a/c, and after showing it several times &
not winning 'best of show,' he stripped stripe down each
wing & polished the metal, because judges kept accusing him
of filling the rivet heads. He started winning stuff after
that.
(your tidbit for the day) :-)
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 - IO-360 Intake/Air-filter? |
In a message dated 7/6/01 5:21:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
CiminoJim(at)email.msn.com writes:
> Mike,
> My IO-360 is forward facing injection...not updraft. It used to be rear
> facing, but I put an IO-360 200HP sump on. The problem is that the toilet
> bowl sticks out past the top of my cylinder as well as the baffle by about
> two inches. I can make both ends fit, but would need to shorten it by about
> two inches. My question was...did anyone using an IO-360 (200HP) use
> anything besides Van's air filter kit? I was hoping that someone put the
> intake straight out, but I think I will just have to modify this to make it
> work.
> Thanks,
>
>
>
I did, I had to install a 180hp sump on my IO-360 200hp engine, the stock
200hp sump was to wide for the cowl to fit in my RV-4. I made a 90 degree
elbow to make the throttle body face forward, then I used a modified rocket
ram air / divert to air filter piece with a flapper inside. So on take off
and landings I have filtered air and after I break ground I pull my ram air
cable and enjoy about 3" of extra manifold pressure. This has worked out
extremely well for me.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Mosher" <tmosher(at)gbronline.com> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie and Tupper England" <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 07, 2001 7:48 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: my first 6a
>
> Norman wrote:
> >
> >
> > > The
> > > only time I have seen an airplane with almost
> > > invisible rivet lines is that of Tyler Feldman, and
> > > that is because he was so meticulous, that he used a
> > > thicker top wing skin and countersunk every hole.
> >
> snips
>
> There was an article in SA (I think it was a couple of
> decades ago) detailing a Smythe Sidwinder. The builder had
> painted the entire a/c, and after showing it several times &
> not winning 'best of show,' he stripped stripe down each
> wing & polished the metal, because judges kept accusing him
> of filling the rivet heads. He started winning stuff after
> that.
>
> (your tidbit for the day) :-)
>
> Charlie
>
>
I'm starting to wonder why so many people are concerned about whether you
can or cannot see the rivets - once properly set, the rivet will basically
disappear under the paint. I see it every day at Nordam (where we produce
thrust reversers, inlet cowls, nacelles, and nozzles for multiple aircraft -
Galaxy, Dornier, Cessna, etc).
Tom Mosher
(future RV7A N787RV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alberta RVators |
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
Will:
Contact me off list and I'll put you in touch with a member of Van's Air
Force Western Canada Wing in the Edmonton area.
I haven't been to Edmonton for a couple of years, but the last time I was
there the City Center airport was still a friendly place. There is an
aviation museum on the field, run by a local group (not EAA or RAA, but
similar). It's a very handy airport, being right in the city. You could
actually walk downtown from the airport, if you don't mind a short hike.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Compton" <rdcompton(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Torque settings |
I'm looking for a little help.
I need to reattach my prop and extension, but I'm getting conflicting info
on what torque setting to use for attaching the extension (spool) to the
flywheel/crankshaft.
I've got 3/8 inch bolts. In my "Best of the RV-Ator" book I find
conflicting data in the Prop section regarding torquing the bolts. I see
where 280-300 inch-pounds is recommended, then a reference to 360 in/lb
number from Lycoming, then a reference to the "handbook" of 160-190 in/lb
for 3/8 inch bolts.
The handbook seems low, especially when in the previous section a number of
200 in/lb is given for 3/8 bolts for use in torquing a wood prop. I can't
believe that the torque for the extension-crankshaft would be less than that
for the extension-prop.
What gives?
Randy Compton
RV-3A N148CW
150hp Lycoming O-320
Gulf Breeze, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Compton" <rdcompton(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oh by the way |
One last thing I forgot to include:
According to the RV-Ator, Van recommends an AN103 series bolt, identified by
an "E11" stamp", for attaching the extension to the crank. As I live about
as opposite the country as one can get from Oregon, other than Van's does
anyone know where can I get these? I've searched about everywhere with no
luck.
Also, would it be safe to use an appropriate length AN6 bolt instead? If
so, any suggestions? Looks to me like an AN6-14 or 15 would fit.
Finally, while this RV-3 has been flying for 7 years with Van's slotted
crush plate holding the head of very long AN6 bolts secured with AN365
elastic stop nuts arrangement, it still seems like there should be something
other than a stop nut holding this all together. Other than buying a new
extension with threaded lugs so that the bolt heads can be safety wired, any
thoughts here? Would switching to a drilled shank/castle nut/cotter pin
arrangement be better?
On the other hand, I firmly believe in the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"
theory.
Randy Compton
RV-3A
Gulf Breez, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HS 411 Rivet size |
I have had several cases of the same problem, and usually it takes a longer
rivet. I also would like to know if anyone feels as I do that the 3rd. rib
from the o/b end of the wing should have the flange facing the opposite
direction for ease of bucking?
Both drawings 9 @ 10 show the flange facing o/b. Had I noticed this BEFORE
skinning the top of the wing I would have swapped these ribs with each
other. The same is true of the #4 rib (from i/b) in the wing walk area. I
too think it is a fantastic kit and airplane but some things could be made
easier!!
Gene Park 9A wings......fuse on the way
----- Original Message -----
From: "barry pote" <barrypote(at)home.com>
Sent: Friday, July 06, 2001 7:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: HS 411 Rivet size
>
> I am building a NINE. I was seeing so much of that same thing with the
> firewall. Called for 6's I had to use 7's. Called for 7's I had to use
> 8's. the 426-4-14 (a biggie) that holds the big thick anodized block in
> the aft center section of the fuselage needed 15's.
> Any other NINERs find the same?
>
> Not to change the subject, but I will.....1st a disclaimer: I love Van's
> Co. I love Van. I love this NINE kit. I love Van's employees.
> But I think it would be so easy to make things less confusing, and YES,
> maybe save Van's tech line about 8000 calls a year.....
> 1. Van, please convert your 'BAG' inventory to the tech age. Put all
> 365-1032a nuts in one bag instead of 3 or 4 different bags within a
> given kit (i.e. wing kit). Put all washers of the same part number in
> one bag. Rivets the same. This alone would save 2-5 hours per section of
> the kit. Maybe more. Logging in the inventory is way tougher than need
> be. Open a bag and dump the contents on the table. 93 of this nut, 10 of
> that nut, 24 washers, 2 cotter pins etc. You play for 10 minutes sorting
> into piles LIKIE, NOT LIKIE.!! its crazy. Then you go to another bag and
> find some of the same hardware.
>
> 2. The inventory list: needs to be in part number sequence. Period. 5
> pages of random numbers to do an inventory??? It, again, is most
> noticeable when doing bag inventory. It appears that Van's part number
> is "BAG and then number of the bag". But the numbers are not right
> justified.
> Bag 826
> Bag 1926
> Bag 1937
>
> should be Bag 0826
> Bag 1926
> Bag 1937
>
> that way you can sort and print out in a sequence that makes sense.
> 3. When the plans tell you to make a part out of xyz material, how hard
> would it be to say, "Out of the 8" piece"? Sometimes you have 8 foot
> lenghts of angle and 2 or 3 short pieces too. It's easy to find the big
> piece, but do you need that for a big piece, later? So you go looking
> for the little pieces. Wasted time!
> If I am to make half a dozen pieces out of 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8" angle. Tell
> me to make it out of the 10 foot piece supplied. Forget giving me a 6
> foot piece and 4 or 5 6" pieces.
>
> From my mouth to Van's ears.
> Barry Pote RV9a Wings/Fuseslage
>
>
> JTAnon(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > I was about to rivet the HS 411 together when I decided to try out my
handy
> > dandy rivet gauges. Found out that the gauge said the rivet called for
in
> > the plans (470 -4-5) was too short. Squeezed a practice rivet in a
right
> > thickness piece of scrap and the head wouldn't form. Seems you need a
> > 470-4-6 to get the proper head. The archives indicate the same thing.
> >
> > How hard would it be for Van to correct a detail like this when plans
for a
> > new airplane are drawn up?
> >
> > John McDonnell RV7A working on emp
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Overhead approaches |
lots of fun chat about overhead approaches or a break to landing. in
reality its a military necessity, for general aviation types its no more than
a 360 turn to landing. we must remember when doing anything out of the
ordinary to always give the right of way to the normal pattern guys.
i still remember calling the initial with a flight of four. 500 kts
about 1000' off the deck, we needed G to bleed off energy and slow to
gear/flap speed. 90 degree bank, boards out, gear/flaps on speed, call the
ball, roll into the grouve, watch out for the burble, ok 3 wire....gross
weight take offs, min fuel recovery... thats a small window of life only a
few of us got to enjoy...
and we got paid to do this! ...and in a couple hours we got to do it
again!...
thanks tax payers.
mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Landing on a carrier |
I hate you guys. I really really hate you guys. If there is one thing I
want to get across to the lucky SOB's that were given the opportunity to
make black smoke and noise out of Jet Fuel AS WELL AS land a fire breather
on a carrier, it is this:
I hate you guys....I just have to hate you guys.
Envy is a terrible thing. By the way...I hate you guys. :-)
Bill
-4 wings
>
> lots of fun chat about overhead approaches or a break to landing.
in
> reality its a military necessity, for general aviation types its no more
than
> a 360 turn to landing. we must remember when doing anything out of the
> ordinary to always give the right of way to the normal pattern guys.
> i still remember calling the initial with a flight of four. 500 kts
> about 1000' off the deck, we needed G to bleed off energy and slow to
> gear/flap speed. 90 degree bank, boards out, gear/flaps on speed, call the
> ball, roll into the grouve, watch out for the burble, ok 3 wire....gross
> weight take offs, min fuel recovery... thats a small window of life only a
> few of us got to enjoy...
> and we got paid to do this! ...and in a couple hours we got to do
it
> again!...
> thanks tax payers.
> mike
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | HS 411 Rivet size |
Does anybody see why what Gene proposes would be a problem? Is there a
specific reason that the ribs couldn't be swapped that's not apparent as
yet? Those that are done with the wings--can you shed a little light on what
pitfalls may be lurking?
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gene
Sent: Saturday, July 07, 2001 10:05 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: HS 411 Rivet size
I have had several cases of the same problem, and usually it takes a longer
rivet. I also would like to know if anyone feels as I do that the 3rd. rib
from the o/b end of the wing should have the flange facing the opposite
direction for ease of bucking?
Both drawings 9 @ 10 show the flange facing o/b. Had I noticed this BEFORE
skinning the top of the wing I would have swapped these ribs with each
other. The same is true of the #4 rib (from i/b) in the wing walk area. I
too think it is a fantastic kit and airplane but some things could be made
easier!!
Gene Park 9A wings......fuse on the way
----- Original Message -----
From: "barry pote" <barrypote(at)home.com>
Sent: Friday, July 06, 2001 7:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: HS 411 Rivet size
>
> I am building a NINE. I was seeing so much of that same thing with the
> firewall. Called for 6's I had to use 7's. Called for 7's I had to use
> 8's. the 426-4-14 (a biggie) that holds the big thick anodized block in
> the aft center section of the fuselage needed 15's.
> Any other NINERs find the same?
>
> Not to change the subject, but I will.....1st a disclaimer: I love Van's
> Co. I love Van. I love this NINE kit. I love Van's employees.
> But I think it would be so easy to make things less confusing, and YES,
> maybe save Van's tech line about 8000 calls a year.....
> 1. Van, please convert your 'BAG' inventory to the tech age. Put all
> 365-1032a nuts in one bag instead of 3 or 4 different bags within a
> given kit (i.e. wing kit). Put all washers of the same part number in
> one bag. Rivets the same. This alone would save 2-5 hours per section of
> the kit. Maybe more. Logging in the inventory is way tougher than need
> be. Open a bag and dump the contents on the table. 93 of this nut, 10 of
> that nut, 24 washers, 2 cotter pins etc. You play for 10 minutes sorting
> into piles LIKIE, NOT LIKIE.!! its crazy. Then you go to another bag and
> find some of the same hardware.
>
> 2. The inventory list: needs to be in part number sequence. Period. 5
> pages of random numbers to do an inventory??? It, again, is most
> noticeable when doing bag inventory. It appears that Van's part number
> is "BAG and then number of the bag". But the numbers are not right
> justified.
> Bag 826
> Bag 1926
> Bag 1937
>
> should be Bag 0826
> Bag 1926
> Bag 1937
>
> that way you can sort and print out in a sequence that makes sense.
> 3. When the plans tell you to make a part out of xyz material, how hard
> would it be to say, "Out of the 8" piece"? Sometimes you have 8 foot
> lenghts of angle and 2 or 3 short pieces too. It's easy to find the big
> piece, but do you need that for a big piece, later? So you go looking
> for the little pieces. Wasted time!
> If I am to make half a dozen pieces out of 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8" angle. Tell
> me to make it out of the 10 foot piece supplied. Forget giving me a 6
> foot piece and 4 or 5 6" pieces.
>
> From my mouth to Van's ears.
> Barry Pote RV9a Wings/Fuseslage
>
>
> JTAnon(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > I was about to rivet the HS 411 together when I decided to try out my
handy
> > dandy rivet gauges. Found out that the gauge said the rivet called for
in
> > the plans (470 -4-5) was too short. Squeezed a practice rivet in a
right
> > thickness piece of scrap and the head wouldn't form. Seems you need a
> > 470-4-6 to get the proper head. The archives indicate the same thing.
> >
> > How hard would it be for Van to correct a detail like this when plans
for a
> > new airplane are drawn up?
> >
> > John McDonnell RV7A working on emp
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince" <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
With all of this talk about overhead approaches lately, I am reminded
of a question that I have always had. I was told by one CFI to
maintain pattern altitude until established on final. I was told by
another to begin letting down on the base leg in order to arrive on
final at an altitude of 500 feet agl. Both of these are for a
standard box type of approach pattern.
What is the opinion of the CFI's in the group?
Vince Welch
RV-8A Fuselage
Roaming Shores, Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HS 411 Rivet size |
Some NINER called Van's and asked, and I was told that Van's said "NO
PROBLEM, go ahead and swap them." Of course that was 2 weeks too late
for me. We could not get in there with our arms. We used a few cherymax
rivets there. Van's told me that CS4's if long enough, would have
worked.
Of course that begs the question, if it's easier to rivet by swapping
them and it doesn't hurt the strength, why not blue print it that way??
Barry Pote RV9a Fuselage
Greg Tanner wrote:
>
>
> Does anybody see why what Gene proposes would be a problem? Is there a
> specific reason that the ribs couldn't be swapped that's not apparent as
> yet? Those that are done with the wings--can you shed a little light on what
> pitfalls may be lurking?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
For a standard pattern entry, you want to be at the published TPA
(traffic pattern altitude) before you call the Downwind at non-towered
fields(some airports will have different TPAs depending on the
speed/weight of the aircraft). Most instructors will have you start the
descent when your landing spot is abeam your wing (the 90 degree point).
Then, depending on how "tight" or "wide" you are to the runway, you
will stabilize the descent between 500-750 ft/min. Aim for a spot just
below "the numbers" to account for your landing flare, later on. If the
spot moves UP your windshield, you're going to land short--if the spot
moves DOWN, you're going to land long.
Remember (they used to beat us with heavy sticks in the military until
we could say it in our sleep): throttle = sink rate; stick = airspeed.
If you stay at pattern altitude until Final, that means you're 2-3 miles
out and holding everyone else up or you're practicing for carrier quals
and want to buy a new set of gear legs/tires, maybe a prop.
Boyd.
Vince wrote:
>
>
> With all of this talk about overhead approaches lately, I am reminded
> of a question that I have always had. I was told by one CFI to
> maintain pattern altitude until established on final. I was told by
> another to begin letting down on the base leg in order to arrive on
> final at an altitude of 500 feet agl. Both of these are for a
> standard box type of approach pattern.
>
> What is the opinion of the CFI's in the group?
>
> Vince Welch
> RV-8A Fuselage
> Roaming Shores, Ohio
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oh by the way |
According to Accepted Practices, Methods, etc., prop bolts should be
safety wired in pairs, but with drilled heads, not shanks/threads, and,
lock nuts, Nyloc or metal, for extra insurance.
Randy Compton wrote:
>
>
> One last thing I forgot to include:
>
> According to the RV-Ator, Van recommends an AN103 series bolt, identified by
> an "E11" stamp", for attaching the extension to the crank. As I live about
> as opposite the country as one can get from Oregon, other than Van's does
> anyone know where can I get these? I've searched about everywhere with no
> luck.
>
> Also, would it be safe to use an appropriate length AN6 bolt instead? If
> so, any suggestions? Looks to me like an AN6-14 or 15 would fit.
>
> Finally, while this RV-3 has been flying for 7 years with Van's slotted
> crush plate holding the head of very long AN6 bolts secured with AN365
> elastic stop nuts arrangement, it still seems like there should be something
> other than a stop nut holding this all together. Other than buying a new
> extension with threaded lugs so that the bolt heads can be safety wired, any
> thoughts here? Would switching to a drilled shank/castle nut/cotter pin
> arrangement be better?
>
> On the other hand, I firmly believe in the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"
> theory.
>
> Randy Compton
> RV-3A
> Gulf Breez, FL
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
If you do this, your pattern will be too wide out of necessity. Either that,
or you'll have to make the final leg steep with power off. You should be
about 500' AGL when you turn final.
Jerry Carter
RV-8A
Flying 15.8 hrs
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vince" <vwelch(at)knownet.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 07, 2001 11:36 AM
Subject: RV-List: Landings
>
> With all of this talk about overhead approaches lately, I am reminded
> of a question that I have always had. I was told by one CFI to
> maintain pattern altitude until established on final. I was told by
> another to begin letting down on the base leg in order to arrive on
> final at an altitude of 500 feet agl. Both of these are for a
> standard box type of approach pattern.
>
> What is the opinion of the CFI's in the group?
>
> Vince Welch
> RV-8A Fuselage
> Roaming Shores, Ohio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
>With all of this talk about overhead approaches lately, I am reminded of a
>question that I have always had. I was told by one CFI to
>maintain pattern altitude until established on final.
Hmmmm. Then do what you have to do to get down to the runway. That would
make for a LONG final, to allow room to descend from pattern altitude to
get anywhere near the numbers, depending on what airplane you have, or some
good practice at slipping. Short wing Piper, American Tiger: you can be at
pattern altitude OVER the numbers and touch down just beyond them. (Not
quite, just seems like it.) If you have a 10,000 foot runway and want to
land in the middle of it, this would probably be OK. I would not recommend
this pattern in most aircraft.
> I was told by another to begin letting down on the base leg in order to
> arrive on
>final at an altitude of 500 feet agl. Both of these are for a standard
>box type of approach pattern.
Probably a variation of the preferred method. Again, depends on the
aircraft. You will have to adjust your altitude on final (doesn't have to
be 500 feet, exactly) or the length of your final, depending on the glide
angle in landing configuration of the airplane you are flying. You should
be able to get to where most of your final approaches are done with
throttle at idle to "the numbers", then flair, without having to add power
to get to the runway, landing about in the same place every time (third
wire). What does it look like. You want your approaches to "look" the same
to you every time you land. Again, in most of the airplanes we fly. (Need
power to wheel on the P-51: wingspan of a Cessna, weight of a King Air).
Besides, if some day you suddenly don't have the power to add, you want to
be able to get to pavement from where you are.
The key to a good landing is a good approach.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
"BALL"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
Hi Austin,
Peel ply is a dacron polyester material that wont stick to the resin when cured.
When you lay up the fiberglass and get all the layers on you want, you finish
with a piece of peel ply on top while the resin is still wet. The peel ply
will soak up the excess epoxy resin and you leave it on for 24 hours until the
resin is cured. The peel ply peels right off and leaves a very slick, smooth
surface with little or no pin holes. This makes finishing of the fiberglass
a lot easier as you won't have the normal weave pattern and pin holes in the
final product. Peel ply is availible from Wicks or Aircraft Spruce.
Good luck,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A - N57ME (reserved) Almost ready to move to airport)
www.ericsrv6a.com
In a message dated Sat, 7 Jul 2001 8:12:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Austin"
<6430(at)axion.net> writes:
<>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
> I believe peel ply is only used whilst vacuum bagging, so unless
> you're
> planning on doing so I don't think you need it. Someone else may set
> me
> straight on this, though...
Matt,
Peel Ply is also used on hand lay ups - as the last "ply" to go on the
lay up. The peel ply will draw up more than its share of epoxy resin
(which requires a wetter than usual lay up) which will result in a very
smooth finish after it is pulled (peeled) up.
Good stuff - but makes for a heavy lay up, so you want to use it
sparingly, only where a really smooth finish is desired, or in a place
that would be difficult to sand well (like on the windshield fairing).
Mike Thompson, ex Long-EZ builder
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 - IO-360 Intake/Air-filter? |
Meanreen
Does your post mean that your filtered air gives you a 3" loss in available mp
or
that the absence of filtered air gives you a 3" gain in available mp? A well
designed filter system should show a loss of no more than 1/2" mp
while at the magical 200mph IAS straight induction should show a gain of 1 to 1
1/2" mp. I realize were flying RVs and not all rules seem to apply to our
wonderful airplanes but your post needs further clairification.
Happy Flying
Tom
RV3
MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 7/6/01 5:21:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> CiminoJim(at)email.msn.com writes:
>
> > Mike,
> > My IO-360 is forward facing injection...not updraft. It used to be rear
> > facing, but I put an IO-360 200HP sump on. The problem is that the toilet
> > bowl sticks out past the top of my cylinder as well as the baffle by about
> > two inches. I can make both ends fit, but would need to shorten it by about
> > two inches. My question was...did anyone using an IO-360 (200HP) use
> > anything besides Van's air filter kit? I was hoping that someone put the
> > intake straight out, but I think I will just have to modify this to make it
> > work.
> > Thanks,
> >
> >
> >
>
> I did, I had to install a 180hp sump on my IO-360 200hp engine, the stock
> 200hp sump was to wide for the cowl to fit in my RV-4. I made a 90 degree
> elbow to make the throttle body face forward, then I used a modified rocket
> ram air / divert to air filter piece with a flapper inside. So on take off
> and landings I have filtered air and after I break ground I pull my ram air
> cable and enjoy about 3" of extra manifold pressure. This has worked out
> extremely well for me.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 IO-360 alternate air ? |
I'm installing an angle-valve (200 hp) IO-360 in my RV-8A. I'm using the
standard (?) intake for this engine- theone with two holes in the cowl
instead of three. If anyone has come up with a nice way of providing for
alternate air with this setup I'd love to see pictures and/or a
description... no point reinventing the wheel if I don't have to.
Vans design doesn't have a provision for alternate air and I'd kind of like
to have it...
Matthew
-8A fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
Page 43 in the Aircraft Spruce catalog lists the stuff, it's primary
use,and availabity in tape or sheet,in Dacron or Poly/Dacron blend.
Sure helps to get a smooth job.
Bob Adams,-6A
finishing?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | deltaB(at)erols.com |
Doesn't that depend if you are Navy or Air Force?? Sounds
like Navy doctrine.
Bernie C.
"Boyd C. Braem" wrote:
>
>
> Remember (they used to beat us with heavy sticks in the military until
> we could say it in our sleep): throttle = sink rate; stick = airspeed.
>
>
> Boyd.
>
> Vince wrote:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Van's alternator wiring? |
Anyone using Van's alternator know how the green, white, and black wires are
supposed to be connected??
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
RV6 - finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jody Villa" <jodyvilla(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I know this goes against the grain of this list since this is not a
builders question. But I was having my 8 professionally built for a
number of reasons and I've run into a problem with the builder. Family
problems have forced him to abandon building for an unspecified period
of time with no guarantee that it would ever be finished.. I have made
a few suggestions to him but as of yet they have gone unanswered. The
aircraft is probably 60% finished. The wings are on, the engine hung,
some plumbing and wiring. The panel is built and ready to install.
Some of the things I have suggested is that I fly out and help him
finish it or at least finish it with his guidance, he could find
someone to finish it or I would fly out and truck the whole thing
home.
Questions;
1.Is there someone in the Phoenix area that could finish this project?
2.How difficult would it be to transport an RV8 across country in a
truck?
3. If I finish it myself, what kind of problems can I expect to have
with a DAR regarding no build logs or pictures from the beginning to
this point?
4. Anyone interested in purchasing?
Any other suggestions are welcome because at this point with the money
I've spent and the state of this project I ready to slit my wrists.
(just kidding!)
**************************************************
Jody Villa Tewksbury, NJ USA
*************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lost friends |
Listers,
isn't that a coiencidence,
the very same subject, Jerry was warning us about, ( density altitude ) now
shows its ugly head, and claims 2 of our brothers.
Jerry was almost run off the list because he was warning us of the dangers of
density altitude, and some list member flammed him for it.
i say again, thank you jerry for trying to keep us low lander, low time
pilots out of trouble.
Prayers to the Family and friends,
scott reviere
tampa rv6a finishing
low time and low lander
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lost friends |
Hi Jerry,
Sorry to here of the loss of a good friend, and aviator.
Everyone thinks it won't happen to them. It can happen to anyone who is just
a little complaicent about their flying.
I moved to Casper, WY a couple of years ago, (elev. 5348) from the
Minneapolos area (elev. 906) and I can tell you I have learned alot about
density altitude especially on 95 deg day like we have had for the past
month. I try not to take things I used to take for granted anymore.
I've seen some pretty scary things this summer but luckily we have a couple
really long runways.
So please stay on the list and keep us not so knowlagable folks appraised of
things we need to know.
John Danielson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What to do..... |
Jody,
Only for what it MAY be worth.-- There is a guy up this way who builds
RV's He may insist that the owner get involved He lives in Pheonix, New
York. A small town near Fulton, N.Y. If you think you might want to go
this route let me know and I will get his phone N
writes:
>
>
> I know this goes against the grain of this list since this is not a
> builders question. But I was having my 8 professionally built for a
> number of reasons and I've run into a problem with the builder.
> Family
> problems have forced him to abandon building for an unspecified
> period
> of time with no guarantee that it would ever be finished.. I have
> made
> a few suggestions to him but as of yet they have gone unanswered.
> The
> aircraft is probably 60% finished. The wings are on, the engine
> hung,
> some plumbing and wiring. The panel is built and ready to install.
>
> Some of the things I have suggested is that I fly out and help him
> finish it or at least finish it with his guidance, he could find
> someone to finish it or I would fly out and truck the whole thing
> home.
>
> Questions;
>
> 1.Is there someone in the Phoenix area that could finish this
> project?
> 2.How difficult would it be to transport an RV8 across country in a
> truck?
> 3. If I finish it myself, what kind of problems can I expect to have
> with a DAR regarding no build logs or pictures from the beginning to
> this point?
> 4. Anyone interested in purchasing?
>
> Any other suggestions are welcome because at this point with the
> money
> I've spent and the state of this project I ready to slit my wrists.
> (just kidding!)
>
>
> **************************************************
> Jody Villa Tewksbury, NJ USA
>
> *************************************************
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What to do..... |
Jody,
When I looked up at my screen it was sending mail. I don't know what
happened. Did you get any of my message ? My last sentence was mentioning
that I would get this mans phone # for you if you wanted it.
Larry Mac Donald
Rochester N.Y.
I know this goes against the grain of this list since this is not a
> builders question. But I was having my 8 professionally built for a
> number of reasons and I've run into a problem with the builder.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Induction Systems LONG |
Sorry for the wait, but i finally got my cowl off and took some pix of
the ram air ducting/flapper door. My scanner crapped out, so I'll need
your mailing address.
Boyd.
Rv6plt(at)cs.com wrote:
>
>
> Boyd,
> I would be interested in seeing pics and drawings. Sounds like a good
> system.
>
> John Henley
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
| Subject: | Bag contents list |
Listers -
Would someone please fax me the list of parts in each bag for the RV-8 wing
kit? I can't find this invaluable sheet of paper in the kit anywhere. Fax
is 801-382-1974.
Thanks,
Parker Thomas
F. Parker Thomas
PO Box 190894
San Francisco, CA 94119
parker(at)iname.com
==============
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Van's alternator wiring? |
In a message dated 7/8/01 5:45:25 AM Pacific Daylight Time, rv6bldr(at)home.com
writes:
<< Anyone using Van's alternator know how the green, white, and black wires
are
supposed to be connected??
>>
Jerry: I have not wired mine in yet but according to Van's OP-10 wiring
diagram in front of me the green wire is the field, goes to voltage reg., the
black goes to gnd., and the white wire is not used.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Hughes" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Overhead approaches |
Boyd,
AF guys absolutely could land on a carrier. We just didn't want to have to
STAY on the thing! And who says we never got to throw up in formation? The
nice guys at Navy New Orleans (Callendar?) used to let us stay there all the
time!
Keith "Dodger" Hughes
----- Original Message -----
From: Boyd C. Braem <bcbraem(at)home.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 07, 2001 3:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Overhead approaches
>
> Keith--
>
> Aaaaaaaaack!!! Guys that can't crash land on a carrier or throw up,
> hangover-style, in a jet and still stay in formation always want the
> last word. What's this country coming to?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | another dumb question |
I have a nippondenso altenator taken from a chevy sprint.. it has the
internal volt reg...the plug coming out of the back of it has three
wires..one white, one light yellow, and one black....can't find the
wiring diagram for the sprint anywhere...can some kind soul please tell
me where the **** these wires go....?...no, they won't
fit...there..{:~)...thank you so much...
RV8A..waiting on exhaust pipes, then..paint..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
| Subject: | What's wrong with this picture? |
http://dkoelzer.murkworks.com/snf01/rval.jpg
Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] What's wrong with this picture? |
Other than it has a nosewheel?? Just kidding everyone. Very nice
aluminum cowl though (either that or nice job of polishing fiberglass).
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM (res) Building Flaps
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane
To: Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com ; Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2001 10:39 PM
Subject: [rv8list] What's wrong with this picture?
http://dkoelzer.murkworks.com/snf01/rval.jpg
Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
IF YOU WISH TO UNSUBSCRIBE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO :
rv8list-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] What's wrong with this picture? |
Great job of applying sticky-backed aluminum tape on the cowl!!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mike Nellis
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001 8:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] What's wrong with this picture?
Other than it has a nosewheel?? Just kidding everyone. Very nice
aluminum cowl though (either that or nice job of polishing fiberglass).
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM (res) Building Flaps
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane
To: Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com ; Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2001 10:39 PM
Subject: [rv8list] What's wrong with this picture?
http://dkoelzer.murkworks.com/snf01/rval.jpg
Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
IF YOU WISH TO UNSUBSCRIBE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO :
rv8list-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Streit <wooody98(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Priming fuel tank |
I am building an RV-9 and I have used a 2 part epoxy primer on all of
the parts so far. Now I am the process of building the tanks and
wondering if the fuel tank skins(inside) and ribs should be primed as
well. I have seen many pictures of other projects and have not seen any
that were primed on the inside
What is the opinion of all you builders out there???
Jim Streit
90073 tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Priming fuel tank |
NO NO NO.......do not prime tank ribs or skins!!!! Think about it, why would
you even want to? Will the av gas cause corrosion? no reply necessary. Bob in
Ark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Priming fuel tank |
> I am building an RV-9 and I have used a 2 part epoxy primer on all of
> the parts so far. Now I am the process of building the tanks and
> wondering if the fuel tank skins(inside) and ribs should be primed as
> well. I have seen many pictures of other projects and have not seen any
> that were primed on the inside
> What is the opinion of all you builders out there???
My tank insides and my firewall steel are the only two areas that have no
primer.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: What's wrong with this picture? |
The aircraft in the picture is a local RV-6A. The guy who built it bonded
aluminum sheet to the cowl and wingtips in the shiny areas, then had it
polished.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Priming fuel tank |
NO!
Don't do that.
No primer inside the tanks. It might disolve and clog that all important
fuel line sometime, just when you least need it.
Barry Pote RV9a Wings/Fuselage
Jim Streit wrote:
>
>
> I am building an RV-9 and I have used a 2 part epoxy primer on all of
> the parts so far. Now I am the process of building the tanks and
> wondering if the fuel tank skins(inside) and ribs should be primed as
> well. I have seen many pictures of other projects and have not seen any
> that were primed on the inside
> What is the opinion of all you builders out there???
>
> Jim Streit
> 90073 tanks
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Are Barstad <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Priming fuel tank |
I did not prime mine and I wouldn't recommend it.
However... I stopped by the hangars where the Canadian Bush Hawk (Found Aircraft)
is being manufactured. (You may have seen one of them at S&F this year). This
is a Beaver like aircraft with an IO-540 and designed primarily as a work horse
for remote areas. From looking at the wings as they were being assembled
I asked the chief engineer a few questions.
The fuel tanks are of same design as the RV's except bigger. They used similar
caps and same strainers. I guess these are fairly standard in the industry. Other
than that it even bolted onto the wing same as an RV. What surprised me was
that they primed the inside of the fuel tank... I asked about it and they told
me that this particular Bush Hawk was going to Alaska and would be doing lot
of float plane work along the coast so even the fuel tanks could be subject
to corrosion on the inside - especially from a salty environment. They used a
*special* 2-part epoxy primer. He further told me that it could be dangerous to
use primer inside fuel tanks unless you were absolute sure of the methods and
product. Otherwise (as others will mention), primer can i.e. clog up the fuel
pick-up tube. These guys actually prime all the tanks regardless of the destination
of the aircraft but again, they do know how to do it.
FWIW,
Are
RV-8 Wings
>
> From: Jim Streit <wooody98(at)bellsouth.net>
> Date: 2001/07/09 Mon AM 12:24:49 EDT
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Priming fuel tank
>
>
> I am building an RV-9 and I have used a 2 part epoxy primer on all of
> the parts so far. Now I am the process of building the tanks and
> wondering if the fuel tank skins(inside) and ribs should be primed as
> well. I have seen many pictures of other projects and have not seen any
> that were primed on the inside
> What is the opinion of all you builders out there???
>
> Jim Streit
> 90073 tanks
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Priming fuel tank |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
10:46:07 AM
Wow, this is nuts. I can't believe that if you put gas in a tank for twenty
years that ALL the primer will stay on, I don't care what the brochure
says. Now lets say just a little primer comes off and you see it in your
fuel filter. You can A: say, boy that fuel filter sure worked good catching
that primer or B: Say, it wasn't much primer but theres bound to be more
show up, which means I have a real problem. How do I now get all that old
primer out of the tanks to the point that I can be certian that old primer
will not make the windmill stop some time down the road. They fought this
same problem back in the bad old days when they said to slosh the tanks.
That slosh turned into a nightmare for lots of people. Now how many people
do you know of that have faced corrosion problems inside their tanks? I've
never heard of a one (rv that is). Sometimes the devil you know is better
than the devil you don't know.
Eric Henson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd W. Rudberg" <todd_rudberg(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Priming fuel tank |
FYI, BAe and Boeing prime all components in their wings -- several of you
use the same primer Dupont something or other that BAe does (I looked into
this at one point). I did not prime my tanks because I am a wus. I think
priming is okay providing you know what you are doing and have good primer
and surface prep. I just did want to screw up so I punted and followed RV
conventional wisdom. Also, they put an orangish/pinkish substance down
before sealing the stringers, this stuff has a HAZMAT sheet as long as your
arm, so I doubt priming tanks and getting the knowledge to do it correctly
outweighs the benefits.
> Wow, this is nuts. I can't believe that if you put gas in a tank for
twenty
> years that ALL the primer will stay on, I don't care what the brochure
> says.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 - IO-360 Intake/Air-filter? |
Gotcha, Well, if you have already done the canopy skirt then this should be
easy. Good Luck.
Mike
>From: "CiminoJim" <CiminoJim(at)email.msn.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 - IO-360 Intake/Air-filter?
>Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 20:12:09 -0400
>
>
>Mike,
> My IO-360 is forward facing injection...not updraft. It used to be
>rear
>facing, but I put an IO-360 200HP sump on. The problem is that the toilet
>bowl sticks out past the top of my cylinder as well as the baffle by about
>two inches. I can make both ends fit, but would need to shorten it by
>about
>two inches. My question was...did anyone using an IO-360 (200HP) use
>anything besides Van's air filter kit? I was hoping that someone put the
>intake straight out, but I think I will just have to modify this to make
>it
>work.
> Thanks,
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
>To:
>Sent: Friday, July 06, 2001 11:12 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 - IO-360 Intake/Air-filter?
>
>
> >
> > OK, After a little research I am now on the same sheet of music. The
>IO-360
> > 180 horse engines are the same basic engine as the O-360 engines but
>with
>a
> > fuel injection system, which means the fuel injection is on the bottom.
> > Which also means that the "toilet bowl" intake won't fit. I checked on
>the
> > Lycoming website for dimensions and found that the IO-360 180 horse
>engine
> > is supposedly 24.84 inches tall and the O-360 engine is supposedly
>24.59.
> > That makes the IO-360 1/4 inch taller.
> >
> > So the answer to the original question is that Van's updraft air filter
>kit
> > won't fit as is but will need to have a different base plate made but
>the
> > air box and filter should work as is.
> >
> > Gert, sorry about my initial confusion but the ole gray matter forgot
>that
> > the 180 horse IO-360's are up draft.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> >
> >
> > >From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 - IO-360 Intake/Air-filter?
> > >Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2001 21:08:50 -0500
> > >
> > >
> > >Isn't there a difference between the 180 and the 200 hp io360 ????
> > >
> > >Mike Robertson wrote:
> > > >
>
> > > >
> > > > Jim,
> > > >
> > > > Are you saying that the "toilet bowl" intake tube from Van's won't
>fit?
> > >All
> > > > the -8's I've seen so far using IO-360 engines have the "tolet bowl"
> > >intake
> > > > tube from Van's that mounts a K&S airfilter to the intake baffle in
> > >front of
> > > > the #2 cylinder. Mind you, with this intake tube you have to use
>the
> > > > Sky-Tec (or similar) light weight starter.
> > > >
> > > > Mike Robertson
> > > > RV-8A
> > > >
> > > > >From: "CiminoJim" <CiminoJim(at)email.msn.com>
> > > > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > > >To: "RV-LIST"
> > > > >Subject: RV-List: RV-8 - IO-360 Intake/Air-filter?
> > > > >Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 18:14:19 -0400
> > > > >
>
> > > > >
> > > > >What have the people with IO-360 RV-8's using for air filters or
>intake
> > > > >air. My IO-360 is 180 HP and Van's air filter kit will not fit.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >Jim Cimino
> > > > >RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
> > > > >http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
> > > > >(570)842-4057
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >--
> > >is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
.....military pilots get to have ALL the fun?!
http://vondane.com/rv8a/images/rv8aboom.jpg
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
Thanks Andy...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | HS 411 Rivet Size |
What works best for me :
I use a flat multi compartment clear plastic container with 2 inch x 2
inch x 1 1/2 inch deep compartments and then put all my rivets and
anchor nuts in it organized by size and length. Then on the outside of
the cover mark above each compartment the rivet size. After you use it
for awhile you will get to recognize the rivets by sight only.
My rule for correct rivet length is 1 1/2 the diameter protruding from
the hole, just eye ball it no measurement required. Rivet it or squeeze
it then check it with your rivet gauge to see it you have a legal rivet.
In some cases were a rivet is a bit short going to the next longer
length will give a shop head that is larger than necessary if I haven't
got a half size I may cut it but usually just go with the larger shop
head. I never use a rivet that won't make a legal shop head.
Building the RV I try the rivet that is called out on the drawing and if
it doesn't check out just go to the next size up or down, with my
rivets sorted in the container and kept handy changing rivet size is a
none issue.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 - IO-360 Intake/Air-filter? |
In a message dated 7/7/01 8:29:13 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
> Meanreen
> Does your post mean that your filtered air gives you a 3" loss in available
> mp or
> that the absence of filtered air gives you a 3" gain in available mp? A well
> designed filter system should show a loss of no more than 1/2" mp
> while at the magical 200mph IAS straight induction should show a gain of 1
> to 1
> 1/2" mp. I realize were flying RVs and not all rules seem to apply to our
> wonderful airplanes but your post needs further clairification.
> Happy Flying
> Tom
> RV3
>
>
>
No I don't lose mp I gain it (based at an altitude of 1000 ft), the scoop
inlet starts at 4" then concentrically reduces to 3" at this point the
flapper can divert to the 3" filter or allow it straight to the throttlebody,
after the filter it then concentrically reduces to 21/2" the size of the
throttlebody's inlet, forward speed, & prop blast provide the compressed air
for the extra power. At altitude 6000 ft I only see 1" of mp gain.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Capt. Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
Just go to the local fabric store and find the Dacron or polyester "coat
liner". it's the same stuff. I used it all during my fiberglass "phase".
btw. I even brushed a coat of epoxy on top of the peel ply to ensure there's
no air bubbles or dry spots underneath and it all seemed to work out pretty
good.
Steve DiNieri
n221rv n5085w
Page 43 in the Aircraft Spruce catalog lists the stuff, it's primary
use,and availabity in tape or sheet,in Dacron or Poly/Dacron blend.
Sure helps to get a smooth job.
Bob Adams,-6A
finishing?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: another dumb question |
In a message dated 7/8/01 7:07:17 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jollyd(at)teleport.com writes:
> I have a nippondenso altenator taken from a chevy sprint.. it has the
> internal volt reg...the plug coming out of the back of it has three
> wires..one white, one light yellow, and one black....can't find the
> wiring diagram for the sprint anywhere...can some kind soul please tell
> me where the **** these wires go....?...no, they won't
> fit...there..{:~)...thank you so much...
> RV8A..waiting on exhaust pipes, then..paint..
>
>
>
Out of the three male plugs in the back of the alternator you only use one of
them, it is the one closest to the armature, that is your field wire, or
another name is an exciter wire. that wire is a hot wire that is connected to
a 10 amp breaker (to isolate if necessary). There is also the hot wire that
connects to the battery (it to is connected to a 35 - 50 amp breaker
(to isolate if necessary).
Tim Barnes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Are Barstad <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Who say's..... |
Nah - that's clearly a fake! If it had been an -8 (tailwheel) I would have believed
it. The nosewheel on the 8A slows it down a whopping 2 kts so it wouldn't
be possible...
All in fun,
Are (Is it Friday yet???)
>
> From: Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
> Date: 2001/07/09 Mon AM 11:56:38 EDT
> To: "Rv8list@Egroups" , Rv-List
> Subject: RV-List: Who say's.....
>
>
> .....military pilots get to have ALL the fun?!
>
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/images/rv8aboom.jpg
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8VD
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
> mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
>
> Thanks Andy...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Dave and I started our Air-Tec IO-360 for the first time on the 3rd and have
run it 4 additional times.
We rec'd the engine in late May, 1999. Dick Waters (Air-Tec) had filled the
cyl with white Litium grease and we added about 10 qts of oil for the
storage time. Dick asked us to call him prior to starting which we did. He
and Dennis briefed us, said they were available if we had any problems and
faxed us their engine pre-start check list.
We drained the oil and bleed the oil lines and did a pre-run inspection. We
pressurized the fuel system for the first time and no leaks - The QB fuel
tanks looked great and didn't leak. The engine start went as expected, on
the second blade it caught and after a couple of puffs of white smoke, we
found it was running very rich. Our fault - we had reversed the mixture arm.
We corrected it and it starts and runs well.
We had a couple of oil leaks: around the governor, oil filter and one one of
the oil lines. All corrected and no oil leaks on the fifth run.
All our CHT temps are at 150 C and our EGTs are at approx 750 C with the
exception of #2 which is running at 550 C. We will be check for a cold air
leak this afternoon.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (clearing punch list items)
Niantic, CT (Westerly RI airport)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
"rv-list(at)matronics.com"
I'm about to correct a little engine sag. Just a hair less than 1/8"
after 300 hrs--or, conveniently just about the thickness of a large
engine mount washer. I have the hoist and lifting strap and have
ground/polished two bolts into "bullets".
Never having done this before, there are some questions:
1. can the washer be slipped in behind the bottom rear Lord mount
biscuit by just taking all the weight of the mounts (ie, just tightening
the hoist so that the engine weighs "0"?
2. does anything need to removed or loosened for safety or other reasons?
3. one of the rear bottom biscuits looks like it's collapsed approx.
1/16"--does this mean replacement or just further observation? What's
the expected life span of Lord mount biscuits exposed to aerobatic stresses?
4. For the Rocket folks, does everybody use Lord mount #J-9613-12?
Thanks to all in advance.
Boyd.
RV-Super6
IO-540
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | RV6A Nose Gear Leg |
A fellow RV'er from Texas who is spending the summer here in the mountains
brought his RV6A along. He reports that the bolt that connects through the
"tube" on the engine mount and passes through the upper part of the inserted
gear leg is causing a problem. It seems the hole in the engine mount
"socket" that accepts the gear leg has been elongated laterally, so that the
nose gear leg can rotate noticeably.
In order to enlarge the receptor and the gear leg hole to the next size bolt
he would have to remove the engine and the engine mount. Not a good
solution.
I suggested spot welding the nose gear leg to the mount...that could be done
without removing the engine.
Question: has any other Rv with a nose gear run into this problem, and if
so, what solution was found that makes sense?
I told our visitor I would poll the list to see if there was a solution out
there. Van
's people didn't have much to offer when he called them, tho' he was told
one of Van's folks with a nose dragger did weld his when this same problem
arose.
Any help would be relayed to our Texas friend, and appreciated.
John Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Cartwright" <ccart(at)stanford.edu> |
| Subject: | constant speed vs. fixed |
Van's lists the following perfomance specs for the RV-7 with 180 hp @ gross
weight.
200 mph(75%@8000), Take off 575 feet, Climb 1650 ft/min.
I assume a fixed pitch cruise prop would obtain a similar cruise speed.
How much would that prop loose in take off and climb performance to a
constant speed.
(5%, 10 %, 50%)?
Thanks,
Chris
Menlo Park,CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Nose Gear Leg |
Isn't the gear leg heat treated? ANY localized welding will produce a
stress point.
It might be better to wick in some Red loctite around the gear leg and
socket, and pack JB weld around the bolt when it is correctly aligned.
With that said, I sold an AN386-3 to a builder in England to fix his
elongated hole. You have to get a B&S taper reamer but it takes all the
play out.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2001 12:24 PM Subject: RV-List: RV6A Nose Gear Leg
A fellow RV'er from Texas who is spending the summer here in the mountains
brought his RV6A along. He reports that the bolt that connects through the
"tube" on the engine mount and passes through the upper part of the inserted
gear leg is causing a problem. It seems the hole in the engine mount
"socket" that accepts the gear leg has been elongated laterally, so that the
nose gear leg can rotate noticeably.
In order to enlarge the receptor and the gear leg hole to the next size bolt
he would have to remove the engine and the engine mount. Not a good
solution.
I suggested spot welding the nose gear leg to the mount...that could be done
without removing the engine.
Question: has any other Rv with a nose gear run into this problem, and if
so, what solution was found that makes sense?
I told our visitor I would poll the list to see if there was a solution out
there. Van
's people didn't have much to offer when he called them, tho' he was told
one of Van's folks with a nose dragger did weld his when this same problem
arose.
Any help would be relayed to our Texas friend, and appreciated.
John Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Started/corrosion protection |
Music to a pilot's ears, Charles.
BTW, that lithium grease comes in spray can and can be used to prep the
cylinders if the engine is going to sit a month or longer. This is
hearsay, but the A&P/IA that I go to with my technical questions says
the lithium product "sticks" to the cylinder walls better than products
like "Corrosion X".
Boyd (these products cannot, in any way, be considered to be a primer)
Charles Rowbotham wrote:
>
>
> Dave and I started our Air-Tec IO-360 for the first time on the 3rd and have
> run it 4 additional times.
>
> We rec'd the engine in late May, 1999. Dick Waters (Air-Tec) had filled the
> cyl with white Litium grease and we added about 10 qts of oil for the
> storage time. Dick asked us to call him prior to starting which we did. He
> and Dennis briefed us, said they were available if we had any problems and
> faxed us their engine pre-start check list.
>
> We drained the oil and bleed the oil lines and did a pre-run inspection. We
> pressurized the fuel system for the first time and no leaks - The QB fuel
> tanks looked great and didn't leak. The engine start went as expected, on
> the second blade it caught and after a couple of puffs of white smoke, we
> found it was running very rich. Our fault - we had reversed the mixture arm.
> We corrected it and it starts and runs well.
>
> We had a couple of oil leaks: around the governor, oil filter and one one of
> the oil lines. All corrected and no oil leaks on the fifth run.
>
> All our CHT temps are at 150 C and our EGTs are at approx 750 C with the
> exception of #2 which is running at 550 C. We will be check for a cold air
> leak this afternoon.
>
> Good Building,
>
> Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
> RV-8A (clearing punch list items)
> Niantic, CT (Westerly RI airport)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: constant speed vs. fixed |
That's a tough question without more info on the FP prop, such as where
the max pitch of the blade is along the radius of the prop blade. This
is usually defined as the propeller activity factor and is needed to
calculate thrust. Vx is largely dependent on excess thrust and Vy on
excess horsepower.
A rough estimation from an aerodynamics text using "generic" C/S and F/P
props shows that at a take-off speed of 55-60 mph (good for the RV) a
F/P prop produces 80-81% the thrust of C/S prop.
Boyd "slide rule" Braem
Chris Cartwright wrote:
>
>
> Van's lists the following perfomance specs for the RV-7 with 180 hp @ gross
> weight.
> 200 mph(75%@8000), Take off 575 feet, Climb 1650 ft/min.
>
> I assume a fixed pitch cruise prop would obtain a similar cruise speed.
> How much would that prop loose in take off and climb performance to a
> constant speed.
> (5%, 10 %, 50%)?
> Thanks,
> Chris
> Menlo Park,CA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: constant speed vs. fixed - 2 |
Note that the preceeding note on CS v FP is based on a high speed cruise
prop that equals the speed of of a CS prop at 200 mph.
Boyd
Chris Cartwright wrote:
>
>
> Van's lists the following perfomance specs for the RV-7 with 180 hp @ gross
> weight.
> 200 mph(75%@8000), Take off 575 feet, Climb 1650 ft/min.
>
> I assume a fixed pitch cruise prop would obtain a similar cruise speed.
> How much would that prop loose in take off and climb performance to a
> constant speed.
> (5%, 10 %, 50%)?
> Thanks,
> Chris
> Menlo Park,CA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Rubbing out polyurethane |
Hey paint gurus, what is the best technique for rubbing out poly? Does that
generic polishing compound found at car parts stores work, or is there
something better? Do it by hand or machine? Do you wet sand with 600 grit
first?
Kevin -9A
Getting spiffed up for Arlington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Priming fuel tank |
Todd
I'd like to point out the Boeing and BAe are building aircraft which use Jet
A, as opposed to the 87LL/100LL used in RVs. I guess it all depends on the
solvent you are going to store in the fuel tanks.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A fuselage
Boca Raton, Fl.
>
> FYI, BAe and Boeing prime all components in their wings -- several of you
> use the same primer Dupont something or other that BAe does (I looked into
> this at one point). I did not prime my tanks because I am a wus. I think
> priming is okay providing you know what you are doing and have good primer
> and surface prep. I just did want to screw up so I punted and followed RV
> conventional wisdom. Also, they put an orangish/pinkish substance down
> before sealing the stringers, this stuff has a HAZMAT sheet as long as your
> arm, so I doubt priming tanks and getting the knowledge to do it correctly
> outweighs the benefits.
>
> > Wow, this is nuts. I can't believe that if you put gas in a tank for
> twenty
> > years that ALL the primer will stay on, I don't care what the brochure
> > says.
________________________________________________________________________________
Anyone have a list of the hoses they used from Earls for an O-360 A1A? Also
anyone who ran the hoses from the fuel selector to the wings instead of the
aluminum tubing?
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, N.C. N910LL (res)
Hooking up systems
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Nose Gear Leg |
Thanks for asking the list about this John. As a metallurgist, failure
analysis specialist and AWS certified welding inspector I can suggest that
he tries other solutions then welding. Without doing the calculations or
remembering the material and heat treat it's hard to know if he would be
endangering himself by welding on the gear leg. If I knew that someone had
done any welding on the gear leg of a plane though I would not fly it,
period. I've investigated a lot of fatalities that were caused by just such
a weld. A little tack weld often can be much more dangerous then a large
weld because of the possible localized large change in strength and hardness
to the material.
It could possibly be safe to weld on one of Van's gear legs, but only if
you used the proper materials, processes, normalizing and heat treat
afterwards... And when you have a bending member like this gear leg even
that might not insure reliable service.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2001 10:24 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV6A Nose Gear Leg
>
> A fellow RV'er from Texas who is spending the summer here in the mountains
> brought his RV6A along. He reports that the bolt that connects through
the
> "tube" on the engine mount and passes through the upper part of the
inserted
> gear leg is causing a problem. It seems the hole in the engine mount
> "socket" that accepts the gear leg has been elongated laterally, so that
the
> nose gear leg can rotate noticeably.
>
> In order to enlarge the receptor and the gear leg hole to the next size
bolt
> he would have to remove the engine and the engine mount. Not a good
> solution.
>
> I suggested spot welding the nose gear leg to the mount...that could be
done
> without removing the engine.
>
> Question: has any other Rv with a nose gear run into this problem, and if
> so, what solution was found that makes sense?
>
> I told our visitor I would poll the list to see if there was a solution
out
> there. Van
> 's people didn't have much to offer when he called them, tho' he was told
> one of Van's folks with a nose dragger did weld his when this same problem
> arose.
>
> Any help would be relayed to our Texas friend, and appreciated.
> John Salida, CO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rubbing out polyurethane |
In a message dated 7/9/01 1:19:39 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Im7shannon(at)aol.com writes:
> Hey paint gurus, what is the best technique for rubbing out poly? Does that
> generic polishing compound found at car parts stores work, or is there
> something better? Do it by hand or machine? Do you wet sand with 600 grit
> first?
> Kevin -9A
> Getting spiffed up for Arlington
>
>
>
I tried to do it myself but could not achieve the result I wanted, I had a
hot rod pro polish my plane, but I watched him for three days and this is
what he did,
first he wet sanded with 2000-2500 grit using back and forth motion only (no
swirl sanding) he also used a spray bottle full of water to keep the area he
was sanding wet. I asked him why 2000 grit and he said to buff out any thing
more course would polish out. Then he used wool buffing pads, about 80 all
total for my plane, when you are cutting and polishing the pad will work for
awhile, when it starts to drag put on an another one. (you can wash these
pads) and the polish he used cost him about 300+ dollars per gallon, but the
trick is a non abrasive polish using a wool pad, this seemed to do the job.
After the paint was cut & buffed he came back with a fine foam pad using a
glazing compound for the polish. Result was a finish that was so wet looking
it appeared to have been dipped in hot peanut oil. It made my so-so paint job
look great.
Good luck.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Earl's Hoses |
There really isn't a list you can go off of, because
of varying types of installation, equipment location,
etc. I used Earl's hoses and fittings throughout the
entire airplane. From the fuel selector to the wings
and all. The only real way to do it is to sit down
with an Earls catalog, and figure out what sizes of
fittings, and length of hose. For the fittings, you
need to figure it out. For the hose, I used the
following hose:
Fuel: Perform-O-Flex #6
Oil: Peform-O-Flex #8
Brakes: Speed Seal #4
Speed seal is the teflon lined, high pressure hose,
and requires special ends. The Perform O Flex has
it's own series of ends as well.
WM Engineering ( http://www.coredcs.com/~wmeng/ )will
send you a catalog of Earls products and price list.
If you do your entire airplane, plan on $700-$800 in
hoses and fittings. Not cheap, but looks good, and is
easier to install, and is not subject to cracking from
vibration.
====
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Getting Close
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV6A Nose Gear Leg |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: RV6A Nose Gear Leg
Thread-Index: AcEIoFQ2BvnlXUeMTOm1QRj1Yn6qSQAIrRYw
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Funny this subject has come up--one of my friends has a similar problem
with his gearlegs on his HR2 that we were trying to figure out last
week. He didn't want to remove the engine to drill to the next bolt
size.
After knocking the idea back and forth between several of us, we came to
the consensus that the probable best fix would be to use a short reamer
and ream the hole with progressively larger sizes until the elongated
hole was a regular hole again. A bolt would need to be custom-made at a
machine shop that was .002 undersize to the final reamer size (like a
NAS close tolerance bolt)...theoretically that should take care of the
problem, provided you have room to get the reamer in.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John [mailto:fasching(at)amigo.net]
> Sent: Monday, July 09, 2001 12:25 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV6A Nose Gear Leg
>
>
>
> A fellow RV'er from Texas who is spending the summer here in
> the mountains
> brought his RV6A along. He reports that the bolt that
> connects through the
> "tube" on the engine mount and passes through the upper part
> of the inserted
> gear leg is causing a problem. It seems the hole in the engine mount
> "socket" that accepts the gear leg has been elongated
> laterally, so that the
> nose gear leg can rotate noticeably.
>
> In order to enlarge the receptor and the gear leg hole to the
> next size bolt
> he would have to remove the engine and the engine mount. Not a good
> solution.
>
> I suggested spot welding the nose gear leg to the
> mount...that could be done
> without removing the engine.
>
> Question: has any other Rv with a nose gear run into this
> problem, and if
> so, what solution was found that makes sense?
>
> I told our visitor I would poll the list to see if there was
> a solution out
> there. Van
> 's people didn't have much to offer when he called them, tho'
> he was told
> one of Van's folks with a nose dragger did weld his when this
> same problem
> arose.
>
> Any help would be relayed to our Texas friend, and appreciated.
> John Salida, CO
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing on a carrier..more ramblings |
hi eric,
we've talked before...were you Marine or navy?
mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | efortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: What's wrong with this picture? |
Man I hate guy's that build airplanes that look like that. The only
thing I see wrong
with it is that it is not my bird.
Earl RV4
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> http://dkoelzer.murkworks.com/snf01/rval.jpg
>
> Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8VD
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | RV-9A Floor boards |
Now that I'm putting the forward fuse together, I can see that under our
feet will be nothing but the lower skin between us and the exhaust as well
as hot or cold outside air. The stiffener flange is 3/4" high. I was
thinking this might be a good place for a little insulation as well as
something other than the bottom skin to park ones heels on. Kevin Shannon:
may I ask what you did in this area?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
Working on fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Floor boards |
Go to your local camping store (popular has it) and
get the green Coleman sleeping bag mat (2 of them) It
is a 1/4" foam. Cut to fit between the stiffners and
put in 2 layers that are bonded with spray adhesive.
This is the way Becki Orndorff recommends for her
carpet. After you add carpet, you have a soft,
insulated, and flat floor.
====
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Getting Close
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rubbing out polyurethane |
Here ya go:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/paint3.html
Please do not use 600 grit on your paint unless you have major problems
to repair!
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
==================
Im7shannon(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Hey paint gurus, what is the best technique for rubbing out poly? Does that
> generic polishing compound found at car parts stores work, or is there
> something better? Do it by hand or machine? Do you wet sand with 600 grit
> first?
> Kevin -9A
> Getting spiffed up for Arlington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Nose Gear Leg |
In a message dated 7/9/01 1:27:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
fasching(at)amigo.net writes:
> A fellow RV'er from Texas who is spending the summer here in the mountains
> brought his RV6A along. He reports that the bolt that connects through the
> "tube" on the engine mount and passes through the upper part of the inserted
> gear leg is causing a problem. It seems the hole in the engine mount
> "socket" that accepts the gear leg has been elongated laterally, so that the
> nose gear leg can rotate noticeably.
>
I'd swear that there was a recent article in the RVator that covered this
exact topic. If I remember correctly, the builder reamed the hole for a
tapered pin.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Tip up canopy gap solution |
Recently, there was discussion about the canopy skin
and foward fuse skin binding,and bending the canopy
skin down, and frankly, is VERY hard to make it look
good. The gap on mine is perfect on the sides and
about 1/4" back in the middle. Not to mention, I am
part of the "bent canopy skin club" according to Scott
in Tampa :-) Here is a solution that only took a few
hours of work, and looks very, very good.
Cover the forward fuselage skin with wax paper, and
have it go under the canopy skin. Close the canopy on
the wax paper. It is very important to have the wax
paper fit perfectly flat on the forward skin. Put a
layer of 2" fiberglass on the canopy skin extending
below the longerons, with just enough material to
extend onto the forward skin. I made it split the aft
rivet line (only about 1/4" on the forward skin) Get
it real tight and straight along that rivet line and
tape each side to the fuselage past the bottom edge of
the canopy. Wet that layer and add two more in the
exact same spot. Let cure, and open very carefully (2
people) and see where it binds. Mark and trim, mark
and trim, until you can open the canopy all the way.
When you close it, you will have a perfectly
conforming forward canopy skin, with a little added
protection against wind and water. It might not hurt
to put a little UHMW tape on the underside of the new
fairing to protect the paint that it sits on. Then
just fill and blend into the canopy skin. I will post
pictures on my website after first flight.
====
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Getting Close
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Who say's..... |
So Bill, what is your critical mach number??
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2001 8:56 AM
Subject: RV-List: Who say's.....
>
> .....military pilots get to have ALL the fun?!
>
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/images/rv8aboom.jpg
>
> -Bill VonDane
> Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A - N8VD
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
> mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
>
> Thanks Andy...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
Either my ailerons are 1/2 inch too short, or I am losing my mind.
Maybe both.
The outer mount on the 6/6A aileron is fixed in place on the end rib,
with about 1/4 inch play side to side (without spacers.) When the
inboard mount is placed in the right spot (56 1/2 from the root rib) the
aileron refuses to mount on the wing like the drawing. The inboard
mount sits smack in the middle of the inboard bracket, not with the
9/16" spacer to the inboard side, as per the plans. Moving the inboard
bracket to suit causes it to move to far from the 425 stub rib, which
shares it's rivets. This is equally true on both wings, so wherever I
messed up, at least I was consistant.
Questions:
1. Will the aileron pushrod have enough room without rubbing against
the inboard bracket, as described above?
2. Any problem with moving the bracket such that the rivets which
attach it to the spar are just outboard of the 425 flange?
3. Would someone with mounted ailerons please measure for me the gap
between the inner edge of the aileron and the outer edge of the bottom
skin, where the skin is cut out for the aileron (looks to me like it
should be about 1/4 ", if that is right, at least I did something
right.)
4. Am I the first one to have this problem?
Thanks as always
Jeff Point
-6 wings
Milwaukee WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Sheehan <ctsheehan(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Priming fuel tank |
I wonder if:
1) we can hope to have surface prep and application technique even close
to what the pros can do in their factories?
2) Boeing, BAe and Found are using alclad?
Seriously, I got a tip a week ago from an old timer - he suggested
priming the outside of the back baffle and front of the spar to protect
against corrosion due to condensation... Sounds like a good idea to
me...
Chris Sheehan
(sealing 1st UNPRIMED RV-6 tank)
Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
>
> Todd
> I'd like to point out the Boeing and BAe are building aircraft which use Jet
> A, as opposed to the 87LL/100LL used in RVs. I guess it all depends on the
> solvent you are going to store in the fuel tanks.
> Charlie Kuss
> RV-8A fuselage
> Boca Raton, Fl.
>
> >
> > FYI, BAe and Boeing prime all components in their wings -- several of you
> > use the same primer Dupont something or other that BAe does (I looked into
> > this at one point). I did not prime my tanks because I am a wus. I think
> > priming is okay providing you know what you are doing and have good primer
> > and surface prep. I just did want to screw up so I punted and followed RV
> > conventional wisdom. Also, they put an orangish/pinkish substance down
> > before sealing the stringers, this stuff has a HAZMAT sheet as long as your
> > arm, so I doubt priming tanks and getting the knowledge to do it correctly
> > outweighs the benefits.
> >
> > > Wow, this is nuts. I can't believe that if you put gas in a tank for
> > twenty
> > > years that ALL the primer will stay on, I don't care what the brochure
> > > says.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Nose Gear Leg |
In a message dated 07/09/2001 4:48:37 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
KBoatri144(at)aol.com writes:
<< I'd swear that there was a recent article in the RVator that covered this
exact topic. If I remember correctly, the builder reamed the hole for a
tapered pin. >>
Folks
Kyle may be right about that article. However, since I have not gotten that
far, it would be wonderful to get at the root of the problem and find out
what to do to keep this from occuring.(besides a wheel in the back) Does
anyone understand exactly what is happening and how to stop it??
Thanks
Jim Nice
6AWings
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Priming fuel tank |
The outside of the rear baffle should be primed as you suggested.
At Found they are NOT using alclad for fuel tank components. Many of the
problems you hear about with sloshing might be contributed to builders
sloshing in an alclad tank. The slosh doesn't stick well to alclad, hence
coming off sooner or later. Found also sloshed the tanks on the prototype
(without alclad) but they were not happy with the result and instead
alodined and sprayed with 2-part epoxy. I believe it was Super Koropon PRC
by deSoto (mil spec'ed). I bought some myself for interior priming and
DeHavilland had a few barrels on order at the same time as I was wating for
my gallon... I paid $144 for one gallon. I was told by PRC that not only the
Dash-8's but the space shuttle was built with exactly same primer for
interior parts. (I know, don't they use everything in the space shuttle?!?)
:) I take this with a big grain of salt - could be a typical marketing
effort. Usually PRC has an equivalent product in the U.S. with a different
name. Ww do for instance have ProSeal here in Canada but it's also made by
PRC and not called ProSeal at all.
The chief engineer could not emphasize enough though how important it was to
not prime at all unless you were absolutely sure of what you were doing.
So... I did not prime.
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chris Sheehan
Sent: July 9, 2001 10:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Priming fuel tank
I wonder if:
1) we can hope to have surface prep and application technique even close
to what the pros can do in their factories?
2) Boeing, BAe and Found are using alclad?
Seriously, I got a tip a week ago from an old timer - he suggested
priming the outside of the back baffle and front of the spar to protect
against corrosion due to condensation... Sounds like a good idea to
me...
Chris Sheehan
(sealing 1st UNPRIMED RV-6 tank)
Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
>
> Todd
> I'd like to point out the Boeing and BAe are building aircraft which use
Jet
> A, as opposed to the 87LL/100LL used in RVs. I guess it all depends on the
> solvent you are going to store in the fuel tanks.
> Charlie Kuss
> RV-8A fuselage
> Boca Raton, Fl.
>
> >
> > FYI, BAe and Boeing prime all components in their wings -- several of
you
> > use the same primer Dupont something or other that BAe does (I looked
into
> > this at one point). I did not prime my tanks because I am a wus. I
think
> > priming is okay providing you know what you are doing and have good
primer
> > and surface prep. I just did want to screw up so I punted and followed
RV
> > conventional wisdom. Also, they put an orangish/pinkish substance down
> > before sealing the stringers, this stuff has a HAZMAT sheet as long as
your
> > arm, so I doubt priming tanks and getting the knowledge to do it
correctly
> > outweighs the benefits.
> >
> > > Wow, this is nuts. I can't believe that if you put gas in a tank for
> > twenty
> > > years that ALL the primer will stay on, I don't care what the brochure
> > > says.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fwd: Oshkosh Camping Options |
Listers, here is the EAA's response to a question I submitted regarding
camping at Oshkosh this year. I'm still undecided on putting the bird on the
show line, or in showplane camping... I'd love to see it front and center
(vanity, you know), but am afraid of walking away for a few minutes and
returning to find my airplane being used as a jungle gym.
Decisions, decisions. Kinda like "Slider vs Tipup"... There is no best answer.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
From: Charlie Becker <cbecker(at)eaa.org>
Subject: RE: Oshkosh Camping Options
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 17:36:25 -0500
Kyle,
Congratulations on the RV!
1) For the first time ever, five rows, starting at taxiway P-4, within
Showplane Camping will be designated for homebuilts only. In previous years,
those who camped with their homebuilts found themselves intermixed with all
other "showplanes" (antiques, classics, etc.). This year, the Homebuilt
Aircraft Council is going to "test-fly" a program where, on a first-come,
first-served basis, homebuilt campers will be parked together in a
designated area.
No special action by the pilot is necessary in order to take advantage of
this opportunity. Just follow the instructions in the NOTAM
<http://www.airventure.org/2001/news/NOTAM2001.html> for showplane camping,
and the flaggers to the homebuilt camping area will direct you to the
appropriate area.
I suggest putting a sign in your window stating "Showplane Camping". This
isn't real clear in the NOTAM but it will be corrected for 2002.
Your other option is to simply park in the Homebuilt area and camp in Camp
Schoeller. We have 3 Welcome Wagons devoted exclusively to moving homebuilt
pilots and gear to the campground and back.
2). If you want to be judged, just let them know when you register. It does
not matter where you parked. In the showplane camping area, the walking
traffic isn't too heavy. It is quite a bit heavier in the main section of
homebuilt parking by Homebuilders Headquarters and lightens as you move
North and West. If you park in the homebuilt parking section, the RV
aircraft tend to be parked in a relatively low traffic area.
Charlie Becker
EAA Aviation Information Services
Ph: 920-426-6530
Fx: 920-426-6560
-----Original Message-----
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com [mailto:KBoatri144(at)aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2001 9:21 PM
Subject: Oshkosh Camping Options
Please explain my display and camping options for the big show...
I just finished my RV-6 and plan on camping on the airfield.
1) If I park on the showplanes line, where can I camp?
2) If I park in showplane camping, will my aircraft be judged? Also, how
heavy is the walk-through traffic in these areas?
Thanks,
Kyle Boatright
Kyle,
Congratulations on the RV!
1) For the first time ever, five rows,
starting at taxiway P-4, within Showplane Camping will be designated for
homebuilts only. In previous years, those who camped with their homebuilts found
themselves intermixed with all other showplanes (antiques, classics, etc.).
This year, the Homebuilt Aircraft Council is going to test-fly a program
where, on a first-come, first-served basis, homebuilt campers will be parked
together in a designated area.
No special action by the pilot is
necessary in order to take advantage of this opportunity. Just follow the
instructions in the NOTAM for
showplane camping, and the flaggers to the homebuilt camping area will direct
you to the appropriate area.
I
suggest puttinga sign in your window stating "Showplane Camping".
This isn't
real clear in the NOTAM but it will be corrected for
2002.
Your
other option is to simply park in the Homebuilt area and camp in Camp
Schoeller. We have 3 Welcome Wagons devoted exclusively to moving
homebuilt pilots and gear to the campground and back.
2). If you want to be judged, just let them know when
you register. It does not matter where you parked. In the showplane
camping area, the walking traffic isn't too heavy. It is quite a bit
heavier in the main section of homebuilt parking by Homebuilders Headquarters
and lightens as you move North and West. If you park in the homebuilt
parking section, the RV aircraft tend to be parked in a relatively low traffic
area.
Charlie
Becker
EAA Aviation Information
Services
Ph: 920-426-6530
Fx: 920-426-6560
-----Original Message-----
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
[mailto:KBoatri144(at)aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2001 9:21
PM
To: webmaster(at)eaa.org
Subject: Oshkosh Camping
Options
Please
explain my display and camping options for the big show...
I just
finished my RV-6 and plan on camping on the airfield.
1) If I
park on the showplanes line, where can I camp?
2) If I park in
showplane camping, will my aircraft be judged? Also, how
heavy is
the walk-through traffic in these areas?
Thanks,
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: help paint gods!! |
Well I really did it now. I decided to change the color of the wingtips, so I
took them off, sanded thoroughly with 220, and sprayed new color on without
priming. (note, wingtips were painted last summer) Now I have several spots
"fisheying"
What to do now? prime over it and try again? apply another coat? Get some
therapy?
Kevin
swearing has diminished, but running out of beer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6A tip-up inst. panel |
I just cut out my instrument panel (F603) for my tip-up RV-6A and am
trying to figure out if I made a mistake. I tried searching the
archives but couldn't find anything applicable. (Must be in there
somewhere.)
I followed drawing 35 precisely. That gives the height of the top edge
of the panel at 1 inch intervals out from the center. To be
conservative, I cut the notches at the side of the panel 1/8" smaller
all around and was surprised that the first time it still fit over the
621-a canopy deck at the sides. I guess you don't want a real tight fit
there, but I now don't have much to work with (i.e. file away) to shape
the notches. This may be a cosmetic problem.
A straight edge laid across the firewall and the F668 subpanel on the
center line comes out about 3/16" above the panel. The drawing shows
1/4". If you slide the straight edge outboard, the gap between it and
the panel increases. It's about double at the edge. Is this too big,
too small, or merely going to look ugly when I'm sitting in the plane?
--
Tom Sargent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron mounts |
I would put the aileron bracket where it is supposed
to be. I imagine that the rib is part of the
structure there. My spacing actually came out
opposite of the plans. I have seen it all of the
place. In the middle, on the outboard, on the
inboard, etc. In other words, that spacer is a
variable for the builder to adjust. I wouldn't adjust
the fixed parts, like the bracket.
====
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Getting Close
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Floor boards |
In a message dated 7/9/01 4:13:53 PM, albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
>Now that I'm putting the forward fuse together, I can see that under our
>feet will be nothing but the lower skin between us and the exhaust as well
>as hot or cold outside air. The stiffener flange is 3/4" high. I was
>thinking this might be a good place for a little insulation as well as
>something other than the bottom skin to park ones heels on. Kevin Shannon:
>may I ask what you did in this area?
>Albert Gardner
>Yuma, AZ
>RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
>Working on fuse
Al, I went to an auto upholstery shop, they had a carpet pad they use on real
cushy expensive jobs that is just thick enough (3/4) and makes a good sound
deadening too. I didnt write down the name of it, they just sold me some
scraps for $7
Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A tip-up inst. panel |
Don't sweat it. Mine doesn't follow the same gap, but
when the canopy is closed, the alluminum tube covers
some of that gap, and frankly you can't see past
there, because it is dark. If you had it too close,
variables in that wonderful consistently symmetrical
canopy frame that Van's provides (sarcasm here) would
probably end up hitting somewhere.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: help paint gods!! |
Probably not what you want to hear, but I bet you have
some compatibility issues. Or, you may try color
sanding the offending areas(with a block to keep
things level) and paint over it all again, with a
wetsand between coats to even it out.
If all else fails, have another beer or two, sand it
all off, prime it, and paint.
====
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Getting Close
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Floor boards |
Keven
Did you fireproof the carpet before you put it in? If its a nylon combination
be
aware that it will melt should it catch on fire. Not good for the feet if you
know what I mean.
Something to think about
Tom\RV3
Im7shannon(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 7/9/01 4:13:53 PM, albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
>
> >Now that I'm putting the forward fuse together, I can see that under our
> >feet will be nothing but the lower skin between us and the exhaust as well
> >as hot or cold outside air. The stiffener flange is 3/4" high. I was
> >thinking this might be a good place for a little insulation as well as
> >something other than the bottom skin to park ones heels on. Kevin Shannon:
> >may I ask what you did in this area?
> >Albert Gardner
> >Yuma, AZ
> >RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
> >Working on fuse
> Al, I went to an auto upholstery shop, they had a carpet pad they use on real
> cushy expensive jobs that is just thick enough (3/4) and makes a good sound
> deadening too. I didnt write down the name of it, they just sold me some
> scraps for $7
> Kevin
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Floor boards |
In a message dated 7/10/01 12:00:45 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net writes:
> Keven
> Did you fireproof the carpet before you put it in? If its a nylon
> combination be
> aware that it will melt should it catch on fire. Not good for the feet if
> you
> know what I mean.
> Something to think about
> Tom\RV3
>
Wool is the only commonly used carpet fiber that is superior to nylon
regarding fire resistance. Nylon has better fire resistant properties than
any of the other manmade fibers used in carpet construction. If fire is a
real concern, go with a wool carpet, or next best, go with a commercial grade
nylon carpet that has a "Class 1" fire rating. FYI, polypropylene carpet is
inexpensive, stain proof, and burns much more easily than nylon or wool. It
is not appropriate for our application.
Disclaimer... I have no idea how "FAA certified" carpet is made, or how it
compares from a fire resistance standpoint to more common commercially
available products. On the other hand, I am fairly knowledgeable regarding
manufacturing and specifying carpet...
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | deltaB(at)erols.com |
| Subject: | Re: What's wrong with this picture? |
So how does the cowl come off? The caption mention "no cowl
lines"
Bernie C.
"Jim Norman, MD" wrote:
>
>
> Sorry, but the thin sheet aluminum on this plane is NOT inlaid. It is
> "stuck" on with glue and an occasional rivet. It is very nice, but it is NOT
> inlaid. The previous post was correct.
>
> jim
> Tampa
> (lived at Sun'N'Fun).
>
>
>
> http://dkoelzer.murkworks.com/snf01/rval.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cheapskate Rivet Cutter |
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
I've probably entered a whole new era in the history of cheapskates, but
I've just cut some rivets quite nicely without spending a dime.
I used a piece of 1.25" steel flat bar, left over from when I made my
home-made fluting pliers (http://www.vansairforce.org/tools). I drilled a
hole in the bar the correct size for the rivets I wanted to cut, and clamped
the bar in my vise. I then positioned a rivet so that it projected through
the hole the correct amount, placed the tip of a sharp, 1" wood chisel on
the side of the rivet, and cleaved through it with a blow from a dead-blow
hammer. Then I cleaned up the end with a light kiss from a Scotchbrite
wheel.
Okay, it's a lot more trouble than a proper rivet cutter. But it was free,
and I didn't have to go to the store or wait for a mail order. Oh, by the
way, there was no perceptible damage to the chisel.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Murphy <jgmurphy(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Folks
Whilst making the F-605 Bulkhead with my brain at half mast I trimmed
the F-605C straps to their 12 1/2 inch length by cutting material off
the inbd end, so the 2.0" length of the outbd flat area is 2 1/4 'not
2.0" per the drawings. This results in the two "kinks" being 0.25"
further inbd than they should be. So guess I had better make some new
ones. Mind youthis keeps my outbd 3/16 dia bolt hole some 7/16" from the
outbd kink, which I like structurally.
But before I do, has anybody else made this booboo and gone ahead and
fitted them anyway?? The immediate consequence is insufficient flat
space for the outbd seat belt fittings, but I believe there is a
potential way around that. Seems to me that the 3/16 bolts attaching the
seat belt fittings should be as close together as prtacticable, that way
bending stresses in the fitting flanges are minimised under load. I
propose them at 1.0 inch apart, i.e. 0.5" either side of C/L (I am
assuming an 1/8" gap between fittings).
I have checked that at this pitch that there is sufficient room on the
flange for the bolt head to not foul the radius, and enable a socket to
fit.
This in turn means that the flanges can be trimmed by at least 3/16" per
side, bringing the total assembled flange width down to approx 1.875,
which JUST fits. The geometry is tricky due to the kink not being truly
vertical so the top outer corner is the worst foul point.
I can then fit my seat belt fittings on the available flat space, and
have room for an AN42-AD4 rivet just before the kink. I can do this
maintaining min fastener pitch of 4* mean dia pitch i.e. 5/8" between
the 3/16 bolt and 1/8" rivet.
This also ensures that the seat belt fitting outer bolt and the adjacent
rivet clear the flange on the F-605D Channel.
I suspect that the best solution is a compromise of all the above
dimensions, making new F-605C Bars.
Questions;
1. Has anybody installed the F-605C Bars after cutting them wrong like
me, and how did it work out ?
2. What spacing are listers using for the seat belt fitting attachent
bolts?
For those of you wondering why i am building fuselage components at this
stage, it is 'cause I cant fit any wing or fuselage jigs in my current
wshop, so i am making as many subasssys as possible. The wshop gets
extended later this year after her dishwasher and another 300 Olive
trees...
Looking fwd to your responses
Graham Murphy
RV-6A bits & pieces
Frosty but sunny Blenheim.
New Zealand.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: help paint gods!! |
I'm far from a paint god, but in my limited experience (ok, not SO limited)
I would suggest that you painted too quickly after wiping with solvent, or
used lacquer thinner instead of a proper solvent, or god forbid switched
brands mid stream (never never never). True paint gods feel free to
correct me, but priming is not necessary if there is paint already applied.
The primer is simply a bonding coat between the paint and the metal...if
that is already there the paint should adhere to the last coat of paint with
no troubles.
Maybe you left a handprint on the old paint and didn't wipe thoroughly
enough? Wet sand smooth again and shoot it over. OR, just wet sand and
polish it out if the defects aren't too bad.
Advice worth what you paid for it.
Bill
-4 wings
----- Original Message -----
From: <Im7shannon(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2001 11:38 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: help paint gods!!
>
> Well I really did it now. I decided to change the color of the wingtips,
so I
> took them off, sanded thoroughly with 220, and sprayed new color on
without
> priming. (note, wingtips were painted last summer) Now I have several
spots
> "fisheying"
> What to do now? prime over it and try again? apply another coat? Get some
> therapy?
> Kevin
> swearing has diminished, but running out of beer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVilla <jodyvilla(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re; What to do..... |
I would like to thank everyone who responded for my plea for help with the
building or the lack of, of my RV8. I have been reading this list for about
two years now and it never fails to amaze me how when someone is in a pinch
this group comes forward to help. I hope that I can repay the favor in some
way some day.
Right now I have to sort through all my options and all the suggestions of
help and offers to buy. I won't be able to respond to each person
personally right now but would like to give all of you a big THANK YOU for
your help.
Jody Villa
half built, and abandoned RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A tip-up inst. panel |
Tom
if i understand your post correctly, your panel is sitting a little lower
than the subpanel? if so you have nothing to worry about. the tip up canopy
frame has an aluminum bar that will be in front of the top edge of the panel
when closed. most people fill the canopy frame with foam and glass to stiffen
the assembley which adds about 1/2 inch to the skin thickness and it will lay
right on top of the panel, and with the aluminum bar in front of the panel,
you will never see any mis matched parts. i don't know if i'm making myself
clear on paper, but it is clear in my mind.
if i'm not clear enough, contact me and i'll describe it better,
scott
tampa rv6a tipper final wiring
813-932-3995 work, 813-927-1651 cell 8130871-9050 home
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: help paint gods!! |
that has happened to me..thought I was doing something wrong..turned out the jet
fuel used at the airport was in the air (unburnt) from a jet taking off..had to
re-sand, and re-paint, but used smoothie this time...no more fish
eyes...press-on!
Im7shannon(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Well I really did it now. I decided to change the color of the wingtips, so I
> took them off, sanded thoroughly with 220, and sprayed new color on without
> priming. (note, wingtips were painted last summer) Now I have several spots
> "fisheying"
> What to do now? prime over it and try again? apply another coat? Get some
> therapy?
> Kevin
> swearing has diminished, but running out of beer
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: help paint gods!! |
You need to go to a good automotive paint supply store. They sell fish-eye
eliminator and there is a prep wipe down to make sure you have the surface
clean of contaminates before you spray.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "old ogre" <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2001 8:09 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: help paint gods!!
that has happened to me..thought I was doing something wrong..turned out the
jet
fuel used at the airport was in the air (unburnt) from a jet taking off..had
to
re-sand, and re-paint, but used smoothie this time...no more fish
eyes...press-on!
Im7shannon(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Well I really did it now. I decided to change the color of the wingtips,
so I
> took them off, sanded thoroughly with 220, and sprayed new color on
without
> priming. (note, wingtips were painted last summer) Now I have several
spots
> "fisheying"
> What to do now? prime over it and try again? apply another coat? Get some
> therapy?
> Kevin
> swearing has diminished, but running out of beer
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-9A Floor boards |
We now offer a 3/4" mat that is fire retardant and impervious to oil,
fuel, etc. to fill in the stiffeners in the forward floor of the side-by-side
models. It is $45.50 plus shipping. We used to recommend camping mats, but
feel this is a better product. Please let us know if we can help you.
Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: help paint gods!! |
Smoothie? whats a smoothie?
>
> that has happened to me..thought I was doing something wrong..turned out
the
> jet
> fuel used at the airport was in the air (unburnt) from a jet taking
off..had
> to
> re-sand, and re-paint, but used smoothie this time...no more fish
> eyes...press-on!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | what's wrong with this picture |
You guys are killing me. How'd he do this? I WANT DETAILS!!!!! :-)
I'd like to do part of my HRII cowl this way to mesh with the military
scheme I've tentatively picked out. How'd he hide the edge where the
aluminum meets the fiberglass?
%
$#$ I was at SnF, but I missed this one. I sure wish I'd seen it. Who's
bird is it?
Vince in Indiana
HRII sloooooooow build
http://dkoelzer.murkworks.com/snf01/rval.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Floor boards |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
10:41:11 AM
Hey Becki,
Whats the weight added on an RV-6 using the panels? Also will the matts
hold up to people digging their heels into them while getting in and out?
Thanks
Eric
OrndorffG(at)aol.com@matronics.com on 07/10/2001 09:41:24 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: RV-9A Floor boards
We now offer a 3/4" mat that is fire retardant and impervious to
oil,
fuel, etc. to fill in the stiffeners in the forward floor of the
side-by-side
models. It is $45.50 plus shipping. We used to recommend camping mats,
but
feel this is a better product. Please let us know if we can help you.
Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: what's wrong with this picture |
to the best of my recollection, i seem to remember seeing the skin edges on
the cowling. it was rivited on and someone said it was epoxied also. it
looked just like anyother skin lap joint to me. it was a damn sure nice
airplane.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: help paint gods!! |
Thanks to all who replied on and off list. Problem solved. The biggest
problem is that Im a bonehead. I was pretty proud of the fact that the plane
had been hurling itself through the atmosphere at a velocity such that no bug
could outrun, however I was displeased with the unsightly appearance of their
little squished dried up carc-asses all over my most prized posession, so
friday I thoroghly cleaned the entire exterior surface with LEMON PLEDGE
fisheye enhancer. Apparently just sanding alone does not remove all of it, as
a few remaining molecules of this stuff can sure mess you up. MORAL: CLEAN
THOROUGHLY!
Even if you are in a hurry to get back in the air because it is 80 degrees out
Kevin -9A
Apex airport WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: help paint gods!! |
Kevin: 1) Sand with 600 2) Pre-Clean with lacquer thinner to remove any oil
from hands or sanding goo 3) I always use a sealer (PPG Del-Seal as you use
it straight from the can) when working over at this time an unknown residue.
4) Smoke the "Finish Coat" like a cheap cigar!
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: <Im7shannon(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2001 11:38 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: help paint gods!!
>
> Well I really did it now. I decided to change the color of the wingtips,
so I
> took them off, sanded thoroughly with 220, and sprayed new color on
without
> priming. (note, wingtips were painted last summer) Now I have several
spots
> "fisheying"
> What to do now? prime over it and try again? apply another coat? Get some
> therapy?
> Kevin
> swearing has diminished, but running out of beer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Does anyone have the latest version of the Buddy file from Doug Reeves' web
site? My PC crashed and Doug is not supporting the buddy file at this time.
Would like the last version he had up there before he took it down if anyone
has it. Thanks!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, RV-4 dude
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Handheld GPS Selection (Ipaq experience) |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2001 11:19 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Handheld GPS Selection
>
>
> >
>
>
> >I just knew I would like the Anywhere MAP better what with color, touch
> >screen, multiple uses of the IPAQ, etc. But surprisingly, I found the
> >aviation specific III Pilot more to my liking. The color screen on the
IPAQ
> >was subject to glare a good bit of the time, it hung up twice and needed
to
> >be "rebooted" (after all it does run under Windows!). I sure did want to
> >like Anywhere Map more as I like their software and database update
policies
> >($100/yr) when compared to Garmin (big $$$). But I think the better
> >visibility of the little black and white screen on the Garmin and the
dash
> >mount are better for me.
>
> I am having the same experience with the Anywhere and IPaq. I have a
> UPSAT 360 panel mount GPS that has a redimentary moving map. A few lines
> and some dots. After initial reluctance I was seduced by the AWM setup.
> Maybe it will get better but so far it is just a relief to forget about
> that thing and go back to the B&W stick map.
>
> Between visibility problems, database problems, software problems and GPS
> problems, and cables running around the cockpit, it has just been a pain
> so far. At one point, anytime I used the nearest function and picked an
> airport, it set me up for direct to Anchorage, Argentina (this was cured
> by the normal Windows method, a reboot). The aviation GPS is just much
> more stable.
>
> I haven't completely given up yet, the AOPA database alone is a seductive
> feature, but I suspect I will have some equipment for sale soon.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
>
> Larry,
I had the same trouble of lockups with the first unit( a rebuilt $50 savings
over new) and I was running out of time before my Alaska trip so I told them
to ship a new unit. I flew over 11000 miles with it in the last 6 weeks and
it has never locked up once. I simply have fell in love with it on the trip.
I hope my unit continues to function without lockups. I plan to keep a
dedicated backup GPS running. I currently have a Garmin 195 and it is very
handy to have a moving map with North up plus the ipaq half circle display
with direction of flight. My current thoughts are to sell my Navaid because
I never bother to turn it on once I started to use the ipaq because there is
only an insignificantly small workload increase to hold course if you are
holding altitude. You simply line up the two lines and you are on course.
The cone of safety circles is a neat feature and the obstacle avoidance
feature could certainly save make your day if you get trapped into scud
running. I have been giving it great praise to everyone I have met on the
trip, hope I am not doing them an injustice!
Bernie Kerr
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: what's wrong with this picture |
Paint and probably micro!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2001 9:31 AM
Subject: RV-List: what's wrong with this picture
You guys are killing me. How'd he do this? I WANT DETAILS!!!!! :-)
I'd like to do part of my HRII cowl this way to mesh with the military
scheme I've tentatively picked out. How'd he hide the edge where the
aluminum meets the fiberglass?
%
$#$ I was at SnF, but I missed this one. I sure wish I'd seen it. Who's
bird is it?
Vince in Indiana
HRII sloooooooow build
http://dkoelzer.murkworks.com/snf01/rval.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Floor boards |
> Now that I'm putting the forward fuse together, I can see that under our
> feet will be nothing but the lower skin between us and the exhaust as well
> as hot or cold outside air. The stiffener flange is 3/4" high. I was
> thinking this might be a good place for a little insulation as well as
> something other than the bottom skin to park ones heels on.
> may I ask what you did in this area?
I bought Becky's new product. My concern was to get something suitable for
an aircraft. Camping mats are not suitable, they go up in flames like they
were designed to burn. Watch the flammables on the interiors!
I plan on gluing my carpet to this mat with a water based 3M Fastbond
contact cement. I couldn't find a glue that was completely inflammable but
this stuff is close. The mat will then get a few small pieces of velcro to
hold it to the floor skin. This is part of my plan to strip my interior
(rather full) for a lower acro weight. Might help with cleaning too.
For carpet, may I recommend going to an automobile upholstery shop. They
have catalogs of stuff that meets your local highways transportation code.
This will get you an acceptable flammability rating.
May I suggest another fire inhibiting product, page 298 ACS top left, Flame
Block for $21.95 USD. Read their description, how can you not buy some? It
comes in a spray bottle, it sprays like water, and it is odorless. I am
spraying this on all absorbent interior pieces.
For foams (side panels and seats) there are several suppliers of Temperfoam.
There were some posts on this very recently. Temperfoam was developed for
Apollo and has very good fire retardant properties. It costs a little more
but it's worth it.
If you have gathered products from all over the place that you would like to
build your interior with, it is only prudent that you go outside with some
scraps and a Bic lighter and see just how suitable the products are for
aviation use. Watch the flammables on the interiors! Lose the camping mats!
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
PS - I made my Arlington name tag, did you?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ellis H Mcgaughy" <Ellis.H.Mcgaughy-1(at)usa.dupont.com> |
This is definitely a newby sort of question, so bear with me.
I completed the HS rear spar of my RV7 last weekend. I squeezed the 1/8"
rivets that hold HS609 and HS603 together with a pneumatic squeezer with
generally excellent results. However, on a couple of the rivets, I didn't
squeeze them quite flat and when I tried to correct this, I got a very
small "smiley" on the bottom spar. Should I be worried about the smiley
causing structural (stress risers) on the spar? The rivet set doesn't have
very sharp corners on it, so I'm thinking I am OK. Any A&P or
knowledgeable person out there that can rest my mind at ease?
If I try to buff or sand the smiley out, I'm affraid I might bump the rivet
head. At the least, I'll have to reprime that area.
The rivets in question are not bad enough to drill out. There are only a
couple.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: help paint gods!! |
In a message dated 7/9/01 8:40:25 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Im7shannon(at)aol.com writes:
>
> Well I really did it now. I decided to change the color of the wingtips, so
> I
> took them off, sanded thoroughly with 220, and sprayed new color on without
> priming. (note, wingtips were painted last summer) Now I have several spots
> "fisheying"
> What to do now? prime over it and try again? apply another coat? Get some
> therapy?
> Kevin
> swearing has diminished, but running out of beer
>
>
>
1. Get more beer
2. Sand fish eye area with at least 1000 grit paper
3. Get more beer
4. Go to the paint store and buy an additive called fisheye remover or anti
cratering remover.
5 Get more beer
6. Re shoot the tips with the color and this aditive mixed
7. now that you have all this beer...have a party.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
Scott...
I will send you one... BTW... The latest version of IM (4.3) keeps your
buddy list "on-line", so if you have to re-install it's automatically there,
and if you logon from a different PC, it's automatically there... You can
get the latest version here:
http://www.aol.com/aim/home.html
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Van Artsdalen,
Scott
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2001 9:52 AM
Subject: RV-List: IM buddy file
Does anyone have the latest version of the Buddy file from Doug Reeves' web
site? My PC crashed and Doug is not supporting the buddy file at this time.
Would like the last version he had up there before he took it down if anyone
has it. Thanks!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, RV-4 dude
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Floor boards |
>
> For carpet, may I recommend going to an automobile upholstery shop. They
> have catalogs of stuff that meets your local highways transportation code.
> This will get you an acceptable flammability rating.
>
For those in the Seattle area, Boeing Surplus has rolls and rolls of carpet
that appears to be left overs from airliners. There is quite a selection of
color, but one roll looks like enough to do all the RV-8's that Van has sold
to date. I remember seeing prices like $150.00 per roll, but next time
there I will look and see if there are any small pieces.
Terry
RV-8A fuselage
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron mounts |
Jeff,
I vote with Paul. Just cut the spacers to fit the gaps and move on. The
main thing (in my mind) is that the aileron gets mounted as far outboard as
necessary to make it line up with the end of the wing. That way, there will
be a nice fit with the tip. This also keeps it from interfering with the
flaps. My aileron was so far away from one side of the mount that the
upstop turned out to be a piece of 0.063" angle rather than the flat piece
of aluminum called out in the plans. Also, I wouldn't recommend moving the
mounts as they need the rigidity afforded by the stub rib and end rib.
Jim Bower
St. Louis MO
RV-6A Still working on wings
>From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV List
>Subject: RV-List: Aileron mounts
>Date: Mon, 09 Jul 2001 21:21:02 -0500
>
>
>Either my ailerons are 1/2 inch too short, or I am losing my mind.
>Maybe both.
>
>The outer mount on the 6/6A aileron is fixed in place on the end rib,
>with about 1/4 inch play side to side (without spacers.) When the
>inboard mount is placed in the right spot (56 1/2 from the root rib) the
>aileron refuses to mount on the wing like the drawing. The inboard
>mount sits smack in the middle of the inboard bracket, not with the
>9/16" spacer to the inboard side, as per the plans. Moving the inboard
>bracket to suit causes it to move to far from the 425 stub rib, which
>shares it's rivets. This is equally true on both wings, so wherever I
>messed up, at least I was consistant.
>
>Questions:
>
>1. Will the aileron pushrod have enough room without rubbing against
>the inboard bracket, as described above?
>
>2. Any problem with moving the bracket such that the rivets which
>attach it to the spar are just outboard of the 425 flange?
>
>3. Would someone with mounted ailerons please measure for me the gap
>between the inner edge of the aileron and the outer edge of the bottom
>skin, where the skin is cut out for the aileron (looks to me like it
>should be about 1/4 ", if that is right, at least I did something
>right.)
>
>4. Am I the first one to have this problem?
>
>Thanks as always
>Jeff Point
>-6 wings
>Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: help paint gods!! |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Re: help paint gods!!
Thread-Index: AcEJZs+D6x7ISF1vSleHD0qdTVUrZQAABomQ
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Is it true that once you use fisheye remover in your spraygun that it
forever contaminates it? So, if you buy into that piece of advice you
will always have to use it when spraying with your gun. I had someone
tell me that, but I'm very skeptical about that claim...
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
> -----Original Message-----
> From: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com [mailto:MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2001 12:01 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: help paint gods!!
>
>
>
> In a message dated 7/9/01 8:40:25 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> Im7shannon(at)aol.com writes:
>
>
> >
> > Well I really did it now. I decided to change the color of
> the wingtips, so
> > I
> > took them off, sanded thoroughly with 220, and sprayed new
> color on without
> > priming. (note, wingtips were painted last summer) Now I
> have several spots
> > "fisheying"
> > What to do now? prime over it and try again? apply another
> coat? Get some
> > therapy?
> > Kevin
> > swearing has diminished, but running out of beer
> >
> >
> >
>
> 1. Get more beer
> 2. Sand fish eye area with at least 1000 grit paper
> 3. Get more beer
> 4. Go to the paint store and buy an additive called fisheye
> remover or anti
> cratering remover.
> 5 Get more beer
> 6. Re shoot the tips with the color and this aditive mixed
> 7. now that you have all this beer...have a party.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | instruction during test period |
My search of the RV-List's database of messages came up blank. The first
offer for insurance for my Harmon Rocket wants me to have 5 hour of dual
before solo. What is the current policy about having dual during the test
period? What if ?????? I get a 5000 hours total time, 750 hours tail
wheel, 250 hours in RV-4, CFI to do the first flight or two. Then once he
is happy with the plane, he then gives me 5 hours of dual. I will then fly
off the remaining test hours. Is this illegal, as I don't want to ask if it
puts his CFI in any danger?
Tom Gummo
God I hate Insurance companies.
HR-II engine run by the end of the month (I hope)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Re: help paint gods!! |
No--that's not true. I've used it on and off for years. On some jobs you
need it--on most you don't. It's nice to have some around just in case. If
you spray a coat and see some fisheyes start to appear, just add a few drops
to your gun for the next coat and they will flow out. When you clean your
gun after that job, carry on just like you never used it.
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bob Japundza
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2001 10:40 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: help paint gods!!
Is it true that once you use fisheye remover in your spraygun that it
forever contaminates it? So, if you buy into that piece of advice you
will always have to use it when spraying with your gun. I had someone
tell me that, but I'm very skeptical about that claim...
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
> -----Original Message-----
> From: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com [mailto:MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2001 12:01 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: help paint gods!!
>
>
> In a message dated 7/9/01 8:40:25 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> Im7shannon(at)aol.com writes:
>
>
> >
> > Well I really did it now. I decided to change the color of
> the wingtips, so
> > I
> > took them off, sanded thoroughly with 220, and sprayed new
> color on without
> > priming. (note, wingtips were painted last summer) Now I
> have several spots
> > "fisheying"
> > What to do now? prime over it and try again? apply another
> coat? Get some
> > therapy?
> > Kevin
> > swearing has diminished, but running out of beer
> >
> >
> >
>
> 1. Get more beer
> 2. Sand fish eye area with at least 1000 grit paper
> 3. Get more beer
> 4. Go to the paint store and buy an additive called fisheye
> remover or anti
> cratering remover.
> 5 Get more beer
> 6. Re shoot the tips with the color and this aditive mixed
> 7. now that you have all this beer...have a party.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Fisheye Contaminant |
Negative...not if you use a quality gun cleaner (more
than MEK or thinner) Sherwin Williams sells some
stuff in a red gallon can (can't remember the brand)
but it is specifically made to clean anything out of
spray guns..nasty, nasty stuff, though...need adequate
safety protection. (this coming from a guy who bathes
regularly in MEK)
====
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Getting Close
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: instruction during test period |
It's been done many times around here. I *think* the
loophole there is that one person is a "crew member"
and the other is a pilot. I've also heard that the
FAA guys understand that it is a much safer thing to
get instruction rather than not, so if there is a
legal issue regarding the regs, the way they would
interpret them would be much more relaxed. I would
call the local FSDO with jurisdiction of the area and
ask them their thoughts, but I do know that it has
been done with FAA knowledge before.
====
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Getting Close
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: instruction during test period |
Tom -
The phase I flight test restrictions on the plane would prevent dual
instruction before completion of the test period. There is a provision
which would allow two crewmembers during phase I testing, but you're on your
own trying that one. I wouldn't want to try and convince anyone that two
pilots are required to safely test fly a Harmon Rocket.
Sounds like you'll have to find someone with adequate qualifications to fly
off the phase I flight testing, then give you the required dual. This is
assuming you can't find another Harmon Rocket to get some dual first.
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ
CFI, RV Transition Training
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: instruction during test period |
Tom,
You're going to have a problem with this from the legal point of view. From
my stand point, when asked, I always give one flight, for safety reasons,
for dual instruction. In your case I can't see why the insurance company
has said this because of the amount of time you have in the RV-4, which is
similar. Of course, I don't understand several of the insurance company
practices, other than to prove they will earn as much money as possible
while leaving you out in the wind. That being said, the best thing I can
tell you is to get with your local FAA Inspector and ask him if you can do
this. When he/she asks you why, use the argument froma safety point of
view. The Operating Limitations are very clear that only one person is
allowed in the aircraft during testing unless they are considered essential
crew. The is the stand you need to take. But I would not hold out much
hope that you are going to get 5 hours of dual authorized under the
"essential crew" stand point.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
RV-8A
>From: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: instruction during test period
>Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 10:46:25 -0700
>
>
>My search of the RV-List's database of messages came up blank. The first
>offer for insurance for my Harmon Rocket wants me to have 5 hour of dual
>before solo. What is the current policy about having dual during the test
>period? What if ?????? I get a 5000 hours total time, 750 hours tail
>wheel, 250 hours in RV-4, CFI to do the first flight or two. Then once he
>is happy with the plane, he then gives me 5 hours of dual. I will then fly
>off the remaining test hours. Is this illegal, as I don't want to ask if
>it
>puts his CFI in any danger?
>
>Tom Gummo
>God I hate Insurance companies.
>HR-II engine run by the end of the month (I hope)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: instruction during test period |
Calling the local FSDO for their take on the issue could help. But I can't
imagine (not denying that it's been done) that the FAA would relax the
flight testing restrictions for the sake of transition training.
It comes down to whether or not the second person is required crewmember
during phase I flight testing. IF the FAA bought off on the idea that a
Harmon Rocket needed a crew of two for test flight, your CFI would then be a
flight test engineer for the first 25 or 40 hrs. Go for it, if you can pull
it off!
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ
CFI, RV Transition Training
Pearland, Texas
>It's been done many times around here. I *think* the
>loophole there is that one person is a "crew member"
>and the other is a pilot. I've also heard that the
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: instruction during test period |
Or simply go flying with your instructor and don't tell anyone.
Ok, sorry....but that's the way I would do it if I thought it would be
safer. FAA....bah. (sorry mike, you are excluded from that bah)
:-)
anonymous poster so Mike won't have to report me....don't look at my email
address either.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2001 2:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: instruction during test period
>
> Calling the local FSDO for their take on the issue could help. But I
can't
> imagine (not denying that it's been done) that the FAA would relax the
> flight testing restrictions for the sake of transition training.
>
> It comes down to whether or not the second person is required crewmember
> during phase I flight testing. IF the FAA bought off on the idea that a
> Harmon Rocket needed a crew of two for test flight, your CFI would then be
a
> flight test engineer for the first 25 or 40 hrs. Go for it, if you can
pull
> it off!
>
> Bryan Jones -8 765BJ
> CFI, RV Transition Training
> Pearland, Texas
>
>
> >It's been done many times around here. I *think* the
> >loophole there is that one person is a "crew member"
> >and the other is a pilot. I've also heard that the
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <DonH(at)axonn.com> |
| Subject: | instruction during test period |
I have a neighbor who just finished building a Sonex, and apparently the
local FAA people bought off on his finishing his private pilot solo hours
test flying the new plane, after a few hours of transition training in that
aircraft. He hired a test pilot for the first couple of hours, then went on
to transition training.
This is not to say that I figure this is such a great idea, but...
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bryan Jones [mailto:rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2001 1:15 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: instruction during test period
>
>
>
> Calling the local FSDO for their take on the issue could
> help. But I can't
> imagine (not denying that it's been done) that the FAA would
> relax the
> flight testing restrictions for the sake of transition training.
>
> It comes down to whether or not the second person is required
> crewmember
> during phase I flight testing. IF the FAA bought off on the
> idea that a
> Harmon Rocket needed a crew of two for test flight, your CFI
> would then be a
> flight test engineer for the first 25 or 40 hrs. Go for it,
> if you can pull
> it off!
>
> Bryan Jones -8 765BJ
> CFI, RV Transition Training
> Pearland, Texas
>
>
> >It's been done many times around here. I *think* the
> >loophole there is that one person is a "crew member"
> >and the other is a pilot. I've also heard that the
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: instruction during test period |
Tom--
Re-read your insurance fine print and see if the dual actually has to
come from a CFI. When I first started flying the Super 6, the
qualification was 10 hrs of dual time, but did not specify who had to be
in right seat.
We Easterners hear that Rockets are thick as flies out West, any other
Rockets around that you could snag time in?
Another quibble point is that, to be safe, you should have your log book
signed off for a High Performance Aircraft and a Tail Wheel endorsement.
Even with all the time in jets, insurance companies look at a high
horsepower taildragger as a unique animal. This goes back to the "fairy
tale" that any one who flies a taildragger will ground loop, eventually.
Good Luck and Good Flying,
Boyd.
Tom Gummo wrote:
>
>
> My search of the RV-List's database of messages came up blank. The first
> offer for insurance for my Harmon Rocket wants me to have 5 hour of dual
> before solo. What is the current policy about having dual during the test
> period? What if ?????? I get a 5000 hours total time, 750 hours tail
> wheel, 250 hours in RV-4, CFI to do the first flight or two. Then once he
> is happy with the plane, he then gives me 5 hours of dual. I will then fly
> off the remaining test hours. Is this illegal, as I don't want to ask if it
> puts his CFI in any danger?
>
> Tom Gummo
> God I hate Insurance companies.
> HR-II engine run by the end of the month (I hope)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: instruction during test period |
Back in the 70's I wrote the FAA a letter and received a reply that an
instructor could be considered required personnel as I wanted to get my
license in my first home built.
Paul Besing wrote:
>
> It's been done many times around here. I *think* the
> loophole there is that one person is a "crew member"
> and the other is a pilot. I've also heard that the
> FAA guys understand that it is a much safer thing to
> get instruction rather than not, so if there is a
> legal issue regarding the regs, the way they would
> interpret them would be much more relaxed. I would
> call the local FSDO with jurisdiction of the area and
> ask them their thoughts, but I do know that it has
> been done with FAA knowledge before.
>
> ====
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A 197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Getting Close
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Hughes" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: carpet, was RV-9A Floor boards |
There are scraps occasionally that are smaller than a full roll. I bought
some that was $1/pound. The stuff I bought was not carpet, but a trim
material that they put on the side walls. It's a lot lighter and will
handle the mild abuse I will put them thru, and at 30 pounds (that's what I
bought), I could re-do it once a year for the rest of my life.
If you have a buisness trip to the North Wet, you gotta make the time....
Keith Hughes
RV-6 Canopy
Parker, CO
----- Original Message -----
From: Terry Watson <tcwatson(at)seanet.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2001 11:21 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-9A Floor boards
> For those in the Seattle area, Boeing Surplus has rolls and rolls of
carpet
> that appears to be left overs from airliners. There is quite a selection
of
> color, but one roll looks like enough to do all the RV-8's that Van has
sold
> to date. I remember seeing prices like $150.00 per roll, but next time
> there I will look and see if there are any small pieces.
>
> Terry
> RV-8A fuselage
> Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fisheye Contaminant |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
03:46:08 PM
My paint store sells "The Naked Gun" gun cleaner. It will clean out two day
old epoxy resin in an overnight soaking. How do I know?
Eric
Paul Besing (at)matronics.com on 07/10/2001 01:51:31 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Fisheye Contaminant
Negative...not if you use a quality gun cleaner (more
than MEK or thinner) Sherwin Williams sells some
stuff in a red gallon can (can't remember the brand)
but it is specifically made to clean anything out of
spray guns..nasty, nasty stuff, though...need adequate
safety protection. (this coming from a guy who bathes
regularly in MEK)
====
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Getting Close
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Small Smiley |
--- Norman wrote:
>
> May I suggest that you go down to your local aircraft wrecking yard.
> Have
> yourself a look inside some factory ships then go home and build on
>
> Norman Hunger
What Norman is saying here is that you are doing what we all (or most
of us) had to do when we started - and that is to learn what is
acceptable and what is not. That's a wide range since there are
perfectionists on one end of the spectrum, and how shall I say... less
than craftsmen on the other... and then there are factory-built.
Now while I _have_ heard of a Long EZ which lost a wingtip due to a
missing lay up (after 100 hours of flight time), I have never heard of
an RV being lost due to poor construction.
The fact that you even question the quality of that rivet tells me your
craftsmanship is up to par.
To quote, "Build On"!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: help paint gods!! |
In a message dated 7/10/01 10:42:35 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com writes:
>
> Is it true that once you use fisheye remover in your spraygun that it
> forever contaminates it? So, if you buy into that piece of advice you
> will always have to use it when spraying with your gun. I had someone
> tell me that, but I'm very skeptical about that claim...
>
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying
>
>
I was told that once you use fisheye remover in the paint you must use it
when you paint on that surface again. I did not here anything about the gun.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: instruction during test period |
In a message dated 7/10/01 10:46:45 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
t.gummo(at)verizon.net writes:
>
> My search of the RV-List's database of messages came up blank. The first
> offer for insurance for my Harmon Rocket wants me to have 5 hour of dual
> before solo. What is the current policy about having dual during the test
> period? What if ?????? I get a 5000 hours total time, 750 hours tail
> wheel, 250 hours in RV-4, CFI to do the first flight or two. Then once he
> is happy with the plane, he then gives me 5 hours of dual. I will then fly
> off the remaining test hours. Is this illegal, as I don't want to ask if it
> puts his CFI in any danger?
>
> Tom Gummo
> God I hate Insurance companies.
> HR-II engine run by the end of the month (I hope)
>
>
>
The Fresno Fisdo FAA guy told me when my plane was signed off that the only
legal way to have or be a passenger in your plane during the testing phase is
(quote) "that person must be essential to the purpose of the flight" your off
the hook as long as you can prove that. Now go out and try to find a good
Life Insurance Policy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Handheld GPS Selection (Ipaq experience) |
I have had similar problems with mine, on the 4th of July I was exclaiming to
my dad what a neat little unit it was, and it quit completely right in the
middle of the sentence. It didnt just lock up this time, it went completely
blank and had to be completely re-programmed. I think it got too hot, it was
98 degrees out, and the plane sat on the ramp for 2 hours with the canopy
closed. It has worked fine though since I reloaded the new program for July.
I needed to upgrade it anyway. I have to be more tolerant with mine because I
mounted it in my panel. I am hoping now that something in the way of a bigger
screen will be available soon, I really have to squint at this thing to see
those little numbers.
Kevin -9A
31 hours
> > >I just knew I would like the Anywhere MAP better what with color, touch
> > >screen, multiple uses of the IPAQ, etc. But surprisingly, I found the
> > >aviation specific III Pilot more to my liking. The color screen on the
> IPAQ
> > >was subject to glare a good bit of the time, it hung up twice and needed
> to
> > >be "rebooted" (after all it does run under Windows!). I sure did want
to
> > >like Anywhere Map more as I like their software and database update
> policies
> > >($100/yr) when compared to Garmin (big $$$). But I think the better
> > >visibility of the little black and white screen on the Garmin and the
> dash
> > >mount are better for me.
> >
> > I am having the same experience with the Anywhere and IPaq. I have a
> > UPSAT 360 panel mount GPS that has a redimentary moving map. A few lines
> > and some dots. After initial reluctance I was seduced by the AWM setup.
> > Maybe it will get better but so far it is just a relief to forget about
> > that thing and go back to the B&W stick map.
> >
> > Between visibility problems, database problems, software problems and GPS
> > problems, and cables running around the cockpit, it has just been a pain
> > so far. At one point, anytime I used the nearest function and picked an
> > airport, it set me up for direct to Anchorage, Argentina (this was cured
> > by the normal Windows method, a reboot). The aviation GPS is just much
> > more stable.
> >
> > I haven't completely given up yet, the AOPA database alone is a seductive
> > feature, but I suspect I will have some equipment for sale soon.
> >
> > Larry Pardue
> > Carlsbad, NM
> >
> > RV-6 N441LP Flying
> > http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
> >
> >
> > Larry,
>
> I had the same trouble of lockups with the first unit( a rebuilt $50
savings
> over new) and I was running out of time before my Alaska trip so I told
them
> to ship a new unit. I flew over 11000 miles with it in the last 6 weeks and
> it has never locked up once. I simply have fell in love with it on the
trip.
> I hope my unit continues to function without lockups. I plan to keep a
> dedicated backup GPS running. I currently have a Garmin 195 and it is very
> handy to have a moving map with North up plus the ipaq half circle display
> with direction of flight. My current thoughts are to sell my Navaid because
> I never bother to turn it on once I started to use the ipaq because there
is
> only an insignificantly small workload increase to hold course if you are
> holding altitude. You simply line up the two lines and you are on course.
> The cone of safety circles is a neat feature and the obstacle avoidance
> feature could certainly save make your day if you get trapped into scud
> running. I have been giving it great praise to everyone I have met on the
> trip, hope I am not doing them an injustice!
>
> Bernie Kerr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | off topic - airfield recommendations |
This message is not RV related, so please hit Delete now if you are
so inclined.
Please send any complaints about off topic messages direct to me, not
to the list, so my one message doesn't generate a 20 message thread
on the pros and cons of off-topic messages :-)
=========================
My dad and I will fly his 1946 Fleet Canuck from Yarmouth, Nova
Scotia to OSH and return. Picture at:
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/fleet01.JPG
I'm looking for recommendations for airfields for the US portion of
the route. We'll be crossing the border north of Detroit, near Port
Huron, MI, going around Chicago and then up to OSH. Our current plan
is to clear Customs at Macomb Field (or is that MaComb?) (57D), near
New Haven, MI.
We're looking for recommendations on places to stop for fuel every
150 - 250 miles (depending on the headwinds). The engine is happiest
on 80/87 or MOGAS, and we don't have a transponder, but we do have a
handheld Com. We'd prefer quieter airstrips, grass or pavement
doesn't matter.
We'll almost certainly need to spend a night somewhere in Michigan,
Indiana or Illinois, so extra points are given for recommendations of
an airfield that you can camp at, or with reasonably priced hotels
within walking distance.
If anyone knows of any airfields where you can get 80/87 or MOGAS in
Canada between southern New Brunswick and Windsor, ON we'd love to
hear about those too. 80/87 seems to have gone the way of the
dinosaurs up here :-(
Please respond directly to me, not the list. mailto:khorton(at)cyberus.ca
Thanks,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Oshkosh Camping Options |
>
> I suggest putting a sign in your window stating "Showplane Camping".
As somebody who has been doing the directing at North Point for some
years now...
PLEASE, PLEASE make CLEAR BIG signs with BIG letters as to where you
would like to go.
We don't like to get in the prop arc to read that 5x8 card stuck against
the inside of the canopee as to where you would like to go.
We plainly do not have the time if we have incoming traffic from 4
directions at the intersection. You would not be the first one to go the
scenic tour to the RV area.
It is frustrating enough to get you to the rv parking area through all
the walking folks, warbirds and the 'One Too Many' (ford TriMotor)
Having to tell you to fire back up and repeat the process in reverse to
get you to camping/auto-engine/1000-hour/earth-rounders etc. just
complicates things.
i guess those of you who flew in the RV's in the last few years know
what i am talking about. Quite a few had to wait for outcoming traffic
or were shuttled around to get the Trimotor/warbird in or out.
Also, if we cannot park you with the rv's because we are reaching
critical mass in the RV parking, please, please don't argue with us if
we try to get you a (temp.) place amongst the 'tupperware'. We'll try to
get you in as soon as we can. We do realize, us RV'ers like to park
together.
Think of it this way, the alternative could be row 1294 somewhere in
fondulac ;-)
Gert
p.s. did I mention BIG sign and BIG letters ??
>
> I suggest putting a sign in your window stating "Showplane Camping".
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cheapskate Rivet Cutter |
Hey Tedd
Go have a look at http://www.execpc.com/~gert/ near the bottom, after
the c-frame pictures. I made a dandy rivet cutter out of some $5.-
crimping tool I found in on-sale bin in a hardware store.
Yer not the only cheapskate, being dutch, that's in my genes ;-)
Gert
Tedd McHenry wrote:
>
>
> I've probably entered a whole new era in the history of cheapskates, but
> I've just cut some rivets quite nicely without spending a dime.
>
> I used a piece of 1.25" steel flat bar, left over from when I made my
> home-made fluting pliers (http://www.vansairforce.org/tools). I drilled a
> hole in the bar the correct size for the rivets I wanted to cut, and clamped
> the bar in my vise. I then positioned a rivet so that it projected through
> the hole the correct amount, placed the tip of a sharp, 1" wood chisel on
> the side of the rivet, and cleaved through it with a blow from a dead-blow
> hammer. Then I cleaned up the end with a light kiss from a Scotchbrite
> wheel.
>
> Okay, it's a lot more trouble than a proper rivet cutter. But it was free,
> and I didn't have to go to the store or wait for a mail order. Oh, by the
> way, there was no perceptible damage to the chisel.
>
> Tedd McHenry
> Surrey, BC
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wicks-customer service |
| From: | james freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
Hi all
I wanted to post a quick note to the list about Wicks Aircraft supply.
I ordered a bunch of random parts, supplies, and hardware from Wicks
yesterday at lunch. I was in my office and didn't have the catalog in front
of me, but the guy on the phone cheerfully ( and knowledgeably) looked up
all the part numbers for me.
As I type this I have two boxes of stuff from Wicks that UPS just dropped
off. This is maybe 30 hours after I ordered it (not a "rush" order) and the
complex order is perfect. No mistakes, everything here as ordered
Wow.
We have gotten accustomed to flaky vendors in our hobby, and I fully
understand the difficulties involved with maintaining good service/low
cost/high volume, but Wicks somehow manages to get it right every time.
Just wanted to pass this along...
James Freeman
RV8QB inch by inch....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob A" <racker(at)rmci.net> |
| Subject: | Wicks-customer service |
I have to chime in and give Wicks a thumbs up too.
A couple of weeks ago, I ordered some stuff from their web page. Alas, 10
working days passed and no parts. Checked the UPS tracking number that had
been e-mailed to me from Wicks, the parts arrived at my former address five
days ago (this was my first order at the new address). Sigh.
Contacted Wicks via e-mail, within 10 minutes I had a *phone call*
apologizing for the error, all my shipping charges would be credited, and
they will resend my order again asap.
With A$$, I have had consistently misfilled orders, pricing different than
catalog and or web page pricing, and lots of backorders (still waiting after
4 weeks for some pop rivets to show up).
Also, A$$ backorders are supposed to ship free. I have been billed for
backorder shipping, and once it took three phone calls to get them to drop
the charge. The ONLY time I order from A$$ is if I absolutely can't find it
elsewhere.
Rob Acker (RV-6Q, wiring)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of james freeman
> Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2001 5:01 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Wicks-customer service
>
>
> Hi all
>
> I wanted to post a quick note to the list about Wicks Aircraft supply.
>
> I ordered a bunch of random parts, supplies, and hardware from Wicks
> yesterday at lunch. I was in my office and didn't have the
> catalog in front
> of me, but the guy on the phone cheerfully ( and knowledgeably) looked up
> all the part numbers for me.
>
> As I type this I have two boxes of stuff from Wicks that UPS just dropped
> off. This is maybe 30 hours after I ordered it (not a "rush"
> order) and the
> complex order is perfect. No mistakes, everything here as ordered
>
> Wow.
>
> We have gotten accustomed to flaky vendors in our hobby, and I fully
> understand the difficulties involved with maintaining good service/low
> cost/high volume, but Wicks somehow manages to get it right every time.
>
> Just wanted to pass this along...
>
> James Freeman
> RV8QB inch by inch....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Wicks-customer service |
Wicks also has a great on-line store... ordering weird lug nuts etc. at 2
a.m. Sunday morning is a bizarre experience.
Matthew
-8A fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: instruction during test period |
I think you will find you are sticking your
neck out on this one. It has to be a required
crew member and I don't think this fits "Requirement"
It is a Liability issue for sure,, Be careful!!!!
Stewart.. RV4 Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | RV-9A Skin Cutout for Main Gear |
Dwg. 34 has a template for the main gear cutout in the F-972 Forward Bottom
Skin. Before I make this cutout, I would like to know how well it fits the
gear leg. The cutout is very close to one of the rivet holes. I thought
about asking Kevin Shannon off list but it sound like there may be several
9A fuselages about ready to make the cut in the skin.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
Working on fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Stick grip PTT switch |
Does anyone know who manufactures the hardwood stick grips sold in Van's
catalog? I need to replace one of the switches that come with these grips.
The rubber dust shield broke (my fault) and now I can't find the switch
(removed to work on stick) !! Anyone know where I can get this boogers?
Thanks!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen RV-4, cowling, hoses, baffles (wings not on yet)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | From one of the "Paint Guys" |
Man! Just when you think you got folks going good....
To answer kevin's questions first.... ALWAYS, Always,
Always...chemically clean the repair area BEFORE you start. As you
found out, Pledge is 80% silicone base. Sanding and washing doesn't get
it off. Sanding just drives it deeper into the finish. If your dry
hand sanding I'd never recommend anything more course than 320 Grit
followed by 600 wet sand. Chemically clean between each step.
We use "Final Wash" to clean the work.
As far buffing and polishing, after the finish has cured, wet sand
starting with 600 to 1000 depending on the blemish and the Mils of
color applied. Follow that with 1500 - 2000. Now your ready to start
compounding. We use a 3 stage compound process, then a 2 stage polish.
Wiping each stage off and changing our foam pad between each stage (grit).
For "fish-eyes", we rarely have a problem because of filtered booth air
and filtered compressed air. Most of the defects that occur, happen due
to contaminated compressed air( oil and water condensation mainly).
"Fish-eye Eliminator" is different for every brand and type so, use what
is recommended by the maker. Imron FE doesn't work in Randolph, PPG
won't work with Omni and so on.
If you do have to use FE,use it sparingly, then just clean your gun with
"wash thinner" and you're go to go for the next job. Several things to
be aware of though, FE "slightly softens the topcoat in order to flow
over the defect, and if it flows over a defect it's not really binding
to the substraints.
Generally if we get a really bad area of "fishies" we stop, let it cure,
and clean, clean, clean. Sometimes a long time contaminate(like AFFF on
crash trucks and Jet A) has migrated to the substraint so you gotta take
it down to a virgin coat or base and bring it back out.
I keep hearing some folks using Enamel Reducer to clean Urethane
repairs. Not a real good idea. Although it will clean, it also softens
the repair area and will lead to scratch raising or worse. Use what is
recommended and or what is compatible with the product your using.
Whew!...Hope this helps some.
Jim Duckett, RV-7A (yea, yea wheel in front!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Wicks-customer service |
You bet they do! I love the fact that their bound catalog matches their web
catalog exactly! Makes it really easy to order from the web page! Not to
mention the time they worked for two months to find some small plastic
fasteners that I wanted - and then didn't even charge me for them!! Just
said "Here they are, enjoy! We enjoyed the challenge!"
They are definitely a class act!
-----Original Message-----
From: Matthew Gelber [mailto:mgelber(at)pacbell.net]
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2001 5:10 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Wicks-customer service
Wicks also has a great on-line store... ordering weird lug
nuts etc. at 2
a.m. Sunday morning is a bizarre experience.
Matthew
-8A fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Wicks-customer service |
Yup, Wicks is good. I have found their on-line catalog to be a little out
of date sometimes though. If something's not in the catalog, ask...they
probably have it.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Matthew Gelber
> Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2001 8:10 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Wicks-customer service
>
>
> Wicks also has a great on-line store... ordering weird lug nuts etc. at 2
> a.m. Sunday morning is a bizarre experience.
>
> Matthew
> -8A fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wicks-customer service |
what do you call the plastic grommet that fits on the baffles to pass the 2
ignition wires through? can't look it up in the on line cataloge, if i don't
know what they call it.
scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Oshkosh Camping Options |
The SIGNs for Oshkosh are in the current July issue of Vintage Airplane.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2001 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fwd: Oshkosh Camping Options
>
> I suggest putting a sign in your window stating "Showplane Camping".
As somebody who has been doing the directing at North Point for some
years now...
PLEASE, PLEASE make CLEAR BIG signs with BIG letters as to where you
would like to go.
We don't like to get in the prop arc to read that 5x8 card stuck against
the inside of the canopee as to where you would like to go.
We plainly do not have the time if we have incoming traffic from 4
directions at the intersection. You would not be the first one to go the
scenic tour to the RV area.
It is frustrating enough to get you to the rv parking area through all
the walking folks, warbirds and the 'One Too Many' (ford TriMotor)
Having to tell you to fire back up and repeat the process in reverse to
get you to camping/auto-engine/1000-hour/earth-rounders etc. just
complicates things.
i guess those of you who flew in the RV's in the last few years know
what i am talking about. Quite a few had to wait for outcoming traffic
or were shuttled around to get the Trimotor/warbird in or out.
Also, if we cannot park you with the rv's because we are reaching
critical mass in the RV parking, please, please don't argue with us if
we try to get you a (temp.) place amongst the 'tupperware'. We'll try to
get you in as soon as we can. We do realize, us RV'ers like to park
together.
Think of it this way, the alternative could be row 1294 somewhere in
fondulac ;-)
Gert
p.s. did I mention BIG sign and BIG letters ??
>
> I suggest putting a sign in your window stating "Showplane Camping".
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | RV-9A Skin Cutout for Main Gear |
Albert,
The template is very accurate. The cutout just about touches one rivet. If
anything, you will probably end up grinding the aft side of the cutout
(toward the rivet) in order to install the gear mounts after making the
cutout according to the template.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
RV project on hold while I build hangar
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2001 7:30 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-9A Skin Cutout for Main Gear
Dwg. 34 has a template for the main gear cutout in the F-972 Forward Bottom
Skin. Before I make this cutout, I would like to know how well it fits the
gear leg. The cutout is very close to one of the rivet holes. I thought
about asking Kevin Shannon off list but it sound like there may be several
9A fuselages about ready to make the cut in the skin.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
Working on fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh b'gosh |
Hey guys,
Anybody got a spare seat to Oshkosh from the Los Angeles area ? Happy to
share gas.
Ed Holyoke
RV-6 QB
N86ED (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wicks-customer service |
Ditto...
Bottom line...I look for the part from Wicks first...then if I cant get it
there I go elsewhere. They get it right and bar none get it to me the
fastest!! Lost my Wicks catalog the other day and it drove me nuts looking
all over the house for it....finally found it....THANK GOD!!! All is now
well.
Kurt in OKC
Forever a Wicks Supporter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stick grip PTT switch |
Page 26 of Van's catalog. P/N GRIP SWITCH $10.67
====
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Getting Close
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Oshkosh Camping Options |
Cy
Can you post some of the notes re. signs. I do not get the Vintage
Airplanes.
thanks
Gert
Cy Galley wrote:
>
>
> The SIGNs for Oshkosh are in the current July issue of Vintage Airplane.
>
> Cy Galley
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2001 5:36 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fwd: Oshkosh Camping Options
>
>
> >
> > I suggest putting a sign in your window stating "Showplane Camping".
>
> As somebody who has been doing the directing at North Point for some
> years now...
>
> PLEASE, PLEASE make CLEAR BIG signs with BIG letters as to where you
> would like to go.
>
> We don't like to get in the prop arc to read that 5x8 card stuck against
> the inside of the canopee as to where you would like to go.
> We plainly do not have the time if we have incoming traffic from 4
> directions at the intersection. You would not be the first one to go the
> scenic tour to the RV area.
>
> It is frustrating enough to get you to the rv parking area through all
> the walking folks, warbirds and the 'One Too Many' (ford TriMotor)
>
> Having to tell you to fire back up and repeat the process in reverse to
> get you to camping/auto-engine/1000-hour/earth-rounders etc. just
> complicates things.
>
> i guess those of you who flew in the RV's in the last few years know
> what i am talking about. Quite a few had to wait for outcoming traffic
> or were shuttled around to get the Trimotor/warbird in or out.
>
> Also, if we cannot park you with the rv's because we are reaching
> critical mass in the RV parking, please, please don't argue with us if
> we try to get you a (temp.) place amongst the 'tupperware'. We'll try to
> get you in as soon as we can. We do realize, us RV'ers like to park
> together.
>
> Think of it this way, the alternative could be row 1294 somewhere in
> fondulac ;-)
>
> Gert
>
> p.s. did I mention BIG sign and BIG letters ??
>
> >
> > I suggest putting a sign in your window stating "Showplane Camping".
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wicks-customer service |
In a message dated 7/10/2001 6:32:17 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com writes:
Thats what I'm looking for also
>
>
> what do you call the plastic grommet that fits on the baffles to pass the 2
> ignition wires through? can't look it up in the on line cataloge, if i
> don't
> know what they call it.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | behind the panel questions |
Hi,
On my 6 QB, slider, I'm laying out instruments and they interfere with
the F 6107 L and F 6108 forward ribs. What do you guys do when this
happens?
The interferance on the F 6108 center rib is only about 3" deep and I am
considering making a little U shaped box around the instrument where the
6108 would be cut.
The F 6107 L is another story. My attitude indicator would interfere
with it for a depth of about 7". I thought maybe I could substitute an F
6107 R for it and then just the bottom flange of that would be cut away
and I could add a stiffener angle to the opposite side to make sort of a
"Z" shaped rib. Or I could graft an opposite facing angle onto the
portion of the rib aft of the sub-panel. I wouldn't be able to have a
bottom flange on this piece unless it faced the other way - sort of a
"Z" .
Any better ideas ? Or should I just find another place for my
instruments?
Also, I want to make my panel removable for future service. Thinking
about cutting it vertically at the radio stack where the 2 pieces would
land on an .063 angle with nutplates so either side could be removed
individually. The angle would be attached to the center rib at the top
and have a brace running forward to the sub-panel at the bottom. Is this
a crazy scheme?
Ed Holyoke
6 QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
I'm wondering what has been used as a spacer between plexiglass and
canopy frame? Aluminum squares, circles, nylon? I have gaps to fill
.030 to 3/16 and wondered what others have used?
Dave Ford
RV6 beginning finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: behind the panel questions |
Another thought. If I can notch and reinforce the F 6110 L canopy deck
somehow, for my navaid, then all the other spacing problems don't occur.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Holyoke
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2001 9:18 PM
Subject: behind the panel questions
Hi,
On my 6 QB, slider, I'm laying out instruments and they interfere with
the F 6107 L and F 6108 forward ribs. What do you guys do when this
happens?
The interferance on the F 6108 center rib is only about 3" deep and I am
considering making a little U shaped box around the instrument where the
6108 would be cut.
The F 6107 L is another story. My attitude indicator would interfere
with it for a depth of about 7". I thought maybe I could substitute an F
6107 R for it and then just the bottom flange of that would be cut away
and I could add a stiffener angle to the opposite side to make sort of a
"Z" shaped rib. Or I could graft an opposite facing angle onto the
portion of the rib aft of the sub-panel. I wouldn't be able to have a
bottom flange on this piece unless it faced the other way - sort of a
"Z" .
Any better ideas ? Or should I just find another place for my
instruments?
Also, I want to make my panel removable for future service. Thinking
about cutting it vertically at the radio stack where the 2 pieces would
land on an .063 angle with nutplates so either side could be removed
individually. The angle would be attached to the center rib at the top
and have a brace running forward to the sub-panel at the bottom. Is this
a crazy scheme?
Ed Holyoke
6 QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com> |
| Subject: | RE: plastic grommet |
The plastic grommet that fits on the baffels to pass the ignition wires
through... is in the ACS catalog on page 238. They are called (get this!):
"engine baffle ignition wire seals".
jim
Tampa
N555JN "Paradox"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of JusCash(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2001 12:13 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wicks-customer service
In a message dated 7/10/2001 6:32:17 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com writes:
Thats what I'm looking for also
>
>
> what do you call the plastic grommet that fits on the baffles to pass the
2
> ignition wires through? can't look it up in the on line cataloge, if i
> don't
> know what they call it.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Stick grip PTT switch |
In a message dated 7/10/01 5:47:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com writes:
<< Does anyone know who manufactures the hardwood stick grips sold in Van's
catalog? I need to replace one of the switches that come with these grips.
The rubber dust shield broke (my fault) and now I can't find the switch
(removed to work on stick) !! Anyone know where I can get this boogers? >>
Northwest Custom Grips makes the grips and sells the accessories. Imagine my
surprise to find that I don't have them listed in the Yeller Pages. I will
get the contact info and post it here. Van's sells the rubber boots and the
switches also, I think.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Plastic Ignition Wire Grommet |
In a message dated 7/10/01 6:32:17 PM Pacific Daylight Time, ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
writes:
<< what do you call the plastic grommet that fits on the baffles to pass the
2
ignition wires through? >>
Plastic Ignition Wire Grommets P/N 375 from ACS.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jayeandscott" <jayeandscott(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy spacers |
I used white nylon washers bought at Home Depot.
----- Original Message -----
From: dave ford <dford(at)michweb.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2001 12:35 AM
Subject: RV-List: Canopy spacers
>
> I'm wondering what has been used as a spacer between plexiglass and
> canopy frame? Aluminum squares, circles, nylon? I have gaps to fill
> .030 to 3/16 and wondered what others have used?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6 beginning finishing
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Skin Cutout for Main Gear |
Yup I second that, the template is right on
Kevin
In a message dated 7/10/01 8:25:15 PM, cjh(at)execpc.com writes:
>Albert,
>
>The template is very accurate. The cutout just about touches one rivet.
>If
>anything, you will probably end up grinding the aft side of the cutout
>(toward the rivet) in order to install the gear mounts after making the
>cutout according to the template.
>
>Chris Heitman
>Dousman WI
>RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
>RV project on hold while I build hangar
>http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
>Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2001 7:30 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV-9A Skin Cutout for Main Gear
>
>
>
>
>Dwg. 34 has a template for the main gear cutout in the F-972 Forward Bottom
>Skin. Before I make this cutout, I would like to know how well it fits
>the
>gear leg. The cutout is very close to one of the rivet holes. I thought
>about asking Kevin Shannon off list but it sound like there may be several
>9A fuselages about ready to make the cut in the skin.
>Albert Gardner
>Yuma, AZ
>RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
>Working on fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Tom
> if i understand your post correctly, your panel is sitting a little lower
> than the subpanel? if so you have nothing to worry about. the tip up canopy
> frame has an aluminum bar that will be in front of the top edge of the panel
> when closed. most people fill the canopy frame with foam and glass to stiffen
> the assembley which adds about 1/2 inch to the skin thickness and it will lay
Thanks to the folks who responded to my questions about the panel fit.
on the 6A tip-up. There were some good ideas there.
Now a question about stick grips: I saw a stick grip on a 6A not long
ago which intrigued me. It had a military look to it and the PTT switch
was a trigger on the forward side that you depress with the index
finger. I didn't get to ask the builder about it. I don't want a lot
of switches in the grip - just a push to talk. Does any one know where
I could find such a thing? Or perhaps if I could find just a trigger
style switch, I could incorporate into a plane vanilla grip.
--
Tom Sargent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Weigh job report |
While the discussion has died down on it, I thought I'd report on my weigh
job using a single borrowed feed scale (large rolling platform w/ 4 foot
tall balance beam on one end). The short version is: I got it weighed "good
enough" for legal and operational purposes - but I'd never do it again this
way and would NOT recommend it.
The major problem is that the scale's platform is 8 inches high. OK, no
problem, just build an 8 inch wooden platform for the other wheel. Done. Now
I've just got to get the wheels on them. Fine, I've got borrowed wing jacks.
Jack-up one wing to almost full extension and the wheels are only 7 inches
off the ground 'cause the gear unloads... and I'm real nervous about it
being balanced on this very looonngg jack (looks like a spear ready to
pierce the wing skins). Bad idea, so carefully lower the jack.
Plan B - ramps. Off to the local Walley World. $16.97 later I've got a pair
of 7.5 inch high steel auto ramps. Perfect. Well almost, got to remove the
wheel pants to clear the ramp's slope. Place the ramps behind the platform &
scale (beam end forward). Now how do I roll a 1000 lb airplane up the ramps?
Can't pull on the prop or push the tail with enough force to raise it. OK,
just put the ramps on the other side and pull it backward with a winch on
the tail wheel. Rut roh! that pesky beam is going to smash my leading edge.
Let's get creative... move the scale away, winch the plane onto the ramps.
With the tail low I can just slide the scale's beam between the leading edge
and the ramp. Roll the plane over the stops on the ramp and onto the scale &
platform, careful not to let it roll too far - should've put chocks on the
back!
Success! Now let's raise the tail. Put the tail stand on my bathroom (beam
type) scale. Oops, this thing is 8 inches higher than I've ever had it
before. Scrounge around to find blocks to get it level. Check level
laterally & longitudinally with a Smart Level (borrowed too - it's great to
have a dozen RV's on the field). Read and record the scales (and then do it
again with the canopy closed this time), measure and record the moment arms,
get the tare weights (chocks & tail stand) and I'm done. For one side. And I
get to do it all in reverse to prepare for the other side.
I'll leave it to your imagination how many times I weighed each side.
Officially, my empty weight is 1051 lbs. (O-360/CS, inverted, no paint or
interior). That's my number and I'm sticking with it... until it's painted
or there's another weighing party on the field. Did I mention that I don't
recommend this method? YMMV.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) DAR scheduled for 10am Wed.
________________________________________________________________________________
the stick grip is called an INFINITY STICK GRIP, comes in either right or
left hand. most aviation magazines advertize them.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
--- tom sargent wrote:
> Now a question about stick grips: I saw a stick grip on a 6A not
> long
> ago which intrigued me. It had a military look to it and the PTT
> switch
> was a trigger on the forward side that you depress with the index
> finger. I didn't get to ask the builder about it. I don't want a
> lot
> of switches in the grip - just a push to talk. Does any one know
> where
> I could find such a thing? Or perhaps if I could find just a trigger
> style switch, I could incorporate into a plane vanilla grip.
Sounds like an Infinity grip.
I doubt you'll find a grip with a trigger-style PTT without several
other switches coming along for the ride, package deal.
Read the following:
http://www.flash.net/~infaero/Safety.htm
and maybe you will change your views on those other switches...
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward (and Infinity grip wiring)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: behind the panel questions |
> Hi,
> On my 6 QB, slider, I'm laying out instruments and they interfere with
> the F 6107 L and F 6108 forward ribs. What do you guys do when this
> happens?
>
>Ed, I wanted my instruments centered.........yes, those ribs were in the
way. Here's what I did:
> The interference on the F 6108 center rib is only about 3" deep and I am
> considering making a little U shaped box around the instrument where the
> 6108 would be cut.
>My Skyforce went up top in the center: It's not that deep either so I
notched to 6108 and added an identically notched doubler plate on it with 6
or 7 rivets. Stronger than before.
>
> The F 6107 L is another story. My attitude indicator would interfere
> with it for a depth of about 7". I thought maybe I could substitute an F
> 6107 R for it and then just the bottom flange of that would be cut away
> and I could add a stiffener angle to the opposite side to make sort of a
> "Z" shaped rib. Or I could graft an opposite facing angle onto the
> portion of the rib aft of the sub-panel. I wouldn't be able to have a
> bottom flange on this piece unless it faced the other way - sort of a
> "Z" .
>
>Same problem for the same instrument: After I made the long cut on the 6107L
for the AI I was left with a long skinny rib (maybe 1 1/2" by10" - the
distance to the sub panel). I took a piece of 1 1/2" 'U' shaped aluminum
channel and ran it along the 6107L all the way through the sub panel (notched
the sub) to the firewall and alternated the rivets from one end to the other.
This baby is light and strong! I even cut a slot in the now modified 6107L
and it's 'U' doubler just above the AI and ran a hose clamp around the AI &
DG (with a hard rubber spacer between the two) for extra instrument support
(used a rubber sleeve for protection/vibration).
Very happy with the results!
> Any better ideas ? Or should I just find another place for my
> instruments?
Proceed as planed (IMHO).
Rick Gray RV6QB (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm - won't be long now
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Floor boards |
Eric,
Our mat will add about 2 pounds, actually, a pretty lightweight
solution for insulation. We suggest you cover it with a carpet (which we can
supply also). We offer a carpet that passes the FAR certification
requirements. Most carpets actually meet or exceed the FAR's, just haven't
been tested to that exact standard. With carpet you want to watch the weight
as most carpets are pretty heavy. Auto upholstery supply places usually have
some lightweight option. If the carpet is tested to some fire retardancy
standard, it is probably satisfactory. As experimental, we don't have to
meet FAR certification, but I do recommend using products that pass one of
the common fire certifications.
Becki Orndorff
Hey Becki,
Whats the weight added on an RV-6 using the panels? Also will the matts
hold up to people digging their heels into them while getting in and out?
Thanks
Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: From one of the "Paint Guys" |
Jim, I sanded the hell out of the wingtips and cleaned thoroughly with
urethane reducer, and still got fisheyes. The second time around I sanded the
hell out of them again and then scrubbed the hell out of them 3 times with
laquer thinner, all while wearing surgical gloves. No fish eyes this time. So
now that problem is solved and I go to the airport and find fuel is seeping
out around the -6 bulkhead 90 fitting in my left tank. Does the fun ever
start?
Kevin -9A
31.2 hours
grounded for inspection
> Man! Just when you think you got folks going good....
> To answer kevin's questions first.... ALWAYS, Always,
> Always...chemically clean the repair area BEFORE you start. As you
> found out, Pledge is 80% silicone base. Sanding and washing doesn't get
> it off. Sanding just drives it deeper into the finish. If your dry
> hand sanding I'd never recommend anything more course than 320 Grit
> followed by 600 wet sand. Chemically clean between each step.
> We use "Final Wash" to clean the work.
> As far buffing and polishing, after the finish has cured, wet sand
> starting with 600 to 1000 depending on the blemish and the Mils of
> color applied. Follow that with 1500 - 2000. Now your ready to start
> compounding. We use a 3 stage compound process, then a 2 stage polish.
> Wiping each stage off and changing our foam pad between each stage (grit).
> For "fish-eyes", we rarely have a problem because of filtered booth air
> and filtered compressed air. Most of the defects that occur, happen due
> to contaminated compressed air( oil and water condensation mainly).
> "Fish-eye Eliminator" is different for every brand and type so, use what
> is recommended by the maker. Imron FE doesn't work in Randolph, PPG
> won't work with Omni and so on.
> If you do have to use FE,use it sparingly, then just clean your gun with
> "wash thinner" and you're go to go for the next job. Several things to
> be aware of though, FE "slightly softens the topcoat in order to flow
> over the defect, and if it flows over a defect it's not really binding
> to the substraints.
> Generally if we get a really bad area of "fishies" we stop, let it cure,
> and clean, clean, clean. Sometimes a long time contaminate(like AFFF on
> crash trucks and Jet A) has migrated to the substraint so you gotta take
> it down to a virgin coat or base and bring it back out.
> I keep hearing some folks using Enamel Reducer to clean Urethane
> repairs. Not a real good idea. Although it will clean, it also softens
> the repair area and will lead to scratch raising or worse. Use what is
> recommended and or what is compatible with the product your using.
>
> Whew!...Hope this helps some.
>
> Jim Duckett, RV-7A (yea, yea wheel in front!)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCN44257(at)aol.com |
Hello All,
For those that have to weigh their planes for weight & balance try to find
a local stock car driver. Many of these dirver/car builders have a set of 4
electronic scales to weight the 4 corners of the car. I am sure you could
hire or rent the scales from them. This equipment will show the individual
wheel weight and the total. The scale are about 3 inches high and are of the
strain gage/load cell type.
One more thing. Myself and 2 other member of our local chapter spent the
weekend at OSH as volunteer help. If you are driving to OSH from the West be
advised WI. hwy 26 is closed in Rosendale. Follow why 151 to US 41 at Fond du
Lac and take 41 north.
Karl Rigdon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-9 floorboards |
| From: | "John Allen" <fliier(at)onebox.com> |
To create a flat floor in my RV-6A I purchased a couple sheets of DIVINYCEL
FOAM from Aircraft Spruce in 3/8" thickness . I then cut out sections
to fit between the floor stiffeners, two pieces stacked together between
each stiffener. After the pieces were cut out I mixed up some FLOX (Epoxy
mixed with flocked cotton) and squeegeed it all over the pieces so that
they had a hard shell to prevent indentations and absorption of spilled
fluids. I laid a single layer of cloth over the spot where my heel rests.
The idea of having two layers was so that the top set of boards could
attached to the carpet and the bottom set could attached to the floor.
It turns out that was not a very practical idea. I will probably go back
and glue the pieces together.
Spruce advertises this foam as having a high fire resistance. Prior
to installation I tested a piece with the propane torch and found that
it would not burn. CAUTION!!! It IS made of PVC, so there are likely
some toxic gases given off when it is exposed to flame. (I do fly with
EVAC-U8 smoke hoods in the airplane). I had to weigh this against some
of the other products with less fire retardency (that blue foam camping
mat stuff burns very well).
The end result was a very light, very flat floor. The floor is quite
stiff and there is some movement between the sandwiched boards. I doubt
it has the same sound or vibration-damping properties as some of the
heavier options.
Overall I am pleased. For me the upside of light weight, low cost and
relative ease of fabrication offsets the downside of high stiffness and
lower sound dampening.
John Allen
RV-6A flying
Sign Up Now! http://www.onebox.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
Ogre,
I have a diagram and diagnoistic information for the ND alternator.
This alternator is used quite extensively on Japanese vehicles. Most
are in the 30A output range.
My Scanner is down so I'll try to take pictures of the manual and
e-mail them to you. If it doesn't work, I'll just copy them and send
them to you by snail mail. Everything I have is by terminal designation
rather than wire color. The pictorial is pretty easy to follow to
relate terminal to wire color.
Jim Duckett, RV 7-A
Performance Engineering
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ray sheffield" <1052a(at)prodigy.net> |
Wanted rv8 tail kit, prefer unstarted.
Jack Bombard
sc
jtb1(at)prodigy.net
803 663 6415
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Wicks-customer service |
Van's always refers to those as "snap-in plastic bushings" don't they?
-----Original Message-----
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com [mailto:ABAYMAN(at)aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2001 6:29 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wicks-customer service
what do you call the plastic grommet that fits on the
baffles to pass the 2
ignition wires through? can't look it up in the on line
cataloge, if i don't
know what they call it.
scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
Speaking of scales,
our EAA Chapter just purchased a set of Stock Car Scales with our windfall
monies from sponsoring the EAA B-17. I believe we purchased them from Summit
Racing. Scales and wiring are very rugged and have a low profile (approx. 4
inches). Price
was around $1500. Our first member to weigh his RV6 was very impressed with
them.
If your EAA Chapter can afford them, it is a very good investment for a
Chapter
with a lot of builders.
If anyone wants the details on the scales, email me off line.
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
> -----Original Message-----
> From: TCN44257(at)aol.com [SMTP:TCN44257(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2001 8:11 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Weight and OSH
>
>
> Hello All,
> For those that have to weigh their planes for weight & balance try to
> find
> a local stock car driver. Many of these dirver/car builders have a set of
> 4
> electronic scales to weight the 4 corners of the car. I am sure you could
> hire or rent the scales from them. This equipment will show the individual
>
> wheel weight and the total. The scale are about 3 inches high and are of
> the
> strain gage/load cell type.
> One more thing. Myself and 2 other member of our local chapter spent the
>
> weekend at OSH as volunteer help. If you are driving to OSH from the West
> be
> advised WI. hwy 26 is closed in Rosendale. Follow why 151 to US 41 at Fond
> du
> Lac and take 41 north.
>
> Karl Rigdon
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Hey Jack,
Call 503-678-6545. Talk to a guy name Van or one of the folks he hangs out with.
I'm sure they got one laying around somewhere..... ;-)
Laird
RV-6 270hrs
SoCal
Wanted rv8 tail kit, prefer unstarted.
Jack Bombard
sc
jtb1(at)prodigy.net
803 663 6415
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
>
I've a couple dings in the back of my wood prop. The two bigger ones measure
about 1/4" long, 1/8" wide, and maybe a bit more than 1/16th" deep.
Any thoughts on repairing them? Can they be filled with some epoxy or micro?
Should the inner surface of the ding be sanded smooth to eliminate stress
cracks from forming (like on a metal part), or left rough for better adhesion
of the filler?
Thanks,
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | david <davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae> |
| Subject: | RV6A - Seat ribs to F604 |
Greetings,
I note from the drawing 31 that the ribs should be attached to the F604 by
using c/s AN426AD3 at a pitch of 1". Looking at the photo's supplied with
the plans, this is not strictly the case. I have pilot drilled mine with a
1" pitch but have missed out the area where the spar cap plates would align
on the F604. Has anyone else done this? Also, why does there seem to be a
need for -3 c/s rivets for these ribs to F604 flanges? There seems to be no
need for c/s and everywhere else universal -4's are used to connect ribs etc
to bulkhead. I would be happier with -4's. Has anyone else experienced this?
RV6A Fuselage
Persian Gulf
VERY, VERY HOT/HUMID = HORRIBLE: 110 degrees plus 95% humidity - Glad my
shop is air-conditioned.
David Roseblade
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Laird's induction |
Damn, beat me to it. Laird, you are now officially a member of the list
smart ass association. We're a small but dedicated group. Grand master
poobah is Eric Henson. You will find, after great study and practice making
fun of losers who get bent out of shape over nothing that you get quite a
bit of enjoyment out of other people's mistakes or misfortunes. Anything
you can contribute would be appreciated as we are all overworked.
The smart ass association's newest saying is 'I'll be your daisy'. You
should use it often. Before you ask - NO, none of us have the slightest
idea what it means. You should use it however whenever meeting one of your
fellow smart ass' (or is it asses, or even assi?). In any event using it in
context goes something like this:
"Hi Eric, glad to see you, how's that -6 coming? Want a beer?"
"No Bill, but thanks for offering, I'll have a fuzzy naval (puke) instead if
you got one"
"Uh, sorry Eric...how about a rum and coke? Got some Captain Morgans over
there"
"No thanks...I'll just have a diet coke, no caffeine please...makes me
edgy..then I have to kill someone, it's a Marine thing"
"Ok, tough guy...here's your drink...want a tissue with that...or maybe a
Midol for your cramps?"
"Hey, leave me alone, or I'll be your daisy...sure wish I had built an RV-4
instead"
Hope that helps....like I said, we don't know what it means either.
Thanks
Bill
-4 wings
>
> Hey Jack,
>
> Call 503-678-6545. Talk to a guy name Van or one of the folks he hangs
out with. I'm sure they got one laying around somewhere..... ;-)
>
> Laird
> RV-6 270hrs
> SoCal
>
>
> Wanted rv8 tail kit, prefer unstarted.
>
> Jack Bombard
> sc
> jtb1(at)prodigy.net
> 803 663 6415
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Laird's induction |
--- Bill Shook wrote:
> You should use it however whenever meeting one of your
> fellow smart ass' (or is it asses, or even assi?).
Ummm... not to be a smart ass or anything, "ass'" would be the
possessive. Some would use "ass's" - depends. Now your plural _would_
be "asses".
:)
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Laird's induction |
Mike, you are hereby inducted as well. That makes you one of us asses. :-)
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Thompson" <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2001 4:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Laird's induction
>
>
> --- Bill Shook wrote:
> > You should use it however whenever meeting one of your
> > fellow smart ass' (or is it asses, or even assi?).
>
> Ummm... not to be a smart ass or anything, "ass'" would be the
> possessive. Some would use "ass's" - depends. Now your plural _would_
> be "asses".
>
> :)
>
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Firewall Forward
>
>
> ====
> Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
> Austin, TX, USA
> RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
> EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
> PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ND Alternator |
OH, THANK you kind sir...more on personal e-mail...
Jim Duckett wrote:
>
> Ogre,
> I have a diagram and diagnoistic information for the ND alternator.
> This alternator is used quite extensively on Japanese vehicles. Most
> are in the 30A output range.
> My Scanner is down so I'll try to take pictures of the manual and
> e-mail them to you. If it doesn't work, I'll just copy them and send
> them to you by snail mail. Everything I have is by terminal designation
> rather than wire color. The pictorial is pretty easy to follow to
> relate terminal to wire color.
>
> Jim Duckett, RV 7-A
> Performance Engineering
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCN44257(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Weight and OSH |
Yes I think the grade crossing will be finished however you are not going to
get through Rosendale. I am sure you will have to go East on 151 to 41 North
at Fond du Lac.
Karl Rigdon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Laird's induction |
In a message dated 7/11/01 12:00:15 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
billshook(at)earthlink.net writes:
> "Hi Eric, glad to see you, how's that -6 coming? Want a beer?"
> "No Bill, but thanks for offering, I'll have a fuzzy naval (puke) instead if
> you got one"
> "Uh, sorry Eric...how about a rum and coke? Got some Captain Morgans over
> there"
> "No thanks...I'll just have a diet coke, no caffeine please...makes me
> edgy..then I have to kill someone, it's a Marine thing"
> "Ok, tough guy...here's your drink...want a tissue with that...or maybe a
> Midol for your cramps?"
> "Hey, leave me alone, or I'll be your daisy...sure wish I had built an RV-4
> instead"
>
> Hope that helps....like I said, we don't know what it means either.
>
> Thanks
> Bill
> -4 wings
>
>
>
Hell this makes totally clear sense to me!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com> |
| Subject: | starter / master selenoid |
Fellow Listers,
What is the purpose of the diodes which are put onto the starter and master
selenoids (contactors)?
Follow up:
a) If they are important, why don't the selenoids come with them? (I know
electric Bob's do but nobody elses does, and it seems that you don't have to
have them).
b) Can you put diodes on one of them and not the other?
c) what is the correct hook up?
d) are the diodes different for the two different selenoids (continuous vs
intermettent duty)?
e) I bought some from Vans a few months back, now I have this red colored
wire and I don't know where it goes... is the red one and yellow one
different?.
Hope its ok that I ask a building question ;-)
jim
Tampa
FWF 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: starter/master solenoid/contactor |
In a message dated 7/11/01 7:09:16 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com writes:
<< What is the purpose of the diodes which are put onto the starter and master
solenoids (contactors)?>>
They allow a very short path for the collapsing electromagnetic flux field to
travel when you de-energize the contactor. This substantially reduces the
pitting that will be experienced in the controlling switch (relatively
inexpensive master switch for the master contactor, more expensive starter
switch contacts for the starter contactor) contacts.
<< Follow up:
a) If they are important, why don't the solenoids come with them? (I know
electric Bob's do but nobody else's does, and it seems that you don't have to
have them).>>
Because they rely on good engineers to come up with good designs. Many good
circuit components require the presence of other surrounding components to
bias, balance and control their use. To be fair, many relays are available
with internal diodes, however if the diode jumps the shark, you have to throw
the whole enchilada out.
<< b) Can you put diodes on one of them and not the other?>>
If you prefer to protect one switch and not the other. It's your money.
<< c) what is the correct hook up?>>
Look at the circuit and think about it. The diode is merely a check valve
for electrical current, in that it flows current when it is forward biased
and not when it is reverse biased. Imagine hooking it up so that the more
positive EMF is on the anode (non-banded terminal). In this case conditions
will be forward biasing the diode and it will quickly become toast. Reverse
it so that the more positive EMF will be on the cathode (banded terminal) and
it will do it's job properly.
<< d) are the diodes different for the two different solenoids (continuous vs
intermittent duty)?>>
Not necessarily. Diodes can be the same if they are chosen conservatively.
They may have different terminals on the ends if you buy the Van's P/Ns
(which I recommend). They will work with the good quality contactors that
Van's sells.
<< e) I bought some from Vans a few months back, now I have this red colored
wire and I don't know where it goes... is the red one and yellow one
different?. >>
Probably the same diode but as above they are set up differently because the
contactors are different. The starter contactor is keyed on by applying +12V
(via your starter switch) to the coil terminal of the starter contactor
(should have cathode end of diode at this terminal also and then the anode
end to ground). The master contactor is keyed on by applying ground (via
your master switch) to the coil terminal of the master contactor (should have
the anode end of diode at this terminal also and then the cathode to the
large terminal marked +BAT)
You're probably a good candidate for AeroElectric Connection class. I highly
recommend it and the book.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | f4av8r(at)netscape.net |
RV-4 kit for sale: Excellent workmanship, Phlogiston spar, tinted canopy option,
reduced for quick sale, very near "QB" stage, all sub-kits-tailwheel to spinner.
$9500 firm. 512-328-3631(D), 512-892-8895(E).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: starter / master selenoid |
The purpose of the diodes on the relays is to effectively 'short out' the
induced voltage that results when you shut off the current through the coil.
The collapsing field induces a large 'spike' of voltage while it decays and
can damage the coil. The diode prevents that by shorting out the transient
inducted voltage.
You may never have a problem if you don't use the diode...many relays have
worked literally for decades without this protection, but since they cost a
few cents it only makes cents to use one....particularly in aircraft.
John Salida,. CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: starter / master selenoid |
In a message dated 7/11/01 7:09:16 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jnorman(at)InterMapSystems.com writes:
<< Jim Norman, MD >>
Jeez Jim, I almost fell out of my chair when I saw and actual "building"
question on the list. Don't know if this will help but the diodes I just
received from Van's came one with blue sleeving and one with yellow sleeving.
Both have a red band on one end and they came with a little diagram showing
their correct hookup. The blue one goes with the starter relay with the red
band to the control terminal. The yellow goes with the master relay and the
red band goes to the "BAT" terminal. The ones I received have different size
lugs on each end which should make it hard to screw up (but I'm sure I'll
find a way). The purpose of the diodes is to minimize arcing across the
contacts when the relays open. Like I said, I hope this helps.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ND Alternator |
Jim, what's the name of the manual and who publishes it?
Is it available to shade tree mechanics? This would be a good addition to
the Home Wing tool bank.
...3rivers.net? Are you in the Longview/Kelso (Washington) area?
Mike
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Aurora, OR (With ND alternator)
>
>OH, THANK you kind sir...more on personal e-mail...
>
>Jim Duckett wrote:
>
> >
> > Ogre,
> > I have a diagram and diagnoistic information for the ND alternator.
> > This alternator is used quite extensively on Japanese vehicles. Most
> > are in the 30A output range.
> > My Scanner is down so I'll try to take pictures of the manual and
> > e-mail them to you. If it doesn't work, I'll just copy them and send
> > them to you by snail mail. Everything I have is by terminal designation
> > rather than wire color. The pictorial is pretty easy to follow to
> > relate terminal to wire color.
> >
> > Jim Duckett, RV 7-A
> > Performance Engineering
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | RV6A - Seat ribs to F604 |
Both my plans and my RV-6A are at the airport. From memory, though, aren't
the countersunk rivets at the places where the wing spar has to slide across
when you insert it into the fuselage? In other words, if the rivets had
round heads, the wing spar would not fit tightly against the F-604 bulkhead.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
-----Original Message-----
From: david [mailto:davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae]
Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2001 2:44 PM
To: RV List
Subject: RV-List: RV6A - Seat ribs to F604
Greetings,
I note from the drawing 31 that the ribs should be attached
to the F604 by
using c/s AN426AD3 at a pitch of 1". Looking at the photo's
supplied with
the plans, this is not strictly the case. I have pilot
drilled mine with a
1" pitch but have missed out the area where the spar cap
plates would align
on the F604. Has anyone else done this? Also, why does there
seem to be a
need for -3 c/s rivets for these ribs to F604 flanges? There
seems to be no
need for c/s and everywhere else universal -4's are used to
connect ribs etc
to bulkhead. I would be happier with -4's. Has anyone else
experienced this?
RV6A Fuselage
Persian Gulf
VERY, VERY HOT/HUMID = HORRIBLE: 110 degrees plus 95%
humidity - Glad my
shop is air-conditioned.
David Roseblade
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Wick's Customer Service |
FWIW, I e-mailed a bunch of everybody's positive comments about Wicks to
them. They were most appreciative. I couldn't help but wonder if the other
aircraft supply house which was used as a bad example is aware of people's
dissatisfaction. I can't believe that a business that has many competitors
and a very narrow clientele would knowingly irritate that clientele to the
point they would stop using their services.
Just a thought. If some of you have complained and been ignored, then flame
away!
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A N143DJ
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy spacers |
In a message dated 7/11/01 12:40:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
dford(at)michweb.net writes:
<< I'm wondering what has been used as a spacer between Plexiglas and
canopy frame? Aluminum squares, circles, nylon? I have gaps to fill
.030 to 3/16 and wondered what others have used?
Dave Ford >>
I tried the nylon spacers. Did not like the appearance as I also had at least
3/16" to fill in the "shoulder" area on the slider frame where the spacers
are very visible. The black nylon looked better than the white but I could
not find the black in the thickness I needed.
Not satisfied, I reworked the whole thing using the nylon spacers to get the
proper spacing and then filled the entire gap using West System epoxy thicken
with cotton flox. (Much like Jim Cone did on the top frame member where he
had a similar problem.) I used the brown packaging tape to mask the canopy in
the contact area and the epoxy released from it very nicely. The slider frame
was sanded down to bare metal just prior to applying the epoxy to get max.
adhesion. Had to touchup a couple of areas on the epoxy before repainting the
slider frame/epoxy filler but now the frame looks like it was made that way.
Have had people ask where I got metal tube shaped that way -now U shaped
rather than O.
It was a lot of extra work! But Van's people just tell you to "make it
work". (Hope they have corrected this problem on the 7!)
Dale Ensing 6AQB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wick's Customer Service |
--- Jim Bower wrote:
>
> FWIW, I e-mailed a bunch of everybody's positive comments about Wicks
> to them. They were most appreciative.
...and some 'glass builder out there has my fittings.
I was amused after reading all these posts to have a phone call on my
machine yesterday from Wicks. They said the box I would receive today
(yesterday) was an order mixed up with another person - _they_ had _my_
order. The labels were right, but my firewall forward fittings and
misc. stuff had turned into resin and activator.
They asked me to leave the box on the front porch, that UPS would pick
it up today, and they are sending another order to me overnight. They
were most apologetic.
Can't complain...
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: That annoying drip drip drip |
Last time I had that problem I simply got a penicillin shot. My fuel leak
turned out to be the left tank access cover plate. Did I listen to those who
had been there and done that and said to pro- seal that son of a bee-ach on
there? NO
do I wish I had listened
YES
So to all of you who have your wings just sitting there in a handy little
wing rack now would be a good time to PRO SEAL THOSE FUC*&)NG THINGS ON
THERE! Instead of waiting till the plane is flying, and you miss out on two
days of beautiful weather laying on the hangar floor with avgas dripping on
your face listening to all your friends out flying around having a blast
I humbly accept all the I told you so's which are forthcoming
Kevin -9A
conquered the fisheyes,
might get to fly it again soon....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Are Barstad <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Alignment of trailing edge on wings |
After seeing 100'eds of RV's I have noticed that many of them have the aileron
trailing edge lined up with the flap trailing edge. What is more rare to see is
an aileron aligned with the wing tip. From looking at the construction, there
is not really a lot we can do as opposed to the elevators and rudder where we
have good control by adjusting rod-end's.
Is there something I can do to be proactive in getting this lined up? I hate to
find out first when installing the tip that I could have done something simple
that now is too late.
For the few of you who does have a close-to-perfect line, did you modify the tip?
(most I see seem to have a tip that sticks out further aft than the control
surfaces). Or is there something else we can do?
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AV8TURDON(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ACS Customer Service |
Hey hey Good job
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
Rough the area lightly with sandpaper,clean with thinner,fill with JB
Weld,smooth and sand the next day.Worked for me.Still good a lot of
hours and 2 years later.Hope this helps.
Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy spacers |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
11:55:42 AM
Dale, I'm contemplating this right now. So the epoxy encapsulates the
washer/spacers? Did you do this with it clecoed in place or wait till the
end when the canopy was screwed and countersuk? Last thing, where the heck
do you find any nylon washers that size. I tried Sears, Lowes, and HD and
only metal ones.
Thanks
Eric
DWENSING(at)aol.com@matronics.com on 07/12/2001 09:19:15 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy spacers
In a message dated 7/11/01 12:40:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
dford(at)michweb.net writes:
<< I'm wondering what has been used as a spacer between Plexiglas and
canopy frame? Aluminum squares, circles, nylon? I have gaps to fill
.030 to 3/16 and wondered what others have used?
Dave Ford >>
I tried the nylon spacers. Did not like the appearance as I also had at
least
3/16" to fill in the "shoulder" area on the slider frame where the spacers
are very visible. The black nylon looked better than the white but I could
not find the black in the thickness I needed.
Not satisfied, I reworked the whole thing using the nylon spacers to get
the
proper spacing and then filled the entire gap using West System epoxy
thicken
with cotton flox. (Much like Jim Cone did on the top frame member where he
had a similar problem.) I used the brown packaging tape to mask the canopy
in
the contact area and the epoxy released from it very nicely. The slider
frame
was sanded down to bare metal just prior to applying the epoxy to get max.
adhesion. Had to touchup a couple of areas on the epoxy before repainting
the
slider frame/epoxy filler but now the frame looks like it was made that
way.
Have had people ask where I got metal tube shaped that way -now U shaped
rather than O.
It was a lot of extra work! But Van's people just tell you to "make it
work". (Hope they have corrected this problem on the 7!)
Dale Ensing 6AQB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
12:04:16 PM
Hey 1500 pluss RV-lister builders, I believe this Wicks Customer Service
string may have had a suprising effect. A few months ago I posted a little
message to the list about some trouble I was having with Aircraft Spruce
and a return order. This was several months ago. Today , out of the blue,I
got an e-mail from Jim Irwin GM of ACS regarding my experiences with ACS.
He was personally assuring me that I would have no further problems with my
order and that he would personally put things right. I have not e-mailed
Spruce from this e-mail, he could have only gotten my comments from the
RV-List Archives. So Jim, if you are reading this, thank you very much sir,
way to respond to your customers. As we all know you can get it right 999
times but you're always going to hear back from the one that fell through
the cracks.
Eric Henson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <DonH(at)axonn.com> |
| Subject: | Alignment of trailing edge on wings |
I just took a belt sander to the fiberglass, and removed between 1/8" and
1/4". I can't remember, but I probably asked somebody or looked in the
archives before I got so brave, but it was pretty easy, and once I started
measuring I noticed that the trailing edges of the tips weren't even
straight until I trimmed them. When I was done, the trailing edge was nice
and straight, and I even got the profile to be a pretty good match.
There was a lot of material to work with at the trailing edge, and I didn't
come anywhere near to sanding it all off.
I'm beginning to understand that we need to look on that glass stuff as
plastic... Bend it, sand it, cut it, fill it, whatever it takes to look
good, mostly it's not very important structurally.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Are Barstad [mailto:abarstad(at)sympatico.ca]
> Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2001 10:33 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Alignment of trailing edge on wings
>
>
>
> After seeing 100'eds of RV's I have noticed that many of them
> have the aileron trailing edge lined up with the flap
> trailing edge. What is more rare to see is an aileron aligned
> with the wing tip. From looking at the construction, there is
> not really a lot we can do as opposed to the elevators and
> rudder where we have good control by adjusting rod-end's.
>
> Is there something I can do to be proactive in getting this
> lined up? I hate to find out first when installing the tip
> that I could have done something simple that now is too late.
>
> For the few of you who does have a close-to-perfect line, did
> you modify the tip? (most I see seem to have a tip that
> sticks out further aft than the control surfaces). Or is
> there something else we can do?
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy spacers |
The keyword, here, is nylon "spacers". If they carry them at Scotty's,
anyone should have them.
don not archive
Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
>
>
> Dale, I'm contemplating this right now. So the epoxy encapsulates the
> washer/spacers? Did you do this with it clecoed in place or wait till the
> end when the canopy was screwed and countersuk? Last thing, where the heck
> do you find any nylon washers that size. I tried Sears, Lowes, and HD and
> only metal ones.
>
> Thanks
>
> Eric
>
> DWENSING(at)aol.com@matronics.com on 07/12/2001 09:19:15 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> cc:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy spacers
>
>
> In a message dated 7/11/01 12:40:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> dford(at)michweb.net writes:
>
> << I'm wondering what has been used as a spacer between Plexiglas and
> canopy frame? Aluminum squares, circles, nylon? I have gaps to fill
> .030 to 3/16 and wondered what others have used?
>
> Dave Ford >>
> I tried the nylon spacers.>snip| Date: | Jul 12, 2001 |
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alignment of trailing edge of aileron with wingtip |
Are--
There should be a note in the archives about this and the corrective
action taken, but I guess I didn't use the right combo of search words.
If I remember correctly, the ailerons lined up vertically with the flaps
but not one wingtip. The fellow measured the degree of error. Then he
cut (split horizontally) the back-side and trailing edges with a Dremel.
Filled the cut areas with epoxy and clamped the wingtip in a jig he
made up to correct the offset (so many degrees opposite the original
offset error). When the epoxy was cure he filled the cut line with
filler, sanded, repainted and put the wingtip back on.
Boyd Braem
Are Barstad wrote:
>
>
> After seeing 100'eds of RV's I have noticed that many of them have the aileron
trailing edge lined up with the flap trailing edge. What is more rare to see
is an aileron aligned with the wing tip. From looking at the construction, there
is not really a lot we can do as opposed to the elevators and rudder where
we have good control by adjusting rod-end's.
>
> Is there something I can do to be proactive in getting this lined up? I hate
to find out first when installing the tip that I could have done something simple
that now is too late.
>
> For the few of you who does have a close-to-perfect line, did you modify the
tip? (most I see seem to have a tip that sticks out further aft than the control
surfaces). Or is there something else we can do?
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alignment of trailing edge on wings |
In a message dated Thu, 12 Jul 2001 11:36:45 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Are Barstad
writes:
After seeing 100'eds of RV's I have noticed that many of them have the aileron
trailing edge lined up with the flap trailing edge. What is more rare to see is
an aileron aligned with the wing tip. From looking at the construction, there
is not really a lot we can do as opposed to the elevators and rudder where we
have good control by adjusting rod-end's.
Is there something I can do to be proactive in getting this lined up? I hate to
find out first when installing the tip that I could have done something simple
that now is too late.
For the few of you who does have a close-to-perfect line, did you modify the tip?
(most I see seem to have a tip that sticks out further aft than the control
surfaces). Or is there something else we can do?>>
The aileron surface is the least flexible in terms of longitudinal positioning.
It mounts in a fixed way to the rear spar. The wing tip, once it is pulled
up tight in the leading edge area, can be sanded or extended at the TE to align
with the aileron TE because it is FRP. The flap TE position can be adjusted
with the hinge width (wider hinges than supplied are available if needed) and
positioned to align with the aileron TE prior to riveting.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Canopy spacers
Thread-Index: AcEK+rvahH+aE9bCTqqnvfs1hYcOEAAAH8QQ
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
IMHO the spacers on the canopy aren't necessary, even if things aren't
even. The sliding portion of my canopy was 3/16" higher in one spot
than the canopy, but with the fiberglass covering the gap between the
two even a trained eye (me) can't tell that they don't match.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 175 hours
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com [mailto:Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com]
> Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2001 10:52 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy spacers
>
>
>
>
> Dale, I'm contemplating this right now. So the epoxy encapsulates the
> washer/spacers? Did you do this with it clecoed in place or
> wait till the
> end when the canopy was screwed and countersuk? Last thing,
> where the heck
> do you find any nylon washers that size. I tried Sears,
> Lowes, and HD and
> only metal ones.
>
> Thanks
>
> Eric
>
>
> DWENSING(at)aol.com@matronics.com on 07/12/2001 09:19:15 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> cc:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy spacers
>
>
>
> In a message dated 7/11/01 12:40:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> dford(at)michweb.net writes:
>
> << I'm wondering what has been used as a spacer between Plexiglas and
> canopy frame? Aluminum squares, circles, nylon? I have gaps to fill
> .030 to 3/16 and wondered what others have used?
>
> Dave Ford >>
> I tried the nylon spacers. Did not like the appearance as I
> also had at
> least
> 3/16" to fill in the "shoulder" area on the slider frame
> where the spacers
> are very visible. The black nylon looked better than the
> white but I could
> not find the black in the thickness I needed.
> Not satisfied, I reworked the whole thing using the nylon
> spacers to get
> the
> proper spacing and then filled the entire gap using West System epoxy
> thicken
> with cotton flox. (Much like Jim Cone did on the top frame
> member where he
> had a similar problem.) I used the brown packaging tape to
> mask the canopy
> in
> the contact area and the epoxy released from it very nicely.
> The slider
> frame
> was sanded down to bare metal just prior to applying the
> epoxy to get max.
> adhesion. Had to touchup a couple of areas on the epoxy
> before repainting
> the
> slider frame/epoxy filler but now the frame looks like it was
> made that
> way.
> Have had people ask where I got metal tube shaped that way
> -now U shaped
> rather than O.
> It was a lot of extra work! But Van's people just tell you
> to "make it
> work". (Hope they have corrected this problem on the 7!)
> Dale Ensing 6AQB
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com> |
Tail kit, wing kit, and fuselage kit.
Tail complete minus fiberglass, firewall, spars, and F-604 completed.
Everything primered inside. A&P IA built in Wichita Kansas. Must sale due to
buying nearly completed RV-4..
Can build to suit for you (help you that is). Asking $8300.00. Please
contact me online or offline at 316-721-5670 or 316-210-5670(cell) and ask
for Todd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 JIG FOR FREE!! |
RV-4 jig is yours for free. Pick up in Wichita Kansas.Contact me online or
offline at 316-721-5670 or 316-210-5670(cell) and ask for Todd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 JIG FOR FREE!! |
RV-4 jig is yours for free. Pick up in Wichita Kansas.Contact me online or
offline at 316-721-5670 or 316-210-5670(cell) and ask for Todd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 FOR SALE |
Todd, will you sell the -6 Fuselage Kit by itself?
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM (res) Building Flaps
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
>
> Tail kit, wing kit, and fuselage kit.
> Tail complete minus fiberglass, firewall, spars, and F-604 completed.
> Everything primered inside. A&P IA built in Wichita Kansas. Must sale due
to
> buying nearly completed RV-4..
> Can build to suit for you (help you that is). Asking $8300.00. Please
> contact me online or offline at 316-721-5670 or 316-210-5670(cell) and ask
> for Todd.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Whelen Strobe Wiring |
| From: | "Ed O'Connor" <edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com> |
I am installing the terminals for my Whelen Strobes and need to know the
wiring order for the color wires which plug into the central power supply.
The drawing on top states Pin #1 is Anode and Pin #2 is Cathode and Pin #3
is Trigger. The Power supply is the A413AHDA-CF-14/28 The wire cable I
purchased with power supply is Red, Black, Clear and an unshielded Ground
wire. The strobes have corresponding color wires attached to them. I just
can't figure out which color I should plug into which hole on the three pin
plastic connector they furnished.
Can anyone on list offer their expertise. Thanks in advance. E-mail off
line if you desire to < Edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com >. I only get the
digest list the day after they are all compiled.
Ed O'Connor/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City, FL
N366RV
RV-8/ working on fuselage installing ELT and Strobes behind Baggage
Compartment. Landing Gear is next.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jordan Grant" <JordanGrant(at)bigfoot.com> |
If I understand your problem right, I think you need to also take a look at
the placement of the outboard-most seat and baggage compartment ribs and
their attachment to the F-605. If there is no problem with those, you should
be OK. I'm only partway through with my fuselage, but I'm told that the
lateral position of the seat belt anchors is not critical, so moving the
whole anchor in 1/4" or so should be no big deal.
Jordan Grant
Jigging aft fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: Graham Murphy <jgmurphy(at)xtra.co.nz>
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2001 4:51 AM
Subject: RV-List: F-605C
>
> Folks
>
> Whilst making the F-605 Bulkhead with my brain at half mast I trimmed
> the F-605C straps to their 12 1/2 inch length by cutting material off
> the inbd end, so the 2.0" length of the outbd flat area is 2 1/4 'not
> 2.0" per the drawings. This results in the two "kinks" being 0.25"
> further inbd than they should be. So guess I had better make some new
> ones. Mind youthis keeps my outbd 3/16 dia bolt hole some 7/16" from the
> outbd kink, which I like structurally.
>
> But before I do, has anybody else made this booboo and gone ahead and
> fitted them anyway?? The immediate consequence is insufficient flat
> space for the outbd seat belt fittings, but I believe there is a
> potential way around that. Seems to me that the 3/16 bolts attaching the
> seat belt fittings should be as close together as prtacticable, that way
> bending stresses in the fitting flanges are minimised under load. I
> propose them at 1.0 inch apart, i.e. 0.5" either side of C/L (I am
> assuming an 1/8" gap between fittings).
> I have checked that at this pitch that there is sufficient room on the
> flange for the bolt head to not foul the radius, and enable a socket to
> fit.
> This in turn means that the flanges can be trimmed by at least 3/16" per
> side, bringing the total assembled flange width down to approx 1.875,
> which JUST fits. The geometry is tricky due to the kink not being truly
> vertical so the top outer corner is the worst foul point.
>
> I can then fit my seat belt fittings on the available flat space, and
> have room for an AN42-AD4 rivet just before the kink. I can do this
> maintaining min fastener pitch of 4* mean dia pitch i.e. 5/8" between
> the 3/16 bolt and 1/8" rivet.
>
> This also ensures that the seat belt fitting outer bolt and the adjacent
> rivet clear the flange on the F-605D Channel.
>
> I suspect that the best solution is a compromise of all the above
> dimensions, making new F-605C Bars.
>
> Questions;
> 1. Has anybody installed the F-605C Bars after cutting them wrong like
> me, and how did it work out ?
>
> 2. What spacing are listers using for the seat belt fitting attachent
> bolts?
>
>
> For those of you wondering why i am building fuselage components at this
> stage, it is 'cause I cant fit any wing or fuselage jigs in my current
> wshop, so i am making as many subasssys as possible. The wshop gets
> extended later this year after her dishwasher and another 300 Olive
> trees...
>
> Looking fwd to your responses
>
> Graham Murphy
> RV-6A bits & pieces
> Frosty but sunny Blenheim.
> New Zealand.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Winters <dtw_rv6(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Every Man A Tiger |
I wonder if anyone has tried to mount a laser detector on the rear of their RV,
and a low wattage laser in the front?
How about paintball cannons in the wings?
Don Winters
Rick Caldwell wrote:
>
> Since there was some interest on flying overhead approaches on this list
> recently, I thought I'd point those interested on where you can really get
> the low down. Read the book "Every man A Tiger" by Frank O'Brien. I'm just
> finishing it. Found it at the library, of all places. It covers close
> formation in great detail. He breaks it down in sections for every phase of
> flight. Formation take-offs to overhead approaches, to landings. Then
> there's a chapter on tactical formation. After flying wing with other RV's,
> I wondered how does this work when someone is trying to shoot you. Now I
NetZero Platinum
No Banner Ads and Unlimited Access
Sign Up Today - Only $9.95 per month!
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVanLaak(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Every man a tiger |
Listers:
I have read this book and as a former AF fighter pilot can vouch for the
accuracy and utility of its contents. Clearly the author is/was a fighter
jock with a keen understanding of the trade.
I also love to fly formation and dogfight, and have a very successful record
in the RV-3, RV-4, and now RV-6.
But I feel compelled to remind folks that this is very dangerous business for
those who are agressive, and it is very easy to lose sight of the other
aircraft and end up a tangled mass of aluminum. I have had a number of close
calls (close enough to scare me) and have a number of friends who have had
midairs in military jets and survived. I have also lost a friend despite his
being in an ejection seat.
Somewhere between my advanced age (47), normally no chute, and the fact that
I do not do this for a living anymore, I find I am reluctant to dogfight with
anyone other than an expert whom I can trust to stay out of my way and to not
stall/spin inadvertently. In the past I have had people suddenly tailslide
into me (chopping the throttle going uphill), split ess very close to the
ground (no hazzard to me but almost a bad day none the less) and otherwise
almost kill one or both of us.
So enjoy, but never forget this is not a game. It can be for keeps.
Jim Van Laak
N1KJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AV8TURDON(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Every man a tiger |
Well said and good advice. I too had a lot of your kind of experiences in my
career as a fighter jock. I go back to the 50's
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Every Man A Tiger |
>
>
> How about paintball cannons in the wings?
>
I know some people who have tried that with ultralights. Even at low ultralight
speeds, range and accuracy are completely inadequate. I think at RV speeds you'd
probably overtake and run right into your own shots.
It does sound like fun though.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Every Man A Tiger |
Thanks for sending the replacement tape. Could you please send me the tracking
number for ups so I can check on delivery date?
Thanks again,
Art Glaser
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Every Man A Tiger |
Hey Andy, are you going to make this book available through the Builders
Bookstore? I'd like to buy a copy.
Cash Copeland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Whelen Strobe Wiring |
In a message dated 7/12/01 3:15:09 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com writes:
<< I am installing the terminals for my Whelen Strobes and need to know the
wiring order for the color wires which plug into the central power supply.
The drawing on top states Pin #1 is Anode and Pin #2 is Cathode and Pin #3
is Trigger. The Power supply is the A413AHDA-CF-14/28 The wire cable I
purchased with power supply is Red, Black, Clear and an unshielded Ground
wire. The strobes have corresponding color wires attached to them. I just
can't figure out which color I should plug into which hole on the three pin
plastic connector they furnished. >>
The following data is from the Systems and Installation Manual, available
free from Whelen, and of course only applies to their systems:
The keyway on the AMP (contrary to Van's, they are not Molex) three pin
connector is between the Pin 1 and Pin 2 positions (but closer to Pin 1).
The strobe output and power input connectors are the same type of connector
but opposite gender. Observe that power always comes from female contacts to
avoid exposed pins that could short out.
OUTPUT to Strobe head
Pin 1 is RED (Anode + 425V)
Pin 2 is BLACK (Flash Tube - Ground)
Pin 3 is WHITE (Trigger)
The shield drain wire connects to GROUND at the power supply end only.
INPUT power
Pin 1 is +12V
Pin 2 is Airframe Ground
Pin 3 is Sync (option for connecting multiple supplies)
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Every Man A Tiger |
The book is no longer in print. I found a used copy through B&N for $28.
Bruce
Glasair III
JusCash(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hey Andy, are you going to make this book available through the Builders
> Bookstore? I'd like to buy a copy.
>
> Cash Copeland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Real Performance Figures |
I finally got around to collecting meaningful performance numbers. Comments
are appreciated, speed improvement modification suggestions are appreciated.
The test conditions were:
Pressure Altitude: 7000', OAT 61F
The aircraft was at 1325 lb, and is a clean RV-6 airframe with pressure
recovery wheelpants and composite gear leg fairings. I have not washed the
plane in a few weeks, so there were quite a few bugs splattered on it. I'm
sure I'd have picked up 10 knots or so without the bugs (wink, wink, nudge).
The altitude was selected because it put me above the nasty haze layer that
covers the South East for most of the summer, and because I could easily
determine wind direction at that altitude. (My home field is adjacent to a
very large power plant, and 7000' was where the steam plume topped out today.
The steam plume makes a very good indicator of wind direction).
On my first run, full throttle, I saw a two way average groundspeed of 165
knots, or 190 MPH at 2650 rpm and 23.25" MP. According to my interpretation
of the (awful) power charts in my manual, this equated to 78% of the rated
160 hp. FYI, the two way average is a good number, if you fly upwind and
downwind on the legs.
On my second run, I selected 2400 RPM, and saw 21" of MP. The two way speed
average was 148 knots or 170 MPH. The power charts say this power setting is
66%. This is my typical cruise setting, and calibrates well with my fuel
burn, which is 8 GPH in cruise. If I project a fuel burn at 66% power and
.45 lb/hp/hr, I get 7.92 GPH.
The 77% power run at 190 mph is almost exactly what Van's lists as the
performance for a stock RV-6. Of course, a stock RV-6 didn't have pressure
recovery wheel pants or gear leg fairings when the performance data was first
published. When I was building my airplane, I added the speed gains
"promised" by the gear leg fairings and wheel pants, and figured that I'd see
200+ mph in cruise.
Is anyone out there getting better performance figures on a 160 HP, fixed
pitch RV-6?
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net> |
| Subject: | Countersinking Fiberglass |
Hi All,
Dumb question #3 I guess.
The wheel fairings are using recessed Tinnerman washers for the screws to
hold the fairings together.
What is the method of choice to countersink for the #6 and #8 ?
A hand held 1/2" drill bit or something like that ?
I haven't got a clue what would do the job without hogging out a lot of
material, 'cause if we don't hog it out, the washer will stand proud..won't
it ?
Same with the spinner, but worse consequences....
Any opinions ?
Thanks for your help,
Austin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Every Man A Tiger |
Thanks
Cash
>
>
> The book is no longer in print. I found a used copy through B&N for $28.
>
> Bruce
> Glasair III
>
> JusCash(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> > Hey Andy, are you going to make this book available through the Builders
> > Bookstore? I'd like to buy a copy.
> >
> > Cash Copeland
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Countersinking Fiberglass |
In a message dated 7/12/01 10:38:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 6430(at)axion.net
writes:
> Hi All,
> Dumb question #3 I guess.
> The wheel fairings are using recessed Tinnerman washers for the screws to
> hold the fairings together.
> What is the method of choice to countersink for the #6 and #8 ?
> A hand held 1/2" drill bit or something like that ?
> I haven't got a clue what would do the job without hogging out a lot of
> material, 'cause if we don't hog it out, the washer will stand proud..won't
> it ?
> Same with the spinner, but worse consequences....
> Any opinions ?
> Thanks for your help,
> Austin.
Austin,
Use a #6 or #8 countersink and go for it. Using these bits on fiberglass
really dulls them, but I'm not aware of a better method. If you don't
already have #6 and 8 countersinks, Avery, Cleveland, ACS, and others carry
them.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Countersinking Fiberglass |
I guess this would be stupid answer #3 Austin... :) Have you tried with
regular #6 and #8 countersinks? Or... does these washers require less of an
angle on the countersink? In that case, I think you can buy countersinks
with a shallower angle - in a 1/2" format I think.
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Austin
Sent: January 4, 1980 10:56 AM
Subject: RV-List: Countersinking Fiberglass
Hi All,
Dumb question #3 I guess.
The wheel fairings are using recessed Tinnerman washers for the screws to
hold the fairings together.
What is the method of choice to countersink for the #6 and #8 ?
A hand held 1/2" drill bit or something like that ?
I haven't got a clue what would do the job without hogging out a lot of
material, 'cause if we don't hog it out, the washer will stand proud..won't
it ?
Same with the spinner, but worse consequences....
Any opinions ?
Thanks for your help,
Austin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 7/12/01 8:51:28 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
RVPilot4(at)webtv.net writes:
> Rough the area lightly with sandpaper, clean with thinner,fill with JB
> Weld,smooth and sand the next day.Worked for me.Still good a lot of
> hours and 2 years later.Hope this helps.
>
> Bob Murphy Poplar Grove ILL. (C77)
Most folks know this but..........when super glue and baking soda are
combined they chemically react to form a repair that will outlast any wood
prop. Put a few drops of super glue into the ding and then sprinkle on a
little baking soda and then another drop or two of super glue.........you'll
see a little smoke then repeat the process till you are satisfied with the
build up. Then break out a piece of emery paper and work the area back into
shape. You can sand it down immediately and then go flying and touch up with
some paint or poly later. If you fly a wood prop..........don't leave home
without your super glue/baking soda repair kit. I've seen some really big
gouges repaired this way but, as with any repair, (small or large) you may
want to check for balance.
As they say.........this is worth what you paid for it.
Please archive
Rick Gray RV6QB (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Alignment of trailing edge of aileron with wingtip |
Thanks everyone for helping. I also searched the archives but didn't find an
answer I liked. I am planning on buying the new tips that Van's use for the
7's. I understand these should fit fine on the -8 wing. Maybe the fit will
be somewhat better there plus I can get them pre-cut for a tip light.
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Boyd C. Braem
Sent: July 12, 2001 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alignment of trailing edge of aileron with wingtip
Are--
There should be a note in the archives about this and the corrective
action taken, but I guess I didn't use the right combo of search words.
If I remember correctly, the ailerons lined up vertically with the flaps
but not one wingtip. The fellow measured the degree of error. Then he
cut (split horizontally) the back-side and trailing edges with a Dremel.
Filled the cut areas with epoxy and clamped the wingtip in a jig he
made up to correct the offset (so many degrees opposite the original
offset error). When the epoxy was cure he filled the cut line with
filler, sanded, repainted and put the wingtip back on.
Boyd Braem
Are Barstad wrote:
>
>
> After seeing 100'eds of RV's I have noticed that many of them have the
aileron trailing edge lined up with the flap trailing edge. What is more
rare to see is an aileron aligned with the wing tip. From looking at the
construction, there is not really a lot we can do as opposed to the
elevators and rudder where we have good control by adjusting rod-end's.
>
> Is there something I can do to be proactive in getting this lined up? I
hate to find out first when installing the tip that I could have done
something simple that now is too late.
>
> For the few of you who does have a close-to-perfect line, did you modify
the tip? (most I see seem to have a tip that sticks out further aft than the
control surfaces). Or is there something else we can do?
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Hughes" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Every man a tiger |
Jim,
Very well said. Thanks.
Keith
RV-6 canopy
>
> Listers:
>
> But I feel compelled to remind folks that this is very dangerous business
for
> those who are agressive, and it is very easy to lose sight of the other
> aircraft and end up a tangled mass of aluminum.
>
> So enjoy, but never forget this is not a game. It can be for keeps.
>
> Jim Van Laak
> N1KJ
July 05, 2001 - July 12, 2001
RV-Archive.digest.vol-lc