RV-Archive.digest.vol-lf
July 22, 2001 - July 28, 2001
We were in a long line for the lunch when it came in . The line cleared
and we were then in a short line for lunch.
Wednesday I'm off to Osh to see it a third time. HA.
Cecil
writes:
>
> Listers:
>
> Well I was flying my RV at least. I was coming in from watching a
> little of
> the Region 10 glider championships practice at the old Reese AFB at
> Lubbock,
> Texas. It was about 3PM as I landed at Carlsbad. I think it was
> Judy
> Stocks that said "there's not much going on there," in reference to
> Carlsbad. The temperature was over 100 when I landed, and I would
> normally
> expect a few weeds to be blowing across the ramp, and maybe a 172
> and a 310
> tied down on the ramp.
>
> Today as I turned off the runway there was an unbelievable
> apparition off to
> my left. It was tied down, but it covered two complete tiedown
> spots. It
> was a massive box kite, no it was the VICKERS VIMY! Last I heard,
> this one
> of a kind airplane was stranded in Arizona with legal problems with
> BMW, but
> it turns out a recent legal decision allowed the intrepid aviators
> to
> continue (two days late) on the their trek to Oshkosh.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Mark your calendar |
Greetings;
Mark your calendars now for Saturday Sept. 15. for the Coastal Georgia Fall
Fly In.
The fly in will be held at Eagle Neck Airpark, a pristine community located
on the coast of Georgia half way between Savannah and St. Simmons Island.
There are 2 RV8's, 1 RV 6, and 1 RV 4 nearing completion, as well as a
completed RV4 all based on the airport.
Savannah or St. Simons would make great get-a-ways for an extended weekend
mini vacation.
Email or call for our informational flyer and airport information.
Dick & Vicki Sipp
912 756-5588
rsipp(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: here we go again |
The easiest thing to do is mark the locations on the axle though the holes
in the nut, then take the wheel off and drill the axle.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> upon lubeing thewheelbearings on he RV8A, I noticed that the cotter pin
> holes were drilled in the nut holding the wheel on, but not the
> axcle....looking at the location of the holes when tightened to proper
> specks, I find I cannot get a drill motor..or a drill bit close enough
> to the wheel to drill out the existing holes...has anyone any ideas on
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon Robertson <gordon(at)safemail.com> |
| Subject: | Infinity grips with many switches |
Hi list members,
Question to those flying with multiple switches on the stick: How many
is too many? When do you get confused and start pushing the wrong
buttons on the stick? Embarassing to be cursing the flaps not going
down when in fact you are transmitting .......
Gordon Robertson
RV8 fuse
Agreed. One of the most comfortable and useful grips in the business,
left
or right hand. Change radio frequency, flip-flop channels, push to
ident,
landing lights, taxi lights, 50 caliber machine gu.........I mean
push-to-talk. Without taking your hand off the stick. And they look
really
cool..........not that that would influence anybody..........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | ***First Flight!!!!*** |
Well, after 3 years, 4 months, two moves, active duty
in the Army, N197AB finally took to the skies. After
the nervousness subsided, I climbed in and made it
happen. The tower folks at Deer Valley (DVT) were
extremely helpful. I was cleared to circle the
airport at 1000 feet above pattern altitude. Fellow
RV Listers Larry Olson and Tom Velvick were present to
help with the preflight, and help with the champagne
consumption.
Left wing is a little heavy. I suspect the flaps are
not in trail. It was still controllable with a little
opposite stick.
Temps were running a little hot after 20 minutes. #3
was hottest at about 235 C. Maybe cause it was a new
engine, and 85 degrees outside.
My RPM maxed out at 2250 with indicated airpspeed at
155 MPH in level flight. Maybe need a re-pitch, but
I'm gonna wait until I have the engine broken in
before I think about a re-pitch. No gear leg fairings
or wheel pants installed, which are contributing to
the whole numbers game. I do suspect my prop is a
little overpitched, however.
The encoding fuction of the uEncoder doesn't seem to
be reporting altitude...time for some more wire
chasing.
Other than that, a pretty uneventful, and joyous
flight. I know it's been said before, but I can't
describe the feeling of flying an airplane that you
built. Every rivet, every busted knuckle, every late
night, every early morning, and any other hardship you
can think of is worth it. You WILL forget about how
much work it was, trust me!!!
Thanks to Matt and everyone on the RV-List and RV
community who have all lended hands (or words) to
assist in making my dream come true!
Keep poundin' the rivets....the grin will come!
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
FLYING!!!!
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | here we go again |
Another easy way to do it (and the way I did it) is to get your 12" #40
drill out and drill the initial hole with this drill bit... with the wheel
and nut in place. The drill bit will bend allowing you to do it. Then, take
the wheel off and drill the hole a bigger size.
jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Bundy
Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2001 12:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: here we go again
The easiest thing to do is mark the locations on the axle though the holes
in the nut, then take the wheel off and drill the axle.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> upon lubeing thewheelbearings on he RV8A, I noticed that the cotter pin
> holes were drilled in the nut holding the wheel on, but not the
> axcle....looking at the location of the holes when tightened to proper
> specks, I find I cannot get a drill motor..or a drill bit close enough
> to the wheel to drill out the existing holes...has anyone any ideas on
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity grips with many switches |
I have Infinity grips on both sticks in my -6A. The pilot's stick grip
houses: (1) a coolie hat switch for electric pitch and roll trim (black and
top center), (2) flaps (three-position on (flaps up)- off - momentary on
(flaps down), top left), (3) landing lights (a white push button, top
right), (4) PTT (red trigger), (5) autopilot disconnect (blue push button,
left side, facing upward), and (6) TV camera on/off switch (green push
button, low, facing forward). Switches 5 and 6 are not active on the
passenger's stick grip. For me, this is not too many, and I cannot recall
having made errors in their use. I'm 69 years old, so if I can manage this
number of switches, so can you, unless you're 90, maybe, in which case
you'll probably forget your clearance anyway.
It may be useful to reflect on the fact that every switch you put on the
stick grip isn't a switch you have to feel around for on the panel or
subpanel somewhere. My fuel boost pump is operated by a three-position (off
- on - momentary on) switch just beneath my prop control; I can operate it
without removing my left hand from the throttle. The on position operates
my boost pump and the momentary on position operates my primer solenoid.
Try it; you'll like it.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Gordon Robertson wrote:
> Question to those flying with multiple switches on the stick: How many
> is too many? When do you get confused and start pushing the wrong
> buttons on the stick?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mel Jordan" <n6jx(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re:ELT panel controls |
Can anyone point me to the regulations that govern where the ELT remote
indicator/control panel needs to be mounted? I was looking at a location
that is not on the instrument panel and wondering if the regs would permit
this.
Thanks,
Mel Jordan
Tucson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | RV9a rear fuselage |
Has anyone 'advanced of us' come up with a good way to back rivet all or
most of the rear fuselage?
It's pretty hard to reach over the side skins to get the rivets on the
other side. and the very tail is pretty tight.
Anyone back rivet the whole thing?
Did anyone climb inside? If so how did you protect the bottom skin?
I am thinking of clecoing on some boards to the side and using them to
support the 'little canoe' upside down and then just stand up inside to
work on it.
It appears that a tiny person might lay inside to do the top skins, but
I don't know.
Any ideas.
Barry Pote RV9a fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ***First Flight!!!!*** |
In a message dated 7/22/01 9:54:28 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
pbesing(at)yahoo.com writes:
>
> Well, after 3 years, 4 months, two moves, active duty
>
Congads, it is an awsome neet feeling and it even gets better.
Tim Barnes
N39TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV9a rear fuselage |
Barry, are you talking about riveting the side and bottom skins together in
the tail cone? I slid mine along the back riveting table (steel plate
recessed in the table)for this area. Also there were times I used a nice new
(smooth) sledge hammer for a back rivet bucking bar. You shouldn't need to
crawl inside the tail cone unless you forget to install the static tubes
before you rivet on the rear turtle deck skins. Ask me how I know!
Kevin 9A
47 hours
>
>Has anyone 'advanced of us' come up with a good way to back rivet all or
>most of the rear fuselage?
>
>It's pretty hard to reach over the side skins to get the rivets on the
>other side. and the very tail is pretty tight.
>
>Anyone back rivet the whole thing?
>
>Did anyone climb inside? If so how did you protect the bottom skin?
>
>I am thinking of clecoing on some boards to the side and using them to
>support the 'little canoe' upside down and then just stand up inside to
>work on it.
>
>It appears that a tiny person might lay inside to do the top skins, but
>I don't know.
>
>Any ideas.
>
>Barry Pote RV9a fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re:ELT panel controls |
Mel,
I don't know if the regs state where it must be placed but a friend of mine
has his on the top rear of the baggage compartment. The rear baggage
compartment has the large lower panel and the smaller curved panel on top.
His is in the top curved piece. I like it so well, I am doing the same.
His plane has been flying for a year, so it must be ok.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
RV6 finish
----- Original Message -----
From: Mel Jordan <n6jx(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2001 7:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re:ELT panel controls
>
> Can anyone point me to the regulations that govern where the ELT remote
> indicator/control panel needs to be mounted? I was looking at a location
> that is not on the instrument panel and wondering if the regs would permit
> this.
>
> Thanks,
> Mel Jordan
> Tucson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | RV9a rear fuselage |
I bought a special back rivet set that is 12" long. It is excellent for back
riveting wing and fuselage skins. I haven't been using it though since I
can't see any advantage to it from riveting from the outside. It might look
prettier before paintjob, but otherwise not (unless you plan on a aluminum
finish).
Are
RV-8 Wings (Oshkosh bound on Tuesday)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of barry pote
Sent: July 22, 2001 8:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV9a rear fuselage
Has anyone 'advanced of us' come up with a good way to back rivet all or
most of the rear fuselage?
It's pretty hard to reach over the side skins to get the rivets on the
other side. and the very tail is pretty tight.
Anyone back rivet the whole thing?
Did anyone climb inside? If so how did you protect the bottom skin?
I am thinking of clecoing on some boards to the side and using them to
support the 'little canoe' upside down and then just stand up inside to
work on it.
It appears that a tiny person might lay inside to do the top skins, but
I don't know.
Any ideas.
Barry Pote RV9a fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re:ELT panel controls |
no regs that I know of that says it needs to be on the panel. My Stinson
has the elt in the back seat with no access to any panel stuff.
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM (res) Building Flaps
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mel Jordan" <n6jx(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2001 7:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re:ELT panel controls
>
> Can anyone point me to the regulations that govern where the ELT remote
> indicator/control panel needs to be mounted? I was looking at a location
> that is not on the instrument panel and wondering if the regs would permit
> this.
>
> Thanks,
> Mel Jordan
> Tucson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re:ELT panel controls |
According to the newer TSO C-91a regs and RTCA/DO-183, the switch must be
installed in the cockpit and be visible from your seating position so you
will be alerted if the ELT accidently gets activated.
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mel Jordan
Sent: July 22, 2001 8:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re:ELT panel controls
Can anyone point me to the regulations that govern where the ELT remote
indicator/control panel needs to be mounted? I was looking at a location
that is not on the instrument panel and wondering if the regs would permit
this.
Thanks,
Mel Jordan
Tucson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | First Flight Pics/Website Update |
I have posted some pics from this morning. I will
have more as they come in from my friends..hopefully
some take off and landing pics.
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing/flight.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Louisville Kentucky Builders |
Hello,
This is my first post so I hope I did it rite...
I was just woundering if anyone is building in the
Louisville Kentucky area? my neighbor and I are
getting ready to order and build a 7a and a 9a in
my garage and was wanting to get a support group
together close to home.
Thanks
Jeff Garrett
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Mosher" <tmosher(at)gbronline.com> |
| Subject: | Re:ELT panel controls |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mel Jordan" <n6jx(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2001 7:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re:ELT panel controls
>
> Can anyone point me to the regulations that govern where the ELT remote
> indicator/control panel needs to be mounted? I was looking at a location
> that is not on the instrument panel and wondering if the regs would permit
> this.
>
> Thanks,
> Mel Jordan
> Tucson
>
>
Dug through the regs and couldn't find anything about location, however ACK
refers to advisory circular 43-13.2A about ELT installations. I haven't
looked at the AC yet as it takes forever to download at 56k - I'll see what
it says tomorrow (nothing like a free T-1 connection at work).
Tom Mosher
RV-7A N787RV (in about five or six years).
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ***First Flight!!!!*** |
Congratulations Paul, I'm really happy for you.
Garry, Casper is scheduled for next weekend.
Paul Besing wrote:
>
> Well, after 3 years, 4 months, two moves, active duty
> in the Army, N197AB finally took to the skies. After
> the nervousness subsided, I climbed in and made it
> happen. The tower folks at Deer Valley (DVT) were
> extremely helpful. I was cleared to circle the
> airport at 1000 feet above pattern altitude. Fellow
> RV Listers Larry Olson and Tom Velvick were present to
> help with the preflight, and help with the champagne
> consumption.
>
> Left wing is a little heavy. I suspect the flaps are
> not in trail. It was still controllable with a little
> opposite stick.
>
> Temps were running a little hot after 20 minutes. #3
> was hottest at about 235 C. Maybe cause it was a new
> engine, and 85 degrees outside.
>
> My RPM maxed out at 2250 with indicated airpspeed at
> 155 MPH in level flight. Maybe need a re-pitch, but
> I'm gonna wait until I have the engine broken in
> before I think about a re-pitch. No gear leg fairings
> or wheel pants installed, which are contributing to
> the whole numbers game. I do suspect my prop is a
> little overpitched, however.
>
> The encoding fuction of the uEncoder doesn't seem to
> be reporting altitude...time for some more wire
> chasing.
>
> Other than that, a pretty uneventful, and joyous
> flight. I know it's been said before, but I can't
> describe the feeling of flying an airplane that you
> built. Every rivet, every busted knuckle, every late
> night, every early morning, and any other hardship you
> can think of is worth it. You WILL forget about how
> much work it was, trust me!!!
>
> Thanks to Matt and everyone on the RV-List and RV
> community who have all lended hands (or words) to
> assist in making my dream come true!
>
> Keep poundin' the rivets....the grin will come!
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A 197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> FLYING!!!!
>
> http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Louisville Ky, Builders |
Hello,
This is my first post so I hope I did it rite...
I was just woundering if anyone is building in the
Louisville Kentucky area? my neighbor and I are
getting ready to order and build a 7a and a 9a in
my garage and was wanting to get a support group
together close to home.
Thanks
Jeff Garrett
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Louisville Kentucky Builders |
Welcome to the list Jeff. This is one of the best support groups that you will
find. I have several hundred pictures that I have downloaded from the various
sites and they are all RV-8 photos showing something of interest.
It has been very helpful. Don't forget the electrical listing when you get there.
You can get a lot of help there too.
Howard
1/2 of RV-8 80188 Sloooow build
Working on wiring
Mooresville, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Flight reports - electrical bugs |
N154PK is running better and better with each flight, the engine seems to be
breaking in and developing much more power. The legs and pants helped get
things working better too. My climb is 1500fpm @ 90mph and 100% cruise has
increased to 190mph @2700RPM.
I am having one problem with the electrical system, the fuse feeding the
alternator field blows as soon as the engine is started. I noticed the volt
meter never went oveer 12.5 even after the engine was running, I suspected
the alternator was not charging the battery so I checked things out and
found the fuse blown.
My electrical system is a very basic Aeroelectric style system with the Ford
regulator and a Vans alternator. I used two fuses in the field circuit
instead of one fuse and one circuit breaker. I will be putting in the
breaker! The wiring is pretty basic and I've double checked all the
connections. With the engine off, master on, and a new fuse in the field
circuit everything is OK, I used a battery charger to raise the voltage on
the circuit up to 14V to check the OV protector wasn't tripping early, it
wasn't. Fuse is still OK. As soon as the engine is cranked over the fuse
blows.
My next step is to get a new regulator and plug it into the harness, that is
the only thing that I suspect could cause this type of failure. If anyone
else has a good idea let me know!
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ***First Flight!!!!*** |
Paul,
CONGRATULATIONS WELL DONE !!!!
Chuck Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (working out electrical bugs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
07/23/2001 09:37:48 AM
I have a Sensenich fixed pitch metal prop and I'm looking for a good source
of prop tape that will project the leading edge.
My hanger mate swears by the stuff but it was already on the prop when he
bought his plane.
Anyone have a good source for this stuff.
Thanks,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( at the airport doing final assembly )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Wing tip strobe power and Navaid |
07/23/2001 09:46:13 AM
You might want to file this in your wing wiring folder for future use...
I was wiring up my Whelen remote power supplies in the wing tips yesterday
and noticed that every time my strobes would fire my Navaid would twitch.
I was fortunate that I had used shielded wire to provide the power to the
strobes. I just hooked up the shield to a point at the end of the wing tip
and bingo. No more Navaid interference.
Use shielded wire even when the strobe power supplies are in the wing tips.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( at the airport doing final assembly )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
While we're on the topic of prop tape, can anybody direct me to some of the
thin, clear gap seal? Like what the Lancairs and others use?
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 10:38 AM
Subject: RV-List: Prop tape
I have a Sensenich fixed pitch metal prop and I'm looking for a good source
of prop tape that will project the leading edge.
My hanger mate swears by the stuff but it was already on the prop when he
bought his plane.
Anyone have a good source for this stuff.
Thanks,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( at the airport doing final assembly )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
Any sailplane distributor/dealer should have the stuff on hand or be
able to get it. Or maybe the mighty Lancair folk would deem it proper
to send some to a lowly RV driver.
Boyd.
"Jim Norman, MD" wrote:
>
>
> While we're on the topic of prop tape, can anybody direct me to some of the
> thin, clear gap seal? Like what the Lancairs and others use?
>
> jim
> Tampa
>snip<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Jim,
Try:
http://www.planes-wings-things.com/products/gap.htm
This is my buddies model sailplane site and this tape should work well. Sometimes
his service is a little slow, but it's a source.
Laird
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Mon, Jul 23, 2001 10:42 AM
Subject: RV-List: Gap Seal
While we're on the topic of prop tape, can anybody direct me to some of the
thin, clear gap seal? Like what the Lancairs and others use?
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 10:38 AM
Subject: RV-List: Prop tape
I have a Sensenich fixed pitch metal prop and I'm looking for a good source
of prop tape that will project the leading edge.
My hanger mate swears by the stuff but it was already on the prop when he
bought his plane.
Anyone have a good source for this stuff.
Thanks,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( at the airport doing final assembly )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight reports - electrical bugs |
Pat Perry wrote:
>
> I am having one problem with the electrical system, the fuse feeding the
> alternator field blows as soon as the engine is started. I noticed the volt
> meter never went oveer 12.5 even after the engine was running, I suspected
> the alternator was not charging the battery so I checked things out and
> found the fuse blown.
>
> My electrical system is a very basic Aeroelectric style system with the Ford
> regulator and a Vans alternator. I used two fuses in the field circuit
> instead of one fuse and one circuit breaker I will be putting in thebreaker!
Two fuses in the field circuit.? might I ask what the second fuse is doing?
Basically there are two fuses or CB 's for the alternator circut. One a big
honker at 35-55 amp is used in the ouput lead of the alternator and the second
a small 5-10 amp job for the field circuit. If your blowing a 10 amp fuse then
I would really check the wiring again and then the voltage regulator.
> The wiring is pretty basic and I've double checked all the
> connections. With the engine off, master on, and a new fuse in the field
> circuit everything is OK, I used a battery charger to raise the voltage on
> the circuit up to 14V to check the OV protector wasn't tripping early, it
> wasn't. Fuse is still OK. As soon as the engine is cranked over the fuse
> blows.
>
> My next step is to get a new regulator and plug it into the harness, that is
> the only thing that I suspect could cause this type of failure. If anyone
> else has a good idea let me know!
>
> Pat Perry
> Dallas, PA
> RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
"'rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com'"
Dave,
Just throwing in another perspective on your question.
Contrary to popular belief, any engine's primary purpose (turbine or
reciprocating) is to pump air using heat energy created by combustion. We
then extract a little of that pumping action for the purpose of propulsion
(roughly 25%). There are two simple rules for all engines.
1. The less air you have to pump, the less you will pump air. (seems a
little redundant, but its fundamental to the power equation)
2. The more air you pump, the more power, or thrust you will produce. (until
something breaks, burns, frys, leaves formation, or transzeniates into an
alternate reality)
Neither of these rules care about RPM; but, most engines are optomized for
some RPM that allows for maximum conversion of pumped air into power or
thrust.(allowing for a multitude of factors)
The CS just allows the engine to stayed "geared" for that optimum RPM, much
like a bicycle gear train does for your leg bones. Your leg bones can only
push so hard regardless of the slope you're on. If the slope increases you
increase the gear ratio, and trade speed for climbability, or VaV if the
slope decreases.
In the case of increasing altitude with a fairly constant slope the leg
bones are just pushing less, due to less air (rule 1 & 2), but the rate at
which they turn the pedals stays the same, because the CS prop reduces blade
pitch, or Load. (Interestingly, although the engine is producing less power,
the aircraft may not be traveling slower due to the increase in TAS at
altitude)
The way to maintain the same amount of air being pumped is to install an
additional air pump on the engine's inlet, then keep the inlet at Sea level
pressure regardless of altitude. This is called a turbocharged "normalized
engine",,, think $$$$$$$$$$$$$$
WN
APIA AP Instructor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: No Engine Logs? |
Sam,
Yes, you can do it. The engine would have to be completely overhauled and
all ADs checked for compliance.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Sam Cherroff" <sam(at)videoassist.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: No Engine Logs?
>Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 08:39:35 -0700
>
>
>Hi,
>If you purchase an aircraft engine without logs, is there a procedure
>that can get everything above-board and certified again? What would
>be involved in doing that?
>
>Thanks,
>--Sam
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> Cinelogic inc.
> (818)772-4777
> fax 772-4733
> sam(at)videoassist.com
> http://www.videoassist.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Are's IMC ordeal |
Just to add a little emphasis to this point, I had to investigate and
accident this weekend of a once-beautiful Cessna 120. The pilot went into
the clouds and found the cumulo granite part of the cloud. Luckliy the
pilot survived with miracuously minor injuries with the most serious being a
hole in his are needing stitches and a severely strained set of glutoious
maximus muscles. He didn't have an instrument even though the aircraft had
what I could call a limited IFR setup. He didn't know how to use what he
had and no training to tell him what to do.
Get that instrument rating, guys, and even if you don't keep it current the
training may someday save ytour life. If also makes flying VFR a piece of
cake.
Go out and fly safe.
Mike Robertson
PS. He was headed for Oshkosh. Maybe next year as I hear he is already
looking at Trade-a-Plane in his hospital bed.
>From: Gordon Robertson <gordon(at)safemail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Are's IMC ordeal
>Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 09:09:56 -0700
>
>
>Are,
>
>I was riveted by your account. What a story! And how lucky you were a
>flight sim freak. This is absolutely how accidents happen.
>
>We all have our "never again" stories. In my case, before I learned to
>manage fuel by switching tank to tank, I landed at Trenton NJ in a 172
>after flying from Boston. It normally took about 2 1/2 hours, and fuel
>was no problem. This time the winds aloft were so strong that I was
>flying at 2000 ft into a headwind. (Stupid, fuel consumption was very
>high) I thought about landing at Morristown to refuel, but the gauges
>seemed ok, so I pushed on. When I fuelled in Trenton, it took 36
>gallons! The plane only holds 38 gallons total! I nearly died, both
>figuratively and literally.
>
>So thanks for sharing your story with us, even though you were entirely
>blameless and undoubtedly saved both lives.
>
>I took my IFR rating about 20 years ago, and like many people have not
>kept it current. But that is ok, because in an emergency, the training
>is there. It is like riding a bicycle, you never forget, only get
>rusty. So I absolutely agree. Fly VFR by all means, but earn that
>instrument training and equip your plane with the basics necessary.
>
>Gordon Robertson
>RV8 fuse
>DNA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
Any guidlines out there on what the min/max oil temps
should be for an O-360? I am running about 195
currently.
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Starter on Stick |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
03:42:22 PM
Heres something I heard at SNF that I thought was so slick that I had to
share with the rest of the class. I grabbed this idea from the guy with the
drop dead georgeous -8 "Big Beautifull Doll". I told him I was putting in a
FI engine and he told me to be sure and hold that stick full aft when
starting because you don't know what that engine is going to do, especially
when hot. It could quickly spool up and strike the prop. I remembered from
my Citabria days needing a third hand, one to hold the stick fully back,
one to engage the starter, one to torment the thing into life with the
mixture/throttle. More times than I want to admit, the stick got away and
slammed against the elevator stop. Here's a beautifull cure.
His stick had a button on it for just the starter. The button was attached
to a relay. On the panel he had one of those cool master arm switches with
a flip down red cover like you open just before you destroy an enemy
bridge. This connected the relay to the starter contactor. To start, he
opened the master arm cover and enabled the starter. While holding the
stick back, hits the button on the stick, when the engine starts, secures
the starter/switch. This was really a great idea.
Eric Henson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter on Stick |
--- Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
>
> Heres something I heard at SNF that I thought was so slick that I had
> to share with the rest of the class.
This _is_ a good idea - especially for tail-draggers...
My -6 uses an Infinity grip on the left and I have a start switch which
is parallel to the left mag/start switch on the panel.
I don't know if I will wind up using it as primary start, or just as an
emergency in-flight restart option...
The Infinity web site recommends such a set up - also a fuel pump
switch on the grip. All (well, most) emergency functions with the hand
on the grip. Fly the plane first!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
I was just looking those up last night. Max for my O-320 is 245 F. Max cyl
head temp is 500, max oil pressure startup is 115 psi and should drop to 85
or 90 hot. Max cruise RPM is 2700, max oil consumption is .67 quarts an hour.
I think the O-360 should be same or close but 195 is a good temp
Kevin -9A
Apex, WA
> Any guidlines out there on what the min/max oil temps
> should be for an O-360? I am running about 195
> currently.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A 197AB Arizona
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | deltaB(at)erols.com |
| Subject: | Re:ELT panel controls |
In the newer 172 I am getting acclimated to, their ELT control
is in the farthest right hand upper corner of the panel. As I
was exiting from my second flight, I was wondering "what the
hell did they put WAY over there", took a look and found out.
In a perfect position to give a bored passenger something to
play with.
Bernie C.
Thomas Mosher wrote:
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mel Jordan" <n6jx(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2001 7:48 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Re:ELT panel controls
>
> >
> > Can anyone point me to the regulations that govern where the ELT remote
> > indicator/control panel needs to be mounted? I was looking at a location
> > that is not on the instrument panel and wondering if the regs would permit
> > this.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Mel Jordan
> > Tucson
> >
> >
> Dug through the regs and couldn't find anything about location, however ACK
> refers to advisory circular 43-13.2A about ELT installations. I haven't
> looked at the AC yet as it takes forever to download at 56k - I'll see what
> it says tomorrow (nothing like a free T-1 connection at work).
>
> Tom Mosher
> RV-7A N787RV (in about five or six years).
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jayeandscott" <jayeandscott(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight reports - electrical bugs |
Just wondering if there is a problem with the return current flow from the
starter back to the battery(I know the actual flow is the other way but this
is the logic we wire on). If there's a poor connection between the engine
and the battery ground terminal the return current will take whatever path
is available, including the carb heat control cable and the throttle
cable.Quickest,simplest way I can think to check this out is to put a
booster cable( from your car trunk) from one of the starter mounting bolt
heads directly to the battery negative and see if it still happens.
----- Original Message -----
From: Pat Perry <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 6:03 AM
Subject: RV-List: Flight reports - electrical bugs
>
> N154PK is running better and better with each flight, the engine seems to
be
> breaking in and developing much more power. The legs and pants helped get
> things working better too. My climb is 1500fpm @ 90mph and 100% cruise
has
> increased to 190mph @2700RPM.
>
> I am having one problem with the electrical system, the fuse feeding the
> alternator field blows as soon as the engine is started. I noticed the
volt
> meter never went oveer 12.5 even after the engine was running, I suspected
> the alternator was not charging the battery so I checked things out and
> found the fuse blown.
>
> My electrical system is a very basic Aeroelectric style system with the
Ford
> regulator and a Vans alternator. I used two fuses in the field circuit
> instead of one fuse and one circuit breaker. I will be putting in the
> breaker! The wiring is pretty basic and I've double checked all the
> connections. With the engine off, master on, and a new fuse in the field
> circuit everything is OK, I used a battery charger to raise the voltage on
> the circuit up to 14V to check the OV protector wasn't tripping early, it
> wasn't. Fuse is still OK. As soon as the engine is cranked over the fuse
> blows.
>
> My next step is to get a new regulator and plug it into the harness, that
is
> the only thing that I suspect could cause this type of failure. If anyone
> else has a good idea let me know!
>
> Pat Perry
> Dallas, PA
> RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Answer from Lycoming regarding AEIO-360 vs. IO-360 |
Hi all,
A few days ago, there was a thread regarding the Lycoming aerobatic engines.
There was some confusion as to whether there was any difference between the
AEIO-360-A1B6 and the IO-360-A1B6 with the Christen inverted oil kit
installed. I wrote Lycoming and received the following reply:
"Thank you for your interest in Textron Lycoming engines for your Vans RV-8.
Actually, the only difference between the IO-360-A1B6 and the AEIO-360-A1B6
is the Christen aerobatic kit. The changes are in the sump and the
accessory housing so that oil flow can be maintained in inverted flight.
The crankshaft for the two engines are the same."
This should clear things up.
Steve Johnson
RV-8
finishing wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Helms <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | RE: To be instrument rated or not |
Whether or not you set up your airplane for instruments seems to me to be
merely a personal choice. But if the weather sucks, and you scud run you're
pushing your luck. If you're IFR rated (and so is your airplane) then file
IFR! If you aren't (or your airplane isn't) then go some other time.
In the Army, we would say, "I'd rather be on the ground wishing I was in
the air, than to be in the air wishing I was on the ground!"
John "JT" Helms
Former Army Helicopter Pilot
VanGuard Insurance Program Administrator.
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Oil Temps
Thread-Index: AcETuIZFiXtPug1CRaOPmcnxL5KHhwACd16w
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Paul,
If you're running 195 and if its 85-90 degrees out and your engine isn't
broken in yet then you're in pretty good shape, maybe a little on the
cool side. Ideally you want to see 180 degrees in cruise (and that's
the minimum for getting rid of moisture) at standard temperature, 220
max. No matter how much you fool with covering your oil cooler you will
see variations. 180-195 is pretty good. As your engine breaks in your
temps will come down, especially after the first oil change. You will
find in colder months you will have to block some of the inlet area to
maintain at least 180 degrees in cruise.
Bob Japundza
O-360C/S flying 180 hours
leaving for OSH Thurs. morning
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul Besing [mailto:pbesing(at)yahoo.com]
> Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 2:42 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Oil Temps
>
>
>
> Any guidlines out there on what the min/max oil temps
> should be for an O-360? I am running about 195
> currently.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A 197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
>
> http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: auto pilot disconnect on switch |
dear listers.
i have the navaid auto pilot and the say to break the power lead going to the
servo motor for stick mounted disconnect. i don't think the switches in the
mac servo is rated for these kind of amps. i quess i'm supposed to do like i
did with the flaps and make a relay deck. am i right on this?
scott
tampa
rv6a finishing wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re:ELT panel controls |
Mel,
There is no regulatory requirement for the remoter ELT switch to be on the
panel. You can put it anywhere you want just so long as you can reach it.
I used to have a Cherokee 140 with the switch on the left wall just above
the armrest.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Mel Jordan" <n6jx(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Re:ELT panel controls
>Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 17:48:18 -0700
>
>
>Can anyone point me to the regulations that govern where the ELT remote
>indicator/control panel needs to be mounted? I was looking at a location
>that is not on the instrument panel and wondering if the regs would permit
>this.
>
>Thanks,
>Mel Jordan
>Tucson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>Any guidlines out there on what the min/max oil temps
>should be for an O-360? I am running about 195
>currently.
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A 197AB Arizona
Paul,
195 is perfect. Don't be surprised if you get up over 200 on a long
climbout in the summertime heat. With my Niagara cooler, and cool collar on
the filter, I still get up to 220 on a long climb, but it comes back to
180-190 after a few minutes of cruise with higher airspeed and reduced
power. I think the altitude has a lot to do with it as well. On most of my
trip to and from Arlington, the oil never exceeded 200, but once I got into
higher terrain (Utah), and back to Albuquerque, it went right up again
during climbouts. High ambient temperature, and high density altitude,
makes for inefficient heat exchange. Simple as that. If you're not
redlining the oil temp (245 degrees) and running 195 in cruise and
maneuvering flight, you're doing just fine.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
high and hot and missing the cool air of Washington!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Are's IMC ordeal |
Looking at Trade-A-Plane in the hospital?? That's the spirit !!
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Robertson [mailto:mrobert569(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 11:38 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Are's IMC ordeal
Go out and fly safe.
Mike Robertson
PS. He was headed for Oshkosh. Maybe next year as I hear
he is already
looking at Trade-a-Plane in his hospital bed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Broken Wings, Inc." <jonsbro774(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Power |
Lycoming engines for sale.
Thanks,
Jon Turner
706.93PLANE (706.937.5263)
706.935.4663 Fax
www.BrokenWingsRus.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2001 1:38 PM
Subject: RV-List: Engine Power
>
> Dave,
>
> Just throwing in another perspective on your question.
>
> Contrary to popular belief, any engine's primary purpose (turbine or
> reciprocating) is to pump air using heat energy created by combustion. We
> then extract a little of that pumping action for the purpose of propulsion
> (roughly 25%). There are two simple rules for all engines.
>
> 1. The less air you have to pump, the less you will pump air. (seems a
> little redundant, but its fundamental to the power equation)
> 2. The more air you pump, the more power, or thrust you will produce.
(until
> something breaks, burns, frys, leaves formation, or transzeniates into an
> alternate reality)
>
> Neither of these rules care about RPM; but, most engines are optomized for
> some RPM that allows for maximum conversion of pumped air into power or
> thrust.(allowing for a multitude of factors)
>
> The CS just allows the engine to stayed "geared" for that optimum RPM,
much
> like a bicycle gear train does for your leg bones. Your leg bones can only
> push so hard regardless of the slope you're on. If the slope increases you
> increase the gear ratio, and trade speed for climbability, or VaV if the
> slope decreases.
>
> In the case of increasing altitude with a fairly constant slope the leg
> bones are just pushing less, due to less air (rule 1 & 2), but the rate at
> which they turn the pedals stays the same, because the CS prop reduces
blade
> pitch, or Load. (Interestingly, although the engine is producing less
power,
> the aircraft may not be traveling slower due to the increase in TAS at
> altitude)
>
> The way to maintain the same amount of air being pumped is to install an
> additional air pump on the engine's inlet, then keep the inlet at Sea
level
> pressure regardless of altitude. This is called a turbocharged "normalized
> engine",,, think $$$$$$$$$$$$$$
>
> WN
> APIA AP Instructor
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kenneth beene <kbeene(at)citilink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: auto pilot disconnect on switch |
Scott,
You are correct. I got a small relay from Radio Shack. I found it worked fine
to make it as a "lump" in the cable under the panel. It is small enough for some
one inch shrink tubing to cover it.
Ken
N94KB
> i have the navaid auto pilot and the say to break the power lead going to the
> servo motor for stick mounted disconnect. i don't think the switches in the
> mac servo is rated for these kind of amps. i quess i'm supposed to do like i
> did with the flaps and make a relay deck. am i right on this?
> scott
> tampa
> rv6a finishing wiring
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | efortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ***First Flight!!!!*** |
Congratulations Paul. Hope to be there some day myself. Sounds like you
did a
good job.
Earl RV4
Paul Besing wrote:
>
> Well, after 3 years, 4 months, two moves, active duty
> in the Army, N197AB finally took to the skies. After
> the nervousness subsided, I climbed in and made it
> happen. The tower folks at Deer Valley (DVT) were
> extremely helpful. I was cleared to circle the
> airport at 1000 feet above pattern altitude. Fellow
> RV Listers Larry Olson and Tom Velvick were present to
> help with the preflight, and help with the champagne
> consumption.
>
> Left wing is a little heavy. I suspect the flaps are
> not in trail. It was still controllable with a little
> opposite stick.
>
> Temps were running a little hot after 20 minutes. #3
> was hottest at about 235 C. Maybe cause it was a new
> engine, and 85 degrees outside.
>
> My RPM maxed out at 2250 with indicated airpspeed at
> 155 MPH in level flight. Maybe need a re-pitch, but
> I'm gonna wait until I have the engine broken in
> before I think about a re-pitch. No gear leg fairings
> or wheel pants installed, which are contributing to
> the whole numbers game. I do suspect my prop is a
> little overpitched, however.
>
> The encoding fuction of the uEncoder doesn't seem to
> be reporting altitude...time for some more wire
> chasing.
>
> Other than that, a pretty uneventful, and joyous
> flight. I know it's been said before, but I can't
> describe the feeling of flying an airplane that you
> built. Every rivet, every busted knuckle, every late
> night, every early morning, and any other hardship you
> can think of is worth it. You WILL forget about how
> much work it was, trust me!!!
>
> Thanks to Matt and everyone on the RV-List and RV
> community who have all lended hands (or words) to
> assist in making my dream come true!
>
> Keep poundin' the rivets....the grin will come!
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A 197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> FLYING!!!!
>
> http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: auto pilot disconnect on switch |
Where would you recommend getting the power for the relay?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV builders in Livermore,CA. |
I will be in the livermore CA, area for the week, till 7/30. any RV
builders in the area, I would like to stop in and see your project.
Chris Santschi RV8 Working on landing gear.
Festus, MO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve A. Rodgers" <steve(at)proficientifr.com> |
| Subject: | Southwest Fly-In Anyone? |
All this talk of Osh...
Is anyone going to the Southwest Fly-In? I can't make it to OSH this year,
but I would love to go the SWRFI. Can anyone comment on the number of RVs
expected there? I've ordered the preview plans for the RV-7/7A and I would
love to see one and sit in one before ordering the emp (I assume Van's will
have N137RV there).
Does anyone have a seat open in their RV (or any plane for that matter)? I
would be willing to pickup the gas. I fly out of KOJC or KLXT. Also, does
anyone have recommendations on a hotel?
--
Steve Rodgers
RV-7/7A Preview Plans - Amassing tools/building workshop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "House of D's" <durosset(at)fidnet.com> |
| Subject: | extended gear legs |
Read a For Sale ad on a RV-4. One part described a fault that made me
wonder how often it has happened if anyone had some experience with the
problem you could share. Ad read:
"At the 10 hr. inspection I took the cowl off and noticed two areas (one on
each side)
of the firewall that had buckeled....I called Van about it and talked to Mr.
Green. He said
other RV-4 builders have seen a similar problem, all having the new extended
gear legs.
His recommendation was to fly the aircraft and keep an eye on these areas"
Darryl DuRossette
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
| Subject: | Instrument holes |
Anyone have an easy way to cut the little extra you need for your VSI and
ALT instrument holes?
Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument holes |
--- Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> Anyone have an easy way to cut the little extra you need for your VSI
> and
> ALT instrument holes?
>
> Bill VonDane
You're talking about the cutout for the knob?
I did it the careful way - bought a piece of masonite, cut the hole,
dropped the instrument into the hole and marked/cut/nibbled the cutout
until the instrument fit. While the instrument was in the masonite,
marked horizontal and vertical lines referenced from the instrument.
Layed this template over the instrument panel, aligned vertical and
horizontal lines, drew hole plus cutout.
The key then is to drill the cutout first, before drilling the
instrument hole, because after drilling the larger hole the smaller
cannot be drilled (unless more than 1/2D from the edge of the
instrument hole - and most knobs don't extend that far) and you're left
with a lot of work with a rat-tail file.
After you've cut the hole for the instrument you can cut/file to meet
the hole drilled for the cutout.
Simple albeit lengthy, but worked on three instruments. I figured I
only had one chance (on metal) to do it right.
Did any of that make sense?
:)
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Nearly Complete Rv-4 and O-320 For Sale |
RV-4 Project For Sale. Fuselage on gear and finished other than riveting on
turtledeck and putting in your intruments and interior.Interior is already
painted as is the engine mount and gear legs. Wings just need top skins
riveted on. Tail is finished. Finishing kit included. Also included is a
Lycoming O-320-E2D with only 1976 TT. Engine taken off of Cessna 172 for
upgrade to 180HP. I personally checked the compression with the engine on
the airplane, and all cylinders are in the high 70's. Magnetos are less than
60 hours old. Logs included. First $23,000 will take all of this. This will
not last long. Please call 316-721-5670(home) or 316-210-5670(cell) and ask
for Todd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com> |
Tail kit, wing kit, and fuselage kit.
Tail complete minus fiberglass, firewall, spars, and F-604 completed.
Everything primered inside. A&P IA built in Wichita Kansas.
First $8300.00. Please contact me online or offline at 316-721-5670 or
316-210-5670(cell) and ask for Todd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument holes |
I used a carbide tipped plastic laminate trimmer bit in a router
Kevin
> Anyone have an easy way to cut the little extra you need for your VSI and
> ALT instrument holes?
>
> Bill VonDane
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Southwest Fly-In Anyone? |
| From: | "Michael Stephan" <mstephan(at)shr.net> |
I'm going.
The Fly-in is Sept 21 and 22, but SWRFI takes control over west runway at
noon on thursday, if you want to get there early.
RV's will probably dominate the fly-in again, as they do at most fly-ins.
Last year, the top three awards for custom built went to RV's, with Danny
King's "Beautiful Doll" getting the top spot.
Also, last year Van sent Scott Risan with the RV-9. It was in the air a lot
giving demo rides. My guess is the -7 will do the same this year.
For Hotels and stuff, there is plenty of information on the SWRFI web site
at www.swrfi.org Also, be sure and check the arrival procedure.
I hope to see you there.
--
Michael Stephan
just received my 8 QB fuselage and wing.
----------
>From: "Steve A. Rodgers" <steve(at)proficientifr.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Southwest Fly-In Anyone?
>Date: Mon, Jul 23, 2001, 9:20 PM
>
>
> All this talk of Osh...
>
> Is anyone going to the Southwest Fly-In? I can't make it to OSH this year,
> but I would love to go the SWRFI. Can anyone comment on the number of RVs
> expected there? I've ordered the preview plans for the RV-7/7A and I would
> love to see one and sit in one before ordering the emp (I assume Van's will
> have N137RV there).
>
> Does anyone have a seat open in their RV (or any plane for that matter)? I
> would be willing to pickup the gas. I fly out of KOJC or KLXT. Also, does
> anyone have recommendations on a hotel?
>
> --
> Steve Rodgers
> RV-7/7A Preview Plans - Amassing tools/building workshop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVilla <jodyvilla(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aerobatic engines |
Another "downside" to the AEIO engine is the 1400 hr tbo. Lycoming told me
that even if I convert my IO360 A1B6 to aerobatic configuration it would
automatically be considered a 1400 hr tbo engine.
Before I purchased my A1B6 I spoke to a Lycoming engineer and he told me
the only differences between the aerobatic and non aerobatic was the
Christen inverted system. The prop flange was the same as the non aerobatic
engine.
Jody Villa
Leaving for Osh tomorrow morning
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
If you have a certified engine with placard but you don't have logs, is it
treated as a non-certified engine since the history is un-documented? Does
this just affect fly-off time or more than that?
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: No Engine Logs? |
An engine without a log book is a Safety of Flight Time Bomb waiting to
go off. It really should be torn down, inspected and overhauled, as
needed. Sometimes the logs "disappear" for a reason, usually not
related to your continued good health.
Boyd.
Greg Tanner wrote:
>
>
> If you have a certified engine with placard but you don't have logs, is it
> treated as a non-certified engine since the history is un-documented? Does
> this just affect fly-off time or more than that?
>
> Greg
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight reports - electrical bugs |
I went back up to the airport last night and did some troubleshooting.
The schematic I used for the system is right from aeroelectrics diagrams
with just one minor variation. I used a fuse instead of a circuit breaker
in the field circuit after the master switch. This is supposed to be a
convieniently located breaker incase of a trip. This change shouldn't
effect the function of the circuit.
Bob's schematic uses his crowbar OV module to protect the electrical system
from a runaway alternator by shorting the breaker and disabling the field
circuit in the case of a OV situation on the electrical system. I did a
rough check of this using a battery charger with just the master switch
turned on. The battery charger raised the bus voltage to just below 14V
without blowing the field fuse. As soon as the engine is started the fuse
would blow.
Last night I removed the OV protector and did an "engine on" test and found
the feild circuit to be operating correctly at least from a bus voltage
standpoint. The voltage went to just over 14.5 by the meter in the panel.
The fuse for the field did not blow. My current conclusion/suspicion is the
OV module is prematurely tripping and blowing the fuse.
Any other ideas?
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
>From: "jayeandscott" <jayeandscott(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Flight reports - electrical bugs
>Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 13:54:09 -0700
>
>
>Just wondering if there is a problem with the return current flow from the
>starter back to the battery(I know the actual flow is the other way but
>this
>is the logic we wire on). If there's a poor connection between the engine
>and the battery ground terminal the return current will take whatever path
>is available, including the carb heat control cable and the throttle
>cable.Quickest,simplest way I can think to check this out is to put a
>booster cable( from your car trunk) from one of the starter mounting bolt
>heads directly to the battery negative and see if it still happens.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Pat Perry <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com>
>To:
>Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 6:03 AM
>Subject: RV-List: Flight reports - electrical bugs
>
>
> >
> > N154PK is running better and better with each flight, the engine seems
>to
>be
> > breaking in and developing much more power. The legs and pants helped
>get
> > things working better too. My climb is 1500fpm @ 90mph and 100% cruise
>has
> > increased to 190mph @2700RPM.
> >
> > I am having one problem with the electrical system, the fuse feeding the
> > alternator field blows as soon as the engine is started. I noticed the
>volt
> > meter never went oveer 12.5 even after the engine was running, I
>suspected
> > the alternator was not charging the battery so I checked things out and
> > found the fuse blown.
> >
> > My electrical system is a very basic Aeroelectric style system with the
>Ford
> > regulator and a Vans alternator. I used two fuses in the field circuit
> > instead of one fuse and one circuit breaker. I will be putting in the
> > breaker! The wiring is pretty basic and I've double checked all the
> > connections. With the engine off, master on, and a new fuse in the
>field
> > circuit everything is OK, I used a battery charger to raise the voltage
>on
> > the circuit up to 14V to check the OV protector wasn't tripping early,
>it
> > wasn't. Fuse is still OK. As soon as the engine is cranked over the
>fuse
> > blows.
> >
> > My next step is to get a new regulator and plug it into the harness,
>that
>is
> > the only thing that I suspect could cause this type of failure. If
>anyone
> > else has a good idea let me know!
> >
> > Pat Perry
> > Dallas, PA
> > RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
The short answer is 'NO', it is not treated as a non-certificate engine.
The problem is the ADs which are in the logs. No logs, no history of AD
compliance. And if it is a certificated engine the inspector/DAR is going
to want to know the status of all ADs prior to issuing the Special
Airworthiness Certificate.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: No Engine Logs?
>Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 09:20:18 -0700
>
>
>If you have a certified engine with placard but you don't have logs, is it
>treated as a non-certified engine since the history is un-documented? Does
>this just affect fly-off time or more than that?
>
>Greg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Wow,
What a response, I received over 20 requests for hanger pics.
Unfortunately when I went looking for the file I couldn't find it.
I'm not going to be able to get new pics for at least another week so if
you can't wait call Larry. I'm sure he will be happy to send you a pic
of the new hangers.
Garry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
abatterystore.com
Same guys who sell the odyssey for $74 shipping included are running a deal
on Varta AA and AAA alkaline batteries.
$15 for 50 of them.
Garmin 295 users, stock up.
Don Mei
N92CT
RV-4 3B9 - Chester, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | how to add construction time to project |
On my first attempt to start the engine, we found an oil leak. It was
determined that the plug which holds the idler gear for the prop governor
was not correct. So the bad part was removed and the correct part ordered
(be careful with used engines, who knows what parts have been used). While
I was getting the correct part, my building partner reached in and removed
the shaft (Curiosity killed the cat). Now I have a metal key and gear loose
inside the engine case. Best hope is that we will be able to get the parts
by taking off just the closest cylinder but I really think the engine will
have to be removed and completely taken apart.
You all have a good day. I AM NOT HAVING ONE.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: how to add construction time to project |
tom
can't you fish it out with a magnet on a cable?
scott
tampa
playing with paint schemes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
Tom,
I got a new set of pipes from Vetterman about 2 months ago. When did Larry
change the system, and do I have them????
Does the change affect the 4 pipe version (which I have) as well as the
crossover syetm??
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Garry LeGare
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 3:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: Exhaust Hangers
Wow,
What a response, I received over 20 requests for hanger pics.
Unfortunately when I went looking for the file I couldn't find it.
I'm not going to be able to get new pics for at least another week so if
you can't wait call Larry. I'm sure he will be happy to send you a pic
of the new hangers.
Garry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Kitz" <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
| Subject: | Re: No Engine Logs? |
I can attest to that. I advertized a sump on the list years ago and it had
my engine plate on it. I received an email from a lister doubling the price
he would pay for the sump with the plate if I would also include the log
book.
What do you suppose he was going to do?
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
> An engine without a log book is a Safety of Flight Time Bomb waiting to
> go off. It really should be torn down, inspected and overhauled, as
> needed. Sometimes the logs "disappear" for a reason, usually not
> related to your continued good health.
>
> Boyd.
>
>
> Greg Tanner wrote:
> >
> >
> > If you have a certified engine with placard but you don't have logs, is
it
> > treated as a non-certified engine since the history is un-documented?
Does
> > this just affect fly-off time or more than that?
> >
> > Greg
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2001 8:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV's and IFR
> Hi Scott:
>
> If you ever got inverted in actual instrument conditions you in all
> likelihood have ended your flying career weather you had a artificial
> horizon or not, you would never let the situation advance to this stage.
>
> Generally what happens to anyone with no instrument experience when you
> loose sight of the horizon a state of panic sets in the aircraft will
start
> a gentle turn to the left due to the effects of torque and as in any turn
> the nose starts to drop all of this you are usually unaware of. The first
> real indication of trouble is when the sound changes and there is a marked
> increase in airspeed. The natural reaction is pull the nose up to control
> the airspeed this drops the nose even further and starts the spiral and
> usually because of the shear terror usually the throttle is no even
closed,
> by now the airspeed is well beyond the red line and increasing rapidly.
Now
> more elevator force is put in and the resulting G's combined with the out
of
> control airspeed fails the aircraft structure. This whole sequence from
the
> time you enter cloud to structural failure varies but usually is 2-3
> minutes. In the case of lost reference during scud running impact with the
> ground would probably be in the area of 30 seconds.
>
> If one is trying to maintain VFR in an aircraft equipped only with the
basic
> VFR instruments and this would have to include a turn and bank indicator,
> lets take a worst case scenario and probably a common one were visual
> reference is lost in a turn close to the ground you would immediately stop
> the turn using the T and B by centering the needle or leveling the bar
> depending on the type of indicator you have and at the same time centering
> the ball and establishing a positive rate of climb using the vertical
speed
> indicator you are now back in level flight and climbing weather it feels
> like it or not. Decide on the rate of climb based on the type of terrain,
in
> the RV holding 1000 fpm at 24 square the airspeed will settle down around
> 140 mph indicated. Direction control is maintained with the compass, this
is
> were a vertical card compass comes in handy. At a safe altitude leveled
> out(or preferably on top) if you are going to turn use your T and B, with
> the needle or bar covering the mark on either side of center one minute
will
> give you 180 degrees.
>
> If you have had only minimal instrument training and survived a experience
> like this as soon as you get your shorts changed you will probably start
> getting some more instrument training.
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2001 11:21 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV's and IFR
>
>
> >
> >
> > << With proper training this can be safely done with
> > nothing more that a vertical speed, sensitive altimeter, turn and bank
> > and a compass. >>
> >
> > eustace,
> > wouldn't you need a attitude indicator to now if you were upside down?
> >
> > scott
> > tampa
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: how to add construction time to project |
I recommend one of those magnets on a telescoping wand. Mine has saved my
bacon many times. You can get them at most auto jobber shops.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Stands for RV-9A |
If anyone in the Portland Or. area would like to borrow a set of wing
stands for an RV-9A I would certainly be willing to loan them.....I do
see another "9" in the future so I would like them returned.
I also have saddles for the tanks/leading edge and for the
flap/ailerons. If you have a need for these contact me off list and I
will give you my phone number.
Gene 90296 Wings gene(at)nvaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Southwest Fly-In |
Some things to keep in mind if going to this fly-in:
Most of the plane parking area is off limits during the airshow so you can't
examine your favorite RV during the show. The airshow planes fly over that
area. So, be sure to get all your airplane looking done on Saturday before
the airshow. As soon as the airshow is over, there is a mad dash to the
plane parking area by the owners who crank em up and leave!
Get your hotel reservations now! This is a big fly in and rooms become hard
to come by.
These things I know,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
RV6
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Stephan <mstephan(at)shr.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 10:51 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Southwest Fly-In Anyone?
>
> I'm going.
>
> The Fly-in is Sept 21 and 22, but SWRFI takes control over west runway at
> noon on thursday, if you want to get there early.
>
> RV's will probably dominate the fly-in again, as they do at most fly-ins.
> Last year, the top three awards for custom built went to RV's, with Danny
> King's "Beautiful Doll" getting the top spot.
>
> Also, last year Van sent Scott Risan with the RV-9. It was in the air a
lot
> giving demo rides. My guess is the -7 will do the same this year.
>
> For Hotels and stuff, there is plenty of information on the SWRFI web site
> at www.swrfi.org Also, be sure and check the arrival procedure.
>
> I hope to see you there.
>
> --
> Michael Stephan
> just received my 8 QB fuselage and wing.
>
> ----------
> >From: "Steve A. Rodgers" <steve(at)proficientifr.com>
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: Southwest Fly-In Anyone?
> >Date: Mon, Jul 23, 2001, 9:20 PM
> >
>
> >
> > All this talk of Osh...
> >
> > Is anyone going to the Southwest Fly-In? I can't make it to OSH this
year,
> > but I would love to go the SWRFI. Can anyone comment on the number of
RVs
> > expected there? I've ordered the preview plans for the RV-7/7A and I
would
> > love to see one and sit in one before ordering the emp (I assume Van's
will
> > have N137RV there).
> >
> > Does anyone have a seat open in their RV (or any plane for that matter)?
I
> > would be willing to pickup the gas. I fly out of KOJC or KLXT. Also,
does
> > anyone have recommendations on a hotel?
> >
> > --
> > Steve Rodgers
> > RV-7/7A Preview Plans - Amassing tools/building workshop
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | 220 Franklin for RV-8 |
For all you -8 builders looking for an alternative engine, the Franklin
might be an option. I don't know anything about this company but I do
know that that the 220 Franklin is a very nice retrofit in the Stinson
108 series of planes.
It looks like they'll have a firewall forward kit in the near future.
http://www.franklinengines.com/homebuilts.html
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Carl Froehlich
To: rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 8:57 PM
Subject: RE: [rv8list] Weight and Balance
Follow Van's drawing to make the HP fuel pump mount. Cut a 2" double
male
scat tube bulkhead flange in half (along the long axis). It makes two
saddles. Use .063 angle attached the remaining flange for a mount to
screw
into the forward floor or the forward side of the left landing gear
tower.
Attach the HP pump the saddles with hose clamps.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (systems install)
Vienna, VA
KV4U
-----Original Message-----
From: w4ppn(at)aol.com [mailto:w4ppn(at)aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 8:32 PM
To: rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [rv8list] Weight and Balance
Hey I am a 314 pound 6 foot 3 inch hombre rearing to go boring holes
in the
sky in the RV-8. Does all this mean that I have to put another
battery in
the back? I already have the one battery back there, all from reading
the
advice of you who have gone before.
What kind of simple solutions have those who are ahead of me used for
mounting your high pressure boost pump? I am looking at taking a
piece of
aluminum rectangle stock and cutting a semicircle in it and then
lining it
with some rubber tubing and laying the pump in there and holding it
down
with
a screw clamp. Any better ideas?
Howard Cochran
1/2 of 80188 Sloooow Build.
Wiring, fuel pump and fuel lines.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
IF YOU WISH TO UNSUBSCRIBE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO :
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Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV's and IFR |
Eustuce,
I've loved reading your advice and words of wisdom through out the past few
years. The situitation you just described happened to me a few months ago
coming back from the Twin City RV forum in my Stinson. While I didn't get
inverted, I did get trapped between the ground and the clouds and had to use
my IFR training (I'm IFR Certified) to get me through a 3000' layer and back
on top. The Stinson has an inadaquate AI and DG so I used the T&S, airspeed
and VSI to get myself and my wife on top. Why I was in this situitation in
the first place is a topic for another discussion.
I have a question however, You mention that your primary instrument for
climb should be the VSI. I have to challange this and ask, "shouldn't it be
the airspeed indicator once you get to a wings level condition"? If I try
to rely on my VSI and density altitude is a problem, wouldn't I be better
off pitching for airspeed and letting the VSI do what it may?
Thanks
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM (res) Building Flaps
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
>
> > Hi Scott:
> >
> > If you ever got inverted in actual instrument conditions you in all
> > likelihood have ended your flying career weather you had a artificial
> > horizon or not, you would never let the situation advance to this stage.
> >
> > Generally what happens to anyone with no instrument experience when you
> > loose sight of the horizon a state of panic sets in the aircraft will
> start
> > a gentle turn to the left due to the effects of torque and as in any
turn
> > the nose starts to drop all of this you are usually unaware of. The
first
> > real indication of trouble is when the sound changes and there is a
marked
> > increase in airspeed. The natural reaction is pull the nose up to
control
> > the airspeed this drops the nose even further and starts the spiral and
> > usually because of the shear terror usually the throttle is no even
> closed,
> > by now the airspeed is well beyond the red line and increasing rapidly.
> Now
> > more elevator force is put in and the resulting G's combined with the
out
> of
> > control airspeed fails the aircraft structure. This whole sequence from
> the
> > time you enter cloud to structural failure varies but usually is 2-3
> > minutes. In the case of lost reference during scud running impact with
the
> > ground would probably be in the area of 30 seconds.
> >
> > If one is trying to maintain VFR in an aircraft equipped only with the
> basic
> > VFR instruments and this would have to include a turn and bank
indicator,
> > lets take a worst case scenario and probably a common one were visual
> > reference is lost in a turn close to the ground you would immediately
stop
> > the turn using the T and B by centering the needle or leveling the bar
> > depending on the type of indicator you have and at the same time
centering
> > the ball and establishing a positive rate of climb using the vertical
> speed
> > indicator you are now back in level flight and climbing weather it feels
> > like it or not. Decide on the rate of climb based on the type of
terrain,
> in
> > the RV holding 1000 fpm at 24 square the airspeed will settle down
around
> > 140 mph indicated. Direction control is maintained with the compass,
this
> is
> > were a vertical card compass comes in handy. At a safe altitude leveled
> > out(or preferably on top) if you are going to turn use your T and B,
with
> > the needle or bar covering the mark on either side of center one minute
> will
> > give you 180 degrees.
> >
> > If you have had only minimal instrument training and survived a
experience
> > like this as soon as you get your shorts changed you will probably start
> > getting some more instrument training.
> >
> > Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2001 11:21 AM
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: RV's and IFR
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > << With proper training this can be safely done with
> > > nothing more that a vertical speed, sensitive altimeter, turn and
bank
> > > and a compass. >>
> > >
> > > eustace,
> > > wouldn't you need a attitude indicator to now if you were upside down?
> > >
> > > scott
> > > tampa
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis /Fran Flamini" <flamini2(at)home.com> |
> Paul, i just got back from delivering a new Tailwind to Oshkosh and
stopped in Barriboo, Wisc to see a new one with 0-360 that had 215 deg oil
temp after a short flight. It had positech cooler with hose from back of
baffle to cooler. They tried new vernatherm, no vernatherm with bypass valve
and finally got it to 195 deg by mounting the cooler on the rear baffle.Got
it all back together to arrive at Oshkosh Monday about noon. Dennis Flamini,
Chicago PS, i think 245 deg is redline.
> Any guidlines out there on what the min/max oil temps
> should be for an O-360? I am running about 195
> currently.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A 197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
>
> http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Cessna - style flap switch in RV? |
Just wondering... I really like the flap switches on the C-172s I fly- late
70s early 80s N and P models. Maybe they used the flap switch on other
models, too- but I don't fly those. It has a long travel with detents at
10,20,30,40 degrees, but you can actually set it anywhere you want. So you
don't have to hold down the flap switch for set time periods- you just put
it where you want the flaps to go and it stops when its there. Wow- that's
a bad description, but if you've used one I'm sure you'd remember it. Has
anyone put one of these in an RV, and did it work with our flap actuator?
It seems like a pilot workload reliever to me and I expect to have my hands
full transitioning in from Cessnas, which are all my FBO has available for
rent.
Matthew
-8A canopy N48PP reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV's and IFR |
Hi Mike:
You are absolutely right, in this case I am referring to the RVonly were you
know the performance of the aircraft and can immediately get into a rate of
climb that will hopefully get you clear of the surrounding terrain as soon
as possible I guess my wording wasn't that great, as you say the rate of
climb must be based on the airspeed.. For those off us that fly RV's we are
so fortunate that we have such high performance that some of the old rules
can be bent a little bit. My RV6 will climb out at full throttle at 1000 ft
elevation at around 1800 FPM and will still climb 1000 FPM at 8000 ft.
In actual training for all types of aircraft it is as you say, needle ball
and airspeed.
Eustace
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 7:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV's and IFR
>
>
> Eustuce,
>
> I've loved reading your advice and words of wisdom through out the past
few
> years. The situitation you just described happened to me a few months ago
> coming back from the Twin City RV forum in my Stinson. While I didn't get
> inverted, I did get trapped between the ground and the clouds and had to
use
> my IFR training (I'm IFR Certified) to get me through a 3000' layer and
back
> on top. The Stinson has an inadaquate AI and DG so I used the T&S,
airspeed
> and VSI to get myself and my wife on top. Why I was in this situitation
in
> the first place is a topic for another discussion.
>
> I have a question however, You mention that your primary instrument for
> climb should be the VSI. I have to challange this and ask, "shouldn't it
be
> the airspeed indicator once you get to a wings level condition"? If I try
> to rely on my VSI and density altitude is a problem, wouldn't I be better
> off pitching for airspeed and letting the VSI do what it may?
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
> Plainfield, IL
> RV6 N699BM (res) Building Flaps
> Stinson 108-2 N9666K
>
>
> >
> > > Hi Scott:
> > >
> > > If you ever got inverted in actual instrument conditions you in all
> > > likelihood have ended your flying career weather you had a artificial
> > > horizon or not, you would never let the situation advance to this
stage.
> > >
> > > Generally what happens to anyone with no instrument experience when
you
> > > loose sight of the horizon a state of panic sets in the aircraft will
> > start
> > > a gentle turn to the left due to the effects of torque and as in any
> turn
> > > the nose starts to drop all of this you are usually unaware of. The
> first
> > > real indication of trouble is when the sound changes and there is a
> marked
> > > increase in airspeed. The natural reaction is pull the nose up to
> control
> > > the airspeed this drops the nose even further and starts the spiral
and
> > > usually because of the shear terror usually the throttle is no even
> > closed,
> > > by now the airspeed is well beyond the red line and increasing
rapidly.
> > Now
> > > more elevator force is put in and the resulting G's combined with the
> out
> > of
> > > control airspeed fails the aircraft structure. This whole sequence
from
> > the
> > > time you enter cloud to structural failure varies but usually is 2-3
> > > minutes. In the case of lost reference during scud running impact with
> the
> > > ground would probably be in the area of 30 seconds.
> > >
> > > If one is trying to maintain VFR in an aircraft equipped only with the
> > basic
> > > VFR instruments and this would have to include a turn and bank
> indicator,
> > > lets take a worst case scenario and probably a common one were visual
> > > reference is lost in a turn close to the ground you would immediately
> stop
> > > the turn using the T and B by centering the needle or leveling the bar
> > > depending on the type of indicator you have and at the same time
> centering
> > > the ball and establishing a positive rate of climb using the vertical
> > speed
> > > indicator you are now back in level flight and climbing weather it
feels
> > > like it or not. Decide on the rate of climb based on the type of
> terrain,
> > in
> > > the RV holding 1000 fpm at 24 square the airspeed will settle down
> around
> > > 140 mph indicated. Direction control is maintained with the compass,
> this
> > is
> > > were a vertical card compass comes in handy. At a safe altitude
leveled
> > > out(or preferably on top) if you are going to turn use your T and B,
> with
> > > the needle or bar covering the mark on either side of center one
minute
> > will
> > > give you 180 degrees.
> > >
> > > If you have had only minimal instrument training and survived a
> experience
> > > like this as soon as you get your shorts changed you will probably
start
> > > getting some more instrument training.
> > >
> > > Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
> > > To:
> > > Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2001 11:21 AM
> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: RV's and IFR
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > << With proper training this can be safely done with
> > > > nothing more that a vertical speed, sensitive altimeter, turn and
> bank
> > > > and a compass. >>
> > > >
> > > > eustace,
> > > > wouldn't you need a attitude indicator to now if you were upside
down?
> > > >
> > > > scott
> > > > tampa
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 9 Quickbuild kit delayed |
> Does anyone have any further info?
> Thanks,
> Paul
> RV9 emp 90355
How about us coming up with some ideas to keep Paul building.
Do you want the flush wingtip lights? The wingtip and the flush kit are
probably available and could eat up 10 hours.
Planning a Rocky Mountain Engine Monitor? Another twenty hours. Could keep
going awhile more and also build the Encoder.
Tommy had a good idea about trying for a standard set of wings and saving
some quickbuild money. Can this be done on the 9 or are there wing fuselage
bulkhead pieces that have to match the wings?
Can any one else offer some ideas?
Norman Hunger
Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Hi Paul B. and Dennis F.
In "The Lycoming Flyer Key Reprints" on Pages 36, 37 and 38 in an article
under the heading "Leaning Textron Lycoming Engines" You will find a direct
reprint of "Service Instruction 1094D"
They state that:
"for maximum service life,maintain the following recommended limits for
continuous cruise operation:
(a) Engine power setting - 65% of rated or less.
(b) Cylinder head temperatures - 400 degrees F,or below.
(c)Oil temperature - 165 degrees F, - 220 degrees F.
This is their recommendation for both the normally aspirated and the
turbocharged engines in cruise.
Elsewhere in a Lycoming Engine Operators Manual for 0-360 and associated
models dated Jan. 1976 they say that the Desired oil temps should range as
follows:
Cold average ambient air (-10 degrees F) 160 degrees F, Maximum 210
degrees F
Hot average ambient air (above 60 degrees F) 180 degrees F Maximum 245
Degrees F
Since 1973 there may have been some changes to their recommendations but
overall there seems to be some reasonable range in allowable oil temps.
I got The publication called the Lycoming Flyer, Key Reprints for free at
their booth at Arlington. Also they should have them at Osh. for those of
you that want one.
They also offer them on their web site.
A good reference to have on hand.
does this help?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis /Fran Flamini" <flamini2(at)home.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 9:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Temps
>
PS, i think 245 deg is redline.
> > Any guidlines out there on what the min/max oil temps
> > should be for an O-360? I am running about 195
> > currently.
> >
> > Paul Besing
> > RV-6A 197AB Arizona
> > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> > Flying
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fran Malczynski" <ebafm(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Flight reports - electrical bugs |
Pat, when I did my initial test on my electrical system, my CB for the field
circuit would trip when I engaged the starter. In monitoring the
Aeroelectric list I found out that some of Bob's OV modules were susceptible
to noise transients (this was posted by Bob himself) and he offered to
update any module that exhibits this characteristic free of charge. I sent
mine to him and within a couple of weeks had an updated module in my hand.
You may want to give him a call.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 N594EF (finishing)
Olcott, NY
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pat Perry
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 13:16
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flight reports - electrical bugs
I went back up to the airport last night and did some troubleshooting.
The schematic I used for the system is right from aeroelectrics diagrams
with just one minor variation. I used a fuse instead of a circuit breaker
in the field circuit after the master switch. This is supposed to be a
convieniently located breaker incase of a trip. This change shouldn't
effect the function of the circuit.
Bob's schematic uses his crowbar OV module to protect the electrical system
from a runaway alternator by shorting the breaker and disabling the field
circuit in the case of a OV situation on the electrical system. I did a
rough check of this using a battery charger with just the master switch
turned on. The battery charger raised the bus voltage to just below 14V
without blowing the field fuse. As soon as the engine is started the fuse
would blow.
Last night I removed the OV protector and did an "engine on" test and found
the feild circuit to be operating correctly at least from a bus voltage
standpoint. The voltage went to just over 14.5 by the meter in the panel.
The fuse for the field did not blow. My current conclusion/suspicion is the
OV module is prematurely tripping and blowing the fuse.
Any other ideas?
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
>From: "jayeandscott" <jayeandscott(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Flight reports - electrical bugs
>Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 13:54:09 -0700
>
>
>Just wondering if there is a problem with the return current flow from the
>starter back to the battery(I know the actual flow is the other way but
>this
>is the logic we wire on). If there's a poor connection between the engine
>and the battery ground terminal the return current will take whatever path
>is available, including the carb heat control cable and the throttle
>cable.Quickest,simplest way I can think to check this out is to put a
>booster cable( from your car trunk) from one of the starter mounting bolt
>heads directly to the battery negative and see if it still happens.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Pat Perry <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com>
>To:
>Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 6:03 AM
>Subject: RV-List: Flight reports - electrical bugs
>
>
> >
> > N154PK is running better and better with each flight, the engine seems
>to
>be
> > breaking in and developing much more power. The legs and pants helped
>get
> > things working better too. My climb is 1500fpm @ 90mph and 100% cruise
>has
> > increased to 190mph @2700RPM.
> >
> > I am having one problem with the electrical system, the fuse feeding the
> > alternator field blows as soon as the engine is started. I noticed the
>volt
> > meter never went oveer 12.5 even after the engine was running, I
>suspected
> > the alternator was not charging the battery so I checked things out and
> > found the fuse blown.
> >
> > My electrical system is a very basic Aeroelectric style system with the
>Ford
> > regulator and a Vans alternator. I used two fuses in the field circuit
> > instead of one fuse and one circuit breaker. I will be putting in the
> > breaker! The wiring is pretty basic and I've double checked all the
> > connections. With the engine off, master on, and a new fuse in the
>field
> > circuit everything is OK, I used a battery charger to raise the voltage
>on
> > the circuit up to 14V to check the OV protector wasn't tripping early,
>it
> > wasn't. Fuse is still OK. As soon as the engine is cranked over the
>fuse
> > blows.
> >
> > My next step is to get a new regulator and plug it into the harness,
>that
>is
> > the only thing that I suspect could cause this type of failure. If
>anyone
> > else has a good idea let me know!
> >
> > Pat Perry
> > Dallas, PA
> > RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | throttle @ switch consoles for the rv-8, 8A |
Listers it is finally time for me to install my
throttle and breaker switch consoles. I have tried in
vain to be comfortable flying with my right hand but
to no avail. What I intend to do is install the
throttle quadrant on the right hand side of the
aircraft. DO any of you know where I can purchase, or
will the current throttle quadrant retrofit to the
right hand side of the aircraft?
Help.
Glenn Williams
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cessna - style flap switch in RV? |
Matt,
Good question. I will be trying to figure out some kind of flap position
indicator, but the Cessna style switch is equally as good, if not better.
Someone told me once that the flaps on RVs are normally used fully deployed
or fully retracted. This doesn't seem right, and I'd like to hear from
others who have RV experience.
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A N143DJ
Wings
>From: Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Cessna - style flap switch in RV?
>Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 21:34:06 -0700
>
>
>Just wondering... I really like the flap switches on the C-172s I fly- late
>70s early 80s N and P models. Maybe they used the flap switch on other
>models, too- but I don't fly those. It has a long travel with detents at
>10,20,30,40 degrees, but you can actually set it anywhere you want. So you
>don't have to hold down the flap switch for set time periods- you just put
>it where you want the flaps to go and it stops when its there. Wow- that's
>a bad description, but if you've used one I'm sure you'd remember it. Has
>anyone put one of these in an RV, and did it work with our flap actuator?
>It seems like a pilot workload reliever to me and I expect to have my hands
>full transitioning in from Cessnas, which are all my FBO has available for
>rent.
>
>Matthew
>-8A canopy N48PP reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Schalme <bschalme(at)airspeed.mb.ca> |
| Subject: | RV Wannabe Goes For His First Flight |
Wow!!!!!
On Tuesday 16 July 2001 Mike Toews was kind enough to take me for a
ride in his RV-4 C-GFEW. I was simply amazed. The performance and speed
of this aircraft is incredible!
As I strapped myself in, we did some quick weight calculations and
determined that we were a few pounds over the aerobatic gross. No
serious aerobatics. No problem said I, the gross weight is there for a
reason.
So we powered up and took off. Now, having flown in 182s, 206s,
Caravans, Twatters and Porters when skydiving, it blew me away to see
this aircraft get off the ground in less than 500 feet. I gazed out the
canopy and saw planet Earth open up before me. Wow! Those of you who who
are flying these RVs have way too much fun. (I gotta make myself one of
these!).
Once we got to cruising altitude, Mike asked me how much stick time I
had. "Well, several hours on Microsoft Flight Simulator and about ten
minutes in a Katana." So he had me place my hand on the stick as he
demonstrated the responsiveness of the controls. Wow! Amazing! So Mike
gave me control. Wow, you just think about where you want to go and
you're going there! If I took the amount of control input I would give a
Katana to make a gentle bank and applied that to Mike's RV-4, we would
be in a very steep bank.
So, after we burned off some fuel we did a gentle loop and a roll.
While briefly inverted in the loop I recalled the scene from Top Gun
where Tom Cruise is flying over the Soviet MIG, er, T-38 and
not-so-politely gestures him to leave his airspace. Just prior to the
roll, Mike told me if I closed my yes it would feel like we didn't move
at all. "Are you kidding? I want to see this!" WooHoo!!! Fun, fun, fun.
OK, let's figure this out: Get private pilot license, buy house with
nice garage, order empennage kit... Spouse wants to know when I'm going
to build an RV so she can go for more rides. Oh yeah, spouse reminds me
to get some juicy long-term contracts. Funny how money always enters the
equation :).
So we made our way back home to the Steinbach North airport (I'm sure
glad Mike was navigating). What seemed like a ten minute flight was
actually half an hour. Thank you Mike for the incredible ride. (Let me
know when you have a light fuel load and don't mind taking a passenger
up for some more aerobatics.)
Blue Skies!
Brian Schalme
RV-8 Dreaming and goal setting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cessna - style flap switch in RV? |
> Someone told me once that the flaps on RVs are normally used fully
> deployed
> or fully retracted. This doesn't seem right, and I'd like to hear
> from
> others who have RV experience.
>
Different strokes and all that (for different configurations), but Mike
Seagar teaches 3 seconds at the numbers, 3 seconds base, the remainder
as needed. This with electric flaps in a fixed-pitch RV-6.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | throttle @ switch consoles for the rv-8, 8A |
I think the current quad(s) that Van sells could easily be used on either
side......and I don't think you would even have to do anything to them...
Here is a pic of mine on my bench that just happens to be laying the
opposite way of how it would be installed on the left side of the fuse...
Check it out...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/fusepj/fuse51.jpg
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
mailto:bill(at)vondane.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of glenn williams
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 6:44 AM
Subject: RV-List: throttle @ switch consoles for the rv-8, 8A
Listers it is finally time for me to install my
throttle and breaker switch consoles. I have tried in
vain to be comfortable flying with my right hand but
to no avail. What I intend to do is install the
throttle quadrant on the right hand side of the
aircraft. DO any of you know where I can purchase, or
will the current throttle quadrant retrofit to the
right hand side of the aircraft?
Help.
Glenn Williams
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Right Rudder Tension |
>When flying today I was not coordinated.
Now THIS is a ripe opportunity for a jab. ;)
About 1 1/2
>balls off. I tried right rudder, and for the life of
>me could not push hard enough to keep it from yawing
>left. I suspected I had a cable hung up on something,
>but that was not the case. I got back to the hanger
>and had a friend push against me while I pushed the
>rudder pedals. He did not have to push hardly at all
>to provide enough force for me not to be able to push
>the pedal. I'm thoroughly confused. Any ideas?
You do have full, free and correct travel of the rudder per plans, right?
If you do, and can find no place where the cables are hanging up, then
double check your rigging. Maybe there is an offset in the VS. I think I
was lucky in that my plane flies ball centered in level flight with no
rudder pressure required. Every plane is different in this regard.
Go check your rigging and maybe even the cable lengths. Who knows, maybe one
is longer than the other, making for a loss of authority on one side. If it
was not doing this on your other flights, then something has changed and you
MUST find out why.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
240 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Nearly Complete Rv-4 and O-320 For Sale |
RV-4 Project For Sale. Fuselage on gear and finished other than riveting on
turtledeck and putting in your intruments and interior.Interior is already
painted as is the engine mount and gear legs. Wings just need top skins
riveted on. Tail is finished. Finishing kit included. Also included is a
Lycoming O-320-E2D with only 1976 TT. Engine taken off of Cessna 172 for
upgrade to 180HP. I personally checked the compression with the engine on
the airplane, and all cylinders are in the high 70's. Magnetos are less than
60 hours old. Logs included. First $23,000 will take all of this. This will
not last long. Please call 316-721-5670(home) or 316-210-5670(cell) and ask
for Todd. Located in Wichita Kansas. I will have some pictures to send if
you give me a call.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com> |
Tail kit, wing kit, and fuselage kit.
Tail complete minus fiberglass, firewall, spars, and F-604 completed.
Everything primered inside. A&P IA built in Wichita Kansas.
First $8300.00. Please contact me online or offline at 316-721-5670 or
316-210-5670(cell) and ask for Todd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roy Vosberg <Roy.Vosberg(at)veritas.com> |
| Subject: | Free RV-6 tail and wing kit with purchase |
For Sale:
3 bedroom, 2.5 bath, 2 story home with large 3 car garage. Included in this
amazing offer is a RV-6 tail and wing kit. But wait, there's more! You
also get a steel emp/wing jig already set up in large clean and dry
basement. You are ready to start riveting the same day you close on the
house. Large 3 car garage has plenty of room for that future fuselage jig.
Home is located near the corner of base and final of 16, South St. Paul,
Fleming Field, SGS. Also 15 minute drive to Minneapolis International,
MSP. For an additional charge, I may also be willing to sell my share in
local flying club, so that you have easy access to aircraft while you are
building. Asking price is $224,900. Don't delay. This is a one time
offer.
Pictures of project and workshop available on request.
Roy Vosberg
(scheming to get into a 7 kit)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | throttle @ switch consoles for the rv-8, 8A |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: throttle @ switch consoles for the rv-8, 8A
Thread-Index: AcEVDQodXze9hTklS4GnXMOCqvJmEwADgkrg
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Glenn,
I find that I switch hands in flight...it just happens subconsciously.
Sometimes I'll fly with my right, sometimes with my left, and sometimes
with both hands on the stick ;). I used to worry about the same sort of
thing but it really isn't a big deal. I have MAC stick grips installed,
so it is hand-neutral. If I were you, I'd install the quadrant on the
left side and I'll bet in 5-10 hours you'll get used to it and never
think about it again.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 180 hours
> -----Original Message-----
> From: glenn williams [mailto:willig10(at)yahoo.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 7:44 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: throttle @ switch consoles for the rv-8, 8A
>
>
>
> Listers it is finally time for me to install my
> throttle and breaker switch consoles. I have tried in
> vain to be comfortable flying with my right hand but
> to no avail. What I intend to do is install the
> throttle quadrant on the right hand side of the
> aircraft. DO any of you know where I can purchase, or
> will the current throttle quadrant retrofit to the
> right hand side of the aircraft?
>
> Help.
>
> Glenn Williams
>
>
> ====
> Glenn Williams
> 8A
> A&P
> N81GW
>
> http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Whitaker <rmwhitaker(at)lanl.gov> |
| Subject: | Plans Revisions Question |
I was glancing through my most recent RVator and
noticed plans revisions in the back. I'm building an
RV-9. I realized that there may have been earlier
revisions that I may have missed since I've only
been a subscriber to RVator during 2001. How does
one get a hold of all the revisions to the plans? Will
Van's send them out on request? Is there an
archive that I can access?
Rob
RV-9, wings, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Weight and Balance data |
Does anyone have their actual RV-4 weight and balance data. I'd like to
take a look and start getting familiar with what kind of CG loadings I can
expect. Being an RV-4 I now there are friends that I'm going to politely
tell they won't be able to go for a ride for their own safety. I'd like to
run some numbers though, knowing full well that my mileage may vary. Prefer
numbers from RV-4 with O-320 with wood prop. But I'll take what I can get.
Thanks!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: throttle @ switch consoles for the rv-8, 8A |
Also of importance, is where you intend to put your radio contols. You
want to able to minimize switching hands on the stick as much as
possible. As Bob J. mentioned, he Infinity and MAC grips can also be
very helpful in this regard.
In some of the older Navy jets, including the T-34C turboprop trainer,
the throttle, which had the transmit and intercom switch on it was on
the left and the radios were way over to the right, sometimes down in
what would be the "armrest" area. Thus you not only had to switch
hands, a lot, but you also had to take your eyes off the Lead and the
instrument panel and look down to make the radio changes. This could
make one a very busy pilot when flying solo in the soup. Baaaad ergonomics.
I have a very dominant right hand and flew most of my life with R hand
stick/L hand throttle. I anticipated many scary scenarios when
approaching my first flights in the L hand stick RV. I even planned on
redoing the whole instrument panel and installing a quadrant. But, it
turned out to be a non-issue. I just hopped in and started flying with
my left hand and never really had to consciously think about it.
Boyd.
glenn williams wrote:
>
>
> Listers it is finally time for me to install my
> throttle and breaker switch consoles. I have tried in
> vain to be comfortable flying with my right hand but
> to no avail. What I intend to do is install the
> throttle quadrant on the right hand side of the
> aircraft. DO any of you know where I can purchase, or
> will the current throttle quadrant retrofit to the
> right hand side of the aircraft?
>
> Help.
>
> Glenn Williams
>
> ====
> Glenn Williams
> 8A
> A&P
> N81GW
>
> http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | 9A glide speeds again |
Well I played glider pilot some more last night, (thanks for the spreadsheet
Cliff) and 85 seems to be the best at 600 FPM it pencils out to 12/1. Next I
plan to chop the power 12 miles away from the airport at 5300 AGL and see if
I can make it, from both directions. Plenty of light use airports around here
to practice these maneuvers.
Kevin -9A 50 hours
Apex, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | Primer Solenoid Orientation |
Mike Thompson & others,
Today I talked with a tech support person with Skinner Valve Division of
Parker about our solenoid valves. The inlet is marked "2" and the outlet is
marked "1" as previously reported. It turns out that this is important.
The fuel pressure is assisting with the sealing of the valve when "2" is the
inlet, not so if "1" is used as the inlet.
Therefore, it is quite possible that if the valve is plumbed wrong we could
experience reduced fuel pressure under some conditions. This would most
likely manifest itself as an increased tendency to vapor lock. (my guess,
not that of the tech rep.)
I will be replumbing mine. I hope this helps!
Ken Harrill
RV-6
Columbia, SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer Solenoid Orientation |
Ken,
I may be missing something here but why is fuel pressure an issue if the
only use of the valve is as a primer? The only function of the solenoid is
to open that pathway to the primer lines from the boost pump for maybe two
seconds. Are you using the valve for another purpose?
Ross
>
> Today I talked with a tech support person with Skinner Valve Division of
> Parker about our solenoid valves. The inlet is marked "2" and the outlet
is
> marked "1" as previously reported. It turns out that this is important.
> The fuel pressure is assisting with the sealing of the valve when "2" is
the
> inlet, not so if "1" is used as the inlet.
>
> Therefore, it is quite possible that if the valve is plumbed wrong we
could
> experience reduced fuel pressure under some conditions. This would most
> likely manifest itself as an increased tendency to vapor lock. (my guess,
> not that of the tech rep.)
>
> I will be replumbing mine. I hope this helps!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Compass Card Interference |
My modified -6 is a slider canopy with a vertical card compass hanging
from the front canopy strut/brace about 1/2" above the glareshield and
an inch above the intercom and about 6-7" above the com radio and
transponder. There is no significant change in the compass card
corrections when the avionics/intercom are on or off. I have seen many
other sliders with the same compass set-up and a glance at their compass
card corrections seem to be about average for most installations.
I wonder if this is some rumor that Van's folks picked up on or if it
came from planes with full IFR stacks (none of Van's demonstrators are
IFR equipped, as far as I know--too much weight for der Dutchman).
They are available from AC$pruce.
Other comments?
Boyd.
jayeandscott wrote:
>
>
> Don't know how to change the topic header but I was hoping to buy a
> vertical-card standby compass from Van's but they've dropped them from the
> catalogue. They said it was because there was too much interference from the
> radios when it was on top of the panel. Anyone have any experience with
> them?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer Solenoid Orientation |
--- Ken Harrill wrote:
>
> Mike Thompson & others,
>
> Today I talked with a tech support person with Skinner Valve Division
> of Parker about our solenoid valves.
That's great information, Ken! Thanks for taking the initiative.
Did you also confirm that the thing doesn't care about its orientation?
- Mike
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer Solenoid Orientation |
--- Ross Mickey wrote:
>
> Ken,
> I may be missing something here but why is fuel pressure an issue if
> the
> only use of the valve is as a primer? The only function of the
> solenoid is
> to open that pathway to the primer lines from the boost pump for
> maybe two
> seconds. Are you using the valve for another purpose?
>
> Ross
I think what they were saying is that the primer valve won't close
completely and some of the the fuel pressure might leak through the
primer...
OTOH that fuel would have to go somewhere - into the cylinders through
the primer ports I guess...
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | console position |
Listers I think you misunderstand what I am trying to
get at. I know I can make my throttle quadrant work on
the right hand side, What I am asking is will the
consoles swith from left hand to right hand and the
switch console go from the left hand side to the right
hand side? If not what can I do to make the consoles
switch without major modification to either console?
Thanks in advance
Glenn Williams
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
The info from Lycoming can be a little confusing. According to Shell
Oil, The Sky Ranch Manual and the A&P textbook series from Jeppesen,
the minimum oil temp should be 180 F (ideally, for 30 minutes) to burn
off water and aromatic compounds that pollute the oil and cause internal
corrosion. Lycoming uses a minimum oil temp of 140 F for continuos
operation., however this will not satisfy the oil contaminant problem.
Max temp should be 245 F. There is some debate whether the lower oil
temp limits of 225 F and 210 F, at progressively lower ambient air temps
is required. If shock cooling is a concern, then monitor the rate at
which the CHT drops--should be no more than 50 F/min. A manifold
pressure gauge is helpful in maintaining power to keep the cylinder
temps up.
CHTs should be max at 435 F for high performance cruise/climb and 400 F
for continuos operation at cruise.
Jim Jewell wrote:
>
>
> Hi Paul B. and Dennis F.
>
> In "The Lycoming Flyer Key Reprints" on Pages 36, 37 and 38 in an article
> under the heading "Leaning Textron Lycoming Engines" You will find a direct
> reprint of "Service Instruction 1094D"
>snip<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Setting fo Engine Monitor was: Oil Temps |
Boyd and all,
This discussion on oil temps is prompting me to ask this question. What
numbers are you all using to set the upper and lower limits for alarm
purposes in your engine monitoring systems? Specifically, I have a new O360
with constant speed prop.
Ross Mickey
> the minimum oil temp should be 180 F (ideally, for 30 minutes)
> Max temp should be 245 F.
> CHT drops--should be no more than 50 F/min.
> CHTs should be max at 435 F for high performance cruise/climb and 400 F
> for continuos operation at cruise.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin vs. UPS/Appollo |
I am planning an IFR stack in my RV-6A.
I have been leaning towards the following UPS products
> GX-60
> MX-20
> SL-15
> SL-30
> SL-70
Are there any Garmin fans out there that would recommend a stack with
similar features they believe is better.
(I hope this doesn't start another tail dragger vs. nose wheel fight!!!!)
Ross Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd W. Rudberg" <todd_rudberg(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Robbie Grove Gear Legs |
I just received my airfoil type gear legs from Grove Aircraft. How he
makes money on this is a mystery to me. They are nice. Nicest
component on the Aircraft so far. Gonna be hard to beat them too.
Worth every dime...and the wait.
Todd W. Rudberg
RV-8 Wings (N232TB Reserved)
mailto:todd_rudberg(at)yahoo.com
www.geocities.com/todd_rudberg
Home: (425)290-7526
Cell: (425)870-5300
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Weight and Balance data |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
07/25/2001 04:56:19 PM
I just had my RV-4 weighed. The completed aircraft (primed inside and out,
but not topcoated) weighs 1042lbs. I have an 0-360 with a constant speed
prop and a full instrument panel. The battery is located between my feet.
The center of gravity in this condition is 0.2" forward of the forward
limit. Assuming the plane always flies with a pilot of at least 50lbs, the
C.G. will always be aft of the forward limit. I expect that the paint will
force the C.G. further aft, but I don't have a good feel for how much
weight the paint will add.
With an 0-320 and a wood prop, your C.G. will be much further aft. I would
put as many "heavy" accessories as far forward as possible.
Dean Pichon
RV-4 (completed)
Waiting for the FAA to approve my test flight area
|--------+---------------------------------->
| | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" |
| | |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
| | ronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 07/25/01 12:51 PM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv-list |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------------->
|
|
| To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
|
| cc:
|
| bcc:
|
| Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Weight and Balance data
|
Does anyone have their actual RV-4 weight and balance data. I'd like to
take a look and start getting familiar with what kind of CG loadings I can
expect. Being an RV-4 I now there are friends that I'm going to politely
tell they won't be able to go for a ride for their own safety. I'd like to
run some numbers though, knowing full well that my mileage may vary.
Prefer
numbers from RV-4 with O-320 with wood prop. But I'll take what I can get.
Thanks!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
**** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one of
Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may contain
confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee
only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not
the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 9A glide speeds again |
Kevin,
Glad to hear the spreadsheet was helpful. I forgot to put the glide ratio on
the spreadsheet, glad you reminded me of it, I just added it to mine. Would
you mind forwarding the spreadsheet with all the different speed tests?
Thanks,
Cliff
>
> Well I played glider pilot some more last night, (thanks for the
spreadsheet
> Cliff) and 85 seems to be the best at 600 FPM it pencils out to 12/1. Next
I
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Stripped screws... |
OK, am I crazy here, or are the AN515-8R8 screws that we all received
with our kits next to worthless? No matter how carefully I turn them,
the phillips heads seem to strip out of at least 40% of them.
Has anyone else had this trouble? Is there an equivalent screw (pan
head, 8-32, 1/2") in stainless? What AN or MS number? I checked my
Spruce catalog and was unable to locate an exact replacement. Any
ideas?
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
mounting wings
groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Setting fo Engine Monitor was: Oil Temps |
Here is what I compiled from another lister in the
past, and recent data.
Oil Pressure: 25PSI
Fuel Pressure: 1PSI
CHT: 65min 220Max (Centigrade)
EGT? (Someone want to chime in here?)
Oil Temp: 75min 150 Max (Centigrade)
Carb Temp: 5 (Centigrade)
Ammeter 2 Amps
====
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 7/22/01
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
Mike,
Is there an easy way to do a search for all applicable ADs by model/serial
number?
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mike Robertson
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 11:45 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: No Engine Logs?
The short answer is 'NO', it is not treated as a non-certificate engine.
The problem is the ADs which are in the logs. No logs, no history of AD
compliance. And if it is a certificated engine the inspector/DAR is going
to want to know the status of all ADs prior to issuing the Special
Airworthiness Certificate.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: No Engine Logs?
>Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 09:20:18 -0700
>
>
>If you have a certified engine with placard but you don't have logs, is it
>treated as a non-certified engine since the history is un-documented? Does
>this just affect fly-off time or more than that?
>
>Greg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Garmin vs. UPS/Appollo |
Before you spring for any UPS GPS stuff, you might want to check to make
sure it will be WAAS upgradeable. Last time I checked (2 months ago) it
wasn't. I got the impression they were coming out with a new GPS in the
next year or so.
Matthew
8A canopy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ross Mickey
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 1:19 PM
Subject: RV-List: Garmin vs. UPS/Appollo
I am planning an IFR stack in my RV-6A.
I have been leaning towards the following UPS products
> GX-60
> MX-20
> SL-15
> SL-30
> SL-70
Are there any Garmin fans out there that would recommend a stack with
similar features they believe is better.
(I hope this doesn't start another tail dragger vs. nose wheel fight!!!!)
Ross Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Stripped screws... |
I had this problem and started using Boelube, a wax lubricant that looks
like a big chapstick, on the screw threads before using. Since then, no
more problems. I'm sure there are other products that do the same thing. I
also ordered a couple hundred extra screws, they're really really cheap, so
I won't have to reuse any.
Matthew
8A canopy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Balch
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 2:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: Stripped screws...
OK, am I crazy here, or are the AN515-8R8 screws that we all received
with our kits next to worthless? No matter how carefully I turn them,
the phillips heads seem to strip out of at least 40% of them.
Has anyone else had this trouble? Is there an equivalent screw (pan
head, 8-32, 1/2") in stainless? What AN or MS number? I checked my
Spruce catalog and was unable to locate an exact replacement. Any
ideas?
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
mounting wings
groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Right Rudder Tension |
In a message dated 7/25/01 1:31:37 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
pbesing(at)yahoo.com writes:
> When flying today I was not coordinated. About 1 1/2
> balls off. I tried right rudder, and for the life of
> me could not push hard enough to keep it from yawing
> left. I suspected I had a cable hung up on something,
> but that was not the case. I got back to the hanger
> and had a friend push against me while I pushed the
> rudder pedals. He did not have to push hardly at all
> to provide enough force for me not to be able to push
> the pedal. I'm thoroughly confused. Any ideas?
>
Was this at cruise speed? I'm about 1/2 ball off in cruise, 1 1/2 off in
climb unless I use the rudder. In climb, it does require a decent amount of
effort. It seems minor now, but at first, it seemed like a lot of effort.
One thing I found while building my airplane was that the metal end on the
rudder cable would hang on the bulkhead in the footwell. If you are pushing
the right pedal, the cable on the left pedal would be the one that hung, as
it moved opposite of the right pedal. In the end, I used some nylon tube to
make a fairlead over the first foot or so of the rudder cable and metal end.
This eliminated/prevented the problem
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stripped screws... |
Ken, we've used a bunch of them and no problem. Quality screw driver
with a tight fit.
Barry Pote RV9a Fuselage
AN515-8R8 screws that we all received
> with our kits next to worthless? No matter how carefully I turn them,
> the phillips heads seem to strip out of at least 40% of them.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stripped screws... |
Matt, I agree with that. I took one of those 'acid-flux' applying
brushes and cut the hairs half way back to the nub off. keep it with the
boelube to apply it, sparsely.
Barry Pote RV9a Fuslege
Matthew Gelber wrote:
>
>
> I had this problem and started using Boelube, a wax lubricant that looks
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Setting fo Engine Monitor was: Oil Temps |
Paul are you getting any readings other than 19C from the carb air temp.
Or should we call it carb body temp.
Garry
Paul Besing wrote:
>
> Here is what I compiled from another lister in the
> past, and recent data.
>
> Oil Pressure: 25PSI
> Fuel Pressure: 1PSI
> CHT: 65min 220Max (Centigrade)
> EGT? (Someone want to chime in here?)
> Oil Temp: 75min 150 Max (Centigrade)
> Carb Temp: 5 (Centigrade)
> Ammeter 2 Amps
>
> ====
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A 197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> First Flight 7/22/01
>
> http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Setting fo Engine Monitor was: Oil Temps |
No, I just get 19C on the carb temp, but I talked to
Ron at Rocky mountain about this yesterday and he said
that all RV's cowls keep things pretty warm, and the
reason for the 19C temp, is that is the highest the
uMonitor will go. He said if it truly drops below 19,
then you will see a drop.
--- Garry LeGare wrote:
> <"versadek"@earthlink.net>
>
> Paul are you getting any readings other than 19C
> from the carb air temp.
> Or should we call it carb body temp.
> Garry
>
> Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> >
> > Here is what I compiled from another lister in the
> > past, and recent data.
> >
> > Oil Pressure: 25PSI
> > Fuel Pressure: 1PSI
> > CHT: 65min 220Max (Centigrade)
> > EGT? (Someone want to chime in here?)
> > Oil Temp: 75min 150 Max (Centigrade)
> > Carb Temp: 5 (Centigrade)
> > Ammeter 2 Amps
> >
> > ====
> > Paul Besing
> > RV-6A 197AB Arizona
> > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> > First Flight 7/22/01
> >
> > http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stripped screws... |
Ken,
I had a similar problem until I picked up some #2 screwdriver bits from
Sears. The Sears bits fit the screw perfectly, while the cheapo ones I was
using before had a little room to move.
Kelly
fuselage -8QB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Balch" <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 4:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: Stripped screws...
>
> OK, am I crazy here, or are the AN515-8R8 screws that we all received
> with our kits next to worthless? No matter how carefully I turn them,
> the phillips heads seem to strip out of at least 40% of them.
>
> Has anyone else had this trouble? Is there an equivalent screw (pan
> head, 8-32, 1/2") in stainless? What AN or MS number? I checked my
> Spruce catalog and was unable to locate an exact replacement. Any
> ideas?
>
> --
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
> mounting wings
> groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Weight and Balance data |
Scott,
It has been some time since I did mine... we weighed her on a set of old
aircraft scales (read that "vacuum tube type"); with three different pads
connected to one center, digital (also "tubes") numbered scale. My local
AP&IA friend still has the equipment, and I'm sure I still have all the data
stuff somewhere. I know I have my weights & balance sheet in the plane (per
regs.) but I usually just brain it out. I weight 150 dripping wet, 165 with
chute & toys, my max pax weight is 200 lbs (no baggage & lite fuel on
board). Our back seats are small and I won't fly anyone who does not fit
in there comfortably (their comfort & mine). That pretty much limits them
to 180 lbs, due to size & width dimensions of my back seat. I suppose you
could "put" someone back there over 200 lbs, but they would have to be
short, fat, and have slender legs (but their gut might restrict the stick
movement or their wide hips might interfere with the flaps actuators). Let
me know, contact me off list if you want me to dig up my stuff or arrange to
use the a/c scales.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Van Artsdalen, Scott <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 11:51 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Weight and Balance data
>
> Does anyone have their actual RV-4 weight and balance data. I'd like to
> take a look and start getting familiar with what kind of CG loadings I can
> expect. Being an RV-4 I now there are friends that I'm going to politely
> tell they won't be able to go for a ride for their own safety. I'd like
to
> run some numbers though, knowing full well that my mileage may vary.
Prefer
> numbers from RV-4 with O-320 with wood prop. But I'll take what I can
get.
>
> Thanks!
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | efortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stripped screws... |
You must have a good screwdriver, One that is worn out will booger up the
screws.
Ken Balch wrote:
>
> OK, am I crazy here, or are the AN515-8R8 screws that we all received
> with our kits next to worthless? No matter how carefully I turn them,
> the phillips heads seem to strip out of at least 40% of them.
>
> Has anyone else had this trouble? Is there an equivalent screw (pan
> head, 8-32, 1/2") in stainless? What AN or MS number? I checked my
> Spruce catalog and was unable to locate an exact replacement. Any
> ideas?
>
> --
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
> mounting wings
> groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Right Rudder Tension |
Wow, this is really puzzling, and also very scary. Has it been like this
from the first flight, or did something change? Was this in cruise or
climb? I run about .5-.75 ball out on climb and dead center in cruise. (I
offset my VS by .25", and I don't know if that helped or if all of my errors
in the airframe just cancelled each other out) If you're 1.5 out in climb I
consider that a lot, depending on your power, but if it's in cruise there is
a *real* problem. I would definitely re-check your wing/HS/VS measurements.
Do both wings have the same angle of attack? Is there any fore/aft sweep?
Looking from the rear, does the HS line up properly with the wing? Are the
elevators at the same AOA? Is the VS dead straight?
Regardless of that, you should be able to pull out 1.5 balls with the
rudder. You should be able to PEG the ball on either end of the tube. I
think something is really wrong somewhere.
Good luck,
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> When flying today I was not coordinated. About 1 1/2
> balls off. I tried right rudder, and for the life of
> me could not push hard enough to keep it from yawing
> left. I suspected I had a cable hung up on something,
> but that was not the case. I got back to the hanger
> and had a friend push against me while I pushed the
> rudder pedals. He did not have to push hardly at all
> to provide enough force for me not to be able to push
> the pedal. I'm thoroughly confused. Any ideas?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin vs. UPS/Appollo |
>
> Before you spring for any UPS GPS stuff, you might want to check to make
> sure it will be WAAS upgradeable. Last time I checked (2 months ago) it
> wasn't. I got the impression they were coming out with a new GPS in the
> next year or so.
>
I have a hand held GPS that is WAAS capable. It is difficult for me to
imagine any aviation use, other than future precision approaches where such
capabilities would be of any use at all or even detectible at all. Future
precision approach equipment would, of course, be entirely different than
any equipment available in the near future.
If I am overlooking anything, someone please let me know. As for me, this
capability would be at the dead bottom of my list.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 N154PK Flies! |
Pat,
CONGRATULATIONS WELL DONE !!
Chuck Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Finishing up)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary & Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Weight and Balance data |
We weighed a 4 a couple of weeks back, injected O-360 swinging a Sensenich FP
prop. Came in heavy at 255 right wheel, 252 left wheel and 40 tail wheel. for a
total of 1047 lb. This is one real nice looking for with lots of bells and
whistles
Chuck Rabaut wrote:
>
> Scott,
>
> It has been some time since I did mine... we weighed her on a set of old
> aircraft scales (read that "vacuum tube type"); with three different pads
> connected to one center, digital (also "tubes") numbered scale. My local
> AP&IA friend still has the equipment, and I'm sure I still have all the data
> stuff somewhere. I know I have my weights & balance sheet in the plane (per
> regs.) but I usually just brain it out. I weight 150 dripping wet, 165 with
> chute & toys, my max pax weight is 200 lbs (no baggage & lite fuel on
> board). Our back seats are small and I won't fly anyone who does not fit
> in there comfortably (their comfort & mine). That pretty much limits them
> to 180 lbs, due to size & width dimensions of my back seat. I suppose you
> could "put" someone back there over 200 lbs, but they would have to be
> short, fat, and have slender legs (but their gut might restrict the stick
> movement or their wide hips might interfere with the flaps actuators). Let
> me know, contact me off list if you want me to dig up my stuff or arrange to
> use the a/c scales.
>
> Chuck
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Van Artsdalen, Scott <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 11:51 AM
> Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Weight and Balance data
>
>
> >
> > Does anyone have their actual RV-4 weight and balance data. I'd like to
> > take a look and start getting familiar with what kind of CG loadings I can
> > expect. Being an RV-4 I now there are friends that I'm going to politely
> > tell they won't be able to go for a ride for their own safety. I'd like
> to
> > run some numbers though, knowing full well that my mileage may vary.
> Prefer
> > numbers from RV-4 with O-320 with wood prop. But I'll take what I can
> get.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > --
> > Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> > Network Administrator
> > Union Safe Deposit Bank
> > 209-946-5116
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Wannabe Goes For His First Flight |
Another addict hooked. Now Brian...don't go falling off the wagon and build
one of those easy to assemble numbers 6 or higher. Stick with your gut
feeling......build a FOUR...like real men.
Bill
-4 wings
>
> Wow!!!!!
>
> On Tuesday 16 July 2001 Mike Toews was kind enough to take me for
a
> ride in his RV-4 C-GFEW. I was simply amazed. The performance and speed
> of this aircraft is incredible!
>
> As I strapped myself in, we did some quick weight calculations and
> determined that we were a few pounds over the aerobatic gross. No
> serious aerobatics. No problem said I, the gross weight is there for a
> reason.
>
> So we powered up and took off. Now, having flown in 182s, 206s,
> Caravans, Twatters and Porters when skydiving, it blew me away to see
> this aircraft get off the ground in less than 500 feet. I gazed out the
> canopy and saw planet Earth open up before me. Wow! Those of you who who
> are flying these RVs have way too much fun. (I gotta make myself one of
> these!).
>
> Once we got to cruising altitude, Mike asked me how much stick
time I
> had. "Well, several hours on Microsoft Flight Simulator and about ten
> minutes in a Katana." So he had me place my hand on the stick as he
> demonstrated the responsiveness of the controls. Wow! Amazing! So Mike
> gave me control. Wow, you just think about where you want to go and
> you're going there! If I took the amount of control input I would give a
> Katana to make a gentle bank and applied that to Mike's RV-4, we would
> be in a very steep bank.
>
> So, after we burned off some fuel we did a gentle loop and a roll.
> While briefly inverted in the loop I recalled the scene from Top Gun
> where Tom Cruise is flying over the Soviet MIG, er, T-38 and
> not-so-politely gestures him to leave his airspace. Just prior to the
> roll, Mike told me if I closed my yes it would feel like we didn't move
> at all. "Are you kidding? I want to see this!" WooHoo!!! Fun, fun, fun.
>
> OK, let's figure this out: Get private pilot license, buy house
with
> nice garage, order empennage kit... Spouse wants to know when I'm going
> to build an RV so she can go for more rides. Oh yeah, spouse reminds me
> to get some juicy long-term contracts. Funny how money always enters the
> equation :).
>
> So we made our way back home to the Steinbach North airport (I'm
sure
> glad Mike was navigating). What seemed like a ten minute flight was
> actually half an hour. Thank you Mike for the incredible ride. (Let me
> know when you have a light fuel load and don't mind taking a passenger
> up for some more aerobatics.)
>
> Blue Skies!
>
> Brian Schalme
> RV-8 Dreaming and goal setting
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
Hi Paul:
When I installed my 0360 in the 6 I wanted to achieve the maximum amount of
oil cooling that I could get to be able to handle the extra cooling that
would be required if I ever put it on floats. In researching the numbers as
published by Lycoming the recommended continuous running temperature is 180
with a max of 245. At temperatures below 30 degrees 170 and a min of 160 for
continuous operation. As has been mentioned 245 would be an absolute max for
a short period with 220 being a max for continuous running.
As I understand it the way the system works the oil temp is controlled by
the vernatherm valve which is set at approx 180 degrees. If you are using a
spin- on filter the vernatherm is located in the body of the filter
adapter.The vernatherm is a unit that is about an inch in diameter and about
three inches long with a beveled end on it and wrapped with what looks like
a spring. As this spring heats up it gets longer and forces the beveled end
into a opening closing of the flow of oil through this opening which
reroutes the oil through the cooler.
When you first start the engine this spring is fully retracted and the oil
takes the route of least resistance with most of it bypassing the cooler and
returning to the engine. As the oil temp warms the vernatherm starts to
expand and starts putting more oil through the cooler. It works the same way
as a thermostat in your car except in your car on start up the thermostat is
closed.
The challenge for us builders is to make sure that we can provide enough
cooling capacity so that the vernatherm can maintain the temp at it's
setting which I have found can vary between 180 and 190 degrees. I elected
to go for the nine row Stewart Warner cooler mounted flat directly behind
and nearly flush with the left hand cowl air intake. The reason I selected
this location was I wanted pressured air to go directly through the cooler
so that I wouldn' t have any loss of efficiency putting the air through any
ducting. Putting it on the back baffle was another option but wasn't sure
how this would affect the cooling of that rear cylinder and things get
pretty busy as it is behind the rear baffles.
The end result it has achieved my goal, I can get the temp up to 200 in a
climb on a hot day but will go right back to 185 on reaching cooler air or
as soon as I reduce to cruise power. It also did the job on floats even with
the reduced airspeeds and higher power settings.
I never let the oil temperature drop below 180 in cruise, as we go into
winter temps I blank of half of the cooler. I seems that you need 180 to get
rid of the moisture in the oil.
For what it is worth sometimes on high time engines the seat that the
vernathern valve closes on gets worn to the point that all of the oil is not
being put through the cooler and this can cause higher oil temps.
Regards
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 12:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: Oil Temps
>
> Any guidlines out there on what the min/max oil temps
> should be for an O-360? I am running about 195
> currently.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A 197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
>
> http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stripped screws... |
Hi Ken,
Using the right type of Philips Screw driver even when brand new there seems
to be a tendency for these beggars to get little sharp edges in the edges of
the Philips type socket. This commonly leads to the head stripping out.
The use of the correct Philips screw driver (There are a number of different
designs) coupled with the use of Beolube on the threads has cut the loss of
screws down to almost nil for me.
If you suspect your screw driver might be part of the problem, If you have
one near you, take a screw of the type in question to your nearest fastener
supply co. or hardware and try out some of the different types. The right
choice will be instantly evident.
Beolube is sold by Avery Tools.
Jim in Kelowna - front baffles fitted
---- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Balch" <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 2:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: Stripped screws...
>
> OK, am I crazy here, or are the AN515-8R8 screws that we all received
> with our kits next to worthless? No matter how carefully I turn them,
> the phillips heads seem to strip out of at least 40% of them.
>
> Has anyone else had this trouble? Is there an equivalent screw (pan
> head, 8-32, 1/2") in stainless? What AN or MS number? I checked my
> Spruce catalog and was unable to locate an exact replacement. Any
> ideas?
>
> --
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
> mounting wings
> groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel Estrada F." <dani_estrada(at)infosel.net.mx> |
| Subject: | Ride in an RV6A..or 7A |
Hey George..!!!
Very glad to "read" you...for sure Ill be looking for you...
Daniel Estrada
> -----Mensaje original-----
> De: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]En nombre de Meketa
> Enviado el: Viernes, 20 de Julio de 2001 10:45 p.m.
> Para: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Asunto: Re: RV-List: Ride in an RV6A..or 7A
>
>
> Daniel
>
> You should have no problem getting a ride. Go to Van's tent first thing
> uppon arrival and get on the list. I believe they only sign up
> one day at a
> time. Get there first thing in the morning, if possible.
>
> I am leaving for OSH first thing tomorrow morning. I am flying
> the Cessna140
> up there. The RV8 is still not done, but getting very close. Look for me
> wearing the camoflaged
> hat in the RV area. I will likely be looking over the planes at least a
> couple of times a day.
>
> George Meketa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Pacific Aero Harness |
Listers:
How/where did you install the anchor point for the crotch strap on the five
point Pacific Aero Harness? I am considering putting one in my Rv6A. Pacific
AH said that Van has never given a method/point for attaching it...I know
there a lot of them in use. What did you do?
John, Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV Wannabe Goes For His First Flight |
I'll show you guys, I think I will build an RV-2 next...
Kevin =9A
In a message dated 7/25/01 7:41:23 PM, billshook(at)earthlink.net writes:
>Another addict hooked. Now Brian...don't go falling off the wagon and
>build
>one of those easy to assemble numbers 6 or higher. Stick with your gut
>feeling......build a FOUR...like real men.
>
>Bill
>-4 wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jayeandscott" <jayeandscott(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stripped screws... |
Don't want to start some xenophobia here but the Phillips head is a really
poor design and the Robertson is much superior,( IMHO) but, for whatever
reason, it's virtually invisible south of the 49th parallel.
Having got that off my chest, I still had to contend with what the aircraft
industry uses. I agree with a high-quality screwdriver bit with sharp edges
and no slop-some even have sharp ridges running horizontally-but what really
made the difference in not slipping was a tiny tube of a compound called
ScrewGrab which gets daubed on the screwdriver tip or a drop on the screw
head slots. It looks and feels like valve-grinding compound and works like a
damn!You can actually feel it grabbing. The only downside is it leaves a
minute amount of residue deep in the screwhead slots that's hard to get out
for painting or whatever.I think Light Plane Maintenance did an article on
removing screws awhile back...
Scott Jackson,
RV-6
wing root fairings
----- Original Message -----
From: barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 3:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stripped screws...
>
> Matt, I agree with that. I took one of those 'acid-flux' applying
> brushes and cut the hairs half way back to the nub off. keep it with the
> boelube to apply it, sparsely.
> Barry Pote RV9a Fuslege
>
> Matthew Gelber wrote:
> >
> >
> > I had this problem and started using Boelube, a wax lubricant that looks
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Hughes" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Wannabe Goes For His First Flight |
Oh no. Here we go again.
Cleco? Care to respond?
Keith
Canopy
Denver
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Shook <billshook(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 8:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Wannabe Goes For His First Flight
>
> Another addict hooked. Now Brian...don't go falling off the wagon and
build
> one of those easy to assemble numbers 6 or higher. Stick with your gut
> feeling......build a FOUR...like real men.
>
> Bill
> -4 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moshe Lichtman" <moshe_lichtman(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pacific Aero Harness |
the anchor point goes behind the control sticks of the pilot and passenger.
PAH should have provided you a set of drawings of the various doublers and
parts that need to be fab'ed for the 6/6A. i followed their directions and
it's worked fine. i will send you some photos off the list
moshe
rv6a flying, rv6 almost finished
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 8:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: Pacific Aero Harness
>
> Listers:
> How/where did you install the anchor point for the crotch strap on the
five
> point Pacific Aero Harness? I am considering putting one in my Rv6A.
Pacific
> AH said that Van has never given a method/point for attaching it...I know
> there a lot of them in use. What did you do?
>
> John, Salida, CO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Carb Vent Fitting |
List:
I am installing the fuel & primer system on my RV6-A-QB with the
0-360-A1A and have a few questions:
1) Does the carb vent outlet take a special fitting as do the fuel
inlet & outlet line connections?
2) How are people running the fuel vent line? Along the engine
mount or just a dump tube Allah the Vacuum Pump?
Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nancy Jean Burkholder" <nancyb(at)mninter.net> |
| Subject: | high oil temps on hot days |
Has anyone added an aluminum louver to the underside of the cowl, as
done by Don Christiansen, and described in the 4th 1999 issue of The
RVator? I have oil temps that get towards the top of the green arc on
+90F days. This is an IO-360-A1A in an RV-6. I'm considering this for
my RV and would like to hear how well it worked.
OBTW, I bought Terry Jantzi's RV in early June, and started transition
training last week. Woowee!
nancy b. "Good people are always so sure they're right."
Barbara Graham's last words
Executed June 5, 1955 at San Quentin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airbatix(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Right Rudder Tension |
and dont forget to check three "non rudder" things:
1. ensure that your turn coord/turn and bank is really centered on your
instrument panel...it doesnt take much of an installation error to cause the
ball to be in error
2. if you dont have wheel pants and your nose gear is tight, it might not be
centering aftering take off... that can produce significant yaw forces (and
cause a landing hazard)
3. ensure your flaps are retracted evenly and recheck wing incidence angle
paul montgomery
rv6a/180/cs
50 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airbatix(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: high oil temps on hot days |
kinda...
i cut two enlarged, oblong cutouts( about 3x4 inches) out of the bottom of my
rv6a cowl where the exhaust pipes exit in order to let more air out. i have
a 0360 with constant speed and now have virtually no cht overheating probs,
even on hot days...the cutouts are out of sight and very simple...my oil
cooler is on the firewall and i feed it with a 3" scat from the left back of
my baffles...operate at 190-210
paul montgomery
rv6a/180/cs
50 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi,
Thanks for the education Wheeler. May I further my understanding by asking is a
C/S prop useful if in fact you do have a turbo engine? I am watching the develupment
of the turbo diesel from France with interest. I am hoping some update
announcements come out of Oshkosh this week.
My guess is changing the prop to a hight pitch setting will still help climb performance.
And low pitch still helps cruise along more efficiently. N'est pas?
--
Chuck Packard
GoSU@my-deja.com
--== Sent via Deja.com ==--
http://www.deja.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb Vent Fitting |
--- Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
>
>
> List:
> I am installing the fuel & primer system on my RV6-A-QB with
> the
> 0-360-A1A and have a few questions:
> 1) Does the carb vent outlet take a special fitting as do the
> fuel
> inlet & outlet line connections?
The vent is a standard AN fitting, -4
> 2) How are people running the fuel vent line? Along the
> engine
> mount or just a dump tube Allah the Vacuum Pump?
Eh, just dump it onto your exhaust ala your oil breather.
NO! just kidding... :)
Just run a line to exit the cowl back at the corner.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | Primer Solenoid Orientation |
Did you also confirm that the thing doesn't care about its orientation?
Mike,
I didn't think to ask about the orientation.
Ken Harrill
RV-6
Columbia, SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | Primer Solenoid Orientation |
Ross,
If the valve does not seal completely, the "leakage" could cause two
problems that I can think of: loss of fuel pressure and a small ,continuous
flow of fuel to the primer ports. Both of these results are speculation on
my part. What do you think?
Ken Harrill
RV-6
Columbia, SC
Ken,
I may be missing something here but why is fuel pressure an issue if the
only use of the valve is as a primer? The only function of the solenoid is
to open that pathway to the primer lines from the boost pump for maybe two
seconds. Are you using the valve for another purpose?
Ross
>
> Today I talked with a tech support person with Skinner Valve Division of
> Parker about our solenoid valves. The inlet is marked "2" and the outlet
is
> marked "1" as previously reported. It turns out that this is important.
> The fuel pressure is assisting with the sealing of the valve when "2" is
the
> inlet, not so if "1" is used as the inlet.
>
> Therefore, it is quite possible that if the valve is plumbed wrong we
could
> experience reduced fuel pressure under some conditions. This would most
> likely manifest itself as an increased tendency to vapor lock. (my guess,
> not that of the tech rep.)
>
> I will be replumbing mine. I hope this helps!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jessen <jjessen(at)cmbinfo.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin vs. UPS/Appollo |
I've used both Garmin and UPS mounted in rentals and liked the interface of
the Garmin better. Both are very capable brands, but the Garmin is much
easier to program quickly. I think that I'd take the time to examine the
user interfaces and go from there.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Pardue [mailto:n5lp(at)carlsbad.net]
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin vs. UPS/Appollo
>
> Before you spring for any UPS GPS stuff, you might want to check to make
> sure it will be WAAS upgradeable. Last time I checked (2 months ago) it
> wasn't. I got the impression they were coming out with a new GPS in the
> next year or so.
>
I have a hand held GPS that is WAAS capable. It is difficult for me to
imagine any aviation use, other than future precision approaches where such
capabilities would be of any use at all or even detectible at all. Future
precision approach equipment would, of course, be entirely different than
any equipment available in the near future.
If I am overlooking anything, someone please let me know. As for me, this
capability would be at the dead bottom of my list.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Pacific Aero Harness |
John,
There is no "right" way to put the anchor in for the 5th point of a harness,
but there are some wrong ways to do it (not enough reinforcing). Primarily,
there are some important points to tend to. I'll tell you what I did.
The principle design that I used is an aluminum tube (approx 3/4" OD)
suspended between two seat ribs, just behind the hole where the stick comes
through the flooring. Obviously, once you have this anchor point, you can
wrap the belt around it, or attach a metal strap around it which in turn
bolts to the seat belt strap (which I did) (I also have a brand new and VERY
nice set of Pacific Aero Harness belts). The challenge, however, is to get
this aluminum tube suspended in such a manner that it is secure, doesn't
interfere with the control sticks, and attached in way that when under
significant force it will not rip out the ribs and floor.
To do this, I bought a chunk of the 1/2 inch thick UHM (?) plastic from ACS.
Its the hard plastic stuff that we use here and there in this kit. I cut
this into two, 2" x 2" blocks into which I drilled a 3/4" hole right through
the center. Now it is these two plastic blocks which are bolted to the two
seat ribs (2 #3AN bolts each at opposite corners), with the 3/4" aluminum
rod stuck in the holes, and thus suspended between the two ribs. There is
another #3AN bolt which runs through the 1/2 inch plastic, through the
aluminum rod, and then out through the bottom of the plastic, thus keeping
the rod inside of the plastic if the airframe gets twisted rapidly (when I
want these things to work!). Trust me, this part is very easy. Nobody can
see it, so if your 2" squares are not perfectly square, no big deal.
The hardest part of all of this is yet to come. The ribs to which our
plastic squares are attached must be reinforced significantly, or during any
real force, the two bolts we have holding the plastic squares to the ribs
will just rip out. I used some .063 aluminum sheet, and cut it in the shape
of the rib (more or less), and then riveted it onto both ribs as doublers.
The key, of course, is to make the doublers go back and down far enough to
incorporate a significant portion of the rib so as to distribute the forces
through lots of aluminum, and down into the bottom skins (and to a lesser
degree, to the seat flooring).
Remember, the principle forces of the belts will be taken by the lap belts
and to a lesser but still very significant degree by the shoulder belts. The
purpose of the crotch belt is to prevent "submarine-ing", which requires
less strength than the aforementioned belts. During the design phase, I
kept wanting to put the attachment on the main spar somehow, but I kept
realizing that the vectors would not put this type of attachment under
tension should I crash...unless I was flying backwards. I don't think I am
the one who invented this set up as I have seen versions of it before, but
this is not that hard and takes only about 3-4 hours total time once you
have the parts.
Jim
Tampa
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>..
Listers:
How/where did you install the anchor point for the crotch strap on the five
point Pacific Aero Harness? I am considering putting one in my Rv6A. Pacific
AH said that Van has never given a method/point for attaching it...I know
there a lot of them in use. What did you do?
John, Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin vs. UPS/Appollo |
Hi Ross,
I have the same stack installed in my 6. I have decided it was the best
bang for the buck. I can't say weather Garmin has better bells and
whistles, but I am completely happy with my choice although ... I am not
flying yet.
It is my understanding the UPS equipment is designed to be completely
upgradeable.
RV6 Slider (N616TB Reserved) Finish kit
Tim Bryan
tim(at)bryantechnology.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 1:19 PM
Subject: RV-List: Garmin vs. UPS/Appollo
>
> I am planning an IFR stack in my RV-6A.
>
> I have been leaning towards the following UPS products
>
> > GX-60
> > MX-20
> > SL-15
> > SL-30
> > SL-70
>
> Are there any Garmin fans out there that would recommend a stack with
> similar features they believe is better.
>
> (I hope this doesn't start another tail dragger vs. nose wheel fight!!!!)
>
> Ross Mickey
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
Listers,
If you would like to see photos of Eustace's oil cooler installation, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SEFlaRVbuilders/files/Engine%20Photos%20%26%20drawings/
Click on the link marked RV 6 OIL COOLER PHOTOS
Charlie Kuss
> Hi Paul:
>
> When I installed my 0360 in the 6 I wanted to achieve the maximum amount of
> oil cooling that I could get to be able to handle the extra cooling that
> would be required if I ever put it on floats.
snipped
> I elected
> to go for the nine row Stewart Warner cooler mounted flat directly behind
> and nearly flush with the left hand cowl air intake. The reason I selected
> this location was I wanted pressured air to go directly through the cooler
> so that I wouldn' t have any loss of efficiency putting the air through any
> ducting. Putting it on the back baffle was another option but wasn't sure
> how this would affect the cooling of that rear cylinder and things get
> pretty busy as it is behind the rear baffles.
>
> The end result it has achieved my goal, I can get the temp up to 200 in a
> climb on a hot day but will go right back to 185 on reaching cooler air or
> as soon as I reduce to cruise power. It also did the job on floats even with
> the reduced airspeeds and higher power settings.
> Regards
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | F1 rocket kit for sale |
Due to a debt i was owed that will never be repaid due to a bankrupcy I have
to sell my F1 rocket kit.
My kit includes
RV 8 tail completed
F1 wings completed
F1 finish kit
F1 fuselage 65-70% complete
Vetterman 3-1 exhust
elt, throttle, aeroflash strobes, heated static pitot tube and mount
alternaor team rocket sells for the IO-540 engine.
no tools are included as I plan to buy a new kit next fall and start over.
THis kis is high quality as 90% of the work on it was done by team rocket as
it was to be there demo aircraft.
please contact me if your interested
chris wilcox
oshkosh , wi
(920) 235-1082 business
(920) 858-7561 cell
cw9371(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | LOM M332B (and C) |
rv3-list(at)matronics.com
Hi All,
In order to answer some recent statements about the LOM engine, I spent some
time talking to the local LOM dealer, Joe Krybus, who had just returned from
the Czech Republic.
A LightSpeed Electronic Ignition was tried on a LOM M332A at the factory.
The report back was that there was no improvement in engine performance. The
electronic ignition unit is being returned to the USA for review and
analysis. The timing sensors used on this unit were modified by a third
party to mount to the existing LOM magneto mounting location.
I remembered incorrectly. The LOM M332B does NOT have the automatic altitude
compensating mixture control. However, the "C" model does have this
automatic mixture control.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV LOM M332A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stripped screws... |
Hi Ken:
The solution for me was investing in a Snap-on ratchet type driver part
#SSDMR4B, it is reversing and magnetic and mine came with six different
bits, 3 sizes of Robertson (square), 2 sizes of straight, and 1 Phillips
part number SDM222R 2 it has shallow dedents on the blades of the bit. Never
had any trouble since, in fact the bit is so secure in the head that the
screw will fail before the bit will slip in the head..
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Balch" <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 2:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: Stripped screws...
>
> OK, am I crazy here, or are the AN515-8R8 screws that we all received
> with our kits next to worthless? No matter how carefully I turn them,
> the phillips heads seem to strip out of at least 40% of them.
>
> Has anyone else had this trouble? Is there an equivalent screw (pan
> head, 8-32, 1/2") in stainless? What AN or MS number? I checked my
> Spruce catalog and was unable to locate an exact replacement. Any
> ideas?
>
> --
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
> mounting wings
> groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Weight and Balance data |
Scott,
I attached two spreadsheets for my RV-4 N154PK. It has all the light stuff
- wood prop, auto starter, auto alternator, very light panel (nothing but a
com radio and req'd inst), and no lights. Just like Van meant it to be!
It weighed in at 920 dry. When you get your dry weight and CG you should be
able to adjust the spread sheets to match your plane.
File "CG Calculator N154PK.XLS" is formatted to also work with a PDA running
pocket excel. Punch in the weights and it gives a "go" - "no go" for non
acro flight. Keep in mind to always check your destination CG after the
flight. RV 4s shift back as fuel is burned!
File "Weight and Balance For N154PK.xls" is the calc for the plane and
includes a chart showing the CG shift as passenger weight is increased.
This chart does not include any baggage weight. There is a sample calc on
the data sheet for the plane with a weight ring added to the fly wheel. I
did a test calc to see if the wheel would help much.
Use and distribute the sheets at your own risk, I checked nothing and I
guarantee they are incorrect!
When is the first flight?
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
>From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Weight and Balance data
>Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 09:51:31 -0700
>
>
>
>Does anyone have their actual RV-4 weight and balance data. I'd like to
>take a look and start getting familiar with what kind of CG loadings I can
>expect. Being an RV-4 I now there are friends that I'm going to politely
>tell they won't be able to go for a ride for their own safety. I'd like to
>run some numbers though, knowing full well that my mileage may vary.
>Prefer
>numbers from RV-4 with O-320 with wood prop. But I'll take what I can get.
>
>Thanks!
>
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
>Network Administrator
>Union Safe Deposit Bank
>209-946-5116
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SSPRING83(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 36 Msgs - 07/24/01 |
Have a 12 lb. flywheel weight in as new condition by Mark Landoll That I'll
let go for 50.00$ plus shipping if anyone needs one. It fits an 0320, don't
know if it'll fit a 0360 or not, anyone know? Please contact me offline at
sspring83(at)aol.com or 860-526-9322
George Spring
RV-4 4375J
3B9, Chester, Conn.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | RV Wannabe Goes For His First Flight |
Amen, Brother Bill!
Taking mine out to the airport tonight! She's finally leaving the garage!!
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Shook [mailto:billshook(at)earthlink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 7:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Wannabe Goes For His First Flight
Another addict hooked. Now Brian...don't go falling off the wagon and build
one of those easy to assemble numbers 6 or higher. Stick with your gut
feeling......build a FOUR...like real men.
Bill
-4 wings
>
> Wow!!!!!
>
> On Tuesday 16 July 2001 Mike Toews was kind enough to take me for
a
> ride in his RV-4 C-GFEW. I was simply amazed. The performance and speed
> of this aircraft is incredible!
>
> As I strapped myself in, we did some quick weight calculations and
> determined that we were a few pounds over the aerobatic gross. No
> serious aerobatics. No problem said I, the gross weight is there for a
> reason.
>
> So we powered up and took off. Now, having flown in 182s, 206s,
> Caravans, Twatters and Porters when skydiving, it blew me away to see
> this aircraft get off the ground in less than 500 feet. I gazed out the
> canopy and saw planet Earth open up before me. Wow! Those of you who who
> are flying these RVs have way too much fun. (I gotta make myself one of
> these!).
>
> Once we got to cruising altitude, Mike asked me how much stick
time I
> had. "Well, several hours on Microsoft Flight Simulator and about ten
> minutes in a Katana." So he had me place my hand on the stick as he
> demonstrated the responsiveness of the controls. Wow! Amazing! So Mike
> gave me control. Wow, you just think about where you want to go and
> you're going there! If I took the amount of control input I would give a
> Katana to make a gentle bank and applied that to Mike's RV-4, we would
> be in a very steep bank.
>
> So, after we burned off some fuel we did a gentle loop and a roll.
> While briefly inverted in the loop I recalled the scene from Top Gun
> where Tom Cruise is flying over the Soviet MIG, er, T-38 and
> not-so-politely gestures him to leave his airspace. Just prior to the
> roll, Mike told me if I closed my yes it would feel like we didn't move
> at all. "Are you kidding? I want to see this!" WooHoo!!! Fun, fun, fun.
>
> OK, let's figure this out: Get private pilot license, buy house
with
> nice garage, order empennage kit... Spouse wants to know when I'm going
> to build an RV so she can go for more rides. Oh yeah, spouse reminds me
> to get some juicy long-term contracts. Funny how money always enters the
> equation :).
>
> So we made our way back home to the Steinbach North airport (I'm
sure
> glad Mike was navigating). What seemed like a ten minute flight was
> actually half an hour. Thank you Mike for the incredible ride. (Let me
> know when you have a light fuel load and don't mind taking a passenger
> up for some more aerobatics.)
>
> Blue Skies!
>
> Brian Schalme
> RV-8 Dreaming and goal setting
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer Solenoid Orientation |
> Ross,
>
> If the valve does not seal completely, the "leakage" could cause two
> problems that I can think of: loss of fuel pressure and a small
,continuous
> flow of fuel to the primer ports. Both of these results are speculation
on
> my part. What do you think?
Are you saying that the side pressure placed on the closed value somehow
helps to seal the valve or that fuel can seep around the closed valve and is
sealed in only one direction?
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6A Exit air enhancements was:: high oil temps on hot days |
> Has anyone added an aluminum louver to the underside of the cowl, as
> done by Don Christiansen, and described in the 4th 1999 issue of The
> RVator? I have oil temps that get towards the top of the green arc on
> +90F days. This is an IO-360-A1A in an RV-6. I'm considering this for
> my RV and would like to hear how well it worked.
I have not done this but have done a number of things to help cooling air
exit the cowl more efficiently in my 6A.
1) Installed half rounds of aluminum sheet around the engine mount along
the bottom. These look similar to what is stock on the RV-8.
2) Did NOT install Van's system for attaching the cowl cutout behind the
gear leg. Instead, I am screwing a fiberglass doubler over this area that
has a filler fiberglassed in it to fill the gap in the cowl. This basically
makes the cowl solid again (like the -6) and cleans out all the mess of
Van's hanger system.
3) Made a gear leg fairing that fits the upper part of the gear leg that
is inside the cowl. This ties into the firewall. I also filled the cup
that is formed by the intersection of the gear leg and engine mount with
fiberglass resin and microballons. The fairing rests in indents in the
microballons. This fairing hides the bolt that holds the gear leg on so it
is removable via a hinge pin.
4) I also made mini fairing to go over the lower engine mount tubes.
This whole effort is to help the cowl air exit more efficiently.
Ross Mickey
6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Marking Wiring |
I wrote an article for the RVator and shared tips on how to create the
labels Paul referenced below. These tips are very detailed and make
constructing these labels very easy. This article was in the "First Issue
2001" of the RVator on page 8.
Ken Scott did not include a picture which would have made the text more
understandable.
If anyone has some questions or would like this picture, please do not
hesitate to send me an email.
Of course, if you would like some info regarding the WigWag Solid State
Controller, we will send that to you too or see the web page.
Bob
RV6A almost.
http://easystreet.com/~bhaan/
>
>I didn't do this, but wish I had. You can buy clear
>shrink tube. Make some labels of wires on a laser
>printer, cut and put the clear shrink tube over the
>wire. They look really nice, and you don't have to
>worry about them coming off.
>====
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A 197AB Arizona
>http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Bob Haan
14270 S W Koven Ct
Tigard, OR 97224
Email: bhaan(at)easystreet.com
Home: 503 579-2729
Mobile: 503 720-1132
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Wannabe Goes For His First Flight |
Congrats Scott.....sure wish I was taking mine out.... :-(
Bill
-4 wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2001 1:00 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV Wannabe Goes For His First Flight
>
> Amen, Brother Bill!
>
> Taking mine out to the airport tonight! She's finally leaving the
garage!!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill Shook [mailto:billshook(at)earthlink.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 7:38 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Wannabe Goes For His First Flight
>
>
> Another addict hooked. Now Brian...don't go falling off the wagon and
build
> one of those easy to assemble numbers 6 or higher. Stick with your gut
> feeling......build a FOUR...like real men.
>
> Bill
> -4 wings
>
>
> >
> > Wow!!!!!
> >
> > On Tuesday 16 July 2001 Mike Toews was kind enough to take me
for
> a
> > ride in his RV-4 C-GFEW. I was simply amazed. The performance and speed
> > of this aircraft is incredible!
> >
> > As I strapped myself in, we did some quick weight calculations
and
> > determined that we were a few pounds over the aerobatic gross. No
> > serious aerobatics. No problem said I, the gross weight is there for a
> > reason.
> >
> > So we powered up and took off. Now, having flown in 182s, 206s,
> > Caravans, Twatters and Porters when skydiving, it blew me away to see
> > this aircraft get off the ground in less than 500 feet. I gazed out the
> > canopy and saw planet Earth open up before me. Wow! Those of you who who
> > are flying these RVs have way too much fun. (I gotta make myself one of
> > these!).
> >
> > Once we got to cruising altitude, Mike asked me how much stick
> time I
> > had. "Well, several hours on Microsoft Flight Simulator and about ten
> > minutes in a Katana." So he had me place my hand on the stick as he
> > demonstrated the responsiveness of the controls. Wow! Amazing! So Mike
> > gave me control. Wow, you just think about where you want to go and
> > you're going there! If I took the amount of control input I would give a
> > Katana to make a gentle bank and applied that to Mike's RV-4, we would
> > be in a very steep bank.
> >
> > So, after we burned off some fuel we did a gentle loop and a
roll.
> > While briefly inverted in the loop I recalled the scene from Top Gun
> > where Tom Cruise is flying over the Soviet MIG, er, T-38 and
> > not-so-politely gestures him to leave his airspace. Just prior to the
> > roll, Mike told me if I closed my yes it would feel like we didn't move
> > at all. "Are you kidding? I want to see this!" WooHoo!!! Fun, fun, fun.
> >
> > OK, let's figure this out: Get private pilot license, buy house
> with
> > nice garage, order empennage kit... Spouse wants to know when I'm going
> > to build an RV so she can go for more rides. Oh yeah, spouse reminds me
> > to get some juicy long-term contracts. Funny how money always enters the
> > equation :).
> >
> > So we made our way back home to the Steinbach North airport (I'm
> sure
> > glad Mike was navigating). What seemed like a ten minute flight was
> > actually half an hour. Thank you Mike for the incredible ride. (Let me
> > know when you have a light fuel load and don't mind taking a passenger
> > up for some more aerobatics.)
> >
> > Blue Skies!
> >
> > Brian Schalme
> > RV-8 Dreaming and goal setting
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: Rocket-List: how to add construction time to project |
----- Original Message -----
From: John Starn <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2001 12:11 PM
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: how to add construction time to project
> --> Rocket-List message posted by: "John Starn"
>
> This is a very long post, but it just may save someone weeks of time &
lots
> of money and a coupla nights sleep.
> All's well that ends well. I'm the "cat" that Tom refered to in the
original
> post. Since this building of an airplane was new to me three years ago I
had
> a lot to learn. Boy !!! have I learned a lot up to and including the
> latest item. The improper plug refered to is on the very front of the
> engine, on the right side of the case in behind the starter ring. It was
not
> only not correct it was wrong in so many ways. It was not the same size, a
> spark plug washer fits perfectly over the threads, as a matter of fact
> whoever (not me, must been some other buddy) had to put on/in had to use
two
> spark plug washers to keep it from bottoming out. The correct plug threads
> are too large for a spark plug washer to fit over the threads. The correct
> plug has a smaller head with a build in flange for a fiber gasket and
> drilled to safety wiring. Threads per inch were correct but the plug would
> "wobble" and was put in just a bit tighter than finger tight. With the
> "plug" removed the end of the shaft was now visable in the hole. It
appeared
> to be internally threaded. Since I had not put this section together I had
> no idea what was inside. I put my finger into the hole, down boys, and
when
> I pulled back the shaft came out too. As soon as I saw the key in the
keyway
> I stopped and slowly pushed the shaft back in, but I was now able turn the
> shaft side to side something I was not able to do before. With my super
CFI,
> A&P looking over my shoulder I explained what happened. His little finger
> was too big to fit into the hole in the shaft so I backed it out to show
him
> what I had done. Well this time the key was no longer in the key way. BIG
> problem. Went to the exploded view in the engine parts book to "see" what
> was inside the Lyc. IO540J type engine. Side note: if you don't have a
> "parts" book for your engine GO GET ONE, it's so much better than the
> overhaul manuel (we have one of these too) for seeing what happening and
how
> it happens. Talked to lots of knowable people about what to do next.
Advised
> to remove a cylinder and reach in and re-assemble gears. Checked the
"parts"
> book, bad idea, this area is totally contained and not open to the rest of
> the engine.
> Most said to pull the engine, split the cases etc, etc.. Being hardheaded
> and with the help several friends we were able to pull the prop govener
from
> the side and with use of a "pointer" type magnet about the size of a small
> eraser, a tiny tube flashlight (it's about the same size 1/8" dia. as the
> thing the doctor used to look down my throat, the fiber optic shaft is
about
> 15" long), some very sticky grease, three screwdrivers and a special tool
> made from a hinge pin. We were able to glue the thrust washer to the
gear,
> line up the gears, get them lined up with the shaft holes, fish out the
key
> with the magnet, and two days of try and try again, two nights of little
> sleep we were able re-assemble all the parts in their proper order, lined
up
> and put back together. The gears are about 1 1/2 in dia. and the two holes
> we worked thru are less than a inch wide. PLEASE DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME.
> We hope that those of you have read this far will look at the parts book,
> look at your engine and LEAVE THAT SHAFT ALONE. This is one time that you
> can learn from the mistakes of others. Change the washer if you must,
> tighten it, safety wire it but under no circumstances pull out the shaft,
> you will get SHAFTED if you do. I don't know what engines have this set up
> but it may be on any Lyc. type with a C/S prop. Putting this back together
> properly CAN be done but you will need at least every tool we had. The
tiny
> magnet and super skinny light are an absolute must. But this is the first
> time anyone at APV has seen or heard of this being done. It can be done
but
> PLEASE do yourself a favor DONT TRY THIS AT HOME. I thank God that the
> WRONG plug did leak during run up tests and not at 10,000 feet and 250
> knots, yea the HRII can do that. KABONG
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Tom Gummo <t.gummo(at)verizon.net>
> To: rocket-list ;
> Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 12:53 PM
> Subject: Rocket-List: how to add construction time to project
>
>
> > --> Rocket-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo"
> >
> > On my first attempt to start the engine, we found an oil leak. It was
> > determined that the plug which holds the idler gear for the prop
governor
> > was not correct. So the bad part was removed and the correct part
ordered
> > (be careful with used engines, who knows what parts have been used).
> While
> > I was getting the correct part, my building partner reached in and
removed
> > the shaft (Curiosity killed the cat
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Michael" <jmichael(at)cooperhotels.com> |
I have a tube of BoeLube (sp) but it seems to just flake off when I try to
rub it on a fastener or drillbit, Is the stuff supposed to be that flakey or
did I get a dried out tube?
John Michael
RV-6A uncrated wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Exit air enhancements was:: high oil temps on hot |
days
Hello Ross,
Your ideas sound great.
Do you have pictures and the means to make them available to the list
members?
Jim in Kelowna - Forward baffles mounted
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2001 10:48 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6A Exit air enhancements was:: high oil temps on hot
days
> I have not done this but have done a number of things to help cooling air
> exit the cowl more efficiently in my 6A.
>
> 1) Installed half rounds of aluminum sheet around the engine mount
along
> the bottom. These look similar to what is stock on the RV-8.
>
> 2) Did NOT install Van's system for attaching the cowl cutout behind
the
> gear leg. Instead, I am screwing a fiberglass doubler over this area that
> has a filler fiberglassed in it to fill the gap in the cowl. This
basically
> makes the cowl solid again (like the -6) and cleans out all the mess of
> Van's hanger system.
>
> 3) Made a gear leg fairing that fits the upper part of the gear leg
that
> is inside the cowl. This ties into the firewall. I also filled the cup
> that is formed by the intersection of the gear leg and engine mount with
> fiberglass resin and microballons. The fairing rests in indents in the
> microballons. This fairing hides the bolt that holds the gear leg on so
it
> is removable via a hinge pin.
>
> 4) I also made mini fairing to go over the lower engine mount tubes.
>
> This whole effort is to help the cowl air exit more efficiently.
>
> Ross Mickey
> 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Rivnuts for Canopy.... |
OK...getting to fitting the canopy....and am wondering what seems to be the
most used (best??) method of attaching the plexi to the frame...I have seen
Rivnuts, Pop-Rivets, and tap/die method. From those in the field what seems
to be the best approach to this??
Kurt in OKC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
It is pretty flakey stuff...It doesn't take much to
work..just a little bit on there will lube it quite
well. I got tired of spilling it, stepping on the
tube, etc, so I resorted to air tool oil. One drop on
a drill bit does fine. Boelube gels up and makes a
mess.
====
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 7/22/01
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
John,
We use it for installing screws in nut plates - works well, although it does get
alittle flaky.
Chuck Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (finishing up)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Exit air enhancements was:: high oil temps on hot |
days
Ross, did these mods make a definate difference? Are you flying yet? I am
getting high CHTs on warm day climbouts and think improved airflow might help
this situation
Kevin -9A
> I have not done this but have done a number of things to help cooling air
> exit the cowl more efficiently in my 6A.
>
> 1) Installed half rounds of aluminum sheet around the engine mount along
> the bottom. These look similar to what is stock on the RV-8.
>
> 2) Did NOT install Van's system for attaching the cowl cutout behind the
> gear leg. Instead, I am screwing a fiberglass doubler over this area that
> has a filler fiberglassed in it to fill the gap in the cowl. This
basically
> makes the cowl solid again (like the -6) and cleans out all the mess of
> Van's hanger system.
>
> 3) Made a gear leg fairing that fits the upper part of the gear leg that
> is inside the cowl. This ties into the firewall. I also filled the cup
> that is formed by the intersection of the gear leg and engine mount with
> fiberglass resin and microballons. The fairing rests in indents in the
> microballons. This fairing hides the bolt that holds the gear leg on so it
> is removable via a hinge pin.
>
> 4) I also made mini fairing to go over the lower engine mount tubes.
>
> This whole effort is to help the cowl air exit more efficiently.
>
> Ross Mickey
> 6A
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | Primer Solenoid Orientation |
Ross,
I really don't know much about this. It is my understanding that the valve
is made so that the pressure on the inlet port helps the spring hold the
valve in a closed position. If pressure is applied from the other port, the
spring alone is holding the valve closed. Maybe someone more knowledgeable
on the list could shed some light on this.
Ken Harrill
RV-6
Columbia, SC
> Ross,
>
> If the valve does not seal completely, the "leakage" could cause two
> problems that I can think of: loss of fuel pressure and a small
,continuous
> flow of fuel to the primer ports. Both of these results are speculation
on
> my part. What do you think?
Are you saying that the side pressure placed on the closed value somehow
helps to seal the valve or that fuel can seep around the closed valve and is
sealed in only one direction?
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: B and C alternator |
> Looking at getting the B and C alternator with the LR3B-14 voltage
> regulator and had a few questions for those that have them.
>
> 1. Does the 40 amp alternator fit well under the cowl (I assume its
a
> boss mount for the 0-320-D1A??)
Mine fits fine on the O360-A1A
> 2. Do most folks put the volt reg on the right side (as your sitting
in
> the cockpit) of the firewall since I assume that the alternator is on the
> right side of the engine case?
I put mine on the left side on the rib that runs between the firewall and
the sub-panel.
> 3. Any problems with this system that you have experienced in the
field?
Not flying yet.
> 4. Any special belt needed with this engine/alternator combination?
Not that I know of
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Exit air enhancements was:: high oil temps on hot |
days
> Ross, did these mods make a definate difference? Are you flying yet? I am
> getting high CHTs on warm day climbouts and think improved airflow might
help
> this situation
> Kevin -9A
Sorry, Kevin, but I am not flying yet. In THEORY, they should make a lot of
difference. On the -A versions the cowl exit area is a real mess. All of
these things should help with getting air out of the cowl. Another I am
considering is to shorten the exhaust pipe so it ends just inside the cowl
area. THEORETICALLY, the exhaust gas should help propel the cowl air out.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Exit air enhancements was:: high oil temps on hot |
days
> Hello Ross,
>
> Your ideas sound great.
> Do you have pictures and the means to make them available to the list
> members?
I don't have a digital camera. I will try to scan some of the old fashion
ones I have.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
Can anyone give me some insight to the salvage value of my plane? My initial
reaction was that I didn't want to buy it, that if and when I built again it
would all be fresh. But after my wife suggested "we" build another (God I
love that woman!) and further reflection, it's probably a good idea to get
it since I'll be building sooner rather than later. When I talked to the
adjuster about the salvage he said they normally go for bids and probably
would give me first right of refusal. He asked me what it was worth to me
and if I gave him a number he could cut thru all the gyrations. I put him
off saying I hadn't thought about it that specifically. The big items have
the most uncertainty: bent prop blades, sudden engine stoppage, some or all
of the radios may have been foamed with unknown effect. So what's normal in
these circumstances? I've heard tales of buy backs at 5-10%. It was insured
for $76K so 10% would be $7600. Is that reasonable? What do the salvage guys
normally pay? Any thoughts or first hand experience would be appreciated.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) first flight/destroyed 7/12/2001
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Hello John,
The direct answer to your question is you did not get a "dried out tube"
The tube of Beolube that I am using is now close to five years old. It is
still the same flaky consistency as the day I used it to lube the first
screw that I used to mount servo for elevator trim, its hard to express what
that means to me now. This project is like a big coded diary, each part
reminds me of it's time and place.
I digress, I rub the screws on the Beolube stick so that it imbeds into the
threads. At first this seemed a bit tiresome and after trying the screws
without it and having to replace a small number of platenuts I went back to
the Beolube.
When the screw is put in place the friction melts the Beolube and conditions
the threads so that the two similar materials (steel on steel) do not gall
and tear their threads up. After only one application of Beolube in the
process of fitting various parts repeatedly there has been no problems with
stripped threads occurring. Also there has not been any indication of the
platenuts wearing out or loosing their intended thread locking capability.
I don't use Beolube for drilling, I use a cutting fluid when drilling
through thick material. On thin material with the smaller size drills (30's
and 40's ) I use sharp drills and throw them out when they get dull. All
others get sharpened as needed.
I hope this helps
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Michael" <jmichael(at)cooperhotels.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2001 1:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: Boelube
>
> I have a tube of BoeLube (sp) but it seems to just flake off when I try to
> rub it on a fastener or drillbit, Is the stuff supposed to be that flakey
or
> did I get a dried out tube?
>
> John Michael
> RV-6A uncrated wing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Exit air enhancements was:: high oil temps on hot |
days
Hello Ross,
Have you, or has anyone for that matter given thought to extending the lower
cowl back some small amount to achieve the same effect that you are seeking
without cutting the exhaust pipes.
The idea would be to shape the extension internally so that the exhaust
would act as a pump to assist in driving the cooling out as you describe.
It's a thought that might not be well stated but the idea is there I hope.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2001 2:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6A Exit air enhancements was:: high oil temps on
hot days
>
> > Ross, did these mods make a definate difference? Are you flying yet? I
am
> > getting high CHTs on warm day climbouts and think improved airflow might
> help
> > this situation
> > Kevin -9A
>
>
> Sorry, Kevin, but I am not flying yet. In THEORY, they should make a lot
of
> difference. On the -A versions the cowl exit area is a real mess. All of
> these things should help with getting air out of the cowl. Another I am
> considering is to shorten the exhaust pipe so it ends just inside the cowl
> area. THEORETICALLY, the exhaust gas should help propel the cowl air out.
>
> Ross
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Exit air enhancements was:: high oil temps on hot |
days
> Have you, or has anyone for that matter given thought to extending the
lower
> cowl back some small amount to achieve the same effect that you are
seeking
> without cutting the exhaust pipes.
> The idea would be to shape the extension internally so that the exhaust
> would act as a pump to assist in driving the cooling out as you describe.
> It's a thought that might not be well stated but the idea is there I hope.
>
> Jim in Kelowna
In theory, this should work the same. However, my Vetterman pipes have a
downturn at the ends that would have to be cut off or modified anyway so
they would exit more aft. Since I see no benefit associated with extending
the cowl and it would require more fiberglass work (yuck!) and the pipes
have to be modified anyway, I would go for shortening the pipes into the
existing cowl.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: B and C alternator |
Yikes, I am almost inbarrased to make this post!
I am nearing completion of my fuselage and decided to final fit tail
section. When I get my HS level from side to side, the leading edges of
each side are about a quarter out. If I match those up the level is waaay
out from side to side. Could I have a twist in it? HOW could that happen,
I was sooo carefull
Seems my options are: 1.) drill the skin off and rejig it for new skin,
2.) Level it side to side and pray I don't have a "too much rudder" to keep
straight condition, 3.) ???
Any body know what the tolerance for this would be?
Tim Bryan, CNE (just for scott)
RV-6 Slider (N616TB Reserved) Hurry up on finish kit before engine and panel
to arrive.
tim(at)bryantechnology.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Mine is flaky. Don't despair, it works just great.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
-----Original Message-----
From: John Michael [mailto:jmichael(at)cooperhotels.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2001 4:11 PM
Subject: RV-List: Boelube
I have a tube of BoeLube (sp) but it seems to just flake off when I try to
rub it on a fastener or drillbit, Is the stuff supposed to be that flakey or
did I get a dried out tube?
John Michael
RV-6A uncrated wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stripped screws... |
My Boelube is sort of powdery, more like deodorant and I would not think of
it like Chapstick, "greasy". So is my Boelube no good?
Marty in Brentwood TN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew Gelber" <mgelber(at)pacbell.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 4:57 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Stripped screws...
>
> I had this problem and started using Boelube, a wax lubricant that looks
> like a big chapstick, on the screw threads before using. Since then, no
> more problems. I'm sure there are other products that do the same thing.
I
> also ordered a couple hundred extra screws, they're really really cheap,
so
> I won't have to reuse any.
>
> Matthew
> 8A canopy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Balch
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 2:02 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Stripped screws...
>
>
> OK, am I crazy here, or are the AN515-8R8 screws that we all received
> with our kits next to worthless? No matter how carefully I turn them,
> the phillips heads seem to strip out of at least 40% of them.
>
> Has anyone else had this trouble? Is there an equivalent screw (pan
> head, 8-32, 1/2") in stainless? What AN or MS number? I checked my
> Spruce catalog and was unable to locate an exact replacement. Any
> ideas?
>
> --
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
> mounting wings
> groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net> |
| Subject: | Horizontal Stab fit |
I intended on fixing the subject line. This message for that reason
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2001 4:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: B and C alternator
>
> Yikes, I am almost inbarrased to make this post!
>
> I am nearing completion of my fuselage and decided to final fit tail
> section. When I get my HS level from side to side, the leading edges of
> each side are about a quarter out. If I match those up the level is waaay
> out from side to side. Could I have a twist in it? HOW could that
happen,
> I was sooo carefull
>
> Seems my options are: 1.) drill the skin off and rejig it for new skin,
> 2.) Level it side to side and pray I don't have a "too much rudder" to
keep
> straight condition, 3.) ???
> Any body know what the tolerance for this would be?
>
> Tim Bryan, CNE (just for scott)
> RV-6 Slider (N616TB Reserved) Hurry up on finish kit before engine and
panel
> to arrive.
>
> tim(at)bryantechnology.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stripped screws... |
Hello Matthew,
The exact consistency of the product runs somewhere between powdery and
flaky. Its closer to very soft soapstone than any thing else I can think of.
Chances are that if you can apply it to the screw threads that it will work
quite well for you.
The tube or cylinder of it that I started using long ago has been applied to
every screw in my aircraft that went into a platenut, it is not yet 1/6 th
gone!
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2001 5:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stripped screws...
>
> My Boelube is sort of powdery, more like deodorant and I would not think
of
> it like Chapstick, "greasy". So is my Boelube no good?
> Marty in Brentwood TN
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Matthew Gelber" <mgelber(at)pacbell.net>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 4:57 PM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Stripped screws...
>
>
> >
> > I had this problem and started using Boelube, a wax lubricant that looks
> > like a big chapstick, on the screw threads before using. Since then, no
> > more problems. I'm sure there are other products that do the same
thing.
> I
> > also ordered a couple hundred extra screws, they're really really cheap,
> so
> > I won't have to reuse any.
> >
> > Matthew
> > 8A canopy
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Balch
> > Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 2:02 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Stripped screws...
> >
> >
> > OK, am I crazy here, or are the AN515-8R8 screws that we all received
> > with our kits next to worthless? No matter how carefully I turn them,
> > the phillips heads seem to strip out of at least 40% of them.
> >
> > Has anyone else had this trouble? Is there an equivalent screw (pan
> > head, 8-32, 1/2") in stainless? What AN or MS number? I checked my
> > Spruce catalog and was unable to locate an exact replacement. Any
> > ideas?
> >
> > --
> > Regards,
> > Ken Balch
> > Ashland, MA
> > RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
> > mounting wings
> > groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | efortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Salvage value |
Kinda hard to say. You know what was in the engine. Maybe core price for the
engine 25% for the electronics. Reusing some of the parts, fuel pump,
gascolator,
etc. would bother me since you don't know what caused the engine to quit.
You got some kind of woman there. I think mine would put her foot down and
say never again. Good luck, glad you survived to tell about it.
Earl RV4
Gregory Young wrote:
>
> Can anyone give me some insight to the salvage value of my plane? My initial
> reaction was that I didn't want to buy it, that if and when I built again it
> would all be fresh. But after my wife suggested "we" build another (God I
> love that woman!) and further reflection, it's probably a good idea to get
> it since I'll be building sooner rather than later. When I talked to the
> adjuster about the salvage he said they normally go for bids and probably
> would give me first right of refusal. He asked me what it was worth to me
> and if I gave him a number he could cut thru all the gyrations. I put him
> off saying I hadn't thought about it that specifically. The big items have
> the most uncertainty: bent prop blades, sudden engine stoppage, some or all
> of the radios may have been foamed with unknown effect. So what's normal in
> these circumstances? I've heard tales of buy backs at 5-10%. It was insured
> for $76K so 10% would be $7600. Is that reasonable? What do the salvage guys
> normally pay? Any thoughts or first hand experience would be appreciated.
>
> Regards,
> Greg Young
> RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) first flight/destroyed 7/12/2001
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Salvage value |
> It was insured for $76K so 10% would be $7600. Is that reasonable?
Don't know, but an engine core will cost you that - since yours wasn't
making power when you hit, perhaps little damage ensued...
The interior was foamed? Some radios might have survived, plus all the
other misc. boxes in the panel. Seat belts, interior, switches, elt,
wiring, relays, battery, firewall forward hoses/fittings/connections...
I would think the list would go on and on.
It wasn't shocking but certainly surprising to learn how much needs to
be spent to get one of these things in the air, above and beyond the
airframe - and you have a lot of it right there, plus an engine core.
If you don't buy it, another RV builder probably will... and I gotta
say I admire your wife and envy you.
;)
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Stripped screws... |
Sorry for the bad description - I meant it looked like a big chapstick. The
product itself is powdery-waxy, not greasy-waxy.
Also, I don't think it's for use on fasteners that are to be torqued- at
least not with the standard torque tables, which are for "dry" threads... so
keep it away from your bolts... I think.
Matthew
8A canopy
Recovering from CO poisoning received while heating garage up to 120 degrees
to drill canopy... no cracks in canopy but possible damage to brain, not
like you'd notice though...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Emrath
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2001 5:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stripped screws...
My Boelube is sort of powdery, more like deodorant and I would not think of
it like Chapstick, "greasy". So is my Boelube no good?
Marty in Brentwood TN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew Gelber" <mgelber(at)pacbell.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 4:57 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Stripped screws...
>
> I had this problem and started using Boelube, a wax lubricant that looks
> like a big chapstick, on the screw threads before using. Since then, no
> more problems. I'm sure there are other products that do the same thing.
I
> also ordered a couple hundred extra screws, they're really really cheap,
so
> I won't have to reuse any.
>
> Matthew
> 8A canopy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Balch
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 2:02 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Stripped screws...
>
>
> OK, am I crazy here, or are the AN515-8R8 screws that we all received
> with our kits next to worthless? No matter how carefully I turn them,
> the phillips heads seem to strip out of at least 40% of them.
>
> Has anyone else had this trouble? Is there an equivalent screw (pan
> head, 8-32, 1/2") in stainless? What AN or MS number? I checked my
> Spruce catalog and was unable to locate an exact replacement. Any
> ideas?
>
> --
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
> mounting wings
> groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
Does anyone know what is going on at Navaid Devices? They do not have
their booth at Oshkosh this year, and when I checked their website just
now, the site is no longer there.
Jeff Point
Milwaukee WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Senenich Propeller |
Hello All: Talked to the Senenich Propeller Rep at Oshkosh this week, I
asked about the restriction on the 0-320 engine. He said they had just
completed the test a few days ago, and the 2600 RPM restriction will
remain. They could not cure the vibration problem without performance
loss, so they decided to leave as is.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB N602RV
--- Harvey Sigmon
--- flyhars(at)earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
| Subject: | Exhaust Systems?? |
All,
I have an old tripacer crossover exhaust system thats been around a long
time with lots of patches and welding. After much soul searching, I have
decided not to trust the old relic and buy a new exhaust. Vans has one for
$630, which is alot for a couple of pipes, and I was wondering if anyone
has had good success with anything else?
I do want to stay with stainless for obvious reasons and muffler shops have
mostly carbon steel, which will quickly rust out. I ask if anyone has
thought about this.
thanks
Dan Ward
81243
N417SN (reserved)
Firewall forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stripped screws... |
A good tip I swiped from this list several years ago regarding lubricating
screws into nutplates was to use wax from the wax rings used to set toilets.
It really works like magic, and it is the right consistency to easily apply.
Just stick the first couple threads of the screw into it. However, the main
value is the entertainment one gets from curious onlookers who wonder what a
crapper ring is doing near an airplane.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A almost done.
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Exhaust Systems?? |
believe me...after "playing" with an lycoming exhaust for several days, the
vetterman (van's) is the ONLY way to go..it made it a pleasure to install..in
fact it was about the only thing that has NOT given me some sort of trouble
since the entire project began....by all means ..lay out the bucks ..you will
not regret it..
RV8A thinking andsaving for paint.
TwoAviators wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: TwoAviators
>
> All,
>
> I have an old tripacer crossover exhaust system thats been around a long
> time with lots of patches and welding. After much soul searching, I have
> decided not to trust the old relic and buy a new exhaust. Vans has one for
> $630, which is alot for a couple of pipes, and I was wondering if anyone
> has had good success with anything else?
>
> I do want to stay with stainless for obvious reasons and muffler shops have
> mostly carbon steel, which will quickly rust out. I ask if anyone has
> thought about this.
>
> thanks
>
> Dan Ward
> 81243
> N417SN (reserved)
> Firewall forward
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: B and C alternator |
Tim,
I went to great lengths to be sure there wasn't any twist in my HS. I was
so worried about it though, that I called Vans to find out what the
tolerance was in case it was too small to be measured with my setup. The
person I talked to (sorry, can't remember the exact name) said it could be
out by a quarter inch - on each side! I had visions of only being able to
turn one way. At any rate, I knew I didn't have that much so I moved on.
It might be worth it to get a more accurate measurement and give Vans a
call.
Kelly
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2001 6:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: B and C alternator
>
> Yikes, I am almost inbarrased to make this post!
>
> I am nearing completion of my fuselage and decided to final fit tail
> section. When I get my HS level from side to side, the leading edges of
> each side are about a quarter out. If I match those up the level is waaay
> out from side to side. Could I have a twist in it? HOW could that
happen,
> I was sooo carefull
>
> Seems my options are: 1.) drill the skin off and rejig it for new skin,
> 2.) Level it side to side and pray I don't have a "too much rudder" to
keep
> straight condition, 3.) ???
> Any body know what the tolerance for this would be?
>
> Tim Bryan, CNE (just for scott)
> RV-6 Slider (N616TB Reserved) Hurry up on finish kit before engine and
panel
> to arrive.
>
> tim(at)bryantechnology.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Lycoming Oil Temp Sensor Threads |
I have Van's oil temp gage which needs a reducer as the hole on the Lyc is
too big. It looked like a 3/8 pipe thread so bought an AN912-3A bushing
reducer. But the treads don't seem to be pipe. What have others used for a
reducer?
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 N88MJ starting forward baggage door
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | F683 fuel selector valve support |
There was some discussion of this in the archives, but it didn't seem to
resolve the issue. The F683A plate (RV-6/6A) that supports the fuel
selector valve is substantially narrower than the one shown in the
drawing 32 and consequently the F683B supports don't quite line up with
the spar bolts as shown in that drawing.
I'd appreciate it if some one could answer these 2 questions for me:
1- It apears that the vertical F683-B pieces are anchored to the
airframe only by the 3/8" bolts that go thru the spar and F604. Is that
correct? They don't attach to the floor or the angle on the floor?
2- Is it necessary to trim away any of the flange on the forward edge of
the seat skins to get the F683-A plate mounted properly?
Thanks for any info.
--
Tom Sargent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Canopy troubles - a new problem? |
I may have discovered a new way to screw up a canopy so I thought I'd give
people a heads up... and then I'll ask for advice about if there is a
caulking-type agent for embedding the plexi in.
I fired up the propane heater today and got the garage up to about 120
degrees before I started drilling the canopy to the frame. I really,
really, didn't want cracks. Later (when I turned grey and barfy) I found I
was succumbing to CO poisoning, but I made it throught the drilling OK.
Well, mostly OK. I think it must have been the CO that made me pick skip
the instructions, the part where it says "drill #40"... I just looked at the
plans and saw 1/8" rivets and went to work with my #30 bit.
Well, at the end, I had no cracks, but listen to this: the big drill bit
working away at the steel frame must have generated a lot more heat then the
smaller, recommended bits, because around lots of the holes there was a
little bit of melted plexi on the inside of the canopy, rings around the
holes up to maybe 1/4" in diameter. I figure the change in crystalline
structure at the boundary of the melted area is a great stress riser. So
let this be a warning to you, if you haven't drilled yet.
My solution: I opened all of the holes to 3/16" with a unibit and most of
the problem went away, but a few of the holes still have a little bit of the
melt around them. I deburred the holes with a fine cone-stone in a dremel,
and will mount the canopy to the frame with 6-32 screws, countersunk
washers, and nutserts.
So here's the question- to cut down on vibration and the chance of these
things cracking later, I'd like to run a bead of something onto the canopy
frame before I drop the canopy onto it. Something that the plexi could bed
down into and cut vibration. Are there any products that are made for this?
I know we need to allow for differential expansion of the canopy and frame,
but the desing doesn't actually do that very well... Anyway, I'd rather use
nothing than pick a product that crazes the canopy but I thought I'd ask if
there is such a thing.
Matthew
8A Canopy... rehydrating
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | fuel selector valve - air flow performance |
RV-6/6A builders:
For those of you who have Air flow performance fuel injection, as you
know, it features a fuel purge valve. That allows you to circulate some
cold fuel thru the system before trying to start the engine and it is
claimed this prevents vapor lock. So there has to be a purged-fuel
return line going back into one or both tanks somehow.
I noticed that Andair makes a nice looking duplex fuel valve that can be
used to switch both the supply line from the tank and the purge-return
line back to the tank at the same time. Looks neat. Unfortunately it
requires plumbing a separate return line back to each tank. There are
then 5 fuel lines going into the fuel selector instead of the usual 3.
Has any one used this valve or one like it?
If so, is there room for all that plumbing to fit under the F683 fuel
selector valve plate?
Thanks.
--
Tom Sargent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <glassman(at)tns.net> |
Ed Bundy wrote in response to Paul Besings out of rig plane the
following:-
From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Right Rudder Tension
"I run about .5-.75 ball out on climb and dead center in cruise. (I
offset my VS by .25", and I don't know if that helped or if all of my
errors
in the airframe just cancelled each other out)"
The "offset my VS" got my attention. As a new builder I was under the
impression that the vertical stabs are set to the longitudinal axis of
the plane. Is this a false assumption and is everyone mounting these
with an offset?
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV (res) Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Oil Temp Sensor Threads |
Hi Mike,
You will find the part you want in the 1999-2000 Avery tool catalog on page
64 at the bottom of the page, fitting number 147 I believe is the one you
will want.
Jim - in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2001 9:30 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lycoming Oil Temp Sensor Threads
>
> I have Van's oil temp gage which needs a reducer as the hole on the Lyc is
> too big. It looked like a 3/8 pipe thread so bought an AN912-3A bushing
> reducer. But the treads don't seem to be pipe. What have others used for
a
> reducer?
>
> Mike Robbins
> RV8Q 80591 N88MJ starting forward baggage door
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: F683 fuel selector valve support |
Hi Tom,
If I am interpreting your questions correctly my answer to #1 is: I
attached the supports to the 3/8" spar bolts and the floor angles and find
that the floor and the fuel selector valve are well supported this way.
#2- I trimmed the side flanges on the selector valve support so that the
remaining rear top portion of the selector support could be attached flat
onto the forward "seat skins".
*Some builders lower the valve support about 2 to 3 inches so that the valve
has less chance of being in the way of egress to and from the aircraft.
Jim - in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom sargent" <sarg314(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2001 10:08 PM
Subject: RV-List: F683 fuel selector valve support
>
> There was some discussion of this in the archives, but it didn't seem to
> resolve the issue. The F683A plate (RV-6/6A) that supports the fuel
> selector valve is substantially narrower than the one shown in the
> drawing 32 and consequently the F683B supports don't quite line up with
> the spar bolts as shown in that drawing.
>
> I'd appreciate it if some one could answer these 2 questions for me:
>
> 1- It apears that the vertical F683-B pieces are anchored to the
> airframe only by the 3/8" bolts that go thru the spar and F604. Is that
> correct? They don't attach to the floor or the angle on the floor?
>
> 2- Is it necessary to trim away any of the flange on the forward edge of
> the seat skins to get the F683-A plate mounted properly?
>
> Thanks for any info.
> --
> Tom Sargent.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Oil Temp Sensor Threads |
Mike: You need part VA-147 from Vans it costs $7.52 and comes with a gasket.
Just installed it on my 0-360-A1A to use Van's sending unit and gauge.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael J. Robbins <kitfox(at)gte.net>
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2001 12:30 AM
Subject: RV-List: Lycoming Oil Temp Sensor Threads
>
> I have Van's oil temp gage which needs a reducer as the hole on the Lyc is
> too big. It looked like a 3/8 pipe thread so bought an AN912-3A bushing
> reducer. But the treads don't seem to be pipe. What have others used for
a
> reducer?
>
> Mike Robbins
> RV8Q 80591 N88MJ starting forward baggage door
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Horizontal Stabilizer way out |
Tim,
I'd call Van's before drilling anything. I think there is a variety of
differences in the HS in their experience.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
-----Original Message-----
I am nearing completion of my fuselage and decided to final fit tail
section. When I get my HS level from side to side, the leading edges of
each side are about a quarter out. If I match those up the level is waaay
out from side to side. Could I have a twist in it? HOW could that happen,
I was sooo carefull
Seems my options are: 1.) drill the skin off and rejig it for new skin,
2.) Level it side to side and pray I don't have a "too much rudder" to keep
straight condition, 3.) ???
Any body know what the tolerance for this would be?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Oil Temp Sensor Threads |
I bought Van's reducer and put the sender in the top of the oil filter
housing.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
RV6 finish
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael J. Robbins <kitfox(at)gte.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2001 11:30 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lycoming Oil Temp Sensor Threads
>
> I have Van's oil temp gage which needs a reducer as the hole on the Lyc is
> too big. It looked like a 3/8 pipe thread so bought an AN912-3A bushing
> reducer. But the treads don't seem to be pipe. What have others used for
a
> reducer?
>
> Mike Robbins
> RV8Q 80591 N88MJ starting forward baggage door
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
I just received my unit this week.
Barry Pote RV9a fuselage
Jeff Point wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone know what is going on at Navaid Devices? They do not have
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Zercher" <ez(at)sensenich.com> |
| Subject: | Senenich Propeller |
Harvey is correct. I just got back from Oshkosh so I was not able to publish
this until now. I received word from Ken while at Oshkosh that the 70CM data
has been finally broken down and read. The resonance that we saw several
years ago when the propeller was first released is indeed there. We had
suspected that it was caused be radio frequency interference; however, we
know now that it was indeed a resonance. Do not operate the 70CM series
propeller over 2600 RPM. As a reminder, and to avoid confusion, the 72FM
(O-360 prop) does NOT have a placard.
Sorry,
Ed Zercher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | fuel selector valve - air flow performance |
Tom
I recently went throught this whole ordeal, and researched it extensively.
First, not everybody is using the purge valve, infact, some here in Florida
(HOT, HOT) are not using it and have had no problems in 1+ years of use.
Second, you are likely making much too big a deal about getting fuel back to
the tank. During my research, I called Air Flow Performance and talked to
several people... Here is what they recommend, what most people do, and what
I am doing.
Run the purge fuel line (number 4) flexible hose to the firewall, through a
bulkhead fitting, into 1/4" aluminum tubing back to the region of your fuel
selector valve. Take the 3/8 inch tubing that comes FROM ONE tank (mine is
the right tank) and put a "T" in it somewhere near the selector valve. Into
this "T", you run your new 1/4" purge valve tubing (a 3/8 to 1/4 reducer
will be needed somewhere in this region). Thats it.
Now, you placard the purge valve control knob "select left tank during
purge" or something like that.
Stay away from the bit (expensive) Andair selector because you simply do not
need it. The AFP people told me that flat out, its not needed for their
system.
jim
Tampa
RV-6/6A builders:
For those of you who have Air flow performance fuel injection, as you
know, it features a fuel purge valve. That allows you to circulate some
cold fuel thru the system before trying to start the engine and it is
claimed this prevents vapor lock. So there has to be a purged-fuel
return line going back into one or both tanks somehow.
I noticed that Andair makes a nice looking duplex fuel valve that can be
used to switch both the supply line from the tank and the purge-return
line back to the tank at the same time. Looks neat. Unfortunately it
requires plumbing a separate return line back to each tank. There are
then 5 fuel lines going into the fuel selector instead of the usual 3.
Has any one used this valve or one like it?
If so, is there room for all that plumbing to fit under the F683 fuel
selector valve plate?
Thanks.
--
Tom Sargent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rivnuts for Canopy.... |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
08:09:12 AM
Hey Kurt, I've been researching that myself. Of course the wind screen is a
no brainer, tap the roll bar. I just visited a local -8 builder that used
rivnuts for the slider frame. Big mistake sez he. The problem is you are
seating a flat surface on a curved surface and then trying to pull it tight
AND keep the screw head flush with the glass when you are done. Thats where
the killer is, you end up with your screw heads not flush to the surface of
the canopy. I'm convinced that rivnuts are not for the slider. Also you
would need to drill the canopy with spacers in between the glass and frame,
then you'd be stuck with rivnuts or spacers. Although I'm sure I share your
reluctance to pull a popper into $1000.00 worth of plastic, I think it
still gives the cleanest instillation.
Just my opinion
Eric Henson
KAKlewin(at)aol.com@matronics.com on 07/26/2001 04:22:31 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Rivnuts for Canopy....
OK...getting to fitting the canopy....and am wondering what seems to be the
most used (best??) method of attaching the plexi to the frame...I have
seen
Rivnuts, Pop-Rivets, and tap/die method. From those in the field what
seems
to be the best approach to this??
Kurt in OKC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Oil Temp Sensor Threads |
In a message dated 7/26/01 11:33:37 PM Central Daylight Time, kitfox(at)gte.net
writes:
<< I have Van's oil temp gage which needs a reducer as the hole on the Lyc is
too big. It looked like a 3/8 pipe thread so bought an AN912-3A bushing
reducer. But the treads don't seem to be pipe. What have others used for a
reducer? >>
Vans has the correct reducer for this. Give them a call.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (mounting and rigging wings)
http://www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: VS alignment. |
>
>
> The "offset my VS" got my attention. As a new builder I was under the
> impression that the vertical stabs are set to the longitudinal axis of
> the plane. Is this a false assumption and is everyone mounting these
> with an offset?
>
Vans, at least on the RV-6, calls for the VS to be installed straight ahead.
Some builders report a centered ball in cruise when installed this way (the
engine is offset). Some builders offset the VS and report their ball is not
centered. Maybe they did it not enough or too much. Some report VS offset
is not very effective at changing the way the plane flies.
It is hard to know how much to offset it or if that is necessary at all
because testing and changing are difficult.
Many decide the better part of valor is to build per plans, wait till all
the fairings are on, then trim with a small tab on the rudder. As the
builder, it is your choice.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy troubles - a new problem? |
Matt,
We used semweld (aka proseal) to attach the canopy to the frame (with only 4-6
keeper rivets). The canopy is firmly attached and the semweld provides somw elasticity.
Keep building - it will come out fine,
Chuck Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (finishing up)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Stripped screw update... |
Thanks to all for the good advice on proper screw handling. It turns
out that I've got the right screwdriver, but wasn't lubricating the
screw threads. The application of a little Boelube seems to have solved
the problem completely.
Thanks, again.
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 (N118KB)
mounting wings
groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F683 fuel selector valve support |
> I'd appreciate it if some one could answer these 2 questions for me:
>
> 1- It apears that the vertical F683-B pieces are anchored to the
> airframe only by the 3/8" bolts that go thru the spar and F604. Is
> that
> correct? They don't attach to the floor or the angle on the floor?
Yes. Some have cobbled a connection to the floor, but this is not a
"structure" - the four bolts through the spar plus the screws through
the plate, will hold quite well.
>
> 2- Is it necessary to trim away any of the flange on the forward edge
> of
> the seat skins to get the F683-A plate mounted properly?
If you assemble per plans the valve mounting plate will get its flange
trimmed off from the rear end up to where the side braces meet,
allowing it to fit _over_ the seat pan. If you take the advice of some
(as I have) you will also trim the front of the seat pan/skin to allow
the valve mounting plate to fit _under_ it, thus allowing you to remove
the seat pan without having to remove the fuel valve mount.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "EWSpears" <ewspears(at)peoplepc.com> |
I've heard several listers complaining about the long wait for a Navaid.
Check out ebay "NAVAID AutoPilot AP1"
Item # 1620952804
Esten Spears, 80922, RV8A, Canopy Frame
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel selector valve - air flow performance |
I agree with Jim. The purge valve will have infrequent use. The only thing
I did different is I ran the 1/4" return line all the way back to the left
tank. The plumbing to do this was about as hard as adding another T in the
fuel line, and I thought the on the really bad days returning to the tank
would ensure the engine got the coolest gas during the purge.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (systems install)
Vienna, VA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2001 8:11 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: fuel selector valve - air flow performance
>
> Tom
> I recently went throught this whole ordeal, and researched it extensively.
>
> First, not everybody is using the purge valve, infact, some here in
Florida
> (HOT, HOT) are not using it and have had no problems in 1+ years of use.
>
> Second, you are likely making much too big a deal about getting fuel back
to
> the tank. During my research, I called Air Flow Performance and talked to
> several people... Here is what they recommend, what most people do, and
what
> I am doing.
>
> Run the purge fuel line (number 4) flexible hose to the firewall, through
a
> bulkhead fitting, into 1/4" aluminum tubing back to the region of your
fuel
> selector valve. Take the 3/8 inch tubing that comes FROM ONE tank (mine
is
> the right tank) and put a "T" in it somewhere near the selector valve.
Into
> this "T", you run your new 1/4" purge valve tubing (a 3/8 to 1/4 reducer
> will be needed somewhere in this region). Thats it.
>
> Now, you placard the purge valve control knob "select left tank during
> purge" or something like that.
>
> Stay away from the bit (expensive) Andair selector because you simply do
not
> need it. The AFP people told me that flat out, its not needed for their
> system.
>
> jim
> Tampa
>
>
> RV-6/6A builders:
>
> For those of you who have Air flow performance fuel injection, as you
> know, it features a fuel purge valve. That allows you to circulate some
> cold fuel thru the system before trying to start the engine and it is
> claimed this prevents vapor lock. So there has to be a purged-fuel
> return line going back into one or both tanks somehow.
>
> I noticed that Andair makes a nice looking duplex fuel valve that can be
> used to switch both the supply line from the tank and the purge-return
> line back to the tank at the same time. Looks neat. Unfortunately it
> requires plumbing a separate return line back to each tank. There are
> then 5 fuel lines going into the fuel selector instead of the usual 3.
>
> Has any one used this valve or one like it?
>
> If so, is there room for all that plumbing to fit under the F683 fuel
> selector valve plate?
>
> Thanks.
> --
> Tom Sargent.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy troubles - a new problem? |
I have tried rubber.(byutl) that they set windshields for the new cars
into...seems to work well..hasn't crazed yet, and has been on for about 3
months...it's about as round as a pencil, and comes in a big roll..might try
that...jolly
RV8A saving for paint
Matthew Gelber wrote:
>
> I may have discovered a new way to screw up a canopy so I thought I'd give
> people a heads up... and then I'll ask for advice about if there is a
> caulking-type agent for embedding the plexi in.
>
> I fired up the propane heater today and got the garage up to about 120
> degrees before I started drilling the canopy to the frame. I really,
> really, didn't want cracks. Later (when I turned grey and barfy) I found I
> was succumbing to CO poisoning, but I made it throught the drilling OK.
> Well, mostly OK. I think it must have been the CO that made me pick skip
> the instructions, the part where it says "drill #40"... I just looked at the
> plans and saw 1/8" rivets and went to work with my #30 bit.
>
> Well, at the end, I had no cracks, but listen to this: the big drill bit
> working away at the steel frame must have generated a lot more heat then the
> smaller, recommended bits, because around lots of the holes there was a
> little bit of melted plexi on the inside of the canopy, rings around the
> holes up to maybe 1/4" in diameter. I figure the change in crystalline
> structure at the boundary of the melted area is a great stress riser. So
> let this be a warning to you, if you haven't drilled yet.
>
> My solution: I opened all of the holes to 3/16" with a unibit and most of
> the problem went away, but a few of the holes still have a little bit of the
> melt around them. I deburred the holes with a fine cone-stone in a dremel,
> and will mount the canopy to the frame with 6-32 screws, countersunk
> washers, and nutserts.
>
> So here's the question- to cut down on vibration and the chance of these
> things cracking later, I'd like to run a bead of something onto the canopy
> frame before I drop the canopy onto it. Something that the plexi could bed
> down into and cut vibration. Are there any products that are made for this?
> I know we need to allow for differential expansion of the canopy and frame,
> but the desing doesn't actually do that very well... Anyway, I'd rather use
> nothing than pick a product that crazes the canopy but I thought I'd ask if
> there is such a thing.
>
> Matthew
> 8A Canopy... rehydrating
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Spread sheets for weight and Balance |
The spread sheets I tried to attach to an earlier message were stripped from
the message. Due to a high interest from people on the list I will be
cleaning up the format on the files and posting them for all to use and
abuse at thier discresion. I will let the list know when I get them done
and ready for use.
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
Anyone else have a problem with the ELT tripping in flight. I had it happen
last night during a turn, I wasn't even hard turn!
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: VS alignment. |
About 6 years ago when I was mounting the VS if was fairly common to offset
it slightly to counteract engine torque and avoid the fact that a lot of
people were ending up using a trim tab on the rudder. To the best of my
knowledge nobody has ever done any quantifiable testing to see what the
difference was before and after.
I'm not positive that offsetting it by .25" does anything, but my airplane
flies perfectly straight in cruise. So it either: A) does nothing and would
have been straight anyway B) exactly cancels out any excess torque C) the
airframe doesn't need any adjusting, but mine had just enough build error to
cancel out the effectiveness of the offset D) etc...
My *guess* is that it does yaw the airplane slightly, (about the same as a
small trim tab) it doesn't do any harm, and at least I don't need a trim tab
hanging off the rudder. I've never heard of anyone offsetting it by that
slight amount and having to hold left rudder, but I know lots of people that
didn't offset that need a trim tab to yaw slightly to the right, so it
seemed like a wise idea to me.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> "I run about .5-.75 ball out on climb and dead center in cruise. (I
> offset my VS by .25", and I don't know if that helped or if all of my
> errors
> in the airframe just cancelled each other out)"
>
> The "offset my VS" got my attention. As a new builder I was under the
> impression that the vertical stabs are set to the longitudinal axis of
> the plane. Is this a false assumption and is everyone mounting these
> with an offset?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid on ebay |
Navaid has and has had a 6 month backlog. But, given that, they are
still shipping on time. Remember to tell them where you're going to be
mounting the servo--an under the seat pan install reguires some mods to
the servo. Also, ask for wiring diagrams to include any extra resistors
and diodes.
Boyd.
EWSpears wrote:
>
>
> I've heard several listers complaining about the long wait for a Navaid.
> Check out ebay "NAVAID AutoPilot AP1"
> Item # 1620952804
> Esten Spears, 80922, RV8A, Canopy Frame
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy troubles - a new problem? |
Try using Butal. It's the black sticky stuff that is
used to set windsheilds in place with. The only
problem is, you will see it from the inside, unless
you can think of a way to cover it up.
====
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 7/22/01
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | fuel selector valve - air flow performance |
I'd call airflow and ask them- I'm sure they'll tell you not to bother. The
duplex valve is really for injected Continental engines- they require fuel
return to the tank at all times.
Matthew
8A canopy head scratchin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of tom sargent
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2001 10:17 PM
Subject: RV-List: fuel selector valve - air flow performance
RV-6/6A builders:
For those of you who have Air flow performance fuel injection, as you
know, it features a fuel purge valve. That allows you to circulate some
cold fuel thru the system before trying to start the engine and it is
claimed this prevents vapor lock. So there has to be a purged-fuel
return line going back into one or both tanks somehow.
I noticed that Andair makes a nice looking duplex fuel valve that can be
used to switch both the supply line from the tank and the purge-return
line back to the tank at the same time. Looks neat. Unfortunately it
requires plumbing a separate return line back to each tank. There are
then 5 fuel lines going into the fuel selector instead of the usual 3.
Has any one used this valve or one like it?
If so, is there room for all that plumbing to fit under the F683 fuel
selector valve plate?
Thanks.
--
Tom Sargent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Twist in Horizontal Stab |
| From: | "John Allen" <fliier(at)onebox.com> |
After I built my Horizontal Stabilizer I discovered it had a twist that
was about 1/2" overall. For 8 years I worried about that, even though
the guys at Van's told me not to.
On the first flight the airplane flew hands off.
Keep building so you can get to the really bad screw-ups.
--
John Allen
RV6A flying
Sign Up Now! http://www.onebox.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Marking Wiring |
Hi Bob,
Check is in the mail!
Pat
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Haan" <bhaan(at)easystreet.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2001 3:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Marking Wiring
>
> I wrote an article for the RVator and shared tips on how to create the
> labels Paul referenced below. These tips are very detailed and make
> constructing these labels very easy. This article was in the "First Issue
> 2001" of the RVator on page 8.
>
> Ken Scott did not include a picture which would have made the text more
> understandable.
> If anyone has some questions or would like this picture, please do not
> hesitate to send me an email.
>
> Of course, if you would like some info regarding the WigWag Solid State
> Controller, we will send that to you too or see the web page.
>
> Bob
> RV6A almost.
> http://easystreet.com/~bhaan/
>
> >
> >I didn't do this, but wish I had. You can buy clear
> >shrink tube. Make some labels of wires on a laser
> >printer, cut and put the clear shrink tube over the
> >wire. They look really nice, and you don't have to
> >worry about them coming off.
> >====
> >Paul Besing
> >RV-6A 197AB Arizona
> >http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
>
> Bob Haan
> 14270 S W Koven Ct
> Tigard, OR 97224
> Email: bhaan(at)easystreet.com
> Home: 503 579-2729
> Mobile: 503 720-1132
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Lyc Oil Temp Sensor Adapter - THANKS! |
Thanks all for your inputs. I didn't see the adapter in Van's catalog when
I ordered the gage, but there it is in bold type. I'm forgetting what those
Marine drill instructors drilled into our heads during Naval Aviation
Officer's Training - Attention to detail!.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: VS alignment. |
The doubler plate which attaches the VS forward spar to the HS forward spar
has the offset built into it in the -9 kit, probably the same for the 7 too.
I think it was 5/16 offset. It works well, no need for rudder trim.
Kevin -9A
flying
>
> About 6 years ago when I was mounting the VS if was fairly common to offset
> it slightly to counteract engine torque and avoid the fact that a lot of
> people were ending up using a trim tab on the rudder. To the best of my
> knowledge nobody has ever done any quantifiable testing to see what the
> difference was before and after.
>
> I'm not positive that offsetting it by .25" does anything, but my airplane
> flies perfectly straight in cruise. So it either: A) does nothing and
would
> have been straight anyway B) exactly cancels out any excess torque C) the
> airframe doesn't need any adjusting, but mine had just enough build error
to
> cancel out the effectiveness of the offset D) etc...
>
> My *guess* is that it does yaw the airplane slightly, (about the same as a
> small trim tab) it doesn't do any harm, and at least I don't need a trim
tab
> hanging off the rudder. I've never heard of anyone offsetting it by that
> slight amount and having to hold left rudder, but I know lots of people
that
> didn't offset that need a trim tab to yaw slightly to the right, so it
> seemed like a wise idea to me.
>
> Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
> 160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
> Eagle, ID
> ebundy(at)velocitus.net
>
>
> > "I run about .5-.75 ball out on climb and dead center in cruise. (I
> > offset my VS by .25", and I don't know if that helped or if all of my
> > errors
> > in the airframe just cancelled each other out)"
> >
> > The "offset my VS" got my attention. As a new builder I was under the
> > impression that the vertical stabs are set to the longitudinal axis of
> > the plane. Is this a false assumption and is everyone mounting these
> > with an offset?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <timbryan(at)oregontrail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Twist in Horizontal Stab |
Thanks for all the input about this. It sounds like a concensus. I am
going to level it side to side for looks and leave the leading edges 1/4"
different from each other. I realize the emp fairings never fit anyway.
Tim Bryan - Redmond, Oregon
RV-6 Slider (N616TB Reserved) Finish kit
tim(at)bryantechnology.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Allen" <fliier(at)onebox.com>
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2001 8:12 AM
Subject: RV-List: Twist in Horizontal Stab
>
> After I built my Horizontal Stabilizer I discovered it had a twist that
> was about 1/2" overall. For 8 years I worried about that, even though
> the guys at Van's told me not to.
>
> On the first flight the airplane flew hands off.
>
> Keep building so you can get to the really bad screw-ups.
>
> --
> John Allen
> RV6A flying
>
>
> Sign Up Now! http://www.onebox.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Oil Temp Sensor Threads |
Van's and Avery have the proper adapter. I modified mine by drilling the
upper threads out and taping the 1/8" pipe threads deeper in the fitting. I
wanted the probe to extend deeper into the oil gallery for, hopefully, a more
accurate oil temp reading.
Cash Copeland
>
>
> I have Van's oil temp gage which needs a reducer as the hole on the Lyc is
> too big. It looked like a 3/8 pipe thread so bought an AN912-3A bushing
> reducer. But the treads don't seem to be pipe. What have others used for a
> reducer?
>
> Mike Robbins
> RV8Q 80591 N88MJ starting forward baggage door
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ELT Antenna Location and Type |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
07/27/2001 01:56:19 PM
I have a newly completed RV-4 save for locating and mounting an ELT
antenna. I have installed an Ameri-King ELT in the baggage compartment,
but am reluctant to mount the very large (long) antenna supplied with the
unit. The manufacturer suggests mounting it on the top of the fuselage,
aft of the canopy, but I can't bring myself to do it. I would prefer a
short antenna located under the canopy, though I have not seen any
installations done in this manner. Can anyone suggest a minimally
intrusive antenna and mounting location?
Thanks in advance for the help.
Dean Pichon
N601RD
Fighting for airspace with the FEDS
**** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one of
Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may contain
confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee
only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not
the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
| Subject: | Avery's Email Address |
Does anyone have Avery Tools email address handy ?
Ed Cole
Rv6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moshe Lichtman" <moshe_lichtman(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT Antenna Location and Type |
I have the same ELT and intend to bend the antenna such that it fits under
the canopy. Would love to hear from radio experts about the effects of the
bending on transmission as my current assumption is that length of antenna
is what's key and the 'straightness' of it is not critical
----- Original Message -----
From: <pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com>
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2001 10:54 AM
Subject: RV-List: ELT Antenna Location and Type
>
> I have a newly completed RV-4 save for locating and mounting an ELT
> antenna. I have installed an Ameri-King ELT in the baggage compartment,
> but am reluctant to mount the very large (long) antenna supplied with the
> unit. The manufacturer suggests mounting it on the top of the fuselage,
> aft of the canopy, but I can't bring myself to do it. I would prefer a
> short antenna located under the canopy, though I have not seen any
> installations done in this manner. Can anyone suggest a minimally
> intrusive antenna and mounting location?
>
> Thanks in advance for the help.
>
> Dean Pichon
> N601RD
> Fighting for airspace with the FEDS
> **** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one of
> Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may contain
> confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee
> only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not
> the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.****
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
| Subject: | Canadians: RV + house insurance |
To those Canadians in Ontario.
I'm trying to get home insurance on a house I just bought in Kingston.
I've been refused twice since I mentioned building an airplane in the garage
and they would not accept the liability.
Any ideas on a company that will insure the RV while being built and
my house?
Steve Hurlbut
Comox, BC
shurlbut(at)island.net
moving east
RV-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Avery's Email Address |
Hi Ed,
Avery's email:
Customer service - ken(at)averytools.com
Bye,
Jim - in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT Antenna Location and Type |
Put it under the canopy.
Being invovlved in Navy SAR missions when the Coast Guard (lobby your
Conresspersons to get this outfit more money, they really need it, and
it may be your butt that needs to be pulled out of a mess) wasn't
available in searches for Private planes/boats in the Florida Keys and
reading reports in Aviation News & Aerospace Weekly, ELT transmissions
have never pinpointed a crash site that couldn't be observed from the
air rescue craft, visually. Also, distressed ships at sea alerted
rescuers by the ELT transmission, but still had to be visually
identified for rescue--much easier in open water than in a forest or on
the side of a mountain. In other words, your internally mounted ELT may
alert rescuers that some one/some where is in trouble, if they hear it,
but they can't pinpoint the site unless they can see the crash site.
If you want to be safe, untill they legislate the new ELT frequency for
better satellite position fixes, get a hand held unit (in addition to
your mounted one) and (if you are able) activate it when you hear/see
rescue ops overhead.
We tested one unit that we strapped a G-meter to and slammed it into a
wall, regestering 8 gs--it didn't go off. Other units went off when
just dropped on the floor from 3-4 ft--go figure. I helped do an annual
(condition) inspection on one plane that didn't have any batteries in
the ELT.
Also see: http://www.equipped.org/
Again, do anything that you can to get more money to the Coast Guard.
And, support your local Civilian Aerial Patrol people.
Boyd.
Moshe Lichtman wrote:
>
>
> I have the same ELT and intend to bend the antenna such that it fits under
> the canopy. Would love to hear from radio experts about the effects of the
> bending on transmission as my current assumption is that length of antenna
> is what's key and the 'straightness' of it is not critical
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, July 27, 2001 10:54 AM
> Subject: RV-List: ELT Antenna Location and Type
>
> >
> > I have a newly completed RV-4 save for locating and mounting an ELT
> > antenna. I have installed an Ameri-King ELT in the baggage compartment,
> > but am reluctant to mount the very large (long) antenna supplied with the
> > unit. The manufacturer suggests mounting it on the top of the fuselage,
> > aft of the canopy, but I can't bring myself to do it. I would prefer a
> > short antenna located under the canopy, though I have not seen any
> > installations done in this manner. Can anyone suggest a minimally
> > intrusive antenna and mounting location?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | efortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Avery's Email Address |
www.averytools.com
"Cole, Ed" wrote:
>
> Does anyone have Avery Tools email address handy ?
>
> Ed Cole
> Rv6A N2169D Flying
> RV6A N648RV Finishing
> Maxim Home Page:
> http://www.maxim-ic.com
> Products Page:
> http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
> New Products:
> http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
> Datasheets:
> http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
> The information contained in this message is confidential
> and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
> solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
> recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
> or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
> If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
> by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT Antenna Location and Type |
--- pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com wrote:
>
> I have a newly completed RV-4 save for locating and mounting an ELT
> antenna. I have installed an Ameri-King ELT in the baggage
> compartment,
> but am reluctant to mount the very large (long) antenna supplied with
> the
> unit. The manufacturer suggests mounting it on the top of the
> fuselage,
> aft of the canopy, but I can't bring myself to do it. I would prefer
> a
> short antenna located under the canopy, though I have not seen any
> installations done in this manner. Can anyone suggest a minimally
> intrusive antenna and mounting location?
>
See
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/panel.html
Scroll down to the ELT antenna shot. Will be under the fairing.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Avery's Email Address |
Ed,
Try:
orders(at)averytools.com
or
catalog(at)averytools.com
or just go to their website:
www.averytools.com
Kelly
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com>
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2001 1:27 PM
Subject: RV-List: Avery's Email Address
>
> Does anyone have Avery Tools email address handy ?
>
> Ed Cole
> Rv6A N2169D Flying
> RV6A N648RV Finishing
> Maxim Home Page:
> http://www.maxim-ic.com
> Products Page:
> http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
> New Products:
> http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
> Datasheets:
> http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
> The information contained in this message is confidential
> and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
> solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
> recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
> or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
> If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
> by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT Antenna Location and Type |
Unfortunately, you can't have a shorter antenna,
because it won't be able to transmit on the proper
frequency. There is a "shorter" one, just becuase it
has some coils in it, but the overall length is the
same. I don't know how to do it on the -4, but on my
-6A I put it aft of the roll bar, curved it to follow
the contour of the roll bar, and secured to the roll
bar with adel clamps.
---
====
Paul Besing
RV-6A 197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 7/22/01
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Avery's Email Address |
Ed, my advice, having been there..... Don't email...CALL both Avery and
Navaid. They are easy to get on the phone and both very poor at
returning email. Both are great people! But call.
Barry POte RV9a fuselage
"Cole, Ed" wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone have Avery Tools email address handy ?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Avery's Email Address |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Avery's Email Address
Thread-Index: AcEW5cWOXxVpRd8tQ6OYYNwZLY7XmgAAY+UA
| From: | "Todd Wenzel" <TWenzel(at)hsdinc.com> |
email: info(at)averytools.com
website: www.averytools.com
Todd Wenzel
twenzel(at)hsdinc.com
Delafield, Wisconsin
RV-8AQB, Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: Cole, Ed [mailto:Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com]
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2001 1:27 PM
Subject: RV-List: Avery's Email Address
Does anyone have Avery Tools email address handy ?
Ed Cole
Rv6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bert murillo <bertrv6(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VS alignment. |
--- Ed Bundy wrote:
>
>
> About 6 years ago when I was mounting the VS if was
> fairly common to offset
> it slightly to counteract engine torque and avoid
> the fact that a lot of
> people were ending up using a trim tab on the
> rudder. To the best of my
> knowledge nobody has ever done any quantifiable
> testing to see what the
> difference was before and after.
>
> I'm not positive that offsetting it by .25" does
> anything, but my airplane
> flies perfectly straight in cruise. So it either:
> A) does nothing and would
> have been straight anyway B) exactly cancels out
> any excess torque C) the
> airframe doesn't need any adjusting, but mine had
> just enough build error to
> cancel out the effectiveness of the offset D)
> etc...
>
> My *guess* is that it does yaw the airplane
> slightly, (about the same as a
> small trim tab) it doesn't do any harm, and at least
> I don't need a trim tab
> hanging off the rudder. I've never heard of anyone
> offsetting it by that
> slight amount and having to hold left rudder, but I
> know lots of people that
> didn't offset that need a trim tab to yaw slightly
> to the right, so it
> seemed like a wise idea to me.
>
> Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
> 160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
> Eagle, ID
> ebundy(at)velocitus.net
>
>
> > "I run about .5-.75 ball out on climb and dead
> center in cruise. (I
> > offset my VS by .25", and I don't know if that
> helped or if all of my
> > errors
> > in the airframe just cancelled each other out)"
> >
> > The "offset my VS" got my attention. As a new
> builder I was under the
> > impression that the vertical stabs are set to the
> longitudinal axis of
> > the plane. Is this a false assumption and is
> everyone mounting these
> > with an offset?
>
> This has been discussed so many times; as always
Van's does not recomend this. Certified airplanes
do not have offset...My cherokee did not have any
offset... Why to fool around with it, if you have to
put small tab, is because, V.S was not straight when
put together..
I folow the Manual and the drawings, is the safest
and best way complete project.
Bert
rv6a
D0 Not archive
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Canadians: RV + house insurance |
Steve:
My house insurance is with BCAA (auto association), which won't help you
directly. But they may have the same underwriter as OML or CAA. BCAA
says my airplane is covered as "contents," which means it's not really
covered at all (i.e. if I lost my house I'd probably run through the $50k
contents coverage before I got to the airplane; or, rather, I wouldn't,
but Susan would). But they did not flinch at all when I told them I was
building an airplane in the basement.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Geeky Feature for W98/W2000 Users |
If you put the following URL in your Active Desktop, your desktop will
show the subject line of the latest message to the RV List, updated once a
minute.
http://www.vansairforce.org/rvlist_update.html
You can read the message by clicking on the link in the Active Desktop
window.
This is handy if you want to keep track of RV List messages when your
email isn't running, or if you are using a different computer. (By the
way, you can also view the URL from an ordinary browser.)
Tedd McHenry
Van's Air Force
Western Canada Wing
www.vansairforce.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Dombroski <f_dombroski(at)yahoo.com> |
I am working with a local mfr who is designing a
stainless or titanium sys for the -8. It will be
several months until my QB fuse arrives and we finish
the sys. If you are in need now - no juy...
Regards
Frank
> From: TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
> Subject: RV8-List: Exhaust Systems??
>
> --> RV8-List message posted by: TwoAviators
>
>
> All,
>
> I have an old tripacer crossover exhaust system
> thats been around a long
> time with lots of patches and welding. After much
> soul searching, I have
> decided not to trust the old relic and buy a new
> exhaust. Vans has one for
> $630, which is alot for a couple of pipes, and I was
> wondering if anyone
> has had good success with anything else?
>
> I do want to stay with stainless for obvious reasons
> and muffler shops have
> mostly carbon steel, which will quickly rust out. I
> ask if anyone has
> thought about this.
>
> thanks
>
> Dan Ward
> 81243
> N417SN (reserved)
> Firewall forward
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "? ???" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
Who are the different vendors and who has the best prices on complete panel packages
for the RV's?
algrajek(at)msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Exhaust Systems?? |
Dan:
My advice: buy the Vetterman exhaust from Van's. It's proven. It's a cinch
to install. You won't find anything cheaper that works and has a decent
service life.
You'll have lots of other fun things to think about in firewall forward
(like oil coolers, among others)...you don't need to reinvent the wheel on
exhaust systems.
Just one man's opinion.
George Kilishek
N888GK
Final assembly
>From: TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Exhaust Systems??
>Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 22:29:45 -0400
>
>--> RV8-List message posted by: TwoAviators
>
>All,
>
>I have an old tripacer crossover exhaust system thats been around a long
>time with lots of patches and welding. After much soul searching, I have
>decided not to trust the old relic and buy a new exhaust. Vans has one for
>$630, which is alot for a couple of pipes, and I was wondering if anyone
>has had good success with anything else?
>
>I do want to stay with stainless for obvious reasons and muffler shops have
>mostly carbon steel, which will quickly rust out. I ask if anyone has
>thought about this.
>
>thanks
>
>Dan Ward
>81243
>N417SN (reserved)
>Firewall forward
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Canadians: RV + house insurance |
>
>To those Canadians in Ontario.
>
>I'm trying to get home insurance on a house I just bought in Kingston.
>I've been refused twice since I mentioned building an airplane in the garage
>and they would not accept the liability.
>Any ideas on a company that will insure the RV while being built and
>my house?
>
>Steve Hurlbut
Steve,
I couldn't find any house insurance that would cover my RV project,
but they had no problem covering everything else. I bought work in
progress insurance from AVEMCO Canada.
Note: I'm only back in town for one night, as I'm enroute from OSH to
Yarmouth, NS. I won't be back in Ottawa again until sometime next
week.
Good luck with the move,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terence Gannon" <tgannon(at)stoneboat.com> |
| Subject: | Canadians: RV + house insurance |
Steve -- I recall asking my house insurance agent regarding coverage for
my -6 project, and while they had no problem covering the house in the usual
manner, they absolutely, positively said that they would not be responsible
for anything even vaguely resembling a part for the RV. However, I'm sure
that I saw somewhere that you can get coverage for work in progress, etc. I
little poking around led me to
http://www.sovereigngeneral.com/english/prod_services/index.html. In turn,
that will link you to a really schmaltzy site for Aviation Insurance
Management, which mentions specifically about homebuilt/work-in-progress.
Unfortunately, there's not a lot more information than that, but there is
contact info that you can follow up. This is the outfit used by the RAAC, I
believe. Of course, there is also Avemco, but I don't know if they will
cover aircraft in Canada (I suspect not). Let us know what you find out!
Hope this helps...
Terry in Calgary
S/N 24414
Left Wing Underway Again After Two Year Layoff
"Rumours of my demise have been greatly exaggerated." -- Mark Twain (I
think.)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Steve Hurlbut
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2001 12:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: Canadians: RV + house insurance
To those Canadians in Ontario.
I'm trying to get home insurance on a house I just bought in Kingston.
I've been refused twice since I mentioned building an airplane in the garage
and they would not accept the liability.
Any ideas on a company that will insure the RV while being built and
my house?
Steve Hurlbut
Comox, BC
shurlbut(at)island.net
moving east
RV-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Exhaust Systems?? |
a BIG A-MEN!
Sally and George wrote:
>
> Dan:
>
> My advice: buy the Vetterman exhaust from Van's. It's proven. It's a cinch
> to install. You won't find anything cheaper that works and has a decent
> service life.
>
> You'll have lots of other fun things to think about in firewall forward
> (like oil coolers, among others)...you don't need to reinvent the wheel on
> exhaust systems.
>
> Just one man's opinion.
>
> George Kilishek
> N888GK
> Final assembly
>
> >From: TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV8-List: Exhaust Systems??
> >Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 22:29:45 -0400
> >
> >--> RV8-List message posted by: TwoAviators
> >
> >All,
> >
> >I have an old tripacer crossover exhaust system thats been around a long
> >time with lots of patches and welding. After much soul searching, I have
> >decided not to trust the old relic and buy a new exhaust. Vans has one for
> >$630, which is alot for a couple of pipes, and I was wondering if anyone
> >has had good success with anything else?
> >
> >I do want to stay with stainless for obvious reasons and muffler shops have
> >mostly carbon steel, which will quickly rust out. I ask if anyone has
> >thought about this.
> >
> >thanks
> >
> >Dan Ward
> >81243
> >N417SN (reserved)
> >Firewall forward
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 5th Point Installation (longish) |
--- Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
> Paul
> Very nice, simple setup. Did you do this because you feel that Van's
> setup is weak?
> Charlie Kuss
If you have used military harnesses you will quickly see the difference
between the two. Now I don't know if there have ever been tests to
quantify that a standard buckle will resist the same forces that a
MilSpec (and have no doubt, Pacific Harnesses are MilSpec, the real
deal - with an ex-Navy rigger putting them together. IOW, Rob
Huntsinger may have stitched belts for F-14's or P-3's during his Navy
time, and now he's doing the same for RV's (and other experimentals)).
It could also be that the difference between the G's to break Van's
latches and those to break Rob's would kill the pilot anyway... I just
know I'll feel better latching down Rob's (being ex-Navy my ownself).
Now, this conversation is timely for another reason as I am now fitting
these pesky mounts among other activities. Those of you with Becki
seats and who plan to use Pacific Aero fifth-point harnesses learn from
my mistake.
Becki will cut a slot in the fabric that makes up the stick boot if you
tell her you have a fifth strap. Unfortunately I didn't realize the
measurements when I ordered the seats... so I have a mismatch now which
will cause the fifth strap to pull the opening backwards and over time
may cause it to enlarge. We'll see. To do it over again I'd ask her
to cut the slot a couple of inches back from the boot cutout.
The slot as cut in my seats is 16 1/2" from the rear edge of the seat
cushion. Rob's directions makes the most of the seat ribs and space
available and places the mounting tube 4 3/4" forward of the bend in
the seat pan. Unfortunately this will be 3 1/4 inches behind the slot
cut in the seat cushion (with the seat-back in the rear-most hinge
point).
Perhaps folks flying with Becki seats and Pacific Harnesses can allay
my concerns... which are that the difference will prevent me from
pulling the fifth strap tight which would negate its preventing the lap
belt from riding up in the event of a mishap - which is its
only function.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward (and backward, when I get tired of bending hoses)
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "? ???" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Question |
----- Original Message -----
From: ? ???
Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2001 3:10 AM
Subject: RV-List: Panel Question
Who are the different vendors and who has the best prices on complete panel packages
for the RV's?
algrajek(at)msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT Antenna Location and Type |
Dean:
I took the advice of one of the guys at Vans and mounted both the ELT
AND the antenna on the wing end rib under the fiberglass wing tip. Here
the antenna can be mounted perpendicular to the end rib which serves as
a pretty good ground plane and the fiberglass keeps it out of the
breeze. It is about 6 inches longer than the width of the wing tip, but
that's OK, it is flexible and just bends over like a bent whip type
antenna when you put the fiberglass on. An SWR meter check showed it
was a good location
There's no way to mount the antenna inside the baggage compartment that
doesn't place it too close to various conductive elements (i.e., the
surrounding fuselage) which may reduce transmission efficiency
drastically. Ideally for this antenna you want a big flat ground plane
and no other conductors within about 2 feet. Also, installing the ELT
transmitter itself in the baggage compartment makes it possible to bang
it when handling baggage or in turbulence.
It's certainly possible that my wingtip may be demolished in a crash,
but only if it gets a direct hit, which statistically I think is
unlikely. I put it as far aft on the wing rib as could to minimize the
effect of leading edge impact. On the plus side, it's a superior place
to mount the antenna so I'll have good transmission range and no
aerodynamic drag. Virtually any place you put the ELT+antenna can get
destroyed in a crash but the baggage compartment is probably the most
survivable part of the airplane. It's just a poor place for the
antenna.
--
Tom Sargent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | New!! LOM M332A available |
Jim
how many horse is it? I take it your LOM -3 is still working well?
I've long considered building a LOM -4...
dw
Hi All,
A new LOM M332A with all paperwork and tool kit is available.
If you are interested, contact Rich Trickle at (805) 483-8868.
He says he will take a new, or low time, Lyc O-235 or O-290 in exchange.
Or a low to mid-time Lyc. O-320.
Or $8,000 cash outright.
Please contact Rich Trickle directly.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV LOM M332A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz(at)intel.com> |
Mine are mounted at the top rear bulkhead of the baggage compartment. I
prefer that to the RVs that I've been in with the plugs in front of the
pilots. Much less clutter.
dw RV-6 600hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | 6/6A tip-up cracked canopy wanted |
Pete,
be careful which one you get, as I recall Van's changed vendors a few years
ago and the shape/contour of the tip up changed slightly as well.
For example, my canopy, circa 93 would not be the same as the current one.
dw
RV-6 600hrs, engine and panel spread about the garage
>Wanted. Canopy for a 6 or 6A tip-up, preferably cracked. I want Todd
Silver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | Alignment of trailing edge on wings |
Are,
as one of those WITH alignment, I can give you my advice (BTW, many local
builders poo-pooed this advice, and came back to me later and commented that
they should have listened - sigh):
1 - Basically, DON'T install the wing tips until the wings are on the fuse.
2 - Install the wings and set the incidence.
3 - Install the flaps and ailerons and align them to the fuse and each
other, as best you can, taking into consideration the balance between
'perfect aerodynamic alignment' and 'cosmetic necessity'. I can tell you
from experience that having just a few degrees of 'down flap' will cost
significant airspeed, easily demonstrated by 'slightly' deploying electric
flaps at cruise speed.
4 - Once wing incidence, flap, and aileron alignment/location are set, THEN
install the wing tips, aligning the trailing edge. There is a surprizing
amount of flex and movement available in the location of the trailing edges
of the tips, allowing for good alignment. Just be sure they are where you
want them when you drill.
5 - Be very wary of listening to those who say "due to airfoil shape and
where that dictates alignment of the flaps/ailerons, there is only 'one'
location for them, using the airfoil template" (this is where the local
builders got stuck). IF we ALL built our control surfaces PERFECTLY
STRAIGHT, that would be true. However, there are many opportunities to get
twist in the wings and the surfaces (probably less true now with all the
pre-punching, but in 'the old days' you had to locate EVERYTHING yourself,
even the plumb-bob alignment holes in the spars).
One of my wings was perfectly straight, the other had 3/16" 'twist' tip to
tip. Although barely noticable, my ailerons also have a very slight twist,
caused by using a table that was NOT as flat as I thought. Had I used the
airfoil template to locate and install the tips off of the fuse, I would not
have been able to achieve alignment. But by aligning all of that post
incidence, I was able to fudge and average-out the imperfections and have a
'straight' appearance to it all. ie. If you have a tip to tip twist of
1/8" combined in flap and aileron, you could set the inboard end of the flap
1/16" 'up' and the outboard end of the aileron 1/16" 'down', averaging-out
the twist over the length of the wing, and maintaining trailing-edge
alignment. You then install the tip to match.
6 - Again, be very careful, as mis-alignments WILL cause drag. However, my
stock, old one piece wheel pant RV-6 tip-up is consistently fast when flying
with other RVs, so it can be done.
dw
RV-6 w/600hrs, engine and panel spread about the garage
>After seeing 100'eds of RV's I have noticed that many of them have the
aileron trailing edge lined up with the flap >trailing edge. What is more
rare to see is an aileron aligned with the wing tip. From looking at the
construction, >there is not really a lot we can do as opposed to the
elevators and rudder where we have good control by adjusting >rod-end's.
>Is there something I can do to be proactive in getting this lined up? I
hate to find out first when installing the >tip that I could have done
something simple that now is too late.
>For the few of you who does have a close-to-perfect line, did you modify
the tip? (most I see seem to have a tip
>that sticks out further aft than the control surfaces). Or is there
something else we can do?
>Are
>RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com"
| Subject: | transponder on ebay... |
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1621493827
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: VS alignment. |
RE: > message posted by: Im7shannon(at)aol.com
>> The doubler plate which attaches the VS forward spar to the HS forward
spar has the offset built into it in the -9 kit, probably the same for the 7
too. I think it was 5/16 offset. It works well, no need for rudder trim.
Kevin -9A flying <<
Kevin and others: The blue/yellow RV-9A factory plane has a 2 1/2" wedge on
the left side of the rudder and is barely 1/8" thick at the trailing edge
(doesn't protrude). You have to look hard to see it. I studied it
yesterday at Oshkosh in case I need the same.
Ernest Kells RV-9A - Fuselage, O-235 Wood Prop
Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
I was told that Microair would be at Oshkosh with their new flat pack radio
stackable transmitter and transponder.
Can anyone provide us with information and or opinions regarding Microair at
or not at Oshkosh?
If their new flat stack systems are on the market is anyone using this
equipment as yet?
Jim - in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Headsets Jacks |
RE: message posted by: "Wentz, Don"
>> Mine are mounted at the top rear bulkhead of the baggage compartment. I
prefer that to the RVs that I've been in with the plugs in front of the
pilots. Much less clutter - dw RV-6 600hrs <<
DON: I looked at a very pretty RV-6A at Oshkosh (red/polished alum). He
had had his jacks in the centre top of the seatback bulkhead. He says that
it was the worst place. Any activity in the baggage area can disrupt the
jacks - one of his plugs looked crooked. There was a snag when he showed me
how the chords hang into the baggage area. I think that the problem would
exist for either baggage bulkhead. I am still waffling but leaning towards
the rear armrest area.
Ernest Kells RV-9A - Fuselage - 50%, O-235 Wood Prop
Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
Hi All, how many of us are going to the Races? Are any Northwest RVs planning
the trip? Being a first timer I would appreciate any advice about where to
stay, can you land right at the races, or do you have to deplane elsewhere
and drive, where is the best brothel, does this brothel have a runway, if so
do they allow nose wheel RVs, etc., etc.
Thanks Kevin -9A in WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: New!! LOM M332A available |
In a message dated 07/28/2001 9:44:25 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
don.wentz(at)intel.com writes:
>
> Jim
> how many horse is it? I take it your LOM -3 is still working well?
>
> I've long considered building a LOM -4...
> dw
>
Hi Don,
I'm finishing the installation of the 12 volt electrical system on the LOM
M332A engine in my RV3. Somehow it included a new instrument panel for some
new instruments, etc. (Matt Dralle's fuel flow gage had to be installed.)
I'm also mounting the first production VS COM antenna fairing on my RV3.
The LOM M332A engine produces 140 hp for takeoff and climb (2700 RPM and 35
in hg) with the supercharger engaged. And 115 hp for max continuous power
(2550 RPM and 29 in hg) with the supercharger disengaged.
I use a mixture control cable to engage and disengage the supercharger.
I'm getting the same max cruise performance on 115 hp from the LOM as I got
with the 130 hp Lyc O-290 engine. 196 mph TIAS at 7,500' density altitude.
Slightly higher than Van's prototype (Lyc. O-290) of 185 mph true airspeed at
7,500'.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV LOM M322A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Headsets Jacks |
RVers who use the Lightspeed ANR headsets and similar units with
cord-mounted battery packs and controls should think twice before
abandoning the old fashioned panel jack location.
I have noted with interest the remarks concerning the "clutter" of the
headset cords that resulted from having the cords plugged into panel
jacks. I just haven't had a problem managing cords in my RV-6 with the
jacks mounted on the panel next to the fuse sidewalls:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/panel4.html
If the jacks were mounted behind the seating position, I think there
would be difficulty in reaching the control/battery box on the
Lightspeeds. With the panel jacks in my plane, the cords and control
boxes fall down into the recess between the occupants and the fuse
sidewall leaving them completely out of sight yet readily accessible
when necessary. The plugs are protected from bumping by the cockpit
railing.
I spent quite a bit of time searching for a better location for the
jacks when planning the interior, but the conventional location has
worked very well in my RV-6.
By the way, the cord on my oldest Lightspeed 15K went bad, and the
headband was showing some rash, so the headset went back to Oregon for
repair. It was returned a week later with a new cord, battery box,
headband, ear seals, mic muff, batteries...............and no bill!
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 298.6 hrs, just back from OSH, and enjoyed meeting a
bunch of you guys!)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
========================
Ernest Kells wrote:
>
>
> RE: message posted by: "Wentz, Don"
> >> Mine are mounted at the top rear bulkhead of the baggage compartment. I
> prefer that to the RVs that I've been in with the plugs in front of the
> pilots. Much less clutter - dw RV-6 600hrs <<
> DON: I looked at a very pretty RV-6A at Oshkosh (red/polished alum). He
> had had his jacks in the centre top of the seatback bulkhead. He says that
> it was the worst place. Any activity in the baggage area can disrupt the
> jacks - one of his plugs looked crooked. There was a snag when he showed me
> how the chords hang into the baggage area. I think that the problem would
> exist for either baggage bulkhead. I am still waffling but leaning towards
> the rear armrest area.
> Ernest Kells RV-9A - Fuselage - 50%, O-235 Wood Prop
> Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Headsets Jacks |
Anyone out there know where to find, or how much, an adapter for military to
civilian headsets? I got a nice helmet from my wife & suns and I don't want
to try to cut/splice in the civilian plugs.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FS: RV-4 Roll Bar |
I have an extra RV-4 roll bar for sale. Van's sells for $130, I am asking
$50 plus shipping. Please e-mail me if interested. Thanks
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Good Avionics Book |
Can anyone recommend a good Avionics book for installation and wiring of
radios, transponder, antenna's, gages, etc? I know there are a lot of books
out there, but I'm sure some are better and more encompassing than others.
Thanks
-Mike
RV-4 Fuse almost done....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Crawford <toys(at)ufl.edu> |
| Subject: | Airfoil Template |
I am finishing a wing kit that I bought second hand. I do not have the
airfoil template that comes with the kit. Now that it's time to mount
the flaps and ailerons, I'm in a bit of a jam. Any suggestions?
--
Tom Crawford
Gainesville, FL
N262TC Flying
N???TC Wings
Mailto:toys(at)ufl.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Headsets Jacks |
Chuck--
Try: http://www.fightsuits.com/helm_cords.html
Boyd.
Chuck Rabaut wrote:
>
>
> Anyone out there know where to find, or how much, an adapter for military to
> civilian headsets? I got a nice helmet from my wife & suns and I don't want
> to try to cut/splice in the civilian plugs.
>
> Chuck
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Blue Mountain Avionics |
From: Ron Schreck <RonSchreck(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: RV-List: Blue Mountain Avionics
>I understand that the guys from Blue Mountain were/are at Oshkosh to
>demonstrate their glass cockpit.
Let me know what you all think.
>Ron Schreck
>RV-8QB
Blue Mountain was indeed represented at Osh. My first visit with them left
me with a couple of questions I didn't know enough to ask. The second visit
gave me a chance to sit in the cockpit of the ass ender next to the tent.
The display is excellent and ambient light does not seem to be a problem.
The answer to the new question was that the $8800 price includes a vacuum
gyro as a reference source for the attitude display. The solid state device
available as an option costs an additional $750.
I subsequently was advised that the map function is based on scanned maps
and there is not the ability to manipulate them. If that is true, and one
cannot change scales, orientation etcetera, than the usefulness of the map
is diminished. The system might still be a good buy for the gyro and system
functions. If I am wrong about this map business, would someone please
advise the list with a better answer?
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Hughes" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Tip up canopy handle |
Does anyone know of anyway to make the RV-6 tip up canopy handle and plastic
mounting block look better? I seem to remember that Jim Baker had his
chrome plated. Also, the block looks a little rough, and when I attempt to
sand the edges, it removes the burrs, but the block looks like it has been
sanded. I'm thinking that since it sits at the top of the canopy, it will
be pretty visible.
Thanks.
Keith Hughes
RV-6, Parker, CO
Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
"rocket-list(at)matronics.com"
Listers--
Does any one have any follow-up on the RV-7A "Predator" that was listed
in Trade-A-Plane a couple months back? IO-540/390 hp/4800 fpm climb.
According to Van's, the parts weren't available at the time to build the
airplane. Just curious.
Boyd.
RV-Super 6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allen Checca" <achecca(at)concentric.net> |
I just got back from 4 days at Oshkosh. Saw plenty of RVs. Met a dealer
at Airventure selling Subaru engine conversions with a electrically
adjustable prop. Firewall forward complete cost around 18,000. Anyone have
July 22, 2001 - July 28, 2001
RV-Archive.digest.vol-lf